E

A

ilittureggue mum

. A ALONG „
T H E R H I N E,
FROM
_MENTZ TO COLOGNE:

ILLUSTRATIONS OF‘ THE SCENES OF REMARKABLE EVENTS,

AND

‚OF POPULAR TRADITIONS.

&

BY
BARON J. J. VON GERNING.

EMBELLISHED WITH
TWENTY-FOUR HIGHLY FINISHED AND COLOURED ENGRAVINGS,
From the Drawings of M. SCHUETZ;

AND ACCOMPANIED BY A MAP.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN
By JOHN BLACK.

LONDON :

" PUBLISHED BY R. ACKERMANN, 101, STRAND;
AND SOLD BY THE PRINCIPAL BOOKSELLERS IN THE UNITED KINGDOM.

rmxun BY L. HARRISON, 373, STRAND.

 

M.Dccc.xx.

 

 

TO

$$$ Majesty @‘eurge the fourth,

KING OF THE UNITED KINGDOM OF GREAT BRITAIN
AND IRELAND,

AND OF HANOVER.
SIRE, '
THE kind condescension which I had the happiness

of witnessing in your Majesty two years ago, when an honourable
mission introduced me into your august presence, emboldened me to
solicit your Majesty’s gracious permission to dedicate to you the De-
scription of a Country, the constant scene of remarkable events, from
the times of the Celts and Romans, down to our own; in which an
attempt has been made, to illustrate circumstances not destitute of
interest to the natives of Old England.

Many events have connected together the two countries. Richard
of Cornwall was chosen Emperor of the Germans, and he selected

on the Rhine the most beautiful lady of Germany as the partner of

his throne; and, on the other hand, the fair Isabella of England was

here united, amidst the most splendid preparations, to the Emperor
Frederic II. At an earlier period, Matilda, the daughter of Henry I.
of England, was the Empress of Henry V. of Germany.

William III. who secured the Church and State of Britain, was
descended from the German House of Nassau on the Rhine.

A beloved Sister of your Majesty, whose hand was obtained by a
distinguished Warrior and Prince of the heroic family of the Catti, now

resides in the vicinity of the Rhine, Where she is held in universal

honour.

4.0

@@

l; b D 8 © l.
"R 7% G41?“
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vi

Cartwright, Rev. E. London.
Cazenove, ]. Esq.jun. London.
Chappell, Mr. London, 3 copies.
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Webster, J. Esq.
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Kinnersley, Miss, Clough Hall
.Spode, J. Esq. the Mount.
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Liverpool.
Christopher and Jennett, Messrs.
Stockton.
Clarke, J. Mr. Hull.
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Clive, the Hon. Colonel.
Colnaghi and Co. Messrs. London
3 copies.
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3 copies.

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Foxlowe‚ Rev. Mr. Stavely.

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LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. .

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vii

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2 copies.

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2 copies.
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viii

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LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

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Washborn and Son, Messrs. ,
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Watkins, I. B. Mr. Hereford.
Webber, —, Esq. Dublin.
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Berks.
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Wetton, Mr. Chertsey.
Wheelhouse and Göodacre, Messrs.
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We] 5, H. Esq. ditto
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Hardwicke, Major-General.
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Glendining, Mr.
Whittaker, Mr. Shefi‘ield.
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Davidson, Capt. William.
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burgh ' 2 copies.
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Edinburgh.

Johnstone, I. R. Esq.

Wilson, Mr. Hull 2 copies.
Heankrien, -—-, Esq. ditto.

VVillan, Mr. E. Liverpool.

Williams, Mr. Cheltenham.

Wilton, Mr. Portsea.

Wilkins and Youngman, Messrs.

Norwich.

Wilkie, Mr. T. London.

Wilson, Mr. ditto.

Winter, Mr. ditto.

Winchester, Mr. London, 1 copy,
for R. A. Nelson, Esq.

Wood, Mr. 1. Kingston.

\Volstenholme, Mr. York.

Wood, Mr. Canterbury.

Wright, Mr. London 3 copies.
Goodwin, C. Esq. Lynn.
Goodwin, G. Esq. Camberwell
Parker, N. Esq. Walton-on-

Thames. '

York, his Grace the Archbishop of

Youngman, Mr. Witham 3 copies.
Du Cane, Mrs. ditto.

Du Cane, Miss. ditto.
Zanetti and Agnew, Messrs. Man-
chester 14 copies.
Coates, Mrs.
Colin, —‚ Esq.
Fleming, —-, Esq.
Hulme, Dr.
Heathly, W. Esq.
Novelli, ——, Esq.
Peel, T. Esq.
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Robinson, —, Esq.
Ridgway, Joshua, Esq.
Thomson, —, Esq.
Wolf, —, Esq.
Wilson, -—, Esq.
Weber, —, Esq.

PREFACE BY THE TRANSLATOR.

 

THE rank which the Rhine holds among the great rivers of Europe, and the beauty
and fertility of most of the countries through which it flows, must be well known to
almost every description of readers. From the time of Caesar to the present day,
this noble stream has occupied a large portion of the page of history. Its genial
banks were early the abode of learning, art, and industry; and nearly all the great
wars of modern Europe have been carried on in its vicinity.

. Some parts of this river are of course moreiinteresting than others. In its earlier
.course through Switzerland, it is comparatively overlooked amidst the stupendous
grandeur of alpine scenery. In the lower part of Germany again, and the king-
dom of the Netherlands, it no longer possesses its former romantic beauties. » It is
in that part of it which is called the Middle Rhine, or the course from Mentz to
Cologne, where this noble river appears to the greatest advantage. The beauty and
sublimity of this portion of the Rhine, exhibiting in varied succession every de-
scription of scenery, from the wildest mountains, rocky precipices, and hills
crowned by ancient castles, to vallies, vieing in sweetness and fertility with the
most favoured spots of Italy, attract to it every summer a multitude of travellers
from all parts of Europe.

A Description of this interesting part of the Rhine, accompanied by Views of
its most remarkable Scenes, has long been anxiously wished for by the public. The
present work has been undertaken with a view to gratify that wish. Of the manner
in which it is executed, the public will judge for themselves.

The author, from the rank which he holds among the literary men of _ his country,
the character of his studies, and his familiar acquaintance with the scenes be de-

.C

x PREFACE BY THE TRANSLATOR.

scribes, was eminently qualified for his undertaking. When Baron von Gerning
'visited this country as privy counsellor and envoy extraordinary from his Serene
Highness the Landgrave of Hesse-Homburg to the Court of Great Britain, an
account of his life and writings appeared in The Literary Gazette of the 23d May,
1818, to which we refer the reader. It may be sufficient to mentionxhere, that,
like the poet Göthe, he is of a magisterial family in the city of Frankfort—that he
pursued his studies principally at the University of Jena, where he resided in the
house of the great philologist Schiitz;—that he enjoyed the friendship of Heyne
(under whom he also studied at Göttingen), of Göthe, .Wieland, Herder, Voss, Böt-
tiger, Bertuch, and most of the distinguished literary characters of Germany;—
that, in conjunction with the Baron von Stein and the Prince of Hesse-Homburg,
he powerfully contributed to the restoration of liberty in his native city of Frankfort,
in 1813 ;—that he enjoys the confidence of his fellow-citizens, by whom the highest
civic honours were conferred on him;—and that he was elevated to the nobility
by the Emperor Francis in 1795, created a baron by the Grand-Duke of Hesse-
Darmstadt in 1818, and named by the Landgrave of Hesse-Homburg as his envoy
to-the diet of Frankfort. His Travels through Austria and Italy were published
in 1803, at the recommendation of Herder and Göthe; and various poems, given
to the world at different times, but more especially a poetical description of the
Taunus mountains, With their mineral springs, have been very favourably received.

M. von Gerning has viewed the banks of the Rhine with the eye of a man of
taste, a scholar, and an antiquary; indeed _he has considered his subject with refers
ence to almost every department, of knowledge. His account of the school of art
of Cologne will be more acceptable in this country than in his own; and his opinions
in disputed points of antiquarian research may probably be questioned by some: but
for all his opinions the baron is himself responsible, and not his translator.

It has been the object of the translator, not merely to translate the work, but to

supply, in the shape of notes, the elucidations which several subjects required,.to

PREFACE IBY ‘ THE TRANSLATOR. xi

render them intelligible to the English reader. There are words in all languages
which cannot be translated, and more in the German perhaps than in any other.
Besides, a German writing to Germans on subjects connected with the history and
antiquities of his own country, Will introduce many things without explanation, which
cannot, however, be understood without explanation by strangers. On this subject the
translator can hardly be considered a fair judge, but he flatters himself that he has
chosen the proper medium between encumbering the work with notes, and allowing
subjects of real difficulty to remain unexplained.

The ingenious Dr. Beaufort, in his Memoir of a Map of Ireland, gave an expla-
nation of some of the words which occur most frequently in composition in the
names of places in Ireland; and if his example were generally followed by travellers,
it would add very much to the interest and utility of their works. In travels in
Germany, such a glossary is peculiarly necessary. The names of most of the places
are expressive in the present language of the country; and to know the meaning of
the words of which such names are compounded, is, in most cases, to possess the best
description of them. The following are the words which occur most frequently in

composition in the present Tour:

Alt Old. Breit Broad. Eisen Iron.

Au and Aue A running stream, Brücke Bridge. Ehre Honour, as Ehren—
and also the val- Brunnen A spring. „ fels, Ehrenstein.
ley of such a Burg A fortified castle. Elnbogen Elbow.
stream; a mea- Donner Thunder, as Don- Erb Hereditary.
dow, an island. ' ner—berg (llIont- Falke A falcon.

Bach A brook. Tonnére.) ‚Faul Putrid.

Bad A bath. Dorf Village. Feld Field.

Berg A hill. Drachen Dragon. Fels Rock.

Blau Blue. Eber Boar. Feuer Fire.

Braun Brown. Eck Angle. Fuss — Foot.

02

'xii

Fürst
Gasse
Gau
Gebirg
Geis
Graf
Grau
Grenze
Hain
Haupt
Haus
Hecke
Heim
Hinter
Hirsch

' Hoch '

_ Hof
Hohe
Jung
Katze
Kette
Klein
Kochen
Kohl

König
Kreutz

Lan g

PREFACE BY THE TRANSLATOR.

Prince.

A street.
A district.
Mountain.
_Goat.
Count.
Grey.
Border.
Grove.
Head.
House.
Hedge.

Home.

Hinder, behind.

Stag.
High.
Court.
Height.
Young.
Cat.
Chain.
Small.
To boil.

Charcoal,Stein-kohl,

coal.
Kin g.
Cross.

Long.

Liebe
Loch
Löw
Luft
Markt
Mauer
Maus
Meyer

. Mittel

Mühl.
Nach
Neu
Nieder
Noth
Ober
Pfad
Pferd
Pfort
Poppel
Rabe
Rebe
Reich

Roth

Rücken

' Love.

Hole.
Lion.

Air.

Market.

Wall.

Mouse.

Farmer, peasant.

“Middle.

Mill.

After.

New.

Lower.

Need.

Upper.

Path.

Horse.

Gate.

Poplar.

Raven.

Branch of a vine.

Dominion, as Kai-
ser - reich, em-
pire; König-reich,
kingdom.

Red.

Back.

ERRATA.

Page 48, in the ninth line, for “ 1653,” read “ 1673.”

Saal
Salz
Sauer
Scharf
Schön
Schwarz
Sonne
Stadt
Stahl
Statt
Stein
Thal
Theuer
Thurm
Thor
Tief
Un ter
Vogel
Vor
Vorder
Wachholder
Wald
Weiss
Wiese
Winkel
Wurtzel

Zaun

Page 168, in the last line of the text, dele the word! “ craftily obtained.”

A hall.
Salt.
Acid.
Sharp.
Beautiful.
Black.
Sun.
Town.
Steel.
Place.
Stone, or rock.
Valley.
Dean.
Tower.
Gate.

Deep.

Under.

Bird.

Before. _
Before
Juniper.
Wood, forest.
White.
Meadow.
Corner.

Root.

Hedge.

PREFACE OF THE AUTHOR.

 

THOUGH Italy and Rhenish Germany, the most beautiful and
interesting countries of Europe, have already been often and exten-
sively described, the subject is yet far from exhausted. The author
of the following work has been therefore induced to attempt a succinct
Description of the Banks of the Rhine from Mentz to Cologne, and
of the Bathing-Places of Wiesbaden and Embs, with a View chiefly
to the information of travellers of cultivated minds, who may be
induced to visit this interesting portion of Germany. He wished
to be neither superficial nor prolix, but to afl'ord to men of learning
and taste, something more than mere entertainment, which is not
always to be found in the works hitherto published on this subject.
An historical description of the Burgs along the Rhine, respecting
which travellers have so often been embarrassed, is incorporated into
the work ; and the popular traditions connected with a country already
sufficiently poetical to be able to dispense with the colouring of ro-
mance, have been subjected to the test of history, and stripped of the
additions the original form has received from the hand of time. The
reader will probably be better pleased with historical truth, than With

a Rhenish theogony.

xiv PREFACE OF THE AUTHOR.

Many things which now appear in an easy dress, are not so easily
investigated and discovered; but in subjects of this nature, antiquity
and history, nature and art, elevate the mind and improve‘the heart.

The most remarkable private collections are mentioned in notes, for
they frequently change owners.

Other subjects were only noticed in so far as they might be introdu-
ced in good society, or excursions of pleasure; although in an agreeable
road, it may not always beveasy to keep within due limits, On the
principal river of Germany, and- its inspiring banks, now liberated
from foreign oppression, navigation and" mental intercourse ought to be
perfectly free. For the liberties in which the author has occasionally
indulged, but which he trusts have never exceeded the bounds of
propriety,ihe hopes he shall be forgiven, as well as for" his Protest-

antism with respect to the productions of art of the middle ages.

CONTENTS.

WIESBADEN . . .

The Springs and Baths of Wiesbaden

Interesting Objects in Wiesbaden and its
Environs . .

The Medical Palace ‘

Sonnenberg . . . .

The Table-Land .
Biebrich . .
Schierstein . . .
Schlangenbad . .
Environs of Schlangenbad .
Schwalbach . . .

The Country round Schwalbach

Weilbach .

Mentz . .

Objects in Mentz deserving of notice

‘The Passage down the Rhine to Rüdesheim
The Rheingau

The J ohannesberg .

Nieder- Ingelheim . . .
Rüdesheim . . . .
The Niederwald . .

. Bingen

The Passage down the Rhine to Coblentz .
The Burgs on the Rhine between Bingen

and Coblentz.—Klopp

Ehrenfels .
Vautsberg

Reichenstein . . .

Faulkenburg . . . .

Soneck, or Saneck .

Heimburg

F uersteneck and Nollingen .. .

Kammerberg

Rheinberg

pAgE
1
8

11
14
16
17
18
19
20
22
23
25
26
27
33
40
4-3
56
60
63
68
70
75

82
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
ib.
91

 

F uerstenberg . . , .

Sareck . . .

Sauerburg, or Surburg . .

Heppenheft . .

Staleck . . .

Stalberg . .

Gutenfels . . . .

Schoenberg . .

Rieneck, or Rheineck . .

New Katzenelnbogen, or the Katze

Rheinfels, or Rinfels

Thurmberg, or the Mouse

Reichenberg . .

Liebenstein and Sterrenberg, or the Brothers

Liebeneck . .

Marxbnrg

Philippsburg

Rheinberg

Stolzenfels . . . .

Lahneck . . . .

General Observations .

Coblentz . . . .

Neuwied . . . .

The Places where Julius Caesar crossed the
Rhine . . . .

Passage down the Rhine to Bonn

Cologne

Old Paintings in Cologne

Remarkable Objects of Cologne

APPENDIX.
Account of Embs . .
Environs of Embs . .
The Burg of Nassau . . .
Explanation of the Map . . .

PAGE
92
93
ab.
94
95
96
97

, 98
100
ab.
ab.
101
102

104-
ab.
106
z'b.
ib.
ib.
108
112
118

121
126
137
147
149

161
165
168
172

toooqmcn-izlen

p.-
O

11.
12.
13.
14-.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.

25. Map of the Course of the Rhine from Mentz to Cologne .

LIST OF PLATES.

 

. MENTZ, from the Influx of the Maine into the Rhine .

. The Johannesberg .

. The Town of Bingen . . . . . .

. The Mice-Tower

. The Castle of Fürstenberg .
.Bacharach—.............‚
. Pfalz Castle and Town of Kaub .

. The Town- of Oberwesel

. Thurmberg

Liebenstein..............
Braubach . .

The Church of Johannes, at the Influx ‚of the Lahn
St. Goarshausen, St. Goar, and Rheinfels
Salmon-Fishery at Lurley
Bornhofen..........
Boppard..............
Coblentz and the Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein
Andernach and Neuwied

Engers and Sayn . . .

Hammerstein

Drachenfels and Rolandseck

Godesberg and the Seven Hills

Cologne

. Biebrich, the Summer Residence of the Dukes of Nassau .

to face page 27
40

56

. . . 70
75

92

96

98

100

102

104

105

108

109

110

to face the title, or page 111

117
125
126
129

132

A

TOUR ALONG THE RHIN E,

FROM

MENTZ TO COLOGNE,

&c. &c.

 

WIESBADEN.

Seyd gegrüsset am Rhein, O rühmliche Quellen des TAust
Welchen die Vorzeit schon fromme Gelübde geweiht.
WXSBADA winkel: zuerst, wo- Söhne der Katten und Römer

Einst Genesung geschöpft, quillet noch heilende Kraft.

All hail, ye springs of Rhenish TAURUS, famed
In every age! To you antiquity

Made many a holy vow. And first,

WxsnAnA meets the view, whose healing powers
Romans and Catti often proved of old; '

Whose waters still expel disease and pain.

THE short journey from Frankfort to Wiesbaden by Höchst, and along the newly
constructed Nassau causeway from Hattersheim, by which two posts may be passed
in four hours, is extremely pleasant. The eye of the traveller dwells with delight
on a picturesque range of mountains, the sides of which are adorned with old castles
and inviting habitations. From the heights of Erbenheim, the glorious valley of the
Rhine opens to our View; and at the foot of a mountain, where Nature appears, in
her grandest style, and with all the luxuriant fulness of the south, embosomed'
amidst charming hills and swelling meadows, Wiesbaden smiles on the approaching

stranger.

B

2 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

This bath, the first in Germany, and the only one of its kind, is justly cele-
brated for its healing virtues, and very much frequented. No European kingdom
can boast of possessing its equal. Even Pisa in Italy yields to Wiesbaden. Its boiling
fountains are the strOngest and hottest of all the known muriatic springs. The
Romans, who were allies of the Mattiaci, had recourse to it during their campaigns
against the Northern Germans, and transmitted its ancient fame to posterity.
Pliny says of it: ‘f Sunt et Mattiaci in Germania fontes calidi, quorum haustus
“ triduo fervet, circa margines vero pumicem feriunt aquaa.” (The Mattiacian
fountains in Germany are also warm; the water drawn from them retains its heat
for three days; and pumice-stone is formed round the margins).

These springs and warm baths may even at an earlier period have been frequented
by the surrounding Ubii and Usipetes; and hence perhaps the ancient names of
Usbz'um _and Wz'sbz'um. The appellation .Mattcna/r, .Mattenbac/z, or Wiesenbad, may be
derived from the W'z'csent/zal*. Though Wiesbaden, properly so called, might not be
then in existence, there can be no doubt that these baths, according to the Roman
principle, Latona, communis mus aquarum ‚cs/, belonged to the whole tribe of the
Mattiaci, whose capital was Mattium, now Maden, near Fritzlar. Ptolemy men-
tions a Mattiacum, which has been supposed to be Wiesbaden. Drusus constructed
a castle or fort and fortified camp here; and Tiberius probably erected Roman
thermre, or baths. Traces of them were first discovered twenty years ago in the
present Schijtzenhofe, when the walls by which they were inclosed were found, with
aqueducts, pipes, and architectural remains; and a votive stone, containing the words-b

“ APOLLINI TOVTIORIGI,”

* Wiesen signifies meadow in German; thai, valley; bad, bath; and bach, brook. As the names
of places in Germany are generally significant in the language of the country, a list of such German
words as occur most frequently in the composition of these names, with the corresponding English words,

has been subjoined to the Preface—Trans.

1- The whole inscription is as follows: “ In H. D. D. Apollini Tovtiorigi. L. Marinius Marinianus,

“ ;) Leg. VII. Gem. P. F. ex. aff. D. D. D. Fortunae.,voti. compos.”

WIESBADEN. ' ' 3

from Centurio Marinianus of the 7th legion; The word Tovtz'orz'gz' should un-
doubtedly be Teutiorigz', and denotes Apollo, the Teutonic god of baths. The
inscription on another German stone, discovered at Hornburg in Alsace, about eighty
years ago, “ APOLLINI GRANNO' MOGOUNO.

“ LICINIUS TIRo. D.AS.D."

also implies, that this Licinius* returned thanks to the Grannian or Germanic
Apollo of the Maine, for his recovery. Votive stones of a similar nature were also
consecratedto Hercules, Jupiter, and Juno.

The vault, which is still in good preservation, comprehending a hot or vapour
bath ( lacom'cum calz'darz'um), and a tepz‘darz'um-f, or tepid bathing-room, connected
with it, was discovered last year near the Brodel fountain, in the newly built bathing-
house and hotel of what was formerly called the White Lion, but which is now
appropriately called the Roman bath. Other traces of Roman, perhaps Carolin—
gian, vapour-baths, of a later period, were found in the saalgasse, where the royal

palace stood.

.

The Mattiaci, as allies of the Romans, were acquainted with luxury and culti-

vation, and drank wine. They also carried on a trade in soap-balls: of their own

* Not the Licinius whom Horace has immortalized in one of theimost beautiful of his ethical odes
(Book ii. Ode IO.) ; but probably the person of that name who was proconsul, under Augustus Caesar, in
Gaul, who distinguished himself by the contributions be exacted, and who might well require the benefit
of the waters of Wiesbaden and Aix—la-Chapelle.

+ The former is 10 feet 9 inches (11 feet g inch English) in length, and 6 feet 5 inches (6 feet 7 inches
English) in breadth; but the latter is 50 feet (51 feet 5 inches English) in length, and 30 feet (30 feet 10
inches English) in breadth. Many things found there, such as urns and bones, stone bathing-seats, stones
of the 14th and 22d legions, a comb, a cupping-vessel and a covering of rosin for warts or boils, stones
with inscriptions, and old pictures from the church of the suppressed monastery of the Capuchins at
Bornhofen, are to be seen in the castle. '

]: The manufacture of Mattiacian soap has been lately revived, through the efforts of Dr. Pretz, a

physician and chemist belonging to this bath.

B2

:«J.L „&

4 ' TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

manufacture, and light-coloured German hair, as we learn from Martial (L. xiv.

Ep. 26 and 27.):

Crines Sapo.
Caustica Teutonicos accendit spuma capillos,

Captivis poteris cultior esse comis.
And also,

Si mutare paras longaavos cana capillos,

Accipe Mattiacas, quo tibi calva, pilas.

A stone dug up within the bounds of the village of Bierstadt, or Birgstatt, near
Wiesbaden, with the inscription, “ DEO MERCURIO NUNDINATORI,” and built into
the walls of the town-house, upwards of fifty years ago, has also a reference to this
trade*.

The brave Mattiaci, whose alliance the Romans rendered subservient to the re-
cruitment of their armies under the command of Claudius Civilis, with the Batavi,
Catti, and Usipii, laid siege to Mentz, then a Roman town, in the time of Vespa-
sian.—(TACITUS.H. L. iv. C. 37.) They still possessed Wiesbaden in the war of the
Allemanni, whose king, Macrian, was surprised by Valentinian from Mentz, in the
year 371, while taking the benefit of these baths. He was conveyed to the Buccino-
bantes, but soon revenged himself on his deceitful enemies. The surrounding territory
on the right banks of the Maine and the Rhine, with Caste], which was then a civz'las
Alattiacorum, was in consequence solemnly ceded to him by the RomanS.—-(AMMIANUS
MARCELLINUS, L. xxix. C. 4. et L. xxx. C. 3.)

In the time of the Salian Franks, we find “ Wisibadun” the capital of its par-
ticular kings-hundred (lcum'gesundra, curzzgz'sszzrzdei'OIz). There was also in this place a
royal court (curtis regz'a, sala}, the revenues of which devolved to the burng of Cofestein

' * ‚In an ancient Roman bath like this, one would wish to see the strigilis, or bathing-brush used by the
Romans, again introduced. This might give rise to a new branch of trade, and effect an improvement in
the mode of treating the skin.

+ A burg is the fortified residence of a prince, count, or lord, in the possession of various rights of

sovereignty. A number of these burgs are still in existence in Germany, but they are usually called

”,0,“ . im"??? „ . _

WIESBADENL 5

(Costheim), and it was situated in the Saalgasse, which has received its name from it.
Charlemagne, who was a great traveller, occasionally left his Ingelheim, to enjoy
the bath of this place. The Greek Emperor Theobald (or Baldwin) made his ap-
pearance here in the year 1939. The German Emperors, Otho the Great, Adolphus,
and Joseph II. and in 1745, the victor at Dettingen, King George II. of England,
were fond of the residence of Wiesbaden.

It is uncertain whether Otho the Great ever visited this bathing-place: about
the year 965, however, he conferred on it its municipal and other privileges. But
the gaugraves’" of the kings-hundred resided here down to the eleventh century.

The Counts of Nassau, who were even then powerful, possessed Wiesbaden in
the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. VValram, the first of these counts, died in
1198; and his grandsons, Walram II. and his brother Otho, sons of Henry the Rich,
from whom the W'alramian and Othonian lines were descended, divided between them
the lands on both sides of the Lahn. It was destroyed by Gottfried von Eppenstein
in 1280, on which occasion the royal palace was burnt down. The town, however,

was soon after rebuilt, under Count Adolphus, who became emperor in 1292, and

schlösser; and the former word is only employed in general when speaking of the burgs of the middle ages.
Schloss means also a fortified residence; but there is this difi'erence between the two, that though the seats
both of the higher nobility and the common noblesse are called schlb’sser, the seat of one of the common
noblesse is not called a burg. As in English the only word for a fortified residence that I am acquainted
with, is castle, I shall, in order to preserve the distinction in the original, retain the German word burg,
and translate schloss into castle.—Trans.

* Gaugraf, from gau, a district, and graf, which formerly, like the Anglo-Saxon gerqfa, signified a
judge, or other person appointed to an ofiice of authority. A gaugraf was a rural judge, for the decision
of causes requiring despa-tch, and whose jurisdiction ceased when the grqf (count), or markgraf (mar-
grave or marquis), was present. The office is not now in existence in Germany, but it seems to have
been nearly the same as that of baron-baillie in Scotland. It may not be amiss to observe, that, among
the Scots, the word greave still means a person having authority from another, from the steward of an
estate down to a labourer who has a charge over his fellow-labourers. In England, reere has nearly the

same signification in borough-reeva—Trans. .

6 . TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.‘

who elevated Wiesbaden to the rank of a town”? properly so called. After his death
in 1298, the tovVn, along with its fortified burg, was reduced by the Emperor Albert
of Austria. When Gerlach, the son of Adolphus, attacked the Imperial party of
Frederic of Austria, Louis the Bavarian laid siege to Wiesbaden, in 1318. This
Gerlach, in 1346, divided the lands of Nassau between his two sons, Adolphus I].
and John, the founders of the Wiesbaden, Idstein, and Weilburg lines. The Saar—
brück line was founded in the same manner in 1629, and shortly afterwards the.
Usingen line. So earl-y as 1366, the Emperor Charles IV. conferred the princely
dignity on the above Count John, who, however, made no use of it; but Count,
George Augustus, who possessed an ardent love for the sciences (born in 1666 at
Idstein, in old times the Salian Etechenstein), and who distinguished himself by his
heroism in the war with the Turks, received a confirmation of this dignity from the
Emperor Leopold I. in 1688. This ruler, endowed with a most princely soul, com-
pleted the new castle begun by Count John Louis in 1596, enlarged and embellished
Wiesbaden, built the charming princely residence at Biebrich, founded Georgenborn,
and in every respect proved himself a pious and upright prince, and the benefactor
of his improving dominions. :
Walram III. the son of Adolphus II. whom we have already mentioned, built
the castle of Walramstein (also called Walrabenstein), and founded the Union of the
Lion (Lb'uenbzmd) at Wiesbaden, in 1379, with the view of putting down the system

of lawless violence {fimstrcchH-j which then prevailed.

* Stadt in German means properly a place surrounded with walls and gates, and enjoying particular
privileges, and is applied to all towns coming within that description, of whatever magnitude. I have
here translated itinto town, which is less limited in its signification than city or borough, and may be ap-
plied to every collection of buildings above the dimensions of a. village—«Trans.

+ Faustrecht means what we, by a Gallicism, call the law of the strongest. But this would hardly seem a
fair account of the origin of this union; for historians ascribe motives of a. less impartial nature to its
founders. Schmidt tells us, that the Emperor Wenceslas having pledged to Duke Leopold of Austria the

prefecture of Upper and Lower Swabia, with the towns of Augsburg and Giengen, for 40,000 Florentine

WIESBADEN. . ‘- . ‘ 7

In 1469, Count Otho of Solms, in a feud, gained possession of the town and
castle of Wiesbaden. In 1474, the Emperor Frederic III. repaired to it, for the
purpose of entering into a reconciliation with Charles Duke of Burgundy. The year
1547 was an unfortunate year for Wiesbaden, from a dreadful conflagration, in which
many documents were consumed. In the Thirty Years war, this place sulfered
severely. The Spaniards, Bavarians, and Croatians distinguished themselves more
particularly in the work of destruction, not even sparing churches, bathing-houses,
or the hot springs. This asylum for valetudinarians was at length almost entirely
desolated. In the French war of 1672 it was again a sufferer, from the savage soldiery
of Montecuculli. In the more recent wars of the Empire, Wiesbaden was more
fortunate, and the late revolutions have been highly advantageous to it. It is now
animated by five thousand inhabitants, and by the presence of thousands of strangers
who resort to its baths; and as the capital and seat of government of the most im-
portant duchy of Germany, and one which contains its fairest and most memorable
fields, it has been improved by new buildings and pleasure-grounds; It possesses
also institutions (though yet partly incomplete), which will remain a lasting monument
of fame to the country and its ruler, through whose exalted stem the branch of

Walram now blooms with luxuriant freshness.

golden guldens, this‘unjustifiable measure immediately led to the union of thirty-two Imperial towns with
the Counts Palatine of the Rhine, the Duke of Bavaria, and the Margrave of Baden, for the purpose of
defeating it, and of assisting and defending each other against violence and injustice; and that the remain-
ing nobility (who always envied the wealth and flourishing condition of the towns, which, confident in their
strength, now began to attack and to pull down the castles of the nobles, as receptacles of robbers and
worthless persons,) entered into similar confederations on their part against the towns, one of which confe-
derations was this Leonine Union. Those who are acquainted with the history of that period, know that the
nobles then considered themselves entitled to rob (raubrecht) on the highways; and they no doubt viewed
the measures adopted by the towns to prevent and punish robbery, as an encroachment on their just
rights and privileges. It would he therefore perhaps more correct to say, that the founders of the Leonine

Union wished to check the violence of their adversaries, and to give free scope to their own—Trans.

8 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Urbs celebris, praeclara situ, Wisbadia. dicta
Non procul a Rheno distat et urbe Mogi.
Antiquis ea nota fuit scriptoribus, et nunc
Thermis Mattiacis claret ubique suis.

VENATOR.

SPRINGS AND BATHS.

Kochend sprudelt der Born, aus tiefen vulkanischen Kl'uften

Wo du Leben beginnt, hunt die Natur sich in Nacht.

The fountain pours its boiling stream from deep
Vulcanian caves; for nature veils the source

Of life in night.

The waters of Wiesbaden are of particular benefit in cases of settled gout and
rheumatism, in all sorts of cutaneous diseases, and those which ‘proceed from the use
of mercury; in stifl'nesses of the joints: and cold tumors, in apoplexy and paralysis;
and lastly, they are peculiarly serviceable in healing the consequences of dangerous
gun-shot wounds. They are, however, better adapted to age, than to fiery and full-
blooded youth, for Whom Embs or Schlangenbad is more suitable. They are even
injurious to persons whose nerves are affected, and as Lehr (in his Description of
Wiesbaden) justly observes, in all diseases occasioned by relaxation of the solids and
dissolution of the fluids.

There is every year a conflux of patients to this place from most of the countries
of Europe: still however, notwithstanding this mixture of ranks and nations, the
prevailing style of living is simple and without luxury, and such as suits people who
wish to recover from their diseases, and not to aggravate them. Here more espe-
cially the infirm may by bathing! become healthy, and the healthy by bathing

become diseased: let excess therefore be guarded against; for

WIESBADEN. . 9

Bäder und Lieb und Wein sind oft dem Bedilrftigen heilsam,
Und so schädlich sind auch: Bäder und Liebe und Wein!

For baths and love and wine can often heal;
Yet danger lurks in baths and love and wine.

Besides the Brühbrunnen, Wiesbaden has four principal and eleven secondary
springs, of various degrees of heat. ' The hottest spring,ithe Koch or Brodelbrunnen,
reaches 151, the Adlerquelle or the Golden Fountain 140, and the Schiitzenhofquelle
117 degrees of Fahrenheit. The last-mentioned spring (as has been shewn by Hufe-
land, our Bath-Esculapius,) contains more iron than the others, and is consequently
more beneficial in many diseases. The following are the principal bathing-houses:
The Schützenhofi of which the water is communicated to the common bath: in
this vapourless noble hall there are thirty-three spacious baths :-—the Eagle, furnished
in like manner with well-frequented baths, and the water of which it communicates
to its neighbour, the Bearz—the Rose, with new bathing-halls and apartments fitted
up With baths :—the Flower, close to the Kochbrunnen,‘ and opposite to the Roman
bath, lately built in the new style :—the Black He-Goat, where there was formerly a
horse-bath :——and the newly built English Court, formerly the Ox-Foot. Besides these,
there are about twenty bathing-houses, with an hospital-bath and two Jewish baths.
The .water is conveyed to them by aqueducts, and there are other bubbling fountains
concealed under-ground. The fresh-water springs even contain particles of a saline
nature in the very highest parts of the town, and in its immediate environs; and ,
there is a sulphureous putrid spring close to the walls of the town.

The principal ingredients of the hot springs of Wiesbaden are, carbonate of lime
and magnesia, muriate of soda, muriate of lime and magnesia, sulphate of soda,
and acetate of lime; and then clay and iron in solution with carbonate of soda. But
the most remarkable peculiarity in the water is, the high temperature of the warmth
in which it bursts forth, whereby several of the ingredients separate from each other as
it gradually cools in the air. This mineral water has a somewhat disagreeable taste,

C

IO 'TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

and when drunk, it occasionally produces diarrhoea; [but it is of great efficacy in
hemorrhoidal complaints and diseases of the kidneys; and as it retains its properties
for a long time, it is frequently transmitted to other places. . In the summer of 1817
there were eleven thousand strangers here; but in this number, servants and passing
travellers'are usually included: two thirds, however, were bathing visitors.

In 1740, Triller sung of Wiesbaden and its vicinity:

Am Fuss, wo sich in breite Höhen
Der altberühmte Taunus streckt,
Sieht man das Wunderbad entstehen,
Das so viel Furcht als Lust erweckt.
Lust, weil man es mit Nutz gebrauchet,
Indem es lindert, heilt und wärmt;
Furcht aber, weil es ‚wallt und rauchet,

Und unaufhörlich schäumt und lärmt.

Hier wollte Drusus gerne wohnen,
Hier legt’er Thor und Vestung an,
Hier lagen seine Legionen ;
Hier hat Licin die Kur gethan.
Man findet noch viel Ueberscliriften,
Die von den Römern Meldung thun ;
Auch werden in versteckten Grüften

Hierum noch manche Römer ruh’n.

Was hemmt dem Ackersmann die Pferde?
Weswegen steht und stockt sein Pflug?
Er wundert sich, sticht in die Erde
Und findet einen Todtenkrug;
Den wirft er hin—als er zerbrochen
Ruft eine hohle Stimm’ im Feld;
. Verschone meiner stiller Knochen,

Ich bin ein alter Römerheld !

WIESBADEN. 11

‘ “ At the foot of the wideospreading Taunus, .a mountain celebrated in ancient times, rises the won-
“ derful bath which excites so much dread and pleasure: pleasure, when properly used, from its power
“ to mitigate, to heal, andto warm; and dread, from its boiling, and smoking, and incessant foaming and
“ raving. Here Drusus- delighted to dwell; here be constructed a fort; here his'legions were quartered.
“ Here Licinius was restored to health. Many Roman inscriptions are still found here, and many Romans
“ still repose in their hidden graves. What arrests the horses of the ploughman? Why is his plough at a
“ stand? Astonished, he digs into the" earth, and finds an urn, which he throws from him. As it breaks,

“ a hollow voice is heard from the ground: ‘ Spare my silent bones, for I am an ancient Roman hero!’ ”

INTERESTING OBJECTS IN VVIESBADEN AND ITS ENVIRONS.

Alles umber haucht classischen Duft und das Land und die Quellen,

Jedes Gestein ist noch hoher Errinnerung Bild.

Where'er we turn our steps, by bill or vale,
Or bubbling spring, we breathe a classic air:

Each stone recalls the deeds of ages past.

Many ruins of former ages are to be seen in the town and its vicinity, and much

is still concealed in the bosom of the earth. The votive stone* already alluded to,
is preserved in the Schutzenhof, where the Roman thermze were also situated. The
massive wall of the city of the Mattiaci, known by the appellation of the Heathen
wall (of which a remnant is also to be seen in the Schellenberg garden), incloses a
part-of the church-yard, where the Romans had a storehouse for fuel; and the Hea-
then gate (Heidenthor), a tower inhabited by herdsmen, and considered Roman, is
in its vicinity. The Heathen hole (Heidenloch) was a stone-pit of the wood-covered

Heathen mountain (Heidenberg), or Neres mountain (Neresberg+); which is, however,

c.

* It is built into the wall of a stable, under which there are seven Roman baths in substructions,
that may occasion obstructions to the antiquary. A fragment of another stone, with an indistinct inscription
of the middle ages, is to be found at the principal fountain, where a few words in memory of the Emperor
Joseph II. may also be seen.

“l Berg in German signifies mountain; and it is proper the reader should bear this in mind, as he will

frequently find the word occurring in the composition of names.-Trans.

C2

12 TOUR ALONG THE'VRHINE.

but a gentle elevation compared With the heights of the ’Taunushin its vicinity, covered
with primitive oaks and beeches. The castrum of the Neros, constructed by Drusus
and Tiberius for the purpose of repelling the incursions of the ultramontane Ger-
mans, was undoubtedly situated here. The mouldering ruins of the central guard-
house, or pmtorium, with a number of burnt stones and a part of the ditch, are still
perceptible to a person conversant in subjects of this nature, whose’imagination can
supply what is necessary to connect the whole together. .
Above the vineyards on the other side, there are excavations and ditches in
a young fir—wood, as well as the remains of the walls of an old structure; which,
however, can hardly have been Roman, as no bricks or legionary stones were ever
found there. We have here a near and most beautiful view over the valley of
the Rhine. A hollow, with a pond on the eastern declivity, is called the Bear’s
Dance (Barentanz), and was the scene of a menagcrz'e, or vz'varz'zmz, in the middle ages.
A little wood adjoining receives the'appellation of the Pan, or rather Bann wood*.
and leads down to the Geisberg. In this sylvan sanctuary there are several weeping-
heeches, and a weeping-oak of a very rare description. An old wall, of which traces
are still observable here and there, runs from the Neresberg over the adjoining hills
to Sonnenberg. One of these hills is still called the King’s Chair, and it is'probable
that the Frankish district court of the [rings-hundred was here held by the Grqf in the
open air. The district of Kunz’gesundra, or la'ngs-hmzclred, besides this court of the
Graf, possessed also a centgei'iclzl+, a subordinate tribunal, at Wiesbaden, and another
at Mechtildshausen, which was first Carolingian, and afterwards belonged to the

" It may not be amiss to observe here, that almost all Germans give to () and ;) nearly the same
sound—Trans. >

+ Du Cange supposes centgraf, the judge of this tribunal, to be synonymous with centenarius, and calls
him judge of the hundred; but Schilter, with more reason, thinks he received his title from being placed
over ten hamlets. “ Satis constat,” he says, “ Zen! centam, non a Latino centum vel centena originem
“ ducere, sed a Germanico zehn, decem. Idemque est vetus vocabulum Saxonicum tethinge, compositum

“ ex te, ti, tiu, decem, et thing, placitum judicium.”—-Trans.

WIESBADEN. ' ' '13

house‘of Eppenstein (what is now called the Hafiserhof is the remains of it), and
was connected with the sala of this place. Graves of the Romans and Mattiaci are
to be seen in a solitary wood near the elegant structure called the Fasanerie (Phea-
santry), and the convent of Clarenthal, founded in 1296 by the Emperor Adolphus
and Imagina his wife, and now transformed into a farm-house (meyerhof’l‘); as
also higher up at the Hohlhecke, or Pohlhecke, which is surrounded by a moat
(perhaps the commencement of the Pfahlgrabenfl, on the heath of Dotzheim. On
the ridge of the mountain, near the Platte, the great and the little Rentmauer, with
Celtic or old German circumvallations, are to be seen beside the post-road. There
we find an elegant hunting-seat surrounded by new improvements, and a hospitable
forester’s house. At this spot there is a delightful view of the country between the
Rhine, the Maine, and the Neckar.

The inhabitants of Wiesbaden, and the strangers who repair to it for its baths,
make frequent excursions to the Geisbergi. On certain days they stroll through
the Nerosthal to a fulling-mill, distinguished for its social parties, close to the wood
of Clarenthal, called the Geiseck; or they proceed by retired paths along the banks
of a woodland stream, through the Adamsthal, to the secluded farm-house, or the

solitary wood-cutter’s hut in the wood on the hill§. Others again visit the splendid

" Over the principal door of this convent, which is furnished with towers and walls, the arms of Adol-
phus and Imagina in stone are still to be seen ; and in the new church belonging to the paper-mill, where
the cloister formerly stood, there is an image in stone of Imagina, between her daughter Adelheid and
Richardis, the sister of Adolphus, with the year 1335 inscribed on it.

+ A foss in Wetteravia, formerly defended by stakes or valli. It runs by Braubach on the Rhine,
through the districts of Reichenbach, Lauen-Schwalbach, and Raffenberg, to the Höhe mountains, to
the tower of Butschbach in the county of Solms, and to the Hessian castle of Merlau.—Trans.

“I Geiss in the Allemannish dialect, which prevails throughout Austria, Bavaria, Switzerland, Alsace,
Swabia, and F ranconia, signifies a goat; and Geisberg therefore means literally Goat mountain—Trans.

§ The circumvallated heights, or Rentmauern, the Schläferskopf (Sleeper’s-head), and Wehrsberg,
the Bleidenst'adterkopf and Gickelskopf, the Goldkuppel, and several other classical kuppels, are in the,

vicinity of this spot.

14‘ TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

structure for patients, with its elegant pleasure-walks; or take a pilgrimage to the
Sonnenberg, which is surrounded by grand and picturesque ruins, and to which the
distance is but short. Wherever we turn our steps, and Wherever we direct our, view,
we find some object deserving of our attention, and every thing smiles on and allures
the intelligent traveller. Willingly we hail the castle of Biebrich, connected with
Mosbach, which has all “the appearance of a fairy palace issuing from the bosom
of the, Rhine, and which, with its noble garden, and the new burg, containing old
monuments of the family of Nassau, forms altogether one of the most delightful
princely residences on the Rhine; and the hospitable Schierstein, the orchard of the

Rheingau, and the surrounding country, an English garden planned by‘Nature her-

self.

Regeres Leben ist hier am alten Rhein, es bewegt sich

Leicht und behende der Mensch, wie es erfodert sein Thun.

Along old Rhine a briskerlife prevails;

Nimbly and lightly moves each man you meet.

THE MEDICAL PALACE.

Pestums Hallen voll Pracht, von Marmorsiiulen getragen,

Baiii’s Reitze sind hier wonneberauschend vereint.

The splendid halls of Pastum, proudly borne
On marble columns, Baiac’s seductive charms,

United here, o’erpower the soul with joy.

This Medical Palace, over which taste has so eminently presided, and which, after
the lapse of a thousand years, may attract attention as a beautiful ruin, was built in
1809 and 1810, and now appears in full splendour. In the centemplation of this co-
lumned hall we feel ourselves transported to Greece or Italy.‘ ' All is simply beautiful,
in a noble antique style, and the outside more particularly. In the interior of the
medical hall there are some defects, but it is easier to censure than to improve them.

