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DESIGNED AND
ISSUED FROM
PRESS OF
BOLTE and
BRADEN CO.
SAN FRANCISCO

 
 

 
 

EL CAPITAN, the majestic rock, 3,300 ft. in height, which stands at the entrance
to Yosemite Valley on the Coulterville road for automobiles passing through MODESTO
California
1S A

Health
Resort

By
EF. C. 8S. SANDERS, M. D.

Author of
‘“Tropical Diseases of the Skin and the Kidneys’’

{ .
‘Mens sana in corpore sano’’

Published by
BOLTE & BRADEN CO."
San Francisco, California
CHAPTER

1
IIL.
III.

Iv.
V.
V1.
Vil.
Vii.
IX.
Xx.
XI

XII.

XIII.

XIV.

XV.

Table of Contents

 

The General Topography of the State. ........
The Rivers, Lakesand Valleys... ........... ..
The Climate and Its Effects on Health and Occu-

BARUCH: . . oc. ah tia
Bhe Forests... .. ...... 0... .. .. ....
Agriculture and Horticulture. ..... ..........
Mines and Minerals. . 2... ............. 5
The Mission Fathers and the Missions. . ........
The Story of the Orange. .....c.... ..» aa
Inthe Vineyards. . ........ a ea aan
The Universities and Educational Advantages. . . .

The Observatories—Mount Hamilton, Mount Lowe
and Chabot ..... ...

A Trip Through California with a Brief Descrip-

tion of the Principal Places of Interest. ......

The Chemistry of Mineral Waters and Their
Therapeutic Value... .... iB... 2a.

The Mineral Springs. Lake County District.
Adams, Aetna, Agua Caliente, Alhambra,
Allen, Anderson’... ....... .i.....

San Bernardino Valley and Arrowhead. . .....

Copyright 1916, by F. C. S. Sanders

PAGE

13
23

37
51
63
75
79
89
101
117

131

141

197

 
CHAPTER
XVI
XVIL
XVIII

XIX.
XX.
XXL
XXL.

XXIIL

XXIV.

Table of Contents

 

PAGE
The Mountains of Mystery and Their Legends... 235
Byron, Bimini, Bonanza, Bartlett, Boyes. ...... 247
Cal. Hot Springs, Calistoga, Campbell, Cook, Deer

Park, Fetters . . .. nove evil e as 235
Gilroy, Geysers, Harbin, Highland, Howard. ... 259
#Klamath, Murrieta, Paraiso, Napa Soda, Palm. 265
Paso Robles Hot Springs. ....... J. vi. so: os 273
Shasta Springs, Summit Soda, Seigler, Skaggs,

San Luis Obispo, Tuscan. .............. 281
Witter, Wilbur, Wheeler, Viehy.......... ... 285
Table of Springs. ........ noo... 290-291

293

Analyses. ........ sc... 0c adn

*For convenient reference the description of the springs has been
placed alphabetically, without regard to their value, or their topo-

graphical situation.

By this arrangement Murrieta Springs in

Riverside County, come next to Klamath Springs in Siskiyou County,
whereas in reality they are nearly seven hundred miles apart.
only serves to emphasize the wonderful resources of California, as
scarcely an intervening county fails to furnish its quota of either
mineral springs or health resorts.

“34473

This
 

RESIDENCE OF THE LATE JOHN MUIR,
NATURALIST, GEOLOGIST, AUTHOR,
AND LOVER OF ALL GOD'S CREATURES
INTRODUCTION

Preface

It was by a mere chance that I came to California!

When in Hong Kong, China, my term of service on board ship
as surgeon expired, and while looking at an atlas one morning at the
club, and thinking over what route I should take home to London, a
friend came to me and asked if I contemplated leaving them and
taking another voyage, as he knew a high government official who
had to go home on sick-leave, but was too ill to bear the heat of
the Red Sea and Suez Canal at that time of year—it was then the
end of June—and had decided to take the longer route via Japan
and America, and was looking for a doctor to go with him. That
settled the question, and in a few days I found myself on board a
Pacific Ocean steamer with three patients in charge—all homeward

bound via San Francisco.

Things went well, until three days before our arrival at Hono-
lulu, when one of my patients showed signs of liver abscess forma-
tion, and as his condition became critical, I was obliged to land at
the Hawaiian Islands in order to perform an immediate operation.
This being successful, we were in about three weeks able to resume
our journey, eventually reaching San Francisco towards the end of
August. It was our original intention to make only a stay of two
days in this city and then go on to New York, but this had to be
abandoned, for that night the patient I had operated upon in Hono-

lulu had a severe relapse, and nearly died.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

When still desperately ill, I took him to a mineral spring resort
in California in the hope that there he might be able to gain suf-
ficient strength to resume his journey home. The weather being
delightfully fine, we were in a short time able to take drives to the
various places of interest in the neighborhood. It is not my purport
in this introductory chapter to describe these springs, or to go into
detail with regard to their curative properties, as this I have done in
the body of the book; but the fact of going there, almost by acci-
dent, caused me to write this book, as the judicious drinking of the
water and the taking of the baths acted on my patient as a charm,
and in six weeks he returned to England, taking with him, as he
expressed it, ‘a new lease of life from the garden spot of the United
States.”” The possibilities of these springs greatly impressed me,
and upon making enquiries I heard all sorts of stories about Cali-
fornia’s hot and cold mineral springs, and so interested did I become
that I decided to stay in the State awhile, and make a tour of it,
and find out all about these springs, using the railroad when avail-

able—walking and bicycling when not.

I started at the Klamath Springs upon the northern border of the

State, and eventually reached San Diego at the extreme south.

During this trip I visited scores of different springs, taking
away from each samples of their waters for analysis. Many of
these have decided valuable curative properties, which I have de-
scribed under their various heads in the chapters on “THE MIN-
ERAL SPRINGS.” 1 also took this opportunity of going to
other health resorts and places of interest, and have chronicled my
impressions of them in this book. I have gone into the question

of climate, soil, altitude, products, etc., in so far as these subjects

 

 

 
 

INTRODUCTION

apply to those coming to California in search of health, occupation
and recreation. I need hardly add that this book was written on
my own initiative, and the views expressed therein are the outcome
of my own personal observation and experience, and I shall consider
that my time and energies have been well spent in recording them if
it results in restoring to health and happiness any of those who can
avail themselves of the wonderful advantages offered by the life-

giving features of this great State.

I was greatly aided in my work by my friend, the late John
Muir. It was amid the picturesque surroundings of his home at
Martinez, where I spent many inspiring hours, that I first conceived
the idea of putting on record my impressions of California—Tlitera
scripla manet. I have also gratefully to acknowledge the assistance
given me by Professor H. C. Biddle, Mr. Wells Drury, Mrs.
W. C. Morrow, Major Ben. C. Truman, Mr. Chas. S. Fee,

Mr. J. J. Byrne, and Mr. H. R. Braden.
F.C.8 8S.

1518 Le Roy Avenue, Berkeley
December, 1915

Descriptions relating to the attractions and resources of this State,
appearing in Chapter XII of this book, are reprinted from the work
entitled “California Tourist Guide and Hand Book™, by permission
of the authors, Wells Drury and Aubrey Drury, and Western Guide
Book Company, owners of the copyright.

The details regarding many of the forest trees and lakelets were
given me by Mr. Muir himself. Some of these appeared in his classic,
“The Mountains of California’, published by the Century Company
of New York. Professor William Frederic Bade of Berkeley, John
Muir's Literary Executor, is now engaged in editing the biography
and writings of the famous naturalist.
Rs

VERNAL FALLS, YOSEMITE VALLEY
“WALLED IN BY SERRATE MOUNTAINS"

 
EARLY DAYS IN CALIFORNIA

California as a Health Resort

“Hard by the blue Pacific
An Empire stands alone,
Walled in by Serrate mountains,
While Plenty sits the throne;
Where the climate is an Eden,
Where the Winter is a Spring,
Where the Summer is eternal
And the birds for ever sing.”

Brooks.

CHAPTER 1

TOPOGRAPHY

WN the year 1510 there was published in Spain a
book by Ordonez de Montalvo entitled “Las Sergas
=) de Esplandian,” in which the name California was

I: 3 in used; it is derived from the Mexican Indian

a y-formo, which means Lime-kilns.

   

The first European who is known to have
visited what is now California, was Juan Cabrillo, who in 1542
landed somewhere in the neighborhood of San Diego.

Early in the Eighteenth Century the Spanish attempted to
civilize the country by the establishment of missions along the coast,
and in 1769 the first mission in California proper was erected in
San Diego by the Franciscans. By 1823, when the last most
northerly station had been planted at Sonoma, these religious houses
had grown to twenty-one in number, and acquired great wealth in
olive, orange, and grape plantations.

The Indians were early converts to Christianity, and induced to
lead a settled life; they were taught farming and other civilized
pursuits and became in time a peaceful and industrious people.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

The Spanish government, which intended eventually to turn the
mission estates into administrative districts, never acknowledged the
title of the Priests to the land, and in 1777 began the founding of
Pueblos or towns. Upper California was divided into 4 provinces,
namely—San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco.

After the Mexican revolution of 1821, the Missions began to
decline. The Indians were partly emancipated in 1826, and the
process of secularization was completed by 1845. In 1826 the
first American immigrant wagon-train entered California. In 1840
Monterey was made the capital town, and a year later the Russians,

who had maintained a trading post north of Bodega Bay since
1812, abandoned it.

Under the Mexican Republic California enjoyed virtual auton-
omy, and after 1840 its independence was seen to be inevitable.

A silent conflict arose between those who favored ultimate
annexation to the United States, and the large class of property-
owners who were inclined to favor the establishment of a British
Protectorate.

On June 14th, 1846, a small party of Americans, aided by
John C. Fremont (who was then in California at the head of an
exploring expedition), seized the town of Sonoma, raised the Bear
flag, and on the 4th of July proclaimed the independence of
California! :

On August the 15th, 1846, California was declared a terri-
tory of the United States, and on September the 9th, 1850, entered
the Union.

Since the Civil War, California has experienced a magnificent
economic development. Both from the Eastern States and from
across the Pacific the tide of immigration flowed in steadily. In
1850 the population of the state was 92,600; in 1860, 379,900;
in 1870, 560,200; in 1880, 864,700; in 1890, 1,208,100; in
1900, 1,485,053; in 1910 it was 2,377,549 with an average of

15.3 per square mile. The per cent of increase for the decade

 

 

 
 

fn

TOPOGRAPHY OF CALIFORNIA

1890 to 1900 (22.9) was greater than that for the whole country.

California ranks second in area of the United States of
America, twelfth in population, and eighteenth in order of admission.

The size of this State can, perhaps, be better realized by com-
parisons with other well known areas than by the actual square

mileage, which is 156,092 for its land, and 2,205 for its water.

It is larger than the States of New York, New Jersey, Massa-
chusetts, Rhode Island, Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Con-
necticut and Ohio put together, and exceeds by 3,149 square miles
the combined areas of England and Wales, Scotland, Ireland and
Portugal; or it is greater in area by 5,499 square miles than that
of Italy, the Netherlands, Belgium, and Denmark rolled into one.

The State of California is bounded on the north by Oregon, on
the east by Nevada and a small part of Arizona, on the south by
Lower California (Mexico), and on the west by the Pacific Ocean.
It stretches along the coast from latitude 32° 40’ to latitude 42°,
a distance measured along the center of the State, of 750 miles;
its breadth averages about 200 miles. California has the highest
and the lowest land of the United States; the greatest variety of
temperature and rainfall, and the greatest variety of the products
of the soil.

Although it has been said that go where you may in California,
“mountains are ever in sight,” yet so simple and massive is the
topography of the State in general view, that the main central
porsion displays only one valley, and two chains of mountains—the
Coast Range on the west side, and the Sierra Nevada on the east.

These two somewhat parallel ranges come together in curves on
the north and south, and about two-thirds down the State are again
connected by a small range that reaches across it—the Kern River
Mountains. The land that lies between these mountains is what is
called the great central valley.

This beautiful tract of land is more than 400 miles in length,
and from 35 to 55 miles in width, and may be said to extend from
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

where the Kern River Mountains connect the Sierra Nevada with
the Coast Range at Tehachapi on the south, to where Mt. Shasta
closes it in on the far north.

Before California became a State, this great central plain has
been described by an eye witness, as being in the spring time, one
continuous bed of honey-bloom, so marvelously rich, that, in walking,
your foot would press a hundred flowers at every step; Mints,
Gilias, and innumerable compositee were so crowded together that,
had 90 per cent of them been taken away, the plain would still
have seemed, to any but Californians, extravagantly flowery.

The great valley of California is today, in its northern part,
covered with a scattering growth of oaks, while the central and
southern part are devoid of timber, and more or less under
cultivation.

The marshes in the lower courses of the Sacramento River were,
until recently, covered with tule reeds, but are now being reclaimed.

For purposes of description this valley may be said to be divided
into three parts. The first is the basin of the Sacramento River,
north of San Francisco Bay into which the river empties. The
second is that district south of where this river turns into the sea,
and is occupied by another large river, the San Joaquin, which
gathers the waters from all the southern mountains, through its own
sources in the heights in Fresno County, so that the northern end of
this valley is drained by the Sacramento River flowing southward,
and its middle portion by the San Joaquin River flowing northward,
the meeting of these two rivers taking place in the 1600 square
miles of alluvial delta, opposite the gap in the Coast Range at
San Francisco, and forming by their expansion at this point, the
San Pablo and Suisun Bays. The third part of the great central
valley lies south of the head of the San Joaquin valley, and is a
somewhat circular, dry, and fairly level plain about 100 miles long
by 80 broad, in the western part of which is a low alkaline desert
surrounding Tulare Lake. Into this basin flows Kings River, and

 

i

SRE

 

 

a
 

 

 

 

i rt

THE COAST RANGE

toward it flow many other beautiful mountain streams which mostly
disappear in the sand. In the southern part of this valley-plain the
Kern River flows south-westward through a region some five hundred
feet above the sea level, eventually emptying itself into Buena

Vista Lake.

On the seaward side of the Sierra Madre Range is an extensive
region narrowing northward to Santa Barbara, and comprising the
most popular and useful part of Southern California, it is known
as the districts of San Diego, Los Angeles, Riverside, Ventura, and
Santa Barbara.

Similar coast districts are repeated northward in Monterey and
Santa Clara Counties, and north of San Francisco Bay in Marin,
Sonoma, and Mendocino Counties—west of the Coast Range.

The northern part of the coast section is drained by the Klamath
and Eel Rivers. To the east of the San Bernardino Range is a
depressed and arid region containing Death Valley and the Mojave
and Colorado deserts.

North of latitude 40° the Coast Range and Sierra systems
unite, forming a country extremely rough.

The coast line itself south of Santa Barbara is low and
sandy, with several large islands in the offing. North of Santa
Barbara it is high and rocky, bold cliffs facing the sea, almost
unbroken by harbors other than that of the Bay of San Francisco,
entered through a rift in the Coast called the Golden Gate.

The great central valley is thus closed to the north and south,
and 1s surrounded by a mountain wall, broken down, in but one
single place, through which passes the entire drainage of the interior,
whose total area is about 18,000 square miles.

The Coast Range: —Of the two extensive chains of mountains
traversing the State of California, the longer is that known as the
Coast Range, being a part of the uplift which defines the continental
west coast, from the extremity of Lower California through Oregon
to the Olympic Range in the State of Washington.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

It is made up of numerous indistinct chains, having localized
individual names, broken down into innumerable ridges and spurs,
and small valleys, and drained by short streams of rapid fall.

The altitudes of the Coast Range vary from about 2,000 to
8,000 feet; in the neighborhood of San Francisco Bay the
"culminating peaks are about 4,000 feet in height.

Within the limits of California, starting at the South, the Coast
Range is made up of the San Jacinto, Santa Ana, San Bernardino
and San Gabriel Ranges. Interior to these is a second lesser range
called the Sierra Madre Range, which becomes more prominent
Northward, and is broken by the Bay of San Francisco and the
outlet valley of the Sacramento River and extends thence to the
borders of the State of Oregon, where the watershed bends East-
ward and forms the lofty Shasta Range, the highest point of which
is a volcanic mass in Siskiyou County of 14,380 feet and known as
Mount Shasta; the other notable altitudes in this system are
San Bernardino, 10,630 feet; San Jacinto Peak, 10,805 feet;
Tehachapi Mountain, 9,214; Thunder Mountain, 9,121 feet;
Pinos Mountain, 9,214 feet; San Gabriel Peak, 6,152 feet;
Eddy Mountain, 9,151 feet; Mount Scott, 7,850 feet, and Mount
Diablo, 3,849 feet.

THE SIERRA NEVADA RANGE

The Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Range, is about 500 miles long,
70 miles wide, and from 7,000 to nearly 15,000 feet high. In
general views no mark of man is visible on it, nor anything to
suggest the richness of the life it cherishes, or the depth and grandeur
of its sculpture. None of its magnificently crowned ridges rise
much above the general level to publish its wealth: no great valley
or lake, or river, or group of well marked features of any
kind stand out in distinct pictures. Even the summit-peaks, so
clear and high in the sky, seem comparatively smooth and feature-
less, nevertheless, glaciers are still at work in the shadows of the
peaks, and thousands of lakes and meadows shine and bloom
beneath them, while the whole range is furrowed with canons to a

 

 
 

 

THE SIERRA NEVADA RANGE

depth of from 2,000 to 5,000 feet in which once flowed majestic

glaciers, and in which now flow and sing a band of beautiful rivers.

Though of such stupendous depth, these famous canons are not
raw, gloomy, jagged-walled gorges, savage and inaccessible, but
with rough passages here and there, they still make delightful path-
ways for the mountaineer, conducting one from the fertile lowlands
to the highest icy fountains, graded and sculptured by the ancient
glaciers, and presenting throughout all their courses a rich variety of
novel and attractive scenery—the most attractive that have yet been
discovered in the mountain ranges of the world.

In many places, especially in the middle region of the Western
flank of the range, the main cafions widen into spacious valleys,
diversified like artificial landscape-gardens, with charming groves
and meadows, and thickets of blooming bushes, while the lofty,
retiring walls are fringed with ferns, oaks, and evergreens which
find anchorage on a thousand narrow steps and benches, the
whole enlivened with rejoicing streams that come dancing and
foaming over the sunny brows of the cliffs to join the shining river
that flows in tranquil beauty down the middle of each one of them.
The walls of these part-valleys of the Yosemite type are made up
of rocks, mountains in size, partly separated from each other by
narrow gorges and side-cafions; they are so sheer in front, and so
completely built together on a level floor, that the parks they enclose
look like immense halls or temples lighted from above. In the middle
region of the deepest canons are the grandest forest-trees: the
Sequoia, King of Conifers; the noble sugar and yellow pines; the
Douglas Spruce, etc., each a giant of its kind, assembled together
in one and the same forest, surpassing all other coniferous forests in
the world, both in the number of its species, and in the size and
beauty of its trees. Beneath these giants of the forest bloom bushes
of fragrant ceanothus and manzanita, and lily gardens, meadows, and
damp, ferny glens in endless variety, compelling the admiration of
all observers. These noble trees extend in a continuous belt from
end to end of the range, being only interrupted by sheer-walled
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

canons at intervals of about fifteen to twenty miles. Above this
region of giants, the trees grow smaller, until the utmost limit of
timber-line is reached on the stormy mountain-slopes, at a height of
from ten to twelve thousand feet above the sea.

Below the main-forest belt the trees diminish in size owing to
the frosts and burning droughts. The rose-purple zone along the
base of the range, comprehends nearly all the famous gold region of
California. It was here that miners from every country under the
sun assembled in a wild rush to seek their fortunes, and on the
banks of every river, ravine and gully, they have left their marks.
The pick and shovel, once wielded with such enthusiasm, has in
this region been laid away, and only quartz-mining is now carried
on to any considerable extent.

This mining zone in general is made up of low, waving foot-
hills, roughened here and there with brush and trees and protruding
masses of slate, coloured gray and red with lichens. In the spring,
the whole of this foothill belt is a paradise of flowers, but by the
end of May the soil and plants seem to have been baked in an oven,
and the ground is full of cracks. The north half of the range is
mostly covered with floods of lava, and dotted with volcanoes and
craters, some of them recent and perfect in form, others in various
stages of decay. The South half is composed of granite nearly
from base to summit, while a considerable number of peaks, in the
middle of the range, are capped with metamorphic slates, among
which are Mounts Dana and Gibbs to the East of the Yosemite
Valley; Mount Whitney (the culminating point of the range near
its Southern extremity), is stated to be the highest mountain on the
North American Continent, reaching an altitude of 14,700 feet.
From the summit of Mount Whitney, says-John Muir, only granite
1s seen, in the form of innumerable peaks and spires but little lower
than Whitney rising in groups like forest-trees, separated by canons
of tremendous depth. On Shasta, nearly every feature in the vast
view speaks of the old volcanic fires. On the North-west side of
Mount Shasta there is a subordinate cone about 3,000 feet below
the summit, which has been active subsequent to the breaking up of

 

 
THE SIERRA NEVADA

the main ice-cap that once covered this mountain. Along the
Western base of the range a series of sedimentary rocks containing
the early history of the Sierra are now being studied, and John Muir
in his classic work on the Mountains of California says that only
a very short geological time ago, just before the coming on of that
winter of winters called the glacial period, a vast deluge of molten
rocks poured from many a chasm and crater on the flanks and
summit of the range, filling lake basins and river channels, and
obliterating nearly every existing feature on the Northern portion.
At length these destroying floods ceased to flow, but while the great
volcanic cones still burned and smoked, the whole Sierra passed
under the domain of ice and snow; their glaciers began to crawl,
and then with infinite deliberation, the work went on of sculpturing
the range. These mighty agents of erosion crushed and ground the
flinty lavas beneath their crystal folds, wasting and building, until
in the fullness of time the Sierra was fashioned as we see it today—
glaciers and snow-crushed pines at the top of the range, wheat-fields
and orange-groves at the foot of it!

A recent note issued by the United States Geological Survey
says: “Things are wonderful principally by comparison. There are
sixty or more lofty mountains in California rising more than 13,000
feet above sea level which are not considered sufficiently noteworthy
among all the surrounding wealth of mountain scenery to have even
received names. Any one of these mountain peaks, if situated in
the Eastern part of the United States, would of course be visited by
millions of people; but California has seventy additional mountain
peaks more than 13,000 feet high which have been named, as well
as a dozen rising above 14,000 feet.”
      
  
 

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FLOWING INTO THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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THE WATER-WAYS OF CALIFORNIA

. “Tongues in trees, books in running brooks,
Sermons in stones, and good in everything.”

As You Like It.

CHAPTER II

THE RIVERS, LAKES, AND VALLEYS

HE aridity of the climate of California is not so
extreme as is generally supposed, nor is it without its
advantages. In most parts the rainfall of the spring
months is sufficient for the development of the early-
maturing crops, while the numerous streams supply a
source of irrigation for those that mature later.

 

In nearly every county some farming is done without the aid
of irrigation.

The Sacramento and San Joaquin are the most important rivers
in California. The former has its head springs in Mt. Shasta;
its connecting spurs are in the North part of the State, while the
latter, or San Joaquin, rises in the Tulare Lakes in the South; they
flow toward each other, the Sacramento south, and the San Joaquin
north, draining the great valley to which they jointly give name, until
they finally unite near Latitude 38°, turn abruptly West and flow
through Suisun Bay into the Bay of San Francisco. Nearly all the
tributaries of these rivers are small, and flow chiefly from the Sierra
Nevada, the principal being the Feather with three considerable
forks, the Yuba and the American flowing into the Sacramento,
while the Calaveras, Stanislaus, Tuolumne and Merced empty them-
selves into the San Joaquin.

The Sacramento River is about 370 miles long; it is navi-
gable for large steamboats at all seasons to Sacramento, 90 miles
from its mouth, or 120 miles from San Francisco, and for smaller
craft it is navigable to Red Bluff, about 150 miles above Sacra-
mento. The San Joaquin, about 350 miles long, is navigable for
ordinary steamers to Stockton, and for small craft during the rainy
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

season to the mouth of the Tulare Slough—about 150 miles. Kern
River, between Latitudes 35° and 36°, forms the South boundary
of what used to be the mining region.

The Klamath River flows from Oregon through the Northwest
corner of the State, with a considerable affluent from the South
. called the Trinity River, and empties into the Pacific Ocean. The
Salinas, or Buena Ventura, flowing North into the Bay of Monterey,
drains the valley between the Coast Range and a minor one, called
the Morena.

The Rio Pajaro, having its outlet near that of the Salinas, and
the Eel and Russian Rivers on the North are considerable streams.
The Colorado, forming in part the S. E. boundary of the State, is
an important river, flowing South into the Gulf of California and
navigable to Callville, 612 miles above its mouth. There are
numerous streams of less importance on the South Coast, most of
which are lost in the sands before reaching the Ocean. Water is
ample from many such sources, while a considerable supply comes
from artesian and other wells. Irrigation systems are an investment
for the sake of the revenue from the sale of water, or they are
provided for by forming districts and issuing bonds. The charge
per acre for the necessary water is but a slight tax where water 1s
available in streams or wells, but below the level of the land, pumps
are used, being driven by gasoline engines, electricity or wind-mills.
This method of irrigation is independent, inexpensive, and is widely
used.

Another peculiar and very general feature of the drainage system
of the State is the presence of numerous so-called river ‘‘sinks”
where the waters disappear, either directly by evaporation, or (as
in Death Valley) after flowing for a time beneath the surface.
These ‘Sinks’ are not the true Sinks of limestone regions.

Death Valley contains the “Sink” of the Amargosa River, and
evidently was once an extensive lake, although now only a mud-flat
in ordinary winters, and a dry, alkaline desert-plain in summer.
That part of California which lies to the South and East of the
Southern inosculation of the Coast Range and the Sierra comprises
an area of fully 50,000 square miles, and belongs to the Basin
Range region. The Mojave Desert—embracing Kern, Los Angeles
and San Bernardino, as also a large part of the San Diego, Imperial

 

 

RRR

 

 
THE SALTON SEA

and Riverside Counties—belongs to the Great Basin, while a narrow
strip along the Colorado River is in the “Open Basin Region.”
They have no drainage to the sea, save fitfully for slight areas
through the Colorado River.

The Mojave Desert is about 2000 feet above the sea in gen-
eral altitude.

The Southern part of the Great Basin Region is vaguely desig-
nated as the Colorado Desert.

In San Diego, Imperial and Riverside Counties a number of
creeks, or so-called rivers, with beds that are normally dry, flow
centrally toward the desert of Salton Sink or Sea; this is the lowest
part of a large area that is depressed below the level of the sea—
being 263 feet at Salton itself. In 1900 the Colorado River was
tapped South of the Mexican boundary for water wherewith to irri-
gate land in the Imperial Valley along the Southern Pacific Rail-
way adjoining Salton Sea. The river enlarged the canal, and finding
a steeper gradient than that to its mouth, was diverted into the
Colorado desert, flooding the Salton Sea which in February, 1906,
became a lake of sixty miles in length, and when the break in this
river was closed for the second time in February, 1907, a lake of
more than 400 square miles in area was left. In July, 1907, a
permanent sixty-foot masonry dam was completed and so far has
proved a success.

The winter rainfall and mountain snowfall are still important.
The hidden fountains are filled for summer needs, and beyond this is
felt no concern about the weather. Dependent on the clouds, the
farmer elsewhere must take the rain when it comes, not when it is
most wanted, or when it will be of the most benefit to his crops. It
may come at the most inopportune time, or it may not come when
drought means a great loss. Probably more time is lost in a
country having summer rains, in postponing necessary work because
of rain and waiting for the ground to become tillable, than it takes
in an irrigated country to apply water, and the injury to products by
unseasonable rains will nearly, if not quite, equal the cost of pur-
chased water.

All the upper branches of the rivers are fairly laden with lakes,
they lie embosomed in the deep woods, down in the bottoms of
cafions, high on bald tablelands and around the feet of icy peaks.
 

i

LAKE TAHOE, SET IN THE CROWN OF THE SIERRAS
ad

THE TAHOE REGION

Some conception of their lavish abundance may be realized from the
fact that, from the summit of Red Mountain, some thirty miles to
the East of Yosemite Valley, no fewer than forty-two lakes are
displayed within a radius of ten miles. The whole number in the
Sierra can hardly be less than fifteen hundred, not counting the
smaller pools. Perhaps two-thirds, or more, lie on the Western flank
of the range, and all are restricted to the Alpine and Subalpine
regions. At the close of the last glacial period, the middle and foot-
hill regions also abounded in lakes, all of which have long since
vanished as completely as the magnificent ancient glaciers that brought
them into existence.

Though the Eastern flank of the Sierra range is excessively steep,
lakes are to be found pretty regularly distributed throughout even
the most precipitous portions. They are mostly found in the upper
branches of the cafions, and in the glacial amphitheatres around the
peaks. Even in the lower regions, where most of them have been
obliterated by the detritus of flood and avalanche, there still remain
long narrow specimens upon the steep sides of dividing ridges.

In the upper canons, they are seen in pretty regular succession,
white and gray with foam and spray, their perfect mirror stillness
making impressive contrasts to the blare and glare of the connecting
cataracts. In Lake Hollow, on the North side of the Hoffman
Spur, immediately above the great Tuolumne Cafion, there are ten
lakelets lying near together in one general hollow—Iike eggs in a
nest—seen from above, in a general view, feathered with Hemlock
Spruce, and fringed with Sedge, they form a singularly beautiful
and interesting lake-cluster. Lake Tahoe, 23 miles long by about
13 miles wide, and from 500 to over 1600 feet in depth, is the
largest of all the Sierra lakes. A noted writer and traveler once
said in describing the famous lakes of Scotland and Ireland—"“We
visited Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond, to which Scott has given a
permanent place in literature; we also visited the Lakes of Killarney
of which Moore sang. They are beautiful enough to move a poet’s
heart and to inspire a poet’s pen, although, to be truthful, I must
assert that Lake Tahoe, which shines like a jewel in the crown of
the Sierras on the boundary line between California and Nevada,
need not fear comparison with any of the lakes of Scotland or

Ireland.”
LAKES IN THE SIERRA RANGE

Many Californians spend their summers here. The Lake lies
at an altitude of 6240 feet above sea-level. Its forested shores
go curving in and out around many an emerald bay and pine-
crowned promontory, and its waters are everywhere as pure as any
to be found among the highest mountains.

Donner Lake, made memorable by the terrible fate of the
Donner party, is about three miles long, and lies about ten miles to
the North of Tahoe at the head of one of the tributaries of the
Truckee River. A few miles further North lies Lake Independence,
which is about the same size as Donner Lake. By far the greater
number of lakes lie much higher and are quite small, few of them
exceeding a mile in length, most of them less than half a mile.
Along the lower edge of the lake-belt, the smallest have disappeared
by the filling in of their basins, leaving only those of considerable
size; but all along the upper freshly glaciated margin of the lake-
bearing zone, every hollow, however small, lying within reach of any
portion of the close network of streams, contains a bright pool, so
that the landscape viewed from the mountain-tops seems to be sown
broadcast with them. Many of the larger lakes are encircled with
smaller ones. In general, however, there is no marked dividing line
as to size. In the basin of the Merced River, there are over one
hundred small lakes upon the tributaries that fall so grandly into the
Yosemite Valley.

Pohono Creek, which forms the fall of that name, takes its rise
in a beautiful lake, lying beneath the shadow of a lofty granite spur
that puts out from Buena Vista peak. This is now the only lake
left in the whole Pohono Basin.

Most of the lower lakes vanished thousands of years before
those now in the Alpine landscapes were born, and owing to the
deliberation of the upward retreat of the glaciers, the lowest of the
existing lakes are also the oldest.

The lake-line today is about 8000 feet above sea-level, some-
what higher than this towards the Southern extremity of the range,
and somewhat lower towards the Northern. A few miles to the
North of Mount Ritter, at an elevation of about 12,000 feet, at the
foot of one of the summit peaks, is situated the highest known lake
in California. Since the beginning of the close of the ice-period the
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

whole number of lakes in the Sierra Range has never been greater
than at present.

Shadow Lake is one of the oldest and lowest. It lies about 8
miles above Yosemite Valley on the main branch of the Merced
River at an elevation of about 7,350 feet, and it is everywhere so
securely cliff-bound that without artificial trails it is impossible to get
down to it. Its original length was about a mile and a half, now
it is only half a mile in length by about a quarter of a mile in width
and about 98 feet deep.

The colour-beauty about Shadow Lake during the Indian sum-
mer is truly magnificent, almost every leaf is then tinted, and the
golden rods are in full bloom.

Lake Starr King, lying to the North of the cove of that name,
above the little Yosemite Valley, is a fine specimen of what is termed
a bench stop-lake. These lakes, instead of being encompassed by a
narrow ring of trees like Orange Lake, lie embosomed in dense
moraine woods so dense that in seeking them it is quite possible to
pass them over and over again, although one may know nearly where
they lie concealed.

Generally speaking, glacier lakes vanish more slowly than the
meadows that succeed them, because, unless very shallow, a greater
quantity of material is required to fill up their basins and obliterate
them than is required to render the surface of the meadow high
and dry for meadow vegetation.

The dry Lakes found on the Mojave Desert are very numerous.

The YoseEMITE NATIONAL PARK covers an area of 48 miles
by 36 miles and embraces a cul-de-sac about seven miles long by
three-quarters of a mile wide—called the Yosemite Valley. In no
other place have the snow-waters of high mountains found such variety
and beauty of course down mountain walls to unify in a valley river.
In Spring, from beneath the great snow mantle of the High Sierras
pour the snow-waters into the cup of the Yosemite, and all the sum-
mer, though in lessening volume, these forested, lake-dotted mountains
provide great reservoirs of crystal water, which continue to feed the
streams of the Park. With its water-falls thundering over ice-carved
precipices half a mile high, its wealth of bloom, its groves of mighty
redwoods, three hundred feet and more in stature, the Yosemite
National Park may, without any exaggeration, be said to be one of
 

AEROPLANE VIEW OF YOSEMITE VALLEY

1,2, 3, THREE GRACES 15
4 BRIDAL VEIL FALLS 16
5 LEANING TOWER 17
6 MERCED RIVER 18
7 WAWONA ROAD 19
8 EL PORTAL ROAD 20
0 RIBBON FALLS 21
10 EL CAPITAN 22
II, 12, 13, THREE BROTHERS 23

14 CATHEDRAL SPIRES 24

SENTINEL ROCK 25
UNION POINT 26
SENTINEL DOME 27
GLACIER POINT 28
YOSEMITE FALLS 29
ROYAL ARCHES 30
WASHINGTON COLUMN 31
NORTH DOME 32
BASKET DOME 33

MT. WATKINS 34

HALF DOME
MIRROR LAKE
VERNAL FALLS
NEVADA FALLS
LIBERTY CAP
ILLILOUETTE FALLS
MT. STARR KING
LITTLE YOSEMITE
CLOUDS’ REST
TENAYA CANYON
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

the marvels of nature, and, as it is so situated, that it is easily
accessible all the year round both from San Francisco and Los
Angeles, the visitor to California will never regret a trip, if only of
three days’ duration, to the Heart of the Sky Mountains, and the
Vale of Ahwahnee.

Starting from Merced the Yosemite Valley Railroad follows
the beautiful Cafion of the Merced River, once famous for its gold-
bearing gravels, now for its speckled trout, After a journey of
seventy-eight miles the gateway of the valley is reached—El Portal —
from which starts the auto stage that daily after breakfast covers the
fourteen miles of drive into the heart of the Valley in one and a half
hours. The stages are comfortable and the road, under Federal
supervision, is an excellent one. The way climbs by easy stages two
thousand feet from the river at El Portal up to the floor of the
Valley—four thousand feet above the sea-level.

The first view of the great gash in the heart of the mountain is
almost startling in its effect, as mighty sentinels of rocks, guard the
entrance, and the cliffs and verdant valley swim in light. On the
South wall is Bridal Veil Falls: the stream is fully thirty feet wide,
and falls first a distance of six hundred feet, then rushing over a
sloping pile of debris drops a perpendicular distance of three hundred
feet more.

From a distance the Bridal Veil Falls seem to make but one
plunge of a sheer unbroken descent of 900 feet. Often the wind
swings the great plume of water from the face of the cliff and waves
it like a scarf or veil. At sunset rainbows bejewel its foam with an
indescribable radiance. Around the shoulder, behind which Bridal
Veil Creek makes its way to the brink, are Cathedral Rocks. They
take their name from their resemblance to the Duomo at Florence,
and reach an elevation of 2,600 above the floor of the valley, one
spire rising sheer and solitary for 700 feet. Across the valley and
nearly opposite, is El Capitan. It rises 3,300 feet with an appar-
ently vertical front, thrust out like a buttress, and presents to the
vision an area of more than 400 acres. A little beyond El Capitan
is the group known as “The Three Brothers,” their resemblance de-
pending upon the viewpoint; they are sometimes called the Three
Graces; the Indians likened them to squatting frogs. The highest of
the three 1s 3,530 feet, and is known from other points as Eagle
 

 

THE THREE BROTHERS, YOSEMITE VALLEY
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

Peak—accessible by trail. Sentinel Rock faces the Three Brothers
from the South wall. It is a splintered granite tower or spire, very
slender, and for about 1,500 feet below its apex is nearly perpen-
dicular. Its height is 3,059 feet. At the back of this natural monu-
ment stands Sentinel Dome whose storm-worn top is 4,145 feet high.
All around Sentinel Dome are situated the Camps, the post-office, a
few shops and the Hotel, as here is what is called the social center of
Yosemite, being opposite the great waterfall. From the Sentinel
Hotel start the stages for El Portal, and for Wawona and the
Mariposa Grove of Big Trees.

Seen from afar, the Yosemite Falls seem insignificant, but this is
owing to the fact that everything around one is on such a gigantic
scale: halfway across the Valley it is hard to realize that this
volume of white water plunges 2,600 feet—half a mile!!

As one walks towards it along the footpath, it is seen between
the trees and seems almost an unbroken fall from its granite lip to its
final impact. In reality it is not one, but three falls. The first 1s
1,600 feet of sheer descent, then comes a series of cascades, partly
hidden, with a fall of 600 feet, and finally a straight down leap of
400 feet.

Across the Valley the massive shoulder of Glacier Point is
thrust out from the South wall, and, almost opposite, crossing again
to the North, or left-hand side, as one goes up the Valley, stands
Yosemite Point, flanked on the East by Indian Cafion, once used by
the Indians as their point of entrance into the Valley. The Royal
Arches are near the head of Yosemite, in the vast vertical wall
whose Summit is North Dome. The arches are recessed curves in
the granite front, very impressive because of their size; they are made
by the action of frost. Much of the rock here is formed in layers
like the structure of an onion, the arches being the fractured edges
of these layers. Washington’s Column is the angle of the wall at
this point, being a tower that completes the massive wall at the very
head of the Yosemite. Over against it, but looking down the
Valley, stands the highest rock of all the region—the great South
Dome, or Half Dome, as it is often called: it is 8,927 feet above
sea-level, or nearly 5,000 feet above the floor. Passing up Tenaya
Canon, Mirror Lake is reached, which is formed by an expansion of
Tenaya Creek; if this trip be made before sunrise, everything is
 

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YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

wonderfully reproduced in this little mirror as soon as the sun creeps
over the great flank of the South Dome. Glacier Point is perhaps
the most popular objective in the whole region, the trail is a zigzag,
a triumph of engineering skill. On the way one passes the Vernal
and Nevada Falls, returning down the short trail past Agassiz
Column and Sentinel Rock. On the summit of Glacier Point there
is a comfortable Hotel, and from here many take the stage for the
Big Trees. The projecting rocks which mark the Point are 3,234
feet above the floor of the Valley, being so situated that a pebble
dropped from one of them will touch nothing until it strikes the
talus, 3,000 feet straight below.

Throughout the floor of the Valley runs the Merced River, hav-
ing on each side of it beautiful green meadows, flanked by yellow
pines, firs, tamaracks, cedars, black oaks, cottonwood and a few
sugar pines. It is claimed by some that Major J. A. Savage,
U.S.A., first discovered the Yosemite Valley in March, 1851, but
probably the first white man who saw this wonderful Canon was
Dr. Bunnell in the winter of 1849-50. His first glimpse was of
El Capitan, he being then a long way off. He was ascending the
old Bear Valley trail from Redley’s Ferry, on the Merced River,
when ‘“‘an immense cliff loomed apparently to the summit of the
mountains.” In March, 1851, Dr. Bunnell, then a member of the
Mariposa Battalion, in pursuit of hostile Indians, again saw the great
rock and says that he ‘looked upon this awe-inspiring column with
wonder and admiration.” Directly under Glacier Point, located in
a beautiful grove, is situated the Le Conte Memorial Building, or
Lodge, which is open to the public from May to August. The ini-
tiative for such a memorial was taken by the Sierra Club of Cali-
fornia, which maintains the Lodge. Dr. Le Conte died in the
Yosemite in 1901; he loved the region and visited it eleven times.
His first visit was in 1870, when he wrote, “It was almost an era
in my life; I never enjoyed anything quite so much.”

When he was over 70 years old and ill and feeling that life
was spent, he was again there, riding about alone, and as he says,
“taking leave with tears of the splendid cliffs and glorious water-
falls as of my dearest friends.” He visited this wondrous region
several times after this, but at length closed his eyes amid its
sublimities.
CATHEDRAL SPIRES AND SENTINEL DOME, YOSEMITE VALLEY

 
CLIMATIC CONDITIONS

“Better to hunt in fields for health unbought,
Than fee the doctor for a nauseous draught.
The wise for cure on exercise depend;

God never made his work for man to mend.”

Dryden.

CHAPTER Ill.

CLIMATE

& SU NE of the chief advantages of California is its
4 admirable climate. Other climates may be better,
0 but belong to countries objectionable either on account
0 of their isolated situation, or the semi-civilized con-
3 dition of their inhabitants. It has been claimed,
and I thing deservedly, that the climate of the Coast
of California is more equable, and more favorable to human growth
and comfort, than that of Italy, Greece, or Palestine, countries
which have had the reputation from remote times of having the most
auspicious skies in the old world. The climate of the Valleys of
California is unlike that of any other country, and particularly dis-
similar to the American States East of the Rocky Mountains, resem-
bling in general character more that of Spain.

California’s peculiarities, as distinguished from the Eastern
States, are, that the winters are warmer; the summer—especially at
night—cooler: the changes from heat to cold not so great nor so
frequent: the quantity of rain less, and confined almost entirely to
the winter and spring months, the atmosphere drier, the cloudy days
fewer, and the winds more regular. The State, indeed, has many
climates: one for the Western slope of the Coast Range; another
for the low land of the Sacramento Basin; another for the Sierra
Nevada and Klamath Basin; another for the Coast South of Point
Concepcion and another for that portion of the State known as
the Colorado Desert. The causes of these peculiarities of climate
are chiefly to be found in the position of the State, a narrow strip,
so to speak, on the Western side of the Continent, bounded on the

ol.
 

CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

East by a high range of mountains, shutting the Coast off from all

the influences of the interior, while its shores are washed by the wide
Pacific Ocean, warmed by a current flowing from the China Sea.
This shore line runs nearly North and South and is exposed in all
its length to the strong winds which are constantly blowing Southeast
over the Ocean: then again there is a large, dry plain in the middle
of the State, and a hot, arid desert in the Southeast corner of it.
Nearly every day the wind blows from the Ocean to the land, so
that the sea-breeze is a permanent feature in the climate of Cali-
fornia. In the summer its force is stronger than in the winter, on
account of the great heat of the earth in the Sacramento, San
Joaquin, Mojave, and Colorado Basins.

The air there rises after becoming warm, and the vacuum so
created is supplied by the breezes from the Ocean: these air cur-
rents leave the surface of the Pacific ordinarily with a temperature
of 50° F., and as they advance inland the temperature rises, thus
the mean temperature of July in San Francisco is 57°, in Vallejo
63°, Sacramento 73°, and St. Helena 77°, the difference being
due to the greater or less exposure of these several places to the
winds from the Ocean.

Through the gaps in the Coast Range, strong winds blow almost
constantly into the interior, and as these gaps are so situated, so the
temperature varies, thus two valleys, on the same level, only five miles
apart, may have a difference of 10° in their summer weather.

As the sea breeze prevails in the day-time, so the land breeze
comes on after sunset, and although not strong enough to be noticed
very much in many parts of the State, yet it is regularly felt in
certain parts on the Southern Coast, and in the Cafions of the Sierra
Nevada: the snow of the summits of this range helps materially to
cool the nights by the air from off them pouring down mto the
Valleys below. It is not generally realized that all of France, all
of Italy north of Rome, and half of Spain lie north of the north
boundary of California.

This relative position on the West Coast of the American Con-
tinent would suggest a mild climate, but not necessarily its unique
and exceptional character.

The climate of California is controlled by four great factors:
 

CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA

1. The movements of the great continental and oceanic press-

ure areas.

2. The prevailing drift of the atmosphere in temperate lati-

tudes from West to East.

3. The proximity of the Pacific Ocean, with a mean annual

temperature near the coast line of 55 degrees.

4. The exceedingly diversified topography for a distance of

200 miles from the coast inland.

San Francisco is in the same latitude with Smyrna, Palermo,
Seville, Washington and St. Louis, but knows neither the cold win-
ters, nor the hot summers which afflict these cities.

Ice is rarely formed in the Californian metropolis, and never
more than a thin coating, while the thermometer never stays at
the freezing point twenty-four hours consecutively. The coldest
winter days at noon in California, are as warm as the warmest in
Philadelphia; on the other hand, the summers are cool. In Novem-
ber last, the lowest figure reached by the thermometer in San
Francisco was 47°, while in July of the same year it was 46°, and
the weather in neither month was exceptional for its season. The
mean temperature of July is 57°, twenty-one degrees lower than in
Washington City. There are on an average seven days in the year
when the thermometer rises above 80°—at which figure, heat first
begins to be oppressive—while in St. Louis and at Washington there
are in every year, from sixty to ninety days at which that figure is
reached. No matter how warm the day in California is at noon,
the evenings and the mornings are always cool, and blankets are
necessary as a bed-covering every night. Although the mean tem-
perature of summer differs little from that of winter, yet there are
sometimes some very warm days in September and October, which
may be succeeded immediately by very cool nights.

A German Professor of Climatology, after staying in the State
nearly two years, wrote as follows: “The climate of California
resembles in general character that of Italy, but has not its objec-
tionable effect of depriving the people of the disposition and power
of energetic mental and physical labor. The ‘Dolce far niente’ of
the Southern Italian is unknown in California.”

The London ‘‘Spectator’ said editorially, ‘that the climate of
California is that of Greece, cooled, and the climate of Tasmania is
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CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA

that of England etheralized, and the two are the nearest to perfec-
tion in the world.”

San Francisco seldom suffers from more than three hot days in
succession; when the sun has had an opportunity to rage for so long
a period, the air in the interior of the State becomes so hot, that it
rises rapidly, and the ocean-winds, which must rush to supply the
place, never fail to bring cool weather to the vicinity of the Golden
Gate. The average range of the thermometer in July and August
is about 20°—from 50° to 70° F.—yet, as the mornings and even-
ings are cool, and the noons are not always warm ‘‘summer cloth-
ing” is seldom worn by men, and never for twelve consecutive
hours. The common custom is, to wear woolen clothes of the
same thickness in summer and winter. Those who visit San Fran-
cisco during the summer, from the interior of the State, where the
climate from May to October is much warmer, and where summer
clothes are worn, always bring their winter things with them. The
Editor of a well-known paper once visited San Francisco in July
and on his return home to Stockton, where the summers are very
warm, expressed himself facetiously as follows, with regard to the
climate of the metropolis:

“You go out in the morning shivering, notwithstanding the fact
that you are dressed in heavy woolen clothing and underclothing,
and have a thick overcoat buttoned up to your throat. At 8:30,
you unbutton two of the upper buttons; at 9, you unbutton the coat
all the way down; at 9:30, you take it off; at 10, you take off
your woolen coat and put on a summer coat; at 11, you take off all
your woolen and put on light summer clothing; at 2, it begins to
grow cool, and you have to put on your woolen again; and by 7
o'clock, your overcoat is buttoned to the chin, and you shiver until
bed-time.”’

The coolness of the summer is caused by the winds and fogs
which blow in from the ocean, whose temperature at the Farallones
never varies more than a degree or two from 42°. A strong wind
blows along the Coast from the North and Northwest during almost
the whole year, and it blows strongly upon the land for several hours
after 11 o'clock in the morning.

The common prevalence of this wind during the afternoon,
orp Seems,

CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

renders the morning the pleasantest part of the summer weather in
San Francisco.

In June, July and August, heavy, wet, cold mists come up from
the sea at about six in the evening, and continue until eight or nine
the next morning. In the winter, fogs are rarer, and do not com-
mence so early in the evenings, neither are the winds so strong, so
that, in these respects, the winter in San Francisco, is the pleasantest
season of the year.

The mean temperatures of spring, summer, autumn and winter,
are 54°, 57°, 56° and 50° respectively, showing a difference of
only seven degrees between the average of winter and summer, where-
as a similar comparison in the climate of New York City, shows a
difference of thirty-nine degrees! The mean of the whole year is
54°, a temperature that requires heavy woolen clothing for comfort.
The climate of San Francisco, taken as a whole, is one of the
healthiest in the world for vigorous, industrious men, but to enjoy it,
a man should have full veins and active habits; if he has a weak
spot then San Francisco is no place for him. As a rule women do
not like the climate as well as the men, finding it rather too cool
for their less vigorous constitutions, in spite of the fact that it has
made their complexions famous. San Francisco does not lie
immediately on the Ocean, being six miles from it, the intervening
space being a great gap which lets in the winds and the fogs. It is
a good rule to remember with reference to California climate, that
the nearer the Pacific Ocean, the denser and more frequent the fogs;
the stronger the winds, the warmer the winters, and the cooler the
summers. his great Ocean is a powerful equalizer of climate, for,
as one advances into the interior, the range of heat and cold becomes
greater. Sonoma Valley has a delightful climate, free from fogs
and cold winds, and yt fanned by a sea breeze which tempers the
heat of the summer days; the same may be said of Santa Clara
and many other valleys along the Coast.

The number of cold nights, in which the thermometer fell, at
San Francisco to 31°, numbered seventy-four in 20 consecutive
years, less than 4 to a year on an average. Of these seventy-four
cold days, twenty-four occurred in December, thirty-three in Janu-
ary, eleven in February, four in March, and one each in April and

May.

 

7

Rat 7 Wh
 

RAINFALL

January and July are the two typical months, the January of
San Francisco is 4° warmer than that of Sacramento, 7° warmer
than St. Helena, 18° warmer than New York, 12° warmer than
London, and 3° warmer than Naples, Italy. The difference be-
tween the mean temperature of January and July is 9° greater at
Santa Barbara, 20° greater at Sacramento, 27° greater at St.
Helena, 35° greater at New York, and 22° greater at Naples than
at San Francisco.

