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NARRATIVE OF VO

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T0 EXPLORE THE SHORES OF

AFRICA,1NRABLA

AND

'MADAGASCAR;
PERFORMRDJN 11. )1. SHIPS LEVEN AND BARRACOUTA,
L'NDER THE DIRECTION OF

CAPTAIN'WCF.“R§HVEN,RMN.

BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

‘KanJ-

LONboN:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Buhlisber in QBrBiuary ta fits Majesty.
1833.

 

‘. _ LONDON:
PRINTEDV BY . SAMUEL BENT LEY,‘ j
Dorset Street, Fleet Strget.

 

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ADVERTISEMENT.

IN presenting these Volumes to the world,
it may be necessary to make a few observa-
tions upon the delay that has attended their
publication. '

It was the intention of Captain Owen to have
arranged his manuscripts for the press shortly
after his return from the long and adventurous
Voyage which they relate; but he was almost
immediately appointed to his Majesty’s ship Eden,
with orders to take out and establish the set-
tlement of Fernando P0. The active prepara-
tions for this expedition prevented him from ful-
filling his intentions at that period.

In 1831 he again returned to his native shores;

but instead of enjoying that calm leisure which

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1......‘w, ms“.

iv ADVERTISEMENT.

his arduous services both called for and deserved,
his whole time has since been occupied in settling
Colonial accounts, and other public matters.

At this period, the Editor was informed that
it was still the wish of Captain Owen to prepare
his narrative for publication, though he had not
sufficient time to devote to that purpose. Under
these circumstances, the Journals of Captain
Owen and of the officers engaged under him in
the expedition, were entrusted to the Editor,
and they are now presented to the world in the
full conviction that their varied and interesting
details will afford both entertainment and in-

formation.

HEATON BowerAD ROBINSON.

Montpelier Place, T widen/mm,
June 1833.

INTRODUCTION.

THE intention and extent of this expedition
will in some measure be shown by the annexed
instructions from the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty; in addition to which, Captain Owen
had a further power to increase the limits of the
survey, if required, by any local information.
These instructions, as stating the deficiencies in
our hydrographical knowledge of the African
shores, were sufficient in themselves to point out
the course to be pursued by Captain Owen ; and
had it been left to his own discretion, he might
have obtained the required information without
the dreadful sacrifices, which it is the duty of
these pages to record; for in a climate subject to
such varied and deadly changes, a discretionary
power was certainly advisable, in order, by a ju-
dicious arrangement and attention to the seasons,
to avoid as much as possible its fatal effects upon
Europeans. It will be observed that this power
was not given to Captain Owen, and in the course
of the work it will be seen how melancholy were

the consequences.

MK ’ lN'l’RODUCTION.

No. 1.

By the Commissioners for executing the
Office of Lord High Admiral of the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, &c.

YOU are hereby required and directed to put to
sea with his Majesty’s ship Leven and Barracouta
sloop under your orders, as soon as they shall be
in every respect ready, and to proceed with all
convenient expedition to the Cape of Good Hope,
where you are to communicate with the Astrono-
mer, and regulate your chronometers at the ob-
servatory established there, and to receive on
board water and such refreshments as you may
stand in need of. You are then to proceed to
the eastward, and commence your survey either
at the mouth of the Keiskamma, the present
boundary of the colony of the Cape of Good
Hope, and continue it as far as Delagoa Bay, or
to commence at this bay and continue it south-
westerly to the Keiskamma, according to the
season of the year when you shall arrive off that
coast, and as the north-west or north-east wind
shall be found to prevail. In the latter case it
may be advisable to commence with the bay itself,
and to make a complete and accurate survey
thereof with the two rivers, as far as may be safe
and practicable, which are described as falling into
it, collecting information of the numbers and
character of the natives, their occupations, modes
of subsistence, &c_ the nature of the soil, and also

INTRODUCTION. vii

of the productions of the surrounding country.
By the time that these operations are concluded,
the north-westerly winds will have set in, when
the interjacent coast between the bay and the
Keiskamma may with more safety and conve-
nience be approached. You will ascertain whe-
ther any and what bays, harbours, and inlets, may
exist on that coast, examining the entrances into
all the rivers that may occur, whether they are
navigable, and by what description of vessels, and
to what extent.

\Vhen this part of the coast has been com-
pleted, together with Delagoa Bay, which it is
to be understood are the first in order to be sur-
veyed, it will probably be found necessary to
refresh and replenish the ships, in which case, if
Algoa Bay should not afford sufficient means for
that purpose, it may be advisable that you should
proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, from whence
you are to send home the result of your opera-
tions to that period, accompanied with whatever
information you may have been able to collect.

Having replenished the ships, you are again to
proceed to the northward, and, commencing the
second part of the survey at Delagoa Bay before-
mentioned, continue it along the coasts of Sofala
and Mozambique, examining and surveying every
bay,harbour, and inlet, and ascertaining the course
of all the various rivers that empty themselves
into the sea and Mozambique Channel, their size,
depth of water, whether navigable or not ; and, in
short, endeavouring to obtain any information

viii , INTRODUCTION.

respecting them that may be practicable, observing
that the bay and rivers of Inhamban, the Sofala,
and the Quilimaney will require your particular
attention ; and you are also to survey the several
islands which lie near the coasts you shall ex-
amine. As this second survey will probably ter-
minate in the Mozambique Channel, or at the
farthest at Quiloa, it may be proper to endeavour
to replenish your provisions and water at the
Portuguese settlement of Mozambique; but fail-
ing in this, either from the scantiness of supplies
at that settlement, or an unwillingness on the part
of the Portuguese authorities established there, it
may probably be advisable to try the northern
part of Madagascar, where it is stated that the
natives are friendly to us, and that cattle is in the
greatest abundance. Failing here, the next place
that offers itself is the island of Mauritius, where
a supply may with confidence be expected. As
soon as the two ships shall be in a state to proceed
again upon service, you will take up the survey
at the point on the coast where it had been dis-
continued, and carry it on in like manner as
before directed to Cape Guadafui, where you are
to consider the survey to terminate; but if the
ships and ships’ companies are in a state to con-
tinue in those seas, you may employ them in
examining and observing the true position of the
numerous islands and shoals between Madagascar
and the main and north and north-eastward of
Madagascar, and also such parts of the coast of
Madagascar as you may conceive not to have been

INTRODUCTION. ix

accurately ascertained; after which you are to
return to the Cape, and having there refreshed
your crews, make the best of your way to Spit-
head, reporting your arrival and proceedings to
our Secretary for our information. And whilst
employed on the service above directed, you are
to embrace every opportunity of transmitting to
our Secretary an account of your proceedings, and
to send to him at such times such results of your
labours as the progress you may have made may
enable you to furnish.
Given under our hands the

4th of February 1822.
MELVILLE.

G. COCKBURN.
G. CLARK.
To \Villiam Fitz William Owen, Esq.
Captain of his Majesty’s ship Leven,
At Spithead.

By command of their Lordships,
J. W. CROKER.

Upon the return of the Leven to the Seychelles,
in 1824, Captain Owen received the following
further instructions from the Hydrographical
Office, to continue the survey along the shores of
Arabia Felix.

X INTRODUCTION.

No. 2.

Hydrographical Office, May 20, 1823.
DEAR SIR,

The Topaze has lately sent us a sketch
of the South Coast of Arabia, from the Red Sea
to Dofar, where it joins that made by Captain
Smith in the Indian Chart-book, and with which
it perfectly agrees. He found some ports, parti-_
cularly Maculla, forty-five miles out in latitude,
but the great error appears to be between Shoal
Cliff and Ras—al-Had. Captain Horsburgh in
giving the coast the same trending as in other
charts, has altered Captain Smith’s nearly two
degrees more westerly, although that officer’s ac-
curacy has been verified by the Topaze and Bac-
chus. Captain Horsburgh appears to think Ras-
al-Had correctly placed in our charts; if so, the
coast from Shoal Cliff to Ras—al-Had, must trend
north-westerly, instead of north-easterly, which
has hitherto been considered the fact. Should
your orders permit you to go to Bombay, you
might easily settle this to our satisfaction. You
will no doubt have the full particulars of Lieute-
nant West’s discovery of the Telemaque shoals, and
will be upon the look-out for them. Captain
Horsburgh does not believe in their existence;
he says, a bank of such extent must have been
discovered and examined long before this period,

INTRODUCTION. xi

and as the Lieutenant did not take soundings,
he cannot place any confidence in his supposition.
(Signed) P. WALKER.

During the equipment of this expedition,
both Captain Owen and his officers were con-
stantly exposed to the frivolous annoyances so
often complained of in the'administration of our
civil departments of the Navy. No office ever
defeated the intention of its projectors so perfectly
as the Navy Board; for instead of expediting
the equipment of his Majesty’s ships, they threw
every obstacle in the way, either by an ingenious
misconstruction or wilful delay. Every applica-
tion made by Captain Owen to the Admiralty
was instantly ordered; while by this Board no-
thing was granted, however important to the
service; every thing obtained from them being
after long and constant importunity. Under
these circumstances, the Navy in particular, and
the public generally, may congratulate them-
selves upon being no longer burdened with so
expensive and unnecessary an establishment; as
the duties which they ought to have done are
now performed by a branch of the Admiralty.

Upon the second return of this expedition to
Seychelles in December 1824, the following letter,
together with the annexed memorandum, from
the Hydrographical Office, was received by
Captain Owen, calling upon him to complete a
survey of the west coast of Africa.

xii INTRODUCTION.

No. 3.

Admiralty Office, June 30, 1824.

SIR,

It being the intention of my Lords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty, that on your return
to England from the surveys in which you have
been engaged on the eastern side of Africa, you
should employ yourself with the vessels under
your orders in making a complete survey of the
western coast of Africa, from Cape Mesurado to
the River Gambia, and the Bight of Benin; I
am commanded by their Lordships to signify
their directions to you, to return with the Leven
and Barracouta to the Cape of Good Hope, to
report their labours in time to enable you after-
wards to reach the coast between Cape Mesurado
and the Gambia about the middle of November
1825, when you are accordingly to employ your-
self in making accurate surveys of the coasts and
dangers above mentioned, and having completed
the same, you are then to make the best of your
way with the said vessels to Spithead, and report
your arrival and proceedings for their Lordships’
information. ‘

I am further to acquaint you, that a packet con-
taining some charts and a memorandum from the
Hydrographical Department of this office for
your information, in regard to the surveys above
directed on the western coast of Africa, is for-

Q

INTRODUCTION. xiii

warded for you to the naval store-keeper at the
Cape of Good Hope, to whom you are to apply
for the same.

I am, Sir,
Your very humble Servant,
J. S. BARROW.
MEMORANDUM.

Their Lordships being desirous of having the
Coastof Africa, between Sierra Leone, and the
River Gambia, with its dangers, completely sur-
veyed, have directed me to give you a detailed
account, not only of what we possess, but also of
our wants, that you may be the better enabled to
fulfil them. I shall also give you a short state-
ment of the whole coast, that you may know
what is wanted to complete it.

I should recommend you to begin at Cape
Mesurado, a little to the southward of the shoals
of St. Ann, where Mr. De Mayne left off. A
survey of these shoals lately made by Lieutenant
Hagan, will accompany this, which may be of
use for you, either to verify or amend if necessary.
“Te know nothing whatever of the river Sierra
Leone, as far as is necessary for navigation:
it will, therefore, be desirable to obtain the re-
quisite information. The Isles de Loss are fre—
quently resorted to by His Majesty’s ships; you
have a copy of the only plan we possess, in the
first volume of plans you were furnished with,
but it is reported to be very erroneous: a survey,
therefore, of them, on a good-sized scale, is very

xiv INTRODUCTION.

desirable. The whole coast line from Sierra Leone
to Cape Roxa, we know little or nothing about,
though it contains the entrances of four large
rivers, besides a number of smaller ones, but the
most dangerous part is the Bissagos Archipelago,
or as they are generally called in the charts, the
Shoals of Rio Grande. The French have lately
made a survey of the two channels which nearly
surround these shoals, the one leading into the
Rio Jaba, the other into the Rio Grande, a copy
of which accompanies this: you will see they only
just touch upon the Islands and Shoals; a more
detailed one would be desirable, as far as prudence
will allow you to risk your ships.

From Cape Roxo to the River Gambia, being a
straight coast and no dangers, you will have little
to do, as it was surveyed in a former voyage in the
Leven, by Lieutenants Vidal and Mudge, except
the entrances of three or four rivers which were
thought too insignificant to lose their time about ;
but the Gambia it will be necessary to survey
very minutely, so far up as may be necessary for
navigation, it being a place of great trade; and
there are said to be many dangers, but which we
are totally unacquainted with.

The Coast from the Cape of Good Hope to
Benguela, has been fully examined and surveyed
by Captain Chapman, of His Majesty’s ship Es-
piegle, and as we have a former survey of that
part taken in one of His Majesty’s ships, these
combined with Mr. De Mayne’s survey from
Benguela t0 the Congo, will be fully sufficient for

INTRODUCTION. XV

every purpose of navigation. But from the Con-
go to the Bight of Benin, we are very defective ;
it is represented as a straight coast, and I believe no
dangers exist on it. Yet it is desirable to have
its situation exactly ascertained, and to know
what rivers may empty themselves into the sea
within that space. Should you therefore arrive
on that part of the coast before the fair weather
commences, (about the middle of November,) or
be driven away from it before you have com~
pletedr the survey of that part between Sierra
Leone and the Gambia, you might take that
opportunity to inspect that between the Congo
and the Bight of Benin. When these two objects
are accomplished, I conceive the whole western
coast of Africa will be sufficiently known for

every purpose of navigation.
P. WALKER.

Hydrographical Office,
June 30, 1824.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

V O L. I.
A Hollontonte . . . To face the Title
Chart of Delagoa Bay . . . . Page 1
Entrance to the Kye River . . . . 75
English Bill . . . . . 101
Black Rocks . ., . . . . 281
View of Mombas . . ( . . 399
Land-Gate, Mombas . . . . 404
Chart of Mombas - ~ . . . 412

VOL. II.
View of Sierra Leone . To face the Title
Chart of the P01 ts of Conducia, Mozambique, and

Mokamba "” ' . . ¢ 0 Page 1

Sepulchral Tablet . n . . . 78
Native of Madagascar . . . a 87 ;
Radama, King of Madagascar . . . 119 '

Chart of the Cape of Good Hope . .. c 224

 

CONTENTS

OF

THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER 1.

Trial of rockets.—The Confiance.——A gale of wind.—-Depar-
ture from England—Enter the Tagus.—-Chronometers.—Par-
ties over the country.—-Astronomical observations—A man
overboard.-—Madeira.—Feudal tenure.—Culture of the vines.—
Santa Cruz.——A public ball.——St. Patrick—Deviation of the
compass.—Eagles.——Experiment with ror‘l'ots.-—Mr. Forbes’s
Narrative . . . . . . 1

CHAPTER II.

Arrival in Porto Grande.—Joined by the Barracouta.—Ta—
nafal Bay.—Leaving the Bay.—Trinidada.——Geographical fal-
lacy.—-A French squadron.—-The Cockburn steam-boat.—De-
sertion of seamen—Country around Rim—Extracts from the
Journal of Mr. John Forbes.——Vegetation at Rim—Public
Garden.—Peculiar oranges.~Bot0 Fogo.—Botanical garden.—

VOL. I. B

xviii CONTENTS.

Excursion by water.-—-— Porto d’Estrella. —-Mr. LangsdorH’s
house.-—-—A little colony.—The Araucanian pine—Museum of
natural history . . . . . 28

CHAPTER III.

A man overboard.—-Towing the Cockburn.—Arrival at the
Cape—Heavy gales.—Survey of the Peninsula.—-Desertion.—
Dangerous error.—War of extermination—Kafi'er interpreters.
-—— The Cape peninsula. — Barracouta’s proceedings.— The
Cape Coast.——Bays and harbours.—-Insecurity of Table Bay.—
Algoa Bay.—-P0rt Elizabeth—Loss of the Doddington.—De-
fective charts.—The negro Kafi‘ers.——The Keiskamma River.—
Tribes on the c0ast.-—-Entrance to English River.—Senhor
Oliva.—Native boats.—Boundaries . . . 51

CHAPTER IV.

Jem of the Water.——-Awkward craft—Personal adornment.
—Factory officers—Intestine war.——Rivers.—-—Jackot and Fire.
—English Riven—The River _Mattoll.——The River Temby.—
Improvidence of the natives—Traffic with the natives.——A
native village—Termination of the survey.—A hippopotamus.
—-A night-scene.—A party of natives—Dress of the chief.—
T he Hollontontes. —— Night-precautions. — Terrific attack. ~—
Defeat of the barbarians. —- Return to the boats. —- Native
warriors . . . . . . . 76

CHAPTER V.

English Bill.—Native Secretaries—Prince Slangelly.—Slan-
gelly’s family.—His riches—'Fondness for smoking.—Wretch-
ed fugitives—A group of hippopotami.——A party of natives.—
Traps for hippopotami.—— Mattoll’s people.—-Smoking the hub-
ble-bubble.—-Infatuation . . . . 10]

CONTENTS. xix

CHAPTER VI.

Quarter-deck market.—Native Liquors—Death and burial
of Mr. Tambs.——Hostilities.——A Deserter.—-—Death of a Seaman.
——Portuguese atrocity.—Native feud.—Captain Lechmere’s ill-
ness and death.—His Servant’s illness.——A man lost.—Dange-
rous situation.—Fresh water.—Trap for Hippopotami 117

CHAPTER VII.

Fever on board.—Seizure of R0berts.—-Mission to King Ma-
yetta.’—The royal hut.—Approach of Mayetta.——-Interview with
Mayetta.-—The River Manice.—Parties of Hoilontontes.—In-
terview with them—Their retreat.—-I\'Iusquitoes.—-Curiosity of
the natives.—Two victims to the fever.——Astonishment of the
natives.-—Timpson’s cross—Increase of fever on board—Its
serious character.-— Sufl'erings of the Sick—Lieutenant Gibbon’s.
—Death of Captain Cutfield . . . 135

CHAPTER VIII.

Superstitions fear—Fatal presentiments.—More victims.—
Prudence of the Natives—Change of Officers.-—-Track-survey-
ing.-—Aspect of the coast.—Naming of places—Ridge of moun-
tains.—Islands.—French settlements—Native hair-dressing.—
Native costume—Native dance.-~Dexterity of the natives.—
Their huts and looms-Animals and vegetables.—-Natural af-
fection.—-Laxity of virtue . . . . 155

CHAPTER IX.

The seasons at St. Mary's.—Treatment of fever.-——Going on
shore.——Landing.—The royal palace. —— Interview with the
King—The Prince’s-house.—Market on the beach.—-—Johanna.
—Its natives—Leave Johanna . . . 175

XX CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

Mozambique—Garrison and forts—The city.-—Its popula-
tion—Portuguese jurisdiction—The Governor’s house.—Mrs.
Guest.—A mutiny.—Senhor Alvarez.—Fraudulent Practices.—
A wilful wreck.-—Angozha Riven—Mohammedan tomb.—An-
. gozha islands.-The coast.—An adventure.—-Interior of the
country.——Europa Island.—The Cockburn.—-Lieutenant Owen’s
narrative—The Sincapore.——The Orange Grove—Unexpected
recovery.——Meeting of relatives . . . 187

CHAPTER XI.

Lieutenant Owen’s narrative continued.—Shores of the Ma-
poota.—Embassy to Makasany.—Interview with him—His
reply.—Hospita1ity.—Mode of barter.—Exploring party.-—Tcr-
rific conflagration.—The fatal disorder.——Musquitoes.——Ravages
of the fever.—Lieutenant's Owen’s illness—Mr. Tudor, and
Cooper.—Fatal result . . . . . 212

f

CHAPTER XII.

The gun-room steward—Effects of‘imagination.—Excuses for
shipwreck.—Barlow’s plate—English Bill’s mimicry.——Super-
stition.——Natives at dinner.——A native culprit—Features of the
country.——A severe gale.—Aigoa Bay.—A mysterious appear-
ance.—The flying Dutchman.—-Wreck of the Cockburn.—A,
Dutch frigate wrecked.—Finishing our charts—Bill at Cape
Town.—Sale of a gift . . . . 229

CHAPTER XIII.

Ball on board.—The Albatross.—— Missionaries.—Betheldorp
and Uitenhage.—Trade with Delagoa.——-Perfidy.—Expedition
against the Zoolos.———Point Reuben.——Native p1ants.——An ele-
phant.———A Portuguese Lady.——Coward1y revenge.~—-Expedition
in boats.—Matchakany.-—A Portuguese suppliant.—Unburied
bodies . . ‘ . . . . . 249

CONTENTS. xxi

CHAPTER XIV.

Ascend the Dundas. —- Hippopotami. — Imprudence. — The
Hunters entrapped—A liberated Captive.—Seizure of Slaves.
—English Merchant-ships.—Shores of the Mapoota.-—Hunting
Hippopotami.—Regulations for Trading—Miss the Barracouta.
-—-A new Tribe.—Their Conduct.—-—A curious Custom—Traffic

265

CHAPTER XV.

Meet the Barracouta.-—-The Black Rocks—A Critical situa-
tion.———Island of Piquena Banca—Arrival at Quilimane.—Con-
duct of the Governor.—Origin of the Town.—The Slave-Trade
—-A gale.—A heavy sea—Desperate alternative.—Houses in.
Quilimane.—Vegetables and Animals.—Mart for Slaves—Na-
tive Marriage.—A bereaved Mother.—Tattooing.—Costume.——
Medical treatment . . . . . 280

CHAPTER XVI.

Anchor recovered.— Bazaruta Islands.—Inhamban.—A re-
joicing.— Trade at Inharnban.— Courage of the Natives.—
Dance of VVomen.—A procession.—An oration—A boat lost.
-—Shells.—Musical Instruments—Arrival at Sofala.——The
Governor’s Deputy.—Ignorant Pilot.—His despondency.——
Murderous attempt. — Dr. Guland’s wound. - Recover the
Guns . . . . . . . 297

CHAPTER XVII.

Islands of Boene and Chuluwan.—Rivers of Eastern Africa.
—P0rt of Sofala.-Dr. Cowan.—Early Navigators—Comman-
dants of Factories. r—VVhales.—Convivial lizards.—An earth-

xxii CONTENTS.

quake.-——Sea-birds.—-—Joys of civilization.—Remarkable meteor.
—Naval discipline.—A military officer arrested.-— Survey of
coast above Zanzibar.—Arrival at Muskat.—The town 316

CHAPTER XVIII.

Town of Muskat—The Sultan’s horses—A royal merchant.
—Merchant-frigates.——The Sultan’s pilgrimage.—Exchange of
gifts.-—Pearls.——The coast.-—-A man drowned—Island of
Massera.—-Bays.—Islands and reefs.—Erroneous chart.—The
north coast—Abdul Koory.—Its bay . . 336

CHAPTER XIX.

Cape Guardafui.—Peninsula of Hafoon.—Rocky coast, called
Hazine, the Ajan of the maps.—Wreckers.—-—-The Somauli.—
The Galla, a wild people.—Mukdeesha.—City of the dead.
4—Jealousy of strangers.———,Treacherous act.—Aspect of the
coast.—Devastation.—Tower of Manara.-—Rocks and islets.
—-— The Hakeem.——Lamoo. ———The Governor’s visit. —— Arrival
at Mombas.—Cession of Mombas and dependencies to Great
Britain. -— Pemba, or Green Island. — The Perseverance. -—
Ingratitude. -——Ports and Bays. -—Bay of Mizimbaty.— Picos
Fragos . . . . . . 353

CHAPTER XX.

Lieut. Boteler’s Journal.— Distressed Fugitives.-—-Steer for
Patta.———-Native timidity.—Visit from a Chief.— Island of Patta.
——-C0nquest of Patta by the Imaum of Muskat.———Arab Dows.
Lamoo.—Buildings and Costume.— Military Weapons—Arab
fortifieation.—Arab “brown—Education and Food—Coasting
Trade. — The Galla.——Surprise of the Arabs. ——A Hog.—
Survey to the Southward.— Shooting Elephants.-— Dread of
Fire-arms.——-An accident . . . . 376

CONTENTS. xxiii

CHAPTER XXI.

The Leopard’s Bank—Memorial Pillars.—City of Maleenda.
—-Its Decline. —Arrival at Mombas. —— The Fortress.——Old
Portuguese Inscription—Interior of the Fort.—-Decline of
Arab Power.-Sheik of Mombas.-—Prince of Maleenda.—An
Offer of Territory.—The English Flag—Arab Repast.—Har-
hour of Mombas.———Commercial Facilities.——History of Mombas.
—G0ing without Arms . . . . 399

CHAPTER XXII.

Arrival at Pemba.——-Capture of Pemba.—-—Arrival off Zanzibar.
-—Harb0urs.—The Chief's visit.—Deserters.—Unhcalthy cli-
mate of Zanzibar.—Latham's Island.—-Sea-fowl.——Cunning ex-
pedient . . . . . . . 425

ERRATUM.

For Lieutenant Rozier, read Lieutenant Rogier.

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NARRATIVE OF VOYAGES,

CHAPTER I.

 

Trial of rockets. —»Tl10 Confiancc. A gale 0t" wind—Departure
from England—Enter the Tagus.——Chron0meters.——Parties
over the country.———Astronomical observations.—A man ever-
board.-—Madeira.-—Feudal tenure—Culture of the vines.—
Santa C ruz.—A public ball.—St. Patrick—Deviation of the
compass.—Eagles.—Experiment with rockets—Mr. Forbes's
Narrative.

AUGUST the 10th, 1821, H. M. S. Leven was
commissioned by Captain XV. F. W. Owen, who
commenced her equipment at W oolwich for a
voyage which it was calculated would occupy
about four years.

On the 2nd of October a new ten~gun brig,
named the Barracouta, was also commissioned
by Captain William Cutfield, and placed under
the command of Captain Owen ; who at the same
time had authority to add a smaller vessel to
his squadron when on the ground of his ope-
rations, as both the Leven and Barraconta drcw

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too much water for many of the services upon
which they would be required. As so many
operations of surveying are carried on in boats,
each vessel was supplied with two additional four-
oared gigs expressly fitted for that purpose. It
became necessary in consequence of this irregu-
larity in their equipment to distinguish them by
proper names. Accordingly they changed their
usual appellations of “pinnace, gig, cutter,” and
“ jolly-boat,” into Melville, Cockburn, Croker, &c.

Whilst at Woolwich various experiments were
made upon the flight of rockets, which had been
recommended by Captain Owen to the Admiralty,
as a ready and simple method of measuring the
difference of longitude between two places not
very distant. Sir W. Congreve kindly ordered
numerous trials to be made of their efficacy
for this purpose; a thirty-two pound rocket
sent up from Shooter’s Hill was seen at Deal, a
distance of about fifty-five geographical miles. It
was found that the thirty-two pounders attained a
perpendicular height of 6,000 feet, the twenty-
four pounders about 4,500, and so in proportion
to their magnitude down to the half-pound
rocket, which ascended about 2,400 feet, and the
quarter-pound 1,500.9K

In consequence of the success of these experi-

* We measured these heights by the angle of elevation at
VVoolwich Warren, the distance from the spot where the
rockets were fired being previously ascértained; consequently
the correctness of the results depended upon their ascent
being perpendicular. "

 

%;‘wflwi.r,;u~.w - . -

THE CUNFIANCR. 3

ments, the Admiralty permitted us to embark as
many rockets as we could conveniently stow for
the proposed purpose.

Both vessels were fitted with Captain Phil-
lips’s capstan, to which a fourfold power could
be applied if necessary; and also three iron
cables instead of one. The equipment and man—
ning the vessels were completed by the 10th of
January 1822; when the Leven quitted “Tool-
wich and moored to a buoy at Northfleet; at
which place the Barracouta joined her the day
following. Here we both took in'our guns and
powder. The Confiance joined us at this place
from Deptford, commanded by Captain Morgan,
who was first lieutenant of the Endymion, when
she captured the President American frigate.
Having fitted out together We naturally felt an
interest in one another’s fate. The Confiance was
on her way to the coast of Ireland, and was not
long afterwards wrecked upon the Mizen-head
when every soul on board perished. The account
of this melancholy event reached us at the Cape
of Good Hope in August 1822. .

VVe sailed with a fair wind down the river in
company with the Barracouta and Confiance, and
took this opportunity to try our sailing properties
in smooth water, the Leven having obtained
unjust notoriety as a bad sailer; but upon this
occasion she beat the Barracouta, and sailed quite
as well as the Confiance, much to the disappoint-
ment of their respective officers and men.

\Ve remained in the Downs until the 25th,

B 2

4 A GALE or WIND.

during which time we fitted our chain-pumps
to work by the capstan, upona plan suggested by
Mr. Edwards, as an economical mode of applying
personal labour.

On the 25th we arrived at Spithead, where we
experienced a severe gale of wind from the south-
ward, which was so violent as to drive the Eu-
ryalus into our hawse. W e veered out a whole
chain, which being shackled round the main-mast,
we endeavoured to clear both at the first and
last link, but the joint of the shackle-bolts being
rusted in, we were obliged to ride in an extremely
dangerous situation with the frigate still driving
in our hawse, until the fury of the gale brought
our anchor home, much to the joy of all ; and when
We had drifted far enough from the Euryalus, we
brought up in safety by another anchor.

The Horticultural Society, desirous of extend-
ing the boundary of human knowledge in natural
history, obtained from the Admiralty an order to
embark a botanist for this purpose; and here Mr.
John Forbes, the gentleman appointed, joined
us, with an allowance from the Society of 200].
a year during his absence. After Spithead we
anchored in Cowes road, where we were obliged
to remain all the next day by a thick fog; but
on Wednesday the 13th of February 1822, we
passed out to sea by the Needles, and took a fare-
well of our native shore for some years.

Who can say what varied feelings were stirring
at that moment in the breasts of all? Two hun-
dred Britons were leaving the land of their affec-

Wfi.

DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 5

tions——the soil that had cherished them from
infancy, and which was endeared to them by
every tie of love, of hope, and of memory-—in
search of what? Ask the young and thought-
less midshipman, whose tender frame and
boyish cheek seem little suited for the adven-
turous sailor’s life, why he leaves his parent’s
arms to seek a distant, friendless shore? His
sanguine imagination will answer—honour, pro-
motion, wealth, and all that fancied something
so often seen in the glittering sunshine of ro-
mance, but which sad reality so soon blackens
into shadow and disappointment. And what
says the hardy seaman, as he leaves for so long
a time all that he loves—Wife—children—
friends? he has no romance or hope to light
his toilsome course, yet he goes on ever ready
and cheerful. But if a. tear moisten his eye for
those at home—he wipes it from his cheek, and
duty calls him to forgetfulness. Had the book
of fate been opened to us at that moment, “how
many a heart that then was gay” would have
seen its fond hopes end, and have shrunk from
the distant solitary grave that awaited it! But
it was mercifully closed ; and curiosity, with the
hope of seeing new and strange lands, was the
prevailing feeling after we had lost sight of our
native soil.

In six days we made Cape Finisterre, and then
sailed down the coast of Portugal, passing be—
tween the Benling rocks and the main land,
taking views of its most interesting features,

6 ENTER THE TAGUS.

The morning of the 23rd we stood into the chan-
nel, took a pilot on board, and beat into the
Tagus; when, having passed the city, both vessels
moored close to the arsenal. Immediately on our
arrival, Captain Owen waited on Mr. Ward, our
Chargé d’Afi’aires, through whom he presented to
the Minister of Marine, Admiral Quintella, a
copy of the Leven’s survey of the Cape de Verd
islands, made during her former voyage: at the
same time requesting directions from the Por-
tuguese ministry to their authorities in Eastern
Africa to favour the objects of our present en-
terprize.

The well-known jealous character of this na-
tion, in regard to her colonies, rendered this pro-
ceeding necessary, in order to prevent any misun-
derstanding Whenever we might come in contact
with her Colonial officers at places which our orders
required us to survey. The Portuguese minister
in England had written a letter for the Governor
of l\Iozambique to this effect, but the political
‘ changes in the mother country had brought ano-
ther party into powei‘,——tlle Cortez at this time
reigning almost absolute.

Flattercd by the f 'auk manner in which the
charts of the Cape do Verd Islands were pre-
‘ sented, strong letters to the Governor of Mozam-
bique to render all possible assistance in the pro-
secution of our labours were furnished us, as well
as others to those subordinate to him. The mi—
nister Quintella also gave us permission to land
our instruments at the arsenal, to make what as-

CHRONOMETERS. 7

tronomical observations we required. It was a
most important point with us to obtain the rates
of our chronometers at this place, as the climate
assimilated nearer to that of our future operations,
and the extreme precision and care necessary for
the required observations could not, in our case,
be bestowed upon them in England.

\Vithout considering the great improvements
which have taken place in this instrument, and
its supposed perfection, Captain Owen felt that,
to place implicit confidence in it, might probably
be fatal to the correctness and utility of our
work: and the result proved the justice of this
supposition, for, not one of our nine chrono-
meters kept its rate without fluctuation, produced
either by change of weather, climate, or position.
In some this variation was very trifling, but in
all sufficient to produce much error, unless cor-
rected by a great deal of care and attention.
\Ve likewise made daily observations on the de-
viation of the compass by the vessel’s local attrac-
tion, the knowledge of which was important, as it
was quite a novelty in the practice of navigation :
besides, we had not an officer on board who did
not require much instruction to obtain the infor-
mation our future work was likely to demand.

Although we had a great many young officers,
yet in astronomical science most of them were
mere novices, and almost all were destitute of
that elementary knowledge by which it can be
acquired. \Ve therefore took advantage of our
situation near the arsenal, the liberal permission

8 PARTIES OVER THE COUNTRY.

of Admiral Quintella, and the polite attentions of
Admiral May, the Commissiena, to keep up a
continued course of observations, both by day
and night, during our stay, principally with a
View to acquire the use of the different instru-
ments.

The attentions of Messrs. Ward, the Char-ge-
d’Aff'aires, and J efi'ereys, the Consul-general, de-
serve our sincere acknowledgments, as well as those
of the Vice-consul, Mr. Phillipps, who was unre-
mitting in his endeavours to meet our wishes in
every respect. His brother, Mr. George Phillipps,
a young man of twenty, was pilot to our parties
over the country in quest of game, plants, scenery,
and novelty. In the first, Captain Lechmere and
l‘vlr. Forbes were foremost, and the latter for-
warded from hence numerous botanical speci-
mens, while Mr. Browne found many subjects
for his pencil.

As much of the accuracy with which we hoped
to be able to measure the meridian distances, or
differences of longitude between the numerous
places we were to visit, would depend on the uni-
formity of the rates of our chronometers, we made
a resolution never to fire any of the great guns
from the deck 011 which they were kept, if it
could be avoided, nor indeed from either ship
any at all, unless in cases where the public ser-
vice absolutely demanded it; and, in‘imediately
on entering the river Tagus, Lieutenant Vidal
was dispatched to Mr. Ward, begging him to ex-
plain that, beiug on aflbyage of survey, we could

ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATlON S. 9

not salute without detriment to our instruments,
from which, therefore, we begged to be excused :
and, at the same time, obtained the permission we
required to make use of the arsenal. It will be
seen in the course of this narrative how necessary
this precaution was, for we never departed from
it without completely deranging our chronometers.

\Ve here obtained the Ephemerides of Coimbra,
as far as they were published, as they contain much
that is deficient in our own nautical almanack.
Having completed our provisions, and obtained
all the desired astronomical observations, we sailed
from the arsenal on the 4th of DIarch, and beat
down the river to Belem, where we anchored for
the night, and, on the following morning, at day-
light, left the Tagus, taking a long farewell of
the coast of Europe.

\Vhilst at Lisbon the Barraconta was rigged as
a bark, on account of the particular service of
survey; by removing the main—boom, which
would certainly have obstructed those operations,
she was rendered more manageable with a re-
duced crew, which, to us, was a very material
consideration, as our boats would very commonly
be detached for the critical examination of the
coasts and rivers

By the intercourse of Mr. George Phillipps
with our officers a spirit of adventure was awa-
kened, which induced him to solicit Captain
Owen to receive him on board, who, finding he
was an excellent linguist, and a good scholar in
English, French, Portuguese, and Spanish, acqui-

10 A MAN OVERBOARD.

esced from an anticipation of his utility in the
future stages of our voyage.

We had a fair wind to Madeira. The day
after our quitting Lisbon, going nine knots, or at
the rate of about ten English miles and a half, in
an hour, W} Duckett, a seaman, fell from the
fore-top-sail-yard; he however swam well and
caught hold of the line by which one of Massey’s
patent buoys was towed. But this giving way,
the patent life-buoy was immediately detached
from the stern, and the man soon picked
up. This adventure excited great admiration
amongst some of our English acquaintance at
Madeira, and one party, a Mrs. Kerr and friends,
whilst taking an evening excursion upon the water,
came alongside and requested to see the method
by which the poor fellow was saved. The buoy
was liberated from the stern of the vessel for their
examination, and, when a hundred yards off, the
same man Duckett jumped overboard, and swam
to it, thus explaining more fully the manner of
his escape.

We had a fine run, and on the 8th made Porto
Santo by moonlight, at two in the morning, and
anchored in Funchall Road at 2 1’.M. We took
immediate advantage of the kindness of Mr.
Veitch, our Consul, by sending the instruments
on shore to his garden in the upper part of the
town, where he had a neat little cottage; this
he gave up entirely to the botanist and officers,
who remained there, each being fully occupied
in his respective department until the 12th, on

MADEIRA. 11

which evening we should have sailed if' Captain
Owen could have opposed the united solicitations
of the English gentlemen and his young officers,
for whom a ball and supper had been prepared;
but at daylight all were embarked, and both ships
were under way.

Madeira is too well-known to require any ob-
servations. Many of our officers made excursions
into the interior of the island. The botanist, Mr.
Forbes, and our second lieutenant, Boteler, set out
with several of the younger officers, meaning to
visit the highest peak of the island. Their guides,
however, misled them, carried them round the
Curral, and brought them back again sufficiently
fatigued.

The Curral means simply a sheepfold, and is
an immense valley, completely surrounded by
hills, whose sides are literally perpendicular, in no
part being less than 1000 feet high. Round a
part of these cliffs is a narrow road, leading to the
garden—houses and country plantations, cut out of
the rock, about ten or twelve feet wide. Such
was the effect of riding along the road over the
Curral, which seemed like an unfathomable abyss,
filled only by clouds and vapours, rolling in a
constant motion over each other, that our party
instinctively pressed their horses so close to the
rocks to avoid the giddy abyss, that some of
them absolutely rubbed the skin off their legs.
One only seemed dead to this nervous feeling:
this was Captain Lechmere, who skipped from
rock to rock on the very edge of the precipice,

12 I’EUDAL TENURE.

with the facility and almost the activity of a
goat, to the great terror of the rest of the party,
whom the Consul had accompanied to his country
house, called the Jardine; a delightful but ne-
glected spot, completely overlooking the part of
the coast in the vicinity of Funchall, from which
it was distant about nine miles, on an elevation
3000 feet above the sea.

This town is, from its situation on the side of a
hill, very clean, and has various marks of opu-
lence and industry. The peasants are an athletic
and free race, very laborious and frugal. They
hold their lands by a feudal tenure, and cannot be
removed from them by the lord, nor can he raise
their rent unless he first pay the occupier the full
value of every improvement made, such as build—
ings erected, vines or fruit—trees planted, grounds
cleared, &c. which renders it almost equal to copy-
hold in England, and may perhaps account, in
part, for the evident difference in the habits of
the Portuguese of Madeira, and of almost every
other colony to the southward. Here the mean-
est subject can acquire and enjoy property ; ends
never attainable where the wretched system of
slavery is established. .

The Consul, Mr. V eitch, who was nearly re—
lated to the unfortunate Mungo Park, made al-
most every oflicer in both vessels grateful for his
hospitality. His house was our house in every
sense of the word, and his liberality was not sin-
gular at this happy little spot, for our merchants
all overpowered us with kindness and attention.

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CULTURE ()1’ THE YINES. 13

In five days no less than three balls were given to
us, and every officer who could be spared from
duty had invitations daily.

It is seldom expected of sailors to make re-
marks on the cultivation of land; but one pecu-
liarity in the culture of the vines at Madeira
struck us very forcibly, namely, the great depth
at which they were planted. The soil is trench-
ed up from three to seven, and even to nine feet,
at which depth the roots of the vines are laid and
trained thence to the surface. The reason given
us was, that some part of the root must be in a
moist soil at all times, and the trellis-work, with
the vines trained over it, forms a shade for the
ground, preventing the exhalation of its mois-
ture, to maintain which seems absolutely neces-
sary to secure a harvest of good grapes. At the
Cape of Good Hope the method differs very ma-
terially.

\Ve sailed from Funchall Road to the west-
ward, in order to determine the longitude of the
extreme western point of Madeira, called Punte
del Porgas, which we found to be 17° 15’ 9”.
The charts and common plans of the island make
it too long from east to west by one third of the
actual length of the whole island, and this mis-
take, considerable as it is, still remains unrecti-
fied. But, although a good survey of the coast
of Madeira was evidently wanted, yet, as our
orders did not direct it, the Captain was satisfied
with obtaining a passing observation for the lon-
gitude of the above point, to show how much its

144 SANTA CRUZ.

magnitude had been mistaken: of which, indeed,
he was before partially informed by his brother,
Sir Edward Owen, at whose suggestion this in-
quiry was made.

It being Captain Owen’s intention to touch at
Santa Cruz to take a stock of wine and cocoa,
the opportunity was favourable for measuring the
meridian distances to certain points of the Canary
Islands. We therefore made all sail with a strong
north-east wind for Allegranza, a small island at
the north-east end of Lancerote. After beating
about these islands for two days, we came to an
anchor in the road of Santa Cruz, about 100
yards from the Mole. Our approach was past
a line of fishing boats, each of which had a tire of
Canary pine at the bow and stern, which produced
a beautiful effect; and, as they anchor to fish on
the outer verge of the bank, they are good marks
for vessels in the night, being sure of soundings
when in the same line with the fishermen’s lights.
Immediately on anchoring they brought their
fish alongside for a market. The stock consisted
principally of a species of horse-mackerel caught
with a rod and line.

It being night when we arrived, we could not
land the following morning to take our observz —
tions until the health-boat had visited us, which
was not until nine o’clock. Lieutenant Boteler
was sent to the governor to state our reasons for
not saluting, and to obtain his permission to
make our observations. Lieutenant Owen and
Messrs. Gibbons and VVatkins from the Leven,

 

33$:

A l—‘U BLIC BALL. l5

Lieutenant Mudge and Mr. Hood from the
Barracouta, were lauded for that purpose with
their instruments.

On the following day Mr. Forbes, Lieutenant
Boteler, and Mr. Fisher visited Laguna, and
picked up some of the curiosities of the island.
The next day, being the anniversary of the pro-
clamation of the Constitution, the officers of
both vessels were invited to the public ball given
on the occasion, many of whom attended. Several
of the Spanish gentlemen were in their volunteer
uniforms, and seemed highly to value their newly
acquired liberties. Many of the ladies were ex—
tremely beautiful, and their manners particularly
amiable and fascinating, and we all agreed that
the Spanish dance was the most rational, pretty,
and sociable entertainment of this description we
had ever seen. In their manners both sexes are
extremely easy and sociable, and so used are all
classes to perfect decorum that a master of the
ceremonies is unnecessary. The orchestra is com-
posed of amateurs from the company, the ladies
taking the piano, and the gentlemen other instru-
ments according to their ability ; there seemed to
us to be no fixed rule or restraint, yet we did not
understand that their harmony was ever disturbed
by disagreements among themselves. The ladies
were all dressed in the English style, and their
strong resemblance to our fair countrywomen in
every respect was very striking; and, upon this
resemblance being remarked, we were informed
that most of them were of English or Irish ex—

y"\

16 ST. PATRICK.

traction. The only thing that surprised us was
to observe that many of the gentlemen enjoyed
their delicious Havannah cigars in the ball—room
without offending the ladies’ nerves.

In one of the churches may be seen the figure
of St. Patrick decked in his original costume of
green coat, yellow brogues, blue stockings, cover-
ing a purely Irish calf, a small hat stuck on one
side of his head so as to leave fair space for a sprig
of shillaleh to take effect upon the other; and his
hand embellished with as “iligant” a branch of
“that same” as ever Donnybrook could boast.
His face possessed all the ruby richness so peculiar
to his nation; while his sort of “ ready-fw-uuy-
tiling” attitude conveys an admirable idea of the
native activity and archness of a “ broth of a boy.”
It was stated that the ladies of Santa Cruz paid
particular attention to this saint, as conveying to
them a combined notion of the “sublime and
beautiful.”

Our gentlemen did not get on board before
day-light, and some of them met with trifling
losses, such as a sword, a hat, &c. which in
those days of general volunteering must have been
desirable prizes. The defences of this place,
which baffled the daring genius of our Nelson
and deprived him of an arm, were at this time in
a state of dilapidation; but were it not so, they
could never prevent a landing from a good sea-
force, because the shores are everywhere ap-
proachable within pistol—shot, at which distance
no battery can withstand a line-of-battle ship’s
broadside.

DEVIATION OF THE COMPASS. 17

The situation of the town appears badly
chosen, as regards anchorage for ships, the com-
munication with the shore, and obtaining water;
in all which particulars the next bay, about a
mile to the eastward, has great superiority.

All these islands have considerable trade with
England, which is much more to their interest
than a connection with Spain.

The winds were very light the whole time
of our stay, and the last two days the weather
was so thick that we could not see the Peak, nor
any. point sufficiently remote for our observations
on the deviation of the compass.

March 20, at four P. M. we weighed, and at five
received our officers and their instruments. The
Barracouta sailed two hours before us, and pro-
ceeded direct for our next rendezvous at the
Island of Sal, one of the Cape de Verd islands.

“Thenever we were at sea it was our practice
to exercise a part of the crew every evening at
small—arms, at reefing sails, and to see that every
man was clean and sober at his quarters, and as
this practice was always continued when circum—
stances of weather or service did not interfere,
it will not be necessary again to make the remark.

In shaping our course for Sal, we steered south—
west (a half west), being half a point more to the
westward, than the course should have been, had
the compass been uninfluenced by the local at-
traction of the ship, or by what is called de—
viation. The Barracouta shaped her’s without
regard to this deviation, which in her was full

VOL. I. C

18 EAGLEs

one point on the south-west: the consequence
was, that she was carried considerably to the
eastward of her direct course, which prevented
her reaching Sal until two days after our arrival.
This is mentioned to show the probability that
many of the extraordinary currents said to be
found in the ocean do not exist; or rather that
the discrepancies between the observations and
dead reckoning may as frequently be attributed
to the unthought-of deviation of the compass
as to other occult causes.

On the 25th we were joined by the Barracouta
in Mordeira bay of Sal, where we caught a great
many most delicious fish. This place is of con-
siderable extent, yet produces little else but salt
and orchilla; a few goats contrive to pick up a
scanty subsistence, but eagles are particularly
abundant. .

The means by which these birds obtain their
subsistence is strange and apparently an infringe-
ment upon the just laws of nature, for, the place
being totally devoid of any animal produc-
tions suited to their food, they were necessarily
much puzzled to make “both ends meet,” as
.our housewives say. They saw the sea-birds
enjoying themselves and getting fat by their
aquatic excursions. But the lordly eagles could
not stoop to fish even for a livelihood; in fact
they have an objection to wet feet. Every effort
to obtain their winged neighbours was vain on
account of their superior fleetness and activity;
they soon however discovered that the terror of

EXPERIMENTS WITH ROCKETS. 19

their pursuit induced the little divers to relinquish
their ocean prey; and now, seated on a rock, they
watch them following their finny victims until
successful, when they commence their flight to
land. The eagle immediately gives chase—the
terrified bird drops his spoil, which the piratical
pursuer seizes for his own use—thus on this
inhospitable spot supporting his lordly character
by making the weaker of his own species ad-
minister to his will.

Our object in visiting these islands was to
verify the longitude of their different points as
determined by the Leven during her former
survey.

Having landed our astronomers and botanist,
an experiment was arranged to be made with the
rockets for the purpose of measuring the meridian
distance between Sal, St. Nicholas, and St.Vincent,
three of the Cape de Verd Islands, to effect which
Monte Gardo, eighty geographical miles from
Sal and forty from St. Vincent, was fixed upon
as the intermediate point for the rockets to be
fired; the Barracouta was left in Mordeira bay
for three days, and Lieutenant Owen from the
Leven remained with her to carry on the astro-
nomical observations.

We sailed in the evening of the 27th, and next
morning landed Captain Lechmere, Lieutenant
lVIudge, who had charge of the party, Mr. Forbes,
the botanist, Mr. Ewing, the gunner, Mr. Phil-
lips, the interpreter, and some hands, to proceed
to the summit of Monte Gardo, a perpendicular

C 2

20 MR. FORBES’S NARRATIVE.

height of 4200 feet, about ten miles from the
beach where they were landed.

Although the west point of the island is com-
pletely sheltered from the prevailing trade winds,
yet the rollers and surf were so heavy that our
party were obliged to pass through the latter;
the only damage they sustained, however, was
getting wet, as they contrived to land their in-
struments, chronometer, provisions, and rockets,
uninjured; and they were not long in getting
their clothes dry, by stripping and spreading
them upon the beach, which was so hot that they
could not walk upon it without their shoes.

As soon as the boat returned, we proceeded to
St. Vincent, and landed Lieutenant Vidal and
Messrs. Gibbon and Browne, at a small cove on
the north side of that island, leaving them the
jolly-boat to return to the ships in Porto Grande,
on the north—west side, where we anchored in the
evening before sunset.

As the proceedings of the St. Nicholas party
possess some interest, the following account is
extracted from the narrative of Mr. Forbes, the
botanistz—a-

“ As soon as dressed we divided ourselves into
two parties to look for asses to carry the baggage.
Captain Lechmere and Mr. Mudge found a single
hut, under a projecting rock at the bottom of a
deep ravine; the only inhabitant seen was a
woman, who screamed violently, and ran off at
full speed. The news of our landing being thus
announced, anegro soon joined the party, who,

MR. FORBES’S NARRATIVE. Qil

being informed of our wants, left us, and in two
hours returned with about a dozen asses and as
many men to drive them, with whom we agreed
to take us to the summit of Monte Gardo, from
whence it was intended to fire our rockets.

“ On our way we passed the village of Praya
Branca, (the white plain,) and pitched our tents
a little above it, in an enclosure amongst some
trees of euphorbium and jatropha. Every crea-
ture in the village came forth to see us, and
perhaps it was the first time that most of them
had ever beheld a white man. It was sunset before
we got ourselves in order, when, having eaten a
moderate supper from the provisions brought
with us, we were all soon asleep.

“ Praya Branca has about thirty stone-built
houses, thatched with reeds: the scenery, being
on the side of a stupendous mountain, is both
picturesque and magnificent; a small stream of
water issues from it near our encampment, and
supplies the village: numerous bananas and pa-
payas are planted on the borders of the brook,
and cassada and vines on the banks of the valley;
these latter grounds are so laid that they can
be irrigated, for which purpose the soil is sup-
ported on its different levels by stone walls about
three feet high. At the spot where irrigation
may be required, a temporary dam is made across
the brook, and the water trained into it in the
rudest manner; being turned into the upper level
first, it passes from one to the other, until the
whole is saturated. The vines are planted as at

22 MR. FORBES’S NARRATIVE.

Madeira, and with a similar trellis, about two or
three feet above the surface to train them on.
Sugar-canes are cultivated in small quantities,
but apparently merely to be used in their natural
state, as it did not appear that any sugar was ma-
nufactured. Bread is made from Indian corn,
or maize, and cassada flour.

“ I had walked out in the morning to collect
plants and seeds, and, on my return, found that
we could not have asses farther on our journey,
nor any assistance from the village, until an order
should be received from the Governor. A person
had been dispatched to his house, a distance of
about twelve miles, to inform him of our arrival
and the object of our visit, but was not expected
to return for some hours, the road being of the
most miserable description, as we afterwards found
by experience.

“ It was intended to fire the rockets from the
summit of Monte Gardo in the evening, but the
place was still ten miles off, and it was doubtful
whether, when the asses came, they could travel the
road. We therefore divided the baggage, tent, and
rockets amongst us, and resolved upon a pedes-
trian excursion. Our path lay up a narrow ra-
vine, in many places almost perpendicular, and
across bare rocks, where we were obliged to crawl
upon our hands and knees. The thermometer
was 95° in the shade, and scarcely a breath of
wind, so that we had not proceeded far before
several of our party found it impossible to carry
their loads: seeing two men at work in a vine-

MR. FORBES’S NARRATIVE. 23

yard we hailed them, and they were induced, for
a trifling remuneration, to bear some of our bur—
dens. Still we were obliged to leave many things
behind us, with instructions to have them for—
warded so soon as the messenger should return
with the Governor’s permission, of which having
no doubt, we had thus far anticipated it.

“ When we had proceeded about a mile and
a half we stopped at a small spring, jetting from
the side of the mountain, where I obtained several
pretty plants with the assistance of a man that
had been gathering orchilla, who had a long stem
of reed, (armada (10720.23) about sixteen feet long,
and a piece of wood at the end, with which he
scratched them from the inaccessible parts of the
rock.

“ We reached the top of the first ravine about
one o’clock, where we rested after our fatiguing
ascent, by a road worse and worse, and the day
hotter and hotter, at every step. From the point
where we halted the view was magnificent; it
overlooked three very considerable valleys, sur-
rounded on every side by stupendous, steep, and
rugged mountains, along which it was a novel
but pleasing sight to observe the clouds rolling
like billows over each other beneath our feet.

“From hence the road gradually improved, un-
til our arrival in a village at the foot of Monte
Gardo; this place is named Ribeira de Calhao,
and consists of about a dozen dwellings, similar
to those of Praya Branca. We formd the natives
extremely civil, poor, and kind; they sold us

24 MR. FORBES’S NARRATIVE.

milk, eggs, bananas, papaws, and sugar-cane, of
which we ate heartily; we also hired two asses
to carry the baggage and water.

“ Our road was now much better than it had
been, although the day was hotter; part of it lay
through a wood of eup/zm‘bium balsamifera: in
three hours we reached the summit, and were not
a little rejoiced to see a man following with our
tent and the baggage we had left behind.

“ The summit of Monte Gardo does not form
a peak like many of the smaller ones on the same
island; but, in this last stage, the ascent was
tolerably regular and even, and appeared the same
on all sides: this circumstance gives it a fuller
and more robust appearance, and hence its name,
The Fat Mountain.

“ It is composed entirely of volcanic soil, so
fragile and porous that, when taken up in lumps,
they fall to pieces with their own weight, like
cinders loosely caked together.

“ It is well clothed with vegetation, even to
the summit—~the euphorbium balsamz'fera growing
about 3700 feet above the level of the sea and no
higher; the bupflmlmmn sericeum and several
others quite to the top. The prospect of the
island from this elevated spot is calmly beau-
tiful, a quiet and rustic scene, diversified only
by a few humble dwellings, which distance
showed in their brightest colours : fancy pictured
them the abode of peace and cleanliness, but,
like many speculations of that pleasing visio-

 

MR. FORE ES’S NARRATIVE. 25

nary, the charm was broken upon a nearer ac-
quaintance.

“ We measured the height by barometer 4380
feet. The tent was pitched upon a little piece of
flat ground, under shelter of a rock, but the earth
on the summit. was so dry, and the wind so
strong, that between being nearly blinded and
half choked with the dust we got but little sleep :
our discomforts were also considerably increased
by the thermometer being at 45°.

“ The sky was too cloudy for the experiments
with the rockets, which Mr. Diudge therefore
deferred.

“ During the night our slumbers were most dis-
agreeably interrupted by the sudden disarrange-
ment of our tent; this was occasioned by the soil
refusing to hold the pegs with which it was fas-
tened, in opposition to the wind, and in conse-
quence down came the whole construction upon
our wearied bodies: with great difficulty we got
it again rehoisted, and were enabled to resume
our rest.

“In the morning we went down to Ribeira
de Calhao to breakfast, which consisted of tea,
sugar, (which we furnished,) and goat’s milk, all
boiled together in an iron pot, and drunk out of
calabashes, earthenware appearing almost un-
known in the island of St. Nicholas. I employed
the day in botanizing round the summit of the
mountain as far down as the village; but, as
this was not the season for flowers, I found very

26 MR. FORBES’S NARRATIVE.

few specimens which I considered worthy of pre-
serving; in fact, the principal verdure of the is-
land appeared in the euphorbium, which seldom
attains a greater height than ten or twelve feet,
and is used by the inhabitants for fuel. They
here make a soap from the oil of the jatropha,
Caucus nuts, and ashes of the burnt papaw-tree
leaf; the oil and ashes are mixed in an iron pot,
heated over a fire, and stirred until properly
blended. When cool it is rolled up into balls,
about the size of a six-pound shot, looking much
like our mottled soap, and producing a very good
lather.

“ At night, although the atmosphere below us
was not altogether so free from clouds as could
have been desired, Mr. Mudge thought it suffi-
ciently clear, and we commenced letting off the
rockets at one in the morning, which we con-
tinued until half-past three. One of them car-
ried a parachute light, which hung suspended
above the summit of Monte Gardo, at the height
of 6000 feet, upwards of six minutes. But the
points from which they were to have been ob-
served were themselves enveloped in the dense
haze usual in tropical countries during the dry
season, and neither the party at Sal, nor that on
St. Vincent’s, saw any of these rockets. Although
we failed in the object intended, viz. the exact
measure of difference of time, they had the effect
of terrifying the inhabitants of St. Nicholas, many
of whom, at some miles distance, ran from their
houses in the. belief that a volcano was bursting

MR. FORBES’S NARRATIVE. ‘ 27

forth on the top of Monte Gardo, and even those
who had seen our preparations, and were inform-
ed of our purpose, were scarcely less terrified.
The night was still, and the sound of the large
rockets was heard more than twelve miles off.

“ All our baggage was carried down to Praya
Branca in the course of the day, and the tent
once more pitched in its valley, under some ba-
nana-trees.

“ In the morning we received a note from the
Governor, requesting us to pay him a visit before
leaving the island, and most kindly offering any
assistance we might require ; but, as our time did
not admit of this, we requested him to order some
asses for our baggage, nine of which joined us at
Praya Branca, which we left about eight o’clock
in the morning of the '31st, and descended by a
much better road than that by which we had
come three days before. At eleven o’clock we
heard the signal gun for us from the Barracouta,
which about noon, upon our arrival on the beach,
we answered, and, as the weather was fine and
sea smooth, we had little difficulty in our embar—
cation.”

28 ARRIVAL IN PORTU GRANDE.

CHAPTER II.

Arrival in Porto Grande.——Joined by the Barracouta.——Tanafal
Bay.—Leaving the Bay.—-Trinidada.—Geographical fallacy.
—A French squadron.——The Cockburn steam-boat.-—Deser_
tion, of seamen—Country around Rim—Extracts from the
Journal of Mr. John Forbes—Vegetation at Rio.—Public
Garden.——Peculiar oranges—Bow Fogo.——Botanical garden.
v—Excursion by waten—Porto d’Estrella.—-lVIr. LangsdorfF's
house.—A little Colony.——Thc Araucanian pine—Museum
of Natural History.

On the Leven’s arrival in Porto Grande, we
sent on shore to the few houses called a town, at
the bottom of the bay, to inform the Governor
who we were and what were our wishes. We
could only find one miserable Portuguese, the
rest being all negroes; but most of them appeared
free. The Whole population did not exceed a
hundred, without any plantations near their
houses, as the soil is so very dry and sterile ; but 011
the sides of the mountains, in parts where there is
water, they are said to have some good gardens.
Indigo grows everywhere wild ; and with it they
dye the coarse cloths, which they manufacture
from cotton which (if ever planted by them)

JOINED BY THE BARRACOUTA. 29

appears to be left entirely to Nature’s cultivation
and care.

We pitched a tent upon the beach; cleaned a
well in a ravine, which, during the rainy season
is a water-course; then landed the woman and a.
party to wash. During our stay, the sea-breeze
every day blew furiously over the hills to the
north-east of our anchorage; and although the
whole bay is nearly landlocked, yet the surf is
very high all round, except in one spot near the
town. \Ve therefore only embarked a ton and a
half of bad water, and caught a few fish.

Sunday Blst, Lieutenant Vidal, and Messrs. Gib-
bons and Browne, joined in the hookey from St.
Vincent’s; and on the following day theBarracouta,
from St. Nicholas, with our Monte Gardo party.
She brought intelligence of an unfortunate accident
which had happened to Lieutenant Reitz, who,
whilst standing on an immense mass of rock,
taking observations, suddenly found his footing
begin to tremble; in some alarm, he attempted to
retreat, but before he could do so, the whole fabric
fell with him into the abyss beneath. It is sur—
prising that he was not dashed to atoms, although
it is true he suffered severely, having a leg dread-
fully shattered, and numerous bruises upon other
parts of the body. It afterwards appeared that
this stone was, by some action of nature, placed
upon an exact balance, the one half projecting over
the cliff, and the other resting upon the main land.
The weight of Lieutenant Reitz was suflicient to
give a bias, when the whole fabric “ toppled down
headlong.”

30 TA NAFAL BAY.

We weighed and followed the Barracouta,
coasting the shores of St. Antonio, not more
than five hundred yards from the beach, which is
a narrow strip'of sand, under steep and jutting
rocks twelve hundred feet in height. The road-
stead is open; but as the wind scarcely ever blows
home against the steep cliffs which are so close to
the vessels, the anchorage is generally considered
safe. Our object here was to obtain water, and
to measure the meridian distance.

As this watering place of Tanafal bay is one of
the most convenient for that purpose amongst
the Cape de Verd Islands, a slight description of
it may be desirable. From the high mountains
over the bay a small stream descends which is
never dry ; on the first level spot a large pond has
been formed as a reservoir to receive the stream,
with a sluice to conduct it to the sands between
the flat and the beach, which is a gradual descent :
the flat may be about sixty or seventy feet above
the level of the sea, and is generally moist and
cool. In the vicinity of the pool is a fine plan-
tation of bananas, papayas, &c., and in the lower
sandy grounds a cotton plantation, with some
trees of the asclepz'as procem. Just above the
beach is a well, and, when the water is let off
from the pool, all the soil between it and the well
must be saturated before any can arrive at the
latter. The reservoir, it appears, was formed with
a view to water the plantation only, but the crews
of the small trading vessels which take off the
orchilla mossdug the well below, rather than

LEAVING THE BAY, 31

have the trouble of going to the poo]. Three
huts are used as orchilla stores for Mr. Martinez,
who farms that weed.

The negroes at first mistook our vessels for
privateers, and would not, therefore, assist us in
obtaining water. We were, consequently, oblig-
ed to employ our own people to keep it turned
into the pool, and to open the sluice to obtain
our supplies, which were completed in the course
of a day, and the next morning we sailed for St.
Jago. In going out of the bay the wind was
light, and we warped out by sending a stream.
anchor a-head, with two hawsers on end, where
it was thrown overboard, the boat having had
a depth of thirty-five fathoms the instant before;
but it appeared to have fallen over a precipi-
tous cliff, similar to that which lined the beach
half a mile within it, for the anchor would
have carried out cable, seemingly, as long as
we would have veered it, and the boat could
get no soundings with sixty fathoms: the conse-
quence was, that the hawser was cut through at
thirty or forty from the anchor and lost. We
inferred from this that the superstructure of this
volcanic island was quite similar to that below the
surface of the water; in short, that it was but the
summit of an immense mountain, whose base may
be as far below the surface as if it were an iceberg.
As the highest mountain of St. Antonio is eight
thousand feet high, and as the mean height of
the island may be taken at fifteen hundred,
the base may be three or four miles deep. But as

32 TRINIDADA.

these speculations constituted no part of the object
of our voyage, we made the best of our way to
Porto Praya.

We were caught between the islands with a
calm and thunder squalls, so that we did not get
into Porto Praya until the 5th. In the morning
we obtained equal altitudes on Quent Island,
procured some stock, and at eight o’clock in the
evening sailed for Rio J aneiro.

On the 25th we made the rocks of Martin Vas.
The Barracouta passed through them, and we
. made sail for Trinidada. On the 26th, the two
vessels coasted that island, which, except at the
south-east bay, appeared but a mass of rocks.
Many voyagers have described it as having plenty
of water and wild hogs, but no good anchorage.
We found Peyrouse’s longitude near forty-five miles
in error: in short, his chronorneters must have
been bad. The Ninepin Rock, on the west side
of the island, appears to be a basaltic column of
eight hundred feet in height, and is very remark-
able from a slight inclination in its position, which
makes it look, from certain points, as if about to
fall. A few stumps of euphorbia, and some other
shrubs, were scattered over its otherwise barren
soil, the neighbourhood of South-east Bay
alone bearing an appearance of fertility; but we
could not observe any signs of inhabitants.

Several vessels have at different times been
wrecked upon this island, and its situation has
been laid down with so much uncertainty, that
two islands are described near each other under

GEOGRAPHICAL FALLACY. 33

the names of Ascensfio and Trinidada. One ob-
ject of Peyrouse‘s voyage appears to have been to
establish whether the first-named did exist or
not, and he decided clearly in the negative. Cap-
tain Owen, however, ran down the parallel to
establish the point with more certainty, parti-
cularly as it has, since that navigator’s time,
been positively stated to exist. At Rio he ob-
tained the journal of a Whaler, the Swan of
Shields, which most decidedly asserted its exis-,
tence. This ship, during a whaling voyage, had
fallen in with an island, at which she watered, in
longitude 37" west, or near eight and a half west
of Trinidada: a pen—and—ink sketch of the ap-
pearance of the island had so striking a resem-
blance to T rinidada in the point of view assumed,
that there could be no doubt of their being the
same.

It may be asked what inducement the master
of a Whaler could possibly have for such a de-
ception ? The answer is easy. He fell in with
an island, and his estimated latitude and longitude,
carried to Hamilton Moore’s table, pointed out
Ascensao as that most nearly agreeing with it,
and he was himself deceived; but, in making
Cape Frio afterwards, and discovering that his
longitude difi'ered 8" from that assigned to the
Cape, he determined not to permit such a re—
cord of his bad reckoning to meet too suddenly
the eyes of his owners or others with whom his
reputation as a navigator might be of import-
ance.

VOL. 1. n

s\/

34 A FRENCH SQUADRON.

The general appearance of the island is rocky
and barren, but we observed in some places
symptoms of vegetation. Near the Ninepin Rock
are two streams of water, but a tremendous
surf was breaking on the shore near them, and
the place altogether presented so forbidding an
aspect, that we were not tempted to remain for
watering or any other purpose.

On the 30th of April we made Cape Frio,
when we encountered a heavy gale of wind dead
on shore during the night, and the next day ar-
rived at Rio Janeiro, where we found his Ma-
jesty’s ship Aurora, Captain I-I. Prescott; also
a French squadron, under the command of Com-
modore the Baron Roussin, consisting of the
Amazone, one of the largest class frigates, with a
round stern, two other frigates, a store ship, and
a schooner. This squadron was employed ostensi-
bly on a survey of the coasts of Brazil, and, as some
of their work was published, the Baron presented
Captain Owen with a copy. He had also been
surveying a part of the coast of Africa, but had
overlooked the river Ouro, into which the Leven
afterwards sailed; of this river Lieutenant Vidal
gave the Baron a copy to add, if he wished, to
the French charts.

Our principal object at this place was to pur-
chase a small vessel for a tender and transport,
as the Leven could not stow more than suffi-
cient provisions for four months’ consumption on
full allowance, while the Barracouta had not

THE COCKBU RN STEAM-BOAT. 35

stowage fo1 tlnee months, without cauying it
upon deck. As the voyages which would be ne-
cessary to obtain supplies would very much re—
tard our operations, and as neither of the vessels
were calculated for river navigation, Captain Owen
purchased an American steam-boat for a trifling
sum, which he named the Cockburn, in honour of
the Admiral Sir George, one of the Lords of the
Admiralty, and she was put under the command
of Mr. R. Owen, the junior lieutenant : the equip-
ment of this vessel for sea detained us until the
9th of June She was 160 tons bulthen, and drew
under eight feet w atel, u as schooner—rio g,ged and
could be \1 orked with few hands.

The Creole, Commodore Sir Thomas M. Hardy,
the Lifi‘ey, Commodore Grant, for the East In-
dies, and the Andromache, Commodore Nourse,
for the Cape of Good Hope station, were all
here, but the two latter sailed about a week be-
fore us.

‘Ve employed four boats for a few days to
survey a part of the great harbour of Rio J aneiro,
and Lieutenant Vidal with great difficulty land-
ed on Raza, where he remained six days to get
observations for the situation of the new light-
house being erected there.

The desertion of seamen at Rio had lately be-
come a great evil ; a regular gang of thieves had
been long established there, composed principally
of desperate English and Irish, who had deserted
from different merchant vessels. Some of these

D 2

36 DESERTION or SEAMEN.

men were contractors for labour with different
planters, who had not suflicient slaves, and indeed
could often, by means of these wretches, get what
they called free labour much cheaper.

On the arrival of' any vessels they find their
way on board, paint in glowing colours the
wealth and pleasures awaiting free-men on the
shores of Brazil, and too commonly succeed in
inveigling away most of the crews of merchant-
men, and many from ships of war; and the chance
of recovering them in so vast a country is but
small.

Above twenty of our men, principally the
smugglers and inalefactors, embarked, by what
must be considered a very mistaken policy, on board
our ships of war, deserted at different times; but
Captain Owen determined if possible to recover
them, not so much for their value, as to put a
stop to the mischievous display of love of novelty
and change so common to British seamen; for
which purpose, according to the letter of our
treaties, he demanded the aid of the police, which
he obtained to cover our proceedings.

Our midshipmen, under the direction of Lien-
tenant, now Commander Mudge, scoured the
whole country for thirty miles in every direction,
and from the neighbouring plantations recovered
not only our own men, but many others belong-
ing to different ships.

This was effected solely by the enterprize and
address of our young officers, who also brought on

COUNTRY AROUND R10. 37

board five ringleaders of this gang of desperadoes,
nicknamed Robin Hood, Little John, &c. (See.
these were punished by our crews, marked by
a gallows painted on their clothes, and sent
ashore the morning we sailed.

