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June, 1901. ‘ [Continuech 1"MURRAY’S FOREIGN ‘HANDBOOKS—(continucd). s SOUTHERN EUROPE—continued. HANDBOOK ROME AND ITS EN VIRONS. An entirely New Edition. Be-arranged, brought thoroughly up ti) date, including a. short History of home and Sketch of the Papal Power by NORWOOD YOUNG. With Articles on ‘ ARCHITECTURE by R. PRENR SPIERs, SCULPTURE by A. S. MURRAY, LL..,D Keeper of the Greek and Roman Antiquities at the British Museu111, and PAINTING by Mrs. ADY. With 94 Maps and Plans. 108. HANDBOOK—SOUTH ITALY, Part I. . NAPLES POMPEII, SORRENTO, CAPRI, AMALFI, PESTUM, TARANTO, BARI, BRINDISI, &c. With 10 Maps and Plui1s.Gs . , HANDBOOK—SOUTH ITALY, Part II. . SICILY, PALERMO, SYRACUSE, 821:. With 9-ans and Plans. 63.._ HANDBOOK ~GREECE, THE IONIAN ISLANDS, THE ISLANDS OF THE ZEGEAN SEA, ALBANIA, IRESSALY, AND MACEDONIA. With33Ma.§s R116. Plans. 203. THE MEDITERRANEAN. HANDBOOK— MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS, THE COASTS OF AFRICA, SPAIN, ITALY, DALMATTA, GREECE, ASIA‘MINOR, COR$ICA, 511111111111, SIOILY, MALTA, T HE BALEARIC ISLANDS, CRETE, RHODES, CYPRUS, Ate. In 2 Parts. Edited by Col. Sir R. LAMBERT PLAYFAIR, K. 0. MG. late H. B. M Consul-Gemini £01 Algeria and Tunis. With 81 Maps and P111118. 218. HANDBOOK~ALGERIA AND TUNIS, ALGIERS, CONSTANTINE, ORAN, THE ATLAS RANGE, am. By Col. Sir R. LAMBERT PLAYFA-IR, K'. C. M. G.,l11te H. B. NI. Consul~GeneIal for Algeria. and Tunis.Witl1 18 Maps ‘and P131111. 10331611. THE EAST. HANDBOOK—CONSTANTINOPLE, BROSA, AND THE TROAD. Edited by General Sir CHARLES WILSON, R. E., K. C. B. With 12 Maps and Plans. 7.1.611. HANDBOOK—EGYPT THE NILE, THROUGH EGYPT, N LBIA ALEX- ANDRIA, CAIRO, T HE PYRAMIDS, THEBES, THE SUEZ CANAL, PENINSULA 0F SINAI, 'I‘I‘IE CASES, IIIE FAYYuM, 61c. 43 Maps and Plans. 15s. HANDBOOK—ASIA MINOR, TRANSCAUCASIA, PERSIA, &c. An entirely . New Work. Edited by Major-General Sir CHARLES WILSON. B. E., K. C. B. With assistance from Colonel CHERMSIDE, R .E., C. B. ., Mr. D. G. HOGARTH, ProstSI-Ol‘ W. RAMSA‘Y, Colonel EVERETT, C. M..,G Liennnant-Colonel HARRY COOPER, Mr. DEVEY, and others. With 23 ans.188. HANDBOOK—HOLY LAND, SYRIA, PALESTINE, MOAB, 810. With 29 Maps and Plans. 188. J . , .. THE SOUTH. HANDBOOK—~NEW' ZEALAND,‘AUCK'LAND, WELLINGTON, THE 'I'IO'I‘ LAKES DISTRICT. WANGANUI, CHRIST CHURCH, DUNEDIN, 'I HE W 1: ST COAST ROAD, 'IHE COLD LAKES, SOUNDS, (To. By 1". ..W PENNEEA’IHER, LL. 1). With 18 Maps and Plums. 7s. 6d. COMPANION TO THE EANDBOOKS.. HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL: TALK—ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. Set up in paiallol columun. 161110. 38. 6d. New Edition, tliOiougiily modernised, for Tim elleis and Cyclists, and p1 inted on specIRlly tliiu papei. EDWARD STANFORD, I2, 13, & 14, LONG ACRE, “7.0. June,1901. % éfiééfi a a § § 2 E g 131:) 113:1“ GA g mm: 4% é fiéfiéfig and to the General Library University of California, Berkelc y The Gift of Beatrix Farr Z/ /- / A HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS IN HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 1N HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. TWENTY- FIRST EDITION. REVISED ON THE SPOT. Wit}; mags anh glam. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS: GALIGNANI AND 00.; AND BOYVEAU. LEIPZIG: BROCKHAUS. 1889. The Right of ’I‘ranxlatirm is reserved, THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINEh OF THE FOLLOWING BOOKSELLERS. AXX-LA- CHAPELLE AMSTERDAM ANTWERP BADEN-BADEN BERLIN GRATZ THE HAGUE HAMBURG ELLE BERNE DOIRE IONSTANCE GENEVA LAUSANNE LUCERNE BOLOGNA F LORENC E PALERMO AHIENS ANGERS AVIGNON AVRANCHES BOBDEAUX BOULOGNE CAEN CALAIS CANNES CEERBOURG DIEPPE DINANT DOUAI emonm nuns GIKRALTA R LISBON 81'. PETERSBURG MOSCOW . o . } Belgium, Holland, and Germany. ' EEIDELEERC MAYER LEIPZIG . MULLER.—ROBBERS. 3MANNm-zm . MERTENS. iMETz . . MARX. . MUNICH . ASHER.—MITSCHER AND Rés- ‘ NURNBERG . TELL. PESTK . . . KIESSLING. . PRAGUE . A. BIELEFELD. ROTTERDAM DU MONT-SCHAUEEEC. STRASSBURG a 0 Malta. CRITIEN. —-WATSON.- —CALLEJA . BURDACH.—PIERSOX. j STUTTGART . Jfi’GEL. TRIESTE LEUBCHNER AND LUBENSKY. VIENNA NIJHOFF. “TESBADEN . “LUKE SCENE. Switzerland. GEORG.—ANBERGER. ' NEUCHATEL SCHMIDT, FRANCKE AND (‘0.—- [ SCBAFFHAUSEN JENT AND REINERT. E SOLEURE . CEUEENMANN. . ST. GALLEN . MECK. ZURICH -. SANDoz.—H. mono, - .. .. 7, _,- ROUSSY. CANE?“ ' ‘: GEBHARDT. Ahcr‘hfi'v‘..." .r‘? Italy. ZANICHELLI. i PARMA . LOESCHER. PISA . . GRONDONA.-—ANTOINE BEUF. PERUGIA . MAZZAJOLI. ROME . . BARON. 1 NEGRE’I‘TI. . SIENA . . SACCHL—IIOEPLI. . TURIN . . VINCENZI AND ROSSI. nonun—Eummmm. VENICE . PEDONE. ; VERONA . France. CARON. 3. LILLE . BARASSE. LYONS . CLEMENT ST. JUST. . MARSEILLES. ANFRAY. ' NANTES . CHAUMAS.—MULLER.— SAU- ‘NICE . . VAT.—FERET. I ORLEANS . MERRIDEW. PARIS . . BOISARD. -- LECOST. — (‘LE- PAU . RISSE. ‘ RHEIMS . RIGAUX CAUX. RoUEN . nonAUDr. ST. ETIENNE . LECOUEELET. ST. MALo . MARAIS. ST. QUENTIN COSTE. TOULON . JACQUART.—LEMALE. TOULOL’SE . VELLOT ET COMP. TOURS . BOURDIGNON.—FOCCHER. TROYES . Spain and Portugal. . Moan. BROCKHAUS.—TWIETMEYF. k BENDm—LOEELER. ALCAN. ACKERMANN.— KAISER. SCHRAG.-—ZEISER. HARTLEBEN.—-RATII. METZLER.—NEFF. SCHIMPFF. GEROLD.—BRAUMULLEX. KREI'DEL. GERSTE R. . HURTER. JENT. HUBER. ALBERT MULLER. — CXSAP. SCHMIDT. -— MEYER AND ZELLER. Z ANGH IERI. NISTRI.—JOS. \‘ANNUCCHI. . \‘INCENZ.—BARTF.LLI . SPITHOVER.— PIALE.—-MON- ALDINI.—-LOESCHER. ONORATO PORRI. MAGGI. —- L. BEUF.— BOCCA FRENEs.—LOESCHER. ONGANIA.—MEINERS. MfiNSTER.—MEINERS. EECHIN. ATNE.—SCHEURINC.—~MERA. CAMOIN EKERES.—MEUNIER. PETIPAS.—POIRIER LEGROS. BARBERY.—GALICNANI. GATINEAU.—PESTY. GALIGNANI.-—BOYVEAU. LAFON. BRISSART BINE’I‘.—GEOFFROY LEBRUMENT.—HAULARD. DELARUE. HUE. DOLOY. MONGE ET \‘ILLAMI'S. GIMET ET COTELI.E. GEORGET. l.AT.O\‘.—DL'FEY ROBERT. DURAN.-—FUENTES Y (‘APDE- VILLE. GARCIA TABOADELA. CAMOIN. BENNETT. SAMSON 8: WALLIN.-—FRITZ. STATIONERY DEPOT. MADRID . LE‘VTAS. MALAGA . Russia, Sweden, Denmark, and Norway. WATKINS.—WOLFF. ODESSA . GAU'IIER. — DEUBNER. — CHRISTIANIA LANG. STOCKHOLM . Ionian Islands. COR PU . Greece. ATE ENS—KARL WILBEBG. J. W. TAYLOR. Alexandria and 0a iro. Y Constantinople. WICK AND WEISS. . Pennsson. . £8 3" CALCUTTA—THACKEE. SPINK, ‘& co. C BOMBAY—TRACKER & 00., LIMITED. ”flaw-DEW fig ,\ ; \ [5] i D H lé M .8 n; r 9 >5 8 :3 LANDSCAPE ARCH. LIBRAhY PREFACE. THE principle upon which the Handbooks are constructed is that of obtaining information on the spot by careful research and personal observation. The writer has endeavoured to confine himself to matter-0f- fact descriptions of what ought to be seen at each place, and is calculated to interest an intelligent English traveller. That such a work can be faultless is impossible. The more progress of time and march of improvements necessarily introduce errors. The author has taken pains to correct these by careful and continual revision ; the effect of which may be seen by comparing every new edition with those preceding it. He throws himself on the indulgence of his readers, to excuse inaccuracies ; and he most particularly requests all who make use of it to favour him by transmitting, through his publisher, a notice of any mistakes or omissions which they may discover. He begs to express his acknowledgments to numerous friends who have favoured him with notes and corrections. CAUTION TO INNKEEPERS AND cranes—The Editor of the Handbooks has learned from various quarters that persons have been known to extort money from innkeepers, tradcspcople, artists, and others, on the Continent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable notices of them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers. The Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recommendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by any such means, and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who. put confidence in such premises, may rest assured that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their object. "758 [6] LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS. Rotterdam. . Plan of the Hague Leiden Haarlem . Amsterdam and the Sea Canal. R1 JkS Museum (Plan of) Utrecht Antwerp . . . Bruges . . . Ghent . . . Tournai . . Brussels . . . Malinos . Louvain Liege . . Field of \Vatelloo Ardennes. Map of Holland and Belgium . to face to face . to face to face o ,3 111 129 137 151 155 181 185 199 219 227 at end of the vol [fl CONTENTS INTRODUCTION. PAGE INFORMATION which may be of use before leaving England . . [9] PAGE (I. Maxims and Hints for Tra— Steamboats from England. [16] veiling . . . . . [9 Igz. Landing on the Continent; 1). Language . . [12] Custom— houses; Commis- c. Money;DCilcu1a1 Notes . [12] sionnaires . . . . . [17] d. Passpmts . . . . . [13] 5. British Custom-house; Trans- 0. Couriers . . . . . . [13] missionof BaggageorGoods f. Expenses of ’l'rav elling- , from the Continent to Eng— Economy; Requisites fo1 land . . . [17] Travelling;Luggage;Dress [14] k. Inns and Innlieepeis . . [18] SKELETON TOURS . . . . . . . . . [19] MONEY TABIE . . . . . [21] ABBREVIATIONS, &c.,nsed1n the Handbook . . . . [22] SECTION I.—HOLLAND. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION . . . . . . . 3* Names of places are printed in black only in the Routes under which they are described. ROUTE PAGE ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Rotterdam, by 13. Utrecht to Kampen,by Zwolle 80 Flushing . 16 14. Arnhem to Leeuwarden, by 2. London to Rotte1dam, by Zutphen and Zwolle . . 81 Harwich 01 the Thinns . 25 15. Harlingen to Nieuweschan, 3. London to Amsterdam, by by Groningen . 83 Delft, the Hague, Leiden, 16. Rotterdam 10‘ enlo, by Breda. and Haarlem . . 26 and Eindhoven . . 86 4. Haarlem to Alkmaar. . 64 1 17. Dordrecht to Arnhem or 5. Amsterdam to the Helder, by l Nymegen . 88 Zaandam and Alkmaar . 65 18. Flushing to Nymegen, by 6. Amsterdam to Enkhuizen, by Breda. and Hertogenbosch. 9O Zaandam and Room . . 70 19. Maastricht to Arnhem, by 7. Amsterdam to Essen, by Roermond . 91 Zutphen and Winterswyk . 71 20. Utrecht to Liege, by Achel. 94 8. Amsterdam to Utrecht, by 21. Maashicht to Liege, by Hilversum . 73 Eysdcn . 95 9. Amsterdam to Emme1ieh, by 22. Louvain to Aix-la- Chapelle, Utrecht and Arnhem . . 73 by Manstrieht . . 96 10. Amsterdam to the Hague or 23. Breda to Cologne, by Boxtel. Rotterdam, by Gouda . . 78 and Wesel . 96 11. Zevenaar to Winterswyk . 80 24. A1 nhem to Cologne, by Cleve 12. Utrecht to Leiden . . . 80 andG och . . . . . 97 181 Contents. SECTION IL—BELGIUM. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION ROUTE PAGE 31. London to Antwerp, by the 109 Schelde . . 32. Bruges, and Ghent. London to Brussels, by Calais, Lille, Tournai, Enghien, and Hal. . Tournai to Ghent, by Courtrai Courtrai to Bru:sels, by Oudenarde Courtrui to Hazeb1011ek,by Ypres . 3 . Courtrai to Enghien. 38. Dunkirk to Ghent . . . 39. Ghent to Mons, by Blnten . 40. Flushing to Malines, by 33. 34. 35. 36. Ter ueuzen . Ostend to Lille. by Ypres Bruges to Courtmi Louvain to Ghent, by Malines and Termonde 41. 42. 43. 44. 1110n110 . Antwerp to Glent, by St. Nicolas . . Ant11erp to Tilburg, by Hérenthals 111111 Turnhout. Antwerp to Brussels, by Malines . Antwerp to Rotteulmn by 111111, returning by Steamer Brussels to t‘Namur, by Nivelles and Charleroi Brussels to Eeeloo, by Ter- monde . Binges to Ghent, by Eeeloe Paris to Liége, by Namur and Huy . . . . . . . Brussels to Cologne, by Tirle- mont and Verviers . 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. Ant111'e1p to Ghent, by Ter- 1 London to Bru~sels, by Ostentl, 126 181) 188 189 190 191 . 192 . 195 196 \ 204 PAGE . . . . . 98 ROUTE PAGE 54. Antwerp to Chmleroi, by Villers and Ligny . 207 55. Ant11erp to Maestrieht, by Aerschot. . 209 56. Brussels to Palis, by Valen- ciennes and Douai . . . 21 57. Paris to Brussels, by Terguier and Mons . . . . 5S. Mons to Ottignies . 2.14 59. Mons to Ant11erp, by Alost. 215 60. Ghent to Charleroi 216 61. Chmleroi to Gi1et, by \ileux . . . . 216 62. Brussels to Waterloo. . 217 63. Charlemi to Mons . 223 64. Brussels to Luxemburg, by Ottignies, Namur, and Arlen 223 65. Liege to Marloie, by the Vale of the Ourthe: The Ardennes . . . 227 66. Namur to Givet, by Dinant. 230 67. Nmnnl to Paris, by Leon and Soissons . . 233 68. Liege to Luxemburg, by Spa . . . 234 69. Brussels to Chimay 239 70. Namur to Tirlemont 240 71. '1‘i1101n011t to Tongres, by St. Trond . 240 72. Gemy to Arlen, by Kent‘- falize, Bastogne, Bertiix and Bouillon . 241 73. Landon to Ciney, b1 1Iuv . 243 74. Brussels to Giv,et by Otti- guies and Chatelineau . . 243 75. Chatelineau to Tubize . 244 ’76. Liege to \ 11"1ie1s, by Battice 244 77. Ant11"e1p to Diiss1l1101t', by 11011111101111.245 78. Menin to St.A1u11n1l . .246 M INTRODUCTION CONTAINING INFORMATION WHICH MAY BE OF USE BEFORE LEAVING ENGLAND. a. Illumi'ms and Hints for Travelling—b. Language—c. Money; Cir- cular Notes.—d. Passports—e. Couriers—f. Expenses of Travelling; Economy. Requisites for Travelling; Luggage, Dress, (ta—g. Steam- boats from England—h. Landing on the Continent; Custom-houses; Commissionaires.—i. British Custom-7202136,- Transmission (f Baggage or Goods from the Continent to England—k, Inns and Innkeepers.— l. A few Skeleton Tours—m. Money Table. a. MAxms AND HINTS FOR TRAVELLING. “ TRAVEL in the younger sort is a part of education ; in the elder, a part of experience. He that travelleth into a country before he hath some en- trance into the language, goeth to school and not to travel. If you will have a young man to put his travel into a little room, and in a short time to gather much, this you must do: first, as was said, he must have some entrance into the language before he goeth; then he must have such a servant 0r tutor as knoweth the country, as was likewise said: let him carry with him also some card or book describing the country where he travelleth, which will be a good key to his inquiry; let him keep also a diary; let him sequester himself from the company of his countrymen, and diet in such places where there is good company of the nation where he travelleth. \Vhen a traveller returneth home, let‘him not leave the countries where he hath travelled altogether behind him; but maintain a correspondence by letters with those of his acquaintance which are of most worth: and let his travel appear rather in his dis- course than in his apparel or gesture; and in his discourse let him be rather advised in his answers than forward to tell stories: and let it appear that he doth not change his country manners for those of foreign parts, but only prick in some flowers of that he hath learned abroad into the customs of his own country.”_—L0RD BACON. Essays, XIX. “ Ours is a nation of travellers; and no wonder, when the elements air, water, fire, attend at our bidding, to transport us from shore to shore ; When the ship rushes into the deep, her track the foam as of some mighty torrent, and, in three hours or less, we stand gazing and gazed at among a [10] i Maxims and Hints for Travellers. , ‘\ foreign people. None want an excuse. If rich, they go to enjoy; if poor, to retrench; if sick, to recover; if studious, to learn; if learned, to relax from their studies. But whatever they may say, whatever they may believe, they go for the most part on the same errand; nor will those who reflect think that errand an idle one. “ All is new and strange. \Ve surrender ourselves, and feel once again as children. Like them, we enjoy eager] '; like them, when we fret, we fret only for the moment: and here the resemblance is very remarkable; for if a journey has its pains as well as its pleasures (and there is nothing unmixed in the world), the pains are no sooner over than they are for- gotten, while the pleasures live long in the memory. “ In travelling, we multiply events, and innocently. \Ve set out, as it were, on our adventures; and many are those that occur to 11s, morning, noon, and night. The day we come to a place which we have long heard and read of,—and in Italy we do so continually,—it is an era in our lives; and from that moment the very name calls up a picture. How delightfully, too, does the knowledge flow in upon us, and how fast ! Would he who sat in a corner of his library, poring over his books and maps, learn more or so much in the time, as he who, with his eyes and his heart open, is receiving impressions all day long from the things them- selves? How accurately do they arrange themselves in our memory,— towns, rivers, mountains; and in what living colours do we recall the dresses, manners, and customs of the people! “ Like a river that gathers, that refines as it runs,—like a spring that takes its course through some rich vein of mineral,—we improve, and im— perceptibly—nor in the head only, but in the heart. Our prejudices leave us one by one. Seas and mountains are no longer our boundaries; we learn to love, and esteem, and admire beyond them. Our benevolence extends itself with our knowledge. And must we not return better citizens than we went? For the more we become acquainted with the in— stitutions of other countries, the more highly must we value our own.”— Samuel Rogers. “ Even of those who wish to profit by travelling there are many who do not sufficiently consider that, to see and hear with understanding, they should come provided with some other stores besides a purse and a pass- port; and that one who is unacquainted with the language, history, and geography of the country through which he is passing, is as incapable of gaining information from intercourse with foreigners as if he were deaf or dumb. ‘ N eceSSe est facere sum plum qui queerit lucrum ;‘ or, as Johnson has well said, ‘ A man must carry knowledge with him, if he would bring home knowledge.’ ”—J. Iii—Quarterly Review. “ The enjoyment of travelling, like other pleasures, must. be purchased at some little expense; and he whose good humour can be rufiled by every petty inconvenience he may chance to encounter had unquestionably better remain at home.”—O’aptain Hamilton. ' Maxims and Hints for Travellers. [11] “ One of the greatest annoyances in travelling is continual exposure to imposition; but this may, by good management, be frequently avoided, either altogether or in part, as by bad management it may be greatly in- creased. “ My observation tells me there is no preventive against these different kinds of imposition so sure as a certain quiet composed bearing, indicative at once of self-respect, and of consideration for others.”— Walker’s Original. The reflections of Tristram Shandy on this head are not to be sur- passed :—“ Yet, notwithstanding all this, and a pistol tinder-box, which was, moreover, filched from me at Sienna, and twice that I paid five pauls for two hard eggs, once at Radicofani, and a second time at Capua,——I do not think a journey through France or Italy, provided a man keep his temper all the way, so bad a thing as some people would make you be- lieve. There must be ups and downs, or how the deuce should we get into valleys, where nature spreads so many tables of entertainment ? It is nonsense to suppose they will lend you their voitures to be shaken to pieces for nothing; and unless you pay twelve sons for greasing your wheels, how should the poor peasant get butter for his bread P We really expect too much; and for the livre or two above par for your supper and bed, at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence halfpenny. Who would embroil their philosophy for it? For Heaven’s Sake and your own pay it—pay it with both hands open !”——Steme. “ Not the least important of the requisites for a traveller is the temper in which he should undertake to perform his journey. It is a fact deeply to be regretted, that many vulgar and half-witted Englishmen think, if they leave home with money, they can command anything; that it is mean to be civil, and beneath them to feel grateful for any efforts to oblige them made by those for whose services they pay. It is a vulgar prejudice that all foreigners cheat the English, and that caution is neces— sary to guard against the constant attempts to overreach them. ’l'hat some such characters are met with cannot be denied; but those whose rapacity is thus made to characterise a class have been often created by the meanness and prejudices and thoughtless extravagance of the travellers themselves. It is a bad feeling to set out with, that you must be always on your guard. Custom has established certain charges, and any devia- tion from them is soon detected; but it too often happens that things are demanded by the traveller which are very expensive, or difiicult to procure; the charge for these is protested against as extravagant, though the injustice is entirely on the side of the grumbler. Firmness in not paying more than what is customary, unless such extraordinary trouble has been given, will always succeed; and good humour will lower a bill more readily than violence.”——Brocked0n. —— “It is particularly desirable to make the necessary arrangements with respect to luggage, passports, &c., a little beforehand, and not to be in a feverish heat and bustle at the last moment, with the chance of forgetting something of importance. Setting out at one’s ease is a good omen for the [12] Language. Money—Circular Notes; rest of the journey. With respect to luggage I recommend the greatest compactness possible, as being attended with constant and many advan- tages; and, in general, I think people are rather over—provident in taking more than they want. Avoid carrying anything contraband, for yourself or others. The necessity for concealment causes a perpetual anxiety, and has a tendency to destroy that openness of manner which is often very serviceable in getting on. Avoid also commissions.”—li'alkcr’s Original. “ Jamque ascendebat collem, qui plurimus urbi lmminet, adversasque aspectat desuper arces."-V!RG. The quickest mode of acquiring a good idea of any place is to take the earliest opportunity of ascending some tower or eminence, from which there is a commanding view, with some person who can point out the most rc- markable objects. If this is followed up by wandering about without a guide, and trusting solely to your own observation, you will be as well acquainted with the localities in a few hours as the generality of travellers would be in a week, or perhaps better, because your impressions will be stronger. I do not mean by this to supersede the employment of guides in sight-seeing, for they are very useful in saving time. b. LANGUAGE. The Emperor Charles V. used to say, that in proportion to the number of languages a man knew, he was so many more times a man. No one should think of travelling before he has made some acquaintance with the language of the country he is about to visit. This should be the first, as it is the best, preparation for a journey. It will prove as good as a doubly— filled purse t0 the traveller as two pair of eyes and of ears—for, without it, the one pair he possesses is likely to be of little use. The only other advice which will be here offered to the traveller is, that he should make up his mind beforehand what line of route he proposes to follow, and gain some acquaintance with the country before setting out, by perusing the best works descriptive of it; that he should lay in such a stock of good temper and patience as is not likely soon to be exhausted, whatever mishaps may befall him ; and that he should divest himself, as soon as possible, of his prejudices, and especially of the idea of the amazing superiority of England above all other countries, in all respects. The Handbook for Travel Talk, while not pretending to teach French, German, or Italian to those utterly ignorant of these languages, may be safely recommended as a valuable collection of words and phrases in common use required in travelling. c. MONEY—CIRCULAR NOTES. The safest, most economical, and most convenient mode of carrying large sums (over 50?.) abroad, to meet the expenses of a long journey or prolonged residence on the Continent, is in the shape of Ctrcular Notes, of 101. or 201., which may be obtained from all the chlef Banks in London. Passports. Couriers. [13] Tourists not requiring large sums of money will find English sovereigns and 5l. Bank of England notes serve all ordinary purposes. They are known and taken in almost all parts of Europe at their full value. Even if Circular Notes are used, it is advisable to take likewise a small supply of French or English gold, for places where circular notes cannot be cashed. When the stranger requires to change English gold, or any other money, into the current coin of the country in which he is travelling, it is better to enquire for some authorised Money-changer (Geld-wechsler, =Changeur de monnaies), than to change them at shops or inns, where, from ignorance or fraud, travellers are liable to be cheated. \Vaiters, and clerks of steamboats and railway oflices, are too apt to pre- sume upon the traveller’s ignorance by depreciating the value of N apoleons and Sovereigns, unless the stranger be aware of the true value, and demand specifically the full amount of change. A traveller, in changing a circular note, will of course take the money of the country, provided he intends remaining long enough in it to expend the sum taken. In changing circular notes take care that the banker does not give you notes of foreign states, as the traveller will lose upon them in paying them away. The best gold coins which travellers can carry with them, except in Germany and Portugal, are Napoleons. d. PAssronrs—Englz'sh Passports. Passports are no longer officially required in any European country except Russia and Turkey, or on leaving Portugal by sea, or on the French and German Frontier; but Englishmen are liable to be called on to produce them at times, and they are strongly advised not to travel without this important certificate of identity. For the Pedestrian, a passport is at times indispensable, if he would avoid constant annoyance from the Police in remote places. It may be added that the practical value of the document in such cases would be much increased by its being translated into the principal foreign languages. Messrs. Stanford, Charing Cross; Lee and Carter, 440, \Vest Strand; Adams, 59, Fleet Street, and other agents, will obtain passports. e. COURIERS. It is notorious that English servants taken for the first time to the Con- tinent, and ignorant of every language but their own, are Worse than use- less—they are an encumbrance. The traveller who requires a servant at any rate had better take a foreign one ; but he who speaks the language of the Continent himself, and will submit to the details of the coinage and railway time-tables, may save himself much expense by dispensing with a servant altogether. Thus the knowledge of language becomes a source of eco- nomy. A courier, however, though an expensive luxury, is one which conduces much to the ease and pleasure of travelling, and few who can afford one will forego the advantage of his services. He relieves his mas- ter from much fatigue of body and perplexity of mind, sparing his temper the trials it is likely to endure from disputes with innkeepers, [14;] Expenses of Travelling, etc. booking clerks and the like. The couriers of the present day, who are enrolled in the London Association, are on the whole a well-regulated and educated class. Courier Maidservcmts are now much employed by families as well as by ladies, and they will in many respects often be found preferable to men. The usual wages of a courier while travelling are from 10l. to 12l. a month,—-—if he be engaged for less than 2 months, he will probably expect 12L; if his services be retained while his master is stationary in a place, he ought not to receive more than 61. supposing his engagement to last for 6 or 10 months. Couriers and travelling servants may he heard of in London at the O'ouriers’ Society office, 12, Bury Street, St. J ames’s, S.VV., where necessary information may be obtained. There is another society, chiefly of Italians, at 54, Davies Street, Berkeley Square. A less expensive, and sometimes very honest, domestic may be found among the Swiss, Piedmontese, and Germans, in Paris, Geneva, and other continental cities, who will be satisfied with 5l. a month wages, but caution must be exercised in hiring sue . f. EXPENSES 0F TRAVELLING; Ecoxonr.—Rnou1srrns FOR TRAVELLING; LUGGAGE, DRESS, &c. It is diilicult, if not impossible, to fix with any approach to exactness the average rate of expenses of a traveller abroad, as it depends so much on his own habits and the extent of his days’ journeys, and varies in different countries; but, unless the expenditure be very lavish, 213. to 25s. a day for each individual ought fully to cover the outlay. On a pedestrian excursion in remote situations, the expenses can hardly exceed from 83. to 105. per diem. The cost of living at foreign inns is insignificant compared with that of locomotion, and the latter will of course be‘proportionately increased when the traveller proceeds rapidly, making long days’ journeys. The above calculation will be near the mark if he travel 70 or 80 English miles a day; if he limit himself to 40 or 50, the expense will probably not exceed 208. for each person. An English gentlemen travelling with a courier, resorting to the best hotels and requiring a private sitting-room, must count upon spending 2l. a day. It is doubtful economy to resort to inferior inns. Rooms in the large hotels, not looking to the front, and on the upper floors, are let at reduced prices. The charges for bedi'Ooms diminish according to the floor, also for those who stop longer than a week. Luggage—Let all who travel abroad reduce their luggage to as small a compass as possible; let them see especially that all their [cells are good, and in working order; and let them have some clear and distinctive mark on each piece, so as to make it easily recognizable. A flat Gladstone bag, or leather case, which will fit under the seats of the railway carriages (which are lower on the Continent than in England), to contain small articles, required on a journey by night or day, will be feund a great convenience. Ewpenses of Travelling, (£0. [15] For heavy luggage, one large trunk or portmanteau is preferable to two small ones, except for carriage driving; it is more conspicuous, more con- venient at the Custom-house, and, when luggage is charged by the piece, entails a saving of money. Costume—For those who travel with a limited amount of luggage, the following hints may be found useful :— Boots form one of the most important factors in a traveller’s comfort; for ordinary use, carry one stout pair of lace-boots, one lighter pair for ordinary wear, a pair of shoes for evening, and a pair of slippers. Let all boots be of good English make, and, above all, let them be sufficiently worn previously, to be quite comfortable. Boot— trees are serviceable, but very cumbrous. Stockings and Socks—When much walking is to be done, these should be of wool (lambs-wool is very good and comfortable), the thicker the better. Cotton socks are apt to wrinkle, and blister the feet. Clothes should be as much as possible of woollen materials and flannel. In hot weather, ladies will find an alpaca dust-cloak—long enough to cover the dress—a great convenience; and a macintosh is often useful. In cold weather a good ulster, with plenty of pockets and a hood, will be found invaluable for ladies or gentlemen. Sundries—Let every traveller be provided with soap, which is not supplied at foreign hotels. An indiarubber bath, and a few rough towels, will be found a luxury. A flask of whisky or brandy should be carried, especially on mountain excursions, but only to be used on emergency. A field-glass, compass, thermometer, and pocket aneroid are all useful articles ; and every one should be provided with matches, writing materials, luggage-labels, leather straps, and note-books. Sealing-wax should not be forgotten, as it is sometimes a wise precaution to seal as well as cord One’s luggage. In some countries also a registered letter requires a seal. A spirit lamp or Etna is often of great service for boiling water, or making tea (of which a small packet should be carried). A Scotch plaid will be found very useful, especially in cold weather; when rolled up it serves as a pillow or cushion. Railway travelling—In warm weather always ascertain which is the shady side of the carriage ; it will be found advisable to sit with the back towards the engine, and to put all small parcels and bundles on the same side, to avoid the dust. - In Holland and Belgium a good buffet will, as a rule, be found at the larger stations. On a long journey, however, it is generally safer to carry provrsxons. A few simple remedies—For diarrhoea, Bell’s (338, Oxford Street) Opiate Confection. Chlorodyne (Browne’s) is a most useful remedy in this, as in many other cases, such as for fever, colic and asthma, also as a sedative and anodyne. [16] Steamboats from England. It is also necessary for the traveller to take with him some simple aperient. For insect bites—Ammonia, or Eau de Cologne. For bruises—Arnica. For scorched or chapped skim—Savory and Moore’s glycerine tablet, or glycerine and rose water. Letters—On enquiring at the Post Restante hand in your name written down. Drop all unnecessary titles, and be content with plain Mr. or Mrs, M. or Mme, and let the principal name be written boldly and distinctly. It is better, as a rule, to have letters addressed to the hotel. g. STEAMBOATS FROM ENGLAND. ACCELERATED STEAnEn To OSTEXD. From Dover to Ostend (60 m. in 3 hrs), see p. 255. GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY—Offices, 71, Lombard Street, and 37, Piccadilly Circus. (Times of starting uncertain: consult Company’s Time-tables.) From Irongate and St. Katharine’s Steam \Vharves 1—- From London to Ostend (130 m. in 12 hrs), Tues. and Fri. ,, Antwerp (184: m. in 17 hrs), Tues, Sat. ,, Hamburg (37 hrs), Tues, Thurs, Sat. ,, Boulogne, in 8 hrs, daily. BELGIAN COMPANY. From London to Antwerp, every Sunday and Wednesday. GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY COMP;\NY.—-Steam€rs from Harwich. Trains from Liverpool Street Stat. to Harwich at 7.10 pm. Steamers to ROTTERDAM daily, except Sunday (104 in. in 11 hrs). To ANTWERP daily, except Sun. (1‘22 m. in 12 hrs). NETHERLANDS STEAMBOAT COMPANY. London to Rotterdam, Brunswick \Vharf, Blackwell, Sat. and \Ved. ; from oil‘ the Tower, Thurs. Grimsby to Hamburg, Rotterdam and Antwerp, steamers ‘Wed. and Sat., in connection with Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Rly. Fares to‘Hambui-g, 11. 10s.; to Rotterdam, ll. ; to Antwerp, 15s. ZEELAND STEAMSIIIF COMPANY. 5 From Queenborough to Flushing twice daily (107 111. in 8 hrs), in connection with the London, Chatham and Dover express trains. ! *3 Berths may be secured in the steamers belonging to the General 1 Steam Navigation Company; but they should be taken some time beforehand. Landing ; Custom-houses ; Commissionnaz'res. . [17] Registration of Baggage. Travellers going direct from London to Paris, Brussels, Cologne, 850., and not requiring their baggage on the way, should register it at the station from which they start. It will then not be opened for Custom- house examination until the owner reaches the station to which it has been booked. 71. LANDING ON THE CONTINENT—CUSTOM-HOUSES—COMMISSIONNAIRES. \Vhen the steamboat reaches its destined port, the shore is usually beset by a crowd of clamorous agents from the different hotels, each vociferating the name and praises of that for which he is employed, stunning the dis- tracted stranger with their cries, and nearly scratching his face with their proffered cards. The only mode for the traveller to rescue himself from these tormentors, who often beset him a dozen at a time, is to make up his mind beforehand to what hotel he will go, and to name it at once. The Agent or Commissionnaire of the house named then takes the new arrival under his protection, extricates him from the throng, and conducts him to his quarters. Hand luggage is examined immediately on landing ;but the traveller is in no case bound to superintend the disagreeable zDoperation in person. The Commissionnaire will be only too happy to perform this service for him. Unless accompanied, hOWever, by a trusty servant, he is strongly 'advised to attend to the examination in person. If the baggage contain any contraband articles, it is advisable to declare them beforehand, and to pay the duty. A fine of 3?. or 4?. is exacted on the spot for any detected attempt at smuggling. “ Those who would travel with comfort should be particularly on their guard against rendering themselves liable to detention or penalty at the foreign Custom-houses. They should avoid taking anything which is contraband, either for themselves or for their friends; for it too often happens that travellers on the Continent are meanly solicited to take those things for their fliends who ale abroad which they daie not send by the public conveyance, thus rendering their travelling fliends liable to penalty and punishment.” 7. BRITISH CUSTOM-HOUSE—TRANSMISSION 0F BAGGAGE on Goons FROM THE COXTINENT T0 ENGLAND. In England the right of personal search exists only where the Custom- house officer has good cause to suspect that contraband goods are concealed about the person. The suspected individual may call upon a justice of the peace, or a comptroller of the Customs, to decide whether the suspicion is well founded. The luggage of passengers by steamboat going to London is now examined on board the vessels between Gravesend and London. Registered luggage arriving from Ostend, Calais, or Boulogne by the London, Chatham and Dover Rly. or the South Eastern Bly. is examined at the Charing Cross or Victoria Stations, but at Folkestone or Dover if by the night service or destined for other stations in London. Hand luggage is examined on the boat at Dover before passengers land. [Holland, 1888.] ‘7 [18] British Custom-houses. Inns. Travellers who send works of art, or other valuable property, from the Continent to London, should consign them to the care of an agent at the Custom—house in London, as such articles are frequently injured and need- less expense incurred from want of a person to take charge of them when they arrive, and to see them examined, entered, and properly repacked. The charge is the same whether the goods are so consigned or not. Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken and Co., 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, are long—established and highly trustworthy agents, and have a very large list of foreign correspondents, especially in Italy. For lists of foreign correspondents, see the Advertiser at the end of this volume. N.B.—Goods must be examined when they arrive in London, therefore packages that are locked should have the keys attached. k. INNS AND INNKEEPERS. The continued protests of English and American travellers have effected a marked improvement in the cleanliness and sanitary arrange- ments of Continental hotels. Two special grounds of complaint, hOWever, yet remain, to which the Editor feels it his duty to call attention—the poor quality or insufficient quantity of the food provided at the table d’hote; and the thinness of the partition wall, with its inevitable “ communicating” door, which scarcely divides one bedroom from another in modern hotels “ built expressly for the purpose.” Landlords would do well to remember that the traveller cares more for a substantial dinner and a quiet night’s rest, than for paint, gilding, and chandeliers. It is the custom in Continental hotels to lock the door of your room when you go out, and to deposit the key with the porter in the hall, where a large board will be seen, on which are painted the numbers of all the apartments, each furnished with a hook for the key. This system, so generally lauded at the expense of our own, is supposed to be aimed at the traveller's security; though it is obvious that so desirable a result is hardly to be obtained by publishing the fact that the owner of such and such valuable effects is not at present in his room. An intending ' thief need only seize a wrong key by accident, and he may search any given chamber at his leisure. The real truth is that the key system is not designed for the traveller’s convenience at all, but for that of the servants. It informs the chambermaid at what hour she may make the bed, and it saves the porter the trouble of sending a message upstairs-to find out whether you are at home. The custom is however, universal, except in thoroughly Anglicized hotels, and it is best to comply with it. Skeleton Tours. 7. SKELETON TOURS. [19] I.—TEN DAYS IN HOLLAND, WITH A RETURN TICKET FROM LONDON m‘é HARWICH. days. Rotterdam. . . . . . 1 Hague . . . . . . . 2 Scheveningeu and back . 1 Leiden } 1 Haarlem Amsterdam 3 Utrecht 1 Gouda 1 Rotterdam } Total. . . . . . . . 10 II.—FOtRTEEN DAYS IN BELGIUM, WITH A RETURN TICKET FROM LONDON OR DOVER TO OSTEND. days. BI-uges . 2 Ghent 2 Antwerp 3 Malines } 1 Louvain ' Brussels 3 Hal 1 Tournai Courtmi 1 Ypres } Ostend . 1 Total . . . . . . . 14 III.——EIGIIT WEEKS IN HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. Important places marked with an asterisk. days. Flushing 1 Hertogenbosch } M-iddelburg and *Veere Breda Dordrccht . . . . 1 *Antwerp *Rotterdam . . 1 *Malines } Gouda and back . 1 *Louvain ' Alkmam‘ 4 *Léan *Amstenlum } *S. Trond . *Utrcc-ht . 1 *Tongres Zwolle 1 *Maastricht . Kampen and back } ' *Liége . . Devcntor 1 Battice Zutppen } Aubel *Arnhem 1 Vervicrs *Nijmegon} Spa . ’ [20.1 III.——EIGHT WEEKS 1N HOLLAND AND BELGIUM—continued. *Houfl'alize . Bastogne . Ettelbriick . Luxemburg D If e t *Hague Scheveuingen *Leideu . . . . . . *Ham‘lem Arlon *S. Hubert } *Rochefort } *Han sur Lesse Comblain Aywaille } *Remonchamps . . Liége Chaudfontaine and back } Skeleton Tours. days. *Huy ‘ *Namur } Dinant and hue *Villeu-la-Ville *Nivelles } Waterloo *Brussels } Hal Enghien } *Soignies } D— n—b—I w O—IO—II—H—I Mons *Tournai *Yprcs . Courtrui } ‘i Oudenarde 1 = "Ghent *Bruges . . Ostcnd . n—awwt—«u—n-It-i M07762 Table. [21] m. MONEY TABLE. France. y ,4 “mm W“ “a“ =6 3- 61- Francs. Cts. Dols. Cts. Marks. Pfen. Grs. Cts. O 0 1 0 10 0 02 0 8 0 -5 0 0 2 0 20 0 04 0 16 0 0-10 0 0 3 0 31 0 06 0 25 0 0-15 0 0 4 0 41 0 08 0 33 0 0-20 0 0 5 0 52 0 10 0 42 0 0-25 0 0 6 1) 62 O 12 0 50 Is. 0'30 0 0 7 0 72 0 14 0 58 0 0-35 0 0 8 0 83 0 16 0 67 0 0-40 0 0 9 0 93 0 18 0 75 0 0-45 0 010 1 4 0 20 0 84 0 0-50 0 011 1 14 0 22 0 92 0 0-55 0 1 0 1 25 0 24 1 0 2s. 0-60 0 2 O 2 50 0 49 2 0 0 1-20 0 3 0 3 75 0 73 3 0 0 1-80 0 4 0 5 0 0 97 4 0 0 2-40 0 5 0 6 25 1 21 5 0 58. 3-0 0 6 0 7 50 1 46 6 0 0 3-60 0 7 0 8 75 1 70 7 0 0 4-20 0 8 0 10 0 1 94 8 0 0 4-80 0 9 0 11 25 2 18 9 0 0 5-40 0 10 0 12 50 2 43 10 0 10s. 60 0 11 0 13 75 2 67 11 0 0 6-60 0 12 0 15 0 2 91 12 0 0 7-20 0 13 0 16 25 3 16 13 0 0 7-80 0 14 0 17 50 3 40 14 0 0 8-40 0 15 0 18 75 3 64 15 0 15s. 9-0 016 0 20 0 3 88 16 0 0 9-60 0 17 0 21 25 4 13 17 0 0 10-20 0 18 0 22 50 4 37 18 0 0 10-80 0 19 0 23 75 4 61 19 0 0 11-40 1 0 0 25 0 4 86 20 0 1!. 12-0 2 0 0 50 0 9 71 40 0 0 24-0 3 0 0 75 0 14 57 60 0 0 36-0 4 0 0 100 0 19 42 80 0 0 48-0 5 0 0 125 0 24 28 100 0 52. 60-0 6 0 0 150 0 29 13 120 0 0 72-0 7 0 0 175 0 33 99 140 0 0 84-0 8 0 0 200 0 3 84 160 0 0 96-0 9 0 0 225 0 43 70 180 0 0 108 0 10 0 0 250 0 48 56 200 0 IOl. 120-0 20 0 0 500 0 97 11 400 0 0 240-0 30 0 0 750 0 145 67 600 0 0 360 0 40 0 0 1000 0 194 22 800 0 0 480-0 50 0 0 1250 0 242 78 1000 0 50l. i600-0 A continental mét-re, or Dutch ell, is equal to 3‘08 French ft., 3' 19 Prussian ft, 3'16 Austrian ft., and 3'28 Eng. ft. 100 métres = 307'84, 318'62. 316‘37, 01' 328'09. 1- Approximate only, the 20 mark gold piece being worth from 3d. to 4d. less than a sovereign. [22] Abbreviations, (t'c. ABBREVIATIONS. 850., USED IN THE HANDBOOK. The points of the Compass are marked simply by the letters N. S. E. W. (rt) right, (1.) left. The right bank of a river is that which lies on the right hand of a person whose back is turned towards the source, or the. quarter from which the current descends. m. =mile; Rte. =Ronte; Stat.=Ravilwuy Station. An asterisk (*) to call attention of travellers to objects of note, Inns deservmg commendation~ and the like. When miles are spoken of without any descriptive epithet, English statute miles are to be understood. Instead of designating a town by the vague words “ large" or “ small," the amount of the population, according to the latest census, 1s almost Invarmbly stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and Size of the place. '* "A HANDBOOK TRAVELLERS IN HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. SECTION I. HOLLAND, or THE NETHERLANDS. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. § 1. IlIoney.—2. Custom-hoase.—3. Travelling in IIollaml: Railroads, Dili- genccs, and Roads.—4. Travelling by IVater; Trehschuiten.~—-5. Drinking lVaten—G. Inns; Cafe’s.—7. General View of Holland.—8. Dyhes.—— 9. Canals—10. Folders; Peat.—11. Dimes—~12. Gardens and Summer- houses.—13. Dutch School of Painting,- Pz’cture Galleries in Holland.— - 14. Some Pecaliarz'ties in Dutch JlIarmers, &e.-—15. JlIusz’c; Organs.— 16. Agriculture. ROUTES. (In the Table of Contents throughout this book the names of places are printed in black type only in those Routes Where they are described.) ROUTE PAGE ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Rotterdam, by 13. Utrecht to Kampen, by Zwolle 80 Flushing. . . . . . 16 14. Arnhem to Leeuwarden, by 2. London to Rotterdam, by Zutphen and Zwolle 81 Harwich or the Thames 25 15. Harlingen to Nieuweschans, 3. London to Amsterdam, by by Groningen . . . . 83 Delft, the Hague, Leiden, 16. Rotterdam to Venlo, by Breda and Haarlem . . . . 26 and Eindhoven . . . 86 4. Haarlem to Alkmaar. . . (54 17. Dordrecht to Arnhem or 5. Amsterdam to the Helder, by Nymegen. . . . . . 88 Zaandam and Alkmaar. . 65 18. Flushing to Nymegen, by 6. Amsterdam to Enkhuizen, by Breda and Hertogenbosch . ,90 Zaandam and Hoorn . . 70 19. Maastricht to Arnhem, by 7. Amsterdam to Essen, by Roermond . . . . . 91 Zutphen and Winterswyk . 71 20. Utrecht to Liege, by Achel . 94: 8. Amsterdam to Utrecht, by 21. Maastricht to Libge, by Hilversum . . . . . 73 Eysden . . . . . . 95 . 9. Amsterdam to Emmerich, by 22. Louvain to Aix-la-Chapelle, Utrecht and Arnhem 73 by Maastricht . . . . 9G 10. Amsterdam to the Hague or 23. Brcda to Cologne, by Boxtel Rotterdam, by Gouda 78 and Wesel . . . . . 96 11: Zevenaar to Winterswyk. 80 24. Arnhem to Cologne, by Cleve 12. Utrechtto Leiden 80 and Goch . . . . . 97 § 1. MONEY. Accounts are kept in guilders and cents. The guilder, or Dutch florin, is worth, approximately, 18. 8d. English. It [Holland, 1888.] 15 is divided into 20 stuivers == 100 cents: I stuiver = 5 cents = 1 penny ’ English. 7 Gold pieces of 10 guilders, worth about 165. 8d. Cents. Stuivers. s d, Rixdollar (Rijksdaalder) = 2% guilders = 250 = 50 = 4 2 The guilder (or Dutch florin) : 100 = 20 : 1 8 Silver 2} guilder = 50 = 10 = 0 10 Coins. } guilder (called Vijfje or Quartje) = 25 = 5 = 0 5 1'5 guilder or dubbeltje = 10 = 2 : 0 2 Stuiver or 3'6 guilder = 5 = l : 0 1 ~Munt-Biljet (Mint-notes) of 10, 50, and 100 guilders. Bank-Biljet (Bank-notes) of 25, 40, GO, 100, 200, 300, 500, and 1000 guilders. Paper Money. The rate of exchange varies from 11'70 to 12 guilders for £1. The diiference between cents and centimes should be borne in mind. Cent, 9. Dutch coin, is the T50 of a guilder, or of Is. 8d. Centime, a French coin. is the 156 part of a franc, or of 10d. The cent is equal to2 centimes, and is worth - i of a penny English. The guilder is worth, approximately, 2 French francs. \ § 2. CUSTOM-Horse. The Dutch custom-house oflicers are usually civil, and by no means trouble- some in examining the baggage of persons not travelling with merchandise. It is unwise, and sometimes even dangerous, to ofl‘er a bribe in the form of money. The best methods of lightening the search are civility and a readi- ness to lay open the baggage. §3. TRAVELLING IN HOLLAND—RAILROADS, DILIGENCES, AND ROADS. ‘ ‘The English and French languages are generally understood at the best inns and by the inhabitants of the principal Dutch towns. Let the stranger be on his guard against the guides and hotel-touters who infest railway stations, steamboat wharves, &c. . Railroads—1. Hollandsche Ijzeren-spoorweg. Rotterdam to the Hague, Leiden, Haarlem, and Helder to Amsterdam. 2. cherlaudsehe Rijn-spoorweg (Dutch-Rhenish). Rotterdam vid Gouda, to Amsterdam, Arnhem, and Emmerich. Leiden to Utrecht. 3. Centraal-spoorweg. Utrecht to Zwolle and Kampen. 4. Staats-spoorwegen. Harlingeu to Groningen, Arnhem to Salzbergen, Bergen-op-Zoom to Roosendaal. Rotterdam to Eindhoven, Venlo, Maastricht, and LiEge. The. best time-table is the ‘Oflicioele Reisgids voor Nederland,’ price 25 cents with map. Val-trek = Departure; Aankomst —— Arrival. The Dutch railways are generally well managed, and the station-houses well arranged. Carriages for non-smokers are marked “ Niet-Rooken.” Vigilantes (cabs) and omnibuses ply to and from the stations. Travellers, however, must be on their guard against Dutch eabmen, who generally make an extortionate demand, and should be made to produce their tarifl‘ (tareif). The Rly. porters are not by law entitled to any gratuity. On the Dutch railways only ‘20 kilog. = 411 Eng. lbs. of luggage are free. The lines from Rotterdam to Amsterdam and Antwerp deserve the atten- ‘/ ‘2 ' ‘ ‘ §2. Custom-houser-3. Travelling. . sect. I. Holland; § 4. Travelling by WaterQéTrekschuz'te-lz. 3 tion of the engineer, from the’number of canals which they cross, and which presented considerable difliculties, overcome by ingenious expedients, such as rolling and swing bridges. The Antwerp Rly. between Rotterdam and . Roosendaal traverses four great arms of the Maas and Rhine by bridges of 2 or’3 miles in total length, superseding three very inconvenient ferries. A large part of the lines is founded on piles, often under water, and the roadway is laid on faggots bound together by stakes and wattles. Diligences.—On such of the great roads as have no competing railroad, diligences run several times a-day. They are very precise in the time of starting. They belong to private individuals or companies licensed by Govern- ment, and travel at the rate of about 6 miles an hour. If more persons apply for places than can be accommodated in the coach, an additional carriage, or‘ “by-chaise,” is prepared, by which the passenger may proceed at the same rate of fare as by the main diligence. The Dutch league (“ uren gaans,” or the distance a man will walk in an hour) is 5555 metres : 33 English miles. Roads—The high roads connecting the principal towns and villages of N. and S. Holland are generally paved with bricks, and are excellent. The crOSs roads consist merely of loose sand, and are wretchedly bad, and in wet weather barely passable. There are no stones in a large part of Holland”; but the want of stones is supplied by a small and tough kind of bricks called klinkers, which, after the foundation of the road is levelled, are placed edgewise close together, and the interstices filled with sand, so as to form a hard, smooth, and level highway, very pleasant to travel over. The average cost of making such a road is about 17,000 guild, more than 1400l., per English mile. As all heavy goods are conveyed by water or rail, the wear and tear on the roads, traversed almost entirely by light carriages, is not very great. In many parts the roads run on the tops of the dykes; and, as there are no parapets or railings, there is at least the appearance of danger, and accidents sometimes happen. § 4. TRAVELLING BY WATER—TREKSCHCITEN. The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and' afi‘ord the most abundant means of conveyance in eVery direction. ’ Barrens, called Trekschuiten (drag-boats), navigate the canals, and convey passengers and goods: they are nearly filled by a long low cabin, divided by a partition into two parts; the fore-cabin, called muim, appropriated to servants and common people; and the after-cabin, or reef, set apart for the better classes, and a little more expensive; it is smaller, and will contain 8 or 10 persons. The reef has a small open space at the stern, where you can stand upright and breathe the air beside the steersman. It is generally fitted up with neatness, and may be engaged by a party exclusively for their own use; but Dutch people of any station rarely resort to the trekschuit. The railways now established through Holland are gradually diverting much of the traffic from the old channel of the slow canal and treksehnit; still, notwithstanding all the drawbacks, for the mere novelty of the thing, no ‘ one should visit Holland without making trial of this, the national conveyance . On a fine day it is a very agreeable mode of travelling. The towing-horse is ridden by a lad (het jagertje), who receives a few cents [at each stage, and is well paid with a stuiver. It is amusing to observe how quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the tow-rope, ' and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. When-7 ever the barge approaches another coming in a contrary direction, the boatmen exchange the two monosyllables “ buy " and “ vull,” indicating which is to go B 2 Holland; § 4. Travelling by WaterQé—Treksciiuiten. 3 tion of the engineer, from the’numbergof canals which they cross, and which presented considerable difficulties, overcome by ingenious expedients, such as rolling and swing bridges. The Antwerp Rly. between Rotterdam and ROOSendaal traverses four great arms of the Maas and Rhine by bridges of ‘ 2 or’3 miles in total length, superseding three very inconvenient ferries. A large part of the lines is founded on piles, often under water, and the roadway is laid on faggots bound together by stakes and wattles. Diligences.—On such of the great roads as have no competing railroad, diligences run several times a-day. They are very precise in the time of starting. They belong to private individuals or companies licensed by Govern- ment, and travel at the rate of about 6 miles an hour. If more persons apply for places than can be accommodated in the coach, an additional carriage, or‘ “by-chaise,” is prepared, by which the passenger may proceed at the same rate of fare as by the main diligence. The Dutch league (“ uren gaans,” or the distance a man will walk in an hour) is 5555 metres = 33 English miles. Roads—The high roads connecting the principal towns and villages of N. and S. Holland are generally paved with bricks, and are excellent. The arms roads consist merely of loose sand, and are wretchedly bad, and in wet weather barely passable. There are no stones in a large part of Holland’; but the want of stones is supplied by a small and tough kind of bricks called klinkers, which, after the foundation of the road is levelled, are placed edgcwise close together, and the interstices filled with sand, so as to form a hard, smooth, and level highway, very pleasant to travel over. The average cost of making such a road is about 17,000 guild, more than 1d00l., per English mile. As all heavy goods are conveyed by water or rail, the wear and tear on the roads, traversed almost entirely by light carriages, is not very great. In many parts the roads run on the tops of the dykes; and, as there are no parapets or railings, there is at least the appearance of danger, and accidents sometimes happen. § 4. TRAVELLL’G BY WATER—TREKSCHUITEN. The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and‘ afford the most abundant means of conveyance in eVery direction. ' BARGES, called Trekschuiten (drag-boats), navigate the canals, and convey passengers and goods: they are nearly filled by a long low cabin, divided by a partition into two parts; the fore-cabin, called ruim, appropriated to servants and common people; and the after-cabin, or roef, set apart for the better classes, and a little more expensive; it is smaller, and will contain 8 or 10 persons. The roef has a small open space at the stern, where you can stand upright and breathe the air beside the steersman. It is generally fitted up with neatness, and may be engaged by a party exclusively for their own use; but Dutch people of any station rarely resort to the trekschuit. The railways now established through Holland are gradually diverting much of the traffic from the old channel of the slow canal and trekschuit; still, notwithstanding all the drawbacks, for the mere novelty of the thing, no ’ one should visit Holland without making trial of this, the national conveyance . On a fine day it is a very agreeable mode of travelling. The towing-horse is ridden by a lad (het jagcrtje), who receives a few cents :at each stage, and is well paid with a stuiver. It is amusing to observe how quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the tow-rope, ‘ and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. When-7 ever the barge approaches another coming in a contrary direction, the boatmen exchange the two monosyllablcs “ huy ” and “ vull,” indicating which is to go 1) 0 4 , § 5. \Waterr—G. Inna—4. General! View. Sect. I. to the right and which to the left, and the one drops his rope for’ the other to ‘ pass over. . * The advantage of the trekschuit is principally its cheapnessf The usual cost of ‘travelling by it is abOnt 5 cents a mile. Ex‘cepting on the lines where railways are opened, the communication is kept up constantly between all the great towns of Holland and the intervening places by trekschuits. A boat sets out several times a day, starting with the greatest punctuality; and if a passenger be not on board at the stroke of the clock, he runs a risk of losing his passage. § 5. DRINKING WATER. _ Amsterdam is now well supplied by a water company from Haarlem, but in the provinces of the Netherlands bordering on the sea the water is generally very bad, not drinkable; and strangers should be careful to avoid it altogether, except externally. In many parts good drinking water is brought in large stone bottles from Utrecht; so that Utrecht water must be asked for at inns. As a substitute for spring water, the cfi‘crvescent waters of Apollinaris, Seltzer, Geilnau, and Fachingcn, from the Brunnen of Nassau, and other natural mineral waters, are much drunk at meals, but are usually very dear. § 6. Ixxs—CAriés. Holland is an expensive country to live in; the guilder does not go much further than the franc in Belgium or France; taxes, and the wages of labour are very high; the inns are consequently nearly as dear as in England. Notwithstanding this, excepting the very best, they are inferior to those of most other countries of Western Europe. Dutch inns and beds are, however, generally clean. ‘ Charges—A bed-room. which is titted 11p to be a sitting-room, costs, on an average, from 1 to 3 guilders: dinner at the table-d‘hote, 1% to 2% guilders; s ditto in private, 2 to 3 guildcrs; breakfast with tea or coffee, 70 cents. Service % guilder per diem. The dinner-hour, at tables-d’hOtc, is usually 5 o’clock. Wine is always extra, and very dear; except in smaller towns and second-~ class inns, where half a bottle of ordinary Bordeaux is generally included. Restaurants are good and economical, and may be recommended to the English traveller for early luncheon. Later in the day they are apt to be full of smoke and inconveniently crowded. Cafes in the principal towns are numerous and well-provided; but ladies may best obtain coli‘ee, chocolate, or ices, at a eont‘ectioncr’s. ‘ § 7. GENERAL anw or HOLLAND. There is not, perhaps, a country in Europe which will more surprise an ‘intelligent traveller than Holland. Although so near to our coasts, and so easily accessible, it is too often passed over by the English in their haste~to reach the picturesque scenes of the Rhine and Switzerland. The attractions of Holland are certainly of a different kind; but they are of a character so entirely peculiar, that, whether a traveller visit this country at the outset or termination of his tour, he will be equally sure. to find in it what he has not seen before. May, June, September, and October are the best months for visiting Holland. A large part of Holland is a delta, formed of the alluvium deposited by the Holland. '\ “- §7. General View of Holland ' 1 5 Rhine and other rivers, in the same manner as the Delta of Egypt has been , formed by the Nile. The greater portion of it has been perseveringly rescued _ from the water, to whose dominion it may almost be said to belong, by the cone tinual efforts and ingenuity of man, and 1n a long series of yea1s. Much of it 1s mud driven up by the sea, in return for what it carries away from some parts of the coast. W ere human agency and care 1emoved but for 6 months, the waves would, without doubt, regain their ancient dominion—so much of the land lies below the level of the sea ;—and an extensive tract of the country would be reduced to the state of those vast wastes, composed of sand and mud- banks, quite unfit for human habitation, which now lie at the mouths of\ the Nile and the Mississippi. And yet these fields, gained with such difficulty, and preserved by constant watchfulness, from the waters, have been, in more instances than one, inundated by their owners during their contests with foreign fees; and Dutch patriotism has not hesitated to subject the land to temporary ruin in the desire of preserving liberty. The cutting of the dykes, and opening of the sluice-gates, which was resorted to in order to free Holland from Spanish tyranny, was a desperate resource, and in itself a national calamity, entailing begga1y for some years upon a lalgc portion of the popula- tion, owing to the length of time and the very great expense which a second recovery of the land from the sea required. This glorious sacrifice, however, served to show that it needs not the mountains of Switzerland nor the fastnesses of Tyrol to enable a brave people to defend their native land. Holland may be considered in many respects as the most wonderful country, perhaps, under the sun: it is certainly unlike every other. .What elsewhere would be considered as impossible has here been carried into effect, and incongruities have been rendered consistent. “The house built upon the sand” may here be seen standing; neither Amsterdam nor Rotterdam has any better foundation than sand, into which piles are driven through many feet of superincumbent bog earth; and to form a correct idea of these and other wonderful cities and towns standing on the morass, one must not forget the millions of solid beams hidden under ground which support them. We speak contemptuously of anything which is held together by straws; yet a long line of coast of several provinces is consolidated by no other means than a few reeds intermixed with straw wisps, or woven into mats. Without this frail but effectual support, the fickle dunes would be driven about into the interior, and would overwhelm entire districts of cultivated land. “ The whole of Holland is protected from the sea by the dunes or natural sand-hills —except where gaps occur in their continuity; and there their place is supplied by a1 tificial dykes.” In Holland the laws of nature seem to be reve1sed; the sea is hig11e1 than the land; the lowest ground in the country is 24: feet below high-water mark, and, when the tide is driven high by the wind, 30 feet! Inc 110 other country do the keels of the ships float 2:above the chimneys of the houses, and nowhere else does the f1og, croakiug from among the bul1us11es, look down upon the swallow on the house- -top. Excepting the eastein provinces the parks of Haarlcm and the Hague, and the avenues leading from one city to another, the land does not produce much wood; but then entire Norwegian forests have been buried beneath the mud 1n the shape of piles “ The total of the hydlaulic works between the Dollart and the Schelde have been estimated by a competent judge to have cost 300, 000, 000l. ste1ling, and form in so small a countiy a most astonishing monument of human industry ”—Telfoz cl. The constant attention which a Dutchman has been obliged to give to maintaining in pe1fect order the g1eat works on which his safety depends, and the artificial nature of the country itself which he has formed for his residence and suppmt, have given a formal and methodical di1ection to his tastes in cases where Nature t’would have been better left to herself. Thus 6 ' _ \§7. General View of Holland. » Sect. I. trees are often found growing, not in the natural way, but as they have been arranged by the plummet and line, in rank and file in straight rows and avenues. Their branches are not allowed to spread abroad as nature intended, but are cut and clipped till they are transformed into green walls, or are , even trained into more grotesque shapes. By way of improving still further upon nature, the trunks and lower branches are sometimes painted over with bright colours in North Holland, partly for the sake of cleanliness, partly to - preserve them from insects. The Dutchman may be said to have 'made even the wind his slave. It might be supposed that the universal flatness, and the absence of those eleva- tions which afl‘ord shelter to other countries, would leave this at the mercy of , every blast that blows, to sweep everything before it. So far is this from being the case, that not a breath of air is allowed to pass without paying toll, , as it were, by turning a windmill. These machines are so numerous in N. and S. Holland, that they may be said to be never out of sight ina Dutch landscape. In the suburbs of great cities they are congregated like armies of giants spreading out their bread arms, as if to protect the streets and houses which they overlook. With us they are rarely used except to grind corn: in Holland they are employed almost as variously as the steam-engine; they saw timber, crush rape-seeds for oil, grind snuff, beat hemp, &c.; but the principal service which they perform is in drainingthc land,- and here the Dutch have most ingeniously set the wind to counteract the water. At least one half of the windmills have water-wheels attached to them, which act as ‘pumps, and, by constantly raising the water into the canals, alone keep the low land dry and fit for cultivation and the habitation of man. As, however, experience has shown that a first-rate mill is advantageously applied to raise water only 1 ell (=3-28 ft.) at once, 3 or 4 are often planted in a row on stages one above the other, each pumping up the water to the stage above it. They are constructed of much larger dimensions than with us; a single sail is often 120 feet long, and the usual length is 80 feet. There are said to be ‘ 3000 windmills in Holland, and the annual cost of them is valued at 3,600,000 llars. 9Many authors have exercised their wit or spleen in describing this singular country. Thus, Voltaire, irritated by his interviews with the librarians of Amsterdam, took leave of the land and people in these sarcastic words: “Adieu ! canaux, canards, canaille.” Holland has never been more aptly or beautifully described, whether in prose or verse, than by Goldsmith in ‘ The Traveller’ :— “ To men of other minds my fancy flies, Embosomed in the deep where Holland lies. Methinks her patient sons before me stand, \Vhere the broad ocean leans against the land; And, sedulous to stop the coming tide, Lift the tall rampire's artificial pride. Onward niethinks, and diligently slow, The firm connected bulwark seems to grow; Spreads its long arms amidst the watery roar, Scoops out an empire, and usurps the shore. While the pent ocean, rising o’er the pile, Sees an amphibious world beneath him smile; The slow canal, the yellow-blossomed vale, The willow-tufted bank. the gliding sail, The crowded mart. the cultivated plain, A new creation rescued from his reign." . No books can be read with greater pleasure or advantage by a stranger about to visit Holland, and desiring information respecting its history, than Motley’s ‘ Rise of the Dutch Republic,’ and ‘ United Netherlands.’ Holland. , , § 8, Dykes. , 7 i \ § 8. Dms. Holland includes some of the lowest land on the continent of Europe. To keep out the ocean from the sea-bound provinces, and prevent its acquiring territory which seems to be its own, immense dykes or ramparts of earth and , stone are raised along the coast. so broad and strong as to prevent the water passing through them, and sufficiently lofty to bid defiance to inundation at high tide. The rivers and inland lakes in many parts of the country‘are quite as dangerous as the sea, and their waters require to be restrained by dykes nearly as extensive as the sea-dykes. The dykes are frequently planted with trees, as their spreading and inter- lacing roots assist greatly in binding the earth together. The base is often faced with masonry and protected by vast heaps of stones, usually brought from Norway, and by rows of piles 16 feet long, projecting 6 or 7 feet above ground, connected by timber, and filled in with fascines weighted with stones: the upper part of the dyke is covered with turf, and rises sometimes to the height of 40 feet. A road runs along the top, or immediately within it. The most stupendous of these embankments are the dykes of the Helder (Rte. 5), and of Westcapelle, at the W. extremity of the island of Walcheren (Rte. 1). The annual expense of keeping in repair each of them alone amounts to 75,000 guilders (about 64001.); while the sum total annually expended throughout Holland in the repair of dykes and regulation of water- levels varies from 5,000,000 to 7,000,000 guilders (nearly 600,0001.). A special corps of engineers called Waterstaat, including among them many men of science, who receive a special instruction in the College at Delft, are employed entirely in watching the state of the waters and guarding against all accidents from interruptions,-—a most important duty, upon which the national welfare, and, indeed, existence, of Holland may be said to depend. . During the winter they are stationed near those spots where danger is most _ to be apprehended, and magazines are erected, provided with the necessary stores and implements, so as to be ready at a moment’s notice. ‘ But Holland is exposed to far greater danger from internal inundations than even from inroads of the sea, arising from the stopping up of the rivers by the ice when the thaw sets in. All the ice of the Rhine and Meuse must necessarily pass the Dutch rivers; if then it happens that the ice on the German Rhine gets loose before the Dutch rivers are free, or if the iceris stopped in [its course in a narrow part, it forms itself into one solid dam, stretching across from one bank to the other, sometimes 2 miles or more in length, adhering closely to the bed of the river and rising in icebergs high ' above its surface, so as to arrest the passage of the water, which, as it rises, must necessarily overflow the dykes behind it. In 1799, when the very exis~ tence of a large part of Holland was threatened by an inundation'from this source, more formidable perhaps than any other on record, the Rhine rose at N ijmegen 7 feet in one hour; and when the accumulated waters at last broke the ice-dam, they hurried down icebergs so tall as to conceal the houses of Nijmegen from the view of those on the opposite bank. At the moment the dam burst, the river Was filled with ice to the bottom, which, as it scraped along, carried off the gravel with it. So extensive and numerous were the dyke ruptures that a large part of Holland on both banks of the Rhine and Waal was laid under water; the icebergs crossed the polders, sweeping away houses built on the dykes, and the loss of life of men and cattle was enor- mous. Holland is much more liable to river inundation since the improve- ments in the course of the Upper Rhine and the removal of the impediments at the Bin gen Lock, as more water now passes in a given time than formerly. 8 I‘ , , §9. Canals. Sect. I The danger now recurs every winter, especially when a hard frost, during which much snow has fallen in Germany, is followed by a sudden thaw. The arms of Zeeland are a lion swimming, with the motto, Lucter, et'emergo, “I strive, and keep my head above water.” It might be generally applied to the, whole country, which has to maintain a perpetual struggle for exis- tence against difficulties never to be entirely removed. The inhabitant of the provinces bordering on the sea or the Rhine, constantly threatened with the danger of submersion, is not more secure than he who dwells on the side of Etna, or at the foot of Vesuvius, with a volcano heaving beneath him. A stranger can have a full impression of this only when he walks at the foot of one of those vast dykcs, and hears the roar of the waves on the outside, 16 or 20 feet higher than his head. Some parts of the country lie several feet below the actual bed of the Rhine; as, for instance, the Ablasserwaard, near Gorcum. Indeed, the industry of the early inhabitants of Holland in re- straining their rivers between dykes, so as to prevent periodical inundations, threatens their descendants with a serious calamity at no distant period. It is the nature of all rivers liable to floods to deposit a great part of the detritus brought down by them on their immediate banks, and so to raise them higher than. the morass behind. Their beds, too, are continually raised by the deposit of the earthy particles mechanically suspended in the water. Hence the Rhine and other great rivers now flow along the ridges of great cause- ways or natural embankments formed of the deposit brought down by them in the course of ages, and rising far higher than the surrounding country. This will in all probability be broken through some day or other, and the ‘ Rhine will find a new outlet to the sea. The same results may be seen in the Po and Adigc. (Sec Handbook for N. Italy.) The expense of maintaining the dykes is supported by taxes levied by commissioners appointed for the purpose. ) § 9. CANALS. Holland is so intersected with canals, that to a person looking down upon it from a balloon they would have the appearance of a network extending from one end of the country to the other. They serve, 1st, as the means of communication; every little town or village having its own system of canals, which connects it with all the places around. 2ndly, as drains to carry off the superfluous water of the country. 3rdly, in the place of walls and hedges: fields, gardens, and houses are surrounded by canals or meats, as in other countries by fences ; and they afford an equally good protection. The canals differ considerably from those of England, which are measured out so as barely to admit two narrow barges to pass, and interrupted at short distances by locks. In Holland, as the canal is the drain as well as the high- way of the country, and rids the land of its superabundant moisture, there is no restriction to its breadth; and as there is little variation of level, few locks are required: but those canals which empty themselves into the sea are pro- vided with sluice-gates to prevent the influx of the tides, which are often higher than the waters of the canal itself. The several heights of the waters of Holland are referred to the Amsterdam Pile, which is considered to have been the mean height of the water in the Ij in the century before last; but high water in those days was 2 or 3 inches above the present level. The principal canals are 60 ft. broad and 6 ft. deep. Not only the surface, but even the bottom, is frequently higher than the adjoining land. The North Holland and North Sea canals may be reckoned among the marvels of ‘ Europe, or even of the World (Rte. 3). ‘Holl'anda § 10. Folders—11. Dunes. g ‘ '9 , The discovery of the lock,an invention altogether modern, which has given an entirely new feature to the inland navigation of Europe, has been claimed both by the” Italians and the Dutch. “ There is strong reason to believe that in Holland the lock was known, and in use, at least a century before its ap- plication in Italy.”—Telforcl: Edin. Cycl. Inclined planes for transferring vessels from one level to another, similar to those in China, under the name of rolling bridges, have been long known in Holland. The object seems to have been, not so much to overcome a difference of level, as to prevent the transference of water from one tract of country to another, on account of the jealousy of drainage. One of the most remarkable of this kind is the Over- toom, between Amsterdam and the Haarl em Meer, which is mentioned on account of the interest which the city of Haarlem has in continuing the ship navigation through the ancient sea sluices of S parendam, § 10. POLDERS; PEAT. Folder is the name given to a piece of ground below the level of the sea or * river, which, having once been a morass or lake (plus, Anglicé plush), has been surrounded by embankments, and then cleared of the water by pumps. So large apart of Holland and Belgium was originally in the condition of .morass, that whole districts are composed entirely of polders partitioned of by dykes or ramparts; and the ground thus drained is usually remarkable for its richness and fertility. Many of the polders in the Rijnland, or district around Leiden, are 32 ft. below the sea. Besides the natural lakes, the extent of surface covered by water has been much increased by digging for fuel. The natural fuel of the Netherlands is peat, the brown spongy peat obtained from the higher bogs (hooge veenen, or fens) of Friesland, and the black, solid, and more earthy peat of the low mosses (laage veenen) of N. and S. Holland, whose surface is rarely above the level of the sea. From Rotterdam to the Helder they cover a very large area, and have proved rich mines of fuel for many ages. The annual consumption at present is estimated at ten million tons. “An excellent opportunity will be afforded to the traveller to view the results and processes of a drainage on the very largest scale in the empty and now cultivated basin of the great Lake of Haarlem. § 11. DUNES. The Dunes, or sand-hills, which extend along the coast of Holland from Dunkirk, nearly without interruption, to the Helder, varying in breadth between 1 and 3 miles, and rising sometimes to 40 or 50 ft. in height, are , formed entirely by the action of the wind blowing up the sand of the sea- shore; they are a source of good and evil to the country; they serve as a natural barrier to keep out the ocean,—~—a benefit which, but for the ingenuity and contrivance of man, would be more than counterbalanced by the injury done by their progress inland. On the sea-shore they aremere loose heaps, driven about by every blast, like snow-wreaths on the Alps; and, were they not restrained, would move onward year after year and overwhelm the country; In passing over a desert of this kind at Scheveningen, on a windy day, the atmosphere appears thick with the particles of sand blown like smoke through the air. The height of the dunes depends upon the fineness of the sand, as the wind has, of course, the most power in transporting the minuter particles. Camperdown, memorable in the naval annals of Britain, is one of the 10f tiest on the whole coast, owing to this cause. - I 10 ' § 12. Gardens and Summer-Houses; ' Sect, 1. To check the dispersion of the sand, the dunes are sowed regularly every year with plants congenial to it, for even sand has a vegetation peculiar to itself, which may be called luxuriant: but a species of coarse reed-grass, or sea-bent, which grows near the sea (Amado arenaria), whose roots sometimes spread to a distance of 30 ft., is principally employed, and to greatest advantage. In a short time the roots spread and combine, so as to hold fast the sand, and cover the surface with a succession of verdant vegetation, which, growing and decaying on it, accumulates upon it a layer of earth capable at length of producing a crop of excellent potatoes, and even of supporting plantations of firs. Most of the plants thus cultivated on the dunes may be seen in the Botanic Garden at Leiden. § 12. GARDENS AND Svmxanousss. Though the charm of variety of aspect and inequality of surface has been denied by nature to Holland, compensation is made for this, in a certain degree, by the high cultivation of its fields and gardens. In whatever, direc- ' tion the traveller passes through the country, and whether by road or canal, he will find the way enlivened by country seats (buiten plaatsen) and pleasure- gardens, in the laying out and maintaining of which great wealth is expended, though they do not always show much taste. They present the most perfect pictures of prettiness, with their meandering walks and fantastically cut parterres, filled with flowers of gaudiest hue. If possible, each garden is provided with a fish~pond; and, if it be wanting, the first step which a , Dutch proprietor invariably takes, upon entering a newly-acquired demesne, is to dig a large hole that he may convert into a pond ; so great an attachment does he appear to have for that element which surrounds him on all sides, which is never out of his sight, and which invariably stagnates before his door in the shape of a canal. At the extremity of the garden a pair of iron gates is erected, often more for ornament than use. Through these, or through \ a gap made purposely in the hedge, the passer-by is admitted to spend his “admiration on the beauties withiu,—on the pyramids of flower-pots, trim box borders, and velvet lawns and grass-plots. At the very end of the garden, overlooking the high road or canal, is always placed a zomerhuis (summer- house), tuinhuis (garden-house), or koepel (cupola); this is the resort of the family in spring and summer afternoons. Here the men smoke their pipes _ , and sip their beer, coffee, or tea; the old ladies ply the knitting-needle, and the young ones amuse themselves with eyeing and criticising the passer-s-by. In the neighbourhood of all the large towns, the citizens and tradespeople, who have their shops and counting-houses in the crowded and narrow streets, generally have such a pavilion in a small garden on the outskirts, even though they have no house attached to it, to which they can retire when the business of the day is over. Very frequently on entering the town, the traveller passes through a whole street of such gazabos. By a peculiarity of taste, they are invariably placed in a stagnant ditch, which is usually covered with a luxuriant crop of green duckweed, and often otl‘ends the nose by the noisome odours which it exhales. “These little buildings are so very numerous as to form a characteristic feature of the country. Each villa has its name or some motto inscribed over the gateway, the choice of which is generally meant. to bespcuk content and comfort on the part of the owner; and they afford a source of amusement to the stranger as he passes along. Thus, among others, we read, ‘ Lust en rust,’ Pleasure and ease; ‘ Wel tevreedeu,’ Well contented; ‘Mijn genegenhcid is voldaan,’ My desire is satisfied; ‘Mijn lust en leveu,’ My pleasure and life ; ‘ Niet zoo kwaalijk,’ Not so bad; ‘Gerustelijk en wel tevreedeu,’ Tranquil Holland. 7, § 13. Dutch School of Painting. \ I 11 I and content; ‘ Vriendschap en gezelschap,’ Friendship and sociability; ‘Het vermaak is in’t hovenieren,’ There is pleasure in gardening. And over the‘ entrance to one of the tea-gardens near Rotterdam tWfiS inscribed, ‘ De vleesch [potten van Egypte,’ The flesh-pots of Egypt. Some of the larger gardens abound with fruits and vegetables, and beds and borders of flowering shrubs and plants are laid out in all the grotesque shapes that can be imagined. It must he confessed, however, that an air of comfort presides over these villas. , Most of the dwelling-houses are gaily painted in lively colours ; all the offices and out-houses are kept in neat order; while the verdant meadows are covered with the finest cattle, most speckled black and white.”—Family Tour in South Holland. The following description proceeds from the sarcastic and dashing pen of , the author of “Vathek,” and may be regarded as an amusing caricature of Dutch taste :——“ Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the other. The sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour to conquer the filthiness. But perhaps I am too bold in my assertion, for I have no authority to mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous banquetting-rooms and pleasure houses which hang directly above their surface and seem calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of their country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they are), one should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their pavilions in such situa- tions.”-—-Beclgford. § 13. DUTCH SCHOOL or PAINTING f—PICTUBE-GALLERIES IN HOLLAND. “ The most considerable of the Dutch schools are Rembrandt, Teniers, Jan Steen, Ostade, Brouwer, Gerard Douw, Mieris, Metzu, and Terburg: these ‘ excel in small conversations ; for landscapes and cattle, Wouwerman, P. Potter, Berehem, Ruysdael, Hobbema, Adrian Vandevelde, Both, and Cuyp; and for buildings, Vanderheyden; for sea views, W. Vandevelde, jun., and Back- huysen; for dead and live game and birds, VVeenix and Hondekoeter; for flowers, De Heem, Vanhuysum, Rachel Ruisch, and Breughel; and for interiors and perspectives, Peter de Hooghe. These make the bulk of the Dutch school. . “I consider those paimters as belonging to this school who painted only small conversations and landscapes, 850. Though some of those were born in Flanders, their works are principally found in Holland: and to separate them from the Flemish school, which generally paint-ed figures as large as life, it appears to me more reasonable to class them with the Dutch painters, and to distinguish these two schools rather by their style and manner than by the place where the artist happened to be born. “ The works of David Tcniers, jun., are worthy the closest attention of a painter who desires to excel in the mechanical knowledge of his art. His manner of touching, or what we call handling, has, perhaps, never been equalled. There is in his pictures that exact mixture of softness and sharpness which is difficult to execute. 1* The excellent Handbooks of Painting by Kugler (Italian schools edited by Sir Charles Eastlakc, P.R.A., and German and Dutch schools edited by J. G. Crowe), and the ‘ Handbook to the Public and Private Galleries of Holland and Belgium,’ by Lord Ronald Gower, may safely be recommended as companions to these who visit the picture-galleries of the Continent. 12H i . § 14. Pec‘ztlz'alr'ities in Dutch Manners, etc. ‘7 Scot, I. “ Jan Steen has a strong manly style of painting, and he has shown the greatest skill in composition and management of light and shadow, as Well as greattruth in the expression and character of his figures.”—Sivr Joshua . Reynolds. § 14. SOME PECULIARITIES IN DUTCH MANNERS, ETC. . A voyage round half the globe would scarcely transport the English traveller to a scene more strange and enlivening, or more different from What he sees at home, than that presented by the streets of a Dutch town. They are so thoroughly intersected by canals (grachten), that most of them might properly 1 be termed quays, lined with houses and bordered with rows of tall trees. The canals swarm with the picturesque craft whose gilt prows, round stems, and painted sides are rendered so familiar beforehand by the paintings of Cuyp, Vandevelde, and other Dutch artists. At intervals the canals are crossed by drawbridges (ophaatbruggen), by which a communication is kept up between one ‘part of the town and another. The intermixture of trees, water, shipping, ~ and houses; the bustle of loading and unloading vessels in front of the owners’ doors; and the tall red-brick houses, with variously pointed gables and variegated tiles, so highly-polished that they glitter in the sunshine, have a pleasing as well as novel aspect. Mirrors—One of the first things that will strike a stranger’s eye in a Dutch town are the little mirrors (spiegels) projecting in front of the windows of almost all the houses. They consist of two pieces of glass placed at an angle of 45° to each other, the one reflecting up, the other down the street. By means of this contrivance the Dutch lady may see all that passes outside, without the trouble of going to the window, or the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze; and, while she sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, may continue her knitting or sewing uninterruptedly. Cleanliness—It may appear paradoxical to say that cleanliness is carried to excess in Holland ; but the passion for purifying really runs to such a height among Dutch housewives that the assertion is by no means groundless : everything has an air of freshness. It will be productive of some amuse- ment to issue out into the streets of a Dutch town early on a Saturday morning. It is on the last day of the week that an extraordinary schoonmalmt (cleaning) takes place. Every house door presents a scene of most energetic ‘ activity—the brushing and mopping, the scrubbing and scraping, are not confined to steps and door\vays#the pavement, wall, windows, however guiltless they may be of impurity, are all equally subjected to the same course of ablution. Those spots which are out of the reach of hand or broom do not escape a well-aimed stream from the pipe of a small engine-pump, which is' always reserved for such service. The unsuspecting stranger who walks the streets early in the morning is subjected to the danger of perpetual wettings. He looks. up to ascertain whence the shower descends, and he perceives a diligent servant-girl, stretched out of a window half her length, and, with eyes intently turned upwards, discharging howls full of water upon some refractory stain, imperceptible to all but herself. The purification does not end without subjecting the instrument of cleanliness, the broom itself, however worn out or old, to a course of cleansing. Within doors equal purity and pre- cision reign. In some parts of Holland the visitor of a farmer or peasant of the better class is obliged to put off his shoes before he enters the house; but he is everywhere expected to clean them most carefully before admission is granted. In the dairies of North Holland the traveller will have the best opportunity of appreciating the full extentof Dutch cleanliness. It does not, however, require a long acquaintance With the Dutch to remark that this Holland. I; §1~4. Peculiarz'tz'esiia Dutch Manners, etc. \ ' - 13 j persevering and almost painful cleanliness is not always extended to their ' persons, especially among the lower orders,-Who indeed are not more cleanly . than the same class in England. One of the essentials of comfort for a Dutch lady is the Vuur Sloof, a square box, opelron one side to admit an earthen pan filled with hot embers of turf,’ and perforated at the top. to allow the heat to ascend and warm the feet: it serves as a footstool, and is concealed under the dress. The use of it is rarely dispensed With, whatever be the season, in doors or out—the citizen’s wife has it carried after her by her servant to church or the theatre. Hundreds of these fire-pots may be seen piled 11p in the aisles of the churches. To announce that sickness is in a house, a paper is stuck upon the door, containing the daily bulletin of the invalid’s health, drawn up by a doctor, which prevents the necessity of ringing and the chance of disturbing the sick person when friends come to inquire after him. In two of the towns of Holland, Haarlem and Enkhuysen, on certain occasions, a silk pincushion covered and fringed with plaited lace is exposed at the door—the sex of the infant being marked by the colour; if a boy, red; if a girl, white. The , house which shows in this manner that the number of its inhabitants has been increased by a birth enjoys by ancient law and custom various im- munities and privileges. For a certain number of days nothing which is likely to disturb a lady so situated is allowed to approach it. It is protected from legal executions; no bailiffs dare to molest its inmates; no soldiers can be billeted in it; and, when troops pass it on the march, the drums cease to beat. A sort of basket decorated with evergreen, ears of corn, bits of silk and tinsel hung out over a shop door, denotes the recent arrival of herrings, much prized as a delicacy by the Dutch. Before a traveller has been many days in Holland he will probably meet in the street a man dressed in black, with a cocked hat and wig, along crape hatband, and a short cloak : he is called the Aanspreker, and his duty is, on the death of any one, to announce the event to the friends or connections of the deceased. The Kermis (wake or fair) is a sort of Dutch carnival, and exhibits many peculiarities of character. The servant-girls, when being hired, always str- pulate with their masters for a certain number of holidays or kermis—days. They swarm at these festivals in company ‘with their sweethearts ; indeed, sweethearts are sometimes hired for these occasions, so that the damsel who has not one for love may have him for money. The Stork—One of the peculiarities of Holland is the sort of veneration in which the stork (called ooyevaar) is held by the peasant inhabitants. These birds are not only never injured or disturbed, but a cartwheel or some other contrivancc is often placed on the house-top for their use, if not expressly to invite them to settle, at least to prevent their becoming a nuisance, since otherwise the bird, attracted by the warmth of the fire, would naturally deposit the materials of its nest on the chimney-top itself, so as to stop it up, dirty the house, and perhaps set it on fire, which the owner prevents by a stand or rest so placed as to allow the smoke to escape from beneath it. Their huge nests may be seen perched on the roofs of farm-houses, and even in the town, on the edge of a gable, or near a chimney: it is considered a good omen to a dwelling and its inmates if the stork select it for its habitation; and to kill one of these birds is looked upon in hardly any other light than a crime. The main army of storks migrate to a southern climate about the middle of _ , August, taking with them the young brood which they have reared. They return in the spring about the month of May. The old ones never fail to seek out their former nests. During a great fire, which, in 1536, destroyed a large . part of the town of Delft, the storks were seen bearing away their young ones 14 § 15. Music; Organs.—16. Agriculture. Sect. 1.. ‘ rom their nest through the midst of the flames, and, where they were unable to effect this, perishing with them rather than abandon them. Several of the Dutch poets allude to this well-authenticated fact. N ightingalcs, and singing-birds in general, are also protected from molesta- tion in Holland; and bird—nesting, and every other injury to the melodists of the wood, are severely punished by local laws. § 15. Mtsrc-Oncaxs. *‘ The lover of music fares meagrely in Holland. The operatic theatres at Amsterdam and the Hague are principally occupied (when open) by third-rate German, French, and Italian companies, which may be also met with in the smaller towns, shorn, of course, to provincial dimensions. But those Who are ‘ curious in organs ’ will find much to interest them in Holland. The taste for mechanical devices, which has planted bleating clockwork sheep in ~ Mijnheer’s pleasure-garden. has indulged itself, with more dignity, in com- missioning for the churches instruments grand in scale, and curious in the variety of their component parts. If Holland cannot be said to have pos- sessed a school of organ-builders analogous, for instance, to the famous Alsatian family of the Silbermanns, yet the land possessed, during the last century, several men of renown, such as Batti of Utrecht, Christian Miiller of ‘Amsterdam (the builder of the Haarlem organ), and Hess of Gouda. The organs at Haarlem, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Gouda, Delft, and Utrecht (and I have been told also at Leeuwarden, Beverwijk, and Nijmegen), are all ' worthy of attention. There are many treatises on organ-building in Dutch. The players seem generally in no respect worthy of their instruments, yet the powerful and unisonal psalmody sustained by the full organ, and filling the lofty churches with a volume of rich and robust sound, treats those attending public worship to a musical effect such as I, at least, have heard in no other place.”—H. F. Charley. ~The Protestant Churches are always shut, except on Sundays, but the sacristan generally lives close by, often in a small house built up against the walls of the church itself. Fee, 25 to 50 cents for a single visitor. ' § 16. AGRICULTURE. Owing to the peculiar situation and the nature of the soil of Holland the agriculturist has to contend with many difficulties, and consequently to resort . to many methods and resources not much attended to in other countries. Travellers, therefore, who take an interest in agriculture may observe much ‘dcserving of their attention. Dutch dairy-farms, too, have long been famous. A few of the more remarkable peculiarities and features of the agriculture of the Netherlands are here pointed out. Those who wish for further informa- tion on these subjects may consult the following works. from which these observations are extractedz—On the Agriculture of the Netherlands, Agric. Journal, vol. ii. pp. 43—64; vol. iii. 40—263. Outlines of Flemish Husbandry-— Library of Useful Knowledge. British Husbandry, vol. iii. When the sand is deep, with little or no loam near the surface, it is a tedious process to bring the land into cultivation. Much of the sandy heaths which lie between Antwerp and the Maas remain in a state of nature, pro- ducing nothing but scanty tufts of heath interspersed with a few very coarse grasses. Some spots have been brought under cultivation by the most inde- Holland. ' ' ‘ § 16. Agriculture. ‘ ‘ * 15 fatigable industry. By trenching and levelling, mixing the heavier soils with the sand, by a careful addition of manure both solid and liquid, and by first sowing such plants as will grow on this barren soil, a stratum of pro- ductive soil is gradually collected. The instruments of tillage are few 'and simple, especially the ploughs, which, however, are well adapted to the light soil of the country. An instrument, called a traineau in Belgium, is used to level the surface of the light soils, without too much compressing them. A rodded hurdle is also used for the same purpose. The harrows are mostly triangular, with wooden teeth set at an acute angle forwards. The mollebart, which is used in the levelling of newly-trenched land, is an instrument peculiarly Flemish or Dutch; it is a very large wooden shovel, in form like a housemaid’s dustpan, with a stout long handle. In many parts of the Netherlands, owing to the constant presence of water, the soil is better calculated for meadows than arable land. In these meadows, especially in N. Holland and Friesland, a very fine breed of milch ‘ cows and oxen is fed. The quantity of butter exported (chiefly to England), and its value in foreign markets, prove that the operations of the dairy are well conducted. The rich soil, no doubt, gives a good quality to the butter ; but this is not the only cause of its superiority. The extraordinary cleanli- ness of every part of a dairy, and its furniture, show the unremitted attention of the dairywoman. Besides .this, the cows, and even the litter, are kept so clean that it is a pleasure to walk through the stables; and the family often make one end of the cow-house their usual sitting-room, having a fire-place in it, and at least one comfortable bed for a labourer or servant, who always sleeps in the cow-house. The arrangement of a Dutch dairy is as follows :—The building is generally like a large barn, with a roof coming to within 7 or 8 feet of the ground, some- times tiled or slated, but more often thatched with reeds, which keep it warm in winter. Through the middle, from end to end, is a space 10 or 12 feet broad, paved with hard bricks. The heads of the cows are placed towards this middle space, from which all their food is given to them in a shallow trough made of bricks, with a gentle fall from end to end to allow of sweeping and washing. As straw is scarce, the cows lie on smooth bricks laid sloping, and slightly hollow in the middle; and their beds are made of such a length, that when the cows stand their tails hang over the gutter that drains the stall. The cleanliness is carried to such a degree, that in many cow-houses there are pulleys, and lines over them, with a weight at one end, the other being fastened to the end of the tail ofa cow to keep it up, and prevent its dipping into the gutter behind. Everything which falls from the cow is swept away immediately, and the water arising from the constant washing of every part of the cow-house runs into a tank, and serves to dilute the dung, which, after a time, is pumped up, and either carried in water-carts to the meadows, or mixed up with earth and the litter of the horses into compost. The cows usually come into their winter quarters in November, and are put out to graze in May, if the weather is mild. When first the cows are let out into the meadows, a piece of coarse cloth is put over their 10ins, and tied round their bodies, to prevent the injurious effects of cold dews and fogs. The milk-room is almost always vaulted, and sunk somewhat under the level of the ground. The floor is laid with porous tiles, and, being kept wet, the evaporation keeps the cellar cool. The milk is brought from the cow- house in large brass v93scls in the shape of Etruscan water-cans, which, when full, carry the milk without much shaking. Salt is added to the butter as soon as made; no Dutchman would touch butter which had no salt in it, however fresh it might be. The butter made in summer, when the cows feed in the pastures, is of a very fine golden colour and agreeable taste. When the 16" pastures are not so Rotate .1.-.—Llond_oa. to iRotte'rdarn. ‘1 Sect. 1.3 rich. this colour is sometimes givenartificially, but the W natural colour cannot be imitated so as to deceive any but the inexperienced. The. best Dutch cheese is a new-milk cheese made near Gouda. round cheeses come from Edam. The little Very large cattle are fattened in the rich meadows of N. Holland. They I have, large bones, and are deficient in some points considered essential by the feeder for a cattle show; but their meat is excellent. Large quantities of « oxen and sheep are exported to England, in steamers which take no other cargo, chiefly from Harlingen. to recommend them. The horses in the Netherlands may be The sheep are almost long-legged animals, with dropping ears, which have notlnng universally large, but their slze divided into two distinct breeds;- the heavy Flanders horses, which are either light chestnut-coloured, with . white tails and manes, or roan. They are bulky and inactive, and inferior to the Suffolk Punch, which breed, no doubt. came originally from Flanders, .but has been improved by care in breeding. The Friesland horses are mostly black, and some of them are very strong aml active, and will do much work and draw very heavy loads. A breed of very fast trotters is encouraged by ' trotting matches (p. 68). ROUTES THROUGH HOLLAND. ROUTE 1. LONDON T0 no'r'rnnmn, BY rm‘snrxa. Twice daily in 10% hrs. Fares: 153. or 108. Return, within (30 days. 223, or 15S. Luggage examined at Flushing; 56 lbs. free. 256 m. Rly. from Victoria, Ilolborn, or Ludgate Hill, to 50 m. Queenborough Stat. Steamer onwards, in about 8% hrs. The food supplied on board is better than that at the Flushing butt‘et. The course from the Thames to the Sehelde runs nearly due E. in a straight line. Just before entering the mouth of the river called the Bond, or West Schelde, the land on the l. is Walcheren, the largest of the 9 islands which form the province of Zeeland (Sea land). The district is most appropriately so named, since the greater part of it lies many feet below the level of the sea. The isles of Zeeland, separated from one another by the. different branches of the Sehelde, are protected from the inroads of the ocean, partly by natural sand- banks or dunes (§ 11), partly by enormous dykes or sea-walls (§ 8), which measure more than 300 m. in length, and cost annually more than 12 millions of florins to keep them in repair. 0f the great dyke at West- capelle, 011 the W. point of the island, conspicuous by its lighthouse, it is said, that, had it been originally made of solid eopper, the first cost would have been less than the sums already expended in building and repairing it. The polders, or drained and dyked meadows, are divided by the water engineers into’ two classes—these nearest the sea or river, which are. of course most exposed to inundation, 5 mum. we called polders calamiteua: ; ,the more distant are distinguished as non , calmm‘teum, The first class requires stronger dykes, the maintenance of which is considered so important that they are kept up partly at the expense of government; those further inland, not being equally exposed to danger, are maintained by the province or by private individuals. A large portion of the country being thus partitioned out, as it were, by dykes, even should the outer or sea- dykc break, the extent of the disaster is limited by these inner defences, and the further ravages of the flood are prevented. Notwithstanding the care with which they are continually watched, a rupture took place, in 1808, in the great dyke of “’estcapelle, by which a great part of the island of . Walcheren was inundated; the sea stood as high as the roofs of the houses in the streets of Middelburg, and the destruction of that town was prevented solely by the strength of its walls. ‘The whole province is most fertile ~ and productive, especially in corn and madder, which may be considered the staple products. Its meadows, ma- , nured with wood-ashes. hear excellent grass. It is also exceedingly populous, abounding in towns and villages ; but, owing to the embankments which enclose them, the only indications of their existence are the summits of spires, roofs, and tall chimneys, seen at intervals over these artificial mounds by those who ascend the Schelde, The industry of the Zeeland peasant, and the economy with which he hus- bands his resources, arevery remark- able, and might furnish a good ex- , ample to the same class in our own country. OppOsite to Walchcren is Cadsand, memorable in the English expedition 'of 1809, and the scene of a glorious victory gained by the valiant Sir Walter Manny and Henry Planta- genet Earl of Derby, at the head of the chivalry of England, over a large body of Flemings, in the pay of the French king, Philip de Valois, in 1337. The English, efl'ecting a landing in the face of the enemy, drove them [IIolland, 1888.] ~Route 1.4Fluslting. . ' 17~ from the sand-hills ‘on which they were posted, and took, burned, and razed the town. ‘ The cloth-yard shafts of the English archers did great execution, and the personal prowess of the two leaders contributed not a little, to the issue of the day. The channel contracts, and the first town perceived on the It. bank of the river is 123 m. FLUSHING (10,500. Buffet, poor). [Steamer across the VVester Schelde to Bred-tens (compare Rte. 51); up the river in 1% hr. to (15 m.) Terneuzen (Rte. 40), whence train to Ghent or Antwerp ; and N. along the broad canal to Middelburg.] Flushing (Dutch Vlz'ssz'ngen, Fr. Flessz'ngue) is a clean, quiet, and picturesque town, intersected by canals and basins. A large floating dock with extensive quays and wide gates was built in 1875, but appears to have completely failed in attracting trade There is an outer tidal harbour, in , which the Queenborough steamers lie alongside a pier, distant a mile from the town, but connected with the town, stat. by steam tramway. The fortifi- cations have been mostly cleared away to make room for the new Basin, and detached forts at some distance from the town have been substituted. The large building near the new basin is the old Arsenal, and close to it are the now empty old Navy Stores. In the middle of the town stands the Royal Dockyard. Along with Brielle, Flushing was handed over to Queen Elizabeth in, 1585, as security for the subsidy and armed force sent over by her to assist the Dutch under Sir Philip Sidney. They were called “cautionary towns.” After the capture of Antwerp by Parma, the English garrison and Dutch vessels of war effectually shut up the Schelde, and Antwerp for a time ceased to be a port. _ Flushing, held by the French, was bombarded and taken by the-English, under Lord Uhatham in 1809. This unprofitable and cruel exploit was the sole result of the Walcheren cxpedi- tion, the largest and best-equipped c 18 armament which ever left the shores of Britain, consisting of 37 ships of the line, 23 frigates, and 82 gun-boats, ~ containing a force of 100,000 men, who might have carried Antwerp by a coup-de-main. Admiral de Ruiter was born here in 1607, the son of a rope-maker ; a statue has been erected to him by his towns- folk near the entrance of the Keep- man’s Havn. , The climate 'of Walcheren is un- healthy in spring and autumn, when even the natives are liable to ague, or a species of marsh fever called the koorts. The fever, however, is not contagious, and may be avoided by protecting the person with warm clothes against the sudden transitions of temperature, and by careful diet. Many of the inhabitants are very long-lived. The island next to Walcheren, form- ing the rt. bank of the river, is Znid Beveland, whose chief town is Goes (see below). Opposite Flushing is Fort Breskens, commanding the en~ trance of the Schelde. On the 1. bank, but at some distance 011', is Biervliet, a small town, only deserving of mention because a native of this place, William Beukels, in- vented in 1386 the art of curing 11er- rings. A monument has been erected to his memory in the church, and the Emperor Charles V. once made a pil- grimage to his tomb in recognition of the benefit conferred by him upon his , country. Biervliet was detached from the continent by an inundation in 1377, which submerged 19 villages and nearly all their inhab. Dutch indus- try and perseverance have long smce Jecovered every acre. Rly. onward to 4 m. Middelburg Stat. (16,400), a remarkably clean town, the capital of Zeeland, with a splendid *Town Hall, built in 1468, by Charles the Bold, or- namented with 25 colossal statues of Counts and Countesses of Zeelandtin canopied niches, and adorned wrth picturesque gables and Flamboyant { Route 1.—Middelbmg.‘ , Sect; I. tracery. It is surmounted by a fine tower. Within are some historic por- traits of members of the old guilds, together with a collection of Corpora- tion relics, plate, Delft ware, banners, and weapons. In the New Church (St. Peter's), with Gothic tower and spire, is the monu- ment of John and Cornelius Evertsen, admirals slain fighting against the English in 1666. The picturesque Abdy (Abbey) founded in the 12th cent., but restored from time to time in various styles. is now converted into public offices. One of the rooms, Iformerly the Library, contains some fine 16th-cent. tapes- tries. The telescope was invented at Mid- delburg, in 1001, by one Hans Lipper- hey, a spectacle-maker. The Aca- demy of Science (Genootschap der ll’etenschappen) possesses the earliest of these instruments, besides numer- ous Zeeland curiosities, and a portrait of Adm. Ruiter by Ferd. Bel (small fee). On the Dwars Kade is a richly orna- mented Renaissance house of 1590 (Steem'ots), with a triple portion. 3 m. NE. of Middelburg (3: hr.’s drive) is the curious little town of *VEERE (1200; pronounced Fairy), well worth a visit. It is thoroughly Dutch in every way, quiet, primitive, and half deserted, with a grand old Cathedral partly in ruins, now used as a. hospital, the nave being boarded off for Protestant service. The Town Hall is most picturesque, having a. tower, and good front ornamented with statues. Here has been esta- , blished a small Museum of no great interest, except for the sake of a mag— nificent *silver goblet presented to the town by Maximilian ot' Burgundy.’ A broad canal connects Veere with Middelburg and Flushing. On the coast, 11 m. N.W. of Mid- delburg, is Domburg (900), a pleasant little bathing-place. 5 m. S. of it stands Westcapelle (see above). The rly. runs W., and beyond 10 m. Arnemuiden Stat. (1800) crosses a wide arm of the Schelde. - Dutch town. Holland. I , Scenery unattractive, but costumes of the peasantry often very picturesque. 16 m. Goes Stat. (6200), an admira- ble and characteristic specimen of a The late Gothic Church has Idouble aisles. a triple apse, and central tower. Here is an ancient manor-house of the Countess J acque- line, now converted into an Inn. The Town Hall has some modern paintings, and there is a small, provincial Mu- seum. Goes (or Ter-Goes) is memorable in history for the relief so gallantly brought to its enfeebled royalist gar- rison, by the veteran Spanish officer Mondragon, during the siege of 1572. (See Motley.) On the rt. of the rly., close to 29 in. Rilland-Bath Stat, rises Fort Bath, where the English landed in 1809. The Kreek-Ralc, a filled-up arm of the river, is crossed on an embank- ment to 39 m. Bergen-op~Zoom Stat. (10,200), one of the dullest places in the Nether- lands, situated in a marshy country which can easily be laid under water. It was made aMarquisate by CharlesV. in 1533, and ceded to the Netherlands in 1576. In the Town Hall are some historical portraits, and a fine 16th- cent. chimney-piece. Among the numerous sieges and attacks which this little stronghold has endured, the most interesting to the English is Gen. Graham’s nearly successful attempt to carry the place by storm. on the night of the 8th of March, 1814. Two of the 4 attacking columns succeeded in establishing themselves on the ramparts, and had they been properly supported, the place would doubtless have been taken. The rt. column attacked at the entrance of the harbour, which could be forded at low water. They were ultimately repulsed, by the French garrison, with very severe loss. Some hundred British soldiers were buried in the William Bastion, which was removed along with the old fortifications erected by the cele- brated Coehorn, in 1867. The names of the oflicers may be seen in the Route 1.——Bergen-op-Zoora. Dordrecht. 19 church, recorded on a monumental tablet erected by their brother officers. In the great Protestant 012., the frag- ment of a fine building (transepts of 6 bays, nave of 4), which has suffered much, is the tomb of Lord Edward Bruce, killed in a duel (1613) with Sir Edw. Sackville (afterwards E. of Dor- set), to fight which they came over from England. (Guardian, Nos. 129, 133.) Steam tramway to (4 m. N W) Tholen (Rte. 48). i 47 m. Roosendaal Junct. Stat. (9000). Rly. E. to (16 m.) Breda (Rte. 18); S. to Antwerp (Rte. 48), Dutch Custom-house. 62 m. Zwaluwe J unct. Stat. (4300). Rly. E. towards Hertogenbosch, com- pleted as far as Waalwijk (Rte. 16); S. to Breda; E. to Moerdijk. Beyond this stat. we reach the rly, *bridge over the Hollandsch Diep, got a mile in length, the entire width of the tidal river being upwards of 1% m. It is in 14 spans, each of 328 ft., with a swing bridge at the S. extremity over a separate channel. Some of the piers are founded on piles and concrete, others rest on cylinders sunk by aid of exhausted air to a depth of 65 to 72 ft. below low water. The roadway is of wrought iron, the upper flange of the lattice girders forming aparabolic curve. It was erected 1868—1871, and cost nearly half a million sterling. - ’71 m. DORDREGHT Junct. Stat. (28,000. Buffet). Rly. E. to Aran and Ni j megen (Rte. 17). Tramwayinto the town. This is one of the oldest towns in Holland, with considerable trade, on an island ofthe Maas. The Groote Kerk (1339), conspi- cuous at a long distance, owing to its tall square tower, consists of a spacious apsidal Gothic choir with radiating chapels, deep transepts, and a nave with double aisles. The roof of the choir and side chapels is decorated with arabesques of early 16th cent. The fine *oah stalls fill four bays of the choir, and are the best of the kind in Holland. They represent Adam and Eve, Scenes from the Apocalypse, 0 2 .. «.1-.. 1 ' w :. l I s. m t ‘ ‘ Calame, &c. ‘20 : '3 ' Death and the Devil, and the entry of ._ Charles V. into Dordrccht (1543—47). ' The sculptured pulpit is of white mar- ble (1756). There are also numerous monuments, and some church plate of massive gold, presented by a Dutch East India merchant. . Within this ch., in 1793, was in- terred Lieut. John Western, R.N., in I the presence of the Duke of York: the Grenadier Guards attending as firing- party. This young officer was killed at Moerdijk, March 21. 6 days pre- i ' viously he had succeeded, while in 3 . , , command of 3 gunboats. each contain- ing 4 12-pounders and 16 men, in compelling a French army 5000 strong to abandon the siege of Willemstad, so that the garrison were enabled next morning to march out and take pos- session of the French camp, guns, and ammunition. The brothers De Witt were also buried here, and the painter Schotel (1838). In the Wijnstraat, which leads down to the river, is a bronze Statue of Ary Schefi‘er, the artist, who was born here (1795); also a Museum containing 0“ ' modern paintings, chiefly works of native artists; e.g. A. Sehqlfcr: Christ Ti on the Mount of Olives; Christus Con- , ~solator, &c.: others by Schotel, Ton i Kate, Kore/dwelt, Gudin, Aehcnbach, Adm. daily, 10 cents. Dort serves as a haven for the gigantic rafts of wood, the produce of the forests of Switzerland and the Schwarzwald, which are brought down ~ ' the Rhine, by crews of from 400 to 500 men each, and are here broken up and sawn into planks by the numerous . windmills. A single ratt sometimes produces 30,0001. A visit to the tim- ber-ponds where the raft-wood is eol- lected, the windmills where it is sawn into planks, and the ship-builders’ yards, will be found interesting. Dort is a favourite resort of artists on account of its quaint picturesqueness. 0n the quay,adjoining the H.Belleorn, is an old gateway (1518) with later domed tower ; and the Mint, in Fore St, has a good doorway. The brother statesmen De Witt were ’ born here; also the painters L‘uyp (1605), and Schalken (1043). Route 1.—D0rdi:eclrt. ' Rotterdam. i Sect. I. The first Assembly of the States of . Holland, held after their revolt from the yoke of Spain, met at Dort in. 1572, and declared the Prince of Orange Stadtholder, Captain-General, and Admiral of Holland. The famous assembly of Protestant divines, known as the Synod of Dort. was held here in 1618—10. It lasted 7 months, during which there were 152 sittings, unprofitably occupied, for the most part, in discussing the knotty question of Predestination and Grace. At the conclusion the pre- sident declared that “its miraculous labours had made hell tremble.” The result of its labours was to declare the Calvinistic doctrine of predestina- tion the orthodox faith, and to con- demn Arminius and his followers as heretics. The following epigram was written in derision of the entire pro- eeedingz— Dordtrechti synodus, nodus; chorus integer, aeger; (‘onventus,ventus; ses~io, stramcn. Amen. Steamer to Rotterdam highly rc- commended, for a study of Dutch scenery and picturesque cral't on the river. Beyond Dordrecht the rly. crosses the S. arm of the Maas on a *fine iron bridge, commanding on the rt. the re- markable view of Dort, which has been painted by Cuyp, Turner, and other artists. The bridge has 2 spans of 287 ft, 2 of 211 ft, and 2 swing bridges 88 ft. long. 70 m. Ysselmonde Stat. (2000) with its turreted castle on the rt. The Mans and its island are now crossed on *lofty bridges, two of whose arches llave a span of nearly [00 yds., atl'ord- ing fine views orer the city, to 33 In. ROTTEBDAM Burrs Stat. (100,000), the most convenient for the traveller’s descent, close to the Ex- change (D. 5). L‘ab to the hotels. with luggage. 1 11.; porters, very trouble- Some, pay according to bargain. Rotterdam, the second city of Hol- land in population and commerce, lies on the rt. bank of the Mass, here 1 Referenc Harmonic ' , . {3 came: row3 mu"." 'f ‘ Pasiombe qumanlsllfiwam V ' Socidy NayalMuseum . ‘ — ‘ hauls ‘_ (Miss~ mu} Smd'flogendmp ,, ,V ,, Erasmus .. Churches \ .‘anmwe (GWKzrlcY. 15W” 1 ~- :£stc}1 . Preslzytaian ‘Iggstzr Jews nagm‘ mg _, RgilwajStation V“ : , . ' = 1 j . f , , UNUUUDUGP’ mb‘w munwonwnbmmmmn Db mum: ccbbcccnw U‘wéU'Q‘U‘W-PU‘ move» »w+w9w+k+¢>wow‘ ROWE m m Omrofglfilg l p——-~-——- A— ——4 9‘99 535 ,NQU‘ nirg‘g‘mmp'gymp A5. l E 4. 'fas‘abfl” 1 ') u .Londvn- John AWurmy Alberruuie Street. Holland. crossed by two high Bridges, and is distant about 18 m. from the sea. It is the chief port of the Netherlands. The shipping is three times the ton- nage of that of Amsterdam, and ex- ceeds that of any other port of Hol- land. It is built in the form of a triangle, one side of which rests on the Maas. The three principal canals, called Leuve, ()ude, and Nieuwe Havens (harbours), open into the Maas, and communicate with the various canals which intersect the town; the tide rises commonly 10 or 12 feet. The communication between dif- ferent parts of the town is maintained by a great number of handsome iron bridges. The canals serve as docks, being deep enough to admit vessels of large burden close to the houses and magazines of their owners. Its ready access to the sea gives Rotterdam a great advantage as a port; and since the separation from Belgium it has rapidly risen in Wealth and population. Indeed, Rotterdam and Hamburg now form the great inlets and outlets of Germany, as Antwerp does of Italy, by reason of its direct communication with the St. Gothard rly. The foreign commerccof Rotterdam chiefly depends on the connection with Java, Suma- tra, 1&c., and that trade at present em- ploys nearly 200 of the finest class of merchant-ships. The iron-trade with Bilbao is considerable, and the export of cheese, butter, vegetables, and cat- tle, gives employment to a large pro- portion of the agricultural classes. Much corn is bronghtdown the Rhine from the interior of Germany, mostly for reshipment to England. A stranger who has never seen a Dutch town will be struck with the novel and picturesque combination of water, bridges, trees, and shipping in the heart of a city. He will remark the quaint buildings,with gables facing the street, and often overhanging the foundation more than a foot; the canals traversed by innumerable- drawbridges constantly opening to allow the pas- sage of vessels; the w0oden sabots of the peasants; the brass milk-pails, glistening like polished armour; the little mirror fastened before the win- . Route 1.'