The hall into which we first enter is provided with booths, is 220 feet in length, and

WIESBADEN, ‘_ . . ' 15

is supported by six Ionic columns of sand-stone, and twenty-four smaller columns.
The principal and more central hall, which is' 130 feet in length, and 60 feet in
breadth, is adorned with twenty-four Corinthian columns, each of them 14 feet in
height, and from 14 to 17 inches thick, of variegated or shell marble, from the quar-
ries of Vilmar, near Selters*.' Four other large columns of the same description,
of which two are from one piece, sUpport the ducal hall, behind which there are two
elegant apartments. The stately tables are “of the same home marble. The painting
on the walls and ceilings, executed in an elegant style, is the Work of Heideloff, the
decoration-painter of VVeim'ar. This hall is embellished with new mirrors and
marbled walls, and with twenty-one copies of busts and statues in marble, by
Franzoni of Carrara. Among the statues, there is a beautiful copy of the Apollino,
executed at Rome, in Carrara marble, by C. F. Ghinard, for Vergennes, in 1787.

The first idea of this building originated with M. von VVolzogen of Weimar,
who died here while taking the waters, in‘lBOQ. Zais, a natiye of Wurtemberg, is
the architect of this splendid edifice, which might be considered an ornament to an
Imperial city; and though, when viewed in relation to Wiesbaden, it may appear
disproportionate, as has sometimes been observed; yet this objection vanishes when
we reflect on thevmedical importance of the place, and its classic situation, which
so eminently merits this honour. The following golden inscription over the prin-
cipal entrance is suitable, and though not exactly German, is characterized by an
antique simplicity: _

FONTIBUS MATTIACIS. M.DCCC.X.

Shady walks, with delightful shrubberies and pieces of water, in a space of thirty

acres, surround a spot doubly enchanting from art and natural beauty.

*‘ They cost 600 Louis d’ors; the four larger, ,150 Louis d’ors; the twenty-one statues, 1100 Louis
d’ors; 370 Louis d’ors were paid for the Apolliuo; and the expense of the whole building, erected by

a joint-stock company, was 125,000 florins.

„16 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

sonNENBERG.

A HALF an hour’s walk along a delightful road leads from the Medical Palace
to the Sonnenberg. We are surprised by the appearance of this burg in the
recess of a mountain vale. The story that a temple of the'Sun of the Mattiaci
stood here, and that Sunno, the son of an Allemannian prince, gave his name
to the place, has no more foundation in history, than another, that the Sonnen-
berg, a name occurring as early as the eleventh century, belonged to the Counts
of Nurings, a family long ago extinct. The Counts of Nassau possessed this burg
in the beginning of the thirteenth century. Towards the end of that century, the
burg was enlarged and fortified anew, in the Thuringian feud, by the Emperor
Adolphus of Nassau, more particularly against the neighbouring Lords of Eppen-
stein; and it was inhabited by himself, as well as by Louis von Sonnenberg, his
marschal/r’l‘ and lieutenant. Its picturesque ruins, adorned with buildings, terraces,
and seats of branches of trees, and with a dancing-ground, surround nearly the
whole village, which was formerly in the poSsession of various Imperial privileges+.
The inn, with gardens newly laid out, has frequent visitors from Wiesbaden. On the
height where the present church-yard is situated, stand the ruins of the old church;
and here we have one of the finest views over the wide-spreading vallies of the
Rhine, Maine, and Neckar, of the Nahe and Moselle, encircled by their wood—
crowned mountains, as well as over the swelling hills and vallies around. Sonnen-
berg has merely the appearance of a valley, the Neresberg of a wooded table-land,

the Geisberg seems to lie in a corn-field, and the solitary church of Rambach rises

* The word from which marshal is derived: mare signified horse, and schalck an administrator; and
marschalk was originally a person who had the care of twelve horses. It afterwards came to signify comes
stabuli, or master of the horse.—Trans.

+ In 1351, Charles IV. gave to this place municipal and market rights, similar to those possessed by

Mentz and Frankfort.

THE TABLE-LAND. 17

up picturesquely in the back-ground on the slope of the wood-covered Kellerkopf, or
K'ohlerkopf. The view from the old Wiesbaden watch-tower at Bierstadt is equally

delightful.

THE TABLE-LAND.

THE steep Taunus, which in former times belonged to the Buccinobantes, and over
which the road to Lemburg passes, is adorned by an elegant hunting-castle, gleaming
far and wide, built in 1776, and lately improved by theaddition of pleasure-grounds,
laid out in a beautiful style. Instead of the wood-cutter’s hut, the only habitation
to be found here formerly, there is now a forester’s house, in which travellers may be
accommodated. From the neighbouring wood-crowned heights, we have a view, at
once sublime and beautiful, over the splendid region between the Rhine, the Maine,
and the Neckar. The Trumpeter raises his head aloft close behind the Table-land.
According to fabulous tradition, this mountain received its name from a trumpeter,
who, when fallen upon by robbers, blew his horn so loud, that’ his friend heard him
on the bridge of Mentz, and was enabled to come to his assistance. But the deri-
vation from a branch of the Mattiaci, the pastoral Buccinobantes*, who, according
to Ammianus Marcellinus (L. xxix. C. 4.), inhabited a particular district, is more
antiquarian. In German they were perhaps called, even at a later period, Buch-
bantner+, or Buchhainer, as their mountains were mostly covered with beeches.

The herdsmen of this country still carry long carved horns of cherry-wood, on which

they blow their merry carols.

* It is hardly necessary to observe, that buccina is the Latin for a. shepherd’s harm—Trans.
+ Buch is the German for beech, and bunt is still used in composition, in the Netherlands, in the sig-

nification of a tract of country; as Brabant, formerly Brach-bant, Bursebant, &c.—Tram.

D

l8 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

BIEBRICH.

An was fiir einen Ort der Welt

Hat mich ein günstig Glück gefiihret?
Der so viel Schönes in sich hält,

Und so fiirtreflich ausgezicrct ?7
[st dieses Tibur, ist’s Tarent,
Das ein Horaz allein für Schön erkennt?
Sind hier die Tempe und Przeneste,
Und die Baianischen Paläste?
# * * * * # * * * #
0 Himmel! lass doch immeri‘ort

Diess Haus bey Nassau’s Stamme bleiben
Dass Fürst und Volk an diesen Ort

Des Sommers ihre Zeit vertreiben.

Traun-zn.

To what place has my good fortune conducted me-a place so distinguished for its beauties and its admirable ornaments? Is this

Tibur? Is it Tarentum, which alone Horace allows to be beautiful? Is this Tempe and Praeneste, and these the palaces of Baiaa?

............O Heavens! let this house remain for ever, with the race of Nassau, that prince and people may enjoy themselves in this

abode of summer!

BIEBRICH, formerly called Biburc, or By der Burgk (By the Burg), from the

neighbouring Amöneburg, is the most beautiful princely residence on the majestic

Rhine, where it is seen far and wide. The building of this charming palace was

begun above a hundred years ago, under Prince John, and completed by George
Augustus. Wiesbaden and Biebrich were celebrated by Triller in the second part
of his poems, published in 1737. The dining-hall, or the rundeel’“, round which
there runs a row of columns of home marble, rests on an arch over the chapel. The
extensive and beautiful garden has all the luxuriant fulness of the south, and is orna-
mented with various descriptions of pleasure-walks and pieces of water, both in the
old and new taste: it is partly surrounded by an earthen mound. The castle recently

* Rundeel, according to Fritsch, is the propugnaculum rotundum in old fortresses, and also a circle

built round by houses. Here the name is given to the hall from its round form—Trans.

SCHIERSTEIN. 19

built at the end of the garden by the late duke, on the site of the former burg of
Mosbach, contains many valuable monuments of the Nassau princes, a great pro-
portion of which were obtained from the chapel of the suppressed convent of Eber-
bach. On the Amöneburg above alluded to, between Biebrich and Castell, the
traces of a Roman castellum are still to be seen; and the second passage of Caesar over
the Rhine against the Suevi, as well as the passage of Agrippa against the Catti, to
Whom he relinquished this region after the Ubii had withdrawn from it, were in all

probability effected here.

SCHIERSTEIN.
WE proceed along the Rhine by a delightful road shaded by rows of fruit-trees,

from Biebrich to this pretty village, which in documents is called Scerstein. There
are several beautiful estates in this neighbourhood, which is the orchard of the
Rheingau, and from which fruit is exported to all the country round. A hot and
fiery wine is grown on the hills, especially in Hölle.

The castle of Nuremberg, or Noremberg, towers up in the vicinity; beneath which
are the castle of Gorother, and another old castle, called Armada, that formerly
belonged to the von Lindau family, and afterwards to the Counts of Leyenschen,
by oneof whom it was sold some years ago. The ruined tower, from its firmness,
was blown up with great difficulty. Further up, on a great quartz-rock, are the
ruins of the burg of F rauenstein (formerly a fief of the electorate of Mentz), at one
time in the possession of the family of the Marshals of Frauenstein (Marescalci de
Vrowinstein), long since extinct; and afterwards in the possession of the Fürstenberg
family, which removed from Mentz to Frankfort in the fifteenth century, and became
extinct there in 1527. We find traces of walls and fountains of great antiquity,
denoting the existence of habitations in former times, on the Krösel, a flat elevation
towards Wiesbaden. That these were places which Valentinian destroyed, on account

of the failure of his project to seize Macrian, is the opinion of antiquaries. From

D2

20 . TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

coins found in the vineyards of Schierstein, and other places on the right bank of
the Rhine, with the heads of Marcus Antonius the Triumvir, and his brother Lucius
Antonius, it has been inferred, that the former, along with Gaul, which he possessed
für twelve years, must also have had this part of the former territory of the Ubii, till
the arrival of Agrippa; a gap in history which the last book of Asinius Quatratus
would certainly fill up. At Schierstein there was also a Carolingian royal court.
There are documents of 1015 and 1040, which prove that the vine was then culti-
vated at this place, then named Schertistein, or Scherdistein.

Schierstein is conveniently situated for excursions in the upper part of the Rhein-
gau, as Oesterich and Rüdesheim are for excursions in the middle and lower parts.

The right of keeping wine-stores has been communicated to Schierstein.

SCHLANGENBAD.

’ Selber die Scheidekunst kann deine verborgene Heilkraft

Nicht ergründen—es band nimmer den Aether der Kunst.

Thy healing powers lie far beyond the reach
Of chemic art; for art could never hold

Ether within its grasp .

THIS watering-place is situated in a romantic valley, watered by winding brooks,
inclosed‘ by wood-covered heights, in the midst of ‘the Taunus mountains, and in a
spot which, from its retirement, might be chosen for a convent. The road to it
through Schierstein and Neudorf is easier than the one over the steep Hohewurtzeli
The bath, the only one ‚of its kind, is peculiarly beneficial in nervous afl‘ections, and
was discovered above two hundred years ago, from the circumstance of a diseased
cow having been recovered by it. _

In 1657, Dr. GIOrin from Worms purchased the springs, with a piece of ground

around them, and the necessary wood for building, from the commune of Berstatt,

SCHLANGENBAD. 21

for two nimm-* of wine; and then allowed the villagers the free useof the bath in the
one-story house whichhe erected. As the place was in the dominions of Hesse-
Cassel, it soon became Hessian property; and the present bathing-house was built
in 1694 by the Landgrave Charles. The buildings were gradually enlarged, and
there has been laid out on them, and the various improvements of the grounds, about
400,000 florins. The crystaline soap-water was supposed to contain only alkaline
clay and lime; but to recent chemical analysis, it yields muriate of soda and mu-
riate of lime, which were discovered by oxalate of soda: it may therefore—be with
justice called the purest alkaline bath. Töplitz, Pfeffers, and Mochingen are nearly
of the same description, and produce the same effects. It flows lukewarm from 21
to 22 degrees of Reaumur, or from 82 to 84 of Fahrenheit, out of rich rocky foun-
tains. By the continued use of it, the dried and shrivelled skin is softened and
strengthened; and thus it gives to old age the properties of youth. It is still more
favourable to persons of middle age, and to youth, especially of the female sex:
their tender skin, by its use, becomes still more tender and white. ’

A covered way connects the house formerly belonging to the Electors of Mentz,
which was built in 1701, with, the old Hessian structure. Here, surrounded by
rose-bushes, we find the three fountains, which throw up 3500 ohms+ of water in
twenty-four hours; and twelve spacious baths, six small and six large, one of them
a shower-bath: three of them are faced round. with porcelain, and one with marble.
There are six other baths, not yet in a state to be used, in the new house, which is still
unfinished. This light and delicate water is also beneficial as a beverage to persons
with weak lungs, though it has not a mineral taste. The linen which has been
washed in it resembles the driven snow. On an average of ten years, Schlangenbad
has not yielded fifty florins of net revenue, without including the expense of the
architectural improvements. The wood for heating the baths costs almost one third

* An ohm contains 38 gallons—Trans.

+ 133,000 Gallons—Trans.

22 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

more than what they usually bring in. But institutions of this nature are of im-
portance not merely in a financial point of view, but also with reference to suffering
humanity; and in protecting and upholding them, their princely benefactors erect
permanent monuments to themselves.

Schlangenbad, with Schwalbach and the lower county of Katzenelnbogen, now
belongs to the beautiful duchy of Nassau, which, by this acquisition, has received

the wished-for rounding, and which will promote the improvement and prosperity of

\

this place.

ENVIRONS OF SCHLANGENBAD.

In good weather, and in company or alone, this place, which has often proved
favourable to lovers, is a most delightful residence. We climb the neighbouring
Ko'seley or Musenberg without difficulty. The flat height of the village of Barstatt,
which lies in a basin, and the steeper height of Georgborn, are visited on foot, or on
the backs of horses or asses. At the last-mentioned place more particularly, where
the nearest road to Wiesbaden runs through'the wood along the hills of Schlangenbad,
there is an astonishingly sublime view of the course of the Rhine, Maine, Neckar,
Nahe, and Moselle‚ and their various ranges of mountains: yet the View from the
little chapel of Rauenthal over a more limited tract, and the charming Rheingau
stretching out beneath it, is still more beautiful and lively. If we proceed to the right,
beside the village, the richly adorned chain of mountains, with the wood-covered
heights in front of them, wound round with narrow dells, and their declivities, which
are cultivated with difficulty, present to us a most fascinating picture of nature.

The most agreeable pilgrimage for the patients of Schlangenbad is that which
leads to the little chapel on the hill of Babenhauser, or Bubenhauser. Here there is
one of the most beautiful views of the Rheingau, the luxuriant splendour of which
forms a strong contrast with the dark back-ground of the neighbouring mountains.

In this view we have an admirable combination of the sublime and the beautiful;

SCHWALBACH. ”23
the present and the past seem to vie with each other in furnishing the most delightful
pictures. Between Rauenthal and Kiedrich, in the western part of a broad hill called
the Himmelrech, covered with primitive oaks, ruins with Runic ornaments were dis-
covered, which are called the Old Burg. Some persons are disposed to conjecture,
that the Germans, in their incursions into Gaul, passed through this ravine; and that
there must have been a Sylvan temple here, in which they offered up sacrifices to
their gods before crossing the Rhine. According to tradition, the passage was effected
between Elfeld and Heidenfahrt; and many graves, still to be seen in the Sandfeld
on the opposite bank, would seem to have reference to it. The old Germans wor-
shipped their gods chiefly at salt-springs, of which there are some in the valley of
Kiedrich, and from which the Salzbach, that flows towards Elfeld or Eltville, derives
its name.

It is also supposed that the above burg must have belonged to some noble family
of the Rheingau now extinct, and more particularly to the family of von Scharfen-
stein, of which the branches were numerous, and whose original burg raises aloft its
picturesque ruins above Kiedrich, at a short distance from the spot in question, that

still preserves the name.

SCHWALBACH.

Hier im geschweifeten Thal, umkränzt von goldenen Saathöh’u

Windet sich Schwalbach lang hiu, mit den Brunnen voll Kraft.

Here in a. winding vale, inclosed by hills
O’erspread with golden grain, meandering glides

The lovely Schwalbach, with its potent springs.

THE distance from Schlangenbad to this place is two short leagues. A cooler
air blows here, as it lies in an oblong valley, on the northern fall of the Taunus.
Schwalbach belonged to the quarter of Hessen-Rothenburg, and to the district

called, from the slaty surface of its mountains, the Blue Land. The Elector of

24 ' TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Mentz formerly possessed a criminal jurisdiction over the fifteen communes of this
district; but the family of Nassau, which by suitable exchanges acquired the whole
of the lower county 0f Katzenelnbogen, formerly belonging to Hesse, in full sove-
reignty, succeeded to the jurisdiction in question in 1803. This district is rich in
chalybeate springs, of which Langen-Schwalbach alone has fourteen: the Wein-
brunnen and Stahlbrunnen are the most distinguished. It is probable that theformer
may have first been used by the Usipeti and Romans. It is still the private property
of a family of Schwalbach. It was fitted up anew in 1694, and it yields nine ohms’“
of water every hour. The annual exportation amounts to between 250,000 and
300,000 pitchers. The Stahlborn was first discovered in 1740, and since that time
it has grown into vogue. The annual exportation from it is between 40 and 50,000
pitchers. When drunk at the brisk spring, it is a strengthening cordial, though not
for weak lungs. I nvalids pay particular homage to it and the pleasure-walks around;
but it is advisable, 'in a remedial point of view, rather to visit it in the afternoon,
and to select the VVeinbrunnen for the morning.

The ingredients of these springs are, carbonic acid, mur‘iate of soda, carbonate
of soda, lime, magnesia, and steel, or rather iron.

People walk to the Ehebrunnen merely, without using it. The Röthelborn,
or Rumpelborn, in the Wiesenthal, is productive of peculiar effects. For bathing
in wooden vessels, a preference is given to the waters of the Brodelbrunnen, which
are of a more alkaline nature, mixed with those of the Weinbrunnen.

During the bathing season, almost every house is inhabited by strangers. The
Goldene Brunnen (Golden Well) and the Kette are good hotels; and the medical
building, with its alleys, its large ball-room and dining-room, and its shady walks

between rows of beeches, is peculiarly agreeable.

* 34-2 Gallons—Trans.

SCHWALBACH. .‘25

THE COUNTRY ROUND SCHWALBACH.

A romantic walk along the stream which glides through the valley that stretches
out from this place, leads us to the little village of Adolphseck, on the rocky corner
of the Aar, where the few ruins of the burg excite old and new feelings in the visitor’s
breast. There is a considerable waterfall at the mill. This burg was built by Ceunt
Adolphus of Nassau, afterwards King or Emperor of Germany, and, according to a
romantic tradition, in honour of Amalgunda, his mistress, whom he carried off from
the convent where she dressed his wounds. The Emperor Albert destroyed the burg
in the year 1302. It was rebuilt about the year 1631, and love is said to have again
induced a descendant of Adolphus to tenant it. The Roman trench runs past this
place and the Us-mill, and ascends the mountain of Born, where more extensive
traces of it are to be found, as well as at Kernel, which still has a pahl or pfizlzl strasse
(a palisaded road).

Hohenstein, situated on a mountain surrounded by the Wiesenthal, a deep glen
formed by the winding Aar, is of more importance than Adolphseck. This burg
was founded by the joint inheritors of the name of Hohenstein’“, and afterwards it
belonged in common to the old and new Counts of Katzenelnbogen, on the division
of the lands under Diether and Eberhard. From this rock there is a surprisingly
fine view of a picturesque country; and among the extensive ruins upon it, a gate,
the Witches’ Tower of live stories, the Torture-Chamber, the Ladies’ Hall, and
another apartment of which the walls are painted, are still remaining. Beside it
lives a forester, in whose house strangers may receive lodging and entertainment.

In returning from Schwalbach to the richly adorned valley of Wiesbaden, which
we- enter again with delight, we ascend the steepest mountain of the middle Taunus,

passing by the romantic valley which the Schlangenbad‘ forms in the side ground.

* Ganerben ihres Namens.-—-Gan-erben, a word of doubtful etymology, was in the middle ages chiefly
applied to a society of nobles, connected together by descent or otherwise, living in the same burg or

castle, which was common to all, for the sake of mutual aid and protection.—Trans.

E

26 TOUR. ALONG THE RHINE.

The name of the mountain to the left is Winterbuche, and to the right Hohewurzel;

and it offers to the astonished eye a grand view over the countries watered by the.
Maine and the Rhine.

WEILBACH.

Nymphe qunl Du fullst die Schwefelschale dem Weisen
Der dem edleren Ruhm Nächte geopfert und Ruh’.—
Wer in betäubender Fulle von Hochheims goldenen Trank sog,

Findet in Hochheim: Thal hier den versöhnenden Born.

WILXNA, kindly Nymph! thou to the sage
Whose days and nights a sacrifice to fame

Are offered up, fillest thy sulph’ry cup.

He whom the juice of Hochheim* has seduced
To riotous excess, will find in Hochheim’s vale

An all-atoning fountain.

THIS medicinal spring, surrounded by poplars, is situated beside the village of
the same name, in a meadow between Hattersheim and Hochheim on the Maine,
two leagues from Wiesbaden, and three from Mentz. It was long known by the
name of Faulborn, and only resorted to by the people of the vicinity in cases of
hernia. They used it externally and internally, washing with it the parts af-
fected, and also drinking it. In 1783, the electoral government of Mentz first took
the abandoned Nymph under its protection; but the troubles of war arrested the suc—
cessful progress of its beneficial endeavours.

In 1809, this well was repaired by order of the Duke of Nassau, and it now
yields about 40,000 pitchers per annum. Its water to many drinkers does not taste
disagreeably, especially when mixed with wine. According to the chemical exami-
nation of Creve, its ingredients are sulphurized hydrogen gas, carbonic acid gas,

lime, magnesia, soda, and sulphur. In the last-mentioned ingredient it is still

* Hock derives its name from Hochheim—Trans.

 

 

 

 

 

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MENTZ. * 27

stronger than the sulphureous springs of Aix-la-Chapelle and Nenndorf. When per-.

" sons have been poisoned by lead, copper, or arsenic, it may be beneficially taken as

an antidote; and it is found of service in diseases originating in the excessive use of
mercury. Moreover, it is taken for acids in the stomach, stoppages of the bowels,
and weaknesses of the lungs, and in hernias and herpetic eruptions; it is also a so-
bering drink after an excess in wine. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood are
allowed to receive the water without any duty, but only in vessels of a peculiar con-
struction, to prevent smuggling.

There is another sulphureous spring at Diedenbergen, a short distance from this

_ place, but it is less strong; and at Nierenstein, on the opposite bank of the Rhine,

there is a third, which for more than fifteen years has been found an efficacious me-
dicine, and is also the subject of exportation: in like manner, it may not be with-

out its use as a corrective of the efl‘ects resulting from the excessive use of the nectar

of that’place.

 

MENTZ.

Rhenum et Germania: deos in adspectu.

TACI'I‘US.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW.

MENTZ, taken from the influx of the Maine into the Rhine, below Kostheim. The cathedral and

other buildings are reflected in the Rhine; and to the left, beside the citadel, the Eichelstein is still

visible. The bridge of boats, the charming castle of Biebrich, and part of the mountains of the Rheingau,

appear in the back-ground.

THIS celebrated town, in the heart of the country, in the midst of the lovely
Rhine, at the influx of the Maine (Magon, Mogounus), the boundary line between
the north and the south of Germany, from which it has received the old and new-

E 2

28 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

4

names of Magonz, or Magontia, and Mentzi", is joyfully hailed by the German
traveller, who sees it again restored to his native land, and freed, he hopes for ever,
from the grasp of foreign ambition. Its situation has always been highly extolled,
and may well bear a comparison with that of Naples or Constantinople.

The delightful Rhine is also the boundary between the south and the north of
Europe. No stream is so deeply interesting in an historical point of view, and the
regions through which it flows have all the charm of the vallies of Italy. Time has
in both written the book of nature and humanity in large characters, and preserved
it for posterity. A capital section of this book belongs to Mentz.

This station, on the frontiers of ancient Germany and Celtic Gaul, ‘ of the coun-
try of the Mediomatrici and of the Vangiones or Wonnegauers, is highly memorable
in history. It was undoubtedly founded by the Celts dwelling on the Rhine; and
the word Alag, which signifies an inhabited place, favours this opinion.

At this place Ariovistus first crossed the Rhine, to humble the Gauls; and though
Magetobria might not be here, yet there must have been a Magontobriga+. Caesar
and Agrippa, Drusus, Tiberius, and Germanicus, Diocletian, Trajan, and Hadrian,
Probus and Commodus, Julian and Valentinian, also crossed the Rhine at this place,
to attack the Suevi, Catti, and Allemanni, who abhorred submission to the Roman
yoke.- I

Agrippa, a prudent general and politician, first drew a line of circumvallation
round the Celtic Magonz, where Caesar probably was encamped, and then founded
the newly fortified Magontiacum, a stationary camp, which the restless Drusus en-
larged. It gradually became the capital of the Roman part of Upper Germany,

the Germania Prima, as Cologne was the capital of the Romanized Lower Ger—

* Others derive its name from the Celtic word Mag, with the addition of the brooks Ganz and Zey.
+ We learn from Caesar, that Ariovistus overthrew the Gauls at Amagetobria, or Magetobria.—Briga,
' in the Teutonic languages, and in the Celtic also according to Du Cange, signifies a bridge. This ex-

plains the meaning of the author in Magontobriga.-—Trans.

 

MENTZ. ‘ 29

many, or Germania Secunda. The Iron Mentz (Ferrea Moguntz'a} remained for three
centuries under the Roman emperors; and instead of subjugation, the knowledge
and culture of Rome, and at last Christianity, through the pious 29d legion and the
holy Crescens, who there died the death of a martyr, spread themselves from this
station over all Germany.

Till the end of the second century, Mentz was not a town, but merely a Roman
military station and depot. The civic monuments discovered here, and especially-
in Castell, do not reach further back than the beginning of the third century. Rando,
an All-emannian of an heroic race, surprised Mentz on a Christian festival; and after-
wards, in 406, during the disgraceful reign of the Emperor Honorius, it was destroyed,
in a most Vandal-like manner, by the furious Wends’“, under their leader Krock;
and in 451, it was dreadfully plundered by a horde of Huns of Etzel or Attila; who,
however, did not visit this place himself, but entered France by the Vosges.

Under Clilodowic, Mentz, which had been exposed to so many calamities, began
again to breathe. The Austrasians favoured it, and Dagobert I. King of the East
Franks, at the instigation of Bishop Ludwald, enlarged the newly built town by
additions towards the Rhine: whether the town then advanced to the brink of the
river, is not ascertained. Bishop Sigebert surrounded it with walls in 712. Soon
afterwards, it was raised to the rank of a holy city, more especially by Charlemagne,
and the first archbishop, Boniface or Winfried, the apostle of the Germans. Charle-
magne also built a palace here, and founded at the same time, on what was formerly
called the Marsberg, the Alban school (Albanschule), where a redoubt or bulwark
bearing that name still remains.

Thus, under the Carolingians, Mentz was the flower of cities. In a more ad-

* Wends, a people of Sclavonic race, who took possession of various tracts of country on the Baltic,
in Brandenburg, Misnia, Lusatia, and Bohemia, deserted by the Vandals and other Germanic tribes.
Remains of them were till lately (if they are not still) to be found in Lusatia and Lower Saxony, differing

from the neighbouring inhabitants in language and manners.-—Trans.

so TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

vanced period of the middle ages, it was called the Golden Mentz (Aurea Mogzmtia},
from the exemptions and privileges which were conferred on it by the Archbishops

Willigis, Adelbert, and Siegfried. The Emperors Henry IV. Frederic II. and

,

William of Holland, afterwards confirmed and enlarged this “ golden liberty,’ and

Mentz became the most fortunate free town on the Rhine. Under the above Em-
peror, or rather King William, Arnold Salmann the VValpode (Gewaltsbote), a
worthy and distinguished citizen and patrician of Mentz*, who, as advocatus potens
of the archbishop, exercised the criminal jurisdiction, in 1254 founded the celebrated
Rhenish Hansa, or the union of seventy towns—b for the protection of trade, the
model of the northern Hansa; though the first attempt to set on foot the latter was
made in 1241. Weaving had here a particular corporation, and flourished as early

as the eleventh century. Henry Frauenlobi, the minnesngcr§, and who was carried

* Quiddm validus civis in Moguntiä (v. Albertus Stadensis). His father was called Arnoldus I'Valpoclo
de alta domo, as heir of the patrician of that name, and is not to be confounded with Arnoldus Camera-
rius de Turri (von Thurn), who was town-treasurer of Mentz. The Rhenish histories and traditions,
which give to the founder of the union of the towns the/name of Arnold von Thurn, and make him pre-
sident of the Cammeral tribunal (Kammer-richter), are therefore so far incorrect. The family house of the
Salmanns in the Grafen-Gasse (now Greben-Gasse), the virus comz'fls, was called the “ Alden Walpoten.”
The office of Gewalts—bote was hereditary in this family.

1- The Rhenish electors, and several princes, counts, and lords, who held the right to rob (raub-
recht) in abhorrence, acceded to it. The confederation was concluded on the last day of June 1255,
according to King William’s charter of confirmation.

I Frauenlob in German signifies praise of women.———Trans.

§ Literally a singer of love. The minne-singers, or mirmesängers, were a description of poets in Ger-
many, who flourished chiefly in the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries, and whose productions
bear considerable resemblance to those of the Troubadours. It appears from an old document in Schilter,
under the article Bardus, that Henry Frauenlob at Mentz, doctor of theology, was one of “ the first
-“ twelve masters and poets of Germany, who recited their compositions at Pavia before the Emperor Otho I.
“ and Pope Leo VIII. with great applause; and who in consequence were honoured by these potentates

“ with a charter, and a golden crown, authorizing them to sing and diffuse their art throughout the whole

MENTZ. 3.1

to the grave by females in 1318, lived here; but of his name, country, and the
peculiar incidents of his life, nothing further is known.

Whether Berthold Schwarz of F reyburg, the wandering monk and alchymist, of
whom so many fabulous stories have been told, first invented gunpowder at Mentz
in 1380, is not so certain as that it was here first applied to guns.

Here, and not at Strasburg, {Henchin (John) Gensfleisch von Sorgenloch (whose
heart and mind were often full of care*), or Gudenberg, called Guten-Berg, of one
of the most ancient patrician families, about the year 1420 invented, without calling
himself an inventor+, the art which of all others has been attended with the most
important results; and here, with the pecuniary assistance merely of the rich and
avaricious goldsmith and founder, Fust or Faust, he printed the first books from
1440 to 1450. At a later period, after their separation, Peter Schoffer, from Gern—
heim, the family tutor and assistant of Faust, by whom the art was carried to per-
fection, prepared printing-ink, and substituted matrices or cast letters to the moveable
wooden letters formerly used by Gutenberg; and the Psalter, printed in this improved
manner, appeared with the names of Faust and Sch'offer in 1457. Gutenberg, who
as avpatrician could not belong to any incorporated trade, found afterwards a nobler

assistant in Henry Bechtermiinze, who continued to print at Mentz and Eltville.

“ Roman empire of the German nation.” In a number of towns of Germany, the poets were incorporated
in the manner of the different trades, and a sort of apprenticeship was served by them. On becoming a.
member of the incorporation, the poet was called a master-singer ( meister-sänger ). Frauenlob was pro-
perly a master-singer. Much has been written of late in Germany on the subject of minne-singers and
master-singers, and the attempt to draw the line of distinction between them has given rise to much

controversy.— Trans.

* Sorgenloch means literally hole of care. In the original there is here a play on the word sorge (care).
—Trans.

+ This fortunate invention had taken place at Mentz even before- the year 1424, when Gutenberg
repaired to Strasburg, where he carried on further experiments down to 1439. On this subject much

information is to be found in various works of Schöpflin and Köhler, Bodmann and Dahl.

32 ‘ TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Faust died of the plague at Paris-in 1466, and from 1467 Schöfl'er had no associate.
The envious transcribers called this business and its mysteries a “ devilish art;” and
this gave rise to the monkish fable of Dr. Faustus, the alchymist and necromancer,
and Mep/u'stop/wles, his assistant.
Arnold von Biirgel sung in praise of Gutenberg, Faust, and Peter Schöffer;
Et levi ligno sculpunt hi grammata prima
Qua: poterat variis quisque referre modis.

SCHBFFER sagax animi praeclara toreumata finxit

Qua: sanxit matris nomine posteritas.

In the bloody feuds which arose in 1462 between the Archbishops Adolphus II..
and Diether, when the former ordered the charters of Mentz to be burnt, and dis-
solved its corporations, several of the new printers travelled to Italy, as if they
wished as it were to repay what German cultivation owed to that country.

The “ holy chair” at Mentz was almost always well filled. Its electors and
archbishops had often the most decided influence in the election of emperors, and
on the affairs of all Germany. Bonifazius was the first archbishop :—Richolf planned
the Decretals, and thereby augmented the power of the church z—Raban, the scholar
of Alcuin, and a wonder for his age, was the first German theologian and gram-
marianz—Hatto I. administrator of the Empire under Louis the Child, and Hatto II.
who possessed a truly princely soul, founded the temporal dignity of the electoral
chair:—Willigis* gave laws and regulations to the electoral statez—Berthold von
Henneberg, in 1495, founded the Perpetual Peace and the Imperial Chamber, under
the Emperor Maximilian I.:——Albert von Brandenburg is celebrated as a friend of

German art and science;—and John Philip von Schönborn, equally beloved by Ca-

* This Willigis was not the son of a waggoner as is told of him, but a Saxon nobleman, “ nobilia „
" genere et meritis,” which was incorrectly copied humilis; and the credulity of Andreas Presbyter, as
legendary father, was thus enabled to produce one more monkish tale. The wheel in the arms of the

electorate of Mentz originated in a double archiepiscopal cross and the nimbus which surrounded it.

MENTZ; ' . 33

tholics’and Protestants, is distinguished in history as the prudent and politic promoter
of the peace of Westphalia, and a holder of the balance of Europe*. At length
came the tolerant Frederic von Erthal, the friend of science, endowed with a truly
princely mind, under whom a new golden Mentz+ arose, though it has since become
iron again: it must be owned, however, that some of his noble predecessors paved
the way for him. Under the present Rhenish-Hessian and purely liberal: govern-
ment, Mentz, as the principal fortress of the German federation, is triply defended
and tenfold fortified; and it has also been made a new staple and frontier station for
the collection of duties on the Rhine: but, alas! it will not soon become again a
beautiful and happy place of residence. ,

The left bank of the-Rhine, from its situation, has in all times been exposed to
emigrations and mixtures of people. Such events are often attended with advantages,
' though they are not without their evils also. We here see Austrians and Prussians
advance 'With a bold mien, in the consciousness of their last victories; and each, to

the serious Observer with German feelings, appears a hero.

 

OBJECTS DESERVING OF NOTICE.

’Mentz still preserves considerable fragments of many monuments of antiquity,
the middle ages, and modern times§. Of the Roman remains, we perceive towards

* These electors were always adding to and rounding'their possessions, even by'begging successions
and claims; as, for instance, in the cases of Eppenstein, Königstein, and Kronberg.

+ Mentz was then rich in native and foreign learned men; and it still possesses some who are an
honour to Germany.

I In the original, Rheinhessischen und rein liberalen. There is here evidently a play on the words
Rhein and rein, which have the same pronunciation. A sneer seems to be conveyed in purely liberal, though
I confessoI do not exactly understand the force of it.—Trans. '

§ The stone With the waggish inscription, in brass, “ Moguntia ab antiquo NEQ’UAM," hy an ancient
Trevirian magician of ‚ that name, who is said to have settled here with his associates, or alluding to some

other nequam-ship of the rulers of Mentz, has disappeared.

F

34 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

(Zahlbach the ruins of the long aqueduct, the reservoir of which is called the Dru-
.senlache (formerly Drusilacium or Drusilacus); and the place of burial, of which the-
monumental stones with inscriptions, as also altars, and votive and legionary stones,
are now to be seen arranged systematically in the vaulted room of the Museum,
which enjoys an excellent light. Advancing towards the present citadel, we perceive,
beside the principal stone, the Drusus stone, or Eic/telstez'7L* (so called either from its
having the “form of an acorn, or from a large gilt acorn placed above it; or perhaps
from a gold-coloured eagle, in French az'gle, and thence az'gelstez'n), the trunk probably
of a monument in memory of Drusus+. An altar was also said to have been erected
on the Rhine to Drusus, with the inscription,
IN MEMORIAM DRUSI GERMANICI“.

The pyramidal cenotaph to his memory where the decursions (warlike exercises
and processions) annually took place, and where the people of the surrounding
country assembled, according to Father Fuchs, was erected at the Drusilacium; but
it suffered severely in an insurrection of the citizens in 13529, and in 1731 the few
remains of it were destroyed. The Roman castrum, still called the Cästrich, occu-
pied the level on the Albansberg height, all the way to the declivity of the Linsen-
berg. The little Cästrich comprehended twelve acres in the field of Attach, the
Attaegia at Gonzenheim; and here there was a work of defence, or a castle, against

the gentile inhabitants of the town (i. e. natives of the country); and near to it

* Literally acorn-stone.—Trans.

+ At Cologne there is also an Eichelstein; and the place where Drusus fell is, according to the general
Opinion of late, near Cleves, from whence his body must have been conveyed by Cologne and Mentz to
Rome—See further particulars with respect to this subject in the Description of the Saalburg on the
Taunus.

I F. Fuchs first mentioned this altar, butlater antiquaries’entertain doubts of its genuineness: Lelme
afiirms that the cenotaph was erected in honour of the Emperor Alexander Severus, killed at Sicila, in
the vicinity. The decursions alluded to took place more probably on the field where the warlike exercises

were practised, near the place which now bears the name of Hechtsheim.

MENTZ. ' 35

was the Villa Cestrina, as it was called in the middle ages, a fortified place, the residence
probably of the curator .civium, or town-advocate of the mum’cipium Moguntice. There
was another castellum above the stone bridge of Weissenau. The Gau-gate (Gau-{har}
was called Porm Gentilz'um, and the Cattle-market ( Thiermar/ct}, Forum Gentile. Mentz,
when a Roman town, was divided into old; and the quarter or district called the
Golden Air (Goldene Luft) derives its name from Vz'cus Salutaris. The habitations of
the Romans extended behind the castrum towards Zahlbach, and the Rhine flowed
through what is now the Gartenfeld*, frequently in-undating places Where there
was no Roman wall. The high ground or down of Hechtsheim was used by the
Romans as a Campus JlIartz'us for their warlike games or exercises; and the meta
ludorum, the goal for these exercises, was on the spot where the holy cross+ now stands.
The burning-place for the dead was at Bretzenheim, founded by British soldiers as a.
oicus Britannorumi. Sicila, the place where the Emperor Alexander Severus was mur- .
dered in 236, was situated there, and not at Singlingen, or at Hadernheim.

Trajan and Hadrian enlarged the fortifications of ancient Mentz. The former
built a castellum (Castell) on the left point of the Maine; and the latter another
opposite to it, where Kostheim now stands, and where Kufstein, a burg belonging to
the Carolingian domains, formerly stood. Close to the floating mills, till lately four-
teen in number, but now fifteen, out of the twenty-four piers of a bridge deemed
to be Roman, eighteen only are still visible when the water is low§. Charlemagne

constructed a wooden bridge on these piers, between 803 and 813; but it was soon

* Garterfild, literally Garden-field.—Trans.

1‘ That Constantine the Great, in his expedition to Italy against Maxentius in the year 311, saw in
the clouds the sign of the cross at sunrise, on this down, is the most improbable of the ten different opi-
nions respecting the spot where this wonder happened, and the pure creation of the imagination.

I Bretzenheim at Kreutznach may equally lay claim to this distinction, for many Roman remains
are also to be found there. I

§ There are fragments of them in the arsenal, and in the church at Castell.

F2

36 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

afterwards burnt down. His palace was not situated at this place, but between
Kostheim and Castell. The cathedral founded by Willigis, and six times burnt down,
possesses a gravestone of the beautiful Fastrada, the beloved wife of Charlemagne,
formerlyin the St. Albans church, which was destroyed*; and also the, renovated
monument of Frauenlob. The privileges granted by the grateful Archbishop Adalg
bert I. ‘to his liberators, the citizens of. Mentz, are engraved in brass on the two
principal doors of ' this church. The Franciscan church preserves the remains of
Gutenberg; but no inscription informs us under what stone this modest man lies+.
The Hof zum Jungen, now called the Farberhof, in the Barfusser Platz, was the
extensive workshop of Ghtenbcrg. Schoffer had for his printing-house, first the
Korb, then the house zum Humbracht, now the Dreykonigshof, in the Shoemaker-
street (Schustergasse). The Martinsburg, built by Diether in 1478, Wasgradually
enlarged, and long continued to be the Electoral residence; but the French converted
it into an hospital. The edifice of the University, erected in 1616, under the Elector
John Schweikhard, was lately used by the French, and is now used by the Austrians,
as barracks, though it still bears the inscription, “ DOMUS UNIVERSITATIS.” The
late French Lyceum is now metamorphOsed into Prussian barracks. A skeleton is
all that now remains of the house belonging to the Dalberg family, on which is to be
seen their arms, three boars’ heads, and the inscription, “ CONCORDIA FRATRUM
EREXIT”—an_image of the perishable nature of every thing human. The three
Bleichen are beautiful and regular streets; though it must be owned that Mentz has
a number of intricate, angular, and fatiguing streets and lanes. The present popu-

lation, without including the garrison of six thousand men, but including six thousand

* Some consider this gravestone (deckelstevin) as not genuine, or of a later date than 794-, when
Fastrada [died at Frankfort, and when her remains were brought to Mentz. The Latin of the half metrical
inscription certainly sounds rather oddly, and better poetry might have been expected from an Alcuin.

+ Arnold Walpode, the founder of the Union of the Towns, was buried on the 14th November, 1268,.

in the Dominican church built by himself in 1251, and which was burnt down in the siege of 1793.

MENTZ. ' 37

poor, amOunts to nearly twenty-six thousand, of Whom nearly nine hundred are
Evangelical Christians, and eleven hundred J ews’“. Mentz still possesses ten Catholic
churches, and two thousand two hundred houses, and it is divided into six quarters.
The Protestant flock have for eighteen years assembled in the church formerly be—
longing to the Congregational or Foreign nuns ( Congregations-oder Welsch-nonnen)+.
Gustavus Adolphus extended the fortifications of Mentz from Gustavsburg,
which was occupied by the Romans under Trajan, to the left point of the Maine:
Castell, on the opposite bank, was founded by Drusus, as a Roman téle—de-pom, three
years after the erection of the castrum; and from that point a bridge was no doubt
thrown over the river. At an earlier period, when the Emperor Valentinian I. ceded
the circumjacent territory on the right bank of the Rhine to Macrian, the Alleman-
n-ian king, it belonged to the Mattiacian union (cz‘vz’tas _Mattiacorum}, as is proved by
inscriptions on stones lately dug up there; among which, one consecrated to Juno,
plated-drum eunti Niddam, speaks of a Nidda road that ran from that place to
Hadernsheim. Two other monumental stones mention a duumvz'r and decurz'o civium

Taunensz’umi, a Germanic-Roman municipal town.

* The quarter in which the latter reside is here, as well as elsewhere, distinguished for the odour
which it emits.

+ I have here called WeZsc/z-nonnen, foreign nuns, without being certain that I am strictly correct;
for welsc/z or wälsclz has more than one signification. It means prOperly foreign, and is derived from wale
or wahl, the old German word for a foreigner; but it is now most generally used to signify Italian, as the
word Welsclzland is to signify only Italy. The Gauls being the strangers with whom the old'Germans came

most frequently in contact, were more particularly distinguished by the appellation Wahlen, as the ancient
— Britons were distinguished by that of Weallas, which had the same signification, by our Saxon ancestors;
but after the Franks, a Germanic race, became masters of Gaul, the occupiers of that country were nO‘
longer strangers, but brethren, and it was natural enough that the Germans should then transfer the-title
to their neighbours, the Italians—Trans.

I There is to be seen also in the town-museum, a stone found at Castell with Runic characters inscribed’

on it, and the trunks of three capitals of the marble columns of the palace at Ingelheim. There are also

38 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

These and other objects are arranged in beautiful order in a vaulted room of
the edifice dedicated to the library, beside the collection of pictures belonging to the
town, which was obtained in exchange for old printed works of Paris. One of these
paintings is probably a copy, though an old one, of the Adam and Eve of Dürer,
with the year 1507 on it*. The collection of medals, fortunately saved by the
honest keeper, which is particularly rich in golden coins of Mentz, and the cabinet
of natural history, are equally deserving of examination. .