On an average, there are two hundred and twenty perfectly
clear days in a year, without a cloud, in the Sacramento Valley;
eighty-five days cloudy, and sixty rainy. From the first of April
until the first of November there are, in ordinary seasons, fifteen
cloudy days; and from the first of November till the first of April,
half the days are clear. Near the ocean shore, coast-clouds or
fogs are frequently blown up from the sea, but as a rule, they dis-
appear after ten o'clock in the morning.

The climate of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valley differs
from that of San Francisco in having no fogs to speak of, faint sea-
breezes, winters four degrees colder, and summers from fifteen to
twenty degrees warmer. The greater heat of the summer in these
valleys is owing to the want of Ocean winds and fogs, and the
greater cold of the winter is caused by the distance from the Pacific,
and the proximity of the snow-covered Sierra Nevada.

The amount of rainfall increases at the rate of about an inch
for one hundred feet of elevation as one ascends the Sierra Nevada
from the West, and decreases still more rapidly as the descent is
made on the other side. The average annual rainfall is about 23
inches at San Francisco, 18 at Monterey, 14 at Santa Barbara, 12
at Los Angeles, and 10 at San Diego, or a little more than two
inches for each degree.

After a rain the rivers rise rapidly. In a very wet season,
if the moisture comes in nearly equal quantities in each one of the
sixteen or twenty weeks, the streams do not rise so high as if ten
or fifteen inches came in one month. Most of the rivers in Cali-
fornia are comparatively short. Rising in the snow-covered moun-
tains and draining a steep watershed along their course, the depth
of water is influenced less by the extent of rainfall than by mild
weather melting the snow at the river's source. The small amount
CLIMATE CAUSES LONGEVITY

of rain during the winter, the entire want of it during the summer,
the warmth of the sun, and the great number of cloudless days,
render the climate a very dry one. Dew is rare, or slight, over a
great part of the State.

The reason that the very hot days are less oppressive in Cali-
fornia than an equal heat in the Eastern States, is because the cool
nights serve to invigorate the system, and the extreme dryness of the
climate favors the evaporation of perspiration, and thus keeps the
body cooler than in districts where the earth is always moist.
Evaporation is so rapid in some parts of the State, away from the
Coast line, that a beefsteak hung up in the air will dry before it
has time to commence to putrefy. In many places, steel may be
exposed to the night air without getting a touch of rust. The so-
called purity of the air should not be estimated by the effects of its
dryness, but rather by its absence of moisture: the air of California
is no purer than that in any other part of the Continent, but it is
drier. The constant decomposition of animal and vegetable matter
lying on wet ground, under a hot sun, causes the air in other States
to be mixed with such gases as are not so free to an equal extent in
California.

Thunder-storms are very rare in this State, and lightning is not
seen more than three or four times a year at San Francisco, and then
it is never near. [hunder is still more rare.

In the Colorado Desert, and in some other districts in the
Southern part of the State, sand-storms occasionally occur. The
sand, which forms the greater portion of the soil, unprotected by
sod, vegetation, or moisture, is swept away in dense clouds by every
high wind and carried many miles.

The Spanish Californians, before the American conquest, had
remarkably large families and were exceedingly long lived. Promi-
nent among the early settlers were eight well-known men who had
eleven children each on an average, the largest in one family being
thirteen, and the smallest nine. Two children of one of these men—
Ignacio Vallejo—had each a dozen, and one grandchild had a
dozen. Jose Antonio Castro had twenty-five. It was not an un-
common event for persons to have several hundred living descend-
ants.
 

 

CALIFORNIA'S CLIMATIC ADVANTAGES

According to the Federal Census report, the number of deaths
in the year, ending June I, 1913, was 16 per thousand, a number
that is very moderate in itself, yet is above the average for the whole
Union, which has only 12. The only States above California are
Louisiana, 20, Massachusetts, 17, and Missouri, 16. The average
mortality among civilized nations ranges from 20 to 40 per thousand,
and we may safely assume that the report that eighteen States have
less than 12 deaths to the thousand annually, is grossly erroneous.

The dryness of the atmosphere, and the equability and mildness
of the temperature are the advantages claimed by California as the
cause of the State’s recognized salubrity. It is a recognized fact
of the medical world, that, roughly speaking, moisture combined with
heat causes fevers and pneumonia; combined with cold it produces
consumption. Malarial diseases and affections of the respiratory
organs, together, carry off a large part of our race, and there are
few places where the percentage of loss by them can be brought to
lower figures than in this State. In Massachusetts, 29 out of 100
deaths are caused by disease of the respiration organs; in Maine,
27, in London 26, in Cuba 25, and in California 30, but of these,
few caught the disease in this State. Most authorities agree that
conditions, such as are prevalent in California, are ideal for the
prevention and cure of consumption in its early stages.

Blodgett, in his work on climatology, expressed the opinion that
not more than four per cent of the natives of California die of con-
sumption, and although he wrote nearly forty years ago, nothing has
since occurred to show that he was wrong.

The census shows that of ten children who die in the Eastern cities,
three might be saved by keeping them in California for their first four
summers. After they reach the age of five, the danger rapidly decreases
for twenty years: the number of those who die in any one year under
five, exceeds that of those who die between the ages of five and thirty.

A great part of this mortality, which I believe is avoidable,
occurs in what is known as the ‘heated term’ (a period of special
dread to parents with young children) comprising the months of
June, July, August and September. Whenever the thermometer
rises and remains for any considerable length of time above 80
degrees, derangement of digestion among infants living in such an
atmosphere is very liable to occur. Milk, and all animal substances
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

used for food, rapidly deteriorate in quality in regions of high
temperature, and, unless great care is taken, become unfit diet for
infants. The infantile stomach is particularly susceptible, and the
child, by its suffering, will speedily show the bad effects of the least
departure from pure, fresh and wholesome food, or water. Per-
sistence in the use of food that has caused disordered digestion is
shown to develop cholera infantum, or some other grave form of dis-
ease. High temperature is everywhere recognized as one of the
chief prevailing causes of diseases of the stomach and bowels, par-
ticularly among children under two years of age, whether nursed at
the breast, or artificially fed. These diseases in their inception are
frequently mere disturbances of digestion caused by heat, or the
deterioration of food, or the unwholesomeness of diet. According to
the weekly mortuary reports of our cities, the diseases of this class
alone are referred to as the cause of over twenty-five per cent of all
deaths occurring during the summer months: the mortality among
children under five years alone increases the death rate in cities from
one-fourth to one-half over the other months of the year. As heat
seems to be the constant attendant, if not the chief cause, of the
“summer complaints’ of children, and consequent great mortality
among them, it is obviously an element to be taken into special
account, and, therefore, desirable to provide for those who are
actually sick, quiet homes, where they can have free ventilation and
pure air of a moderate temperature,

Many parents are compelled by the nature of their business to
live in hot and malarious districts. For such no better place could
be found than the Coast district of California, for the rearing of their
children. Consumption is, in most cases, the outcome of heredity
favored by unsuitable food and the living in a cold humid climate.
In Massachusetts from 20 to 25 per cent of the deaths are from
consumption; in Philadelphia 12 per cent; Boston, Mass., has more
consumption, in proportion to its population, than any other place in
the Union. It is more common among those classes confined to the
house than those who work in the open air, the deaths by consump-
tion in some occupations, rising to 339% of the entire mortality.
The Indians near Puget Sound suffer much from tuberculosis, proba-
bly because they spend a great portion of their time in huts without
ventilation, and nearly always filled with smoke.
CLIMATE

A mild, dry climate is not only a protection against consump-
tion, but is also a cure for it, except in its last stages. Moisture is a
good conductor of electricity; dry air, a bad one. The human body
receives electricity constantly from the earth with which it is in con-
tact, and probably develops it through the organic processes.

In dry weather, this electricity is retained, in a great measure,
and the body becomes loaded with it, the nervous system is stimu-
lated, and buoyancy and cheerfulness of mind follow.

In damp weather, on the contrary, the moisture of the atmos-
phere acts as a conductor, and constantly carries away the electricity
from the body; thence it is at a minimum, and mental depression

foliows.

 

MISSTON SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS (DOLORES)
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

A warm, moist climate impairs the appetite and causes
languor, and a dry, cool atmosphere stimulates the appetite and
invigorates the system. Debility is the main difficulty in consump-
tion, and a warm, moist climate should therefore be carefully
avoided. Persons suffering from debility as well as from tubercu-
losis, should seek a climate marked by dryness, equability and mild-
ness. he nearest approach to such a climate in Europe is found
on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, and in Africa, at Algiers
and Cairo. The topography of California provides many localities
that equal, if not excel, those just mentioned.

The great charm about equability and mildness of temperature
lies in the fact that it stimulates to exertion, and therefore protects
the invalid from dangerous chills and enervating heat, and takes
away any motives for cutting off ventilation.

It is now conceded by the leading authorities on the subject that
consumption, except in the very advanced stages of the disease, is
curable, not by drugs, but by living out of doors in a dry atmos-
phere. The mildness of climate is important to invalids generally,
and perfect ventilation and moderate exercise are in many diseases
absolutely necessary, these two essential points will always be
neglected if they are not at the same time conducive to comfort. In
many chronic diseases changes of climate, diet, and occupation are
among the chief remedies—especially climate.

In California there is the needed variety from the eternal snows
of the Sierras, through a dozen different phases of spring and
summer to the burning sands of the Colorado Desert with its yearly
rainfall of about four inches.

The patient can dwell under the Palm Trees or mn the Orange
Groves of Los Angeles County, under the giant Fig Trees of San
Luis Obispo, in the Vineyards of Sonoma, in the orchards of Santa
Clara or of Yolo, in the evergreen oak groves of Alameda, amidst
the mammoth trees of Calaveras, the majestic white oak groves of
Napa, under the shadows of the Cliffs of Yosemite, or amidst the
sulphurous fumes of Geyser Caiion.

Sunstroke is almost unknown in California, even in the interior
valleys where the summers are much hotter than in New York;
neither are any lives lost in the valleys by intense cold. The
THE RIVIERA OF THE PACIFIC

dryness of the atmosphere, in the very hot weather, secures a rapidity
of evaporation which keeps down the temperature of the body, and
thus the excessive heat is not realized.

St. Helena very nearly resembles Mentone, being two degrees
warmer in January, four degrees warmer in July, and having seven
inches more rain. Dr. J. H. Bennet, who first brought Mentone into
notice as a health resort for consumptives, and whose book, “Winter
in the South of Europe,” is a good work, strictly orders his patients
to leave Mentone in the late spring, because the summer is too warm
and moist. St. Helena, San Rafael, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles
and its environs, and San Diego, are the Mentones of California.

St. Helena is forty miles from the Ocean and fifty miles North
of San Francisco, near the head of Napa Valley, and shut in by
high mountains, which cut off the wind and fog. Though the rain-
fall is greater than at San Rafael, yet the atmosphere is drier and
more agreeable to consumptives and asthmatics. The distance from
San Francisco is three times greater than to San Rafael, but the
people of St. Helena can come to the metropolis, spend four or five
hours there and return the same day. About two miles away are the
White Sulphur Springs, a favorite summer resort; eight miles off
are the Calistoga Springs, another summer resort, and eight miles
farther still is the summit of Mt. St. Helena. The town is in the
center of a grape-growing district.

San Rafael is fifteen miles North of San Francisco, and eight
miles from the Ocean, and has less fog and wind than any other
town near the edge of San Francisco Bay. It is not equal in the
dryness of its atmosphere and the scantiness of rainfall to the
Southern parts of the State, but it has the great advantage that its
residents can go daily to San Francisco and attend to their business.
A thermometer record shows that the mean temperature of January
is 30° at Da. m.; 38 at 12 m.; 60° at 3p. m.; and 31° at 6
p. m.; while in July the means for the same hours are 59°, 65°,
68° and 66° respectively.
]
§
i

3

PR

GRIZZLY GIANT

 
 

THE GIANT TREES

“A living thing,
Produced too slowly ever to decay,
Of form and aspect too magnificent
To be destroyed.”
Wordsworth.

CHAPTER 1V.

THE FORESTS

2) ORE than eighty years ago David Douglas, an enthu-
2 gjastic botanist and tree lover, wandered alone
through fine sections of the Sugar Pine and Silver
Fir woods wild with delight. A few years later,
other botanists made short journeys from the Coast
into the lower woods. Then came the wonderful
multitude of miners into the foothill zone, mostly blind with gold-
dust, soon followed by sheepmen, who, with wool over their eyes,
chased their flocks through all the forest belts from one end of the
range to the other.

  

Then the Yosemite Valley was discovered, and thousands of
admiring tourists passed through sections of the lower and middle
zones on their way to that wonderful park, and gained fine glimpses
of the Sugar Pines and Silver Firs along the edges of the dusty
trails and roads.

Although the coniferous forests of the Sierra are the grandest
and most beautiful in the world, and grow in a delightful climate in
the most interesting and accessible of mountain ranges, yet strange
to say, they are not well known.

The distribution of the general forest in belts that extend in
regular order from one extremity of the range to the other is their
distinguishing feature, and however dense and somber they may
appear in general views, you will not find, not even down in the
leafiest hollows anything to remind one of the dank, malarial selvas
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

of the Amazon and Orinoco or the dense dark woods of Douglas
Spruce where rolls the Oregon.

The giant pines, firs and sequoias of California hold their arms
open to the sunlight, rising above one another on the mountain
benches, marshaled in glorious array of beauty in inexhaustible
variety and harmony. The inviting openness of the Sierra woods is
one of their most notable characteristics. The trees of all the species
stand more or less apart in groves, or in small irregular groups,
enabling one to find a way nearly everywhere. This simple arrange-
ment in zones and sections brings the forest, as a whole, within the
comprehension of any observer. The different species are ever found
occupying the same relative positions to one another, as controlled
by soil, climate and the comparative vigor of each species in taking
and holding the ground; and so appreciable are these relations, that
within a few hundred feet, it is quite possible to determine the eleva-
tion above the sea-level by the trees alone; for although some of the
species range upward for several thousand feet, they all take on new
forms corresponding with the variations in altitude.

Starting from the West and crossing the treeless plains of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, you reach the Sierra foothills
and enter the lower fringe of the forest, composed of small oaks and
pines, growing so far apart that not one-twentieth of the surface of
the ground is in shade at clear noonday. After advancing fifteen or
twenty miles, and making an ascent of from two to three thousand
feet, one reaches the lower margin of the main pine belt, composed
of the gigantic Sugar Pine, Yellow Pine, Incense Cedar and Sequoia.
Next you come to the magnificent Silver Fir belt, and lastly to the
upper pine belt, which sweeps up the rocky acclivities of the summit
peaks in a dwarfed wavering fringe to a height of from ten to
twelve thousand feet.

It appears that the Sierra forests in general indicate the extent
and positions of the Ancient Moraines as well as they do lines of
climate; for forests cannot exist without soil, and since the Moraines
have been deposited upon the solid rock, and only upon elected
places, leaving a considerable portion of the old glacial surface bare,
we find luxuriant forests of pine and fir abruptly terminated by
scarred and polished pavements on which not even a moss 1s growing,
THE OLDEST LIVING THINGS

©

"though soil alone is required to fit them for the growth of trees 200
feet in height. The Big Trees (Sequoia Gigantea) are found only
in the Sierra Range at an altitude of from 3,500 to 8,000 feet
and are said to be the largest and oldest living things in the world;
the trees next in size and age being the Sequoia Sempervirens,
found in the Coast Range of California. The Sequoia Gigantea
grow to a height of 340 feet, having a base circumference of over
one hundred feet; the bark sometimes exceeds forty inches in thick-
ness, the age is determined by counting the annular rings from the
center, each ring indicating a year’s growth. ~~ Mr. John Muir, the late
well-known scientist, had on one occasion an opportunity of examin-
ing one of these trees that had been burnt partly through, and by
the concentric growths that he found, he estimated its age to be over
four thousand years. The trunks of these Big Trees are columnar,
fluted perpendicularly and in appearance and color vary from a light
brown to a cinnamon. The older trees usually have little foliage for
the first hundred feet, save feathering sprays. The limbs reach an
enormous size, one, 80 feet from the ground, the Grizzly Giant,
in the Mariposa Grove, has a diameter of nearly seven feet. The
best known groves are the Calaveras, South Park, Tuolumne, Mari-
posa and Fresno, ranging from 30 trees in the Tuolumne, to 1,300
in the Calaveras. Along the Kings, Kaweah and Tule Rivers the
groves become forests, and the Big Trees are distributed by thou-
sands over wide areas, it being estimated that in the Giant Forest
alone there are over six thousand trees with diameters of not less than
fifteen feet.

The best known of all the groves is the Mariposa which can be
reached by a day-light stage ride, through forests, from the Yosemite.
During the summer season the stages run every day, and a well-
conducted resort at Wawona, near by, cares for the visitors.

The Nut Pine (Pinus Sabifiana) is the first conifer met with in
ascending the range from the West; it grows only on the torrid foot-
hills, springing up here and there singly, or in scattered groups of five
or six, among scrubby white oaks and thickets of ceanothus and
manzanita; its extreme upper limit being about from 500 to 800
feet. This tree is remarkable for its airy, widespread, tropical
appearance, which suggests a region of palms, rather than cool
resinous pine woods.
Eh — = —
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SA CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT f “~
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Fz Full-grown specimens are from 40 to 50 feet in height and

~~ from two to three feet in diameter. The trunk usually divides into
three or four main branches, about fifteen or twenty feet from the
ground which, after bearing away from one another, shogy straight

— : up and form separate summits, while the crooked radiate and droop
| in ornamental sprays. The general crop of nutritious nuts which the
Kk Nut Pine yields makes it a favorite with Indians, bears, and squirrels.
I i

The Sugar Pine was first discovered by David Douglas on the
head waters of the Umpqua, where it attains very large dimensions, ;
gul7 one specimen having been measured that was 245 feet high and over i

TY 1 eighteen feet in diameter three feet from the ground. Douglas’ first )
visit to the Pacific Coast was made in the year 1825. As he 0;
\/ wandered in the woods collecting specimens of trees and flowers, | Yo
which he loved so dearly, the Oregon Indians watched him with Ty,
curiosity, and when at length they came to know him better, and saw LF]
H that from year to year the growing things of the woods and prairies
|
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tle A were his only objects of pursuit, they called him “The Man of
© Grass,” a title of which he was very proud.
On one of his long trips he saw in an Indian‘s pouch some of the
A | seeds of a new species of pine which he learned were obtained from
1 a very large tree far to the Southward of the Columbia River. At
: the end of the next summer, returning to Fort Vancouver after the
setting in of the winter rains, and still bearing in mind the big pine he
had heard of, David Douglas set out on an excursion up the
Willamette Valley in search of it, and how he fared and what
> dangers and hardships he endured, are best told in his own journal,
from which I quote:

“Oct. 26, 1826. Weather dull; cold and cloudy. When my
friends in England are made acquainted with my travels I fear they
will think I have told them nothing but my miseries—I quitted my
camp early in the morning to survey the neighboring country, leav-
ing my guide to take charge of the horses until my return in the
evening. About an hour’s walk from the camp I met an Indian,
who on perceiving me instantly strung his bow, placed in his left arm
a sleeve of raccoon skin and stood on the defensive. Being quite
sure that these movements were prompted by fear and not by hostile
intentions, the poor fellow having probably never seen such a being
as myself before, I laid my gun on the ground at my feet, and
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waved my hand for him to come to me, which he did slowly and
with great caution. I then made him place his bow and quiver of
arrows beside my gun, and striking a light gave him a smoke out of
my own pipe, and a present of a few beads. With my pencil I
made a rough sketch of the cone and pine tree which I wanted to
obtain, and drew his attention to it, when he instantly pointed with
his hand to the hills 15 or 20 miles distant towards the South, and
when I expressed my intention of going thither, cheerfully set out
to accompany me. At mid-day I reached my long wished for pines,
and lost no time in examining them and endeavoring to collect
specimens and seeds. New and strange things seldom fail to make
strong impressions, and are therefore frequently over-rated, so that,
lest I should never see my friends in England to inform them verbally
of this most beautiful and immensely grand tree, I shall here state
the dimensions of the largest I could find among several that had
been blown down by the wind. At 8 feet from the ground its cir-
cumference is 57 feet 9 inches; at 134 feet, 17 feet 5 inches; the
extreme length, 245 feet. As it was impossible to climb the trees
that were growing, I endeavored to knock off the cones by firing at
them with ball, when the report of my gun brought eight Indians, all
of them painted with red earth, armed with bows, arrows, bone-
‘tipped spears and flint knives. They appeared anything but friendly.
“I explained to them what I wanted, and they seemed satisfied
and sat down to smoke, but presently I saw one of them string his -
bow, and another sharpen his flint knife with a pair of wooden
pincers, and suspend it on the wrist of the right hand. Further tes-
timony of their intentions was unnecessary. To save myself by
flight was impossible, so without hesitation I stepped back about five
paces, cocked my gun, drew one of the pistols out of my belt, and
holding it in my left hand and the gun in my right, showed myself
determined to fight for my life. As much as possible I endeavored
to preserve my coolness, and thus we stood looking at one another
without making any movement or uttering a word for perhaps ten
minutes, when one at last, who seemed to be the leader, gave a sign
that they wished for some tobacco. This I signified that they should
have if they fetched a quantity of cones. They went off immedi-
ately in search of them, and no sooner were they all out of sight
than I picked up my three cones and some twigs of the trees and

THE STORY OF DAVID DOUGLAS £7

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THE BIG TREES OF CALIFORNIA
AMONG THE PINES

made the quickest possible retreat, hurrying back to the camp, which
I reached before dusk. . . . I now write lying on the grass
with my gun cocked beside me, and penning these lines by the light
of my Columbian candle, namely, an ignited piece of rosin-wood.”

This grand pine discovered under such exciting circumstances
Douglas named in honor of his friend, Dr. Lambert of London.

Full-grown specimens are usually about 220 feet high and from
6 to 8 feet in diameter near the ground. The trunk is a smooth
round, delicately tapered shaft, mostly without limbs, and colored a
rich purplish-brown, usually enlivened with tufts of yellow lichen.
At the top of this bole, long, curving branches sweep gracefully
outward and downward, forming a palm-like crown.

The Sugar Pine is said to surpass all others, not merely in size,
but also in kingly beauty and majesty, and has been described as
the noblest pine yet discovered. The needles are about three inches
long, finely tempered and arranged in rather close tassels at the ends
of slender branchlets that clothe the long, outsweeping limbs. The
cones are commonly from 15 to 18 inches long and about 3 inches
in diameter, green but shaded with dark purple on their sunward
sides; they are ripe in September and October. The Sugar, from
which the common name is derived, is stated to be better than maple
sugar; it exudes from the heart-wood in the shape of irregular, crisp,
candy-like kernels; when fresh it is perfectly white. Indians are very
fond of it, but because of its extreme laxative properties only small
quantities are eaten.

The most constant companion of the Sugar Pine is the Yellow
Pine, but the Douglas Spruce, Sequoia and the White Silver Fir are
also more or less associated with it, and on many deep-soiled moun-
tain-sides, at an elevation of about 5,000 feet, it forms the bulk
of the forest.

The Yellow Pine ranks second among the Pines of the Sierra
as a lumber tree, and almost rivals the Sugar Pine in stature. It
has, owing to its powers of enduring variations of climate and soil, a
more extensive range than any other conifer growing on the Sierra.
The specimens attain their noblest form in filled-up lake basins,
especially in those of the older Yosemites, and so prominent a part
does it form of their groves, that it may well be called the Yosemite

Pine.
     
    

 
 

 
   

a & Ba NR , 5 Se SERN 5
, PROSTRAT PERHAPS DURING THE LIV M f- MEN,
TREES: IS THEIR POWER TO RESIST AGE AND DECAY

THE “FALLEN MONARCH” IN THE MARIPOSA GROVE OF BIG TRE
SOUND. THE MARVELOUS THING ABOUT THESE

 
Ripe specimens favorably situated are almost always 200 feet
or more in height, and the branches clothe the trunk nearly to the
ground. :

The Douglas Spruce is the King of the Spruces, as the Sugar
Pine is King of the Pines. It is one of the largest and longest lived
of the giants that flourish throughout the main pine belt, often obtain-
ing a height of nearly 200 feet with a diameter of six or seven.

This vigorous spruce is ever beautiful, welcoming the mountain
winds and snow, as well as the mellow summer light and maintaining
its youthful freshness undiminished from century to century through
a thousand storms. Two of the largest specimens in California are
in the Yosemite Valley, one of which is in the terminal moraine of
the South Fork Cafion, and the other is in front of the Liberty Cap
near the Nevada Fall.

The Incense Cedar is another of the giants quite generally dis-
tributed throughout the Sierra forest, without exclusively occupying
any considerable area, or even making extensive groves. It ascends
to about 5,000 feet on the warmer hillsides, and reaches the climate
most congenial to it at about from 3,000 to 4,000 feet, growing
vigorously at this elevation on all kinds of soil. The largest speci-
mens are about 150 feet high and seven feet in diameter. The bark
is brown, of a singularly rich tone, very attractive to artists, and the
foliage is tinted wtih a warmer yellow than that of any other ever-
green in the woods.

Up to the age of 70 or 80 years, no other tree forms so strictly
tapered a cone from top to bottom. The branches swoop outward and
downward in bold curves, excepting the younger ones near the top,
which turn upwards, while the lowest droop to the ground, and all
spread out in flat, ferny plumes, beautifully fronded and imbricated
upon one another.

The most regularly planted of all the main forest belts are com-
posed almost exclusively of the two Silver Firs—the White and the
Atres Magnifica or Red Fir. These belts extend with no greatly
marked interruptions for 450 miles, at an elevation of from 5,000
to nearly 9,000 feet above the sea. In size, these two Silver Firs
are about equal, the Magnifica perhaps being a little the taller.
Specimens from 200 to 250 feet high are not rare, at an elevation
of from 7,500 to 8,500 feet above sea-level; the largest ones stand

Rp ———
+ 117
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

back three miles from the brink of the North wall of Yosemite
Valley. Both the Silver Firs live 250 years or more when the
conditions about them are all favorable. On the topmost branches
the fertile cones are set firmly on end like small casks. They are
about six inches long, three wide, covered with a fine gray down,
and streaked with crystal balsam.

The bulk of the Alpine forests, extending along the range above
the fir zone up to a height of from 8,000 to 9,500 feet above the
sea, is formed of the two-leaved, or Tamarack Pine. Compared
with the giants of the lower zones, the Tamarack is a small tree,
seldom attaining a height of a hundred feet. The average height of
mature trees throughout the entire belt is from 50 to 60 feet, with a
diameter of two feet. It is a well-proportioned, handsome little
pine, with grayish-brown bark and crooked, much-divided branches,
which cover the greater portion of the trunk. The foliage is short
and rigid, two leaves in a fascicle arranged in comparatively long,
cylindrical tassels at the ends of the tough, up-curving branchlets.

The Mountain Pine becomes stronger and more imposing just
where other species begin to crouch and disappear. It is called the
King of the Alpine Woods, being brave, hardy and long-lived,
towering grandly above its companions. At its best it is usually
about 90 feet high, and five or six feet in diameter. About two-
thirds of the trunk is commonly free of limbs, but close, fringy tufts
of sprays occur all the way down, like those on the shafts of the
Sequoia. The bark is of a deep reddish-brown color near its upper
limit and furrowed rather deeply, while the cones are from 4 to 8
inches long, slender, cylindrical and somewhat curved. They grow
in clusters of about from 3 to 7. The Mountain Pine is first met
on the upper margin of the fir zone, growing singly in what appears
as chance situations without making much impression on the general
forest, but at an altitude of 10,000 feet it attains its noblest develop-
ment near the middle of the range and often reaches the age of one
thousand years.

The Juniper or Red Cedar is found in California at a height
of from 7,000 to 9,500 feet, occupying the baldest domes and rocks
where there seems scarcely a handful of soil. In such situations the
trunk is frequently over 8 feet in diameter and not much more in
height.

ans: laa
win,

CALIFORNIA CONIFERS

Some are mere weathered stumps, as broad as they are long, and
decorated with a few leafy sprays, reminding one of the crumbling
towers of some ancient castle scantily draped with ivy. Two of the
largest, growing at the head of Hope Valley, measured 29 feet 3
inches and 25 feet 6 inches in circumference respectively, four feet
from the ground. The bark is of a bright cinnamon color, and
beautifully braided and reticulated, flaking off in thin, lustrous rib-
bons that are sometimes used by the Indians for tent-making. Some
are undoubtedly over 2,000 years old.

Of all the Californian conifers, the Hemlock Spruce is the most
singularly beautiful. So slender is its axis at the top, that it bends
over and droops like the stalk of a nodding lily. The branches
droop also, and divide into innumerable slender, waving sprays, which
are arranged in such eloquent harmony that it baffles description.
Its cones are purple, hanging free in the form of little tassels two
inches long from all the sprays from top to bottom.

It grows best where the snow lies deepest, far up in the region
of storms, at an elevation of from 9,000 to 9,500 feet, on frosty
Northern slopes, but it is capable of growing considerably higher—
say 10,500 feet. The tallest specimens are from 80 to 100 feet
high and from two to four feet in diameter. The largest specimen in
the State is 19 feet 7 inches in circumference four feet from the
ground, growing on the edge of Lake Hollow at an elevation of
9,250 feet above the level of the sea. At the age of about 30 years
it becomes fruitful, and hangs out its beautiful purple cones at the
ends of the slender sprays.

Some of the finest groves of the Hemlock Spruce are to be found
on the Southern slopes of Lassen’s Butte; there are also some smaller
groves on the head waters of the Tuolumne, Merced and San
Joaquin Rivers; the Mountain Pine grows beside it, and more fre-
quently the two-leaved species. Every tree-lover is sure to regard
it with special admiration and even apathetic mountaineers, seeking
only game or gold, stop to gaze on first meeting it.

The deer love to lie down beneath its spreading branches; bright
streams, from the snow that is always near, ripple through i
groves, and bryanthus spreads precious carpets in its shade.
 

A FIELD: OF DAFFODILS IN ALAMEDA COUNTY
 

>

“Is there any fruit or flower,
Any gem or jewel old,
Any wonder of creation
That this garden doth not hold?”

“California.”

CHAPTER ' V.
AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE.

28 ALIFORNIA ranked second in land area and twelfth
$ in population among the States of Continental United
States. The soils vary from heavy clay to sandy and
gravelly loams.

Over one-fourth of the land area of California is
in farms. The average value of farm land per acre
as a whole is $47.16. Between 1900 and 1910 there was an
increase of 21 per cent in the number of farms as compared with
an increase of 60 per cent in the population.

The average size of the California farm is 316 acres.

In California there is a great area of semi-arid land utilized
for grazing purposes only or left unutilized. Upon such lands are
located many very large farms or ranches, and these explain the
high average acreage per farm.

The number of all farms is 88,197. Of these, 66,632 are
classed as owners, 3,417 as managers, and 18,148 as tenants.

Of the 66,632 owners, 56,500 operate land owned exclusively
by them, while 10,132 operate land which they rent in addition to
that which they own. The owners hold 75 per cent of all farms,
tenants 20 per cent, and 4 per cent is operated by managers.

The acreage sown to wheat and other cereal crops in California
has greatly decreased in recent years, the land being devoted to or-
chards and vineyards, which yield a much higher profit. California,
however, has held the first place in the production of barley for a
number of years, in fact, as far back as the year 1852. In 1911

     

- o
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

California had 1,450,000 acres devoted to barley yielding 40,-
600,000 bushels, the yield per acre being 28.0 bushels. Buck-
wheat has never been grown to any extent in California; the area
under cultivation is but a few hundred acres, and the production
from 10,000 to 15,000 bushels. The production of corn has also
fallen off largely from 1883 to 1891. In 1911 the acreage
was 51,000, and the production 1,836,000 bushels. In oats the
acreage has increased from 60,000 in 1900, to 210,000 in 1911,
and the production from 1,477,000 bushels in the former year to
7,140,000 bushels last year. Rye has always been a small crop in
California, and the area and production have fallen off greatly in
recent years.

With the growth of population and the diversification of farming,
the California wheat crop has kept on falling behind home con-
sumption. Many large grain ranches, which formerly sent large
quantities of wheat to market, have been divided into fruit and
vegetable farms.

Wheat growing in California developed with the large increase of
population which followed the discovery of gold. During the first few
years of the rush to the gold fields food supplies, including flour,
were brought long distances. The year 1853 recorded the last
extensive imports of wheat and flour. It is said that 81,322 sacks of
wheat, of about 100 pounds average weight, and 99,600,000 pounds
of flour were imported in that year.

Wheat at one time was the most important crop in the State, and
the area included from 1,050,000 acres in 1868 to 3,239,000 in
1897, and the production from 14,175,000 bushels in 1870 to
45,097,000 bushels in 1896, since then it has rapidly declined.
The crop is nearly all winter wheat, very little spring wheat being
grown in California.

The potato crop is of considerable importance, and also shows
a steady increase in both area and production. In 1871, the acreage
was 11,032, and in 1911, 72,000 acres. The area in hay the last
two years was 700,000 acres and the price per ton $10.90.

All the coast valleys of California are favorably situated, in
respect to temperature, for the production of sugar-beets, and this
State is recognized as the principal beet-sugar producing one in the
Union. The bounty paid under the provisions of the tariff act of
—

SUGAR-BEETS, HOPS, COTTON, RICE

1890, amounting to two cents a pound, proved a powerful stimulus
to investments in beet-sugar manufacture. The production of beet-
sugar in California in 1911 was 3,260,769 bags of 100 pounds
each.

The United States is one of the three leading hop-producing
countries of the world, the others being the United Kingdom and
Germany. The leading States in the production of hops are Cali-
fornia, Oregon, Washington and New York. The climatic condi-
tions and soil of California are more perfectly adapted to this crop
than any other State in the Union, and its average production per
acre is greater. The average production per acre in other hop-pro-
ducing countries of the world has been estimated as follows: Eng-
land, 905 pounds; Germany, 510 pounds; in the United States
885, and in California, 1,469 pounds per acre. For thirty years
Sacramento held the first place in the production of hops, a place
since taken by Sonoma County.

The first cotton grown in the United States was in Virginia,
about 1721. The acreage in the United States in 1911 was thirty-
five million, the three leading States being: Texas, Georgia and
Alabama. California in 1911 had 12,000 acres under cultivation
and produced 11,000 bales of 500 pounds, and 5,250,000 pounds
of lint. Ever since Imperial Valley was first settled, twelve years
ago, cotton has been raised experimentally with the result that its
success 1s now an established fact.

If the importance of rice as a food-product is to be measured by
the number of persons who consume it, rice must, without a doubt,
be considered the greater cereal, as it is more widely and generally
used as a food material than any other. It was introduced for culti-
vation into the United States in 1647, when Sir Wm. Berkeley, then
Governor of Virginia, received half a bushel of the grain from
England. Up to 1860, the Carolinas and Georgia produced the
entire commercial crop. Experiments in California have been con-
ducted on three types of soil, covering a large area in Sacramento
Valley. Three years’ results indicate the. possibility of growing rice
in this region on a commercial scale, the important thing now being
to determine the varieties best adapted to the region. Its culture has
opened up a new industry for lands which have hitherto been deemed
unfit for anything but wheat, on account of the adobe condition of
 

 

CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

the soil. The time of harvest varies, according to the variety, from
August to November. The yield per acre varies a great deal accord-
ing to the variety sown. In 1910, from 2,000 pounds to 6,700
pounds per acre were produced, and but for blackbirds the yield
would have been heavier. Last year, from four acres of the Jap
variety, 361 sacks, or over 90 sacks to the acre was harvested; each
sack contained 110 lbs. This rice was sold for seed, netting a
return of over $300 per acre. In 1911, about 180,000 pounds
were grown on 55 acres of black adobe land in Butte County.

There is no question but that rice growing will be profitable on
the shallower clay soils of the State, where the water supply is
sufficient for the requirements of the crop.

The first tobacco cultivated in the United States was at James-
town, Va., in 1612. In those early days it was the medium of
exchange and standard value. The Virginians who settled Ken-
tucky and Tennessee grew tobacco as early as 1810; since then the
cultivation has spread enormously, twenty-four other States now pro-
ducing tobacco, some with only a few hundred acres, others with
thousands. In 1911, the four largest producing States were: Ken-
tucky, Virginia, North Carolina and Ohio. New Hampshire and
Vermont are the lowest, with 100 acres each.

In 1870, California first appears to have experimented with
tobacco, Monterey raising 59,120 pounds, Colusa 1,000 pounds,
and Fresno 40 pounds. Ten counties produced only 63,809 pounds.
In 1880, San Benito headed the list with 64 acres and 59,100
pounds, Los Angeles 10 acres with 8,000 pounds, and 9 other
counties, the total amounting to 84 acres with 73,317 pounds. In
Fresno County, a Turk has cultivated 10 acres of Turkish tobacco
for the last two years, which is reported to be of fine quality, and
for which it is stated he realized from 35 to 60 cents per pound.

Of vegetables, the potato is the most important raised: the
acreage in 1911 was 72,000, and the production 9,720,000
bushels, valued at $8,748,000.

The acreage in beans in 1910 was 157,825, producing beans
of the value of $6,292,955; the acreage in dry peas was 2,959,
valued at $101,016.

Lima beans are only grown in any quantity in 5 counties, and
have come into great favor in recent years. They were fist culti-
 

 

LIMA BEANS—CATTLE i

vated in Carpinteria Valley about forty-five years ago, and after
1884 the growing extended. The bulk of the crop is raised in Santa
Barbara and Ventura Counties, Orange, Los Angeles, and San
Diego Counties being next in order. The average yield is 14 sacks
of 80 pounds, or 1,120 pounds to the acre, but in the best sections
25 sacks or 2,000 pounds to the acre are considered good.
Beans have become one of the most important vegetable crops in
the State, and the production for 1911 was larger than ever before.
It 1s stated that there were 200 cattle and 100 sheep in the
Southern part of what is now San Diego County, in 1769. In
1778, the Mission books show that there were 500 cattle in Cali-
fornia. In 1831 there were 216,727 cattle, 153,455 sheep and
839 swine.

About 1850 a demand for Eastern cattle arose; at first they
were Inferior in size and appearance .to the best in California, but
after 1862 better grades came in rapidly. In 1855-56 cattle began
to enter Southern California from Texas.

Sheep averaged about $3.73 per head in those years. In
1858-9, owing to the Indians being troublesome, only a small num-
ber were driven, and the following year the business ceased.

In the early days oxen were largely employed in farming opera-
tions. In 1860, they numbered upwards of 26,000, but the number
declined rapidly during the next ten years and after 1890 they
dwindled away.

The first neat cattle introduced into America were brought to the
West Indies by Columbus in 1493. From these islands they were
taken by the Spaniards into Mexico about 1525, where they spread
over the territory now included in the States of California, New
Mexico, Arizona and Texas, and became the progenitors of what
are now known as ‘“Texas Cattle.” The early English settlers im-
ported large numbers of cattle, and now only the breeds introduced
by the Spanish in the South, and the English in the North can be
traced.

The first horses in what is now the United States were landed
in Florida in 1527. The horses used by De Soto on his Western
journey and abandoned by him were undoubtedly the progenitors
of the wild horses of the Southwest. In 1604, French horses were
introduced into Acadia (Nova Scotia); in 1609, English horses
A MISSION BELFRY
A HUNDRED YEARS
NOTES OF THESE
FORNIA VALLE :
TOWERS, THEY BID THE

GO, “BEFORE THE GRINGO CAME,” THE MELLOW
OLD BELLS FLOATED OVER THE SUNNY
TODAY, STILL SWINGING IN THEIR TIME-WORN

CALY=

AITHFUL TO MATIN AND TO VESPER SONG

 
 

HORSE-BREEDING

were landed at Jamestown, Va., and in 1623, horses of Dutch
origin were brought to New York.

At one time in the history of the Colonies, horses became so
cheap that little attention was paid to breeding, and the deterioration
in size which followed became an object of such concern that regu-
lations were made prohibiting horses below a certain size to run at
large and forbidding the breeding of undersized ones. The typical
American horse of today may be said to have sprung from the stock
imported into Nova Scotia, Virginia, New York, and Massachusetts,
constantly crossed by stock of the best breeds of the Old World.

The horses imported for breeding purposes were the English
thoroughbreds, a cross between the Arabian and the Barb. They
were brought to this country about 1750, but the total number im-
ported prior to the Revolution did not exceed fifty horses and
twenty mares.

The French-Canadian horse is the descendant of horses brought
to Canada by the French. They have become reduced in size, but
still retain the good qualities of their Norman ancestors, and consti-
tute one of the best breeds of farm horses.

Roadsters, and in less degree, coach horses, arc bred from trot-
ting stock. There are English and other foreign breeds or types of
coach horses, but they are not much used in this country. The
American-bred roadsters may be said to comprise practically all the
light harness and coach horses in the country.

Foreign draft horses of all the well known breeds are constantly
being imported into this country, but the English draft is the most
common.

There are also French, Belgian, and German horses and Shet-
land and other ponies.

In 1832, Henry Clay, who was a great advocate of the use of
mules, brought the first pure-blooded Catalonian jack to Kentucky,
and from then until the Civil War quite a number of jacks were
imported. With the revival of business after the war, there was a
great demand for mules, and they were imported from all the
Mediterranean countries.

Until this time there had been but two breeds of asses generally
recognized in this country, the Maltese and Spanish. The importa-
tions into Tennessee and Kentucky have resulted in the production of
 

 

a native type that is regarded by some breeders as better than any
now imported. There are also a large number of small donkeys,
or burros, descendants of the small asses brought into Mexico and
New Mexico at the early settlement of that section by the Spaniards,
and are used principally by the Spanish and Mexican element.
They are most useful in the mountainous sections.

In 1565, Spanish sheep were introduced into Florida, and those
in that State today preserve traces of their Spanish origin. In 1773,
they were introduced into California, and under the care of the
Missions rapidly increased until, in 1825, it was estimated that
seventeen of these Missions, extending from San Diego to San Fran-
cisco, held an aggregate of 1,003,970 sheep, exclusive of flocks
owned by ranchers.

It was claimed by earlier authorities that these sheep were Meri-
nos, but more recent authorities affirm that they were the Churro, or
common, sheep of Spain.

The Merino is supposed to have originated in Asia Minor. The
period from 1845 to 1855 marks the transition from fine wool sheep
to coarse wool and mutton sheep.

The principal breeds now are Southdown, Shropshire, Leicester-
shire, Cotswold, Dorset Horns, Spanish, and French Merino and
Persian.

The Angora goat, a native of Asia Minor, was introduced into
this country in 1849, and has been bred extensively. Angoras are
among the most useful of domestic animals. Their fleeces, called
the mohair, furnish material for the manufacture of some of the
finest fabrics, their flesh is exceedingly delicate and nutritious, and
their milk is richer than that of the cow.

The swine introduced into the United States by the early colo-
nists were of inferior stock.

Between 1818 and 1830, the Chester White was evolved. The
Berkshire was introduced from England about 1830, but did not
come into general favor until 1870 to 1880.

The Poland-China originated in Ohio between 1838 and 1840.
Other breeds are Yorkshires and Hampshires. The interest in swine
breeding in recent years is illustrated by the dates of first registration
of the different Swine Breeders’ Association, which was as follows:

American Berkshire, 1875; Standard Poland-China, 1877; Amer-
Fa 1y

PROLIFIC PRODUCTION A ay
Pe any Tw { ) 3
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pres?
7

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ican Chester White, 1884; American Essex, 1887, and Standard (fT S
White, 1890.

As a result of this interest, swine in this country have attained
a high standard with regard to form, bone, and time of maturity.

With the exception of the turkey, all the different species of
poultry now kept on American farms are of European or Asiatic
origin. The fowl, or chicken, is unquestionably Asiatic.

The raising of poultry in California is carried on successfully
and on a large scale, the center of this industry being at Petaluma,
in Sonoma County.

In the earlier years the parent stock of the honey bee in this
7) country was the common brown or black bee of Germany. In
1860, the Department of Agriculture introduced the Italian bee,
9s about 20 years later the Cyprian, and still later the Carmiolan.

Y In 1860, 12,276 pounds of honey and 584 pounds of wax
i were produced.

In 1900, 3,667,738 pounds of honey and 115,330 pounds of
wax.

The number of farms reporting bees decreased from 6,915 in
1900 to 6,869 in 1910, while the colonies of bees increased from
129,444 to 200,718, or 55.1 per cent, and the value increased
from $364,000 to $728,000, or 100 per cent.

In addition to the above, the State of California produced in the
year 1913 more of the following than any other State in the United
States: Barley, Lemons, Wines, Melons, Almonds, Beet Sugar,
Olive Oil, Pickled Olives, Celery, Asparagus, Quicksilver, Platinum,
Magnesite, Asphalt, Borax, Precious Stones, Pink and Black Eyed

Beans.

NR TT

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RICIIMOND

: LEE Lam «1 oui AN . Eh
TILE STANDARD OIL PIPE LINE TERMINUS AND OIL REFINERIES AT PT.

 
FBP

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] ! =

VAST RESOURCES

“A mask of gold hides all deformities.”

CHAPTER VI.
MINES AND MINERALS.
ALIFORNIA is rich in minerals, but as yet com-

paratively little has been done to develop its vast
resources, with the exception of gold mining and in
% more recent years in the petroleum fields.

The existence of Petroleum in California has
long been known. The native Indians used it in
the form of asphaltum for various purposes, and it was utilized by
the Catholic Fathers for roofing their missions and other buildings.
For nearly half a century Russia was the largest producer of petro-
leum in the world, but now occupies only the second place, the first
being held by California. Until the year 1875, practically all the
oil produced in the United States came from Pennsylvania and
New York; in 1876, California, West Virginia, and Ohio became
producers, but California soon took the lead, and has kept on
increasing ever since.

Ventura was the pioneer county in California in the second suc-
cessful search for oil. In June, 1865, the first well was started, but
it was a failure. In 1876, oil of good quality was found, and by
1883 production was well developed.

In Los Angeles the industry dates from February, 1892, when
two wells were dug, and at 150 feet oil was found.

In Santa Barbara County oil was first struck in the Summerland
district in 1893, many of the wells being sunk beyond low-water
mark. In 1902, the Pinal Oil Company of Santa Maria began
operations, and, meeting with marked success, many other companies
have since undertaken operations in this field. The developed fields
lie on the low, rolling hills between the Santa Maria and Lompoc
Valleys, and the wells are known to obtain their oil from the
Monterey shale which underlies this region. The Hartnell well,
struck in 1904, produced 10,000 barrels daily for several months,
and at the time was said to be the greatest well ever drilled in the

United States. :

 
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

In the Coalinga field, the first well was drilled about the year
1890 to the depth of 163 feet, and a windmill pump was attached,
which raised 20 barrels of oil in two days.

In 1910 Coalinga showed an increase of 3,592,291 barrels
over the previous year, but all other districts showed a decrease com-
pared with 1909.

In Orange County prospecting for oil commenced as early as
1867, but it was not until 1897 that the Santa Fe Railroad made
a strike in the Fullerton District, and since then developments have
been steady. In Kern County the production of oil first commenced
in 1898 with an output of 10,000 barrels, increased to 15,000 the
following year, and is now the largest oil-producing county in the
State. The Kern River district, near Bakersfield, is the largest
producer, and the new Lost Hills fields, where oil was struck in
October, 1910, by the Lakeshore well, the first ever drilled there,
at a depth of less than 600 feet.

An estimate made by Mr. Ralph Arnold for the Geological So
vey states that the known oil fields of the State can furnish a mini-
mum of five million barrels of oil per annum. In other words, a supply
of cheap and most efficient fuel is available in California for a century
to come. It was estimated in 1908 that the petroleum area in
California was 850 square miles, and the natural gas area was 310
square miles. A vast system of pipe lines has been constructed from
the various fields to the Coast. There are several lines from the
Coalinga fields, two of over 300 miles in length to Point Rich-
mond, on the Bay of San Francisco.

When the Standard Oil Company broke ground for its plant in
1901, Richmond was a little community of scarcely 200 people.
Today it is a thriving city of 20,000 inhabitants. The establish-
ment of the Richmond Refinery provided a means whereby a large
percentage of the output of the California petroleum fields could be
placed on the market as refined products instead of as crude oil,
thereby adding greatly to the mineral wealth of California.

Petroleum or Rock-oil 1s a combustible fluid formed from the
conversion of vegetable and animal remains. It varies greatly in
colour and consistence, being sometimes thin and pale, at others thick
and dark coloured. The nature of the hydrocarbons also varies con-
siderably with the district; the Naphthene series Petroleum is pro-

 
 

THE THERAPEUTICS OF PETROLEUM

duced only in Russia and California, and when properly refined
should be pure, odourless, colourless and tasteless.

The selection of the correct crude oil for the particular product
to be manufactured is a very important consideration.

At the Richmond Refinery, with its one hundred and seventeen
stills, all sorts of petroleum products are turned out. In the process
of refining the crude oil for commercial purposes very interesting
discoveries have been made of the value of refined petroleum with
regard to its medical uses. Among the bi-products obtained during
these chemical investigations is one known as Calol Liquid Petro-
latum Heavy (California oil), which has been greatly lauded as a
valuable agent in the treatment of constipation. More than thirty years
ago a French writer mentioned that paraffin oil was much used in
Germany as a simple laxative, but to Sir William Arbuthnot Lane,
M. D., of London, must be given the credit of first urging upon
the medical profession the peculiar and efficient value of refined
petroleum as a safe and pleasant laxative. From a chemico-medical
standpoint heavy liquid petrolatum having a specific gravity ranging
from .886 to .892 at 15° C. (.88) 10 8837 at 25° C., LI: S, A.)
is a hydrocarbon, and yet it is not a fat. It is a mineral oil and
differs radically from all animal and vegetable oils in the fact that
it will not saponify when mixed with alkalies, it does not oxidize
when exposed to the air, nor is it attacked or decomposed by
bacteria, nor digested or absorbed by the animal body, in fact, its
action 1s purely mechanical, carrying before it all waste and
obnoxious matter. From many careful experiments it was found that
the same amount of oil taken by the mouth was collected on its
emerging from the lower bowel, thereby proving that its action is
purely propulsive. Dr. J. H. Kellogg of the Battle Creek Sani-
tarium has recorded in the New York Medical Journal the results
of his experiments with this oil in several thousand cases. He
says that, even in the most obstinate cases, it proved so valuable an
accessory as to constitute the most essential feature of a necessary
combination.

