BERKELEY L3 PEIQ‘SQY .‘zt ~--~~X ‘/ £- LJPGIV " ' L' A \Germam SEED Company ESTABLISHED 1880 --------------------------------------------------------- GARDEN, FLOWER and AGRICULTURAL FARM SEEDS. We carry the choicest stocks obtainable, and all seed is tested and proven reliable before being offered to the trade. )2: PLANTS AND NURSERY STUCK We grow all the leading varieties of FRUIT TREES, ORNAMENTAL PLANTS, PALMS, and NURSERY STOCK, which is raised in the UNITED STATES, and import direct from growers all over the world, such stocks that are grown in foreign countries. POULTRY SUPPLIES AND STOCK FOODS Distributing Agents for Prussian Poultry and Stock Foods, Chamberlain’s Perfect Chick Food, Coulson’s Egg Food, Darling’s High Protein Beef Scraps, Leak's Lice Killer, Oil Cake Meal, Flax Seed Meal, Perfection Sprayers, Mann's Bone Cutters, and all goods in this line which have proven their merit. CATA- LOGUES We issue two separate Catalogues, one for Seeds, Plants and Nursery Stock, and another for Poultry Supplies and Stock Foods, either of which will be mailed FREE on application Germain .S‘eed Co. 326-330 3. Main St. LosAngeles‘, tat. . V "fifififlfltfififlfi“!!!fififififi‘hfi‘fltfifififlfiflfifififlfififlfifi‘ a: EVERYTHING FOR THE GARDEN ‘1: ‘1' a: g 5: Seeds l hat GI’OW ,. 3 —AND COME TRUE TO NAME——— 3 . V ‘3 of 'Flowers, Vegetables and Trees : “antenna?“”335mmunmatnuununmnuuu: at A full line of Seasonablé Bulbs g a: alw ays on hand g 3: Plants for Bedding and Deco- rating ”Roses and Carnation Planis Ornamental and Fruit Trees Palms and Ferns Extra Clean Seed of Blue Grass and White Clover for Lawns m?- A full line of Tools, Hose, Ferti- lizers, Japanese Tubs, Wire Work and Supplies for the Florist and Gardener ‘fifi flfififlfiflififififififi‘fififififififi‘0*fii INDIAN BASKETRY {MATERIAL WHOLESALE ._ AND . RETAIL‘ $ fl‘fi‘flfifififl‘fiflfifififififififi‘R‘fi‘lfl‘fi‘fi‘fi‘fi"!fifi‘fl‘ CH AS .. WINS/EL THE SEEDSMAN 247 South Main Street fi1"!‘I‘flafifififi‘l‘fi‘fififififififififi‘l-‘QW‘Ifififlfifififififififlfiflfiflfl“ flflfilllhflflllfikflklflfiflhlfiflfilflflkflkr hkklflhfi‘hfllfiflfllhfl‘fifififikfil‘flflfluki Home Phone 929 L05 ANGELES, CAL. ‘fiu‘fiB““‘K%“‘I‘5K‘“fifit‘fltfifii‘fifififlln‘ S‘U‘fi‘fififififlfiflfififi ifltfllkhlfl I: syntax.»&3&&&3&3&w&&3&&3&&3.3334 a; Dbone % g ycamore Grove Hm g; ‘ 1453 2 Nurseries E 9B fie 2 Shade, Ornamental and Fruit i 5!; ‘Crees, palms, Roses and Dotted is ,5 plants of every Description. is 9B is 2 Descriptive Catalogue Sent free on prlieation :2 as j. j. 6. Saint k 53 proprietor k 2 4584 Dasadena Hve. Loo Hngelee, Cal. 3; 9KFKK‘FK'KK‘K’FK'K’K'fiffififfifififififfififi‘k‘ 434’ «no 304.0434, “4’4, 3‘14" 043414) S. Shimo & Companv Japanese Florists Roses, Carnations, Chrysanthemums Dahlias and all kinds of House Plants. Cut Flowers, and Floral DesignsaSpecialty J .a‘ «9‘ Moderate Prices Nursery at Bell Station . Tel. Main 1864 509 S. Spring Street Los Angeles, Cal. ”6606000664164, 414,3 wuvwmvuuvvuu ufifififififhfi fififlfifififififlfi “at? , ' Seeds, Plants ' and Bulbs Roses, Palms, Decorative Plants, Shade and Ornamental Trees, Ster- culias, Live Oaks, Etc. Choice Flower, Garden and Tree Seeds. Cactus and Smgle Dahlias. Bed- ding Plants. Flowering Bulbs and Cannas. - - - - - Cactus Dahlia, King of Siam Choice rlower Seeds :1 Specialty Homephonemo THEODORE PAYNE P‘ 0' B” “"3 NURSERYMAN AND SEEDSMAN 440 S. Broadway LOS ANGELES, CAL. Palm Nurseries Established Palms A Specialty EDWARD H. RUST PALMS, ROSES, FERNS, Etc. ORANGE, LEMON and DECIDUOUS Trees $9 House and Porch Decorations 424 S. BROADWAY Nurseries: Phone,. Main 2580 Bank Street, South Pasadena LOS. Angeles, Cal. , I. X. L. nose is our highest » grade guaran- teed hose, 'and . ‘ the best made f r 0 m P a r a , » r u b b e 1‘ a n d " cotton I dubk. It is guaran— teed for two years. GordenTools Sprav PuInps Wheel Barrows Steel Goods Pipe Pipe Fittings Harper & Revnolds Co., ‘ I52-l54 ’North’ Main‘Street I5I-I53 North L. A. Street LOS ANGELES Phones: Home 90 Sunset, Ex. 90 m Correspondence $0119.1th ._ Cactus Dahlia “Greens White” ' NURSERYMEN dlANDSCAPE HOWARD & SMIT #AchRms— Largest and most complete collection of flowering plants in the Southwest. Specialties CANNAS, DAHLIAS, CHRYSANTHEMUMS, PELARGON- IUMS, ROSES GERANIUMS and CARNATIONS. Annual and Perennial plants 1n season . Nurseries at Montebello, Cal. Mail Address P. 0. Box 43,, City Depot N. W. Cor. Ninth & Olive StS. L08 mugs, uuronm NOT THE LEAST So many inquiries have been ad- dressed to the publishers of GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA ask- ing where seeds, plants and imple- ments of various kinds could be had, that we have published a list of advertisers in this edition that will materially assist the amateur 7 gardener in securing just what they want from reliable dealers The Publishers GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA A BRIEF TREATISE ON THE BEST METHODS OF CULTIVATING COMMON FLOWERS IN THE CALI- FORNIA HOME GARDEN. DESIGNED CHIEFLY FOR THE USE OF AMATEURS THIRD REVISED EDITION WM. S. LYON LOS ANGELES, CAL. GEO. RICE & SONS, Inc 1904 o 320' figag/ Boc’d uca ENVI em:- DESlGN MAR 1 7 1989 COPYRIGHT 1904. BY GEO. Fuel do sons. ("40.) L08 ANaszs, cAL. RARE 3001; DEDICATION THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED TO HENRY W. O’MELVENY WHOSE INTELEGENT AND SYMPATHETIC APPRECIATION HAS BEEN INSTRUMENTAL IN ENOBLING THE GARDNER’S ART, AND IN ELEVATING THE STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE IN CALIFORNIA GARDENS. Ia: PREFACE a: The object of this little volume is to meet and an- swer the daily recurring inquiries: What shall I do with my roses? Why don’t my violets bloom? How treat the Chrysanthemums when through flow— ering? And so on through a long list of the world—known common flowers of the garden. Our libraries abound with many excellent text—books bearing upon these subjects; but so far as the author knows all have been prepared with reference to conditions existing in the gardens of Europe or of the eastern United States. These conditions, particularly in the essentials of both soil and climate, are so radically diverse fromnthose obtaining here as to render the culture instructions laid down in these treatises of little practical value to the amateur or even to the professional undertaking the im— provement of grounds or gardens in this country. As this work has progressed, increasing demand for information in those directions has prompted supple- mental chapters on lawn making and rudimentary land— scape work, as well as a list of rare, little known or es— pecially desirable additions to the grounds or garden; and a brief essay on sidewalk trees. In specific detail and illustration, this work mainly deals with operations as carried on south of Point Conv cepcion. The principles involved apply to California; where exceptions occur they are noted. W. S. L., Los Angeles, Cal. a: INTRODUCTORY 1 as BY HENRY w. o’MELVENY. The publishers inform me that another edition of Mr. Lyon’s book is called for. Amidst the numberless books published within the last few years dealing with gardening and: kindred subjects, this modest little treatise has found a congenial environment in Southern Califor- nia, and by the persistent, insistent force of its merit has established itself in public favor. The early Spanish settlers in Southern California were not given to floriculture. When the ranches were but cattle ranges and the plow unused, the cultivation of orchards and the planting of gardens were of secondary consideration. In the olden days the country was a treeless expanse, covered with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, here and there the adobe house of the owner, practically bereft of the shade of tree or bright color of a flower; to-day, the same land is covered with orchards of orange, lemon, apricot, prune and: other fruits; here and there the symmetrical lines of vineyard; its road- ways lined with hedgerows, and its many homes set amidst a profusion of flower blooms. The contrast indicates the successive discoveries of our transplanted population in that unknown land—the plant-life possibilities of South- ern California. The newcomer from the East brings with him the traditions of accumulated years of experience from his Eastern home. He follows them and finds in many re-- 16 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. spects that comparative failure meets his efforts, and won~ ders at the cause. Eliminating from present considera— tion the soil, those natural conditions which are summed up in the word “climate,” contain more than half of the influences which determine plant growth. Our latitude: the desert and mountains on the east and the Pacific Ocean on the west, producing the consequent division of our seasons into but two—a dry and a wet season—form the basic differences in our climate. Here are no sharp divisions between seasons, no periods of rest, and under artificial irrigation no season of drought. In lieu of an atmosphere laden with moisture in summer we have a dry actinic atmosphere, powerful in its chemical effects on plant organisms. Nature will have her way. Refuse to adopt her laws and failure will follow; adopt her sug- gestions and a success can be obtained surpassing belief. It is this novelty of conditions—this planting, as it were, of the Anglo—Saxon temperament and tradition in an environment similar to Greece, Southern Italy or Spain——-that makes the following of floriculture in South- ern California the most fascinating of pursuits. The pos— sibilities of the country on these lines are like unto an un— known country. The guide books of countries differently situated are of no practical use. Mr. Lyon’s book is the first attempt to indicate the trails thus far opened. He was a trained observer, uniting scientific and practical knowledge of his subject. It is much to be regretted that his continuous absence from California prevents him from re-editing this work. The beauty of Southern California to the eye is des- tined to be along the lines of cultivated nature. Outside GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 17 its mountain canyons its general aspect in the summer months, where uncultivated, is not attractive. The colors are at hand, needing nothing but the brush of art to create pictures of wondrous beauty. The life our climate in- vites is the outdoor life. The man who purposes to get the most there is in life here must live outdoors. Field sports have and deserve their devoted adherents, but for continuity of interest, diversion from the cares of life and profit of pleasure nothing can equal the practice of gardening. There seems to be a unanimous admission of this fact coupled with a prevailing indifference to this form of enjoyment. But if one would find a deeper meaning in the cloudless sky, in the summer sea breeze that, .born on the coast, comes freighted with coolness across the intervening plains, in the hum of bee, the song of bird, in grace of motion, in beauty of color, or in the deliciousness of fragrance, let him with his own hands prepare the ground, plant therein the tiniest of seeds, wonder at the mystery of birth, and then cultivate, nur- ture, care for and protect the plant through maturity until the ripened seed betokens death. When one compares the gardens of Los Angeles twenty years ago, one realizes the vast addition which has been made in our flowering plants. It is but a few years back, for instance, when the bougainvillia was un- known; now handsome specimens in difi‘erent colors climb rampant over the roofs of houses. Among the palms, the kentias, seaforthia elegans and varieties of cocos are gradually superseding the Phoenix canariensis, the staple palm of years ago. The amateur should be bold, should make audacious incursions in the realm: of the untried, 18 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. should experiment broadly, forgetting the many failures in the one success. Share your success with your friends and spread broadcast the new acquisition. The field is illimitable. The flora of Japan, of Australia and of Cape Colony in South Africa find a congenial habitat in South- ern California. A chapter yet remains to be written on the hardy herbaceous border, that resultant of the revolt against formal gardening. Without importing from foreign lands, the most interesting of novelties can be found in the domestication of our native shrubs and plants. With this prospect in the future, following the sug— gestions contained in this little book, and imbued with the local patriotism, one can find health, pleasure and happiness, besides contributing to the glory of his State by gardening in California. ‘ a: METHODS e3 The Soil-Preparation—Cultivation~—Planting Size of Plants—Pruning. ~"HERE nature has made the garden soil and dumped in a rich, friable T loam with a free hand, a little water " . and frequent tillage do the rest. I Nature, however, does not always carry out our wishes in this particu- lar and sometimes inflicts upon us decidedly intract- able garden sites. It is with these—not ready—made gardens—that we will concern ourselves. First, we encounter “adobe.” Next, a pasty, red— dish clay; and lastly (and perhaps the most unprom- ising of all) a white, marl—like clay overlaid with a foot or so of black adobe. The application of sand to any of these soils only gives temporary relief. Its gravity, when irrigated, quickly causes it to settle down to the lowest levels of cultivation, and when the soil is particularly tenacious, it combines to form cement—like masses more object- ionable than its original condition. Wood ashes will be found effective in ameliorat- ing the cloddy conditions of these soils, but unless brick kilns are close at hand they are not always ob- tainable. Nothing that I have tried has proved so lasting and efficacious as to crop these soils heavily for one or two years with Chrysanthemums. \ 20 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. From a half dozen of Chrysanthemum clumps enough suckers may be had to closely plant an entire garden plat of fifty feet square. When the plants are well advanced the whole surface can be heavily mulched with any coarse ma- nure, fresh or old, whichever can most cheaply and easily be had. Water may then be used ad lib., cultivation quite dispensed with, and the Chrysanthemums will do the work. It should be said that watering these soils, unless well protected with a covering of mulch and foliage, will only aggravate the evil we are trying to combat. If the mulch and water have been used upon a lib: eral scale, not only will the Chrysanthemums (if good varieties) make a famous display, but in the wintef when they are “lifted” and the old mulch forked un— der, one is delighted and surprised to find how nicely the lumpy adobe and stiff clay “fines out.” It is not imperative to surrender the whole gar- den for two years to Chrysanthemums. When it is designed to plant trees or shrubs, holes may be opened, the soil stirred, aerated and mixed with a small proportion of sandy loam and manure, and plantings made at once. " After being established many plants thrive ex- ceptionally well in these heavy soils, and the prepara- tion of any number of holes for them is an insignificant affair compared to the excavating and refilling of an ‘ entire lot. Meantime that trees and shrubs are getting estab- GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 21 lished, the Chrysanthemums are engaged in treating the rest of the garden mechanically, so that after two seasons the whole is in condition to receive the most delicate plant. CULTIVATION In all parts of the garden not given up to lawn, cultivation is an indispensable element of success. When the grounds are old and the plants