—,-Rotterdaaz. 21f dow of every house (§ .14:); and the rude busts of Turks’ or Moors’ heads in front of the druggists’ shops, called, from their open mouths, Gapcrs. An enormous dyke or dam, erected at the junction of a small stream called the Rotte with the Maas, whence comes the name . Rotterdam, passes through the centre of the town. The Hoogstraat (High Street) stands upon this dam ; and the newest part of the town is built on the ground extending. between it and the Boompjes, and gained from the Maas since the dam was erected. ' The handsome block of buildings at the W. end of the town, Weste or li'illcms Katie, stands on what was a mudbank before 1850, while at the E. end, beyond the new bridge, a piece of ‘ ground taken from the river is occu? pied by the Rhenish Railway Station and other buildings. Here also is the wharf for inland steamers, The dock for largs ships is at the 1V. end, near the park. The bronze Statue of Erasmus, who was a native of Rotterdam, stands on a wide bridge over a. canal, which serves the purposes of a market-place, called the Groote Markt, near the . centre of the town. Erasmus’s real name was Geracrd Geraerds, which, in accordance with the custom of the learned of his time, he Latinized into Desiderius Erasmus. The house in which he was born (1467), now a shop, , No.3, Wyde Kerk-Strand, bears a small statue of the scholar. ' The Church of St. Lawrence, Groote Kerk, contains the monuments of the Admirals de Witt and Cortenaer, and Rear—Admiral van Brakel, all erected to their memory by the States-General, and bearing epitaphs in Latin Verse. The very fine *Organ, finished about 1840, rivals that of Haarlem, the largest metal pipe beiu g 17 inches in diameter, the number of stops 90, and of pipes 6500. The organist will play at any time in consideration of a fee of 10 guilders for the hour. The Tower affords an extensive view of the country around, which in the direction of Delft and Gouda, as in 22 many other parts of Holland, is almost equally divided between land and water. It is intersected in all direc- tions by canals and trees in straight avenues, its flat surface dotted with farm and summer-houses; while an occasional steeple and a number of \windmills, with the towers of Delft, Hague, Utrecht, and Amsterdam in the far distance, alone break the level line of a Dutch horizon. (Sacristan 250., tower 500.) The Exchange is a plain square stone building, roofed in with glass sup- ported on iron columns, where business is transacted daily at 1. Scientific persons visiting Rotterdam should see the collection of philosophical instru- ments, and the library, in the room above it. Here also is a Museum of Industry and Art, containing old fur- niture, weapons, Sze. (Adm. 250.) The Stadhuis or Town. Hall is a modern building with a classical portico. N. of it, in the Nieuwe Markt (C. 5), is a handsome Fountain, erected in 1874, to commemorate the independence of Holland. . A fine bronze monument, by Joseph Geefs, of Gysbert Karel van Hogen- dorp, the great free-trader, born here in 1762, died at the Hague in 1834, stands in’ the Hogendorf Plein, just behind the Museum. The * Museum (D. 4), founded by Jacob Otto Boymans} (lSi'T), contains about 400 paintings, and is open every day except Monday. On Sun- days, 11 to 4, and Wednesdays, 10 to 4, 5 cents; other days, 10 to 4, 25 cents. Excellent catalogue in Dutch, 50 cents, in French, 75 cents. The collection is of a very high artistic interest, and ranks third among the great galleries of Holland. The oflicial catalogue indicates by an asterisk the pictures saved from the disastrous fire of 186%, in which up- wards of 300 invaluable paintings, besides drawings and other works of art, were consumed. On the ground floor, to the 1., are various drawings exhibited under glass, the remainder being shown on Route 1.;Rotterdam. I . ’Sect. ‘ Tues, Thurs, and Sat, for an ad- ditional fee of 250. Among those always visible are a small Crucifixion, by Rubens, and a head by Goltzius. A relief of the Adoration, in coloured alabaster, is also worth attention. Catalogue, in Dutch only, 50 cents. The room on the right contains por- traits, of no interest to the English visitor. The Library may be seen on application. Ascending the stairs, the pictures are arranged in six well-lighted rooms, two of which are devoted prin~ cipally to modern paintings. The following selected list is arranged in alphabetical order of painters’ names :— Aeercamp—River scene. Backhuyzen.——« Large stormy sea; smaller sea piece. Beerstmten.—Old Town Hall of Amsterdam, burnt in 1652; Town harbour. ' Berchem.—-Grotto. Berckheyde, G. —Walls of Cologne; Berclrheyde, J.—-Old Exchange at Amsterdam. . Berghen.———-Landscape and animals. Bol.——*Portrait of a woman; *Por- trait of a boy, 10 years old. Both—Italian landscape. BraIrenburg.——Interior, with nume- rons figures. Breughcl.——Two village scenes. Camphuysen.———Peasants at an inn. Cuyp, A.—*Two grey horses in stable; hare; cock and hen; *river bank at dawn; mussel-eater. Cuyp, J. G.——'l‘hree children; man's portrait; woman’s portrait. De ”Vite—Fish market at Amster- dam. Dirk ran Santroort.—*Shepherd boy and girl. \ Diirer.—Portrait of Erasmus. Eeckhout.—-Ruth and 13an ; Portrait of a child. Eglon van der N’er.—Guitar-pluyer.7 Esm'as van de Velde.-—*Man on horseback. Everdingen.—-—Cataract, and Scene in Norway. . Fabritz'us.-—*Portrait. Hinds—Brother and sister in a landscape. _. \Ho‘llan‘d.‘ Route 1‘.—Rotterdam . Gash—Woman making cakes, and ‘ Village inn. Goyen.—’*River scene. _ Hula—Portrait of an elderly man. Heda.—Wine-glass, oysters, and lemon. Heem.—-Still life. _ Heusch.——*Landscape. Hobbema. —— Wooded landscape ; *smaller landscape, with still water. Hondecoeter.—Cock and fowls. t Honthorst.—Soldier smoking. Hulst.—Two good views. Kessel. —- View in Amsterdam ; *Country near Haarlem. Kom'nck, P.-—Landscape. K om'nck, Solomon.——* Gold-weigher. Koning. — Landscape with sheep and cattle. Leeuw.~—Landscape with animals. Lingelbach.—-Italian peasants in landscape. Looten.—Forest. Macs, N. —-Lady and gentleman, with child; Wm. Nieupoort, with his wife and little girl. Man.——-Interior. Mutton—S. Jerome. Metsu.-—Portrait of Ecclesiastic. Mierevelt.—Portrait of Oldenbarne- velt. Mierz's.——-Fishmonger. Mignon—Fruit and insects. Molenacr, J. M .——Rustic gaiety, and ‘ Clarinet player. Molenaer, N.—Bleaching-field. Moreelse.——-Vertumnus and Pomona. Moritz—Stable. Moucheron.——Hilly landscape. Murant.—Farm. Musscher.—Children. Mytens.——-Portrait of Jacob Cats and his cousin Cornelia. Ochtercelt.—*Light refreshment. 0rlcy.——Crucifixion. Ostade, Adrian—*Lawyer in his study. Ostade, Isaak—Village inn; un- usually large. Pencz.—S. Jerome. Pynacker.—Lake, with rocks and figures. \ Rachel Ruyach.~—-Fiowers. Rembrandt—Union of the Country ; a sketch in brown monochrome, wholly unintelligible and uninteresting. ‘ Museum ; Paintings- '23.‘ Ruisdael, Isaac—Landscape with sheep and cattle. , Ruisdael, J acob.—* Cornfield ; sand y road; fish-market at Amsterdam. Ruisdael, Solomon.—Dordrecht and the river. Saenredam.—*S. Mary’s at Utrecht, destroyed in 1816. Saftleven.—View on the Rhine. Schoorl. — Boy’s portrait : Virgin and Child. Slingeland.——Eortrait, with page. Snyders.—Boar attacked by dogs. Sorgh.——Interior; Rotterdam mar- ket. Steen.—*Feast of St. Nicholas; and Quack surgeon. Stork.—*Dutch harbour in winter. Tempel. — Portrait of an admiral and his wife. / Tilborch.—Large family group. Unknown Masters.— 400, 399. *Portraits. 396. *Erasmus. . 407. Virgin and Child. 408. Crucifixion. 4:14. Quack. 415. Dentist. Van der Helst. — *Portrait of D. Bernard, 1659; Lady and gentleman in a garden, 1654; Protestant minis- ter, 1638 ; Lady in black velvet, 1646. Van der Meer (of Haarlem).—View of Noordwyk. Van der Nana—Moonlight effects. Van der Poel.-House on fire. Van de Velde, Adrian—*Horse- shoeing; Landscape with animals. Van de Velde (the Younger).— Port of Texel. Van Dyck.—Sketch for portraits of Charles I. and his family ; Virgin, adored by Saints. Van Vliet.—Old man in Eastern costume. Verboom.—Sportsmen at sunset. ' Verschuier.——Rotterdam, from the river. Wants—Swan, with other birds. Willacrts.—Mouth of the Meuse, near Brielle. Wouwcrman, J. — Sketch on the,’ Dunes. . Wouwerman, Ph. - Soldiers plui - dering. Zeeman.—Sea piece. ' ‘ Sat. 50. 24' . Among the Modern Pictures, the best are 2— 7 ‘ : Ary Schefl‘er.——Count Eberhard (1) rebuking his Son, and (2) standing beside his dead body. . Baclrhuyzen.—Canal at the Hague. Greuze.—Sketch of a happy mo- ther; child’s portrait. ' Klinkenberg.—View of the Vyver- berg at the Hague. Koeldcoek.~—Skating scene. Macs—Two boys. . Molyn.-—Callot the painter among Bohemians. Ouv-rieZ—View of Dinant; wharf of Rotterdam. Schelfhout.~Skating scene. TousSai/nt.*Young draughtsman. Versiecgh.——Old woman spinning. Old On the N. side of the Nieuwe Haven _ is the Museum of History and Art, containing objects chiefly of the 17th century. The *Ethnological and Naval Mu- seum, in the 01d Yacht-Club house (F. 2), contains a most interesting collection of objects from Java, Brazil, and various parts of India, illustrat- ing the life and occupation of the natives. Here is a model of a house in Sumatra, with a large amount of drapery from the same country; a life-size group of Java peasants in their cottage, and a small model of a marketplace; an Amazon chief in costume; curiosities from Congo, Li- beria and Zulu-land; numerous models of ships, with a longitudinal and transverse section of a Dutch man-of- ‘ 'war, showing the interior ; an Esqui- maux canoe, or kaiak; and asplendid assortment of Persian and Indian armour, metal-work, silks, woollen fabrics, and embroideries. (Adm. 10 ,to 4; on Sun., Tues, and holidays, 10e.; Mon. and Fri., 250.; Wed. and Director, Mr. A. W. Buning, 25, Willemskade.) The Zoological Garden (B. 3) is well stocked with animals, and has an extensive Aviary, arranged on a re- markably original plan. Adm. 500. Good restaurant in the pleasant grounds. Route 1 .eRottei‘dam. Sect. 1.. In the suburbs are many plaeesot‘ entertainment, with Gardens, not un- like tea-gardcns in England, except that some of them are frequented by the higher classes of citizens, and par- take of the nature of a club. Here are found billiard and ball-rooms, skittle- grounds, refreshments of various kinds, and much smoking. At the W. end of the town (E. 1) is the Park—beautifully laid-out grounds, much frequented by the public during the summer. On Wed— nesday evenings military concerts, as also on Sundays at 1, when the ladies of Rotterdam come forth, in all the glories of dress, and parade. Within this park is a statue, in white marble, of the Dutch popular poet—the poets merchant—Tellons. The two *Bridges for Rail and Road cross the Maas to Fijenoord, where are extensive steam shipyards and build- ing-docks employing 1000 men. The island of Ijssclmondc, which here forms the 1. bank of the Maas, though . but 15 m. long by 7 wide, is said to be surrounded and intersected by dykes measuring 200 m. The island in the Maas, traversed by the bridges, is Noodereiland, in the centre of which, on the Hotl'inann Plein, is a monument to the engineer Stieltjes (1878). From Feyenoord the Binnen-haven and Spoorweg-haven may be crossed on drawbridges 1000 and 1300 yds. long, and the city may be regained by steam ferry (every half-hour, 5c.). The *Boompjes (E. 4, 5) is always lined with busy steamers, and forms a lively and attractive promenade. Rotterdam was the native place of Adrian van der Werft‘, 1050, and Zaehtleeven, 1000, painters ; of James Crofts, Duke of Monmouth, son of Charles II. by Lucy Waters, 1649, and ot' Grinling Gibbons, wood-carver. ’l‘ravellers should drink natural Selzer water, and avoid the water of the Maas. , (See § 5.) The annual Kermis, or fair of Rot- terdam, begins on the second Monday in August, and lasts a week. The suburb of Delfshaven on the Holland. \V. (12,000), formerly an independent town, is now officially united to Rot- terdam. llerc was born the gallant admiral I’iel IIeiiL (d. “329), who in the Eighty Years’ \Var took from the Spaniards their Silver Fleet, valued at a million sterling. A statue was erected to his menu'u'y in 1870. STEAMBOATS leave Rotterdam daily in summer at 7 A.M., for Arnhem (2. ll. 15 c.), and Nijincgen (2 fl.). Time, about 8 hrs. The Ii’hine, flowing out of Germany into Holland, descends in an un- divided stream as far as the point of the Delta (the Insula Batavorum of the Romans). At a place called Pan- ncrden it splits into two branches. From this division ofits stream, Virgil applies the epithet Limmu’s to the Rhine (ZEn. viii.727). The left-hand branch, called the Waal or Vahal, directing its course \V., passes Nijme- gemjoins the Meusc, and, in conjunc- tion with it, assumes the name of Merwe. The other branch, which, afterthe first separation, retains the name of Rhine, turns northward; % a league above Arnhem it throws out an arm called Ijssel, known to the ancients as Fossa Drusz‘, because the canal was made by Drusus in the reign of Augus- tus: this falls into the Zuider Zee after passing Zutphen, Deventer, and Knmpen, and is frequently mentioned by Tacitus and Suetonius. The river after this continues on past Arnhem to Wijk by Duurstede, and there again divides, throwing otf to the 1. an arm called the Lek, which falls into the Mans a little above Rotterdam. The other arm, still retaining the original name of Rhine, after this separation, divides for the last time at 'l'trecht; the ott'set is called the Yecht, and lion's into the Zuidcr Zec. The old Rhine, the sole remnant of the once mighty river which carries its name to the sea, assumes the appearance of a canal, and, after passing sluggishly the town of Leiden, enters the ocean through the sluice-gates of Katwrjk (Rte. 3). Route 2.——Lond0n t0 Rotterdam: Brielle. * 2 ROUTE 2. LONDON TO ROTTERDAM, (A) BY HAR- wrcn, OR (B) BY THE THAMES. (A.) From Liverpool—st. daily, ex— cept on Sundays, at 8 P.M., due at Rotterdam ‘9 AJI. New and fine steamers. (15.) Railway from Fcnehurch-st., at It) on “1d, Thurs. and Sat. Netherlands Company’s steamer from Blackwall at noon, reaching Rotter- dam at 6 next morning. Fares, 17s. or Ilsa; return, within 30 days, 273., or 17.9. ' All sea-routes to Rotterdam from the N. or W. unite at the month of the Nietewe Waterway, a eanalizcd arm of the Maas, which avoids the old pas— sage by Brielle. No place of interest is passed on the river, and the voyage is commonly made in the dark. The Maas (French Meusc) is the estuary through which a large portion of the combined waters of the'Rhine and Meusc find an outlet to the sea 18 m. below Rotterdam. The bar at its mouth, once difficult to pass at_low water, has been cut through, so that steamers now cross at any time of the tide. Brielle (4300) a fortified town on the 1. bank of the Maas near its mouth, was the birthplace of Admiral Tromp, and is historically remarkable as the first place which fell into the hands of the Dutch; having been taken from the Spaniards in 1572, by a bold attack of the Water Gueux, under the command of William de la Merck. It may thus be considered as the nucleus of the Dutch United Pro- vinces. This exploit was the first in- stance ot open resistance to the power of Philip II. of Spain. and led the 26 _ Route 3.—Rotterdam to Amsterdam: Delft. way for the liberation of the country from the Spanish yoke. In 1585 Brielle was delivered up to Queen Elizabeth as one of the cautionary towns, and remained in the hands of the English till 1616. 7 m. S. of Brielle, at the S. end of the Canal of Voorden, is Hellevoet- sluis, with two great docks and a Royal arsenal. It is the naval station of the Dutch on the S., being to Rotterdam and the mouths of the Rhine and Mass what the Helder is to Amsterdam and the Zuider Zoe. William III. embarked here for Eng- land in 1688. The Maas in front of Rotterdam is from 30 to 40 feet deep, so that the largest vessels approach close to the houses, and the steamers land their passengers on one of the fine quays thrilling the frontage of the river. The first of these is the \Villeins or Weste-kadc (West-quay) ; the second, the Old Quay, is called the. Boompjes (from a row of young ehns, bomnpje signifying little. tree), and the third, the ()oster—kade (East-quay)—thc three extending upwards of 2 in. Some of the best houses are situated on these handsome quays. Steamers ply also to Rotterdam from. Hull in 17 hrs. 4 times a week, fare, ll. ; from Leith in 36 hrs. twice weekly, fare, 22s. 6d. or 113. Gd; from Grimsby, fare ll. (return ll. 10s.); from Liverpool ; and from Newcastle- on-Tyno. ROUTE 3. ROTTERDAM T0 AMSTERDAM. nr DELFI‘. run more, LEIDEN, AND uAAnLnn (RAILROAD) Distance, 5511).; trains almost every hour. in 1% 102:;- hrs. Sect. I. This Rly. (Hollandsohe Spoorweg; Stations at the Exchange and outside the Delft gate) was the first con- structed in Holland (1839). It is so narrow that passengers are warned against putting their heads out of the windows in passing under bridges. The old road to Delft is pleasantly varied with villas and gardens, and runs for a considerable distance alon g- side of the canal, as indeed is the case with most roads in Holland. Innnediately beyond the stat, on the 1.. lies Delfshaven (soc end of Rio. 1). 3 1n. Schiedam (25,000). The town is on the Schie to the 1., surrounded by windmills, and enveloped in ever~ lasting smoke, rising from its 300 distilleries of gin (jcnew r, to. juniper). Though of little interest to the pass- ing traveller. Schiedam is one of the wealthiest cities of Holland, owing to the great extent of its shipping and manufactories. About t0,000 pigs, as well as the cattle hereabouts, are fed on the refuse of the grain from the distilleries, which accounts for the tabs placed in the fields. [6 in. W. (omnibus frequently) is V1aardingen(8500), the head-quarters of the Dutch Herring Fishery, for which it fits out annually some 80 vessels. On the 10th or 11th of June the ofiiccrs employed in the herring fieet repair to the Stadhuis, and take an oath to obey the laws of the fishery ; on the 14th they hoist their flags, and go to church to pray for a prosperous season; on the 15111 they set sail. The fishery lasts from June 2 till October 30. The fish first caught are sent off in swift yachts to Holland, where their arrival is a“ aited with the most. anxious expectation. Watchmen are set on Vlaardiugcn steeple to look out for the vessels; the cargo usually sells for 800 llorins, and the first kegs of herrings are sent to the King of Holland and his ministers. 10 m. DELFT (27,000) also on the Schie. This town, “the parent of pottery," has 1)! en supplanted, even Holland. 4 ‘Route 3.—+Delft: in Holland itself, in its chief article of produce, to which it has given a name (Delft-ware, in Dutch plateel),by the superior manufactures of England, and the improved taste introduced by Wedgwood in the making of pottery. Of late years, however, the trade has been revived, and a successful imita- tion of the old Delft-ware is produced at the manufactory of M. J. Thooft. 'The Townhall (Stadhuis), in a fine market~place, is a modernised build- ing of 1618, in stone. In the centre of the roof rises a square Gothic tower. There is a collection of pictures, in- cluding some historic portraits by Miercveldt, of William Maurice, and other members of the House of Orange- Nassau; also a group of 36 riflemen (arquebusiers), and some corporation groups by other local artists. The New Church (1381) in the great square contains the costly *JlIonument, clustered with columns and rich in marble, but in very bad taste, erected by the United Provinces to the me- mory of William 1., Prince of Orange, who was murdered at Delft, 10th July, 1584. His robed efiigy, in marble, reclines upon the tomb; and at his feet is the figure of his favourite little dog, whose affection saved his master’s life from the midnight attack of some Spanish assassins, who had planned to murder him while asleep in his camp, near Mcchlin in 1572. The Spaniards, advanced stealthily under cover of the darkness, had nearly reached the tent, when the vigilance of the dog, whose instinct appears to have told him that they were enemies, detected their approach. He instantly jumped upon the bed, and, by barking violently and tearing off the clothes with his teeth and feet, roused his master in time to enable him to escape. There is a second and better statue of the prince under the arch at the head of the tomb, seated, in full armour. . Beneath is the burial-vault of the pre- sent royal family of the Netherlands. Here also is the simple monument of IIL'GO Gaorms (de Groot), who was born at Delft April 10, 1583, and is interred in this church. Fine organ, and Chimes. I Townhall ; Churches. 27 In the Old Church (Oude Kerk), which is a fine specimen of Dutch Gothic, and hasaleaning tower, is the monument of Admiral Tromp, the ,' veteran of 32 sea-fights, who conquered the English fleet, under Blake, in the Downs (1652), and afterwards sailed through the Channel with a broom at his mast-head, to signify that he had swept the sea of the English. He wa‘s killed at last (1653), in an engagement, represented in relief on his tomb, be- tween Scheveningen and the mouth of the Maas, in which the English. were victorious. “ His epitaph is concluded thus :—‘ Tandem bello Anglico tantum non victor, eerte invictus, vivere et vincere desiit.’ There is a sea-fight cut in marble, with the smoke the best expressed that ever I saw in my life.” -——Pepys. In the same church are buried Piet Hein, who from a fisher- lad of Delfshaven rose to be admiral, captured the Spanish: silver fleet, and died for his country; and A. van Leeuwenhoek, who first‘ discovered microscopic animals, also a native of Delft. The Grand Pensionary Hein- sius, the friend and fellow-councillor of Marlborough and Eugene, was also born here. The house in which William Prince of Orange (born in 1533, at Dillenburg in Nassau) was assassinated, is nearly opposite to the W. end of the Old Church; it is called the Prinsenhof, originally the Convent of St. Agatha, and is now a barrack. After crossing the court, a small door on the rt. leads to the spot where the murder was committed. The identical staircase which the prince was aboutto ascend after dinner, and the passage where the murderer Balthazar Gerhard stood —so near to his victim that the pistol must almost have touched his body—— will assuredly be looked upon with in— terest by every traveller. An inscrip- tion, on a stone let into the wall, re- cords the event; and 3 holes, bored in another stone below it, pass for the actual marks of the poisoned bullets which killed him. He expired in the arms of his sister, and his wife (daughter of Coligny, who had been murdered at the St. Bartholomew 28. massacre). The assassin was a native of Burgundy, and an avowed agent of VPhilip II. of Spain and of the Prince of Parma, Alex. Farnese. William had escaped 8 successive murderous at- tempts, all coming from the same quarter. (Sec Motley’s ‘ United Nethérlands.’) The modern church of S. Hippolyt, with a peculiar spire, , is an interesting work of the eminent Dutch architect, Dr. Cuypers. On an island surrounded by canals, nearthe entrance of the town, is the State Arsenal. an extensive and gloomy building, looking like a fortress, and ornamented with the arms of the ancient Dutch republic. It was origin- ally the Dutch East India House. Close by, to the N., is the Hospital, containing some important anatomical paintings by Mierevelt. ~ Further \V., near the Prinsenhof, is ' the Government Polytechnic 'School, where the engineers of the Water Staat (§ 8) receive instruction in all matters relating to the dykes, dams, and drain- age of Holland—an important branch of the national service. Here also is a. valuable *collection of ship-models, naval machinery, &c. It is interesting to remember that from this small port set forth The ‘Pilgrim Fathers, 1620, on board the “ May Flower ” and “ Speedwell,” to found the settlement of New Eng- land. Okey, Barkstead, and Corbet, the regicides, settled at Delft. They were seized in an alehouse here by Sir George Downing, the English envoy at the Hague, sent to London, and executed at Tyburn. Between Delft and the Hague (5 m.) runs a tramway. The canal from Delft to Leiden is by many considered as being the Fossa Cor-bulonis, and pro- bably a part of the ancient excavation of the Roman Corbulo made to unite the Rhine and the Mans. (See Tacitus, Annal., ll, 20.) The country is even more thickly spread over with cottages, villas, coun- try seats, and gardens (§ 12) than on the other side of Delft. On the left Route 3.—lee Hague; ‘ Sect. I. of the canal and high road, but on the right of the railroad, appears the spire ot' the church of Ryswyk, near which Treaties of Peace were signed (1697) between the Empire, England, France, Holland, and Spain, in a house of the Prince of Orange, removed (1783); its site is marked by an obelisk. 15 m. THE HAGUE Stat. (F. 3) on the S. side of the town (La Haye, in French ; ’s Gravenhage in Dutch; der Haag in German). Omnibus to the principal hotels. Cal), 500. ; heavy luggage, 10c. Tra- vellers with small hand-luggage may take the tramway. INDEX. mar Archives, Office of the . . . . 35 Bazaar . . . . . . . 34 Binnenhof . . . . . . 2 Bosch . . . . . . . 34 Buitenhof . . . . . . 2 Colus, collection of . . . . 32 De Witt, house of . . . . 3( Duke of Saxen Weimar, monument to . 34 English Church . . . . . 34 Finance Office . . . . . 34 Fish Market . . . . . _ 32 Gevangenpoort . . . . . 2! Gothic Hall . . . . . . 2t Groote Kerk . . . . . 3‘ Iluis ten Bosch . . . 84 Mauritshuis . . 3‘ Municipal Museum 3‘ National Monument . . . 3: Navy Office . . . . . . 3. Nieuwe Kerk . . . . . 3 Oldenbarneveld, house of 2 Oval Plcin . . . 3 Palace, Royal . . 3 Picture Galler ' . . 3 Prime Hendrik Museum 3 Royal Library 3 Spinoza, house of . :5 S. J runes, Ch. of l Siadhuis . 3 State Prisons . E Steengraclit Geller; 5 Theatre. . . 1 Vijverberg . . 1 Westreenen Museum . . . ' \\'illiam I., statues of . . . . 1 William 11., monument to William 11., statue of . . . . . Zoological and Botanical Garden . .’ : Though long the residence of tl Stadtholders, and now of the King the Netherlands, up to the beginnii of tl.e present century the Hag: . ,mfm‘tyi wt 1 “ .vmnx‘ ‘ Mu. wufi :é't=§-.m fl vitfl'axgmi". ywu‘ whim; ' Q .. x , 4 , " lirgsfirwv'f' :4. ~.',,\:\:.~1~5 9 file-)5 a 2311;112:579 A «mix '\ T : may “4-“. _ - . -_ V . ,; . _ >r" .. lv‘SH‘U. . v5\ d: ; _ xmy'TFL " Jig“; {14% 3‘53. ,5 1- A .0 wt» r: l z‘xv m "3012:? Mr!" ' ""‘9 "ya—w,“ u wa..-...u-...M'__ THE HAGUE for Murray's Handbook Quarur of‘ a. Milo Reference Post Of'fine Theatre Hoog Ga‘egtshof‘ States General, ggg,5meae. L Ge vmw oort MIT 0?;«3 Nahoyal 11er- Drfaunmztis } . f m e a Day! Mudnip :11 M43 cum 4 In mg: L“ A .o :3 issm wan Malirebaan (r — ‘ 11' 11nd r ound/ ‘ _ , ' ‘ ‘ _ wwwtr'm'm’m"w }. BPSmngraphz's huusa Nieuwc Societal: ' u A " Kings Palace aats Verber , _L ,‘ ‘ Library "=“I" ,~' ‘~ ‘ SmflmaflMMmu/ (ll/Bowls bazaar National Monunwnz Sumo? Wdhmn' ‘ I. ‘ , ., William 1.} ' (an: 811wa ~ William H. M D. Charles Bernhard. Churches Groom Kerk C. Niame ,. French ., Jansen/wt. .. c .w awcwuoo .65 (m w wwwwww er- fl nglish Epis.’ HoF—Kapel Evgb'sh 0|. Pficwoam— ww¢rww~ww 57° gorggungficuaw CA Hotels 1 Bellevun 2 dal'Eurapa 3 Omit-DOM 4 duMaredmlTummn D. 3. : ' 5 GroouKm'Ja'shor . . _ . V' _ J _. - - .7 ‘5‘ .1 ' / . I 6 Tww Steflab .~ ‘ ' L _ , ' _ 7 . ' ' ' ’ * K’ ‘ Q7 fleshevenmgw“ 7 HdesIndes ‘ - . , V 7 x ‘ . .‘ I /:u(1rovy-e s f!)- 1: 8 1117014132 “ ‘. . «- ’ J . 4 5 8 Inmlnn . In]... linnnv thmn/n-ll- Cm»! ]. Holland. \ ranked only as a village,‘because it had neither corporation nor walls, and did not return members to the States- General; King Louis Bonaparte, how- ever, conferred on it the privileges of ' a city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise to commerce or manufactures; ’this to the residence of a court, the presence of the Government and States-General, and the abode of foreign ministers. Its origin may be traced to a hunting-scat of the Count of Holland, built here in 1250; and .its name to the Count’s Hedge (’s Gra- ven Huge) surrounding the park. Since 1850 this city has made im- mense progress in extent, comfort, and luxury, and now contains 135,000 in- habitants, of whom nearly one-third are Rom. Catll. Canals have been drained and converted into handsome streets; numerous stately mansions and villas have been erected, and gardens and parks laid out with groves of tall trees. The size and splendour of the private houses bear evidence to a great number of amassed fortunes.’ The principal streets are lined with trees and bordered with fine houses. The Vijverberg (fish-pond hill) is a square or place, with avenues of trees forming a shady promenade by the side of a piece of water from which it takes its name. In Holland alone would so gentle a rise be dignified with the name of a hill. Fresh water is supplied to this pond by steam- pumps. The slight current thus pro- duced in the canal enables them to discharge into the Maas at Rotter- dam. Near the centre of the town, on the edge of the Vijver pond is the old Chateau of the Counts of Holland, founded 14th centy., now much mo- dernized, extending over two courts, the (Binncn (Inner), and Buiten (Outer), Hot. In the first, which is entered through two archways from the side of the Plein, is the Gothic Hall, the oldest building in the Hague, long used as a court of jus- tice. It resembles an early-pointed Route 3.———le8 Hague .' Binnenhof. '29 chapel, and serves as a depository of ‘ thc'Home Office archives. ,The roof ‘ of wood is supported on slim shafts of cast iron. It possesses an historical interest; since, upon a scafi'olding erected op- posite to the door, on a level with the top of the steps, the virtuous and in- flexible Oldenbarnevcld, Grand Pen~ sionary of Holland, was beheaded in 1618, aged 72. The people beheld his execution with tears; and many came to gather the sand wet with his blood in phials. Several of the public offices are situv ated in the Binnenhof ; here also the Chambers of the States-General or Dutch Parliament hold their sittings. The public are freely admitted to the debates of both Chambers. In the centre of the Binnenhof is a monu- ment of open work in gilded bronze to the memory of William II., King of Holland (1227—56), crowned with a statuettc. Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) and the Vijverberg is an old gate-tower (restored), called Gavan- genpoort (prison-gate), remarkable as, the place in which Cornelius de \Vitt was confined (1672) on a false charge of conspiriu g to assassinate the Prince of Orange. The populace, incited to fury by the calumnies circulated against him and his brother John, the Grand Pcnsionary, broke into the prison at a moment when the latter had been enticed hither by a report that his brother’s life was in danger, dragged them forth, and literally tore them to pieces. A small stone in the pavement marks the Spot where this occurred. The De Witts are buried in the Nieuwe Kerk. The State Prisons (Adm. free, daily 10 to 4; on Sun. 12.30 to 4), besides the in- terest they possess from historical associations, contain a curious collec- tion of instruments of torture, man of them extremely cruel. Here may be seen a .pillory for bad women; a iiogging‘bloek, where the last punish- ment took place in 18-18; and the condemned cell. in which criminals were starved to death at an open win- idow overlooking the kitchen. A few yards from the spot where the De Witts were murdered, in the Kneuterdijk, opposite the Hertogstraatje, stands the modest mansion of the Grand Pen— stonary De Witt, who, though the first citizen of the richest country in the World, and perhaps the profoundest statesman in Europe, baffling the encroaching policy of France, and frightening London with the roar of his cannon in the Thames, was never seen in public but in the most homely dress, kept only a single servant, and rarely made use of a coach. Olden- barneveld lived in a house which now forms part of the hotel of the Minister of Finance in the Lange Voorhout. The *Prcruan GALLERY (0. 3) is situated in the building called Maurits Huis, from Prince Maurice of Nassau, Governor of Brazil, and afterwards of .Cleve, by whom it was built. It is open daily from 10 to 4 (winter 10 ‘ to 3). Sun. 12.30 to 3 org}. Catalogue '50 cents. The most remarkable pictures are arranged in alphabetical order in the following list. Aelst (W. van): 3. Still-life. Bakhuisen: 6. *Dutch port. Behem: 232. Portrait of the young Maximilian of Austria. Berchem: 10. Boar-hunt; 11. Ita~ lian ford. 301: 15. Portrait of Adm. de Ruy- ter. . Both: Two Italian landscapes. Breughel: Paradise, with figures of Adam and Eve finely painted by Rubens. Ouyp: Portrait of an Inspector of fisheries. Don: *Young seamstress, and girl with a lamp. ‘Drooch Sloot: Kermesse, and river scene. Dusart: Tavern interior. Eeckhout: Adoration of the Magi. Hackaert: Landscape. Hagen (J. van der) : 36. View near Arnhem. Hals: Portrait of Jacob Pietersz and his wife. Hanneman : Family group. Route \3.—-The_Hague : Picture Gallery. '. Sect. I. Heem (David de): 39. Flowers and fruit. ‘ Heemskerk: Adoration of the shep- herds and of the Magi ; two important but disagreeable pictures. Heyde (J. van der): *Street in a town. Eelst (Bart. van der): Portrait of Paul Potter. Heusch (W. de) : Two minute Italian landscapes. Hoeckgeest (a rare master): The tomb of William Prince of Orange in the New Church, Delft, two pictures, “painted in the manner of De Witt, but I think better.”——R. Holbein: 238. A small portrait of a man with a hawk; on it is written Robert Cheeseman, 1533. “Admi- rable for its truth and precision, and extremely well coloured. The blue flat ground behind the head gives a general effect of dryness to the pic- ture: had the ground been varied, and made to harmonise more with the figure, this portrait might have stood in competition with the works of the best portrait painters.”——R.; 237. Per- trait of a woman, attributed also to Lucas Cranach; 240. Portrait of a man. Hondekoeter: Four admirable spe- cimens, representing birds and game alive and dead. Hoogstraeten: Young lady reading a letter. Huchtenburgh: Portrait of Prince Eugéne; Cavalry charge; *Attack from an ambush. Huysum (Jan van) : Fruit and flower pieces. Jardin (Karel du) : 58. Italian waterfall; 59. “'omen spinning. Jordaens: 209. Faun and Nymph, finely coloured. Keyser: *Four Burgomasters of Amsterdam deliberating on the recep- tion of Mary de Medici into their city. “A very 'good picture.”——-A 'small full-length of a magistrate in black: excellent. Lingelbach : Departure of Charles II. from Seheveningen for England in 1660. Hay-cart. Macs: Portrait of an old man. , . Meer (J. van der (of Delft) ) : *View of Delft. Holland. Routel3.—-The Hague .- Picture Gallery. Metsn: The Chasseur; *Musical amateurs. Mierevelt: 182. Portrait of William the Silent. Mieris (Frans van): *Boy blow- ing bubbles. “ Dutch gallantry: a man pinching the ear of a dog, which lies on his mistress’s lap.”—~R. Called in the catalogue, The Painter and his Wife. Portrait of a Leiden pro- fessor. Mieris (W. van): *Grocer’s shop. Moni : Lacemaker. Moro (Antonio) : Portrait. Moreelse : 3 fine Portraits. Moucheron: Italian landscape ; and Ambush. Mussoher: His own portrait, with that of his Wife and son. Netseher: His own portrait, with that of his wife and daughter. Ostade (A. van): The exterior and interior of a cottage. Paul Potter: ”Young Bull—his masterpiece, remarkable as one of the few examples in which the artist painted animals as large as life, signed and dated 1647. “There cannot bea greater contrast to a very generalised mode of treatment than that dis- played in the celebrated picture of ‘ The Bull,’ by 1’. Potter, which ap- proaches the nearest to deception of any really fine work of art I have seen. The painter seems to have omitted nothing that he saw in nature which art could represent, and yet its reality is free from any still-life un- pleasantness. The grandeur of the sky, and the beautiful treatment of the distant meadow, show that the painter had the power of seizing the finest characteristics of the large fea- tures of nature, while the exquisite manner in which the beautiful forms of the leaves of a dock, and their colours, compose with one of the legs of the young bull, display as fine an eye for her most intricate beauties.”— C. R. Leslie, RA. This picture was carried to Paris by the French, and has been valued at 50001.; the Dutch government. it is stated, ofl'ered Na- poleon 4 times that amount if he would consent to suffer it to remain ‘ 31 at the Hague.~—-* TheiCow drinking; “ finely painted, remarkable‘ for the strong reflection in the water.”—R.f *Cattle and Pigs in a meadow. ' Rembrandt: ** The Lesson in Anatomy: a surgeon, Professor Tulp, attended by his pupils, proceeding to dissect a dead body. Though an unpleasing subject, it is a most won- derful painting, and one of the artist’s finest works. “ To avoid making it' an object disagreeable to look at, the figure is but just cut at the wrist and ‘ fore-arm. There are 7 other portraits, coloured like nature itself, fresh and highly finished; one of the figures behind has a paper in his hand, on which are written the names of the rest. The dead body is perfectly well drawn (a little fore-shortened), and seems to have been just washed. N 0- thing can be more truly the colour of dead flesh.”—-R. Physicians assert that they can ascertain that it is the . body of a person who died from in: flammation of the lungs. This pic- ture formerly stood in the Anatomy School (Snijkamer) of Amsterdam, but was purchased by the King for 32,000 guilders (2700l.).—*Portrait of the painter, as an oflicer with hat; and feathers; “ for colouring and force nothing can exceed it.”—R. ‘Simeon receiving the Infant Jesus in the Temple.—“ A study of Susanna for a picture. It appears very extraordi- nary that Rembrandt should have taken so much pains, and have made at last so very ugly and ill-favoured a figure; but his attention was prin- cipally directed to the colouring and efl'ect, in which, it must be acknow- ledged, he has attained the highest degree of excellence."—R. Boy’s portrait, less than life, about 14. Rubens: His first wife, Isabel Brant; and his second wife, Helena Four-merit: “both fine portraits; but the last by far the most beautiful and _ the best coloured.”—R. The two faces are very much alike—Portrait of his confessor, 8. Dominican bishop. . + The quotations marked R. are derived ’ from Sir Joshua Reynolds’s ‘ Tour in Holland and Flanders.’ “32 . ' Ruysch (Rachel): Two excellent , flower-pieces: ‘ Buysdael: *Cataract, '*Sea—shore, ‘ and View of Haarlem. Schalken: 128. A Lady at her toilette, with beautiful candlelight '. effect—Portrait of William III. 129. Good advice thrown away. 130. Quack doctor. ~ Seghers: Two Flower-pieces, re- markable for the excellence of their roses, the colour of which this painter alone appears able to preserve. Snyders: “ A large hunting piece, well painted, but better suited to a hall or ante—room.”——R. The land- scape is by Rubens. Sonja: Scene in a valley. Steen: 131. The‘ Dentist. 135. ' The *Menagerie, one of his best works. 136. The Doctor, feeling a pulse. 137. *Visit to a young girl’s sick chamber. 138. *The Painter, with his family. 139. Human life (see Kugler, German and Dutch Schools). Stork: Two good sea pieces. Teniers: An alchemist. Akitchcn. . Terburg : *A téte-Ez-téte, interrupted b a trumpeter delivering a letter. dPortrait of the painter. Uchtervelt: Fishmonger. Ulft; Roman army among ruins. Velde (Adrian van de): *Cattle; and *Dutch sea-coast. Velde (W. van do): View on the Y; Calm sea; Naval engagement of . 1666. Van Dyck: *Portrait of Simons, a painter of Antwerp. “ This is one of the very few pictures of Van Dyek which is in perfect preservation ; and, on examining it closely, it appeared to me a perfect pattern of portrait- paintiug; every part is distinctly marked, but with the lightest hand, and without destroying the breadth ot 1ight.”——R. *Two fine portraits of a Gentleman, and “ a Lady with a fea- ther in her hand ;”——R.: called Sir ——- Shefiield and his Wife, with their coat of arms in the corner. Vliet (H. C. van): View of the old church at Delft. Vois (Adrian dc): Sportsman. Weenix: Dead swan; and Game. ‘ Route 3C—lt—The VHague: Royal Library. I , seat; I. Weyden (Roger van der): Descent. } . from the Cress. Witte (Emm. de): Church interior. Wouwerman : Nine good specimens, of which the best are—183. Halt of sportsmen; 184. Country riding- school; 185. *Ford, with hay cart; 186. *Battle, remarkable for its size and vigorous spirit; and 189. Sports men resting; the last probably by his, pupil, Karel ran Falens. “These pic- tures are in his three different man- ners: his middle manner is by much the best; the first and last have not that liquid softness which charac- terises his best works. Besides his great skill in colouring, his horses are correctly drawn, very spirited, of a beautiful form, and always in unison with their ground.”——R. Wynants: *Forest margin; and Road among the sand hills. There are also some portraits of merit by unknown masters, and a landscape (277), by Gaspar Poussin. The only Italian paintings worth special mention are Mazzoh'no (280), Massacre of the Innocents; Salrator Rosa (289 and 290), Monks and friars in a grotto; and Piero (Ii Cosimo, Por- trait of an old man and of the architect San Gallo. The Royal Library (B. 3), in the Lange Voorhout, No. 31, consists of about 300,000 vois., open daily, except Sunday, 10 to 3. Here may be seen the prayer-books, richly adorned with miniatures, of Philip the Good, of Catherine de’ Medici and Catherine of Aragon, and a Bible presented to William and Mary of England at their coronation, with these words in the title-page, in the Queen’s own hand: “ This Bible was given the king and I at our erownation, 1089. Marie R." Among the MSS. is a copy of the Treaty of Utrecht; the original is in the Archives. The collection of coins and medals (to the number of 10,000) and of gems in the same building is very extensive ' and rich. There are 300 cameos, the _ greater part antique—among them, ‘- Holland. 'Boute 3.-——Tke’Haguc.: Steenyracfit Gallery. ' ‘33; the apotheosis of Claudius, one of the largest known, and of fine workman- ship. Among the modern cameos, a / portrait of Queen Elizabeth is very ' fine. Admission on Mon, Wed., and Ij‘ri., 10 to 3. . The Municipal Museum (0. 3), open daily, 10 to 3, Sun. 1 to 3, contains old and modern paintings, removed from the Stadhuis, including *portrait-pic- tures of civic dignitaries and members of old rifle corps, by Van Ravestein, Miere'vclt, &c., of high interest for animation and costumes. Here also is a fine view of the Hague by Van Gog/en, his largest picture, and nume- rous civic curiosities. The general arrangement is as follows :—Ground floor, 1st room: medals, coins, old silver, glass, and porcelain. 2nd room; armour, military costumes, and wea- pons. 3rd room ; medals and goblets. 4th room; china and Delft ware. The most remarkable among the pictures are z—Bcrkheyde (Gerrit),——thc Vyver- berg in 1692. (Irena—two extensive street-views of the Hague. Fargue.— View of the Boschbrug in 1774. Jansscns,—Magistrates ot' the Hague in 16”. * Miercvelt,—cheral por- traits. *Ii‘az-esteg/n,—Four very cele- brated municipal portrait groups :— Magistrates of 1617, comprising 26 figures; Magistrates of 1636. deli- ,berating on plans for the building of the new Docleu; Civic guard of 25 \ persons, issuing,r from the new Doelen; and Oflieers of the guard in 1638. Tempel,—Portrait of Cornelis van Gro- enendyck, a fine boy of 8. Valoz’s,—- The Mauritshuis. Good modern speci— lnens are Borselcn,~Landscape near Gouda; Hare, XVinter scene near Ley- den; Tom,—Cattle under trees; and Waldorp,~River scene at Delft. The Navy Office (C. 3), in the Lange Voorhout (open daily, except Sunday, 10 to 3), contains a large and valu- able collection of models of vessels, 8:0. The *Gallery of Baron Steengracht, No. 3, Vyverberg (C. 2), is one of the choicest private collections in the world, \and may be seen daily from 2 to . [Holland, 1888.] 4, fee lfl. The first room contains; modern pictures, among which are good specimens by Koekkoek, Meisso- m'er (Soldiers playing Cards), and Sclielfhout. The most remarkable (if the older works, arranged in the two other rooms, are here given in alpha- betical order, , Bakhuizen.—Sea-piece. Bol.——Portrait. Brouwer.—Peasants. Cuyp.—Horse. Dom—Portraits. Du Jar-dim—Boy and (log. Ever-dingen.—Wood and water in Norway. Helst, Bart. can den—Male and female portraits. Hobbema.—Landscape. Hooch, P. tie—Musical party. Keyser.—Male portrait. maker. Mace—Boy eating pancakes. flIetsu.——Mot11er and sick child. Mieris.—Boy with cage. Netscher.——Portraits. . 0stade.—— Cottage interior, Pig going to market, and Group of countrymen. Potter.—Catt1e—piecc. Rembrandt. — Bathsheba, remark- able for its wonderful effects of light and shade. Rubens—Heads of SS. Peter and Paul, Infant Christ, and Bacchus. Ruysdael.—Cataract. Steam—Happy Family, of unusual size ; and the Doctor. Tenz‘ers.—chen Works of Mercy. Terburg.—Mother and daughter. Velde, A. van (la—Cattle. Velde, W. van dc.——Sea-piece. Vois, Ary (la—Peasant. The cabinet of the late Baron de Westrecnen, bequeathed by him to the nation in 1850, now Museum Meer- manno-Westreenen (open lst and 3rd Thursday in the month), Prinsessen- Gracht (B. 4), contains a' fine collec- tion of books printed before 1500, coins, antiquities, etc. There are specimens of Byzantine art, and works of Cimabuc, Giotto, Duccio, Ambrogio La uratz’, J. ran Eyck, and of the early schools of Florence and Siena. Tickets must be obtained at the Library, ‘on Lace the preceding day. 1) ,34. Statues. --A fine bronze Statue, erected in 1848, of William 1., Prince of Orange, by M. Boyer, stands in the middle of the Plain, near the Museum. His faithful dog bears him company (see ante). Bronze Statue of Wil- liam II., King of the Netherlands, in the Buitenhof, erected by the nation in 1853. Monument to Duke Karel Bernard van Saxen Weimar, who fought at Waterloo, near the Theatre (C. 3). Statue of Spinoza, in the Paveljoensgracht (E. 2). Bronze Equestrian Statue of William I. (the Silent), Prince of Orange, by Royer, opposite the King’s Palace, erected in 1845. The Finance Office, close by to the *S.E., was once the house of Olden- barneveld. N. of this, in Park St. (B. 3) ispthe modern R. 0. Church of St. James, a handsome early 14th cent. building by Cuypers, in brick and stone. English Ch. Service on Sundays at , 11 and 3, in a neat brick Gothic ch. in Van den Bosch Square, erected at the expense of Mr. J. Tinne, a Liverpool merchant of Dutch descent, as a me- morial to his sister, murdered in ‘Africa. (D. 6). The Stadhuis (C. 2) is a picturesque building of red brick, striped with stone; the older portion was built in 156—1; the facade is ornamented with carving and statues, and it is flanked by a tower. Close to it stands the Groote Kerk, ' a late Gothic edifice, containing a few monuments of no great interest, and some wood carving. On Tues. from 3 to 4 there is a performance on the large and fine organ, built in 1881 (Adm. 25 c.). Sacristan at 13 Kerk- pl‘ein, near the Post Office. Across the street to the S. is the Fish Market, where a few storks are maintained at the expense of the town. In the Theatre (Schouwburg) at the E. angle of the Korte Voorhout, French operas are performed twice a week, and Dutch plays twice, in autumn and Winter. Rented—The Hague : Hausa in 'themWOOd. Sect. 1. The Bazaar, Zee‘Straat, on the way to Scheveningen, has a wonderful col- ‘ lection of Chinese and Japanese curi- osities, bronzes, jewels, 65;). At the Hague the water is more stagnant than in almost any other part of Holland. A steam-engine outside the town raises up water from the Dunes and conveys it to the Vij- verberg, whose stagnant water it dis- places into the canals, and, at last, effecting a feeble current through the Hague, pushes out a portioninto the canal leading to Delft. From Delft the water barely flows to the borders. of the Meuse, above Rotterdam, where it is again pumped up and discharged into that river. In 1887 a new canal was cut for the purpose of changing the water in the, night. The Zoological and Botanical Garden (established in 1862) contains some rare animals and plants, and is prettily laid out. Entrance 50 cents ; on Sunday, when there is a concert, 1 fl ’ The *Bosch or Wood, a. park, nearly 2 m. long, abounds in forest-trees, allowed to grow unelipped. A mili- tary band plays here on Wed. and Sun. afternoons. At the end of the Park, % hr. on foot from the Hague, lies the palace called the House in the lVoorl (Huis ten Bosch), built in 16H. The billiard- room is hung round with family por- traits—among them the Governor of Friesland by Van Dyck, and the chil- dren of Charles I. by Netscher. On the walls of the dining-room are some wonderful imitations of bus-relief by De Wit (17-19), and much valuable porcelain. The great hall, called *Orange Saloon, was built by a Prin- cess of Solms, grandmother of our William III., and decorated with paintings in honour of her husband, Prince Frederick Henry of Orange. The subjects are allegories by Jor- daens, Van Tulden, Lievens, or Hon- thorst. The pictures no doubt display much bad taste and drawing; but the group of female prisoners and that of Venus and her nymphs have all the . Holland. I brilliant transparency . of Rubens’s ‘ colouring. One of the rooms is hung - with Chineserice-paper. , The Oval Plain (A. 2, 3) contains the National Monument, uncovered in 1869, and commemorative of the re- st’oration of the Dutch independence in, 1813, and the return of William Fredk., Prince of Orange and Nassau, from England. The whole was de- signed by Pieterszen, and the bronze ‘ ,figures are by J aquet and Kempcn. William III. of England, and Huy- gens, the inventor of the pendulum clock, were born at the Hague. Charles II. of England passed a great portion of his exile here. Spinoza, the philosopher, lived for 6 years and died (1677) at 32 Pavel- joensgraeht, opposite his statue. He was buried in the Nieuwe Kerk (D. 3). The Passage, on the S. side of the Buitenhof (C. D. 2) is a handsome covered arcade, with shops, cafe’, 8:0. [At its N. entrance is the Prins Hen- drik Museum, an unimportant collec- tion of telephonic, acoustic, electric, and mathematical instruments, with models, and smaller objects of art. Adm. daily 10 lo 4, 25 c.; Thurs, 50 c. On Sunday, 2 to 4. 0n the B. side of the Plein (C. D. 3) rises the handsome building which contains the National Archives, and nearly opposite are various Public Oliiees. , Wateringen, within an easy drive to the 8., is a good specimen of a Dutch village, where travellers may witness the cheese-making, and other scenes of agricultural life (see All:- maar): The road N. to l’Vassenacr and Clingendale is lined with country seats, and passes through a well- wooded district, abounding in delight- ful walks. SOHEVENINGEN, about 3 m. from ‘ the Hague, on the sea-shore, isa fishing- village and popular bathing place of 1 15,000 Inhab. There are 4 ways of l reaching it from the Hague—by tram- ‘ Way from the Plein along the old or Route 3.——'Watem'ngen—Scheeeningen. ' the principal hotels. 35 new road, the former being by far the. pleasanter; or by steam tramway from either of the rly. stations. Cab from the stat., 1% to 2 11., according. to number. The old road passes through a long avenue of trees, and is one of the most pleasant walks in Holland. A little to the left of the road is Zorgvliet, once the residence of the poet Jacob Cats: a stone table at which he used to write, with a hole cut in it for an inkstand, is shown in the garden. Further on, is a half-way house called the Hotel de la Promenade. Scheveningen is much frequented by the aristocracy of Holland, and the cost of board and lodging is high. The village stands in the midst of a wide. waste of sand-hills thrown up by the wind along the shore, conceal- ing all views of the sea till the traveller is clase upon it. A consider- able portion of it was swallowed up by a dreadful inundation in 1570. Along- side of the fishing-village has sprung up a collection of casinos and villas, including that of Prince Frederick; in front of these runs a terrace paved with clinkers and forming a pleasant promenade. To the right of the village, in the midst of a desert of undulating sand- hills barely covered by scanty tufts of coarse grass (see Dunes, § 11), is a pavilion ofthe late Queen of Holland. Concerts and other entertainments are given in the large and imposing Seinpost, on the shore towards the N. The central point for loungers is the extensive Curhaus, united to one of S. of the point where the old road strikes the shore is a Lighthouse, commanding a fine view ; and near it an obelisk, in commemora- tion of William I. and the indepen- dence of Holland. Schevcningen was the place from which Charles II. embarked for Eng- land at the Restoration; and here the Prince of Orange landed in 1813, some months before the downfall of Buonapnrte. Ofi' Schevcnin gen (1653) the English fleet under Monk defeated the Dutch D 2 X36) ,' ‘fleet under Tromp, who was killed . during theaction. ‘ A pleasant drive may be taken through Scheveningen Park and by the Zoological Gardens to the Bosch, returning to the Hague by Ryswyk and the Delft road. Another attract- ive carriage-road leads N.E. from the Korte Voorhout (C. 4) to (2 m.) Voorburg, a small hamlet near the site of the Forum Hadriaui of the Romans. Remains of Roman build- ings, baths, broken pottery, utensils, and other articles of much interest ”Route 3.—7oorba%g—’Leiden. - i » SectI " filled with flowers. The my. is éar- ..; ried at some distance from these, over a marshy flat and peat hog; and some open fields where-tulips and hyacinths " "row. ~ _ o The narrowed stream of the Rhine is crossed near Vink, before reaching Leiden, by a timber bridge with 5 openings. one of which is furnished with sliding platforms, in order to allow the masts of vessels to pass. 4-1 m. LEIDEN J unct. Stat. (43,000), situated on that branch of the Rhine which alone retains its original name R. 'l . figsgggzy . < \L can“, Moat 77A,”; O LEIDEN PLAN or mecx. a. lI.Lcuw. 3 b. 11. Central. 4. Burg. 0. ll. Levering. 5. 1. Station. 6 2. Museum of Pictures. 7. . St. Peter’s. have been dug up here, and are now to be seen in the museum at Leiden. Near Voorburg is Ilot‘wyk, the house where the Mathematician Huygens lived. Rly. Stations: Rhenish (D. 4) for Gouda, Utrecht. and Amsterdam; Dutch(F. 3) for Germany and express trains to Rotterdam, Leiden, Haarlem, and Amsterdam. The Gouda rly. runs 16., and is described in Rte. 10. BetWeen the Hague and Leiden are many country houses and gardens, with meandering walks, formal clipped hedges, and parterrcs cut in patterns . Museum of Antiquities. St. l‘ancras. University. 8. Bot. Garden. 9. Monument of Van der . \Verff. 10. Ethnological Museum. 11. Nat. Hist. Museum. as far as the sea, and which here re- sembles an artificial canal. In its present name may still be traced that by which it was known to the Romans ——Lu-gdunum Batavorum. It is sur- rounded by a moat, its ramparts having been tastefully arranged as » public walks. It had 8 gates, of which the Morsoh Poort, near the stat, is the only one in good preservation. It is divided by the Rhine into 50' islets joined by 145 stone bridges. ' Leiden is a specimen of a quiet “ Dutch town, with broad, well-cut canals, fringed by .fine old trees, Holland Route 3. —Leiden: well-built, well-kept, trim, substan- tial houses, marvellously clean, and mostly fitted with plate-glass window s , the tinted sashes and stone facings relieving the monotony of the red brick. 011 the way from the Stat. the Statue of Herman Boerhaave, the great physician and physiologist, is passed on the rt. In the centre of the towu is the fragment of a round tower, the Burg, built 011 a mound of earth: it is said to have been raised by Drusus. It stands in the garden of an inn, and 10 cents are charged to each person for admission. The Town Hall (Studhuz's), in the handsome, broad, clean Breestraat, is a singular building, erected 1574—98, with picturesque bell-tower. The quaint lions, and the double flight of 'steps and the inscriptions, give the long facade a striking appearance. Over a door on the N. side is a curious inscription in 131 letters, recording the famine consequent upon the siege of 1574, which lasted 131 days. The capitals give the date in Roman numerals, counting \V as V V (see \below). Near the Station, turning 1. out of the beast- market, at 32 on the Dude Singel, is the Town Museum in the Lal.e11hal; open 10 to 4 daily, admis- sion 10 cents. Sun 1'). to 4, free. Catalogue of 1884, 50 c. 011 the 1st floor are municipal anti- quities, seals, medals, MSS, portraits, crockery. objects in glass and metal, and various curiosities, including the shopboard of Jan Beukeler, the Ana- baptist leader, better known as John of Leiden. ()n a screen in a small room on the rt. is a good specimen of Donu'm'cus can Tel (16314678), Old Woman cooking, with 4 boys; also a small Brauwer. and some Portraits. On the stairs are arranged weapons and armour. 2nd lloor: Last Judgment, by Lucas ran Leg/den, an c\truordina1\ composition mm W ings,muchiniu1e d; a Crucifixion, by Cornelius Engelbiecht, with a remarkable Sacrifice ot Isaac on one of the wings; and several good Town Hall; University. portrait-pictures, by Vanschooten, of the City Guard, Diiect01s of Charities in groups, called “Regents,” and members .of the Rifle Clubs. Some old Corporation plate is also exhibited ‘ here. The University (73 apenburg) is remarkable, not only as one of the most distinguished schools of learning in Europe, and for the valuable mu-‘ seums attached to it, but also on account of its origin and foundation. The Prince of Orange, with the view of rewarding the citizens for the bravery they displayed at the time of the Siege, gave them the choice of two privilegcs— either an exemption from certain taxes, or a University: much to their credit they chose the latter. It at one time attained so high a reputation lor learning, that Leiden eained the appellation of the Athens of the West. In the list of its dis- tinguished piofessms and scholars it 1111111bers Grotius and Descartes, Sal- masius, Scaliger, and Boerhaave, who was professor of medicine. Evelyn, Goldsmith, and many other celebrated Englishmen, studied here. Arminius and Gomarus, the authors of the rival doctrines in religion named after them, 1 Were professors here, and the memor- able controversy between them com- menced in the University. Leiden still affords excellent opportunities to the student of medicine or natural history, from the extent and value of its collec- tions in all departments. The Acade- mical Senate Hall, in which degrees are conferred, contains OVer 1116 man- telpiece a likeness of the founder, and its walls are covered from top to bottom with more than 100 portraits of professors, from the time of Scaliger down to the present. It is an historic galle1y of men illustrious in science, , learning, and statesmanship. There are at present about 800 students, mostly of law. Behind the University is the Botanic Garden, famous for its early directors —Linnzeus, Boerhaavc, Clusius, and others—and still an instructive school of botany. The collection of plants is \ c 1 \ .mission at the door. 38 very entenswe, and is preserved in ex- cellent order. In the conselvatmies are reared the cinnamon, cinchona, coffee, cotton, mahogany, 630., and a fine collection of 01ehids. Among many fine tiees may be observed, 30 yds. S. of the Palm-house, a Salis- burl‘a 70 ft. high. The well-arranged Herbarium, at No 33 in the same street, may be seen on asking per- The gardens are open daily except on Sundays and festivals, in summer from ‘7 to 7, in winter from 9 to 4. At No. 19 Rapenburg is a small supplementary Museum of Casts from ancient Greek sculpture (Catalogue 25 c.). The large open space, called Groote Ruine, now planted as a garden, was formerly covered with houses, 300 of whiCh were demolished, 12th January, 1807, by the explosion of a barge laden with gunpowder, while lying in the canal, in the heart of the town. 150 persons were killed. The accident is said to have been caused by the bargemen frying bacon 011 the deck. Here stands a bronze monument to Pieter Adriansz van der Werf, Burgo- meister of Leiden in 157%, with historical reliefs on the pedestal, erected in 188%. . Crossing the Canal. you come to the *Museum of Natural History, No. :28 Rapcnburg (open 011 \\'cr-k~daysf1'ec, 10 to i), one of the richest and most extensive 111 Europe, especially in all the pioductions ot the Dutch colonies in the East, Java, Japan, the Cape, Surinam, and “'est Indies: there are many rare specimens not to be found elsewhere, very excellently preserxed, and the whole is admirably arranged. The department of Birds, on the first floor, is enriched by the collection made by M. ’l‘emminck, perhaps the finest in Europe. Among the shells a1e specimens of those which produce pea11,11nd ot the pearl itself in all its different stages of 101111at1011 also portions of the wooden piles which support the dykes on some parts of the Dutch coast, perforated by the teredo to such an extent that the A ' Route 3.—Lez'den.° Museums ; ' sect. 1. total 1uin 0f the dykes was at one time apprehended. Among the minerals are a mass of» native gold, from the island of Aruba, weighing 17 lbs., 11 large crystal of emerald, and an unseto topaz, of a brownish-yellow colour, from Ceylon, the largest 111 Europe. Among the insects are _various spe- cimens ot spectrum nearly a foot lon also the leaf insect. The department of Comparative Anatomy, on the second floor, is one of the most complete in Europe. It contains preparations and skeletons of animals from the camelopard down to the mouse, and is well arranged. The University Library, 22 Rapen- burg, the largest in Holland, com- prises 300,000 vols, and nearly 6000 , )[SS., among them the rarest oriental MSS. known, collected in the East by Golius in the 17th century. The Museum of Antiquities (het Museum van 0ndheden), 18 Bree Straat (open daily, 10 to 4; Sund., 12.30 to 4, always free), under the able direction of Dr. C. Leemans, includes numerous valuable and highly inter- esting monuments, partly historical, partly illustrative of the mode of life of the ancient Egyptians. Here is a large collection of Papyri, some musi— cal instruments, inscriptions, numerous tine stone tablets ofa very early period, a monolithic temple, cut out of a single huge block of red granite, a. wooden statue of the god, Seth, many sarcophagi and mummies, as Well as rich ornaments in gold and precious stones. 0f jewellery and trinkets, once. doubtless, the delight of the ladies of Thebes, and such as were borrowed by the children of Israel 011 their departure from Egypt, there is a large assortment. A massive armlet of solid gold bears the name of a king (Thctmes 11.), who is supposed to have been the Pharaoh of Scrip- ture history. Roman Art: an Etruscan statue of a boy holding a goose in his arms is curious for the style of art. Six monu~ mental fragments, bearing Punio‘ in- / :‘Holland. scriptions and some sculptures, were . brought from the ruins of Carthage. There are, besides, a number of colos- sal Indian statues and other objects; - a model of a so-called “Hun’s . bed.” (Dolman) from the' Province of Drenthe; abundance of old stone im- plements, chiefly found in Holland, including many whorls dug up at Utrecht; a heap of broken pottery and other objects discovered at Voor- burg, near the Hague, curious relics of the Roman settlement in this country. The *Ethnographical Museum, 108 Hoogewoerd, under the care of Dr. C. Lcemans (open Mon., “fed, and Fri., 12 to 4), is probably the finest and , most extensive in Europe, and was formed by Dr. Siebold, a German physician, in the course of a residence in Japan from 1822 to 1830, some years of which were spent in prison. It unites everything from the most common to the most rare and valuable objects relating to the mode of life, manners and customs, &c., of the J a- panese, and a complete set of Chinese coins, from the 2nd century before our era. The collection includes also in- teresting objects from Sumatra, Java, Russian America, 630., and has been much enriched by the addition of a variety of specimens, formerly at the Hague. Supplementary Museum of Chinese and Japanese curiosities at No. 69 Rapenburg, open on Tues, Thurs, and Sat., from 12 to 4. The Churches, though bare and de- graded by whitewash and neglect, deserve notice from their style of Gothic, and their vast proportions. In the S. transcpt of the large Church of St. Peter (built in 1315, of brick, with double aisles) is the menu- ment of Boerhaave (b. 1608, (l. 1738), the physician, with the modest inscrip- tion, “ Salutifero Boerhaavii Genio sacrum ;” and others in memory of the most distinguished worthies of the University, as Dodonaaus, Spanheim, the two Meermans, Clusius, Sealiger, Camper, and J. Luzae, killed by the rRoute 3.9Museums; Churches. 39" explosion of .1807. ‘In the choir are pavement slabs with effigies of Justin of ‘Nassau and his Wife, Governo’r of Breda, d. 1631. Here also rests the body of Arminius (d. 1609). The Church of St. Pancras, called the Hooglandschc Kerk (1280), is the largest and finest, remarkable for its transepts, 250 ft. long. The choir of 5 bays, ending in an apse and nave of 6, is 90 ft. high. Against a central pier is a monument to the brave bur- gomaster Vandcrwerf (d. 1604), who refused to yield up the town to the Spaniards; he rests under the tower. Leiden is famous in history for the Siege which it endured from the Spaniards under Valdez in 1373—4. The defence of the place was intrusted to John van der Does; the burgomaster of the town was Pieter Adriansz Van: derwerf; and the example of heroism and endurance afforded by the citizens under their guidance has not been sur- ' passed in any country. When Van der Does was urged by Valdez to surrender, he replied, in the name of the inhabit- ants, that “when provisions failed them , they would devour their left hands, reserving their right to defend their liberty.” For nearly four months the inhabitants had held out without mur- muring; every individual, even to the women and children, taking a share in the defence. For seven weeks bread had not been seen within the walls ; the horrors of famine had driven the be! sicged to appease their hunger with the flesh of horses, dogs, cats, and other foul animals; roots and weeds were eagerly sought for. Pestilence came in the train of famine, and carried ofl' at least 6000 of the inhabitants, so that the duty of burying them was almost too severe for those who were left, worn . out by fatigue, watching, and emacia- tion. At length two carrier pigeons flew into the town, bearing tidings that relief was at hand. The Prince of Orange had finally adopted the deter- mination of cutting the dykes of the Maas and Ijssel, to relieve the heroic town. As this fearful alternative could not be resorted to without involving in ruin the whole province of Holland, it , ._ 40 is hot to bé-wondered at that it was only adopted as a last resource. But the inundation, even when the water was admitted, did not produce the antici- pated results; although the country between Gouda, Dort, Rotterdam, and Leiden was submerged, it only rose a. few feet. The flotilla of 200 beats, built by the Prince of Orange at Rot- terdam. and manned by 800 Zcelandcrs under Boisot. destined for the relief of the town, was thus prevented approach- ing it, though the inhabitants could easily descry it from their walls. Then it was that, driven frantic by disap- pointment as well as sufi‘ering, they approached, in a tumultuous mob, the burgomaster, and demanded from him bread 01' the surrender of the town. , “I have sworn to defend this city,” answered the heroic governor, “and by God’s help I mean to keep that oath. Bread I have none; but, if my body can afford you relief and enable you to prolong the defence, take. it and tear it to pieces. and let those who are most hungry among you share it." Such noble devotion was not without 'its effect; the most clamorous were abashed, and they all retired in silence. Fortunately the misery of the be- sieged was now nearly at an end, and another power above that of man effected the relief of the town of Leiden. The wind. which had for many Weeks been in the N.E., changed to the N.W., driving the tide up the river; it then suddenly veered to the s., and one of those violent and con- tinued storms which. even when the dykes are entire, cause such anxiety for the safety of the country, acting with accumulated violence upon the waters, widened the breaches already out in the dykes, and drove in the tlool upon the. land with the force of an overwhelming torrent. The inun- dation not only spread as far as the walls of Leiden, but with such sud- denness that the ramparts thrown up by the Spaniards were surrounded, and more than 1000 of their soldiers were overwhelmed by the flood. The same tide which swept them away carried the tlotilla of boats of the Prince of Orange, laden with provi— . Route 3.—‘Leirden—~I‘fatrmjk, stone, to the‘ gates of Leiden. An amphibious battle was fought among the branches of the trees, partly on the dykes, partly in boats, and in the end the Spaniards, who had boasted that it was as impossible for the Dutch to save Leiden from their hands as to pluck the stars from heaven, were driven from their palisades and en- trenchments. This almost miraculous deliverance took place on the 3rd of October, 1574, a day still commemor- ated by the citizens. In the neighbourhood of Leiden are the retreats of several distinguished men. In the Chateau of Endegeest (on the way to Katwyk) Descartes wrote many of his works; and the country seat of Boerhaavc still bears his name. Leiden gave birth to many eminent painters. the greatest of whom was Rembrandt (b. 15 July, 1607). His father. liermau Geraerds van Rhyn, was owner of a corn~mill, situated between Layerdorp and Koukerk. Otto Veenius. master of Rubens, (1556), Jan. Steen (1636), Gerard Donw Micris, and many other distinguished painters. were born here; as were some of the Elzevirs, famous printers, known by the editions of the classics bearing their name, and printed in Leiden. Rly. E. to Utrecht (Rte. 12). [About 6 m. N.W. of Leiden is the favourite sea-side bathing place of Katwijk, where the expiring Rhine is helped to discharge itself into the sea by means of a canal with gigantic sluice-gates. ’l‘hemouth of the Rhino had remained closed from the year 840, when a violent tempest heaped up an impenetrable barrier of sand at its month, until 1809, when the sluices were formed. As long as the river was left to itself, it was lost before it reached the sea in the vast beds of sand which it there encountered, and which either lay below the level of the tides, or were so fiat that water could hardly pass through or drain of them. Thus only a small part of the Rhine; dribbling into insignificant (16l3), 1V. Vandevelde, \V. \ mi I ' ‘ .S‘ect.fIv.~-, 4-,; Hollandl’ " .' streamsLever found its way out; the ’ ' ‘rest settled into stagnant pools, con- verting the whole district into a pesti— lential morass. To remedy this evil, and also to give a new outlet to the Haarlem Lake and to the super- fluous waters of the district of the Rijnland, a wide artificial channel has been formed, provided with a triple set of sluices. When the tide flows the gates are shut to prevent the en~ trance of the sea, which at high water rises against them 12 ft., and the ' level of the sea on the outside is equal to that of the canal within. During ebb-tide the flood-gates are opened for 5 or 6 hours, to allow the accumu- lated streams to pass out, and, in their passage, to clear away the sands col- lected by the waves on the outside. , It has been calculated that the volume of water passing out in a second equals 100,000 cubic ft. When the Sea is much agitated, and the wind, blowing towards the shore. prevents the tide ‘ retiring to its usual distance, it is impossible to open the gates at all. The dykes which have been raised at the entrance of the canal, and on the sea-shore, are truly stupendous; they are founded upon piles driven into the loose sand, and faced with solid masonry of limestone from Tournai. » These hydraulic works were executed during the reign of King Louis Buona- parte by an engineer named Conrad] 27 m. Warmond Stat, close to which is a large College for Rom. Catholic priests. The country now becomes undulating and broken, the line being partly cut through bare sand-hills, the E. extremity of the Dunes (§ 11). l 38 m. Vogelenzang Stat. Here is y the steam-engine for pumping up the fresh water from a reservoir of 7 acs., among the dunes of Haarlcm, to supply the city of Amsterdam, a work effected by British capital in 1855. The con- duit passes under numerous canals in flexible or jointed pipes, and crosses the great sluiees of Halfweg. Near Bennebroek, to the rt., of the line, the canal of Leiden and the high road are Route‘3i.—l— VogelenzangTHadrlem. 41 both crossed by atrelliswork bridge, 177 ft. in length, and at an angle of 30° with the canal. Linnaeus resided long in the house of Hartekamp, near Bennebroek, then inhabited by the rich English Iner- chant Clifford, Whose name and col- lection he has immortalised in his work, the Hortus Cléfordz’anus. He also composed his ‘ System of Natural History’ while living there. Harte- kamp lies nearly 2 in. E. of Vogelen- .zang. On approaching Haarlem the country becomes wooded and undulating, the number of country seats greatly in— creases, and extensive tulip-nurseries are passed on both sides of the rly. The General Bulb Co. has 80 acres under cultivation, valued at 20,0001. a year. The large healthy rats which infest the canals of Holland are ter- rible enemies of the bulbs, and in certain Seasons occasion serious loss to the growers. About 3 n1. before reach- ing Haarlem, a little off the high road, is the ruined castle of Teilingen, the residence of the unfortunate Jacque- line of Holland. ‘ 43 m. HAARLEM J unct. Stat. (41,000), a clean and pleasant town on the S paarne,wliieh winds in serpentine curves on the E. boundary. Following the tramway, which runs S. from the stat, passing the principal hotels, the first place of interest, No. 59 on the 1., immediately beyond the first canal, is the ' .- Episcopal Museum (Bisshoppelijk .Museum), a small collection of vest- ‘ ments, missals, wood and ivory carv- ings, old paintings, church plate, and ornaments, exhibited in several badly- lighted rooms. (Fee 25 0.) Further on we reach the Market-place, on the W. side of which is the Town-hall (see below), and on the E. the principal church of St. Bavon, while between the two stands the picturesque old Vleeschhal (Fleshers’ Hall), of the 16th cent. The Groote Kerk of St. Bavon is‘a , vast Gothic building of the 15th cent, with a nave 70 ft. high, supported by large round pillars, whose capitals are ....__.,-,,,_. V ,V‘ . 42' ‘ Stil’fly carved in foliage of oak. It‘has a lofty clerestory, parapet triforium; short ,transepts, groined wooden roof, and chancel devoid of capitals to its piers. The screen, of good gilded flamboyant iron work, has panels of quaint figures bearing shields. A horizontal clock is hung face down- wards under the lantern, and in the nave are 4: large brass chandeliers. In the Wall of the S. aisle 9. cannon-ball s ill remains imbedded, a relic of the memorable siege by the Spaniards in 1573. At the SJV. corner of the chancel is a monument to Conrad, who Route 3.—Had9flcm.' Great Organ; Sect. 1. 1' surpassed in scale by our own instru- ments at York and Birmingham, by the new organ at Rotterdam, and riValled, if not outdone as to quality, by Mooser’s organ at Frihourg in Switzerland. The number of pipes is 5000, the number of stops 60; it has four manuals (rows of keys for the hands) and a pedal-board (for the feet). The organist’s fee is 12 guilders (11.), and 1 guilder for the blower, for his performance at private hours: it matters not how large the party. At this private performance the player makes a liberal but tasteless exhibi- built the Katwijk sluices (d. 1808). and another in the S. chancel aisle to Bilderdjik, the Dutch poet and friend of Southey (d. 1831). The choir stalls date from 1550, but some fragments of 1435 exist at the W. end of the S. aisle. The colouring on the vaults, crosses, and pillars has been restored. The *Great Organ of Haarlem still holds its place as “ one of the esta- blished lions of the Continent. It was built by Christian Miiller of Amster- dam, in 1738, and was for many years assumed to be the largest and finest organ in the world. It has long been HAARLEM %\\i 6 re. ‘9‘ 3 a“ c 1 QFDWF ' RA . LwAvi STATEON 3 g? f a. 11.1\‘i1nekler. 2. Episcopal Museum. 6. Amsterdamer Thor. . I). H. Leuw. 3. Picture G nllcry. 7. R. C. Church. . e. H. Leeuwcrik. 4. Groote Kerk. 8. l‘nvilion. 1. Post Oificc. 5. Teyler’s Museum. 9. Fleshers’ llall. tion of the solo stops in turn, includ— ing that which imitates bells, and the far—famed row humana stop, and winding up with ‘ The Storm,’ a picce of clap-trap music in the obsolete style of ‘The Battle of Prague.’ When ‘The Sterm’ is over, strangers are invited to ascend into the organ-loft to examine the instrument; they may also procure a specification of the stops, &c.. from the organist. Every Tues. from 1 to ‘2, and Thurs. from 2 to 3, a selection of music is played, to which the public is admitted gratuitously. The supremacy of the Haarlem organ lies in its great and Holland. general beauty and sweetness of tone. Burney remarked that ‘all these enormous machines seem loaded with useless stops, or such as contribute to augment noise and to stiffen the touch.’ The vow humana stop is to be heard in as great perfection at Gouda, and in more eminent and speaking beauty at Fribourg. In the public exhibition, the organ and its com- ponent stops are fairly exhibited with- out being put through the puppet- show antics distasteful to every true musician.” —— II. I". Chm-Icy. — The entrance is at the S. door, where pro- grammes are distributed by an official. Hats are universally worn during the performance. In the open market-place, W. of St. Bavon, opposite the house in which he was born, is a statue of Laurens J anszoon Coster, mentioned in Haarlem Registers from 1436 to 1483, for whom the Dutch nation claim the credit of the invention of printing with move- able types. His claims are grounded upon a local tradition, which can be traced back to the beginning of the 16th cent, and upon a passage in the Cologne Chronicle (dated 1499), to the purport that, “although the art of printing was invented at Mainz, yet it was anticipated in Holland, in the ‘ Donatuscs ’ printed there before.” Here is no mention of Coster, whose name as the inventor first occurs in Hadrianus Junius’ ‘ Batavia,’ written in 1568, but not published till 1588. As to Jnnius‘ allegation, that one of (Joster’s workmen stole his types, and conveyed the secret to Mainz, there is as yet no evidence. Nor is there direct evidence of Coster having printed the books usually ascribed to him. But several historical and bibliographical details, connected with these books, commonly called Cos- tcr/mm, and various circumstances connected with the earliest Mainz printing, can only be reconciled when we assume that printing was invented by Coster at Haarlem about 1-145, seven or eight years before it became known at Mainz. In the Studlzm's are preserved (1) three or four small folios, without date or printer’s name, * Route 3,—Stadhuis ; Paintings. 43 of the kind called block books—‘ Can- ticum Canticorum ’; ‘Ars Moriendi,’ and ‘Historia S. Johannis,’ presum- ably of Dutch origin, but there are no grounds for ascribing them to Coster; (2) copies, or fragments, of the books presumed to have been printed by him, as, the Latin Grammar called ‘Do- natus’ (various editions); Alexander Gallus’ ‘ Doctrinale ’ ; ‘ Speculum Humanie Salvationis ’ (Spieghcl onser behoudenisse; various editions). Haar- lem still possesses a type-foundry, celebrated for the types cast in it? The Stadhuis, opposite the W. end of the 011., older than the siege (al- though 1630—33 is inscribed on it), contains a Museum and a collection of national portraits of the greatest in- terest and originality, formerly dis- persed in hospitals and convents in Haarlem,—including the finest works of Frans Hols, a painter whose high qualities are little known in England, but who may here be fully appreciated. The pictures represent meetings and dinners of officers of various guilds of riflemen (Arquebusicrs), also of direc- tors of charitable institutions. These forcible works contain each from 5 to 16 portraits, painted between 1616 and 1661. Adm. 10 to 3. 25 cents; Sun. 12 to 3, gratis; Catalogue 30 cents. Among the antiquities are the first efforts of Haarlem in printing (see above), coins struck during the siege, and a Flag carried at the siege of 1573. The important Spanish room, to which a door opens from behind a picture in the first gallery (extra fee), contains a curious and highly interest- ing collection of furniture, wrapons, glass, etc, and the celebrated *goblet of St. Martin, modelled in 160% for the guild of brewers. Paintings: Bercklzeydc, Gen-{t ; *Market and Town Hall at I-Iaarlem; Street Scene. Berekhcg/dc, Job ; F 'ans Hals visited by \Vonwerman, in his studio. Bray, Jan dc,- 15, 16, *Governors and lady-managers of a Charity School; 18, Lady-managers of an 1- See the article "I‘ypography,' by J. 1i; llessels, in the ‘ICneyclop-Miia Britannica, 9th edition. 44 Route 3.—Haariem : Paintings ; asylum for lepers; 20. Selcucus losing"l an -eye for his son’s ransom; 21, Deification of Prince Frederick Henry. Ifreughel, Pieter (the younger); Various comical scenes, representing Flemish proverbs. Brouwer; Cottage interior. Cornelz‘sz; -7, Feast of Archers. Grabber; 60, Feast of officers; 62, Archers of S. George. *Frans Hats; 70, Portrait of him- self; 71, 72, Archers of S. George; 73. Archers of S. Adrian; 74, Same subject on larger canvas, specially fine; 75, Archers of S. George: 76, Gover- nors of S. Elizabeth‘s Hospital; 77, Governors of an Almshousc; 78, Lady- nmnagers of an Almshouse, remark- ably good; 79. 80, Portrait of a Doctor of Laws and his Wife—admir- able. All these deserve the very highest praise for colour, composition, and portraiture. Hmnnslrerelr, JV. run ; S. Luke paint- ing the Virgin and Child; (‘hrist before Pilate, with a good S. Chris- topher on 1. wing. Heist, Burt. can dcr; *Archers of S. Adrian. Holsteyn, “ Unto this last ”—a large picture. Lusiman ( lcmbrandt’s Master); Nativity—Joseph declaiming with overdone energy. Sue-nredam : Church at Haarlem. Seat-man. ,- Guild of Archers. 'l'e'rlmrg; *li‘amily Group. Ulft, J. run 4hr: Ruins of a Roman Forum. Vehlc, A. ’I‘un dc; Haarlem. Wide, E. can de: Forest landscape. Verspronelr: 170, 171. Portrait of Husband and Wife. 175, * Lady- managers of an Asylum. 177, For- trait of an Amsterdam liurgomeister. Van der Virtue (d. 1811); good hilly landscape with water. V room ; Sea-piece, clever. Member-man, Jan; 011. of St. Bavon at Haarlem. To this list may be added several excellent portraits by unknown * Town of careful and masters, of which the most striking are Nos. 226, 22", ‘25”, and 259. Sect. I. Two minutes’ walk E. of St. Bavon, on the quay, is the Teyler Museum, an institution for the promotion (of learn- ing, founded by an opulent merchant, after whom it is named. Adm. daily, except. Sat. and Sun., 1 to 3. Here are some good paintings of modern Dutch artists, a remarkable collection of prints. especially rich in works of A. Osmde: a collection of coins and fossils; among the latter are one or two specimens described by Cuvicr. including the jaw of a fossil saurian, brought from the celebrated quarries at. Maastricht in 1766; and a laboratory well stored with philosophical instru- ments. Catalogue to the Palmologieal Section only. 25 cents. The 1st room contains shells, fossils. and bones; the 2nd, scientific instruments, among which is the largest electric battery known; the 3rd, minerals, jewels, marbles, and the largest known mag- net. capable of raising by attraction 350 kilograms, as well as the largest natural magnetic stone, which will attract 100 kil. This room is lighted from above. by a glazed dome, which forms a passage to the Library (Adm. daily, except Sun. Mon. and Tues, 1 to 4). Among the pictures are good sea—pieces by Schotel, landscapes by Kobe” and KoechIr. skating scenes by Seleelfhout, Justus Jonas preaching before the Elector of Saxony by Van- trigf, the Harbour of Middclburg by Spy-1' new, and a very remarkable copy in pen and ink of Van der llelst's Schutter's Maaltyd (Amsterdam) by Comcenlwrg, which occupied 9 years, and was finished in 183%. An inner room is hung with water-colours. CroSsing the Spaarne from this point. a street leads E. in a few minutes to the very picturesque *Amsterdamer Thor, a brick gateway with octagonal turrets, each pinnacled with a spirelet. A second gateway facing the river is flanked by round turrets. The arches are pointed, and the brick-work effec- tively picked out in stone. On the S. side of the town, more than a mile from the Rly. Stat., is the Hout, or wood, a public park with avenues of trees, wherein stands {Holland ’ The Pavillon,a house built by the : late M. Van der Hoop—the banker, of ‘ Amsterdam, sold afterwards to King ‘ Louis Buonaparte. It’ served for ' several years as the residence of the Princess of Orange, mother to K. William 1., and now belongs to the -Government, by whom it has been converted into a Museum of the Netherland Industrial Society, in two principal compartments. The Colonial Museum, on the ground floor (open daily 10 to 4, Adm. 25 cents), contains a large and systematically arranged collection of Dutch colonial produce, from Java, -- Sumatra, Surinam, New Guinea, and ‘ the East and West Indies, designed chiefly as a means of instruction to ‘ intending colonists, but highly in- teresting to every intelligent visitor. The Museum of Art and Industry, on the upper floor, was founded in 1877 on the plan of South Kensing— ton, and contains numerous models, casts, imitations in every variety of material, and drawings, illustrating the progress and manipulation of deco- rative art. The Ceramic department, comprising hardware, porcelain, glass, and copies of the most famous Greek and Etruscan vases, is especially com- plete and interesting. Close to the Museum has been established a School of Drawing, for the special study of Decorative Art, attended by upwards of 200 pupils. Resident Director of the Museum, ' * Heer F. W. van Eeden. Bulbous Plants—Haarlem is famous for its hyacinths, tulips, and other flowers, which grow not only in gar- . \ dens, but in open fields of many hun- dred acres, in the utmost luxuriance and beauty, in a soil particularly con- ‘ genial to them, viz. an artifical com- bination of light sand with rotted cow- dung‘; while water :lies so near the surface that their roots readily find nourishment during the time of growth, the dry season. The hya- cinths are at their best during the first Route. gr—Museams: Bulbo'us Plants. ) 45‘} of April: then the beds are in their greatest beauty; but it is at other , seasons worth While to visit one of .the numerous Nursery Gardens (Bloemen Tuinen) in the S. outskirts of the town, where there is at all times something to be seen, and Where roots and seeds may be purchased. Messrs. Krelage’s is the best and largest in Holland, situated at the end of Kleine Hoote Street, in the Kleine Houtweg near the Pavilion. Here is a specially con- structed horticultural library, with shelves for 10,000 vols. The gardens of a great part of Europe are supplied from Haarlem; but the trade in tulips is not carried on as in the days of the Tultpomaniu, and 100 florins is now a very large sum for a root. “The enormous prices that were actually given for real tulip bulbs, of particular kinds, formed but a small fraction of the extent to which the mercantile transactions in this gaudy flower were carried. 400 perits in weight (something less than a grain) of the bulb of a tulip named Admiral Lief— lien, cost 4400 H. ; and 200 of another, named Semper Augustus, 2000 fl. Of this last, it once happened there were only two roots to be had, the one at Amsterdam, the other at Haarlem ; and for one of these were offered 4600 fl., a new carriage, two grey horses, and a complete set of harness; and another person offered 12 acres of land. The truth is, that these tulip-roots were never bought or sold, but they became the medium of a systematised species of gambling. The bulbs, and their divisions into perits, became like the different stocks in our public funds, ‘ and were bought and sold at difi'erent prices from day to day, the parties settling their account at fixed periods ; the innocent tulips all the while never once appearing in the transactions. This kind of sheer gambling reached at length to such a height, that the government found it necessary to inter. fere and put a stop to it.”——Family Tour in South Holland. Haarlem has flourishing manufac- tures of cotton, and there are extensive Bleacheries of linen here: they owe half, the tulips during the second half! their reputation to some peculiar pro~ ..-_..__.,--_,_, .,_..__.....—., 1' _ - u \ 46 perty existing in the water. Before the discovery of bleaching by chlorine, the fine linens made in Silesia, as well as those of Friesland, were sent hither to be bleached; and being then ex- ported direct to England, were named after, the country from whence they were embarked,net from that in which they were made. , Haarlem is the birthplace of the painters Wynants, 1600 ; Wouwerman, 1620; Berghem, 162i, and Ruistlacl, 1630. In the environs of Haarlem are nu- merous tasteful villas of Amsterdam capitalists and some agreeable Prome- nades, especially those constructed on the site of the ancient Ramparts, which no one should leave unseen. 3 m. ’N.W. of Haarlem is Bloemen- daal (carriage, 4 ii.) a village of country seats, at the back of the Dunes (§ 11), which enjoy so mild a climate that small vineyards are planted upon them (Rte. 4). The range of sand- hills, 3 m. wide, is one vast rabbit- warren. The highest eminence is the Brederodsche Berg, or Blue Stairs, 20 min. walk from the Zomerzorg—bc- hind the great Lunatic Asylum. The View from it is very peculiar, extend- ing over Haarlem, the Wyker Meer, the Y, Amsterdam, and the windmills of Zaandam. At the foot- of this hill lie the ruins of the Castle of Brederode, a brick building—seat of the Brede- -rodes, one of whom was a leader in the struggle which freed Holland from the yoke of Spain. The citizens of Haarlem even sur« passed their neighbours of Leiden in their brave resistance to the Spaniards. The Siege of Haa'rlem preceded that of Leiden; andled the way in a few short years to the total expulsion of the op- pressors from Holland. Haarlem was by no means strongly fortified : indeed, its external defences were weak in the eyes of an engineer, and even its re- sources within were but small. The garrison was limited to 4000 soldiers, ‘among whom were some Scotch; but every citizen became a soldier for the occasion; and a body of 3000 women, under the guidance of the herorc Route 3.4Bloeozzendaal. I ' Sect. 1. widow Kenau Hasselaer, enrolled themselvesin a company, and did duty with pike and musket. Spaniards had made formidable breaches in the walls near the gates of the Cross and of St. J ohn, two assaults on them had failed; and, after seven months of fruitless hostilities and a less of 10,000 men, they were com- pelled to turn the siege into 3. blockade. In order to maintain it with the utmost strictncss, and to cut off all approach from the water, a fleet of war-boats was introduced upon the Lake of Haarlem. Several attempts on the‘ parts of their friends to throw in sup- plies tetally failed ; tlievgarrison, hav- ing consumed everything within the walls down to the grass which grew between the stones of the streets, and seeing no alternative but to die of starvation, determined to place the women and children in their centre, and cut their way through the enemy’s camp. The Spaniards, however, hav- ing heard of this, and fearing the efl'ects of their despair, sent a flag of truce, and otl'ered terms of pardon and Though. the ' / amnesty, on condition of surrender of . the town and 57 of the chief inhabi- tants. A condition so hard would not have been granted, had not these 57 devoted citizens voluntarily yielded themselves up. When the Spaniards entered, they found the garrison of $000 reduced to 1800. Three days passed, and the promise given by the Spaniards was kept, and the arms of the townspeople were surrendered; but when all suspicion of treachery was lulled, the bloodhounds of the cruel AIVa, and his son Ferdinand of Toledo, were let loose on the unsus- pecting and now unarmed citizens. Riperda, the governor, and the 57 were first sacrificed; and afterwards four executioners were called in and kept constantly at work, until 2000 persons, including the Calvinist ministers, the soldiers of the garrison, and many citi- zens, had been inhumanly butchered in cold blood. Towards the conclusion of the slaughter the executioners be- came so exhausted, that the remaining victims Were tied two and two, and thrown into the Lake of Haarlcm. Holland. . v‘ The siege lasted from December 1572 toJuly 1573., Four-:years afterwards, ,the town again fell into the hands of . the Dutch. 6 m. SW. of Haarlem lies the popu- lar sea-bathing place of Zandvoort, reached by branch rly. every hour. The excursion is a pleasant one in summer, and the pedestrian may walk along the sands to (8 m. N.) the mouth of the North Sea Canal. Zand— voort is provided with cafés, music— halls, and the usual “ distractions ” of a sea—side village. Rly. N. from Haarlem to Alkmaar and the Helder, through the most ’ primitive part of the country (Rte. 4). The main line turns E., crossing the Spaarne on a bridge of iron, with six openings; the two middle ones have a swing bridge of a very simple and solid construction, which opens and shuts both openings at the same time, to render the passage of vessels as rapid as possible, as between 14 and 15 thousand pass through an- nually. The whole bridge weighs up- wards of 110 tons, and the machinery for moving it is so perfect, that one man turns it easily in 2 min. The bridge is shut only during the passage of the train: a self-acting signal is attached to it. The line throughout, between Haar- lem and Amsterdam, is formed on fascines. Where the railway traverses pools of water, the fascines alternate with beds of rubble, and were held together by stakes and wattles, until the weight of the earth laid upon them became settled and the mass consoli- dated. The causeway, elevated above . the surrounding country, is carried ‘ along the summit of a dyke, originally i constructed of prodigious strength, to I restrain the waters of the Haarlem Lake, now converted into a Folder or i sunk meadow, and scattered over with 1 neat houses, built since the drainage ‘ .was efi‘ected, from among which rise the tall chimneys of several pumping- engines. From the 15th cent. a body of water : called the Lake of Haarlem spread it- : self over, and, in fact, swallowed up, a ‘ LRoate 3.—-Zanda00rt. 47 large portion of the districts known as the Rijn and Amstel—land. Previous to that time the lake can scarcely be , said to have existed, except that a spot in the middle of it was then occupied by a marsh of considerable extent. Several villages, originally at a dis- tance from the water, were surrounded by it, and compelled to assume a sort of amphibious existence, half in and half out of the water. The lake at length expanded over an area of ground 11 leagues in circumference. ' Nothing but the strength and perfec— tion of the dykes prevented the bor- dering districts, already partly below the level of the waters, from being swallowed up in ruin. The Dutch States-General at length sanctioned a plan for converting the bed of the lake into arable and pasture land. Operations werecommenced in the spring of 1840, by forming a water- tight double rampart 01' dyke and ring canal round the lake, into which the water was pumped up, and discharged through the sluices at Katwijk, the Spaarne, and Halfweg, into the sea. Three enormous pumping-engines have been erected, one near Warmond, another opposite the old entrance of the Spaarne into the lake, and the third to the S.E. of Halfweg Stat, and be- tween it and Slooten. The latter may thus be conveniently visited by rly. The average depth of the lake was 13 ft. below the general level of the surface water of the canal and water- courses conducting to the sea-sluices._ The area was 45,230 acres; the esti- mated quantity of water to be pumped out about 800 or 1000 million tons. At the end of 4 years’ pumping, in- terrupted at times by the difficulty of expelling the water through the canal into the sea whenever the wind blew strongly from the N. and N.W., the lakesbed was laid entirely dry in 1853 ——as dry as any land in Holland can be. Nearly the whole of it has been sold at prices varying from 151. to 21L. per acre. / The site of Ham-lem lake is now a Folder, and its basin is covered with rich crops—meadow and grass—and occupied by numerous hamlets and, is 2-,, ,. "48' I to 7250. It' feeds 2000 horses, 5786 horned cattle, 9000 sheep and pigs. It. ,is kept dry by the aid of the three monster steam~engines, at a cost not much exceeding 23. an acre per ann. They maintain the surface of tne water in the drains at 18 in. below the gene- ral level of the bottom. The district thus laid bare, however, is subject, especially in summer, to low fever, owing to the exhalatious from the soil. The engine called the Leeghwater (in honour of a Dutch engineer. who first proposed to drain the lake in 1623), which is near Warmond, was the first erected (1848). It lifts easily 11 pumps, each of 63-iu. diameter, with a rise of 13 ft; the not load of water lifted being 81'? tons, and the discharge 63 tons per stroke. The other two engines, called the Cruquius and Van Lynden, after two celebrated men who at various periods interested themselves in promoting the drainage of the lake, have about 100 horse- power more than the Leeghwater. The engines were constructed at Hayle Foundry in Cornwall. The approach to Amsterdam, over causeways traversing a broad expanse of water, resembles that which leads to Mexico. Another coincidence is that the Spaniards were engaged in a nearly similar contest in both places. During the siege of Haarlem there were fre- quent combats of an almost amphi- bious character. partly in boats, partly on the causeways, between the Dutch and Spaniards, exactly like those which took place between Cortes and the Mexicans. The Dutch had a second time occasion to resort to the like ex- pedient of flooding this part of the , country, to resist the armies of Louis XIV.; and the same thing was done in the war of the French revolution, Jan.1795. At 7 m. Halfweg Stat—halfway be- tween Haarlem and Amsterdam— there is a portage in the canal, here interrupted by the enormous sluiccs which previous to the drainage sepa- rated the waters of the Ij from those Route '3:—Half‘wey+Amstéi'dam. farmrstleadings. Its populatidn amounts Sect. 1: of the Haarlem Lake. The effect of opening them, and allowing the waters of.the Ij to enter the Haarlem Meer,. would have been to submerge a great: part of the province of Holland to a distance of 30 111., with an inundation covering not only the meadows, but even the dykes themselves. The safety of Amsterdam and the surroundng country from inundations depended upon the management of these sluices. . The railroad passes near the sluices, close to an old chateau called Zwanen- burg, now a beet-root sugar factory. The most conspicuous objects, on approaching the town from the land side, are the windmills, which are perched on many of the 26 bastions, now no longer of use as fortifications. The t‘osse surrounding the town is 80 ft. wide. The Drainage Works connected with the great North Sea Ship Canal have ConVerted the lake called Het 1; into dry land. In the centre of the dyke thus formed to protect the towr from being overwhelmed by the water: of the Ij, stands the 54: m. AMSTERDAM Central (tem porary) Stat. (B. 2). Buffet. Omnibu to the principal hotels. uncertain Cab, 7 0 cents. Porter for an ordinar; amount of luggage to any hotel excep the Amstel, 50 cents. Cloak-room,1l cents each package. 1 N DE K. 1m: Almshouses . . . . . . t Amstel river . . . . . Aquarium . . . . Arti ct Amicitia‘ . . . . . Bank of Amsterdam . . Barge dwellings . Blind Institute . . . . . Botanical Garden . . . . Broeker Huis . Canals . . . . . Central Rly. Stat. . . . Concert Gebouw De Ruiter, House of Diamoiui-euttiug . Dockyard . . Exchange . . Felix Merltis . Fish Market . Fodor Museum . Harbour and Quay Historic Gallery . .a.... .o...o.o. .ov-u-o .n...o...o... 9 ‘ j)“ ,1 ship. “a 1mm: :3 6 way 6(9 fi 3§G WI) "“0 East“ 6‘“ // 9'15 1 C .\ 1,] S i 5.1figgjiffi ( Dok [J ijk / ‘ 1/ Eli“)? V E! n 1 w I .,__"'A‘é§:nfl 1'] ,z ‘ ‘ ' I I 1., .. j‘ ”I :H" y .A c a 1‘ if); U 3‘ ' 9° wuupp wnvquwwwmpuvpmww p? .. . 1‘93”??? 9‘9?bfl??9‘?9?fi???‘9‘9‘ ?P. . ‘ l Zecmunahuop E. ....C. . “E. . 2 Euymfilv D. E. 3 A‘m'on (led "Iriek‘o'll‘t ‘ l 4' 12m Miue’um. EH!- 1 5 thism' ('11:!) E»&. ‘ PaysBas: { Tram ways . ....... 1 2 3 i 6 7 8 ' Eaxv; W'sfler. Jonah >11 v Jnhn Mun-u v, Jllvemarle J'treer. Holland. Jews’ Quarter . . . . 52 Lees Museum . . . . 59 Linnaeus Garden . . 60 Manufactures . . . 62 Montalbaans Tower 61 Monument. in the Dam. 51 Muide1 pocrt 60 National Industiy, Palace of 51 Naval School . . . 61 New Exchange . 59 Nieuwe Kerk . 51 Orphan Asylums . . 60 Oude Kerk . . . . 51 Park . . . . . 60 Plantage . . 59 I’roven Huizen . . . . 60 Rembrandt, Statue of . . . . 52 Roman Catholic Cuthcdial . . . 52 Royal Palace . . . 50 Rijks l ‘11trep6t . . 62 ltijks Museum 5?. St. Antonieswaag . 61 Schreijerstoren . . 61 Seaman’s Home . . 61 Six Collection . . . . . 59 gladhuis . . . . . . g}, m o ues. . . . .. ' 1317101 fiug Le, statue of . . . 52 University . . . . . 52 Vondels Park . . . . 60 Zeemanshoop . . . . . 62 Zoological Garden . . . . . 59 Amsterdam (365,000, or with sub— urbs 400,000), the principal city of Holland, is situated at the confluence of the river Amstel with the arm of the Zuider Zec called the Ij (pro- nounced Eye), which here is from 8 to 9 fathoms in depth, and forms a well- sheltered harbour. About one-fifth of its inhab. are Roman Catholics, and one-tenth Jews. Its ground-plan has somewhat the shape of the half of a spider’s web, or of a bent how; the straight line, representing the string, rests 011 the Ij, and the curved line forms it boundary on the land side. It is surrounded by a semicircular canal or wide fosse, and within the city are 4 other great canals (Grachten), all running in curves, parallel with the outer one. They are called Prinsen Gracht,Keizers Gracht,Heeren Gracht, and Singel, the last being the inner- most. The Keizcrs Gracht is 140 ft. wide. They are lined with handsome houses; each of the first 3 is at least 2 in. long, and in their buildings as well as dimensions may bear compa- rison with the finest streets in Europe. The town is 12 m. in circumference. The 70 small canals which intersect it [Holland, 1888.] Route 3.—Amsterdam. 49 in all directions divide it into 90 islands, and are traversed by 250 bridges. The cost of repairing the bridges and dykes, and of cleansing and clearing the canals, in Amster- dam, amounts to several thousand guilders daily. This will be better understood when it is known that, were it not for the most skilful man- agement of sluices and dykes, Amster- dam might be submerged at any mo- ment. All things considered, it is one of the most wonderful cities in Europe. In the strange intermix- ture of land and water it may be com- pared to Venice; but the houses are almost all of brick, and the canals differ from those of Venice in being lined with quays. The whole city, its houses, canals, and sluices, are founded upon piles ; which gave occasion to Erasmus to say that he had reached acity whose inhabitants, like crows, lived on the tops of trees. The upper stratum is literally nothing more than bog and loose sand; and until the piles are driven through this into the firm soil below, no structure can be raised With a chance of stability. In 1822 the enormous corn warehouses, originally built for the Dutch East India Com- pany, actually sank down into the mud, fiom the piles havm given way. They contained at the time: m01e than 70,000 cwt of com; a weight which the foundation beneath was incapable of supporting. In 1886a similar fate threatened the *Central Rly. Stat. (B. 4) then on the point of completion, which actually sank several feet and had to be partially rebuilt. To form an adequate substruction for this fine building, piles 50 ft. long and millions of tons of sand had been laid in the river, in spite of which precautions these serious settlements Occurred. The havens and canals are shallow, being about 8 ft. deep at ordinary water. They are, therefore, fit for the Rhine vessels and Dutch coasters, but do not admit vessels for foreign trade. These lie along the booms and in front of the town, and the goods are trans- ferred by means of the numerous canals of the city. There is a good deal of E 5O mud deposited at the bottom of the canals, which when disturbed by the barges produces a most noisome efflu- vium in hot weather. when the water is said to “grow.” Machines are con- stantly at work to clear out the mud. Mills have also been employed to give an artificial motion to the waters, and prevent their becoming stagnant; but the same object is now attained by more simple means. To efi‘ect a cir- oulation in the canals is most essential to the health of the inhabitants. The Amstel at its entrance into thecity is 11 in.below the mean level of the Ger- man Ocean, whose lowest tide is only 1% ft. lower than the river. It is therefore evident that the canals can be emptied. and that partially. only at low water. The central Damrak, running N. and S. to the Ij, is the point of discharge. At high water the sluices which admit the Amstel into the town are closed for a short time, and the sea-water is allowed then to circulate through the town, until it is again expelled by the river. The enormous dams thrown up since 1851 between the town and the Ij, resist the influx of the sea into the mouths of the canals, and are pro- vided with flood-gates of the strongest construction, to withstand the pres- sure of high tides. They also form 2 great basins, Oosterlik and Westerlik Dock, capable of receiving 1000 vessels. Several of the smaller canals are being gradually tilled up, by which the peculiar aspect of the city beComes somewhat changed. The Amstel river is a great trunk of navigation. It is embankcd, and navigable 11m., to the boundary of the district, where it divides into 2 branches, which unite with numerous canals. There was formerly a castle near the mouth of the broad stream, to protect which one of the lords of Amstel at the beginning of the 13th centy. built towers and bridges (whence Amstel-dam). On the open central square called the Dam, the busiest part of the city, stands the Route 3.———Amsterdam : Royal Palace ; Sect. I. Royal Palace (open daily 9 A.M. to 3 P.M., 50 cents, tower 50 cents extra), formerly The Stadhm's, a vast; and imposing edifice of stone, standing upon 13,659 piles driven 70 ft. deep into the ground. The architect was Van Campen; the first stone was laid in 16{S, and the building finished in 1655. It was originally occupied by the magistracy, for town councils and judicial tribunals. During the reign of Louis Buonaparte it became his palace (1808), and the King of the Netherlands resides in it when- ever he visits Amsterdam. The main entrance is behind. The treasures of the once celebrated bank of Amster- dam, which used to regulate the ex- changes of Europe, were kept in the vaults below the building. It is chiefly remarkable for one grand Hall, the Ball-room, occupying the centre of the building, lined with white. Italian marble, 120 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, and nearly 100 ft. high. The sculp- tured has-reliefs which adorn the building are by Arthur Quellz’n, and deserve notice as works of art, those especially which adorn the two pedi- ments; many of those in the interior are appropriate and well executed: thus over the door of the room which was the secretary’s is a dog watching his dead master, and a ti gure of Silence with her fingers on her lips,asemblems of fidelity and secrecy. The Bank- rupt Court has a group representing Daedalus and Icarus—in allusion to rash speculations and their ruinous consequences. The paintings in imi- tation of sculpture, by do W/t, are admirable. In the Audience Chamber is a large picture, by ll'appn's and Iz‘clrlzout, of Van Speyk blowing up his ship. Several of the rooms are adorned with handsome chimney- pieccs, and with pictures by Gov. Flinck, Bro'nchho-rst, and Ferd. Bol. The *View from the Tower is the best to afl‘ord a tolerably correct idea of this wonderful city, with its broad canals, avenues of green trees running through the heart of the town. houses with forked chinmcys and projecting gables, many of them bowing forward Holland. or leaning backwards, from subsidence in their foundations. Beyond these the line of the North Sea Canal is seen. The horizon extends on the N. side over the Zuider Zee, over the Ij, to the numerous windmills and red roofs of Zaandam, the N. Holland canal and the towers of Alkmaar; S. over the site of the Haarlem Meer, now ploughed by the share and no longer by the keel; SE. appear the towers of Utrecht and Amersfoort; and \V. the spire of Haarlem, with the straight canal and railway pointing towards it. In the middle of the Dam rises a granite Monument, erected in 1856, to the Dutch soldiers who fell in the campaign of 1830—31, and called the Cross of Metal, from the name of the Dutch war-medal of that date. The Stadhuis, or Town Hall, on the Oudezijde Voorburgwal, built in 1578, served for the Admiralty until 1795, and formerly contained some celebrated corporation pictures and municipal portraits, now in the Rijks Museum. There yet remain a few paintings and curiosities worth notice, but the building must be visited when the courts are not sitting, before 9 or after 4. (Small fee.) The Exchange, with Corinthian portico, opened in 1845, is a handsome edifice in front of the palace: its con- struction was a work of great dififi- culty on account of the looseness of the boggy soil, which caused the foun- dations to give way. 2 o’clock is the daily hour of high change. (Adm. 25 cents.) The commercial aristo- cracy of Amsterdam, at the present day, are as much devoted to dealing in Stocks as to mercantile transac- tions, investing enormous capital in state loans. During the last week in August the Exchange is given up to the boys of Amsterdam as a play- ground, in memory of a Spanish plot against the city in 1622, discovered here by some children at play. The Palace of National Industry, a permanent Exhibition building, near Route 3.——Stadhm's ; Nieuwe Kerk. 51 the Amstel, is of glass and iron, and is surrounded by a garden. It was foundedfby an eminent Israelite (died 1866) by whom many of the recent improvements in Amsterdam were planned, and whose name is preserved in the new broad and handsome Sar- phati-straat. The Churches of Amsterdam, stripped of almost every decoration at the Reformation, are in themselves rather barren of interest, forming a complete contrast to the richly orna- mented structures of Belgium. The Oude Kerk (Old Church), in the Warmoes Straat, founded in the 14th centy., has 3 fine windows of painted glass, executed by Digman between 1549 and 1648; the tombs of several Dutch admirals; a list of the persons killed in Amsterdam by the Anabaptists (1535), and a fine set of chimes. The Organ is esteemed by many not inferior in tone to that of Haarlem. “ The tones are rich, firm, and brilliant. It has 68 stops, 3 rows of keys, and a full complement of pedals. In short, it is a first-rate in- strument, finished about 1760, by Batti, of Utrecht.”—H. F. 0. ‘ The Nieuwe Kerk (so called, though built in 1408), on the Dam, close to the palace, is one ~of the finest churches in Holland, ending E. in a chevet of 7 chapels, but was much damaged by fire in 1576. It has. a fine open screen of brass, and a ceiled wooden roof. The place of the high altar is occupied by a monument of Admiral de Rafter (1676), the com- mander who sailed up the Medway and burnt the English ships at Chatham, who at different times con- tended with the English admirals Blake, Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who commanded the Dutch at the battle of Solebay. He is styled, in his epitaph, “ immensi tremor Oceani.” On one of the pillars in the choir is the bust of Adm. Bentinckfilkilled in the battle of the Doggerbank, 1781; in the S. aisle is an inscription to the poet Vondcl (1679); and near the en- trance is a monument to Van Speyk, 5.2 who blew up himself and his ship in the Schelde (1831), rather than yield to the Belgians. The splendidly carved pulpit, with its huge sound- ing-board, was executed by Albert Vincken Brinck, in 1619. The churches in Holland are, per- haps, more numerously and regularly attended than even in England. The sermons to be preached on Sunday are announced beforehand in placards, like playbills. The congregation sit during the sermon with their hats on or off, just as they please. In inOst of the churches service is performed 3 or 4 times on Sunday. The form of religion is chiefly Dutch Presby- terian, though there are many Luther- ans; the Government aids all, as well as the Scotch Presbyterian. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, near the stat., is an imposing structure of brick and sandstone, with a large octagonal lantern, cleverly contrived W. porch, and lofty apse rising straight from the water’s edge. The Jews, who form a large part of the population, reside mostly in a par- ticular quarter, and have 10 Syna- gogues: the most splendid is that of the Portuguese, in the Muidcrstraat (D. 6), which is worth visiting. The Jews of Amsterdam are, from their wealth, a Very influential body. Ba- ruch Spinoza, the metaphysician, was a native of Amsterdam, and son of a Portuguese Jew (163:2). The Valkcnburger Straat (centre of C. 6) runs through the heart of the Jews’ quarter; and on a Friday evening, when all the neighbourhood is marketing in the midst of filth and squalor, the scene is better imagined than witnessed. A fine bronze Statue of Rembrandt, by Royer, was erected in the Rem- brandtsplein in 1852. The house in which he lived (No. 68, Sint An- thonies Breestraat, N. of the Waterloo Plein, D. 5), is markcd by a memorial tablet. S. of the Remb ‘andtsplein is the Thorbcckeplein, named after a celebrated Dutch liberal minister, to whom a statue has been here erected. Route 3.—Amsterdam : .Rz'jks Museum. Sect. I. The University (D. 5) has a flour- ishing School of Science, well fitted up with lecture-rooms and labora- tories. The adjoining Library con- tains many valuable printed works and MSS. Adm. daily 10-3, except during the height of summer. The *RIJKs MUSEUM (G. 5), begun in 1877 from the designs of Cur/pet's, in a style of Transition from Gothic to Renaissance. was formally opened by the Home Minister on behalf of the King in July, 1885. The build- ing, which is of brick and freestone, chiefly from Belgium, rests upon a sub-foundation of 8000 piles. and is handsomely sculptured on the ex- terior with cmblcmatical tigurcs, and adorned with groups in ornamental tilcs. Busts of the great Dutch painters are ranged above the win- dows, and the open planted space which surrounds the Museum is bounded by a wrought-iron railing. The colhctions comprise——(a) the pictures formerly at the 'l‘rippenhuis; (b) the Museum Van der Hoop; (c) Municipal paintings and antiqui- ties from the Town Hall, lent by the city; (4?) the Museum of Modern Paintings from lluarlcm; (e) the Dutch Historical Museum, once csta~ blishcd at the Hague; (f) Drawings and lilngravings; (g) l‘lastcr Casts: (h) Library. The four latter sections are arranged on the ground floor, and approached by separate entrances, E. on the 1., and \V. on the rt , an urchcd passage or tunnel bisceting the plan. From each entrance a handsome staircase ascends to the Vcstibllle of the (Grand (lath-ry, which is built over the tunnel, and gives access to the various saloons of pictures. At a corner of the basement. rcachcd from the Collection of lilngravings, is a convenient *Bufl'et, where luncheon may be obtained at a fixed and mo« derate tariil‘. Sandwich (breodje mct vrleesch) and glass of beer, 40 cents. Catalogues in English are sold at the E. entrance and in the vestibule on the first floor. price 1 florin. Adm. daily except Mon., May lst to Sept. 1. Runs )IL’SEUM.—FIRST FLOOR. 1 In. Entrance Hull. 1;, 3. 4, 5. Large Dutch Paintings. 0 7. P 9. 10. ll. 12. 13. 14. Rembrandt Hall. Model of Charlemagne’s Hall at S. Scr- vatius, Munstricht. . Foreign Schoois. Depository. Old Dutch School. Dutch School, 16th cent. Dupper Legacy. Van de I’ull Legacy. Anatomical Pictures. ‘ 15, 16, 17, 18. Cabinet Paintings. 19. Portraits : Van Ciners Legacy. 20. Portrait Hall. 21. Crayons: Liotard Legacy. 22, '14, 25. Cabinet Paintings. 23. Portraits of Dutch Musmrs. 26. Van de Poll Portraits, &c. 27. Van der Hoop Collection. 28, 29, 30, 31. Modern Pictures. 3'2. Corridor. 33. Old Dutch Governor‘s Room. 34. Gold Leather Room. 54 30th, 10 to 5; Oct. 1st to Apr. 30th, 10 to 4; free. Bags of every description, even if slung over the shoulder, as well as umbrellas. 630., must be left in the cloak-room, but no charge is made. The original Trippenhuis collection was formed by Louis Buonaparte in 1808. It was enriched in 1870 by the large and important bequest of L. Dupper, and afterwards by a similar legacy from J. S. H. Van de Poll. Upon the construction of the present building the Van der Hoop Collection was also added, and the modern gal- lery of the Pavilion VVelgclegen was imported from Haarlem. The three large legacy collections. having been arranged in separate rooms, are indi- cated, for convenience of reference, by the letters I), P, and H. Asselyn : Cavalry skirmish — a masterpiece of its style (D).—Ita1ian landscape (H). Backhuysen: The Ij near Amster- dam (H).—View of the Ij, from the landing-place; of great brilliancy and clearness.—Stormy sea; warm, clear, and careful without being smooth. The *Zuiderzee (D); and the *Ij near Amsterdam (D).——The Pensionary John de Witt embarking on board the fleet in 1665. Beelt: Market-place at Haarlem H Beerstraaten: Boatmen’s Exchange, in winter. Bega : Rustic concert. -— Grace before meat (H). Berchem: Two Italian landscapes (H). Italian landscape; almost a miniature.—*WinterlandscapeUGlT). of unusual truthfulness. Another winter landscape, a little smaller.— *The three flocks; cool, skilful, and true to nature.—*Floeks crossing a ford; both dated 1656.——Italian ruins P . ( £erok-heyde, Gerrit: *View of Am- sterdam (H).—Flower-market (H).— View of the Dina—Demolished house in Amsterdam (P).——*View on the Heerengracht (P). Berck~heyde, Job: The Spaarne at Haarlem (D). Route 3.———Amsterdam : Pictures ; Sect. I. Bergen: Landscape and animals, with Devil’s Bridge (D).—*Shepherd- boy and flock.—*0xen fighting. Bloemaert: Egg dealer. Bloot : Lawyer in his chambers. Bol, Ferd.: Mother with two children—Admiral de Ruyter.—Go- vernors of the Hospital for Lepers.—— Portrait of Roelof Meulenaer (P). Both: *Italian landscape (D). —— Farin-yard.——*Smaller Italian land- scape. — *Large Italian landscape, with ferry—Italian landscape at sun- set (H).—Painterstudying from nature (H). Bourse: Interior, resembling De Hooch. Brakenburgh: Feast of S. Nicolas. -—Public-house. Breenbergh: Married couple in a landscape (H). Brekelenkam : Fisherman and weaver.—Two men sitting by the fire.——*Monsetrap (D).—Oonfidonces (P).—Threcwomenrcading.—*’I‘ailor- ing (H).———Mother and child (H). Brouwer : Village carousal.— *Peasants fighting; golden in tone. Capelle: Sailing in company. Cnyp, A. : *Hilly landscape (D).— Cattle (H).—View of Dordrccht (H) at sunrise. Cuyp, J. G. (or Keyser): Family group; eldest of 4: boys holds pony. Dirk Hals: Lady playing the harp- sichord (H). Does: *Shepherd~boy and girl.— Maternal love. Landscape with animals (D). Dou: *His own portrait (D).— *Eveuing school; the most important of his candle-light cfl‘ects. No less than i ditferent lights are introdneed into the picture, and variously thrown upon the. tw'elve figures which com- pose it.—*'l‘he Hermit.»