One of the interesting features of the many sided useful activities
of liquid petroleum is its behavior toward intestinal toxins. Being
itself non-absorbable, it takes up a very considerable portion of the
toxins found present in the colon and thus prevents their absorption.
The value of neutral petroleum products as a dressing for wounds

 
STANDARD

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IL

       

- ed

S&L
GUSHER

 

|
|
 

 

DISCOVERY OF GOLD

is well known. It acts in an equally favourable way upon irritated
mucous surfaces, being applied in the form of a spray.

Surely it can be truly said that the phrase “‘having struck oil in
California” now acquires a new meaning!

California was for many years chiefly known to the world as the
region where gold was obtained in large quantities. The existence
of gold had long been known in California, and washing had been
carried on in the southern part of the State near San Fernando
Mission as early as 1841. After the discovery of gold in the
northern part of the State in 1848, there was a rush of immigration
during the fall and winter of that year, and in the following year it
was estimated that 100,000 men reached California from the East—
across the plains and by way of the Isthmus of Panama. The
excitement continued during the three succeeding years, but fell off in
a marked degree in 1854. Those who first got hold of the rich
bars on the American, Yuba and Feather rivers made sometimes
$1,000 to $5,000 a day, but these rich spots were mostly limited in
area. [he auriferous belt of California extends through the northern
and central parts of the State, and from the summit of the Sierra to
the San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys. The gold occurs in three
types of deposits: River gravels, or placers, high panels, and veins.

The State of California annually produces about $16,000,000
to $20,000,000 in gold, much depending on the “water season.”
There are about 1,100 producing mining properties in the State,
rather more than half being placers. Gold is more widely distrib-
uted than any other substance thus far mined in California, thirty-
three counties out of the fifty-eight in the State showing a gold yield
in 1909. Gold was discovered by James W. Marshall on January
24th, 1848, at Sutter’s Mill, near Coloma, El Dorado County.

Silver is found in twenty-six counties, Shasta being the leading
producer. :

Copper is produced in thirteen counties, Shasta again being by
far the largest producer.

There are fifteen quicksilver mines, situated mn eight counties,
that produced quicksilver in 1910, when California furnished 83.5
per cent of the total production in the United States.

Gems are found in six counties, San Diego and Tulare (Coun-
ties) being the largest producers.
 

D IN 1797

EL, FOUNDE

I

ARCAN(

tL

UE

OF SAN MIG

RS

CLOISTE

THE
THE WORK OF THE PADRES

“Bells of the Past, whose long-forgotten music
Still fills the wide expanse,
Tingeing the sober twilight of the Present
With colour of Romance.”
Bret Harte.

CHAPTER VI],
THE MISSION FATHERS AND THE MISSIONS.

V\ WOR over one hundred years, from 1668 to 1779,

NG slow progress was made in civilizing and colonizing

iN

1

x California. Occasional expeditions followed in the
7 AX track of their predecessors with similar results. Still
i the highly colored accounts of the rich El Dorado

with mountains of gold and shores of pearl, continued
to spread and enthuse the adventurous souls of the age. In 1677
the Spanish Government decided that the California conquest and
colonization should be undertaken again, and this time with more

vigor and with the additional aid of the Fathers of the Church.

Accordingly the crown appointed Admiral Don Isidro Ontondo
commandant of the expedition. The evangelizing missionaries were
selected from the Jesuits, the most powerful spiritual organization in
Mexico at that time. The Archbishop of Mexico conferred the
honors of leading the Evangelizers on Father Francisco Kuhn—a
much beloved priest. Admiral Ontondo was to afford military pro-
tection while Father Kuhn and his priests converted the Indians.

It was not, however, until 1683 that the expedition set sail up
the Gulf of California and active operations commenced. For two
years they met with varying success in Lower California, yet many
natives were christianized and much good was done.

Just at this time the Spanish Exchequer was not in a particularly
flourishing condition, so the Court determined that such a heavy drain
on its resources could not be maintained, as nothing of any value was
returned to Spain in exchange for her expensive conquest and evan-
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

gelizing expedition and the scheme was deemed impracticable. After
a second effort by Ontondo and Kuhn, the Spanish Government
withdrew the expedition and offered the entire control and large
grants to the Jesuits if they would continue the projected under-
taking. This proposal was not accepted by the Fathers and thus
abruptly terminated for awhile the undertaking.

Father Kuhn, who had affectionately been called El Padre
Kino, was bitterly disappointed at this unexpected turn of affairs.
While pondering over the subject he met with a priest as zealous as
himself; these two men in their love and great enthusiasm for the
Catholic faith undertook, without means and without support, to
accomplish what the Spanish crown had failed to bring to a success-
ful issue.

The second priest was Father Salvatierra. Later on Fathers
Picola and Ugarta joined Fathers Kuhn and Salvatierra and the
four pioneers set to work with zeal and determination. After many
great obstacles and painful hardships success at length crowned their
efforts. The faithful servants established various missions in parts
of Lower California.

In 1691 Kuhn explored the Gilda Valley and made notes of
the remains of a once flourishing race. Between 1700 and 1709
Kuhn and his associates discovered that Lower California was not
an island but part of the mainland. The Missions now extended
from Cape St. Lucas to San Diego and from the City of Mexico to
the Arizona line.

From 1725 to 1760 the Jesuits lost ground in their own
dominion in spite of the fact that they had converted the desert and
barren country into a veritable oasis. Miners and settlers began to
pour into the land of wealth. Hatred was fomented against the
priests and secularization assiduously advocated. At last, after much
pressure had been brought to bear on him, King Charles III of
Spain issued an ordinance in 1766 making it imperative for all
Jesuits to leave the Spanish dominions. The decree of banishment
reached Lower California in 1768, and they were forced to leave
the field of their hardships and toils, and California was once again
inhabited by Aborigines alone. During the latter half of the 18th
century, England, France and Spain were much interested in
America and their respective Colonial possessions.

 

|
|
|
£4

FRAY JUNIPERO SERRA

Shortly after the Jesuit Fathers had been banished, Spain de-
creed that the Franciscan Friars should take charge of the Missions
in Lower California, and also establish further Missions in upper
or New California as rapidly as possible in order to occupy the
country should England or France direct their attention to the land
of the Golden West. The chief establishment of the Franciscan
Friars was located at San Fernando, and to it was entrusted the
labor of evangelizing the Indians and establishing Missions up the
Coast. The head of this influential convent honored Junipero Serra
by selecting him director and head of the California Mission.

The early history of California is thus inseparable from that of
Junipero Serra—a man of superior intellect and fervid religious zeal.
He had early been ordained, and had attracted considerable reputa-
tion as a preacher among the Indians of San Luis Potosi.

Friar Serra had renounced the world and all its amusements, and
found no attraction in woman's society, and less in the jovial com-
panionship of his own sex. He was ever serious and never indulged
in a smile or jocularity of any kind. His habits were austere, and
he frequently practised personal chastisement, lashing himself with
wire ropes and stones, and burning himself with torches. He made
many friends and few enemies, and lived as pure a life, and did as
many noble deeds, as has fallen to the lot of any priest either before
his time or since.

Early in the year 1769, several expeditions, both by land and
by sea, brought the Fathers of St. Francis to San Miguel, now San
Diego. Shortly after the arrival of Fray Junipero Serra active work
began, and on July 11, 1769, the first mission in California proper
was founded, the Mission of San Diego. About the same time a small
expedition with Portold in command set out for Monterey. With
this party were Friars Crespi and Gomez. On reaching the mouth
of the Salinas River, the Coast appeared different from what it had
been described to them, and they were unable to discover Monterey
Bay, so thinking it perhaps was still farther North, the expedition
pushed enward. On the last day of October the company reached
one of the heights of San Pedro and here halted for rest. While
camping at this spot, a small expedition under Sergeant Ortega set
out to explore the Coast and tramped along the beach for many
 
————

 

DISCOVERY OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY

weary days; arriving at the cliffs opposite Seal Rocks, they were
unable to go farther on the shore, so took to the hills. Ascending
the cliffs, up the rough and rugged rocks, Ortega gazed in wonder-
ment on the extensive inland sea and the Golden Gate! This was
the first time of which there is any record that San Francisco Bay
was seen by Furopean eyes.

During Ortega’s absence, all remained quietly in camp excepting
a few soldiers who were out hunting for game in the Northeastern
hills. Having ascended several hundred feet above the surrounding
country they too saw the large inland sea. So San Francisco Bay
was discovered by the two companies of Portola’s expedition about
the same time. On receiving the news, Portola and Crespi broke
camp on the 4th of December, 1769, and determined to look at
this large sheet of water themselves. They could scarcely believe
that it was correct, as the many earlier explorers by sea had never
even hinted of the existence of such a large body of water, which it
could hardly be conceived could have escaped their experienced eyes.
Reaching the San Bruno summits, the whole expedition saw what
Ortega and the soldiers had already seen. The company then re-
traced their steps to report the discovery of a harbor large enough

to contain the whole Spanish fleet. They arrived back at San Diego
on January 24, 1770.

The following April, two more expeditions, one by sea and the
other by land, were sent out to discover Monterey. The “San
Antonio” with Father Serra on board sailed on April 17, 1770,
and reached the harbor of Monterey on May 31. They found the
bay just as it had been described over one hundred and fifty years
before.

The land expedition had reached the bay just the week preced-
ing. There was a grand jubilee, and on the third of June of that
same year the whole country was formally occupied and taken
possession of in the name of the King of Spain. As soon as the
news of these important discoveries and occupations were sent to
Mexico and Spain, High Masses, congratulations, and receptions,
were held galore in honor of this important extension of the Spanish
crown. Liberal and extensive provisions were made for the further
establishment of Missions.
 

MISSTON SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO, FOUNDED 1776
 

 

FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS

On July 11, 1771, the San Antonio Mission was located at the
Santa Lucia Mountains. Another, that of San Gabriel, followed in
August of the same year, being located on the San Gabriel River.
The San Luis Obispo Mission was founded the following year.

In 1776 two Missions were founded, one being the San Juan
Capistrano, the other the Mission of Dolores at San Francisco.
From the time Portola’s expedition discovered San Francisco Bay
in 1769, several exploring companies had been sent out to report on
this wonderful sea which had so completely escaped detection. Friar
Crespi explored the Eastern side of the Bay as far North as the
Carquinez Straits in 1772. Here he discovered the San Joaquin
and the Sacramento Rivers. In 1774 another expedition explored
the Western shore of the bay as far as the Golden Gate, and in
1775 the ship “San Carlos,” with the “Saint Ayalo’” entered the
Golden Gate—the first time its waters had been disturbed by any-
thing excepting the Indian canoes.

In 1776 Friars Palou and Cambon, with several married civil-
ians and soldiers established the San Francisco Mission. This was
the first occupation of San Francisco! The military and the civilians
occupied the Presidio, whilst the Fathers set to work building the old
Mission Church. Many other Missions were now being established
in several parts of California. Evangelizing the Indians was pushed
forward as rapidly as possible. The country becoming populated
and the soil cultivated, herds of cattle and horses and sheep flour-
ished, and the golden shores of California were soon made to blossom
like the rose.

The Missions rapidly prospered, soon becoming very wealthy
and influential and ruling and governing the country for many years.
Within about fifty years, the Franciscan Friars had established
twenty-one Missions, with large farms and extensive flocks. They
carried on also a considerable trade in hides, tallow, wool and wine.
They owned about twenty-five to thirty miles of the choicest land
around each Mission. These “golden days” continued from 1770
io 1822.

About this time the Spanish power in Mexico had its down-
fall, and with it the Missions and powers of the Franciscan Fathers
commenced to decrease, until finally in 1835 they were formally
abolished and their property confiscated. For several years prior to
 

 

 

 

 

 

|

 

 

 

MISSION SANTA BARBARA

 

 

 
 

 

THE GOLDEN DAYS

this confiscation settlers had been constantly increasing. The Mexi-
cans had been attracted by the richness of the soil and the health-
fulness of the climate. Trappers and hunters and citizens in delicate
health and with adventurous spirits crossed the high Sierras, and
flocked to California. Between 1840 and 1845 more than 5,000
people had crossed the long plains and scaled the high mountains to
make their homes on the shores of the Pacific. Before the close of
1846 there were 8,000 inhabitants. Occasional skirmishes and
petty wars occurred between settlers in the North, and settlers in the
South, and between California residents and Mexican troops. The
country, however, continued to prosper and immigration steadily in-
creased. During the war between the United States and Mexico in
1846-8, over 12,000 persons arrived in California.

In February, 1848, Marshall discovered the first nugget of gold
on the estate of General Sutter in El Dorado County. This was the
beginning of the gold era of California. The news spread like wild-
fire. In less than four years from this date over 250,000 people
were in the State and mining became the universal occupation. With
such an enormous immigration, necessarily a large number of outlaws
found their way to California also. It was during these stirring
times that the noted “Vigilance Committee,” composed of some of
San Francisco’s best citizens, was obliged to administer justice, and
restore law and order. From that time on the State of California
has increased both in population, and in its mineral and agricultural
worth, more rapidly than that of any other State in the Union.
 

GROVE

A CALIFORNIA ORANG
 

EARLY HISTORY OF THE ORANGE

“Know’st thou the land where the lemon-trees bloom,
Where the gold orange grows in the deep thicket’s gloom,
Where a wind ever soft from the blue heaven blows,
And the groves are of laurel, and myrtle, and rose?”

CHAPTER VIII

“THE .STORY OF THE ORANGE.”

li is unknown when the orange was first discovered,
but it is thought it had its origin in the Northern part
2% of India. From India it found its way into Asia,
/ 2% Arabia and Syria. In the eleventh century it was
T2788 cultivated in Italy, Sicily and Spain. The Spaniards
early in the sixteenth century introduced the orange
into America. Vancouver, in his memoir of the Pacific Coast in
1792, relates that oranges were found growing at San Buena Ven-
tura. There is no elaborate mention as to the conditions, merely the
statement of this fact.

The most extensive orange orchard of the early plantings was at
San Gabriel Mission, in Los Angeles County, California. This was
supposed to have been set in 1804 by one Father Thomas Sanchez.
The records of this Mission for that period do not show the extent

  

"of this orchard, but according to inventories taken of the Mission

properties at the time of the secularization of the Missions in 1834,
San Gabriel Mission reported 233 fruit trees upon which no valua-
tion was placed. ~
As this includes all citrus and deciduous fruits, there is no way
of knowing whether it was larger than the present area or not.
Outside of the Mission plantings, a small grove intended for
home use was planted by Lois Vignes at Los Angeles in 1834.
Another orchard was planted by Manuel Reguena in the same year.
Of the other plantings which followed, the most important was that
of William Wolfskill, which consisted of two acres set in 1841, and

ll
 

 

f i 5

~ Ga be rete - . —— pr - —— — ——
d be

& l CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

¥¥} ©
EF : :

ee

© 1 was probably the first orchard in the State planted with the view a
a of raising oranges for a profit. In 1857 a few trees were 13
D | planted at old San Bernardino by L. Van Luven, from seedlings

that were grown by him. He also planted in the same year about
— forty-five trees that were obtained from Los Angeles. About 200
ol trees were planted at Crafton in 1865. At Riverside, fifty-seven
miles East of Los Angeles, in the year 1870 were planted the
first seeds there, and the first trees planted in an orchard grown from

bl! | these seeds was in 1872-3.
eS 4

 

17 It has been stated that about this time two old orange trees
4 71 were found in El Cajon Valley, but there seem to be no data giving 2%

 

 

 

| any information regarding them. In the Northern section of the JR
1 State a tree was grown from seed planted in Sacramento about i
1855, and transplanted in 1859 to Butte County, where it is still is
growing. “

|

]

| Don Juan Bandino, who had so much to do with the early
3 history of Riverside, was at one time Captain of the San Gabriel
r Mission, and in his report, written in March, 1840, he speaks of
T the orange grove as being the only one in Southern California, and
“he that he had given it special care, and had restocked it with more
I than 100 new trees. In 1862, the reports state, there were about
25,000 citrus trees in the entire State, of which the larger number
were located near Los Angeles; but after that date the planting
increased, and especially after 1873, when an impetus was given to
the industry by reason of the building of the railroad, which facili-
tated the marketing of the fruit grown.

The first fruit was shipped to San Francisco and thence to the
East, and brought good returns. The completion of the Santa Fe
lines marked the beginning of a boom in orange planting, and the
story of the returns received in the early days by the growers reads
like a tale of Golconda. It has been reported that as much as
$3,000 from one acre was received, and $800 to $1,500 was no

uncommon yield.

Of course, an industry which would pay such profits was eagerly
sought, and land suitable for orchards advanced rapidly in value.
Other lands advanced correspondingly, and it became profitable to
raise oranges.
STANDARD VARIETIES f1°~

 

2 4 In a few years Southern California became one of the most
qr important sections of the State, and of the Southwest. Today India
Vi in her Cintra orange, has undoubtedly some of the finest fruit to be
| found in the world. Well-grown specimens have but two or three
br seeds, the average market specimens weighing about seven ounces.
I)
f

 

There are five other native varieties grown, while the Malta and St.
Michael have been introduced. Budded orange trees in India decay I~
rapidly after the fifteenth year, and seedlings are so slow to bear
that they are practically useless for fruit growing. In Florida con-
ditions are very different from those of California. The catalogues
of the Florida nursery men list about thirty-three varieties of oranges.

   

A The few standard varieties grown in California, practically =
_ey | are covered by the Washington Navel, Thompson Improved Navel, BEA
bs Valencia Late, Mediterranean Sweet, St. Michael and some seed- B
1 | lings. Mr. Chapman, at San Gabriel, was, as far as is known, =
oT the first to bring the Valencia Late orange or Tardiff, as it is often li

called, to Southern California. The Mandarin Orange was first Fi

introduced into California from China in 1882. The buds put out J

first did not take well, so they were sent to Florida, where the Man- 7

darin is grown quite extensively. The Australian Navel was intro- b

duced from Australia in 1874 by Lewis Wolfskill of Los Angeles.

The claim is made by Australian pomologists that the Australian

Navel originally was imported from Bahia, and 1s the same as the

Washington Navel. But the growth in California does not bear out

this statement.

James Hogg of New York, stated in 1888 that in 1838 he left

Brazil, where he had been a planter, and settled in Florida. Be-

fore leaving Brazil he secured several plants for introduction into

Florida, among which were several Navel orange trees. In the

Seminole War the entire collection was destroyed by the U. S.

troops, for the reason that the owner had given aid to the enemy.

It is not positively known that these trees were of the same variety

as those introduced from Bahia, but it seems probable that this was

the case. None of the trees came into fruiting, and no trace of them

now exists.

In 1868, William. Saunders, superintendent of the gardens and
grounds of the United States Department of Agriculture, learned
through a correspondent then in Bahia, Brazil, that the oranges there
 

i

CALIFORNIA OLIVES PLANTED BY THE MISSION FATHERS
™

71

 

 

 

AR

NAVEL ORANGES

were of a character superior to any known in the United States.
The department accordingly ordered a small shipment of trees. The
first lot was found dead upon arrival, but by sending more minute
directions as to budding, packing and shipping, twelve small trees in
fairly good condition were received by the department in 1870.
These were planted in one of the gardens, and propagated from by
budding on small orange stock. The young trees thus propagated
were distributed to orange growers in California and Florida, under
the name of Bahia, for testing. In 1873 two of these trees, propa-
gated from those originally from Brazil, were sent to L. C. Tibbetts
of Riverside, California. When they came into bearing, the supe-
riority of the fruit to other varieties then grown in California was
quickly recognized, and the trees of Mr. Tibbetts were largely
propagated from by the California nurseries. One of these nursery
men named the variety the Riverside Navel, and claimed to have
imported the trees from Brazil himself. Later, at a conference of
orange growers held at Los Angeles, the name of Washington Navel
was adopted for the variety, under which name it has been grown
generally. The American Pomological Society, however, still ad-
hered to the name ‘‘Bahia,” under which name Mr. Saunders intro-
duced it, and recognized the names Riverside Navel, and Wash-
ington Navel as synonyms.

Records state that about the time the Washington Navel trees
were received by Mr. Tibbetts, some were sent to Alexander Craw
of Southern California. As the Riverside trees were the first to
fruit, those sent to Mr. Craw were not recognized as the true
Washington Navel, so a dispute arose regarding the introduction;
the following is the correct story:

Early in 1873 Mrs. Tibbetts was in Washington, just prior to
going to her new home in Riverside, California. Mr. Saunders
offered to give her some samples of this new and untried orange, and
she gladly accepted two trees. Of the trees of this variety sent to
Florida, some good fruit was produced, but they did not bear
enough to pay: and this has given rise to the idea that there was
more than one variety in the lot of trees which came from Brazil.
But it is now generally conceded that the difference in the fruitful-
ness came from the better climatic conditions that existed in Cali-
fornia.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

 

Ky

) J The Bahia fruit in its native state has no rival with regard to
i quality, but it won't keep long enough, after being packed, to stand
being shipped.

Lak

The Navel orange is grown in Bahia almost in a wild state, and

when ripe will last only two or three days after picking; the skin

I. / is much thinner than that of the California Navel, and by breaking it

k open it is possible to remove the skin from the orange almost in its

NN | entirety. If one end of the orange was then cut off, it could be
Ng taken and all the juice squeezed out without so much as wetting the
i 7 hand. The pulp when eaten has a mushy consistency, and the flavor ©
Tl of the orange is much more delicious than that of the California )
| trl oranges. [5

Nd

/

 

 

| In September, 1889, the Department of State sent a circular
| letter to the consular officers of the United States. This circular A)
! letter was sent at the request of the California State Board of Horti- }
! culture, and enclosed a series of questions relative to the cultivation

pads 1 of oranges, lemons, figs and olives. Mr. Burke, consul at Bahia,

! Brazil, reported some of the following pertinent facts regarding the

i culture of oranges in that place:

a Te Oranges grown there were all used in the place, none being ex-
ported to adjoining States. The supply was so limited as practically
to prohibit exportation.

Among the varieties given was the Navel orange; it was also
stated that they grew to a good size and had a delicious flavor.
The fruit was very heavy and often measured 18 to 20 inches in
circumference. The consul also reported that the Seville orange
which has rather a bitter taste, and the tangerine and wild orange
also are grown there. These three varieties all have seeds.

No cultivating of groves was done, except where grass and weeds
were cut away with a large hoe; neither did they irrigate. As their
rainy season begins about April the first and continues till November,
the fruit ripens in the rainy season, and is picked during the months
of May, June, July and August. The trees in Bahia are propa-
gated by cutting. The orchards are as a rule small ones, and the
oranges are only bought when fully ripe.

In California the growing of oranges and other varieties of citrus
fruits, nearly all of which undoubtedly had their origin in the Malay
Am —
NAC

Sr, p— © gi

OWNING AN ORANGE GROVE

Archipelago, is so firmly established that it may be affirmed that the
growing and propagating of these fruits has reached a higher state
of development than the growing of any other fruit in the world.
Compared with other fruits in America, according to the time since
orange growing on a commercial basis began, there is more money
invested in growing and marketing of the orange and lemon than all
other fruits combined; the freight and icing charges alone amount to
about fifteen millions of dollars annually.

A most direct example of the success to be obtained by close
attention to California conditions may be seen in the Sunny Moun-
tain Orange Groves, which are the most noted and best known
in the Riverside district.

Through close attention to the choosing of stock, a perfect
application of fertilizer, and the use of just the right amount of water
upon properly adapted soil, the owner of Sunny Mountain and many
other growers have succeeded in producing oranges which for beauty,
size and richness of flavor, are excelled by few others in the world.

While taking it for granted that the business of producing:

oranges may attract a few just for the sake of “owning a grove,”
there are many late arrivals who often make the remark, that they
have been given to understand that an orange grove does not pay!

In growing citrus fruit, as in many other industries in which a
man may engage, it is the individual himself that is the most potent
factor towards the success of the enterprise. The successful grower
must bring to his work a thorough knowledge of every phase of the
industry, backed up by a firm determination to succeed in spite of all
difficulties.

For the last twenty years, the cry of “‘over supply’ is constantly
being dinned into one’s ears, but the time has not yet arrived, and
appears still to be far in the future, when this over-supply theory
need be heeded, as on the whole, the growing of citrus fruit offers as
good inducements for honest effort in California today as any branch
of horticultural work in which a man may engage, and not only that,
it is a business that can be conducted while living under almost
perfect climatic conditions.

Dame Nature has done much in the orange section of California
where the vine and the fig tree are also in evidence. Men who
have made a decided success of orange growing have demonstrated
SIERRA MADRE GRAPE FRUIT

 
PLEASURE WITH PROFIT

that it is necessary to put a large amount of study into the handling
of their orchards. No business man, and the successful farmer of
today 1s a business man, would think of investing $5,000 to $20,-
000 in a business, and then expect it to run itself and net him
twenty per cent per annum on his investment, without the expendi-
ture of money for labor, or maintenance! That is just what many
purchasers of orange groves have done. And it is from hearing
of their experiences that so many ask the question, “Does an orange
grove pay?’ “Pay!” repeated one man tc whom this statement
was made, “Well, I guess yes! Mine has averaged me more than
ten per cent net on a valuation of $2,000 an acre for a number of
years, and is getting in better condition every year.” This man does
very little work on the ranch himself, as he employs a first class over-
seer who takes full charge of his place.

Many groves can be brought into a first class condition for far
less than $2,000 an acre, which means a yearly profit of nearly
twenty per cent net.

A great deal of the success attained in growing oranges is
determined by the location in which certain varieties are grown.
Thus in the Whittier and one or two other sections of Los Angeles
County, and the citrus section of Orange County, although pos-
sibly the best sections for growing Valencias in California, are
not as suitable for Navels, and vice versa, the same may be said
in regard to the Navel of those districts lying under the mountains
from Pasadena to Redlands and the Tulare section.

The early shipments of Navels from Tulare County, before
Christmas, and the late shipments from those districts located on
decomposed granite near the mountains, command the best prices
as a rule.

The Valencias, shipped from May to November, obtain higher
prices than the Navel, presumably on account of the smaller ship-
ments and the great demand for the rich, juicy fruit during the
hot weather in some of the Eastern States.

The number of cars of oranges and lemons shipped during
the year 1914-15 is not quite so heavy as the previous year,

being something under 50,000.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

Reviewing some of the valuable information recently gained
through the results of the work of the U. S. Bureau of Plant
Industry, it seems that this Bureau has by its untiring investigations
and suggestions been one of the sole factors in putting the orange
industry in California on a paying basis.

These investigations were made with a view to reducing the
losses by decay in transportation and storage, and it was found that
the losses were due practically to—

I. Mechanical injury of the fruit in picking and packing—

from 5 to 50 per cent;

2. The scale insects, which necessitates the washing of the

fruit;

3. To delay in shipping after packing;

4. To slow cooling of the fruit in refrigerator cars when hot.

From the advice given by the Bureau, the losses have been re-
duced to a comparatively small percentage. The annual losses
directly traceable to the above named injuries amounted formerly to
from one and one-quarter to one and one-half millions of dollars!

That care in handling should be exercised is proved by the fact
that an orange direct from the grove with an unbroken skin seldom
decays.

While there are many obstacles yet to be overcome before the
raising of oranges, will be a perfect system, many of them will be
met by scientific study, and those who will recognize and practice
this, are in the end, bound to meet with success.

The orange belt of Southern California may be said to begin at
a point where the Cajon Pass enters the San Bernardino Valley, and
continues for a distance of eighty miles to Los Angeles. From this
wonderfully favored section there is gathered each year a crop of
oranges which totals in value the sum of more than thirty million
dollars. Riverside, set in the midst of some of the largest groves,
aggregating more than twenty-six thousand acres, sends out thousands
of carloads of the finest specimens of fruit every year to every part
of the world.

The citrus fruit industry has reached its present development in
Southern California, which is made up largely of San Bernardino,
San Gabriel, and San Fernando valleys, and in the coast region in
Orange and Los Angeles Counties. There are smaller but less

 

 
 

THE ORANGE A NATIONAL NECESSITY

favorable regions in Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties, close to
the mountains, and in San Diego County oranges have also been cul-
tivated from an early period, and as far as Butte County in the
North, and Tulare, Fresno and Kern Counties in Central California.

The orange crop of Northern California matures from four to
six weeks earlier than it does in the Southern part of the State, not-
withstanding the fact that it is from 200 to 500 miles farther north.

In Northern and Central California, Tulare leads with 801,151,
Butte 147,412, Fresno 85,781, Kern 80,940, and Sacramento
46,256.

This unusual condition is due to the topography of the Pacific
Coast. The two large San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys in
Central and Northern California lie between two great mountain
ranges extending north and south. The Coast Range mountains shut
off the modifying influences of the sea, causing relatively higher night
temperatures during the summer months than prevail in the southern
part of the State. In Southern California San Bernardino County is
the largest producer of oranges, with 1,951,254 bearing trees; Los
Angeles has 1,674,695, Riverside 1,021,957, and Orange County
478,272.

The shipment of oranges and lemons for the season of 1911-12
from Southern California, amounted to fifty-one thousand carloads!

The shipments from Northern and Central California for the
season of 1913-14, up to the first week in April, show a consider-
able increase. The early shipments from the Central and Northern
parts of the State enable the grower to put their fruit into the East-
ern market in time for the Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year
festivities, thus securing early crop prices.

Notwithstanding the fact that there are many thousands of acres
of groves under cultivation, there still remains a vast area of rich,
fertile soil, highly susceptible to the cultivation of the orange, where
irrigation has been brought to a high point of efficiency, and where
water is abundant.

Today the orange comes under the head of foodstuffs; it has
ceased to be looked upon as a luxury; it has become a necessity.
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VITICULTURE

“When ‘round the festive board we sit,

And pass around the wine,

Remember, though abuse is vile,
Yet use may be divine,

"Twas Heaven in kindness sent the grape
To please both great and small,

It’s little fools who drink too much,
But big fools none at all.”

CHAPTER IX
IN THE VINEYARDS.

; gy HE Egyptians, Assyrians and Hebrews cultivated the
= vine and made and drank wines thousands of years
~~) before the birth of Christ, while allusions are made

[© SR to the industry and custom from Genesis to Revela-
)X=2A) tions. The wines of Helbon and Lebanon were
renowned, as were those of Campania and the coast of

Thrace. The early methods of wine making are often delineated
in sculpture and pictures. The Egyptians were probably the first
actual wine makers, and squeezed out the juice of their grapes
by treading the fruit with naked feet, they then put the juice into
large jars, at the bottom of which they had placed resin before
the process of pouring. This method was afterwards practiced
for many years in Italy and Greece and is still carried out by
many of the inhabitants of the islands of the Archipelago. In
early days the juice of the grape was often mixed with honey, or
a liquor from the pomegranate. The Assyrians and Hebrews
mixed their fermented juices with those from the date and other
sweet fruits. At the time of Homer the wines of Thrace were
the best known. Wine was the ordinary drink of the Greeks in
early days, just as it is today that of the Latin races of Europe.
The processes of the makers of wines in those days were the same
as at present, except that the methods of cultivation and pressing
have undergone essential changes. Up to two thousand years ago

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from grapes, were spiced with wormwood and hoarhound, or
mixed with some saccharine matter. The choicest wines of Rome
were those from the growths of Campania. The favourite drink
of Augustus, according to Pliny and Horace, was the Setine,
a light partially sweet wine made from the juice of the grape
mixed with fine honey. An after-dinner wine in those days
was a certain Campania wine blended with a mixture made
of honey, mulberry seed, pomegranate, and the juice of figs. rsh
There were other after-dinner wines which were an assimilation ay
of Setine and the juice from medlars and mulberries. Coming
down to a later day it is known that the old English made their
own wines, and that where the city of London now stands there
were several vineyards. Those early English viticulturists also
mixed their straight wines with honey, cider, mead or hydromel.
In those days, as in the days of excessive Roman and Greek wine :
drinking, men took wine, not to temperately stimulate, but to get
themselves into the proper condition to be placed under the table.
Coming down to the present day, it is known that the grape was
cultivated for the purposes of wine making, first in Germany and
some parts of Italy, other than the immediate neighbourhood of
~~ Rome, from 800 to 1800 years ago. Wine-making was carried
> on in these countries a long time before it was introduced into
France or Spain. The height of excellent wine-making, however,
was reached first in France, then in Germany, and later in Spain,
and it is today generally conceded that the majority of the most
delicate white wines come from Germany; that the highest order
of red wines are from France, and that the most superior sweet
wines are made in Spain, Portugal and Madeira; that next to
these rank California and Australian wines, and so along through
Missouri, Ohio, New York and New Jersey. Brillat Savarin
tells the story of a certain noted French general named Besson,
who breakfasted invariably with eight bottles of wine. He had a
huge glass, and all one knew was that somehow or other he always
kept the glass empty, and when asked how wine should follow
at a dinner, and which liquid was the most precious to his taste,
said: “The best bottle of wine is precisely the one that comes
last—only they must always keep coming.” Moderate wine drink-

 

 

 
 

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THE MISSION GRAPE {

ing 1s still in vogue among all people of polite means, who scorn
alike the deadly mischiefs of spirits, cocktails and iced waters.
St. Paul advised Timothy to take a little wine for his stomach’s
sake, while we learn from the New Testament, that the Master, at
a certain ceremony of marriage, actually transformed water into
wine. The great wine drink of the masses of civilized mankind,
and particularly in Italy and France and other Latin countries,
is claret, or claret and the many other light red wines which
resemble it. This wine is undoubtedly a much safer and in all
respects better beverage to be taken with food than any other
known. No wine or other prepared liquid, assimilates with food
so satisfactorily. Claret, alone, has not injured many, whereas
the contents of the ice-pitcher or the mischievous soda fountain
have sickened tens of thousands. Probably no human beings have
ever been seriously hurt by a moderate use of good claret taken
with their food. It is used all over continental Europe, by the
poorest as well as by the richest, and its consumption is largely
on the increase in all other civilized sections.

The introduction of the European vines into California dates
back to 1771. They were brought from Spain by way of Mexico
by the Catholic Missions. The Mission of San Gabriel at Los
Angeles planted the first vineyard, and the planting of vines ex-
tended from Mission to Mission, until vineyards of from five to
thirty acres stretched from San Diego to Sonoma. They had but
one variety, which is still largely grown and known by the name
of Mission. A Mission vine planted at Montecito, California, in
1795 was exhibited at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia.
It was 18 inches in diameter, and in one season had produced over
five tons of grapes. At this time all the vineyard labor was per-
formed by the native Indians. All the Missions grew this one vari-
ety of grape, which produced from 700 to 1,000 gallons of wine
to the acre, and practically all was consumed in the neighborhood.
There were no facilities for export, neither were there. casks or bot-
tles. The wine was fermented in cemented cisterns, where it was
allowed to remain, or was drawn into hides, or earthenware jars.
With the downfall of the Spanish power in Mexico, the Californian
Missions waned, and with them viticulture declined also. In 1845
the Missions were abolished and confiscated, and the Americans,

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CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

when dey care into possession, found both Missions and vineyards
i in ruins, According to the sugar retained by the arrest of fermenta-
tion, wines are divided into sweet and dry; according to color, into
red and white, and according to the presence or absence of carbonic
acid gas generated in fermentation and retained under pressure, into
still and sparkling. The presence or absence of sugar contained in
grapes when used for winemaking is influenced by many conditions,
such as the variety of the grape, soil, climate and the vicissitudes of
the season, and will vary from fifteen to twenty-five per cent.

In fermentation, sugar is converted into alcohol, and for sweet
wines the grapes with the largest percentage of sugar are selected.
Before enough of the sugar is fermented out to convert the juice into
a dry wine, grape brandy is added to give the requisite alcoholic
strength, and to arrest fermentation. Red wines are made from
grapes with colored skins, which are fermented with the juice, and
the heat of fermentation extracts the coloring matter. White wines
are usually made from distinct types of light-colored grapes fermented
without the skins. :

In the year 1850, 58,055 gallons of wine were produced by
two counties, and in 1860, 246,518 gallons were made in the
State. The number of grapevines in California in 1858 was
3954548. In 1861 Agostin Haraszthy, as a member of the
Commission on Viticulture, appointed by the Legislature, visited the
famous wine districts of Europe and purchased 100,000 vines, em-
bracing about 1,400 different varieties, which were propagated at
Sonoma. Cuttings from these vines were distributed among the
growers in different parts of the State. From that time the manu-
facture of wine in California has had a continuous and marvelous
growth, interrupted only by the depreciation of prices in certain years.
In 1870, 1,814,656 gallons of wine were produced on farms, the
three leading counties being Los Angeles, 531,710 gallons; Sonoma,
308,496 gallons, and Santa Clara, 85,150 gallons. In addition,
139 wineries, with a capital of $658,420, produced wine of the
value of $602,553, but the quantity is not stated. Between 1870
and 1875 there was a great increase in the acreage of vineyards.
This caused an over-production of wine, which was followed by
ruinous depreciation in prices. Many vineyards were uprooted and
the land devoted to other uses. In 1870 there were 139 wineries;

 
 

VINEYARD DEVELOPMENT

in 1880 the number had fallen to 45. The large vineyardists, how-
ever, continued to improve their properties, and by 1879, as the
result of the growing demand for California wines, consumption had
overtaken production and prices advanced. Since 1880 the progress
of wine manufacture has been continuous. In 1890 the vintage had
increased to 14,626,000 gallons, the five largest producers being
Napa, Santa Clara, Sonoma, Los Angeles and Fresno. In 1900
the production was 19,983,000 gallons, of which 8,433,000 gal-
lons were sweet wines and 11,550,000 gallons dry wines. In the
tariff act of 1789 Madeira is the only one mentioned by name, the
duty being 18 cents a gallon. In 1790 Madeira and Sherry are
mentioned; in 1792, Saint Lucan, Lisbon, Oporto and Teneriffe
wines appear; in 1795 Malaga, Burgundy and Champagne, and in
1800 Malmsey, Rheinish, Tokay and Claret are mentioned for the
first time. Brandy was not named separately, apart from spirits,
until 1842.

Some of the Californian vineyards are now the largest and best
cultivated in the world. In the southern part of the State there is
the large vineyard of the Italian Vineyard Company, in San Ber-
nardino County, comprising 3,200 acres of all the best varieties,
including Alicante, Bouchet, Zinfandels, Burger, and a dozen others.
In Central California there is the Wahtoke vineyard, near Reedley,
in Fresno County, of 3,631 acres, with 2,500 already planted and
in bearing, and containing some of the leading varieties; in Northern
California there is the Italian-Swiss Colony vineyard at Asti, in
Sonoma County. These are the most important large vineyards in
the State.

The largest wine producers and consumers in the world are
France and Italy in Europe, and Argentina in South America. The
total area under wine grapes in Italy is over 11,000,000 acres; in
France about 4,000,000 acres, and in Germany about 280,000
acres. [he Argentina vintage in 1912, according to the Minister of
Agriculture, was 107,800,000 gallons, produced from 1,345,000,-
000 pounds of grapes. The bulk of this enormous output, as in
France and Italy, is consumed at home. The production of wine,
both in quantity and quality, varies considerably from year to year
in all countries, grapes depending more than almost any other crop
upon weather conditions. France is the largest producer in the world,
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

followed closely by Italy. In all wine countries the domestic con-
sumption is large, in France amounting to 33 gallons per capita, in
Italy 25.8 gallons, and Spain ranks next with rather more than 18
gallons. In English-speaking countries the consumption is very small.
There are no reliable data available regarding the production of the
various kinds of dry wine, but since 1890 the exact figures for sweet
wines and brandy have been recorded. The quantity of sweet wine
has increased during the last twenty years from 1,803,000 gallons
to 23,467,000 in 1912, which is by far the heaviest in the history
of the industry. Owing to the dry season the quantity was only
17,927,812 for 1913. Port and Sherry are the two popular wines,
the former leading as a rule, but in some years the output of Sherry
comes to the front, as in 1903 and 1912, when it was upwards of
8,000,000 gallons. Muscatel and Angelica are the next favorites,
followed by Malaga and Tokay. California grows the principal
wine grapes of France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Germany, and
the variety of types of wines produced is unequaled by any country
in the world. Surplus table and shipping grapes are used for the
manufacture of wine, but the qualities desirable in a shipping grape
differ from those of a good wine grape and the product is inferior.
They are more suitable for making brandy, which is their principal
use. Surplus raisin grapes are used for the same purposes, but the
quality is somewhat better. Large quantities of sweet wine and
brandy are made from the Muscat of Alexandria, and form a special
type of their own. The great bulk of all the dry and sweet wines
and of brandy is made from a special wine grape which is unsuited
for other purposes.

It is usual to classify the wine-producing areas of California into
“Dry wine districts” and “Sweet wine districts.” Those inciuded
in the former are situated principally in the valleys and hills of the
counties of the Coast Range, from Mendocino to San Diego. The
great central valleys of Sacramento and San Joaquin, from Shasta
to Kern, constitute the latter. Fine wines are made on the warm,
well-drained slopes of the Coast Range of hills, in similar situations
in the foothills of the Sierra, and in favored locations in valley and
plain, where the physical conditions of the soil resemble those of the
hill slopes. The quality of the wines may be equal in all these
locations, though the character will differ widely, according to the

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WINE-PRODUCING AREAS

climate and to the variety of grapes grown. In the cooler parts of
the northern and central grape-growing regions of the coast counties
the lightest dry wines, resembling the Rhine, Moselle, Champagne
and Medoc types, are made. In the warmer parts of these same
regions and in favored locations in the Sierra foothills and Southern
California, wines resembling Chablis, Burgundy, Hermitage, Sau-
ternes and the fine wines of Italy are made.

Bulk or cheap wines can be made anywhere that the soil, water
and climate favor the production of large crops. This includes the
rich valleys both of the coast and of the interior. The bulk wines of
the coast tend to be too high in natural acidity and low in alcohol;
those of the interior with abundant alcohol are usually deficient in
acidity. These opposite defects are mutually complementary, and by
judicious blending, either of the grapes before or of the wines after
fermentation, good standard wines can be produced very cheaply.

The record production of sweet wine was during the year 1911,
when the different varieties yielded over twenty-three million gallons;
the total amount of Brandy produced was six and a half million
gallons, and the quantity used for forlification was two and three-
quarter million gallons. The production of dry wines for that year
was estimated at twenty-five million gallons.

Practically all the principal wine grapes of Europe have been
introduced into California and tested. About four-fifths of the wins,
both dry and sweet, is made from about a dozen varieties, and be-
tween forty and fifty will include over 95 per cent of the wine
grapes. lhe Zinfandel is the typical red wine grape of California,
and is grown in larger quantities than any other. From it the bulk
of dry and sweet red wines 1s made. The proportion of Zinfandel,
however, tends to diminish in newer plantings. Other red wine varie-
ties largely planted are Carignane, Petite Sirah, Mataro, Bouchet,
Grenache, Alicante, Blue Elba and Charbono. The commonest
white wine grapes are Burger, Colombar, Palomino, Green Hun-
garian, Feher Szagos and Muscat of Alexandria. Of table and
raisin grapes, used largely for winemaking, the principal are, besides
the Muscat, Flame Tokay, Malaga, Sultanina (Thompsons Seed-
less) and Verdal. The yield of average vineyards varies from one
or two tons per acre to eight or ten tons. This difference depends
principally on the soil and climate and on the methods of the grape
        

LARGEST WINE TANK IN THE WORLD. CAPACITY, 500,000 GALLONS, ASTI, CALIFORNIA
 

A LAKE OF WINE

grower. Some varieties have the reputation of being heavy bearers
and some of being light. The differences, however, are more those
of proper adaptation to conditions and the use of proper viticultural
methods. A variety, such as the Semillon, with a reputation as a
light bearer, may produce seven to eight tons to the acre, if planted
in a suitable location and properly pruned and cultivated. A variety
such as the Burger owes its reputation of heavy bearing to the fact
that it will bear in almost any location and however unskillfully it 1s
treated. Practically all varieties producing fine wines require great
care in selection of cuttings, suitable soil and climate, and skilled
treatment by the cultivator. Some varieties, such as the Riesling,
give fine wines, though of different character, wherever they are
planted. Others produce a fine wine in one locality and a poor one
in another. The Cabernet Sauvignon produces a fine wine in the
cooler regions, and a harsh, disagreeable wine in the hot regions.
Most of the varieties recommended for bulk wines are capable of
yielding fine wines under favorable conditions when blended with a
sufficient quantity of finer varieties.

The Italian-Swiss Colony have at Asti, in Sonoma County, what
1s virtually a subterranean lake of wine; it is carved out of the solid
rock and lined with glazed Portland cement. This wine tank is 84
feet long, 34 feet wide and 25 feet high. Its capacity is 500,000
gallons. It would at a banquet supply 4,000,000 guests with a
pint of wine each. When first emptied one hundred couples danced
within its walls to the music of a large military band. The cistern
was built to conserve the wine until opportune time for selling it, and
to make large blends and maintain from year to year the same type
and character of wine.

Mr. A. Sbarboro, the founder of the Italian-Swiss Colony,
and from the commencement its enterprising secretary, has a unique
summer home at Asti that 1s a fac-simile of the Vetti house, which
was uncovered among the ashes of Vesuvius at Pompeii. Several
years ago, when on a tour to his native land, Mr. Sbarboro vis-
ited the interesting ruins of the ancient city that was blotted out
under the fiery wrath of the furnace-mountain behind it. The ro-
mantic trend of his nature prompted him to bring to Asti a replica
of one of the houses that had been buried in the lava maelstrom. A
copy of the plans was presented to Mr. Sbarboro by Prof. Lembo
 

 

VINEYARD AT ASTI, SONOMA COUNTY 5
 

CALIFORNIA CHAMPAGNE

from the original on file in the archives of Pompeii. It is one of the
1 show places of California.

The manufacture of sparkling wines is now engaging the atten-
tion of the winemakers in California, and promises to be successful.
The production of naturally fermented champagne in the bottle
during the last three years has steadily increased, the total being
estimated as follows: In 1911, 580,000 bottles; in 1912,
800,000 bottles; in 1913, 1,000,000 bottles. The bottling is
done in the months of June and July of the following year. The
increase in the output is largely due to the heavy bottling of the
Italian--Swiss Colony during the past ten years. Last year they
filled four hundred thousand bottles of “Golden State Champagne,”
which is the name their brand goes under, and this year it is
expected that six hundred thousand bottles will be filled at Asti.
This champagne is made from a blend of the juices of five varieties
of grapes, the principal grape being the Petit Pinot, which is the
champagne grape so much used in France. The product of the
proper blending of the juices of these different grapes is called a
Cuvee, and after bottling it requires at least three years before it is
really fit to drink. The sparkle or effervescence of the wine is due.
to the production of carbonic acid gas from natural fermentation after
bottling and corking. The same applies to the Sparkling Burgundy,
or Asti Rouge.

About two miles southeast of the town of Sonoma I visited the
oldest vineyard in the State; it consists of a little over two hundred
acres, lying along the sunny hillsides of the Huichica Mountains, and
is known as the “Rhine Farm Vineyard.” Here the soil is particu-
larly fertile and unusually well adapted for grape culture. The
vines planted are of the Rheinish type and best French varieties, and
produce wines of exceedingly fine quality. The cuttings originally
were imported from Europe, and were grafted in 1856 on resistant
stock by the late Mr. Jacob Gundlach, who was one of the first
pioneers to plant out a vineyard in California. It is needless to say
that the viticultural interests of the State of California have had a
great many difficulties to overcome. The very first vineyards
planted were not grafted on resistant stock, and it was not long
before the phylloxera destroyed nearly all of the dry wine vine-
yards. A great many of these were replanted, but not all of them.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

The soil and climatic conditions of beautiful Napa Valley
is another region that is particularly well adapted to the growing
of certain kinds of grapes. A writer has described this secticn
of California as a “Pocket Empire,” and the title is true and
appropriate.

The United States Government, when in quest of a suitable
place for the last days of her G. A. R. soldiers, chose, by the
unanimous vote of the investigating committee, Napa Valley as
the site for their Home. They expended over one million dollars
in land and buildings for the housing of some fifteen hundred
veterans.

Many years ago Colonel Theodore Gier, of Oakland, saw
what, from a viticultural point of view, this spot meant, and bought
many hundreds of acres of rich land which he planted with a
carefully selected lot of all kinds of European vines. On his
Sequoia ranch, in addition to his vineyards, and a 500,000-gallon
wine cellar, he has over 250 species of trees, surrounding a beauti-
ful country home, in the grounds of which is a lake and a small
mineral sulphur spring. This location and soil seems to be par-
ticularly favourable in bringing to perfection the grapes from which
is made wines of the Riesling and Rbheinish type. Near Mr.
Gier’s St. Helena vineyard is the second largest sanitarium in the

United States.

 

 
 

CALIFORNIA GRAPE JUICE

Another Californian vineyard whose product is popular in
Europe is that of the Cresta Blanca. This vineyard is located at
the mouth of the canon of the Arroyo del Valle, near Livermore,
in Alameda County, and embraces a tract of nearly a square mile of
valley land, all of which is adapted to grape culture. Here many
years ago were planted cuttings from the vines of French vineyards,
and here today these vines worthily uphold the high standard of the
parent stock.

The manufacture of Grape Juice in the State of California does
not appear to be increasing. The best authorities place the quantity
at about seventy-five thousand gallons, and it is claimed that so far
there is no profit in its manufacture. Many judges consider that
some of the Eastern varieties of grapes, such as the Concord, are
better suited for the making of grape juice.

The prices paid for grapes vary considerably, according to the
varieties and districts. The average price for standard wine grapes,
such as Zinfandel, in the bay counties was in 1911 $14 per ton,
and in 1912 $15 per ton, but for special varieties, such as Petite
Sirah, Serene, Mondeuse, Cabernet, etc., as high as $20 was paid.
In Fresno County in 1911 the price paid for average sweet wine
grapes (not including Muscats) was $10 per ton, and in 1912
from $5 to $6 per ton. In other parts of the San Joaquin Valley
and the Sacramento Valley $9 per ton was paid for average wine
grapes in 1911, and as high as $11 for special varieties. In 1912
standard grapes were $6 per ton, and for special varieties as high as
$10 per ton. During the year 1913 the average price was $10
per ton, and $27 per ton in dry wine districts in the coast counties.

Almost all the Brandy made in the United States is produced
in California. In 1913 California produced 7,472,561 gallons,
and all other States only 780,313 gallons. Brandy is also pro-
duced from other fruits, and until 1908 was shown separately from
grape brandy in the internal revenue returns; since then all brandy
is included under the head of “fruit brandy.” The quantity, how-
ever, 1s not large; in 1908, the last year the varieties are shown
separately, fruit brandy, other than grape brandy, was only 94,558
gallons, while grape brandy amounted to 5,367,489 gallons. The
fruits from which brandy is made, other than grapes, are prunes,
peaches, pears, apricots, apples, oranges, figs and berries. The
 

 

THE GIER VINEYARDS AND WINERY AT ST. HELENA
 

— 1

TEMPERANCE V. ABSTINENCE

production of brandy during the last twenty years has also greatly
increased. In 1891 the quantity amounted to 1,474,876 gallons,
and in 1913 to 7,472,561 gallons. Considerably more than one-
half of this is used for fortifying the sweet wines, the amount used
for this purpose in 1913 amounting to 4,671,415 gallons.

