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EDITED BY

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EXTENDS from the southern shore of the Dead Sea
in the south, to the southern slopesof Mount Her-
mon in the north, viz, from lat. 31° 10' to 33° 20'
north, which is almost identical with the Biblical
definition of the limits of the Land of Israel,
as extending “from Dan to Beersheba." From
the coast, Palestine extends eastward to the mount-
ains of Moab and Gilead, beyond the Dead Sea and
the River Jordan, Viz , from long. 34° 30’ to 36° east.
It is bounded on the north by the southernmost
spurs of the two mountain ranges of the Lebanon
and the Anti-Libanus, and by Mount Hermon; on
the east by the Arabian desert; on the south by
Arabia Petrea; and on the west by the Mediter-
ranean Sea. lts length from north to south is about
140 English miles; its average breadth about 80
miles; and its area nearly 10,000 square miles.

The name Palestine, or Palestina, derived from
the Hebrew “Palescheth,” which means “The Land
of the Philistines,” occurs in the Bible, in the fol-
lowing passages, Exodus XV. 14. Isaiah xiv. 29—31,
and should properly be applied only to the south-
western quarter of the area above described——that
portion stretching along the sea—shore from Gaza to
Czesarea, and inland to the mountains of J udea and
Ephraim, which was anciently ‘l’hilistia.

 

_4_.

The most ancient name of the country, however,
is Canaan ; and this it evidently owed to the descent
of the people inhabiting it at one time, from Canaan
the fourth son of Ham, and grandson of Noah. In
the time of Christ, when the Romans were in pos-
session of Syria, Palestine was divided into the four
provinces of Galilee, Samaria, Judea, and, Perea,
which last included all the country of Gilead and
Moab east of the Jordan and Dead Sea.

The country is very mountainous,and in one
part, namely, the valley of the Jordan, is much below
the level of the Mediterranean; its climate, there-
fore, varies greatly, some districts being very cold
and gthers Very hot, while the quality of the soil
varies at least as much as the temperature: some
parts, such as 'Hebron and the Plain of Sharon, being
extraordinarily fertile, while in other districts there
is little but rock, sand, and stones.

. Palestine is now, and has been for many Cen-
turies, under the dominion of the Sultans ofTurkey.
The Governor of Jerusalem, who holds his au-
thority directly from Constantinople, and has three
Kaimakams under him, governs the districts of the
Mutsaratiate El Kuds, which includes Hebron,
Jericho, Gaza, Jaftii, Ramleh, and Lydda, with
numerous Villages; while the northern districts are
under the Vilayet of Syria.

SKQEEA @311 “fiflfifl

Is'the main gate into Pales‘tine, being the nearest
seaport to Jerusalem. It stands on a svmmetrical
hill of rock which rises from the low sandy coast
and presents a‘ be autitul and picturesque appearance
1‘10111 the sea. The steameis of four lines touch
there weekly—the Austrian l leyds and the Poste
Khediviale twice a week, once from the north and
once from the south; hte Messageries Maritimes
and the Russian boats irom the Black Sea once a
week, passing northwards and southwards alter-
natelV. Besides these regular arrivals English and
French commercial vessels engaged chiefly 1n the
o1ange trade with little accommodation for pas-
i ‘enO‘er 1, and bound for different ports of Asia Minor
and3 the Islands of the Mediterranean, often stop
at Yafa especially during the Easter season.

Steamers anchor at some distance from the land,
and the boat which takes the passenger ashore passes
through the identicaljagged r et, to one point of
which And1 omeda was eh ained, and from which she
1 as 1ele1sed by l’e1seus whose piowess is come
111en10'ated by one of the most brilliant censtella=
tions in the sky.

Andromeda was the daughter of Cephens and
.loppa (the bible name Mr Yata), and the grand-
daughter ot' onlus, god of the winds. She“ was
chained to this rock by the order of Neptune, to be

——6——

the prey of‘a famous sea-monster. Perseus, return-
ing on his borrowed wings through the air from the
conquest. of Medusa, the-only one of the three
Gorgons that was subject to mortality, paused in
his flight at the sight of the beautiful and hapless
Andromeda, and promised her father to deliver her
and destroy the monster, if Cepheus would give
her to him'in. marriage. Cepheus consented, and
when the monster rose above the surf to devour
her, Perseus turned upon him the awful, snake-
enwreathed countenance of the Gorgon (from
whose dripping blood sprang the serpents that have
since infested Libya), and the sight turned the
monster into stone. Chains and aniron ring were
shown during the Roman period, and down to the
last three hundred years, in proof of this mythical
occurrence; but since A.D. 1600 they have disappear‘
ed. A modern sceptie reads the myth into the
tradition of a beautiful girl, roughly courted by
some monster of a sea—captain, whose attempt to
i carry aher off by force was frustrated by a more
gallant and successful rival!

Yafa was the southern boundary of the tribe
of Dan; and there the timber sent from the Le- ‘
banon by Hiram, King of Tyre, for the building
of Solomon’s Temple at Jerusalem, was landed.
It was also the port from which Jonah sailed on
that famous voyage which he concluded in the
belly of the whale; and atJoppa the Apostle Peter

._7_.__

restored Dorcas (or Tabitha) to life,——her»'ho-iise,"now ' '
subterranean, being still shown inan orange-garden
near- the town. Down near the port may be seen
the» traditional hOuse of 3Simon thevtanner, where‘
Peter lodged when he saw in a trance a great sheet '
letdown from heaven, full of livingcreatures, some
of which he. held- to be unclean and unfit for food,
but heard a voice cry to him from above, “What
God-hath cleansed, call not thou common.” (Acts-
iX 36, and X.‘ 1—34.) ‘

Yafa was anciently aPhoenician colony in Phi-4
listia, and according to Pliny it existed as a city
before the Flood; lts ancient name, Japha the
Beautiful, is said to have been derived'from'Japhet 1
one of the sons of Noah. This town is mention-
ed in ancient Egyptian vpapyri, and also in an
inscription relating to the victorious campaign
of Sennacherib, its situation, geographically, being
accurately described. As a part of Philistia, it
was brought under the dominion of the Jews
by the Maccabees, who flourished for a hundred
years, just before the time of Christ. They strongly
fortified the town, but it was taken and destroyed ,
by ,the Roman general, Cestius; rebuilt, it was
again destroyed by Vespasian, on the-plea that
it. was a den of thieves and pirates ; it soon revived,
and became a prominent Christian city, the Seat'
of a bishopric, which character it lost at one time,
owing to its conquest by the Arabs, but regained

—-—8-—-—

it later through the Crusaders. Yafa had many
reverses during the Crusades, coming into the
possession of the Knights of St. John (see descrip-
tion of. Muristan in Jerusalem), A.i). 1126; being
destroyed by Saladin, A.D. 1187; rebuilt, and a
second time destroyed by Saladin, A.D. 1191.; it
was recaptured by Richard the Lion - Hearted,
and finally taken again, in A.I). 1l96, by the
Moslems, under Melik el’Adil. In the 15th century,
Yafa, having almost ceased to eXist, was once more
rebuilt, surrounded by a city wall, and a quay
constructed, part of which still remains; but in the.
18th century this unfortunate town was sacked, first
by the Arabs, A.I). 1722; then by the Mamelukes,
A.D. 1755; and lastly by Napoleon 1., A.D. 1799‘.

Yafa has about 30,000 inhabitantstahomet-
ans, 18,000; Jews, 6,000 and Christians of the
Armenian, Greek and Latin Churches, and adher-
ents of the sect of the “German Temple’7 holding
peculiar Unitarian’and Socinian views, about. 6,000.
.lt has a delicious clii‘nate, and is surrounded inland
by 400- gardens or orchards of orange trees, each
garden covering from three ‘to twelve acres. The
Yaf'a. gardeners are'ngyptians, and live by them-
selves in suburban villages, composed of mud
hovels, as in-Egypt. Orange flowers and ripe
fruit are to be seen on the same tree at all times
of the year; and in April, the special season of
orange blossoms, their fragrance is waft-ed for fully

__ 9 _
siX miles over the Plain of Sharon, or as far out to
sea, according to the prevailing wind.

All the morning, on one of the pleasant balconies
of Howard’s Hotel, the traveller breathes the, per-
fume ofa bridal wreath, borne upward with the ris- 1
ing dew; for this balcony looks down into an orange
garden, and has an extensive View of the‘environs of
Yaf'a, with its sub-tropical vegetation, including
date palms and bananas, with the mountains ofJu-
dea on the horizon. Another balcony commands
~ the sea, the reef, a long stretch of coast northWards
towards Mount Carmel and Acre, and the Egyptian
suburb to the right ; while the old city, With
its minaret, climbs the hill on the left ,' with
the chief cafés and the busy market-place in the
foregr/ound. Along the highway, leading past the.
hotel, out into the open desert, stalk long pro-
cessions of patient camels in single file, tied head
and tail together, led or ridden by picturesque
Bedouins and their blue-draped women, whose faces
are decently covered by black veils and all whose
wealth is displayed in silver ornaments on their
heads and arms. Then come processions of circum~
cision, of marriage, or of burial, all gay with Mos-
lem banners, and noisy with Arab music and shrill
singing or wailing, according to the occasion. The
Moslem cemetery, lying north of ‘Howard Street’
and between it and the sea, is the scene of many
fétes andxceremoniesmall in full view of the win-

__10__

dows; groups of sheiks, or professional paying
men, who recite the Koran at five cents, or two-1
pence halfpenny a chapter; a harem, bewailing the
lost husband; a circle of dervishes, who chant and
swayin unison, led by one standing in the centre,
beside a grave newly decked with palm branches,
the ladies of the mourning family preparing and
~dispensing tiny cups of coffee under a tent pitched
close by; and on» Thursday, the weekly festive day,
all the Moslem ladies of Yafa resort to the cemetery,
theironly pleasure-garden and rendezvous, to pray,
picnic, and gossip from sun rise to sunset.
. Lively and amusing, too, is the scene from this
balcony at the start of parties of tourists intending
tomake the long tour through Palestine. They
mount their animals at the door, Orientals in gaudy
flowing garments volunteering much polyglot ad-
vice while skilfully loading the baggage animals,
the tourists meantime choosing their beasts, and
perhaps trying them in a preliminary canter.

Some prefer to make the journey on Wheels as
far as the roads are practicable for carriages, and
some provide themselves with palanquins home by
two mules

Tourists can (if they choose) reach Jerusalem, 88
kilometres—52 miles distant—in 31 hours by iail.
The railway fares are respec lor 1st. Class
15 francs or 12s, and for second lClass 4s. 6d. The
lin-eiamarrow gauge one.

          

___11___

Camp life in Syria, with its innumerable ingen-
ious details of equipment, has finally reached such
a state of perfection as to resemble a migratory
hotel life. Luxuries as well as necessaries are
provided, for the frugal informality of the Bedou-
in’s desert home is not appreciated or imitated in
the Christian camp. Chevalier HoWard, the well-
known Independent Tourist Contractor, when '
Visiting India, Egypt, America and Europe, to see
International Exhibitions, etc. ,. has everywhere
gleaned the most ingenious ideas and the “ ’cutest
notions,” and imported them to Syria. Boxes and
canteens, holding complete dinner sets, seats“ of va-
rious sorts, beds and tables strong yet light, riding

achairs, palanquins, tents large “enough for a dinner
party of forty, and small tents for the single lodger,
bottle racks, canned provisions of all sorts, bed-
ding and waterproof bags to hold it, kettles, rugs,
saddles—all these things, and many more, make
the Chevalier Howard’s tourist depots curious and
interesting museums of camp life. A complete
hotel of portable comfort can be packed on mules,
and despatched from Howaids at Yafa, en route
for the desert, or in any direction, at the short-
est notice.

In the German colony farther on is the J erusa-
lem Hotel, also clean and comfortable, though not
nearly so well placed for observing Oriental customs
and conditions easily and rapidly as Howard’s is; and

U
3L

.—-—- 1.2 —

in'the Street overlooking the landing-'place, in
the busiest part of the town, are the Greek and ‘
Armenian convents and the Latin hospic‘e, all of
which lodge gratuitously a throng of tired pil-
grims from Russia, Asia Minor, and Europe.
For a two-hours’ excursiOn northward to Napo—
' leon’s Camp and the N ahr (river) El Aujeh, the road
runs past the Egyptian suburb, through the German
Templar colony7 established in 1868*, and including
the last remnant of the American colony of 1866.
Where Church of England Services are held regularly
on Sundays in the licensed MiSsion Room of the Lon-
don Society for promoting Christianity amongst the
Jews. The Rev. J. E. Hanauer, who is in charge of
this Mission Station, will be pleased to arrange for
special Communion Services for travellers staying -
at Jaffa over Sunday, or to give them information
respecting the country &c. The usual hours of
Divine Service are 10. 30 o’clock on Sunday
mornings and 8 o’clock on Sunday evenings ~—
From the German colony the great main-road
leads on between high hedges of cactus, which
enclose orange gardens7 past the pleasant and
flourishing Village of Sarona7 a branch of the
German colony, lying two miles north-east of Yaf'a7 '
an‘dOut into the open 'cOuntry, With its charac-
teristic Scenery7 till the river is reached, whence
the return journey may be made by the sea-shore,
skirting the sandbanks, which having gathered

-13....

moisture during the winter, and being cultivated
by the Bedouins, who pitch their tents among
them, become exceedingly productive in the spring.
It is with the melons, Indian corn, grapes, and
other produce of these fertile sands that the Bedou-
ins load long trains of camels, which pass under
the balconies of Hotel Howard, to fill the stalls
of the market-place close by. The View of the
town from the shore on the north is extremely
beautiful, especially towards sunset, when the
Moslems are to be seen performing their prescribed
'ablutions and fifth daily prayer, with many pious
prostrations.

Yafa is now well provided with Infirmaries, there
being a large French hospital built and supported
by a wealthy and muniflcent merchant of Lyons,
M. Francois Diner, and a handsome and well-man-
‘ aged English hospital worked by Miss 0. Newton
and other ladies, and supported by their own
contributions and those they can obtain from others.
The Sultan’s firman for the building of this hospital
was procured by the exertions of Miss Mangan, who
had, with other ladies, carried on a medical. mission
in a hired house in Yafa for six or seven years
previously. The firman only arrived a fortnight
after the death of this devoted lady, which was
caused chiefly by the fatigue and anxiety incurred
during her efforts to obtain permission to bestow
the inestimable boon of a hospital upon the town of

“14......

Yafa. The great utility of this mission may be
gauged by the following extracts from its last ire-
p()1‘tS.f—CiTh€ Medical Mission is carried on five days
in every week, the patients often beginning to
gather round the gate as early as six am, in their
eagerness for the nine o’clock opening.” '
' “There are45 beds in the Hospital.——-—We accept
all classes and all creeds, from the tiny, black Mos
lem baby to the aged man or woman, be they true
followers of Jesus Christ or totally ignorant of Him
and His salvation. The number of both sexes ad- '
vmitted during last year (1894—95) was 497. Of
these 379 were Moslems, 23 Jews, 9 Protestants,
and the remaining 86 were nominal Christians.
We consider that £15 a year will support a bed."
Contributions to the Jaffa Hospital will be thank-
fully received by the Hon. Treasurer CE. Newton.
Mickleover, Derby, or by Crompton andEvans’
Union Bank, London. Irongate. Derby.”
, Near the Hospital, south of the town are the
Mission Premises of the Church Missionary Society
superintended by Rev. T. Wolters. In connection
with this Station there are, besides the European
superintendent, two nativepastors, and a staff of
teachers for the two schools for boys; and also some
English ladies. English and Arabic Services and
other meetings are held in the chapel close by.
Nearer the town and just oppositethe French
Hospital is the large and exceedingly interesting

__ 15 __
‘Tabeetha Girls’ School’ founded and managed
by Miss Arnott, and supported by SCOtch Presby-
terians. Connected with this important and valu-
able institution are branch schools in the town
of Jaffa itself and also in its suburbs.

At Howard’s Hotel is to be found a good collec-
tion of books on the Holy Land, as well as on other
subjects, and also a table covered with the latest
newspapers from New York, London, and Egypt.

Yafa is the main entrance to the Holy Land; and
travellers rush through it, eager to cross the Plain
of Sharon, ascend the mountains of Judea, and
. behold the Royal City of David and Solomon,
though there is much to repay a longer stay in
Yafa. Cairo and Alexandria are much Europ-
eanised, and so ispBeirfit; but the interesting
old town of Yafa is still purely Oriental in its
aspect and, population, and even in winter mud,
and amid summer dust and heat, the tourist
would do well to linger there awhile. '

. Unfortunately the easiness of transit to Jeru-.
salem by train in 3%— hours tempts tourists to
make too short a stay at Jafi‘a to be able to study
thoroughly the numerous illustrations and phases
of Oriental life which the place affords, or to visit
any of the places ofinterest, especially the recently
established and thriving Jewish Agricultural settle-
mentsffat Ayun Kara, Wady Hanein, Duran,
Ekron, Katra, Kustinieh and Mulebbus, all of
which are within easy reach from Jaffa, so that
it is pessible to visit several of them and return
in the course of 12 hours by carriage.

mass are menswear

BY CARRIAGE on oN HORSEBACK.~

 

FROM Yafa to Jerusalem by the di1ect route, which
is the onlyg good carriage road 1n Palestine (except
that fiom Jerusalem to Bethlehem and Heb1 on), 1s
36 111iles—32 as the crow flies—sand takes twelve
hours easy riding on horseback, and eight by car-
riage. The road crosses the Plain of SharOn (Isaiah
XXxiii. 9, and XXXV, 2), and then Winds 11p the
mountains of Judea to Jerusalem, which lies at an
elevation of about 2.600 feet above the sea. A night’s
sleep divides the journey either at Ramleh, (two
hours from 'Yafa) where there is‘a good hotel, or else ‘
at the half way house (which is not so comfortable)
at Bab el Wad in the mouth of the pass bywhich .
one enters the hill country. At either of these two
places the night may be spent unless the traveller
p1 et‘ers camping out in tents This halt more equally
diVides the distance and fatigue of the trip. This
road has forages been tlavelled by pilg11,i111s Jews

and Chi 1stians baiet'ooted f11a1s and devout nuns;

the dashing Ciusaders knew it. well; the timber
from Lebanon for the building of Solomon’s and
Ezra’s Temples was hauled over this road to
Mount Moriah; and Peter the Apostle travelled by
. it, stopping at Lydda on the way (2 Chron. ii.
1-—~17, Ezra iii. 7, Acts iX. Bile—38).

__.17._.

Leaving Yafa the road passes a handsome fount-
ain marking the tomb of a celebrated governor
of Yafa, Aboo N aboot This fountain 1s often pointed
out to travellers by dragomen as “ the House of
‘ Tabitha”.

Here a road branches off to the left by which one
reaches in a couple Of minutes the reCently built
Russian Church of St. Peter, the tall tower of
Which forms quite a conspicuous landmark. An
ancient subterranean and rock-hewn sepulchre close
by is pointed out as Tabitha’s tomb. There are
those who pretend that it was her house. Returning
to the fountain of Aboo Naboot, we again follow
the carriage road, and soon after emerging from
the pleasant gardens that environ the town, we,
begin to trace on the right the low, sandy 1idge‘
that sepalated Sharon from Philistia. Here we find
a model farm, founded by the Israelitish Alliance
0f Paris, where young Jews are taught agriculture;
and a little further on the left is the village of Ya-
zur7 the traditional scene of Samson’s exploit with
the foxes. (Judges XV, 4, 5.) At some distance
to the left the Village of Beit Dejan is to be seen
“(Beth-Dagon of the Philistines) ; also Lydda7 still
further off in the same direction, may be discover-
ed, embowered in palm and olive groves. The
hamlet of Serfend lies to the right, and then we
traverse a sandy plain until we enter the pleasant7
cactus-hedged gardens that surround

O

~18—
RAMLEH,

Traditionally Arimathea. (Matt. XXVii. 57-——60;
Luke ,XXiii. 50—53.) Ramleh is now a somewhat
ruinous towri, containing some 10,000 inhabitants
———7, 300 Muslims, and 2, 500 Christians, chiefly
belonging to the Greek Church, and about 200
Jews. The Muslim: town of Raliileh was founded
more than a thousand years ago by the KhalifSulei-
man after he had destroyed Lydda. It became
an important station at the intersection of the two
roads from Damascus to Egypt and from Yafa to
Jerusalem. It was occupied by the Crusaders, A. D.
1099, and was then, for nearly two centuries, the
scene of their conflicts with the Moslems, during
which time it alternately fell, now under the Cross,
and now under the Crescent, until 1n A.D. 1266 it
Was finally captured by the Moslems, The old
mosque, a quarter ofa mile from the town, was (so
some suppose) once a Crusaders’ church. Its beauti-
ful, tall, white tower still stands in good preserv-
ation—a landmark Visible from afar over the Whole
plain—and affords a magnificent map-like View of
the country from the mountains to the Mediter-
ranean. The ground is honey-combed with vaults,
one of which was the tomb of forty companions of
the PrOphet, according to Moslem tradition, or of
forty 111artyrs according to the Christians. This
beautiful relic with. its interesting surroundings,
may be examined in half an hour, making an agree-

1‘.

_19__

able'change and rest from'the saddle or the carriage.

On the northern side of the carriage-road are
the remains of a huge subterranean reservoir,
now in ruins, and called “Helena’s Cistern”.

The large mosque inside the town and not far
from the hotel, was undoubtedly, at one time, a
Crusader’s church. It it well worth a visit.

Between Ramleh and the next large village,
two miles further on to the right, is the tomb
of Aboo Shusheh. Near the tomb are the ruins
of Tell el Gezer, a royal city of the heathen, on
the b01der of the t1 ibe of Eph1 aim It was taken
by Pha1aoh and burned, and the land given by
him with his daughter to Solomon as a dowry.
Solomon 1ebuilt it (1 Kings iX. 16) with part of
the t1ibute that be levied afor the building of the
Temple and his own palace. Its. situation is des—
cribed in the First Book of' the Maccabees.

It was here that a few years ago the now famous
“Geze1 Inscription’ in ancient Heb1ew, and ma1k- ,
ing the limits of the land belonging to the ancient
city, was discove1ed.

Kubab, a modem town, is next seen on a 101v
ridge, whence we descend, and cross the broad

VALLEY OF AJALON.

“Sun, stand thou still upon Gibeon, and thou,
moon, in the Valley of, Ajalon. And the sun stood
still, and the moon stay ed. And the1e was no day
like that, befo1e it 01 afte1 it. ” (Josh. X. 12—14.)

Now we ascend the hill a little way to

LATROON.
A more picturesque situation couldnot be fOund.

__20__

The extensive ruins of a strong fortress crown the
‘mount above the Trappist convent, whence there IS a
[noble view reaching to the Mediterranean. The
foundatiOns'of the castle are Roman, the lighter
walls and pointed arches probably Saracenic; while,
«close by, the choir of a ruined Christian church
raises thoughts of the knights in armour, of the
pious pilgrims, and the gay Crusader minstrels that
once worshipped there Tradition through many
. centuries—perhaps ever since the day when three
10108863 stood on Calvary—makes this the birth-
place of the penitent thief.

NICOPOLIS,

X'Now Amwas, stands 1n full View of Latroon, a mile
,‘to the north-east, on the slope of a high hill. Tihs ._
"place rose to impor tancc in the time of the Macca-
bees (1 Mac. 1ii. 40), was rebuilt by Julius Af11ca-
,nus, and later on became an Episcopal see. In the
early days of' El- Islam it Was the Scene of fierce
.conflicts. It contains the 1 uins of a fine church '
' ’ YALO OR JALo,

A Village whiCh gives its name to the Valley of
Ajalon below it, is two miles eaSt of Amwas. (Josh.
xix. 42, andx. 12.)

North of Yalo, in the plain, is the large village of
. BEIT NUBA,

Also called Castellum Arnaldi, Where Richard Coeur
‘de l 1011 pitched his camp A. D. 1192.
- Half an hour or m01e beyond Lat1oon on the
way to Je11,usalem after passing two guardhouses,
. V18 leave on the right

JOB’S WELL;

And a few minutes later arrive at the. Bab el Wad,
where a café restaurant afl'ords travellers rest and
refreshment, and even bedrooms, if desired.

We pass now through ravines and over rocky
ridges, till we'reach the ancient Saris, whence there
is a beautiful view of the Plain of Sharon, bounded
by the sandhills of the coast, and beyond these the ‘
blue Mediterranean. Then on again over hills and
through valleys, always by an excellent road, until
at last we descend through terraced fields and olive

groves to
KIRJATH—JERAIM

(Josh. ix. 17; 1 Sam. i.) The substantial houses
here belong to the family of the daring Aboo Gosh,
a freebooting hero of great power and energy,
who, together with his six brothers and eighty-five
descendants, was subsidised by the Government, on
condition of protecting the road from robbers (on
the principle, probably, of “set a thief to catch a
thief ”). He died about forty years ago.

The fine old church here, a well-preserved ruin,
was built by the Crusaders, and still contains traces
of ancient frescoes. ‘

The place has been possessed in turn by Jews,
early Christians, Saracens, and crusaders; but in
earlier times it was called Kirjath-Baal and Baalah
(Josh. xv. 9), probably owing to the ancient worship
of that deity by the Canaanites in some high place
in or near the «town. It was a border town between
the tribes of Judah and Benjamin; and the Ark of
the Covenant, when restored by the Philistines,

'——22—-

was brought there from Beth-shemesh, and “placed
in the house of Abinadab on the Jiill,” where it re-
mained until it was taken by King David to J eru-
salem; and as we go on we are doubtless in the track
of that, wonderful procession described in 2 Sam. vi.