—(}irl with candle, prying. Lady and gentleman. —()val portrait (1’). ——*l*‘isherman s Wife (II).—*ller1nit (H). Douwen: Combat of horsemen. Droochsloot: Lodging of the poor. Dubbels: *Sea piece (H).———*River bank.-——*Calm (P). Dusart : Wandering minstrels. —— *Fish-market. — *Kermesse (1)). —-— I *Pnblic-house.—-*The mother (1’). Holland. Eeckhout: Woman taken in adul- tery.-—Young sportsman resting (H). Ekels, the Elder: View of Amster- dam (P). Ekels, the Younger: Poor author, writing, in his shirt-sleeves (P). Everdingen: Landscape in Nor- way (D).—-—*Landscape.—*Landscape in Norway, with figures by Berckem (P).—Scene in Norway (H). Fabritius (or Brest): Beheading of S. J ohm—Portrait of an architect, with his wife and child. Flemish School: Adoration of the Magi ; king presents a half-open jar. Flinck: Isaac blessing Jacob; ten- der and powerful.——Festival of the civic guard. Gossaert : Portrait of Philip of Burgundy, Bp. of Utrecht. Goyen : *River bauk.—*The Mouse and Dordrecht (D).—The Valkenhof at N ijmegen.—*Landscape (D). Grifiier: River bank. Haekaert: *Avenue of white pop- lars. —Forest (D).—Landscape and animals (P).—Landscape (H). Hagen : *Landscape. — Landscape (H). Hals: Jovial man.———Thc painter and his wife—The Fool (D).-——Poro trait of an old lady, holding a book ). Helst, Bart. van der: Male and female portrait (1646).—P0rtrait of Gerard Bicker Andriesz. “The Banquet of the Archers, re- presenting the City Guard of Amster- dam met to celebrate the Treaty of Miinster, 1648; an event which, as it definitively recognised the indepen- dence of the Dutch Republic, was justly considered a subject worthy the pencil of the artist. The figures, 25 in number, are portraits; the names are inscribed below, but there are no persons in any way distinguished among them. One of them represents the lieutenant of the company, and his dress is the uniform of the Dutch sehutterij (civic guard) of that period. “ This is, perhaps, the first picture of portraits in the world. comprehending more of those qualities which make a perfect portrait than any other I have ever seen. They are correctly drawn, Route 3.—Pictures. 55 both head and figure, and well co- loured, and have a great variety of action, characters, and countenances; and those so lively and truly express- ing what they are about, that the spectator has nothing to wish for.". Portraits of 3 members of the Archers’ Guild, seated at a table, holding the prizes for the best shots, a seeptre, a goblet, and a chain; a fourth man, said to be the painter, a. woman, and a dog. In the back- ground 3 young marksmen. “An admirable picture.”—R. Portrait of Mary, daughter of Charles 1., wife of William IL. Prince of Orange, and mother of William III. of England. Portrait of Andries Bicker, burgo- master of Amsterdam. Hemert: Portrait of Dirk Meule- naer (P). Heuseh: Three beautiful Italian landscapes (D). Heyden: Stone bridge. —- Draw- bridge.——Canal.—Figurcs by A. van de Velde.—-View of Amersfoort (H). Hobbema : * Water— mill (H).— * Landscape with cottage (H). —- *lVater-mill (D). Holbein: Portrait of Erasmus:— Portrait of Robert Sidney. Hondecoeter: Dcad birds—Small birds and f ungi.—~Philosophic magpie. —~Frightcned hen—Floating feather ; unfortunately named, the feather being quite insignificant—Dead game (P). Honthorst: The jovial musician.— Mocking of Christ. Hooch: *Duct, lute and pianoforte (H).—*The beer-cellar.—*'i‘hree in- teriors, and the outside of a house (H). Hoogstraten: *The wedding gar- ment—Sick lady (H). Huchtenburgh: Cavalry charge. Huysum: Landscape. . Jansen: Woman cutting bread (H). J ardin : Five trustees (1669) ; taste- ful and well drawn. “They are all dressed in black; and being upon a light background, have a wonderful relief. The heads are executed with a most careful and masterly touch, and the repose and harmony of colour- ing spread over the whole picture are admirable.”-—R. *Italian landscape (D).—Trumpeter drinking at the inn. 56 —*Muleteers.—*Peasant~ winnowing corn; silvery—Landscape (H). Jong: Domestic scene (H). Kalf : Flagon and lemons. Kessel : *Forest (D).—Torrent (P). Keyser: Family portrait group.— Portrait of man on horseback (P).— Male portrait (H). Klomp: Landscape with cattle (H). Koninck: Landscape (D). — En- trance to a wood. Lingelbach : Italian harbour. — Camp (D).—Dentist on horseback (H (D).—Hunting scene (P). ’ Macs: *Woman spinning (D).——The reverie; young girl at a window.— Woman spinning (H). Meer, J. van der (the Younger) : Shepherd boy asleep. Metsu : Old woman asleep over her book—The old drinker. The break- fast.—The Sportsman‘s gift (H).—Old woman, girl, and boy, with slicedv salmon (H). Mierevelt : Portrait of Prince Mau- rice of Orange in armour.—Portrait of Frederick V., King of Bohemia.— Portrait of Jacob Cats. Mieris, Franz: Frailty (D). — *Jacob's dream (P).—-Grrocer’s shop. Mignon : Still lite—Nosegay, upset by cat—Flowers (D).——Fruit (D).— all excellent—Fruit (II). Moeyart : Choice. of a lover. Molenaer: Evening prayers (H). Moni: The flower fancier. Moreelse: The little princess; a lovely child, with a dog. Moucheron: Italian landscape (D). —Smaller landscape, with figures by A. van de Veldc. Murand: *The old farm; powerful, and warm in colour. Musscher : Family scene (H). Naiveu: S. Jerome. Neefs: Church interior, by torch- light. Neer, A van der: Town and canal in winter—River bank in winter (H). —-*Landscape (H). Netsoher, CaSpar : *Mother and children. Netscher, Constantine: Portrait of a Lady (P). Ostade, A.: *Artist in his studio—— *Travellers’ rest—“Quack (D).— Route 3.—Amsterdam: Pictures. Sect. I. Baker (D).—-*Peasants at the fire- side (H). Ostade, Isaac: *Rustic inn (H).— *Village inn. Pool: Woman cleaning a fish, and child. Potter: *Orpheus charming the animals.~—*Shepherds and flocks.— Shepherd's huh—Landscape with ani— mals (P).—Littlc dog (H).—Bear hunt; too large for his style.—-*Horses grazing (H).—*Cattlc in a meadow Potter, Pieter: Straw-cutters. Pynaeker: Shores of Italian lake.— Landscape (D).—Pilgrimage (D). Quentin Massys : *Virgin and Child. Rembrandt: *Portrait of Elizabeth J acohs Bus—Syndics of the Drapers’ Guild ‘iu 1661.——The Jewish bride; powerful, but not pleasing (H). The “Night Watch probably repre- sents a company of archers. with their leader, Captain Kok, going out to shoot at the butts. It appears to have been much damaged. The name of Rembrandt is upon it, below the foot of the girl in white, with the date, 16%;). Another first—rate painting is the *Portraits of 5 Syndics of the Cloth- makers’ Company and their servant. They are Seated round a table, appa- rently conversing on matters of busi— ness. The heads are finely painted, particularly the one nearest to the right. It is pronounced by some critics to be the finest “portrait group ” in the world. Rietschoof: Calm; and Tempest. Ring: Still-life; admirable. Romeyn: Flocks by a river bank.— Halt at a fountain.——Flocks reposing. —La11dseape with animals (D).——Same subject, smaller (P). Rubens : Helen Fourment, painter’s second wife (H). Ruisdael, J .: large landscape (H). —Yiew near \Vyk by Duurslede (H). —Wooded landscape (H).—*The tor- rent, with castle on each height.— *Castle of Bentheim. — *Winter (D). —Forest (D).-—Vir-\v of Haarlem (D). Ruisdael, Solomon: *The halt (D). -—*Yillage public house. Ryckaert: Cobbler’s workshop. the 0 Holland. Saenredam: St. Mary’s at Utrecht; interior and exterior. Saftleven, 0.: *Peasants at an inn. Saftleven, H.: River bank—View on the Rhine—Oratory in a wood.— "‘Hilly landscape (P) Santvoort: Lady—Governors of the House of Correction—Portraits of Anna Alewyn, aged 8, and her brother Martin, aged 5. Schalcken: *Every one to his taste (Boy spilling yolk ot' egg).—*Two boys learning to smoke.~—*Girl with lantern, and boy blowing brasier.— *Varicty 50f tastes—~William III., a portrait by candle-light. H. W'alpole says that the artist made the King hold the candle until the tallow ran down and burnt his hand. Slabbaert : Grace before meat. Schieblius: Landscape. Slingelandt: *The rehearsal. Snyers: Girl holding tail of salmon ). Sorgh: Lute player (D).——*Tempest on the Meuse (D).—*Vegetable mar- ket (P).—*Fish market (H). Staveren : *Schoohnaster (D).—-—Old man praying. Steen: The prince’s birthday (D). ——*Feast of S. Nicolas, when the Dutch make presents to their children who behave well, while the naughty ones are left without anything, or re- . ceive a whipping. The story is ad- mirably told in this picture, which is a chef-d’oeuvre of the inaster.———*Parrot’s cage. —-Village wedding. — Quack—— ”Baker and his wife, with one of the painter’s boys blowing a horn.——Sick lady (II). — *Family party (H).— Drinking party (H).——After a drink- ing bout (H).—Drinking couple, with long glass (H).-—Quack (D).—Spend- thrift (D).——*Scullery-maid.—*Danc— ing lesson (P). Stoop: Hunting party (D), Storck: Nyenrode Castle. Tempel : Female portrait (H). Teniers: Guardhouse.—Evening.— Village ale-house. —— Temptation of S. Anthony.—*Village fair (H). — *liuslic scene (H).—Gamesters (H). Tor Borch: *Boy with dog (H). Ex- cellent replica or copy; original at Munich—*Puternal counsel. The Route 3.-—Pictm‘es. 57 daughter‘s back only is seen, but the whole attitude shows that she is strug- gling with her feelings (See Kugler). Tol: Captured mouse. Ulft: Italian harbour.—-Market in Italy (P). Utrecht, A. van: Fruit and flowers, with lobster and monkey. Vandyck: Portrait of J. B. Franck (H).—* Prince William of Orange, as a boy, with Mary Stuart, daughter of Charles I. Velde, A. van de: *Ferry.—Land- scape. —*Landscape with cat tle (H).—— The painter and his family in the country (H). Velde, W. van de: The parting gun tH).—Ca1m sea (H).—*Ca1m (D). —*Fresh breezc.—*Ca1m (P).—View of Amsterdam, from the Schrei j ershoek Tower; dated 1686. “ One of the mOst capital works of this artist.”—R. Two paintings of the sea fight be- tween the Dntch and English, which lasted 4 days, in which the Dutch were victorious: one represents the battle between De Ruiterand General Monk, in which 4 English line-of- battle ships were taken. The calms at sea are painted with the most ex~ quisite clearness, and with that won- derful effect of distance over the surface of the water which is the peculiar excellence of Vandevelde. Velde, E. van de: Landscape and river. Venne: Fishing for souls —very curious. Verboom: Forest with small stream. —*Cross roads (D). Vercolje : Family concert. Vermeer : Lady reading (II). Verschuier: Arrival of Charles II. at Rotterdam. Verwilt : Portrait of admiral’s son. Victors: *Pork butcher (H).—Dcnt- ist (H).-—-Joseph’s dream. Vois, A. de : Violin player, drinking. Vries: Country lane. Weenix: Game, with monkey and dog—Game, with implements of the chase—Game and fruit (H). Witte : Church interior (H).—Land- ing on the stairs. Wouwerman: Peasants fighting.— l’easants victorious.——-— Camp (D).— 58 Eta 3.‘——-Amsterdam: Engravings ; Historical Relics ; Sect. I. *SkittiSh horse. -— Heath. -— Riding school. — *Hawking party. —- Horse nd. Wyck: Cottage interior. Wynants : *Landscape, with sports- men. —— Landscape (D).—*'l‘he farm. —*Landscape and sheep. Four good landscapes (IL) The modern pictures are. of very unequal merit. Seine of the best are included in the Van der Hoop collec- tion, but the great majority came from Haarlem. The most important artists appear to be Ape], Artz, Barbiers, Calamé, Diday, Haas, Jansen, Knoll, Kobell, Kruseman, Moi-renhout, Na- vez, Ravenswaay, Roelofs, Bonner- knip, Roth, Sadée, Schelt'hout, Schel~ tema, Schotel, Springer, Ten Kate, Van Beest, Van Os, Verbroeckhoven, Vermeulen. and Versehuur. The finest painters of the modern Dutch school are, however, the following :— Du Chattel, Israels, lievers, J. Maris (landscape), W. Maris (cattle), Mauve (landscape and cattle), Mesdag (sea pieces), N euyhuis (figures), and Vos. The ground floor contains various collections of interest. In the Central Court of the W. wing are Casts of Early Dutch Sculpture and Architec- ture. among which the most prominent position is assigned to the porch of S. Servatius at Mnastricht. a fine, rich early-pointed arch, with four statues on each side between the shafts. Be- hind this is a reproduction of the cele- brated tomb at Breda: and in other parts of the court are stalls, chancel- screens, organs, tombs, doorways, and other specimens of eeclesiologieal art, faithfully imitated from the original. Ascending a few steps, a room at the corner of the building has been fitted up as an Early Dutch Parlour, with old furniture, cabinets, and a tine landscape in Delft ware. The adjoin- ing Hall of the Admirals is hung with portraits of naval and military officers, and representations of 17th century battles. The *Collection of Engraving-s is most important and extensive. Orl- been enriched by many subsequent purchases, and now contains 150,000 prints, besides 400 original drawings, and as many illustrated volumes. A selection of the most interesting speci- mens has been arranged in cases on the walls and piers. Opening out of this Hall is the Library, consisting principally of works on the fine arts, with a Cabinet of Coins. In the centre of the E. Court are models of ships and other naval curio- sities, including a trophy from the stem of the celebrated British man-of- war Royal Charles, 100 guns, taken by the Dutch in 1667. Here also are a quantity of ancient musical instru- ments, old-fashioned carriages, &c., and groups of fishermen and peasants in Netherland costume. The corri- i . . dors surrounding this court are en- tirely devoted to an *Exhibition of Church Architecture, showing its de- Velopment and progress from the 8th to the 15th century. All details are copied from ancient buildings, still existing in Holland or Northern Ger- many. The series closes with a suite of rooms in illustration of municipal or domestic architecture, with imita- tions of the most remarkable ceilings, chimneys,\vainscotings, and mediaeval furniture, yet existing in the country. With this department have been in- corporated, as a loan collection, the objects formerly exhibited in the Ar- chaeological Museum, 135, Spui Straat. Among the most interesting of the Historical Relics, formerly at the Hague. are. the armour‘of Admiral de ltuiter, with the medal and chain given him by the States-General. The baton of Adm. Piet Hein. The armour ot' Adm. Tromp, with the marks of more than one bullet on it. The chairs of Jacqueline of Holland and of Old- enbarneveld, brought from his prison. The portrait and sword of Van b‘peyk, who blew up his vessel before Ant- werp in 1831 ; and the chair on which General Chasse‘ sat during the siege of the citadel. A portion of the bed on which the Czar Peter slept in his but at Zaandam. The shirt and waist— ginally formed at the Hague, it has coat worn by William III. of England Ti ‘ Holland. I the last three days of his life. A a specimen of the beggar’s bowl (jutte de . Gueum) which formed a part of the in- signia of the confederate chiel's who freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, and a ball of wood, full of nails, each driven in by one of the cont‘ederates when they swore to be faithful to one another and stedfast in the enterprise. ‘ The dress of Prince Fred. Henry, who shot himself by accident in 1604. long passed off as that in which William the Silent was assassinated. A large baby-house, fitted up to show the nature of a Dutch niénage, intended by Peter as a present to his wife. 5- w v w r—r- H.” Ham—1 so In April, 1888, a large Hall, the Concert Gebouw, was opened, affording accommodation for 1800 visitors, with an orchestra 700 strong. The private residence of Herr Six, 5 511, Heerengracht (E. 5), contains a a small *Collection of Cabinet Paintings, is almost every one of which is a gem. ) (Adm. daily; small fee.) Among the :I most remarkable works are Rem- 6 brandt’s %—length portrait of the Bur- g gomastcr Six, painted with great :1 power and effect; and of Anna Six, d his mother—G. Deu, A girl with a d basket of fruit, exquisitely finished. — —Mctsu, Fishwit’e.—Cuyp. Sunny :l landscape, ships and water; and a r n‘ioonlight view.—- V. der Nccr, Moon- iflight.——Hobbemu, Landscape—Rais- i dad, ditto.——Paul Potter, Cattle, with an milk-girl in the foreground—Jan EStecn, Jewish marriage. Excellent l’ specimens also by Adrian van Oslade, .3 De Hooch, Dusru't, Jan van der Meer l n can Delft (*Milkwoman, and *Street Lin Delft—both masterpieces, and h otherwise remarkable as being the nonly pictures of the artist which ‘ncontain figures); Koedz'jlc (Gold- ‘vweigher); Konz‘nck (Candle-light ef- sfects); Nic. Macs, Rachel Rug/sch (2 ii first-rate flower-pieces); Terburg, Jan 'o'van dcr Hayden, and ll'ouwerman. 2') The Fodor Museum on the Keizers- :Ijgracht (E. F. 5), bequeathed to the "i city by Mr. Fodor in 1860, contains Route 3,—Museums ; Promenades. 59 Bonheur, together with ancient and modern drawings, etchings, and en- gravings. They are preserved in a suite of well-lighted rooms; admis- sion, 50 cents; on Sunday, 25 cents. Open daily, 10 to 4 in summer; 11 to 3 in winter; catalogue 50 cents. The best among many pleasing landscapes, sea-pieces, skating scenes, &c., are those by De Camps, Karsen, Kobell, Koekkock, Leys, Lindlar, Ommeganck, Schelfhout, Schotel, Springer, Ten Kate, Van Os, Ver- schuur, and Waldorp. The Historic Gallery of Pictures, contributions by the principal Dutch artists of the day, in one of the rooms of the Artists’ Club, Arti ct Amicitz‘a’, on the Rokin, is open to the public on payment of 25 cents, and is well worth a visit. The collection is not perma- nent, many of the objects being, on loan (D. 4). Close by is the Lees Museum, or Subscription Read— ing-room, where the principal English, French and German papers and pe- riodicals are found. Strangers can be introduced by members. The society called Felix Meritis, from the first words of a Latin inscrip- tion placed upon the building, is founded and supported entirely by merchants and citizens. The build- ing is No. 3'24 in the Keizers Graeht (E. 3). In its nature it bears some resemblance to the Royal Institution in London. Lectures are given in various branches of art, science, and literature. There is a library, obser- ' valory, and collection of scientific in- srruments, together with a few casts, and a fine painting of an old woman by Nic. Macs. (Small fee.) Concerts are also occasionally given in the fine hall belonging to the society. A large new Exchange is to be erected on the chcmpt Damrak, opposite the Bible Hotel. PI:OMENADES.—Tlle Plantage (Plan- tation) at the end of the Heeren Gracht, surrounded by canals, and not far from the‘ dockyards (C. 7). E. of :1. modern paintings, including works of .lAry b'clzqz‘f'cr, Ache/zbach, and Rosa. this is the *Zoological Garden, founded 60 in 1838, which deserves avisit (admis- sion, 50 cents; Aquarium, 50 cents extra). The collection of animals is large, and includes specimens not seen in the Regent’s Park. It is 11 acres in extent, and a place of general resort with the upper classes on Sunday afternoons and Wednesday evenings. It has a spacious and excellent Mu— seum of shells, minerals, and skeletons well arranged, as also of Japanese cu- riosities. In the early spring may be witnessed some interesting operations in Fish—breeding. W. of the Plantagc is the Park, a private club and con- cert-room, to which strangers may be admitted by a member. Adjoining it is the Botanical Garden, connected with the University, and containing some tine tropical plants (Adm. 25 cents). Beyond the Aquarium to the E. is the Muiderpoort, the only city gate remaining of the 8 formerly ox- isting, which were rendered useless by the abolition of the excise duties (0. 8). Beyond the gateway a steam tram runs to the Linnaeus Garden (Concerts on Sunday evenings in summer; Adm. daily, 50 cents) and thence to Maiden. A little way outside the Leyden Barricrc, S. side of the city, is the *Vondels Park, laid out by private subscription. Here is a statue to Vondel, the national poet of Holland, though born at Cologne in 1587. The Broeker Huis, at the S. end of the Park, contains a collection of Dutch domestic curiosities, dairy farm implements, &c., principally from the village of Brock. (Adm. 50 cents.) Route 3.—Amsterdam : Amsterdam is remarkable for the number and extensive bounty of its Charitable Institutions, supported for the mest part by the voluntary con- tributions of its benevolent citizens. It is recorded that, when some one in conversation with Charles II. prog- nosticated speedy ruin to the city from the meditated attack of Louis XIV.’s armies, Charles, who was well acquainted with the Country from a long residence in it. replied, “ I am of opinion that Providence will preserve Amsterdam, if it were only for the great charity they have for their Sect. I. ‘ poor.” This city alone, it is said, numbers no fewer than 23 institutions of benevolence, including hospitals for the reception of the aged and infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, foundlings, &c., some of them attached to the churches of peculiar religions, others open to all sects without dis- tinction. At one time more than 20,000 poor people received their daily bread and board from charity. Begging is forbidden, and is severely punished. Some of the almshouses, such, for instance, as the hospital for Protestant old men and women, on the Amstel, look more. like princes" palaces than lodgings for poor people. The Burgher Orphan Asylum receives 700 or 800 children, boys and girls, until they are 20 years of age; and before they are sent out into the world they are instructed in some trade or profession. The orphan children of the difl‘erent asylunis are generally distinguished by a iarticular dress: those of the Protestant Burgher House (in which Van Speyk was brought up) wear black and red jackets; the girls of the Roman Catholic Orphan House wear black, with a white band round the head: the orphans educated in the Almosoniers Orphan House are dressed in black, and wear round the left arm the colours of the town a black, red, and white band. with a number. The intention of these cos- tumes is to prevent the children from entering playhouses, gin-shops, or other imprOper places; a cherc pe- nalty being inflicted on persons who should admit children thus attired. Charitable Institutions; There is a class of Provident Insti- tutions here and in other Dutch towns. called Proven Huizen (pro- viders’ houses). for the reception and comfortable maintenance of old men and women, who pay a comparatively small sum, proportioned to their age, for admittance, and are. supported in respectability to the end of their days. They form a Very suitable retreat for domestic servants, who by timely savings may obtain an entrance; in- deed, masters and mistresses some- 1.5- r-,-v - y y vv_,..,.w > deacons, who go round to all present, Holland . times reward old and faithful domes- tics by paying for their admission. The poor throughout Holland are generally supported by voluntary con- tributions. In all the churches collec- tions are made every Sunday by the carrying a little bag attached to the end of a stick. like a landing-net, with a monitory bell fixed to it, into which every person drops something accord- ing to his means. There are also Deaf and Dumb Asylums and Institutions for the Blind; while much of the charity formerly devoted to the erection of almshouses is now expended on whole- some dwellings for the labouring Route 3.—Blind Institute ; Fish Market. classes. Near the N. end of the Kloveniers Burgwal (D. 5) are the offices of the Society for the Public Welfare, which has branches all over Holland. It was founded at Edam in 1784, and has for its object the Education of the young; the Culture of adults, by means of instructive literature, read- ing rooms, 830.; and the Bestowal of honours and rewards upon deserving persons. The Blinden Instituut in the Vossins Straat, just outside the Vondelspark (E. 4), contains a highly interesting I"School for Children, which may be. visited on \Ved. 10-12. i The want of spring water, formerly severely felt in the city, is now rcme- . died by a lVater Company, established ' by British capitalists, who have con- ‘ veyed into Amsterdam pure water from i the Dunes, near Haarlem. A portion of the poorer inhabitants i live entirely in the cellars of the i houses. There is also a class who live i constantly upon the canals, making‘ their vessels their home. They keep their hogs, their ducks, and other domestic animals on board, and yet their cabins display the same neatness as the parlours of their countrymen on shore. Many of them have little gardens of tulips, hyacinths, anemones, and various other flowers. One of the most interesting spots in Amsterdam, from the bustle displayed 61 on it, is the Harbour and the Quay, along the bank of the Ij, near the Central Rly. Stat. The two enormous dykes or dams constructed at vast expense, nearly parallel with the shore, serve the double purpose of protecting a part of the town from in- undations to which it was previously exposed, and of gaining from the river a considerable space forming capacious ‘ basins or docks (Oostelvjk and Weste- lzjlc Dolr), capable of holding nearly 1000 vessels, and closed by large sluice-gates. The Fish Market, N. of the Nienwe Markt (C. 5), is worth a visit in the early morning, especially in the Her- ring season. The fishery, however, is sadly fallen off at present; scarcely 200 herring vessels are sent out from the whole of Holland, instead of 2000, the number employed in former days. Close to the market is the picturesque *old Weigh-house (St. Antonieswaag), now the station of the Fire Brigade. At the N. end of the Gelderschc Kade (B. 5) stands the antique Schreijers- toren (Criers’ Tower), so called because, being situated near the quay from which vessels used to set sail, it was a constant scene of lamentation at the departure of relatives and friends. It dates from 1482. The humble dwelling 0f the heroic Admiral De Rutter still exists, No. 131, Prins Hendrik liade (B. C. 5). Further 8., rising out of the water, is the old Montalbaans Tower. At the E. end of the Prins H. liade stands the Naval Academy (Kweck-school voor de Zeevaart), in which boys are pro- vided by the government with an education fitting them for the naval profession. In the yard attached to the building is a frigate fully rigged, and the dormitory is titted up like the between-decks ot' a man-of—war. The building (Springer architect, 1880) is in the Renaissance style. Adm. daily except Sun. and Wed.; closed in August. N.E., beyond the Seaman’s Home (C. (3, 7. Adm. daily 10—1), 8. long bridge leads to the island of Katten- 62 burg, on which is situated the National Dockyard (Lands, or Rijkswerf), the largest naval (lépOt and arsenal in Holland. Admission daily, 50 c.; closed from 12 to 2. The interesting models of ships and other naval curi- osities formerly preserved here have been removed to the National Museum. On the return a visit may be paid to the Rijks Entrepot (wharfs, ware- houses, &c., C. 6), stored with wine, coffee, sugar, rice, and other foreign imports (small fee). On the Dam (1. D. 4) stands the Zeemanshoop (Seamen’s Hope), built by an association of 300 members, chiefly ship captains, with which a charitable foundation for the benefit of their widows and orphans is con- nected. Many of the first people of Amsterdam are enrolled as members. The Manufactures of Amsterdam comprehend cotton and woollen stuffs, furniture, iron and metal Works, re- fineries of carnphor (the coagulated sap of a tree, found principally in China), manufactories of smalt (a blue glassy substance produced from cobalt: the artificers of Amsterdam alone know how to refine it in the best manner, by grinding it minutely, and by other methods, which are kept secret. They produce a great variety of shades in the colour, which is chiefly employed in painting china). Many other arti- cles are nmnufactured here, by methods believed to be known only in Amster— dam; such as cinnabar or vermilion, rouge, white lead, and aquafortis. Gold lace, and a great variety of scents and perfumed oils, are also objects of 001m merce. The art of diamond-cutting was for a long time confined to the Jews of Amsterdam and Antwerp. posed not to have been known in Europe previous to the employment of diamond-dust by Louis de Ber- guem in 1576. The diamond-mills at Amsterdam are numerous, and being exclusively the property of Jews, are closed on Saturday, but not on Sunday. They are worked by steam- engines, setting in motion a number Route 3,—Amsterdam: Mamqfactm'es; History ; It is sup~ . sect.~ I. of small wheels, whose cogs, acting on regular metal plates, cause them to revolve 2000 times in a minute. Pulverised diamond is placed on these; and the stone to be polished, fastened in a metal cap, by means of an amalgam of zinc and quicksilver, is submitted to the friction of the adamantine par- ticles: each wheel can operate on 4 stones at once. In order to cut the diamond, diamond-dust is fixed on metal wire that is moved rapidly backwards and forwards over the stone to be cut. Each perfect stone has 6% facets, each rose 32. The Kohinoor was polished at the mill of M. Coster, in the Zwanenburger-straat (visitors admitted, small fee to the sick fund expected). From 7000 to 8000 persons are employed in stone- cutting at Amsterdam, and 20,000 carats of rough diamonds reach the hands of the manufacturers every week. The nett value of stones im- ported by the United States in 1885. by no means representing the full value realized, amounted to 275,708l. History.——In the latter part of the 13th cent. Amsterdam was still a clus- ter of fisher-men’s huts, in a salt-marsh. Its great advance in wealth and im- portance took place in the 16th cent., after the siege of Antwerp, when the persecutions of the Spaniards in the Flemish provinces drove so many thrifty subjects, active merchants, and clever manufacturers, to seek for safety and the free exercise of the reformed religion in Holland and England. Many wealthy inhabitants of the city also are descendants of refugees driven out of France on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. In 1805, at the extinction of the Dutch republic, Amsterdam became the residence of Louis liuonaparte, created King of Holland by his brother Napoleon, and it is to this prince that the city owes the formulation of its celebrated Picture Gallery. Five years later the entire country was an- nexed to France; but since the Con- gress of Vienna in 1815 Amsterdam has been the capital of the kingdom of the Netherlands. Its prosperity for Holland. 11. long time depended on its shipping, which engrossed the carrying trade of nearly the whole world, and had the effect of rearing a bold race of sailors, ready to fight the battles of their coun- try, and to brave storms and tempests, in every sea under heaven. At one period the trade in butter and cheese brought 1,000,000 dueats annually to Amsterdam. The Bank of Amsterdam, described by Adam Smith, no longer exists: another, the present Bank of the Netherlands on the Rokin, was set up by King William 1., and the ca- italists here still continue to be the ankers of a large part of Europe. Excunsroxs by steamer to the Great Dam at Schellingwoude; to Ijmuiden, at the mouth of the North Sea Canal; to Zaandam, Peter the Great’s work- shop; and to the old Tolhuis (Custom- house, A. 4), where is a pleasant garden at the entrance to the North Holland Canal. Fine view of Amsterdam. The huge gates of the lVillems—Sluis, close by, control the waters of the Canal, which are here several feet below the level of the sea, even at half-tide. Steam tramway to (8 m. E.) Muiden (1900), on the Zuider Zee, at the mouth of the Vecht, with an old cas- tle. 2m. S. lies Weesp. The tram- way goes on to Hilversmn (Rte. 7). The harbour of Amsterdam is fenced in with 2 long lines of piles driven into the mud, having open spaces at intervals to allow vessels to enter and depart. About 1810 it was discovered that a molluscous animal (Tcredo navalis) had reduced the piles, though of the finest heart of oak, to a state re- sembling honeycomb, so as to require constant renewal. The great l’Nortli Sea Canal from Amsterdam direct to the North Sea, through the isthmus connecting S. and N. Holland, was completed in 1876. It is 15 m. in length, avail- able at all tides for the largest ships, and protected by two piers, each of 1600 metres in length, stretching 1000 metres into the sea, and forming a harbour of refuge 1200 metres wide at its mouth at Ymuiden. At its E. Route 3.——.Excm-sions : Buiksloot. 63 extremity are two sets of Lock Gates shutting out the Zuider Zee. (See Rte. 4.) The huge Dam and sluices, founded in a lake of mud on 10,000 piles, may be seen in awalk to (2% m.) Paddenhoek, passing the Docks on the way. “ The primary cost of the work was, speaking roundly, nearly three millions, but of this sum three-quarters of a million was reimbursed from the sale of reclaimed land, which the con- struction of the canal enabled to be cleared of water. Half a million of the cost was also defrayed by the city of Amsterdam.” The steamers navigating the N. Hol- land Canal stop at Buiksloot, a large village at the Waterland Dyke, abounding in spa- cious taverns for the reception of guests from Amsterdam. Hence the Canal extends to the Helder and Texel, a distance of 51 m. At the surface it is 124 ft. wide, at the bottom 31 it, a breadth sufficient to admit two frigates to pass; and it is 21 ft. deep. It has locks only at each end. They are founded upon piles driven through the mud into sand. The level of the canal at Buiksloot is 10ft. below the mean height of the sea, and of course many feet below high tides. This canal enables vessels to enter and quit the port of Amster- dam with satbty, and without delay from contrary winds, and unimpeded either by the storms or the thousand sandbanks of the Zuider Zee: at the same time avoiding the trouble and risk of passing the bar at the mouth of the Ij, called the Pampas, over which lay the only outlet to the sea before this canal was made. This canal was finished in 1825 : the engineer was Van Blanken. Though at the time it con- ferred much benefit on the shipping interest of Amsterdam, it is new super- seded by the North Sea Canal, which places the city within 15 m. of the sea, giving it thereby an immense ad- vantage even over its formidable rival Antwerp, distant 60 111. from the mouth of the Schelde. At T-Schouw, the steamer halts to let out passengers for Brook ('2 m.), K ' Dutch cleanliness and order. 64 Route 4.-—Haarlem to Alkmaar. who may be conveyed thither along a branch canal in a. trekschuit. The road to Broek is dull; it runs through a flat country of meadows by the side of the Broek Canal, along which men and women, harnessed like horses to the towing rope, may be seen submitting to the drudgery of tracking barges laden with fruit and vegetables for the Amsterdam market. Brock was formerly considered one of the curiosities of Holland, and played the part of a show-village to illustrate The place is now, however, seldom visited, and the characteristic dairy farm may be more conveniently inspected from Alkmaar or even from the. Hague. Most of the interesting objects formerly exhibited here have been placed in the Broeker Iqu's of the Yondelspark at Amsterdam (p. 60). An excursion to the Island of Marken will be found interesting in fine weather, but the expenses are heavy, unless divided among a party. A guide (5 fl.) must be taken from the ' hotel at Amsterdam, as strangers are not welcome unless introduced by well-known persons. Ferry across the Y to Tolhuis; thence drive to .llonnis kendam (3000). a decayed town (ear- riage there and back 1011.). Here is a large late Gothic ch.. a town hall with curiously fantastic gable end, and the remains of old walls and gate- ways. Sailing boat hence to Vollende (1600), a primitive village, devoted entirely to lishing. The costumes both of men and women are extremely quaint. and the Schools should by all means he visited. Boat there and back 12 ii. Steamer on Sun. and feast-days, ‘ \ $116111 Amsterdam to Marken, l 11.1‘e- turn. Sect. 1. ROUTE 4. IIAARLEM T0 ALKMAAR. 22 m. RAIL. The immediate neighbourhood of Haarlem is pleasing. Passing the village of Bloemendaal (p. 46), we :reach ! 3 n1. Zandpoort Stat.(1190), to the 11. of which, beyond a wood, is the 1lunatic asylum of Meerenberg. Further on are the picturesque ruins of Brederode (p. 46). 6111. Velsen Junet. Stat. (3700). The Church has a brick tower of the 9th cent. Branch rly. to (2 In. W.) Ymuiden, close to which village are, the Locks of the gnat North Sea. Canal, magnifi- cent works of unusual height and size, with double gates to keep out high tides; planned by Sir John llawkshaw and Mynheer Dirks, of Amsterdam. About 1 111. further is the new harbour of Ijmuiden, formed by 2 piers of basalt and concrete, 1690 yards long, 27 feet wide at top, in- creasing downwards (p. 63). Stretching inland from this is the Tidal Basin, which forms the entrance to the Canal—89 ft. broad at the bottom, ‘23 ft. deep, and lSl ft. wide at water level. It not only connmts Amsterdam with the North Sea, but by the strength of its boundary dykes 12.500 acres have been reclaimed [mm the Ij and Wijker Meer. The North Sea Canal is one. of the most typical features of Holland. “ It focuses from time to time the entire national characteristics ot‘the country in a single glance; for the nearest object to the passing steamer may be a great barque just arrived from the East being labo- riously towed to her berth at Amster- dam: she nearly touches the bank of the canal just where a windmill is propelled by the fresh north wind, and a small pumping-house keeps the "I." ) l l E Holland. low—lying polders free from water. On these, as far as can be seen, speckled cattle are dotted in groups, and in odd corners of the fields hus— bandmen are steadily at work. In the distance the spire of Beverwyk or the red roofs of Zaandam easily catch the eye. When the sun shines, and the wind blows refreshingly, Ymuiden is attractive enough. It is a rendezvous of sailors and fishermen in quaint cos- tumes. Among them are mingled sober-looking peasants watching the working of the locks, the women with large gold lappets and earrings pro— jecting on to the face. A few years ago Ymuiden was simply a spot in the great sandhills which stretch along this coast. Now it is sprinkled with houses scattered about these barren sand-heaps, and in a few years will become a populous place, with cafés and” restaurants looking on to the sea. Steamer twice daily between Ijmui- den and Amsterdam. Crossing the canal, the train pro- ceeds to 8 1n. Beverwijk Stat. (3600), a pat- tern of Dutch purity and neatness, in its clean streets, villa-like houses with fresh painted j alousies and window- sills, and its rows of trees clipped like hedges. At Prinsens Bosch, or Kruid- berg, near Beverwijk, a country seat of William III., the expedition to Eng- land, which led to the dethronement of James II. in 1688, was planned and decided on. At Beverwijk the road leaves the shore of the Wijker Meer. The country beyond is almost entirely devoted to pasture, and is covered over with beautiful herds of cattle. Steam tramway in 20 m. to (3 in. W.) Wyk . aan Zee, a favourite sea-bathing place. Steamer daily to Amsterdam. Pleas- ant walks along the shore. 12 m. Uitgeest J unct. Stat. (2100). For the remainder of the journey to 22 in. Alkmaar Stat. (see Rte. 5). [Holland 1888.] Route 5.——Amsterdam to the Helder. 65’ ROUTE 5. AMSTERDAM TO THE HELDER, BY ALK- MAAR. 51 m. RAIL. The inhabitants of North Holland, removed from intercourse with strangers, retain more of the old cus- toms, habits, and dress of their fore- fathers than those of the South. This province is besides physically in- teresting, from its position and the nature of the soil. The land lies, almost everywhere, below the level of the ocean, and is protected from its in- roads, from Kijkduin along the coast of the Zuider Zee to Zaandam and Bever- wijk, by large dykes, which, in the neighbourhood of the Helder, surpass in size and strength all others that are to be met with in Holland, except those of \Vest Kappel, in Zeeland. The country is intersected in its entire length by the North Holland Canal, through which a great part of the commerce of Amsterdam passed, before the North Sea Canal was completed. A short distance off its shore were fought some very memorable battles between the Dutch and English, such as that of Camper-down, gained by Admiral Duncan in 1797. The fortress of the Helder, rising out of sand and waves, and the roads of Texel, lie at the termination of it. The cattle fed‘ upon this tongue of land are famed for their beauty and the abundance and richness of the milk and cheese which they yield; the sheep for the . fineness of their fleeces and the ex- ‘ cellence of their mutton. Those who take an interest in hydraulics will find many objects worthy of their atten- tion. The women of North Holland are particularly distinguished by the clearncss of their complexions, and by the neatness and gracefulness of their costume, which is almost peculiar to the district. The back of the head is 1‘ 66 encircled by a broad fillet of gold, shaped like a horse-shoe, which con- fines the short-cut hair, and terminates on each side of the temple in 2 large rosettes, also of gold, suspended some- what like blinkers before the eyes of a horse; over this is worn a cap or veil of the finest and richest lace, with lappets hanging down the neck; and a pair of enormous gold car-rings. These ornaments are often of pure gold, even among the lowest classes, and the cost of them is considerable. Great sacrifices are made to purchase them, and they are considered heir- looms in a family. In the ch. at Alkmaar on a Sunday, 300 of these head-dresses may be seen at once. From the Central Stat. of Amster- dam the rly. runs N .W., traversing the Polder, laid dry by the works of the Great Sea Canal, and crosses it by a bridge which lifts to let vessels pass. 6 1n. Zaandam Janet. Stat. (13,000), a flourishing Dutch port at the junc- tion of the Zaan and the Ij. Rly. N .E. to Enkhuizcn (Rte. 6). A characteristic feature of Zaan- dam is the multitude of large and stately windmills which surround it, and extend in long array, to the number of 400, along the banks of the Zaan to the neighbouring villages of Zaandijk, Kong, Wormervecr, and Krommenic, forming together a street nearly 5 m. long. The windmills are turned to a great variety of uses be- sides that of grinding corn. The water is pumped up and land drained, timber is sawn, paper is made, tobacco chopped into snutt‘, ‘apesecd crushed for the oil, and colours ground for the painter, entirely by their agency. The oil mills are well worth the at- tention of persons acquainted with the state of similar works in Eng- land. Thc oil trade is of great im~ portanee here. In some of these windmills the volcanic tuti‘, brought from the borders of the Rhine near Andcrnach, is ground to powder, to supply, when mixed with lime and sand, that valuable cement called ter- rass, used in constructing lockssluices, Route 5.——Zaandam. ' w Sect. 1. and dykes, which has the property of hardening under water. The *Cottage or hut in which Peter the Great lived in 1697 is about 10 min. walk from the steamboat pier. Guide unnecessary. Turn to 1., and keep by the water past the Stadhnis and across the narrow locks at the entrance to the Zaan, to a small inn, inscribed, “Czaar Peter Logement.” Turn to the rt. dowu a few steps, and follow the little by-way, and after crossing the wooden bridge, keep 1. about 100 yards along the canal, until the zinc-roofed outer case con- taining the hut is seen standing a little back. almOst in a ditch. Here Peter worked as a common shipwright in the shipyards ot‘ Mijnheer Half, a. rich merchant, inJorder to enable himself to instruct his subjects in the art of building ships. He went by the name of Peter Mikhailof, or Master Peter, among his fellow- labourers; wore a common carpenter’s dress, and was seen in that costume hard at work by the great Duke of Marlborough. The low building is of rough planks, and loans much on one side, from the foundation having given way. It was bought by a former Queen of Holland, a Russian princess, who, in order to protect so venerable a relic, caused a case to be built ovor it. It consists of two small rooms: in one of them is Peter's bed, which is no- thing better than a cupboard, closed in front with doors: above is a loft, which can only be entered by a ladder. The walls of the two rooms are covered with names from all countries of the world, in pcn, pencil, ink, or cut with a knife. Among the rest is that of the Emperor Alexander, who caused a marble tablet to be placed over the chimney-piece with the words “Petro Magno Alexander.” On the wall is another inscription, “Nothing is too small for a great man.” The period of Peter’s stay at Zaan- dam was really limited to 8 days. He sutt'ercd so much inconvenience from the concourse of idle gazers who as- sembled to look at him, that he pres Holland. ferred retiring to Amsterdam, Where he could work in comparative privacy Within the walls of the dockyard of the Dutch East India Company. Large ships are no longer built here. The view from the Oh. tower is exten- sive and peculiar. An hour is amply sufficient to see all that is remarkable in Zaandam, and the entire excursion may be made from Amsterdam and back by train or steamer in 3 hrs. The name Saar- dam, sometimes erroneously given to this place by strangers, is a corruption of Czar-dam. Small Steamers ascend the Zaan from Zaandam to Alkmaar. The rly. continues N. from Zaan- dam to - 12 m. Krommenie Stat. (2700), where is manufactured all the sail-cloth used in Holland; and, turning \V., gives a View on 1. of the Groote kerk at Haarlem. 14 m. Uitgeest J unet. Stat. (2100), wherethe Haarlem line falls in (Rte. 4). Nearly 2 in. W. of 22 m. Heiloo Stat. (1400), lies Egmond-Bi'nnen, better visited from Alkmaar (see below). Pleasant woods are now traversed to 2% m. ALKMAAR (14,500), upon the North Holland Canal, deriving its name from the number of morasses (Maar) and ponds, now dried up, which sur- rounded it in ancient times. The town is a surpassing example of Dutch neatness and good order. The elegant Gothic Town Hall in the Langstraat, surmounted by a spire, was built in 1509, and has been well restored. It contains some paintings by Cesar run Ererdingen (a native), H". can de Velde, Bartz'us, and De Grebber~mostly Battles and Corpora- tion pieces, with a Holy Family by IIonthorst. (Adm. 25 cents.) There is also a small collection of weapons, seals, instruments of torture, and various municipal curiosities. The Ch. of St. Lawrence is a very noble Gothic- building of the l5t'r ccnt._ Route 5.——Allcmaar: Weaghuis. 67 Here may be seen a Dutch painting, by an unknown master (1501), of the Seven Works of Mercy, and the tomb of Count Floris V. of Holland (1296). A brass to the memory of Pieter Claess Paline and his wife Josina (1546) should also be noticed. The modern Roman Catholic Churches of S. Lawrence and S. Do- minic are spacious and handsome buildings, with well-executed mural paintings of the 14 Stations. The former is Gothic (1861), the latter Romanesque (1865). The town carries on the most con- SldL'l'able commerce in cheese of any place in the world. Every Friday at 10 o’clock a market is held 'here for the sale of it, to which the farmers and country people for many miles round resort, and dispose of the pro. dnee of their dairies to merchants, who export it to the extremities of the earth. The market-place, piled lip with balls, reminds one of Woolwich Arsenal. Barng for the shipment of the cheeses lie alongside the quay, and busy porters in white with their brightly painted barrows, and hats to match, form a picturesque and charac- teristic scene. 9,000,000 lbs. of cheese are weighed annually in the *Waaghuis, or Weighing House, a picturesque building of 1582, with towers and gable, admirably restored in 1886. In the Gedempte Nieuwe Sloot, and other streets, are several interesting houses of the 17th and 18th centuries. In this respect, in- deed, Alkmaar is the most remarkable ot'all Dutch towns,retaining numerous mediteval features, and abounding in old curiosity shops, kept by J ews. Alkmaar endured, in 1573, a Siege from the Spaniards, nearly equal in severity, and hardly inferior in its glorious example of bold resistance, to those of Ham-1cm and Leiden. It was the first enterprise in which the Spaniards failed; it allowed the rest of Holland to draw breath and gain confidence. The defence was the more noble, since the resolution of adhering to the side of the Prince of Orange F 2 68 Was not adopted by the men of Alk- maar until the enemy was at their gates. To the English the name brings with it less glorious recollec- tions, since in 1799 the Duke of York's expeditionary force here capi- tulated to the French General Brnne, after two defeats. Like other Dutch towns, Alkmaar is surrounded by a sort of canal-moat of picturesque outline. the inner mar- gin of which was originally fortified. The site of the defences is now laid out in strips of garden, forming agree- able Promenades. S.W. of the town stretches the long and narrow Park or Bosch, where the old-established and highly characteristic *trotting matches are held. about the 15th of August, the winners gaining money prizes of 200 fl. downwards. In the Victoria Park, the portion to the N.E., a wretched monument has been placed, to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the above-named Siege (1873). Visitors to Alkmaar should not fail to see one of the numerous Dairy Farms in the neighbourhood. Ar- rangements for the excursion will be made, and the necessary introductions provided, by the landlord of the hotel. The following description will convey a general idea of the method by which their proverbial cleanliness is attained. The stable for the cows in winter runs round three sides of the house, the centre forming an open space for calves’ fodder, and the remaining side being set apart for human beings. The pavement is of Dutch tiles, the walls of deal boards, not painted or rough sawn, but as smooth and as clean as a dining-table in an English farm-house. From one end of the stable to the other runs a gutter, and above it, over each stall, a hook is fastened in the ceiling. A strip of carpet, in summer, runs along the foot of the stalls, which are spread over with sea-shells, and an edging of brick is painted in various bright colours. When the cattle are within doors their tails, that they may not dangle in the dirt and besmear their comely sides, are tied up to the hooks in the ceiling, Here may be seen the cheeses in Route 5.—Al7cmaar——Egmond acm Zee. Sect. I. various stages of preparation, some in the press, others soaking in water and imbibing salt. A vast quantity of these sweet-milk cheeses (zoetemelk kaas), or Edam cheeses as they are here styled, are made in North Holland. They are sold at the markets at Alk- maar, Hoorn, &c., and are exported thence to the most distant countries of the globe. Almost every house contains a spe- cial apartment which is rarely entered or opened, save by the housewife her- self, who onee a-week unfastens the shutters, takes down all the china, dusts it, and scrubs the furniture; and after scouring the walls and floor, and polishing the stoves, clescs up the door and shutters again, till the re- volving week brings round another day of purification. With all its absurdity and extrava- gance, an English traveller, fond of agricultural pursuits. would find much gratification in a visit to one of these dairy farms. Here he may taste in spring and summer the finest butter and richest cream in the world. He may also learn many useful particulars respecting the Dutch system of grazing and breeding cattle. For a fuller description, see Introd. § 16. 4,13111. from Alkmaar, a little S. of W., lies Egmond op den Hoof, with a ruined tower and meat, sole relics of the Castle of the. Counts of Egmond. Close by stands the first Protestant ch. erected in Holland, surmounted by a stork’s nest, and built of bricks from the ruined castle. 13: in. further W. is Egmond aan Zee (2000), a primitive and quite in- tact village, numbering (30 fishing boats of the Seheveningen type, and supporting the largest J ansenist com- munity in the world. Here is a Lighthouse in memory of J. C. J. Van Spcyk, whose name is written in large letters half way up the column, while at its base a ridiculous parti-eoloured east-iron lion tramples on flags and cannons. S. of the town, on the Dunes facing the sea, is an interesting house and studio fitted up in old .né Holland. Dutch style, the property of Mr. _George Hitchcock, the distinguished American painter. 2 m. S. of Egmond op den Hoef is Egmond Binnen, on the site of a once— famous Abbey destroyed by the icono- clasts. A field is still shown where the tribes of N. Holland used to hold their councils under the abbey walls. The high road between Alkmaar and Egmond intersects the two great l’olders of Egmonder Jlfccr and Bergen .Mcr'r. 2-horse carriage for this very enjoyable drive, 8 to 10 florins, from Alkmaar and back. The *return journey by steamer, from Alkmaar to Amsterdam, is highly recommended. The rly., on leaving Alkmaar, crosses the North Holland Canal, and bears N .E. to 29 m. Hugowaard Stat. Not far from this the 3 polders (§ 10), the Hugowaard, the Schermermeer, and the famous Beemstcr meet. In the centre of this kind of triangle is built the pretty town of Schermeer Hoorn, the steeples of which, shining amidst the trees, overlook the rich pastures which surround it, basins of former lakes. The streets extend along the high land in the 3 directions which are open to” them, and give it a singular- form. The Beemster is one of the largest, most fertile, and best drained lake- beds or polders. It took 4 years to drain it: the undertaking was com- menced in 1808. The finest mutton in all Holland is fed upon its pastures. It abounds in large trees, the trunks and lower branches of which are painted over with various colours, pro- bably to assist in preserving them from insects or moisture. The train now continues N. to 37 m. Schagen Stat. (3200),abeau- til’ul village, situated in a lake-bed, called the Zijp, the oldest drained land in North Holland. Flax of a very fine quality is cultivated in the neighbourhood. The country hereabouts is clothed with the richest venture, and supports Route 5.—Schagen——H elder. 69 numerous herds of cows and large flocks of sheep. The district is inter- sected in all directions by canals; and it is curious sometimes to observe the sails of the barges overtopping the roofs of the houses, and slowly moving along, to all appearances over the fields, as the canal itself is con- cealed from view. About 7 m. S.W., upon the sea- shore, is a place called Houdsboche, the worst defended and most danger- ous spot along the whole Dutch coast, where the sea is constantly gaining upon the land. As there are no dunes here, the ocean is only kept out by building breakwaters, and throwing up jetties at right angles with the beach, which require unremitting care and attention. 2 In. S. of this spot lies Kemp, off whose downs (Camperdown) was fought Admiral Duncan’s action, in which he gained a complete victory over the Dutch in 1797. The dunes (§ 11) near Camperdown are composed of sand so very fine, and so extremely pure and white, that it is . exported in large quantities to Eng- land for manufacturing glass. 43 m. Anna Paulowna Stat, on the polder of the same name, was so called after the Dowager Queen of Holland. Here may be observed in summer large numbers of the sea-fowl (Anus ta- dorm), which builds its nest and lays its eggs in rabbit-holes. ' The Canal is again cressed near its mouth, to reach 51 m. Helder Stat. (22,000), situated within the port of Nieuwe Diep, the town lying nearly a mile to the E. There is very little to interest the ordinary traveller at the Holder. The View from the extremity of the forti- , fications, looking towards it and over the Mars Diep, or entrance into the Zuider Zoo, is fine. Down to the end of the last cent., the Helder was little more than a fishing village. Na- poleon converted it into a fortress of first rank, capable of containing 10,000 70 men in its bomb-proof easements. He called it his Northern Gibraltar, but left the fortifications to be finished in 1830. Its batteries defend the roads of the Mars Diep, and the entrance of the harbour and canal. On the highest point of the northern dykes stands Fort Kykduin, with a lofty light- house. The Dyke is about 5 m. long and 40 ft. broad at the summit, descend- ing to the sea by a slope of 200 ft. at an angle of 40 degrees. The highest tides are far from covering the top; the lowest are equally far from show- ing the base. At certain distances enormous grog/nee of timber-piles and fascines, covered with stone, avcragin g in length 200 yards, project into the sea. This artificial and gigantic coast is thus composed of blocks of granite and limestone, brought from Norway or Belgium. The Holder is almost the only spot on the coast of llolland where there is deep water close in shore. The rush, or “ race,” of the tide from the ocean into the Zuider Zee, through the nar- row strait between llelder (IIel-deur -—hell’s door) and the island of Texel. constantly scours out the passage and keeps it deep. The passage of Texel. called Dc- ll'itt’s Diep, was first laid open to Dutch commerce in 1665 by the Grand Pensionary dc Witt, who, in the teeth of the assertion by pilots and commanders that the passage was impracticable, proceeded in his long boat to this channel, took the sound- ings with his own hand, found the depth double that which had been set down, and put to sea through the dreaded gut in the largest ship of the Dutch squadron. A British force, under the Duke. of York and Sir Ralph Abererombie, landed here in 1799, and took posses- sion of tho Helder, and of the Dutch fleet; but was compelled to re-cmbark a few weeks afterwards, having fruit- lessly endeavoured to excite the Dutch to rise, and throw off the yoke of France. Nieuwe Diep, the Portsmouth of Holland, has been entirely formed, by Route 6. ——Amsterdam to Enkhuizen. Sect. I. artificial means, since the end of the last century. It affords protection,by means of piers and jetties stretching out from the shore, to all vessels on- tering the great canal, even to men-of- war and mcrchantmen of large burden. There is a steam—engine for emptying the dry dock; and the entrance of the basin is closed by a kind of fan—shaped sluice-gate, which the rising tide is ingeniously forced to shut, preventing its own entrance. Steamer thrice daily in 2 hr. (fare 60 cents, 1 11. return) to The Island of Texel (6500), which supports niyriads of sea-birds, and about 35.000 sheep, whose fleeces, of remarkable length and fineness, are highly prized. A sort of green- coloured cheese is made here of the cwes‘ milk, and the mutton is excel- lent. The chief place in the island is De Burg, 3 In. W. of (hate Sell ilrl, the landing place of the steamer. The birds congregate chiefly in the N. part of the island, thence called Eycrland, and supply vast quantities of eggs to the Amsterdam market. Steamer twice daily from Nieuwe Diep to .»\mstcrdanl. touching at All;- Inaar and I’urmerend. Fare :2 ll. ROUTE G. AMSTERDAM 'ro ENKIIUIZEN, :Y MAX- DAM AND noonN. 38 in. RAIL. On Tuesday and Friday a steamer leaves Amsterdam at 7, passes through the great looks at Schillingswoode, and reaches Enkhuizen at about 10. A hurried glimpse may thus be ob- tained of Enkhuizcn and Hoorn; and - i t 1' Holland. Amsterdam regained by an evening train. For the rly. journey to 6 m. Zaandam J unct. Stat, see Rte. 5. Here the line turns N.E. to 15 m. Purmerend Stat. (5100) at the S. angle of the Beemster, on the banks of the Great Canal. and between the 3 polders, the Beemster, the Purmer, and the \N’ormer. The quantity of cheese annually sold in Purmerend has exceeded one million Dutch pounds. Steamer several times daily to Am- sterdam, once or twice daily to Alk- maar. 17 m. Kwadyk Stat. 3 m. E, close to the Zuider Zee, lies Edam (5600), the centre of the cheese district. 27 in. Room Stat. (10,500). In the Stadhuis are some remarkable pictures of the old schutterij (militia), in the Spanish times, by Rottiers, a pupil of Van der Holst ; also the sword of the ' Spanish Admiral (1e Bossu, who was taken, after a severe engagement, by the Dutch, commanded by Admiral Derks in 1573. The Arsenal is an interesting speci- men of Dutch architecture, and two old town gateways—the Poort, on the waterside (1532), and another of 1651, deserve attention from the artist. The former is round-upsed, with acute roof and pinnacle. The lVeigh—house of 1640, and the Almshouse of Sint Jans (1563), are picturesque buildings. This is the native place of the mariner William Sehouten, who, in 1616, first doubled the southernmost cape of America, which is named after his birthplace, Cape Hoorn, or Horn. Abel Jansz Tasman, who discovered Van Dieman’s Land and New Zea- land, was also, it is said, born here. Hoorn, like many other towns of North Holland, is sadly fallen off in trade and prosperity. It exports butter and cheese, provisions and fish. The great fleet of Ad. dc Ruitcr was built here. Daily coach to (12 In. N.) Medemblrih Route 7.—Amsterdam to Essen. 71 (2200), the most miserable of decayed towns. 38 m. Enkhuizen Stat. is another decayed town, which once sent out 400 vessels to the deep-sea herring-fishery: at present it does not employ 50 ; and its population is diminished from 40,000 to 5400. Part of the town has vanished and given place to meadows. It was ruined by the silting up of its harbour, yet its Westerkerk has a noble tower, and retains its admirably carved stalls. Paul Potter was born herein 1625. The imposing Town Hall of 1688 contains a celebrated picture by F 6rd. Bel—the town of Enkhuizen, in the form of an Allegory. Steamer daily across the Zuider Zee to Stavorcn ; daily at 12.30 to Harlin- gen; on Tues. and Fri. also at 10. ROUTE 7. AMSTERDAM TO ESSEN, BY ZU’I‘PHEN AND wmrsssva. 140 m. BAIL. Running E. from the capital, this line traverses the fresh green Water- graafsmeer polder to . 10 m. Weesp Stat. (3700), where the Vecht branch of the Rhine is crossed, 3 m. above its influx into the Zuider Zee. 15 m. Naarden Stat. This small fortress lies a little way on 1.: the country around was once a lake. Tramway to Huizen, a village 5 m. N.E. on the shore. 18 m. Hilversum Junct. Stat. Here the direct line to Utrecht (Rte. 8) branches rt. Steam tramway to Am. sterdam by Maiden. ' 72 Route 7.——’-Soestdgjk——Zutphen. 22 m. Baum Stat. (3500), a favour- ite summer resort, with a finely— wooded park. 3 m. distant, reached by a pretty path through a wood, or by omnibus several times daily (20 c.) is Soestdyk, the summer residence of Prince Henry of the Netherlands, presented by the States of the Nether- lands to the late King, “'illiam II., when Prince of Orange, in recogni- tion of his skilful generalship at the battle of Quatre-Bras. The mansion is an extensive whitewashed building, with no pretension to architectural display, but prettily situated, and e11- circled by a wood. It contains several valuable paintings, &c., and may be viewed when the Prince is not in re- sidence. Opposite is asplcndid avenue of beech-trees; at the bottom of this is an obelisk erected by the nation in “grateful memory” of the Prince of Orange. Within the railed area are 2 cannons taken by the Dutch from the French at the battle of Quatre— Bias. 29 m. Amersfoort J unct. Stat. (14,500), on the Born, is noted as the birthplace of John Oldenbarneveld, Grand Pensionary of Holland (15H). Here is a late Gothic ch. with a lofty tower and a Seminary for the educa- tion of J ansenist priests (sec Utrecht). There are manufactures of bombazeen and carpets; and much tobacco is cultivated in the neighbourhood. From a pavilion on a mound, 1 in. outside the town, is gained an exten- sive view of the flat sandy district. Rly. to (20 in. SE.) Kestcrc-n (Rte. 17), crossing the Utrecht and Arnhem line (Rte. 9) near Yeenendaal. The rly. traverses the fertile and undulating district of l'eluwe, lying between the Ijssel and the Zuider Zce, to 56 m. Apeldoorn Stat, a pretty vil- lage on the Grift canal (13,500). Not far N. is the Palace of the Loo, the summer residence of the King of the Netherlands. It is shown only in the absence of the Royal Family. The gardens, embellished in 1862, are ex— Sect. I. tensive, but flat; they contain fine sheets of water, and may be visited on application at the lodge. This was the favourite hunting retreat of \V 11- liam III. of England. 66 in. ZUTPHENJunct. Stat. (15,400), an ancient town and fortress, at the junction of the Berckel with the Ijssel. It is still a strong place, but the fortifications on the banks of the I jssel were demolished in 1858. The Groote Kerk (of St. “'alburg~ Calvinist) is a very fine Gothic building (1105, restored 1857); its great tower has been rebuilt since 1600, when the original one was destroyed by light- ning. Within are monuments of the Counts of Zutphen, over one of which is hung a Gothic chandelier of iron, and a modern monument to the fannly Van Heeckeren. There is also a beautiful Gothic Font of copper, date 1527, resting on 4 lions: the stem has niches and statuettes. Adjoining the church is a library of old books, many of them fastened to the shelves by chains. The Chimes are placed in the tower of the Wijn Huis: there is another large square tower called Drogenass. It was on the battle-field of Warns- feld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, that the gallant Sir Philip Sidney received his death-wound, Sept. 22, 1586, after an action in which the English had signally defeated the veteran Span- iards under the Marquess of Guasto. Stretched on the ground, bleeding and parched with thirst, the English hero displayed the well-known instance of humanity, in desiring that the cup of water intended for him should be given to the dying soldier at his side. A great trade in timber, from rafts brought down the Rhine, is carried on at Zutphen. 3 In. N. is the Dutch Mettray, founded in 1851, for the discipline of young vagabonds. The estate com- prises 60 acres, and the admirably- condueted establishment supports up- wards of 150 poor lads and found~ lings. Zutphen is a stat. on the main line between Arnhem and Leeuwarden K Holland. Route 8.——Amsterdam to Utrecht. 9.—Dz'emer Meer. (Rte. 14). Hence also runs E. the shortest route to N. Germany, by 25 m. Delden Stat, near which is the chateau of Twiekel, with a well- timbered park; and 28 m. Hengelo J unct. Stat. [Branch line NJV. to Zwolle (Rte. 14); S. to Enschede (5800), with large calico and cloth manufactories. Beyond Enschedc the frontier is crossed to Gronau, the first Prussian town. SJV. of Eusehede a fly. runs to (35 m.) Doctiehem (Rte. 11), pass- ing Neale and Ruurlo. From Neede a line diverges S. to (7 1n.) Grocnlo and (14 m.) Wintersuqflr (see below).] 36 m. Oldenzaal Stat. Frontier town and Dutch custom-house. (Buffet) 4% m. Bentheim Stat. Frontier and Custom-house of N. Germany (2000). Over the trees is seen the square ma- chicolated tower of the Castle, which Ruysdael painted. A cold sulphur spring here is beneficial in the treat- ment of rheumatism and gout. 53 m. Salzbergen J unct. Stat, where the line turns S. to 58 In. Rheine Junct. Stat. (Rt ‘. 15), and thence to Hanover and Berlin. (See Handbook N. Germany.) Leaving Zutphen, the main line continues a little S. of E. to 80 m. Ruurlo J unct. Stat. Rly. S.W. to Doctz'chem (Rte. 11); N .E. to Neale and Hengelo (see above). 87 m. Lichtenvoorde Stat, serving also the village of Groenlo, the former 5 m. S., the latter 2 Il]. N ., reached by tramway. 94 m. Winterswyk J unct. Stat. (8200), on the Dutch frontier. Rly. S. to Wech (Rte. 23); N. to Neale (see above); W. to chcnaar (Rte. 1]). \ The main line continues S.E. to t 140 m. Essen Junct. Stat. (See Handbook for N. Germany.) 73 ROUTE 8. AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT, BY anvrn- SUM. 28 m. RAIL. 10 quick trains daily, in about an hour. A rather shorter line, both in time and distance, runs by Brcukelcn (Rte. 9), but the fares are the same. The Central stat. is the starting point of the present Rte; the trains m‘d Breukelen leave Amsterdam also by the Rhine stat. (E. 7). For the journey to 18 m. Hilversum Junct. Stat, see Rte. 7. Hence the rly. towards Amersfoort proceeds E., while our line turns due S. to 28 in. Utrecht (Maliebaan) Stat, on the E. side of the town. For descrip- tion, see Rte. 9. ROUTE 9. AMSTERDAM 'ro EMMERICH, BY 'CTRECHT AND ARNHEM. 78 m. RAIL. Rvjn Spoorwcg Terminus outside the Weesper Gate. Trains every hour to Utrecht, passing through a country not very interesting (sec Rte. 8). The immediate neighbourhood of Amsterdam may be said to consist of an aggregation of polders (§ 10). The most remarkable is that called the Diemer Meer, one of the deepest of the drained lakes in all Holland: its bottom lies 16 ft. below the level of the sea, which is sometimes aug- mented to 30 at very high tides. ,74 » 13 m. Nienwersluis Stat. Both sides of the old road and of the river Vecht are lined with villas, summer- houses, and gardens (§ 12), belong- ing principally to merchants of Am- sterdam. The taste of the Dutch for horticulture is here seen to perfection. 15 m. Brenkelen J unct. Stat. Rail- way 1. to Gouda and Rotterdam (Rte. 10). On approaching Utrecht the country presents partial undulations, and a slight current becomes perceptible in Route 9.—Breukelen— Utrecht. Sect. I. as storehouses and manufactories. their roofs forming the pavement of the street above. Before a great in- undation, which occurred in 839, the main stream of the Rhine, which was then turned into the Lek, flowed past Utrecht. The detached tower of the ancient Protestant Oath. of St. Martin, 321 ft. high, 70 ft. square at the base (1382), of brick below, topped by a light Openwork octagon lantern of stone, should be ascended on account of the View, extending over almost all Hol- c_g\gfi/o:i(yUTRECHT 1|, JI\JLl _ Legend. . Hotel Pays Bas. ' ,, do 1’ linrope. ,, Bellevnc. ,. Oude lx’astcel. . Industrial Museum. . Library. . J anskerk. . Stadhuis. . Picture Gallery. . Cathedral. Alip.’s Museum. . l‘ietcrskerk. 3..pr STATION ’fl-1‘640lHi-CJIGH o L J the canals. About 3 m. NJV. of Utrecht, on the Vccht, is the old castle of Zuylen, the residence of Francis Borselen, to whom Jacqueline of Holland was married. 22 m. UTREOHT J unct. Stat. (Buffet, not good), called by the Romans Tra- jectus ad Rhenum (ford on the Rhine), and in medizeval Latin Ultrajectum, is situated at the bifurcation of the branch of the Rhine called the Old Rhine, and the Vecht, which runs into the Zuider Zee. Pop. 75,000 (21,000 Roman Catholics). There is a considerable descent from the houses to the level of the river—a circumstance which dis- tinguishes this from other Dutch towns already described; the cellars under the quays by the waterside are in- habited, and are large enough to serve land, a part of Gelderland and N. Brabant, and comprehending HertO< geubosch, Rotterdam, Oudewater, Montfort, Amsterdam, Amcrsfoort, Rheenen, Breda, G certruidenberg, Gouda, and the Lek. Midway in the steeple is the dwelling of the sacristan, or kostcr. Fee, 25 cents. The nave of the church was thrown down by a storm in 167-1, when the wind carried off the roof and twisted the solid stone pillars ; the ch. was thus out in half by the hurricane, and an open space now occupies the site of the ruin. The lofty choir, 115 ft. high, is a fragment of a noble Gothic edifice (1251—67), the finest in Holland; it has suffered from fanatic iconoclasts and from modern pewing, which hides part of its beautiful clustered Gothic pillars, of great height and lightness. Holland. They, too, have been sadly cut away to admit the upper seats, Which are arranged like those of a lecture theatre. The E. apse is surrounded by 7 chapels. There are monuments to Bp. Egmont, 1519, and (at the extreme E. \end) to Admiral van Gent, who fell in the fight of Solebay (1672) by Ver Hulst. The ch. has a fine organ. The crypt is spacious, and the Cloisters deserve notice. The first Bp. of Utrecht was St. Willebrod, an Englishman, who left his own country, in the 7th cent, to convert the heathen Frisians. The Pope ordained him bishop over them; while Charles Martel presented to him the castle of Utrecht and the sur- rounding district. The Bishops of Utrecht were powerful princes in the Middle Ages. The University, joined to the Cathe- dral by its Cloisters, was founded in 1636. and has about 500 students, chiefly of the upper classes. Here are admirable collections of anatomical preparations, natural history, minerals, to. In the Stadhuis (1830), are a few very old pictures from suppressed con- vcnts, curious rather than beautiful —-and a highly interesting *collection of antiquities and minor objects of art (flfuseum can Oudhcden; open daily 10 to 4; adm. 10 cents; Wed. free). Here may be secnadoll’s house under glass, forming a model of a Dutch dwelling in 1600, the walls hung with minute paintings and ivory carvings, and the figures in mediaeval costume. For this toy 100,000 guilders are said to have been offered. Also, various Roman antiquities; instruments of torture; engravings of ancient houses now destroyed; wooden model of a lock (Schutsluz’zen Vrcswycl:) 2 hrs. distant; medals, coins, seals. and other municipal curiosities; the silver trumpet blown at the Peace of Utrecht, and the table on which the Peace was signed; glass weapons, crockery, fire-places, Roman stone- weights and idols in bronze; recum- Route 9.-— Utrecht: Stadhm's ; Museums. 75 bent statue of a knight in black touch- stone; and a 15th-cent. St. Martin. The University Library has been removed to a former royal palace in the N.E. corner of the town. It contains upwards of 100,000 vols.. besides many valuable MSS.. and a Reading-room, open daily from 11 to 4. The Museum Kunstliefde (open daily, 25 cents) contains ancient and modern pictures, arranged in two upper rooms. Among the former is a Holy Family by Van dcr Holst; a Woman with 2 Children, by De K cyscr; a Man and Boy, by Morcclse; a large Adoration of the Magi, by Blocmacrt ,- several good paintings by unknown masters; and a fine *series of portrait heads by Schooreel, representing a pilgrimage of Utrecht divines to the Holy Land. The *Archbishop’s Museum, well worth notice, is devoted to objects of ecclesiastical art, old pictures, carvings in wood and ivory, ch. plate, MSS., and miniatures. (Adm. daily, 10 to 5; 50 cents.) The paintings are chiefly of the early Cologne and Siena school, and the service-books are re- markable for their handsome bindings. Among the larger pictures are 4: pil- grims in the Holy Sepulchre (16th cent), and Christ blessing the Chil- dren, by Volcker-t (1620). Some carving on stone and wood also deserves atten- tion. Upstairs are copes, chasubles, &c., and the History of S. Theodosia on glass panels (1545), finely coloured and extremely curious. An inner room contains lace and linen embroideries from the convent of Huissen. The Protestant churches of Utrecht are always closed, and scarcely repay the trouble of opening. The most important are the Pieterskerk, origin- ally Romanesque, beneath which is an ancient crypt, and the Janskerk, of similar date, with lamentable ad- ditions. The Roman Catholic Ch. (St. Cathe- rine’s) is of good lltli-cent. Gothic, restored by Van Brink, with a metal spire ovor the crossing and ornamented 76 Route 9.— Utrecht—Zeist. gable. It is stone vaulted, and the interior is painted throughout in good taste. The modern stalls and Arch- bishop’s throne are finely carved. Utrecht is the headquarters of the J ansenists, a sect of dissenters from the Roman Catholic Church, who object to the bull Unigenitus of Pope Cle- ment XI. (1713) condemning as here- tical certain doctrines of Cornelius Jansen, Bishop of Ypres. They scarcely exist in any number, except in Hol- land, Where they are new reduced to 5000. Utrecht is the sec of their archbishop. Eng. Ch. Service occasionally on Sunday evening, bya chaplain from Amsterdam or Rotterdam. The Dutch Mint is situated here; strangers are admitted on application to the director; a small fee (50 cents) is expected. The National Observa- tory stands in a garden, near the Maliebaan stat. Hadrian Boyens, afterwards Pope Hadrian VI., the tutor of Charles Y., was born at Utrecht, in a house still standing on the Oude Gracht : ahouse built by him still goes by the name of the Pope’s house (Paus huizen), and now serves as Government-offices and for the Telegraph. The Boulevards, formerly the ram- parts, form an agreeable promenade diversified with abundant water. The Mall, called Maliebaan, is an avenue of 6 rows of lime-trees, halfa mile in length. on the E. side of the city. It is one of the finest in Europe, and was saved from being cut down by the express command of Louis XIV., at a time when his army spared no- thing else in Holland. The game of Pall Mall is still kept up. The Museum van Kunstnyverheid (open on Wed. from 1 to 4, fee 25 cents) is an interesting collection of objects, illustrative of the industrial arts. The School Museum is devoted to educa- tional materials, and is‘ worth a visit (small fee). Both are situated at the N. extremity of the town. The Treaty of Utrecht (1713), which Sect. I. drew ofi‘ most of the Belligerent Powers engaged in the war of the Spanish Succession, was signed at the residence of John Robinson, Bp. of Oxford, the British Minister, in a house now pulled down and replaced by a barka called Willems-kazern. Many of the preliminary conferences were held in a back room of the old Stadhuis, still remaining. The act of Union (1579), which formed the foun- dation of Dutch freedom, and which declared the Seven United Provinces independent of Spain, was signed in the Public Hall (auditorium) of the University. Pleasant walk or drive (tramway sr-Veral times a day) to (6 m.) De Bilt (Rte. 13), along a Well-shaded road, bordered with delightful villas. Here and at (3 In. further) Zeist are numerous tea-gardens. The return may be made by Driebergcn and the rly. (see below). lily. \V. to IIm-melen, for Leiden (Rte. 12), or Gouda, Rotterdam, and the Hague (Rte. 10); N13. to Zwollc (Rte. 13); S. to Boxtel and Licgo (Rte. 20). The main line runs E. for a con- siderabfe distance through a country abounding in wood. Many fine forest- trees are seen here, and scarcely any- where clse in Holland. The canal connecting Utrecht with the Lek is crossed before reaching 20 m. Driebergen Stat. Tramway to Zeist, about 3 m. N.W. (6 111. from Utrecht), remarkable for a Moravian colony settled in it, which deserves to be visited. The excursion can be easily made in half a day, paSsing Several fine country seats. There is a good Inn near the Moravian colony. The whole establishment is distinguished for the order and neatness maintained in it, and is supported by the manu- factures of the brothers and sisters. On the N. of the road, near Zeist, is a mound of earth, erected in 32 days by the French army of 30,000 men, under ltIarmont, on the occasion of Napoleon being made emperor. Tramway also SE. to ll'yl: by Dum'stede and Rheuen 3 Holland. (Rte. 17). The latter line is erosse near , 43 m. Veenendaal Stat.,’ a small town celebrated for its honey. From 48 m. Ede Stat, a tramway runs to (5 m. S.) Wageningen (6000), supposed to be the ad Veda of the Romans: it has a large Agricultural College, and is connected with the Rhine by a short canal. On the opposite side of the river is a flat district called the Island of Betuwe, retaining in its name a memorial of the ancient inhabitants of this country, the Batavi. Tramway from Wageningen to (5 In. W.) Rheum (Rte. 17), and (7 In. E.) Arnhem. The rly. proceeds to 58 in. ARNHEM Junct. Stat. (Buf- fet.) This chief town of Gelderland, the Roman Arenacum, on the right bank of the Rhine, 3 m. below the point where the Ijssel branches off from it (Pop. 46,000, half Roman Catholics), was fortified by Coehorn, but the ram- parts are now turned into walks. Sir Philip Sidney died here, Oct. 1586, of the wound received in battle near Zutphen. In the Great Market Place are situated the Town Hall (Stadhuis), called the Devil’s House, from the sculptured masks and caryatids which adorn its front. It contains a small but interesting Museum of local an- tiquities, including a remarkable ivory diptych of the 13th cent. The Groote Kerk (Calvinistic), chiefly of brick (1452), has a tall W. tower. It is lofty, vaulted in wood, and ends in an E. apse with aisles. The S. porch has good Gothic work of the 14th cent. This ch. contains the fine white marble monument of Charles of Eginont, Duke of Gelders (1513), while in a frame, fixed against the N. wall of the choir, is the armour which he wore. St. Walburg’s Roman Catholic Route 9.——Amhem——Pamzerdeu. Church has a plain Romanesque W. front, and contains a modern pulpit designed by Cuypers. The neighbourhood of Arnhem abounds in villas, parks, and gardens, the finest being that of the Baron van Heekeren, Sonsbeek—the entrance close to the Railway Station. The pleasure grounds and park are most beautifully laid out, and the view from the Belvedere tower is striking. Adm. on Mon. and Wed; fee 50 cents. Further off, near the village of Velp (4 m. E., see Rte. 14), are several fine country seats, Bijoen, Beekhuizen, Rozendaal, Middachten, Rhederoord, &c., to the gardens of which the public are admitted. Many of the grounds of the country seats are open; but some have notices— only in Dutch—of man-traps and spring-guns. This part of Gelderland may, indeed, be termed “the Dutch paradise ;” but its 'chief attractions, besides those which it derives from art, are the abundance and purity of its flowing streams, to which the native of other Dutch pro- vinces is a stranger, and the beauty of the trees. The road leading out of the town, pa st the Bellevue Hotel to Mariendaal (2 m), and 00sterbeek (4 m), com- mands one of the best views of Arnhem and the Rhine. Coach several times a day. STEAMER daily to Rotterdam, and up the river to Lobith, the last village in Holland. 3 m. above Arnhem the Ijssel branches off from the Rhine, and flows into the Zuider Zee at Kampen. 7 in. further, on the rt. bank, lies Pannerden, near the N. point of the Island of Betuwc, with a conspicuous ch. spire. Between this and Millen- gen, on the 1. bank, the Waal first branches out from the main trunk of the Rhine, which above this spot flows in one undivided stream. By the management of the Waterstaat, only one-third of the Water of the Rhine passes through the channel of the Pan- nerden, here strongly dyked, While two-thirds are conducted into the Waal. Opposite Lobith, about 16 m. 78 Route 10.—Amstercia.m to the Hague. from Arnhem, and at some distance from the river, stands the Schenken- schanz, once strongly fortified, at the point where the \Vaal formerly branched off from the Rhine. Near this spot the army of Louis XIV. crossed the Rhine in 1672, an exploit much vaunted by the French poets (Boileau, &c.) and historians of the time, though little risk was in- curred but that of drowning, as there were few Dutch troops immediately on the spot to oppose the passage. The river was then much reduced by the drought of summer, though not entirely fordable, and many regiments had to swim across. The Great Condc' was here wounded in the wrist, and his nephew was killed by his side. From Lobith, Cologne may be reached by steamer. Rly. N. to Zutphcn (Rte. 14); SJV. to Dordrecht (Rte. 17) ; S. to Nymcgen and Maastrieht (Rte. 19). Continuing S.E., we reach 67 n1. Zevenaar J unct. Stat. (3700), the Dutch custom-house. lily. E. to \Vinterswyk (Rte. 11); S. to Cologne by Goch (Rte. 21). The Prussian custom-house is at 72 m. Elten Stat, whence we pro- ceed to 78 m. Emmerich Junct. Stat. (See Handbook for N. Germany.) ROUTE 10. AMSTERDAM TO THE HAGUE OR ROTTERDAM, BY GOUDA. 46 or 51 m. Rail. 8 exp. trains daily, in 1:}; to 2 hrs. Fares the same as by llaarleni and Leiden "Rte. 3). aThird C‘ru::ade. Sect. 1. From (15 m.) Breukelen J unct. Stat. (Rte. 9) the line turns S. to 20 m. Harmelen J unct. Stat.(Rte. 12), and 22 m. Woerden Junct. Stat, both on the direct line between Utrecht and Leiden. 26 m. Oudewater Stat, nearly 2 m. \V. of the town (2400), which lies on the Yssel, and was the birthplace of Arininius (Harlnensen) in 1560. The Town Hall contains a pic- ture by Dirk Sloop, illustrating the butcheries committed here by the Spaniards in 1575. 33 m. GOUDA (or Tor Gouw) Junct. Stat, a decayed town of 17,800 In- hab., with a large grass-grown square. The. Groote Kerk of St. John (fee 25 ccnts)—begnn in 1485, but nearly rebuilt at‘tcr a fire in '1 552 ; 300 ft. long, and 14011. high to the crown of the wooden vault—is famous for its 75 painted glass windows, which, though highly important in the history of the art, are rather poor in colour. They are for the most part 30 ft. high (2 are nearly double that height), and finished with great attention to de- tails, but are of various degrees of merit. They were executed, between 1500 and 1003, by 2 brothers, Dirk and ll’outer Crabcth. One (No. 10), having been destroyed by a storm, was restored in 1055, and by its in~ feriority proves the art to have been then on the decline. The later win- dows, dating after the establishment of Protestantism, are occupied with Pagan allegories, &c., and are inferior to the more ancient. They were presents from towns or wealthy indi- viduals, made on the rebuilding of the church in 1560. The subjects of the windows are as follows, begin~ ning on the left hand on entering the church by the door under the steeplez—l. An allegorical represen- tation of Liberty of Conscience. 2. The Taking of Damietta by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa in the 3. The Virgin of Holland. Dort. 4. Justice and Velour, with the Arms of the Lords of Rhineland. 5. The Queen of Sheba visiting Solo- mon. 6. Siege of Bethulia: Behead- ing of Holofernes. 7. The Last Supper, with portraits of Queen Mary of England, and Philip II. of Spain, the donors, kneeling. The upper part of this window was destroyed by a hailstorm. 8. The Sacrilege of Helio- dorus. 9. The Angel appearing to Zacharias. 10. The Annunciation. 11. Birth of St. John the Baptist. 1'2. The Nativity. 13. Christ among the Doctors. 1-1. St. John the Baptist Preaching. 15. The Baptism of Christ. 16. Sermon on the Mount. 17. St. John the Baptist rebnking Herod. 18. St. John the Baptist’s Disciples questioning Christ. 19. Beheading of St. John the Baptist. 20 and 21 re- present the Sufferings, Resurrection, and Ascension of Christ. 22. The Money -ehangers driven from the Temple. 23. The Offering of Elijah before the Priests of Baal. 24. The Angel sending Philip to baptize the Ethiopian, and Peter and John healing the Lame Man. 25. The Relief of Leiden, and Raising the Siege~very curious. 26. The Relief of Samaria. 27. The Pharisee and Publican in the Temple. 28. The \Voman taken in Adultery. 29. Nathan reproving David. 30. The Whale casting forth Jonah. 31. In the S. transcpt. Ba- laam and his Ass. Besides these, there are 13 windows above the choir, representing Christ and his Apostles. The church contains a Very power- ful and sweet-toned organ, in which the euro humana stop is especially fine. The Town Hall was the residence of Jacqueline of Bavaria, whose part was taken by the citizens during the civil wars of the Hooks and Kabcljauws (Hooks and Codfish—the nobles and the citizens—the names of two poli- tical factions). The Gothic font dates from 1450. The Town Museum in the market- place has a Collection of portraits, among which is a good corporation Route 10.——Gouda. ' 79 piece by Ferd. Bel, a gilded chalice of 1425, and other antiquities. Statues have been erected to Cornelis Hout- man, founder of the Dutch East India. trade, and his brother Frederik. There are large manufactories of bricks” here. The clay is scraped up out of the bed of the Ijssel, with a sort of hoe having a sack attached to it, and is particularly well adapted for the purpose. Tobacco-pipes were for- merly made here in large quantities, but the trade has fallen ofi', owing to the preference for cigars. Gouda cheese (Stolk) of new milk has some local reputation, but is not palatable to a stranger. The Rhine communicates, for ship navigation, with the Ijssel and Meuse, by Gouda. A ship-lock at the Gouda Sluis enables vessels to pass across the dyke of the Rhine into a spacious canal connected with the Kromme Gouda river. This last was made in 1281 as a slaker to the Rhine. It is 9 m. long, and has an excellent tide- loek at Gouda, 153 ft. long and 25 ft. wide. GOUDA TO ROTTEIKDAMx— Crossing the Kromme Game, and skirting the edge of the Zuidplas polder, the train runs S.VV. to 46 m. Rotterdam Stat. on the Maas (E. (5); see lite. 3. loam TO THE HAGUE—This line continues W., passing 49 m. Voorburg Stat. (p. 36), where the fast trains do not stop, and reaches 51 in. The Hague Stat. (plan D. 4). 80‘ Routes 12, 13.—Utrecht to Leiden and Kampen. Sect. I. ROUTE 11. ZEVENAAR T0 WINTERSWYK. 32 in. RAID. From Zevenaar (Rte. 9) this line runs N.E. to 11 m. Doetichem Junct. Stat. [branch rly. to (12 in.) Ruin-Io (Rte. 7)], a small town on the Oude Yssel, following the banks of which river a steam tram leads N.W. to Doesborgh and Dieren (Rte. 1%). At 32 in. Winterswyk Junct. Stat. the direct line is reached between Ani- sterdam and Essen in North Germany (Rte. 7). ROUTE 12. UTRECII’I‘ 'ro LEIDEN. 36 m. RAIL. From the W. station at Utrecht the line runs due W. to 8 m. Harmelen J unct. Stat. (Rte. 10), and follows the Gouda rly. as far as 10 m. Woerden J unct. Stat. (4200) on the Old Rhine—once a fortress, and memorable as the scenes of the atrocities committed by the French army, under Marshal Luxembourg, in 1672. Their cruelty, as described by . Voltaire, is not exaggerated; so great was the aversion which it inspired in the minds of the Dutch, that descrip- tions of the war, called “Fransche as school-books for their children to read, calculated to hand down an in- heritance of hate for their enemies to future generations. The ramparts have been converted into agreeable Promenades. In front of the pictu- resque Town-hall is a curious old pillory. Rly. S.W. to Gouda (Rte. 10). Our line continues W. to 18 m. Bodegraven Stat, whence a tramway runs S. in 20 min. to Gouda. 36 in. Leiden Junct. Stat. (Rte. 3). ROUTE 13. UTRECIIT T0 KAMI‘EN, BY zw0LLE. 61 m. RAIL. From the W. stat. at Utrecht the rly. runs N.E., crossing the Amster- dam line (Rte. 8), to 6 In. Do Bilt Stat, a pretty vil- lage, abounding in pleasant gardens (Rte. 9). H In. Amersfoort Junct. Stat. (Rte. ’7), 011 the main line between Amsterdam and Essen. Rly. SE. to Kesteren. 31 m. Harderwijk Stat. (6500). Here are the depOt and training- schools for recruits for the Dutch East Indian army. In a turret near the 01)., the last remains of an ancient Cloister, has been placed a bust of Linnaeus, who lived here for some time. The Yssel is crossed by a long iron bridge to 56 m. ZWOLLE J unct. Stat (24,000). Tyranny,” were written and printed the capital of OVCl‘ljSSOl, a prosperous Holland. commercial town, remarkable for its cleanliness, situated on a small stream called the Zwarte Water. The en- trance from the stat. is through the Bassen Poort, a picturesque old gate- way with 4 peaked turrets. The Ch. of St. Michael, a Gothic edifice (1406) with remarkably lofty tower, contains a handsome carved pulpit (1625), a fine organ, a beautiful modern rood loft, and some well-executed altar- picces and statues. In the Sacrz'sty are preserved the remains, consisting of half the skeleton, of Thomas a Kempis, exhumed 1672, from a Ch. on the Agnetenberg (hill of S. Agnes), 3 m. distant, which was for 64 years his residence. His book on the ‘ Imi- tation of Christ’ is translated into almost every living language. He died here in 1471, aged 91. The hill is now a cemetery, where the richer classes are buried: no graves can be dug on the low ground without coming to water. G. Terburg, the painter, was born at Zwolle in 1608. The gardens and walks which girdle the town are very agreeable. On the canals may be seen barges filled with rushes—many persons living by plat- ting them into baskets and mats. Near the Bethleem Kerk is a small collection of antiquities. lily. N. to Leenwarden and S. to Zutphen (Rte. 14); SE. to Hengelo and Enschede (Rte. 7); N. to Gro- ningen (Rte. 15). Turning W., the rly. now runs to 64 m. KAMPEN Stat. (18,000) a sea- port on the Zuider Zee at the mouth of the ljssel, here crossed by a fine bridge. Founded in the 13th cent, and nnciently one of the most flourish- ing Hunse Towns, it fell into decay, but once more enjoys considerable commerce. The *Town Hall, a Gothic building, with statues of Charlemagne, Alexander, and of the Cardinal Vir- tues, contains in its Council Chamber one of the finest interiors in Holland, panelled with black oak, having de- tached Corinthian columns and screen. lts chimney—piece (1543) and canopied seat for the Burgoniaster, are Very picturesque. At one of the windows [_Ilollund, 1888.] Route 14.—Arnhem to Leeuwarden. 81 is a remarkable iron cage, where pri- soners were formerly exposed. One of the2 fine Churches has double aisles to the nave. Four of the seven old *Town Gates remain, one of which is now a prison. Count Horn, beheaded by Alva, was buried here. This is the only town in this heavily taxed country whose citizens live tax~ free, the wealth of the municipality, the accumulations of past centuries of prosperity, rendering taxes unne- cessary. Kampen, like our Channel Islands, is consequently inhabited by many small capitalists and pensioned officials, whose object is to make a little money go a long way. The ramparts have been transformed into pleasant Promenades. Steamers daily across the Zuider Zee to Amsterdam in 4% hrs. ROUTE 14. annnmr T0 LEEUWARDEN, BY ZUTI’HEN AND ZWOLLE. 105 in. RAIL. Arnhem is described in Rte. 9. The rly. follows the right bank of the Yssel to . 4 m. Velp Stat. A pretty village (3000), much resorted to as a summer residence by the wealthier classes. Close by is the beautiful Park of Rozendaal, with abundant wood and water (fee 50 cents). S in. De Steeg Stat, whence may be visited Rhedersteeg, with its castle of Rhederoord. The Dieren Allce con- neets this place with E5- . 11 m. Dieren Stat. Tramway S.E. in 20 min. to Doesborgh (4 500),a town of numerous ancient houses, and once strongly fortified, at the confluence of the Old and New Yssel. The steam (r 82 tramway is prolonged to Doetz‘chem' (Rte. 11). Passing on the right 14 m. Brummen Stat, where are many pleasant villas, we reach 19 m. Zutphen Junet. Stat. (Rte. 7), on the main line between Amsterdam and N. Germany. Branch r1y.N.E. to Hengelo, S.E. to Ruurlo. 29 m. DEVENTER Stat. (20,000), a thriving fortified town on the rt. bank of the Ijssel, with considerable iron- foundries and carpet manufaetorics. The Protestant Church of St. Lebwin is a vast and interesting cditiee of 1040, surmounted by a handsome W. tower; it has a Romanesque crypt. with twisted and channeled piers; and it contains some good painted glass. There is a Catholic ch. dedi- cated to the same saint (Lebuinus). The Waaghuis (15:28) is of good Gothic in brick and stone, with turrets at the angles. The outer stone stair in front was added in 10113. In the Town Hall is a picture by G. Tcrburg . representing the Town (‘ouncil assem- bled. The painter died here, as burgomaster, in 1681. The English, under the Earl of Leicester, seized Deventer in 1587. The Berg Kerk of St. Nicolas, a spoilt Romanesque building, retains many cannon-balls, relics of that conflict. This was the native place of the philologer, James Gronovius (104:5); and Erasmus was educated here at a monastic school, and hence derived his hatred of religious brotherhoods. Gerrit Grootc the theologian was also born here in 1310. Deventer is celebrated for its ginger— bread or honey-cakes, ot‘whieh many thousand pounds are annually ex- ported; and with a View to keep up their reputation, an oilieer, appointed by the magistrates, inspects the cakes before they are baked, in order to ascertain that the dough is properly mixed. Travellers should ask for the Deventer Koek at any good pastry- cook’s. The eh. of Bathmen, 6 n1. E. of Deventer (Rly. in construction), has some ch-eent. frescoes on its walls. Route 14-.—Deventer——Leemvarden. .Sect. I. 39 m. Wyhe Stat. (4000), a village of pleasant country houses and well~ grown timber. 48 m. Zwolle J unct. Stat. Rly. W. to Kampen (Rte. 13); SE. to Hengelo (Rte. 7), passing (25 m.) Wierden Stat, 7 in. SW. of which is Rijssen, where sacks are largely manufactured. 6* m. Meppel Junct. Stat. (8000), with important factories of calico and a great Butter market. Rly. N.E. t0 Groningen (Rte. 15). 7 3 m. Steenwijk Stat. About 3 m. E. are the Pauper Agricultural Colo« nics of li’ilhcms and lili‘icdriks-Oord, established in 1817 by Genl. van den Bosch, in the hope of rearing an inde- pendent peasant proprietary. 88 In. Heerenveen Stat, a pretty village, whOse name signifies ‘ manor- ial turf-pits.’ Tramway hence to (5 in. W.) Joure, where is a. villa with some good Dutch pictures, and (8 In. further) Sneek Stat. (Rte. 15). The windmills hereabouts are employed for draining the peat bogs. 105 m. LEEUWARDEN J unct. Stat. (28,000), in Frisian Lieuwcrt, a dreary place, though the chief town of the province of Frieslaud. The fortifi— cations are turned into Gardens. In the central square (Hofplein) are the modern Law Courts; the old Resi- dence of the Stadtholder of Friesland ; a large and handsome Townhouse, and an interesting Museum of Frisian an- tiquities. The thcade of the House of Correction (Kanselary), with the date MD, is a rich specimen of mixed brick and stone Work, with 7 statues representing Virtues. &c., upon the steps of the quaint gable. Just within the Harlingen gate stands the *Olde- hoof, a fine church tower of the 15th cent, in red brick and grey stone: the church of St. Vitus. to which it belonged. was destroyed by a storm. From the top of the tower is a fine View over the rich pastures of Fries- land to Harlingen. The new ch. of St. Boniface is a large building of Holland. brown-coloured brick, vaulted with bricks of a lighter hue. It has a graceful tower and spire, and an ex- cellent reredos of gilded metal. The Cattle Market here is the largest in Holland. It is held on the Thurs- day and Friday of every week. The public gardens close to the town are very pretty. No Dutch province has preserved, to the same extent, its ancient man- ners and costumes as that of Fries- land. The head-dress of the women, the gold hoops and pendants, and the beautiful lace caps, are especially de- serving of remark. Such a head-dress sometimes costs 2000 guilders. The women are celebrated for beauty. Many of the towns, villages, and even farmhouses, and all the old churches, are built on mounds (teepen) raised above the surface, which originally afforded refuge to the inhabitants from inundation, before the country was properly dyked. The Friesland- ers pride themselves on having been from the earliest times a free and ill- dependent people, governed by laws of their own, enacted at their legis- lative assemblies. Frisic is still the language of the inhabitants of Heli- goland and the belt of islands that extends along the coast from the Zuider Zee to Jutland, and is also spoken in some districts of E. and W. Friesland and Sleswick. Ameland Isle, one of the Texel groups, was joined to Friesland in 1875, by dykes thrown across the shalloxvs called Wadden, where the 2 tides meet coming round the island. The dykes have been made of faggots faced with masonry, and stretch across from Holward, on the Friesland shore, 8&00 metres long. The alluvial mud washed up by the tides con- tinues to collect about it, and pro- mises to render it permanent. It is expected that a similar process fur- ther carried out will unite the Island Tersehelling also to Friesland. Itly. from Leeuwarden W. to Har- lingen, E. to Groningen (Rte. 15). SW, a line runs to Route 15.-—Harlz'ngen to Nieuweschams. 83 14 In. Sneek Stat. (11,000), a town with an important cheese and butter trade, connected by tramway With Heerenveen and Harlingen direct. The branch rly. proceeds to 26 m. Hindeloopen Stat. (1100), a most primitive little village, with a conspicuous tower. 32 m. Staviiren Terminus Stat. (700), a decayed but very ancient Frisian town, once the royal resi- dence, and seat of the worship of Stavo, the local deity. The inhabit- ants are said to have been formerly so wealthy that they made their bolts, rivets, and weathercocks of solid gold. The ruin of the city is traced to a cargo of wheat, thrown by order of a merchant’s wife into the mouth of the harbour, which took root and formed extensive sand banks, blocking up the channel. The green stretch of barrier is still known as the Vrou- wensand. R0 UTE 15. HARLINGEN TO NIEUWESCHANS, BY GRONINGEN. 7‘.) m. RAIL. HARLINGEN (10,800), in Frisian Horns, is a busy shipping place on the Zuider Zee, whence a large amount of Friesland agricultural pro- duce (butter, cheese, eggs, &c.) is exported to England. It stands on the site of a town swallowed up by the sea in 1131, and is itself protected by one of the largest dykes in the Low Countries, '10 ft. high, fenced in at its base with 3 rows of piles driven into the ground. The monument (Steenen Man) erected by the Dutch to the Spanish Governor Robles, who, after the inundations of 1566, first intro- 6 2 84 duced an improved method of con- structing these barriers, still exists on the sea-wall S. of the town; grati- tude for the benefits conferred having proved stronger than national hatred against a Spaniard. The Harbour (1875) is shut in by 2 piers of 800 and 500 yds. Steamers to London twice a week; to Amsterdam daily in 6 hrs. Tramway to (12 m. SE.) Bolsward (5400), an ancient Frisian town, with a ‘little’ ch. of the 13th cent., and a late Gothic ‘great ’ ch., containing some good woodwork and several handsome monuments. Among the latter is the tomb of G yspert Japz'lrs, the last of the Frisian poets. The Town Hall is also worthy of attention. 6 in. further, the tramway reaches Sneek Stat. (Rte. 14). Leaving Harlingen, the rly. runs E. to 6 m. Franeker Stat. (6800), for- merly the seat of a flourishing Unit-er- sity, suppressed by Napoleon I. (1810), of which Yitringa, Heincccius, Hun- sterhuis, Valckenacr, &e., were pro- fessors. Their portraits are preserved inthe fine old Stadhuis. The great curiosity of the place is the *Plane- tarium, constructed in 17 73 by 152's! nga, a self-taught genius, who never went to school. It is shown by his great grand-daughter, and exhibits the entire solar system, with sun, moon, and stars revolving in their orbits. Upstairs may be inspected the worn dert‘ul machinery of countless wheels, supported on beams of oak, which sets the whole in motion. 17 In. Leeuwarden Junct. Stat. (Rte. 14). The rly. continues L‘. to 26 m. Veenwooden Stat, whence it tramway leads N. in an hour to Dok- kum, where S. Boniface was martyred in 755, while preaching to the Fri- sians. 51 'm. GRONINGEN Junet. Stat. (50,000), a town, once fortified (by Cochorn), and prosperous seaport, very regularly built, at the junction of the Route 15.— GroningenwEmden. Sect. 1. Hunse and Aa; the most important place in the N. provinces of the Ne- therlands. It has considerable trade in grain, especially rape-seed. The fortifications are razed, and the 1mm parts planted for public walks. The University, founded in 1615, is frequented by about 200 students, and has an excellent museum of natural history. In the *Great Market-place stands the Gothic Church of St. Martin, a handsome structure, with a lofty choir, and a tower like that of Utrecht (1627); and the Hotel de Ville, re- stored in 1810, faced with Portland stone. The Hall of Justice, near this market, is a picturesque build- ing. On the Osscnmarkt is the monu- ment of Guyot, the founder of an Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, which is still flourishing, and is one of the largest in Europe. Public examination of the pupils every Wed- nesday morning at 11. Groningen has one of the best Clubs in Holland ———thc Harmonic—where a concert is given every week. By means ofa canalized creek called Reid-diep, large vessels come up from the sea to the town. During the siege of 1672 by the 13p. of Miinster and his troops, the garrison was constantly provisioned by means of this channel, and the Germans forced to retreat; an event which is commemorated by a brardcd head, peeping; into the creek, with an explanatory inscrip- tion. Several of the houses in Groningen are faced with rough masonry, wherein are imbeddcd small particles of glass, which sparkle curiously in the sun. lily. N.E. to (21 111.) Appingedam (1000), a village with a spoilt 13th- cent. ch., and (:25 m.) Delfzijl (5700), a fortified port, on the Ems. Steamers daily during the bathing season across the Dollart in about 1% hr. to Emden Stat. on the \Yestphalian Ely, a fortified town, in the former Principality of E. Friesland (now an- nexed to Prussia). Eniden (13,000) has the most extensive trade in oats of any Holland. port in Europe. It lies in a marshy situation; but the land around it is of great fertility, yielding, besides oats, much butter and cheese. In the Town Hall, a building in the Renais— sauce style, 1576, is a collection of ancient arms and armour, especially rich in early fire—arms—part of the spoils, it is said, of Count Ernst of Mansfeld,‘ captured in a vessel freighted for England with the booty of the Thirty Years’ war. In the great Church is a monument to Count Elmo II. of Fricslalld. The Museum contains interesting local antiquities, objects in amber, &e. A canal be- tween strong dykcs connects Emden with the deep water of the Dollart, and protects the town by a high and strong embankment against the in- cursions of this estuary. On the ram- parts were buried many thousand British officers and soldiers who died here from the sufferings endured in the retreat of the Duke of York’s army from Holland, in the dreadful winter of 1795. The remnant of that force, and among them Arthur Wel- lesley, embarked here. The painters Backhuisen (1631) and Moucheron (1633) were born at Emden. The return journey into Holland may be made by a rly. running al- most due S. to Salzbergcn (Rte. 7) by 15111. Leer J unct. Stat. (7000), with a considerable trade to England in agricultural produce. Steamers pro- ceed up the Ems beyond Leer. [Rly. E. to Oldenburg J unct. Stat, skirting, in the middle of a swamp, a little primitive district called Sater- land, where the old Frisian language is still spoken.] 20 m. Ihrhoven Junct. Stat. Rly. W. to Nieuwcschans (see below). 58 m. Meppen Stat, formerly capi- tal of the ephemeral Duchy of Aren- bcrg-Meppen, constituted (1803) out of the spoils of the secularized Bishop- rlc of Minister. Meppen was an- nexed to France in 1810, to Hanover in 1815. Route 1 5,—Meppen— Winschotea. 85 75 m. Salzbergen Junct. Stat. Rly. W. to Bentheim and Hengelo. Here the line for Hanover and Berlin turns SE. to 80 m. Rheine J unct. Stat. (But‘fcfi. Adirty, ill-paved commercial town on the Ems, with old Gothic church and massive square brick tower. [From Groningen another line runs . S. to 17 m. Assen Stat. (7800), the chief place in the modern province of Drenthe. There is a Museum of pre- historic antiquities, including a bronze sacrificial knife, the wheel of a cha- riot, jewds, and rings, dug up in this province. Near Assen, at Rolde and Zuid< laren, occur examples of those very singular sepulchres of an ancient peo- ple, commonly called Hunnebedden (Dolmen), large rude stones placed upright in the ground, in rows, every pair of stones covered by others laid across, and open at the end; some are 80 feet long. Urns, hatchets,ham- mers, andiother articles of wood and stone, but none of metal, have been found in them. 9 In. W. are the pauper colonies of Veenhuizen, established for the pur- pose of reclaiming beggars. The rly. maintains the same direction as far as 36 m. Hoogeveen Stat. (11,000), and then turns nearly due W. to 48 m. Meppel J unct. Stat. (Rte. 14).] The main line continues E. from Groningen to Ct 111. Zuidbroek Stat. (2700), with an early Gothic eh. of brick. Much of the land hercabou ts has been reclaimed during the present century. Asimilar ch. exists at 72 m. Winsohoten Stat. (6600), 2 m. W. of which is Heiligerlee, the scene of the first Dutch victory over the Smniards under Louis of Nassau, brother of William the Silent, in 1568. A monument erected in 1873, on a 86 Route 16.—R0tterdam to Breda. mound in the battle-field, represents the death of Count Adolph, William’s youngest brother. 79 m. Nieuweschans Stat. (1100), an entirely modern town, on the Dutch frontier. Rly. thence to (12 m. E.) Ihrhoven Junct. Stat, for Emden, Salzbergen, or Bremen. (Sec Hand- book for N. Ger-many.) ROUTE 16. ROTTERDAM 'ro YENLO, BY Baum AND ElNDHOVEN. 97 m. RAIL. For the first part of the rly., through Derdrecht to 21 m. Zwaluwe Junet. Stat, see Rte. 1. Here our line. turns SE. to 28 m. BREDA Junct. Stat. (17,500), fortress on the rivers Merk and Au, whose waters, used to inundate the country around, together with the neighbouring marshes, render it al~ most inam-eSsible to an enemy, but very unhealthy. The *Herformde Kerk, once Ca- thedral (1510), in the market-plm‘e, has a. graceful octagon tower 362 ft. high, surmounted by a Dutch bulbous spire. In the N. aisle is a fine *Momuuent to Count Engelbert II. of Nassau and his wife Maria of Baden, consisting of their recumbent efligies, covered by a slab, on which lies the armour'of the Count, carved in semi- transparent alabaster, resting on the shoulders of four heroes of antiquity, Cmsar, Hannibal, Regulus, and Philip of Macedon. This magnificent tomb, Sect. I. apparently the work of an Italian sculptor, is one of the most remarkable in the north of Europe. See also a rich Flamboyant monument with canopy, enclosing life-size statues of the Virgin and Child, at whose feet kneel John of Nassau, Count of Breda—with his wife—along withtheir patron saints, John Baptist, Engelbert, Jerome, and George, In the chancel is a very fine Flemish brass to the memory ofComte van Galen (1539), and a monument (1536) to the Sieur de Borgnival, chief engineer to Charles V. Behind the high altar is an altar-tomb of the Knight of Renesse and his wife. At the end of the N. aisle is a fine marble tomb of 1510 to Direk van Assendelft and his wife, who kneel together, below a defaced relief of the Last Judgment, and of the Brazen Scr- pent. Other monuments worth notice are those of J an van l‘olanen and his two wives (1384), and of Nicolas Furling (in the choir). Over a small door in the chancel aisle is a good sarco- phagus, and under the choir seats are some well-executed carvings in wood representing ecclesiastics in ludicrous attitudes, intended to satirise the vices of the clergy. The Baptistery at the W. end has a remarkably tine Renaissance font in bronze, the cover of which is raised by a Gothic crane of wrought iron. The Rom. Cath. Cathedral of St. Barbara. is one of the best Dutch examples of revived Gothic (Cnypcrs, arch, 1869), 216 fert long, 66 feet high. It is an early-pointed building in brick and stone. with double aisles, short transepts, apse. lofty lantern, and a deep gallery opening,r above the piers of the nave. The 14 Stations are well carved and coloured. The old Castle was built in 1350 by John van Blanca, Lord of Brcda; the 'nzodern (‘Iuiteaa by \l'illiam, afterwards the Third of England. It is a square building, surrounded by the waters of the Merk. Since 1828 it has served as a Military Academy, acconnnodat- ing 192 cadets. Here are good stables and an ample stud, a swimming school, and an extensive plateau, with Holland. cannon of every calibre, Which sup- plies the means of drill applicable to each branch of the service. Breda was taken from the Spaniards, in 1500, by a singular stratagem con- certed between a brave veteran capo tain of Prince Maurice’s army, named l’leraugiere, and one Adrian Vanden- berg, owner of a barge which supplied the garrison with turf for fuel. On Feb. 26, Heraugibrc, and 80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, and were carefully covered over with a cargo of turf. The boat was so much impeded by contrary winds and half -frozen water, that the third day passed before it arrived within a mile of the town. To add to their perils the vessel sprung a leak; the soldiers stood up to their knees in water; and one of them began to cough so violently, that for fear he should cause detection he en— treated his companions to run him through with his sword. Luckily they were not rigorously examined by the guard, and the sacrifice of the brave soldier was not required. It was not till midnight 011 the 3rd of March that the sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, and the boat was dragged in through the ice by the very garrison who were so soon to suffer from its entrance. They carried off so much of the turf for their use, that the boards which covered the concealed band were nearly laid bare ; but they did not inspect the cargo very minutely; and Vandenberg con- trived by his wit and jokes to turn away their attention, and finished by making them drunk. As soon as they were asleep, Captain Heraugiere and his soldiers issued forth from their miserable retreat; the sentinels were killed, and the rest of the garrison. terrified at the sudden and unexpected attack, abandoned the castle without even the precaution of breaking down the drawbridge leading into the town, which was entered a few days after- wards by Prince Maurice and his army. After several fruitless attempts on the part of the Spaniards to regain Breda, it was taken in 1625, by Spinola, who burnt the famous barge which had contributed to its capture. Route 16.—Tilburg——— Venlo. 87 Charles II. resided at Breda during part of the time of his exile from Eng- land. From Breda he issued his Declaration to Parliament in 1660. Here was signed the Peace of 1667, between England, France, and the United Provinces and Denmark. Leaving Breda, the rly. proceeds E. to 42 m. Tilburg J unct. Stat. (30,000), with a modern Gothic 011., and large factories of cloth and calico. Rly. S. to Turnhout (Rte. 46); N13. to Nymegen (Rte. 18). Tramway N. in 1% hr. to qualwyk. 52 m. Boxtel Junct. Stat. Buffet (4500), a busy little town. Rly. N. to Utrecht (Rte. 20); E. to \Vesel (Rte. 23). The D. of Wellington, in command of 3 battalions of the D. of York’s ex- peditionary force, here first went into action with the French in 1795. The main line running S. from Utrecht to Liége is 110w followed as far as 65 m. EindhovenJunct. Stat. (3400), a busy manufacturing town of brick gabled houses in one long street, with a square at either end. It lies on the confluence of the Gender and the Dommel, and possesses many manu- factories worked by steam or water- power. Pleasantly situated, it is surrounded by well-cultivated fields, gardens, and pretty villas. St. Catherine’s is the finest modem-ch. (Rom. Oath.) in the Low Countries (Cuypers, arch). It is of brick, 237 ft. long, with 2 W. spires, 2-14 ft. high, and nave, 71 ft. Rly. S. to Liége (Rte. 20). Our line turns E. again to 73 m. Helmond Stat. (7500), on the Willems canal. Fine ch. and Town Hall. Tramway N. to Veghel (Rte. 23). A peat bog, called Dc Peel, 25 m. long, is traversed. The river Maas is crossed to reach 97 m. Venlo J unct. Stat. (8800), on the rt. bank of the Maas, celebrated 88 in history for the many sieges it has stood. 10 times it has changed hands, but the ramparts were levelled in 1868. The Catholic Ch. has finely carved stalls, and a Renaissance high altar of marble. Steamer twice a week to Rotterdam. Rly. N. to Arnhem, S. to Roermond (Rte. 19), NE. to Wesel, E. to Cologne, SE. to Strassburg. ROUTE 17. DORDRECHT T0 ARNHEM on NYMEGEN. (56 or 63 m. RAIL. From Dordrecht (Rte. 1) this line runs E., turning N. to cress the broad Maas just before reaching 7 m. Sliedrecht Stat, immediately to the S. of which lies the scene of a. terrible inundation in 1421, when the tide in the estuary of the Rhine, excited by a violent tempest, burst through a d 'ke overwhelmimr a o l a ' _ o. populous and productive district, which it at once converted into a waste of waters, called the Biesbosch (15.6. rushwood, from bies, rush, akin to English bosom), part of which still exists. 72 villages and 100,000 human beings were swallowed up by the waves. 35 of the villages were irre— trievably 10st, so that no vestige, even of the ruins, could afterwards be dis- covered. The only relic preserved from the waters is a solitary tower, called the House of Merwede. By this inundation the number of the mouths of the Rhine was increased, and the Waal was made double its former size. A large part of the district has been recovered; but the river still bears the aspect of a lake Route 17 .—D0rdrecht to Arnhem. Sect. I. interspersed with numerous islands, uninhabited, but producing hay in abundance. 15 m. Gorcum Stat. or Gorinchem (9800), an old walled town, at the junction of the Merwede and Linge, and one of the first places taken by the Water 3‘rueux from the Spaniards in 1572; but they sullied their victory with the torture and murder of 19 Catholic priests and friars, for which their commander, Lumey, was dis- graced by the States~GcneraL The anniversary of the Martyrs of Gorcum is still marked in the Romish calen- dar, July 9. The canal of Zederick connects Gorcnm with Viancn on the Lek. Nearly opposite Gorcum is Woudrichem, or Worcum, to the E. of which stands the Castle of Loevestein, situated on the west point of the island of Bom- mel, formed by the united streams of the Mouse and the \Vaal. Here Grotius was condemned to imprison- ment for life in 1619. The history of his escape in a box, March 22, 1621, gives an interest to the spot:—~Hc beguilcd the tedious hours of confine- ment by study, and composed the greater part of the ‘Jus Belli ct l’acis ’ here. 20 months of imprison— ment thus passed away. llis wife new began to devise projects for his liberty. She had observed that the guards who examined the chest used for the conveyance of his books and linen at length permitted it to pass without much scrutiny; whereupon she bored some holes in it to let in air, intrusted her maid with the secret, and the chest was conveyed to Grotius’s apartment. She then revealed her project to him, and, after much entreaty, prevailed on him to get into the. chest, and leave her in the prison. The chest, supposed to be full of borrowed books, was then moved into the boat, accompanied by the maid. One of the soldiers 0b- serving that it was uncommonly heavy, the maid answered, “ It is the Arminian books which are so heavy.” The soldier replied, apparently in Holland. joke, “Perhaps it is the Arminian himself ; ” and the maid, when fairly afloat, made a signal with her hand- kerchief to her mistress that all was right. The window where Grotius’s wife stood is still pointed out in L0- evestcin. 0n reaching Gorcum, the chest was deposited at the house of Jacob Daatzclaar, an Arminian friend of Grotius. The maid flew instantly to him, and told him that her master was in the box ; but Daatzelaar, terrified for the consequences, dc- clarcd he would have nothing to do with so dangerous a matter. Luckily his wife had more courage; she sent away the servants on difi'erent er- rands, opened the chest, and set Grotius free. Having dressed him- self as a mason, with a rule and trowel, he went along the market- place, to a boat engaged for the pur- pose, which conveyed him to Waal- wijk, in Brabant, where he was safe. Mrs. de Groot was not detained long in prison, and rejoined her husband soon after in Paris. There is usually a frigate in the Dutch navy bearing the name of Grotius’s wife, Marie van Reigersbcreh: history has rescued from oblivion the name of the trusty maid—servant also—Elsje van Hou- wcning. 31 m. Geldermalsen Junct. Stat. (2500), on the Linge, where the direct line is crossed between Utrecht and Boxtel (Rte. 20). 39 m. Tiel Stat. (9000), a pretty town on the rt. bank of the Waal, birthplace of General Chassc, the de- fender of Antwerp citadel. ~16 m. Kesteren J unet. Stat. [Branch rly. N. to Amcrsfoort (Rte. 13). On this line, 3 m. from Kcsteren, lies Rhenen Stat. (4500), on the rt. bank 9f the middle branch of the Rhine. l‘here is a very fine Gothic church With a handsome tower (1493—1531). A large quantity of tobacco is culti- vated in this district. Frederick, King of Bohemia, lived here in re- tirement, under the protection of his uncle Prince Maurice of Orange Route 17.——Rhenen—Nymegen. 89 (1620). 4 m. E., on the Heimenberg, is a bench called Konz‘ngstafel, the Elector’s favourite point of view. N.W. of Rhenen, l. of the road to Amerongen, at the entrance of a. meadow, under some willow-trees, the English traveller will remark the graves of some hundreds of his countrymen, prisoners taken in the Duke of York’s army, in 1794, who died in the hospital at Rhenen. From Rhenen a tramway follows the right bank of the Rhine in both directions, opening up communication with va- rious places formerly visited by steamer E. to Wageningen and Arnhem (Rte. 9) ; W. in 1% hr. to Wijk by Duurstede (3000), the Roman Batavodurum. In the time of Charlemagne it was known as Dorestadz'um, and was bestowed by the Emperor upon the see of Utrecht, whose bp. still has an old villa here. The branch of the Rhine which alone retains that name to the sea here separates from the Lek, originally a Roman canal, and under the name Kromme Réjn (winding Rhine) de- scends t0 Utrecht. 