are of mature size, the labor of cultivation if properly exe— cuted can be minimized. The best results I have ever seen were attained with an annual spading up only. With the approach of warm weather, fair sized basins were hoed out about each plant; then, while still wet, the basin was heavily mulched with manure. Copious waterings were given throughout the summer but no further at— tempt at cultivation till the following spring when this manure (now aged) was worked in and the pro- cess repeated for another entire year. In new gardens, where the plants are small, or, where by reason of improper pruning the striking feature is a wilderness of stems, these mulched beds are unsightly, and if that be a bug—bear, there is no alternative but con— stant irrigation to be followed by as regular hoeing and raking. In very light or sandy soils these subsequent cultiva- tions are not so imperative, although neglect of them im— plies the need of more frequent waterings. In stiff soils or adobes, when unmulched, these culti— vations after irrigation, and at the right time, i. e., the 22 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. moment the soil will work without clogging, are indispen— sable conditions; and neglect of them for a single time will about undo what it took the Chrysanthemums two years to accomplish. In the model, well-mulched garden referred to, every plant whose habit admitted was kept as low and spread— ing as possible. In the spring the branches were propped or tied up enough to perform the needed operation of spading, and when restored to their normal position no one was aware of the unsightly litter beneath. PLANTING. Theoretically we can plant the year around in any well prepared soil, when water for irrigation is at com- mand. In practice, we rush all planting into the period of seasonal rainfall—approximately the three months be— tween December fifteenth and March fifteenth—and as fully one—half of all our garden material is native of tropical or extra tropical countries, a large percentage of this class of vegetation annually succumbs, through no fault of the climate, but through the ignorance of the planter. For entirely hardy plants, or those indigenous to colder climates than California, this is the most oppor- tune time for planting. The reason is obvious. How- ever cold, damp, or even sodden the soil, it is still warmer than that to which it was accustomed at the same‘ season in its native home; and planting it during our winter is equivalent to forcing in a mild degree; more or less root action ensues at once and the subject shortly starts to grow. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 23 In this category we include ALL hardy deciduous fruit, forest and shade trees; all coniferous (pine—like) plants of northern latitudes; very many laurels, roses, carnations, marguerites, pansies, daisies, violets, and a host of such perennial subjects as lilies, fuchsias, colum- bines, peonies, phlox, hollyhocks, etc. The native of a warmer climate is at a great disad- vantage if planted at this season. There is nothing to incite the formation of new roots, and if the winter is moderately long and wet and the plant a little “off color” or condition, the old roots decay and the subjects uni- formly perish. When the plant at the moment of re-setting (if per- formed in the winter season) is a model of thrift and vigor, it will most times survive; yet during all the colder season simply stagnatcs, and by the time it has recuper- ated from the shock of moving it not so well equipped to stand the vicissitudes of plant life as its mate trans- planted later in the year. Thus rule applies not alone to tropical exotics, but holds equally good of our native flora and to that indi- genous to countries with parallel climatic conditions to our own. Take the case of the orange, the lemon and the na— tive California fan palm. Twenty-five years of experimentation upon a vast scale has demonstrated beyond the possibility of contra- diction, that the early summer, or indeed any of the summer months, are better suited to tree planting of any or all of these trees than the winter. 24 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. If this holds good of EXTRA tropical plants, it is readily seen how much more forcefully it applies to helio— tropes, Christmas flowers, hibiscus, lantanas, fuchsias, be- gonias and the mass of truly tender vegetation with which our gardens abound. In Northern California, particularly in the interior valleys the advent of summer is greatly accelerated over the coast and southern counties. The soil is warmer and the “season” may be roughly stated as a month in ad- vance of the south, so that planting in the north may with advantage begin about April 'first. Here we may begin a month later and continue throughout the summer, the only limitations being that the final transplanting be effected in time for the new plant to be well and firmly established before our wet season. ' It is then prepared to endure inclemencies that the newly moved subject could never combat. In a general way it may be said that plants adapted to winter moving are most successfully handled with bare roots or, as “balled;” i. e., dug with enough soil to pro— tect the main root and its immediate feeders and then sacked up to prevent falling away of the dirt. At all other seasons the potted or boxed plants are the most desirable. In setting out a balled plant, particularly if it be large and heavy, and if the hole has been properly pre- pared (that is excavated at sides and bottom to an extent quite double the diameter of the ball) caution should be used to see that the planting is shallow; that the top of »\\, x \Q a N LA FRANCE ROSES Courtesy Howard C? Smith. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 25 the ball is flush with or even slightly higher than the srrrounding level. The subsequent tamping and water- ing of the loose soil will result in the settling of the plant to its proper position an inch or so below the surface. With all bare rooted plants, success measurably depends upon exclusion of atmospheric air from the roots, and this is best assured by firm, solid pressure with fingers, hand or foot. I am led to make these very elementary observations upon planting by noting the constant and unnecessary losses attendant upon the summer moving of such easily transplanted material as feverfew, lobelia, asters, alter— nantheras, etc. ' Such failures oftimes supervene even if followed by the prompt application of water, but in most cases are at— tributable to the tender coddling of loose soil about the roots in lieu of vigorous, firm, packing of the dirt. SIZE OF PLANTS. In this matter we are guided by the nature of the subject; and as it is one in which technical knowledge cuts quite a figure, the topic is accorded extended con— sideration. Growers generally class all garden material as soft and hard wood; and broadly speaking the largest hard wood plants obtainable are the best, While the other ex— treme is recommended for the former. This soft, or “bedding stuff,” as it is further known, aside from the truly soft or fleshy stemmed annuals, and such plants, as pansies, daisies, primroses, cinerarias and petunias, has come to include a lot of subjects de- 26 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. veloping in time, into species with an actual ligneous or hard wood stem. Such are geraniums, pelargoniums, marguerites, fuchsias, lantanas, abutilons, heliotropes, vincas and many others. This gardener’s classification of “bedding stufi” is essentially good; and is distinguishing of material that planted, bedded, or massed out as young, small individ- uals, culminates the same season in abundant flower— mg. Many of the plants named above positively deterior- ate after one or two years; hence their frequent renewal with large and necessarily more costly specimens, in time becomes an item of consideration to most planters. Again, these soft—wooded plants must be soft wooded when procured, if a full measure of success is to be ex— pected. better a marguerite only four inches high from a two-inch pot, than one four feet high from a four—inch pot. In the latter case the plant has become woody and hopelessly pot—bound; and unless the roots are torn apart, is handicapped from the start and soon outstripped by the smaller, free-rooted subject. Further, while this tearing apart process may be performed with impunity during overcast weather, at most other times it is attended with disaster. If impatient for immediate efiects, and you can afford it, by all means get the three—foot coleus or petunia; but be sure that it has come from a seven or eight—inch pOt and of luxuriant growth; in that way alone can you count a positive gain over the tiny two-inch pot plant. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 27 With a few truly hard wooded species the same rule applies; but only to those of phenomenally rapid growth; among theSe we rate many eucalyptus, acacias, the casu— arins, grevillias and at least two native conifers—the Monterey pine and cypress. Here again the large plant is useful only when a “specimen” is desired—to-Wit, one that has never under— gone a check, but been kept continuously pushed and growing at every stage of existence from the seed bed to your garden. It is a positive gain to secure in large size any tree, plant or shrub whose habit of growth is slow or tedious. Compare two of our native palms, the well known thread—leafed fan palm (Washingtonia filifera) and the beautiful blue leaved Erytheoea armata of the peninsula. The former may be readily grown to a height of two feet from the seed in two years, and quite five years must elapse to secure like results with the latter. Many extra tropical palms, Kentias, Chamoerops, Livistonas, etc., grow but slowly while young (unless forced), and the charming plumed cocoanut (Cocos plu- mosa) seldom develops a single character leaf till three or four years old from the seed. Many coniferous evergreens, such as cedars, spruces, yews, as well as broad-leafed evergreens Ilke magnolias, laurels and pittosporums, are of but tedious progression when young. Camellias, azaleas and hollies come within the same category, and it is obvious that in these cases the largest plants can be used to positive advantage. In- deed the only restrictions need be in the length of one’s 28 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. purse and in the selection of vigorous, well grown, well shaped subjects. PRUNING. The best advice that can be given to people about to prune is the same as Punch’s advice to people about to marry—don’t. Within the limits allotted to this topic it is impos- sible to cover more than general grounds. To say that the knife can be used freely upon soft-wooded, quick— growing plants, and sparingly if at all, by the tyro, upon hard-wooded, slow—growing subjects. A dead, brokenhor wounded branch always suggests a proper remedy—the knife. A sucker, or sucker—like growth from within the body of a hard wood plant, or a palpably straggling sideshoot from the same, bespeaks exc1sion or shortening in. If your fingers itch to use the shears, begin at the top in preference to the bottom. The destruction of a leading shoot of an araucaria is considered an irreparable injury, yet of inconsiderable moment compared to the mischief of pruning up the lower branches in order to operate the lawn mower. By repeatedly topping back, you will in time have nothing that resembles an araucaria. but at least will ' have a very handsome, evergreen bush. With rapid growing, flowering, shrubby or shrub— like plants, such as myrtles, abutilons, laurestinus, lemon verbenas, heliotropes, geraniums and the like, and where it is desired to restrain them within reasonable bounds, a close, uniform shearing into pin—cushion form is not , GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 29 harmful, as in good soil and if in lusty growth they will repay the care that is or should be put upon the trim— ming of a rosebush. While upon the subject of pruning, some remarks are here interpolated upon the cutting in of roses, al— though extended attention is accorded that plant in a future chapter. The “art” of pruning roses is in no Wise occult. Briefly put, it consists in the complete removal of ALL Wiry, stubby, short—jointed growths, and in particu— lar those intricate branches which infest the heart or center of the bush. Then the shortening in of one-quar- ter to one—half in length of the robuster shoots, according as it may be desired to grow the plant to large or small dimensions. In fact this “shortening in,” so uniformly followed, is of little consequence as compared with the importance of clearing out the ragged interior growths, and except in the case of some very wayward or straggling shoot, ma}r be dispensed with altogether. It is understood that these remarks strictly apply to such varieties as we cultivate out of doors as ever— —blooming “bush” roses. To those of scandent or trailing habit a different treatment must be accorded, and which will be dealt with under the proper caption. as THE GARDEN $8 The garden is the touch of nature which mediates between the seclusion of the home and the publicity of the street. It is nature controlled by art. In this assem— bling of trees, shrubbery, vines and flowers about the home, in this massing of greenswa-rd or beds of bloom, man is conjuring the beauties of nature into being at his very doorstep, and compelling them to refresh his soul with an ever—changing pageantry of life and color. Unfortunately in this workaday world the possibility of the householder to be also a gardener is regulated by severe necessity. As men crowd together, the value of land increases, and so it is that in the heart of a large city only an enlightened public sentiment makes practicable the setting apart of areas where all may enjoy the redeem- ing grace of foliage and flowers. In proportion to the scattering of men is the extension of the garden possible, until the limit is reached in the lodge amid the wilder— ness, where the overpowering presence of nature makes the intrusion of an artificial garden an impertinence. In the village, then, the opportunities of the garden seem to be greatest. But even the city home need not be wholly without the purifying influence of plants and flowers. W’here houses are most congested and there is no land about the walls, one may resort to potted plants, and the streets may be decorated with palms or small trees in tubs or big terra cotta pots. Vines may be planted in long wooden boxes, or, better still, in cement troughs against the sides of the GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 31 house. If one objects to growing flowers in the rooms, little balconies or railed—in brackets may be built outside the windows for holding rows of potted plants. Hanging baskets containing vines or ferns are most effective on porches, while boxes of earth may stand upon upper balconies from which vines may grow and trail over the outer walls. Another expedient in the absence of land about the home is the roof garden. If this were sheltered from the prevailing wind with a wall or a screen of glass it would give the urbanite a miniature park where he could enjoy fresh air in seclusion. But these devices are all makeshifts for the unfortu- nate ones who must live in the heart of a City. When a home is built in the town or country the matter of a garden must be taken into consideration. Indeed, this should be studied even before the house is located on the land. Modern town lots are commonly cut up in long narrow strips so that by putting the house in the midst of a lot there will be a front and a back yard. This conven— tional arrangement has its