The new fortifications of Mentz and Castell+, in the construction of which a rich
antiquarian harvest was obtained, are a melancholy war-monument of the French,
who, on the 2d November, 1813, retreated with precipitation over the Rhine at this
place (never to return, it is to be hoped), by which means its beautiful left bank
came again into the legitimate possession of Germany. But many a noble temple
and splendid palace in Mentz was burnt and destroyed. The rich and beautiful
Carthusian convent, and the fairy palace which bo1e the name of Favorite, with its
enchanting garden, enjoying a delightful view of the heights of Taunus and of the
mountain-road, have also disappea1ed.Kostheim, however, which was thrice de-

stroyed, has again risen from its ashes, through German andBritish liberality.

in the same place, casts from the busts of Drusus (with the reticulated helmet of hair invented by him),
and of Antonia, the originals of which are preserved in the museum of the Counts of Erbach.

* The following good pictures are also well deserving of notice: Andrew and Ursula, by L. van Leyden ,
Apollom'a, by Domenichino; a Maria with her Infant, probably by Lorenzo de Credi; another in the
clouds, by A. Caracci; a pastoral piece, by L. Giordano; and a large picture of Christ in the Temple, by
J ordaens. Valuable private collections of art and other objects are also to be found here; as for example,
Lehne’s collection of antiquities. An allegorical picture of the meeting of Wellington and Blucher after
the battle of Waterloo, by N. Muller, is not unworthy of a gallery.

1- It is alleged by critics, that these newly enlarged fortifications, with the elegant little fort of
Montebello, are somewhat slightly constructed; but the proprietors were richly indemnified for their fields
and gardens. Many Roman stones were built into the walls, and form projections in several places. At

Gonzenheim, a villa rustica with mosaic work was discovered; but it is again covered by the vineyard.

MENTZ. 39

This old imperial fortress was gained over in 1792 and 1798 by guile and nego-
ciation; in 1793 and 1813, it Was besieged and retaken, after remaining twenty
years under foreign domination*. The whole of the territory included Within the
boundaries of Castell, during the period when Mentz was a free town, and from the
end of the fifteenth century, was surrounded by a broad and extensive moat, running
from Florsheim to near Mosbach, in the course of which there were three watch-
towers. Of these watch-towers, two, namely, the F lörsheim-tower, and the middle
tower near the Haijserhofe, still remain in good preservation. They were built, in
the year 1490, by Archbishop Berthold of Henneberg, and the one last mentioned
is said to have been constructed from the fragments of the walls of the old royal seat
at Erbenheim. The French, who have indulged so much in destruction, blew up
the watch-tower at Mosbach in 1798.

The present bridge of boats1L at Mentz owed its construction to the Elector John
Philip, in 1661, and it first received the addition of a rail in 1715. In 1813, the
epoch from which we date our salvation, precisely one thousand years had elapsed
from the period when the bridge of Charlemagne was burnt down. Napoleon, who
entered on so many undertakingsi, that he may be well called the undertaker (der
unternehmende), determined to erect a new stone bridge, and he assigned seven mil-

lions of franks for that object, as if he had thereby wished to raise also a water-

* Traces of this subjection have survived it, and many a noble structure of a city, once an electoral
capital, is transformed into barracks.

1‘ A bridge of this description first existed between 1631 and 1635, and it was constructed by order
of Gustavus Adolphus, the northern Jason.

I The deceased prefect, Jean Bon St. André, deserves, however, to be mentioned with honour. He
was truly the benefactor and a praiseworthy administrator of his department. He undertook the resto-
ration of the old Roman road from Bingen to Coblentz, and of the road constructed by Charlemagne
from Mentz to Ingelheim. Gratitude has allowed his name to remain engraved on a pyramid erected on
a hill on this last-mentioned road; while that of the then ruler has been effaced from it. The pyramid

contains the followin g inscriptions, in the French and German languages :

40 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

monument to himself. The Whole of the Surrounding region is 'classic ground of

ancient and modern times; it has been the continual scene 'Of interesting events,

particularly to Germany.

THE PASSAGE DOWN THE RHINE TO RUEDESHEIM.

Bacchus hos montes amat, hosce colles;
Bacchus has valles colit, hasce ripas;
Bacchus heic aram sibi consecravjt

Perpete ritu.
Meussus.

 

DESCRIPTION ‚OF THE VIEW.
BIEBRICH, the summer residence of the Dukes of Nassau, lighted up by the sun’s glowing rays, and,
reflected in the Rhine, has all the appearance of a fairy palace. In the back-ground, the Taunus moune.
tains present themselves in all their grandeur to our View, and in the fore-ground, along the majestic

stream, lies the lovely village of Schierstein.

 

“ ROUTE DE CHARLEMAGNE.
“ Terminée en Pan 1 du régne de NAPOLEON LE GnAND, Empéreur des Francois, sous les auspices de;
“ M. JEAN BON ST. ANDRE, préfet du département du Mont Tonnerre, dont la mémoi'ze sera a jamaisi
“ chére a nos descendans, héritiers de notre reconnoissance.”
“ DIRECTEURS DES TRAVAUX. . ‘ _'
“ M. SIX, inspecteur divisionnaire des ponts et chaussées.
“ M. ST. FAR, ingénieur en chef du département.
“ M. ARNOLD, ingénieur de l’arrondissement de Mayence.”
“ STRASE KARLS DES GROSEN.
“ Vollendet im 1 Jahre der Regierung NAPOLEONS DES GROSEN, Kaisers der Franken, unter der"
“ Sorgfalt des Herrn JEAN BON ST. ANDRE, PrefeCten des Départements vom Donnersberge, dessen
“ Andenken unsern Nachkommen, den Erben unserer Dankbarkeit, ewig theuer sein wird.” t"
“ L’ENTREPRENEUR DES TRAVAUX.
“ M. JACQUES KRAETZER de Mayence a fait poser le présent monument le XVII Oct. .MDCCCVII.”

A marble slab affixed to the perpendicular rock between Boppart and Coblentz, announces also, to:

present times and to posterity, the name of JEAN BON.

. f, 'x', }" (”.

    

, I} v’

   

firm/L /I [Wu/“ff z ':‘(w/

‚w./‘

nu „

 

uf JN! .!

‚z

 

I/

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

PASSAGE DOWN THE RHINE TO RUEDESHEIM. 41.

AT an early hour on a delightful morning, the travellers took their leave of
Mentz, and hailed the majestic Rhine, to which they now committed themselves.
The eye wandered over its verdant islands, and its splendid banks, adorned by vine-
covered hills and mountains crowned with aged forests, where Nature appears at
once in all her beauty and all her grandeur. The sun was reflected in the Rhine,
and its rays, emanating as it were from two skies, met in this heaven upon earth.
These scenes are equally dear to the nearer and more remote inhabitants of the sur-
rounding country, and many a one whose eye first opened on them, still turns with
unabated enthusiasm to the» stream which has long agitated him with the keenest
emotions. Our minds here are involuntarily attuned to joy, and at each well-known
spot our native Rhenish songs burst instinctivelyfrom our heaving breasts, and are
softly re-echoed from both banks. The sorrowful ruins of Mentz rise upon our
view in the back—ground; while, in front, the princely residence of Biebrich, which
'has been so fortunately preserved, gladdens us with a more cheering prospect.
The castle of Johannesberg shines at a distance on its golden hill. We steer past
the steep Schierstein, which is surrounded by lovely hills. VValluf, the upper fron-
tier wall of the old Rheingau, and Elfeld, its venerable capital, the Alta Villa of
antiquity, with their inviting country-seats, present themselves to our View; and
here hills covered with vines begin to extend themselves in the most enchanting
alternation along the right bank. The opposite bank of the Rhine, which, with its
sand—hills, is of a conformation entirely different, looks somewhat naked when
contrasted with so much sweetness. We see there Budenheim, Heidesheim, and
Heidenfahrt, the places where the Rhine was crossed by the Germans and Romans,
with their tumuli in the sandy plain, which is terminated by heights overgrown with
brushwood. Nieder-Ingelheim, the distinguished residence of Charlemagne, occu-
pying a commanding position in the Opening of what is now called the valley of
Ingelheim, but was in old times called the Reichstl1al*, which contains eight villages,

* Reiclzstlzal, literally imperial or royal valley—Trans.

G

42 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

that once received high privileges from that monarch, inspires us with awe and
veneration as we approach. The right bank of the Rhine here presents us with a
most enchanting picture of vine-covered hills, rising above one another in the form
of terraces, and mountains covered with the most beautiful forests, with delightful
villages stretching along their bases. Erbach and Hattenheim lie embosomed amidst
the heights of Marktbrunn and their mild Stralenberg. Winkel extends itself,
kneeling as it were before the Johannesberg*, the most beautiful ornament of the
Rheingau. We glide past nine islands, among which the large island at Erbach is
much visited for the sake of its pleasure-grounds; and we now perceive the Lutzel-
Aue (Lutzel Island), on which in ancient times the court and assemblies of the district
were held; but on which Louis the Pious did not die, as is erroneously stated.
Geisenheim, with its stately country-seats and its Rothenberg, now succeeds; and then
Rüdesheim, inclosed by hills covered with the most precious vines, which are pro-
tected by the steep Niederwald. We have at the same time a most cheering View of
the Rochusberg, on the opposite side of the river. .

Here our Rhenish tourists landed in this new world, to refresh themselves, and

breathe the vital, invigorating air+.

Am Rhein, am Rhein,

Da wachsen unsre Reben!

On the Rhine, on the Rhine,

There our vines do grow!

* The final syllable berg signifies mountain, the knowledge of which is necessary to understand the

meaning of the sentence—Trans.

+ At the hospitable inn the Golden Lion they were well attended to, and supplied with whatever they

could Wish.

43 "

THE RHEINGAU.

Hier auch stand die Natur, streuend mit reicher Hand
Ueber Thäler und Höh’n lebende Schönheit hin
Mit verweilendem Tritte,

Das Gefilde zu schmücken, still.

KLOPSTOCK.

Here Nature stood still, strewing with lavish hand
Her living beauty over hills and vallies‚

With lingering step

Adorning the landscape.

THIS paradise, like the region of Naples, may be styled a portion of heaven
fallen down to the earth. The majestic Rhine lingers in his course through it, and
in honour of it, forms nine verdant islands. The solemn Taunus throws his woody
arms around it, to protect it from the rough and boisterous north. Vine-covered
hills, fields and meadows, and human dwellings, are intermingled most agreeably;
and in this Elysium, we fly from place to place in an overpowering ecstasy,
which defies description. Hallgarten*, a village in the forest+, with its Hyndelberg
adorned with vines, lies in a charming situation close to the wood-covered heights.
The well—preserved equestrian castle: of Volrats (Volrades, F olratz), a family which
still continues to flourish, has a most picturesque appearance amidst its soft hills,
behind the beautifully enthroned Johannesberg. Further back, the ruins of the

burg of Scharfenstein, on a rocky vine-covered mountain, towers above the wooded

* Formerly called Hargartdun (Hargartshill), originally a hunting-seat, but as early as 1250 a flou—
rishing little village, villula.

+ Waldjlecken.—Flecken meant originally any farm-house or hamlet, with the fields belonging to
it; but it now means a place holding a middle rank between a village and a town, and where the trades of
towns are carried on. Fritsch defines it oppidum sine mum's; a distinction hardly intelligible in this country

in the present day, where the greatest cities are without walla—Trans.

I Ritter-schloss, a castle belonging to a knight for chevalier.—-Trans.

G2

44 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

valley of Kiderich. The mild vineyards stretch sweetly round the golden Markt-
brunner Stralenberg down to a narrow causeway (which is throughout protected
by an old railing, but not by a parapet wall,) between Erbach and Hattenheim,
“where the important frontier fountain (Grenz-Mark-Briinnchen) pours itself with
a pleasing murmur into a sand-stone basin (in the chapel, fitted up with elegant
seats, erected in honour of it in the celebrated vintage-year 1811), in order that
travellers may refresh themselves with the water as well as the wine of Mark-Brunn.
A beautiful range of vine-hills again follows; we approach the Johannesberg, the
Rothenberg (so called from the red colour of its soil), and the Niederwald, and every
thing assumes a more gay and southern appearance. The highway, which is fre-
quently too broad for the valuable soil through which it passes, and which was
formerly laid out under the mild episcopal sceptre, runs with a gentle slope along
the right bank of the river. A road, of five leagues in length, from Schierstein, the
commencement of the modern Rheingau, to Rüdesheim, comes in contact with eight
other places; namely, \Valluf, Elfeld, Erbach, Hattenheim,‘Oesterich, Mittelheim,
Winkel, and Geisenheim, most of which are surrounded by beautiful country-seats,
presenting a series of the most agreeable pictures to the delighted eye, and putting
the friend of antiquity in mind of the villas of the Romans. Geisenheim, the streets
of which are still unpaved, and which may be considered as a large village, has
something distinguished and solemn about it in this respect. The Rhine between
this place and Galsheim is more than half a league in breadth, which is the greatest
breadth it ever attains between Basle and Holland, and the green-coloured majestic
stream has now all the appearance of a lake. The Rheingau formerly commenced at
Nieder—Walluf, and extended to Lorchhausen; from thence it ran behind Rüdesheim,
pastthe White Tower, along the Hinterwald, as far as Mapperhof and Mapper-
thurm, and then crossed the height between Raventhal and Schlangenbad, descending
to the Klinge, where its old frontier tower still stands. Five strong bulwarks* towered

* That at Walluf, called the Back-qfen (Baker’s oven), was carried off some years ago.

THE RHEINGAU. 45

immediately above the principal passes. The Comctia Rz'negowc (Rinagouve) was an
archiepiscopal lief; but the Rheingau itself was an estate dedicated to the support
of the archiepiscopal table, and became at last a domain of the electorate of Mentz.
From the favour in which the archbishops were held by the Carolingians and the
Othos, this inestimable jewel came by degrees into their hands. The Rheingau was
formerly a free Salic possession, and was originally divided into the Upper and Lower
Bounds ( Gemarkung } ; the former comprehending the district along the mountains,
and the latter the district along the banks-of the river. It was next divided into
Rhine townships and Forest townships (R/zeinflec/fen und f Waldflec/ren ) ,- and beyond its
line of defence, into Forest villages and cantons (ortschaften) of the bailiwick of
Hohenstein, over which the electorate of Mentz possessed a criminal jurisdiction.
These villages and cantons also took part in the district assemblies on the island of
Lützel. This hospitable territory was protected on the forest side by a frontier in-
trenchment, consisting of hedges and underwood tangled and plashed together, a
species of barricado called gebz‘jc/r, which enabled its defenders in the Thirty Years
war to arrest the cause of the Evangelical heroes, till Bernard of Weimar came and
broke through the pass at the Klinge.

In the stirring and vigorous times of the middle ages, the inhabitants of the
Rheingau were exposed to frequent feuds. In the thirteenth century they still had
their particular gal/graves. In the tenth century, this noble tract of country was
acquired for the holy chair of Mentz by Hatto I. administrator of the Empire under
Louis the Child; by the Archbishop William his brother, and more particularly by
Hatto II. under the Emperor Otho II. It was soon afterwards completely united
with it by Willigis, the first arch-chancellor of the Empire’“; and the place of the
gaugraves (comz'tes Rinc/rgaugz'cr, de Rinvgawe) was then supplied by vicegerents (vice

domz'm'). The inhabitants of the Rheingau had their separate constitution, defensive

* Willigis was not the first elector, but Gerhard I. who participated in the election of Count Richard

of Cornwall (in Oppenheim) as German king.

46 v TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

institutions, liberties, and privileges, without the confirmation of which they would
not pay homage to a new ruler. Additional rights and liberties were conferred on
them by the Archbishop Adolphus II. whom they assisted in 1462 against Diether
and the citigen's of Mentz. They were also exempted from all feudal services and
compulsory military duty. They have a common saying among them, that “ the
“ air of the Rheingau makes a man free.” The old national maxim of Germany,
“ What we Were not consulted in, that will we not assist in executing,” was pecu-
liarly in force among them. According to the descriptions of former times, the
Rheingau Was “ a free, obedient, incomparable portion of the territory of the church
“ of Mentz,” In return for the immunities respecting markets and customs which
they enjoyed, the inhabitants of the Rheingau preserved, from the year 1200, the
right of defence of the town of Mentz, a right which they still exercised in 1792.
The Rheingau, in old times, consisted of twenty-eight cantons, and two bailiwicks,
Elfeld and Rüdesheim. Nieder—Walluf, so called from the VValdaffa, a mountain-
stream, was its port. This place occurs in documents as far back as 789 and 860, as
a Carolingian domain belonging to the kings-hundred. (Schierstein, Scerstein, was
in like manner a pmdium regz'um in the eleventh century). Many of the towns or
villages (flee/ten) are surrounded with walls; and Elfeld received in 1332 municipal
privileges and freedom of trade from the Emperor Louis the Bavarian. Here the
Emperor Gunther von Schwarzburg, who was poisoned, fell sick in 1349; and here
he concluded a treaty with Charles IV. his crafty adversary. Balduin von Trier,
administrator of the electorate of Mentz, built its burg* in 1330. It was often, as
well as Ehrenfels and Scharfenstein, the residence of the Archbishops of Mentz, and
a place of refuge for the clergy. A printing-office was established here about the
year 1460, by Bechtermiinze, an assistant of Gutenberg. From an inscription on
a stone found at this place, which is ascribed to the Romans, but which may perhaps

* In a fire which broke out in this burg in 1339, the greatest number and the most important of the

documents of the Rheingau, from the eighth to the thirteenth century, became the prey of the flames. =

,

THE RHEINGAU. , 47

be Carolingian, it appears that Elfeld was called Alta Villa: it was also called in
German Alter Weilcr*. The Carolingians had also a royal court at Elfeld. Altville,
with the upper part of the Rheingau, was acquired by the archbishopric of Mentz
under the Emperor Otho I. The villages {flecken} of Erbach, Mittéheim, and
Oesterich, had already their separate churches in the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth
centuries. Hattenheim was still a little village {vz'llula} about the year 1069, and
was then called Haternheim, from Hatto, a count of the Rheingau, and not from its
being a villa Hattonz's of the Archbishops Hatto I. and II.+ Oesterich and Mittelheim
were old village-colonies from Winkel, and in ecclesiastical communion with them.
Oesterich was burnt in 1635 by the Swedes, and immediately afterwards by the
Bavarians, and'again in 1688 by the French. The old village (flee/ten) of Langen-
Winkel, which well deserves to be called longi, runs along the foot of the Johan-
‘ nesberg, and abounds with beautiful country-seats. It was formerly called Weinzell
( V incella, Vz'm'cclla), and was perhaps a Roman wine-store, and afterwards, under
the Carolingians, a depot for the wine brought from Weinsheim, on the Opposite
bank. The learned Archbishop Hraban (Rhabanus Maurus) frequently took up his
abode in this beautiful nook of earth, where he died in 856, extolled as a benefactor
of the poor. Whether the old walls of a granary now belonging to Volrats (the
floor of which was extolled as a wonder, from its power to resist the attacks of mice,)
are the remains of the domestic chapel of Rhabanus, or belonged to the Rheingraves
and Sovereign Lords de VVinkela, or to the Barons de Grifencla (Griffin-claw), has

not been historically ascertained. The Klingebach from Marienthal, a stream issuing

* Weiler, from villare, in barbarous Latin, a hamlet, and flar, also derived from villare, and after-
wards changed to (ur, occur frequently as a termination of names of places.—Trans.
1— The ancestors of the family von Langwerth, now residing at Elfeld (the only Protestant family of

the nobility of the former electorate of Mentz), called themselves lords (herren) von Hattenheim; and a

burg situated there belonged to them.

I Lang is the German for long.—Trans.

48 . TOUR‘ ALONG THE RHINE.

out of the delightful dell of Johannes, falls into‘the Rhine at Bartol'méi, Where Count
Richolf founded a church dedicated'to St. Bartholomew, and an hospital for leprous
Crusaders, in the year 1109. This stream was in old times called Hunnenklingen,’ a
name which had reference to a passage of the Huns at this place. The convent of
Marienthal was first occupied by Kogelherren (an order which had its particular
rules laid down by Gerard de G-root), afterwards by Capuchins, and lastly by Jesuits.
Service is now performed there, but only on the festival—days of the Virgin. Geisen-
heim presents objects of a different description to the inquiring eye of the traveller.
The country—seat of the illustrious and politic Elector John Philip*, where, in 1653+,
the austere philosopher Leibnitz and the pious enthusiast Holzhauser of Bingen,
held conferences with a view to the union of the Catholic and Protestant churches
(conferences remarkable for the contrast which they exhibited, but which led to
nothing), is still standing here, and has a most venerable appearance. ‚Geisenheim
(Giesenheim, and also Gysinheim), so called from two neighbouring islands in the
Rhine bearing the name of Gisen, occurs in documents of so early a date as 779 and
788; but it is not mentioned in any document as producing wine before the ninth
and tenth centuries: the Rothenberg there may, however, have been planted with
vines under the Carolingians. Bishop Otwin of Hildesheim purchased a mansion
with vineyards in Geisenheim, in the year 954. Here flourished the noble families
de Gysinheim; and here was the first seat of the old Rhinegraves, where they were
rewarded by the Empire with the duty on pepper. Count Trautwein (Drutwin) had
a country-house at Gysinheim, which he sold in the year 1019. The Swedes and
Bavarians, and the French under Turenne, destroyed this place, which was formerly

of considerable importance.

* His father was buried in the church of this place, and he himself erected in it a beautiful monument
to his memory.
1- The precise date of this conference I have no means of ascertaining, but it could not be 1653, as

Leibnitz, who was born in 1645, was then only seven years cm.—Trans.

THE RHEINGAU. ' 49-

In the beginning of the Reformation, the inhabitants of the Rheingau were ar-
dently disposed towards a change of religion. Deceived by the spirit of the
times, they assembled, in the year 1525, on the hill of Wacholder, at Elfeld, and
resolved to have equal rights with the nobles, or to force the nobles to pay the same
taxes with themselves; an object which has at length been attained in our days. The
war of the Boors contributed to inspire them with this resolution, but they were soon
re-converted by the result of it, with the aid of the clergy, and on that occasion they
lost their states. Seven convents, which as spiritual fortresses had for centuries
defended this heavenly region, Tiefenthal, Eberbach, Gottesthal, Eubingen, Marien-
thal, AulhauSen*, and Noth—Gottes, were suppressed, ' one after another, some years
ago. The situation of Gottesthal (Vallis Dei}, lately a convent of Cistercian nuns,
and prior to 1220 a monastcrimn flan-um et sororum, is exceedingly sweet, and highly
calculated to inspire religious meditation: its ruins, in a narrow verdant glen, *
surrounded by vines and alders, seem to mourn over‘the mountain-stream. Close
to it is a number of mineral springs; but the shady trees which it once possessed have
disappeared. Solitary paths lead from thence to the Steinberg, which consists of
seventy—five acres of vineyard and twenty-five acres of woodland, and which, with
the farm-house belonging to it, are inclosed by a stone wall. The most valuable
wine is made on this property, which originally belonged to the convent of Eber-
bach, but is now a ducal domain, appropriated to the supply of this precious wine.

The convent itself, a noble structure, at the foot of the Rabenkopf, surrounded
with picturesque woods and verdant meadows, is highly deserving of a visit. The
appearance of this monument of ancient conventual piety, built in the most elevated

style, is well calculated to excite our wonder.

* The Forest village of Aulliausen (Ulinhusen) was founded by Ullners or Häfners (Ullnern oder
Häfnem*).
* Hafner or héfncr, a name only known in particular parts of Germany, is a person who deals in wine-lees and ale-

grounds; or, according to Frisch, a person qui cocmitfazces vini ct ccrevisiw, casque in usum suum wordt—Trans.

H

50 TOUR .ALONG THE RHINE.

This convent, which was founded by theenthusiastic crusade-preacher St.'Bernard, '
under the Archbishop Adelbert I.*, in '1131, still appears anobject of importance,
and justly claims our attention in its present ruined and alteredrstate. St. Bernard,
it is said, met a friendly boar in the woOd, which, with its snout, drew a plan of
the church on the spot where it was first built. It seems it was first erected on the
hill, but invisible spirits transported the stones, with the boar, to. the present site.
We now see along the walled rivulet of Eberbach, the first church of the con-vent,
when it had scarcely yet received its form, supported by fourteen beautiful columns,
in two rows (an edifice now converted into a receptacle for wine); and near to it the
gloomy original convent, which, by rich and pious donations and savings made by
the order, was gradually followed by a conventual palace, an hospital, and a splen-
did temple. In the centre of this temple there was a small tower, and it was
also adorned with many altars and monuments: those of Gerlach and Adolphus I.+‚
Archbishops of Mentz, are still to be seen. The significant statues of St. Bernard
fix—the attention of the traveller in several places. In the edifice which was for-
merly the abbey, we find portraits of the/different abbots. This spacious edifice,
surrounded by a strong wall, once a rich abbey, is now transformed into a correction-'

house and lunatic asylum. Ten splendid columns, with various capitals, are ranged

* The archbishoP gave for this purpose the tract of woodland called Hobe, possessed by the convent
of Augustine monks* at Mittelheim, which was suppressed in 1130, but of which the possessions were
again separated from the Bischoffsberg, and given to the Bernardine monks.

+ Several others, with figures in stone of the Counts of Nassau, were taken from the choir of the

Counts (Grafen- C/zore), and deposited in the new burg at Biebrich.

* In the original, Augustiner-Canom'e, i. e. Conventus canonicorum qui secundum regnlam vivunt. In the Roman
church canonicus denotes a lay priest possessing a prebend in a collegiate church, of whom a canon is the representative in
the present English church; or a member of an order of monks who follow the rule of St. Augustine, and are in some mea—
sure to be considered as lay priests, though they observe certain regulations, and live in common. Luther, for instance, was

a canonicus of this last description at the breaking out of the Reformation—Trans. ‘

THE RHEINGAU. ' ' 51

between the thirty empty cells In 1631, Qxenstiern had at first his winter4quarters .~
in this convent, and the edifice close beside the great church was erected by his orders.

This prudent general and greatest statesman of his age, who adhered so stanChly .
to the Scriptures, arid without whom the peace‘ of Westphalia would not have turned
out so much to the honour of the Protestants, lived on the best terms with the good
monks, whose habitation in war and in peace was the seat of hospitality. The holy

and inspired Abbot Bernard de Clairvaux found here another Wormwood Valley

{Vallis Absint/a‘alis}, and, with his industrious settlers, converted it into a more beau—
tiful Rheingau-Hellthal (Clara Vallz‘s’“). By means of these teachers of agriculture,
whose pious songs often resounded through the hills and vallies around, the whole
Rheingau soon assumed a new appearance. In those rude times, the monks of the
orders of St. Benedict and St. Bernard weredistinguished benefactors of mankind,
and the cultivation of the soil and civilization in general were greatly indebted to
them. The industrious monks of Eberbach, asearly as the year 1160, exported
their Steinberg Wine; and shortly afterwards they conveyed it in their own waggons
and vessels to Cologne, where they were peculiarly favoured, Where they had a wine-
cellar or warehouse {cellarium } of their own, and where, according to Father Bär,
they were even possessed of a shipping station on the Rhine { 1€hez°npforte+ } down to
1596. What they confided to Nature lives and renovates itself with her, while their

other works have perished in the wreck of time. In front of this convent, now no

* Vaux or raus, from vallis, is a word of frequent occurrence in the fabliaux and other remains of
the old French language, though now obsolete; and Cluirvaux has the same signification with Hellthal in
German, namely, Clear or Bright Valley. St. Bernard, Abbot de Clairvaux, was the reformer of the
order of St. Benedict; and the monks of this reformed order were called Bernardines or Cistercians, from
Cisteaux, in Latin Cistertz'um, in Burgundy, their most distinguished abbey in France.—Trans.

+ Rheinpforte, literally Rhine—gate, means an entrance into the Rhine, and- the context would lead us

to suppose that it is here used in the signification of dock—Trans.

H2

52 * TOUR ALONG > THE RHINE.

longer the abode of monks, on the slope of a sweet slate-hill, still \standsvthe reno-
vated chapel of the pious founder, which is called Bernhards-Ruhe, with the fol-
lowing inscription:

Divus BERNARDUS fessos hic sarciit‘ artus, juxta Eberbach nunc precibus ora celebrate viator stes:
and also the following affectionate German couplet:

Allhier es heisst BERNARDI Ruh
Lieb’ geb’ der Ruh*‘ die Werk hinzu'l'.

This place is called BERNARD’S Repose:
May love supply the means of repose!

Here we are reminded of the distich:

Bernardus valles, montes Benedictus amabat,

Oppida Franciscus, celebres Ignatius urbesl.

The Gothic church of the Forest village (Waldflecken) of Kiderich (formerly
called Ketercho, C/zctrec/zo), with its painted windows, and the beautiful country-seat
of an equestrian family, surprise us in the most agreeable manner in this sylvan
recess. The burg of Scharfenstein, suspended over the village, was constructed in
the twelfth century, and was an earlier residence of the Archbishops of Mentz than
Ehrenfels. It had its burg-men, or _joint defenders, who, took their name from it, and
who dwelt in separate burgs ( thalburgbaue}; but they became gradually extinct.

One of these possessions came through inheritance into the hands of the Counts

* Ruhe in German signifies rest or repose, and is not unfrequently the termination of names of places;
as for instance, Karls or Curls-rake, the Repose of Charles, &c.—Trans.

1' Reichertshausen, a possession belonging to the convent of Eberbach, was, as early as the year
1162, according to a papal bull, the wine-warehouse (cel/arium super ripam Renz") of the abbey; and the
Draiserhof, close adjoining, was the boundary of the convent between Elfeld and Erbach.

I St. Bernard loved vallies, St. Benedict mountains, St. Francis villages, and St. Ignatius renowned
cities. The latter no doubt thought he had made the best choice, but his successors were the first who

suffered in consequence of it.

THE RHEINGAU. 53

of Solms, ‘ and the ruins of the principal burg now belong to the Counts of Bass'en-
heim. The foundations of a building, the name of which is still unknown, though
it must also have been a burg, are to be seen on the Him’melreichfihe wood-covered
hill between Kiederich and Rauenthal, already mentioned in the description of
Schlangenbad.

The name Rz‘ngan, Ringow, or Rheingau, is certainly derived more naturally from

'Rz'n, the Rhine, than from the vallies (alten) inclosed within the stone-ring hills (stein-
rz'ng-hähen} of the Taunus; though it is also called Rinegowe, Iiz'nclrgau, and Rinc/rgow“,
especially in documents. The Upper Rheingau ran from Sulzbach on the mountain-
road to the Maine (which is supposed to be the ()bringa of Ptolemy); and the Under
or Lower Rheingau extended formerly to Friedberg, and consequently included the
Kings-Hundred and the Nitachgow or Niedgau. To the present Rheingau alone
belongs the praise of still preserving the old name; which, however, from the power
of ' custom, or for the sake of euphony, the inhabitants have deprived of its hiatus,
and transformed into a neuter+.
‘ This delightful land may have still appeared more beautiful and attractive to
monks in the days when chivalry and monachism were in their bloom, when its
romantic burgs, no longer the abodes of violence and rapine (muß und “fc/zahllosen
burgen}, and its hospitable co‘nvents kindly invited the weary traveller, who is now
refreshed in peaceful country-seats.

The inhabitants of the Rheingau are kind, frank, hospitable, and, generally speak-

ing, endowed with a certain innate hilarity, which well becomes them. As the

* Ring was in old times written Krink and Rink, as well as Ring. It may be proper to observe, that
Rink and Ring are pronounced by most Germans, in the samelmanner as thing and think are by the common
people of this country; so that the word is the same to the ear, though not to the eye—Trans.

+ The author means by hiatus the r in Rheingau following the 1- in the masculine definite article der,

as der Rheingau. By making Rheingau neuter, it is das Rheingau.—Trans.

54 TOUR ALONG THE _RHINE.

district was itself separated from the country adjacent by the Rhine and a trench,
its inhabitants were in like manner a separate people. They yet form, as it were, only
one family, especially the inhabitants of Rüdesheim, who are almost all related to
each other*, and who seldom marry elsewhere. Persons when they meet greet each
other with the words, “ Good time!” which in a bad time sounded doubly grateful.

In former days, the festal peals of the baptized and consecrated May-bells sweetly
echoed through the pleasant hills and vallies of the Rheingau, from the setting in of
even to the dawn of morning, with the View of obtaining the blessing of Heaven on
the labours of man in that season of hope, when he commits the source of his future
subsistence to the bosom of the earth, and when, in the unsuspecting confidence of
piety, he supposes the continuance or the failure of the bonnty of nature may depend
on the efficacy of his prayers. This ringing of bells has been prohibited here as well
as elsewhere, on account of the disturbance which it occasioned by night; but the
herb-wine retained its rights, and still continues to be as refreshing as Rhenish
nectar.

The most delightful periods of the year in the Rheingau, and more particularly
in Rüdesheim, are, that in which the vine puts forth its blossoms, when the whole
country is filled with the most delightful fragrance; and autumn, when grapes of
the very best quality invite to enjoyment. They are riot trodden here, but beat; and
we therefore drink the must without hesitation or disgust.

The same wild hubbub and idle discharge of fire-arms which take place elsewhere,
are not to be heard in the Rheingau; but the men and women connected with the
vine-cultivation, form processions with music and singing. A female is elected wine-

matron in the bacchanalian precession at the end of the vintage. There are houses

* The watermen of Rüdesheim have from time immemorial been famed for their knowledge of the
navigation of the Rhine, and at the same time for their roughness and covetousness; talents which would

seem congenial with the violent element they belong to.

THE RHEINGAU. ‘ ' ‘ ‘ 55

and vineyards of considerable value belonging to various old and new proprietors,
especially in Geisenheim and Rüdesheim. This district, with respect to mildness of
climate, may indisputably pass for the most southern zone of Germany. The road
V from Geisenheim to Rüdesheim is the most beautiful of the whole Rheingau; and a
row of walnut and elm trees affords also that beneficent shade, which we so seldom
meet with in this wine-region, Where, in general, more attention is paid to the culture
of the grape, than to that of fruit or ornamental trees. Viewed from an adjacent
height, this enchanting tract of country appears before us like a carpet of delight,
skilfully woven by the formative hand of Nature.

Und es breitet das Lustthal sich zu den Füssen, da schmücken
Goldne Saaten die Flur, goldne Trauben die Höhen.
Ort ist an Orte gereiht, hier baute sich froh der Mensch an,

Wo die Erde so gern lohnt das leichte Bemüh‘n.

A vale of pleasance spreads beneath our feet;
The plains adorn’d with golden grain, the heights
With golden grapes. Village to village joins;
For where the earth the lightest toil rewards

With lavish hand, does man delight to build.

56 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

THE ,JOHANNESBERG.

Dankbar nenne das Rheingau noch Euch Lehrerin] Feldbau!
Die mit frommem Bemi'ihn förderten Wissen und Kunst,
Welchen der Bischofl'sberg und der Steinberg wurden zum Tempel,
Wo des Klausseners Hand Reben in Steine gepflanzt;
Durch die milde Natur ein unvergängliches Denkmal,

Bernhardiner! und Euch, Benedictinerl geweiht.

Oh! let the Rheingau still with gratitude

Cherish the names of those who taught them first
To cultivate their fields; who kindly strove,

“’ith pious zeal unwearied, to promote
vThe love of art and knowledge, unto which

They rear’d a fame on Bischofi'sberg and Steinberg!
Where’er amidst the stones the hermit’s hands
Planted the vine, there Nature’s fostering care

An everlasting monument preserves

To you, ye sons of Benedict and Bernard.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW.

In the fore-ground we see the crane of Oesterich, then Mittelheim and Lange-Winkel, extending
to the foot of the J ohannesberg, which is crowned with a castle, and adorned with vines of the very best
quality. F urther, down, we observe the Rotheberg (Red-Hill) at Geisenheim, and the lofty Niederwald
at Rüdesheim. Beneath the latter, and in a line with it, we discover the beautiful chapel of Rochus, on

its broad hill. The whole is reflected in the soft ether of the Rheingau.

THIS golden hill is the crown of the Rheingau, in the midst of which it is most
picturesquely enthroned. In its vicinity, we feel ourselves in the very heart of the
far-famed Rhine-Land. We ascend imperceptibly this [detached vine-hill, which
is protected towards the north-east by the wood-covered Rabenkopf, and towards

the north by the Taunus mountains. Behind the priory, on the same hill, lies the

„ff/ul; ‚lf/ ’

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE JOHANNESBERG. 57

town or village ( flecken ) of J ohannesberg, formerly a colony of servants belonging
to the establishment; and at the foot of the hill, facing the river, lies the little
village of Johannesgrund, and also a nunnery, called the Klause, connected with the
abbey by a subterraneous passage, which was founded in 1109 by Richolf, the last
Rhinegrave, in honour of St. George, the then patron of the Crusaders. The top
of the castle commands a most beautiful View of the Rhine from Biebrich to Bingen,
over the nine islands and the twenty intervening cantons. Slender elms adorn the
foot of the golden hill, which was an allodial possession belonging to the arch-
bishopric of Mentz, before the Rheingau came under that see, and before it received
the name of Bischolfsberg. It is believed that Rhabanus Maurus, previously Abbot
of F ulda, first planted this vine-hill, and built a chapel here dedicated to St. Nicholas,
and that he was here elected Archbishop of Mentz in 847. It is more certain that,
in the year 1106, Ruthard Archbishop of Mentz founded a Benedictine convent
dedicated to St. John, which Richolf, the Rhinegrave or Gaugrave, the brother-in-
law of Ruthard*, Dankmund his wife, Louis his ‘son, and Werntrud his daughter,
who successively embraced a religious life, enriched with additional endowments,
till from a priory of St. Alban, it was, under the Archbishop Adelbert I. about the
year 1130, transformed into. a Benedictine abbey. This convent suffered severely,
not because its hospitable monks did not live agreeably to the rules of the order of
St. Benedict, but from the pillage and misery which are the inseparable companions
of war. It was very roughly handled in the war of the Boors in 1525, and afterwards
plundered and burnt down by the Markgrave Albert of Brandenburg in 1552. ‚It
was soon, however, restored; but it was again destroyed by the Swedes in 1631.

The consequence was, that it became involved in debt, and was abandoned, having

* This foundation was an expiatory offering and the fruit of a vow of the two brothers-in-law, who,
with the first Crusaders at Mentz (before the expedition of the latter to the Holy Land), abused and pil-
laged the Jews on St. John’s day, in the year 1099; which incensed Henry IV. so much, that be sentenced

them to seven years’ banishment to Thuringia.

58 „ TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

been mortgaged by the Elector Anselm Casimir for 920,000 rix-dollars to Hubert von
Bleymann, treasurer of the Empire. In vain the Benedictines strove to regain their
old possession; the mortgage had risen to 30,000 rix-dollars in the hands of von
Giesen and his associates. In consequence of a dexterous negoéiation at Mentz, under
the Elector Lothar Francis, the Prince Bishop and Abbot of Fulda, who was of the
same spiritual fraternity with the monks of J ohannesberg, succeeded in recovering
their abbey on payment of the ,mortgage and an additional sum: it was not restored,
however, to its old conventual state, but was converted into a priory. The castle
was built between 1717 and 1723, under the Prince Abbot Adelbert von Walderdorfi
and two clergymen belonging to Fulda constantly resided here. The surrounding
district was formerly called the Helda. The hill contains fifty-five acres (margen*)
of vineyard, and there belong to it seventy acres of meadow, four hundred and fifty
acres of arable land, and four hundred of forest-land, over which Nassau has now
the sovereignty. The vines consist mostly of riesslingevf, which give the particular
flavour and delicious taste to this German Tokay: it is of a gentle heat, mild and
strong at the same time, and unites all the good qualities of the juice of the grape,
which are heightened by a late vintage, that generally takes place in the beginning
of November, after the grapes have been completely ripened by frost. A cask con-
taining eight ohms: of this precious wine, particularly of the vintage of the comet-

year 1811, often sells for from 3 to 4000 florins (from 3331. to 444]. sterling). In the

. * I have translated morgen acre, but the reader must not suppose that the two measures are precisely
the same. Indeed the morgen is hard-1y the same in any two states of Germany; nay, in the same place
the morgen of arable land or pasture frequently differs from the morgen of forest. The Berlin lesser
morgen, adopted throughout Prussia, is nearly one third less than the English acre—Trans.

+ The following account of riesslz'nge or risslinge is given in Nemnich: “ Varieties of the common
“ vine, The small risslz'nge of the Rheingau has little round grapes, which are sweet and savoury, and
“ of a whitish-yellow colour. The risslinge of the Breisgau is also called orth'eber, oellinger, gelber master,

“ fau'ler elsässer: the grapes are round and middle-sized, and have a sweet savoury taste.”—Trans.

I 328 Gallons—Trans.

““!

THE JOHANNESBERG. . . ' 59

left lateral apartment of the castle there are portraits of five Bishops of Fulda; and
from thence we have a view of the Feldberg and Al‘tkönig, the Vogelsberg and the
mountains of Fulda. There is a large cellar under the castle, where traces are still
to be seen of an attempt to blow it up in the year 1796, on account of arrears of
contribution; an attempt which would have been realized but for the vigorous inter-
ference of the honest bailiff of Rüdesheim, who on this occasion spoke his mind in
bold German to the plundering general of the hostile forces*. Even in the year
1792, the bestowers of freedom seized the wine in the cellars, which were yet full.
Fulda‘possessed the Johannesberg up to 1802, and Orange-Fulda up to 1805; it
then came into the hands of the French, who kept it till the end of the year of our
liberation, 1813. It was at length taken possession of by Austria in 1815; and on
the 1st August, 1816, one hundred years after it came into the hands of Fulda,
Prince Metternich, the Oxenstiern of our day, received it as a fief, burdened with an
annual duty of the tenth part of the wine produced, by way of reward for his pa-
triotic services. .

Mayest thou long continue to flourish in luxuriant beauty, mild J ohannesberg!

and to yield in rich abundance thy golden nectar!

Herrlich hebst du das Haupt, umkränzt mit feurigen Reben,

Ueber den Lustgau hin welchem die Zierde du bist.

Thy head, bedeck’d with clustering fiery grapes,
Thou nobly rear’st above the pleasant dale,

Of which thou art the ornament and pride.

* Among other things, he said to him, “ On beholding these horrible ruins, the passing traveller

“ will exclaim with execration, ‘ This was done by that general!’ ”

IQ

60 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

NIEDER-INGELHEIM.

Sieh Karls throneuden Ort, wo noch in der stillen Ruine,
Seine Grösse sich zeigt und zu den Wanderern spricht:
Zwar es versank, wie Herrschergewalt, dies prächtige Denkmal,

Aber das Land blüht noch, das er zum Garten erschuf.

Behold the regal seat of mighty Charles,

\Vhose greatness in the silent ruins still

Displays itself, and to the traveller says,

“ This splendid monument, like sovereign power,
“ Has crumbled down, ’tis true; but this fair land,

“ A garden made by him, still flourishes.”

OUR attention is now claimed by Nieder-Ingelheim, which lies in .a beautiful
situation opposite Johannesberg, and whose venerable walls and other remains of
the palace (palatz'um) of Charlemagne, built between 768 and 774, powerfully arrest
the traveller. A hundred columns of granite and marble, brought from Rome and
Ravenna to this place, supported the rural retreat of the emperor; though the trunk
alone of one of the granite columns, with an inscription on it, is still to be seen at
the entrance: the others were carried off under the Elector Philip of the Palatinate,
and are still the ornament of the castle of Heidelberg, one of the grandest and most
beautiful ruins of Germany.

An old Saxon poet, quoted by Leibnitz, described this palace in the following
verses:

Est locus ille situs, rapidi prope flumina Rheni,
Ornatus variis cultibus et dapibus;

Quo domus alta patet, centum perfixa columnis '
Quo reditus varii tectaque multimoda,

Mille aditus reditus, millenaque claustra domorum,

Acta magistrorum artificumque manu.

NIEDER-INGELHEIM. 61

And Muratori (Script. Ber. Ital. T. H; Nigellus in vita Ludov. Pii,) also gives a

poetical View of it, which is deserving of a place here along with the foregoing:

Ingelenhem dictus locus est, ubi condidit aulam,
Etas cui vidit nostra parem minime.

Ad quae marmoreas prwstabat Roma columnas,
Quasdam praecipuas .pulcra Ravenna dedit.

De tam longinqua potuit regione potestas,

Illius ornatum, Francia ferre tibi.

Who can see this place without calling to mind Emma, the daughter of Charles,
who there carried Eginhard, her lover, through the snow at an early hour in the
morning?