The country around Rio not only presents the
most varied and majestic scenery, but is en-
tirely a garden of Nature. Every spot, even of the
soil—less rock, is covered with beautiful flowers,
very many of which are not to be found enu—
merated in the general synopsis of botanists. It
would appear that botanical science has suffered
by the diffidence of travellers in this country, who
fearful of multiplying genera, have forced every
new plant they found into that to which it ap-
peared to be most nearly allied; for example,
there are numerous melastomas, rhesias, trades-
canlias, &c. differing very materially in the cha-
racters which are considered essential to them in
the Linnean synopsis.

Our young botanist, Mr. Forbes, was here in—
defatigable in the service of his honourable em—
ployers, the Horticultural Society; he collected
about three hundred specimens for his harms
siccus, besides numerous roots and seeds ; and his
journal during our stay, which is inserted here,
will hardly fail to be read with the interest na-
turally excited by the untimely death of so young
and talented an individual, whose zeal and perv-y
severance would have brought honour upon him-
self and country.

38 EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF MR. FORBES.

“ On entering the harbour of Rio Janeiro, the
mind is at once struck with its magnificence and
beauty. The vast expanse of water bordered with
bright green, the numerous inlets and islands, the
rich verdure of the hills, studded with villas, and
the lofty chain of mountains, form a dark and
distant back-ground, and make altogether a pic-
ture more like the poet’s fancy than a reality of
earth.

“ The town of St. Sebastian is situated on the
left shore of the harbour, in a valley surrounded
by little hills, one of which has a convent and
church upon its summit. The streets are regu-
larly laid out, generally intersecting at right
angles, about twenty-four feet wide, having a
channel down the centre to carry off the filth if
it can; but frequently the water is so deep that
canoes are paddled through the streets for the use
Of passengers. The houses are of various sizes;
those of the merchants and principal inhabitants
are two or three stories high, with balconies to the
windows. These balconies are in fact the general
residence of the inhabitants, who are seen con-
stantly lolling over them and amusing them-
selves by spitting into the streets. The houses of
the lower classes have only one story, with lattice
windows or jalousies that open upwards, and form
a protection from the sun : from these the inmates
are enabled to take a peep at the passers-by, which,
like their more wealthy neighbours, is nearly the
only occupation they indulge in, as all labour in

VEGETATION AT R10. 39

this country is performed by negroes brought
from different parts of Africa, constituting in
fact the greater part of the population. This is
now the principal depot of the slave-trade, and I
was informed that not less than 20,000 were sold
within the last twelve months.

“ I was very anxious to get on shore, and accord-
ingly made every preparation for landing in the
morning, in anticipation of a rich harvest from
the luxurious appearance of the vegetation, al-
though the season was not favourable, being
almost the middle of their winter; notwithstand-
ing which the thermometer was scarcely ever
below sixty—four, and often as high as eighty-
four degrees in the shade.

“ Many plants are not to be met with either in
flower or fruit at this season, which could be ob-
tained with great facility at another; and I had
frequently to regret being obliged to leave some
of the most magnificent foliage for want of their
fructification.

“ In the morning we were waited on by Dr.
Dickson, to whom I had letters of introduction;
he kindly offered Captain Owen, Whose surgeon
he had formerly been in the Cornelia, the use of
rooms in his house in town; but as Captain Owen
did not intend to reside on shore, he very
obligingly gave them to me. Accordingly I
went on shore with the Doctor, and delivered my
letters to Alexander Cunningham, Esq. his Ma-
jesty's Deputy Consul-general in the absence of

40 PUBLIC GARDEN.

Mr. Chamberlain (from whom my letters were),
and from this gentleman I experienced the greatest
kindness and hospitality during my stay.

“ The morning after landing, I waited on Senhor
Leandro de Sacramento, to whom I had letters,
and saw his collections of birds and insects, which
are extensive and well preserved. I also visited
the public garden, which was under his charge,
and was informed that it had been in pretty good
order, and possessed a tolerable collection of
plants, but since the King left St. Sebastian it had
fallen very much into decay. It had been under
his direction five or six months, and was now
greatly improving. The mango-trees in the gar-
den are fine, as are also some of the mesp/n'tus
japom'cus, in a bearing state.

“ The dense foliage of the mango forms an
agreeable shade in hot climates : the leaves are so
numerous and closely set, that the sun’s rays can
scarcely penetrate them; they make a cool and
delightful walk, but afford little shelter against
the heavy rains.

“ I was introduced by Captain Prescott, of the
Aurora frigate, to a Spanish gentleman named
Senhor Gervasio Algarote, who was tolerably
acquainted with the plants in the neighbourhood
of Rio and natural history in general. I made
several excursions with him, and found him very
intelligent. We took a journey of a few miles
into the country, and intended to go much farther,
but I found so many things to attract my attention,

PECULIAR ORANG ES. 41

that I could not proceed any great distance without
leaving much that I Wished to collect; we there-
fore returned laden with new and rare plants.

“ The land here is rich and well cultivated,
and the oranges are perhaps the finest in the
world. There is a peculiarity in the formation
of these not generally known; it consists in the
part where the seeds are formed being re-
moved near the crown, and in some instances
outside the pulp, but beneath the rind, giving it,
upon the peel being removed, the appearance of
two oranges. The part containing the seed is
a kind of excrescence into which is drawn the
fibre, and in fact all the objectionable portion of
the fruit, leaving the legitimate production free
from every impurity and rendering it the most deli-
cious of its kind; The esculent vegetables are not
numerous, and those that are grown are far from
being fine; although with proper attention I have
no doubt but most of those cultivated in England
would succeed. \Vater cresses and lettuces are the
only vegetables grown as salad; the radishes are a
kind of degenerated turnip-radish, and their cab—
bage and cole are also of a poor description, never
forming a head. Bananas, papaws, pumpkins,
cucumbers, tomatoes, of many varieties, with most
of the other tropical fruits, are in abundance.
The vines in general are not good, their culture for
wine being forbidden by the common colonial
policy, which has so long disgraced Europe by
pretending to legislate for Nature. Pineapples, I
was informed, were very fine at the proper season,

42 ‘ BOTO FOGO.

but those I tasted were greatly inferior to many
produced in England.

“ I went to Boto Fogo, about three miles from
the city in a southerly direction ; it is one of those
beautiful inlets of which there are so many in the
harbour of Rio Janeiro, and is the residence of
many of the principal families, particularly the
English merchants, who all have Villas, either in
the neighbourhood of Boto Fogo or Gloria. The
scenery is extremely fine, commanding a View of
the mouth of the harbour. Before vessels cross
the bar, they are seen by the inhabitants of Boto
Fogo, and again when they get inside the har-
bour, after passing the Sugar-loaf, and the three
forts that command the entrance. Close to the
back of these houses are the lofty mountains of
the Curcuvado, with all their rich and beautiful
scenery, forming wild and luxuriant landscapes.

“ I here delivered my letters to Brigadier-General
the Chevalier Gomez, who treated me with great
kindness, and appointed the following \Vednesday
for our meeting at the Botanical Garden, of which
he had the management.

“ Colonel Cunningham also took me to see the
collection of insects belonging to Mr. Binns, a
merchant. I found them extensive and well
preserved, especially the orders of Zepidoptem,
nemiptem, and 7mm'0pte7'a.

“ The heat was great, with a sky clear and
cloudless, and scarce a breath of wind; the ther-
mometer being at eighty-four degrees in the
shade.

 

BOTANICAL GARDEN. ‘ 43

“ 1 next made an excursion along the aqueduct,
or covered water-course, that supplies the city ; it
is a pleasant walk, and commands many fine
and extensive views. The land in this direction
is good, but-very little of it, comparatively speak-
ing, cleared of the wood. I caught several species
of insects, but they, as well as the birds, were
much hunted after by some French collectors, of
whom I met at least half-a-dozen in my day’s
walk.

“ Agreeably to appointment, I rode out to the
Botanical Garden, with Mrs. Cunningham and
Miss Hayne, Captain Owen, Captain Cutfield
Colonel Cunningham, Mr. N usherty, and several
others. The garden is situated three miles and a
half from Boto Fogo, and six or seven from the
city, at the foot of the Curcuvado mountain, on
the south-east side, at the corner of a bay or inlet
that is open to the main sea at certain seasons of
the year. The road is partially good. I found
many new plants, particularly the contretum
laa'um, with its golden flowers; and a space of
ground near the beach, at least half an acre, en-
tirely covered with the magnificent meniscium da-
ripslum.

“ Upon our arrival at the garden, we were very
kindly received by the Brigadier-General, who had
reached it some time before us. I immediately
proceeded to collect specimens of every thing I
wished, having previously received permission so
to do. -

“ The garden consists of about four acres, and

44 BOTANICAL GARDEN.

one of tea plantation; it is laid out in regular
squares, with straight walks, and kept in good
order. The chief trees are some particularly fine
of the bread and Jack fruit; also the clove,
which only grow in the more sheltered situations,
chocolate-nut, cinnamon, camphor, arotha, and
some of the alcm’iz‘cs triloba. Plants indigenous
to the country are not cultivated, the object.
appearing to be the introduction of those from
foreign climates, while the equally or perhaps
more splendid ones of Rio are totally neglected.

“ The ground appropriated for the cultivation
of tea, which is under the management of a
Chinese, brought from China for the purpose,
appeared in a bad state, the plant looking stunted
and unhealthy, and evidently much injured by
the weeds that were choking it in every di~
rection.

“ VVe were provided with an excellent pic-nic
dinner by the General and Mr. Cunningham. I
laid out all the specimens obtained in the garden,
as well as several Captain Owen and myself had
collected in some adjoining ground, which afforded
nearly as great a variety as the garden itself.
These were not so rare to the Brazilians as the
Oriental species, yet almost as interesting to me;
for many of them were entirely new, while most
of the others were familiar, excepting the clove,
which is a beautiful shrub. The bread-tree I had
never seen in fruit before ; it has a very noble ap—
pearance when full of hanging fruit, but I cannot
say much forits masticatory qualities, as it is a

EXCURSION BY WATER. 45

poor substitute for bread, and as a vegetable is by
no means equal to a good yam, or potato, although
far from unpleasant: many of the party liked
it much. \Ve left the garden a little before sun-
set, greatly to my annoyance, as I was not enabled
to procure specimens of the plants I had seen in
the morning, which I had intended to do on my
return.

“ I next visited the Braganza, or eastern side of
the harbour, in company with Dr. Osborne, where
the scenery is not so fine as near the city, the land
being sandy, but moderately well cultivated, pro-
ducing cassava, sugar-cane, rice, and a great quan-
tity of fine oranges.

“For some days I was occupied in drying and
arranging my specimens, many of which I found
the small ants had very much injured, particu-
larly the seeds that were of a pulpy nature; these
insects swarm in almost all the houses at Rio and
its neighbourhood, and devour every thing eat-
able that comes in their way.

“ Having made an appointment with Mr.Langs-
dorff' to go to his estate at Mandivea, on the 17th,
I went in company with Mr. Langsdorffi Captain
Lechmere, and Dr. Osborne. We embarked in a
boat that Mr. Langsdorff had provided to go up the
harbour to Porto d’Estrella ; there being very little
wind, the men were obliged to row most of the
way. VVe proceeded gently up the harbour, and
passed by the numerous islands of Governador, or
Governor’s Islands, Illa d‘Agua, or VVater Island,
Illa Seca, or Dry Island, and many others. The
first of these is of the same size as St. Helena, the

46 PORTO D’ESTRELLA.

second a little smaller, and all covered with palm—
trees.

“ We arrived at the top of the harbour about
five o’clock, after a pleasant voyage, amidst beau—
tiful scenery. The entrance to the river, upon
getting out of the harbour, is not very good, with
only three or four feet water, and unless the boat-
men are well acquainted with the navigation, one
has a chance of getting on the mud, and of stick-
ing there for eight or ten hours.

“ This river is from twenty to thirty yards wide,
and from three to four fathoms deep. For two
miles up, the banks are low and the land marshy,
after which they are higher, and the country
more diversified.

“ We arrived at Porto d’Estrella about eight
o’clock. The influence of Mr. Langsdorfl' procured
us lodgings for the night at the house of one of
the principal people of the village, who treated us
.Very hospitably ; but the beds in this country are
not made for cold weather—~a mat and sheet is
generally all their covering; and upon this occa-
sion, although all my clothes were on, I never
suffered so much from cold in my life. Having
unfortunately left my cloak, with the rest of my
things, in a warehouse that was locked up, and
could not be got at, I was obliged to rise to—
wards daylight and walk about the room to warm
myself.

“ This village is chiefly composed of warehouses
by the side of the river. It is a place of consider-
able business; all the goods that come from the

MR. LANGSDORFF’S HOUSE. 47

interior, the mines, St. Paul’s, &c. 011 mules, are
here deposited, until they can be sent down by
boats to St. Sebastian’s, which is only a passage
of twelve hours. Boats of from ten to fifteen
tons burthen, leave every evening at sunset, and
arrive at St. Sebastian’s the next morning by
daylight, most of them being covered over with a
thatch of reeds for the accommodation of pas-
sengers.

“ bAfter getting a had breakfast for a good deal of

money , w e set ofi“, and as w e had only three horses
for four people, myself and the doctor chose to
walk, but we were afterwards obliged to ride, as
much of the way was above our knees in water.
This is the public road to the mines, by which all
the wealth of the provinces is brought down, yet
it still remains in this unfinished state. The country
is vely fine, capable of producing almost every-
thing, yet, comparatively speaking, little of it is
cultivated; the soil is a 1ich loam, mixed with
decayed vegetable" matter or sandy earth, but by
far the greater part of the former.

“XVe arrived at Mandivea, which is about
ten miles from Porto d’Estrella, at three o’clock,
and, after getting some refreshment, took an ex-
cursion into the woods and lands of Mr. Langs-
dorfi‘. The situation of this place is very fine;
the house stands at the foot of the Organ moun-
tains, looking down on a richly wooded and beau-
tiful country. Mr. Langsdorfi‘ cultivates coffee,
sugar-cane, mandioca, cassava, oranges, lemons,
limes, rice, fesongs, (a species of phaseolus, or ra-

48 A LITTLE COLONY.

ther many different species of kidneybeans,) which
stand until they are ripe; the negroes are fed
principally upon them and came secca, or jerked
beef, that is, the bones taken out and dried in the
sun.

“Mr. Langsdorfi“ has formed a little colony
here of Europeans brought from Germany; of
these colonists Mr. Langsdorff’ brought about 200,
but, his terms of agreement being loose and by
far too hard, they left his service almost imme-
diately on their arrival, so that he had not, per-
haps, at that time, more than fifty attached to
him. This Mr. Langsdorff is, it appears, a pen-
sioner of Russia, and is the same naturalist who
landed at St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamtschatka,
from La Peyrouse’s ship.

“ I found several plants here that were new to
me. The Doctor and Captain Lechmere shot
several birds, some of brilliant plumage, amongst
which was the lowia 77zexicana, the crotopkaga, a
species of psiz‘mcus, and several others, that we
were employed most of the evening in skinning.

“ We next made an excursion to the top of the
hill, during which I found a great variety of va-
luable plants: from the summit can be seen the
whole of the beautiful harbour of Rio J aneiro to
the ocean. About four miles from Mr. Langs—
dorff’s house, we stopped at one of the vendas or
public-houses, where he had ordered some re-
freshment to be got for us: this consisted of
stewed fowls, with a considerable portion of
garlic, fesongs, and port wine, which is to be

THE ARAUCANIAN PINE. 49

got at all these vendas tolerably good. After
this meal none of the party seemed willing to go
farther to see the Araucania (pine), which grows
on the top of the hill; so, Mr. Langsdorff having
procured me a horse, I set off alone, and, after
riding about two miles, came to that stately tree,
like an immense candelabrum, the branches grow-
ing out horizontally, with tufts of small branches
at the ends. This tree, which is about seventy
feet high, measured twelve feet in circumfer-
ence. ‘ There are two or three small ones grow-
ing near it, about twenty or thirty feet high,
the offspring of this majestic sire. On our way
back, Mr. Langsdorff informed us that the height
of this part of the mountain by barometrical mea-
surement was 5000 feet, and the soil excellent to
the very summit. The following day we left
Mr. Langsdorfl' and returned to the city. During
several days I made short excursions into the
country, and along the shores of the bay, adding
to my collection.

“ I had also prepared some boxes of specimens,
and went on board the Beaver, Captain M‘Lean,
to know if she would take them to England for
me. The answer I received was, that she was
“going to take dollars and so could not.” The
Captain of the Beaver was a nephew of the First
Lord of the Admiralty, and a very young man.

“ I took an opportunity to visit the Museum,
which is situated in a retired part of the town, and is
kept very clean and neat: the collection of quadru—
peds is by no means extensive ; the birds are much

VOL. I. E

50 THE MUSEUM.

more numerous, and include some very fine Speci-
mens ; but there are many of one kind, and not so
greata variety as might be expected, nor are they
arranged systematically, but placed without regard
to order in glass-cases. Some of the insects are
very fine, particularly those of the orders coleoptera
and Zepidoptem; but they are also arranged with-
out regard to system, though in the most advan-
tageous situations to please the eye. There are
some very fine skins of snakes, and a great va-
riety of corals. The collection of minerals is very
extensive; the specimens are good and well ar—
ranged: they are the same that Werner once pos-
sessed, and which were purchased by the King
of Portugal. There are also a few shells. We
were in addition much gratified by the specimens
of politeness shown us by the gentlemen under
whose management the museum was placed.”

A MAN ()VERBOARD. 51

CHAPTER III.

A man overboard.—Towing the Cockburn.-—-Arrival at the
Cape—Heavy gales.—Survey of the Peninsula.-—Deserti0n.
—Dangerous error.—VVar of extermination.—-Kaffer inter-
preters—The Cape peninsula.—Barracouta’s proceedings —
The Cape Coast.—Bays and harbours.—Insecurity of Table
Bay.-——Algoa Bay—Port Elizabeth—Loss of the Dodding-
tom—Defective charts—The negro Kafl‘ers.-—The Keis-
kamma Riven—Tribes on the coast—Entrance to the Eng-
lish River.—Senhor Oliva.—Native boats.—-B0undaries.

It is now time to return to our proceedings.
Having remained at Rio J aneiro nearly six weeks,
and completed all the objects of our stay, we
sailed on the 9th of June with a light land-wind.
The Cockburn, steamer, had left before us, and,
on joining her under Raza Island, we found that
her foretop-mast had rolled away. We accordingly
took her in tow and made all sail in company
with the Barracouta.

Our voyage to the Cape of Good Hope was
attended by many disagreeable circumstances and
one melancholy event. On the night of the 14th,
a seaman, James Garson, fell overboard from the

E 2

52 TOWING THE COCKBURN.

jib-boom, which was not discovered until nearly
a quarter of an hour afterwards. We were at the
time towing the Cockburn, and were afterwards
informed that a dreadful scream was heard by her
people, for which, as it was heard no more, our
informants could not account ; and there appears
little doubt that he was run over by the ship
immediately after falling overboard, and did not
rise again until the schooner was passing. There
remained nothing for us but to regret the poor
fellow’s untimely fate; for so long a period had
elapsed before he was missed that any efforts to
save him must have proved fruitless: we had
in addition to this to keep a constant look-out
upon the Cockburn, whose condition was any
thing but agreeable.

On the 22nd the wind became extremely bois-
terous. Captain Owen had before directed the
Lieutenant of the tender to use his own discre-
tion, either in letting go or cutting away his
vessel Whenever he thought she was impelled
through the water with too much velocity; but
by some means he had forgotten, or did not un-
derstand these instructions ; and, fearful of doing
so upon his own responsibility, he and his crew
were for four hours in the most anxious state of
suspense ; their little bark being dragged through
a heavy sea at the rate of eleven or twelve knots
an hour; the timbers groaning and trembling at
every joint until she may actually be said to have
burst. The water then began to pour in at the

ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE. 53

rate of eight feet an hour; but still they neglect.
ed the only remedy that suggested itself of disen-
gaging themselves from the Leven ; and, had not
the immense strain ultimately parted them, their
destruction would have been almost inevitable.
At midnight the cable broke,—-—When the leakage
became considerably lessened. We kept as near to
her as possible during the night, and when in the
morning we were made acquainted with her situa-
tion and could get on board, we were much sur-
prised at her appearance. It soon became evident
that the velocity with which she had been towed,
had caused so much resistance from the water,
that it had burst open the copper, and afterwards
the wooden sheathing at the stern, then for-
cing its way under, torn off half one side and
nearly as much from the other, leaving nothing
but badly caulked planking to keep out the
water: we were however enabled after some diffi-
culty to put‘her into a fit state to continue the
voyage.

On the 7th of July we made land near the
Cape of Good Hope, the weather at the time
being extremely thick. VVe however rounded
the Cape within the Bellows Rock, and passed
over the tail of the reef of rocks running out
from its south-west extremity, over which the sea
was breaking with tremendous Violence. Of this
danger the charts did not give us the least idea.
On the following morning we beat into Simon’s
Bay, and found His Majesty’s ships Andromache,

54 HEAVY (BALES.

Commodore Nourse, Hyperion , Barracouta, Heron,
and Cygnet, in Table Bay; the Cockburn had
also got in during the night.

On the day after our arrival, in a heavy gale of
wind from the north-west the Sarah, private
East India ship, foundered at her anchor in Table
Bay; two merchant vessels were driven ashore,
and the Cygnet narrowly escaped.

Having unmasted and cleared the Cockburn,
we got her on a slip for examination and repair.
Her equipment, in consequence of the serious
accident she had met with, would of itself have
detained us some time, had not the contractor for
the supply of bread broken his engagement, his
excuse being the scarcity of flour. We were
given to understand that he frequently made a
good speculation by paying his fine, and then
taking a new contract on his own terms. “7e,
however, could not get our supplies before the
first week in September. On the 20th of July,
another severe gale of wind from the north-west
blew seven more merchant—vessels on shore in
Table Bay; from which, it would appear, that
most of them were either extremely ill-found in
ground tackle, or grossly mismanaged, the port
being apparently left without any superintendent
to secure these essentials to all vessels entering;
neither is there any establishment of boats to
carry off anchors or cables, even for the relief
of sufferers.

Finding that the equipment of the tender and
the collection of our provisions would occasion

SURVEY OF THE PENINSULA. 55

considerable detention, Captain Owen ordered the
Barracouta to prepare for sea, and on the 3rd of
August she sailed to proceed coastwise to Algoa
Bay, and to determine the latitudes and longi-
tudes of the different points; to take Kafi‘er in-
terpreters on board, and proceed thence to the
Keiskamma and the Kye, and to meet us again
in Algoa Bay, or English river of Delagoa Bay.

This part of the coast was not included in Cap-
tain Owen’s orders for particular survey, but was
considered by seamen to require it not less than
that to which his attention was more particularly
directed.

Our delay induced the Captain to direct Lieu-
tenant (now Captain,) Vidal to take all the junior
officers under his direction and instruction, to
survey the whole peninsula of the Cape, and the
shores of False, Haut, and Table Bays.

All the observations were not completed for
this laborious undertaking before the 10th of Sep-
tember. The scale for this survey, measured as-
tronomically from the Devil’s Peak to the peak
on Cape Point, was 24’ 33” geographical miles of
latitude. We also, by the rockets, measured the
difference of longitude from our station in Simon’s
town to ”that in Gordon Bay. Much precision
was required in obtaining these observations,
as on similar practice depended the perfection of
our future operations.

During our stay here Lieutenant Vidal was
employed in a small boat to survey and delineate
the shore from Cape Hangclip to Gordon Bay,

56 DESERTION.

and returning late was cast ashore to the south-
ward of the latter place and the boat swamped.
As no part of this coast was cleared, or had any
settlers, he and his men were trying for a consider-
able time in the dark to squeeze through the rocks
and bushes to Gordon’s Bay, where a party were
letting of rockets. This disaster was so unfavour-
able a specimen of the service upon which they
were to be employed, as to induce William Smith,
the cockswain, to desert. This man was a few days
afterwards met in Cape Town by the Lieutenant,
who brought him on board, when he confessed
that he ran away from dislike to engaging in so
arduous a service, subject to so much exposure,
varying from the ordinary duties of a seaman,
and without any further reward than if he were
on board a guard-ship in an English port. He
nevertheless afterwards performed many laborious
services without a murmur, until January 1824,
when he died, leaving, it was understood, a young
and respectable wife in England.

Commodore Nourse, with the View of ascertain-
ing positively whether the numerous dangers did
really exist to the southward of the Cape, which
had so long been the terror of navigators; and
having no immediate object 011 which to employ
the Heron, called on Captain Owen to draw up
a memorandum for the necessary research, from
which he founded instructions for Captain Job
Hanmer to proceed with his brig (a fine vessel of
eighteen guns) on that service ; the result of which,
added to the testimony of many other voyagers

DANGEROUS ERROR. 57

may be considered as decisive against the existence
of the Telemaque shoals and other dangers.

The Barracouta was obliged to leave Lieute-
nant Reitz behind, being not yet sufficiently re-
covered from the fracture of his leg; and Mr.
Edward Owen Johnes was appointed to perform
his duty, whilst Mr. Henry Astley Gibbons was to
officiate in the Leven for Lieutenant Richard
Owen, he being in command of the Cockburn.

On the 28th of July, the Arleston, a Whaler,
belonging to Mr. \Vard of London, laden with
sperm oil, arrived in the night, and had nearly
run on the beach of Musemberg; in the morning
she made a signal of distress, and our boats
brought her into Simon’s Bay, all her crew being
ill with the scurvy.

This circumstance is mentioned as a general
caution to seamen visiting the Cape: several
vessels had been lost, as the Arleston had nearly
been, and as the Cockburn was in the month of
April following, by mistaking the northern ex-
tremity of the high-land, seen in the night at
Musemberg, for the south point of Simon’s Bay.
To remedy this dangerous error the late Com-
modore Nourse proposed the erection of a small
light-house on the rock called Noah’s Ark, which
would at all times render the navigation of False
Bay safe and easy, neither of which it ever can
be without some good night—mark or marks.

There are three whale-fishing establishments in
False Bay, viz. in Fishhook, Kalk, and Gordon’s
Bay. The cow whales generally come into all the

58 WAR OF EXTERMINATION.

bays on the coast for still-water and sand, both of
which are said to be necessary to the black whale
in parturition. These shoreestablishments are,
therefore, extremely destructive to the species,
which in consequence has become very scarce,
and although three good Whales will generally
pay all the expenses, they do not now always
succeed in getting that number; whereas, on the
first establishment of the fishery in Kalk Bay, they
sometimes killed upwards of forty in a season.

Much information is already before the world
relative to the interesting colony of the Cape of
Good Hope, which may be said to extend from
Olifant river on the north-west, to the Keiskamma
on the east : coastwise an entire distance of nearly
400 leagues.

Our opportunities of acquiring minute infor-
mation relative to the interior of this and the
other countries we visited were necessarily very
limited. Consequently the few remarks here ven-
tured are offered with diffidence, though, being
made on the spot, they will perhaps be found not
devoid of interest.

The system of warfare pursued on the Eastern
frontier appeared to have for its object the exter-
mination of the native Kaffers from our settle-
ments, so that passing over our boundary was
universally punished by death 0r captivity. As
the peculiar habits of this race rendered them at all
times most unprofitable and dangerous prisoners,
very few were subjected to the latter misfortune.

KAFFER. INTERPRETERS. 59

There were, however, seven of them in cap-
tivity on Robben Island, whom the Government
sent to us for interpreters, on the application of
Captain Owen. Only one of these, named J akot,
spoke a little Dutch, the others nothing but their
native tongue. They were very handsome,
strong, and tall negroes. with habitual freedom
strongly marked in their gait and carriage. When
first received, their gloomy countenances bespoke
their uncertainty as to the purpose for which
they were sent on board ship, a circumstance in
itself considered by them as worse than death;
such is the antipathy and dread of the sea felt by
all the native tribes of South Africa. -

The purposes for which they were embarked
having being explained to them, with the promise
of being set at liberty in their own country if they
behaved well, they were stripped of the greasy
skins, which served them for raiment, and which
were covered with vermin, washed and clothed
in wholesome jackets and trowsers, and in half-
an—hour appeared as much at their ease as if
they had never worn any thing else. They were
placed in difi'erent messes, for the purpose of
making them learn English, but it was soon
found that this arrangement disturbed the do-
mestic economy of our seamen very materially;
for a Kafl‘er, in his natural state, always eats as
long as any thing remains, particularly of flesh,
and some time was occupied in breaking them into
rational feeding. Three were kept in the Leven,

60 THE CAPE PLNINSULA.

two sent to the Barracouta, when she joined us,
and the others put on board the Cockburn ; they
entirely failed as interpreters, but in other respects
they were excellent trustworthy men.

Six other negroes were also selected from the
Government slaves in the dock-yard, natives of
different parts of the Eastern coast and Mada-
gascar, to be used as linguists, all of Whom turned
out most orderly and useful people, and were,
after some time, discharged in their respective
countries, enriched by a considerable accumula-
tion of wages.

The Cape Peninsula may be said to be com-
posed of two mountainous tracts, separated from
each other and from the main by a narrow
isthmus of low sandy plains.

The northern tract is composed of the famed
Table Mountain, that of Constantia and several
others of less note, and contains many very va-
luable estates, particularly those of Constantia
and Haut Bay ; while on the southern range from
Haut and Fish Hook Bays, southward to the
Cape point, there is not one estate valuable for
its productions, although the land is capable of
great improvement in every point of View.

Both the peninsulas of the Cape seem well
adapted to the culture of the vine, which, how-
ever, does not appear to be at all understood: their
grapes for eating are generally excellent, as well
as some of their wine, but much more of it is
bad.

The greater part of the common wine for ex-

BARRACOUTA’S PROCEEDINGS. 61

portation is brought from other parts of the
colony by land-carriage, and pays a considerable
tax before it can be exported, the particulars of
which are not connected with this narrative.
But it is believed that were the Cape wines freed
from vexatious imposts, and were water carriage
commonly available, those of a very good quality
might be exported at a lower price than porter is
now sold in London.

The repairs of the Cockburn were completed
by the 31st of August, when she was imme-
diately equipped and stowed with provisions for
eight months for both vessels. VVe then sailed
for Delagoa Bay, and touched at Algoa Bay on
the way; but, learning that it was uncertain
whether the Barracouta would return to that port,
we continued our voyage until September 27th,
when we came to an anchor in Delagoa Bay,
where it was intended we should await the Barra-
couta’s arrival, an account of whose proceedings
is here extracted from the journal of an officer
on board.

“ We left Table Bay on the 3rd of August,
our intention being to make a general survey of
the South coast of Africa, from Cape Hangclip
to the eastward, as far as the Keiskamma river,
and from thence northward to Delagoa Bay. As
the operations attendant on a coast survey must
depend almost entirely upon the weather, it was
a matter of much importance to secure as much
of the north-west monsoon as possible. This

62 THE CAPE COAST.

wind blows generally in an oblique direction off
the coast, and prevails about the latter end of
September, and was therefore the most favourable
for our operations.

“As all the descriptions of the Cape colony
proceed from persons who followed in the track of
the settlers, and as these apply only to the inland
country, a few observations illustrative of the
coast may be interesting In all parts the approach
for ships is free from danger, with good anchorage-
ground, but, being quite open, it is exposed to the
southern ocean. During both monsoons a heavy
swell sets in-shore, yet there are few points where
boats may not land more than half the year;
and there is no doubt that vessels, properly con—
structed, might carry on a coasting trade with
much safety and advantage: the Government,
however, have not given sufficient attention to
this subject, their only settlements upon this
coast being Port Elizabeth and Kowie river.
There appears, nevertheless, one sure source of
gain open to enterprise in the great bank of La-
gullas, which is equal to that of Newfoundland,
and would probably be as productive a fishing
establishment as any in the world. Salt is de-
structively plentiful, being the principal draw-
back to the fertility of the soil; while a market
for salt fish may be found in every direction, in-
cluding Cape Town, Bourbon, Mauritius, Mozam-
bique, and even India. Not a European fisher-
man is now to be seen excepting the Whalers, and
nothing but .an alteration in the oppressive and

BAYS AND HARBOURS. 63

unjust fiscal laws, to which the poor Malay fisher-
men are now subjected, will induce them to
venture upon this field for speculation. There
are many desirable situations along the south
coast for the establishment of fishing towns ;
amongst them may be enumerated Haut, Table,
Simon’s, and Gordon Bays. To the eastward of
Cape Hangclip is also a large bay, which had es-
caped the notice of navigators until lately disco-
vered by Mr. Walker, a Master in the Navy: the
eastern side of the peninsula of Cape Vachez
offers no less than three good harbours. Between
Mussel and Plettenberg bays is the river Knysna,
an excellent port ; and within sight of the latter,
the Bays of St. Francis and Algoa. From Cape
Padrao, along the eastern coast, are numerous
situations adapted for such establishments. All.
the rivers on this coast are overflowed and their
course lost during the rainy season, when the
rush of water carries off the alluvial and other de-
posits ; these are, however, returned by the con-
stant south—east winds that prevail during the dry
weather, and which then produce bars of sand at
their entrances, making most of them unnavi-
gable for decked vessels, and often dangerous for
boats of common structure, the usual rise of the
spring tides seldom exceeding five feet. This is
also the case on the coast of Portugal, where,
however, much has been effected by science and
industry to remedy the evil.

“ This may not be an improper place to offer a
few remarks on the peninsula of the Cape of Good

64 INSECURITY or TABLE BAY.

Hope, and the improvements which suggest them-
selves for Table and False Bays.

“ At this point of the colony, the population is
already sufficiently numerous to carry any rational
works into effect, and a finer opportunity for the
investment of British capital will not readily be
found.

“ The greatest evil in the situation of Cape Town
is the insecurity of Table Bay as a port; and a

”temptation is thus offered to unprincipled men, who
have ensured their vessels at high premiums, to
choose this spot for the termination of their voyage.
Of the numerous wrecks which occurred in Table
Bay and its vicinity during the term of our voyage,
there was not one, at least where we had the means
of inquiring, which could not be traced either
to extreme ignorance, negligence, or design. The
evil that has been done to the colony by the
frequent recurrence of such events is incalcu-
lable.

“ Many years since, it is said, the Dutch had a
plan for building a pier, which should form Table
Bay into a secure harbour ; this idea has recently
been revived, and several plans for that purpose
have been suggested and made public; but none
are Without objections. It need only be remarked,
that such a work is practicable at a reasonable ex-
pense; and there can be no doubt that it would
quickly repay the speculators, provided the navi-
gation of the port were made the property of a
corporate body, under well-digested rules and re-

ALGOA BAY. 65

gulations. But the first step which appears neces-
sary is to build a lighthouse, either on Noah’s Ark,
or some as convenient spot. It will be needless in
this place to recount the numerous fatal accidents
that have occurred from the want of this, or to
show by argument how much the prosperity of
Cape Town in particular, and of the colony in
general, would be improved by it.

“ The Barracouta was employed thirteen days in
tracing this coast as far as Port Elizabeth, in the
large bay of Algoa, but in that distance two spaces
remained unexamined, which were not completed
until the conclusion of our voyage to the eastward
of the Cape in 1825.

“ Algoa Bay is the name applied to all the coun-
try between Capes Reciffe and Padron or Padrao.
The former is a low point of land, composed of
rocks and a few sandhills: it appears to have been
so named from the sea breaking constantly on a
few scattered rocks about half a mile to the south-
ward. Cape Padrao is from the Portuguese term
for a pillar, one having been erected on it, according
to the early practice of their navigators, by Bar-
tholomew Diaz, in 1486.

“ About three miles north of Cape Reciffe, is the
new town of Port Elizabeth. The Dutch colony
formerly extended no farther eastward than the
Camtoos river, about forty or fifty miles to the
westward; and although there are some scattered
farms to the eastward, all that has been regularly
settled from that place has been undertaken since
the conquest of this colony by Great Britain.

VOL. 1. r

‘ 66 PORT ELIZABETH.

“ Port Elizabeth, being the best sheltered spot on
the coast for six hundred miles from Cape Town,
was very properly considered as a point of great
importance to the colony, and General Donkin,
whilst acting governor, traced out the town, which
was named after Lady Elizabeth, his wife, to
whose memory has been erected a small sea-mark
called her tomb.

“It has before been observed, that the num-
ber of settlers here who are not in the pay of Go-
vernment is very small; the depot for commis-
sariat stores being the only establishment of im-
portance.

“ The bay is open to all winds from south to east;
and many vessels have been wrecked; a circum-
stance which may be attributed principally to
having no seamen established there in charge of
the port duties.

“ The south-east gales generally give a few
hours’ notice, in which time ships may either put
to sea, or prepare to ride out the gale; but for
this latter purpose hempen cables and long scopes
must be used, either with or without the chain-
cables.

“ Near Cape Padrao, on the eastern side of the
bay, are some small rocky islands, usually called
Chaos, a corruption of the Portuguese term Chao,
a descriptive name, meaning “ superficial,” “ flat.”
They are also called Bird Islands, from the nume-
rous sea-birds always found on them, which name
is equally applicable to all islets in these seas.
They are rendered famous by two events ; the first,

LOSS OF THE DODDINGTON. 67

that they were the termination of the voyage of
Bartholomew Diaz, who got thus far eastward
without seeing the Cape promontory ; the second,
of a more modern date, was the loss of the
Doddington East Indiaman, which is said to
have happened on a rock, lying about three
miles to the southward of the Chaos: the dis-
tance of the said rock (which is always covered,
and very small) from the others, where a part
of the crew'and most of the wreck were thrown,
renders it more probable that she ran on the rocks
near the same spot. The people who were saved
remained on these rocks about eight months, and
built themselves a good long-boat, in which they
made a voyage to St. Lucia River, about fifty
leagues to the southward of Delagoa Bay, and two
of their party walked thence to the said bay, and
rejoined their boat in English River, at which
place some of them were received into other ships,
and the remainder, with their boat, made their
voyage to Bombay. An account of this very in~
teresting shipwreck has long been published ; and
since we have visited the places mentioned, the
veracity of every word has been ascertained, so
far as regards the localities. On our visit, how—
ever, the River St. Lucia could not be enter-
ed even by a canoe, its entrance having been
blocked by a dry bar of sand, which, like all the
others on this coast, is annually swept away by
the floods.

“ A whale fishery is established at a convenient
spot about two miles from Elizabeth Town. The

F 2

68 ’ DEFECTIVE CHARTS.

parties who formed this establishment have, it is
said, lately obtained a grant of the Chaos, which
had long been prayed for by the Deal settlers,
who were in a most distressed state.

“ We know but little of the late Dutch voyages,
or the history of the wreck of one of their three-
deckers, near the Twarlkops river, about forty
years since, would furnish some very interesting
particulars.

“ Having remained in Algoa Bay from the 16th
to the 23rd of August, we proceeded to trace the
coast eastward, and had finished it completely by
the latter end of September, when we returned to
Algoa Bay for water, four days after the Leven
had quitted. We again left Port Elizabeth on
the 27th September, and, after a boisterous and
disagreeable passage, made the land a few leagues
to the northward of Delagoa Bay on the 16th of
October; but so defective were the charts and
plans in Captain Cutfield’s possession, that, hav—
ing no marks to guide him, we grounded on
the Barracouta shoals in the middle of the
bay, but fortunately got off without damage,
and next day rejoined the Leven in English
River.

“Before concluding these remarks upon this
coast, it will perhaps be expected that some notice
should be taken of the native inhabitants. The
following may, therefore, be depended upon, being
drawn from authentic sources and personal obser-
vation.

“ All the country to the east and northward of

TIIE NEGRO KAFFERS. 69

the Camtoos River was formerly inhabited by a
race of negroes very distinct from the Hottentots,
and who appear to have peopled it from the north-
ward, generally by the interior, whence they have
spread towards the coast.

“ These negroes were formerly termed by the
Arabs and Portuguese Kaffers, 0r Koffers, mean-
ing literally infidels, or pagans, and the same term
is still used in a general sense by both those
people.

“ When the Dutch first colonized the Cape, all
the country beyond their settlements was, in
conformity with the language of the first disco-
verers, called the country of the Kaffers. But,
from Delagoa Bay to the northward, the names
of places were in early times marked by the Por-
tuguese according to the native phraseology;
whilst, to the southward, where none were known,
the places on the coast received Portuguese names,
and the country is still known under the general
appellation before mentioned, and since Latinized
into Caffraria, which, however, is a term totally
unknown to the natives themselves.

“ By the encroachment of the Dutch colonists
the negro Kafl’ers were driven back from Camtoos
and Sladen Rivers, first beyond the Twarlkops, in
Algoa Bay, and at length to the Great Fish
River. But a system of border war continued
long afterwards, of which Mr. Barrow has given
some interesting anecdotes.

“ To remove this evil, the country beyond the
Great Fish River, as far as the Keiskamma, was

70 WANT or HARBOURS.

ceded to Great Britain by the native chiefs, who
by this cession were acknowledged to have been
the exclusive sovereigns of this territory.

“ From the Keiskamma along the coast to Dela-
goa Bay, the country is still in possession of seve-
ral tribes of these negroes, who have been visited
but little by Europeans. Some Wesleyan mission-
aries have, however, advanced a short distance be-
yond the Keiskamma, but an absolute barrier to
further progress appears to exist in the prejudices
and cruelty of the natives.

‘“ The sea boundary of this country is one of the
most varied and interesting that can possibly be
imagined, presenting every diversity that rich
hills and fertile meadows can produce. It is di-
vided from the interior by a range of mountains
of considerable elevation——— some of the highest
being nearly six thousand feet above the sea.

“ One objection must however be remarked re-
specting this coast, which is its total want of har-
bours ; but to compensate for this deficiency it has
an abundance of rivers, many of which might, at
trifling expense, be made to receive vessels of con-
siderable burden ; amongst them may be men-
tioned the River Kye, or St. John’s, which has
one of the most extraordinary and picturesque
entrances in the world, forming by its abrupt and
perpendicular heights a natural lock, wanting only
a flood-gate to make it a perfect wet-dock. But
it is to be feared that Europeans will not venture
upon this coast until the inhabitants are become
more civilized.

TRIBES ON THE COAST. 71

“ These people have no fixed situation for their
towns or villages, which are scattered over the face
of the country, and are called kraals by the Dutch;
a kraal for the cattle being an essential part in
every Kafi'er village, as they are their principal
wealth and source of subsistence.

“To all appearance, the tribes which inhabit
these coasts, even from the confines of the Cape
colony, are not the descendants of the aboriginal
inhabitants, but of conquerors from the interior,
who have replaced each other in succession. This
remark is, however, less applicable to the countries
immediately round Delagoa Bay than elsewhere,
although they have undergone great changes of
this description ; but north and south, even as far
Sopala, the greater part of the old tribes have
been entirely out off, and replaced by others.

“At this time the work of depopulation was
carried on with savage rapidity by the mer-
ciless and destructive conquests of a tyrannical
monster named Chaka, whose bloody proceedings
promised soon to leave the whole of the beautiful
country, from the River St. John to Inhamban,
totally desolate.

“ The state of these countries, which have scarcely
had any intercousse with civilized nations, is a
direct proof in refutation of the theories of poets
and philosophers, who represent the ignorance of
the savage as virtuous simplicity—his miserable
poverty as frugality and temperance -~— and his
stupid indolence as a laudable contempt for wealth.
How different are the facts! We ever found un-

72- ENTRANCE TO ENGLISH RIVER.

cultivated man a composition of cunning, treach-
ery, drunkenness, and gluttony.” '

It is now time to return to the Leven, who had
anchored ' in English River, before the Portu-
guese factory, about three miles from Point Reu-
ben, a bluff cape, about two hundred feet high,
forming the northern entrance to the river.
Whilst off the little island of Shefeen, before
coming into the river, the masters of two English
Whalers, the Ratclifi'e and Shakspeare, belonging
to Mr. Wood, of London, came on board, a dis-
tance of about eight miles from their vessels.
Mr. Riddel], master of the former, appeareda very
intelligent and steady seaman, his ship presenting
the rare spectacle for a Whaler, of a sober, steady,
contented crew, kept in good order and discipline,
to which may perhaps be attributed the extraor-
dinary success of his voyage, having been from
England only one year, and his vessel fully laden
with sperm oil.

We entered this river at night, being perhaps
the first time that ever so large a vessel attempted
such an undertaking without any person on board
being acquainted with the navigation. On the
following morning Lieutenant Vidal was sent to
wait upon the Portuguese commandant, to excuse
our not saluting. The remainder of the day was
passed in an interchange of civilities and expla-
nations of the object of our visit.

The Shakspeare and Ratcliffe sailed next day;
the former first exchanging some seamen with us

SENHOR OLIVA. 73

for the remainder of those who had deserted at
Rio Janeiro; the captain having discharged
them in succession as soon as their places could be
supplied.

The Shakspeare had lost her master and one
seaman whilst in the river, by fever, and they
reported the place to be very unhealthy, which at
that time we could not from appearances much
credit; but alas! we were soon to learn the
dreadful truth.

The factory has a small redoubt of about fifty
yards square, with a few honeycombed pieces of
very small ordnance mounted on its mouldering
parapets. Like all the Portuguese establishments
in Africa, the military garrison is charged with the
factory and the collection of the royal customs. It
was composed of a major, commandant, captain,
lieutenant, adjutant, secretary, priest, and surgeon,
with about fifty soldiers, some of whom were Eu-
ropeans, expatriated for murder or other crimes,
all the remainder being negroes.

The late commandant, Senhor Oliva had about
half-a-year before our arrival, been brought to his
post by an English brig called the Sincapore,
which he had chartered—(this vessel will be the
subject of further remark in the course of our
operations); he had, within a few weeks, killed
himself, like a true Roman, by falling on his
sword, finding the golden dreams which he had
cherished before his arrival never likely to be
realized.

His house was very politely given to us for an

744 NATIVE BOATS.

observatory and head-quarters on shore. It was a
good brick hut, with four small rooms on a floor,
some convenient outhouses, and a spacious garden,
of which Mr. Forbes took possession, to leave be-
hind him some excellent fruits. There had for-
merly, it would appear, been much more inter-
course between India and this part of the coast
than at present. The boats at Delagoa Bay and
Fisher’s River are counterparts of the Masoola
boats of Coromandel and Malabar, but on a smaller
scale; they are fiat-bottomed and wall-sided;
their planks being sewed together against a wad-
ding of tow, sufficiently elastic to keep them tole-
rably tight.

This method of tying the planks seems to be
practised in all the boats and vessels which are,
strictly speaking, of native manufacture, on this
coast. But Delagoa Bay and Fisher’s River are
the only points where we saw any of them south
of Zanzibar. English River may be considered
the estuary of three rivers, none of their sources
being more than thirty miles from the entrance;
only one of them having fresh water in the dry
season. During the rains, however, the freshes
are so strong that it is constantly brackish. These
rivers are the Temby on the south-west, the Dun-
das on the west, and the Mattoll on the north-
west.

In the countries inhabited by the Diligo peo-
ple the same language is spoken, from Mapoota
to Inhalnban.

hIapoota, or Oil Country, is to the southward

BOUNDARIES. 75

of the great bay of Delagoa, bounded by a fine
navigable river on its west, which separates it
from Panegola, forming a part of Temby, the
dominion of King Kapell, which extends entirely
to English and Dundas Rivers on the north.

The eastern peninsula of the great bay, and the
island named by the Portuguese St. Mary, are
known by the natives as Inyack,and Little Inyack,
and are now both subject to Mapoota. 0n the
north of English River is the country of Mafoor-
mo, in which is situated the Portuguese factory ;
the tract immediately northward of Mafoomo
is called Mabota, as far as the banks of the
river King George, or Mannees, while on the
west is Mattoll, the southern boundary of which
may be considered the Dundas river.

 

LN'IIIANCF. TO THE KYE RIVER-

76 JEM OF THE WATER.

CHAPTER IV.

Jem of the Water.—Awkward craf't.-—-Personal adornment.—
Factory officers—Intestine war.——Rivers.—Jackot and Fire.
—English River.—~The River Mattoll.—-The River Temby.
——Improvidenee of the natives.——Trafiic with the natives.—
A native village.—Termination of the survey.—A hippopo-
tamus.—Night-scene.—A party of natives.~l)ress of the
chiefl—The Hollontontes.—Nigl1t-preeautions.—Terrific at-
tack—Defeat of the barbarians—lleturn to the boats—Na-
tive warriors.

THE morning of our arri 7a], so soon as the day
made us visible to the natives, they were ob-
served making prepa‘ations on the Mafoomo side
of the water to pay us a Visit. The first who
came was “ Jem of the VVater,” as he called him-
self. This fellow \ 'as in the native costume, which
is literally worse than nothing, consisting only of
a straw tube, about a foot long, with a shred of
blue dungaree hanging from its upper end. He
was ornamented by a necklace of charms, composed
of small shells, eagles’ talons, brass buttons, coloured
beads, medicinal roots, 8:0. not arranged accord-
ing to taste, but to produce the effect which he
could not hope for without their assistance. ‘ He

AWKWARD CRAFT. 77

was a good-looking well-made man, and offered
his services to supply us with water and guard
our casks; an office which he usually performed
for the Whalers when they entered English River.

These people have no canoes in the bay or in
the rivers falling into it, the native boats already
described being the only vessels seen. We were
rather surprised to see them continue the use of
such awkward and unmanageable craft, employed
as they are, not only for continual communication
with strangers, but also for fishing and other do-
mestic purposes, the owners serving every season
in the Whalers, by which they become excellent
boatmen. The cause of this apparently obstinate
retention of ancient habits may, when we come
to give some description of these people, be proved
not to arise from prejudice or ignorance but from
the unhappy state of their government, riveted
on them by the miserable policy of the Portu-
guese pedlars, and his Most Faithful Majesty’s
maquactors at their trading establishments.

The first boat was followed by many others
in the course of the day, bringing to market,
poultry, vegetables, eggs, spears, tusks of the hip—
popotamus, &c.

A much greater variety is observable in the
countenances and features of these people, than is
usually perceived in negro countries, being all jet
black, with thick woolly heads, differing in no-
thing but this well-marked variety of feature from
those of the Coast of Guinea. The men are stout,
handsome, and athletic, and the women well-made,

78 PERSONAL ADORNMENT.

but generally not so well-featured as the men;
still, many might be called pretty.

On all this coast the custom of tattooing, (or,
as practised here, notching,) the face is universal,
each tribe having its distinctive mark. This is
common to all the negro nations in Africa: but
the people of Delagoa Bay and to the southward
have also a peculiar fashion for shaving and dress-
ing their hair. The chiefs of Mapoota and Temby
wear their heads shaved, except a large tuft on
the crown, on which is placed a small pad, or
roller, into which the wool, after being combed
out straight and tight, is tucked with much neat-
ness. The Zoolos, or Vatwas, on the contrary,
shave the crown, and leave a ring of wool round
the head, but similarly dressed by being trussed
over a pad and kept in its place by wooden
skewers. The common people of both sexes, but
particularly the women, shave their wool so as to
leave the shape of a tobacco-pipe, or some other
ludicrous figure, according to their fancy or
taste.

Some of these tribes have a custom of filing
their teeth to points, which is much practised on
many parts of the west coast.

The officers in the Portuguese factory, at this
time, were Captain Jaques Casimir, who had
raised himself from the ranks during the penin-
sular war; his wife was living with him in the
fort. The adjutant also had a wife of Hindoo
extraction, who had formerly been a slave at the
Cape of Good Hope. The adjutant had resided

FACTORY OFFICERS. 79

at this factory about thirty years, ever since
its first formation. After the destruction of Co-
lonel Bolt’s establishment, this man had been
banished, it was reported, for the murder of his
father or brother. The lieutenant was a Canareen
of Goa, named Antonio Teixera, banished thence
for killing a priest, with whose sister he had had
an amour. Besides these, there was a surgeon,
also a Canareen of Hindoo descent, a well be-
haved young man. The wife of Casimir was a
lady whose character was open to scandal, even
on the shores of Africa, and the adjutant was ge-
nerally drunk all day. \Ve found them extreme-
ly kind, and, in many cases, useful, as they sup-
plied us with bullocks, milk, fowls, and vege-
tables, which they bought from the natives for a
mere trifle, and sold to us at a gain of about six
hundred per cent. This traffic being their only
resource, they take great care to prevent any
direct trade between the Whalers and natives.

To the southward of l\Iapoota there exists a
tribe of warlike Kaffers, called Zoolos, but by the
Portuguese Vatwas, being the same as the an-
cient term Batwa, or Butwah : the people of De-
lagoa call them Hollontontes, doubtless a corrup-
tion from Hottentots, as they come from the
south, which is considered their country; this name
they must have become acquainted with when the
Dutch first settled 011 English River, about a hun-
dred and twenty years back. This tribe does not
appear to have long possessed power dangerous to
their neighbours, but some years since subjugated
M apoota, whose king was their tributary.

80 INTESTINE WAR.

In one of the struggles of contending chiefs
for despotism, the present King Chaka expelled
his uncle, Loon Kundava, and upwards of 5000
of his adherents; these, passing through Mapoota,
Temby, and Mattoll, laid the whole country
waste, and even threatened to destroy the Portu-
guese factory; whilst, strange to say, the com-
mandant and soldiers of the said factory actually
carried on traffic with them, through native
traders, for their spoil both of cattle and slaves:
the extraordinary part of this is, that the Portu-
guese claim the whole of this country, and yet
trade with its enemies for the plunder they take
in it. Amongst the articles bartered by these
Zoolos were many of the native implements of
agriculture: and we learnt that they manufac-
tured these and many other articles themselves,
and that the iron implements of husbandry, used
even by the Portuguese, were made by indepen-
dent native tribes.

King Chaka, in pursuit of his rebel subjects,
did not allow them to rest long any where; but
whether the neighbouring countries were entered
by Loon Kundava and the rebels as they fled, or
by Chaka in pursuit of them, the miserable na-
tives were equally sufferers, as they left nothing
but desolation and famine in their rear.

We fitted our boats for exploring the rivers,
which we were informed extended several hun-
dred miles into the interior: and, having prepared
four, the Troughton, George, Hardy, and Hurd,
they were put under the command of Lieutenant

mvnns. 81

Vidal, and provisioned for ten days, at the expi—
ration of which time they were ordered to return,
intending, if any of these rivers were found to
have so long a course as stated, to navigate them in
the Cockburn tender. The report of their great
navigable extent was confirmed both by the Por-
tuguese garrison and the Whalers, some of them
declaring they had ascended thirty miles, and
knew others who had been a hundred, and found
them wide and deep the whole distance.

A black interpreter, who spoke Portuguese, of
which Lieutenant Vidal also had some knowledge,
was hired from the factory, and, supposing the
pretensions of sovereignty set up by the Portu-
guese to be valid, the captain applied to the com-
mandant to give him some people to protect our
boats against any attack from the natives. The
Commandant, however, acquainted us that he had
no authority whatever over them, and that, so far
from giving assistance to us, he was himself in
hourly expectation of an attack from the Vat-
was, when he should hope for our aid. As this ex—
planation settled the affair at once, Captain Owen
never considered it necessary to consult them after-
wards upon any of his movements or operations.

We were not aware that our Kaffers were of
the same people, (although a different tribe,) as
the Hollontontes, and therefore did not send any
of them with our boats, nor indeed had we yet
suflicient confidence in them; two, however,
Jackot and Fire, had by their conduct much
gained upon the estimation of all.

VOL. I. a

82 JACKOT, AND FIRE.

Jackot had been a Chief “ famed for deeds of
arms.” Fire had rendered himself a universal
favourite with the sailors, and took his part in all
their duties and amusements. He afforded much
diversion by his close imitation of their gestures
and manners, as well as by a natural wit and
archness; both men amused us at times by their
war exercises, and showed a thorough contempt
for the Portuguese and all the natives of Delagoa.

Jackot, when one day on shore, persuaded a
native, in the presence of a large party, to try his
assagaye at a small tree, which he did from about
forty yards, and missed ; upon which J ackot took
it up, and going about twenty yards further off,
first poised, and then, giving it a tremulous mo-
tion in his hand, threw the spear with such force
and dexterity that it entered the centre of the
tree so deep as to be with difficulty extracted.
The natives were all astonished, but Jackot
walked ofl‘ without altering a muscle of his fea-
tures, apparently conscious of his superiority over
them.

While our boats were hauled on shore to fit and
equip for the exploration of the rivers, it was ne-
cessary to guard against the thievish propensity
of the natives. We therefore placed sentinels over
them, when not at work ; but having so many men
absent we occasionally employed our Kafl‘ers on
this duty. Fire was so delighted with this mark
of confidence, that he could hardly be persuaded
to be relieved; and he and Jackot actually slept
under the boat, whilst hauled up on the beach, and

ENGLISH RIVER. ' 83

would never quit their post without the interven-
tion of absolute authority. One night a native
approached with caution, no doubt intending to
steal some of the iron or copper which was in
use for her equipment. Fire levelled his musket
and fired just over his head. The report brought
our officers and people to the spot, who saw the
rogue making his escape, when Fire boasted that
he would not kill the fellow, considering him as
too contemptible. This is a purely native trait,
and sufficiently indicates the manly character of
these people.

Our boats quitted the ship on the 3rd, and pro-
ceeded on the service before-mentioned. The
following account of their operations is extracted
from the journals of Messrs. Rozier, nidship—
man, and Forbes, the botanist.

After quitting the Leven on the afternoon of
the 3rd of October, the remainder of the day was
employed in examining English River, as far up
as where those of Temby and Mattoll discharge
themselves into it, about five miles above the fort.
On either side, as they proceeded, they found the
shores rise gradually from an extensive muddy
flat and low land to a high boundary, covered
With large bushes, a,nd in some parts, a full—grown
tree towering above them.

A great variety of birds, feeding on worms and
shell-fish, were seen on the mud-flat, the shore of
which was covered with mangrove trees, even far
below the high-water mark. The water was salt
and discoloured by mud, although its depth was

G2

84 THE RIVER MATTOLL.

sufficient, in most parts, for ships of the largest
size.

In the evening they arrived at Refuge Island,
at the entrance of Dundas River, where they
hauled their boats up and encamped for the night,
taking care to place a watch, consisting of one
third of the party, armed with muskets, pistols,
and cutlasses, a precaution which they never ne-
glected, being an important part of their orders
from Captain Owen.

On the 4th, after an early breakfast, they
quitted the island and commenced an examina-
tion of the river Mattoll. As they proceeded, the
shores began to assume a more pleasing appear-
ance; mangroves were succeeded by forest-trees,
and swamps and stagnant pools by extensive
meadows.

Several of the natives were seen passing in
their boats from one side of the river to the other;
they did not differ from those near the fort in
costume and manners, but were exceedingly sur-
prised at seeing white men. In the afternoon the
boats had ascended as high up the river as they
could, being then about eight miles above its
junction with English River, and the breadth
was diminished from 960 feet, to less than eighty,
and its depth from about sixteen to eight. Their
interpreter Who, from his long residence at De-
lagoa, spoke the language of the natives fluently,
had likewise acquired a tolerably good know-
ledge of the country, which, during the expedi-
tion, rendered, him doubly useful. By his state-

TH E 1: [v ER MATTOLL. 85

ment, the Mattoll has its rise in an extensive
salt-water marsh, at a very short distance above
the spot where the party left off the exploration.
The only growth from industry they observed on
the banks was a few pumpkins, but they were
informed that a short distance in—land there were
extensive plantations of maize.

They returned about five miles before the
evening closed upon them, when they landed and
encamped for the night. On the morning of the
5th they resumed their passage down the river.—
One of the boats was ordered ahead to search for
water; several wells were found on the banks dug
by the natives, but in so filthy a state that their
contents were totally unfit for use: perceiving,
however, a few of the inhabitants at a short dis-
tance, they joined them, and were fortunate
enough to find one who spoke a few words of
English, and styled himself Secretary to King
Mattoll; he had part of a blanket thrown over his
shoulders, and carried a musket. A present to
the whole of a few leaves of tobacco was received
with great thankfulness, and a looking-glass that
was given to the Secretary created much amuse-
ment and astonishment, which was expressed by
all the antics of a monkey making ridiculous
gestures, and a close examination all around.
Gratitude for so acceptable a present led the Se-
cretary to forget his dignified situation, and to
conduct them to a spot a little lower down, where
good water could be procured. His offer was ac-
cepted; they took to their boats, and soon after

86 THE RIVER TEMBY.

landed at the place he had mentioned, where
they obtained a good supply of this article so
much in request, the thermometer being gene-
rally at 82° in the shade.

Several hippopotami were observed in the river,
at one of which the party fired, and had reason
to believe with effect, for the animal plunged as if
in pain, and appeared inclined to attack the boat,
which is a very rare occurrence, as it is natu-
rally of a timid nature. Towards noon they
reached the mouth, and shortly afterwards com-
menced their survey of the Temby.

The entrance to this river is broader and deeper
than that of the Mattoll, and is skirted on both
sides by mangrove trees and putrid swamps, ex-
cepting when a green meadow now and then in-
tervenes, and affords some slight relief to a coun-
try rendered more dreary and disagreeable by a
consideration of its deadly climate.

Parties of natives were seen hovering about in
great confusion, on account of the vicinity of the
Hollontontes, who had lately paid them a preda-
tory visit, by which they were reduced to a state
of great misery.

In the evening the boats were dragged up on
the shore. and the tents pitched upon a grassy
plain for the night. Several of the natives ven-
tured down shortly after, and, from the good treat-
ment they experienced, some of them became ex-
cessively troublesome, and latterly so much so,
that the party was obliged to have recourse to in-
timidation toirestrain their forwardness.

IMPROVIDENCE OF THE NATIVES. 87

On the 6th, after breakfast, the tents were
struck, and they continued their exploration. The
country began to assume a more pleasing aspect;
swamps and mangroves were becoming scarce, and
although the banks still continued low, yet the
land behind,instead of the uniform flatness that
distinguished it before, rose with a gradual ascent,
occasionally studded with clumps of forest-trees.

During the time allowed for dinner on this
day, several of the party landed, and had some
intercourse with the T emby people, from whom
they purchased six fowls for a Lascar knife, which
cost, in London, two-pence. The natives likewise
disposed of their assagayes, taking useless trinkets
in return. It might be supposed that savages in
a state of warfare would sacrifice their love of
finery to their fear of danger, and not, for the sake
of a few trifling baubles, part with the only means
they had of securing even those in their possession.
The boats were made fast to the shore, under
the agreeable shade of the Wide-spreading trees
which lined the banks above; but such was the
intense heat of the weather, that even there the
thermometer stood at 85 degrees.

As the lowering sky portended a storm, the
party commenced pitching their tents much earlier
than usual ; yet they had delayed it too long, for
the rain came on before they were prepared, and
continued very heavy, accompanied with thunder
and lightning, until after dark. Upon the soft
ground where they had placed their tents, they
found impressions of the feet of several animals,

88 TRAFFIC WITH THE NATIVES.

and during the night the grunting of the hippo-
potami around them was incessant.

As they continued their route the next day,
they observed the river sensibly decreasing in
breadth. The banks on each side were frequently
covered with natives, who, although the interpreter
said they belonged to Temby, were supposed to be
of a different tribe to those known before under
that name. One of the boats conveyed a party of
women across the river, who, fearful of the H01-
lontontes, had deserted their huts, and were scat-
tered about in the vicinity of the stream ; but as
their husbands kept at a distance and would not
follow, they were necessitated, though with great
reluctance, to return. In the course of the fore-
noon the party landed for a supply of fresh water,
an article they had generally found some difficulty
in obtaining, when a number of the natives col-
lected on the banks and procured it for them.
These people were the first they had met with
who appeared to have any idea of traffic, having
brought with them several hippopotamus’ teeth,
and one small elephant’s tusk, requiring in ex-
change blue cotton stuffs for covering their heads
and loins. By their information, it appeared that
the river in that part was known among them
by the name of Mahong, from a chief who had
lately died and was succeeded by his son Cham-
borel.

In the afternoon a young hippopotamus was per.-
ceived from one of the boats floundering about
on the broad mud flat that skirted the right shore;

A NATIVE VILLAGE. 89

they pulled for the place, and succeeded in taking
him before he reached the water. In size and
appearance he resembled a large fat hog, with a
young bull’s head; his legs were clumsy, and out.
of all proportion, and his skin hairless but very
tough; he was perfectly harmless, and soon became
docile, acknowledging at times the attention he
received by the performance of sundry awkward
gestures peculiar to himself, and by sucking
whatever he could get into his month.

In the evening the tents were pitched for the
night, the boats being, as the interpreter informed
them, higher up by a day’s journey than he had
ever known the Portuguese to ascend. l\’Ir. Ro-
zier and some more of the officers visited a small
village in the vicinity of the encampment; the
huts resembled those near the fort, but had a con-
struction outside like an oven, neatly made of
clay, and capable of boiling three or four pots at
the same time. Round these the inhabitants were
sitting and preparing their evening repast, con-
sisting principally of vegetables. They appeared
to be a cleanly people, and no doubt were once
acquainted with the English, as they evinced by
their reiterated requests of “ Gi me button.”

As the party continued their course on the fol—
lowing morning, the channel of the river became
gradually more contracted, and about eleven they
arrived at a place where it branched off into two
inconsiderable streams; they proceeded up the
left, or southern, branch, which was about eighty
feet broad, but had not advanced far, when they

90 TERMINATION OF THE SURVEY.

a

were stopped by a barrier of trees, that had
fallen from the lofty banks on either side, and
rendered the farther passage of the boats impossi-
ble. This completed the survey of the River
Temby, or Mahong, of which, although not more
than forty-six miles in extent, including its sinu-
osities, a knowledge is desirable on account of the
facility which it affords for a commercial inter-
course with the inhabitants of the interior.

It is true that only vessels drawing under thir-
teen feet water could navigate it nineteen miles
from the entrance, but boats could perform the
remainder, and, in the proper season, with little
fear of suffering from the effects of the climate.

Treacherous attacks from the natives might be
expected whenever an opportunity offered, but
these might be avoided by keeping to the ves-
sel, excepting when desirous of communication,
which should always be during the day, and
under the protection of the guns. As a memo-
rial of this exploration of the river, the date and
the Leven’s name, in large characters, were deeply
carved on the bark of the largest tree near the
spot.

After Lieutenant Vidal had obtained his ob-
servations at noon, the boats commenced descend-
ing the small arm of the river, for the purpose of
examining that before-mentioned as branching off
to the right or to the northward.

Lieutenant Vidal had just commenced ascend-
ing this stream in his boat, when suddenly a vio-
lent shock was felt from underneath, and in ano—

AN HIPPOPOTAMUS. 91

ther moment a monstrous hippopotamus reared
itself up from the water, and in a most ferocious
and menacing attitude rushed open-mouthed at the
boat, and with one grasp of its tremendous jaws,
seized and tore seven planks from her side; the
creature disappeared for a few seconds and then
rose again, apparently intending to repeat the at-
tack, but was fortunately deterred by the contents
of a musket discharged in its face. The boat ra«
pidly filled, but, as she was not more than an oar’s
length from the shore, they succeeded in reaching
it before she sank. Her keel, in all probability,
touched the back of the animal, which irritating
him, occasioned this furious attack, and had he
got his upperjaw above the gunwale, the whole
broadside must have been torn out. The force of
the shock from beneath, previously to the attack,
was so violent that her stern was almost lifted out
of the water,and Mr. Tambs, the midshipman steer—
ing, was thrown overboard, but fortunately rescued
before the irritated animal could seize him. The
boat was hauled up on a dry spot, and her repairs
immediately commenced. The tents were pitch—
ed, and those of the party that were not employed
as carpenters, amused themselves, the officers in
shooting, and the men in strolling about the de-
serted country round them, being first ordered
not to proceed out of hearing.

Mr. Forbes describes this encampment as possess-
ing peculiar beauties. “ The scene at midnight,” he
says, “ was solemn and almost sublime. The sky
was clear and brilliantly starlight; not a sound was

92 A NIGHT SCENE.

heard but the crackling of our immense fires, the
snorting of the hippopotami, and an occasional
splash, as they rushed in and out of the water
whilst pursuing their rough pastime; the scream-
ing of some birds, (a species of Ibis,) mingled with
the deep-toned cry of ‘ All’s well,’ from the sen-
tinels pacing round the tents, gave birth to feel--
ings it would be difficult to define, for there is
something awful in the stillness of nature that
thrills within us, but cannot speak ; we were but
a few sleeping on a far distant soil, where Euro-
peans had perhaps never been before.”

The next day was employed in completing the
repairs of the damaged boat; the morning was
fine, and as all hopes were given up of being able
to prosecute the survey, Captain Lechmere and
the Botanist took an early breakfast, and walked
into the neighbouring woods, to see What game or
botanical specimens they could procure. On arriv-
ing at the side of a creek they unexpectedly came
upon an hippopotamus of the largest size sleeping
on the mud. As they had only small shot they
could not hope to gain a victory over him, and
therefore hurried back to the encampment from
which they were at but a short distance. A for-
midable phalanx of hunters was immediately
formed, who, with firelocks in hand, proceeded to
the creek, but the animal was gone, and the party
only served to frighten the numerous large ba-
boons that were playing their antics on the tops
of the surrounding trees.

The ,young hippopotamus that was caught

A PARTY OF NATIVES. 93

on the 7th began to decline for want of milk,
or proper nourishment, and was therefore killed
for the larder; his flesh was perfectly white, very
tender, and in flavour resembling veal; the hide
on his back was thick and tough, but much more
delicate under his belly. In the vicinity of the
encampment many agates were picked up, not
veined, but otherwise of a superior quality ; these
were found miXed with ordinary stones on the
banks of the river, as if washed down from the
mountains.

A short time before dinner, a party of the natives
of Temby were observed approaching the tents
with baskets in their hands, containing fowls,
which they had brought to barter for tobacco and
trinkets; their chief was of hIayetta’s family.
While conversing with them, some of the H01-
lontontes appeared at a short distance in their war
costume, armed with shields and spears: at first
they were shy, and kept away from us, until the
Temby people, who appeared to be their allies,
prevailed upon them to approach by assurances
of our friendly disposition.

The following description of their young chief
Chinchingany will suffice, with a few exceptions,
for that of the whole tribe.