Many villages and ruins are seen between Kir-
jath-Jearim and Jerusalem which are not positively
identified by history, either sacred or profane. It
is supposed by some, however, that the ruin on a
round hill beyond Ekbala was the house of Obed
Edom,’ the Gittite, in which the Ark of the Covenant
rested, “and the house was blessed and the family.”
(2 Sam. vi. 10—12.) Passing on, the village of Kas-
tel,'anciently a fortress of the Maccabees, lies on our
right, while on the left we have a distinct 4 View of
the convent-crowned hill, called N eby (Prophet)
Samwil, which before we leave Jerusalem will have .
become a familiar landmark from many points of
View. It has been indentified with the ancient Miz-
. peh of Samuel. I. Sam. Vii. Jer. X1. and xli. Going

down the hill towards Kolonieh we see in the dis-
tance, on the right, Ain (fountain) Karim, the tra-
ditional birthplace of St.John the Baptist, a beautiful
valley, round which rise hills, terraced from top to
bottom, and planted with olive-trees, vines, and figs
in rich abundance, giving some idea of Judea as it
was in its more flourishing period. The justly
famous General Gordon lived for some time at Ain-
Karim before he undertook his last journey to
Khartoum. On the hillside to the left, is Kolonieh,
the Koulon of the Septuagint, in all probability,
the Emmaus, of the Gospel narrative. Kubeibeh,

‘ —. 23 —:

the traditional Emmaus, is not visible from here
being situated on the hills west of N eby Samuel.
It contains the ruins of an interesting Church. A
coffee-house at the foot of the Kulonieh hill pro-
vides thc'traveller with Wine, coffee, lemonade, etc.
and close below the coffee-house the road passes
over a brook from which tradition says David ch0ser
the smooth stones for his sling on the occasion when-
he fought and slew the Philistine giant, Goliath of
Gath. 1 (Sam. xvii. 32—51.) Half an hour further
on we pass, to the left, Nephtoah, on the boundary
of Judah (Josh. XV. 9, 15), now the village of Lifta.»
A great spring, and the stones of some very ancient
buildings, are to be seen at the entrance Of the
village. ' ‘ ' ;. ‘

W’e are now nearing the Holy city of David, the
Mount Zion of our songs, and though the approach
from this side presents a less impressive view than
from some other points, still, before us stands

JERUSALEM.

. O

gram we araansaaaaa e
BY‘ RAIL.

 

T-he railway-station at Jafl‘a is situated in the
northern suburb of the town, close to Howard’s
hotel. The line which is of 1.04 gauge, starts from
here, and after skirting the northern orange-gar-
dens passes SE. successively close by and to the
north of the following villages Yazur (population
960, Moslems), Beit Dejan (population 1.044, Mos-
lem) Safirieh (population 940, Moslem). The Lydda
station situated about % a mile from the town and
amongst the olive-groves, is reached in 36 minutes
after leaving Jaffa. From Lydda the train runs
south-ward till it reaches the Ramleh station seven
minutes after leaving Lydda. From Ramleh the line
works gradually south passing close by the little
village of Na’aneh (population 738, Moslem) and a
couple of minutes later one can from the carriage
Windows obtain glimpses of the plantations sur-
rounding the Jewish settlement maintained by
Baron Rothschild of Paris, at Ekron, from 2 to
three miles distant to the South as the line in its
Winding course enters the torrent bed called Wad
es Surar, (the Valley of Sorek of Samson’s story-—
(Judges xvi.4) where the first metal railway bridge
ever built in Palestine and distant from Jaffa 36. 75
kilometres is passed. Here theline turns again to the
south - east. Thirty -two minutes after leaving
Ramleh the little station of Sejed is reached. Half
way between this and the next station at Deir—

__25__

‘ Aban, which is reached in twenty minutes after
leaving Sejed the line follows an easterly direction.
As the train rushes along and crossesthe mouth
of the valley called locally Wady Boulos it passes
close by the dark grey heaps of stones and ruined
dwellings marking the site of

BETH SHEMESH V...

"or Ir Shemesh7 now called Ain Shems, one of the
“towns which marked the northern boundary of the
tribe of Judah (Josh. XV. 10), but not named in
“the lists of the cities of that tribe. Itois best known, _
“however, to the Bible student as the place to
which the Philistines sent back the ark from Ekron
after its calamitous stay in their country (1 Samuel
vi.9.12.) Beth Shemesh is also mentioned in the,
following passages Joshua XXi.16. I Chron Vi.59_.
I Kings iv.9. II Kings xiv.11.13. ll Chron.xxv.21.
23. XXViii.18. Conspicuous amongst the ruins is a
small Moslem wely or shrine which local traditions
say marks the tomb of Samson-~0n the hill top
further back and’looking d0wn the Wady Boulos
is seen the great Roman Catholic Convent at Bei’t
Djeinal, which is the head quarters of an agricultu-
ral school founded by Don Belloni of Bethlehem.
A couple of minutes after paSsing Beth Shemesh
the train reaches the station of Deir Aban on the
southern side of the. Wady Surar, just opposite to
the Jewish agricultural settlement. of Artouf', the
red tiled istone houses of which are seen on a low
. hill-top about a mile to the north. West of Artouf
the Wady Ghurab comes in fromathe north, whilst
on the high hill-top bounding the View to the NW.

.._26..._.

is seen a village and a White shrine. Thisis Sura’a or
ZORAH
the birth-place and home of the great Danite judge
and hero Samson. In the fields on the hill-side
between Zorah and the torrent of Wady Ghurab
there still exists a unique ancient monument, a great
boulder, hewn ages ago into the shape of an altar
with steps leading up its sides, whilst its perfectly
horizontal upper surface has grooves and cup hol-
lows for the reception of the blood and libations that
were necessary accessories to ancient pagan sacrifi-
ces. Archaeologists of note believe that this vene-
rable and interesting relic may be, either the rock
mentioned in the story of the appearance of the
,angel to Manoah and his wife (Judges xiii.) or the
great stone 'of Abel whereon the men of Beth
Shem-esh, “set down the ark of the Lord, which
stone remaineth unto this day in the field of Joshua
the Bethshemite”. I Samuel vi. 18. Both events
occurred in the same locality and, as the narratives
dove-tail into each other, they should be perused on
the spot with all the localities mentioned in full View.
‘. A couple of minutes after leaving Deir Aban,
the train dashes into the mouth of the great gorge
0f Wady lsmain, Before it reaches it however, one
gets a glimpse of the great village of Deir Aban,
with a Moslem population of about 2,000 on a hill-
side to the SE. Deir Aban is supposed by some to
mark the site of the Ebenezer of I Samuel vii.12.
’This identification is however open to many object-
ions—The railway-line now follow s the numerous
_' and often abrupt windings of the ravine, keeping

—- 27 —- _
along the mOuntain-side at an elevation of about
30 or 40 feet from the torrent-bed, and as much as
possible to the south of it, but in places 'where‘ ,
there is a sudden bend in, the gorge it crosses the .
stream to the opposite side and then back again.
Just after entering the ravine we notice in a prec-

ipice high on the northern bank a large cave "

with an ancient building 1n its mouth and a line of ‘
rook- hewn steps leadingb down to it. This rock and
cave7 which was once the. abode of 'hermits, is now
generally supposed to be the Rock Etam of Judges - *
XV. 8. 11. Further up other hermits’caves are seen 7
on the northern side of the valley, and on the other -
side one gets, as we proceed, momentary glimpses

of the Moslem Villages of Deir-el- Hawa, (population
I 154) Deir esh Sheikh (population 184) Er Ras
(population 280) and El Kabu ‘ (population 88)—-..
An hourand a quarterafter leaving Deir Aban 1
the train reaches the station at the ‘Moslein Village
of Bittir- (population 450.) Bittir has been with '
great probability identified with the ancient

BETHER

famous as the scene of the last catastrophe of the ,
Jews 1n their war against Hadrian (11.11.1355) under
the leadership of the celebrated false Messiah Bar
Cochba 011 Son of a Star. —-The village of Bittir is
situated on the southern side of the valley high
above the torrent bed A good fountain, issuing
from the rOck, which bears an ancient and illegible
inscription waters extensive gardens on terr.aces
An eminence about'a"q'uarter of an hour’s climb
north-west of the-Village still bears the name

~28—

“Khirbet ul Yehud”, ‘The Jews’ Ruin’. A wide
artificial trench cut through the solid rock, and
above which the summit of the hill rises about
forty feet, isolates it completely frOm the lower
and western ridge. The site has an area of five or
six acres, planted with olives, figs and Vines. There
is no trace of ruin except great heaps of stones and
the remains of a rough tower about forty feet
square. On the eastern side of the hill are several
ancient rock-hewn tombs. Jewish writers describe
Bether as a city of great extent and population
with many synagogues and teachers. Jeromespeaks
of‘vthe “many thousands” of Jews who had taken
refuge there from the Romans. The siege c0ntinued
for three and a half years, and the city was taken
with great bloodshed towards the end of the eigh—
teenth year of Hadrian A.D.135 For a full account
of Bar Cochba’s or Bar Cochab’s insurrection We
cannot do better than refer the reader to Book
XVIII of Milman’s History of the Jews. We can
only give anextracte—“When affairs beganto wear
a gloomy aspect, (thus write the Rabbins,) “Eliezer
the son of Hamadai, enjoined the besieged to seek
their last resource, prayer to the God of their
fathers. All day long the zealous Rabbi was on
his knees. As long as he prayed, like Moses during
the battle with the Amalekites in the Desert. so
long the Jews assumed new courage, and fought
with unconquerable fury. A Samaritan undertook
to silence by treachery the devout and prevailing
Rabbi. He stole up to him where he was kneeling
in, prayer on a conspicuous eminence, and whis-

 

__ ~29 __

pered some indistinct words in his ear. The Vi il-
ant Bar Cochba demanded what was the object of
his message. The Rabbi could not answer. The
Samaritan, after long pretended reluctance, declar-
ed that it was an answer to a secret message confid-
ed to him by the Rabbi about capitulation. Bar
Cochba commanded the Rabbi to be executed on
the spot. This barbarous measure alienated and
dispirited his followe1s. Bether Was at length storm-
ed, Bar Cochba was killed, and his headCD carried 1n
triumph to the Roman camp. ‘ It was again on the
fatal 9th of Ab, (August), the anniversary of the
double destiuction of Jerusalem, that Bether fell.
It was razed to the ground. Of the massacre the
Rabbins tell frightful stories. * * * * =* A more
tiustworthy autho1ity, Dion Cassius, States, that
during the whole war the enormous number of
580,000 fell by the sword, not including those who
perished by famine, disease and fire.”

Starting from the Bittir station the line luns
along the neithern side of the valley th1ough vine-
yaids passing Ain Hanieh or Philip’s Fountain,
(the traditional scene of the baptism of the Ethiop-
ian eunuch), and Ain Yalo; and in sight of the
Moslem Villages of El-VVelejeh (population 732)
Malhah, (population 626) Sharafat (population 84)
and Beit Safafa (population 384). This last 1s at the
opening out of the Valley of the Roses into the
traditional Vale or Plain of chhaim, famous for
two Victories of David over the 'Philistines. High
on the ridge to the left we notice the buildings at
Katamon the summer residence of His Beatitude

-,—-— 30 .—

the‘ Orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem. Seven large
mounds of stones on the left have been thought to
mark. Baal Perazim. II Sam.V. 20 .21. and two
minutes later, we reach the Jerusalem Railway
station close to the German Temple colony. Here
carriages are in waiting to take travellers through
the traditional valley and past the so-ealled lower
pool of ‘Gihon to Howard’s magnificent Hotel just
outside the J afia Gate. (See, Howard’s PrOspectus).

EEGEEEEQES EEE‘M EEEE.

SOUTHWARD:

 

                                          

Ashdod and Ashkelon;tli1ee of the five 1oyal cities
of Philistia.

To Hebron at Which is the cave of Machpelali,
(Gen. XliX. 28—33.) fifteen hours.

NORTHWARD.

To Mount Carmel, fifteen hours, Via Cesarea and
Castellum PeregrinOrum, now Athlit (1st Kings
xviii. ) Mount Carmel stands by the beautiful bay
of St. Jean d’- Acre. ‘

About an hour’s d-iStance nerth- east of Caesarea

‘is the Nahr ez Zeika undoubtedly the Crocodile

River mentioned by ancient writers (Sti abo Xvi. p.

738. Plin. V. 17-. 8.19) as located between Caesarea

and Ptolemais or Aere, and near which Was situated

the City of C1ocod1lopolls The crocodiles which
still exist in the 1na1 sh here, called “Mustanka at

Et Ti111sah C\“°\\ aha“; we supposed to be des-

cended from those Which ale said to have been

brought to Palestine above three thousand years,
ago in the time of Thothmes HI. by Egyptian colon-

ists accustomed to worship this ugly animal. A few
yea1s ago. the Chevalie1 A. Howa1d succeeded, for
the first time, in Obtaining the body of a (.1 ocodlle

.from this place, and p1esented it to the Palestine
.EXplomtlon Fund It may now be seen stuffed and

mounted at the Office of the Society 24, Hanover

QSquaieVV London, with the donm s name attached.

YAFA TO SHECHEM,
Now called Nablous. North east, twelse hou1s,
ov e1 the hills of Samaiia. .

ram re maesaaaaa

VIA THE BETHORONS.

 

THIS is a longer route, and is historically more
interesting than even the routes already described.
It takes two longish days, diverging from the main
road at Yazur, one hour from Y,afa and passing
close to the Village of Beth-Dagon ( now Beit Dejan),
whose name carries the mind back to hoar antiqu—
ity, Dagon having been the natiOnal deity of the
Philistines (1 Sam. V.) This town was in the midst
of their original territory, which included all the
country from Mount Carmel down to Egypt, as far
inland as the mountains of J udea, taking in there-
fore, of course, the Plain of Sharon. The Philistines
are supposed to have come from the Nile Delta,
and the name of their country, Philistia, is believed
to have developed gradually into Palestina. In the
times of'Moses and Joshua the Israelites failed to
annex the land of' the Philistines, who, 011 the
contrary, drove out the tribe of Dan, and conquered
the Israelites. (Judges xiii. 1; 1 Sam. iv. vii. and
xiii.) Their soldiers wore copper helmets, coats of
4-mail, and brazen greaves, and wielded the javelin‘
and a long lance; and each man had a shield-bearer,
like the Greeks in the Homeric poems. Their light
soldiery were archers. The Philistines fortified their

camps, lived in walled towns, and maintained ga1ri-
sons; they also competed with the Phoenicians on
the sea, and sought to monopolise the caravan
traffic between Damascus and Egypt. lheir secrs
formed a distinct class; and when at war they.

—— 33 —-- .
carried their idols-with‘th‘em into battle. In the
great war between Egypt and Assyria the country
of the Philistines became strategically important,
unfortunately for them; yet, only in the course of
ages did their kingdom pass away, when the Mac-
cabees of J udea, the last outcropping of Jewish
power, succeeded in subjugating and occupying
Philistia, about one hundred and fifty years before
Christ. _

Kefr’Ana, one of several Villages on our way, was
the Benjamite “Ono.” Then we reach, through fruit-
ful gardens, protected by high and formidable hedges
of cactus, the ancient city of Lydda, where St.
Peter was staying, when the disciples at J oppa sent
for him, to restore to life their dead friend Dorcas.
Lydda was the old Testament. “ Lod. ” (1 Chron.
viii. 12; Ezra ii. 33; Neh. Xi. 35.)

The town was burned by Cestius Gallus, under
Nero ; was rebuilt, became the capital of the district,
and boasted a Rabbinical School. Pelagius himself
here defended his heresy before an ecclesiastical
council, AD. 445. As Ramleh grew into importance
Lydda dwindled, losing its bishopric, which was
only temporarily restored by the Crusaders. Sala-
din completely destroyed it, A.D, 119-], and it was
only again rebuilt, to be once more reduced to
ruins when the Mongols sacked it in 1271, from
which time it has never recovered, although it is
still on the main caravan route between Egypt
and Syria.

Poor and pretty Lydda posseSses the original
Church of St. George, and early calendars say that

he was born there, and that after his martyrdom
in Nicomedia, his body was brought back to his
native town for burial. This chm ch was destroyed
by the Saracens on the approach of the C1 usaders
but it is supposed to have been rebuilt by Richard
‘ Coeur- de- Lion, and is still one of the most pictur-
esque ruins in Palestine. It has been partially
restored by the Greek Church, now in possession
_ but the modem pilastcis are distinguishable at a 1'

glance from the old. The crypt of St. George is
below the altar.

Mahomet declared that at the last Day Christ
will slay Antichrist at the Gate of Lydda.

GIMSO

(2 Chron. XXV‘lii. 18) on the caraVan 1aod, half
an hour from .Lydda, has la1 ge subterranean store«
rooms for grain.

MIDYEH,

A'mile and a half off our route, is a large Village
on a jutting hill, half a mile from which are seven
ancient tombs, which were once enclosed by a inas-
sive wall. Cneuof them contains a chamber, covered
and floored with slabs; it was formerly surmounted
by a pyramid, the sepulchre being below. The
‘ research of Dr. 'Sandrecski, of Jerusalem, has ident-
ifiedthese remains as the royal tombs of the Mac—
cabees, described by Josephus, and mentioned in
theFirst Bookof' Maccabees, xiii. Close by are
many other sepulchres of great antiquity, and the .
place is known among the Arabs as Kabur-el-

Yehfid—f—“The Tombs of the Jews.”

__.35 __

On the crest of avstony ridge, three hours from
Gimso, is a hamlet where are to be found the
foundations of some ancient buildings, with heaps
of large stones. This was

THE NETHER BETH—HORON

One hour above which stands
' THE UPPER BETH—HORON,

Ancient towns built by Serah, the daughter of Eph-
raim (ICh11on. vii. 24); and rebuilt by Solomon as
"" fenced cities, with walls, gates, and bars’ (2 Chron.
~ viii. 5), on account of thei: important position, com-
manding one of the principal passes from Jerusalem
“‘to the sea. Between the Upper and the Nether
lay the Descent of Beth- lloron, down which Joshua
. drove the five Amorite kings and their hosts. (Josh.

1X. 10, 11.) Beth—Horon was one of thefour cities
of refuge of the tribe of Ephraim. (Josh. xxi. ‘
20— 2/. t3) The once important Beth- Horons are now
the poorest among poor villages; but like all Arab
villages, each haso its sheik, a he1ed1ta1y dignitary,
to whose noble keeping 1s given the guest- -chambe1
(5f the place, called the 111edyafah,or guest house
“in which he dispenses the village hospitalities to
{all travellers, towards the cost of which every in-
‘iihabltant contributes his share annually. However
‘11ough and bare the room, and however poor the
far; this gracious idea of the duty of hospitality
;;is always kept up , and with it that graceful dignity

fdemeanour which has descended through ages
of a long extinct but grand civilisation, and which
' has never forsaken the Oriental even distinguish-
.ing to this day the still savage Ishmaelite.

 

~36—

The house of the sheik of the Upper Beth-Horon,
*now the chief of but a few poor shepherds, is still
as rich in one respect as ever in the days of power
and glory. Ascend to the terrace-roof, and you
will see a grand landscape, which time and change
cannot take from desolate Beth-Horon. We see the
western slopes of the mountains of Benjamin, Eph-
,raim, and Judah; and among them an old Cru-
sader’s castle, Ras Kerker, and the Calcalia, to
which Ivelin marched after burning Ramleh. From
the base of the mountains spread the wide plains of
Sharon and Philistia, strewn with white towns,
each set in its bower of fruit trees—Ramleh, with
its tall, white tower; and Lydda, half hidden byits 4
groves of olives and palms; and far away, on the
border of the sea are Cesarea and Yafa. Looking
down to the Lower Beth—Horon, we see Ajalon on its
long, low ridge, with the Valley below it; while
eastward, the old Imperial Roman road to Jeru-
salem winds up a steep ascent. Following this road
to the top, Neby Samwil and Gibeon burst upon
the View, and we know that our road is unquestion-
ably that on which Joshua pursued the Amorites.
Josh. ix., X., xi.) This was also the scene of the
story of'Joab, and of Asahel, who “was light of foot
as a wild roe’,’ (2 Sam. ii. 12—24) ; and of Solomon’s
dream in Gibeon (1 Kings iii. 4, 5), for this was the
high place that was at Gibson (lChron. xvi. ’39),
and here were “the great waters that are in Gibeon.”
(Jer. Xli. 12.)

In one half hour more we have ascended 3,000
feet above Yafa, and stand upon the hill commonly

called Neby Samwil, which is: Witfiout doiibt the
ancient ’ ~
MIZPEH .

(1 Sam. X. 17; and Jer. X1i.), whither Samuel
“called the pe0ple together unto the Lord” to
choose a king. And they chose “Saul the son of
Kish,” of the tribe of Benjamin—~“andhe was
higher than any of the people, from his shoulders
upwards”—-“and all the people shouted, ’and said:
‘God save the king!’ ” The Crusaders believed this
place also to have been the “Shiloh” where Samuel
was trained (Sam. i. and iii.) ; and Where the Ark of
the Covenant was kept (Josh. XViii. lw26, XiX. 51,
god. 2, xxii. 9—12; Judges XViii. 31, XX. 1-——3;
' Sam. iV., vii. 5—17; 1 Kings Xiv. 2, 3, 5), until it
was desecrated by “the wickedness of my people
Israel" (Jer. vii. 12—14), after which its fate was
used as a warningto the people of Jerusalem. (Jer.
XXVi.6—9-.) Never before have we so understood the
Bible, which is the true Guide Book to Palestine.

From this height Central Palestine is spread out
around. us like an embossed map. To the north lies f
Gibeon, and beyond it Ataroth, Beeroth, and Bethel,
where Jacob dreamed, “and behold a ladder set up ‘
on the earth, and the topof it. reached to heaven:
and behold the angels of God, ascending anddes'
cending on it ;” “and he was afraid, and said', How
dreadful is this place; this is none other but the
house of God, and this is the gate of heaven.” (GeQn.
xxviii. 12—22.) Hence we see the distant peak of
Ophrah, Rock-ltimmon, and the Ramah of Benja-

min; to the east, the bare summit on which stood
.

¢

. —- 381—— . g - ,
athe Gi'b-eah of Saul, now called Tell-El-Ful; the

mountains of Gilead and Moab on the other side of
the Rivei Jordan; to the south- east the Mount of
Olives and the domes and minarets of Jerusalem,

near which appea1 the truncated cone of the Hero-
' dium, or Frank mountain, and the town of Beth-
lehem; to the south- west 1ise the J udean hills, with
Nephtoah and many other villages on their slopes;

1 while to the west spreads the gieat plain of ancient
Philistia, Whose margin was the sea with the cities
of Lydda, Ramleh, and, Yafa, well marked on the
'. wide living map. _

The walls of the small village, which is all that

It remains of. the once, famous city of Benjamin, with

its watch-tower of Mineh, are partly hewn out Of
the mountain 100k; them are also rock- hollowed
~ reservoirs, and great blocks of building stones,

showing t1 aces of23 great antiquity. Following hence
the ancient Roman: road we enter J erusalem by the
' .zzDamascus Grate. .

q

7 JEEESQSQEM.

. ' HISTORY. -.

A THOUSAND years before Christ, David took from
" the J ebusites their stronghold and capital, J ebus.
’ (2 Sam. v. 6, 7; Judges'xix. 10, 11.) This town
Was fortified by Nature with deep valleys ‘all
" around it, except on the north. The Jewish nation
had already existed almost a thousand years since
the days of Abraham, andhad overcome the
Jebusites in battle; but had never till then got
possession of their main fortress on Mount Zion,
the residence of their king. The Hebrew power
and glory was at its zenith under the conqueror
David, and under Solomon, his successor, who
built the Temple ;*but it began to decline when
' Israel i‘evolted from- the rule of Rehoboam, the son
of Solomon, during whose reign the Egyptian king,
Shishak, entered Jerusalem, which had now become
the capital of the kingdom of J udah only, and des-
poiled the Temple and the Royal Palace. One
hundred years later, under King Jehoram, “the
Lord stirred up the spirit of the Philistines, and of
the Arabians that were near the Ethiopians,” and
they took and plundered Jerusalem. (2 Chron.
«.Xxi. l6, l7.) Sixty years later Israel defeated
Judah, broke down the. city wall, and carried off
the gold of the Temple and of the palaces. (2
.Kings xiv. 13, ,14) Flfty-two prosperous years
under Uzziah re-established and» fortified J erusa em
(2 Chron‘. xxvi.), although within that period the
city... suffered from a great earthquake, On the

 

‘.

.U

O I .— 40....

approach of Sennac1he1ib, King of Assyria, about
seven hundred 3ears before Christ, the fortifica-
tions were repaired by Hezekiah (2 Chron. XXXii. ),
who also brought the water from the upper water-
course ofGihon straight down to the west side of the
eity of David -.(2/Chron XXXii- 30); but whose son,
ManasSeh, “reared up altars for Baalim” (XXXiii. 3),
“wherefore the Lord brought upOn them the cap-
tains Of the host of the king of Assyria, which bound
. im in fetters, and carried him to Babylon.” (Verse

11.) Later on, however, having repented he built
walls about the cit37 of David Dand fortit1 ed all the
fenced Cities of Judah.

