PERUVIAN TEXTILES A Contribution to our knowledge of the TEXTILE INDUSTRIES of the Ancient Peruvian; People. F ORTY PLATES with explanatory text H. C. fiERLEBERG I5 EAST 40th STREET NEW YORK Studios: Jersey City, N. J. HE purpose of this volume is to give a general picture of the textile materials found in Ancon Peru, 1n other words to disclose the developement reached by the weavers art in this part of the Peruvian domain. It was necessary to portray a considerable number of woven pieces in order fully to illustrate the diversity of design, the manner of arranging the colors, the various weaving processes and their embellishment by means of coloured patterns often introduced by special methods of binding, lastly the ornamentation of the materials with borders, trimmings and passementerie sewed on or to the piece. In the selection of the available material preference was given to the more highly ornamented specimens, not however to the neglect of simple unadorned fabrics, as well as knitting, plaiting and network. The gorgeous effect of garments prepared with such materials may be best appreciated from a few specimens, whose brilliant colours have scarcely suffered perceptible loss, and may even be surmised from such pieces as have faded in the course of centuries from the mould of the grave. in the ornamentation we are struck by the frequent use of the human form and animal figures, the bird, the fish, and the puma, as well as by the absence of motifs borrowed from the vegetable king- dom. By a skilful use of colour effects a great diversity of design has been developed from an essential limited store of forms. in the preparation of the plates the greatest possible fidelity to the originals has been the first consider- ation. The texture of the fabric is reproduced most exactly by the photographic picture; the use of photographic plates highly sensitive to colour has rendered it possible to illustrate the fabrics true to their original colour values. The textiles are arranged according to the style of costume for which they were used, the series beginning with jerkins and smocks of the poncho type, followed by the trimmings of garments of the talaria type, and ending with the trimmings of simple cotton garments and of simple cotton cloths. The borders and border-like ornaments, which were partly found separated from the materials, form a division apart. At the end are brought together some self-coloured loosely woven fabrics remark- able for their peculiar texture. With no arrangements made for holding and carrying various indispensable objects in the. garments, pockets must be worn specially prepared for this purpose. Such was the case with the ancient Indians as is shown by the large amount of pouches found in the graves ; finely worked woollen bags embellished by rich designs, in weave or painting. These pouches are illustrated on pages 37-40. In concluding a few paragraphs, from the leaflet on Peruvian Art, by Mr. Charles W. Mead, published by the American Museum of Natural History, may be cited: “It always gives an added zest to the work when we know something about the material from which we are drawing and for this reason it will not be out of place to say a few words about the history of these cloths. They all come from prehistoric graves, many of them were found still on the mummies when the burial places were excavated. A greater part of them came from the coast region which is a desert tract except for the valleys of the small rivers rising in the cordillera and flowing into the Pacific Ocean. These valleys were very fertile and there the people lived and buried their dead in the dry nitrous sand outside. Rain is all but unknown in this region, which accounts for the wonderful state of preservation in which these webs have come down to us. The first question that naturally suggests itself is—How old are these things? This question cannot be definitely answered. All that can be said is that they antedate the Conquest (1532); that they belong to different epochs, and that the oldest in all probability date back several thousand years. it is a Very common mistake to speak of such a collection of Peruvian textiles as the work of the lncas, for by far the greater part of them were made by the so-called Megalithic people who ruled the country many centuries before the rise of the lnca empire. F our motives continually occur in Peruvian decorations; the human figure, the bird, the fish, and the puma. These were everywhere employed throughout the country in designs which varied some- what in the different localities, showing that their arts had developed along slightly different lines.” . ..etc etc.. -»~ .1 1.1 '1 21’," - INDEX TO PLATES Painted cotton garment —- white, dark and light brown designs. Gobelins fabric ornamented in superior style. Counterpart of material on previous plate. Half of fine woollen garment. ‘ Richly ornamented woollen dress. Sumptuous garment (of a mummy). Tapestry with figures of warriors. Cobelins materials with human figures. -- Portions of woollen garments. Dress materials with geometrical patterns. -- Woollen pieces, worked in the gobelins manner. Gobelins stuffs with geometrical patterns and animal figures. -- Parts of woolen garments. Dress materials and borderings. Woollen gobelins fabrics with animal figures. Boldly ornamented dress materials. Ornamental cotton garment with woollen border. Dress materials with passementerie trimmings. Passementerie work. Border of a robe of the talaria type. ~ Trimmings of robes of the talaria type. — Woollen materials. Above: Borders of flowing garments. —- Below: Ornamented woollen corner pieces. Ornamented corners. Cotton cloths with ornamental corners and hem. Ornamental hems of small cotton cloths. Woollen trimmings of cotton garments. Cotton matérials with woollen trimmings. —- Portions of garments. Broad gobelins woollen borderings. ' Borders and border-like fabrics. Borderings and sleeve trimmings. Borderings of garments. Woollen borders of cotton garments. Woollen dress borderings. Border-like woollen fabrics. Woollen borders and cotton dress materials. Woollen borders. Sundry pieces of weaving. Diverse kinds of simple dress materials. Cotton stuffs reticulated and ornamented with needle work. Large and small girdle pouches. Woollen hanging bags. Woollen, cotton and net pouches. Pouch materials. ~-~».;_....w , ‘ "F-i‘W-I‘ynu out. a... y‘Ni .- ,. : . 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