7 In. W. of Wyk, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, is the stat. of Culemborg (Rte. 20). Utrecht may also be reached by tramway from Wyk in 2% hrs, via Driebergen and Zcist (Rte. 9).] From Kesteren the rly. continues E. to 55 m.Va.1burg J unct. Stat, where a loop line in each direction connects it with the rly. between Arnhem and Nymegen, running due N. and S. Proceeding N., we reach 66 m. Arnhem J unet. Stat. (Rte. 9); or S., 63 m. NYMEGEN Junct. Stat. (29,000). This frontier fortress of the Netherlands is situated on the 1. bank of the \Vaal, and built on the side and slope of a hill called the Hoenderberg, on which the Romans formed a permanent camp (No'vz'oma- gum) to protect theirgBelgie posses- sions from inroads of the Germans. 90 The *Town Hall (Raadhuis), a building in the style of the Renais- sance (1554), ornamented in front with 2 rows of statues of German emperors, benefactors of the town, is chiefly remarkable as the place where the Treaties of 1678—9, between Louis XIV., Charles II. of Spain, and the States-General of the United Pro- vinces, were signed. It contains por- traits of the ambassadors upon this occasion, and Roman antiquities dug up in the neighbourhood. The sword with which the Counts Egmont and Horn were beheaded at Brussels is also shown here, as in numerous other towns of Holland and Belgium—a striking instance of the little value which can be justly attached to relies, even of a comparatively recent period. Coins, municipal curiosities, instru- ments of torture, and a sarcophagus formed of tiles, are among the most remarkable objects. The Church of St. Stephen, begun in 1272, is an inte- resting Gothic building of brick, in the form of a Greek cross, and con- tains, in the centre of the ancient choir, the monument of Catherine of Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of Egmont, Duke of Gelders. Her life-size effigy is engraved on a plate of copper, and upon smaller plates at the sides are figures of the Apostles and coats of arms. Upon an elevation, which for this country is considerable, stood the Castle of the *Valkhof, commonly called het Hof, said to have been built by Julius Caesar, and inhabited by Charles the Great. It was de- molished in 179-]: by the French. The only parts now remaining are a fragment of the church and a very perfect Chapel or Baptistcry (lG-sided) near the brow of the hill : it is rather rude Romanesque .and probably of the 12th or 13th cent. The space of ground adjoining it, once a part of the ramparts of the town, is planted with trees, and serves as a public walk, overlooking the river and quay. On another eminence a little higher up rises the *Belvedere, a lofty summer-house built by the town, on the foundation of a tower, said to be Route 18.—Flushz'ng t0 Nymegen. "Sect. I. part of a chateau of the Duke of Alva, now converted into a cafe‘. The view from the summit comprehends the rivers which branch off at the head of the Delta 0f the Rhine, viz. the Rhine, the Waal, and the ljssel, with the Maas flowing on the S. This is the most interestin g spot in Nijmegen, and, together with the few other sights, may be seen in two hours. The view from Berg-en—dal, 2 hrs. distant, passing through Ubbergen and Beck, is also charming. Pleasant walk of 20 min. to the Duivelsberg‘ (Devil’s Hill). Nijmegen remained from 1585 to 1591 in the hands of the Spaniards. A bold attempt made in 1589 by Martin Schenk van Nijdekj‘ a Gel- derland nobleman, to surprise the town, failed, and he was drowned. His body, when found by the Spani- ards, was quartered and hung in chains at the principal gates, but was afterwards interred in the Great Church by Prince Maurice. One of these chains is preserved in the town hall. In 1672, Marlborough, then Captain Churchill of the Grenadier-s, serving under Turenne at the siege of Nij- Inegen, attracted that great general’s praise by his bravery, and was called by him the handsome Englishman. Steamer daily to Rotterdam in about 7111's., calling at Tiel, Bommcl, Gorcum, and Dort. Fare, 2 t1. ROUTE 18. FLL’SIIING T0 NYMEGEN, BY BREDA AND IlnnTerNnosen. 117 m. RAIL. This journey is described as far as 47 In. Roosendaal Junct. Stat, in Rte. 1. Hence the rly. continues E. to 63 in. Breda Junct. Stat, and follows Rte. 16 to 1- See Motley’s‘ History of the Netherlamls.’ "Holland. Rte. 18.—Heriogenbosch. Rte. 19.—Maastrz'cht. 75 m. Tilburg Junct. Stat, where it turns N.E. to 87 m. HERTOGENBOSGH J unct. Stat. Fr. Bois-lc-Duc (25,000)—the chief town of N. Brabant, and a strong fortress until 1876. The *Cathedral of St. John, the finest complete ecclesiastical edifice in the kingdom, begun about 1300, is, as it now stands, chietly Flamboyant (14194497), 400 ft. long; piers with- out capitals. The nave, with double aisles, is over 100 ft. high: brrt the best part of the eh. is the choir and apsc with radiating chapels. The choir-stalls are good woodwork of 15th cent. The Baptistery, separated from the S. aisle by a metal railing, contains a fine l2-sided Font of brass, with elaborate metal cover and crane (1-102). The well-modelled figures represent the cripples of the pool of Bethesda. N. of the choir is the Chapel of the Sacrarncnt, restored in 1886, ending; in an apse; and E. of this is a quaint octagonal Chapter- honsc, the lower portion of which forms a crypt. The 15th-cent. Chan- delier of brass, with 7 small figures, and the frieze of carved woodwork over the brass screens which surround the choir-apsc, deserve attention. The transepts are spacious, with octa- gonal lantern—tow'er. At the W. end is a large brick tower, surmounted with a steeple. The line Organ, as well as the l’nlpit, has richly carved woodwork of 1560. This Ch. was long possessed by the Calvinists, till Napoleon I. restored it to the lloman Catholics, who form the majority in the Dutch provinces of Brabant and Limhurg. 1n the Ch. of St. Catharine are some pictures formerly belonging to the Abbey of 'l'ongerloo (Rte. 7 7). The Stadhuis, surmounted by a tower with a tine set of chimes, was built in 1670, and contains paintings and armour. (Fee, 50 cents.) The Noord- brabant Museum (open from 1 to 3) has various Roman and Frankislr antiquities, collected in the neigh- bonrhood. ltly. nearly completed W. to Waal- 91. wyk, whence a. line runs to Zwaluwe (Rte. 1). SE. a steam tramway leads in an hour, following the course of the Zuid-VVillcms~Kanaal, to (10 m.) Heeswyk, the seat of Baron can Ter Brugge, which contains a valuable collection of weapons and medizeval curiosities, readily shown to visitors. (Fee, 1 ii.) The tramway proceeds to Veghel, where it crosses the rly. described in Rte. 23; and thence to Helmond Stat, between Eindhovcn and Venlo (Rte. 16). The rly. continues nearly N.E. to 100 in. Oss or Osch Stat, where artificial butter is largely prepared for export to England. Tramway S. to Veghel. 117 m. Nymegen Junct. Stat. (Rte. 17). {QUITE 10. MAASTRICHT TO ARNIIEM, BY nonn- rroxn. 94 in. RAIL. MAASTRICHT (30,000), the Roman Trajeelum ad Mosam, capital of the Dutch portion of the Duchy of Lim- burg, lies on the 1. bank of the Maas, and is united by a bridge of 9 arches to the suburb called Wyk. It was one ofthe strongest fortresses in Eu- rope; bnt its works are now disman- tled. Together with Venlo and Beer- mend, it _ adhered to the King of Holland, and was coded to him by the treaty of 1831. The great strength of this town in former times has subjected its inhabi- tants to the misery of numerous sieges. The most memorable was that of 1579, 92 Route 19.—Maastricht when the Spaniards, under the Prince of Parma, took it by assault, at the end of 4 months, after having been repulsed in 9 separate attacks by the garrison, which included a few English and Scotch soldiers: they were all put to the sword, and nearly 8000 of the townspeople massacred. It was thrice taken by the French, 1673, 1748, 1794; , but William III. of England failed before it. Maastricht was preserved to Holland by its garrison in Sept. 1830, and was the only place which resisted efiectually the insurgent Belgians. The Stadhuis, in the middle of the great market-place, is a square iso- lated building, with Spire and chimes (1662); it contains a Library and collection of Paintings, with some Tapestries. Proceeding from the market-place through the Rue de Casque, in which is the Post inice, you reach The *Ch. of St. Servatius (once cathedral), a vast and ancient Ba- silica, resembling some of the Rhine churches. Its E. apse is flanked by 2 Romanesque towers of 5 stories. The 'W. end, originally the narthex or vestibule, new blocked up, is sur- mounted by a very massive tower, improperly called Tour de Charle— magne, since it dates from the 12th cent. The splendid S. portal, 40 feet high, is in the early-pointed style, with statues and rich foliage. The interior is lofty and imposing, with round arches on the original square piers (restored in 1860 by Cuypers). The vault, windows, and side chapels date from 15th cent. Here is a Descent from the Cross, by ’mzdyck, and a Statue of Charlemagne, by (Refs. Through the very perfect lath-cent. Cloisters you reach the Treasury (Schatkamer), containing many eccle- siastical curiosities; the copper-gilt shrine of St. Servatius, with 16 sta- tuettes and 12 bus-reliefs, 12th cent.; his staff, T head, and robe, 4th cent.; an enamelled oblate box, 13th cent.; an Arab cofl‘ret of ivory ; 2 ivory horns. (Fee, 50 cents.) St. Servatius was Bishop of Tongres in the 4th cent: Sect. I. that see, transferred in the 5th cent. ' to Maastricht, was in 721 finally re- moved by St. Hubert to Liége. The old Romanesque Ch. of Onset Vrowe (our Lady), passed on the way to St. Peter’s Gate, is said to rest on Roman substructions. Its broad and lofty W. front is flanked by turrets. Its apse is raised upon a very old Crypt, and is surrounded by 2 tiers of arches. Behind the altar are 2 piers of 1 detached shafts with capitals elaborately carved. : Churches; Petersberg. The *Petersberg, a hill rising above Maastricht, on the 1. bank of the Nurse, is excavated by Subterranean Quarries of great extent, which may be visited in about 2 hrs. Carriage to the entrance of the Caverns, 3 fl.; guide, including torches, 2 to 3 fl.; make a bargain. The distance from the market-place is about 2% 1n., and the way leads through St. Peter’s Gate and between the river and canal. Some of the passages are wide enough to admit horses and carts. They cover a space of 13 miles by 6 m.; the number of passages amounts to 16,000, 20 to 50 ft. high and 12 broad ; they are supposed to have been first worked by the Romans. The galleries, running generally at right angles, and lined by many thousand massive pillars, left by the excavators to support the roof, cross and intersect each other so as to render it exceedingly difficult to find the way out; and it is dangerous to enter this singular laby- rinth withouta guide. Many liveshave been lost for want of this precaution; among others, I Recollet friars perished in 164:0, in attempting to form it her- mitage in a remote spot. They had provided themselves with a clue, which they fastened near the entrance, but the thread on which they de- pended broke. In time of war the peasantry of the surrounding country have frequently sought refuge in the caves, along with their flocks and herds. The rock is a soft yellowish calcare- ous sandstone, not unlike chalk, and of the same geological age. It is cut out with a saw, and is used for build- Holland. ing, as it hardens on exposure to the atmosphere; when reduced to sand it is very serviceable as manure. It abounds in marine fossil remains; besides shells and crabs, large turtles are found in it, together with the bones of a gigantic lizard-like reptile, more than 20 ft. long, called the fossil Moni- tor. The caverns are remarkably free from all moisture, and their tempera~ ture scarcely ever varies. An hour’s walk, in the course of which one may penetrate more than t a mile and re- turn to the entrance, will satisfy the curiosity of most persons, but it is pos- sible to pass through the cave and come out at a different place. About 300 yds. from the entrance, higher up the hill, stands the Lichten- berg, a Watch Tower, or Peel of the Bp. of Liege, of 12th-cent. date. Below this is the Casino of Slavanten, formerly a Servite Monastery, com- mandin g an exquisite view over Maas- tricht and the valley of the Meuse, 300 ft. beneath. Steamer to Hertogenbosch on Tues, Thurs, and Sat, returning on the alternate week days. Rly. E. to Aix-la-Chapelle (Rte. 22); W. to Antwerp (Rte. 55); S. to Lihge (Rte. 21). The Stat. is on the rt. bank of the Maas, fully a mile from the centre of the town. Omnibus, 15 c.; carriage, 50 c. The Arnhem lino runs N., generally parallel with the stream, to 18 m. Susteren Stat. (2000) on the l.. whence an omnibus plies 3 times a day (fare 50 c.), to (5 m.) Maaseyck (4250), on the opposite bank of the Maas, where the painters Van Eyck were born (1380-90). A marble monument to the Brothers was erected here in 1864. Rly. S.W. to (2G in.) Hassclt (Rte. 55). 29 m. ROERMOND J unct. Stat. (10,000). an ancient and once populous City, at the confluence of the Boer with the Maas, possessing important cloth factories. The *Minster (Notre-Dame, 1218-24) is one .of the finest Roman- Roate 19.-—Maaseyclc——Roermond. 93 esque buildings in the Netherlands. It has transepts at W. and E. end, shallow choir, two towers flanking nave and choir, and alantern over the crossing. These, with the large W. porch, have been restored by Cuypers. The W. transepts are beautiful Early Pointed. The original high altar exists at the E. end. An altar in the S. transept has a triptych reredos of the finest carved work, with hundreds of minute figures. Among many ancient monuments are those of Gerard 111., Count of Gelders, and Margaret, his wife, the founders. The Roman Catholic Ch. of St. Christopher is a large and handsome building, with 3 large and 14: small towers, a fine organ, carved oaken pulpit, and confessionals. It contains several paintings, the principal of which are the Ascension of Christ, by l/Villebroodt; the Descent of the Holy Ghost, by De Witt,- tho Four Evan- gelists, with St. Peter and St. Paul, by Van Helmont; a Christ, of the School of Rubens ,- and a Holy Family, by Linssen. Itly. W. to Antwerp (lite. 77). The Arnhem line still follows the rt. bank of the Maas to 44 m. Venlo Junct. Stat, beyond which the Maas is crossed to the suburb of Blerich, and the line to Rotterdam (Rte. 16) turns oif to the l. 67 m. Boksmcer Stat, a small town on the rt., with an old town-hall and castle. At 70 m. Beugen Junct. Stat, we cross the rly. between Boxtel and Wesel (Rte. 23). 76 m. Mock Stat.,on the battle-field of which, in 157+, the princes Louis and Henry of Orange, brothers of William the Silent, were killed. 82 m. Nymegen Junet. Stat. (Rte. 17). Further on, at Besscn-Bemmcl and Elst stations, the loop lines to the left diverge N. and S. respectively, as described in Rte. 17; and the direct rly. reaches 9t in. Arnhem J unct. Stat. (Rte. 9). 94 ROUTE 20. UTRECHT T0 Lines, 131' ACIIEL. 120 m. RAIL. Departure from Utrecht by either the E. or W. stat. The latter is the more convenient. The morning ex- press reaches Liege in 6 hrs., without change of carriages. Passengers, if asked to which of the four stations at Liege they intend to book, should give the preference to Guillcmins (see be- low). The *long girder bridges across the broad rivers which intersect this line are very remarkable. Crossing the l'aurtsche Ryn (see below), and leaving on the l. the Arnhem rly., the train passes several detached forts, and runs S. to 11 m. Culemborg Stat. (5000), the ancient seat of the Counts of liuilen- borg. Here the Lek is traversed by a single-arched bridge of 16$ yds. span, one of the widest in Europe. The entire length of the bridge, including causeway, is 770 yds. Steamers hence to Rotterdam, passing (8 1n.)Vreeswyk, where are the large sluices of the Vaartschc Run, a canalized branch of the river, which flows N. to Utrecht. Opposite Yreeswyk, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, lies Vianen, said to be the Fanu-m .Dianze of Ptolemy. It formed part of the patrimony of the patriot Count of Brederode, who fortified it for the Prince of Orange on the outbreak of the revolt of the Netherlands. Between Viaucn and Kuilenborg there are sluioes in the banks of the river, designed solely for laying the country under water in case of foreign invasion. If they were opened, the inundation would spread as far S. as the Waal, as far as Dort to the W., and to the Neort in an opposite direc- tion. A military inundation of this Route 20.-— Utrecht to Liege. kind is a mode of defence peculiar to Holland. It effectually cuts off the means of approach from an army either by land or water; it covers both roads and canals, leaving an enemy in igno- .r 11nd Sect. I. rance of their direction and course; , and, while it is deep enough to check the march of troops or cannon, it is so interrupted by shallows and dykes, as to render its navigation by boats equally impracticable. The Linge is crossed before reaching 17 m. Geldermalsen Junct. Stat. (Rte. 17). and the broad Ward on another striking bridge to 23 in. Zalt-Bommel Stat. (4000), once a fortress. besieged in vain by the Spaniards in 1500, and taken by T11- renne in 1672. The. truncated tower of the eh. is lofty and imposing. Here lived JIaurtr-n ran. Res-sum, general of Charles of Egmont, duke of Guelders (see. Arnhem), whose house, a remark- able building. still exists. Up to this point the Waal is a tidal river. The island of Bommel, Bommeler \Vaard, between the \Vaal and the Meuse, which here unite their waters, is defended on the E. by Fort St. Andrew, and on the \V. by Fort Loesttein (see Gorcum). The rly. bisects this island, and quits it by another iron bridge % m. long, with huge stone buttresses, just beyond 26 in. Hedel Stat, on the rt. bank of the Maas, opposite the fort of Créve- Ctl‘ill‘. At 30 m. Hertogenbosch Juuet. Stat. the line is crossed between Breda and Nymegen (Rte. 18), and the train proceeds to 38 in. Boxtel J unet. Stat. (Bufi‘et), where the rly. from Dordreeht falls in (Rte. 16), and the Yenlo line. is fol- lowed as far as 51 in. Eindhoven J unct. Stat. Hence we continue S. to 58 in. Valkenswaard Stat, a breed- ing place of falcons, on the Dutch ’ Holland. frontier. is reached at 63 m. Achel Stat., where the exami- nation of luggage is usually very lenient. At 67 m. Neerpelt J unct. Stat., we cross the rly. between Antwerp and Diissel- dorf (Rte. 77). 73 m. Wychmael-Beverloo Stat. 6 m. S.W., near the latter village, is the permanent Military Camp for exercise and instruction of the Belgian army, capable of receiving 15,000 men. At 88 m. Hasselt J unct. Stat. our line unites with that from Antwerp to Maastricht (Rte. 55), and runs E. to 95 m. Beverst J unct. Stat. we turn S. again to Here 105 m. Tongres Junct. Stat. (Rte. 71), where the little river Geer is crossed to its right bank, and the rly. runs SE. to 113 m. Liers Junct. Stat. Branch rly. S. by Rocour to Ans (Rte. 53). Near the village of Bocour the French, under Marshal Saxe, gained a great victory over the Bavarians and Austrians in 1746. 117 m. Herstal Stat., birthplace of Pepin the Tall, Maire du Palais to the last Merovingian Kings of France, and great-grandfather of Charles the Great, is a long village of workmen’s houses, stretching nearly 3 m. up to Liege. In the Great Square (la Cour) are remains of a Palace of Pepin. The first of the four stations on the left bank of the Meuse at Li‘ege is that of Vivegnis; the second, Palm's (near- est to the centre of the town); the third, Jonfosse; all of which are con- nected by the Chemin de fer de Cein- ture with 120 In. Liége (Guillemins) Junct. Stat.,fully 1% 111. from the first‘nained (A.1). Cab to the hotel, 1 fr.; luggage, 25 c. Tramway to the Place du Thidtre, hand luggage only taken (B. 4). Liege is described in Rte. 52. Route '21.—'Maasti'z'cht to Liege. The Belgian custom-house . ‘ 95 ROUTE 21. MAASTRICHT 'ro LIiJGE, BY EYSDEN. 19 m. BAIL. Maastricht J unct. Stat. (Rte. 19) lies beyond the suburb of \Vyk, 011 the rt. bank of the Maas, which is crossed by a bridge of 9 arches. The last place in Holland, and the Dutch custom- house, is 6 m. Eysden Stat., and the Belgian frontier is reached at 9 m. Visé Stat. (2600), once a for- tress, and the head-quarters of Louis XIV., in 1673, during the siege of Maastricht. The fortifications were razed in 1775. This is said to be the northernmost limit of the cultivation of the vine. 11 n1. Argenteau Stat. The modern chateau above the rly., belonging to Count Mercy, is finely placed on the summit of a rocky height. It is con- nected by a bridge with another rock of fantastic formation, surrounded by extensive gardens. On the opposite side of the river is Hermallc, where baskets are made. 13 m. Wandre Stat., facing which, on the 1. bank of the Meuse, is Her- ‘ stal (Rte. 20). 16 m. Jupille Stat. (3200), on the river, peeping from among the trees, was the favourite abode of Pepin of Herstal, who died (TM) in a castle on the site of the present Glzciteau. The train new leaves the river, de- scribes a wide curve to the rt., passes under the heights of the Chartreuse, and reaches 19 m. Liege (Longdoz) Stat., on the rt. bank of the Meuse (C. D. 2). Cab, 96 Route 23.——Breda to Cologne. 1 fr.; tramway to the Place du Thé— atre, close to the principal hotels (Rte. 52). The river Meuse has been canalized between Licge and Maastrieht, and the canal furnished with looks, so as to maintain a passage for vessels at all seasons. ROUTE 22. LOUVAIN T0 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, BY MAASTRICHT. 75 m. RAIL. - This journey is described in Rte. 54 as far as 10 m. Aerschot Junct. Stat., where it turns E., and runs through Dicst and Hasselt to 52 111. Maastricht Junct. Stat. (Rte. 19). Here the line turns N., and describes a wide curve to regain its E. direction, crossing the Geule at 55 m. Meerssen Stat. (5000). The rt. bank of the stream is now fol« lowed to 59 m. Valkenberg Stat. (French, Fauquemont), a pretty village, once strongly fortified. The ruins of its ancient castle are highly picturesque, and the promenades of La l’oudriére, Ermitage, and Kuytenbcrg uti‘ord charming views. The Greulc (or Gulp) is quitted at 62 m. Wylre Stat. (1550), and the Dutch custom-house reached at 66 m. Simpelveld Stat. (1700), 2 m. beyond which the Prussian frontier is crossed, and the train proceeds to 75 m. Aix-la-Chapelle Junct. Stat. (German Aachen, Dutch Alma). See Handbook for .N. Germany. l Sect. I. f ROUTE 23. 151mm T0 COLOGNE, BY 130mm. AND “‘ESEL. 174 m. RAIL. A convenient route for those who wish to see Xanten and Diisseldorf on the way; but the direct rly. from Goch (see below) to Cologne is shorter by 19 m. The first part of this line, as far as 52 m. Boxtel Junet. Stat. (Buffet), is described in Rte. 16. Thence to 63 in. Veghel Stat., on the Zuid- Willelns Canal. Tramway S. to Hel- mond (Rte. 16); NJV. to Hertoqen- bosch; and N. by Men to 058 (Rte. 18). At 79 m. Beugen Juuct. Stat, we bi- sect the direct line between Venlo and Arnhem (Rte. 19), and cross the Maas to reach 82 m. Gennep Stat, the last in Holland. Passing the frontier, the Prussian Custom-house is gained at 90 m. Goch Junct. Stat. Itly. N. to Cleve, S. to (05 in.) Cologne (Rte. 24); while we continue 1‘}. by Xunten (remarkable *church on the l.) to 115 m. Wesel J unct. Stat. Here the Rhino is crossed, and afterwards its tributary the Lippe, while the train takes :1 SE. direction to 131 m. Oberhausen Junct. Stat, and thence proceeds almost due S. to 150 m. Dusseldorf J unct. Stat, fol- lowing thc rt. bank of the Rhine to Dent, where the river is crossed to 17$ in. Cologne Junet. Stat. (See Handbook for N. (hrmany) ? Holland. 7 ' ROUTE 24. ARNHEM T0 COLOGNE, BY CLEVE AND soon. 96 m. RAIL. Leaving Arnhem, this rly. runs 8.13. to 9 m. Zovenaar J unct. Stat. (Rte. 9), the last in Holland. Crossing the frontier, we reach 14 m. Elten Stat. (Prussian Custom- house). Turning S., the Rhine is crossed to 21 m. CLEVE Junct. Stat. (10.000). Here is a tine *collegiate church of the 14th cent, with remarkable monu- ments of the dukes of Cleve. The Schwanenburg rises abruptly from ‘ the centre of the town (Roman altar in the court), and the *Schwanen- thurm, a tower of 1439, nearly 200 ft. high, commands a striking view. The l’rinzenhof, Thiergarten, and Eltenbel'g, form delightful prome- [Holland, 1888.] Route 24. —Arnhem to Cologne. 97 nodes. (See Handbook for’ N. Ger,- many.) [Branch rly W. to 7 In. Cranenbnrg Stat. (Prussian Custom-house) and 10 'm. Groesbeek Stat. (Dutch Custom-house), Where the line curves N.W. to ‘ 17 m. Nymegen J unet. Stat. (Rte. 17).] Our line continues S. to 28 m. Goch Junct. Stat, where it crosses Rte. 23, and runs S.W. to 41 m. Geldern Junct. Stat, on the Niers, the ancient capital of the duchy of G-uelders, but ceded to Prussia in 1713. Beyond 53 m. Kempen J unet. Stat, the birthplace of Thomas it Kempis, the rly. runs nearly due E. to 60 m. Crefeld J unct. Stat, and thence S. through Neuss, aIOng the 1. bank of the Rhine, to 96 in. Cologne Junct. Stat. (See Handbook for N. Germany.) .1( 98;) s E C T I O N I I. BELGIUM. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. § 17. Passports.-—— 18. Money.— 19. Dz'lz'gences; Hired Carriages. —' 20. Railroads; Post and Telegraph—21. Vigilantes, Guides, and Touters.— 22. Inns.—23. General View of Belgiznn.——24. Belgian Cities and Archi- tecture—25. Chimes (Carillans) and Clocl.-s.——26. 11701413 of Art ; the Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens—437. Tours in Belgium; W'aterloo; the Mensa; the Ardemles. ROUTES. * " List of places me printed' 111 black 0an in the Routes under “11th they me described. ROUTE PAGE ROUTE PAGE 31. London to Antwerp, by the 50. Bxussels to Eecl0o by Ter- Sehelde. . 109 monde . . . 195 32. London to B1ussels, by Ostend, 51. Bruges to Ghent, by Eeeloo. 196 , Bruges,an11 Ghent. . . 1:26 52. P1111: to Liege, by Namur 33. London to Brussels, by Calais, and Huy . . 196 Lille, Tournai, Enghien, 53. Brussels to 00100119, bV Title- and Hal 147 mont and Verviers . 204 34. Toumai t0 Ghent by Courtrai 173 54. Antwerp to Charlemi, by 35. Courtrui to Brussels, by Viilers and Ligny. . 207 Oudenarde . 175 55. \ntVVerp to M.1-.1st1icl1t,by 36. Coultrui t0 II1zeb10uck, bV A01schot . 209 Yp1es . . 176 ‘1 56. B1ussels to Paris, bv Valen- 37. C0111 trim to Enghien . . . 177 ‘ ciennes and Douai. . . 210 138. Dunkirk to Ghent . . 177 57. Paris to BruSsels, by Tergnier 39. Ghent to Mons, bV Bluton . 1‘79 . and Mons . . . . . 212 40. Flushino‘ to Malines, by 58. Mons t0 Ottignies. . :314 '1‘ erneuzen . . . 180 59. Mons to Antwerp, by Alost. 215 41. Ostend to Lille, by Ypres . 183 60. Ghent to Clml'leroi . 216 42. Bruges t0 Courtrai . 184 61. Chu1leroi to Givet, by V1- 43. Louvain to Ghent, by Malines 1eux. . . 216 and Termonde . . 185 62. B1ussels to Waterloo. . . 217 44. Antwerp to Ghent, by Ter- 63. 01111111101 t0 Mons . . 223 um ued 188 64. Brussels to Luxemburg, by 45. Antwerp to Ghent, by St. Ottignies, \mnur, and Nicolas . . . . . . 188 A11011 . 223 46. Antwerp to Tilburg, by 65. Liege to Mauloie, by the Hérenthals and Turnhout. 189 \ ale of the Ourthe: The 47. Antwerp to B111ssels, by Ardennes . . 227 Malines. . 190 66. Namur to Givet, by Dinant. 230 48 Antwerp to Rotte1dam,’ by 67. Naxnul to P1111s,by Laon ancl Rail,retu1ning by Steame1 191 Soissons . 233 49. Brussels to Namur, by 68. Li‘ege to Luxemburg, by Spa. 234 Nivelles and Charleroi . 192 69. Brussels to Chimay . . .239 x Belgium. § 17.’ Passports—18. Money.——19. Diligences. , 99 room . ‘ PAGE ROUTE PAGEv 70: Namur to Tirlemont . . . 240 74. Brussels to Givet, by Ottig- 71. Tirlemont to Tongres, by nies and Chatelineau . . 243 St. Trond . . . .' . 240 75. Chatelineau t0 Tubize . . 244 72. Gouvy to Arlon, by Houf- 76. Libge to Verviers, by Battice falize, Bastogne, Ber-trix 77. Antwerp to Dusseldorf, by and Bouillon . . . . 241 Roermond . . . . . 245 73. Landen to Ciney, by Huy . 243 , 78. Menin to St. Amaudj. . . 2-16 § 17. Passron'rs. , Not officially required in Belgium, but see Introduction (d). § 18. MONEY. The currency of Belgium is the same as that of France, except as regards copper coins, which are replaced by small nickel pieces of 5, 10, and 20 , centimes. These are not current out of their own country, but French sous . are accepted everywhere. The Dutch cent is equal to about 2 centimes. BELGlAN AND FRENCH MONEYS. s. (l. Silver coins: 1 franc : 100 centimes . 2 Std. English. % franc = 20 centimes . = O 2 % franc : 50 centimes . = 0 4% 2% francs : 250 centimes . : 2 n 5 francs = 500 centimes . . = 4 0 Gold coins: Leopold d’or, Napoleon, or' __ 1 G 0 20-franc piece . . .} _ Piece de dix francs : 8 0 ,, cinq ,, . . = 4 0 Nickel coins of 20 centimes = 2d. English ; 10 0. English. Copper pieces of 2, 5, and 10 centimes. ' The Bank of Belgium issues notes of the value of 1001), 500, 100, 50, and _ €20 francs. 1d.English; 5 c. = % . H / § 19. DILIGENCES; HIRED CARRIAGES. Well-appointed coaches connect all towns and villages not served by train ’ IOr steam tramway; but the English traveller will have little occasion to make use of them, except perhaps in the Ardennes. A complete list, with Ifares and hours of starting, is given in the ‘ Guide Otiieiel ’ (see below). .Hired Carriages—The average charge with 2 horses is about 25 fr. a day, and 3 fr. to the driver; but back fare at the same rate is always demanded. For short excursions of half a day or so, 12 to 15 fl'., all included, according to bargain. Carriages ordered at the hotel are generally che best, but always the dearest. H2 ‘3' ..«,._v.- .-,‘_- . ioo .- «s 20. Railroads; Post and Telegrdph. . ‘TSe'ct. I‘LT . ‘ \i > . ‘ , \ - § 20. RAILROADS. Belgium, owing to the level surface of the country, is peculiarly well suited for railroads, and their ramifications extend through all parts of the kingdom. Lines to the extent of 500 m. are in the hands of the Government. The rest, about 1200 m., belong to private companies. The rate of travelling does not exceed 20 m. an hour, while express trains attain a speed of only 35 m. Separate smoking compartments and Ladies’ , Carriages. The fares are the lowest in Europe, and are fixed at the uniform rate of 80 c., 60 c., or 40 c., for 5 English miles, according to the class selected. A return ticket for 5 m. each way, lst-class, costs 13.; and even these low rates are reduced in proportion to distance. The charge for luggage, however, is very high. Only hand-baggage is allowed free; everything else is weighed and charged for separately. If the traveller wants to stop at several towns in succession, it saves much time and expense of porterage to send on the baggage to the furthest point to await his arrival. Baggage registered at London or Dover for Brussels or Cologne will not be detained at the frontiers of France or Prussia, but will await the arrival of the owner at Brussels or Cologne before being searched. Nest of the hotels frequented by English travellers send an omnibus to and from the station, at a charge of l t‘r., or in small towns, 50 e. Failing this, cabs may almost always be hired, and many stations have an authorized band of porters. It is hardly necessary to remind the traveller that a station likely to be crowded should be reached in good time, especially where much luggage has to be transmitted. Main Stations in the larger towns are provided not only with Bufl‘ets (Restaurants), but also with convenient dressing-rooms (Cabinets de Toilette). ~Most of the minor stations are small and inconvenient, and often without any accommodation. There is frequently no separation in the waiting-rooms between the passengers of difi‘erent classes; and the traveller, locked in until the moment when his train arrives, must make the best of a somewhat mixed society. The moment of departure or of arrival is marked by hurry. crushing, and confusion, and he who does not keep his wits about him stands a very good chance of being put into the. wrong train. For this reason, the traveller is recommended to come to a clear under standing with the condueteur 011 the question of changing carriages. Brancl lines are extremely numerous in Belgium; and the rules afi'ecting each trail are liable to such constant variation, that it has been impossible to indicatt the points of changing with any certainty, in the description of the Routes. The. best Time-Tables are the ‘Guide Otiieiel des Voyageurs sur tousde Chemins-de-t’er Belges,’ with map (sold at the stations), price 20 0. Enlarge map, 15 0. POST AND TELEGRAPH. Postage, within the country, 10 c. (ld.); to England, France, Switzerlau &c., 25 e. (2%.): post-cards for foreign countries, 10c. (111.) Telegrams, 20 words, to any station in the country, 50 0. (5d,) The lint are connected with England by the Submarine Telegraph Company. 3 l Belgium. §i21.- ngtentés.—22. ifla8.'—23. General View. 1‘01‘ § 21. VIGILANTES, GUIDES, AND TOUTERS. The tariff of charges for a cab, or Vigilante. is throughout Belgium 1 fr. the course,- or by time 1—21 fr. the first hour; 1 fr. for each hour subsequently., Two or more persons had better take a vigilante rather than the omnibus—— money as well as time is saved. There are many places which may be seen in 3 or 4: hrs., where the traveller may halt between two trains, leave his luggage at the station, and explore the town with great comfort in a vigilante. , No encouragement whatever should be given to the pestilent class of street guides or touters who bore you with offers of services in the cities of Belgium. They are impudent always, generally incompetent, and often extortionate in their demands. Those who propose to place themselves under such guidance should apply to the landlord of the hotel. § 22. INNS. The duties of a landlord are well understood in Belgium, and there is no lack of good hotels in the large cities, and even of comfortable inns in out-of- the-way places—all of which are specified, as far as possible, in the following pages. As a rule, in choosing a wine, Burgundy is obtained in Belgium etter than Bordeaux. Prices are constantly rising, but the average charges are—in the first-class ,hotels—for a bed, 3 to 5 fr. ; Late dinner at the table-d’héte, 4 to 5 fr., with- out wine; Dinner a-part, 5 to 6 fr. The table-d’hote in smaller towns is usually at 1, and costs only 3 fr., but persons who wish to dine in the evening can do so 21 Ia carts, or at prz‘wfixe, for about 4; frs. A bottle of vin ordinaire, 3 fr.; Breakfast, with eggs, 2 fr.; tea or cofi'ee and bread and butter, 1 fr. to 1% fr.; Servants, 50 c. to 1 fr. per diem; Candle, 50 c. or 75 c. Some of the best suites of bedrooms have a sitting-room attached to them. Belgian Beer may be tasted as a curiosity, but is generally pronounced insipid by the stranger. Its chief varieties are Faro, Brune, Diest, and Lambig. § 23. GENERAL VIEW or BELGIUM. The N. and E. provinces of Belgium resemble parts of Holland (§ 7), and in their flatness, their fertility, and the number of their canals (§ 9) and dykes (§ 8), can be geographically regarded only as a continuation of that country. This Teutonic portion of Belgium teems with population, so that, in traversing it, it has the appearance of one vast continuous village. The S. provinces, on the contrary, including the Ardennes, consist mainly of a rugged district of hills covered with heath, or dense forests, which still harbour the wolf and the boar, intersected by rapid streams, and abounding in really picturesque scenery, the effect of which is increased by the frequent occurrence of old feudal castles. It is but a thinly peopled district; and its inhabitants, called Walloons, are a rough and hardy Celtic race. The N. provinces are further distinguished from the S. by their language. A line drawn nearly E. from Gravelines to the Lys, and down that river to Menin, and from Menin nearly due E., passing a little to the S. of Brussels and Louvain to the Meuse, between Maastricht and Liége, marks the 102 , g ‘ § 23. General View #3495er . Sect:'IIr. boundary of the French and Flemish languages. The people living on the N. .of this line speak Flemish, those on the S. French. Another, though more- undulating line, drawn from Menin, passing between Valenciennes and Mons, to the frontier near Chimay, would mark the boundary of the two French dialects spoken in Belgium; the people on the W. of this line speaking the Picard dialect, those on the E. of it the Walloon. , The population of Belgium exceeds 5,600,000; of which about two-fifths speak French (the Picard and Walloon dialects), the other three-fifths Flemish. In the provinces taken separately, there is generally an uniformity of race and language. In respect to race, Brabant does not probably differ much from the other provinces, but in respect to language it is an exception to the rule, about one-third of its inhab. speaking French and two—thirds Flemish. The French Belgians are, in general,more civilized than their neighbours. Having the immense advantage of the use of a great literary language spoken by all travellers and foreigners, they keep nearly all the shops and hotels, and con-’ sequently have a larger intercourse with the world. In Belgium every acre maintains 2 men; wealth, as in France, is pretty equally distributed. The class of employers, with their families, count nearly a third of the whole inhabitants. The original kingdom of the Netherlands, constructed by the Congress of Vienna. 1815, and afterwards parted into 2 kingdoms by the Belgian RUVOllb tion 0f1830, was “ kept together rather by the pn ssure of surrounding Europe than by any internal principles of cohesion.” The limits of Belgium were defined by Arts. L, 11.. and IV. of the Treaty of London, 1831; and by Art. VII. it was made an independent and perprtually neutral state under the guarantee of the five Great Powers. The Belgians differ from the Dutch in two essential points, which are quite sutficicnt to make them incapable of any permanent union; they are French in inclination and Roman Catholics in religion. Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic patriotism which have distinguished the Dutch annals; there is nothing marked in their characters; and though free from that plodding patience and cold calculation which belong to their phlegmatic neighbours, they are equally devoid of the high-minded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. Though lovers of liberty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succession of foreign masters, Burgundiau, Spanish, Austrian,- or French. The mania of the Crusades having possessed with especial fervour the nobles of Flanders, they were incited to make every species of sacrifice in furtherance of their favourite purpose. Lands, political powers, and privileges were parted with on the spur of the moment, to furnish means for their expedition. Their wealthy vassals, the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by their riches, to purchase their independence. They forthwith formed themselves into communes or cor- porations. and began to exercise the right of deliberating on their own affairs; elected bailifi's (scepenen. Fr. écherins); obtained a jurisdiction of their own, and with it a great seal; and evinced their sense of these advantages by building a huge Belfry, or a vast Town Hall, as a trophy or temple of their liberties. But though the Flemish burghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords much sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by their petty jealousies and quarrels among one another. To use the words of a distinguished British historian, "Liberty never were a more unamiable countenance than among these burghers, who abused the strength she gave them by cruelty and insolencc.”—-—Hallam. They have sntl‘cred for their faults; their government has been subject to perpetual changes, and their country has been the scene of war for centuries—the Cocltpzt of Europe. He that would travel with the full pleasure of historical associations should be. well read in Froz'ssart and ‘ Philip de Comines ’ ere he visits Belgium. \ fBeIgiu'm'. . §24. caramel Architecture: ‘ ,103 Motléy’s Histories of ‘ The Rise of the Dutch Republic,’ and of ‘ The United Netherlands.’ 1861—67, apply as much to Belgium as to Holland. , The Arms“ of the Belgian kingdom are the ancient arms of Brabant, viz., a golden lion rampant on a sable field, with the modern motto “ L’Union fait 1a. Force.” The national colours are red, yellow, and black. An excellent Map of Belgium, published by the Military Cartographical Institute (1888), may be had at Kiesslz'ngs, 72, Montague de la Cour, Brussels. Scale, 1 : 320,000, or about 5 m. to the inch. § 24. BELGIAN CITIES AND ARCHITECTURE. Belgium contains a multitude of interesting examples of architectural skill eminently worthy of careful study, and sufficient to illustrate fully the rise and progress of Gothic architecture, and the re-birth of Italian art. , ‘ “It is in the streets of Antwerp and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school -——those fronts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly ornamented; the whole comprising a general efi'ect, which, from its grandeur and intricacy, at once amuses and delights the spectator. In fact this rich intermixture of towers and battlements, and projecting windows highly sculptured, joined to the height of the houses, and the variety of ornament upon their fronts, produces an effect as superior to those of the tame uniformity of a modern street, as the cnsque of the warrior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a Quaker.”——Sz’r lValter Scott. In England, Gothic architecture is chiefly confined to churches; in the Netherlands it is shown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even to dwelling-houses. The Town Halls (HOtels dc Ville, Halles, &c.) at Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Oudenarde, Brussels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention; they are most perfect examples of Gothic; and it may truly be asserted that nowhere else in Europe are any civic edifices found to approach V in grandeur and elegance those of Belgium. Amongst the privileges granted to the towns when they first acquired communal rights none seem to have been deemed greater, or were more speedily acted upon, than the right of building a bclfry to call together the citizens. and a hall as a general meeting-place. The domestic architecture of Belgium offers an infinite variety, and numerous hints for present application. Within a very small circle, in some cases even in a. single city, examples maybe found of the different styles of building which have prevailed at intervals, say of 50 years, from the 11th or 12th cent. to the present time. At Tournai, a most interesting old town, there are several exceedingly ancient houses; Ghent and Mechlin furnish other examples. . Thc‘opulent burghers of these cities, once the most flourishing in Europe from their commerce and manufactures, were little inferior to princes in Wealth ; and the municipal structures which they founded may compete with the ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magnificence: they are in fact civic palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, for the meeting of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the municipal government, and sometimes of courts of justice. f Belgian Churches, the following are best worthy of notice from an architectural point of view :— Rommresque.—-—Orypt of the Chapel of the Holy Blood, Bruges; nave and transcpts of the Cathedral of Tournai; St. Gertrude, Nivclles; St. Vincent, Solgnies; St. Bartholomew. W. front of St. James, and W. apse of St. Cross, Liege; St. Servatius, and Notrc-Dame, Maastricht. 104’ ' . ' ‘ § 25. Chimes and Clocks. -‘Seet. II; Early Pointed—St, Martin, Ypres; Notre-Dame, Bruges; choir and transepts of St. G'udule, Brussels; Cathedral of St. Paul, Liege; St.‘Leonard, Léau; Notre-Dame, Tongres ; Notre-Dame, Dinant. Middle Pointed—Choir of the Cathedral of Tournai; Cathedral of Notre- Dame, Antwerp: Cathedral of St. Rumbold, Mechlin; nave of St. Gudule’, Brussels; Parish Church of Acrschot; Notre~Dame, Hal ; Notre-Dame, Huy. Late Pointed—Cathedral of St. Baron, Ghent; St. Martin, Alost: St. James, Antwerp; St. Gummar, Lierre; St. James and St. Martin, Libge; St. Peter, Louvain; Abbey Church of St. Hubert; St. Waltrude, Mons. The churches are usually open till noon ; but as the side chapels, the choir, \ and the finest pictures are locked up, it is necessary, even at the open hour, to resort to the Suisse, or beadle, to see them. Considering its large and almost exclusively Catholic population, Belgium has remarkably few episcopal sees. The only archbishoprie is that of . Meehlin; the bishops are those of Bruges, Ghent. Tournai, Namur, and Libge. Brussels and Antwerp are both included in the diocese of Mechlin. The most remarkable Monastic and Feudal Editices and Ruins are the Castles of Bouillon, Viandeu, Autoing, and the Abbeys of Villers, Orval, and Echternach. The characteristics of the cities of Belgium are given in the following Latin verses :— . “ Nobilibusi‘ Bruxella viris, Antverpiai nummis, Gandavum§ laqueis. formosis Burga ll puellis, Lovaniumfil doctis, gaudet Mecklinia'H' stultis.” § 25. Cnmns (CARILLONS) AND CLOCKS. Chimes, or carillons, were invented in the Low Countries; they have cer- tainly been brought to the greatest perfection there, and are still heard in every town. They are of two kinds: the one attached to a cylinder like the barrel of an organ (an tambour), which always repeats the same tunes, and is moved by machinery; the other of a superior kind, played by a musician, with a set of keys (an clavecin). In all the great towns there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a church, who performs with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the church steeple. So fond are the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music that in some places the chimes appear scarcely to he at rest for ten minutes, either by day or night. The tunes are usually changed every year. Chimes were in existence at Bruges in l300—thus the claim of the town of Alost to the invention, AD. 1487, is disposed of. The most noted carillonneur was Matthias van der Gheyn, who died in 1785, one of a family eminent in that line. The finest chimes are at Antwerp, composed of 99 bells; Mechlin, of 44 bells; Bruges, of ~10 bells and 1 hour-don; Tournai, ~10; Ghent. 39; Louvain (St. Gertrude), 40. The public clocks in Belgium strike the hour half an hour beforehand: thus, at half-past 11 the clock strikes l2. 1- Brussels was the seat of the Court, and therefore the residence of the nobility. Antwerp was, perhaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. § The magistrates of Ghent. were compelled by Charles V. to wear a halter round their necks. l Bruges still retains its reputation for pretty girls. 1] The University of Louvain. in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. 'H- The men of Mechlin thought their cathedral tower was on tire and pumped upon it, whereas it was only the moon shining through its tracery. s \ ‘Belgiiimi. ‘ \ ' \§: 26hWor-7cs of_Art.‘ ' ‘ l ‘1053 1. §26. WORKS or ART.—THE SCHOOLS 0F VAN EYCK AND RUBENS. It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an eminent degree of perfection. The art of sculpture, in stone, wood, and’ ivory, was cultivated here from the middle ages, as is shown by triptychs and other relics preserved in sacristies of churches and museums, down to Nicholas Faidherbe (17th cent), Duquesnoi, Quellin, &c. ; but, above all, this country has had the rare distinction, at two definite periods, of producing two original Schools of Painting; the founders of which, in both instances, , equalled and even surpassed their contemporaries throughout the whole of ‘ Europe in the excellence of their works. The brothers HUBERT and JOHN VAN EYCK, the founders of the early school, are believed to have flourished between 1370 and 1445. The painters were enrolled at Bruges as early as 1358 into a guild, which enjoyed the same privileges as any other corporation, and attained the highest . reputation under Duke Philip the Good, whose court at Bruges was resorted to by men of learning and science, as well as by artists of the first eminence in Europe. It was in consequence of this patronage that the brothers Hubert ‘ and John van Eyck (the latter sometimes called John of Bruges) settled there, and have left behind them so many proofs of their skill as painters, some of which still remain at Bruges, while their masterpiece, a subject from the Apocalypse, remains the chief ornament of St. Bavon at Ghent. In the’ days of the Van Eycks the corporation consisted of more than 300 painters, who were enrolled on the books, and formed the most celebrated school of art of the time. . . The depth and brightness of the colours in the pictures by the Van Eycks, and their perfect preservation, are truly a source of wonder and admiration, and prove with what rapid strides these artists had arrived at entire perfection in one very important department of painting. With the brothers Van Eyck must be associated HANS MEMLING, of the same school, whose masterpieces exist at Bruges in the hospital of St. John and in the Academy, and fascinate all artistic visitors by their exquisite feeling, their marvellous finish, and their purity of tone. The ruling spirits of the second epoch of Flemish art were RUBENS and his distinguished pupil VAN DYCK. Of the former painter Sir Joshua Reynolds justly remarks: “It is only in large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase in proportion to the size of the canvas on which they are to be displayed. His superiority is not seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works, which are seldom eminently beautiful. It does not lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general efi'ect,~—in the genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. “The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius,———to attract attention and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating,r power that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though they have, perhaps, fewer defects, yet appear spiritless, tame, and insipid; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer,, Schutz, Segers, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose hands, and indeed all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined; and it is evident that everything they did was the effect of great labour and pains. The productions of Rubens, on the contrary," seem to flow with a freedom and prodignlity, as if they cost him nothing; and to the general animation of the composition there is always a correspon- dent spirit in the execution of the work. The striking brilliancy of his 106; r , Vi §26. Works ofArt'. " . Sect. II. R colours,‘and their lively opposition to each other; the flowing liberty and freedom of his outline; the animated pencil with which everyiobject is touched,—all contribute to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator: awaken in him, in some measure, correspondent sensations, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the painter was carried away. _ “Rubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which ‘it is necessary for every artist to assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measure to throw aside the fetters of authority; to consider the rules as subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules; to ' risk and to dare extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensations, and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by which he may be truly said to have extended the limits of the art. After Rubens had made up his manner, he never looked out of himself for assistance: there is, consequently, very little in his works that appear to be taken from other masters. If he has borrowed anything, he has had the address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the theft is not discoverable. “Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter’s eye ; he saw at once the predominant feature by which every object is known and distinguished; and as soon as seen, it was executed with a facility that is astonishing; Rubens was, perhaps, the greatest master in the mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil. 1' “However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellencies which would have perfectly united with his style. Among those we may reckon beauty in his female characters; sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it; they are healthy and comely women, but seldom, if ever, possess any degree of elegance ; the same may be said of his young men and children. His old men have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer; but he never possessed a poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian or the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which is conceived of such beings, the spectator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with every day. “The incorrectness of Rubens. in regard to his outline. oftener proceeds from haste and carelessness than from inability: there are in his great works, to which he seems to have paid more particular attention, naked figures as eminent for their drawing as for their colouring. He appears to have enter- tained a great abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the . old German and Flemish painters ; to avoid which, he kept his outline large and flowing: this carried to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in his figures. Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his drapery, especially that of his women; it is scarcely ever cast with any Choice or skill.” Belgium possesses at the present day a School of Modern Painters, whose works have high claims to attention, and maybe seen at the yearly exhibi- tions of Ghent, Antwerp, or Brussels, as well as in the palaces, museums, and churches of the principal towns. The historical pictures of Wappers, dc Keyser, de Biefve, Lcys, Navez, Wiertz. Gallait, Braekeleer, the animals of Verboekhovcn, and the genre pictures of Madou, are worthy of being placed by the side of thcbest productions of any modern school. «Belgium §27.- Tours: ‘Waterlm ; The Meuse, Etc. ‘_ 107: $27. TOURS m BELGIUM.~—WATERLOO.—THE Mensa—THE ARDENNES. ‘ Officers of the army, and students of military history, interested in visiting the battlefields of Belgium, may conveniently adopt the following Tour of the Waterloo Campaign. Days. Days. ]. Charleroi—train to 3. By Point du J our and Marchiennes Stat. Sombrefi'e to Quatre-Bras. Dampremy. Gemioncourt. Genappe. 2. By Gilly and Lambusart to Mont St. Jean; Hougomont. Fleurus Stat. Ligny Stat. 4. Field of \Vaterloo. Belgium is not distinguished for its cities alone; it possesses most , picturesque scenery, especially in the valleys of the Meuse and its tributaries. That river, between Diedenhofen and Liege, makes a wide sweeping semi- circle, and receives from the country on its rt. hank its tributariesthe Semois, Lesse, Hoyoux, Ourthe, and Amblbve. Each of these rivers is remarkable for its Winding course and phasing scenery, and all more or less deserve to be explored, the Meusc itself being the most interesting ; while the H. Téte d'Or at Dinant. H. d’Harscamp at Namur, and H. d’Aigle Noir at Buy, or any of . the first-class hotels at Libge or Spa, will serve as excellent headquarters for exploring it. ' The centre of this district, from Which most of these rivers take their rise, _ is the ARDENNES; a wild country of healthy highlands, intersected by valleys of great beauty. It deserves the notice of English travellers far more than it has hitherto received. “"ithout the sublirnity of Switzerland, it has great picturesquencss, and for those who are limited for time it presents, a fine field for pedestrian or carriage excursions, within 24 hours’ reach of England. The mineral springs at Spa attract large numbers of visitors, and the place for beauty and gaiety rimls the best German watering-places. To . the antiquary and artist, the district of the Ardennes ofi'ers inexhaustible sources of study, in its remains of all ages, castles, churches, and manoirs. It has of late been made very accessible by the opening of numerous rail- , ways up the Mense Valley along its banks, from Libge to Givet, by the Great Luxemburg Rly., by that from Spa to Lnxemburg, by the Chemin de Fer de l'Ourthe, and by the branch from Gouvy to Bastogne. On the borders of the Ardennes are the towns of Liege, Spa, Namur, Dinant, and Luxem- burg, any one of which forms an excellent starting-point. It is intersected by good roads, the result of constant labour since 1850. Still it is the fit and proper country for the pedestrian, especially if he be an angler, since many of the rivers afford a prospect of good sport. Bridges over these streams " are however scarce, and wading in sometimes necessary. The characteristic— fmtures of the Ardcnnes are wildness; heathy and rocky hills, with dark rapid streams winding round them; vast forests of oak stretching over the plains and crowning the hills, peopled with wild boars and deer; villages at long . intervals, dirty and poor; cottages thinly scattered among the valleys, and castles frowning from rocky heights, embosomed in woods. The Inns, small, simple, homely, for the most part are mere village hostelries; yet they are generally clean, and the traveller may live well on ‘ the fine mutton reared on the heathery hills, or on wild boar and tame pig fed on acorns of the forest. Venison, roe, hare, and other game are common 108 ' 928‘. Skeletonl'wrs in‘mé‘Ardénnes.‘ " Sect. II. " fare. Nowhere is richer milk or more delicious honey. Add to this, the charges'hitherto are not immoderate. . ‘ Angling—Trout and grayling chiefly abound. The Ourthe is reckoned one of the best fishing streams, and La. Roche and Rochet‘ort are good stations ‘-—so also is Dinnnt for the Meuse and its tributaries. The chief innkee are very often rent the fishing and also the shooting. The rivers are close in B. _Valleys of the Mouse, Lasso, Ourthe 1‘ April and May. SKELETON Torus IN THE ARDENNES, ETC. A. Valley of the Meusc. 1% Liége. I Huy. It Namur. : Dinnnt. t Givet. [ ls‘ifigfiles in France. i Monthex-mé (Abbey of Val Dieu). [ Bouillon. * Florenville. Abbey of Orvel. Virton. Luxemburg. and Scnzois. Nemur. Dinant. Valley of the Losse. Freyr and Montaigle. Nnmur. ‘ Liege. 1 Valley of the Onrthe to Coinblnin ‘ Stat. Ambléve Valley. Melreux Stat. for La. Roche. Marloie Stat. Rochefort Stat. Hen sur Lesse. Poix Stat., for St. Hubert. Bertrix Stat. Omnibus to Bouil- 1011. Florenville Stat. Virton Stat. . .w _ 'Iiiiseinblii O R a 11‘ I‘reves 0. Valley of the Semois. Arlon. Virton. Abbey of Orval—ruins. Florenville. Conques (ruined Abbey). Herbeuinont. Bouillon. Alle. Bohan. 'l‘hilay Suspension Bridge. Monthermé, at junction of the Semois with Mouse — Slate Quarries—Abbey of Val Dieu. Me'zi‘eres and Sedan. Valleys of the Amblévc and Ourthe, Spa. Stnvelot Stat. Trois Ponts Stat; junction of the Sahn with Ambléve. Cascade of Coo. Rond diverges from the Ambleve to Stouniont. Quarrenux (Valley strewn with rocks). Return to river. Remonchamps. Path by the Ambleve, or fly. Aywnille. Comblain - an - Pont ; Suspension Bridge. Donxfimnme; at the Junction of the Ainbl‘eve and Ourthe. Esneux. Tilti‘. Libge. energium. 1503656 Div—1407101071; E0 zimwerp. lUU ROUTES THROUGH BELGIUM. ROUTE 31. LONDON T0 ANTWERP, BY THE SCHELDE. Distance about 210 m.—time, 17 to 20 hrs.; sea passage about 6 hrs. Steamers, rid Harwz'ch, Gt. Eastern Rly. 00., daily except Sunday. Fares, 265. and 153., including railway; re- turn, 405. and 248. Night passage. _ To Antwerp direct—Gen. -Steam Ncw. 00., from Irongate and St. , Katherine’s Wharves, every Wed. and Sat. at 1 1’.M.; fares, 16s. and 113.; return, 258. and 17s. Antwerp Co. (the Baron Osy), from St. Katherine's Wharf, every Sunday at noon, return- ing on Wed. at 1. Fares, 203. and 128. ; return (2 months), 303. and 208. Queenborough to Flushing, steamers twice daily, in about 8 hrs., in connec- tion with the London, Chatham 8: Dover Rly. Co. Through fares, 26s. and 15s. From Flushing a steamer crosses the Schelde several times a day to Terneuzen, whence rly. to Antwerp (Rte. 40). Below Terneuzen both banks of the Schelde belong to Holland; but, above the termination of the island of Zuid Beveland, the river flows through Belgian territory. The artificial embankments on each side of the Schelde are protected against the current, and masses of floating ice brought down in winter, by piers and breakwaters of piles driven into the river bed, or by masonry brought from a considerable ‘ distance in the interior, principally from N amur. 0n approaching Forts Lillo (rt) and Liefkenshoek (l.), the city of Antwerp with its tall spire appears in sight. These two strong works remained after the Belgic revolution in the hands of , the Dutch down to 1839, when they were dismantled and given up to the Belgians in exchange for Venlo in Limburg, in conformity with the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance. They completely commanded the passage up and down the Schelde, which here puts on the appearance of a river; lower down it is more an arm of the sea, flowing between the islands of Zeeland. The polders (§ 10) above Fort Lief- kenshoek, on the 1. bank, were laid under water during the contest with the Dutch, by cutting the (lykes. Five or 6 other forts are passed on either side of the river before arriving at Antwerp. Between (1.) Calloo and (rt) Oorderen, in 1585, the Prince of Parma threw across the Schelde his celebrated bridgct 2400 ft. long,. which, by closing the navigation of the liver, and preventing the arrival 0t" supplies to the besieged city of Ant— werp, mainly contributed to‘its sur- render. The bridge was so strongly built that it resisted the floods and ice of winter; 97 pieces of cannon were mounted on it, 2 forts guarded. its extremities, and a protecting fleet was stationed beside it to assist in' repelling any attack. The besieged made every effort to effect its destruc- ' tion. One night, the Spaniards were surprised by the appearance of 3 1- See Motley’s inimitable description of the siege in his ‘History or the United Nether- lands.’ 110 ~ . blazing fires floating down the stream, and bearing ,directly towards the bridge. These were fire-ships invented by a Mantuan engineer (Giambelli), then within the walls of Antwerp. The Prince of Parma rushed to the bridge to avert the threatening danger, and nearly lost his life; for one of the vessels, reaching its destination with great precision, blew up with such tremendous force as to burst through the bridge in spite of its chains and cables. 800 Spanish soldiers Were , destroyed by the explosion, and Parma himself was struck down senseless by a beam. Some untovard mistake, however, prevented the eo-operution of the Zeeland fleet at the right \moment, and allowed the Spanish general time to repair the damages; further attempts to destroy the bridge proved also unsuccessful; and Ant— werp, reduced by famine, was com- pelled to surrender. In February, 1831, while hostilities were in progress between Holland and ,Belgium, one of the Dutch gunboats, in sailing up the Sclieldc during a heavy gale, ran aground, close under the guns of fort St. Laurent, below -Antwerp, and within a few yards 01' the docks. The helpless situation of the gunboat had been marked by \crowds of Belgians from the shore; and the moment she was fast, a body of volunteers leaped on board, in haste to make a prize of the st 'auded vessel. Her commander, a young oflicer namcd V8.11 Speyk, who had been brought up »at the public expense in an orphan house at Amsterdam, was called on, in a triumphant tone, to haul down his colours and surrender. All chance of rescue, and of successful resistance, appeared hopeless; when a violent explosion took place suddenly on board, and the danntless commander, with 28 of his 31 men, were blown into the air. Nobody doubted that Van Speyk himself had done the deed, rather than surrender. A monument was set up to his memory by the side of that of De Ruiter, and it was de- creed that henceforth a vessel in the Dutch navy should always bear the name of Van Speyk. 1' Route 31:?Antwerp.‘ ‘_ ' 'Sect. Il‘. ANTWERP (Flem. Antwerpen, Fr. A'Iwers, Span. 'Amberes). INDEX. PAGE Athénée Royal . . . . . 124 Augustinians, Ch. of . . . 116 Botanic Garden . . . . . 124 Boucherie, La. . . . . . 1'32 Bourse . . . . . . . 122 Calvary. at St. Paul’s . . . . 116 Capuchin Ch. . . . . . 117 Cathedral . . . . . . 111 (‘ercle Artistique . . . . . 12-1 Citadel . . . . . . 1‘15 Commercial Museum . . 111-1 Concerts . . . . 1:4 Creches . . . 124 Docks and Basins . . 124 Exchange . . . . 12.2 Fortifications . . . . 125 Grande Place . . . . 123 Guild of St. Luke . . . - 111 llarmony Society, Gardens of . . 1 17 lthcl de Ville . . . . . 122 Imnierseel Chapel . . . . 12:: Jesuit Cu. . . . . . 117 Maison llanséatique . . . . 12:1 Maison llydraulique . . . . 1133 Municipal Library . . . 11:1 Musée i’lantin . . . . . 1113 Museum of Antiquities . . . . 1212 Museum of Commerce . . . 1211 Museum of Ecclesiastical Alriltllllil s 121 Museum of Modern l‘ietu: es . . . 1121 Museum of Painting . . . . l 17 National Bank . . . . . 124 Notchohm, Collection oi Mons. . . 1‘21 Noiré Dame, Ch. of . . . . 111 Orphanage 101‘ Girls . . . . 1‘11 I‘alais de Justice . . . . . 124 l‘alais du Roi . . . . 12?. Park . . . . . . . 1:3 l‘épiniere . . . . . . 117 Picture Gallery . . . . . 117 l‘lantin Museum . . . . . 1'33 l’orte dc l’tiscaut . . . . . 12+ Quay on the Schelde . . . . 125 llnheus, House of. . . . . 123 Rubens, Statue of . . . . . 12:1 Sucre Coeur, C11. 01' . . . . 117 St. Andrew, Ch. of . . . . 116 St. Anthony. Ch. of . . . 117 St. Charles Borroineo, C1 .of . . . 117 St. George. Ch. of . . . . . 117 St. Jacques, Ch. of . . . . 115 St. Paul. Ch. of . . . . 116 Schooten, Fort of . . . . 125 Siege of Antwerp . . . . . 1:6 Stcen Museum . . . . 1;”). Statue s . . . . . . 1‘13 Theatres . . . 12 1 Tower of the Cathedral . . . . 1 *4 Van Schoonbeke, hydraulic works of . 123 “'ell of Quentin Matsys . . . 114 “'uyts, Collection of Madame de . . 121 Zoological Gan'den . . . . . 1:4 IMPORTANT SIGHTS. m Cathedral ; Church of St. Jacques; Museum of Pictures, M. Plantin, and M. Steen; \- .y-t,«nf Bur. -~z‘-.~.4. ‘ w n de la Campine ' Q‘u8i70lxes'imt Bassiu; du Kattendyk ‘7‘“‘52 81‘ E§1_" \—. fij—léfiifiWfif-guflé ‘ t . /T.\\ 53:1deva 3 ‘ xglish V 1 ,;1‘roresmm / Sffiud I 'Q. /\: 1mm chusln‘s . H ‘ : Fishym‘krt . ‘ \i Rail way Station , . " Station princifulel! ‘ "1:. Reference “1 (admiral E SFJatquts 01. l). '1' , SFL'arlo‘Aksuizs Boursr l) )fiurum Academy Stem Huntin 116101 de Ville . 1.“ Place l'erte . _ i — Post Offin' »" I'healu~ Flwagais Flamuml Ru be": House Zoological Gard ‘ 5mm». du \ & pwmnwc‘cummwmmcgnmgnhgnm C u'Lhe 1 FORTIHCATIONS; , > 1—..A_._ _- ’7'?“ '\\ (),'_'f,,, 7 ,_ é‘ <>,\'\\"1:"[:d,1( “211%: EVER? m of‘a. ' 7“:17:':“t:<\ @ , Tlrnnwa 4c M, 4 \ deFluluiW‘ ‘1. “H , , .‘ , ,,, V __1 1.1% , ,_,, WW” L ,, , ,Wflv‘p 9n‘>_x\ . w w hv‘vfipagpwwam- Q‘er @F‘U'Pi.;':_ C 91’ l \ Stldvenbmg ?" :\ Stnmmdu Sud . . 1 Hotel dc ['Eunxpe E. 6, S‘Jntoinc II. (‘x Gmflubaurcurn 64‘ L114 Rhin F ' d: 1.18111? EAL dab‘I’ImuINsE. 6‘ \i' ' ‘ ‘: ’, >\\ , . .':§:’~\ I \ 3 <1 5 . London ./¢ #171 M14177;M.41b(rflarlr‘ Shiv-1’ _~ Belgium. Hotel de Ville; Exchange; Zoologi- cal Garden; Docks, Basins, and Prome- nade on the Quay of the Schelde. Antwerp (200,000, not including its populous suburbs) is one of the ‘ strongest fortresses and greatest sea- ports in the world. It lies 60 m. from the sea, on the rt. bank of the Schelde, which is here navigable for vessels of large burden; the tide rises 22 to 29 ft., and the water is brackish. The most probable and simple derivation of the name is from the Flemish aen’t werpen, on the cast (of the anchor). In the 16th cent., when at the height of its splendour and prosperity, its merchants were princes in wealth, and their houses splendid palaces. EVen now, no city of Belgium presents grander streets and squares, while the ,older portion near the Schelde con- sists of an intricate labyrinth of narrow lanes, inhabited by the lower orders. Since 1880 the trees on the river side have been cut down, and 600 houses removed. A huge stone quay-wall nearly 2 In. long has been built upon this site, deeper below ground than above. Towards the middle of it are vast sheds for the reception of goods lauded from steamers, and in trout of them a *broad raised Promenade afi'ords a line view of the river and its opposite bank. These improvements, rendered absolutely necessary by the expansion of commerce, have to a great extent destroyed the charac- teristic features of a city once unique in Europe for mediwval interest; but in by-streets and corners numerous picturesque relics of the past may yet 0 found; while the newly-erected mansions, streets, and public buildings are in themselves sufficiently tasteful and artistic to serve as an ornament to the town. Since 1862 a special transformation has occurred in consequence of the re- moval of the old ramparts, now re- placed by handsome boulevards, be- yond which the town perpetually spreads and grows; while the con- struction of Fortifications on a wider circle, including a new Citadel and about a dozen detached Forts, perhaps \ A‘ Route '3l.—Antwerp: Churches. 111, the most scientific in Europe, has con- verted Antwerp into an entrenched camp. Antwerp, though styled by courtesy a city, is not a bishop’s see, having been included, since 1802, in the diocese of Mechlin. It is the chief military defence of Belgium, and is strengthened by all the inventions of modern engineering. The old fortifi‘ cations, now transformed into boule~ vards, moulded the city into the shape ‘ of a half-circle or bow, the chord being formed by the Schelde. Through the - centre of this, at right angles with the river, runs a great avenue, reach- ing to the Rly. Stat, under the names of the Marché, the Place Verte, Where is the Cathedral, and statue of Rubens by Geefs (1840), and the Place de Meir, a long and wide street formed by bridging over an old canal. Antwerp enjoys a high reputation from its encouragement of the arts. and the eminent artists it has produced. At the head of this list stand Rubens and Vandyck, followed by Teniers, Jordaens, Quentin Matsys, &c. The power and genius of Rubens especially, whose masterpieces still exist here, are nowhere else to be equally understood and appreciated. The Academy or Guild of St. Luke, in this city, for the encouragement of painting, was one of the oldest societies of the kind in Europe; it was founded in 1454 by Duke Philip the Good, and endowed by Philip IV. of Spain, and may be regarded as the cradle of the Flemish school. This has made a fresh start in the 19th cent. in producing such painters as Leys, Brackclecr, Ve'rlat, and others. The Churches are open for purposes of devotion from early morning until 12, and sometimes for an hour or so in the afternoon ; but the side chapels are mostly locked, and the best pictures covered, except between 12 and 4, when the sacred building is turned practically into a Museum-— Admission, 1 fr. each person. The *Church of Notre Dame, misnamed Cathedral, is one of the \ ”_____., 112' , largest and most beautit'iil specimens ' of Gothic architecture in the Nether- lands. It was erected between 1352 and 1500, and exhibits the usual gra- dations of middle and late pointed architecture. The interior, simple and imposing, is 390 ft. long, and the effect of the vastness of its lofty choir, and of its nave, with treble aisles on each side, is assisted by its being all finished on the same uniform plan, and left open. The choir is of 3 colossal bays, and the nave of 6. The Oh, with countless others in Belgium, was sacked by a wild Calvinist rabble in 1566, when its rich altars, ornaments, and sculptures, were mutilated or plundered. The great attraction in this church is the masterpiece. of Rubens—*the Descent from the Cross. It hangs in the S. transept, and is always curtained, except on Sunday. On one of the lateral pieces or folding doors is re- ‘ presented the Salutation of the Virgin; on the other the Presentation of the Child Jesus in the Temple; and on the back of them are figures of a hermit and of St. Christopher carry- ing the Infant Saviour. “The greatest peculiarity of this composition is the contrivance of the white sheet on which the body of Jesus lies: none but great colourists can venture to paint pure white linen near flesh; but such know the ad- vantage ot‘ its? 1 consider Rubens‘s Christ as one of the finest figures that ever was invented ; it is most correctly drawn, and, I apprehend, in an atti- tude of the utmost difficulty to exe- cute. The hanging of the head on his shoulder, and the falling of the ' body on one side, give it such an appearance of the heaviness of death, that nothing can exceed it. “ The St. Joseph of Arimathea is the same countenance which he so often introduced in his works—a smooth, fat face,—a very unhistorical char— + Rubens possibly obtained the idea of this picture from a celebrated one of the same, subject, in the church of the 'l‘rinita de’ Monti at Rome, by Daniele da Vollerra, who was assisted in it by Michael Angelo: there is some similarity in the two works. Route 31:;Anttoerjo : Cathedral. '_ H‘S‘ect. TI. acter. The principal light is formed by the body of ChriSt and thewhite sheet ; there is no second ligthhich bears any proportion to the principal. In this respect it has more the manner of Rembrandt’s disposition of light than any other of ltubens’s works; however, there are many detached lights distributed at some distance from the great mass, such as the head and shoulders of the Magdalen, the heads of the two Maries, the head of St. Joseph, and the back and arm of the figure leaning over the cross; the whdle surrounded with a dark sky,except a little light in the horizon and above the cross. “The historical anecdote relating to this picture says that it was given in exchange for a piece of ground (belonging to the guild of Arque- busicrs) on which Rubens built his house; and that the agreement was only for a picture representing their patron, St. Christopher, with the infant Christ on his shoulders. Ru- bens, who wished to surprise them by his generosity, sent 5 pictures instead of one, all intended as a kind of artistic play upon the name of Christopher. In the first place, the body of Christ on the altar is borne by St. J ohn, St. Joseph of Arimathea, Mary Magdalen, &c.”—R. St. Chris- topher, on the doors, is represented as guided by the light of a hermit’s lantern. The colouring is red ant bricky and the outline not flowing “ On the reverse of this door we have another Christopher, the priest Simeor bearing Christ high in his arms, ant looking upwards. This picture, whicl has not suffered, is admirable indeed the head of the priest more especially which nothing can exceed; the ex pression, drawing, and colouring ar beyond all description, and as fresh :3 if the piece were just painted.”——L’. Sir Joshua has omitted to mentio the well-known story of the slim which Vandyck is said to have had i the painting. While the work w: in progress, and during the absem of Rubens, the picture was throw down by accident or carelessness l his pupils, and received serious injui ' t Belgium? , , .. in‘the fall. Vandyck was selected as ,the most skilful hand among them to » repair'the damage, and succeeded so Well, that Rubens, on his return, de- ' clared that he preferred his scholar’s work to his own. The parts restored by him were the cheek and chin of ’the Virgin, and the arm of the _ Magdalen. The picture was origin- ally painted in 1610, and has in recent times been judiciously restored and cleaned. in the opposite or N. transept is *the Elevation of the Cross. “the first public work which Rubens executed after he returned from Italy. In the centre is Christ nailed to the cross, with a number of figures exert- ing themselves in diiierent ways to raise it. One of the figures appears ' flushed, all the blood rising into his face from his violent efforts; others in intricate attitudes, which give that opportunity which painters desire, of foreshortening and representing mo- mentary actions. “ The bustle which is in every part of the picture makes a fine contrast to the character of resignation in the 'oruciiied Saviour. The sway of the body of Christ is extremely well imagined. The taste of the form in the Christ, as well as in the other figures, must be acknowledged to be a little inelinablc to the heavy, but it has a noble, free and flowing outline. The invention of throwing the cross obliquely from one corner of the picture to the other is finely con- ceived. ' “ The doors are a continuation of the subject. That on the left has a group of women and children, who appear to furl the greatest emotion and horror at the sight: the Virgin and St. John, who are behind, appear very properly with more resignation. 0n the other door are the oflicers on horseback attending; behind them are the two thieves, whom the execu- tioners are nailing to the cross. “ It is diflicult to imagine a subject better adapted for a painter to exhibit his art of composition than the present; at least Rubens has had the skill to make it serve, in an eminent (Belgium, 1888.] its. 3/1.-—Antwerp .- " Cathedral. 113 degree, for that purpose”. In the naked figures of the Christ and of the . executioners he had ample room to, show his knowledge of the anatomy of the human body in different characters. There are likewise women of different ages, besides children and . horsemen; and, to have the whole range of variety. he added (in 1627) a dog, which he has introduced in an animated attitude, with his moutl1~ open, as if panting; admirably well painted. His animals are always to be admired; the horses here are perfect in their kind, of a noble char- acter, animated to the highest degree, and excellently coloured. “ The blue drapery about the middle of the figure at the bottom of the \ cross, and the grey colour of some armour, are nearly all the cold colours in the picture, which are certainly not enough to qualify so large a space ’ of warm colours. The principal mass of light is on the Christ’s body; but, in order to enlarge it and improve its shape, a strong light comes on the shoulder of the figure with a bald head: the form of this shoulder is somewhat defective; it appears too round."—-—R. Over the high altar hangs a third of Rubens’s most famous pictures, *The Assumption of the Virgin. “ She is surrounded by a choir of angels; below are the apostles and a great number of figures. This picture has not so rich an appearance in regard to colour as many other pictures of Rubens; proceeding, I imagine, from there being too much blue in the sky: however, the lower part of the picture has not that detect. It is said to have been painted in 16 days.”——- R. Rubens’s usual terms were 100 florins a-day. The *Resurreetion, by Rubens (in the 2nd chapel S. of the choir), was painted to adorn the tomb of his friend Moretus the printer, it is said, when Rubens was only 20 years old. “An admirable picture, about half the size of life; Christ coming out of the sepulchre in great splen- dour, the soldiers terrified, and I r.—_—’ 114: tumbling one' over the other; the Christ is finely drawn, and of a rich colour. The St. John the Baptist on the door is likewise in his best manner, only his left leg is some-‘ thing too lar e.”—R. On the other door is St. 1V artina; and, above the painting, the portrait of Moretus. The most important of the remain- ing works of art will be found in the chapels behind the choir. ~lth.—-I)c Bakkcr, Last Judgment, with por- traits; below it, the tomb of the printer Plantin (see p. 123). 5th.--Coni‘essional by Verbruggcn, one of several good specimens of wood-carving. At the back of the high altar is a clever imi- tation of has-reliefs by Van Bre‘c. re- presenting the Marriage of the Virgin, with the Annunciation and Visitation at the sides. Recumbent bronze elligy of Isabella (1456), queen of Charles the Bold. Stir—Cologne School (llth cent), St. Michael, with saints and angels. 9th.-— (rt.) Crucifixion by Arnold ’Mytens, with Journey and Adoration of the Magi; 1. Marriage of the Virgin, school of Roger ran dcr lVeyden. Nth—Large Crueitix in Parian marble; against a pier, Virgin and Child, good replica of l'andyclr. [Fine stained glass of 1503. : In the chapel of St. Antonio, open- ing out of the N. transcpt, is a paint- ing by the younger Franck, of our Saviour disputing with the Doctors, among whom the painter has intro- duced portraits of Luther, Calvin, Erasmus, and other reformers. “ There are some tine heads in this picture, particularly the three men that are. looking on one book are admirable characters; the figures are well drawn and well grouped ; the Christ is but a poor figure.”——1i’. The *Stalls and Bishop’s Throne in the choir, designed by Professor Geerts, of Louvain, and executed by Durlet, are of exquisite Gothic taber- nacle work, foliage, &c., interspersed with figures of saints, apostles. and scriptural groups. The figures oc- casionally betray rather a pedantic afl‘ectation of an archaic style, in long, lean forms, and stifi‘, angular drapery. Route 31.7-Antwerp : Cathedral. Sect. II. The Pulp/it, carved in wood by Yer-o bruggen, is a singular and tasteless piece of workmanship, representing Europe, Asia, Africa, and America; while the upper part consists of twin-, ing shrubs, and interlaced branches of trees, with various birds—mostly of species unknown in nature—perched upon them. On a pier of the large Lady chapel in the N. aisle is a Flemish head of Christ on white marble, erroneously ascribed to Leonardo da Vinci. The Chapelle des Mariages (closed) under the S.W. tower has some good stained glass of 1635. Against the Wall of the S. aisle are the l-l Stations of the Cross, well executed by pupils of Baron Leys; and in the chapel of the Sacra— ment, opposite the Lady chapel, is a modern Christ at Emmaus, over the altar. The music at high mass on Sunday (10 AJAX.) is often excellent; and at this time the two great- Rubens pictures rcmain uncurtained. : The tower (102 ft.) has been absurd- ly overrated for its architectural beauty, but commands an extensive and interesting *view. Fee for one person, 75 c.; two, 1 fr.; three, 1 fr. 25 c. 622 steps lead to the summit, but a sulliciently wide prospect may be enjoyed from the first gallery (5H steps). The chimes, which at certain seasons are. almost incessant consist of 99 bells, the largest of whicli weighs nearly 8 tons, and is called Carolus, because Charles V. stoor sponsor at its baptism. The towel was begun in M22, and finished i1 1518. Near the foot of the tower is t Draw-well (1490, restored in 1847) covered with an elegant Gothic canopj of iron, the work of Quentin. Mats”: the blacksmith of Antwerp, who, hav ing fallen in love with the daughter 0 a painter, changed his profession t obtain her father’s consent to thei marriage, and succeeded even bette with the palette and pencil than 11 had at the forge and hammer, as hi great work in the Museum here wi? testify. The figure surmounting th canopy, with a glove in his hané w; Belg 1' represents the mythical knight Brabo, * who defeated and cut ofl‘ the hand of . the giant Antigonus (see Fountain in the Grande Place). At the side of the W. door of the Cathedral is- a tablet to his memory, with this Latin verse— Connubialis Amor de Mulcebre fecit Apellem. “"l‘was love connubial taught the smith to _ paint." *St. Jacques (entrance in the Longue Ruc'Neuve, D. 6) is even more splendid than the cathedral in its internal decorations of marbles, painted glass, carved wood, and fine monu- ments. It was built at the end of the 15th cent. in the Gothic style; the interior is lot'tier than that of the Cathedral. The principal families of the town had their burial vaults, . private chapels, and altars in this church. The most remarkable is that of the Rubens family, situated behind the high altar. The Tomb of the great painter is cov'ered by a slab of white marble, bearing a long inst-rip- tiou, let into the pavement. In 1793, when eVery other tomb in the church was broken open and pillaged by the revolutionary French, this alone was spared. The *altarpieee in this chapel was painted for himself by ltubens, and is considered one of his most pleas- ing works. It is a Holy Funu'ly, in which he has introduced his own portrait as St. George, those of his two wives as Martha and Mary Magdalen, his father as St. Jerome, and his son as Christ; one of the female heads is said to be that of Madlle. Lunden, whose portrait may be seen in the National Gallery in the picture called the Chapeau de I’aille. Sir Joshua says of it, “ For effect of colour this yields to none of ltubens’s works, and the characters have more beauty than 18 common with hint.” The white marble statue of the Virgin, above the picture, of beautiful workmanship. executed by Du, Quesnoy, was brought from Italy by Rubens himself. To the l. in this chapel is a very touch- ing recumbent etligy in marble of a young'mother, by Guy's. Beginning at the W. end of the S. iurn. \ ‘ Route‘31.—'Ohurches: St. Jacques. l t 7115 'aisle, the 1st chapel has a. small wooden St. Sebastian by Quellin, and St. George by Vandyck. 2nd. M. de V08, , Temptation of St. Anthony; Guido Rani, small oval head of Madonna. 3rd. School of Granada, small Virgin and Child. 4 quaint scenes from the life of St. Roch, continued in the two following chapels. 5th. Floris, genealogy of the Virgin ; good monu- ment with portraits by 11'1'anlcen. 6th. M. de Vos, Martyrdom of St. James. TRANSEPT. Marble statues of Apostles and 4 Latin doctors; on the right Boeyermans, Assumption. The. Chapel of the Host, between the choir and S. (or entrance) doorway, has elaborate but not very tasteful altar rails in white marble, and line stained glass of 1626 representing Rudolph of liapsburg giving up his horse to a priest who bore the sacrament to a sick person (well painted by Rubens at Madrid). Altarpieee, Otto Vem’us, Last Supper; E. ran Dank, St. Peter; Jan Massys, *Virgin and Child. BEHIND THIS Cnom. Cont’essionals by Quellin and others. HI. de V08, Eece Home. Nearly opposite, on the 1., Cornelius Schut, Pieta. 2nd chapel, Seghers, St. Ivo. Further on, winged picture by Jams-ens, of which the Nativity and Adoration are far better than the central Coronation. Beyond the Rubens chapel, Bombouts, St. Catharine, with Francis and Bernar- dino on wings. 7th chapel, .Moons (1843), Supper at Emmaus; opposite, Tltys, Saerttiee of Isaac. N. TRANSEPT. Honthorsf, Christ :unongst the Dee-tors, a large picture over the door. The chapel of the Virgin has good glass of 1041. N. Atsmc, 5th chapel front the W. end: Marl/n dc Vos, winged picture with St. Hubert and the Calling of St. Matthew on wings; Peter van den Aront, Virgin and Child with angels, in a garden ; glass of 1538, represent‘ ing the Last Supper. ~lth. J)‘. run Urleg, *Last Judg= 1 2 116' ment, with SS. ‘George and Catharine attended by donors and children on the Wings. ‘ ' 3rd. Van Balen, Adoration of the Magi, with Annunciation and Visita- tion on the wings; Ryckaert, por- traits, above tomb. . The choir—stalls were carved by ,Quellz’n, and the pulpit by Willemssens (1675). St. Paul, formerly 8. Dominican Church (entrance in the Rue des Soeurs Noires, E. 4). On the rt. of the . passage leading to the ch. is a Calvary -an artificial eminence covered with slag or rockwork, and planted with statues of saints, angels, prophets,and patriarchs. On the summit is the Crucifixion, and below it is a grotto, imitating the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Inside lies the body of Christ, while to the face of the rock are attached boards carved and painted to represent the flames of Purgatory, in the midst of which appear the agonised faces of the condemned. Adm. free, during divine service. In the S. aisle is a singular painting by Tem'ers the father. representing the Seven Works of Mercy; and in the N. transept a harrowing picture, the seourging of Christ, by Rubens. Though admirably painted, it. “ is disagreeable to look at; the black and bloody stripes are marked with too much fidelity; and some of the figures are awkwardly scourging with their left hand.”—R. In the N. aisle 9. Crucifixion, by Jordaens, “much in the manner of Rubens.”——Ohrist bearing the Cross, an early picture by Van Dyclc. “ It .is in many parts like the works of Rubens, particularly the figure with . his back towards the spectator, which is well drawn.”—-11‘. The Renais- sance woodwork in this church is remarkably rich. There are 8 or 10 finely ornamented confessionals. St. Andrew‘s Ch. (F. 6) contains a fine altar sculptured by Verbruggen, and one of the hugest of the carved *pulpits so common in the Nether- . ' .Rome 311%Antwerp Charches. Sect. II. lands; it represents Andrew and Peter called from their boats and nets by our Saviour, and was executed by Van Heal, the figures by Van Gheel, It is a work of high merit; the figure of the Saviour displays a dignity not to be expected in this department of art. In the chancel is a picture of the Crucifixion of St. Andrew, by Otto Venz’us, Rubens’s master; and against a pillar facing the S. transept is a medallion portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, by Pourbus, attached to a menu- ment of two English ladies, Barbara Mowbray and Eliz.Cur1e, her ladies in waiting. One of them received her last embrace previous to her execu- tion. The Ch. of the Augustinians (E. 6) contains an altar-piece by *Bubens, the marriage of St. Catherine, with the Virgin and many saints. “ From the size of the picture, the great number of figures, and the skill with which the whole is conducted, it must be con- sidered as one of the most considerable works of Rubens.” “ The Virgin and Infant Christ are repreSented at on( distance, seated on high on a sort 0 pedestal, which has steps ascending t( it: behind the Virgin is St. Joseph on the right is St. Catherine. receiving the ring from Christ. St. Peter am St. Paul are in the background; an( to the left, on the steps, St. John th< Baptist, with the Lamb and Angels Below are St. Sebastian, St. Augustin St. Lawrence, Paul the Hermit, am St. George in armour (Rubens him self). The head of St. Catherine i one of the most beautiful Rubens eve painted.” In the nave is the Ecstasy of St Augustin, by Van Dyek; it is, how ever, by no means a faultless composi tion. “ The head of an elderly woman said to be the saint’s mother, is finel, drawn, and is the best part of the pic ture; and the angel sitting on a 0101b is the best of that group. The be with the sceptre is hard. and has n union with the blue sky. This pic ture has no effect, from the want ( a large mass of 1ight.”—1£. Also in the nave is The Martyrdor fielgium. ‘ " ‘ »Route 31.—'-‘Ohurches ; Museum. 15’“ ~ . . - taut St. Apollonia.«by Jordaens. « The "' Eréy horse forcshortcned, biting his, 'nee, is admirable.” The Church of St. Anthony of ‘7 Patina, or of the Capuchins (C. 4), is ' only remarkable for two paintings—a Dead Christ. by Van Dyck, and a 'Virgin and Child appearing to St. , Anthony, by Rubens. The Ch. of the Jesuits, or of St. Charles Borromeo (E. 5), was deco- rated with many fine pictures by Rubens, but was destroyed by lightning, with its contents, in 1718. The Chapel of the Virgin on the S. .side, lined with marble, is said to have been designed by Rubens. The most striking feature of the ex- isting ch. is the wooden wainscoting, ‘ with carved medallions from the life of St. Ignatius and St. Francis Xavier (1735). The modern Ch. of St. George (1853) contains frescoes by Gufl'cns and Sweerts, native artists (plan E. 7). ' At the end of the Chaussée de Malines (D. S), in the suburb of Berehem, are the Gardens of the . Société Royals d’Harmonie, to which ' visitors are eourteously admitted; and ‘ immediately beyond them, on the rt., the triangular plantation called the . 'Pépiniére. Skirting this towards the 3., we soon reach the Avenue de Me'rode, which leads 1. to the new ch. of the Sacté Coeur. a tasteful building witlh some stained glass and frescoed wu ls. The *MUSEUM or ACADEMY OF PAINTING occupies the building of the suppressed convent of Récollets. In the Place is a fine marble statue of Vail Dyclr, by CHI/1W7. Admission, 1 fix; Sun. and 'l‘hurs. free. Open from 9 to 5 in summer, 10 to 4 in winter. Entrance. Rue des Fagots. The same ticket admits to the Modern Picture Gallery, which has, however,a separate entrance (see below). Cata- logue of 1874, 4 frs.; abridgment of 1884 in French or English, 1‘ tr. This museum contains a great many 117 ' pictures brought from suppressed con- »vents and churches in the town, where they were seen and described by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The 14 works by Rubens and G by Van Dyck give the highest celebrity to this collection. The walls of the entrance hell are decorated with frescoes by N. de Keyser (President of the Academy). The subjects relate to the Antwerp school of art. At the entrance to the 2nd saloon is preserved, under a glass case, the chair of Rubens, President of the Academy of St. Luke—an interesting relic of 1635. The following selected list of paint- ings is arranged in alphabetical order :— Adriaenssen: Still life. Angelica (Fra): St. Romuald re- proaching the Emperor Otho III. Antonello da Messina: *Calvary, with beautiful landscape and sea view. —*P0rtrait. Backhuyzen: Dutch man-of-war. Berchem: Returning from pasture. Figures in a landscape—*Rich brown . landscape with figures, in a fine light. Beschey: Joseph sold to the mer- chants. ' ‘ Boeyermans: The Ambassador. Both: *Woodland scene, with dis- tant hills and water. Bouts (Thierry): Virgin and Child. —-St. Christopher. Brakenburg: Village Feast. Breemberg: Death of Abel. Brouwer: Card Playing. Brueghel (d'l'lnfer) : Flemish Fete. -—Visit to the Farm. Cranach: Charity. Cuyp (Albert) : The two cavaliers. De Bles (Civctta): Repose on the Flight. Decker: *Landseape. De Heem: Flowers and bisects.— Still Life. De Vos (Cornelius): *Portrait of Abraham Grapheus, messenger of the Confratcrnity of St. Luke, covered with medals and other decorations pre- sented to that institution by princes and potentates. all of which have long since disappeared. It is painted 118 with wonderful force and truth.— The Family Snoek restoring to St. Norbert and another Saint the sacra- mental vessels belonging to the Church ‘of St. Michael. The portraits are ex- tremely well painted. “ De Vos was particularly excellent in portraits.”— R.—Adoration of the Magi. De 'Vos (Martin): Incredulity of St. Thomas; Tribute Money; Render unto Caesar: Widow’s Mite; St. Luke painting the Virgin; all forming parts of various triptychs. Dietrich: Male portrait. Du J ardin : >'Italian landscape, with figures. Dunwege: *Genealogy of St. Anne. Dusart: Interior. Engelbrechtsen: St. Leonard re- leasing prisoners—St. Hubert. Flemish School: St. Eloy preaching (a triptych). Franck : Family portraits. Francken (A): Miracle of the loaves and fishes. Francken (P. H.): St. Louis.~St. Anthony of Padua. Frans Floris (dc Vriendt) : ‘t. Luke at his Easel—«The Descent of the Fallen Angels, painted in 155-1. has some good parts, but is unattractive and dry. On the thigh of one of the figures he. has painted an insect unknown to Entomology, something between a fly and a stag-beetle. for the admiration of the vulgar—The Nativity, "a large composition, and perhaps the best of his works. It is well compOSed, drawn, and coloured. The heads are in general tinel y painted. more especially St. Jos~ph and a woman in the foreground.” Giottesque: St. Paul.—~St. Nicholas of Myra. Gossaert: The Maries and John re- turning from the Semxlcln-e.~—'l‘he Just Judges—*Ecce Homo—Virgin and Child. Gysels: Still life. Hols: Sketch of a Haarlem Fisher- boy.———Portrait of a Burgomaster in green coat. Hobbema: *Water Mill. Kolbein: *Portrait of Erasmus. Hondekoeter: Animals. J anssens: Virgin and Children. Route 31.——Antwerp\: Musemiz.- , v x l Sect. II. Jordaens: Last Supper.—Adoratinu of the Shepherds—Portrait of a lady. ——Family group; children playing pipes. Justus van Gent: Benediction. Koning: Boy's portrait. Lucas van Leyden: The Wedding ring.——David playing before Saul.— Adoration of the Magi, with St. George and donors on the wings. Massys (John) : Hospitality refused to the Virgin and Joseph. Massys (Quentin): Head of Christ.— Head ofthe Yirgin.—*)[ary Magdalen. *Entombmcnt, with John the Bap- tist and John the Evangelist on the wings. This painting, formerly in the cathedral. Was finished in 1508, and is considered the masterpiece of the artist. It displays the science and talent which are evinced in the famous Misers at \\'indsor. and, in spite of the stiffness of the figures, is worthy of minute attention. “The middle part is what the Italians call a Pieta, a dead Christ on the knees of the Virgin, accompanied by the usual figures. On the door on one side is the daughter of I-Ierodias bringing in St. John’s head at the banquet; on the other St. John the Evangelist in the Cauldron of boiling oil. In the Pieta the Christ appears as if starved to death. The head of Herod. and that of St. Joseph of Arimathea who stands near Christ, are excellent. The pain- ter’s own portrait is here introduced. In the banquet the daughter is rather beautiful, but too skinny and lean. She is presenting the head to her mother, who appears to be cutting it with a knife.” Below this picture is the painter’s tombstone. School of Quentin Massys: Girl teasing an old man. Memling: *Portrait of a Premons- tratesian Carma—Portrait of one of the Grey fainily.——Small diptych, *Virgin and Child, with portraits on the wings: “copy of a large picture by Jan van Eyck, now at Berlin, painted by some. follower of Memling, for the (‘istercian Abbey of Dunes near Furncs, in 1499.”—C. Molenaer: Village amusements. Nativity, and .1" Belgium. Mostaert (John) : Virgin and Child.. - with angels and donors—Portrait of man and woman. Peeters : View of Middelburg, across a rough sea. Pepyn: Passage of the Red Sea. Pourbus: Oval portrait of Prince Alex. Farnese. Rembrandt: Profile of a lady in red hat—Young Fisherman.——-*Portrait of a Protestant Minister (bought in 1887 for 80001.). Rombouts: Christ as a pilgrim, ap- pearing to St. Augustin, who washes His feet. Bubena: *Christ between the two robbers. “ Rubens has chosen the point of time when an executioner is pierc- ing the side of Christ, while another with a bar of iron has just broken the limbs of one of the malefaetors, who, in the convulsive agony which his body admirably expresses, has torn one of his feet from the tree to which it was nailed. The expression in the action of this figure is wonderful. The atti- tude of the other is more composed, and he looks at the dying Christ with a countenance perfectly expressive of his penitence. The Virgin, St. J ohn,and Mary the wife of Cleophas, are stand- ing by with great expression of grief and resignation, whilst the Magdalen, who is at the feet of Christ, and may be supposed to have been kissing his feet, looks at the horseman with the spear with a countenance of great hor- ror; as the expression carries with it no grimaee or contortion of the features, the beauty is not destroyed. The good Centurion is leaning forward, resting on the mane of his horse, while he looks up to Christ with great earnest— ness. The genius of Rubens no- where appears to more advantage than here—it is the most carefully finished of all his Works. The whole is conducted with the most consummate art."-': St.’l‘bere>a interecding for the Souls in Purgatory. “ The Christ} is a better character, has more beauty and grace, than is Usual with Rubens: the outline remarkably undulating, smooth, and flowing. The head of one liLL \i‘ lllLli in [I‘ll ;.llal". is beautiful, ' . I Route 31.—-‘Antirerp (Museum. in Rubens’s way: the whole has great harmony of colouring and freedom of pencil. It is in his best manner." The Trinity: Christ lying dead in the arms of God the Father. “An unimpressive and irreverent represen- tation of the Deity, under the figure of an old man. The Christ is *fores shortened with great skill in draw- ing.” The Communion of St. Francis; He is accompanied by many of his order, and “ appears more like a Lazar- than a Saint. it was the design, how- ever, of the painter to exhibit the Saint in the act of receiving the via- ticum immediately before his death, his body emaciated by disease and ab- stinenee, so that, however disagree- able, the picture has at least truth.” Triptych, Christ it la, Paille—the dead body of Christ laid against a stone table, covered with straw, mourned over by the Virgin. “ This is one of his most careful pictures. The cha- racters are of a higher style of beauty than usual, particularly the ,Mary ‘ Magdalene, weeping, with her hands clenched. The colouring of the Christ and the Virgin is of a most beautiful and delicately pearly tint, opposed by the strong high colouring _of St. Joseph. On the wings, Virgin and *Child, with St. John the EVnngelist. Education of the Virgin. “This picture is eminently Well coloured, especially the angels: the union of their colour with the sky is wonder- fully managed. It is remarkable that one of the angels has Psyche’s wings, which are like those of a butterfly. This picture is improperly called St. Anne teaching the Virgin to read, who is represented as too old to begin to learn to read. (It is more pro- bably a ‘ Salutation.) The white silk drapery ot' the Virgin is well painted, but not historical." Portrait of Nicolas Roekox, Burgo- master of Antwerp, and his wife, half- lengths. His is a tine portrait; the ear is remarkably Well painted, and the anatomy of the forehead is well understood. *Virgin and Child with a parrot. “ One of Rubens’s best pictures of the ‘120. subject, admirable in composition, and» well coloured. It was painted in 1631 for the Corporation of St. Luke, g and hung up in their Hall of Meeting. Crucifixion. Po1t1ait of Gevaerts. Baptism of Christ. It came from Mantua. and shows the influence of the Italian school. The Adelation of the Magi, “a large and magnificent composition of 11ea11y 20 figures in Rubens’s best manner. Such subjects seem to be more peculiarly adapted to Rubens's style and manner; his excellence, his superiority, is not seen in small com- positions. One of the kings, who holds \a cup in his hand, is loaded with drapery. His head appears too large, and upon the whole he makes but an ungraceful figure. The head of the ox is remarkably well painted."—R. A small sketch or copy of the De— scent i'roni the Cross, in the cathedral ——good; the valiations prove it to be by Rubens himself Ruysdael (J. ); *Landscapc.—Cata- met in Norway. Ruysdael (8.) : *Cahn water, silvery in tone. Ryckaert : Village Feast. Schalken: *The two Ages. Schut: Bcbeading of St. George. Seghers: Garlands of flowers, sur- rounding heads of St. Ignatius, the 1. Virgin, and St. Theresa. “ It is Well composed and well drawn; but the saint has too much of that character .which painters have fixed for Christ. .. There is a want of brilliancy, from its having too much harmony : to produce ‘force and strength a stronger opposi- tion of colours is rcquired.”—R. Steen: Samson among the Philis- tines. Village Wedding. Susterman: Portrait of a Youth. Teniers: *Inn with landscape, and peasants diinking. ——l\Iorning and afternoon ——Old woman. —-Small land- scape, with castle. —Singc1 ..——-Duet Terburg : *Mandoline player. Titian. Pope Alexander VI. intro- ducing to St. Peter the admiral of his fleet against the Turks (a Bishop of Paphos); an i11te1esting pictuie, in the early style of the mastei. It once Route 31 .—A'ntwetp: Museum. sect. II. belonged to the collection of King Charles 1. Valentin: Card-players. Van Aelst: Fruit. Van Antonissen: Calm grey sea. Van Bergen: Cattle in a landscape. Van Coxcyen: St. Sebastian; and ‘ two scenes from the martyrdom of St. George. Van Craesbeeck: Interior.*Brawl in a Tavern. Van der Helst: Young girl with dog. Van der Neer: Windmill and still W ater bv moonlight. Van der Weyden: *Triptych, repre- sentingthe Seven Sacraments, painted between 1437 and 1460, for Jean Chevrot, bp. of Tournai. The colours of the angels are symbolical; white for baptism, blue for marriage, purple for ordination. The Annunciation, a 1niniature.——*l’0rtrait of Philip of Burgundy. Van de Velde (A.:) *Skating and Sledging. Van de Velde (W.:) Ships in a calm. Van Dyck: Crucifixion, with St. Catherine of Siena and St. Dominic. “ The shadows are too red, and the locks of the hair are all painted in a hard and heavy manner. For its de- fects ample amends are made in the Christ, which is admirably drawn and coloured, and a breadth of light pre- served over the body with the greatest skill, at the same time that all the parts are distinctly marked. The idea of St. Catherine closing her eyes is finely imagined, and gives an un- eommon and delicate expression to the figure. To preserve the principal mass of light, which is made by the body of Christ, of a beautiful shape, the head is kept in half shadow.” Portrait of a Bp. of Antwerp. Descent from the Cross. The dead Christ, supported against a rock, at the feet of the Virgin in an attitude of the deepest agony ; Mary Magdalen kneeling, kissing the Saviour’s hand ; St. John in the background. “This has been one of the most chaste pic- tures, but the colouring is gone. The expression of the Virgin is admirable; Landscape, 'i Belgium. 'it conveys an idea. that she is peti- , -tioning with an earnest agony of grief. , The Virgin’s drapery and the sky being exactly of the same colour has a bad efi'ect: the linen is remarkably well folded.”—R. - Same subject differently treated. The Virgin behind; 2 Angels, and St. John. “ The Virgin’s head is admirable for drawing and expression. The figure of Christ is likewise finely drawn, but the colouring is a little too cold.”—B. Portrait of Caesar Alex. Seaglia. Van Essen: Table with dessert. Van Eyck: *St. Barbara (1437), un- finished. “ In the background a multi- tude of workmen are building such a tower as Jan thought would be suitable for so fine a princess. It is the truest representation of building operations in the 15th and preceding centuries.” —C.1' The Virgin, in miniature.— The Virgin with SS. Donatus and George. Van Goyen: Landscape and Cot- tage. Van Hugtenburg: The Horrors of ‘Var. Van Huysum: Flowers. Van Kessel: Landscape. Van Lint: St. Christopher. Van Mieris (W.): Fishmongcr.—— Venus and Cupid. Van Mol: Adoration of the Magi. Van Orley: Male and female por- trait. Van Orley and Patinir : Virgin and Child—Adoration of the Magi. Van Ostade (A.): *The Smoker. Van Ostade (Isaac): *Cottagc and Skating Scene. Van Poelenburg: Landscape and figures. Van Veen (Otto Venius): Zac- ehaeus in the fig-tree.—Calling of St. Matthew.—St. Nicolas succouring his people—Portrait of a Bp. of Antwerp. Verhaegen: Hagar and Ishmael, the latter just 10 years too young. Weenix: Still life (beautiful king- fisher). Wouwerman: *Cavaliers halting; one of the very few of his paintings -[~ :lEarly Flemish Artists,’ by W. M. Conway, 0 11y _ 'Route 31.-—Anta;erp : .Mu/seum‘. \ Similar subject.——Coursing-party. Wynauts and Van de Vélde: Land- scape with figures (almost a minia- ' ture). *Landscape with Cattle. Among the sculptures in the centre of various rooms may be noticed a bust of Rubens, by le'llemssens, a bronze Cupid by Dumont, and a group in marble from Goethe—the Fisher, by Geefs. The entrance to the Modern Museum is at No. 32, Rue de Vénus. (Quit the building by the ticket-office, and turn always to the left.) The best ex- , amplcs are :— Koekkoek, Landscape ' near Cleves; Leys, Rubens going to a feast; Lies, Prisoners of War, and A. Diirer descending the Ommeganck, Sheep; Dc Braekeleer, Young Artist, and Farrier; Bource, Fisherman’s return; Buyten, Great Square in Antwerp; Mols, River at Antwerp; Willems, Fishmonger; Van Kuyck, Stable; Verboeckhoven, Sheep and fowls. Among the more recent works of Antwerp Aeademicians (dis- tinguished by numbers on blue ground) are some good paintings by De lieyser, Navez, Overbeck, Schadow, and Jacobs. ' At No. 12, Rue de Jardin. is a good collection of paintings belonging to Mad. de Wuyts, shown for 1 fr. daily. Hand catalogue for each wall. Many of the pictures bearing great names ' appear to be copies or imitations; but tnc following are worth observation :__ Glauber and '“Laz'ressc, Small wooded landscape; Ruysdacl, Forest scene and brook; Cottage in wood ; Schalken, Candle-light efi'ect; Owneganck, Sheep and goats; Du Jardin, Italian Osteria; Venneman, Rustic dinner; De Braekeleer, Little Housebreaker; Sehelflrout, Winter seene; Kobcll of Utrecht, Landscape; Leys, Cottage interior; G/reuze, Child’s head; Wolf- raet, Interior. M. Notebohm (3, Rue du Fagot) has . a choice collection of modern paint- ings. Adm. daily, except Thurs. and Fri. In a small room on the 1. are some cabinet ornaments, and a few old pictures. The larger rooms con- ‘ 1'21 ' which are without a White horse—y . Rhine; . \ \ 122 tain the following i—Achenbach, Forest . scene; Beaume, Sixtus V. as a boy, listening to a fortune teller; De la Roche, Holy Family; Gude, large Norwegian landscape; Herring, Forge; 0-1mneganck, Cattle in a landscape; ' Le‘opold Robert. Ischian peasants; limelingcland, Portrait busts. ‘ Starting from the west door of the Cathedral and Q. Matsy’s Iron \Vell, a short street rt. leads into the Grande Place, once the most interesting in Antwerp from the character of the tall stately gabled houses, mostlv belonging to ancient guilds. No. 17, the Archers (1513); No. 36, the Draper‘s; No 40 (adjacent), the Car- .penters; and No. 15, the Coopers. The large fountain group represents the maids of Antwerp and the. slaying of the Giant by Brabo. It consists of bronze figures on a rustic pedestal, and was erected by Nottcbohms in 1867. The Hatel de Ville (1581‘), on the W. side of the Grande Place, is a handsome edifice, of Italian archi- tecture, designed by Corn. de Vriendt (Floris), ornamented externally with the 5 orders. one over the other. The building is under restoration, and cannot be visited between 9 and ~t (l franc). In the Salle des Mariages is a richly curred chimney-piece, re- presenting the Marriage ot'Cana, from the Abbey of ’l‘ongerloo (lite. 77); in the Salle dc Justice, another, an elegant work in the style. ot' the Renaissance. The Council Chamber contains a painting of the Judgment of Solomon, by F. Floris. royal por- traits' by De Keyscr, and a good example of thh-cent. wood-carving. The Great Hall has been decorated with tine *large fresco paintings of ' historic events, connected with Ant- werp, its sieges, &e., by the late renowned painter Baron Legs. The artist worked for ten years upon them, and died (1869) before they were finished. The street on the rt. side of the H. de Ville conducts to the Scheldc, on the bank of which stands the Route 31.—A_ntwerp : Vflételide Wile ; Sect-II. *Steen. Once the city jail, it is now converted into a Museum of Anti- quities, and is well worth a visit. (Open daily, 10 to 4, free.) It is a building of the 16th cent, but is attached to an older tower, once part of the city walls. Most curious and horrible are the dungeons and chambers of torture, supplied with water through pipes, by which the prisoner could be choked or drowned, or subjected to droppings on his skull, and finally could be dismissed through an oubliette into the river below. The Museum contains historic relics, arms, armour, furniture, insignia of city guilds, and a very early suit of mail with peaked helmet: also in one of the upper rooms a. model of the Cathe- dral chimes. In the court is a sort of pillory, to which prisoners were bound. At the side of the Old Dock, between it and St. Paul’s Cll., is L8. Boucherie, the Butchers’ Guildhall, a quaint and picturesque building of red brick and stone. surmounted by turrets with pinnacles, erected in 1503. Part of it stands on an arch thrown over the moat of the old Burg. The wide and handsome Place de Meir, E. of the Place Verte, contains the Palace (in Roi, a stately building, originally erected (1755) for a. citizen of Antwerp. From the W. end of the street issue rt. the Rue des Tan- neurs, Where is the English ch., and l. the entrance to the New Bourse. a Very handsome build- ing in late G 0thie.partly imitated from the 01d Bourse, built in 1531 (burned down 1858), which was chosen as a model for the loyal Exchange in London, by Sir Thomas Gresham, who resided as English Agent at Antwerp (1550). The inner courtyard, rooted over with glass, is surrounded by a handsome cloister or arcade, in two stories; the arches and supporting pillars in semi-Moorish style. The framework above is of wrought iron, and the heraldic bearings of the Belgian provinces adorn the walls. In the Longue Rue Nenve (D. 6) is the beautiful Gothic Chapel of Jan Belgium. ’ Route 31.'—.Statucs j‘ Pare; C’oncerts. , ‘ van Immerseel, with groined roof and Walls, painted by Antwerp artists of the 15th cent. ‘ No. 52. in the Place de Meir, is the House of Rubens, who is said to have designed its commonplace Corinthian front. It was built in 1611, rebuilt in 1703, and restored in 1864. Over it ‘ . stands a bust/of the painter, who died however in a house behind it, No. 7, Rue Rubens, on May 30th, 1640. In the garden stands the pavilion where he painted. The loyal Duke of New- castle (the horseman), having quitted England in disgust after the battle of Marston Moor, rented this house of Rubens’s widow, and entertained here Charles II. and many refugee Cavaliers. Edward III. visited the city in 1338, and a son born to him here by Queen Philippa was named Lionel of Antwerp. ' In the Place de Vendredi, 8.1V. of the. Place Vertc (plan F. (j), is the very interesting and unique >“Musée Plantin, or Printing Ofiicc of Plantin and Moretus, in which their descend~ ' ants carried on the business down to 1836. It was purchased by the city in 1876 for 48,0001., and is shown daily, except Sat, from 10 to 4 (fee, 1 fr.; good Catalogue ot' 1881). It re- tains their motto on its front, “ Lahore ct Constantia; " a collection of pie- ' tures, including 9 or 10 portraits of the Plantins, painted for them by Rubens, Vandyck, 85c. ; their presses, compositors’ cases, types, \\ ood—blocks, together with their library, and the correcting-room of Justus Lipsius, who was their reader and editor of the press. Among the miscellaneous curi- osities are 2 fine 17 th-cent. cabinets of tortoise-shell and mother—of-pearl, with miniatures of the 10th and following centuries, and illuminated missals; the first book printed by Christopher Plantin in 1555; designs for woodcuts by Rubens. On the 1st floor are numer- ous printed books, proofs, MSS., letters, &c.; and on the 2nd floor the type foundry. Here may be seen initial letters and tail-pieces of extraordinary beauty and elaborate device, besides a vast store of Roman, Greek, Hebrew, and Eastern type, cast for such 0123' stupendous works as the celebrated. “ Polyglott,” printed for Philip It. in ‘ 1573, a fine copy of which is preserved in the British Museumst The Maison Hanséatique (E. 3) is an interesting historical structure of 1568, erected from the designs of Cornelis de Vrz'endt. It was formerly the warehouse of the Hanseatic cities, and has been restored. W. of this, on the other side of the Petit Bassz’n, is the Maison Hydraulique, built about the same period by Van Schoonbelre, in connection with his important works for supplying water to the breweries of the town, from the HerenthaIS Canal. The house remains just as the great engineer left it, and is well worth visiting. Public Statues.-—Thc site of the old ramparts and bastions was bought for 13,000,000 fr. by a French company, Who have laid out boulevards, pro- menades, and squares on the ground thus gained. In the new Quartier Le‘opold has been erected a colossal statue of Boduognatus, a mythical chief of the Belgae (B. 9). In the Faub. Borgerhout is a Statue of Carnot, by De Cuyper. In 1814 Car- not undertook the defence of Antwerp without demolishing the suburbs, which had been proposed. In the Pare, a pretty garden on the site of the former bastions, decorated with sheets of water, and a chain bridge. is a statue of the painter Leys. In the Avenue des Arts, on the way from the Station, is a Statue of David Teniers; and in the Place Verte, S. of the Cathedral, is a large bronze statue of Rubens, by Greets (1840). Other statues are. tho.~e of Quentin Matsys and the poet Ityswyclr, at the N.angle of the Park ; of llenri Conscience the novelist, near the ch. ot‘ the Jesuits (E. 5); and of Van Schoonbcke, in the ’ Rue Mercator (B. 8). All the marble statues are covered up in winter. ‘ Concerts. — Good orchestral and choral music may be heard almdst 1- Sec ‘Quarterly Review,’ April, 1887. ‘1 The principal hotel-keepers can gene- ’ .' t K ‘ Route ESL—Antwerp : \ 124 every evening at one or other of the 'musical associations here, especially ‘ the concertsof La Socie’te‘d’Hannom'e ; in summer in their Garden at Berchem, in winter at their own rooms, the large hall of which holds 5000 people. Concerts also at the Ce'rcle Artistiquc, . where there is a room painted by native artists with 25 portraits of Belgian worthies, including a good full-length figure of Q. Matsys by Baron Leys. rally give admissions. , The *Zoological - Garden, close to the rly. stat. (B. 6), may be reached by tramway from the Place Verte. and should by all means he visited. (Adm. 1 fr.) The lion house is unusually large and handsome, and the grounds ’are well stocked with birds and animals, including girafl'es, zebras, ‘ elephants, and some fine specimens of the flamingo. The lions are fed at 12 and 4 o‘clock ; the seals about an hour previously. The extensive bird-cage ’ forms a very entertaining feature. Concerts are held here frequently in summer, information concerning which may be obtained at the hotels. The Maison des Orphelines, 29, Rue . Longue de l’Hopital, contains a small .xnuseum of ecolesiastieal antiquities, * open on Sun. and Thurs. from 11 to 3; 50 c. Over the door is 3. Girls‘ school of 1552, in stone relief. There are two well-managed Creches » at Antwerp, one in the Rue d'Ofi'erande (A. 5), the other in the Rue Happart, near St. Andre. The new National Bank, triangular in plan, near the Park (D. 7, S), is a handsome building. Close to it is the Place Leopold, adorned with a bronze equestrian statue of Léopold I., by Gcefs, below which is an interesting inscription. Immediately W. of the Jesuit Ch. (E. 5) stands the Municipal Library, open on week days from 9.30 to 4. In the Rue du Chéne (D. 0) is the Insti- tut de Commerce, containing 9. Com- mercial Museum. The Longue Rue Neuve leads hence NE. to the new Gardens; Theatres ; Sect. II.‘ Flemish Theatre, in fine large building, close to which, in the Place de la Commune, rises the Athénée Royal, erected in 188% by the same architect (Dens). The new Palais de Justice (E. 8) is an imposing edifice in the French chateau style. The Botanic Garden (E. 7) contains a good palm- house, and a statue of Peter Couden- ' berg by De Cuyper. Near it is the ‘ French Theatre (D. 6) with busts of dramatic celebrities and figures of the 9 muses. In the Place Marnix (F. S) is a monument by Winders (1883) to commemorate the abolition of the Scheldc dues 20 years previously, an event to which the city owes so much of her renewed prosperity. A similar event, the destruction of the old forti- fications which hemmed the city round on every side, is commemorated by the monument Loos, with a bust of the burgomaster from which it takes its name, facing the ch. of St. Joseph (C. 8). N.E. of this, at the angle between two streets, is a fine house in the Flemish style, built for Mons. Moretus- Plantin, a descendant of the great printers. ‘ The Porte de l’Escaut, on the Quai Plantin (F. 6), designed by Rubens, is the only ancient building now left,‘ besides the Steen, of the long row which formerly lined the river. The Docks and Basins, on the N. side of the city—Napoleon laboured unceasingly to make Antwerp the first seaport and naval arsenal of the N. Sea, to render it the rival of London in its commerce, and of Portsmouth as a naval establishment. He well knew that the trade of London would to a certain extent be at the mercy of a hostile fleet stationed so near to the mouth of the Thames as Antwerp. The works carried into execution by, him (1803—1811) are said to have cost 2,000,000]. sterling. The English endeavoured to frustrate so formidable a design ; and the ill-fated expedition of 1809 to Walcheren was designed for the destruction of these works. Napoleon‘s estimate of their impor- tance may be gathered from his own ‘3' Belgium. _ 'Ro‘ute31l—Quay; Fortifications ; 'Hz'story.~ '. declaration to Las Casas at St. Helena: “The werks hitherto erected were ~ nothing to what I intended. Antwerp was to rise a province in itself—France ' without the frontier of the Rhine and 7 Antwerp is nothing.’ - _ After the Peace of Paris, in 1814, the dockyards were demolished in accordance with that treaty. The two basins were allowed to remain for commercial purposes. One of them is capable of containing 34, the other 14 ships of the line. The docks in winter are of great service in protecting vessels, which, if allowed to remain in the open river. would be seriously injured by the floating ice. They are lined with capacious ware- houses. Large additional Dock Basins (Kattendyk) were opened to the N. of the Old, in 1800, below the town, near the Citadel du Nord, and N.W. of these two large Docks have recently been constructed by the eminent engineer, M. Royers, covering an area of 60 acres, at a cost of 5250,0001. A drive or walk round the Docks will afi'ord an excellent idea of the extent of the present commerce and shipping of the Port of Antwerp. The *Quay on the Schelde is one of the most remarkable works of the kind in modern engineering. It was carried out by M. Coiseau, a French- man, at a cost of 1,720,0001. ; but the entire expense incurred by the erection of sheds, cranes, otlices, 850., including sums paid for clearance and the pur- chase ot' sites, amounts to 4,000,0001. ' A foundation was obtained by the sink- ing of 150 huge inverted iron tanks (caissons), for holding compressed air while the sand of the river was being cleared away, the caissons being after- wards left in position. Above these rises a huge wall of concrete faced with brick, and finished 011' with blue stone from Soignies. The total length of the quay is 2}, 11)., but only about 301arge steamers can lie alongside at once, the strong currents of the Seheldc pre- venting their being moored in double lines. These improvements have placed Antwerp in the very first rank of European commercial ports, and have increased the tonnage. of' vessels entering the Sehelde from 250,000 tons , in 1850 to 4,250,000 in 1888. Antwerp , ' is now the chief outlet for the ship-\ ment of Italian produce to England, being 50 miles nearer to Milan than . Ostend, and 83 miles nearer than Boulogne, an advantage which'will still be maintained even if tunnels 1 should be pierced beneath the Simplon 7 or Mont Blanc. A pleasant trip may be taken on the Schelde by steamer to Tamise (Rte. 40), or Boom (Rte. 59), return- ing, if preferred, by train. ‘ ’ The new Fortifications, planned' and erected by General Brialmont (1862—65), consist of a. very strong enceinte, drawn in a semicircle from the old Citadel above the town, outside the villages of Berchem and Berger— hout, to the Schelde, below the city. A large New Citadel, commanding the River (Citadelle du Nord), has superseded the old Forts. About 2 m. beyond the new enceinte comes an outer circuit of 8 detached Forts, con- nected together by a military road, at such a distance from Antwerp that shells, from an enemy outside, will not reach the city. Each fort has 135 guns, and behind are sheltered galleries where a battery of field artillery can be kept under cover without unharnessing the horses. The whole enceinte includes bomb- proof barracks for 30,000 men, and about half of it can be laid under water by cutting the dykes. The newest addition to the defences is the Fort of Schooten, 6 m. distant, where beton has been employed throughout instead of brick, and the cannons are placed under cupolas. The cost exceeded 2,400,000]. In the Arsenal dc Construction gun- carriages and all artillery appendages are made, and in the Ecole dc. Pyro- technic ammunition for ordnance and small arms is prepared. History—Antwerp has at all times been the great stronghold of Bel- gium; in the 16th cent. it was the ’ refuge of the Netherlanders, who, N125“: p» ’ 126 under the leadership of Marnix de St. Aldegonde, re-resisted the yoke of Spain for 13 months. The tyranny of Alva, under the directions of his bigoted master, Philip II. of Spain, caused the decay and fall of its prosperity. The establishment of the Inquisition, and the persecutions occasioned by it, drove thousands of industrious inhabitants to seek an asylum elsewhere. To this persecution England is indebted for her silk manufactures, which were introduced by Flemish refugees from Antwerp, in the reign of Elizabeth. Another blow to its prosperity was the Siege of 14 months in 1585, which ended in its capture by the Prince of Parma, one of the most memorable exploits of modern warfare, whether we consider the strength of the place, the hearty resistance offered by the 'citizens, who yielded at last only when starved out by famine, or the political consequences resulting from it. Then came the loss of the navi- gation of the Schelde, which fell into the hands of the Dutch at the union of the Seven Provinces; and the . subsequent closing of the river by the Peace of Westphalia in 1048, com- pleted its commercial ruin. The Revolution of 1830 annihilated the profitable commerce carried on with the Dutch colonies; but in later times Antwerp has again risen to be one of the prominent cities of Europe and the greatest port of Belgium. The siege of 1832 began Nov. 20 and ended Dec. 23, when the Dutch gar- rison, under General Chassc’. sur- rendered themselves prisoners of war. The French force, under the command ‘of Marshal Gerard, actually employed in the siege, was 50,000 men. The Dutch garrison amounted to 4500 men, with 145 pieces of ordnance. The French had 223 guns. Route 32.——Londoh to Brussels. i Sect. II; ROUTE 3‘2. LONDON TO BRUSSELS, HRUGES, s'rmnnn. BY OSTEND, AND GHENT.—RAIL AND Three Services daily, by fast trains on the English side and well-appointed steamers of the Belgian Mail Go. from Dover to Ostend. Sea-passage, about 1 hrs. The light of Dunkirk, about 15 m. S., is seen before the ()stend light. The harbour of Ostend, which is dry at low water, is distinguished by a lighthouse 105 ft. high, and is flanked by 2 jetties, furnishing agreeable walks; at the entrance is a bar of sand, which is kept down by the periodiCal discharge of pent-up water collected in the *Bassin de Chasse, 011 the l. of the first Channel. The masv sivc sluice-gates are suddenly opened at low water, and the sand is swept away. The Rly. is extended along the jetty to the side of the harbour, so that travellers landing from the steamer and proceeding further can reach the train at once. Registered luggage examined at destination. OSTEND (20.000), once a strong fortress, and now a cheerful, fashion- able, and much frequented watering- place, stands in an angle between the sea and the harbour, and even on the land-side is nearly surrounded by water. The land lies very low all round, and the waters are controlled by means of sluiccs. The old town has nearly disap- peared, and large handsome buildings have been built on the sites of the small Flemish houses. In the Ch. of SS. Peter and Paul, 5 min. N. of the stat, is a monument to Queen Louise, 2nd wife of King Leopold, (laughter of lBel‘gium. ‘ Route 32.—Ostencl : Bathing ; Fish—market. - ‘ Louis Philippe. who died herein 1850. The dying queen, sculptured in white marble, lets fall her earthly crown, and receives a heavenly crown from an angel. The modern Dominican ch. of S. Catherine, in the Rue Christine, ' to the N.W., is a handsome building in l3th-cent. style, with well-carved confessionals and an effectively treated . apse. The most agreeable spot in Ostend 'is the *Digue, a sea-wall 40 ft. high, 35 yds. broad and 3 m. long. It forms a charming and lively public pro- menade, and commands a wide extent of dunes and flat sands bordering the sea, not a tree being visible. This and the wooden piers (estacades), stretching on both sides of the harbour’s month, are much resorted to at all hours, especially in the evening. On the Digue is the Assembly Room (Kur Saal), a handsome building, with Concert-hall, Restaurant and Reading- room. Subscription, Ell'rs. aday; 13 frs. a week; 35 frs. a month. Ostend is resorted to in summer by 16,000 visitors—many Germans; the - King of the Belgians and Court repair hither, and a Palace has been built for the Royal family on a mound, just beyond the Cursaal. Further on is the Hippodrome; and, adjoining it, Fort Wellington. There are 400 Bathing Machines on the beach, and the sands, divided into safe little bays by groins carried out from the Digue, are very extensive and smooth, and are crowded with bathers of both sexes, decorously clad in bath-dresses (Toilette do Rain), by order of the police. Bath tickets for a machine, including towels and costume, 1 fr. Regular bathers should provide these things for themselves, and pay for the machine only. A fee of 10 c. is demanded for driving and cleaning the machine. Gentlemen may avoid these expensive formalities by bathing early in the morning at the Paradis, in front of the Royal Villa, without a machine. A tent for sitting on the sands costs 1 fr. a day, . and each chair 10 c. The Place d’Armes, in a direct line between the stat. and the sea, is the 1 27 central point of the town. On its S." > ' ‘side is the Hotel de Ville, the ground floor of which is partly occupied by . the Societe‘Lz'tte’raz’re, a sort of assem- bly-room or club, provided with news- papers, coffee and billiard rooms. Adm. to strangers properly intro- , duced, for 5 days, gratis; afterwards, 3 frs. a month. On the lst floor is the Casino, where balls and concerts are given 3 times a week. \ The coleoptera and plants found on the sand-hills near the town are in- teresting to the naturalist. The Fish-market, a round building ‘ close to the Steamship rly. stat.,,is' ' well supplied, and should be visited on “Ted. or Fri., when the fish is sold by auction—a characteristic and amusing scene. The English system of bidding is here reversed, the sales- man fixing at first an exorbitant price, and gradually descending until he finds a willing purchaser. The Minque, or Fish auction, realizes 160,0001. a year. Two modes of fishing are now in use, the drift-net, and the trawl-net; the latter, of comparatively modern date, consists of a net let down from a trawl-beam and dragged along the bottom of the sea. Both are employed by English fishermen, but the Belgians employ only the trawl- net. Frequent collisions occur between trawlers and drifters owing to the alleged difficulty of seeing where the _ nets are, and during the autumnal herring season there are sometimes from 8000 to [0,000 miles of nets in the North Sea at one time. Outside the Bruges gate are the Oyster Parks (Huitrz‘éres), salt-water reservoirs filled with oysters brought» from Harwich, Colchester, and else- where on the English coast, and fattened here. They are transported hence as far as Paris, under the name of Huitres d’Ostende. The Parc Leopold, 1} in. NW. of the stat, is a pleasant public garden. Between 5 and 6 millions of rabbits, bred upon the dunes near Ostend, are killed every year, and sent in cases containing (5 dozen each to England. 7—_W'A7'm"fi 128 , ' :- odicall-y to the sea, by the scintilla- tions of countless marine animals. The rush of water from the sluice gates, at low tide, mentioned above, afl'ords ,a good opportunity of observing it. (Enquire about time, 310., at the Pilot Ofiice, on the Quai des Pécheurs.) English visitors who spend the summer here may be glad to witness a Kermesse, or popular festival, when various national games are celebrated, and the Belgian archers display their skill. The blessing of the Sea, on 29th June, the feast of St. Peter the fisherman, is an interesting ceremony. The Lighthouse (175 ft.) E. of the Bassm dc Chasse, is best visited by ' boat (500. there and back), as the road is circuitous. *Fine view f1om the lantern (50 0.). The scientific in- struments here employed are also worth inspecting. The promenade on the Digue ex- tends as far as (3 m.) Mariakerke, a village also much frequented in the bathing season. 3 In. further lies Middelkerke, noteworthy as the starting-point of the submarine tele- graph to England. Here also is 8. Hospice for delicate children, esta- blished in 1881. Steam tramway to both these places 7 times a day, pro- longed to (12 in.) Nieuport, and (19 1n.) Fumes (Rte. 38). 011 the bank of the canal, fi hr.’s walk E. of Ostend, is the village of Slylrens, with a cafe‘. Ostend endu1ed one of the most famous Siegesi‘ r'ec01ded in history, from the Spaniards. 1601 to 1601. The town yielded to General Spinola at last, only by command of the States- General, who had gained their point by its obstinate resistance. 50,000 of the besieged, and 80,0001 Spaniards, are said to have fallen. The victors paid dearly for their conquest; all that they gained was a plot of ground covered with ruins; for their cannon had levelled every house with the earth; and they lost 1 other towns, _ wrested from them by the Dutch while ‘ their armies were c111g11gcd in this un- + See the vi1 id description' 111 Motley’s ' Hist. of the Netherlands. Route 32.4.BMges. ’ One of the curiosities of the place is the luminous surface imparted peri- ' Sect. II profitable, enterprise. The noise ‘0 the bombardment was, it is said, been in London. ' At Ostend, Arthur Wel lesley first set foot on the Continen (1794) in command of the 33rd Regt. forming part of the army of the Duk1 of York. From the town stat. of Ostend 1:111 rly. runs S.E. through a well-culti vated but tiresome country, paralle with the Bruges Canal, a branch 0 which, leading to Dunkirk, is crossec at 5 m. Plasschendaele Stat. At Ouden burg (2 m. S.) are kitchen-garden. which supply Ostend with fruit an( vegetables. 15 m. BRUGES J unct. Stat. (Flem Brugge, i.e. Bridges). INDEX. PAC] Begulnage . . . . . 13. Belfry. . 131 Brey del and De Coiiinc, Monument to . 13 Cathedral . . . 12‘ Caxton at Brugcs . . . . . 13. Chapelle du Saint. Sang . . . 13 Charles 11., House of . . . . 13 Com de Commerce . . . . 131 C1 aenenburg . . . . 13 Dames Anglaises, Conv e nt of. . . 131 De Mey er Collection of Dr. . . . 131 thlish Chu1cl1 . . . 131 ~ Schools . . . . . 18‘ Fleur dc Blé. . . . 13 Golden Fleece, O1der of the . . 13. J erus 11cm C.h . . . . . 18- Les Halles . . . . . . 131 Library . . . . 131 M1gdalene, Ch. ofS \M.. . . . 13 M 1\iniilian imprisonment of . 131 Memling, Statue of . . . . 13‘ Museum of Antiquities . . . . 13- —-— Painting . . . . 131 N otre Dame . . . . . 13‘ Palais de Justice . . . . . 131 Potcrie, N. D. de la . . . 13- Prinssenhot. . . 13: Public Gardens .11111 Proincnades . 13- lucerd Ofiice . . . . 13? St. Anne, Ch. of . . . 13‘ St. Gilles, Ch. of . . . . 13‘ St. Jacques. Ch. of . . . 13 St. J ohn. Hospital of . . . 13 St. Sebastian, Guild of. . . . 13- Seminary . . - 13' Simon Stevin, Statue of. . . . 13: 'l ow 11 Hall. . . . . 131 Van Eyck, Statue of . . . . 13: This city the Liverpool of the mid dle ages, which was rich and powerfu when Antwerp and Ghent weie ix o (491, 8 #7 -_ Hotels 1 Edam .7 .7777.E.5.| 3313 GE § zldelondzvs... 13.6. 3Rdul'ommare . E5. A for Murray‘s Handbook. SEszja-d’Or... 11 5% A cum-oa- Mama 1 Statues ‘7 i 6 Sam of'Nanling a 7 D7” of Ste-Vin. D6 8 D? MVmfiv'dc Dot. Qw) _ 7-,. w . ;J‘-\u“-“ _ o ‘ 9‘ ‘ ‘ ! ‘1; ,z ‘ ' QL‘Tk/r\ ' , Xv\ \7/‘1‘130’ ‘ _./ > \ I \ . . ‘ .3“ _ ULof Mitre Dam: 0|.af' S.‘J at: MWt . W910). amp. 3. Sang ~0Lof SFAnnc . Jermlan, a. Hospital of S? John Palm) tie-Justice Audmu' (Museum/ Hana, WW Thanh: NW sawo1...... I '. .' I ; ‘ \ ’ ' ' .7;- -_-___-,-__. 7M 7 8 Edy"? Weller Landau ; John qurlqy, Albanala Street Belgium. their infancy, is now reduced to 45,000 inhab., of whom 15,000 are paupers. In the 14th cent. the commerce of the world may be said to have been con- centrated in it. In the 13th cent. Bruges had been made a staple of the Hanseatic League, and of the English wool trade, and became the centre of resort for the Genoese and Venetian traders, who brought hither the pro- duce of Italy and the East, in exchange for the merchandise of northern Europe. Bruges was long the residence of the Counts of Flanders; but it reached the height of its splendour in the 15th cent, when the Dukes of Burgundy fixed their court here. It is connected with the sea by ship canals to Ostend and Sluys. At present it wears an air of dul- ness; the people in its streets are few, the full tide of population being con- fined to the neighbourhood of the Rly. Stats, the markets and the quays. Of late it shows signs of some Commercial revival, but its great extent, and the size and unaltered splendour of many of the public buildings and private houses—vestiges of its former wealth and prosperity—still deservedly attract the interest of the passing stranger. It yields also many hits of Gothic and old building suited to the artist’s pencil (see the borders of the canal at the back of the Town Hall). SKETCH or A WALK THROUGH BRrGEs. Start from the Railroad Station, by the Rue Sud du Sablon, which leads to the Cathedral (rt.) ; thence to Notre Dame, which is at a short distance to the S.E.—on the W. of this is the Hospital of St. Jean; thence, by the Dyver canal, through the fish-market, to the H6tel de Ville, Palais de Justice, and Chapelle du 8. Sang; thence by the Rue Haute, Pout des Moulins, and Rue Molenmaersch, to the Jerusalem Ch., beyond which are the Convent of English ladies and Guild-house of St. Sebastian; return by Rue and Pont des Carmes to the Academy, the Market Place, and the Belfry. [Belgiu/m, 1888.] Route 32.—-—Bruges : Cathedral. 129 The *Cathedral (St. Saussur) is a Gothic building of brick witha square tower, much disfigured by uncouth additions, and restored in 1875. The general character of the work is first- pointed, the nave being the earliest part; the transept with its large windows, and the choir-chapels, are of the 14th cent; and the clerestory of the nave late—pointed. The ch. con- tains numerous paintings and other works of art (Sacristan, 50 e. to 1 fr., according to the time occupied). Over the entrance doorway are Passion Scenes in gilded wood (1460). Further on in the N. aisle, at the entrance to the baptistery are two fine *Brasses, rt. 1439, 1. 1518. Within the chapel is a small Crucifixion, a handsome bracket candle‘bearer ot' wrought-iron, and a. *Last Supper by Pourbus, with Abraham, Melchise- deck, and Elijah on the wings; out- side, Christ appearing to St. Gregory, and 13 portraits (1559). In the tran— sept are 2 interesting chapels; on the rt. that of S. Barbara, entered by a handsome doorway, and containing a beautiful little wooden relief of St. Eligius (14th cent.) and the Virgin with SS. Luke and Eligius, by Blon- deel (1561); on the 1. that of the Shoe- maker-’8 Guild, with a carved door (1460), a 13th-cent. Crucifix over the altar, a winged picture by Pourbus the younger (1608) to the rt.,representing members of the guild, and some ad- mirable brasses—of 1387 and 1453 on the 1., and 1483 and 1555 on the rt. Above the carved choir stalls are the arms of the knights of the Golden Fleece, founded at Bruges in 1429, by Duke Philippe le Bon. In the chancel-aisle, or passage behind the choir, beginning on the N. side, is a beautiful painted Crucifix over the 1st altar, with two copper tablets of 1387 and 1457 against the wall. High up in the 2nd chapel, the *Virgin appearing to St. Bernard, 15th cent; by the opposite pillar, a Crucifixion and figures of a married couple, by G. de Witte. 3rd chapel: excellent stained glass, 16th cent; the *Child Jesus in the carpenter’s shop, painted by J. van Oost for the K 130 Route 32.—Bmges : Churches. Guild of Carpenters, and the Flight into Egypt. Behind the high altar to the rt. against a pier, is a curtaincd *portrait of Philippe le Bel (1505), father of Charles V., called Philippus Stole from his habit of carrying a stick. A street leading out of the N .E. corner of the Grande Place bears his name. The 6th chapel, close by, contains two pictures of the Saviour with the Vir- gin, and good brasscs on the floor, dated 1517 and 1525. Entering the S. aisle from the tran- sept, there is a good Crucifixion by an unknown master, and a celebrated but unpleasing *Martyrdom of St. Hip- polytus, by D-ierick Bouts. The ex- pression of grief in the saints counte- nance is, however, finely rendered, the horses are spirited in their action, and the landscape is undeniably beautiful. Further W., a. door leads to the Church- wardcn’s Vestry, containing several works of art, among which are the ivory crazier of St. Maclou (6th cent), with some missals, relics and carv- ings. Over the >2W. entrance-door is the wing of a l5th-cent. altar-piece in gilded Wood, representing the family of St. Anne. *Notre Dame (Onze Lieve Vrouw) is a church surmounted by atall brick tower, a fine work (1230—07) with modern spire, 390 ft. high. Frag- ments of transition and early-pointed work are visible here and there, but the main portion of the building is of the 14th. cent., the aisles and added chapels being a cent. later, and the entire upper part of the ch. com- paratively modern. This building also abounds in valuable works of art. Fee, 50 0.; royal tombs, 50 0. extra. The pulpit is one of those specimens of elaborate carving in wood, so common in the churches of the Netherlands. In a chapel in the S. side of the choir is a *statue of the Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, of exquisite beauty and the utmost delicacy of finish. The original study for the head of the Virgin is preserved in the South Kensington Museum. Horace Walpole is said to have ofl'ered 30,000 ii. for this group Sect. II. of sculpture. It was carried to Paris by the French. Beyond, in a chapel in the aisle S. of the choir, are the magnificent Tmnbs of Charles the Bold Duke of Bur- gundy, and his daughter Mary, wife of the Emperor Maximilian. The crowned efligies of both father and daughter, made of copper, richly gilt, repose at full length on slabs of black marble. The *Monument of Mary of Burgundy was executed, by orders of Maximilian, in 1195, by Peter de Beckere of Brussels, and is far superior to the other. Beneath and round the sides are 36 coats of arms richly enamelled, arranged in the fashion of a genealogical tree, supported by angels. “ The exquisite richness of the monuments, the his torical interest attaching both to the father and daughter, and the afi‘ecticn of the Flemish for the memory of this young countess—who died when pregnant at the age of 25, in con- sequence of a fall from her horse while hawking with her husband nea] Brnges,—rcn:ler them objects worthy of considerable attention.”—Southey. In 1558 Philip II. bespoke a toml exactly like it for his great-great grandfather, Charles the Bold, anc' paid one Master Jonghelincx for i‘ 14,000 fl., besides 40 ii. to each work man as compensation for the loss 0 his teeth in the process of enamelling The Duke is decorated with the crde of the Golden Fleece. These monu ments were removed from the choi into this chapel in 1816. To the rt of the entrance is the tomb o Lanehals, beheaded in 1488, to when the chapel was originally dedicated. PAINTINGS: On the W. wall, D Crag/er, Adoration with numerou Saints, 9. large and overrated wori (1662). Seghe-rs, Adoration of th Magi ; B. can Orley, Crucifixion, wit -1 subjects on the wings, restored i' 1589 by Pourbus the younger. In th S. aisle, by the 2nd pillar, J. m Oost, Virgin with *St. Catharine an many Saints (ISIS). 3rd chape C'Iaeisscns, Virgin and Child in a lane scape, with portraits, &c.; on the V1 Belgium. wall a *triptych of the Virgin and Child with an angel bringing fruit, flanked by portrait groups (1579). 4th chapel, Pourbus, Transfiguration. Beyond, H. met do Bles, Annunciation and Adoration, on gold ground. Further on, beyond a good copy of Vandyck’s Crucifixion, a black marble tomb, and Last Supper by POlll'bllS (1562). The large crucifix over the hideous rood screen dates from 159%. The Choir stalls are surmounted with arms of the Golden Fleece, commemorating a chapter of the Order held here in 1468. In the aisle to the rt., beyond the Michael Angelo statue, are SS. Paul and Rosalia, by J. van 0081‘, imitated from Vandyck (Belvedere). On the N. side of the choir aisle, closml by shutters painted in grisaille (Adoration and Circumcision), are the *Seven Sorrows of Mary, by an un- known master. Further on, high 11p near the roof, are some panels in oak Of a rich Gothic pew(1'-174), formerly connected by a passage with the house of the family to which it belonged. Near the entrance t\ tlze N. transept, on the 1., hangs a picture by Van ()ost of the Calling of S. Matthew (160%). The late Gothic Baptistery in the N. aisle was formerly a p0rch,and is highlypicturesque, espe- cially on the outside. Between the 4th and 5th piers of the N. aisle is a fine fragment of early-pointed work, form- ing the base of the tower, with door for ascending. Under glass, in the chapel of S. Joseph, 1. aisle of choir, is a handsome modern chaisse in the style of the 12th cent., ornamented with jewels, cameos of the late and present pope, and armorial bearings of donors in enamel. St. Jacques (E. 4) contains nu- merous pictures, arranged as in a gallery, with the painteis’ names attached. 2nd ch. 1. aisle, Blondeel, SS. Cosmas and Damian (1523); Pourbus, Seven sorrows of the Virgin (1556). End of l. aisle, *J. can ()ost, Presentation of Mary in the Temple; end of right aisle, Pourbus, Virgin and Child; small chapel with good tomb of Ferry de Gros and his two Route 32.—~0’hurches ; Hospital. 131 wives (1514), and a beautiful terra- cotta Virgin and Child of the Robbie School, within a green garland. The 1st e11. in l. aisle has 3 good brasses, the finest of which is dated 1577. The architecture of the eh. is only remark- able for a good early-14th cent. tower- chamber in the N. aisle. The rest is of poor 15th~cent. work in the lower part, the upper part and all the windows having been re-built in the 18th cent. Opposite the W. front of Notre Dame is the *HOSPITAL or ST. JOHN, an ancient charitable institution, where the sick are nursed by the Soeurs de la Charité. Admission 9 to 12 and 1 t0 6, 50 0.; closed on Sunday. The Chapter House contains those cele- brated pictures by Memling, which have long been the pride of the city and admiration of artists. The most elaborate of these works is the *Relz’quary or Chésse of S. Ursula, a wooden coffer for holding the arm of the saint. On each side of the cover are 3 medallions, the smaller of which contain angels play- ing instruments, the larger a corona- tion of the Virgin and the Glorifica- tion of S. Ursula. On one gable end is the Virgin and Child, on the other S. Ursula, with her companions under her cloak. On the long sides are subjects from the legend of S. Ursula, who, according to the legend, was the daughter of a British king; with a train of 11,000 virgins, her rejected lover Conan, and an escort of knights, she made a pilgrimage to Rome. on their return they all sufi'ered martyr- dom by the Huns at Cologne. The original legend of the Saint and her companion begins “ Ursula ct Undeci- ma, Virgines,” whence the error as regards the 11,000. The paintings are executed with the most delicate finish. 1. In the landing at Cologne, the traveller will recognise the cathe- dral, churches, and other buildings of that city, copied with considerable fidelity. 2. The landing at Basle: the back-ground a veracious View of that city, with the distant Alps. 3. The arrival at Rome; the Pope receives the pilgrims. 4. Return to K 2 132 Basle, and re-embarkation on the Rhine. 5 & 6 form one picture, the groups and background being con- tinued from one to the other—the martyrdom of Conan and of S. Ursula in the camp of the Emperor Maximin, on the Rhine. “These little pictures are among the very best productions of the Flemish school. The drawing in these small figures is much more beautiful than in the larger ones by the same master. There is nothing in them meagre, stiff, or angular: the movements are free; the execution and tone of colour, with all its softness, very powerful; the expression in the single heads of the highest excel- lence.”—Kugler. A second picture by Mcrnling is the *Virgin and Child, with S. Catli— erinc ; on the shutters the Decollation of S. John Baptist, and S. John Evangelist at Patnios: on the out- side S. Barbara and other saints. The artist never surpassed, or even equalled, this great performance. The stiffness of the figures is usual in paintings of the period at which these were executed ; but the careful finish of the heads—equal to that in the finest miniatures—the exquisite cha~ racter which they discover, and the beauty and vividness of the colouring are rare and truly admirable. It was executed in 1479, and bears Mem- ling’s name. Another small altar- piece is the Adoration of the Magi; on the wings are the Nativity and the Purification in the Temple. 3. llead of the Sibyl Sainbetha, in 15th-cent. costume. 4. A folding picture, the Virgin in a red robe, with the Child ; and the admirable portrait of Martin V. Newenhowen the donor. An Entombment, with SS. Adrian, Barbara, Helen, and Mary of Egypt, is also attributed to Memling, but is probably a school piece. Over the door is a Virgin and Sleeping Child, ascribed to V andyck, and on the same wall to the l. a fine head of a philoso- pher, by J. can Oost. A portrait by Pourbus (No. 33) is also worth atten- tion. The large unaltered Gothic hall, Route 32.——Bruges : Town Halt; Sect. II. with rows of pointed arches on piers, is divided into bedrooms, kitchens, and various offices. The patients are nursed in a more convenient modern building. A statue of Memling was erected in 1871, in the Place du Vieux Bourg (plan 0. 5). The Town Hall is an elegant Gothic structure, though of small dimensions, begun in 1380, but finished much later, and recently restored. The niches in front are decorated with statues of the Counts of Flanders ; re- placing originals which, on the arrival of the French revolutionary army, in 1792, were pullel down and burnt ir a bonfire. At a bronze balcony (Bret t‘cque) in front of the building tlu Counts of Flanders presented them selves to the citiZens alter their acccs sion, and took the oaths, promising t( maintain the privileges of the town The Grand Hall. extending nearly tht whole length of the building, is re niarkable for its pendent Gothic roo of wood. Adjoining the H. do Vill on the l. is the Record Office (Maiso de l'ancien Grejfc), a Renaissanc building of1537. now a Court of Law It contains nothing remarkable one; the carved doors KISH) formerly i the cathedral. N. of the H. de Ville is the *Palai de Justice, anciently that of t1] Franc de Bruges (Flem. Vrye va Brugge), an extensive district llldt pendent of the town, comprising for bailiwicks, and the towns of Dunkii and Gravelines. The back view this building, toward the Fish-mul‘kt is picturesque. The Council Chamb of the magistrates is particularly d serving of notice: it is of the 16 cent., though the rest of the buildii dates from 1722. It contains a ma nificnt *chimney-piece, restored, at occupying nearly one side of the mo: carved in oak (1529), includi' statues nearly as large as life Charles V., Mary of Burgundy 9.: Maximilian, Charles the Bold a Margaret of York, his third wife, sr rounded with coats of arms of B1 Belgium. gundy, Spain, &c., and numerous charming putti. The lower part is of black marble, and the frieze is decor- ated with white marble reliefs repre- senting the story of Susannah. In the corner of the square, at the opposite end of the Town Hall, is *La. Chapelle (in Saint Sang, so called from some drops of our Saviour’s blood, brought by Count Thierry of Alsace from the Holy Land, and pre- sented by him to the town. Adm. 50 0.; free on Sun. 7 t0 9, and Fri. 6 to 12. This chapel is in 2 stories, and was originally dedicated to St. Basil. The upper building was encased in brick, with rich Flamboyant tracery of stone, in 1533, and is entered by an outer stair. It was restored with colour in 1839. The windows are filled with modern painted glass from old designs, representing Princes of the House of Burgundy. The altar also is modern. Here is a singular spherical pulpit carved in oak, 16th cent, and a carved stone reredos, erected in 1858. In a side chapel, opening through 3 arches, the phial of sacred blood is exhibited on Friday— 6 to 11.30 A.M. The most important painting is a *Descent from the Cross —an arched tryptich by Gheemrclt David. There are also some good portraits of members of the brother- hood by Pourbus (1556), and several early Flemish pictures of Passion sub- jects. In the Sacristy are preserved some valuable ancient sestments, a chasuble with embroidery of the 1th cent., and much fine lace, together with the silver-gilt enamelled Shrine, or chest studded with gems, made by Jean Crabbe in 1617. John Van Eyck, the painter, who died at Brugcs, 14:41, was buried in the former cathedral of St. Donalus, demolished by the French, which stood opposite the HOtel dc‘ Ville. A Place (plan D. 4) bears the painter’s name, and is adorned with a colossal bronze statue in his honour. N. of it stands the Library in the old Tonlz‘en (or custom-house) of 1477. It com- prises l5,000 vols, many valuable MSS. and Missals, and early printed Route 32.—Museum of Painting. 133 books of 1475. Open daily except Sat. and Sun, 10 to 1 and 4 to 7. W. of the statue is the *Museum of Painting (adm. 50 c.; free on Sun- days), in the building called Het Poorters Huis, originally the factory of the Biscayans, entrance on the N. side. Catalogue 25 0.1- The mostre- markable paintings are J. Van Eyck: *Virgin and Child, with St. George and St. Donatus; the donor on his knees, holding a pair of spectacles; date 1420. It has great character of nature, and is very minutely finished. “The kneeling Canon is a piece of pictured humanity that cannot be sur- passed.”——C. A *portraz’t of his wife, painted in a very superior style, de- serves minute attention. “A quiet look of competence, serenity, and homely virtue, supplies the lack of more striking attractions."—C. A head of Christ, with the date 1420; reduced replica of a picture at Berlin. ——Gheerardt David:—An altar-piece with folding-doors; in the centre the Baptism of Christ; on the wings por- traits of the donor (Trompes) of the picture, his wife and family; and on the outside the Virgin and Child. The landscape back-ground is finely finished, date 1507. “The trans- parency of the water, the reflections and shadows on its surface, and the rippling wavelets, show a marked advance on the efi'orts of his predeces- sors.”—C. A triptych by Memh'ng, 1484, in- jured by time and cleaning, represents St. Christopher with the intent Jesus on his shoulders. St. Ma'ur, rt., St. Giles, l. The portraits of the donors of this picture, and their family, are very fine. It was painted for Willem Moreel, or Morelli, a special patron of Mcmling’s. “ Morelli was a successful Italian merchant and banker. Mem. ling catches his bright capable expres- sion, and the peculiar pesition ot‘ the lips which indicate strength of will.” —C. Other pictures here are attri- buted to Memling, but their genuine- +The pictures have been temporarily placed icnrgoms at No. 84, Rue St. Catharine (plan . 7 . 134 Route 32.—Bruges .- ness is doubted. Not undeserving of notice are 2 portraits of a burgess of Bruges and his wife (1554), 2 Last Judgments, by Pearl/us the. elder. and the Judgment of Cambyses, 2 subjects, by Ant. CIaesseus the elder. 0n the S. side of the Grande Place stand *Les Halles, a picturesque build- ing (1364») of red brick, of which one wing, intended for a cloth-hall, con- tains the Municipal offices, while the other is occupied as a meat-market. The Tower or Belfry in its centre is a Gothic structure (16th cent), impos~ ing from its height, 290 ft. The view from the top is extensive ; it com- mands the roofs of the city, and a map—like panorama of the surround- ing country. The Chimes (§ ‘25) from this tower are the finest in Europe, and almost incessant: they are played 4 times an hour by machinery, which may be seen near the top of the tower. It consists of an enormous copper drum, acting like the barrel of an organ, and setting in motion the keys of the instrument ; but 3 times a week, from 11} to 12, the chimes are played by hand. In the court on the l. is an interesting Museum of Antiquities. (Free on Sun. 11 to 1 ; otherwise 50 0. Ring the bell on the 1., immediately beyond the last gateway.) Here are tiles, armour, carved cabinets, crock- ery, a sculptured font of 1100, numer- ous architectural fragments, good examples ofnu-tal-work, old carriages, and musical instruments. Near the Pont de Paille (C. 4), on the B. side of the canal, is the house (No. 23) of Dr. dc .ll'eyer, containing some good Dutch and Flemish pic- tures. which the owner is obliging enough to show to visitors from 10 to 2 on Sat, or at other times it‘ a day’s notice be given. Further 1'}. is the Ch. of St. Anne, with some excellent wainscoting of 1609 and some indif- ferent pictures. Beyond, in the same direction, is the Jerusalem 011., re~ markablc only as containing a model of the Holy Sepulchre, entered by crouching under a low doorway. In the nave is a brass to the memory of the founder (1483). Walking N., and turning it. into the Rue des Cannes, \ Sect. II. we reach the Convent des Dame: Anglaises (B. 3). Apply for adm. about 10 A.M., at No. 77, door to the left in the court. Small fee. The high altar of the domed Chapel (1739) is a costly structure of Roman marbles, among which are specimens of giallo antico, cerde antz'co,fiore di persico, jasper, and various kinds of alabaster. The columns, however, are not solid, but veneered (impellicciate). At the side altar are slabs of giallo di Sierra, broccatello, serpentine, and other modern marbles. At the end of the street on the rt. is the Guild house of St. Sebastian (adin. 25 c.), containing a portrait by Bookorst (1657) of Henry Duke of Gloucester, and others by Vandyck, Yau (lost, &c. The room on the 1. beyond the bar is the drinking-room of members. and is furnished with a cupboard for bows and arrows. The ancient hospice of N. D. de la Poterie, on the quay of the same name, contains a. much venerated Image, and a good picture behind the altar by Clueissens, repreSenting the Trinity and the Virgin (1008). In the right aisle are stained glass win- dows of the 17th cent., in illustration of cures worked by the miraculous image. The foundation dates from 1252, but no part of the present building is older than 1359. S. stands the huge Episcopal Seminary. Bruges has always been a favourite place for education, and contains several well-conducted and high—class English schools, chiefly for Roman Catholics. The picturesque collegiate buildings in the Rue St. Georges (E. 2), N. of the conspicuous Normal School, were begun by SirJohu Sut- ton about the year 1860, but aban- doned after his death for want of funds. \V. of this point is the very ancient Ch. of St. Gilles, rebuilt almost entirely in the 14th cent. Against the wall on either side are some admirably executed modern Stations of the Cross. Close to the Public Garden (B. 6) TlSL‘S the lofty spire of the ob. of S. M. Magdalene, a plain but handsome modern building in late l3th-ceut. style. Museum ; Churches. Belgium. On the S. side of the Grande Place, at the corner of the Rue St. Amand, is the tall late-pointed brick house inhabited by Charles II. during his exile from England. It bears the sign Au Lion de Flandre. Even in his banishment he was not without a regal title, for the Burghers of Bruges elected him “ King of the Company of Crossbowmen ” (Roi des Arbalétriers). An Estaminet, in the opposite cor- ner of the Rue St. Amand, now occupies the site of the Craencnbm'g, historically remarkable as having been the prison of the Emp. Maximilian in 1488,when his unruly Flemish subjects rose up against him, seized him, and shut him up in this building, which they had converted into a prison by barring the windows. For 12 days he remained in close confinement, by reason of his refusal to make over the guardianship of his son Philip to the King of France. The Pope menaced them with excommunication, and the armies of the Empire were put in march against them. Nevertheless, Maximilian was not released until he had sworn upon his knees, before an altar erected in the middle of this square, in presence of magistrates, corporation, and people, to resign his claims to the guardianship of his son, to respect the liberties of Bruges, and to grant a general amnesty for past offences against his person and government. He ratified this treaty by the most solemn oaths on the Sac- rament, the relics of St. Donatus, and a fragment of the true Cross, in spite of which he broke it a few weeks later. Caxton “practyeed and lerned at grete charge and dispense” the Art of Printing here, under Colard Man- sion of Bruges. The Primsenhof (E. 5)—the ancient palace of th: Counts of Flanders, in which the marriage of Charles the Bold with Margaret of York, sister of Edward IV., was celebrated in 1468, and where Philip le Bel, father of Charles V., was born—is reduced to a few fragments of ruined wall included in a private house, but retains the old name, Route 32.——Bruges : Béguz'nage. 135 The Béguinage (D. 7), near the western extremity of the town, is inferior in extent to the one at Ghent. The ch., dedicated to St. Elizabeth, was founded in 1245, but has been much modernized. It retains a N. door of transition style, and stands in a Close planted with lofty elms. English OIL, Rue d’Ostende. Service on Sundays at 11 A.1\I. and 3.30 RM. The Ramparts, extending all round the town, are turned into public promenades. The chief manufacture carried on in the town is that of lace. A black cloak with hood, called faille, is generally worn by the females of the lower orders, or a lace cap, with primly plaited frills. Simon Stevin, of Bruges, was one of the best mathematicians of his age; he recommended, but did not invent, decimal arithmetic. He is the in- ventor of what is now called Bramah’s press. There is a bronze statue of him in the Place de Simon Stevin, close to the Cathedral. The centre of the Grande Place is adorned with a monument to Breydel and De Canine, heads of guilds who distinguished themselves at the battle of the Golden Spurs in l302. The famous order of the Golden Fleece was established by Duke Philip the Good, in 1430, at Bruges. In the symbol of this institution he paid a just compliment to the skill of the weavers of Flanders, who, by the per- fection to which they had brought the manufacture of wool. had mainly con- tributed to the rapid advancement in prosperity of this country during the Middle Ages. The fleece, therefore, was very appropriately chosen as an emblem of the power and splendour of the rulers of Flanders. During the discontents which broke out in Belgium in the 14th cent, Edward III. invited many Flemings to Eng- land, who took over with them the art of manufacturing the finer woollen cloths, previously unknown, and by their assistance the English workmen soon surpassed those of Flanders in excellence. The H. dn Commerce is an his- 136 torical edifice, having been built in 1600 by Don Juan Prado de Peralta, Consul of Navarre, as a Cour de Com- merce. In 1715 it passed into the possession of the Guild, of Courtiers, and subsequently became a hotel. The Theatre (D. 4) stands on the site of the old Hotel Fleur de Ble‘, once the great resort of English travellers (see Longfellow’s charming poem, ‘ Caril- lon’). Six canals concentrate at Bruges, from Ghent, Sluis (Eeluse, the old port of Bruges), Nieuport, Furnes, Ypres, and Ostend. The principal Club suitable for strangers is the Société Littéraire de la. Concorde. Post th‘ce, Rue de Cordoue. From Bruges a branch rly. runs N. to 7 1n. Lisseweghe Stat. The village, 1 In. E.. has a line 12th-cent. abbey ch., badly restored, but well worth a isit. 9 1n. Blankenberghe Stat. (3000), a fishing village, much frequented for sea bathing, and a formidable rival of Ostend. It has a brick-paved Esplanade on the Digue, 1 In. long, facing the sea. Two wooden piers flank the month of the canal. Belgium iszsupplied with fish from this place. .~ 15m. .Heyst Stat. (1800), another fishing village with a long brick Digue, which serves as a promenade for the numerous visitors in the bathing season. Pleasant walk to Knokke and its lighthouse, 2 m. N .E. along the shore. A canal, with shaded footpath, leads N.E. from Bruges to (3111.) Damme, now a small Village, but early in the 13th cent. the port of Bruges. Its basins held 1000 sail, where now is a fertile plain, owing to the silting up of the gulf of the Zwyn. It has a fine 13th-cent. eh., St. Mary’s.' partly in ruins, containing an old rood— screen and some incised slabs. 'l‘he IIdtel de Ville is an interesting edifice of the 14th cent, with fine hall. Here are preserved sundry instruments of torture, curious and horribly sug- Route 32.—-—Blankenberghe~ Ghent. Sect. Il. gestive. The canal is continued as far as (12 m.) Sluis (Fr. L’Ecluse), where Edward III. gained a great naval victory over the French fleet in 1340. The little town now lies 5 In. from the sea, within the Dutch frontier, and about 6 m. E. of Heyst. It was, however, the usual landing-place of Edward III.’s attacking armies, and is frequently mentioned in Froissart. Rly. S. to Thom-out (Rte. 42). For the alternative rly. to Ghent by Eecloo, see Rte. 51. The main line continues S.E., following generally the course of the great canal, which is bounded by high banks and fringed with trees. 28 In. Aeltre Stat, whence a steam tramway runs S.E. to Thielt (Rte. 38). 43 m. GHENT Junct. Stat. (138,000). Good buffet and toilet—room. Cab to the hotel, 1 fr.; tramway with hand luggage, 15 c. Ghent lies at the junction of the rivers Sehelde and Lys, whose numerous branches, traversing the town, form canals in all directions. The picturesqueness of the old houses, the fantastic variety of gable ends rising stepwise, or ornamented with scrolls and carving, arrest the stranger’s eye at every turn. (See § 24.) INDEX. PAGE Athénée . . . . . . 141 Bateliers. Maison des . . . . 144 llaudeloo Convent . . . . . 141 Banwens, Statue of . . . . 144 Begninage, le Grand . . . . 143 — lc l‘etit . . . . 144 Beltry . . . . . . . 139 Botanic Garden . . . . . 141 Boncherie . . . . . 141 Brewer of Ghent . . . . 14'). Cannon of 1452 . . . . . 142 Casino . . . . . . . 144 Catlr dral . . . . 137 Charles V. at Ghent . . . 1.19 Citadel. modern . . . . . 143 —— old . . . . . . 143 Cloth Hall . . . . . . 139 (‘luhs . . . . . . . 144 Conservatoire dc Musiqne . . . 141 (Tunpure,1u . . . . . . 144 Cour du Prince . . . . 141 English Church . . . . 144 Exchange . . . . 144 Gallows-house . . . . 141 Guislain, Statue of . . . . 144 Hotel de Ville . . . . r 140 fiend—55mm“: A' fining" 136?“ , . ’ ‘s'fl- . u i I ~ . '- -it\ rune-WNW . ~M ‘ mum“ wk: (a, nu%§;l 5 6 I I'Stmos. : a) ~1smorm4¢oca : g = a t :“30 : 1% A I831 #630 = “a I ~ :> ' ILWAY STAT! 1 IV , inn-(- mm ' , _ s Hotels. 2: Royal b dc Vinnie e do l'Eim'lc ddeLion d'Or f de la Pasta figa’y" 3.7"“ :— .v 1" \ x Buildilfis. Thaiflvl'lanm I'haitvi'nuuuisr Bdfi‘oi /1f¢lfi‘v Timer, C. 4. D. i. 03. CWIHI /‘ S, Ramn/ C. 3. ~ (‘hyr'a‘fllliduwl D. 3. L Muffin-1mm B. 5. L‘Jn .or'J‘SVirlwlas C. 3. Fnil'ma‘ib' D. 5. Museum C. 2. l“ mitt-1:19PM;- c. 3. . . quu'nage A.3. ‘ __ ‘ -. 1 . 511371119); (lurch C. 4._ ‘ -~ 1: (I ‘ ~79“ llnspital E. 4'. . ' \i‘ .1 fl ./ [H.mu 12.2. - wu‘ ,2 //' ("(13010 E. 3. ,/ k . 11111115 (infinitive DA. ' V J\ hm,” . t0]: hlm‘rlayls HaudbOOk’ that ice . \._ ‘. ’ may I a. afghan B‘ i “"\°\\\c/u >. .' »——-1———————--°f “ “‘1‘ l 9 5 EdwiiWeuer u l 09.10"“ John Murry! r,.-llbamu*1e Stain Belglum. PAGE James van Artevelde, House of 143 ——-— Statue of 142 John of Gaunt, Birthplace of . . 142 Kouter . . . . . . 144 La Houlte, Gardens of . . 145 Le Rabot . 141 Library . . . . 141 Marché du Vendredl . . . 141 Mctdcpenningen, Statue of . 144 Museum of Archaeology. 141 Pictures 140 Old Houses . 142 (ludeburg . 142 l’alais de Justice . 144 Penitentiary . 144 Post Office '. . 145 Potence, Café de la 141 Promenades . 144 St. Anne, Ch. of 140 Ste. Barbe, Ch. of . 140 St. Bavon, Convent of . 143 St. Jacques, Ch. of . 140 St. Macarius, Chapel of . 143 St. Michael, Ch. of . 139 St. Nicolas. Ch. of . . . . 140 Ste. Phara'ilde, Place de . . . 142 St. Pierre, Ch. of . . . 140 Siege of Ghent 146 Skipper House 144 Theatres . . 144 University (New) . 140 . 140 Van Eyck, House of 144 Zoological Garden . . . 144 The *Cathedral of St. Bavon (Flem. St. Baafs), a pointed Gothic edifice, is of less interest for its architecture than for its rich decorations and the objects which it contains. (When closed, knock vigorously at the W. door.) It was founded in the 12th cent., but the crypt is the only part re- maining of that age; The choir is of late 13th-cent. date, the nave and transepts of the 14th, and the aisles and all chapels a good deal later. The choir chapels and tran- septs are lined with marble, a decora- tion which, though splendid, by no means befits a Gothic church: the gates of the chapels are of brass, and statues and paintings ornament every vacant space. Over the plain piers, on which the simple pointed arches rest, are allixed at a considerable ele- vation the arms of the knights of the Golden Fleece. The last (23rd) chapter of the order was held in this church by King Philip II. of Spain in 1559. The arm-chair stalls are of carved mahogany. The pulpit was carved by Delvaux, an artist of Ghent. Route 32.—— Ghent : Cathedral. 137 Its white marble reliefs represent the preaching of St. Amand to the people of Ghent, the Nativity, and the Con- version of .St. Paul. The high altar itself is a tasteless object, bearing the statue of St. Bavon, in his ducal dress, by Verbruggen. In front of it are 4: tall copper candle- sticks, remarkable as having belonged to King rCharles I. It is supposed that they may have adorned the chapel of Whitehall, or St. Paul’s, and that they were sold and sent out of Eng- land in the Protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. They still hear the Tudor arms of the date of Edward VI. On each side of the choir, near the altar, are handsome monuments, with statues of 4 bishops of Ghent. The finest is that of Bp. Triest, by Duques- my (1st on 1.). The N. '1‘. scenes in grisaille (1774) are clever imitations of reliefs. ‘ The 24 chapels in the side aisles and round the choir contain pictures, which are here enumerated in order, beginning with that on the rt. hand as you enter the west door; fee for un- locking gates and drawing curtains, 1 fr. each person. 1st rt.: 0. de Crag/er (1657)—The Beheading of St. John. 2. Paelz'nck (1810)—St. Colette receiving a Grant from the Magistrates of Ghent to establish a convent. 5. (Beyond the transept) F mum's Pourbus—‘l‘Jesus in the midst of the Doctors: most of the faces are portraits; among them Charles V. and Philip II. may be dis- tinguished: on the wings, Baptism and Circumcision (1571). 6. G. de Orayer —Martyrdom of St. Barbara. 7. Van der Meire (a pupil of Van Eyck)— Christ between the Two Thieves. In the 10th chapel, or 6th beyond the transept, is one of the finest works ever produced by the early Flemish school—the masterpiece of the brothers HUBERT and JOHN VAN EYCK, cele- brated all over Europe (1432). The subject is the *Adoration of the spot- less Lamb. In the centre is seen the Lamb, as described in the Apocalypse, surrounded by angels, and approached by worshippers in 4 groups: on the it, above, the holy virgins and female 138 saints ; below, popes, bishops, and founders of monastic orders; left, above, bishops and martyrs; below, Eastern saints and prophets. In front, on the 1., kneel prophets; on the rt. apostles; while in the horizon rise the Towers of the New Jerusalem (said to be those of Bruges. Utrecht, Cologne, and Maastricht). On the 1., in the lower wing, the painter Hubert in black on a white horse, wearing a coral chain, turns his face towards his brother John. More than 300 heads may be counted in this wonderful pro- duction, all finished with the mOst scrupulous minuteness. The upper part of the picture contains, in three compartments, the figures of God the Father, with John the Baptist on the one side, and the Virgin on the other. This picture is remarkably free from the stiffness of the early school: the finish of the faces is most elaborate, and the strength and freshness of the colours in a painting $00 years old are truly wonderful. “The figure of Christ is one of the grandest creations of all art. Majestic calm is the leading quality of His face. This is the first picture ever painted with a fine land- scape background.”—C. Two pairs of shutters or folding doors below, and two above, painted within and without, originally formed part of this picture. The whole was taken to Paris by Napoleon, but the central portions alone were restored. The 6 most important of the wings were sold for 16,4001. to the Royal Museum at Berlin. The originals of these are now replaced by copies from the pencil of Michael Coexie; 2 of the wings, representing Adam and Eve, are in the Museum at Brussels. 11. G. IIonthorst——Deseent from the Cross; and, at the side, G. Cruyer, Crucifixion. ll. *Rubens—St. Bavon rcnouncing the profession of a Soldier to enter the Convent of St. Amand as a Monk. The figure of the saint is said to be a portrait of the artist himself. “This picture was formerly the ornament of the high altar of this cathedral, but was displaced to make room for an ordinary piece of sculpture. The saint Route 32.—G’—kent : Cathedral; Sect. II. is represented in the upper part of the picture, in armour, kneeling, received by a priest at the door of a church: below is a man, who may be supposed to be his steward, giving money to the poor. Two women are standing by, one of whom appears to be pulling off a chain, as if she intended to follow the example before her. This picture, for composition, colouring, richness of effect, and all those qualities in which Rubens more particularly excelled, claims a rank among his greatest and best works."—R. Otto Venius— Resurrection of Lazarus; Very good. Opposite is the recumbent effigy of Bp. Damant (160)). 16. Seghers— Martyrdom of St. Lieven. 18. Apocy, from Rubens, the 1\Iartyrdom of St. Catherine. Opposite is the monument of Bishop Van Eersel. 20. M. Comte ——Thc Seven \Vorks of Mercy. Re- turning into the nave, we reach the 21st chapel, where a marble slab re- cords the names of the priests who refused to recognise Bp. Lebrun, ap- pointed by Napoleon in 1813. 22. G. Craycr—St. Macarius praying for those afiiicted with the Plague, whilst he is himself struck by the Pestilence. 23. II ufiel—St. Lambert carrying red hot coals on his Surplice to light the In- censc. The font at which Charles V. was baptized stands in the baptistery at the W. end. The Crypt, now a disused lumber- room, has several good early-pointed capitals attached to its heavy piers. In the 5th bay onthe rt. lie buried Hubert Van Eyck and his sister, also a painter, who may be said to have been literally wedded to the art, since she rejected all offers of marriage in order to devote herself to it. The Cathedral sutl'ered material injury from the fanatic fury of the Calvinists in 1566; 400 of the lowest class of the people, entering it by night, oom- meneed by torch-light the work of demolition, dashing the images and painted glass to pieces with their pole- axes, efi‘acing the rich sculpture, and cutting the pictures to shreds. With- in 3 or 4 days every church in Ghent shared a like fate. Philip II.’sanger, fielgium. ithus aroused, brought upon Belgium the curse of the Inquisition and the scourge of an Alva z—conflscation, exile, or death, were the consequences. The Befi‘roi—Belfry Tower—280 ft. high, is one of the most ancient build- ings in the town, having been begun in 1183. It has been repaired (1855), and a spire of iron (375 ft), painted to look like stone, placed upon it. One of the earliest privileges which the citizens obtained from their feudal lords was to be allowed to build a belt'ry. and they long regarded it as a kind of monument of their power and wealth. It originally served as a watch-tower, from which the approach of an enemy might be descried, and it contained the tocsin-bell, by the toll- ing of which the citizens were called together to arms or to debate. One of the heaviest of the bells bears this inscription :—“ Ik heete Roelant: als ik klippe dan ist brandt ; als ik luye, dan ist Sturm in’t Vlaenderlandt.” My name is Roland: when I clap there is fire; when 1 low (toll heavily) there is a storm in Flanders. The Dragon on the top, which the Gantois carried oil' from Bruges in the wars of the 14th cent, as a trophy of their conquest of that town under the generalship of Philip Van Artevelde, was re-gilt in 1851. It originally de- corated one of the Greek churches in Constantinople, and was brought thence by the men of Bruges who went on the 4th crusade as soldiers of Baldwin Count of Flanders in 120-1. The Iowa part of the building serves as a prison. Within the belfry tower is a fine carillon. (Ascent, 1 fr.; keys in the Cloth Hall, see below.) Charles V., when recommended by the cruel Alva to raze to the ground this town, whose rebellion had given him so much trouble, took him to the top of the Bell'roi, and, showing him the vast city spread out beneath, asked, “ Combien fuudruit-il de peaux d’lfispugne pour t'aire un gant de cette grandeur ‘3” —— How many skins of Spanish leather would it take to make such. a glove ?—thus rebuking the atroclous suggestion of his minister. Route 32.——0hurches. 139 It is, indeed, an interesting prospect. Besides the towers and steeples of many churches, and the imposing mass of the Town Hall close at hand, in the distance may be perceived the site and ruined chapel of the Citadel, built by Charles V. to overawe the citizens. Beyond this is the Great Béguinage, with its streets and squares; and still further to the left, near the Promenade ot'tl re Coupure, the Maison 'de Force, a vast building, re- sembling a wheel in its ground-plan, with the steeple of the prison church rising in the centre. Close to the Belfry Tower is the 01d Cloth Hall (1325), with a beautiful facade. In the Flamboyant Ch. of St. Michael “is, or rather was, the celebrated Crucifixion of Vandyclr, for it is almost destroyed by cleaning. Vandyck has here introduced a most beautiful horse in an attitude of the utmost grace and dignity. This is the same horse 011 which he drew Charles V., which isin the gallery at Florence; the head of the emperor he copied from Titian.”— In’. The picture stands in the N. tran- sept, with a curtain before it. Next to it is a picture by Paelink, 1811 (a, pupil of David), the finding of the Cross by the Empress Helena, whose figure is a portrait of the Empress Josephine. The best painting in the nave is the liaising of Lazarus, by Otto l'acm'us, 4th chapel rt. The pulpit of carved mahogany, represent- ing foliage of oak and vines, and rest- in g on the trunk of a rig-tree in marble, is a fine work of 1716. Below, is the figure of Christ healing the blind man. 011 the panels are reliefs of the Sermon on the Mount, Zacehzeus, Disputation in the Temple, and Ascension. In the choir, beginning with the S. side, the 3rd chapel has a good assumption of St. Catharine, by De Ural/er. 4th. P. de Clmnzpaz'gne, St. Gregory and his choristers. 8th. leuldcn, Martyrdom of St. Adrian. Leaving the ch. from the NJ}, and crossing the canal, 3 very picturesque house gables are seen to the l. ; and, looking back, the choir chapels of St. Michael cluster finely, 140 The Ch. of St. Nicolas (C. 3) has a good transition front flanked by round turrets, with a miserable 'inserted doorway. Turrets stand also at the corners of the tower and transepts. The ch. is remarkable for its lofty, narrow, early-pointed nave and aisles with chevet; and the plain, elongated, funnel-shaped capitals with round abacus, never carved, which terminate the clustered shafts, or rather mould- ings, of its piers. The upper part of the nave, and all windows, are much latzr. The vaulting ot' the choir rests finely on interrupted eorbel—shafts, which have been disfigured by modern ornamentation. The 3rd chapel rt. in the choir-aisle has an excellent window of 1851 (Madonna and Saints). In the nave, 2nd chapel It, is a Virgin and Children by Moes-Ca-nz‘ni. On a pillar to the 1., under a small Cruci- fixion, is an inscription recording the burial of a man and his wife who had 31 children. St. Jacques (B. C. 3) has a good Romanesque front with twin towers poorly restored. The early-pointed nave is supported by short round pillars, and the vaulting rests on interrupted corbel-shafts. All the rest is late. The 3rd chapel rt. has a good Tobias, by Mucs—Canini. Under the pulpit is a white marble statue of St. James. St. Pierre (D. 5), a large 17 th-cent. building, has a Nativity in a land- scape with rising sun, by Liemacclrere (1046), on the right at the en- trance. In the chancel~aisle, to the rt., Aront, Repose on the Flight, with 8 dancing angels. On the l. of the choir, De Crag/er, St. Benedict receiv- ing an Envoy. Further W., Jansscns. the Hermits Anthony and Paul in a ruined landscape. Half way between St. Pierre and the Place d'Armes are the extensive build- ings of the new University. N. of it, in a street running parallel with a canal (D. 4) is the large and handsome modern Jesuit Ch. of Ste. Barbe. Another remarkable modern ch. is that of St. Anne (B. 5), built from the designs of Roelandt (1853), and covered Route Bil—Ghent: Churches; Museum; Sect. II. with wall decorations by Belgian artists. The University (C. 3, 4) is a hand- some edifice, with a noble Corinthian portico, copied from the Pantheon at Rome. It was founded by William 1., King of Holland, in 1826. The en- trance—hall, the staircase, and the am- phitheatre, where academic meetings are held and the prizes are distributed, exhibit great taste. The Museum of natural history is of considerable ex- tent, and very good, especially in its anatomical and osteological collections. The number of students is about 400. The entrance is behind, in the Rue Longue des Marais. This is one of the three State universities, Li‘ege and Brussels being the others. The *Hotel de Ville has two facades in ditferent styles (C. 3). That to the N. including the elegant turret or tribune at the corner, in the richest flamboyant Gothic, overladen with ornaments, dates from 1480—87: that to the E. added 1595—1628, in the style of the Italian Renaissance, facing the Butter Market, has columns of 3 different orders one above another. The Congress of Contederatcs, who as- sembled in 1576 to expel the Spaniards from Belgium, signed the treaty known in history as the Pacification of Ghent in the Salle du Trent). The interior of the building contains nothing of interest, except Archives. The Museum (0. 2), Rue St. Margue- rite (cntrance at the side ot'the Angus tine Church), is open on Sun. and Thur. from 9 to 1‘2. and 2 to 5, free. Otherwise, 50 c. The following pie- tures may be selected for notice :— Artoz‘s: Landscape, good, De Crag/er: Judgment of Solomon : lllartyrdoni of St. Blaise; Tobias and Raphael. IIeda: Two good pictures of still life. JIcmnskm'k: Crucifixion, wild and impressive. Jordocns: St. Ambrose. Nicfs: Peter freed by the Ange? from prison. é elgiurn. - Pourbus: Hezekiah’s recovery, and the sun going ten degrees backwards ;' on the wings, Crucifixion and a donor; on the outside, Raising of Lazarus in grisaille.—20 scenes from the life of Christ, with the Last Supper on the reverse. Rubens: St. Francis receiving the Stigmata; “ without dignity, and more like a beggar; though his dress is mean, he ought surely to be repre- sented with the dignity and simplicity of a saint.”—R. There are several other large paintings by Rubens, of no great merit. Stork: Good sea-piece. Utrecht (A. van) : Fishmonger, with excellent fish. Vandyck: Portrait of himself, in grisaille. Vos (Martin dc): Family of St. Anne. The modern pictures, arranged in 2 rooms to the l. at the top of the stairs, are of quite unusual excellence :— Bossuct, Moorish Castle in Spain ; Bource, Cherry Ripe ; Bourgc, Fisherman's widow ; De Cock, Cattle; De Jong, Petition ; De Kesel. At the Bath; De Vignc, Fair in Ghent; Geir-rmert, Eviction ; Gerard, Alsatian wedding ; Gussow. Soldier’s story ; Lagge, Putting to bed ; l’illc, Pardon in Brittany; Robert, Dominican Friar, regretting the world ; Schofel, Sea-piece ; Van Mug/den, Abruzzi Mother and Child ; Vcrhoeclr. Landscape ; Verboeclrhoren, Cattle ; Vet-has, Little Painter; Verveer, Fishing Village ; Virginie, Breton Fishermen; W yld, Forest scene. _ A short distance W. of the Museum is the street called Cour (in Prince, on the site of a destroyed palace of the Counts of Flanders, in which Charles V. was born on 24 Feb. 1500. The Route 32.——Archeeological Museum; Library. 141 street should be followed as far as the exceedingly picturesque *old gateway of Le Rabat (D. 1), on the outside of . which two slabs record the heroic con- duct of the guilds who once defended the position. The planted Quay on the 1. leads to the ancient Be’guinage (see below). On the rt. is a stat. of the Ceinture Rly. Returning to the Museum, in the Rue Longue des Pierres, on the It, is the *Archeeological Museum (Adm. free on Sun, 10 to 1 and 2 to 4, Fri, 10 to 1; at other times apply to the concierge, No. 12A. Catalogue of 1886, 75 0.). Here, in a part of the old Augustinian convent, has been ar- ranged a most interesting collection of ancient furniture, weapons, architec- tural fragments; bronze bushel- measures (13th cent), locks, coins, seals; articles in bronze, glass, china, and terra~c0tta; church vestments, tapestries, banners, and looms; and a fine monumental brass of an abbot of St. Trond (1607). The various curiosities suspended from the roof should not be overlooked. The Conservatoire de Musique,Rue I-Iaut Port, gives musical instruction to numerous students, between the ages of 10 and 20. The University Library at the Athenée (B. 3) contains 100,000 vols. and 700 MSS., and is open daily from 9 A.M. to 8 P.M., except on Sun. and on 22 festivals. Adjacent is the well- kept Botanic Garden, with extensive hot-houses. On this site stood the Buudeloo Convent, now suppressed. The Grande Boucherie (C. 3), nowa parcel-office, contains a curious mural oil painting of 1445, reached by wooden steps leading to a platform. Adjoining the other end of the build- ing is the Cafe’ de la Potcnce, or Gal- lows-house, a small beer-shop, where may be seen on the wall some iron rings and other instruments of torture or execution. ' The *Marohé du Vendredi (Vrij- 142 dag Markt) is a large square sur- rounded by ancient houses (C. 3). The ceremonies of the inauguration of the Counts of Flanders were cele- brated. on this spot with a pomp and splendour hardly to be conceived at present. Here also was the rendez- vous of the “Trades Unions” of the Middle Ages, whenever a real or supposed breach of the privileges of their guilds or corporations on the parts of their rulers excited these turbulent spirits, “ ces tétes dures dc Flandres,” to rebellion. Here their standards were planted, around which they rallied in arms. On this spot, James van Artevelde, descended from one of the noblest families of Flanders, but called the Brewer of Ghent, because he had enrolled himself in the corporation of brewers to flatter the popular vanity by ranking himself among the people, at the head of his partisans, chiefly weavers, encountered the opposite faction of fullers, in a civic broil, with such bloodthirsty fury, that the presence of the Host, Which was brought out upon the spot to separate the combatants, was dis- regarded, and 1500 corpses of citizens slain by fellow-citizens were left on the square. The day was afterwards marked in the annals of the town as Evil Monday. It was in this place, 40 years after, that James’s son, Philip van ArteVelde, was-saluted Belieder van de Stat (Captain of the City), and received (1381) the oath of fidelity from his townsmcn, when called upon to lead them against. Louis of Maele. A bronze statue of James, by Dez‘igne Quyo, has been set up here. The story of Philip Van Artevelde is cruelly distorted in Henry Taylor’s drama. In the Marché du Vendredi, also, at a later period, under the Duke of Alva (who is said to have occupied an ancient house at one of the corners), were lighted the fires of the Inquisi- tion. Many thousands perished during those religious persecutions, which dispersed the best and most industri- ous citizens of Ghent over other lands, and struck a fatal blow at her com- mercial prosperity. Route 32.—Ghent : Marché du Vendredi ; At one end of Sect. II. the Marche‘, in the Place an Grand Canon, is an enormous cannon, 18 ft. long and 10% in circumference, named De dulle G-rz'ete, 0r Mad Margery; it is of hammered iron, hooped like a tub, was made in the days of Philip 10 Ben (1452) and was used at the siege of Oudenarde. It resembles the huge bombard in Edinburgh Castle, called Mons Meg, because cast at Mons. Crossing the Pont du Laitage from this point, 2 old houses of the 17th cent, with curious terra-cotta reliefs, will be found on the quay. Adjoining the Marche‘aux Poissons is the Place Ste. Phara'ilde, in one corner of which, at the entrance to the Rue do Monnaie (C. 2), still stands the old turreted gate- way, ealled the Oudeburg, or ’s Gra- vensteen (Count’s castle), a relic of the castle of the Counts of Flanders, founded by Baldwin Bras de Fer in 868. It consists of an old archway and turret (date 1180), close to which is an underground passage 2% m. lorg,1ead- ing to a point outside the city, intended probably for the admission of troops in case of a sudden insurrection. In the years 1338—9. the castle was the residence of Edward III. and his family ; and his Queen Philippa here gave birth to a son, called, from his birthplace, John of Gaunt. James van Artevelde, the Brewer of Ghent, was a faithful ally of Edward III., who used familiarly to call him “his dear gossip”; and the Queen Philippa stood godmother to his son Philip. It was at his suggestion that Edward assumed the title of King of France, and quartered the fleurs-de-lis with the arms of England, from which they were not removed till 1802. The English connection was in the end fatal to James, and led to his being killed by the citizens whom he had so often led as easily as sheep by his talents, courage, and eloquence. In 134% Edward III. crossed over to Sluis at the invitation of James, who, relying on his influence with the citizens, had promised to make him lord and heritor of Flanders. But this proposal was distasteful to the :32 Belgium. men of Ghent, who were unwilling to disinherit their natural lord ; and, dur- ing Van Artevelde’s absence to confer with Edward, the popular discontent against him, increased by rumours that, during his administration of the affairs of Flanders, he had secretly sent large sums of money out of the country to England, was excited in a high degree, and “ set them of Gaunt on fire.” “As he rode through the street he perceived that there was some new matter against him, for he saw such as were wont to make reverence to him as he came by turn their backs towards him and enter into their houses. Then he began to doubt, and as soon as he was alighted in his lodging he closed fast his doors, gates, and windows. This was scant done but all the street was full of men, and es- pecially those of the small crafts, who assailed his house both behind and be— fore.” Artevelde in vain addressed them from an upper window; the eloqutnt tongue was now little heeded in the frenzy of popular excitement. “ When Jacques saw that he could not ap- pease them, he drew in his head and closed the window, and so thought to steal out on the backside into a church that joined his house, but it was so broken that 400 persons were entered in, and finally there he was taken and slain without mercy, and one Thomas Denys gave him his death stroke.”—Froissart.' A metal shield with French inscrip- tion marks the site of Van Artcvelde’s house, No. 7, Kalanderberg, on the 1. between the Place d’Arnies and the Cathedral (C. 4). The scene of his murder was near a side-door opening from it into the lune called the Padden Hock (Toad’s Corner). Within the walls of the old Citadel (see below) stood the original Convent of St. Bavon and the chapel of St. Macarius, the ruins of which remain, and are among the oldest in Belgium (B. 4). Keys at No. 3, SE. corner of Rue de l’Abbaye (50 0.). The *pic- turesque and interesting ruins consist of a fine early-pointed entrance doorway; large ancient slab tombs, Route 32.—0€tadels : Grand Béguinage. 143 filled in with black and White enamel (lac); stone tombs of Baron van Clefi' and his wife (1400); a beautiful octagonal chapel in 2 stories, vaulted, and supported by round-arched piers With interrupted shafts on their inner face; one side of a Romanesque cloister; mosaic pavement in small squares of black and red terra-cotta; floor-tombs in the Crypte de la Vierge ; and some remains of 7th-cent. stone masonry, worked in zigzag. The monastery was founded in 610 on the site of a temple of Minerva, and the octagonal chapel. of St. Maearius consecrated in 1067. The modern Citadel, begun in 1822, finished in 1830, and surrendered in Oct. of that year by the Dutch gar- rison to the Belgians, is situated on Mont Blandin, the highland on which the western part of the city stands (E. 5, 6). It is one of the chain of fortresses defending the Belgian frontier, and commands the course of the Schelde and Lys. Ghent communicates with the sea by a great Canal which enters the Schelde at Terneuzen (Rte. 40), and gives the city all the advantages of a seaport. The numerous swinging bridges over the canals, which are constantly being turned round to admit the passage of barges, are a. source of considerable delay to the pedestrian in a hurry. The *Grand Béguinage, whose in- mates removed in 1875 to the NE. side of the town, near the Eecloo Rly. Stat. (A. 4), is one of the few nunneries not suppressed by Joseph IL, or swept away by the French Revolution. It is built in the Gothic style, of red brick, and is of great extent, with streets, squares, and gates surrounded by a wall and ditch. A tramway from St. Jacques Ch. leads close up to it. The Grand Béguinage was foun- ded in 123% by Countess Jeanne of Con- stantinople. In the church the traveller may have an opportunity of seeing the whole sisterhood assembled. They amount to more than (300, and many 144 Route 32.—Ghent: Theatres ; Zoological Garden. are persons of wealth and rank. The sight of so large an assemblage, all in black robes and White veils (the ancient Flemish faille, which they still retain), barely illuminated by the evening light and a few lamps, has a picturesque effect. The novices are distinguished by a different dress; and those who have just made their religious profession wear a wreath round their heads. The sisters live generally in separate houses. On the doors are inscribed the names, not of the tenant of the house, but of some saint who has been adopted as its protectress. This is the principal establishment of the order, which numbers in Belgium some {300 sisters. The Be’guines are bound by no vow; they may return into the world when- ever they please, and sisters have been known to quit the order after having entered it. They attend to the sick in the Beguinage, as nurses, and are constantly seen at the Hospital. Many seek employment in making Lace, which may be purchased of them, on moderate terms. The Petit Bég‘uinage, founded in 1234: by Margaret, sister of Countess Jeanne, is in the Rue des Violettes (C. 5), and has about 300 members. English Church in the Rue Digue de Brabant (C. 4); services on Sun. at 11 and 7. Also at St. John’s ch., close to St. Jacques (B. 3); services at 10.30 and 6.30; for children at 3.15. The chaplain has charge of the Sailors" Institute. The Promenades at Ghent are the Boulevards facing the Scheldc, and the double avenue of trees by the side of the Coupure, or canal, cut in 1758, to unite the Lys and the Bruges canal. Near the Ooupurc is the Penitentiary (Maison de Detention), an octagon building of vast extent (1772—1824). It is particularly well managed, and has served as a model for many others, not only in Europe, but in America. It is shown only to professional men, physicians and surgeons. Sect. II. The Casino, a handsome building by Roelandt, also near the Coupnre (E. 3), belongs to a horticultural society, and is surrounded by pleasant grounds (adin. granted to strangers at the lodge). It has a literary and scientific, as well as a social purpose. Splendid Flower Shows take place here twice a year. i The Palais de Justice (D. l) is another striking building by lioelandt. The ground~floor serves as the Ex- change; the upper chambers are appropriated as courts of justice. The Maison des Bateliers, or Skip- per House, No. 15, Quai aux Herbes (C, D. 3), was built by the Skipper’s Guild in 1531, and is perhaps the most picturesque house in Ghent. The insignia of the guild and the arms of Charles V. are carved on its gables (§ 24)- Statues have been erected, near the Rue de Flandre, to Licrain Buzuvens, who introduced cotton manufacture into Belgium; at the Porte de Bruges, to Joseph Gltisltlin, the celebrated mad-doctor; and near the Palais de Justice, to Metdepenningen the advocate. p The brothers Van Eyck lived anc painted their great picture on tlu site now occupied by the Cafe de: Arcades, E. of the Kouter, or Placr d‘Armes. In the SW. corner of tln Place (D. 4) stands the Theatre, buil by ltoelandt in lSiS, at a cost 0 100,0001. It is open only in winter. There is a Flemish Theatre near th rly. stat. (C. l). The Zoological Garden (D. 6) i worth a visit (adm.1fr.). Concert are given here. Clubs: La. Concorde, l'Um‘on, an Socie‘te‘ royale dos Chwurs. Admissio to any of them on the introduction ( a member.. Strangers should app] to the hotel-keeper. Military band i the Place d’Arines on Sun. and Wei evening in summer. ,, Belgium. The Nursery Gardens of L. van Houtte (A. 6) are the largest and best stoeked in Belgium. Many choice trees, shrubs, and flowers may be found here, and the gardens are a pleasant resort. Admission readily granted. The Post Office (D. 4) stands between the Palais de Justice and the Theatre. History.-—In the time of Charles V. Ghent was the largest and mOst populous city of Europe. It contained 35,000 houses and 175,000 Inhab.; and that Emperor used sportively to say that he could put all Paris into _ his glove (gant). About A.D. 1000, it fell permanently into the power of the Counts of Flanders, but in process of time the turbulent weavers, among whom a spirit of independence had early begun to work, rose up against their feudal superiors, and threw off their yoke, or obtained from them con- — cessions and immunities which formed the origin of popular rights in Europe. At length its burghcrs became so bold and warlike, that they were able to repulse from their walls 24,000 English, commanded by Edward I., in 1297 ; and contributed to beat the flower of the French chivalry at Courtray, in the “ Battle of Golden Spurs.” Their allegiance to the Counts of Flanders and Dukes of Burgundy was little more than nominal; since, whenever these Princes attempted to impose a tax which was unpopular, the great bell sounded the alarm, the citizens flew to arms, and slew or expelled from the town the officers appointed by their sovereign. It did not ,take long to equip an armament of burghers and artisans, who had weapons always at hand, and who repaired to the scene of action in their every-day or working dress, only distinguished by a badge, such as a white sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. Thus it happened that popular tumults were as frequent in the 14th and 15th cents. in Ghent as they have been in Paris in the 19th. On the other hand, it not unfrequently happened that the seigneur, aroused by some act of atrocity or insubordin- [Belgizmz, 1888.] Route 32.—Ghent: History. 1-15 ation, collected his forces together, and took signal and terrible vengeance. These courageous but undisciplined citizens then atoned for their audacity on the field of battle. ’ In 1400 the city of Ghent could summon 80,000 fighting men capable of bearing arms. The number of weavers then amounted to 40,000, and they alone could furnish 18,000 fighting men out of their corporation. A custom derived from that period still exists in the town :—a bell was rung at morning, noon and evening, to summon the weavers to their work and meals : while it tolled, the draw- bridges over the canals could not be raised for the passage of vessels; and other persons were even enjoined not to go out into the streets, for fear of interrupting the vast stream of popu— lation ; while children were carefully kept within doors, lest they should be trodden under foot by the passing multitude. The formidable and historically famous insurrection in the time of Charles V. originated in the discon- tent caused by his demand of an enormous subsidy from the citizens to carry on the war against France, which was soon fomented into open rebellion. Having put the city into a state of defence (1539), the citizens secretly tendered their allegiance to Francis I. He, however, not only declined the offer, but disclosed the secret to the Emperor. Charles was in Spain, but no sooner did this intelligence reach his ears than he decided upon putting down the treason in person. To save time he daringly accepted the permission offered by his rival Francis, to pass through the French territory. Great was the consternation in Ghent when it was announced that Charles, who was supposed to be many hundred miles off, had suddenly arrived before the city, and had surrounded it with a large army. Messengers were des- patched to sue for his forgiveness. but, without granting conditions, he demanded instant admittance within the walls. and entered in triumph. It was while deliberating on the 1. 146 punishment to be inflicted that the infamous Duke of Alva suggested the annihilation of the whole city. Charles, however, was satisfied with a cruel but less sweeping retribution; 1% of the ringleaders were beheaded, others were banished, and their goods forfeited. The city was declared guilty of lése-majesfe‘. and, in conse- quence, the magistrates and principal citizens, the chiefs of the guilds and of the corporation of weavers, were compelled to present themselves before Charles in black gowns, with bare heads, and with halters round their necks, and to demand pardon on their knees. He exacted as a further penalty that the magistrates should never appear in public without the halter. This, which was intended as a badge of ignominy, was afterwards converted into a decoration. The rope, in the course of years, became a rich silken cord, and was worn round the neck as an ornament, tied with a true lover’s knot in front. By the same sentence all the privileges of the city, together with the cannon and other arms of the oommonalty (com- 17231-118), of the trades, and of the weavers’ guild, were confiscated; and even the famous bell, called Roland, which was convicted of having played a very turbulent part with its tongue during the insurrection, was taken down from the Befi‘roi. As a further check to their turbu- lence, and for the entire restriction of their liberties, the Emperor laid the first stone of the old Citadel, out- side the Porto d’Anvers, now pulled down. This fortress served afterwards as a prison to Counts Egmont and Hoorn; and when the Flemings took up arms to throw off the Spanish yoke 1570, it was besieged by the townspeople under the Prince of Qrange. It was long and vigorously defended by the Spaniards. At last 3000 men of Ghent, wearing white shirts over their clothes to distinguish them, attempted to carry it by assault. The ladders, however, were too short, and they were compelled to retire with loss. The next morning, while they were preparing to renew the attack, Route 32.4— G’hem‘ : Sect. II the Spaniards sent to capitulate When at length terms were granted the besiegers were not a little as tonished to see the Senora Mondrago march out at the head of 150 men an a number of women and children, th sole remains of the garrison, when she had headed and commande: during the whole siege, in the absenc of her husband the governor. 0 Though fallen from its high estate Ghent does not display the sam signs of decay and listlessness a Bruges. In 1804, while united t France, it was ranked by Napoleon a the third manufacturing town in hi dominions, after Lyons and Boner Considerable manufactures are carrie on here. especially that of cotton. I 1801 a clever Fleming, named Lievai Bauwcns, brought over from Manehe: ter English Workmen and spinningjer nies. The weaving of linen and th making of lace also give employmer to many hands. The Treaty of Pear between Great Britain and th United States,~ which has bee maintained for 65 years, was signed a Ghent in 1815. History—Laeken. Steam tramway 7 times a day i 55 min. to (9 In. NAV.) Somergen starting from the Pont du Be’guinag (E. 2). The rly. proceeds to ~15 m. Melle J unct. Stat, on the mai line to Charleroi (Rte. 60), and 51 m. Schellehelle Junct. Stat. ft Termonde (Rte. 43). Here th Escaut is quitted, and the train rm SE. to 57 m. Alost Junct. Stat. (Rte. 59 a busy rly. centre. 62 m. Denderleeuw Junct. Stat for Ath (Rte. 59), and Oudenard (Rte. 35). 73 m. Jette J unct. Stat. Rly. N.“ to Termonde (Rte. 50). The roy: castle and Park are seen on the l. at 74: m. Laeken Stat, and the trai cuts through a deep embankment 1 reach l i Belgium. l 77 m. Brussels Northern Stat. (3.6). : Hotel omnibus uncertain. Cab, 1 fr.; '; luggage 10 c. for each heavy article. Good Bullet. The capital is described : in Rte. 33. ROUTE 33. I LONDONr TO BRUSSELS, BY CALAIS, LILLE, TOURNAI, ENGHIEN, AND HAL. This route will still be preferred by :_ persons to whom the shortest sea pas- ; sage is an object. Three services tdaily from London to Brussels in 9 or ;.10 hrs. Registered luggage is ex- .«amined at Brussels. The train awaits tthe steamer on Calais pier. Distance gliby rly., 135 m. GALAIS (14,000), a fortress of the :llst class, is situated in a very barren [and unpicturcsque district, with sand- ihills raised by the wind and sea on [the one side, and morasses on the bother. The harbour is approached by 2 marallel wooden piers, one of them mearly 2 m. long. E. of the town is a floating dock 660 yds. long, and a ibteamboat pier with 12 ft. of water. A Lighthouse of the 1st class, nearly 8190 ft. high, and visible 20 in. ofi', is erected near the outer ramparts ; and at the foot is the battery used for the itrial of ordnance. Calais is a manufacturing town of (some importance ; the bobbinet (tulle) wade flourishes in rivalry with that of England ; numerous mills have sprung pip; steam-engines are multiplying; f 2“ l Route 33.——Lomlon to Brussels. 147 and the inner ramparts have been re« moved, to make room for factories. Gloves and hats are also made here, and the herring-fishery and cod-fishery are extensively carried on from Calais along the E. coast of Scotland and Ice- land. VVater, which formerly was scarce, as throughout Artois generally, has been brought from the neighbour- hood of Guines. The Pier of Calais is an agreeable promenade. Upon it is a column raised to commemorate the return of Louis XVIII. to France, 24 Apr. 1814. The precise spot on the pavement Where his foot first trod, together with the inscription on the pedestal, are now in the Musée, Rue Royale, where are also a gallery of indifl'erent paintings, a valuable collection of coins, some interesting specimens of flint instru- ments from Escalles, the car and balloon in which Blanchard and J efl'ries crossed from Dover to Calais in 1785, &c. The building itself was the old Hotel Dessin, in which Sterne and Sir Walter Scott lodged. The Town Gate, close to the Station, leading from the seaside into the town, is that introduced by Hogarth into his well-known picture of the “ Gate of Calais.” It was built by Cardinal Richelieu in 1635. The painter was arrested for sketching it. No one needs to be reminded of the siege of Calais by Edward 111., which lasted 11 months. The fortress re- ’ mained in the hands of the English from 1337 to 1558, when it was taken by the Due de Guise, with an army of 30,000 men, from a forlorn garrison of 500. The Hotel Guise, at the end of Rue dc la Prison, was originally the guild- hall of the mayor and aldermen of the “ Wool Staple,” established here by Edward III. in 1303. It derives its present name from the Due de Guise, to whom it was given by Henri II. after his expulsion of the English. It has some vestiges of our Tudor architec- ture. Henry VIII. used to lodge in it. L 2 148 Issuing out of the Ely. Stat., and turning rt., through the Town Gate, we reach the Market Place, in which stands the picturesque Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). In front of it are busts of Eustace de St. Pierre n“ of Francis, 2nd Due de Guise; and of Cardinal de Richelieu, who built the citadel on the W. of the town: above it rises a belfry, containing the *chimes. The high tower at the side of the Hotel de Ville, called La Tour (le Guct, dates from 1214 ; it was used as a lighthouse until 1848, and now as a watch-tower for fires. The principal Church (Notre Dame) was erected at the time when the Eng- lish were masters of Calais. It is an English Gothic edifice of the l~tth cent., surmounted by a grey brick tower and short steeple. The fine marble high altar is the work of Adam Lottman ; the picture of the “ ASsump- tion " is by Gerard Seghers. The old town is built in the form of an oblong square, and was surrounded by old walls, now almost entirely levelled. Calais is now united to its large modern suburb of St. Pierre, and is encircled by a broad canal or ditch protected by earthworks. More than 2000 English are said to find employment in the factories here. Nearly 2000 of our countrymen reside partly for the purpose of economising, and English is much spoken. About 200,000 travellers pass through every year. English Churches :—St. George—— Rue des Prétres; service on Sundays, 11 A.M. and 3 RM. : Trinity Church—- Rue du Gaz, St. Pierre-lbz-Calais, 11 A.M. and 6 mt. Rly. to Arras and Paris—to Bou- logne, Amiens. and Paris, &e.—Sec Handbook for France. 1- The entire story of the heroic devotion of this hero is much doubted. See Levesque‘s ‘ llisteire de la France sous les cinque premiers Valois,’ p. 518. Route 33.— Calais to Brussels. Sect. II. CALAIS T0 Baussnrs, BY LILLE AND TOURNAI. 135 in. On leaving the Terminus on the Quai the line to Lille skirts the N.W angle of the Citadel. 2 in. St. Pierre léz Calais Stat, tht manufacturing suburb of Calai: (1739* Inhab.), more populous firm the town itself, and the great seat 0 the machine-made lace qrmnzg‘acture established by English capital sine 1819. Tulle is here produced to th value of 160,0001. a year. Man weavers from Nottingham are settle here. for whose use a Gothic ch. wa built i111862. Here also are timbe yards and metal foundries. The country about Calais and S Omer is like Holland, low and intei sec-ted by ditches and traversed h rows of pollard willows and osier useful for making l‘askets. It ‘ drained by the Canal de St. Ome which falls into the sea. at Calais: tl' tides are kept out by embankment The peasants, men as Well as wome: are frequently seen mounted on big pattens to avoid the mud. By ineai of the ditches or little canals runnii' along the sides of the fields, farm pr duce is conveyed in narrow boats, 1 that carts and horses are scarce used. 9 1n. Ardres Stat, 3 unimportant town. On the plain, 2 m. from Ardres a1 4: from Guisncs, a little to the. W. the road, was the Field of the Cloth Gold, the scene ofthe meeting betwe Henry VIII. and Francis 1. in 15f with their suites of 5696 persons a‘ 4325 horses. m. from t' 26 111. ST. OMER Stat. (22,000), a fir rate fortress on the river Aa, by men of which, and its surrounding marsh the place might be almost compleh isolated from the main land. The *Cathedral of Notre Dame, the upper end of the Rue St. Bert Belgium. is a fine building, showing the transi- tion from the round to the pointed style. It displays several peculiarities of construction worth notice, and con- tains some interesting tombs. Close to the Stat, at the opposite extremity of the same street, stand the imposing but not very picturesque re- mains of the famous Benedictine Abbey Ch. of St. Bertin, surrounded by a public garden. The fragment remaining consists of a stately tower(l431~l520), displaying ornaments of the florid Gothic in the mutilated panelling on its walls, and bits of tracery in its windows ; a small portion of the nave remains attached to it. The town is well seen from its top, but there is nothing else of interest in the view. \Vithin the walls of the Abbey of St. Bertin the feeble Childeric I[I., the last Merovingian Frankish king, ended his days in 755; here also. Thomas a. Becket sought refuge when a fugitive from England. The other objects of interest at St. Omer are the churches of St. Sepulchre (14th cent.) and of St. Denis; the modern Hetel de Ville ; the Artillery Arsenal, one of the most remarkable in the N. of France; the Museum in the Hétel du Btllliage, on the Grande Place ; the Lycée containing the Public Library. A Seminary for the education of English and Irish Roman Catholics exists here: it has replaced the Jesuits’ College founded by Father Parsons for the education of English- men. Daniel O’Connell was brought up here for the priesthood; and several of the conspirators engaged in the Gunpowder Plot were pupils of the same school. There are only a small number of students at present. A large military hospital occupies the site of the convent in which Dr. Alban Butler, author of ‘Lives of the Saints,’ was buried (1773). Several English reside here, principally for purposes of education. English Chapel, Rue du Bon Pasteur. Service on Sunday, 11 and 3. 39 m. Hazebrouck J unct. Stat. Route 33.—quebrouck—Lz‘lle. 149 (Buffet). Rly. S. to Amiens, N. to Dunkirk, N.E. to Ypres (Rte. 36). 55 m. Armentiéres J unct. Stat, a town on the Lys of 12,000 Inhab., for the most part weavers. English Church Service on Sundays. Rly. N.E. to Comines (Rte. 41). 67 m. LILLE Junct. Stat. Buffet. Lille (Flem. Ifzjssel), chief town of the Dept. du Nord, and former capital of French Flanders, with a Pop. ex- ceeding 180,000, is important both as a fortress of the first order, forming the central point of the defence of France on her N. frontier, and as a populous and industrious manufactur- ing town, ranking fifth among the cities of France. It was captured from the Spaniards by Louis XIV. in 1667, and at different periods and under different masters has stood 7 dis- tinct sieges ; perhaps the most remark- able being that by the allied armies of Marlborough and Eugéne, in 1708, of three months’ duration, during which the war was not merely waged above ground, but the most bloody combats were fought below the surface between the miners of the opposite armies, each endeavouring to countermine the enemy’s galleries. It was finally re- stored to France by the treaty of Utrecht in 1715. Few cities have undergone greater improvements of late years than Lille. To include its fauoourgs the Fortifi- cations on the S. side have been pulled down, and handsome streets and Boulevards erected on their sites, whilst a new system of fortified lines 4: m. in circuit has been constructed. From the Rly. Stat. (the stone facade of which was formerly the front of the Gare du Nord at Paris, but was removed hither in 1863), the Rue de la Gare leads past the Theatre to the *Bourse (M.H.), a richly ornamented building of brick and stone in the Spanish style, erected in 1652. In the court is a bronze statue of Napoleon I., made out of cannon taken at Aus- terlitz. The Bourse has one front to the Grande Place, in the centre of which 150 rises a granite column surmounted by an allegorical figure, in memory of the citizens who fell during the 9 days’ bombardment of the town in 1792 by the Austrians under the Duke of Saxe- Coburg, who was compelled to raise the siege. Leaving the Grande Place at the S. corner, a short street leads to the H. de Ville or Mairie, mostly rebuilt in 1846, but retaining portions of 15th cent. At the N .W. angle still stand the brick Gothic chapel and towers, which were parts of an ancient palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, built by J ean-sans—Peur, and inhabited by the Emp. Charles V. In it is the Coun- cil chamber (Salle da Conclave), the walls of which are decorated with paintings by Arnold dc Vuez, 1726. The second floor is appropriated to a *Picture Gallery (open daily, 10 to 4, in summer 10 to 5. Tues. 2 to l or 5. Catalogue, 1 fr. 25 c.). The paint- ings occupy 12 rooms, arranged for the most part according to their respective schools. Bassano, Christ and the Money- changcrs ; wanting in dignity. Bent, Sunset in Italy. Brueghel, Paying tithes. Camphuysen, *Two horsemen in a wood. Chardin, The learned Ape. Costa (school of), Young girl. Cayp, Portrait of a. young lady. Dirk Hals, Backgammon players. Eclrhout, Boy’s portrait, aged 12. Ghz'rIan-dajo (school of), *Yirgin and Child, with sweet-briar. Goya, Scene at an execution. Gog/en (J. van), River scene. Greuze, Cupid and Psyche. Hals, *Girl in a white cap, laugh- ing. Heist (Bart. van der), *Family group—Male and female portrait. Holbein, Family of the painter ; an old copy of the original at Basel. Hooch (P. de), Lady and servant. Keyser (T. de), Family group, in a landscape. Le Nam, Interior, with Children. Neer (Aart van der), Moonlight scene. Route 33.——L2’lle : Picture Gallery. Sect. II. Ostade (Adrian van), Children at dinner. Ostade (J. van), Stable. Rubens, Descent from the Cross.— *‘Virgin and Child, with St. Francis. Stem, Family party. ——Peasants dancing. Stuerbout, The symbolic Fountain. Tem'ers, *Temptation of St. An- thony. Tilborgh, Village Festival. Tintoretto, Portrait. Van Dg/clr, Assumption and *Crnci- fixion ; Maria. dc’ Medici. Velde (\V. van de), Calm Sea.— *Sea-Picce, with numerous ships. Vermeer (of Delft), Kitchen, with Family group. li’ynants, Hawking Party. Among the modern» paintings may be noticed Baadry, Fallen Vestal; Coins, Pope Gregory and the Anglo- Saxon slaves; Coninelr, *The Test; Fog/en, Boy and Girl kissing: Hoec- Irert,Snnday in Lapland; Nezu'ille, Scouts in the Crimea. The celebrated collection of *Draw- ings by Old Masters was bequeathed to the town by a citizen artist, M. “Tom, in 1831. Catalogue, 1 fr. 75 c. It in- cludes 68 by Raphael : 197 by Michael Angelo, chiefly architectural; 15 by Francia; 8 by Titian (Sketches for his Peter Martyr) ; 3 by L. da l'z'ncz', &c., &c. The closed cases will be opened on application. Notice also a *Girl’s Head in war. of the most delicate and refined features, with terra-cotta drapery, probably Roman, and a few reliefs, including the Daughter of Herodias, by Donatello. The Public Library contains up- wards of 40,000 vols. and 500 M88. Returning across the Crande Place, passing the end of the line Ids-(lacr— moisv, in which are Very handsome shops, and proceeding N. near the Place St. Martin, is the Church of Notre Dame de la Treille, an ambitious early-Gothic building, begun in 1855 by Messrs. Clntton d: Burges, but permanently roofed in before it was completed. a Mfg“ ‘,\ ‘L ) .\ 1 ’ L334 (M5 TOURNAI 3/3 of I Mile ,4 0 C Chcmin dc Cmmmo Reference a.Hotel Prim? \ 4L0. Ru; 13 “Unnrl 1-. I: \\r:] nuaquo I'Arsen?‘ Quai dé '1'. .1.‘ hum. 4 1mm .1 Am...” b n Imperafrzcr D. 5. c. duCommcrce D. 4. Infantry d. ” Bel/Pawn: C. 3. , Barracks I.Caz‘hedral 0.4. 9. C11.S..\"/'rolas C.3.i 2. C11. SJarques C.4.| Belfry _ 0.4 J 6 3. n Aladelez'nu B.4.ll.7‘lzen1re 0.5.[ 4. n S.Ougntiu D.5.'|2. J/usmtm D.5.; 5. n . [at E.4.13.Redmnph'um'sls C.3.l 6. n 5.877}? 5.3.‘I4P05f0ff161 [3.4.E 7. y, Slam F.3. l5.Lz'jI[1rar D.4.3 '1 8. n Crut'siers F. 2.: I6. Tom 111‘)”er ”1.0.24; / ”71”," {.7 Roumllxc. H A To face p. 151. B Belgium . A few min. W. of this is the Espla- nade, a handsome wide promenade, planted with trees, and having at its N. extremity the Statue of Gen. Ne‘grier, killed in the socialist revolt of June 1848, at Paris, in putting down the insurgents. Passing S. down the Esplanade, a road to the rt. leads to the Citadel, a masterpiece of the skill of Vauban, who was governor of Lille for many years. A broad avenue, Boulevard de la Liberte', stretches across the town from the citadel, passing near the post- office and the English ch. In the Place de la Re’publiquc stands the im- posing Prefecture. At the end of the Rue de Paris, and near the Rly. Stat., is the handsome Church of St. Maurice, in the Gothic style of the 16th cent, resting on slen- der piers, with double aisles of the same height as the nave. An Eng. Church was built in 1870 in the Rue l’Yderic. The French Prat. Ch. is in the Rue Jeanne d’Arc. The chief manufacture is that of flax, which is extensively grown in the vicinity, and is spun into ordinary thread, and twisted to form the kind called Lille thread, by old-fashioned machines moved by the hand. In the spinning of cotton Lille has become a rival of Manchester and Roucn. The extraction of oils from rape or colza and the seeds of poppies, linseed, &c., and the manufacture of sugar from beetrOot are very important. Rly. N.W. to Ypres (Rte. 41); NE. to Mouscron (Rte. 78); SE. to Valen- eiennes; S. to Douai, for Paris. The line to Tournai and Brussels proceeds E. by 71 in. Ascq Junct. Stat. (Rte. 78). 4 in. SE. is Boum'nes, wh ere the French king, Philip Augustus. defeated the emperor, Otho IV., and his English and Flemish allies, in 1214. 7;") in. Baisieux Stat. French Cus- tom house (Douane) and frontier. ‘ ’ROute 33.+—’-Ascq—Tournaz'. I51 78 m. Blandain Stat. Belgian fron- tier and Custom-house. 83 m. TOURNAI (Flem. DOORNIJK) J nnct. Stat. A town of 35,000 Inhab., on the Schelde (Fr. Escaut), whose banks are faced with masonry, so as to contract the river into a navigable channel, and form handsome Quays on each side.’ It is a place of some manufacturing industry. The work- men labour chiefly at home, not in large factories, which gives the town a more cheerful character. The carpets, commonly called Brussels, come in fact from Tournai ; the art of weaving them was brought hither, according to tradition, from the East by Flemings, who served in the Crusades, and learned it from the Saracens. Stock- ings and fai‘ence are also largely manufactured here. The Rly. Stat. is a handsome building of 1879, in the style of the Flemish Renaissance. Tournai, the Roman Tornacum or Civitas Nerviorum mentioned by Caesar in the ‘Commentaries,’ became in the 5th cent. the seat of the Merovingian Frankish kings; Childeric I. died here; Clovis was born and resided here. It has now the aspect of a modern town. From the triangular Grande Place the Cathedral and belfry have a fine effect. Its fortifications have been turned into public walks since 1830. It has endured many sieges from English, French, and Spaniards. The most memorable, per- haps, was that of 1581. by the Prince of Par-ma, when the defence was con- ducted by a woman, Christine, Princess d’Epinoy, of the noble family of Lalaing. She is said to have united the skill of a prudent general with the most intrepid bravery. Though wounded in the arm, she refused to quit the ramparts, and at length only consented to capitulate when three- fourths of her garrison had fallen around her. A bronze’ Statue, by Dutrieux, was erected to her memory in 1863, on the Grande Place. Henry VIII. took Tournai in 1513, and bestowed the see on his favourite, Wolsey, who, bribed by the offer of Francis L’s interest to obtain for him 152 the papacy, not only yielded up the bishopric, but induced his master to sell the town to the French King in 1518. In 1525 it was ceded to Spain, but in 1668 passed back to France, and in 1713 to Austria, being finally assigned to the Netherlands by the Treaty of Aachen in 1748. The *Cathedral, the finest Roman- esque building in Belgium, is con- spicuous from all sides with its 5 stately towers. The first Church. founded by Childerie I., whose capital Tournai was, was destroyed by the Normans in 882. Much of the ex- isting building is as old as the 11th cent. The \V. front has been dis- figured by various alterations; a groined porch in the Pointed style extends the whole length of the front, and above it a large wheel-window has been introduced. The main door- way is flanked by rows of Saints and has-reliefs. The N. and S. portals, adjoining the transepts, enriched with antique sculptures, deserve notice. The nave has a fine massive range of arches, surmounted by triforium, gallery of nearly equal height, and elem-story in the same style. The transepts, built about 1116, terminate in apses, the most beautiful feature of the ch. “Notwithstanding a certain rudeness of detail, they are certainly the finest productions of their age. and as mag- nificent a piece of architecture as can be conceived. The choir, 110 ft. high, now bound together by iron ties, was dedicated 1338; and though display- ing a certain beauty of proportion, and the most undoubted daring of construction, its efi'eet is frail and weak. It was found necessary to double the thickness of the piers after they were erected.”—Fergusson’s Architecture. The rood-screen (1566) is an incongruous composition, with reliefs of the Passion, &c., surmounted by a statue of St. Michael. The painted glass of the choir is modem, by Capronnier; that of the transept dates from 1165. Close to the high altar is placed the Gothic shrine of St. Eleutheiius (Bp. of Tournai in the 5th cent), wrought in silver gilt, Route 33.—Tournai : Cathedral ; Sect. II. of rich Gothic workmanship (1247), adorned with precious stones, and sur‘ rounded by figures of the 12 Apostles. At the first French revolution this church was not only stripped of its revenues, but pillaged and defaced. The shrine escaped through the zeal of a citizen of the town, who buried it. Opposite is that of St. Piat (13th cent). In a. chapel close by there is a painting by Rubens, the Souls in Pur- gatory, in the master’s characteristic style. On the N. side of the choir is one of the earliest pictures of Gallait (d. 1887), Christ giving Sight to the Blind, and a series by Blondeel, representing the Anunciation. &c. Other pictures are the Crucifixion, by Jordaens; Visitation and Ado- ration of the Shepherds, attributed to Lucas van Lcyden; and Rais- ing of Lazarus, by Pourbus. The oval Sacristy contains a small ivory Crucifix of the 16th cent. with the two Maries, by Duqucsnoy, a small ivory diptych of the 11th cent, and a 13th-cent. missal, with tapestries and gold-thread embroideries of the 15th and 16th cent. The Treasury has a reliquary of the 9th cent. in the form of a Greek cress, jewelled, and valued at a million francs; an ivory casket covered with statuettes (9th cent); a jewelled pectoral cross of similar date; and a silver gilt jewalled mon- strance of 1693. In the bishop’s palace is the mantle of the. Empr. Charles V., worn at the 20th Chapter of the Golden Fleece, held in this church in 1531; and an embroidered silk ehasuble of St. Thomas a Becket, not readily shown. The Library, W. of the Cathedral, contains many valuable early books and MSS, and a Psalter used by Henry VIII. Open on Sun, Mon, “'ed., and Fri., 11 to 1. King Childcric I., the father of Clovis, died in 482, and was buried in the Church of St. Brice (12th cent), on the rt. bank of the Schelde. In his coffin were found (1655) a chasse of gold containing his head, still pre- served here, and many other curiosities now deposited in the Bibliothcque Belgium . Nationale, at Paris; among them the “ Golden Bees,” with which his royal robes are supposed to have been studded. They were, in consequence, adopted by Buonaparte in his corona- tion, in preference to the flaws de US, as symbols of the‘imperial dignity. The ch. has been much modernised, but the chancel and its aisles retain their early-pointed arches and vault- ing. In the sacristy, and over the door leading to it, are some curious tapestries discovered in a lumber—room under the W. tower in 1880. St. Quentin’s, in the Grande Place, is an ancient Church in the transition style from round to pointed. The front was rebuilt in 1845. On the rt. wall are 2 large pictures rcl'ircsenting the redemption of captives by Trini- tarians, with a short history of the Order. *St. Jacques is a splendid ch. in the purest early-pointed style, with nave, aisles, triforium, clerestory, shallow transepts, and beautiful pen- tagonal apse. The tower and external arcade are noteworthy. The Ch. of St. M. Magdalene is of similar date, and also interesting, with clerestory of basilica form, and no triforium. The organ loft is panelled with 4 wood carvings of the saint’s life, and a fifth in which she is curiously mistaken for Mary the sister of Martha. ()n the wall of the N. aisle are two gilded stone reliefs; and the baptistery, at the end of the S. aisle, has handsome gates of wrought iron. St. Nicolas has an early-pointed polygonal apse, and a good little groined chapel on the 1. At the end of the rt. aisle is the chapel of Henry "111., with the royal arms on a chair. This ch. was included in the vast fortress built by that monarch in 1513. the only relic of which is the round Tour (163 Anglais. St. Piat is a fine ch. externally of the 13th and 14thcent., with an earlier tower, and a lofty nave of pointed arches resting on Square massive piers. OppOsite, towards the E., is a fine specimen of domestic architecture. Route 33.~—St. Quentin’s: St. Piat. 158 St. Joseph, a Redemptorist ch. of 1861, is an unpretending and tasteful imitation of a Romanesque basilica. At the end of the Grande Place is the Befi‘roi, the oldest in Belgium, a fine tower (1190—1391), restored in 1852, in a manner wholly out of keep- ing with the original design. The spire is modern. Ascent, 25 c.; 256 steps; fine view.‘ The Priory of St. Martin, in a garden-park to the SJV. ot' the town, is converted into an H6te1 de Ville. In it are a few modern paintings, including the Dead Bodies of Eglnont and Horn, by Gallaz’t, a native of Tournai (1810—1887). The best of the older pictures is a small bust of St. Donatian. The custodian (50 c.) shows two curious engravings, whose outline represents the profile of some historical characters. Here also are several valuable works in ivory, metal, porcelain, and bronze. Close to the H. de Ville is a Museum of Natural History. There are some interesting specimens of domestic architecture in Tournai, the best of which will be found in the Rue Barre St. Brice, Rue des Manx, and Rue de Paris. The Font des Trous (13th cent.), of three pointed arches, flanked by mas- sive towers, is highly pietulesque. Close by is the Square de la Reine, a prettily laid-out public garden. S. of the bridge, on the 1. bank of the Scheldc, is a marble statue of the Belgian statesman and naturalist, Du Mortier (1797—1878). The new build- ing S. of the statue in the Grande Place, on the site of the old Cloth Hall, which fell down in 1881, is in— tended to serve as a Town Museum. Perkin War-beck, the pretender to the throne of Henry VIL, who gave himself out as one of the princes sup- posed to have been murdered in the Town, was, by his own confession, the son of a Jew of Tournai. Here also was born in 1400 the great painter, Roger van der Weyden. 4 in. N. is Mt. St. Aubert, which, though only 300 ft. high, commands an extensive view. The train may 154 be taken to (t m.) Obigics Stat, on the rly. to Renaix (Rte. 37), whence the hill is about a mile distant on the E. [The valley of the Schelde around Tournai is very fertile, producing much tern. Lime is found in abundance, and exported far and wide. A rly. threads the valley to (2 m.) Vaulx Stat., famous for its stone Quarries. Here is a square structure With turrets in the corners, said to be of Roman origin, probably of the 11th 61“ 12th cent. 7 m. Antoing Junet. Stat, with the picturesque ruins of an ancient *castle, including a lofty keep tower, whose top commands the best view of the battle—field. It belongs to the Prince de Ligne, and served as headquarters for Louis XV. in the battle mentioned below. In the Church are some curious monuments in black stone with efligies of Counts of Melun. Hence one line continues 8., follow~ ihg the river. and cressing the Fr. fi‘ontier to (17 In.) St. Amend Stat. (lite. 78); while another runs SE. to (12 m.) Pe‘rzurel: (rly. S. to Vieux Condé for Valenciennes), and (17 In.) Blaton Junct. Stat. (lite. 39). On the latter line, to the 1., a. mile be- ond Antoiug, lies the battle-field of untenoy, where the English under the Duke of Cumberland, with the Dutch and Austrians, were defeated in 1715 by the. French under Marshal Saxe, who was at the time so ill as to be unable to sit on horseback or to ivear armour, and was therefore carried in a litter. The fortune of the day Was mainly decided by the Irish but- talions in the pay of France] From Tournai a. branch line runs also 8.1V. to Douui, crOSsing the Bel- 'ian frontier 2 m. beyond (8 111.) Names tat. 95 m. Leuze Junet. Stat. A town of 5700 Iuhab. on the Donder. The fly. from Ghent to Mons (Rte. 30) crosses our line here. 102 m. Ath Junct. Stat. (9100), a flourishing manufacturing town on Route 33.—Antoing—Enghien. Sect. I] the Dender. It is now dismantled but was a fortress upon which Vau ban employed his utmost skill, am its works were strengthened afte: 1815. The principal buildings are tlu Hdtel de Ville (1600), and the Charo} of St. Julz'cn, founded in 1393, de stroycd by lightning, except its E end, in 1817, and since rebuilt, bin without its tall steeple. The most ancient monument in the town is z tower called Tour du Burbant, whict probably dates from 1150. Rly. N.E. to Denderleeuw, SE. t( Jurbise (Rte. 59); S. to St. Ghislain SW. to Blaton (Rte. 39). 111 m. Bassilly Junet. Stat. 1V. to Lessines (Rte. 37). RI y. 117 m. Enghien (Flemish, Edz'ngen] J unct. Stat. (1000), an ancient posses- sion of the houses of Luxemburg and Bourbon, but sold by Henry IV., King of France, to the Count of Arenberg, in 1607, and still in the possession 0t his family. The chateau was destroyed at the French Revolution; but the beautiful park and gardens deserve notice. They served, it is said, as a model for the famous gardens of ,Versailles, and are laid out in the same formal style, with avenues, temples, statues, canals, basins, a. fine conservatory, Sic. Seven avenues of beech and horse-chestnuts diverge from a temple in the park. Visitors are admitted daily, except between 12 and 1, but must be accom- panied by a gardener. Fee, 1 to 5 frs., according to the time employed and the number of the party. Entrance close to the SE. corner of the ch. 200 yds. N. of the ch. is a small Capuchin Convent, the chapel of which (closed from 12 to ‘2) contains at the 1st altar rt. a very beautiful *alabaster monument to Guillaume do Croye, abp. of Toledo (1521), with statues of the -1 Latin doctors, and an allegorical subject above the effigy. The tomb itself is in a vault below. The painted figures on the walls re- present the gencalogy of the prelate. :JKLIFL “if I. V :5 7 MI my - “3 mm‘fi"; WM“ jm‘ ,-, «a _‘ x wiHn“ .1 x {mm “I“ l .3. '.' ‘-‘xr'-i.\'§ (9 ' .L E 33.7“.an1 53' i 5} $1933 51,35! -"We1]er i HdedecEJ. 6 E anm C 4 th‘andH. ..B.4. . RAM ...... égv 1,111., 133 _ M. w K .. ‘ , , , . . \ . r rt , _ _, . E . a, _ , .t _ . _ _. _ _ \ ,. . . ., _ ¥ _ E . . \ . ‘ . _ .. , , r ., , vl . ¥ ., , , » W c a N ,. , . , .V a , 3 \ , A , , . . . r . a: . x .m , , , ., ,, ~ , Em . . w , , , \ , . _ . . . x E . , . . _. _. E E . . ., Z ; . l , ‘ . v .. _ _ ._ .r f X . _. h _ , _. E n V y . _ . .m &z&3a&a L. aazofiatm $13 . c ccBBCBC C Eccacnn 33E Mrnmawfiw \ .a dM D E V t _ 7,. 6 {E $3; w v C .u CERNB E BRUSSELS w. Ioudon.-John lenyy..:llbaruzr12 SD Belgium 1 Outside the town on the W. 1116 two large in‘ipor t’ant buildings of red b1 lck ' on the 1. a College. and on the rt. 11 Hospital Rly. N. W. to Ghent, S. E to Charleroi (lyttc. 60). 126 111. Hal Junct. Stat. (10,000), on the Senne and the Canal de Cliarleroi. The church of Notre Dame (formerly St. Martin) is a rich Gothic edifice (13411—1409), containing a chapel resorted to by pilgrims on account of a black miracle-working image of the Virgin, which had acquired enolmous wealth fiom the oflelings of pious devotees, including gold plate and other gifts from Charles V., Maximilian 1., Pope Julius II., Henry VIII., &c., carried 011' by the French in 179-1. In a recess under the tower, railed 011', are 33 cannon- balls, which, having been aimed at the church during the bombardment of 9 and 10 July, 1580, were caught by the Virgin in 111-1 lobe. The Ilc'qh Allm has 11 *1111 edos of alabaster can ed by Mono, a native artist, in thcbest style of the Renaissance (1533) : St. Martin dividing his cloak, the 7 Sacraments, admirable as works of art, and the Evangelists Mark and Luke above. SS. Matthew and John, together with a figure of a pelican, have been quite rec'ently permanently displaced, to make way for a worthlessimage of the Virgin, which distigurcs the summit. In the chapel at the end of the aisle is a tiny black etligy of Joachim. Dauphin of France, son of Louis XI. (1160). The little figure is barbarous- ly hidden by a wretched votive picture, on the rt. at the entrance to the chapel. In the octagon buptistcry is a hand- somefont of brass, covered by a spire studded with statuettes and groups of the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, George, llubert, and hauling dona- trix. It was cast at Tournai in 1446, by an artist named Lefehvre. The sueristy contains old votive plate, a reliquary of Louis XI. in silver gilt, with a thorn of the Cross, corered with (lothic inscriptions; a silver mon- stranee given by lleiiry VIII. on the Route 33.—Hal—-Brussels. 155 capture of Tournai, and a chalice pre- sented by Pius Hi. The E. portal has a double door of wood and wrought iron, embossed With large acorns, and above it a good 15th- cent. statue of the Virgin and Child. Of similar date is the bronze lectcrn, representing an eagle trampling on a dragon. The triforium is returned in an unusual manner along the W. 0nd of the building. The Railway runs side by side with the Canal de Charleroi, and sometimes below its level. There are many out- tings on this line. 131 m. Ruysbroeck Stat, birthplace of Wm. dc Rubruquis (dc Buys- broeck), a monk sent by St. Louis to the Khan of Tartary, who has left an account of his travels; also of the architect of the tower of Brussels town-hall. 133 in. Forest Stat. Here the Senne is crossed, and the rly. cuts through the Boulevards (view of Porto de 11:11 011 the rt.), to reach 135 in. BRUSSELS (Midi) Southern Stat. (B. l). Cab, 1 fr.; 10 c. each portmantcau. Good Buffet. The night express from Calais does not stop here, but goes on to the Station du Nord. INDEX. 151131; Academy at l inc Aits . 1 1 . 159 — of Modern l’aintinws . . 166 A]l1’-'c\cite . . . . . 1 172 Andellccht . . . . . 173 Arenbeig Colle1t1on . . . . 16'! Banque \‘ationalc . . . . . 158 Beguinage . . . . . 163 B11lia1d, Statue of. . . 1 . 158 Blind \sHum . o . c o 159 liois de la Cambre . . . 1 1 172 lioilsfort . . . . 1 . 172 Botanic Garden . . . 1 . 172 liolnse . . , a c 1 160 lhitish t'enutery . . 1 . . 173 lirmnl- llllis . 1 . . . . 159 Cambre, Abbey . . . . . 172 1.1r1u1l1te Ch. . . . . . 1159 01111111111 . . . . . 173 ('llluliolog) of lhusscls . . . . 171 1‘o1kerill,\1.11ueof . . . 160 Coins and Medals . . . . . 159 t‘olunin of the Congress . . . . 159 Conservatoire de Musique . . . 157 thicket-(Ground . . . . . 172 156 Route Eta—Brussels : (‘nreghem . . Cuylenburg, Site of . Egmont and Horn, Statues of Ev ere . . . . Exchange Expiation. Chapel of the. Flemish M111 ket . School . — Theatre . Forest of Soignies . Galleries and Arcades . Godfrey de Bouillon, Statue of t‘rlande Place . . . G119113,Pttlt1011 of the . Guild lIouses. . . llalles Centrales . . Hospice Pacheco . . Hospital 01 St. John . lxelh s . . . Jesuit Ch. . . . King's Palace . Lace . . Lac-ken, Palace and Ch. of Leopold 1. Monument to L’Horticulture 111tcrnationale Library of the Academy. , Royal Madeleine, Ch. of the Maison du Roi . Mannikin Fountain. Mausoleum, Royal. . . Mint . . . Musée Comn1e1c1al . Communal. . . ltavestein . . . -——— \colail e . . . — -— W ivllz . Museum of C1sts (A1cl1itect1ne) * (Figures) . Museum of Natural Hist01 y Musical Instruments N. D. de la Cnapelle . . N D. dos Victoires . . Obsei vatory Palace of the Count of Flande1s Pal 11s d'A1t-11berg.. de Justice . de'la Nation - des Beanx Arts Ducal .‘ .‘ . lo.yal . . Parc Leopold . . . Park . ‘ .' . Petits Cal‘mes .' . Picture (villery , Ancient. “—4, Modem . Place de~“\Ia1tyrs .‘ Place Royale .‘ . Porre de Hal. . Rouppe l‘buntain . Rue d’Assaut. . Rue de Fer . . St. Antoine . . St. Catharine . . Ste. Gudnle . . St. Jacques . . St Joseph. . Salles dcs Ventes . Schaerbeek, Chef . School Museum . .s...ouu-- -..-o..o..u ....c....-....-.-.-..u...- ............ . 1'59 c..¢o.... 168 158 158 1137 168 l57 170 General VDesaription ; Sect. I] PAG Somzée Collection . . . . . 1'1 Statues, Public . . . . 0 1E Synagngne . . . . . . 5 Technical School . . . . . 1( Theatre, Flemish . . . . . It Tir National . . . . . . 17 Town Hall . . . . . 15 University . . . . . . 5 Vauxhall Gardens . . . . . 5 Wicrtz Museum . . . . . 1t I.