' . About siX hundred years before Christ, the Chal-
adeans,‘ under Nebucadnezzar, pillaged the royal
' :"palaces and the Temple; and carried away to Bab-
.ylon “the remnant of the multitude,’ with King
, Zedekiah, 11110111 they had blinded, “but left of the
“poor of the land to be 1inedressers and husband-
111en.’ (2 Kings XXV. 11, 12) On this occasion
Jerusalem had stood a siege, with famine and pesti-
:lence, for one year and tour months. B11536 C73-
Crus, king of Persia sent the Children of Israel
back to Jerusalem to 1ebuild the Temple, which
work was stOpped thirteen years later by or1de1 of
. A rtaxerxes, and only finished b3 permission of Dan
’1 rius in B. C. 515. Nearly three- quarters ofa centur 37
later the walls were rebuilt by the Jews under Ne-
.hemiah, in the teeth ot the Violent opposition of
their neighbouis, “the Arabians, and the Ammon-
sites, and the Ashdodites, ’ ‘who weie 1e13 1171oth,
and conspired all of the1i1 together to cotne and to

..._41__

fight against Jerusalem and to hinder’it,” so that
“they which builded on the wall, and they that
hare burdens, with those that laded, everyone with
one of his hands Wrought in the work, and with
the other hand held a weapon.” (Neh. iv. 7, 8 and
17.) “So the wall was finished in fifty and two days.
And it came to pass that when all ourenemies heard
thereof, and all the heathen that were about us saw
these things, they perceived that this work was
wrought of our God.” (Neh. vi. 15, 16.) The city
was now gradually rebuilt; but later on it opened
its gates to Alexander the Great, and after his death
passed under the control of the Seleucidae and the
Ptolemies. About 150 B.C. the Maccabees, a noble
and sacerdotal family maintained the nation-
ality of the Jews for a hundred years; but they
were finally conquered and cruelly destroyed by
the Romans. In the struggle with Pompey 12,000
Jews perished. He penetrated intotheir inmost
sanctuary, yet generously left their treasures un-
touched; “for that the Romans, who had no rela-
tion to those things, had a reverence for their sae
cred rites and places, although they belonged to their.
enemies, and had till now kept their hands off from
meddling with them,” as Josephus reminded the
Jews, when urging them to open their gates to T i-
tus, and thus save the Temple and the city from
certain destruction. -

The most determined resistance and terrible
bloodshed attended the establishment of Herod the
Great’s power in Jerusalem, they having been
“encompassed and besieged for six months, till as a

"—42—-

puniShment for their sins they were taken, and the
city was plundered by the enemy,’ says Josephus.

Herod then refortified it, and embellished it with
Sumptuous palaces. The massive substructions of
one of the towers nOrth of his palace are still to be
seen near the Yafa Gate. He also built a theatre
'and agymnasium, surrounded by colonnades. Sub-
urban villas extended far northward; and the popu-
lous city, well and wisely governed by the Romans,
with lofty walls and numerous towels, was magnifi-

cent at the Christian era

After Christ s death, Agrippa enclosed the north-
‘ern suburb within the city, and this being the only
portion not protected by natural situation, he began '
to build the wall on so grand and massive a scale
that he was forced to leave it unfinished on account
of the jealousy of the Roman emperor. At last
the J eWs again tried to throw off the Roman yoke;
and then, after a long and te11rible siege by Titus,
came the burning of the magnificent Temple, and
“the final min of": Jerns 1le111, AND 70; since which
time it has had no political importance, except as
a battlefield for rival religions, which it is to a cer-
tain extent down to the present day. The Arch
of Titus, in Rome, commemorates this great siege
and Victory, after which Jerusalem ceased to exist
as a city, until the ltoman Emperor Hadiian built
a new town on the old site. It was called ZElia Ca-
pitolina, Elia after the p1enomen of the empcio1,
. Capitolina as dedicated to the Jupite1 of the Capitol
at Rome. Centuries passed, du1 mg which Je1usale1n
had 1anished from the iecords of histor,ye except

.__43__..

that recurrent prohibitions against the entrance
into it of Jews are recorded. Constantine the Great
made them free of the city, but later onthey were
again excluded. As Christianity spread, Jerusalem
began to be Visited by pilgrims. Persian, Byzan-
' tine, Saracen, Turcoman, and Crusader conquered
it in turn throughout the Middle Ages; but ever
since, the collapse of the Christian kingdom of
Jerusalem, established by the Crusaders under
Godfrey de Bouillon, it has remained under the
sway of El Islam, though itis not clear what
changes the future may bring about in its destiny.
" Mahometans believe in the Old Testament pro-_
phets, in J esusChrist, and that the latter was mi-
raculously born through the power of the Divine
Spirit, and hence they apply to him the terms “Esa,
min Rauh Illah (413 l C” 5,.» 6&9) which means“Jesus,
of the Spirit of God”. Their special article of faith
is the belief in Mahommed as the greatest, though
not the final prophet. They seem to believe vague-
ly in the ultimate overthrow of Mohametanism;
traditional legends connected with their most sa- -
cred shrines, foretell its approaching end at some
grand and awful epoch in the destiny of the human
race. A Moslem tradition is often falsely said to
predict that when the Golden gate of the Haram
Esh' Sherif shall be reopened, and when the last of
the nineteen golden nails driven by Mahomet shall
fall from the jasper slab in the pavement of their
greatmosque’s chief entrance, then the end will
Come When the Muslim will submit to fate—for
submission is El Islam. ' '

4-

-—- 44 —
THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF JERUSALEM.

Jerusalem is situated in 31° 47’ north lat. , and
in 35° 15’ east long, among the mountains of
J udea, 32 miles, as the crow flies, from the Medi--
terranean Sea, and 2.600 feet- above its level. It is
14 miles west of the northern extremity of the
Dead Sea, to which, when we ride thither we shall
make a descent of nearly 4 000 feet-—the Dead Sea
and the whole Jordan V alley from the Sea Of Ga-
lilee being of a phenomenal depth below the average
surface of the earth. Jhe Sea of Galilee (011 Lake
Tiberias) is 625 feet, and the Dead Sea 1, 295 feet,
below sea level.

HOTELS AND Hos111cn.s

HoWards Hotel, not f1r from the Jaffa and Da-
mascus Grates, witliout the walls, is a splendid speci-
men of the modern Jerusalem style of house, and
has many balconies, from Whl(ll fine views are to
be obtained of the Mount of Olives, with the dis-
tant mountains of Moab 011 the eastern horizon, and
the ancient walls and towers of the city in the fo1 e-
grOund. The glow of glory which every early 11101 n-
ing seems to radiate frOm the Mount of Olives,
and the marvellous opal-escent tints with which the
Sunset paints the mountains, can never be forgotten,
This hotel is most healthily and beautifully situa-
ted. It is newly furnished, and is prOvided with
every comfort and convenience that visitors could
desire.

Close to Howard s Hotel are two small but decent
hotels, namely; Hotel Feil to the South and Hotel
de l’Europe, to the North———J1.1st inside the Jaffa

__.45__.

Gate is the highly recommended Grand New Hotel
kept by Morcos, and Mr. A. Fast’s Lloyd Hotel.
On the J affa road about a mile from the J affa Gate
is the highly recommended Jewish Hotel kept by
Kaminitz—where Christians as well as Israelites
may lie accommodated and served according to the
Jewish dietary law with ‘kuschar’ provisions etc.

Beside these, there are six hospices for the ac-
commodation of travellers and pilgrims of different
classes and nationalities, viz. :—-—T he Latin HOSpice,
called the Casa N ova. the best building of the sort
in Jerusalem; and not far from this, just outside
the walls, at the New Gate in the N. W. Angle of
the City, the Augustinian Hospice, called “Notre
Dame de France and intended principally-for the
accommodation of the Roman Catholic pilgrims
of the “Pelerinage de Penitence”. (Immediately ad-
joining the Augustinian establishment isthe French
HoSpital of St. Louis); the Russian Hospices, just
beyond Hotel Howard, within the enceinte of the
Consulate and other Russian buildings; the Prus-
sian and the Austrian Hospices. All these establish-
ments expect well-to-do travellers to pay for their
board and lodging, though the Casa Nova and one
of the Russian Hospices house poor pilgrims gratis.

Cf hospitals, we may mention the Russian within
the Russian Quadrangle, and, in the great road lead-
in g NW. of the same to the J affa road, the follow-
ing in the successive order in which we, here name
them. 1. Rothschild’s, a Jewish institution recently
built. 2. Dr. Sandreczky’s small Children’s Hospi-
ta]. 3. The magnificent HOSpital of the German

Kaiserswerther Deaconesses. 4. The large new Hos-
pital, still in building, of the Society for Bro’moting
Christianity amongst the Jews, in charge of Dr. '
Wheeler who will be pleased to give all information
he can to t1 avellers and on the J affa Road itself
the Hospital belonging to the Municipality. Inside
the city there are several s111alle1 Hospitals. The
Ophthalmic Hospital maintained by the English
b1anch of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem is
on the road fromb the 1ailway station to the Jaffa
Gate. It is in charge of Dr. Cant.

'l H 11 WALLS.

The city of Jerusalem, not including the exten-
sive and modem suburbs 011 allsides, is benclosed by
a wall, which at one part is fully 70 feet high. It
is 2% miles 1n circuit. and has 34 towers and 7 gates.
The wall is so constructed and so thick. that one
may walk nea1ly,1f not quite, its whole circumter - ~
egnce on the top of it, within its battlements; and
this is one of the best methods of seeing and under-
standing the city, as itclearly locates in the mind
its various quarters, the situation and direction of
its principal streets and buildings. and the lie of the
nearly filled up Tyropoeon Valley. The present walls
were, as is testified by Arabic inscriptions built in
over the old Gates, and into other parts of the struc-
ture, erected by the Ottoman Sultan Soliman the
Magnificent about the year 1140, in some places
(especially the Eastern and Southern walls of the
Ha1 am E nclosure) on ancient foundations still visi-
ble above ground and which give agoOd idea-of
the massiveness of the ancient Hebrew masonry,

‘ o

—47—-~

of which Josephus says in his description of the
Siege of Jerusalem :—“The largeness also of the
stones was wonderful...... Each stone was twenty
cubits in length, and ten in breadth,'and five in ,
depth. They were so exactly united to one another,
that each tower looked like ene entire rock of stone,
so growing naturally, and afterwards ,cut by the
hands of the artificers into presentshape and cor-
ners; so little, or not at all, did their jointsor con~
nection appear.” * .
, ' .THE GATES,

All occupying ancient sites are, the Damascus Gate,
built in Saracenic style; Herod’s Gate; St.Stephen’s '
Gate ; the Golden Gate (not in use); the Dung Gate;
the Gate of Zion; the Yafa Gate called by the na-
tives Bab el Halil; the Gate of the Friend (of God, '_
i.e. the patriarch Abraham) because the road to'
Hebron starts from it; and the recently opened.
New Gate at the N.W. Angle of the City. The Da-
mascus Gate and the Yafa (also called the Hebron) ‘
Gate are named from the caravan routes that still, i
as in ancient times, lead up to them from those "
cities. The. Damascus Gate is on the north, and is .
considered the handsomest of the gates of J erusa-
lem. It was restored by Soliman in the year 944
of the Hegira, VlZ., in the fifteenth century. It con'-'
sists of two gate towers, which command a celebrat—
ed View, while beneath are subterranean chambers,
Herod’s Gate (called by the Arabs theFlowery
Gate) was long closed but is now open. St. Ste-
p‘heh’s Gate (towards which leads the Via DoloroSa)
. opens near one of the spots where Stephen was said

O

.. 48 __

to have been stoned. It is also called the Gate of
Our Lady Mary, because it leads to the chapel and
traditional tomb of the Blessed Virgin. The Golden
Gate has been Walled up, since the rebuilding of
the city walls by Soliman the Magnificent—Many
dragomen, and other people who revel 1n any thing
sensational. pOint to this closed gate as a fulfilment
of the prophecy by Ezekiel :-—‘1Then said the Lord
unto me, This gate shall be shut, it shall not be
opened, and no man shall enter in by it; because
the Lord, the God of Israel, hath entered in by it,
therefore it shall be shut.” (Ezekiel Xliv. 1, 2.) But
students of the’topography of Jerusalem and its
Temples believe that the gate refer1ed to was a dif-
ferent one, and inside the city. The Arabs call this
the Eternal Gate, its no1the1n arch being the Gate
of Repentance, arid the southern the Gate of Mercy.

Within it the Muslims have a place of prayer, which
is also within the precincts of the Bar am. They are
said to have a legend that on a Friday a Christian
' conqueror will enter the Golden Gate, and take
Jerusalem from them. Jhe filling up, the interior
columns and vaulting, are Byzantine, but the gate
itself very probably stands on old foundations, the
colossal monolithic jambs remaining in their 011 igin-

a1 position on eit1he1 side of the ancient and long-
closed portal. The Golden and the St. Stephens

.Gates are both 011 the eastern side of Jerusalem.
The Dung Grate 1s on the south, looking out upon
Siloah, and through this small gate alone, appro-
priated to low uses, were the despised Jews allowed
to come and go during the Middle Ages. The Zion

0

__49__.

Gate opens on the site of the city of David, near
David’s tomb on, Mount Zion, at the south-west
angle of the existing wall; and the Yat'a or Hebron
Gate is on the west. The gates are no longer closed,
either by night or by day. . '_
Josephus speaks of other gates, as, for instance,
“the Gate of the .Essenes” and “the Gate called
Gennath”; but the situation of these is uncertain.

POPULATION.

The city that at the time of the siege by Titus
contained, according to Josephus, considerably more
than 2,7 00,000 inhabitants, and guests come up for
the Feast of Unleavened Bread, now houses but
60,000: of Whom Jews form nearly two-thirds,
Viz., 40,000; Muslims; 10,000; and Christians ofall
sects, 10,000. The Jewish population has largely
increased of late in Jerusalem as well as in Pales-
tine generally, in spite of the measures taken by
the Government to stem the incoming tide. '

. THE STREETS.

, At first sight, to the stranger, Jerusalem seems
intricate; its streets being steep in parts, and many
of them vaulted over and Covered with houses. The -
chief streets, however, are long, and distinctly bound
the different quarters of the, city. That starting
from the Damascus Gate at first dividesthe Muslim
quarter on the east from the Christian quarter on.
the west, and theprolOngation of the same thorough-
fare separates the Jewish quarter on the east from
that Of the Armenians on the west. David’s Street,
leading from theYafa Gate to the Haram (Solomon’s

._ 50 ..__.
Temple), at first separates the Christian quarter on -
. the north f1 om the Armenian to the south; and, later
On, it divides the Muslim to the north from the
Jewish qnarter to the south. When the stranger
has also learned to follow the Via Dolorosa in its
devious course from near- St. Stephen’s Gate to the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, "Where wa,s it is
believe,d “the Western Wall,” and thence by
Christian Street into David’s Street, he 1s au font
of the chief thoroughfares, and has traversed the
length'and breadtho of modern Jerusalem. This,
however, cannot cover the full area 'of the ancient
city, which was able to accommodate at the solemn
festivals, as Josephus relates, at least as many as
932,7 00,000 persons that Were pure and holy”enough
for it to be “lawful for them to be partakers of the
SaCrificef ’not to mention the many thousands who
Were in all probability debarred by some physical
impurity or defect from this privilege. We hav e yet
i to learn how far Jerusalem extended at that and at
other periods of her greatest prosperity and glory.
The Tyropoeon Valley, or Valley of the Cheese-
1nonge11,s formerly par ted Mounts Moriah and Acra
from Mount Zion, but “in those times when the
Asamoneans reigried’ Josephus relates that they
filled up the broad valley which then divided Mount I
Moriah from Mount Aera, and reduced the latter
f‘to be of less elevation than it was befOIe, that the

Temple (on Mount Moriah) might be S1iperior to
it ;” and later on the accumulated soil of ages well-
nigh effaced the 'l‘yropeeon Valley itself, until now
{it is scarcely traceable, except from a height.» It

—-51—-.

began as some think, near the Damascus Gate, and
“distinguished the hill of the upper city” (the city
of David on Mount Zion) “from that of the lower”
(Viz., Mount Moriah, on which the Temple was,
joined to Mount Acra, On which was the lower city),
“and extended as far as Siloam,” for thus saith J o-
sephus! The ancient city at the time of King Ag-
rippa extended over a fourth hill, called “Bezetha,”
which is generally identified with the hill inside
and SE. of the Damascus Gate. The remarkable
monticule outside the Damascus Gate in Whose side
is the cave called the Grotto ot'Jeremiah, and whose
summit some authorities now believe to be the true
Golgotha, was originally part of Bezetha but became
separated from it by the huge artificial rock-cutting
or quarry, though the date when this took place is
uncertain. This hill rises between the upper valley
of the Kedron, and the northeastern end of the
Tyropceon Valley. There is here abundant subject
for study; the actual position of the several hills
and valleys upon which the city of Jerusalem was
built, as it stood in the time of Christ, having'hith-
erto given cause. to much difference of opinion be-
tween archaeologists. The exact sites also of the walls
of Agrippa and Herod, and of the walls described
in Kings and in Chronicles, are still questions for
the student of archaeology; while the cities of J e-
rusalem of the past, having been built and rebuilt

one over the other in successive ages, always on
the same site, now narrowing and again widening,
the new founded upon and partly composed of the
old, so that the city of to-day may be said to be

__59_

built upon two or three strata of cities A thousand '
interesting points in this venetable city await the
observing eye and that leisurely and scholarly study
which IS not often lavished on Jerusalem, through
which tourists generally pass at a gallop, regarding
it me1ely as an encampment, or at best as a sight
to be done 1n a few rapid days. The traveller should
read the Bible through once more in the Holy Land
itself, that being the only Way to a complete under-
standing and full enjoyment of'the book itself, and
of the land whose troubled and eventful history it
contains. 7

Starting from St. Stephen’s Gate, we pass the
Church of St. Anne, the mother of the Blessed
. Virgin, on the right, and on the left the Pool called
Birket Israel, now nearly filled up with rubbish,
and which till the re-discovery a few years ago of
the ancient double pool of Bethesda, to the N .W.
of the Church of St. Anne, used to be pointed out
as the pool of that name. At the Chapel of Scourg-
ing the Via Dolorosa begins, along whose course
are shown the celebrated Fourteen Stations of the
‘ Cross, at each of which myriads of pilgrims have
bent the knee in prayer; and whose traditions, hav-
ing been long the subject of the painter, are familiar
to most travellers through the pictures in illust1a-
tion of these legends, which may be seen in all
Roman Catholico and Oriental Chmehes. Shortly
after passing the Chapel of Scourging we see on the
right the Convent of the Sisters of Zion, well worthy,
as some believe, of a visit as containing the Ecce
Homo A1(:h, a relic of the Judgment Hall of Pon-

_..53_..

tius Pilate. It IS called the Ecce Homo Arch because
of the legend that Pilate placed ()ur Saviour upon
it to be seen by all when he (Pilate) exclaimed
“Behold the man!’ Modern explorers however be-
lieve it to be of a later date and probably a triumph-
al arch erected by Hadrian after his victory over
. Bar Cochab. Here also what some suppose is the
original pavement of the Via Dolorosa is shown,
many feet below that of the present day; and above,
on the roof ,terraces, the kind sisters permit their
visitors to enjoy the most perfect View of the H aram
and of Jerusalem generally, that can be seen any-
whele. This same View, only shorn of the admirable
foreground fo1med by the bar1ack and adjoining
mosque towers, may be seen also from the loof of
the Turkish barracks, occupying the traditional site
of the house of Pontius Pilate, on the opposite side
of the street. The visitor is strongly advised to see
and study one or other of these bird s eye views of
J e1 nsalem which will localise in the mind the
principal features and lines of the city. ‘ The Via
Dolorosa ends 'within the Church of the Holy
“Sepulchre. .
Star ting frOm the Y afa Gate, we have the ancient
Tower of Hippicus on the right, the Latin Patri-
me hate on the left and ha1d by the English church
Descending David Stleet by many broad, shallow
steps, we pass the G1ain Ma1ket and bazaa1s and
ar11ve finally at one of the gates of the Haram.

RELIGIONS, CHURCHES, ETC.

The Mahomedans revere Jerusalem as one of their
.four holy cities, only second to- Mecca, therefore

almost theirmost important plaCe 0f pilgrimage;
pilgrims to Jerusalem being honoured with/the title
of Hadji, like those to Mecca. '. ‘ -,

For the Jews, J erusalemis the one holy city, and
“here they come to die, and to be buried in its sacred
soil; and, living, to share the fraternal Charity
lavished on the ancient home of their race by wealthy
JeWs in all parts of the world. By these benefactions
Jewish children are here educated gratuitously.
There are also some prosperous Jews living in
Jerusalem ; but, in spite of all charity, the mass of
”the Jews here are abjectly poor and physically
degenerate. . -

One of the~ synagogues, of which there are three
principalandmany smaller ones, all of course in
the Jewish, quarter, should by all means be visited.
:Some area few centuries old, and the beautiful pale
{green dome 0f one of these is a conspiCuous feature
in the View of J erusalem‘ as seen from the Mount
_ fof‘Olives. Very fold and beautifully inscribed rOlls
Sof'lthe, QldTestament may be seen here. Jews are
n'oth'alIOWed“ to pass before the ChurCh‘ 0f the Holy
Sepulchre, they having crucified Christ. This is
an unwritten. law" passed and enforced by the less
“civilisedelements of the very heterogeneous Christ-
f‘ian body in JeruSalem; and they are still‘also rigor-
,Ousl‘y eXcluded by their own religious scruples from
theMoslem enclosure, where stood their King Solo"-
mon’s Temple in all its glory, althOugh'Christian's
have been admitted oft-late years to this jealously
“guarded spot. enclosing as it does the Dome of the
r-R.ock—-—one of the holiest of shrines to the Muslim.

__ 5,5 4....

These humiliating prohibitions, and the spirit
which has dictated them, make the Jews of Jeru-
salem atall times and places a little cautious, in
spiteof the strong but suppressed feeling of here-
ditarytownership in the royal city of their kings,
common to all Israelites, even to the somewhat
sceptical .and irreligious Jews, who may be found
even here among the mass of devotees. A retired
place, on the outside of the south-west wall of the
Haram, is the only spot where the Children of Is-
rael congregate freely to gaze at, to touch, and to
weep over the old stones hewn and laid there by
their great ancestors. -The foul, obscure entrance
to this place, through a narrow lane,is a fit type
of the abjeCt misery of their race here as elsewhere.
~'--Here they-come in numbers, especially on Fridays
——Jews of all countries and of all degrees, rich and
poor, men and women, some in velvet and rare furs,
,and some in squalid, rags—bringing with them their
Old Testaments, which they place in” the crevices
-between the massive stones, and from them read
aloud the story of their former glorious days; con-
fessing. their sins withftears and loud lamentations;
reciting touching prayers, and calling upon “the
God of Abraham, Isaac, andJacob" to remember
and fulfil His ancient promises to Hischosen people.
Those standing close to the revered wall rest their
hands upon it. sobbing, while, those further of stretch
out loving hands to touchitsstones. Old women sit
Tupnnthe ground reading or reciting the promises,
and stop to wipe away the'tears‘ that stream down

*theirfivrink'lezd'faces. . The Jewish quarter, being

'———56-——

on' the loWer slope of Mount Zion,'is bounded at
this side by this part of the wall of the Haramu
the celebrated Wailing Place of the Jews.

TheGreek Church is the strongest branch of the
Christians in Jerusalem, having eighteen monas-
teries, with schools, churches, a hospital, hospices,
and a printing press. They are able to lOdge at
one time as many as three thousand pilgrims. The
largest Greek monastery is in the ascending street
which leaves the Via Dolorosa at the-Church of the
Holy Sepulchre and leads into Christian Street The
Greek priests wear long hair, and tall black hats
with a rim projecting at the tOp instead of the bot-
tom, having a curious upside down effect to the
eye of the European, accustomed to the opposite
arrangement , while the Armenian priests wear
.pointed black hoods. .

The Armenian Convent is close to the wall be-
‘tween the Zion Gate, and the Yafa Gate, and here
- {they can lodge at one time one thousand pilgrims.
iThe Patriarch lives here with 180 monks and breth-
‘ren. They have an interesting church, a seminary,
museum, photographic studio, and printing press.
'An Armenian nunnery stands upon the site of the
‘house of Annas, the father-in-law of Caiaphas, near
the Zion Gate.

The Abyssinian and Coptic monasteries, near the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, are well worth a‘
visit. The Abyssinians have recently built a ver
strange looking church on the high land N.W. of
the lx’ussiamQuadrangle. - '

The Roman Catholics have here five chiirches;

_ 57 _
monasteries, and convents; several large schools, a
hospital, and an eXCellent printing press. There are
also churches, etc., belonging to other sects of '
Oriental Christians Owning allegiance to the Charch
of Rome. ‘ ' ‘ ',

The Latins, whose head in Jerusalem is the Latin
Patriarch, have also large accommodation for pil-
grims in several hospices; the chief of Which, the
Casa Nova, has been already mentioned. ,

The Knights of the Roman Catholic Order of
the Hospital ofSt. John, under the patronage of the
Emperor ovaustria, have established a large and
well managed hospital called Tanturah, near the
Tomb of Rachel, above the Bethlehem road to the
right.