advantages, although as a rule an unnecessary amount of space is wasted on the back yard, the chief utility of which seems to be to afford room for the garbage barrel and for drying clothes. If a hint is taken from the compact method of clothes-drying practiced by the Chinese at their laundries, the land so often set apart for this purpose can be greatly restricted, thus correspondingly enlarging the garden. Two alter— natives then remain—to place the house far back on the lot and have the garden all at the front, or to bring the house forward and have a small Open plot in front and a retired garden in the rear. 32 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. Upon hillsides, if the streets are laid out in a rational manner to conform with the contour of the land, wind- ing naturally up the slopes, the lots will of necessity be cut into all sorts of irregular shapes. This gives endless latitude in the placing of the houses upon the lots, so that unconventional groups of buildings may be set upon the landscape in the most picturesque fashion. But even when the lots are of the usual rectangular shape, much ingenuity may be exercised in the location of the house with reference to the garden. I have in mind one small corner lot with a stream winding through it, shaded by venerable live—oaks. By putting the rear of the house on the property line of the side street the front was close to the bank of the stream and was approached by a simple brick bridge which led to the broad veranda about the entrance. This unusual location gave the effect of a large front garden, and made the stream the principal feature. A‘ more conventional arrangement would have relegated this charming little watercourse to the back yard. In considering the garden two pronounced types are encountered—the natural and formal—each of which is . subject to two modes of treatment according to the char- acter of vegetation used, whether this be predominantly indigenous or predominantly exotic. By a natural garden I understand one that simulates, as nearly as may be, the charm of the wilderness, tamed and diversified for convenience and accessibility. A treat- ment of this sort demands very considerable stretches of land to produce a successful result. The English parks are probably the finest examples of this type, which can GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 33 hardly be successfully applied to town lots not over a hun- dred feet in width at most. In a district where the lots are happily laid out on a somewhat more generous plan, and especially where nature has not been already despoiled of all her charms, this form of garden may be developed to best advantage. Nothing could give greater sense of peace and charm than a grove of noble trees, varied with live-oaks, and with other native trees and shrubs grow- ing in their shade, such as madrona and manzani‘ta, sweet- scented shrub, wild currant, redbud and azalea, with wild flowers peering from the leafy covert—the hound’s tongue, baby-blue-eyes, shooting-star, fritillaria, eschscholtzia and a host of others. About such a garden as this there is a purer sentiment, a more refined love of nature undefiled, than can be obtained by more artificial means; but such a garden neeeds room. Big trees, and especially such na— tive evregreens as the redwood and live—oak, take an un— expected amount of space, and if crowded together make the surroundings too dark and gloomy. It may be sug- gested that there are plenty of smaller native trees and shrubs that can be used, which will be adapted to a re— stricted plot of ground. Practically it will be found, it seems to me, that a garden thus limited to indigenous plants will prove rather dull in color and lacking in char— acter. Without the woodsy effect of light and shadow, or the brilliance of cultivated flowers, the little patch of green will be apt to seem rather commonplace. This brings me to the second treatment of the natural type of garden-—the introduction of exotic plants into the scheme. The Coast of California, as far north as the San Francisco Bay region, and the interior valleys for a 34 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. hundred miles and more farther to the northward, have a climate of such temperateness that an extraordinary va- riety of exotics will thrive which, in less favored regions, would only live under glass. Bamboo, pams, dracaenas, magnolias, oranges, bananas and innumerable other fra— grant or showy plants of New Zealand and Australia, of Africa, South America and the Indies, grow with the hardihood of natives. Among the trees most commonly introduced are such as the eucalypti, acacias, pittospo- rums, grevilias and araucarias, but the number of suc- cessfully growing exotics is bewildering. Flowers which in colder climates must be carefully tended in pots, grow here like rank weeds, while vines that in more rugged Io— calities develop a few timid sprays, shoot up here like Jack’s beanstalk. An entire house may be embowered in a single rose vine. Geranium hedges may grow to a height of eight feet or more. It is a common sight to see hundreds of feet of stone wall so packed with the pink blossoms of the ivy-geranium that it appears like a con— tinuous mass of bloom. The calla sends up its broad leaves and White cups as high as a man’s head. The lemon verbena grows into a tree. In the old-fashioned California gardens advantage was taken of this prodigal growth, but without much study of arrangement. They were natural gardens of exotics, with curved paths, violet bordered, winding through the shrubbery. Often there was great incongru— ity in the assembling of plant forms, and the charm lay in the individual plants rather than in the ensemble. Over against the natural garden, whether of indi— genous or exotic plants, may be set by way of contrast, GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 35 the formal garden. The Italians are masters of this type of garden architecture, and it is to them that Californians may well turn for inspiration. A formal garden is one arranged according to an architectural plan, with terraces, pools, fountains and water—courses, out-of-door rooms and some suggestions of architectural or sculptural adorn- ment. It would be possible to design a formal garden ex- clusively or mainly of indigenous plants, but this would unnecessarily cramp the artist in his work. By having a choice of all the temperate plants of the world, the land— scape gardener is given limitless power of expression in his art. It is, of course, a prime essential to consider the effects of massing and grouping, the juxtaposition of plants that seem to belong together, and a due regard for harmony in color scheme. Another type which may be studied by the Califor— nians to great advantage is the Japanese garden. Con- ventional to a degree with which the Western mind can— not be expected to sympathize, it is, nevertheless, a min— iature copy of nature made with that consummate esthetic taste characteristic of the Japanese race. The garden as they conceive it must have its mimic mountains and lakes, its rivulets spanned by arching bridges, its special trees and stones, all prescribed and named according to certain stereotyped plans. But despite all this conservatism and conventionality, the details are free and graceful, with a completeness and subtlety of finish that makes the West— ern garden seem crude and commonplace by comparison. T'heir carved gates, patterned bamboo fences, stone lan— terns, thatched summer houses, and other ornamental ac- cessories are original and graceful in every detail. Like 36 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. the Italians, the Japanese make use of retired nooks and out—of—door rooms, while artificial water—courses are fea— tures of their gardens. My desire in calling especial attention to these two types of gardens developed by races as widely sundered as the Italian and Japanese, is not that we in California should imitate either, or make a vulgar mixture of the two, but, rather, by a careful study of both, to select those features which are best adapted to our life and landscape, so that a new and distinctive type of garden may be evolved here, based upon the best examples of foreign lands. As to the precise form which this new garden type of California should assume, it is perhaps prema— ture to say, but one thing is vital, that at least a portion of the space should be sequestered: from public view, forming a room walled in with growing things and yet giving free access to light and air. To accomplish this there must be hedges or vine-covered walls or trellises, with rustic benches and tables to make the garden habit- able. If two or more of these bowers are planned, con— nected by sheltered paths, a center of interest for the de— velopment of the garden scheme will be at once available. My own preference for a garden for the simple home is a compromise between the natural and formal types—a comproimse in which the carefully studied plan is con— cealed by a touch of careless grace that makes it appear as if nature had unconsciously made bowers and paths and sheltering hedges. In the selection of plants there is one point which may be well kept in mind—to strive for a mass of bloom at all periods of the year. A little study of the seasons at GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 37 which various species flower will enable one to have his garden a constant carnival of gay color. As the China lilies and snowdrops wane in midwinter, the iris puts forth its royal purple blossoms, followed by the tulips, the cannas, the geraniums, and the roses (both of which latter are seldom entirely devoid of blossoms). In mid- summer there are eschscholtzias, poppies, hollyhocks, sweet peas and marigolds, while chrystanthemums bloom in the autumn and early winter. These are but the slightest hints of the way in which a study of the floral procession of the seasons makes it possible to keep the garden agl'ow with color at all seasons of the year. Let us, then, by all means, make the most of ‘our gar- dens, studying them as an art—the extension of archi— tecture into the domain of life and light. Let us have gardens wherein we can assemble for play or where we may sit in seclusion at work; gardens that will exhilarate our souls by the harmony and glory of pure and brilliant color, that will nourish our fancy with suggestions of ro- mance as we sit in the shadow of the palm and listen to the whisper of rustling bamboo; gardens that will bring nature to our homes and chasten our lives by contact with the purity of the great Earth Mother.—Extract from I m- pressions Quarterly by Charles Keeler. g‘ \:;> \ \ 37.14:! / , . (f: g: )g j ( // (:A‘ff\ // Ii: 9’ 3\W'N ‘\ \V \\ i - :EW $}; 5% ¥ 1 k . 1)., Vi“ fl .wfifid erg THE ROSE 32,0 Location—of Beds—Exposure—Preparation' of Soil—Fertilizers——Plants and Season of Planting—Subsequent Treatment. HE imperishable rose, the queen of flow— ers, the beauty of which is as irresistible today as it was when it bloomed in the rose gardens of Jericho, three thousand years ago. It is not within the province A of this article to enter into a discussion of the origin or legend of the rose, we proceed at once to its culture in California. California, and especially Southern California, is noted the world over for its profusion of flowers, in sea— son and out, with the rose a great favorite. For a brief period, varying with the earliness or tar— diness 0f the season, fair flowers in astonishing pro- fusion occur. The facility with which a more uniform temperature is maintained in a greenhouse, is in itself all sufficient to explain why the fair to middling glass grown flower is immeasurably finer than the very best of our out-0f- doors grown roses. Soil is the factor of least importance; it can be made or assisted, but out—of—doors climate cannot be controlled, and the most careful cultivator, may on the eve of frui- tion find the July crOp succumb to a mid—day rise in temperature of 96 degrees F., followed by a night mini- mum of 54 degrees. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 39 Nevertheless these extremes do not always occur just as the flowers are expanding, and the grower who rigor— ously adheres to system will win more times than he loses. ‘ i j 7 H . 51"?“ “a; We speak of “crops,” and no one will ever succeed n growing out—door roses, to perfection until they abandon the catalogue makers’ fetich of “everbloomers” and rate the rose 'where it belongs, as a plant having more or less frequently recurring CROPS of flowers. It cannot be gainsaid that a few'sorts, like Marie von Houtte and Duchesse de Brabant, under the constant stimuli of heat, water and manure, will continue to bear more or less throughout the year; but as soon as these are treated rationally they will quickly discontinue the constant issuance of a scattered supply of abortive, in— significant flowers, and in lieu yield three or more crops of magnificent blooms. Rational treatment implies a season of rest; and rest is no more nor less than a period of inactivity best effected by the withholding of water. So much stress do we lay upon the importance of this subject that if asked to concisely state the three most important factors in successful out—of—doors rose growing, would say: First, a period of rest. Second, a period of complete rest. Third, a period of profound rest. In cold climates nature provides for this, and the plant “goes dormant,” i. e., rests long enough through the winter to recuperate from the strain of flower bearing 40 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. and stores up enough vitality for another season’s cam— paign. The California gardener helplessly surveys his rose bushes, promiscuously scattered about in beds with other plants requiring constant irrigation. Still worse, they have perhaps been planted in the lawn, yet more exigeant of water, and then he feels that the case is quite hopeless. In such an event, and Where the .plants cannot be removed, the best remedy is to increase and perpetuate the evil by unlimited driving with unstinted and incessant use Of both water and manure. I If the varieties happen to be “forcing” sorts, and the season a warm one, good results may be had; but it is a desperate remedy and after a few years will result in the deterioration and decay of both flowers and plants. Where the opportunity exists to grow the rose to per- fection it demands the following Of a system, and for the benefit of those who can prosecute it to a finish we set forth the details. I LOCATION. Where the yard, grounds or garden admits, the bed or beds should be to the rear, or at some point where it is not a conspicuous feature; for harsh as it sounds, the plant which produces the queen Of flowers when not in bloom, and well grown, is largely divested Of foliage and is then a most unlovely object. As this condition will prevail for nearly half the year, the reason for the seclu- sion Of the rose garden is Obvious. The bed or beds should be so planned to be remote from grass or any plant requiring constant irrigation. PAPA GONTIER “.11? 3’ «Mum. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 41 It is imperative to ascertain that there is no imme- diate neighborhood drainage which may carry water to the rose plat below the surface. If this occurs it will de— feat the end in view, and render void any precautions the grower may take in regard to surface watering. Where space admits, it is wise to split up the rose garden into three, four or more completely isolated beds, separated by considerable uncultivated areas; then by prolonging the flowering season of one plot, successional and continuous flowers may be had throughout the year. The separate bed system applies as well with a dozen roses as with a hundred ; the principle involved, 1'. e., the securing of periods of rest is the desired end—be the scale of operation large or small. EXPOSURE. Any full sun exposure will answer, even a southern one; provided the south aspect be not backed up by a wall, fence or building to radiate an excess of reflected heat. To this rule we make the exception thata very few roses flourish better with exposure to the sun for only half the day—preferably in the morning. The most de- sirable varieties so affected are, Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, Niphetos, climbing Niphetos and Souvenir de la Malmaison. SOIL. A strong, clay-like loam is the best; but “adobe” manipulated in the way described in a previous chapter, is a strong competitor, nor need thin sandy loam, nor sterile, red gravel discourage the rosarian; it simply ex— 42 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. acts the more liberal and frequent application of fertiliz- ers in order to achieve a fair measure of success. PREPARATION OF SOIL. The soil should be well worked over, spading or fork- ing in a light top dressing Of manure. If thoroughly de- composed it may be liberally applied; if not, then spar- ingly. A rosebush when first planted is apt to have some bruised or mangled roots, and although a rank feeder, direct contact of manure to an injured root is apt to re- sult disastrously, and certain to if fermentation sets up in the impending soil. When in lush, vigorous growth and apparently least in need of it, is the time when roses may most profitably be stimulated with fertilizers. Per contra, when lan- guishing and in delicate form, freedom from stimulants is the treatment indicated. FERTILIZERS. Barnyard or cow manure is undoubtedly the best all around fertilizer for out Of door rose plants.* When *The analytical statistics published by the various experi- ment stations of the agricultural colleges throughout the country as a rule accord a much higher plant nutrition value to cow than horse manure. This is misleading, as it depends entirely upon the nature of the rations fed to each animal. In California, Outside of a few dairies conducted upon scien- tific methods, the cattle are dependent mainly upon native pasture, alfalfa and barley hay; and the manure from such sources, especially if it has bleached out for two or three years in rain and sun, In an Open corral, has if anything less economic value than ordinary stable manure. About two—thirds of the cow manure offered for sale in California towns is of this character. The price demanded is generally twice to three times that asked for stable manure, with a true commercial value rather less than the latter. Caveat emptor. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 43 nof available, well decomposed stable manure, with an occasional sprinkling of bone meal will be found al- most as efficacious. When well set with buds, a bi- weekly application of liquid manure, or better still, the use of water to which has been added a little guano or soot, collected from pipes or chimneys where wood only is burned, will impart a wonderful gloss to the foliage and enhance the color and brilliancy of the flower. PLANTS AND SEASON 0F PLANTING. Theoretically, roses may be transplanted at any time, but the most satisfactory results follow from early _ spring planting. For most parts of Southern California this may be done throughout the winter, but many tender Noisette and tea varieties establish themselves but poorly when night temperatures fall for any continued period below 28 or 30 degrees F. Hence, for northern and central California the most auspicious time most years, would occur during the months of February and March. The very best rose to plant is the field grown, bare rooted, nursery plant—not the pot-grown, greenhouse subject. The former probably has been stimulated, but long before the planting season the grower has “dried them off,” i. e., rested them for the purpose of having dormant plants, and the rosarian has the benefit of im- mediate growth when they are set out. The only use of the pot-grown plant is for belated planters. They can be utilized throughout the hottest summer weather when the transplanting of the field- grown article would be attended with much risk. When dug from the nursery there is always a loss of 44 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. the feeding or fibrous roots, and to counterbalance this «the plant then exacts more severe pruning than required during its future career. When planting, set a little deeper than it originally grew; firm the soil solidly, soak thoroughly, apply a good mulch of manure about the plant, and then, unless the season be one entirely devoid of rainfall, leave them for the present severely alone. ~ In two or three weeks they should begin to “break,” that is, to push their buds, and in another like period should be covered with young growth of four to six inches. SUBSEQUENT TREATMENT. We now have evidence that the plant has made new root growth and is established. From now on they may be rushed. At this stage a rose in the open can hardly be over—stimulated. Water galore may be used, and whenever the condition of the soil per- mits the mulch of manure may be forked in about the roots. As growth progresses the ground may be fre— quently stirred in order to increase its warmth, leaving it rough—not raked off to a fine and attractive finish at the expense of diminishing its absorbent area; and from the time that the first tiny flower bud appears until the same is fully expanded, copious applications of liquid manure may be given once or twice a week. At this point all Operations should come to a dead stand-still. The last watering has been given, and no cultivation should follow that; the end being now to accelerate the drying out of the soil and compelling the plant into taking a season of rest. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 45 The time that must now elapse before the plant gives evidence of dormancy will measurably depend upon the nature of the soil and its retentiveness of moisture. It will sometimes occur in one month—sometimes will take two; whichever it be, during that term the plant should continue to flower freely and well until the spring growths begin to ripen and harden, when the re- maining flower buds will deteriorate in size and fre— quency, and if the operation has been completely success— ful will be practically suspended. Now comes the ap- proach of hot weather, and yet for another month the process of drying ofi’ must be carried on. This is the critical time that calls for watchfulness to see that “drying out” does not culminate in dying out. To plants established for a year or more, unless grown in a sand bed or in a gravel pit, this disaster is almost impossible, and when apparently moribund can be revived; but with subjects in their first year, it will be expedient for the tyro to halt when the leaves begin to yellow, and before the young bark shows signs of shrivel- ing. Now is the time when the shears come in play and all wiry, stubby, short jointed growths, particularly those from the interior are removed. No not attempt to shape the bush, but shorten in the remaining shoots a little, cutting back the weaker growths more heavily that the stout ones. When completed the job will not look pretty, but it is roses—not bushes we are seeking. All is now ready, for the next crop. The first step is an irrigation—a thorough saturation of the soil; and the 46 \ GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. moment the soil is tractable it is to be worked up anew with another top dressing of manure, kept well tilled and watered until the appearance of the first bud, when re- course is had once mOre to the use of liquid or soluble manures. Now you are rewarded with a superb crop of mid- summer flwers, while the neighbors are struggling with the miseries of mildew and other ills that rose flesh is heir to. As previously noted, the risk is run at this season of a few days characterized by violent fluctuation of tem- perature, when despite your efforts some of the crop may prove defective; but before exhausted, it is more than cer- tain there will be some period when the climatic condi- tions are more uniform, and during that time the flowers will be fine enough to compensate many fold for a partial crop. The repetition of the foregoing programme for the third time is entirely practicable, but attended with more difficulty. The soil now is very warm and tends to stim- ulate continuous growth and consequent flowering. Complete cessation of watering must be achieved, but by more gradual steps, otherwise the wood made dur- ing the campaign just completed will fail to ripen enough to insure the third crop, and an indispensable condition to successive good crops of flowers is the constant produc- tion of abundant, vigorous, and well ripened young wood It will be remembered that the possibility of securing three good crops of flowers by what I am pleased to call the rational system depends upon the use of strong field— grown bushes of one or more years at the time of plant- r, ) ‘\ fix»), 4M, , 3‘ "‘"N‘m ' .. vVN Lam.“ l—A rose from which the leaves have been 2—The same after proper pruning. 3—The same as seen in most Celitor- removed and requiring pruning. nia gardens after it has recelved its shearing—called pruning. 48 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. ing. Where the little two—inch pot plant is used, such a scheme would result in certain loss of the plant. In that case the treatment is simply to grow it continuously the first year by driving it for all that is in it, irrespective of the quantity or quality of flowers produced. Further, it applies only to the so called “ever-bloom— ers,” i. e., the teas, hybrid teas, and some Noisettes. With the true hybrids the process cannot (with a few exceptions) be successfully prosecuted for more than two crops. Mostly stronger growers, with heavier branch and root, the season is not sufficiently long to assuredly pred- icate the complete ripening off of the plant more than twice. To achieve perfect flowers, and to follow the practice here laid down, is obviously to discredit the planting of climbing roses upon pillars, porches or verandas, un- less, indeed, from the bed in which they are set, all other plants are rigidly excluded. ' The exclusion is so seldom followed and the tempta— tion so great to introduce pretty border plants, that sooner or later the climbing roses, especially of the charm- ing Noisette type, succumb to the baleful influence of incessant growth, and either die young or at best yield up a continuous quota of deformed flowers and blighted foliage. If the heresies anent the climbing rose, here promul- gated, cannot be accepted by those who will not surrender the sentiment that invests a “rose embowered cottage,” then they are urged to minimize the evil by selecting some true botanical species like the Cherokee or Banksia of such robust habit and vigorous constitution that they submit gracefully for many years to the indignities of over-watering. it THE ROSE ,t? CONTINUED Pruning—Hybrid Perpetual Roses—~Forcing Roses—Budded or Grafted Roses. PRUNING. HE directions previously given apply not only to roses grown as bushes, but strictly Ito that very mixed and chaotic class grouped in American catalogues as “everbloomers.” Climbing roses, or rather such sorts as are in common use for covering walls, trellises, etc., require a radically dif- ferent treatment from that accorded to “bush” roses, or to even a climber that you desire to confine to bush form. It must not be forgotten that we have in cultivation no true climbing rose. That the term is purely a facon de parler to express a rose of trailing habit, and that it is chiefly such varieties as develop this habit to an ab— normal degree that we utilize as climbers. Few amateurs and not every rosarian is aware that the common “bush” roses of our gardens, the Duchess de Brabant, the Marie von Houtte, Laurette, and many other strong growing teas, can by a little manipulation be made to cover an area and attain a height but little in— ferior to William Allen Richardson or Celine Forestier, varieties invariably listed as “climbing sorts.” It simply means that there are some teas and Noisette roses of stronger and more vigorous habit than others, and that such are recommended by growers for mural 11.565! 50 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. There are, however, a few distinctive sorts, mainly good botanical species of such rampant habit that the gen‘ eric term “climbers” fairly applies to them. The Banksias and Prairie roses, Cherokee and Ayrshire roses certainly fall within this group, and the remarks here offered on pruning of climbing roses does not apply to them but to such teas or noisettes that by virtue of their vigorous growth and freedom of flowering are most commonly found upon our verandas. Training, then, of any rose whose scandent propensities we desire to encourage, should begin with its first season. One, two or even more canes may be permitted to grow, but the number once decided upon should be ad— hered to, and all others, be they weak or strong, re— moved as fast as they appear. All lateral (side) shoots and flower buds should also be cut out the first season and the plant accorded con- tinuous culture throughout this first year. If as many as three good permanent heads are de- sired, it is wise to allow as many as four or five to begin with, and during the first summer to remove the one or two that show the most weakness. At the end of the first year there are now three strong canes which forms the foundation for the future vine. Now, or at no future stage of their existence should these canes or “leaders” ever be shortened in or cut back unless they reach a point beyond which they can no longer be trained or c‘ontrolled.* The second year lateral growth should be permitted and the vine should flower well, and thereafter the an- 4-”,‘uk4 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 51 nual winter pruning should consist in the complete re- moval of all of these summer-made laterals, close up to the original leaders. Climbing roses, while equally amenable to the “ra- tional system,” cannot, by reason of their superior vigor and indisposition to “go dormant,” be successfully “treat‘ ed” for more than two crops. In that case the midsum- mer pruning of the laterals should be identical with that prescribed for bush roses, i. e., the removal of thin, wiry shoots, and moderate cutting back of the stronger. Under any treatment, a rose that has been grown as a climber will with old age sometimes become hide—bound and refuse to “break,” i. e., leaf out freely. They should then be taken down and the branches or canes bent or bowed into hoop shape, almost to the ,point of cracking, and in that condition tied or pegged down 'to the ground for a few days, and then restored to place. This ruptures many of the ossified sap ducts and promotes a lively circulation in the active ones, which quickly results in new and abundant foliage. Good and abundant foliage would seem to be an in- dispensable requisite to a rose or any other plant designed to cover a screen, trellis or veranda, and yet from the practical exclusion of the few varieties that will accom- *It will sometimes occur that a “leader” obstinately refuses to pick up its threads and continue to grow from the point where it left off the preceding season. In that event some strong, new growth 15 invariably certain to spring from some lower point upon the same cane. 50 soon as this new shoot has demonstrated its superior vigor, then is the time to cut back the old leader to the point where the new shoot originated, and thenceforth the latter becomes the leader. 