Round his head, just above the eyes, was a
band of fur, somewhat resembling in size and
colour a fox’s tail, neatly trimmed and smoothed :
underneath this his black woolly hair was hidden ;
but above it grew to its usual length, until at the
top, where a circular space was shaved in the

94 DRESS or THE CHIEF.

manner of the monks and Zoolos ; round this
circle was a thick ring of twisted hide, fixed in its
position by the curling over of the surrounding
hair, which was altogether sufficiently thick to
resist a considerable blow. On one side of his
head was a single feather of some large bird as an
emblem of his rank, and just above his eye-brows
a string of small white beads, and another across
the nose ; close under his chin he wore a quantity
of long coarse hair, like the venerable beard of a
patriarch hanging down on his breast; his ears had
large slits in their lower lobes, and were made to
fall three or four inches, but without any orna-
ments; these holes in the ears are often used to
carry articles of value. Each arm was encircled by
a quantity of hair like that tied on his chin, the
ends reaching below his elbows. Round his body
were tied two strings, with twisted stripes of hide,
with the hair on them, much resembling mon—
keys’ tails ; the upper row was fastened close under
his arms, and hung down about twelve inches,
the end of each tail being cut with much preci—
sion and regularity; the lower row resembled the
upper, and commenced exactly where the latter
terminated, until they reached the knees. It
bore altogether a great resemblance, to the Scotch
kilt. On his ankles and wrists he had brass
rings or bangles. His shield was of bullock’s hide,
about five feet long and three and-a-half broad;
down the middle was fixed a long stick, tufted
with hair, by means of holes cut for the purpose,

THE HOLLUNTONTES. 95

and projecting above and below beyond the shield
about five inches. To this stick were attached his
assagayes and spears ; the only difference in these
weapons is that the former is narrow in the blade
and small for throwing, the latter broad and long,
with a stronger staff for the thrust.

The chief differed from his people only in the
mock beard and feather which they were not per-
mitted to wear. In concluding the descriptiOn 0f
Chinchingany’s costume, it is necessary to Observe
that this is entirely military, and used only when
upon warlike expeditions; at other times, the
Hollontontes are dressed as the Kafi'ers, with no-
thing but a small leathern or skin purse, not two
inches in length, used as by the Delagoa tribes, or
as their modesty dictates; the appearing without
which, among some of the Kafi‘er tribes, is consi—
dered such an outrage upon decency, that the
person witnessing it is justified in putting the
offender to death. The feeling of shame thus ap-
pears to be increased in proportion as its seat is
limited. These were fine negroes, tall, robust,
and warlike, in their persons, open, frank, and
pleasing in their manners, with a certain appear-
ance of independence in their carriage, infinitely
above the natives with whom the party had hi-
therto communicated.

They appeared to have a better idea of the
value of arms in troubled times than the 'l‘emby
people, for, on being pressed to part with theirs
for trinkets, they pertinently silenced the pro-

96 NIGHT PRECAUTIONS.

poser by requesting the interpreter to ask if
“ when a white man was in an enemy’s country
he ever sold his arms?”

They remained at our tents for some time, and
examined every thing with much curiosity, during
which one of the party, Mr. Hood, commenced
taking a sketch of the chief : before, however,
it was finished, Chinchingany happened to dis-
cover what he was about, and instantly rose with
much indignation in his manner, and without any
notice quickly retired, followed by his people,
some of whom, nevertheless, promised shortly to
return with a bullock for barter.

Wild fowl were very plentiful, and Captain
Lechmere, Who was a keen sportsman, seldom
failed in procuring some for the day’s meal, but
he never succeeded in shooting a buck, although
the country abounded with them. Mr. Rozier
was, however, more fortunate, for, walking out
early in the morning, he suddenly came upon one
fast asleep, and with a blow of his musket killed
it on the spot. Night was closing in, the pro-
mised bullock did not arrive, and, as some natives
were lurking about the tents, they were driven
away, large fires lighted, the arms of the party
examined, and at eight the watch set, consisting
of seven men, commanded by two midshipmem
These took their stations and commenced walk-
ing their rounds, adding fuel at times to the
blazing fires under their charge, while the re—
mainder of the party retired to their tents, and

TERRIFIC ATTACK. 97

were soon lost in sleep. The thick clouds that
overcast the heavens rendered the night dark and
gloomy; all was hushed in the deepest tranquil-
lity, when, a few minutes before midnight, the
attention of one of the sentries, who was placed
in the advance, was attracted by a white object,
that appeared as if rising and slowly moving to-
wards him from the long grass and bushes; he
instantly gave the alarm, and at the same moment
received two assagayes in the thigh, and, as he
retreated, was pierced by another in the back,
which, being barbed, remained in the flesh.

Lieutenant Vidal had been occupied in ob-
serving the stars, and was in the act of replacing
his instruments to return when the sentry’s cry
reached his ears ; he started up, and at the instant
a band of Hollontontes, with their shields and
spears, rushed towards the tents uttering the most
hideous yells. The appalling idea that the people
would be massacred in their sleep flashed across
his mind, and he rushed to the encampment
with his utmost speed, crying loudly, “ To arms !
to arms !”

It was enough; the alarm was reechoed, the
rise instantaneous, and the murdering band were
received at the entrance of the tents with volleys
of balls and bayonet points.

The constant flash and roar of the muskets, with
the horrid yells of the assailants, breaking upon the
still dark gloom, produced a terrific scene; an
occasional groan however, as a ball found its fleshy
bed, and the falling of some, soon intimidated

VOL. I. H

98 DEFEAT or THE BARBARIANS.

the barbarians, and, after a short but desperate
struggle, the cries of war and defiance were changed
into shrieks of terror and dismay, followed by a
precipitous retreat, not, however, forgetting their
wounded, whom they carried off. It would not
have been prudent to pursue them, as their num-
ber was not known, or what succour they had at
hand: but the firing was kept up through the
bushes as long as they could be seen or heard.

Their numbers were apparently between two
and three hundred, headed by Chinchingany,
whose spear and shield, (since presented to Lord
Melville,) were found next morning at a short dis-
tance from the encampment, in the direction they
had retreated. It was supposed that Captain
Lechmere had killed this chief, as he fired his
gun loaded with small shot directly in his face,
which passed through the shield of hide that he
held up as a protection.

So certain, it appears, were these savages of
meeting with no opposition, that but few of their
assagayes were brought into the field, as they
considered their spears sufficient to kill sleeping
men.

The suddenness of this attack, as may be sup-
posed, created some confusion, but did not in any
respect check the courage of the people, or para-
lyze their efforts, which were prompt and de-
cisive.

Mr. Tambs, one of the midshipmen, who had
imprudently undressed to his shirt, upon being
awakened seized his sword, and, impelled by his

RETURN TO THE BOATS. 99

ardour, pursued the savages, naked as he was, with-
out perceiving that he was unsupported, through
which he narrowly escaped being shot by the
party, who mistook him when returning for one
of the enemy with a white shield.

The wounded seaman, galled by the assagaye
that still remained in his back, suffered great
pain, and entreated, after the confusion was a
little over, to have it extracted; from its being
barbed, this was no easy task, and before it
was finally accomplished put him to the most
excruciating agony; but the wounds healed ra-
pidly, and in a short time he was able to do his
duty.

The Portuguese interpreter, during the conflict,
was not visible, and after it was over retreated to
the boats, and could not be prevailed upon to
leave them. The tents and other articles were
immediately removed on board, one half of the
party being appointed to do that duty while the
other kept guard, a precaution by no means unne-
cessary, as the savages were discovered by the
half-suppressed sound of their voices, among the
neighbouring thickets ; they were, however, soon
silenced by the discharge of two rockets, hori-
zontally in the direction, when their fears and
astonishment were expressed by the usual, but
now loudly vociferated exclamation of “ Eigh!
Eigh !” from a multitude, and then all was silent.

In the morning, on examining the ground
about the encampment, some shields, several
spears, and a few assagayes were found, no doubt

H 2

100 NATIVE wmralous.

belonging to the wounded; yet no trace of blood
was discovered, although we heard afterwards,
through the Temby people, that the musketry
did much execution, and that several were killed.

Two parties, well armed, were sent in search
of water, which they ultimately succeeded in
finding. In their way, they passed through
some lands planted with maize, onions, and rice,
and found a human skull, with marks of fire
upon it. This led to the idea that the Hollon-
tontes were cannibals; but, on inquiry, even
their greatest enemies acquitted them of the sus-
picion.

On their way down the river, the morning after
the attack, they saw large bodies of the Hol-
lontontes on the left bank, marching in good mi-
litary order: they had just crossed the river, and
were about penetrating the country on that side
for the purpose of plunder.

Their appearance was warlike, and had a strik-
ing effect as the extensive line moved through
the various windings of the path. The grass
being wet, they were observed taking particular
care to keep their shields above it, as the damp
would render them unserviceable; the spears
attached to them, being thus elevated, were} often
seen glittering in the sun above the brow of the
hill.

Without meeting any farther adventure worthy
of notice, the party returned to their respective
ships on the 12th.

mousn “min-5‘: j “ 530215 5

 

CHAPTER V.

English Bill.-—Native Secretaries—Prince Slangelly.—Slan-
gelly’s family—His riches.~Fondness for smoking.—
VVretched fugitives—A group of hippopotami.~A party of
natives.—Traps For hippopotami.—Mattoll’s people.——Smok-
ing the hubble-bubble.—Inf'atuation.

THE morning after the return of our boats, we
had a visit from a very popular person amongst
us, called English Bill, but known in his own
country, Temby, as Shamaguava; this was an
extraordinar r man for a savage, and stood high in

‘ “502" ‘ ‘ 'ENCLisn BILL.

the confidence of Prince Slangelly, who was the
chief of that part of the kingdom.

English Bill, as he called himself, was very
useful to us on many occasions; he was a thin
slight man, about five feet five inches in height,
and thirty years of age, with a meagre aspect,
a keen, restless, and quick eye, an infinite fund
of cunning and deep finesse, a wonderful talent
for humorous mimicry, and unbounded impu-
dence when necessary _; but so great was his com-
mand over himself that he could be all things
to all men; he was intrusive where he could be
so with impunity, but he knew in an instant
when it was right to be respectful and cautious.

He seldom failed in carrying any point he de_
sired, by uniting to the most artful cunning an un-
paralleled perseverance. \Vith the junior officers,
he was a companion ; with the seamen he affected
the most pompous dignity; while to the captain
he was always extremely humble and sometimes
abject.

Besides his own language, Bill spoke Portuguese
and Hindostany tolerably; English and Dutch
he had a smattering of, and could also speak Hol-
lontonty, or the language of the southern Kaffers.
On our arrival Bill was a man of little import-
ance, and was reported by the Portuguese to have
:aused the death of his brother, Captain Dick,
who was a man of great note and Wealth. But it
must be understood that there existed between
Bill and the Portuguese the most cordial and re-
ciprocal hatred. Bill afterwards became Secretary

NATIVE “ SECRETARIES.” 103

to Slangelly, and from him was derived almost
all the information we obtained respecting the
country and the people whom we had not an op-
portunity of observing personally.

The kingdom of Temby is ruled by an ab-
solute king, and under him twelve chiefs, each
absolute with respect to the people in his district,
but servilely subject to the king. The chiefs
take what they please from their people, but by
usage this is said to be one half of their gain, in
any considerable bargain by purchase or sale. The
king is always surrounded by some of his oldest
chiefs, and no important affairs are undertaken
without their advice. Each chief has his “ Se-
cretary,” who may be said to be his Prime Mi—
nister. How this name has come into use among
these savages cannot be exactly known, or how
far it extends ; but it is common to all the neigh-
bouring tribes. It does not follow that a “ secre-
tary” among these people can either read or write,
for we never met with one native who had the
slightest acquirement in either art.

On our arrival we were told by all the natives
that King Kapell, of Temby, was very sick, other-
wise he would have visited us, which we found
had been always his custom on the arrival of
strange vessels, as he generally got some presents,
and was sure to obtain rum ; but after some time
it appeared that he had been dead for two months;
yet, by an ancient law, not a man in the king-
dom dared to mention it during one year. Upon
this occasion, however, the ancient custom was

104 PRINCE SLANGELLY.

departed from, and within two months after the
death of old King Kapell, his grandson and suc-
cessor, Mayetta, was proclaimed. This infringe-
ment of the laws was in a great measure at-
tributable to his desire of profiting by our unex-
pected arrival.

We had, however, been fourteen days Without
any direct communication from any of the chiefs
of Temby, when English Bill presented himself as
the bearer of five fowls and four cabbages as a
present of welcome from Prince Slangelly, which
Captain Owen accepted with pleasure, as it show-
ed a friendly disposition on the part of the na-
tives. After English Bill had remained some
time on board, Lieutenant Boteler was ordered to
return with him to Slangelly, and try to prevail
on that Prince to visit us, and receive a present
in return for that which he had sent.

The following account of Lieutenant Boteler’s
visit to Prince Slangelly, together with his ex-
pedition to explore the Dundas River, is here
given as extracted from his own journal.

“ As we landed, curiosity drew a number of the
natives around, and by the time we reached our
journey’s end we were joined by upwards of fifty.
The distance to Slangelly’s Village was about a
mile; when just in sight of his hut we perceived
the Prince leaving it, accompanied by about a
dozen men, armed with spears. He turned back
when he heard the shouting of English Bill, and
received me at the door of the hut with a hearty
shake of the hand, but would on no account permit

PRINCE SLANGELLY. 105

me to enter until he had spread his mats on the
floor to sit on. This being arranged, he led the
way, and we followed, accompanied by as many of
his people as the hut could conveniently hold. Af-
ter the message was delivered, and proper thanks
returned, Slangelly and his party gave their whole
attention to English Bill’s account of his visit to
“ biggy King George’s ship,” during which it was
laughable to hear the many ‘ Eigh! Eighs !’ and
the various other signs of admiration and asto-
nishment expressed by his hearers.

“ Bill’s story being finished, they turned to us,
and many and curious were the questions they
asked: one was whether the Leven was not “ the
biggest ship in the world ?” On being told that
so far from it, there were some even four times
as large, they expressed the utmost astonishment,
and observed, “ Suppose she catch um for Cappen
Biggy King’s son.” A silver hunting-watch was
shown, at Bill’s request, to Slangelly; he lis-
tened attentively to the ticking, cried, ‘ Eigh !
Eigh !” and grinned his approbation. The spring
was touched and the cover flew up against his
ear, occasioning him to start back with great asto-
nishment, mixed with a slight appearance of fear,
while the company sagaciously observed, ‘ Him,’
(the watch), ‘ all de same as leivre,’ (alive).

“The cover at the back was then shown, the
glass opened, and the works of the inside arrested,
and vice versa, by the stop from without, and, as
a close to the exhibition, the machinery in full ac-
tion was displayed. The yell of admiration that

106 SLANGELLY’S FAMILY.

this called forth was reechoed from the crowd as-
sembled outside, who, standing no longer on cere-
mony, rushed in to obtain their share of the
sight.

“ With them entered Slangelly’s mother, his fa-
vourite wife, (for he had ten,) and a young boy, his
son, who had a pleasing and intelligent counte-
nance. To the latter I presented a string of beads,
which, when hung round his neck, appeared to
yield almost as much pleasure to the parents as to
the child. Small presents of tobacco, buttons, &c.
were likewise distributed amongst the rest of the
party, and to Slangelly, as an earnest of what he
might expect if he ventured on board, two bottles
of rum were given : one of these he immediately
opened, and taking about a third of it off at a
draught, passed it round to his neighbours, who
quickly drank the remainder, smacking their lips,
and pronouncing with emphasis, ‘ ()hehomby
sopy !” meaning very good rum. The other bottle
was placed in a bag, carefully tied up, and then
given in charge to a man armed with a shield
and spear, to convey to Slangelly’s cousin, the
young Mayetta, who, by the early death 'of his
father, the eldest son of old King Kapell, had be-
come possessed of his title and territory.

“ English Bill informed us that Slangelly could
not venture on board the Leven without Ma-
yetta’s permission, but there was reason to believe
his hesitation proceeded from a fear of the Portu-
guese, one of whom had been assassinated some
time before by the natives, on the Kapell side;

HIS RICHES. 107

but judging from the usual behaviour of these
people, there is little doubt that they had sufficient
provocation for committing an act so much at
variance with their general character. Slangelly
had ordered four fowls to be killed and cooked for
our dinner, but, as we could not wait for them,
he earnestly requested our acceptance of a fine
pig; this I refused, yet in as courteous a manner
as possible, to prevent giving umbrage, by telling
him our visit was not to obtain presents, but to
prevail upon him to come on board and receive
some from us, in testimony of our friendly dispo-
sition towards him and his people. Slangelly
expressed his regret that he could not return with
us to the Leven, but hoped that he should be
able to pay us a visit after he had seen Mayetta.
Previously to. our leaving his but he showed us
those of his wives; they were small and ten in
number, each wife, according to the fashion of the
country, having her separate residence. “ Poly-
gamy is allowed to all, and the number of wives
that each man has is in proportion to his means.
This Prince, or as English Bill called him, King,
was a young man of short stature, with an intelli-
gent good-humoured countenance. The only
articles of clothing he wore were a neat blue
jacket, and a red night—cap, decorated with a
great profusion of beads and trinkets. “ From
the extent of his domain, and the grain in his
fields, he was accounted rich, of which Bill, by
the way, took care to inform me, by saying, in
his broken English, ‘King Slangclly richy, very

108 FONDNESS FOR SMOKING.

richy man, too much richy, he hab plainty Ollll-
yong’ (onions).

“ This strange criterion of a man’s riches amused
us exceedingly, and for a long time it became a
by-word with us, when the property of any one
was the subject of conversation to say, ‘ he had
plenty onyons.’ * .

“ Returning to the boat, I witnessed an instance
of the great partiality which these people, in com-
mon with all African savages, have for smoking.

“ A man, with a spear stuck in the ground by
his side, crouching over a small fire, was smoking
apparently with almost painful exertion : upon
introducing myself, and examining the contents
of his pipe, I found, much to my surprise, that it
consisted of nothing more than green leaves and
twigs pulled from the bushes around him. Ima-
gination must have had much to do in extracting
pleasure from such a substitute. Before leaving the
spot we presented him with a small quantity of to-
bacco, which drew forth the strongest expressions
of gratitude.

“ Having concluded my mission to Prince
Slangelly, I returned on board, and on the
14th had orders from Captain Owen to explore
the branch of the river called by us Dundas
River, after the late Lord Melville, which was left
, unexamined by Lieutenant Vidal. For this pur-

9“ The reason why onions were considered as the sign of
wealth was, that it was the vegetable most carefully cultivated,
and was always sure of a ready and good market with the
Whalers and other ships visiting the bay.

WRETCHED FUGITIVES. 109

pose I had two boats, with three midshipmen,
twelve seamen, and a native interpreter.

“ On approaching Refuge Island We discovered
several boats moored off a small sandy bank, and
on shore at least two hundred natives, men, wo-
men, and children, who had fled from the Temby
side, there to await the Hollontontes. A more
perfect picture of misery can hardly be imagin-
ed than these people exhibited. Yet the pity
that we should otherwise have felt for them was
lessened by the contempt we entertained for their
cowardice in thus yielding up their country with-
out a struggle. A native, whose hollow eye and
meagre aspect sufficiently announced that he
was in a starving state, brought us some hot
embers to kindle our fire, and his request in re-
turn W'as a little water.

“ After dinner we entered the river, the shores
appeared low, and mostly covered with mangroves
and bushes, often inundated at high-water. We
observed several small nests, resembling purses,
suspended from the boughs of the most lofty trees,
with an entrance at the side through a little round
aperture: they were constructed, with great in—
genuity, of grass and feathers, and belong to a
species of the loxia, a bird common to most parts
of Africa. Besides these we observed many other
varieties, consisting of the pelican, white crane,
adjutant, kingfisher, toucan, spoonbill, flamingo,
curlews of different sizes, turkey-buzzard, hawk,
duck, goose, guinea-fowl, pigeon, dove, and many
small birds of beautiful plumage. The only qua-

110 A GROUP or IIIPPOPOTAMI.

drupeds were the hippopotami, who, when we
anchored at night, kept up a constant noise until
morning, their cry resembling the grunting of a
hog, joined to the loud hollow bellowing of an ex
and the neigh of a horse.

“Our boats were furnished with tilts, which,
with the sails doubled over all, prevented us from
experiencing any ill effects from the marshy
exhalations that arose around us, and exhibited
above the surface of the ground a dense and
noxious vapour. Next morning we continued
our course up the river, and, in passing a low
sandy point, found ourselves surrounded by a
group of hippopotami, so close together, that had
they not sunk, as we approached, we could not,
from the narrowness of the passage, have passed
Without striking them. Three were standing on
the bank, and, as we drew near, one of them
opened his huge red month about three feet and
a half, and exhibited a more formidable and
savage appearance than I have ever witnessed in
the fiercest of the brute creation; two, 011 our first
appearance, retreated to the water, but the third
remained sufficiently long to receive on his back a
volley of balls, only one of which seemed to take
effect, the rest glancing of perfectly harmless.
The animal, feeling himself wounded, uttered a
loud and menacing cry, and then rushed furiously,
and apparently in pain, to the water; frequently,
at the moment we fired, one only would be vi-
sible, but immediately on the report numbers
would show themselves, some perhaps only for a

HIPPOPOTAMI. 1 11

second, whilst others, lying in shoal water, would
instantly startrup and attempt to get into the
deeps, trotting through the mud at a quicker rate
than the boats could pull, and looking back upon
us every now and then with the greatest terror
and anxiety. One that was penned up between
the two boats appeared stupified by fear, and,
without making an effort to escape, stood for up-
wards of five minutes, regarding first one boat,
and then the other, which, from their relative si-
tuation, could not fire at him. While running
through the water they dip their heads conti-
nually beneath, and with their broad noses throw it
up in a shower on their backs. The quickness of
these animals is extraordinary, for frequently after
the flash they were down before the ball could
reach them.

“ The breadth of the river was reduced to two
hundred and forty feet, and the depth to ten,
the water being perfectly fresh, a circumstance
little expected from the distressed state to which
the natives on Refuge Island were reduced for
want of it, and knowing it to be salt in both the
Mattoll and Temby,‘ the latter of which penetrates
thirty-nine miles further into the interior than
we had ascended this.

“ At the time Dundas River was explored, I was
not aware that l‘Ir. Huddart, in his East India Di-
rectory, had mentioned that its waters were fresh.

“ Some natives came out of the wood on the
right, but, as they advanced, turned off as if to
avoid us, upon which I followed them, first lay-

112 A PARTY or NATIVES.

ing down my rifle, but with my pistols uncon-
cealed. I held out tobacco and trinkets, and en-
deavoured to convince them that they had no-
thing to fear; yet all in vain, until the inter-
preter, by repeated assurances, persuaded them
that our object was only to gain from them some
knowledge of the country. They belonged to
King Machakany, of Mattoll, and were on their
road to join him against the Hollontontes, a de-
serter from whom accompanied them, having with
his armor patriw banished the costume of his
tribe, and adopted in its room that of the Mattoll
and Temby people, who, notwithstanding dif-
ferent names and government, are in their habits,
character, and costume, (if such they may be said
to possess,) the same.

“These men informed us that the river, at a
short distance above, was fordable at low water,
which, on my arrival I found to be correct,
and as, at that time, there was scarcely sufficient
depth for the smallest canoe, I was obliged to
give up the survey. It was afterwards ascer-
tained, that, had it been high-water at the time, I
might have passed the bar and proceeded a few
miles higher through a deeper channel and greater
expanse of water.

“ Our distance from the mouth of the river was
nine miles, when we gave up the survey. In
going down the opposite side to that on which
we communicated with ‘the natives, we observed
that where the hippopotami, in their passage to
and from the river, had broken down the bank,

TRAPS FOR IIIPPOPOTAMI. 113

sharp-pointed poles, hardened by fire, were placed
by the natives; these were for the purpose of
staking them on their descent, and the inter-
preter informed us that many were caught in this
way : they die from the wound shortly after they
reach the water, and their huge carcases, when in-
flated, float down the river, and are picked up by
the natives, who, at this time of famine, sought
them with the greatest avidity. Sometimes, when
the demand for hippopotamus flesh is great, on
account of the scarcity of other articles of food,
the natives assemble in the woods, and when the
animals come on the plains to graze, run out
upon them with loud cries, upon which they rush
with headlong force upon these stakes, when the
skin, hard and tough as it is, cannot resist the vio-
lence of the contact, the wood splinters in the
desperate wound, and life soon becomes extinct.

“ The natives do not confine themselves merely
to entrapping the hippopotami, but will some-
times venture in a body to attack them with
their spears. They waylay the huge animal, and,
watching the time as he pushes by the thick
bushes in which they lie concealed, by a dex~
trous thrust of their sharp spears, hamstring him,
when he falls roaring with anguish and impotent
rage to the ground, where, under a repetition of
wounds, he soon finishes his career. This me-
thod of attack, so replete with danger, is adopted
only when there is the greatest demand for hip-
popotamus flesh, and, as latterly, for their teeth;
for, until we set the example, the Portuguese

VOL. 1. I

114 MATTOLL’S PEOPLE.

seldom purchased any other ivory than that of the
elephant.

“ I winged a beautiful white aigrette crane, that
was passing overhead, and brought it to the
ground; as I was in the act of picking it up,
desperate with agony from the wound, it struck
at my eye with its beak, and had it not been for
my glasses, must inevitably have reduced it to
perpetual darkness. I have since heard of a gen-
tleman who, under similar circumstances, was not
so fortunate; he still lives, and I shall feel plea—
sure if, by stating this incident, it should be the
means of saving others from so distressing a catas-
trophe.

“ After leaving the Dundas we examined a
small river, branching off from the M attoll, on the
banks of which, in a marshy ground, we disco-
vered some of Mattoll’s people, who had retreated
there to await the Hollontontes. Of the boughs
of trees they had formed temporary huts, resem—
bling the nests of birds reversed; on these were
spread their mats, while their arms, being sus-
pended around, gave them a most picturesque ap-
pearance. The women, in whose looks melan-
choly and misery were depicted, stood grouped
together in mournful silence over the declining
fires, at which they had just been cooking their
frugal fare, consisting of a species of small shell—
fish, that abound on the banks of these rivers,
a little millet, and a fruit resembling calebash,
which they term maccaca. They pound the
millet in a deep wooden mortar. and with the

SMOKING THE HUBBLE-BUBBLE. 115

inside of the tasteless maccaca, make it into
small cakes, which they put on sticks and roast
before the fire. This fruit, when eaten in its
natural state, occasions a Violent dysentery, and
on that account was not permitted to be brought
on board. I never learnt whether it had the
same effect on the natives, but should imagine
not, as I have often observed them eating it un-
cooked with apparent relish.

“One of the greatest luxuries of life, in the
opinion of the Delagoans, is smoking the “ hub-
ble-bubble.” A long hollow reed, or cane, with
the lower end immersed in a horn of water, and
the upper capped by a piece of earthenware,
shaped like a thimble, is held in the hand; they
cover its top with the exception of a small aper—
ture, through which, by a peculiar action of the
mouth, they draw the smoke from the pipe above
through the water below; they fill the mouth,
and after having kept it some time there, eject
it with violence from the ears and nostrils. I
have often known them giddy, and apparently
half stifled from indulging in this to them fasci—
nating luxury: it produces a violent coughing
and whooping, accompanied by a profuse perspira—
tion, and great temporary debility ; yet it is con-
sidered by the natives highly strengthening, and
is always resorted to by them previously to under-
taking a long journey, or commencing work in the
fields. To the hut of an old man, who was thus
indulging himself, I was attracted by the loudness
of the cough it had occasioned, and, as I entered,

I 2

116 INFATUATION.

I observed that his feeble frame had almost fallen
a victim to the violent effects of the bang or to-
bacco he was smoking; he had thrown himself
back on some faggots, and it was not until I had
been some time there that he appeared at all con-
scious of my presence: yet, as soon as the half-
inebriated wretch had obtained suflicient strength,
be commenced his devotions to the pipe again,
and, by the time I quitted the hut, was reduced
to the same state as that in which I had found
him.

“On our way back to the Leven, after the
survey of the river was completed, we passed
a creek, near which was assembled a group of
women and children; curiosity led me to look at
them through a glass, which they, mistaking for a
musket, shrieked, and precipitately fled with their
children to the woods. It is singular to behold
the dexterity with which a Delagoa woman, if
alarmed, disposes of her child: with her right
hand she takes hold of its left shoulder, and
throws it over her back, when the infant imme-
diately clings, and would hold on for some time,
even if the mother were not to assist it, by cross-
ing. her arms before her as a rest for its legs.”

QUARTER-DECK MARK ET. 1 1 7

CHAPTER VI.

Quarter-deck Market.——Native Liquors—Death and burial of
Mr. Tambs.—Hostilities.—A Deserter.—Death of a Seaman.
a—Portuguese atrocity—Native feud—Captain Lechmere’s
illness and death—His Servant's illness—A Man lost.—
Dangerous situation.—Fresh VVater.-—-Trap for Hippopotami.

A FRIENDLY understanding having been per-
fectly established with the natives, one side of our
quarter-deck every morning exhibited the appear-
ance of a market in miniature. The natives
brought elephants’ tusks, teeth of the hippopota-
' mus, rhinoceros’ horns, tiger skins, ambergris,
spears, assagayes, mats, shields, agricultural and
culinary utensils of their own manufacture, goats,
fowls, onions, yams, maize, millet, cabbages, mac-
cacas, (afterwards prohibited,) pine-apples, toma-
tas, and a variety of other things.

Captain Owen would not allow private traffic
to be carried on before the wants of the commu-
nity in general were supplied, by which judicious
arrangement a proportion of vegetables and fruit
was every morning obtained by the purser for

118 NATIVE LIQUURS.

the ship’s company. Blue dungaree, or, as it is
termed by the natives, lap, (corruption of cloth,)
was the article in greatest request, and next to
that, axes, knives, tobacco, and small black or white
paste beads, which constitute the currency of the
country. Rum, although much coveted, was not
considered by the natives as an article of trade,
but was accepted with avidity and thanks; they
make two different kinds of liquor, one called
Epéahla, and the other Wocahnyéyé. The former
is prepared in the following manner; a large
quantity of maize, with a proportion of water, is
put into a woOden mortar, and there pounded for
half an hour, and afterwards placed in the shade
to ferment; at the end of two days it is boiled,
and when cold a small addition of a grain called
Andnealo, (a sort of millet,) well pounded is
added, and the whole, after standing a few hours,
strained through a mat bag, from which the
Epeahla oozes perfectly pure and of a milk white
colour. In one day it is drinkable, the next sour,
and less than two bottles will occasion inebriation.

The Wocahnyéy‘Ié is obtained from the Maca-
nyéy'ré, a fruit resembling the guava, and which
grows on a lofty white—looking tree termed the
Kahnyéyé; a small hole is cut in the fruit, through
which the juice is squeezed into a large boiler,
where, after having stood some time over the fire,
it remains to ferment until the next day; more
juice is then added, and the same operation re—
peated with the whole; it then becomes drink~

DEATH or MR. TAMBS. 119

able, and will continue so for three days. It has
scarcely any colour, but a sweet and pleasant taste;
yet it is not of so intoxicating a nature as the
Epéahla.

Mr. Boteler’s report of Dundas River was so
favourable, that Captain Owen thought the rea-
diest way of completing the Barracouta’s wood
and water would be to send her into it.

Accordingly, on the 20th, a party under Cap-
tain Cutfield went to observe its practicability,
and, on the 22nd, the attempt was made; but, al-
though there was sufficient water over the bar,
yet the channel was too narrow, and in getting
under way to return, the vessel grounded on a
small bank in the middle of the river, where she
lay a whole tide, during one of the most terrific
nights ever experienced.

On the evening of the 24th fell the first victim
to that dreadful complaint, which afterwards
made such ravages amongst us ; this was Mr. Wil-
liam Boys Tambs, an Admiralty midshipman on
board the Leven, who died about nine in the
evening. He had been ill but three days, and
the disease was of so mild a character that, until a
few minutes before his dissolution, not the slight-
est idea was entertained of his being in danger;
on the contrary, he appeared as if rapidly reco-
vering, and even thought so himself. Only one'
hour and a half before his death he was sitting at
table with his companions, joking and conversing
in his usual spirits. As the evening advanced he

120 BURIAL or MR. TAMBS.

retired to bed, felt himself very unwell, sent for
the surgeon, and, unconscious of his approaching
end, sank to sleep. He woke no more—but
slumbered gently into eternity, without a sigh
or groan to tell us he was gone. His body was
placed on deck and covered with a Union J ack,*
an emblem of honour and courage that threw a
lustre over the cold remains. His knell was rung
in awful and terrific peals of thunder, while the
lightning, vivid and bright, threw its wild light
on the martial pall, showing with every flash the
red cross, not as usual floating to the breeze, but
still and motionless over the bier of early merit.
It was a saddening spectacle, calculated to pro-
duce feelings of religious awe and melancholy.

A grave was dug early in the morning on the
summit of a low sandy hillock, near the fort,
where his body was interred with military honours.
Captain Owen and every officer not on duty
attended to pay the last sad rites to their de—
parted friend and companion. A head—stone was
raised by a relation, and the epitaph on it paid
not so ill a compliment to the memory of the
deceased as to bestow posthumous praise through
a channel so- often abused.

The Cockburn left the river on the 25th to
survey the bay, and Mr. Wood, with a tent and
two marines, was placed on the top of Mahong
Point, to co-operate with her. Independently of
Mr. Gibbons—who, as before stated, had charge

‘* A form always observed upon such occasions.

uosriLlTlEs. 121

of the observatory, Captain Lechmere, Mr. Forbes,
and others, at times made it also their abode.
This whole party were there one morning, when
the Portuguese informed them that the Hollon—
tontes were committing most dreadful ravages
upon the inoffensive people between the fort and
lake ; our party, upon this information, immediate-
ly armed, and, followed by many Portuguese, and
nearly all the blacks, proceeded into the country
to rid the vicinity of their abode from such dan-
gerous neighbours.

They shortly came upon them, and, after one
discharge, drove the savages in the utmost con-
sternation back upon their main body, which was
at some distance from this band of marauders;
for which retreat we afterwards learnt they were
severely reprimanded and branded as cowards by
their chief Loonkundava.

In consequence of this hostile appearance, an
extra guard of marines was placed at the obser—
vatory. In the afternoon a poor old black was
brought on board severely wounded; he was
in charge of some cattle, which, as the Hollon-
tontes approached, he drove towards the fort for
protection ; returning to his hut, he was shortly
afterwards seized by the invading tribe, who, in
revenge for his caution, speared him in the most
cruel manner. It appeared that they had held
him down and worked the weapon forcibly to
and fro, until it had passed through his thigh, as
the wound was upwards of seven inches in length,
and the largest spear is not more than half that in

122 A DES ERTER.

breadth. The sufferer nobly bore the pain, and
appeared much less affected at his situation than
those who stood by and pitied him. A native,
who accompanied him, and spoke a little English,
thus described the horror he felt at such a fate as
his comrade had experienced. “ Delagoa man no
care, suppose um sick and go dead, no like big
rogue Hollontonte, no peak nothing, but tuf'
(thieve) um life.”

The wounded man’s leg was dressed, and he
went on shore highly grateful, but we never
heard whether he recovered.

One of the petty officers belonging to the Le-
ven, a blustering and discontented character, was
placed in his turn sentry over the water-casks on
shore, when he fell asleep, and his bayonet was
stolen; upon waking, fearful of punishment, he
deserted, but at the end of six days returned in a
half-starved and sickly state. As he had suffered
so much already, his offence was forgiven ; a leni—
ency it might have been supposed that he would
have tried to repay by diligence and good conduct.
Yet, no sooner had he recovered his health, than
taking advantage of the opportunity afforded by
being in one of the boats that landed Captain
Cutfield and some others, he repeated his former
offence, taking with him his musket, ammuni-
tion, and a variety of other articles belonging to
the officers and boat’s crew. Many instances of .
this kind make the heart sick at man’s ingrati-
tude, and mercy and forgiveness leave for ever
the breast where they once reigned. The kindly

DEATH or A SEAMAN. 123

feelings are thrown back, and in their stead is
brought forth stern justice, which, by the unthink-
ing or inexperienced portion of the world, is called
severity.

This man richly deserved punishment, he was
forgiven, and, in return for this consideration, he
again repeated the offence, with the addition of
robbery. “ Would the expected and deserved pu~
nishment have prevented this?” is the natural in-
quiry. With sorrow, we should suppose it might,
but then two of the finest feelings of our nature
would be neutralized, Viz. the power and pleasure
of forgiveness, followed by the delightful senti-
ment of gratitude.

On the 30th, a seaman of the Leven died of
fever, he was ill only a few days, and apparently
suffered little. These two deaths, and the daily
increase of sick, produced in the minds of many a
presentiment of the desolation that was about to
ensue: this was exemplified by a kind of ima-
ginary terror or apprehension; and a constant
something weighing on the mind, caused a lan-
guor and apathy to passing events, and a depres-
sion of spirits in itself almost enough to produce
that which was so much dreaded.

About this time, the Portuguese commandant
perpetrated an act of atrocity of the most appall-
ing nature. The ravages of the Hollontontes had
reduced the inhabitants of the Mattoll country to
such a state of desolation and distress, that the
king’s brother and sixteen of the natives pro-
ceeded to the fort, to request that assistance and

124 PORTUGUESE ATROCITY.

support which they had a right to expect from
their friendly relation with the garrison.

Previously to demanding an interview with the
commandant, they visited the Portuguese bazaar,
that was always kept open near the fort, and
there commenced bartering some few articles
they had brought for provisions. They had not
long been thus occupied, when a soldier express-
ing to the commandant a suspicion that these
were a party who had robbed his garden, which
he could not have substantiated, for the ground
in question had been overrun by the Hollon-
tontes, the unsuspecting blacks were surrounded
by a guard of soldiers, with fixed bayonets, and
conveyed into the fort, where, merely as a part of
their punishment, they received a flogging, in
point of severity far worse than death. Some idea
may be formed of its horrors from the fatal result,
and the description of the instruments with which
it was inflicted.

The knout was formed of several thongs of
hard dried bull’s hide, covered with knots, and
attached to a stick about three feet long, as a
handle; from this punishment the sufferer either
fainted immediately, or, from the agony he en-
dured, was reduced to a lethargic state; if the
latter, he was aroused by a violent blow from a
stake, or heavy bar, that he might be more sus-
ceptible of pain, or evince it by his cries. The
branch of a thorny bush was the last instrument
of torture, Which was applied with great force to
the lacerated back of the half-expiring negro. i

PORTUGUESE ATROCITY. 125

The commandant stood by the whole time, en-
couraging his soldiers not to relax their exertions
in the application of the torture, and regulating
the periods for using the stake; he was alike in-
exorable to the cries of the sufferers and to the
tears and entreaties of his own Wife, who on her
knees interceded for them. After their punish—
ment was over, the sufferers were cast into a small
and loathsome cell, there to remain until their
backs were sufficiently healed to endure the re-
mainder of their sentence.

Owing to the impure air, the closeness and filth
of their dungeon, together with their wounds and
mental desPondency, the greater number of the
unhappy sufferers were soon relieved by the more
lenient hand of death. It might be supposed that
this would have been sufficient to produce a little
mercy and commiseration from their hard-hearted
persecutor: but no, they were dragged out either
dead, or in a dying state, to the bushes in the
vicinity of the fort, and there, in spite of their
groans, unfeelingly left in lingering misery be—
neath a burning sun. If any survived these varied
cruelties, they were few, as the greatest pro-
portion died in prison; one, however, was seen
shortly after death had closed his sufferings, with
his back dreadfully lacerated and in a state of
mortification, while worms and flies were carous-
ing upon the mangled flesh.

At this period there existed a political commo-
tion amongst the natives of the T emby side, in
consequence of an attempt at usurpation, and we

126 NATIVE FEUI).

learnt that it was principally upon this account
that Mayetta had broken through the ancient
custom before mentioned of concealing the death
of the late king for twelve months. This pre-
tender was one of his chiefs, named Mambelta,
famed for getting drunk and for many other vices.
This chief had appropriated to his own use a
moiety of the presents received from Captain
Owen, an act implying the assumption of sove-
reignty; accordingly Mayetta was at once pro-
claimed, and, as upon the accession of a new so-
vereign, it was the custom to establish the prero-
gative of royalty by condemning some great per—
son to die, 'he very politically commenced his
reign by passing sentence of death upon his rival.
Mambelta was accordingly speared upon the most
improved principles, and buried with all the
honours due to his rank and pretensions.

There was now on every face in Temby the
most lively satisfaction at our demonstrations of
friendship, which they had before some reason to
doubt, as one of their princes was with Chin-
chingany and his Zoolos when they attacked Mr.
Vidal and his party, and as the place was in the
territories of Temby, they naturally expected to
be treated as enemies; these fears once removed
they were always ready to take advantage of our
friendship, and never was there a more hardy or
resolute beggar than “ English Bill,” who was
generally employed by Mayetta and Slangelly
for this purpose.

It was also evident that a decided prejudice

CAPTAIN LECHMERE’S ILLNESS. 127

existed in favour of the English, and a desire that
they would form an establishment in Temby; the
natives combining with this idea the certain con-
sequence of their own security and wealth. This
feeling for a British establishment was constantly
urged by English Bill on behalf of his principals,
and by all who could communicate with us, in such
terms as the following, “ “That for English man
no come lib here, plenty land, plenty country?
suppose him come, black man get plenty clothes."

Of the Portuguese they were much afraid, and
with reason, for they were by no means ceremo-
nious with the poor negroes, but appeared to con-
sider it justifiable to squeeze all they could out
of them. They, however, confessed that, in con-
sequence, they dared not trust themselves amongst
the natives, who had recently murdered a Senhor
Gomez, who had attempted to settle in Temby
and form a whale-fishing establishment.

We found a strong predilection for fair com-
merce amongst them, and men never behaved
better than they always did at their markets or
on board our ships.

On the third of November, Captain Lechmere
came off from the observatory in a low fever, and
during the night was so ill that he was hardly
expected to survive until morning; but, as day-
light approached, the dangerous symptoms abated,
and he felt better. Yet the flattering change,
however it relieved his bodily sufferings, did not
deceive his mind with false hopes; he was per-
fectly aware of the inveteracy of the disease under

128 CAPTAIN LECIIM Earls ILLNESS.

which he laboured; and, from the moment of his
attack, fully anticipated the fatal result to which
it might lead.

Captain Lechmere had excited so general a
feeling of respect and esteem amongst all on
board, that the details of his illness will be readily
pardoned. This interest in his fate was strongly
exemplified in the attachment of his attendant,
VVilliam Newman, a marine, who was as much
concerned as if he had been his nearest relative;
he carried him from place to place like a child, as
poor Lechmere’s fevered fancy dictated; sang to
him, fanned him, moistened his lips, and Was si-
lent or still as his patient directed, and at last
brought him by his special desire into the cap-
tain’s cabin, where there was already a young
midshipman in almost the same hopeless state.
As the bell was striking the midnight hour, he
sank into the dreamless sleep of death. His
last moments were attended with a romantic in-
terest. The fever being very high a short time
before his decease, every means were tried to calm
him, but in vain; the same impatient, painful,
restlessness still prevailed.

At length Captain Owen, who knew from ex-
perience that singing had a powerful effect in
soothing extreme pain by diverting the mind
from its sufferings, and fearful that the heart—
rending expressions and cries uttered by Captain
Lechmere might produce an injurious effect upon
the other object of his solicitude, commenced that
pathetic ballad, “Here a sheer hulk lies poor

CAPTAIN LECHMERE’S DEATH. 129

Tom Bowline.” The first note produced a ces-
sation of his frenzy: from raving madness he
sank into almost total insensibility, which con-
tinued until Captain Owen came to the words
“ His soul is gone aloft!” when a long guttural
sound announced that leis spirit was fled, which
was instantly confirmed by his attendant saying
in a melancholy tone, “ He’s gone, Sir!”—
“ And aloft, I hope!” replied the Captain, as he
concluded his song.

He was a son of the late Admiral Lechmere,
and had applied for the command of the Barra-
couta, which Captain Owen objected to, on ac-
count of his inexperience in the service upon
which we were to be engaged, but offered to re-
ceive him as his companion, in order that he might
obtain information.

He was a man of the most enterprising spirit.
of a frank and generous disposition, and of kind
and gentlemanly manners, which made him uni—
versally beloved and regretted.

His body was opened at six in the morning
and at ten he was buried on the highest sand-
hill, abreast of the ship, by the side of two young
midshipmen who had fallen early victims to the
same cruel complaint.

The Captain, all the officers, marines, and many
of the seamen joined the funeral procession.
Captain Owen read the service, and, before the
grave closed for ever upon the body, three
volleys of musketry pealed in sad intervals over
it, as the last mark of respect it was in our

VOL. I. K

130 HIS SERVANT’S ILLNESS.

power to pay. The effect produced upon the
servant of Captain Lechmere, by witnessing his
last struggles, was such, that he went to bed the
following morning with a determination to die;'
but the Captain knew the nature of his case, and
desired his servants to supply him with wine
whenever he wished it: he drew largely on the
Captain’s stores for three or four days, when he
announced solemnly to his messmates that at the
midnight bell he should be no more; he called on
the Captain’s servants for wine, and drank suffi-
cient to send him to sleep until three in the
morning, when he awoke, and much to his own
astonishment found himself a lying prOphet : his
disease was only of the imagination, produced by
sympathy and apprehension; of this the Captain
was convinced, and that a mental affection could
only be cured by an oblivious medicine. The
usual remedies of bleeding and physic would, by
lowering the system, have increased the disorder,
and in all probability have made his direful prog—
nostic true, instead of which he lived a year and
a—half afterwards, and then died of another dis-
order.

As the Barracouta had failed to ascend the
Dundas, the Cockburn, which did not draw more
than half as much water, was ordered to perform
that duty : on the 4th, she entered the river, and
next day proceeded to where the banks were
covered with timber and the water perfectly fresh.
During the time they were there the officers
made several excursions in the boats for the pur-

A MAN LOST. 131

pose of shooting the different birds and other ani-
mals that abounded on all sides. On one of these
occasions Lieutenant Owen, with Messrs. Brown
and Foot, midshipmen, left the schooner early
and proceeded up the river, until they arrived at
a plain covered with elks and deer : they amused
themselves with firing at these until late in the
evening, when they bent their steps towards the
river, in order to return on board. On arriving at
the boat, they were alarmed by the intelligence
that one of the crew was missing : they traversed
the neighbouring woods, constantly firing and
calling, under the impression that he might acci-
dentally have lost his way, but all to no purpose.
As the moon was up and the night advanced they
made a large fire, left a written notice by it,
and commenced descending the river with the
intention of sending back the next morning to see
if the absentee had returned. In consequence of
this delay the tide had ebbed so considerably that
in passing over a shallow the boat grounded on a
mud bank, where she stuck until the tide again
flowed. Lieutenant Owen and Mr. Foot got out
to renew the search for their companion ; but they
were suddenly roused by the tremendous roaring
of a beast on the bank near them, and in a mo-
ment saw a monstrous hippopotamus spring
from the shore and rush open—mouthed towards
them. The only musket in the boat was Mr.
Foot’s, but he had exhausted all his shot; his
'musket was, however, loaded with powder, and
with admirable presence of mind this youth fired
K 2

132 DANGEROUS SITUATION.

it in the face of the animal within a few feet.
The beast then went round the boat at about
twenty or thirty yards, and came up again to the
side of the river : in the mean time Foot loaded
with his last blank cartridge, and waited until the
animal was almost in the boat, when he dis-
charged it again in his face, and the assailant
finally retreated.

This is the only instance we ever met with
of an hippopotamus meeting a second fire.

With such a specimen of the ferocity of these
animals, even before the night was fairly set in, it
may be supposed that the situation of the party
was anything but agreeable, surrounded as they
were by hippopotami in every direction, without
a charge of powder, but obliged to depend on
their shouts for protection. This did not fail to
keep them on the quz' vice so long as the boat re-
mained aground; numbers at times rushing from
the long grass and weeds on the banks, their
really enormous bulk being increased four-fold
by the uncertain light and by the apprehensions
of the party. The boat, however, returned to the
vessel towards the morning, without farther mo-
lestation.

In a few days she rejoined us with a cargo of
wood and water for the vessels, but the former was
found quite brackish, yet whenever drunk from
the river it was perfectly fresh. “re learned that a
pump had been put overboard, and immersed about
three feet in the water, which was only filled at
the last quarter ebb-tide. It did not occur to the

FRESH WATER. ' 133

officers on that service that the fresh water was at
the surface only; consequently, to take water in
such cases, a tub or buckets should be sunk about
two inches beneath the surface, into which the
pump must be put; and with such a precaution
fresh water may sometimes be obtained at the
mouth of rivers even in the open sea.

This appears to have been the season when the
hippopotami cast their young, and our officers
had numerous adventures in the hope of obtain-
ing one carcase entire, but their hides were im-
penetrable; nor were they much more success-
ful with any other species of game. They saw
numerous herds of deer of two kinds, besides the
small antelope; and Mr. Brown, having been
detained a night on shore by the absence or deser-
tion of one of his men, saw several reptiles, and
fancied he heard the roar of a lion in some bushes
near his fire. We, however, since traversed the
same country, and can say, that if lions or
tigers do exist they are not numerous, and ser-
pents are even more rare.

The natives have an ingenious mode of destroy—
ing the hippopotami by means of a trap, which
they set in the particular openings through which
they are continually passing to and from the
water. This is formed by a young tree about
twenty feet high, placed perpendicular with the
side of the passage ; at the top is a weighty bough
in the lower end of which is fixed the iron head
of an assagaye, or spear; this is attached to the
young tree by means of some climbing plant to

134 TRAP FOR HlPPOPOTAMI.

answer the purpose of a cord, and, after being
turned two or three times round (just enough to
support it,) is brought down to the ground and
carried horizontally across the animal’s path, when,
as he never lifts his feet from the earth, he
breaks the cord, and the bough, falling like a
portcullis, drives the spear into his back: from
this wound he bleeds profusely, and rushes with
pain and fury to the water, where he shortly
dies; his death sometimes hastened by the iron
being poisoned. The body soon floats, when the
natives, who are constantly on the look-out, tow it
ashore, valuing the teeth for barter, and the flesh,
of which they are particularly fond, for food.

:”

FEVER ON BOARD. [33

CHAPTER VII.

Fever on board—Seizure of Roberts.———Mission to King Ma-
yetta.—The royal hut.—-—Approach of Mayetta.—Interview
with Mayetta.——The River Manice.—Parties of Hollontontes.
~—-Interview with them.——Their retreat.—-Musquitoes.———Cu-
riosity of the natives.——Two victims to the fever.—Astonish—
ment of the natives.-——Timpson’s cross.——-—Increase of fever on
board—Its serious character.——-Sufl‘erings of the sick—Lieu-
tenant Gibbons.——Death of Captain Cutfield.

‘

THE cases of fever on board now amounted to
upwards of twenty, among whom there was not
one who had not been employed away from the
ship; they were all either boats’ crews who had
been up the rivers, or those who at different times
had resided at the observatory ; of the number of
sufi‘erers from the latter was Mr. Forbes, the Bota-
nist, and a young Midshipman of the name of
Cannon. Captain Owen had also resided there for
three or four days, but fortunately without ex-
periencing any ill effects.

This spot was in consequence looked upon as
unhealthy, and the party stationed there recalled,
‘the instruments re-embarked, and the establish-
ment removed on boatd.

136 SEIZURE or ROBERTS.

We were constantly hearing from the natives
of the overbearing conduct of \Villiam Roberts
the seaman who had deserted from Captain Cut-
field during his expedition to the King of Temby.
This man now carried on a regular system of
plunder to maintain himself, which he was enabled
to do by the terror that his musket struck into the
poor and peaceable people. He baffled our pur-
suit for some time; but at length a Temby wo-
man informed us of the place of his concealment,
to which she guided an officer and a party of
marines sent to apprehend him, when he was dis-
covered sleeping in a hut, and brought on board.
His offence, in the former instance, had been for-
given, but now merited punishment. This was,
however, delayed until he had recovered from
the debility and disease produced by the pri-
vations and exposure to which he had been sub-
jected; but he was afterwards attacked by the
fever which, in four months, carried him_ to his
grave, on the spot of his delinquency.

After Mayetta had performed his first act of
sovereignty, by condemning Mombetta to die,
there still existed among the people an apparent
hesitation in acknowledging that they had de-
parted from their usual custom; and some even
yet denied that old Kapell was dead; but within
the time of our stay Mayetta was publicly acknow-
ledged king, when Lieutenant Boteler was dis-
patched with some presents, and a letter from
Captain Owen to him expressing the friendship of
the English, and the hope that a trade with any

MISSION TO KING MAYETTA. 137

of that country who might hereafter visit Delagoa
Bay would be promoted and encouraged by him.
The lieutenant had two boats, and a guard con-
sisting of a serjeant, corporal, four marines, and
five seamen. They ascended a small salt-water
river that for five miles took its winding course
through an extensive marsh, when they reached
a low, red, sandy precipice under which they
landed. This marsh was found strongly impreg-
nated with salt, from which the natives supplied
themselves, but it was in so filthy a state that
none of our party could make any use of it.
Lieutenant Boteler left the boats in charge of
a midshipman, and, accompanied by English Bill,
proceeded into the country; one of Mayetta’s
secretaries and another native being first sent in
advance to give the chief notice of his approach.
English Bill had informed Captain Owen that
the distance was trifling. It proved, however, to be
upwards of ten miles; a long way for those unac-
customed to walk beneath a burning sun, and
through a country without roads. They passed
several villages thickly inhabited. The country
was generally elevated about one hundred and
fifty feet above the level of the sea; and varied
in feature from the extensive plain to the gra-
dual slope and abrupt hill: great part of the land
was cultivated and sown with maize, rice, pom-
pions, millet, &c. The soil was composed of a fer-
tile red earth, mixed with vegetable matter and
with a parched and dry white sand, but capable of
yielding a plentiful crop. After about four hours’
walking they arrived at a large village, in the

 

.. :nnwmww’rv‘v - a 3’

138 THE ROYAL HUT.

midst of which was the establishment of the late
king Kapell, consisting of upwards of twenty huts
erected round a flat and extensive space; Kapell’s
was the largest, which, with its ornamented door,
distinguished it as a royal residence.

Perceiving that this but was deserted, Lieu-
tenant Boteler did not enter, fearful that he might
interfere with some religious or superstitious no-
tions of the people, connected with the respect
due to the residence of a lately deceased king.
On requesting permission, however, it was readily
granted, and, from the appearance inside, he had
no reason to doubt English Bill, who assured him
that, since “ Kapell gone dead, and Mayetta catch
’um all tings, you first man look ’um house.” The
allusion to “Mayetta catch ’um all tings,” meant
that Kapell’s effects, according to the custom of
the country, passed into the hands ofhis successor.
The diameter of the royal hut was twenty-three
and its height twenty—five feet. The interior was
a complete labyrinth of cobwebs. The roof was
neatly ornamented with basket-work, and the wall
decorated by a carved and not inelegant cornice.
In the centre was an elevated square for the fire,
and near it a bed of palm-leaves, resembling the
seat of a cane chair, on which the late venerable
king breathed his last.

The huts around had belonged to his wives,
but were now inhabited by other people. At
one of the doors an old woman was shaving
the head of her daughters, after the fashion of
the country; the instrument she used for this

APPROACH OF MAY ETTA. 139

purpose was shaped like the paddle of a canoe,
about three inches long and very sharp; a
man who lived in the next hut had his hair
shaved entirely off. Such a practice being very
uncommon, Lieutenant Boteler inquired the rea-
son, and was informed that it was a universal
custom upon the death of a wife. At the village
they were joined by Slangelly and several more
of the Kapell family, but could hear no tidings of
their chief, Mayetta.

After waiting two hours, Lieutenant Boteler
began to think that English Bill was deceiving
him, as he lately had deceived Captain Cutfield,
and accordingly taxed him in strong terms with
treachery ; when Bill, finding his honour at stake,
left the party to search for Mayetta himself. He
had been absent nearly two hours, but still no in-
telligence respecting Mayetta. Lieutenant Botc-
ler accordingly left the village to return to the
boat, deeming it imprudent to remain any longer.
They had proceeded about half-way, and were just
emerging from a wood, when, on looking back,
they were surprised by the appearance of a line
of glittering spears above the bushes rapidly ap‘- -
preaching them. Lieutenant Boteler instantly
concluded that some great chief was coming, and,
with the appearance of conferring an honour, but
in reality as a precautionary measure against sur—
prise, drew his men up in a line, and advanced
some fifty paces before them. He first saw Slan —
gelly, who came running up to inform him that
Mayetta was approaching escorted by his guards;

140 . INTERVIEW WITH MAYETTA.

he soon appeared, followed by upwards of one
hundred men armed with shields and spears, one
immediately preceding him with a long white
stick, with which he chastised those whose cu-
riosity led them to approach too near.

Mayetta was nearly six feet in height, about
twenty-two years of age, and of a manly and
commanding appearance; his dress consisted of
a long robe of fine scarlet cloth, edged with
gold lace more than half an inch in breadth.
Those around him appeared to pay great respect
in the tone of their voice, but no salaam or other
kind of salute was practised. He appeared
delighted with the presents, and, after Captain
Owen’s letter was interpreted, held a friendly
converse for nearly half an hour, when Lieu-
tenant Boteler took his leave, having previously
yielded much gratification by making the marines '
go through their exercise and discharge several
shots at a mark. Fire, who accompanied him,
had, from the time of landing, expressed himself
highly amused at his credulity in supposing that
the natives could ever permit him to see their
king; and, as an instance, he affirmed, that in
his own country, they had always a person ready,
whom, when necessary, they dressed as their sove-
reign to receive strangers.

On the 11th, a seaman died belonging to the
Level], and on the 14th, a marine named
Thomas VVaring. This man was in the habit of
attending Mr. Daniels, (midshipman,) a gentleman
who, at the time of VVaring’s death, was with the

THE RIVER MANICE. A 141

Manice party. About an hour and a half before
his dissolution, he opened his master’s chest, care-
fully placed every thing in order, returned to his
berth, gave the keys to a comrade, but was too
unwell to say to whom they belonged, was
shortly afterwards conveyed to his hammock, and
in a few minutes was no more.

The party employed in the exploration of the
River Manice consisted of six officers, twenty-
four seamen and marines, with four native inter-
preters, commanded by Captain Cutfield.

They left the Leven on the 5th, in the even-
ing anchored off the Island of Shefean, at the
entrance of the Manice, and the next morning
commenced surveying the river, first examining
the island. It appeared uninhabited, but they
found a pool of excellent water, and in the woods
the traces of deer and hippopotami. At its
entrance are several islets, with channels be-
tween them.

These islands, as well as the bank, were swampy,
and covered with mangroves. They found nume—
rous sand-hills thrown up by the sea against the
stream of the river, by which, as in many such
cases, the current was turned almost parallel to the
beach for more than twenty miles. After passing
these sand-hills they came upon a more cultivated
territory, thickly peopled, the inhabitants resem-
bling, in every respect, those of Mafoomo, Mat-
toll,and Temby. The soil appeared generally rich
and cultivated, so that the natives were enabled to
live in the greatest abundance and comfort, being

142 PARTIES or HOLLONTONTES.

almost protected from the attacks of the Hollon-
tontes by a branch of the Manice, which served as
nearly an insurmountable barrier to their pro-
gress ; for, like the rest of the Kaffers southward
of Delagoa Bay, these people have an extraordi-
nary dislike to trust themselves on the water.
Rice appeared their principal production, and that
so abundant as to enable them to carry on a lu-
crative trade with the people of Temby. The
right bank of the river, being exposed to the
attacks of the Hollontontes, was in a great mea-
sure deserted by the natives; and wherever they
remained, their canoes were ready to cross
the river on the first alarm, laden with their
little all, and sometimes their women and chil—
dren. On the morning of the third day, as the
party were ascending the river, they observed
the Hollontontes marching along the bank in
large and regular parties towards a town about a
mile in advance, of which, as the boats approach-
ed, they were observed to take possession.
Captain Cutfield determined, if possible, to
hold a conference with them. The detached
bodies with whom he at first attempted it were
suspicious, and would not approach; but the
collected force at the town, as if conscious of
its strength, being in number about two thousand,
appeared glad to avail itself of the opportunity.
Their head chief, Soonkundava, was unwell,
and could not appear; but several others, who
seemed possessed of great authority, and were ha-
bited in the same costume as Chinchinganey, were

INTERVIEW WITH THEM. 143

deputed to receive them. As they approached,
men with long white rods cleared the way for
them, striking with violence the shins of those
who came within their reach.

Several women, far surpassing in appearance
those of Delagoa, were present during this inter-
view. They were generally of a lighter shade than
the men, who were jet black Negroes. As the
costume of these chiefs was warlike, graceful, and
dignified, so was that of their women modest
and becoming. They wore kilts, formed from
stripes of hide, with ornaments on their arms,
bangles round their waists and ankles, large brass
rings in their ears, and caps on their heads, becom-
ingly made of hair and feathers.

This interview with the Hollontontes was con-
sidered a good opportunity for expressing the de-
termination that Captain Owen had formed, in
consequence of their treacherous attack on four
Temby party; accordingly, through the medium
of the interpreters, (who were very bad,) Captain
Cutfield informed them that, as they had thought
proper to commence hostilities, unless they de—
livered up hostages for their future peaceable
conduct, he would consider them as enemies, and
order them to be treated as such upon every
occasion.

To all this they paid but little attention; hos-
tages, they affirmed, were out of the question, as
they had nothing to do with the attack upon our
people, it having been made by another chief
without their knowledge. They rather abruptly

144 THEIR RETREAT.

closed the interview by stating that, unless the
party had something to sell, they wished to have
nothing more to do with them ; but, before part-
ing, offered to present them with seven bullocks,
for a passage in their boats across the water to
attack the natives on the other side, who, with the
river as their protector, were uttering a profusion
of gasconades, accompanied with various threat—
ening gestures.

The interview terminated by Captain Cutfield
informing them that, as they refused his terms,
they might consider war as proclaimed between
them, and that wherever they were seen they
would be treated as enemies; that the inhabitants
in the vicinity of the river were his friends, and
that unless they immediately quitted their town
a fire would be directly opened upon them. As
soon as this was concluded, which probably after
all was but imperfectly understood, the Hollon—
tontes began to move of in disorder, and quickly
retreated behind the hills.

The boats shortly afterwards arrived opposite to
a deserted Village, in which were some Hollon-
tontes busily employed in plundering the huts.
They were taken so much by surprise, that, before
they perceived their danger, they were within
reach of the musketry, which, as they hastily
retreated over the hills, sent after them a shower
of balls. When the Hollontontes commenced run-
ning away, a loud shout was set up by the inha-
bitants of a Manice village, on the opposite bank :
one of the chiefs at the same time asking why

MUSQUITOES. 145

they who loved plunder and termed themselves
warriors ran from the white men who offered so
desirable a booty ; but the North American war-
whoop, set up by Lieutenant Vidal, seemed to have
much more effect in precipitating their retreat
than the musketry, which was not directed to
harm but alarm them. -

On the evening of the 11th the further explora-
tion of the river was given up, the party in five
days having ascended nearly fifty miles. They
found its direction about North, running nearly
parallel to the sea—shore, from which it was not
distant more than three or four miles at any one
point. The water was fresh close to the mouth,
and the current in many parts running at the
rate of two miles and a half an hour.

During the night the innumerable musquitoes
were so troublesome as to render it almost impos—
sible for any of the party to sleep, and some who
were Visited by slight symptoms of fever, felt
severely their irritating attacks, which doubtless
increased the inveteracy of the disorder;

The natives several times ventured to visit the
party in their canoes, and bartered fowls, vege-
tables, and fruit, for trinkets and clothing. For
the latter they evinced great avidity, and even
when it was portioned out into the smallest pieces
they took it in preference. An old checked ‘
shirt, cut into ten parts, purchased as many fowls;
while buttons, knives, and tobacco, they appeared
to hold in little estimation, the last being, as the
natives informed them, collected in great abun-

VOL. I. L

146 CURIOSITY or THE NATIVES.

dance some distance up the river. In repassing
the village from which they had driven the H01-
lontontes, they found the inhabitants assembled
in groups beneath the trees, some dancing, others
employed in domestic pursuits, but by far the
greater number crowding to the water’s edge to
obtain a nearer View of the boats. The counte-
nanees of all expressed the greatest admiration
and surprise; and, that the children might have
their share of the sight, the women were observed
holding them up at arm’s length above their heads,
while the poor little wretches, too much fright-
ened to be pleased, were shrieking with terror and
struggling to escape.

From the astonishment displayed by these peo—
ple, and from their number, which certainly far
exceeded the probable population of the village,
it would appear that those of the surrounding
country, hearing of the boats having ascended the
river, had come down for the purpose of gratify-
ing their curiosity.

The survey of the river was completed, together
with its bar, and Shefean Island at its entrance, by
the 18th, and on the following day the boats re-
turned to their respective vessels.

Many of those employed upon this expedition
were shortly after their return attacked with fever,
which was now making dreadful ravages on
board.

Mr. John Timpson, our carpenter, and his
friend and assistant Mr. Simpson, the caulker,

TWO VICTIMS TO THE FEVER. 147

were amongst the victims. They had been em-
ployed on shore at the Portuguese establishment
in the repair of our boats, which, from their per-
petual service, were always out of order. As soon
as it was perceived that those thus occupied were
the first attacked by the fever, these men were
ordered on board with the others. Simpson, how-
ever, begged to be left on shore, as he had the
apartment which the Captain himself had occu-
pied, where he enjoyed comforts that he could
not obtain on board. Timpson was his principal
assistant and very old friend, and, as they lived
together, this request was made in the name of
both, and was acceded to, after some precautio-
nary advice calculated to induce care without ex-
citing that anticipation of ill so often the parent
of disease.

On the morning of the 19th we proceeded out
of the bay in hopes that the change would prove
beneficial to the unfortunate sufferers: to effect
this we were obliged to have the assistance of
some men from the Barracouta and Cockburn;
our want of hands likewise prevented us from
sparing a boat and crew to land the numerous
natives on board, both men and women, who all,
however, joined ~in the performance of the most
laborious duties.

These people were much frightened when we
got under weigh. The men talked of the misery
of their queen, “ when she look ’um sail go fall,
and ship go big water;” and many an anxious

L 2

148 ASTONISIIMENT or THE NATIVES.

glance could be observed amongst them as we
rapidly passed the headlands of the river; yet,
when spoken to, there was an attempt to look
cheerful from beneath a brow clouded by uncer-
tainty and suspicion, produced by the recollection
of several cargoes having been in this manner en~
trapped into slavery. The women were a little
more clamorous, fretting, sobbing aloud, and ejacu-
lating “ Mamanah! Mamanah !” (mother, mother ;)
but our anchoring off Shefean Island soon dissi-
pated all fearful apprehensions; the dance was
resumed to their wild chorus, the burden of which
touched upon their late suspicions with “ Chief-
any, big water, big water, no good,”

Having been accustomed to nothing but
Whalers and a few slave-ships, whose boats are
not qualified for working to windward, the natives
had no idea of a vessel under sail reaching an
object directly in the Wind’s eye. This was ex-
emplified on the occasion of Lieutenant Vidal
coming out of the Blanice River, when he was
obliged to make a tack before he could reach the
ship. English Bill, seeing the direction of the
boat’s head, drily observed, whilst composing him-
self for a nap, “ Me go sleep, now you look um
ship; dis night no catch V’um.” The operation of
tacking aroused him, he lifted up his head and
saw the ship not far off on the lee-bow; astonish—
ed and confounded he muttered, “ Eigh! Eigh !”
stared some time apparently in deep thought,
then sorrowfully hanging his head, exclaimed, as
if communing with himself, “ White man, Eng-

TIMPSON’S caoss. 149

lish man, sabby ebry ting, Delagoa man no
nutting, e d-—-n fool.”

Poor Timpson, our carpenter, was now much
worse; his voice became almost inarticulate, and,
like all who had died of the fever, when ap-
proaching their end, he became restless and im-
patient; nothing would allay this but being
brought on deck, when, supported by the gunner
and another, he tottered up, his head thrown back,
his eyes bursting from their sockets, with a smile
of agony playing on his lips. His appearance
altogether was horrible, and made the bystanders
shudder; it was the last effort of expiring nature,
and in a few moments he was a corpse. His
friend, the caulker, was not long before he fol-
lowed him; they were buried together on She-
fean Island, where a stone and wooden cross were
erected on their graves as a mark for survey-
ing, and called “ Timpson’s Cross.”

The Barracouta and Cockburn joined us on the
22nd, and were dispatched to take stations for the
survey of the. Great Bay, the former six miles
east by south, and the latter about eight miles
south by east. From these three points the rela-
tive distance was measured by sound and simul-
taneous angles, and from them all the other prin—
cipal points of the bay had their angular measures
taken.

As by this operation sufficient data were ob-
tained for laying down the relative situations
of these points, and from them measuring our
position, on the following day we all weighed

150 INCREASE or FEVER oN BOARD.

to traverse the bay, and then proceeded to Ele—
phant Island to explore the anchorage and dan-
gers near it.

In the evening, as we were coming into shoal
water, and making arrangements for examining
it more closely, we were caught in a furious gale
from the southward, which had given so little
notice of its approach, that it was only observed
by the Captain in time to clew all the sails down
and to anchor. This gust of wind was so violent
as to break our chain-cable, and our seamen could
hardly hold by the yards and rigging; we were,
however, soon prepared, and, having brought up
by another anchor, rode out the gale, which
lasted for about thirty hours, when it gradually
abated.

Both the other vessels had also brought up in
safety. On Sunday the 24th, the Barracouta
telegraphed that her captain, four officers, and
eighteen men were ill. As it was only the fourth
day of the fever being on board, this was a fright—
ful increase, and we could not but observe that
a strong wind, which is generally believed to be
a great purifier of the air and extirpator of dis-
ease, here appeared to be the messenger of death,
for our mortality now became dreadful in the
Leven and Barracouta, but strange to say, the
Cockburn had escaped without one case.

As the Barracouta rejoined us, we took Cap-
tain Cutfield on board, as Captain Owen was in
hopes that, by detaching him from his professional

ITS smuous CHARACTER. 151

duties, which were necessarily laborious, he might
be restored.

Shortly after her joining us there was an addi-
tion of six more seamen to the list of sufferers,
making in all twenty-nine, a fearful proportion
out of a crew of sixty. In both vessels the dis-
ease had assumed so serious a character, and was
so much on the increase, that destruction appeared
inevitable to all on board, unless something ef-
fectual was done to check its deadly progress.
Accordingly the surgeons and principal officers
represented to Captain Owen that, in their opi-
nion, some secure anchorage should be found open
to the sea-breeze, where the sick might receive
all the attention which their situation required;
that they considered the ships quite unfit for sea-
service in their reduced state, and that the labo-
rious employment of those still healthy rendered
them more liable to the attacks of the disease.