—GENER;\L DESCRIPTION, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS. BRUSSELS, the capital of the king dom of Belgium, and seat of goverr ment and of the Chambers, 011 th small river Scnne and the lVillebroec canal, has 190,000 Inhab, or with it suburbs 450,000. It is divided int the upper and lower towns, the uppe being the most fashionable an healthy quarter. It contains th King’s palace, the Chambers, Palal de Justice, and many large hotel; The lower town has some picturesqu buildings, the residences in form( times of the Brabant noblesse. T11 Maiket Place, 11 ith its beautih Hotel de Ville, supported by man gabled halls of old Guilds, is unri galled as a specimen of Gothic spler dour in civic edifices. The Quartie Leopold. containing some fine street; is the fashionable part of the tom and the principal resort of the Er glish residents, who number abor 2000. Recent improvements have ex tended to the Old Town as well as t the Upper. Both are encircled an traversed from end to end by wid and handsome Boulevards, under th names Avenue and Rue du Midi, an Rue N euve. Nearly parallel wit these runs the B. Anspach, dividin at the temporary Post ()fiice into I de la Senne, where that river ha been bridged over for more than mile, and B. du Nord. These offer direct passage 1% 111. long between th N. andS. stations. Midway bctwee these two highways stands the Bouts: a noble modem edifice placed in th I elgium. .. heart of the city. In the Upper Town many fine buildings adorn the Rue de la Régence, which terminates in the colossal Palais de Justice. The charming Avenue de Louise, named after the late queen, and leading to Bois de la. Cambrc, is studded with handsome houses. ‘ French is the prevailing language, though the majority of the lower orders speak only Flemish. The latter tongue, however, is far from becoming obsolete, even among the higher classes, and its cultivation is enforced in all the governmental Schools. Many points of similarity between Brussels and the French capital have earned for it the nick- name of Paris on a small. scale; and it has no doubt been deemed ad- visable, for political reasons, to retain at least the important characteristic of a national language. The Place Royele is the central point in the upper town, at the tOp of the Rue Montague de la Uour. Here stands the Ch. of St. Jacques sur Caudenberg (axons frigi- dus), on the site of a 13th-ccut. conventnal ch., with a Corinthian portico, and in front of it an *eqnes- trian statue (by Simonis) of Godfrey do Bouillon, raising the standard for .the 1st Crusade. On one side of this Place is the Park; from the opposite side runs Rue dc Ia li’eyenee, a tine avenue, in which stand the l’alais dcs Brain'- Arts, with at pillars of Scotch granite in front ; the Conservatoire de Musique. with wings, red brick and stone; the handsome Jewish Synagogue, and the old Ch. of N. D. dcs l'ictoircs. At the end of this street rises the vast ‘Palais de Justice, commenced in 1806, from designs by l’ocluert, a native of Brussels, who did not live to see its completion. It cost upwards of 2,000,000!., and is the largest editiee ot' the present century. (Open to visitors on week days, 9 to 4; atten- dant, 1 to 2 fr.) The uneven nature of the ground involved enormous sub- Route 33.—Place Royale ; King’s Palace. 157 structions, best viewed from the W. side. The ground-plan measures nearly 200 yds. each way, and the extreme height is 400 it. above the pavement. The design is noble and well-expressed. and the general result imposing; but the main facade ex- hibits the fault of an indiscriminate mixture of columns and pilasters. The pilasters dwarf the columns, and the projecting wings look as if they ought to be crowned with a tower or cupola. The central hall, or Salle des I'as perdus, is finely proportioned, and opens into the dome. The Library, and several of the smaller rooms, are magnificently fitted up, some of them being lined with marble, and furnished with ebony chairs. Besides the central hall, the palace contains 27 large and 2-15 smaller rooms, together with 8 courtyards, mostly on different levels, to suit the uneven disposition of the ground, and displaying much ingenuity of treat- ment. The area occupied by the ground-plan is about 55,000 sq. yds., that of St. Peter’s reaching 22,000, and our own Law Courts 15,000. Between this building and the Boule- vard stands the Hospice Pachéco (U. 1), an asylum for widows founded in 1713, but rebuilt in 1835. The *Park, laid out with avenues of trees, pretty vistas, and ornamental water, is the favourite promenade, and contains a few inditi'erent statues. A band plays here on Sun. from 1 to 2.30, and on week days from 3 to 4.30. In the N.E. corner ate the Vauxhall Gardens, where open-air concerts take place on summer evenings at 8 (adm. 1 tin). Within the area once stood the (Ild (Jluitcau ot' the Dukes of Brahant, in the hall of which tOok place the abdication of Charles V. in 1555. The park was the scene of the sharpest combat during the revolution of 1530. Facing it on the S. is the King’s Palace, which contains some handsome rooms, and a few ancient and modern pictures. Among the former are works attributed to lt‘rans llals. IIobbema,Yan Dyek, and 158 Route 33.———Bmssels . Rubens. Adm. only in the absence of the King (when the flag is not hoisted), by special permission. Laeken is the usual royal residence. Near to it is the Palais Ducal, given by the city to the Duke of Brabant, but never occupied by him. It was erected at the cost of the city of Brussels, and presented to Wm. 11., King of Holland, when Prince of Orange, in 1829. Its owner, however, was expelled by the revolution of 1830, and the building is now devoted to purposes of Art. On the ground-floor is a Museum of Casts (Muse'e des Platres), open daily in summer from 10 till 5, in winter from 10 till 4. The upper floor is occupied by the Royal Academy of Science and Art, and by that of Medicine. 12 fine rural paintings by Slingeneyer adorn the Great Hall, illustrating the history of Belgian Politics and Art. The small Public Garden enclosing the palace contains a sitting statue of Quetelet the as- tronomer (1880), and figures of Gain, a discus-thrower, and the Victor—the latter by Gcefs. The Palace of the Count of Flanders, opposite the Palais des Beaux Arts, contains a handsome staircase and some modern pictures. The Palais de la. Nation, built by . Maria Theresa for the meetings of the Council of Brabant, in the Rue de la Loi (C. 4), is devoted to the Representative Chambers, the Senate, and Chamber of Deputies, which form the Parliament of Bel- gium. The interior was destroyed by fire in 1883, but the pictures were saved. They comprise a portrait of Leo- pold I., by De Keyser, and the Rise of the Belgic Kingdom, an allegory, by Galla-z't ; a series of portraits by Gal~ Iait; a Roman Scene, by Verboelt- haven; the First Journey of the Locomotive, by Madou. ; Henri IV. of France playing with his Children, by H. Dillens, sen. ; the Battle ot'Lepanto, by Ernest Selzingenezjjer ; the Battle of - The Royal Library; Sect. n Nieuport, by Odeeaert ,- and the Deat of Mary of Burgundy while hunting by Mathieu. In a recess of the Rue Royall opposite one of the Park gates, is marble statue of the French Genera Belliard, by William Geefs. Othe statues are those of Alex. Gendeb'z'e? erected by public subscription in 187% near the old Palais de Justice (0. 3] of Duke Charles of Lorraine, b Jehotte (1816), facing the Library of l’ersalius the anatomist (1561), b Geefs, in the Place des Barricade (C. 5): and of Burgomaster D Brooukére, with a fountain, 011 th Boulevard (D. 2). In the Place di Grand Sablon (C. 2, 2) is a poo monument erected in accordance wit] a will of the Marquis of Ailesbur: (1710), as an acknowledgment o hospitality received from the peopl‘ of Brussels. The Royal Library, of 234,001 printed vols. and.20,000 MSS., in tht Palais do l’Industrie (C. 3), include: the well-known Bibh’othcque de Bour- gognc, founded in the 15th cent. by Philippe le Bon, Duke of Bin‘gundy Of the MSS.,many are richly adornec with miniature paintings of the greates1 beauty. Among them are the Chronicle of Hainault, in 7 fol. vols, with illuminated title-page, the Missal ol Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary the Psalter of Louis of Mael, and Charles the Bold‘s MS. copy of the ‘Cyropecdia.’ This collection has been twice carried off to Paris by the French as the spoils of war. The library of printul books (3000 ineunabula) was formed in 1837 by the union of the libraries of the State and of the town of Brussels with that of Van Hultem, which was purchased for 315,000 fr. .The library possesses also a collection of 60,000 Engravings, rich in old Flemish and German artists. (Open to students only; entrance from the Modern Museum.) It includes a splendid collection of Niellos, some unique; 3. woodcut, the earliest known, bearing the date 1418. The library is open every day except Sun. from 10 to 4; , Belgium. but closed for a week at Easter. Nothing can exceed the comfort of the reading-room on the first floor. At No. 5, Rue du Musée, is a Collec- tion of Coins and Medals. The University, founded 1835, Rue 'des Sols (C. 3), has been almost entirely rebuilt. It numbers about 1000 students and 50 professors. To this is attached a Polytechnic School, where gratuitous lectures are given in various branches of Science, Lite- rature, and Art. In front is a statue of l'crlmcgen (1862), a benefactor, by (“14'5- In the Place du Congrcs, between the Botanic Garden and the Rue de la Loi, l'lSt‘S the Column of the Con- gress. surmounted by a bronze statue of King Leopold I. It was raised (1850) as a memorial of the National (‘ongress, which after the Revolution of 182-30, established the Constitution and called leopold I. to the throne. At the four corners of the base are female figures personit’ying Liberty of the Press, Education, Association, and Religion. Two bronze lions flank the entrance, from which steps ascend t0 the summit (fine View. small fee); nine female figures in relief surround the base of the column. Steps descend from the pavement to two covered Markets. The Banque Nationals, facing the N. side of St. Gudule, is a handsome and imposing structure. In the Rue du Midi (B. 3) stands the Library of the Académie Royals des Beaux Arts, open from S A.M. to 10 P.M.; on Sun. till noon. Further on is a fountain in memory of Burgomaster Rouppe (1830— 38), whence the Avenue du Midi leads to the stat. Following the Boulevard towards the S.E., we reach, close to the Porto de Hal, the Blind Asylum (B. 1), a red-brick Gothic building of 1858. The *‘l‘own Hall is the grandest of those municipal palaces which are found in almost every city of the Ne- therlands, and nowhere else of the same splendour. The part SE. of Route 33,— University ; Grandc Place. \ 159 the tower was begun in 1401. The beautiful spire, of Gothic open work, 364 ft. high. was built by Jan van Ruysbroeck (1448). It originally stood at the end of the building : the wing to the N.W. of the tower was added in 1444. Its differs in length and otherwise materially from the older wing, but not so as to destroy the effect of the whole. The gilt copper figure of St. Michael on the top, which serves as a weathercock, is 17 ft. high. The outside of the building has been carefully restored, and new statues placed in the niches. The interior (fee, 50 c., 8 persons, 2 frs.; tower. 1 fr., 8 persons. 4 frs.), contains several large modern pictures, repre~ senting important municipal events. The Hall of Common Council, on the first floor, in which Egmont and Hoorn were condemned in 1568, has a ceiling painting and tapestries de- signed by Janssms, and the Banquet hall is richly fitted with carved oak. Other rooms also are decorated with handsome tapestries, and the Sallc des Mariages with oak panelling. The Grande Place, in which the Town Hall stands, one of the finest squares in Europe, is lined with pictur- esque old houses, most of which were the halls of Corporations and Guilds -—brewcrs, archers, mariners, &c. It was often the scene of splendid tour- nann-uts and bloody executions. Here Counts Egmont and Horn were be- headed, by sentence of the cruel Alva, , in 1568. They passed the night pre- ceding their deaths in the semi-Gothic house opposite, called the Broodhuis, or Maison du Roi (built in 1525). restored in 1877-84, at a cost of 50,000l. (see p. 170). Alva looked on while the execution was going for- ward, from an upper window. During the spring and early summer, superb flower-markets are held in this square. The *Gnild houses which surround the Square were mostly rebuilt after the disastrous bombardment of .1695. At the N.W. corner of the Town Hall is the Skippers' house, with 4 cannons projecting from its gable ; then the 160 Route 33.—Brassels: Bom-se; Place des Martyrs ;. Sect. II’. Maison de la Louvre, with a group of Romulus and Remus, the house of the Archers; and further on' the Hall of the Carpenters. Close to the Maison du Roi, which faces the Town Hall, is the Hall of the Tailors; then, on the SE. side, the large Weighing House; and, nearly adjoining, the Brewers’ Hall, with an equestrian statue of Duke Charles of Lorraine upon its gable, and the Hall of the Butchers, distinguished by a swan. In the Boulevard Central is the (B. 4) Bourse, a very handsome edifice in semi-classic style, with 2 Corinthian porticoes, designed by Says. The Grand Hall, transeptal in plan, its dome supported on marble pillars, is filled with noisy stock-jobbers be- tween 1 o‘clock and 3, a scene worth witnessing. The entire cost of the building was 160,0001. The Halles Centrales, or covered markets (B. 3), are worth avisit in the early morning. The arrangements are excellent, and the supply of poul- try, fish, and vegetables abundant. Here may sometimes be witnessed an entertaining Fish—auction, conducted partly in the Flemish language. The Prison des Petits Garmes, near the square called Petit Sablon, stands on the site of the Hotel Cuylenburg, memorable as the place of meeting of the Confederates in the reign of Philip IL, who were the means of delivering the United Provinces from the yoke of Spain. On this spot (1566) they drew rip the famous petition to the Regent Margaret of Parma, called the “ Request.” At the moment when it was presented the Prime Minister, Charles, Baron do' Berliamont, was overheard to whisper in the ear of Margaret, who was rather abashed by the sudden appearance of the peti- tioners, “not to be annoyed by such a parcel of beggars ” (gueur). The leaders of the confederates,hearing of this, and feeling that an epithet given to those who came forward in defence of their country and liberties, though meant as a reproach, became by its application a title of honour, deter“- mined at once to adopt it as their nom de guerre. The same evening, when they met at supper, some of them ap- peared on the balcony of the hotel, with a beggar’s wallet at their back, and a porringer (jalte) in their hand, out of which they drank success to the Gueux. The spark thus lighted was soon blown into a flame, and this is commonly considered one of the lead- ing events of that revolution which, in a few years, dispOssessed Spain of the dominion 0f the northern portions of the Low Countries. Alva wreaked his blind vengeance on the building where the meetings were held, by levelling it with the ground. The Place des Martyrs (B. 4, 5) contains a large monument erected over the grave of more than 300 of the “ braves Belges ” killed in the Belgian revolution, Sept. 1830. It consists of a marble statue of Liberty on a pc- destal, with a kneeling Genius in each of the 4 corners, by Geefs. Below and around it runs a sort of subterranean gallery or catacomb, in which the slain are interred. In front of the Luxemburg Stat, in the Quartier Leopold, is the Statue of John Cockerill, an Englishman, the founder of the iron manufacture of Seraing (Rte. 52). Brussels is the birthplace of Vess- lius the anatomist, 1511, to whom a statue in bronze has been erected in the Place des Barrieades ; of Van Hel- mont, the alchemist, 1577; of Marga- ret of Austria, Governess of the Low Countries, daughter of the Empr. Maximilian; of the painters Bernard van Orley, 1471, Philipde Champaigne, 1602, and Van der Meulen; and 0f the sculptor Duquesnoy, 1591. In the Place St. Gary, W. of the Boulevard (B. 3), the nucleus of the ancient city, is a Flemish Market, Opened in 1882. Further S., in the Place Lebeau, opening out of the Bon- levard de Hainaut, is a School, also in the Flemish style, of red-brick and stone, with a popular Library. Still further 8., at No. 98 on the 1., is a ’58 Belgium. j Technical School; and, close by, a . covered Market and Gallery. 011 the Boulevard, opposite the B0- tanical Garden, is the large and well- managed Hospital of St. John. Adm. ‘ daily, 1 fr.; small fee to attendant. Entrance in the Rue du Pacheco (C. 5). 5 min. further E. stands the 0b- servatory, celebrated as the scene for many years of the astronomer Quete~ let’s observations. Adm. on applica- tion at the porter’s lodge. A large new Military Hospital was opened in J mm 1888, at the extremity of the Rue du TrOne, Ixelles. The Galerie de la Reine or St. Hu- bert, constructed in 1847, extending from the Marché aux Herbes to the Rue de l’Evéque, is a handsome ar- cade, filled with shops and Cafes. A similar arcade, the Galerie du Nord, runs E. from the angle of the Boule- vard du Nord, and B. de la Sennc, and is afterwards crossed by the Ga- lerie du Commerce. There are several smaller passages of the same kind in other parts of the town. Brussels is celebrated all over the world for its manufacture of lace. The peculiarity, in addition to the fine- ness, which distinguishes it, is, that the patterns are worked separately on ;, pillows with microscopic ininuteness, I and are afterwards applique. The flax r employed in the manufacture grows t near lIal : the best comes from a place l culled Rebecquc. The finest sort i costs from 300 fr. to 400 fr. perlb., and i is worth its weight in gold; chry- t thing depends on the tenuity of the t fibre. gyard (English) of the finest 3 and iiiOst expensive kind of lace costs E 15011:; but a very good sort is sold I for 50 fr., and the prices of some are a t l I as low as 10 fr. per aune. It is said i that the persons who spin the thread for Brussels lace, and also for the French cainbric (bat'iste) of St. Quen- 3 tin, are obliged to work in confined [1 dark rooms, into which light is ad- o mitted only partially by a small aper- tture; and that, by being thus com- g pellcd to pay more constant and mi- ; nute attention to their work, they dis- 3; cipline the eye, and attain the faculty [Belgium, 1888.] Route 33.—Theatre ; Churches. 161 of spinning the flax of that web-like fineness which constitutes the excel- lence of these fabrics. Lace-workers are paid ls. for a day of 10 hrs. There is no advantage in buying lace here; it may be got as cheap in London. Kid gloves, however, may generally be had cheaper. The New Flemish Theatre in the Rue de Laeken (B. 5), opened 1 Oct., 1887 (Baes, architect), is built entirely of stone and iron, and rather resembles a pagoda in form. Its principal bal- cony is adorned with busts of three Flemish dramatists — Ogier, Vondel, and Langendyk ; but the structure is chiefly remarkable for the external balconies surrounding all the upper stories, each one of which communi- cates with the interior by separate flights of stairs. A bridge for the use of firemen is conducted across the roofings. The theatre holds only 1300 persons, but the balconies will accommodate a larger number. The doubtful point about the highly commendable experiment is the sta- bility of the galleries themselves, which look hardly strong enough to bear the sudden weight of a surging crowd. The fittings of the interior are highly artistic, comprising lustres of forged iron, and an original arrange— merit of jets for gas. The entire cost was 28,000l. II.—CHURCHES. The Collegiate *Ch. of Ste. Gudule, the finest in Belgium. is a very noble Gothic edifice, the well-proportioned “'. front of which stands grandly 0n the slope of the hill. (Adm. from 12 to 4, 1 fr. ; for a large party, 50 0. each.) The existing choir and transcpts were finished in 1273, the nave in the 14th cent, and the towers in 1518. The whole has been well restored. The choir, with double aisles ending in an apse, is remarkable for its beautiful *painted glass, the finest examples of which are four windows designed by M 162 Comic and B. van Orley (1546—7), in the N. chapel of the St. Sacre- ment des Miracles, with portraits of sovereigns and princes of the 16th cent., by whom they were presented. 'The 5th window is modern. The subject represented is the story of the 16 Miraculous lVafcrs, said to have been stolen from the altar at the in- stigation of a sacrilegious Jew, and subjected to insults by himself and his brethren assembled in their syna- gogue. To add to the sacrilege, the day chosen for this outrage was Good Friday (1370). When the seofi‘ers proceeded so far as to stick their knives into the wafers, jets of blood burst forth from the wounds, and they were struck senseless. The Jews were then denounced by one of the spec- tators, who had been converted to Christianity, and were seized and put to death by the mest cruel tor- ments. This triumph of the faith, as it is called, is commemorated every year, on the Sunday following the 15th of Jilly, by a solemn proces- sion of the clergy, and by the ex- hibition of the identical miraculous wafers preserved in this chapel. The N. and S. windows of the transept are of 1557, the W. window 1528. Within the choir are cenotaphs, erected in 1610 to John 11., Duke of Brabant (1312), to Margaret, daughter of Edward 1., his wife, and to the Arch- duke John (1596). In the chapel of N. D. de Delirrance, S. aisle, is a marble statue, by Geefs, of Count Frederick Mei-ode, a hero or martyr of the Belgian revolution of 1830. He is represented wounded, holding a pistol and wearing a blouse, the costume in which he was shot. Here also is a monument to his brother Philip (1857), a Belgian statesman. This chapel also has finely executed glass of 1656, designed by Th. can Thulden. The 5 windows of the choir contain portraits of various Austrian princes, and below them are several royal monuments. In the nave simple, early-pointed arches rest on circular piers. The statues of the 12 Apostles placed against them are by Que'llin, Duques- Route 33.——Brusscls : Churches; Sect. 1] noy, and others. The carved *pulp1 is an extraordinary rather than artisti work of Verbruggen. .It represent Adam and Eve driven out of Paradis by the angel,who appears on one sid of the globe wielding the flamin sword, while Death glides round wit his dart from the opposite side. Th pulpit itself is in the hollow of th globe, which is supported on the tre of knowledge, and the tree of lifi teeming with fruit, and with variot animals perched on their branche Above the canopy stands the Virgi holding the infant Saviour, whom sh is assisting to thrust the extremity ( the cross into the serpent’s head. 1 was executed for the church of th Jesuits at Louvain: on the suppre: sion of the Society Maria Theres gave it in 1776 to this church. The tower is worth ascending fl its extensive view (1 person, 2 frs 2 or 3 persons, 3 frs.). St. Gudule was a mm in the convex of Nivelles, under the abbess Gertrud She died in Dec. 712, and the St Jan. is yearly observed in her 110110111 The Ch. of Notre Dame de 19. Ch: pelle (C. 2), at the head of the R1 Haute, has a lofty nave of 7 arch and an apsidal choir (9th cent), muc lower. In the 2nd chapel S. is a pi ture by Craycr, Jesus appearing ‘ Mary Magdalen; in the ith, a palti monument to the painter, 1"er Brucghd, with a- picture by him the Delivery of the Keys; and the chapel to rt. of the choir are son good modern frescoes. by Van Iz'ycI-a (1853), who also painted the 1% st tions of the Cross. In a side chapc N. of the chancel, there is a mo pretending monument of the fami Spinola, and (rt. of the altar) a pair ing by De Crayer of S. Carlo Borrom: at the time of the plague in Milan. The pulpit, representing Elijah the wilderness, is less elaborate b more artistic than that of St. Gudul N. D. des Victoires (C. 2) has a fir lofty 14th~cent. choir with mur figures of saints, copied from o frescoes. On the walls of the na‘ ‘ are beautifully painted Stations. A chapel in the N. aisle contains a monument to the Duke of Parma’s secretary (1570), with 6 alabaster reliefs divided by composite columns. Over the S. door a large boat com- memorates a miraculous visit of the Virgin by sea. The flamboyant Chapel of the Ex- piation in the Rue des Sols, SE. of the University, was built in 1436 as an atonement for the theft of the con- secrated wafers (see Ste. Gudule), on the site of the Synagogue wherein the desecration took place. On the walls are scenes from the life of the Saviour on gold ground; in the choir, angels with instruments of the Passion. The Ch. of St. Catharine (l3. 4) ex- hibits a very unsuccessful attempt to unite Gothic form with Reliaissance detail. On the l. is a poorly coloured Assumption of the school of Rubens, and at the end of the l. aisle the Incredulity of St. Thomas, ascribed to Vem’us. The Ch. of the Béguinage, 300 yds. to the N., is dedicated to St. John Baptist, whose colossal statue stands » over the chance]. The pulpit is poorly carved with scenes from the life of l’eter Martyr and Dominic, the latter of whom stands below treading on a Saracen. 8. M. de Schaerbeek, closing the ' vista ot' the Rue Royale to the N., is 3 an octagonal building, with spacious 1 and imposing interior, not very happy i in its proportions. The nave is sur- 1 rounded by an alley, out of which ) open on either side 3 semi-circular : chapels lighted by a glazed arcade. L' The high altar is effectively raised C on several steps. The little eh. of the l Madeleine, in the busy street of that I name (0. 3), originally belonging to t the 'l‘cmplars, dates from 1312, addi- i tions havmg been made to the upper t part of the nave. The large modern Ch. of St. Joseph 1 stands in the Quail-tier Leopold (D. 4). :‘A'Belgium. Route 33.——Museums; Private Art-Collections. 163 Over the high altar is a colossal painting of the Virgin, Joseph, and sleeping Child, by Wz’ertz. E. of the Botanic Garden is the modern Jesuit Ch., a red-brick cruci- form structure in Early Gothic style (0. 6), of which it is very diflicult to obtain a view. Opening out of the Rue d’Artois (B. 2) is the large and imposing modern ch. of St. Antoine, attached to a Franciscan convent. III. MUSEUMS AND PRIVATE ART- COLLECTIONS. No city in Europe is better provided with public galleries than Brussels. Every department of ancient and modern Art is here amply illustrated in well-appointed buildings, to which the entrance is invariably free. At the head of these national institutions stands the *PALAIS DES BEAUX ARTS, in the Rue dc la Regence (C. 3), one of the best-arranged of modern picture galleries. Four granite columns in courses flank the entrance, which is surmounted by bronze medallions of Rubens, John of Bologna, and Jan van Ruysbroeck, architect of the H.‘ de Ville. Over the side doors are reliefs in marble, illustrating the fine Arts. (Adm. daily, 10 to 4 or 5, free.) The Great Hall on the ground-floor is occupied by modern Sculpture, of which good specimens exist by Gccf's, Fraiken, Kessels, Sopcrs, Bouré, De Brackeleer, Fuss-in, and Vincotte. The surrounding corridors above are sup- ported by 64 large Ionic columns in pairs. and are reached by a handsome flight of steps on either side. The well-lighted salomis contain works by the old masters, of which the following list is a selection :— Aertsen: Dutch kitchen. Amberger : Male portrait. Andrea del Sarto: Birth of Castor 164 and Pollux, with their sisters. A poor school piece (Crowe and Cavalcaselle). Artois: Return from the festival. —Winter.~—Landscape, with figures by the elder Teniers. Asselyn : Crossing the Ford—Same subject, twice as large. Berghem: Cattle resting in a mea- (low. Blankof : Ships on a stormy sea. Bles : Temptation of St. Anthony. Blondeel: St. Peter. Bloot : Interior of tavern. Bol: Portrait of man and woman, both dated 1660.—*Saskia, wife of Rembrandt.~Philosopher in medita- tion. Bosch : Fall of the rebel angels. Both: Italian landscape, wrth fine glow of light. Brakenburgh: Children’s treat. Brueghel: Massacre of the Inno- cents. Brueghel (Velvet): St. preaching against Tanchelin. Brouwer (A.): *Tipplers at the table—*Tavern brawl. Bruyn: Male and female portrait. Camphuysen: Interior of farm. Champaig‘ne: St. Ambrose and St. Stephen, both formerly in the ch. of St. Germain at Paris. Clerck (H. dc) : Large Holy Family. —-Sufi'er the little children. Coninxlo : Genealogy of the Virgin. ——Birth of St. Nicolas.—Disputation in the Temple. Coxcie: Last Supper. — Christ crowned with thorns. Cranach: Adam and Eve. Orayer: Miraculous draughtof fishes. -——Assumption of St. Catharine.— St. Apollonia.——SS. Antony and Paul, formerly in the Louvre.~—'J.‘he same hermits, fed by a raven—The Virgin with Joachim and St. Anne—Pieta. ——Christ appearing to St. Julian.——— Adoration of the shepherds. Crivelli: *Virgin and Child—St. Francis of Assisi. Cuyp : *Interior of a Cow-stall, with poultry. Decker : *Wooden bridge. Delfi' : Man’s portrait. Dietrich : Artist’s portrait. . lDoes: Young shepherds. Norbert Route 83.——Brussels : Palm's des Beams Arts ; Sect. I] Don : *Portrait of the artist, with statue of Cupid. Dusart : Village feast in Holland. Flinck: Portrait of a lady. Floris : Adoration of the kings. Francken: Croesus showing hi treasures to Solon. Gossaert: Christ in the house ( Simon the Pharisee. Goyen: View of Dordrecht. Gysels: Landscape and ruins, wit dead game. Hals : *Portmit of Pl‘OfGSS( Hoornebeek of I.eyden.—*P0rtrait I W. van Heythuysen. Heem: Allegory of plenty—Sever: paintings of flowers and fruit. Heil: Skating scene. Helst (B. van der): Portrait of ti artist and his wife, both dated 166i. Hemessen : Prodigal son. Hobbema: *Haarlem Wood. Holbein: Portrait of Sir Thom More. Hondecoeter: Peacocks, turkej and ducks at a park gate—*Co crowing, with ducks at a pond. Hugtenburgh: Cavalry charge. Hnysmans: Landscape, with a1 mals. Good cow in foreground; fi scenery. Janssens: Dido at the building Carthage. Jardin (K. du): The advar. guard.—*Return to the cow-stall. Jordaens: St. Martin casting out demon.——Allegory, with satyrs a farms—Blowing hot and cold; finr coloured.——Reboeca at the well. Klomp: Milking-time. Koedyck: Dutch interior. La. Fabrique: Boy counting mon Leermans: Crucifixion; solei quiet, and lonely. Lingelbach: Scene in the Pia: del Popolo. Lint : Artist’s portrait. Lombard : Diptych, with numerr figures, illustrating the ills of hun life. Maes: *Old woman rcading.— M portrait. Marne: Feast of the patron Saii Meert: Four Syndies of the Fi mongers’ Company. Memling : Crucifixion. — *Port E?» Belgium. of a Bruges Burgomaster and his wife.—*Male portrait. Memling (School of): Consecration of a Bishop—Holy Family.~—Virgin and Child. Metsu: *Light refreshment. Metsys (Quentin): *Genealogy of the Virgin, formerly at St. Peter’s, Louvain, and purchased by the Bel- gian Government for 80001. On the left wing an angel announces to Joachim the birth of the Virgin, and Joachim and Anna make their offer- ing; on the right are the Death of St. Anne and expulsion of Joachim from the temple. This fine picture is dated 1509. All the faces are remarkable for their chapped mouths, and total absence of eye-lashes and eye-brows. Mieris (W. van): Susanna and the Elders. Mignon: Flowers, snails, insects, and squirrel. Millet: Italian landscape. Molenaer : Two Dutch interiors. Molyn: Village festival at night. Mommers: Marketing. Moro (Antonio) : *Portrait of Hugo Goltzius.——-*P0rtrait of man with red beard—Duke of Alba ; a cruel face. Mostaert : Miracle of St. Benedict. Moucheron: Stag ~ hunting, with finely lighted landscape. —Rocky scene, with fishermen. Neefs: Antwerp Cathedral; fine effect of torch and candle-light. Neer (A. van der): *Canal scene, at night, strangely disfigured by a badly drawn h0rse.—*Skating on a large pond—Moonlight on the Yssel, too uniform in colour. Noort : Suffer the little children. 00st: Man’s portrait. Orley (B. van): Pieta, or Dead Christ, mourned over by his friends and by the women, one of his best works. “ It has great truth to nature, but is hard, as the whole picture is in a dry Gothic style.”—R.—Trials of Job—Portrait of a 16th-cent. physi- cian—Portrait of Guillaume de Nor- man—Triptych, representing the life of the Virgin—Holy Family. Orley (School of Van): The lady with a pink—Virgin and Child. Route 33.—-Palais des Beams Arts. 165 ‘ 0stade (A. van): *Peasant, eating herrings.—*Three peasants, playing and singing. 0stade (I. van): *Travellers’ rest. —*Girl spinning, with two boys. Palamedes : Portrait of a man, aged 40.—Musical party. Perugino : Virgin and two children. Pimont: Italian landscape. ' Poel: Cottage interior, very minute in details. Pourbus (F.): Portrait of a man with red beard. Pourbus (R): Portrait of a Bruges Sheriff. Pynacker: Deer-hunting at sunset. Ravestein: Portrait of a lady with triple lace collar. Rembrandt : *Male portrait of 1641. Reyn : Portrait of a lady (1637). Rubens : Assumption of the Vir- gin. -— Pieta. — Coronation of the Virgin.——*Adoration of the Magi-- Virgin and Child within a garland of roses—Venus in Vulcan’s forge.— Portrait of Jacqueline van Caestre. —Male portrait, aged 41. Ruysdael (Jacob): *Wooded land- scape, with figures.—Ruined tower, pond, and fishermen. —- *Haarlem Lake, in a high wind. Ruysdael (Solomon): *Ferry across the Meuse. — *Water scene, with exquisite shadows. Ryckaert: Alchemist in his labo- ratory. Saftleven: *Barn, with utensils and figures. , Sallaert : Infant Jesus, with the instruments of the Passion. Schalcken: Children, dropping can- dle-grease. Schoevaerdts: Procession of the fattened Ox.—Fish market, on the sea-shore. Schongauer: Christ in the house of the Pharisee. Siberechts: Farm-yard. Soolmaker: Jacob and Esau—Ita- lian peasants at a fountain. Steen: Village orators. — *Quack surgeon, extracting stones—Twelfth night—*Love’s offering of onions and a herring. Stoop (Dirk): Horsemen at an Inn. .-—Rest at the fountain. 1'66 Stuerbout : Last Supper. —- *The Ordeal of Hot Iron: the wife of the Emperor Otho convicted of the same crime as Potiphar’s wife, on the testi- mony of the widow of the Count, who had been beheaded on the strength of the em ress’s false accusation. In a secon picture the widow is kneel- ing before the Emperor with the hot iron in her hand, while the empress suffers death in the background. Swart : Adoration of the kings. Teniers (the Elder): Large land- scape, with cottage on the left. Teniers (the Younger): The Five Senses—Village Doctor—Landscape with figures—*Flemish Feast (1652), with figures of the painter and his 2 daughters and servants, his carriage and chateau; a masterpiece—Temp- tation of St. Anthony.—*Full length male portrait—Setting out to market (background by Van Uden).-—Mon- keys playing at Soldiers (of doubtful authenticity). Tilborgh: Belgian princes,as knights of the Golden Fleece. Vandyck: *Portrait of Alex. Della- faille. Van Eyck: *Adam and Eve; frag- ments of the M ystz'c Lamb at Ghent:— *Adoration of the Magi. Van Eyck (School of): Virgin and Child. Veen (Otho van): Marriage of St. Catharine, Velde (W. van de): *View on the Zuyder Zee. Verboom: Setting out for the Chase. Vos (Cornelius dc): *The Artist and his family. Vos (Martin do): *Male and *fe- male portrait. Vos (Paul de): Stag-hunting. Vries: Stag-hunting. Weenix (J. B.): Dutch lady at her toilet (attributed). Weenix (Jan) : Hare and partridge, with other figures and fruits. Weyden (R. van der): *Portrait of Charles the Bold—Woman in tears.— Adoration of the Magi—Circumcision. —Disputation in the Temple—Bear- ing the Cross—Crucifixion. —En- tomhmcnt.——Holy women at the Se- pulchro. Route 33.——-Brussels : Academy; Sect. II. Witte (Emm. de): Interior of ch. at Delft—Smaller Church interior. Wouwerman: Setting out for the Chase—Lovemaking on the Chase. Wynants: *Landscape with ani- mals—Smaller landscape, with sports- man followed by his dog.——*Land‘ scape, with peasants on a donkey.— Large landscape, with cow- drive] asking the way. UNKNOWN MASTERS. — Flemish School: 65, 66. Portraits—67. Wings of a triptych, with donors—70. As- sumption of the Virgin.—73, 74. Per- traits—75. Virgin and Child—76. Portrait of Guillaume de Croy.—80. St. Benedict—82. Virgin and Child. —84. Consecration of a bishop—85. Crueitixion.—86. Virgin and Child, with St. Catharine and Barbara.~ —87, 88. Four Benedictine nuns—92. Fa- mily portraits—96. Wings of a tri- ptych.——97. Annunciation—99, 100, 101. Portraits—105. Adoration of the Shepherds—107. Portrait of donor.— 109. Temptation of St. Anthony.— 110, 111. Male and female portrait.— 112. St. Anthony of Padua.——113. The Woman taken in adultery.—116. Virgin and Child—117, 121. Ladies’ portraits. German School: 127. Wings of atriptych; Scourging and Ascen- sion—130. Crucifixion—132. Adora- tion of the Magi.—131. Sacrifice of Isaac—139. Ludovic II. of Hungary. —1~10. Virgin and Child, with Saints. ——141. Mary Magdalene and Thomas. ——1-1~L The Emp. Maximilian I.— 145, 146. Max. II. and his Sister, as children. French School: 152. Ed- ward VI. of England. Dutch School: 512. Landscape. In the bombardment of Brussels on the 20th of August, 1695, by the French under Marshal Villeroy, there were destroyed, in less than is hours, several thousand houses and 14 churches, the latter adorned with some of the finest works of Rubens, Van- dyck, and other eminent painters, which perished in the flames. The Academy, entered by an arch from the corner of Place Royale, next to the H. de l’Europe, is the Old Belgium. Route 33.——Museum ; Palm's d’Arenberg. Palace, formerly the residence of the Spanish and Austrian Governors of the Low Countries, and before that of the Dukes of Brabant. It has been enlarged and re-arranged by the addition of several galleries to contain modern pictures by Belgian artists. Among the best are Verboelrhoven, Sheep caught in a Storm; Italian Landscape, with Ox, Sheep, and Shep- herd; Louis Gallait—Abdication of the Emperor Charles V.; Nzwez— Hagar and Ishmael; Athaliah recog- nising Joash; Baron Legs—Estab- lishment of Christian Worship at Antwerp after the Revolution; Funeral mass for an armourer of Ant- werp; Madou—Thc Village Fete, interrupted by Emissaries of the Directory ; Van Bree—Sixtus V. as a boy; Owns—The forbidden book; Bource—Bad news; Thomas—Judas on the night before the Crucifixion; Czermale—Christian Slave—girl; Ver- lat—Godfrey de Bouillon ; lVauters— Hugo van der Goes, the painter, soothed by music in his madness; E. de Bz'ere—Petition of Netherland nobles in 1565, with portraits of Egmont, Hoornc, ‘Villiam of Orange, &e. During the triennial Exhibition, which takes place every autumn in rotation at Brussels, Antwerp (1888), and Ghent, the permanent paintings are not visible. The Museum of Natural History, 011 the ground-floor, is the most com- plete in Belgium. The zoological department includes many specimens brought from the Dutch East Indian colonies. That of mineralogy is en- riched by an interesting collection of Russian minerals; chremate of lead and malachite are fine. There is a complete series of the volcanic pro- ducts of Vesuvius; of the fossils of Maustrieht; of the Antwerp crag; a skeleton of a mammoth, from Lierrc; Belgian came bear—skulls; skeletons of sperm whale; Simia nusm‘u, an ape with a nose, &e. In the Court, under glass, are specimens (ticketed, of the largest Saurian reptile known. J ust Within the doorway is a colossal statue of the geologist, Omalius 167 d’Halloy (1783—1875), by Geefs. Op- posite, are interesting specimens of local marbles, cut into thin trans- parent plates and mounted on glass, to show their conchilaceous formation. The long room contains stuffed animals below, and birds in the galleries above; beyond are the palaeontological and pre-historic col- lections (Catalogue, 50 0.). Another compartment has reptiles and skele- tons of various animals, among which are several whales. Downstairs are fossils, shells, geological fragments, and minerals. The *Palais d’Arenberg‘ (C. 3), once the residence of Egmont, con- tains a small but choice gallery, chiefly of Dutch and Flemish masters: a valuable collection of Etruscan anti- quities, and much fine old furniture. In the library is an antique head, asserted to be that of the famous Laocoon. In the absence of the Duke, the gallery is shown daily. except Sundays, 10 to 4; a card should be left at the house the day before. (Minimum fee, 3 frs.) The best pictures are arranged on the long wall facing the windows, and almost all are masterpieces. The following may be selected :— Berck-Heyde: Canal. Both : *Landscape. I Brauwer : Interior. Brekelenhamp: Boy with Mussels. Craesbeeck: Artist’s studio. Cuyp : *White horse in the stall; Horses plunging. De Hooch : Interior. Dietrich: Angel in White. Dou: \Voman counting money. Everdingen: Cataract. Hals: *Two boys singing. Hobbema: *Wood and lVater. Metsu: *Page handing letter. Jitter-2's: Game. .Moucheron : Devil's bridge. Ostacle (A. van) : *Large interior. Potter .- *Animuls in a farm (tiny). Rembrandt: *Tobias. Rubens : *Three pretty Angels’ heads. . Buysdael: *Cataract. 168 Stee-n : Marriage in Cana, noisy and vulgar. Tem'ers: *Dance; Bowls; *Well. Terburg: Concert (Replica of Louvre picture); Portrait of his wife. Van der Heist : Portraits. Van der Neer (Aart.): Sea and Fishing boat. Van der Neer (Eglon): Boy with feathered cap. Van de Velde: *Calm at Sea. Vundyck : Portraits. Van Musscher: Woman with two young children. lVozurerman road. Wynanyts : Small Heath and Water. *Playin g at *Smooth Cow ; Cattle ; (Jan) : *Woodland The small square, below the en- trance to the Duke of Arenbcrg’s mansion, is adorned with a bronze colossal Statue group of the Counts Eginont and Horn, by Iv'raz'lrz'n. The 48 figures, which surmount the hand- some railing of the enclosure, repre- sent the guilds ot' the ancient city, each one bearing the emblem of his trade. The Musée Wiertz, beyond the Luxemburg stat. (E. 3), open daily 10 to 4, gratis, is occupied by the extra- ordinary works of an eccentric artist, named Wiertz, who died in 1863. The building, formerly the painter’s studio and residence, was purchased after his death by the Belgic Govern- ment. Catalogue in English, French, or German, 50 c. The subjects dis- played in the great Hall are peculiar. The Belgic Lion of Waterloo leaving his mound to contend with the Black Eagle; One of the great ones of the Earth (Polyphemus) scattering his Enemies; The Fight over the body of Patroclus; The Hosts of Hell warring against the Powers of Heaven. The Beacon of Golgotha is the name given to an original design of the Raising of the Cross. The Orphans is a touching picture, painted by Wiertz on behalf of the children of some masons killed by the fall ot'a building. Premature Burial, and The Suicide, are etlorts Route 33.—Brussels : Musée Wieriz ,‘ Sect. II. of great power, but almost too horrible for the pencil. Some of the pictures are shown through peep-holes—a rather unworthy trick. Ladies appear strangely fond of visiting this exhibi- tion; but they should at least abstain from taking young children. In the smaller rooms are the artist’s por- trait; Infant. Jesus asleep; Re-union in Heaven; bronze mask of the painter; and a cabinet with palette, brushes, clothes, music books, and guitar. The *Porte de Hal, at the SW. end of the town (C. 1),a large Gothic gatehouse 110w standing alone, was one of the city gates and part of the fortifi- cations, erected in 1381 ; it was Alva’s Bastille during his bloody persecution of the Reformers. It is now used as a Museum for a very interesting and well-arranged collection of medizcval antiquities. Adm. daily, 10 to 3; on Mon. 1 to 3. In front of this building criminals are guillotined —- a rare occurrence. At the entrance, model of the Bas- tille (1369—1789); Romanesque fonts with stems; 2 fine early lltli-cent. slabs, which have 10st their hrasscs; handsome series of tiles from chimney hearths (at window); 2 fine double braSses; tombs; Hebrew inscriptions. In another room, casts of ivory carv- ings; cannon with its chariot (coule~ wine), found in a well at Bouvignes; chimney-piece with inlaid cornice and coloured architectural landscape; at the foot- of the stairs, 2 Octagonal pavement mosaics from Carthage. 1st floor: at the windows 1. and rt. stufi‘ed horses, on which Isabel and Archduke Albert rode into Brussels (1591’); numerous suits of standing figures in armour, chiefly German of the 16th cent: gunstoeks inlaid with ivory, shields, spears, cross-bows, swords, helmets, pistols, and various detached portions of armour; ivory hunting-horns; chain armour; at the end, several armed Japanese figures, with a case of weapons from China and Japan; knives, daggers, and swords from the Dutch Indies; at a window, Japanese spears and daggers E Belgium . (hr-is), with carved ivory and wrought metal hilts. In the l. alley, suits of chain armour, guns, bits, spurs, and 2 remarkable German visors (muserolles), one of which is dated 1578 (at a win- dow). 2nd floor: On the rt. (by window), the cloak and bow of Montezuma (1520), last Emperor of Mexico; tables inlaid with tortoise-shell, ivory, and mother-of-pearl; brooches and vases in enamel; gold and silver fiagons, cups, dishes, and ornaments; in cen- tral cases and at. the windows, choice specimens of china; painted Dutch cradle; handsome cabinets. At the end, a room fitted up like the treasury of a ch., with ecclesiastical vessels, ornaments, and richly wrought vest- ments. Facing it outside is the silver head of Pope Alexander (12th cent.) on a plinth, with enamelled busts of Route 33,—Porte de Hal ; Mint. 169 vestein, presented to the town by the collector, who was formerly Belgian Minister at the Court of the Vatican. (Excellent descriptive catalogue, 1 fr.) On the 1. are Egyptian antiquities, comprising vases of Karnac alabaster, mummies of a cat and a hawk, pails, portable altars, a mphora of Nicosthenes from Cervetri (389), and surgical in- struments from Pompeii. In the flat cases, coins, seals, and terra-cotta lamps. The glass case dividing this compartment from the middle passage has an amphora (303) found near Vulci. In the centre, mirrors, buckles, brace- lets, rings; handle of a fan (1477) in gold filigree found at Salerno. Tuscan necklaces, spindle from Cer- vetri (1009), samples of glass (1610) found on the bank of the Tiber. Most of the figures arranged in the recess-at the upper end of the room are worthy the Apostles beneath it; a triptych ] of special examination. In the right- reliquary with statues; in the centre 1 hand alley, Italian reredws of the 16th of the hall, crosses and crucifixcs in silver-gilt or crystal. The sides of this partition are adorned with carv- ings in wood from Belgian or Luxem- burg churches, the finest of which are the histories of SS. lieger and Agnes (1530) from the abbey of Lies- sics, and of the Maccabees (1493) from Louvain. Close by is a hand- some metal font and late Gothic con- fessional. In the 1. hand alley, ivory carvings, stained glass, locksmith’s work, bronze bcl‘s, bowls and candle- sticks, and ancient iron chests. In the 2nd case from the window, an ivory *diptych with the risen Saviour, Coronation, and Salutation; in the lst case, an ivory *rcliquary in the form of a Romanesque ch., with the Saviour and symbols of Evangelists on the facade, and heads of the Apostles under arches. Rocking cradle made for the infant ot' Maxi- milian of Austria and Mary of Bur- gundy, and supposed to have been used by Charles V., their grandson. Slatnettes, household utensils, glass, porcduin, weights and measures ; over the door a roodloft panelled with statues of the Apostles and Virgin; high up, all over the room, tapestries. On the 3rd floor is the Musée Ra.- cent. (2397), octagonal silver casket (2107). 12 Apostles in gilt bronze, groups in Dresden china (2381), Oh- long table of lumachella marble found near Monte Testaccio, epcrgnes in Dresden china, ivory diptych, wrought- iron jewel chest, and (234:0) mosaic pavement iroxn Ostia. Also a number of vases and potsherds found at Tongres, Rumpst, 'I‘ournai, Venlo, and Elewyt. In the centre of this compartment is a valuable *collection of ancient marbles, comprisin g specimens of those employed in the various churches at Rome, together with a small number of modern examples. 8.1V. of the I’ortc dc Hal the Rue de la Victoire leads in two minutes to the Mint, a handsome structure of brick and stone, unfortunately placed flnsh with the street. The Rue de l’HOtcl des Monnaies runs hence NE. into the boulevard. where on the rt., just beyond the Place Louise, is the Carmelita Ch. (D. 2), of poor preten- tious architecture, but \vell painted within. On the piers, Apostles; in the chancel, scenes from the lives of Carmelitc saints; below the windows, the Stations of the Cross. An English Priest is attached to this ch. 170 In the Rue des Augustins, close to the junction of the Boulevard du Nord and de la Senna (D. 4), is the highly instructive Musée Commercial (Adm. 9.30 to 4, except on Sun). lst floor: bazaar of drapery, carpets, glass, and crockery. 2nd: cutlery, ironmongery, and a collection of minerals and marbles, with fancy articles. mostly furnished by Belgian consuls from their respective countries. On the ground-floor : fibres, seeds, chemicals, wines. and spirits, together with a reading-room and library, well sup— plied with English and other scientific or industrial magazines. Catalogue lent to the visitor, gratis. On the 2nd floor of the Maison du Roi (entrance at the back, in Rue du Poivre), is arranged the interesting Musée Communal. On the stairs, indifferent pictures. 1. Room to the 1. Architectural fragments from re- stored or demolished edifices ; carved and coloured wooden reredos. II. Engravings, illuminated books, por- traits by Ant. More, Bo], Goltzius. Cuyp, Mierereld, Holbcz’n; Young Dentist by Van Tol. Cestumcs of the Mannikin, with his decorations at- tached; models, fragments of ancient furniture, and an interesting Series of water-colour scenes from the environs of Brussels. III. Prints, plans, archi- tectural elevations; original coloured designs for Procession in costume, at the 50th anniversary of Belgian rail- ways. At the top of the stairs, winged picture of saints building a ch. The Musée Scolaire, No. 22, Rue Ducale (D. 4), is a most interesting collection of books, maps in relief, globes, school furniture, games of skill, models, scientific instruments, optical and chemical apparatus. and objects of industrial art, together with a small assortment of minerals and stuffed birds. The ground-floor is devoted to agricultural implements, Wooden toys, and a model ot'a Belgian Normal School, with its well-titted gymlmsium. The adjoining wooden Route 33,—Brassels : Museums; Sect. Il. house is an imitation of the old Flemish style of architecture, by the painter Smaelen. The Somzée Collection of modern pictures may be seen by permission of the owner, a Belgian M.P., at No. 217, Rue Royale. The Collection of Musical Instru- ments, belonging to the Conservatoire dc IIIasique, is open only on Thurs, from 2 to 4:, and is worth a visit. (Entrance at No. 11, Rue aux Laines, free.) 011 the ground-floor are ar- ranged various brass instruments; on the 1st floor, bassoons, flutes, organs, Violas. guitars, &c., with a harpsichord of 1550, and piano of 16:20; and on the 2nd floor instruments from Asia, Africa, and America. The Salles des Ventes, No. 71, Boulevard Auspach, may almost be classed as a museum of ancient furni- ture and various curiosities. One of the rooms on the upper floor contains usually a large Collection of cabinets, inlaid tables, &e., periodically oti‘ered for sale. About a mile E. of the Luxemburg Stat, reached by the Rue de la Iioi (E. 4), rise the twin buildings of the International Exhibition, in one of which, on the 1., has been arranged an extremely interesting *Collection of Casts (Jl'usc‘e dc I‘Art monumental ct imluslriel). Entrance free, in winter 10 to 3, in summer 10 to 4. Here will be found reproductions of all the chief architectural curiosities of H01- land and Belgium, including door- ways, sculptured tabernacles. fonts, statues, pulpits, tombs, and chimney- pieces. The vast dimensions of the building have been utilised for the introduction of monuments of unusual size, such as the lofty tabernacle at Le’au, the Caryatides of the Ercch- thcou at Athens, and the gate of a Buddhist temple at Sanehi in India. Among the most remarkable ot' the medireval obiects are a paschal candle- stick from Lean, the well of Quentin IMetsys from Antwerp, the portal ot the council chamber at Outlenarde ‘ Belgium. and the celebrated chimney-piece and royal tombs from Bruges. The room to the rt. of the entrance has a small but choice reproduction of vases, gob- lets, platters, shields, and missal- covers in various metals, chiefly from S. Kensington and Nfirnberg; while the screens which divide the partitions are hung with photographs of the principal works of mediaeval art found elsewhere in Europe. IV. HISTORICAL SITES, AND CHRONOLOGY. The Rue d’Assaut, leading N.W. from Ste. Gudule, is named from the successful attack of Everard 1" Ser- elaes, who in 1356 recovered Brussels by a surprise with only 66 men from the Count of Flanders. In 1388 he was barbarously murdered at the in- stigation of the Sire de Gaesbeek, and a monument was raised to his memory, long since destroyed. The Ball given by the Duchess of Richmond the night before the Battle of Waterloo, and rendered famous by Byron’s lines, at which the Duke of Wellington not only appeared, but danced, took place in a house in Rue de la Blanchisserie, now pulled down. Neither the Ball-room nor any part of the building now exist. Rue de la Blanchisserz'e is not far from the Botanic Gardens. The authority on which this statement is made is that of Lady de Ros (daughter of the Duke of Richmond), still living, who danced with the Duke on that memorable occasion. Wellington received news of the march of the French on the evening of June 15, and instantly sent orders to his troops in all directions to con- centrate on Quatrc Bras. But as it was of the greatest consequence to prevent alarm in Brussels, the fact was kept secret, and the Duke dressed and went to the ball along with many Route 33.—Hz'stom'cal Sites; Chronology. 171 of his officers, who were dismissed quietly, and one by one, to their posts in the course of the evening, he follow- ing among the last, and by sunrise of the 16th the whole force was on its march. Chronology of Brussels—The oldest spot in the town, and the nucleus of the present city, in the Place de Géry, where the Saint (Gangericus) built a. chapel on an island in the Senne, and preached to the Pagans. He died 11 Aug, 619, and was buried either at Brussels or Cambrai, of which latter place he became bishop; The Emperor 0tho visited the Shrine of S. Géry in 976. ' lotus—Lambert Balderic enclosed the city within walls, protected by 7 towers. 1205.—Henry I., duke of Brabant, divided Brussels into 7 parishes. 1288.——John I., duke of Brabant, issued a coinage, and built the ob. of N. D. des Vietoires. 1321.~—First incorporation of trade- guilds. 1370.—Banishment of the Jews, for their desecration of the Sacred Host. 1405.—-Brussels nearly destroyed by a great fire. use—35,000 persons carried 011' by plague and famine. l555.—Charles V. favour of Philip II. 1567.——A1va arrived in Belgium. . MOS—Execution of Egmont and Hoorn. 1577 .—Thc Prince of Orange crea- ted Ruward by the States of Brabant. 1578.—Anothcr visitation of the plague carried off 27,000 persons. 1579. —— Battle between native troops under Philip d’Egmont and the Spaniards under Van den Tympel, the latter being victorious. 1585.-—The Duke of Parma laid siege to Brussels, and compelled the inhab. to surrender under starvation. 1599.-—-Triumphant entry of Albert and Isabella. 1610. — Publication of the first Flemish newspaper. 1651.——First newspaper in French. abdicated in 172 1670.—First Jubilee of the Sacred Hosts, decreed for celebration every 300 years. 1695.——-Villeroy, with 60,000 French troops, besieged Brussels, destroying 4000 houses and 14 churches. l705.—Streets lighted for the first time. 1717. — Peter the Brussels. 17H. —- Maria Theresa Queen of Belgium. 1746.—Brussels taken by Marshal Saxe. ESL—Succession of Joseph II. 1789.——Insurrection under Van der Noot, compelling the sovereign to comply with the constitutional de- mands of the citizens. 1792.-—Entry of the French after the battle of J einappes. 1794.~Belgium became a French province. . 1802.—Napoleon, as first Consul, visited Brussels. 1814.—The allies entered Belgium, which was then united to Holland under William I. 1830.—Belgium threw off the yoke of Holland, and became an indepen- dent Kingdom under Leopold I. Great visited became — V. Suon'r WALKS AND Excussroxs. The principal Promenades, besides the Park, mentioned before, are the Boulevards, which surround the town -—the Botanic Garden (0: 5, Cata- logue, 50 e.), very prettily laid cut, open to the public daily from 9 to 4—- and the Paro L'eopold (E. 3), beyond the Luxeinburg ltly. Stat. Within the latter are enclosed the extensive buildings of the Horticulture Inter- nationale, opened on May 10th, 1888, for the cultivation of new and rare plants. Special attention is given to the rearing of orchids, palms, and ferns. The arrangements are most admirable, and the Exhibition is freely open to visitors. The *Bois de la Gambre, 2 m. from the Place Royale, approached by Route 33.—-Brussels: Walks and Excursions. Sect. II. the Avenue Louise (D. 1), forms the fringe of the Forét de Soignies, and large sums have been expended in laying out and embellishing it. A tramway leads to the Park gates, and hither in summer evenings resort the fashionable world of Brussels. In one corner a Cricket-ground has been assigned to the English, who play however more generally at Cureghem. About half way from Brussels, on the left, lies the suburb of Ixelles, with its two ponds; and beyond it the ancient Abbey of La Cambre, now a Military School. A pleasant walk in the forest may be enjoyed by means of a return ticket to b‘oitsfort stat. (Rte. 64). La Maison du Tir National, in an angle between theChausséede Louvain and the Avenue Cortenberg, contains 42 shooting- boxes, each with a separate target, at a range varying from 100 to 600 metres, besides galleries for Re- volver-shooting at 25 metres, &c. The Royal Palace of Laeken, nearly 4 m. N. of the principal hotels, may be reached by carriage, rail, or tram- way. A fiacre costs 5 fr. to go and return, provided it be not detained more than 2 hrs. The pleasantest approach for the pedestrian is by the avenue of the Alle'e Verte (A. 6), at the end of which the canal is crossed tothe l., and the ch. is reached in about 1} hr. from the Place Royale. The *Ch. of St. Mary, Laeken, de- signed by Poclaert, has an unfinished spire, and the capitals of its exterior are still left in the rough. The inte- rior consists of a lofty nave with aisles of nearly equal height, which in the central portion of the ch. are double, forming a short transept. The win- dows have good early-pointed tracery, and the foliation of the capitals is ex- cellent. A shallow triforium gallery runs under the large aisle-windows of nave, choir, and transept. The ch. has many interesting features, but is terribly spoilt by the glare of white- wash. Bevond the Choir is a spacious octagonal chapel, intended as a royal t ,, Bolgium. mausoleum. At 11 o’clock on the 11th ()ct., a requiem Mass for the King and Queen is celebrated in the 011., and on that day alone the coflins may be visited in the crypt below the octagon. Entrance from behind, at any time in the afternoon. Behind the ch. is the Cemetery, with an ancient cruciform chapel, having a good early-pointed apse in course of restoration. Here are several monuments by Geefs. one of which was erected to Mad. Malibran the singer in 1836. Below the cemetery are 4 underground galleries of modern construction, reached by steps on the S. side. Further on, the road ascends in 15 min. to the royal Palace of Laeken, built by Albert, Archduke of Saxony and Governor of Flanders, in 1782. It was the property of Napoleon from 1802 till 1814, and here the emperor signed in 1812 his disastrous declara- tion of war against Russia. On rising ground to the l. standsthe *monument to Léopold I., who died in the palace on 16 Dec., 1865. A Gothic canopy of good middle—pointed work encloses a statue of the king by Gm) s, the whole being surmounted by an open spire, about 80 ft. high. The figures above the round columns typify the 9 pro- vinees of the kingdom. A winding staircase mounts to the second tier, from which is obtained a line general "view of Brussels. The British Cemetery, formerly in the Rue de Noyer, was transterred in 1887 to Evere, beyond the Chaussee de Louvain (E. (3). The officers and men who fell in the Waterloo campaign were re-interred apart with due honour, and the British (lovernnrent have made a grant of 5001. towards the Memorial which is to be placed over their remains. About a mile outside Brussels on the SW. (steam tramway several times a day from the Porte de Ninove, plan A. 3), is the suburb of Ander- lecht, whose eh. of St. Guido» contains a good lb'tb-cent. kneeling statue of the Comte de Homes, and a curious crypt of the 11th cent. Route 34.—T0urnai to Ghent. 173 ROUTE 34-. TOURNAI 'ro GHENT, BY COURTRAI. 48 m. RAIL. Leaving Tournai (Rte. 33), the rly. crosses the Schelde, and runs N.W. to 10 m. Herseaux Junct. Stat. Rly. E. to (18 m.) Remix. At 13 m. Mouscron Junct. Stat. (pro- nounced Moucron) is the Belgian ens- tom-house for passengers from Lille. 20 m. COURTRAI J unct. Stat. (Buf- fet), Flern. Kortryk (30,000), a manu- facturing town 011 the Lys, remarkable for its cleanliness and for the table damask and other linen made here, besides woollen manufactures. Flax of very tine quality is cultivated in the surrounding plain, and supplies not only the manufaetories of the town, but many of the markets of Europe. There are large bleaching—grounds in the neighbourhoml, the waters of the Lys being found to possess qualities favourable for bleaching as well as for the steeping of flax. The first Flemish cloth manufacture was esta- blished here in 1200. The Hotel de Ville in the market- place, a Gothic edifice of 1520, was restored in 1800, when the statues on its facade were entirely renewed. The Selle Echeriuale on the ground-floor is decorated with 7 wall-panels by (hrjfens and Suwrls, the largest of which, opposite the windows, repre- sents the departure for the Holy Land of Baldwin 1X. in 1202, and another the meeting of Flemish Ge- nerals on the day before the battle of the Golden Spurs in 1302. Opposite the latter is a richly Carved *chimney- 174 piece of 1595, adorned with a figure of the Virgin, numerous armorial bear- ings, and statues of Archduke Albert and his wife Isabella. In the Council Chamber on the 1st floor is a far more elaborate and interesting *ehim- ney-piece of 1527. with figures of the Virtues and Vices, and bas-relicfs below illustrating the punishment of the latter. On corbcls are statuettes of Charles V. and Isabella, with an allegorical figure of Justice. Cressing the square, and leaving the Belfry on the rt., we reach the eh. of St. Martin, with a conspicuous tower. It has a flamboyant nave and transept of equal height, early 14th- cent. choir with aisles, clerestory, and blind trit‘orium. The huge foliation of the capitals is remarkable. The pulpit is coarsely carved, but the *ciborium of 1385 on the l. of the choir is ex- tremely elegant, and is adorned below with figures of the 4 Latin doctors, and SS. Benedict and Scolastica. The Rue du Béguiuage leads hence to N. Dame. At No. 14 on the l. is a small Museum (free on Sun., Mon., Thur. 10 to 3), with some good modern pictures, and the usual assortment of local and municipal relics. Further on, bearing rt., we reach the Ch. of N. Dame (1211), founded by Count Baldwin IX. It has been much rebuilt in a style intended for Ionic, and cased in marble, but some good early work yet remains in the choir- aisles. Behind the high altar, badly hung between two glaring windows, is a celebrated *painting by Vandyclr, the Exaltation on the Cross. The face of the Saviour is singularly ex- pressive. Vandyck‘s autograph letter, acknowledging with thanks the re- ceipt of the money for the painting. as well as of some gaufl'res, a thin sweet cake, for which Courtrai is still Celebrated, presented to him by the canons, is still in existence. The altars on either side are adorned with excellent white marble reliefs of the last cent—1. S. Roch suocouriug pil- grims, rt. Death of Mary Magdalene. The large chapel of the Counts, opening on the rt., is surrounded with l-lth-cent. Route 34.—00urtrai : Deg/me. Sect. II. portraits of the Counts of Flanders, freely restored; and on the W. wall is a modern pageant-fresco of the Last Judgment. The street of N. Dame hads to a small Public Garden. A little beyond the 011., a lane to the 1. runs to the river Lys, where a bridge of 3arches and two *massive round towers (1413— 65) are the sole relics of the ancient fortifications, destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1684. Under the walls of Courtrai was fought the Battle of the Golden Spurs, 1302 (not to be confounded with the “Battle of Spurs" in which Henry VIII. and the Imperialists put the French chivalry to flight, at Guine~ gate in 1513), gained by an army of 20.000 Flemiugs. principally weavers of Ghent and Bruges, under John Count de Namur, over the French under Robert Count d’Ai-tois, brother of Philip 1e Bel and Constable de Neslc, in which Robert was slain, and with him 1200 knights, while several thousand soldiers Were left dead on the field. Hundreds of gilt spurs (an ornament worn only by the French nobility) were gathered on the field from the dead, and hung up as a trophy. A small chapel, built 1831, on the rt. of the road, a little way outside the Porte de Gand, marks the centre of the battlefield. 2 m. S.W. of Conrtrai, on the Lys, is the village of Bisscghem, near which the Duke of Yoik was defeated in 1793 by General Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. Rly. IV. to Ypres (lite. 30); N. to Bruges (Rte. 42); 1‘}. to Enghicn (Rte. 37); and Oiadcnardc (lite. 35). The Ghent line runs N .E. to 29 m. Waereghem J nnct. Stat. (Rte. 35), and follows the rt. bank of the Lys to 37 m. Deynze Junct. Stat. (4000), with an old ch. Adjacent is the village of Peteghem, whose castle was a residence of the Carolingian Frankish kings. Rly. W. to Thielt (Rte. 38). At Belgium. 42 m. La Pinte Junct. Stat, the line falls in from Mons by Blaton (Rte. 39), and the train reaches 48 in. Ghent (Southern) Stat. (C. 5). For description, see Rte. 32. ROUTE 35. COURTRAI T0 BRUSSELS, BY OUDEN- ARDE. 54 m. RAIL. From Courtrai (Rte. 34) this line runs nearly due E. to 11 in. Anseghem Junct. Stat, whence a branch rly. turns off N.W. to (16 m.) Ingelmiinster (Rte. 38), crossing Rte. 34: at ll'aereghem. On this line, 12 In. from Anseghcm, is the village of Oostroosebeke, near which Philip van Artevelde was defeated, in 1382, by the French, and, with 20,000 of his countrymen, perished in the battle—See Taylor’s Philip can Arte- teldc. 17 m. OUDENARDE Junct. Stat. (Fr. Auricnarde), a town of 5300 Inhab., on the Sehelde. [n the Grands Place stands a small but remarkably elegant *Town Hall in flamboyant Gothic of 1535, one of the handsomest in the Netherlands. In front runs an arcade supporting a balcony, above which rises a tower of the richest ornamentation. The porter (50 c.) lives in the base- ment, at the top of the steps which ascend to the Salle des Pas Perdus. Here is a fine late Gothic chimney- piece. Beyond this (fee 50 c. to the attendant) is the Salle Echem'nale, which contains a *remarkable Re- naissance screen of 1531, carved in wood with arabesque panels and figures of children, and forming three Route 35.——00urtraz' to Brussels. 175 sides of an irregular octagon. The handsome Gothic chimney-piece is two years earlier. The building includes also a small Museum of arms, seals, and various curiosities. Beyond the Town Hall, to the rt., is the large imposing ch. of St. Wal- purga, almost entirely of 15th cent. within, though much of the external work to the E. is good early pointed (Sacristan’s house adjoins the S. aisle). To the l. of the chancel is the tomb of Claude Jalon, and at the end of the right aisle a good picture by an unknown artist of a Trinitarian re- deeming captives. 10 min. further S., on the opposite bank of the Schelde, is the highly interesting ch. of *N. D. de Pamele, of slate-coloured stone, with short octag- onal central tower. It has a. fine early-pointed nave with plain triforium and clerestory, rich transepts and polygonal apse—all of the purest work, except a bad perpendicular S. aisle with chapels. On the l. of the main W. entrance are 2 recumbent efiigies, and on the rt. a later tomb. Between the two churches lies the pretty brick Gothic court of a Convent, belonging to the Saeurs Noires. The tower called the Saecksen, and the bridge of the Eync Gate, are very ancient structures. Oudenarde is the birthplace of Margaret Duchess of Parma, Regent of the Low Countries under Philip 11., and natural daughter of Charles ~V., by Margaret van Geest, a lady of this place. The battle of Oudenarde, fought under its walls in 1708. was gained over the French by the Eng- lish, in a great measure through the personal prowess and exertions of Marlborough and Eugene. Half way between the stat. and the town a female figure by Geefs, bearing a wreath of immortelles, has been set up as a monument to the Belgian volunteers killed in Mexico under Maximilian, in 1865. 27 m. Sotteghem Junct. Stat. (3000). In a vault under the ch. are buried Lamoral Count Egmont, beheaded by Alva, his wife, and his 176 ‘ 2 sons. his castle. Rly. S.W. to Renata: (Rte. 37); SE. to Enghz'en (Rte. 60); N. to Ghent. Here are some remains of 33 m. Burst J unct. Stat. Rly. N.E. to Alost (Rte. 59). 40 m. Denderleeuw J unct. Stat. Rly. N. to Alost, S. to films (Rte. 57). 52 in. Jette J unct. Stat. Rly. N.W. to Termonde (Rte. 50). 5% in. Brussels (Northern) Stat. (B. 6). See Rte. 32. ROUTE 36. COURTRAI 'ro HAZEmror'CK, BY anns. ~11 mi. RAIL. Leaving Courtrai (Rte. 34), the train runs a little S. of W. to 7 m. Menin Junct. Stat. (Flem., Meeneu), on the Lys. The works of this frontier fortress are now demo- lished. With its 12,000 lnhab. it is very dismal and lifeless. lily. S. to Tourcoing (lite. 78). At Dadizeele, 4 m. N. of Menin. :1 0h. was built by E. W. Pugiu, archi- tect, for the miraculous white image of our Lady ; it 00st 70,000l. 11 Ill. Wervicq Stat. (7000). Fine ch. of St. Illedard, 14th cent. Extensive tobacco factories. The train now skirts the frontier, the opposite bank of the Lys being French. 13 m. Comines J unct. Stat. (Fleur, Route 36.——00urtraz' to Hazebrouck. Sect. II Comen), a town divided by the Li into tw'o parts, one belonging 1;. Belgium, the other, since 1667, t France. In the Castle, now a ruin was born (HIS) Philip de Comines author of the Memoirs (d. 1509) Rly. to (10 m. SW.) Armentiére (Rte. 33); S. to Lille (Rte. 41). On line turns N.W. to 21 m. Ypres J unct. Stat (Rte. 41] and there resumes its W. course to 27 m. Poperinghe Stat. (11,000),: decayed town with some trade i1 hops and hemp. It was once famou for its manufacture of stuffs in mixer silk and wool—whence the tern Poplin. The early—pointed eh. has : good W. doorway and finely carvet pulpit. 5 in. further we cross thi frontier, and soon reach 41 m. Hazebrouck Junct. Stat Buffet (10,000), a flourishing town quite Flemish in character. The ch of St. Nicholas is surmounted by : beautiful openwork spire 200 ft. liigl (1493—1520). [lily N. to Dunkirk pilSSlllg 6 m. Cassel Stat. (4500), an ancien town. situated 011a solitary hill, abou 1 m. from the stat, and though only 801 Eng. ft. high, commanding one of th mest extensive views in Europe. It most remarkable feature is that thi horizon is almost equally distant ii every direction, as no rising grouin interrupts the sight. The view ex tends over the flat and fertile plains o F lauders. and as far as the white clifi' of England. into 3 different kingdoms including 32 towns and 100 villages St. Omer, Dunkirk, Ypres, Ostend and the beautiful steeple of Haze hrouck are the most prominent ob jects: no fresh water is visible in thi vast expanse. This hill was a prin cipal station of the great Trigono metrical Sum-y of France. Casse was originally a hill fort of th Morim', and afterwards became : Roman Castellzun. In 1328 the F1 King Philip VI. here routed th: Flemings with great slaughter. {Belgium ' Flemish is the general language of the po ulation in the N. parts of the Dépt. u Nord. It is spoken at Oassel, and as far as Watten. . 20 m. Bergues Stat. (5800), situated on a hill surrounded by marshes and salt lakes. called Mooren, now im- proved by draining. Bergues arose round the Benedictine Abbey of St. Wynoc (10th cent), hence its Flemish name \Vynoxbergen. A fortress of the second class, Bergues has been 8 times taken and retaken and 9 times pillaged. It has a picturesque Beflroz' 150 ft. high. A very important com-market is held here every Monday. .' 25 m. Dunkirk Stat. (Rte. 38).] ROUTE 37. ' COURTRAI TO ENGHIEN. 42 m. RAIL. Courtrai is described in Rte. 3%. From 9 m. Avelghem Junction Stat. a branch rly. runs S.W. to (12 m.) Mouscron (Rte. 3}). The Escaut is crossed to 13 m. Amougies J unct. Stat, whence another line, nearly parallel with the last, diverges to (14 m.) Tournai (Rte. 33). At 17 m. Renaix J unct. Stat. we cross the fly. between Ghent and Mons (Rte. 39), and leave on the l. a short branch line to Sotteghem (Rte. 35). 'i 31 m. Lessines Junct. Stat. Rly. N. to Grammout. S. to Ath (Rte. 59). [Belgium, 1888.] Route 38.—Dunkz'rk to Ghent. 177 36 m. Bassilly J unct. Stat. Here we join the direct line between Galals and Brussels, following it to 42 In. Enghien Junct. Stat. (Rte. 33). : ROUTE 38. DUNKIRK TO GHENT. 68 m. RAIL." DUNKIBK or DUNKERQUE (38,000), a strongly fortified town, is the best harbour which France possesses in the N. Sea, and ranks fifth or sixth in the value of its exports and imports of all the French seaports. It is one of the cleanest towns in France, with wide well-paved streets: sea-bathing very good on the fine sands E. of the town. Large sums have been ex- pended in endeavouring to clear the mouth of the harbour from the bar of sand which obstructs it, by means of basins and sluices, which are filled by the flowing tide and emptied at low water, so as to scour a channel through the mud. (See Ostend.) The Harbour, usually crowded with vessels, and Pier extending far into the sea, are worth visiting. The Corinthian portico of the Church of St. Eloi is a handsome but most incongruous frontispiecc to a Gothic interior: in front of it is a fine de- tached Gothic Belfry containing the chimes. A British Consul resides here, and an English Prat. Ch. has been built in the Rue des Vieux-Remparts. A bronze statue of Jean Bart, a celebrated naval commander, born N 178 here in If 51, stands in the Place which bears his name. Dunkirk owes its origin to a church of St. Eloi (Eligius), built in 960 by Count Baldwin 111., among the dunes or sand-hills, and thence comes its name, “ Church of the Dunes.” Here was equipped the Flemish division of the Spanish Armada, designed to combine in the invasion of England under the command of the Duke of Parma; but that cautious general, perhaps foreseeing the result, refrained from putting to sea. Dunkirk, after having been hardly won by the English under Cromwell from the Spaniards in 1658, was basely sold by Charles II. to Louis XIV. in 1662 for 5 millions of livres (2&6,6001.). By the Treaty of Utrecht (1713) the French were compelled to de- molish the fortifications, which were not rebuilt until after 17 83. The country around is little better than a dreary waste of sand-hills thrown up by the sea and wind. It was in this neighbourhood that Tu- renne defeated, in 1658. the Spanish army under Don John of Austria and the great Conde’, who had sided at that time with the enemies of France, in the Battle of the Dunes. (See Handbook for France.) Steamers to and from London three times aweek, chiefly with cargo; fares 108. and 7s. ; also to Hull,to Leith, to Rotterdam, and to Hamburg. Rly. W. to Calais, passing (18 m.) Gravelines Stat. (6600), a fl rtrcss and desolate-looking,r town, with grass growing in its streets. “ It is,” to use the words of an old writer, “ very strong, by reason that they can drown it round in 4 hrs., so as no land shall be within a mile of it." It is sur- rounded by a p1ain,once avast marsh, below the level of the sea, from which it is protected by dunes or sand-hills. Off GraVelines occurred one of the most momentous events in the world’s historya-the defeat of the Spanish Armada by a small English fleet, July 29, 1588-aby which the power of Spain was broken, and England and Holland saved from subjection to Route 38.—Dunkz‘rk——Furnes. Sect. II. the Pope. The large lumber-ing Span- ish ships, driven out of Calais roads by fire-ships, were attacked at will by the swifter English vessels, their decks swept, guns dismounted, man) sunk, and the rest dispersed. The Emperor Charles V. here paid a visit to Henry VIII. on his returI from his interview with Francis I. a‘ the Field of the Cloth of Gold in 1520 Here also the Spaniards, under Eg mont, won a great victory over th< French in 1558. The lily. to Furnes follows tht coast past the sand-hills where th: “Battle of the Dunes” was fought and between Ghyrelde and Adinkerqu Stats. crosses the frontier. 16 in. FURNES Stat. (Flem., I'e-urne: A sickly town (4:000), owing to th malaria from the surrounding marshes A great part of the linen manufacturer in Belgium is sold here, at large fair held three times a year. The H6te1 de Ville is in the IR nais>anec style, 1506—1612. It ha ‘2. rooms hung with Spanish leathc and some finely earwrd doors. A6 joining are the I‘uluis dc Justice, an the liqfl'roi, a tower of brick, con pleted in 1629. The Ch. of St. Walburg is the 0110' of a stately Gothic structure, bcgu early in the 14th cent., and left In finished. The oaken pulpit, carve with a representation of St. John i Patmos, and the choir stalls are 1 Nth-cent. work. In the sacristy is fragment of the true Cross brought t Count Robert II. of Flanders fro: Jerusalem (1090), in honour of whic a procession still takes place on t1 last Sunday in July. The 14th-cen Ch. of St. Nicholas has a large in finished tower. Between Furnes and the sea st0( the famous Cistercian Abbey of tl Dunes, founded in 1107: remaii of it may be seen on the farm call( the Bogacrde (Orchard). It was (1 stroyed by the Gueux in 1560. 5 in. NW. of Fumes is the litt bathing place of La Panne. iBelgium. Steam tramway N.E. to Nieuport Route 39.—Ghent to Mons. 1'79 Quitting Dixmude, the rly. runs and Ostend; daily coach SE. to E to Ypres. 25m. Dixmude Junct. Stat. (4100). Here is a fine Grothic Church, contain- ing a stone Rood—screen of elaborate and beautiful workmanship, in an ex- cessively florid style. Over the high altar hangs a chef-d‘oeuvre of Jordaens, the Adoration of the Magi. ' Branch rly. N.W. to 9 m. Nieuport (3500), a quaint but desolate old town, with a tidal harbour, now deepened to admit small craft from the sea. 1; m. distant is a lighthouse, built in 1284, by Count Guy Dampierre. Nieu- port was once a strong fortress sur- rounded by brick towers, one of which remains at the SE. angle. It has a modern H. de Ville, and an interesting Cloth Hall of 1480, with a good belfry. The train runs on to 11 m. Nieuport-Bains Stat, a fa- vourite watering-place, with the usual Casino and Digue-promenade of clinker bricks. Upon the sand dunes, close to the sea, N. of the Haven, was fought the Battle of Nieuport (1600), in which Prince Maurice of Nassau, assisted by an English contingent of 1000 veterans, commanded by the heroic Sir Francis Vere and his brother Horace, defeated the Spaniards 11,600 strong, under the Archduke Albert. He marched from Bruges to relieve Nieuport; upon which the Dutch hastily crossed the Haven to meet him. The English, under Vere, led the van, and er'e posted in front among the sand-hills. They bore the brunt of the fight, and for want of timely support, were nearly over- whelmed by numbers. As it was, this gallant little band left little for the rest of the army to do but to follow in the chase. In the first onset Sir Francis Vere was desperately Wounded, and the English volunteers sufl'ered severely, but they gave an eminent example of courage. The good generalship of Prince Maurice was never more conspicuous than on that day. 32 m. Gortemarck Junct. Stat, on the direct line between Ostend and Ypres (Rte. 41), and 36 m. Lichtervelde J unct. Stat, where we cross the line from Bruges to Courtrai (Rte. 42). Thence to 47 m. Thielt Junct. Stat. (10,500), with an old Cloth Hall and Belfry. Rly. S. to (7 m.) Ingelmiinster, Where are extensive carpet factories and a handsome chateau. Steam tramway N.E. to (10 In.) Aeltre (Rte. 32). 57 m. Deynze Junct. Stat, where the Tournai line falls in, and we follow Rte. 34 to 68 m. Ghent Terminus Stat. (Rte 32). ROUTE 39. GHENT T0 nous, BY BLATON. 9 m. RAIL. This rly. follows Rte. 34 (reversed) as far as 6 In. La Pinte Junct. Stat, where it leaves the Courtrai line on the rt, and proceeds S. to 17 m. Oudenarde J unct. Stat. (Rte. 35). Thence, crossing the Escaut, to 26 m. Renaix Junct. Stat. (Rte. 37), and 37 m. Leuze Junct. Stat, where the N 2 180 Route 40.——Flushing to Matinee. Sect. 1] main line is crossed between Lille and Brussels (Rte. 33). Continuing S. we reach 45 m. Blaton Junct. Stat, whence three branch lines diverge. Rly. N.W. to (16 m.) Tournai(Rte. 33); S.W.to (3 m.) Bernissart ; N.E. to (12 m.) Ath, passing, 5 m. from Blaton, Belmil ROUTE 40. Stat, the patrimonial estate of the Princes de Ligne since 1394. The FLUSHING T0 MALINES, BY TERNEL’ZE] celebrated diplomatist, soldier, and 57 m. STEAMER AND RAIL. author, of this family gives in his lettersalongdeseription of his country A steamer plies 3 times daily i seat and gardens: they were laid out 1;. 111-. between B‘lushino‘ and in the formal French taste by Le ' a Netre, and excited the admiration of 15 m. Terneuzen J unct. Stat, 11] Delllle, who meatlons tlns spot in his wards of a mile from the port. Omn 1300111 ‘ Les Jfll'dlnS,’ as— bus between train and steamer. ’1‘] “Belceil toutji. 1a fois magnifique ct cham- ftll‘tlfit‘d tOWII (4700). With its 0105‘ - Pam" and crooked streets, lies close to t1 . . . . entrance of the Ghent Canal whic 139th Voltalre and Delllle v1s1ted'the 0'ives that city all the advantaaes < rmcc in 111s retirement here. lhc D . . - - - ~ ° Castle founded in 1146 surrounded by a .seapolt, ab 1t 1s ~10 it. (1001): a1 water ’has been rebuilt in indifi'erent wnle enough to adnnt vessels M W] taste, It contains a fine Libraru' large burthen. 1-13 serves also as some interestinw historical relies and drain to carry Ofl “-10 water irom It] works ot'art' piiintiiws attributed to (“stud thronghgvlneh it passes. . 1).. .,. H 11);. V‘ ’1‘) '1' V‘l' \ V ltly. S. to (21 m.) Ghent, erossn \ um, o em. an 3 x, e asqum, ) _ . , w, . . . L. da Vinei Salv. Rosa' portraits of lit“ 00 dt (11 in.) Palm“ more than lilo Princes db Lie‘ne' also 2 m. Short ottlns, at Sas van Ger a collection of firearms i'ih‘om’ the on the DPtCh. trontler, Mb: slu1ees,l earliest dates of their inveiition The means 0t-“111011 the 01ml"? count number and lentrth of the avenues can be hud under water. the GM ‘ D ‘ .- ,~ f rly. proceeds to (19 m.) \l‘ondelge and hornbeam hedges, “1th \undows » \ r . - . . i - - , - _ (hte. 01). 0111 hue runs L. to out In them, intersectmg the grounds in all directions, form a singular and characteristic feature of the Park. The Conservatories contain a first- rate collection of rare plants. Turning S.E., the rly. proceeds to 12 m. Hulst Stat, the last in I'I( land, where is an interesting: 15th-eei ch. In the Landshuis is a. paintii by Jordaens, and in the H. de Vil another by Cornelis de 1'03. '1‘ . . . Bela‘ian frontier is reached at 56 ni. St. Ghlslam Junct. Stat, on t” the main line between Paris and . . . 1‘” In. La Clin e Stat. where ‘ Brussels, whieh 1s tollowed to J g k ’ enter the rieh agrieultural district 59 m. Mons Junct. Stat. Bufl'et. llaesluml (hteuio). Lrom (lite. 56). Five other lines radiate - _ . S .7 from St. Ghislain, 3 of which are 17m. 813' Gilles Waes Junet. t‘ noticed elsewhere. The remaining 2 fi151f9£'§].1}“%SENS? 01: 1W. to 3131111 run N. to (14 In.) Ath, and Si}. to *Sot“ M i” L' " M ‘ W“ ‘1 (6 In.) Frameries, crossing a branch ' 0 fly- 0" me- 56 “t mm“- 21 In. St. Nicolas Junct. Stat. (n 45). Rly. to (13111. S.) Termor (Rte. 43). Immediately beyond ":Belginm. Route 40.—-Tamise—Malines. 181 26 m.Tamise Stat. (10,000), whence deserted aspect. Mechlin is the see " a steamer plies 4 times a. day to Ant- of the Belgian Primate, who receives werp, the Escaut (Schelde) is crossed from the State 8401. per annum ; his on a long iron bridge. five sufl'ragans of Bruges, ‘ Ghent, Namur, Liege and Tournai, each re- 31 In. Puers Junct. Stat., for Ant- ceiving 6401. werp or Ghent (Rte. 44). ' The *Cathedral, dedicated to St. 34 in. Willebroeck Junet. Stat. Rly. Reinhold. must be visited before 12, N. to Antwerp, S. to Londerzeel for or between 3 and 5 l‘.M. The interior Alost (Rte. 59). Here we cross a has a choir of 4 bays (1451) and nave canal which joins Boom on the Rupel of 6 bays (1437), and is 85 ft. high. with V21 rorde on the Senne, and at It has a carved pulpit, representing the Conversion of St. Paul, with the 40 m. Hombeek Junct. Stat. fall in fallen saint and his horse below; and With the direct line between Louvain ian altar-piece in the S. transept, by and Ghent (Rte. 43). which we follow Vandyelr, of the Crucifixion, painted as far as after his return from Italy. “ This, MALINES LEGEND. . . H. Cicogne. . H. Buda. . Cathedral. . Grands Place. . Monument. . Museum. . St. Jean. . St. Pierre. . Notre Dame. ' 42 m. MALINES J unet. Stat. Bufl'et. perhaps, is the most capital of all his (Fleur. Mechelen, (term. Mecheln.) works, in respect to the variety and A handsome street, ltue d'Egmont, extensiveness of the design, and the leads from the Rly. Stat. to a bridge judicious disposition of the whole. orer the Dyle, whence the Brulstraat In the etforts which the thieves make rims directly to the Grande Place to disengage themselves from the and Cathedral (15 min. walk). On cross he has successfully encountered the rt., just beyond the bridge, 2 the difficulty of the art, and the ex- stretches the Botanic Garden, which pression of grief and resignation in is adorned with a statue of Dedonazus, the Virgin is admirable. St. John is born here in 1517 (adm. 50 e.). a mean character, and the hair of the Magdalen, at the foot of Christ, Malines, or Meohlin (45,000), is one , looks more like silk drapery than of the most picturesque of Belgian 1 hair.”—R. The picture was carefully cities, from the quaint architecture of 1 cleaned in 1848, and seems to have its houses and the multitude of signs ‘ been little retouehed. The modern over the shops, but presents new a ‘: carved Stalls are very beautiful. The 182 window in the N. transept is filled with a representation of the promulgation of the dogma of the Immaculate Con- ception. In the S. aisle are 25 paint- ings of the 14th cent., representing events in St. Rombold’s life—very curious, but freely restored. The only other paintings worth notice are an Adoration of the Shepherds by Quellin, in the N. transept, and a Circumcision by Corrie, high up in the N. choir-aisle. The organ possesses a rich and full tone. The massive though unfinished Tower, begun in 1452, is 32% ft. high, and was intended to rise 336 ft. higher. The face of the clock is 48 ft. in diameter. The chimes are very musical.“ This church was built with the money obtained by the sale of iii- dulgenccs to pilgrims, who flocked hither in 1452, to celebrate a Jubilee proclaimed by the Pope throughout Christendom, on the occasion of a war against t" e Turks. N. of the Oath. stands the 16th cent. Palace of the Abp., with picturesque details. 3 min. N. of it is the (,‘h. of St. Catharine, and a little. further N.W. that of the Grand Béguinage; both contain pictures and sculptures in wood and stone by the later artists of the Flemish school. In the Grande Place, in which the cathedral stands, are several ancient buildings, the most conspicuous of which is the Cloth Hall (1340), now i guard-house. Between this and the cath. is a statue of Margaret of Austria, daughter of the Emp. Maxi- milian, aunt ofCharles V., and Regent of the Low Countries (d. 1530)—it is by a sculptor of Mechlin. The circle on the pavement round the monument indicates the size of the clock. The II. de Ville to the N. has been modernized. S.\V. of it, at the corner of a street, is the late Gothic Sehepenen I‘Iuis, now a Museum of municipal curiosities, g with relics of Margaret of Austria. The custodian’s address is written on the door (fee 50 0.). Following the street in which the Museum stands towards the S.W., we Route 40.—Mali'nes : Churches. i Sect. 11 soon reach the river, and observe t( the l. a row of interesting houses or the quay. The finest are No. 5, the ancient Salm Inn, with a Renaissanct front of 1534, and No. 20, a picturesqm Gothic building. In the Church of St. John, NE. 0: the cath., is a very famous *altarpieci with wings by Rubens, the Adoratior of the Magi. “ A large and rich com position: but there is a want of form in the Virgin and Child. On thi inside of one of the doors is the Decol‘ lation of St. John the Baptist; on th( other, St. John the Evangelist in the caldron of boiling oil. The figures which are putting him into the caldror want energy, which is not a common defect of Rubens. On the outside art John baptizing Christ, and John th< Evangelist in the Isle of Patinos."—R Below this painting hangs a small Crucifixion, by the same master “Rubens was paid for these 8 pic- tures 1800 iloriiis, about 1801., as ap- pears by the reeeipt in his own hand- writing, still preserved iii the saci‘isty and the whole was begun and finisher in 18 days."—Ii’. The ch. has soim good oak carving, and a peculiar bni picturesque toWer. E. of St. John’s is the *Moiit dc Pie‘le‘ (1507), an interesting house 0. red brick with stone facings, restored in 1874. Within are some remain: of mural paintings, and a fine chim- ncy~piece. 5 min. walk SE“ beyont the Cattle Market, is the Tribunal partly Gothic, partly Renaissance, 0 good early style. It was formerly tlit‘ Palace of Margaret of Austria, and has been well restored. The elegant Gothic Church of Notre Dame, passed on the rt. in returning from the cath. to the railway, contain: behind the high altar the *Miraeulou: Draught of Fishes, by Rubens. painted for the Guild of Fishinoiigers, and considered one of his most masterly works. 011 the wings or shutters an the Tribute Money, Tobias and tln Fish, Peter, and Andrew. Ruben: painted these subjects in 10 days for 1000 tlorins (901.). Belgium. ' Mechlin was the seat of the Court of Appeal of the Netherlands, founded by Charles the Bold in 1473, which con- tinued to maintain the reputation of a. most upright court of justice for many centuries. Charles V. and Philip II. presided over it in person. Mechlin is the birthplace of Ernest Count Mansfeld, a Protestant leader in the Thirty Years’ War; of Michael Coxie (1497), the scholar and imitator of Raphael; of Dodonaeus, the botanist (d. 1585); and of Frans Hals, the admirable portrait painter (1584). The manufacture of Lace, which receives its name from Mechlin, is much fallen off. It is a coarser and stonter variety than that made at Brussels. Rly. to Brussels or Antwerp (Rte. 47); t0 Louvain or Termonde (Rte. 43). Steam tramway to (15 m. N. E.) Ih'gem, crossing Rte. 54 at Hog/st op- den-Berg. ROUTE 41. os'ruxn T0 LILLE, BY Yl'RES. 53 m. RAIL. From Ostend (Rte. 32), this rly. runs a little E. of S. to 6 in. Ghistelles Stat, a pretty vil- lage, named from the stable or stud of the Counts of Flanders, which was situated here, attached to the old Castle, now removed. In the modern Church is the monument of St. Goda- lava, wife of Bertulf, Lord of Ghislel, in the 11th cent, who was strangled by her husband through jealousy, and is now honoured as a saint. Her skull Route 41 .———Oatend to Lille. 183 lies in a shrine of silver, before which a lamp burns night and day. 13 m. Wynendaele Stat, with an ancient castle, once a hunting-seat of Robert the Frieson, 10th Count of Flanders (1090), and a favourite residence of the Counts down to Robert de Bethune. 15 m. Thourout Junct. Stat. (Rte. 42). 19 m. Cortemarck J unct. Stat, where the rly. is crossed between Dun- kirk and Ghent (Rte. 38). 36 m. YPRES J unct. Stat. (Flem. Yperen), an old town of 16,000 In- hab., no longer fortified, in a fertile plain on the Yperlée. The kind of linen called diaper (d’Ypres), was made lICl'C.'l' Thread and thread—lace are the principal articles of industry at present. The extent and prosperity of its manufactures had raised the number of its Inhab. to 200,000 in the 14th century, at which period 4000 looms were constantly at work. Its importance has long since de- parted, but it has some fine old houses, and one relic of its former greatness is the *Cloth Hall, in the great market- place, a low building, 460 ft. long, in a rich style of Gothic architecture, surmounted by a central belfry tower 230 ft. high, and flanked by corner- turrets. It is by far the purest and best of all civic buildings in the Netherlands. The great hall, 145 yds. long, has modern frescoes by Swerts and (v'zqi'ons. The ~14 statues, in front, of Counts of Flanders down to Charles V., are modern. The Town Hall at the E. end, supported on pillars, was added in 17 30, and is entered from the open space in front of the ch. 0n the 1st floor are 12 mural paintings by l’uuwcls (1876-84), illustrating the history of Ypres. (Fee, 5 fr.) The *Ch. of St. Martin, formerly cathedral, is a large and handsome building in various styles of Gothic. + The word is sometimes derived from the Greek stavndpsw, to spread, or Siaa’n’dv‘ to separate. 184 The early pointed choir, ending in a polygonal apse, dates from 1221, and contains good Renaissance stalls, a bronze-wrought lectern, and recum— bent effigies of 3 bps. in coarse alabaster. t The transepts, of excellent Nth-cent. work, are remarkable for a fine S. wheel window and rich portal. On the N. is a winged picture of 1525 (covered t, representing the Fall of Man and his Redemption. The lower part of the nave and aisles may also be re- ferred to the beginning of 14th cent., but the triforium and clerestory are much later. The aisles of the nave are terminated beyond the trausepts by apsidal chapels, each entered by a lofty double bay. A curiously-termed arcade runs round the transept and choir. On the cover of the brass font are figures of the ~1- Virtues. A small square stone in the chancel pavement, marked with a Maltese cross. records the death of Bp. Jansen in 1638; but his tomb, formerly in the Cloister, was long since stolcn. In 1809 the see was suppressed, and Yprcs is now in- cluded in the diocese of Brugcs. The cloister, no longer entered from the church, belongs to a nunnery of Poor Clares. Near the H. Téte d’Or are the remains of a fine 14th cent. housc. Further on, the 011. of St. Pierre has a massive brick tower of transition date, with turrets at theangles. Returning towards the N.E., the late-pointed Ch. of St. Jacques, with a good tower, con- tains a remarkable modern pulpit carved in the form of an oak-tree in full leaf, with ivy on its stem, and vines trained up the staircase (1850). The Museum, near the SW. corner of the Cloth Hall (free on Sun. 11 to 12 and 2 to 4, otherwise small fee). con- tains some interesting municipal and local antiquities, one of the innumer- able swords which slew Eginont and Horne, carved furniture and cabinets, and some unimportant pictures, tow gether with engravings of picturesque old houses now destroyed. Ypres is famous for hops and biscuits. The School of Cavalry for Belgium is here. Leaving Yprcs, the rly. follows Rte. 36 reversed as far as Route 42,—‘4Bruges to Com-trai. l Sect. II. 44 m. Comines Janet. Stat, where luggage is examined, and there is usually a long delay. Thence, cross ing the Lys, a direct line proceeds S. o 53 m. Lille Junct. Stat. Buffet. See Handbook for France, and Rte. 33. Most of the trains, however. make the circuit by (51 m.) Armentiéres, on the Lys, 10 11). SW. of Comines, and thence turn E. to (61 m.) Lille. ROUTE 42. BRUGES TO COURTRAI. 33 m. RAIL. A flat but fertile country is traversed S. 11 m. Thourout J unct. Stat. (8600), named after a grove sacred to Thor (Thor-hout). A little coarse woollen cloth and much excellent lace are manufactured here. Rly. to Ostend (Rte. ~11). 14: m. Liohtervelde J unct. Stat. Here the line to Dixmude and Furnes (Rte. 38) diverges. 19 m. Roulers (Flcm. Roselaere) Stat. (17,000), on the Mander, with fine meadows. The Town Hall is a long ancient building in the middle of the town. It has a large square tower, apparently of earlier date, at its S. end, and a slender but graceful miniature spire in its centre. The Ch. of St. Michael is a plain and rather small structure, with a very beautiful spire (1510). Some of the best lace in Flanders is manufactured at Roulers, and a small quantity of woollen stuff. It is an important linen-market. Here the French defeated the Aus- trians in 1794. Rly. S,W. to (14 m.) Ypres. Belgium. 21 m. Rumbeke Stat. Gothic Oh. and chateau of the Count de Thienues. 23 In. Iseghem Stat. (9000), with numerous linen factories. 26 m. Ingelmiinster J unet. Stat. Branch line to Deynze, passing Thielt (Rte. 38). 33 m. Courtrai Stat. (Rte. 34). ROUTE 43. 'LOUVAIN TO GHEN’I‘, BY MALINES AND Tnnmosnr. 51 m. RAIL. LOUVAIN, Flem. Lem-en or Loren ~ (39,000), is a dull city of very ancient origin on the Dyle. The old Castle, of which a small fragment remains , Route 43.—Louvaz'n to Ghent. 185 earthen rampart encloses the town on this side and commands a fine view. The ground-plan of Louvain is nearly circular, the circumference being formed of promenades on the ancient ramparts, nearly 5 m. long. In front of the stat. is Geefs’ statue of Sylvaan van de Weyer, the friend of King Leopold, and for 30 years Bel- gian Minister in England. The *Hétel de Ville, in the exact centre of the town, one of the most elaborately decorated Gothic buildings in the world, was begun in 1448, and finished in 1469, by Matt. de Leyens, master mason of Louvain, and has been repaired at the joint expense of the town and government. The delicate and rich masonry of the exterior, which had suffered from time and weather, has been renovated entirely. The subjects of thesculp- tured groups are, for the most part, taken from the Old Testament. LOUVAIN Leeann. . H. de Suéde. . S. Gertrude. S. Jacques. . S. Pierre. . Hetel de Ville. . liniversity. S. Michael.- . S. Quentin. ugmwumwm outside the Mcchlin gate, goes by the name of Caesar’s Castle, though it did . not exist till 890, when the King Arnulf caused it to be built as a barrier against the invasion of the Northmen. Edward III. of England spent the winter of 1338 with his queen, in the castle, and the Emp. Charles V. and his sister were edu- cated here by Dean Hadrian Boyens, afterwards Pope Hadrian VI. A high Statues (in number about 250) are ’ placed in the niches of the 3 facades and the towers. The two lower rows 1 are reserved for celebrated persons 1 born at Louvain, or who have rendered f eminent serviCes to the town, and the ! upper for sovereigns. The interior ' of the old Hall is of no great interest, i but includes on the 2nd floor a small Museum of local antiquities, frag- ments of the original sculpture ems 186 ploycd in the facade, a stone model of the design for St. Peter’s ch., and some inditfercnt pictures. The *Church of St. Peter, opposite the Town Hall, was founded in 1010; but having been twice destroyed by fire, the existing building is not older 1 than 1430. It was intended to have. a l central spire of 500 ft., besides lofty lateral towers. A highly ornamented Roodloft, between the choir and nave, is in the richest Flamboyant Gothic (date 1410). In front of it hangs a chandelier of wrought iron—the work of Quentin Matsys, who was probably born at Louvain about 1-150. Under one of the arches on the N. side of the high altar is an elaborate Taber— nacle of sculptured stone to contain the Host. It is a hexagon in plan, 50 ft. high, and dates from 1450. In the 2nd chapel behind the choir is a handsome Renaissance tomb of 1559 (on the wall), and a remarkable *paint- ing by Steiu'Iant—the Martyrdom of St. Erasmus (Patron contre le mal du ventre, “ Patroon tegen dc Buykpyn ”), a horrible subject, but treated with great propriety; and in the 3rd eh. the Last Supper, a work of high merit (1467). Both bear the forged signa~ ture of Mending. The wings of this picture, representing Old Testament types of the subject, are at Munich and Berlin. 5th chapel: l’crhugcn, 4 paintings from the life of St. Mar- garet of Louvain. 6th chapel : R. ran der lVeg/deu, *Deposition; one of several replicas, which have given rise to much controversy. The. 0| iginal is probably at Madrid. Here also is the recumbent efligy in black marble of Henry I., duke of Brabant (1235), founderof the eh. 7th chapel: marble altar- rail, with relief of children playing at Sacraments (1709); on the next pier is a fine Renaissance monument of 1563. The Pulpit of Wood (1742) represents St. Peter on a rock and the Conversion of St. Paul, surmounted by palm-trees. The stricken horse and fallen rider are finely executed both in form and ex- pression. Tho carved woodwork of the main portals in the inside is Route 43.—mea'in : Churches. Sect. II remarkable (1560). The font, oi bronze, at the W. end of the nave, has an elaborate Gothic crane of iron attached to the wall near it, for tlu purpose of supporting the cover, no“ removed. The adjacent chapels or the N. side have marbles sculptured in the style of Louis XIV. In the 2nd chapel on S. side is ( blackened crucifix, which is believed to have caught a thief who once tried to steal it. The ornaments on the railing indicate that the chapel belongs to the guild of Armourers The 5th chapel has a picture 0: Memling‘s school, representing the consecration of a cook as bishop in 990. The few points of interest in this town are rather far apart, and the streets which lead to them radiate from the centre like spokes of a wheel. In the Rue de Bruxelles running W., is St. Jacques, which contains a fine stone tabernacle ol 1167 at the end of the N. aisle, fenced 011' by a handsome copper grille. forming 3 sides of an octagon (1568). In a chapel on the same side is a coloured wooden statue of St. Hubert, and in another on the S. are similar figures of SS. Laurence and Corneille, The bronze font and a chair of per- forated wood should also be observed, The traveller will save time by returning to the H. dc Ville (the by- streets being intricate and interrupted by canals) in order to visit, due. S. from that point, the University, fouli- ded in 1126, suppressed in 1797 by the French Republic. but re-esaiblished by the King of Holland in 1817. In 1834 it was resigned by the Govern- ment, and in 1835 re-crected from private resources as a Roman Catholic University. There are about 1800 students. In the 16th cent. it was considered the first university in Europe, and, being especially dis- tinguished as a school of Roman Catholic theology, it was then fre- quented by 0000 students. There were formerly ~13 colleges dependent upon the University: of these only about 20 now remain, and their funds have been much reduced. The 001‘ Bel gium. log-es du Pape, des Philosophes, du St. Esprit, &c., are sumptuous edifices of 18th-cent. architecture, and serve as boarding houses for many of the students. The Weavers’ Hall, erected in 1317, was appropriated to the service of the University, after its first owners were banished for their refractory conduct. It still exhibits traces of the opulence of its founders, and the old hall is curious and nearly un- altered. In the Library, which contains 70,000 vols. and several hundred valuable MSS., is a sculptured group of the Flood, by Gecrts (1839). A little further S, in the Rue Namur, is the ch. of St. Michael, in a house adjoining which a valuable and extensive Cabinet of Natural History has been arranged, by the exertions of Prof. van Beneden, Senior, of the Catholic University. The ch. of St. Quentin, at the S. extremity of the Rue Namur, contains little worthy of notice, except some well-carved coloured ‘ Stations ’ round the wainscoting. The late Gothic ch. of St. Gertrude, N. of the 11. do Ville, has magni- ficently *carved stalls of oak, the finest in Belgium, with detached groups and statues, and 28 exquisite reliefs from the life of the Saviour. The modern Ch. of St. Joseph, SE. of the Place du Peuple, has some good decorative carvings in wood. In the 14th cent, when Louvain was the capital of Brabant and residence of its princes, its Inhab. amounted to 150,000. Nearly half of them lived by the woollen manu- factures. The weavers here, how- ever, as elsewhere, were a turbulent race; and their rulers, being tyranni- cal and impolitic, banished, in 1382, a large number of them from the town, in consequence of a rising in which they had taken part, and during which they had thrown 17 of the magistrates out of the windows of the Town-house on to the points of pikes. Many of the exiles took refuge in England, bringing with them their industry and I Route 43.—Boortmeerbcck — Tcrmonde. 187 independence; and, very much to the advantage of our country, established in it those woollen manufactures which have left all others in the world far behind. Louvain is famed at present for its beer, which is not, however, of a kind likely to be appreciated by the English traveller. It may be tasted at the Brewers’ Guild, a line mansion, in the Elizabethan style, opposite the H. de Ville. Here is the largest Bell Foundry in Belgium, that of M. Sever-in van Aerschode. Near Louvain, in 891, the East Frankish king, Arnulf, won over the Northmen a mighty victory, which for ever put an end to their inroads in these parts. Louvain is a stat. on the main line between Antwerp and Charleroi (Rte. 54), and on that between Brussels and Liege (Rte. 53). The line for Ghent runs N.W., at some distance from the 1. bank of the Dylc, to . 10 m. Boortmeerbeek Stat., whose ch. has an altarpiece by Tcniers, and 16 m. Malines Junct. Stat. (Rte. 40). Rly. N. to Antwerp, S. to Brussels (Rte. 47). Our line turns due W., and crosses the Louvain canal, the Senne, and the VVillebroeck canal, to 22 m. Londerzeel J unct. Stat. (Rte. 59). 2 in. further is a second (Western) stat, bearing the same name. , 30 m. Baesrode (Sud) Stat. There is another stat. (Nerd) on the line towards Puers (Rte. 44). 33 m. Termonde (Dendermonde) Junct. Stat. (8:300). In a room at the old Stork Inn took place a secret meeting between Wm. I. Prince of Orange, Egmont, Hoorn, and Lewis of ENassau, to concert measures for resisting the tyranny of Philip II. lin 1506. Termondc is a primitive } Brabant town and a strong fortress on gthe rt. bank of the Schelde, at its junction with the Dender. By means ‘of sluices the surrounding country can be laid under water. Louis XIV., who, along with his army, had been nearly drowned in attempting its siege~ 188 in 1667, when told that Marlborough was about to besiege it, replied, “ he must have an army of ducks to take it." Nevertheless, owing to a drought of 7 weeks, the garrison were obliged to surrender unconditionally to the English, in 1706. The Ch. of Notre Dame (1388), surmounted by an oc- tagon tower, contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shepherds, by Van Hyde; a Virgin and Saints by Crag/er; and an ancient font sculptured out of a square block. The house of Tcniers the younger is still pointed out, Rue de l‘Eglise. Coarse cottons are made here, and detached Forts have been constructed for the defence of the place. Rly. N.W. to Lokeren, S. to Alost, and SE. to Brussels (Rte. 50); N. to St. Nicolas (Rte. ~10); N.E. to Antwerp (Rte. 44). The Alost line turns off at 34 m. Audeghem J unct. Stat, and we continue W. to 41 m. Sohellebelle Stat, whence Rte. 32 is followed as far as 51 11]. Ghent Southern Stat. (C. 5) (Rte. 32). ROUTE 44. ANTWERP T0 GHENT, BY TERMONDE. 43 111. RAIL. This line traverses the populous suburb of Berchcm to J: m. Vieux-Dieu Junct. Stat, for ‘Malincs (Rte. 17), where it turns SW. to 11 111. Boom J unct. Stat. (11,000), on the rt. bank of the Rupel, a short chan- nel which conducts the united waters of the Nethe, Dyle, and Senne into the Sehelde. Rly. S. to Willcbroeck (Rte. Routes'44, Ala—Antwerp to Ghent. Sect. II. 59). The river is crossed, and a marshy tract ensues as far as 15 m. Puers J unct. Stat, where the line is crossed between St. N icolaé and Malines (Rte. 40). At 21 m. Baesrode (Sud) Stat. we join Rte. 13, and follow it through (24- In.) Termondc to 3 in. Ghent Southern Stat. (Rte. 0 O ROUTE 45. ANTWERP T0 GIIENT, BY ST. NICOLAS FERRY-BOAT AND RAIL. 31 in. Ticket ofiice on the Quai St. Mi~ chael (G. 6). Passengers are embarked in a steam ferry-boat, which plies across the Schclde every ,1; hr. The best view of Antwerp is obtained from this point. The Schelde is nearly 500 yards wide here, and deep in proportion. For 3 years, 1831~33, the whole district, and even the high road, lay many feet under water, introduced by cutting the dykes above the Téte dc Flandre during the siege of Antwerp. 12 Dutch gun-boats floated over the polders, or fields, which are many feet lower than the level of the river at high- water. The coming and ebbing tides covered the surface with sand; and the ground, deprived of all vegetation, for a time remained a barren morass, interspersed with pools. The repairs of this breach cost 2 millions of francs. The train starts from the Station. de ll’aes, 011 the 1. bank of the Schelde. 3 in. Zwyndreoht Stat, where one of the outlying forts of Antwerp is passed on the l. ‘ Belgium. 6 n1. Beveren Stat. (7500), with 3. ch. worth notice, and large manufac- tories of lace. Hereabouts we enter the Waesland, one of the most popu- lous districts, the best cultivated, and the most productive for its extent in all Europe. At the time of the civil wars in Flanders it was nothing more than a bare and open heath. At pre- sent there is not an inch of ground which is not rendered productive in the highest degree: every field re- ceives as much care and attention as a garden; and the natural soil, little better than barren sand, has been covered artificially with the richest mould. (See § 16.) Though the coun- try is flat, it is far from uninteresting, being varied with large villages and neat farms, covered with beautiful cattle, the richest and closest fields of corn or crops of flax, and inhabited by a healthy population. The district of St. Nicolas, perhaps the most thickly peopled in Europe in proportion to its extent, numbers 5210 Inhab. upon every square league. The mode of farming pursued in this district is worthy the attention of every agricul- turist. The land is singularly sub- divided among a great number of small proprietors. 12 in. St. Nicolas Juliet. Stat. (26,000), said to have the largest mar- ket of flax in the world. Its great Square is scarcely big enough to hold the crowd assembled on market-day (Thursday). One of the churches is decorated with paintings by Belgian artists, Gufl'ens, Swerts, &c., and is worth a visit. In the modern llotel de Ville is a Museum of Antiquities from the Waesland. Rly. to Terneuzen, Ma- lines, and Termonde (Rte. 40). 19 m. Lokeren J unct. Stat. (18,000), on the Durme. The Ch. of St. Lau- i'ent'ius, 17th cent, has a tine pulpit and confessional, and some pictures. There are extensive bleaching- grounds here. Rly. N.W. to Salzaete, SE. to Termonde (Rte. 50). 27 m. Loochristy Stat. The castle, Route 46.4Antwerp to iTz'lbm-i']. 189 at some distance on the rt., an in- teresting specimen of the domestic architecture of the 16th cent, is surrounded by a wide moat, crossed by a drawbridge. It was once a hunting- seat of the Bishops of Ghent. 31 in Ghent Stat, near the New Béguinage (A. 4). - ROUTE 46. ANTWERP TO TILBURG, BY HERENTHALS AND TURNHOU’I‘. Passing (4 1m.) Viewed-Dim Stat. (Rte. 44), the rly. runs S. to 7 1n. Contich E. Stat. (Rte. 47), and turns E. to 11 in. Lierre Junet. Stat. (17,000). The noble Church of *St. Gummar, the perfection of late Gothic (1425—1557), contains an exquisite flamboyant mod- loft, restored creditably. The Mar- riage of the Virgin, a fine work of Mending, Was a gift to the eh. from the Archduke Philip of Austria, and 3 of the fine stained-glass windows were given by the Emperor Maximilian. The \V. tower, square below and octa- gon above, has lost its spire by light- ning. In the porch is a beautiful arcade. The Hotel de Ville, of Renaissance date, has a carved wooden staircase, and an exceedingly pictur- esque tower of 1369. Rly. S. to Aerschot (Rte. 54). Lierre may be also reached by direct line from Antwerp, avoiding Contich (sec Rte. 77). 23 m. Hérenthals Junct. Stat. St. Waltrude’s Ch. has some painted 190 glass, 9. fine carved altarpieee of the Martyrdom of St. Crispin, by Rae- phorst, 1470, and a carved aumbry. Bly. S. to Aerschot (Rte. 77); E. to Roermond. 3% m. Turnhout Stat. A town of 15,000 Inhab., once a- hunting-seat of the Dukes of Brahant. It has alarge Church and a Palm's (le J ustz‘cc, which includes part of a castle built in the 15th cent. by Maria Duchess of Gel- ders. Leeches are reared here. 51 m. Tilburg Junct. Stat. Rly. E. to Boxtel; W. to Breda (Rte. 16); NE. to Hertogenbosch (Rte. 18). A steam tramway also runs from the Borgcrhout Stat. at Antwerp (A. 8) to (16 m.) Oostmalle, with branch to (8 m. N.) Hoogstraeten. so called from the Roman highway (Strata) which passed through it. The very hand- some Ch. contains monuments to the noble family of Lolaing, 12 painted windows, old tapestry, a braSs font, and richly carved stalls. The chateau of the Lolaings is now the Poor— house. 2 m. E. is Wortel, a pauper R if ‘m‘. u (M . a ' ' 'a ‘- »a_ :1“ p . biog? . gm Q: E Ax 3mg OFTHE DANE a? WATERLQQE Scalp 01“ Yards 7 700 200 .900 o 5 N '7“ mm: Yu‘. A RN‘i \ 2 . kn (Hid ,H__‘, To 31$ng (9/ “~' 39.114 R e f‘e r en 0 e In!) I‘a w" A LLI E S m ‘ PR U S S I A N S L] ._I FR E N C H a Momunenz‘s erected Jim‘e iht Bdlflti I.Belgi,anLion, 2VHnnm’er1'Im Immument 3.M071umwzl of'tbl. (I'm-dz»! 4.13:1wsz'an Mmuunemt . londmz. ,Juhu [mu-ray, Allltilllcll‘lf Street]. Edw“ Wulim'. [Miro lthe Duke’s work at Hougomont and . ’La Haye Sainte made it stronger. Route for seeing the Field—Either drive to Hongomont and thence walk to the Lion and Haye Sainte (alto- . gether about 2 m.), or drive to the - Lion and thence walk to Hougomont and Hayc Sainte and back. La. Belle 'Alliance and Planchenois may be in- , eluded if time permit. Hougomont is the most interesting spot, and the best view is from the Lion. The road from Brussels to Charleroi intersected the 2 armies, or, so to speak, separated the l. wing of the British (under General Picton) and 5 rt. wing of the French from the main " bodies of their respective armies. To render the declivity more gradual, the road has been cut through the crest of the ridge several feet deep, so as to form a sort of hollow way. At this point 2 Monuments have been erected close to the roadside; that on the right, a pillar to the memory of Col. Gordon, bearing a touching epitaph, well worth perusal; that on the left, an obelisk in honour of the Hano- verian officers of the German Legion who fell on the spot. Hercabouts the high road is tra- versed nearly at right angles by a small country cross-road. During the first part of the action the Duke of Wellington stood in the angle formed by the crossing of these 2 reads, and on the rt. of the highway, at a little distance from a solitary elm, called the Wellington Tree, from an un- founded report that the Duke had placed himself beneath it during the action. The Duke knew better than to post himself and his staff close to an object which must inevitably serve as a mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon the strength of this story, 110w- evcr, the elm, after being mutilated and stripped by relic-hunters, was cut down and sold, some time after the battle, to an Englishman. About halfway down in the hollow which separated the 2 armies, and in which the most bloody combats took place, is the farm of La Haye Sainte, close to the roadside on the rt. It iBelgiuili. Route til—Monuments ; La Belle Alliance. 219 was occupied by the soldiers of the German Legion, and gallantly de- fended until they were literally cut to pieces, their ammunition having become exhausted in consequence of their commanding officer having neg- lected to form an opening in the rear, through which he might receive fresh supplies. The French “ got pos- session of it about 2 o’clock; but they never advanced further on that side.” —Despatches, xii. 610. A terrible carnage took place in the house and garden, and the building was riddled with shot. Not far off, on the opposite side of the road, avast accumulation of bodies of men and horses are buried in one common grave. It was near this spot that the brave General Picton was killed, and General Sir \Villiam Pon- sonby wounded. 5 Scotch regiments were engaged in this part of the fight. If we now proceed across the valley and up the Opposite slope, we reach the farm of La Belle Alliance, a solitary white house, on the l. of the read, now a poor public-house. It was occu- pied by the French, whose lines were drawn up close behind it; though towards the end of the engagement Napoleon in person marshalled his imperial guards in front of it for the final charge. Napoleon's place of observation during a great part of the battle was nearly on a line with La Belle Alliance, at some distance on the rt. of the road. The Prussians have erected a cast- iron monument 2 m. on the 1., at the side of the road by which they came upon the field, in memory of their fellow-countrymen who fell here. Their loss on the 18th amounted to nearly 7000; it occurred chiefly in the vicinity of Planchenois, a village on the l. of the road, beyond La Belle Alliance, which was stormed and retaken 3 times. It has been falsely asserted that Bliicher met the Duke after the battle at La Belle Alliance; but the fact is, that he did not overtake the Duke till he was 2 m. beyond the field, at the Maison Rouge, or Maison du Roi, 220 on the road to Genappe, at 10 RM. This error, which is of moment in re- lation to the time and amount of the Duke’s success in forcing the French )osition, is perpetuated by Maclisc in is fresco in the House of Lords. In spite of the fatignes of the day, the Duke had pursued the French in person till long after dark; and when Col. Harvey, who accompanied him, pointed out the danger he ran of being fired at by stragglers from behind the hedges, he exclaimed, “ Let them fire away: the victory is gained, and my life is of no value now.” The foregoing enumeration of the various localities of the field has been made in the order in which a traveller would pass them in following the high road from Brussels. If he intend to turn aside and examine the field more minutely, the following descrip- tion may assist him :— Thc Mound of the Belgie Lion is by far the best station for surveying the field. At its base is the interesting Museum of the late Scrgt.—l\[ajor Cotton, in the well-kept Hotel (in Musée. The Mound is a modern tumulus, 200 ft. high, beneath which the bones of friends and foes lie heaped indiscriminately together. A flight of steps leads up to the top. The Lion was cast by Coekerill of Li‘ege, and is intended to stand over the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded. The tail of the Lion was damaged by some French soldiers on their way to the siege of Antwerp. The present appearance of the field differs eonsiderably from what it was at the time of the battle, owing to the excavation made along the front of the British position, to obtain earth for this artificial mound. The ridge of Mont St. Jean has been considerably reduced in height ; and the. spot where the Duke of Wellington stood is quite cut away; the ground near being lowered several feet by the removal of the earth. This may be seen by observing how much the base of the Hanoverian monument rises above the present level of the ground. Route 62.‘— Waterloo : Mount of the Belgic Lion. Sect. 1 From the top of the Mound it w be perceived that the ground is perfectly open and undulating pla The British force was disposed 2 lines along one of these undu tions; the foremost line occupiedt brow of the eminence, and was par protected by a hedge, running fry Mont St. Jean to Ohain, which gs the name to the farm of La Ht Sae'nte; the second stood a little w behind, on the reverse of the s10} so as to be partly sheltered from t enemy’s fire. The British were i parated by the shallow valley abc mentioned——varying from 500 to 5 yards in breadth—from the Frent who were. posted on the opposite rid; The situation of both armies was many parts within point-blank ran of their opponents’ artillery. The position of the British from to 1. did not much exceed a mile a a half—“ small theatre for such tragedy ; ” yet on this limited front ( its commander place .and maneem an army of 54,000 men, a remarkal instance of concentration of force. was drawn up in a sort of curve, suit the ground along the heigl and the rt. wing extended as far Merbc Brainc. The rt. flank of t centre stood 400 yards behind t house of Hougomont, which \i very strongly occupied; the l. of t centre was posted at a short distar behind the farmhouse of La Ha Saintc, which stood nearer the Alli than the French position, and v also occupied and fortified as well its small size and the time we! admit. The distance between the 2 far of Hougomont and La Haye Sail is 1300 yards. The French colun could not pass between them withc being exposed to a flank fire, nor ( Napoleon think it prudent to lea 2 such posts in his rear in the pi session of his enemy; and his fi effort, previous to advancing agaii the English line, was to make hims master of them. The British army remained duri the whole day firm in its positic and the troops the latter part 0ft : elgium. :i n y formed into squares, received on ' is ridge, in front, and on each side "of the ground now occupied by the , ,Mound, the furious charges of the . , French heavy cavalry, who were on y the plateau between the 2 high roads 2" nearly 2 hr., all firing having ceased : ion both sides. At the time of the '- appearance of the Prussians not a \ square had been broken or shaken; J the British had not swerved an inch backwards, but were rather in ad- ;. vanee of their first position. The “a Duke says, writing to Lord Beresford, July 2, 1815, “Napoleon did not ma- ' noeuvre at all. He just moved for- ‘. ward in the old style in columns, and ;: was driven ofi' in the old style. The .5 only difference was, that he mixed .: Cavalry with his infantry, and sup— , , ported both with an enormous quantity of artillery. I had the infantry for - some time in squares, and we had the French cavalry walking about as I if they had been our own. I never . saw the British infantry behave so if well.” . Far on the 1., in the direction of ‘. Wavre, are seen the woods through 7 which the Prussians first advanced to 1 the battle. The ”Chateau of Hougomont or , Goumont, about 4 in. from \Vaterloo i .