In 1914 a bill was voted on by the people of California with
the object of making the State dry. It failed to pass, but will be
taken up again in a year or two. At the present time it 1s an
issue of great moment to those who own vineyards, as the proposi-
tion was so drastic that to them, if it passed, it meant ruin.

In the United States prohibitory and restrictive legislation has
divided States into warring political factions and brought about end-
less litigation. In this contest there is one redeeming feature, and
that is that the good people on each side are fighting for the same
cause—the reduction and eventually the removal of the evil of drunk-
enness. The only difference between the contending parties is the
method by which this great desideratum is to be attained. In pre-
senting their case those opposed to prohibition say that prohibition
has been shown not to remove drunkenness in the cities where it has
existed for over fifty years, and where every effort has been made to
enforce it; further, that it would destroy millions of dollars’ worth
of the products of the farmer, throw thousands of people out of
employment, and deprive every American citizen of that which he
most prizes—the sacred right of personal liberty. Cardinal Gibbons
has said that prohibition leads to disrespect of the law, because its
inevitable result is the violation of the law, as is shown in nearly
every city and State where prohibition has been tried. The great
majority of the people of every State in the Union believe in true
temperance, and the great majority of the people of every State do
not believe in prohibition. Henry Ward Beecher once re-
marked: “If you say to me that I ought not to drink, perhaps I
would agree with you; but if you tell me I must not drink, I will
drink, because I have a natural right to do so—to drink what I
please.” A false notion is that the abuse of wine should prohibit
the use of it. It never helps any cause to raise false issues about
it, or defend it with unsound arguments.
 

i So
THE CAMPANILE, UNIVERSITY OF CAL
 

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EDUCATION IN CALIFORNIA

“What shall be said of the great Bishop's town?—
Bishop, and prophet, and poet and seer—
Why, pluck up a cedar, and set her fame down
In gold and in flower-fed atmosphere.
City of cities in stories to be—
Classical, scholar-built Berkeley.”
Joaquin Miller.

CHAPTER x,

THE UNIVERSITIES.

By Wells Drury

22 mind are regarded as rivals: The University of Cali-
2 fornia at Berkeley, and the Leland Stanford Junior
<¢ University at Palo Alto. Theirs is a generous
2) rivalry—each seeking to excel in service to humanity.

There are several other prominent universities and col-
leges, eight normal schools and 254 high schools. Engineering schools,
business colleges, classical and scientific colleges, conservatories of
music, painting and dramatic art, preparatory schools and theological
seminaries are established in different parts of the State.

  

Prospective visitors to California and newcomers will be inter-
ested to know that all of these are open to temporary sojourners on
favorable conditions. A student properly enrolled in an institution
of higher education in another State may, upon arrival in this State,
by complying with the usual regulations, and on being accepted,
enter a Californian institution of grade equal to the one from which
the student comes. After studying here a year or more the student
may, if so disposed, with full credit for the work done, return to the
original place or to some other institution of similar standing, for
completion of course and graduation.
TITS frei SL

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CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
A CHARACTER SKETCH

The University of California has achieved a high place iu the
republic of letters. Its history marks it as the peer of the foremost
seats of learning. In the number of students—which, by the way,
it counts a matter of passing moment—it is the equal of any in
America. Not only has the attendance increased beyond the
expectation of the university's warmest friends, but the hearts of the
people have been turned toward it in a way never before known.
This was manifested in a substantial way when the voters of the
State, at a recent election, granted an appropriation of $1,800,000
for the purpose of providing more buildings on the campus in
Berkeley. In addition to this the Legislature dealt liberally with
the university in allowances for the annual budget, for extension
work, and for general expenditures.

That the University of so young a State, on the western verge
of the continent, should have grown so greatly in worth and in favor
throughout the country, is significant of the internal forces that have
kept it constantly in the course of progress. That it has been
responsive to the highest and best impulses of modern thought is
shown by the original work that is being carried on by the men
and women connected with it. In almost every field of scientific
inquiry exhaustive experiments are conducted, and the results,
announced from time to time, go to enrich the world’s store of
knowledge.

In the exploration of physical sciences which touch the lives of
the people, important results have been recorded during recent years.
This trend of endeavor has added to the popularity of the university
by bringing it into close relation with all parts of the State and with
people in every calling. To one coming to California for the first
time this modernity in education, thought and practice, is marvel-
ously attractive. It invites to the schools old and young alike, and
offers so wide a scope of opportunity that all personal preferences
may be suited.

Women will find in the law of California the gratifying pro-
vision that no person shall be debarred admission to any of the col-
legiate departments of the University of California on account of sex.

 

 
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EMBRYO DAYS

Student government is a distinctive feature, and is found to
exercise an admirable influence over the student body. It 1s a prac-
tical application of the honor system in its highest form, and is satis-
factory to the university authorities as well as to the students.

In his history of the University of California, Professor Wm.
Carey Jones points out that this institution was born of the very sub-
stance of the State, referring to a provision in the constitution of 1849
for the improvement and permanent security of the funds of the uni-
versity, as well as for the establishment of a perpetual fund, to be
inviolably devoted to the support of the common schools throughout
the State. Professor Jones adds that the constitutional convention of
1849 still further sought to provide worthily for the umiversity in
an ordinance wherein admission of California to the Union was
asked, and in which it was urged that the federal government should
set apart seventy-two sections of unappropriated lands within the
State for the use and support of the university.

As the State constitution of 1849 had embedded in it provision
for founding the State University, so the constitution of 1879
reaffirmed that edict by declaring: “The university shall constitute
a public trust, and its organization and government shall be per-
petually continued in the form and character prescribed by the
organic act creating the same, * # subject only to such legis-
lative control as may be necessary to insure compliance with the
terms of its endowments and the proper investment and security of
its funds.” These objects have been kept in mind, and the assets
of the university now aggregate more than $16,500,000. Invest-
ments in profit-bearing properties total more than $9,000,000.

The greater part of this value is centered at Berkeley, where
the campus has been brought to a condition of development and
beautification that probably admits no rival in the country. The
academic groves that grace these spacious grounds compel the admir-
ation of all visitors. The buildings are stately and impressive.

The events of California’s pioneer days contain no phase more
striking than this relating to the inception of the University of Cali-
fornia. It was during the last hours of the convention of 1849 that
the petition for recognition as a State was presented, and the appeal
for higher education was coupled with the plea for the State's exist-
ence. These two ideas, thus joined, were adopted together. Cali-
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

fornia, by initiative of the people and by grace of the national
authorities, sprang into statehood without passing through the sub-
ordination of territorial tutelage, and with the advent of the new
State came the mandate to found and foster the university to which
the men of those days, in fond hopes, looked with prophetic eyes.

Although provision for creating the university was thus early
incorporated in the State’s organic act, nineteen years elapsed before
the idea became reality. Even then the university entered on an era
of unrest and trial that for another decade troubled its existence.
Divided councils in the legislature and contentions among educators
for a long time prevented the fulfilment of the promise made in the
constitution. It was not until the College of California actually had
been established by private means, aided by public-spirited citizens,
and was in successful operation, that the State authorities were suf-
ficiently of one mind to agree on a method of procedure, and then
only through the offer of the College of California to cede all its
possessions to, and to merge its identity in, the University of Cali-
fornia.

The voluntary self-obliteration of the College of California was
carried into effect in 1868, and the University of California, coming
into existence, succeeded to the interests of the College of Cali-
fornia and became endowed with all the land grants and other
revenues that had been pledged by the Nation and the State for
support of the university.

The original College of California, the precursor of the Uni-
versity of California, was planned on the ideals of classical New
England colleges, and men from those institutions dominated its
organization. Quite naturally they were powerfully influential in
the formative period of the University of California. After the
University of California had assumed definite shape, however, there
was a breaking away from the limitations of the College of Cali-
fornia. To the classic and strictly scientific branches there were
added the various pursuits of modern experimentation and systematic
research. Among the important departments brought in may be
mentioned civil, mechanical and electrical engineering, applied chem-
istry, mining and metallurgy, and allied industries, geology and
mineralogy, architecture and practical instruction In mechanical
sciences. Agriculture has been made so prominent that hundreds of

 
«EPs

UNIVERSITY EXTENSION

students are enrolled in these courses, which include instruction in
all branches known to the State, such as viticulture, fruit-growing,
irrigation, rotation of crops. Military science is obligatory on all
male students, made so by a provision of a grant of land from the
national government. The school of jurisprudence has been given a
place of honor by reason of the high character of its faculty.

In the fine arts instruction is given by a corps of men and women
eminent in their professions.

The educational extension division has made the campus of the
university co-terminous with the State itself. Not only are lectures
given by faculty members in the chief cities and towns, but lessons
by mail are disseminated broadcast, with students enrolled in every
community of the State.

The college of agriculture has on its roster as students an army
of men and women actually engaged in cultivation of the soil, in
stock-growing and in other rural occupations, who receive constant
attention to their wants and their inquiries for information. The
effect on farm life has been beneficial. Improved conditions have
brought increased financial rewards. The results have justified the
expenditures that have been lavished on this department of the
university.

The summer sessions of the University of California have attained
national fame, attracting students and professional men and women
from all parts of the country. In 1915 the enrollment aggregated
5388 in actual attendance at Berkeley.

Medicine, surgery, pharmacy, dentistry, training classes for nurses
are provided for amply. In memory of her late husband, Mrs. G.
W. Hooper has endowed a college for medical research. This gift,
amounting to $1,000,000, is being used to found a hospital where
there will be no charges for services rendered.

Mrs. Phoebe Apperson Hearst, who is a member of the Board
of Regents of the university, for years has been its most generous
benefactor. She is constantly active in every good thought and deed
to promote its welfare. To Mrs. Hearst's wise prevision and her
offer to bear the expense of the undertaking, is due the adoption of
the Hearst plan for the Greater University of California, and all of
the structures on the campus will be made to conform to this plan,
as those built in recent years have done.
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CALIFORNIA

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GENEROUS GIFTS TO THE UNIVERSITY

From Mrs. John Franklin Doe and other representatives of the
Doe estate came the noble gift which paid for the new university
library building.

Mrs. Jane K. Sather gave liberally of property and bonds dur-
ing her lifetime, and in her will made large bequests for university
buildings. Notable among the fruits of her liberality are the Tele-
graph avenue gateway, and the campanile, both works of artistic
beauty in design and workmanship.

Mrs. J. H. Boalt, widow of the late Judge Boalt, contributed
to the erection of the university law hall. Miss Annie M. Alexander
for years has borne the expense of research work costing large sums.
Mrs. J. W. Mackay endowed a chair of electrical engineering in
honor of her late husband, a Bonanza magnate. Gifts from women
to the University of California in recent years show a total in excess
of $8,000,000. Gifts from all sources, for the past decade, have
averaged more than $1,000,000 a year.

The early years of the University of California were tinged with
the color of romance. The days were filled with the stress and
struggle that accompany the beginnings of great undertakings. Bret
Harte was offered the chair of English literature, but did not serve.
General John C. Fremont, the famous ‘‘Pathfinder,” explorer of
the great West, hero of the first clashes with the Mexican govern-
ment, and subsequently candidate for President of the United States,
was the first man who was elected to the presidency of the
University of California. He declined the honor, and during the
succeeding twenty years there were frequent changes in the headship
of the institution. But through all these mutations of personnel and
of administrative policy there was an undercurrent of energy and
advancement.

It is a pleasure to turn from the formal annals of the university
to touch on a distinctive passage in the history of this institution.
Two choice souls, the brothers Le Conte, Joseph and John, fill a
niche in the temple of memory to which all Californians turn with
affection. They came to the university in 1868, Joha then 50 years
of age and Joseph 46, and, as was written by Martin Kellogg,
“they brought hither their wealth of experience and reputation,
with a devotion to their work, an elevation of view, a success in
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

new achievement, which for twenty-two years of the university's
existence were among its chief titles to its good repute.”

Their pre-eminence in wisdom does not entirely account
for the esteem in which they are held at Berkeley. With their
wisdom they possessed the charm of well-bred gentlemen. Theirs were
natures enriched by sterling character and pure thoughts; with that
genuine simplicity of manner which affords a passport to the hearts
of good people the world over.

It would be difficult for one who had the privilege of seeing the
Le Contes in everyday life, and who has talked much concerning
them with the older members of the California alumni, to escape the
feelings of respect and regard which they inspired in all who knew
them. At this university, with passing years, these feelings of ven-
eration have deepened. On the campus of the University of Cali-
fornia there is no shrine more sacred than the simple tablet, under its
ancient oak, dedicated to John and Joseph Le Conte.

With the election of Dr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler as president,
in 1899, began the new life of the new University of California.
He was introduced to the students at the foot of the flagstaff on the
campus by Professor Bernard Moses, who reminded him that the
young men and women before him were the real University of Cali-
fornia.

Dr. Wheeler's response sounded the keynote of the university's
character from that moment to the present. He rejoiced that his
first appearance here had taken the form of an introduction to the
student body—the real living University of California.

“The only thing that is of interest to me in a university 1s men
and women,” he said. “I should like to talk to you about the
glorious future that I discern for this university. I should like to
talk to you about the work we have in hand, but in the few moments
that I have in this supreme opportunity, I want to speak to you
about the only thing that in my idea is fundamental in the life of a
university, and that is loyalty.

“A university is not a place where you come as empty buckets
to the well to be filled. People are going to pump things into you,
to be sure, but you are going to pour most of it out again. I believe
from my own experience, that after all, we must take to ourselves
the consolation that that educational material does us most good

 
 

UNIVERSITY IDEALS

which we forget most entirely. Those things which hover on the
superfices of the mind are oftener a stumbling block than a help. It is
what goes over into spinal marrow, what goes over into real life, that
makes us; and what we are likely to gain from our university life
1s not bits of knowledge, is not maxims and rules for getting this
and that; but after all it is this one thing that we talk so much
about and understand so imperfectly—it is character. As I grow
older I come less and less to respect men for their brilliancy and to
tie to men for their character. And what men are going to get out
of their university life is not what is pumped into the pail, but what
goes over into life. And it comes not only from the lecture room,
but from association with the best minds they find in the faculty,
alumni and student body—association with the whole life and char-
acter of the university. This university is a living thing. Blood
pulses through its veins. The spiritual life of the men who have
gone before us is in it. What you will get out of the university that
1s worth while, that will stand by you, is what you will get out of
association with it as a living thing.

“Therefore, I say we are not a mechanism to furnish people
with equipment; we are alive; we have a heart; we are a family.
And to that family life I charge you, students of the University of
California, be loyal. It is worth your while. It is your duty. You
cannot make a university out of minds and brains. In a university,
as elsewhere in the world, heart is more than head, love is more
than reason.

“This university shall be a family’s glorious old mother, by
whose hearth you shall love to sit down. Love her. It does a man
good to love noble things, to attach his life to noble allegiances. It
has done me good to hear your cheer ringing over the campus. And
so I say cheer for her; it will do your lungs good; love her; it
will do your heart and life good.”

In pursuance of the course thus clearly charted, Dr. Wheeler's
aim has been to emphasize the human element; the community
interest; the spirit of loyalty. The splendid success of the university
attests the wisdom of the program.
 

Ce

D JUNIOR

  

MEMORIAL CHAPEL, LELAND STANFOR
FRY

AN EDUCATIONAL MEMORIAL

STANFORD UNIVERSITY
A LABORATORY OF INDIVIDUAL EFFICIENCY
Leland Stanford and Jane Lathrop Stanford founded this

university in memory of their son, Leland Stanford, Junior, who
died in early youth. Having lost their only child they decided to
take to their hearts the children of California, and to give to these
young people that which they had planned to give to their son.

First in their minds was the thought that they would provide
the means for fitting young men and women for pre-eminent success
in their chosen vocations. They would make a new class of experts.
They would make the name of Stanford a hallmark of excellence; to
be recognized throughout the world as a badge of honor. Without
sacrificing the element of culture common to other universities they
would have students specialize on particular subjects, and to this
end skilled instructors were to be employed to lead in this direction.
They were content to lay this broad foundation, confiding to others
the task of elaborating the details of organization and administration.
Nevertheless they did not for an instant relax their personal efforts
in behalf of the edifice that was being reared. So long as they
lived they were assiduous in their solicitude for its welfare. They
sought its upbuilding by every means within their power. Having
dowered the object of their affection with their colossal estate, they,
in the prodigality of their love, gave to it the remainder of their
lives.

It was fortunate that the founders sought to house this university
mn a dignified way. Happily they chose a superior specimen of
the mission type of architecture, and such modifications as were
introduced have chastened and refined the outlines of the originals,
have added grace and lightness to the colonnades and arches. The
result is a triumph of the builder’s art. California is reputed to be
the only State in the Union which has a distinctive kind of archi-
tecture; to this, at its best, the buildings at Stanford conform.

In his personal relations Leland Stanford was a model of direct-
ness and plain dealing. That he was responsive to the gentler senti-
ments was exemplified by an incident which, trivial in itself, may be
said to typify the impulse which prompted the giving of the Stanford
millions to this university. It was when he was the owner of a
 

THE TERRACE, LELAND STANFORD JUNIOR UNIVERSITY
FOUNDERS AND BUILDERS

general merchandise store at Michigan Bar mining camp that Captain
E. G. Winnie was his most intimate companion and associate. With
the passing of time they became separated, Winnie going to try his
luck among the silver diggings of Nevada, Stanford to continue as a
successful merchant in Sacramento, as one of the builders and presi-
dent of a great overland railway, as governor of the State, and as
United States Senator. Though their fortunes differed their friend-
ship was unchanged. Winnie died, leaving property heavily involved.
Then Winnie's son died suddenly, as Stanford's son had died. One
who had known them both, believing that his mediation would be
welcomed, addressed to Senator Stanford a letter containing these
words:

“Leland Stanford Winnie is dead. He was the support of his
widowed mother. The late Captain Winnie, his father, often
told me that you and he were friends in those youthful days when
friends were brothers, and that he named his son for you. Mrs.
Winnie's home is mortgaged and subject to foreclosure. Will you
permit me to suggest that you take up the mortgage and grant your
friend’s widow a life lease of the place? She might be wounded
by the giving of more direct assistance, but probably would welcome
an offer like this.”

The response was immediate. Senator Stanford replied that
he would be glad to do this, and the plan was carried out, the debt
being paid in full. Mrs. Winnie passed her declining days on the
old homestead and was laid to rest beneath the trees that sheltered
the graves of her husband and son.

Dr. David Starr Jordan was chosen president at the opening
of Stanford University in 1891, and held that position until 1913,
when he was promoted to the office of chancellor, and Dr. John
C. Branner was appointed to the presidency, who is succeeded by
Dr. Ray Lyman Wilbur in the office of president. The molding of
the university was placed in the hands of Dr. Jordan, and the product
is due to his unflagging zeal. In his work he has been aided by
the founders and by the board of trustees, who supplemented the
president’s scholastic genius with their knowledge in practical man-
agement.

Stanford University has met the expectations of its founders
and supporters. It has supplied the opportunities for which it was
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

established, and on the eve of closing its quarter of a century of
service has signified its intention to occupy still further the field of
technical education and individual training. This announcement by
the university management is that the departments chosen for develop-
ment are to be pushed up, reinforced and energized to such an extent
that they shall be pre-eminent among such departments in the United
States. The men and women who enter here shall be chosen
for high character and superior natural ability. They must have
a definite aim; a laudable ambition to succeed. They must know
where they are going, and possess a clear idea of how to get there.
Experience at Stanford has shown that men who are compelled to
support themselves, in whole or in part, by personal effort, while
doing their college work, are the most likely to excel, and such can-
didates, other things being satisfactory, will be given precedence.

To promote the development of the academic and scientific
courses it is proposed to accumulate a library of a million volumes,
and the present library is being added to at the rate of a thousand
volumes a month, the jewel fund, realized by the sale of Mrs. Stan-
ford’s jewels, being devoted to this object.

In engineering Stanford offers a five-year curriculum, and in
law a six-year course, leading to the degree of juris doctor. In

these courses no person may be accepted as a candidate for final

graduation who has not previously earned the degree of bachelor
of arts.

In medicine there is a seven-year course, to include service in
laboratories and hospitals. Lane Hospital is part of the equipment
of Stanford’s medical department, as is also Cooper Medical Col-
lege, both in San: Francisco. These two establishments afford unsur-
passed facilities for specializing in all departments of medicine and
surgery. Lhe poor are welcomed, and are given the best treatment
that modern skill can command, free of charge.

Throughout Stanford University the spirit of co-operation is
dominant. It is the ruling passion. In every department the per-
scnal touch between instructor and student is maintained in a way
that makes for proficiency in the classroom and efficiency in life
work after school days are ended.
A STORY OF SLIGHTED LOVE

“Soon as the evening shades prevail,

The moon takes up the wondrous tale,

And nightly to the listening earth

Repeats the story of her birth;

Whilst all the stars that round her burn,

And dll the planets in their turn,

Confirm the tidings as they roll,

And spread the truth from pole to pole.”

Addison.

CHAPTER XI.

THE OBSERVATORIES

07 Cm] N the summit of Mount Hamilton, near San Jose, is
ig x the world-renowned Lick Observatory which was
founded by the eccentric Californian millionaire,

) 9
) James Lick.
Dd Twenty-five comets and thirteen hundred double

stars have been discovered with the aid of this great
telescope.

An affair of the heart so profoundly influenced the whole life
of James Lick, that it may be said the present Lick Observatory
owes its existence to slighted love.

When Lick was young and penniless, he found temporary
employment with a miller named Joshua Negus, near Hanover,
Pennsylvania. Lick had been duly apprenticed by his practical
German parents to a piano and organ maker at Hanover, and was
now a good journeyman. But in 1819 the demand for pianos and
organs was not so extensive as it has since become, and an ambitious
journeyman, aged 23, was not above turning his hand to anything
that came his way. Miller Negus was a rich man, as measured by
the rural standards of 1819, which is to say—he was worth several
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

thousand dollars. He was fully conscious of his wealth and position
as the “leading miller of the country.” He was particularly proud
of his mill, though nowadays the old-fashioned stone burrs and rude
bolter with which it was equipped would be regarded as curiosities
rather than as serviceable flour manufacturing machinery.

In young Lick’s estimation, the miller’s greatest treasure was his
plump, rosy-cheeked, high-spirited daughter, Ada, his only child,
and therefore destined one day to inherit the mill. James Lick laid
violent siege to the heart of the heiress, and, to his joy, found his
love returned. With all the assurance of youth he sought the miller
and asked his daughter's hand in marriage, but the lover's dream of
happiness was shattered with more of vehemence than elegance, in
other words, the rich Negus was furious at Lick’s presumption.

“What?” he roared, “you want to marry my Ada, you beggar?
You dare to love my daughter? What have you got to support a
wife on? Look at this mill! Have you got one like it?”

“No, I haven't, you old turkey-cock, but I'll build one some day
that'll make this rattletrap look like a pigsty.” With this threat,
young Lick abruptly left the mill without even stopping to say good-
by to his sweetheart. His pride had received a wound from which
it was destined never to recover. Up to that time he had not enter-
tained the high regard for wealth which the miller seemed to have,
but now he had resolved to make money with all the speed he could.
He burned with a consuming desire for great riches, so that he
might make the purse-proud miller suffer the pangs of envy at his
prosperity and of remorse for having, by his own act, thrown away
the opportunity to share it.

Going direct to Hanover, he packed his scanty belongings and
set out for Baltimore, then the commercial rival of New York and
Philadelphia, to seek his fortune. Here he followed his trade of
piano and organ maker for a time, but not finding a suitable opening
for business, he went in 1821 to Buenos Ayres. Here he made
better progress. At the end of ten years he returned to New York
with forty thousand dollars worth of hides and furs, which he was
able to sell to good advantage.

Lick then went back to Buenos Ayres and started a piano
business. For fifteen years he carried this trade on in various parts
of South America, but merely held his own.
 

LICK’S FOLLY

In 1847 he came to San Francisco, then a village of about a
thousand inhabitants, his total capital being thirty-five thousand
dollars. He was shrewd enough to see that the village was destined
one day to become a city, so he invested the greater part of his
capital in townsite property at extremely low prices; the rest of his
money was Invested in lands in the Santa Clara Valley. Lick had
never forgotten his first love, and had never married. As he grew
older his longing for wealth and the vengeance he thought it would
place in his power developed into a consuming avarice; he had
brooded so long over the affront he had received at the hands of
Miller Negus, more than a quarter nf a century before, that his
better qualities were so warped and blighted that he made few
friends.

In California in the early days it was not considered good form
to evince too much curiosity regarding a neighbor’s affairs, but even
hustling pioneers could not help wondering what in the world James
Lick did, who lived in an old shanty near San Jose.

Lick gave no explanations, but hunted up the most skilful cabi-
net-makers he could find on the Coast; his long experience in piano-
making enabled him to select the finest lumber and the best workmen.
Building material and machinery were delivered at the old mill in
due time; it was then torn down and a new structure was begun in
its place. The expert cabinet-makers now became very busy, and
the piles of mahogany diminished while San Jose’s curiosity increased.

Not until the building was finished was any one but the workmen
permitted to get a glimpse of the interior. When at last it was
thrown open to the public a mill was disclosed which, while it lasted,
was one of the wonders of California. It was a flour-mill complete
in every detail, equipped with the very latest and best machinery and
appliances known to the milling industry of that day; all the interior
wood-work consisted of beautiful specimens of mahogany exquisitely
polished; the spouts and elevators were finished with all the elegance
of fine furniture; the steel of the machinery was burnished until it
shone like silver; the mahogany casings of the millstones were girt
with bands of brass glowing with all the effulgence that polishing
could impart. “‘Lick’s Folly,” as it was called, had cost the builder
two hundred thousand dollars; the day it was thrown open the best
 

RI tats

THE LICK OBSERVATORY, MOUNT HAMILTON

   
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photographer in San Francisco arrived with his camera and made
many negatives of the mahogany mill from every possible point of
view,—within and without. In due time Wells Fargo & Company's
messenger took a bulky package away from San Jose, addressed to
Joshua Negus, Hanover, Pennsylvania. The package contained
photographs bearing inscriptions which set forth that they were views
of a flour-mill owned by James Lick of San Jose, California, for-
merly of Hanover. James Lick’s vengeance was complete! The
man who had refused him his daughter’s hand in marriage would
now see that he had, indeed, built a mill compared with which
Negus’ modest affair might well be called a ‘“pigstie.”” Lick’s
unique revenge was a source of vast satisfaction to him; he spent a
great deal of time gloating over it. Having exhausted the resources
of his craftsmanship in beautifying the interior, he next set about
adorning the grounds around the mill.

For nineteen years, Lick glutted his revenge; then, being at last
satiated, he gave the mill to the Paine Memorial Society of Boston,
being a great admirer of Tom Paine’s writings; the results were
disappointing, for the palatial mill which had cost two hundred
thousand dollars to build was considered worth only eighteen thou-
sand dollars for practical purposes—soon after it was sold the mill
burned down.

Having obtained the chief object of his life, James Lick in his
old age conceived two new ambitions. The wonderful growth of
San Francisco had given the property, which cost him only a few
thousand dollars, a value of millions. His earlier years had been so
fully occupied in the making of money that he had never learned
how to enjoy himself; his frugal habits and lonely life in alien lands
had developed at last into parsimony and selfishness so pronounced
that he was shunned and disliked. Lick felt this keenly; he wanted
to be remembered as a very different sort of man from what he knew
he was popularly considered to be, and he wanted the money he had
accumulated to do all the good it was capable of doing. To accom-
plish the latter object, he felt he would have to distribute it while he
lived; if he did this well he knew he would gain his other object
also. The beginning of his life work was made one month after the
mahogany mill was disposed of—when he was seventy-seven years
of age. Without giving any previous intimation of his intention. he

A MUNIFICENT GIFT J
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

gave the California Academy of Sciences a choice site for a home in
San Francisco; when the president of the Academy called to express
the thanks of the society, Lick unfolded his other plans.

While living in Peru, Lick had formed a friendship with a
priest, who had interested him in astronomy, so he talked with
President Davidson as to the advisability of building a great tele-
scope that could be used to advance that science.

A year later, the aged millionaire had fully made up his mind
how to distribute his money. On July the 16th, 1874, he executed
a Deed of Trust by which he conveyed more than three million
dollars to be used for a long list of objects.

His first and dearest wish was that his money should pay for a
telescope which, in the language of the Deed of Trust, should be
“superior to and more powerful than any telescope yet made, with
all the machinery appertaining thereto, and appropriately connected
therewith”; this would naturally include a suitable observatory; for
this purpose he set aside seven hundred thousand dollars. Other
gifts, some of them considerably larger in amount, were devoted to
public and charitable purposes. There were small gifts for relatives
and to build monuments for his parents and sister; for himself he
kept only enough to supply his modest wants for his few remaining
days.

Having disposed of his fortune to his satisfaction, James Lick
had but one more thing to live for, and that was to make sure that a
suitable site for his observatory was chosen; to this object he gave all
the personal attention his waning energies would permit. One of the
sites suggested was a mountain North of San Francisco; Lick was
ill, but he could not rest until he had examined the mountain himself,
so he was placed in a cot and taken to a train which brought him to
the station nearest the mountain; then his cot was loaded in a wagon
and the start for the summit was made. At the first steep rise Lick
slipped off his cot and over the tail-gate into the dusty road. He
was not physically hurt, but his feelings were deeply wounded, as he
vowed that a mountain that treated him so, should never be crowned
with his observatory, so he ordered the driver to turn around and
go home!

At last, after very careful examinations and test of atmospheric
conditions by scientific men, Mount Hamilton, about seventy-five

EE
 

 

A MOUNTAIN MAUSOLEUM

miles Southeast of San Francisco, and within sight of his mahogany
mill, was chosen.

Congress gave two thousand and thirty acres of land, the legis-
lature of California three hundred and twenty acres, and R. F.
Morrow gave forty acres for the observatory site, while Santa Clara
County built a fine road to the summit. :

Lick did not live to see the telescope, for he died on October 1,
1876; his body, after lying in state in Pioneer Hall, was followed
to the grave by a great procession of State and City officials, the
faculty and students of the University of California, and members
of the societies which had been benefited by his munificence. Public
opinion of James Lick had already changed!

The telescope was not completed until ten years later, for the
casting of the object glass was accomplished only after many fail-
ures—each attempt consuming months of work. When the telescope
was at last ready to be placed in position, Lick’s body was taken
from its temporary resting place, and with solemn ceremonies depos-
ited in a vault built for it in the stone foundation upon which the
steel support of the telescope was to rest.

Sir Edwin Arnold, who in 1892 made ‘““A personal pilgrimage
to do homage to the memory of James Lick,” says:

“With my hand upon the colossal tube, lightly managing it as
if it were an opera-glass, and my gaze wandering around the splen-
didly equipped interior, full of all needful astronomical resources,
and built to stand a thousand storms, I think with admiration of its
dead founder, and ask to see his tomb. It is placed immediately
beneath the big telescope, which ascends and descends directly over
the sarcophagus wherein repose the mortal relics of this remarkable
man, a marble chest, bearing the inscription, ‘Here lies the body of
James Lick.’ ”

“Truly James Lick sleeps gloriously under the basis of his big
glass! Four thousand feet nearer heaven than any of his dead fellow
citizens, he is buried more grandly than any king or queen, and has
a finer monument than the pyramids furnished to Cheops and
Cephrenes.”

THE LOWE OBSERVATORY.

The Observatory is situated on Echo Mountain, a shoulder of

Mount Lowe, and was founded in 1894 by Professor Thaddeus
 

ON THE WAY TO MOUNT LOWE OBSERVATORY

 
 

ASTRONOMICAL WONDERS

S. C. Lowe, a noted scientist. It is owned and maintained by the
Pacific Electric Railway of Los Angeles, and is made one of the
features of the Mount Lowe trip. On Saturday, Sunday and holi-
day evenings free popular lectures are delivered, and all visitors are
given an opporiunity to look through the great telescope.

~ On these evenings the World's Fair Searchlight, of three million
candle power, is also exhibited, and the railway service is such that
the visitors can either return to Los Angeles the same evening, or
remain over night at the Alpine Tavern.

The Observatory is situated at an altitude of 3,005 feet, and the
site is an excellent one for astronomical work. The equipment
includes an equatorial telescope, with 16 inch object glass, a very
fine spectroscope, and other instruments. Serius in the great telescope
looks like a white hot sun, tinged with violet and flashing like a
hundred Koh-I-Noors; Aldebaran glows with orange-colored light,
and every possible color is seen in the stellar hosts as they pass before
the great object glass. The Pleiades display something more than
one thousand stars, while the stupendous Nebule, in Andromeda and
Orion, shine with unwonted brilliancy. The rotation of the earth—
always to be seen in the telescope—is most impressive in the absolute
solitude of a mountain night.

THE CHABOT OBSERVATORY.

A prominent feature of Oakland's Educational Department is
the Chabot Observatory; it is, I think, the only public school
department in the United States that is in possession of a well-
equipped astronomical observatory. It was founded by a public-
spirited citizen of Oakland, the late Anthony Chabot, and presented
to the Board of Education in trust for the City of Oakland. At
the close of the Exposition a 20-inch Equatorial Telescope will be
installed in the Chabot Observatory’s new home on Leona Heights,
Oakland. Mr. Brashear says this 20-inch Jena glass is equal or
nearly so in light grasp to the 26-inch refractor in the Naval
Observatory, Washington. Assuming it is equal to any 24-inch, it
is exceeded by only four refractors in the United States. The new
site on Leona Heights has an elevation of 340 feet and is twelve
acres in extent. A great feature of the new Chabot telescope is the
extraordinarily crystalline clearness of its objective—the soul of the
instrument.
  
     
 
      
  
  
    
   
   
 

 

 

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MAP OF CALIFORNIA SHOWING ITS 58 COUNTIES AND LOCATION OF SOME OF THE
PRINCIPAL MINERAL SPRINGS

The Springs of Lake County are all grouped within a short radius of Clear
Lake—about ninety miles north of San Francisco.

EE
 

NORTH AND SOUTH OF SAN FRANCISCO

“Queen Cily of the Golden Gates
With crown of courage blessed,
Thy tale of valor he relates
Whoe’er has been thy guest;
In story and in song thy name
Will ever live, while all proclaim
Thee ‘Empress of the West!’ ”’
Alice M. Fay.

CHAPTER XII
OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST

HE chief places of interest in California are easily
reached by railway or by excellent automobile
roads. Starting from San Francisco and the bay
cities, I have outlined a trip that runs southward
along the mission-lined Camino Real of the old
Padres to San Diego and returns north through
the rich San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys to Mt. Shasta. The
tour thus mapped out makes no pretense at including all the
points of interest in California, nor even all those most important;
such a task would require a much larger volume than this. I have
simply made mention of some of the principal centers of interest
along the direct line of travel, from any of which one can make
many side-trips to nearby historic points.

 

SAN FRANCISCO.

The metropolis of California, is the largest city on the conti-
nent west of the Mississippi. It lies at the northern end of
the peninsular, which reaches for thirty miles between the
Pacific Ocean and the Bay of San Francisco. It is the principal
seaport on the Pacific Coast, owing its importance commercially
to its strategic position, unexcelled harbor facilities, and rich tribu-
tary region. In 1910 San Francisco was the eleventh city in size
in the United States, then having a population of 416912; now it
Golden Gate

 

 

 

Mt. Tamalpais Telegraph Hill

   

 

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SAN FRANCISCO BAY AND DOCKS Ferry Building
* THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE

is nearly 600.000. The city ranks fifth among the ports of the
United States in imports; their value in 1912 was $62,744,188.
The area of the city and county of San Francisco is 461 square
miles. There are thirty-two parks and squares, and 110 public
schools and twenty-six private schools. The climate of San Fran-
cisco is decidedly bracing; it is very often quite cold in the summer,
but never excessively cold in winter. The city has more hours of
sunshine yearly than Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago,
Pittsburg or St. Louis, while the latitude is that of Granada,
Palermo, and Athens. Snow has fallen but six times in the city’s
history.

The history of San Francisco begins with 1769, when the
expedition of Gaspar de Portola, Governor of California, discovered
San Francisco Bay and camped near the site of the present city.
Most of the peninsular was then covered with brush and drifting
sand. The name first given to this settlement was Yerba Buena, the
Spanish for “good herb,” but in 1847 the name San Francisco was
substituted. The oldest and most thickly settled part of San Fran-
cisco faces the bay, though of recent years the city has been
expanding to the west and south. The district immediately at the
edge of the Golden Gate is occupied by the Presidio Military Res-
ervation. There are a number of districts in the city which are more
or less arbitrary in their boundaries, yet which are well recognized
locally. The eastern part of the city is divided into two distinct
portions, known as north of Market and south of Market street.

The Mission district is the western part of the latter division,
extending beyond the present end of Market street. It received its
name because this territory was once part of the property of the
Mission Delores. The Potrero was formerly the cattle farm of
the Mission Dolores, as signified by its Spanish name. The Western
Addition lies between Larkin street and Golden Gate Park. The
Richmond district lies to the north of the Park, and the Sunset
district to the south of it. San Francisco is essentially a maritime
city, and by its situation is especially adapted to carrying on an
extensive commerce.

The Bay of San Francisco is one of the largest land-locked
harbors in the world. On its shores are the cities of San Fran-

cisco, Oakland, Emeryville, Berkeley, Albany, Alameda, Rich-
y

BUILDING

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STREET

 
AWAKENING OF THE ORIENT

mond, Vallejo, Sausalito, besides many smaller communities. The
bay is almost seventy miles long and from four to ten miles wide.
The area is almost 450 square miles, and the length of shore line
is 231 miles. The magnitude of the harbor facilities may be judged
by the fact that all the navies and merchant ships of the world could
easily find anchorage in the bay. The upper, or eastern part of San
Francisco Bay is divided into two smaller bodies of water, called
San Pablo Bay and Suisun Bay. Into the latter flow the combined
waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. The entrance
to San Francisco Bay is the Golden Gate. It is one mile across
at its narrowest part, lying to the north of San Francisco, between
Fort Point and Lime Point. Extending along the bay shore north
and south from the Ferry Building at the foot of Market street are
the docks and waterfront. San Francisco’s commerce is expanding
rapidly and the awakening of the Orient and the opening of the
Panama Canal will vastly increase the city’s maritime importance.

San Francisco is placed at the head of the cities of the State
in population with a total of 525,000, an increase in the five
years since the last census of about 106,000.

Los Angeles is running a close second, according to the report.
The southern city is credited with a population, 6t 520,000, a
gain of 200,000 in the half decade.

Oakland is the third city of the State with 215,000; San
Diego fourth with 87,000 and Sacramento fifth with 75,000;
Berkeley is given sixth place with 55,000.

San Francisco is by far the richest city in the State with a
total assessment roll of $647,207,000. Los Angeles has $508,-
247,000.

The tax rate in San Francisco is $2.25, an increase of $.05
over last year, but its rate for bonds is only $.5160 against a
Los Angeles rate of $.60. Practically every large city shows an
increase in its tax rate, ranging from | cent for Berkeley to 18
cents for Oakland.

Market street is the principal business thoroughfare of San Fran-
cisco, extending in a gradual ascent from the Ferry Building almost
to the Twin Peaks. At the junction of Bush and Battery streets
with Market, opposite First street, is the Donahue fountain. This
is one of the finest examples of plastic art in the city. The statuary
flower markets are at the intersection of Geary and Market streets,
extending to Kearny street. At this corner is Lotta’s fountain,
11 which was presented to the municipality in 1876 by the actress,
Lotta Crabtree, one of San Francisco's early-day favorites. Madame
Teirazzini sang at Lotta’s fountain on Christmas eve, 1910, to a Re
crowd of 100,000 people. At the corner of Fifth and Mission :
streets is the United States mint, erected in 1874. It is the second
11] largest in the country, being exceeded in size only by the Phila-
{4 delphia mint. In addition to minting money for the United States,
the coin for the Philippine Islands is produced here, as well as that
of minor American Republics. They have also a large and inter-
y esting exhibit of ancient coins in the office. The oldest church in
the city is the Mission Dolores—San Francisco de Asis. It is now
in the heart of the city at Sixteenth and Dolores streets. This was
the sixth mission founded by the Franciscans in California. It was
formally dedicated October 9, 1776, by Father Palou. The mis-
sion established originally consisted of a number of adobe structures,
=3 with tiled roofs. At present only the church is standing. The
cornerstone was laid and the church dedicated in 1782. The archi-
tecture is somewhat different from that of the majority of missions,
being a combination of the Moorish, Mission and Corinthian styles.
The facade is adorned with four massive pillars, arched doorway,
with four niches above, in which hang the bells; the roof is tiled.
The interior is practically unchanged, although the main altar is
modern. The two side altars are decorated with groups of saints
and the empty niches in the walls were formerly occupied by images.
The altar decorations were imported from Spain and Mexico. The
roof timbers are held together as of old by rawhide thongs, which
were used in place of nails. The walls at the end of the chapel,
at the back of the main altar, are elaborately carved and painted

 

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© of the busiest corners of the city is at the intersection of Kearny, (ef
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A COSMOPOLITAN CITY

in dull red and gold. All this is the work of the Indian converts. |

The little graveyard at the side of the church is the resting place
of over 2000 bodies. Only a few of the graves are marked. The
most notable monument is that of Don Luis Antonio Arguello, the
first Governor of California (1822-1825). The Mission district
still retains a certain individuality.

Above the Mission district rise the Twin Peaks. These hills
are the highest in the city, and from here there is a magnificent view
over the city, bay and surrounding country. A tunnel is now being
cut through Twin Peaks, extending this thoroughfare to the ocean.

The Chinese quarter of San Francisco is the district that is
bounded by Dupont, Stockton, California and Pacific streets, and
the Chinese population is close on 15,000. It is the largest Chinese
population in America. Many of the buildings are typically Chinese
in architecture. Before the fire of 1906 this was not the case, but
the destruction of the old structures enabled the owners to erect new
ones of a more Oriental design. On the southern border of China-
town is Portsmouth Square. It was once the center of the city life
and known as the Plaza, and is one of the historic spots of San
Francisco.

It was a favorite haunt of Robert Louis Stevenson when a resi-
dent of San Francisco in 1879. In the park is an artistic monument
to Stevenson, unveiled in 1897; surmounted by a golden gal-
leon, the ‘“‘Hispaniola” of “Treasure Island.” The inscription
is a quotation from Stevenson's ‘‘Christmas Sermons,” beginning
“To be honest, to be kind.” Portsmouth Square contained the first
Custom House in San Francisco, and in the “days of gold’ an hotel
was built on the square at a cost of $30,000, which rented for
$15,000 a month. Here the Vigilantes of the early days met to
punish law-breakers. North of Portsmouth Square is the “Latin
Quarter,” generally known as “‘Little Italy.” Telegraph Hill rises
in the midst of this section, and from it there is a fine view of the
city, bay and surrounding country. The hill received its name from
the flag-telegraph station established on its top, which in early days
informed the city below of the entrance of ships into the Golden
Gate.

West of Telegraph Hill is Russian Hill, which receives its

name from the Russian cemetery on its upper slopes in the days

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SHORES OF THE BLUE PACIFIC AT SAN FRANCISCO
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OLD LANDMARKS OF SAN FRANCISCO

before the American occupation. Russian Hill has long been dis-
tinguished by the presence of a colony of artists and literary work-
ers. The houses on the summit were saved by strenuous efforts from
the fire of 1906. Southwest of Telegraph Hill and southeast of
Russian Hill is Nob Hill. It is reached by three lines of cable-
driven cars running on Powell, Sacramento and California streets.
The cable-car is a San Francisco invention, and is of great value
in making accessible the city’s many hills. The early millionaires
of the Comstock mines and the Central Pacific railroad built their
residences on Nob Hill. Today the Fairmont Hotel occupies an
entire block, and being so situated is a notable landmark of the
city. The Pacific-Union Club occupies the old Flood residence,
opposite the Fairmont Hotel, while opposite to the latter on Powell
street 1s the University Club.

Another famous hill is Rincon Hill, south of Market and east
of Third street. In the early days this was the fashionable residence
district of the city, but its glory began to wane before 1870. The
homes of Generals Sherman and Halleck were built in 1849 on
Rincon Hill. Governor Leland Stanford also had a mansion here.
Gertrude Atherton was born on Rincon Hill, and in the early days
Bret Harte and Mark Twain were entertained there.

The public parks of San Francisco number in all thirty-two.
They are scattered throughout the city, and most of them form
attractive beauty-spots in the business and residential districts. Golden
Gate Park consists of 1013 acres, and most of it is in a high state
of cultivation, with artificial lakes and lakelets scattered over its sur-
face. In 1870, when the reclamation of this area was commenced,
it was a desolate expanse of sand-hills, as indeed was once almost
the entire peninsula of San Francisco. The Park has seventeen
miles of improved driveways, bordered by trees and shrubs brought
from all parts of the world, and with regard to area it is the third
largest in the world.
 

CITY HALL, OAKLAND
THE CITY OF THE OAKS

OAKLAND

Oakland, the third city of California and the county seat of
Alameda County, is reached from San Francisco (five miles distant)
by the ferry systems of the Key Route and the Southern Pacific
Company. The Western Pacific Railway maintains a ferry for its
transcontinental passengers between Oakland and San Francisco; the
Creek Route operates a ferry service from San Francisco to the foot
of Broadway, Oakland, by which automobiles are transported across
the bay.

Oakland’s population is estimated to be 250,000. The census
of 1910 gave the city a population of 150,174, an increase of more
than 124 per cent over that of the previous census, when it was
66,000. Oakland has an area of approximately 56 square miles,
including 12 square miles of tidal flats, submerged a few feet be-
neath the waters of the bay; these tide-lands are being filled in to
provide factory sites and terminals for railways and ships. The
municipal government has the ownership and complete control over
the water-front and harbor, Oakland being one of the first cities in
the country to assume this privilege. The Inner Harbor—the
Estuary of San Antonio—is south of the city, between Oakland and
Alameda. Along both sides there are extensive wharves and numer-
ous factories.

The Oakland Mole, the main terminal of the Southern Pacific
Railway, Southern Pacific Long Wharf, Western Pacific Pier and
Key Route Pier extend far out into the bay. The city of Oakland
has voted $2,503,000 for harbor improvements, which will greatly
facilitate the shipping; even at the present time, eleven ocean steam-
ship lines regularly utilize the Oakland docks. The factories of
Oakland are mainly along the Estuary and bay shore.

The California Cotton Mills at Oakland—established in
1883— consume practically the entire crop of California cotton. The
public buildings of Oakland are mostly modern structures. The
new City Hall is the tallest building on the Pacific Coast; the ball
on the top of the dome is 377 feet above the street; from the
cupola a beautiful panorama of the city and the entire bay region is
obtained. It is surrounded by the city plaza, enriched with giant
magnolias and other trees and shrubs. The retail business section,
of which Broadway is the centre, contains many large and attractive
     

LAKE MERRITT, iN THE HEART OF OAKLAND
 

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OAKLANDS PARKS AND LAKES

office buildings. The city’s great tourist hotel, the Hotel Oak-
land, erected at a cost of nearly two million dollars, is one of the
finest on the Pacific Coast and occupies an entire block. There
are forty-five public schools in Oakland, besides a large number
of private educational institutions and three high schools. St.
Mary’s College is a prominent Roman Catholic school for young
men, giving a regular collegiate course. Mills College occupies
a spacious park that fronts on Fifty-ninth avenue; this is the lead-
ing college for young women, ranking with the best institutions of

the kind in the United States.

Park improvement is a prominent feature in Oakland's civic
program; there are twenty-eight parks, and others in course of
construction. Extensive improvement work has been done around
Lake Merritt, a natural water park of 170 acres in extent. Lake
Merritt's waters are salt; in fact, the lake is an arm of the sea,
or rather of the bay, though cut off from it by a broad causeway
and movable dam. Near Lake Merritt is the Municipal Audi-
torium, which has just been completed at a cost of over $500,000.
It is capable of seating 13,000 persons. Situated in a sheltered
canyon in the foothills on the outskirts of Oakland is Piedmont
Park. In this park, which is a private one, are some sulphur
springs and a Japanese garden. The Piedmont Art Gallery con-
tains a collection of over eight hundred canvasses of distinction and
it ranks as the most noteworthy art gallery west of Chicago. In
the eucalyptus amphitheatre band concerts are held every Sunday.
The little city of Piedmont of 2,500 inhabitants, is an incorpo-
rated municipality almost entirely surrounded by the city of Oak-
land; it is unique in having no shops or stores of any kind, its area
being entirely devoted to residential purposes.

Three lines of rail connect Oakland and San Francisco with
San Jose, fifty miles to the south. The western line, which is
practically suburban to San Francisco the entire distance, passes
through such well-known places as San Mateo, Redwood City,
Palo Alto (Stanford University), and Santa Clara. The east-
side lines traverse the ‘‘blossom highway,” so called on account of
the miles of cherry, peach, apricot, almond and prune orchards
through which they pass.
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THE GARDEN CITY

SAN JOSE

San Jose is one of the historic cities of California, although
not a mission town. It was founded on November 29, 1777, and was
the first pueblo to be established in Alta California. It is a fact of
historical interest that Don Gaspar de Portola and his men, march-
ing up from the south, passed and looked down upon the site of
San Jose four years before the Boston Tea Party. San Jose is the
largest city of the Santa Clara Valley, and is the county seat. At
the 1910 census the population credited was 28,000; now probably
60,000.

Among the industries of interest are the large fruit canneries
and dried fruit packing house. Santa Clara Valley being pre-
eminently the prune growing district of California. The brick
factories are among the most extensive in the West. There is a
great wealth of flowers, trees and shrubs, mainly semi-tropical,
scattered throughout the twenty square miles of the city’s area.
San Jose is particularly noted for its roses, of which there are over
165 varieties growing in the city’s gardens. These gardens,
together with the broad avenues and shady walks, have given to
San Jose the name of the “Garden City.” Seven miles to the
east of San Jose is a city park called Alum Rock. It covers an
area of 1000 acres of mountain and cafion. The Alum Rock
Canon, through which flows the Penitencia creek, is situated between
the mountains which rise to the north to the height of 2114 feet
above sea-level, and to the south to 1889 feet. The creek is
lined with sycamore, madrona, laurel and oak trees. There are
sixteen mineral springs in the cafiyon. Some are hot and some
are cold, differing with regard to their mineral ingredients, the
chief being sulphur, iron, soda, magnesia and a doublt sulphate
of potassium and aluminum. The city has made many improve-
ments in Alum Rock Park the last year or two, but as yet the
springs are not adapted to receive patients who require scientific
medical treatment.