This Nieder-Ingelheim, also called in documents Englilonheim, Hingilenheim,
Ingulunheim, but most frequently Ingilenheim, is one of the most memorable places
on the Rhine. Various ecclesiastical and imperial assemblies were held at Ober-
Ingelheim, a short distance from it. Here Charlemagne held the first imperial diet,
in the year 774; and in 788, deprived Thasillo Duke of Bavaria of his dignity, for
the crime [wm majestatz’s, or high treason. Again, in 814, Louis the Pious or Mild,
in Nieder- Ingelheim, took King Harold (Herioldus) of Denmark under his protection,
and ordered the convert to be baptized at St. Alban at Mentz. Here the same
Louis, in 817, received the deputies of Leo Emperor of the East, and afterwards
the splendid embassy of the Emperor Theophilus from Constantinople. On a
verdant island* adjacent, now called the Alte Sand, this Louis the good-naturedJr
terminated his life, through grief on account of his son Louis the German, to whom

he owed his liberation. in 834 from the convent at Soissons, having entered the field

* The emperor having embarked at Frankfort, landed there sick, and remained forty days in a house
purposely constructed for him.
‘l According to other accounts, he set out to meet his son, and died at Mentz. This feeble and good

Louis I. was not an enlarger, but a diminisher and dismemberer of the Empire.

62 TOUR ALONG THERHINE.

against him in consequence of his recent division of the Empire. The succeeding
Carolingians down to Louis IV. the Child, frequently resided at Ingelheim; the
Othos and Salian emperors did the same. The celebration of the marriage of
Henry III. with the daughter of William of Poitou, took place here in 1039. Here
also Henry IV. determined and irresolute by turns, was in 1106 made a prisoner by
\ his infamous son, and forced to resign the imperial crown; when even the Bishop of
Spires, who was indebted to him for his dignity, treated him as an/outlaw, and re-
fused to give him either food or shelter.

This palatz'um was rebuilt by the Emperor Frederic I. 'in 1154, in honour of
Charlemagne; and this worthy imperial sovereign delighted as much to reside here,
as at Gelnhausen and Kaiserslautern. In the thirteenth century, the Emperors
William of Holland and Richard of Cornwall besieged, took, and devastated this
renowned and venerable palace. ,

In 1354, the old palace was renewed by Charles IV. who resided in it for some
time; and founded at the same time a convent for the Pnemonstralenses of Prague.
In 1360, Ober and Nieder-Ingelheim were, runder this emperor, mortgaged to the
electorate of Mentz, but were redeemed by the Elector Palatine Rupert. They were
destroyed in the war between Frederic I. and the Archbishop Adolphus of Mentz;
afterwards in the Thirty Years war; and lastly, by the French in 1689, on which last
occasion only a part of the walls of the palatium was left standing. Whether Charle-
magne was born here or at Aix-la—Chapelle is not so well ascertained, as that Nieder-
Ingelheim was his favourite rural residence".

From this left side of the Rhine there is a noble view of the rich wine-country
opposite, with its charming villages, golden Vine-hills, and sublime wood-covered
heights. From the palace there was a road to Ober-Ingelheim, an ancient little
town, containing ruins of castellated and ecclesiastical edifices, and a tournament

“ Sebastian Münster, long celebrated as a cosmographer, who died at Basle in 1552, was born at

Nieder-Ingelheim in 1489.

RUEDESHEIM. 63

saddle in the town-house, said to have belonged to Charlemagne. In the principal
church, now Calvinist, the gravestones of the knights of Ingelheimiand the paintings
on glass of the actions of Charlemagne, who was placed by the pope himself among
the saints, are deserving of notice. The two Ingelheims were formerly subject to
the same superior tribunal, had their particular imperial bailiffs, and bore the simple
imperial eagle in their arms. Much red wine is obtained from the hills of Ingelheim,
but in fire and goodness it is inferior to that of Asmannshaiiser. The vines from
which this wine is made, were first planted in 1730: the tythe for it is discharged

in white wine.

RUEDESHEIM.

Ille terrarum mihi printer omnes
Angulus ridet ...........
Ver ubi longum, tepidasque pracbct
Jupiter brumas; et amicus Aulon
Fertili Baccho minimum Falernis

In videt uvis.

HORACE.

THIS place*, with its enchanting environs, unites all the charms of the Rheingau.
It is adorned by four burgs and a Carolingian palace {saalhof }, monuments of former
times. The old burg (alte burg }, called also Niederburg, still in good preservation,

is situated on the brink of the Rhine, and is picturesquely surrounded with poplars.

* It is called in documents Ruodinesheim, Rudinesheim, Ruothenesheim, Rodensheim, and Rudensheim.
The name is certainly not derived from ruden, rüden, or rieden, a hunting—dog, for Rüdesheim was neither
a Carolingian dog-kennel nor a Hundeskeim*. Rüdesheim may, however, be derived from ausroden‘r, and

also from a villa Ruodinis.

* Hundes/mim, literally Home for Dogs. Heim is a very usual termination of names of places, and Hundesheim may be

considered equivalent to Dog-town.—Trans.

1— Ausroden, a Lower Saxon word for ausroucn, to root out.—Trans.

64 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

An historian disposed to reject whatever does not admit of proof, may question an
opinion acceptable to antiquaries, that the foundations of this burg served for a for-
tified place of passage to the castellum at Bingium (Bingen), on the opposite bank.
No document indeed says any thing on the subject, but the quadrangular form of
the building, and other particulars characteristic of the Roman style, denote a very
ancient origin. Under the Carolingians, and posterior to the time of Charlemagne,
who caused the hill of Rüdesheim to be planted, this burg was undoubtedly a royal
court, or royal superior tribunal (curtz’s regz'a, fiscus regalis}; to which circumstance
Rüdesheim owes its cultivation; and to its having been the seat of the royal admini-
strators (/r'o'nigsmeyer) at Rüdesheim, it is indebted for their ancient and original house.

This remarkable and almost sole-existing monument of those times is, pictu-
resquely considered, one of the most beautiful of the burgs of the Rhine. The
inserting of columns into the walls, both externally and internally, is characteristic
of the earliest period of the middle ages. Another style, with Gothic, or rather old
German arched windows, connects it with a later period of the middle ages, in which
it first occurs in documents (namely, in the twelfth century,) as belonging to the
lords of Rüdesheim. Towards the middle of the thirteenth century, the brothers
Frederic and William, Whose ancestors bore the wing as arms, divided themselves
into two main branches : Frederic abandoned the wing, and adopted the lilies ,-
William continued to bear the wing. From the latter branch sprung the Fuchs
(Vulpes) and the Winter; and from the former, the Bremser von Rüdesheim. The
Fuchs and the Winter retained the Oberburg, and the Bremser constructed the Vor-
derburg. From this again came the secondary branches of auf dem Markt and vom
Hause (de fora et de damn), as also of the Kinde von Rüdesheim. In the division,
the principal burg fell to the share of the lilies stock, and through inheritance to the
Brömser family, who constructed the spacious new burg. The principal burg was a
ruin in the sixteenth century; and it might well therefore, from its low situation,

have been destructively attacked in the insurrection of the Boors in 1525, and then

RUEDESHEIM. 65

abandoned. It was a nest of robbers about the year 1275; and by way of punish-
ment, it became a fief of the archbishopric of Mentz in 1989. This burg, [the
battlements of which have the appearance of a garden, and which is very much
visited, was in its interior elegantly restored by the present noble possessor’F; The
Mittelburg or Oberburg, now called Boosenburg, which, joins it, is of two styles of
architecture, and devolved as an hereditary fief of theCounts of DeuX-Ponts (though
when and how it became such is not yet knOwn), first to the ven der Spor family, now
extinct; and then to John Bois, or Boos von VValdecken, in 1474; and Count Boos-
Waldeck of Sayn, is still in possession of it. The third, or Vorderburg of the von

Rudensheim, came through marriage into the possession of the Brömbser, and a

tower of it only now remains. Near to it stand the walls of the Saalgericht, or

Carolingian Saalhof, the judicial seat of the superior court (judicz'um villicale, curiale
majus}, constructed on account of the Frankish terra Salim, allodz'alis et libera, as the
Rheingau was an estate dedicated to the support of the royal table. In the renovated
structure of the former Bromser-Hof, called the Brömser-Burg, and also the new
burg, constructed in the fourteenth century by the celebrated John Brombser, who
died in 1416, there are to be seen, in the knights’ hall and in the chapel, all manner
of relics of this family, with their portraits, and the horn, fashioned into a chandelier,
of the wild ox which, according _to pious traditions, dug out of the earth, in the
adjoining wood, the image of our Saviour, and reminded John Brumser+, or
Bremsper III. of his vow in Palestine, to found a convent on his return from imprison-
ment to his native home. This convent was accordingly built and endowed, and it
was called Noth—Gottes (Need of God), as this word resounded on the spot where the

image was found. It was long preserved in the chapel of the convent, with the

* The Count von Ingelheim, at Geisenheim, who purchased it from Prince, formerly Count von
Metternich, to whom it came through inheritance.

1- His family burg was Bremsper, or Presper, on the Wisper.

K

66 TOUR ALONG THE RHlNE.

tongue" of the dragon slain by von Brömbser in the —Holy Land, and the chains
which he were when a‘ prisoner. Among. the old pictures and monuments (for in-

stance, among those of the family of Hartmuthe von Kronberg, related to the Brömbser

family), we see an image of Gisela Brömbser+ (a beautiful matron), avmarriage-bed,

and two large bride-chests, all of them ornamented with biblical symbols of love

and fidelity, elaborately carved.

On the Vine—covered heights and vallies of Rüdesheim, whose silicious, calcareous,
loamy, and clay-slaty soil is highly favourable to the cultivation of the grape, and
Where nature and the most unwearied industry seem to vie with each other, we are
presented with monuments of a more beautiful description. The different vine-
grounds take their names from their different situations, as Hinterhaus, Oberfeld,
Rottland, and Bergi. This broad hill, with its steep declivities, its gradations or
terraces, and its water-courses, exhibits altogether a wonderful specimen of human.
industry, and when seen from Bingen, on the opposite bank, has a very splendid
appearance. Where the ground is too stony and rocky to admit of the insertion of

* It is properly the saw, or armed part of the mouth, of a saw-fish (squalus pristis Linn.), with the
teeth out off; and serves to prove how very mystically poetical the says (traditions) and saws (sagen und
sägen) were furnished in those days. i

+ Nothing is known of any daughter named Gisela Bromhser: such a personage lives only in the
dramatic world. The Brömbser family became extinct in 1668 (with Henry the vicegerent, and envoy
from the electorate of Mentz in the negociations for the peace of Westphalia), on which the whole of
the possessions devolved, first to the equestrian family of Bettendorf, and afterwards, in 1770 and subse-
quent periods, to the equestrian families of Erthal, Frankenstein, and Eudenhofen. The above Bröm-
seriana, which are in good preservation, are shewn in this edifice with particular politeness.

I This district contains 1500 acres (morgen), of which 400 constitute the berg (hill): they yield al-
together from 1500 to 1800 stück of wine*, in good years.

* Almost every place in Germany has its own weights and measures, and the stück of wine is hardly the same in
any two districts. According to the wine-measure of Frankfort, which, from the proximity of that place, is probably

adopted by the author, the stück contains either 7% ohms or 7% ohms, of7436 French cubic inches. Taking the first of these.

1500 Stücks are equal to 3476 pipes, and 1800 to 4055 pipes—Trans.

RUEDESHEIM’. 67

the vine, an artificial substitute is adopted: baskets filled with earth are conveyed
to these spots, and the vines are planted in them '(ve‘rpflanzungerorbc). The first
vines were procured by Charlemagne from Orleans (where no good wine can now be
obtained), and from Champagne, when'he saw the snow melt here sooner than on
the heights by which Ingelheim is surrounded; ”a distinction also observable in the
present day. The savoury and thick-skinned grapes Which grow on‘ the berg (hill)
of Rüdesheim are still called Orlänner or welsche Orlean, and people delight to attribute
their introduction to the great Charles, though the circumstance of his having planted
them is not mentioned in any documents. That the vine was cultivated, however,
under his successors, is proved by a document of the year 864, which makes men-
tion of a vinea in villa Ruodinesheim’l‘. According to traditions, the hill of Rüdesheim
was gradually planted by order of Charlemagne, Hatto II. and Siegfried 1.1- It
is probable that vines were planted here, as well as along the Moselle and elsewhere
on the left of the Rhine further in Gaul, as early as the year 280, under the Roman
Emperor Probus; and the same thing must have been done by hordes of Hunsi,
who roamed over Germany, first in the middle of the fifth century, and afterwards
from 907 to 937, particularly while Henry the Fowler was emperor; a circumstance
alluded to in old documents, which make mention, for instance, of vz'num Hunm'cum
and vinum F rancz'cum. -

Rz'csslingc and Hez'nbergcr are, properly speaking, grapes peculiar to the country,

and with the large blue flesh-grapes (fleisch—trauben }, or black mus/satellcr, are the

* Bodmann’s Geschichte (History) des Rheingaues.

+ Siegfried did not do it at his own expense, but, in 1074, gave a vineam novalem in Ruotheneslzcim, on
the bare hill, to the cultivators, for a yearly wine-rent. In another document (of 1074) mention is made
of the vineyards of Rüdesheim.

I Attila did not visit this region as a scourge of nations in the year 450, but proceeded by the
Upper Rhine, probably by Basle and Hünningen, into Gaul. The conquered Huns then peopled the

Hunns-rück.

K2

68 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

principal kinds which are here carefully cultivated. An acre of the hill {berg-morgen}
sells for from 5 to 10,000 florins, and an acre of other vine-ground sells for from 1 to
3000 florins. In Asmanshausen; formerly Hasemanshusen’F, in the vicinity, grows
a well-known red wine, which is more fiery but not so wholesome as Burgundy.
Charlemagne is said'to have obtained the first of the vines bearing the small blue»

grapes from which this wine is made, from Burgundy.

 

THE NIEDERWALD.

Zu des Rheines Reben-hi’xgeln,
Hochgebirgen, Waldgebreiten,
Auen die den Fluss bespiegeln,
Fruchtgeschmückten Landesweiten;
Möget mit Gedanken flügeln,
Ihr den treuen Freund begleiten.

Gon’rnn.

Come with me, your faithful friend,
0n the wings of thought, along

To where the Rhine his course does bend
Rich vine-cover’d hills among;

To his mountains tempest-braving,
Isles'with gaiest verdure clad,

Fields with yellow harvest waving,

And his woodlands wide outspread.

THE charming situation of this Wooded summit of the hill of Rüdesheim in-
duced the former possessor to build an elysium on it, which is very much visited,
and which cost him above half a million of florins.

The principal edifice, which has the appearance of a hunting-castle, ought to

* In documents of as early a date as the eighth century, it is called Huson in page Rinense, without

any prefix.

THE NIEDERWALD. 69 '

have been placed in front, and not behind, where there is‘ only a confined though
romantic View of the Rhine to Bacherach. The view from a small temple over the
best part of the Rheingau, the picturesque islands of the Rhine, and the majestic
stream which spreads itself out like a lake, and in which every thing is reflected as
in a mirror, is altogether unique and exquisitely beautiful. At one time we imagine
ourselves by the lakes of Zurich and Bienne; at another by the lake of Lugano;
and then again, we feel ourselves transported to the charming regions of Italy, which,
however, possesses no river like the Rhine.

The view from the Rossel, as it is called, whence we see the Rochusberg beneath
us, the Donnersberg in the back-ground, and the winding Nahe at our feet, with
Bingen and its ancient ruins and the Mice-Tower, is still more sublime and awfully‘
beautiful. This Rossel, built in the manner of a ruin, was literally made a ruin
during the last revolutionary war; and indeed the whole of the surrounding places
were within a little of being completely destroyed’".

The broad Rochusberg, with its chapel, directly opposite, affords a most striking
view. This chapel was built in 1666, at a time when the plague raged in Germany,
in honour of the protecting patron of that dreadful contagion. It was consecrated
anew on the 16th August, 1814, the day of the saint, in presence of a multitude of
twelve thousand souls. Goethe described the solemnity in the second number of
his Art and Antiquities on !lzc Rhine, .Maz'nc, and Nee/mr. The old chapel of Vierzehn-
Nothhelfer, in the wood of Monbach, towards Mentz, where lame persons and
diseased cattle were consecrated and cured by the pious hermits, is now also re-
established! It may be liberal, and agreeable to the spirit of the age, to allow the

people here and'the're to indulge in their predilections, whether orthodox or heterodox.

* On the summit of the mountain-range of the Niederwald, we find traces of stone-rings, such as

have been discovered at Bingen,'an‘d are to be found on the Rabenkopf, the steepest elevation of the

Rheingau-Tau nus.

7o TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

BINGEN.

Wo der gewaltige Rhein, durch weithinragende Felshöh’n

Kühn sich gebrochen die Bahn, die das Gestein ihm verschloss.

Where the all-powerful Rhine, through rocky heights,
Closing on every side to stop his course,

A passage boldly forced.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW.

We here see this old and lively town, from the west side: its environs are most delightful. In front
is St. Martin’s church; beside it, the burg of K10pp, and behind, the chapel of Rochus. On the op-
posite hank we perceive, in a charming distance, the beautiful village of Rüdesheim, with its old burg,
reflected in the Rhine; then Geisenheim, with its Rotheberg, and the J ohannesberg. The steep vine.

hill of Rüdesheim, girt round with artificial stone terraces, rises up pyramidally opposite Bingen.

NOTHING can be more easy than the passage down the broad stream from Rüdes-
heim to Bingen, the Roman Bingium*, on the opposite bank, which forms the
boundary between the soft part of the Rhine through which we have passed, and
the romantically wild and rocky region on which we are about to enter. This little
town, which exhibits great bustle and animation, particularly on market-days, from
the trade carried on by its spirited inhabitants, has as dark and gloomy an appearance
as the country around it is cheerful. Even in the time of the Celts there was an
inhabited place here; and under the Romans, the aims soon became a municipz'um,
which was still further enlarged by Julian. Ausonius has an allusion to this in his.

poetical passage from Mentz to Triers, in the year 368, when he says,
Transieram celerem nebuloso lumine navam,

Addita miratus veteri nova mamia 'oico.

* By the mistakes of transcribers in ancient times, the name Bingium was transformed into Bincum

and Vincum.

 

 

BINGEN. ' . 71——

Here also, and probably on the height on which the burg of Klopp was after-
wards built, there was a castellum constructed by Drusus, from whom the gate
towards Mentz called the Drusenthor, and a fountain half a league distant from
Bingen called the Drusenborn, have their names. The persons intrusted with the
defence of this fortress were called mz'lz'tes Bingenses. Tacitus (Hist. L. iv. C. '70).
when speaking of the retreat of the Treviri under their leader Tutor, makes mention
of a bridge over'the Nahe, which also owed its existence to Drusus. The roads to
Triers and Cöblentz separated at this place. Willigis renewed this bridge, as'Sera-

rius informs us in the following hyper-elegant monkish rhymes:

Pontem construxit apud Aschafl‘burg, bene duXit
Ac pontem per Nahe: miles transit quoque verna,

Et bene necesse prope Bing-Mausenfi“ dedit esse.

The Roman Bingen lay nearer to the bridge, but after its destruction by the
Allemanni and the Normans, it was removed to its present situation, towards the
end of the ninth century. In the earlier period of the middle ages, Bingen was the
seat of a royal tribunal, and an archiepiscopal manor (curiz’s arc/zz’epz‘scopalis}, and also
the place of receipt {fiscus dominicus, camera, } of the revenues of the archbishopric
in the Lower Rheingau. The thriving Bingen was then called Pinguz'a, Moguntz'me
sedis specz’alz‘s camera. This little town was acquired by the archbishopric of Mentz
under the Emperor Otho II. The tower-gate, which is built of free-stone, and the
font in the old collegiate church, are of Carolingian origin. In this church is pre—
served the. gravestone of Bartholomteus Holzhauser the prophet, who was dean here,
and died in 1658. On St. Bartholomew’s-day, every year, down to our own times,
his grave was festally strewed with flowers and adorned with garlands by virgins.

The melancholy ruins of the nunnery on the Rupertsberg, built by Hildegard, a

* It should have been Binguensem, and Ring-Mäusen is a monkish blunder.

 

72 TOUR ALONG. THE RHINE.

learned enthusiast and prophetess, in the year 1148, were lately Sold, and a wall is
'all that now remains of them. We regret the loss of the picturesque view of the old
ruins of this once so celebrated pious foundation. There the saint, who was diseased
both in body and mind, wrote, or caused her confessor to write to her dictation", her
visions and other works, with many letters, in which the events foreseen have in part
been so singularly realized. The princes and nobles around made pilgrimages to the
prophetess, and after the destruction of this religious house in the Thirty Years war,
the nuns repaired to the small convent at Eu-Bingen (Ibingun, Ibingen), founded as
a priory as early as the twelfth century. Its relics, which have often been mentioned,
were sold a few years ago, when it was suppressed, and are now dispersed+.

Bingen and Mentz were the first places which acceded to the Union of the Towns
on the Rhine. The burg of Klopp was every thing but a protection to the trade of
Bingen. In this burg, the unfortunate Emperor Henry IV. was kept in confinement;
and the Emperor Albert 1. besieged it,'without success, in the war with Mentz on
account of custom-duties: it was in consequence called the invincible house of Klopp.
It became also known from its having been relieved by Cuno von Falkenstein, and
[by this spiritual hero, who effected his escape from Ehrenfels, leaping from a window,
in 1350, in the feud with the Archbishop Gerlach of Mentz. The whole of the
quarter in which it is situated was lately sold, but it remains entire, and is now orna-
mented with beautiful grounds. The burgs of Klopp and Bingen were both occupied
by the French in 1689, and almost wholly burnt down. The fabulous Mice-Tower,

* A proof that learned ladies even then required male assistance to obtain celebrity. It was the
same with Elizabeth of Schönau and Brigitte of Cologne, for visions were then a pious custom.

1- The antique consecrated bason, which credulous tradition derived from the wedding at Cana, is
now possessed by Goethe, to whom it was some time ago given by the author of this book, as an offering
to friendship. The ring of Hildegard, with the expressive inscription, “ Ich leide gern” (I willingly

suffer), has disappeared.

BINGEN.) . n 73:

according toioral tradition, was builtinthe tenthfcentury by the Archbishop Hat‘to I .; „

(or rather Hatto II.), as a watch and toll-tower’l‘ for the passage of the Rhine, on
account of the whirlpool in its vicinity, when Hatto made the river navigable here,
and caused the huge rocks which overhung the Bingerloch on the opposite bank to
be blown up+. The ships of burden, at that time and down to 1650, proceeded no
further than Lorich, where the cargoes were landed, and conveyed over the Kam-A
merberg to Rüdesheim; on which account warehouses were established at both
places; The Bingen toll was first levied at this Mice-Tower, and afterwards at
Ehrenfels. It seems not a little extraordinary, that the Mice-Tower should so long

have braved the floods of icei. From historical documents, it appears that this tower

(of which the plan does not point to an earlier construction) had its origin at 4

the same time with that of the burg of Ehrenfels, and so late as the beginning of
_ the thirteenth century, between 1208 and 1218, under the Archbishop Siegfried II.
It was constructed for the purpose of levying toll, and those who wished to avOid

payment of it were, during the then narrow passage of the Rhine at this place,

* The word mauss ( musse ) does not here signify toll or mauth, but artillery ( muserie ). This town was
first defended by persons who shot with stones and arrows. In 1635, the Swedes destroyed it in their

re treat .

Jr It is probable that the Romans first opened this passage, and navigated the Rhine on the Bingen
side, though only with small vessels. In the year 819, Louis the Pious proceeded down the Rhine from
Bingen to Coblentz. Several rocks on the opposite bank were blown up in the eleventh century under the
Rhinegraves, and the work was completed in the seventeenth century by enterprising mft—traders of

Frankfort.

.. I According to a monkish legend among the old stories of the Rhine, the above Hatto, who, from
the severity of his ecclesiastical discipline, was hated by clergy and people, though in other respects a.
worthy ruler, fled in the time of a famine from Ehrenfels, followed by myriads of swimming mice, to

this tower, where they devoured him!

L

„„ “I.-(NM _ „.... ,

W‘sfip

74 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

detained by the discharge of missiles {gesc/n'itz, muserz'e’“). A similar toll-tower at
Bacharach, on an island in the Rhine, is not Roman, but was probably erected
about the same time with the Mice-Tower, as was Without doubt the Pfalz at Caub,
which also stands on an island in the Rhine. The Bingen toll was long levied at the
burg of Ehrenfels, where the first gunners with their cannon {domierbiic/zscn-f-j were
placed soon after the invention of gunpowder. This secure burg was a favourite
residence ‚of the ancient Archbishops of Mentz. From its ruins the eye now ranges
over the romantic mountains on the opposite side of the river, at the base of which
runs the road from Bingen to Coblentz, the old via Romano, and the new Roman
work of the French and Prussians, who in the construction ef it were obliged to blow
up “a number of large rocks. The steep Miinsterberg above Bingen, where the
dangerous chain of rocks running in a descending ratio from the Niederwald through
the Rhine 'has its termination, incloses as it were the river within narrOwer bounds,
and conducts ‘it along through tremendous heights, that must have been originally
united, and afterWards separated by some violent convulsion of our globe, or some
cometary deluge, by which the immense lake was transformed into a powerful stream.
The Maine and the Nahe, bursting at the same time from their basins, must have,
in conjunction with it, opened this course.

The proud Rhine raves against these cliH's, as if enraged at leaving the splendid
region through which he has been passing, to be hemmed in between ranges of high
and precipitous rocks.

* Muserz'e, an obsolete word, from mus, another obsolete word, signifying a coat of mail, is translated
by Frisch armamentarium, or armory. The persons intrusted with the care of the armory were, in several
places, called muse-meister. The sense here given to this word by the author is new to me. Geschütz may,
like artillery, have originally signified all sorts of missile weapons, but both words are now usually under-
stood to mean fire-arms.—Trans.

+ Donnerbiichsen, literally thunder-boxes. This was the name originally given "to cannons. Muskets,
according to Adelung, were formerly called boxes ( büchse ) in Germany, ab their shape had then a greater,

resemblance to boxes properly so called than they now have—Trans.

 

 

 

 

 

 

75

THE PASSAGE DOWN THE, RHINE To CIOBLENTZ‘.”

Ein Leben wie im Paradies,
Gewährt uns Vater Rhein.

Hour.
.

A life like that in Paradise

We draw from father Rhine.

 

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW.

The Mice-Tower: this fabulous tower stands on a small island in the Rhine, which has long braved
the floods of ice, above the broad Münsterberg at Bingen. The Drudenberg, or Druidenberg, which falls
perpendicularly into the Rhine, and of which we here see the naked sides, is immediately before the
Mfinsterberg. On the opposite side, we see the burg of Ehrenfels, which, along with the Mice-Tower,
‘commanded the narrow entrance into the Binger-loch, a part of the river in former times impassable, and
only rendered navigable by the blowing up of the large rocks which overhung the stream. The ruin

above Ehrenfels, Rossel, commands a noble view of the mountains of the Rhine.

 

No region is so rich in burgs of chivalry and Iove*, and the traditions connected
with them, as the bed of the Rhine from. Bingen to Coblentz. By these traditions,
an existence and an attraction of no ordinary kind arestill communicated to these
ruins, though to many they may appear only in the light of nests of robbers in
ancient times, and habitations for owls in our own.

_ We pass with safety the Rhenish Scylla and Charybdis, the high and towering
Ehrenfels, the guardian of this dread region, and the village of Assmannshausen, well

known on account of its red and fiery wine, which extends itself in a nook on our

‚* The truehistory of these burgs is given hereafter. “ Stories and fables,” says Bodmann in the
Introdimtion to his Rheingau, “ furnish materials for sweet excitements, which we willingly cherish. The
“ wonderous incidents in these stories are the children of certain favourite ideas. and reveries of the

“ middle ages.”

L2

76 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

right. Opposite to it rise the fortresses of Bautsberg or Vautsberg, Rheinstein or
Königstein, and Falkenburg. The deserted church of St. Clement, the origin of
which is ascribed to the vow of a master of a raft, lies beneath them; and high above
them, on a broad elevation, we see the beautiful farm of Pfadberg. The villages of
Heimbach and Drechtingshaüsen, with ranges of little gardens, spread themselves
out along the bank; the burgs of Soneck and Heimburg hover over them. On the op-
posite bank, the rocky Kedrich, called the Devil’s Ladder, now appears in sight.
It received this name because the devil took up his habitation there, and a bold and
amorous knight, who had carried oil“ the heiress of the burg of Lorch, and whose
saddle is preserved in the town-house of Lorch*, sprung up this cliff on horseback.
Steep rocks lead to the melancholy spot where the Wisper unites with the Rhine,
and at the influx stand the ruins of the burg of the Hi’lchen von Lorch. Here we
visit the Sauerthal, with its picturesque fortresses of former times, Sauerburg, Fürs-
teneck, and Heppenheft. We now approach the inviting burg of Sareck‘; and next,
Lorch-hausen, with its ancient walls and modern structures overgrown with vines:
this was the old boundary of the Rheingau; On the opposite bank, the colossal
Fürstenberg towers majestically aloft; and Bacharach, with its white and precipitous ‘
rocks, surrounded with cheerful vineyards, beckons to us as a Roman or German
altar of Bacchus (ara Bacchi}, of which the rock on the island under the old toll-
tower is visible when the water is low in a summer favourable for vines, beside the
wild and dangerous whirlpool. Above Caub, originally the Roman advanced post
Cuba, gleams the memorable burg of Cube. We next see Gudenfels, deriving its

name from (Jutta) Guda-Müringen, or her descendant Guda von Falkenstein, where,

* Lorch (called Larche, Loriche, Lorecha, Lorichium, but not Laureacum, ) occurs in a document of
832, under King Louis I. and is a very old village. It was in the twelfth century already inhabited by a
numerous nobility; it obtained special immunities from the archbishops, had its particular laws, its asses-
serial and Salic tribunal, and its school for‘young nobles ( schuljunkerschafl ). Lorch—hausen had its origin

soon afterwards as a village-colony from Lorch.

PASSAGE T O ‚COBLENTZ. ‘ ’77

in 1268, the German King Richard of Cornwall is said to have made choice of the ,
beautiful Guda-Beatrix for his queen. 'After William of Holland was chosen its
supreme head, the insignia of the Empire were kept there as faithfully as before. The
little tower, immortalized by Gustavus Adolphus, the noble hero of the seventeenth
century, who there gave orders to attack the Spaniards on the left bank, hovers on.
the point of the mountain as if suspended in the air. Our hero Bliicher, in the
proud feeling of victory, crossed the Rhine from the little town of Caub on the
lst January, 1814. The many-towered insular burg of Pfalz, or Pfalzgrafenstein,
built in all probability by Conrad of Hohenstaufen (brother of the Emperor Fre-
deric 1.), and the cradle of the Palsgrave Herman von Staleck, which at a distance
appears like a vessel in the ocean, facilitated this passage. In this burg, certainly a
receptacle too confined for noble and virtuous dames, fabulous tradition tells us,
that every palsgravine’F was obliged to remain during the timeof her childbed.

Welch ein stolzes Schloss entsteiget

Hier dem grünen Rhein?
Wenn die Fluth dem Ruder weichet,
Scheint’s belebt zu seyn.

Wie ein Kriegschifi“ kommt’s geflogen,

Auf den schnell bewegten Wogen;

Streckt der Thürm‘" und Thürmlein viele

Wind und Rhein zum holden Spiele.
BRAUN.

What proud dome its head uprears
From the Rhine’s green wave?
As our vessel onward steers,

Life it seems to have:

‘.“ Pflzlzgrilfin: the German female termination of in has been adopted in margravinc, and as gfalzgraf
(palsgrave), and markgraf (margrave), are substantially the same dignity, the former being count of the
palace, and the latter count of the marches, I conceive myself here warranted in the use of this termi—
nation, though fully sensible of the impropriety of perplexing the English with‘the introduction or

terminations derived from another language.—Trans.

'78 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Like a war-ship in full sail,
Bearing down before the gale, ,
It spreads out tow’rs and turrets gray,

With the Rhine and breeze to play.

This burg was destroyed in the Thirty Years war; it was afterwards repaired,
‚and in 1784, it received a white coating.

Behind the pleasant old imperial town of Oberwesel* (Vesalz'a, Ficclz'a, the birth-
place of the enlightened J oannes de Vesalia), and beyond its productive slate-quarries,
rises the burg of Schönberg—f; and the romantic rocky points of the icy Seven
‚Virgins, who, according to sweet tales, were metamorphosed into stone, because they

remained deaf to their wooersi, are to be seen in dry weather emerging from the

bosom of the Rhine.

The salmon-fishery is more certain and productive along the dark rocky cliffs of
the majestic stream, especially at the foot of the _Lurlei, where fishing-boats, at
anchor, lie in wait for their prey. This wonderful hill, so beautifully celebrated by

' Oberwesel (and with still greater probability, Selz,) was the Roman Saliso. Here there was a Frankish
royal court. In the collegiate church, whichflpossesses a splendid portal, built by Archbishop Baldwin
in 1338, there are two remarkable old German altar-pieces. May they remain undisturbed in their
holy depository! The side chapel contains various gravestones of the family von Schönberg.

+ There are plays upon words and allusions here in the original, which, as they are unintelligible in
a translation, I have omitted. The original is, die nicht Belmontische doch Schombergisclle, Heldenburg
Schönberg; literally, the Schomberg, though not Belmont, heroic burg of Schönberg. Schönberg and Bel-
mont both mean beautiful hill. The author calls the burg heroic, as I conjecture, from its belonging to
the family of the famous Marshal de Schomberg, who was killed in the battle of the Boyne. The name
' Schomberg is evidently a corruption of Schönberg, and is also synonymous with Belmont. Belmonte
and Belmont are the names of several well-known places of Naples, France, and Portugal.—Trans.

1 These stonesgare said to have reference to the seven beautiful daughters of the Gaugrave Louis I.
von Arnstein, who also possessed Oberwesel and the Trachgan, though these daughters entered into the
marriage state. 0J1 this subject the reader will find further particulars in the third volume of the Rhenish

Stories and Traditions, by N. Vogt, who may be considered the Voltaire of German history.

PASSAGE TO COBLENTZ. 79

the love-poet Marner* as early as the twelfth century, is still the habitation of a
kindly echo, which, from the caverned and broken rocks, repeatedly gives back the
whole of the words uttered within a certain distance of them-f.

As we proceed, we perceive the commanding burg of New-Katzenelnbogen, also
called the Katze (Cat), towering above Goarshausen, which has been embellished by
new buildings, and of which the picturesque Miihlenthali is well deserving of an
excursion. This fortress was built in 1390 by the trusty John III. the founder of
the line of New-Katzenelnbogen, and seems on the point of springing on the Mouse,
another burg rising up beneath it. On the opposite bank we discover the fortress of
Rheinfels, which protects the lively little town of St. Goar, a custom-house station,
and which was fruitlessly besieged by the French in 1699, though it was gained by
them in 1794. At this place there was first a castellum of the Mattiaci, and after—'
wards a convent, called Mattenburg or Marterburg, till Count Diether III. of Katz-
enelnbogen, built there, in 1245, the toll-burg of Rheinfels ( R/zenofelda ), which,
among other things, gave rise to the defensive and offensive alliance of the trading
towns on the Rhine. In 1255 it was besieged by sixty of these towns, by water and
by land, though without effect. St. Goar, a pious hermit of Aquitaine, from whom
(and not from Sandbank-Gewirre .or Sandgewer,) this little town derives its name,
converted the salmon-fishers here in the year 570, and his gravestone was to be seen
in the church, which was also ornamented with Hessian monuments§. The country

** See a note respecting the mime-singers, or love-poets, p. SO,—Trans.

+ The old German name Lurelei comes from [allen, or lallen, to stammer, and ley, a rock; consequently
it signifies Rock-sound.

1' Literally Mill—dale or Mill-valley.—Trans.

§ The chapel of the saint stood on the brink of the Rhine. The fabulous iron collar, famous on
account of the reconciliation of Charles and Pepin, and with which economical jokes were formerly prac:
tised, has now disappeared from the toll-gate. The cup, however, with the head of Charlemagne, and
the crown, both of tin, are still preserved in the Lily Inn. The cup is said to have been received from

Queen Christina of Sweden. Thepguests enter their names in an old matriculation-book.

80 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

ro’und St. Goar was called in ancient times Trichorium, and afterwards Tricher or
Trachgau. Before St. Goar, which lies in a caldron environed as it were by steep
rocks, is the dangerous bank and the whirlpool called the Gewirr (Perplexity), which
threatens the safety of navigators. According to a Rhenish story, whatever is swal-
lowed by the whirlpool at Bingen comes up here. Further down, in a charming
valley, the scene of many a popular tradition, Welmich appears, beside the pictu—
resque ruins of the old conventual church, and the elevated Thrünberg, Themen—
berg, and Thurnberg, called also the Mouse and Kuno’s burg, where the spiritual
hero Kuno, when at variance with the chapter of Triers, ceded the archbishopric
in 1388 to his cousin Werner von Falkenstein, and died immediately afterwards.
Before the former convent and place of pilgrimage of Bornhofen, Which is Connected
with Kamp by a row of walnut-trees, we still perceive, in the magical light of older

times, rich in love-stories and tales, the elegiac ruins of Liebenstein and Sterrenberg:

Sieh, noch thronen sie da, die romantischen Burgen der Brüder,
Svieh das Kloster im Thal, welches die Liebenden barg!
Horch! es kühden die Felsen umher solch hartes Geschick an, '

Und in den Trümmern verhallt schmelzender Klagegesang.

See where the brothers’ burgs romantic rise,
And see the convent in the vale which bid

The lovers ! Hark! the rocks around announce
Their cruel fate, and from the ruin’d piles

The melting strains of sorrow meet the ear.

There dwelt at first magnanimity and love, and afterwards hatred and dissension,
till unanimity and repentance again reconciled the divided brothers. They were
evidently in love with the same beauty, but scarcely was she betrothed to the younger,
when he departed as a Crusader for Palestine, from whence he returned with a
Grecian lady possessed of great attractions. The lady to whom he had been be-

trothed, and who now found herself deceived, entered the neighbouring convent,

‚.PASSAGE TO C.OBLENTZ..._ 31.

and the alluring stranger wasobliged to flee. The two brothers, after a long sepa-
ration, now laid aside theirdissensions, and both died unmarried*..

Salzig, the cherry-garden of Coblentz, appears before us on our left; and on
our right we see Klosterkamp, or Kämpen (Campus), a Roman. camp with a cas-
tellum, of . which the agger is still visible on the brow of the hilHu Opposite to this
is Boppard, the ancient Bodobriga, a fortress. in the time of the Romans, and where
there was also a Frankish royal palace. The. elegant burg of Liebeneck,twhich has;
been rebuilt, and is still inhabited, .now presents itself invitingly to our View. Tre-
mendous heights succeed; and in the narrow Miihlthal, a glen animated by forges,
springs the medicinal well of Dinkhold. The Marxburg, which protectingly received
the deeply humiliated Emperor Henry IV. rises from a high and pointed hill above
Braubach, a place possessed of two mineral wells. Braubach is remarkablefor the-
singular burl: in the pronunciation of its inhabitants, and its significant /zysterolit/zi§.

Oberlahnstein, where the Emperor Wenceslas was dispossessed of his dignity by the

* The real facts in this case are these: Bayer von Boppard possessed Sternberg and Liebenstein
about the year 1350: the latter possession came into the hands of the Schenk von Osterspen family, and
the former into the hands of the family of Br'omser von Rüdesheim. The fair-one in question was a
Br'omser, and died in the convent of Marienberg at Boppard.

1* It is conjectured that Caligula was born in the camp (in castris) here, and Kamp is supposed to be-

the Roman vicus Ambiatinus; though this virus may also have been situated at the bathing-place of Embs,

which is at an equal distance from Coblentz. Pliny the younger, and Suetonius after him, on this sub-

ject say, In Treviris, vico Ambiatino, supra Confluentes. -

]; Sc/morr-sprache.—-—Schnorren, or schnarren, is to pronounce the letter r in the manner of the people
of Northumberland, Denmark, and several parts of the north of Germany. The French call this pecu-
liarity parler gras, but I am not aware that there is any recognised English word for it. I have here adopted
the word applied to the manner of speaking of the Northumbrians by the people of the contiguous

counties—Trans.

§ These petrifactions have been by some derived from the eleven thousand virgins who took refuge

here. Credat Judßus Apella.
M

82 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Rhenish electors in the year I400, seems to float past in the clear mirror of the
Rhine. At Rees (Rhense), on the opposite side, we still see on the bank the place
where the king’s chair stood. The» archbishops and electors of the Rhine, so power-
ful in former times, met together on their own frontiers and on their own ground,
and first elected the emperor in this chair, which has lately been destroyed.

We now approach Stolzenfels, and opposite to it Lahneck (now the frontier-angle
(grenz—ec/r’“) of the duchy of Nassau), with Niederlahnstein, at the influx of the
Lahn, where the low German dialect commences. Here the romantic range of burgs
and old habitations closes. A new world opens to our view as we draw near to the
delightful Coblentz, with its richly adorned banks and islands; and Ehrenbreitstein,
on the opposite bank, fast recovering from its ruined state, surrounded by the most

beautiful regions of Rhenish Prussia.

 

THE BURGS ON THE RHINE BETWEEN BINGEN AND
COBLENTZ.

KLOPP.

ON an elevation above the town of Bingen, we see the ruins of the old fortress
of Klopp, or Clopp, which in former times was so famous for its strength, that it
received on that account the appellation of inm'ncible+.

There can be no question that it was originally one of the fifty castella constructed-
by Nero, Claudius, Drusus, and Germanicus, on the Rhine, to cover that river from
the attacks of the barbarians. It was the station of the milz'tes Bingenses, who thence
received their name.

* Eck in German means angle; and Lahneck is the Angle of the Lahm—Trans.

1‘ This appellation was given to it on account of the resistance which it made in 1301 to King Albert I.

The town of Mentz received also, in the verses prefixed to its ancient book, called the Friedensbuch, the

title of invicta, nobilis, aurea, dye.

KLOPP. ’ ' " 83

4 It is'- more than probable that the burg of Klopp occupies the very spot where the
castelluin formerly stood. The origin of its name, as well as the period Of the de-
struction of the castellum and the erection of the burg, are altogether a problem.
The latter is named in a document of the year 1282, along with the forts of Rüde-
sheim, Scharfenstein, and Starkenburg, as burgs belonging to Mentz- It had, as a
head land-burg or head-burg of a tract of country, its burggraves, its burgmen, its
burg-frida’“, and its burg-jurisdiction (burg/2mm). It always possessed a strong gar—
rison, excellent arms, and artillery for its defence. It served, as is well known, as a
prison, for twenty-four hours, to the unfortunate Emperor Henry IV. whom his un-
gracious son, on an understanding with the Archbishop of Mentz, shut up in it in
the year 1105.

In the well-known war on account of the duties of the Rhine between Albert I.
King of the Romans and the Archbishop Gerhard II. of Mentz (1301), the former
took the town of Bingen by storm, but he could not gain the burg of Klopp. On
the peace which followed, of which the terms were so severe, the archbishop was
indeed obliged to deliver up to the king Bingen, Klopp, Ehrenfels, Scharfenstein,
and Lahnstein,land to enter into conditions, the entire publication of which the
archbishop, from a regard to his dignity, was induced to prohibit for all succeeding
times. It was not till the time of Henry‘ VII. and Louis IV. that the Archbishop
Peter gradually regained possession of the fortress of Klopp, and the other castles
and revenues of which the see had been deprived.

Henry von Virneburg, appointed by the papal chair Archbishop of Mentz, in
opposition to the Archbishop Baldwin of Triers, administrator of the archbishopric,
was under the necessity of ceding to the chapter of Mentz the fortresses of Klopp,
Landskron (above Oppenheim), Ehrenfels, Starkenburg, Lahneck, and Miltenberg,

* In the original burg-friede, literally burg-peace. I have adopted the Latinized German word of
Du Cange. Burg-friede was a certain tract round a town or castle, within which it was necessary to ob-

serve peace, under certain penalties.-—Trans.

M2

84 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

' in order to induce them to acknowledge him. This was 'fOllbwed by the disg'raCeful
dissz'dium between the Archbishops Henry and' his adversary Gerlach von Nassau.
After the death of Henry in 1353, the latter obtained quiet possession of the arch-
bishopric, and with the sum of 40,000 florins he got rid of Cuno von Falkenstein,
the administrator, as a security for which sum he delivered to him Klopp and Bingen
in pledge: both were, however, redeemed very soon afterwards (in 1356) by Arch-'
bishop Gerlach, on payment of the sum for which they Were pledged.

Klopp and Bingen "came into the possession of the chapter of Mentz under the
Archbishop Conrad III. in the fifteenth century, and from that time downwards
the chapter contrived to retain their acquisition by means of capitulations on the
election of the archbishops. In 1639, Klopp was taken by the heroic bands Of
Bernard of Weimar,“ and held by them till 1640. In 1644, the French obtained
possession of it; and in the Orleans war of 1689, they blew it entirely Up, and laid
nearly the whole of the town of Bingen in ashes at the same time. Since that
period this ancient and important fortress of the venerable archbishopric has lain,
and still lies, buried in ruins, the remains Of which bear testimony to' its former

power and greatness.