- ch., 1% in. from Mont St. Jean, 30 min. walk from Braine l’Alleud Stat, and l m. from La IIaye Sainte, is decid- edly the most interesting spot in the field of Waterloo, not only for its importance in the history of the battle, but because it is almost un- altered and still exhibits marks of the dreadful contlict (adm., 50 0.). It formed, in fact, the key of the British position, and the possession of it _, would have enabled Napoleon to turn ;‘ the English right flank. It was on this account that he directed his utmost efl'orts towards it. At least 4» 12,000 men, commanded by his brother , Jerome, were brought at different 3 times against it, and the fierce attacks .t continued with hardly any intermis- ' 7 sion during the whole of the day. It is '; , an old—fashioned Flemish chateau, with i Walled gardens and farm ofiices at- Route 62.—0hdteau of Hougomont. 221 tachedto it. Had these buildings been formed for a fortress to resist the kind of assault which they endured, they could scarcely have possessed greater advantages; being surrounded on all sides by strong walls, which the Duke himself caused to be further fortified by breaking loopholes in them, through which the garrison, if it may be so called, directed the fire of their musketry. But, notwithstanding its strength, so furious were the attacks, and so disproportionably great the number of assailants, that it could not possibly have held out, but for the bravery of the Guards by whom it was maintained. The wood, orchard, and kitchen-garden were several times in the possession of the French, but they never succeeded in forcing the walled enclosure which surrounded the house. This little citadel, though set on fire by the howitzers and almost gutted by the flames, was maintained to the last by the Coldstream Guards. At the beginning of the battle the house stood in the centre of a wood, within sturdy ox-hedges which con- cealed it from the French; but the trees were so mutilated by cannon-shot during the action, that few of the original ones remain. The old house set on fire by French shells, except that it has been rc-root‘ed, remains little altered; the outhouses still ex~ hibit a shattered and patched-up ap- pearance; and the brick walls of the orchard retain the loopholes formed by the Guards to fire through; whilst on the outside they present a broken surface crumbling to the touch, from the etfeet of the French musketry so long and vainly directed against them. “ The Belgian yeoman’s garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose destinies hung on the posses- sion of this house.” In the little chapel is shown a crucifix, saved (as the peasants say) by miracle from the flames. which, after destroying all about it, stopped on reaching the foot of the cross. The force which Napoleon brought into the field amounted, by his own confession, to 72,000 men: 549000 men composed the whole of the 222 Duke of Wellington’s army actually engaged; of these only 32,000 were British or of the German Legion. The position of Waterloo had been deliberately chosen, and surveyed, weeks before. It has been often asserted that the Duke of Wel- lington was taken by surprise at Waterloo, and that he first heard the news of the advance of the French in a ball-room; This is not the fact: the intelligence was brought to the Duke on June 15, by the Prince of Orange, who found him within 100 yards of his quarters in the park at Brussels, about 3 o’clock; and by 5 the same evening orders had been sent to all the divisions of the British army to break up their cantomnents, and move 011 the l. of Quatre-Bras. A proposal was made to put off the ball intended to be given by the Duchess of Rich- mond that evening at Brussels; but it was thought better to let it proceed, and thus to keep the inhabitants free from immediate alarm. The Duke therefore desired his principal oitieers to be present, but to take care to quit the ball-room as soon after 10 as possible: he himself stayed till 12, and set off for the army at 6 next morning. On the morning of the 16th, the Duke, having finished the disposition of his forces, rode across the country to Bliicher, at Brye, being unwilling to trust to any one the im- portant point of concerting measures for the co-operation of the Prussians. Both connnanders knew that Napo- leon’s main attack on that day would be upon Bliicher; therefore their agreement was, not that Bliicher should support Wellington, but that Wellington should support Bliieher. This support Wellington here pro- mised to give Bliieher, unless he Were attacked himself ; and Napoleon, foreseeing this contingency, detached Ney to keep “'cllington occupied at Quatre-Bras, while he himself fell upon Bliicher at Ligny. Now as Bliieher upon his retreat from Ligny was clever enough not to let the French get between him and Wel- lington, he was able to give l’t’elliiig- ten the needt‘ul and expected help, Route 62.— Waterloo : The Battle. Sect. 1: upon the 18th at Waterloo. Anothq common error respecting this batt is that the British were on the poi] of being defeated when the Pru; sians arrived: that is sufficient] refuted by the testimony of tt Prussian general, Miilfling, who e: pressly says that “the battle eoul have afforded no favourable result 1 the enemy, even if the Prussians ha never come up.” The Prussian arm was expected to join the British at 5 but it appears from'Bliicher’s despatc that it was half—past 4 before a gu was fired by them, and it was hal past 7 before they were in suflicier force to make any impression on th French rt. At that hour Napoleo had exhausted his means of attacl He had no force in reserve but th 4 battalions of the Old Guard. Thes gave way on the advance of th British line. The story of the Duke’ having thrown himself into the middl of a square of infantry during th charges of the French cavalry is als a pure fiction. It is a fact worthy of notice, tha in 1705 the Duke of Marlboroug was within an inch of fighting th French nearly on the same ground a Wellington. His head-quarters wcr at Frisehermont, and the French wer posted across the Brussels road. H was thwarted, however, by the pig headed obstinaey or cowardice of th‘ Dutch commissioners who accom panied his army. K' .- .4 iv .. . .. 5:1,: 746;», z,,. . .4. _ . F Belgium. ROUTE 63. CHARLEROI TO MONS. 35 m. RAIL. This rly. runs W. by Marchiemre and 3 m. Marchienne-au—Pont J unct. Stat. (Rte. 49) to 10 m. Piéton Junct. Stat. Rly. SJV. to (9 m.) JlIcrbes Ste. IlIarie (Rte. (39), and (12 in.) F aura/Jule: (see below). 13 m. Mariemont Stat, near which is a ruined Chateau of Mary of Hun- gary (1548), burnt by Henry II. of France in 1554. From 15 m. Haine St. Pierre Junet. Stat. a loop line runs N. to (3 m.) La Louvz'ére (Rte. 58), while our rly. turns S.W., and follows Rte. 69 to 24m. Faurwulx J unct. Stat, whence it proceeds N.W. to 35 m. Mons J unct. Stat. (Rte. 57). ROUTE 64. BRUSSELS T0 thmrnuue, BY OTTIGNIES, NAML'R, AND ARLON—GREAT LUXEM- Bitno RAILWAY. 137 m. Leaving Brussels by the Luxem- burg Stat. (E. 3), though all the through trains start also from the Gare du Nord, the line trends SE. to Route 64.—Brussels to Luxemburg. 223 1 m. Etter‘beek J unct. Stat. [Branch rly. t0 (8 m. E.) Tervueren, a royal chateau, erected at the public expense for the Prince of Orange. It contains a fine specimen of inlaid wooden flooring. The royal stables were transferred from this place to Gembloux (see below) in 1857.] Hence, skirting the site of the nearly extirpated forest of Soignies, we reach 4: m. Boitsfort Stat, a favourite resort of the people of Brussels. *I’leasant walk back to the capital through the forest and Beis de la Cambre. 6 m. Groenendael Stat, celebrated for its royal picnic in the summer of 1553, when the Emperor Charles V.; his son Philip, King of Naples; his daughter Mary of Austria, Queen of Bohemia, with her husband Maxi- milian; his sister Mary, Queen Dowa- ger of Hungary, and Governor of the Low Countries; Eleanor of Austria, Queen of France, widow of Francis I. ; and Muley Hassan, King of Tunis; all lunehed together under a forest tree. 9 In. La Hulpe Stat.,frem which the Lion on the field of Waterloo is visible for a moment to the rt. In the village is a paper—mill. 12 m. Rixensart Stat. Close by, on the 1., is a seat of the Comte de llIérode. * 15 m. Ottignies Junct. Stat. (Buf- fet), an important rly. centre (Rte. 5%). The country becomes more un- dulating, and is, perhaps, the richest in Belgium. 18 m. Mont St. Guibert Stat. Here Blfieher turned aside after the battle of Ligny, and eluded the French pur- suit. The chateau of Birbaz’a;, sur- rounded by pretty gardens, stands on the rt. 24 m. Gembloux Junct. Stat. The town (2320) lies in the hollow : it has some trade in cutlery. ()n the rt. is a 224 Route 64.—Rochefort—Han sur Lcsse. Sect. 1] large brick building—a Benedictine abbey down to 1792—now a School of Agriculture. Rly. N.E. to Landen, S.W. to Fleurus (Rte. 53); SE. to Tamines (Rte. 49). 28 In. St. Denis Bovesse Stat. Near this ir0n~ore is quarried to supply the furnaces on the Sambrc and Mense. Through several deep rock—cuttings the rly. approaches Namur, emerging on a lofty embankment into the bean- tiful valley of the Sambre. *Vicw over the city. 37 m. Namur J unct. Stat. (Buffet) (Rte.49), whence several lines diverge. Our rly. crosses the Mouse, on a bridge of 3 timber arches resting on stone piers, commanding a magnifi- cent view of Namur, the Citadel, and the rivers Meuse and Sambre. 53 m. Ciney J unct. Stat. (3700), formerly capital of the Condro: (Con~ drusi of Caesar), or country between the Mouse and Ourthe. Rly. NE. to Huy (Rte. '73). Coach daily in 2 hrs. to (10 m. S.W.) De'nant. Fare, 1 fr. 50 c. The 011., rebuilt after destruc- tion by a hurricane in the 17th cent., retains only its ancient lSth-ccnt. tower, and a font of the same period, with some curious sculptures. Thread- ing the Forest of Ardenncs, the line cuts through numerous beds of slate, and passes a wild hilly country, with charming views. 67 m. Marloie J unct. Stat. Ely. N. by the valley of the Ourthe to (+1 in.) Liege (Rte. 65). The line now de- scends rapidly, and the valley of the Wammc opens out finely to the l. 70 m. Jemelle J nnct. Stat.,avillage with marble and limestone quarries and lime-kilns, at the junction of the Lemme with the Wammc. [Rly. W. up the valley of the Lesse to (5 m.) Eprave, where is a much-frequented grotto (fec, 2132). Half way lies Rochefort Stat. (2500), once capital of the Ardenncs, an ancient and pic- turesque town, partly surrounded by old walls and surmounted bya ruine Castle, where Lafayette was mad prisoner by the Austrians in 1795 The Gothic H. de Ville (1865) is ( brick, with stone facings. The neighbourhood abounds wit charming walks and News, but i chiefly visited for the sake of it curious *caverns. One of the fines is on the property of M. Collignoi who discovered it, and has mad it accessible by means of cxccllm paths. Adm. 5 frs. each, or half th: sum when the party numbers 20. hurried visit requires nearly 2 hrs and the finest halls, one of which : 300 ft. high, are illuminated by mag nesium light. Omnibus in 1 hr. to (5 1n. S.W.) ti: *grotto of Han snr Lesse. A carriag and pair from Rechefort and bac cost 10 francs. The road follows ft 2 m. the valley of the Lemme, an then strikes S. The omnibus avoit the town, but the pedestrian shoul pass through it, in order to procure guide at the Inn. The entrance 1 the grotto lies 1% in. SE. of the tow] Adm. 7 frs.; 2 persons, 10 frs. Tl' guide expects a fee, and endeaveu: to extort additional francs by tirin pistols to produce an echo, 6:0. Tl] numerous chambers furnished wit stalactitcs, some of great beantj though now much blackened by tercl smoke, have been faneit‘ully name Boudoir de Proserpine, Choux Flcu Draperic, Tete dc Socrates, &c.; b1 the finest is the *Salle du D6111 about 500 ft. sq., and 180 ft. above t]: surface of the Lesse. The river i spring and earlysunnncr often ris< so high into the Cave so as to 1‘0H(l( it inaccessible, for which reason ti 3 autumn months (Aug. to Oct.) :11 best adapted for the visit. The ga lcries traverse the Grotto in a gencr: direction from S. to N.W., and visito: emerge in a boat at a point only] min. distant from the town. N 0 pm paratien ofdrcss is necessary, as tt paths are broad and only slight] muddy. At the Perte de la. Lesse, % 11 SE. of the entrance, the river les< itself in a strikin g rush underground. Z TiBelgium. ‘ .2“! t ', Italian tugflgfifigvmr . v ‘ ,' life. 73 m. Forriéres Stat. 3 m. E. lies Nassogne, a finely situated village . with an ancient collegiate ch... founded by Pepin in honour of St. Monon, a ‘ Scotchman, the apostle and martyr of the district. Here resided the Emp. Valentinian in the summer of 372, during which time he published three constitutions, still preserved in the , Justinian code. 76 m. Grupont Stat. Coach W. ‘ through (3 m.) weuin, to (16 m.) Beauraz'ng (Rte. 66). The Rly. enters the picturesque valley of the Lemme, . and passes in a curve round the grand old Castle of Mirwart (to the 1.), with 4 towers at the angles, and a donjon on the S. side. It was twice destroyed by the Bishops of Licge on account of forays on their territory committed by its owners. 83 m. Poix Stat. [Steam tramways , through the narrow and striking Val de l’oix to (-1 m. E.) St. Hubert, a miserable town of2550 Inhab., origin- ally planted in the midst of the great forest of St. Hubert, new cleared. ‘ The Abbey Church is in the Gothic ’; style of the 14th cent, defaced by an W. front of 1702. It has double aisles, vaulted throughout; .> the choir ends in a chevet, and is con- ' siderably raised above aerypt of older .1 various marbles. patron of hunters and sportsmen, was date: it is internally adorned with St. Hubert, the am about 656, of noble race and a kinsman of Pepin d’Herstal. He was guilty of the profane act of hunting on Good Friday. \Vhilc thus engaged, a stag suddenly pre- sented itself to him, bearing a cross betwoen its horns. The apparition. recalled him from his evil mode of Renouneing the world, he entered theabbey of Stable, and even- tually succeeded his friend St. Lam- bert as Bishop of Maustrieht. which see he transferred to Lilxge. He died in 727, having acquired such a degree of sanctity as to work miracles by his garments; so that even a shred of .- his mantle possesses virtue to cure . madness and hydrophobic, it placed [Belgium 1888.] Route 64.—-—Poiw—-Arlon. 225 yon the patient's head. The conse- quence was an immense resort of pil- grims, continued to the present day, and great influx of wealth. The Saint was translated in 827 to the Benedictine Abbey of Andaz'n, thence- forth called St. Hubert. In 1850, a handsome altar-tomb, with 8 bas- reliet's of events from his life, and a reclining effigy in marble—one of the finest works of W Geefs—was erected by King Leopold I. In the Tre’sor is the Saint’s miracle-working Stole, and other relics—his horn, crosier, and comb. On the Feast of St. Hu- bert (Nov. 3), dogs are brought to be sprinkled by the priests with holy water, in the chapel of the saint. (Sec ‘Quentin Durward.’) The re- maining abbatial buildings are now occupied as a governmental Refor- matory.] 91 m. Libramont J unct. Stat, where the line is crossed between Bertrix and Gouvy (Rte. 68). About a mile SW. is the village of Recogne (Rte. 72). 97 m. Longlier Stat. 2 in. SW. lies Neilfchdteau, an uninteresting market-town of 1800 Inhab., on the Wavre, near which are large slate- quarries. 107 m. Marbehan J unct. Stat. Rly. to (20 m. S.) Lamorteau on the fron- tier, passing (16 m.) Virton (2500), a prettily situated town, entirely devoted. to agriculture. 120 In. Arlon Junct. Stat. (7570), a rapidly increasing town, the Roman Oi'olaunum. There are interesting Roman remains in the Museum. The partition of the Grand Duchy of Luxemburg, by the Treaty of 1831, gave two-thirds of it to Belgium, and Arlon is the capital of the Belgian part of the ru'ovince. Fine view from the terrace of the Capucliin convent. From Arlen to the trontier German is the language of the inhabitants. Rly. S. to (10 m.) Athus (Rte. 72). The Luxemburg line continues E. to Q 226 123 m. Autelbas Stat, serving also the village of Autelkaut, where there ‘ is an ancient ch. The rly. crosses the frontier at 126 In. Bettingen Junct. Stat. Custom—house. Rly. N. to Ettelbriick, S. to Pétange (Rte. 68). 137 m. LUXEMBURG Junct. Stat. (Bufi'et). Tramway to the hotels, nearly a mile distant. Travellers who pass this place at night miss one of the most remarkable sights in Europe. Its *situatiou is absolutely unique, and the views from its clifi‘s and viaducts 1ifnarvellous. Carriage for 2 hours, 10 rs. Luxemburg (17,000), originally Liitzelburg, was formerly one of the strongest fortresses in the world, but was dismantled, pursuant to Treaty, in 1867, and the ramparts converted into *I’ublic Gardens, of unusual extent and beauty. It is capital of a grand dnchy belonging to Holland. The tramway crosses the 111agnifi- cent *Petrus Viaduct, of 26 lofty arches, built over the suburb of Grund. The road mounts gradually high above the 1. bank of the Petrus- baeh, and leads direct to the Park, the tramway diverging rt. towards the centre of the town. The upper town is perched 011 a level plateau, joined to the neighbour- ing country only on the W., where it is bounded by the Park. On the other sides it is isolated by rocky gorges 200 feet deep, crossed by lofty viaduets, and watered by the streams of Petersbnrn and Alzette, in whose depths the industrious lower town, or suburbs of Grund. Clausen, and 111m: fenthal (with mills and dye-works). nestle. The communication betWeen the upper and lower towns is by flights of steps, 01 steep zig-zag streets. The defences, partlyD ex- cavated in the solid rock,we1e in- creased and improved by the succes- sive possessms of Luxenibnrg, by the Spaniards (1697), Austrians (1713), French (1681 and 17 95), and Dutch, rendering it, in the words of Carnot, Route 64.——Lua:emburg: Athénée. Sect. 1] “ la plus forte place (16 lEurope apre Gibraltar: — le seul point d’appt pour attaquer la France, du coté de l Moselle.” From the Schlossb’ru'cke which connects the suburb of Clause: on the NE. with the upper towr there is a striking View. The roadt Treves descends 0from this point i zigzags. The Grand Duchy of Luxembur was given to the King of Holland, 3 the Treaty of Vienna (1815), in cor sideration of his abandoning hi claim upon Nassau. It has bee always much coveted by France, es pecially after the battle of Sadow and the dissolution of the Germa Confederation. The Treaty of Londo (May, 1867), rendered it a neutrz state, and its protection was guaran teed by the 5 Great Powers. Th House of Luxemburg is highly di: tinguished in history ; it gave 4 king to Germany, Henry VII., Charles IV Wenceslans, and Sigmund, of Wh0] three were crowned emperors 2 Rome; John, son of the first—name the blind King of Bohemia, wt killed at Crécy in 1346. As tt territory is saved the expense of mail taining an army, the taxes are ligh and living cheap. The money use is indifl'erently French, German, ( Belgian, and the duchy only coir bronze pieces of the same value an denomination as the French. The metropolitan Ch. of N. Dam distinguished by its bulbous steepl was built by the Jesuits in 1618. '1 the l. on entering is the Mausoleu: of King John ot'Boheinia, from who; our Prince of Wales takes his mot (Ich dim) ; but his body, havir been 6 times removed, and at tl French Revolution transferred to museum, was at length confided ‘ the King of Prussia, and by him d1 posited in 1838 at Castel on the Sarr in Prussia. The finuies at the mom ment lepiesent the 0Holy Women an othe1s at the Sepulehre. Close to the ch. stands the Athééu with a Library of 60,000 vols. (u some valuable MSS., open to tl MAP OF THE ARDENNES 87131131133 ‘_ .74.".1" " . t ’ ‘ A: 7’ ,/,éV'aILL{I‘I)l a”) 53: ,2: 7% h:- 1‘21’2321") 1 . . can ${0uffctg Mr.“ ’ ° 9 .ern I. 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' u A 2 3 4 r, 6 7 '13“ 9'71“ {41$ Q‘ L‘s: a 7 a u m n 12 Rullh'Lp-s opgnthus —— In progress thus..------------ London: John LM¢n‘q)z Albenuzrie Street. F Belgium. public on week-days. In the H. de Ville is the Muse‘e Pescatore, a legacy of pictures and other works of art; and in the picturesque Maison Royale (1560), a little to the N.E., has been placed a collection of local antiquities and curiosities. worth a visit. The town is adorned with a bronze eques- trian statue of the Grand Duke William II. (1884); and in the Park, facing the boulevard du Prince, is a poor statue of the Princess Amelia of Saxe-Weimar. A peculiar dialect is spoken gener- ally among the lower classes at Lux— emburg, which appears to have little aflinity with any known tongue. ‘ Rly. N. to Libge and Spa (Rte. 68); S. to Thionville (Diedenhofen), Metz. and Strassburg. (See Handbook for N. Germany.) The line to (32 n1.) Tréves follows for some distance the course of the river Sire, bearing N.E., through charming scenery. Several chateau); are conspicuously placed on heights overlooking the stream. At 21 m. Mertert Stat., the Mosel val- ley is entered, and at 23 m. Wasserbilling J unct. Stat, the Prussian frontier is crossed at the bridge over the Saur. 25 m. Igel Stat. Rly. N.W. to Ettelbriiek (Rte. 68). From this point may be visited the *Igel monu- ment, 9. fine Roman work 75 ft. high, and visible from the rly. (See Hund- boolr for N. Germany.) The rly. crosses the Mosel to reach 27 m. Karthaus Junct. Stat, 011 the rt. bank, where the rly. from Saar- burg, Saarbruek, and Saarlouis falls in. [The village of Com, :1,- m. distant, at the junction of the Saar with the Mosel, derives its name from the Em- peror Constantine, who had a summer palace here, traces of which still exist in the foundations of brick walls, towers, 850. The Roman bridge over the Saar was blown up by the French in 167 5] Route 65.—Liége to Marloie. 227 32 m. Tréves Junct. Stat, E. of the ‘ town, on the rt. bank of the Mose]. (See Handbook for N. Germany.) ROUTE 65. mites T0 MARLOIE, BY THE VALE or THE OURTHE. 41 m. RAIL.—TBE ARDENNES. This line starts from Guillemins Stat. and is the direct route for La Roche, and all excursions in the heart of the Ardennes. It repeatedly crosses the river, and passes through tun- nels and deep cuttings; much of the scenery is, therefore, lost to travellers by Railway. 2 m. Angleur J unct. Stat. Our line here separates from that of the Vesdre (Rte. 53), turns S., and enters the bean- tiful *valley of the Ourthe. Between this Station and the next are succes- sively passed the chateaux of Beau- fraipont and Colonster on the 1., and that of Ancre on the rt. 6 m. Tilfi' Stat, a large village on rt. bank of the Ourthe, reached by an iron bridge. Holiday resort of the Liégeois. The Grotto (1% m. from the village, discovered in 1837) is worth inspection. Entrance 1 fr., costume, 35 0. Above the grotto is the C'hdteau do Brialmont. The original castle dated from the 13th cent. A little beyond Tilff, the Chriteau de Monceau is passed, the river is crossed, and a tunnel leads to 10 m. Esneux Stat. A long wind- ing road ascends to the town, with a. flight of steps for pedestrians. Esneux Q 2 ‘ 228 is finely situated, partly on, partly at the base of a high rocky promontory, round which the Ourthe flows in an abrupt curve 3 m. long. Near the ob. is the best point of view, a ledge of limestone rock commanding a bend of .the river. 12 m. Poulseur Slat. Above the village stands a ruined Castle, but the scenery is much disfigured by quar- ries. The villages of Poulseur and Montfort face each other on opposite sides of the river. Montfort Castle is reputed‘to have been the retreat of the Quatre Fils Aymon, during the siege by Charlemagne. Nothing now remains of the ancient fortress but a fragment of wall and portion of a moat. Huge quarries of gritstone now usurp the site its fortifications once occupied. Tramway to (5 m. E.) Sprimont. 14 m. Rivage Junct. Stat. [Rly. SE. to (14 m.) Stoumont, ascending the extremely picturesque *valley of the Ambléve. The line repeatedly crosses the river, sometimes by im- posing and lofty bridges. The rock scenery is particularly grand. Beyond (4 1n.) Martin-Rive Stat. rise the scanty ruins of Ambléve Castle, once a stronghold of William de la Mark, the ‘ Wild Bear of the Ardennes,’ im- ' mortalized by Scott in Quentin Dur- ward. This medizeval hero was born about the middle of the 15th cent, and early displayed tokens of ferocity by killing the chancellor of the Bp. of Liege, who had rebuked him for some youthful prank. The bp. expelled him from his dominions, and William took refuge at the court of Louis XI. of France, where he planned a scheme of revenge upon his former patron, headed an expedition into his coun- try, and slew the hp. with his own hand. For this feat the men of Libge elected him their general, in which capacity he invaded Brabant, but was defeated by the Archduke Maxumhan. He then returned to Libge, and de- vised schemes for alliance with other powers, by means of which the Aus- trians might be overcome; but Maxi. Route 65.—~—-Ambléve Valley—Remouchamps. Sect. II. milian bribed William’s friend, Fre- derick of Horn, to betray him, and he was beheaded at Maastrieht in his 40th year. The Quatre Fils Aymon, legendary heroes of a similar age, also resided in this castle. At (6 m.) Aywaille (3500), the best headquar- ters in the district, an elegant suspen- sion bridge connects the stat. with the town. Further on, the river is crossed on a fine viaduct to (8 m.) Ramon- champs Stat, another good central point for pedestrians, where is a grotto opened at the beginning of the pre- sent cent., but well known 100 years before. Adm. 2 frs.; costume, 1 fr. 50. 3 in. N. is the Etonnoir d’Adseuas, a funnel (or chantoir) through which the brook disappears, emerging after- wards at Remouchamps. Opposite the village, 011 the 1. bank of the river, rises the *chateau of Mont J ar- din, embosomed in foliage, and still inhabited. Facing it is the spoilt 13th cent. ch. of Dz'eupart, with a truncated spire. Below Remou- champs lies Sougné, at the foot of the lofty natural ramparts called Ila-id des Gattes, from which the French under Jourdan dislodged the Aus- trians under Latour, 18 Sept, 1794. Beyond Remouchamps the train enters a tunnel 680 yds. long to avoid a bend in the river, and crosses it to (9 m.) Noncereux Stat, opposite the pretty village of Sedoz. Fine walk back to Remouchamps across the hills. The rly. now recrosses the stream, and reaches the Fond des Quarreux, where the bed of the Am- bleve is choked up with boulders. The scenery continues highly attrac- tive all the way to (14 m.) Stoumont Stat, whence the rly. will be con- tinued to (20 In.) Trois Pants Stat. (Rte. 68).] Leaving Rivage, the main line crosses the Ambleve to 15 m. Comblain an Pont Stat, nearly a mile from the pretty village, which lies at the foot of an abrupt precipice. The tower of a demolished ch. rises picturesquely on a height, and the cemetery adjoining it com‘ t (2' Belglum. mands a beautiful view. The rly. traverses a tunnel to reach 17 m. Comblain-la-Tour Stat., where the Comblain rivulet falls in, and quarries again sadly disfigure the banks. Hence to 21 m. Hamoir Stat., a large village, with an old and modern bridge, beau- tifully situated. Tourists should not omit a visit to the miniature Valley of the Logne, and ruined castle of that name, within pleasant walking distance of Hamoir. The path lies by Sy and the Ferme de Palogne, and should be accurately inquired for before starting. The river is crossed twice in this excursion, and it is needful to secure the services of a guide for the ascent to the ruins. The Castle 90f Logne dates from the 10th cent. In the 15th cent, it was held by De la Mark, and used as a kind of arsenal and stronghold whence his partisans were wont to sally forth and harass the enemy. It was dis- mantled by order of Charles V. The walk may be continued to Bomal. The rly. traverses the river and a tunnel before reaching 25 m. Bomal Stat. Chdtcau of Re- naissance period. Here the Aisne falls into the Ourthe. [Excursion (one of the most attractive in the country) along the Aisne to (4 m. S.E.) Roche—a-Fréne, by way of Juzaine and Aisne. The country about Roche—a- Fréne is exceedingly imposing. The rocks here present the most fantastic appearance, and are colossal in size] 27 m. Barvaux Stat, where are good fishing-quarters. [Agreeable walk up the sinuous Ourthe to (2 m.) Durbuy, once a fortified town, dis- mantled by order of Louis XIV. It has a ruined tower, medizeval bridge, and old chapel. The chateau has been restored by the Countess of Ursel.] The lily. quits the Ourthe. which makes a wide circuit to reach 33 m. Melreux J unct. Stat. [Steam Route 65.—-—Hamoir——La Roche. 229 tramway to (13 n1.) La. Roche, passing (2 m.) Hotton Stat, with a bridge over the Ourthe, and (6 m.) Rendeux- Haut Stat, from whence may be as- cended the hill of St. Thibaut, crowned with the hermitage of Montaigu (Monte acute). The pedestrian may descend on the other side to (7 m.) Marcourt Stat, and proceed to 13 n1. La Roche Stat. the best fishing quarters in the Ardennes, and much frequented by townsfolk of Liege in Aug. and Sept. The air is found to be enervating for any length— ened sojourn; but residence here is pleasant. The country abounds in exquisite scenery and walks, La Roche being situated in the imme- diate neighbourhood of five different valleys. Crossing the Suspension Bridge you reach the ruined Castle, which belonged in the 11th cent. to Henri, Count of La Roche, a junior branch of the Counts of Namur. It was for a time held by the Dukes of Bourgogne, also by Louis XIV., who restored it, but surrendered it at the peace of Utrecht. It was finally dis- mantled by order of the Emperor Joseph II. ‘ Carriage-road, very circuitous, to (20 In. S.E.) Houfi'alz‘ze (Rte. 72). The path by the serpentine river is nearly twice as long. Beausaint, 2 m. S.W., is a fine point of view, and near Hives, 3 in. S., are the curious sepulchral Rocks called the Tombs. 5 m. N.E. of La Roche is Samré; and, 5 in. further, rises the Baraque de Fraiture (2135 ft.), the second highest point in Belgium, sur- mounted by a Surveying station. The view is extensive, but overlooks a desolate country. 12 in. SE. of La Roche is Le Hérou, in a *singular position at the con- fluence of the two tortuous rivers Ourthe. It is best reached by way of Hives and Ortho, where the road turns N.E. About 8 m. E. of the confluence lies Houflalz‘ze (Rte. 72).] 39 In. Marche Stat. (3000), on the march, or limit, between the Duchy of 230 Luxemburg and the Prince-bishopric of Liege; it was capital of the Fa- menne, a fertile corn district, named after its ancient inhab. the Gaulish Phoemanni, mentioned by Caesar. Here was signed, in 1577, by Don John of Austria and the States of the United Netherlands, the treaty known as the Perpetual Edict. The village of Waha (2 m. S.) has a small Ro- manesque ch. of 1051. The country between Marche and St. Hubert is Shakspeare’s “ Forest of Arden,” and presents some charming woodland scenery. 41 m. Marloie Junct. Stat, on the Great Luxemburg Rly. (Rte. 64). The ARDENNES may be described as a tract of country stretching from the river Sambre to the Mosel, and com- prising portions of Belgium, the Grand Duchy of Luxemburg, Northern France, and Rhenish Prussia. Its greatest length is about 160 m. It comprises, or abuts upon, the towns of Liége, Spa, Sedan, Namur, Luxem- burg, Givet, Dinant, and Huy, but the best starting-point for the English tourist is probably the first-named. The most romantic scenery is consi- dered to be that on the French side, the most imposing that in the neigh- bourhood of Luxemburg, while the course of the Mense from Liege to Givet offers the greatest variety. Au- tumn is the best season, and the dis- trict may be cordially recommended to pedestrians, anglers, and artists, and other persons not in a hurry. It is essential to the enjoyment of the Ardennes that the traveller should leave again and again the beaten track, and lose his way among unfre~ quented footpaths. A wood-cutter’s encampment is a curious and picturesque feature in the Ardennes, with its conical log-huts surmounted by a tiny windmill, and rudely constructed Cross close by. Charcoal for the use of the local foun- dries, and bark for tanning, are the principal products of the oak forests, the underwood of which is periodically cleared by fire. Here the barking Route 66.—Namur to Givet. plants that of the vine. Sect. II season takes the place of hop-picking or the vintage. Herdsmen summer their cows home of an evening by tln blast of a discordant. trumpet. Th< Ardennes are famous for a race 01 sturdy ponies, but every species 0 wild animal has long since been extir pated, except the boar. The first clearers of the forest ant reclaimers of the soil were the monks such as those of Stavelot and Mal médy, and in the age of persecutior numerous bands of Christians sough refuge among the caverns and natura fastnesses of this region (see Grotto q Fréne, Rte. 66). Such recesses VVCI‘l long believed to be peopled by : diminutive, half fairy, race calle( Nutons, regarding whom the supersti tion lingers yet in several remote vil lages. The originals of the Nuton were beyond doubt the Christian fu gitives who took shelter here in trou blous times. (See Introd., § 27, am Rtes. 61, 64, 66, 68.) ROUTE 66. NAMUR T0 GIVET, BY DINANT. 32 n1. RAIL. Coach daily to Dinant in 3 hrs. fare, 2 fr. 80 c. Steamer from 2 Ma; to 15 Oct., also in 3 hrs.; fare, 1st cl. 1 fr. 70; 2d 01., 1 fr. Much of th< scenery is lost to the traveller b: train. The Mense above Namur is highl; picturesque. For a considerable dis tance the river is hemmed in by mag nificent escarpments of limestone backed by wooded hills. The culti vation of the graceful hop here sup The rly. 01 Belgium. leaving Namur crosses the Meuse by a handsome bridge and keeps on the rt. bank of the river, cutting ofl‘ bends from time to time by a tunnel. 5 m. Dave Stat., in the midst of orchards. Its restored castle and fine rocks are not seen from the rly. A tunnel is carried behind a tall clifi' to reach 8 m. Lustin Stat. % m. N.W. lies Fréne, with 2 interesting grottoes, one of which, called Granule Egl'ise, is said to have been used as a place of wor- ship by Christians in time of perse- cution, while the other served as their hiding-place. On the 1. bank are the marble quarries 0f Profondeville. 11 m. Godinne Stat, near which is the cavern of Chauveamc. On the opposite bank, above Rouillon (cha— teau of M. Demanet) rises the pictur- esque precipice, called Roche aux Chauves (Chough’s Cliff). 13 m. Yvoir Stat, at the mouth of the Bocq rivulet, connected by a bridge with Moulins, a Cistercian convent converted into iron - works. Yvoir has extensive quarries of stone and marble. 3 m. hence up the winding and rocky valley of the Floye rises the ruined *Castle of Montaigle, the most picturesque in this district. The rly. here crosses the Meuse and continues up its 1. bank as far as Dinant. On the rt. bank, 2 m. above Yvoir, rises the Castle of Poilvache (Le. Pille-vache, its owners being robbers of cattle), once “la terreur des Dinantois,” now in ruins, of great extent, and finely situated. It was taken and destroyed by Bp. Jean of Heynsberg in M29. Close to the river, on the 1. bank, about a mile below Dinant, stands the picturesque old village of Bouvigne. Its inhabitants rivalled those of Di- nant in the manufacture of articles of brass and copper, kettles, &c. (called from the place dinanderies), and the animosity thus created led to bloody and long-continued feuds between them. In defiance of their neighbours, Route 66.—— Y coir—Dinant, 231 the men of Bouvigne built the castle of Crévecreur, whose ruined tower rises above the village; and those of Dinant, to annoy them in return, erected that of Montorgueil, which they were afterwards compelled to destroy. 18 m. Dinant Stat. (6500), whose long line of houses stretches by the margin of the Meuse, overhung by a wall of towering limestone clifi's, highly picturesque. The Chi? is crowned by the walls of a fortress, raised to defend the passage of the Meuse, now dismantled, showing a waste of much English gold. Close in front of the cliff rises the bulb- crowned tower (200 ft.) of the Ch. of Notre Dame, 3. fine edifice in the best Gothic style of the 13th cent. It has a lofty nave with narrow aisles, and an apsidal choir. Masonry of black and grey stone. Ancient baptistery and font, and S. portal of 12th cent. Immediately behind the Ch. a steep flight of 400 steps leads up to the Fort, now sold and in private hands. Long covered ways, loop- holed for masonry, lead to a balcony commanding splendid views over the Meuse and town (1 fr.). Dinant was the birthplace of Wiertz, the eccentric painter (1806). Excellent chub and pike fishing may be had here, with permission from the owners. - Duke Philip the Good, irritated b some act of aggression, besiegedDinant with 30,000 men (1466). The inha- bitants, when summoned to surren- der, replied by hanging the messen- gers sent with the proposals. The Duke, enraged at this outrage, was preparing to take the town by assault, when it surrendered. He gave it up to pillage for 3 days, and then set fire to it; and While the flames were still raging, ordered 800 of the inha- bitants, bound two and two, to be thrown into the Meuse. Though weak from illness, he was carried in a litter to a spot whence he could feast his eyes on the confiagration and horrible execution; and, not satisfied with this 232 act of vengeance, he sent workmen to pull down the ruined walls after the fire, that not a vestige of Dinant might remain. His son, Charles the Bold, allowed the town to be rebuilt; but it was again sacked, burnt, and demolished, in 1554, by the French under the Due de Nevers,—a misfor- tune occasioned principally by the insolenee of the townspeople in re- plying to the summons to surrender by a message to the effect that, if the Duke and the French King fell into their hands, they would roast their hearts and livers for breakfast. Coach daily to (15 m. W.) Flo- rennes (Rte. 62); twice daily to (‘20 in. S.E.) Rochefort (Rte. 61); along the valley of the Lesse (see below); twice daily to (27 In.) Gedinnc (Rte. 68); thrice daily to (13 m.) Beauraing (1700), where is an ancient chateau magnificently restored by its late owner, the Duke of Osuna. (Apply for admission on the rt. of the en— trance.) At Falmignoul (650), a vil- lage 5 m. from Dinant, this road leaves on the rt. that to (7 m.) G-ivet. Exocnsroxs. a. Roche a Bayard—About 1 m. above Dinant the old road to Givet goes through a kind of natural portal in the wall of limestone stretching to- wards the Meuse, and throwing off an isolated obelisk of rock 90 ft. high, called the *Roche (‘z Bayard, from the horse of one of the Quatre Fils Aymon, who left the print of his hoof on the rock, when he plunged into the Ardenne forest in search of his master. The cleft was widened by order of Louis XIV., to facilitate the passage of the read up the valley. Near this are quarries of black marble. Immedi- ately above lies Anseremme, a pretty town with overhanging clifi‘s. Here the Lesse falls into the Mouse; . its rocky valley is very picturesque and well deserves to be explored; but, owing to its intricate windings, it must sometimes be crossed at a ford or in a boat. 6. The Lassa—The scenery of the Route 66.—Dz'mmt: Excursions. Sect. II. Lesse derives its character from the limestone clifi's rising alternately rt. and l. The road leads past the Rolling- mill (Laminoir) and Forge, and the (3 m.) Cluiteau de Walzz’n, a Renais- sance building in a *most romantic position on the edge of a cliff, to (2 m.) Chaleux, where the rocks are very striking, one pyramid (la, Chandelle) projecting from the rest. There are many caves hereabouts in the lime- stone. 3 in. further is the deserted Castle, flanked by i towers, of We‘ve— Ccllcs, belonging to the Due de Lie~ dekirk Beaufort. The village ot‘Celles possesses a very remarkable *Roman- esque church with 2 crypts, formerly attached to a Benedictine monastery. The return may be. made by the village of Furfooz, famous for the pre historic remains discovered in its caverns. 6 111. higher up the Lesse is the village of Houyet, a good stop- ping place on the way to the grotto ot‘IIan, 16 In. further. Close to the eh. is an ancient oak, preserved by command of Leopold I. c. Chateau de Freyr.—Carriage with one horse, 5 frs.; 2 horses, 8 frs., 3 m. S.W., on the 1. bank (see below). (I. Carriage drive in 4 hrs. (25 frs.) to the Cavern of Han sur Lesse (Rte. 64). [The road turns away from the Meuse at Roche a Bayard and com- mences an ascent lasting nearly 2 m. It continues on the uplands, crossing several streams, and passes Celle, where is Count Licdekirk’s Chateau, and fiu'ther on the royal Chziteau (l’Ardenne, not shown except by special permission from the Govern- ment at BruSsels. The same remark applies to the neighbouring royal chateau of Ciergnon. At Villars the Lesse is crossed, and hence turning short to 1. through a limestone pass the road reaches Han sur Lesse] Continuing the rly. j ouruey, the line fOIIOWs the course of the Meuse through very pretty country, which / Belgium. can only be seen properly from the road. 23 m. Waulsort Stat. (400), with a chateau and pretty gardens. 2 m. N. rises the Chateau of Freyr. a country seat belonging to the family of Beau- fort-Spontin, on 1. bank of the river, at the base of cliffs and richly-wooded hills, which are furrowed by ravines. Within the grounds is a natural grotto. abouuding in stalactitcs, and singu- larly lighted by an aperture in the rock. Here a Treaty of Commerce was signed between Louis XIV. and Charles II. of Spain in 1675. OppOsitc to Frcyr the cliffs of limestone rise directly from the Meuse, much broken up, presenting striking forms and out- lines; occasionally the upper part of the rock projects beyond the perpen- dicular, so as completely to overhang the river. 26 m. Hastiéro Junct. Stat. Here are two villages—~11. Lavaux (800) on the l. bank, and II. par-deli: (250) 011 the rt., connected by a bridge. The latter has a venerable 'abbey church, long neglected, but now partially re- stored. Rly. W. to Chimay, for Paris (Rte. 67). 28 m. Agimont Stat. Belgian Cus- ' ) tom-house. 32 m. Givet Junct. Stat. Buffet. Fr. Custom-house (5200). This strongly fortified town may be seen A L in 1 hr. thus z—lflnter the town by the road crossing the esplauade immedi- ately in front of the station, and, passing through the gates, continue straight down the Rue des Vieux Recollets to the Ch. of St. Hilairc, built by Vauban in 1682, a plain stone edifice, with delicately carved wood-work round choir and nave. To the l. of the eh. is a poor bust of Me’hul, the composer (1841), a native of Givet. This square leads to the quay bor- dering the Meuse, and proceeding to the rt. along this, past the Exercise Ground, about halfway down the next Route 67.——Namur to Paris. 233 quay, a path between two stone walls will be seen, which leads up the steep side of the rock to the NE. entrance of the Citadel of Charlemont (apply at the guard-house for permission to enter). From the terrace behind the powder magazine a magnificent pano- rama will be enjoyed, and an idea gained of the size and strength of this fortress, originally built by the Spaniards, but reconstructed by Van- ban. The view extends over Grand Givet. immediately below, connected by a bridge with Petit Givet (or Givet Notrc Dame), on the rt. bank of the winding Meuse, whilst a considerable portion of the surrounding hills are on Belgian soil, which bounds 3 sides of the commune of Givet at scarcely 2 miles’ distance. Rly. S. to Vireux (Rte. 61); N. to Chatelincau for Brussels (Rte. 74.) ROUTE 67. names TO PARIS, BY LAON AND sorssoxs. 196 m. RAIL. This line branches off S.W. from Rte. 66 after passing 26 m. Hastiére Lavaux Junct. Stat, and proceeds to 31 m. Agimont Stat, a mile from the village, which lies 1‘), and is served by a second stat, yet further distant, on the Givct rly. The con- spicuous round tower is the ruined keep of an ancient castle held succes- sively by the counts of Rochefort, La Mark, and Charles V., and destroyed by the French in 1551. Skirting the frontier, we reach 37 m. Doissche Junct. Stat. (Rte. 74), and continue through an undu lating country to - 234 45 m. Mariembourg Junct. Stat. (Rte. 61). 47 m. Boussu-en-Fagne Stat., the Gothic facade of whose chateau, now a farm-house, is visible from the rly. This was the scene of two French victories—over the Prince of Orange in 1693 and the Austrians in 1794. The Eau Blanche is crossed at 52 m. Lomfret Stat., to the N.W. of which is the Etang de Virelles, a wooded lake, with an islet in its centre. 55 m. Chimay Junct. Stat. N. to Brussels (Rte. 69). place in Belgium is Rly. The last 63 m. Momignies Stat., 2 m. be- yond which the frontier is crossed to 68 m. Anor Junct. Stat. Bly. N.W. to Aulnoye (Rte. 57), and we proceed by (109 m.) Laon, and (113 m.) Soissons, to 196 In. Paris Terminus (Gare du Nord). See Handbooks for France, Pt. 1., and Paris. ROUTE 68. LIhGE 'ro LUXEMBURG, BY SPA. 105 m. RAIL. The first part of this line, as far as 14 m. Pepinster Junct. Stat. is de- scribed in Rte. 53. Here the rly. turns S. up the valley of the Hoegne, clothed with wooded hills, and en~ livened by country-houses, belonging principally to the manufacturers of Verviers. Long lines of cloth hung Route 68.—L2'ége to Lumemburg. Sect. II out in the sun proclaim the staph manufacture of the district. 17 m. Theux Stat. Directly abovi this village rise the Towers 0 Franchimont. “ Which, like an eagle’s nest in air, Hang o’er the stream and hamlet fair. Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, A mighty treasure buried lay, Amass’d through rapine and through wrong By the last lord of Franchimont.” Soon. The ruins occupy an isolated roe] between two valleys, the outer wal being 40 ft. high. The traveller i recommended to take the train from Spa to Theux, and walk back. For an account of the attempt o 600 men of Franchimont to seizi Charles the Bold and Louis XI. 1! 1468, see end of Rte. 52. The rly. now follows the valley 0: the Wayaz‘, and passes 19 m. La Reid Stat., 2 m. from th village, which stands on a hill to th< rt. (see below). 22 m. SPA Stat., prettily am healthily situated, 1000 ft. above th‘ sea-level, in the romantic valley 0 the Wayai, at the foot of lofty hill; forming part of the chain of tin Ardennes, which completely shelte it to the N. and NE. Spa is a cleai little town dating from 1327, when a native of Breda, Colin 1e Loup having derived benefit from th1 waters, purchased of the Prine Bishop of Liege the ground surround ing the Pouhon spring, and provider accommodation for invalids. 11; ha: long been one of the most l‘ashionablt and frequented watering-places, arm was once a seat of gambling, by whicl the Bishop of Liege formerly large]: profited (suppressed in 1872). Sp: was known to the English, ant frequented by them, all through th< 18th cent, before any other continenta bath—Baden and Pyrmont not ex cepted—from which it came to pas that all mineral watering-places WEN called“ Spas.” The number of visitor: during the days of public gaming Belgium. was 20,000, but fell to 12,000; now that the gaming is re-established in a modified form it is gradually rising. The permanent Pop. is 6000, many of Whom are employed in bottling the waters for exportation, and in the manufacture of the maple and violet wood Spa-ware, in the painting of which considerable talent is displayed. The principal buildings are—the Bath House (Etablissement des Bains), of handsome architecture, well ar- ranged, in the Place-Royale, erected in 1868 at a cost of 80,000l., and pro- vided with all modern scientific appli- ances. It is supplied by water brought in cast-iron pipes from the hamlet of Nivesé (Marie-Henriette Spring). One half of the building is set apart for ladies, the other for men, both being furnished with hot, cold, douche, vapour, and mud baths. A Gymnasium has been added to the Establishment. The Pouhon with Winter-Garden.——The Casino (Re- doute) built in 17 69, richly decorated within, and containing a Reading- room, Ball-room (music and soirée dansante every evening) Theatre (performances three times a week). The Swimming-Bath, near H. Britan- niquc, is large, and has a constant stream of fresh water flowing through it. Ladies” hours, 10 to 12. On all sides of Spa extend shady avenues, that of the JlIarteau leading from the station to the village of that name. The Place—Royale, in which is the grand Bath-house, leads to the Pro- menade de Sept-Heures, a long avenue of tall elms, occupying the bottom of the valley, with a kiosk for the band, which plays here twice a day (2.30 to 4.30, and 7 to 9 P.M.). At the side is a long glazed gallery with pavilions at each end for rainy weather. This is the favourite daily resort of visitors. The abrupt wooded hill rising on the N. directly above this, intersected with zigzag paths, ofi'ers a shady retreat from the crowd below. SE. and S. are the picturesque ravines through which run the Pro- menades des Orléans, des Artistes, and dc Meyer-beer. Route 68.—Spa: Springs. 235 The Mineral Waters are cold chaly- beate, and characterized by the pre- sence of carbonates of magnesia, lime, soda, iron, and manganese, with the sulphates of soda and potash, traces of silica, and alumina, Whilst free carbonic acid gas in unusual quantity and their electrical condition render them sparkling, palatable, and easy of digestion. They are used both internally and externally, and con— sidered particularly efiicacious in dys- pepsia and nervous diseases, chronic afl'ections of the liver, and disorders of the digestive and uterine organs. There are 7 principal springs :— 1. Pouhon (from the Walloon “ pouhi”: to draw up) in the centre of the town. A tablet records the restoration to health of Peter the Great in 1717. 2 Tonnelet (water first collected in little tubs), a pavilion at the road- side distant 1; 111., now little used. 3. Sauveniére, on high ground about 13; m. to the SE. on the road to Malmédy in a beech wood skirting the moors. Near it is the monument set up by the D. de Chartres (L. Philippe) and his 3 sisters, in remem- brance of their mother having re- ceived her cure from the use of these waters. It was destroyed by French republican soldiers in 1792, and re- stored in 1841 by Louis Philippe. The centenary was celebrated with due honour in 1887. 4. Close to the Sauveniére is the Groesbeck. . 5. The Géronstére, prettily situ- ated, at a height of 470 ft. above the Pouhon, is about 2 m. from Spa. The Sauveniere and Géronst‘ere are sur- rounded by pleasure - grounds, and supplied with restaurants and cafes. 6. The Barisart is the most fre- quented of the distant springs, its waters being well suited for weak digestive organs. 236 7. The Prince do Gondé, in the town, furnishes 2 springs, which were not used as drinking wells until 1863, but contain more iron than the others, while equally digestible. A tour of all the springs is one of the ordinary drives, or walks, of about 6 or 7 m. ; but the road is hilly, the scenery not very striking, and the springs them- selves have little interest. There is a charming shady walk, however, be— tween the Barisart aud the Géronstbre, by the side of a tumbling rivulet, crossed by 10 or 12 rustic bridges. The race-courses are at a consider- able elevation, and command line views. The flat races take place at the hippodrome near the Sauveniere ; the steeple-chases in September at the old hippodrome. Several race-meet~ ings are held in the course of the season. Fishing may be had in the stream- lets Wayai, Hoegne, Salm, &c., and in the river Ambleve. The Ardennes, in the neighbourhood of Spa, consist chiefly of round-backed hills. covered with heath but scantily wooded, and on the whole not very picturesque, though from their heights extensive views are obtained, and among them wind some charming valleys. They belong to the Silurian formation (abounding in iron, the origin of the salutary springs of Spa), and to the Cambrian and Devonian Series. The modern Romanesque ch. rc- places a fine old building which had fallen into a state of ruin, and was demolished in 1883. Excnnsroxs.—To (9 in.) Roman- champs, in the Valley of the Am- blevo. The excellent carriage-road turns out of the Pepinster road after cross- ing the rly. 3 times, then to l. passing the village of La Reid, up several steep hills, and across a wild heath, thence descending into a rugged ravine, in which lie the cave and village of Remouohamps, charmingly situated, in a neighbourhood afl‘ording pleasant walks and rides (Rte. 65). Route 68.—Spa: Excursions—Stavelot. Sect. II. A different road may be taken in returning to Spa, by Halleux, near which place the Ambléve passes through a natural arch or cavern in the rock. Not far from Halleux, the Ambléve and Ourthe unite at Doux~ flamme, whence the road over the suspension bridge leads into (3 In.) Comblain au Pout Stat. (Rte. 65). To the (10 m.) Cascade of Goo, bear- ing 1. beyond the Géronsti-re spring. The falls themselves are insignificant, but the situation of the village is highly picturesque and singular. It stands on the slope of a hill washed by the river, which after a sinuous course of 2 m. returns to it again. 2 hrs. W., passing La Glcize, lies Stonmont Stat. (Rte. 65). Coo may be also reached by train to Trois I’onts Stat. (see below). ’ The Luxemburg rly. follows for a short distance the valley of the Briegne, and then continues to ascend rapidly through a series of bleak moors until reaching 29 m. Hockai Stat, 1890 ft. above the sea. From this point Baraque St. Michel (2230 ft.), the highest hill in Belgium, may be ascended. Be- yond Hockai, the line descends to 34 m. Francorchamps Stat. (Fran- eorum Campus). A pleasant excur- sion may be made SW. to the charm- ing valley of the Roannay, as far as (6 m.) La Gleize. 37 m. Stavelot (Germ. Stable) Stat, a town of 3000 Inhab., owing its origin to a renowned Benedictine abbey (Stabulum), founded in 651 by King Sigbert, on the advice of St. Rema- clius. In the Parish Church is pre- served the very interesting Shrine (Chasse) of St. Remaelius (1263). It is 6 ft. long, of copper plates, gilt and enamelled, the sides flanked by 14 canopied niches, containing silver- gilt statuettes 1 ft. high of the 12 Apostles; with St. Remaclius and St. Lambert rather larger. At the ends, under the gables, are seated figures of >. Belgium. our Lord, and the Virgin and Child. The sloping roof is divided into 8 panels of reliefs in rcpoussée work, containing subjects from the life of our Lord. The sides, cornices, gables, &c., are encrusted with precious stones beryl, opal, turquoise, &c. During the French Revolution, the shrine (said to contain still the saints bones) was placed in a large cask and sunk under water. All that remains of the abbey ch. is part of a Romanesque tower. The abbot of Stablo~Malmédy was a prince of the Holy Roman Em- pire. [Omnibus twice daily to (5 in. NE.) Malmédy. About half way lies the Prussian frontier, where baggage is slightly examined. A fine view is gained on winding down a steep hill, of red sandstone, from the table-land into Malmédy, a small town of 4000 Inhab., chiefly \Valloons, famous for the manufacture of sole leather for shoes, there being 60 tanncries here in active work. The hides are brought from South America. The Ardenne forest furnishes the best bark. The greater part of Germany is supplied from Malmedy and Stavelot, and many of the tanner-sure wealthy. The fantastic houses and gardens, in and around the town, chiefly their pro- perty, are somewhat in the Dutch style. The most remarkable of them, Montbijou, lies a little way out of the town. Malmedy was once a great Benedictine abbey, forming, with that of Stablo, a joint principality. Here we reach the border of the \Valloon and German languages. ltly. N. to Aachen] The rly. now continually descends to 40m. Trois Ponts Stat. A path runs along the opposite bank of the Ambleve to (2111.) the Cascade de Coo (see above). The waterfall is pro- duced by two artificially made gaps in the rock—bed of the Ambleve. The rly. rises through a wild valley Route 68.-—Trois Ponts—-— Wiltz. ' 237 to a height of 1650 ft., and then de- scends to 47 m. Vielsalm Stat, nearly a mile from the village, which lies on the l. The old castle, further on to the rt., retains only its Gothic portal flanked with 2 large round towers. [Omnibus twice daily to (6 m. W.). Lierneux, noted for its slate quarries and whet- stones] The Belgian custom-house is passed at 55 m. Gouvy Junct. Stat, for Bastogne and Houfi‘alize (Rte. ’72). The latter place (11 m. SW.) may also be reached by omnibus from the Stat. in 2% hrs., fare 1 fr. 80 0. Beyond Gouvy, the rly. crosses marshy common and heath, near to the head—waters of the Ourthe, the Mass and Mose], which form the frontier of Luxemburg. 60 m. Trois Vierges Stat. Germ. Ulflrmge ,- Custom-house of the Grand Duchy. 65 m. Clervaux (or Clerf) Stat, curiously placed in an abrupt bend of the river \Volz. The Castle, interior modernized, contains good pictures. It once belonged to the Lannoy family, one of whom is famous as the conqueror of Francis I. at Pavia. The river is crossed at 67 m. Wilwerwiltz Stat, above which rises the lofty village of Alt- scheid, commanding a magnificent view. On the oppOsite bank are the ruins of Schutburg. A rapid descent leads to 70 m. Kautenbach Stat, where the Wiltz and the Wolz unite their waters. [Branch rly. to (6 m. N.W.) Wiltz (i000), a town possessing a brisk cloth and leather trade, with a loftily situated chateau, from which a precipice descends to the valley. This line will be continued to Bastognc (Rte. 72).] 73 m. Goebelsmfihle Stat, at the 238 junction of the W012 and the Sure. Hence a charming road ascends the 1. bank of the Sure to (7 m.) Esch-le- trou, one of the *most remarkable spots in the district, approached by a tunnel through the Gemeindeberg. Fine rocks and a ruined castle. 85 m. Ettelbriick (Attila’s Bridge) Junct. Stat. (Buffet). Good central quarters. [Rly. S.E. to (30 m.) VVasserbillig, on the line between Luxemburg and Tréves, descending the valley of the Sure to 3 m. Diekirch Stat, a pretty town at the foot of the Herrenberg or Thorberg, said to derive its name from a temple of Dido, daughter of Odin and sister of Thor. Beyond the bridge which crosses the Sure to Bettendorf, on the rt. bank, a road ascends the 1. bank to the fine ruins of the Chateau de Beaufort, 9 m. distant. 8 m. of Diekireh lies Vianden, in the valley of the Our, a village of 1600 Inhab., with a grand extensive *Gastle in a picturesque position, an ancient posseSsion of the House of Nassau, on a a rock 400 ft. above the river. It was in good preservation until 1820, when it was sold for 32,000 fl., and unroofed, but was bought back by the King of Holland, who is Count of Vianden, in 18m. It has a triple circuit of walls; two ample halls, now roofless, retain their piers and arches, and there is a curious octagon chapel of 2 stories, above for the seigneur, below for the retainers. In the hall are 2 fine Romanesque w’ndows. The branch rly. proceeds to 18 m. Echternach Stat. (-1000). Here, until 1793, was a great Bene- dictine Abbey, founded in the. 7th cent. by our countryman St. Wille- bred, now used as a porcelain fac- tory. The *Abbey Church is a fine Basilica of 1051, restored in 1868, with single aisles, separated from the Route 68.—Diekirch—Mersch. Sect. ’II. nave by alternate piers and columns with admirably carved capitals. On Whit-Tuesday there is a pilgrimage hither, and a procession, in which old and young, men and women, perform a curious dance. The custom arose ages ago in thanksgiving for the dis— appearance of St. Vitus’s Dance from this district. The procCSsion starts from the bridge over the Sure, and ascends by 60 steps to the Romanesque parish ch. on a steep hill outside the town, which contains under the high altar the tomb of Willebrord, apostle of Friesland and abp. of Utrecht. Echternach is a bright and pretty town, with a fine chateau and gardens of 1700. Besides zinc and iron works it has manufactures of beautiful pot- tery and porcelain. The insignia of the various trades are quaintly carved over many of the doorways] At Ettelbriick, the rly. enters the valley of the Alzette: many tunnels and bridges occur. 87 m. Colmar Berg Junct. Stat. Iron~works; Chilean of Berg; and a seat of the King of Holland, com- manding views over the Vale of Alzette. Rly. SW. to Pctange and Bettemburg, crossing Rte. 6* at Bettingen. 92 m. Mersch Stat. (3000), at the junction of the Eisch and Mamer with the Alzette. In the market place stands the tower of an ancient ch., demolished in 1851. [Excursiona—a. Ascend the Lbank of the Mamer to (2 m.) Schonfels, a restored castle—thence to the ruined abbey of Marienthal—lSth cent.— between the Eisch and Eischen, above which rise the ruins of Ansembu-rg; thence along the. Eisch to the ruined Castle of Hohlenfels, in a striking situation. The old castle was bom- barded by Marshal Boufflers; the modern dates from 17th cent. The rock above Sehiinfels is pierced with a deep cavern called Vichtelstoch, formerly the abode of Nutons (Rte. 65). b. To La Rochette (Germ. Fels), Belgium. 9. very picturesque spot on the Erenz. The restored Cluitcau of the Prince d‘Arenberg is the finest in this dis- trict. Path hence to Echternach.] The rly. enters LuXCmburg upon a *lofty viaduct over the Alzette, and through a tunnel under the fortifica- tions. 105 m. Luxemburg Junct. Stat. (Rte. 61). ROUTE 69. BRUSSELS TO CHIMAY. 73 in. 1mm. Leaving Brussels by the Midi Stat., the train follows Rte. 56 as far as 10 in. Lembecq-lez—Hal J unct. Stat, and continues a little \V. of S. to 12 m. Clabecq Junet. Stat. Rly.,W. to Tubize, E. to Brainc l’Alleud (Rte. 75). Thence S. to 23 in. Ecaussines Junct. Stat, on the main line between Ghent and Charlcroi (Rte. (50). 28 Ill. Houdeng Junct. Stat. Rly. N.W: to Soignies (Rte. 56). 31 in. Haine St. Pierre Junct. Stat. Rly. W. to Mons, E. to Charleroi (Rte. 63). 36 In. Binche Stat. (7500), where flowers are worked to form patterns for the Brussels lace-makers. Near this place are fine views over the surround- ing country. At 38 m. Bonne Espérance J unct. Stat, a loop line connects this fly. with Mons (Rte. (33). Route 69.—Bmssels to Ohimay. 239 , 39 m. Fauraeulx J unet. Stat. Rly. S. to (10 m.) Erquelinnes (Rte. 52). Our line bears E. to 42 m. Merbes Ste. Marie Junct. Stat. (Rte. 63) and 43 m. Lobbes Junct. Stat, on the main line between Paris and Liége (Rte. 52). Here is a ruined Abbey. 44 In. Thuin W. Stat. (4100). This town has another stat. (N.) on the above-mentioned line. 48 m. Thuillies J unct. Stat, whence a branch rly. strikes E. to (10 m.) Lanqfi'e, crossing Rte. 61 at (5 m.) Berzc‘e. Our line turns due S. to 73 in. Chimay Junct. Stat. (4000). The prince who takes his title from this place has a fine *Park here. Rly. to Namur or Paris (Rte. 67). Chiinay is interesting as the burial- place of Jehan Froissart, who was Canon and treasurer of its ch. In the 1st chapel rt. a sufficiently bombastic inscription in Latin verse records the circumstance. A poor monument to his memory was erected in 1848 in front of the H. de l’Univers. The chateau contains a reception-room of Louis XIV., and is worth a visit, but the gardens are its principal attraction. The town dates from the 7th cent, but has suffered much from sieges, and been repeatedly destroyed by fire. 6 m. S. is an extensive Abbey of Trappists, founded in 1850 for the reclamation of waste lands. 240 ROUTE 70. mums TO'TIRLEMONT. 28 m. RAIL. This line runs nearly due N. to 11 m. Eghezée Stat, connected by steam tramway with (13 in. SE.) Seillcs on the Meuse (Rte. 52). The little river Mehaigne is crossed to 12 m. Noville—Taviers Junct. Stat, the latter town lying at some distance on the rt. Rly. E. to (6 m.) Embresin. 14 m. Ramillies Junct. Stat, half- way between Landen and Gembloux (Rte. 53). 20 m. Jodoigne Stat. Steam tram~ way to (15 In. W.) lVavre (Rte. 54:). 28 m. Tirlemont Junct. Stat, on the main line between Brussels and Cologne (Rte. 53). ROUTE 71. rrmmmorrr 'ro TONGRES, BY s'r. most). 28 m. RAIL. From Tirlemont (Rte. 53) the rly. runs N.E., descending the Grand Géte, to 7 m. Neerlinter J unct. Stat., whence a branch turns N., still following the stream, to (20 m.) Diest (Rte. 55), and (42 m.) Moll (Rte. 77). Our llne quits the river, and proceeds SE. to 9 m. Léau Stat, once a fortress, with Route 7l.—-Tirlemo-nt to Tongres. Sect. II. remains of ancient walls. The *Oh. of St. Léonard (1231) has 2 W. towers, and a Gothic choir, whose apse is sur- rounded by an external arcade, like the Rhenish churches. It pOSsesses several carved altarpieces; a fine Pas- chal candlestick of brass, 17 ft. high, ornamented with figures and having 6 branches; and a stone *Tabernacle, sculptured in the style of the Renais- sance, with canopy 50 ft. high, the work of Cornelius de. Vriendt, brother of the painter Franz Floris, erected at the cost of the Seigneur Martin van Wilre in 1558, who is buried in the tomb close by. of the 6 subjects in the lower tier, 2 represent the For- bidden Fruit. The spire in 7tiers has innumerable groups and figures, too high up to be well seen. 13 In. St. Trond Junct. Stat. (11,500) receives its name from St. Truyen, who founded a large abbey here, and gained great fame by the working of miracles. N. Dame is a cruciform 3rd Pointed ch., restored in 1858, painted by artists of Li‘ege. &c.; statues by Geerts and Geefs. The *Ch. of St. Martin is of Romanesque date, and far more in- teresting. Rly. N. to Hasselt, S. to Landen (Rte. 55). At Brusthem, 2 111. SF). on the old road to Liege, a great battle was fought, in 1167, between Charles the Bold and the insurgents of Liege, who were compelled to surrender to Charles, to destroy the gates and ram- parts, and to deliver up to him 10 of their number, whom he caused to be beheaded. The line continues E. to 28 m. Tongres (Fl. Tonge‘ren) J unct. Stat. (7300), the ancient capital of the Germanic Tungri, on the Geer, a tributary of the Meuse. It is the site of a fort built by Drusus, and mentioned by Caesar in his 'Com- mentaries.‘ Tongres was in early times the see of a bishop, afterwards transferred to Maastricht, and finally to Liege. The *Ch. of Notre Dame was the first dedi- Belgium. eated to the Virgin on this side of the Alps. The existing Gothic edifice dates from 1240, but the Romanesque Cloister behind was built in the 10th cent., and is the oldest of the kind in the country. It has round arches resting on shafts, alternately double and single, and opens into the Chapter House. The Tre’sor of this church is very rich in antiquities, plate, enamels, and reliquaries. Specially remarkable are two embroidered girdle-purses of the 14th and 15th cent., and 3. *Gospel book of the 9th cent., with carved ivory panels. Near the town, on the estate of Bethe, there exists a mineral spring, mentioned by Pliny. It still retains its ancient properties, and is known as the F omztam of Plim , or of St. Giles. Tongres is a stat. on the direct line between Amsterdam and Libge (Rte. 20). ROUTE 72. GOUVY rro ARLON, BY nourmmzn, BASTOGNE, BERTRIX, AND BOUILLON. 97 m. RAIL. Leaving the main line at Gouvy (Rte. 68), the rly. turns SW. to 9 m. Tavig‘ny Stat, whence an em- nibus runs to (7 m. N.W.) Houfi‘alize (Steam Tramway in construction be— tween Houfialize and Bourcey Stat.) (1200), a favourite centre for excur« sions. The parish church, formerly attached to an abbey of St. Catharine, founded by T hierry, Sire de Houfi'alize, in 12i3, has a brass leetcrn valued at 4000 frs., candle brackets of beaten iron, and black stone monuments in relief, of the founder and his son Henri, encased in the wall on either side. The interesting Chateau has [Belgium, 1555.] Route 72—610qu to Arlen. 241 well-preserved chimneys. 8 in. W. is Le‘ Heron (Rte. 65). Continuing S.W., the train reaches 19 m. Bastogne Junct. Stat. (2000), an old town consisting of one long dismal street, on a bare unattractive highland. The interesting 15th-cent. church has a Rhenish altar of the 12th cent., a curious font of perhaps earlier date, a vaulted roof with tracery coloured blue and red, and some mural paintings, among which is a large St. Christopher. Its chief curiosity, however, is a *corona of exquisitely beaten iron, with spikelets on the rim, every third one repre- senting a fish. The only other existing specimen of such work is shown on festivals in a ch. at Liege. Rly. E. to (5 m.) Benonchamps; coach thence to (13 m.) Wiltz (Rte. 68). 37 m. Libramont J unct. Stat. (Rte. 61), 1% m. SW. of which lies Recogne, where Napoleon III. lodged at the Auberge Olivier on his way from Sedan. 44 m. Bertrix J unct. Stat, a village of 2400 Inhab., at a height of 1400 ft. above the sea. Rly. N.W. to (13 In.) Biévre and (17 m.) Gedz’nne, whence a post—cart runs to (17 m. N.W.) Vireux, for Dinant (Rte. 66), and a diligence to (8 m. S.) Vresse, on the Semois. Hence the course of that charming river may be followed W. to Membre, Bohan, Hautes Rivi‘eres, Linchamps, where is a rock-fortress of the 13th cent, and Monthermé Stat. (Rte. 6!). From Bertrix a diligence runs daily to (9 m. S.) IIerbeumonf, in a fine situation, with an interesting chateau. Hence a wild path ascends the wind- ing river Semois to (2 hrs.) St. Cécz'le (1400), and (2 m.) Chassepierre, in a picturesque situation. 3 m. E. is Flormwz'lle (see below). 10 m. SW. of Bertrix lies Bouillon, an interesting and pictur- esque town of 2500 Inhab., at the bottom of the lovely valley of the Semois, which winds round a rocky R . 242 rornontory crowned by the extensive Castle of Bouillon. Here we have a mediseval castle converted since 1815 into a modern fortress, and its ‘keep and towers cut down. It is entered through cavern-like gateways, over 2 drawbridges, one crossing a natural chasm. Part of the works, dungeons, and oubliettes are hewn out of the rock. A recess cut in the rock is called the “ Chair of Godfrey de Bouillon.” There is a spring near the top of the rock, and a well de‘ seending to the level of the Seniois. 2 bridges connect the ancient walled town with the modern town. The walks in the woods around the town are very pleasing. The best view of Bouillon is from the Florenville road. Bouillon, once capital of the duehy of the same name, was pawned by Godfrey de Bouillon to the Bishop of Liége, to raise funds for the first Crusade. The Bishops kept the ten" ory till 1482, when it was seized by V illiam (le la March, which gave rise to along series of feuds and fights between the Bishops and the houses of La Merck and La Tour d’AuVergne until, in 16H, it was settled on the Bishops. At length (1672) Louis XIV. directed Mare‘ehal Cre’qui to take possession of the town, “not.” says his published declaration, “for the purpose of prejudieing the Bishops of Liége, but for the protectlon of France, which is not sutlieiently fortified in that quarter.” Louis, having thus realised the fable of the Oyster, protested,before the Congress of Nijmegen, that he was prepared to resign the Duchy as soon as the um- pires had decided to which of the contending parties it ought to belong. The dispute, however, was never settled, and (1678) the House of La Tour d‘Auvergne assumed the sove- reignty of the Duchy of Bouillon, with the consent of Louis. The town was assigned to the Netherlands (1815) by the Treaty of Vienna. Diligence twice a day across the frontier to (13 m. S.) Sedan, in 2% hrs. Napoleon III. was escorted into Ger- Route 72.—Bouillon—Florenm'lle. Sect. II. many by this road after his surrender Sept. 3, 1870, and passed the night 9.1 the H. de la Poste at Bouillon. A pleasant walk of 4 hrs. may be taken from Bouillon to Rochehaut b) (3 in. W.) Corbion (1400), returning by Botassart, all of which place: command magnificent views. A fine panorama is also gained from tlu loftily situated village of Auby. Quitting Bertrix, the rly. turns SE to 57 m. Florenville Stat. to (5 m. NJV.) b't. Ce‘eile (see above)._ 8 in. SE. is the ruined Abbey 0 Orval, destroyed by the French arm) under Loison, who spent 10 days or its pillage in 1794. Tickets, 1 fr each, must be. obtained at the Chateal of the present owner, Major Turner Here also guide books may bl purchased. The remains are not 0 great architectural interest, but an extensiVe, and their situation verj pleasing; they stand close to tlu French frontier, in a narrow St.‘(‘lll(1C( dell, overgrown with brushwood am trees, skirted on the \V. by a beecl forest. On two sides terraces rise on above the other, 20 to 30 ft. wide, am 600 yds. long. The boundary wall 20 ft. high, is still perfect. 011 one o the highest terraces to the IV. stand the original Romanesque Chapel. Th Church, a later specimen of the sam style, with a rose-window in the S transept, stands on a level with th eonventual buildings. The Ifitehe. was furnished with two chimney: and lighted by two I‘larly-l’ointet window's. The largest pile of build ing dates from the 17th cent.; beneatl the refeetory is a well-lighted eryp forming enormous cellars. The Bent dictine monks of Orval were famou locksmiths and iron-masters. To fur nish motive-pchr for their extensiv works they dammed up the strear which traverses the enclosure an< fills the fish-pond, forming a tan: § m. long across the valley. [Diligenet 72 m. Virton Junct. Stat. (Rt: 64). Rly. S.VV. to Montme'dy, N. t Marbehan. [Excursion to (2 111. W. Belgium. Dampicourt, and (6 m. E.) the ruined Castle of Lamina] Hence to 87 m. Athus Junct. Stat. Rly. S. to Longwy and Nancy, E. to Pétange. Here the line turns N. to 97 m. Arlon Junct. Stat, on the Grand Luxemburg Rly. (Rte. 64). ROUTE 73. LANDEN T0 CINEY, BY HUY. 45 m. RAIL. The country is flat almost all the Way to 12 m. Fallais Stat, Where is a Romanesque ch., and the ruins of a castle destroyed by Louis XIV. Hence the line descends the pictur- esque valley of the Mehaigne to 18 m. Moha Stat, which also has a ruined castle, and reaches the 1. bank of the Meuse at 21 m. Statte J unct. Stat., a suburb of Huy (Rte. 52). The train crosses the river to (23 m.) Huy (Sud) Stat, and ascends the valley of the Hog/cum, aboundng in very fine scenery, rock and wood, at times contracting into gorges between clifl's, then opening into basins with meadows and mills. This part of the line will reward even the pedestrian. 29m. Modave Stat, in a most re- markable position. The Chaiteau is still inhabited, and is interesting for its antique furniture, tapestry, &c. In the eh. are some ancient tombs. Further on the rly. bends S.W. to 45 m. Ciney Junct. Stat. (Rte. 64). Route 74.—Brussels to Givet. 243 ROUTE 74. BRUSSELS TO GIVET, BY OTTIGNIES AND CHATELINEAU. 75 m. RAIL. This line follows the Great Luxem- burg Rly. as far as 15 m. Ottignies J unct. Stat. (Rte 64), and then strikes due S. to 30 m. Fleurus J unct. Stat. (Rte. 54). From 38 m. Lodelinsart Junct. Stat. a steam tramway runs also to Charleroi (Etat) Stat, while the rly. proceeds to . 40 m. Charleroi (Ville Haute) Stat. (Rte. 49), and thence to 43 m. Chatelineau J unet. Stat. Here our line turns a little E. of S. to 58 m. Florennes E. Stat. This place has a second stat, from which a rly. runs W. to Philippeville and Walcourt (Rte. 61), with branch to Morialmé. Thence to 71 m. Doissche Junct. Stat, where the Paris line falls in (Rte. 67), and 75 m. Givet J unct. Stat. (Rte. 66). 1:2 244: ROUTE 75. CHATELINEAU T0 TUBIZE. 35 in. RAIL. From Chatelineau (Rte. 49), this line runs N .W. to 3 In. Gilly-Sart-Allet Junct. Stat. (see below), and reaches 8 m. Fleurus Junct. Stat. Rly. N.E. to Gembloux, SE. to Tamines (Rte. 53); N. to Ottignies; W. to Jumet; S.W. to Charleroi (Rte. 5%). Continuing N.W., we reach 20 m. Nivelles (Est) Junet. Stat, and follow Rte. 49 towards the capi- tal as far as 27 m. Braine l’Alleud J unct. Stat, where we turn due W. to 34 m. Clabecq Junct. Stat, on the line between Brussels and Chimay (Rte. 69), and soon arrive at 35 m. Tubize J unct. Stat. (Rte. 56). [From (3 m.) Gilly (see above) a short connecting line turns of W. to 6 m. Jumet Junct. Stat, on the rly. between Fleurus and Pie’ton (Rte. 54). Hence a branch lines diverges SW. to Dampremy and (l in.) Clzurlcroi (Rte. 49). 9 In. Gosselies (Ville) Stat. The town lies to the 1., and has another stat. on the main line between Brus- sels and Charleroi. 13 m. Luttre Junct. Stat. (Rte. 49).] Route 7 6.—Liége to Verm'ers. Sect. II. ROUTE 76. Lines T0 vnnvmns, BY BATTICE. 25 m. RAIL. An extremely picturesque line, ad- mirably enginereed, and affording *niaguificent views. Just beyond 3 m. Chenée Junct. Stat. (Rte. 53) it crosses the Vesdre, and ascends in a long curve NJV. and SE. to 8 m. Beyne Stat, approaching within a mile the rly. on the rt. bank of the Meuse, described in Rte. 21 Sweeping again to the N.E., it reaches 10 m. Fléron Stat, on the l., and maintains the same direction as far a: 16 In. Herve Stat, the chief towr of this hilly district. One of flu prettiest points of view is attained a 17 m. Battice Junct. Stat, fron which an equally interesting brancl line runs N.E. to (8 in.) Aubel, in : charming situation. The rly. nov descends nearly due S. to 25 m. Verviers Junct. Stat. (Rte 53). Belgium. ROUTE 77. ANTWERP rr0 nfisssLDonr, BY ROER- MOND. 113m. RAIL. At (9 m.) Lierre Junct. Stat, the Louvainrly. is left on the rt. (Rte. 54), and the line proceeds E. to 22 m. Hérenthals J unct. Stat. (Rte. 46). Rly. N. to (12 in.) Turnhout; S. to (11 m.)Aerschot (Rte. 55). [On this line, 4 in. SE. of (l m.) Norder- tug/cit Stat, lies Tongerloo, an ancient abbey of the Premonstratensians, founded by Giselbert in 1130. The ch. has been rebuilt, but in the Refec- tory is preserved a *replica of Leo- nardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, highly important in the history of Art. It is said to have been painted by ex- press order of Clement VII., who intended it as a present for Henry VIII. of England. On the apostasy of that king it was sent to Flanders, to serve as a pattern for an elabo- rately-wrought tapestry. Reproduc- tions of the famous mural painting exist in the Royal Academy, at Cas- tellazzo near Milan, at Munich, and (in mosaic) at Vienna; but that pre- served at Tongcrloo resembles the original more closely than any of them, being on the same scale, and well preserved. The receipt for its purchase is still in the hands of the present accomplished Abbot, who speaks English fluently, and is most courteous to visitors. The monks were expelled from their property during the French Revolution in 1790, but purchased back the Convent in 1810. At the entrance to the monas- tery is a stately avenue of lime-trees, planted in the 16th cent. Tongerloo is distant 7 m. from Hérenthals, and 10 m. from Aerschot; carriage from the latter place, 7 frs. there and back] Continuing E, the rly. reaches Route 77.—Antwerp to Ddsseldmf. 245 27 m. Gheel Stat. (10,000), in the midst of the desolate tract of heath called the Campine (Kempen). The peasants here have for generations de- voted themselves to taking charge of lunatics brought from various :parts of Belgium, and numbering at present about 1300. The mild system of treating lunacy has long prevailed here, and lunatics not deemed danger- ous are allowed to walk about the streets. St. Dymphna, the patron saint of lunaties, daughter of a king of Ireland,is said to have suffered mar- tyrdom, decapitated by her own father (30th May, A.D. 600), from whom she had fled in order to devote herself to religion and virginity, in company with an aged priest named Gerebern. The cures wrought upon pilgrims to her shrine caused Gheel to become famous for the treatment of mental diseases. The *Church of St. Dymphna contains her altar and silver shrine, and two cabinets with paintings (of the school of Limburg) inserted, having curious and elaborate carving of stone and oak, representing the legends of the saint, a crucifixion, &c. The altarpz'ece, surmounted by the Holy Rood, is in the style of some of the retablos of the churches in Spain. Here is also a sculptured monument to John de Mérode and his wife (1550), supported by marble figures at the corners. Around the ch. are a num- ber of little cells where mad patients used to be exercised. Close by is a. railed inscription in Flemish, record- ing the Saint’s martyrdom. 32 m. Moll Junct. Stat. Rly. S. to Diest and Tirlemont (Rte. 71). 47 m; Neerpelt J unct. Stat, on the direct line between Utrecht and Liége (Rte. 20). - 52 m. Hamont Stat; Belgian Cus- tom-house. The frontier is crossed to 54 m. Budel Stat, the first in Hol- land, where luggage is examined. 75 m. Roermond J unct. Stat. Rly. S. to Maastricht, N. by Venlo (Rte. 19), 246 to (204 m.) Bremen and (266 m.) Hamburg. At 83 m. Vlodrop Stat, on the Boer, Holland is quitted, and Prussia entered a little short of 85 m. Dalheim Stat. tom-house. Hence to German Cus- 99 m. Miinchen-Gladbach J unct. Stat. Rly. N.W. to Venlo, S.W. to Aachen. 111 m. Neuss Junct. Stat. 113 m. Dusseldorf J unct. Stat. (See Handbook for N. Germany.) ROUTE 78. MENIN T0 s'r. AMAND. 38 m. RAIL. Quitting Menin (Rte. 36) this rly. crosses the Lys, and runs thencefor- ward entirely through French terri- tory. At 4 m. Halluin Stat, luggage is ex- amined, and the train proceeds S. to 8 m. Tourooing J unct. Stat. (53,000), famed for its manufacture of carpets and woollen yarn. Route 78.——Mem'n to St. Amend. Sect. II. A monument here commemorates a battle fought in the neighbourhood on May 18, 1794, when the Austrians and English,under the Duke of York, met with a. severe defeat from the French under Pichegru, losing 1000 killed, 2000 prisoners, and 60 cannon. The Duke escaped by the fleetness of his horse. [Rly. NE. to (3 m.) Mous- cron (Rte. 34); SW. to (8 m.) Lille (Rte. 33), passing on the l. (2 m.) Ronbaix Stat. (93,000). This in- dustrious town, which at the begin- ning of the present century contained only 8000 Inhab., has grown up to be the largest centre of the woollen manufacture in France. The modern French Prostestant Church is a fine building. 'nglz'sh service on Sunday at 11.30 AM. At Croix, 1 111. off, the next stat. on the line. is the largest wool-combing mill in the world; it employs many English workmen, for whom 9. ch. has been built, where divine service is performed twice on Sunday, by a resident chaplain] From Tourcoing the rly. continues a little E. of S., crosses a canal which connects the Deule with the Schelde, and passes a second stat, which serves the town of Roubaix from its E. side. 17 m. Ascq J unct. Stat, for Lille or Tournai (Rte. 33). 29 m. Orchies Junct. Stat, whence a line strikes SW. to (12 m.) Douaz‘. Turning 8.12., the train passes two unimportant stations on the way to 38 In. St. Amand-les-Eaux Junct. Stat, where is a fine ch. and ruins of a Benedictine monastery. Rly. S.E. to (10 m.) Valenciennes (Rte. 56). 7( 247) INDEX AND DIRECTORY. AA. A AA, river, 84, I48. ACHEL, 95. ADINKERQUE, 178. ADSEUX, litonnoir d’, 2 2 3. AELTRE, stat", 136. AERSCHOT, 209. 11. do l’Angc. AGIMONT, 233. AGRICULTURE land, 15. AIGREMONT, Chateau d’, 198. AISNE, river, 229. AIX LA CHAPELLE, 207. ALKMAAR, 67. Hotels: U. do *Toc- last, Koorstraat, close to the W. border of the town, horses and ear- rioges for hire; 1]. dc Burg, in the Hot, near the centre, towards the N. H. lVynkamp, l’aar- denmarkt, in the NJV. corner, 2nd class. Post Oflice: N.W. of the ll. de Burg. Telegraph Office in the Waag (Weighing House), E. of the same hotel. Diligence in 3.5 hrs. (carriage ‘2. hrs.) to Iluorn. ALOST, 2r 5. II. de Flamlrc; II. Duo dc Brabant. in Hol- .._..<>._.— Amsterdam. ALLE-SUR-SEMOIS, 2 I 7. H. Hoffman,- H. du Commerce. ALTSCHEID, 2 37. ALZETTE, vale of, 238. AMAND, ST., les Eaux, 24.6. AMAY, 198. AMBLEVE, river, valley, castle, 228. AMELAND, Isle, 8 3. AMERSFOORT, 72. 11. Z wann; H. Utrecht- sche Wapcn. AMOUGIES, junct., I77. AMPSIN, 198. AMSTEL, river, 5o. AMSTERDAM, 48. Hotels : Amstcl (E. 7), a vast establishment, with baths, telegraph and rly. booking-office, &c.; well-managed but noisy. R. 2 fl. ,1' D. at 5.250, 2% fl.; A. L. gfl. Bible (0. 4-), good and reasonable. R. and B. 2 fl. 30 c.; D. 2% fl.; A. L. 50 c. Brook’s Doe/en I]. (I). 15. 5), also good, similar charges. Pays Bus (E. 5), well spoken of; Adrian, and C’afé Neuf, two good 2nd class Inns in the Kalverstrant (D. 4). Charges at the latter, R. L. A. B. 2% fl.; D. 2% 11., including % bottle of wine. Bonded, Doelenstraat (E. 5). Amsterdam. The Bible Hotel takes its name from the first Bible printed in Holland by Van Liesveld, at his office on the premises, in 1542. The volume after- wards passed into the possession of the Scotch family of Cattermole, and is still preserved in the hotel. The numerous other hotels are not much re- commended to the Eng- lish traveller, except for luncheon. Restaurants: Kras- napolski, Warmoesstraat (C. 4-); JlIz'llc Colonnes, Rembrandtplein (E. 5); Port van Cleve, near the Post Office (D. 4) ; Pan- opticum, Amstelstraat, opp. the Theatre (E. 5); Bic/w (French), on the Rokin, 8.19. of the Dam (D. 4); Van Laar, N. endof the Kalverstraat, for oysters. (See also Rifles xlluseum.) Cafes : P00130716, Suisse, Nieuw Amsterdamsch, Francois, &c., in the l\'alverstraat; Continen- tal, close to the Amstel H. ; I’atiljocn, in the Vondelspark, near the Rijks Museum. Liqueurs : Wynand- Foo/sink, in the Pylsteeg, behind No. 19, Dam- -|-D.:Dinner; R.=ltoom; 13.: Breakfast; A.=Attendance; L. = Light. 248 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Amsterdam. straat, one of the curi- osities of Amsterdam. Here a glass (10 c.) of Curagoa or Half-en-half (Curacoa and Elixir), may be had in perfection. Ervcn Lucas Bols, 32, Kalverstraat. Confectioner: Fiji, 6, Kalverstraat. Baths: hot and cold, in the Heerengracht, W. of the Post Office (D. 3); in the Rokin (D. 4); at the E. Dock (B. 5). Swimming Baths at the Dijks Gracht (A. 7). Photographs : Parson, 218, Kalverstraat. Books: Muller, 286, Singel ; Engravings : Bzcfi‘a, 39, Kalverstraat. Post and Telegraph Office: W. of the Dam (D. 4). Several branch offices. Cabs, by the hour, 1 fl.; % hr., 70 c. At night (12 t0 6), 2 fl. and 1 fl. 20 c. Tramways start from the Dam (D. 4) at fre- quent intervals, travers- ing the principal streets; also from the Leidsche- plein (F. 4). Fare, 12% cents. Steam tram from the Haarlemmerplein to Sloterdijk every hour; and other suburban lines. Steamers from the Prins Hendrikkade (B. 4) every % hr. t0 the Zceburg Cafe‘ and garden; from the Ruyterkade several times daily to Broch, ll'Ionnihen- dam, Edam, and Parme- rcnd ; to Ymuz‘dcn on the North Sea twice daily; rare, lst return, 1 fl. Theatres : S t a d s- schouwburg (F. 4); Grand Theatre (E. 5); Angleur. these are for Operas and high-class drama, and are open only in winter. Sa- lon des Variétés, close to the latter, for Prome- nade Concerts, &c., Where smoking is allowed. Fras- cati (D. 7), close to the Botanical Gardens, and Parkschouwburg (C. 6), N. of the Park, for popu- lar pieces. Paleis voor Volksvlijt (F. 6), a vast national building (Palace of Industry), used for a variety of entertain- ments, musical perform- ances, &c. Concerts at several of the above; also in the Plant/1570 (C. 7), the ad- joining Zoological Gar- dens, and the Vonclclsparh (G. 4). Consulates: Great Britain, 212, Heeren- gracht; United States, ‘20, Doelenstraat. English Church Ser- vice: on Sun. at 10.30, Grocneburgwal (D. 5); Presbyterian, near the lower end of the Kalvcr- straat (E. 4). Money Changers: A-nspach and Donia, near the Post Office. Amsterdam to Emme- rich, 7 3. Amsterdam to Enhhui- zen, 70. Amsterdam to Essen, 71 Amsterdam to the Hzguo, 78. A mstcrdam to the Holder, 65. Amsterdam to Utrecht, 73- ANGRE, Chateau d’, 227. ANDENNE, 179. ANDERLECHT, I73. ANGLEUR, junct., 2 2 7. 206, Antwerp. ANNA PAULOWNA, stat, 69. ANELLE, stream, 211. ANOR, junct., 205. ANSEGHEM, junct., I75. ANSEMBURG, ruins of, 2 38. ANSEREMME, 2 32. H. an chos dos Artistes, pens. 5 frs. ANTOING, castle, I54. ANTWERP, 110. Hotels: *Dc l’L'zu‘opc (1, E. 6), English landlord, excellent, and *St. An- toine (2, E. 6), both in the Place Verte; first class, with the usual charges. Grand La- bourcur (3, D. 5), 26, Place de Meir. H. de la Paix (6, E. 6), 9, Rue des Menuisiers. Flandre, in the Place Verte (5, E. 6). Graml ilIe'roz'r, 58, Vieux Marché au Blé (F. 5). Commerce, near the Bourse (D. 5). On the Schelde, noisy and 2nd class, H. du [thin (4, F. 5) ; Angleterrc, close by; Hollamlc, stand- ing a little back in the Rue de I’Etuve. Restaurants: *Bcr- trancl, 11, Place de Meir; *Ilzrcrrze It’oyalc, ‘25, Place de Meir; *Rocher de Cancale, 19, Place de Meir, close to the Ex- change; all of the first class. Fleur (l’Or, 1, Ruelle des Moines; Ta- u’rnc Rhcingau, No. 1, in the passage leading to the Bourse; Taverna Crcts, corner of Place Verte (oysters). Kursaal, with Restau- rant attached, on the opposite bank of the Schelde. G a. f e s : Emporcw, INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 249 Antwerp. Place de Meir; Sutsse, Place Verte. Confectioners: Men- rz'sse, 50, Marche’ aux Oeufs. Physician: Dr. Vaude- ville, 37, Rue de l’Hopi- tal, speaks English. Chemist: Comein, 2-}, Marché aux Souliers. Dentist: Dr. Pouveur, 4‘2, Rue des Tanneurs. Books: Forst, 12, Rue du Jambon; Boltiztlz and Aelsermann, 29, Place Verte; A. de Decker, 35, Rue Nationale. Photographs: Zazza- rinz', 37, Marche’ aux Souliers; Dreyfuss, 3, Marché aux Souliers. Money Changer: God- dz’ng, Pont de Meir. Baths : Bain Royal, Rue Reynders (F. 6); Baz’ns St. Pierre, Rue Van Noort, S. of the Avenue Van Eyck (D. 8). Swimming bath at the end ofthe Rue Bre’de- rode, beyond G. 9. British Consul-Gene- ral: E. A. Grattan, Esq., 67, Place de Meir. Office, 7, Rue des Apotres. U. S. Consul: J. H. Steuart, Esq., Chaussée de Malines. English Church in the Rue des Tanneurs (E. 6). Chaplain, {ev. Andrew Pryde. Services at 11 and 7; Wed. and Saints’ d a ys, 1 1 . Alara'ners’ Church and Institute, Avenue du Commerce. Chaplain, Rev. James Hitchens. Post Office on the S. side of the Place Verte. Telegraph Office at the stat. and Exchange. Telephone at most ho— tels and restaurants, Antwerp. and in some of the waiting-rooms of the tramway. Cabs in the Place Verte and other open spaces. 2 persons, 1 fr. the course; 4 persons, 1 fr. 50 c.; at night, 2 fr. or 2 fr. 50 c. By the hour, 2 persons, 1 fr. 50 0.; 4 persons, 2 fr. 50 c. Each trunk, ‘20 c. Open carriages are a little dearer, and two- horse carriages cost half as much again. Tramway from the Stat. to the Place Verte, and along all the princi- pal thoroughfares, at a very trifling charge. Steamers to London by Gen. Steam Nav. C0. 3 times a week; Baron 03y every Wed. Harzrz’ch daily except Sun. Hull and Grimsby, twice a week. Glasgow, New- castle, Leltlz, and Ham- burg, once a week. Agents for the Grimsby steamers, Buys and Co., 9, Quai aux Charbons. New Museum shortly to be opened at the S. end of the town (F. G. 8). Theatres .' Royal, per- formance in French (D. 6); Schouwburg, or Flemish Theatre (C. 5); Variétés, near the Ch. of St. George (E. '7). Popular dramatic enter- tainments at the Palais Indian, Avenue Wappers (C. 6), and the Scale, between it and the Place de la Commune. Also at the Eldorado and Alhambra. Concerts at the Cercle Artistique and Royal Harmony Society; strangers ad- mitted. Arnhem. Antwerp to Calais di- rect. Passengers change carriages at Schaerbcek and Brussels (Stat. du Nord). Antwerp to Brussels, 190. Antwerp to Charleroz', 207. Antwerp to Ddsseldorf, 245. Antwerp to Ghent by St. Nicholas or by Ter- monde, 188. Antwerp to Maastrtclzt, 209. Antwerp to Rotterdam, I 9 I . Antwerp to Tilbury, I 8 9. APELDOOBN, 72. H. Mariam,- H. Kel- zerskroon. APPINGEDAM, 84. ARDENNE, Chateau d’, 232. ARDENNES, Forest of, 2 3o. ARDRES, stat., I48. ARGENTEAU, 95. ARLON, 225. H. du Nord; II. de l’Europe, both very fair. Annnnrrnnns, junct., 149, I76- ARNEMUIDEN, 18. ARNHEM, 77. Hotels: *H. du Solez'l (Zon), nearest the stat.; *Belleeue, further E.; Zwynshoofd (Boar’s Head), in the town; Paauw (Peacock), near the stat., unpretending. Pension, Planten en Vo- geltuin, dear. Restaurant at the stat., and Cafe‘ Central. Tramway through the town; steam tramway to Oosterbeek and Wage- ningen. 250 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Artevelde. Gab from the stat., 75 o. ‘ Steamers 111 both di- rections on the Rhine, daily. English Church Ser- vice on the 2nd Sunday of the month, at the Inner Mission Hall. Arnhem to Cologne, 97. Arnhem to Lccuwarden, 81. Anrnvnmn, J.VAN, 142. ARY SCHEFFER, birth- place, 20. A500,, junct, I51, 246.’ ASSCHE, 195. ASSEN, 85 . 11. Homer. ATH, 154. H. Duqzwsnc, near the stat. ATHUS,j11nct., 243. AUBEL, 244. AUBERT, ST., Mt., 153. AUBY, 242. 11. do [a Grotto. AUDEGHEM, junct., 188. AUDENARDE (see Ozldcn- ardc). AULNE, abbey, 19 3. AULNOYE, junct., 21 2. AUTELBAS, 226. AUTELHAUT, 226. AVELGHEM, junct., I77. AVERBODE, monastery, 209. AYWAILLE, 228. H. do limmnbourg; H. dc Liege. B BAARN, 72. BAERODE, 188. BAISIEUX, stat, 151. BAISY, 214. BARAQUE m: BRAI- TURE, 229. BARAQ‘UE m: Sr. MI- CHEL, 236. Bertrix. BARNEVELD, of, 29. BARRAGE DE LA GI— LEPPE, 207. BARVAUX, 229. H. dc Liége ; H. de Z’Aigle Nair. BAS OHA, 197. BASSILY, junct, I77. BASTOGNE, 24.1. Rly. Hotel, best; H. Collin, Place Carrée; none good. BATTICE, 244. BAUTERS, junct., execution I54, 192, 214. BEAUFORT, Chateau de, 2 38. BEAUFRAIPONT, term, 227. BEAURAING, 2 3 2. H du Ofntn’, pension, 5 frs. BEAUSAINT, 229. BEEKHUIZEN, 77. II. (lanai, pension, 3% fl. BEEMSTER, the, 69. BELGIAN cities and archi— tecture, 103. BELGIG LION, The, 218, 220. BELGIUM, Introductory Information, 98—108. BELLE ALLIANCE, LA, 219. BELOEIL, 18o. BENNEBROEK, 37. BENONCHAMPS, 24L BENTHEIM, 7 3. H. 191111 Bent/win». BERCHEM, 190. BERGEN (see Jlons). BERG-EN-DAL, 90. BERGEN 0P ZOOM, 19. H. I’rins can Lug/l.- ,- Hof can Holland. BERGUES, 177. BERNISSART, 180. BERTRIX, 241. H. dcs Postcs. chai- Boks Meet. Bnnzfin, junct., 216, 2 39. BETTINGEN, junct., 226 2 38. BETUWE, island, 77. BEUGEN, junct., 93, 96. BEVEREN, 189. BEVERST, junct., 209. BEVERWIJK, 65. BEYNE, 244. BIERSET, castle, 205. BIERVLIET, 18. \ BIEVRE, 241. Inn: Viroua). BINGHE, 239. BIRBAIX, clniteau, 223. BISSEGHEM, 174. BLANC-MISSERON, 21L BLANDAIN, stat, I5 I. BLANKENBERGHE, I 3 6. Hotels: on the sea, I]. Lies Rains. front rooms expensive; H. Continen- tal,- H. deb Rhin; H. (ioddvris, H. Pauu‘els d’IIondt, H. Victoria. In the town, H. Lion. d’ 01', H. ([6 Brugcs; 2nd class, H. do [a Pair, H. d’Hondt, H. Bullcuue. Lodgings are numerous, but should be engaged early in the season. Bathing Machines, Boats, and Donkeys: charge much the same as at Ostend. English Church Ser~ vice at 10.45 and 3.30 during the season only; Rue Breydel, corner of Rue des Boulangers. BLATON. junct.., 180. BLOEMENDAAL, 46. BOCQ, rivulet, 231. BODEGRAVEN, Stilt, 80. BOHAN, 217. Inns: Laplanqzw; Pgn- C0161} BOIS-LE-DUC (see Horto- gcnbosc/z). Borrsronr, 22 3. Boxs MEER, 93. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 251 Bolsward. Botswana), 84. BOMAL, 229. H. do la Station. BOMMEL, 94. H. Gottschalk. BOMMEL, island, 88. BONNE ESPERANOE, junct., 239. BOOM, 181, 188, 215. BOORTMEERBEEK, 187. BOUILLON, 241. “‘11. do la Paste, 0n the right bank; H. ([(3 Ar- domes, opposite Post Olfice, Rue de l’ Eglise. BO‘USSU, 2 I I. BOUSSU-EN-FAGNE, 234. BOUVIGNE, 231. BOUVINES, 151. BOXTEL, 87, 94, 96. (lruml Hotel, opposite stat; Rly. Restaurant. BRAINE L’ALLEUD, 192, 244. H. (in Mdi. Omn. to Waterloo and back, 1 fr. 50 c. BRAINE - LE - COMTE, junct., 213, 216. BREDA, 86. Do Kroon, in the prin- cipal street, good food; R.A., 1 H. 80 c.; D., 1 fl. 50 c.; B., 50 c.; omn. 25 C. De Zwamz, close by. Rly. Restau- rant. Braid to Cologne, 96. BREDERODE, castle, 46; ruins of, 64. BRESKENS, fort, 18, 196. BREUKELEN, junct., 74, 78. BRIALMONT, Chateau de, 22 7. BRIEGNE, valley, 2;6. BRIELLE, 25. BROEK, 63. BRUGELETTE, 215. BRUGES, 128. Hotels: *1]. do Com- Brummen. meme (plan E. 4, 5), old- established and comfort- able; *H. de Flandre (plan E. 5): good fish dinner at both on Friday. Table d’hote at 1 (3 frs.) ; but a late dinner can always be arranged (4 frs.). H. du Sablon, pen- sion (6 frs.). H. de Lon- dres, opposite the stat. (E. 6), and H. de l’Uni— vyrs, close by. Unpre- tending, H. St. Amend, W. of the Grande Place (D. 5); H. Pam'er d’0r, on the N. side. Restaurants : Café Fay, and Vogel (German), both in the Grande Place ; Aiglo d'Or, 16, Place de la Monnaie, S. of the Rue St. Jacques (D. 5). Confectioners (good chocolate, &c.) : Delarue, 57, Rue des Pierres (D. 6); Kocntz-Bogaert, 36, in the same street. Booksellers: Beyaert- Storic, 6, Rue N. Dame (also photographs and wood—carvings); Clacys, 83, Rue des Pierres. Newspaper Agents: Van Nicuwcnhuysc, 2, Grande Place. Cubs: 1 fr. for the drive; 1% fr. an hour. Post and Telegraph Office: Rue de Cordoue (D. 5). English Church in the Rue des Baudets (fol— me1ly Ustcnde, plan E. 3). Chaplain, Rev. V. Hughes Hallett. Sunday service at 11 and 3.30 (in summer, 7 P.M.). Brugcs to Courtraz', I84. Brugcs to Ghent, 196. BRUMAGNE, chateau, 1 9 7. 331111111511, 82. Brussels. BRUSSELS, 155. Railway Stations.— 1. Station du Midi (B. 1) for Waterloo, Tournai, and Paris—2. Station du Nord (B. 6) for Calais, Ostend, Antwerp, Hol- land, and Louvain. —3. Station du Quartier Léo- pold (E. 3) for Namur, Luxemburg, and Basel, many of the t1 ains start- ing from the Station du Nord, which is connected with this stat. by a loop- line. The Goods station adjoins the Allée Verte (A. 6). The Chemin dc Fer do Ceinture, which does not, however, com- pletely surround the city, connects the three sta- tions. Hotels: In the upper town, lst class : Bellevue, large, aristocratic, and well situated ((1. C. 3); universal complaints of extortion; dinner, 6 frs., without wine. *H. de Flandre (f. C. 3), adja- cent. *H. de l’Europe (e. C. 3), nearly oppo- site; all in the busy Place Royale. Barber’s *H. de France (g. C. 4-), a comfortable English family hotel, facing the Park; excellent dinner, 5 frs., pension from 10 frs. *II. Mmgelle (h. C. 5), comfortable. *H. Britannique (i. D. 3); quiet and well situated. 2nd class: Culliford’s English H. (k. C. 3); W’i/tc/zer’s Family 11., 23, Boulevard de Waterloo. In the lower town, lst class: *Grand Hotel (1. B. 4), large and well- managed; prices on the higher floors not unrea- sonable. *1]. do Hol- 252 , INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Brussels. lands (in. C. 3), long established and comfort- able. *II. de l’Z/Bzirers (n. B. 5), entered from the Boulevard du Nord and Rue Neuve, excellent. H. de Saxe and *II. de Z’Empereur (c. B. 5), ad- joining each other; both well spoken of, and con— veniently near the North— ern Rly. Stat. *11. de Suede (b. B. 4), old- fashioned and well-con- ducted. At all these, except the first, charges are somewhat lower than at the hotels in the upper town. 2nd class: *1]. de Bordeaux (0. B. 3), quiet ; dejeuner, 2 frs.; dinner from 1 to 7, 2 frs. 50 c. ”‘11. dd Grand Cafe, Rue des Eperonniers, one of the oldest in Brussels, small ; first-rate cooking. II. de la Pesto (p. B. 4), good table d’hote at 3 frs. 50 0., rooms rather poor and small. Grande Mo- narqne (r. B. 4) and H. de Vienna (s. B. 4), well spoken of. All these, ex- cept the first, are better for dining than sleeping. II. Central, with Cafe, Place de la Bourse. Near the Southern Rly.: II. Bruxelles, opposite the stat.; II. de jlfunieli, corner of Avenue du Midi; Richelieu, at the Mid. Stat. At the Stat. du Nord, opposite depar- ture platform: H. Co- logne, H. Angleterre, H. Lie'geois, with English bar. Pensions: choc/c’s .F'ainily Hotel, P l a c e Louise (t. C. l), and numerous others, almost equally good and com- fortable. As it is im- Brussels. possible to give a list of half of them, and as they are often full, the travel- ler is recommended to apply to IlIr. Scott, House Agent, 28, Avenue Toison d’Or (Boulevard de Waterloo, D. 2), or to .Mr. Sufiell, money- changer, &c., 81, Mon- tagne de la Cour, who will give all requisite in- formation free of charge. In the town, Pension Heymann, 2, Rue des Oeillets, corner of Place des Martyrs. Restaurants: lst class and expensive: *I'B-Ores Proz'cngaur, facing the Park, next door to H. de France. *C’afe‘ Jtielie, 23, Rue de l’Ecuyer. *Dnbost, 23, Rue de la Putterie. H. Pare (lllJ: Huitres, 23, Boulevard Anspach; dinner, 2 frs. 75 c. Reehcr dc Cancale, oppOsite H. de la Poste. Serin, No. 35 in the same street. II. Itlzenania, corner ofRues des Princes and Leopold. English Grill Room, for chops and steaks, &-c., ‘23, Rue Grétry. Brasserie de Manic/1, with garden, 16, Rue Namur. Taverns, or 2nd class Restaurants, for sand- wiches (50 c.), good Eng- lish stout or ale (30 c.), or a cheap and substantial luncheon: In the upper town: *T. (In Globe, and *T. de la Iteyence, on op- posite sides of the Place Royale. .T. Guillaume, and British Tarern, both facing the Library, to the l. of H. de l’l‘iurope. T. Fontaine, 136, Rue Roy-ale. Tarerne Iloyale, N. end of Galerie St. Brussels. Hubert, and Cafe Rest. (la la Renaissance, half-way down. English Tavern, Old Tom Tavern, and Café des Trois Suisses, all close together beside the Theatre, Rue des Princes. T. de JIunich, 60, Rue Madeleine; T. de St. Jean, ‘20, Rue St. Jean. Taverna Fritz, 40, Rue Anspach; T. Joseph, .52, Rue Anspach; Eden Tavern, 1, Rue En- seignements. Cafes: Mille Colonnes and others in the Place de la Monnaie; 0. Tem- pliers, opposite the Ex- change; 0. (In Grand IIétel, Boulevard An- spach; all in the lower town. Confectioners: * Gem's- Gunpion, 313, Rue Marché aux llerbes; l’srrlnans, 74, Montague de la Cour; De Bloc/c, next door; Sansen, 33, Rue de Na- mur; lVe/irli, 40, Rue Auspach ; Dietige - Put- zeg/s, 15, Boulevard du Nord; Georges illnrtin, 8, Rue Treurenberg, good 1063. Railway Provisions: 40, Rue de la Madeleine. Edwin T Izemas, 6, Fossé aux Loups (also English bar); 4-7, Rue Anspach; liloeberglz, 116, Boule- vard du Nord. close to stat.; Praise, :29, corner of Rue 'l‘reureuberg and Rue lloyale. Wine at No. 4, Rue de l’Empereur; Clzemelet, 4, Rue de l’lfleu- yer; Brias, 5, Rue Can- tersteen. Greek wines, 20 c. a glass, at the Jardin d’Hiver, corner of Boule- vard de la Senne and du Nord. Also next door to the Bourse Theatre. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 253 Brussels. Baths: 75, Boulevard Anspach. Bains Leopold, 12, Rue des Trois Totes; swimming bath reserved for ladies on Tues., Thurs. and Sat. from 6 till 11.30. St. Gilles Swimming Bath, 8, Rue de la Glaciere, open in summer from 6 AM. to 8 RM. Bain Royal, 10a, Rue du Moni- teur. Bains St. Sauoear, at the end of Rue Fossé aux Loups. Bankers: Brugmann 1ils, Rue d’Arenberg; Bigwood and Morgan, 8, Rue Royale; Delloyc and C0., 48, Rue Royale. Booksellers: Im- brcchts, 7 2, Montague de la Cour; C. Muquardt, 20, Rue des Paroissiens; Mayolez, adjoining the University, scientific; Armes’ English Library, 86, Montague de la Cour. La Lecture Universelle, lending library, 2 frs. a month; rare and curious books on sale; 14-, Rue d’Areuberg. Photographs: JlIeule- mans, 70, Rue de la Madeleine; Ibfi'mann, 32, Rue Loxum; C'crfs, Ga- lerie St. Hubert. Brussels Lace: Georges fllartz'n; 1, Rue de la Régence; Bowl do Bee/.3 74, Rue Royale; Bacrt, 26, Place des Martyrs; T. dcs film-es, 15, Rue Chancellerie; Des Ver- gnies, 26, Rue des Parois- siens; Lavalettc, 14 in the same street; Pceters, Place Belliard. Gloves : Jordon - Bar- thelc‘mey, 84, line lioyale; Leclzcin, 4, Rue Loxuin; Decat, 68, Marehé aux llerbes. Brussels. Tailor: Dehaene, 13, Rue Loxum. Money Changers : Lambert, 50, Rue Na- mur; Sufiell, 81, Mon- tagne de la Cour. The traveller is recommended to have as little to do with money-changers in Brussels as possible, as they seldom give fair exchange. Rly. Booking Office, 130, Boulevard du Nord, close to stat.; 25 and 46, Montague de la. Cour. British Legation: 2, Rue (18 Spa. Minister, Lord Vivian; Secretary, Hon. Ernest Lyon. Vice Consulate: 35, Rue d’Edimbourg. Vice- Consul, .Mr. Jefies. U. S. Minister: Hon. Lambert Tree, 43, Rue Belliard; Consulate, 1, Place du Tréne. English Church Ser- vice: C’h. of the Resurrec— tion, Rue Stassart; daily prayers at 11; frequent services on Sun. Chap- lain, Rev. J. C. Jenkins, M.A. Ch. in the Rue Belliard; chaplain, Rev. A. K. Harlock, M.A. Christ 0/1., Rue CresPel (Colonial and Continen- tal); chaplain, Rev. W. R; Stephens, MA. English Priests at the Carmellte C/L., Avenue de la Toison d’Or. Physician: Dr. Thom- son, 14, Rue Egmont. English Chemist : Del- acre, 80, Montague de la Cour. American Dentist: Dr. lbllelnaehe J. Bull, 1, Rue Joseph II. Theatres: Theatre Royal de la Monnaie (operas); stalls, 6 frs., Brussels. and 1 fr. for booking; office open from 12 to 3. Vaudeville, in the Galerie St. Hubert, for dramas, comedies, &c. Flemish Theatre, Rue de Laeken. T. du Parc, ad- joining the Vauxhall Gar- den. Eden Theatre, Rue de la Croix de Fer (varie- ties). Bourse Theatre, on the Boulevard An- spach. Hippodrome (circus), a fine building on the Boulevard de Hainault. Concerts in the Con- servatoire de Musique (C. 2); at the Alhambra. (Theatre du Cirque, B. 4, 5); at'the Palais de la Bourse, opposite the Exchange; and at the Vauxhall Gardens in the Park. Cabs : One horse, 1 fr. for g. hr., and 50 c. for every additional } hr. Two horses, half as much again from 1 Apr. to 30 Nov.; twice as much from 1 Dec. to 31 March. Double fares from mid- night till 6 in summer, or 7 in winter. Tramways along all principal thoroughfares, except the hilly narrow streets of the old town. The chief starting-points are the rly. stations and Place Royale. Depar- tures every 10 or 20 min.; fare, 10 to 60 6. Steam Tramway from the Porte de Namur to the Race Course at Boisfort, along the Chaussee (Phones; and by the Chaussee de Wavre to the entrance of the Bois de la Cambre. Electric Tramway from the Place Royale 254 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Brusthem. along the Rue Belliard, and from the Rue Royale to the Place de l’Exposi- tion. Street Porters, dressed in white; 50 c. an errand, or small parcel. Brussels to 2 3 9. Brussels to Cologne, 204. A wagon—restaurant accompanies the exp. trains. Déjeuner, 3 frs. 50 0.; dinner, 5 £15.; wine included. Clzimay, Brussels to .Eeeloo, 195. Brussels ‘ to Givet, 243 Brussels to Luxemburg, 22 3. Brussels to Namur, 192. Brussels to Paris, 210. Brussels to I'eruiers, 204. Brussels to lVaterloo, 2 1 7. BRUSTHEM, 24o. BUDEL, 245. BUIKSLOOT, 6 3. BULBOUS PLANTS Haarlem, 45. BURST, junct., 176. in C CADSAND, 1 7. CALAIS, I47. 11. llleuriee; II. Dvssin; II. du Commerce; H. de Londres. Rly. Buffet. Calais to Brussels, 148. CAMPERDOWN, 69. Canals, 8. Canal, North Sea, 6 3, 64. Canal, North Holland, 63. CAPELLEN, 191. CASSEL, 176. CAVERNS near Rochefort, 224. CELLES, 2 32. GHALEUX, 2 32. Colonster. CHARLEROI, 193. II. Dourz'n, good. Rly. Bufi‘et. Charlcroi to Gioet, 216. Charlero'i to Mons, 22 3. CHARLES V. at Ghent, 145. CHASSEPIERRE, 241. A CHATEAU REGNAULT (MONTHERME), 2 I 7. Auberge Valet, the stat. CHATEA‘ULINEAU, junct., 1 9 3. Clariteaullneau to Tublze, 244. CHATELET, 193. CHAUDFONTAINE, 206. *Grand 11¢;th dos Bains (pension, 7 to 10 frs.); H. d’Ang/letcrre. CHAUVEAUX,cavern, 2 3 1. CHENEE, junct., 206, 244. CHIMAY, 2 39. H. de l’Unz‘vers; II. Bellevue. CRIMES at Zutphen, 12; in Belgium, 104. CHOKIER, chitean, 198. CIERGNON, 2 3 2. Auberge de la Veuve Graldc. CINEY, 22 . 11. Comb-02', in the town; Grand Hotel, at the stat. CLABECQ, 244. CLERVAUX, 2 37. H. Keener. CLEVE, 97. II. fifty/roam, S. of the town ; Bad/cote], with garden, on W. side; Bob- bers; Looe/r, near the Post Ollice ; [IU/ch‘m, near the Schwanenburg. COLMAR BERG, junct., 23 8. near Junct, 2 3 9, COLONSTER, chiteau, 22 7. Delfshaven. 0 0 M B L AI N-AU-I’ONT, 2 2 8; H. Renaville Nluane; H. Bellevue. COMBLAIN LA TOUR, 2 29. COMINES, junct., I 76, 184. CONTICH, junct., 190. Conz, 227. 000 CASCADE, 2 36. CORBION, 242. If. filereier. CORTEMARCK, 179, 183. COUILLET, 216. COURGELLES, 1,93. COURT ST. - ETIENNE, junct., 208, 214. COURTRAI, 173. II. Lion (l’Or, II. Damiel'; both good and reasonable, close together in the Grande Place. Rly. Bug/"ct. Prof. (VII. in the Faubour}: de Tournni; Sun. 11.30. Courtrai to Brussels, 175. Courtrai to Jinghz‘eu, junct., 1 7 7. Courtrai to [Ia :cbrouelc, I 76. COUVIN, 2 I 7. CRANENBURG, stat, 9 7. CREFELD, 97. H. lVildur Jlanu. CREVECCEUR, castle, 23 r. CROIX, 246. CULEMBORG, 94. D DADIZEELE, 176. DALHEIM, 246. DAMME, 136. DAMPICOURT, :43. DAMPREMY, 244. DAVE, 231. DE BILT, 76, 80. DELDEN, 7 3. H. Carelsluu‘eu. DELFSHAVEN, 24. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 255 Delft. DELFT, 26. H. Hcrrcnlogenwnt, near the Haagsehe Poort. Tramway from the Rotterdamsche Poort through the town to the Hague. Stcanwr to Rot- terdam 6 times a. day in 1% hr. DELFZIJL, 84. DEMER, river, 209. DENDER, river, 187. DENDERLEEUW, junct., 215. DENDERMONDE (see T crmondc). DENIS Bovssss, ST., 224. DEVENTER, 8 2. H. Engcl, H. Moriaan ,- at the stat., H. Kcz'zer. DEYNSE, junct, I74, 179. DIAMOND-CUTTING at Amsterdam, 62. DIEKIRCH, 238. H. dos Ardcmws, scanty food, pension, 5 frs.; H. de Luxembourg; II. dc la JIIaison Rouge. DIEMER MEER, the, 73. DIEREN, 81. DIEST, junct., 209, 240. DIEUPART, Church of, 2 2 8. DILIGENGES and car- riages in Belgium, 99. DINANT, 231. Hotels : H. dos Postcs, the largest; universal complaints of incivility and extortion. II. Tétc d’Or, Grande Place, good but noisy. II. dvs Ar- dcnncs, quiet and prettily situated. H. Bullevw, unpretendiug. Post 06.06: In the Rue Grande, near the Palais de Justice. Two-horse carriage to the Grotto of Hall (20 m.), 25 frs.; to Ciergnon, 20 frs.; to .Celles and Chateau dc Dunkirk. Noisy, 10 frs. ; to Mared- sous Abbey, 15 frs.; to Montaigle, 15 frs.; to the Chateau de Freyr, 8 frs. DIXMUNDE, junct, 179. DOESBORGH, 8L H. Gclria. DOETIGHEM, junct., 80. DOIsscHE, stat, 233, 243. DOKKUM, 84. DOLHAIN, 207. H. d’Allcmagnc. DOORNIK (see Tour-ital). DORDRECHT, 19. H. Belleuuc, near land- ing - place of steamers, with a cheerful look-out over the Waal ; Armcs dc Hollandc. Restaurant at stat. Dordrccht to Arnhem or Nymcgcn, 88. DORNBURG, 19. H. des Bains; H. Schmi- tcrshof. Omnibus to Middelburg, 1 fl.; car- riage, 6 fl. DORT, Synod of, 20. DOUAI, 211. H. dc Versailles. DOUR, 211. DOVER to Ostcnd in 3 hrs., by the Belgian Gov. large steamer ‘ Princesse Henriette,’ well-fitted and comfortable. DRIEBERGEN, 76. Drinking water, 4. DRY TOREN, 191. DUFFEL, 190. DUIVELSBERG, 90. Dumas, 9. DUNES, Battle of the, 178. DUNKIRK, I 7 7. Grand Hotel ,- Flandrc. Dunlclrk to Ghent, I 77. H. (20 Erenz. DURBUY, 229. H. de la Montagne; H. Truck. DURME, river, I89. D’USSELDORF, junct., 96. Dykes, 7. E Emussmss, junct., 216, 239. ECHTERNACH, 238. Inn: Hirsch, good. EDAM, 71. EDIE, stat, 77. EECLOO, junct’., 196. EGHEZEE, 197, 240. EGMOND-BINNEN, 69. EGMOND: or DEN HOEF, 68. EGMOND AAN ZEE, 68. EINDHOVEN, 87. H. Hof van Holland. EISCH, river, 238. ELST, stat, 93. ELTEN, stat., 78, 97. EMBRESIN, 24o. EMDEN, 84.. EMMERICH, 78. H. Walters, near the stat. EMS, river, 84. ENGHIEN, 154.. H. Lcmerez'cr, 100 yds. from the stat. ; H. Royal, S. of the ch. ENGIHOUL, bone - caves, 198. ‘ ENGIS, 198. ENKHUIZEN, 71. H. Omnjczaal. ENOUF, ironworks, 197. ENSGHEDE, 73. EPPEGHEM, 190. EPRAVE, 224. H. JIarnefl‘e. ERASMUS, statue of, at Rotterdam, 21. EREMITAGE DE LA MON- TAGNE, 195. ERENZ, river, 238. 256 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Erquelinnes. ERQUELINNES, 196. ESCAUT, river, 179, 181. ESCH—LE-TROU, 238. Inn: Grcz'sch. ESEMAEL, 205. ESNEUX, 227. H. du Pont, lower town ; H. Cobus, near the ch. ESSCHEN, stat., 191. Bufict. ESSEN, junct., 73. TONNOIR D’ADSEUX, 228. ETTELBRt‘ICK, 238. II. Koch, on the bridge, good food and rooms, moderate charges; 11. Luxembourg. ETTERBEEK, junct., EUPEN, 207. EVERE, 17;. EYSDEN, 95. j unct., .23. F FALLAIS. 24;. FALMIGNOUL, 2 3 2. FAURGSULX, junct., 223, 2 39. FEIGNIES, junct., 212. FERME DE PALOGNE, 229. FEXHE, stat... :05. FIELD OF THE CLOTH OF GOLD, I48. FIJENOORD, 20, 191. FLEMALLE, junet., I99. ELENA, 180. FLERON, 244. FLEURUS, 209. H. JlIouton Blane. FLOREFFE, 193. FLORENNES, 243. FLORENVILLE, 242. If. do Ia Paste; H. (in Conuncrcc. FLOYE, river, 231. FLUSHING, I 7. H. Due do ll’c‘llz'ngton; Gelders. 11'. du Commerce; both poor. Buffet at pier stat, not good. Protes- tant Service on alternate Sundays in the Kleine Markt, 10.30. Flushing to Queen- borough in 7% hrs., daily at 12 noon and 10 P.M. Flushing to ilIalilws, 18o. Flushing to Nynwgcn, 90. FOND DES QUARREUX, 228. FONTENOY, battle - field, 154. FOREST, stat., 155. FORRIERES, 225. FORUM HADRIANA, 36. FRAMERIES, 180, 212. FRANCHIMONT, Towers of, 234. FRANCORCHAMPS, 236. FRANEKER, 84. H. Korenbeurs. FRENE, 231. FREYR, Chateau de, 2‘2, 2 3 ;. FROISSART, burial-place, 2 3 9. FUMAY, 2 I 7. Small Inn at the stat. ; 11. do la Pesto, in the town. FURFOOZ, 2 3 2. In: Bar. FURNES, 178. U. do [a Noble Rose. G Gardens and Summer- Houses in Holland, 10. GEDINNE. 241. H. Barjot; II. Lion d’Or. GEEK, river, 95. GELDERMALSEN, junct., 89. 94- GELDERS, junct, 9 7. Ghent. GEMBLOUX, junct., 205, 22 3. GEMEINDEBERG, 2 38. GENAPI’E, 214. H. des Voyageurs. GENNEP, 96. General View of Belgium, 101. General View of Holland, 4. GHEEL, 245. H. de l’Agncan. GHENT, 136. Hotels: *If. ([0 la Paste, H. Royal, both in the Place d’Armes, first class; dinner, 4 frs. *I[. do l’icnnc, Marché aux Grains; II. Lion (l’Or, commercial. Restaurants: Rocker do Cancalo, and Taverna Sf. Jam, both in the Mam-he aux Oiseaux; (3th ([1'8 .lrvas, on the E. side of the Place d’Armes. Grand 0.111; Rue Courte des Marais, N.W. corner of the Place d’Armes. British Consul: Mr. Hallet, 30, Rue Fieve. U.S.A. Consul, Mr. Polacheck, 17, Place Comte de Flandre. Confectioner: In ll'u/f - Prom/wile, Rue Digue do lirabant. Choco- late at the (lrilnuric, R110. de Flandre. Chemist: Pals, 6, Place Calandre. Money Changers: J). (Vcrcq ct Poms, l‘laec d’Armes. Bookseller: Hosfv, 49. Rue des Champs. Newspaper Agent. C/vnnn, 24, Rue de l’Uni‘ versité. English Tailor: Wad- put Lebrnn, Rue Longuc du Marais. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. ' 257 Ghislain. Bootmaker: Eugém Vandcn 303, Place d’Armes. Cabs: 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 50 c. the hour. Tramway, 15 c. Eng. Service in the Rue Digue de Brabant (C. 4), and at St. John’s Ch., Place St. Jacques (B. 3). Post and Telegraph Ofiice, near the S.W. corner of the Place d’Armes. Ghent to Charlcroi, 2 16. Ghent to JUONS, I 79. GHISLAIN, ST., junct., 180, 210. GHISTELLES, 18 3. H. de l’Europe. GHYVELDE, I 78. GILLES-WAE S, ST., junct., 189. GIL LY—SART-ALLET, junct., 244. GIVET (N. DAME), 2 33. H. filont d’Or; H. dc Z’Ancrc, near the bridge. GOGH, junct., 96, 97. GODINNE, 2 3 I. GOEBELSMUHLE, 237. GOES, 19. H. Zoutkcct. GOLDEN SPURS, battle of the, I 74. GORCUM CHEM, 88. II. des Pays Bas. GOSSELIES, 193, 244. GOUDA, 78. H. Zalm, in the mar-- ket—place. GOUVY, 2 37. H. Restaurant Bischof, a clean and homely rly. Inn. Goury to Arlen, 24L GRAMMONT, junct., 215, 216. [H. (E B. 1888.] GORIN- 01‘ Hague. GRAVELINES, I 73. GRETY, birthplace, 202. GROENANDAEL, 223. GROENLO, 73. GROESBEEK, stat., 97. GRONAU, 73. GRONINGEN, 84. II. Ze'vcn Provincicn; H. Doclcn; both in the Groote Markt. Restau- rant De Boer. Tramway from the stat. GROTIUS, escape prison, 88. GRUI’ONT, 225. H. .Massct-P/Lilippart. Guides in Belgium, IOI. from H HAARLEM, 4r. Hotels: *H. Fimclcler, dear ; H. Gouden Leeuw ; H. Leeuwerik, both good but commercial. H. van den Berg, near the Park. Tramway from the stat. through the town, 10 0. Steam tramway to Leyden. Cabs, 60 c. the drive; 1 fl. the hour. Haarlem to Alkmaar, 64. HAGUE, THE, 28. Hotels: *H. des Indes, Lange Vorhout, excellent in all respects. *H. Pau- Zez, noted for its good cookery. *H. Bellewe, near the Park and Eng. Ch. *0ude .Doelcn, well situated and comfortable. H. de l’Europe, 61, Lange Houtstraat. All these of the first class, with similar charges. R. 2 fl. ; D. at 5.30, 2 to 2% fl. Less expensive are H. Toclast, in the Green- markt; II. Twce Stee- den, in the Buitenhof; and H. Central (with Hague. Restaurant), in Lange Pooten. Pension : Hmm Pau- lez, 7, Molenstraat, good. Restaurant : Van dor Pg], 18, Plaats. Cafés: 0'. du Passage, in the arcade ; Zuid Hol- lands/L Kofi'yhuis, oppo- site the great church. Confectioners: Mon- clzen, N.E. corner, and. Sprcchcr, S.W. corner; both in the Plcin. Booksellers: Van Stoc/zum and Zoon, 36, Buitenhof; Nyhofl, 18, Nobelstraat. Prints and Engrav- ings : Goupil, 20, Plaats; Brouwer, 12, Noordeinde; Couve'e, 41, Lange Pooten. Photographs: Parson, 19, Plaats. C h e m i s t : Spuy Straat. Delft Ware at Rosen- berg’s, in the Pooten. Post Ofiice, behind the Groote Kerk. Telegraph Ofiice, near the Picture Gallery. Theatre, at the S.E. corner of the Lange Vor- hout. French operas 3 times a week, Dutch plays twice a week, from Sept. to May. Concerts in winter at the Gcbouw Kunsten en ’ctenschappen (close to the Rhine Stat), and in summer on Sunday after- noon at the Zoological the Mouton, Gardens. Adm. on Con- cert days, 1 fl.; other days, 50 c. Bazaar for Japanese curiosities and fancy articles: Boer and Sons, 82, Zee Straat. Cabs: To or from the Stat., 50 0.; heavy lug- gage, 10 c. each article. S . 258 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Raine. Drive of i hr., 50 c.; 1 hr., 1 fl. For more than 2 persons, or for a 2- horse carriage, half as much again. To Scheve- ningen, 1:} fl. Tramways along the principal streets, and from the Stat. to the hotels (10 0.). To Sche- veningen by the old road (preferable), 25 c.; by the new road, 20 c. Steam Tramway everyfi hr. from the Rhine Stat., 25 c. To Leyden, steam tramway in an hour (10 m.). British Minister: Hon. W. Stuart, West- einde; American Minis- ter: Hon. J. Bell. Chaplain to the British Legation: Rev.W. J amie- son. Physician: Dr.Vinth- huizen, Kasernestraat. HAINE, river, 214. Harm-1 Sr. PIERRE, junct., 223, 239. EAL, 155. H. Due de Brabant; Restaurant du Chanwau, opposite the ch.; both very poor. HALFWEG, stat., 47. HALLUIN, 246. HAMOIR, 229. H. de la Station. HAMONT, 245. HAN-SUR-LESSE, 224. H. Bellevue. HARDERWYK, 80. H. do la Paix. HARLINGEN, 83. Hotel: H. Hccrenlogc— ment. Steamer to Amsterdam :in 6 hrs., every week- : day. Htrltngen to Nieuwe- 301mm, 83. Heyst. HARMELEN, j unct., 78, 80. HASSELT, 209. H. Maud. HAsru‘IRE ,LAVAUX, 233. .H. Bullevue, near the ch.; H. de la Manse, at the stat. HAUTE Hut, 206. HAUTES mvrfimss, 217. If. St. Hubert. HAUTMONT, junct., 212. HAYE SAINTE, LA, 219. HAZEBROUCK, 176. H. dc Trois C/zcvaux. HEDEL, stat., 94. HEERENVEEN, 82. HEESWYK, 91. HEID DES GATTES, 228. HEILOO, stat., 67. HELDER, 69. H. Bellevuc, near the stat. ; H. Den Burg, near the harbour. HELLEVOETSLUIS, 26. HELMOND, 87. HENGELO, junct., 73. HERBESTHAL, 207. HERBEUMONT, 24.1. H. I'asseur, pension, 6 frs.; H. des Ardcnnes. HERENTHALS, junct., 189. 245. HERMALLE, 59, 198. HERRING fishery, Dutch, 26. HERSEAUX, junct., 173. HERSTAL, 95. HERTOGENBOSCH, 91. H. Lion d’Or; H. Mzison Vcrte. HERVE, 244. HEVERLE, 208. HEYST, I 36. Hotels: 011 the sea, Cursaal ; H.de la Plage ; Grand H. ; pension, 8 to 10 frs. H. du Phare; H. dc Flandrc; cheaper. Jemelle. In the Village, 11. Léo- pold 11., pension, 4 frs. HEYST - 0P ~DEN -BERG, 208. HILVERSUM, junct., 71, 73- HINDELOOPEN, 83. HIVES, 229. HOUFFALIZE, 241. *H. dos Pastas ; H. dos Ardennes; H. du Luxem- bourg. HOUGOMONT, Chateau of, 2 2 1. HOUYET, 232. In : H. dc la Lesse. HOYOUX, valley, 24.3. HUBERT, ST., 225. HUGOWAARD, stat., 69. HUIZEN, 71. HULST, 180. HUNNEBEDDEN, 85. HUNSE, river, 84. HUY, 197. II. *Az'glc X051“, 3; m. from the stat., on the opposite bank of the river. I IGEL, 227; column, 227. IHRHOVEN, stat, 86. IJ, river, 48, 63. IJSSEL, river, 77, 80, 81. IJSSELMONDE, Island of, 24. INGELMUNSTER, 175, I79, I85. Inns in Belgium, 101; in Holland, 4. ISEGHEM, I85. ITEGHEM, 208. IXELLES, 172. J JAMIO‘ULX, junct., 216. JEMAPPES, 210. JEMELLE, 224. H. de la Station; H. du. Luvcmbozfrg. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 259 J emeppe. JEMEPPE, 199, 224. J’ETTE, junct., I46, 176, 195. J ODOIGNE, 24o. JORDAENS, J., place. 191. JOURE, 82. JUMET, junct, 244. JUPILLE, 95. JURBISE, junct., j unct., I 9 3 2 burial- 210, 213. JUZAINE, 229. K KAMP, 69. KAMPEN, 81. H. dos Pays Bas; H. Dom van Ill-ulen,‘ both poor. KARTHAUS, junct., 227. KATWYK-ANN-ZEE, 4o. Bad/total; II. Zwann ; H. chedag; all on the sea. KAUTENBAGH, 237. KESTEREN, junct., 89. KEMPEN, junct., 97. KEMPIS, THOMAS A, birthplace, 97. KINDERDYK, 19L KNOKKE, 136. KRIMPEN, 191. KROMMENIE, stat., 67. KWADYK, stat, 71. L LA CAMBRE, abbey, 172. LA CLINGE, stat., 180. LAEKEN, I 72. H. Restaurants: Pu- rlllu/i dc la Heine, im- mediately beyond the Canal bridge ; (lrande Grille, on the rt. close to the ch.; Acacia, between the ch. and the Park. LA GLEIZE, 2 36. LA HULPE, 223. LA Lonvn‘mE, junct., 214. Lembecq-lez-Hal. LAMORTEAU, 225. LANAEKEN, 210. LANDEN, junct, 205. Landengto C’lney, 243. LANEFFE, 216, 239. LAON, 234. LA PINTE, junct., 175, 179. LA REID, stat., 234. LA ROCHE, 229. H. du Nord, excellent, pension 4 to 5 frs., good wine; H. dos Ardcnnes. Carriages for Viel Salm, poor. LA ROCHETTE, 238. H. Knaff - Rclcz'nger, pension 5 frs., trout daily ; good fishing with- in g; hr.’s walk. Avoid H. de la Paste. LATO'UR, Castle of, 243. LEAU, 240. Restaurant: Waters. L‘ECLUSE (see Sluz's). LEER, junct., 85. LEEUWARDEN, 82. II. Nleuwc Doelen; H. qupm ran Fries-land. Restaurant, Van den Wal. LE HEROU, 229. LEIDEN, 36. Inns: H. Lion d’Or; H. Lcrcdag; both very fair. Restaurant at H. Central, opposite the new brick and stone club- house. Restaurant at stat.; Zomcrzorg and Zonwrlust, adjoining each other, close by. Café Suz'sse; 0. Ncuf. Tramway from the stat. through the princi- pal streets, passing nearly all points of interest. Steam Tramway to Haar- lem and Katwyk. LEK, river, 94, 191. LEMBECQ-LEZ-HAL, 210, 2 39. Liége. LESSE, river, 224, 2 32 ; Perte de la, 224. _ LESSINES, junct, I77, 215. LEUZE, junct., 154, 179. LIBRAMONT, junct., 225, 241. LIGHTENVOORDE, stat., 7 3- LIGHTERVELDE, junct., 179, 184. \ LIEGE, 199. Hotels: *H. de Suede, expensive; *H. d’Anglc- tcrrc, moderate; H. de l’Europe, commercial; all close to the theatre. 