Bishop Blyth, of the Church of England in Je-
rusalem and the East, resides outside the Damas-
cus Gate near to the Tombs of the Kings where a
Cathedral, Clergy House and other Diocesan In-
stitutions are in course of erection, Formany years
, England and Prussia joined in supporting the
bishopric, but about ten years ago this arrangement
was dropped and England alone nominates and sup-
ports the bishop. The London Society for promot-
ingChristianity amongst the Jews, and the Church
Missionary Society each furnishing a considerable
proportion of the episcopal stipend. The former
Society mantains a Church, Hospital, Schools and
other missionary Institutions in Jerusalem and the
Holy Land. The present Head of the Mission, the
Rev. A. Hastings Kelk. M.A., Christ Church—will

be glad to give any information that travellers may,

’—-58‘--

desire—The Church Missionary Society’s Secretary
in Palestine is the Rev. J. Longley Hall M.A. This
Society also maintains a Church (St. Paul’s) in-Je-
rusalem, as well as Schools throughout the country,
and a Staff of European and Native clergy.

, The Lutheran Church of Germany maintains two
_ Orphanages and a Hospital at Jerusalem, as well as

two out-stations with Churches and Schools at Beth-
lehem and Beit Jalah.-—-—The great Church now be-
ing re~built in the Muristan belongs to this Protest-
ant body which, as above mentioned, used to be
but is now no longer in connection with the Angli-
can Bishopric.

The Society of the German Temple, a religious
g sect founded about fifty years ago in W urtemberg,

and holding Unitarian, Socinian and Pelagian doc-
’ trines, has built here, as also at J affa and Carmel, a
_ flourishng and pleasant suburb called the German

Colony, to the right of the road to Bethlehem im-
. mediately after crossing the Valley of Gihon. They
. established schools, etc., and believed that the time
g has now come for the re-peopling and re-civilization
_ of Palestine, but of late years there have been quite

a number of schisms in the society and secessions
. from its ranks, and, as it gains no fresh adherents,
it becomes feebler from year to year.

A literary and scientific society has its head-quart-
ers at the house of Percy D’Erf Wheeler Esq. M.I).
the physician in charge of the London Jews’ Soci-
ety's Hospital.

—-—————_

@133 M‘MS 1%? turaaasam

The th1ee principal sights 1n Je111salem are the
Mosque omea1, standing on the site of the Temple
of Solomon, and all the other buildings above and
below the ground in the enclosure called by the
Muslims the Ha1~21;m the Church of the Holy Se-
pulchre ; and the Muristan, which last 18 the con-
glome1ate remains of numerous edifices raised on
the same spot in tl~ e course of ages from Cb1~a1 lemag-
ne to Saladin, but named f1on1 the madhouse estab-
lished the1e by the Moslems 1n the old premises oc-
cupied by the Knights of St. John before their final
expulsion 111 1188. Before Visiting these places we
would recommend the stranger to ascend the Mount
ofOlives, so as to get a general idea of their relative
positions. .

THE SITE OF SOLOMON’S TEMPLE AND PALACE
On Mount Moriah, is now occupied by a walled
enclosure, covering nearly one siXth of the present .
area of Jerusalem, which, in its Spacious and trim
cleanliness, contrasts a.~g1eeably 111 1th the crowded
squalor of the adjacent portions of the cit3. This
e-1.~,11(losu1e as a whole, is called by the Muslims “the
Ha1a111 Esh- Sl1e1ce t” (the Noble Sanctua1y), which
t1tle 1s commonl3 sl1o1tened to “the Haram” (holy
place, or sanctuary). That it was ever a mount,
separated from the district called Mount Zion, can
only be realised on a consideration of the many
cent111ies during 11 hich the d11b1is of a populous
city has graduall3 accumulated in its lowest le1 el,

__(;()___

the T erpoeon Valley, which natural process Was at
one time largely assisted, as has been already stated
on the authbrity of Josephus, by the premeditated
Work of man. Having realised this fact, we may
proceed to imagine that royal palaces, successors of
the palace of King David, once rose stately on
Mount Zion ; that gorgeous Temples, overlaid with
plates of gold, and Whose finish was of a splendour
such as we have never seen, sanctified Mount Mo?
riah; and that magnificent arched viaducts (the
commencement of the spring of one of which from
the old wall has lately been discovered) bridged
the valley, and connected the sacred with the royal
mount; that'beneath the viaducts and up the valley
(towards the Damascus gate) lived the cheesemong-
ers (after whom the valley is named), while the poor
Jews lived where poor Jews live’ still, on the lower
slopes of Mount Zion, and went in and out of the
cityby the Dung Gate. However little we can know
of detail after these long intervening ages, and
whatever controversies have been and are waged
among antiquarians and archaeologists on many
points, all agree as to the identity of the enclosure
called “the Haram” with the site where once stood
the great Temple of Solomon. This spot has been
ever since his time, as it was long before, consecrat-
ed to religious worship—as much by that emperor ,
who erected here a temple to the highest of the
Roman gods, and by the Moslem K-halif, Omar, who
built. the existing gem of all mosques, as by Solomon
and by Abraham before him.’ Legends» attached to

theiSacred Stone, now Covered" by the dome of the

——6‘1-—-

rock, the beautiful Mosque of Omar, show that this
has been a chosen spot for the wOrship of God,
under one or other of His numberless names, from
the earliest antiquity. (See also Gen. XXii.)

The general consensus of opinion seems to indicate
that relics of Solomon’s Temple may still be traced;
that the Second Temple, built by the J eWs on their
return from captivity, has entirely passed away;
while of the third Temple, that of Herod, much
remains.

The large enclosure of the H aram has eight gates,
on entering either of which we immediately feel
that we are on Saracen ground. The chief edifices
are the Dome of the Rock (Kubbet es-Sakhra) ,
often erroneously called “the Mosque of Omar”, and
the Mosque El-Aksa. The Dome of the Rock was
built. by the Ommiade Khalifeh Abd el Malik bin
Merwan about A.D. 697, shortly after the death of ,
Mahomet, and subsequently covered withporcelain.
by Soliman the Magnificent, more than three
hundred years ago. Within and Without its orna-
mentation is rich, harmonious, and elegant. Passages
from the Koran, beautifully inscribed in interwoven
characters, run around the building as a frieze,
while the interior is covered with ancient mosaics,
done in tiny Vitreous blocks of the richest and most
harmonious colours,and of the most graceful designs.
The gates of the Dome are four, opening north,
south, east, and west. That opening to the North
is called the Gate of Paradise. The materials for
parts of the interior have evidently been selected
and worked in from older edifices, for in the fantastic

. - 6'2 —..—-

grace of a mosaic Or the elegance of apointed arch,
in the shaft, of a column, and even in a cr'oss, we
recognise the various work of Byzantine or Saracen,
Roman and Crusader, and admire the whole as the
embodiment» of the architectural genius of many
ages. ' l 1

The Knights Templar of the Middle Ages adopt—
ed this edifice, the Dome of the Rock, on their ar- '
morial bearin gs, and carried its plan to distant parts
of Europe (whence the old polygonal churches
which still exist, especially in Italy) and its outline
may be even found in Raphael's painting called
the “Sposalizio,” in the Brera, Milan.

‘, - The Holy Book itself is 57 feet long and 43 feet ' '

, wide, rising 6% feet above the ground, and hovering,
as faithful Mahomedans asSert, without support over
a cavern, which, through a hole in the rock, has
received the blood of inummerable. sacrifices in all
ages; for here Abraham Worshipped, and offered
sacrifices and burnt offerings; and Elijah and David,
Jesus and Mahomet, have prayed here. According
to: tradition the souls of the righteous dead Come
here twice a week to pray, The Ark of the Covenant
is supposed to be buried below, on. which account
“no, Jew, would venture to cross the threshold of the
Mosque of Omar, lest he should unwittingly pro-
fane the‘Holy of Holies by his tread. On this rock
say- their traditions was written the “Shernhamepho-
rash,” the great and unspeakable name of God,
«which, say they, Jesus succeeded in reading, failing
which He could not have worked His miracles.

.When- Mahomet had prayed here, he was, say Mos-

+63“-

lems, translated to heaven on his miraculous wing;
ed steed, El-Burak, and communicated such an
upward impetus to the Holy Rock with the whirl-

'wind of his ascent, that the Archangel Michael had - ‘

to fly down and stay it with his finger (whose im- -
press is shown to this day), lest the world should
be bereft of its altar. Within one of the'four gates
Mahomet had driven into a slab of jaSper, forming
part of the pavement, nineteen golden nails, one a
of which, it is said, has fallen out at the close of
every epoch. Three and a half now remain,and
when all shall have disappeared, then, it is prophe:
asied, will come the end of El-lslam and iof the
world, and from this sacred spot will résound“the
"trumpet-blast announcing thej udgment. We» ascend
fromthis curious cavern, echoing with Saracenic
legend, to stroll admiringly among, other, Arabian
.chef‘ d’wuvres of architecture, and“ to hear other
legends as curious as these. ’

Before passing on we must remark that whilst
the Whole of the ancient Temple Enclosure is known
"to the Moslem World as “El Haram E'l Aksa’ the
extreme Sanctuary” in allusion to the well known
passage in the Koran which speaks of Mohammed’s
above mentioned night - journey from the other -
. Sanctuary at Mecca to the one which was considered,
in Moslem parlance to be the farthest from Mecca;
the visitor must be careful not to confound the name
with thatof “El Masjid el Aksa, or great Mosque
El Aksa, built in the S. and S.VV. portion of the '
great enclosure.

Before thetportal of the El-Aksa Mosque is a large

9-64-—

cirbular Fountain called “El Kas”'or “the Cup”
which was fed by a branch of the Aqueduct com-
ing from Solomon’s Pools,—-—whilst just within the
Aksa Mosque is shown a cistern called “ Bir el Wa-
raka” i. e. Well of the leaf, in memory of an ad-
venture ‘which befell a friend and companion of the
Khalif Omar. Beneath the pavement here are spacé
iousancient reservoirs, supplied with water from
Solomon’s Pools, beyond Bethlehem, by aqueducts
still existing. The friend of Omar happened to let
his pitcher fall into the cistern below, and, descend-
ing to recover it, he found a gate which opened
into an unknown garden, where he plucked a leaf
which never. faded, for it was a leaf from Paradise!
Other men have, since then gone down, in hopes to
pluck a leaf or flower from Paradise that should not
fade; but none have ever found again that garden
gate! , '

The great mosque El—Aksa is a complex archi-
tectural pile, built originally by the Emperor J ustin-
ian as a Christian basilica, and dedicated in honour
of the Blessed Virgin, and converted to Muslim
uses by the Khalif Omar. Abd-el-Melik overlaid
the doors with gold and silver A.D. 684, and more
,than‘ six hundred years ago its porch was built by

. a nephew of Saladin. Earthquakes have since dam~
aged the building Under this mosque, as under
the whole area of the Haram, we may descend into
spacious and lofty substructions, the hewing of
whose supporting columns—tall, massive, and seem-
ingly innumerable, a gigantic work—the Arabs
attribute to the agency of demons or genii, the

-—- 6355 ——
slaves of King Solomon’s seal. Here we already
see huge stones of the .oldest Jewish period, and
parts of the city wall enclosing the Haram show,
as seen from without, very massive Hebrew mason-
ry believed to be coeval with Solomon; but'it is
thought that if excavations were permitted, even
, more extensive and ancient remains would be found.

On ascending some steps near here, to get aview
from the top of the wall, we notice the protruding
section of a column built into the wall, horizontally. ,
This column can be seen also f1om outside; and to
it, acc01d1n0‘ to Mahomedan tradition, a 10pe,fine
and slender like a hair of steel wire, will be fastened
at the Last Day, st1etching over the Valley of
Jehoshaphat from the Mount of Olives. On this
Weak bridge the souls of the good from the myriad
tombs on the sides of the mount will cross over
safely to enter Paradise, while the bad will fall mid-
way into the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where the
mouth of Hell will gape wide for them.

Close by 1s a domed canopy, covering the tradi~
tional site of the throne of Solomon, whence he de-
livered his judgments, and where he was found
dead. In order to conceal his death from his slaves,
the genii, that they might finish the work he had
set them to do, when dying he prOpped himself up
on his seat with his cane; and only when the worms
had gnawed it through, and the body fell, did the
demons realise that they were at last released from
their bondage to the royal magician.

‘ Shreds of the garments of pilgrims are fastened
1‘1pon‘t-he gratings of the window.

__ 66 __
Mahomet venerated the site of Solomon 8 Temple,

and unbelievers have riot been allowed to enter the
enclosure of the Haram untll of late years.

Permission to visit the Haram must be obtained
through the Consulate of the visitor, and the fee
varies according to the number of persons in the
party. A sunny day should be chosen for all such
visits, that the dark interior of many of these interest-.
ing and beautiful places may be the better seen.

THE CHURCH or THE HOLY SEPULCHRE

Is, in fact, a cluster of churches, chapels, and shrines,
built separately at different periods, but now all
covered by one roof. Under Constantine the Great
the site of the Crucifixion of the Saviour was
diligently sought for, and it is said that on the spot
which was then fixed upon as the scene of the chief ’
events of those three fateful days, a memorial church
of Byzantine splendour was built by his mother,
St. Helena. This church had a rotunda, the plan of
whose foundations, at least, can still be traced. The
space adjacent on the east was enclosed by colon-
n‘ades, still further east of which was a basilica, with
courts 011 each side, three portals, a forecourt, and
propylaeum, fragments of the columns of which
last exist to this day. Since that time, Helena’s
splendid and pious work has been desecrated and
destroyed, rebuilt, damaged restored, and added to,
over and over again ; but still the edifice preserves
the “odour of sanctity, and 1s pervaded by an air
of great antiquity.

In A.D. 1099 the Crusaders entered the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre, barefooted and singing songs

-——67——

of praise and thankfulness; They rebuilt it on a '
large scale, enclosing in it all the adjacent shrines
and chapels. Their work still stands, and is still
readily recognisable, notwithstanding the numer»
ous subsequent additions and repairs.

The Greek Church has the largest possession in
this most ancient of cathedrals, within which each
branch of the Christian faith has its own particular
church, chapel, or shrine, in which lamps are
always but ning resplendently. A touching devotion
of religious faith may be observed in the humble
niche possessed by the few but faithful Egyptians
representing the Coptic Church, which through all
temptation and peril, refused to abandon Christ-
ianityffor the new and easier faith of the dashing
Saracen.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre should be
visited. in the sunniest hours of the day, as much of
the interior is dark and most of it magnificent,
Every shrine therein and almost every stone, has
been bathed with countless tears, and has received
the passionate kisses of hundreds of thousands of
wayworn pilgrims; and whether or not it is the exact
spot it is believed by these to be, it is certain, at
least, that it commemorates momentous events
which must have taken place thereabouts, and that
we are in a church which has been for long ages,
and still 1s, sac1ed to a 1eligious faith and hallowed
by devotion and sac1if1ce.

g— 68——

THE MURISTAN, on si‘txg OF THE PREMISES OF THE
KNIGHTS OF ST. JoHN OF THE HOSPITAL
AT JERUSALEM.

The narrow street traversing the end of the
Square of the Holy Sepulchre, passes, a little
further on, the entrance to a noble and extensive
church, now being erected on the site and in exact
restoration of the famous mediaeval Church of St.
Maria Latina.~ In the early part of the ninth century
Charlemagne had built here a monastery, which
was succeeded two centuries later by the church-
es , hospices, infirmaries, and convents built by
the Crusaders, and finally, after nearly four
centuries, by a mosque. About A.D.i 1050, wealthy
men of Amalfi, then. a port rivalling even Venice,
the Queen of the Adriatic, in its commercial
prosperity, and still one of the most picturesque
towns of Southern Italy, bargained with and paid ‘
the Lords of Syria for the privilege of erecting near
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre houses of refuge
for pilgrims visiting Jerusalem; for it was the policy
of Venice and Amalfi, which cities were commer-
cially benefited by the crowds of pilgrims to the Holy
Places, to encourage and provide accommodation
for the pilgrims. The home built by theAmalfitans
for women was dedicated to St. Mary Latina, and
that for men to St. John the Baptist, and the latter
institution was the cradle of the celebrated knightly
order of St. John of Jerusalem, which gradually
thereafter developed into a military organization,

its members taking vows of poverty, chastity, and

_. Q9 .—

obedience. Their dress was a black robe with a
white cross on the left breast.

The Crusader Kings, Godfrey and Baldwin, large-
ly endowed the Knights of St. Johfi with posses-
sions both in Palestine and in Europe, they having
founded institutions, in many European maritime
cities, in which pilgrims were fed and lodged, and -
thence forwarded to the Holy Land. The Order
ultimately subdivided into three classes—~the mili-
tary, who were all of noble descent, the priests, and
the servants; and organised themselves into branches
according to nationality, as those of France, Italy,
Aragon, Germany, and England. The knights
fought to the last in the unsuccessful defence of St.
John d’Acre, which put an end to the reign of the
Crusaders in Palestine, and thence sailed for Cyprus,
and thence for Rhodes where they built the mas-
sive fortifications which are the admiration of all
Europe, but which eventually fell. to the Turks;
after which they finally removed to Malta. where
their. fortifications, their palaces and cathedrals still
stand as monuments of magnificence, and love of art.

Five and a half centuries after the death of
Mohamet—viz., in A.D. 1187—when Saladin enter~
ed Jerusalem, he lodged in the Crusaders’ Hospice,
and afterwards gave the whole area, now called the
Muristan, as an endowment to the Great Mosque of
Omar. The chief buildings now standing were pro-
bably those erected by Raymond du Puy, A.D.
1130 —- 1140, among which are to be seen some
beautiful specimens of mediaeval architecture. One
of these buildings was doubtless used as an asylum

5

‘1

__ 7:0 ._...
‘ for the insane, for “Muristan” means “ madhouse.”»

This important site, with its complex pile of in-
teresting ruins, was given by the Sultan to the Im-
perial Crown Prince. of Germanyon the occasion of
the Visit made by the latter to the Holy Land, in

' 1869, and the ancient Church of St. Mary Latina is
being rebuilt as a place of worship for the German
& Lutherans resident in the Holy City.

a?

‘ Warsaw raga watts; ' ,

MOUNT ZION. »

Outside and close by the Zion Gate, in a well-kept
Armenian church, which with its adjoining monas-
tery, is said to be built on the site of the house of
Caiaphas, the High Priest, is shown the cell in
which Jesus is said to have passed the night before
the Crucifixion. In the same churoh is preserVed
a. stone, now used as an altar stone, on which the
astonished tourist is hidden to observe the impres-
sion of the foot of the cock which crowed when
Peter denied his Lord ! -

On the mount hard by is the site of the house in
which tradition says the Blessed Virgin dwelt during
- the later years of her life. -

Recent excavations by Mr. Mandslay in 187 3—4.
and taken in hand again by Dr- Bliss 1893~6.
under the Auspices of the Palestine Exploration
Fund, have brought to light in Bishop Gobat’s
School and the Protestant Cemetery adjoining, some
interesting relics of antiquity—for instance, aflight
of rude steps hewn in the rock, whose workmanship
indicates a very remote period, possibly the time
of the J ebusites, who inhabited Jerusalem and the
surrounding country before it was occupied by the
Children of Israel. Besides these steps, the excava-
tions have revealed some ancient reservoirs, an old
tower, and the foundations of an outer wall, perhaps
part of David’s palace, or “the wall of the Pool
of Siloah, by the king’s garden,” alluded to by
Nehemiah. . ..; . . .

 

—72—_'

‘The later excavations by Dr. Bliss outside the
cemetery have laid bare this ancient wall with its
towers and gates, and traced it as far as Siloam,
besides exposing many other points of interest,
such as the stairs that went down from the city of
David. Neh. iii. 13. ,

Beyond the Armenian church and monastery, but
close beside them, is a mosque in which the stranger
is shown the “Cmnaculum’l or traditional “large
upper room" (Luke xxii. 12, 13,) where the disciples
“ made ready the Passover,” and where they ate and
drank with their Master for the last time; and the
chamber in which the Apostles are traditionally
reported to have been assembled when they received
the miraculous gift of tongues, when, being “all
with one accord in one place, suddenly there came a
sound from heaven, as of a rushing, mighty wind,
and it filled all the house where they were sitting;
and there appeared unto them cloven tongues, like
as of fire, and it sat upon each of them, and they
were all filled with the Holy Ghost, and began to
speak with other tongues, as the Spirit gave them
utterance.” (Acts ii. 1—4.)

In a subterranean vault under this mosque are two
jealously—guarded tombs, said to be those of King
David and King Solomon, which only devout Maho-
medans are permitted to inspect closely. One of
these tombs is in all probability that of the Psal-
mist. (See Acts ii. 29, and Neh. iii. 16.)

THE T 0MBS on THE KINGS

are some of the most royal-IOOking scpulchres in all
the environs of Jerusalem, abounding as they do in

_73_.

100k- hewn tombs. They are not far from the load
leading out through the Damascus Gate. A flight of
steps cutout of the rock leads to a large, square, '
rock- hewn chamber open to the sky, from which,

through a wall of rock four and a half feet thick, a
passage leads into an open roofless (”curt rock- hewn
like the first, thirty yards long and twenty- seven
yards wide. On the western end Of this spacious
court is a richly hewn and sculptured porta,l whose
lintel was formerly upheld by two columns, which
must have agreeably relieved the broad shadow of
the opening. The inner door, which opens from
this vestibule, was closed in old times by a “rolling
stone,” which still stands on its rounded side in a
broad groove to the left of the door, a short angue,
lar subterranean passage giving access to ,the other '
side of the stone when it was to be rolled into place
before the door. It is too heavy to be moved by
one man, but is easily rocked to and fro, and is an
interesting example of the old method of closing
the entrance to a tomb—still practised in the
time of Christ, as we know by the history of His
entombment. This door leads into an extensive
and curious series of sepulchral chambers, the wall
of each'being excavated on all sides into niches and
shelves for the reception of sarcophagi, which last
have in every case disappeared utterly, leaving no
trace of insc1iption which might have helped to a

certain knowledge of the history of these tombs and
of their former occupants. This catacomb 1s called
by the Jews the sepulchre of Kalba Shevua who is
said by them to have been a wealthy Jew Who in

i *74__

ancient times assisted'his co-religionists during a
, reat famine; but it is conjectured by archaeolo-
gists that it was the tomb of Queen Helena of Adia-
bene, in Armenia, and of her son» Izates, both con-
verts to Judaism, who visited and passed some time
in Jerusalem, the body of the Queen, after the death
of 4 her husband, Monobazus A.D, 48, having been
brought to the Holy City for interment. For a full
account of Helena and her family ‘&c. we must
refer the reader to J osephus—( Antiquities XXV. 3.
and Jewish Wars. V. ii. 2. and iv. 2.) ’Izates her
son had, it is said, twenty—four sons, who may have
taken their places beside their father and grand-
mother in these now empty niches, when their time.
came. At the foot of the steps in the outer court,
and halfway down on the right-hand side in the
wall of rock, huge reservoirs are excavated, into
which the surface water is conducted by obliquely-
heWn channels.

A Just before reaching the Tombs of the Kings, and
in close proximity, one notices on the right hand
the Anglican College and Cathedral Buildings now
being erected by Bishop Blyth.

A quarter of an hour further on, near the road
to Mizpeh, is another extensive, curious, and inter-
esting catacomb, called the 4

TOMBS or THE JUDGES

From a Jewish tradition that in it the members
of the Sanhedrim were laid to rest.

All the hillsides around Jerusalem abound in
Caverns, either natural or excavated, which have
served at. different periods of their history as sepul-

-- H) ——

chres for the dead, as homes fer hermits, or as re-
fuges for the frightened inhabitants in periods of
danger. .

* Beyond the Tombs of the Kings the road descends
into the Upper Valley of the Kedron (called by the
Arabs the Wady el-Jos, or Nut Valley), through
which the great caravan route leads to Shechem
(Nablous), the capital of Samaria.