Upon this representation, apparently so just,
Captain Owen, in opposition to his own judg-
ment, which was at once to proceed to sea, re-
solved to comply with the wishes of his officers.
He, at the same time, stated his reasons for dif—
fering from them, the truth of which was fully
confirmed by the result. He was convinced that
the disease was, at this period, much more the
result of fear and anticipation than of the climate.
The constant operation of committing their com-
panions to the deep, and a superstitious fancy that
they were to be the next victims, preyed upon
and depressed the spirits of the men : “ the fever”

L m
“as, .

152 SUFFERINGS OF THE SICK.

was their only topic, every strange sensation was
looked upon as the first symptom, until the con-
stant anxiety and apprehension produced an excite-
ment, irritability, and nervous panic, which very
soon assumed the character of the complaint they
had so long been anticipating, when they sank
without a struggle to the grave.

Captain Owen, being convinced of this, con-
cluded that active employment was the most
likely by diverting the mind, to avert the attack
of the fever from the body; but, in compliance
with the wish so generally expressed, he consented
to give their proposal a trial, and accordingly on
the 26th worked into Port Melville, under Ele—
phant Island, where we grounded at low water.
Whilst in this situation, under a vertical sun and
almost calm for some hours, the sufferings of our
sick were so dreadful and apparently so much in-
creased, that Captain Owen called upon those
who had advised the measure, to say whether
they considered it likely to be productive of any
benefit. They were compelled to acknowledge
with regret that such was not the case, and in
the evening we again left Port Melville with the
sea-breeze, and anchored in the bay, where we
completed our water and provisions from the
Cockburn, and the Captain made arrangements
for the continuation of our survey.

On the evening of the 27th, the remains of Lien—
tenant Henry Gibbons were conveyed to the is—
land and there deposited in a beautifully secluded
spot with military honours; but, as thus slightly

LIEUTENANT GIBBONS. 153

mentioning the loss of so much worth is a poor
compliment to his memory, the language of
friendship shall tell the loss we sustained. The
following is an extract from the Journal of Mr.
Browne, who little thought, at the time he was
paying this sad tribute to his friend, that he
should himself become a victim to the same fatal
disease.

“ On the 20th of November, I joined his
Majesty’s ship Leven, Where I found many ill;
amongst them, between health and sickness, was
my dear friend, Lieutenant Henry Ashley Gib-
bons, a young man of most exquisite sensibility,
with a noble mind and warm heart, well informed
upon all subjects, and an excellent officer. To
witness the gradual decline of one so amiable
must have been a painful task to all; but to me
who was endeared to him by his confidence and
friendship, it was heartrending. One short week
blasted in the bud those prospects, which I had
fondly hoped would have bloomed in future years
of mutual affection. \Vith the patience of a
Christian he bore his last moments, and surren-
dered up a soul to its Maker, I trust, washed
clean from every blemish in the blood of an ap-
proving Saviour. The tears of all who knew
him paid tribute to his memory, and needless was
the injunction in this case, ‘1)6 mortuis nil rzisz'
bonum.’ The remains of my poor friend found
their last resting—place in the sands of Elephant
Island, a spot which for his sake I shall ever
revere.”

154 DEATH OF CAPTAIN CUTFIELD.

As Captain Cutfield’s case appeared of a mild
description, hopes were entertained that he would
have been able to rejoin his ship, if not to resume
his duties in a few days; but, on the 28th, he
relapsed into a state of insensibility, from which,
in about two hours, he awoke, and, starting up
in violent delirium, uttered the most frantic and
piercing shrieks until seven in the morning, when
he expired.

SUPERSTITIOUS FEAR. 1

U:
U!

CHAPTER VIII.

Superstitions feat—Fatal presentiments.——More victims.——Pru-
dence of the Natives—ChangeofOfficers-Track Survey-
ing—Aspect of the Coast—Naming of Places—Ridge of
Mountains.-—Islands.—French Settlements.—Native hair-
dressing—Native costume.——Native dance—Dexterity of
the Natives.—Their huts and looms—Animals and vegeta-
bles—Natural affection.—Laxity of virtue.

WERE every story to be recorded that at this
period was in circulation on board, it would show
the folly and weakness to which the minds of
men are subject; but, as exposing them is unplea-
sant, and as recording them is useless, we willingly
let them be buried in oblivion. It would hardly
be believed how great is the power of superstitious
fear upon the minds of the bravest; an apparent
danger can be met, may be overcome; but a hid—
den or fancied one subdues the energies required
to conquer it: the mind then becomes its own
enemy, and the physical courage is left unaided
to meet the contest. To the feeling heart it was
distressing to see the powerful frame and daunt-

l

156 FATAL PRESENTIM ENTS.

less courage of our seamen, shrinking and in fear
from some fancied or trifling ill. But let it not
be supposed that this weakness was confined to
the uneducated ; the same dread existed amongst
many of our officers, which the following account
of Captain Cutfield’s illness will alone serve to
illustrate.

He was, as before mentioned, in command of
the four boats sent up the King George River for
its exploration. On the 5th of November, he had
left Captain Lechmere unwell, but with some fa-
vourable symptoms, and with great hopes of his
ultimate recovery. Two days after the funeral of
the latter, some of the natives carried the news,
describing the ceremony of firing over the grave,
so as to leave no doubt in his mind as to the
rank of the deceased. Captain Cutficld was a
man of extreme feeling, and his sympathies thus
excited were kept in continual action by some of
his own crew and favourite men being taken ill
in his boats. On his return, and before he had
time to visit the Leven, two of them died; he
also complained of feeling rather unwell, but next
day accompanied Captain Owen on shore to fix
on the points to be used for the survey. T here
was, however, a settled gloom on his countenance,
which no cheerfulness in his companions could re-
move; and, on the day following, which had been
fixed for the public sale of Captain Lechmere’s
effects, he felt so languid and low-spirited that
he would not attend the auction. Some things
which it was known he wanted were bought for

FATAL PRESENTIMENTS. 157

him ; but when informed of it he coolly observed,
in a tone that marked too surely what was pass-
ing within, “, What is the use of them? they will
be sold again in a week.” At that time there was
nothing in his appearance that could have led to
the belief that he was ill, except his serious and
grave air. Yet true it is that he died precisely
on that day week, and three weeks after Captain
Lechmere, who had also expressed similar fore-
bodings of his fate two days before he was visibly
ill. Captain Cutfield was thirty years of age, and
had been a commander about fifteen years, hav-
ing been promoted to that rank when a very
young officer for a gallant action whilst lieu-
tenant of a sloop of war which captured a vessel
of superior force.

As his attachment to Captain Owen was more
than ordinary, so his loss could not fail of being a
subject of more than ordinary regret; but cir—
cumstances called for a command over the softer
feelings 'of the heart. At this fatal period eight
oflicers and many seamen were dangerously ill;
the least appearance of despondency in him to
whom they all looked up would have added de-
spair to minds already subdued by the wasting
malady under which they laboured. All that
attention and skill could do to alleviate their suf-
ferings was done; the voice of consolation and
the hand of kindness were ever ready to lighten
or soothe the pangs which were destroying them ;
the parched tongue and burning thirst, ever at-
tendant on the fevered frame, were moistened and

i

158 MORE VICTIMS.

allayed, while the frenzied eye was constantly
watched by some anxious friend or companion.
Yet all in vain! Death’s cold grasp was seizing on
the strong, the healthy, and the young; there
was no protection, and the only chance of arrest-
ing its destructive progress was to fly from the
fatal spot. Accordingly, on the morning of Cap-
tain Cutfield’s decease, we quitted Delagoa Bay,
leaving the Cockburn, whose crew was perfectly
healthy, to continue our work. But we could
not at once get rid of our destroyer, and whilst
beating out of the bay four of our seamen died
and many others were taken ill.

It will perhaps be interesting, before quitting
this place to mention the mode adopted by the
natives to cure this fever. As soon as the pa-
‘tient feels the first symptoms, he retires to his
hut, where he is kept warm until some water in
an earthen vessel placed on the fire is boiling hot.
It is then placed between his legs, while he sits
down and leans over the steam that arises from it.
In the mean time, those around envelop him in
mats, by which he is soon covered with perspi—
ration and occasionally half suffocated. The
whole is suddenly cast off, and at the same mo-
ment he receives a shower of cold water all over
his body; he is then hurried to the side of a
large fire kindled in the hut, and there placed in
a recumbent posture, while blood is extracted
from him insmall quantities by means of slight
incisions on his shoulders, breast, and the back of

PRUDENCE OF THE NATIVES. 159

his hands. The rest is left to Nature, whose re—
sources, powerful as they are, frequently fail to
restore the exhausted patient to life, perhaps ra~
ther confused by this irregular and apparently
desperate effort of art.

The unhealthy season prevails from the begin-
ning of September until the end of April; and, as
during that time the Whalers do not frequent the
bay, those who are engaged in the fishery can
bear the fatigues and exposure to which they are
subjected whilst obtaining their cargo, without
suffering from the pestilential vapours that arise
from the earth during the sickly months, and
which prove so fatal to casual visitors.

Some of the Delagoans were hired in the
place of our dead or dying seamen, having at this
period 10st twenty, and fifty being in their ham-
mocks. Previously to our sailing they received
the same provisions as our own people, and were
paid at the rate of one shilling per day, which
they were allowed to take either in tobacco or
clothing. For the former, as luxury, they had
hitherto shown much desire; but no sooner did
they perceive that, from its relative value, it occa-
sioned a great drawback in the receipt of the more
essential article of clothing, than they almost en-
tirely discarded its use, contentin g themselves with
a very limited enjoyment, thereby evincing the
command that their prudence had over one of
their strongest propensities, and affording a re-
markable contrast in their character to that of

160 CHANGE or OFFICERS.

many savages, who gratify the wants of the pre-
sent moment by the sacrifice of every other con-
sideration.

The Delagoans worked well, were respectful
in their behaviour, and showed their content by
the joyful chorus with which, like the Canadian
boatmen, they regulated the stroke of their oars
when pulling in our boats.

On the breeze setting in we were prevented
getting clear out to sea, and therefore anchored
for the night among the Cutfield shoals, on the
north end of the outer bar of Delagoa bay. The
dangers here being very imperfectly known, our
situation for the night was a most unpleasant one,
and, to add to it, we had the melancholy duty of
consigning our dead to the deep. On the follow-
ing morning, however, the weather was delightful,
and we got clear out of the bay, and began to
trace the coast from Cape Inyack southward.

The events of the last week occasioned a great
change in the officers of both vessels. Lieutenant
Vidal, being the senior lieutenant in the squadron,
was put in command of the Barracouta; Lieute-
nant VVilliam M udge, the next in seniority, who
was in the Barracouta, became first in the Leven ;
Lieutenant Thomas Boteler, second of the Leven,
became first of the Barracouta. Lieutenant Owen
still retained the command of the Cockburn.
Acting Lieutenant Edward Owen Johnes was
removed to the Leven, and Mr. George Daniels
appointed to the Barracouta in his place.

At Cape Inyack, which is the north point of

TRACK‘SURVEYING. 161

Inyack Island, and in most charts called Cape St.
Mary, we began to trace. and delineate the coast—
line to the southward: this was done by track-
surveying, which is performed by sailing along
shore as nearly as safety will allow, noting the
courses and distances as accurately and frequently
as possible; these are marked by a convenient
scale on a sheet of paper fitted in a frame. (Our
scale for this work was generally half an inch to a
mile.) At convenient times, angles and bearings
of remarkable objects on the shore are taken, and
immediately laid down on the paper by the same
letters of reference as are used in the notes. The
notes were kept by one person, the sketching and
projection by another, and both of these, with
another assistant, were usually employed to take
simultaneous angles and bearings, so that when-
ever we were on a coast this duty alone usually
occupied the exclusive attention of three or four
oflicers, besides those required for the current
duties of the ship, making and shortening sail, &c.

The leads were always kept going to get our
depth of water, and every cast was noted with
the instant it was obtained, so that it could at
any time be marked on the spot of the track to
which it belonged. “When all the vessels were
upon the same coast, each surveyed it, and the
results were afterwards brought together to be
adjusted by the astronomical observations made
during the same time. We usually obtained ob-
servations to fix our situation astronomically about
sun-rise, sun-set, and noon, which observations

VOL. I. M

162 ASPECT or THE COAST.

always served to correct any errors that might
have arisen in the estimated courses and distances
by mechanical admeasurement.

This coast is a continued tract of land and
sand-hills from fifty to five or six hundred feet
high, with a few straggling black rocks or large
stones, whose appearance seems rather anomalous ;
for from Cape Bajone, not far from Mozambique,
to the river St. Lucia, there can hardly be found
a stone anywhere near the sea, except the coral
reefs of the Angozha and Bazaruta Islands, a
small rock off Cape Corientes, and another spot
near Lagoa river, and Cape Reuben at the entrance
into English River, which last two places have
some rocks of indurated clay. The interior, the
whole distance from Cape Inyack, seemed a low
level country, with some knots of trees like park
land ; but a short way from the beach a few hills
were sometimes visible, about three or four leagues
from the shore, apparently eight hundred or a
thousand feet high. We passed the situation as-
signed to Gold Down’s River, where at that time
there certainly was no opening to the sea, nor
could we observe anything like the entrance to a
river.

It is not hence to be inferred that it does not
exist, for we found all the rivers on this coast
entirely blocked up by sand in the dry season.
We also looked out for the St. Lucia, which we
knew had been visited by that part of the Dod-
dington’s crew who escaped from her wreck in
1755 on the Chao Islands, Algoa Bay, but we

NAMING or PLACES. 163

found that it was in the same manner completely
blocked up.

Its situation is, however, rendered remarkable
by a low sugar-loaf rock, near what should be the
entrance in the rainy season. At Cape St.
Lucia, a few miles south—west of the river, the
coast assumes a bolder aspect; the land from
thence, west, forms a bend, leaving a bank of
soundings, which, in some parts, extends full six
leagues off shore. This was before unknown, and
is very different from any other, being muddy,
with a lead-coloured bottom. As we were on
this bank, tracing the coast as far as Fisher’s River,
on the day our master, Mr. William Henry Mor—
ley, died, as well as Mr. VVatkins, one of our
young midshipmen, the bank, and one of the
creeks, or small rivers, was named Morley’s Bank
and creek, after the former, and another Watkins’
Creek, after the latter.

This was a melancholy mode of obtaining
names, but unhappily there is not a remarkable
spot from English River to this bank that does
not record the fate of some -of our departed
shipmates. ‘

As before-mentioned, it is usual to cover the
remains of the dead with the Union Jack, until
consigned to the deep. This is attached to the
grating, on which the corpse is laid, when launch-
ed into its ocean grave. Upon the bier being
again brought on board, it is usual to hoist the wet
colour to dry; consequently this signal of death,
from either vessel, bore the fatal news imme-

M 2

164 RIDGE or MOUNTAINS.

diately to the other; when the imagination of
every one was immediately exercised in fancying
who the last victim might have been. But our
conjectures were frequently wide of the truth, so
rapid was the transition from perfect health to
eternity, and from apparent dissolution to re-
covery ! But the pleasing effect of novelty, toge-
ther with the sea air, produced a most salutary
change in many, who, when we left the bay,
were in a very precarious state ; and, as usual, the
favourable turn in their disease was accompanied
by excessive ill—humour, and a childish impatience
occasioned by the sense of pain (hitherto dead-
ened by disease) becoming once more acute. Yet
many died; a midshipman, two seamen, and a
boy, in the Leven; and the boatswain, a marine,
and aboy, on board the Barracouta, being amongst
the latest Victims.

A ridge of mountains takes its rise in about
29° south, at a point of the coast which we named
Point Durnford, (after the young officer who was
appointed to delineate it;) and, striking directly to
the westward, it increases in height and magni-
tude as it advances into the interior. It then ap-
pears to run nearly parallel with the coast to the
southward, even to the confines of our colony.
The mountains forming this ridge are from three
to six thousand feet high, and separate that most
beautiful and fertile tract usually known by the
name of Natal from the surrounding countries.

Through these mountains there is said to be
but one pass used by the natives going to the

ISLANDS. 1 65

northward, and by that pass the Zoolos have
poured upon the people on the other side, and de-
populated, laid waste, or entirely subjugated them
even as far as Inhamhan.

On the 7th the wind blew a strong gale from
the south—west, with thick rainy weather, which
caused much suffering to our invalids. we there—
fore stood out to sea, steering south-east, passing
over the place assigned to an island called Juan
de Lisboa, but without seeing any indication of its
existence. This island has, for many years, been
sought in vain: and yet there are public records
both at Mauritius and Mozambique, of establish-
ments having been formed there. But it may be
questioned whether the island called the Bassas
da India, or, as we afterwards named it, Europa
Island, is not the same. This is in some measure
corroborated by its being reported full of wild
hogs.

December 21st, we obtained sight of the small
island of St. Mary, and of the lofty hills of M a-
dagascar, in the distance; and next morning
reached the anchorage near the French colony
on Quail Island, or Isle Madame. Here we
found two frigates of that nation, one, which
had brought out the troops and settlers, was
moored inside, beng merely used as a guard-ship ;
the other was only a store-ship, but with a re-
gular staff of officers.

The island of St. Mary, or as it was formerly,
and still is called by the hIaligah, Nas Ibrahim,
is thirty—one miles long, north-east by north,

166 FRENCH SETTLEMENTS.

and south-west by south, and from two to three
miles in breadth, situated in latitude 160 41’, and
17° 8’, south, and longitude 49° 46’ and 50° 2’
east. Its surface presents a succession of hills from
two to four hundred feet high, with deep, and in
general, narrow vales, thickly covered with trees
and underwood, in some places so interwoven by
creepers as almost to defy any efforts to penetrate
them.

Twice the French formed a settlement on this
island, which the climate, in the first instance,
obliged them to abandon, but in the second they
were massacred in retaliation for some cruelties
which they had practised upon the natives ; a
memento of whose bloody and annihilating re-
venge was erected some years afterwards, and still
capped the summit of a shelving hill at the back
of the present settlement.

The expedition for the present establishment
was fitted out in 1821, and the French again took
possession of Isle Madame and the port towards the
latter end of the same year; an unfortunate and
ill-chosen period for their arrival, as, before their
constitutions were in the slightest degree inured
to the climate, they became exposed to the deadly
influence of the sickly season, which commences
in January and continues until the middle of May :
the consequence of this was, that, in the first three
months, their numbers were reducedfrom two hun-
dred and ninety to one hundred and thirty. Isle
hiadame, a low coral islet, was constituted their
citadel, having a small fort, hospital, barracks, &c.

NATIVE HAIR-DRESSING. 167

This place is resorted to every night for safety by
all the colony, with the exception of the planters.
Two streams of water empty themselves into the
harbour, at the entrance of which the island is
situated, thus affording a constant supply to the
shipping that may chance to call at the port.
The harbour is very small, but sufficiently deep
for the largest ships, and the roadstead, being per-
fectly sheltered from all winds, affords at any
time a safe and convenient anchorage.

Shortly after our arrival several canoes came
off, crowded with men and women; they appear-
ed generally short, and rather darker than mu-
latoes, with low foreheads, broad and flat coun-
tenances, large eyes, and capacious mouths. They
had all long hair but crisped, which by the men
was collected into knots, without much regu-
larity: but the women wore it neatly divided
into seven, nine, or eleven squares, from the
centre of which issued a large and bushy knob,
presenting to a stranger, especially when com-
bined with the short and braided pigtail, a most
ludicrous yet far from unpleasing effect, when in
connexion with that lively expression of coun-
tenance and grace, which Nature, in her freaks,
as often denies to royalty, as she grants it them the
humblest subject, or to the wildest savage of her
creation.

The men in general had no clothing, With the
exception of a piece of their native cloth wrapped
carelessly round their loins, and descending to the
knee; but the women exhibited much fancy and

168 NATIVE COSTUME.

some taste in their costume: they were habited
in blue spencers, with long sleeves, fitting tight
to the body, and ending just below the bosom,
where the skin, for the breadth of an inch, was
left exposed; this was succeeded by two pieces of
cloth, the one serving as a petticoat, and the other
as a gown, which were fastened by the ends being
carefully tucked in between the body and the
first folds that embraced it. None of them wore
trinkets or ornaments of any kind, excepting a
very few who had earrings.

Some of the men had baskets fashioned like the
half of a ball for hats, with three points worked
on the top, which served as legs for it to stand on
when not in use. Both sexes appeared particu-
larly careful of their teeth, which were beauti-
fully enamelled, white, and regular; they clean
them with snuff, for which purpose they use
large quantities. The women are particularly
cleanly, except in the practise of anointing their
hair with cocoa-nut or whale oil.

Few of the people remained on board at the first
visit, but afterwards came off in great numbers,
and for our entertainment exhibited their native
mode of dancing. Like those of Delagoa, one
generally led the song, while the rest, sitting
around, joined in the chorus and clapped their
hands

The dancer commenced by throwing her arms
in a diagonal position, at an angle with her body,
and her head on one side: thus adjusted, she
begins to beat a tattoo with her feet, screams

NATIVE DANCE. 169

forth her song, regains an upright posture, and
swims along with a languid mincing pace, accom-
panied by a diminished exercise of her heels.
Having reached the end of the space allotted
for the exhibition, she commences writhing
her body and throwing her arms about; then
returns, beating a loud tattoo, her Hottentot
extremity stretched out, and keeping time to the
music by a vibratory horizontal motion. The
technical term of “ making a stern—board ” was fa-
cetiously applied by the seamen to this retrograde
movement. Ludicrous as was this dance, still,
when executed by an elegant figure, many parts
of it were far from being devoid of grace. These
women were altogether better looking, their
clothing superior, and their dancing more pleasing
than those of Delagoa; they were likewise much
less abject, but, in native modesty, the latter were
far superior.

The canoes are small, of the common form, and
delicately made; but, slight as they appear, the
natives venture far from the land, and will some-
times attack with success the largest whales, that
sport in great numbers between the island and
the main. They cautiously approach the mon-
ster, and, with their neatly—formed iron harpoons,
which have along line and buoy attached to them,
strike him deeply in the side. VVrithing in
agony, he dives to seek relief in the depths below,
but short is his respite: he finds but little space
in this shallow sea, and rises again but to meet
his watchful foe, who, guided by the tell-tale

170 DEXTERITY or THE ' NATIVES.

buoy, is prepared to repeat the deep and exhaust-
ing wound. He struggles, but it is in vain; the
conflict is soon at an end, and terminates in tow-
ing the huge body in triumph to the shore. It
did not appear that the people of this island had
any particular form when attacking whales, like
those on the main, who never pursue an old one,
but always the young, when they humbly beg
the mother’s pardon, stating the necessity that
drives them to kill her progeny, and requesting
that she will be pleased to go below while the
deed is doing, that her maternal feelings may not
be outraged by witnessing what must occasion
her so much uneasiness.

On the 27th we saw an extraordinary instance
of the dexterity of the natives. The Leven
caught two sharks, one a male, about thirteen
feet in length, and the other a female, nearly two
feet longer. On ripping open the latter, forty-
eight young ones were taken out, each about
eighteen inches in length ; they were lively and
active, and, when thrown overboard, swam round
the"ship, evidently by no means reconciled to
their abandoned situation, but in anxious search
for their mother. The natives saw and pursued
them in their canoes, and with curved and
barbed assagayes transfixed them with the utmost
precision, even when eight or ten feet under
water, not in a single instance missing their aim.

A short time before our arrival, an English mer—
chant—ship was cast away at Foule Point, Mada-
gascar, and the crew, after a most. distressing

THEIR HUTS AND LOOMS. 171

journey of many days’ continuance, arrived at
Point L’Arée, within about two miles of St.
Mary, and effected their passage across to the is-
land. Most of them had left some time previously
in an English vessel, and we took on board the
remainder consisting of twelve lascars : worn down
by fatigue and repeated attacks of the fever, they
were reduced to a most debilitated state, and
at different periods, after we sailed, four of the
number died.

The tree, called fan palm, is here very plenti-
ful, and is a most invaluable production to the in-
habitants; with its leaves they construct their
houses, the sides being neatly interwoven, and
the stalks serving as intermediate supporters,
while the roof is formed by carefully fixing and
spreading them in the overlapping or tile fashion.
The hut presents altogether the appearance of an
English cottage, and is generally about twenty feet
long by twelve broad, always elevated one or
two feet above the ground to avoid the earthy
exhalations.

In both villages were several looms for weaving
cloth, the coarser sorts of which form a consider-
able part of their commerce with Mauritius and
Bourbon, where it is used for boat-sails, packages,
&c. The fine and parti-coloured kinds they
either sell to the curious stranger, or use to clothe
themselves. Some specimens which may be pro-
cured are beautiful, and, considering the uncivi.—
lized state of the people, highly creditable to
their ingenuity and industry; they are made of

172 ANIMALS AND VEGETABLES.

the fibres of the rqfla, or sago-palm leaf, and are
extremely du 'able.

The animals of this place are neither numerous
nor varied; amongst them are the guinea-fowl,
White water hen, and black parrot; the common
and Muscovy duck, with geese and fowls, are
kept by the natives in a tame state, which, con-
sidering the place, sell at rather a high rate,
eight fowls, or four ducks, for one dollar, and
four geese for three, being their usual price.
Beasts are even more scarce than birds; bul-
locks, and a very few goats, being the only pro-
ductions of that kind; but this scarcity is not
much felt by the inhabitants, as their principal
subsistence consists in fish and vegetables. These
last are very abundant, and consist of bananas
of a fine quality and large size; cocoa-nuts, re-
cently imported; pineapples, mangoes, Seville
oranges, plantains, sugar-canes, rice, yams, cas-
sada, sweet potatoes, cabbages, carrots, radishes,
onions, and coffee; which latter, but lately tried,
has answered their utmost expectations. In fact,
such is the fertility of the soil and its variety, con—
sisting of shelving hills, broad vales, steep mounts
and deep glens, but more particularly the mois-
ture of its climate, that there can be no doubt
that it would bring forth every tropical pro—
duction.

Independently of cloth, the natives make some—
thing by the sale of shells, wax, and the turmeric
plant, used for dyeng and as an ingredient in
the composition of currie-powder. The natives

NATURAL AFFECTION. 173

forge iron; the bellows they use being of an
ingenious construction, deserve mention. Two
small cylinders, having pistons in them, gene-
rate the blast, which passes through a small
pipe from each, uniting in one common vent,
through a sheet of iron, against which the fire is
kindled; this feeds the flame with an unceasing
supply, for as the man who works the piston
raises one, he depresses the other, and thus keeps a
constant current of air in action. The chief
amusement of the women is dancing, and that
of the men looking on and drinking.

Chastity is no virtue at Madagascar, and is
even unknown after nine or ten years of age.
Yet the ties of natural affection are as strong as
in more civilized countries, which the following
instance will tend to corroborate.

A girl, who had engaged herself to accompany a
male cousin as interpreter, &c. to a distant island,
was daily, during her absence, most bitterly la—
mented by her mother, who, in the. fulness of her
affection, conjured up the most dismal apprehen-
sions as to her child’s fate—“ She would be a
slave—«she would be drowned—she would perish
in a foreign clime among those who knew her
not.” In fact, no sufi‘erhtgs, however dreadful,
could surpass those which this anxious and fond
parent was constantly picturing as the lot of her
daughter. Yet, at the time of her departure,
that very mother was receiving the price of her
prostitution from a French paramour. She was
absent nearly a year, and on her return the meet-

174 LAXITY or VIRTUE.

ing was affecting in the extreme. After mutual
tears and embraces, the mother washed her
child’s feet, and in earnest of her affection after-
wards drank the water. The term prostitution,
in the sense used by us, when applied to this
custom, is perhaps a harsher one than it calls for;
as, sanctioned by the general habits of the country.
it scarcely deserves the same degree of odium
as when practised by people aware of its im-
moral and sinful tendency : but it is strange how
very soon travellers become reconciled to this
laxity of Virtue, and look upon it in a less heinous
light; particularly here, as these women, when
attached to a man by marriage, (for they do
marry, although polygamists,) are remarkable for
their constancy, excepting those of high rank,
who as in other countries, claim a greater licence.

THE SEASONS AT ST. MARY’S. 175

CHAPTER IX.

The seasons at St. h’lary’s.——Treatment of fever.——Going on
shore.———Landing.-~The royal palace—Interview with the
King—The Prince’s-house.—Market on the beacln—Jo-
hanna.——Its natives.—Leave Johanna.

ALTHOUGH St. Mary’s is so small‘ an island, yet
the population in blacks is from twelve to fifteen
hundred, a portion of whom are slaves to the rest.
They pay no duties to the French, and are ame-
nable only to their own laws.

During the sickly season there is a powerful sun
with a cloudless Sky; while for the remainder of
the year rain is almost incessant, and the heavens
are constantly overcast. That the wet season should
be the most healthy at first appears strange, but
when it is considered that, however great the fall
of water, there is no sun to draw it up in pu-
trescent vapours from the earth, and thus to
generate disease, it no longer appears so. The
French, in treating the fever, found that bleeding
was highly prejudicial; they therefore never had

176 TREATMENT or FEVER.

recourse to it since their first severe losses, ex-
cepting where the patient was of a highly ple-
thoric habit. The reason was, that although for
the time it appeared to subdue the fever, yet such
was the general debility it produced, that, in case of
a second attack, Nature, already deprived of her
strength, sank unresisting and exhausted. If
the patient was of a bilious habit, and evinced
any inclination to discharge the contents of his
stomach, an emetic was immediately adminis-
tered; in any other than in these two cases,
bark was their universal remedy.

Whilst at St. Mary’s, two of our shipwrecked
Lascars died, never having recovered from the
fever, fatigues, and privations they had ,suf-
fered since the loss of their ship. “re expe-
rienced at St. Mary’s the fatal effects of sleeping
on shore at night. The second master of the
Leven very narrowly escaped becoming a victim
to his own imprudence, and was lingering on the
verge of eternity for nearly a month; while of
four seamen who deserted, and were on shore for
two nights before they were retaken, one died
within a few days, two were long in a precarious
state, and were finally obliged to invalid home;
the fourth being the only one who escaped with—
out any ill consequences.

On the forenoon of the 8th of January 1823,
we left St. Mary’s, and next day stood out to sea
on our way to Johanna. The morning of the
21st we obtained sight of the lofty island of that
name, but so great was the distance, that the

GOING ON SHORE. 1'77

dusk of the evening Commenced before we ar-
rived near its shore. We therefore stood out to
sea for the night, and next morning hove-to off
the chief town, situated 011 the north side of the
island. Mr. Boteler, "now first lieutenant of the
Barracouta, was sent with two boats to wait
on the Sheik, or King; the following account of
his proceedings is extracted from his Journal.

“ Our principal object in going on shore was to
obtain stock, for which purpose there was also a
boat sent from the Leven. As we approached
the land, we perceived a heavy surf rolling in on
its rocky boundary, near to which, off the town,
the Leven’s boat had anchored a short time before
our arrival.

“ A native canoe, with outriggers on each side,
came off to her for the purpose of taking lVIr.
Forbes the botanist ashore. This gave me an op-
portunity of discovering the landing-place, which
otherwise I should have had some difficulty in
doing. The surf extended more than one hundred
yards from the black and pointed rocks of the reef,
and the canoe, as she passed through, was com-
pletely buried, and for a few seconds lost to our
sight; her outriggers, however, precluded the
possibility of her being overturned, and soon on
the top of a curling sea we observed her éborne
with impetuous violence through a narrow open-
ing in the reef, and in a moment disappear. I was
doubtful whether to follow, especially as a native,
who came off, informed me that the attempt, al-
though there was plenty of water in the channel,

VOL. I. N

178 LANDING.

would be highly dangerous. Nevertheless, I re-
solved to try, and accordingly watching a wave, I
cheered the crew, who seemed to feel for my re-
sponsibility, and in two minutes we got safely in;
the principal precaution appeared to be that of
keeping good way upon the boat, so that the cross
sea and reflux of the waves from the rocks
might not turn her from her course, as the entrance
was so narrow that in shooting through the oars
touched on either side.

“ We found the place scarcely large enough to
hold a dozen small boats, while the reef that
divided it from the sea was low, and about twenty
feet across. The beach was covered with spec-
tators, who hemmed us in on landing, and with
hearty shakes of the hand welcomed us to their
island. This truly Arabic, and by the English
respected, mode of salutation certainly is agree-
able after a long voyage and many privations.
For a man, after being at sea for some time, almost
begins to fancy that there is no land, nor any
other food but salt beef and hard biscuit; and
therefore feels keenly the delights of new society,
milk, and bread, not to mention fresh meat, and
whatever else the place he touches at may afford.

“ The men (for being of the Mahometan reli—
gion, the women are not permitted to appear in
public,) were arrayed in the Eastern costume,
with turbans, robes, full trowsers, sandals, and a
waistcoat fitting close to the body, round which, a
little above the hips, was drawn a girdle of cloth,
serving at times for the turban, ornamented with

THE ROYAL PALACE. 179

a highly decorated brace of pistols, and a carved or
straight dagger, but more generally the latter only,
while at their side was suspended a rich Turkish
cimeter. The materials of their garments were
as gaudy as their arms; those of the higher
classes being of damask silk, of various patterns
and devices, sometimes tastefully edged with gold
lace.

“ One of the chiefs, a crafty old rogue, commonly
known by the name of ‘ Lord Rodney,’ who was
some time afterwards detected in a petty theft,
and disgraced by his countrymen for being found
out, acted as captain of the port, interpreter, ven-
due-master and master of the ceremonies; in which
last capacity he accosted me with a low salam, no-
tifying his Majesty’s wish that we should wait upon
him forthwith. Accordingly, conducted by this
old gentleman, we proceeded through several intri-
cate, narrow, and dirty alleys to the royal pa-
lace. Passing through a guard-room, containing
upwards of two hundred stand of small arms and
various other implements of war, we entered a
capacious and lofty chamber, hung around with
arms, carved elephants’ tusks, &c. and furnished
with a ponderous table, covered with a red silk
damask cloth, with a long stool or form on either
side, and cushions cased in the same materials
and trimmed with gold fringe. At the upper
end of this apparent council-board, the throne
was elevated on a couple of steps, in all the pomp
of tinselled grandeur. It consisted of an old-fa-
shioned high-backed chair, cushioned with red

N 2

180 INTERVIEW WITH THE KING.

silk damask, and covered with a 610th of the same,
richly worked and embroidered with gold lace.

“ We were requested to sit down, and shortly
after the King appeared, salamed, bade us wel-
come, and sedately adjusted himself in his chair
of state, while his chief men stood attentively by
or sat down with us. He was apparently about
seventy years of age, in stature rather above the
common height, and of an appearance by no
means prepossessing; his features were large and
coarse, and the air of moroseness and gloom that
pervaded them was heightened by» a natural de-
fect in one eye, which was not at all relieved by
a benignant expression in the other. His robe
was of red damask silk, literally covered with
lace, gold trinkets, and either real or artificial
stones of great beauty. On his head was a huge
cap, like that formerly worn by the soldiers of
several of our regiments, somewhat resembling an
inverted sugar-loaf without a rim: this was neatly
worked with gold wire, and encircled near the top
by a coronet of ducal form, studded with precious
stones and a brilliant star. He had a sabre at his
side, with two handsome daggers, the scabbards of
which were gold, and a brace of pistols beautifully
ornamented and carved in his girdle.

“Although the King understood English, he
could speak but little; his observations were
therefore communicated through the interpreta-
tions of ‘ Lord Rodney.’ His first question rather
amused us; it Was ‘ How is King George and
my good friends in England ?———what is the news

INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. 181

from that country and the continent?’ Having
replied to this, in the name of Captains Owen and
Vidal I expressed great regret that our duty
would not admit of delay, and that, next to‘the
honour of paying their respects to his Majesty,
their object in calling of the island was to obtain a
supply of stock, fruit, and vegetables, to renOVate
the health of the crews of the two vessels, who had
suffered so much from the fever. By the royal
answer I was given to understand, that every
thing ‘we requested, and that could be procured
during my limited stay, should be immediately
provided: accordingly, my Lord Rodney was
sent from the presence with necessary directions
for that purpose.

“While this momentous subject was on the
carpet, the governor of the town, a sprightly,
intelligent old man entered, and shuffled up to
the throne, at the foot of which he cast himself
on his knees, salamed, and then, with a theatrical
air, kissed the left hand of his Majesty. We were
detained at the divan about half an hour; our
time being taken up in reading English letters
for the King, and drinking healths in cocoa-nut
milk out of English tumblers. Prince Alli had
made us promise to pay him a visit at his own
house; accordingly, after the interview with his
father, we accompanied him to his residence. As—
cending a flight of stone steps, and passing through
a ponderous door carved with various devices, we
entered a large hall more remarkable for its clean-
liness than display of furniture; through this

182 THE PRINCE’S HOUSE.

we followed the Prince into a smaller apartment,
in which was a table laid out with six plates of
sweetmeats, having a pair of silver sugar-tongs
and. a spoon in each, together with a handsome
display of cut glass tumblers for sherbet. The
room was furnished with gilt sofas covered with
red. damask silk; and in one corner stood a small
but handsome English bedstead, the furniture of
which was richly embroidered with gold, and the
whole covered with mosquito curtains. The walls
exhibited a curious display of arms and trinkets.
Beyond this was another room, ornamented with
saucers painted in a variety of colours, from which
a folding door communicated with the Princess’s
apartment. She was not to be seen, but sent her
welcome and compliments, together with a pre-
sent to each of a small grass fan, formed like a
flag, which, put in motion by the attendants, pro-
duced a constant and refreshing current of air.
“VVe sat down with the Prince, who did not
eat; but out of curiosity I tasted the contents of
the different plates; they were principally of rice
disguised in various ways with sugar, syrup, or
spices. A man was introduced who, we were in-
formed, sang ‘ God save the King ;’ but as he
was not very particular in the tune, and less so
in the words, we should for ever have remained
in ignorance of his intention but for this informa—
tion; it, nevertheless, answered the performer’s
purpose, being received as a compliment and paid
for accordingly. The banquet ended by the Prince
presenting each of us with a liqueur-glass on a

MARKET ON THE BEACH. 183

silver salver, containing a small portion of laven-
der-water, and at the same time some burn-
ing frankincense was passed round, to regale our
sense of smelling; following the Prince’s example
we anointed our hair with the lavender-water, and
then took our leave.

“ Upon arriving on the beach we found a
scene of extreme confusion and discord amongst
upwards of five hundred competitors, who had as-
sembled to dispose of their effects to our grand
purveyor and factotum, my Lord Rodney. We
of course were immediately the objects of clamo-
rous importunity, and various were the specimens
of petty mercantile finesse which were exhibited
by the different candidates for preference. I was
bartering for some fowls with a native, when
another, who had a like number to dispose of,
jostled me to attract attention, and, with a sly yet
expressive smile of contempt, touched with one
of his fingers, his arm being kept close to his
side to escape observation, the fractured limb of
the primest of his opponent’s commodities.

“ I turned round to find a better market, when
the arch look of another struck me as he at-
tempted to imitate the last dying struggles of a
fowl belonging to the very man who had just
before attempted to depreciate his neighbour’s
stock, with the View of obtaining me as purchaser
for his own. \Ve loaded our boats with the
greatest portion of the supply, consisting of goats,
ducks, fowls, pine-apples, cocoa-nuts, oranges,
limes, pomegranates, guavas and onions, together

184 JOIIANNA.

with a variety of very handsome straw mats,
which the natives use for sleeping on with a mat-
tress or cushion beneath; but the wind and surf
were high, and a heavy squall of thunder, light-
ning, and rain, overtook us, so that much of our
stock was entirely and we half drowned, before
we got on board. ~

“ Johanna, although not the largest of the Co-
moro Islands, is much more visited than the rest;
the scenery is on a grand scale and highly pictu-
resque, varying from the lofty summit, capped
with verdure, to the deep glen and luxuriant vale.
The inhabitants are rather below the usual size,
delicate yet well-formed, with a pleasing and fre-
quently handsome expression; their complexion
being lighter than that of the mulatto, and their
carriage exhibiting more of the courtier’s grace
than the manly firmness of independence.

“ The people of these islands have by some
means obtained a high character in England for
honesty and attachment to our nation, but I
rather doubt whether they deserve it; at the same
time I should much regret depriving them of a
thing which it is so difficult to obtain. Yet, in
honest truth, all who have dealt, or been amongst
them, must own that they are little thieves, great
rogues, and enormous cowards ; to these qualities
are to be added a certain portion of deceit,
utter disregard of truth, the most abject flattery,
and inordinate covetousness, when the sum total
will about leave the Johanna man. If you meet
any of these people they almost universally accost

ITS NATIVES. 185

you with, ‘ How you sleep last nightP—En-
gleseman, Johannaman, all the same as one——
you Englesemans give me, Johannaman, one
hundred dollars! no fifty, no ten, no one dol-
lar, no! Ah, you no good friend; me very poor,
you very fat, (rich,) suppose you see me—Johan-
na me home—me give you too much then, why
you no give me nothing here ?”—he meaning,
literally, that you must give him something, but
you, feeling confident that if you were the beg-
gar he would give you nothing.

“ I suppose it must be on account of their in-
sulated position that the English cherish these
people. W e somehow like islanders better than
coniz'neuters; they appear separated from the follies
- and vices that contaminate so large a portion of
mankind: but it is not so, they generally have
them all introduced by their maritime intercourse,
with the addition of a few select sins of native
growth for private use. It is true, and with plea-
sure I state it, that when English vessels have been
wrecked on these islands they have shown the
crews every kindness and attention ; this I would
fain not consider policy: but, having no maritime
power of their own, it may be wise to keep on
good terms with those nations that have, (for, when
in a scrape, they always expect, like others that
might be mentioned, some foreign power to get
them out of it) and as they are sure of being well
rewarded for their hospitality, such an uncharitable
interpretation might be put upon their proceed-
ings. \V hen attacked by the Malegash, after the

186 LEAVE JOHANNA.

first skirmish, they ran away, and left their ene-
mies to occupy in peace a large portion of their
island, and plunder the remainder whenever they
felt inclined; and, had it not been for English
intervention, they would always have been sub-
ject to their invaders. But I will leave these
islanders to the peaceable enjoyment of their good
name, and try to be more charitable in future.”

Upon Lieutenant Boteler’s return with the
provisions we bade adieu to the cloud-capped
heights of Johanna and its neighbouring isles;
and the next day, January the 23rd, parted from
the Barracouta, she having instructions to make
a direct course for Mozambique, while we steered
-for the Querimba Islands, and then continued
our survey to the southward. We passed between
Great Comoro and Mohilla, looked for the re-
ported dangers south of the former without
success, and on the ninth day anchored in Mo-
zambique harbour, where we rejoined the Barra-
couta.

MOZAMBIQU E 1 87

CHAPTER X.

Mozambique.——Garrison and forts.—The city.—-Its population.
Portuguese jurisdiction. —The Governor’s house. —— Mrs.
Guest.—A mutiny.——Senhor Alvarez—Fraudulent practices.
—A wilful wreck—Angozha river.—Mohammedan tomb.—
Names of the Islands—The coast.—An adventure—Interior I
of the country.—- Europa Island—The Cockburn.— Lieu-
tenant Owen’s narrative. — The Sincapore.—~— The Orange
Grove.—Unexpected recovery.-——Meeting.of relations.

THE harbour of Mozambique is formed by a
deep inlet of the sea, five miles and a half broad,
and six long, receiving the waters of three in-
considerable rivers at its head. At the entrance
are three small islands, which, together with reefs
and shoals, render the anchorage perfectly safe in
the worst weather Of these islands, that of Mo—
zambique, on which stands the city, is formed of
coral, very low and narrow, and scarcely one mile
and a half in length. It is situated nearly in the
centre of the inlet, and just within the line of the
two points that form its extremities. The other
two islands, St. George to the northward, and St.
J ago to the southward, lie abreast of one another,

188 MOZAMBIQUE.

about fifteen hundred fathoms distant, and nearly
three miles outside that of Mozambique; they
are also of coral, surmounted by a rich mould,
covered with verdure and trees, but without in-
habitants. Vasco de Gama, in the prosecution of
his voyage round the Cape to the East Indies,
called at Mozambique, which he found in the
possession of the Arabs. On his arrival he was
welcomed with music ; but when it was discovered
that the emblem of his religion was the cross, and
not the crescent, distrust prevailed, and shortly
afterwards they commenced open hostilities; these
were, however, soon checked, and when reduced
to tolerable subjection by De Gama’s guns, they
supplied him with Whatever necessaries he re-
quired and a treacherous pilot for his further
voyage.

Mozambique was taken possession of not long
after, and its fort of St. Sebastian, which yet re-
mains a proud monument of ancient Portuguese
enterprise, was begun in 1508, and finished in
three years from its commencement. It is of a
quadrangular form, and mounts upwards of eighty
cannon, of various calibre, ages, and nations, some
brass, others iron, many honey-combed, and a few
in respectable condition; still it is a strong for-
tification, and capable of a formidable resistance.
In the interior are a chapel, the oldest in the place,
extensive barracks and quarters for the officers,
together with a prison, tanks, and storehouses.
In the centre is a flat and extensive space, in which
a large body of forces might be exercised and .

GARRISON AND FORTS. 189

manoeuvred. The garrison at this time consisted
of about two hundred black soldiers, habited in the
Sepoy costume; a guard of these are always sta-
tioned at the outer entrance of the fort, and as
soon as any one, having answered the usual inter-
rogatories at the door, is permitted to enter, they
advance with bayonets fixed and surround him.
This ceremony at first strikes a stranger as very
uncourteous and disagreeable, but custom makes
it familiar, and he soon sees its necessity to guard
against treachery and surprise

'lhe1e are two other forts, one on a projecting
point, west of the islands, and another on a small
insulated lock off the southern extremity, to which,
at low water, it is joined by a coral flat, covered
with shells: there are also two semicircular bat-
teries with a few guns on each, and in front of
the governor’s palace some small pieces of artil-
1e1y. This palace IS an extensive stone building,
apparently of great age, with a flat leaden roof,
and a large square court in the centre. The
grand entrance is through an archway in this
court, whence the principal staircase, compOsed
of a double flight of stone steps meeting at the
top, ascends to the first story, and to the rooms
used for public purposes, which are both lofty
and large; at the entrance of the archway an
officer and guard are constantly on duty. Front-
ing the palace is a large unpaved square ; the cus-
tom-house, a fine building, forms one side of it,
and the main-guard another; while at the ex-
tremity is a long and commodious stone wharf,

s

190 THE CITY.

built on arches, stretching out from the shore al-
most to low-watermark, and afl‘ording at all times
an excellent landing for boats.

The streets in the city are narrow, although the
houses are generally lofty and well constructed,
but as the place itself is fast sinking into insig-

Anificance, so the finest of its buildings are falling
-: rapidly into decay. Mozambique, like many

other cities of the world, is now reduced from its
ancient wealth and vice~regal splendour to the
almost forgotten seat of desolation and poverty.
It is still a bishop’s see, subordinate to Goa, but
the churches, like the rest of its edifices, denote
the decline of power and grandeur. With the
place devoted to religion has ceased the prin-
ciple itself; and even superstition can hardly now
be said to exist, every feeling being lost in the
love of gain, to which the inhabitants sacrifice
every other consideration.

The city takes up about one half of the island,
the remainder being divided into two parts, one
devoid of buildings, save ruins, and the other the
residence of the free coloured people, whose small
bamboo huts, placed in the most irregular order,
form a striking contrast to the lofty stone build—
ings of the Portuguese and their well-defined line
of streets. In the city are two pretty markets,
where. vegetables and grain can be procured
throughout the day; but, as the sun is intensely
hot, those articles that are liable to spoil, such as
fish, meat,iand milk, can only be obtained early
in the morning, except in the Black Town, which

ITS POPULATION. 19]

appears to be the grand mart for all the neces-
saries of life on a minor scale. Bullocks are
scarce and dear, but they have abundance of goats
and pigs, the latter generally black and of a lean
appearance, occasioned by the uncommon length
of their legs and heads; they are excessively fero-
cious, and in many instances desperately attack
those persons who are desirous of indulging
in sucking-pig at the expense of maternal affec-
tion.

In 1769 the Arabs, who formed a part of the
population of Mozambique, were expelled frOm
that city, from Sofala, and the settlements on the
River Zambizi, and even now are not permitted
to appear armed.

The population at this time amounted to
about six thousand, divided into five classes; the
first of which was very limited, consisting of
native Portuguese; the second of Canareens, an
appellation given to the Creole Portuguese of
Goa and their other Indian settlements; Ban-
yans from India formed the third, free coloured
people the fourth, and the resident slaves, the
' most numerous of all, the last. The commerce of
Mozambique has much decreased, and at present
it is little more than a mart for slaves, together
with a small quantity of ivory, gold dust, and
a few articles of minor value. The northern
shore of the main, opposite Mozambique, or, as
it is termed, the Cabaceira side, is the only part
where the soil is cultivated for the maintenance
of the population, the Arabs supplying the rest;

Q

192 PORTUGUESE JURISDICTION.

but were they to fail, a. famine would be inevit-
able. Even at Mozambique the Portuguese ju-
risdiction and settlements do not extend ten miles
in any direction, and to the southward not at all.
The natives, who are termed Makwomas and Ma-
jowjes, form an insurmountable barrier; they will

'trade with them, but have a great objection to

‘ their entering the country, which often leads to

wars, that only in the end impress more strongly
on the minds of the Portuguese the determina-
tion of their neighbours to support themselves in
their native territorial possessions.

The Governor is selected every three years,
and his salary is so small that he can barely sup-
port the appearance which his situation requires ;
consequently he enters into mercantile specula-
tions, his authority supplants that of the regular
trader, and a general stagnation is the result: for
the demands of one person who has power, but no
capital, must utterly subdue the energies of him
who has the latter only, as he commands the
market and is dealt with from necessity. The
Governor, and in fact all the native Portuguese,
whilst at Mozambique, consider gain as their
only object; to improve or even repair the place
never enters their thoughts. To marry in the
country might be the means of adding to its
prosperity; but the Government, by a false po—
licy, have enacted that all who do so must remain
there for life: the reason for this might appa-
rently have been good, but experience has proved
it otherwise. Necessity and inclination never can

THE L.OV ERNORS IIoUSE. 193

agiee, and at this place both sexes prefer entering
into a state unblest by the moral tie of matri-
mony to being compelled to remain in exile from
their native country, on a distant and unhealthy
soil.

Notwithstanding the insular situation of Mo‘:
zambique, it is at all times very prejudicial to the
health of Europeans. The only remedy employifl
by the natives is bark, but bleeding is never re-
sorted to. On the Cabaccira side the Governor
has a country house, the situation of which is pic-
turesque, the building itself neat, and the gardens,
although neglected and overrun with weeds, are
from their arrangement and situation worthy of
notice. As there are no beasts of burden at Mo-
zambique, all the work is done by slaves, who,
however, lead a very idle life on account of the
general stagnation of trade. During the heat of
the day, the higher classes, and some even at
other times, never appear out of doors except in
their hammocks, wherein, stretched at full length,
they may be seen lolling in all the listless languor
of tropical indolence.

The Governor proved a most kind—hearted and
hospitable man; he kept open house for all our
officers, the captain and one or two others dining
with him almost every day, while the roof of his
palace was made our observatory.

\Ve purchased some excellent port wine for
our convalescents; but one of our women died.
She came out in the Barracouta, was the wife of
one of the seamen, had recovered from the fever,

VOL. I. U

194 MRS. GUEST.

but apparently sank under the debility produced
by the mercurial remedies. \Ve buried her in the
cocoa-nut grove of Cabaceira: her husband after-
wards fell a victim to the fever at Sierra Leone
in 1826.

We found a lady here from the Cape of Good
Hope; she had visited Mozambique to see her
sister, who was married to a merchant of some
consideration, named Manuel Pedro d’Ameyda.
Mrs. Guest, the lady in question, was the wife
of one of the Cape dock-yard clerks, reduced at.
the peace; she had brought two daughters with
her, one about thirteen, the other eleven; and, as
there was no direct communication between Mo-
zambique and the Cape, she obtained a passage
for herself to rejoin her husband; leaving be-
hind the children, whose story will be noticed in
a future part of this narrative as indicative of the
colonial and perhaps national character of the Por—
tuguese.

On the 7th, the Barracouta sailed to the south-
ward, and a tremendous gale the following night
gave us great apprehensions for her safety, which,
it afterwards appeared, we're not without founda—
tion. A man, named John Dennis, deserted from
the last boat that went on shore previously to our
sailing; and, as he had attempted to do so when—
ever we landed, Captain Owen would not wait to
recover him, but sent a description of him to
the Governor, who promised that he should be
secured. I

The Andron’iache, with the pendant of Commo-

A MUTINY. 19.5

dore Nourse, had been at this place about six
weeks before us, when a mutiny arose in the gar-
rison, occasioned by the fashionable revolutionary
spirit of some of the officers of rank, who expected
to profit by the confusion. It broke out whilst
the worthy Governor, Jose Manuel de Sylva, was
dining on board the Andromache with some of
his staff. Upon landing at night he found the
town in the utmost confusion and in the hands
of the mutineers, who were firing indiscriminately
at the inhabitants who appeared in the streets.
The aid-de-camp, Senhor J ulien, since Governor
of Damaun in India, was dispatched to beg some
assistance of the commodore to recover his lost
authority, in virtue of the ancient alliance and
friendship between our sovereigns. The commo-
dore declined interfering in the political questions
of the colony, but offered a guard to secure the
lives and persons of the Governor and inhabitants
from murder or outrage. Accordingly, at nine
in the evening, a party of marines were dispatched
under command of Captain Bennet of the Cyg-
net, which vessel was in company with the An-
dromache; the band accompanied the party in
another boat, and, in passing the fort, Captain
Bennet ordered the trumpeters to sound a charge:
no sooner was this heard by the mutinous troops
than they laid down their arms and saved them-
selves as they could. The guard then landed at
the palace, and order was fully restored in less
than two hours. '
Nothing apparently could exceed the gratitude
u 2

196 ssNuoa ALVAREZ.

of all the loyal classes to the commodore and his
officers. In the name of their sovereign they
promised decorations to each, and were no doubt
sincere at the moment. J ulien was dispatched to
Lisbon with an account of the afl'air, and to solicit
the promised rewards for their protectors ; but we
never could learn that any further notice was
taken of the transaction.

\Ve here met with a large slave-ship, command-
ed by Senhor Alvarez. This man had served the
greater part of his life in the country trade of
India, and had been under Captain Owen’s orders
at the reduction of Mauritius. \Ve found him of
great service, as he was possessed of much local
information. He had been so long amongst the
English that he affected all their hatred of the
slave-trade, and said he took this voyage from
necessity, but would never attempt another for
the same purpose. But humanity would rather
recommend such a man for so objectionable a
service, as from serving in our transports he had
learned to take care of those entrusted to him,
and generally saved about four—fifths of his mi—
serable cargo to land at Rio; the calculated
average of mortality during the passage being half
the original number. To bring one-third to mar-
ket is considered a profitable voyage.

During our stay at this place the Captain bor—
rowed a Portuguese memoir on the Rios de
Senna; and many more might have been pro—
cured, whilst the feelings of the Governor were
so warm towards our nation, but time would

BRA UDULENT PRACTICES. 197

not permit Captain Owen to examine their dusty
archives.

It was, however, arranged with the Governor
that an expedition should proceed the following
July up the River Zambizi from Quilimane, and
that it should be composed of two British and
two Portuguese oflicers.

Accordingly, Mr. Charles William Browne and
Mr. Forbes, the botanist, were introduced to the
Governor for this undertaking, who, on the part
of his Government, appointed Captain Schmid von
Balliker to accompany them; he was an officer
who had served in De Meuron’s regiment in our
service, and had since disposed of his half-pay.

The coast immediately to the southward of
Mozambique is always considered particularly
dangerous, and many Portuguese and other ships
are annually lost about Magnicale. An English
vessel, the Matilda, of Calcutta, had a short time
back been wrecked on the bank of St. Antonio
in the open day, but there is much reason to
believe intentionally, to answer the ends of her
owners, by whom she had been over-insured.
This is not the only instance of the kind which it
is our painful duty to record as coming under
our own observation or inquiry: and it is to be
regretted that the legislature cannot make some
enactment by which such impositions might be
punished or at least defeated. An accurate hy-
drographical knowledge appears the most ready
means of obtaining this end, and if a Board of per-
sons possessing this knowledge were appointed to

198 A w lLl’U 1.. WRECK.

examine strictly all the survivors of a shipwreck,
under-writers would doubtless save thousands an-
nually. In the case of the Matilda, which had pre-
viously made a barefaced attempt to be wrecked
within the port of Mozambique, from which she
was saved, in spite of her officers, by timely but
unexpected assistance, no such Board would have
allowed payment of the insurance, as the loss
must have arisen from wilful or culpable neglect.
The bank upon which she was lost is a patch of
coral, crowned with dry sand, just covered at the
highest spring tides ; she was laid comfortably on
the inside of this bank, where the least danger was
likely to attend the crew. They began to unload
the cargo and place it on the sand, but after
three days they all set off in two boats for Mo-
zambique, a distance of about seventy miles to
the northward.

The current here sets always to the southward,
and is sometimes extremely rapid near the shores
and edges of the coral banks ; this apparently had
not entered into their calculations, as they were
obliged to land on the coast for water, where they
were attacked by the natives, when some of them
were killed, and the rest with difficulty escaped.

The son of the owner, (said to be an agent for
Lloyd’s,) was on board, but the fatigues and pri-
vations to which they had been unexpectedly ex-
posed in this adventure cost him and all the
officers their lives upon their arrival at Mozam-
bique. A few lascars got round to Foule Point
in a French slaver. walked to Point L’Aree, and

ANUUZIIA RIVER. 199

then came over to St. Mary’s in a small French
schooner, at which place we found them nearly
starved, and received them on board for a passage
to the Cape. As related, before we arrived half of
them had died, and the remainder were delivered
to the agent of the East Company, to be sent
to Bengal. The wreck and cargo were carried off
by the natives in their canoes and in small Arab
traders.

But to return to our own operations: having
left Mozambique on the 8th of February, we
coasted along shore, and at night anchored near
the shoals of Magnicale, which being always co-
vered are consequently dangerous; and a large Por-
tuguese ship, with a considerable sum of money
on board, had been wrecked upon them some
months before our arrival.

‘Ve next stood in for the land, within the bank
of St. Antonio; but, finding the water shoal very
suddenly, we coasted the outer edge of its coral
reef, and then anchored in Angozha Road, be;
tween the entrance of that river and Mafamede
Island. ~

VVe saw a small schooner in the River An-
gozha, where much traffic is carried on by the
Arabs, which the Portuguese term contraband,
though the country is subject to independent
Regulos, and no Portuguese dare approach it.
The bar has not above five or six feet at high
water, but much more in the rainy season, and
in the hands of industrious people and a good
Government might be made always navigable for

200 MOHAMMEDAN TOMB.

large vessels. The country is said to be one of
the most fertile in the world, as its appearance
indicates.

Mafamede is, like Antonio, only a crown of sand
on a coral reef, and is nowhere more than seven
or eight feet above the sea, yet it is clothed with
a grove of the most stately and superb casuarina
trees, some measuring about ten feet in circum-
ference, and most of them as straight as the
common fir, without a branch for thirty or forty
feet above the ground. This beautiful grove may
be seen from aloft at the distance of five or six
leagues, many of the trees being one hundred and
fifty feet high.

We found a Mohammedan tomb in good pre-
servation, upon which were inscribed some verses
from the Koran. It is dedicated to A?) at»
Sheik Zide, and is Visited by most of the Arab
navigators upon this coast. On the shores were
back-bones of turtle and one hut, but the whole
sand-bank is hardly a mile, and the entire coral
reef not more than five miles, in circumference.

All these coral banks and islands abound with
fish and turtle, as well as with the most beau-
tiful varieties of shells and corallines, none of
which we had time to collect, for at seven o’clock
the following morning a breeze sprang up from
the northward, when we recalled our boats and
proceeded to survey the reefs and islands. The
description of -Mafamede will suffice for all these,
excepting that some are not yet sufficiently grown
to be croxvned with sand. A slight mention

ANGOZIIA ISLANDS. 201

of their names and characters may perhaps be
desirable.

St. Anthony, a dry sand mostly uncovered;
Mafamede, a sandy island, well wooded; Mat—
thew Island, VValker Reef, Barrow Island, and
Caldeira Island, the two latter wooded like Ma-
famede, are denominated the Angora, or An gozha
Islands; Hurd Island, the highest, sand with
a little verdure, but no trees; Spot Reef, Raza,
or Level Island, called by us Epidendrae Island,
Casuarina Island, the Crown Sand, Fogo Island,
South Sand, or de Sylvas, and David Bank, men-
tioned by Mr. Inverarity, and in the journal of
the Sincapore brig, which afterwards came into
our possession; the situation of which was fixed
by the Leven in this voyage, and by the Alba-
tross the September following. \Ve navigated be-
tween these coral islands and the main, and on the
13th saw the Barracouta near Cape Croker, some
distance ahead. VVe anchored during a furious
tornado off Raza, where the botanist made a rich
harvest. On the following day the- Barracouta
joined us, when we compared our surveys and
chronometers.

As the proceedings of our consort are necessary
to complete our narrative, it is the intention of
the writer to refer in future to the excellent
journal of Lieutenant Boteler, without any fur-
ther introduction.

“ On the morning of the 7th of February we
left the Leven at Mozambique, and sailed to the

202 THE COAST.

southward, surveying along shore. As the depth
had decreased rather suddenly, we anchored, and
sent the boats to ascertain our situation, when
it was discovered that we had brought-to in a
very unsafe place; a coral reef extending all
round, excepting just where we had entered.
The wind was blowing strong and directly in.
The next day it increased, and the sea broke
furiously over us; it therefore became necessary
to search for some channel through which we
might escape from our disagreeable situation.
Fortunately a small opening was discovered, but
so narrow and intricate that it required great care
to save the ship; we however succeeded, yet not
without striking once in threading a labyrinth of
sharp and pointed rocks, but fortunately without
sustaining any injury.

“ From lVIozarnbique to Bazaruta Islands, the
coast is bOunded by a bank from twelve to fifteen
feet in height, covered with bushes, through
which, in various parts, the sandy formation is,
visible. Trees are scarce, and grow principally on
the water’s edge. The rivers are innumerable, but
few are of any importance, some ejecting a muddy
deposit, which discolours the sea for six or seven
miles, bringing with it drift-timber and floating
islets, on which water-fowl of various species
were frequently observed at roost. The boun—
dary of the river water Was perfectly defined, and
its light green, colour afforded a remarkable con-
trast to the deep blue of the surrounding ocean.
So great is the rush of the floods from the various

AN ADVENTURE. 203

mouths of the River Zambizi, that even four miles
from the land the water is perfectly fresh.

“ One evening, when at anchor of the coast,
a little to the northward of Sofala, a number of
large bucks were observed gamboling amongst
thelovrsandy'lnHocksthatsknted thesea. {Fhe
following morning we formed a party for the
purpose of shootng some, but without success;
for altlmugh the country had no appearance of
being inhabited, yet they were shy in the extreme,
and bounded off with great velocity the instant
they perceived us approaching. They were large
as mules, had very long and slender legs, their
heads bearing a great resemblance to that of a calf.
Mr. Fisher (midshipman) commanded one boat on
this excursion, and seeing several hippopotami
grazing on the plain at a distance, his party were
n1 hopes of shoothn; one,zuni three of then]
repaired to a thicket, at a little distance, on one
side of which they seated themselves in silence to
wait for a shot. In a short time one was seen
passing near them, upon which all three rose and
presented their pieces, when Fisher passed the
word, ‘ Are you ready ? stand by, my boys, and
let’s all fire together,’ &c. They were surprised
by a most tremendous and hideous noise within
two feet of their heads; the instantaneous effect
was like electricity; they all dropped their mus—
kets, and smwe (lui peat ran off to the boat, where,
taking breath and comparing notes, the cause of
their discomfiture was found to be that an hippo-
potamus was reposing in the very thicket which

204 i INTERIOR or Tm: cous'rav.

they had chosen for their ambush, who, disturbed
by the foregoing address, arose, and in his fear bel-
lowed forth as described, he escaping one way, and
our party another. They walked back, and reco-
vered their muskets, but kept the adventure a pro-
found secret for some time, as not too creditable.
“ From the summit of one of the loftiest sand-
hills, I obtained a view of the interior of the
country, which had the appearance of a bean?
tiful plain, spotted with clumps of trees, on
small elevated mounds. But descending, I dis-
covered that it was nothing more than an exten-
sive morass, emitting a very disagreeable and nox-
ious vapour. It was of considerable depth, and
certainly impassable, being covered with glass
nearly six feet above the water; this marsh was
sepaiated from the line of sand-hills by a narrow
stripe of dry land, covered with jungle, and im-
printed with the tracks of elephants, hippopotami,
bucks, lions, and tigers; and it being very early,
the impression where the animals had reposed
amongst the thickets was yet perfect, and the
scent as strong as that which is sensibly perceived
on entering a menagerie. We scarcely saw the
Bazaruta Islands, for as the monsoon was begin—
ning to change, we were oblig,ed when of Sofala,
to make the most direct course for Delagoa Bay.”

Having again parted from the Barracouta, we
stood directly for the Bassas da India, called by
some modern navigators, Europa Rocks ; but their
true situation was so inaccurately laid down, that

 

EUROPA ISLAND. 205

we should not have succeeded in finding them
had it not been for the various authorities quoted
by Mr. Horsburgh, who notes particularly their
meridian distance from Mayetta, taken by Captain
Rush of the Royal Charlotte East Indiaman.
We then stood towards the island miscalled by
modern navigators Bassas da India, Bassas da
Judia, &c.; but which is evidently a distinct
place from the 1eef so named by the Portuguese,
and which we had quitted the day bef01e: so, as
the fi1st notice we had of this island was from the
Europa, we named it after her. It. is not impos-
sible that this may be the Juan de Lisboa, which
has for more than half a century been sought
in vain bv navigato1s. ‘

Having su1veyed Europa Island, we made the
shore of Buok, and then continued to the south-
ward, on the 20th anchoring on the edge of a
bank, with Cape Bazaruta about five miles to the
westward: this we did merely to determine the
geographical position of that Cape which is one
of the most remarkable features on'the Coast of
Afiica, and a c01111te1pa1t of Cape Inyack.

This‘is the site of the famous pearl fishery
of Sofala, and hence thosetjewels ale supposed
to have been carried up the Red Sea, togethel
with the gold of Ophir in the days of Solomon,
and probably s’ome generations before that period.

Cape Bazaruta has sometimes been called St.
Sebastian, while a variety of other situations have
been assigned to a Cape of that name; it is there-

206 THE (JOCKBURN.

fore omitted in our charts to avoid confounding it
with another Cape St. Sebastian, on the island of
Madagascar: the same reason induced us to give
the native name Inyack to the Cape of Delagoa
Bay, usually called St. Mary.

We continued surveying towards Delagoa, and
during the night of the 28th passed Cutfield
Shoals. On the ]st of March, the day on which
Captain Owen had promised to return, we an-
chored in English River, and found the Cock-
burn, the Orange Grove of the Cape of Good
Hope, and a brig under Mozambique colours,
which we soon learned was the Sincapore of Cal—
cutta. -

We were at first surprised at the Cockburn not
sending a boat, or in any way noticing our arrival ;
but our surprise was soon turned to fearful
anxiety, when, by the assistance of glasses, we
could not perceive a soul on board. A look of
horror passed from one to the other as all ex-
pressed their (lifferent surmises. But not a mo-
ment was lost: the anchor was no sooner down
than a boat was sent in charge of Mr. Williams to
solve the mystery. After a short absence he
returned, and as he came along-side held up his
hands with a look of despair that too surely
indicated the dreadful catastrophe he had to un-
fold. But it would be unjust to tell this tale
in any other language than that in which it
is written. The following interesting but me-
lancholy narrative of Lieutenant, now Captain,

LIEUTENANT OWEN’S NARRATIVE. 207

Richard Owen shall therefore relate the sorrows
and sufferings they had endured.

“ When the Leven left us, the corpse of Captain
Cutfield was lying on deck, and many others on
board both vessels were in the last stage of exist~
ence; it need therefore scarcely be observed that
their separation was viewed by all with a marked
anxiety and apprehension that we were parting
with many for the last time. Before quitting the
factory, Captain Owen had been informed that it
was the practice of the Portuguese garrison to put
black soldiers on board such British merchant
vessels as entered English River, to prevent their
trading with the natives. As this practice could
by no means be reconciled with the commandant’s
express declaration (when asked for protection for
our surveying parties) ‘ that he had not any con-
trol over the inhabitants of the surrounding
country,’ Captain Owen considered such a proceed-
ing derogatory to the honour of his Majesty’s flag
and the interests of his subjects. He protested
strongly against such an indignity being again
offered to any British vessel, as they had an un-
doubted right to trade with the natives of any
independent country. He therefore declared that
he should feel it his duty to prevent such an
unjust and unwarrantable proceeding on any
future occasion where he was present, and desired
that the practice might be discontinued, leaving
orders with us, in case of any English vessel com-
ing in during our stay to prevent its continuance,

208 THE SINGAPORE.

and to report these our instructions to the com-
mandant.

“ As soon, therefore, as the Leven and Barra-
couta had got under weigh, we ran into English
River and communicated the above orders, when
it was arranged, that so long as men-of-war were
in the bay it should be discontinued, until the
point should be determined between the two Go-
vernments, to whom representations were made
on both sides.

“ Our orders were to complete the survey of
the great bay and of the river Mapoota, but if
the fever should appear on board to proceed im-
mediately to sea, and examine whether the St.
Lucia river was at all practicable for any kind of
vessels.

“ We quitted English River on the 8th of De-
cember, when we perceived a small brig under
British colours about to enter; we accordingly ran
across to Port Melville, between Elephant and
Inyack Islands, to measure the meridian distance;
and on the 11th returned, in order to observe the
conduct of the Portuguese garrison to this vessel.
We found her to be the Sincapore of Calcutta,
about seventy tons burden, commanded by a
Mr. Retchie, last from Mozambique, having on
board Senhor Lupe de Cardenos, who had char-
tered her on certain conditions to bring him to
this place as governor, commandant, and fac-
tor. I showed the new man in authority my
orders relative to securing the British flag from

THE ()RANG E GROVE. 209

insult, when Senhor Lupe assured him that the
practice should be discontinued. This Governor
and his wife were both creoles of Mozambique:
he had agreed to pay Mr. Retchie his freight of
eleven hundred Spanish dollars in ivory at a cer-
tain price, but as this ivory could not immediately
be procured, he gave him a licence to traffic with
the natives whilst he was collecting it. Finding
that the commandant had no disposition to inter-
fere with the Sincapore, and that he was the
intimate friend and associate of Retchie, the mas-
ter, we quitted the river and returned to Port
hIelville, where we anchored on the 16th.