San. Jose is the point of departure for Mount Hamilton and the
Lick Observatory, which is thirteen miles east as the crow flies, but
twenty-seven by road.

Leaving San Jose, southbound, the choice of two routes is
open to us. One is through the southern end of the fertile Santa
THE CITY OF THE HOLY CROSS

Clara Valley, past orchards and seed farms, where one may see
a hundred acres of sweet peas in blossom, and through the apple
district of the Pajaro Valley, to the northern point of Monterey
Bay. The other route takes us over the swelling mesa lands, cov-
ered with orchards, and steadily climbs a spur of the Coast Range,
through pine forests, passing many a delightful summer resort on
the way. Crossing the summit of the ridge the descent is made
with many a turn, until the train pauses beneath the shade of the
Big Tree Grove (sequoia sempervirens). Six miles further and
the sweet tang of the pines gives way to the salt breath of the sea.

SANTA CRUZ

Santa Cruz is an old mission town, but the mission, founded
in 1791, has disappeared. A memorial arch stands on its former
site in front of the present Catholic Church; the myrtle-covered
burying ground of the mission is now the one remaining relic of the
past. The town is picturesquely situated at the upper end of
Monterey Bay, and has more of an English aspect about it than
any other watering place in California. It has a population of over
12,000. The city possesses Laveaga Park, a fine recreation ground
on the headlands of 565 acres, as well as a number of smaller
parks and plazas.

The greatest attraction in Santa Cruz is the seashore. The
beach is of smooth, white sand, firmly packed, which provides
excellent surf bathing at all seasons of the year. A Casino costing
nearly a million dollars, a bathing pavilion and a large pleasure pier
offers many forms of amusement. In conjunction with the Casino is
an excellent tourist hotel called the Casa Del Rey. Monterey Bay
is particularly famed for its king salmon fishing, but many barra-
cuda, yellowtail, smelt, sea bass, bonita, sole, flounder, king fish,
halibut, rock cod, pompano, and some tuna are caught. Practically
every kind of fish native to California’s shores are found in the
waters of the bay. The eighteen-hole golf links are among the
best on the Pacific Coast.

A swing around the Bay of Monterey, or an hour’s ride, brings
us to the old capital of the State.

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CALIFORNIA’S FIRST CAPITAL.

MONTEREY.

Monterey is one of the most interesting places in California.
The city occupies an attractive position on the shore of the Bay of
Monterey. Its trade by sea is already extensive, more than 500,-
000 tons of freight being shipped annually. In 1900 the popula-
tion was 1749; there are now about 10,000 people within the
city and its suburbs.

Monterey is interesting chiefly because of its historic associa-
tions and many old landmarks. Monterey was the capital of
California from 1770 until 1849. The history of this region
begins with 1602, when Sebastian Vizcaino dropped anchor in
the bay on December 16th, naming it after his patron, the Count
de Monterey, Viceroy of Mexico. In 1606 Philip III, King of
Spain, ordered Monterey to be occupied, and provision made there
to succor and refit ships sailing to and from the Philippines, but his
orders were not carried out, and the city was not founded until over
a century and a half later. In 1770 Don Gaspar de Portola and
Father Junipero Serra arrived and began the settlement, the Gov-
ernor establishing his residence there. Monterey was visited by
Vancouver in 1792, and in 1796 the first American ship touched at
the port. When the province of California was declared a part of
Mexico in 1822, Monterey continued the capital as well as after
the revolution of 1836, when the attempt of the Californians to
become independent of Mexico ended in compromise. In 1846 the
town was captured by the Americans and the flag raised over the
Custom House. Under the American regime, Monterey held for a
short time its political eminence. On September 1, 1849, the first
constitutional convention was held in Colton Hall, and the founda-
tion laid for the entrance of California into the Union.

Though bereft of its former position as the seat of government,
Monterey has always attracted visitors. Many famous men have been
residents of the city and its vicinity. Among those whose names are
associated with this region are Robert Louis Stevenson, Bret Harte,
Mark Twain, Joaquin Miller, Ambrose Bierce, Commodore Stock-
ton, General Fremont and General Sherman. The old adobe opera
house, the first theater in the State, was built in 1847. Jenny
- Lind sang here in the early days. The son and daughter of the
Swedish Nightingale recently came all the way from England to pay
their devotion at this shrine. The little building which served as the
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THE FAMOUS GARDENS AT DEL MONTE
THE GARDENS OF DEL MONTE

first United States postoffice in California is nearby. The ship
Natalie that bore the First Napoleon to Elba was wrecked in
Monterey Bay. The skeleton of the vessel may be seen at low tide
not far from the shore. Quite close to the town of Monterey is
the Hotel Del Monte, one of the famous resorts on the Pacific
Coast. The building is of Swiss architecture, and contains over
500 rooms. The grounds of the hotel form a beautiful park, and
the 125 acres of lawns and flower beds are the result of more than
a quarter of a century of landscape gardening. The grounds con-
tain 1366 different varieties of plant life. There are seventy-eight
kinds of coniferous trees, 210 of evergreen trees and shrubs, 114
of deciduous trees, 285 of herbaceous plants and ninety varieties of
roses. In the Arizona garden there are sixty-three kinds of cactus,
besides other desert plants. Near the rose garden is a replica of
the famous maze at Hampton Court, England. The Del Monte
golf course is an eighteen-hole one. It is here that the championship
games of the Pacific Coast are contested. The art gallery is also
another feature at Del Monte, where the works of leading Cali-
fornia painters, sculptors, etchers and artist-photographers are dis-
played. The scenic boulevards about Del Monte and Monterey
are very attractive, especially the Forty-five-Mile Drive, which begins
and ends at Del Monte.

There is a charm about this new-old city on Monterey Bay
which fascinates and holds the visitor,—but we must journey on.
Further south we pass Mission San Miguel (just below the railway
station) and Paso Robles whose springs are described in another
chapter. Fifty miles further we climb a mountain range and drop
down into the quaint little town of San Luis Obispo (St. Louis
the Bishop) with its old Mission nestling at the foot of a hill
whose peak appropriately resembles a bishop’s mitre.

Traveling through the wooded Gaviota Pass we come out on
the seashore and reach Point Concepcion. From this headland, for
nearly a hundred miles, we run along the coast, so close to the
water that one could toss a pebble from the car into the curling
breakers of the Pacific. It is a glorious ride, worthy of the
State of a Thousand Wonders, and a fitting approach to the
beautiful mission city.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

SANTA BARBARA.

Santa Barbara, which may be regarded as the type of the entire
Coast district South of Point Arguello, is 14° warmer in January
than Mentone, in the South of France, and has eight inches less
rainfall. Santa Barbara is in latitude 34° 24’ on the Ocean shore,
about forty miles East of Point Arguello, under the shelter of the
Santa Ynez ridge of the Coast Range, which runs East and West.
It has the reputation of having one of the best climates in the State
for diseases of the respiratory organs. It is bounded on the North
by the Coast Range Mountains, with an average height of 3,000
feet, these form an insurmountable barrier to the peculiar harsh
oceanic winds which at times prevail, while on the South it is
bounded by a channel formed by the Santa Cruz and other islands
some twenty miles distant, which serve not only to deflect any cold
current that may sweep down from the Arctic Seas, but affords
protection from the concomitant fogs that sometimes roll in so unin-
terruptedly in other parts of the Coast.

Santa Barbara takes its name from the Mission, but the origin
of the name goes back farther than the latter’s foundation, having
been christened such, in 1603, by Sebastian Vizcaino, who entered
the channel on December the 4th, of that year, being more than a
century and a quarter before the Mission was founded.

The Presidio, a military post, was established four years before
the blessing of the cross on the height where the Mission stands
now. Mission Canon, beautifully situated, bounds it, while before
and somewhat below it lies the town, the foothills being its back-
ground.

The town is 104 miles North of Los Angeles, and 375 miles
South of San Francisco, and is the seat of Santa Barbara County.
The last census credits the city with a population of 11,659, but it
is estimated that now there are at least 13,500 permanent residents.
The rate of increase in population between 1900 and 1910 was
seventy-seven per cent. Santa Barbara is situated at the Southern
edge of the County, and before the days of Coast Highways and
Railroads, the Northern part of the County was better acquainted
with San Francisco than it was with its own county seat. Many
large property owners, in the rich farming districts and oil fields of
the county, reside in, and direct their business operations from Santa
Barbara.

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THE MISSION CITY.

It is one of the features of this region, that plant life is both
luxuriant and varied, in fact, in few other places are found such a
large number of shrubs and trees from all countries of the world.
Of palms there are 150 species, of conifers about the same number,
of bamboos over 50 species, of vines and climbers about 300, and
about 2,000 species of trees, shrubs, and perennials.

The first tourist hotel in Southern California was the old Arling-
ton, built in 1874. This was burnt down about three years ago,
and in its place has now been erected a new edifice, Californian in
form and spirit, which can accommodate 500 guests, and so cleverly
have these fire-proof rooms been arranged, that in each one of them,
the sun when it shines, can penetrate during some period of the day.
The Arlington Hotel is situated away from the sea-shore near the
old Mission, while the Potter Hotel, built in the Mission style, stands
almost on the shore—the grounds of fifty acres running down to the

beach.

Throughout the valleys of Santa Barbara, Montecito. Carpin-
teria, Goleta and Westward, shaded avenues are lined with country
homes set in groves of walnut and olives, bordered by giant euca-
lyptus and fern-like pepper trees. The foot-paths and horseback
trails, of which there are nearly one hundred miles near the city, lead
to numerous charming waterfalls, into shady nooks bedecked with
ferns, round mountain crags and up to many a lofty peak. Among
the numerous out-door sports at Santa Barbara, bathing in the surf
is one of the most popular, as it can be indulged in the entire year
round. The temperature of the water varies from 68° to 71° in
the summer, and never drops lower than sixty degrees in the winter.
A run of a little more than two hours brings us to the city of Los
Angeles.
     

IN

VIEW OF LOS ANGELES FROM SIXTH STREET PARK
THE CITY OF THE ANGELS.

LOS ANGELES.
When Richard Henry Dana cruised the blue Pacific in 1835,

the vessel on which he sailed anchored in an open roadstead off
the Southern California coast. It was a bay with a crescent-shaped
shore, open to the south, but protected from southwesters by what
has since become known as the Magic Isle of Catalina.

This is where the port of Los Angeles today is located—a
modern harbor, built to order along the most improved engineering
lines. Wonderful indeed is the story of its growth during the
past quarter of a century. Few cities of this size, moreover, are
so well known throughout the length and breadth of this country.
The record growth of Los Angeles, from an insignificant semi-
Mexican town to a metropolitan city, has been told and retold.

The original name of the pueblo following the custom that
then prevailed among the Latin races, of giving religious names
to places, was Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles, sometimes written
Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angeles— Our Lady, Queen
of the Angels.” This has been shortened by the practical Yankee
to Los Angeles. It was founded on September 4, 1781, by a
small band of Pobladores, or colonists, who had been recruited in
the Mexican states of Sinaloa and Sonora, and brought here under
command of a government officer, to found an agricultural colony,
for the purpose of raising produce for the soldiers at the various
presidios.

The first census of the little city, taken in August, 1790, gave
the total population of 141. They were a mixed class, composed
of one European, seventy-two Spanish Americans, seven Indians,
twenty-two mulattoes and thirty-nine Mestizos. As recently as 1831,
fifty years after the founding of the pueblo, the population was only
770. In January, 1847, the population was 1,500.

The government census for 1910 shows a population of
319,198—a gain of 211 per cent over the count of 1900. None
unaquainted with Los Angeles can grasp the reason for this
stupendous growth.

None but those who claim Los Angeles as ‘home’ understand
the “why and wherefore” of its continued expansion. There are
three leading features that have contributed to this growth—the
climate, soil, and location.
 

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ONE OF MANY HANDSOME RESIDENCES IN LOS

ANGELES

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THE LONGEST AQUEDUCT IN THE WORLD

Any one of these advantages would be sufficient to build up a
large city, but taken together they insure the future of Los Angeles
as the metropolis of the southwest. The city possesses the great
natural advantage of being located on the shortest route by the
easiest grades between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.

There is no winter and summer in Los Angeles County. They
are represented by wet and dry seasons. The former is far from
a steady down-pour, as some suppose. The rainy season is the
pleasantest time of the year. A beautiful sight is the birth of
spring in this section, following the first considerable down-fall in
the winter months. The bare brown hills are transformed by a
mantle of vivid green, soon followed by a variegated carpet of
wild flowers. Three or four days of rainfall are followed by as
many weeks of sunny skies. The average rainfall is seventeen
inches. This is an ‘‘all-the-year-round climate.” On a winter's
day the Los Angeleio may breakfast by the sea shore, after a dip
in the ocean, lunch amid the orange groves and dine in the snow
fields of the Sierras. The population of Los Angeles is cosmo-
politan. During the past twenty-five years it has received acces-
sions to its population from every State in the Union, and from
almost every country in the world.

Records have been kept by the United States Department of
Agricultural Weather Bureau in Los Angeles for thirty-five years.
These records show that during this period the thermometer went
down to thirty-two degrees, or below, only seventeen times. The
lowest temperature observed at the station was twenty-eight degrees
above zero, or four below freezing point, which happened in Janu-

ary, 1913.

One of the most stupendous enterprises ever undertaken by an
American municipality has been in progress for six years near Los
Angeles and is now completed. It is the bringing of an abundant
fresh water supply to the city a distance of over two hundred and
fifty miles from the snowy-clad slopes of Mt. Whitney. This
aqueduct is the longest in the world. From reservoirs in the San
Fernando Valley, the water is delivered into the present distribu-
tion system by pipe lines. The aqueduct has a capacity of two
hundred and fifty-eight million gallons delivered at the outlet. The
water flows through fifty-two miles of tunnel, twelve miles of siphon,
 
LOS ANGELES A SEAPORT

a hundred miles of lined and covered conduit, forty miles of open-
lined canal, and twenty-one miles of open un-lined.

The street railway system of Los Angeles is very complete.
There is probably no city of its size in the United States that has
such a modern and well-equipped system, the total mileage of single
track being over 365 miles, all electric. The suburban electric
railroads radiating from Los Angeles aggregate 1036 miles of
single track.

There are over a dozen lines of railways centering in Los
Angeles. Several steamship companies run vessels regularly from
Los Angeles County ports to San Francisco, Portland and Puget
Sound on the north, and San Diego on the south.

With the Panama Canal constructed, the coast of Los Angeles
County is now on the direct course of steamships sailing from the
Atlantic Coast and from European to Asiatic ports.

Already arrangements are being made for leading steamship
lines of the world to make this a port of call.

For a dozen years past Los Angeles has been the scene of
great activity in building operations, and now ranks fifth in value
of permits. Scores of fine business blocks and hundreds of hand-
some residences have been built. A great variety of architecture
is found among the residences in Los Angeles. The picturesque
and comfortable early mission style, which should have been more
extensively adopted long ago by the American settler, is at length
coming into vogue. Some of the more pretentious of these mission
residences have spacious tiled courtyards covered with glass in
which fountains splash, flowers bloom and birds warble.

The city of Los Angeles extends from near the mountains to
the ocean, and is now a seaport.

By annexation San Pedro and Wilmington are within the city
limits. Most of the sea-shore resorts can be reached in about forty
minutes from the city’s center and one can be among the pine
forests of the Sierras in less than two hours riding.

The Panama Canal will work as marvelous a transformation
in California as did the discovery of gold by Marshall in 1848.
The changes that have taken place in the last sixty-five years, great
as they have been, are destined to be still greater during the next
quarter of a century.
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THE WINTER HOME OF ‘EASTERN TOURISTS AT PASADENA

 
THE CROWN CITY OF SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

PASADENA.

It is only a little more than a score of years ago that the present
site of the City of Pasadena consisted of orchards and grazing
fields. Today from December to May people flock there from all
parts of the world to enjoy the warm sunshine and the beautiful
flowers. The name Pasadena, signifying the Crown of the Valley,
is Indian, and was suggested by one of the original incorporators
of an association formed in the early seventies for purchasing large
tracts of land of what was then known as the Indiana Colony.
Its winter population is now about seventy-five thousand. Situated as it
is at the head of the San Gabriel Valley, eight hundred feet above
the sea level, the location is ideal; on the north it is protected by
an almost impassable continuous wall of the Sierra Mountains,
which affords perfect protection from the chilling winter winds and
snow, the latter but lending beauty to the scene as it rests on the
crest of the highest summit. This fine location and the gravelly
formation of the soil furnishes a system of natural drainage which
minimizes dampness and makes the spot especially favourable in
the winter months to those afflicted with asthma and bronchial
affections. From the heart of the Pacific come the west winds
to the southland to fan the shores, thus mountain, valley, plain and
ocean are, so to speak, almost at one’s door. It is not to be
wondered at, therefore, that moderation in climatic conditions is
one of Pasadena’s most cherished possessions. Electrical storms
and winds of any great violence are rarely met with in the Crown
City, while wind, rain and sun apparently vie in unison in making
a delightful winter climate. In the summer months eighty-five and
ninety degrees causes very little inconvenience owing to the entire
absence of humidity. There are very few houses in Pasadena that
are not equipped with sleeping porches, so that it is possible
virtually to live in the open air by night as well as by day when
the scent of the sweet orange blossoms, and the song of the
mocking bird, lulls one into dreamland. What charms the visitor
from other lands the most, is, undoubtedly, the wonderful wealth of
flowers of all descriptions that bloom throughout the year. Truly
Pasadena is one vast flower garden. In the depth of winter
hedges of roses and geraniums are no uncommon sight. Bungalows
are almost buried in every variety of sweet-scented roses, from the
W LAND, PASADENA

 
A WINTER PARADISE

modest little Cecile Bruner or baby rose to the pretentious Papa
Gontier—all running riot in Nature's perfect blending. The
millionaire’s mansion and the humblest cottage are equally fortunate
in the profusion of fruits and flowers with which the land is blessed.
There are many gardens that are especially beautiful, and on which
very large sums of money have been spent. These are open to
the public under certain restrictions; the most notable being the
“Sunken Gardens’ of the late Adolphus Busch—a veritable triumph
in the art of gardening. For those whose pleasures lie in motoring,
nothing better can be found than the three hundred miles of beauti-
fully constructed roads that intersect Los Angeles County; by these
all the resorts can be reached by direct route without the delay of
passing through a crowded city.

Not a little of Pasadena’s prosperity is due to the magnificence
of its hotels, they can only be compared to Atlantic City in the
East and the Riviera in France. What money, brains and pro-
gress can achieve has been done to bring these luxurious hostelries
to the acme of comfort in hotel life. The most popular and widely
patronized amongst these being the Huntington, the Maryland, the
Raymond and the Green. These four hotels alone have an ac-
commodating capacity for nearly three thousand guests, many of
whom make them their homes for the entire winter season. The
combination of hotel and home life is a particular feature of the
Maryland. Scattered artistically throughout its private grounds is
“Bungalow Land” where one can enjoy all the comforts of home
life without its attendant domestic worries. Situated on the crest
of beautiful Oak Knoll, and overlooking a vast expanse of orange
land, is “The Huntington,” known as the ‘Millionaire Hotel” on
account of its sumptuous appointments. Here is hallowed ground,
as it was on this identical spot in the year 1812, that the old
Spanish padres of pioneer days made one of their first settlements
and erected the first stone building, which still stands intact, and
is known as “The Old Mill”"—it is now used as a golf house.
There are many fine golf links within a radius of Pasadena. Polo
is also a favourite pastime, and many noted players can be seen
during the season, not only from such clubs as the Meadow Brook,
but also teams from Canada, Great Britain and the Hawaiian

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THE HUNTIN( TERRACE
ROSE TOURNAMENT

The educational advantages in Pasadena are exceptionally
good. The highest state of efficiency is maintained in both the
private and public schools. Within the last year or so has been
erected a group of high school buildings, on which the city has
expended over half a million dollars, and employs between three
and four hundred teachers and officers.

No description of Pasadena would be complete without men-
tioning its ‘Rose Tournament” of New Year's Day. On this
occasion thousands congregate from all parts of the State to join
in this gala festival, waiting with the greatest patience born of
anticipation. All citizens unite in contributing their choicest blooms
to bedeck the bewildering variety of cars and floats. It is inter-
esting to relate that a quarter of a century ago this popular pageant
had its origin in a procession of gaudily garbed Spanish folk who
wended their way thither on horseback or in the creaky “‘Carreta’;
now it assumes a floral parade of often a mile in length, and
equals if not surpasses in beauty anything of its kind in the world;
yet, treason as it may be to say it, it is doubtful if this spirit of
carnival can compare with that which was the inborn inheritance of
those light-hearted Senoras.

After the parade is over thousands migrate to Tournament Park
to witness the exciting chariot races, and the day is brought to a
close by the Fiesta Ball. Pasadena is about six miles east of Los
Angeles by which it is connected by railroad and by an excellent
electric car service.

In the words of a resident of Pasadena: “If you would see a
beautiful city, look around you.”

“0, Paradise to mortals given
To make us think the more of Heaven,
To make us prize the blessings given,
Where hills and mountains e’en surround,
Lulled by the winds to calm profound,
Key of the Valley thou art crowned,
Fair Vale of Pasadena.”
 

AVALON, SANTA CATALINA 1SLAND
FISHING AT AVALON

SANTA CATALINA

Rising out of the ocean twenty-three miles from San Pedro is
Santa Catalina Island. It is one of the Channel Islands, discovered
by Cabrillo in 1542; the great navigator died and was buried on
San Nicolas, an island of this group.

SANTA CATALINA is a mountain range at sea, being twenty-two
miles long, and from one to seven miles wide—the highest peak is
2,200 feet.

The town of Avalon is situated on a crescent shore of the bay
of the same name. As a winter resort, being situated on the land-
ward side of the island, Avalon is a very popular place; frosts are
almost unknown conditions here; the summers are also very pleasant,
as they are cool and rainless, and the visitor, who is fond of the
sea and fishing, can spend the whole day floating over the green and
blue water in glass bottom boats viewing the beautiful submarine
gardens, or fish for tuna, ranging from one hundred to two hundred
and fifty pounds, and the equally game yellowtail, ranging from
twenty to eighty pounds. Both of these fish are caught with rod and
line, testing the skill and endurance of the keenest sportsman.

From the beautiful island of Santa Catalina we continue down
the coast, passing on the way the ruins of Mission San Juan Bautista
(St. John the Baptist), and after a journey of one hundred and
twenty-five miles reach San Diego, whose history dates back to the

landing of the explorer Cabrillo in 1542.

SAN Dieco COUNTY is one of the southernmost in Cali-
fornia. Its agricultural resources are particularly varied, as the soil
and climate will produce almost any food plant, tree or shrub that is
cultivated by man. Both citrus and deciduous fruits are grown on
a large scale; the olive also thrives. Intensive farming is being
followed in several parts of the county, causing the rural districts
‘to settle up rapidly. It is said that San Diego County produces
more honey than any other part of the United States. The mineral
wealth of the county is also considerable, and gems of every variety,
excepting diamonds, emeralds and rubies have been unearthed. The
population of the county at the present time is about 90,000. The
land area is 4221 square miles, and the frontage on the Pacific
Ocean is over seventy-five miles.
TROPICAL FOLIAGE AT CORONADO

 
DISCOVERY OF SAN DIEGO

SAN DIEGO.

The nearest United States port to the Panama Canal is San
Diego, a rapidly growing city of nearly 70,000 people; in 1900
there were only 17,700. Commercially the future of the town
should be assured by her fine land-locked harbor, ‘now ranking as
third in importance on the Pacific Coast. The total area of the
bay is twenty-two square miles; it is sixteen miles long. In the near
future two transcontinental lines will run into San Diego, as the
San Diego and Arizona Railroad is now nearly completed. The
equable climate of the city is also a potent factor in its upbuilding.
The earliest settlement on the Pacific Coast of the United States
was made at San Diego in 1769. The bay was discovered on
September 28, 1542, by Cabrillo, who named it San Miguel, but
in 1602 it received the name of San Diego de Alcala (St. James of
Alcala), by Sebastian Vizcaino, though no settlement was made by
the Spaniards, until the arrival by sea of the division of an expedi-
tion from Mexico, April 11, 1769. Gaspar de Portola and Father
Junipero Serra, commanding the expedition, arrived with the land
division on June 13th. The first permanent settlement (May 14,
1769), was on a hill in what is now known as “Old Town,” where
a stockade was built and cannon mounted. On July 16, 1769,
Father Serra founded the Mission of San Diego, the first in Cali-
fornia. Among the public buildings of note are the State Normal
School, the City Free Library, the new Polytechnic High School
and the public bathhouse. The Federal building occupies an
entire block, and is in the mission style. The U. S. Grant Hotel, in
the heart of the city, fronts the plaza. It is said to have cost $2.000.-
000, and to be one of the largest concrete fireproof buildings in the
world. San Diego has 6000 acres of park lands. The largest is
Balboa Park, the site of the Panama-California Exposition. It
comprises 1400 acres of high land, intersected by deep canyons,
sloping gently from broad mesas. The main buildings of the €xpo-
sition are permanent, to be used by the municipality after 1915.
This group of buildings are of Spanish architecture, and will be
known as the Mission City.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

On the opposite side of the bay from San Diego, lying like a
castle on the point of a picturesque peninsular, is the famous Hotel
del Coronado, ‘“‘the crown of the Pacific’. On one side of this
peninsula, are the still warm waters of San Diego Bay, while on the
other are the foam-crested breakers of the Pacific rolling upon a
sandy beach. It would be impossible to find anywhere a more beau-
tiful spot for an hotel; it is set in the center of a luxuriant semi-
tropical garden, and is built in the shape of a hollow square; near
it is the polo field, where many national and international cham-
plonship games are held; bathing is good the year round.

South of this point is the Silver Strand, a narrow strip of sandy
beach connecting Coronado with the mainland, the Mexican border
and Tia Juana. On North Island—really a peninsula—north of
Coronado, is the U. S. Government aviation field; climatic condi-
tions being so ideal here, no better site could be selected for scien-
tific navigation of the air. It was here that Glenn Curtis perfected
his hydroplane, and here that many of the most famous aviators of
the country have made notable flights. The Coronado Islands, six-
teen miles southwest of the hotel, are the destination of frequent
launch parties; the islands are uninhabited save by pelicans, and
other wild birds, and seals. Near by are the game fish banks.

Coming north from San Diego we naturally spend a few days
amid the orange groves of Riverside and Redlands, two beautiful
inland cities fragrant with the scent of blossoms which surround even
their business blocks. At Riverside the Magnolia Avenue drive and
the drive up Mt. Rubidoux will long be remembered, and the
Mission Inn with its Chapel, its Campanile and sweet-voiced chimes,
will be pleasantly novel to the most widely-journeyed traveler.

Every part of this western country has its favorite drive. At
Redlands, so called on account of the reddish tinge of its soil, the
McKinley Drive, reaching the summit of Smiley Heights, affords a
wonderful panorama of mountains, valleys and orange groves.

Continuing north we have choice of two routes across the Mojave
range to Bakersfield, the center of a large agricultural district and
also the distributing point for the famous San Joaquin Valley oil
section.

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NEAR THE OIL FIELDS

BAKERSFIELD.

BAKERSFIELD is the county seat of Kern County, and is a
rapidly growing and well-built city of about 18,000 people; it was
4836 in 1900. The city is the center of a large farming, fruit-grow-
ing and cattle-raising territory, but its rapid rise is due mainly to the
discovery and development of the oil resources of the county. The
oil industry is immense, having developed greatly since 1900. Pro-
ducing about 50,000,000 barrels of petroleum yearly, Kern County
yields more than any other single field in the world except Baku,
Russia. In 1910 the output of Kern County was about one-eighth
of the world’s petroleum production. The oil well region and the
processes of refining the crude petroleum are of great interest to
visitors to California, since the large oil fields of the world are not
numerous. Lhe other oil fields of Kern County lie upon the west
side of the county. The McKittrick fields are reached by the
McKittrick branch of the Southern Pacific. The Sunset fields and
the Midway fields, in the southwestern part of the county, are
reached from Bakersfield by the Sunset railroad. North of the
McKittrick oil fields are the Lost Hills oil fields, which are being
developed. The oil from the Kern County fields is transported by
pipe line to various harbors along the coast, most of it to Richmond,
on San Francisco Bay. The handsome Kern County Court House
contains the County Free Library, which supplies the books to out-
lying branch libraries. Another library, erected in memory of
General E. F. Beale, is near the center of the city, and nearby is a
notable clock tower, built in memory of his mother by Truxton
Beale. To him also is due the gift of a beautiful park of several
acres, in which was built an open-air theater of Grecian architecture.
In this park also is an athletic field, a running track and a swim-
ming pool.

On leaving Bakersfield it is only a short and pleasant run to
Fresno, up the broad San Joaquin Valley, with the glistening crest
of the Sierra Nevada ever in view on the eastern horizon.
A

MISSION

CARAVANSERY

AT

RIVERSIDE

RO iio

RII i

      

¥

 
THE RAISIN CITY

FRESNO.

FRESNO is the largest city in the central San Joaquin Valley
and is growing rapidly. It is the capital of Fresno County, which is
the greatest fruit-producing section of the State. The county has an
area of 5950 square miles, and in 1910 had a population of
75,657; in 1900 it was 37,862. The irrigation system of Fresno
County is the largest of any in California, the water coming from
the King river.

Fresno leads the world in the production of raisins. Calimyrna
figs form another well-known export. Wine and olive oil are
also important products. The lumber industry is large. Con-
siderable mineral resources await development. The Coalinga
oil field, in Fresno County, is one of the richest in the world.
“Fresno” in Spanish signifies “white ash,” the name having been
given to the county because of the mountain ash growing in the
upland region. In the town of Fresno considerable manufacturing
has been brought about by the drying and canning of fruit. Con-
nected with Fresno by a boulevard, lined with eucalyptus, oleanders
and palms, is Kearny Park, eleven miles to the west. The elaborate
grounds cover 240 acres, and the entire estate of 5182 acres is the
property of the University of California, deeded to that institution
by its former owner, Martin Theodore Kearny.

For more than half a century many varieties of grapes have been
brought into California from all the grape-producing countries of the
world. They have many names, some of these have been pre-
served, some lost, and others have received local appellations. The
varieties of raisin grapes are few in number, the White Muscat and
the Muscatel holding the first place, while the seedless varieties or
Sultana are now to be found in all parts of the State. Today
Fresno County alone produces nearly double the quantity of raisins
produced in Spain, which held the lead for centuries.

In the early seventies, a raisin seeding machine was invented by
Mr. George Pettit, and seeded raisins were first introduced to the
public by him. When first placed upon the market, it was with
some difficulty that about twenty tons were disposed of, and no one
then imagined the enormous success this system was destined to
achieve.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

Fresno County is the center of the seeded raisin industry, where
it originated. In 1903 Fresno alone produced 18,000 tons of
raisins, and in 1913, 49,000 tons.

After leaving Fresno every few miles brings us to some thriving
town set in the heart of vineyards, orchards and dairy farms,—a
beautiful country, showing on all sides the evidences of prosperity.
The roads are well paved, the buildings are solid and modern;
automobiles have largely taken the place of the horse, and, if
appearances count for anything, one would say that country life in
California is both healthful and remunerative.

One of the attractive cities through which we pass is MERCED,
the junction point where the railroad branches off and follows the
winding river up the Merced Canon to El Portal, the gateway to
Yosemite National Park.

Another place which a few years ago was a village and is now
a busy modern city, is MODESTO, the center of a large rural popula-
tion, and the point through which automobiles pass on their way to
Yosemite Valley.

STOCKTON.

StockTON, the Chicago of California, or the “Gateway City,”
is situated near the San Joaquin river, at the head of tidewater
navigation. In 1773 the site of the city was visited by Father Crespi,
one of the first Franciscan missionaries. The city was founded in
the early days, when it was an important depot of supplies for the
mines. It has shown a steady growth, the population in 1910 being
23,000; in 1900 it was 17,000. Stockton has always been
important as a manufacturing city and is progressing rapidly along
industrial lines. The Stockton channel extends into the heart of the
city. Large steam and sailing vessels run from here to San Fran-
cisco, ninety miles by water, and to other bay points. A great
number of schooners, barges and launches, known as the “Mosquito
Fleet,” follow the same route, carrying to market the produce of the
rich “Netherlands” farms.

The delta of the San Joaquin is divided into a great number of
islands, most of them enclosed by levees. This is fertile land, much
THE STATE CAPITAL

of it devoted to horticulture and dairying. The asparagus planta-
tions are of particular interest. Many of the delta farms, below the
river level, are irrigated through gates in the levees. Stockton is a
great railroad center, having four transcontinental lines and various
branches leading to mountain resorts. It is an excellent point of
departure for the Sierra Nevadas and the famous old mining region
of the “Mother Lode.” The Calaveras Big Tree Grove can be

reached by an excellent auto route from Stockton.

SACRAMENTO.

SACRAMENTO is the largest inland city of the State of Cali-
fornia, of which it is the Capital. Its growth in recent years has been
rapid, its population now amounting to over 54,000. The city is
one of the great transportation centers of the State, and is situated
on the Sacramento river at an elevation of twenty-three feet, just
south of the point where the American river joins the larger stream.
The Sacramento river plays a very important part in California’s
prosperity, and now ranks fourth among the rivers of the United
States in tonnage carried. The river has its source on the southwest
slope of Mount Shasta and flows south 350 miles to Suisun Bay.
It is navigable to Red Bluff, 262 miles. At one time large ocean-
going steamers went up to Sacramento, but erosion of soil from
farming and mining filled the river channel with silt. The Sacra-
mento Valley is exceedingly fertile. It consists of about three mil-
lion acres of almost level land and several millions of foothill land.
In all there are twelve million acres embraced in the valley. It is
approximately 160 miles long, and varies in width up to sixty miles
at its lower end. The Capitol at Sacramento stands on an embank-
ment ten feet higher than the level of the surrounding streets. Begun
in 1860, the cornerstone was laid on May 15, 1861, and was com-
pleted in 1874, but since then many improvements have been made.
 
   
 

   

SER

= RE RRE
LAKE TAHOE

ON THE

   

STATE HIGHWAY AROUND
A LAKE A MILE HIGH

LAKE TAHOE is most easily reached by the Southern Pacific to
Truckee and the Lake Tahoe Railway to Tahoe City. In making
the Lake Tahoe trip by automobile the favourite route is via Auburn,
Colfax, and through the old gold diggings to Truckee, thence up
the Truckee River, fifteen miles to Tahoe Tavern. The road then
skirts the lake shore around Emerald Bay to Tallac, and returns via
Placerville, following the North Fork of the American River—a
trip of 260 miles without doubling back.

[Lake Tahoe has been described as one of the scenic wonders
of the United States. It certainly is very remarkable and beautiful.
Its infinite scenery alone is worth a visit. The blue of its waters
is matched by few lakes, for Lake Tahoe in places is said to be
too deep to be measured, and many believe that it 1s fed by under-
ground springs as well as by the melting snows of the mountains.
The shores are skirted by green meadows and sandy beaches, pine
forests, rocky cliffs and promontories, and towering crags. The lake
is thirteen miles wide and twenty-three miles long, and most of the
time its surface 1s calm, but occasionally it is subject to storms. The
surface of the lake is 6240 feet above sea level, and the highest
mountains which rear their crests above it are 11,120 feet in alti-

tude; this is the height of Freel’s Peak and Job's Sister.

Most of Lake Tahoe is in California, but all of the eastern
shore and part of the northern are in the State of Nevada.

Surrounding the lake are numerous well-equipped resorts, ranging
from the luxuriously artistic Tahoe Tavern to the modest yet com-
fortable camp. During the season the days are pleasantly warm
and the nights cool, and the Tahoe region is known for its freedom
from poison oak, rattlesnakes or mosquitoes.

A steamer makes daily trips around the lake, stopping at the
principal landings. Boating, fishing, bathing, hunting, riding and
mountain climbing in the clear atmosphere make this lake region very
beneficial, not only to persons in good health, but to those whose
condition requires change, exercise and bracing climate.

In writing of this region, Dr. Sachs, of New York, says: “As
for the waters of Lake Tahoe, they have a charm all their own; I
have not seen their equal either on this continent or abroad. Were
the journey from the Atlantic Coast twice as long the Tahoe country
would be worth while.”
 
HAPPY HUNTING GROUNDS

A NEW COUNTRY.

The lines of the Western Pacific Railway in California run
from Oakland to Stockton, thence north to Sacramento, through
Marysville and Oroville into the Feather River country, one of
the most picturesque regions of the state. The headwaters of this
beautiful stream rise in Plumas County, which with an area of
2,594 square miles, has the largest extent of timber land in Cali-
forma; in fact it may be said to be almost one continuous forest.
In the numerous mountain valleys agriculture is carried on, while
mining has been a source of much wealth in years gone by. What
is known as the Feather River Cafion commences at Oroville sta-
tion. The Feather River, with its tributaries—the North, Middle
and East forks—nearly covers the whole of Plumas County, so
that the Grand Cafion of the Feather River, through which the
Western Pacific passes from Oroville to Mabie (113 miles) is
really a succession of the canons of the tributaries of the Feather
River. In 1820 Don Luis Arguello organized an expedition for
the exploration of the upper part of the Sacramento Valley; he
followed the cafion up for twenty miles, and finding the surface
of the river covered with the feathers of the countless water fowl
living in the cliffs above the stream called it Rio de Las Plumas,
or Feather River. As the train progresses above Oroville many
small stations are passed. Some of these are the outlets for the
mills and mines; others are summer resorts and favorite places for
sportsmen, who find in the virgin forest and the pools of the many
tributary creeks some of the finest sport to be had in California.
For forty years stories of this district have been told over the club
tables where sportsmen foregathered. People are accustomed now
to the finding of the astonishing in the California outdoors, yet it
is perhaps not too much to say that the country of the Feather
River may justly be regarded as one of the things to see in Cali-
fornia. The Feather River Canon is a prolonged Yosemite. The
Creator never wrote with bolder stroke than across the changeless face
of the Arch Rock, never spoke beauty into a stream more perfectly
than into the Feather, and never clothed mountains more majestically
than when He bade these mighty forests be.

The Plumas National Forest is rapidly being covered with a sys-
tem of trails and roads, and within it is the very heart of that region
 

LITTLE BEAR LAKE, NEAR BLAIRSDEN, FEATHER RIVER CANYON
WITH ROD AND FLY

known as the Feather River Country. The county seat of Plumas is
Quincy, a prosperous town situated in the center of the American
Valley, surrounded by pine-clad hills and snow-capped peaks—many
come here to spend the summer months. Keddie, a station on the
Western Pacific, eight miles from Quincy, is the center of a large
area of beautiful country, whose hillsides are well stocked with
game, and whose many waterways team with fish. It is the scene
of great activity, being the shipping point of Indian Valley. Indian
Falls, the old mining camp of Shoo-Fly, is on Indian Creek, about
five miles from Keddie. Belden, 260 miles from San Francisco, on the
banks of the Feather, is another favored fishing center. Going
down to the southern part of the county one reaches Blairsden, in
beautiful Mohawk Valley, with the town of Mohawk itself a mile
distant. Blairsden, near which the new Feather River Inn recently
was opened, is best of all known as one of the doorways to the
famous region of the Gold and other lakes. Gold Lake Camp is
situated in the heart of the Sierra Nevada Mountains at an alti-
tude of over 6,500 feet, nine miles from Clio, and ten from Blairs-
den; it is the most centrally located camp on the Gold Lake
region, lying midway between Gold and Bear lakes, to either of
which it is but ten minutes walk. Little Bear and Silver lakes
are about one-quarter of a mile away, while Long and Mud lakes
are nearly a mile off, set together in the shadow of Mount Elwell,
from whose topmost point a magnificent view may be obtained.
These lakes are all well stocked with trout, the species of which
are the original mountain, the eastern brook and the rainbow. These
fish run from one-quarter of a pound to five pounds in weight. The
fly and the spoon are the lures mostly used. Rowboats on Gold,
Bear and Long lakes are free to guests. The snow-capped moun-
tains which surround Clio and the Gold Lake Region are the home
of the deer and the bear; mountain quail and grouse shooting is
excellent in the Mohawk Valley near Clio; it is said to be the
best in the State.
MOUNT SHASTA, HEIGHT I14,444 FT.

 
NEAR THE NORTHERN BORDER

Siskiyou COUNTY, one of the extreme northern divisions of
California, is larger than some of the Eastern states in area. The
county contains 6256 square miles, about five-sixths of which is
mountainous, the remainder being valley land. To the east tower the
mighty peaks of the Sierra, with Mount Shasta rising above the
range. The Trinity and Scott mountains are in the southwest, the
Siskiyou mountains in the north and northwest, and the Salmon
mountains in the west. All of these ranges are joined by spurs, so
that the central valley of Siskiyou County is completely surrounded
by peaks and high mountain ridges. Though one of the most
sparsely settled regions in the State (18,000 in 1910), Siskiyou
is one of the oldest in point of history and one of the richest as
regards natural opportunities. It was the scene of mining excite-
ment in the early 50’s, especially about Yreka, and mines are still
worked throughout the county. Lumbering, stock raising and agri-
culture are now far more productive than mining, and are destined
to become more important as the millions of acres of pasture, of
farming and of timber land in Siskiyou are developed. Moun-
tain sheep, muledeer, blacktail deer, whitetail deer, bear and
smaller animals abound in the woods and mountains.

MOUNT SHASTA, usually ascended from Sisson, is practically
a single cone of an extinct volcano. A road runs from Sisson to the
timber line, whence the ascent is made by trail. It is the usual
custom to camp for the night at the timber line, thus making the
climb to the summit and return in one day. From the summit,
which is 14,444 feet above sea level, there is one of the finest
views, both in extent and variety of scenery that can be seen any-
where. At the top of the mountain there are many evidences of the
volcanic origin of the peak. Steam still emerges from the higher
crevices and molten sulphur bubbles out near the summit. The lava
caves here are very remarkable. They are caused by the cooling of
the outer crust of the lava while the molten core flowed out.
Some of these caves, or lava tubes, are very extensive, one being
three-quarters of a mile long. On the eastern and northeastern
slopes are two glaciers, the Whitney and McCloud. There is always
snow around the summit of the mountain, though at some seasons
it almost disappears.
 

PELICAN BAY LODGE
 

SNOWY SISKIYOUS

Yreka was in the region of the Modoc War, and many of the
early inhabitants remember the fact that it was in this county that
Joaquin Miller, the poet, spent several years of rough Western life
as a miner, rancher and lawyer. Beyond Yreka lies the Scott
Valley, an important farming region of 150,000 acres; this country
is reached by stage just as in the days of 49. The Western half
of Siskiyou County, bordering on Del Norte and Humboldt, is very
mountainous.

KLAMATH FALLS and KLAMATH COUNTY are in the State of
Oregon, but KLAMATH LAKE and KLAMATH HOT SPRINGS are in
Siskiyou County, California, so that the Klamath Country lies on
each side of the border line.

The Klamath Country with the Klamath Lakes and the river
which drains them, derive their name from the Klamath Indians.
The country lies east of the main axis of the Cascade range, which
is here broken into spurs and detached mountain masses, between
which lie a series of fertile valleys and half a dozen lakes. Its
social and business centre is the little city of Klamath Falls, which
is reached from Weed station on the Shasta route of the Southern
Pacific. The elevation is about 4,000 feet, the air dry and only
moderately warm in the summer. A trip to the Crater Lake can be
made from Klamath Falls by boat and auto in one day, returning to
Pelican Bay Lodge; it is one of the memorable experiences of a life-
time. Pelican Bay Lodge was originally the summer home of the
late E. H. Harriman, now, together with adjacent bungalows, it has
been converted into a high-class resort. It is a beautifully attractive
spot, selected by one who knew the resources of the continent and
could choose where he would.

Snow-capped Shasta is seventy miles away, distinctly seen, often
at night, and in the distance to the North Mount Pitt stands out
distinctly.

Klamath Falls is located on the edge of an absolute wilderness,
yet lakes set in green are at the door, while fishing and hunting
grounds lie North and South and penetrate the lava bed country of
the Modoc War period, and reach far up the streams and rivers
emptying into the upper lake and Pelican Bay. Trips can be made
by boats of several kinds, or they can be made over well-graded
       

THE PHANTOM SHIP, CRATER LAKE
A MOUNTAIN CAULDRON

roads in automobiles with the certainty of finding unusual surround-
ings, and also finding good accommodations if the excursion is
protracted beyond the day.

Crater Lake is easily reached by motor-boat and automobile
direct from Klamath Falls, via Pelican Bay Lodge. The altitude
at the rim of the lake is 7,076 feet, but the rise is so gradual that
a tourist car goes to the rim of the Crater without much difficulty.

No one knows when or how the water came into the heart of
this burned out crater. It is believed, from the few evidences yet
decipherable, that this mighty basin was formed by the wrecking of
a great mountain through the breaking of its walls 8,000 feet below
its summit, and then the whole cone sinking into the pit and being
turned into lava.

The tragic spectacle was probably unseen by human eye, and
ended by forming a cauldron which for grandeur and beauty rivals
anything of its kind in the world. Standing on the rim of the crater
one looks down about 2,000 feet on to a blue and tranquil lake
six miles long by five miles wide. It is impossible to adequately
convey in words the awe-inspiring charm this scene creates!

Of wild game, the Silver Grey squirrel, mink, otter, lynx,
congar, black-tailed and mule deer are found. Brown and black
bears are killed within a few miles of Klamath Falls. Though not
game birds, White Pelicans are a feature of this region, and many
may be seen standing in the sun on lake borders, or winging their
way in the evening from Bird Island to their feeding grounds—a
part of Lower Klamath Lake has been set aside as a retreat for
wild birds—a sort of natural aviarium.

The fishing is good in the wonderfully blue water of Crater
Lake and a boat is available for excursions around the lake, while a
visit to Wizard Island is deeply interesting. The best time in the
year to visit Klamath Falls is mid-summer, as then the ground is
clear of snow, and the air is very delightful.
EY

UNDER THE PALMS AT BYRON

 
MEDICINAL SPRINGS

The Chemistry of Mineral Waters
and Their Therapeutic Value

“The Springs that rise for You today
Are Magic filled with Pleasure,
For Health and Happiness they bring
And know nor stint nor measure.”

H. R. Braden.

CHAPTER XIII

%RBT 1s a matter of history that Medicinal Springs are of
* great benefit to mankind.

<2 3 For five centuries Mineral Waters were almost

9% the only medicines employed in Rome, and the

IDLER *“Aquee Calientes’ have been in active use for drink-

ing and bathing purposes for over two thousand years.

 
 

The earliest Greek and Roman physicians admitted and advo-
cated their efficacy in the treatment of many diseases.

Josephus mentions the Thermal Baths of Calirrpee, now the
Dead Sea, made famous by Herod the Great, who used them during
his illness.

The Egyptians, Arabians and Mohammedans have used mineral
waters for the healing of the sick from a very early period.

Homer frequently speaks of bathing and using the* natural
waters in holy marriages. Pliny, in his Natural History, mentions
a large number of mineral and thermal springs in the different parts
of Europe, and speaks highly of their curative properties.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

It is well, however, to realize that even to-day, we know very
little of the true composition of a mineral water.

The chemist can isolate the elements, and can separate the
simple substances from the basic or acid radicals; he knows that the
water contains a given weight per litre of sodium, of iron, of lime,
etc.; he can also find that the simple bodies are combined in it with
oxygen In certain proportions, but it is only by reasoning that he can
establish, in a purely hypothetical manner, the presence of salts, and
be able to say that a water contains alkaline carbonates, etc. From
the hydro-logical standpoint, an acquaintance with laws that regulate

saline solutions is a very important one, for a mineral water is an °

exceedingly complex inorganic body, whose properties are dominated
by its physico-chemical constitution.

Modern physics has shown, that in a solution of a salt, or in
other words an electrolyte, the radicals whose combination con-
stitutes the salt, that is to say, the IONS, are separate, and that,
under the influence of a true vibratory condition, there are perpetually
going on exchanges of different ions, from molecule to molecule.
A mineral water being generally a very complicated solution, it con-
sequentiy, therefore, generally contains a very large quantity of
ions. These ions are simply placed side by side, they vibrate,
and consequently from one moment to another, either of them may
combine with the ions of the neighboring molecule.

There is no doubt but that these movements engender in the
medium formed by the mineral water, an indefinite number of
combinations.

The phenomenon of IONISATION guarantees to the mineral
solution certain particular and exceptional properties which can be
attributed to what is known as the nascent state, for the principle of
ionisation forces one to admit that the elements are present in this
state in the solutions of electrolytes. This theory explains scien-
tifically why we fail to obtain similar effects with artificial waters
prepared with salts from the laboratories, and why we have no
right to regard mineral waters as simple solutions containing definite
chemical salts.

In reality, the question is very complicated, for mineral waters
may be considered as bodies endowed, up to a certain point, with a

D3

Rant
THE ANALYSIS OF MINERAL WATERS

biological function. It may be assumed, with many chances of
being within the truth, that when the water issues from its fountain it
is endowed with an essentially changing composition, and presents,
in short, the characters of LIFE. Also, it has been very truly said,
that when one analyses a water one is almost working on a corpse.
This 1s especially true of mineral waters of a complicated com-
position. There is no doubt that the cooling down, which com-
pletely changes the physical state of the liquid, greatly modifies the
state of the bodies composing it in relation to each other.

When one takes the cryoscopic point of a mineral water, it has
not the molecular weight that one would expect it to have when
calculating on the weight of salts supposed to be dissolved in it
according to the analysis.

The molecular weight found, is much higher than the weight
calculated; this one finds out in noting that the congealing point is
beneath the theoretical point which would exist if the solution were
perfect, that is to say, if the saline molecules were to remain integral
in the liquid.

The calculation of the weights found, enables us to recognize
that a part of the dissolved salts, about one-half or three-quarters,
have been ionised, or in other words dissociated from their elements.

These free ions vibrate in the liquid under the attractive or
repulsive influence of their electric charges. It is, therefore, wrong
to cherish the conception of a mineral water as an inert body; it
represents, on the contrary, a real mineral species, complex, but with
a perfectly balanced association of molecules and ions endowed
with certain properties.

These molecules and ions possess an electric equilibrium, a
positive or negative charge, and certain quantities of living forces.
All these forces come into play in the solution; the ions and the
molecules react on one another in a multitude of exchanges and
combinations, as rapidly made as undone.