On our return, opposite to the Damascus Gate,
we observe a gently-rounded hill, the contours of
which, as laid down on the map, resemble a human
skull. In its precipitous and weather-Worn southern
side are cavities which the imagination of some has
found to resemble those of the empty eye-sockets
&c. of a human skull. These'indications, together a
with the topographical position of the knoll, sug-
gested to Otto Thenius in 1848. the idea, which
was taken up with the greatest enthusiasm by
the late General Gordon in 1882, and by others
since then, that this eminence, which is said by
the Jews to be the site of the “ Beit, Ha Sekelah”
or Place of Execution by Stoning, mentioned in‘the
Mishna, was the real site of the Crucifixion, rather
than that shown in the Church of the Sepulchre,
and this idea has been eagerly welcomed by many

who had found difficulties in accepting the hitherto »

” generally-received site. Was, then, this round and
hollow hill, “shaped like a skull,” the true Golgo-
tha, and not the other ? Was it here that the three
crosses stood, conspicuous to all within and without
the city against the black sky? If so, perhaps the
sepulchre whose now open month we see not far to

“

___-.76 .4.

the "west of'thehill is} that which belonged to J o-
”Seph of Arimathea, Wherein tillgthat._d.ay “never
man was laid,” and whither the women came early
on the third day, wondering who should roll away
the-heavy stone which closed its entrance, When an
angel in bright raiinent appeared unto them, and
said, “_ Our Lord isvnot here; He isrisen”? __ ,
In .the cavern in the .hillside,.called the Grotto of
Jeremiah, that prophet is; supposed to have written

this Book of Lamentations-

The interesting» ruins of the ancient basilica and
monastery marking the. traditional tomb. of St.
zStéphien-lie immediately behindjand north-west of
ét’hi‘s “Green ”hill,” and ought to be Visited; Theftplace

“is’i‘ithe-pIZOperty of the Dominicans; and contains

much that cannot fail to interest'the Visitor;

1" EXactIYOPPositeito the Grotto, one bandied paces

W‘east‘j of the Damascus Gate, there is an'entranCe

i{ughrad-ugh'the foundation of the City‘wall to h
T HE COTToN CAVERNS ”on. SOLOMON’S \QUARRIES,

TT’hisis a lofty and curious quarry of the remotest
"antiquity, in which the workmen, dead perhaps

thirty centuries ago, left some of their work un-

’-finished, exhibiting to this later age their method
iof operation, and showing how the original Jeru-

salemvwas built. The rock roof issustained by: huge"
pillars.” The quarry, extends under a large part of

'the existing city, and is most interestingglbut it

should only be Visitedin’ cOInpany with an experi-
ienced and careful guide, With whom the stranger

need run no risk either of pitching headlong into

dark destruction, or of losing the way out into the
light. Courageous and rash VisitOrs have,.however,
been known to go in alone,‘ and yet come out safely.
The name “Cotton Caverns” is applied to this
excavation by the Arabian writer Mujir—ed-Din.
The Jews call it “ 'Zedekiah’s Cave” from a tradition ,
that through it that unfortunate king endeavoured
to escape from the Chaldeans besiegin g Jerusalem. '

THE RUSSIAN QUADRANGLE.

The Russian Government has done more for
modern Jerusalem than any other Government in
the world, one of the handsomest parts of the city,
outside the walls, being the collection of buildings
called the RussianQuadrangle,built on an airy eleva-
tion distant a few hundred yards from theYafa Gate,
and enclosed within high walls, entered by three
great gates and two smaller doors. Here probably
stood many beautiful suburban Roman villas in the
days of King Agrippa and of Herod the Great, some
large columns, one of which, a huge monolith, still
lies exposed to View and unfinished on the rocky
bed out of which it was being quarried, a few yards
‘ from the en trance to the cathedral,and other in terest-
ing antiquities having been uncovered in course of
digging the foundations of these Russian structures.
Within the walls of this enclosure arembesides the
Russian Consulate, with its lovely garden, which
in early spring is purple with most fragrant Violets
——a rich cathedral, where good singing is to be
heard; a fine hospital and dispensary; large hospices, .
where three thousand pilgrims can be lodged at one
time gratuitously, besides many gentle and noble

~78—

pilgrims, who payfor their board and lodgings,
and for Whom handsome accommodation is provid-
ed in one of the hospices specially set apart for
them ; also several schools, one being for Arab child-
ren; and a kitchen, Where poor pilgrims may buy
food at cost price. '

Leaving the Russian Quadrangle by the great
gate on the Yafa Road passing the recently laid out
Public Garden, crossing the road, and entering a
Moslem cemetery, the tourist Will find a pool,
Which is the traditional

UPPER POOL or (31110}:

(mentioned in 1 Kings i. 33—45), the work of
‘ Hezekiah. (Chron. XXXiii. 14.)

amnasaons moat aaansaaawa
Returning the same day, ‘ i _
To THE MOUNT “or OLIVES AND BETHANY.

 

Going either out through the St. Stephen’s Gate
or round the walls till that gate is reached, the
traveller crosses a Moslem cemetery to the spot
where St. Stephen was stoned, then, descending a
steep path, he crosses the Brook Kedron (J er. XXXi.
40; 2 Chron. XV. 16; XXiX. 16; XXX.'13, 14) and
the upper part of the Valley of J ehoshaphat, passing
the tomb of the Blessed Virgin to the left, and, a
little higher. up, to the right, the Garden of Gethse-
mane, and up the Mount of Olives by a steep and
ancient path. The part of the mount above and to
the left of the Garden of Gethsemane is or was called
Olivet. (2 Sam. XV. 10—37; Luke XXiv. 50, 51,)

The Mount of Olives forms the eastern horizon
of Jerusalem, wherever the View is unobstructed,
and is called by the Arabs (J abel et-Tur). Its steep
paths and olive groves were favourite resorts of
Jesus, the way over the mount being the shortest
road to Bethany, whither He often went to visit
Martha, and Mary, the sisters of his friend, Lazarus.
The Prophet Zechariah (Xiv. 4) foretold, and the
,Apostles related (Matt. XXVi. 26—30; Mark Xiv.
22—26; John viii. 1.), how our Lord should and
did walk under the olive groves that once per-
haps covered the hillside. The paths are plain, and
afford the finest views of Jerusalem and of the sur-

rounding'country, both from a picturesqueand an
historical point of View. This mount, therefore, in:
vites the traveller to more than one Visit, and it
should certainly be ascended early in the trip to
Jerusalem, before the stranger plunges ignorantly
and unprofitably into the confusing streets of the
city. It would be well, too, that the ascent should
be made as early in the day as possible; for the
moming view is as a map under the stranger’ s eye,

showing cleaily all the special points and districts

. the shape and lie of the city, and the relative posi-
tions and importance of its surroundings.

The Mount of Olives is practically one with
Mount Scopus on the north, to which an easy and
direct path runs along the crest of the hill, there
being but a slight depression in the saddle-shaped
connecting ridge between the two. The View from
the old mosque tower on the summit or from the
lofty Russian Campanile further east is a circular
panorama of the most wonderful and variedbeauty.
Beyond the nearhills to the east is seen the broad
valley 'of the Jordan, the river itself lying hid under
its skirting woods of balsam and tamarisk; the
grand scene being bounded on this side by the
Mountains of Moab, which, changing colou1 with
eve1 y passing cloud, now melt into the blue distance,
and then define themselves delicately in wondrous
misty mauves and greys while at other times they
present a dazzling show of pink and purple and
cor ulean blue. At their foot gleams hele and them,
between the 1nte1ven1n0 mountain t0ps, the cleai‘
blue water of the famous salt lake called the Dead

_8’1__

Sea To the south, towards Bethlehem, the bold,
truncated Cave of the traditional Frank Mountain,
also called the Herodium Where Herod the Great
built a city, and where he Was buried strikes the
eye; and to the south- west the lower 1ange Of hills
across which lies Hebron. To the west We see the hills
of the _, tlderness of J udea, in the midst of which
lies Aini arim, the traditional birthplace of St. John
the Baptist and the place where was heard “the
voice of one crying in the Wilderness.” ' To the
north-west rises the mosque-crowned height called
N eby Samwyl, or Mizpeh, amid the Mountains of
GibeOn “1n the portion of Benjamin.”

Beyond and Some distance east of the mosque,
fiom Wilese tower the glorious View just deseribed
1s to be Obtained, the Visitor will find a noticeable
group of Russian buildings, Viz., a church and
priest’s house, two hospices, and a bell t0wer‘ of'
extraordinary height. Dming the construction of
"these werks s0111e interesting Roman remains were
discoVeied including beautiful mosaic pavements
whose designs of fish, fowl and f1 uit are exceeding-
'ly interesting specimens of ancient a1t. These an-
tiquities are readily shown to Visito1s. ' ~

Between the group of buildings 111stdesc11bed
on the summit of the Mount of OliVes, and the
Village of Bethany, some fine ancient 111in's‘u-n-
cove1ed by recent eXCaV ations may be seen. They
mark the site of the medieeval Chuich on the sup-
posed site of Bethphage, in which during the Dark
Ages, the very stone from Which Our Saviour
mounted the ass (Math. XX., Mail; Xi., Luke XiX.

#82...

29.). was shown. This stone was discovered during
the excavations—The place belongs to the Latins.
On arriving at the village, the traveller should
'enter the so-"called tomb of Lazarus, an interesting
chapel tomb hollowed in the rock, into which he
will descend by a slightly curved flight of steps.
Near the tomb is the traditional house ofeMartha
and Mary, in which the latter, having “ chesen the
better part,” sat “at the feet of Jesus while Martha,
was “careful and troubled about many things.”
From Bethany the traveller may return to Jerusa—
lem round the Mount of Olives by the mountains
to Jericho; the road supposed by Dean Stanley to '
to be that by which. Jesus came “sitting .upon an
ass, and a colt, the foal of an ass ;_” and “a very
great multitude spread their garments in the way,
others out down branches from the trees and strawed
”them inthe way. And the multitude that went be-
fore and that followed cried, saying, Hesanna to the
.Son of David; Blessed is He that cometh in the
name of the Lord; Hosanna in the highest!” (Matt.
and. 7—9; Mark K. 7—10.) .

On the occasion of a second visit, if early in the
morning he should enter the traditional Tomb of the
Blessed Virgin before commencing the ascent, he
may find a group of pious pilgrims, picturesque in
their, travel-stained peasant garments— Russians,
Armenians, or Copts perhaps—worshipping, with
simple joy and reverence in expression and bearing. ,
:T he Tombs of the Virgin’s father and mother, J o-
achim and Anna, and other shrines would be pointed
out by the local guide.

_ 83‘ _

The Garden of Gethsemane may also'be visited;
an interesting spot, though now enclosed in high,
ugly walls, and kept in a formal manner. 'From
above this the traveller may take a path to the
right leading past a large Russian church, newly
built in Tartaric style with pointed cupolas and
called “the Magdalene” in honour of the mother
got the Russian Grand Duke Sergius who 'was prer’
sent- at its consecration in 1888. It is well worthy of
inspection, and up the mount lead ways which give,
perhaps, the best near views obtainable of the city
of Jerusalem. Descending by the most southerly
path, he may diverge to enter a labyrinth of
ancient Jewish tombs—the Tombs of the Prophets
———where he will find three subterranean passages of ‘
from thirteen'to nineteen yards long, intersected by
a semi-circular passage fifteen yards long, in such a
' manner as to form rocky columns, some of which
are thirty -t.hree yards in circumference. Shaft
toinbs run out of these passages, and other passages
lead no one knows where, as they have not yet been
explored, the ways being uneven and partially filled
up by the accumulated debris of centuries. This
' catacomb is situated in an enclosed field belonging
to the Russians. Other sepulchral chambersare
found on the upper part of Ulivet, while the simple
stone slabs which cover the graves of'the modern
Children of Israel, streak with little white lines, in
the middle distance, the whole slope of the Mount of
Olives down to the great monument called by
tradition ‘

THE PILLAR OF ABSALOM,

~84—

And along the bank of the Kedron to the village
of Siloah. (I e1 XXXi. 40. ) Thc Pillar of Absalom,
which he“ rea1 ed up for himself 1n his lifetime " (2
Sa111.xxiii.l8), 1s one of three conspicuous monu-
ments cut out of the lock of the mount, whe1e it
forms a perpendicular cliff near the bed of the Ked-
1011, in the Valley of Jehoshaphat This monument
is based on a cube, twenty feet high, hewn out of
the rock, having a hewn passage eight or nine feet
wide dividing it from the surrounding cliff, of
which it forms part. A square superstructure of
large stones rests upon this solid foundation, and
above that is a low circular tower, capped with a
I‘curiously shaped spire which curves to a blunt end,
“instead of tapering to a point in right lines; the
whole height of the monument being fOIty-seven
feet. In memory of Absaloms disobedience to his
father David it is customary with the Jews to pelt
his monument with stones as they pass by.

The second of the group of monuments is

_ . THE TOMB OF JEHOSHAPHAT,
' Situated immediately behind and NE. of the Pillar

of Absalom but now hidden from View by a recent- ‘

ly built dry wall.

In the western face of the cliffs further south we
notice the traditional
TOMB OF JAMES.

IWhich has a broad vestibule whose lintel is sup-
pOrted by columns. The principal chamber within
the vestibule has served as a Christian chapel, and
at an earlier period the inner caverns Were used by

._...85..._

the proscribed J eWs as hiding-places, and as places
for secret prayer. The lower slopes of Olivet have
many such caves, as yet unexplored, containing
matter doubtless for many unwritten chapters of
histOry and of archaeological lore. An old Hebrew
inscription shows that the. tomb ‘of St. James was
originally that of the priestly familyof Hezir.
THE PYRAMID OF ZACHARIAS

Is the third and last of this interesting group of
monuments, and consists of a solid block of stone,
sixteen feet wide and deep, by twenty-nine feet high,
hewn out of the cliff, having a broad passage all
round it. The faces of this block are adorned with
lonic columns and half-columns, and its corners with
square pillars, all cut in the rock and undetached
from it; the whole being surmounted by a blunt
pyramid. When Jews, — descendants of those
inhabitants of Jerusalem who, having “escaped
from the sword,” were carried; away captive
by King Nebuchadnezzar—here spread out their
hands, and pray, in low, sad voices, on each of the
four sides of this ancient monument, to the prophet‘
Who prophesied such good things for the Children of
Israel "in that day when” the Lord shall be king
OVcr all the earth, when there shall be f‘ one Lord
and His name One” (Zech, Xiv. 9), no Christian
who has a soul for the poetry of pathos can forget. or ‘
remain unmoved by the scene.
THE MOUNT OF SCANDAL,
Also called the Mount of Offence, rises to the right

of the Mount of Olives from the Valley of J ehosha-
phat, where lies the now dry bed of the Brook

1—86—

Kedron On this hill once stood the gorgeous and
extensive palaces built by King Solomon for his
immense harem, consisting, as We are told (1 Kings
Xi. 3) it did, of “seven hundred wives—princesses,
and three hundred ooncubines.” Many of these
were women of the surrounding heathen nations,
“Moabites, Ammonites, Edomites, Zidonians, and
Hittites, ” and one was the daughter of Pharaoh,
King of Egypt, and (verses 4—7 ) “it came to pass
that when Solomon was old his wives turned away
his heart after other gods, “and Solomon went
“after Ashtoreth, the goddess of the Zidonians, and
after Milcom” (or Moloch), “the abomination of the
Ammonites,’ and built “an high place for Chemosh,
the abomination of Moab, in the hill that 1s before
Jerusalem, and for Moloch.” (See. also 2 Kings
XXiii. 13.) Here, as well as on “the Hill of Evil
Counsel,” and in the Valley of the Son of Hinnom,
the Children of Israel and Judah, following the
example of many of their kings, “did evil in the
sight of the I 01d and served DBaalim” (Judges 1i.
11 “and Ashtaroth” (1 Sam. Xii. 10, and2 Kings
XVii. 10—17), building “high places” and planting
“ groves” in honour of the strange gods, where were
offered up to them countless burnt-offerings and
even human sacrifices. (Jer. Xix 5, and 2 Chron.
1XXXlii. 6.) These groves and high places were des-
troyed by King Hezekiah (2 Kings XViii. 4), and by

Asa (2 Chron. xiv. 3), and other kings of Judah,

but they were as often rebuilt and replanted by their
successors. Hence the name by which the hill is
“called to, this day.

-—87——

Opposite to the Mount of Scandal rises the hill

called
OPHEL,

Mentioned by Nehemiah (chap. iii 26, also in 2
Chlon. xxvii 3) asa “wall,” or tower on which'
King J otham built much, and which was inhabited
by a people called “the Nethinims, whom David
and the princes had appointed for the selvice of the
Levites.’ (Ema viii. 20.) It is adjacent to and
south of Solomon s Temple, lising abruptly between
the bed of the Kedron and the Tyropoeon Valley,
which last being filled up, the1e lemains no valley '
between Mounts Mmiah aud Ophel, though for-
merly, according to Josephus, there must have been
a shee1 descent ohere beneath the Temple wall.

The remains of the wall and towers on Ophelg
we1e discovered thi1ty yeais. ago by Captain (now
Gene1 al) Sir Charles Warien during his excavations
for the Palestine Exploration Fund. 011 the side
of the hill opposite Siloam he came upon a vaulted
subterranean chamber, which is connected by rock-r
hewn passages, staircases and a shaft with the rockcut
aqueduct underground, hewn roughly and crooked-
ly through the rock, 586 yards long, and leading
to the Fountain of the Virgin and the Lower Pool
of Siloah. It was near the end of this aqueduct next
the upper and smallerPool of Siloam that the fa-
mous Siloam inscription in ancient Hebrew charac-
ters of the time of King Hezekiah, “and resembling
those" of the Moabite Stone, was found.

. — 88 ~—
On the slope of the Mount 0f Scandal, facing
Ophel, is a small village called

SILOAM SILOAH, or SILWAN,

Inhabited by'Arabs, many of whose dwellings are
natural caves, which for many centuries served as
storehouses for plunder and provender, as stables or
dwelling-houses, as chapels for prayer or as tombs;
but which, for the last two centuries, have been con-
verted to their present use, forming a considerable
part of the existing Arabian village.

Within five minutes’ walk of this cavernous
hamlet is

THE FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN,
. or ST. MARY’S WELL.

~ This fountain has at various times gone by other

names, but acquired its present traditional name
after the death of Mary, the mother of Jesus, who,
being accused of unchastity, drank of its waters,
which had from time immemorial been used as a test
ofleminine innocence or guilt, and-thus established
her innocence. Up to that time it had been called
the Fountain of Accused Women, of which. the
innocent drank unharmed, but which was death
to the guilty. Mary is said also to have washed
her Babe’s clothing in these waters when in Jeru-
salem, and since then it has become a favouritebath
With the women of the neighbourhood.

It is supposed by some authorities to be identic 11
with the Lower Pool of Gihon, formed by King
Hezekiah (2 Ch1on xxxii. 30), and to have given
a name to the adjacent (rate of the city wall (Neh.

_.._89_

ii. 14, andiii. 15), as “ theGate ofthe Fountain," or
the “Water Gate.” The spring is within a cave 25
feet deep, whence it flows twice daily in the sum-
mer, once daily in the autumn, and from three to
five times a day in the winter. The learned Dr.
Robinson, an American. explorer, gives the follow-
ing description of this phenomenon. —“As we were
preparing to measure the basin of the fountain, my
friend, who was standing with one foot on the
lowest step and the other on a loose stone in the
water, perceived suddenly that the water was en-
tering his shoe, and, supposing that the stone had
slipped, he withdrew his foot to the step, which,
however, was also covered with water. In less than
five minutes the water rose with much bubblin01 and
commotion about a foot, and we could hear it
gurgling off through an interior passage. In ten
minutes more the flow had ceased, and the water
soon resumed its ordinary level in the basin. Mean-
while a woman of Silwan came to wash, according
to her daily habit, and She told us that she had
seen the fountain dry, and the people and flocks
dependent upon it, suffering from thirst, when all
at once the water would begin to bubble up from
under the steps, and would flow off in a copious
stream.’ .
The populare explanation of this phenomenon IS
the tradition that a dragon dwells 1n the unexplored
cavern, to 11 hich a passage, visible inside the outer
cave, is supposed to lead This dragon, say the
Arabs, manages to secure a monopoly 0of the water
for his own consumption while he wakes; but when

,he sleeps, as luckily even dragons must at times, the
spring flOws on again.

This-tradition must be very ancient, for the Pro-
phet Nehemiah (chap. ii. 13) mentions “the Dragon
, Well” in connection with “ theDung Port, ” which
is still almost directly above the fountain. A more
scientific explanation of the intermittent flow is
offered in the possibly syphon-like formation of the
channels through which the spring is fed. The water
’ has a peculiar taste, ‘which varies according to the
season, being more brackish and unpleasant towards '
. the end of the summer, which fact is easily account-

, ed for by natural causes, though upon it the super- '
stitious Arabs have founded legends of miraculous '
killings and curings.

The upper and smaller Pool of Siloam (John ix. ‘
7'; Neh. iii. 15).whither Jesus sent the “ man which
was blind from his birth” to wash, after He had
anointed his eyes with clay, lay at the outlet of the
Tyropoeon Valley near the Fountain of the Virgin,
and may have been subject to the same phenomenon
of the intermittent flow described above.

From this point apath ascends towards the wall,
and then divides, leading on the right to the Dung
Gate, and thence, to the south-east angle of the
Haram, and on the left, to the Gate of Zion.

THE LOWER POOL OF SILOAM

Lies inside the remains of an ancient wall of Je-
rusalem, probably one of the walls alluded to (in

‘lsaiah xxii. 11) as having'been built “ for the water
of the old pool,” which is referred to by Nehemiah

(chap. iii. 16) in connection with “the place over
against the sepulchres of David.” The basin of “this
old pool is now overgrown with trees; and in the
valley a little south of the pool the visitor will ob-
serve an old tree, surrounded and propped up with
stones, which is supposed to mark the spot where
the Prophet Isaiah is said to have been sawn
asunder in presence of King Manasseh.

, A few yards from this tree the remains of the
ancient “Fountain Gate” of Nehemiah have recent-
ly been discovered by Dr. Bliss, and also the stairs
to the City-of David. .

At the meeting of the Valleys of Hinnom and
J eho‘shaphat is ,
' JOB’S WELL,
also called The Well of Nehemiah and'En—Rogel.

(See Josh. xv. 7, and xviii. 16.) This well has eX-
cellent water, and being one hundred and twenty-
three feet deep, it seldom dries up; indeed, after
the rainy season it sometimes overflows, and, filling
the dry bed of the Kedron below it, runs merrily
for a few days or even weeks, according to the
amount of rain which may have fallen. On these
rare and happy occasions, the inhabitants of J eru-
salem turn out in great numbers, and camp in the
valley beside the streams, where they rejoice over
the unusual abundance of water with feasting and
merriment. The scene is a very pretty and curious
one. From this point,‘ Mount Zion rises steeply
to the north-west, faced, across the Valley of

Hinnom, by the Hill of Evil Counsel. On the west-

992....

‘ ern side of ’ the Hill of‘ Offence, just overhanging
Job's well, are a row of Small stone cottages, inhab-
ited by a number of Yemenite or Arabian Jews,
_ who lately settled in Palestine. ‘On the same side
of the valley, but on a terrace IOWer down, is a long
flat roofed one‘storied building. the wretched abode
of'the ‘lepers of Jerusalem and the'adjacent villages.
A:littl‘e farther down the Valley of J ehoshaphat is
another Arab village, called Beith'Sahur-el-Atika,
where, as in Siloah, the natural caves, found in such '
numbers in this neighbourhood, areutilised as dwell-
ings. The whole hillside above-Beit Sahuris honey-
combed with caves and rockhewn chambers, some
being semi-circular, and others containing niches
and shelf-tombs, while some are arched and provid~
ed with doors. Still farther on there are large and
deeper caverns, one of which has a vestibule with
carved pertal, and chamber with passages leading
out of it into several inner vaults; others are rougher,
and have their entrances blocked with stones to
keep out cattle. . _

THE VALLEY OF HINNOM,
(Called also ‘Tophet and Gehenna),

Runs up towards the great road to Bethlehem,
between Mount Zion and the Hill of Evil Counsel.
This valley is traditionally infamous for the cruel
human sacrifices which were offered to Baalim and
Moloch under the shadow of its groves in the times
of several of the kings. (See '2 Chron. XXViii. 1—3,
and XXX. 1—6, etc.) Because of these abominations.
Jeremiah (chapr-vii. 8.1, 32, and XiX. 2—6) says

“93—- r

that “ this place shall no more be called'Tophet, 'nor
The Valleyaot‘ the Son of Hinnom, but The Valley
of Slaughter §” and the Arabs, believe it to be ac-
cursed, and thus explain the chronic ‘absehce of
water in the valley. They call it \Vady- (valley) Er-e
Rababy—whieh means Valley of the fiddle. ”
‘West of the: valley rises ,_ ' -'
THE MOUNT OF EVIL‘ COUNSEL,’ .

'80 called from ancient days, perhaps from, the time
of Jeremiah, who says of it (chap. 'xix, 7)_,..ill.l5h€
name of the Lord, “ And I, will makevoid the coune
sel of Judah and Jerusalem in this place}? It is
also called the Hill of the Field oszlood, “or Acct];
dama, from the field said to have beeniboughtiwith
. the thirty pieces of silver paid to Judas for betray-E
ing his Master. Here also, tradition says, Judas hangé
ed himself from a tree,*which is still pointed out
to travellers. The steepside Of this hill, sloping to .
the Valley of Hinnom, was at an early period a very
extensive necropolis,‘-Whence it was also called the
Hill of Tombs. The tombs were excavated in two
ledges of the rock, one above the other, Some of the
low entrances to these tombs had stone .doors, and
from the early Christian period wereoccupied as her-
mitages by devout men. Some of the chambers are
richly sculptured, and some adorned with the carved
monogram of Jesus Christ, with crosses and other
devices; while.others have inscriptions and pictures
in fresco, and some still contain bones. The Apostles
are supposed,to have concealed themselves in one
of these cavernswhen their Master was imprison-
ed in the house of Caiaphas, the High Priest,

.6

8

’ . . -—— 94 —- ‘ ‘
which. StOOd opposite, on the Mount of Zion.
orig 0f the, tombs, called by the Mahomedans El~'
F‘erdus -(Paradise),has an antechambei‘»_or; vestibule
ten yards long, and six and a half: yards deep,
from, which} access is bbtained to a series of lofty
vaults whose roofs are sustained by massive cente
' r‘al pillars. Thisyplace is held in. much venera-
tion by Christians, and pilgrims arestill sometimes
buried here. Near it, is the “Cave of the Giant .
St. Onophrius ;” and on the entrance to another is
inscribed “The Tomb of Tecla the German.”
From the Hill of Tombs, a road leads across the
\ialley of‘ Hinnom tothe Gate of Zion; but, before
descending the hill, the traveller would do well to
mount to the summit, whence a good View of the
towuis to be had, which should not be missed.