“ A few days afterwards, the Orange Grove, of
Cape Town, but now from Mozambique, came
into this harbour; she was a small schooner of
eighty tons, belonging to Mr. Henry Nourse, a
merchant, and brother to Commodore Nourse.
This enterprising gentleman had determined, it
appears, to examine every part of the coast, to
discover if any rational or profitable market could
be opened for British commerce and manufacture.
The supercargoes on board were Messrs. DIaynard
(nephew to Commodore Nourse) and Thompson-
The Sincapore also came over from English River
to trade with Inyack; but this traffic produced
to neither vessel more than a small quantity of
ambergris and a few hippopotamus-tusks.

“ Learning our intention to proceed up the Ma-
poota River, both the commanders of these vessels
considered it as a favourable opportunity for

VOL. I. P

210 UNEXPECTED RECOVERY.

trying the trade, and being at the same time
protected against the treachery of the natives.

“ Unfortunately both the supercargoes of the
Orange Grove had a violent attack of the pre-
vailing fever, the germ of which it was supposed
they had brought from Mozambique. This was
the only drawback to spending our first Christmas
from England with the conviviality usual to that
season. Mr. Maynard was brought into my own
cabin for better accommodation and medical at-
tendance. But, in spite of every attention and
care, he was fast sinking, and not a hope enter-
tained of his recovery; nay, preparations were ac-
tually making for his funeral, when the An—
dromache, commanded by his uncle, was seen on
the outer bar. This information was immediately
conveyed to the dying man ——the effect was almost
instantaneous, and the power of the mental over
the physical system was strikingly perceptible;
the spirit appeared newly lit; the languid eye was
succeeded by a sparkling ray of life, imparting
hope to all who saw this sudden change, and,
strange as it may appear, this exciting cause pro-
duced such new energy, that the effect, in a short
time, was a perfect restoration to life and health.

“ Upon entering the harbour, the Andro—
mache appeared in rather a dangerous situation,
having got very near the shoals of Elephant
Island, and the wind blowing rather fresh. I
instantly took the small boat, and, rowing across
the reef, reached her at sunset and brought her
into Port Melville, where she was anchored in

MEETING OF RELATIVES. 211

safety, and the Commodore’s nephew removed on
board. The Andromache had in company with
her two brigs, the Cygnet of ten guns, and the
Wizard, a colonial vessel, commanded by Lieu-
tenant Maynard, brother to the young merchant
whose race was so nearly run. The meeting of
these relatives, under such circumstances, must
have called forth new and delightful sensations
of affection and gratitude to the Author of all
good, who had thus timely interfered to save the
life of one so dear to them.

“ The day after the arrival of these vessels
it blew a most terrific gale, that drove them all
from their anchors; and such was the violence
of this tempest that it almost laid the Andro-
mache on her beam-ends, while the Sincapore was
only brought up when in the foaming surf on
Elephant Island.

“ By this gale the boats in the water at the time
were either totally destroyed or materially da-
maged. During our short stay at this place two
of the crew died, but as they were the only people
on board who at that time had any symptoms of
illness, no suspicion existed of the sudden mor-
tality that awaited us, particularly as the boat’s
crew of natives were always employed to do such
work as would have exposed our own people
to the effects of the climate.

212 NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

CHAPTER XI.

Lieutenant Owen’s narrative continued. ' —Shores of the Ma-
poota.—Embassy to Makasany.—Interview with him.—His
reply.—Hospitality—Mode of barter.

 

Exploring party.—
Terrific conflagration.—The fatal disorder.—Musquit0es.—
Ravages of the fever.—Lieutenant’s Owen’s illness—Mr.
Tudor, and Cooper.—Fatal result.

“ ON the 1st of January 1823, the Andromache
and her consorts left Dclagoa Bay, and immediate-
ly afterwards we sailed from Port Melville for the
River Mapoota, taking the channel down the
western shores of the Peninsula and Island of
Inyack.

“ We were detained a week surveying the flats
at the mouth of the river, before entering, when
we commenced our ascent.

“For the first twelve miles the banks of the
Mapoota are formed of a low alluvial soil, shallow,
and lined with forests of mangroves: the country
then becomes more open. Although the river
is everywhere narrow, and its navigable chan—
nels still more so, yet we were enabled to beat up

SHORES or THE MAPOOTA. 213

against a strong wind by the assistance of the
flood-tide. During this operation both shores
of the river were covered with naked natives, in
general armed with assagayes, and demonstrating
by various sounds and antics their joy and as-
tonislnnent ; for without doubt none of this gene-
ration‘* had ever before witnessed such a spectacle.
“Our first communication with these people
was at a village about seven leagues up the river ;
it was some time before they could be prevailed
upon to trust their valuable persons on board;
but, after all our eloquence had proved unsuc—
cessful, curiosity prevailed over fear. Upon
being shown the wonders of the vessel, they ex-
pressed much more astonishment than usual
amongst savages. Some of our companions re~
collected the first visit of several North Ame—
rican Indians to the first-rate ship of war built on
the lakes of Canada, who never expressed the
slightest degree of surprise or wonder at what
they saw, resolving it all into an operation of the
devil. These savages, on the contrary, examined
and felt every thing, and the kind reception
they met with induced their countrymen soon to
banish both fear and reserve, much to the in-
convenience of our officers and crew, who were
sadly tormented by their numbers and curiosity.
“ One of these beauties was presented with a
looking—glass in order that he might contemplate
his villainous countenance, or, as Jack rather pro-

5‘ Nor any other: these were the first vessels ever known to
have entered the Mapoota.

214 EMBASSY TO MAKASANY.

fanely termed it, his “ ugly mug.” This reflected
ugliness seemed however, to have such charms for
the native, that we began to be alarmed lest he
should undergo the fate of Narcissus; he re-
mained for a considerable time totally lost in ad-
miration of his own image; and absolutely making
the most hideous and ridiculous faces, merely for
the pleasure of seeing them reflected: this being
his only amusement or occupation during the
Whole time of his visit.

“ The Orange Grove and Sincapore did not
arrive until several days after us, when I dis-
patched an embassy to Makasany, King of the
territory of Mapoota. This royal personage was
a cousin of Mayetta’s; the high families of this
country being quite as jealous of their pedigree
as those of the most civilized nations, so that
it is quite impossible for a native of low birth to
acquire even the rank of chief:

“Messrs. Hood and Tudor, of the Cockburn,
Mr. Retchie, Master of the Sincapore, and Mr.
Thompson, Supercargo of the Orange Grove, two
armed seamen, and English Bill, as interpreter,
formed the embassy ; they took as a present a small
quantity of leaf tobacco, some dungaree, or
coarse blue cotton, and two bottles of rum. They
were also accompanied by one of Makasany’s Se-
crctaries, who levied contributions of water—me-
lons, pemba,* and fruits, for the use of the party,
at several villages which they passed through.
After a most fatiguing march of nearly sixteen

‘7" Beer made from millet.

INTERVIEW WITH HIM. 215

miles, they saw the King’s residence, and fired
some muskets to announce their approach, the
Secretary and English Bill being masters of the
ceremonies.

“ On their arrival at the village, which consisted
of several huts, built in a semicircle, enclos-
ing a considerable space, King Makasany was
found seated on a mat in the middle of the
area, surrounded by several of his chiefs, likewise
seated on their heels, and numbers of the common
people of both sexes, all in the same posture.
His majesty appeared about sixty years of age,
very tall and stout, with a pleasing yet dignified
countenance ; from habit or intention he was long
in answering any questions, as if giving them
much deliberation and judgment.

“ Mats being spread for the officers of the em-
bassy, Mr. Hood imformed Makasany “that one
of King George’s little ships was come into his
river; that it was sent to ask after his health, and
look at his river and his country; that King
George’s own ships did never trade, that being done
by those belonging to his people, who paid him
moderate custom.” Two of these ships, Mr.
Hood said, were then in the river, and if the
King was disposed to trade with them, and would
allow his people to do the same, he might be as-
sured of their good faith and conduct. Messrs.
Retchie and Thomson were then introduced as
the merchants, who informed the King that they
had brought beads, brass rings, and cloth, to ex-
change for ivory and ambergris.

216 ms REPLY.

“ Makasany replied that he had been sick a very
long time, but on hearing the good news that
one of King George's ships had come up his
river, it made him quite well immediately; that
he had received a message from the Portuguese
factory, representing the English as an insig-
nificant people, who lived only in ships by rob-
bing countries too weak to oppose them, &c.
but he did not believe them, and should al-
ways be happy to see English ships in his river to
trade with him and his people. Then, having a
wine-glass presented to him, he gave a glass of
rum to each of the embassy, took one himselffi“
and distributed the remainder of the two bottles
among his wives, several of whom were in at-
tendance and many more absent.

“ In front of thc huts was a large tree used for
their meetings and bazaars. This tree is here
called Foomgo_ora, and produces a fruit larger
than a melon; this is used to clean metals,
but not for food. It is the Didynamia angio-
spermz'a, the flowers of which are spreading and
elegant.

When this interview was ended, the party were
conducted to another village, about a quarter of
a mile from the first, belonging to one of Ma-
kasany’s wives, whose hut was prepared for their
reception. Their good-natured landlady, who was

* It is a prevalent custom of the Negroes in Africa, for the
host or person who presents any liquor to drink the first
draught himself as a security (by no means unnecessary,)
against poison.

HOSPITALITY. 217

middle-aged and fat} sat up with them the whole
night; this example was followed by all the peo-
ple of the village, who gratified their curiosity by
the sight of white men, and asked a thousand
questions.

“ A goat was prepared for their supper, and in
the morning they were presented with a repast of
milk and cakes made of millet. This was much
more sumptuous feeding than our parties gene-
rally met with on such excursions, but the country
was at peace with the Zoolos, and had not been
lately ravaged.

“ After breakfast they were again summoned to
attend the King, who was seated under the same
tree with his chiefs, when, having again assured
Mr. Hood of his delight at seeing English vessels
in his country, he said that he was at liberty to go
where he liked in it, and that he would gladly
trade with the merchants. Mr. Hood and his
party therefore commenced their return to the
vessel, leaving Messrs. Retchie and Thompson,
with English Bill as interpreter.

“ Upon their return, Messrs. Hood and Tudor
occupied themselves in finding stations for the
survey of the river, but could meet with none
sufficiently commanding for the purpose. They
were, however, amply repaid by the most enchant-
ing scenery along the whole course of the stream,
as far as they could trace it; which, by their de-

*’ In Negro Africa, beauty in females consists in sleek mag-
nitude, and in some parts the wives-elect of the chiefs are regu~
larly fattened for a whole year before the marriage-ceremony.

218 MODE or BARTER.

scription, surpassed all that we had hitherto na-
vigated. The View was everywhere terminated
by a range of lofty hills, about thirty miles to the
westward, beyond which to the natives every
thing was enveloped in fable and mystery.

“ On the 16th, we moved as high up as was con-
venient, and dispatched two boats, with ten days’
provisions, under Messrs. Hood and Tudor, to
follow the river to its source, which was imagined
not to be more than forty miles. Besides the of-
ficers, two'English seamen and four natives were
in each boat. Shortly after their departure, two
Kafl‘ers, whom we had embarked at the Cape of
Good Hope, deserted; one was found drowned
the next morning, and the other on shore, in
a neighbouring village. We afterwards learnt that
the language of these men was nearly the same
as that of the Zoolos, while that of Mapoota, was
a sort of mixed dialect between the language of
the Kaffers and that spoken about English River;
in short, they all appeared to have the same origin,
and were easily acquired'by the natives.

“ The merchants having made their arrangements
with Makasany, he allowed them huts in one of
his own villages, not far from their vessels, when
the trade commenced, but was carried on very
slowly, according to the custom of all savages.

“ The mode of bartering for elephants’ teeth is
as follows :—-they are brought to the place of ex-
change after they have been examined and some-
times weighed; the merchant puts down a cer-
tain quantity of blue calico or dungaree, beads,

MODE or BARTER. 219

brass collars, bracelets, anklets, &c. These are in-
variably refused in the first instance, and as the
King is the only merchant for teeth, so long as
he pleases, or has any to dispose of, there can be
no competition; and as he sells but one at a
time, the delays to which such a traffic is ex-
posed may be easily imagined. They have some-
times stood at the gate of the Portuguese factory
for fourteen days before the natives would con-
sent to part with them on the terms offered. To
their honour be it known, that, although the
goods of our merchants were left in an open hut
absolute within their power, yet they never lost
a single article; and it is but justice to the
African character to'record, that we never knew
one instance of dishonesty, excepting by such
persons as had been in the service of the Por-
tuguese.

“ The King, Makasany, was very fond of rum,
and drank it freely, but would never receive it
as an article of barter; observing most philoso-
phically, that although the pleasure arising from
drinking was certainly great, yet it was too tran-
sitory an exchange for real property. Many of
his chiefs and people were, however, not exactly
of his opinion, and would have parted with all.
they possessed for the pleasure of getting drunk
for a few hours. Makasany came from the tra-
ding village, which was near a mile from the
vessel, to the bank of the river, but could not be
persuaded to venture on board.

“ The exploring party in the boats ascended the

220 EXPLO RING PARTY.

stream of the Mapoota very slowly, as the
tides were not felt a few miles from the vessel,
and the current, being at this season much in-
creased by the freshes, became on the second day
so strong that it was with great difficulty they
made any progress; so that they were five days
ascending forty miles which occupied only one to
return. Their progress was, in addition, mate-
rially obstructed by hippopotami and alligators,
which were extremely numerous. One of the
former attacked Mr. Tudor’s boat and tore a piece
out of her gunwale. Numerous Wild geese were
seen daily, and the evening mess was often much
improved by their presence. On the fourth day
a young alligator was shot, and the flesh eaten
with much satisfaction by the party, who pro-
nounced it quite equal to turtle. They were so
much annoyed by mosquitoes, the howling of
wild beasts, and the grunting, bellowing, and
snorting of the hippopotami, that they got but
little rest after their daily labours. Their camps
were generally fixed on the right bank of the
river in the territories of Mapoota, where they
were frequently visited by the natives. ,

“ To make a place for their huts, they were in
the habit of setting fire to the long grass, which,
being dry, burnt readily to some distance; but the
last evening of their ascent, they were surprised and
rather alarmed at perceiving the flames extend to

a neighbouring forest.

“ Mr. Hood’s description may convey an idea of

this scene. He says, ‘the burning grass was ra-

TERRIFIC CONFLAGRATION. 221

pidly consumed, and we were about pitching our
tents as usual, when the flames suddenly spread
in the direction of the forest; another moment
and it was on fire; first the underwood, then the
branches, and lastly, the ponderous trunks, were
enveloped in one sheet of flame and smoke; the
noise was terrific, as the crackling embers fell to
the ground, while fiery sparks and brands were
spreading the devouring element in all directions.
The birds and numerous animals that had so long
inhabited this impenetrable solitude undisturbed,
were wildly screaming forth their terror, as, in
their efforts to escape, they fell suffocated by the
smoke into the consuming mass. VVe looked at
one another in silent wonder, not unmixed with
dread; the wild flame was let loose; it was
spreading with uncontrollable fury, and we ac—
tually shuddered as we gazed upon the destruction
we had made. The earth, the sky, and the water,
all seemed kindled into flame. Our little power
had produced this mighty work; but who could
stop it? VVe felt our insignificance; and knew
that only One could arrest its burning course, and
upon Him we inwardly called with wonder and
devotion. Such an event as this is of rare occur-
rence, and one that few men have seen and none
have been able to describe. It is almost too much
for the eye to contemplate; the feelings become
subdued by the terrific grandeur of the scene. It
was like a universal conflagration; all around
was fire ; red flames glowed from earth to heaven !
I cannot describe what I suffered, for it was a

222 THE FATAL DISORDER.

painful sensation thus to gaze directly on the
power of the Almighty. Both were his works ;
he had made the forest and the fine for the
benefit of his creatures; used with the wisdom
he has given them, they are their chief blessings,
but, thus thrown thoughtlessly and carelessly toge-
ther by impious man, they become a consuming
curse, devouring all in their burning wrath. VVe
had no opportunity of learning the extent of
this conflagration, as we were that night obliged
to pitch our tents on the opposite side of the
river.’

“ The day after this event, one of the seamen
was taken ill ; Mr. Hood immediately bled him co-
piously, and returned as speedily as possible to the
vessel. Up to this time all seemed most promis-
ing : neither the weather nor the country indicated
anything unhealthy, and the officers and crew
were generally as well as could be expected. But,
on the 22nd, l\Ir. Conolly, the assistant-surgeon,
was attacked with very violent symptoms of the
fever ; he bled himself profusely, and may be said
almost to have died on the third day with the
lancet in his arm. He was buried on the 26th
of January upon a small island in the river;
four of the seamen who attended him on shore
were seized immediately on their return with the
same fatal disorder; and by the time Mr. Hood
reached the vessel another of his party was taken
ill. We did not lose a moment in getting away,
and anchored on the 28th before the Portuguese
factory. This was not, it, is true, found a more

MUSQUITOES. 223

favourable situation by the Leven and Barra-
couta, and, in fact, Captain Owen had ordered
me to proceed to sea on the first indication of
the disorder, but before I could get out of the
river one-half of the crew was attacked, and the
surgeon being the first victim, I judged it advis-
able to go where I could get the earliest medical
assistance. Experience, however, justifies the
belief that it would have been more prudent to
have gone direct to sea, if sufficient hands had been '
left to work the vessel; for the Leven and Barra-
couta had not had one taken ill after quitting
the bay, and those only died whose cases were
previously considered hopeless.

“ It is usual to attribute this fever to the marsh
miasma, which possibly may not be without
foundation; but there was very little marshy
ground within several miles of the Cockburn.
The banks of the river were however wooded, and
twice a day the tide left a considerable portion of
mud exposed to the sun, the exhalations from
which were carried by the breeze in every direc-
tion. This cause may have produced the baneful
effect, but others certainly existed which served
very much to aggravate, if not to originate the
disease.

“ The musquitoes were so numerous on board,
and indeed everywhere, that it was absolutely
impossible to obtain any rest night or day. Their
incessant buzz and occasional attack were more
dreadful than can easily be imagined; it was irri-
tating, nay, almost maddening, and produced as

224 RAVAGES or TIIE FEVER.

much suffering to the mind as to the body. It
would hardly be believed that so insignificant an
insect could cause so much and such constant an-
noyance. A nest of hornets could not have been
more distressing, and nothing destroyed them but
what was equally destructive to their victims:
smoke, clothing, every thing was tried, but in
vain ; the poison of their bite sets the blood in a
ferment, and a single musquito would in many
subjects produce a fester accompanied with much
pain and fever.

“ To this cause may certainly be attributed
much of the mortality that attended this com-
plaint, but whether by originating or aggravating
the disease is a question not so easily determined.
In the course of our experience, the first attacked
with the fever were always those who had suf-
fered most from the mosquitoes. The carpenter’s
mate had his wife 011 board; both were taken ill.
In a paroxysm of frenzy he jumped overboard
and was never more seen: she died a few hours
afterwards.

"' The fever now began to make its ravages
amongst our officers and seamen : in three days I
was the only white person on board able to do
anything; and it is most astonishing to me how I
bore up so long, surrounded as I was by the‘dying
and the dead. Nothing but the merciful hand of
God could have supported me. The native blacks
had an almost unconquerable objection to the
vicinage of a corpse; so that when none of our
own people were able to move, I was under the

RAVAGES or TIIE FEVER. 225

necessity of threatening to shoot the natives in
our service, before they could be induced to take
the dead on shore.

“ Poor Joyce, the widow’s son, first died,
evidently from apprehension; he had not the
slightest indication of fever, but sank without
a struggle, regretted by every one to whom his
exceedingly gentle and amiable manners had en-
deared him. Next followed Mr. Hood, a young
officer of great promise; his disorder being quite
similar to that of Mr. Joyce. There now re-
mained only seven officers and men out of the
twenty who composed our original crew. I
waited on the Commandant, Miguel Lupe de
Cardenos, and asked permission to land the sick,
which was granted, with a promise of medical
assistance. It would gratify me to be able to
say that the Governor complied with my wishes
or with his own professions; but his motives were
afterwards too clearly developed to merit any such
acknowledgment on my part. All the invalids
were, however, taken on shore, leaving only Mr.
Tudor, John Cooper the black cook, and myself,
on board.”

On the 11th Lieutenant Owen was himself at-
tacked, and, while the fever remained, went 011
shore to the house of Lieutenant Antonio Teixera,
who attended him with the greatest kindness day
and night. Under these Circumstances it cannot
be imagined that any written account of passing
events was kept; the sequel, however, was, that

VOL. I. Q

226 LIEUTENANT OWEN’s ILLNESS.

Mr. Tudor and the cook became extremely ill, but,
with a noble devotedness to their duty, deter-
mined not to quit the vessel, in consequence of
the opinion they had formed of the new Com-
mandant; and, whilst lying on their beds in
hourly expectation of death, actually kept their
arms ready to resist any attack of the factory
men, (for it would be an unjust application of
the term to call them a garrison.) This spirit
alone, under God’s mercy, kept them alive. The
day after Lieutenant Owen’s attack he was so
unwell that but little hopes were entertained of
his recovery.

On the 1st of March, the day promised by Cap-
tain Owen, and looked for with so much anxiety
by our surviving comrades, the Leven arrived.
When Mr. Williams was sent on board the
Cockburn, as before-mentioned, we received upon
his return an early presage of the melancholy
tidings he had to communicate. Upon going
below he found Mr. Tudor and Cooper in bed,
labouring under the most dreadful debility it is
possible to conceive. Their feeble efforts to ex-
press the delight they felt at our arrival were dis-
tressing to those who witnessed them, and gave
but little hope of strength enough being left to
withstand the deadly disease under which they
were suffering. It had assumed in both the in-
termittent form, but its most violent attacks had
not been able to subdue the firmness of their
minds. There was a nobleness in the character

MR. TUDOR AND COOPER. 227’

and conduct of these individuals that calls for
higher praise than a mere relation of their suf-
ferings and situation. The opinion they had
formed of the Governor did credit to their dis-
cernment, (as the sequel proved.) They were
both attacked with the complaint which had
destroyed so many of their companions, they had
none to help or in any way attend to their wants,
but with mutual kindness they assisted each other
so long as they had the power to move. Still no-
thing could make them forget their duty, and even
in the expectation of immediate death they deter-
mined to defend, while life remained, that which
was committed to their charge. “Then unable
longer to support their enervated frames, their
situation must have been wretched in the extreme,
without a friendly hand to administer a drop of
water to their burning lips.

It is pleasing to record that they both lived,
and poor Cooper was afterwards discharged at
Sierra Leone, his native place, with about one
hundred pounds pay and prize-money in his
pocket. '

All our sick comrades were removed as soon
as possible on board the Leven, where, by care
and attention, they ultimately recovered, with the
exception of Mr. Henderson, who was, on our
arrival, too far gone for hope. He was the brother
of Captain “Villiam Henderson of the navy, and
a very valuable young officer. Hood’s commission
as a lieutenant was received shortly after, but alas .'

Q 2

228 FATAL RESULT.

poor fellow, he followed his brother* too soon
to learn either his loss or his promotion.

Such was the fatal result of the Cockburn ex-
pedition up the Mapoota, a tragedy not the less
to be deplored, because hitherto it had been al-
most the certain consequence of exploring African
rlvers.

* Mr. Hood’s brother was murdered during Captain Franklin’s
expedition to the Polar Sea, as related in that officer’s interest-
ing narrative.

THE GUN-ROOM STEWARD. 229

CHAPTER XI 1.

The gun-room steward—Effects of imagination.—Excuses for
shipwreck. —— Barlow's plate. — English Bill’s mimicry.—
Superstition. —- Natives at dinner.—A native culprit.—
Features of the country—A severe gale.-——Algoa Bay—A
mysterious Appearance—The Flying Dutchman.—Wreck
of the C0ckburn.——A Dutch Frigate wrecked.—Finishing our
Charts.—Bill at Cape Town.—Sale of a Gift.

DURING this voyage, the crew of the Leven and
Barracouta were perfectly re-established in health,
but frightful was the list of those who had fallen
beneath the deadly curse of Africa, amounting to
two-thirds of the officers and one-half of the crews
of the three vessels. One circumstance in par-
ticular occurred worthy of notice, as showing
how much the mind is concerned in this dreadful
malady.

The gun-room steward, named Malvaney, a very
steady and sober young man, had been ill on our
quitting the bay; his fever was of the low ner-
vous kind, to which so many had fallen victims;
as we cncreased our distance from Delagoa, he

230 EFFECTS OF IMAGINATION.

recovered his health and spirits, apparently, for-
getting and even ridiculing the fever, but, on re-
turning he again became desponding, and took
to his hammock with no discoverable disease but
low spirits. Upon our arrival, and hearing the
melancholy intelligence of the Cockburn, he be-
came gradually lower and lower, his pulse almost
imperceptibly failing until the 10th of March, the
day of the Barracouta’s arrival, when death put a
period to his existence. On the following morn-
ing he was buried by the side of or among his
ship-mates, on the sand-hill before the factory.

Upon looking over his effects there was found
a diary, in which he had noted attending the
corpse of William Roberts to the grave ; this was
the first seaman who died belonging to the Leven.
Part of this journal was interlined to remark that
when lowering the body of Roberts into the
grave he fell upon it, and doubtless from this
event imbibed some superstitious notion that he
was soon to follow, although he was a perfectly
quiet, sober man, and rather religious. By a
strange fatality he was buried, if not in the same
grave, certainly not many yards from that of
Roberts, as he himself had imagined he should
be. That imagination can do much to destroy
life is thus exemplified; and with grief it must
he confessed that many of our comrades died
from no other complaint.

During this voyage a weekly newspaper was
published on board the Leven by the officers, in
which there were some papers written by Mr.

EXCUSES FOR SIIIPWRECK. 231

Browne, that for elegance of expression have not
often been surpassed. The editor of this weekly
production was Mr. Owen Fisher, a most pro-
mising youth in every good qualification. Per-
haps the fond partiality of friendship may be ex—
cused recording one of his numerous jokes, which
served better than medicine to cheer the Spirits
of his companions.

It has long been the fashion to attribute every
shipwreck to some fault in time-keepers and
other instruments, but particularly to the de-
viation of the compass since its discovery by
Captain Flinders, and on which so many useful
experiments have been made during the polar
voyages. The Leven was fitted with plates on
Mr. Barlow’s plan for measuring the quantity of
this deviation, and the Leven’s quarter-deck, as
well as that of many others, was nailed with brass
instead of iron. Although it is manifest that, in
nine cases out of ten, shipwrecks arise from un—
pardonable ignorance or neglect, yet good has
resulted from the many assertions that “ the com-
pass was false,” “ the time-keepers wrong,” 850.
because enquiry has been directed to these instru-
ments; their nature and uses are better understood,
and the above-mentioned excuses will be ultimately
taken from future carelessness or stupidity. In
the course of these enquiries many minute calcula-
tions and formulae have appeared, which super-
ficial observers suppose to contain some latent
mystery, only attainable by the initiated, and that
the art of critical navigation is only to be acquired

232 BAnLow’s PLATE.

by the learned few. The aff'ectation of extreme
minutiw and of reasoning on new hypotheses to
account for all possible effects, and to make the
Royal Society a stepping-stone to the honours
and benefits of our service, has certainly produced
more injury by discouraging the unpresuming
man of real professional merit, than it has done
good by raising talent from obscurity. Young
Fisher had sense enough in the few years he had
lived in our service perfectly to understand the
nature of the game of humbug, as it is generally
termed, which it was his particular delight to
satirize.

\Vhenever midshipmen or lieutenants from
other ships came on board, he undertook to keep
up our character for science in the cockpit. All
the youngsters were seated by him at table over
books of abstruse science, and as the stranger
looked in he heard confused sounds of A, plus
B, minus the cube of X, divided by the square
of Y, is equal to the cube-root of Z, &c., by
which artifice some of the younger part of his
visiters were actually persuaded that the Captain
never suffered the ship to be worked by any but
algebraic rules.

One of his papers described these visiters going
round the ship until they came to Barlow’s plate;
this he describes as an instrument for detecting
whether men have drunk more than their allow-
ance of water, which, being kept in tanks, must
necessarily be impregnated with iron, and he most
gravely states that it has been found highly dan-

 

BARLOW’S PLATE. 233

gerous to trust a man at the helm who shall have
drunk more than his six pints; lie then goes on
to relate how this extraordinary property of tank-
water was discovered, in consequence of the cap-
tain of the hold having taken advantage of his
situation to rob one of the tanks of an extra-
gallon for his own private use, and unwit-
tingly, by coming to the helm, the compass was
found to deviate most unaccountably. The cir-
cumstance was reported to the Captain, who im-
mediately ordered the man to be tried by Bar-
low’s plate, when it was found that he had drunk
seven pints and a half of tank-water more than
his allowance; since which every man is tried by
the plate before he is allowed to take the Leven’s
helm; and this method he recommends for ge-
neral adoption in his Majesty’s navy.

The insertion of this little effusion of early
talent will be pardoned; the writer is no more;
“ consumption stole upon the path of time,” and,
one year after this, his frame sank beneath some
arduous duties to which he was not so necessarily
exposed but that he might have receded from
them had he so measured his sense of duty.

The natives seemed much rejoiced at our re-
turn, and greeted us with the strongest demon—
strations of friendship and regard. English Bill
had accompanied Lieutenant Owen on board the
.Andromache during her visit to Port Melville,
when he was presented to the Commodore. He
diverted us extremely by describing her lofty
appearance as they went alongside : the cleanness

234 BILL’s MIMICRY.

of her decks, which obliged him to walk on tip-
toe, for fear of soiling them with his feet; the
display of copper and brass in various parts of the
ship ; the ornamental arrangement of the warlike
weapons, the size of the guns, the pomp and eti-
quette of the quarter-deck, were all in turn the
subject of his excellent description, eminently
illustrative of the truth and minuteness of his
observation.

As none of the natives had ever heard a band
of music, Bill tried his powers of mimicry. To
imitate each of the different instruments, he pulled
his face into all the changes exhibited by the
performers, but feeling his incapacity to convey
any thing like a perfect idea of the general effect
he would at times ejaculate, “ 011! ver much
fine, too much fine, I no tell how much fine, you
sab all.” But it had escaped the observation of
Bill that the Captain of the Andromache was
called “ Commodore,” and in his earliest descrip-
tions he always styled him Captain; being fre—
quently corrected in this by his hearers, in his
subsequent accounts of this first interview, he,
with great art and address, represented the Com—
modore as taking him to task in an angry and
pompous manner for not understanding the full
extent of his dignity by his title, when his talent
for mimicry was so striking, that the person he
intended to represent could not for one moment
be mistaken. In fact, his numerous talents were
so highly appreciated by his countrymen, that, in
speaking of him, they used to say, “Oh, dat

SUPERSTITION. 235

fellow, Shamaguavaahim sab too much——him
neber die.”

This man and thirteen others embarked on
board the Leven, and “ George of the Sand,”
with two more, on board the Barracouta. They
were with us for nearly five months, and uni—
versally behaved in the most respectful and or-
derly manner, doing their work at all times with
cheerfulness and regularity. As soon as engaged
they threw away with contempt their only article
of covering, and dressed like sailors with the de-
light of children at a new toy. We were never
able to discover any principle of religion amongst
these people, excepting such as is professed by
the whole of their countrymen to the east and
west, who are much addicted to witchcraft and su-
perstition ; all wearing Gregories, or charms, round
their necks, formed in the most fantastical shapes,
and according to their belief gifted with superna-
tural powers. “ George of the Sand” had picked
up some notion of a future state, perhaps from the
Portuguese, having often served them as a boat-
man ; for, upon being once interrogated as to what
would become of him when he was dead, he re-
plied, “ Me stop here,” and pointing first to his own
shadow, then to heaven, “ dat man go dere.” It
must he confessed that even English Bill had not
attained so sublime a notion of the distinction
between body and soul, much less was it under—
stood by others of his countrymen; for all who
were ever questioned upon the subject expressed
a firm belief that man’s chance of eternity was no

236 NATIVES AT DINNER.

greater than that of a dog; and that, after death,
the only prospect was utter annihilationi‘e Not
one of them could conceive the most distant idea
of a God, the Makerof all things and Father of
all men: such a being was so far beyond the
comprehension of these people, that they could
not imagine any power able to make black and
white men the children of one parent !

They changed many of our names to others
more easily understood by themselves: the doctor
they denominated “ Make um well;” and as we
got more to the southward, and consequently
colder, they called their grog “ kill um cold”
instead of “ sopy.”

The chiefs visited us with the greatest con-
fidence both before and after the cession of their
country, and Captain Owen had occasionally some
of them to dine with him, when it was admirable
to observe how soon they acquired the decorum of
civilized society, and the minute forms of a dinner
table. They managed the knife, fork, spoon, and
glass, with as much dexterity as if they had been
accustomed to them all their lives; there was
some difficulty, however, in making them com-
prehend that they were not required to eat and
drink everything offered to them. At first,
both Slangelly and Captain (Faneghy, a cousin
of Slangelly’s and of Mayetta’s,) handed a part of
their food to their attendants, who were permitted
to sit behind them on the cabin-deck, but, finding

* How nearly does this sentiment accord with the result of
French philosophy? let the history of their Revolution tell.

A NATIVE CULPRIT. 237

they were to be afterwards provided for, it was
not repeated.

The ship, upon one occasion, was full of Temby
chiefs and people, when a quarter-master missed a
binnacle-lamp; this was immediately reported to
Slangelly, who gave the necessary orders, and in
less than five minutes his people found it in a
native boat, carefully wrapped up in a piece of
cloth, stowed away in a basket. The culprit was
also produced, and found to be a man who had
long been a servant at the Portuguese factory.
The chiefs cudgelled him heartily on the spot, and
would doubtless have destroyed all his propen-
sities, had not Captain Owen interfered to save
what was left of him, by explaining that no man
was allowed to kill another on board .his ship
without his orders. The poor wretch was there-
fore conveyed to Mayetta, where, according to cus-
tom, he was to be strangled. But the Captain
sent to beg that he might not be further punished,
as King George desired to save men and make
them good, not to kill them. This was the only
instance of dishonesty we had met with during our
stay upon the eastern coast of this continent.

Every arrangement being made for navigating
the vessels to the Cape of Good Hope, on the morn-
ing of the 14th of March we left English River,
and anchored in Leven Road, under Shefean
Island, where we completed our stock of wood;
and, on the morning of the 16th, taking advantage
of the land-wind, we all got clear out to sea; viz.
the Leven, Barracouta, Cockburn, the last com-

938 . FEATURES 01’ THE COUNTRY.

manded by Lieutenant E. O. Johnes; the Sinca-
pore, by acting-Lieutenant Rozier, and the Orange
Grove, belonging. to Mr. Nourse. The intention of
Captain Owen was to conclude the survey of the
coast from the bay to our colony. On the night
of the 17th, it blew tremendously from the
southward, when all the convoy parted com-
pany excepting the Sincapore, which was towed
by the Leven, on account of her bad sailing.

As far as the river St. Lucia the shores present
few pleasing features, but from thence they be-
come more diversified, the sterile sand-hills less
common, and nearly the whole, to the confines
of our colony, offers a series of the most diversified
and pleasing landscapes, in a country not culti-
vated but wasted by the hand of man. As this
coast has for many years been a terror to merchant-
vessels, our minute survey cannot but be of the
greatest benefit to general navigation. Our Kaf-
fers named the countries which we passed, accord—
ing to the following order: from the Keiskamma
to the Buffalo River, Gaika; thence to the Ga-
nooby, Kasoongo; thence to the Kye, Intah'; and
from the Kye north-eastward, Magaléga, Ba-
témbo, Madtellah, and Maheimbo, which is sup-
posed to be about Port Natal. ,

On the 24th we passed the Kowie River, quite
close to its bar, and, contrary to our expectation or
hopes, saw nothing to indicate its being a port, to
say nothing of the importance given to it by the
florid description of the colonists; for, excepting

A SEVERE GALE. 239

one house and two flag-staffs, no other animate or
inanimate object was visible.

On the 25th, whilst standing towards Algoa
Bay, we could perceive a dense black cloud two or
three degrees above the western horizon, a sure
prognostic of an approaching storm : before morn-
ing our ship could hardly carry an inch of can-
vass, and many of the sails were split by the
frightful violence of the wind. The sea during
these gales is extremely dangerous, particularly
to ships heavily laden or impaired by age ; this is
on account of the wind and current being opposed
to each other, which make the waves so very short
and high, that large ships labour most frightfully :
hence the notorious danger of passing the Cape
of Good Hope, and the numerous losses in its
vicinity.

This severe gale came on with the equinoctial
full moon, and, except a moist haze and a few light
scuds that passed rapidly over us, the sky was
perfectly clear.

The easterly winds are far less dangerous than
those from the westward, as, blowing in the same
direction with the current, the waves are much
longer and slower, and do not break so violently.
The westerly winds are always strongest over the
most rapid currents, apparently gathering force
from their resistance. If ships, therefore, boldly
push in for the land, they will usually lose the
current, heavy sea, and gale together, but always
the first two: a knowledge of this fact is ex-

240 ALGOA BAY.

tremely important in the navigation of the Cape
seas.

The Cockburn was seen to leeward, but riding
so well that no apprehensions were entertained for
her safety.

Captain Evatt, the Commandant, and Mr.
Nicholl, a merchant, came on board as soon as
we anchored in Algoa Bay, and brought us many
welcome letters and newspapers from England.
By our orders we were to make this harbour the
first place for our victualling, and thence to
forward accounts of our proceedings: contracts
were accordingly entered into for the necessary
supply ; but as they were not fulfilled, and as, on
account of our serious losses it became necessary
to recruit our numbers, Captain Owen resolved
upon going at once to the Cape of Good Hope.

Shortly after our arrival, a sloop which traded
constantly between Cape Town and the Kowie
River worked out of the bay with a fine breeze;
this vessel was never afterwards heard of, and is
supposed to have foundered at sea: she appeared
totally unfit for such a voyage, being a mere boat
badly constructed, and furnished an instance of
the miserable state of the art of navigation at the
Cape of Good Hope.

Having obtained a small quantity of fresh pro-
visions on the 29th, we quitted Algoa Bay for
Simon’s Town. In the course of this voyage,
which occupied nine days, the weather was vari-
able, with tWo or three severe gales and some dead

A MYSTERIOUS APPEARANCE. 241

calms, during which latter we invariably caught
great quantities of fish of the finest quality.

For many years, the Flying Dutchman has been
a popular superstition and source of terror to
mariners. Few have often passed the Cape but
can tell their tale of what. they saw, or what others
have told them of this mischievous phantom-ship.
Old seamen still while away the tedious night-
watch in repeating to their young and marvel-
loving comrades, stories of this water-sprite; and
many a stout heart has quailed, as with anxious
ears they have listened to the freaks of this airy
terror. The following circumstance happened to
us during this voyage, which called forth many an
almost forgotten record of the “ Flying Dutch-
man.”

In the evening of the 6th of April, when of
Port Danger, the Barracouta was seen about two
two miles to leeward: struck with the singularity
of her being so soon after us, we at first concluded
that it could not be she; but the peculiarity of her
rigging and other circumstances, convinced us
that we were not mistaken; nay, so distinctly was
she seen, that many well-known faces could be
observed on deck, looking towards our ship.
After keeping thus for some time, we became
surprised that she made no effort to join us, but
on the contrary, stood away. But being so near
the port to which we were both destined, Captain
Owen did not attach much importance to this
proceeding, and we accordingly continued our
course.

VOL. I. n

242 THE FLYING DUTCHMAN.

At sun-set it was observed that she hove-to,
and sent a boat away, apparently for the purpose
of picking up a man overboard. During the
night we could not perceive any light or other
indication of her locality. The next morning we
anchored in Simon’s Bay, where, for a whole week,
we were in anxious expectation of her arrival; but
it afterwards appeared that at this very period
the Barracouta must have been above three hun-
dred miles from us, and no other vessel of the
same class was ever seen about the Cape.

This is not told in order to authenticate the
stories of fear or fancy, or to add to the visionary
terrors of superstition, but it is recorded as a'st'range
and at present unaccountable fact, doubtleSS attri—
butable to natural and probably simple Causes.*
Time or accident may solve them ; but until then,
the. imagination of those who delight in junac-
countable things will picture the phantom-ship
as an apparition of dreadful and supernatural
mystery. The popular sequel of the Flying
Dutchman’s history is, that he always visits those
ships off the Cape to whom some misfortune is
threatened: sometimes, it is said, he sends a boat
on board with letters, which, if received, seal the
fate of that vessel, and she must be wrecked, and
every soul perish. For the credit of this nautical
goblin, it ought to be believed, that every ship
lost in these seas has been so visited, which, if,
as required, all are drowned, either may or may
not be true, as there can be none to contradict

’* Such effects may be produced by refraction.

WRECK OF THE COCKBURN. 248

it. The boat never reached us; and although in
a future stage of this expedition he made another
attempt to allure us to a communication, the
malicious fiend was contented with a smaller
sacrifice, and allowed us to return and tell the
tale.

In Simon’s Bay we found the Andromache,
with Commodore Nourse’s pendant, and the De-
light ten-gun brig, Captain Hay. Had this
vessel seen the Flying Dutchman instead of us,
the fire of superstition would by her subsequent,
loss have been fed with a little additional fuel;
nay, many even now think that the phantom mis-
took the vessel, and meant his visit for the unfor-
tunate Delight. But we should imagine him too
good and old a sailor to mistake a frigate for a ten-
gun brig.

We saw the Cockburn a wreck upon the beach.
It appeared that she had attempted to run in
during the night, but the officer mistook the
Table and Musemberg mountains for Simon’s
Bay: as soon as the error was discovered he
anchored; but, the wind blowing strong, and
directly on shore, all her cables broke and she was
irrecoverably stranded, but fortunately without
any loss of life. Her remains were afterwards
sold for timber.

On the 14th, the Barracouta arrived, having
parted from us during a gale of wind, when she
was driven back to the northward of Cape Inyack;
but, after encountering much bad and variable
weather, she contrived to make Algoa Bay by the

R2

Q

244 A DUTCH FRIGATI". WRECKED.

2nd of April. At Port Elizabeth she found the
ofiicers and crew of a small Dutch frigate, theZee-
pard, or Sea-horse, which had been wrecked during
a fog, about three leagues from Cape Reciffe, on
the day of the Leven’s sailing from Algoa Bay.
This accident, like the greater part of those of a
similar nature, might justly be attributed to ex-
treme ignorance and neglect: they had obtained
a meridian altitude, and knew themselves to be
nearly in the latitude of Cape Reciff’e, but never
tried for soundings until three in the afternoon,
when they were amongst the breakers: she was
soon a perfect wreck, ten or eleven of her crew
drowned, and the whole of her stores lost. The
Barracouta received her second captain and fifty
of the crew for a passage to Simon’s Bay, while
the remainder of her oflicers and men proceeded
to Cape Town by land.

Only seven months had elapsed since we last
quitted the Cape, yet many who then were with
us, full of health and hope, were now moulder-
ing in their lonely graves. The mortality had
been fearful. Two—thirds of the officers and
more than one-half of our seamen had we seen
fall victims to this invisible but insidious foe.
One case yet remains to be mentioned, which
by its termination appeared like a punishment of
Divine justice. This was the corporal of marines
on board the Barracouta, who, shortly after
leaving Algoa Bay for the Cape, pretended
to be unwell and not able to rise from his
hammock. Not the least appearance of indis-
position was visible, and the doctor pronounced

FINISHING UUR CHARTS. 245

him perfectly well: it was therefore generally
believed that he used this artifice in order to get
invalided and sent home; but, whether from the
confinement or some other cause, in a few days
he became really ill, and died shortly afterwards.

‘Vhilst at Madagascar, as before stated, Captain
Owen had forwarded directions to Lieutenant
Reitz to open a rendezvous for seamen at Cape
Town, in order to replace those whom we had
lost; and, notwithstanding the mortality we had
experienced, the expedition possessed so great a
charm for both officers and men, that the latter
were soon completed from the different merchant-
vessels, and many of the former were permitted
by the Commodore to join us from his squadron
at their own request.

It may be seen by our orders that we were ex-
pected to make returns of the work we had com-
pleted; our charts were therefore the first objects
of our attention. The Captain hired a house,
together with one of the untenanted offices of
the dock-yard; and whilst the ships were refit—
ting, which occupied until the middle of June,
we finished nineteen double elephant sheets, and
forwarded them to the Admiralty.

Our expedition produced some sensation at the
Cape, as, independently of the relation of facts re—
specting the coast and people, it was considered
as tending, by the greater light thrown on the
commerce of Delagoa, to open another branch
of trade for the merchants. English Bill, on ac—
count of his humour and the native shrewdness
he displayed, was much noticed; his first intro-

246 ENGLISH BILL AT CAPE TOWN.

duction being to some houses in Simon’s Town,
where his whimsical but just remarks upon every
thing he saw afforded much amusement. His
circle of acquaintance soon, however, extended
further; he had heard much of Cape Town, and
could not be contented until he had obtained per-
mission to visit it: when he had succeeded in
this, he was too impatient to wait for the wag-
gon, but commenced his journey on foot, fol-
lowed by one of his humble comrades, for Bill
was by far too, great a man to carry his own
bundle. Whilst at Cape Town, he visited the
Governor and many of the most respectable fa-
milies; he was joined by “ George of the Sand :”
they attended the races together, where the
swiftness of the horses, and the dexterity of
their riders, confounded them With astonishment.
George, seized with the turf-mania, dwelt with
ecstacy on the different colours and qualities of
the horses, as well as the distinguishing dress of
their riders. He appeared to think it impossible
to express fully an idea of their speed, for even
when in the height of his enthusiastic description
he would stop short for want of words to express
himself, and exclaim, “Ride, ride, like devil, flog
like devil; go ~ oh -— go like devil!” He would
then continue the exhibition by assuming the bend-
ing posture of jockeys when riding, fixing his
eye intently on some object directly in front, clap-
ping violently his right thigh with his hand,
and shaking his legs as if in the act of whipping
and spurring.

ENGLISH BILL AT CAPE TOWN. 2417

While English Bill was at Cape Town, those
merchants who felt inclined to speculate with the
people of Delagoa availed themselves of his pre-
sence to obtain the necessary information for car-
lying on a trade with his countrymen. Observ-
ing that they were particularly solicitous respect-
ing the commerce in ivory, on his return to
Simon s Town, he begged a gentleman to explain
the reason, who after describing the various use-
ful purposes to which it was applied, showed him
a very handsome set of chessmen and other arti-
cles of ivory. Bill was astonished, and placing
his hand against his forehead in a thoughtful pos-
ture, exclaimed, “ Me see! me see! Delagoa man
d—n fool, d—n fool—«no saby nothing.” This
gentleman had shown him great attention on all
occasions; when he returned from Cape Town
he repaired to his house, where he found Mr.
Rozier, who, after Bill had stopped some time,
suggested to his worthy host that he should re-
turn to Captain Owen. Bill appeared much an-
noy ed at this, and obstinately pelsisted in his de-
termination not to go, the reason for which
neither of them could imagine, until Bill, who
was evidently much fatigued, explained it by
observing, “ Suppose me go look um cappen,
stop up lead book, speakee me, no let Bill
sleep , ” in allusion to the habits of the Captain,
who seldom slept before three and sometimes
four o’clock in the morning. This is 1elated
as another instance of this man’s acute obser-
vation, which not the most trifling acts of those

248 SALE or A GIFT.

around him escaped. He frequently regretted
the impossibility of his being able to prevail
upon one of the “sweet lady” to accompany
him back to Delagoa, gravely observing, when-
ever he entered upon the subject that she should
have plenty to eat, nothing to do, should rule the
rest of his wives, and command every thing that
he possessed.

A gentleman presented to him a medal of the
Humane Society as a token of remembrance,
which Bill, during his visit to Cape Town, parted
with for six Spanish dollars. The donor was an-
noyed at this, and expressed his displeasure to
Bill, who, ever ready with an excuse, justified his
conduct by declaring that a single piece among
the whole of his family would not make them so
frequently remember the giver as one of less
value to each. His scale for the distribution was
amusing; he commenced with allotting one dol-
lar to himself, and one to his principal wife, to
himself again, and then to his second, and so on
to the last, always taking one to himself for every
wife. Upon the whole, Bill and George found
their vanity much gratified by the attention they
received ; and their curiosity agreeably awakened
by the various novelties that a civilized place

afforded. .

BALL ON BOARD. 249

CHAPTER XIII.

Ball on board—The Albatross—Missionaries Betheldorp and
Uitenhage — Trade with Delagoa — Perfidy -— Expedition
against the Zoolos—Point Reuben—Native Plants—An
Elephant——A Portuguese Lady—Cowardly Revenge—Expe-
dition in Boats—Matchakany—A Portuguese Suppliant—
Unburied Bodies.

NOTHING could exceed the friendship and hos—
pitality shown to us by every class of residents
during our stay in this interesting colony; as an
acknowledgment for which, on the 30th of May,
Captain Owen gave a ball and supper, on board
the Leven, to one hundred and fifty ladies and
gentlemen.

The ship, under the management of Lieute-
nants Mudge and Owen, was completely tented
in, and every thing being off the upper deck,
the ball—room was fitted between the fore and
main-masts, the quarter-deck was made into
a drawing and card room, while the captain’s
cabin was appropriated to the ladies, and the main

250 THE ALBA’I‘ROSS.

deck arranged, from head to stem, with supper
tables. After being entertained with a display of
fire-works, “dancing commenced and continued
with much spirit until day light,” when they
were pleased to say, that so splendid and delight-
ful a party had never been given on ship-board,
so long as they or the Cape had been there.

The total loss of the Cockburn rendered another
small vessel necessary, and early in June the A1-
batross, a schooner, was purchased for 2000]., fully
equipped and ready for sea, with the exception
of some trifling alterations which did not occupy
more than a few days. Lieutenant Richard
Owen, who had been for some time perfectly re-
covered, was put in command, and as our provi-
sions were contracted for at Algoa Bay, she sailed
for that place on the 23rd to await our arrival.

As before mentioned, Captain Owen had made
an arrangement with the Governor of Mozam-
bique, for the exploration of the river Zambizi
in the month of July. But the insight he had
obtained of the Portuguese character upon this
coast, led him to doubt, and not in any mea-
sure to rely upon the fulfilment of their promises
to participate in its dangers. It was therefore
planned without any dependence upon their co-
operation. Lieutenant Charles VVilliam Browne,
Mr. George Kilpatrick, an assistant surgeon, and
Mr. John Forbes, the botanist, having volunteered
for the expedition, were occupied during our stay
at the Cape in providing themselves with the ne-
cessary information and equipment. Before leav-

MISSIONARIES. 251

ing the Cape, the Wesleyan missionaries, ani-
mated by their zeal in the noblest of all causes,
waited on Captain Owen to inquire if there was
any opening for their exertions at Delagoa Bay:
he said that he could assure them of a friendly'
reception from the native chiefs, and that he
would readily give any persons appointed by them
a passage for so laudable an undertaking. Ac-
cordingly, Mr. Threlfall, a young man of sound
health and constitution, was chosen by the society
and received on board, to be landed at Temby.
On the 16th of June the Barracouta left Si-
mon’s Bay, to proceed on her voyage, and to meet
us at Algoa or some other part of the coast. we
followed her on the 25th, and in two days beat
in a heavy gale of wind, into Port Elizabeth,
where we anchored alongside the Albatross. The
Barracouta did not arrive until four days after-
wards, having experienced much bad weather.
Whilst in Algoa Bay, Lieutenant Browne and
Mr. Forbes were employed in gaining such intel-
ligence as they imagined might be useful in their
projected expedition from Senna and Tete to the
Cape Colony. Mr. Read, of the London Mis-
sionary Society, came on board to give them all
the information in his power. This gentle-
man had been at Lattakoo and Kurrachine,
with his companion, Mr. Campbell, (whose travels
have been published,) when he married a native
of the former place, or neighbouring country. He
induced Captain Owen to visit Betheldorp, which
was the seat of his present labours. This is a

252 BETHELI)()RP AND UITENHAGE.

village of Hottentots, under the direction of the
London Missionary Society, containing about
fourteen hundred persons. It did not appear to be
under good management, the inhabitants being
subject to much oppression, not from any fault
in the directors of this humble establishment, but
from the unequal laws of the Colony, which deny
the native Hottentot and free men of colour, (if
they be poor,) either the rights of freedom or the
advantages of slavery. Such is not the case at
Uitenhage, about double the distance from Port
Elizabeth; this little village, situated on the
banks and in the vale of the Zwart Kop, contains
about three hundred inhabitants, fostered by the
protection of Government. A great part of the
village belongs to Colonel Kayler, the resident,
who received and entertained Our travellers most
hospitably. The proximity of Betheldorp and
Uitenhage appeared to create much jealousy and
many disputes between the Resident and the
London Mission about the aborigines, who by
some law of the Colony, are compelled to serve
the colonists : but who, in their turn, are under no
obligation, either to employ or maintain them;
neither can the native Hottentot possess any
land in his own right. It is to be lamented
that the British Government, in obtaining pos—
session of this colony, should have adopted the
injustice of their predecessors.

On the 2nd of July the Barracouta sailed for
Quillimane, when we bade a final adieu to Lieute-
nant Browne and his party.

TRADE WITII DELAGOA. 253

Whilst at the Cape the merchants were induced
to open a trade with the negroes of Delagoa Bay,
when English Bill and several of our natives were
permitted to engage themselves in the double ca-
pacity of seamen and interpreters. Three vessels
were fitted out for this purpose, the Salisbury,
Mr. King master, the Orange-Grove and the Jane,
the first being equipped by a joint-stock com-
pany, at a ruinous rate; and the two latter be—
longing exclusively to H. Nourse, Esq. These
vessels arrived at Port Elizabeth during our stay,
when the master of the Salisbury, and Mr. Fare-
well, the principal merchant, came on board to
Captain Owen, who gave them all the local des—
criptions they required and also two Kafi‘ers as
linguists.

It is an unpleasant task to record the errors or
faithlessness of mankind, as it calls forth the re-
collection of our own imperfect nature: but the
following instance of perfidy meeting its reward
is too strong a lesson of immediate punishment
to pass unnoticed, Before these vessels sailed,
Captain Owen explained to the master of the
Salisbury that, in consequence of variable weather,
we had only been enabled to trace the coast about
Port Natal and the river St. Lucia by sailing
along it. T o benefit the service as much as pos—
sible, although he intended again to Visit these
places, Captain Owen gave the master of this
vessel a tracing of our chart, on condition that he
would make as good a sketch of St. Lucia and _
Port Natal as was in his power. This he was to

254 PERFIDY.

leave with the Commodore for the Captain, in
case of any circumstance preventing his return to
that part of the coast.

It afterwards appeared that he was at both these
places, and made a chart or survey of Port Natal,
but instead of leaving it, as promised, with the
Commodore, upon his return to England he pre-
vailed upon a certain nobleman to accompany him
to the Admiralty, where he stated that he had dis-
covered and surveyed a very important harbour
which had escaped the surveying squadron’s obser-
vation, and which he was ready to give up on con-
dition of being made a lieutenant, having served
his time as a midshipman. The inference that
might have been drawn from this representation
was, that we had overlooked a point of material
importance; but the Admiralty, havinga just sense
of the merits of the officers to whom they had en-
trusted the survey, dismissed the proposer in the
most contemptuous manner. “’e afterwards
made an accurate chart of Port Natal. But the
person who had thus endeavoured to throw a
stigma upon our services was, by a strange fa-
tality, whilst upon the coast in another vessel,
wrecked on the bar at the entrance to this very
harbour.

VVe were fully occupied until the 6th in em-
barking provisions for eight months, but on the
following day we sailed for Delagoa, to finish
the survey of the bay and Mapoota River.
During this voyage we had many severe gales,
yet were enabled to trace much of the coast, and

EXPEDITION AGAINST THE ZOOLOS. 255

to obtain many soundings. On the 22nd we
anchored in English River, and found the Jane,
with King Kapell, Slangelly, and English Bill,
on board, making arrangements concerning the
trade. Immediately after our arrival Mr. Threl-
fall was landed. He chose Point Mahone as the
seat of his mission, and King Kapell granted him
about one hundred and sixty acres of land upon
certain conditions, in a solemn assembly of his
chiefs, and in the presence of Captain Owen
and his officers. Being taken under the immediate
protection of Prince Slangelly, his first object
was to obtain a knowledge of the language; but
the result of this enterprising young man’s exer-
tions will be the subject of further notice.

The warlike, but restless Zoolos, under Loon-
kundava, had settled on the right bank of King
George River, having driven out the native in-
habitants. With a View to please Qhaka, of
whom the Commandant was in some dread, he
detached nearly all his officers and forty soldiers
of his garrison to hunt them out of Cherinda,
Where they were fixed. This expedition was ac-
companied by 'a long-boat, which proceeded up
the river, but, having lost two or three men in a
skirmish, the remainder returned to pursue the
more peaceable and less dangerous occupation of
traffic.

On the 24th of July, the master of the Jane
schooner, the same Mr. Maynard, whose life was
so miraculously preserved, undeterred by the
fatal issue of the Orange Grove’s attempt to trade

256 POINT REUBEN.

in the Mapoota, sailed for that river by anl-
tation from King Makasany.

Lieutenant Mudge was occupied with two
boats in surveying the south side of the bay
till the 4th of August, and, though the weather was
so bad as to put one of his boats in a sinking state,
he traced the shores for about twenty leagues,
and completed the survey of Port Melville-
On the 27th of Jul y, being Sunday, Mr. Threlfall
performed divine service on board, which was at-
tended by several of the chiefs and many of the
natives of Temby, whose conduct was always ex-
tremely orderly upon such occasions.

During a botanical excursion the Captain and
surgeon, with a few men, traversed the penin-
sula of Point Reuben, which seems to have been
so called by the English Whalers; for the For—
tuguese are too idle or indifferent even to name
the places around them. It forms the northern
point of English River, and rises abruptly from
the sea to a height of about two hundred feet. In
a small bay, just within the river’s mouth, are the
remains of a well, made by the Dutch, when they
settled there from 1719 to 1736; it is situated im-
mediately under the only pathway up the face of
the Cape, but it is now totally neglected both by
the Portuguese and natives: by the former, be-
cause it is too far from the fort, and by the latter
because they get water any where under the
cliffs by digging small holes in the sand. The
summit of the Cape was partially and had been
entirely cultivated, but was so frequently wasted

NATIVE PLANTS. 257

by enemies and elephants, that the crops were too
uncertain; sweet potatoes, pumpkins, onions,
maize, millet, and azaite, with the common cali-
bash-tree, were the only productions visible in
small parcels ; and not more than five or six huts
could be seen scattered over several square miles,
where formerly there had been many populous
villages.

The azaite, as it is called by the Portuguese, by
the Arabs, mafoota, and by the natives, mapoéta,
is much cultivated in all Eastern Africa; the oil
expressed from it being considered equal to that
of olives, and obtaining as high a price in the In-
dian market. The plant, which is as tall and rank
as hemp, is extremely productive, having nume-
rous pods throughout the stems, and being found
everywhere in a wild, as well as in a cultivated
state. It is the didynamia gymnospermia, with a
beautiful corolla not much unlike the fox-glove
but smaller. Amongst the trees were several
bearing two different sorts of perfect flowers; the
classes, orders, and characters of which were to-
tally difl'erent. It was after some difficulty dis-
covered that one of them, like our misletoe, was
a parasite, but so intimately were they united,
that it was almost impossible to know the flowers
of the original tree, unless by referring to others
on which no such leech had fastened. But the
most curious plant they found, was the great eu-
phorbium, or spurge, which was growing in every
direction to a height of thirty feet on the preci-
pices of the Cape; whenever the flowers or

VOL. I. s

258 AN ELEPHANT.

leaves were broken, a milky liquid flowed from

. the fracture in streams.

An elephant was seen by the side of the lake
Moonyana; he was carefully reconnoitred from a
distance, but, curiosity getting the better of dis-
cretion, the party made a small détour of some
underwood in order to approach more closely,
but when they emerged from the thicket
they found themselves within fifty yards of him.
He proved to be a tremendous animal, about
fourteen feet high; he was lying on the cool
shores of the lake, but having scented our party
he got up and advanced a little into the plain,
exhibiting evident symptoms of impatience and
displeasure at being thus disturbed, by tossing up
the earth and sand with his trunk, stamping with
his feet, and at length advancing a little nearer to
the intruders, who, however, prudently declined
any further communication. In this excursion,
numerous skeletons, skulls, and even bodies of
natives, were found uninterred, thus marking the
progress of barbarism where property and lives
have no security from social regulations.

On the 2nd, a party of Zoolos were seen about
a mile from the fort. The Commandant imme-
diately sent three soldiers to chase them away.
Of these one was killed on the spot, and the

other two were badly wounded. One actually

returned with his entrails in his arms; but death
soon relieved. him from his sufferings. We after-
wards learnt that this man was one of four
soldiers, who, at Mozambique, had murdered a

A PORTUGUESE LADY. 259

young Englishman named Dowling. Upon this
matter there was much correspondence between
the Governments of Calcutta, Goa, Mozambique,
London, and Lisbon, his father being in the ser-
vice of the East India Company at Bengal. But
atrocious as the act was, there did not appear
any just reason for the interference of British
authority, as, at the time, Mr. Dowling was ac-
tually serving as master of a Portuguese mer-
chant-vessel.

As this circumstance excited much interest in
India and is unpublished, its recital may here
be considered worthy of perusal. A Portuguese
family, notorious for wealth and licentiousness,
resided at Mozambique. Of the female branches
Donna L—-— was reputed handsome; she had
for a short time tasted the sweets of matrimony,
but was now a gay and young widow without any
restraint. This lady was visited by all the gen-
tlemen of the place. But the man who pre—
tended to the exclusive enjoyment of her favours,
was a Colonel P de C—-, who united in
his character all the essentials of a coward and
a bully.

It appeared, however, tha the had rather over-
rated his powers of attraction, for Donna L
was at once struck with a passion for the
young Englishman, who was remarkable for ele-
gance of person and gentlemanly manners. The
proofs of the lady’s preference for poor Dow—
ling were too conspicuous to escape the penetra-
tion of the ci—devant lover, whose warm' and

S 2

 

 

260 COWARDLY REVENGE.

jealous temperament was at once inflamed by all
the demons of hatred and revenge. Fearing the
coolness and courage of the English character, he
endeavoured to control his anger until a favour-
able opportunity ofi'ered for a sure and bloody
sacrifice of its object. This event was perhaps
a little hastened by a meeting which took place
between the parties at the house of Donna L——,
when the colonel, a little excited by wine, forgot
his cold-blooded policy, and, overcome by love
and jealousy, not only insulted but afterwards
drew his sword upon Dowling in the ladies‘ pre-
sence.

The Englishman acted as most of his country'-
men would have done under the same circum-
stances, by instantly seizing the colonel, thrusting
him out of the room, and then, it is said, kick-
ing him down stairs. Dowling concluded that
this affair would not end here; he thought
that the Portuguese character was as brave and
honourable as his own, and, in expectation of
having to give the colonel satisfaction in the
morning, went to bed. He slept upon the ground-
floor of the tavern, and was in the habit of leav-
ing his window open for air during the night.
Four assassins, soldiers, by the direction of the
vanquished colonel, took advantage of this to
enter his room and make a cowardly attack upon
him whilst sleeping; he awoke bleeding from
several wounds, yet undismayed, arose, and with
determined heroism seized one of their weapons,
and actually, in this exhausted state, beat them

EXPEDITION IN BOATS. 261

out of the room. But this was his last effort;
be immediately sank upon the bed, and, from
the injuries which he had received, died within
an hour. All the inhabitants were much in-
terested in this case, and tried to bring the of-
fenders to justice; but the cowardly policy of the
general would not sentence a soldier to death for
any crime. Accordingly, neither Don P——- de
C—— nor any of the other assassins were pu-
nished beyond a short imprisonment and re-
moval to distant posts. But it was related to
us, that not only the man before mentioned,
but two more of the murderers, had met with
Violent deaths; the fourth never having since
been heard of.

On the 5th, the Melville and Croker boats were
fitted for an expedition up the Mattoll and Dun-
das Rivers ; the Captain being determinedyby his
own example, to remove the dread of these ex—
cursions, which was too evident amongst the crew.
Our boats were well armed and equipped with a
rocket—gun, by which we hoped to kill a hippopo-
tamus. In the afternoon of the first day, we got
to Mattoll; and, having burnt down much of the
long dry grass with which the shores of all these
rivers are most luxuriantly covered, we pitched
our tent on a convenient flat, when Mr. Rozier
was sent to Matchakany to announce the Cap-
tain’s intended visit; and on the following morn-
ing we walked up to his village, a distance of
about two miles from our tents.

But, as accounts of these rivers have already

262 MATCHAKAN Y.

been given, it is intended merely to relate the
proceedings, of our party during this second
voyage of exploration. As soon as our arrival
was announced, the King ordered mats for the
Captain and his party under a foongarva tree,
when a few bottles of rum, some tobacco, cloth,
and beads, were presented to Matchakany by the
Captain; in return for which his Majesty or-
dered a drove of his cattle down to our tents,
from which we were to select and shoot one for
our own use. The Captain then smoked a few
cigars, and by the aid of some Mattollese, who
spoke a little Portuguese, and others who had a
smattering of English, carried on a long conver—
sation with Matchakany, who told him, amongst
other things, that he considered the King of Por-
tugal as his brother, the Portuguese having al-
ways been his friends, although there were bad
people amongst them; such as the present Com-
mandant, whom he described as a wicked and
foolish man.

During this interview a Portuguese suddenly
came from the crowd, and throwing himself before
Captain Owen embraced his feet, at the same
time presenting a written paper, which proved to
be a memorial to the Governor of Mozambique.
His name was Anselmo de Nascimento, and it
appeared that he had been Secretary to the Por-
tuguese factory, but was now banished to the
woods by the Commandant. As soon as the
Captain had heard his story, and ascertained that

A PORTUGUESE SUPPLIANT. 263

his only wish was to be conveyed to Mozam—
bique, he asked Matchakany what he knew of
him, who said that the poor man being turned
out of the fort could not subsist; he therefore had
from time to time supplied him with food, for
it was disgraceful to see a white man starving
in his country. In addition to this, he acknow—
ledged some individual obligations to Anselmo,
and concluded by saying, that so long as he was
in distress he should be treated as his son, but
that he feared the vengeance of the Commandant
for thus affording him shelter.

As soon as Anselmo had received an assurance
of the Captain’s protection, he retired and brought
in his wife, who was far advanced in pregnancy.
She told Captain Owen that she had quitted the
factory contrary to the orders of Lupe, being re-
solved to live or die with her husband. It need
not be said that their story drew forth much
sympathy from every Englishman. These people
were natives of Goa and dark mulattoes, although
Matchakany called them white. Anselmo had
in a short time completely acquired the native
language, and afterwards became very useful to
us as an interpreter.

“Tith Matchakany there was a messenger from
the Zoolos, an immense man, with not an ar-
ticle of clothing save an humble ofl'ering to mo-
desty. The whole country had again been deso-
lated by these restless savages, but Matchakany
had, nevertheless, at least a ton of good ivory in his

264 UNBURIED BODIES;

huts. Many bodies of the Mattollese, destroyed
by them during their invasion, still lay rotting in
the face of the sun; but we were informed that
their custom is to let them remain where they
fall, unless some relation undertakes to bury
them.

ASCEND THE DUNDAS. 265

CHAPTER XIV.

Ascend the Dundas. -— Hippopotami. -— Imprudence. — The
Hunters entrapped. — A liberated Captive. -—- Seizure of
Slaves—English Merchant-ships.——Shores of the Mapoota.-——
Hunting Hippopotami.—Regulations for Trading—Miss the
Barracouta.—A new Tribe.——Their Conduct.——-A curious
Custom—Traffic.

SHORTLY after we had returned to our tents,
Matchakany came down with his secretary to
visit the Captain; they behaved with much de—
corum, but the latter gentleman had no objection
to get drunk, although his master was a water-
drinker, quite a ram avis in this country.

A fine cow was chosen from the herd sent
down by Matchakany for our consumption, when
some of the party fired at her, and she was soon
butchered, the attendant Mattollese having a deli-
cious feast from the entrails and ofi‘al.

On the morning of the 6th we quitted Mattol
and commenced ascending the Dundas, or “ fresh
water river." The hippopotami were extremely

266 IIIPPOPOTAMI.

numerous, forming, apparently, a solid phalanx.
As we approached they commenced snorting and
opening their terrific jaws in the most frightful
and menacing manner. The Croker happening to
graze a monster in a shallow part of the river, he
immediately made a furious plunge, and lifted
the boat with seven people half out of the water,
so that the keel actually cracked, but the poor
hippopotamus was so dreadfully alarmed that he
escaped with all speed before any one had time to
strike him. When near the navigable summit of
the river, another of these unwieldy brutes rushed
from the marshy margin of reeds on the bank,
and galloped towards the boat open-mouthed
and bellowing most hideously. Had this been
our first rencontre it might have been alarming,
but we had learned that the slightest flash of
fire would turn them when in the most infuriat-
ed state. The Captain and Mr. Durnford fired
together, the former with an elephant-gun and
pewter bullet, when he was not more than twelve
yards from the boat: but his thick hide repelled
the ball, and it had only the effect of turning
him back amongst the high reeds whence he
had issued. Some of our party landed in pur-
suit, when Mr. Tudor came upon him again, but
his retreat was so thick and high, that they could
nowhere see five yards around, and were only
able to move in the alleys made by the beasts,
so that his escape from such inexperienced hun-
ters was not difficult.

Our tents were pitched on a beautiful penin-

IMPRUDENCE. 267

sula, on the left bank of the river, after burning
down the grass, for the double purpose of having
a clear spot, and to dry the ground upon which
we were to sleep, as the night-exhalation from
the damp earth is almost universally fatal to
Europeans. But the Portuguese Secretary and
his wife merely cut a few bushes to cover them-
selves, without any such precaution; and in this
manner they had lived for more than a month,
yet neither of them had suffered in the slightest
degree.