A mineral water, like every complex solution, represents an
essentially living medium, the study of which is still most incomplete,
but nevertheless is highly interesting. In a recent article in the
“Lancet” of London it is pointed out, with much truth, that the
effects of the salts in natural mineral waters are such as cannot be
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

obtained from any artificial imitation of them, and it is aptly sug-
gested that the newly-discovered property of radio-activity which is in
all probability possessed by all natural waters, may account for much
that has hitherto seemed unaccountable. Professor Oscar Liebreich
has also expressed his belief ‘‘that minimal quantities of substances
in mineral waters may be of importance,” and speaks of the fallacy
of the old-fashioned notion that springs, the chief ingredients of
which are the same, have the same therapeutic effect even though
differing in some minor ingredients; and he also refers to the fact
that two mineral waters, otherwise identical, will be found to differ
as regards electrical conductibility.

More remarkable still is the conclusion arrived at by experi-
mental physiologists, that absolutely pure water, that is water with-
out traces of mineral substances, is poisonous? In ordinary spring
water the mineral substances most commonly found are salts of
lime, chiefly the bi-carbonate and sulphate, and, in smaller pro-
portions, often some salts of soda and magnesia, and especially
sodium chloride.

A mineral water, or as it is sometimes termed, a ‘medicinal’
water is one which either from its chemical composition, or its
thermality, or some other quality which experience has proved it to
possess, is found useful in the treatment of disease. There are very
few mineral springs in which salts of lime are not found, particu-
larly in the form of the carbonate, the sulphate, and the phosphate.
Salts of sodium also are very common, either as sodium chloride,
sodium sulphate or sodium carbonate. Magnesium salts, especially
the sulphate are also common. Potassium salts are less frequently
met with, but potassium sulphate is often found in combination with
sodium and magnesium sulphates. Iron compounds, in small
amounts, arz common ingredients in mineral springs, and in some
they are present in sufficient quantity to give them distinctive thera-
peutic properties. The carbonates of iron are the most widely
diffused ferruginous compounds, but the sulphates and chlorides are
also found. Silica in small amount occurs in many springs.

In waters containing sodium chloride in notable amounts other
chlorides are often found associated with it, some only in small
proportions, such as the chlorides nf calcium, magnesium, potassium,
lithium, ammonium, manganese, strontium and barium. Iodine and
REMEDIAL VALUE OF MINERAL WATERS

bromine in small amount are sometimes found in the same class of
waters, usually in combination with sodium, potassium and mag-
nesium. Sulphur in “Sulphur” waters, usually occurs in sulphur-
etted hydrogen, or some other binary compound, as sulphide of
sodium or calcium.

There is a small group of mineral waters which are termed
Arsenical, as they contain arsenic, generally in small, but in
varying proportions.

The arsenic usually occurs in alkaline waters, commonly in the
form of sodium arsenate, as in La Bourboule and Monte Dore,
France, and Arrowhead, in California, sometimes in association with
iron, as in Levico, in Austria.

In some springs arsenic occurs in quantities so minute as to be
practically of no importance, yet these waters are occasionally
termed ‘‘Arsenical.”

The remedial action of mineral waters is largely dependent on
associated conditions, such as alterations in diet, climate, exercise,
social surroundings, etc.; they are probably more worthy of consid-
eration In many Instances than small differences in the chemical
composition of the mineral water.

There can be no doubt that many mineral waters have been
raised into importance by the skillful accessory methods attending
their use.

Even in mineral waters containing active and energetic constitu-
ents, much of this efficacy depends on the watchful regularity of
their application.

The daily drinking of a large quantity of pure water as an
ordinary beverage, apart from the mineral substances it holds in
solution, must have most influential physiological and therapeutic
effects. It stimulates healthy metabolism, by assisting in the removal
of waste products accumulated in the organism, and by flushing and
cleansing the excretory channels.

Of the sodium chloride waters, only the weaker ones are em-
ployed undiluted internally, as the stronger are too irritating to the
gastric mucous membrane. The presence of a considerable amount
of free carbonic acid in many of them favors their internal use,
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

makes them more pleasant to take, and augments their stimulating
effect on stomach digestion.

These waters taken fasting, increase gastric tone and function,
and renal secretion. The whole of the alkaline class of waters are
of great importance for internal use, as they owe their alkalinity to
the presence of sodium bicarbonate. They act as antacids in
gastric hyper-acidity; they allay gastric irritability, and stimulate and
regulate the gastric functions. When taken warm, they exert a
cleansing action on the gastric mucous membrane in catarrhal condi-
tions, dissolving stringy mucus adhering to the gastric walls and
washing it away. They also tend to counter-act abnormal fermen-
tative processes; they dilute the bile .and promote its secretion and
its free flow by flushing the bile ducts, and are thus found of great
service in the treatment of gall-stones and catarrh of the bile ducts.

The colder springs are more diuretic, as they neutralize hyper-
acidity of the urine, and in liquefying accumulations of mucus in
the bladder they act as solvents of uric acid, and are therefore of
great value in cases of uric and oxalic acid renal calculi.

The alkaline and sodium sulphate waters are of great thera-
peutic importance. They are amongst the most effective and
reliable of mineral waters. In full doses they have a purgative
action, the cold ones being more effective and reliable than the warm.
They stimulate intestinal peristalsis and liquefy the intestinal con-
tents. This effect is believed to be due to the small amount of the
salts absorbed in the stomach and upper part of the alimentary tract,
so that considerable portions pass on into the large intestine. The
cold springs also have a marked diuretic effect, the warm ones are
less aperient and less diuretic. The metamorphosis of fat is in-
creased by these springs. Like other alkaline waters, they exert a
stimulating effect on the flow of the bile and a solvent action on uric
acid. These springs are of great service in cases of abdominal
plethora with constipation and hemorrhoids, especially in “high
feeders.” The cold and more purgative waters are best suited to
such cases.

The warm springs are more suitable to the treatment of gastric
and intestinal catarrh, cases of catarrhal jaundice, of gall-stones, of
hepatic congestion and hypertrophy, as well as splenic hypertrophy,
>

THE INTERNAL USE OF MINERAL WATERS

the sequel of malarial fever; of cases also of uric acid gravel and
gout,

The class of mineral waters distinguished by the considerable
amounts they contain of the aperient sulphates of magnesium and
sodium, and often named ‘Bitter Waters’ because of the bitter taste
of the magnesium sulphate, and are largely employed for their purga-
tive effect in the treatment of habitual constipation. Their action is
mainly purgative; they exert a stimulating effect on the secretions of
the intestines, and tend to liquefy the faeces as well as to excite
peristaltic action. They are employed for the same purpose as other
aperients. They have been found useful in the treatment of obesity.

The internal use of chalybeate waters is very efficacious in the
treatment of many forms of anemia and chlorosis. The most useful
of the iron springs are those which contain carbonate of iron
together with a large amount of free carbonic acid. The combina-
tion Is an important one, and promotes the digestion of the water and
therefore the assimilation of the iron.

It is certain that the use of such waters for some weeks is fol-
lowed by an increase in the number of the red blood corpuscles, and
in the amount of haemoglobin. There is generally some improve-
ment in appetite, but a tendency to constipation has often to be
guarded against by the simultaneous administration of some gentle
aperient. Iron waters are especially indicated in cases of anemia
and chlorosis following loss of blood, or accompanying retarded
convalescence, after acute disease, or when the sequel of malarial
attacks, or associated with general exhaustion from over-work, or
neurasthenia; also in amenorrhcea and other disorders of the sexual
system accompanied with debility. Given internally sulphur is
absorbed into the blood to some extent, eliminated in the perspiration,
milk, urine, etc., and exercises a gentle alterative effect upon the skin
and mucous membranes. It seems to have been established that even
small amounts of sulphur as are present in sulphur waters, are
capable of producing stimulating effects on healthy organs, and it
has been inferred that even small amounts may excite reaction in
diseased organs which may be attended with remedial effects. It
has been observed that they exert an internal antiseptic action. In
the treatment of gout by sulphur baths and the internal use of
sulphur waters, the elimination of uric acid has been markedly

increased. Besides gout and constitutional syphilis, sulphur baths
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

are of great benefit in cases of chronic rheumatic affections, rheuma-
toid arthritis, chronic metallic poisoning, some scrofulous disorders,
and in some chronic affections of the nervous system, as tabes and
certain motor and sensory neuroses. As many of the mineral springs
described in the following chapters contain Sulphur in their waters,
it will be unnecessary to again mention in what diseases these sulphur
waters are applicable and beneficial.

Little need be said, as to the action of lithium, iodine and
bromine, as these mineral substances may be taken to have the
same physiological and therapeutical effects as when given in the
ordinary pharmaceutical preparations. Very remarkable results have
been obtained by adding small doses of sulphate of iron to arsenical
waters in anemic and chlorotic states, and in enlargement of the
lymphatic glands and the torpid forms of scrofula, in malarial
cachexia, and in neuralgias.

In the Appendix will be found an analysis of some of the
important Mineral Springs in California. In most of these analyses,
I have given both the ionic and the hypothetical, in parts per million,
and grains per United States gallon. The French Government
Analysis of the Arrowhead Penyugal Arsenic Springs is in grammes
per litre of the acid radicles.

In a recent report on water analyses issued by the United States
Geological Survey, it is pointed out that the old custom of reporting
water analyses in terms of salts is now obsolete. The United States
officials claim that salts in solution are more or less completely dis-
sociated into their ions, and only exceptionally can the form in
which the ions might combine be accurately foretold.

Two chemists reporting the same analysis in terms of salts might
reach quite dissimilar conclusions, both in all probability being
wrong.

In every analysis the acid and the basic, or negative and positive,
radicles ought to balance. To make a strictly logical and uniform
statement of all the analyses is extremely difficult, if not impossible;
but approximate uniformity is easily attained.

There are, in the state of California, many Mineral Springs that
have undoubted therapeutic value, but only a few of them are con-
ducted on the European Spa principle.
 

 

THE MINERAL SPRINGS OF CALIFORNIA

To each of these I have devoted several pages of illustrated text;
many more should, by reason of the medicinal value of their water,
come into this class, but in most cases the establishment lacks the
adequate facilities for giving the necessary hydro-therapeutic treat-
ments, and therefore I have only very briefly described them, and
have not given the analyses of their waters: as a matter of fact at
present they should be classed as pleasure resorts, being as a rule
only open during the summer months.

This state of things will undoubtedly be remedied in time, as
people not only from all parts of the United States, but literally
from all over the world are just beginning to realize the intrinsic
value of the natural mineral waters of California.

The present population of California is about two and one-half
millions, whereas it is capable of supporting forty million inhabitants.

A well known writer speaking of the mineral springs of this State
says: It is but one more link in the chain of evidence that God has
been good to California, for not only has He given gold and other
wealth, but the priceless jewel of health-giving waters in her mineral
springs.”
 

 

SPRINC

ADAMS
LAKE COUNTY

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

“All hail to the grand old mountains,
With their green and glittering dress,
Fit type for a vouthful country,
In its pride and loveliness.”

CHAPTER XIV.

% <3 F the fifty-eight counties into which the State of Cali-
i fornia is divided, LAKE is one of the most beautiful.
It has been well called the Switzerland of America.
) Being situated in the heart of the Coast Range of
Mountains, its remoteness from the railroad lends to
it an additional charm. The date of its creation was
May 20, 1861; its population in 1910 was 5,526, with a land
area of 1,278 square miles, or 817,920 acres. Nearly the whole
of this region is dotted with beautiful sheets of water, the largest

of them being Clear Lake.

This lake is the most extensive body of fresh, or sweet water on
the Pacific Slope, being twenty-five miles long, two to nine miles
broad, covering an area of sixty-four square miles. The surface
of this water is 1,325 feet above the sea-level. Rugged mountains
and fertile valleys surround the lake, while on its shore are situated
many beautiful country homes. Loch Lomond, the largest of the
Scottish lakes, is exactly the same length as Clear Lake, but it is
not quite so broad. Lakeport, the county-seat of Lake County, is
situated on the edge of the lake at its broadest part. On the south
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

side of the lake rises Mount Konocti, known locally as ‘‘Uncle
Sam’’; from its summit, which is 4,246 feet above sea-level, a most
beautiful view of lake, valley, and mountain may be had. But the
highest peak in this part of the Coast Range is Mount St. Helena,
which has an elevation of 4,343 feet above the sea-level. The
Russian naturalist Wosnessemsky first ascended it in the year 1841,
and named it after Helena, Empress of Russia. Robert Louis
Stevenson spent two summers on the side of Mount St. Helena, and
wrote his “Silverado Squatters” in the Old Toll-House which is
close to where the present Mount St. Helena Inn now stands. It
was a two-story structure, and on its porch Stevenson used to wait
for the stage that brought him his mail. A monument to him has
now been erected on the site of this old Toll-House; it is in the
form of a great desk supporting an open book, cut out of Scotch
granite. The little mining settlement of Silverado has disappeared.
Stevenson loved this part of Lake County, and in his “‘Silverado
Squatters” described the scenery about Mount St. Helena as fol-
lows: “It is the Mount Blanc of one section of the Coast Range.
It looks down on much intricate country. It feeds in the spring-time
many splashing brooks. From its summit you have an excellent
lesson in geography, seeing to the south San Francisco Bay, with
Tamalpais on the one hand, and Mount Diablo on the other; to
the West and thirty miles away the open ocean; east-ward and
across the corn-lands and thick tule swamps of Sacramento Valley,
to where the Central Pacific begins to climb the sides of the
Sierras; and northward, the white head of Shasta looking down on
Oregon. Three counties, Napa, Lake and Sonoma, march across
its cliffy shoulders. Its naked peak stands nearly 4,500 feet above
the sea. Its sides are fringed with forest, and the soil, where it is
bare, glows warm with cinnabar.”

Lake County is remarkable in having so many mineral springs
and health resorts within its borders. The principal of these are
Adams, Allen, Anderson, Bartlett, Blue Lakes, Bonanza, Crab-
tree, Castle, Gordon, Glenbrook, Harbin, Highland, Howard,
Hoberg, Hough, Laurel Dell, Newman, Seigler, Soda Bay, Spiers,
Saratoga and Witter.
“THE SPRING THAT MADE LAKE COUNTY FAMOUS’

ADAMS SPRINGS.

These springs are in the depths of a primeval forest, and yet
they are easily accessible. They form one of the group of springs
that make the centre of Lake County a hot-bed of subterranean
wonders. Adams Springs are unique in their own peculiar way.
The advertisements claim that these springs are the ones that made
Lake County famous. Be this as it may, they are certainly famous
now in California. Their popularity is due to two things—the
therapeutic value of the mineral water, and the length of time
(nearly thirty years) it has been in the hands of one proprietor,
who thoroughly understands his business.

Adams Springs are situated in the highest part of the county,
being 3,300 feet above the sea-level. The hotel and grounds at
Adams have been recently equipped with electric light, and the
effect at night, when the fairy-like chain of lighted lamps is strung
above the grounds, is most pleasing in its effect. The beauty of
combined forest, hill and stream is greatly augmented by these stars
as they shine in the gloomy depths of the great trees. They illu-
minate the extensive grounds from end to end, and the farthest
cottages enjoy their beacon light. The cottages are scattered
through the narrow canon wherever they can gain a foothold.
The main hotel is an old two-story building with a new dining-room
as an annex. [lhe office, billiard-room, card-rooms, and about
twenty bedrooms are in this building, while across the street, so to
speak, is another commodious building for guests, and beyond this
are paths leading to cottages perched high on the hillside. The
stage-road winds round the cafion in which Adams snuggles, while
tents and cottages dot the way for some distance.

The post-office and bath-houses adjoin the main building. A
pine forest of 10,000 acres in extent surrounds Adams, of which
660 acres belong to the Springs. The swimming-pool is situated on
an eminence above the hotel. The dancing pavilion is also on the
hillside a little way from the swimming-pool; it is generally well
patronized, and occasionally a moving-picture show precedes the
dance. Motor trips to the adjacent springs are taken daily, and
sometimes a drive is indulged in on moonlight nights through the
scented forests.

Kelseyville, Lakeport and Konocti Landing, which is only nine
miles away, make enjoyable and beautiful trips. Clear Lake also
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

offers an attractive object for an excursion, as steam launches can be
hired for trips across its shining waters. Beautiful Cobb Valley,
tucked away in the high mountains, is only two miles away, while
three miles further on is the pretty little hamlet of Glenbrook.
Seigler’s, Howard Springs, Hoberg’s Resort and Anderson and
Harbin Springs are so situated that guests can go to any or all of
them by motor-car and return to Adams in time for either luncheon
or dinner.

While dozens of captivating trails lure, perhaps the most charm-
ing of all is the trail to Grouse Spring. The ascent of the mountain
is gradual, paths diverge in all directions, calling with their faint air
of mystery. All human habitations are left behind, it is a veritable
sea of green, and the illusion is carried still farther by the soughing
of the wind in the tree-tops, it sounds like that of distant surf.
Above, below, and all around is this mystical sea of green. One is
remote from all life except the creatures of the woods. The air
is filled with that fragrant aromatic odour which the mingled
varieties of oak, pine, madrones and bay give. The path is sur-
prisingly well-kept, and no overhanging branches trap the unwary,
although the branches of the trees are interlaced high overhead.

The path leads on through dell and glade, sometimes up on the
hillside, and again down in the depths of the ravine. After a time
it merges into the ““wood road” and straight to a woodchopper’s
sylvan abode beside a running stream with a spring above its bed.
This spring is called “Grouse Spring” because the grouse came in
great numbers to drink; for a time, however, the poor birds came to
direct slaughter, as the clever huntsman got to know their habits;
now they are given protection, and they flutter about the spring
unafraid.

The Madrone (Arbutus Menziesii) is a shrub belonging to the
heath family; its flowers are in large white-waxen clusters of rather
large scarlet-orange berries with rough granular coats. It flourishes
exceedingly well in these parts, and it is said that Bret Harte wrote
most of his poem on the “Madrone’” upon a hillside not far from
“Grouse Spring.”

Among the many varieties of trees to be found at Adams
Springs the white pine easily takes the lead. It dominates and
dwarfs all other trees by its great height and girth. It is not unusual
for them to attain a growth of three hundred feet. The sugar pine,
 

THE TREES AT ADAMS

the yellow, and the digger or nut pine grow also in great profusion
in these woods. Cedars are scarce. Madrones are somewhat plenti-
ful, while dogwood, maple, fir and oak grow straight and tall.
There is an old saw-mill near the springs that was operated as long
ago as 1860, but to all appearances the forest is virgin. Adams
has many attractions, and has perhaps the largest quota of guests of
any resort in Lake County. Those that do not come by their own
automobile, arrive on the stage that runs between Calistoga and
Lakeport, it brings the mail and the San Francisco morning papers,
and is timed to reach the springs about four o’clock in the afternoon.
The season is from May to November. Good fishing during the
season is to be had in the streams, and hunters sometimes bring down
a deer. Small game is abundant.

The main spring at Adams is situated a few yards above the
hotel. It is enclosed by a frame building, the water being dipped
from a small pool for drinking, it is also piped to a bottling house
below the hotel. This water is used on the grounds only for drink-
ing. It is cool and sparkling and belongs to the alkaline-carbonate
class. The temperature of the water as it issues from the spring is
about 55° F., and the flow about half a gallon a minute. It has a
peculiar petroleum-like odour and taste, and is par excellence a
“stomach water’.

For persons suffering the many ills attendant on chronic dyspep-
sia, portal congestion, cirrhosis of the liver in its early stages, and
possibly in some forms of Bright's disease, this water would undoubt-
edly be of sovereign service. In chronic metritis also it is of value.
Its three chief salts are Carbonates of Magnesium, Sodium and
Calcium; it also contains in smaller amounts Carbonate of Iron,
Silica and Sodium Chloride. The water is naturally carbonated.
Facilities are provided for hot and cold bathing. The altitude at
this spring being over three thousand feet insures dryness and purity
of atmosphere. The cuisine is good, and the dietary can be
adjusted to suit individual cases. The resort has its own dairy and
cattle. To reach the springs take Southern Pacific Railway from
San Francisco to Calistoga, then stage, or Calistoga can be reached
by boat from San Francisco to Vallejo, then by electric car.

As at European Spas, many make the pilgrimage year after
year. A sojourn at Adams Springs will long be remembered.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

AETNA SPRINGS.

Aetna Springs are at the upper end of a pretty valley in Napa
County. The property, which borders Pope Creek, formerly be-
longed to the Aetna Quicksilver Mining Company; the locality at
one time was very rich with this metal. Shortly after the closing
of the mines, it was noticed that the water in one of the tunnels was
strongly mineralized, and in 1878 Aetna first became a resort for
the use of this water. Since that time the property has been greatly
improved, and the patronage at the place has steadily grown. Aetna
is sixteen miles distant from the pretty town of St. Helena.

The portals of the grounds at Aetna Springs consist of a huge
gateway built of stone. The grounds are extensive and cultivated
with blossoming shrubs, fragrant flowers and ornamental trees. The
buildings at the springs are large and commodious, modern and
comfortable, and consist of several cottages, a club house, reception
hall, and dining hall. A bath-house and a swimming plunge have
been erected beside the creek.

The water of all the five springs at Aetna belongs to what is
known as the carbonated class. It is distinctly mineralized and
thermal.

Two of the springs, called respectively Summerhouse and Amer-
ican Ems, are situated on the southern bank of the creek, cemented
basins surround them and a spring house protects them. They are
similar springs. About half a mile to the northeast of the creek are
two more springs, the Potassium Spring and the [-Ador-A Spring;
the fifth is the Tunnel Spring now no longer in use.

All of the springs are highly beneficial in those cases requiring
the salts of Sodium, Potassium and Magnesium; the Summerhouse
water contains in addition Carbonate of Iron. The Potassium
Spring and the I-ador-a Spring furnish the water for bottling. The
temperature of the American Ems Spring is 98° F. The chief uses
of these waters are in the treatment of chronic catarrhs of the throat
and air passages; in these affections they should be drunk, used in
the form of inhalations and sprays, and gargles, and also bathed in.
In certain forms of gout, especially in the acid dyspepsia of the
gouty, or those cases that are associated with bronchial catarrh or
urinary calculi this water would be beneficial. The bottled waters
of Aetna are sparkling, tonic and slightly aperient. Beneficial results
are reported in rheumatism and neuralgia.
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VALLEY OF THE MOON

~~
AGUA CALIENTE.

These springs are located in Sonoma County, between two
mountain ranges in a flat, beautiful valley sixteen miles from Santa
Rosa, and three miles south of the town of Sonoma. The two
lovers in Jack London's interesting story, “The Valley of the
Moon”, after wandering from place to place in search of an ideal
spot on which to build a home, selected a site near these springs.
Luther Burbank also chose this valley as being the most suitable for
carrying on his experiments with plants and flowers.

The resort has a main building in which is the dining-room and
other offices; clustered round are many cottages, each designed for
its specific purposes. The swimming tank is a large one, and is
supplied with natural hot sulphur water. There are fifty porcelain
tub baths, as well as shower and electric baths. Agua Caliente is
distinctly a sulphuretted saline spring. In all there are five separate
springs, ranging in temperature from 100° F. to 115° F.; they are
much alike both in concentration and character. The chief salt is
Sedium Chloride. To drink this water and use it in the form of a
bath would be beneficial in cases of rheumatism; it could also be
used as a blood purifier, and in certain gastric ailments. Accommo-
dations can be provided for about three hundred people. The
springs have for years bottled their water, and placed it on the
market for table use; it can be had both carbonated and natural.
The distance from San Francisco is forty-five miles.

 
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

ALHAMBRA SPRINGS

The ALHAMBRA SPRINGS are situated in a ravine about six
miles by road south of Martinez. There are on the property three
springs. [he water from number one spring is strongly saline and
sulphated, and together with that of spring number two is piped to
tanks and from there to the bottling works at Martinez. The water
from the spring known as ‘‘Alhambra” is also bottled; it contains
the salts of Sodium, Magnesium and traces of Iron and Aluminum.

These waters have been on the market since about 1898, and
have been bottled both carbonated and still. Martinez is the county
seat of Contra Costa County, and is situated in the beautiful
Alhambra Valley. The late John Muir for many years had a
home near Martinez as also did John Swett, the veteran educator.

The Alhambra bottled Mineral Water is a tonic table beverage.

ALLEN SPRINGS.

At an elevation of 1,800 feet in the narrow cafion of Allen
Creek in the Coast Range of Mountains in Lake County, are the
Allen Springs.

They are three miles east of Bartlett Springs and about forty
miles west of the town of Williams. The small hotel is beautifully
situated in the cafon-recess, being surrounded by old oaks, tower-
ing pines and evergreen hills.

The atmosphere is dry and bracing, and even on the hottest days
the evening air is cool and pleasant. Fogs are very rare.

Allen has five principal springs and several minor ones. Of the
former, two are ferruginous and three alkaline. All are pleasantly
erated and cold. The Chalybeate Spring is the chief one, and
yields about five gallons a minute with a temperawre of 63° F.—
the iron in suspension rendering the water turbid. The spring known
as “‘Sureshot” is the most strongly mineralized, its chief salts being
Magnesium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride and Magnesium Chloride.
The flow is a small one and its therapeutic value antacid, laxative
and diuretic. The Iron Spring in addition to Ferrous Carbonate
contains magnesia and soda, and its action is tonic and alterative.
 

rr ————————

{

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LIKE AN OLD ENGLISH ESTATE

ANDERSON SPRINGS. 25

For many years this place has been a favourite resort, not only
because of its mineral waters but because of its quiet, restful
environment.

It is situated in Lake County, five miles northwest of Middle-
town and nineteen miles by stage road from Calistoga. The prop-
erty which surrounds the springs, consists of about four hundred
acres and has been in the Anderson family for over forty years; it
reminds one of an old English estate. Simplicity and homeliness
are its main characteristics, in spite of the fact that the resort is
sadly in need of being rejuvenated. The central executive building
is surrounded by numerous cottages and in case of need could
accommodate upwards of one hundred guests. The canon in which
the nine springs are situated, is wooded and very sheltered, while the
streams are diversified by waterfalls. The mountain air, clear and
cool, with no fog and no mosquitoes, helps to make Anderson’s
Springs a delightful health and pleasure resort during the summer
and autumn months. The moonlight nights both here and at all the
Lake County springs of altitude are marvelously beautiful.

The main drinking spring is the ‘“‘cold sulphur”, the action of
its water is aperient, diuretic and alterative.

The Iron Spring is tonic, alterative and restorative.

Perhaps the most valuable of all the springs at Anderson’s 1s the
hot sulphurous bathing-spring (146° F.) for rheumatism, chronic
joint swellings and skin diseases. The inhalation of the hot sul-
phurous steam would be beneficial in chronic bronchitis and catarrhal
affections of the nose and throat.

A unique spring known as “The Sour Spring’ contains free
Sulphuric Acid; it has a reputation of being highly beneficial in
heemorrhages and certain forms of alcoholic dyspepsia. The water
is not unpleasant to drink, in fact the peculiar acid taste it has is
rather pleasant.

The incrustations that cover the big boulders and rocks that are
a feature of Anderson’s, are carefully gathered, dried and powdered.
The powder is used as a specific for catarrh.
     

a Su? " 3 PER "
THE MYSTERIOUS ARROW HEAD ENGRAVED BY NATURE ON THE MOUNTAIN SIDE
 

SAN BERNARDINO VALLEY

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

(continued)

“Some god once plucked a fiery dart
And hurled it in the hill’s green heart—
Some god that in the long ago,

The healing waters caused to flow.”

CHAPTER XV.
ARROWHEAD. ¥

220) HE snow-crowned monarchs that have as their foot-

~ABFSD stools San Bernardino’s Valley of Romance, rank

a e oi among the greatest mountains of the world.

N=L The sailor sees them from the deck of his ship on
the blue waters of the Pacific a hundred miles away,
and on land the beckoning dome of San Gorgonio

illusionizes the traveler to the last, appearing always near, yet

seemingly as unattainable as ever with each approaching mile, until
at last it towers over the very streets of San Bernardino town—
though a great plain intervenes.

Away to the right of San Gorgonio stands San Jacinto, to the
left is San Antonio, thus belting the Valley of Romance by a mighty
panorama of everlasting hills, beautiful beyond poet's song, or
painter’s picture!

These are the Mountains of Mystery that have seen Time with
its countless years gather to dust races of men, and with them what
they have wrought. In the caves and caverns and scars of these
great hills are traces of temples and broken cities, buried and
reburied, hidden and again cast up from pasts that go back to chaos
itself.

Perhaps nowhere else on the face of the globe has nature pro-
duced a phenomenon so mysterious and so startling as the prehistoric
landmark known as the Arrowhead, so clearly pictured at a height
of 3500 feet upon the mountain side, six miles northeast of the
town of San Bernardino

-
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

There are mountains elsewhere that are marked with what are
purported to be symbols, but they all require a more or less generous
stretch of the imagination. This is not the case with the Arrowhead,
for it is as though a giant had torn an arrowhead from a shaft in
his quiver and had hurled it flat into the great green hill: it points
downwards, is 1375 feet long, 449 feet wide and covers an area
of seven and one-half acres; the soil covering its surface differs in
formation from the adjacent parts, being composed mostly of decom-
posed granite; the vegetation is of a light green color and consists
chiefly of white sage and weeds; this growth and soil confine them-
selves absolutely to the perfect outline of the Arrowhead, there being
a distinct line of demarcation, more noticeable from a distance,
between the junction of the area of the arrowhead with the soil
which, so to speak, forms its setting, as it is of a much darker color
and supports a growth of dark thick chapparal, chamise and grease-
wood.

The Argonauts of '49 tell us that the Arrowhead Mountain was
there when they first saw California; the Mormon pioneers of San
Bernardino Valley say it antedates their coming; the Franciscan
Padres saw it a hundred years ago, just as we see it now, and the
Indians told the first white man that their fathers had climbed to its
great shadows to drink and to bathe in the healing waters that still
leap from its crevices.

The question naturally arises, was the Arrowhead there when
the mountain first rose from the flood, or was it wrought, afterwards,
by some wonderful race of men in a dim age of the past? Is it
destined to await the end of all things, or will it suddenly disappear
as mysteriously as it came?

The mystery of this strange and beautiful mountain is deepened
when one realizes the fact that the Arrowhead is the most universal
of symbols. All Arrowheads are fashioned more or less from the
same pattern.

Wherever savage man made an arrowhead, he made it exactly
on the design with which we are all familiar, so that if it were the
intention of the invisible power that branded the mountain to draw
the attention of all men to it, no more effective symbol could have
been used than the Arrowhead!
 

THE ORIGIN OF THE ARROWHEAD

Not a few believe that this natural mark was made by a moun-
tain cloudburst, and explain it by stating that a great volume of
water struck the earth at the top of the Arrow, and, rushing down,
formed the shank, then, obstructed by some accumulated mass of
debris, if overflowed on each side, advancing with terrific force until
the overflow was confined by entering the wedge-shaped configura-
tion upon the mountain side and the point of the arrow was thus
shaped.

Numerous legends dealing with its supernatural creation have
been extant among the Indian tribes ‘and early settlers for many
generations—the following is, perhaps, one of the most interesting:

Ages and ages ago, so this legend runs, the Indians inhabiting
the beautiful San Bernardino Valley, called by them Guachina, a
“place of plenty,” waxed strong and prosperous because of the fer-
tility of the soil and the abundance of the streams that watered it.
They were mighty in the land, and, becoming selfish and proud in
their arrogance, forgot the All-Ruler, the bestower of their abund-
ance and power. Then was the Great Father displeased at their
ingratitude, and thereupon sent down upon the people a hot, fierce
spirit from the Sun-land, who blighted their vegetation, drank of
their streams until only the sand beds were left, and drained their
lakelets till only salt and bitter waters remained therein. Then did
the people gather in council, building huge fast fires and making
offerings to appease the anger of the Great Spirit. But the scorching
blast continued, parching the land, and all green things shrivelled,
the hot earth baked and crumbled, the herds and flocks perished,
the Sun monster leaving only heaps of bleaching bones. Then were
the people visited with pestilence and with famine. Although they
constantly prayed and made peace offerings for the abatement of
the fury of this consuming heat monster, their supplications were
unanswered. The wailing Indians at length, driven to dire extremity,
knelt with outstretched arms, and bowing to the ground, offered to
make any sacrifice—even to the forfeiture of the most precious life
in the tribe—if only relief might be granted them from the deadly
visitation of this devouring pest.

Now, the chief is alleged to have been father to an only
daughter, Ne-wah-na, by name, maiden of the new moon—the
fairest and most beloved of all tribeswomen. Finally, in answer
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

to his last appeal, a voice floating from out the broad expanse of the
skies bore this message: “Give Ne-wah-na as an offering to
heaven.” Silence fell upon the stricken Indians as their chief, rising
above his devotions, slowly went to his wickiup. There he carefully
wrapped his daughter in her richest robes, and, adorning her with
golden trinkets, obedient to the mysterious voice, led her forth,
leaving her alone to meet the fiery wrath of the destroyer. When
the sacrifice was completed, and Ne-wah-na was consumed, the
heavens opened and immediately a white arrow of light shot out and
struck down the heat monster; others followed, until finally one
struck the mountain side, and there left its mark. Then was the
blessed rain poured from above, the water once again cooling the
parched earth and running in the empty beds of the streams. The
heat monster writhed in agony under the copious, cooling downpour,
until the earth opened to swallow him. As it closed again, streams
of boiling water bubbled from the rock crevices, and the famine and
pestilence-smitted people, drinking deep of the steaming waters, and
bathing in them, were healed. © Thenceforth the humbled dwellers
of the valley lived for generations in peace and plenty at the foot
of the arrow-marked mountain.

The first white man’s exact recorded information regarding the
San Bernardino Valley goes back to the days of 1774; yet the
Valley is as old as the world and doubtless primal man dwelt in it.
As we are indebted to the brown, wandering, pioneering priests
of St. Francis for what we know of California’s first glimpses of
Caucasian civilization, so are we indebted to them and their carefully
kept record for our first information concerning the San Bernardino
Valley. In the year 1774, two years before the Liberty Bell rang
out its fateful music of freedom on the shores of the Atlantic,
Captain Juan Batista de Anza, commanding the Presidio of Tubac,
set out from the far south to blaze a trail from Sonora to Monterey.
His expedition from Tubac consisted of 240 men and women and
1050 beasts; for many days and weeks they marched, fighting their
way across deserts and mountains, until on a day of glory in the
Spring-time they reached the mountain passes and looked down on
the Valley of Romance dreaming between the mystic mountains
upon whose shining walls blazed the great Arrowhead. As he
passed he named every ford and river, every hill and mountain for

 

 

 

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LEGENDS OF THE ARROWHEAD

some loved Saint. The first of his race, Captain Juan knelt in this
Valley, and from the passion of his overwhelmed soul called it for

the foster father of Jesus—Valle de San Joseph.

Then, as now, no man had ever seen a fairer spot! Above,
serene, immutable and radiant, glowed the great mountains. Down
from the heart of the Emerald hills leaped crystal streams, flashing
like jewels in the Sun, singing to the rocks and laughing to the
nodding wild flowers on the way. In that Spring-time was spread
for the feet of Juan de Anza a carpet of glory, composed, as it is
today, of gentians, poppies, mallows, phlox, verbenas, orchids, Mari-
posa lilies and wild roses. And when the Captain of Tubac knelt
on that royal carpet to lift his heart to the God of Things he
lacked not for altars at which to pray, for on the hillslopes were
countless yuccas—each with its thousand creamy bells. In the old
times men were near to God. On the green altars of the hills the
Conquistadore saw the shining yuccas and called them “La Lampara

de Dios”’—“The Candles of the Lord.”

Juan Batista states that the Indians of the Valley of San
Bernardino, among whom he camped for two or three days, called
the Valley ‘“‘Guachina,” which means “The Place of Plenty.” He
further described it as being “well watered and lush with grass,
enough to have fed thrice a thousand such herds as formed his
expedition.” The wild grape, the wild currant, and the wild goose-
berry grew in lavish profusion, and game of all kinds was in more
than abundance. In their chronicles the Spaniards record the
Indians of the Valley as being extremely indolent, regarding any
manner of physical exertion as being absolutely unnecessary and
undignified. If they were hungry they had but to reach out their
hands and fill them with fruit and fish and fowl; to them the great
world was far away, and they had not learned to burden themselves
with civilization. If they became afflicted with the ills of the flesh,
they had but to seek the Great Arrowhead, drink the magic waters
leaping from its heart, bathe themselves therein also, and go back
again to the Villages of the Valley as well as ever, and none the
worse for a pleasant vacation from the cares of a life of nothing
to do.

The Padres at San Gabriel having heard so much from Captain
Juan de Anza about the Guachinas, decided to attempt to Christ-
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

ianize them, besides the road which Captain Juan had opened from
Sonora, now needed a station. This object was finally accomplished
by a band of missionaries, soldiers and neophytes under the leader-
ship of Padre Dametz. They rechristened the ‘‘Place of Plenty,”
calling it San Bernardino in honor of St. Bernard of Sienna, the
day of their arrival being his feast day—the 20th day of May,
1810.

On several occasions subsequently, the Franciscans were forced
to abandon the footholds they had gained in San Bernardino. The
Guachinas were inconstant, sometimes friendly, sometimes hostile and
violent through superstitious fear, or savage dislike of the invaders.
The other desert tribes who came up through the mountain passes
to “‘take the waters’ at the Arrowhead, were not averse also to the
killing of the Missionaries, who were always brave and persistent,
and finally were able to establish a Mission that held its ground,
the remains of which still exist near Redlands, surrounded by
orange and lemon trees, the perfume of whose blossoms is not
sweeter than the memory of the brown priests who made holy with
their blood the ancient trails of the Valley of Romance.

Then came the days of Mexican, Yankee and Mormon pioneers
who broke through the snowy passes and gazed spellbound on a
valley the like of which had existed for them only in the fairyland
dreams of childhood.

In the City of San Bernardino there are still the evidences of
bloody days of battle, of Indian attacks and frontier gun fights in
which the men of the ranches and the miners from the mountains
played strenuous parts.

Entrancing, however, as was the romance of the past, it pales
before the romance of today. The Mountains of Mystery still tower
over San Bernardino, as beautiful and as sublime as ever. The
mystic Arrowhead, still mystic and inexplicable, looks down on the
sunlit valley, still keeping the secret of its birth more jealously than
the Sphinx, still pouring the tides of life-giving waters from its
glowing heart.

Nothing has been lost and much has been gained. If the
Guachina could come back to his “Place of Plenty” he would
now see it transformed into Daphnean groves where glow the golden
apples of Hesperus; he would hear the song of the reaper on the

 

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DISCOVERY OF ARSENIC AT ARROWHEAD SPRINGS

harvest plains that hedge in a great city and large towns; he would
see that man is aiding nature to coin for him great wealth. From
the hilltops and the white peaks he would behold the new race that
is transforming the Valley of Romance into a Paradise where
wealth and beauty go hand in hand, where the soul is satisfied, and
where Opportunity stands ever waiting for new doors at which to

knock.

Shrouded in such mystery, it is not difficult to realize that the
mountain from whose recesses burst springs as efficacious as any in
the world, should have been marked with the symbol of the Arrow-
head, and still more remarkable is it that the apex of the Arrow
appears to point directly to a spring whose waters are among the
hottest in the world!

It was only quite recently that I discovered that these waters
contained Di-Sodium Arsenate, and that the Waterman Spring
which feeds the Steam Caves also contained Arsenic.

The Arrowhead Hot Springs of California are situated in San
Bernardino County, 68 miles East of Los Angeles and 7 miles
North of the City of San Bernardino, on the southern slope of the
Arrowhead Mountain, which is a spur of the Sierra Madre Range.

Southern California, or as it has been called, ‘‘the Italy of
America,” is shut off from the desert by the mother mountains
(Sierra Madre) which bound it on the North and East, while its
South and West edges are washed by the waters of the Pacific
Ocean. There are three passes through this huge range that towers
from five to twelve thousand feet above the sea level, and culminates
in the white crest of Mount San Bernardino, 11,725 feet above the
ocean. San Fernando Pass on the West is used by the Southern
Pacific Railroad as an outlet to San Francisco; the Cajon Pass
(elevation 4,199 feet) by the Santa Fe and Salt Lake roads. All
passengers coming through this pass can see the ‘““Arrow’ on the
mountain side by looking out of the windows on the East side of
their cars as they approach San Bernardino; in like manner all
travelers over the Southern Pacific route, through the San Gorgonio
Pass from the East, can see the Arrowhead from the windows on
the North side of their cars. Electric cars running direct to the
Springs meet the overland trains at San Bernardino, and daily, each
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

way, eight electric cars, in addition to the regular train service, are in
operation between Los Angeles and Arrowhead.

Nature has placed these Springs at the happy medium of alti-
tude of 2,000 feet, just high enough to benefit the asthmatic, and to
insure pure air and fine views. The personal holdings of the Arrow-
head Hot Springs Company amount to nearly two thousand acres,
being twice as large as that of the famous U. S. reservation known
as the Arkansas Hot Springs. The property is also fortunate by
being surrounded on the North, East and West by the United
States Reservation, the two forming a public park unequalled in
extent, altitude and picturesqueness by any known European Spa.

Canyons penetrating deep into the heart of the ranges, radiate
from the Hotel, which is so situated that from its front windows and
porches one looks down on the valley called by the Indians “the
Place of Plenty,” and now covered, like a checkerboard, by cul-
tivated ranches that occupy the level lands from Redlands on the
East, nearly to Los Angeles on the West, a distance of over sixty

miles, and extending South to a range twenty miles beyond
Riverside.

Here and there hills rise from the plains like islands in the sea,
hills that gleam with crops of green and gold, or form a brown
background with their robes of heather. It is a picture of sun-
kissed meadows, groves filled with golden oranges, and gardens
riotous with flowers. The clearness and purity of the air bring
distant objects near and give a vividness to detail that is a constant
source of surprise and pleasure. The changes of foliage mark the
differences of elevation as one climbs up from the sub-tropical to
almost Alpine heights. Some of the canyons are two to three hun-
dred feet deep, opening out into delightful nooks and coves, whilst
overhead are the arches formed by the branches of the heavy tree
growth—sycamores, maples, oaks, alders, pines, cedars and junipers.

The Hot Springs of Arrowhead are more or less confined to a

strip of ground a few hundred feet wide and something over half a
mile long.

This ground is easily distinguished by its patches of bulrush
(Sciopus Occidentalis), known locally as the tule, and by the
various forms of plants and flowers stimulated into luxuriant growth

 

 
 

GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS AT ARROWHEAD

by the warm waters. Where the ravines cut deep down through this
strip the steam issues at innumerable places; at the Eastern end of
the belt is found what are called the Palm Springs, thence the belt
curves westward across Penyugal Canyon—in which is the Penyugal
Hot Spring—terminating on the East side of the Waterman Canyon
where are the steam caves. The Granite Spring is situated on the
top of the mesa between the Penyugal Spring and the Waterman
Canyon. The cause of the boiling temperature of waters is found
in rocks of igneous origin, for chemical reaction, as a source, has
played a very small part; the hot water belt at Arrowhead marks
the outcrop of a dyke of igneous rock of granitic character, yet
differing markedly from the granites it has pushed up through.
The footwall of this zone, or dike, is plainly seen in the canyon near
the Penyugal Spring, the general dip being about 65 degrees
towards the South. The hanging wall is seen about 400 feet
farther down the gulch. This igneous formation was pushed up
from below ages ago, and the portion deep down in the earth, under
constant enormous pressure, requires ages to cool a few degrees.
As the Sierra Madre range is very slowly rising with the rest of
this portion of the Pacific Coast, it is probable that under this
pressure the igneous rocks may maintain their present temperature
for a period of time beyond our conception.

Rocks seem solid to the hasty observer, but nowhere are the
rocks beneath the mantle rock so compact and so free from cracks,
when any considerable area is considered, as to prevent the percola-
tion of water through them. The more the rocks are displaced by
disturbances such as are evident everywhere in the folded and
twisted formations of this district, the greater the opportunity for
these subterranean waters to escape. If the rocks are fine grained,
the water comes up along the slips. The variation in flow increases
with temperature, being nearly three times in volume at 100° F. as
it is at 32°. Water under pressure, and especially hot water, will
penetrate rocks that have all the appearance of being solid.

The higher the temperature of the water the more rapidly will
it flow through the interstices of the rocks and the greater the solvent
action upon the minute crystals of the minerals occurring in igneous
rocks.

It is evident, therefore, for the reasons stated, that the heat of
THE NATURAL ARSENICATED STEAM CAVES AT ARROWHEAD

 
THE PENYUGAL SPRINGS AND STEAM CAVES

the Springs is permanent so far as mankind is concerned, and that
the water containing the Arsenic Salt in solution is also permanent,
as the Penyugal Spring water now issues at almost the temperature
at which water boils at this elevation, 2,000 feet, and further,
the temperature of this same water deep down, probably 2,000 feet
or more, under the pressure at those depths and the enormous heat
of the rocks, is in all probability three hundred degrees Fahrenheit
or more. It is a recognized scientific fact that the mineral contents
of Springs are due to certain changes that have taken place far
below the surface of the earth, in depths which may be looked upon
as nature's chemical laboratory through which the waters are forced
in all directions and charged with some of the minerals to which
they come in contact. Pressure always increases the solvent power
of water with respect to minerals directly; it produces the same
effect indirectly by its effect on the solution of gases. As the water
charged with gas approaches the surface of the ground, the pressure
is retained and some of the gas escapes and such mineral matter as
was held in solution by the help of the gas is precipitated. Pre-
cipitation is also caused by waters from different sources holding
different mineral substances in solution mingling together. Some
such action probably takes place along the Arrowhead dyke as is
indicated by the precipitated minerals found along the faces of the
igneous rocks where they are exposed in the sides of the canyons.

It was the appearance of these precipitates upon the igneous
rocks, that first led me to suspect the presence of Arsenic in the
water of the Penyugal Spring and the Steam Caves. Springs are
classified first by their temperature, and next by their mineral contents.
Water having a temperature above that of the human body is said
to be hot. Any natural spring water having a higher temperature
than 70° F. is classed as thermal. A mineral water is one which
by virtue of its ingredients, whether mineral, organic or gaseous, is
especially applicable in the treatment of disease. The Arrowhead
Springs may be described as boiling, thermal, alkaline, saline and
sulphated.

The Penyugal Springs are, as I have already stated, situated in
a ravine about 500 feet northwest of the Hotel. A cement wall
has been built around the Spring, forming a well about five feet
deep, the water overflowing near the top. The water from the
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

Fuente Frio (Cold Spring), located further up the same ravine,
flows past the edge of this well. The waters of the Penyugal are
of a steel blue color as one looks down into the well, and are clear
and sparkling. The water bubbles vigorously and steam is con-
stantly rising from its surface; there is a faint smell of Hydrogen
Sulphide Gas in the escaping vapors, and a sensitive palate can
detect the taste of Sulphur in the water. The temperature of this
Spring was 196° F. taken in the well, taken at the surface it was
198° F., and taken at the orifices from which the water issued it
was 202° F. This water when cooled sufficiently to drink 1s palat-
able and pleasant and will be found to be of sovereign service
medicinally in the hands of skilled physicians who understand the
therapeutic action of Sodium Arsenate in solution as prepared in
Nature's laboratory. For many years past this water has been drank
indiscriminately by the visitors to Arrowhead, and in many instances
remarkable cures have been recorded, but this has occurred more by
chance than otherwise, as it was only at the beginning of last year
that the secret was discovered of this water's curative properties.

Di-Sodium Arsenate, in Natural Mineral Waters, acts as an
alterative; it increases the appetite and digestion, and improves the
whole nutrition of the body.

It does this, not only by increasing the secretions of the gastro-
intestinal tract, but also by checking catabolism, or in other words,
retrograde changes in the tissues of the body.

Such waters as these are especially valuable in the treatment of
chronic skin diseases, anaemic, chronic diseases of children, asthma,
and certain affections of the respiratory organs, as chronic catarrhs
of the pharynx, trachea and bronchi.

Arsenic in the form of Di-Sodium Arsenate (Na, HAs O,), as
it exists in the waters of the Penyugal Spring, and the Steam Caves,
clears the skin, and to those past middle life, acts as a stimulating
tonic to the sexual organs.

In the index of this work will be found an accurate table of
the analyses of this and all the other Springs, in parts per million,
and grains per gallon.

The output of the Penyugal Spring in 24 hours I should esti-
mate roughly to be 64,000 gallons—possibly more.
 

NATURE'S HOT BATHS AT ARROWHEAD

THE PaLm Hot SpRING.—This Spring is on the mesa just
North of the Hotel, at an elevation of 2,055 feet, and supplies the
water for the plunge bath, the bath-house adjoining the Hotel and
all the bedrooms (about 100) of the Hotel. Its temperature at
the Spring’s mouth is 180° F.

Incidentally the water from this Spring also flows through a
series of ornamental pools and baby waterfalls, showing how easily
fine effects may be secured in landscape gardening by turning to use
what is not required of this Spring’s bountiful supply. This heavy
flow comes from near, or on, the footwall of the hot belt formation
of igneous rocks, and coming out as these waters do on the top of
the table land they have formed a marsh surrounded by tules, or as
the native Spaniards call it, a “‘cienega.”” This marsh originally
covered over an acre, but the old outlines had to be modified to
make way for modern improvements.

The Mud Baths Springs are a portion of this same cienega,
and come to the surface in the marsh surrounding the Palm Spring
Reservoir on the South.

This water has the same blue gray tinge as the Penyugal and
a similar taste. It is extensively used by the cottagers living on the
mesa as well as by those living in the Hotel.

THE PLUNGE BATH oR SwiMMING PooL is about 300 feet
South of the Palm Hot Spring; it is of an oval shape and has no
roof ; the oval is 90 feet in length, by 60 feet in width; the depth
is graded from 3 to 7 feet so as to accommodate all persons; the
water is constantly flowing in and out, keeping the pool and the
waters always fresh and pure. Many of those who have taken this
luxurious out-of-doors plunge testify as to its stimulating and refresh-
ing effect.

THE GRANITE HoT SPRING.—The elevation of this Spring
is 2,020 feet and its temperature 158° F. It is situated on the top
of the mesa on the West side of the Penyugal Canyon. This Spring
rises from the same hot belt as the other, the water, however, coming
out near the hanging wall of the outcrop; it is enclosed by a rock
wall forming a small reservoir. This water is piped by gravity to
the Hotel, appearing in the Pagoda at the Southwest corner of the
main building.

 
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

The temperature of this water at the Hotel, after coming
through piping over 1,000 feet, is still 148° F., and the arising

steam is a matter of surprise to all who learn from where the water
comes.