Following the course of the Kedron downwards
from Job’s Well, the celebrated Greek monastery of

MAR SABA

May. be reached 'in a ride of tWO hours and a half,
per-mission .to inspect the convent having been first
obtained from the Patriarch of the Greek Church in
Jerusalem. To men, this permit is given gratis, but
to women, not at all. Ladies are therefore obliged
to be content with an [outside View of this . curious
oldsworld fastness, where, while. the gentlemen are
freely lodged within, the ladies are suffered to camp
without, or to take shelterfor the night in . an old
uninhabited tower, which once belonged to the
monastery. The way is easy, though rough, the
Kedron serving as guide; and en route we shall
probably pass some Ta’amireh Bedouin encamp-

i

_._9f'__

ments. Just where a deep lavine cuts the valley of

the Kedron, the Monastery of Mar (Saint) Saba,

perched on the cliff between the two valleys, looks

down a precipice of nearly Six, hundred feet, on

each, side, into the dry torrent bed below, which is.
about on a level with the Mediterranean Sea. lr-

regular masses of _ walls, towers, cells, and chapels,

are built on terraces of rock, in such a manner as to

be almost indistinguishable from it; or, hanging to“
the sides of the precipice, a1e supported there by
huge flying buttresses. In the interior construction
of the convent, every advantage has been taken oF
natural caverns, as well as of rude chambers hewn
in the rock in bygone ages, probably long before the
Christian era. Flights of rock— hewn stairs, and long,-
narrow galleiies, form a labylinth which only the
inmates can thread; and connect the whole, from
thebeds of the torrents beneath, up. to the topmost
terrace. St. Saba, about fourteen hundred years ago,
retreated to this Wild and solitary spot; and it is
related of him, that, finding a lion 1n his hermitage
one day he mildly but firmly turned him out, and
placidly fell asleep in his lair. He 1s also said to
have p anted here a date palm, which to this day
bears fruit that have no stones, as a testimony to
his miraculous power over N atu1e After founding
the monastery, he died here, in the odour of sancti-
ty, at the age of ninety-four years, AD. 532.

l‘his ancient monastely is quite the most pictur-
esque. and one of the r‘ichest and la1 gest in Palestine;
a da110'e1ous leputation 101 a place to have 1n the
midst t)of a population of p1edatory Bedouins; and

__ 95 __
accordingly it has snffered heavily and frequently.

The mo‘nks were overcome and slain by the Persians,
under Chosroes more than one thousand two hun-
dred years ago, and 1n memory of that occasion, the
'earlieSt on record; the skulls of the forty-four mar-
ty red monks stilladm 11 one of the silent caverns that
formed their home in life. The monastery was plun-
dered again and again in the eighth and ninth cen-'
turies, and twice moreearly 1n the present century,
since which time—thanks to its st1ong walls, to the
natural strength of its position, and to the untir—
i’ng- Vigilance of its monks, stimulated by painful
experience, who never permit either Bedouin or
woman (l), to pass through the small iron door in
the wall, which alone gives access to the interior——
it has. escaped further violatio‘n.

Sixty-fiVe monks now inhabit this desolate seclu-
sion, living under a very rigorous discipline, eating
chiefly vegetables and fruit, eschewing meat, and
fasting frequently. Flocks of yellow-winged black-
birds settle on the convent walls and toWers, and
descend fearlessly into its open courts to feed from
the hands of the gentle monks who 1n their loneli-
ness, welcome the friendship of the wild birds, as
other prisoners have been known to cherish a spider,
a. mouse, 011 a flower.

Perhaps the most interesting thing however, in
the monastery is the cell and tomb of the saintly
John of Damascus. lhe famous convent library
has now been incorporated with that of the Convent
of the Cross and that of the Holy Sepulchle 1n one

collection 111 the great Greek Com ent at J e1 usalem.

‘ EEEU‘SEEEM ‘EE EEEEEEEEM. .

This trip may easily be done in an afternoon, the
ride or drive to Bethlehem taking one hour and
twenty to thirty minutes. The road, running down
from the Jafi'a Gate, crosses the Upper Valley of
Hinnom below the long range of almshouses built
for poor Jews by the late Sir Moses Montefiore,
of England, leaving the Hill of Evil Counsel to the
left, and the Railway station close to the pretty red-
roofed, clean-looking Village built and inhabited by
the German Templars’ community to the right.
Then, the road passes by the Valley of Rephaim
on the right, Where David fought twice with the
Philistines, and conquered them, the signal for the
battle being given the second time by “the sound
of a going in the tops of the mulberry trees,” Which
Should betoken the presence of the LOrd (2 Sam.
v. 18—425); the Valley of Giants on theleft (Josh.
Xviii. 16)”; and the Well in which, when quenching
their thirst, the wise men from the East beheld
once more reflected in itswaters, to “ their exceed-
ing great joy,” the star, which had led them to Je-
rusalem in searCh of the newly-born Kingof the
Jews, that they might worship Him. (Matt. ii. 1——~,
12.) Next we see on the left the Convent of Mar
Elias (St. Elijah), thunded at an indefinitely early
date by a certain Archbishop Elias, and now
occupied by a brotherhood belonging to the Ortho-
dox Creek Church. This convent was destroyed by
the Saracens and rebuilt seven hundred years agoby

 

——98-——

the Crusaders; and only from its roof, terraces, and
from the hill above it, can be seen, at the same time,
both-the city of the Great King and the city of David.
To the north lies Jerusalem, with Neby Samwil and
the Mount of Olives surmounted by the Russian
bell-tower beyond; to the north—east and east are
the mountains of Moab and the Dead Sea, glimpses
of whose bright waters we can get between the near-
er mountains; while to the south is Bethlehem,
built high on a semi-circular ridge, round a fertile,
many-terraced valley; and the old town of Giloh,
now Beit-Jalah Where dwelt “Ahithophel the Gil'on-
ite, David‘s counsellor.” (2 Sam. xv. 12.) This
is now a village inhabited exclusively by Christians.
As we near Bethlehem we pass, on a high ground
to the rightof the road, the Austrian HoSpital
called Tantur, recently established for the destitute
Sick of all nationalities and religious. This hospital
Was built and is worked and supported by the R0-
man Catholic knights of the Hospital of St. John,
under the patronage of the Emperor Francis Joseph
of Austria. N ear this also is the field called

. ’ THE FIELD OF PEAS, ,
By reason of the legend that Jesus, passing by, to
or from Bethlehem no doubt, saw a man here scat-
tering seed, and asked him what he was sowing.
The man answered, and said, “Stones”; and from
that day forth, whatever seed might be sown there,
this field produced only stone. Similar “peas” may
be piCked up all over the, country amongst the
nummulitic limestone.

,— 99 —
RACHEL’S TOMB

Will be observed, by the traveller, to the right, near
the place Where the road to Bethlehem branches off
from the great high road which leads to Hebron.
The identity of this tomb has not been disputed
(Gen. XXX. 16—20); for throughout the whole of
the Christian period, and for many generations be-
fore its commencement, the same tradition has been
connected with the spot, which for many hundreds
of years was marked by a. pyramid of twelve 'stones,
for the twelve tribes of Israel, the present monu- '
ment being Muslim ; for the place is respected almOst ,

equally by Jews, Christians, and Mohammed’ans.

The next point of interest is
DAVID’S WELL,

Which is to the left of the road as it enters the town
of Bethlehem., It. iscalled David’s Well, in com-
memoration of the incident recorded in 2 SMILXXlil.
14—17, when, the Philistines being in possession
of the town, and David“ in a hold” in or near the
Cave of Adullam, “ he longed, and said, Oh that one
would give me drink of the water of the well of
Bethlehem, which is by the gate l—and three mighty
men brake through the host of the Philistines, and
drew water , out- of the well of Bethlehem, that
was by the gate, and took it, and brought it to
David; nevertheless, he would not drink thereof,
but poured it out unto the Lord”; for he said, “is
not this the blood of the men that went in jeopardy,
o f their lives ? ” I .
From a terrace by the well‘a splendid view of

—— 100 -——

the Whole town is to be had, built in a semicircle
a1ound and above the Wady El Khar~,1ubeh or
V alley of Car-0b trees, ending to the right in the
g1oup of churches, which have giadually arisen
ove1 the plaCe held so sacred by all sects of Christ-
ians, as traditionally connected with the birth of
Christ.

The ancient town of Ephrath, or Ephrat-ah, iden-

tified (in Gen. leiii, 7) with

. BETHLEHEM,
meaning in Hebrew “ the house of bread ”

(called in A1abic Beit- l ahem, or the House of
tMeat), though Oiiginally “least among the tnou-
sands of Judah” (Micah 1v. 2), is distinguished in
its eai l1e1 h1sto1 y as having been the bi1thplace of
David (1 Sam. xvii. 1‘2), but chiefly, as that of his
descendant Jesus. (Matt. ii. 1, etc.) He1e, also,
David was anointed king by the Prophet Samuel
at the Lord s command, When He had rejected Saul
from reigning over Israel (1 Sam. xvi. l—13),
whence Bethlehem was called the City of David.
“(Luke 1i. 4.) This place was also the scene of the
interesting st01y of Ruth, Boaz, and Naomi, which
the traveller is advised to re-read before or after
his visit. .

Later in its history, after the Christian era, St. J e-
101ne took up his abode in One of the cav es near the
spot sanctified by the birth of Ch1ist, and ove1 which
is built one of the chu1ches f01 which Bithlehem 1s
famed. Here the saint dwelt for many yeais, and
wrote his theological works. He was born a pagan
at Stridon ; but in a vision, it is said, he was com-

C— 1017——

nianided‘tti‘) ‘relnouneeva. the study of heathen writers,
fOr he was alreadyxgiven to learned research. He
then learned Hebrew from: the Jews, and translated
, the Jewish Scriptures into Latin 5(the Vulgate). He
died A.D. 420, at theéagerof‘ninety4two years. Two
Roman ladies of great learning and piety, a mother
and daughter, named Paula andiEustachia, who had
become. converts to Christianity, and-Vhad studied
the Bible under Jerome, aCcompani-ed himsto Beth-
« lehem, where Paula founded a nu‘n’nery,‘oven which
- she presidedas abbess, and was, after de’a-th,7laid-.b:e~
side her friend and master in the rockatommbeneatb
~ the Church of the Nativity. Tahisigreat complex
' Church, which covers the cave-stable inwhich: Jesus
Jwas born and cradled, for-ms, with the. three monas-
teries," all under the same roof, a. solid,afortress-like
edifiCe‘, which hassurvived many vicissitudes,
including ‘:Severa.l. siege-s, resultinggin the utter
«devastation’and destruction-of. the7t‘0wn itselfi It
‘ is regarded by some, as the very oldest specimenof
. Christian architeCtureiextant, and its escapeTfrom
destruction when the ' town. was taken andflaid in
' ruins. by the Saracens under Hakim, A.‘.=I)i;"i.':"10.10,
B when the Crusaders, who had been 'sum'monedsto
the aid of the Christians of Bethlehem, :foun‘darit
still uninjured, appeared and was believed by them

to be miraculous. _ 5.,
On. Christmas Day, A.D. ‘71101,=bBaldwin3'wasjhére

crowned King of Jerusalem, the church held ‘most

sacred being in=those days “considered tobe the

,fittest place", for the, bestowalof rank and power.

In Am. .1482 Edward IV. of England and Philip

9— 102 —

.. of Burgundy joined 1n the pious work of furnishing
timber and lead to repair the leaking roof of this
_ venerable church. The woodwork was executed in
,Venice, and, being landed at Yafa, was brought
. thence to Bethlehem on camels. A few years later,
however the Tu1ks stripped off the lead to make
f bullets. [he high privilege of guardianship of the
‘ church is divided, as equally as may be, among the
religious bodies of Greeks, Armenians and Latins,
inhabiting the three monasteries, under the supervi-
sion of their respective patriarchs,1esiding 1n 011 near
. Jerusalem. The various sections of the g1 eat church
:' placed under the special care of each body are
minutely measured and partitioned off, with the
. view of minimising causes of quarrel; yet, m01e than
~ once, the questionb as to which party should regulate
the opening and shutting ofa door. has well nigh
1 plunged all EurOpe into 11 ar. Indeed, it is stated on
1 good authority, that the Crimean W ar really origi.
’ nated in some such miserable squabble among the
Christian guardians of the birthplace of ChriStianity.

-_ This jealous, petty rivalry IS. Still as strong as ever
, . within these sacred precincts; outward peace being
.with difficulty maintained. by Turkish soldiers, of
'whom‘ two 011 three are permanently Stationed on
;. guard before the altars; while at Christmas, when
the great Christian festival of the Bilth of Christ is
being celebrated, it is not uncommon for serious
disturbances to take place in spite of the presence
of a regiment of Moslem soldiers

The church contains seven busts, said to represent
the immediate forefathers of St. Joseph, and some

._' mg...

- mosaics, "one of which depicts thetrium-phal entry
_ of Jesus into Jerusalem, While a second 1epresents
»- the risen Saviour 1n the act of inviting T,homas the
do11bter,to “1each hither his hand” and touch His
. , wounds. These mosaics a1 e the relics of a series which
once adorned the church. Fifteen lamps perpetually
illumine the subterranean Chapel of the Nativity,
near Which is the Altar of the AdoratiOD, Which
commemorates the visit of the Magi

'1 hese, and several other chapels and altars, held
sacred to va1ious events in the 1nfant life 01' Jesus,
are arranged 1n natural caves in the rock on Which
the great church and the monasteries are built,and
it is scarcely necessary to add that all tradition and
historical research identify them With the events
said to have taken place here, and which have moved
* so large and important a part of the civilised wo1ld
to Wonder, gratitude, and adoration

The town, WhiCh had been rebuilt by the Crusad-
ers, was again devastated in A.D.1244 by the
rKhere‘zmians; and' m A. D. 1489 it was utterly des-
troyed; but, during the last thlee hundred years,
though often the scene of conflict between Bedou-
¥ in, Turk, and Christian, it has been g1adually
rising from its ruins, and now, that peace may be
said to prevail, the place is fairly prosperous. Its
.. fifteen thousand inhabitants are almost exclusiVely
"ChIistians, and are distinguished among the 8111-
‘ rounding peoples by their ene1gy and intelligence,
‘ and pa1ticula1ly by the g1ate and beauty of the
' women, specimens of Wh ose elegant and coquettish
' dress are frequently bought by st1angels It is

—104——

believed that these people are descended from the
Crusaders (many of whom settled hereabouts and
in Palestina generally), with an admixture of Syri-
-i. an and perhaps Saracenic blood.

Bethlehem is the market of the Dead Sea Be-
_‘douins, and also of the numerOus small towns and
j‘ villages 1n the vicinity , and it has, besides, Various
flourishing industries of its own—as, for example,
_the production of the delicately- fashioned and
~emb1101dered dresses abOVc mentioned and the
dam-1:1 1ndust1y ot thee carving of mother -of- pearl
V’Whlch 1s here carried to a high pitch of artistic and

i K1111cha11ical perfe :tion

_ ‘ The education ofthese intelligent and industrious
people is 11 ell p1 ov1ded fbr by seven or eight good
:T schools one of Which is German Protestant, anOther,
'EnO‘llsh suppoued by the “Female Education 1n
the t‘East” Society, while the others are maintained
f‘p'by the three monasteries. ,

Leavmg this venerable and most picturesque
pile We should next pay a visit to ,

., THE WOMEN’S GROTTO,

"':-..:,ln Which Joseph, Mary, and the Babe are said to
”haVe once found shelter and concealment. A drop
f of the Virgln Mother’s Milk, as she was giving suck
to the Holy Child, fell, it is said, to the floor of the
cave ever since Which, as both Moslims and Christ-
.. ians believe the rock- dust here possesses the mirac-
' ulous p1ope1ty of Increasing the flow of mothers
milk , and hither, accordingly, W omen. fr 0111 all parts

~105—

resort to buy cakes, which are made or sprinkled
with this dust. ,
The road hence leads to the ’
FIELD OF THE SHEPHERDS,

A tranquil and grassy plain, making with its
surroundings a pleasant picture, which helps the
imagination to realize the scene described in Luke
ii. 8—16, where to the “shepherds abiding in the
field, keeping watch over their flock by night,”
appeared “the angel of the Lord” bringing “ good
tidings of great joy, Which shall be unto all peOple. .
For unto you is born this day, in the city of David,
a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord.” And suddenly
there Was with the angel amultitude of the heaven-
ly host, praising God, and saying, Glory to God in
the highest, and on earth peace, good-will towards
men,” ’

EELEESAEEM %@ am fiflfliflififl»

. VIA THE MONASTERY OF THE CROSS

 

This excursion may be made with ease in an after-
noon; the ride to Ain (fountain) Karim taking
about one hour and a half. The'old road, a very
rough one, leads out of the Jaffa road, a hundred
yards or so above the gate, and takes the traveller
across. a‘rocky hill to the Greek Monastery of
the Cross, which lies in the valley beyond. This is
a partly new and large building‘of an irregular
quadrangular form, Which is entered by a heavy
iron wicket, This convent was founded by T atian,
king of the Georgians, in the fifth century; and,
after having» long stood empty and half in ruins,
wasin recent years restored by the power of Russi-
an gold and goodwill, which together have done
wonders with its ancient walls and once gloomy
corridors; to which they have added halls, chambers,
and refectories that would do honour to an English
university. A beautiful ancient mosaic still adorns
the pavement under the dome of the church; and
the altar screen has painted panels, which illustrate
the legendary history of the Saviour’s cross from
the time when the tree from which it was made was
planted in this spot by Noah. Behind the high altar
a circular aperture, lined with marble and bordered
with silver, marks the place where the tree is said
to have stood.

The convent contains a seminary, whose teach-

——107——

ing staff consists of six‘professors—all monks of
the Greek Church—who instruct numerous pupils
in theology, Greek, Latin, French, Hebrew, Arabic
and physics; '
The road hence to
AIN KARIM, '
The traditional birthplace {of John the Baptist,

Leads over the J ebel (Mountain) Ali, and gives the
traveller grand Views of the Wilderness of J udea,
with, from one point, the Mount of Olives on the
east and the Mediterranean Sea on the west; and
from this point, in forty minutes, he may reach the
Village of Ain Karim, where, according to tradition,
dwelt Zacharias the priest, and Elizabeth his wife,
in whose house the Virgin Mary abode about three
months, and sang her beautiful Magnificat; and
where Elizabeth, being “well stricken in years,”
brought forth a son, in fulfilment of the promise
of Gabriel, the angel of the Lord. (Luke i. 5—80.)

For hundreds of years the picturesque castellated
Convent Church of St. John the Baptist, originally
only a chapel cavern, was used by the Arabs to
stable their horses and donkeys. A French marquis,
ambassador of King Louis IV., persuaded the Sultan
to give it to the Franciscans, who forthwith cleansed
and restored it, making it one of the finest modern
churches in Palestine. Here, strangers may obtain
lunch or other refreshment. There are also at Ain
Karim other Latin monasteries; also Greek churches
and hospices, 'built and supported by the Russians
for the accommodation of their ecclesiastics and
pilgrims. The sisters of Zion have a‘ school for girls

—108—-

here, which is beautifully situated on a hill opposite
the Village.\ The'fountain from which the place
takes its name is a most picturesque spot, Where
scenes of a distinctively ‘oriental, and therefore
biblical character, may be observed by the stranger
artist. The celebrated General Gordon lived for
about a year in a house at Ain Karim before his
last jOurney to Khartoum.

, The traveller may return by the recently built
good carriage road, leading into the road from J aflc‘a,
about midway between Kolonieh and Jerusalem,
or by another which enters the Jaffa road near
Kolonieh.

aaaasaaaaa are am raise.

VIA THE VALLEY OF ROSES OR WADY-EL-WERD.

 

It takes a ride of fifty minutes to reach the Valley
of Roses f1o1n which, Ain Yalo IS gained 1n twenty
minutes mo1e. '

TheWady—el- NN e1d 1s so called from some planta-
..:tions ’of rose trees, which are cultivated for the
distillation of rose-water, much used 1n the East to
flavour cooling d1inks. After passing by the roses,
the wav lies th1ough olive g1oves, vineyards, and
cornfields. till we leach the Fountain of Yalo, on
the ancient road to Gaza.
The )Qurney from
JERUSALEM To BETHEL

ii Takes three hours and thirty minutes, and if the
traveller return by the d‘ireCt route via Beeroth, the
trip makes an easy day of between siX and seven
: hours In the saddle; but a longer and even more in-
teresting round may be taken via Anathoth, Geba,
Michmash, Ai, Ri1n1non,0phrah, Bethel and Bee1oth
by those who can suppOrt the fatigue Of a good teri
hours ride. This tOur leads the traveller among the
mountains and passes of Bethlehem, by a road every
step of which is mentioned in the Holy Scriptures .
" (see Jer. l, i. Xi. 21—23, XXXii. 7——-9,’XliX. 3 ; Ezra.
ii. ‘23 ——28 ; Judges XX. ; lst Sam, Xiii. xiv. .; 2nd Sam.
iv. 2, and v. 25; Neh. vii. 27—32; Isaiah X. 28—30;
Zeeb. Xiv. 10; Gen. Xii 7,, 8; Josh. Vii 2—5, viii.
1— 2.9.).

amassaeas mm aaaesaaaaa

I Spending one or two nights away.

————-_.

JERUSALEM TO NABLOUS, or SHECHEM.

This trip may be done in two long days, riding
twelve hours a day, and sleeping at Nablous. The
way leads through the upper part of the Valle}r of
the Kedron, and across Mount Scopus, where Titus
encamped his army at the beginning of the great
siege, A.D. 7 O, which ended in the destruction of' the
Temple as well as the city. From this summit many
consider that the best general View of Jerusalem
and its general surroundings is to be had ; and look-
ing in the opposite direction the scene is also very
beautiful and interesting. Descending, the traveller
now passes through Gibeah of Saul, and Ramah of
Benjamin, and bythe Castle of Baldwin up to Shiloh;
and thence visiting J acob’s well en route, he reaches
N ablous, probably somewhattired. From various
points in the day’s journey the traveller will have
enjoyed fine views of Mount Gerizim, the mountain
of blessing, and of Mount Ebal, the mountain of
cursing (Deut. Xi. 29,'and xxvii. 4,——l3, also Josh.
viii. 33—34) ; and also of the snowy peaks of Mount
. Hermon, in the far distance to the north, the centre
(of the kingdom Where reigned “ 0g, King of Ba-
shan, which was of the remnant of the giants.”
(.losh. Xii. 4, 5.)

(Shechem (Josh. XXiv. 1—925), or Nablous, is the
home of the remnant of the people of Samaria (the

~111—

capital city of the ten tribes), now numbering but
one hundred and fifty-five persons. The Samaritans
have preserved in their Synagogue some of the most
ancient and most beautifully inscribed rolls of the
Jewish Scriptures now extant in the old (not
square) Hebrew characters.

JERUSALEM TO MAR SABA,
via?
Hours Minutes.
RACHEL’s TOMB . . 1 OO

POOLS or SOLOMON 1 15
BETHLEHEM . . 1 00
MAR SABA > . . , . 2 5O
JERUSALEM 2 30

TOTAL . i . ' I 8 35

The tourist may combine the visit to Bethlehem
and Mar Saba in one, should he prefer it, and in
that case may equalise the two days’ journeys by
paying a visit to the Pools of Solomon before going
to Bethlehem. The journey must be performed
on horseback, and the time occupied by its several
stages Would be as follows :— '

In this trip the night may be spent either at
Bethlehem or at Mar Saba, or the order of the places
may be reversed at pleasure. Should, however, the
moon serve for a moonlight View of the convent
and its savage surroundings, the tourist .is advised
to select that as his resting-place for the night, as

the moonlight effect on the convent and cliffs, rising

—‘112—

' as they do out of the dark shadows of the valleys,
'. is most beautiful and striking, and can never be
forgotten by the artist. , L

' The ”Pools of SolomOn, reservoirs madeby the
great king," and connected with those under the area
of the Temple by aqueductfiar‘e well worthy of a
Visit; andif not. included in the trip as sketched
above, may be taken en route to Hebron, as follows :—

jERUSA LEM TO H EBRO

12M, , '
»‘ ~ ~ , ” HOurs- Minutes.
SOLOMON’S POOLS . ,, . . 2 15
HEBRON . . . .. . .4 00
. Total . . . - . 6 15

' OR BY CARRIAGE [IN FOUR HOURS.

~» T here'is particularlygood camping ground at the
- Pools; but as .. this divides ”the distance very un-
~ evenly, itwould‘seem best to camp for the night ’at
1 Hebron; and if thetraveller have not already Visit-
edAln Karim, he mayu__:tgake.. that interesting place
Erin his. return journey to Jerusalem.

Hebron is specially-9interesting as having been
the dWell‘ing-place of Abraham and Sarah (Gen.
“xiii; ,18“; "XXiii. 2, 19.;randxxv. 8, 9), and the place
" where: both died and were buried. The Cave of
*Machpelah, however, is not tO'be seen by either
. Christian orJew, for athe‘Moslerns haVe built over
ita particularly sacred mosque, which may not be
"polluted by the presence of either.