More cautious habits are, however, certainly ne-
cessary for Europeans in general; yet nothing is
more difficult to instil into the minds of unthink-
ing seamen and soldiers, who, after many hours’
exposure to a hot sun and hard labour, are glad to
throw off their warm clothing and indulge in the
coolest and most exposed situations; but it ge-
nerally happened that those who took cold, or
were chilled by such exposure, fell victims to
their imprudence. During this expedition one of
our sailors, John Brown, feeling much heated,
took off his flannel waistcoat as soon as he was in
his tent and went to sleep, contrary to the Cap-
tain’s positive orders; he awoke perfectly chilled,
was taken ill immediately, and died within a few
days. Two other men also suffered from a si-
milar cause, but recovered by the early attention
of the surgeon, who formed one of the party.

The Captain made a night excursion to try to
kill some hippopotami, but their senses were by
far too acute to admit of a near approach—and it

268 THE HUNTERS ENTRAPPED.

being very dark, the numerous pitfalls that the
natives prepare for catching these animals ren-
dered the excursion extremely hazardous, as even
by day many of our people had found themselves
suddenly entrapped, whilst in pursuit of their
game. The sensation was described as anything
but pleasant, when walking thoughtlessly along to
be suddenly precipitated some ten or a dozen feet
into the bowels of the earth, with the not distant
prospect of finding a companion upon your descent
in the form of an hippopotamus; such a meet-
ing would certainly have been far from satisfac-
tory to either of the parties.

We saw numerous herds of large deer, with
tracks of elephants and other, but unknown, ani—
mals. Our time and duties did not, however, al-
low us an opportunity of pursuing the enquiry
by following their footsteps.

The whole country seen in this excursion was
most. richly endowed with Nature’s gifts. It
possessed an immense depth of fertile soil, but not
a stone was anywhere seen, excepting at the
mouth of English River, Where, on the beach,
some agates and other pebbles were found, and
where the ruddy cliffs, formed from a mixture of
sand and clay,become occasionally indurated by ex-
posure to the sun; when immense blocks fall, and
lie immoveably like small rocks at their bases~re-
cords of time—-the tombstones of ages. Nothing,
perhaps, calls more forcibly to the mind the un-
seen, the silent workings of Nature, than these part-
ed fragments over a wild and unfrequented waste;

A LIBERATED CAPTIVE. 269

all the animal creation near them must have been
in consternation at the moment of their fall—when
the lonely solitude must have rung with thunder-
ing echoes—-the beasts and birds must have burst
forth in terrific chorus, and the surrounding bills
have trembled with the shock ! It is but seldom
that these events take place, perhaps not more
than twice in a century, some of the enor-
mous fragments bearing strongly the marks of
time.

Much amber is found upon the shores of this
bay; and on Elephant Island a piece of lava was
picked up, which would imply the former exist-
ence of a volcano at no great distance, although
we know of none nearer than Mayetta; but it
might easily have been brought thence by the
perennial current to the southward, through the
DIozambique Channel.

From Anselmo we learnt that the Commandant
had killed one Temby man, and seized another,
whom he still retained as his slave. He was
accordingly claimed upon our return to English
River as a. British subject, under the cession of
Temby, and as Mayetta was on board on the 8th,
with about twenty of his chiefs, the case was
investigated and Anselmo’s statement fully cor-
roborated. The unhappy wretch’s chains were
therefore knocked off, when he once more re-
turned to his country and home. This scene was
beyond description : the poor fellow embraced his
chief as if he had been his father, and kissed the
feet of all around him. The Captain directed

270 SEIZURE or SLAVES.

Mayetta to suspend the irons in which he had
been confined to the roof of his tent, as a memento
~ of the humanity and justice of the English nation.
This investigation was the means of bringing to
light an intended act of Mayetta’s, which re-
dounded but little to his credit. It appeared that
the Portuguese Commandant had persuaded him
to seize and sell a number of his own wretched
and defenceless subjects for slaves, at the price of
about a dollar and a half each, paid in value-
less merchandize; and he had actually an expe-
dition on foot for the purpose, as the Commandant
was in daily expectation of the annual ships from
Mozambique to take his living cargo. Captain
Owen expressed his displeasure, and desired Ma-
yetta neither to sell nor kill any prisoners he might
take; such acts being contrary to the laws of the
King of England, and to those of God. This he
promised faithfully; but alas! the tiger cannot
change his skin, for we afterwards learnt that he
actually procured the number required by the
Commandant, who exported them to Brazil.

The master of the Renard, Mr. Graden, came
on board to complain of his crew, who had re-
fused to work his ship, then at anchor in King
George’s Bay. It appeared that he had been
upwards of two years from England, having
visited the Marquesas and Pitcairn Islands, and
almost performed a circuit of the globe; but his
cargo was not yet completed. This was attributed
by the men to his own vice of drunkenness ; and
as they all sailed on shares, they considered them—

ENGLISII MERCHANT-SHIPS. 271

selves justified in coming to a resolution that no
spirits should enter the vessel until her return
to England. The master would not, however,
be restrained by a regulation which interdicted his
favourite passion; so, having procured some rum
from another Whaler, he took it on board his own
vessel; upon which the crew refused to do any
work until it was thrown overboard. Mr. Rozier
was sent with a boat’s crew to bring her to our
anchorage, where she arrived on the 11th, when
a Court of Inquiry was held by the Captain and
Lieutenants; who confirmed the resolution of the
men, and entered the result in her log-book.

Perhaps there are no merchant-ships on the
ocean, wherein the crews are so habitually ill-
treated, and are themselves so insubordinate, as
those of England. To investigate this important
subject would occupy more space than can be
allowed in this narrative; but it may be observed
that, whenever we fell in with any merchant-
vessels of our own nation, we were almost uni—
versally referred to, in order to settle some dis-
pute between the master and crew, without
our having any direct authority to interfere.

On the 12th, Lieutenant Antonio Texeira, of
the Portuguese factory, came on board in his way
from the King George’s River, where he had been
sent after the rebellious Zoolos, but whom he had
been too wise to find.

\Ve commenced taking in our wood and water
from Elephant Island, during which time the
Captain, with a boat’s crew and four marines, em-

272 SHORES OF THE MAPOOTA.

barked on board the Albatross, to sail up the Ma-
poota for its examination. To remove the supersti-
tious fear of this river produced by Lieutenant
Owen’s disastrous expedition, he proposed this as
a party of pleasure to hunt the hippopotami; in
consequence, volunteers were abundant, and we
had hopes of being able to take some of these ani-
mals by means of a small two-pound brass field-
piece and grape-shot, as hitherto we had found it
impracticable to kill them with musketry. Al-
though in so small a vessel, drawing only seven
feet water, we found the navigation very difficult,
and it was necessary to examine the way by al-
ways having two light boats ahead to sound; but
sufficient evidence was afforded of the importance
and productiveness of the country contiguous to
the Mapoota by the many native boats passing
to and from English River, some of them with
Portuguese soldiers, who had been catering for
the garrison. The shores, for twenty miles, are
a complete jungle of impenetrable mangroves, ex-
cepting at certain points, where paths have been
opened to the villages, which are seen rising on
every hillock behind the river’s margin, in little
groups of neat, circular, cone-roofed huts. King
Makasany was at one of his villages, where he
had been bartering with the supercargo of the
Jane; but immediately upon hearing of our ar-
rival he set off for another, about twelve miles
distant. This was a courtly ruse, in order to get
a present as an inducement for him to return.
Mr. Arlett was accordingly sent with two bottles

HUNTING IIIPPOPOTAMI. 273

of rum and some tobacco; he slept at the vil-
lage, was feasted a night, and returned the fol-
lowing day with a bullock as an offering from
his Majesty.

we were continually occupied in surveying the
river and hunting the hippopotami, which latter
was by far the most laborious task. Upon one oc-
casion we fired a volley of iron grape-shot, from
our two-pounder, amongst five or six of them at
a distance of forty yards; yet not one was killed,
although their hides and flesh were completely
furrowed. One of the wounded sufferers shortly
afterwards rushed to the woods, stamping and
foaming with pain and rage. He at first set ofl‘
with speed, but soon slackened his pace, and ulti-
mately stopped from loss of blood. Nothing'can
convey an idea of the tortured monster’s roars,
as the woods and country resounded for miles
with the terrific and hideous sound. We had
great hopes of securing him, and a party instantly
set out in pursuit, but, as they approached, he
again took to the water, and at once destroyed our
expectations. This was the only instance we had
met with of their taking to the land after being
wounded; their general habit being to get into a
hole in the bed of the river, there to die ; and the
natives informed us that the wounded monster’s
companions surround the expiring beast, and will
not allow it to rise to the surface. This state-
ment was in some measure authenticated by their
carcases never being found until in a state of pu-
trefaction.

VOL. I. T

274 REGULATIONS FOR TRADING.

On the 22nd we received several messengers
from Makasany, to announce the different stages
of his approach; when he arrived at the village
of Modaloniva, the Captain and some officers went
and presented to him a keg of pine-apple rum,
with which he was extremely delighted, as being
so much stronger than that obtained by traffic,
which, by long custom, is always well watered.

Anselmo, the Portuguese, and English Bill,
being both with us, we had no difficulty in
making ourselves understood. At the request of
the merchants, Captain Owen made some regula-
tions for tradingwith the English who might
visit the river, and fixed a scale of duties in lieu
of arbitrary exactions under the name of presents.
After the conference, we returned to our vessel,
and, having concluded the eXamination of the
river on the 25th, rejoined the ship.

We found on the shore the putrid carcase of a
Whale, the smell of which had brought gangs’of
natives from the neighbourhood within olfactory
range, to regale upon the delicious morsel; and
day and night the fires informed us of the con—
tinuance of the feast, whilst the perfume gave us
constant evidence of its disgusting nature.

In these river excursions we had lost only two
men, one the sailor before mentioned, and the
other a corporal of marines, who, whilst on duty
at the tent up the Mapoota, deserted his post and
slept on the ground. The spell thus seemed
broken which had hung over these expeditions,
and, during the remainder of the voyage, none of

MISS THE BARRACOUTA. 275

our crew appeared to have the slighest hesitation,
or fear in undertaking them.

On the 30th we ran over to Port Melville,
to complete our stock of water, and on the 6th
of September got out to sea with a strong wind
from the southward. It is unnecessary here
to mention the different countries we passed,
as they were nearly all visited upon future occa-
sions, when they will, be more particularly no-
ticed. On the 11th we stood in-shore, off In—
hamban, where it was arranged that the Bar-
racouta was to meet us; but so much time had
been absorbed in completing the great bay of
Delagoa, that the Captain, not seeing her within
the river, felt confident that she must have left that
rendezvous. We therefore continued our course,
being very anxious again to rejoin her. On
the 12th we anchored under the north point of
the Bazaruta Islands, while the Albatross exa-
mined the navigation towards the bay formed be-
tween them and the main-land. On the follow- ,
ing morning Mr. Badgley was sent ashore to
search for any notice which the Barracouta might
have left for us; but finding none, he returned
on board, when we beat close round a projecting
spot of sand, and anchored in the open bay. A
boat was immediately sent on shore, with Mr.
Bowie, midshipman, and the Portuguese secre-
tary as an interpreter. Mr. Bowie found many
of the natives ready to receive him, and amongst
them an old man who called himself King. Their
costume differed from that of the natives south

T 2

276 A NEW TRIBE.

of Inhamban in wearing an apron of goat-skin,
and being all armed with bows and arrows.
They are of the tribe called Lindiens by the
Portuguese. This term seemed so probable a
corruption of “ L’Indian,” that we at first mis-
took it for a' general appellation for all savages on
the coast; but at Sofala we learned that it was
applied only to a new nation from the interior,
who had completely exterminated all the old in-
habitants of the sea-coast between Sofala and In-
hamban; and whose habits were so savage that
unarmed traders of the Portuguese seldom visit-
ed them. The name of the old chief, or king,
was Na Ma’ssingoe: he called the large island
Pemga, and said he had abundance of cattle,
sheep, poultry, and pearls, for which he wanted
cloth in exchange. He gave Mr. Bowie some
pearls as a sample, which appeared good, and of
tolerable size, although we afterwards learned that
they never went more than knee-deep to fish
for them. The language appeared to be a mix-
ture of Delagoa, Inhamban, and Majowyie, with
many Portuguese words. The Majowyie and
the Makwanos are the two tribes best known to
the Portuguese around Mozambique and to the
northward. We were thus enabled to trace a
similitude of language from 120 to 330 south,
sufficient perhaps to assign a common origin to
all the numerous tribes between those latitudes.
Of the four following terms, elicited by the first
communication with these people, two are evidently
Portuguesehand probably only used under the

THEIR CONDUCT. 277

impression that they would be better under-
stood : —

Man’yan To-morrow.
Galeena Fowls.
Bura Cattle.
Miffisy Pearls,

The natives were apparently timid and cautious,
owing, it was understood, to the practice of kid-
napping amongst the present French and former
English and Dutch slave-traders. On the land-
ing of our people they laid by their bows and
arrows, and came forward to meet them with evi-
dent demonstrations of friendship. Our officers
asked for water, which they said should be sup-
plied to—morrow, but that it was then too late in
the day; a shovel was in consequence handed out
of the boat to dig for some, but the natives imme-
diately flew to their arms, and desired the people
to desist. Yet, as hippopotami resort to these
islands, there can be no doubt that fresh water
may be obtained in abundance. Fish of all kinds
are plentiful, and the party saw a great variety
of rare and beautiful shells. The pearl-oyster
is found in every direction, but the finest are
said to be near the continent, a little to the
northward, which coast is called Buok, where
the l’ortuguese say they have a small establish-
ment upon the river Mambone.

As the pearls on this coast have not been fished
for several generations, there is not, perhaps, any
spot which offers so fair an opening for mercantile
enterprise. '

278 A cumous CUSTOM.

Their sheep are of the Tartar or large-tailed
breed, with hair instead of wool; the price de-
manded for one was a fathom and a half of blue
or check dungaree, and numbers of these, together
with fowls and goats, were purchased for trifling
pieces of the same stuff. For six fathoms, the
old king sold fourteen ounces of good ambergris,
worth, perhaps, twenty pounds. He had with
him about as much more, but would not part
with it, having procured as much cloth as he
desired.

Several women visited our party—they wore
belts of large beads, cut out of the columns of
conch shells, and had one custom which we had
nowhere else observed. This consisted in hav-
ing the upper-lip bored through, into which was
introduced a piece of ivory, or shell, made in the
shape of a horn, very smooth, and about three
inches in length. The extremity of this being in
the mouth, the lady’s principal amusement appear-
ed to be in keeping it in constant motion with the
tip of her tongue. This device appeared to strike
some of our Bencdicts as an admirable appendage
to a lady’s mouth, and many, in the absence of
the parties concerned, resolved to introduce the
practice amongst our fair countrywomen—a de-
termination formed under the vulgar prejudice
that Englishwomen talk much, and that they
“love not talking for its use.” These sapient
gentlemen, therefore, imagined that this orna-
ment, by eXercising the tongue, without sound,
would be the means of preventing their super-

TRAFFIC. 279

abundant eloquence. But, as the determination
of married men, when absent from their wives,
amounts to little more than a wish ; and, as none
of our ladies have yet appeared with this ele-
gant appendage, it is supposed that their heroic
and philosophical resolution did not meet with
the approbation of those at home.

On the 15th, whilst completing the examina-
tion of the bay, another party was sent to traffic.
They found a great collection of natives of both
sexes, who, having acquired the most unbounded
confidence, bartered their ornaments and even
their arms without reserve. ,

\Ve could not understand that the Barracouta
had been here: letters were therefore left for her,
when, our boat having returned with seventeen
sheep, and being otherwise well loaded, we pre-
pared to continue our course.

280 MEET THE BARRACOUTA.

CHAPTER XV.

Meet the Barracouta.—The Black Rocks—A Critical Situa-
tion.—Island of Piquefia Banca.—Arrival at Quilimane.—-—
Behaviour of the Governor.—Origin of the Town—The
Slave-Trade. —A Gale. ~-A heavy Sea.

ON the morning of the 16th, we beat out of the
bay in company with the Albatross for Sofala.
During this voyage, we saw numerous whales,
skipjacks, and bonitoes, together with many
smaller fish. The following evening, about six,
we anchored off Sofala, Where we were rejoiced
to find the Barracouta lying in the harbour, and,
shortly after our arrival, Captain Vidal came on
board to report his proceedings.

Twice they approached the beautiful but har-
bourless Kafi'er Coast; the first time, within half
a mile, at a most interesting spot, where two pon-
derous black rocks arose from the water’s edge,
upwards of eighty feet above its surface, exhibit-
ing through one of them the phenomenon of a

THE BLACK ROCKS. 281

natural archway, called by 11s, “ The Hole in the
Wall.” In this arched chasm the surf beat on
the rocks with so much violence as to break fifty
feet from their base, although but little wind was
blowing at the time.

 

The country looked like a large park, varied
with hill and dale; exhibiting at times, through
a luxuriant valley, the distant prospect of blue
mountainous ridges. Upon their second approach
to the coast of Natal, the landscape was equally
beautiful ; clusters of trees, hills, vales, and glens,
composing the foreground; while, in the distance,
divided by a deep valley or chasm, a range of
craggy mountains extended in a parallel direction,
as far as the eye could see. On the 18th of
July, they anchored off the River Quilimane,

282 A CRITICAL SITUATION.

“ when,” says Lieutenant Boteler, “ I left the
vessel in her largest boat to convey Lieutenant
Browne and his party to the town, and to deliver
to the Governor the various official letters rela-
tive to their expedition.

“Through the unfavourable direction of the
wind, and the strong easterly current, we were
carried to leeward of that part of the bar whereon
there appeared to be the least surf; and were at
length driven to the alternative of either pushing
through a phalanx of breakers, or being cast side-
long upon them ; for the wind had subsided, and
the tide so far strengthened, that the oars were
rendered useless, and from the sea and swell that
prevailed, to anchor was impossible. The helm
was accordingly put up, the oars manned, and
the sail set, when, in a few minutes, the boat was
rapidly winging her way through the best chan-
nel that a line of breakers would allow. The
waves at times rose and towered above our stern,
and at others, partially broke in upon us, which
obliged three of the crew to keep constantly bail-
ing, two of them using their hats for this pur-
pose; so critical was our situation, that few enter-
tained any hopes of escape; and Mr. Browne could
not help exclaiming, ‘ What a fate is mine! twice
already have I been shipwrecked ; but, this is the
last time !’

“ Such, however, was not the case, and the ocean
proved kinder to him than the African soil, for,
shortly after this remark, our boat rode bravely
over the remaining breakers, and the danger was

ISLAND or PIQUENA BANCA. 283

passed. Hope ever fondly clings to the future,
and pictures it brighter than the present; so our
friends who were about to leave us gladly looked
upon this escape as a happy presage for their ex-
pedition.

“ ‘ Forbes,’ said Mr. Browne as the last sea sank
under our stern in a harmless sheet of foam, ‘ thus
it will be with us; many a danger will threaten
like that which we have just escaped, but will sub«
side or vanish before it reaches us.’ We anchor-
ed for the night at a short distance up the river,
and the next morning proceeded ,towards Quili-
mane. On our way we passed the small Island of
Piquefia Banca; which, it is said, eighty years
since, was a mud and sand-bank, unembellished
by the slightest appearance of vegetation. But
when, from the accumulated deposit cast up by
the torrents of the river in the rainy season, it
was once elevated above the high water mark, it
quickly became covered with the dark green
mangrove, generating unwholesome vapours from
the putrid vegetable deposit collected round and
retained by their roots.

“ Innumerable hippopotami were basking in the
sun on its shore, rolling like swine in the slimy
mud. The river at its entrance is only one mile
across, but, immediately after, increases conside-
rably. The banks are overgrown with man-
groves, on the usual swampy foundation, but no
living thing was visible, with the exception of a
diminutive species of land-crab, whose subterra-
neous retreats were formed in all directions.

284 ARRIVAL AT QUILIMANE.

“ At the back of this mangrove boundary,
which extends only a short distance, the soil is
partially covered with a layer of sand studded
with a variety of trees, so that we had little dif-
ficulty in procuring fuel, as the shore was strewed
with their bleached trunks, rotting under the
combined influence of age and the sun: many
of these that had previously been drifting about,
or otherwise exposed to the water, were perfo-
rated by worms, which, in their progress, had
coated the sides with a calcareous deposit.”E The
direction of the river was due north until a little
above the Island, when it took a slight turn to
the eastward, then westward, and opened to the
View a distant prospect of the Town of Quili-
mane; its white buildings and extensive grove
of cocoa-nut trees, forming a pleasing contrast to
the gloomy dark green of the mangroves by which
it is surrounded.

“ Upon landing, we proceeded to the Governor’s
house escorted by the master of a Brazilian slaver,
which, with a few others, was at anchor of the
town. This young man, named Henriques, spoke
a little English, and acted as interpreter in our in-
terview with the Governor, Signor Joao Boni-
facio. The official letters were presented, and,
amongst the rest, that of the Governor General
of Mozambique, enjoining Signor Joao Bonifacio
to countenance and assist Lieutenant Browne and

* The floods of' the African rivers frequently bring down the

seeds and germs of trees and vegetables, by which the vegeta-
tion of the interior may in a great measure be known.

BEHAVIOUR or THE GOVERNOR. 285

his party as much as lay in his power. Whether
it was the Governor‘s natural character we could
not determine, but certainly his behaviour and
observations betrayed a repulsive formality and
sarcastic reference to the futility of the expedi-
tion, that at once led the party to imagine he
would not at all promote their success. This was
our general feeling at the time; yet after-reflec-
tion might put a more favourable construction
upon his intentions; still it must be admitted
that any observations alluding to the probable
melancholy termination of the expedition were,
if not unkind, certainly ill-judged. A discoura-
ging remark is at all times unwelcome, but when
conveyed in terms of sarcasm or levity, we are
inclined to think that the speaker is more desi-
rous of our failure than success, and would re-
joice more at the one than regret the other.

“Signor Henriques, the master of the slaver
before mentioned, with a kindness he never ceased
to evince during their sojourn at the town, of-
fered the party the use of his house so long as
they remained, of which hospitality and attention
they thankfully availed themselves. Whenever
Lieutenant Browne’s expedition became the sub-
ject of conversation, Henriques, in a delicate yet
earnest manner, endeavoured to dissuade him from
it; but, finding his entreaties vain, he supplied
him with every information he could collect re-
lative to the countries he was about to visit, and
the best conduct to be pursued for safely travel—
ling through them.

286- ORIGIN or THE TOWN.

Little can be said respecting the history of
Quilimane; but it appears to owe its origin
either to the Arabs, who, when Vasco de Gama
put into this river on his way to the East Indies,
were found settled here in great numbers; or to
the Portuguese, when, about the year 1585, they
penetrated under Francisco Barreta as far as
Manica, in the country of Zambizi, and T ete,
on the river of that name. Under the direction
of the priest, who had been tutor to the young
King of Portugal, Barreta, in the most cruel
and cold-blooded manner, exterminated every
Mohammedan native, and then took possession of
their wealth; but the sins of the early Portu-
guese have been here visited upon many genera-
tions. The climate, poison, and the dagger, are
constantly destroying the present race; and, al-
though in possession of the finest country in the
world, they are entirely dependent upon other
nations, importing all their enjoyments save the
grossest sensuality. To protect the commerce
that was eventually opened by this expedition,
various settlements, forts, and strongholds, were
erected on the banks of the Zambizi and its de-
pendent rivers, to keep in awe the surrounding
savages, who otherwise would have retaliated
upon them for encroaching upon their territory.

In all probability Quilimane, from its commo-
dious situation in a mercantile point of View, soon
became a place of some importance to the Portu-
guese, and a thoroughfare for the produce of their
inland possessions along the Zambizi, which was

THE SLAVE-TRADE. 287

formerly shipped from thence to Mozambique.
The riches of Quilimane consisted, in a trifling
degree, of gold and silver, but principally of grain,
which was produced in such quantities as to
supply Mozambique. But the introduction of the
slave-trade stopped the pursuits of industry, and
changed those places where peace and agriculture
had formerly reigned into the seat of war and
bloodshed. Contending tribes are now constantly
striving to obtain by mutual conflict prisoners as
slaves for sale to the Portuguese, who excite
these wars and fatten on the blood and wretched-
ness they produce. The slave-trade has been a
blight on its prosperity ; for at present Quilimane
and the Portuguese possessions in the whole
colony of the Rios de Senna do not supply them-
selves with suflicient corn for their own con-
sumption.

“ Having seen Lieutenant Browne and his party
comfortably situated, we left Quilimane early the
next morning with the king’s pilot on board, and
in a few hours reached the Barracouta, she having
run nearer in for the purpose of examining the
bar.”

Captain Vidal thought it advisable not to take
the brig into the river, but survey entirely in
the boats, they making a rendezvous of any one of
the Portuguese vessels at anchor off the town. Ac-
cordingly, the morning after Lieut. Boteler’s re-
turn, he proceeded into the river with two boats.

As the afternoon advanced, the clouds began
to lower, the horizon became misty and unde-

288 A HEAVY SEA.

fined, While the general appearance of the heavens
indicated a storm. At sunset every preparation
was made for an approaching gale; the pin-
nace was absent but hourly expected to return;
but as night closed in and the wind and sea
continued to increase, much anxiety was felt for
her safety: soon after dark, and a narrow escape
from being lost upon the bar, she succeeded in
reaching us. During the night the swell became
much more considerable, but it was not until
the ebb-tide that the waves commenced breaking
in heavy rollers,ale two or three of which fell par-
tially over us; still there was nothing that led
us to apprehend danger, until, whilst at breakfast,
one of vast magnitude burst with terrific fury on
our decks, bearing every thing before it, almost
swamping the vessel, and throwing her on her
beam-ends. Two men who were on deck in an
exposed situation were carried off their legs, and
one washed overboard, who would inevitably have
been drowned had not the other, by a spirited
exertion, thrown him a rope, and succeeded in
rescuing him from his perilous situation.

From this time a succession of rollers were
visible for miles around even to the horizon, occa-
sionally breaking upon us with so much violence,

* A roller is a species of wave that moves like a precipitous hill
of water, differing in magnitude, in particular situations from ten
to fifty feet in height, and overwhelming every thing in its
course. They. are observed on all the shores of the Atlantic,
south of 30° north latitude, sometimes rising in a perfect calm,
probably from past gales in distant parts ; but their true cause
is not yet known.

DESPERATE ALTERNATIVE. 289

that we expected every moment to be driven from
our anchors, when nothing could have saved the
vessel, or, in all probability, a soul on board. In
this trying situation we remained for more than
two hours, not daring to move, as we could neither
weather the land on either tack, nor pass the bar
until high water. As the tide rose, the waves
were less furious ; but as there was every appear-
ance of their becoming even worse on the return
of the ebb, Lieutenant Boteler, the commanding
officer on board, considered that the only mode of
escaping inevitable destruction was to take advane
tage of the increased depth and run for the river,
although, from the heavy sea that still prevailed,
it was expected that. the brig must strike on the
bar: but it was suppbsed that even if such were
the case, in all probability she would be washed
over, when, by sinking in smooth and not very
deep water, the greater part of the crew might at
least be saved.

It was a desperate alternative, but the only one;
we therefore slipped our cable, leaving a buoy to
mark its situation, and steered for the bar. As
we approached, the breakers increased in fury:
“ snowy foam and sparkling spray” dazzled the
eye, while the wild roar of the contending billows
burst with majestic but appalling grandeur upon
the ear. Our vessel was tossed upon their frothy
tops, like the sea—bird lifted on the swelling wave;
and upon one vast sheet of foam, that arose like a
snowy mountain behind us, we were borne with
impetuous velocity over the shallowest part of

VOL. I. U

290 HOUSES IN QUILIMANE.

the bar into deep water and safety, when sad
thoughts and anxious looks were quickly ex-
changed for expressions of pleasure and congratu-
lation on escaping from our late dangerous and
almost hopeless situation.

Shortly after we had anchored, Captain Vidal,
who had been alarmed by the appearance of the
weather, came on board, and on the 26th we re-
moved to the anchorage off Quilimane. This
town is built on an unhealthy marsh, to drain
which no efforts appear ever to have been made.
It contains ten houses inhabited by the Portu-
guese, fifteen by the Creoles, and seven by the
merchants from Goa, with innumerable huts for
slaves belonging to the Portuguese, in all amount-
ing to a population of about two thousand eight
hundred persons.

The houses belonging to the whites, (as the
descendants of the Portuguese are called, although
sometimes as black as the negroes themselves,)
are constructed of brick, and faced with tiles ma-
nufactured on the spot from the cla of the river.
They are substantial, and, in tVior three in-
stances, of great size. The gover . .-
with imitation stone, in the Italian style, and 1s
very commodious. The houses generally contain
only one story, the floomixng elevated a little
above the ground to avo " e marshy dampness
and miasma that evaporate from the soil. The
roofs project several feet beyond the walls, and rest
at their termination on a row of pillars, forming a
broad and commodious gallery or verandah, to

   
      

VEGETABLES AND ANIMALS. 291

which, during the heat of the day, the Portu-
guese retire to smoke cigars, or enjoy the refresh-
ing coolness of the breeze. In most of the best
houses, as a substitute for glass, they use the pearl
oyster-shell, the epidermis and outer coat being
first detached, a process which renders it suffi-
ciently transparent for any one inside to distin-
guish objects but not to be seen from without.
The huts of the blacks are of various sizes and
shapes, but more commonly approximate to that
of the English cottage. They are small, and
built of the different species of reed that grow in
the river, frapped neatly together. The roofs are
thatched with the coarse grasses that cover the
country. None have more than one door, which
serves the various purposes of an entrance, not
only for the inhabitants, but for light and air,
and an exit for the smoke, or for part of it;
for the inhabitants are frequently seen rushing
from their gloomy and sooty abodes to escape its
stifling effects. They study no order in their ar-
rangement, but build them promiscuously among
the cocoa-n ‘ and mango trees, which are planted
in avenuefi'allel to one another, the space be-
tween being cultivated with vegetables 01 rice,
the latter, from the nature of the soil, being the

most productive. «
The fruits ale c nuts, mangoes, oranges,

limes, bananas, acajoa-apples, custard-apples, pine-

apples, guavas, and plantains; and the vege-

tables, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, peas and beans,

of different kinds; tomatoes, pumpkins, cucum-
U 2

292 MART ron SLAVES.

bers, rice, millet, maize, different species of pi-
mento, and a small quantity of wheat. But, it
must be understood, that, although these fruits
and vegetables are produced, yet they are not in-
digenous to the soil, the greater portion being
grown in the private gardens of the Portuguese.
The cattle are small, but the asses and pigs are
of respectable dimensions: a few horses had lately
been imported from Brazil. In the vicinity of the
town, lions and tigers are common, and large alli-
gators in the river. Ostriches are unknown, but
elephants abound in the interior, as also buffa-
loes, and deer of various species. Cameleons are
held ingreat dread, not only by the negroes but
by the Canareens, who consider death as the in-
evitable consequence of their bite; and, when
SOme of our people handled one to convince them
of their error, they expressed the utmost astonish-
ment and dismay, and very confidently assured
them that they had but a few minutes to live.
Quilimane is now the greatest mart for slaves
on the east coast. They are purchased with blue
dungaree, coloured cloths, arms, gunpowder, brass
and pewter, red coloured beads in imitation of
coral, cutlery, and various other articles. The
free blacks of the country and banyans carry on
the trade inland for the merchants; and the ar-
rival of one of these people among the tribes with
his pedlar’s stock is the signal for general warfare,
when the weak become victims to the strong.
Great faith is kept towards these mercantile
agents who ale never plundered unless they are
guilty of some unlawful act; then the confisca-

NATIVE MARRIAGE. 293

tion of the whole, or part of their goods, is the
penalty.

Some time since, a Creole Portuguese, whilst
employed as an agent for slaves in the country,
commenced an amour with the wife of one of
the natives; when the husband discovered it, he
plundered the offender of every thing he pos-
sessed.

From eleven to fourteen slave-vessels come an-
nually from Rio J aneiro to this place, and return
with from four to five hundred slaves each on an
average. It is true, they are regulated by law as
to the number that they shall respectively convey,
but how little is the alleviation to the wretched
slave, when that law allows a brig of three hun-
dred tons to carry upwards of seven hundred full
grown males and females ! i

To contain the slaves collected for sale, every
Portuguese house has an extensive yard, or enclo-
sure, called a ‘Barracon, generally surrounded by a
lofty brick—wall, on the inside of which a shed is
erected for their accommodation. At the back
entrance of the slave—yard of the Governor’s house
were mounted the only pieces of artillery in the
place, which, with about sixty soldiers and a small
number of militia, form its strength. We here
witnessed the celebration of a native marriage,
the officiating priestess being an old Portuguese
creole. The ceremony consisted in placing the
bridegroom on some sticks over a well, and pour-
ing a large quantity of the water in a profuse
shower over his head, while the spectators sang
and danced to the wild notes of the cassanga

294 ' A BEREAVED MOTHER.

accompanying their distorted and violent gestures
with loud clapping of hands. This wedding was
». numerously attended by the natives, especially
the young girls.

Upon one occasion passing a negro hut, our
attention was attracted by the loud sobbing of
a female, and the mournful cadence of her voice.
On entering to ascertain the cause, we discovered
that it was a mother wailing over the body of her
infant child, who had died that morning. This
lamentation sometimes lasts nearly two months,
during which time they barely take sufficient nou-
rishment to support life, and perform no labour
whatever, leaving the most trivial domestic duties
to their neighbours, who, in return for these ser-
vices, are supplied with abundance of food. It is
common to see one of these women at the most
laborious employment, with her infant slung on
her back; and, such is the force of habit, it sleeps
as soundly there as the most fostered child in the
arms of its nurse.

Polygamy is universal, some of the men having
as many as six wives, or slaves; for the work
they do and the treatment they receive render the
latter term more applicable. On the banks of a
small stream, bounding the eastern quarter of the
town, a number of human skulls were observed
mouldering and bleaching in the sun; this uno
feeling exposure of the remains of the dead ori-
ginates from_ a total indifference amongst the
blacks as to the disposal after death of those who,
perhaps, during their life-time were the objects
of their fondest affection. They are thrown un—

TATTOOING.—COSTU ME. 295

ceremoniously into a hole, or consigned to the
river, by the stream of which they are either car-
ried to sea, or left on its muddy banks, there to
lie until the birds or alligators devour the decay-
ing flesh.

The practice of tattooing is here universal,
and, as each tribe has its distinguishing mark, a
slave—dealer can at first sight tell to which par-
ticular one his victim belongs. They are gene-
rally marked in irregular devices on various parts
of the body and face, and, as the operation is ‘
painful, it requires some degree of fortitude to un-
dergo it ; large gashes are cut, and the flesh made
to protrude from the wound by constant pinch-
ing and repeated irritation of the lacerated part:
many days elapse before this torment is over, and
weeks before the wound is perfectly healed. The
hair is worn in a variety of ways, some shaving it
entirely off, others partially, some but one side,
others at the back, and many in alternate ridges
to the forehead, as if done by a small plough. V

The men are of the middle size, and ill-formed,
with broad hips, flat noses, woolly hair, and thick
lips. They appear to pay little attention to the
cleanliness of their persons; yet their huts, al-
though dingy from the smoke, are otherwise kept
in the neatest order. A portion of coarse cloth
merely sufficient to cover their nakedness consti-
tutes the clothing of all except the chiefs, who in-
dulge in a larger supply and of better quality,
wearing it around them like a mantle, with one
end thrown over their shoulders, often in a grace-
ful and becoming manner. They use but few

296 , ' MEDICAL TREATMENT.

ornaments, except bangles of brass and iron, to
which they are particularly attached, having some-
times twenty or thirty on each leg.

But the most remarkable as well as hideous
custom among the blacks at Quilimane is that of
perforating the upper lip with so large a hole that
the teeth are in many cases exposed through the
gash. To prevent the aperture from closing, it is
generally kept distended by means of broad rings
of brass. This custom, we were informed, was
peculiar to only two tribes, the Macquilans, who
live by the seashore between Quilimane and Mo-
zambique; and the Majowjies who. dwell north of
Senna ; but, as before—mentioned, we had observed
the same practice (but on a smaller szale, and con-
fined only to the women) at one of the Bazaruta
Islands.

The climate of Quilimane, from the swampy
' situation of the town, is highly prejudicial to
health ; some seasons are much worse than others,
yet many of the Portuguese had resided here from
ten to twenty years, although their sickly appear-
ance and tottering gait sufficiently indicated the '
slender thread on which their existence hung.
They condemn altogether the treatment adopted
by European surgeons, and prefer either that pur-
sued by the oldest inhabitants amongst their
countrymen, or that of the blacks. Their favour-
ite medicines are Peruvian bark, Columbo root,
rhubarb, and the Marrello pill, which is formed
by a mixture‘of the first and last; but they never
bleed or administer mercury in any shape.

ANCHOR RECOVERED. 297

CHAPTER XVI.

Anchor recovered.—Bazaruta Islands.—Inhamban.—-—A rejoic-
ing—Trade at Inhamban.—-Courage of the Natives.- Dance
of VVomen.—A procession.—An oration.—A boat lost.—
Shells.—Musjgal Instruments—Arrival at Sofala.—- The
Governor’s Deputy.—Ignorant Pilot.-His despondency.—-
Murderous attempt.—- Dr. Guland’s wound.— Recover the
Guns.

ON the 8th of August, having completed a
survey of the river up to the town and the bar
at its mouth, together with the dangerous road-
stead, we proceeded in search of the anchor which
we were obliged to leave during the gale on
the 23rd of July. We knew its situation from
our observations, easily resumed by means of a
quadrant, and the objects on shore used in the
survey. We dropped our anchor immediately
above the one we had lost, when it was very
shortly found. Our boatswain, a true seaman of
the old school, who from the age of six years
had spent his life in the service, after witnessing
the means used to discover the situation of the

298 BAZARUTA ISLANDS.

lost anchor, was observed buried in profmmd
thought. At length, having apparently brought
his lucubrations to a satisfactory termination, he
exclaimed with a swing of the arm and squirt of
tobacco—“ Damme if ever I heard of an anchor
being picked up with a quadrant afore: I now
see it well enough; them ’ere things are of more
use nor one !”

It would be unjust not to mention that, after,
the melancholy catastrophe by which we lost the
services of our midshipmen on the west coast of I
Madagascar, the same boatswain, Mr. VVheatley,
made himself acquainted with the use of this in-
strument, and during the remainder of the voyage
rendered himself of great service in the practice of
surveying.

As soon as our anchor was procured we made
sail for the river Inhamban, and on the 14th ar-
rived off the Bazaruta Islands, when Lieutenant
Boteler was sent on shore to ascertain whether the
Leven was, or had been, there. As he approached
the beach, four of the natives were observed mo-
tioning where they should land and preparing to
receive them; but afterwards, becoming fearful,
they retreated to a short distance from the beach
to await their arrival.

The Lieutenant landed with a rifle in his hand,
followed by three of the crew armed with mus-
kets; but this formidable array, which precaution
dictated, caused them again to retreat. The party,
therefore, laid down their arms, and slowly fol—
lowed, while the natives appeared by their gestures

INHAMBAN. A 299

to be consulting with each other whether they
should communicate; it was, however, finally de-
termined in the affirmative, when they allowed
therrrkselves to be overtaken. Lieutenant Boteler
imitated strictly their form of salutation, which
consisted in a slight inclination of the body, one
arm being held up straight over the head and the
other resting on the breast, then bringing both
down with a quick motion to the thighs, as a
sentry in coming to “attention,” but with less
precision and formality.

In answer to the signs made, they seemed to
imply that no vessel had been there, but Lieu-
tenant Boteler thought it advisable to walk some
distance round the island in order to assure him-
self that the Leven was not in the neighbourhood.
They were very solicitous for him to visit their
Village, assuring him that they had abundance of
goats to sell and plenty of fresh water; but, as his
time would not admit of this delay, he returned
on board.

On the 18th we arrived off the river Inhamban,
where we anchored while Lieutenant Boteler re-
paired to the town to announce our arrival to the
Governor and demand a pilot. He says, “ For a .
long time whilst approaching the shore, I heard
beating of drums, firing, and loud exclamations as
of people rejoicing ; and when I came nearer per-
ceived about one hundred and fifty soldiers, some
dressed like those of Mozambique, marchng with
their colours flying and drums beating, followed
by many Portuguese, and a multitude of blacks;

300 A REJOICING.

who were dancing, singing, whooping, and per-
forming a variety of wild cries and fantastic evo-
lutions. ‘

“ In the distance was a venerable black, who
admirably personified the patriarch of the town;
he was mounted on the shoulders of a negress of
Amazonian form, and surrounded by a posse of
men, women, and children, exercising their lungs
and legs with as good an effect as the other party.
I repaired to the porch of the Governor’s yard,
and was conducted to his presence by a Canareen
officer, who was waiting my arrival. I found
the Governor in full dress, seated at a table placed
in a tent under the shade of a solitary tree of
gigantic dimensions, adorning the upper end of a
place like the “Champ de l‘Iars;” in the front
of this were drawn up a line of soldiers, and at
the lower end three small field-pieces were in-
spiring by their constant report the profoundest
awe and respect amongst the motley spectators.

“ The routine of the day for which the prepara-
tions were made, appeared about to commence
as I entered and presented to the Governor the
circular letter of the General at Mozambique;
which having read, he expressed his regret that
he could not immediately attend to me; but
requested I would wait until the ceremony was
over; adding at the same time that, as a stranger,
he had no doubt it would afford me amusement.
I acCordingly left him, and soon among the holi—
day captains and colonels met with one who

TRADE AT INHAMBAN. 301

could Speak a little French, from whom I learnt
the following particulars.

“ Inhamban is by no means so rich as Quilimane,
as from the small extent of its river it has not the
same facilities for procuring slaves, the source of
wealth to the latter place; those they do obtain are
the spoils of war amongst the petty tribes, who,
were it not for the market they thus find for their
prisoners, would in all likelihood remain in peace
and amity with each other, and probably be con-
nected by bonds of mutual interest. The trade of
Inhamban consists principally in ivory. and bees’-
wax, about one hundred thousand pounds of the
former being annually conveyed to Mozambique.
This article is obtained from the natives for blue
dungaree, fishhooks, needles, &c.; and so highly
do they prize the last of these, that one of our
seamen for a single needle procured two full-
grown fowls.

“ The natives about Inhamban are entirely in-
dependent of the Portuguese, and, although they
are ready to traffic with them, will not allow them
to advance any distance into the interior of their
country. This spirit, ever watchful of any attempt
to subjugate them, leads to continual hostilities, in
which the natives suffer severely ; yet such is their
determined courage, that the conflict always tends
to establish them more firmly in their indepen-
dence. On account of these wars, the soldiers
composing the force kept at Inhamban are in a
much better state of discipline, and more nu-

302 COURAGE or THE NATIVES.

merous, than at any of their other stations upon
this coast. The arms used by the savages consist
of spears, assagayes, and bows and arrows; the
latter being dipped in a vegetable poison that,
when fresh, is highly active and fatal; but in
time it loses its effects, in a great measure, so
that among the many wounded few eventually
die.

“ Notwithstanding this objection on the part of
the natives to the Portuguese entering their ter-
ritory, still they never attempt, excepting when
at war, to intercept the periodical couriers, who
pass unmolested overland between Sofala, In-
hamban, and Delagoa; and, considering the na-
ture of the country, with great dispatch. Our old
acquaintance, the Zoolos, were well known here
under the name of Vatwahs, and were describ-
ed as a marauding banditti, leading a life of con-
stant warfare with those around, and always mak-
ing their attacks at night, or when they expected
the least resistance; but it appeared they seldom
approached Inhamban, for the natives are too war—
like to be trespassed upon with impunity, espe-
cially one tribe, who never wait to be attacked;
but, whenever the Vatwahs come near their
country, they sally forth in great force, and ge-
nerally come off victorious, selling the prisoners
they take as slaves to the Portuguese.

“ The River Inhamban, although easy of ac—
cess, and affording a superb harbour, is scarcely
navigable for a ship beyond the town, eight miles
from the entrance, and, five further, not even

DANCE OF WOMEN. 303

for boats. The Portuguese population, exclusive
of the military, was only twenty-five, but the
coloured inhabitants were very numerous. My
obliging and intelligent friend then informed me
that the ceremony about taking place was on
account of an annual visit paid by all the neigh-
bouring chiefs and kings to the Governor; when
they discussed affairs relative to their commerce,
and stated their grievances. But our conversa-
tion was interrupted by the sounds of a kind
of kettle-drum and loud whoopings; a dance
then commenced, and shortly afterwards a wo-
man from the crowd appeared in front of the
tent; her wool shaved so as to represent va-
rious figures and clotted with red pomade; her
ankles, wrists, and neck encircled with beads and
brass bangles; while around her waist hung a
species of plaid. In one hand she held a shield
made of hide, and in the other a spear. The dance
commenced by flourishing these weapons in the
most warlike and savage manner about her head;
she then directed her steps from one line of the
soldiers to the other, exhibiting in her progress
the most wild and extravagant gestures; several
more women then accompanied her, but they
had neither shield nor spear, although their other
ornaments were similar. Many of these perfor—
mers were elegant figures, a little above the
middle size, while their features, although of the
darkest hue, were in many instances pleasing and
expressive. ‘

“ The chiefs and kings next appeared, arrayed in

304 A PROCESSION.

long red cloth robes, and night-caps of the same
colour 011 their heads, which they had just receiv-
ed from the Portuguese governor. They were
all aged and intelligent-looking men, and gene-
rally of superior stature. Around them was a
concourse of negroes, many dancing with the em-
blem of their commerce, an elephant’s tusk, in
their hands, which they flourished in a graceful
manner, keeping exact time to the wild notes of
the music. A line of warriors, or young chiefs,
closed the procession, dressed in the following
martial and becoming costume: a large plume
of black ostrich-feathers was fixed on one side of
the head, the ends drooping elegantly towards
the opposite shoulder, like the plume of the High-
land cap, and on the other a double row of large
polished buttons; over the left shoulder was
carefully suspended a small black tube of hide,
about eighteen inches long, and tastefully orna-
mented; this was used as a quiver, but was then
without arrows, which, with the unstrung bow,
were emblematic of the peaceful nature of their
visit. On their backs, a little below the shoulder,
was a second tuft of ostrich-feathers in the form
of a kilt. The remainder of their dress consist-
ed of a piece of broad-striped dungaree about
the loins, leaching nearly down to the knee, with
numerous bangles encircling the wrists and an-
kles. The omaments commonly worn by those of
inferior rank were a few beads around the neck,
and a piece of dungaree over the loins. The
Governor, with a guard behind him, and his nu-

AN ORATION. 305

merous staff, (for at all fétes every Portuguese,
and even their black descendants, appear as of-
ficers,) received the chiefs standing at his table:
as they entered, they took their seats upon the
mats on either side, excepting three who had
speeches to deliver; these sat in the middle, op-
posite to the Governor; a Portuguese militia
officer acting as interpreter,

“ The eldest of these orators commenced, and,
I dare' say, judging from the noisy plaudits of
the other chiefs, made a very impressive and elo-
quent harangue; the first part he delivered sit-
ting, but soon, growing warm and impressed with
his subject, he arose, and towards the conclusion
of his oration became quite theatrical; affording
a pleasing example of the lively energy of age,
when brought into action by the stimulus of po-
pular applause. This old man’s speech lasted for
nearly half an hour, when the others continued
for some time in a similar strain; but the atten-
tion of these sable senators was evidently occu—
pied more earnestly in watching a small door at
the back of the booth, than in listening to the
orators. «

“ This mystery was soon cleared up, for, after
the Governor had, through the interpreter, deli—
vered his short yet complimentary speech, a num-
ber of slaves entered by this attractive door, each
bending beneath the weight of a large tin dish
containing some pounds of boiled beef and rice.
No unbecoming modesty was visible in their be-
haviour upon this occasion; not more at least

VOL. I. X

306 A BOAT LOST.

than is generally displayed by well-bred pigs,
when the delectable wash is put into the trough
for their regalement. Leaving them in the en-
joyment of their mess, I repaired with the Go-
vernor to his house ; I found him a gentleman of
polite manners, and possessing a military frankness
which convinced me that the attentions he offered
were the emanations of a kind disposition and not
mere official compliments. But my time was
short, and I was soon obliged to leave him and
return on board.”

We entered the river on the 20th, and were
employed a fortnight in its survey: it required
great precaution to trace the bar, as in many parts,
even where there was a depth of thirty feet, the
rollers would arise at times so suddenly, and
break with so much violence, that no boat could
possibly exist. This was fatally exemplified dur-
ing our stay by one belonging to a Portuguese
brig, which was lost, and out of the five men
three perished; the survivors were saved by the
merest accident. A succession of rollers unex—
pectedly arose, the first overturned the boat, and
the succeeding ones washed or rather beat them
on shore, where they were left by the ebbing tide
in a state of total insensibility, from which they
were recovered only by the humane attention of
some natives.

One of our boats very nearly experienced a
similar fate; she was forced by the velocity of
the ebbing tide amongst the breakers, and, as a
last resource, was obliged to push through them ;

SHELLS. 307

in doing which one sea passed so close to her
stern as to break an oar placed there for the
purpose of steerinox This spot offered an im-
mense variety of shells, of the most delicate
form and brilliant colours; but the nature of
our service almost precluded us from forming
any collection, though, could we have done so, it
would have been of great value. The good-
natured Governor’s conehologieal exhibition af-
forded us much amusement. In the course of
a conversation with some of our officers, an allu-
sion was made to the beautiful shells that
abounded in the river. “ Well, stop a little,”
exclaimed the Governor, “ and you shall see what
I have got.” He stepped out of the room, and
shortly returned with a canvass bag, which he
shook with much complacency while exclaiming,
“ Here ’5 for you!” and forthwith deposited the
contents on the table, consisting of an assemblage
of the most delicately-formed shells, not one of
which was in a perfect state.

Inhamban is considered the most healthy set-
tlement the Portuguese possess upon the coast;
but the buildings are by no means equal in style
to those of Quilimane, although in cleanliness
they are far superior. Flamingoes are so nume-
rous in the river that every shoal is covered with
them, looking at a distance like large variegat-
ed plains, and upon a nearer approach resem-
bling files of soldiers: when the sun was shining
upon them, nothing could surpass the beauty of
their brilliant and dazzling appearance.

x 2

308 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.

Among the musical instruments of Inham-
ban the marimbah holds the first place: it is
composed of ten pieces of hard wood suspended
in a frame, each being placed opposite to a hole in
a small calabash ; these pieces of wood, on being
struck by sticks with knobs of India rubber at
the end, produce a pleasing sound, very similar to
that of the harmonicon. The cassanga is also a
great favourite. We met with it everywhere on
the coast; Whereas the marimbah was only seen
at Inhamban, Quilimane, and Delagoa; at»which
places it is termed tabbelah. The cassanga con-
sists of a number of small pieces of iron, attached
at one end to a hollow box, and resting on a

bridge; they are of various lengths, in order to
' produce the different notes, and are played by the
thumb and fingers.

We were at a party of the Governor’s, who
entertained us in the most kind and hospitable
manner; after supper the tocador (performer on
the marimbah,) was summoned. He entered with
his instrument, attended by two men, and five or
six boys as dancers: one of the men danced
in the European style, and far surpassed in grace
any thing of the kind we had ever seen. The
native dance was a most hideous exhibition, as
the principal movements consisted in violently
shaking the shoulders, protruding the stomach,
drawing back the elbows, bending the knees,
throwing the face into contortions, and stealing
over the ground with a shuffling, mincing step.

Independently of the rite peculiar to the Jews,

ARRIVAL AT SOFALA. 309

and generally adopted amongst the better sort of
Negroes on the coast, many at Inhamban ab—
stain entirely from pork; and of all insulting
terms that of pig is deemed the most opprobrious.

We left the river on the 3rd of September,
and the next day sailed for Sofala, where, after
having surveyed part of the intermediate coast,
we arrived on the 11th, and anchored at a short
distance outside the bar.

“ The reception I met with,” says Lieut. B0-
teler, “' upon landing to announce our arrival and
the object of our voyage to the Governor, afford-
ed a strong yet laughable proof of the ignorance
of the Canareens and Creole Portuguese. As the
boat passed along shore towards the landing-
place, a hurried assemblage of soldiers and natives
took place on the beach; which, headed by an
officer, kept pace with us at double-quick time
until we landed. The soldiers were armed with
muskets, which had no flints; the natives, with
bows and arrows, spears, assagayes, clubs, and
knives. I went up to‘ the oflicer, and asked for
the Governor; he informed me that he was ab-
sent in the country, but that his deputy, the Ma-
jor, was waiting to receive me.

“ The officer led the way, when I followed, and
called to the Inidshipman and interpreter to come
after me; this, however, was objected to, on the
ground that it was a regulation of the port that,
on the arrival of a strange boat, no person was
allowed to leave her but the officer. Perceiving
that this was only a foolish suspicion of our in-

310 THE GOVERNOR’S DEPUTY.

tentions, I insisted upon their accompanying me.
The soldiers had divided, some escorting me, and
the rest remaining by the boat.

“ As this arrangement showed that I was guard-
ed, I produced the Governor of Mozambique’s
letter, enjoining those under him in the various
ports belonging to the Portuguese to render us
every assistance we might require for the further—
ance of our undertaking ; at the same time I pro-
tested against the insult thus offered to me, and
refused to proceed, charging the officer with the
consequences unless the soldiers were sent off.
This determination induced him to comply with
my wishes, when I shortly arrived at the Gover-
nor’s house, Where I found his deputy (a Creole
Portuguese) surrounded by officers of different
shades, ready to receive me. I produced the
above letter, but finding the Major did not con-
sider himself authorized to open it, I did so
for him; but as he then thought it improper for
him to read it, I did that also. But all would
not do; the panic had spread, and, in fearful con-
sultation, it was agreed that every thing should
remain in statu qua until the Governor returned.
I accordingly repaired on board.

“ As soon as the interview was over, an ex-
press was sent to the Governor, who arrived at
the fort in about an hour, and, vexed at the folly
and fears of his officers, fired two guns with a
View to recall the boat, and early next morning
sent a pilot to bring the vessel in, and to offer
the Captain any further assistance it was in his

IGNOltANT PILOT. 311

power to give. This boat I met whilst going on
shore the following day, with a letter of remon-
strance from Captain Vidal to the Governor, re-
specting my over-night’s reception. I found no
guard as on my first landing, but two officers
were waiting the arrival of the boat on the beach.
With them I repaired to the Governor, Whom I
found surrounded by his staff, and delivered my
letter, when he expressed great anger and regret
at the reception I had met with from his deputy,
and with a letter to this effect I returned on
board.”

The pilot was a Canareen, of a mulatto caste,
and appeared of a very mild and courteous dispo-
sition. Before entering the river, he was furnished
with a boat, that he might the more correctly
ascertain the channel through which he intended
to take us. VVe weighed in the afternoon, and pro-
ceeded towards the river, with a boat sounding
ahead, and notifying by signals the depth of water,
which gradually decreased to fifteen feet; but, as
the pilot continued to assert that all was right,
and as the boat did not make any sign to the con—
trary, we continued our course; when, just as the
latter had informed us of our danger, we ground-
ed, and remained immoveable for some time : then,
as the sea got up, we were struck with so much
violence, as to be in momentary apprehension of
the masts falling overboard. For thirty-three
hours, notwithstanding every effort—starting our
water, heaving our guns into the sea, and laying
out anchors-~ we could not get off, and at times

312 ms DESPONDENCY.

the ship laboured so much, that we feared all
our attempts to save her would prove abortive;
and nothing but the continuance of fair weather,
could have enabled us to obtain the success
which, after constant and anxious exertions, we
did, whe’, to the great and loudly-expressed satis-
faction of all, she once more floated, and we stood
out for deeper water.

Since this display of his unpardonable igno-
rance and folly, the pilot had become rather me-
lancholy, and whilst at dinner refused every thing
that was offered to him ; but, with his hand in a
praying posture, commenced entreating that we
would intercede for his life, which he obstinately
persisted in believing was to be forfeited. The
surgeon, (Dr. Guland) with the humane inten-
tion of removing the extraordinary suspicions
that harassed his mind, showed him great atten-
tion, and three or four times prevailed upon him
to take Wine; thinking that its effects might
banish these gloomy ideas. It would have been
supposed that, had this wretch entertained designs
against the life of any person on board, he would
at least have spared him who thus kindly interest-
ed himself to remove the miserable impressions
under which he laboured; yet, by some strange
inconsistency in human nature, he was marked
for the first victim.

After dinner the doctor and master (Mr. Old-
hall) were sitting together on the poop in con-
versation, the pilot standing near them, apparently
in deep thought; they had remained thus for

MURDEROUS ATTEMPT. 313

some little time, when, suddenly turning towards
the doctor, he made some hasty observation, which
that gentleman not clearly understanding, an-
swered “ Si,” when in an instant the villain rushed
upon him, drew a knife from his breast, and thrust-
ing him back with one hand, stabbed him deeply
with the other just below the heart; he did not
pause here, but thinking he had accomplished his
murderous object upon this victim, he turned
with the same deadly intent upon the master,
~ striking at him a furious and well-directed blow.
The result would in all probability have proved
fatal, had not Mr. Oldhall anticipated his inten-
tion, and, having no time to arrest the blow, thrown
himself back, and received it in a slanting direc-
tion. It however cut his trowsers across, and
struck one button from his waistcoat. The sur-
geon, who was of an athletic frame, as soon as
he felt that he was wounded, sprang up, and,
assisted by the Master, before the assassin had time
to repeat his blow, threw him from the poop,
when by a simultaneous rush of the seamen he
was secured before he could fully accomplish
his bloody designs.

To such a state of frenzy had this murderous
ruflian brought himself, that he foamed at the
mouth with rage, and, when seized, appeared
under the influence of insanity, gnashing his teeth,
and attempting to strike with his feet those who
held him. Both his legs were placed in irons and
his arms pinioned, in which situation he remained
motionless all night; it was supposed at the time

314 on. GULAND’S WOUND.

from insensibility, but it afterwards was found
to proceed from a gloomy sullenness, for what-
ever took place at that period he minutely related.
As soon as the stimulus from exertion had passed,
Dr. Guland became faint, and retired to his
bed: from the distressing symptoms that took
place, the depth of the wound (four inches), and
the dangerous direction of the knife, he fully
anticipated a fatal termination. A shortness of
breath ensued, with an excruciating pain in the
region of the heart, so that he could not remain
in any other than a sitting posture. Syncope was
fast supervening, when, no assistant—surgeon being
on board, he bled himself, and happily experienced
from it immediate relief; in fact, so great and
sudden a change took place in the symptoms, that
the following morning he considered his recovery
as almost certain; no fever ensued, the wound
healed rapidly, and in twelve days he was perfectly
recovered.

The pilot in the mean time was kept in irons
and strictly guarded: when he was examined as to
his motive for committing the act, he alleged that
the surgeon had 'several times informed him that
he was to be hanged; and when for the last time
he enquired on the poop whether such was to be
the case, and received an answer in the affirmative,
he determined not to die unrevenged, and for the
act he had committed he was willing to suffer. He
strenuously denied any intention of attacking the
master, and stated that the blow which struck
him was meant as a second for the surgeon. To

RECOVER THE GUNS. 315

dwell longer on the particulars of this wretched
man’s conduct is unnecessary; he continued to the
last to glory in the act he had committed, and to
lament in strong terms that his blade had not
been more successful.

On the 16th, by means of our pinnace, we re-
covered the guns which we were obliged to cast
overboard when ashore, and next day entered
the river, when Captain Vidal visited the Gover-
nor. In the evening we were all agreeably sur-
prised by seeing the Leven enter the river,
after having been parted from her nearly three
months.

316 ISLANDS 01" BOENE AND CIIULUWAN.

CHAPTER XVII.

Islands of Boene and Chuluwun.—Rivers of Eastern Africa.
—Port of Sofala.——Dr. Cowan.—Early Navigators.-—Com-
mandants ot‘ Factories.-—VVhales.—Convivial 1izards.—An
earthquake.~—Sea-birds.———Joys of civilization.—Remarkable
meteor.—Nava] discipline.-—A military officer arrested. --—
Survey of coast above Zanzibar.—Arrival at Muskat.—The
town.

The following are the only particulars we could
obtain of the coast between the Bazaruta Islands
and Sofala.

A small well-wooded uninhabited island called
Boene is situated about seven leagues t0 the
southward of Sofala, but the mud creek which
separates it from the main is only covered at high
water. About five leagues from this is another
island called Chuluwan, sixteen miles in length,
with a salt creek almost dividing it in two, open-
ing into the small channel that separates it from
the main land.

The River Savey, or Sabia, is almost five leagues
from Chuluwan, or Holy Island, the country
northward of which is called Marhonga; on its
southward entrance is the post of Mambon y, where

RIVERS OF EASTERN AFRICA. 317

a Portuguese serjeant and six men are stationed:
this appeared to be the only post subordinate to
Sofala, but their communication by land is much
interrupted by the tribe called Lindeens, who,
it appeared, had almost exterminated the original
inhabitants, and entirely overrun and laid waste
the intermediate country.

The mouth of the Savey is narrow, with very
little water, yet it is said to be a large river in the
interior, having a common source with the Zam-
bizi, and bounding the country called Monica on
the west. Between the River Savey and the Ba-
zaruta Islands the coast is called Buok, where
is the great Bay of Maroonone, into which the
Gawooro empties itself. This last river is hard-
ly navigable for boats at its entrance, but be-
comes a large and superb river in the interior.
It is stated to be a branch of the King George
River, which falls into Delagoa Bay: but there
appears to have been a particular fancy amongst
the old Portuguese geographers for tracing all the
great rivers of Africa to the same source in the
“ hIountains of the Moon ;” from which source
it has been seriously affirmed, even in these days,
that the Nile, the Niger, the Zaire, the Orange,
the Great Fish, the Espirito Santo, or King
George, and its twenty branches, from the Ma-
poota to the Gawooro, the Zambizi by its va-
rious names from the Savey to Quilimane, forty
more as far as the Ravooma near Cape Delgado,
and numerous others thence to Babelmandel, have
each had their birth assigned to the Nile or the

318 PORT OF SOFALA.

Zambizi; all which stories may have as good a
foundation as the geography of the mountains in
the moon, if the term geography will bear an ap-
plication to that planet.

At Chuluwan and near Maroonone are seve-
ral remains of stone buildings, said to be Arabic
edifices erected before the Portugueseconquests.
Lieutenant R. Owen, in the Albatross, traced this
coast, which to navigators may be considered the
most dangerous of all Eastern Africa.

The port of Sofala, its castle, its town, in short
every thing relating to it, had excited the strongest
interest amongst us ; in olden time, it was the Ophir
of Solomon,* whence his fleets returned laden
with “gold, almug trees, and precious stones ;”
the spot whither the early but venturous Phoeni-
cian navigators steered their cumbrous barks, and
where, in later years, Albuquerque and the last
heroes of the Portuguese race had distinguished
themselves.

With all these claims upon the recollection, it
was with much curiosity that we looked forward
to our arrival at Sofala, and with much disappoint-
ment at the total failure of our expectations. In-

* It appears to have escaped the numerous inquirers into the
truth of this being the Ophir of Scripture, that the Arab name for
Sofala was Zof'ar or Zofaal. ‘The great similarity between these
sounds must be considered as a convincing, if not decisive,
proof that the Ophir of Solomon and the Zofar of the Arabs
are one and the same place, especially as the license in our
translation of Oriental orthography offers no obstacle to error
or guide to truth.

SOFALA.—-~DR. COWAN. 319

stead of what the fancy pictured, remains of past
grandeur and opulence, frowning in decay and
falling gradually to dust, we found but a paltry
fort and a few miserable mud—huts, the almost
deserted abode of poverty and vice.

But not only here, every place in Africa and
India subject to the Portuguese has withered
beneath the iron hand of oppression. Lust and
avarice are their idols, and never gods had more
devoted worshippers.‘

In a large shallow bay, immediately to the north-
ward of Sofala, IS the estuary of the river Boozy,
in some maps improperly styled J arra. This bay
is called Blassangzany, and is the place where, in
1810, the Racehorse, commanded by Captain
William Fisher, got on shore, whilst in search of
Sofala, to land Mr. Salt. This gentleman’s object
was to institute some inquiries into the fate of
Dr. Cowan and his party, who had left the Cape
to proceed to Mozambique through the interior
of the country.

It may here be observed, that all the accounts
we could obtain, both at Inhamban and Sofala,
respecting this undertaking, tended clearly to
prove that they were massacred by the natives
within twelve days’ journey of their destination;
and it is but justice to the Portuguese authorities to
contradict the widely-spread report that the murder
of these travellers resulted from their policy and
at their instigation: whilst the truth is, that they
have scarcely any influence beyond their guns,

320 EARLY NAVIGATORS.

and knew nothing of the enterprise until they
heard of its melancholy termination. It was to
this place that the Portuguese researches extended
(by the Red Sea and north-east coast,) before they
succeeded in their voyage round the Cape of
Good Hope.

Peter Cavilgony, or Pedroa de Cavilhao, visited
Sofala about 1480, and transmitted his description
to Portugal. On the other hand, the voyage of
Bartholomew Diaz, who reached Cape Padre—10,
seemed to leave little to be accomplished by Vasco
de Gama, who was, by his own account, so well
aware of the shallowness of the coast in the neigh-
bourhood of Sofala, that he ran past it and en-
tered the Zambizi at Quilemane, called by him
the “ River of Good Signs,” and which he found
inhabited by white Arabs. The fort, which the
Portuguese say was built in 1508, is very small,
in the true Moorish style, and surmounted by
thirteen honey-combed guns of different calibres,
the largest not being more than a six-pounder.

The gate is shut every evening at seven o’clock,
and the garrison mustered. The incessant chal-
lenging of the sentinels in still nights has a
pleasing effect, but much amused our men, who
attributed it only to their fears. The beasts of
prey are said to approach the walls of this fort,
and to pass through the villages almost every night,
in consequence of which, as our officers were fre-
quently on shore to observe the altitudes of the
stars, they 'were particularly directed to be on their

COMMANDANTS 0F FACTORIES. 321

guard, but they never saw or heard any signs of
such visiters.

The commandants of all the smaller Portu-
guese factories are the principal and frequently
the only merchants in the place, so that all sup-
plies must be obtained through them. Our purser,
in contracting with this Commandant for stock,
appeared not to have been over-delicate in his
method of bargaining for bullocks; in conse-
quence of which we had nearly gone without any
supply whatever. Upon referring, however, to
our letters from London, Lisbon, and Mozam-
bique, he sent us, without charge, ten small bul-
locks; we nevertheless paid him their full value
in groceries and other articles, with many compli-
ments for his civility and attention. The circum-
stance of the pilot running the Barracouta on shore
gave him much pain; and he dined on board two
or three times with Captains Owen and Vidal, to
inquire into the particulars of his attempt upon the
life of Dr. Guland, in order to institute a criminal
process against him. Amongst the officers de-
puted for this purpose were the Colonel J 210 J ulioa
de Sylva and the surgeon, who very gravely re-
quested Dr. Guland to allow him, as a necessary
part of the judicial process, to measure by a probe
the precise depth of the wound, which could
scarcely have escaped some of the vital organs a
hair’s breadth. The doctor received the proposi-
tion with due gravity, but declined submitting to
the probe, although the assassin should escape for

VOL. I. Y

322 WHALES.

want of this part of the evidence; and escape he
certainly did, but whether on this account, or that
even murder amongst the Portuguese is not pu-
nished except by changing the place of banish-
ment, we could never learn. .

Having concluded our observations, and com-
pleted the survey of the bay, all three vessels pro-
ceeded out of the harbour to the northward, when
the Barracouta again narrowly escaped striking on
the bar. At sea Captain Owen returned his thanks
to her Captain, officers, and crew, for their merito-
rious and successful exertions in saving their vessel
when entering the port, and ordered a bullock to
be given to the latter, as a reward for their good con-
duct, not only then, but in the course of the various
services they had performed whilst separated
from us. .

We saw during this voyage a countless variety
of fish, but more particularly the white-finned
whale, these were so numerous that we were
sometimes alarmed during the night by the cry
of “breakers ahead !" and once actually tacked to
avoid them, but soon found that the cause of our
alarm was the splashing of these Sportive le-
viathans.

On the 26th we passed the several branches of
the Zambizi, called the Luabo, and at night pass-
ed Fogo Island, when, finding a current against
us and the wind light, we anchored, and the next
morning proceeded to Casuarina Road. At this
place we cut‘some Casuarina spars; which at first
were so extremely heavy as to be almost useless,

CONVIVIAL LIZARDS. 323

yet when well dried, although not light, they
answered the purpose, and were remarkably
strong.

From the Bazaruta Islands as far as Licungo
River the land is low, but from thence north-
wards it assumes a bolder character; from Li-
cungo to Mozambique are seen a great many of
the most stately casuarina trees, looking at a
distance like ships under sail, a peculiarity which
we nowhere else observed. We dug seven feet
for water on both these islands, but without suc-
cess; and it is remarkable that the lizards suffer
so much from the privation, that when our men
were at dinner they actually ran over them, and
endeavoured with much perseverance to get at
the water they had brought for their own use:
they absolutely drank of their grog, to the great
amusement of our people, who, as they had
proved themselves such convivial companions,
were desirous of taking them on board for pets.
On the 4th of October, we arrived in the harbour
of Mozambique.

The constant use and exposure of our boats
in surveying, kept the carpenters continually at
work in their repair; and such was the penu-
rious policy of our public dock-yard establish-
ments in the issue of small stores, that all our
nails were expended before we reached Sofala,
and the forge obliged to be kept constantly at
work for their manufacture, so that, calculating
fuel alone, each nail must have cost more than
one pound would have done in England.

Y 2

324 AN EARTHQUAKE.

Seven or eight vessels were in this port to
take cargoes of slaves to Brazil; one of about
six hundred tons being fitted for twelve hundred
of these miserable wretches.

During this visit to Mozambique, Lieutenant
Mudge, assisted by Messrs. Badgley and Foster,
surveyed the harbours of Conducia, Mozambique,
and Mokamba, by permission of the Governor,
and Captain Owen afterwards presented him with
copies of such parts of the coast as we had ex-
amined. A ship was lying here, belonging to
the Mauritius, commanded by a Frenchman;
he had for nearly twelve months been in Passan-
dava Bay, off Madagascar, where he had salted
a cargo of beef, some of which we purchased and
found excellent.

From the lst to the 8th of October there were
repeated shocks of an earthquake about noon,
and on the 8th, at midnight, one was felt on
board with so much violence that Captain Owen
was induced to come on deck, under a supposi-
tion that the chain-cable had parted or was run-
ning out.