EHRENFELS.

This burg, according to oral tradition, owes its existence to the Archbishop
Hatto II. or to Hatto I. when he blew up the rocks at the Binger-loch, rendered
the Rhine navigable at that place, and at the same time built the toll or Mice-Tower.
But it would appear from documents, that the burg of Ehrenfels was erected in the
beginning of the thirteenth century, about 1218, by Philip 11. von Bolanden', 'vice-
gerent of the Rheingau under the Archbishop Siegfried II. of Mentz, at the same

time with the Mice-Tower, which resembles it in the style of its architecture and

its ornaments; and consequently that it is of a date later by above three hundred —

VAUTSBERG. " 85

years than the death of Hatto I. The only access to it was ‘by 'a narrOW path, which
is still called the Ass-path. The ruins of walls which are to be seen beneath it,
were probably the Rhirietoll-houSe built by the Sv'vedesWhen" they ‚brought back the
Bingen toll. ' ' ' ' ’ ' " ’

Fro'm'docunients,‘ it appears’that the right of the productive'toll on the Rhine,
_ which in the Thirty Years war was transported to Bingen, Still remained vested in
Ehrenfels in the last century. In the year 1301, the burg "came into the possession
of King Albert, who kept 'it "till 1314. 'It was afterwards pledged to Clino von Fal‘k-
enstein, who, in 1350, was enabled by means of it to keep Klopp and Bingen in
check; but in 1356 it was redeemed.

About 1344, after gunpowder had been invented, and guns had been constructed,
a fire-shooter (z'gnis sagz'ttm'z'us} was stationed here. Ehrenfels was, at the same time,
a secure and favourite residenceof the Archbishops of Mentz before the erection of
the burg at Elfeld, and an asylum for the treasures of the chapter, who first obtained
from Gerlach, in 1363, the right of keeping them there. ‚At length, however, this
burg was stormed by the Swedes in 1631, partly destroyed by them in 1635, and
completely destroyed by the French in 1689, to whom it was a rock of shame’l‘ {schmid—

fels+).

_

VAUTSBERG.

Between the church of St. Clement and the Rupertsberg, on a high rook, stand

the ruins of the castle of Vautsberg or Voitsberg, which, in maps and modern'pub-

‘ * To understand this, it may be necessary to observe, that Ehrerfels means Rock of Honour.——Trans.

+ On the evening of the 25th September, 1818, this burg (of which there is still one tower in good
preservation) appeared again in the splendour becoming a rock of honour (Ehrenfels), lighted up by
three thousand lamps and six bonfires, to celebrate the passage of the good Emperor Francis from Biebrich

to Bingen, amidst the acclamations of the populace.

86 TOUR ALONG: THE “RHINE.

lications, is called ‘Bautzberg, Pfaltzberg, &c. and which was formerly a place of
great strength.

- Its name is probably derived from Faut or Vogt’", and it is alleged that it was
constructed by a Vogt of Bingen. It occurs in a document of the year 1348, under
the name of .Vatsberg. Cuno von Falkenstein, administrator of the archbishOpric
of Mentz, here audited the accounts of , the clerk of the customs of Ehrenfels. The
same administrator, in his contract with Archbishop Gerlach in 1354, reserved to
himself this burg during his lifetime. In this contract it is called Fautzberg.

There are no later accounts of this place, and they probably were destroyed at a

remote period.

REICHENSTEIN.

The ruins of this old den of robbers, which is also called Rheinstein and Ryn-
stein, consist properly of two burgs, situated close to each other, on rocky eminences
below Bingen and opposite to Assmannshausen, of which the one is called König-
stein, and the other Rheinstein; though the former name does not occur in docu-
, ments.

The time of its erection is uncertain, but the name of Reichenstein occurs as
early as the year 1235, when Wernher VI. von Bolanden subscribed himself also
von Reichenstein. After his death in 1241, it came into the possession of his brother,
Philip I. von Hohenfels. It was destroyed by the Union of the Towns of the Rhine
in 1282: Soneck shared the same fate; and all that were taken in both were, with-
out regard to their rank, hanged by order of the highest authority of the Empire.

The intercession of a Count von Waldeck and several noblemen with the Emperor

* Faut or Fauth and Vogt may be translated prefect, and are derived from the Latin word advocatm;°

-Tmns.

FALKENB‘URG. 87

Rudolph I. had. no effect, and the well-known declaration of the monarch, when he
rejected their applicatiOn,» was truly noble. He said, “ Robbers I do not protect.”
The Palsgraves Louis and Rudolph restored this burg in the beginning of the
fourteenth century; but the erection was in the territories of Mentz, and Archbishop
Peter, on that account, received it back in the year 1314; and Louis, as King of
the Romans, confirmed the proceeding in the year 1315. Archbishop Gerlach?
mortgaged it, in the year 1347, to the Palsgrave Rupert; who, however, did not
long remain in possession of it. It was afterWards given in pledge by Archbishop
Henry to Cuno von Falkenstein, provost of the cathedral, but redeem-ed again in
1356. ‘
In the controverted election of John II. von Nassau and Godfrey von Leiningen,
the latter, without the privity of the chapter, took possession of this burg, which
gave rise to a protest on the part of the chapter. Nothing more is heard of it after
this time, and it is probable that it was again destroyed in the fifteenth century.
Another burg of the name of Reichenstein was situated near Andernach, and
belonged to the lords of that name, who are frequently mentioned in documents.
An equestrian family of Reichenstein is also well known, but the mention of it does

not properly belong to this place.

FALKENBURG.

The ruins of this old burg appear above the village of Dreyeckshausen. Its
origin, history, and destruction are altogether unknown; it was in all probability
destroyed at a very remote period. F reher derives the place and name of Dreyecks-
hausen from the Emperor Trajan, calls it castrum Trajam', and settles in it the legz'o
Troja/ni; and adds, that this Roman castellum afterwards gave way to the burg of
Falkenburg, which was built in place of it: but all this belongs to the traditions
with which the ignorance of early ages has obscured the history of the Rhine. Its

88. TOUR ALONG THE 'RHINE.

proper name is Dreydingshausen, because three cantons had here a common ding, or
court, with which they passed from the hands of the Bolanden family to the abbey
of Cornelimiinster, and from it, by purchase in the thirteenth century, to the cathe-
dral and convent of the Virgin at Mentz. The Palsgraves Rudolph and Louis
disturbed the possessors, and, according to a document of the year 1314 (Gud. III.
101.), used great violence towards the three places, on which occasion the burg must
have been destroyed. .

Falkenburg was probably built in the thirteenth century, by the rich and powerful
Lords of Bolanden, who, as early as the year 1235, possessed the property of

Drechtingshausen, with the two cantons of Ober and Nieder-Heimbach.

SONECK, OR SANECK.

On the extreme point of the Soonwald, of so much celebrity in ancient times,
between Drechtingshausen and Nieder—Heimbach, we perceive the ruins of the old
burg of Soneck, for Saneck, on a rock by the Rhine. Its origin goes back to the
13th century, and it probably owed its existence to a society of nobles (ganerbschaflfl,
who converted this burg into a nest of thieves. It was in consequence besieged, at
the same time with Reichenstein, in the year 1282, by order of King Rudolph I.
and taken by storm and destroyed, on which occasion its defenders and inhabitants
were all hanged.

Soneck was, however, rebuilt in the fourteenth century, and bestowed on a feudal
or burg-mannvf tenure, for the protection of families living agreeably to the laws.

Among these was a branch of the Wide-spread old Rhenish equestrian family of

* See a note on the subject of this word p. 25.—Trans.
+ Burg-manns-weise.——Burg-mann was a feudal vassal of a burg or castle, who was not bound to serve
in military expeditions, but merely to live in the castle, and defend it when necessary.—-—See SQHILTER

(voce Bürger alias Burg-marine),- DU CANGE (voce Ganerbii).——Trans.

“ "m

' - HEIMBURG.’ . 89 -'-

Waldeck, which thence took the name of 'Waldeck von Saneck, and held the oflice
of hereditary marshal of Mentz, which devolved by inheritance to the Waldecks of
Ueben. In the sequel this burgvseems to have become a true Waldeck ganerben-
house.

After the extinction of the Waldecks von Saneck, we hear nothing more of this

burg: it probably fell into gradual "decay, or was again destroyed. .

HEIMBURG.

The ruins of this considerable burg lie above the village of Nieder-Heimbach.
The time of its erection is unknown, but goes back at least to the thirteenth century".
In the year 1353, it was delivered over in pledge to Cuno von Falkenstein, admini-
strator of the archbishopric; but restored in 1362 to the see of Mentz. Neither in
the document of 1314 respecting Fürstenberg, nor in another of the year 1317, in
which Louis IV. King of the Romans, directs the inhabitants of Ober and Nieder-
Heimbach to do homage to the Archbishop Peter of Mentz, is there the least mention
of this burg. It probably experienced the fate of many other burgs of the Rhine,
which were destroyed in 1282, but afterwards rebuilt some time previous to 1354.

When the electorate of Mentz obtained tranquil possession of Ober and Nieder-
Heimbach and Drechtingshausen, with the burg of Heimburg, they were separated
from the vicegerency of the Rheingau, though the burg of Heimburg still remained
the seat of a sub-bailiff, whose authority extended over these three places; a state
of things which continued down to the year 1438. After this, the burg either fell

into decay, or was destroyed in war.

90 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

.FUERSTENECK AND NOLLINGEN.
The strong burg of Fürsteneck, which was built, in 1348, by Cuno von Falk-

enstein, dean or provost of the chapter of Mentz, and administrator of the diocese,
by order of the Archbishop Henry of Mentz, was situated above the village of Lorch.
It became very famous at an early period, and could boast of a number of noble
burgmen, who mostly resided in Lorch; (for instance, the Hilchen von Lorch,
Marschälle von Lorch, vOn Breitenbach, von Stein, von Riedt, von Schönberg,
Waldeck von Ueben, von Saneck, Marsch'alle von Waldeck, Stumpfe von Wal-
deck, &c.
_ When Archbishop Gerlach, on the death of his opponent, Henry von Birneburg,
obtained quiet possession of the archbishopric, his first care was to get rid of its
burdensome administrators, and more particularly of Cuno. Through the mediation
of the Emperor Charles IV. and various princes, counts, and lords of the Empire,
he entered into an arrangement with Cuno in 1354, in virtue of which the latter was
promised an indemnification of 40,000 florins, for the payment of which the burgs
of Reichenstein, Fürsteneck, and Heimburg were to be delivered in pledge to him:
they were redeemed, however, by Archbishop Gerlach, as early as the year 1356,
for 41,000 florins.

This burg must have gone to decay soon afterwards, as there is no mention of it
in the many documents of Lorch between 1350 and 1450.

Opposite to Fürsteneck, on the other side of the VVisper, lie the ruins of another
old but smaller burg, called Nollingen or Nolicht, which probably belonged to the
family of Hilchen von Lorch.

KAMMERBERG.

By this name is known a ruined castle on a hill on the right bank of the Wisper,
near the burg of Rheinberg and the pass of the White Tower, a league distant from

RHEINBERG. 91

Lorch. It lay within the bounds of the archiepiscopal forest of Mentz, and seems
to have been originally a hunting—seat of the see. Its fate is unknown. It was for-
tified after the model of other forest-castles, and had its burgmen. The White

Tower, a more recent structure, served it for a bulwark to the left on the Wisper.

RHEINBERG.

Above the town of Kaub, in the mountains behind the village of Ransel, on the
Wisper, we perceive the ruins of the burg of Rheinberg or Rynberg, formerly a
place of great strength and celebrity: when it was built is not known. It was held
by the Rhinegraves, as early as the thirteenth century, as a fief of the archbishopric
of Mentz. The Rhinegraves again received other vassals and burgmen into it, in
the number of whom was the equestrian family von Rheinberg or Rynberg, a family
which became extinct in the seventeenth century.

This burg was a true nest of robbers in the thirteenth century. It was taken and
destroyed by Archbishop Wernher in the year 1279: it was rebuilt, however, soon
afterwards, and a part of it was ceded to the Palsgraves. The possessors in common
of this mountain-burg resigned the propérty and inheritance of it, in 1399, into
the hands of the Palsgrave Rupert, whom they even elected a member of their com-
munity, and received it back from him as a male and female fief. They again
presented it, in 1466, to the Elector Frederic I.* and received it back as a male fiefi
on which a common burg-peace was entered into and sworn with him.

A tower and a few remains are all that now preserve the memory of this once

famous burg, which, with the village of Sauerthal and the Sauerburg belonging to

* Pfalzgraf, in English count of the palace or palatine, which, according to custom, I have trans-
lated Palsgrave, was the title of the Elector Palatine of the Rhine, the Elector here alluded to, and the
different branches of that family—Trans.

N2

92 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

it, was disposed of by the Palsgrave Philip, and ceded 'to the Counts of Sickingen

as a fief of the Palatinate*.

FUERSTENBERG.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW.

Above the village of Rhein-Dippach, which stretches itself pleasantly along the margin of the glassy
stream, we perceive the burg of Fürstenberg, enthroned on a colossal rock, partly overgrown with
vines. The extensive wood-covered heights of the primeval forest called Sonnen or Sonn—wald, rise
softly behind, and command it. At some distance lies the village of Nieder-Heimbach, by the Rhine,
at the base of the Sonnenwald, with its burg, called the Heimburg, which is not elevated; and above
both, rises the burg of Sonneck, on its rocky hill. On the opposite side of the river is the romantic

Devil’s Ladder, in the tremendous precipices which rise from the stream.

This old and beautiful burg, now also in ruins, lies above Rhein-Dippach, ‚On a
steep but not high hill. Its origin is equally unknown, butprobably goes back to
the first half of the thirteenth century; for it is mentioned, so early asthe year 1243,
among the fiefs which Palsgrave Otto the Illustrious obtained from the Archbishop
Conrad of Cologne. It soon afterwards (1255) became an allodial property of the
Electorate Palatine.

Ulrich von Stein was here received as burgman in the year 1291 by the Palsgrave
Louis I. In the year 1292, Count Adolphus of Nassau, elected King of the Romans,
was, on his return from Aix-la-Chapelle, detained before this burg, and forced to
pay the toll. The Palsgraves Rudolph and Louis mortgaged it in the year 1313, and
when they afterwards wished to redeem it, and ”the mortgagee refused to relinquish

it, it was besieged and taken by King Louis IV. and made over in 1324 to Marga-

* See Descr. bon. Rheingmv. (in _Kremer’sOm‘gg Nass. P. II. 217). N. Heusser (Bodmann). Abhand—
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„’ SARECK.-—SA UE‘RBURG. 93

retha of Holland, his queen, as a security for. her marriage-gift. Numerous docu—
ments, dated from this place, prove that it was the frequent residence of the Pals-
graves.

This burg was taken possession of by the Swedes in 1632, and plundered on
their retreat; but burnt and wholly destroyed by the more savage French in the year
1689. Its name is held in grateful remembrance on account of the highly prized

Fürstenberg wine.

SARECK.
Above the village (flecken) of Lorcherhausen, which is the termination of the
Rheingau, we perceive, on the Bischofl'sberg, the ruins of the burg of Sareck, of

which not even the slightest accounts can be found.

SAUE RBURG, OR SURBURG.

This burg is one league to the south-east of Kaub, in the village of Heiligenberg,
or Sauerthal, as it is called; and beneath it lies the little village of Sauerthal. Both
of them belonged formerly to the Rheingau, but in the course of time it became,
like Rheinberg, a possession of the Palatinate. Count Henry von Spanheim, in the
year 1290, alienated several estates and privileges in the village of Suerburn to the
Palsgrave Louis II. In the burg—peace which the Palsgraves Rudolph and the two
Ruperts entered into with one another in the year 1339, the fortress of Sauerburg
was included.

In the year 1355, Archbishop Gerlach of Mentz empowered the Palsgrave
Rupert to build the castle of Sauerburg; with the reservation, however, of access to
it. In this year authority was given to Count John von Katzenelnbogen‚ the here-
ditary burgman of the Palsgrave, to make it available to himself against every one.

By the family compacts of 1378 and 1395, this burg was to remain with the Pala-

‘ so.. “im;

94 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

tinate; but the Elector Philip sold it, along with the village of Sauerthal and two
seats, in 1505, for 1000 florins, to his marshal, Philip von Kronberg, who was in-
vested with it as a flef. Through a female of the family von Kronberg, the burg
came in 1617 into the hands of John Richard Brömser von Rüdesheim; and through
Anna Eleonora, his daughter, into the hands of William von Metternich; and lastly,
in 1692, through his daughter Anna Margaretha, into the hands of Francis von
Sickingen, whose family still continues to possess it. In 1689, it was burnt down and.
razed by the French. The burg and valley take their names from mineral waters,

of which the age is thereby established.

HEPPENHEF T.

High in the mountains near the village of Weisel, in the jurisdiction of Kaub,
in the duchy of Nassau, appear the ruins of the burg of Heppenheft, formerly a
place of great consideration. It was included in the burg-peaces which the Pals-
graves Rudolph-and the two Ruperts concluded with one another in 1339 and 1361,
and which comprehended the fortresses of Cube, Pfalzgrafenstein, Surburg, and
Heppenheft. It lay within the bounds of the Rheingau, and was subject to the
jurisdiction of the Elector of Mentz.

An equestrian family of consideration, which wore the ministerial ribbon of
Mentz and the Palatinate at the same time, derived its name of von Heppenheft
from this burg. This family possessed considerable estates in the Rheingau, and
belonged incontestibly to the most ancient noble families of that blessed tract of
country. As early as the year 1147, a Conrad von Heppenheft was minister of
Mentz. Afterwards, in 1263 Henry, and in 1310 John, Knights of Heppenheft,

are mentioned as burgraves of Kaub. Emmerich von Heppenheft appears in 1440

as the last of this family.

STALECK. 95

In 1409, Gerlach purchased this burg from Gran von Rynberg‚ conveyed it to
the Elector Palatine as a fief, and became bound in return to allow access to it. It
soon, however, fell into decay, and was converted into a farm-house, which, with
the lands belonging to it, came by inheritance into the hands of Francis Matthias
Starck, who, in 1677, refused to do homage for this male fief tothe feudal superior.
On this, the Elector Charles Louis ordered the lands to bessold in parts, which then

came into the hands of the inhabitants of the commune of Wiesel.

STALECK.

Above the town of Bacharach, between the Kuhlberg and Vautsberg, on a steep
and high rock close to the Rhine, appear the ruins of the burg of Staleck, formerly
a place of very great strength. It occurs for the first time in a document in the year
1190, under the name of Stalekum. Brother Eberhard, who in 1180 founded the
convent of Chumd (Comeda) at Simmern, was, it is said, born in this burg; and his
father, Wolfram von Staleck, was a retainefl‘ of the Palsgrave Conrad. This Con-
rad obtained in 1156, as a fief from Cologne, the burg of Staleck as it was formerly
possessed by Palsgrave Hermann von Staleck, along with the dominion over Bacha-
rach. Gosmin von Staleck, who is mentioned in a document of 1135, was in all
probability his father: hence it appears that the burg was then in existence.

It afterwards came, with the town and jurisdiction of Bacharach, into the pos-
session of the house of Wittelsbach, and was for ever united with the County Pala-

tine of the Rhine. The Palsgraves appointed their burgraves over this burg, and

a“ Dienstmann in the original, which I have translated retainer, but this does not convey its. full mean-
ing. It cerresponds to ministerz'alis in the Latin of the middle ages, a word that, in its more restricted
signification, was applied to those persons who possessed court fiefs, for which they were bound to certain
court services, and were subject to the court laws, in contradistinction to vassals properly so called.

They were mostly of the inferior nobility or gentlemen, though often also of the higher.——Tr(ms.

94 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

tinate; but the Elector Philip sold it, along with the village of Sauerthal and two
seats, in 1505, for 1000 florins, to his marshal, Philip von Kronberg, who was in-
vested with it as a fief. Through a female of the family von Kronberg, the burg
came in 1617 into the hands of John Richard Brömser von Rüdesheim; and through
Anna Eleonora, his daughter, into the hands of William von Metternich; and lastly,
in 1692, through his daughter Anna Margaretha, into the hands of Francis von
Sickingen, whose family still continues to possess it. In 1689, it was burnt down and

razed by the French. The burg and valley take their names from mineral waters,

of which the age is thereby established.

HEPPENHEF T.

High in the mountains near the village of Weisel, in the jurisdiction of Kaub,
in the duchy of Nassau, appear the ruins of the burg of Heppenheft, formerly a
place of great consideration. It was included in the burg-peaces which the Pals-
graves Rudolph and the two Ruperts concluded with one another in 1339 and 1361,
and which comprehended the fortresses of Cube, Pfalzgrafenstein, Surburg, and
Heppenheft. It lay within the bounds of the Rheingau, and was subject to the
jurisdiction of the Elector of Mentz.

An equestrian family of ' consideration, which wore the ministerial ribbon of
Mentz and the Palatinate at the same time, derived its name of von Heppenheft
from this burg. This family possessed considerable. estates in the Rheingau, and
belonged incontestibly to the most ancient noble families of that blessed tract of
country. As early as the year 1147, a Conrad von Heppenheft was minister of
Mentz. Afterwards, in 1263 Henry, and in 1310 John, Knights of Heppenheft,

are mentioned as burgraves of Kaub. Emmerich von Heppenheft appears in 1440
as the last of this family.

agents”: ‘ — ‘

STALECK. 95

In 1409, Gerlach purchased this burg from Gran von Rynberg, conveyed it to
the Elector Palatine as a flef, and became bound in return to allow access to it. It
soon, however, fell into decay, and was converted into a farm-house, which, with
the lands belonging to it, came by inheritance into the hands of Francis Matthias
Starck, who, in 1677, refused to do homage for this male fief tothe feudal superior.
On this, the Elector Charles Louis ordered the lands to bevsold in parts, which then

came into the hands of the inhabitants of the commune of Wiesel.

STALECK.

Above the town of Bacharach, between the Kiihlberg and Vautsberg, on a steep
and high rock close to the Rhine, appear the ruins of the burg of Staleck, formerly
a place of very great strength. It occurs for the first time in a document in the year
1190, under the name of Stalekum. Brother Eberhard, who in 1180 founded the
convent of Chumd ( Comeda ) at Simmern, was, it is said, born in this burg; and his
father, Wolfram von Staleck, was a retainer* of the Palsgrave Conrad. This Con-
rad obtained in 1156, as a flef from Cologne, the burg of Staleck as it was formerly
possessed by Palsgrave Hermann von Staleck, along with the dominion over Bacha—
rach. Gosmin von Staleck, who is mentioned in a document of 1135, was in all
probability his father: hence it appears that the burg was then in existence.

It afterwards came, with the town and jurisdiction of Bacharach, into the pos-
session of the house of Wittelsbach, and was for ever united with the County Pala-

tine of the Rhine. The Palsgraves appointed their burgraves over this burg, and

* Dienstmann in the original, which I have translated retainer, but this does not convey its. full mean-
ing. It corresponds to ministerialis in the Latin of the middle ages, a word that, in its more restricted
signification, was applied to those persons who possessed court fiefs, for which they were bound to certain
court services, and were subject to the court laws, in contradistinction to vassals properly so called.

They were mostly of the inferior nobility or gentlemen, though often also of the higher.—Trans.

V

96 ‘ TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

prefects over Bacharach; the burgraves had again their burgmen, among whom was .
an equestrian family of great antiquity, of the name of von Staleck. .

It was of extraordinary strength for those times, and calculated to protect the.
town and the navigation of the Rhine; had a round tower, whose walls were fourteen '
feet thick, and a road to the town flanked on both sides by walls and mounds, and
of which the entrance was closed by three successive gates under high towers. Both
the burg and town were very roughly handled in the Thirty Years war and the a
French war, having been eight times besieged and taken from 1620 to 1640, four
times sacked, and at last set fire to in 1689, on which occasion the burg was com-

pletely burnt down.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF BACHARACH.

I This old place, famous for its wine, surrounded by towers and walls, extends itself delightfully along

the Rhine. The burg of Staleck rises above it, in proud ruins.

STALBERG.

In the valley of Steeg, behind the village of Steeg (half a league from Bacharach),
we perceive on a hill the few remains of the old burg of Stalberg, the period of the
erection of which is, however, altogether unknown. It is only known that Palsgrave
Otto was, in virtue of an agreement with the Elector of Cologne, obliged to ac-
knowledge ‘it as a fief of the archbishopric of Cologne. It became in the sequel a
fief of the archbishopric of Triers, and was mortgaged along with the burg of
Staleck, and the vallies of Bacharach and Steeg.

This fortress served to cover the pass from the mountains through the vallies to
Bacharach. It was destroyed, with other places, in the wars of the seventeenth

century.

 

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97
GUTENFELS. ,

This burg, which remained a place of strength down to 1814, and was always
held in high consideration, is situated on a steep hill above the town of Kaub. In
old documents it is Called only Cube, die Burg, or Veste. It was originally cem-
prehended within the jurisdiction of the old Gaugraves of the Einrich, but came,
in the course of time, into the hands of the powerful Counts vonNijringen; and
afterwards, through Jutta (or Guda), an heir female, into the possession of Werner II.
von Bolanden, towards the end of the twelfth century; and, successively, into that
of Werner III. and IV.; next into that of Philip I. von Falkenstein; and, lastly, into
that of Philip II. of the same house, who, in the year 1277, sold the burg and small
town of Kaub to the Palsgrave Louis II. for 2000 marks of the mint of Aix-la—
Chapelle.

Some people derive the name of Gutenfels from the above-mentioned Countess
Guda, the daughter of Philip I. von Falkenstein, who was known by the name of
Beatrix, and became the wife of King Richard: however, this name first occurs
in documents at a later period, and after the death of Guda*. Gutenfels had its par-
ticular burggraves and castellains, of whom several are mentioned in documents
between 1316 and 1525. It closed and partly protected the road leading from the

Einrich to the Rhine, and protected also in part the navigation of that river.

* It is highly probable that Richard of Cornwall, the German king, saw the beautiful Beatrix, or
Guda yon Falkenstein, the daughter {not sister) of Philip I. hereditary Chamberlain of the Empire, in
the year 1268, when he came to Germany for the third time, and sailed up the Rhine; and that he mar-
ried her at Kaiserslautern, in 1269. She was the most beautiful woman of her time (mulierum omm'um
speciosissima, according to theChronicle of Hirschau), and accompanied King Richard to England,
where she died, five years after her husband. Her grave is at Oxford. In Gebauer’s Life and Actions
of Richard, “ Leben und leaten Richards,” a quarto volume of 632 pages, which appeared in 1744, men—
tion is also made of her. Kluyt, and other Netherland historians, maintain, on the other hand, that she

. Was a native of their country, and a sovereign Baroness (Dynastin) of Fauquemont, or de Monte Fal-

conis. In English works she is called F alquemont, F alkemonte, and Falkestone.

O

‘98 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

The Landgrave William of Hesse fruitlessly besieged this fortress for six weeks -
in the Bavarian feud in 1504. The old German rhymes carved in stone at the
toll-house, preserve the memory of this siege: the burg suffered severely from it, and
underwent a repair in 1508. In the Thirty Years war, this burg, with the toWn,
was also exposed to great severity of treatment; it was besieged and taken at one
time by the Imperialists, and at another by the Hessians.

In succeeding times, it fared rather better, and suffered comparatively little; and
it still had recently a garrison of invalids and some artillery. ‘

At length, it was, as a state possession, sold to an innkeeper at a low price. It
has been immortalized in history by the passage over the Rhine here, between the

town of Kaub or Caub, and the insular burg of Pfalz, by the hero Bliicher and the

Prussian army.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF THE PFALZ AND KAUB*.
The burg of Pfalz, on an island in the Rhine, has the appearance of a vessel in the ocean. Above
it, towers the burg of Gutenfels, at the foot of which lies the little town of Kaub. In the background,

we have a view of Oberwesel and Schönberg. This is a. fascinating view of places equally memorable

in the history of the late and of former times.

SCHOENBERG.

Above the town of Oberwesel on the Rhine, formerly belonging to the electorate
of Triers, we perceive the ruins of the large hill-fortress of Schönberg, situated on
a high and steep rock. This was once a place of exceeding great strength. In
the opinion of some persons, it was built on the foundations of a Roman castellum:
this, however, cannot be reconciled with the style of its architecture and its situa-'
tion, assuming even that Oberwesel is the Roman Vesalz‘a. Schönberg was aGerman
Imperial burg+, and owes its existence to the twelfth century. It was the residence

* In the engraving Kauf) is, through mistake, spelt Laub.

1— That it was possessed by a companion of the victories of Charlemagne, and that his descendants

changed the name of Belmont into Schönberg, is fabulous.

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

SCHOENBERG. 99

and original house of the royal burggraves, who took their names from it, and ex-
ercised a jurisdiction over the formerly Imperial town of Oberwesel, in the name of
the Empire. Their office was hereditary, but they abused the power with which
they were intrusted, to the prejudice of the Empire and the town, and treated the
latter in as arbitrary a manner as if it had been their own property. The Emperor
Frederic II. determining to tolerate this no longer, laid siege to the fortress and town,
and compelled the burggraves to make over their rights to the Empire for the sum
of 300 marks of silver, in addition to which they afterwards received 1000 marks, as
a further indemnification. The burg and town were now confided to a royal officer
as prefect, and an end was put to the burggraviate.

King Henry VII. ceded both as an Imperial mortgage to his brother Baldwin,
Archbishop of Triers. As the town, under the sanction of its royal privileges, re-
sisted the attempt to enterinto possession under this mortgage, it was on that account
taken by force in the year 1312. The permanent occupation of it was afterwards
secured to ‘the electorate of Triers by the treaty of Westphalia, which declared that
the mortgages of the Empire were irredeemable. In the mean time, the Lords of
Schönberg held possession of the burg, with the estates appertaining to it, as a fief of
the electorate of Triers, till it was taken by the Swedes in the year 1639. It was
burnt and destroyed by the French in 1689.

The male line of the family von Schönberg became extinct, in 1690, with Mein-
hard Count von Schomberg, a hero of the seventeenth century, victor on the Tagus
and the Boyne, who secured the thrones of Portugal and England to the families
who best deserved them, and died for Albion on the field of glory*. The estates
devolved to heirs female. The burg, as a fief which had fallen in, was taken pos-

session of by the Elector of T riers.

9* He was a German hero and zealous Protestant, who exerted himself to secure the Protestant

religion on the British throne and in that land of freedom.

02

100 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF OBERVVESEL.
We have here a charming view of the Heroes’ burg of Schönberg, and the old little town of Ober-

wesel, with its beautiful collegiate church and a strong tower. In the distance, the Pfalz seems to float

beside Kaub, beneath the Gutenfels.

RIENECK, OR RHEINECK.

On a steep hill which rises from the Rhine, beside the village of Derscheid, in
the bailiwick of Kaub, in the Nassau territory, appear the ruins of theburg of
Rieneck, or Rheineck. It is not to be confounded with another burg of the same
name at Andernach, the original home of the old burggraves of Rheineck. The
Rieneck mentioned in an agreement between Count William of Katzenelnbogen
and Archbishop Bomund II. [of Triers, and Palsgrave Rupert the elder, would seem

to .be the rformer'place: no mention is afterwards made of it.

NEW KATZENELNBOGEN, OR THE KATZE.

Above the village of Goarshausen, opposite the town of St. Goar and the fortress
of Rheinfels, we perceive the castle of New Katzenelnbogen, now in ruins. It was
built by Count John III. of Katzenelnbogen, about the year 1393. On the ex-
tinction of this house, it came, by virtue of agreements, into the possession of Hesse-
Cassel; afterwards into the possession of Hessen-Rothenburg; from 1806 to 1813 it
belonged to France; but this Rock-Cat, with the Rock-Mouse, now belongs to the

beautiful and well-rounded duchy of Nassau.

RHEINFELS,‘ OR RINFELS.

This hill-fortress, formerly a place of celebrity, is built on a high rock, at the
_ foot of which the town of St. Goar extends itself along the left bank of the Rhine.

With respect to a convent called Mattenburg or Marienburg, which formerly stood

wämgsäfiméfiw ‚w—m‘x‘w"

 

 

 

THURMBERG. ‘ 101

there, history is silent; and it was not Diether I. but Diether III. of Katzenelnbogen,
who constructed this fortress in the year 1245. It is probable, nay it even appears
from documents, that there was a castellum on “this rock in ancient times.

In the year 1692, this fortresswas in vain besieged and invested by the French
General Tallard, and defended in a wonderful manner by Colonel Goertz and his
valiant Hessians. After the lapse of a century, it was taken by the French under
Moreau, without striking a blow. The cowardly defender was very properly dis-
missed with disgrace.

The peace of Luneville gave Rheinfels, with the left bank of the Rhine, to
France. By the convention of Vienna in 1815, both became Rhenish-Prussian. The
French, as usual, by way of memorial of their occupancy, blew up the works, and

thereby destroyed many buildings in the small town of St. Goar.

THURMBERG, OR THE MOUSE.
Above the village of Wellmich (Welmenach), which now belongs to the duchy

of Nassau, but which formerly was a part of the late electorate of Triers, we per-
ceive the ruins of the great hill-fortress of Thurmberg, or Durunberg, called by the
inhabitants of this part of the country the Mouse { Maus }, by way of contrast to the
other fortress of New Katzenelnbogen, usually called only the Cat {Katze}, which is
not far distant from the Mouse. Cuno Archbishop of Triers, who entered on the
, government in 1363, is said to have built it, and to have named it Cunoburg, after
himself: perhaps, however, he was not so much the builder, as merely the enlarger

or restorer of this burg. No further particulars are known respecting this Mouse, or
its fall.

102 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

DESCRIPTION OF THE 'VIEW OF THURMBERG.
On a. steep hill above the village of Wellmich, we see the important ruins of the burg of Thurmberg,
or the Mouse, in a charming view of the majestic stream, and the richly adorned mountains through which

it flows.

_ .”... ___»...MQ

RElCHENBERG.

This old castle lies on a high rock, half a league from Patersberg, and three
quarters of a league from Goarshausen. Count William I. of Katzenelnbogen
began the construction of it about the year 1280: it was,'however, destroyed in the
year 1302, on, account of the counts being an adherent of. the Electors of Triers and
Cologne, against Whom King Albert I. entered the field in the above-mentioned year.

The count, in conjunction with the Archbishop Baldwin of Triers, who advanced
the greatest part of the funds for that purpose, rebuilt this burg, and conveyed the»
superiority of it to the archbishopric. The structure was very artificial, and in the
Oriental style, with vaulted walls and singular entrances: the work proceeded, how-
ever, slowly, and on the death of William in 1331, it was still in'an unfinished
state. William also planned the foundation of a new town, and obtained a charter
for'that purpose from the Emperor Louis IV. in 1324;,but the execution of this plan
ended with the little village of Thalreichenberg. Tilly, the Imperial general, burnt
down Reichenberg in the Thirty Years war, and a few ruins are all that now remain
of it. It was at a later period restored in some degree, and converted into the re-

sidence of a government officer.

LIEBENSTEIN AND STERRENBERG, OR THE BROTHERS.

Above the suppressed Capuchin. convent of Bornhofen, appear, quite close to
eachother, the ruins of two hill-fortresses, between which a large wall is erected:
They are called Liebenstein and Sterrenberg.

In the year 1263, Wernher von Bolanden, the master of the Imperial table

äääwfl 5&3 341

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LIEBENSTEIN AND STERRENBERG. 103

(truckscss’ll‘), was in possession of Sternberg, and the toll on the Rhine levied at that
place, both of which he held as a fief of the Empire. Sternberg was afterwards
held, either mediately or immediately, from the electorate of Triers, by the family of
the rich Bayer von Boppart. It is probable that Liebenstein came through this
family to that of the Schenke von Liebenstein, of which last family Gerhard lived
about the year 1358. This burg next came into the possession of the family of
Brömser von Rüdesheim, and on its extinction, to that of the Schenke von Oster-
spey: Sterrenberg, however, with Bornhofen, came again into the possession of the
Electors of Triers.

At what time, and through what cause, the two burgs were destroyed, is a matter
respecting which nothing is yet known. Both of them enjoyed high celebrity on
account of a pretended love—story. _

Archbishop Gerlach of Mentz dwelt at Liebenstein in the year 1362, during a
feud with the Count of Nassau; the burg then belonged to Henry Bayer von
Liebenstein. Another Henry Bayer von Boppart (burggrave of Stromberg about
the year 1350) hadualso the addition of von Sterrenberg, and died in 1355; he was
the brother of the former, and it is probable that both burgs took from them the
name of the Brothers. The memory of these brothers is preserved in a romantic tale.

The dear fair-one is said to have been of the family of Brömser von Rüdesheim,
and John III. Br'omser founded the convent of Capuchins at Bornhofen'with her
estate. The end of the affecting tale was, that the lady took the veil in the noble

convent of Marienberg at Boppard; and the two brothers, von Liebenstein and

Sternberg, saw her no more.

* Truchsess ( dapz'fer ), in the Latin of the middle ages, drossatus, drossardus, &c. an oflicer who had the
superintendence of the table of a sovereign or great lord. The functions of the steward of the house-
hold in our court are somewhat similar to those of the truchsess. The Elector Palatine was erz-truchsess

of the Empire, which officeis generally translated in French archi-maitre.—Trans.

“Jr

104 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF LIEBENSTEIN.

We have here a near view of the melancholy ruins of this old burg, so celebrated on account of the
love—story of the brothers who possessed it, which is situated on a commanding height, amidst groups of
rocks overgrown with moss and shrubs, and old walls, in which the families of needy vine-dressers are
nestled like so many owls. In our_view over the valley, we see the little village of Kestert am Rhein,
surrounded by agreeable eminences, which appear like so many dwarfs compared with the height on

which the burg stands.

LIEBENECK.

Above Osterspey, and half a league from Boppard, lies the castle of Liebeneck,’
belonging to the family of Schenke von Osterspey, formerly von Liebenstein, which
is still inhabited. It is not improbable that this castle was built by the above family
after the destruction of the burg of Liebenstein, and called Liebeneckby way of

memorial of it. Nothing further is known respecting it.

MARXBURG.

Above the town of Braubach appears the fortress of Marxburg, enthroned on a
precipitous rock beside the Rhine, which takes its name from St. Mark, Whose likeness
is engraved on the seal of the town-court. The time of its foundation is uncertain.
On enlarging the works of the fortress, various pieces of old armour were found, on
which account it was supposed that an old burg once existed here. The fortress of
Marxburg, as well as the town, was in the most remote times the property of‘ the
Salic Counts of the Niederlahngau. Conrad Kurzpold possessed both, and also
Dietz and Lahnstein. Wildrut, his mother, gave the whole. of the tithes of the
three places above-mentioned to the convent of Selgenstadt, On the extinction Of
this house, the possession came into the hands of the Counts of Arnstein, and after-
wards devolved to the Lords of Eppenstein, who held it as a flef of the Electorate-

Palatine. Godfrey IV. bestowed it as a sub-fief on certain nobles, and communi-

 

 

 

 

MARXBURG. = 105

cated at the same time to Count Everard of Katzenelnbogen, the husband of his
brother’s daughter, the right of redeeming the estates belonging to it. Of this right
he availed himself, and from thenceforward Count Everard and his posterity ap-
pear as the possessors of this burg, and the jurisdiction of Braubach belonging to
it. In the year 1293, the Palatinate was invested with the superiority. On the
failure of heirs male of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen, Hesse succeeded to that
county, with Braubach. By the partition of Landgrave Philip the Magnanimous,
the two Hessian branches of Cassel and Darmstadt received these possessions, in the
proportions of two third parts and one third part. At length, in the agreement of
1627, the jurisdiction and fortress of Braubach fell to the share of Darmstadt, and
Landgérave George II. conveyed them, in the manner of a pledge, to his brother
john, in 1643, who resided here, and strengthened the fortifications by the addition
of several outworks. On the death of John in 1651, the whole reverted to Hesse-
Darmstadt, and remained in its possession till 1803, when Braubach was assigned, as
part of an indemnification, to the house of Nassau, and it is now an important fron-
tier jurisdiction of that delightful duchy.

The towering fortress of Marxburg is still in good condition, and is occupied by

a Nassau garrison.

 

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF BRAUBACH AND THE FORTRESS OF MARXBURG.

The old Rhenish town of Braubach, with its fortress of Marxburg, on a conical rocky hill adorned
with vines, appears here in a sweet evening light. On the Opposite side of the river, we perceive the
village of Osterspey in the Muhlthal, a mountain-gorge, which extends to the Rhine, and in which there
are several powerful mineral springs. This wild country forms a singular contrast with the mild environs

of BOppard, only two leagues distant.

106 TOUR ALONG THE. RHINE.

PHILIPPSBURG.
This castle is situated in the valley of Braubach, on the Rhine. It was built,
between 1568 and 1571, by Landgrave Philip the younger, a son of Philip the Mag-

nanimous of Hesse, and named after him.

RHEINBERG.

Beside the Marxburg, there was formerly a second burg, on another hill, at
Braubach, called Rinberg, or Rheinberg. It was in like manner a Ganerben-house,
in which several noble families had shares. It appears from a document, that in the
year 1463 this burg was possessed by the equestrian family of Stein-Nassau. A burg-
man family had also its name from it; and Frederic von Rinberg, a knight who is
mentioned as having taken a part in the occurrences of 1300, is said to have belonged

to this family.

STOLZENFELS.

Not far from the celebrated Royal Chair {Königsstuhle} at Rense, which has been
in ruins since 1794, lies a place called Kapellen, in the late electorate of Triers;
above which appear the ruins of the former castle of Stolzenfels, called in old
writings the Proud Fortress (Stolze Veste). Archbishop Arnold of Triers, who came
to the government in 1242, was not the person who built it, but it was enlarged and

strengthened by him.

LAHNECK.

This old archiepiscopal fortress, constructed in the thirteenth century, is situated
on a high and steep hill opposite the still older town of Lahnstein, at the influx of

the Lahn into the Rhine. It served to protect the toll on the Rhine which was

LAHNECK. ‘ 107

levied there, and Was a3 temporal residence of the archbishops, particularly during
the royal elections at the King’s Chair in the immediate neighbourhood, and on other
solemn occasions. Its history is very little connected with that of the town, and is
very incomplete, from a deficiency of documents.

The name occurs, as early as the year-1296, in a document in which Count
William the younger of Katzenelnbogen was received as burgman of it. It had its
particular burggraves and burgmen, who are not to be confounded with those of- the
town of Lahnstein; for it is perfectly certain, that in former times, prior even to the
erection of Lahneck, a separate archiepiscopal burg existed in the town (probably
the palace given by Uta, the queen of King Arnulf, to the archiepiScopal see of
Mentz), which was rendered superfluous by that of Lahneck, and at length fell into
decay.

That this town-burg was ever occupied by Templars, is entirely fabulous.

In the disgraceful feud between Archbishop Adolphus of Nassau and Diether von
Isenburg, the former mortgaged to Archbishop John of Triers, in the year 1462, the
fourth part of the toll at Lahnstein, when the burg and town should be taken. John
immediately laid siege to Lahneck and Lahnstein, but was obliged to withdrawhis
forces. A second attempt was attended with the same success; and the incensed
inhabitants of Lahnstein took a severe revenge on the territories of Triers. Adolphus
had received this burg from the chapter of Mentz, to which it was then mortgaged;
and he repaired to the town, and succeeded in obtaining admission into it, but being
unable to effect his object with the inhabitants, he returned discontented t0 Eltville.

Lahneck was at length ceded in mortgage by Archbishop Adolphus to Diether,
till all his debts should be liquidated; and Diether remained in peaceable possession
of it, even after his second election, till the period of his death. How long after
this Lahneck continued to serve as a burg is uncertain; but in the year 1646 it

P?

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Lama «Mi.-“rm”

1‘08 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

was still in good condition, as may be seen from Merian’s' drawing of it in Zeiler’s

Topography“.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF THE CHURCH OF JOHANNES, AT THE INFLUX OF
THE LAHN.

Here, where the roaring Lahn unites With the still Rhine, the contemplative traveller views with par-
ticular interest this orphan temple (formerly conventual), which he sees reflected in the mirror of the
stream. Ranges of gloomy rocks and hills of a. dark green hue appear on the opposite bank; and the sup-

pressed Carthusian convent at Coblentz is seen in a charming distance, on its delightful eminence.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The passage down the Rhine from Bingen to Coblentz, by the dark rockypre-
c'ipices of the Druden ( Druiden } berg, is highly interesting and singular, from the
contrast of soft and romantically wild objects, which follow each other in the most
rapid succession, and which are equally important in a natural and historical point of
View.