——113—

There are here some ancient and interesting glass
works well worth inspection. . t

 

The Pools of Solomon may be combined, if pre-
ferred, with a visit to the Frank Mountain—called

also The Herodium, and by the Arabs El Ferdis
(Paradise)—and Bethlehem, as follows :—

JERUSALEM TO BETHLEHEM,

ma
Hours. Minutes.

THE POOLS OF SOLOMON . 2 15
THE CAVE OF ADULLAM . 1 50
THE FRANK MOUNTAIN . O 40
BETHLEHEM . . . 1 30

Total . v. . 6 15

In this trip, on the way from the Pools to Khur-
eitun the traditional Cave of Adullam, the traveller
passes Etam, one of the cities built by Rehoboam “for
defence in Judah” (2 Chron. Xi. 5, 6), and which
was therefore, doubtless, in those times, a fortified
place. Thence to the traditional Cave of Adullam,
whither David fled from the wrath of Achish, king
of Gath, and where “ everyone that was in distress,
and everyone that was in debt, and everyone that
was discontented gathered themselves unto him;
and he became captain over them.” (1 Sam, XXiii.
1, 2.) FrOm the Cave, the ascent of the Frank
Mountain—so called because on its slopes some
Crusaders are saidto have made’their last stand
against the Saracen before they were finally driven

_ 414 .......

out of J udea—may be made in forty minutes. This
mountain is curiously angular in its profile, resemb-
‘ling a truncated cone, and 1s a conspicuous feature
in the landscape from almost any point of View, but
specially so f1om the Mount of Olives Its summit
was the site of the 1oyal city of He1od the Great,
and was during his reign crowned with magnificent
palaces, many traces ot which me still discove1able;

and because of which 1t is also called The Herodium

 

One of the most interesting of the short excu1 sions
which may be made from Jerusalem, is that to '
Jericho and the Dead Sea, which may either be
' combined with the Mar Saba and Bethlehem tour—
which plan is only suited for those travellers who
are pretty well seasoned to fatigue—or, as it is more
generally done, simply as follows:—

JERUSALEM'TO THE JORDAN, AND BACK,

viii
Hours. Minutes
JERICHo . . . . 5 3O
DEAD SEA 2 00
RIVER JORDAN . 1 00
J ERICHO 2 ()0
JERUSALEM 5 30
Total . . . 16 00

Sleeping two nights at Jericho, where there are two
good hotels, and lunching on the intervening day on
the banks of the Jordan, in the shadeofits tamarisk
groves.

~115—

The route follows the main and ancient road
round the base of the Mount of Olives to Bethany,
where dwelt the family of Lazarus the friend of
Jesus; then down to the waters of Enshemesh,
mentioned in Josh XV. 7. This 1s the only drink-
“able water on the road between J e1 usalem and J e-
richo that at the midway khan, 011 resting- place for
travelleis, being very bad.

Towards the end of the fourth hour the scenery
becomes very wild, among the barren and rugged
Cliffs where the Brook Cherith takes its rise. Her e—
abouts at the Convent of St. Geor,ge about tVt entv
minutes off the main road, is the cave where, by the
waters of the brook, the Prophet Elijah dwelt,
“according to the word of the Lord”; “and the
ravens brought him bread and flesh in the morning,
and bread and flesh in the evening; and he drank
of the brook.” (lKings xvii. 2—6.) And here also
is the “Valley of Achor,” the scene of the tremen-
dous punishment of Achan by Joshua for his sin
when he took “the accursed thing” out of Jericho
Josh. vii. 21—26); and the spring Elisha healed
with salt (2 Kings ii. 19—22), which is called “Eli—
sha’s Spring,” or, by the Arabs, Ain Es Sultan. The
tourist may either camp here, or, if not travelling
with tents, go on to the modern town of Jericho,
and lodge in the Russian Hospice, or in one of the
two hotels. The ancient town of Jericho, whose
walls fell down flat at the sound of the trumpets of
Joshua, and at the sound of the shouting of the

people when they had compassed the city seven
times (Josh. vi. 11 —-—. 21), stood beside Elisha’s

—-116-—-

Spring; and some ruins, supposed to have formed
(part of it, are still to be seen there.

The ride next morning to the Dead Sea lies
over a sandy plain and, towards the end, Winds
between curiously- shaped sandhills.

The water of the Dead Sea is exquisitely blue and
brilliantly clear most tempting for a bath after the
hot ride; but it is said to be So heavily saturated
with salt as to make swimming a difficult feat, so
little of the body being immersed.

This sea is believed to have once covered a much
larger area than it now does, its surface being at
the present day 1 ,295 feet below the level of the
=Mediterranean. As there are now sailing-boats on
the Lake visitors who like to do so may indulge
in a sail. The Government it is believed intends
9to plaCe a steam- launch on the Dead Sea ere long.

The ride from the shore of the Dead Sea to the
Jordan, at the place where tourists generally camp
for luncheon, takes about an ho-1,u1 of which the last
ten minutes is spent 1n b1ush1n01 tlirOugh low scrub,
'WhiCh rises, as the river is approached, into a nar-
row belt of forest, principally composed of tamarisk
trees. The river is brown and turbid, in strong
cOntrast with the crystal- clear waters of the Dead
"Sea, and the swift stream slips along noiselessly
betiveen its sandy banks. On the side opposite
the t1aVeller a curiously- stratified cliff of sandstone
1ises perpendicularly from the water, but ends
abruptly 111 a dense sh1ubbe1v of brilliant green,
as the river curves awa1 towards the right, its
brown, smooth s111face showing darkly through

-— 117 ——
the red holes and feathery foliage of the tamarisk
grove on the near side. There is a wooden bridge
across the river at a point some distance above

the bathing place,

On the return journey, if sufficiently energetic to
,Inake a slight de’tour, the traveller may visit an
ancient mosque called “ Nebby Moussa, sacred to the
—“ Prophet Moses," whither devout Moslems resort
in large numbers at Easter—time, bearing in stately
procession a certain most holy banner from the
Mosque of Omar, whose departure from Jerusalem
and return thither is honoured by the attendance
in state of the Governor and his suite of notables,
with a large military escort. This great function at
Eastertide has been arranged, it is believed, to
occupy and amuse the Faithful during the Church
ceremOnies of the Christian festival at that season,
and owes its origin to the shrewd policy of the
Turkish Government in having a large body 'of
Mohammedans at hand, ready to move apon J eru-
salem at. a moment’s notice should occasion require,
and yet without any of the excitment which would
be caused by the formal calling out of the military
reserves. .

On the next day the traVellers return to J erusa~
lem by the same route, which, however, affords
very different views to those seen from the opposite
point. Before leaving the camping ground at Elisha’s
Spring, one has a grand View of the valley of the
Jordan, hemmed in, on all sides by blue mountains,
Mount Nebo being conspicuous to the left among
the mountains of Moab, with the long slender white

-—-118-—

line of the Dead Sea lying at their feet, and (livid-
nig their misty blues sha1ply from the rich and
varied greens of the fe1tile oasis of Je1icho below.
To the 11ght, .1n the middle distance, may be seen
the Quarantania Mountain, so called on the tradi-
tional supposition that its desert sides were the
scene of the forty da}s te111ptation of Christ byt lt1e '
DeVil, described 1n \latt. iv. 1-11; and its summit,
Ihat of the 11.111. eless but “exceeding high mountain’
whence the Evil One showed Him “all the kingdoms
of the world and the glory of them; and said unto
Him, “All these things will I give 'l’hee, if 'l’hou wilt
talldown and worship me.” (Verses 8—9.) The
wilderness of Engedi is a'so to be seen from this
point, in ‘1‘ the strongholds” of which David hid
himself from Saul. (1st Sam. XXiV,)

The longer trip to Jericho and the Dead .Sea,
returning by Mar Saba and Bethlehem, may be

arranged as follows, or vice 12672961:

JERUSALEM.
Hoars. Minutes.

To JERIoHo . . . . 5 3O
RIVER JORDAN. . , 2 00
DEAD SEA . 1 00
CONVENT on MAR SABA 5 00
BETHLEHEM - . 2 5O
JERUSALEM . ., ‘ . 1 30
Total. . . . I 17 50

Should the tou1ist desi1e to Visit the City of
Engedi, on the sl1o1e of the Dead Sea, mentioned

'—119—‘—

in the Bible in connection with “the City of Salt”
(Josh. XV. 62), the eXCursion may be made from
Mar Saba, by a direct but rugged 1oute, in seven
hours, or from Bethlehem 1n eight hours; but if the
party is to be accompanied by the heaVy and bulky
paraphernalia of a camp, a longer but smoother, and
therefore more suitable way may be taken from

MAR SABA To ENGEDI,‘

72/12
Hours. Minutes.
FESHKA . . , . 4 30
A 1N TRABI . . . 4 21)
ENGEIM . . . . 6‘ 00
Total . . . . . 14 5O

’1‘ Tours to Petra Land of Moalo, Hauran, Pal-
n1yra,Bagdad etc. etc. ,11equi11e aspecial protection
from the:D local Authorities 011 Bedouin Scheiks,
the cost of which, Va1y1ng in acco1 dance with the
numerical strength of travellers and the peculiar
circumstances must, of course, be defrayed by
tourists. - '

Grams storms aria man sass.

ALEXANDRIA .............. Hotel Abbat.
,, Khedivial.
ATHENS ........... . ........ Hotel des Etrangers. _
,, d’Angleterre.
'BEYROUT .. ._ .............. Hotel d’Orient.

,, Bellevue.
These two Hotels are the largest and best in Beyrout.

Hotel d’Europe.
,, d’Angletrre.
,, des Etrangers,
Are small, but good.

CAIRO .. . . .. .. ............... Shepheard’s Hotel.

Ghezireh Palace,
Continental Hotel.
Hotel d’Angleterre.
New Hotel.
Mena House, (by the Pyramids of Gizeh.)

Are the largest and most fashionable ; while the

Hotel du Nil

' Is not-ed for its good cuisine, beautiful garden, comfortable
rooms. and the special attention paid by the proprietor and
also by the energetic manager to the comfort of their guests.

Hotel Bristol.
,, Royal. .
,, Khedmal
Are also good Hotels, while their charges are moderate.

CONSTANTINOPLE ......... Hotel Bristol.

,, Royal.
,, Bezanoe.
,, de Londres.

- ,, Pera Palace.
Are all first-class Hotels.

—121——

DAMASCUS .................. Hotel Bassrawi.
,, Victoria.
Are both first-class Hotels. Hotel Bassrawi has a magnificent
Oriental court, with marble fountain and flowering trees.

ISMAILIYA ................. .Hotel des Bains de Mer
Is a charming house.
JERUSALEM ....... ...Howard.’s Hotel.

Outside the Yafa Grate, commands a fine View of the hills
surrounding the city. This Hotel is newly furnished, and
provided with every comfort and convenience for visitors.
' Good air and sanitary arrangements.

The New Hotel.

‘ Is a good and comfortable Hotel within the walls.

Hotel Feil.
,, d’Europe.

The Jerusalem Hotel.

On the Yafa Road, is served according to the Jewish law
with Kascher 'pi ovisions.

PORT SAID .................. Hotel Continental.

,, Eastern Exchange.
Are clean and well served.

Are good Hotels.

SUEZ ............. ..... ..Suez Hotel.
Is the oldest established and the best.
YAFA. ....... ........ Howard’s Hotel.

Is one minute’s walk from the Jaifa Gate. It commands
beautiful views of the sea, the'city, and the famous orange
groves; and has a library, and a reading-room supplied with -

« the principal European newspapers. Here tourists can .be sup-
plied with Carriages, horses. guides, and every other requisite

for travelling.

Hotel du Pare.

Jerusalem Hotel.
In the German Colony, a little further from the town' than
Howard’s, are comfortable.

Palestine Hotel.

Is served after the Jewish law.

  

ssaasnar
anwwwwww

 

FROM

iMPERIAL AND ROYAL FAMILIE‘S

TRAVELLING IN THE HOLY LAND~

 

WITH

GHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD’S
INDEPENDENT INTERNATIONAL EASTERN TOURS.

,. .1. .I.I.

TN introducing to those contemplating Eastern Travel
\ the nature and completeness of his arrangements,
CHEVALLER A. Howard wishes to call attention to the 85
years’ long experience, which has enabled him to bring
to their present state of effectiVeness, his facilities for
long or short, associated or independent Tours, in Pales-
tine and Syria.

'Ifit should be attempted to give a list of the nobles,
eminent and renowned English, American and European
tiavcllers who have expressed satisfaction, many pages
would be requir,ed but to show the extentof the iesou1ces

-——123—

at his disposal, as regards camping equipages (of all.
descriptions and the best of their kind), horses, mules, pa-
lanquins, provisions, servants, dragomen, escort, etc. a few
testimonials are given from the Imperial and Royal person-
ages, who, together with staff, suite and retinue, (in each
separate case numbering 80 , 50, 30, or 20, persons),
have availed themselves of CHEV. A. HOWARD’s services.
Whilst proud to publish the Testimonials of his Imperial
and Royal patrons, yet his desire is to be understood that
all travellers, whatever their s0cial standing, will meet
the best possible assistance, attention and consideration.

All communications to be addressed :——- is .,
CHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD

H award’s Hotel,
[did :or femsalem.

 

new mini) Innnrnnnnnr TOURS.

 

GHEYHBIER HBEXHNDEE HQWHRD,
gnaexrruamt “gutmmtimml wombat Qtuutmtm',
PROPRIETOR 0F

HOWARD’S HOTEL, JAFFA,

HOWARD’S HOTEL, JERUSALEM,

Providing the best accommodation in the Holy City.

 

 

 

nemwmawewmewq
2%§ unsumenraus g2

fl++++++++i ' ’ ’ ‘ ’ ++++++$FT
IIIVIIVIVIIIIVIIIIIIVI\

From ILL and R.H. the Crown Prince and Arch-Duke Rudolph.

$§HEVALIER A. HOWARD, Proprietor of Howard’s Hotel, J aifa and J eru-
J salem, who undertook to find tents, horses, mules, carriages, and drag-
omen, and also the general management of all commissariat and other
arrangements required for the service of His Imperial and Royal Highness
the Crown Prince Arch-Duke Rudolph of Austria, of His Royal Highness
the Grand Duke of Tuscany, their suite and retinue, during their travels in
Syria and Palestine in the. spring of 1881, succeeded in fulfilling his arduous
duties with great credit to himself and to the great comfort in every way
of the distinguished party of travellers. CHEV. HOWARD’S knowledge of the
native dialects of the country generally, and of all interesting localities,
joined to his indomitable energy, gave their Imperial and Royal High-
nesses entire satisfaction, and earned for himself appreciation and ac-
knowledgment. CHEV. HOWARD deserves to'be highly recommended for
‘ such excursions.
(Signed) BOMBELLIS,

Vienna, Slst May, 1881. First Chamberlain to 17. I. and R. H.

-—125—-

From the Governor-General of Palestine

Impressed Seal, Jerusalem, 16th April, 1881.
Government of Palestine. ,

éfiWE, the Governor-General of Palestine, bear witness and certify by
154/ these ,Presents, that CHEV. ALEXANDER HOWARD, who, under a

contract with this Provincial Government, had engaged to find,
for a certain sum allowed him by the public authorities, all such provisions,
tents, horses, dragomen, &c., as might be required for the service of H.
I. and R. H. Arch-Duke Rudolph of Austria and Hungary, duringhis
travels in Palestine and Syria, did most honourably execute this great and
. arduous task to the satisfaction of our'illustrious visitors and their suite,
thereby earning for himself our unqualified approbation and heartfelt

thanks.
Seal (Signed) ‘ RAOUF PACHA.
Government of Jerusalem.

c—r

From their Imperial Highnesses the, Grand-Dukes of Russia.

@ HIS is to certify that CHEVA LIER ALEXANDER HOWARD, in the capacity .

 

of Tourist Contractor, was in attendance upon their Imperial High-
nesses, the Grand Dukes Sergius, Paul, and Constantine of Russia,
"during the n hole time-cf their visit to Jerusalem and t1avels in the Holy
Land, when he displayed the greatest zeal and attention in the discharge
of his duties.
In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and seal.

(Signed) STEPANOFF,

Lieut.- Col. of the Household of H.I.H. the
Grand-Duke Sergius of Russia.

Jerusalem, 28th May and 9th June, 1881.

From H. R. H. Prince Friedrich Charles of Prussia.
Beirout, 23rd March, 1883.

Tou1ist Contractm in the service of H. R. H. P1 ince Friedrich Charles
of PruSsia during his travels through Palestine, Syria and Palmyra.
It was entirely due 'to CHEVALIER HOWARD’S remarkable energy, caution, ,
and unwearied exertions, that the great difficulties caused by the bad
‘ weather and impassable roads were surmounted.
I certify to the foregoing facts by command of H. R. H. Prince Friedrich,
Charles of Prussia.

J

‘i /9 HEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD has proved himself a most efficient
l

(Signed) VON KALKSTEIN,
Captain and Equerry in Wain'ng.

-—-—126—-‘-

ff f , Schroeder, Imperial German Consul at Beirout, do hereby certify that
the, above is the signature of Captain Von Kalkstein, Equerry in

Waiting to H. R. H. Prince Friedrich Charles of Prussia.
(Signed) SCHROEDER,

Beirout, 231'd March, 1883. Consular Seal, Imperial German Consul.

 

From H. H. Prince Alexander of Bulgaria

' gflEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD, of J‘a‘fia, in the capacity of Tourist
Contractor, accompanied His Highness Prince Alexander the First
of Bulgaria. during his tour through Palestine and the Holy Land.
Said contractor displayed circumspection and energy in making all needful
arrangements to the entire satisfaction of HisHighncss and suite.
Certified by (Signed) BARON RIEDEN.
Jafla, 29th April, 12583. . ' Marshal to the Court.

The Grand Master of H..I and R. H. the Crown Prince Rudolph.

/.I\
K; 3, bear witness that CHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD, of Jaifa, had
Q5 the conduct of the travels of their Imperial and Royal Highnesses
_ the Heredita1y Prince and Princess of Austria-Hungary 1n Palestine,
Syria, and to the Lebanon, that he made all the arrangements, and provided
for all the wants and comforts of the expedition with the greatest atten-
tion and the most considerate cale. ‘
I can recommend him to all t1avellels, as much for the moderation of
his charges as for the excellence of his service
(Signed) , BOMBELLIS.
' The Grand Master of H1. and R. H.

R 293 5 ,
11.1.1.0. ~ 1885.

In consideration of the above services
His Imperial and Royal-Apostolical Majesty,
FRANCIS JOSEPH I.
Emperor of Aust1ia, King of Hunga1y and Bohemia,
With thei1 own Royal handWriting
, Of the 7th of April 1885,
Have been graciously pleased to confer
Upon
ALEXANDER HOWARD,
0f .Ia‘tfa,
The Gold Cross of Merit.

——127-‘—

firm Office of the Imperial Austrian Order of Francis Joseph begs to'
enclose herewith the Cross of Merit, desiring that it may be furnished

with the Ribbon of the Order, adding on its reverse side the enclosed'
date, and returned to the Office of the aforesaid Order.

C. BAYER.
Vienna, the 8th oprril, 1885.-

, Q

The Vice-Governor of H.R.H. the Prince of Naples.
‘ Beirout, March 11th,1887.
<éZiHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD was engaged by the Government of
HIM. the Sultan, to convey H.R.H. the Prince of Naples and his
Suite from Jerusalem to Damascrs and Beirout, and to provide‘ithe tentire
equipments and services of the camp and table during the journey.
Thanks to the abundant and excellent material at the disposal of CHEV.
HOWARD, and thanks still more to his activity and incessant care,- all the
difficulties of thejourney were overcome in the most admirable manner;
and the undersigned 1s delighted to assure CHEVALIER HOWARD of the
full satisfaction of the august Prince. _
(Signed) EGIDIO Osro,

Colonel the Vice-Governor of H.R.H.
the Prince of Naples.

In consideration of the above services,
HIS MAJESTY HUMBERT I.,
By the grace of God and by the will of the Nation,
King of Italy,
Grand Master of the Order of the Crown of Italy,
Has confirmed the following decree :—

2‘Efl’ON the proposal of the President of the Council of Ministers, our
5L” Minister the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, we have nominat-
ed. and do nominate, ALEXANDER HOWARD as Knight of the Order

of the Crown 0 Italy, confirmingahim in the right to wear the ensigns
of the said equestrian rank.

The Chancellor of the Oidel is charged with the execution of this decree,
w hiCh will be registered at the Office of the said Ordei.
(Signed) UMBERTO
(Countersigned) DEPRETIS.
(Vise) C. CORRENTI.

4—128——

EHE Chancellor of the Order of the Crbwn of Italy declares that in
execution of. the above-mentioned venerated Royal command, the
aforesaid ALEXANDER HOWARD has been inscribed in the Roll of
Knights (Foreign) as NO. 2467 ; and he sends the present document to the
decorated.

GreatiSeal CESAR CORRENTI,
«of the Order The Chancellor of the Order.
of the 0mm P MODOLO

of Ialy . .

Chief of the Staff.
Rome, on this 6th of May, 1887.

H.1.M. _:
(Ship Rinda) , Jaifa, 16th January, 1889.

HIM. Grand-Duke Alexander of Russia.

'P HEREBY certify that CHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD accom- ,
g panied me and my party during my tour in Palestine and made it
very comfortable, he also contracted for the Crew of H.I. M. Ship
Rinda from J affa to Jerusalem and back in perfect orde1, and has supplied
them with excellent food.
I am glad to give him this certificate, and recommend him to all tourists
W ho wish to have an agreeable and comfortable travel 1n Palestine.
(Signed) GRAND DUKE
Alexander of Russia

From the Governor-General of Palestine.

I 1.. ,d S (l,
(G mprtsse ea )

overnment of Palestine. Jerusalem, 28th January, 1890.

éWE the Governor-General of Palestine, bear witness and certify that
§ CHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD, with whom we made the
contract for conducting H.I.H. the Prince Henry of. Prussia during
his stay in Palestine, has fulfilled all the points of his engagement.
We have great pleasure in giving him this certificate, to express ‘our
satisfaction at the fulfilment of his duties.
‘ (Signed) Re’chad Pacha.

—129-—

@UT for the fear of wearying the reader, and appearing unnecessarily
Q!) egotistic, CHEVALIER HOWARD might add innumerable valuable

and flattering testimonials from travellers of all ranks of Society
including some from ladies travelling alone, who were pleased to find
the expected difiiculties of the route smoothed for them, and “travelling
made easy” by CHEVALIER HOWARD’S “kind thoughtfulness and unremit-
ting care.” Any one who may desire further assurance of CHEVALIER
HOWARD’S capacity and success in the business of furnishing and escorting

travellers in the East, is referred to his Books of Testimonials which are
to be seen at

HOWARD’S HOTELS,
JAFFA, JERUSALEM.

IMPERIAL AND ROYAL TRAVELLERS IN THE EAST.

 

 

 

 

Independent Eastern Tours.

 

As a curiosity in the annals of Eastern travel,
CHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD has here printed the
details of the contract made by him for the journey of the
Imperial Crown Prince Rudolph of Austria, through
Palestine, all of which were carried out to the entire
satisfaction of H.I.H.; and to show how well it has been
possible for ,HOWARD to carry out his obligations to
provide throughout the country a table worthy of H.I.H.
and other Royal Personages (the Grand Dukes of Russia,
H.I.H. Prince Friedrich Charles ofPrussia, H.H. Prince
ALEXANDER the First of Bulgaria, and others), he prints
a few of the menus, which will convey to those who have
travelled through Palestine an idea of the difficulties met
and overcome. .

 

CONTRACT

Between the Irrzperidl Ottoman Government and Chevalier
Alexander Howard, Tourist Contractor,
of J (tfot, P atesttne. '

l, the undersigned, hereby bind myself to provide all the
undermentioned articles for the journey of H.I. and
R.H Prince Rudolph of AuStria and Hungary through
Palestine and Syria.

ARTICLE 1.—The undersigned binds himself to provide all the under-
mentioned: Twenty-five tents of the first-class, two of which [sleeping
tents] will be lined with rich silk of tricolour—Le, green, red, and
yellow, to represent the Austrian flag. Two dining tcn ts, with three poles.
One reception tent, with three poles, for His Highness and suite, and one
reception tent, with two poles, for the second class. The Prince’s recep-
tion tent will be furnished with finest Persian carpets, two elegant silk
velvet sofas, and six upholstered arm-chairs, ,and thirty chairs called

—.131 —.'

_- “pliantes a la mode de Paris,” and thirty camp stools, chandeliers,
Chinese flower vases three different sets for coflee—Chinese and
Turkish styles and one of Sevres porcelain, narghilees, chibooks, and
cigarettes a volonte. Lemonade and sweet Turkish drinks, ready at all
hours in camp and while travelling; with special attendance, and a,
costly musical box that plays twelve tunes.

ARTICLE II. ——The sleeping tents of His Highness the Prince and of the

. Archduke of. Tuscany will be furnished With Persian and Turkish .

0 carpets, large iron beds, with silk mosquito curtains, two mattresses , '
of wool covered with silk ticking, and all the coverlids must be of rich
silk, and the linen must be all new and of the finest quality. The dress-
ing tent will be furnished with Turkish carpets. toilet sets with mirrors,
jugs and basins of fine China porcelain, and all other requirements of

a first-class quality.

ARTICLE IfI. —-The tents of the gentilhommes d’honneur will be furnished
with galvanised bedsteads, carpets, and all necessaries as provided for
first-class t1'.avellers . ‘

ARTICLE IV.—The tents of the servants will be furnished with the usual
traVelling requirements, and the linen will be first-class.