Having completed our water, the Barracouta
and Albatross were ordered to Patta, to commence
a survey of the coast from that place to Mozam-
bique, where they were to meet the Leven on the
14th of March following. Accordingly, on the
15th of October, our little squadron quitted this
harbour for their various destinations. Leaving the
Barracouta and Albatross to the labours assigned
them, we steered north—east, intending to make

SEA-BIRDS. 325

the most direct course for Bombay. Off Johanna,
we were detained a few days by heavy rains,
squalls, and calms, usual about the change of the
monsoon. VV'e sought in vain the Island of Natal,
which still defaces our charts, although there is
no authenticated proof that such an island was
ever seen ; but if it were, its place is certainly not
near that where it is usually represented. On
the 30th, we crossed the equator for the second
time since quitting England, in longitude 61% E :
when some birds were caught on board, particu-
larly a kind of jay and some hawks. These must
have been blown off the coast of Africa, as there
was no land within two hundred and seventy
leagues; it may therefore be presumed that birds
are not a sure sign of its proximity. There is,
however, a species of sea-fowl which we never,
saw more than fifty leagues from some dry spot
or other; these were the frigate-birds and the
small, white and dun-coloured gulls; the latter
we always met within twenty or thirty leagues of
coral reefs, or islands.

VVe boarded a dow, five days from Colombo,
and a Spanish ship of Manilla, eight days from
Bombay, from whom we learnt that no man-of-
War was at that port: this ship had been on the
coast of Africa, Zanzibar, and Muskat trading for
ivory. On the 12th, we passed the fort of Caun-
anore, showed our colours in passing, and then
beat up along shore.

It is difficult to describe the feelings excited
upon visiting a highly cultivated and commercial

326 JOYS or CIVILIZATION.

country, after having been long accustomed to
a land of ignorance and neglect. Nature may
have her Wild and desolate beauties pleasing to
the romantic or the melancholy disposition; but
a long residence amongst such scenes soon de-
stroys the pleasing visions, and the fancied lover
of nature quits his solitudes, and with delight
flies back to the cultivated and busy paths of
men. For the thousands that leave the desert
to taste the joys of life and civilization, how few
are there who seek their happiness in the woods
and wilds of nature? We at this moment felt
all the delights of children; every thing seemed
new and worthy of admiration. The coast was
inhabited by a lively and industrious population.
Numerous vessels that were constantly passing
denoted an active and thriving commerce, while
the coast, bold, and studded with majestic trees,
gave to the whole scene a look of life and ani-
mation far different from the still, wild shores we
had left, where all nature seemed stunted and
parched, with scarcely any appearance of com-
merce, or, if any, that resulting from slavery! The
wealth, the prosperity, of their trade is obtained by
bartering the sorrows and blood of their fellow-
creatures. \Veakness is there the victim of op-
pression; with none to protect it from the hand
of civilized man, who has turned its tears into
wealth, and put shackles on the children of Africa
in order to enrich himself by the sweat of their
brows. But we must return to our narrative.

In the evening of this day, which was extreme-

REMARKABLE METEOR. I 327

ly fine and clear, we saw at a short distance from
our vessel an object which all supposed to be a
large bird, of strange but brilliant plumage.
The sun had set about five minutes, and it was
some little time before we could distinctly see that
we were mistaken, and that what we were admiring
as a thing of earth was a light fluttering meteor,
soaring through the air, and exhibiting the most
varied and beautiful colours during its rapid
flight.

Long as this coast has been known and navi-
gated by Europeans, we found its precise geo—
graphy very imperfect, and perhaps there are few
parts of the world where a good hydrographical
survey is more required; for at present even the
best directions are not to be depended upon.

VVe entered Bombay harbour on the night of
the 22nd, and anchored amongst the shipping
near the middle ground. We here completely re-
fitted our ships, and contracted for provisions to
be sent to Mozambique, but there was so little
commerce between the Indian and African coasts,
that we had some difficulty in chartering a vessel,
upon sufficiently moderate terms for their trans-
port.

Lieutenant Mudge had a tent on Apollo-green
for astronomical observations, which were con-
tinued during our stay, while Lieutenant Reitz
went round Caranjah to survey the back naviga—
tion, and we sounded the harbour. He was also
employed to survey the shores as far as Kennery
and Hennery, together with those islands, but his

328 NAVAL DISCIPLINE.

removal to the Government of Mombas prevented
his work being brought to a conclusion. We
finished our charts of the coast of Africa, and sent~
them home by the Catherine Stewart Forbes, a
free trader. We completed our crew from the mer-
chant-vessels, Whose seamen always prefer when
abroad serving on board his Majesty’s ships : and
the only difficulty is to avoid distressing the
traders by receiving too many from one. This
circumstance is mentioned because it has become
a fashion with many to mislead the public on this
subject, and with the public to be misled, and rea-
dily to believe the reported cruelties to which “ poor
seamen” are subjected in ships of war; whilst
the officers are represented as arbitrary despots, who
exercise the power with which they are necessa-
rily invested capriciously, and without judg-
ment or mercy. This and various other parts of
naval discipline have been so strongly urged as
objections against this branch of the King’s ser-
vice, that a short digression on the subject, as far
as is deducible from the circumstances of our own
voyage, may not be here misplaced.

‘ On quitting England every man in both vessels
was a volunteer, (with the exception of about
twenty-five marines,) all having engaged to per-
form the voyage, subject to the well-known regu-
lations of the King’s naval service. Unfortunate-
ly the moral principles of this class of his Ma—
jesty’s subjects are as much to be deprecated as
their courage, steadiness, and subordination, are to
be admired whenever danger or necessity call for

NAVAL DISCIPLINE. 329

their exertions. Our voyage had scarcely com-
menced, when, as is universally the case with new
ships’ companies, drunkenness, insubordination,
and irregularity, prevailed to a very great extent,
more particularly amongst the marines, it being a
rule with that corps to select their worst cha—
racters upon every demand for men to serve afloat.
These faults on shore would perhaps produce
little immediate evil beyond example, and, there-
fore, those who deem the social glass and the
elevation it inspires, even to the subversion of
all order and discipline, evils of such little mo-
ment as not to merit the degradation of corporal
punishment, denounce its infliction as cruel and
inhuman, and the officers, whose painful duty it
is to award and see it executed, as capricious
tyrants. But this is not a correct View of
the subject, and its operation has produced much
mischief by the encouragement it gives to crime
in fostering the hope of impunity. On ship-
board the lives of all are frequently placed in the
hands of a single individual, and no part of the
multifarious duties could ever be executed unless
a system of the most unequivocal and prompt
obedience were established. On shore, in the
common course of relative duties and reciprocal
obligations, a man may bargain with his employer
in every stage of a transaction—may gainsay,
dispute, or even disobey—nay, may break his con-
tract, without any immediate evil resulting to
any but the parties themselves ; but in the military
service, and above all on board ship, even to hesi-

330 NAVAL DISCIPLINE.

tate in obeying may be fatal, not only to the ship
but to fleets, and even to nations. The importance
of such unqualified and prompt obedience is ac-
knowledged by every one acquainted with the
sea-service, and it is well known that this cannot
be effected without a regular system of order and
sobriety. Amongst those who assume to them-
selves the character of being friends to the “ poor
sailors,” without knowing their feelings or pro-
pensities, much less their duties, it is taken for
granted that corporal punishment is consider-
ed by seamen as a slavish degradation, ruinous
to their moral character, destructive of their
patriotism, and the means of implanting in them
a desire to transfer their talents and services
to other countries; but, above all, it is assumed
as a fixed principle that they prefer the merchant-
service to the navy: all which gratuitous as-
sumptions may with justice be flatly contra-
dicted.

On board a ship there are few modes of varying
punishment to meet all the gradations of offence.
But no sailor ever considers himself a worse
seaman, or lower in the estimation of those
around him in his own sphere, merely because he
has been punished at the gangway. And almost
universally, when the inflexible rules of order and
discipline do bring a known good man to punish-
ment, the feelings of the individual himself are
not so much mortified as those of his captain and
lieutenants; While his pride is frequently more
wounded by the fear of losing their esteem than by

NAVAL DISCIPLINE. 331

the fictitious importance attached to the chastise-
ment itself ; and it may with justice be said in the
navy, as well as in other situations, that a man is
always degraded among his fellows, and loses the
favour of his officers for the crime, and not for the
punishment, which, on the contrary, is often con-
sidered as an atonement to regain that considera-
tion and favour which they had forfeited by
their faults. Without discussing the subject at
greater length, these remarks shall be concluded
by observing, that the preference shown by mer-
chant-sailors for the navy is perfectly natural. In
the merchant-service, the interests of the masters
and the men are almost universally in direct op-
position, whilst in the navy they can never clash,
but must ever run together. The masters of mer-
chant-vessels are not responsible to any immediate
superiors for the abuse of their authority, whilst
in the navy every officer is known seriously to
be so.

Some of our men were invalided at Bombay,
and many suffered severely from the brackish
water, which produced dysenteries, that in some
cases proved fatal ; this evil, so far as the shipping
are concerned, might easily be remedied by the
tank-boats being filled at a place where the water
has not that deleterious quality. Our transactions
at Bombay were concluded by an occurrence which
would have been considered unworthy of notice,
but for the importance attached to it by the
heads of the military, in a lengthy undigested
mass of frivolous correspondence, afterwards for-

332 A MILITARY OFFICER ARRESTED.

warded to the Captain, and by him transfered to
the Admiralty. The facts were that a young officer
of the Company’s army came on board uninvited,
and got so drunk as to become extremely disor-
derly, and to conduct himself without any regard
to decorum or decency. Upon its being reported
to the Captain, he put a sentinel over him, and
he remained under arrest for twenty-four hours,
when he was, at his own request, suffered to go
on shore.

The military chiefs, it seems, were fired with
indignation that one of their officers, whatever his
offence, should be subjected to any other than
their own authority, and complained of the Cap-
tain’s conduct, accusing him of a breach of cour-
tesy at least, if not an insult against the whole
corps; to these complaints, most uncourteously
and vexatiously urged, it appears the Captain (lid
not think proper to make any reply, except in an
uncalled—for explanation to the Admiralty.

Our survey was ordered to commence at Guar-
dafui, which may be considered as the southern-
most cape of the entrance to the Red Sea. Of
the whole coast from thence to Zanzibar, scarcely
any certain information was known to the public,
so that in Malte Brun’s celebrated geography,
he only exclaims, “ What has become of the fa-
mous city of Melinda, and the twenty churches
of Mombas ?—-do they exist?” &c.

Mr. Horsburgh, however, states, in his inva-
luable Directory, that the Government of Bombay
sent an expedition in 1812, under Lieutenant

SURVEY or COAST ABOVE ZANZIBAR. 333

Smee, of the Company’s marine, to survey from
the Red Sea to Zanzibar. The ostensible object
of this voyage was to find a mouth of the Nile
said to open somewhere on that coast, by theore-
tical geographers, who, in their closets, measure a
thousand leagues with a pair of compasses, with-
out let or hindrance from the intervening ob-
stacles, and thus bring the whole limit of the
earth’s surface into the narrow compass of their
own diminutive ideas, without any regard to the
little arrangements of Nature.

Mr. Smee made a hasty voyage from Guarda—
fui to Zanzibar, and back again to the Red Sea.
His chart is on a small scale, and exceedingly im-
perfect, but most of his observations are corro-
borated by our future work. He had some com-
munication with the inhabitants of Patta, where
he conceived himself ill treated by the reigning
Sultan, and accordingly went to Zanzibar, Where
he refitted and revictualled his vessel, but had no
intercourse with any other part of the coast. To
obtain the particulars of this voyage, and such
other information as might be useful to us, was
the Captain’s principal object at Bombay.

By a communication received from the Hydro-
graphical Office,ale since we left England, it ap-
peared that the whole coast of Arabia, from Ras
a1 Had, or Cape Raselgat, as it is sometimes
called by the English, was but little known, and
the geographical situation of its prominent fea-
tures but ill determined; and as other places on

"* Vide Instructions, N0. 2.

334 ARRIVAL AT MUSKAT.

the coast of Africa, besides Zanzibar, were gene-
rally understood to be under the dominion of the
Imaum of Muskat, the Captain sought letters of
introduction from the Government of Bombay,
that we might procure such passports from him as
would enable us to proceed peaceably and with-
out risk along the shores of Arabia and Eastern
Africa. For this purpose, and to obtain inter-
preters, we proceeded to Muskat, where we ar-
rived on Christmas-day, and moored in the inner
cove. We were immediately visited by Lieu-
tenant Hunter, of the navy, and Abdallah, a
Moorish captain of one of the Imaum’s frigates,
three of which, together with a fine new brig,
built at Cochin, were lying in the harbour, and
appeared to be good stout vessels. He had also
recently purchased the Liverpool, which was in
dock at Bombay, and in her he afterwards per-
formed his pilgrimage to Mecca.

The small cove was filled with a forest of dows,
and presented a most interesting and animated
scene; every height is surmounted by a fortifica-
tion inaccessible to Christian View, but a power-
ful memento of the prowess and enterprise of the
Portuguese of other days. All these fortifica-
tions seemed strong, and capable of resisting an
assault; but the place itself may be cut off
from the interior and easily blockaded from
without.

The town is situated on the beach, at the foot
of a high hill, which completely encircles it, leav-
ing but one pass into the country by the Sudoaf

THE TOWN. 335

Road: in this gap, and round a noxious muddy
pool, numerous miserable mat-hovels are erected
by the native Arabs, as they are not allowed to
build any thing more substantial, for fear they
should cover the advance of an enemy.

336 MUSKAT.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Town of Muskat.—-The Sultan’s horses—A royal merchant.—

Merchant-frigates.—The Sultan’s pilgrimage.—Exchange of

. gifts. — Pearls.— The coast.— A man drowned—Island of

Massera. — Bays—Islands and reefs.—Erroneous chart. ——
The north coast.-—-Abdul Koory.—Its bay.

MUSKAT must be the filthiest town in the
world. It forms an entire bazaar, inhabited by
every caste of Indian merchants, who dwell in
narrow alleys, partly covered by open mats of
palm-leaves, slightly interwoven; these serve to
keep out the sun, but admit the rain freely, so
that after a shower the whole bazaar is knee—
deep in mud; and, as neither the sun nor the wind
can find admission, it remains in that state until
the moisture is evaporated by the animal heat
arising from the numerous passengers constantly in
motion, or the mud carried away upon their feet
in cumbrous masses.

The houses in the bazaar are in general only
one story high, having a flat roof covered with
earth, which gives the town the appearance of

HARBOUR 0F MUSKAT. , 337 ‘

a large burrow. In the front of each residence
is a small‘area opening into the alley, Which is
used as a shop for the display of goods. The
Sultan’s palace, and the houses of his family and
wealthy merchants are, however, in good style,
and some apparently comfortable.

It will readily be believed that such a place is
unhealthy: and in fact, it is so fatal, that it is
considered certain death for any Englishman to re-
main during the hot season. No fewer than three
residents appointed by the Company had died
Within a short period after their arrival. The
British Consul at the time of our visit was Golab,
a merchant Banyan ; who, although a Hindoo, so
far conquered his religious scruples, as to supply
us with bullocks and goats on very reasonable
terms. We also used his house, which was close to
the palace, as our observatory, and he one evening
gave us a nautclfi by way of entertainment. .

The harbour of Muskat is perfectly sheltered
from all but northerly winds, which sometimes
bring in a heavy sea, when the outer cove- be-
comes a dangerous anchorage. Adjoining this cove
to the northward is the beautiful Bay of Mut-
trah, the country around which is more open and
the place not so unhealthy. On the beach of
Muttrah a small ship was being built by a native
carpenter under the immediate inspection and di—
rection of the Sultan. Abundance of fish is taken
in this bay, and the surrounding country must be '

as An exhibition of dancing-girls, who, in eastern countries,
are by the strictest laws devoted to Venus.

VOL. I. Z

338 . THE SULTAN’S HORSES.

well supplied, as we saw daily many camels load-
ing from the boats to send into the interior. It
would seem that both the men and beasts live
principally upon dates and fish; yet the beef
thus fed was found by far the best flavoured
and fattest we had met with since leaving Eng-
‘ land.

Hindoostany appears to be the lingua franca,
Arabic being only spoken by the native Arabs,
who form by far the smallest portion of the inha-
bitants.

The Sultan has a stud of excellent horses, some
of which he presents annually to the Governor of
Bombay, but who is by the laws of the East India
Company enjoined not to receive presents; they
are, therefore, always sold by auction for the
benefit of the Company, when, if the Governor
should wish for them, he is frequently obliged to
pay very dearly for his presents.

In the neighbourhood of Muskat, lucerne is
cultivated as green food for horses, and is brought
daily to market. \Ve procured some fine grapes,
water-melons, pomegranates, oranges, sweet and
sour limes, dates, and kissmisses ; this last-named
fruit is a small raisin without stones, and it is ex-
cellent when it can be procured free from filth;
but in general, nothing can be more disgusting
than both the dried dates and kissmisses, for the
Arab is beyond a doubt the dirtiest of the human
species. It was not without good reason that
the lawgiverg'of that people enjoined numerous
daily ahlutions as a religious dogma, the fulfilment

A ROYAL MERCHANT. 339

of which, he told them, was as necessary to salva—
tion as prayer; but this, like most dogmas in
their own and other religions, is now become a
matter of mere form, affording no security against
their habitual uncleanliness. In their cooking,
however, which is performed principally by the
women, it is but justice to say that the' utmost
nicety is evident, and the most dainty might find
in their repasts no obstacle to the indulgence of
a fastidious appetite.

Muskat is absolutely dependent on commerce
for its daily bread, and its importance has in
a great measure arisen from the liberality of
the present Sultan, under whose mild govern-
ment every merchant finds security of person and
property, while all creeds are tolerated without
being subject to insult or arbitrary exactions
from the disciples of the prophet. The Sultan
himself is the chief merchant, and can borrow
money largely from the Banyans, to whom he
farms certain revenues; these Banyans are the
Jews of the East, and take care never to lend
without a certain prospect of large returns. Be-
sides the facility the Sultan has in thus obtaining
money, he comes into the market on much easier
terms than other merchants, who are subjected to
a duty of five per cent. on all their transactions ;
but, unlike most princes of his faith, he is said to
be contented with this profit. The expenses of
protection and government are paid by him from
his possessions on the eastern coast of Africa,
which may be considered as his private property,

z 2

340 M ERCHANT-I’RIGATES.

at least so far as their revenues, which are levied
arbitrarily; The good faith of the Sultan, the
security he derives from his connexion with the
Government of Bombay, and the_advantageous
situation of the port (at the entrance of the Per-
sian Gulf) has rendered it a sort of emporium for
the Coasts of Africa, Madagascar, the Red Sea, the
Persian Gulf, and India in general; and in being
so, it has {rather added to than diminished the
trade of Cdtch, Surat, Bombay, &c.

The family of which this Sultan is a member,
is considered holy, a character to be maintained
only by a rigid performance of the rites pre—
scribed by ‘Mahomet. They are punctilious in
their five daily washings and prayers ; these cere-
monies, therefore, occupy much of the Sultan’s
time, but his court is attended twice every day
by his officers, when he transacts business.

He employs his frigates as merchant-vessels,
the officers and crews of which are the Lascars of
India. It did not appear that he had ever used
them for hostile purposes, as he has learned that
warlike equipments are not only the most expen—
sive but the least productive; they are, therefore,
engaged in collecting cowries and other articles of
commerce on the eastern coast of Africa, at Qui—
,loa or Keelwa, Zanzibar and Lamo, with which
he traffics to Calcutta and the Persian Gulf. In
1824, be fitted out the Liverpool at Bombay for
a voyage to Mecca, when, it is said, he presented
the richest offering that had been made at the
shrine of his prophet for many years. This may

THE SULTAN’S PILGRIMAGE. 341

be inferred to have been more the effect of policy
than religious zeal, for his title to dominion re-
quired the high sanction of the Porte, before the
name of Sultan could be assumed; and that of
Imaum is conferred by the Shireef of Mecca, but
is never granted without the assistance of a pil-
grimage and a considerable donation. Until his
power had these great warrants, he was always
open to intrigues and plots, while his dethrone-
ment or assassination would have been deemed
less criminal. Before he made this important
voyage, he called himself Saheed ben Sultan, or
Saheed the Sultan’s son. His father had been a
successful rebel against his prince, and Saheed him—
self obtained his power by the assassination of his
uncle. But at first his title was not even ac—
knowledged so far as his power, and even that
was not recognised more than forty or fifty miles
along the sea-coast to Burka. In the interior, the
Wahabees held an independent dominion, but
their rapine and plunder of British merchant-ves-
' sels caused two expeditions to be sent against
them from Bombay; one to Ras ul Kheima in
the Strait of the Persian Gulf, and the other
against Beni boo Alli, who ruled the coast south-
ward and westward from Ras a1 Had. The suc-
cess of these, and the destruction of his enemies,
confirmed the power of Saheed ben 'Sultan, who
may now be considered as firmly seated on his
throne, at least while under the protection of the
British Government of Bombay.

At the time of our visit to Mu'skat, the Sultan

342 EXCHANGE or GIFTS.

was about forty years of age, with mild and gen-
tlemanly manners; he was very communicative,
and forced on the Captain some trifling presents,
which the latter could not decline without giving
offence. Captain Owen upon this gave him an
Arabic copy of the Scriptures, with which he
appeared much gratified, not from any thoughts
of conversion, but because they are declared by
the Koran to be holy books containing God’s
Word. The Sultan in return presented the Cap-
tain with an emblematic offering of his own creed
--a superb sword, the blade of Damascus steel,
and the handle richly mounted with gold.

Before our departure, he came on board in
state, when we received him with our yards
manned and the ship dressed with flags, but did
not salute on account of our chronometers; the
preparation for this ceremonious visit was rather
ludicrous, for, as we had many pigs on board, they
were ordered to be put into the boats, that they
might not offend the Sultan by their profane
appearance. The noise they made during their
removal was enough to alarm every Mussulman
on shore or afloat, for the morning was still, and
the echoes reverberated from the surrounding bills
as if animated with the vulgar desire of offend-
ing the religious prejudices of the natives; but
bigotry is not amongst the vices of Muskat, and
the scene afforded as much amusement to the
Mahometans as to ourselves.

We might have purchased numerous pearls
from the fishery of Bahrein in the Gulf at a tole—

PEARLs 343

rably cheap rate: three of uncommon size and
beauty were offered us at Golab’s house, one
weighing fifty-seven grains, for one thousand eight
hundred Spanish dollars, and two others, weigh-
ing twenty-seven grains each, for nine hundred
and twenty, which in Europe would probably
have been worth more than as many pounds.

This Golab was one of the Sultan’s principal
agents and farmers of revenue; they both exa-
mined very minutely the pearls which we had
brought from the Bazaruta Islands, and the Sul-
tan was desirous of sending thither a fishing esta-
blishment. \Vithout doubt, this point offers one
of the best openings for a lucrative speculation
that at present exists; the fishery has now been
neglected for so many years, that in all probabi-
lity it would produce many exquisite pearls of
the largest size. The Sultan supplied us with
wood and water at his own cost, and gave us a
pilot for the coast of Arabia and eastern Africa,
as far as Zanzibar; he also furnished us with an
interpreter, who spoke French tolerably and a
little English; this man’s name was Hamees ben
Othman, a Sowhyly African, to whom, as well as
to the pilot, the lmaum paid fifty dollars from his
own purse.

On the lst of January, we weighed from the
outer cove of BIuSkat,znni beat dovvn the coast
past Sedap and U1 Heraun to a village named
Hessat Shekh, a little to the eastward of Ras
ul Heraun. The land eastward from Muskat is
composed of rugged mountains with little verdure, V

34141 THE COAST.

but the country on the other side is said to be
fertile and productive. U1 Heraun is an island
which forms a fine harbour, with a clear and deep
entrance from the eastward, but to the westward
it is shallow, although sufficiently deep for small
vessels , it is about five leagues from Muskat, and
has abundance of excellent water but no wood, an
objection which holds equally against Muskat,
whither the fuel is brought from Burka.

It was the Captain’s intention to trace the
coast minutely from Muskat as far as Dafoor,
although not directed so to do by his orders; but
the details of this part of the Arabian coast were
so much at variance that it was impossible to place
any reliance upon their authenticity.

It was found, however, that when close in-shore
the wind constantly failed, which prevented our
approaching sufficiently near for this purpose any
where from Boo Dahood or the entrance of Cape
Kooriat to Soor: the detail of the intermediate
part of the coast was thelefore lost.

We recommenced ou1 survey at Ras a1 Had,
which is a low sandy point, being the only one
upon the coast, and thence named Flat Point.
It has a Sheik’s tomb at the extremity, and the
ruins of a Portuguese fort and village, forming
good land-marks. The shore is rocky; two miles
from the point, is the narrow entrance to Heiran
Bay, but neither the fort nor entrance can be
seen from aship’s deck. The mountains at the
back of Ras a1 Had are about six thousand feet
high, forming a chain as far as the Devil’s Gap

A MAN DROWNED. 345

and Kooriat: they are called J eebel Huthera, or
the green mountains. U1 Huthera is about west
by south of Kooriat, and the next to the south—
ward is called Jeebel Jahalem, at the foot of
which stands Beni boo Alli.

From Ras a1 Had we surveyed close in-shore,
passing Ras Jins and Ras a] Hubba, when we
came on a bank of shoal soundings, being the
same that had been passed over by the Menai in
1823, during her voyage from Zanzibar to Mus-
kat. A seaman, \Villiam Evans, here fell over-
board whilst passing the lead; the boats were
instantly lowered, and the life-buoy let go; but in
vain, as he could not swim! W 6 were, there-
fore, compelled to witness his dying struggles
without being able to render him any assistance.
How awful is an event of this kind in a small
community! The poor fellow a few moments
before was cheerfully doing his duty, with ha-
bitual confidence in the firmness of his footing——
but reflection had no time to break upon him,
one false step and every thought was absorbed in
fruitless efforts to escape; with those efforts life
ceased, and the deep closed over him for ever.

We anchored near .Al Ash Hara, famous in
the Beni boo Alli war of 1820, in consequence of
the crew of an English ship having been murdered
there. From Ras J ins, or Angel Point, to Ras a1
Hubba, the coast is formed of steep rocky cliffs,
from thirty to forty feet in height, after which it
becomes sandy and shallow, with good anchorage
and plenty of fresh water.

346 ISLAND or MASSERA.

The early Portuguese frequently visited this
coast, and the Arabs still benefit by, but never
repair, the tanks they established for preserving
the rain. We next made Ras Jibsh, which at
first appears like an island, on account of the land
connecting it with the main being nearly on a
level with the sea. The low coast from Jibsh
is called Shéble, as far as Massera. We here saw
some Arabs whose tents had a Wild and wretched
appearance. No sooner did they perceive us than
they mounted their camels and followed along the
shore, in the hope (as Abdallah our pilot informed
us) of seeing a wreck. We next made the is-
land of Massera, the northern point of which is
called Aulf, or Alif, probably on account of its
similarity to the Arabic letter of that name,
being a long narrow stripe of sand extending into
the sea. The eastern point is Eya, or Ya, which
it has also, perhaps, obtained from its confi-
guration. Abdallah was much alarmed, during
our approach to the island, on account of a reef of
dangerous rocks, which he described as extending
nearly two miles from the coast; but, the weather
being fine and the water smooth, we had no appre—
hension, but employed ourselves in catching dol-
phins and horse-mackerel, while the whales were
amusing themselves by sporting around the
ship.

The external appearance of Massera is as for-
bidding as the rest of Arabia Felix, which we all
agreed was the most unhappy looking coast we
had visited; yet. this is the only place where the

BAYS. 347

date-trees are said to bear twice a year, but
the quality of the fruit thus rapidly produced
did not meet with much approbation from our
Arabs. Just round point Alif, is the village
of that name, and, in the North Bay, a place
called Hastelleugh, inhabited by the whale-fish-
ermen. A deep, but narrow channel with marks
exists within the island by keeping close round
Alif. We surveyed the whole outer coast of
the island to Aboo Rassas, and then continued our
course along the main, passing in succession the
shoal clifl‘s, Cape Isolette, Raskooriat, and Has
Markass. VVe discovered that, by steering a
S. W. by S. course from Massera, the shoals that
extend from the land opposite to that island may
be cleared. From Abdallah we learned that a
south-westerly course would lead to Gezirat ul
Humr, the rocky island seen by the San Carlos.
Vessels from the Red Sea visit this place to ob—
tain the deposit of the numerous birds, which is
said to be used by the Arabs for a cement in
building.

Passing Markass, on the north side of which
is a safe little harbour during the south-west mon—
soon, we steered close in to Tagayat Abak, or
Abak’s Hat, when Point Soore was seen within
the Great Bay of Safigra, which is formed by
Cape Isolette and Marica. The port of this bay,
between Madraka and Safigra, falls back to the
westward much more than is represented in our
charts. The Arabs place its western point in
18° 35’ north latitude, and nearly forty leagues

348 ISLANDS AND REEFS.

from Madraka; but we were led to believe that
it was not more than thirty. We could not per-
ceive the least appearance of vegetation or ani-
mation on the shores, with the exception of a
few men and huts at Madraka. The dominion
of the Imaum of M uskat here terminates, and that
of the Sultan of Dhofar commences.

The next place to Safigra is Koorya Moorya
Bay, which is extensive, and has good soundings
throughout; the islands are named Jibly, Hal-
lanny, Soda, and Haskee. A long reef is said
to extend from Hallanny to within a few yards
of Soda, and an English ship, probably relying
upon Horsburgh, attempted to pass the inter-
vening space in 1820 or 1821, when she was lost
and all her officers perished. There is another
reef which joins the rock Radonda and Hallanny,
but between Soda, Haskee, and the main land,
the channels are good. Horsburgh relates that
Admiral Blanket attempted to pass betheen Hal-
lanny and Soda, but was obliged by the wind
to steer to the eastward of both. This was a
providential necessity, for had he pursued the
other course his loss would have been inevitable.
Soda is the only one of these islands that is
inhabited; the anchorage and village are at the
north end, where it is said water may be obtained.
Its mountains are very high, and apparently of
volcanic production.

We had now been eight days from Muskat,
and completed about one hundred and forty
leagues of coast ; the only rivers we had met with

ERRONEOUS CHART. 349

in the whole of this distance being that at Safigra,
and the one at Minjy. The cliffs increased gra—
dually, as we continued our course, from five
hundred to nearly one thousand six hundred feet
in height; and the hills of Noss and about Mor-
bat cannot be less than five thousand. We found
the eye-draft of Captain Smith, which had been
sent us from the Admiralty, full of faults; Ta-
gayat Abak being just two degrees eastward of
its true situation, and Ras Noss about forty
miles too easterly. This work, as reduced by Dal—
rymple, is, as an eye—draft, respectable, but as
a chart very imperfect. Captain Bissel’s observa-
tions agreed with our own more fully than any
others we had met with. Off Cape Morbat, the
wind came round from the westward, when Cap—
tain Owen was taken extremely ill from a stroke
of the blat *, and it being considered that we had
surveyed suflicient of this coast to connect it with
other works already before the world, and not
being included in our instructions, we sailed to
the southward for Soktra.

Morbat and Dhofar were at this time under
the government of Mohammed ben Akéél, a rich
Jew, who, having hired and trained one thousand
Nubian slaves, conquered the country from Far-
tak to Garwow on the coast, and to Hadramout
in the interior, which is the name of a populous
town, and not of the whole coast, as erroneously

* A pernicious land wind peculiar to this coast, which pro-
duces rheumatic fever and affections of the bones—Queue. Has
the English word blight any relation to this?

350 BUNDUR BEELAD.

stated in our charts. From Fartak the Arabs
are tributary to the Porte.

January the 13th, we arrived within three
leagues of the eastern point of Soktra, called Ras
Shoorguy, or Dolphin’s Nose. We surveyed the
whole of the north coast, a distance of nearly
twenty leagues, in the course of the day, passing
Tamarin Bay, which our Arabs called Bundur
Beelad, or “ The Town Anchorage,” because the
residence of the chief. This bay may easily
be found, being situated on the plain imme-
diately beyond the most westerly of the sand
hills, which compose the whole coast, twenty
miles from the high land of Ras Shoorguy, or
East Cape; while nearly south from the town
are the chimney or turret-like projections from
the summit of the central mountain, six thousand
feet high, covered with shrubs, principally of the
cactus family, and visible from a distance of
nearly one hundred miles.

Proceeding westward to the Bay of Galanseca,
we perceived a remarkable pyramidal rock, near
the shore, resembling a Chinese pagoda. This
bay is the only anchorage used by the Arab na-
vigators, and possesses many advantages over that
marked in the Admiralty charts as “VVintering
Bay.” We‘passed between Soktra and the Sa-
boyna Rocks, which are called by the natives
Karkafaharoon, from their resemblance to the
roots of the two-lobed orchis bulbs.

The inhabitants of Soktra and the adjacent

ABDUL KOORY. 351

coast are a race unknown to the Arabs, but are
supposed to be Abyssinians, as they neither speak
nor write Arabic.

We next made Abdul Koory, and saw Salt’s
rocks, of which Horsburgh doubts the existence,
but which we proved to be six leagues north-
west from the eastern point of Abdul Koory.
Our anchorage was in a fine bay, formed by a
narrow isthmus of sand—hills, with a coral bottom.
We sent a boat on shore to communicate with
the natives, who were found miserably poor, and
with nothing but a little brackish water to drink,
in consequence, they said, of there having been
no rain on the island for the last three years, and
their wells being dried up ; they had a few half-
starved goats, which, with rock-oysters and a
species of vegetable blubber, formed the whole
of their subsistence. This marine vegetable some- ’
what resembles a puff-toadstool full of water,
varying in size from a goose’s egg to a four-
pound shot; the outer pellicle is transparent, with
an inner one of a bright lead colour, and the
root resembles that of the mushroom, consisting
of small bulbs without fibres.

One old native came on board, when we pre-
sented him with some clothes and rice; he ap-
peared of a fine race of people, and stated that
he was one hundred years of age, and remem-
bered some events that had occurred eighty years
back. The Island of Abdul Koory is about
twenty miles long and two broad, composed

352 ITS BAY.

principally of granite, and perfectly resembling
Soktra in formation. The bay is immediately
at the western point of the high mountain on
the south side, and is very good as an anchor-
age, but ofi'ers no further inducement to mari-
ners, being quite destitute of verdure, although
above sixty persons contrive to vegetate upon its
barren soil.

CAPE GUARDAFUI. 353

CHAPTER XIX,

Cape Guardafui.—Peninsula of Haf‘oon.-—Rocky coast, called
Hazine, the Ajan of the maps.—VVreckers.-—The Somauli.—-
The Galla, a wild people.—Mukdeesha.—City of the dead.
——Jealousy of strangers.—Treacher0us act.—Aspect of the
coast.———Devastation.—Tower of Manara.——Rocks and islets.
—The Hakeem.—Lamoo.-—The Governor’s visit.—Arrival
at Mombas.—Cession of Mombas and dependencies to Great
Britain.— Pemba, or Green Island.— The Perseverance.—
Ingratitude.-—-—P0rts and Bays.——Bay of Mizimbaty.—Picos
Fragos. '

UPON getting again under weigh, we soon ob-
tained sight of Cape Guardafui to the south-west.
This bold headland cannot well be mistaken, as
the coast makes a sudden turn. It is called by
the natives Ras Assere, and the high mountain
immediately to its south is named Gibel Jorda~
foon, near which there is said to be a large pool
of spring-water, always full; but whether this re-
servoir is a work of nature or art we could not
learn. Keeping about nine miles off shore we
rounded the peninsula of Hafoon, and steered west.
Hafoon appears like an island, and belongs to a na-
tive Somauli prince; who resides near that part of
the coast marked as Cape Delgado, but which is

VOL. I. 2 A

354 , ROCKY COAST.

properly Ras Maber, meaning Cape “ stand ofi‘;”
because the Arab coasters, steering to the north-
ward, always run out from this point with the
southerly monsoon in order to round Hafoon.
The country is populous, and produces abundance
of sheep, horses, camels, and cattle, with plenty of
excellent water by digging.

The Portuguese formerly had possession of this
place, when, to make it more defensible, they
commenced cutting a canal through the isthmus,
which connects it with the main-land; but when
the Arabs had beaten them out of Muskat, they
continued their pursuit along the coast, and soon
put a stop to their proceedings. We caught
every day numerous seer or saar fish, and some
bonetoes, the former weighing about twenty
pounds each. After passing Hafoon we in one
day ran down about eighty miles of coast, as far
as Ras 111 Khyle: the whole shore was rocky,
and varying from two to four hundred feet in
height. This is known by the Arabs as Hazine,
or “ rough g1ound. ” Southward of Ras ul
Khyle is Sef Tweel, “ the bald,” or “ declining
shore,” and after that Herab, or “ mountainous
country.” It is strange that this desc11pt1ve term
“ Hazine,” should have produced the names
Ajan, Azon, and Azamea, in many maps and
charts; as the country never had any other
appellation than Barra Somauli, or “ the land of
Somauli,” a people who have never yet been col-
lected under one government, and whose limits of

THE SOMAULI. 355

subjection are only within bow-shot of individual
chiefs.

In a community thus formed, it is not sur-
prising that persons and property should become
the prey of superior power. A few months
since a large chelinga, belonging to the Imaum
of Muskat, was stranded on the shores of Sef
Tweel. A thousand natives soon came down
from the interior claiming by force their deodand
upon the vessel ; this was, of course, objected to,
but in less than an hour not a plank was left to
point out the wreck, while the merchants and ma-
riners were carried to Mukdeesha, where they
were sold for slaves. After being in captivity for
nearly a year, they contrived to get letters con-
veyed to their friends at Zanzibar, who sent some
stout negroes to replace them, and thus obtained
their ransom. Mukdeesha, Marka, and Brava,
are the only places on this coast which keep up
any communication with the interior; but, as the
enduring camel is common, even south of Zan-
zibar, and as there are no large streams, few ob-
stacles exist to a more general intercourse. It
was stated that the Imaum of Muskat had re-
cently subjected the two latter places to his do-
minion.

The coast of Africa, from the Red Sea to the
river Juba, is inhabited by the tribe called So-
mauli, apparently descendants from the aborigines
of the country, who were early subjected to the
Koran by the Arab merchants trading with them.

2 A 2

356 A WILD PEOPLE.

They are a mild people, of pastoral habits, and
confined entirely to the coast; the whole of the
interior being occupied by an untameable tribe
of savages, called Galla, perhaps at the present
time the most uncultivated and ferocious in
existence. ’

Between Cape Guardafui and the Straits of
Babelmandel are two or three towns little visited
or known by Europeans. One named Barbara,
or Burbureen, is on the track of the caravans
from the interior, whence the pilgrims and mer-
chants embark for Jedda and Mecca. In the
whole country from Guardafui to Mukdeesha
there is not the least appearance of an inhabited
spot, although we could observe abundance of
camels and cattle, and it is said to possess a race
of small wild horses. The commerce of this
country appears to have been solely directed to-
wards the Red Sea by means of caravans; in
consequence of which, as the people are not them-
selves subject to the dangers of the sea, they have
no feelings of compassion for those who are thrown
on their shores. A wreck to them is a prize,
and the unfortunate sufferers become their slaves,
the misery of whose lot is heightened by every
species of suffering, in order to enhance the value
of their ransom.

The information we were enabled to obtain
respecting the government of these people, was
very vague and uncertain, but by all accounts
it possesses more the character of patriarchal ty-
ranny than any other form. Our Arab reporters

MUKDEESIIA.—-CITY OF THE DEAD. 357

stated the whole country of the Somauli to be
under one prince, but we were led to believe that
it was ruled by as many chiefs as hordes, and as
many tyrants as chiefs. It is however certain
that either their poverty or valour has prevented
any invasion of their country or rights; no
foreign establishments have been formed upon
their coast, neither are there any decayed monu-
ments visible of either the Christians or Arabs,
so that Whatever may be their social compact, 1i-
berty is still their birthright.

Mukdeesha, (2" 1’ 8” south, 45° 19’ 5"east,) the
only town of any importance upon the coast is
the mistress of a considerable territory. The port
is formed by a long reef, extending to the east-
ward for four or five miles, within which is a
narrow channel, with ten to twelve feet water at
low spring tides. At a distance the town has
rather an imposing appearance, the buildings
being of some magnitude and composed of stone.
The eye is at first attracted by four minarets of
considerable height, towering above the town, and
giving to it an air of stilly grandeur, but a nearer
approach soon convinces the spectator that these
massive buildings are principally the residences
of the dead, while the living inhabit the low
thatched huts by which these costly sepulchres
are surrounded. It is divided into two distinct
towns, one called Umarween, and the other
Chamgany, the latter of which may with justice
be called “ the city of the dead,” being entirely
composed of tombs. Umarween has nearly one

358 JEALOUSY 0F STRANGERS.

hundred and fifty stone houses, built in the
Spanish style, so as to enclose a large area. Most
of the Arab dows visit this place in their coast
navigation, to exchange sugar, molasses, dates, salt
fish, arms, and slaves, for ivory, gums, and a
particular cloth of their own manufacture, which
is much valued by the people of the interior.

The inhabitants appeared extremely jealous
of strangers. Our officers, upon landing, were
subjected to a species of imprisonment, being im-
mediately shut up in a house, but with liberty to
ramble about according to their inclinations within
it. The only knowledge they gained of the town
was, therefore, from the terrace of their place of
confinement. This restraint was most respect-
fully but firmly enforced, and, to evince their
friendly disposition towards us, a camel, a bullock,
and a goat were brought to the beach for our
use. The latter only was accepted by Captain
Owen to convince them that their probably ne-
cessary precautions had not produced an unfa-
vourable impression.

The language of these people differs from that
of the Sowhylese, and very few understand Ara-
bic, consequently their religion can be little more
than form, as the Koran must be read in the
original tongue. Their arms consist in a spear,
with bows and arrows, while every Arab and
Sowhyly carries a sword, one or two daggers,
and a target.

Upon anchoring off the town, a canoe with
eight or ten persons came alongside, as we con-

TREACHEROUS ACT. 359

eluded with the intention of coming on board;
but, when within a cable’s length, they lay upon
their paddles and beckoned us ashore, and all our
active eloquence could not induce them to ap-
proach any nearer. Their appearance was very
singular, being entirely naked, with their heads
shaved perfectly bald. The probable cause of
their want of confidence in foreigners, was the
following occurrence, which was then fresh in
their recollections.

In 1823 the squadron of dows sent for the
subjugation of Mombas by Seid ben Sultan, of
Muskat, under Abdallah ben Saleyum, touched at
M ukdeesha, when Abdallah sent orders for the
chiefs to wait upon him and receive the commands
of the Imaum. Two of the principal people ac-
cordingly went on board with some trifling pre-
sents, when he immediately sailed, and put them
in prison at Zanzibar, there to remain until they
could produce two thousand dollars for their ran-
som. Upon Captain Owen’s being made ac-
quainted with this act of treachery in the Imaum’s
officer, he directed Seid Larkbree, the Governor,
to liberate them, which, from either fear or re-
spect, he did. In consequence of this unjust
measure Mukdeesha, Marka, Brava, Patta, and
l\Iombas had, before our arrival, entered into a
league against the power of the Imaum. .

\Ve found the works of Horsburgh greatly de-
ficient respecting this part of the coast. In fact,
we were led to believe that his authorities must
have drawn their information from very distant

360 ASPECT or THE COAST.

observations. The places called in his work Cape
Delgado, Barn-hill, Bandel D’Agoa, or Bunder
D’Agoa,* and Mora Kober, we could not find, in
the situation assigned to them : his boundary line
of coast is, however, less erroneous. The whole
of this shore presents but little variety, being com-
posed of sand-cliffs and hills, and as there are
many dangerous reefs, ships should not approach
nearer than twenty fathoms without some well-
defined object as a guide. To the westward of
Mukdeesha the country assumes a more fertile
and populous appearance. This was formerly] in
possession of the Portuguese, who landed here in
the fifteenth century, when the numerous towns
from Mukdeesha to Sofala, appear to have been
held by some Mohametan Moors, differing in
every particular of language, person, and cha-
racter, both from the Arabs and native Africans.
To the southward of Juba, even to the island of
Chuluwan, and perhaps to Delagoa, every part of
the coast was inhabited by this race of people,
now called Sowhylese; their language being
still spoken from Patta to Mozambique, and
strong evidences of it existing in the various
dialects as far as the confines of our Cape Co-
lony.

The most wealthy of these Sowhyly states
was the Sultany of Patta; the line of islands,
ports, and rivers, between Ovoombo and the bay
still show the ruins of several towns that were

* A curious combination of Arabic and Portuguese in the
same name.

DEVASTATION. 361

once of considerable importance. The destruc-
tion of these is attributed to the fierce and rest-
less Galla, whose desolating fury has swept off
every town situated on the main-land, from J uba
to Mombas; but as, like the Kafi'ers, these sa-
vages have an unconquerable aversion to the sea,
the only places free from their attacks were those
in insulated situations. The character of the
times, however, justifies a doubt whether the
whole of these dilapidations properly belong to
the Gallas. Arab piracy was then common, and
the successful robber was sure of a good market,
either among the Christians or those of his own
faith, and the lawless adventurer could then
bring into the market his stock of human misery
without a blush or fear of punishment for the
means which he had employed to obtain it.
These considerations make it probable that many
of the towns that now have hardly a mouldering
ruin to mark their site owed their destruction to
men more lawless and scarcely less savage than
the wild barbarians of the forest.

The Portuguese formerly made the princes or
chiefs of these countries tributary to their do-
minion, and the inscription over the gate of
Mombas records that they were frequently sub-
jected to war and rapine for refusing the most
tyrannical exactions. \Vhen the dominion of the
Portuguese had become hateful, and the power of
the Imaum of Muskat had grown into import—
ance, two of his generals were dispatched in dif—
ferent directions, with considerable forces, to

362 TOWER OF MANARA.

possess themselves of the Portuguese establish-
ments. Both succeeded. But the grandfather of
the present Imaum, who conducted one of these
expeditions along the shores of Arabia and the
Persian Gulf, consummated his success by throw-
ing of? his allegiance and usurping the conquest
that he had made for his prince. The only
benefit that the Imaum derived from these hos-
tile measures was obtaining possession of Zan-
zibar, by an agreement that the Sowhyly chief
of the island and certain other towns should
receive fifteen thousand dollars a year, but which,
like most Arab agreements, has never been ful-
filled.

In this state the country appears to have re-
mained for ninety years, the rulers of .Muskat
sometimes making a feeble attempt to surprise
Pemba, or other places attached to the govern-
ment of Mombas; still, however, keeping up a
commercial intercourse.

Our next anchorage was off the tower of Ma-
fiara, which must originally have been intended
as a sea-mark, and is an excellent situation for a
light-house. Upon the shore could be observed
groups of natives, and plenty of cattle, sheep,
goats, and camels; many of the people were tra-
velling to Brava With loads of wood, collected
from the hills westward of Mafiara. The de-
criptions of Bessel, Smee, and other authorities,
were so imperfect that we found it impossible to
discover the position of the Dedalus Rocks by
their assistance; we were, however, ultimately

ROCKS AND ISLETS. 363

successful, and have marked them in our charts
with accuracy. We now made the mouth of the
River Juba, known by the Africans as Wow-
weenda. This river rises in Habeshy, or Abys-
sinia, and may be navigated in boats for three
months from its mouth. The bar is narrow, but
has plenty of water. The coast, and most of the
islets to the southward of Juba, are formed of
madrepore. The first island of any size, after
passing the river, is Kismayhoo, all the rocks and
islets around which are called by the Arabs Hoo-
ma ul Hawaween, and are considered very dan~
gerous, but we found a good anchorage for small
vessels between them and the main.

“’9 now steered along shore for Lamoo, passing
several islands, but none of suflicient importance to
require a description, until we saw what we called
the Pesanby Rocks, known to the Arabs as the
Seven Islands of Eryaya, which is also the name
of the great channel through the reefs into Patta.
Abdallah would have taken us into the river, like
a dow or chelinga, but finding the water had
shoaled to four fathoms, we instantly let go an
anchor about five miles from the town, when a
boat was sent ashore to the Governor, which, in
a short time, returned with a letter from Captain
Vidal, stating that the Barracouta had quitted
on the 25th of November.

This part of the coast we found more imper-
fectly described and delineated than any other,
the charts being made apparently to frighten
vessels, instead of encouraging them to approach

364 TIIE HAKEEM.

the harbour. The Island of Kwyhoo, situated
near the north entrance of Patta Bay, may easily
be distinguished by its white sandy soil, spotted
with verdure, and terminating in a low point,
having several small islets at the extremity.
Lieutenant Mudge and the surveyors were sent‘
on shore to Ras Kattow, 2° 19' south, 40° 52’ 3”
east for observations, while two boats Went to the
town of Lamoo for water, and to take Captain
Owen to pay his respects to the Hakeem or Go-
vernor Sef Ben Hamed, who was a cousin to the
Imaum. We found him in an open shed called the
Custom House, surrounded by his countrymen
and black soldiers. It was pleasing to observe the

; manners of these Arabs, which were courteous in

hthe extreme, but devoid of the slightest affec-

iltation. Even our fisherman-pilot, Abdallah, be-
haved in the presence of the Governor in an easy
and dignified manner that would have graced any
European court. They all saluted the Hakeem
by shaking and then kissing his hands, the con-
stant repetition of which was very tiresome.

The Captain presented his letter from the
Imaum, as well as an authority which he had
received for making some arrangements to prevent
the continuation of the slave-trade from this port
to Mozambique and Bembatooka. The town of
Lamoo is situated about three miles from Ras
Kattow, its houses built in the pure Arabic style,
that is, crammed together as close as space will
allow, so as to admit of a narrow and always dirty
alley intervening. It has much commerce, and is

LAMOO. 365

populous, being decidedly one of the best stations
upon the coast. In the centre is a large fortress,
about one hundred yards square, and surrounded
by walls from forty to fifty feet high. The
channel, as before-mentioned, is narrow, and, had
we depended upon our Arab pilot, he would cer-
tainly have run us ashore. The prows upon this
part of the coast are sharp at both ends, built
without any timbers, the planks being neatly laced
together with coir,* and carrying but one large
sail, made of matting: the boatmen appeared a
peaceable and friendly people, composed partly
of Arabs and Africans. They have, in addition
to their prows, some small canoes for fishing, and,
in order to give them confidence, we purchased
some of their cargoes. VVe also procured a bul-
lock, weighing two hundred and sixty pounds.
Captain Owen presented the Governor and
many of his principal officers with some copies
of the New Testament in Arabic, with which
they were much pleased, and in return sent him a
quantity of fine fruits. Their notions of Chris-
tianity were evidently taken from the Portu-
guese, whom they considered as stupid idolaters.
“ For,” said these people, “ they first cut a piece of
wood into the figure of either a. man or a woman,
and then worship it.” Every reasonable man must
agree with Sir W. Jones, that Mohammedan-
ism is but a sect of Christianity. Its professors
are in every respect as much Christians as the

“ Rope made from the husk of the cocoa-nut.

366 THE GOV ERNOR’S VISIT.

Arians, Unitarians, or Socinians, and their prac-
tice, if not faith, is purer than that followed by
1 the Romish Church. They acknowledge the
Divine founder of our religion as a prophet of
God, and believe Mohammed to have been gifted
with the same inspiration, but that his services
were more immediately directed to the Arabs.
Perhaps there are no people who would listen
with more attention and advantage to the sub-
lime lessons of the Gospel than the humble fol-
lowers of Mohammed; neither can there be any
doubt that all which is good in the Koran was
drawn from that sacred volume.

Before leaving this place, the Governor, Seid
Séf benflHamed, came on board to dinner, and
was received with military honours. From him
we learnt that the inhabitants of Patta had placed
themselves, with all their dependencies, under
the protection of the Imaum of Muskat; and it
is desirable that the whole of this coast should
be united under his government, for not until
then will the British have power to put an ef-
fectual termination to the slave-trade. The Go-
vernor requested Captain Owen to give what
orders be pleased for the guidance of the prows
proceeding northwards, should they fall in with
any vessels engaged in this illicit traffic. He had
already published the orders of the Imaum, which
gave authority to any of His Majesty’s ships to
seize vessels carrying slaves southward of Quiloa,
or Cape Delgado.

Having received on 'board eight bullocks at ten

STATE or AFFAIRS AT MOMBAS. 367

dollars each, ten sheep at three and a half, and a
plentiful supply of good water, on the 4th of Fe-
bruary, we continued our course to the south-
west, passing several islands and the mouth of the
river Ozy, which appeared rather shallow and
small. On the 7th, we saw the British colours
flying on the fort of Mombas, and the Imaum’s
fleet of chelingas employed in the blOckade; we
fired a gun for a pilot, which was answered by
the largest of these vessels, when the commander
came on board in his boat to conduct us in; and
shortly after we had anchored, the fighting cap-
tain of the Imaum’s expedition waited on Captain
Owen.

Lieutenant Reitz immediately went gap shore
with the interpreter, and was saluted on landing
with five guns; but he shortly returned with a
son of the Sheik’s, who informed us of the
Imaum’s endeavours to subjugate them, and their
exertions to defend their liberty and rights which
they had so long been fighting for. He stated that
they had now collected twenty-five thousand men,
but, having no ships, they feared that they could
not succeed without the assistance of the English.
In fact, he recapitulated all the arguments before
used to Captain Vidal, and concluded by request-
ing Captain Owen’s permission to place them-
selves under the British Government and hoist
the English colours. He also brought a letter
from Captain Vidal written in English, and ad-
dressed to Soliman ben Hoffman ben Alli ul
Mozrow, the Sheik. This letter was unopened,

368 UESSION or COUNTRY.

as they imagined it was intended for us. It was
‘ to request permission to survey the place and
obtain a supply of bullocks, but being written in
good English round hand, those to whom it was
directed were quite in ignorance of its contents.
After this interview, the Prince partook of some
coffee, and was shortly after landed.

The following morning, Captain Owen went
on shore, when he was met by the chiefs who
conducted him to a room in the castle, where the
members of the Council were assembled to receive
him. They acknowledged having hoisted the
English colours without any authority, but unani-
mously craved permission to place the whole
country under the protection of the British na-
tion. Captain Owen informed them that, pro-
vided they would consent to the abolition of the
slave-trade, he would transmit their proposal to
his Government for their decision, and that he
should have no objection to hold the place in
the mean time. To these conditions they readily
assented, and made a formal cession of their
' island, that of Pemba, and the country from Me-
,linda to Panghany. Our third Lieutenant, Mr.
John James Reitz, was made Commandant, and
Mr. George Philips, (midshipman,) a corporal of
marines, and three seamen, were appointed to
remain with him until further instructions should
be received.

Shortly after this interview, the Commander
of the blockading squadron waited upon Captain
Owen, by the order of the Imaum, to express his

PEMBA, on GREEN ISLAND. 369

readiness to obey his commands in any respect.
He was accordingly directed to send a pilot on
board for Pemba, and upon the Leven’s sailing,
to follow with his fleet for that place. When
this political arrangement was made, the Imaum’s
chelingas anchored near the town, and were soon
on most friendly terms with the inhabitants.
Soliman Ben Alli, the then chief of Mombas,
was an old dotard who had outlived every passion
but avarice.

Captain Owen having promised to convey
Prince Mombarrok, the hereditary chief of
Mombas, and fifty of his men to Pemba, they
were embarked on the night of the 13th, when
we got under weigh, and were shortly followed
by the Imaum’s chelingas. The natives behaved
with great propriety, cooking their meats after
our people had dined. The prince lived with
the captain.

On the 15th, we anchored, with the chelingas
near us, off the fort of Pemba, known by the
Arabs as U1 Huthera, or Green Island. It is
strange that we should have been so long in ig-
norance of this fine port, called Masal u] Chak
Chak, and which Captain Morsely describes as
having no anchorage but numerous reefs, while,
on the contrary, we could see no reefs, but found
a good and secure anchorage. It is besides one
of the most fertile islands in the world, luxu-
riant vegetation springing spontaneously from
the soil, and abounding in excellent ship-timber.
We sent a boat on shore for stock, which soon

VOL. I. 2 B

o

370 THE PERSEVERANCE.

returned with twenty head of cattle and a con-
siderable quantity of fine fruit, being a present
from the Imaum. The captain directed Abdallah
Ben Saleyam, the fighting captain of the Imaum’s
squadron, to proceed to Mongallow, and seize three
vessels under Christian flags that were trading
for slaves, which he promised to do upon re-
ceiving an order “in the name of God and the
Imaum,” according to the Mohammedan form.
Having landed the prince and his people, we
again got under weigh along the coast, until
we made Zanzibar, when we anchored off the
town, and letters from Captain Vidal were brought
on board, stating that he had concluded the
survey as far as 6" 28’ S. Captain Owen went
on shore the following day, to wait upon Abdallah
Larkbree, who presented him with a letter from
the Imaum, which he had sent to this place
to await the Leven’s arrival. In the harbour

% was a Greek ship belonging to Mohammed Ali,

Pacha of Egypt, a vessel of Muskat, the Per-
severance of Mauritius, and a great number of
chelingas.

The Perseverance had been for more than a
year employed salting beef at Madagascar, and
was the same vessel from which we had obtained
thirty casks of provisions, as mentioned in a former
part of this narrative. The master, whose name
was Delostelle, had recently sailed in a schooner
for Seychelles, leaving his boatswain and two
others in charge; the former upon our arrival re-
paired on board to Captain Owen with the ship’s

INGRATITUDE. 371

papers, followed shortly afterwards by the crew
of lascars, who came to complain of their treat-
ment. It appeared by their statement that they
been obliged to quit the vessel on account of
had having nothing to eat, and that for seventeen
months’ service they had received but one month’s
wages. They were ordered by the captain to
return on board the vessel, when he directed the
English resident to give each of them one month’s
pay, and the same allowance of provisions usually
supplied to lascars in India.

Before leaving the port, a chelinga arrived
from Mombas with letters from Lieutenant Reitz,
by which it appeared that his opinion of the
people of Mombas was not so favourable as hither—
to, affording another lesson of human ingratitude
and the inconsistency of our nature. When hope—
less of relief, and fearful of the power of the
Imaum, they appeared all virtue and patriotism;
but now that they were freed from their difficul-
ties, all their obligations were forgotten : but why
should we find fault with the people of Mombas
for a failing which is general among mankind?

On the 23d we continued our course, in the
hope of falling in with the Barracouta. Our
pilots were possessed of little information re-
specting this part of the coast, and we could not
help suspecting that Seid ‘Larkbree had pur-
posely supplied them on that account, and had
sent to Lindy and other ports to apprise the
slave-dealers of our approach and hostile inten-
tions. This conclusion was in a great measure

2 B 2

3'72 PORTS AND BAYS.

confirmed by a knowledge that he possessed the
entire monopoly of the traffic at Zanzibar.

W e directed our course so as to pass between
Latham’s Bank and Monfeea, but a strong land-
wind with much rain coming on, we were not
enabled to discern the bank until day-light the
following morning, when we found that we had
passed it within four or five miles during the
night. This must be considered as a most pro-
vidential escape, for although we were constantly
sounding, we might have struck upon the bank
without having had the slightest indication of its
vicinity. Continuing along the coast, we passed
many coral islands, the greater part being formed
upon the same bank. The next port we made was
Lindy, which is situated at the bottom of a deep
bay formed between reefs, which in some parts
extend two or three miles from the land. On the
same day we passed the Mandarin’s Cap off Mi-
kindany, another port; but we could not perceive
any vessels in either, and a boat that we met during
the day informed us that there were none upon
the coast.

From this last place we steered for the penin—
sula of Mizimbaty, the bay of which is formed by
the isles of Manakoohanga, but the whole appeared
to us blocked by reefs: our pilots said there was
no passage but at high water, and that Mizimbaty
itself was then insulated, but we could place but
little faith upon their statements. This place has
been rendered famous in the history of Eastern
Africa by the following event: A few years

BAY OF MIZIMBATY. 373

since the Malegash, during their predatory ex-
cursions, pillaged and destroyed every place north
of Ibo to Monfeea, which island they seized, with
about three thousand slaves and all the moveable
property they could find. They were about to re-
turn to Madagascar when the account of their
ravages reached Zanzibar, where the Arabs imme-
diately equipped twenty chelingas, each carrying
several guns, with which they pursued them. The
Malegash had put into the Bay of Mizimbaty, and
seeing an opening between it and the main, they
endeavoured to pass through, under the impression
that it would lead them to the islands south of
Cape Delgado; but, instead of this, their whole
fleet ran aground, where it was left by the tide
an easy conquest to their pursuers, who shortly
afterwards arrived and destroyed them Without
mercy.

We were surprised by the appearance of shoal
water near the south point of Mizimbaty; but,
upon sending a boat to sound, we discovered that it
was produced by the great river Rovooma, which
here empties itself by two mouths into the bay.
This is said to be a considerable river, but our
pilots knew no more of it than its name, and that
its water may, during the rainy season, be taken
up at sea perfectly fresh. From the vast stream
that we saw rushing out of this river, we were
led to imagine that, next to the Zambizi, it is the
most considerable on this side of Africa. We
looked in vain for the long disputed Cape Del-
gado, as, in the situation assigned to it, no such

374: PICOS FRAGOS.

cape exists; but at length we found that which
the. Portuguese have so designated, and from
which they claim dominion. All who have
written concerning this point are in great con-
fusion and error, it being in 10° 42' south, and
as well defined as Start Point. Upon our arrival
off Ibo we made the signal for a pilot, which was
answered by a gun from the fort.

Shortly afterwards an officer came on board,
bringing a letter from Captain Vidal, informing
us that the Barracouta and Albatross had left
only five days previous, and that they intended
to be at Mozambique about the 10th of March.
Captain Vidal also informed us that they had
experienced much sickness on board since leaving
Zanzibar, and it is worthy of remark that the
crews of all vessels, after watering at that place,
have been subject to dysenteries and fever. The
instances of this are, Admiral Blanket’s squadron,
the Menai, the Andromache, and now the Barra—
couta: this applies more particularly to the river-
water, as that procured by digging, or from wells,
does not appear to possess the same deleterious
property.

Being anxious to rejoin the Barracouta, we
continued our course towards Mozambique. \Vhen
off Picos F ragos (broken hills), we saw her sur-
veying the coast upon which these extraordinary
hills are situated, which, as they never have been
noticed, merit from their singular character a
slight description. They extend nearly twenty
miles, varying in their approach to the sea. \V hen

PICOS FRAGOS. 375

seen from a short distance they appear like the
ruins of some giant city, but, upon a nearer view,
they are seen to be the fragments of a range of
mountains split into numerous fantastic shapes,
and strewed over the wild tract which they
cover. They are diversified in size and height
from the cloudcapped pinnacle, with a yawning
chasm beneath, to the crumbling mound of almost
ant-hill dimensions.

The Barracouta immediately joined us, when
Captain Vidal came on board to report his pro-
ceedings, as related in the following chapters,
extracted from a journal kept by Lieutenant
Boteler.

376 BOTELER’S JOURNAL.

CHAPTER XX.

Boteler's Journal.—Distressed Fugitives.—-Steer for Patta.—
Native timidity.—Visit from a Chief.—Island of Patta.——-
Conquest of Patta by the Imaum of' Muskat.—Arab Dows.
—Lamoo.—Buildings and Costume.— Military Weapons.—
Arab Fortification.—Arab VVomen.—Education and Food.—
Coasting Trade—The Galla.—— Surprise of the Arabs.—A
Hog—Survey to the Southward.— Shooting Elephants.—
Dread of Fire-arms.—-—An accident.

We parted from the Leven on the 15th of
October, and in company with the Albatross pro-
ceeded to survey the coast from Patta, situated
in lat. 2° south, to Mozambique. We passed
through the Comoro Islands with a strong
wind, and on- the 22nd, when about eighty miles
from the land of Africa, with almost a cahn
prevailing, we observed in the early part of the
afternoon a distant white speckron the water,
apparently slowly approaching. It was supposed
to be a large bird of the albatross species, magni-
fied beyond its natural size by refraction, and it
was only just before a breeze sprung up that it

DISTRESSED FUGITIVES. 377

was discovered to be a boat. We arrested our
course instantly, feeling confident that nothing
so small would be out so far from the land from
any other cause than necessity.

As she approached, we perceived her to be a
large canoe, with a sail formed by a small piece of
blue dungaree and an old cotton sheet. In her
sat four black men, haggard and emaciated in
their appearance, while a fifth lay stretched at
full length under the seats, apparently in a dying
state. They lowered their sail, and seemed to
hesitate whether or not they should venture on,
board; upon which we endeavoured to remove their
fears by friendly motions to advance, and by means
of one of our seamen, who spoke a little Arabic.
‘Ve imagined of course, that they belonged to
the coast, but by venturing too far out had been
blown off. To our astonishment they replied in
French, inquiring in a most anxious manner
if ’we were of that nation, and on receiving an
answer to the contrary, they uttered a cry of joy
and paddled alongside as fast as their little re-
maining strength would allow.

Upon coming on board it was evident that

“ Famine, despair, cold, thirst, and heat
Had done their work on them by turns;”
and it was some time before they were suflici-
ently recovered to make us acquainted with their
history.

It then appeared that they were from the Sey-
chelles Islands, where, oppressed by the cruelty
of their master, a Frenchman, they seized his

378 DISTRESSED FUGITIVES.

canoe and quitted the small island, one of the
Amirantes, where they had been left without an
overseer. Not knowing which way to steer, and
careless of the port they might reach, all places ap-
pearing preferable to that from which the tyranny
of their master had driven them, they had taken
what articles they conceived might be serviceable,
and amongst them was fortunately the curious
sail before-mentioned, to which they owed their
preservation, as the glare of the sun upon the
white sheet first attracted our attention, which
the dark shade of the boat would otherwise
never have done. They had a little fish, some
rice, and about a gallon of water upon commen-
cing their arduous voyage, but from never having
experienced the necessity of looking to the future,
they im'providently consumed their little store in
the first few days, and when picked up by us
were in almost the last stage of starvation, and
certainly could not have survived more than a day
longer without nourishment.

The poor negro who was lying at the bottom
of the boat had been rapidly sinking for the last
three days, and when taken on board, joyfully ex-
pressed the happiness he felt at escaping from a
fate which he before considered as inevitable ; yet
how short the delusion I How like the many and
transient joys of this life! His pulse was gone,
and in less than an hour he expired from mere
debility, sensible to the last, and still clinging to
the hope of life and liberty. The rest by care and
attention survived, but remained in a dreadfully

STEER FOR PATTA. 379

weak and debilitated state for a considerable time.

-; Seventeen notches in the side of their canoe, indi-

cated the many days of misery and distress they

’ had passed during this voyage of seven hundred

, and fifty miles, a distance scarcely credible, consi-

dering the means they had for its performance.

We were now near the spot where our opera-
tions of survey were to commence. During
the night following this rencontre, steering, as
we imagined, directly for Patta, an intervening
current, of which we were not aware, carried us
several miles to the northward, which distance we
in vain endeavoured to regain ”by keeping in
shore. We were at last compelled to stand out to
sea, and there, beyond the influence of the cur-
rent, succeeded in beating up sufficiently to the
southward to reach a large bay, answering in lati-
tude that assigned to Patta, but in no way resem-
bling the chart furnished us of that place, and
its neighbourhood.

The sea view of the country presented a lively
and varied appearance of hills covered with ver-
dure and well wooded lowlands; but the shores
within the bay exhibited a gloomy contrast of
swamps and mangroves. We saw also numerous
small coral islets, seldom of a greater height than
twelve feet, and generally overhanging the rocky
flats on which they stood. The summit of the
heights was level, and, from the constant decom-
position of the coral, presented a surface of sharp
points, over which it was difficult to pass. We re-
mained in this bay for four days, vainly attempting

380 NATIVE TIMIDITY.

to communicate with the natives, whom we saw
constantly paddling about in their short canoes;
but, in consequence of petty wars and the slave
traffic, they were so timid, that whenever our
boats approached, they took shelter on the shal-
low flats skirting the shore.

As our stock of water was much diminished,
it was necessary to come to some understand-
ing with them, in order to obtain an additional
supply; but, finding that they still persisted in
shunning us, it was determined to seize by force
the first that We could get hold of, and by friend-
ly treatment of him overcome the fears of the
rest. Unfortunately, an attempt made for this
purpose upon a canoe, in which was an Arab and
his slave, was unsuccessful, and only tended to
increase their apprehensions; and it was not until
the fourth day after our arrival that we succeeded
in securing three natives, who were brought on
board.

Shortly afterwards we were rejoiced at seeing
the Albatross enter the bay, having been for some
time anxiously expecting her arrival. She had
also been carried to the northward by a strong
current and contrary winds, but at length suc-
ceeded in getting back to Patta. Her people were
quite confounded at having found both the Wind
and current so different from what their calcula-
tions had led them to expect.

The natives whom we had brought on board
were, by the kind treatment and presents they
received, soon rendered confident. When once

VISIT FROM A CHIEF. 381

assured of their safety, they entered freely into
;conversation with the interpreter, and informed
irihim that this bay was bounded on one side by
ithe island upon which Patta was situated. On
Ffbeing questioned respecting their fear of ap—
gproaching us, they answered, that they imagined
iwe were Frenchmen, who in many instances had
kidnapped their countrymen from the canoes and
, sold them into slavery.
In the evening these people were landed, and
f in all probability we were indebted to their report
i for the visit we 'received on the following morn-
:ing from a venerable old Arab chief, of the vil-
ilage of Krinyhettey, a small place just within
; the bay. He was sent to us by the Governor of
Patta, together with a native of that place who
spoke a little English and a Muskat soldier, to
enquire who we were, and, if belonging to his
i Britannic Majesty, to tender civilities in the name
of ~ their sovereign, the Imaum of Muskat. VVe
learned that no water could be obtained either in
Kwyhoo Bay or at Patta, but, as we ascertained
by a commuication with the Governor of Lamoo
that we might at any time procure it from
[that place, we surveyed the two bays. That
of Kwyhoo is large, and abounds in reefs, shoals,
and extensive flats, ending in a cluster of islands,
between which the stream of a large river emp-
ties itself by several channels into the sea.
The island upon which Patta stands, and which
forms the southern side of Kwyhoo Bay, is bound-
ed by hills, and divided from the main land by a

382 ISLAND or PATTA.

narrow, sandy creek, through which boats only
can pass to the town and thence to the bay
of Patta, situated to the southward of Kwyhoo
just described, and which it much resembles.
Little of the early history of Patta is known, but
it was formerly a place of much greater import-
ance than at present : its decline is, perhaps, more
owing to the miserable and corrupt government
of the Arabs than to any other cause; though much
of its trade is now absorbed by Lamoo. At the
time the Portuguese became masters of the coast,
they established Patta as one of their holds, and
built a castle, the ruins of which still remain, and
form a proud contrast, by the solidity of their
construction, with the wretched mud habitations of
the Arabs, by which it is surrounded.