The melancholy ruins of burgs and rocky hills as far as St. Goar, resemble each
other in colour and shape, and form a singular whole, as well as the half-ruined and
generally poor and necessitous places which we pass by. Many a delighted traveller

would hesitate to take up his abode in any one of them’r.

* Historical details respecting these burgs are to be found in the works of Joannis, Freher,.Gudenus,
Trithem, Zeiler, Würdtwein, Wenk, Widder, Bar, and Shunk. The author is indebted to his learned
friend Bodmann, for several contributions with regard to them.

+ Among the ruins of the Rhine must also be now included the former hawks’ nests of the French

douam'ers on the left bank, which have fallen down.

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. wg

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF ST. GOARSHAUSEN AND ST. GOAR.

Between the vineyards above'the fishing~habitations of St. Goarshausen, a place surrounded with towers
and walls, rise colossal masses of melt, on which, with an aspect which still seems to defy all attack, we
perceive the remains of the burg of New Katzenelnbogen, or the Cat, lately completely destroyed.

‘On the opposite bank, we see the beautiful town of St. Goar; above which, the formerly powerful fortress
of Rheinfels is still proudly enthroned in its ruins. Beneath it, we see the now deserted barracks, re-
flected in all their melancholy gloom in the crystal stream. To the right, we see, in the back-ground,

.»—

the burg of Thurmberg, or the Mouse, peeping as it were from its rock through the mountains.

 

Almost all these burgs were wholly destroyed by the French in the seventeenth
century, who, from the time Alsace came into their hands, had always an eye to
the country towards the Rhine, and at last made the river their frontier. Water,
however, forms always an unnatural boundary: mountains and languages more par-
ticularly separate men from each other; but rivers facilitate and promote their mutual
intercourse. Tolls were formerly levied at twelve places, but are now levied only
at Mentz, Kaub, Linz, Andernach, and Cologne. The other places were, Bingen,
Bacharach, Boppard, Oberlahnstein, .Leudesdorf, and Bonn. The passage in small
yachts is very cheap; and in larger yachts, hired for that particular purpose, it is not
dear. The dangerous places in the navigation of the Rhine are, the Miihlstein and
the F z'ea’cl (Fiddle) below Rüdesheim, the Bingerloch with the whirlpool, the Leisten,
and the Niederloch at Assmannshausen. Besides these, there are the small whirlpool
at Bacharach and the Ban/r, and the whirlpool (strudel—gcwirrj in the caldron formed
by the rocks at St. Goar. At such places the woodenflosshund must frequently be let
loose, when the raft-admiral gives the signal for saving his floating forest, the flat log-
Vessel, from dashing against the rocks. The singular Wispcrwind is a north-east
wind from the valley of the Wisper, which blows westerly to Rüdesheim, and pro-
mises a favourable passage to'those who are descending the river. All the way to
Lorchhausen we can perceive the reddish Nahe and the yellowish Maine, and the

green Rhine flows along between them.

 

im: TOUR ALONG THE RHIN’E.

DESCRIPTION OF THE-VIEW OF THE LURLEY, WITH THE SALMON-FISHING.

At the font of tremendous rocks ef great height and stéepness, full of caverns, variously stratified,
and where there is a frequently repeating echo’, two boats, engaged in fishing for Salmon, are stationedi
the fisherman of one boat has already cast hisnet into the deep. On the opposite bank are heights

, , , l _
overgrown with wild shrubs, at the foot of which runs the new road from Mentz tovCoblentz.

 

The towing-path (temp/21d} is from Mentz to Kaub on the right bank, and from
thence to St. Goar and Coblentz on the left bank. ' ' ’ &

After the wines of Steinberg, Markbrunn, J ohannesberg, Rothenberg, and Rüde-
sheim, the best are the Scharlachberg at Bingen, the red Assmannshausenand Fürs-
tenberg, the Vogtsberg Muscadel ( vz'num fl/Iuscatum) and Mannebach, and Steeger at
Bacharach+, the red Oberwesel and Patersberg at St. Goarshausen, and the J acobs-
berg at Boppard.

“ A little Rhine gives good Wine,” says the old proverb. Mother Nature has
richly provided this tract of country with wine and water, as well as with numberless
mineral wells of every description, that spring abundantly from the clay-slaty‘
mountains by which they are so much favoured. But these fair regions are not very
fruitful, when compared with others, in great men, in various walks, who communi-
cate a mental interest to the places where they lived, or where they first beheld the.
light of day. Elfeld, it is true, was the cradle of Schmitt the musician, Rüdesheim
that of Ackermann the anatomist, Bacharach of the two Kügelchen, St. éoar of
Albini the vigorous statesman, and Oberwesel of John Ruchard, called Joannes de

* Schreiber says, this echo is repeated fifteen times.—Trans.

+ The German Pope Pius II. (]Eneas Sylvius) and the Emperor \Venceslas were very fond of this
wine; but it is possible that it may have been another sort, as Bacharach then possessed the privilege of
being the staple for Rhenish wine. A society of good fellows (zerh/zerren) was formed here. The place
and name of Bacharach are originally Celtic, and not Roman. Pharamond is said to have founded it anew,
and it is called the village BacIu-echa in a document of 1119. The village became in the course of time,

first a flecken, and then a little town ( städtclzen).

 

 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 1 11

Wesalz'a, a man whose ideas were far beyond those of his age*. In other respects,
the Rhine-land, the subject Of so many eulogies, and more especially the upper part
of it and the country round Coblentz, is a true garden Of God and the paradise of
Germany.

Who, when he reaches the end of the romantic labyrinth, which, with the ex-
ception perhaps of the country round Kaub and Bornhofen, were it not for the
animating and majestic stream, and the splendouf’ derived from history, would for
the most part have only the appearance of a gloomy range of rock-prisons, or miser-
able retreats for outlaws and banished men, does not feel a briskness and elevation of

spirits at sight of the free and uninterrupted prospect which opens to him on all sides?

DESCRIPTION QF THE VIEW OF BORNHOFEN.

At the foot of the celebrated and romantic burgs of Liebenstein and Sterrenberg, or the Brothers, and
the ruins of the great wall and the fosse which separated the two burgs, we perceive the old Capuchin
convent at Bornhofen, lately suppressed, and the shady rows of walnut-trees that once afforded refresh-
ment to pilgrims. To the left, appears the little village of Salzig, surrounded by grounds abounding

with cherry-trees, tinged by the enchanting ethereal glow diffused over this mild region.

The duchy of Nassau, well rounded between the Lahn, the Rhine and Maine,
the Dill and Nidda, forms a charming tract of country, and comprehends some of
the most beautiful and memorable parts of Germany. May the conduct of the
government of Nassau be always such as to merit for it, in time to come, the unin-

terrupted (if not the unenvied) possession of the country within these limits!

* This individual came boldly forward as a Reformer fifty years before Luther, and his manuscripts
against absolution and various dogmas were condemned to be publicly burned at Mentz. On the very
same day a tournament was held there, which proves sufficiently that levity has long had a seat here and
there in the world.—Even the celebrated Mentz has, in the course of six hundred years, produced few or

no great native learned men, poets, or artists; its most distinguished electors were born elsewhere.

112 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE;

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF BOPPARD.

Here we see the ancient Imperial town of Boppard, now dwindled down to a place of small extent, of .
which the houses seem to have suffered greatly from age, stretching along the Rhine. Two suppressed
convents (one of which, a nunnery for ladies of noble extraction, is now transformed into a factory,) still
serve to give architectural ornament to the place; and a chapel, with its five stations, on a steep eminence,
adds highly to the effect of the view. Softly rounded hills, in part overgrown with vines, surround, and
as it were inclose, the place. Nature seems here unwilling to leave the clear watery mirror, and to
float in the spacious Rhine. Further down, the powerful stream takes suddenly a. new direction, to the
north.

The view was taken in a delightful morning light.

COBLENTZ.

Salve magne parens frugum virumquc Mosella.

Ausomus.

WITH joy we approach this important town, which has again become German.
It lies in an agreeable triangle, and its environs are beautifulpand sublime at the same
time. A new world now opens itself to the eyes of the traveller, and a brisker life;
and his ear is already struck with the softer sounds of the Low German. The beauty
and mildness 0f the situation are visible in the appearance of the inhabitants. The
attachment of the people to old customs is here seen in the female head-dress the
mutsc/z, a cap on which so much gold is expended, and the elegant silver arrow, of
which Cupid so often avails himself. The flying bridge of boats which now con-
nects the valley of Coblentz with the right bank of the Rhine, and is constantly
moving backwards and forwards, covered with motley and bustling crowds, forms
an animated picture of equality of ranks—by water. Willingly also do we repair to
the stone bridge built by Baldwin in the fourteenth century, and which is much re—l

sorted to in the evening by parties of pleasure, to view the valley of the Moselle‚

 

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COBLENTZ. _ 1.13;

which unites with the Rhine near this spot. Here we feel in all their force the strains
of Ausonius, the poet of the Moselle, which force themselves on our recollection:

Dicamus laeto, per rura virentia, tractu

Felicem fluvium, Rhenique sacremus in undis.

From this confluence and a caslellum of Drusus (on the flat eminence which
extends from the Moselle bridge to what is now called the Corn-gate) this Roman
mum‘cipium received the name of Confluentes and Confluentz'a, transformed in the course
of time into Coblentz. Wherever we turn our steps, we perceive memorials of an:
cient and modern times. The monumental stone of a Roman family, with figures,
and an inscription not easily explained, is to be seen in the town-wall at the Swan.
The oldest wall, particularly at the Loher-gate (Löhcrthor), still exhibits traces of
the Roman mode of building, and fortifications of the middle ages; and the narrow
but regular streets, also remind us of a Roman town. Under the Carolingians, there
was a Frankish royal court here, of which the only memorial now remaining, is the
name of the street called the Old Court. Here Louisthe German and Charles the
Bald divided the empire between them in 870. The Emperor Henry II. made a
present of Coblentz to Archbishop Poppo of Triers; and Arnold II. surrounded it
with walls in 1249. In 1280, Henry von Vinstingen built the burg on the Moselle,
on the other side of which, in former times, stood Lützel, or Little-Coblentz, a place
no longer in existence. The old collegiate church of St. Castor, founded in the
time of Louis the Pious, with the monuments of Nitza his natural daughter, St.
Castor, and the Archbishops Cuno and Werner, is highly deserving of attention. In
860 an ecclesiastical council was held there. In this temple there is an altar-piece of
the school of Rubens, The Taking down from the Cross; as also a valuable painting
of Zick, a native of Coblentz’“. The Florin church and the Dominican church,

* In the church-place or yard, we find a. ludicrous specimen of the manner in which the French so

often boast of their victories, in a fountairppyramid, with the inscription: “ L’an 1812, mémorable par la

“ campagne contre les Russes, &c.” Immediately afterwards there is added: “ Vu et approuvé par nous com-

Q

114 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

both founded by St. Helena, are now in a state Of ruin. The chapel of a nunnery is
now used as a place of worship by the Evangelical Christians. In the Thirty Years
war, Coblentz was occupied by the Swedes, Spaniards, and French. The latter laid
siege to it without success in the year 1688; and it was defended by nine thousand
Hessians under Count Augustus von der Lippe, Who disregarded the four thousand
bombs which were thrown into the place. Noble and palace-like structures now
adorn this delightful town, which is the most pleasant of all the German towns on
the Rhine. The beautiful palace built by'Clement Wenceslas, the last beneficent
elector, and treated so roughly during the days of French liberty and equality, de—
serves certainly to be again put into a state of repair, and to become the seat of an
heroic shoot of the royal stem of Prussia. The edifice of the, nunnery on the Island
of Ober or Magdalenenworth, which was then used as a pasturage for horses, was
also treated in a most shameful manner by the French in the fervour of their newly
acquired freedom: they plundered the graves, and exposed the bodies in the coffins
along the shores of the island! The exterior» of the theatre* is ornamented with the

following inscription:
“ MÜSIS, MORlBUS ET PUBLICJE manna—1787;”
and in the inside, above the curtain, there is also the following inscription:
“ RIDENDO CORRIGO MORES.”

From the hill on which the late Carthusian monastery, converted into a farm-
house, and now forming a part of the fortifications, is situated, there is a most en-
chanting view of the country watered by the Moselle and the Rhine, from the
Marxburg of Braubach to Andernach. Here the sublime is blended with the beau-

“‘ andant, Russe de la place de Coblence, le 1 Janvier, 1814.” The monuments of Generals Marceau and
Roche, without the town, are of a different description.

* It has thirty-two boxes, and a pit, which is yet without benches!

COBLENTZ. 115

tiful in the softest and most intimate union*. From the prettily cultivated bills at
Pfaffendorf, and more especially from the old fortress of Ehrenbreitstein or Herr-
mannstein, of which the works were recently destroyed, but are now rising from their
ruins, there is also a vieW over a most charming sweep of country. The Works of
the fortress, with the burg of Helfenstein in its vicinity, which was afterwards razed
by Baldwin, were strengthened anew by the worthy Archbishop Herrmann Hillin
between 1153 and 1160. The Archbishops of Triers resided, even at an earlier period,
on this rock, which was then called Ermstein (Eremberti Saxum}. In the calamitous
period between 1792 and 1799, this rock-burg was often besieged, but always cou-
rageously defended, and it at last yielded only to hunger, and not to the power of
arms. The Elector John II. of Baden caused a well to be dug in the rock in 1481,
by means of which water was drawn up from the Rhine+. In the nook of the valley
at the foot of the broad Ehrenstein, springs the medicinal fountain called the Thal-
born. The red Kreuzberg wine, which is obtained behind the rock, is considered
the best pale kind of this country, and is much drunk here, with the Sorgen-brecher
(Care-breaker) of the Moselle.

The excursion to the village of Neuendorf, the kitchen-garden of Coblentz, &
place with narrow but neat and regular streets, which will remind the friend of an-
tiquity of a Roman village that occupied this spoti, is also highly agreeable.

* In this respect, Coblentz, Rüdesheim, and Mentz, Wiesbaden, Heidelberg, and Kronberg, pos-
sess the most beautiful environs, and altogether the finest situations of all the places in Germany. Vienna,
Dresden, and Frankfort on the Maine, might complete the three times three.

1- The old piece of artillery ( donnerbuchs ) of three hundred weight, called the Vogel Greif (Griffin), a
ISO-pounder, of the wonderous power of which such stories were told, Andernach having been supposed
within its range, has disappeared.

I The beautiful collection of pictures and well arranged library of M. Lang, 3. clergyman, to whom

we are indebted for the first Travels on the Rhine possessed of historical merit, are to be seen in the old

commune-house of this place, and must afford to travellers an agreeable surprise.

Q2

116 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

The traveller should also visit Yallendar, a place of great stirand animation;
and Bendorf} rich in iron-foundries; and Sayn, the. elegant country-seat of the
Counts of Boosisch, where there is a rich collection of pictures. A The old burg of
~Sayn, beneath which there is a burg formerly belonging to the family von Stein,
commands this country-seat“ In a corner of the place we perceive the old abbey of
the PraemOnstratensians, and in the church, the monument of the “ Giant-Count”
of Sayn. The primeval castle of Isenburg appears in the mountains at some dis-
tance, in all its wild and gloomy“ grandeur.

The banks of the 'Moselle from Coblentz to Triers present us with numerous
objects of attraction. The burgs of Ley (Fels), Elz, with the burg (Trutz-burg) of
Valdenolz and Beilstein, the cradle of the Counts and Princes ven Metternich-
Winneburg, are highly deserving of notice. To these objects may be added Bertrich,
a bathing-place, surrounded by hills’“; the little town of Trarbach, rich in vines
'(pagu's Trcchire), with the remains of the old Roman way; and Traben, formerly
called Travenna, Berncastell in the Hunnsriick, the Roman castcllum Tabernarum, a
more recent burg of the Counts von Castell. We can also see the more distant vine-
covered heightsof Piesport or Potzport, and of several other places; and Trittenheim,
the birthplace of the celebrated historical inquirer Johannes Trithemius, who, as
well as Hontheim, Spangenberg, and Reifenberg, is justly ranked among the learned
men of whom the inhabitants of the Moselle have cause to be proud. Finally, we
can perceive the ancient city of Triers, the civitas augusta Treverorum' under the
Romans, Where there are even monuments of a date anterior to the period of the
Roman occupation.

The lover of nature and of antiquarian researches will find ample gratification
in excursions from Coblentz, or Andernach, through the surrounding country. He

should visit the remarkable tract of the Eifel, which abounds in Roman remains;

* The degree of heat of the water of this medicinal spring is 25.: its ingredients are lime, silica, and

soda. The formation of the mountains is clay-slate.

 

    

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COBLENTZ. " 117

the Drusian Neroburg, which is situated on- an eminence; the Kiihlkopf ( Cool-head ),
a hill from which there is an extensive view; the volcanic lake, with the ruins of the
Benedictine abbey of Laach; and, lastly, the mineral wells of Heilbronn and Tönn-
stein or A'ntoniusstein, of which the surrounding embellishments have been allowed
to fall into decay.

The beautiful C‘onfl‘uenti'a, now happily freed from a fOreign- yoke, is girt round
and defended by new and ingenious outworks, and it is to be hoped that it will not
again fall into other” hands than those of Germans. Here, as well as elsewhere,

however, the best and securest defence will be found in the love of the people’l‘.

 

DESCRIPTION OF' THE VIEW‘ OF EHRENBREITSTEIN AND- COBLENTZ.

The Gibraltar of the Rhine, the fortifications of which will soon be restored, when it will again become
an impregnable hold, towers, through the clouds, and protects the delightful little town of Thal-Ehren-
breitstein, at its base, which appears _as if covered by a veil. A part of Coblentz, extending to the influx
of the Moselle into the Rhine, and the village of Neuendorf, with its agreeable environs, appear on the
opposite bank, in the most delightful contrast. Instead of the former flying bridge, the frequent and
excessive motion of which was exceedingly unpleasant, a standing bridge of boats, drawn in a sort of

curved line, with a green railing, now animates this admirable view.

 

* 'Ilhis has been gratefully demonstrated to the liberal ruler of Rhenisli Hesse, in consequence of
his retaining several popular institutions suitable to the age, to which the people had become accustomed;
and among others, that of trials by jury, by no means a French, but an old German institution; and also,
in consequence of his abolishing the oppressive consolidated duties, or droits réum's, a burden most odious
to Germans. The Rhem‘sh Hessians have, by this means, more especially become pure Hessians". The
same thing is also to take place, it is said, in Rhenish Prussia.-

* There is here a play on the words Rhein (Rhenish) and rein (mm).—Trans.

118 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

NEUWIED.

Gruss dem freundlichen Ort, umwallet von reizenden Fluren

'Wo du Neue so schön sich mit dem Alten vereint.

Hail, sweet abode, by Nature’s richest scenes
Surrounded, where the-old and new are join’d

In happy union!

THE travellermay either visit this place in proceeding down the Rhine from
Coblentz, or he may return to it from Cologne. He will find himself delighted beyond
expression, by the number of attractive and interesting objects which in every di-
rection present themselves to the view. This open. place, without walls and gates,
with houses of :two stories and pavements, has, both from its exterior and interior
appearance, been not unaptly compared to a North American town; and the New
W'eda forms certainly aisingular contrast to most of the old towns and villages on the
Rhine, between which it is situated. The celebrated and majestic stream here waters
one of the most enchanting regions of Germany; and although the country round
Neuwied may not be so remarkable as the environs of Mentz, it is yet of the greatest
importance, ‘when viewed with relation both to ancient and modern times. Here a
German Herculaneum and Pompeji, which are now for the most part reduced to
heaps of rubbish, arose in the years 1791, 1795, and 1801; and the -excavations* at
Niederbiber and Heddesdorf, formerly in all probability called Biberna and Victoria,
have been carefully continued up to the present period. Though these might not be
Roman towns, yet Biberna was probably a stationary and winter camp, and Victoria
a colony of Roman veterans, both of them containing comfortable houses.

Old walls were discovered there a hundred years ago. The more recent harvest

* M. Hoffmann, a captain of engineers, and a zealous antiquary, to whom the learned world is in-
debted for a series of accounts of these operations, is entitled to the highest praise for his exertions in

conducting them, aided by the favour and patronage of the prince.

 

NEUWIED. l 19

of antiquities is preserved in the castle, though it does not yet, alas! form a Muse11m*.
Among these antiquities, there are stilz' of ivory, which are considered pins for the
hair, and a bronze genius lad-f, with a mural crown and a Mercury with the flute.
Three other small bronze figures, ,a Victoria gradz'ens, a Diana biscz‘ncta venatrziz‘, and a
Jupiter fulmz'nans, were stolen. Among the more recent discoveries were, the aqueduct
at Biber, a public bath, the walls of two, large buildings, the painting of which was
still visible here and there in the inside; asalso the porta prz'ncz'palz's sz'nislra of the
castrum, with the porta przetorz'a, built of top/zus. The coins which haVe been found
commence with Tiberius and end with Gallienus; and these Roman stations may,
under the Emperors Gallienus Aurelianus and Tacitus, have been destroyed by. the
conquering Allemanni, enraged at the progress 'of the Roman V ictorz'enscs on German
ground, between the years 267 and 276; a conclusion which it is alleged is warranted
by the inscriptions, and the broken and injured state in which almost all the objects
have been discovered. The name of Victoria must be derived from the Proconsul
Victorinus, in the time of Commodus, who, about the year 180, gave battle tothe
advancing Germans, and having gained a victory over them, founded a colonz'a Victo-
riensium. Biber is probably older, and may have been the Roman Hiberna.

Here the lover of antiquity treads the classic ground of the Ubii and Romans,
characterized by strata of coal and pumice-stone. The old J uhon heights, by which
this tract is surrounded, exhibit traces of Roman castella; and the great Pfahlgraben
is continued behind the hills. Rommersdorf, formerly a Benedictine abbey, and
built on Roman foundations, gleams from an eminence. , There was a summer camp;

castra cem'va, between Bonnefeld and Rengsdorf (Ringdorf). The Renneberg, now

“* Here are also to be seen a. number of interesting objects brought from Brazil by the son of the
prince, who is deeply versed in physical knowledge.
1— This was found in 1791, in the conduit for drawing off the water from the therma at Biber. The

fourteen colours, military signs and eagle-standards, have the inscription of “ DAGORASSUS.”

>120 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

called Friedrichsberg, with the beautifulembellishments of the late Prince of Nassau-
Weilburg, is in the immediate vicinity of Sayn.

The old remains of a téte-de—pont, or castellum, are to be seen at Engers am Rhein,
at which place, in all probability, Caesar crossed the Rhine, to give battle to the
neighbouring Sigambri. Between Engers'a'm Rhein and Neuwied lay a place of the
name of Ben], which was destroyeddn 1680. This name is supposed to be of Roman
origin, and a corruption of Rigadulum’“.

From Niederbiber+ and 'Heddesdorf to Alteck, a Roman cas/61111771, and the Pfahl-
graben, there were two roads, and a path, where nothing will now grow, and which
is still called. the Accurscd Pat/z.. Every thing around, however, is in the highest state
of cultivation, especially Neuwied, with its convent-like colony of Moravians, whose
church-yard, which is 'withoUt the town, has all the appearance of an orchard. The
inscriptions over the departed are short and expressiVe: “ Went home,” or “ Gone
‘“ Ahomeii" The other religious sects, even the Anabaptists, have also their churches
rat Neuwied; and the New Weda has long been the abode of Christian tolera-
tion. Had it not been for the calamities of latter times, this attractive little town
would have become more and more flourishing. It now contains only four thou-

sand inhabitants, who bear with their grievances in expectation of better times,

“" Yet Rigodulum, according to Tacitus (Ann. L. iv. C. 71.) was inclosed by mountains and the
Moselle, and must have been the modern Reol, four leagues from Triers, a place seated on a hill, beside
which the castle of Rigelburg was erécted about the year 1600. Ammianus Marcellinus (L. xvi. C. 3.)
makes no mention of it, and merely speaks of Rigomagum.

1— In the church of this ancient Bevern, or Bi-verna, lies Herman V. Count von Weda, Elector of
Cologne, who was deposed by the pope in 1546, on account of his adopting the Evangelical faith, and
died in 1552.

I It has been said that these people are strangers to pleasure and jovialness; but peace of mind, in-
dustry, and order prevail in this retreat of pious Christians. The Moravian brethren possess thirty-two

settlements in the four quarters of the world, and are particularly numerous in North America.

PLACES WHERE CESAR CROSSED THE RHINE. 121

though the principality is in a mediatized state. The memory of the last Count and
first Prince Frederic Alexander, who was another Frederic the Great’“ on a small
scale, and the benefactor of his delightful and happy territories, is still revered here.
His grandfather, Count Frederic, built the castle of Neuwied in the latter half of the
seventeenth century, and was the founder of this town,— on which particular privileges
were conferred. His first intention was to found it between the villages of Fahr
and Irlech, opposite Andernach, beside the old deserted building called F riedrichs-
Stein+. ' But Frederic Alexander, who ruled from the l7th September, 1737, to the
7th August, 1791, was prOperly the founder of the prosperity of this flourishing
town, which soon became distinguished for freedom of mind and industry. On
gentle elevations, at the distance of a league and a half, lies the simple and princely
palace of Montrepos, the grounds of which are beautifully laid out, and which com-

mands a view of this charming tract of country.

 

THE PLACES WHERE JULIUS C/ESAR CROSSED THE RHINE.

Antiquarii certant et adhuc sub judice lis est.

WHEN that hero of his age began his victorious career, the Ubii, a Germanic
tribe, who were first settled in the Wetterau, and then extended themselves along
the right bank of the Rhine as far as the vicinity of Deutz, formed a free and inde-
pendent state, and, from their commercial intercourse with the Gauls, were in a flou-
rishingxcondition. Devoted to Caesar, they supplied him with scouts in his operations

against the Suevi; on which account they were named by him allies of the Roman

people.

* This prince kept up a continual correspondence with that great monarch.
1' It was called by the people the Devil’s House, and was at last converted into an ammoniac—manu—

factory.

R

122 , -- ' ‘TOURALONG’THERHINE

They took nopart in the previous irruption of.A/ri_evistus*. into Gaul, and 'eVen
killed the Suevi, withJ-whom the C‘atti were -'.united, on their passinglthrough their
territory after Ariovistus was defeated by. Caesar. This probably took place, in the
‘Wetterau, near the Zaun-Gebirge. The Catti soon~ took vengeance for so infamous
an atrocity, and reduced their neighbours the Ubii to a tributary condition, _The
U bii having afterwards experienced great severities from the Sigambri, as. well as the
Catti, were, by the. prudent general and statesman Agrippa, distributed along the
left bank of the Rhine. They did not, however, at a subsequent period wish to be
inclosed within the Roman wall (Pfizhlgraben), and took up their abode behind the
Taunus mountains, extending themselves as far as the half-desolated country of. the
Sigambri, as is particularly mentioned by Dion Cassius (L. liv. C. 36.). At a former
period, they OCCupied'the territory. between the Vogelsberg, the Taunus, and the
Lahn, from which they expelled the Usipeti and the Tenchteri. NotWithstanding
all the horrible proceedings of these Germanic tribes, who were often actuated
with the most deadly hatred towards each other, and treacherously instrumental in
furthering the designs of a common enemy, the necessary result of their not being
.united and forming one people; still, however, there remained behind a peaceable
part, which was increased by emigrants from the Mattiaci, who had submitted to
the Roman yoke. _

The Ubii inhabited, therefore, the lower bank of the Maine, and Caesar was in
a country of friends, there as well as when at Neuwied, The passage through the Arr-r

dennes forest, and the tract which now goes by the name of the Hunnsriick, to Mentz,

9? If this Ehrery'est, or Heel-vest, had not been impeded in his victorious career in that country, its
language would in all probability hare become German, and not half-Roman. The German language, but
for the victory of Hermann", would perhaps have been half—Roman, as well as the language of Gen]:

* The German names in Caesar, Tacitus, &c; are significative in the language of Germany, Thus, Ariovistus is sup-

posed to be Ehrenfcst, or Harvest,” afortress of honour, ‘ or the bulwark ‚of the army; and Arminius is the modern German

name Hermann, which means a warrinr.——Trans.

PLACES WHERE CZESAR‘CROSSED THE RHINE. 123

or from the MOSelle, up” the "Rhine, Would hardly be considered by such a hero any
obstacle in the Way of his object; Czesar counselled the Ubii to secure their most
valuable property-in'their oppz'da. These places of security were probably the Stein-
wälle (valli of stone) of- the inclosed Taunus; for when speaking Of the Germans and
Britons, he meant by "oppidum‘ a wood defensively inclosed {scpes instar inuri, IL. ii.
C. 17.). This hero and conqueror may also have proceeded from the Upper Taunus
to the Lahn, and destrOyed the habitations of the Sigambri, while he kept in check
the Suevi and Catti, Who were then encamped to the north—east" of them. The coun-
try round Neuwied, with the ruins of the Sömerbrücke at Engers, and the subsequent
passage of the Sigambri over the Rhine thirty thousand paces from that bridge, would
seem to favour the opinion that he first advanced only against the Sigambri (L. vi.
C. 35.). The remains of the piers of a Roman bridge, the construction of which,
according to Strabo (C. 4.), was carried on by the Emperors Agrippa, Drusus, and
Tiberius, at a place perhaps where Caesar had previously crossed the Rhine, are also
to be seen atMentz beside the mills, and Castell". Lower down too, opposite the two
islands, there are ruins of a téte-de-pont or castellum on the Amöneburg. The fear of a.
deficiency of provisions, should he advance further, was, in all probability, a mere
cloak to cover a forced retreat; for a Caesar can never be in the wrong, especially in his
Commentaries, and that these Commentaries are at variance with facts, is affirmed by
Pollio and Quatratus (Suetonius in Julio, C. 56.). Other Roman writers give also
countenance to this idea, particularly Lucan, Dion Cassius, and Eutropius. We
leave it to the learned antiquarian public (which is indeed small enough) to determine
whetliar Caesar twice crossed the Rhine at Engers or Mentz. It is singular enough,
that in the country round Engers, as well as the country round Mentz, there Should

be two places at which it may reasonably be maintained the two passages took place.

* A stone was lately found in one of these piers in the Rhine with the inscription “ LEG. XXII.” but.
this‘dOes not prove that the bridge was not built till the time of Trajan. Mentz and Castell Were of too

much importance not to be connected together at an earlier period.

R2

«an... «gawk—a \

‘ "F-v —-

124 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

What if Caesar first crossed the Rhine to attack the Sigambri at Engers, and after-
wards at Mentz, to attack the Suevi? The two places are not so very far distant from
each other, and the “ paullum supra eum locum, quo antea exercitum transduxerat,”
(L. vi. C. 9.) is an indefinite expression, and in Caesar must not receive too strict an
interpretation; because, Whether voluntarily or involuntarily, in many things he says
either too much or too little, and it is unreasonable to suppose, that he would con-
struct the second bridge so near the first, as has been generally thought. The Suevi
waited his approach at the Bacenian (afterwards the Thuringian) forest, which ex-
tended to the R'ohngebirg at Fuld. Till all the doubts are satisfactorily removed, or —
till the spirit of Caesar appear among us to solve the enigma, the above conjecture,
it is hoped, will not be without its use in this controversy’". Among antiquarian
authors, Trithemius entertains doubts; but ‘Scho'pflin, Serarius, and Joannis,vas well
as Fuchs and Habel, are for Mentz+; and, on the other hand, Hontheim, Spangen-
berg, Reifenberg, and more recently Wytenbachi, favour Neuwied. The most
zealous partisan, however, of Neuwied, is Mr. Hofi'mann of that place.

The antiquaries of Cologne all contend that Caesar crossed the Rhine there;
and when we proceed further into Low Germany, we find even Wesel fixed upon§.
At Bonn, however, as well as at Engers, there is a plain much more suitable
for this undertaking, particularly in the advance against the Sigambri. Even if
Heyne, certainly a competent judge, had not distinctly decided in favour of this last
opinion, we might be inclined to pronounce, that the truth in this, as in many other

cases, lay in the middle. As to what Mannert says of the boundaries of the Catti,

* Dahl, an unprejndiced antiquary, and an acute historical investigator, immediately acceded to this
opinion.
1- Lehne affirms that Caesar never saw the country round Neuwied.

I Notices sur les anciens T révz'rois.

§ The Dutch, again, maintain that Caesar crossed the Rhine as low down as the’marshes at Leyden,

where the middle branch of the Rhine is lost in its own sands.

 

; ..szfrluv—‚lz/za' audit ’

 

3 „ v „'n/z .’fufl _] ‚. fiat „( znl'AY/nz/uz’ lü/zv'v’ —.«"Äwvmz/u.‘v [f.-m: m‘z f/zz‘ [UCI/if .

 

PLACES WHERE CJESAR CROSSED THE RHINE. 125

it relates only ’to their advance after the departure of the Ubii. The shorter passage
over the Rhine by Agrippa, when he concluded a peace 'with the Catti, and left
them in possession of the territory of the Ubii on” the Maine, seems to have been be-
tween Mentz and Castell. They remained the quiet possessors of this tract of
country, till Drusus, who was so much bent on conquests, made his appearance on
the Rhine; and, according to Florus (L. iv. C. 12.), such was the effect produced by
the long peace which had existed in Germany, that the country seemed changed, and
the northern climate to have become milder.

Caesar was the first Roman who, for the sake of the fame, as it is called, of his
people, violated the free soil of the Germans, for which piece of temerity his
successors frequently paid dear enough. The great soldier and land-devourer’“
subjugated only the Rhine with its bridges: still, however, he saw and described
Germany, and was the first who did that, which, in the eyes of posterity, is of more
importance than a perishable victory. With Julius Caesar and his Commentaries,

therefore, the historical calendar of our country properly commences.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF NEUWIED AND ANDERNACH.

In this charming landscape we perceive the cheerful little town of Neuwied, with its four churches,
and a flying bridge lately constructed there. Fahr, a small village, appears in the back-ground. On the
left bank, where the little river Netbe enters the Rhine, we still perceive the logs which were brought by
the French in 1797, at the time of their passing the Rhine. The ruins of the convent of St. Thomas ap-
pear in front of the gloomy Andernach, which stretches along the base of the steep mountains. This
town is distinguished for the remains of Imperial residences, and other old buildings contained in it. The
vine-covered hills and wooded heights of Neuwied, which embellish a tract of country famous in ancient

as well as modern times, form a delightful contrast to the environs of Andernach.

* So Father Fuchs calls him in his History of Mentz.

126 f ' TOUR ALONG’THE RHINE _ ..

PASSAGE DOWN, THE RHINE, To“. ‚BONN; ,

Rhein, Germane! Du" bist flirwahr‘n'icht Galliens Grenze,
Trennest ein Volk nicht mehr, welches die Sprache ‚vereint. 7
Heimische Sitte ja wohnt, auch dort, und von beyden Gestaden

Hallt noch teutscher Gesang, bieten sich Teutsche die hand.

A German stream thou art indeed, O Rhine!
No longer dost thou form the frontier line ‘
Of Gallia’s soil,1ior people separate,

By speech and manners in close union join’d.
On either bank the German songs resound,

And Germans take each other by the hand.

A DIFFERENT nature, characterized by different objects, now Opens itself to the
eye of the reanimated traveller. Hisivessel glides past the high-towering Ehren-
breitstein, and the sweet insular village of Niederw‘orth, and he casts a last fond
look of regret on the delightful fields he is now leaving behind him. To the left
appears the blessed Mayenfeld, and to the right (a beautiful plain, in former times

called Engers-Gau, surrounded by classic heights, where Cunostein-Engers is re-

flected in the Rhine.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF ENGERS AND SAYN.

* Engers, surrounded by lofty mountains, lies on the beautiful brink of the mild Rhine. In the back-
ground we perceive Bendorf. The burg of Sayn appears enthroned on a steep hill beside the flat

Renneberg.

The burg built for the protection of the trade of the Rhine, in 1368, by Cuno
von Falkenstein, that hero and restless central administrator of the three spiritual
electorates, was transformed in 1758 into a charming princely residence. It was

lately occupied as a summer-residence by the good Prince-0f Nassau-Weilburg,

 

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PASSAGE ; DOWN ‚THE RHINE TO BONN. „127

( ‚

_whose premature „death was so, generally regretted; audit was occupied still, more
recently by the meritorious Chancellor of Stateof Prussia. In honour-of him, the
discoverylwas made of the continuation of the. ruins of the. Roman advanced ‚work
and téte-a’c-pont on the bank of the Rhine, where in all probability Caesar first crossed
the river, from the placeywhich is now called Urmitz, and where the passage is fa-.
voured by a sand-bank. I According to another opinion, the place where this passage

took place was the Weisse-Thurm (White Tower), where Hoche* first undertook this I
boldmeasure in 1797, with modern Gauls. This watch-tower, which gave its name
to the adjoining village, was erected, in the middle ages on the boundary between the
territories of the electorates of Triers and Cologne, where the small river Nette
flows into the Rhine. In this blooming plain of the Meyenfeld, creative Nature
seems to have rested awhile before she proceeded to form other hills. Neuwied, on
the opposite bank, is attractive in our eyes, bothyfrom the beauty of its situation,
and the abundance of Roman antiquities which have been there obtained; and many
antiquarian treasures still remain hid there in the bosom of the earth. In this part
of the Rhine, new and old objects appear before us in perpetual alternation. The
country is also highly important with reference to natural history. The colossal
mountains of Andernach now appear in large outline before us, with the strange
shapes of which it is impossible not to be struck. In all probability they were ori-
ginally joined to the mountains on the other side of the river, of which the configu-
ration and formations are similar, and were separated, in the same manner as the hills
at Bingen, by a violent convulsion of the earth. The region of the Moselle must
have remained a lake till the Rhine and Moselle forced their way through the rocky

barrier.

In front of the mountain-gorge, we perceive the gloomy Andernach, half-shrouded

* His monument is still here. Such a monument was well deserved by Captain Gros, who took the
Austrian fortified redoubt by storm, which decided the passage. In this enterprize he fell. How often

in war may we say, Tulit alter honor-es!

.‘g-vmrv—“W4

128 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

in the obscurity of past ages. It was the Antenacum (Ante-Nethum, before the Nette,
a castellum and frontier station between'the then Upper and Lower Rhine,) of the
Romans, and was once taken from them by the All'emanni, but retaken by Julian.
At a later period there was a F rankish royal court here, even under the Austrasians,
and its ruins are still to be seen by the gate called the Römerthor. The modern
Andernach was set on fire in six places at the same time, in 1688, by the devastating
French soldiery.

No Roman Valentinian of warlike memory rests here in peace, but a child of
Barbarossa; and the bath* surrounded with columns, below the council-hOuSe, would
seem to have been erected by that emperorf. The powerful Rhine is again hemmed
in between closer, but not tremendous banks. At Namedy, formerly the haven and
rendezvous for rafts, where they were joined together, the commander of the raft is
still occasionally heard to exclaim, as it descends the stream: “ Uebernll! Auf überall !
Belet überall! Hessen land ! Frankreich! Hinten muss seyni !” On the Opposite bank we
perceive Leudesdorf (Ludolfsdorf), where boats employed in the salmon—fishery are
stationed; and the picturesque Hammerstein, a ruinous burg, on a dark rocky hill.
This is one of the oldest burgs on the Rhine. The family to whom it belonged
became extinct, in 1036, in the person of Count Otto, whose only son, Udo, died in
1034. In the feud with Mentz, this burg was razed in 1020, but it was afterwards
restored; and in 1105 it concealed the oppressed Henry IV. In the Thirty Years
war, it was occupied in turn by Swedes and Spaniards. In 1654 it became the pro-
perty of the electorate of Triers; and in. 1688 it was completely destroyed by the
French, who took .it by storm. I

" A striking counterpart of this bath is to be seen at Friedberg in the Wetterau, which is called the
J ew-bath ( Juden—bad ). It is probable that both were given up to the Jews at a later period.

+ The beautiful Genovefa of Brabant (the wife of the Gaugrave Siegfried von Mayenfeld), who is
said to have been buried at'Frauenkirch, on the lake of Lauch, and who, as a saint, has obtained great
celebrity from an affecting romantic legend, is, with her relics, held also in high honour at Andernach.

‚t Invitation to eating and drinking.

 

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PASSAGE DOWN THE RHINE TO BONN. wg

DESCRIPTION OFTHE VIEW OF HAMMERSTEIN.

Here, on a steep rocky. height, which towards the east is covered with vines, we perceive the ruins
of the ancient and memorableibiirg‘lof Hammerstein, with the place of the same name at its base. The
View is taken in a clear and enchanting m’bnning'liglit, which has been happily caught.

‘On the opposite bank, theyfortressiof iRheineck towers aloft on its wood-covered eminence; and in

the “back—„ground weipereeive thelittle town of Remagen on the Rhine, with its old church.

The. majestic stream now rolls along, proud of his delightful banks; and the
shrubby'WeSterholderaue, an islandlwhich interposes itself; as. it were, to protect
navigators from dreadful rocky precipices, rises from the bosom of the flood. _On
the left bank weip-erceive Fornich, which is said to have been the last post of the
Roman army on the Upper Rhine. Two votive stones, discovered there in making
a road in mm),—with the inscriptions, “ F INIBUS ET GENIO LOCI,” &c. have led to
this conclusion.

The Kreuzborner—Leye, with its dark blue basaltic r0cks, regularly formed by
nature, from which mill-stones were manufactured by the Romans, presents us with
a singular spectacle. Here also two Roman votive stones were found, dedicated to
the rock-cleaving and road-opening Hercules Saxanus. Behind Brol and Nippes“,
we perceive the quarries of a volcanic, or rather completely burnt out top/ms, of a
coal-formation, which sometimes whole, and sometimes ground in mills, is shipped
off for Holland as terms, or German pozzolana-earth, of the nature of pumice-stone.
On ahill commanding an extensive View in all directions, we see the burg of
Rheineckjwhich belonged to an ancient family, extinct in 1548. It was an im-
mediate fief of the Empire, had a seat and vote in the Imperial Diet, and came,
by purchase in 1654, into the hands of the Counts von Sintzendorf. It was de-

stroyed as early as 1150, under Conrad III. King of the Romans; it was afterwards

*“ The transmutation into Low German of Nimmt/mis (New-House), the first building with which

the place was founded by a Dutchman.

139 "TOUR ALONG THE RHINE. ,

In front appears the steep Drachenfels, which was destroyed'in‘ the Sickingen
feud. The family became extinct in 1580, and the burg came at last, by marriage,
into the hands of the BaSsenheim family. The name is certainly not derived from
the famous cavern in which the horny Siegfried—in the Nz'ebelungen Lied (the old-
German Homer*)—is said to have slain the dreadful dragon. Drachenfels was a
favourite name for castles or high hills in the middle ages, as it was then supposed

dragons}; inhabited the clefts and caverns of the steepest mountainsi.

 

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF DRACHENFELS AND ROLANDSECK.

The splendid island of Nonnenw'orth, with the noble buildings belonging to the lately suppressed
convent in it, and the small island of Grafenw'orth, close beside it, seem to float in the clear bosom of
the Rhine. The old burg of Drachenfels overhangs the hamlet of Honnef; and behind this burg’we see-
Wolkenburg, now a complete ruin, towering through the clouds. The whole exhibits a delightful picture

of Nature in her grandest and sweetest style.

 

The Wolkenburg, connected with the Drachenberg by a wall of rocks called
the Röpekämmerchen, is now completely pulled down; and this grey conical hill,
which is almost completely hollowed out, served as a stone-quarry for the cathedral
at Cologne. The feldspar-porphyritic stone, quarried at this place, is wrought in

Königswinter, from whence it is shipped off. The Stromberg, or Petersberg, with

* The Niebelungen Lied, which J. von Müller, the Swiss historian, said, might well be- called the
German Iliad, is an epic poem, that received its last shape in the thirteenth century, whose author is
unknown, though conjecture has assigned several names. Manuscripts of this poem were preserved in
the library of Hohenems at St. Gallen, and in the Jesuits’ library at Munich; and a number of editions
of it, some of them with various readings, "have lately been published. The great merit of, the poem is
universally recognised—Trans.

T Drachenfels signifies literally Dragon-rock.—Traus.

I There was another burg of the name of Drachenfels at Worms, and athird in Bohemia.

(Wu/r .7’1/ j

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PASSAGE DOWN THE RHINE TQ‘BONN. 133

its’chapel, dedicated to the Apostle Peter, became a hermitage of the Augustine
order in 1134. > '

The Löwenburg, situated on the highest of the hills, measuring 1900 feet in height,
was the scene of a remarkable incident, which has given great celebrity to it. Geb-
hard von Truchsess-Waldburg, Archbishop and Elector of Cologne, who adopted
the Evangelic faith from love for the fair Agnes, Countess of Mansfeld, brought his
wife there during the period of her lying-in*. This true story may have furnished
matter for many a romantic tale. That these hills were furnished with castles under
the military Emperor Valentinian II. about the year 368, is scarcely conceivablezi
he may, however, have constructed such castles nearer to the Roman wall (Pfalz!-
gmben}, which inclosed the Seven Mountains {Sz’cbcnberge}.