2nd class : H. de France, Rue Cathédrale; H. Charle- magne, Place St. Lam- bert; H. Schiller, Place du Theatre. In the Parc de Cointe, outside the town, II. dos Balms, a well-appointed health resort, with resident doctor and pleasant gar— den. At the Guillemins Stat, H. de l’UniUers, tolerable. Restaurants: Barney, Rue des Dominicains; Café Ve'm'ticn; H. Dcux Fontaines; H. Molzrcn, close to the Cathedral (German); Grctry, close to the Theatre. Baths in the Parc de Cointe (see above). Balms St. Illichel. Banker: .41. Rome- dcnne, 3, Rue de l’Har- monie. Booksellers : E. Gnuse’, 51, Rue l’ont d’Ile; De- socr, 7, Place St. Lam- bert; Grahay, 9, Rue de l’Université. Cabs: From the Stat., or for a short drive, 1 fr. ; 2 horses, 1 fr. 50 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 6.; s 2 260 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Lierneux. 2 horses, 2 fr. 50 c. Open carriages a little dearer. Tramway through the principal streets. Steam Tramway to Seraing. Steamers every § hr. to Seraing. Post and Telegraph Oflice: Rue de l’Uni— versite'. U.S.A. Consul: Mr. Robertson. Liege to Luxemburg, 234. Lz‘e‘ge to Marloz'e, 227. Liege to Verviers, 244. LIERNEUX, 2 3 7. LIERRE, junct., 189, 207, 245. LIERS, junct., 95. LIGNY, 205, 208. LILLE, 149. qufet at the stat., with bedrooms. Hotels: H. de l’Europe, Rue Basse; 11. do France, Rue Esquer- moise; H. de Flandre, near the stat. Restaurant : Grand Cafe, Rue de la Gare. Numerous C’afe’s. Cabs: 1 fr. 75 c. the drive; 2 frs. an hour. Post Office: Boulevard de la Liberté. . English Church: be- hind the Boulevard de la Liberté, near the Halles Centrales. LINGE, river, 94.. LINNEUS, his residence in Holland, 37. LIPPE, river, 96. LISSEWEGHE, 136. LOBBES,j11nct., 196, 239. Lomrn, 77. LODELINSART, 2097 243- LOEVESTEIN, castle, 88. L 0 G N E, valley, 229; castle, 229. junct., Maestricht. LOKEREN, 189. H. du Mroir, Lin the Grande Place. LOMFRET, 2 34. LOMME, river, 224. LONDERZEEL, junct.,187, 215. LONGLIER, 225. LONDON to Antwerp, 109. London to Brussels, 126, 147. London to Rotterdam by Flushing, I6. London to Rotterdam by Harwich or the Thames, 25. LOOCERISTY, 189. LOUVAIN, 185. H dc Suede, in the Place du l’euple. Inns at the stat, bad and dear. Cabs: 1 fr. the course. Louvain to Air la Cha- pelle, 96. Louvaz’n to Ghent, 185. LUSTIN, 231. LUTTRE, junct., 193, 216, 244. LUXEMBURG, 226. H. de l’Europe, turn- ing out of the Grande Rue to the N.; H. Bras- seur, Rue Aldringer, fur- ther W. Restaurant Faber. Post and Telegraph: Rue du Genie, W. of the Place d’Armes. LYS, river, 176, 246. M MAAS, river, 20, 25, 91. MAASEYCK, 9 3, 210. MAASTRIGHT, 91. II. du Levrz‘er (Hasen- wind), good; H. Ali/[e Nair (Zwarte Arend), op- posite. Omnibus, 20 0.; cab, 50 c. Guides to the Caverns; make a bar- gain. Membre. Maastn‘cht to Arnhem, 9 1. Maastricht toLiége, 95. MALDEGEM, 196. MALINES, 181. Inns: Grando Cicogne _(chez JIat/zot), 88, Rue N. Dame, nearest the stat.; Budd, at the W. end of the 03th.; Befi'er, E. of the Grande Place. Rly. Bufiet. MALMEDY, 237. H. Choral Blane. MALPLAQUET, battle of, 212. MAMER, river, 2 38. MANAGE, junct.,214, 216. JIamzers, &c., Dutch, 12. MARBEHAN, 225. H. Cornet. MARCHE, 229. H. de la Clue/w, in the town; 11. de la Station. MARCHE LES DAMES, 19 . MARCEIENNE-AU- PONT, 193. MARGOURT, stat, 229. MARIAKERKE, 128. H. Zwann. MARIENBURG, 2 17. MARIENDAAL, 77. MARIEMONT, 22 3. MARIENTEAL, Abbey of, 2 3 8. MARKEN, Island of, 64. MARLOIE, junct., 224, 2 30. MARTIN-RIVE, 228. MAUBEUGE, junct., 196, 212. MECHLIN (see leines). MEERSSEN, 96. MEHAIGNE, river, 19 7, 240; valley, 243. MELLE, junct., 146, 2-16. MELREUX, junct., 229. MEMBRE, 241. In: Florent. junct., INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 261 Memling. MEMLING, HANS, statue of, at Bruges, I 3 2. MENIN, junct, 176. Menin to St. Amand, 246. MEPPEL, 82. H. Heerenlogement. MEPPEN, 85. MERBES ST. junct., 223, 239. MERSCH, 238. H. Stefien, in the town; II. Bramlenburger, at the stat. MERTERT, 227. METTET, 193. METTRAY, 72. MEUSE, river, 196, 224, 230; valley, 195. MIDDELBURG, 18. II. NiezuL-e Doelen, in the market-place; H. Abdy, in Court-yard of Benedictine Monastery. Several Cafe's. Steamers frequently along Canal to Flushing, and Tram- way every hour. Car- riage to Veere and back, 3 fl. Protestant Service on alternate Sundays at 10 A.M., in the Noord- straat. MIDDELKERKE, 128. H. des Bains. MIRVART, old castle, 225. MODAVE, 243. MOERBEKE, junct., 195. MOHA, 243. MOINIL, chateau, 197. MOLHAIN, 217. MOLL, 240, 245. MOMIGNIES, 234. MONCEAU, Chateau de, 227. MONCORNET, 2 1 7. Money in Belgium, 99; in Holland, I. MONNIKENDAM, 64. MONT ST. GUIBERT, 223. MONT JARDIN, chateau, 228. MARIE, ruins of, Nicholas, St. MONT s'r. JEAN, 218. MONTAIGLE, Castle of, 231. MONTAIGU, mitage, 229. MONTFORT, 228. MONTHERME, 217. H. du Comnwrcc. MONS, 212. H. Couronne, in the market-place, fair; St. Jean, and Monarque, both together, facing the stat. Several Cafes in the mar- ket-place. Illons to Antwerp, 215. Mons to Otte'gnics, 214. MOOK, stat., 93. MOUSGRON, junct., 173. MUIDEN, 6 3. Mi‘manN - Gunmen, junct., 246. MUNSTER BILSEN, 210. ZlIusie in Holland, 14. 209 ; Her- N NAARDEN, 71. NAMncHE, 197. NAMUR, 194. *H. Harscamp, Marché aux Arbres, good and reasonable ; H. de la Cou- ronne, at the stat. Good Buffet. Namur to Givet, 2 30. Namur to Paris, 23 3. Namur to Tirlemont, 24o. NASSOGNE, 225. NEEDE, 7;. NEERLINTER, 24o. NEERPELT, junct., 95, junct., 245. NEERWINDEN, 205. NETHE, river, 190. A NEUFCHATEAU, 225. H. des Postes. NEUSS, 97, 246. NEWILLE, chateau, 198. NICHOLAS, 51., junct., 180. Orchies. NIEUPORT (BAINS), 179. H. de la Digue; H. des Bains. NIEUPORT (VILLE), 1 79. 11. de Z’Espe'rance. NIEUWE DIEP, 7o. NIEUWERSLUIS, 74. NIEUWESCEANS, 86. NIMY, 214. NINOVE, 215. H. de l’EtoiIe. NIVELLES, 192. H. du Mouton Blane. NONCEVEUX, 2 28. NORDERWYCK, 245. NOVILLE-TAVIERS, junct., 24o. NUTONS, 230, 238. NYMEGEN, 89. Hotels : *H. Place Royale, near the Valkhof gardens ; Hof van Bra- bant, in the Korenmarkt ; H. Ariens, near the river, commercial. Outside the town (nearly 4 112.), *.H. Berg en Dal, a favourite summer pension and restaurant, with fine View. Cafes: Hamerslag, in the market-place ; Suisse, Burgstraat. Omnibus from the stat. to Berg en Dal. Steam- ers daily to Arnhem and Rotterdam. 0 OBERHAUSEN, junct., 96. OIGNIES, abbey, 193. OLDENBURG, junct., 85. OLDENZAAL, stat., 73. OOSTERBEEK, 77. OOSTMALLE, 190. OOSTROOSEBEKE, I75. OPWYCK, junct., 195, 215. ORCEIES, junct., 246. 262 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Organs. Organs in Holland, I4. 085 or 08011, 91. ORVAL, 242. Small Inn at the ruins. OSTEND, I26. . Hotels: Those of the 1st class are extrava- gantly dear in the season (15 July to 15 Sept.). No less than 25 frs. has sometimes been demanded for a room on the 3rd floor. 011 the Sea, with fine View : H. Continental, H. de l’Oce'an, H. de la Plage, H. Beaurivage, H. Knrsaal ct Beausite, H. Royal Beige, H. Welling- ton, H. du Littoral. Be- hind the royal villa, H. (in Chdlct Royal. Near the port, H. du th'c. Behind the Digue, H. de .Prusse. In the town: [1. Mann, 19, Rue Louise; *H. de Flandrc, *H. Fon- taz’nc, *H. Martian, H. d’Allcmagne, H. Grand C'afe', .H. jlfarion; all of the first class. Somewhat cheapei',,H. dn Nord, 6, Rue de l’Eglise; H. Frank, H. de Viennc, H. de Z’Em- pereur, *H. du Lion d’0r, *H. de Gand ct d’Albion, Marché aux Herbes, pen- sion, 10 frs.; H. do l’Europe, H. de la Zlfarino, Rue Chapelle; opposite, H St. Denis or Cour d’Anglctcrrc; H. dos Na- tions. Unpretending. H. de Z’Agncau, close to the parish ch.; Ship Hotel, near the steamboat rly. stat. Close to the central stat., H. Couromzc, H. Barcelona. Lodgings are nume- rous, but expensive. Sin- gle room, 4 to 5 frs. Families engaging a suite of apartments should Ostend. come to a distinct under- standing about items, and insist upon a written contract. Restaurants attached to most of the hotels on the Digue, expensive and indifferent. In the town: *Fréres Prorencanr (Mor- ainville), high charges. Cafe and Confectioner: *Noppenvy, Rue Longue (corner of Rue de Flan- dre). A'érated waters should be purchased here, as the Ostend drinking- water is bad. Wine : ilfichens - l'er- lzoest, 15, Rue de Flandre. Warm Salt -Water Baths: '36, Rue St. Sé- bastion; 15 and 23, Rue de l’Eglise. Single bath, 2 to 3 11‘s.; a dozen, 20 to 30 frs. Cabs : I fr. the course: at night, 1 fr. 50 c. First hour, 1 fr. 50 c. ; second, 1 fr. Donkeys, 1 fr. an hour; ponies, 2 frs. Sailing Boats (2 men), 5 frs. an hour. A large party should make a bargain. Circulating Libraries: Godzifurncau and Asseloos, both in the Rue Longue. Newspapers, ‘25, Rue Cha- pelle. Stationer: Dave- luy, 105, Rue Chapelle, close to the stat. Post and Telegraph Office : 10, Rue des Smurs Blanchos, behind the H. de Ville. British Vice Consul: F. G. Thellnsson, lflsq., Marché aux Herbes. Bankers : Duclos, Rue ran Iseghem; Adolphe Bach, 9, Rue Capucins (German Consul). English Church at the E. end of the Rue Longue, Pepinster. near the port. Sunday Services at 11, 3, and 7. Chaplain, Rev. Over- street Fletcher. Physician: Dr. Schramme, Rue des Capacins, speaks English. Chemist, Ramlot, 16, Grande Place. Dentist : Dr. Tolle- mache Bull, of Brussels, sometimes visits Ostend in the season. Steamers : to Dover, 3 times daily, leaving Ostend at 6 A.M., 10.15 A.M., and 8.20 P.M.; reaching Ostend at 2 A.M., 3.30 P.M., and 7 m1. Fare, 73. 6d. or 53. 7d.; return (15 days), 113. 10d. or 93. Te London direct on Tues. and Fri.. returning on Sun. and Wed. Fare, 15.5. or 103.; return (‘3 months), 233. or 153. 6d. Ustcnd to Lille, 183. OTTIGNIES, junct, 214, 333- 243- OU'DENARDE, 175. H. Pommc d’Or, oppo- site the Town Hall. OUDENBURG, 128. OUDEWATER, 78. OUR, valley, 238. OURTHE, river, 206, 229; valley, 224, 227. P PADDENHOEK, 6;. Painting, Dutch School of, II. Painting, Schools of, in iclgium, 105. PANNERDEN, 77. PARIS to Brussels, ZIZ. PARIS to Liégc, 196. Passports, 99. PATURAGES, 210. Peat, 9. PEPINSTER, 206. Rly. qufet. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 263 Perch. PEROK, 191. PETEGHEM, 174. PETER THE GREAT at Zaandam, 66. PETERSBURG HILL, near Maastricht, 92. PICTURE GALLERIES :——- Amsterdam, 54, 59 ; Ant- werp, 1 17 ; Bruges, 133 ; Brussels, 16;, 166; Ghent, I40 ; Haarlem, 43; The Hague, 30, 33; Lille, 15o; iotterdam, 22. PIERRE LEZ CALAIS, $13., 148. PIETON, (lunch, 223. PLASCHENDAELE, stat, 1 28. PLINY, fountain of, 241. POILVACHE, Castle of, 2 3 1 . POIX, 225. 1!. Panda ; Voyageurs. Folders, 9. POPERINGHE, I76. Post in Belgium, 100. POULSEUR, 228. PROFONDEVILLE, marble quarries, 231. PUERS, junct., 181, 188. PURMEREND, 71. 11. Hecrcn Logcnwnt. II. des Q QUAREGNON, junct., 211, 212. QUATRE BRAS, 214. QUEENBOROUGH to Flushing daily in 7% hrs., at 8.45 11.31. and 10.10 1’.l\1.. 16, 109. QUEVY, 21 2. QUIEVRAIN, junct., 2 1 1. R RAILROADS, in Belgium, 100; in Holland, 2. RAMILIES, junct., 205, 240. Roselaere. RANSART, junct., 209. REBECQ, 210. REGOGNE, 225. In: Olivier. REMBRANDT, 31, 56, 119. REMOUCHAMPS, 228. H. (163 Etmngcrs; H. do la Grotto. RENAIX, junct., 173, I76, 1 77, 179. RENDEUX—HAUT, 229. RESSEN-BEMMEL, 9 3. REYNOLDS, Sir Joshua, 31, 113—121, 138, 181. RHEDEROORD, 81. H. Engel. RHEINE, 85. H. Sclmlze; Buffet at stat. RHENEN, 77, 89. RHINE, in Holland, 25; pictures, at liatwijk, 36 ; at Rhenen, 89. RIJMENANT, 191. RILLAND-BATH, Stat, 19. RIVAGE, junct., 228. RIXENSART, 223.- ROANNAY, valley, 236. Room: A BAYARD, 2 32. ROCHE AUX CHAUVES, 23 1. ROCHE h FRENE, 229. ROCHEFORT, 224. [L Biron ; H. de 1’ y‘toz'lc. Horses and car- riages at both. Rocoun, 95. ROER, river, 246. ROERMOND, 93. H. Munster ; II. Lion (Z’Or. ROGNON, 210, 216. ROISIN, 210. ROOSENDAAL, 19. II. Pays Bas, near stat. ; Zwann, in market- place. ROSELAERE (see Rou- lers). Rotterdam. ROTTERDAM, 20. Hotels: New Bath 11., on the Quay (E. 5). R.. 2 fl. ; D., 23,11. Victoria, in theWillemsplein (E. 3); both first class and ex- pensive. * Weimcr (D. 5), on the Oude Haven. Hol- lande, 211, Hoogstraat (D. 5): R. and B., 2:}; 11.; D., with wine, 2 fl. Pays Bas, Korte Hoogstraat (C. 4), with Restaurant in the adjoining Passage; Europe (D. 5), near the Post Oflice. Restaurants : Grand Cafe, in the Arcade or Passage (C. 4), also a. Hotel; Zuid Hollands}: Ji'ofi‘eclmis, Korte Hoog- straat; Fritschy, near the Lees Kabinet (D. 5). At the Clubs (Amicitia, Doelen, Lees liabinet) English and Continental newspapers are taken in; a stranger may be intro- duced by a member. Cabs: The course, 60 c.; at night, 90 c. By the hour, 1 (l. 20 c. ; at night, 1 ii. 50 c. Physician: Dr. W. Nolen, 12, Leuvehaven. Chemist: Lagaay, 32, Westerstraat, near the pier of the Harwich steamers ; Wigman, 4, Mosseltrap, near Hotel Weimer. Grocer (for Curacoa, &c.) : Vrugtnmn, 20, Passage. Post and Telegraph (D. 4—, 5): Branch ollice, adjoining the old Yacht Club (F. 2). Money Changer: Van Dz’cst, 101, Bompjes (E. 4). Booksellers : Eeltjes, 94, Oppert; Kramcrs, near the Central Stat.; 264 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Rotterdam. Van Hengel, 385, Hoog- straat. Theatres: Groote Schouwbm'g (C. 4), a handsome building of brick and stone, with three external safety galleries ; Zomer-The- ater, in the Kruis Kade (B. 4). British Consulate: 22, Boompjies. U n i t e 6. States: 5, W'esterstraat. English Church: E. end of the Haringvliet (service twice on Sunday), erected in 1706 by sub- scriptions from English residents of 80001., to which Queen Anne con- tributed 5001. and the Duke of Marlborough 100]. It was used by Napoleon as a stable for his horses. Scotch Pres- byterian. Church on the Schottsche Dijk Vaste- land, erected by the Scotch residents in the 17th cent. (service at 10.30 and 6.30). Railways: 3. Holland- schc Spoorwcg, 2 stats., at the N. end of the town (A. 4), and at the Exchange (D. 5), to the Hague, Haarlem, Amster- dam, &c.—b. Rz'jn Spoor- iceg Stat., N.E., to Gouda, Utrecht, and Germany or Amsterdam. Station on the Maas, above the bridges (E. 6). Steamboats daily to Ni‘jmegen in 8—10 hrs.; to Moerdijk in 2 hrs.; to Middelburg, in Zeeland, 4 times a week in 7 hrs. at 9 AM. ; to Amsterdam in 10 hrs., daily except Sunday; nearly every hour to Dort in 1.1,- hr.; to Gouda and back daily; weekly to Havre and 8t. Omer. Dunkirk; to Harwich daily, except Sunday ; to London, Sunday, Tues., and Saturday; to Ant- werp, Tues., Th., Sat., in 9 hrs.; to Bois-le-Duc (Hertogenbosch) daily, in 8 hrs. ; to Hull, 4 times a week, in 17 hrs.; to Grimsby every Tuesday and Saturday; to New- castle-on—Tyne, Liver- pool, and Leith, every Saturday; to Zierikzee, Tues., Th., Sat. ; to Edin- burgh, Tues., Friday. Rotterdam to Amster- dam, the Hague, (in, 26. Betta-dam to Antwerp by water, 191. Rotterdam to Vcnlo, 86. ROUBAIX, 246. II. Fcrraz'llc. ROULERS, 184. H. Duo dc Bl‘abant. ROUX, junct., 193. ROZENDAAL, park, 81. RUBENS, pictures, 31, 112, 119, 136, 165. RUBENS, his residence at Steen, 190. RUMBEKE, 185. RUMES, 154. RUPEL, river, 188. RUURLO, junct., 73. RUYSBROECK, 155. RYSWYK, 26. S SAARDAM (see Zaandam), 67. ST. atom, 241. In; Pid)‘al‘t-Pcrlot. ST. HUBERT, 22 . H. dc Lurcmbourg ; *H. Chcmz‘n dc Fer. ST. NICOLAS, 189. H. Quatre Sccaur, in the market-place. ST. OMER, 148. H. de la Porto d’Or. Scheveningen. 8T. TROND, 240. H. du Commerce. SALZBERGEN, junct., 73, 85. SAMBRE, river, 193, 224. SAMRE, 229. SAMSON, ruined castle, 197. SAS VAN GENT, 130. SAUR, river, 227. SAVENTHEM, 204. SCHAERBEEK, stat., 1 9 1. Here passengers from Antwerp to London direct change carriages, and join the Calais train at Brussels (Stat. du Nord). SCHAGEN, 69. SCHELDE, river, 187, 188. SCHELLEBELLE, 146,188. SGHELLINGWOUDE, 6’. SCHENKENSCHANZ, 7‘6. SCHERMEER HOORN, 69. SCHEVENINGEN, 35. Hotels : *II. d'Urangc, 180 beds; 11. dus Bains; both expensive; R. 2% to 3 fl., D. 2% fl. *H. dds Galleries, R. 1% fl., D. 2 fl., pension 4 fl. H. Garni, similar prices. H. Ranch and H. Zcerust, 2nd class; all these on or close to‘ the sea. Further back, H. Continental. Half-way to the Hague, H. do la Promenade, good restau- rant; nearer the Hague, on the edge of the wood, I]. Bcausfiour. Pensions in the village, numerous. Sea. bathing exorbi- tant, 60 c. to 80 0. each time; for the season, 71’: fl., with an extra payment of 10 0. each time. Visitor’s Tax: 15 f]. the season, giving admis- sion to ordinary concerts and balls at the public rooms; special entertain- ments charged half price. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 265 Schie. Concerts, &c., at the Sainpost, on the Dunes. Post Office, 294, Keizer- straat; branch office at the Cursaal. SCHIE, river, 26. SGHIEDAM, 26. SGH'ONFELS, 2 38. SCHOOTEN, fort of, 125. SCHUTBERG, ruins of, 2 3 7. SOLAIGNEAUX, stat... 1 9 7. SCLAYN, 197. SEDOZ, 228. [Inns: C/zaudiérc; dcs Etramycrs. SEILLES, 197, 240. SELZAETE, junct., 180, I 6. SENEFFE, 214. SENNE, river, 15 5, 191. SERAING, 199. SIGHEM, 209. SIMPELVELD, 96. Skeleton Tours in the Ar- dennes, 108. SLIE'DREGHT, 88. suns (Fr. L’ECLUSE), I 36. H. dc Koornbcurs. SNEEK, stat, 83. SOESTDYK, 72. SOIGNIES, junct., 213. sorssoxs, 234. SOMBREFFE, 205. SOMERGEM, 146. SOTTIGHEM, I75, 216. SOUGNE, 228. SPA, 2 ;4. Hotels (closed in “iin- ter): H. d’Orangc, Rue Royale (80 rooms). H. dc Flandrc, Rue d’Amont- ville (180 rooms). H. Britanm'qm’, good table- d’héte. II. dc York, healthy situation, fre- quented by English. II. Bellcmc ; H. dc I’L'urope; H. de l’Aremw ct du JlIz'di, near Railway; H. dc la Paste, all good. 210, Steenhufi‘el. H. du Nord, small, open all the year. Numerous furnished apartments (reduced prices in win- ter). Restaurants: II. de Lacken; H. dos Etran- gcrs; H. du Nord; II. dos Bains. Boarding House: Chateau Belvédére. Post Office: In Rue Neuve. English Church Ser- vice: Sunday, 8.30 and 11.30 A.M., and 7.30 P.M. Daily, 8.30 A.M., by a resident chaplain, S.P.G., in the Gothic church of St. Peter and St. Paul on the Boulevard des Anglais; founded in 1872; the cost was 7000]., defrayed by pri— vate subscription with the aid of the Belgian Government. In con- nection with the English Church already existing, 3. new Memorial Church is about to be built at a cost of 12,000l. English Physician: Dr. W. Thompson, 6, Rue the Neuvc. Belgian: Dr. Poskin, Dr. de Dam- seaux. Baths: 1 fr. 80 c.; 12 baths, 18 frs. Entrance to the Park, 2 frs. a. day, giving admission to 2 concerts. Pavilion, for non- players, 50 c. SPAARNE, river, 47, SPY, 198. STATTE, stat., 243. STAVELOT, 2 36. H. d’Orange. STAVOREN, 8 3. STEEG, DE, stat., 81. STEEN, Chateau of, 190. STEENHUFFEL, 215. Tilly. STEENKIRKE, 210. STEENWIJK, 82. STOUMONT, 228. H. Val dc l’Ambléve. SURE, river, 2 38. SUSTEREN, stat., 9 3. SY, 229. 'I' TAMINES, junct., 193, 205. TAMISE, 181. Telegraph in Belgium, 100. TENIERS, statue of, at Antwerp, l 23. TENIERS, the Younger, at Dry Toren, 191. TER ELS'I', 190. TER GOES (see Goes). TERGNIER, junct., 2I2. TERMONDE, I87. , Inns: Plat d’Etaz'n; Aigle. TERNEUZEN, 180. I n n : A'cdcrlandsch Logcmcnt. TERVUEREN, chateau, 22 3. TEXEL, Island of, 70. THEUX, 2 34. THIBAUT, St., hill of, 229. THIELT, junct., 179. T H I E N E N (see Tirle- mont). THOLEN, 192. THOUROUT, 184. Inns: Duo do Brabant ; Flundrc; both at stat. THUILLIES, junct., 239. THUIN, 196, 239. TIEL, 89. H. Meyer. TILBURG, 87. II. Goudcn Zwaan. TILFF, 227, H. dos Etrangers; dc l’Ann’raute’. TILLEUR, I99. TILLY, stat, 208. H. 266 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Tirlemont. TIRLEMONT, 205. H. Nouvcau Maude, near the stat.; H. dc Flandrc, in the market- place. Tirlemont to Tong/res, 24o. TONGERLOO, 245. TONGRES, 240. II. du Paon,‘ good; II. du Casquc. Tomcomo, 176. TOURNAI, 151. Inns: H. dc la Petite N’f, corner of Rue du Cygne, very fair; H. de Z’Impfiratricc, naer the Grande Place ; H. du Com— merce, small, Opposite the Cathedral. Restaurants: I'm-mic Alsacz’cnnc, 20, Grande Place (B. side); (‘afu’ Ve‘nitz'cn, near the hand- some rly. stat. ; H. llIcmz, close by ; H. Bellcvue, on the river. Post Oflice, in the Rue de Courtrai. Carpets: Du Morte‘cr, Rue de Courtrai. New Museum shortly to be opened on the S. side of the Grande Place. Tournai to G/zcnt, I73. Tours in Belgium, 107. TRAPPE, LA, monastery, 19o. TRAPPISTS, abbey of, 239. Travelling in Holland, 2. Tree/csc/zuitcn in Holland, 3-\ TREVES, 2:7. II.J[(u‘so)L Row/c; 11. (Id Trércs; II. Stadt Tc— m’dz'g, cheap and good. TROIS PONTS, 2; . H. dos Ardemws, homely. TROIS VIERGES, 237. TROMP, ADM, birthplace, 25. i Utrecht. TROOZ, stat, 206; castle, 206. T-SGHOUW, 6 3. TUBIZE, junct., 210, 244. TURCOING, junct., 246. TURNHOUT, 19o. TWICKEL, Chateau of, 7 3. U UITGEEST, junct., 65, 67. URSULA, ST., legend of, 1 3 1. UTRECHT, 74. Hotels: II. dos Pays Bas, the best, but apt to overcharge; *H. Owlc Jx'astccl ran Antzmpcn, commercial, good food, reasonable; 11. do l’l-Iu— rope, and If. Bullerlw, in the Vredenburg, nearest the Rhine Stat. Restaurants: II. dc [a Station, opposite the Rhine Stat; several in the Oude Gracht. Cafe : Han/[seize Ir’ofi‘ec hue’s, in the Vredenburg. Confectioner: Hout- man, 67, Oudkerkhof. Cab from the stat., 60 c. Tramway to Zeist every % hr., fare 35 C. Books and Photo- graphs: Lrnf;, 81, Oud— kerkhof; Clirann’ilz‘, 47 in the same street. Post Office E. of the Cathedral. Telegraph Office in the l‘aushuizen, Nieuwe Gracht. English Ch. Service at 6 1km. on Sunday, in Marnix Hall. Utrecht to 1Com pm, 80. Ufl‘c’cllt to Lc’lidt’li, 80. Utrecht to Liege, 94. Vieux Campinaire. 'V VAL ST. LAMBERT, I99. VALBURG, junct., 89. VALENCIENNES, 211. H. du Cumnwrce, good. VALKENBERG, ()6. VALKENSWAARD, 94. VALKHOF, castle of, 90. VANDYCK, pictures, 30, 54, 120; at Saventhem, 204. VAN EYCK, birthplace, 93 ; burial-place, 133. VAULX, 154. VECHT, river, 63, 74. VEENENDAAL, 77. VEENHUIZEN, 85. VEENWOODEN, stat, 84. VEERE, 18. VEGHEL, 91', 96. VELP, 81. VELSEN, junct., 64. VELUWE, district of, 72. VENLO, 87. 11. Zutynshoofd; Hung/ens. VERTRYGK, 205. VERVIERS, 206. Inns at the stat., If. du C/zemin de Fer, H. d’Allcmagnc; in the town, H. dos Pays Bus,- none recommended. VESDRE. valley, :06. VIANDEN, 23 . If. die Lu.rvmlmzu-g. VIANEN, 94. VIGHTELSTOCH, cavern, 2‘8. VIELSALM, 23 7. ,II. Bel/cute, near the ch., facing a wall; very fair. VIERVES. :17. VIEUK—DIEU, junct., 188 II. 190. VIEUX (Ln) CAMPIN- AIRE, junct., 209. lr’igilantes in Belgium, - 101. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 267 Villars. VILLARS, 232. VILLERS, abbey, 208. VILLERS LA VILLE, 208. H. Dmnont, good, close to the ruins. VILVORDE, 181, 191. VINK, 36. VIRELLES,Etang de, 2 34. VIREUX, 2 I 7. H. du Chemin de Fer. VIRON, 21 7. VIRTON, 225. H. Choral Blane, good; H. Croia: d’Or. Vlsfi, 9;. 11. do Brabant. VLARDINGEN, 26. VLISSINGEN (see Flush- 2.7157), 95- VLODROP, 246. VOGELENZANG, 37. VOLLENDE, 64. VOORBURG, 36. VOORDEN, canal, 26. VREESWYK, 94. VRESSE, 241. H. Grand jean. W WAAL, river, 77, 94. WAALWYK, 87. WAEREGHEM, junct, I 74. WAESLAND, The, 189. WAGENINGEN, 77. WAHA, 230. WALCHEREN, 16. WALCOURT, junct., 216. WALZIN, Chiteau de, 2 3 2. WAMME, river, 224. WANDRE, stat, 9 5. WAREMME, 205. WARMOND, 37. WARQUINIES, 212. Wyhe. WASSERBILLIG, junct., 227. WATERINGEN, 3 5. WATERLOO, 2i7. H. du Illuséc, kept by a niece of Serg.-Major Cotton. Omn. to Braine l’Alleud Stat., and back, 1 fr. 50 c. WAULSORT, 233. H. Martinot, pension, 5 frs. WAVRE, 208, 249; river, 225. WAYAI, valley of, 2 34. WEESP, 63, 71. WELLIN, 225. WERWICQ, I76. WESEL, junct., 96. WESTCAPELLE, dyke of, 16. Wizvn—CELLES, castle, 232. WIJK by Duurstede, 89. WILHEMS and FRIED- RIKS-OORD, 82. WILLEBROECK, junct., 181, 215. WILTZ, 23 7. H. dos Ardcnncs, good ; H. dc la Gare. WILTZ, river, 237. WILWERWILST, 2 3 7. WINDMILLS in Holland, 20, 66. WINSCHOTEN, 85. II. ll'z‘ssv/nann. WINTERSWYK, 73. 80. WITT, DE, birthplace, 20; death, 29. WOERDEN, junct., 78, 8o. WOLZ, river, 237. junct., WONDELGEM, junct., I96. WONDRICHEM 01' WOR- GUM, 8. WORTEL, 190. WYCHMAEL-BEVERLOO, 95- WYI-IE, 82. II. Brabantsc/w Wagon. Zandvoort. WYK-AAN—ZEE, 65. Vereem'gte Hotels, pen- sion, 4},- fl.; baths, 50 c. WYLRE, stat, 96. WYNENDAELE, 183. X XANTEN, 96. Y YMUIDEN, 64. H. Nonmwr Eon. YPRES, 183. *H. Téte d’Or, in the Rue de Lille, which rpns S. from the belfry; Epe'e Royalc, and Chatellcnic, both in the Grande Place, good early dinner, 2 frs. YSSEL, river, 8o. YSSELMONDE, 20. YVOIR, 2 3 I. H. dcs Touristcs; H. du Nord. Z ZAANDAM, 66. Café Restaurant Suisse, at the harbour. ZALTBOMMEL (see Bom- mcl). ’ ZANDPOORT, 64. H. Dm'nlust. ZANDVOORT, 47. Hotels: H. Kurzaal, near the stat; II. de Z’Occ’an; both on the sea, high prices. Further back, 11. Victoria. Near the village, with sea- views, H. Kaufmann, H. Ji‘cl'védérc. L 0d g i n g s easily obtained. Bathing Machine, 50 c. ; 12 times, 5 fl_. Riding Horses, 1 fl. an hour. 268 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Zevenaar. Zutphen. Zwyndrecht. Sailing-boat, 1 fl. an ZIJP, 69, 192. ZUYLEN, castle, 74. hour. ZORGVLIET, 35. ZWALUWE,junct., 19, 86. ZEVENAAR,junct., 78,97. ZUIDBROEK, 85. Zevenaar to Wintcrswyk, ZUIDER ZEE, 63, 81, 83. ZWOLLE, 80- 80. Hecrcnlogcmcnt, in the ZEIST, 76. ZUTPIIEN, 72. market-place, good and *H. K05 zcrs/croon, mode- reasonable. ZIERIKZEE, 19 2. rate; 11. Ilollandschc ZWYNDREGET, 188. H. van Oppcn. Tum. ‘ 1020303: PRIME BY WILL“ CLOWES AND SONS, UMITKD, STANFORD STREET AND CHARISG CROSS. 4 52 51 I for Murray's Handbook._ English Miles I . _J 10 20 30 4o '50 133“an aan Zee V a? - I J \ I .' Ens “lei I w waives o 4‘, III. . . ; T ‘ ' . ' (g Schevenmge. 0 fi- en u— ’ I I " .. . \ :' ' s e VEN z, 0.0 N {4 Vreden/ . eII 0 (1 RM" " x x I Q‘K 1110 ~. 52 s 7: . ‘ maid . L ‘0 ,. . \uholuf ‘ 5 ‘1" I ° \_\ '". .°'.~ r' b is I ,_\ mmgmc‘h on ‘I I. K: O ' . 4 I; (Slaves / 0-H. - ' _ \ V“ I . ' TOGENBOSCH 1(1qu ' ‘ ch ' v W115” (B015 1e Dun) o @402 Wese a ‘34 .» 7; Xmau Y" ..‘ / I‘ " 'I elders . . I 1;.» ’ I - finely? IIIthfi-lsnggé‘ I '.—- , ,' 1/17”; a 7:34 ' / ‘s )Ill‘D Hum“. _ “611*?” Ma “1491 e V '3. H .w W” Kg”: 3 \ v 7 I Blanlafilga' ‘ \" {HEEL \ my UQSEL wp . . “I . qT'out m 9 8" (32 3+}, .e .311 m . ,1 . I ~. t ”n _ _# _, BergueIk » s ' £an e? 0 £9 ' , 8'” ruééeF. 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AM .a .. a ._u~<.»:,,_.r...=, ‘ :‘r~¢= 1—. ._ A ;,. .me - A.» I ‘ . «Yunnfifiik fisvrmif. asficfiaismimafl I MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 1901-1902, CONTAINING USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS, RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES, HOTELS, AND MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS. MURRAY’ S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. ' May, GOMPAGNIEDESMESSAGERIES MARITIMES FRENCH POSTAL STEAMERS. DEPARTERES FROM MLRSEILLES. ». INDIA. CHINA. JAPAN. MAIN LINES.| BOMBAY Direct Every 28 days 1 Port Said, Suez, Aden, Bombay, Colombo, Singapore, Sa'igon, Hong A i Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe, Every 28 days 1, Yokohama E P01t Sa'id, Suez, Djibouti, Colombo, ‘ ' Singapore, Saigon, Hong K0110, , B Shanghai, N11g11saki,'1{obe', Yokg- ‘Ewry 28 days hama-D. . ... 3 i1 golombotofoxfidifherry,Ma1‘1ras,C alcutta Every 23 days :ungapore o a ‘wn ... Em Mail i 1 Singapore to Samarang Ever; 23 (1an BRANCH LINES- i i Saigon to Tonquin Ports Every Week . i Saigon to Singapore Every Mail 1 Nagasaki to Chefoo ... 1 Every Mail MAIN LINE- tAUSTRALIA 8:. NEW CALEDONIA. C t' a i: P01t Said, Suez, Colombo, 1 le- Cgihflfihgngigh mantle, Melbourne qy [111935 Every 28 days the China. Noumea Main Line A. INDIAN OCEAN LINES. P01t Said, Suez, Diibouti, Zanziba1, Mutsamudu 0r Moroni Mayotte, , 10th of each i Majunga, Nossi-Be, Diego- Suarez, filonth { ’1‘an1atave,1{éunion, Mauritius MAIN LINES' i. [Port Said, Suez, Djiboiiti,Ad1n Diego} i I i 1 i | 25th of each Month 1 l . 1 L Zanzibai to Dar- es— Salam, Ibo, Pomba L'minect_lr!1)l"l?h mail 11] the: IOHL 1 Mozambique, Quilliinano,Bei1a. Suaiez, Suinte- Ma1ie, ’1‘-.11nntave Reunion, Mauiitiusu Uft’tlch muni/i. Diego-Sua1ez to Nos~i- Be Analalai e, Conmcting Majunga, Muintiiano, Momndm a, with mail , Ambohibé, and Tuléar. of the i Diego-Suarez to Beira, Lourengo— 2501 of each ' Marques, and Natal .. . Month MEDITERRANEAN. —\Veek1y dop 111111e~ for Alexundiiin I‘mt S.1iii,I“egioiit,S\1i-1n Ports Piranb‘ Simina, Constantimp‘ 6, black Sze1(0dess-.,1 Noxoiossiflc, Batoum, 321:). Feltnightiy for Julia, S11 onix‘a, Sy ra Patios, Suds. BM, and \.1ples. DEPARTUII’ ES ISROZII B011’1)EA ELY. For Corunna, Lisbon, Dakar, Rio BRAZIL { J aneiro, Montevideo S: Buenos Ayres } Every 23 days and For Vigo, Lisbon, Dakar, Pernam- I buco, Bahia, Rio Jauciro, Monte- E‘ . 23 1 R“ ER PLATE' vid_e_o and Buenos Ayres } . any (age Offices—Paris: I, Rue Vignon; Marseilles: |6, Rue Cannebiere; Bordeaux: 20, Allées d'Orleans; London: 97, Cannon Street, E.C. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK AD V wrisnn. 25 Tlnglo-ilmerican Nile Steamer and Hotel Company. X C U RS I 0A 8' FRONI CAIRO to ASSOUAN and back, B11 the rim modzrn. clatIiI—lirzhml Stranzmx TWENTY DAYS “PURITAN,” ‘JIAYI‘LOWEI ” and ‘ TIUTOBIL , ON THE NTLE. NEW WEEKLY RAPIT) “EXPRESS SERVIcE" FROM LUXOR to ASSOUAN and back, By the new and luxuriously fitted SS. “INDIANA." EIGHT DAYS’ TRIP from CAIRO to the ist CATARACT and back for .£ 13 5s. REGULAR SERVICE TO THE SECOND CATARACT AND KHARTOOM. NEW COMMODIO'US FIRST- CLASS HOTEL AT ASSO'UAN. SAVO'Y HOTEL, ISLAND 0F ELEPHANTINE, AT THE FIRST CATARACT. Magnificent situation. Latest sanitary arrangements. Standing in its own gardens, covering eight acres. Electric Lighted. Every modern comfort convenience, and} uxury. Dahabeahs of all sizes f0I Family Parties. Small Stgamers for In irate chaI ter. Steam Launches for Local Excursions. Steam Tugs fOI towing Dahabeahs. Steam BaIges f0I Freight TranspaIt. ANGLO- AMERIcAN NILE STEAMER AND HOTEL COMPANY, (‘AIRO OFF“ 1 S A\IJ \I))(I\lSTR \TIUN SHARXA BOULAC New Greeeagaemm Telephone. Post Box, 686. Telegraphic Address: “TRANSPORT, CAIRO" ALGIERS.—MUSTAPHA-SUPERIOR. SPLENDTD HOTEL. Magnificent First-class Hotel of pure Moorish Style. The Highest situated on Mustapha Hill. Full South. Unriyalled Panorama of the Far- famed Ba y and Town of Algiers. Large Garden ; Lawn Tennis, &c. Drainage Perfect. III ODERl-l TE 011A R GES. H. THOMA, Proprietor. ALGIERS. —MUSTAPHA- SUPERIOR. HOTEL CONTINENTAL ET D’ORIENT. FIRST—CLASS HOTEL, Full South, Splendid View. Four Acres of Garden, Tennis Court. English Billiard Table. Calorifere. Excellent Drainage. Hydraulic Lift. Ascenseur. Omnibus on Arrival of Steamers. Printed Tariffs sent on Application. J. HILDENBRAND, Proprietor and Manager. B2 4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, AMIENS. HOTEL DE FRANCE, D’ANGLETERRE, AND DE L’EUROPE. IRST-CLASS HOTEL, close to the Cathedral, the Museum, and other Public Buildings. Having been recently newly furnished, it offers great comfort. Families and Single Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of Apartments and Single Rooms. Omnibus at the Station. English spoken. AMSTERDAM. AMSTEL HOTEL THE LARGEST HOTEL IN THE TOWN. Patronized by the highest class of English Travellers. STRONGLY RECOMMENDED T0 FAMILIES. Every Modern Comfort, combined with Moderate Prices. ANDERMATT. Climatic Summer Health Resort. St. Gotthard, 1AM metres above sea, ‘33 of an hour distant from Goschenen (Gull) Railway Station. -- Schollenen (Furka—Wallis & Grlmsel}. L .' R0 UTP GOSChenen l Teufelsbrncke (Oberhalp—Coire). Open situation. surrounded b GRAND HOTEL AND PENSION BELLEVU E-_splendid park grounds. Fittell and furnished according to all modern requirements. 150 Rooms and Saloons with Balconies and Verandahs. Pleasant Health Resort. Favourite house for travellers and guests HOTEL RESTAURANTS TOURISTE-_wilh moderate requirements. Elegant Care. Munich and Warteck beers on draught. Glass gallery. Cheap prices. OMNIBUS and carriage at the Goscheuen Station. I’ropr. GEBR. MU LLE it (from Hotel Furkn). ANTWERP. HOTEL ST. ANTOINE. PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. HIS excellent First-class Hotel, which enjoys the well- merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate Charges. Elegant Sitting, Reading and Smoking Rooms; fine Salle ix Manger, excellent Table d’Hote and choice W'ines. English, American, and French Papers. TELEPHONI. BATHS IN TH E HOTEL. ARLES-SUR-RHONE (FRANCE). GRAND HOTEL DU FORUM. IRST-CLASS, the largest in the town. Full South. Entirely renewed and considerably F enlarged. Bath Room. Saloons. Smoking Room. Antique Annexe. with a tower giving a splendid view of the country (Rhone and Camargue). Table d’HGte. Moderate charges. English spoken. Omnibus at the Station. Telephone. MICHEL, Proprietor. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. AVRANCHES. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANGE. BORDIGHERA; ALBRECHT'S . . . HE most frequented and the most comfort- a‘tle. Good Cooking. Renowned ('ellar. Omnibus at Station. (‘cmfortahlo apartxm-nts for f:unilies. English Papers. Splendid Snulphn'us, Louis XVI. (‘arriages for Mont St. Michel. Cook’s Tourists" Hotel. EMILE I’INEA I'. Proprietor. BADEN-BADEN. VICTORIA HOTEL. Best Position in Baden-Baden. Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSHOLZ. HIS is one of the finest—built and best—furnished First- class Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new Promenade opposite the new General Post Oifice, nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths and Augusta Baths; it commands the most charming views, and is reputed to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. Principally fre- quented by English and American Travellers. Highly recommended in every respect, very moderate charges. Table d'Hote at 1 and 6 o’clock. English and other Journals. Beautiful airy Dining-Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing-Room, Reading Sr Smoking-Rooms. Pension in the early & latter part of the season. Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift. Bath Rooms. wanilary Arrangements perfect. BADEN~BADE N. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND MOST FASHIONABLE RESORT IN EUROPE. BADEN-BADEN is unrivalled for its Summer Climate, deriving its special charm from its picturesque and salubrious situation among the lower hills of the Black Forest. Lovely walks and drives. International Races and Lawn Tennis. Good Fishing, Shooting, and various other Sports. Splendid Conversation House, with Concert, Ball, Reading, Restaurant, and Society Rooms. Excellent Orchtstra. THE ESTABLISHMENT IS OPEN THE WHOLE YEAR. Hot Mineral Springs, specially efficacious for the Cure of Gout, Rheu- matism, and Disorders of the Stomach and Liver. NEW GRAND DUOAL BATH/N6 ESTABLISHMENTS “THE rnEnemc BATHS" & “EMPRESS AUGUSTA BATHS.” Unique for its Perfection and Elegance. GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE. Large Garden. Good Cookery. MODERATE Pmcss. Mineral, Pine, Mud, and Medicinal Baths of every description. Perfect Sanitation. Magnificent Hotels and Villas. Excellent Educational Establishments. English Church. All information at the Bureau of the “ Cure Committee.” BADE N-BA DEN. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE Highly reputed and well patronisr-d Fll’st-l'l:l~'s Family llotel. combining every modern comfort with flammable Terms. Beautiful Situation in tlicmost elvgant part of Baden. at the entrance of the Livlltn-mlml Avenue. faring Promenade, Theatre and Conversation House. Splendid New Public Rooms. (‘vntrzll Hot-Water Heating. Electric Light. Apartments with Bath. Lift. Large (mull-n. (‘uwrrd Restaurant Terraces. l’crfcct Sanitation. Pension Arrangements. Open :ill 1110 \vur. ADOLF DURINGER, I’I‘Upl'ielor. Brand IIousez—Hotel des Ambassadeurs, Mentone. . 6 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. BADEN-BADEN. First-class Hotel, nearest Conversation House and Bathing Establish- ments. Large Park. Recently enlarged by 40 quiet . and sunny rooms overlooking the Park, Central St3am Heating, Hydraulic Lifts. Electric Light throughout, Charges Strictly Moderate. Pension. A. RGSSLER, Proprietor. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL AND BADHAUS ZAHRINGER HOF. THIS large FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is beautifully situated in the . midst of a. large Park, near the Promenades, Terraces, 82c. Mineral Baths. Lift. Sanitary Arrangements perfect. Pension. Moderate Prices. H. BAYER, WM. and E GROSHOLZ. A BAALE (BASLE). HOTEL SCHWEIZERI—IOF. HIS beautiful FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT is the most important and the best situated, opposite the Central Station. It has been entirely refurnished and fitted with the most recent improvements. Vast covered Restaurant Terrace. Highly recommended. Terms moderate. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. Managed by the Proprietor, E. J. GOETZINGER. BASLE. HOTEL HUI-ER- Largest First-Class Family House at the Central Station. FINEST and QUIETEST SITUATION. GARDEN. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. STEAM HEATING. LIFT. BASLE. TIIREE 1(INGS' HOTEL. (Hotel des Trois Rois.) (me of the lending continental Hotels, in a quiet and loaultiful s‘tnution, with large balcony uné extensive View on river and town. C FLi‘CK, Proprietor. BASLE. BASLE. HOTEL BERNEBHOF. H OTEL 30 H R IEDER Z UM Finest and most convenient position on the l‘ronienudes, near the Central St .tion. . , DEUTSCHEN HOF' Comfortable House. Electric Light. Opposrte the Baden Hallway Station. Com- Moderate Charges. fol-table accommodation. Moderate Charges. A. GEILENKIRCHEN, Proprietor. Electric Ugh“ M. ERNE, Proprietor. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK OF THE RHIHE AND NORTH GERMANY, The Black Forest, The Hartz. Thilringerwald, SaxonlSwitzerland, Rugen, The Giant Mountains, Taunus, Odenwald, Elsass and Lothringen. 42 Maps and Plans. 103. 1901. MURRAY’S HA ‘i’ DBOOK ADVERTISER. BAYEUX. HOTEL DU LUXEM BOURG. Reputed the best. Situated in the centre of the town, close to the Cathedral and public buildings. Breakfast, 2 fr. 60 0.; Dinner, 3 fr. Rooms from 2 fr. Table d’Hote. Restaurant a la Carte. Garden. Billiardroom. Recreation Ground. Carriages for Excursions. ENGLISH SPOKEN. BERLI HOTEL DER NREXCHSHOF. 70a, WILHELMSTRASSE, 70a (close to the Unter den Linden). FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. ELEGANT HOME for FAMILIES. Arrangements made. Inclusive terms. LEOPOLD SCHWARZ, Proprietor. POTSDAMERPLATZ, 1. BERLIN. POTSDAMERPLATZ, 1. BRAND HOTEL BELLEVUE &TH|EBGARTEN HOTEL (n%°é'§é'c . 1“IRST— (‘LJ SS. . Much enlarged by new building. provided with every modern comfort. Lift. Electric Light. Rooms from 3 Marks upward. Smoking. Writing, and Reading Rooms. Special arrangements for protracted stay and famil 5. Small and large apartnwnts in connection with Baths and Toilet Room. Opposite the Potsdam Station. not far from the Anhalt Station. In proximate vicinity of the Thiergarten and Zoological Gardens, Proprietor : EMIL METZGER. B ER N E. BERNERHOF‘ HOTEL. Thi< beautiful First-class E~tabli~hment is the most important and the best situated in the Town, at two minutes' walk from the Station, and close to the House of Parliament. It is surrounded by abeautiful garden with a large terrace. and commands a full view of the Alpd. 1m superior interior arrangements, the comfort of its Private Apartments, Public l’arlourS, Ren’ding Saloon, etc, make it the most desirable residence for English Families and single Travellers. Reduced Prices for protracted stays and in Winter season. Lift. Electric Light. Billiard Table. KRAFT & SONS, Pa-oprietarx. BIARRITZ. 'I-IOTEL VICTORIA. Imperial Grounds, Grande Plago. HIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL replete with all the latest improvzmcnts. Sanitary Arrangements by Doulton. Fine situation opposite the British Club, in the Centre of the Best Promenades, 'and near Golf Links. 150 Rooms and Saloons facing the Sea and Full South. Lii‘t. Electric Light. CalorL fore. Lawn Tennis. Renowned Cuisine. Carxiages of all kinds. Moderate Charges. ' J. FIDURNEAU. . BIDEFORD. Central for the whole of North Devon, Westward Ho, Clovelly, Hartland, Bude; racombe. and Lynto . .. é Ilf 11 Station with Private ROYA L H OT E L. Overlooking the River ’ entrance, HIGH CLASS. Tor-ridge and Old Bridge. Superbly furnished and lofty rooms. Ventilation and Sanitary arrangements perfect. Continental Courtyard. Finest Staining and Coach-house in Devonshire. Delightful Winter Resort. A portion ofthe house built in 1688 by an old merchant prince retains its magnificent oak staircase and suite of rooms, in one of which Charles Kingsley wrote a portion of “ Westward Ho." BIDEFORD. NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL: THE OLDEST, LARGEST, AND PRINCIPAL HOTEL in THE Town. . Private Sitting Rooms, with excellent views. The House is pleasantly situated in the centre of the Town, overlooking the river Torridge, and other Hotels. 11. is well-known for its . .im .. . . Adjoining the Railway superior a. With J ‘ charges. Proprietor of and Booking Office for the Clovelly and Buds Coaches in connection with the L. 5: S. W. Railway. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiards, .two tables. H. ASCOTT, Proprietor. BLAIR ATHOLL. ATHOLL ARMS HOTEL. ADJOINING THE STATION. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL BLAIR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central point from which to vital, Killiecrankie, the Queen's View, Loch Turnmel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry Turnd incl, and Fender; the Grounds of Blair Castle, etc. ; and it is the most convenient resting place for breaking the long railway journe to and from the North of Scotland. 13 MACDONALD 81, SONS. Pronrietors. 8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BLOIS. GRAND HOTEL DE BLOIS. (Near the Castle of Blois.) THIBAUDIER-GIGNON, Proprietor. MOST HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO FAMILIES. Baths, Cmtral Ileufiug, Shower Baths. Reading Room. Telephone. Dark Room for Photographers. STORAGE FOR MOTOR CARS AND CYCLES. Carriages for Chambom’ and Environs, English spoken, Lift. BO N N . Electric Light. GRAND HOTEL ROYAL Situation without Equal, facing Rhine. seven Mountains, and L’inding Pier. Extensive English Garden overlook'ng the Rhine Valley as far as l-lemageu. First-class l-‘rench Cooking. Wholesale Wine Merchant. Advantaggous Arrangments for prolonged slay. F. C. EISENMENGER. Manager. BORDIGHERA (RIVIERA). THE NEW __.___-—' HOTEL ROYAL Large High—class Hotel. Full South. Garden. Terraces. Grand situation on elevated ground commanding finest View of the whole coast. Electric Light. Lift. Bath—rooms on each floor. Corridors and public rooms heated by steam. Sanitation certified. Every modern appliance. KUNZLER & PALOMBI, Proprs. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE Family House. Full South. Central situation in a fine garden near railway station. Electric Light throughout. Known for its comfort and good cuisine. Moderate prices. J. KUS'AUCR (Swiss), Manager. An Omnibus for Mr {Ira Establish m: 118 nm 1‘s all trains at Bordighcra and at Trutinziglia Station 1'_r'rrqurstu1‘. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. HOTEL MEURICE. FIRST—CLASS. Recommended to Tourists. Select Company. Situated in the most Central part. Choice Cuisine and Wines. Arrangements made for a protracted siay. Electric Light. throughout. Telephone. Moderate Charges. J. BOUTON-DEPORT, Proprietor. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS France). GRAND HCOTEL a. PARIS The best in every respect. Lift. Electric Light. Telephone. Madame LEQUIME, Proprietress. LA BOURBOULE'LES'BAINS (France). MEDIGIS & PALACE HOTEL. Modern Sanitary System. Very comfortable. Electric Light, Telephone, Lift, Omnibus, Interpreter, Baths, (‘aloriférm A. SENNEGY, Proprietor. BRUNSWICK. HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS. Prominent Central Location, opposite the Dome and the Castle Dankwarderode, near the Residential Palace and the Theatre. FIRST—CLASS HOUSE. Openly situated on three sides. NEVVLY BUILT. Fireproof. EVERY MODERN COMFORT. MODERATE TERMS. ROBERT SCHRADER. BRUNSWICK. SCHRADER’S HOTEL. (ronmmux czssénn OLD RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Every Modern Comfort. HOTEL CARRIAGE Room from 2 marks upward. AT ALL TRAINS. THE DIRECTION. BRUNSWICK. HOTEL MONOPOL. Opposite the Railway Station. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. BRIT. '0 TOEPEL, Proprietor. BRU N l G HOTEL KURHAUS BRUNIG, PENSION 3400 Feet above the Sea. Railway Station between Lucerne and Interlaken. Comfortable Hotel. Modern Sanitation. SPLENDID HEALTH RESORT. BRUSSELS. GRAND HOTEL, GERNAY. Close to the Railway Station for Ostend, Ger- many, Holland, Antwerp and Spa, forming the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord. Moderatecharges. Baths in the Hotel. Telephone, 64. Electric Light throughout. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK or GONSTANTINOPLE, BRUSA, AND THE TROAD. Edited by General Sir CHARLES \VILEON, R E. lVith 12 Maps and f’lans: Cr. 8V0., 7s. 6d. BUDA PEST. Grand Hotel Hungaria. First—class Hotel, patronised by the best Society, most agreeably situated on the Danube. opposite the Royal Castle. Cellar and Cafe. Reading Room. Lift. Panoramic View. Excellent Cuisine, Electric Light. 0. J. BURGER, Manager. 10 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MaY; BUXTON HYDROPATHIC BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Telegraph/c Address, “Comfortable, Buxton." National Telephone, No. 5. Apply, Mr. H. LOMAS. ITUATED over One Thousand Feet above the sea level, shr ltered from the north and L east, overlooking the Public Gardens, and clo~e to the celebrated Minvrnl Wells and Baths. Magnificent Public Rooms. Amerian Elevator, Electric Light, llydropnhic Baths of every description, Electric Baths, Massage, lilectro—Massage. th: Nauheim Treatment and the Greville Hot Air Treatment. TENNIS, GOLF, HUNTING, FISHING. CINDERELLA DANCE EVERY SATURDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. C N. HOTEL D’AAIEIGLETERRE, » Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77. 79, 81. 7- - leST-CLASS. Situated in th'- Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of the best Suc’ety. 100 elegantly Furnished and comfortable Bed Rooms and hitting Rooms. Breakfasts ii la Carte. 'I‘abl- d‘Hote Breakfasts at 3 francs; Dinner at Table d’llote. 4 francs Suites of Apartments for Families. Elect'ic Light throughout. Ba'hs. Telephone. CAEN. HOTEL D’ESPAGNE. IRST-CLASS. - Very Comfortable. Recommended by Baedekers’ Guide. Moderate Charges. Breakfast. 2s. 3d.: Dinner. 28. 8rl.: Wine. cycler. and soda water included; Bedroom from L’s. The Proprietor speaks English and French : he is a Member of the Cyclists Touring Club, London, and Touringr Club of France. E. RENAUX, Proprietor. CAIRO. EDEN-PALACE—HOTEL AND HllTEL KHEDIVIAL. I'lirst-class Hotel. especially built fora Hotel in 1897. with all the modern improzwncnz‘s and crew comfort of home. Fire—proof. Exceptionally line and healthy situation, opposite the Tropical Esbekiel Gardens, close to the Tramways and within a few minutes‘ walk of the Railway Station, the Post and Telegraph Offices, the Opera House, and the principal Banks. 200 rooms and salons. Drawing, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Winter Garden. The most of the rooms full south. Restaurant. American liar. Billiards. l-llectric Light throughout. Lift. Perfect, sanitary arrangements. Plans and Tar/[T on application. Moderate Charges. Telegraphic Address: “ EDEN. CAIRO." CAIRO. CANNES. MENA HOUSE HOTEL Hotel Pension and Villa de la Tour. .-I 1‘ THE PYRJ )1 l ()5. . . ~ ..~ . - . . . » Well situated. “'est end Cannes. Highly EilN-d‘us Ell°lls~h Elm”) llottl.‘ {"31“ recommended and considered as one of the “will“: Limfl lenms. Quml “M N‘All‘“ most comfortable Family Houses. Arrange. Shooting Free. Riding ll.orse<, Donkeys, inents for short or long stays. Telephone, Camels and Desert Carts. Races. Tennis. Electric Trains toand troni the I‘own. Terms: 13/- to '20/- inclusive. E. til-13L.I’»'0p1‘u’tw‘. CANARY ISLAN DS. SANTA CATALINA HOTEL, »« LAS PALIIIAS. Facing the Sea. Surrounded byits own beautiful gardens. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Private Sitting Rooms and complete Suites of Apartments. Resident English l:hyswum and Nurse. Near English Church, Golf Links Tennis, (kc. Address—THE CAhAlfl ISLAth 00M PANY. Limited. 1, Laurence l’ountuey Ilill. London. EC. 1901. MURRAY’S HAL‘DBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 CARLSBAD. Page CARLSBAD. the Station on the Buschtiehrader Railway and the Imperial Austrian State Railway. Ordinary services from all the large towns on the Continent. Express and Sleeping Car Services. Trains de Luxe. The Orient Express (Paris, Constantinople); the Ostend Express. CARLSBAD is situated in a romantic Valley, and surrounded by extensive and beautiful Woods, and is the Premier Alcaline Mineral Bath. Average annual temperature, 45'7° F. Average summer temperature, 57 ‘20 F. 16 Mineral Springs, varying from 97 “8° F. to 163' 6° F. The Sprudel and the Muhlbrunn being the most frequented. MAGNIFICENT BATHING 1900. ESTABLISHMENTS- as- 50,000 BATHERS. .9 I THEISNELVEKBfiQSsE'RBAD 125,000 TOURISTS AND REMARKABLE IN EUROPE. PASSING VISITORS, The Waters of Carlsbad are prescribed for disorders of the Stomach, the Intestines, the Spleen, the Liver, the Kidneys and Urinary Organs, Hemorrhoids, Gout, Obesity, Constipation, and (with great success) Diabetes. Four Large Bathing Establishments, fitted with the latest appli- ances, are under the control of the Municipality. Mineral baths, soft-water baths and shower baths, iron-mud baths, steam and needle baths, electric bath, massage, carbonic acid baths. Swedish hydro- pzithic and medical gymnastic establishment (Zander system). Bathing and swimming in the River Eger. NUMEROUS FIRST-CLASS HOTELS AND OVER 1,000 PENSIONS & VILLAS Replete with every Modern Comfort. Electric Light and the Incandescent Light system. Separate Water Supply system for drinking and household purposes. Nearly all wood and asphalte paving. Newly constructed drainage system. Theatres, Orchestral and Vocal Concerts, Military Band, Dancing, Riding School, Lawn Tennis, Horse Races. A network of charming walks and drives of over 62 miles in the mountains and woods surrounding the town, affording many splendid views. Information and Dawripfiro Pamphm on application to the Town Council. 12 ‘MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MW, OPENED GARLSBAD, BOHEMIA. OPENED #33?“ RESIDENZ HOTEL FIRST-CLASS HOTELy IN THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN. Opposite the "SPRUDEL," and near the other Springs. In place of the old HOTEL "’3 FASANEN." NEWLY BUILT. WITH ALL COMFORT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. STEAM HEATING. LIFT. TELEPHONE AND BATHS. SPLENDID DININI; AND CAFE SNLOHNS. EXCELLENT TABLE. CHOICE WINEs. OcEN SI‘MMER AND \\'INTI:I:. OMNIBI'S AT THE STATION. Managed by the Proprietor, ANTON WIESINGER. CARLS BA D. [lllllllll lllllEl PUPP. Most frequented First-class Hotel. Rooms at all prices. Spring and Autumn considerably reduced terms. Address for Telegrams: “PUPP, CARLSBAD.” CARLSBAD, BOHEMIA. I-IO'I'IEII. KROI-I. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, With every comfort of modern times. IN THE BEST PART OF THE TOWN AND NEXT TO THE SPRINGS AND BATHS. EXCELLENT TABLE. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. TELEPHONE. Telegrams : “ KROH, CARLSBAD." CARLS BA D. HOTEL WURTTEMBERGER HOF. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Opposite the General Post Office in the Market Place. OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. Lift. Baths. E leotr/o Light. Morning Sun. Veranda/.7. DANZER & STADLER, Proprietors. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 CARLSBAD. ANGER’S HOTEL. This FIRST-CLASS HOTEL ofl‘ers special comfort to English and American Travellers. OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. CHARGES MODERATE. Lawns” AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT. Cofl'ee Room and American Bar. Omnibus at the Station. Electric Light. Central Heating Apparatus. FRANCIS ANGER. CARLSBAD. ROSCHER’S HOTEL. “GOLDENER SCHILD AND ZWEI DEUTSCHE MONARCHEN. ” FIRST- CLASS HOTEL, in the most beautiful location of the town. 200 Rooms and Saloons. Concert Garden, large Promenade Garden. Remarkable Dining Saloon “itlr large Glass \ e1 andah Coflee Saloon with Newspapers 111 all languages. Concert of the Concert Band twice :111e1k. Baths. Carriages. Omnibus. Electric Light. Lift. Telephone. 1111111.» Ticket Oflroe and Roy 11 Bav z'1rian Customs Revision in the House. F. ROSCHER, Hotelier. CARLSBAD. HOTEL KONIGSVILLA AND VILLA TERESA. FIRST- CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, prominent central location, close to the Springs and Baths, standing in its own grounds. DINING, SMOKING AND READING ROOMS. VERANDAH. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BA THS April and May, August and Septembeineduced Prices. Telegrams :—“ Konrasvrnm, CARLSBAD." CARLSBAD. HOTEL BRISTOL With Dependance: VILLA VICTORIA. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best location, close to Springs and Bathe Standing in its own grounds. MUCH FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMER/CANS. Dining, Smoking, and Reading Rooms. VERANDAH. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BATES. Telegrams 2—“ BRISTOL. CARLSBAD.” l4_ MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CARLSBAD. SAVOY WEST-END HOTEL Honoured by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales, H.111. Grand Duke of Russia, H.R.H. Ir’riuccss of Sale Cobm'gdx'otha, [1.11. The Khediue of Egypt, (Cc. l HIS HOTEL is constructed and flitéd up on the most approved principles of modern high-class Hotels. It is situated on the Schlossberg « pposite the American Park, in the healthiest position of Carlsbad, and is central to all the differe: t Springs. First-class Restaurant. Grill Boon. Ladies’ Salvon. Readingr and Smoking Rornls. Garden. Verandah. Terrace. Electric Light. Lift. The new Cleopatra Vizln Annex of the Hotel is beautifully furnished and arranged in large and small zipArtrneLts. -1 ULIC’H if: NUNGOVIC’H (Connected with the Savoy, Continental and d’ A nglotvrre Hotels, Cairo, and Grand Hotel, Helouan, and Hotel des Rains, lIelouan, Egypt). CARLS BAD. 5 ROSCHER S HOTEL Goldener Schi/d‘and Zwei Deutsche Monarchen. First—class Hotel, finest position in town. 200 Rooms and Saloons. Concert Garden. Large Promenade Garden. Splendid Dining-room with extensive glass Verandah. Czit‘é with Newspapers in every language. \Veekly, two concerts by the Concert Orchestra. Baths. Electric Light. Lift. 'l‘elephone. Carriages. Omnibus. F. ROSCHER, Proprietor, Court Purvoyor ol‘ the. Prince of Sellaumburg—Lippe. CHAMONIX. HOTEL ROYAL ET DE SAUSSURE First-class. Unrivalled Position. Large Gardin and Terraces. Magnificent View uf Mont Blanc. Terms for a stay, 9 Francs. Mrs. EXNER is Engli>h. E. EXNER, Proprietor. CHAMON l x. Murray‘s Handbook of Switzerland. l‘Am‘ L—EWITZERLAND without the PFNNIXE ALPS. \Yith 16 Maps and ‘ Pl u. \Vell Situated. Facing Mont Blanc. Very PAllglqu—The I‘ENXINE ALP-q, portions Comfortable Hillel. Saloon. Butt S. Central of the FRENCH and PIEDMONTEF‘E Heating. Electric Light. Moderate Terms. ALPS, and the [TALIAN LAKES. \Vlih ED- SIMOND. Proprietor. 1'3 Maps and Plans. Gs. each. CO LOG N E. CO M 0. PLINIUS GRAND HOTEL (0n the border of the Lake). Magnificent Palace, built for the purpose of an hotel, with the most complete comfort. (Opened March, 1899.) Very reasonable prices. English Church. V. COLLEONI, Proprietor. J. FORCA TI. )lunuger. 1901. MURRAY ’3 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 CONSTANTINE (ALGERIA). THE GRAND HOTEL. First-class. FINEST and most Central Position in the Town. Com— pletely Renovated. Magnificent Dining and. Reception Rooms to seat 300 people. Baths and Telephone in the Hotel. Interpreter and Omnibus to every Train. Noted Cellars. Q. LEGEY, Proprietor. CONSTANTI NOPLE. GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. HOTEL BRISTOL. GRAND HOTEL p’ANGLETERRE & ROYAL J. IIIISSIRIE). HOTEL BYZANCE. All these First-class Hotels have a glorious view, and are replete With every modern comfort. Drainage and Sanitary Arrangements on English Principles. First-class French and English Cuisine. Vestre Boulevard. COPEN HAG EN. Vestre Boulevard. TURIST HOTEL. First-class House, newly-l)ui1t,t\vo minutes from the Terminus and Tivoli. lilo comfortable rooms from 2 Kr. upwards, including electrie light and service. Lift. Excellent Dinner-satzKr. Baths. Beautiful rending‘room. Cafe and Restaurant. Porter at all trains. P. NIELSEN. Director. COUTANCES. COUTANCES. HOTEL. D’ANGLETERRE GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. i. ,1 -'lz.'. Refurnished with every comfort. Re- Centre Of the town. PM“ “188 . . 1 . House. Recommended to Families. commended to Bamllles. Mouerate Prices. Member of the French BelO'ian and Omnibus meets all Trains. Storage for ’ " ’ Cycles. BRIENS, Proprietor. Egghslidlllgniilgg (,lubs. Omnibus DINARD 10 IIours from Southanwton I 0 (via Saint-31010). ‘ The Most Fashionable Summer and Winter Resort in the WEST OF FRANCE. Noted for its Mild Climate in Winter. GOLF, TENNIS, CRICKET, CYCLING, ETC. ‘ JOHN LE COCQ, Banker, House and Estate Agent. DINARD. ' DlNAN~PllRllME 16 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, LIFT. DRESDEN, ALT ELECTRIC LIGHT. HOTEL BRISTOL Real English Home Comforts. Great Luxurv Patronised b\ English Families. G, WENTZEL, Proprietor. DRESDEN. HOTEL STADT ROME. QT'IET SITIIATION. IN THE CENTRE OF ALL INTERESTING PARTS, \\'l“.LL—KNO“’N HOUSE. PATIIONISED BY ENGLISH VISITORS. PENSION TERMS MAY BE ARRANGED. GI'STA l' ILLIYG. Proprietor. Situated 111 a. delightful pint of the city , DRESDEN, right in flout of 0the Picture Gallery. Roy-211 Ope121Roy21l Palace \\ ith Green V 21ults, Bruhl Teiiace, and General Post Ofiice. WEBER’S CONFIDENTIALLY RECOMMENDED for its Extreme Comfort and Moderate Charges. Pension Arrangements. Steam Heating. H OTEL Electric Light. Lift, Baths, etc. " BERNH. WEBER, Proprietor. DRESDEN. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. First— class House neuly opened opposite Central Station. Finest- p1rt Latest implovements. Fine (r:11(len.Elect1'ie Light and Steam Heating in e\ er\ 1'00111. Lift Rooms from TWO Marks Pension Terms Highly recommended to American and English families Managed by the Proprietor. MAX OTTO. DINANT—SUR-MEUSE. . DUSSELDORF. HDTEL DE LA TETE “’03- Hotel Monopol—Metropole. ALEXIS DISIERE, P7 oprietor. IRST-CL ASS upon the GRAND PLACE ELECTRIC LIGHT. STEAM HEATING. Is to be recommended for its comfort. MODERATE PRICES, Pension from 8 or 9 francs per day FRITZ ZEUTZSCHE L, Proprietor. DUBLIN. Charming :ituah‘ou, mr'erlonkiigg Slap/MW: Grew: Park. 1110:! Crittral Penna”. Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Hydraulic Passenger Elevator. E M 8. BATH EMS. THE ROEMERBAD. United Hotels and Baths. PRINCE OF WALES OF PARIS AND ROEMERBAD. First-class Family Hotel. Beautifully situated on the left river side, just op: 1osite the Kursaal and Kurgarteu. Baths. Inhaling Institution. Lift. Electric Light throughout. Large Garden. CHARLES RUCKER proprietor. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 .m ~3— m... HOTEL BRISTOLBADEMS- Opposite the Royal Baths and Park. In the best part of the Town. Pension. Moderate Charges. E. SADONY, Proprietor. ENGELBERG. THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 flz. high), near Lucerne. Season 15th May—30th September. HOTEL SONNENBERG. THE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand Alpine scenery. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recommended by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONS EN BERG, in the finest and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central place for sketching, botan- islng, and the most varied and interesting excursions. The ascent of the Tltlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths. Waterspring 5° R.; 200 Rooms. Pension from £2 63. a week upwards. Because of its so sheltered situation specially adapted for a stay in May and June. Resident English Physician. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. KURHAUS HOTEL TITLIS. IRST-CLASS HOTEL, best situated in the valley, in the middle of an extensive garden. 240 Beds. Large sitting—rooms. Lift. Electric Light in all the rooms. English Chapel in the garden. Good attendance. Moderate charges. Cook’s tickets taken. Open from 1st May until 1st October. GRAND HOTEL 'AND KURANSTALT. This new First—class Hydropathie Establishment with 250 Beds, two Lifts, Electric Light in all the rooms, Central Heating, opposite to the Hotel Titlis, will be open on the lst June. The building is fitted up to the most recent hygienic priiriiplcs. The various medical appliances fulfil the utmost demands of modern science and furnish everything necessary for hydropathic, mechanical and electric treatment. For illustrated prospectus :Llld tariff please apply to the Proprietor, Ed. CATTANI. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. I-IO'I'IEEI- ENG-EL. WELL KNOWN HOTEL WITH GOOD ACCOMMODATION, CONTAINING 100 BEDS. Conversation Saloon, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light. Baths. Pension: 6% to 8 frs. a «lay, everything included. Reduced prices in June and September. Omnibus at Railway Station. sz, WYRSCH—CATTANI, Manager. F’ECAMP, NORMANDY. Grand Hotel des Bams and de Londres. First-class Hotel, on the Beach. The most important facing the Sea, near the Casino and the Jetty. Moderate Charges. Telephl ine. English spoken. Open June 15 to October 1, FRANZENBAD. Bohemia, HOTEL KREUZ_ Austria. Centre of the Kur Park. close to the Springs and Baths. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. German, English, and French spoken. KARL MEYER, Proprietor. C 18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, . EXETER, DEVONSHIRE. POPLE’S NEW LONDON HOTEL PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY. ADJOIXING NORTHERNHAY PARK AND NEAR THE CATHEDRAL Large covered Continental Courtyard. Famed for its Cuisine and Wines. Table d’Héte. Night Porter. Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs. POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. FRAN KFORT—ON —TH E—MAI N. HOTEL DIE: RUSSII} OPPOSITE THE CENTRAL RAIIAVAY STATION. FIRST—CLASS HOTEL. Electric Light. Steam Heating. K. FRANK, Proprietor. FRANKFORT-ON‘THE-MAIN. GR AND “OT Eh NAT \ON Mi . (OPPOSITE THE CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION.) FIRST—CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Moderate Charges. Tarifi' in Every Room. ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. H. HABERLAND, Proprietor. Lift. FRElBURG (IN BREISGAU, BADEN). EUROPE HOTEL. New Firstclass Hotel. Close to Station, in be tsitn Ition ; surrounded by gin-dens. Electric Light. Steam Heating. E. BURKARDT, Proprietor. FREIBURG (in Breisgau, Baden). HOTEL VIOTORIA. Near the Station, Post, and Telegraph Offices. Best Situation. Good Attendance. Moderate Charges. Pension. FRE UIDENSTA I) 1'. 2,600 feet above sea.) BLACK FOREST HOTEL BA IL WA Y-LINE—STUTTG’ART, OFFENB URG, STRASB URG. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, in most healthy position on a. charming hill, in the middle of a beautiful Park. Electric Light. Best centre for excursions. Lawn Tennis. Sanitary Arrangements Perfect. ERNEST LUZ, Junior, Proprietor. GENEVA. HOTEL PENSION FLEISCHMANN Bend Point de Plainpalais. Near the Bastion Park. Fine situation. MODERATE CHARGES. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Buns. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK OF SWED . Stockholm, The Lakes, Upsala, Gothenburg, The Shores of the Baltic, &c. 3 Maps and Plan. 6s. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 1’9 'GENEV . GRAND HOTELADE LA PAIX. FIRST-CLASS, 200 Rooms, central and finest situation in front of the Lake and Mont Blanc. Entirely Renewed. Central Heating. Every Modern Comfort. FRED WEBER, Proprietor and Manager. - Telegraphic Address: “Hotel Paix, Geneva.” GRENOBLE. HOTEL MONNE'I‘. This splendidly-situated First-class Hotel, which is the largest in the Town, and enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has just been considerably enlarged and Newly Furnished. The Apartments, large and small. combine elegance and comfort, and every attention has been paid to make this one of the best Provincial Hotels. Public and Private Drawing-rooms. English and French Papers. Table d'HOte at ll and 6. Private Dinners at any hour. Excellent Cuisine. ’ MODERATE CHARGES. Stable for Motor Cars. The Oinnibuses of the Hotel meet all Trains. Baths. Interpreters. VEUVE TRILLAT, Proprietress. First-cl lBS Carriages can be had at the Hotel for Excursions to the Grande Chartreuse, Uriagemnd all places of int. irest amongst the Alps of Dauphiné. Every room lighted by Electricity. URIAGE—LES—BAINS. ‘ HOTEL RESTAURANT MONNET. Founded in. 1846. English Visitors will find every comfort and luxury in this First-class Establishment. Private Rooms for Families. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Table rl’HOte, 11 and 6. Carriages and Horses can be had in the Hotel for Excursions and Promenades. THE HAGUE, HOLLAND. I-IO'I'IEEI- DIES INDES- HOTEL DE LUXE. l HOTEL DE LUXE. THE First and Largest in the Town. Entirely Refurnished. In the centre of the town and facing the Royal Theatre. Two minutes from the \Vood. Electric Tramway for Scheveningen passes the Hotel. Electric Light. Intercommunal Telephone. Splendid Saloons and Apartments with every modern comfort. Baths and Hair-dressing Saloon in the Hotel. English Sanitary System. Doctor attached to the Hotel. Carriages and Riding Horses. Excellent Cuisine and choice Wines. Concert at Dinner. Elegant Hall and Saloons for Soirées and Balls. Omnibus meets every train. HALLER, Director. H A R ROGATE. GRANBY HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, STANDING IN ITS OWN GROUNDS AND FACING THE SOUTHERN STRAY. Nearest Hotel to the Golf Links. Elevator. Electric Light throughout. Latest Sanitary Arrangements. TERMS ON APPLICATION. 02 20 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, HOTEL 05'“?an HAVRE- meme “1+ HOTEL CONTINENTAL. quarter of the Town and recommended for FirSt~elnss Hotel in the finest situation in its Comfort and Moderate Charges. Rooms Harrc. facing the Jetty. Large and small from 2 to 5 francs. Restaurant b. In. (‘m-te. apartments. Table d'hOte. Restaurant in la 'I‘abled'hote. Breakfastfifrjoc, [finnors'figfrg‘ eqrte. Hnglishspoken. Telephone. 220i, l‘llei'tl'iv English and German spoken. I Light tln‘ouglmut. _ GRELLE. Proprietor. PAUL BLOUET, Proprietor. H El D E LB E RG. HOTEL YIC'I‘ORIA.. First-class Hotel in every respect. Execedingly well situated. Beautiful Verandah and large Garden at the book of the Home. Advantageous arrangements made with families intending a longer \‘Izu’. Electric Light. Highly recommended. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL SCH RIEDER. IRST-CLASS Hotel, nearest to the Station. Large Garden with covered Verandah. All Visitors' Rooms face the Garden. Oldest Hotel in the town, entirely renovated. Rooms from 2'50 to 5 marks, including light and aitendance. Arrangements made for prolonged BMY- 0. so TTERLIN, new Proprietor, H E I D E N, 2700 ifii‘ififo‘iiinsiim. Beautiful village, overlooking the lake of Constance. Exquisite health resort,bmcing climate. FREIHOF AND SGHWEIZERHDF F'FST‘GLfifiifls I I Extensive own grounds. shady park. wonderful View. Ail‘ords every Home Comfort. First rate Cuisine. Sanitary arrangements. Lawn for Tennis. Croquet. Bowls, Dances. Casino with Daily Concerts. English SerVil-o. Goats Whey. Baths and Hydroputhie Establishment. Milk from own farm. Electric. Light. Pension,7 to 1‘.’ frs. Please. write for Pamphlet. Season, May—October. Propr. ALTHERR—SIMOND. HILDESHEIM. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. FIRST— CLASS IIO l 'b'IL‘. Situated in the Centre of the Town. Baths in the house. Omnibus at the Station. Cent 'nl Heating Apparatus. 50 Rooms and Saloons, fitted up with every comfort of modern times. English Newspapers. C. HEERDT. H U LL. GROSYENOR HOTEL. High-class Family and Commercial. The most modern Hotel in the City. Convei ient for l}lii\\'8y and Steamboat. Every Comfort zit Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Night Boots. Billiards. Stafl', English throughout; under personal supervision of J. B. FOSTER. Proprietor. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY. THE HIGHLAND LINE via PERTH & DUNKELD is the ROYAL MAIL ROUTE AND IS THE DIRECT AND QUICKEST TO INVERNESS AND THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS of SCOTLAND. Express Train Service from England, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Perth, with Through Carriages and Sleeping Saloons. Tourist Tickets are issued from May 1st to October 31st, available for return up to December :ilst from the principal stations in England, Wales, and Scotland, and passengers booking.r to Inverness via, Dunkeld can make a selection from a large number of delightful Tours from Inverness, tickets for which are issued at reduced fares. From Aviemore a new and direct line to Inverness via Carr Bridge was opened in November, 1898, reducing- the distance between Perth and Inverness and north ‘ thereof by 26 miles, and shortening the time on the journey by an hour. The scenery on the route of the Highland Railway from Perth in the South to Wick and Thurso in the North, Kyle of Lochalsh in the West, Elgin, Keith and Buckie in the East, surpasses in interest and variety that of any in the Kingdom. For times of trains, fares, lists of lodgings, description of scenery, and other information, see the Company‘s Time Tables, and other publications. The Traffic Manager will be glad to answer any inquiry. Ask for Tickets via DUNKELD. The Railway has been extended to Kyle of Lochalsh, within half a mile of the Isle of Skye, and the Highland Railway Company have opened a comfortable Hotel at the Railway Terminus. The Station Hotel. Inverness, has recently been renovated and refurnished, and is now open to visitors. INVERNESS, 1901. T. A. WILSON, General Manager. HOMBURG. ‘ Buns 0,. “unnuw, MURRAY 3 HANDBOOK qr ram. _ GERMANY. The Nile, through Egypt, Nubia. Alex— PI'I‘TER'S PARK norm. AND VILLA. andria, Cairo, the Pyramids, Thebes, The t 'J‘empumryResidenceot‘llJHL the Prince Suez Canal, Peninsula of Sinai, The Cases, of Wales, ‘ Alil'fli‘liuk‘lllclllts Ina-hi: at redn’cml The FVOHII), &c 43 Maps and Plans. 158. prices in A pri , :iy, - nne am Neptelnwr. ' ‘ . . ,. . v ‘25 per cent. Discount for sick and uonmlml 10”] Edition, ReHBQd- With “hwy 119“ otfivers and their wives. Maps and Plans. HYEREs GRAND HOTEL DES PALMIERS Golf. English Billiards. Tennis. Concerts. Electric Light throughout. Lift. J. ZICK, Pronrietor. ILFRACOMBE. THE GRANVILLE. FIRST-CLASS BOARDING HOUSE. (lrznnl Sen Vimw. -l'_’ Bedrooms. Comfort, Sociability, Good Cooking. Finest l)rn\\'ing'—r00111 in Town. Billiards. Bijou Guide gratis. W. R. FOSTER. Proprietor. AN IDEAL Posx'rxou. ILI‘RAGOMBE HOTEL- THE PRINCIPAL AND ONLY HOTEL ON THE SEA SHORE. '1‘“ E Finest Private Marine Esplanade in the Kingdom. U nrl'valled Sea Frontage and open Surroundings, Grimm“. Five At-rea. 250 Aparlmcuta. l awn Tennis. Craquwt Lawn. Elegant Salle a Manger. Drawing. Reading. smoking and Billiard Rooms, and Sumptunus Lounge Hall on the Ground FIOOI‘. Passenger Lift. Moderate ’l‘arilf. There is attached lo the Hotel was of the Largest Swimming Bull!» in the United Kingdom (the temperature of which is regulated). Also well-appointed Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche. Shower, kc. H. R. ROVER, Manugrr. Th: ILI’rui-omhc Hutrl 00.. Ltd. To whom all communications should be addressed. 22 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, n, , AAA».NV./\~rvv\/..-, , r .. HE BEAUTIFUL AND SHELTERED ~ situation of INNSBRUCK renders it a very agreeable place of resi— dence all the year round. In spring as well as in autumn it is especially to be recommended as a stopping place betWeen the different watering places. It is also to be. recommended after a stourn at. the sea-side. INNSBRUCK is the centre from which ‘ many splendid excursions can be made in "every direction. and of any length. Attractive walks in the immediate neigh- bourhood of the town and the dilfercnt elevations. The climate in Winh'r—er. strr’ngn‘lu'niug. sunny/.frec from cold winds and Ibex. has attracted many visitors of late years. and among those who have found the. greatest. relief are weak. convalescent. nervous, appetiteless, and sleepless persons. N.B.—University, Grammar, Music, and other schools. Private Lessons of every 1 kind are available. so that studies can be. 5 continued and the education of children 1 carried on. IN’NSBRUGK. Thirty-one hours from London, via Arlberg, to Innsbruck. Through tickets ~ and» luggage registered through. Twenty-three hours from Paris. . Afr/V . ,- “HOTEL TYROL. FIRST - CLASS IIOTEL. (Opposite the Railway Station.) CARL LANDSEE, Proprietor. HOTEL DE L’EURDPE. F irst-c/ass Establishment. Affords every Modern Comfort. ELECTRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM. STEAM AND OTHER BATHR. Anton Hanreich, Proprietor. HOTEL GULDENE SONNE (Opposite the Station). FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. RENOWNED FOR ITS SUPERIOR CUISINE AND WINE. "RESTAI'RATEL'R" of the SOUTH RAJL‘VAY S’l‘A'l‘lON. CARL BEER, Proprietor. HOTEL KREID. (Next the Station.) SECOA'I) CLASS. The above Hotel offers Pension at the most moderate terms for the Winter Season, according to rooms, from tl.3 upwards. rooms included. RICHLY ILLUSTRATED GUIDES of INNSBRUCK sent on application, by the Proprietors of above Hotels, free of charge. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 INTERLAKEN. FINEST SITUATION. ELEVATORS. GRAND HOTEL Victoria. First—class. Unrivalled for its great comfort. 350 Rooms. 20 Saloons. Electric Light throughout. Central Heat- ing’. Lawn Tennis Grounds. Concerts. Balls. First—class Restaurant. ED. RUCHTI, Administrateur. , 10 Saloons. ‘ Three Francs. 'IlllEllEOS Ellld'll SHOTIEIIETIII 7GRAND HOTEL Jungfrau. Electric Light 2 0 0 Room 5. Rooms from First—class. thrOu ghout. First - class Restaurant. Grill-room. ED. SEILER, Manager. INTERLAKEN. smwdmfimr—Hma Shea Finest Views. First-class. Lift. Personally conducted by the Proprietors: E. STRUBIN 81. WIRTH. NITERL AKEN. Grand Hotel des Al pes. 200 Beds. Opposite the Junghau on the Principal Promenade (Holieweg), First—class Family Hotel. Moderate Terms. Personally conducted by the Proprietor—'1'. MATTI. INTERLAKEN. RUGEN HOTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK. Not to be confounded, with HOTEL JUN G'FRA U. Highly respected and fashionable F int-class Family Hotel. Beautiful views of the Glaciers and the Lakes. healthiest pmt of Interlaken. position Dust free. the rooms. Open from May to October. Extensive walks in a law e flr- tree forest. Lift. J. OESCH- MULLER, Proprietor and .31 anager. Situated in the highest and Very quiet Electric Light in all 2L MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, INTERLAKEN. HOTEL BEAU SITE CLOSE TO CENTRAL STATION. Splendid View. Electric Light. Large Garden. TERMS JlIOI)ERA TE. INTERLAKEN. ISCHL (AUSTRIA). (sumamnncun) Grand Hotel HOTEh convenes KREUZ. Facing the Imperinl Villa. Most favoumhly H t 1. M éthpOle. Fred. EDLIHIS’EI‘ER? groprietor INatumlized English Snipe >2}. KISSINGEN, SPA. HOTEL DIE-'- BUSSIIEE. Completely Reconstructed and Renewed. English and American Residence. Electric Light in every room. Electric Lift. Excellent Sanitary Arrangements. Baths. Large Garden. Fine Open Situation opposite the Springs and Kur Garden. 140 Rooms. KISSINGEN, SPA. HOTEL VICTORIA 86 KAISERHOF. FIRST-CLASS IIOTEL. Unrivztlled for its open situation—opposite the Kurgnrden and Springs. All modern comfort and snnitnry arrangements. Electric Light and Lift. Beautiful own Garden. 200 Rooms and Salons. G. LIEBSCHER, Proprietor. KONIGSWINTHERV (Petersberg), Rhine. HOTEL ON THE PETERSBERG One of the most beautiful moimtains of the Siebengebirge. Entirely new building and every comfort. Airy lodging-rooms and Saloons wi 11 a fine view, large dining and restsuvunt rooms. Large plateau with forest and parks. and beautiful shady promenades. Magnificent views in great. r variety than from any other point of the Seven Mountains. Every Wednesday, Military Free Concert. Table d'llote at 1.15 o‘clock ; Dinners and Suppers at any hour. Acknowledged good cuisine and choice wines. Post and Telegraph in the hanse. Wwe. PETER JOS. NELLES. Address er letlers and telegrams: Nelles. Petersberg (Rhine). Communication with Kiiiligswinter directly by a. Cog-wheel Railway. Corresponds with all trains of the State Railway and Steamers. KREUZNACH. HOTE L ORAN l E N HOP (First-class). I‘l-NEST Situation in its own extensive grounds; a well known and extensively patronked Establishment. Visited by Royalty. Every English comfort. Electric Light. Lilt. Lawn Tennis. Conversation, Reading and Billiard Rooms. Mineral Baths. MODERATE CHARGES. H. D. ALTEN (formerly at Meurice's, Paris). MURRAY’S HANDBOOK OF NORWAY. CHRISTIANIA, BERGEN, TRONDHJEM, THE FJELDS & FJORDS. With special information for Fishermen and Cyclists. By T.‘1VTIOHELL, O.B., H.B.M. Consul-General for Norway. 13 Maps and Plans. 9th Edition. 73. 6d. 1 901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 KOPENHAGEN. HOTEL KfiNIG B you DANEMARK. FIRST—CLASS HOTEL. With 100 elegantly fumished Rooms and Saloons from 2 Kr. upwards. Preferred by the travelling public because 0?" its central and open location, overlooking the King's Square. In the Hotel, large, newly furnished. only VIENNA CAFE, with Restaurant and Con- i‘ectloner’s Shop—in Summer with Tables and chairs in the open air. Large selection of German, French and English Newspapers. German Waiters. Moderate Prices. Electric Light. Litt. Table d’hote at 4 o’clock. Sample Rooms for travelling Salesman. Latest Sanitary Appliances. Hotel Omnibus at the Railroad Depot. R. KLfi M. Proprietor. LUCERNE. Hotel Sniweizemni a“ Hutelmlgememui. FIRST - CLASS HOTELS. IN THE BEST SITUATION ON THE LAKE AND PROMENADE. 6 o o B I: I) 8. Private Bath Rooms. Lift and Electric Light in both Hotels. ARRANGEMENT EN PENSION WITH PROTRACTED STAY (EXCLUSIVE OF JULY AND AUGUST), SCHWEIZERHOF OPEN ALL THE YEAR. H’ITII GOOD H'ARMING SYSTEJI. Proprietors: HAUSER BROTHERS. ‘26 MURRA Y’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. M33: LAUSANNE (Switzerland). GRAND HOTEL lllGllE-MONT. IRflT-CLASS HOTEL. Splendidly situated. . Large gardens. Beautiful ‘view. Lit Baths. Electric Light. Reduced pensionprices ‘ during the winter season. Write for tziritl’zmd illustrated pamphlet. post free. .._. '» 'J LIBON' BRAGANZA HOTEL. THIS FIRST‘CLASS “'ell-knonn FAMILY HOTEL, lately renovated by the Royal House of Brogan-m, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, VICTOR C. SASsErri. is highly recommendable for its large, airy. and comfortable .\;art.n1e1.ts. commanding the most extensive and picturesque views of the River 'l‘agus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior Cuisine and carefully selected Win 8. LISBON. LUCERNE. HOTEL DURAND118113.Q 1 e111'>. l‘utronised by English OSCAR CORNUT. Proprietor. 111111 Alllel'lcau ‘ 1'1“” F. BAZZARO. MAY EN C E. HORN’S HOTEL “PFALZERHOF.” OPENED 1862. Closuto 1111:(‘1:1111‘11111111111'111‘ 31111101111111 1111' from the Landing l’lzicc. livery Modern(1111111011. )101lt:1':11.c’l‘1'1'1111~'. 1121\1-1'111'111 Accounnodntion. (‘1'.1111'111 110111111111. 11211-1'11'11' Light. Elootric Lift. Electric .-\l:u'um Clocks. ’1‘1111-111'n1ns." 1’1':11'/1'1‘1111I'. 31:11'1'111'1'." Tolonhono. No. 101‘. J. A. HORN, Prop. 28 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MENTON E. GRAND HOTEL DE VENISE. ASCENSEUR. LIFT. FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH HOUSE, in a large garden, full south. far from the sen. Magnificent New Hall. Winter Garden. Salon South Aspect. Luncheon and Dinner served at separate tables. J. S OMAZZI , Proprietor. M E RA N . SOUTH TYROL MERAN GRAND HOTEL MERANERHOF. Most Fashionable House. Unique Position—in a Large Park. Opposite the Kin-house and Promenades. Large New Hall. FROM SEPTEMBER T0 JUNE. Carriages for Sulden, Trufoi, Helviu, lnul Eugmline. MEYRINGEN. HOTEL MEYRINGERHOF. _ I'm“ J11" Ides fr on: the Station. Finest Second-class Hotel. \V ell situated on a corner of the picturesque “ Kirchgusse. Beautifd Shady Garden. Arrangements for Pension from 3 days. Q111te 111 English home. E. BAUD- RISOLD, Proprietor. Formerly Hotel Sauvuge. Fouudel 11nd pliucipal donor of the F uglish Cl1u1cl1. \ley ringeu. MILAN . HOTEL EUROPE- CORSO VITTORIO EM. Central, with ‘ ieW Of the C11thod1 111 \1 1th quiet rooms 1111i11g the (111111011 Select Familv Hotel. E\ my Modern Co1111‘o1t. L. BERTOLI IVI (1‘01 me1' 13 at S1111 Remo). 200 Rooms and Salons. SEASON In Su mmer .' MILAN. I-IO'I'ZEEI- CAVOUR. PLACE CAVOUR, just opposite the Public Gardens. FIRST—CL ASS HOTELwith every Modem Comfort. Lift. Electric Light.“ iuter Garden. Public Rooms Railway Office. Excellent Table d’HOte.Mode1ate Charges. ’lhe Situation is perfectly quiet. M I LAN. BELLINI’S HOTEL TERMINUS Real English Hotel, near the Station. Heated tl1roug.out.Mode1ate Chmges. Hotel Coupons accepted. Po1te1' meets t111i11s. Garden. Electric Light. Lift. F. BELLINI, Proprietor. EMANUEL SUARDI, Proprietor. Lift. — MILAN. —- Lift. HOTEL DE ROBIE. NORSO VITTORIO BMANL'ELE. Full ’ South Splendid \i1\\ 111 the “1101110. Highh Incommemled fu1 its 101111011 111111 Modn' ate T11'111s.T-11hle d Hots. Restaurant. Pension El1ctri1 Light. Ste am He: Hing. BORELLA BROTHERS. M URRAY’S HANDBOOK OF MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS, The Coasts of Africa, Spain, Italy, Dalmatia, Greece, 1’ AYE Alli, K.C.M.G In 2 Parts. Asia Minor, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Malta, The Balearic Islands, Crete, Rhodes, Cyprus, &c. ,late 11.13.31. Consul-General for Algeria and Tunis. and Plans. Edite-l by Col. Sir R. LAMBERT With 81 Maps 218. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 MOSCOW. HOTEL SLAVIANSKY BAZAR. The Largest First-class Hotel in this Town. SPLENDID RESTAURANT, READING AND BATH ROOMS. FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS. A LL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Omnibus. Interpreters to all Railway Stations. Telephone, Post and Telegraph Offices in the House. MOSCOW, RUSSIA. I-IO'I'EI. BERLIN- FIRST-(‘LASS 150 BEDS. ..._ ELECTRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM. Highly recommended to English and American Tourists. English-speaking Guides. This large and well-known .Ilotel, situated in the best, and healthiest part. nczu‘ the Kremlin and :lllme-es 0) Inform“. Entirely renewed and enlarged. First-class Aeeummmlation for Families :uu Gentlemen. linth Rooms on every floor. Latest English Sanitary Installation. Sitting. Bed. ("Ill Bath-Room Suites. Splendid Restaurant. Grill Room. Excellent French Cuisine. Reading, Ihllmnl, Smoking, and Drawing Rooms. Garden. Hotel Carriages meet all Trains. Telegraphic .uldmss: “ Hotel Berlin. Moscow." XAVIER CLAUSEN, Proprietor (Swiss). 30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MUNICH. HOTEL BAYERISCHER HOF. Bavarian. Hotel. Finest and most quioi situation on Promenade platz in the centre of the town and in proxima’ c \‘icinityof ull places of interest. Entirclv renewed. Every Home Comfort. Moderate Charges. Winter Garden. American Bar. Lifts. Electric Light. Central Heating. II. VOLKHARDT, Proprietor. M U N IC H . HOTEL BBIGESEOI‘- In the centre of the town. amidst the best Promenades. Elegant Rooms from 2 Marks upward. Renowned as a good Family Hotel because of its quiet situation. LIFT. CENTRAL HEATING. ELECTRIC Licur. RESTAURANT. F' BLETSCEACHER‘ manage" MAXIMILIAX I‘LATZ. MUNICH, MAXIiIILIAX PLATZ. GRAND HOTEL GONTINENTAL. SPLENDID FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Situated in the most quiet and fashionable quarter. and near all objects of interest. All modern comforts and improvements. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. Electric Light. JIoderah- Charges. M. DIENER. Proprietor. NANTES. HOTEL DES VOYAGEU RS. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. incur the Theatre. Highly recommended for its general Comfort and Moderate Charges. Excellent Cuisine. Telephone. English spoken. Electric Light. Baths. G. CRETAUX, Proprietor. NAPLES- 200 Feet above Sea- Level. =2 Healthiest and most beautiful situation ; close to railway stations for San Martino (funicular), and for Pozzuoli and Raise; especially convenient for sightseeing. An English House. Recommended to English and American Visitors. Tariii‘ and Electric Light in every room. Lift. Fixed charges, always including Baths in the Rooms, Light and attendance. NAPLES. THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL. Open all the year round. Quid Parthenope (New Embankment). Splendid situation— full South. Close to the Public Garden and the centre of the town, with magnificent view of the Bay and Vesuvius. Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light. Telegraph and Post Office Every kind of bath. Moderate charges. Pension 8 to 12 Francs. R. HEEL-ER, Proprietor. 1901 . MURRAY S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 3'1 NAPLES. HOTEII BRISTOL. The Leading House and most complete of modern Hotels de Luxe. Entirely and sumptuously re—constructed. Bath—rooms adjoining each apartment. New Restaurant. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Winter Garden. Lavatorics. Newest and latest sanitary improvements. The highest and healthiest situation. Unique for Panoramic View. Unequalled accommodation for real comfort. NAPLES. HOTEL DE LONDRE S. FIRST - CLASS. In the healthiest and most central position. Near the Landing Pier. Splendid views of the Gulf and Vesuvius. Lift. Baths. Caln‘i‘ére. Newly Furnished. Perfect Drainage. Cook’s Coupons accepted. D ELVITTO, POG GI ANI, C A M PIOX E, Proprietors. BAD—NAUHEIM. P .A. R K II 0 T E: L. WELL RECOMMENDED. F1 RS T— CL .4 SS HO USE. Suitable for Families. Close to the Drinking Wells, Baths. and Band Stand. Adjoining Park on three sides. Electric Light. Lift. NERVI. , HOTEL VICTORI A. MURRAY 8 HANDBOOK Near the Sea and Railway Station. 15 Minutes 0F ALGER'A AND TUNIS- from Genoa. Stopping place for all express trains. . . , Patrnnisml by 1].“. the Queen of Portugal, and By COL S” LAMIWKT PL“ FAIR: K.C.1W.G., H Exc. the Mnrschellvon Moltke. PensiunfromB L. I{.B.M. Consul-Gen. fo~- Algeria and Tunis. HYDRAULIC LIFT. FIFTH EDITION. MODERN HEATING APPARATUS. Numerous Maps and Plans, 108. 6d. N E U C H AT E L. GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. Mr. ALBERT ELSKES, Proprietor. First-class Hotel. Magnifieently situated on the Border 01' the Lake. Commanding splendid Views of the Panorama of the Alps. Litt. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Garden. PENSION PRICES ALL THE YEAR ROUND. N.B.—Besldes the Evening Train (direct) a Day TIaiII is I‘uuni. g haw?!" Neuchntel and Paris, and vice vars". TRAI- HEATING THROUGHOUT. NEUHAUSEN, SWITZERLAND. ‘ N v " FALLS or THE RHlNE. . 7 "f—fh.’l ,,,,,,, FIRST-CLASS with Grand View of the Falls. FINE PARK & GARDENS. LAVVX TENXIS. A Charming and healthy . . . Summer Resort, Specially Recommended for AFTER cums. '- Special arrangements for protracted stay. ENGLISH CHURCH. NUREM BERG. . (3- II O-'.'I'.' E I. - ON THE BIG]! T SIDE OF THE STATION. NO BUS REQUIRED. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. In finest and best situation of town, with a nice front garden. Close to the German Museum and all the principal sights. Lift. Central Heating. Electric Light. Baths on each floor. All Sanitary Improvements. Moderate Terms. Pension the Whole vear. CARL SCHNERR. Pronvieton. 32 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADV ERTISER. May. NUREM BERG. GOLDEN EAGLE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE. Newly rebuilt. 200 Beds. Most central and best position. Specially patronised by English and Americans. Arrangements made. Baths. Electric Light and central Heating in Corridors and every Room. Lift. Omnibus meets all trains. Under the personal management of the Proprietor, WILLY SCHLENK. ODESSA. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OF HOTEL BRISTOL. Central Italy and Florence QUITE NEW FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. TUSCANY. Lift. Electric Light. UMBRIA, THE MARSHER. AT. FIRST ‘ CLASS RESTAURANT. \Vith ‘24 Maps and Plans. 93. 12th Edition. OSTEND. GREAT OCEAN HOTEL. Enlarged and Improved. Splendid Garden. FIRST-CLASS AND MOST FASH/ONABLE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT. UNRIVALLED FOR THEIR SlTl'ATION. BATH Rooms. Facing NM and Baths. Highly Rrwmnu’mird. Lift. Electric Light. OSTEN D. THE ALE KENDRA. MOST F.-lSHION.-lBLE PRU] TE FAMILY HOTEL. FACING "rm: SEA. CLOSE TO Tm: KI'RSAAL. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. PALERMO. “VILLA lGlEA” GRAND HOTEL Built and Furnished according 2‘0 the ”10st modern and perfect sanitary arrangcnmzts. THE BEST AND HEALTHIEST SITUATION. 250 BED AND PRIVATE AND PUBLIC BATHROOMS SITTING ROOMS. 0N EVERY FLOOR. French Cuisine. Lawn Tennis. American Bar. STANDS IN THE )[IDST OF ITS O\VN ENORMOUS PARK. A. PACHLER. Manager (formerly Hotel Continental. Paris). PARIS. HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES. Universally Reputed. 22, AVENUE DE L’OPERA. ONE OF THE MOST COMFORTABLE HOTELS IN PARIS. Entirely Renewed. Lilt. Electric Light in every Room. HEATED THROUGHOUT. NEW AND PERFECT SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS. Highly recommended to English and American Travellers. MODERATE CHARGES. Manager: W. EHRENTRAUT. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 PARIS. IIIIJUDIEJLIESIEIQIJIESIIJIE 39, Avenue de l’Opera, 39. FINEST SITUATION IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL. First-rate Restaurant and Table d’Hote. Reading and Smoking Rooms. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. The Entrance Hall, Staircases, and Corridors are heated. Arrangements for the Winter Season. Telephone. Electric Light throughout. In the Paris “Baedeker” the name of the Proprietor, L. HAUSER, is particularly mentioned. PKRAME . Near St. Mala (France)_—The best Sand Shore on the Coasts of Brittany, surrounded by charming panorama, picturesque sites, and splendid views ; sweet and very salubrious dim/ate. GRAND HOTEL DE PARAME. SITUATED on the very Shore, near the Casino and Bathing Establishment. First~class Hotel, much frequented by the best English Families. Beautiful Dining Room. Restaurant. Saloon. Lawn Tennis. Hot Baths and Telegraph in the House. Very large Garden. Great Comfort and Moderate Charges. Very advantageous conditions in July and Septemher. Omnibus of the Hotel to all trains and steamers. RIGUE'LLE and GRAJON, Proprietors. PAU. HOTEL DE FRANCE. HIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Place Royale, com- mands the most splendid View of the whole chain of the Pyrenees, and is adjoining to the English Club. Improved Lift. Bath and Smoking Rooms. GARDEREs Faisal-:8, Proprietors. PO ITI ERS. GRAND HOTEL. DE FRANCE." First-class, and recommended to Families and Tourists for its comfort and good manage- ment. The most central of the Town, near the Hotel de Ville, Prefecture, Telegraph and Post Office, Museum, Historical Monuments, and Promenades. Speciality of Fowls and truffled Pfités of all sorts. Carriages for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel. ROBLIN-BOUCEARDEAU, Proprietor. PRAGUE. I—IOTZEI. VICTORIA. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Electric Light in all Rooms. English Church Service in the Hotel. OTTO WELZER, Proprietor. ROME. thkNI)PHTTEHJEHJ(QUlRlNAdu Highly reputed and fashionable FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the VIA NAZIONALE (the finest street of Rome), in the healthiest and most elevated part of the Eternal City. Ex’cry Modern Comfort and Luxury. Electric Light and American Steam iators in every Room. Grand Hall. Perfect Sanitation. Elegant French Restaurant. BUCHER-DURRER, Proprietor and Manager. BRANCII HOUSES: GD. HOTEL MEDITERRANEE, Pegli. HOTEL EUROPE in Lucerne. HOTEL STANSERHORN, near Luceme. GRAND HOTEL and HOTEL EULER. Bale. PARK HOTEL BURGEN STOCK, near Lucerne. D 84 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. M a y, ROME HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. Vial ‘BOCCA di LEOIVE. This Hotel is conveniently, healthily, and quietly situated in the centre of the City, between the Corso and the Piazza di Spagna. in the most aristocratic quarter of Rome. It offers every possible advantage. and Visitors may rely upon every English comfort. Charges Moderate. Special Arrangements for a Long Term. Open the Whole year. Most frequented by English. Particular attention is paid to the Cooking and Service. Lift. Electric Light in all the Rooms, and Steam Heating through- - out. Latest English Sanitary Arrangements. Entirely refumished. H. SILBNZL Proprietor. SAVOYROMEHOTEL (Late Hotel Blame/ll). 15, VlA LUDOVlSl. MODERATE CHARGES. Fashionable First—ohms Family Hotel situated in the healthiest and. highest part of Rome, near the gardens and opposite Queen Margherita’s Residence. Provided with all Modern Comfort. Electric Light. Bath Rooms. Most Perfect English Sanitary Arrangements. Omnibus meets all the trains. Special arrangements for Families. T. LENGYEL. Proprietor and Manager. ROME. I: D I: N 1-]: O 'I' I: In. Highest Position in Rome. SITUATED ON THE PINOIAN HILL. COMMANDING FINE VIEW OVER ROME AND CAMPAGNA. Electric Light in Every Room. Tariff and Plan on Application. ENGLISH llo'l‘EL. SAME MANAGEMENT,EDEN HOUSE LUGERNE FIRST—CLASS FAMILY HOUSE IN THE BEST SITUATION. ON THE ELECTRIC TRAN: LINE. MODERN COMFORT. OPEN ALI. rm; YEAR. FRANZ NISTELWICK. Proprietor. ROhflE. CONTINENTAL 300 Rooms- HOTEL. All Modern Comforts. Open all the Year. P. LUGANI, Proprietor. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 ROME. HOTEL MOLARO. 56, VIA GREGORIANA (NeartothePincio). rum. sou'rI-l. Healthieet Situation in Town, and very Central. 01d Reputation for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. HYDRAULIC LIFT. Winter Garden. Electric Light and Calniféte in all the Rooms. ROME. GRAND HOTEL MARINI. First-class. Unrivalled for its healthy, quiet, and central situation. Full South. Lift. Electric Light in every Room. (OPEN ALL THE YEAR.) EUGENE MARINI, Proprietor. ROM E. , HOTEL VICTORIA (gunmen House», MURRAY 3 HANDBGOK OF Via Due Jlm‘wglli tl’zuzza (I7. Snug/nub. ‘E‘V Laige Dini 111; {11111 Sitting: Rooms. L Londlou ‘ i‘im I'es' 11111]"\'t-11i«)l'11'l" tukcll ROME AND THE BAMPAGNA' in.( 1mm lift. 01111111112 1-11an 6 7 ' ' r . . , 111118 shillings 1 .er d: 1y E kctlio Light in v:\ cry 16th Edltlmgmsv‘nitsgg‘ 3:0,?" and Plans. 10011) H W ALI )TIIIEI E , Aeu‘ I’i‘wn‘icfor. RIGI'SGHEIDEGG. HOTEL 81 PENSION. Mountain Season— Air Cure. SWITZERLAND. 15111 June—15m member. Iron-Water Spring Especially for Stomachic Disorders. Cold Water T1 eatment and latest. Electra-Therapathy. Beautifully quiet. for a Holiday; _ Level Out-door Terrace and Shady Renowned Physician. Hydropathy. ~ ”Poet. Tile-phone, 1.11.1 dwele’glaph. J iiet- _ . A11 :Lngements. Pension from 8 fr9.u1v9a Br. STIERLIN- HAUSER. P1,.om’letor D i 36 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ROUEN. HOTEL DE LA POSTE. Lift. Electric Light throughout. Steam Heating. Situated opposite. the Post Office in the finest Central part of the Town. Magnificent Garden in front of the Hotel. Reading, Music, and “'riting Saloons. English Newspapers. English and German spoken. Rooms from 3 frs.; Breakfast. 1 fr. 50 c. ; Lunch, 2 frs. 50 c. ; Dinner, 3 f5. 50 c. lapr. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL de PARIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL situated on the Quay. The most beautiful situation in the Town. Close to the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the Landing Stages of the Havre Steamers. This Hotel has been newly furnished. and now ofi'ers equally as comfortable accommodation as the Largest Hotels, but with more moderate terms. Telephone 556. Electric Light. English and German Spoken. Member of the Touring Club. Dark Room for Photographers. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. Situated in the centre of the Town, and midst the principal monuments. 114 Rooms, ail lighted by electricity, from 2 Francs. 2 Bath Rooms. Garden. Good Table d‘HGte. Dejeuner 1.50 fr., llejeuucr a la lourchette 2.50 fr.. Dinner 3 fr. Restaurant 5. la carte. Telephone. Dark Room for Photographers. English spoken. GRAND HUTEiWfii‘ANGLETERRE The Grand Hotel d’Angleterre has Lifts and Baths. Splendid Summer Terrace Restaurant. It is situated on the Count Boieldieu, and has from its windows the iimst View on the Seine. Telephone. All rooms lighted by electricity. Moderate Terms. ROYAT-LES—BAINS. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. First-class Hotel. Electric Lift and Light. Large Garden with Terrace, opposite the Park. Open 15th May to 15th October. FOI'R-NIER, Proprietor. S A L Z B U R G. HOTEL BRISTOL SITUATED IN THE MOST FASHIONABLE PART OF THE ’l‘OIVX. FACING THE THEATRF AND THE RENOWNED MIIHBE]. (HRDEN. COMBINES LUXURY “'ITH COMFORT OF fiIIOME. Rooms and Suites of Apartments (connected with Bath-room) commanding Splendid View over the Town and surrounding mountains. STATE RAILWAY OFFICE IN THE HOTEL. ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. Hor AND COLD \VATER IN EACH noon. OMXIBUS mums ALL TRAINS. R. FLEISCHMANN, Proprietor. SAN REMO. GRAND HOTEL ROYAL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Finest and Best Situation. Lift. Electric Light. Largest Garden. Restaurant de Luxe. Concerts and Balls. M. BERTOLINI, Proprietor. (Also Proprietor of the HGtel Royal Courmayeur and Aosta.) 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 '11. 11 , .. ‘1""‘~..‘.1:1;" SAN REMO. THE .SAVOY HOTEL. OPENED J‘LRU \RY.1900. New P-1l1tial Building Finest site in most fashionable (111111111111Pe1feetly sholto1'1'11.L11x111'ious \egetation.Extensi1.c 1.11'\\s.Lleot110 Liulit 11111011th1— out Strum Ho Hing and 1 entila’tion. I) 11‘ L )[ XIIIVI. 1mm M101. SAN REMO. HOTEL DE ROME. Be intifnlly situated, 111111 11 11110'e Garden and every comfort. The \111it:11")v_.11' i'angcmcnts are 1111 11111116 11) English 01101116815. Elev t1" 1c 11f 1.1t Lift. Bath. Pension fIOIIl S 11111. 1108\11. 1’ upu'zlm'. SCHWALBACH. Hotel Victoria. THE BEST [SITUATED HOTEL AT SCHWALBACH. The nearest to the Baths, &c. SEA-SIDE RESORT, SGHEYENINGEN (On the North Sea), HOLLAN D. Through Services from the Principal Continental Centres to Scheveningen and all over Holland. 1901. Summer Season. 1901. KURHAUS. Kursaal and Terrace accommodating 8000 Visitors. Two Concerts daily by the ram '11 mod Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra. HOTEL KURHAUS. The 11 ziding house on the B13211 h In Ioctric Light. \ewest Comf01t. Stigler' s Lilt. 2011 13011100an and I’rixate Sitting-moms with Inleonies liming the Sea. Reduced P1111 5' 10110110111523 in June 11nd Soy/(11111101: Grand 1101t1111111nt in the Hotel Ku1h11us High— (111:5 F1 ench Unisi11e.Choicest \V 1111: \IEW ESTABLISHMEVTS. RESTAURANT de la PLAGE. BOULEVARD CANTINA. BOULEVARD CAFE and TEA ROOM. All on the M111 me Promenade and in connm Iion with the KLII II KUS 11nd HOTEL KURHAUS. English-American Bar. Vienna. Café. Café Concert. 190 Opening of the NEW PIER (112121.331) Opening of the PIER PAVILION “333" For particulars. please apply to the MANAGER OF HOTEL KURHAUS. N SIENNE, ITALY. STUTTGART. ORA D HOTEL CONTINENTAL HOTEL ROYAL El t Q’NDhtPENSION' Opposite Ohe station. 100 ekgantly fur- CC “C 1g nished rooms fiom M. 2upwards Elemwr. Every Modem Comfort. Cential Healing EleLtric Light ALFRED ZAZZERA.Propriet01. A. BANZHAF. Proprietor. 33 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Ma)" SORRENTO, BAY OF NAPLES. GRAND HOTEL VIGTORIA. FIRST-CLASS AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL. Splendid View of the Bay and Mount Vesuvius. Electric Light throughout. Lawn Tennis. The only Hotel having an E/eVator from the Landing-place up to the Hotel. 0. FIORENTINO, Proprietor. STOCKHOLM. GRAND HOTEL Largest and finest Hotel in Scandinavia. S‘IM‘I‘H/l‘l'l' run? (In?! studio”. Wit/'4 mag/HUM 1;." (‘11 I" Q” {In part and flu Jl'ahm’ Lake. OPPOSITE THE ROYAL PALACE. Lately completely rebuilt and newly furnished with all modern comforts. LARGE AND ELEGANT DINING-ROOM, CAPE IN INDIAN STYLE. AMERICAN BAR. DRAWING. READING, SMOKING AND BILLIARD-ROOMS. ALL ll'l'I'H DELIGHTI’Z'I. VIEW OF THE LAKE. Halls and separate Saloons for large and small Dinner Parties. Best French and Swedish Cuisine. Rich famous Stock of excellent Wines. PASSENGER AND LYUGAUE LIFTS AT ANY TIME. DAY 0R NIGHT. .Bulhrooms on ('m‘y Flour. Barbrr and Hairculfing/ Salim/1. Larger and smaller Suites of Apartments. consisiin;r of Sitting-room, Bed- room, Bath an-l Toilet Room, at moderate prices. Telephone in each room. MALMO. STOCKHOLM. HOTEI: HORN HOTEL HORN First- class. 1 irst- (lass. EVERY COMFORT OF MODERN TIMES. MODERATE TERMS. STRASBOURG. HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE PARIS. UNIVERSALLY REPUTED Il\l)R.'\ll ll} I.‘Il~'l ELEV “llil LIGHT TllliOUGllOl ".1 UNDER \‘EW MAN \GENENT. The largcsl a: d most comfoutululr llutel In Straslmmg nilli all modern cumfuri. Situated in the finest pmt of th. mun near the Milan thedml mul l'r.uluumile l‘alrouised by RU)I\II, and highly recommendul to F uglisli and Ammium Families and Gentlemen. .M ATHIS, Di] i (In) Propr Mar. 1901. MURRAY ’8 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 SPA. SPA-Oldest, finest, and most ellicacious Mineral ferruginous Waters-SPA llllllil [l8 llalllllfl 811/", Senior, Proprietor. The Largest First-class Hotel IN THE CENTRE AND MOST SALUBRIOUS PART OF THE TOWN. ‘ Beautiful Park, with furnished i Villas and Cottages in the '2 » . Private Grounds of the Hotel. ' BATIIS. Drawing, Writing and Billiard Rooms. lilei-lrii: Light throughout. GRAND HOTEEPADE L’EilMPE. FIRST—OLA SS 1101' EL. Electric Light. Highly Recommended. HENRARD-RICIIARD, Proprietor. SPA. HOTEL BELLE YUE. Magnificent Situation on the Promenade, near the Royal Palace and Bath Establishment. Large Garden, communicating with a First-class Park. “96”“: Light- ROUMA, Proprietor. ST. PETERSBURG. VJjHIS well-known HU'IEL has the best situation in St. Pctersburg. [c has lately been entirely renovated and affords First-class Accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. Exa-llent Kitchen and ('ellar. Reading Room with English and American Newspapers. Electric Light Baths in the House. French, German and English spoken. Omnibus me [.9 all Trains and Steamers. Under English Management. Telegraphic Address: “ ANGLETERRE, PETERSBURG." TH. SCIlO’l"l‘E, .i/anager. 40 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ST. PETERSBURG. HOTEL DE FRANGE. Kept by E. RENAULT. EST situation in the Town, Great Morska'ia, right opposite the Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Nevski Prospect. Oldest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented, especially by English and Americans. Elegant Reading Room, with French, English, American, German, and Swedish Papers. Greatly to be recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuisine. Dinners 1 r. 50 k. and 31'. The charge for Apartments is from I; to 20 mnbles. All languages spoken. Warm and Cold Baths. Post and Telephone on the Premises. The English Guide, Bernard anke, highly com- mended. ‘j" The Hotel is recommended in Murray’s Handbook of Russia. The HOTEL BELLE VUE, opposite to HOTEL DE FRANCE, belongs to the same Proprietor. ST. PETERSBURG. RUE MICHEL a ST. PETERSBOURG. t o1'11e1' of tl1e3Ne1ski1P1'ospect and Michel Street. Yer) Central Position FIRST- (LASS HOTEL 300 Rooms, including 100 Apa11t111ents,with e\ e1'y modern i1npro1e111e11t and comfort. Omnibuses meet all mains and boats. Two Lifts.011.ly Hotel \\ 1th EleLt1ic Light. 1901. MURRAY ’5 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 STUTTGART. HOTEL MARQUARDT- Direct Entrance from the Railway Station. FINEST POSITION IN TOWN. SPLENOIO NEW BUILDING. FIRST-CLASS. 300 ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. ELEVATORS. Rooms from 2'70 Marks upwards. H. 8; o. MARQUARDT. SUTHERLANDSHIRE- THE SUTHERLAND HOTEL, L 1;. I R G, N. B. UNDER NEW DIANAGEMENT, AND REFURNISHED AND IMPROVED. This Hotel will now be found to be one of the best appointed and most comfortable in the North, while its situation renders it one of the most desirable holiday resorts in Scotland. Good fishing on several excellent lochs. Hotel ’Bus attends arrival and departure of all trains. Mail Coaches leave here daily for Lochinver, Lourie, and the West ; and every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday for Tongue. WILLIAM WALLACE, Proprietor. TAORM I NA (SICILY), ITALY. GRAND HOTEL SAN DOMENICO. V lHE ONLY FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH FAMILY HOTEL. Situated Southwurd, with Garden, Terraces, Lawn Tennis, Winter Garden. Ancient Historical convent, enjoying a full unrivalled view of the Panorama. Situated in the finest. and most. select. part of Taormina. Views of Etna. and the Ionian Sea. French Cooking. Most comfortable. Arrange- ment for prolonged stay. Quite near the Post and Telegraph Olfices. TOURS. _—.—— GRAND HOTEL DE L’UNIVERS. ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE STATION. EUROPEAN REPUT ATION. Highlyrecommended in all the French and Foreign Guide Books. 42 V MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, y TOURS. GRAND HOTEL DE BORDEAUX. Proprietor, GLOVIS DELIGNOU. Patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and the European Courts. IN FRONT OF THE STATION AND UPON THE BOULEVARD. SPLENDID APARTMENTS. 0 BLACK FOREST. TRIBERG. 715 Metres above the Sea. 0 HOTEL WEHRLE. P. "'EIIRLE, Proprietor. Best situation, near the Waterfalls, for a. long time well known as HOTEL z. “ OCHSEN.” Every English comfort. Baths. Park Garth-n. Electric Light. Milk Cure. Omni‘ bus at the Station. Carriages. Moderate charges. Pension. Tole; h ne. Concerts in front of the Hotel. The proprietor gives best information for excurbions in the Black Forest. The Hotel Wehrle, not very large. but very comfortable, is highly recom- mended by German and foreign Guide Books. 0 GOOD TROUT FISHING. o TRIBERG. Centre of the Baden Black Forest Railway. First-class Climatic—Cure Station. Louis Bieringer’s BLieK FOREST HOTEL. 715 metres beyond the son. The only FIRST-CLASS HOUSE closo to the Wutort‘nl‘s and the Forest. Elevtric Light in all rooms. Sale of Tickets for the Railway, and Luggage booked in the hotel. Omnibus at every trnin. Fine Carriages for Excursions. Rich international llomling Saloon. Opening: of the Season. lst May. The beautiful. qniot position of tho hotel—40 metros beyond the town. with an unhindered \ievv over the niounvnins—roliors :l very agreeable stay. Trout Fishing. Prospectus. Branch business: BADENWEILER HOTEL, SUMMERS. TURIN. Iilflllll Hfllfll Tlfllflllflllfl Bl fl’flflfllfllflllfl. In View of the Central Station, Rue de Rome. First-class House in every respect. Very moderate charges. Railway Booking Office in the Hotel. Hydraulic Lift. Electric light throughout. Heated hy hot—air stoves. A. BAGLlUX l, Proprietor. Branch House—Grand Hotel d’ltalie, Bologna. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK OF NORTH ITALY & VENICE, Turin, Milan. The Italian Lakes, Verona, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Ravenna, Parma. Modena, Genoa. &c. \\'ith 34 Maps and Plans. 108. 16.h Edition. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 -VENIOE. Hotel d’ltelle Bauer. Near St. Mark’s Square. 0n the Grand Canal. Facing the Church of 8:. Maria Salute. 250 ROOMS. ELECTRXC LIGHT. ; Post Office in the Hotel. GRAND RESTAURANT BAUER GRUNWALI.: Rendezvous of the Best Society. J. GRUNWALD, Sen., Proprietor. v I o H Y. GRAND HOTEL DU PARC ' and GRAND HOTEL. THE LARGEST AND MUST COMFORTABLE IN VIGHY. A FIBRE—CLASS HOTEL, Situated in the Park, facing she Batihs. '3 Springs and Casino. 7 pRIVHTE PHVIDION FOR FHmImEs.§ Hydrepethic Installation. Electric Light. Lllt. G ERMOT, Proprietor. HANDBOOK or SOUTH ITALY. ! Paul 1.: NAPLES. l’OMPEII; SORRENTO; CAPRI; AMALFI, l’AGSTL'M, 'l‘AliAN'I‘O, BARI; BRINDISL &c. \Vich 10 Maps mud l’luns. Us. 91']: Edition. 12111 11.: SIL‘ILY. PALERMO, SYRACUSE, 3m. \Vith 9 Maps and Plans. (is. 9th Edition. 44 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. V I C H Y- ON THE 1 ON THE PARK PARK EAcINc , {at OPPOSITE THE '. 4 KIOSU E CASINO. ‘ OF MUSIC 4" Q) A r \> «Q I“ 7 e" e 5% <9 ‘3" § 5’ ‘ $9 ' {3s POST (L- ’\ TELE- 0 V GRAPH {’Ei AD- 7 HE y V ‘ x J U I .\'1 KG. WHOLE _ , L a ' . YEAR. ‘ " ‘ , » t ' .- ' TELEPHONE GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS & CONTINENTAL. _ ROUBEAU 8L COLLET, Proprietors. Entirely Tie-arranged and considerably Enlarged. Is the mOst elegant, comfortable and best situated in Vichy, and the only one frequented by the Royal Family of England. A part of the Hotel is arranged and warmed specially for the winter season. It is the only Hotel at Vichy having a general hygienic installation. Lift. Pension from 12fr. per day. VIENNA. GRAND HOTEL, I. KARNTHNERRING, 9. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Situated in the finest and most fashionable part of the City, on the Ringstrasse, Corso side, near the Imperial Opera, the new Museums. Highly recommended for moderate charges combined With all modern comfort; specially patronized by English and American families. 300 elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms, Magnificent lofty and richly decorated Dining and Reading Rooms, Smoking and Ladies Drawing Rooms. The prices of the rooms are inclusive of electric light and attendance. Tariff in every Room. Excellent Cooking; Luncheons and Dinners at fixed prices or a la Carte. Lift until 12 pm. Baths. Telephone. Railway Ticket-Oflice and Hairdressing Saloon in the Hotel. A Concert in the Dining Room every day, beginning at 8.0 p.177. CENTRAL HEATING. Arrangements made With Families Wintering' in Vienna. Bureau and Cabin Booking Ofiice of the North German Lloyd in the Hotel. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45 VIENNA. HOTEL’KAISERIN ELISABETH CENTRE OF THE TOWN. Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light. Reading and Drawing Room. Baths. Telephone (inter-urban). Pension by arrangement. Exquisite Vienna and French Cuisine. “'INE DIRECT FROM “EIGENBESITZ STEINBERG" IN VOSLAU. FERDINAND HEGER, Proprietor. V I E N N A. HOTEL BELLE YUE. (Facing Franz Josef Railway Station—side of Dl‘pm‘fNTfl.) Old-renowned. Elegant and Largest Hotel. 100 good furnished rooms, and saloons from one florin. Electric Light and Service are not charged. Post, Telegraph and Telpehone (inter—urban) in Hotel. VIENNA. HOTEL HAMMERAND. - RENDEZVOUS OF ENGLISH AND AMERICAN DOCTORS. Lift. lVear the Hospitals. Electric Light. WIESBADEN. HOTEL QUISISANA. Unrivalled position—PARK STRASSE—a hundred steps from the Kurhouse. A BEAUTIFUL FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. ST The Only One in WIESBADE.’ on Elevated Ground. OFFERS HOME COMFORT 'ro ENGLISH ‘1. AMERICAN FAMILIES. LIFT. | ELECTRIC LIGHT. I GARDENS. SPLENDID MINERAL WATER BATHS- PENSION AT REASONABLE TERMS. Apply for Prospectus to the Proprietor, F. ROSER. WIESBADEN. HOTEL ROSE and BATI-IS. HIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with every modern comfort, is newly enlarged by a. splendid building, and situated in the finest and healthiest part or Wieshaden, opposite the Pro- menade. close to the Curehonse and Royal Theatre. Private Suites of Apartments consisting of Saloon, Bedroom, Toilet and Bath Room. In the Hotel is a beautiful new Bath House. with Baths supplied from the principal Spring—the Bockbrunnen, Most elegant Public Rooms, Lift, Electric Light, Steam Heating. Amusements made for a prolonged stay. H, HAEFFNER’ Proprietor. WIESBADEN. MURRAY’S HOTEL BELLE VUE. Beautifully situated, opposite the Park. Handb00k 0f HOIy Land, Well-known for its Comfort and Good Cuisine. Central Heating. Electric Light. ‘ v V Moderate Charges. Good Trout Fishing. SY$§;’2§1£&EEZ:§EaafiiOAféss‘c' Pension. VICTOR KLEEBLATT, Proprirlnr, 46 )IURRAY'S HANJBOOK ADVERTISER. May, WI LDBAD, BLACK FOREST. HOTEL KLUMPP HYDRAULIC LIFTS T0 EVERY FLOOR. THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with separate Breakfast, Reading, Lady’s and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Room. Large handsome Dining Saloon. An artificial garden over the river. Beautifully situated in connection with the Old and New Bath Buildings and Conversation House. Five minutes’ walk from the English Church, and in the imme- diate vicinity of the Park and Pump Room. “'ell known for its elegant and comfortable apartments. Good Cuisine and Wines, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as one of the best hotels on the Continent. Table d’hOte. Restaurant. Correspondents of principal Banking Houses of London, New York, &c., for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. OMNIBUS OF THE HOTEL MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FINE PRIVATE CARRIAGES. Capital Trout Fishing in Ilu- Rim-r Euz. LAWN TENNIS AND CILOQI'EI‘. Reduced Terms for Rooms in May and September. EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION. ZERMATT. GRAND HOTEL TERMINUS. WEST-CLASS IIUI‘I‘II. “3th exery n 0d rn CI infort. Baths. Electric Light. Restaurant. l‘ 'l‘ublc u'hfite. IiiIII. Ma. (‘41-. Itemlllhz and Drawing Rooms. Covered Vernndah. Guides. Cmrhgv-s and Mules at. the Ilutel. Coupons accepttd. Open from 15th May to 311th Outober. DOL—LAUBER, Proprietor. ZURICHfDOLDE 35%;? Finest situated Hotel in Zurich. .\'|»‘.\\'I.r \rl‘EXrD “'ITII LATEST lm-um miss rs or CUSIFHRT. Surroundoi by Magnificent Woods and Parks. . ‘ FINEST GOLF LINKS ON THE ‘ CONTINENT. . I I _J.n" at: Hui! (Lush. Tennis. Gulf. ‘ ’QEK nit run run“:— ~ ' .. “‘3‘ E. DEILMANN. Manager. MURRAYS Handbook of South Germany and Austria. 1‘.” L—Wnrtemberg. Bavarh. Austria. Hungary. Istria. and the Danube from Ulm w the Black Sea, \\'ltI134 Maps and Hans. 7x. M. 15th Edition. Part IL—The Tirol. Salzburg, Styria, and the Eastern Alps. With 7 Maps un‘II‘Ians. 0:. 15th Emmi-n. 1901. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 47 ZERMATT, SWITZERLAN D. VIEGE~ZERMHTT RHILUIHYS (3038 And Zermatt Gornergrat Electric (10,770 feet) NARROW GAUGE co G WHEEL RAILWAYS. Paaoaama Go @emeaosm Open from 15th May to alst October. Matterhorn, 14,700 feet. Mont Rosa, 15,200 feet. Goorner Grut, 10,260 foot. Those lines are the most interesting and picturesque in the World. The journey from Viege to Zormalt now only takes ‘21} hours and 1} hours from Zermatt to Gurnergrat ; formerly it was a 9 hours walk to Zermalt. Very mmfort-lble (animus. Spa-cial Saloon Carriages lo enabll- one to see the Grand Scenery along the line. For departure of the Trains see the Time Table. ZERMATT. Seiler’s Grand Hotels. HOTEL MONT ROSA. HOTEL MONT OERVIN. HOTEL ZERMATT. HOTEL RIFFELALP. HOTEL RIFFEL. HOTEL SOHWARZ SEE. Bufi'et at the Station. Doctor. Chemist. Baths. Moderate Prices. OPEN FROM 1ST MAY TO 30TH OCTOBER. 48 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1901. ‘5 DINNEFORD’S MAGNESIA. The best Remedy for Acidity of the Stomach, Heartburn, Headache, Gout and Indigestion; the Safest Aperient for Delicate Constitutions, Ladies, Children, and Infants. SOLD THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. MURRAY’S Pocket Handbook Travel Talk. ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN. and ITALIAN. (In Parallel Columns.) EIGHTEENTH EDIT/0N. With Special Section for Cyclists. 321110., 33. 6d. The Conversations supply every Modern Phrase likely to be used by Travellers at the Present Day. “ One of the most useful pocket companions.”—— Vanity Fair. "Shows the wanderer how to carry on conversation in all the essential arts of life in four tongues.”—Daily News. “A cyclist who can ascertain whether the road is ‘bumpy,’ or point out that his ‘nut’ is loose or his ‘tyre punctured,‘ may surely regard himself as equipped for every linguistic emergency.”—Guardian. “ The best of its kind, judiciously modernized.”—Athenwum. “ One of the most useful phrase books in existence.”—Queen. A Neat Convenient Book suitable for carrying in One's Pocket. London: EDW’ARD STANFORD, 12, 13, 14, Long Acre, \V.C. EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE (0339067714 MURRAY’S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS. HANDBOOK—ENVIRON S OF LONDON—Includlnga Circuit 20 Miles 10111111 the MetrépOds. 2 Parts. 5213. HANDBOOKé—EASTERN COUNTIES—CHELMSEOED, HARWICH, COL- - CHESTER, MALDON, CAMBRIDGE, LLY,NEWMAR-KET, B‘URY' ST.EDMUNDs,lPsw1CH, Wo<1DEEIDGE,FEL1x~Tow1-.,LOWEsTO'ET,N EWICH,YARMOUTH,CEOMEE,&<:. With 7 Maps and Plans. 128. . HANDBOOK SURREY—(Including ALDEESHOT)—KINGSTO\' ‘CROT- DON, REIGL5TE, GUILDFURD, DOEKING, 5BOXHILL, &c. W1tn 6 May. 63. HANDBOOKQ—isLE 0E WIGHT—RYDE, CowEs, VENTNOR, &c. With . 311 égtrotlEotOry Sketch of 1110 H13tory of the Island, by R313. PEOTHERO, M. A. Map. HANDBOQK—HAMPSHTRE~W1NCHE3TE1§FSOUTHAMPTON, va FOREST, PORTSMOUTH. With 7 Maps and P111113. 6:. HANBROOK—OXFORDSHIRE—AYLESBLNY HENLEY, OXFORD, BLEN- 1M; THE fHAMEs, &c. 13 Maps and 143113.68. , HANDBOOK—KLNT—CANTEEBUEY DOVER, RAMSGATE,ROOHESTE11, CHATHAM, &c. 7 Magi, 1110‘stly on the scale O5! 11; 1110)) to the mile. 7s.bd . HANDBOOK—SUSSEX—BEIOHTON CHIOHESTEE,WOETHING,HAsT1N1.s, LEwEs, AEUNDEL, etc". 7 Maps, mustly on the scale5 of fiinch to the mile. 63. HANDBOOK— DEVON— EXETER, ILFBAOOMBE, L1NT6N,S1DMOUTH, li-ANL1SH, IEIONMOUTH, PLYMOUTH, DEVONPOET, TORQUAY, 6212.12 Maps 11.1111 Plans. 73.611. HANDBOOK—CORNWALL—LAUNOESTON, PENZANOE, FALMOUTH, THE L12AED,_’LAND 5 END, No: 7 Maps and 11111115. (is. HANDBOOK—NORTH WALES—BANGOR, CAENAEVON, BEAUMARIS. ‘NOWDON, LLANEENIS, DOLOELLT, CADER lnms, CONWAY, &c. 5 Maps. 68. HANDBOOK—SOUTH IWALES—MONHOUTH, LLANDAFF, MERTHYR VALE OF NEATH, PEMBROKE, 0.1111111111311111, TENBY, SWANSEA, AND THE VVTE,&c. M,11p 6s. ‘ HANDBOOIv—DERBY NOTTS, LEICESTER, AND STAFFORD—— MATLOCK, BAKEwELL, CHATSWORTE, 'l HE PEAK. BUXTON, HARDWICK, Dov EDALE, ASHBONNE, SOUTHWELL, MANsExELD, RETEORD, BURTON, BELVOIN, Mo-LTON MO“ — » 131111, » WOLVENNAMPTON, LIOHEIl- 1.1), WALSALL. 1AM“ OETH, 6:12.12 Maps and. P1111515, mostly On the scale of a} incll to the 111119.93. H ANDBOOK— SHROPSHIRE AND CHESHIRE— SHREWSBURV‘, , LUD‘LOW, BRIDGNORTH, GSWESTRY, CHESTER, CREW ls, ALDERLEY, STOOKPONT, BINKENHEAD. 8ans and Plans. 68. 5, H \NDBOOK— LANCASHIRE—WAEEINGTON, BURY, VIANOHESTl—zm LIVERPOOL, BUENLEY, CLIrHEEOE, BOLTON, BLACKBURN, WIOAN, PRESTON, ROOHDALE, LANCASTER, SOUTHPOET, BLACKPOOL, &c. Map. 63. ANDBOOK—YORKSHIRE—DOVCAETER HULL, SELBY, BEVERLEY, SCARBOROUGH, WHITBY, HANEOGATE, BIPON, LEEDS, WAKEFIELD, BRADFORD, HALIFAX, HUDDEESHELD, SHEFFIELD, &c 12 Maps 9.1111 Plaxls.12s. ' H LINCOLN, STAMFORD SL1.\10R1),SPAL1)1NG, GAINSEOEOUGH, (11111131113 BOSTON, No. 4 Maps and Plans. June, 1901. 5* ' 5’ . _ 5 ' [Continued MURRAY’S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS—(qonfinuéd). HANDBOOK —,— DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND —.NEw- ' CASTLE, DARLINGTON, BISHOP AUCKLAND, STOCKTON, HARTLEI’OOL, SUNDERLAND, SHIELDS, Bnnwi’cx, TYNENOUIH, __ALNWIGK, &e. '5 Maps and Plans. -.103. HANDBOOKTJTHE LAKESIWESTMORELAND AND CUMBER- LAND—LANOASTER, .RU'RNES'S ABBEY, AMBLESIDE, KENDAL, .VVINDERMERE, CONISTON, \KESWICK, GRASMERE,"ULSWATER, ‘CARLISLE, COOKERMOUTH,’PENRITH, AppLEBN, age, 5»Maps. 6;. , - * . - - HANDBOOKfNORTHA’MPTON AND RU-TLAND. With Maps and Plans {arming the 2nd Editioifl. (lg-own Bvo. ‘ ' _ . , HANDBOOKSEHEREFORD AND WORCESTER—LEOMINSTER, Ross, ~ MALVERN, KiDDEBNflNSTERLDUDl‘EY, BROMSGROVE, EVE‘SHAM. 5 Maps. 53. HANDBOOK'V— HERTS; HUNTINGDON I AND BEDSaBEDFORD, HATFIELD, HUNTINGDON, LUTONrs'I'.‘ ALBANS, THING, WARE, WATFORD,’ &c. 10 Maps and Plans. 78. 6d, - , . , . ‘ HANDBOOK,_ GDOUGESTERSHIREe GLOUCESTER, ‘GNEDTENHAM, . TNWKESDURI', BRISTOL, Ale. 3 Maps and Plans. 65. HANDBOOKL-WARWICKSHIRE—WARWIC'K, KENILWORTH, COVEN- Tm', STRATFORD-ON<_AV_'QN, BIRMINGHAM, am. 10 Maps mid Plans: (is. HANDBOQK— BERKSHIRE . Almoél; 1 entirely re—writtefi. «*With Maps, 0. , _ » , HANDBOOK—BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. With Maps, 820, HANDBOOK—SOMERSETSHIRE. WithMaps and Plans. as, HANDBOOK—WILTs—AND DORSETSHIRE. With Mapsand Plans. , SCOTLAND. . ; HANDBOOK —+:SGOTLAND+EDINBUNGH,1 ’j MELROSE, ABBOTSFORD, GLASGOW, DUMans, GALLOWAY, ,AYR, STIRLING, ARRAN, THE CLYDE. OBAN, INVERARAY, LOCK LOMOND, LOCH KATRINE AND 'l'nosswns, CALEDONIANCANAL, JNVENNEss, PERTH, DUNDEE, ABERDEEN, BRAEMAR, SKYE, OAITH‘NEss, Ross, SUTHBRDAND, 8m. 30 Maps and Plans. 93.» g _ - I ' IRELAND. - . HANDBOOK —— IRELAND —— DUBLIN, BELFAST, 'DONEGAL, GALWAY, WEXFOIID, CORK, LIMERICK, WATERFORD,KILLARNEY, GLENGARIFF, BANTRY, No. ‘ An elmw'ely New (and 5th) Edition. 19 Maps and Plans. 93. MURRAY’S CYCLIST’S ROAD-BOOK—FROM LONDON THROUGH (LEIGH-ESTER, PORTSMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON TO THE NEW FOREST, AND BACK BY Rummy, “jNGHESTER, DORKING, LEATHERHEAD AND Epsom. Illustrated by a Road Atlas at the end Of the book. Fcap. Svo. 2s. ' EDWARD STANFORD, 12,.13, ,& 14, LONG ACRE, VV.C. June,1901. , V - , > _ 4 ‘4 V ‘ , J Fafiwfi 3. ll! 4. . 3111;11:5131131’ . 1"!!! if.)