52 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. plish this purpose—varieties that have been previously named—and the substitution of sorts that will prove un- satisfactory, except under the treatment they so seldom receive, leads me to think my position an isolated one, and that most gardeners elect to have some bad flowers and some bad foliage ALL the time, in preference to good foliage all the time and good flowers only part of the time. Marechal Neil, Lamarck, and Reine Marie Henriette comprise ninety per cent. of all the climbing roses found on California houses. Seven or eight per cent. of the remainder is made up of Reve (1’ Or, Gloire de Dijon, Cloth of Gold, William Allen Richardson, and Fortune’s Yellow. None of these, with the single exception of the latter, which appears in catalogues under the various names of Beauty of Glazenwood, Fortune’s Favorite, Ophirie and Gold of Ophir—all seedlings of Fortune’s Yellow, and un- doubtedly distinctive in minor detail, but all character- ized by the same habit and great similitude of form and color—can possibly be brought to perfection in this cli- mate, except upon a system which admits of two profound periods of rest in each year. When subjected to the starving process necessary in this climate to induce dormancy, and when divested of limb and leaf by pruning of their laterals, these climb- ing roses for nearly half the year are about as ill appear- ing as anything that can be selected for the decoration of a house front or a veranda. A Cherokee, which under the stimulus of water will continue throughout the year to unfold its glorious man- GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 53 tle of lustrous greenery, is rarely planted, because no amount of driving will make it yield a second crop of flowers. Hence at |the risk of prolixity I submit once more the propriety of removing the climbing rose as we know it, from the piazza to the back fence or back yard; and add that in this country, the rose or the rose-bed should never be incorporated as a feature in landscape work un- til such time as horticultural skill or talent shall devise some way to pick the plant up bodily and bring to the front while in flower, and as promptly transfer to the rear while in its decadence. HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. It has been my aim to avoid any detailed classifica- tion of roses. To dispense with all history and origin of the races and species which differentiate one sort from another. Those heretofore considered have been grouped under the comprehensive but unscientific headings, Ever- bloomers and Climbers. T'he Hybrid Perpetual or Remontant roses, being distinctive in every way, and demanding some modifica- tion of treatment, call for extended mention. The English name “perpetual” is misleading. The French name, Remontant, “rising again,” is somewhat better; for it involves a pleasing element of uncertainty as to the number of times the flowers will rise again, and averts the sense of disappointment which follows too much credence in the other meaning perpetual bloom. From every standpoint that goes to make an ideal rose, the Hybrid unqualifiedly holds first rank. In texture, form, size, brilliancy, fragrance, length 54 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. of stem and beauty of foliage, they far and away outclass the best of the teas, yet they are not too abundant in Northern California, and unknown factors in our South— ern gardens. Their unenviable reputation for producing but one annual crop is in a manner accountable for this; and the susceptibility of some few species to mildew and to the red rose fungus is another handicap. The first difficulty can be overcome by a rigid ad- herence to the rational system, but no attempt should be made to secure but two crops. 4 As a rule the hybrids do not flower till a full montli after the first crop of teas or ever-bloomers, and take a much longer time in which to perfect and ripen their wood, and this interposes a barrier to the production of more than two crOps before the advent of cold nights. In pruning it is advisable to cut in the strong shoots more severely than was recommended for the teas, but no pruning is to be done until the plant is about dormant and you are prepared again to rush them. In the East and in Europe this second crop is no more than an aftermath, and inferior at that, as it is the result of the continuous growth brought on by summer rains and summer heat. With us and our prolonged season, this second crop can be made an unequalled success by a vigorous enforce- - meat of the resting process. Gabriel Luizet, Marie Rudy, General Jaquiminot, Paul Neyron and Ulrich Brunner, I have found more tractable than any of the so-called “black velvet” roses, excepting from the latter de Rohan. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 55 By disbudding with an unsparing hand anything crowded and weak I have more than once been rewarded in late October and early November with flowers of su- perlative excellence, surpassing in magnificence anything in any other rose class to be obtained at that season. The fungus—the other bugbear referred to, is most easily controlled, and will be accorded consideration un- der the heading of diseases. FORCING ROSES. Under this name are included roses of many races. The term has no other than a trade significance, and applies only to those which respond freely to intensive culture; to those which, driven at high tension under glass, are forced to yield a long, protracted crop of fine flowers. After one season they are discarded by the progressive florist, who finds a new planting of young stock more profitable. This fact should be a mine of information in itself to the average out-door grower in California, whose plants as a rule are being stimulated with heat and water and kept at high pressure for nine months in the year. It is perfectly possible for the commercial grower, after giving a proper season of rest, to flower his' plants a second year; but in these days of fierce competition there is no remuneration except for the very best, and the very best can never be produced from plants whose vitality has been impaired, as those almost invariably are when sub- jected to a long continued and abnormal siege of forcing. Forcing roses are essentially florist’s flowers and the list of one dozen herewith given combines more than 56 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. ninety per cent of all the varieties of cut roses offered by florists in America. They of course are the varieties which respond to every day abuse in the form of excessive kindness, and the surest to succumb to it in the second or third year. The first half of the list does best in the north and in the interior where hotter summers prevail; but in general prove disappointing in the coast regions. The remainder attain to varying degrees of excellence, according to local conditions, while ALL are far inferior in every particular to the same varieties when forced under glass. The list is as follows: Anna -de Diesbach, American Beauty, General Jac- quiminot, Cornelia Cook, Perle des Jardins, Mad. Cusin, Ulrich Brunner, Papa Gontier, Bride, Catherine Mermet, La France, Red La France and Captain Christy. BUDDED 0R GRAFTED PLANTS. It is best for the beginner to procure roses grown from cuttings. When time and experience have made him fully familiar with rose foliage I advocate the grad~ ual low budding of all or most of his plants to the French brier (Rose de la Grifferaie) or to the common Prairie Queen. The best wild stocks will occasionally sucker, and un- less the rosarian is able to discriminate, and remove the offending growth, the bud will suffer and sometimes perish. Many that are of weak habit, when transferred to stronger stocks and innoculated just below the surface of the soil, will attain a size in one year that they will fail GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 57 to accomplish in three years upon Itheir own roots. Without budding, some of the loveliest roses known to cultivation are practical failures. Mad. Cusin, Black Prince, Andre Schwartz, Duchess of Edinborough, Mabel Morrison, Niphetos, and even the priceless Maréchal Niel, drag out a sickly and enfeebled existence upon their own roots; and although I have heard of these as flourishing finely from cuttings, am fully satisfied that such experiences are uncommon, and that in any event in better results would come to the same plant, in the same soil, upon budded stocks. Per contra, to bud such robust sorts as the Banksias, many Noisette and‘ Noisette teas, or Margottin, Neyron or Magna 'Charta, is obviously a work of supererogation. For high budding, that is, for the production of a standard or tea rose upon a stem three, four or more feet high, the Manetti, Banksia, Maiden’s Blush and English Brier (Rosa Canina) are very extensively used. My in- dividual preference is for the French brier, as the stem seems less inclined to crack, scald or sunburn upon the south side in our climate than any of those first named. at THE ROSE 3,. CONTINUED Propagation—By Budding—By Cutting—From Seed—Hybridization—Enemies and Dis- eases—Green Fly, Remedies—Green Beetle—Scale—Rust—-—Mildew. PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. _HE practice of budding in California differs in no particular from the operation as carried on elsewhere in the world; hence the subject might be dismissed by reference to the elementary text books on gardening or horticulture. This, how- ever, would convey the erroneous im- pression that the art of budding, simple as it is, is to be acquired from! books or illustrations on paper. This is no reflection upon the many scientific and eminently practical dissertions extant upon the subject; but I fully believe that instruction and illustration at the hands of an expert budder for ten minutes, is of more avail than as many weeks or months of study of all that has ever been published upon the subject. Considering as I do that budding is the panacea for many rose evils—for «the growing of sorts “that will not succeed in my garden,” it follows that the art becomes as necessary a part of the rosarian’s equipment as are shears, manure, water and insecticides. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 59 PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. Propagation by cuttings differing radically from old country methods calls for illustration and amplification. Cuttings are tO be taken from ripened wood only, when the plant is dormant, i. e., at rest. “Ripened wood” does not mean old, thick growths of two or more years; in fact, such are Objectionable as they take too long to root and become independent plants. A long shoot which has perfected a flower usually makes a good subject to cut into two, three or more lengths of six to eight inches each. The books give minute instructions about the neces- sity Of cutting exactly below an eye, of sloping the cut to such and such an angle, and much other information of abstract theoretical value elsewhere—but not here. Make up the cuttings with a keen knife—never with shears, which, however sharp, will bruise the wood at the point of section- and set up decay ”and subsequent failure. Strip the foliage, work them up quickly to prevent drying out; cut them square, sloping, zigzag, at joints, between joints or anywhere convenient; then, if the cli— matic conditions are favorable, the cuttings will grow. If not, they will fail despite a week’s labor and scientific efforts in the manipulation of each cutting. They may be set in sand, though any sandy, light, or well drained soil will answer. They must never be al- lowed to flag or suffer for want of water; hence the neces' sity of planting in boxes or soils that are well drained, as they require to be kept wet but not water-logged. 60 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. All hybrids or very hardy rose cuttings should be planted in November, December, or whenever they are entirely at rest. Teas, and varieties sensitive to frost a full month earlier if dormant at the time. If not, then defer making the cuttings till after February first, or un— til danger from extreme cold has passed, still assuming that dormant wood can be procured. This in winters of ordinary severity can always be assured. In planting out avoid a dark, sunless spot. Also avoid a full sun exposure. The happy mean is a broken sunlight; such as is afforded by a deciduous tree or a lath shading. Dibble the cuttings in deeply, leaving one or at most two eyes exposed, but do not push them in, as it is apt to lacerate the bark at the bottom end. Water well, and unless rainfall is abundant and frequent, keep the water- ings up. 7 If the season—the winter season, is abnormally warm the cuttings will all grow for about three weeks and then probably collapse, and no time should be lost in get- ting in another crop. If the temperatures are normal for the season, a good measure of success should follow. If rose cuttings in the open ground begin to grow “splendidly” within two or three weeks after planting, it is a certain index of failure. Pull them up and they will be found dead and blackened beneath the surface. If on the other hand, they remain bright for four to six weeks after insertion, but without pushing buds or giving evidence of growth; it is an equal augury of suc— cess, and you can predicate with certainty that in as many more weeks you will have as many young, rooted GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 61 plants to pot up as you have cuttings in this condition. From Seed. Rearing of roses from seed, and par- ticularly of new varieties by hybridization is a topic too generally overlooked or avoided by the current text books on rose growing. ' Perhaps this is accounted for by the fact that the operation of rearing new varieties has been confined to a few specialists—to a few close horticultural corporations. Perhaps because the subject has been invested with a bit of mystery that suggests the invocation of the black art, the over-riding of natural law; the planting of one thing with the certainty of something different resulting. There are, however, two good and sufficient reasons why the subject is dismissed from most of the disserta- tions upon the rose. One, the short season and natural difficulties to be overcome in those countries where rose growing is most largely carried on. The other, the profound, professional knowledge re- quired of all classes, races and habits of roses, as well as their history and genealogy in order to predicate intelli- gently the outcome of the operation. We have neither of these difficulties to contend with in California, and it is therefore more than germane to our subject to amplify upon the matter. The south of France has given birth to more than one-half of all the fine roses known, and practically all of the finest of those we know as everbloomers. There, mild winters and cloudless days give the cli- matic conditions required to ripen and perfect the rose hips. Just such conditions universally prevail in Cali- 62 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. " fornia, resulting in every unpruned rose garden in the state being covered every autumn with quantities of fruit and fertile seeds. From these seeds, gathered haphazard from a lot of mixed roses, if planted during the winter, about one inch deep in any good garden loam, plants will spring that can be made to flower the ensuing summer._ The experimenter will be surprised and delighted with the number of “new varieties” that follow; and though some of the most famous sorts known have sprung from just such chance work, the enthusiast must not anticipate too much; as