THE WATERMAN HOT SPRINGS. a

These Springs are situated in the Waterman Canyon about

three-quarters of a mile in an air line N. by W. from the Arrow-
head Hotel. They issue from the East bank of the Canyon, at an
elevation of 1,950 feet above sea level. The East bank of this
canyon shows in section heavy conglomerate uncomformably over-
lying the igneous formation of the hot belt. The Springs issue from
the hot belt formation for a distance of several hundred feet in
length along the face of the exposed section, the waters bursting
forth at many points between the level of the creek and the base of
the conglomerate which lies from 5 to 25 feet above the creek.
Much of the water comes out along the line of contact between the
igneous formation and the conglomerate. Ideal vapor bath-rooms
can be made in several places in this conglomerate by enlarging the
present caves, and building suitable dressing and other rooms adjoin-
ing. In fact, in my opinion, now that Arsenic exists in the water
of these steam caves, the therapeutic action of this steam alone is
sufficient, if skillfully applied, to make Arrowhead famous the world
over! The hot belt formation is the same in character as in the
section exposed in the Penyugal Canyon, and these Waterman Hot
Springs are in reality the West end of the outcrop of the Penyugal,
as it cannot be traced West of the Waterman creek. The whole
thing wants developing on scientific principles, as at present all these
Waterman Hot Springs waters run practically to waste and merely
irrigate a considerable acreage below.

There is enough water here to supply the needs of a large
Sanitarium that could be wholly independent of the Arrowhead
Hotel and its adjacent group of springs! The cold waters of the
Waterman Creek would give ample supply for all non-medical pur-
poses. There is ample fall to send the water by gravity to any
desired point below where the canyon widens out to over a thousand
feet.

The creek is well wooded and the spot is an ideal one for
establishing a Spa, especially for the treatment of cases that may not

 

 
 

 

THE ‘CIENEGA’ AT ARROWHEAD

be desired at the Hotel. At the present time only at one spot has
the water been walled in so as to pipe it down to the buildings
where Governor Waterman lived many years ago; these buildings
are now converted into chicken houses where thousands of chickens
are kept to supply the tables at the Arrowhead Hotel; the hot
water is used in the incubators, as well as for all domestic purposes
at the Waterman ranch.

The Hot Mud used in the mud baths comes from the cienega
around the Palm Spring. The aborigines used the mud at this point
as far back at least as the history of this region extends. The hot
waters that come to the surface here carrying their load of mud are
on the footwall of the hot belt formation.

For ages these hot waters have been bubbling up through the
peaty material of the tule marsh until the whole mass is impregnated
with their mineral properties. The bright sunshine, the ozone and
the oxygen of the pure mountain air have cured and perfected the
mass into a healing medium of great value.

The composition of the mud is what one would naturally expect,
as it is the result of the decomposition of the granitic material of the
hot belt formation. The largest proportion of the mud comes from
the decomposition of the feldspar of the granitic rocks, intermingled
with the shreds of other substances.

The principal product of feldspar in water, under attrition, is
not sand but an impalpable mud (limon) of such tenuity as to
remain for days in suspension, and carrying a percentage of alkalies,
so that the mud used in the mud baths at Arrowhead is transfused
with the saline matter from the Palm Spring as well as its own
natural contents. The old cienega at Arrowhead has been divided
by partitions into fourteen divisions, and the mud as it bubbles up
is passed in regular rotation through these huge vats, requiring over
one year for the complete trip; this gives a full vat, or division for
each month’s supply, more than ample for the present generation and
possible increase of patronage. The object of this so-called “curing”
process of the mud is to fully destroy all organic matter, leaving only
a pure carbonaceous residue which mingles with the minerals.

Finely sieved finished mud is black, antiseptically pure, and
soft as velvet to the touch. The mud baths are stimulating to the
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

skin, promoting both secretion and excretion; as they have a high
specific gravity some portions of the waters pass through the skin
and their mineral contents are taken up by the blood, as may be
shown by testing it and the urine after and before taking the bath.*

A mud bath can be borne at a higher temperature than one of
water on account of its low conducting power of heat. It is not only
the high temperature (110°-112° F.) of the mud as used, but its
weight as well, that gives the mud pack its beneficial effect in such
affections as liver enlargement, affections of the joints of rheumatic,
gouty, syphilitic or strumous origin, and chronic skin diseases.

These baths are refreshing to those who are not afflicted with
any specific disease, but who wish to take a bath that leaves the
skin pure and sweet and as soft and velvety as a child’s.

There is an abundance of pure, cold, soft water bubbling up
from the rocks and from the mountain sides above the hot spring
belt at Arrowhead—sufficient to supply a city!

These Cold Springs are not the least of the many assets with
which Nature has endowed this Valley of Romance.

The climate at Arrowhead is a mild one, without extreme heat
in summer, or severe cold in winter. The air is not laden with
moisture, or the sky obscured with gloomy clouds, for there is an
almost constant sunshine the year round. It is the climate of
Southern California at its best. From the West and South comes
the invigorating air of the Pacific Ocean; the clear, dry air of the
desert comes through the mountain passes on the North and East.

The average temperature of the six summer months is 62 degrees
F., and of the winter 50 degrees. The warmth of the middle of
the day in summer is tempered by the afternoon sea-breeze, and the
morning and evening air has a touch of delicious coolness.

Infantile asthma, which often coincides with enlargement of
the bronchial glands, should be cured by a stay at Arrowhead.

Early, or very slightly advanced non-febrile cases of pulmonary
tuberculosis, or persons apparently threatened with that disease, will
benefit by the climate and treatment.

Persons suffering from malarial cachexia (without serious
hepatic trouble), from neuralgia of malarious origin, from Arthritis

¥See analysis of mud in Appendix.

 
 

 

THE MOUNTAIN PEAKS OF ARROWHEAD

deformans, from Neurasthenia with Anemia, and some cachectic
forms of Syphilis, will derive benefit from the waters, combined
with the tonic influence of the climate. :

Atonic forms of Gout and Rheumatism, especially if associated
with cutaneous manifestations, will do well at Arrowhead.

During the early summer of this year, Mrs. W. C. Morrow,
the author, spent for the first time, several weeks at Arrowhead, and
on her return to Berkeley wrote an interesting article on these
Springs a portion of which, with her permission, I am publishing in
the next chapter.

MOUNTAIN PEAKS IN SIGHT FROM THE
ARROWHEAD HOTEL

Arrowhead Peak ................ 4,216 feet above sea level
Cucamonga Peak ..:c.. 0... .%., 8911 *° + tx
North Baldy (Pomona) ........... 9387 © vv
Old Baldy (Pomona) oo 220205003 0142 + © =m
Son: Antonio Peale . 0... 0. .,... 10080 © =
San Bernardino Peak .............. 10,630 + = +=
San Bernardino Mountam (Grayback) . 11,723 “+ + ¢ =
San Gorgonlo Mountain ........... 11.485 © = =
San Jacmto Mountain... ........ ... 10.805 + = =
The Amrow—iop »..............., 3300 + > = oe

The 'Arvow—Dbottom .............. 2700 © © ¥ «
      

DRINKING THE GRANITE SPRING WATER AT ARROWHEAD
 

 

LE TS Re

MOUNTAINS OF MYSTERY

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

(continued)

“Give me the mountains and their thrall
That to the dreaming valleys call;
And happy are the feet that trod
The green trails of the Hills of God.

“O Hills of Glory and your dower

Of peace, serenity and power—

The Ages pass, the Centuries sleep

But still your mighty watch vou keep!”

CHAPTER XVI.
wN 1851 Brigham Young, the Mormon prophet, being

desirous of establishing a haven of refuge for his
23) Australian and European converts, sent forth emi-
gB saries to seek a fertile spot. After a journey of
<2 J8 several weeks duration in which they suffered many
hardships, they returned and told him of a wonder-

fully fertile valley. Brigham Young enjoined secrecy upon his
envoys. Shortly afterward he called his followers, and informed
them that he had dreamed a dream and had seen a vision. In the
dream he had seen a mountain with a white arrow on its side. His
vivid description and his eloquence pervaded the assemblage with
enthusiasm, and such was their faith in him that there was no
doubts entertained by them, and when he asked for volunteers to
pioneer the land a goodly number started on the perilous journey.
It was a dreary pilgrimage that led them through Utah and
Nevada, then a sterile, bare region. The journey was hazardous
and beset with difficulties. Finally the little caravan entered the
Mojave Desert, where they suffered intense hardship from the lack
of water and from the heat. They became discouraged, and
desired to retrace their steps, when an angel appeared and admon-
ished them that the goal was near. Shortly after they reached El

  
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

Cajon Pass, and there beyond them, shining in the sun, lay the
beautiful San Bernardino Valley. Clearly defined against the
background of dark green on a mountain above, was the white
ARROWHEAD, the symbol that their leader had told them they
would find. In this fertile, sun-kissed fruitful valley a flourishing
adjunct of Mormonism was founded. They occupied the valley
until 1857 when they were recalled by Brigham Young, but many
of them never returned, and in the country about the Mormon faith
grew and strengthened.

D. M. Smith, a Mormon elder, made himself a home on the
hillside in a peaceful glade not far from the mountain with the
arrow. He lived there for many years in peaceful content, and
just below the Arrow on a gentle slope is the small graveyard that
marks the spot where those pioneers sleep in the sunshine. The
place is enclosed with an iron rope fence with white-painted posts.
A large shaft of granite stands in the center of the plot and marks
the wild, picturesque place. Smith’s name, and that of his wife,
Mary Arnott Smith, as well as other names in the enclosure, are
deeply engraved on the shaft. Small white stones mark the graves
in the little plot. Over these graves clamber in luxuriant profusion
a tangle of wild flowers of Nature’s own planting. Vivid yellow
flowers mingled with the delicate lavender of the Mariposa lily;
dark blue larkspurs and Canterbury Bells vie with Painters’ Brush
and the dainty wild lobelia.

Fragile tendrils of palest green mingle with the flowers drowsing
in the sunshine. Birds carol in the branches of the tall trees, and
the wind murmurs an eternal requiem as it lazily lifts the branches,
and the leaves whisper softly. Wild things of the wood scurry
swiftly by, bees hum in the sweet sage, and above the Arrow points
calmly down.

One cannot but say a prayer for these dead people, long
crumbled into dust, as one stands near the graves in the bright sun-
shine of a perfect Sunday in June.

Far, far below stretches the beautiful valley, above and around
are the eternal hills encircling them with a loving grasp. The mur-
murings of the streams in the canyons on either side are wafted
gently to the ear, and sweet woodland scents and delicate flower
perfume comes as incense, while not far away, on the green slope

 

 

 

 

im ru
 

 

 

 

 

THE SYMBOL OF THE ARROWHEAD

of a hill, the tall trees of the yucca, with its thousands of bell-like
white blossoms, shine in the sun. The day was one of perfect
beauty, and as we paid tribute to the silent dead our voices were
hushed and our eyes grew moist.

There are still many traces of Indian occupancy at Arrowhead.
In a narrow cleft of rocks in a remote canyon are hundreds of
Arrowheads shot into the rocks so closely that to wedge in another
would be impossible.

Whether one approaches Arrowhead from one of the main
routes, or travels by motor car, or leaves the train at San Bernar-
dino, and takes the electric tram, one has a fascinating journey
diversified by beautiful scenery.

The hotel stands on an eminence, or plateau, and is visible for
miles away. Back of the plateau the Arrow points the way. It
is not incredible to believe, as did the Indians, that it was God's
hand that placed it there. The Arrowhead on the mountain has
defied time for countless ages, and is as firmly planted today as in
bygone centuries. The Arrow is the universal symbol—a primitive
weapon known to all nations and tribes.

Whatever of the many legends that cluster about this romantic
and historic spot the traveller may choose, he cannot make a mistake
in a pilgrimage to Arrowhead Hot Springs. His way leads through
golden valleys of delight and fields of enchantment. The Master
Artist used a lavish hand when He adorned beautiful, sunny Cali-
fornia, and whether it be through rugged, awe-inspiring Tehachapi
Pass, where the giant hills brood in solemn gloom, or through the
placid, pleasant levels where ‘“‘the myrtle and the orange grow,” or
where streams of pellucid water flow shaded by tall trees, there is
never a dull moment. Every one of the seasons has its own beauty
and charm. The beauty is everywhere.

It is California with its pine-clad slopes, the verdant green of
the Temescals, and the deep blue of the Sierra Madre Range, snow-
capped in winter; palms, magnolias, cypress trees, oaks, the clean
white-limbed sycamores, the alders, the white birch, and the deep
green of orange and lemon with their glossy leaves and their waxen-
white sweet-scented blossoms, perfuming the warm air; the low,
undulating hills, the fertile valleys, rich vineyards, snug little homes
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

peaceful and sweet in the brilliant sunshine, every cottage with its
own garden and orchard, and the passing pageant, magnificent in its
fascination to gaze on at will.

High up, almost piercing the clouds, is dignified Mt. San
Gorgornio, ever white with snow. Far away stands San Jacinto
robed in its glistening ermine. San Antonio, still farther away is
yet visible, indeed, all the wonderful galaxy of mountains in a seem-
ingly endless chain.

These stately peaks and others equally beautiful, sentinel the
Valley of Romance, as it is called, and these peaks and their
kindred mountains all blend and make the Mountains of Mystery.
It is they who make this region so attractively unique. But to
Arrowhead alone belongs the title “The most mysterious mountain
in all the world.”

Below the province of Arrowhead, set like jewels in a shimmer
of emerald, are many small towns, several of them cities—River-
side—with its magnolias and orange groves, its polo grounds, and
its wonderful Palm Drive interspersed with magnificent magnolia
trees. It passes through a beautiful residence district and the
avenue 1s a broad highway. Redlands, with its Canyon Heights,
its splendid golf links, beautiful drives and fine hotels, its miles of
vineyards and its acres of flowers; Highland, with its State Hospi-
tal, and not far away old San Gabriel Arcangel Mission, with its
quaint bells and its massive stately architecture, its hoary old grape-
vine and its interesting history; Mt. Lowe, with its great observa-
tory, and its electric road clinging to its steep sides, and its ever-
changing scenic beauty; all these places are reached by comfortable
roads for trolley cars, steam cars, or the preferred motor car. These
places are all in easy reach of Arrowhead Hot Springs, and should
one weary of the ‘“‘dolce far niente” days there, one may choose
any one of these routes, and in a short time visit any of the charm-
ing places mentioned. Los Angeles is less than two hours by train
and parties from there are constantly motoring up to Arrowhead.
If one desires to shop, San Bernardino offers opportunity, and a
stroll through the busy place, with its 15,000 inhabitants, is pleasant
and diverting. One may return to the hotel from any of these
excursions and yet have time for an invigorating mineral or steam
bath, before the dinner hour.

 

 
} A SUMMER DAY'S IDYL AT ARROWHEAD

The view from all of the windows of the hotel is superb. There
are no undesirable rooms and no inside ones. From the front of the
hotel one glimpses the vast checkerboard of small farms and fertile
valleys spread out below, accentuated now and then with green hills.
From the rear windows are seen spacious flower beds, and a glimpse
of the Arrow, while at the eastern end, the windows give on peace-
ful meadows and ragged ravines, and tree-covered mountains over
which the sun peeps inquisitively at dawn, and the full moon rises
majestic and serene over the hills beyond, silvering everything as
l with fairy lamps.

 

 

On a Sunday in June, 1914, shortly after the discovery of
Sodium-Arsenate at the Penyugal Spring, and in the waters of the
Steam-Caves, a luncheon was given, to which were asked Professor
and Mrs. Gilbert Bailey of the Universtiy of Southern California,
representatives of the Associated Press, and newspaper men from
Los Angeles, San Bernardino, and other places.

After the repast, at which the toasts were drunk in sparkling

i ginger ale manufactured on the premises, the guests repaired to
El Penyugal Spring. The waters of El Penyugal are confined in a
cement receptacle with an opening through which flows the water in
a bluish-green hue, with a pungent odour and a vapoury incense.

Arriving at the spring, Prof. Bailey set up his apparatus, the
moving picture men adjusted their queer-looking machines, the house
doctor and the bath attendants posed, while the rest of us chose
picturesque positions on big boulders or strolled about. We were
admonished not to keep still, and we did not have to be told to
look pleasant, for one and all were delighted to be in the midst of
such an exciting scene. It was an impressive moment with an event-
ful and extraordinary setting. The gentle zephyrs touched our
cheeks softly, the murmur of the stream came in tinkling ripples, the
warm air was fragrant with all the scents of woods and flowers, and
the Arrow above, was pointing, ever pointing, to the healing spring.
The way to the Caves leads from the Arrow around another
mountain and down into another canyon. Flowers and glistening
green things bedeck the path and a superb view unfolds all the way.

Traversing the bed of the creek, which at this point is only
gravel and rocks, one reaches the wonderful Steam Caves, and
catches a glimpse of the vapour pouring forth from the rocky banks.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

Small cottages, equipped as dressing-rooms with couches to rest on,
are for the convenience of the bathers. A covered runway leads to
the Caves and one can divest one’s-self of one’s garments, and,
wrapping a sheet about one can drop it at the entrance. A heavy
curtain of hemp hangs at the opening. Lifting it one plunges into the
cave. A veritable inferno of heat greets one. The earth is too hot
to stand upon with one’s bare feet and boards and couches are
placed at intervals to stand or sit upon. One can go into the Caves
burned with the sun and covered with impurities like Naaman of
old, and come out white and clean. Sunburn disappears like magic.
Impurities drop away in the cleansing vapoury heat. Every pore is
opened and the moisture from the body falls and mingles with the
flow of hot water and steam that constantly trickles down from the
rocky sides. One cannot stand the heat long, and a quick run is
made to the resting-room, where one lies on a couch and relaxes. A
second and a third plunge follow, until one has stayed twenty
minutes, and then one emerges with a delicious langour and a desire
to live on the couch and rest before the return to the hotel is made.
After the fatigue has passed an agreeable feeling of well-being steals
over one. One's skin is like velvet, and there is a feeling of resili-
ency and buoyancy such as youth gives. Daily the fascination of
these baths grows, and gradually the jaded lines disappear, wrinkles
vanish, and the complexion freshens and glows as the rose, and the
dull, lifeless tints change into a clear, healthful colour, and one
thanks the gods on his knees for the revivifying, invigorating, health-
giving properties in the vapours of the Steam-Caves.

The action of the vapour on the skin and the ‘secretions of the
body is wonderful, and ills and aches and distempered spots are
washed away as by a magician’s hand. It is all simple and easy,
too. No philters and powders, no nauseous drugs, but Nature's
own remedies placed within the reach of all. Ponce de Leon was
a far cry away when he sought for the Fountain of Youth, for
hidden in the Sierra Madre Mountains, then an unknown and an
untried world, were the Springs of Healing and the Fountain of
Youth. In this far western land fronting upon the sundown sea,
where men came later to seek the modern Golden Fleece, they found
a greater marvel,—the El Dorado of Health, in the mineral waters
of California.

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ARROWHEAD SPRINGS IN PLACE OF EUROPEAN BADS

It is strange that the presence of Sodium-Arsenate in the waters
of El Penyugal,—the hottest spring in the world,—and in the
Steam Caves, should have been revealed, not to an American, not to
an inhabitant of the beautiful valley to which the Arrow points, not
to the man who has made Arrowhead Hotel one of the most popular
hostelries in the West, but to a man from overseas, an Englishman,
who has been led to it by devious ways, one who has traveled in
many lands. It seems almost a miracle.

Dr. F. C. S. Sanders, the discoverer, found California a won-
derful place, and he decided to explore its resources. In his
wanderings he found Arrowhead Hot Springs, traveling thither from
Berkeley where he resides. The waters attracted him at once. He
made an analysis. He also analyzed the waters of the Steam
Caves. He bathed in the recesses of the Caves and the invigorating
effect on his system made him realize their value. In El Penyugal
and the Steam Caves he found Sodium-Arsenate, both having a
wonderful flow. This discovery will eventually make Arrowhead
Springs famous, and no longer will Americans have to brave the
perils of the deep to quaff the waters of Carlsbad, Bad Nauheim,
or Eisbaden. It is not amiss to speak in this connection of the
wonderful advantage this gives Americans who have been wont to
seek health and diversion in Europe. Now that Europe is devas-
tated by a cruel war and is no longer desirable for those of alien
birth, the advantage of these healing springs should be widely cir-
culated and all afflicted of our countrymen should avail themselves
of the beneficial waters.

In Waterman Canyon is situated the farm which supplies much
that is used on the table at Arrowhead Hotel. Here are large
chicken runs, with tiny rivulets flowing through their domain. The
blue ribbon Orpingtons to be found here resemble nothing so much
as big black plumes; so befeathered and big are these fowls that
they do not seem to be mere chickens, and indeed they are blooded
stock. In their runs grow olive trees and huge sunflowers. They
eat of the fruit of these gorgeous trees and wax fat. Every variety
of fowl is to be found in this place and every one has its own yard,
sanitary and clean. In an enclosure where there are gnarled and
twisted trees and a busy little rivulet, are to be found the sedate
brown pheasants, the cock all gaudy in his brilliant plumage. His
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

demure wives regard him with awe. Close at hand is the place
where the big, fat, blue-ribbon porkers, every one with a pedigree,
have their habitation. The place is a pleasant one with a stream for
them to wallow in and oak trees with acorns to drop into their
greedy mouths. It is an ideal spot for a—pig to live in. Near at
hand is the Belgian hare run. It has irees and water running fresh
and clear. A stop at their quarters brings the whole squealing
brood to the wire netting. They come with awkward hops and
absurd cries and presently they are sitting on their haunches regard-
ing the invaders curiously. Large barns literally bursting with
fragrant new mown hay, and fine big horses, gentle and kind, sleek
fat cows in leafy meadows, a stream of running water and lush
grass to feed upon. The vegetable gardens are planted in fields of
rich, chocolate-coloured earth, warm and fecund in the sun. Lus-
cious fruits, trim rows of vegetables, fruit-trees, olive- trees, oranges,
lemons, figs, loquats and apricot, peach, plums, and apples, vine-
yards, melon-patches, tall tasseled corn and every variety of berry
grow in prodigal profusion.

The hours after luncheon are generally devoted to a siesta, and
then a healthful and invigorating bath in one of the mineral waters.
A covered corridor leads to the bath-rooms, which are sanitary and
attractive. Here, as everywhere else, vines clamber up and peep in
at the windows. One may choose any of the curative baths. A
mud bath does not sound alluring, and indeed when one is encased in
the sticky stuff one has an uncomfortable half hour. It is as
though the weight of the universe enclosed one, but after being
cleansed of it and given a salt glow or an alcohol rub and massage,
one feels that it was really worth while. Rheumatic pains vanish
and tired nerves are refreshed, and aching joints relieved. Some
prefer a plunge in the large swimming-pool outside the hotel. The
water is piped from the Palm Spring and is warm enough to be
enjoyed. The water is kept fresh and it has different depths.
Adjoining the bath is a small athletic field, where there is a running-
track with graduated hurdles. There are also punching-bags,
parallel bars and other devices.

Night descends suddenly at Arrowhead. The setting sun drops
behind the high mountains bathed in amethystine and golden tints.
The twilight is an ocean of roseate hue, and fleecy clouds lined with

 

 
 

EE

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|
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THE ARROWHEAD POINTS TO THE HEALING SPRINGS

rosy pink like a sea-shell, then, of a sudden, darkness, velvety and
black, as though a curtain had descended. After the good dinner
the guests linger for a time in the foyer. Some sit on the veranda
and inhale the scented air, and watch the lights twinkling below like
so many jewels. Some seek the writing-tables, others knit, crochet
or play at cards. The billiard tables have their adherents also, but
about ten o'clock, unless it is the night of the dances, a general
exodus is made for the stair or elevator. Most of the day has been
strenuous, and the comfortable beds invite repose.

Soon the tranquility of a mountain night settles down over the
big hotel, and all is quiet. At an early hour one is awakened by
the bird orchestra stationed in its band-stand in the tall trees. Then
comes the dawn pink-flushed and faint at first, and then with all the
radiant panoply of the colours of the prism, comes the Sun, waking
the world to new beauties, and fresh delights.

One cannot close a visit to Arrowhead Springs without going
upon the Arrow itself. The way leading there is delightful. It
wends through a Eucalyptus Grove, crosses a stream and fol-
lows a winding path up the mountain, back of the Arrow. Many
times one is forced to believe that one is going away from the Arrow,
so twisted is the path, so devious the way. At last a turn reveals
the Arrow. But the goal is not yet won. The cross set high at
the top is still far away. After a time one’s heart begins to pound
madly, the earth recedes and slips under one’s feet, one gasps rather
than breathes, but ever and upward winds the path. One may have
laughed at the stories told of the Arrow, but with feet firmly planted
on the ground disdain is banished, and a feeling of awe steals over
one, and a feeling that the place is holy ground sweeps over one,
and voices are hushed and the words of Divine Writ comes, ‘Be
still and know that I am God.” For surely it was His hand that
planted the Arrow on the mountain. The very earth and vegetation
are different.

With its head pointing downward the huge Arrowhead is a
quarter of a mile in length, and 550 feet in width. It covers an
area of seven and a half acres. The vegetation on its face is white
sage, with an occasional yellow flower and a lavender Mariposa lily,
but the prevailing effect and tone-color is white. The soil is of
grayish-white decomposed granite. The soil and growth confine
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

themselves to the perfect outline of the Arrowhead. On the extreme
right is a huge gash of white soil, and the growth outside the Arrow,
and marking it, is of a very dark green, shrubs, mesquite and
chamisal. There is not a flaw in the Arrow from barb to barb and
from point to shank. Pale flowers and the ever-prevalent lavender
Mariposa lily enliven the pale green tints. Here and there are big
white boulders, and standing gleaming in the sun are stately yuccas,
“The Candles of the Lord,” La Lampara de Dios, as the Spaniards
put it. At the very apex is planted a cross—true symbol which it is
yet hoped will supplant the symbol of war. Though the Arrow may
be the symbol best known to all men, being the primitive weapon,
slowly and surely is the Cross, that still older Symbol and far
better, taking its place, and a better and a more beautiful Way is
pointed out to all men.

One cannot be frivolous on the Arrow’s surface. One can but
wonder, and ponder the mystery of it. One can but thrill at the
thought of how it has withstood the ravages and upheavals of time.
Trees have been swept away, landslides have devastated the sur-
rounding mountains, and torrential rains have changed the course of
rivers, but the Arrow has remained unchanged, untouched and
inscrutably serene, indifferent and immovable.

One leaves its surface with regret and with emotions that cannot
be defined. Trivial things are forgotten. One looks down on the
little enclosure with its graves sheltered in the Happy Valley, the
streams and springs, and the Valley of Romance far away, and one
feels the awe and mystery of it all, while overhead the blue of the
sky, the song of the happy, careless birds, the white butterflies living
their brief hour, and all the processes of Nature going on undis-
turbed, and one realizes the smallness of man and the immutability
of time. Surely the Arrow has a meaning, and perhaps, after the
lapse of many years, just as a man from over seas found the healing
minerals in the waters, so may some one, fortunate of the gods,
find the meaning of the symbol.

While the Province of Arrowhead is a goodly one in its present
state, and one is comfortably housed and fed, and everything done
for one’s comfort, it has merely been scratched, so to speak. With
money it can be made one of the show places of the world, and the
recent discovery of arsenic in the waters will make Arrowhead

 

 
RST;

FRENCH GOVERNMENT CONFIRMS AMERICAN ANALYSES

Principality, with its Steam Caves, its El Penyugal Spring, its
Granite Spring, its Indian and Palm Springs, its Hot and Cold
Water Canyons, its mud and mineral baths, its many attractions and
unrivaled climate and topographical advantages, as famous as Vichy,
La Bourboule, Carlsbad, Baden Baden, or any of the famous
European Spas, or water-places of the world. It takes no great
stretch of the imagination to say that in a very short time, indeed,
Arrowhead will be the Mecca for all Americans. Just as at
Lourdes the sick and weary make pilgrimages seeking a miracle of
healing, so will Americans—nay, all peoples of the world,—make
pilgrimage to the healing fountains of the Mountains of Mystery.

 

  
 
  

 

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OFFICIAL ANALYSIS OF . THE PENYUGAL WATER BY THE
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SPRINGS

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BEAUTIFUL BYRON.

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

“Here’s a sigh to those who love me,
And a smile to those who hate;

And whatever sky's above me,
Here's a heart for every fate.

“Though the ocean roar around me,
Yet it still shall bear me on;
Though a desert should surround me,
It hath springs that may be won.”
Byron.

CHAPTER XVII

BYRON

  
 

J) in Contra Costa County are located the Byron Hot
/~ Springs.

The brick walls and red roofs of the new hotel
buildings stand out against the green lawns and trees
like the pattern of a Wedgewood vase. The resort
has suffered vicissitudes in the past, but undaunted and undismayed,
new buildings have arisen phoenix-like from the ashes. In July,
1912, the hotel and some of the cottages were destroyed by fire.
The place, however, was not closed during the rebuilding. These
new buildings today mark a spot which has been famous ever since
man lived in California. The Indians well knew the value of the
healing waters and the peat-mud packs. The Springs, which lie
in a small valley leading from the San Joaquin plains, are about
sixteen miles southeast of Mt. Diablo, sixty-eight miles northeast
of San Francisco, and one and one-half miles from Byron Station,
on the Southern Pacific Railway line from San Francisco to
Stockton.

The surrounding hills are composed of calcareous strata; the
valley is covered with adobe clay and white sand; the origin and
character of the springs seem to be due to the local formation of a
 
————————

 

BYRON’S FOUR SPRINGS

saline marsh. The Springs being so centrally located and easy of
access are much visited. The climate is mild and pleasant, cool,
balmy breezes sprng up from the tule lands every afternoon, making
it agreeable even on the hottest day. The elevation is about one
hundred feet above the sea level. There are at Byron about fifty
outlets or springs; some are hot, some are warm, and some are
cold, their temperature ranging from 52° F. to 122° F. Within a
few feet of each other will be found a cold carbonated spring and
a hot sulphuretted one. There are also several inflammable gas-
wells, which have been developed by sinking thirty feet or more and
erecting small receivers over them. The supply seems inexhaustible,
and would be sufficient, in case of need, to heat and light the entire
resort.

Of the numerous springs at Byron only six are in active use.
A small warm sulphur spring supplies a drinking basin in the main
grounds, and about 250 yards southeast of the hotel is the sulphur
plunge. A strong sulphuretted spring, whose temperature is 83° F.,
forms a drinking pool at one side of the sulphur plunge, and on the
opposite side is a well from which mineral water is pumped to the
bath-tubs in the hotel. Beyond the sulphur baths and sulphur
plunge is an enclosed swimming pool, known as the gas-plunge, in
which the temperature is about 88° F. Between the two bathing
establishments are two cemented drinking springs—the Hot Salt, and
the Liver and Kidney. Near the base of a low hill some two
hundred yards to the southwest is a tile-lined basin or well, marked
“Surprise Spring.” The Byron Hot Springs may, therefore, be
said to possess four important springs, the Hot Salt Spring, the
Liver and Kidney, the White Sulphur Spring, and the Black
Sulphur Spring.

The temperature of the water of the Hot Salt Spring is 122° F.,
and its three chief ingredients are Sodium Chloride, Calcium Chlor-
ide, and Magnesium Chloride. The therapeutic value of the water
of this spring, taken internally, is that it is beneficial in chronic
inflammations of the abdominal and pelvic organs. The temperature
of the water of the Liver and Kidney Spring 1s 58° F. Its four
principal salts are Sodium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium
Chloride, and Calcium Bicarbonate. The Liver and Kidney Spring,

so named on account of its action on these organs, is a valuable
SPRINGS

BYRON HOT

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water in dyspepsia, chronic liver diseases, torpidity of the bowels
and of the bile-ducts. It is exceedingly diuretic, and would be of
value in cases of temporary albuminuria, due to the excessive use of
alcohol. Its general action would be to assist the processes of elim-
ination, secretion, and excretion. A glassful taken several times a
day acts agreeably on the stomach, liver and kidneys, and would be
of marked benefit in cases of alcoholic dyspepsia.

The White Sulphur Spring contains in addition to the salts of
Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium, an appreciable
amount of Iron and Aluminum. The action of this water is tonic,
diuretic and alterative. The action of the water of the Black
Sulphur Spring is also alterative, as well as aperient and diuretic.

The Black Sulphur Spring (T. 65° F.) is said to impart to the
hair a reddish-auburn-glossy tinge if applied daily for two or three
weeks.

Byron is the only spring that I know of in the State that has its
own Hospital separated from the main establishment. The idea is
a good one, as it keeps those who are so crippled with rheumatism
or other joint affections necessitating confinement to bed or room
and requiring perfect quietude, from being annoyed by, or annoying
others not so afflicted. The Hospital contains two floors, each
floor having ten rooms and bath room; in addition to the other
necessary offices 1s a well equipped operating-room, the whole estab-
lishment being in charge of a European physician who has made
hydro-therapeutics a special study.

   

BUNGALOWS AT BYRON
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

All the baths, excepting the mud or peat bath and swimming
pools are taken on the first floor of the Hotel, so that bathers, by
means of the elevator, can pass from their rooms to the various
baths without exposure. These baths are free to guests. The large
plunge, suitable for diving and swimming, is directly over a sulphur
spring which gives the water an effervescent appearance; the effect
of this bubbling water on the surface of the body is very soothing.
These baths have been termed the ‘Baths of Beauty.” The Hotel
and Bungalows can accommodate two hundred and fifty people.
Every facility is provided for giving blanket-sweats, massage, etc.

The drinking table-water is piped from Mount Diablo to a
reservoir on a hill at the back of the tennis-court. A nine-hole golf
links is on the estate.

BIMINI

The Bimini Hot Springs came into existence fifteen years ago.
In the year 1900, while boring for oil at a depth of 1,750 feet,
within the city limits of Los Angeles, the drill passed through a
hard crust of Soda—which at the time was taken for white marble—
when unexpectedly a gushing fountain of water appeared which
ever since has maintained a flow of one hundred gallons per minute
and a temperature of 104° F. This water is a very strong thermal-
alkaline one, its predominating salt being Sodium Bicarbonate.

The Bimini Hot Springs today consist of an Hotel, a nata-
torium containing three large swimming-pools and spacious buildings
in which this water is bottled. The Bimini plain and carbonated
soda water 1s a useful beverage in gastric and intestinal indigestion
and catarrhal conditions of the alimentary and urinary tracts.

BONANZA

In a sequestered spot amongst the pines and old oaks of Lake
County are the Bonanza Hot and Cold Mineral Springs. The
elevation is 2,500 feet and during the hot summer months it is
always cool and pleasant, but the place is used more as a camping
pleasure resort than as a medicinal spring. The location of Bonanza
is six miles from Glenbrook, and eight miles from Lower Lake. The
springs are the Cold Soda, the Sulphuretted and the Chalybeate.

The Cold Soda Spring is a good stomach water and contains,
besides Sodium Bicarbonate, the carbonates of Magnesium and
Potassium, and Magnesium Sulphate.

 
 

A FORTUNATE MISFORTUNE

THE BARTLETT SPRINGS.

Over fifty-five years ago, Mr. Green Bartlett of Kentucky left
his home to try the effect of a change of climate. He tried the
out-door life in California, which was his objective point, and he
became enamoured with it. He camped in various parts of Lake
County. One summer he pitched his tent by chance on the site
where Bartlett now stands—a beautiful, restful, inviting spot,
untrammeled by civilization, primitive and natural. He drank
freely of the sparkling water close at hand, and, much to his
surprise, he discovered that his ailments were leaving him, and later
that he became a well man. Soon after this the springs developed
into a health resort, and as the years have rolled on quite a small
colony has grown up around them. Today the Bartlett Springs
Company owns a picturesque property of two thousand five hundred
acres. The location of the springs is in a beautiful canon having
an elevation of 2,350 feet, while dotted in a pine forest all around
are over one hundred bungalows and three hotels.

In the summer months it is a health and pleasure resort com-
bined, and often accommodates more than four hundred people.
Being situated in the northeastern part of lake County, Bartlett
Springs are somewhat out of the beaten track. There are two ways
of getting there, one is by train to Williams and thence by auto
stage, the other by train to Hopland and across Clear Lake to the
Bartlett landing.

The main spring at Bartlett is mildly alkaline in its reaction,
and counteracts hyperacidity of the stomach and urinary tract. It
contains the bi-carbonates of sodium and potassium, carbonate of
magnesium, carbonate of calcium and silica. It is naturally charged
with carbonic acid gas. There is a second and smaller spring
whose water is similar, excepting that the percentage of the mag-
nesium carbonate is much higher. For those whose systems are
weakened and clogged by excesses in eating and drinking and by a
general disregard of Nature's laws in habits of living, a stay at
Bartlett for a month on a regulated diet and a moderate drinking
of the water, will in all probability work wonders. The Bartlett
water is bottled with its natural gas as far as possible and put on
the market.

The season at Bartlett is from May to November, but being in
a village the resort is never closed.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

BOYES SPRINGS.

On the Eastern side of Sonoma Valley artesian wells yield
warm water, and at three places where such wells have been
obtained resorts have been built up; the southernmost of these are
Boyes Springs. Being only forty-five miles from San Francisco
with two trains daily each way and located in the heart of beautiful
Sonoma Valley, it is not to be wondered at that this resort is well
patronized during the summer months. The hotel is new and
modern, and a number of cottages with fanciful names, as is the
case in all of these resorts, are scattered about in pleasant nooks and
shady spots. This spring in particular lays itself out for amusement.
They have a new theatre, a baseball ground, a club house, and I
think the largest mineral water swimming tank in California. The
bathing facilities at Boyes are their drawing card. The swimming
plunge and tub baths are supplied by water pumped from two of
the wells; the temperature of this water 1s about 114° F. The
analysis shows that it belongs to the primary saline waters with a
very high proportion of silica. The waters are bottled and placed
on the market.

From a medicinal point of view, Boyes Springs could be recom-
mended as a good water to drink and bathe in where strong sodium
chloride waters are required; the high percentage of silica adds
greatly to its value.

 

WAITING FOR THE TRAIN AT BOYES

 

 

 
 

 

A NEGLECTED OPPORTUNITY

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE CALIFORNIA HOT SPRINGS
I gry EOGRAPHICALLY these springs are located in
A Tulare County, thirty-four miles southeast of the
3 Porterville station of the Southern Pacific Bh
2 They were formerly known as Deer Creek Hot
SEN Springs, as they were situated along the southern bank
of Deer Creek Cafnion, while Deer Creek, a sparkling
stream, rushes by them. The mineral springs consist of two groups,
an upper and a lower. All of them, except the house spring, are
sulphuretted and primary alkaline and range in temperature from
108° F. to 129° F.—their combined flow being over one hundred
thousand gallons in the 24 hours. The chief spring, called the “House
Spring,” has a daily flow of 28,500 gallons and a temperature of
124° F. This is a valuable water, as its chief salt is Lithium Chlor-

ide; it also contains Sodium Meta-Borate and Di-Sodium Arsenate.

CALISTOGA
More than fifty years ago Calistoga Springs enjoyed great popu-

larity. The owner at that time, Mr. Samuel Branna, spent over ¢

$100,000 in beautifying and exploiting the resort; he erected a good
hotel, cottages, swimming-pools and bath-houses. In 1868 a fire
destroyed nearly all the buildings. The mineral springs at Calistoga
appear as if they consisted of two sets, one is in the heart of the
village, and the other in the suburbs, but in reality the whole of this
verdant spot, surrounded as it is by a curtain chain of safeguarding
mountains, lies over an immense bed of hot springs, the temperatures
ranging from 126° F. to 173° F. With the exception of the baths
at the Calistoga Hotel in the town, the mud bath-house is now the
only building that is used where the main set of springs are. It is
small, but in suitable cases the mud-baths are very efficacious.
Calistoga is the starting place for a large number of the health
resorts in Lake County. The Spiers automobile stage service
is well run, they carry the mails and keep good time.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

CAMPBELL

This resort lies in the Sierra Nevada Mountains at the head of the
great Sierra Valley which covers an expanse of thirty miles in length
by five miles in width, and is backed by a great primeval forest.
The altitude at the Springs themselves is 5,100 feet, and yet at this
elevation the Hotel in connection with the Springs provides a most
excellent table. The air and the environments are medicinal in them-
selves. For those whose constitutions have been undermined from
overwork or long confinement in bed attendant upon long illnesses, no
finer place for “‘building up” can be found in the State than the
Campbell Hot Springs. This applies to only those whose cardiac
conditions are normal and whose arteries are elastic and healthy.
There are three principal springs here, one is cold and two are hot.
The waters are slightly saline and sulphurous and apply in the way
of treatment to those cases in which such waters are suitable.

The “Hobo” Spring contains in addition to the Sodium and Cal-
cium Salts, the Oxides of Iron and Aluminum. It is a beautiful ride
of only 35 miles via Truckee, passing Webber Lake and Lake
Independence, from these springs to Lake Tahoe.

The Campbell Springs are 218 miles from San Francisco; at
Truckee the visitor leaves the train and takes an automobile.

COOK

Cook’s Springs, in Colusa County, are thirty-three miles from
the town of Williams. They are situated in the picturesque Indian
Valley, and traces of Indian occupation of many years ago are now
and again unearthed. The resort can accommodate in the summer
months about one hundred and fifty people; many go there year
after year from the adjoining counties. The facilities for camping
under the trees are numerous, and the hotel sets a good table. The
three chief springs at Cook’s are the Main, the Iron Spring and the
Sulphur Spring. The water of the Main Spring is bottled and put
on the market. It is rich in Magnesium Carbonate and is moder-
ately carbonated. There is a fourth spring at the creek side which
is called the Sulphur Spring, as its water has a slight odor of
Hydrogen Sulphide.

The waters are gently aperient, diuretic and tonic and are of
value in dyspepsia, anemia, renal and cystic disorders.

 

 
MOUNTAIN AND VALLEY SPRINGS

DEER PARK.

For nearly forty years these springs have been well patronized.
They are situated in the Bear Creek Cafion of Placer County,
and are two miles from the Deer Park station of the Lake Tahoe
railway. What has been said of the beautiful Tahoe Country
applies equally to this spot. Eight miles to the southeast are the
Summit Soda Springs. Deer Park Inn, cottages and tents can
accommodate about one hundred visitors. There are four mineral
springs here. Two are soda springs, one is sulphur and one is iron.
They are all mildly carbonated. The air is mild and invigorating.
For many years this health resort was known as Scott Spring.

FETTERS.

These springs are ensconced in an area of about one hundred
acres of their own land. All around are orchards, vineyards and
gardens. Fetters are about forty-five miles from San Francisco, and
nestle close up to the foothills of the Sonoma Valley. The resort
is of comparatively recent development; it originally went by the
name of the Eleda Hot Springs, and for many years lay idle.

The hotel is a modern one and connected with it is a club house
and an annex, while a variety of cottages and tents provide accom-
modations to suit all. The Post Office and railway station are on the
grounds. The swimming-tank and bath-houses are only a short
distance from the hotel. As at Agua Caliente, it is thought by Mr.
Waring of the U. S. Geological Survey, that the presence of lava
furnishes the artesian condition, as the hills that border the eastern
side of Sonoma Valley are of rhyolithic lava, and that the wells
are drilled into volcanic tuff that underlies the thin layer of alluvium
in this part of the valley.

The Fetters Hot Springs water ranges in temperature from
108° F. to 118° F., and the total daily combined flow is very
considerable. The waters are faintly carbonated and belong to the
primary saline class. Their chief salts are Sodium Chloride, Sodium
Carbonate and Silicon Di-Oxide.

The swimming tank is a large one and is filled daily with the
fresh mineral water; a hot plunge is also near it. The same water
also supplies thirty porcelain baths. This mineral water is beneficial
in derangements of the stomach, liver and bile-ducts and in some
skin diseases.
GILROY HOT SPRINGS

 
CALIFORNIA'S YELLOWSTONE

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

CHAPTER XIX.

GILROY.

20 N the side of a beautiful cafion of the Mount Hamilton
/ Spur in Santa Clara County are the Gilroy Hot
0 Springs. The town of Gilroy is fourteen miles away,
ed and the city of San Jose forty-three miles. It takes a
3 little less than three hours from San Francisco to the
Gilroy station of the Southern Pacific Railway,
where an automobile meets the train. The elevation at the springs is
1,240 feet. The average summer temperature 1s 71°, the average
winter 57°. The Gilroy Hot Springs were first opened in the
seventies; they have a comfortable hotel, an annex, a club house and
fifteen cottages, and can accommodate about one hundred and fifty
people. The main building contains sixteen bath-rooms, cement
plunge tanks and the hot sulphurous mud baths. Gilroy has one
main spring of a flow of fifteen gallons a minute, and a temperature
of 110° F. It is a primary Saline water in which the two chief
salts are Sodium Chloride and Magnesium Sulphate.

  
 

THE CALIFORNIA GEYSERS.

The Geysers are Nature's own laboratory. They are in a class
‘by themselves; they are both grotesque and awesome, and yet there
1s also much of beauty attached to them, as the approach and
district in which they are in is overwhelmingly grand. The
road through the romantic Alexander Valley is alone worthy
of a visit. The Geysers are in Sonoma County about one hundred
miles north of San Francisco, sixteen miles from Cloverdale and
twenty-six from Calistoga. The best way to get there is by train to
Healdsburg and then by automobile over a new road of about
twenty-five miles that winds through most beautiful scenery. A
party of hunters in 1846 were the first white people that made this
place known to the public, although relics of the times when the
Indians used the waters have on several occasions been found. The
Indians are not unlike the Mission Fathers in this respect, for as the
padres found the fruitful fertile spots, so the Indians sought the
healing-places and made use of them. The Geysers are a favorite
ENTRANCE TO HARBIN SPRINGS

 
 

 

FOUNTAINS OF YOUTH

resort for health-seekers, tourists and sight-seers. They have been
likened to Yellowstone Park, but they are not true geysers.

In nearly all cases the hot water is either strongly sulphuretted
or faintly acid, sometimes both. Crystals and deposits of native
Sulphur and Magnesium Sulphate are often found adhering to the
rocks, etc. In all there are at the California Geysers twelve hot
springs, ten hot pools and twelve vapour vents, besides two cold iron
springs and a cold sulphuretted drinking one.

Of the twelve hot springs, the Devil's Tea Kettle and the
Witches’ Cauldron Spring are the most remarkable. The water is
almost boiling and holds in solution a very high percentage of
Sodium Sulphate and Magnesium Sulphate. The two Hot Alum
Springs are also almost unique in their strength of Aluminum.

The action of the waters covers a large field. They are laxative,
diuretic and diaphoretic, acting on the liver, intestines, kidneys and
skin, and are of benefit in rheumatism and gout.

HARBIN.

The Harbin Springs were first known to the public in 1858.
They are situated in Lake County, and are four miles from Middle-
town and twenty-two from Calistoga. The elevation at Harbin is
1,750 feet, and yet they are in a canon through which flows the Har-
bin Creek. The present management have lived down the “sporty”
reputation that the place once had, and it now has a deservedly select
patronage. The resort can accommodate about three hundred guests,
as in addition to the hotel, there is a three-story rooming house, ten cot-
tages and about a dozen tents. Five important mineral springs have
made Harbin what it is; they all contain Iron and Carbon Di-Oxide.
The two chief springs are the Hot Sulphur with a total flow of
2,900 gallons an hour and a temperature of 122° F. The chief
salts in these springs are Sodium Chloride, Calcium Sulphate, Mag-
nesium Sulphate and Carbonate, and Sodium Sulphate and Car-
bonate; in addition to this they have a high percentage of Hydrogen
Sulphide. These springs are so tapped, that they supply a plunge,
vapour baths, tub baths and a swimming tank. The springs at
Harbin have been termed the “Fountains of Youth.” They are
efficacious in rheumatism, gout, neuralgias, catarrhs, stomach and
kidney troubles, and as blood purifiers. The three other springs
are the Arsenic, the Magnesia and the Iron.
SPRINGS

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MAGIC SPRINGS

HIGHLAND

For over twenty-five years these springs have been known and
used. They lie at an altitude of 1,700 feet on the edge of the
mountains round Big Valley, in Lake County.

They are six miles by stage road southwest of Kelseyville and
about eight from Lakeport. Highland has about a dozen mineral
springs belonging to it. They are known by various names, the
most important being the Seltzer Spring, Neptune Spring, Dutch
Spring, Diana Spring and the Magic Spring. They are all more or
less carbonated and many of them contain small quantities of iron in
solution. The Highland Seltzer Spring, temperature 60° F., is an
alkalo-saline chalybeate water and should be of great service in cases
of atonic dyspepsia, neuralgias, some forms of bladder troubles, gout
and skin diseases. The baths are very invigorating and beneficial
for rheumatism and joint affections. The Magic Spring is rich in
Bi-carbonate of Soda and Magnesia. Ex

HOWARD

From a purely medicinal point of view this is one of the most
valuable springs in the State. The variety of its mineral waters is
almost unique. Its open location and high altitude (2,200 feet)
are not the least of its attributes. Howard Springs are located in
Lake County, six miles from Lower Lake and thirty-two by the stage
road from Calistoga. There are 42 mineral springs; the largest are
used mainly for bathing, and supply the baths and plunge pools. The
“Hot Soda’ has a temperature of 110° F., and a flow of 125
gallons a minute. The “Excelsior” or “Borax Spring” has a
temperature of 95° F. and a flow of 5 gallons a minute, while the
“Eureka” or Iron, Soda and Magnesia Spring has a temperature of
107° F., and a flow of two gallons a minute. Five springs that go
by the names Bohemia, Neptune, Lithia and Magnesia are used
principally for drinking. The Lithia Spring is also known as the
“Elixir of Life’ Spring. In addition to these there are the white
and black sulphur springs and numerous others containing Potassium,
Aluminum, Calcium, Silica and traces of Arsenic. Many are heavily
charged with carbonic acid gas. The use of these waters, externally
and internally, can only be estimated by their individual ingredients,
and should only be used under skilled medical direction. The prop-
erty comprises about 150 acres, and is an ideal spot for the invalid.
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THE KLAMATH HOT SPRINGS

 
LIVING NEAR TO NATURE

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

CHAPTER XX.

KLAMATH

Vor 2Y) ITUATED as they are in the picturesque country of
TESS % the Mt. Shasta region, 2,700 feet above sea level, with
(¢ RQ snow-capped mountain peaks all around them, the
Klamath Hot Springs are as noted for being amidst
beautiful scenery as they are for their mineral waters.
They are located in Siskiyou County about eighteen
miles from Ager, on the Shasta route of the Southern Pacific. The
hotel and other buildings have ample accommodations for the sick as
well as for the tourist. Fishing and shooting can be had in abun-
dance during the season. The springs rise in the meadowland that
adjoins the Klamath River. There are in all seven springs.

The drinking spring is the hottest (152° F) and is only about
two hundred yards from the hotel; the main bath spring is one
hundred yards to the southwest at the border of the tule area. This
tule supplies the mud for the hot mud baths.

The hot drinking spring is a primary saline water, and is rich
in the chlorides and sulphates of Sodium, Metaborates and Silica;
some of the springs are carbonated, but most are sulphuretted.
These waters have gained celebrity in the treatment of chronic
rheumatism, rheumatoid arthritis, gout, glandular enlargements and
certain skin diseases. The bathing facilities are good.