ARTICLE V.—The table service will be of Cristophle silver Of the first
quality, the glasses of cut glass, for everykind of beverage.

ARTICLE VL—The four waiters will be dressed in the European style,
with White gloves and ties; and one waiter will be specially and
exclusively appointed for His Highness’ tent and service.

ARTICLE VII.—.—Four kerosene lamps [the first ever used in Palestine
travelling] and chandeliers with candles will be provided for the whole
journey, and flambeaux torches will be light-ed every nightaround the
camp.

ARTICLE VII] .——The kitchen utensils will be all new, and. of the first
quality. Five cooks,.two of whom will be maitres (chefs de cuisine)

ARTICLE IX.—-The menu,.as per enclosed, varying daily.

ARTICLE X.—-Thirty-five saddle horses, with English, 01' native saddles at
option, and the'best to be found in this country. Ahundred mules to
carry the baggage. Eight carriages for those who Wish to drive to J e-
rusalem (the Only road in the country) ; and a special calisolet, in the
French style, for His Highness the Prince and Archduke, from Jafi‘a
to Jerusalem only, and ten extra horses to follow, to be ready for use
in case of acciden‘t'or need of change.

ARTICLE Xl.«———The price fixed upon for each personage, from the day of
landing at Jaf’fa, for any number of days, travelling not under 20 per-
sons, will be four pounds sterling (£4) each person per day.

ARTICLE Xll.-My hotel, called the Universal Hotel, at Latroon [Valleyf

Q

‘132 —

of Ajalon]. will beat the free disposal of His Imperial Highness and
his suite ;' and if palanquins and ambulances should be needed, they

Will‘b’e furnished at extra payment.

Jerusalem, March 22nd, 1881. A
6

[Signed and agreed,]

ALEXANDER HOWARD.

 

. V P'S.—This Contract was carried out in every detail to the entire satisfaction of His
Imperial Highness and Suite, and of the Imperial Ottoman Government.

 

 

Campement de 8'. A. Impe’m’ale

LE PRINCE D’AUTRICHE.
ENSYRIE. '

i

Cafe au Lait.

Thé. Chocolat. Cacao.

Gateaux. Confitures.

$91qu an £21m.

Miel. (Eufs.
Omelettes aux trufies.
Dindonneaux froids.

gum flu grim-mar.

Hors-d’CEuvres.
Lobster. '
Salami.

‘ Sardines a l’huile.
Plats de Cuisine.
Cotelettes d’agneaux a la puree
de pomme de terre.
Rognons Sautés.

Potage.
Pate d’italie.
Relevé.
Mouton bouilli a l’Angiaise.
Escaloppes de veau garnies.
En trees. '
J ambon aux Epinards.
Pigeons aux petits pois.
Legumes.
Haricots verts.

 

Pigeons frits a la Viennoise.
Dindonneaux.

Doueemns.
Gateaux a la Mazarin.
Fromages.
Cheshire.
Desserts Assert/is.

‘ Cafe.

331mm flu @intu '

Roti.
Perdreaux.
Salade.

2 a la Russe.
Entremets.
Rice Pudding.
Compote d’Orange
, Fremages.
Roquefort. Gruyere.
Desserts Assert/is.
Cafe.

1‘3

— 1.33 —-
mutation an 5m.

Thé. Café. l Biscuits. Gfiteaux.
Chocolat. Punch au Citron, &c., &c.

 

Campement d6 8'. A. Royale
LE PRINCE FREDERIC CHARLES DE PRUSSE

EN PALESTINE.

gum (In 3323mm.

 

H mas-d’ (Euvres. Douceurs.
C stteRrs. Compéte d’Apricots,
aware usse. . .
Beurre. Radis. Olives. Rlz an lalt 31a Turque.
Plats d6 Cuisine. meages.
Macaroni a l’Italienne. Hollande.
Ragofit de dinde aux pommes Desserts Assortis.
de terre. ,
Beefsteaks naturel. ‘ Cafe.

31312111: an glitter.

Potage. Salade. _
Pate d’ltulie. a la Russe.
Releve. V . Entmmets.
Langue de veau/ aux ohves. Plum Pudding.
Entm’es. C At d’ 0
Vol au vent aux poulets. ' 013190 e cranbes.
Gigot d’agneau garni. ' meages.
Légume. Suisse; ‘
Pilafe a la Persane. ’ . Hollande.
Réti. Desert Assartzs.

 

Oie Cog/ӎ

——134—-

Campement d6 LL. AA. II.

LES GRANDS DUCS DE RUSSIE
’ ENSYRIE. v

—-—

$912111: :11: gm.

A POZage.
Au Sago.
Relevé

Gigot de moufon
sauce de capres.

EntTées.

Pigeons aux pommes de terre.

Kafta a la Turque.

Legumes.
Petits pois.

 

Rétz'.
de canard.
Salade.
de saIson.
Entremets.

. Plombiére de fruits.
Savarin au Rhum.
meages.
Hollande.
Desserts Assartz’s.

Café.

 

Campement de S. Altesse

LE PRINCE ALEXANDRE DE BULGARIE
EN PALESTlNE.

991mm (111 fliuer.

» P0250596.
Péte d’ltalie.
Relevé.
Poissons frits.
Entrées.
Pigeons 2‘1, lapurée de Ientilles
Agneau A. la Broche.
Biz a la Persienne.
Légumes.
Asperges an beurre fondu.
Réti.

Dindonneaux.

If

 

Salade.
de Concombres.
Entremets.
Beignets soufflés.
Cl‘éme a la Vanllle.
A Fromages.

Hollande. Cheshire.
Roquefort.

Dessevnts Assortis.
Café.

a la Turque.

 

ALEXANDER ,HOWARD, JAFFA, JERUSALEM.

(y i

1

Re HOWARD’S HOTEL, JAFFA,

. , . AND .
“BAE DEKER’S GUIDE TO PALESTINE AND
. SYRIA.” ‘

W

fight the itigttfiomt Gig/[Mint in dammit.
’ ' QUEEN’S’RENCH DIVISION,

”HOWARD v DULAU & Co.

iigN Action tried before the l ord Chief Justice of England and

‘ a SPECial jury on the 7th August, I895, wherein ALEXANDER [

HOWARD, Tourist Contractor, and the Proprietor of Howards’s‘

Hotel, Jaffa, and Howard’s Hotel, )erusalem, was the Plaintiff, __
and DULATT & Co, the Publishers in England of “Baedeker’s‘v‘ '
Guide to Palestine ,ar1d,._§Syria,” were the Defendants. ,

The facts of. the case were, shortly as follows —-

. In I8,73,.ALEXANDER HOWARD opened the Hotel atiif i,

jaffa known as Howard’s Hotel, which IS situated in the Street".

i' , bearing the name ofits owner, Mr. Howard. The Hotel has

long been recognized as a first class Hotel, and for many years, '
past it has been patronized by the leading visitors to Jaffa. The,
following are some ofthe principal Visitors to Palestine Who have

i , travelled under contracts with M1. Howard and have stayed at ‘1

his Hot els: —' ‘
TJH. THE ARCHDUKE RUDOLPH AND PRINCESS
i STEPHANIE OF AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY.
'1‘.I.H. I‘IIJIGRAND DUKES SERGIUS PAUL AND
(.lONSTAN'I‘INE 0E RUSSIA.

' t

_‘_ 11 ._
H.I.H. PRINCE HENRY OF PRUSSIA.
H.R.H. PRINCE FREDERICK CHARLES OF PRUSSIA.
H.H. ALEXANDER I. OF BULGARIA.
f H.R.H. PRINCE NAPLES OF ITALY.
H.R.H. HUSSAM EL SULTANA OF PERSIA.
H.M. MILAN OF SERVIA- ~ I

‘ A~HMED ALI BEY. THF MARQUIS TOWNSHEND.
ISMAEL BEY. THE EARL OF LATHOM.
ABDULLA FIKRI PASHA. VISCOUNT FALMOUTH.»

H.H. NAWAB ALI KHAN. LORD AND LADY SEMPILL.
H.E. BARON BLANC, Italian Ambassador to Turkey.
SIR EDWARD B. MALET. .
SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER.
H.R.H. NOAB GILAIN KHAN.
, ADMIRAI. SIR GEORGE WELLESLEY.
GENERAL GRANT (late President U. S. A. ).
MAJOR GENERAL SIR JOHN McNEIL.
.&c. ' &c. » a &c.
In proof of the estimation in which Mr. Howard is held,
the following amongst other honours have been conferred on

him: r——- \
CHEVALIER OF THE GOLD CROWN OF AUSTRIA.

By H.I.R.M. Francis Joseph 1., Emperor of Austria.
. KNIGHT OR THE ORDER OF THE CROWN OF ITALY.
By H. I. R.M. Humbert 1., King of Italy.

g About July, 1894, a Second EditiOn of “Baedeker’s‘
Guide to Palestine and Syria,” was published in‘ England. In
. (the reference tothe Hotel accommodation at Jaffa, Mr. HOWARD
was described as an Arab, his Hotel was placed last in‘a list classed

 

--III——

as second-class Hotels and it was suggested that with the land- '
lords of these it was desirable to bargain. Immediately these
allegations came to Mr. HOWARD’s knowledge he obtained from

the British Consul atJaffa (Mr. HOWARD [being a British subject) \

a Declaration that the ’above statements were untrue, and he.
sent this, together with a copy of his own‘ book, “ Howard’s

J:

t

i ' ‘Guide to Palestine,” to Mr. BAEDEKER, at Leipsig, and asked.

that the grave errors that had been made should be rectified.
Mr. BAEDEKER, however, refused to make any correction, where-i

upon Mr. HOWARD came to London to consult Messrs. LEGGATT,

RUBINSTEIN & Co., his SolicitOrs there.
As Mr. BAEDEKER still refused any redress, an action was com-

I‘menced against Messrs. DULAU & Co., the publishers in England

of Baedeker’s Guides, for an Injunction to restrain the publication

and sale on the ground that the references to Mr. HOWARD and ‘ '

his Hotel were libels, and calculated to' do him serious injury in
this business. 7

The case was tried on the 7th August, 1895, before the Lord
, Chief Justice Of England and a Special Jury of 12 persons,

when Mr. HOWARD and a number of witnesses proved that the W i

statements complained of were, all untrue, that Mr. HOWARD ,
was not an Arab, that Howard’s Hotel was a first and not a
second—class Hotel, and that it was not necessary to bargain
* with him as the charges made by him were fair and reasOnable.

€<

 

 

;_,t.,ii'~.r1:W0 witnesSes were; called by the Defendant, only one of whom,
the compiler of the guide-bOOk and the author of the statements '-
gii'fhcomplained of, had beeniinside the Plaintiff’s Hotel and he only
\In the vestibUle for four or five minutes. The jury found that the
{9,1'Mdesc1'ipti'on'of the plaintiff and his business in Defendant’s book
ii Was nOt correct that it was derogatory to his business and was '-
‘ a libel,; and they gave the plaintiff £50 damages. The Judge-1 ‘
thereupon ADJUDGED that Mr. HOWARD was entitled to an-
: INJUNCTION, and he directed the Defendants to ply the
costs of the action in addition to the damages.

"MI“. BAEDEKER Instead of rectifying the
am» he has been moved to have comm/tted
“_‘H'5Wards HoteI” from hIs IIst of/tote/s at Jana
_ fWi\S<Iatttl§Ift/de~//J anew/7:0 pIofesses t0 aI'In at
pflov/dingltna VBHGI‘S with full and content-inform-
atIon needs no comment. “
August 895

 

.1

EE NEEEE ENEEE.

PALESTINE, 01‘ The Holy Land (Geographical Description, &C. ) 3

' J afi‘a 0r Yafa (Flst01 y, Present Condition, &C. ) . . 5
J me, to J erusalem—direct route . . . . . 16
Excursions from J afl‘a . . . . . . 31
J aim wet the Bethérons, to Jerusalem " . . p , . 32
Jerusalem (History. Geographical PositiOn, Present Condition,

&C.) . . . p . . . '. 39
Objects of Interest in Jerusalem . . . . . 59
Outside the Walls . ‘ . . 7 I
Excursions from J erusalem—returmng the same day . 79
Excursmns from Jerusalem—Spending one or two nights

away . . . . . . I to
List of Good Hotels 1n the East . . j. ' . . . . ho
Testimonials, 81C. . . . . . . . 12‘2

 

ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF PLACES TO BE

 

VISITED, &C.
A PAGE ,1 PAGE

Absalom, The Pillar of . 83 Artuf . . . . . . . . 25"“;
Moyssinian Church . . . 56 B
Aceldama (The Field of g Bab (’1 Wad (0} Gate 0f the

Blood) . . . . . 93 ' Valley) , . . 21
Acre, St. Jean (1’ . . . . 31 EBaldwih, The castle of . 110
Ain Jalo, or Yalo ., 29, 109 . Beeroth ' ' ‘ ' 37’ 109
Ain Karim ' . . 107 Be1t N uba (or Castellum
Ain Sultan (or Elisha’s Arnaldi) ' ' ' 20

Spring) ' . _ _ . 115 Beth Dagon (or Beit Dejan)
Ain Trabi . . . . .119 ' 17 24; 32
Ai . . 109 Bethany . . .0. 79, 81
Ajalon, The Valley of. . Te 139th“ - - - - - 379 109
.Aksa Mosqtg, E1 . . . 63 E 3:232:23“ P001 0f .2?
Amwas (or icopolis) . . 20 1 Bethlehem . . . .. . 100
Anathoth ‘ ‘ ° ' ' 109 1 Bethorons, Nether and
Arch, The Ecce Homo 52, 53 Upper . . . . . 35
Ashdod . . .. . . . 31 1 Beth Shemesh . . . . 25

Ashkelon (or Ascalan) . 31 5 Bittir .. . . . . , . 27

d

--136——

C
PAGE
Beit Safafa ., . . . . 29
Brook Cherith, The . . 115
Brook Kedron, The 79, 91, 94

C

Caiaphafsé, The House of p. 71
Carmel, Mount . . . 31

Castellum Arnaldi (or Beih.
Nuha)......20
Castellum Perigrinorum . 31
Castle of Baldwin, The . 1170
Cave of Adullam, 99, 113
, Cave of Machpelah The 31, 112
Cavern of Zedekiah, The . 77

.rCaesarea . . . . 31
Chapel of Scourging, The 52
Cherith, The Brook . .115

Christian 8 treet(Jerusalem) 50
‘ Churches, Monasteries, Syna-
gOgues, etc. in Jerusalem.

53, 58
Cotton Caverns . . . 76
. . ,D
Damascus Gate, The (J e-
rusalem) 38, 47

' David’s Street Jerusalem 49, 50
David‘s Well (Bethlehemf 99
David, The Tomb of (Mount

Zion). . . . . 72
Dead Sea, The. . . .\116
Deir Aban. 25, 26
Dome of the Rock, the (or

Ktbbet es Sakhra—The

Mosque of Omar) . . 59,61
,Dragon, Well, The . 89, 90
Dung Gate, The . . 48, 60
Ebal, Mount [The Mount of

Cursing] . . ' . . 110

EcceZHomo Arch, The 52. 53
El Ferdus (Paradise) 94, 113

 

PAGE
ElAksa Mosque . . . 63

Elisha’ s Spring (Jericho). 115
Emmaus 22

Engedi, City of. . . . 118
Etam ' . . . 113'
Engedi. Wilderness of . 118
En Rogel (or Job’s Well) . 91
Enshemesh, The Waters of 115

Evil COunsel, The Hill of 93

t

F

Ferdus El (Paradise) 94, 113
Feshka . . .- . . . . 119
Field of, Blood, The [Acel-

damaj , . . . . 93
Field of Peas, The . i. . 98
Field of the Shepherds, 105
Fountain of the Virgin,
(or St Mary’s'Well) . . 88
Fountain E1 Kas . . . 64
Frank Mountain, The (or

the Herodium) . . . 113

Gr

Garden of Gethsemane, The

83

.Gates of Jerusalem, The '47 *
Gaza . . . . . . . 31
Geha . . . . .109
Geographical position of

Jerusalem . . . 44
Gerizim, Mount [The Mount

of Blessing] . . . .110
Gethsemane. The Garden of 83
Gibeah‘of Saul . 38, 110
GihOn . . . .- . . . 78
Giloh.. 1....9’98
Gimso . . . . 34
Golden Gate The, Jeru-

salem. 47, 48
Golgotha 51, 75

Grotto of Jeremiah. . 51, 76

o
—. 137 —
PAGE . PAGE
Grotto, The Women’s [Bethf ' K o

‘lehemJ . .11. . . .104

II

‘Haram Esh Shereef, El . 59
Hebron . . . . 31, 112
Helena, Tomb of .,‘ . . 74

Hermon, Mount . . . 110.

Herodium, The [or Frank’s
Mountain]. 1. ‘. ,. . 113

Herod’s Gate [Jerusalem] 47

Hill of Evil Counsel, The 93

Hills of, Samaria . . . 31
Hinnom, The Valley of the
Son of -. . . . . . 92

Hippicus, The Tower of . 53
Holy Rock,,The . . 62, 63
Hotels, Hospices and Hospiq
tals etc., of Jerusalem . 44
Hotels in the East, List of
Good . . . 120
House of Caiaphas, The . 71
House of Mary and

Martha, The . . . . 82
House of Pontius Pilate, 53
J 1

Jacob’s Well . . . . . 110

Jaffa. . , 5
J alo or Yalo, Village of 20, 29
Jalo or Yalo, Ain . 29, 109
J ehoshaphat, The Tomb of 84‘
i ,, The Valley of 84
‘ Jeremiah, The Grotto of 51, 76
Jericho . . . 114,115,118
Jews in Je1usa1em, The Con-
dition of . . .. . 55
Jews, Wailing Place of the 55
Job’ 5 Well [near Beit

Nuba] . . . . . 21
J obs Well, [01' En Rogel] 91
Je1usalem . ' - . ' . 39

 

 

Jordan, The River . . . 116
Judgment Seat of Solomon 65
Kabur-el- Yehud [or the
Tombs of the Jews] . . 34
Kalrubeh, Wady e1 ' ' . 100
Kedron, The Brook . ' 79
Kedron, The Upper Valley of

‘ [or wady el Jos] 75, 79,91, 94

Kefr, Ana [or 0110] . . 33

Kirj ath -Jearim . . . . 21
Kolonieh ., . . . 23, 108
Khureitun . . . . . , 113
. L . ‘
Latroon . . . . . . '19

Lazarus, The Tomb of . 82
Leaf, The Well. of the . 64
Lower Pool of Gihon,The 78, 88

Lower Pool of Siloam. . 90
Lyddafor Lod] ; . . .. 33
' M

Maccabees, The Royal
Tombs of the . ., . 34
Machpelah, The Cave of 31, 112

MarElias. '. . . ... 97
Mar Saba .. . . .94, 111
Michmash . . . . .109 '
Midyeh . . 34
Mizpeh for Nebby Samwil,
1,,‘01 Shiloh). . .‘ .I . 37

Monastery of the Cross . 106

Mosque of Omar. The . ' 59

Mountains of .Gibeon . ' 81

., - Gilead ‘ . . 38

,, Judea .‘ . 16

,, 1 Moab 38, 80, 117
Mountain-Frank (01' Hero-

dium) . . . ‘. . . 113

Mountain-Quarantania . 118

Mount Carmel . '. . . 31

O

-—-138-—-

.PAGE

Mount Ebal ., . . . . 110

,, ' Gerizim. . . . 110

,, Harmon. ’ . . 110

,, Moriah . . 50, 59

,, ‘ Nebo . . .' ,3 117
MOun't of Olives . . 38, 79
Mount of Scandal or

., Offence .~ . . 85

,, Scopus . 80, 110

,, Zion . 50, 51, 71
Muristan (\Iad House, or St.

John s House) . . . 68

- N

Na aneh . . . . 24
Nablous (or Shechem) 31, 110
Nativity, The Church of the 101
Nebby Moussa . . . . 117
Nebby Samwil (or Mizpeh,

or Shiloh) . , . 36, 37
Nether Bethor‘on, The . 35
Nicopolis (or Amwas) . 20

Ofience, The Mount of Sean-
dal or . . . . . 85
Olives, Mount of .1 . 38, 79
0mm, The Mosque of (or
Dome of the Rock] . 59
0110 [or Kefi’ Ana] . . 33
Ophel . . . “" 87
0ph1ah . . '. . 37, 109

P

Petra . . . . . 119
Pilla1 of Absalom. The . 83
Pontius Pilate, The House

of . . . 52, 53
Pontins Pilate, The Judg-

ment of Hall . . . 52
Pool of Bethesda. The . 52

,, Gihon. The Upper 78
Pool of G ihon, The Lower 30, 88

 

PAGE
Siloam, The Upper, 90 ‘
,, . ,,. .vThe Lower 90
Pools of Solomon, The 112
Population of Jerusalem 49
, . v
Quadrangle, The Russian 77, 78
Quarantainia Mountain, 118
Quarries of Solomon , . . 76
1 ~. R
Rachel’s Tomb . . . 99
Ramah of Benjamin , . 37

97

Ramleh . . . 18
Religious (Churches. etc.)

in Jerusalem . ., . . 53
Rimmon, . . . . 109
River, Crocodile . . . 31
River Jordan, . 1'16, 117

Rock,.The Holy . . 62. 63
Roses, The Valley of . 109
Royal, Families, TestimOni-
als from . . . . . 1‘22
Russian Quadrangle The 77, 78
S ,

Scopus, Mount ,. . 80, 110
Sepulchre, The Holy . . 66
Sar’a a ., . . '26

Sharon. The Plain of , 16, 32
Shechem [or Nahlous] 31,110
Shephelds The FieldoFthe 105
Shiloh [or Mizpeh,or Nebhy
Samwil] . . . . 36, 37
Siloam, or Siloah. The Up-
per Pool of. A. . . . . 90
Siloam, or Siloah, The
Lower Pool of . . 71, 90
Siloam, or Siloah, or Silwan,
‘The Village of . . 72. 83
Solomon’s Judgment Seat- 65
Solomon‘s Temple, The
Siteof,.,...59

1

PAGE

Solomon, The Pools of 112
Solomon, The Tombs of David
and . . . . . . 72
Solomon Quarries of . . 76
St. John’s House(or the
Muristan) . . . . 68
St. Jean (1’ Acre . . .331
St. Marys Well (or The
F ountain of the Virgin) 88
Streets of Jerusalem, The 49
St. Stephen’s Gate 48, 52
Subterranean Jerusalem 76
T
Tantur, The Austrian
HOSpital of . . . 57, 98
Temple of Solomon, The
Site of the . . . . 59
Testimonials from Royal
Families . . . . 122
Tomb of Lazarus, The . 82
,,* Rachel, The . . 99
,, Jehoshaphat . . 84
,, St. James. . . . 84
., the Virgin, The . 82
Tombs of David and Solo-
mon, The . . . 72
Tombs of the Judges, The 74
,, of the Kings, The , 72
,, of the Maccabees,’1‘he 34
Tower of Hippicus, The . 53
‘9

Upper Bethoron, The . . 35
Upper Pool of Gihon, The 78
Upper Pool of Siloam, The 90
Upper Valley of the Kedron.

79, 91, 94

Usdum . . . . . . 91
' V

Valley of Achor . , L . 115

,, Ajalon . ,. . . 19

Giants . . . . 97

37

 

_ PAGE

Valley the Son of Hinnom 92

,, Jehoshaphat ~. . 84

,, Jordan . . . . 4

,, Kedron, The Upper 75

,, Rephaim . . . 97

,, Roses . . . . 109

,, the Tyropoeon . 50

Via Dolorosa, The . . 52

Virgin, The Fountain of the 88

,, Tomb of the' . . 82

W

Wady e1 Kharrubeh . . 100

Wad es Surar . . . . 25
Wady e1 Werd (Valley of

Roses) . . . . . . 109

Wailing Place of the Jews 55

Walls of Jerusalem, The . 46

Waters of Enshemesh, . 115

Well,‘ David’s . . . ._ 99

Jacob's , , . . 110

Job’s (near Beit

Nuba) . . 21

Job’s (En Rogel) 91

St. Mary’s . . 88

H

‘7

9,

"

‘ Wilderness of Engedi,The 118

,, of Judea, The 81
Women’s Grotto, The . 104

Y
Yafa (or Jafia) Gate, The 47
Yafa (or J afia), The Seaport

of Jerusalem . . . 5
Yalo, Ain 20, 109
Yalo (or Jalo), The

Village of . . . . 20
Yebna . ,' , , ., 3|
Yemenites , , , , 92

Z .
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INDEPENIENT AND INTERNATIONAL TOURS.

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GHEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD

Contractor for Syrian and Eastern Travel,

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JAFFA. AND JERUSALEM.

@HEVALIER ALEXANDER HOWARD has the largest stock
of tents, horses, mules, saddles, provisions, dragomen,
- and all other requisites for travelling in the East, and IS
leady at all times to convey tourists to all parts of Syria
and Palestine. starting from J afia 01 any other place. any
day, and with any number of travellers. The greatest
comfo1t and special advantages guaranteed. Carriages
always ready £01 the journey from Jafia to Je1usalem,
Jericho, Hebron,.Bethlehe1n etc. etc.
CHEVALIER HOWARD’S s'repiesentative with his large and
safe sho1e boats meet every steame1, and have “HOWARD”
embroidered on the cap and breasts of his men. '

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