On the other side, in the direction of Bonn, we see the primeval burg of Godes-
berg, called Gudensberg in documents, of which the environs are most delightful.
This burg, and the hill on which it stands, have given rise to much conjecture.-
Whether or not on this hill, called also .Muns Joy/'3, there was the Ara Ubiorunz, a
temple of Jupiter or Mercury (afterwards converted into a church of St. Michael),
moreover an altar of Wodan, such as the ancient Germans erected only in wooded
vales, a castellum of Julian, and lastly a goding, or district tribunal in the early part
of the middle ages, which was usually placed on hills, remains yet to be determined;
the name itself would lead to a supposition something different. The burg, now a
beautiful ruin, was built, in 1210, by Theodorich Archbishop of Cologne; and it
was blown up by the Anti-Elector Ernest in 1593, when the garrison of brave
Dutchnhen, placed in it by the Protestant Gebhard, refused to surrender themselves
to the enemy. Near Godesdorf, in the valley below, there is a medicinal fountain

(the virtues of which were known to the Romans), formerly called the Draz'tsc/zcr

* The Knights of Heynsberg inhabited the Hemmerich. Of the two other hills, the Oelberg and
Gänsehals, or Nonnenstromberg, with their ruins, Plankenberg and Muhlberg, little or nothing can be

stated historically.

I34 . TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Mincralborn‘“, where there is a row of elegant buildings, commanding a charming

view. This is a delightful residence for invalids.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF GODESBERG AND THE SIEBENBERGE.

In the view of this magnificent scene, taken from the custom-house at Bonn, we have a picture in
which the sublime vies with the beautiful. The ruined burg of Godesberg, on its detached wood-covered
>hill, appears opposite to the old burg of Drachenfels, which served for the protection of the Siebeizberge,
seven hills which run into one another. Godesdorf, Oberwinter, and Königswinter adorn the plain of

the back-ground. A well-manned raft here animates the noble stream.

 

Filled with these objects, we pass the old High Cross {Hochkz'elzze+), and insen- '
sibly reach Bonn, the Emma of the Romans, which contains good-humoured and
agreeable inhabitants. We can still perceive from them, that this was the seat of a
polite court, inhabited by benevolent princes, whose memory is yet fondly cherished
by them. ‘

In the Roman-Ubian Bomza Drusus built a caslellum, which was destroyed by
Claudius ’Civilis in the war with the Romans, and restored by Julian, who enlarged
it towards the east. —

Bonn is historically remarkable in another respect. It became the prize of Ria
puarian Franks, Huns, and Northmen. Helena, the mother of Constantine, founded
the cathedral, and her statue in bronze is to be seen here. Henry the Fowler, as
King of the East Franks, met Charles the Simple, King of the West Franks, at this
place in 923, for the purpose of mutual acknowledgment, when they divided Lor-

* The ingredients of this spring are, carbonic acid gas, carbonate of iron, carbonate of lime, carbonate
of magnesia, carbonate and muriate of soda. The water is mostly drunk, and seldom used for bathing.

1- Erected by Archbishop Walram, between Godesdorf and Bonn, about the year 1333.

 

           

   

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PASSAGE DOWN THE RHINE TO BONN. . 135

raine between them*; the whole of which, however, soon came into the hands of
Germany again.

An ecclesiastical council was held at Bonn in 942. Archbishop Conrad von
Hochsteden surrounded the place with walls in 19240. In 1255, Bonn acceded to
the Union of the Towns of the Rhine. When Archbishop Engelbert von Falken-
burg drove off the Colognians in 1268, he fixed his residence here. The Emperor
Charles IV. was crowned in this town. Bonn suffered severely in the war to which
the conversion of Gebhard to the Protestant faith gave rise, and which continued
from 1583 to 1589. In the Imperial war with Louis XIV. the devastator of Germany,
Frederic III. Elector of Brandenburg, afterwards King of Prussia, took this town
in 1689; and in 1703 it was taken by the English general, Marlborough. The new
palace was founded, in 1717, by the Elector Joseph Clement, the friend of the
people, and completed .by Clement Augustus; and it was the happy residence of
the humane and polite Maximilian, the last elector. This princely residence was
shockingly devastated by the free French+. It is now restored, and has been con-
verted into a temple of the German Musesi; and on its altars may the holy fire of

eternal reason and Wisdom never be extinguished! Of all the towns of Rhenish-

* The meeting between Henry and Charles is stated by Schmidt, Pfefl'el, and other German histo-
rians, to have taken place in vessels in the middle of the Rhine, near Bonn, not in 923, but in 921. At
the period of this meeting, all Lorraine was subject to the dominion of Charles; and Pfeffel positively
states, that in the treaty, which is still extant, there is not a word of any cession by Charles in favour of
Henry. The Lotharingians subsequently abandoned Charles, and attached themselves to the more power-
ful Germanic body; but Henry dated the commencement of his reign over Lorraine only from 923.
Charles formally ceded all his rights to Lorraine in favour of Henry in 924; and “ from thenceforward,”
says Schmidt, “ Henry numbered the years of his Lotharingian with his German kingdom, as Charles
“ had before done with his French kingdom.”~—Trans.

+ The palace church was assigned to the Protestant or Evangelical community, and it is to be hoped

@ the possession of it will not be envied them.

I The palace of Bonn has been converted into a university—Trans.

136 . TOUR ALONG THE .‘RHINE. ’

Prussia, Bonn is the best adapted for such a praiseworthy institution; and inthe
bosom of Nature, which appears here in her Inildest and most inviting forms, it is
hardly possible that the labours of the elevated teachers of the sciences, assembled
in this seat of learning, should not be attended with success. The good Bonn lan-
guished for nineteen years under French oppression, from which it was relieved in
1814. On a basaltic rock in what was formerly the Place of St. Remigius, and is
nowfthe Roman Place (Römer-Plätze), there is a Roman altar to Victory, originally
brought from Cologne, with .thelinscription,

“ DEZE VICTORUE SACRUM,” _
which has been, and still is, by some erroneously supposed to be the Am sz’amm,
the altar for thank-offerings of the Ubii. It is highly probable that the altar in
question was erected neither here nor at Godesberg, but in or near to Cologne. Ac-
cording to recent antiquarian conjectures, Geusen, a small place opposite .to Bonn,
beside Schwarz-Rheindorf, was the Gcsom’a mentioned by Florus (L. iv. C. 12)*.
It is doubtful, however, whether Mentz was not the place alluded to; for in many
of the editions we read: “ Pontilms _junxit classibusque firmavit Bonnam =th Gesoni-
“ acum,” and not Gesoniam; from which it has been concluded, that Moguntiacum
was meant. The télc-dc-pont constructed by Drusus, Tiberius, and Germanicus, as
a defence against the valiant Sicambri+, called fond of battles, untameable, and
ferocious, by Horace, Ovid, and J uvenal, was certainly situated at Geusen. VVhe-
ther Caesar first crossed the Rhine against this vigorous tribe here, or at Cologne, or
at Neuwied, is still problematical. i

* See Minola’s “ Uebersicht römischer Denk-würdigkeiten am Rhein,” 2d ed. p. 237. Cologne, 1816.
Other antiquaries consider the village of Kessenich, on the right bank, to be the Roman Gesoniacum.

+ The little town of Siegberg, on the left bank, preserves in its old conventnal church the relics of
St. Anne, who died in 1075. Opitz first publishedzthe old poem“ in praise of this bishop; and (our saint)
Herder also speaks of it with genial unction.

* ‚T he name of the author of this poem, which extends to 874- verses, and which contains some passages of most eit- °

guisite beauty, is not known. He is supposed to have lived in the latter part of the eleventh century.——Trans.

COLOGNE. ' ' ‘ 137

From a Roman castellum originally, Bonn has become a Rhenish-Prussian (pure
German*) university. From a Roman station, whence the projected subjugation of
the Germans once originated, it is now a point from which the light of science will
pour its mild rays over Cis and Trans-Rhenan Germany. Bonn has already pro.
duced several literary men of consideration, and two celebrated musicians, Beethoven
and Salomon+.

Every thing around invites the lovers of Nature and the Muses. The traveller
should visit the elegant castle of Clemensruhe at Poppelsdorf; the Kreutzberg, with
its beautiful church, formerly belonging to the Scrvi 'Sanctce Mai-ice; the Venusberg,
the nursery, and vinea Domini, with other gardens: as also the mineral well at Rosdorf;
Transdorf, founded by Trajan on a former arm of .the Rhine; and Briihlqt, with its

splendid palace of Augustenburg.

Bonna solum felix, celebris locus, inclyta tellus.

COLOGNE.

Rhene Nympharum pater, amniumque

Rex, quot Almannis dominantur oris;

Meque, vectoresque bonos fascello
Devehe salvo.

MELISSUS.
THE journey from Bonn to this place has few attractions either by water or land.

We bid adieu to the delights of mountain scenery; the hills terminate abruptly, and

* Rhein-preußische and reinteutsche, in the original. The play here on Rhein, Rhenish, and rein,.

\
pure, cannot be preserved in the translation.—- Trans.

+ The old canon Pick, a learned antiquary and collector of works of art, who also'possesses Roman

monuments, lives in this new seat of the Muses.

I The old palace here was once tenanted by Cardinal Mazarine, when banished from France.—(Riche—

lieu, Mazarine,_ and Talleyrand, what a right reverend political Triumvirate!)

T

_ \. www—„ .. \

„;, )» ‚;

' figs „imma—di seat 73./ v \ -

138 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

We enter at once on the uninviting plains of Lower Germany. The old city of
Cologne, the Roman capital of Germania Secunda, is only on that account the more
inviting and deserving of attention. This city was originally a stationary camp of
Agrippa*, within the territories of the Condrusi+, who immediately afterwards
abandoned this neighbourhood, and advanced into the interior of the country.-
The Ubii, who had abjured their Germanic brethren, and become dependents of the
Romans, then founded an oppz'dum sz‘orum here, which was increased by a colony
of Roman veterans, and called Colonia Agrippinai, in honour of the birthplace of

the second Agrippina§, daughter of Germanicus, wife of Claudius Caesar, and mother

also of Nero: whence the inhabitants .came to be called Agrippz‘nenscs. The place _

became then a Roman munz’cz’pz’um, governed by its own constitution and laws. In
the foreign features of many of the inhabitants of Cologne, we still imagine we
perceive ancient Romans, whether they possess, or do not possess, Roman souls;
and the red cheeks and high bosoms 0f the females, both in Cologne and the sur-
rounding country, remind us forcibly of the figures of Rubens. We are filled with
the most serious reflections, and agitated with the most powerful emotions, in wan-
dering through this ancient German-Roman Colonia, the capital of the Ripuarian
Franks, the seat of sanctity and pious enthusiasm, the cradle of German art and
nurse of science, the ornament of the Union of the Rhenish Towns, the capital
first of the Atlantic and afterwards of the Netherland Hansa, the workshop of me—
chanical industry, and the temple of happiness, freedom, and prosperity in the

golden middle ages. The Roman-German Cologne was then a second Rome, and,

* Thirty-five years before our era.
1' There is still a place named Cami/mus near Liege.
1 Fifty years after our era.

§ To her, to Jupiter, and to the Genius of Cologne, public games were annually celebrated, according

to an inscription cited by Justus Lipsius.

.. „Au—,

COLOGNE. #139

according to a common saying, p0ssessed as many churches and convents as there
are days in the yeari‘. It gave its name to the electorate, and freedom to itself.

Time, however, has introduced many changes. This city did not keep pace with
the age, and Nemesis took a severe revenge for her transgressions. From the thir-
teenth to the fifteenth century‘commerce and the arts flourished in Cologne; it was
a true aurea Colonia. The staple right afterwards enjoyed by Dordrecht, belonged
then to Cologne, and its vessels could sail without interruption to London, where
there was a German house+ belonging to this place. Cologne gradually fell with
the Hansa, and after the Reformation, instead of advancing, it retrograded in
every thing; while other Imperial towns, particularly Frankfort, did not begin to
flourish till the sixteenth century.

The city of Cologne lived in a constant state of dissension with its archbishops;
for not contented with their spiritual authority, they wished also to become the tem-
poral rulers of this free town. Bruno I. the brother of Otto the Great, aided, it is
true, the establishment of the liberty of Cologne; Engelbert I. gave laws to it; and
Conrad von Hochsteden began the erection of that wonderful structure the cathedral.
The two former may have experienced republican z'ngratz'tude, but the proud Conrad
encroached on,‘ and even laid siege to the free town; and his successor, Engelbert II.
was its bitterest enemy, as he had recourse to every species of cunning and violence
to effect its subjugation: he was at length expelled from iti. In order to save this
- free town from destruction, an honest citizen, of the name of Eberhard, came for-
ward, and addressed his fellow-citizens in so moving a manner, that they all flew

courageously to their arms. The same scenes took place in all the towns on the

* It actually possessed above two hundred.
1- It was at length disposed of in 1768.
1 Since that time the spiritual lords frequently made the circuit of the town along their retired

“ Bishop’s way” to their palace.

T2

’ 140 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Rhine which were the seats of archbishops* or bishops (as also in Ratisbon, Augs-
burg, and Würzburg), from the twelfth century, when the liberties of the towns
were first established, and many of the supreme spiritual pastors became usurping
tyrants. Neither force nor excommunication, however, could bend the Roman
spirit of the citizens of Cologne, and reduce them to- a state of subjectiOn to their
pastoral rulers, as they possessed "sufficient courage and strength to defend their
liberties; and by a law of the Empire, they were taken under its protection+. The
electors then transferred their residence to Bonn, and at last were not allowed to
remain more than one day in Cologne. In the year 1424, all the children of Israel
were expelled the city, on account of usury, and betraying the town to the elec—
toral court. This act of violence was certainly a dreadful revenge on the part of.
the citizens of Cologne, in whom it would have been more becoming to use the
power which their freedom gave them, with more moderation. The Jews are said
to have been the subjects of an auto da fe” here in 1349. The destruction of seven-
teen thousand looms as early as the thirteenth century, in order to punish the rich
woollen-weavers, who were desirous of obtaining an entrance into the senate, for
an insurrectionyagainst the patricians, excited by Conrad von Hochsteden, and the
barbarously fanatical banishment of the industrious and thriving Protestants in
1618-191, by which fourteen hundred houses were left uninhabited, checked the
commerce of Cologne, and several towns in its neighbourhood began to prosper at

its expense.

* Treves was also an Imperial town, and first promised to the electors about the year 1570.

1- An old proof of the excellence of a constitution,which was a shield to the weak against the power-
ful. May the German federation, in a similar supremacy of great and small states, afford the same
guarantee!

, 1 In the time of the Bohemian disturbances, and of Ferdinand II. the pupil of the Jesuits and pro-
scriber of heritics, who wore bones and other relics about his neck, and named the Holy Virgin Generalis-

sima of his armies.

COLOGNE. 141

Cologne does not present us with so brilliant a series of worthy archbishops and
electors, as Mentz". Many of them resigned; others again were deposed and" mur-
dered. Bruno I. elevated this diocese to the rank of an archiepiscopal see, and first
communicated to Cologne the privileges of a city. Hanno (Anno II.), of holy
memory, succeeded in obtaining the guardianship of Henry IV. and gave him the
bad education to which he owed his vacillating character.

Reinhold von Dassel accompanied the Emperor Frederic I. to Italy, and brought
from thence the relics of the three kingly Magi, or magical Kings+. Philip von
Heinsberg conquered the duchy of Westphalia. Engelbert I. Count of Berg, ad-

_ministrator of the Empire in the absence of the Emperor Frederic II. and the
instructor of Henry his son, was killed. Conrad von Hochsteden, “ the Solomon
"‘ of his time,” a man ambitious, and fond of splendour and show, began the building
of the cathedral in 1248:, which was continued to 1499, and even down to the
period of the revolution in the church. Hermann V. Count of Weda (Wied), fa-
voured the doctrine of Luther, which Gebhard von Truchsess-Waldburg adopted:
the latter granted liberty of belief to his subjects. Both of them were, on that
account, deposed and excommunicated by the pope. The spiritual leaders of
Cologne were still more actuated by ambition, and the desire of extending their
possessions, than those of Mentz; and the spirit of the times revenged itself also
more severely on them, for they were stripped of their spoil. ‘Engelbert I. called
also Saint Engelbert, first planned the cathedral in 1220, gave laws to the city and

* Neither does Treves, whose heroes were Hillin, Baldwin, and Cuno.

+ Three kings, whose bodies were, it is said, removed from the East to Milan, and from thence to
Cologne. Many singular stories are told respecting the removal of these kings. There is an amusing
poem on the subject, called Zeno, in Brunns’s Collection of Poems in the old Low German. The import-
ance of these kings may be judged of from the circumstance of Twelfth-day being called in German the
day cf tile Three Kings.—-Trans.

}: The unfortunate disputes of the archbishops. with the council and citizens of Cologne, prevented

its completion.

142 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

country, and checked the system of robbery and feud which then prevailed: but
these benefits by no means atone for his previous atrocities. He was the founder”
of the Secret Tribunal (Vcl’u72gerz'chte+), by which thousands of innocent men were
cruelly deprived of their lives. In like manner, the wicked proceedings of Conrad
von Hochsteden against the free Colognians, threw his merits, with respect to the
splendid cathedral, into the shade.

i Cologne was an important military position of the Romans. In the insurrec-
tionary war of Claudius Civilis, the crafty inhabitants of the Colonia were fortunately
spared, because they had protected the son of the hero; but they delivered up his wife
and sister immediately afterwards to the Romans, and murdered the Germans whom
they found dispersed, though they had previously formed an alliance with them. At
that time the Tenchteri demanded of them, that the walls of their city should be
thrown down, as bulwarks of slaveryi. Here Vitellius (Vitulus) was proclaimed
emperor by the soldiery, on which occasion he girt himself with the sword of Caesar;
and here also Trajan was declared by the good Nerva his associate in the sovereignty.
Trajan communicated additional Roman rights and privileges to Cologne, which .
had received a new form: as a colony-town, the jus Italz'cum previously belonged
to it. Under Constantius it was taken by the Franks; but J ulian_ recovered it
from them, and fortified anew the important station. Constantine built the bridge

over the Rhine to Deutz. The Franks again took Cologne, under Gratian and Va-

‘ In his duchy of Westphalia, because it encountered opposition elsewhere.

1— Velma or Faemgerichte, a criminal tribunal of Westphalia, which acted on clandestine information,
carried on its inquiries in secret, and inflicted capital punishment without allowing the party accused any
opportunity of defence. An ample account of this singular tribunal is to be found in Haltaus. In a
quotation in Frisch, it is said, that .“ when a suspected person was struck on the feet by a staff, he was
“ obliged to rise and depart; for if he allowed himself to be thrice struck, the executioner immediately
“ appeared, and made short work with him.”—-—Trans.

I “ Postulamus a vobis, muros Colonize, munimenta servitii, detrahatis.”-—TACIT. Hist. L. iv. C. 64;

and also 65. and 69.

COLOGNE. 143

lentinian, when King Clodio made it his residence. In the year 508, Chlodwig, or
Clovis, was here proclaimed King of the Franks by the‘Ripuarians. Charlemagne
was fond of Cologne as a residence, on account of the memorials of the ancient
Romans which it contained; and crossed the Rhine here when he advanced against the
Saxons, who still remained faithful to their old gods, but whom he reduced to
subjection, and converted in a most cruel manner.

In the years 845 and 882, the Norrmen, or Northmenfi‘, treated Cologne with
great severity. At length the Emperor Otho the Great annexed this city to the

German Empire, about the year 949, and communicated to it liberties and immu-
nities, which succeeding emperors confirmed. The attachment of the people of
Cologne to the unfortunate Emperor Henry IV. whom they kindly received and
maintained, was highly praiseworthy. For this kindness, his reprobate son, Henry V.
whom the pope instigated against his father, wished to punish Cologne by a severe
siege in 1105: but all the inhabitants flew to arms; children and old persons poured
melted pitch and burning sulphur on the heads of the besiegersi, and the monster was
compelled to retreat. In the time of Frederic I. and the Archbishop Philip von
Heinsberg, Cologne was enlarged, and, from its own means, girt round with walls,
which still exist; and the water of the Rhine was conveyed into the ditch. These
operations were continued down to 1187.

The grateful Colognians manifested their love to Frederic II. the great German
emperor, from whom they obtained the right of staple, by the noble reception they
gave to Isabella, the sister of King Henry III. of England, his betrothed empress,
who enjoyed their hospitality for six weeks, in the year 1235. She was conducted
in a solemn and magnificent procession from Aix-la-Chapelle. Ten thousand comely
armed citizens paraded on horseback through the richly ornamented streets; organs
in carriages, shaped like ships, of which the wheels and horses were concealed under

* It was also visited by Huns.

144 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

a purple covering, moved along with rich melody; and festal songs were sung by‘
choruses of serenading virgins*.

The high council of Cologne imitated the Roman senate; and its consuls, or.
burgomasters, had also their lictors, who preceded the two ruling lords with fasces
and white staves. The senate, which was at first wholly aristocratic, consisting of
patricians, was weakened by tumultuary combats with the corporations in the thir-
teenth century, and became at; length half democratic in 1396+, when the guild-
brethren, or corporations, succeeded in obtaining an admission into it: the most
important dignities of the state still, however, continued to be filled by the patri-
cians. The clcrus, or rather episcopus, ct populus were also at variance, in consequence
of the interference ”of the archbishop in the elections of the council, and his assump-
tion of the right to confirm them, although this point had been settled by eight
different agreements between 1252 and 1377. The Colognians had also bloody feuds
with Conrad von Hochsteden, respecting the right of coinage. This right they ob-
tained from the Emperor Frederic III. in 1469.

* Four kings, eleven dukes, thirty princes and counts, besides prelates, were present at the mar-
riage at Worms. The restless ruler and hero then consigned the charming empress to a secure attendance,

’ which he also wrote to the King

and said to her, “ Custodi te sapienter, nam in sinu habes masculum ;’
of England. She accompanied her husband to the Diet at Mentz, where sixty—four princes, twelve thou-
sand knights andfamulz', assembled to establish ageneral peace, which was first drawn up in the German
language, and orally proclaimed. Frederic also presented the ambassadors with leopards, as the sup-
porters of the arms of the crown of England.

1' The citizens were then divided into twenty—two corporations. Many members of the council were
expelled, and some of the consuls decapitated. The same thing happened in 1513, on a fresh insurrec-
tion. The agreements among the citizens, of 1396 and 1513, with their Trungficr, or book of privileges,
served as a foundation for the more recent constitution. Further disturbances took place down to 1683,

and an Imperial commission, which sat at Mühlheim in 1687, ordered the ringleaders to be executed.

After that time every thing remained quiet.

COLOGNE. ‘ ' 145

' Thus the rulers and citizens of this free town were almost always in a state of
contest and dissension. Cologne was very often indeed a Colom'a barbara, and its
history a history of atrocities: whence, in knowledge and mental cultivation, it was
constantly about a hundred years behind other places. Hutten (Epistolte obscurorum
Virorum, 1518,) brandished his satirical scourge over the do'ctorcs obscuri, maga’strz’
Colonienses, and other wicked lovers of darkness of his time. The university, one
of the oldest in Germany, was founded in 1380 by the senate and clergy, and opened
in 1388. It was the daughter of that of Paris, and was endowed with the same
privileges by Pope Urban VI. It did not become a Rhenish Athensi". Magistei'
Duns Scotus, Ajlbertus Magnus, Thomas Aquinas, and Petrus de Ravenna, resided .
and taught in this university, though some of them only for a short period. The
orthodox Cologne gave birth to a heretic, namely Conrad Vorst, whose book dc Deo
Was ordered to be publicly burnt by King James I. of Great Britain, and who was
expelled the city in 1522. The wandering poly-historian Cornelius Agrippa von
Rettesheim+, who was born in Cologne, also found himself under the necessity of
selecting a more congenial situation. The great painter, statesman, and lawyer, Peter
Paul Rubens, and his brother Philip, a good Latin poet, Hans von Acken, and other
painters of distinction, were born in Cologne, which gives an importance to it in the
history of literature and art. St. Bruno, who founded the ‘Carthusian order in 1060,
and John Megestein, who, in the thirteenth century, improved the invention of clocks

of Gerbert, the Benedictine monk, were also natives of Cologne. Berthold Schwarz,

* Ulrich Zell, a pupil of „Schöfl'er, came from Mentz to Cologne in 1462, and founded the first
printing-establishment here in 1462.

+ His best works are, De Vanitate Scientiarum, De occulta Philosophia, and De Nobilitate Serus
Faemz'nei. His treatise on Mendicant Monks seemed favourable to Lutheranism. He died at Lyons in
1534. He was successively professor of theology at Pavia, private secretary to the Emperor Maximilian I,

hero, knight, and orator of the council at Pisa, physician to the mother of King Francis 1. of France,

and historiographer of the Emperor Charles V.

U

‘146 ' TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

the inventor of gunpowder, who first shewed its use to the Venetians in 1380, is also
said to have beenborn in Cologne.

There can be no doubt that the wonderful Cologne water, can de Coldgne,
was invented here in 1670*. Several Protestant families in the eighteenth century
were allowed, for the sake of trade, to reside in the town, without being admitted
to the privilege of citizens; but in the year 1797’ they were at length formally
restored by the French to the exercise of all civil rights, in honour of Christian hu-
manity. By the suppression of fifty-eight convents and fifty unnecessary chapels in
1802, of which the temporal property is said to have produced more than two hun-
dred millions of floriner, Cologne, for the last twenty years, has been a rich mine
of old pictures, which were kept in a very bad condition, and of which the worth
for the most part seems not to have been known. Restored by dexterous artists on
the spot, and burnished up with dazzling coloursi, they came to life again, and
found their way to every part of the world, where they served to announce the old-
new gospel of art of the original Netherland school of Cologne, beyond the pale of
which, according to its followers, there can be no salvation. It would have been
better, however, if such valuable collections had never changed their situation, but
remained in their native seat, to nourish a patriotic feeling of regard fur the ancient
splendour of the Rhenish provinces. The return of these productions to their native
home, might not perhaps be more advantageous to patriotism than to art itself; whose
votaries, in their affectionate devotion, would then be induced to make pilgrimages

* It is now manufactured by thirteen persons here, of whom F. M. Farina is considered to make the
most genuine. Of this artificial medicinal water from 1500 to 2000 cwts. are every year transmitted to
Frankfort on the Maine, for consumption and exportation.

+ £21,250,000 sterling—Trans.

I Not to mention other pictures which were newly daubed over for novices in art, and which may be
compared to new impressions of retouched copper-plates. People should also be on their guard against

foreign brokers in art, with their scoured-up pictures, which they would so willingly impose on the

unsuspecting buyers of Germany, laughing all the while at their ignorance of art, and stupidity.

COLOGNE. 147

to them. Thus the noble paintings/of Italy are always viewed by us with most

delight in l/zcz'r sacred home, in that serene and genial climate of art and nature.

OLD PAINTINGS.

In our dear native land, something like an extravagant idolatry in art, a char-

'!

latanism, an egotism, and a prejudiced partiality, has been hitherto fanatically
evinced for neu/[31 painted pictures of the above description, to which an unqualified
preference has been given over the best Italian paintings: when both, however, are
placed together, the impartial connoisseur will easily perceive the superiority in the
tummy oft/1e impression produced by the latter, from the more skilful manner in which
the drawings are executed, and the more natural manner in Which the colours are
blended. As young girls, though deficient both in bodily and mental developement,
may still be attractive and beautiful: in like manner these pictures appear attractive
in sepam/e parts, from the kind and powerful expression of pious love, humility, and
simplicity (not to mention silliness), and the dazzling display of colours, which
dispose us indulgently to overlook the stiff drapery of the misshapen figures, and
their deficiencies considered as a whole. Would Italians even pretend to prefer
Giovanni di Fiesole*‚ who was also a master in drawing and drapery, and a Man-
tegna, with his strength and fervency, to Raphael? There are German devotees of
ancient art who would make Raphael the first drawer of forms, because, “ since his
“ time, so much of the clearness, strength, and devotion of the good old school of
“A art, has been lost; while an affected lifeless mannerism, without technical per-

“ fectidh, has supplied its place.” This opinion ofa fortunate collector, and in other

* He was born in 1397, in Mug-e110, in the Florentine territories; and died at Rome in 1455, as
Fra Giovanni of the Dominicans. _ His temporal name was Santi Tosini. The wonderful picture which
is considered his master-piece, and which was formerly in the Dominican church at Fiesole, is now in
Paris. A splendid work in folio on the subject was published by A. W. Schlegel. Giovanni di Fiesole

painted also with water-colours, moistened by the white of eggs and the juice of herbs.

U2

I48 TOUR ALONG-THE RHINE.

respectsiestimable friend of art, cannot be applied to the great painters of Italy.-
The, excessive partiality which led to the expression of nearly similar sentiments in
the journal Europa so far back as 1803, is now disapproved of by the author himself;
and Gothe* has lately made it the subject of ironical animadversion in the second
number of his Views of Art and Antiquity. These old Rhenish pictures will always be
inestimable in an historical point of View, though nothing can be more ill-judged
than to compare them with the masterly productions of a later period; and they
ought to have a place in every considerable collection; in which,‘ however, they
should be kept separate, for the sake of heightening their efl'ect+.

Give to every one his due. Let every age and art have the honour to which they
are entitled. The partiality and prepossession in favour of these productions of the
darling middle ages (very middling for the most part), would soon be at an end in
Italy, if several young German artists, who have been absurdly imitating old Ger.
man, and still Older Italian pictures, in a stiff and hard manner, even to the errors
of cold landscapes without perspective, and who are labouring under a perversion
of judgment in another respect also, could once be converted. Yet this perversion

of taste is displayed even in Rome, beside Raphael and the antique, and in presence

* He also was at one time infected in some measure with the new fashion of admiration of old art;
but he was soon cured by his own peculiar genius, which seems to have strayed from Greece to Germany:
Vos eremplaria Gmca ‚'

+ These old pictures, which attained such sudden celebrity, have, by the new iconomachia, excited
a suflicient sensation in the German world of art during the last twenty years. In addition to this, several
Speculative possessors acquired them at a cheap rate, and became on that account in raptures with their
excellence. In England there is perhaps too strong a prepossession against them, for they are there
called cold, stifl; and tasteless. No pictures are even purchased or collected there, containing the penitent
Sinner Mary Magdalen, the bleeding Sun of God ardently embraced by the Holy Virgin, and God the Father,
represented with a long beard, or a death’s head; and they have particular reasons for this: such subjects
are called by them shocking. In Britain, where almost every species of cultivation is carried to the utmost

height, taste in art displays itself always in a peculiar and quite original manner.

COLOGNE. ' 1149

(of the immortal models of Poussin and Claude Lorrain! So that we must go back
‚to a less advanced period, to become more perfect in imperfect-ion” Fanaticism and
extravagance constitute frequently an epoch in the lives of many Germans, but it
also soon leaves them.

Eheu jam satis est!

REMARKABLE OBJECTS OF COLOGNE.
The Roman-German Cologne had its Capitol, Amphitheatre, and Campus Mar-

tius; its temples, gates, and towers, of which a few remains are only now to be seen.
The present Mart (or Market) gate was once called Porta Martz‘s; the High-gate
(Hoclzpforte), Porta Jovis; the Ehrenpforte, Porta Hertz, or szom's; the Ha/zncn/forte,
Porta Jam'. The New-market (Neumarkt) was once called Naumac/u'a, and the Arsenal,
Armamemarium. Beside it, in the hollow, lay the Amp/zitheatrum; and then the mili-
tary Prcetorz'um, of which the walls of a tower, exhibiting an admirable specimen of
an opus reticulatum vel lesselatum, and mural mosaic, still remain at St. Claren. An—
other tower, of similar Roman work, of an almost indestructible nature, stands at
the end of the Apostles’ church.

What is now called the High-street was formerly called Platea Jovis; the Drusen-
strasse (Drusen-street), Plated Drusi ; the Roman-street, Vicus Romanus; and the two
last were inclosed Within the Murus Castrensz’s. There are also streets here of Augustus
and Maximin._ The Vops, or Vz'ps-gassc, is said to be named after M. Vipsanius
Agrippa. A street is still named after the castellum (Castell—strasse}. The Praeto-
rz'um Civilc became the Council-house. The temple of Mars was converted into a
St. Michael’s chapel, the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus into a church of our Lady,
and the Palatium became first the Carolingian, and then the archiepiscopal burg.
The castellum of Drusus was situated on a flat eminence towards Rodenkirchen, and

the place is now called the Old Burg. The Ara sz’orum was in all probability on

“New—57m.“ _ __, _

150 TOUR ALONG THE RHI'NE.

the elevated grOund, formerly an island in the Rhine, and still called the Arc, beside

' the Arcngasse (Aren-street). - The manners and customs of the Ubii and Romans

were retained here for centuries. One of these was the Lustration festival (now no
longer celebrated) on midsummer eve, in which the ladies, bathing their arms and
hands in the Rhine, washed away all the sorrows of the past year*.

In ecclesiastical memorials and remarkable buildings, the German Rome, or
Holy Cologne, is extremely abundant. The churches of S. Maria in Capitolio
and ad Gradus were erected on two pagan hills. The latter, formerly a temple of
Venus Paphia, was afterwards the church of S. Mai-gen, or Mariengraden (also
Mariegreden and Marien-Garten), and was, on account of the dome, pulled down
by the French: in its place there is now alcolumn with the Prussian eagle on it.

Remains of the aqueduct, which was continued as far as Triers, are here and there

still visible. Charlemagne made a present of the Imperial palace on the Marien—

.gradenberge to Archbishop Hildebold, his chancellor, who built a cathedral close
beside it, which ceased‘ to be serviceable about the year 1230, when it was determined
that the present cathedral should gradually supply its place+. This summum tcmplum,
dedicated to the Apostle Peteri, an admirable specimen of old German architecture
(of which the architect or architects are unknown, though Albertus Magnus is said
to have had a great share inthe work), has, in its present incomplete state§ and
half-ruined appearance, more attractions for the fancy, than if it were entire. The

" Petrarca, who witnessed this solemnity in 1330, wondered what so many beautiful women could
be about, and asked his Cologne friends, in the words of Virgil, “ Quid vult concursus ad amnem?
“ Quidve petunt animaa ‚?”—Collection of Contributions to the History of the Town of Cologne, vol. I. Cologne,
1818. _ _ .

+ The stones are of a heavy greyish granitic porphyry, too much mixed with feldspar. A splendid
work, which was announced more than ten years ago, on the subject of this wonderful temple, will, it is
said, soon make its appearance, containing the old ground-plan, which has recently been discovered.

I This German temple was perhaps the cause of the erection of St. Peter’s at Rome.

& To finish this cathedral would be a hazardous and costly undertaking.

COLOGNE. . 151

two towers were, it is said, intended to exhibit‘a symbol ‘of spiritual and temporal
dominion. One of them was only raised 21 feet above the ground; and the other,
which is 250 feet in height, was only half finished*: it received the great and so-
norous bell, which weighs 225 cwt. in 1437. The shape of this temple, which is
that of a cross, is significant. It is supported by above one hundred large columns
and pilasters in all, of which the four middle pillars, 30 feet in circumference, are
highly deserving of admiration; but the boarded roof of the nave, which is not yet
completely finished, destroys, on a nearer View, the sublime impression of the whole.
The choir, however, which was completed in 1320+, and the upper and principal
part of the cross, with its Roman high altar of black marble, may almost be said to
be a foretaste of heaven. It is nobly ornamented with the most masterly decorations
of flowers, fruits, and foliage, of which the ramifications extend to the pillars and
the capitals, and are lost in the roof. We have here unity in the most wonderful
variety. All the windows are adorned with the most beautiful paintings. All is
love and devotion; all a heaven on earth! Even the attractive chiaro-’scuro of this
holy place is well calculated to excite solemn and pious feelings. It was consecrated,
in 1322, by Archbishop Henry II. von Virneburg, and the work of the nave was
continued for at least eighty years afterwards. The breaking out of the Reformation
interrupted the progress of the work, and prevented it from being completed. We
every where find an ingenious application of the number seven, from the Proverbs of
Solomon, on the altar, on the columns and tabernacles, and in the measurements
of the heights and breadths and lengths.

Behind the high altar, in the choir of the chapel of the Three Kings, believers '

* ‘The tower of 'the cathedral of Strasburg, which is completed in a beautiful manner, is 443 feet in
height.

+ Here are the monuments of Arclibishops Philip, Engelbert I. and Conrad von Hochsteden, which
were brought to this place, and renovated. Mary de Medicis found the rest of the grave here. Colossal

figures of Rubens are wrought into the tapestry of the choir.

1'59 ‘ TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

will find the chest centaining the relics, of which the exterior was. formerly richer in
gems and precious stones. This chest contains the bones of the Sages of the East,
or three holy Kings, named Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar; as also the bones of
Felix Nabor the martyr, and Gregory of Spoleto. The lovers of art, however, will
be attracted by the large and celebrated altar-piece, representing the Adoration of
the three Kings, with Maria, Gereon, and Ursula, the patrons of the city; which '
patrons, with their "trains, are also represented on the two side doors.

'It is quite uncertain whether this oil painting was executed before or after the
time-of Van Eyck, by aFlorentine (of the school of Giovanni di Fiesole, whe still
painted with water-colourS), or by a Low German, the founder of a problematical
Byzantine-Cologne school of painting, as it is called. L. Bettendorf affirms, it is
from the masterly hand of Martin Schön; and that the .MNOX rather denotes the
thousand years night of art, or 1460, than the date 1410. The unknown great
painter was certainly not named “ KALF,” according to certain hieroglyphical letters
on the sabre of a standard-bearer in the picture. If Albert Dürer even did net know
this master, he must be older than Martin Schön. He was probably a Colognian
formed in Italy, Who painted this picture for his native town*. The composition of
the whole is certainly agreeable and ingenious: it is an admirable monument for the
study of old art.

This picture of the patrons of Cologne has also given rise to a great deal of fana-
ticism-z it has been considered the quintessence of all sweetness, and ”the heaven of
beauty+. The countenance of the Queen of Heaven is, however, wonderfully

beautiful.

* It was a long time in the former Council chapel, 'at one time the Jews’ school. In Zeiler’s Meri-
am'sc/ze Topographie (1646), it is said, “ It is viewed by artists with astonishment.” Since 1810, it has
been admired in its present holy position.

rt Wallraf, the saviour and preserver of this picture in the French iconomachz’a, confesses, however,

that its faults are, “ thetoo thin knuckles of, the female hands, the angular position of the legs of the

. COLOGNE. . » 153

_ The church of St. Ursula, the distinguished British female, who, with eleven*.
virgins, landed at Cologne in 383, when Gratian was the Emperor of Rome, in order
to diffuse the Christian religion, is highly deserving of attention. She refused to
abjure this religion, on which account she, and other Christians from beyond the
Alps, were cruelly put to death by the savage Anti-Christians. Ursula became
afterwards the patroness saint of the peopleof Cologne. The historyiof this heroine
of our faith is affectingly represented in fascinating colours in the choir of the church.
The place of her death and grave was discovered to the faithful by the descent of
a dove, which was let fly for that purpose; and a church, singularly adorned with
skulls and bones, was then built on it. There is a beautiful marble figure of the saint

on her monument; with the following inscription:
“ SEPULCHRUM SANCTJE URSULJE, INDICIO COLUMBJE ERECTUM.”

The church of St. Gereon, the patron saint of the inhabitants of Cologne, sin-~
gularly built in a decagonal form, rises in proud splendour above the spot where
this pious hero, with the warriors of his Thebaean legion (in the dreadful times of
the tyrants DioCletian and Maximian), died the death of a martyr. It was erected,
in 1066, by Archbishop Anno. Two subterraneous chapels, with mosaic pavements, .
contain very old paintings on their walls.

The Lys or Lysolph church, built in the sixth or seventh century, contains a
vault or cell, where St. Maternus, a disciple of the Apostle Peter (deemed the first

“ men, and the deformity or disproportion of the feet.”——See Taschenbuch für Freunde der altdeutschen
Zeit und Kunst, p. 380. Cöllu. 1816.

* That there were eleven thousand is an extravagant fable. A legend expresses the number eleven
without the ciphers, as follows: “ Sancta Ursula et XI. M. V.” ( Martyres V irgines ) :. Saint Ursula and
eleven martyred Virgins. The opinion of Leibnitz, that one of them was called Ximilla, is too subtle.
Why should only one of them be named? The interpretation of eleven, derived from a consideration of

‚the number and letters of the legend, is more natural.

X

154 - TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

Bishop of Cologne), is said to have preached, and where it is also said his body was
interred*.

On the site of the Roman-German Capitol stands the oldest collegiate church
of Cologne, called S. Maria in Capitolio, founded by Plectrudis, the wife of Pepin,
and rebuilt by Archbishop Anno II. in 1050. _Here there is a beautiful altar-piece
by Dürer. The exiled Mary de Medicis, Queen of Henry IV. of France, ended
her life in the foundation for noble females belonging to it.

The church of the Twelve Apostles, founded in the eleventh century, has a num-
ber of small towers, and an hexagonal double cupola; and is ornamented by the
simple and pious inscription—“ DEO.” > _

In St. Peter’s church, where Rubens was baptized in 1577, ‘a master-piece of
that great man is again viewed with admiration—the Cruczfirion of the Apostle. It was
bestowed by him with pious gratitude to this church in 1632, and it was conveyed,
along with the pillage of art, to Paris in 1794, from whence it returned in 1815.

In the choir of the church of the Minorites, there is a monument of the learned

Duns, surnamed Scotus, who died in 1308, ‘with the following inscription:

Scotia me genuit, Anglia me suscepit,

Gallia me docuit, Colonia me tenet.

The materials of the stone bridge which connected Cologne with Deutz in the
time of the Emperor Constantine, were employed in the erection of the church of
St. Pantaleon, in 954, in which Theophania, the daughter of the Greek emperor,
and wife of Otho II. was buried. She presented to the church the body of St.
Alban, who was beheaded in Britain, as a martyr for the faith, in the third century.

The church of the Ascension of the Virgin (formerly the Jesuits’ church), with

" The church of the Holy Mother of God, in the Schnurgasse, formerly filled with beautiful pictures,

and very much visited, but which unfortunately now belongs to a quarter of the town, mournfully laments

its suppression.

' COLOGNE. 155

its beautiful marble floor, and choir adorned by enchanting landscapes and other
pictures berornelius Schiifl', is truly an ornament of the town. .

The Friendly church, formerly belonging to the order of St. Anthony, but which
is now the temple of the United Evangelical congregation, contains an old painting
of the Crucifixion on glass.

The Library, and the Council-House, with its singular tower, proud portal, and
Hanseatic hall, and many attractive pictures, are also well worth seeing. The Arse-
nal was emptied by the French, and converted into a riding-school! It was partly
built in the massive town-wall of the Ubii, which extends also beyond this edifice.

Were it not an. antiquarian fable, we might mention, that the nunnery of St. Apol-
lonia, in Mummerslaach (or Mommersloch), received its appellation from ldcus
.Mummz‘us and a familie ]llummia, which, with fourteen other families, settled at
Cologne under Trajan’“. The Porta Pap/1221 of the Romans, where the temple of
Venus formerly stood, is now called the Paphen-gate, and not Pfafl'en-gatef. The
four letters of its inscription, “ C. C. A. A.” signify Colonz'a' Claudia Agrzppina Au-
gusta. The Eigelstein (which does not derive its name from ez'c/zel, acorn, but from
az'gle, eigel, eagle,) resembles that of Mentz and the Igelstein at Triers. They are
monuments in honour of Drusus erected here and there by the legions; though a
different origin has been assigned to this stone. The Franken-thurm (tower of the
Franks) is connected with'six other towers on the Rhine. Archbishop Engelbert II.
built the Bayen or Bayen-thurm on the Rhine, to secure access to the river, and de-
fend him against the inhabitants of Cologne; though it was soon afterwards taken

by them. The long street called the Schilder-strasse was, in the times when the arts

* It still survives under the German name Mumm, and returned from the territories of Berg to Co-

logne. The old families von der Aducht (ab aqua ductu) and Overstolze are extinct; that of Walrave

is still in existence.

+ Pfafikn signifies priest—Trans.

„___ :».‚bw ’ 1i\‚__4—._„ 'zszMW”: ,

156 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

flourished in Cologne, inhabited by admirable painters and other artists, who adorned
the numerous churches, convents, and chapels with their works. The painters and _
statuaries had their corporation in Cologne, when all classes were incorporated. The
house in which Rubens* was born, and that in which Mary de Medicis first lived in
her exile, are still to be seen.

The territory of the formerly free town of Cologne lay within the walls, and the
fourth part of it still consists in gardens.