The Reclamation Service reports, for sixteen years past, give an
average of 280 sunny and clear days per year. Speaking of
Klamath Valley, Dr. T. T. Cobanis, during a residence of fourteen
years in this portion of the State, says: ‘‘Rheumatism, croup, bron-
chitis, pneumonia and pleurisy are almost unknown, and I have
never seen but two cases of consumption. These did not originate
here. Ten cases of croup would cover all which I have witnessed.
I cannot now recall to my mind more than ten cases of pneumonia.
When it is considered that the population of this county are
miners and farmers who are greatly exposed to bad weather, and
have to endure great hardships, it is a matter of surprise that so
few cases of diseases of the lungs are known.

QO

    
 
 
 

MURRIETA HOT SPRINGS
THE POOL OF SILOAM

MURRIETA.

These hot mineral springs were founded many years ago by the
late Fritz Guenther. To his original 300 acres that included the
Buttes and Peat Bogs, he later added another 230 acres of valley
land. In his will he made a curious charitable proviso whereby
accommodations must always be found for the needy sick who were
never to be charged over the sum of ten dollars per week.

The Murrieta Springs are three and a half miles from Murrieta
Station, on the Santa Fe Railway in Riverside County, about 110
miles from Los Angeles. The Lincoln Highway passes through the
property. The heated waters, which are sulphuretted in odour and
taste, rise at the base of a gravel bluff. There are three springs at
Murrieta that are of importance, with a supply of all the water that
is necessary. Lhe largest and hottest of these is the ‘Siloam
Spring,” with a temperature of about 160° F. Sodium Chloride is
its chief salt, and the gases Carbon Dioxide and Hydrogen Sulphide.
Next comes the ‘“Ramona” or Beauty Spring, and then the
“Bethesda” Spring. The water of neither of these springs is so hot,
nor the medicinal qualities so marked, as that of the Siloam Spring.

Between the east and west branches of this river is a crescent-
shaped Peat Bog, hugging the base of the Crescent Butte for about
half a mile. For centuries, probably, mineral waters have been
flowing from this base into these peat bogs, impregnating the mud
and peat with the minerals contained in their waters and making
Nature's own poultices for the alleviation of suffering mankind.

Used in conjunction with the hot mineral waters they have,
undoubtedly, like the Pool of Siloam, effected many cures. The
number of tent-houses and comfortable cottages have lately been
increased, and the old ones rejuvenated, while a new hotel has been
built and the old one improved. The meat, butter, eggs and milk
are home productions. The general dietary is plain but good.
The resort caters to all classes and the rates should suit all purses.
The elevation at Murrieta is ,309 feet and the life-giving heat ot
a southern sun is tempered either by the bracing mountain air, or by
the afternoon breezes from the Pacific Ocean.

Rheumatism and ailments of the stomach and liver do well at
Murrieta. The drinking of the water and the taking of the baths
has been of great benefit to those who have used intoxicants or
drugs to excess.
THE PARAISO HOT SPRINGS NEAR SOLEDAD

 
WATERS OF PARADISE

PARAISO HOT SPRINGS

The history of Paraiso Springs is interesting.

In 1791, King Carlos of Spain granted to the Mission La
Soledad twenty acres of land containing the Paraiso Springs, where
the priests located a health resort and vineyard tract. During the
early days of California the friars at the old Mission of Soledad
used to go up to the springs, and receive the sick, who bathed in the
waters and drank them according to directions; they received so
much benefit, that they named it the “Water of Paradise.”

These springs are very pleasantly situated in a snug little valley
on the eastern slope of the Santa Lucia Mountains, Monterey
County, at an elevation of 1,400 feet above the sea level. The
Santa Lucia range lies between the Salinas Valley and the Pacific
ocean. The resort can be reached in 41% hours from San Fran-
cisco, by the Southern Pacific Railway to Soledad, and then by
auto service; the distance from Soledad to the springs is eight miles.

The winding paths and sequestered retreats leading up and
down the mountain sides afford excellent exercise; fish are said to
be plentiful in the Arroyo Seco during the season, and quail, dove,
and deer are to be found in the surrounding hills. Immediately
around the springs are cultivated grounds and gardens, and situated
as it is in the midst of Monterey County’s best agricultural district,
the hotel is enabled to give the guests the best of meat, dairy
products, and vegetables. The palm groves and large orange trees
are very attractive, and the swimming-pool is most picturesque.

The hotel and cottages are of recent construction, and the table
fair. The temperature is equable and the air dry and invigorating. It
is said that consumptives and asthmatics do well at Paraiso. The
springs themselves consist of five in number; the largest is the Soda
Spring with a flow of about eight gallons a minute and a tempera-
ture of 112° F. The two drinking springs each yield about a
quarter of a gallon a minute and have a temperature of 68° F.
One contains Iron, and the other a trace of Iron and Arsenic.
There is a hot Soda and Sulphur plunge bath and a large out-door
swimming-pool. The Paraiso Hot Springs have received the name
of the Carlsbad of America, but for what reason I don’t know;
they are open all the year round, and are a good spring and have
plenty of water.
Rig

SWIMMING POOL AT PARAISO HOT SPRINGS

 
THE CASTELLATED SPRINGS

NAPA SODA.

Napa Soda Springs, as their name implies, are situated in the
beautiful County of Napa. Being only 50 miles from San Fran-
cisco and eight miles from the town of Napa, they are accessible by
bay, rail and motor-stage. The elevation at the springs themselves
is 700 feet; they lie on the western slope of the Coast Range, and
are environed in a picturesque setting of tree-crowned hills.

The numerous stone buildings are plainly visible for many miles
and look like so many castles gleaming on the hill-side.

In all there are twenty-seven springs at Napa, but only tour are
now used. The two chief of these are the ‘Pagoda’ and “Lemon”
Springs; their water is highly carbonated, and contains a relatively
large proportion of the carbonates of Magnesia and Iron. The
water from these springs is drunk and used in the bath-house. The
two other springs flow into covered tanks, to collect the CO: gas
given off, and thus more heavily carbonate the water which is piped
to a large bottling house; it is shipped in large quantities under the
name of Jackson's Napa Soda to all parts of the United States.
The Napa Soda’s ‘Pagoda’ and ‘Lemon’ Springs are good as
stomach tonics, they correct acidity, and at the same time give tone
to gastric digestion.

The hotel is open throughout the entire year and attractive
houses are scattered about the extensive grounds. Besides the bath-
houses, in which is hot and cold Napa Soda Water, there is a large
concrete swimming tank supplied also by the spring’s water. The
Club House, the Tower House, the Ivy House, Garden House,
Music Hall and Bellevue Bell Tower House are all built of stone
obtained from the quarries near by.

*THE PALM SPRINGS.

Almost within the Mojave Desert on the Sunset Line of the
Southern Pacific that runs through Riverside County, is the Palms
Spring Station, and eight miles south of this are the Palm ‘Springs
themselves in an oasis of palms. It is widely known as an artists’
and nature lovers’ colony. The resort consists of the Desert Inn,
tent houses with screened porches, camping grounds, mud and tub
baths and outside plunge. The water, which has a temperature of
about 100° F., is used chiefly for bathing in, and practically its
only two salts are Sodium Chloride and Sodium Carbonate. The
spot is admirably suited for tuberculous patients.

#*A picture of Palm Springs Canon appears on page 300.
Er 3

 

Wer WS WY bs Pe:

THE PASO ROBLES HOT SPRINGS
THE PASS OF THE OAKS

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

“The Bath, the Cup, the Lake or Stream,
Here Nature seems all Maving,
Come, let us each thank Providence
At Paso Robles staying.”
HR. B.

CHAPTER XXL

PASO ROBLES HOT SPRINGS.

£20) HESE springs are located in an historic spot. Only
ETD eight miles away the Spanish Padres built the old
Je i Mission of San Miguel in 1797, and it stands today
2 Sl in a good state of preservation. It is a perfect type
A of its time, and its original decorations and paintings
and still existing. The name El Paso de Robles, is
derived from the Spanish, meaning “The Pass of the Oaks’, from
the fact that the main highway ran through this valley. For many
miles this picturesque undulating land is covered with white oaks,
live oaks and large cottonwoods, and nestled in one of these groves
are the springs themselves.

D

b

They lie on the high ground above the valley of the Salinas
River, and about sixteen miles from the shores of the Pacific. They
are very easy of access, being on the Southern Pacific Coast line
from San Francisco to Los Angeles, and all the express trains
between these two places stop at Paso Robles Station. The once
wild “Pass of the Oaks’ is now transformed into a favourite resort
in the midst of cultivated grounds which practically are a part of
the thriving town of Paso Robles.

Paso Robles Hot Springs are among the best-known health
resorts in California. Of course the Indians found them out, and
took their sick there, and so impressed were they by the cures
wrought, that they braved the danger of meeting hostile tribes and
came from far-away Texas and other then territories to reach the
healing powers of Sulphur, Soda, Magnesia and mud. They were
followed by the brown-frocked friars, who left an air of mystery
 

THE KUR-HAUS AT PASO ROBLES
TR ————————

THE BADEN BADEN OF CALIFORNIA

and charm all through the fertile valleys that form the boundaries
of these springs. The Spanish Padres sent the story of the cures to
Spain, and today, at the Missions, not far remote from Paso Robles,
vestments and altar cloths worked by the Spanish Queen and her
ladies-in-waiting, are still to be seen at San Luis del Rey, San
Miguel and San Juan Missions.

Many pleasant excursions are within easy reach of Paso Robles.
[he roads are splendid for motoring and for driving. One may
drive to the Salinas River with its numerous branches, to the San
Miguel Mission, to the Atascadero Ranch, or to the Pacific Ocean
beach.

A short distance from Paso Robles is the Rancho Santa Ysabel,
with a charming little lake into which flow the tepid Santa Ysabel
sulphur springs. The view from the Manzanita Grove at the summit
of the park-drive is one to be long remembered. A spin along the
Pass of the Oaks into the Santa Lucia Mountains is another de-
lightful excursion. Hills and valleys, glades and vales, pretty
little streams and a sky of brightest blue, lend wizardry to make the
way memorable. The branches of the oaks are twisted in grotesque
and fantastic shapes, while from every bough hang festoons of
Spanish moss. The sunbeams dance upon the tree-trunks, and the
shadows are fanciful through the greenery. Over all is the glamour
of the golden sunshine, and the perfume of wild growing things.
With such surroundings it is not difficult to picture tall, thin padres,
with the brown habit of the Franciscan order, still stealing softly
through the evening shades. It is a well-known fact that the Spanish
Padres selected the most fertile spots in sunny golden California to
build their missions and to erect their monasteries. Certain it is that
at Paso Robles they found a verdant, fruitful spot. Here the
mantle of peace and the gentle benediction of their presence still
rest upon the scene, and tradition seems to cling to this historic spot,
investing Paso Robles with a quaint and fascinating charm.

Paso Robles is a Mecca for the fashionable set, as well as the
less brilliant lights. It is the hub, so to speak, of the surrounding
country. From its pleasant fields radiate numerous ways, and it
captures and enthralls all who come within its portals. Paso Robles
is about mid-way between San Francisco and Los Angeles, being
217 miles from the former, and 257 from the latter. The elevation
is 720 feet, which is about the same as that at Carlsbad in Bohe-
THE GROUNDS AT PASO ROBLI HOT SPRINGS

 
3

THE ‘SUNKEN BATHS’ OF PASO ROBLES

mia, and Baden Baden in Germany. The climate is one of the best
that California affords. It is a combination of an inland climate
with that of the ocean. The atmosphere is usually dry and bracing,
and of crystalline clearness, so much so, that one can sleep, summer
and winter, with all the windows open, beneath blanket and coverlet.
This in itself, is an important adjunct to the healing properties of
the springs, and forms no inconsiderable factor in the cures which
Paso Robles has to its credit. The days almost throughout the
year are clear, warm and sunny, the mid-day temperature being
modified by a westerly breeze which finds its way from the ocean
through the mountain canons.

The hotel at Paso Robles was built in 1888, and looks like an
English country home, surrounded as it is by extensive park-like
grounds. The building is shaded by broad verandas leading into a
solarium. This, again, conducts into the ‘“Kurhaus”, an elaborate
establishment built in the mission style and equipped with the most
modern apparatus known to the science of hydro-therapy. In the
Kurhaus is a marble swimming-pool into which the great Hot Sul-
phur Spring daily pours its two-million gallons of water at a
temperature of 105° F.

Near the other end of the hotel, that is, on its north side, is the
cozy club house, and scattered throughout the wooded grounds are
numerous cottages. When it was first built, the “million dollar”
Kurhaus seemed to be the great attraction at Paso Robles, but now
that has been put in the shade by the building down into the strong
vegetable mud (through which mineral waters at 120° F. bubble),
the most complete mud-bath building in California, if not in the
United States. This bath peat or mud house is divided into two
sections—one side being for men and the other for women. The
dressing and rest rooms are alike on both sides, as are the baths
themselves, which consist of two sets of three, built down over the
actual spring, so that the patient either lies or stands in the bath
filled with the hot muddy liquid that has just entered through its
floor. This is of course the most perfect way to take a complete
mud bath. Mechanical contrivances are so arranged that in case
the patient is either totally, or partially paralyzed, he can be low-
ered or raised into and out of the bath, and conveyed to the rest
room in the building, or to the waiting automobile. The mud-bath
springs are about two miles from the hotel, to which the property
 

AT PASO ROBLES

HOUSE

D BATH

MU
MINERALIZED MUD

belongs; luxurious hotel automobiles convey patients along the State
Highway whenever a mud bath is ordered by the physician at the
hotel.

What is known as the ‘‘Lithia Spring”, belongs to a group of
springs that lie close together at the back of the mud-bath house, and
go by the name of the moor or mud spring, their total output being
about 6,000 gallons an hour, and the temperature ot their waters
ranging from 104° to 122° F. What is called the Lithia Spring is
used for drinking; the water has a faintly salty-sulphuretted taste.
About one hundred yards north of this group is the warm Soda
Spring, and two hundred yards further on is the cold Iron Spring.
The flow of the soda spring is about four gallons a minute; this
water has been carbonated and bottled by the local soda works.
The analyses of the waters of the Main Sulphur, Lithia, and Soda
Springs, will be found at the end of the book under the head of
the chapter on analyses. The water of the Main Spring, taken
internally, acts beneficially on the stomach and liver, owing to the
presence of Sodium carbonate and free carbonic acid gas; contain-
ing also a quantity of sulphur, it acts as an alterative. To bathe in
this water in certain irritable conditions of the skin is very relieving.
The water of the Lithia Spring is also heavily charged wth CO,
and H.S gases, and is a valuable mildly alkaline water in rheumatic
and gouty conditions; it also has a soothing action on the bladder
and kidneys. In addition to the Sodium salts that this water con-
tains it has a salt of Potassium, but of Lithia salts there is only a
trace.

“Americanitis”’, or ‘‘Neurasthenia Americana’, America’s new
disease, is said to lose its identity by a few weeks’ sojourn at Paso
Robles. For the first time since it opened in 1888, this resort
closed its door this winter for two months, in order to make exten-
sive alterations and improvements, and to redecorate and refurnish
the hotel. The weather conditions at Paso Robles are, throughout
the year, usually good for golf. The nine-hole course covers 3,276
yards, the bogey is 42; the longest hole measures 600 yards. The
golf course is the property of the springs, and is situated in a park-
like country of 115 acres, having natural hazards and gently rolling
hills. ‘With such natural advantages as location, climate, mineral
waters and mineralized-mud, Paso Robles is an ideal place to
recreate, rest and recuperate.
 
SCENIC SHASTA SPRINGS

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

CHAPTER XXII.

SHASTA.
m—% URING the construction of the Southern Pacific Rail-
YR way along the east side of the Sacramento River in

N N 1887, these springs were first brought into notice, and

W oz2=

   

their commercial development started. They are
located at the Shasta Springs Station, which is on the
Shasta Scenic Route in Siskiyou County.

A cemented drinking fountain and a kiosk are built over the
springs, so that it is not possible to see their direct source, which is
at the base of the steep canon side. Four hundred feet above the
springs, the land slopes northward to Mount Shasta. Directly above
the springs 1s a summer resort, the grounds of which are reached by
an inclined railway from the station below, or one can get to them
by a winding path up the side of the canon. Near this path are
cascades from the springs at the top. Some two or three hundred
feet below are several Carbonated Iron Springs. The temperature
of the Shasta Springs water at its source is 51° F.; the main mineral
constituents are the carbonates of Magnesium and Sodium, Sodium
Chloride, Potassium Carbonate and in some of the springs Car-
bonate of Iron. It is a most palatable popular drinking water.

SUMMIT SODA.

As their names implies, these springs are in the Sierra Nevada
Mountains of Placer County, west of Lake Tahoe, and can be
reached by an auto drive of thirteen miles in a southerly direction
from the Summit Railway Station. Their altitude is over six
thousand feet. The air is dry and invigorating and the surroundings
picturesque in the extreme. Since the hotel and cottages were de-
stroyed by fire the resort has been closed.

Of the four springs, three have been enclosed by small buildings,
and are used as drinking springs. They are all strongly carbonated,
and contain Sodium, Magnesium and Iron.
A SYLVAN SPOT

SEIGLER.

Perhaps the chief characteristic of Seigler’s, is the grouping of
twenty or more springs within a stone’s throw of the hotel.

The resort, like many another, has frequently changed hands
since it first opened its doors. At last, however, it seems to have
fallen on its feet, and from what I can gather, promises in the near
future to rival its neighbour Adams. The management, encouraged
by their last season’s success, are about to erect seventy-five bunga-
lows of a new design. At present they can accommodate 220
guests. It is a wooded sylvan spot of 750 acres, amidst romantic
mountain scenery. [he creek murmurs a lullaby to the wind in the
trees as it ripples over its stony bed, waterfalls and cascades flow
noisily over the immense boulders, and the cadence of the stream
blends with the sleepy notes of drowsy birds. The altitude is about
2,500 feet. Seigler’s Hot Springs are situated almost in the center
of Lake County, and can be reached by the auto stage line from
either Calistoga or Lakeport. There are eight individual mineral
springs here that have therapeutic value. The most important of
these are the Hot Sulphur, and the Iron and Magnesia Springs.
The temperature of these various waters ranges from 92° F. to
139° F., and, taking them all round, the flow is quite sufficient
for all requirements. The organs benefited by these waters are the
stomach, intestines, liver and kidneys.

 

THE NATURAL SWIMMING-POOL AT SEIGLER’S
SULPHURETTED SPRINGS

SKAGGS.

This resort is one of the oldest in the State, being first opened in
1857. It is situated in Sonoma County. The Sausalito Ferry con-
nects with the Northwestern Pacific Railway to Geyserville, from
which by auto it is nine miles. The waters of the three hot springs
issue at a distance of about 80 yards apart; they have a peculiar,
oily odour and taste. The water of the lowest spring (120° F.)
is piped to the baths, that from the central spring (122° F.) to the
laundry building, and that from the upper spring (135° F.) rises in
a cemented drinking basin. The action of the drinking water is
diuretic, alterative and laxative. Its chief constituents are Sodium
Carbonate, Magnesium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride, Metaborates
and free Carbonic Acid Gas.

SAN LUIS OBISPO.

For the last twenty-five years, these springs have given relief to
those of moderate means who suffer from the tortures of acute rheu-
matism, gout, arthritis and sciatica. They are located seven miles
from the town of San Luis Obispo, which is on the Coast Line of
the Southern Pacific Railway. The elevation is 800 feet and the
Pacific Ocean Beach is but one mile away. A beautiful creek runs
directly through the premises and a mountain spur protects the place
from ocean fogs and winds. The temperature of the mineral water
is 110° F. It is permeated with Sulphur, and contains in addition,
Sodium Bicarbonate, Magnesium Carbonate and free Carbonic Acid
gas.

TUSCAN.

About nine miles northwest of Red Bluff on the Sacramento
River in Tehama County, are the Tuscan or Lick Springs. An auto
stage runs daily from Red Bluff to Tuscan. There are over twenty
springs here, but only three are used for drinking, while the fourth,
or “Fountain Spring,” supplies the bath-house and swimming-pool.
The waters are all strongly saline and strongly sulphuretted and all
but the ‘““Natural Gas Spring” are rich in Sodium and Potassium
Salts. They are fine waters as blood purifiers and in digestive
derangements. From these strongly mineralized waters the salts
have been evaporated and placed on the market. Tuscan’s Tavern
is equipped like a modern hotel, and the bath house can give 500
baths daily. The elevation is 1,000 feet above the sea level.
 

THE WITTER SPRINGS
IN THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA

The Hot and Cold Mineral Springs

CHAPTER XXIII. x

WITTER SPRINGS

TEN a cleft in the mountain of Lake County, at an eleva-
% tion of nearly two thousand feet, are the Witter
2) Springs. They can be reached from San Francisco by
Iss the Northwestern Pacific Railway to Ukiah station,
—=2<4238 and then by motor stage through twenty-one miles of
wild and picturesque scenery. The resort is finely
located, being surrounded by lakes, valleys and mountains, while near
at hand are grand old trees, hoary and moss-grown, making the spot
hard to equal, even in a land where all that Nature does is so prodi-
gal. Three miles away is Blue Lake, and two miles in the other direc-
tion 1s Upper Lake. The climate is equable and the air exhilarating.

The hotel is built on the side of a hill in the midst of a four-
teen-hundred-acre ranch, overlooking the beautiful Clear Lake of
Lake County. Lovely pastoral scenes, varied by leafy nooks and
low-rolling hills surround the plateau on which the hotel is situated;
the building itself is on strictly Colonial lines. The most striking
feature of the exterior, is the veranda. There are three of these,
each 325 feet long, with a width of fifteen feet; they skirt the first,
the second and the third floors, and front upon a spreading land-
scape of great beauty.

 

The interior of the hotel, both in arrangement and finish, has a
homelike air; it is heated by steam radiators in all the rooms, many
of which are en suite with private baths. Looking southwards from
the broad verandas one sees the glistening surface of Clear Lake
seven miles away, while above it towers Mount Konocti. In the
immediate foreground the cafion broadens into the fertile Lake
Valley, dotted here and there with farm houses, surrounded by
cultivated fields. A farm supplies the table with fresh vegetables
and fruit, as well as with cream, butter, milk and eggs. There are
also a number of comfortable cottages for those who prefer to keep
house.
CALIFORNIA AS A HEALTH RESORT

Witter has five cold springs, but only one is of any great
importance. This spring used to be known by the somewhat
emphatic name of “Dead Shot,” because of the sure action of the
water for those diseases for which it was specially taken; it now
goes by the name of “The Witter Spring,” and as it issues from
crevices in a rock, it is surrounded by a kiosk, which can be seen
from the front of the hotel, about two hundred and fifty yards
away. [he temperature of this water is 52° F., and the output is
eight hundred gallons in the twenty-four hours. It is a naturally
charged carbonated saline water; it is not unpleasant to the taste,
nor has it any odor. Since 1910 the Witter Springs Company
have bottled this water at the spring, and it has earned for itself
a well-deserved reputation, being a water of marked therapeutic
value.

Besides other valuable ingredients, this water contains nearly six
hundred grains of Sodium Bicarbonate, over three hundred grains
of Magnesium Carbonate, fifty-five grains of Sodium Chloride, and
about ten grains of Potassium Chloride in the United States gallon.
Taken medicinally in small doses, say from two to four fluid ounces
three times a day, this water acts as a corrective in stomach and
intestinal acid fermentation; it is also of value in chronic catarrhal
conditions of the gastro-intestinal tract, in some liver derangements,
in dyspeptic or uric acid myalgia, in hereditary and contracted
blood diseases, and in that form of Bright's disease known as
chronic interstitial nephritis. It is claimed that authentic cases of
diabetes have been cured by taking a long course of it.

The Magnesia Spring has been used only to a small extent for
drinking; it 1s a distinctly alkaline water, and the spring’s yield is
about one-eighth of a gallon a minute. About one hundred yards
further away 1s a small Iron Spring; it also is taken internally, and
acts as a tonic and diuretic. To the west of the Iron Spring is a
Sulphur Springs. This is used for baths, and supplies the swim-
ming pool. A ffth spring, called Hummingbird Spring, is in the
ravine one hundred yards below the Witter Spring; it yields about
three gallons a minute. = It is a very pleasant, ice-cold fresh water,
and is used to supply the table at the hotel.
THE BAD NAUHEIM OF AMERICA

¥
VICHY.

Like the Howard Springs, Vichy can almost be placed in a
class by itself. It is remarkable as having a spring whose water is
not only absolutely saturated with Carbonic Acid gas, but in addi-
tion to this it is endowed with some electric property which possibly
may be Radium. This spring is called “The Vichy Spring’, and
the baths supplied by this water are called “Champagne Baths’.
There are two other springs at Vichy, “The Ardeche’” and the
“Apollinaris’’; the latter is for drinking only, and is similar to the
well-known water of the same name in Rhenish Prussia. The
Ardeche has a flow of eight gallons a minute, and a temperature ot
90° F.; it supplies a separate bath-house, near to that of the Vichy
Spring. The water is rich in Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride,
Potassium Carbonate, Meta-Borates, Silica and a small quantity of
Iron, but it contains no Carbonic Acid gas. The Vichy Spring
(temperature 83° F.) contains all these salts, only in increased
quantities, and in addition is saturated with Carbonic Acid gas and
some unknown electric quality. The Vichy waters are recom-
mended, and have been taken for all the diseases under the sun, but
had I these springs, I would treat at them only cases where the
heart, the spinal cord or the kidneys were at fault. Vichy should
be purchased by the State, and placed under expert supervision.

The “Champagne Baths’ given under skilled medical direction
would in time cause the absorption of fibrinous and other deposits on
the valves of the heart, the mucous membranes of the larynx and
pharynx, and on the pleuree.

It is quite possible that they would check the advance of the
sclerotic changes in the spinal cord in Locomotor Ataxia, and arrest
the same processes in the kidney in that form of Bright's disease
known as Interstitial Nephritis. The Vichy Springs are situated in
the foot-hills of Mendocino County, three and a half miles from
Ukiah, the county seat; they are surrounded by a natural park of
about one thousand acres.

This resort should be called Bad-Nauheim ratner than Vichy,
as the quantity of Carbonic Acid gas, and the radio-activity held
in the former's water is almost identical with that of the California
spring.

The waters belong to the alkaline carbonated class, and are clear
and sparkling, with a not unpleasant pungent taste.
a Nay
RIAN

att Termes

A TYPICAL CALIFORNIA HOT

 
A CHROMATIC SPRING

WILBUR.

The Wilbur Springs stand at an elevation of 1,250 feet, and
are located in the Coast Range of Mountains in Colusa County.
They are twenty-five miles southwest from the town of Williams,
from which place a stage runs daily to the springs during the summer
months. The hotel and other buildings are pleasantly situated,
being sheltered from the cold winds of the Coast, and from the hot
winds of the Valley. Of the numerous springs at Wilbur's, twelve
are of some importance, and their names almost sufficiently describe
them. The “Main Spring”, No. 22, is the chief one; it is a hot
Sulphur water spring, having a temperature of 140° F., and a flow
of thirty gallons a minute. The other springs are: the Hot Black
Sulphur; the Cold Black Sulphur; the Cold White Sulphur; the
Cold Magnesia spring; the Catarrh and Complexion spring; the
Chromatic spring, and the men and women’s mud-bath spring. The
Main Spring is near the west end of the hotel; its water has a pecu-
liar yellow colour, is strongly mineralized, and strongly sulphuretted.
Sodium Chloride and Sodium Carbonate are the salts that predom-
inate in nearly all these waters; Carbon Di-oxide is also present.

These waters taken internally, and in the form of the natural hot
mud bath, or the hot and cold Sulphur baths, have given great relief
in cases of muscular and articular inflammatory rheumatism, in
Neuralgias, Lumbago, Sciatica, chronic Catarrhal conditions of the
stomach and intestines and as blood purifiers.

WHEELER.

The Wheeler Hot Springs are ten miles from the Nordhoff
Station on the Southern Pacific Railway, in Ventura County. The
small hotel with annex, thirty-five tent cottages and bathing facilities
are grouped in the Canon of the North Fork of the Matilija Creek.
There are five springs at Wheeler's, and they are all Sulphuretted.
The “Main” Hot Spring, temperature 102° F., flows at the rate of
35 gallons a minute into a swimming plunge. The “Bucket” Spring,
and the “‘Genoveva’’ Spring, with temperatures varying from 62° F.
to 75° F., have only a flow of half a gallon a minute, and form the
drinking-pool. They all contain Sodium Chloride and Sodium Car-
bonate; the Genoveva Spring has in addition a large amount of
Sodium Sulphate and Magnesium Carbonate. The resort is a first
class camp, and is an ideal place for one who wishes to obtain the
benefit of the waters, and at the same time is prepared to rough it.
s Table of Springs

NAME PAGE COUNTY CHARACTERISTICS

ADAMS +... i. 200... alte oo ua Altitude 3300 ft. Stomach and liver water.
Carbonates of Sodium, Magnesia and Iron.

AEINA 212. Napa... Th [ive springs. Strongly carbonated. Sodium
Chloride and Sodium Carbonate.

Aces CArieNTE. 213. .Sonoma .......... Primary saline. Sodium Chloride and Sili-
cum Di-oxide. Baths and swimming pool.

Arven ard. Lake v.00 Carbonated Iron Spring of 63° F. Sodium
Carbonate and Sodium Chloride.

ALHAMBRA ..... 214. .Contra Costa. .... Three springs. Saline and Sulphuretted.
Principally used for bottling.

ANDERSON ...... ges alte... 00. Cold Sulphur, Sour Spring, Belmer Spring,
Hot Spring and F. Joseph. Mildly laxative.

N-ARROWHEAD ....217..S. -Bernardino..... Penyugal Arsenic, Granite, Palm Spring,
Natural Steam Caves, Arsenated Mud.

Byson :........ 247..Contra Costa, ,... Hot Salt Spring, Liver and Kidney, White
and Black Sulphur, Peat Baths, Hospital.

BArTLETT .... 252. Lake |... 0 Two thousand five hundred acres. Magne-
sium Carbonate. Stomach water. Bottled.

Divine... 253. .Los Angeles... ... Strong Carbonate of Soda Water, also So-
dium Chloride. Natatorium. Bottled.

BONANZA .......253.. ake ............. Sulphur, Soda and Iron Spring. Has been
a camping resort for many years.

Boyes &........ 254... SONOMA... Primary Saline. Sodium Chloride. Large
swimming pool. Hotel and cottages.

Car. Hor Srgs..2z5.. Tulare ...........All springs are Sulphureited. Temperature
ranging from 105° F. to 126°

Cavisrogs ..... 255 Napa... ....... No accommodation at Springs. Hotel in
town. Four main springs. Good mud baths.

CAMPBELL ...... 2x0. Sterns. 20 Hot and Cold Sodium Chloride and Sodium
Sulphate. Bathing pool. Farm life.

Coo ........... 256. Colusa... A carbonated bottled water. Main spring
rich in Sodium Carbonate and Mag. Carb.

Deer Pew... oz Placer ........ 1 Primary Saline. Soda, Sulphur and Iron.
Hotel and cottages.

¥ErrERS 2. .... 257. . Sonoma... Hot Sulphur. 114° F. Sodium Chloride,
Sod. Bicarbonate. Baths, swimming pool.

GEVSERS ,.......2:0..Sonoma ......... Twelve hot springs and ten pools. Most
of the waters are strongly Sulphuretted.

Guroy. ...... 239..Santa Clara...... Primary Saline. Temperature 110° F. So-
dium Chloride, Sodium Sulphate.
SNR

NAME PAGE COUNTY

HAvpIN oo... 261. dake ........

HIGHLAND :...... 205. ake ou...

Howarn. ....... smalake Coo La

KraAvarwy 0... 26s. .Sigkiven- .......
—~ MURRIETA ...... 267. . Riverside ......

PAuSIze 269.. Monterey ......

NAPA SopS 27. Napa... ....».,
“PALM 0. 271... Riverside .......

Paso RopLES....273

STEASTA ........ 281... Siskiyou

SuMMIT SODA. ..281

S. Luis Ogispo..283

SEIGYER 00 282. ake...
Smagas. on 233..Senoma ......
TUSCAN ......... 283.. Tehama ......
Vicay .... 0 287. .Mendocino ....
Wirnem .o. 280. lake
Waemer....... 280... Ventura ......
WILBUR... ious 28g..Colusa ........

Table

of Springs

CHARACTERISTICS

...Four springs. Hot Sulphur, Iron and Sul-

phur and Magnesia Springs.

... Twelve mineral waters. Seltzer, Neptune,

Dutch, Diana, Magic. Soda and Magnesia.

..In all 42 springs. Most important: Hot Soda
and Sulphur, Borax, Magnesia, Lithia.

.. Five springs and Tule-grove pools. Hottest
152° F. Sod. Chlor. and Sulp.xMud baths.

.. Three important springs. Siloam, Ramona
and Bethesda. Saline and Sulphuretted.

.. Five mineral springs, chief being Soda Spg.
of 111° F. Iron and Arsenic. Hot Sulphur.

.. Pagoda and Lemon Spring. Magnesia and

Tron. Bottled as Jackson's Napa Soda.

..Edge of the desert. Temperature of waters

100° F., bathing principally. Health resort.

..San Luis Obispo..New mud-bath house. Swimming pool.

acer.

Main Sulphur, Lithia and Soda Springs.

.. Principally a drinking water. Carbonates of
Magnesia and Sodium.

..Resort closed. Four springs. Carbonates
of Sodium, Magnesium and Iron.

..San Luis Obispo..Near ocean. Sulphuretted waters of 107° F.

...Opened in 1857. Sulphuretted waters. 129

Sodium Sulphide and Sodium Chloride.

... Thirteen springs in all, seven of large flow,

six of small. Soda and Magnesia Springs.

F. Sodium Carbonate chief salt.

...Natural Gas Spring. Fountain Spring.

Chloride of Sodium and Potassium salts.

...Vichy Spg. Champagne bath. Ardeche Spg.

Sod. Carbonate. Strong CO. Radio active.

...Deadshot Spring. Strongly carbonated.

Magnesia Spring and Iron Tonic Spring.

...Three warm Sulphuretted Springs. Main,

Bucket and Genoveva. Sod. Chlor. and Carb.

... Twelve springs of importance. Main spring

strongly Sulphuretted and Saline.
 
CHAPTER XXIV.

ANALYSIS (IONIC) IN PARTS PER MILLION

Penyugal Hot Springs—Arrowhead Hot Springs L
Sillea (SIOZ... ses a a 93.0 =
Sulphuric Acid Bodicle (S04). -....-.. onda vpsiintonsuss go =°t
Bicarbonie Acid Radicle (HCO3)....................c.... A 846 4
Cashonic Acid Radicle (€CO3)................ ci ceive None
Nitrile Aeid Radicle (NOz)................. cooing ia. oo None
Nitrous Acid Radiele (NO2).................c iil None
Phosphoric Acid Badicle. (POA) ....................... ii. Trace
Metahoric Acid Badicle (BOR)... 2 vusavisnisniesrnonmes ns 270 ©
Awsenic Acid Radicle (AsO4). ..... oon. 0 iin nee 0.558
Chlesime (CL)... co si hi Tee an TAL
Bromine (GBR)... 0 a ae None
Todine (I) vii. invited ede nas ws aie frie None
Iron & Aluminum (FeSAl).. 1. ..o...... cou. ove asin 1.05
Manganese (Min)... 0... is esse ms Trace
Calc (Ca) at 0. EL ae i ee 313 =
SIGH ESE) sd. ie oh ii ds nt ane None
Basignmy (Ba), ....... coo sie san ake None
Maenesimin. (Mg)... ave cE 0.9
Potassiom (K)..-.......... a re ho a EE 16.7 : ¢
Sodium (Nade chia ae el BE 3004
Lithium (Li)... sessment Trace
Ammoeniom (NEI4).... .. o.oo cao eee 0.05
Hydrogen to form NazHAsO4..................oiviuiu.n... 0.004
Oxygen to fora Bez03%5103. 0... cea a 1.75

1174.712

HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION
Grains per Parts per
U.S. Gallon Million

Ammonium Chlerid (NH4ClY..... ...... ...... ... 0.008 0.15
Lithium Chlorid (LICL) ................ .... .. 7 Trace Trace
Potassium Chlonld (KCl)..............0. 00. 1.853 31.8
Sodium Chlorid (NaCl) ..... SELL Sea 5.680 97.5
Sodium : Sulphate (NazSO4)..................... 45.604 782.0
Saditm. Metaborate (NaBO2)..................... 2.414 41.4
Di-Sodinm:- Arsenate (NazHAsO4)............... *0.0435 0.744
Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4).................. 0.256 4.4
Calcium Phosphate (CasP20%)................... Trace Trace
Calcium Bicarbonate: (Ca(FHICO3)z).............. 6.566 112.6
Mangano-Manganic Oxide-(Mn304).............. Trace Trace
Ferric Oxide & Alumina (Fe203&A1203)......... 0.087 1.5
Calcium Silicate (CaSIO3z). .... ....... .:........ 0.559 9.6
Sillea SIOZ)", nis eres 5.423 03.0
* 1/23 gr. per gal. 68.4935 1174.694
Gases at O°C. and 760 Mm. Pressure
Per Liter
Hydrogen Sulphide (H2SY.............:..c.covcies iil. 0.55 cc.
Pree Carbon Dioxide (COZY... ....0.civuniin viii hy i None

Carbon Dioxide set free from bicarbonates on evaporating to
dryness. nn on iin aA 17.7. cc.
 

HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION COMPUTED
FROM IONIC ANALYSIS
Granite Spring—Arrowhead

Grains per = Parts per
U.S. Gallon Million

Ammonium Chlenid (NHAC)... ...... ... ... .. 0.0004 0.1
Lithtwm Chlorid (LICH .................. 0... .. Faint Trace
Potassium Chleopid (KCL) .................. 1.475 25.3
Sediom Chlorid (NaCl)....................... 5.083 102.6
Sedium Sulphate (Naz2SO4)................¢ .. .. 42.086 737.1
Sodium Metaborate (NaBQz).................... 2.076 35.6
Di-Sodium Arsenate (NazHAsO4)............ .. *0.0288 0.496
Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4)................... 0.116 2.0
Calcium Phosphate (CazP208).................... Faint Trace
Calcium Bicarbonate (Ca(HCO3)z)............... 6.004 104.5
Mangano Manganic Oxide (Mn304).............. Faint Trace
Ferric Oxide and Alumina (Fe203&Al1203)...... 0.005 0.08
Calcium Silicate (€aSi03)........................ 0.102 1.75
Sled (Si@2) 0 a 5.068 102.35

* 1/35 gr. per gal. 64.8402 1111.886

Gases at O°C. and 760 Mm. Pressure
: Per Liter

Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S)........ 5 ive 0.22 CC.
Bree-Cathon Dioxide... ..... 05... i eas None
Carbon Dioxide set free from bicarbonates on evaporating to

dEYHEss o.oo Ssh ah 14.4 cc

Palm Spring—Arrowhead
Grains per Parts per
U.S. Gallon Million

Ammonium Chlorid (NHAC) .5........ ......... 0.007 0.135
Lithium Chlorid (LICH ............... .  ...... Faint Trace
Potassiim Chlotid (KClY. ..................... nag 24.5
Sodinm Chlorid (NaCl)... ................. 5... 5.23 89.5
Sodium Sulphate (NazSO4)............. ......... 37.55 644.0
Sodium Metaborate (NaBO2)............ .....}1.. 1.54 26.4
Di-Sodium Arsenate (NazHAsO4)....5........... *0.034 0.595
Calcium Bicarbonate (Ca(HCO3)z).............. 6.70 116.5
Calcium Phosphate (CazPz08%)........ Na Trace Trace
Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4).............=..... 0.23 3
Mangano Manganie Oxide (Mn30%).............. Faint Trace
Ferric Oxide and Alumina (Fe203&Al1203)....... 0.12 2.0
Sillea (SiOz)... i as 5.86 100.5

* 1/29 gr. per gal. 58.701 1008.030

Gases at O°C. and 760 Mm. Pressure
Per Liter

Hydrogen Sulphide (HaS) ... ..... ivi i. None
Pree Corhon Dioxide... ........ va aici casi i None
Carbon Dioxide set free from bicarbonates on evaporating to

ESHIBES. oh a ie 15.0 cc.
HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION COMPUTED
FROM IONIC ANALYSIS

Water from Steam Caves—Arrowhead Hot Springs

Grains per Parts per
U.S. Gallon Million

 

Ammonium Chlorid (NH4CDY.................... 0.005 0.001
Lithimm Chlorid (LICDY,.................. 00 5 Faint Trace
Potassium Chlonid (BCD). ....................... 2.45 42.0
Sodium Chlorid (NaCl)..................00.. ... 5.20 80.2
Sodium Sulphate (Na2SOa). ..................... 40.12 688.0
Sodium Metaborate (NaBOz).................... 1.60 27.7
Di-Sedium Arsenate (NazHAsO4)............... *0.037 0.644
Calcinm Bicarbonate (Ca(HCO3)2)............... 6.53 112.0
Calcium Phosphate (CasPz08)................... Trace Trace
Magnesinm Sulphate (MgSO4).................... 0.29 4.90
Mangano Manganic Oxide (Mn304).............. Faint Trace
Ferric Oxide and Alumina (Fe203&A1203)....... 0.11 1.85
Silica. (S102)... oa aa 5.05 102.00

* 1/27 gr. per gal. 62.202 1068.385

Gases at O°C. and 760 Mm. Pressure
Per Liter

Hvdiogen Sulphide (Fl2S) 0... oes eo None
Tree Carbon Dioxide... o.oo i. i iia vs None
Carbon Dioxide set free from bicarbonates on evaporating to

deyHess: 0 A a I5.2. CC.

Water Contained in Mud—Arrowhead Hot Springs

Grains per Parts per Gr. per cu.
U.S. Gallon Million ft. of Mud

 

 

Ammonium Chlorid (NH4Cl)......... 0.372 6.39 1.05
Lithium Chlogid (LiCl)............... Trace Trace Trace
Potassium Chlorid (KCL) ............. 3.082 68.3 20.87
Sedium Chlorid (NaCl). .............. 10.176 174.5 53.30
Sodium Sulphate (NazSO4).......... 68.756 1179.0 360.1
Sodium Metaborate (NaBOz2)......... 6.706 115.0 35.15
Di-Sodium Arsenate (NazHAsO4).... %*o.145 2.492 0.70
Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3)....... 30.150 517.0 158.0
Calcium Bicarbonate (Ca (tCO3)z)... 18.311 314.00 05.90
Calcium Phosphate (CazPz03)........ Faint Trace Faint Trace
Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4)........ 0.658 11.3 3.44
Mangano Manganic Oxide (Mn3O4).. Faint Trace Faint Trace
Ferric Oxide and Alumina (Fe203&A1203) 0.155 2.68 0.81
Sillea (SI0z2)... 5. 00 ic... a. 9.143 156.8 47.8
* 1/7 gr. per gal. 148.554 2547.462 778.08
Gases at O°C. and 760 Mm. Pressure Per Liter
Hydrogen Sulphide (N28)... ...... 0... oii. None
Free Carbon Dioxide (COZ). ......... ....... ...... .. ..... None
Carbon Dioxide set free from bicarbonates on evaporating to
dryness... ca... aa Ss ale 111.6 cc.

Water in Mud—44.3% or 5.25 gals, per cu. ft.
Vichy, California, and Grande Grille, Vichy, France

Solid Ingredients in One Gallon

 

Vichy,

California
Sedium Chloride (NaCl)........................ 2860
Sodium Carbonate (NazCO3)..................... 105.52
Sodium Sulphate (NazSO04) ........-............ .36
Potassium Carbonate (KCO3Y............c...... Trace
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3).........%........ 19.75
Calcium Carbonate (CaHCO3).................. 18.14
Ferrous Carbonate (Fe2CO3)..................... 07
Silicon Di-Oxide (SI0z)................... oc. 5.02
Aotal Solids ..............0 0... 0] 268.36
Cubic In
Carbonic Acid Gas ....... Eh 224.75

THE VICHY CREEK, VICHY SPRINGS.

 

Grande
Grille,
France
32.80
208.00
18.32
16.32
11.04
18.48
.16
40
305.54
Cubic In.
117.92
HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION COMPUTED

FROM IONIC ANALYSIS

Byron Hot Springs

Grains in each U. S. Gallon

Name of Spring

Kidney

White

Hot Salt Liver and Sulphur

Name of Salts Formula

T.122°F T.:3°F T.70° 8

 

Sodium Chloride (NaCl)................. 571.19 636.11 18.41
Sedium Sulphate (Na2S04)............. 6.18
Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3)......... ny oe 20.21
Magnesium Chloride (MgCl) ............ 25.18 20.18 7.19
Calcium Chloride (CaCl) ................ 105.00 80.77 3.44
Potassiom Salis... . os 7.18 6.27 Traces
Ammonium Chloride (NH4Cl)........... 1.92 2.35 Traces
Ferric Oxide (Fez203)............0. 00s Traces Traces Traces
Lithiwm Chilogide (1Li€l)................. 4.40 Traces Traces
Silicom Dizoxde (S102) ............... 1.86 1.74 2.66

Toll Solids... .... ...0. non 716.70 756.42 58.00

Free Carbon Di-oxide and Free Sulphuretted Hydrogen in all.

cE

Professor Wagner's Analysis of Murrieta’s Spring “Siloam”
” o 0 .

T. 470° Tr | [34-130

 

Constituents

pr. 100,000
Sulphate of Lime ........... ne 2.14
Carbonate of Lime... .... .. sii) nit .69
Carhonateof Maonesla:. .................... ..... *. Trace
Toon. =a. he .52
SolublesSilleate 20 lL 6.00
Chilorideof Sodium ......... 1... os so nis 60.10
Carbonate of SOAIUM .... 2.0 i. cons ne iii a tan 2.83
Hydrogen Sulphide and Carbonic Acid............. 5.15
77-43

Grains

per gal.
1.25
.40
Trace
.30
3.50
35.50
1.65
3.00

 

45.10
)-o

HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION COMPUTED
FROM IONIC ANALYSIS

Paso Robles Hot Springs

Grains in each U. S. Gallon

Name of Spring
107° PF. 122° FB. uue H,

 

Name of Salts Formula Sulphur Lithia Soda
Sodium Bicashonate (NaFHCO3).......... 48.75 2.75 27.38
Sodium Chloride (NaCl)... .............. 24.80 83.14 26.14
Sodium Sulphate (Naz2SO4).............. 8.15 37.11 5.17
Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4)........... 5.41 a 8.13
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3)......... 3.11 4.09 3.31
Potassiim Salis ............... 0 0, 3.84 4.10 2.24
Calcium Carbonate and Sulphate. ......... 4.18 16.7 11.13
Lithium and Ferrous Salts. ............... Traces Small Quantity Traces
Silicon Dioxide (SiOz) ............... 5: 2.00 2.44 1.07

Total Solids =... oi. ovis ..100.24 154.70 84.62
G H2S H2S HeS |
A883...

{ €COz Coz COz2 Free

HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION COMPUTED
FROM IONIC ANALYSIS

Witter Springs
“Dead Shot” Spring

Grains in
U. S. Gallon
Name of Salts Formula Ts3° 0,
Sedinm Chloride (NaCl)........................ .. ......... 56.00
Sodinm Bicarbonate (NalHlCO3)...-. ........... 0... 577.60
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3)....................0.... 2 333.00
Potassium Chloride (RCO)... 2a oa, 10.10
Macnesium Sulphate (MgSO4). ............................ 0.68
@alciam Cavhonate (CallCO3).. ............ ............. 3540
Berreus and Manganese Carb... ......o.......... 0... 00 Traces
Silicon Di-oxide (SIOZ). iio. in oo hai, 5.15
Total Solids oo a ea 1017.93

Free Carbon Dioxide Gas—590 c.c. per Litre.
 

HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION COMPUTED
FROM IONIC ANALYSIS
Harbin Hot Springs
Grains in each U. S. Gallon

Name of Spring
Hot Sulphur Iron Magnesia

 

Name of Salts Formula T.azz’E. T.116°F. T.6o°F.
Sodium Chileride (NaCl)................ 24.11 6.88 2.05
Sodium Sulphate (NazS0O4).............. 10.15 5.71 5.57
Sodium Carbonate (NazCO3)............ 6.07 15.64 5.18
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3)......... 5.77 4.92 8.03
Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4)........... 12.22 6.74 16.18
Potassium Chloride (KCL. .............. 2.04 2.02 1.27
Calcium Sulphate (CaSO4)............... 13.00 Si 1.15
Calcium Carbonate (CaklCO3)........... 0.18 2.19 8.71
Ferric Oxide and Alumina (Fe203,A1203). 3.77 1.83 Trace
Silicon Di-oxide (Si@2).... ............ 2.88 1.55 3.12

Total Solids =... 200 lve 80.25 47.48 51.26
Cortes : H=S and
EE a i aT Fret Oz. COZ

HYPOTHETICAL FORM OF COMBINATION.

Seigler Springs
Altitude 3,000 Feet
Grains in each U. S. Gallon

Name of Spring
Iron Magnesia Geyser

 

Name of Salts Formula T.100°F, % T72°F ToL.
Soditim Chloride (NaClY................. 25.17 14.18 21.34
Sodium Carbonate (NazCO3)............ 22.12 21.20 18.27
Seodivm Sulphate (NazS04).............. 2.24 3.15 3.12
Potassium ‘Chloride (KCl)............... 6.13 6.18 6.15
Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3)......... 25.74 16.58 18.07
Magnesiam Chloride (MgClD)............. 4.11 2.02 3.24
Calcium Chloride and Carbonate......... 6.34 5.53 4.44
Perrle Oxide (Fe2O3)......... .......... 77 64 31
Silicon Dioxide (Si0z).................. 11.44 9.15 11.00

Total Solids... on... a 104.06 83.73 *85.04

The “Lithia” Spring upon analysis shows the presence of the Salts
of Lithia.

*Free Carbon Dioxide Gas.
pi 4

PALM SPRINGS, RIVERSIDE COUNTY | 34 2
THIS IS A SMALL HEALTH RESORT ON THE EDGE OF THE DESERT.

THERE ARE GOOD TENT HOUSES WITH SCREENED PORCHES, MUD AND
TUB BATHS, AND AN OPEN-AIR PLUNGE. THE ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS
ARE PECULIARLY FREE FROM ALL DAMPNESS, MAKING IT ADMIRABLY
SUITED TO TUBERCULOSIS CASES. THE RESORT 1S NINE MILES FROM
THE PALM SPRINGS STATION OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD

 
 
 
 
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