the probabilities are great that not so much as ONE in a thousand will be superior to its parent. Still, if bees, bugs and insects have been busy dur- ing the summer, you can safely count upon a number of interesting and distinctive forms differing from anything heretofore seen, while the gambling instinct—the frac- tional possibility of winning a prize in the rose lottery— is a temptation to try for that one better rose, which when secured assures both fame and financial reward. As I have previously intimated, the raising of new roses that shall embody certain desired traits is one of the most occult branches of horticultural art. The world’s great rosarians, Ducher, Guillot, Lach- arme, Verdier and Paul, who have raised millions upon millions of plants and produced but a few score of im- mortal varieties; always work, or have worked upon well defined lines, invariably using roses of certain character- istics as the mother or seed producer; and inoculating it with sorts having some attribute they seek to perpetuate GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 63 in combination with the fixed or constant features of the flower. , 3 m , { 1, Q"! The acquisition of these details is a life study too voluminous to be transcribed into books; but has in Europe been transmitted as a precious inheritance from father down to son. Despite this, the bold outline, the modus operandi of hybridization is perhaps the simplest and most rudimen- tary element of horticulture. Unlike budding, it may be conveyed by precept almost as easily as by example. In brief, it is no more than the careful exploitation of a rose before it is fully expanded and the removal, by means of a narrow bladed scissors, of all the stamens be- fore any of the others are ruptured, i. 6., before becoming powdery with pollen dust. Then in promptly enclosing the bloom in a finely meshed gauze or cambric sack, to prevent the visits of in- quisitive insects or animal life. When the flower has become fairly expanded it is time to seek the pollen from some other variety, to gather it upon a common camel’s hair brush and to then trans- fer a little of it to the stigma of the original rose, promptly replacing the covering as soon as the operation is complete. As the stigma is not always in a receptive condition, 1'. e., in a state to insure fructification, the inexperienced may have to repeat the process on two or three successive days. . . When the petals fall and the stigma becomes dry, the covering can be removed and the stem marked for identi- fication till the fruit (hips) are perfectly mature. 64 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. Here then is a delightful avenue of recreation and instruction open to every possessor of a mixed rose garden. That the practitioner with this slender thread of knowledge will never be able to forecast results cannot be denied; but need not be debarred the pleasurable horti- cultural emotions of creating, with the ever constant prize in sight of a creation which will make‘ his name live for— 7 ever. “Your name from hence immortal life shall have, Though I, once gone, to all the world must die.” ENEMIES AND DISEASES. If an argument in behalf of systematic rose growing was required—the system which calls for an active season of growth followed by one of profound rest it is best furnished by the relative immunity of plants so grown from many insect pests, and almost complete exemption from many of the dreaded scales, the veritable bete noir of most California horticulturists. Plants so treated should never become debilitated, and it is enfeebled plants that soonest invite the attention of the scale insects. It does not follow that thrifty plants will not be at- tacked by them; but my own observation in both garden and orchard is, that plants as with animals in a fine state of health are best able to ward off and repel disease of any kind, and that remedial agents brought to bear against the enemy as we find him are sufficient for a healthy plant, and need not be supplemented by treatment to get it in shape to resist the next week or next month’s attack which as surely recurs to the weakling. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 65 GREEN FLY. The common aphis is a small, louse-like insect that at certain seasons infests the young succulent growth of roses. They are translucent and bright green in color, but when feeding on the reddish or coppery foliage of many roses, take on the color of the juices of which they eat. They multiply with alarming rapidity, and when their ravages are unchecked they become destructive of both flower and foliage. 'I‘hey thrive best in early spring un‘der a mild, humid atmosphere, and mostly disappear with the advent of continuous, hot, dry weather, and on the other extreme with the approach of the mercury to the freezing point. Meantime their ravages are worst in April, about the time when our finest crop of flowers is maturing. REMEDIES. Small or medium sized plants are easily treated. A big handful of tobacco stems is laid upon a few shavings on the ground close to the plant. It is fired, and the moment it springs into a blaze, is lightly sprinkled with water until the tobacco is well dampened. The result is a dense smudge, and at once a tight sugar barrel is clapped over the rose and enough soil thrown around the base to prevent the escape of the smoke. It is left on over night, and most times a single application will give a quietus to the lice. Where the plant is large or high, we must have re- course to a fine nozzled hand syringe and tobacco water. This is prepared by steeping over night one pound of tobacco stems in five gallons of water that has been 66 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. poured on boiling hot. Two or more applications may be necessary as the little pests will crawl to the under sides of leaves to escape what would otherwise be a fatal bath. Where the rose garden is large, and .the labor of cleansing would be great, the forceful application of water is the most practical, efficacious an‘d inexpensive remedy known to me. Success implies a very strong head of wa- ter, a hose, and a well directed, concentrated stream thrown upon the worst infected shoots. The remedy is entirely mechanical and unless the head of water be strong will prove ineffectual. The insects at noon are very active and are then prowling about in search of new pasture. At this time they lose their footing and are easily knocked off by the force of water. A‘ few will escape, a few will crawl back, but a million or so get irretrievably lost. The only plants of common occurence in our gardens for which the green fly shows more partiality than the rose, are cinnerarias, and the show or regal pelargoniums known as “Lady Washingtons.” The latter can be treated with the hose, but as the green fly mostly takes up his abode on the under side of the cinneraria leaf, the only effective way of dislodging him is by the smudge or hand syringe. GREEN BEETLE. This pest is not the simon pure rose bug. In color, size and-form, it closely resembles the squash bug, but in lieu of stripes wears eight to twelve well defined, handsome black spots upon a light green field. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 6'? It is quite omniverous, attacking with equal impar- tiality, roses, Chrysanthemums and dahlias. I His deadly method is to attack the half—formed bud or expanded flower and mangle and Worry it out of all recognition before moving to the next. This beetle, cutworms, caterpillars, and in fact all masticating insects are best eradicated by the use of some preparations of arsenic. Methods for the most inexpensive and efficacious ways of preparing and applying will be found in the ap- pendix. T'he rose beetle is sluggish and easily caught, and constant hand picking through the summer season will do much towards keeping them under control, and does away with the objections to the use of so fearful a poison as paris green. ROSE RUST. Some roses are subject to a fungous growth, chiefly confined to the under surface of the leaf. In its various stages it is all colors of rose, red, brick red and bright red. It is sometimes mistaken for red spider, but a careful inspection—without a lens, will tell the difference; the spider, minute as he is, will travel ——-the fungus don’t. This disease rarely occurs except upon the hybrid roses and if unchecked eventuates in the loss of flowers and foliage. Some of the best roses are more subject to its attacks than others. Black Prince, General Jacquim- inot, Géant des Battailles and the charmnig old Provence rose seem particularly susceptible; but none of the hybrids can be truly said to be exempt: 68 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. It is successfully treated with “Bordeaux Mixture,” the formula of which will also be found in the appendix. In the same place will also be given the formula of spraying washes for scale pests. Roses fortunately, while not altogether immune from the attacks of scale are relatively more free than many inhabitants of the garden; but where they get a foothold must be eradicated by spraying with one of the com- pounds found in the appendix. The enemies of the rose, and indeed of most garden plants, may be broadly classified in three groups. I. Those that bite, i. e., such as feed upon the tis- sues and mechanically destroy, consume, lacerate or bore holes in the stems, beetles, slugs and snails, are interest- ing illustrations of the class. These are all best subdued by the application of paris green—arsenic in some form or preparation. II. T'hose more dangerous parasites that flourish by suction, i. e.,‘by absorbing the sap and juices of the plant. Scale insects of all kinds make up this group, and they are best killed with penetrating mineral oils—kerosene in suspension or mineral oil has been found the most valued and efficacious agent for general use, although some hard shelled sorts refuse to submit to anything less potent than the fumes of the deadly hydrocyanic acid. III. Such vegetable micro-organisms as evidence themselves in blight, spot, rust or mildew. These dis- eases yield to spraying with copperas, or some such prep- aration as Bordeaux Mixture of which copperas is the ac- tive principle. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 69 MILDEW. As has been previously pointed out, mildew upon roses is sometimes precipitated by rapld changes of tem- perature. It is the logical sequence also of indiscriminate and reckless watering. It may and sometimes does follow when necessary irrigation with very cold water supervenes upon an ex- cessively hot day. The best directed effort cannot always avert this, but it is recommended that the irrigator consult the condi- tion of the SOIL, rather than the thermometer or his feel— ings on a sweltering summer evening before he turns the hydrants loose. The hot spell seldom lasts but three days, and the needless incautious use of water may result in a crop of mildew instead of midsummer flowers. It cannot be denied that some varieties of roses are (more susceptible to mildew than others. I never can recall seeing a vestige of mildew upon 'Archduke Charles or Laurette, though the surrounding conditions were good or ill. Nor have I ever been able by any style of treatment to so cultivate that otherwise grand rose Her Majesty, so as to entirely eliminate mildew. The susceptibility of many sorts to mildew until re- cent years was a consideration so great that it was the paramount issue among California growers in determin- ing what varieties they could plant afield. This factor is no longer a bugbear, and occasional spraying with Bordeaux mixture will bring the most re- belious attack of mildew to time. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 71 Not only is it a remedy, but a positive prophylactic; and it is now possible to defeat positive climatic vagaries by one or two anticipatory sprayings in early spring or after the close of the winter rains. The day of the tedious and unsatisfactory applica— tion of the flour of sulphur has passed away forever. Recent illustration in two gardens that until lately had been monopolized by the mildew blight, have satis- fied me that this preparation is one of the most bene— ficent instruments that ever has been placed at the com- mand of the rosarian. .«5 THE ROSE 3» CONTINUED Varieties—Standard of Excellence—Numbers of Varieties—New Roses—Selected List. ”@WR NlE is often called on to name the best fis‘Wifigs 5 51x, twelve or twenty-four roses for out i A32?“ ’4: ‘ of door use in California. Such lists will \‘ U CF ‘. invariably prove disappointing owing to r the diverse views as to What constitutes “very best rose.” To many planters it means only such roses as under haphazard treatment come the nearest to yielding an in— cessant and continuous supply of flowers, with more or less indifference to quality or character. Varieties that will make a record in this line are: Gloire dos Rosamannes,’Duchese de Brabant, 'Hermoso, - Marie von Houtte, 'Agrippina and'Safrano. To others “the best rose” is that which comes to a fair degree of perfection in winter, or in cold weather of early spring, before the general mob of roses have put on their finery, and when flowers of any kind are scarce and command a fair price. The most dependable for this purpose are Laurette,‘Elize Sauvage, Safrano,'Papa Gon— tier,'Souvenir de Mad Pernet, Auguste Guinnoiseau, (White La France). To others, a good hot weather rose is the desidera— tum. A really fine flower when most sorts are scorched or blasted by the hot suns of July—August, or are alto- gether out of bloom: Such are Marie Guillot, Franciska 72 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. Kruger, Caroline Testout, 'Viscountess Folkestone, La France and Meteor. To yet others, monster size is the sole consideration. For their benefit is enumerated: ‘Paul Neyron, Mer- veille de Lyon, 'Duchess of Albany, Paeonia, La. France, tReine Marie Henriette. Some perverted ( P) tastes find their ideas in grotes- que, bizarre or curious freaks in form or color. Such will be pleased with: ‘Rainbow, 'iVick’s Caprice, Viridiflora, Fortunes Yellow or Gold of Ophir and Archduke Charles. Lastly comes the connoisseur who seeks an ideal flow- er. Who cares only for quality, and yet expects it on the slipshod, hit or miss methods in common use, and who is unwilling to put forth systematic effort to attain the de- sired end. Varieties which will do this sometimes in the year, but never all the time are : Viscountess Folke- stone, ‘Captain Christy,'Caroline Testout, General Wash- ington, 'Ulrich Brunner, Mabel Morrison, 'Perle des Jar- dins, ‘Niphetos, ‘Souvenir de la Malmaison, Reve d’Or, Maréchal Neil and Marie van Houtte. STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE. The standard fixed by commercial growers is well de- fined and very exacting. They barely tolerate such sorts as Niphetos and Niel; their many excellencies almost, but not quite compensating for their weak and deficient stems. Mabel Morrison, loveliest of white roses, they look upon with scant favor. Its immaculate bloom and unsur- passed foliage makes inadequate return for its insufficient yield of flowers. To him, a rose without scent is a par- A CACTUS GARDEN. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 73 ody; and he would have as much use for a paper flower as for the altogether scenttless Marie Van Houtte. Excepting only La France, Marie Van Houtte is more widely planted than any other one Variety in South- ern California gardens. The facility with which La France cuttings will strike roots, and its common utiliza— tion for hedgerows alone accounts for its numerical su— periority, and the universal adoption of a sort like Van Houtte demonstrates that there must be among amateurs a crystallized sentiment of what constitutes a standard of excellence beyond the mere use of superlative adjec- tives. The florists standard is exact. He wants Captain Christy, and is able to tell why. It meets his require- ments as to stem, foliage, texture of petal and fragrance. Folketone is too papery in texture. Brunner holds its color to his satisfaction. He concedes that Neil is fault- less in form and fragrance, but lacks the stem to serve his purpose. I confess my inability to analyze the prin- ciples underlying the selection by the public of the roses planted in our gardens. The following six sorts repre- sent four—fifths of all the individuals found today in Southern California gardens. They are numbered ac- cording to their representation. No. I indicating the largest number of individuals. No. 2 the next greater number and so on. I La France; 2 Marie Van Houtte ; 3 Duchesse de Brabant; 4 Reine Marie Henriette; 5 Lam- arque; 6 Maréchal Niel.* *The data from which these statements are made has been most carefully prepared. I have not only made count in an infinite number of private city and country gardens, but have compared notes with fnany dealers whose experiences corrob- orate my own in the proportionate demands made upon them for these six varieties. 74 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. With the exception of No. I, all are seriously defec- tive in points that go to make up the rosarian’s standard of excellence. Nos. 2 and 4 are practically scentless. - No. 4 also fades into an offensive shade of magenta. No. 3 is flimsy in texture and has no lasting qualities; and 5 and 6 are both fatally defective in length and strength of stem. All these, even the hybrid No. 4, fall under the bane- ful and misleading caption of the catalogue makers “ever~ bloomer.” I suspect that it, rather than a concrete idea of points of excellence go far to account for the unwise preponderance of these sorts in our gardens. NU MBER OF VARIETIES. Varieties of roses run into the thousands, and the planting of an unlimited number of sorts is to be defended only upon the grounds that thereby the grower can de— termine what sorts best attain a high standard of. excel- lence. That some varieties have idiosyncrasies which affect them strongly cannot be disputed. That some are more sensitive than others to conditions of soil, climate and location is easily demonstrated. Etoile de Lyon, the finest perhaps of all the yellow teas, thrives in the hot interior, northern valleys; and at most places in the south is an unqualified failure. The same may be said of Shir— ley Hibbard, Mad Bravy, Mad Charles Wood and many others. * Her Majesty, a grand hybrid, in the same garden, and subject to the same treatment will develop perfect blooms upon one plant; and another, fifty feet away, will be literally consumed with mildew. Perle des Jardins, Cornelia Cook and Sunset seem affected by almost trivial GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. ' 75 differences of soil and in one garden will unfold their peerless flowers in perfection—and under like treatment— a block away yield a succession of blasted buds only. Elize Sauvage, a 'low grade flower from! a fiorist’s critical stand- ard; when grown on the decomposed granite foothill soil of the south, at once takes rank with Kaiserine, or the Bride. There is consequently no hard and fast rule that can be made to govern (the selection of varieties for out-door planting other than the planting of a large number and subsequent weeding—out of those that fall behind in the race. Finally, the wise grower with a hundred or more plants will not have to exceed ten or a dozen varieties, and then when flowers are‘ desired can cut a bunch of one shade or variety; for roses like all other flowers deterior- ate in beauty when grouped in a heterogeneous mixture of color. ' NEW ROSES. Every season quantities of new varieties are offered to buyers. These are supplemented with colored plates ‘true to nature” and descriptions of their glowing beau— ties in adjectives so superlative as to cause the dictionary to blush. It must be confessed that ninety-nine per cent of these are of indifferent value and quickly disappear from cultivation. Even as this is written, the new rose of today has become the “rose "of recent introduction,” and by tomorrow has most times fallen altogether out of the race. There is no reason, however, why the amateur with time, space, and means at command should not plunge heavily upon new roses. It is a gambling instinct at once fascinating and exciting; and after all, if ninety- 76 , GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. seven blanks in the rose lottery be drawn, the player is more than compensated if he has chanced to acquire a Kaiserin, a T estout, or a Maman Cochet. For the benefit of those desiring a wide latitude of choice, or who purpose to ultimately follow the weeding out process, the following select list of tried old varieties, and a few of the most promising newer sorts is here sub- mitted. They are broadly grouped under color heads, and subject to such reservations as have been made about rose idiosyncrasies. The list will be found a useful one for Southern California. WHITE 0R NEARLY so. PINK TO ROSE. Elize Sauvage, I Hermosa, I Mabel Morrison, 2 Caroline Testout, I Niphetos, I Paul Neyron, I Marie Guillot, I Maman Cochet, I Queen, I Countess Riza du Parc, I Mont Blanc, I Triomphe de Luxemburg, I Lamarque, Ic Catherine Mermet, I Aimee Vibert, Ic Mrs. John Laing, 2 Bride, I Magna Charta, 2 Devonien51s,1 _ . ROSE TO RED OR CARMINE. Kaiserm Aug. Victoria, I Papa Gontier, I Cornelia C0019 I Duchess of Albany, I gheil'plfee, 2 c Reine Marie Henriette, 2c 13:30:22! 55c I c Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, 2 c ’ Christine de Noue, I . FLESH COLOR TO BLUSH. Mad Lambard, I Laurette, I Aug. Guinnoiseau, I Duchesse de Brabant, I Bon Silene, I Jules Finger, I Vicountess Folkestone, I SCARLET To DEEP RED' Captain Christy, 2 G101re des Rosamannes, I Souvenir de la Malmaison, I Agrippina, 1 Charles Rovolli, I General Washington, 2 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 77 Ulrich Brunner, 2 Princess de Sagan, I Genl. Jacquiminot, 2 James Sprunt, I c DARK CRIMSON. Meteor, I Black Prince, 2 Prince Camille de Rohan, 2 Baron de Bonstetten,. 2 Empereur de Maroc, 2 Dr. Hogg, 2 Xavier Olibo, 2 SULPHUR T0 LIGHT YELLOW. Countess de Frigneuse, I Celine Forestier, Ic Coquette de Lyon, I Isabella Sprunt, I Chromatella, Ic Monsieur Furtado, I Mad Caroline Kuster, I DEEP YELLOW TO APRICOT. Safrano, I Perle des Jardins, I Princess Beatrice, I Reve d’Or, I c Marechal Niel, Ic Francisca Kruger, I Sunset, I Mad Falcot, I Wm. Allen Richardson, Ic Banksia Yellow, 2 c BIZARRES AND NONDESCRIPTS. Roses of various tinted, shaded and sunset colors, Marie von Houtte, I Claire Carnot, Ic Rainbow, I Archduke Charles, 2 Homere, I Mad de Watteville, I n Ophirie, 2 Gold of Ophir, 2 Fiametta Narbonnand, I Gloire de Dijon, I c Dr. Grill, I Grace Darling, I Mrd Berard, Ic M’lle Cecile Bruner, I Beauty of Glazenwood, 2c Syn Fortunes Double Yel— low, 2c . . LEGEND. I.—Indicates roses that are of all races, but generally classed as “eve rbloomers.” I c.——The same when of climbing or scandent habit. 2.—Stands for hybrid perpetuals strictly. Hints by Another Authority. An authority on rose growing, Mr. Eben E. Rexford says the rose likes a rather heavy soil—something that will make itself firm about its few and rather large roots. True, it will do quite well in a somewhat loose, open soil of loam, but it does so much better in a stiffer soil that it pays to provide it. Some of the finest roses I ever saw grew in clay containing coarse gravel. The finest rose I ever had grew in the rich soil of an old chipyard. The poorest ones I ever had grew in a soil composed of leaf- mold and loam, in a bed prepared with much trouble, un- der the impression that I was doing my plants a kindness by taking so much pains for them. They lived in it, but they failed to make a satisfactory growth, and gave few flowers, while those planted in the heavier soil of the gar— den flourished finely. Then it was that I discovered that I had made a serious mistake in thinking roses would do well in a light, spongy soil. Roses are great eaters. They will live for years in a poor soil, and produce a crop of flowers annually, but if you would have perfect flowers in profusion, it is impera- tively necessary that you feed your plants well. Nothing in the line of fertilizers suits them so well as old, thor— oughly rotten manure from the cow-yard. That which is black, and crumbles readily under the application of the hoe is the ideal manure for this plant. It should be used in liberal quantities, and worked into the soil well. Fresh manure should never be allowed to come in contact with the roots. If used at all, it should be applied to the sur- face of the soil, as part of a mulch. Other manures from the farm yard are good, however. Where they cannot GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 79 be obtained, guano or bone-meal can be substituted with good results. The dealer of whom you purchase will tell you how much to use about each plant, as he will under- stand the strength of the grade he handles. Those who live in the city will, as a general thing, find it necessary to depend upon one or the other of these fertilizers for rose food. Those living in the country will find Itheir plants greatly benefited by frequent applications of liquid manure during the building and flowering season, Canon Hole, who understands roses better than any other living man, I think, because he loves them so well that he has made Ithem a lifelong study, says: “The happy rosarian who has a farm yard at his disposal will, if he is wise, have a large tank in which to prepare liquid manure for his plants. At all times, and especially in seasons of drouth, this will be more precious as a restorative and tonic to his roses, than the waters of Kissengen and Vichy to his in- valid fellow man. Only let him remember this rule of ap- plication—weak and often rather than strong and sel- dom.” _ Roses grown for the market in the open ground ought, if possible, to be planted while dormant. To lift a plant after growth begins is to give it a check so severe that it will be a long time in recovering from it. T here- fore, planting very early in spring before the plant starts, or in Autumn, after growth ceases, is advised. I would advise buying plants grown on their own roots. A great deal of trouble results from the dying off of the graft, where budded roses are used. Stalks will be sent up from the roots, below the place of ‘ grafting, and these will grow luxuriantly, and the owner be cheated 80 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. into the belief that by and by he will have a magnificent crop of flowers from his vigorous plants. In planting roses, take care to have the hole made for them so large that all roots can be spread out naturally' Never twist or cramp them in an effort to get them into a hole too small for them. Bed the roots in fine soil, and when you have them c0vered, press it down well until it is firm about them. I will not advise scattering roses about the lawn. The fact is, few varieties are strong enough in their habit of growth to make satisfactory plants when standing alone. T'hey are unlike most shrubs in this respect. Therefore I would suggest planting them in groups. Set them from two and a half to three feet apart, using in each group only varieties of the same general habit. I would also ad- vise giving them a place at the side or rear of the lawn, rather than a prominent location on it. They are more ornamental than any other plant can be when in bloom, but when not in bloom they are not as attractive as most other shrubs. Therefore plant them where they can be enjoyed by the family, and throw upon shrubs with more attractive foliage. the responsibility of decorating the lawn. All roses ought to be pruned well at planting time. Some of their roots have to be sacrificed, and a corre- sponding amount of branches should be cut away to bal- ance conditions. If any roots are bruised they should be shortened to induce the production of small feeding roots. It is impossible to formulate any inflexible rule for prun- ing the top, but, as a general thing, it is safe to cut away fully one—half the branches. This does not mean the re- moval of the entire branch by any means, but a shortening GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 81 of all the branches to an amount equal to one-half the original size of the plant. Sometimes it is advisable to cut the entire plant back to within a foot of the ground. This applies most forcibly to those of weak habit. T'hin out all superfluous branches, and leave the wood of last season’s growth in preference to that which is older. In this way we keep the plant at its best. Hybrid perpet- uals will require a second pruning in July, or as soon as the first flowering period is over. This will encourage the immediate production of new branches, upon which the flowers of the next crop will be borne, in due season, if all conditions are favorable. In order to facilitate this growth, feed the plant well. Tea roses will bloom well the first season, and as they are constant bloomers they are very desirable for summer beds. Two—year—old plants are preferable to the small ones dealers advertise so cheaply. Cut the plants back sharply when you set them out, and mulch the bed well during the hot weather of ‘summer. Grass clippings from the lawn are good for this purpose. Spread them about the roots of the plants———which should be set about a foot apart—to the depth of an inch or two. When they begin to decay, remove them, or dig them into the soil about your roses, and put on fresh clippings. You may not get many roses during the summer, but as soon as cool, fall weather sets in you will have flowers that will delight you, and every one who sees them, and, they will follow each other in rapid succession until cold weather comes. Provided, of course, you feed the plants well. Much . depends upon that, as I have already said. T'ea roses have the same unromantic appetite which characterizes the larger members of the family. 