This large and gloomy town, without suburbs, with its narrow angular streets,
contained at one time more than ten thousand inhabited houses; between twenty and
thirty thousand citizens capable of bearing arms, and two thousand clergy. It now
contains seven thousand four hundred houses (which do not possess, garret—rooms),

and forty-nine thousand inhabitants, of whom fifteen hundred are Protestants, and

about three hundred Jews. Cologne is three leagues in extent, still possesses thirty

- churches, eighty-three towers on the town-walls, and thirteen gates+. It ranks,

with Vienna, Berlin,‘and Hamburg, as one of the largest cities of Germany: it
has, however, survived itselfxin some manner, and become half-ruined, and in many
places presents a scene of devastation. Here and there, and especially about the
churches, it still swarms with beggars, of ' whom there was formerly a band of ten
thousand, constituting an order of piously savage idlers, who were in the enjoyment,

as it were, of ecclesiastical privileges, and who frequently exercised their right of

* In the house of the Groot family, there is a large picture by Lebrun, representing Jabach, the
friend to art, and his family.

1° Among the present industrious establishments of the town of Cologne are, three manufactories of
delf—ware, three looking-glass-manufactories, forty-six tanneries, one hundred and nine breweries, one
hundred and seventy-two brandy-distilleries, four soap—works, twelve oil-mills, twenty corn-mills, three
gypsum-mills, and several ribbon-manufactories, which have suffered greatly from queues being no longer

in vogue.

.V-sun'
“.,-_» :

COLOGNE. * i 157

begging with vehement abuse. These Rhenish Lazzaroni slept and lodged com-
fortably in nooks of the walls of convents, churches, and chapels, from which they
were fed, as hereditary places, the legitimacy of which no one contested with; an-
other. They have now become more useful members of the state in manufactories,
work and correction-houses. Such a race of human beings amidst the magnificent
scenes on the Rhine! .

The love of art and antiquities has been the inheritance of the families of Co-
logne from a remote period down to our own times*, although Cologne has been
reduced by degrees to a condition-in which it may say, Fui Colonia! From Deutz+‚
which is much frequented by parties of pleasure from Cologne, the city appears like
a large amphitheatre, with masts of ships and church-towers rising out of it., The
flying bridge, constantly swinging backwards and forwards, gives animation to the
stream and its banks: it was first constructed about the year 1675. Cologneyfor
nearly twenty years (from the 6th October, 1794, to the 14th January, 1814), remained

in the possession of the French; till it was liberated by the victorious allies, parti-

* The memory of the late antiquaries and collectors, Gelenius, Hübsch, and Clasen, are still che-
rished here. The liberal Professor Wallraf, who patriotically presented his collections of art and anti-
quity to his beloved native town (an intention which he would have carried sooner into execution had a
place been set apart for their reception), is a remarkable character. We may also see valuable pictures
in the possession of the worthy F ochem, pastor of St. Ursula, and other friends of art. The Bettendorf
collection in Aix—la-Chapelle, which is not sufficiently known, is very rich, especially in old paintings,
with some Italian pieces, among which is the admirable representation of the Eve of the Birth (f Christ,
with the Matrons standing around, by Corregio.

1— If this Duitz, or Tuits ( Tuitium ), was an ancient place bearing: the name of Teut, and also a town
of the Ubii, Caesar could hardly have passed the Rhine there; or if he had, he would at least have men-
tioned it. ‚

I Since the occupation of the old Franks, nothing but the name of Colonia remained to this German-

Roman colony-town.

_ -_....c~m.m¢¢-o“¢__ _b‘. "

‚(ra

, ‘ 1W...“ ‚„. s
, .*wfjhwf—Y—Tw’“*i‚ ,

158 TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

cularly the Russians, on St. Felix’s day*. This Colonia Borussz'ca is now surrounded
by new fortifications, that it may never again become a colony of southern levellers,
or Gallic Ubiif Though the country on the Rhine has been called a Prussian colony,
it will soon be, what it once was, a German country, making a part of the Germa—
m'a omnis in the German union. The free navigation of the Rhine in large and small
vessels, in what manner soever, and whithersoever the liberal stream may carry them,
and the abolition of the antiquated staple-right possessed by various places along its
banks, down to its entrance into the sea‘ at Dordrecht, are piously and fervently
wished for by the age. Although the Rhine divides itself into two arms, and changes
its form and name in Holland, and its smallest middle branch, which continues to
bear the name of Rhine, loses itself in the sands at Leyden; yet surely the proud
Batavia, the co-operating influence of which is now so often beneficially felt in the
German union, will not derive its Dutch sea-right from the powerful stream of Ger-
many, 'to which it was chiefly indebted for its old prosperity; and the old Colonia
will then make a sacrifice of its staple and other oppressive rights, for the common
good of the country. The bold conquerors, Charlemagne and Nicholas+ Napoleon

the insatiablei, during their occupation of the country on the] left bank of the Rhine,

* Cologne would almost have been a fifth or seventh German free town (and enlightened Catholics
considered such a piece of liberality as called for by the spirit of the times), if its inhabitants of the
Evangelic persuasion had been admitted to the honour of seats in the council, in the manner in which
Catholics were admitted at Frankfort, where such a measure had given great satisfaction. But what would
have been the consequences of such an admission on the intolerance and licentiousness of the populace
here?

1“ Nicholas is, I presume, applied here to Napoleon, because St. Nicholas was the patron saint of
thieves and robbers—Trans.

I Bonaparte became soon after his consulship a Malaparte! Instead of using his power like a Timoleon,
this man chose rather to remain a subjugator and usurper, who for nine years filled Europe with dead

bodies and ruins, covered it with shame and ignominy, caused the death of from five to six millions of

ckv.MÄ‘3A).m—a}„> „„, ‚„...; if’i g ‚_ 1 ,

COLOGNE. 159:

effected many changes in its condition. Both were scourges of the nations, and
cruel destroyers of the human race: the former has an excuse in the barbarism of
his age; the latter has noexcuse. He was perhaps impelled by theseverevdestiny of
the nations, to come forward and act-ashe did, in order to unite the irritated people-
of Europe and «their leaders, for their common interests and the interest of human

nature.

0

Im Glück ein Held (nicht in der Noth),
Dem Keiner gleicht und glich,
Er lebte seinen Ruhm zu Tod

Und überlebt nun sich.

In Fortune’s smile a hero (not her frown),
Whom no one ever yet surpass’d:
He first outlived his own renown,

And now outlives himself at last.

men, and rendered at least twice that number completely miserable. It is singular enough, that such a.
Nero of this age should still have his foreign admirers and partisans! He by no means possessed the spirit
of a Caesar in good and bad fortune. How little also does the hero Napoleon appear when compared
with the great Frederic! He deceived many hopes, some of them lightly enough formed, and deceived
humanity. Thus has he retired pettily from the theatre of the world, to die ingloriously a living death,
in an exile which he has at least amply merited. In that exile he is still well attended to, and lives tole-
rablg/ well ; and a Bonavita, who has the charge of his soul, may prepare him for a better life. What he
gave, or rather what was already given before his accession to power, and which could not be resumed,
was freedom'of conscience. Without the all-decisive battle of Belle Alliance, of the conquering Germans
and Britohs at Waterloo (the modern Pharsalia or Actium, of a better description than the ancient), the
battle of Leipsic would only have been a palliative against the exertions of the conqueror to recover his
ascendency, and the left bank of the Rhine would have also been lost to Germany for ever. That great
victory was achieved by Protestants, who protested, with mind, courage, and energy, against a new tem—

poral universal tyranny.

160 . TOUR ALONG THE RHINE.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OE COLOGNE.

From the eastern side of the Rhine, we have here a near view of this ancient and remarkable city,
withits harbour full of vessels, its protecting Bayen-thurm, and grey towered churches, among which the
noble cathedral and the large church of St. Gereon are particularly distinguished. Opposite to Cologne,

we perceive the town of Deutz, where the flying bridge over the Rhine terminates.

.

 

 

 

161

APPENDIX.

ACCOUNT OF EMBS AND ITS ENVIRONS.

EMBS.

Gruss EMBASIA! dir, dn Zärtlichpfiegende Nymphe,
} Die, von Quellen umtönt, waltet am Ufer der Lahn.
Emmsrs nannten dich einst hochsinnige Griechen und Römer,
Und mit der Palme des_Ruhms trägst du den Namen hinfort.
Römer weilten auch hier und KEMNAU’S herrschender Hochwald,

Zeigt mit dem PFAHLBERG noch ihre gewaltige Spur.

Euusu, kindly fostering nymph, all hail!
Amidst thy fountains, on the Lahn’s fair banks.

In former times the aspiring sons of Greece

And Rome call’d thee Emnsrs, and the name
Thou still dost bear. Here too the Romans dwelt,
And the commanding wooded heights of KEMNAI

Shew, with the PFAHLBERG, traces of their power.

EMBS, Wiesbaden, Baden in Swabia, and Baden at Vienna, are among the oldest
medicinaT baths in Germany. They were all of them brought into notice by the
Romans, and it is probable that Embs received the name of Embasis, signifying a
bathing-vessel, from Grecian physicians under the Romans. The frequenters of this
bath, who are fond of antiquities, must be'pleased to learn, that etymology would

lead us to pronounce, that Embs, and not Camp, as has hitherto been supposed, was,

Y

169 APPENDIX.

the vicus Ambiatz'nus where, in a camp, Agrippina I.* the wife of Germanicus, is said
to have given birth to Caligula+. Thus the virtuoüs Roman matron must have tried
the waters of the, Bubenquell, though the birth of a wicked tyrant sufficiently proved,
that in her case their influence was far from beneficial. Suetonius, following Pliny the
younger, observes, in the eighth chapter of his Life of Caligula, that an altar was
erected in memory of this event, with the inscription, “ OB AGRIPPINZE PUER-
“ PERIUMi.” That there was a Roman vicus here is proved by the urns, pitchers,
lamps, coins, and walls, which were found in. cutting a road through the hill between
Bad-Embs and Dorf-Embs, in 1813. In a church record, more than three hundred
and fifty years old, belonging to Dausenau, a neighbouring village, Embs is called
Hembesse. When Tiberius began to draw the Roman vallum, called the Pfahlgraben,
round the Taunus mountains, as a defence against the Catti and Sigambri, Embs
was without doubt inclosed within it; and the foundations, and part of the walls of
an advanced work which was constructed here, are still to be seen at the Orange
bathing-house, where there was a town in the middle ages. Here also were found
Coins of Tiberius, and some of those which the noble-minded Germanicus caused to
be struck and distributed to the legions, who were desirous of electing him as em-
peror; which coins are inscribed “ N. A. P. R.” ( Nobz’s a populo Romano concessa);

and also “ I. N. T.” ( In nomz‘ne Tiberii}. Embs, at a later period, formed a part

* The grand-daughter of Augustus, and daughter of the fair Julia, married to Agrippa, and cele-
brated by Ovid under the name of Corinna.
+ He was born on the 31st August, in the year of Rome 746, eight years before the commencement

of the Christian era. When Caligula became emperor, the legions, in winter quarters on the Rhine and

elsewhere, sang,

In castris natus, patriis nutritus in armis,
Jam designati principis omen erat.
I Suetonius, however, considered Antium as the birthplace of Caligula; and in that case neutrum puer-

perium ‚might receive a female interpretation; for in this region Agrippina bore two daughters, one at

Cologne, Agrippina II. and the other, Livilla, probably at this place.

EMBS AND ITS ENVIRONS. 163

of the Einrich-Gau'; andlin 1173 it belonged, under the name of Eymez, to the
Counts of Arnstein, who became extinct in 11-85. „It came next into the hands of
the Counts of Nassau and Katzenelnbogen“. It rose in reputation in the sixteenth
century; and, by family compact, the part of the former lordship of Embs belonging
to Katz-enelnbogen, with Braubach, was ceded to Hesse-Darmstadt. In the period
between 15.70 and 1583, the Landgrave William IV. made additions to the venerable
bathing-house, of which the central structure was built about the year 1500. The
Landgrave Ernest Louis erected one wing in 1680. The more recent wing, which
took its name from the family of Orange-Nassau, was erected in 1720. This wing
contains forty—two baths, of which two are in chambers, supplied by means 'of pipes
and pumps, and three are warm springs for drinking. In the other wing, there are
four war-m springs for drinking; and it contains the three principal springs,-the
Kränchens, Kestel, and Wappen, or Augenborn, with the strongest medicinal springs+,
which rise at a warmth of 23, 31, and even 40 degrees of Reaumur (‘73, 87, and
104 of Fahrenheit). Among these springs is the attractive Bubenquelli, as it is
called, of which the effects have so often gratified the wishes of those who have had
recourse to it:

Gattinnen, die noch nicht schön blühender Kinder sich freuen

Flehen dich Embasis nicht sonder Erhörungen zu.

To thee, Embasis, wives repair, from whom
The joy of blooming children is withheld,
And supplicate thy aid, seldom denied.

* Documents between 1355 and 1403 mention the warm baths of Empts.

1- The Stone-House here contains fountains in a cellar, of which the heat is 30 (86 of Fahrenheit).
The workmanship of these fountains is probably Roman.

It Bubenquell, a compound of babe, and quelle, a spring. Babe, in ordinary German, signifies a knave,
or worthless person; but in the Alemannish dialect, and in the commonlanguage of Upper Germany, in

general, it means a boy. In this sense Bubenquell signifies literally Boy-spring.

Y2

166 ' APPENDIX.

Sigambri, mentioned by Tacitus*, were in all probability situated here+. In the
openings of the mines at Holzappel and Embs, were found primeval decayed ’
oaks. The fascinating aspect of the silver in the chemical separation of the noble
metal from the rough ore, attracts many of the patients of this watering-place to
the lead and silver forges of Embs. This place was inclosed within the Roman wall,
or Pfahlgraben, and protected by four subsidiary works at the main pass of the hill,
of which the traces are still visible. Every thing in this neighbourhood possesses
charms for the antiquaryt He will pursue unweariedly the Pfahlgraben, which was
of great strength here, and which runs through the Hochwald, where a stone wall,
of a date anterior to the time of the Romans, is still to be seen at Huban. It then
ascends the First, and rising at the old village of Kemnau: like a ladder towards the
sky, it divides the Pfahlsberg behind Bad-Embs, and in its descent crosses the Lahn,
or Lon (Longana). Spiess, on the other side of the Lahn, still reminds the 'antiquary
of a Roman station which probably existed there. From thence the Pfahlgraben
proceeds through the mountain-gorge of Braunnbach in rather .a crooked direction,
behind Scheuern, near Nassau, and continues its course along the Taunus, but not
in a descending course towards Oberlahnstein and Braubach, as has been erroneously
affirmed for centuries, even by learned antiquaries§.

The approach to the little town of Nassau, a place of the greatest antiquity, is
highly delightful; and its beautiful burgs of Nassau and Stein, the latter reposing on

* Ann. L. i. C. 20.

+ Others suppose these mines to have been more in the interior of the Nassau territories,at Deisbach,
Nauroth, and Altenweilnau. They may possibly have been situated there.

I Kemnau (High Ascent) is derived from the Celtic word kim, signifying height.

§ This discovery, which is not unimportant for the knowledge of antiquity, with that of the Pfahls-
grabenberg behind Embs, was made by the author in August 1812*.

* The translator was led to adopt the erroneous opinion here refuted by the author, in a note on the subject of the Pfahl-
graben, p. 13. It may be proper to observe, that this part of the text has come into his hands since the commencement of

the publication, and he was not aware that the author intended to give any account of the Pfahlgraben.——Trans.

EMBS AND ITS ENVIRONS. 167

the former like a child on its mother’s bosom, enthroned on the high Schmidtley,
have a surprisingly grand appearance. The Mühlbach, formerly called ZVIiclana, pro-
ceeds in a winding course from the village of Scheuern along the bottom of the ver-
dant and detached hills, and soon joins therapid Lahn. The town of Nassau was
the oldest seat of the Ottonian branch of the Salian family, from which the Counts
of Nassau are sprung; it continued, along with the burg, in the common possession
of the family. A Carolingian or Frankish court (curtz's Nassowa}, which was possessed
by the Emperor Conrad *I. and given by' him to Weilburg’“, was unquestionably
situated here, in the valley on both sides of the Lahn. A family of the name of von
Nass (de Nassauwe), mentioned in writings between 1211 and 1503, became extinct
at the last of these periods.

The Tusculum of Baron von Stein forms the ornament of this old town. In the
erection of a new burg here, and in the manner in which it is ornamented, the baron

has displayed the greatest taste.

‘ According to the document, dated in 915, in Orig. Guelph. T. iv. p. 275; and Kremer, Orig. Nassoic.
P. ii. Dipl. p. 56.

168 _ APPENDIX. ‘

THE BURG OF NASSAU.

Freundlich thront im Sonnenglanz Nassovia’s Burgschlon,
Wo MIELANA sich froh stürzt in die Arme der Lahn.
Hier und am Taunus am Rhein und dort am Batavischen Weltmeer

Blüht das erhaben Geschlecht völkerbeglückend hinfort.

Where Mielana with joy flies to embrace

The rapid Lahn, NASSOVIA’S ancient burg
Gladdens the view, enthroned in the sun’s ray.
Here, and where Taunus rises from the Rhine,
And where the ocean laves Batavia’s shores,
Flourish the noble race of Nassau, still

The source of joy to all beneath their sway.

THIS burg, and its heroic race, are connected with the great deeds and events in
history achieved by the free-minded Batavians and proud Britons in defence of their "
religious independence against fanatical despotism. From the tower of the burg,~
which is in good preservation, we overlook the charming hills and vallies through
which the Lahn pursues his winding course. Beneath the burg is the dungeon for
malefactors; and the majestic ruins, grown over with ivy, are surrounded by pleasure-
walks and seats.

The burg is, properly speaking, merely an original burg of the name of the Counts
of Nassau. It was built in all probability about the year 1060*, in the reign of the
Emperor Henry IV. by the friend of his youth, Wernher II. Gaugrave of the Lahn,
who, like Henry, was not friendly to the clergy, and received back from the em-
peror the property of Weilburg, which the chapter of Worms had contrived to ob-
tain from his mother Agnes. Wernher died in 1066, and his brother craftily obtained

a The following circumstance, it is said, led to the building of this burg. A stag, pursued by the

hunters, sprung from the Wet Vallies (Nassen Auen) up the hill, when it was caught alive among the

bushes. Such is the tradition on the Lahn respecting the origin of the burg; as to the truth of which,

we shall not attempt to decide.

'THE BUR’G OF NASSAU. 169

Dudo, the first Count of Luremburg or Lauremburg, who lived about the year 1114,
in all probability completed the erection of the burg. The following Counts of
Lauremburg took also the title of Counts of Nassowe, from the burg and the old
royal court. It is related, that Bishop Azecho of Worms, of the Lauremburg fa-
mily, according to a printed document* of the year 1034, made a donation of a
“ praedium, proprio labore suo+ et libera manu acquisitum," which was of course
a newly acquired estate, and also an estate here craftily obtained from the Em-
peror Conrad Il . (which was not hereditary) of forty lea/Jeni, or acres§. The
Counts of Lauremburg, particularly Rupert ‚and Arnold, were in perpetual feuds
on account of their burg of Nass, their right to which they continued to assert; and
they were at last involved in a contest with Bucho (Burkhard II.), the warlike
Bishop of Worms, to whom the weak Emperor Lotharius II. shortly before his death
in 1136, improperly promised the possession of the hill and the burg. The whole
was given in exchange by Bishop Conrad I. to Gillin, the powerful Archbishop of

* Schannat, Hist. W'ormat. in Probat. N. L. V. p. 51; and Kremer Orig. Nassoic. T. ll. p. 109.

1- This peculiar free-lzanded work was an altar at Worms, erected and consecrated by the cunning
bishop to the holy martyrs Hippolytus and Nicomedes, on which the over-liberal emperor threw away a.
crown estate of 1200 morgen of land! O sancla simplicitas.’

I A hub or Ing“ of land, an indefinite measure, like our plough-land (which, by the way, is incorrectly
defined by Johnson “ a farm for corn,” it being equivalent to the Scotch ploug/lgate, and meaning properly
as much land as one plough can plough in a year, as he'might have seen in Bailey, or from his own cita—
tions). The lmb, according to Frisch, was praedium rusticum rel tantum agri unde colonus secum familia sus-
tentare potest ; and the quantity generally understood was triginta jugera terrae aratoriae, though it varied
from sixty te fifteen acres—Trans.

§ The author, whether from the document or not I am unaware, uses mannwerk as synonymous with
hub (vierzig haben oder mannwerken). I have in the preceding note given a general idea of hub, and I find
that Frisch and Haltaus translate mannwerk, _jugerum. In one of Haltaus’s Citations it is thus described :

“ Mannwerc/z dicitur quod uni airo commättitur ad colendum, et est tantum terrae quantum par boum in

“ die arare sufficet.”——Trans.

Z

170 APPENDIX.

Triers, in 1158, for an estate at Gardenheim. The beautiful Beatrix, widow of the
deceased Count Rupert, immediately demanded back from him the burg as the seat
of the family name, and the adjoining land as an original and hereditary estate of
the family, in favour of Arnold and Walram, her descendants; and she obtained both
as a fief, on payment of one hundred and fifty marks of silver. However, the title,
which had been lawfully taken from this possession, continued to be borne by the
Counts of Lauremburg and Nassau. These counts having soon afterwards succeeded
to the lands of the Arnstein family, came to be exceedingly powerful, and their
claims were no longer contested. The royal court (A'änz'gsluyf) and the burg-fort of
Nassowe afford astriking proof of the covetousness and ambition of the clergy in
the rude middle ages, and of the abuses which took place with respect to Imperial
pledges. The whole of the surrounding country belonged to the Francz'a Orientalz's,
and was immediate Imperial land.

On the western part of this hill of rock riSes, in picturesque ruins, and amidst
pleasure-grounds adorned with a new detached temple, the burg of Stein, belonging
to the very ancient family of Stein-Nass, and a fief of Nassau from the end of the
thirteenth century. Its date is from fifty to a hundred years later than that of the
burg of Nass, and it was built on the curtis adjacens, on the declivity of the hill, and
gave to its possessors the name de Lapide, vom Stein, under which name this eques-
trian family still continues to flourish. They. first dwelt in the valley of the Muhlaue,
and possessed eight villages of the head jurisdiction, a possession which they acquired as
a Salian allodial property. To the Lords von Stein belonged also an estate at Worms
in the eleventh century, the burg of Rheinberg at Braubach in the fifteenth, and the
older burg of Sayn down to the eighteenth century. This family still possesses con-

siderable estates on the Lahn*, and in 1816 received a crown estate in Prussian

* When the great tyrant of Europe wished to confiscate without ceremony the estates of the nommé

Stein in 1811, and to convert the pillage into a dotation for one of his favourites, the worthy Duke of

THE BURG OF NASSAU. 171

Westphalia, as a reward for Baron von Stein’s services to his country; and though
it should become extinct in the male line, it is immortalized in its last descendant:
Scmper honos nomenque tuum, laudesque manebunt’“. Richly overgrown with ivy, ap-
pears before us, in all its splendour, the burg of this firm and immoveable German,

called, from his strength of mind, the Luther of our age:

Als der edelste Spross, unsclavischen Sinus—VON STEINT auch

Niemals beugte das Haupt vor dem Verwüster der Welt:

Scion of noble stock, noble in mind,
Who never bowed his head, ne’er homage paid,

To the world’s ruthless scourge:

and who was often a guiding star to our country in the years of our liberation. A
grateful posterity will associate his name and that of Catharina Paulownai, whom
_ a premature death called from this earthly scene, with the great recollections of

that period.

Nassau interfered, and would not allow such a proceeding to take place. The estates were indeed placed
under sequestration, but administered for the benefit of the legitimate possessor, to whom they were de-
livered over in 1813, with the sums which had been received from them during the sequestration.

* Baron von Stein was at the helm of affairs in Prussia, and the prime mover in the resistance
organized against France in 1813.—Trans.

+ “ Against this Stone*, the Goliah Napoleon stumbled and fell, never to rise again.”—See Kirchner’s
Ansichten von Frankfurt am Mayn, &c. 1818. Neptune and Britannia will take care that this Prometheus,
though not chained to the rock of St. Helena, shall yet never more be able to leave it. Let his own con-
science bc-the vulture. .

1 Her memory is fondly cherished in Wiesbaden, where she passed the memorable summer of 1815

in peace and happiness. She gained health, and bestowed health.

* Stein in German means stone.—Trans.

ZQ

172 APPENDIX.

EXPLANATION OF THE MAP.

TRIBES AND OCCUPIERS.

THIS region comprehends the most beautiful part of all Germany, and the most remarkable considered
with reference to antiquity. In the earliest times it was inhabited by Istaavones (inhabitants of the west),
by Cimbri and Teutones (inhabitants.of the hills and vallies); it was next occupied by Celts, who came
from the east, and of whom a part extended themselves into Gaul ; and also by Gauls, under their
leader Sigovesus (Sieg vest*), and perhaps by the Teucteri and Menapii. The Suevi (Schweifer'f) then
made their appearance from the north-east, and the lands on the right bank of the Rhine to the influx
of the Lahn belonged to the Hundred Districts, and the Germanic or Heermannicx union of this warlike
people, of whom Caesar makes respectful mention, when Ariovistus§, their leader, contended with him
for the dominion of Gaul. The Ubii, Usipetes and J uhones, Catti and Mattiaci, Cattuarii or Catti of the
Aar, the Sigambri or Sieg-gauers; and on the left of the Rhine, the Mediomatrici, Wangiones (Won:
negauers), Treviri (True-men), and Condrusii, with conquering Romans, next possessed this country
The Buccinobantes and Taunenses (the people of the neighbourhood of the Taunus) possessed it at a
later period ; the Allemanni, at a still later period, occupied in succession the regions of the Middle Rhine;
and at last, the Northern Franks, Ripuarianstor Franks on the banks of the river, Salians and Caro-
lingians, made their appearance, who divided the country into smaller gaus, or districts.

In the following age, the gaugraves, of whom those of Arnstein, Dietz, Nürings, and Lauremburg,
were of importance, disappeared, and their place was filled by dynasts, or lords.

From the wars in which the emperors were engaged at a distance from Germany, particularly in Italy,
the servants, or ministeriales, of the Empire, were enabled to extend their power, and they availed them-
selves of every pretext for encroachment. By gifts or fiefs, they also contrived to obtain the hereditary
estates and forests of the Empire.

Besides the ministeriales and equestrian families, the Counts of Nassau, Katzenelnbogen, and Solms,
with other counts and princes, gradually arose. The archbishops became electors, possessed of spiritual

. and temporal authority; the Imperial municipal towns became free Imperial towns. Thus Germany

* Sieg vest, a tower or fortress of victory.—Trans.
+ Schweifcr, mamas—Trans.
1 Heermännisch, from Heer-mann, awar-man, or soldier.—Trans.

§ See note on the name Ariovz'stus, p. 122.

“J

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EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 173

remained for centuries in the enjoyment of various privileges and possessions, till the left bank of the
Rhine was first un-Germanized in 1798, and then in the Imperial peace (the, reverse of peace), in 1803,
the old splendour of Germany was obscured. The remaining parts of Germany received a new and
more powerful conformation in the unholy Confederation of the Rhine between 1806 and 1813, whereby
they were soon enabled to turn their arms against the oppressor; and at last, the whole of them, with the
left of the Rhine, now wrungfrom France, entered, in 1815, into the German Confederation, and re-

verted lawfully to Germany.
MINERAL SPRINGS.

No part of Germany, and indeed no part of Europe, is so rich in medicinal baths and springs, as the
country between the Lahu, the Rhine, Maine, and the Taunus mountains, to which mountains they all
owe their origin. There are more than a hundred of these springs, of various qualities.

The baths of Schwalheim, Schwalbach, and the loWer county of Katzenelnbogen, of the Werkbach,
in the Sauerthal of the Rheingau, and of Dinkhold, are chalybeate; the springs of Homburg, Kronberg,
Selters, Fachingen, Geilnau, and Embs, and those of Tonnstein,'Hei1brunn, Godesberg, and the Schlan-
genbad, are alkaline; the spring of Weilbach is sulphureous; and Wiesbaden and Soden are muriatic.
All of them take their course from east to west, like the ores in the mountains, the beds of which are more

powerful when opened from the west towards the east. These springs are marked green on the map.

SALT SPRINGS.

The country of the Taunus is also rich in salt springs. They are to be found at Wisselsheim, Nau-
heim, Fauerbach, Utphe, Nidda, Homburg, Kronberg, Soden, Wiesbaden, Elfeld, and Oberlahnstein,
and extend as far as Kreuzenach. All of them run from the north-east towards the south-west. They are
marked in the map with yellow points.

STONE WALLS.

These walls, marked blue on the map, are principally to be found between Kronberg and Homburg
on the Altko'nig, which is trebly girt round with them; on the Thalwegs—berg (the great and small white
wall, and the Alle Höfe, and also the gold-quarry); on the Kellerskopf, or Kohlerskopf, and Schlafers-
kopf atWiesbaden, in the vicinity of which are the great and small Rent-Mauer, the Steinrassel, and
Wirz or VVehrs-burg. Traces of them are also to be found in the Rheingau, particularly on the Raben-
kopf and at Bingen, a line of defence visible on the heights from Homburg to Rüdesheim. These enig—
matical stone or ring walls (from the masses of stone, reminding us of Stone-Henge in England,) are of
Celtic origin according to some, and of German origin according to others. They are a rude display

of power on the part of people in a state of nature; and were piled up, first as a defence against the

174 ' APPENDIX.

Gauls, and afterwards against the Romans, for which purpose they were still used by the Allemanni in the

time of Valentinian. It deserves to be remarked, that these piles appear for the most part towards the

south and west, rather than towards the east and north. There are old roads which lead to them.
ROMAN CASTELLA. ‘

The ruins of these castella still in existence are marked by a red quadrangle on the map. Oli the
point of the Maine there is one of these fortresses, formerly called Trajansburg, afterwards Gustavsburg;
and there is the Castell at Mentz, and the Amoeneburg at Biebrich. Descending the Rhine, we find them
at Elfeld and Heidenfahrt, Bingen and Rüdesheim; and lower down still, at Lorch and Bacharach, Caub
(Cuba), ahd Oberwesel, Boppard and Camp (Campus), Coblentz and Andernach, Sinzig and Linz, Re-
magen, Bonn, and Geusen ( Gesom‘a ), of which those on the right of the Rhine served as tétes-de-pont.
They are to be found also at the Pfahlgraben in the Seven Mountains (Siebengebirg), on the heights at
Neuwied, and at the Alteck. Ascending the Lahn, we find them again at Bad-Embs and Spiess; the
ruins of those erected along the Pfahlgraben, in order to cover it, are‘still to be seen at Becheln, Schweig-
hausen, Holzhausen on the Heath (still in beautiful preservation), and Kernel; at Wiesbaden on the
Neresberg, at Zugmantel (where the masonry is visible without the mound), and at Hefte'rich on the
Feldberg, with an advanced work opposite; at Langeberg, at the Saalburg near Homburg, and Kapers-
burg. Most of them were erected beside wells, or were provided with a fountain, which had been dug.
Each was secured also with stakes, and had four gates: porta praetoria, the main gate, opposed to the
enemy; decumana, the postern gate, and then the principalis dextra et sinislra. The tumuli ( heidenküppel)
are always on the western side, where the Romans usually buried their dead*.

THE ROMAN PFAHLGRABEN.

This is also delineated red on the map. It incloses the whole of the Taunus towards the north, ex-
tends to the country round Cologne, and in many places it still exhibits a very important appearance. It
was first begun by the cautious and cunning Tiberius (according to Tacitusfl, in order to connect the forts
on the right of the Rhine, and guard against the sudden attacks of the irritated tribes of Germania Magna.
This astonishing Roman work, erected by means of the compulsory services of the surrounding inha-
bitants, consisted of a mound thrown up to the height of from ten to fifteen feet, afterwards secured by
stakes and hedges, and secured also by masonry at the main points of access and military roads, in order
to defend the Roman summer and winter camps, first against the Sigambri, Cherusci, Teucteri, Usipii,

Suevi, and Catti ; and afterwards against the Allemanni, with whom treaties on the subject were even

* The learned antiquary Count von Erbach restored at Culbach such a castellum from its ruins.

1- Ann. L. i. C. 50. !‘ Limitemque a Tiberio coeptum.”

EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 175

concluded. It was erected within the territories of the subju gated Germans, who belonged to the slavish
Roman Confederation of the Rhine, When the line of defence, however, rendered this necessary, the
Pfahlgraben ran occasionally into the territories of‘the’neighbouring states not in the Confederation; and
the ground on which it was erected was forcibly seized, with or without compensation; a circumstance
that gave rise to many wars. This wall ran over hills and through vallies, meadow and arableland, wastes
and morasses, dividing forests and villages. Schöpflin, in his Alsutia Illustrata, says of it: “ Opus mag-
“ nitudine et majestate Romana dignum.” This limes, or frontier mound, was begun probably in the vi-
cinity of Mentz, and at Wiesbaden", at the Taungebirge or Zaun-gebirgef, the highest summits and ring-
walls of which were inclosed at the same time with peculiar ability, warlike skill, and local knowledge, to
drive the Germans from their recesses, and keep them at a distance from the Rhine. At proper places in
the rear of it, it was provided with forts, mostly distant several leagues from each other. There are traces
of double and even triple lines in several important places; as, for instance, at Neuwied, Embs, and Hom—
burg. It ran behind Neuwied, through the territories of Berg, as far as Wyck de Duurstede on the Lower
Rhine, where Claudius Civilis caused it to be demolished. The plan was probably formed by Drusus; but
this work ought not to be confounded, as has been done, with the Fossa Drusz'ana (SUET. in Claudio, C. 1.),
between the Rhine, the Maese, and the Yssel; nor yet with the causeway which Paulinus Pompeius
(TACITUS Ann. L. xiii. C. 53.) renewed on the Lower Rhine, to occupy his army with useful labours, in
the Roman manner. This vallum Romanum, which the Catti, under the Emperor Claudius, frequently as-
sailed, was abandoned, and the forces employed in its defence conveyed to the left bank of the Rhine.
The Romans allowed the Germans to remain unmolested, and conducted themselves towards them rather
defensively than otherwise, down to the time of the mild and peaceful Nervai ; but Trajan, who was am-
bitious of distinction, and Hadrian, who was ambitious-of conquests, and who traversed the immense
empire of Rome mostly on foot and with uncovered head, again fortified the wall, provided it with stakes
throughout its whole extent, and extended it towards the east. The same thing was done by Septimius
Severus and Probus, Julian and Valentinian; and the latter inclosed in this manner all the decumates agrz'

as far as the Danube. The dikes of the surrounding districts have frequently been confounded with the

\

"; A lateral branch of this line of defence is said to have stretched down in a crooked direction towards the Rhine, on
account of the Mattiacian baths; and the Iffahlhcclce (called also Poklheclce and Kohlhcckc) at Dozheim, near Wiesbaden,
where ancient tumuli are also found, seems to confirm this account.

+ The Taunus mountains: Zaun, in German, means hedge.—Trans.

j; At which time Cornelius Tacitus, the eulogist, and perhaps advocate of the Germans, held an important oflice in

Belgic Gaul and Lower Germany: procumtor Galliac, Belgicac ct Germam'cae Sccundac.

176 ‘ APPENDIX.

mound of the Romans, which is of quite a different construction and appearance. According to more
recent investigations, the Roman Pfahlgraben (as may be seen in the map) ran, and still runs, from the
Lower Rhine, behind the Siebenbergen, to Rheinbreitbach, over Hammerstein and the Wied, to Rengs-
dorf (where it has a threefold appearance) ; over the heights at Neuwied and Rengsdorf ; then along the
old military road and the castellum at Alteck, behind the Renneberg, to Greuzhausen, Hör, and Katten-
bach; then along the Heath to the silver-forge ofEmbs (where a double wall is visible), and proceeding in
a crooked line through the mountains to the wood of Montabaur, called Lippersberg; from thence towards
Oberilbert, Welschneudorf, and Kemmenau, running for leagues through the Hochwald to its point,
passing First; then, assuming a wonderful appearance, like a ladder reaching to heaven, it winds up the
mountain-gorge behind Bad-Embs (which still bears the appellation of the Pfahlsgraben), passing close
by what was formerly the Orange-Nassau bathing-house, where it surrounded the medicinal springs of
Embs, for the security of the Romans, who delighted in baths. Here, in the vicinity of the small Feldberg,
in the Upper Taunus, this limes, or frontier dike, on account of the importance of the position, and the
dread of the Sigambri, was constructed in the strongest manner, and from its situation, it commanded at
once the whole range of the mountain in a crooked'direction. At Embs, the Pfahlrain, crossing the Lahn,
proceeds by the Spiess (formerly the station of 'a Roman guard), through the mountain vale of Braune-
bach, over the height of the wood of the commune of Oberlalmstein, where it forms nearly a semicircle;
above Becheln, Schweighausen, Dornliolzhausen, Marienfels, running close by the village of Pohl; by
Tiefenbach, Laufenselden, Holzhausen on the Heath (where the castellum in the dark wood at the Hassel-
berg still shews the whole extent of it, with the ditch), and over the open country, to Kemel: this last-
mentioned place possesses a fruitful field still called the Pohl-acker. Continuing its course over fields,
where all trace of it sometimes disappears, and'where it is sornetimes discernible as a green path, it runs
in a crooked direction behind Hohenstein, over the rivulet Aar or Arde, and then, between Adolphseck
and Langenschwalbach, ascends the Bornerberg, where it assumes an important appearance; running
through the wooded height of Breithardt, between Georgenthal and Wingsbach, Orle and Oberlibbach,
through the Libbacher Haide, or Pohlhaide ; then crossing the flat height the Zugmantel at Eschenhahn,
it runs between Lenzhahn and Dasbach, over the fields behind Heftrich, through the elevated wood
covered with tumuli: it next runs over the Todtenberg to Waldkriftel; from thence it turns to the right
along the Emsbach at Ober-ems and the Pohlborn} At this place, where there is a noble view, it passes
the Glaskopf am Hag and the hinder Stauffenberg, and ascending near the Eiserner Schlag at Riebhain,
it runs up the Riebhain and the Hinter-strasse, or Hunnen-straSSe, close to Lutgesfeltlberg; when, de-

scending, it crosses the Möpswiese, inclosing the small oblong quadrangular piece of ground of the

EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 177

Heidenkirch, as it is called. Passing along the declivity of the great Feldberg over the Soderwiese, near
the Kolbenberg and the Steinritsche, by the. Klinge, behind Oberhain, it runs over the Langeberg (where
the ring-wall stones near that spot were used in it, and where the old fosse formed the boundary between
Usingen and the High Mark), and through the Schieferhecke, the Saalburg, and its Eiserner Schlag (Porta
Ferrea ), where there are monuments of a Roman summer camp, approaching the convent of Thron, and
the Kapersburg at Ziegenberg. From thence it proceeds to the watch-tower of Butzbach and the village
of Pohl gon*. It then proceeds along the foot of the Vogelberg, through the Solms territories, by Hungen,
Griiningen, and Arnsburg (Castrum Aquila, perhaps the retirement assigned to Segestes, in Provincia
Vetere or Vetera, and consequently in the Wetterau—see TACITUS Amz. L. i. C. 58.)‚—to the county of
Nidda, Utph, and Wachtersbach on the Kinzig, over Orb, and through the wood of Michelbach, to the
Dammsfeld, on the right bank of the Maine; then crossing to Obern-burg and Trennfurth ( Trqjam’ Vadum ),
where castella formerly stood; approaching Meltenbach, passing through Amorbach and Wallthuren, and
then behind the Otenwald to J axthausen, Pfahlbach, and Oeringen, where the country people call it
the Pfalzldb'bel (döbel in the dialect of that country signifying a ditch); then proceeding by Hall in Swabia,
and, according to recent discoveries, through the district of Ellwangen, by Aalen, in the villages of Hütt-
lingen, Weiltingen, Dalhingen, and Pfahlheim, near the Teufelsberg, which has a number of tumuli,
and the village of Buch, to Dünkelspühl and Pförring on the Danube, in which region Probus caused it
to be enlarged and strengthened with masonry; whence it is there still called the Pfahlmauer and Döbels—
mauer, which, by a mistake, adopted even by the learned Hanselmann, has been supposed to mean
Teqfelsmauer (the Devil’s wall). EUTROPIUS (L. viii. C. 2. urbes trans Rhenum in Germania reparavit ), and
VOPISCUS ( in Probo, C. 13. urbes Romanas et castra in solo barbarico posuit et illic milites collocavit), speak
of Roman towns and camps, founded and repaired by Trajan and Probus, in Germany. Biberna or Hi-
berna (Niederbiber), discovered ten years ago at Neuwied, Artaunum (Marienfels-or Oberursel), Mattiacum
(Wiesbaden), Hedernum or Hadrz'anum (Hedernheim), Lupodunum (Ladenburg), Budorz's (perhaps Bruchsal),
and Aurelia Aquensis (Baden, where Caracalla founded baths), were certainly of the number of these towns
and camps. SPAR'I‘IANUS (in Hadrz'ano, C. 12.), among the deeds of Hadrian, mentions the fortified frontier

wall which separated the Romans and their German vassals from the independent Germans, and cha-

* It is much to be wished that the remaining part of the Pfahlgraben on the Lower Rhine, as well as in Hesse, Fran-
conia, and Swabia, were also investigated by the friends of antiquity in those parts of the country;.and that the traces of
the forts, or castella, in their neighbourhood, were accurately laid down. By connecting the frontier wall of the Lower Rhine,
the Taunus, the Wetterau, Otenwald, and Swabia, a light will be thrown on many things, and a correct map of the whole

might be drawn up.

AA

, ‚_.‚4 -..m.rmm4“

178 , APPENDIX.

racterizes it by the words, Stipitz'bus magm's, in madam muralis sepz's, fundatz's jactz's atque connexis. This
long Pfahlgraben, which surrounded the fairest and best part* of Germany, and which first received its
cultivation from the hereditary enemies of the Germans, shews how formidable the Germanic tribes were
to the Romans. In an extent of nearly two hundred leagues, the Romans were continually obliged to
fortify and secure themselves, following various bendings and directions. This immense work long and
often withstood the attacks of the Germans, though they often also succeeded in breaking through it;
but it was at last destroyed by the Allemanni and Franks.

BURGS.

There are burgs along the Upper Taunus, at Friedberg, Kransberg, Holzhausen, Homburg, Kron-
berg, Falkenstein, Königstein, Reifenberg, Hattstein, Eppenstein, and Sonnenberg. On the right bank
of the Maine, there are burgs at Höchst and Flörsheim ; and on the left, at Kelsterbach, Hasslach, and
Rüsselsheim, though mostly destroyed. In the upper part of the Rheingau, there are F rauenstein, Schar-
fenstein, Volrats (Fulrades), Ehrenfels, and four burgs at Rüdesheim. There are ruins of burgs at
Schierstein, Elfeld, and Hattenheim; and dOWn to the Lahn, on-both sides of the Rhine, we find Klopp,
Vautsberg, Rheinstein or Reichenstein, Falkenburg, Soneck or Saneck, Heimburg,'Fürsteneck, and
Nollingen or Nolicht, below the Devil’s Ladder at Lorch. Behind the Rhine, on the Wisper, there are
the Kammerberg, Rheinberg, and the Sauerburg, with Heppenheft in the Sauerthal. Descending the
Rhine again, there are Fürstenberg, Sareck, Staleck, Stalberg, Gutenfels, and the Pfalz; Schönberg,
Rineck or Rheineck, Neukatzenelnbogen or the Katze, Rheinfels or Rinfels, and Thurmberg or the
Mouse, and Reichenberg behind it; Liebenstein, and Sterrenberg or the Brothers; Liebeneck, still in-
habited, and the Marxburg; with Philippsburg and Rheinberg, Stolzenfels and Lahneck, Ehrenbreit-
stein or Herrmannstein, Sayn and Stein, Hammerstein, Rheineck, Rolandseck, and Godesberg. Among
the Siebenbergen are, Drachenfels, Wolkenburg, and L'owenburg. On the Lahn, and in the interior
of Nassau, there are the burgs of Nassau and Stein, Langenau, Arnstein (Klosterburg), Lauremburg,
Kranberg, Schaumburg, Hollenfels, Balduinstein, Aardeck, Dietz, and Runkel ; Walrabenstein, Idstein
(Etechenstein), and the burg on the Rink at Libborn; Geroldstein, Greife‘nstein, Katzenelnbogen,
Burgschwalbach, Hohenstein, and Adolphseck. The burgs on the Rhine have been already described

in their proper places.

* The country lying behind the Taunus and its Pfahlgraben is, generally speaking, by no means so beautiful and

fertile, as the milder region to the south of it.

THE END.

 

Printed by L. Harrison, 373, Strand.

 

 

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