The invaders did not remain long in undis-
turbed possession, as the natives were ever on the
alert to regain their lost liberty. In this they
ultimately succeeded, but at what period is not
exactly known. Since that time this place appears
to have undergone a variety of changes; sometimes
it has been independent, at others under the go—
vernment of the 'Imaum of Muskat, or the Sheik of
Mombas. In 1720 it was in possession of the former
power, but during the early part of 1812 was again
independent; when the inhabitants finding they
were likely to be once more subjugated by the
Imaum, against whom they entertain great en-
mity, solicited the aid of the Mombassans, but, for
this protection, they delivered up their territory,
upon condition that the native prince should still

SUBDUED BY THE IMAUM or MUSICAT. 383 ‘

keep his title, and exercise his authority under
the directions of Prince Mombarrok, of Mombas,
who, with a military force, was constantly to reside
there. The part that Mombas took in this affair,
was the ostensible cause of hostilities between
that place and the Imaum, who in 1817 attacked
Patta with thirty dows and four thousand men.
Some particulars of this expedition we obtained
from the ex-Sultan Boanamko.

Twice the Imaum’s forces were vigorously re-
pulsed, but, incited to a third effort by the over-
tures of some discontented persons amongst the
besieged, they gained that by treachery which
they had ceased to expect by force.

The respect which their opponents had taught
them by their courageous defence was, however,
evident, for Mombarrok, with his handful of men,
not above sixty, and the ex-Sultan, were allowed
openly to retreat unmolested. A party of this de—
posed prince’s soldiers afterwards established them-
selves in some of the more distant parts of his
dominions on the river Ozy, and in the great bay
of Formosa, holding them for Boanamko.

From this period Patta has remained in the
hands of the Imaum, and is garrisoned by his
soldiers. The town is small and scattered, the
houses and huts being in the true Arab style of
misery and filth. They are generally of an oblong
form, standing east and west, composed of reeds
and stakes well plastered with mud; the roof is
not made to rest upon the wall, but is support-
ed by rafters a few feet above the eaves, pro-

384 ARAB DOWS.

jecting far beyond the building. As we ap- u
proached the land, the appearance of activity and
commerce was extremely pleasing, the large boats
or, as they are called, dowsfi‘ were passing in all
directions, principally freighted with the pro—

duce of the soil, and coasting along the shore.
‘ As strangers, their extraordinary construction did

not fail to attract our attention. They are gene-
rally sixty feet long by about fourteen broad,
their stem terminating in a long sharp point,
with a lofty and overhanging stern; and, as they
are built like a wedge, upon grounding they are
obliged to be kept in a perpendicular position,
by means of small wooden shores which they
always carry for the purpose. Their planking is
more frequently secured to the ribs by coir lash-
ings than by either nails or bolts, and in some the
seats or beams project a short distance through the
side, like the boats of Delagoa and the Massula
boats of Madras. Their huge square sail of can-
vass or matting, has a yard above and one below,
with braces and three or four bow-lines; yet,
notwithstanding their uncouth appearance, they
are very swift, and sail much closer to the wind
than most vessels 2 they are always well manned,
and generally pull with sixteen oars or paddles,
excepting in shoal water, when they are propelled
by means of long slender poles used against the
ground, in the management of which the natives
are very dexterous. These dows have sometimes
a small canopied space near the stern, on which,

* This is an Indian or English term, as the name by which
they are known on the coast is chelinga.

f

LAMOO. ‘ 385

when prosecuting their voyage, the turbaned old
chief, or master, may often be seen issuing his
commands. They scarcely ever use iron anchors,
their usual custom being to make them formed
of wood, with four arms like a grapnel, and the
inside of the shank loaded with heavy stones.

Although at first we all looked with contempt
upon these readily constructed substitutes for iron,
yet we soon found that upon this hard rocky
coast they had a decided advantage over our own,
and the boats were in consequence supplied with
them. \Ve loaded them with shot instead of
stones.

On the 12th of November we anchored off
Lamoo, the harbour of which is formed by a
small river and the creeks running at the back
of Mandra. The Albatross shortly after proceeded,
and came—to off the town, when Captain Vidal
paid a Visit to the governor, who next day re-
turned it, accompanied by a suite of between
twenty and thirty Arabs. The town of Lamoo
is situated on the side and at the foot of a sandy
ridge of hills, forming the southern boundary of
the harbour, and contains a population of about five
thousand souls, inclusive of Muskat Arabs (who
are its present masters), Sowhylese, and slaves.

The buildings are of the same kind as those
already described, excepting such as are occupied
by the principal inhabitants, which are generally
erected on the ruins of some old Portuguese
house. The rooms in these are frequently orna—
mented with saucers; and in one belonging to an

VOL. I. 2 C

386 BUILDINGS AND COSTUME.

Arab of the first class was displayed an English
tea-tray, which, from the pride he betrayed in
its exhibition, was doubtless considered a very su-
perb decoration. Their mosques are built with
a flat roof, supported by low clumsy arches, and
the great reverence in which they are held is
evinced by the superior materials used in their
construction.

The costume of the inhabitants consists in a
carpet skuchap, nearly covered by a white em-
broidered turban ; a long white garment reaching
down to the ankles; a piece of cloth secured as a
girdle around the middle ; and on the feet sandals
of hide, attached by two straps, one passing just
above the instep, and the other descending from
it to the fore-part of the sandal, and separating
the great toe from the next. Poor, indeed, must
an Arab be, who is seen without a sabre hung
over his shoulder and a dagger by his side. In
richly embellishing the handles of these, be con-
siders the few dollars he can manage to scrape
together by painful self—denial, even of necessaries,
well laid out.

The Muskat soldiers are distinguished by a
circular shield pendent from their shoulders, about
a foot and a half in diameter, and in shape much
resembling the umbo of the ancient shields. They
are manufactured in great numbers at Zanzibar,
from rhinoceros hide, which, after being soak-
ed or boiled, is easily moulded into any form,
and then embellished by turning. Their swords
are always straight, and, from their long and

MILITARY WEAPONS. 387

guardless handles, bear‘a great resemblance to the
double-handed swords used some centuries back
in Europe. The thinness of the blade is account-
ed an excellence, on the supposition that, by the
vibratory motion when dealing a blow, a greater
impetus is given and a more deadly wound
inflicted: against such an idea an English dra-
goon, with his unyielding broadsword, would
prove the best argument. Independently of their
sword, shield, and dagger, the Muskat soldiers
carry a pike from seven to ten feet long, of rather
a peculiar make, having an iron head nearly
eighteen inches in length, with four slender pieces,
projecting at right angles about three quai te1s of
an inch, and then gladually tapeling towalds the
point.

The Muskat governor of Lamoo, Seif ben
Hamed, formerly commanded one of the Imaum’s
frigates. By his conversation he appeared to be
a shrewd, sensible man, and his manner, although
grave and sedate, was courteous and pleasing.
His countenance was strictly Arab; a high and
narrow forehead, large eyes, surmounted by arched
eyebrows, prominent cheek—bones, sharp aquiline
nose, and lips sensibly alive to every expression of
his mind. Like the generality of Arab gover-
nors, he made but little display of his official
dignity, and could never be distinguished from
those by whom he was surrounded, except on the
entrance of an Arab, who always first saluted him.
He was generally to be found sitting in the
guard-house, receiving the duties levied on goods

2 c 2

388 ARAB FORTIFICATION.

embarked or landed, out of which, we were in-
formed, his allowance as governor was paid.
Though he had once commanded a frigate, yet
he knew not how to ascertain the direction of
Mecca from Lamoo, which Lieutenant Owen
obtained for him at his particular request. The
method of saluting amongst these Arabs is by
kissing hands when two of the same rank meet,
but an inferior does not aspire to so great an
honour; he merely lifts the hand of his supe—
' rior to his lips, but very humbly kisses his own.
What a satire on form ! The homage paid to a
European monarch would be considered as an
insult by a petty Arab chief.

In the castle of Lamoo we witnessed the first
specimen of a modern Arab fortification. It had
no moat, but consisted of a large square building,
with a tower at each corner, but so lightly con-
structed, that in all probability the discharge of
its honey-combed ordnance would bring the whole
fabric to the ground. .By permission of the go-
vernor we were allowed to visit it. The entrance
was through a pair of massive folding-doors,
where was standing the porter, who, as the insig-
nia of his office, bore a stone batten in his hand.
The large vaulted entry was occupied by the
main-guard, consisting of about twenty Muskat
soldiers, lounging on the stone benches on either
side, with eye intent on vacancy, and armed with
shields, swords, and pikes, with a large assortment
of matchlocks suspended from the walls above,
resembling those used by the primitive small-arm
men of England.

ARAB WOMEN. 389

The castle itself consisted of three stories of
balconies, supported inside by arches. The area
was blocked up by miserable huts, from around
the corners of which many a stolen inquisitive
glance was shot from the dark full eye of the
Arab females, as, shrouded in their domino—masks,
they took a hasty look, and then, fearful of
observation, quickly retired from our view. The
practice of immuring these “ dark-eyed treasures”
leaves to a stranger but little opportunity to de-
scribe them; but, upon quitting the fort, some
again came to the door, and beckoned us to enter,
but on our approach hastily retreated and were
seen no more. Their dominoes shroud the greater
part of their face, leaving only the eyes, mouth,
part of the forehead, and chin, exposed. Their
gowns or robes, sometimes party-coloured but
more frequently white, reach about half-way
below the knee; they are made with long sleeves,
and so arranged as carefully to cover the bosom.
Many of these women are tall, majestic, and ele-
gant figures, but generally they are of low sta—
ture. Their retired habits of life, unexposed to
the sun, save their complexions from the darker
hue of the men, and place them in the class of
brunettes.

Some years since a plurality of wives was uni-
versal; but at present the practice has much fallen
into disuse. The men have learned, perhaps by
experience, that one woman is generally as much
as any man can manage; neither does the husband
take his wife blindfold, but previously to his pro-

390 EDUCATION AND FOOD.

posals for marriage he is allowed to visit her, and
if she does not meet with his approbation he is at
liberty to quit her, without being under any ap-
prehension, as formerly, of incurring the animo-
sity of her family.

There are four schools in the town where chil-
dren are taught to read and write, those of poor
Arab parents gratis, and the others atavery trifling
expense. They have boards of an oblong shape,
with the characters pricked upon them; and, as
soon as they are perfect in these, they have to
read and copy passages from the Koran, and after-
wards, with the assistance of their masters, they
expound them.

The food of the lower class of Arabs consists
principally in dhol* rice, cocoa-nuts, and a large
fish of the bonito species, salted and dried in the
sun. Though the higher differ so materially from
the lower orders in the luxuries of their table,
yet, with few exceptions, their drink appears the
same. Sherbet, and toddy, extracted from the
cocoa-nut treeflf is the only beverage of by far the
greater number. A few will venture to take
spirituous liquors ; but, in so doing, they are very
careful that none of their countrymen Witness it.
We expected to have found them by no means so
abstemious, concluding from their half-civilized
habits that one of the most judicious doctrines

* A small species of pea.

1- This is obtained by cutting off the fruit, baring the branch,
and hanging a vessel of earthenware, or perhaps a cocoa-nut
shell, beneath, to catch the fluid as it oozes out.

COASTING TRADE. 391

of their faith would have weighed but little in
the scale against self-gratification.

The coasting trade along their own possessions
consists principally in dhol and rice, conveyed in
the dows, some of which are upwards of two
hundred and fifty tons burthen. These vessels
are of the most primitive construction. They
seldom, or perhaps never, perform their voyage
but with the monsoons, (or periodical winds,
which alternately last for siX months,) going with
the one and returning with the other. The bulk
of their cargo is often composed of cowries, which,
in some parts of India, pass current for money.
These are collected from the reefs in great abun-
dance, and deposited in pits, until the fish be-
comes rotten and falls out. They generally
choose a retired spot for this depot, as the stench
that proceeds from them is “ wondrous unsa-
voury.” They likewise trade in dried fish. Their
bullocks are of the humped species, and their
sheep of the Tartar breed, very small, but the
flesh delicate and sweet. Lions, tigers, elephants,
and a great variety of other wild beasts, are
common; but the hippopotamus is rather rare.
Their fruit and vegetables consist of musk-me-
lons, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, cashew-ap-
ples, pompions, dhol, rice, peas, and beans; but
what ivory they possess is obtained from the
Galla.

These people are here considered a most fero-
cious and cruel race. The Arabs, whose huma-
nity and leniency of character generally obtains

392 THE GALLA.

for them the goodwill of the natives, dare not
venture into their country, but confine themselves
entirely to the sea-coast. The Galla are said to
have no houses, but wander through the woods in
the wildest state of barbarism. Professed ene- ‘
mies to every nation and tribe around them, they
hunt and are hunted, frequently committing in-
discriminate slaughter upon an unresisting multi-
tude to-day, and themselves becoming victims to
a similar treatment on the morrow. Like their
brother—savages of America, they consider a relic
from the body of a slain foe the most honourable
and distinguishing emblem they can wear of their
military prowess. When at their feasts, the most
successful amongst their warriors is rendered con—
spicuous by a number of certain dried members*
dangling from his arm, and the scalps of hairy
breasts and bearded chins covering all parts of his
body. They unite subtlety and want of faith
with their ferocity of temper; consequently, the
commerce between them and the Arabs is carried
on entirely in the towns of the latter. These
they will sometimes venture to harass, but sel-
dom with less than two thousand men, armed
with bows, arrows, and assagayes. Besides the
Galla, there is another race of savages in the
vicinity, termed Dowla, who are far more tract-
able and settled in their habits; and with these the
Arabs constantly traflic and keep up an amicable
understanding.

‘* 5; xs'gxog.

SURPRISE OF THE ARABS. 393

The country, we were assured, was exceedingly
fertile; but from our own observation we should
decidedly conceive otherwise. The Arabs also
praise the climate; but we never found a country
like this, abounding in sand-hills, swamps, stagnant
pools, and mangroves, any thing but destructive
to the life of Europeans. These people enter—
tained a very high opinion of our doctor’s skill;
and while the schooner was at anchor of the
town her decks were literally covered with pa-
tients, many of whom, although objects of na-
tural deformity, expected to be made perfect by
a pill or potion from our, worthy Galen.

Those Arabs who had visited English settle-
ments must have seen many things that were
novel, and on their return had, in all probability,
described them to their countrymen; yet the
ignorance that all displayed relative to the use of
various articles that we had on board, and their
curiosity and astonishment at witnessing their
respective purposes, produced much surprise. A
telescope or watch were magnets of attraction
that commanded the attendance of a crowd, and
their tone of admiration and remarks were, for
ignorance, quite on a par with those during the
interview with Prince Slangelly at Delagoa Bay.
A French mirror, with a magnifying-glass on one
side, and another of common power on the other,
was a general favourite, excepting when the glare
of the sun was reflected upon its shining face,
which made it immediately an object of super-
stitious dread.

394 HORROR PRODUCED BY A HOG.

A large hog on board the Albatross was the '
subject of universal disgust. The effect its pre-
sence had upon one of the first Arabs who went
on board was truly ludicrous. As he was about
coming on deck, he observed the beast close
to him; he instantly stopped short, and stood
petrified with religious horror, not attempting
either to retreat or to advance, but stood, with
his eye fixed on the object of his alarm, until, to
put him again in motion, it was driven away. He
then ventured on; but ever afterwards, like the
rest of his countrymen, was on his guard, lest the
unclean monster should approach to pollute him.

The Imaum of Muskat’s governors were order-
ed to supply English men-of-war with wood and
water gratis; but, from the habitual dilatoriness
of their character, we soon found at Lamoo that
using our own means, limited as they were, was
better than relying on their tardy proceedings.
We accordingly Obtained the water from a well
sunk close to the castle-wall and near the beach;
this was excellent when drawn at high water, but
at other times brackish.

With the view of Obtaining as much informa-
tion as possible respecting the various places along
the Arabian coast which we were about to survey,
Captain Vidal procured from the governor one of
the natives as a pilot and a Muskat soldier as an
interpreter. But neither was eventually of ser-
vice; for the former, although a respectable cha-
racter, knew not the coast; and the latter'fell as
far short in his knowledge of tongues as he did in

SURVEY TO THE SOUTHWARD. 395

knowing how to follow one of the wisest precepts
of his religion, “ abstinence from wine.”

After having received a visit of ceremony from
the governor, acCompanied by a large suite, we
left Lamoo on the morning of the 20th of No-
vember, and in company with the schooner con-
tinued our survey to the southward. In the after-
noon we anchored off the river Ozy, situated at the
depth of the northern extreme of Formosa Bay.
We did not examine this river, but received the
following description from the ex-Sultan of Patta.
It is one mile across at the entrance; but, although
deep inside and of great extent, it is difficult of
access, on account of a dangerous quicksand-bar,
over which, at low water, there is only four feet.

Just within this bar, on the south side, stands
the small town of Sanda, and twelve miles further
that of Kow. This place is built on an island in
the dominion of Patta, and possesses an extensive
independent territory by right of conquest, being
inhabited by Sowhylese and their slaves. They
have but few swords or matchlocks, but are well
supplied with spears and bows and arrows, in
the use of which they are particularly dexterous.
During the rainy season, the river rises and inun-
dates the surrounding country for many miles,
destroying innumerable wild beasts and animals of
various kinds, amongst the rest many elephants,
whose bodies, as they float down the stream, are
despoiled by the natives of their tusks: fish are
very abundant, as well as alligators and hippo-
potami.

396 SHOOTING ELEPHANTS.

Above the town of Kow, at every twelve or
fifteen miles, there are large villages on the
northern bank inhabited by the Pocomasa tribe,
subject to Sheik ben Hamed ; and at the distance
of fifteen days’ journey in a canoe, poling and
paddling from eight in the morning until sunset.
is situated the town of Zoobakey, beyond which
the current is too strong for further progress. The
banks are formed of sand, and the water near Zoo-
bakey our informant described as being of a deep
red colour. The country abounds with elephants,
sometimes caught in pits, but more frequently
shot with poisoned arrows by the Galla, who in-
habit the southern side of the river. When the
envenomed shaft is in the animal, they follow
him, until his monstrous frame is enfeebled and
his courage subdued by the subtle enemy working
within him, which soon renders him an easy and
unresisting prey, showing the victory of reason
over mere force. This monster, unless by the
agency of reason, never could have been brought
beneath the power of man, but, conquered by its
strength alone, he falls at his feet his most humble
and willing slave. The young savage who here
destroys him has not half so much intelligence as
the brute that he subdues; but one possesses only
instinct, while the other, gifted with reason, is
enabled to. obtain by sure and simple means that
which the other never could succeed in. The lamb
could not overcome the lion by force or stratagem
—instinct would teach it to fly, but never by any
subtlety to entrap or destroy its enemy; while

DREAD 01“ FIRE-ARMS. 397

man, by that which is “ stronger than strength,”
is enabled to subject the most powerful animal of
the creation to his will.

The Galla of this part of the country bear
the same savage character as those near Lamoo,
and are equally inimical to the Arabs; but the
chief of Kow contrives to carry on some little
> trade in ivory with them, by means of an annual
present to their chief, which is forfeited by any
act of hostility or robbery committed by his
subjects during the year. They have a great
dread of fire—arms, and will enter no house where
they are, and a recent occurrence had added
greatly to their terror. A party of Sowhylese,
who were on a mercantile expedition to the
interior, were attacked and plundered by the
Galla, notwithstanding their stipulations to the
contrary. Amongst the spoils was a matchlock,
which one of the savages, after some time, mus—
tered courage enough to approach and touch,
when, finding it did not resist his advances, he
got enamoured with its docility, and amused
himself for some time in examining and attempt-
ing to discover its use. But the novelty soon
ceased, and as it was rather a cumbersome orna—
ment, they determined to break it in pieces, and
divide the iron equally amongst all. A fire was
considered the readiest means of detaching it from
the wood; accordingly, one was kindled, and the
stock of the loaded matchlock placed within it,
the proprietor holding the muzzle, to keep it in
the flame. As it may be imagined, the unfortunate

398 AN ACCIDENT.

Galla soon found that if he had not (to use a
vulgar expression) “ the wrong sow by the ear,”
yet, at all events he had the wrong end of the
matchlock; for in a few seconds the explosion
took place, and he was laid dead before his com-
panions, one of whom was also wounded. This
occurrence is said to have put an end to their
hostile attacks upon the Sowhylese.

 

 

 

”I‘lfl’fl V‘Ir

 

     

 

 

 

(I

 

 

 

 

 

’3

THE LEOPARD’S BANK. 399

CHAPTER XXI.

The Leopard’s Bank—Memorial Pillars—City of Maleenda.—
Its Decline.—Arrival at Mombas.—-The Fortress .— Old
Portuguese Inscription—Interior of the Fort.——-Decline of
Arab Power.—Sheik of Mombas.———Prince of [Maleenda.——
An Offer of Territory.—The English Flag—Arab Repast.—-
Harbour of Mombas.——Commercial Facilities.-—-History of
Mombas.—Going without Arms.

ON the 24th we anchored in Maleenda* road,
off the Leopard’s bank, so termed from His
Majesty’s ship of that name, commanded by
Commodore Blanket, getting ashore during her
voyage to the Red Sea, when, not knowing how
to surmount the difficulty, she struck with vio-
lence on the most dangerous part of the reef,
and narrowly escaped being lost. This bank is a
sea-barrier to the anchorage of the old city of
Maleenda. Some rivers are known to exist a short
distance inland, and on the sea-shore is a small.
pillar surmounted by a cross, which latter in the
course of the survey we visited. It is erected at

"‘ Melinda, as generally written.

400 MEMORIAL PILLARS.

the extremity of a narrow rocky promontory,
serving as pier to a small cove, which, from the
shallowness of the water, could never have been
used by any other than boats. Nine pillars were
set up on the west coast by order of the King
of Portugal, to record the date of discovery
and Christian sovereignty; and, although not
mentioned in history, yet, doubtless, these me-
mentoes existed on the east coast, as well as on
the west, and the pillar at Maleenda in all pro-
bability is one of the number, answering at the
same time the purpose of a land-mark, The nar-
row rocky promontory on which it stands has a
picturesque appearance, being covered with ver-
dure, and perforated by two natural archways.
It is perfectly flat at the top, and elevated above
the sea about twelve feet. If ever there existed
an inscription upon this pillar it is totally ob-
literated, as not a line can now be traced; but the
marble cross on its summit exhibits the arms of
Portugal in full preservation.

It is probable that V asco de Gama might have
erected it during his voyage to India; for the
people of Maleenda, who were in want of his
assistance, were not likely to prevent his establish—
ing this shadow of sovereignty. At Mombas
he met with treachery, but at Maleenda the in-
habitants, who were engaged in a war with those
of the former place, received him with open arms,
entered into an alliance with him, and on his
departure supplied him with trustworthy pilots
to conduct him to Calicut.

CITY OF MALEENDA. 401

He relates that he found “ the city of Maleenda
pleasantly situated on a plain near the sea-shore,
surrounded with gardens and entertaining houses,
neatly built of hewn stone, with handsome rooms
and painted ceilings.” The haven or port he
describes as lying some distance from the city,
and the landing-place dangerous and diflicult of
access on account of the rocks.

. This statement was in some degree corroborated
by our own observations. In 1505 the Portuguese,
~under Don Francisco D’Almeyda, took posses-
sion of Maleenda, but how long it remained in
their hands is uncertain. About one hundred and
thirty years afterwards, it appears again to have
been attacked by the governor of Mombas. This
record we obtained from an inscription over the
gate of Mombas Castle, but as the writing is in
old Portuguese, we could not clearly understand
whether Maleenda was described as being entirely
reduced under the dominion of, and garrisoned
by, the Portuguese, or merely rendered tributary
to them. The period of its final destruction is
not known, although the commencement of its
decay in all probability took place shortly after
the conquest of Portugal in 1580 by the
Spaniards, who, as they were at the same time
prosecuting a war in the Netherlands, entirely
neglected the protection of their newly-acquired
possessions in the east. The consequence of this
was, that those in Africa who resided in cities
not well defended were compelled to resort to
such as were. Another reason for the decline

VOL. I. 2 D

402 DECLINE or MALEENDA.

of Maleenda was its constant wars with Mombas,
till that place was conquered by the Portu-
guese, which induced the European merchants,
those of Goa and the Banyans, to fly to Mombas,
and the strength of Maleenda failed with its com-
merce. The Sowhylese, the native inhabitants of
the country, and the slaves, alone remained, who,
hitherto trusting to others for their defence, were
ill able to maintain the city against the attacks of
such formidable enemies as the Galla, by whom
there can be little doubt it was ultimately taken
and destroyed; and as a descendant of the native
kings of Maleenda was still living at Mombas, it is
more than probable that those of the inhabitants
who escaped fled to that place for protection.

The territories of the ancient kingdom of Ma-
leenda are at present totally occupied by the
Galla, who are much dreaded by the Arabs in
their coast navigation; and our pilot informed us
that they never attempted to land, as the enmity
of these savages is so great that they are con-
stantly on the watch to entrap them.

Our survey of the Leopard’s Bank was com-
pleted by the 28th of November, when we weighed
and continued towards Mombas, passing on the
way a small river called Killeefy, where there
formerly existed a large town, which, many years
back, after being repeatedly harassed by its more
powerful neighbours, was finally attacked by the
Galla, who burnt the place, and butchered its
unfortunate inhabitants.

The whole of one day, while proceeding along

ARRIVAL AT MOMBAS. 403

the coast, the surface of the sea was covered by
a species of animalcula. ‘We mentioned this
circumstance to some Arabs at Zanzibar, who
stated -that it was a common circumstance at
certain periods of the year.

On the 3d of December we arrived at the cele-
brated port of Mombas, on the venerable old
castle of which the red flag of the Arabs was
flying. It was late when we anchored, and there-
fore no communication with the shore took place ;
but in the morning the nephew of the Sheik or
Sultan, named Mombarrok, came on board with
a retinue of twenty-six persons, and, in the name
of his uncle and the people of Mombas, begged
Captain Vidal to authorize them to hoist the
English flag, and place their town and territory
in the hands of his Britannic Majesty. As this
offer required some deliberation, it was agreed
that the answer should be deferred until the fol-
lowing day, when Captain Vidal, feeling himself
indisposed, sent Lieutenant Boteler to convey the
result of his determination. '

“ On landing,” says that ofi’icer, “ I was com-
pletely hemmed in by a number of men and boys,
who seemed determined to set no bounds to their
curiosity. My sword, hat, and every article of
apparel, underwent as strict an examination as the
short time I had to wait for the Sheik’s nephew
would admit. He soon arrived, with several more
Arabs, to escort me to the castle, to which we at
once ascended by means of a log of wood over a
deep and apparently natural rent in the ground

2 D 2

404 THE FORTRESS.

leading to the moat, over which, opposite to the
entrance of the fortress, lay a huge mass of rock
that had always remained unhewn as a natural
bridge.

“ Here I was requested to stop, until the Sheik
and his divan were prepared to receive me, and
Arab dilatoriness allowed abundance of time for
the most critical examination. A massive por-
tion of rock, elevated some feet above that Which
forms the surface of the island, serves as an excel-
lent foundation for the substantial castle that the
Portuguese erected for its defence. It is cut down
so as to form a deep and broad moat, while the

 

 

LAND GATE, MUM HAS.

OLD PORTUGUESE INSCRIPTION. 405

masonry above rises as a continuance of the rock,
from which, until you are very near, it cannot be
distinguished. Thewhole exhibits the firm union
of natural strength, cemented by the ingenuity of
man. The entrance is a more modern erection
than the rest of the building, and has a grand and
imposing effect ; it projects over the moat, and is
much adorned by sculptured stone-work in high
relief. Its large folding-doors are studded with
iron spikes, projecting from pieces of hard wood,
shaped like the umbo of a shield; above which
a large tablet bears the following inscription, in
old Portuguese, the characters almost obliterated
by time, and mouldering fast into decay.

“ ‘ Em 1635, O Capitao Mor Francisco de Seixas
de Cabreira o foi desta Fortaleza por 4 annos,
sendo de idade de 27 annos, e redificou de novo,
e fes este Corpo de Guarda, e reduzio a Sua
Magestade a Costa de Melinde, achando a ale-
vantada pelo Rei Tirano, e fes lhe tributarios os
Res de Tondo, Mandra, Luziwa e Jaca, e deu
pessoalmente a Pate, e Sio, hum castigo nao
esperado na India, athe arazarlhe 0s lnuros;
apenou os Muzungulos; castigou Pemba, e os
Povos rebeldes, matando a sua custa os regulos
alevantados, e todos os mais de fama, e fes pagar
as pareas, to aviatas, negadas a Sua Magestade—
Por taes servicos o fes Fidalgo de sua Caza, tendo
ja despachado por otros taes co Abito de Christo,
co Mil reis de tenca, e 6 annos de Governador de
J afampatao, e 4 de Beligao, co faculdade de poder
nomear tudo a sua Vida e morte: sendo Vice-rei,

Pedro da Silva, A. D. 1639.’ ”

406 TRANSLATION OF INSCRIPTION.

“ ‘ In 1635, Francisco Xeixas de Cabreira was
Capitao Mor (governor) of this fort for 4 years,
and built this fortress, being then 27 years
old. He reduced to His Faithful Majesty’s
arms the coast of Melinde, having found the
country in a state of disturbance, occasioned by
the tyrannies of the king. He also made the
Kings of Tondo, Mandra (now Mandu), Laziwa
(now Oozee), and Jaca (now Chaka), tributaries.
He also went personally to Patte and Suvie, and
chastised them in a manner not before seen in
India. He razed their walls, and seized some
natives. He also punished Pemba, and its rebel-
lious subjects, executing, on his own responsi-
bility, the rebellious chiefs, and all others of note,
and caused the contributions that had been de-
nied, to be paid for his Majesty. For all which
services he was Inade a Lord of the Household,
and he had also granted to him the order of
Christ, with a thousand reas pension. He was
made governor, for six years, of J afampatao, and
four years of Beligao, with the privilege of dispos-
ing of them to his death : being Vice Roy, Pedro
da Silva, Anno Domini 1639.’ ”

“ The castle is of a quadrangular form, and,
notwithstanding its great size and dilapidated
state, it might, with little expense, be rendered
strong, especially those parts which the Arabs
have allowed to remain untouched; for so wretch-
ed is their masonry, that their attempts to repair
the Portuguese work have, in general, taken away
from. its strength. The interior of Mombas fort

INTERIOR OF THE FORT. 4:07

is a mass of indiscriminate ruins, huts, and hovels,
many of them built wherever space could be
found, but generally formed from parts of the
ruins matted over for roofs. When seized from
the Portuguese, every building within the outer
wall was thrown down, and the foundations torn
up to search for treasures supposed to have been
hidden there. The fine tank, which oncecon-
tained water enough for two or three years, can-
not now be traced without great difficulty. But,
wretched as the place is, it is now used as the
residence of the reigning family, whose retainers
constitute the garrison, amounting to about two
hundred men, women, and children.

“ After passing the large vaulted entry in
which some Arab soldiers were stationed, I was
conducted to a building which appeared to have
been originally occupied by the main-guard,
though now reduced in height, and covered by an
ornamented roof. This served as a council-cham-
ber. The Arabs sat on huge stone benches project-
ing from the walls, while, as a mark of attention,
two old—fashioned three-cornered chairs were
brought in for the accommodation of myself and
companion.

“ The appearance of the hovels around, the rag—
ged set that curiosity had collected at the windows,
and their general look of poverty and wretched-
ness, could not fail, in spite of the ostentatious
decoration of their arms, to excite surprise and
commiseration; for these were the people who
had successfully opposed the Portuguese, when, in

408 SIIEIK or MOMBAS.

the plenitude of their power, they sought bound-
less dominion upon these shores; and, in later days,
in fact up to the present moment, these Arabs had
firmly resisted the whole force of the Imaum of
Muskat. They had ever loved and nobly fought
for their liberty; but the power of their enemy
had increased, whilst their own had long been on
the decline, and they were now about to taste the
bitter cup of slavery. As a proof that they were
worthy of respect, it is only necessary to remark
that, although weakened, and in a great measure
stripped of their possessions, still the people of
Mombas were regarded with fear and admiration
by the inhabitants of the whole coast.

“ But to return to my narrative. Shortly after
we were seated, the Sheik entered, followed by a
venerable-looking man, with a long light spear in
his hand, who sat down by him on an elevated
seat. The Sheik was aged, tall, and thin, and,
although in his countenance the effects of time
appeared heightened by those of care and anxiety,
there still remained a mild and pleasing expres-
sion, perhaps the effect of Mohammedan educa-
tion, which teaches to speak little, and always
first to examine the words before they are uttered.
No particulars were entered into, but they seemed
very anxious that Captain Vidal should himself
come on shore, and were evidently embarrass-
ed by the place they were in being too public for
the nature of their communication. Yet, before
adjourning to one of more privacy, it was neces-

1‘ sary to await the arrival of the Sowhylese chief,

PRINCE or MALEENDA. 409

without whose Sanction nothing could be finally [
adjusted. After sitting for a short time he en-
tered, received and returned the salutes of those
assembled in a most graceful manner, then, giving
me a hearty shake of the hand, and a welcome in
broken Portuguese, he took his seat.

“ The appearance of this chief, who was the here-
ditary Prince of Maleenda and Portuguese Consul,
was striking; his countenance being strongly ex-
pressive of penetration and liveliness, which even
sixty-five years could not entirely repress, though
they served in a slight degree to temper. His sil-
very white moustaches afforded a strange contrast
to the darkness of his complexion, which differed
but little from that of the negro. He was of
short stature, slight, and well made; had on a
large turban, and was clad in a green garment.

“ The assembly broke up, and I was motioned
to accompany the Sheik and a select few of his
principal people into a small room on the rampart,
which, after we had entered the door, was care—
fully closed, and the subject of delivering up
Mombas to the English commenced. It was
opened by the Sheik, the old Sowhylese chief,
and two or three others. In an impressive man-
ner they dwelt on the constant efforts of the -Mom-
bassians to support their small territory against
foreign subjugation, of the feelings of liberty
their successes had grafted in their minds, and
of the heart-rending idea that it was now about
to be outraged, their privileges to be trampled
upon, and even their lives sacrificed to the resent-

410 AN OFFER OF TERRITORY.

ment of the Imaum of Muskat, for their patriotism
in defending their native soil from his grasp.

“ ‘ Not a post,’ they continued, ‘ had he gained
which was not defended to the last; but now, op-
pressed by numbers, their resources cut off, and
resistance hopeless, they had unanimously resolved
to give up their country to the English, who,
although differing so widely in religion and cus-
toms, yet ever protected the oppressed, and re-
spected the shrines of liberty.’ Much more was
said, but it was difficult to translate with suffi-
cient facility for noting down, yet was there elo-
quence and feeling enough displayed to grace a
greater nation and the most talented assembly.

“ Their cause was interesting, for the pleadings
of liberty are drawn from the deepest recesses of
the heart, and I could not but respect the digni-
fied and excited warriors, as each in his turn
tried to awaken my sympathies to their dis-
tressed situation. This measure of delivering the
place up to the English had long been contem-
plated, and during the last monsoon a proposal to
that effect had been transmitted to Bombay, but
no answer had yet been received, and the Imaum’s
forces were daily expected. In this emergency
they hailed our arrival as their last resource, and
wished, under our sanction, to hoist the English
ensign. ‘ For,’ resumed the old Sheik, (while pro-
ducing one which they had made for the purpose,)
‘ even supposing that this is not seconded by your
assistance, still, beneath its protecting shade, we
may defy our enemies; as the lamb trembles at the

ARAB REPAS’I‘. 411

lion’s roar, so will the lmaum shrink from that
which is the terror of the world.’

“ He concluded by requesting, in the name of
himself and the people of Mombas, that I would
hoist the British flag upon their castle. To this, ac-
cording to my instructions from Captain Vidal, I
objected, offering, however, to take charge of, and
forward by the first opportunity, any letter upon
the subject to the Cape, Bombay, Isle of France,
or Commodore Nourse; but they used so many
arguments, and were so earnest in their solici-
tations, that I began to think they intended to
make me hoist the English flag, either with or
without my consent. However, finding that I
was positive in refusing to accede to their wishes,
they altered their tone, and begged that if the
Captain could possibly leave his bed he would
pay them a visit.

“ Accordingly Captain Vidal and myself again
attended them upon the following day, but, as may
be supposed, the result was the same. When the
conference was over, we were invited by the Sheik
to partake of a repast at his dwelling. This was
prepared in the true Arab style; a large round
wooden tray was placed upon the table, and set
out with upwards of a dozen saucers, surmounted
by handsome covers, manufactured of straw dyed
yellow, finely worked, and resembling pointed
Chinese caps; these contained meat, fowls, and
eggs, generally cut into small pieces, and prepared
with sugar: there was likewise a great display of
swectmeats and rice cooked in a variety of ways,

412 HARBOUR OF MOMBAS.

but principally with a mixture of cocoa-nut water.
All these dishes were as remarkable for the ex-
cellence of their flavour as for the extreme clean-
liness with which they were prepared.

“ As soon as Captain Vidal, the Sheik’s nephew,
the Sowhylese chief, and myself, had finished
our repast, the remnants of the feast quickly
vanished before the active fingers, (for they used
neither knife, fork, nor chop-stick,) and voracious
appetites of the surrounding Arabs, who, al-
though of the highest rank, did not scruple to vie
with each other in obtaining the largest share
and the choicest bits.”

Perhaps there is not a more perfect harbour
in the world than Mombas. It possesses good
riding-ground at the entrance, sheltered by
an extensive reef on either side; an anchor-
age, which, from its vicinity to the coast, con-
stantly enjoys the sea-breeze; and a steep rocky
shore, in many places rendering wharfs unne-
cessary, and in others forming a shelving sandy
strand, where vessels can be hauled up and careen-
ed, favoured by a tide rising twelve or fourteen
feet.

The island is said to be three miles long by two
broad, surrounded with cliffs of madrepore, ca-
pable, by very little labour of being rendered
almost impregnable,—Nature having formed it
like a huge castle, encircled by a moat, over
which, at the back, there is but one dangerous
ford, passable only during low water of spring
tides. As to the commercial importance of Mom-

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COMMERCIAL FACILITIES. ' 413

has, or Whether it would be advantageous to
Great Britain to establish it as another post for the
enterprise of her merchants, this is a subject upon
which we decline entering; but every observation
we were enabled to make shall be stated, for
the information of those who are better able to
judge.

Facility of navigation constitutes one of its
greatest recommendations; as, by a proper at-
tention to the monsoons and currents, voyages
both to and from Mombas may be effected with
safety and certainty at all seasons. Goods sent
from England to that port could be conveyed by
the Arab dows along the whole line of coast,
where they would meet with a sure market, and
the expense of these vessels would be ‘very trifling.
‘glts soil produces abundance of corn, and the
f'sugar-cane thrives well. As a possession of the
English, it would be an excellent port for ships
passing through the Mozambique Channel, either
as a retreat from an enemy, or, in case of necessity,
to refit. The navigation would be better known,
and the communication by this route to India
more frequently attempted, while a lucrative
trade might be entered into with Madagascar.
In conclusion, our holding DIombas as a military
station would be one of the most effectual steps
towards the entire civilization of Eastern Africa
and the suppression of the slave-trade. The \Van-
yekas, who inhabit the country for some miles in-
land, are not so blind to their own interests, wild
and savage as they are, as to neglect commerce,

414 HISTORY or MOMBAS.

and through them the native productions might
be obtained at a very trifling cost.

On this coast cowries are abundant, and the
Arabs informed us that small quantities of gold
were occasionally procured. Mombas appears for-
merly to have been a place of great consideration,
yet but little mention is made of it in history.ale

* The following account or" the early history of Mombas is
translated from an Arabic manuscript which we obtained there,
and is perhaps the only one in existence.

IN THE NAME or GOD, THE MERCIFUL, THE CLEMENT.

Praise to the Lord of all Worlds, and blessings and peace
on our Lord, Muhammad the seal of the Prophets. And then.
This is an antient tale about Mumbasat, and what passed there
between the Arabs of Umfin and the Portuguese, and those
inhabitants of the coast who were then at. Mumbasat.

It hath been reported to us by those who are worthy of
credit that the last of the Chiefs of Shiraz, who were sove-
reigns of Mumbasat, was Shahat son of Masham, and they
used to call him Shahat, or Mif’ta, and after him the chief's
came from Melinda.

Now, the Portuguese came to Mumbasat in the reign of
Shahat, and sent stones ready cut from Rainfi to Mumbasat,
and built the citadel which stands to this day, and garrisoned
it, and subdued the people of Mumbasat; and the inhabitants
of the coast were weak.

And they exercised oppression and tyranny there, and
went beyond all bounds. Then the inhabitants of' the coast,
could not bear their oppression, and deliberated about going
to Unian, to the Imam Sultan Bin Saif, the prince of that
country and tribe. So they went and complained to him of
the violence of the Portuguese and their tyranny in Mumbasat.
So he went with his army to Mumbasat to fight the Portu-
guese, and fought with them five years, till he drove them

 

HISTORY OF MOMBAS. 415

Vasco de Gama called at Mombas on his way
to India, when the houses, built of stone, with

out of the fort. So the fort fell into his hands, and he made
Muhammad Ibni Mubarak the Governor.
~ Then the Portuguese returned with troops to give battle
to the Arabs, and fought against them till they expelled them
from the fort; and they became supreme, and exercised their
violence, and vehemently oppressed those coast people who
dwelt at Mumbasat, and put them to death, because they had
gone to Uman and complained to the Imam. Thus, the coast-
people were unable to dwell at Mumbasat by reason of this
tyranny, and took counsel together, and their opinion was,
that they should flee to the Imam at Uman, and they went
accordingly. And the Imam, at that time, was Saif-ibnu-
Sultan, to whom they made their complaint. Then he marched
and fought with the Portuguese, and God helped him, and
he drove them out of the fort, and gave the command to
Nésir-bin—Abdullah of Mazrua. And there were in the fort
some retainers of the Imam, who rebelled; and they meditated
seizing the Governor, and giving the command to their own
chief, Saisah Rumbah, which they accomplished. Then they
sent to the people of Mumbasat, saying, that they had made
Saisah their Governor, and calling upon them to obey him;
but they replied, they would not submit to incompetent au-
thority, and that they should leave the fort. The rebels re-
plied, “ If the sun and the moon should descend from the sky,
we will depart from the citadel.” So they and the coast-
people went to war. The chiefs of the coast-people, at that
time, were :—

Shaikh-ibn-Ahmad of Melinda.

The Muallim Dav-ibn-Masliaf.

Mi-ghut-bin Zig.

MirMfil-bin Haj.
And while this was going on, God brought in the Portuguese,
which was thus :—

A man, of the nation of Battah, by name Mann? Hanid-bin-

416 HISTORY or MOMBASa

terraces and windows, made them almost imagine
it was a Spanish port, while the favourable feeling

Kib'ai, had a quarrel with the Prince of Battah, who was called
Banah Tam Makii. So Manni Hanid set off for Mozambique,
and invited the Portuguese to attack Battah, and they went
there with four ships. And when he arrived, he sent to the
Sultan, and said, “We are come to give you battle ;”-—-but
the Sultan said, “Come, let us agree; there is no use in
desolating our country.” So Manni accepted the terms of the
Sultan, and they made peace.

Then Manni Hanid said to the Sultan, “What shall we do
with the Portuguese; for I brought them out of their country
in expectation of war." The Sultan said, “The people of
Mumbasat are at war with their Governor, and they have
seized Nasir-bin-Abdallah the Governor; let us send the Por-
tuguese to them, and give them the possession of Mumbasat,
and get rid of them from our land.” Manni Hanid approved
of the scheme, and the Sultan set the army in order, and they
departed for Mumbasat in four ships, and seventy .mutag'f {ya/t,
(supposed to be small craft.)

And when they reached Mumbasat, they entered it by the
gate (or straits) of Kilindin, and they agreed with the people
of Mumbasat about attacking Saisah Rfimbah, and driving him
out of the fort: so they sent a messenger to him that he should
' leave the fort, and give it up to the Portuguese. He left it, there-
fore, without resistance, and the Portuguese obtained the do-
minion over the people of Mumbasat, and settled in the fort.
Then the Sultan of Battah took leave of the Portuguese, and
said he would return to Battah; adding, “I advise you to
punish these people, and to work them like slaves.” And he
returned.

The Portuguese acted upon his words, punishing the people
and treating them cruelly; and made their chief people serve
them, among whom was Shaikh-ibn Ahmad of Melinda: and
they flung stones at the people while they were at prayers; and
they used to turn the people out of their houses, and take
possession of them; and take their wives to themselves: till

HISTORY or MOMBAS. 417

that the first view had impressed upon their
minds was heightened by the apparent kindness

the people of Mumbasat were driven to despair, and could bear
it no longer. So they consulted together about resisting them,
and went to the Portuguese and said to them, “We have heard
that the Imam of Uman is coming with an army against Mum-
basat; what is your opinion ?” And they answered, “ What do
you say to it ?" They replied, “We think you should distri-
bute the paddy (rice in the husk) among the people, that they
may beat it out for you; and do not keep any of it back, but
lay up rice in store." They approved of this, and sent out all
the paddy which was in the fort, and divided it among the
people that they might beat it out; and there was but very
little paddy left in the fort. Then the people of Mumbasat did
not give back the rice to the Portuguese; but every one who
had received any paddy to beat out kept the rice. So when
the great festival of the Portuguese came, they all went out
of the fort to the feast; except a few, who remained in it:
and the coast-people surrounded them and slew them, and
seized the son of their Governor. And they fought, and the
Portuguese were defeated. Then the son of the Governor, who
had been made prisoner, sent to his father, saying, “ Make
peace with the people, and leave the fort; or else I shall be
slain; for I have no means of escaping from them.” So the
Portuguese made peace with the people of Mumbasat, and
asked quarter, and they gave them quarter, and sent them to
Mozambique, with their ships and their mariners. And then
Mumbasat was left without a sovereign. But those retainers of
the Imam who had seized upon .Nasir-ibn-Abdullah, and had
made their own leader, Saisah Rumbah, Governor, when the
Portuguese arrived, had been put in confinement with hand—
cuffs of iron. But afterwards the Portuguese released them, that
they might go where they pleased: they sent the Chief, Saisah
Rumbah, however, to Mozambique, where he remained till his
death; and Nasir they set at liberty, and he went to Unn'm.

Then the people of Mumbasat seized the keys of the fort,
and every tribe placed a man of their own in it, that nothing of

VOL. I. 2 E

418 HISTORY or MOMBAS.

with which they were received. Upon his ar-
rival, a boat came off with several of the prin-

what was in it should be lost. Then they went to Uman to the
Imam, and there went among them

Shaikh-ibn-Ahmad of Melinda,

Mi-ghut-bin-Zag of Kilindin,

Mishhat-bin-Dace of Tanjan:
And of the people of Mifta, there went one man of each tribe :
and of Vanikat, one man from each city; among whom were

Mayanij, of the people of Muta, and

Mamak, of the people of Tiv.
And the cities of" Vanikat, are Ribah, Shfini, Kambah, Gauma,
Jibz'mah, Rabayi, Jiryamah, Darvmah-Mutavi, Shibah, Lfighuh,
Dijfi. These people went to Uman to the Imam Saif-ibn Sultan,
and told him their situation with regard to the Portuguese, and
the wars that had been between them. So the Imam set out
with three ships; one called Kab-ras; the second, Malik; and
the name of' the third is not known: and he sent Muhammad-
ibn Saaid of Maamar as Governor of Mumbasat; and he granted
to the people of Mumbasat all that was in the fort, except the
gunpowder, the lead (or tin), and the copper. After that,
Salih-bin-Muhammad of Hazram went as Governor to Mum-
basat, and Muhammad-ibn-Saaid returned to Uman. Then
Salih-bin-Muhammad began to exercise violence in Mumbasat,
and was tyrannical over the people. So they complained to
the Imam, and he commanded them to seize him, and they
kept him in confinement for some time, and then released
him by general consent. And when they set him free, he made
war with Shaikh-ibn-Ahmad of Melinda and the people of
Kelindin ;.and they were unable to maintain themselves in
Mumbasat, and went to.Vanikat from fear of the Governor
Silih, and the people of Mifta were joined with Silih in
battle against Ibn Ahmad and the people of Kelindin.

Now it happened that Shaik-ibn-Ahmad had sent his son Ali-
Kfimbfi to the Imam before the war, and the Imam gave him
money and a horse, and when he came to Mumbusat he knew
nothing of the war, so Silih seized him with all his property.

1 , «new

HISTORY OF MOMBAS. 419

cipal people, who after welcoming them to their
country, promised every supply that the place

And when Shaikh-ibn-Ahmad heard of the arrival of his son, and
how he had fallen into the hands of Salih, he lost all patience,
and could not bear the loss of his son, and went to Salih. And
when he arrived Salih treated him with great respect and ho-
nour, and gave him supreme command in the fort, but treache-
rously. Then Salih had no provisions in the fort, so he went to
the island for provisions, ‘and he commanded his lieutenants that
Shaikh—ibn-Ahmad and his son should not leave the fort till he
returned from the island, and as soon as he came back he killed
them both.

Now it happened that, before this, Shaikh-ibn-Ahmed and his
son Ahmad-bin-Shaikh, and the Kilindinies with him, sent the
army of Vanikat to fight against the people of Mifta, who were
in the old town: so they killed them and plundered them,
because of their alliance with the Governor Salih in his war
against them.

Then a report reached the Imam of the wickedness of Silih
in the land, and his tyranny over the people; so the Imam sent
Muhammad-ibn—Othman to be Governor of Mumbasat, and
Salih returned to Uman. Then Muhammad-ibn-Othman sent
to Ahmad-ibn-Shaikh, and the men of Kilindin, who had gone
to Vanikat, that they should come to Mumbasat, that he and
they might make peace, and the land have rest. So Ahmad
and the men came and made peace with the Governor, and he
brought about a peace between them and the people of Mifta,
and the land had rest.

Then the Imam died at Uman, and Ahmad-ibn-Saaid of the
tribe of Bfi-saaid, took the chief authority there. So when the
Governor heard of the usurpation of Ahmad-ibn-Saaid in Uman,
who was not of the family of Imams, he also assumed indepen-
dent authority over thinbasat, and would not give up the
place to the Imam, and said, “ The Imam is a common man
like myself, he has usurped Uman, I have usurped Mumbasat."

And when the Imam heard the words of the Governor, he
sent Saif-hin—Khalat‘, Saif-bin-Nasir, Saif-bin—Saaid, and Saif-ut-

2 E 2

420 HISTORY or MOMBAS.

afforded, yet with the suspicious salvo, that, ac-
cording to the law of the place, they must first
enter the harbour.

Battash, and Maana-bin Kulaib to Mumbasat, that they might
use some artifice with the Governor and kill him. When they
arrived they used deceit, and said to him: “We have quar-
relled with the Imam, and are come to thee, swearing, that we
desire to be with thee, to halt where thou dost halt, to depart
whence thou dost depart, and we wish that thou wouldest give
us some money that we may travel to Kilvah and other places
to be seen.” And the Governor answered them according to
their desires, and whilst he was making preparation for their
journey, behold they used treachery and killed him, and they
put his brother Ali-bin-Othman in prison, with Khalaf-ibn-
Kazib, Abdallah-ibn-Khamis of Aafifi and they usurped the au-
thority in Mumbasat, and made Saif-bin Khalaf governor.

And there were in the fort Halfib-bin-Bashed and Hamid-
aud-Abdal-Balusshi, who were attached to Ali-bin-Othman, and
they lived in the fort; so they used a stratagem to send him
and his companions down, and they tied long pieces of raw
leather together from the top of the fort to the bottom, and let
them all down without the knowledge of the people of the fort.
And when Ali-bin-Othman and his companions were come
down, they were received by the principal men of the town,
among whom were Mishaf-bin-MuallimsDav, Haj-ibn-Maul
Mughlfit, Khamis-bin-Mizakal, and Ahmad-bin-Dav, all of
Kilindin, and who accompanied them to Vanikat to the sea-port
ot‘ Murairah. And the people of Mif'ta were at that time with
Saif-bin-Khalaf‘, the Governor.

And there was in the harbour of Kilindin an English ship,
and the people of Mumbasat used to call the Captain of her
Muzugh-kighugh (query Mr. Cook,) and he was intimate with
Ali-bin-Othman ; so the Englishman went to Muraisah to Ali,
and advised them to make war against Saif-bin-Khalaf‘, for, if
they subdued him, it was finished, and if' not he would take Ali—
bin-Othman and his adherents aboard his ship Mambai, (Bom-
bay,) and next year would send them to Mumbasat with some

InsTonY or MUMBAS. 421

De Gama did not like the terms, but he was
overruled by the necessity of his situation, toge-
ther with the earnest entreaties of his men, and

ships, and then fight against Saif and drive him out of the fort
They liked his plan. Then he told them to make a ladder as
high as the fort, which they did. And they marched from Va-
nikat and entered Mumbasat by night, and fixed the ladder and
all entered unawares, and fought with the people of the fort
and subdued them. And the governor, Khalaf, mounted a large
bastion which was in the fort, and they could not get at him,
and he fought with them three days. Then the Englishman
landed a gun from his ship, and mounted it against the bastion
and fired at it, and made a breach in it, and the Governor
Saif cried out for quarter and threw down his arms, so they
took him and put him to death. And they made Ali-bin-
Othman Governor, and gave up to the people of Mumbasat all
that was in the fort of any worth, except the arms and ammu-
nition, and the lead. And the Governor Ali-bin-Othman made
an engagement with the people of Mumbasat for many privi-
leges that he would grant them—and the same with the peeple
of Vanikat. Then Ali-bin-Othman prepared for war with
Zanguibar, and he marched and entered it, and besieged the
people, till they were distressed by what had come upon them.
Then the devil instigated Khalaf-bin-Kazite to kill the Gover-
nor ; so he fell upon him in an unguarded moment, and stabbed
him with his dagger, and he died. And Masaud-bin-Nasir suc-
ceeded him, and the army returned to Mumbasat, and they
made Masaud Governor in Mumbasat, and he lived till God put
an end to his days.

And the reign of Ali-bin-Othman was eight years, (8) and
the reign of Masaud-bin Nasir was twenty-four, (24) years.
Then, after him, they gave the authority to Abdallah-bin-Mu-
hammad-bin-Otlnnan of Mazrua, and he enjoyed it for eight (8)
years, and (lied. Then they chose Ahmad~bin-Muhammad-bin-
Othman of Mazrua, who lived in the possession of his power
thirty-four (34) years. Then they appointed Abdallah-bin—
Ahmad-bin-Muhammad-bin~0tlnnan of Mazrua, who lived in

422 HISTORY or MOMBAS.

had nearly fallen a‘victim to his credulity; but
the conspirators, frightened by some strange
sound, made their treacherous intentions known,
or in all probability the whole ship’s company
would have been massacred. The Mombassians
suffered severely for this intended act of hostility,
for Francis d’Almeyda, after having subdued
Quiloa, attacked their capital, took it after a
severe struggle, and, for the obstinacy with which
the inhabitants had defended themselves, burnt
it to the ground. The inhabitants, however, still
remained, and, in the course of three-and-twenty

the exercise of authority eight (8) years, and died. And then
they chose as Governor Sulaiman-bin-Ali-bin-Othman of Maz-
rua, and he is Governor at thepresent day. And God knows
the truth. And we have abridged this story, and have left out
what was long and full. And we pray to God for a happy end
in death. Amen. And this Copy was made the 28th of Shaaban,
in the year 1239.

N. B. When Shasah-bin-Mish-ham died, there was sent after
him a chief from Shirazwbut after him the Chiefs (Shaikhs)
came from Milinda; the first of whom, was Sultan Ahmad;
then Sultan Muhammad; then Sultan Yfisuf; and he had been
brought up among the Portuguese, and used to eat pork and
all their other food; and his government began on Saturday,
the 7th of Muhaoram, at the tenth hour, in the year 1040 after
the Hegira: and when he was in power, he was very tyranni-
cal, and made the people eat hog’s flesh, and he was wicked and
disobedient. And he was dependent on the Sultan of Rainfi;
but he opposed his authority, and rebelled against him ; so the
Sultan of Rainfi marched against him, and drove him out of the
fort, and he fled to Yaman, and died in the seaport ofJeddah.
And there was not after him any sultan but chiefs (Shaikhs)
only-~—But God knows best.

lus'roar or MOMBAS. 423

years, rendered the place sufficiently strong to
hold out some time against Nunho d’Acunha,
who, after he had succeeded in his attack, pursued
the same course as Almeyda, by reducing it to a
heap of ashes.

‘ From this time, nothing is recorded respecting
the history of Mombas but what is contained in
the inscription over the gate of the castle, and
a short statement that in 1720 it was in possession
of the Imaum of Bluskat. To this day the Mom-
bassians proudly draw the attention of strangers
to a large mass of masonry, the sepulchre of those
who fell in wresting the place for the last time
from the Portuguese. The town is divided into
two parts, one inhabited by the Arabs, and the
other by the Sowhylese, and, excepting some
houses erected on the ruins of the old Portuguese
buildings, with a few in imitation of those at
Mozambique, they are all in the same wretched
state as at Lamoo and other Arab towns.

An Arab, especially one who has not Visited
other countries, cannot conceive how any man
can demean himself so far as to appear in pub—
lic without a sword or dagger. Mr. Fisher,
one of our midshipmen, had gone on shore un—
armed; this accidental omission appeared to at-
tract much notice, and our young gentleman felt
rather uneasy at the little respect with which he
was treated. Fortunately, he had an opportunity
of accounting for the absence of his sword in a
way highly gratifying to their feelings. A party
was collected around him, when it was asked why

424 CUSTOM OF GOING ARMED.

he wore no arms? Upon this he imitated the
sign of amity used by the Arabs, hooking the
two little fingers together, and then gave them
to understand that such were the terms existing
between them, and he did not therefore carry a
weapon intended only for his enemies.

ARRlVAL AT PEMBA. 425

CHAPTER XXII;

Arrival at Pemba.-——Capture of Pemba.-—Arrival off Zanzibar.—
Harbours.——The Chief’s visit.—Deserters.—Unhealthy cli-
mate of Zanzibar.—Latham’s Island.—Sea-fowl.—Cunning
expedient.

CAPTAIN VlDAL returned on board amidst the
loud cheering of the inhabitants, who now anx-
iously turned their attention towards the expected
arrival of Captain Owen as their last resource.
On the morning of the 7th of December, we left
Mombas roads, and continued along the coast to
the southward, arriving at Pemba on the 10th;
when the Albatross was ordered to survey one
part of the island while we were employed upon
the other.

Few places are so little known, in a hydrogra-
phical sense, as Pemba; its extent, from north to
south, is thirty miles, and, from east to west, ten;
about eighteen from the main at the north end,
and twenty-five from Zanzibar. It is low, be-
ing not more in any part than two hundred feet

426 CAPTURE 0F PEMBA.

above the sea, of coral foundation, but covered by
a most productive soil, yielding luxuriantly every
kind of produce, especially rice of the finest
quality, being in fact the granary of the neigh-
bouring coast. The capture of this place from
the Mombassians was a. great step towards the
subjugation of that power by the Imaum of
Muskat; but the struggle was severe before he
finally succeeded in obtaining the island. The
Prince Mombarrok was entrusted with its defence,
who, although he could not resist the superior
force that was brought against him, still did
enough to prove himself a good soldier, and one
whose undaunted courage entitled, him to better
_ fortune. Whatever he might have felt at his dis-
comfiture must have been greatly alleviated by a
knowledge of the high estimation in which he
was held by his countrymen. The children are
taught to lisp his name, and the wars of Mom-
barrok are the subject of many a favourite song,
not only amongst the Mombassians, but in the in-
land towns of the VVanyekahs.

Whilst examining the coast of this island, we
had a narrow escape from being wrecked ; the place
we had entered was a complete labyrinth. of coral
rocks rising abruptly from a depth of seventeen
feet to eighty. One of huge dimensions, over
which the current bore us, was within a few inches
of our keel, for as one man was soundng upon it
in a little more than two fathoms water, another
on the other side of the vessel dropped his lead
in seventeen.

ARRIVAL orr ZANZIBAR. 427

The Albatross was sent to Zanzibar on the
14th, and the following day we left Pemba and
stood over to the main. The land here is low,
but covered with trees and apparently fertile.
The shore is sandy, with, in some places, a small
intervening cliff of coral; while, parallel to it, at
a distance of four or five miles, there exists a.
line of sand and coral reefs with deep water be-
tween and inside, but to seaward nearly unfa-
thomable. ,

After passing the entrance to the river Pan-
gany, we directed our course towards Zanzibar.
So little frequented is this part of the coast that
since quitting Mozambique we had seen no vessels
but afew Arab dows, until the night of our ar-
rival ofi' Zanzibar, when, about nine o’clock,
through the darkness that prevailed, we suddenly
discovered a large ship bearing down upon us;
not a moment was lost in clearing for action.
She changed her course a few points, and by
other manoeuvres appeared evidently undeter-
mined whether to proceed or not; we, accord-
ingly, stood towards her, and, on hailing, disco-
vered that she was one of the Imaum’s armed ves-
sels conveying troops to Zanzibar.

Our Arab pilot perceiving the preparations we
were making, resumed his sword and dagger, and
appeared, by the activity and readiness which he
displayed, to be delighted with the opportunity
of showing us that a fight would be as agreeable
to him as the more peaceable occupation for which
he was hired : but doubtless, had any thing seri-

428 HARBOURS.

ous taken place, he would have acted more for
his own honour than for our advantage.

We anchored off the principal town of Zanzi-
bar, the residence of the Governor, who we found
had taken 'umbrage at .a few small flags placed
by Lieutenant Owen on the trees, to serve as
marks for the survey. Zanzibar is nearly twice

~.the size of Pemba, which in every other respect

it closely resembles. It is a most valuable pos-
session of the Imaum of Muskat’s, on account of
its abundant produce of grain and sugar. There
are numerous harbours between Zanzibar and
the main, formed by the islands and reefs,
which are safe and not difficult of access; but
within the shores of Zanzibar there is not one
land-locked port, in this particular not at all re-
sembling Pemba. This place is like most Arab
towns, and its castle greatly resembles that of
Lamoo. Whilst we remained here obtaining
refreshments, Lieutenant Boteler was despatched
in the pinnace to survey the coast from the river
Pangany to the southward, the following brief
account of which is extracted from his Journal.

“ The general appearance of the coast is low,
but occasionally in the distance may be seen cu-
rious insulated mountains, which present a re-
markable contrast to the general flatness of the
country. One of these is termed ‘Vasheen, and
can be seen distinctly from the Island of Pemba.
Excepting in one part, where the coast is a kind
of putrid marsh, the shores are lined with vil~
lagcs, always rendered conspicuous by a lofty

TIIE CIIIEF’S VISIT. 429

grove of cocoa—nut trees, in the midst of which
they are built, and sometimes by the remains of
an old Portuguese or Arabic building. The in-
habitants are subject to the Imaum, and, as we
passed, never omitted showing their red flag,
as an invitation for us to land. We one day an-
chored near a large dow, and by making signs of
friendship prevailed on two of the crew to pay us
a visit. They did not perceive at first that we were
armed, but when they made the discovery, their
countenances exhibited the utmost consternation ;
but as they had already partaken of some good
cheer, the effect was momentary, and after a plen—
tiful repast of flour and rice, for spirits and pork
they would not touch, we sent them back to their
vessel, much gratified by their reception, when the
favourable report they made of the treatment
they had received procured us a Visit from their
old turbaned chief. He came in his canoe, and
brought a present of fruit, for the smallness of
which he apologized in a good-humoured way,
principally by signs. He could not be prevail-
ed upon to take any thing in exchange, and
indeed required much pressing before he would
join the young midshipman and myself at dinner;
but when his scruples were overcome, he did
ample justice to every thing before him, espe-
cially to the rice and some preserves that fortu-
nately I had with me. The novelty and good fare
appeared to have had almost as much effect upon
him as if he had not merely confined himself to
the eatables: for he laughed and talked with

430 DESERTERS.

wonderful volubility, as if we understood every
word that he uttered ; and, feeling himself happy
and contented, smiled and cracked his jokes with '
great glee. But the expression of his counte-
nance, and an occasional word, were all the share
we had in them. Previously to quitting the boat,
he examined every thing with the utmost curio-
sity, but that which seemed particularly to attract
his attention was the brass gun, which he ex-
tolled highly, and wished to see discharged; but,
as we were abreast of a village, I was fearful it
might alarm the inhabitants, and was therefore
under the necessity of declining.”

Whilst at Zanzibar, four of our men deserted,
being led away by an American Black. It is
always better to part with those who are discon-
tented, when it can be done safely ; but their de-
sertion always creates a bad feeling among the rest,
which it requires some time and management to
eradicate. We had experienced this at Madagas-
car, but hoped from the general appearance of
contentment that such a circumstance would not
again occur. Two were retaken, the third pe-
rished by the fever, and the latest account we re-
ceived of the fourth was of his being confined in
the castle—prison, where most probably he died.

Experience has shown how fatal the climate of
Zanzibar is to Europeans. The Andromache lost
several of her crew, when there about a year
before us ; and, during her second visit in August
1824, Commodore Nourse, with a party of his
officers, rashly accepted an invitation from the

UNIIEALTHY CLIMATE or ZANZIBAR. 431

Governor to pass a night at his house in the
country, in consequence of which he, together
with the greater number of those who had accom-
panied him, was seized with the fever a few
weeks afterwards, when all fell victims to the
virulence of the disease.

The fate of a boat’s crew, who, from unavoid-
able circumstances were not able to return on
board for the night, offers another melancholy
proof of the baneful influence of this climate,——
four out of the five who formed the party, in-
stead of sleeping in the boat, landed and lay
around a large fire, which they had kindled in
the jungle. For nearly a fortnight no bad effects
were visible, but, at the end of that time, three
died, after a most painful and lingering illness,
while the fourth was obliged to be sent home
with an emaciated body and worn-down consti-
tution.

Bound as we were by constant association in
danger, and for years removed from the land of
our affections, it is not surprising that the strict-
ness of subordination and etiquette should have
been superseded by feelings of a warmer and
more congenial nature; or, that the sentiments of
all towards each other should possess more of
the fraternal than of any other character—so that
on Christmas-day we met like a large and united
family. The hilarity of this jovial season was
not heightened by the substantial splendour of
our native soil, but possessed many luxuries of a
tropical one; and had not the silent thought stolen

432 LATHAM’S ISLAND.

over the waste between us and home, bringing on
the memory all the dear delights we had there
enjoyed, we might have been as happy, as the
Poet says,

[1,
“With those we saw—as those we thought of.”

But “ Home” was the standing toast, for there was
not one heart that had not a cherished something
there, and perhaps not an eye that did not upon
that occasion pay its slight tribute to the shrine
of its afi'ections. V \

On the 1st of January 1824, we left Zanmdar,
for the purpose of surveying and ascertaining the
exact position of Latham’s Island, or, as it is er-
roneously termed, Shoal. Although passing at
a very short distance, by the greatest chance we
discovered it, so small are its dimensions, and so
little is it elevated above the sea. It is situate in
Lat. 6° 54/, 2", and Long. 39° 55', 5". It is formed
of coral, of an oval shape, about one thousand feet
long, and- between ten and twelve high, accessible
only on the south-west side by a small shelv'
beach of coral sand : The surface is perfect;
smooth, and composed entirely of the excrement ur'
the numerous sea-fowl that resort thither. In some
parts this incrustation over the interstices of the
coral is not sufficiently hard to bear the weight of
a man, as several of our people, in the course of
their peregrinations, rather disagreeably experi-
enced. The feathered inhabitants, being unac-
customed to molestation, are perfectly fearless;
they appeared totally to disregard us, not even

SEA—FOWL. 433

getting out of the way to avoid being trampled
upon, and, if we attempted to touch them, they
would endeavour as far as was in their power to
repel the assailant with their sharp-pointed beaks.
Some were of the sooty pette‘rel kind, but by far
the greater number resembled the gannet, and
in point of size were little inferior to the goose.
They presented a very singular appearance upon
our landing, as the steep rocky wall of madrepore
that bounded the surface of the island was covered
bv a complete phalanx of them, ofi'ering a most
motley“ variety of shades, from the snow-white
coats of the young to the dark bilious tint of the
old ones. They hailed our approach by a shrill
scream, and, without stirring, shot forth a lively
expression from their bright golden eyes, deeply
buried in the white downy mass that enveloped
them. The surface of the island was literally
covered with them; some of the hens sitting
on their eggs, others tenderly watching their
young in their first sally from their nest, or awk-
ward efforts to fly; while the remainder, in large
flights, alternately relieved one another in scour-
ing the surface of the surrounding sea for fish,
with which they returned in great numbers. Four
of these that we took from them, together with
some eggs, afforded the boat’s crew a hearty meal.

Before leaving this place, we put up a lofty
pole, inscribed with the date and name of the
vessel, and then made sail for Zanzibar, Where
we arrived on the 6th of January 1824. Lieute-
nant Boteler was immediately despatched to wait

VOL. I. 2 F

434 CUNNING EXPEDIENT.

on the Governor for the two deserters who had
been arrested during our absence. He found him
in his balcony, lounging on a cane sofa, from
which, on his entering, he arose, and accompanied
the lieutenant to the castle-prison, where the two
culprits were secured. It appeared that the Arabs
who were despatched to arrest these men, dreading
the resistance which they well knew they would
make, had recourse to their characteristic cunning
to overcome them. Their expedient, although
rather degrading to our national character, in
the event proved their just estimation of it.
Spirits were placed in the way; our men drank,
and shortly afterwards were unresistingly arrested,
and carried to prison in a state of intoxication. .

In no place were we furnished with refresh-
ments so cheap, and of such excellent quality,
as at Zanzibar. Our decks every morning ex-
hibited the appearance of a market, where for a
dollar upwards of two dozen fowls could be pro-
cured; sugar of an excellent quality at twopence
a pound, very superior rice at a penny, and a
great variety of fruits in proportion. Bullocks of
the humped breed, and of a moderate size, were.
obtained at five dollars a head, and sheep of the
Tartar kind very cheap.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

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