82 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. The rose has its enemies. The aphis and the leaf— roller, the rose—chafer and the slug, will all do their best—— or their worst—to injure it, and, if let alone, they will soon spoil your plants. I have found the most effective insecticide I have ever used in the ordinary laundry soap in. use in all households. Melt half a pound of it and add to it about twelve quarts of water, and apply this to your plants early in the season, with a sprayer such as garden- ers use in their operations among small fruit plants. It will prevent the aphis, and rose—chafer, and slug from tak— ing possession of your plants. Care must be taken, how~ ever to have it reach all parts of the plant. Let some one bend the bush over while you operate the hose of the sprayer, and you will find it an easy matter to get the ap- plication where it is most needed, which is the under side of the leaves. I would advise the use of this in- secticide as a preventive, for an"‘ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” they tell us. It is much easier to keep insects away than it is to get rid of them after they have established themselves on our plants. Bear this in mind and act on the offensive. The leaf-roller is most effectively fought by crushing it between flat sticks—that is, if you are too fastidious to use thumb and finger, prop- erly encased in leather gloves. Of late years, roses have been troubled considerably by a disease of fungous character, generally known as “black spot,” because of the effect it has upon the leaves of affected plants. Bordeaux mixture, such as gardeners make use of in spraying small fruits, plums and other garden products, will, if used promptly and persistently, soon overcome it. If nothing is done to check it, it will soon kill the plant it attacks, and spread to others. Wage war against it as soon as you discover black, rusty looking spots upon the foliage of your plants. ’ . it? POPULAR PERENNIALS 3f] Violets, Varieties of—Carnations, Propagation of—Disease of—Varieties of Chrysam themums—Propagation of— Treatment of. HE success with violets may be epito- mized in four words: Keep the ground cool. Natural conditions effect this upon the coast, and the result is finer plants and flowers the nearer we get to , the sea—coast. About the bay of San Francisco the conditions are ideal, and the flowers in pro— ductive quality cannot be excelled elsewhere in the world. Five to ten miles inland recourse must be had to mulch— ing the ground. Go as much further away and planting must be made in partial shade, and in the hot interior val- leys both shade and mulching are indispensable. At in- terior points the bed should be made in full sun and then protect-ed in summer by detachable lath frames. These may be removed in October or-November when violets re- joice in full sunlight and replaced again in April or May, when the plants are through flowering. A good substi— tute for the lath frame is to plant beneath the shade of a deciduous tree; but in that case the exigencies of water, cultivation and fertilizing are of course greater. Full shade is inimical to the production of fine and abund— ant flowers and four—fifths of the barren violet beds in the state will be found upon the north side of houses where they are untouched throughout the year by a single ray 84 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. of sunshine. As a lesser evil of two, the other extreme, a hot, southern exposure is preferable. If the lath shad- ing be impracticable, have recourse to the heaviest possi— ble mulch of fine hay and coarse manure, using the hay first and the manure on top, so as to offer no incentive for the roots to come to the surface, then with abundant wa- terings old Sol can do his worst unavailingly. The next element of success lies in suckering, and two or more complete suckerings are essential to the best results. Immediately after flowering the plants will start to “tiller” freely and these runners should be pinched off close up to the parent plant. This is also the opportune time to raise new plants for the renewal or extension of the patch. These runners, if set in a shady place and kept well watered will emit roots at this season in about two weeks, any may then be planted out with better success than in the cold season. Planted out in May, they can be made to at- tain maximum productive power the following spring. Violets are long lived, yet they deteriorate when the plants become a mass of woody crowns and pay for re- newal after the second or at longest the third season. Vio— lets delight in a heavy soil, porous enough to permit of deep rooting, but are cosmopolitan enough to grow almost anywhere. No plant of our gardens responds more freely to generous culture and soil deficiencies or excessive high temperature can be successfully combatted through the potent agencies of the mulch, and by the free use of the knife upon the runners. VARIETIES. From very many sorts in cultivation, I select Swan- ley White, Marie Louise and California, as the three best GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 85 types of the double white, double blue and single blue re- spectively. To the latter must be accorded the credit of having proven to be one of the greatest horticultural acquisitions of recent years. Unremitting attention must be given to the suppression of suckers, to insure the best results from this truly charming variety. CARNATIONS. Start always with the young plants. Standard sorts that have been reared from cuttings, and that have been kept well pinched back and bushy are the best. Raising carnations from seed is an interesting amusement, but ex' pensive and unprofitable if flowers of fine form and qual- ity are desired. From the best seeds procurable a large percentage will develop only single, semi-double or other- wise imperfect flowers. Carnations rejoice in full sunlight and in a well en- riched, clay like loam. Good natural drainage and ample water are indispensable requirements in this climate. A heavy soil, even adobe, is not to be dreaded provided it be but thinly overlaid upon the porous white or yellow clays so common upon adobe covered slopes and hills. Beware of any soil so retentive that the water stands upon the surface for any considerable time after watering—the plant will invariably resent it by promptly dying out. Shallow rooting plants like the violet; they are greatly benefited by liberal mulching through the hot sea— son. In winter, when fully decomposed, this top dress- ing may be forked into the soil. The flowering season of carnations may be prolonged 86 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. for months by freely cutting the flowers as they appear. If uncut, they exhaust themselves by sheer exuberance of flowering and seeding, and exact a long season of rest in ' which to recuperate. The carnation is a most tractable subject, and when flowers are desired at a given season, all that is needful is to keep the plant growing vigorously and regularly pinching off every flowering tip as it ap- pears until within three months of the time when the main crop of flowers are desired. If this is sought at mid— winter the cultivater of course takes some risk of damage by frost. While quite hardy in our climate, a continu- ous fall in temperature to 28° F. for two or more nights is sufficient to irretrievably injure all expanding buds and bloom-s. After two years of hard flowering in the open ground, a carnation deteriorates to a point where the new plant becomes more profitable. Propagation is readily effected with cuttings taken in the mid—spring season before hot weather prevails. These dibbled into sandy soil, in a shaded place and kept well watered, will make good plants for flowering the next spring. A simple method of layering is here explained whereby the amateur can replenish his stock with strong plants at small expense of time or trouble. As soon as the plant has perfected the mass of its midsummer flowering, in- stead of cutting back allow the flower stems to grow un— staked till of their own weight they topple over to the ground. Now, with a knife remove the leaves for a space of two or three inches along the stem and score or remove the skin or covering from the under side of the branch. Then open up a shallow trench, bend the shoot GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 87 ‘ _\\‘ 3’ “\\\ ‘\<‘ v«‘/’ ~:_-7§“ v, / a w," /.«' '124/77/ Mm” / , '« ll ' ‘ '. .... a"’- ._I:; LAYERING CARNATION. 88 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. down into it and peg fast with a hair or clothes pin. Cover with soil close up to the main plant, leaving as much of the top or end of the shoot exposed as possible. Be care— ful to see that the soil cover is not heaved up above the general level or it never can be kept moist enough to enable the layer to set up in business on its own account. With due attention to watering and mulching, inde- pendent growth will soon ensue; and from that time on, in the matter of shaping and pinching in of flower shoots, the layer is in all particulars to be treated as a young plant. In early winter, with a sharp spade, the plant is cut free of the parent, carefully lifted with a small ball of soil and transplanted without check to new quarters. The carnation, more than the rose, is essentially a florist’s flower and should be scrupulously concealed in the background, and never form a feature in the landscape of the grounds or home garden. For a brief time, when covered with masses of uncut blooms, the plants are bril- liant and showy in the extreme; but, as has beenprevi— ously pointed out, to permit of this, is to put a veto upon a continuous supply of flowers. When not so crowned with flowers, the carnation plant is one of the most ill appear- ing weeds with which a garden can be desecrated. Spraw— ling and awkward in habit, dull of color, unlovely and ungraceful in a superlative degree, it is lacking in every essential that goes to make up an ornamental plant; yet with the single exception of the rose, no other is more extensively used in Southern California for “front yard" decoration. MW. KEYNES WHITE DAHLIA. Courtesy Howard c? Smith. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 89 DISEASES. The carnation disease (for we are only afflicted with one in California) can be described without referring to its own very formidable name. Small dark spots or dis— colorations will appear at the base of the leaves. These are sometimes a rust color and with age, and the ripen- ing of the spores, turn occasionally quite black. The leaves turn pale or sickly, growth is feeble and the plant soon collapses. In advanced stages of the disease strong allo- pathic remedies should be used, the most effective being to root out the entire plant and burn it. In mild stages, or in incipiency, Spray with the Bordeaux mixture,* re— on appearance of disease in one plant the propriety of membering its valuable preventative properties, and up- spraying ever plant in the garden. VARIETIES. The name and fame of carnations grows more transi- tory year by year. There is absolutely nothing to be gleaned from the lists or publications of Eastern growers that give earnest of their value for out of door culture in this country. Some of these varieties offered are altogether lovely and wonderfully diverse in color, but the best of them do not compare in productiveness, strength of stem, compact- ness of form or size with many sorts originated by Cali- fornia specialists. So rapid are the improvemental strides being made, that the Californian, conscious that each year he can hope for something better, rarely takes the trouble to name them. *For formula see appendix. 90 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Soil of the richest, unlimited water and careful dis- budding are the three essentials for good Chrysanthemums. The soil can hardly be over fertilized. Any nitrogenous manure, preferably that from dairy yards is to be lavishly used and incorporated in the soil in spring; and as soon as thereafter as the plants take on vigorous growth, it may be piled about them superficially for a depth of three or four inches with impunity. This lati- tude to apply only to plants showing a rich, dark green color. Avoid top dressing any plant showing the smallest trace of yellow or discolored foliage as this is an infallible index that the plant has now more food than it can assim- ilate; and the addition of manure or water to such a plant simply accelerates its decay and death. Conversely, the recovery of an enfeebled 0r sickly plan-t can be effected most times by withholding both water and manure. Planting is carried on with best success in California throughout the months of May and June. The plants should be raised from cuttings taken from the soft tips of old plants in the months of March and April and will make far better subjects than plants ob- tained from division of the old root. T'hese cuttings, placed in sandy soil, in a shady place, and not allowed to flag for want of water, will root in about three weeks, and may then be potted or left in the cutting bed until required for use. While still quite small, the young plants should be cut back to within a few eyes or leaves of the ground. If the planting has been done GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 91 early in May, two cuttings back will be required, but for plan-ts set in June one will generally suffice. “Cutting back” once or any number of times is not to be entertained except upon the assumption that. high culture has been given, and that the plants give evidence of rank and succulent growth, and is positively inter- dicted Whenever the stem has become indurated or woody. If cut in close, under these circumstances, the plant will continue to push out laterals; but they will be weak; and weak stems will only produce weak flowers. “Cutting back” accomplishes two ends. It retards the flowering season, and increases the nu_mber of flower- ing branches. Many varieties that will normally flower in late September can by this process be retarded two or more weeks and much damage from a late, hot "wave” thereby averted. The next point gained, multiplication of branches, gives the grower a free hand for fine horticultural work. Early in the season the decision must be made—the elec— tion had between a goodly number of fine flowers, or a very few superlatively fine ones from each plant. In the former case a specific number of young shoots or leaders is determined. It may be ten or fifteen or more provided the variety be one inclined to branch freely. It should be stated here that no amount of cutting back will induce some varieties of Chrysanthemums to branch freely, and it is these varieties that are commend— 6G to the amateur for producing a few exhibition blooms. The number of shoots to be flowered. being determined, all others are at once pinched or cut out, those removed be- ing of course the weakest. The strength is now thrown 92 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. into the remaining stems and they will develop rapidly. As they grow, they in turn will develop branches, and these secondary branches should be promptly removed as fast as they appear. The operation is better performed by the amateur with a long, narrow pointed scissors rather than with knife or fingers; for while the vigilant removal of these side branches is the essence of future success, it is likewise important that the foliage, the leaves upon the main branches, be preserved intact. Chrysanthemum wood is very brittle, and as soon as the stems are two and one- half feet high they should be loosely tied to or around one strong six—foot stake. If, however, the grower aims to have a specimen plant, making the finest display of his product, it will be necessary to use a lighter stake for each and every'leader. These are to be inserted converging from the base of the plant and a branch tied down secure— 1 y to each. It will not be a pretty sight for the time being, but before the plant is in flower every stake should be practically concealed from view. When the flower buds appear comes a critical time. The first to show will be an axial or terminal bud, and as it pushes upward will deve10p flowering branchlets, each containing a central bud subtended with three or more smaller ones. These will occur directly beneath the ter— minal. Still beneath these, as growth progresses, will appear another tier or whorl of flower buds, and again, further down the stem, from the axils of the leaves the same process is continued upon a reduced scale. When the buds are as large as small green peas, or, as much smaller as will admit of handling without injury to those adjoining, the superfluous ones are to be removed. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 93 The aim, so far, has been to produce a fair number of fine flowers—not one exhibition bloom—hence the ter— minal, the most promising bud of all, is mercilessly pinch— ed ofl. From the whorls of buds beneath, all the flowers are now taken except the central bud of each tiny branch- let. The number of these vary according to varieties, but when the process is complete there should not remain to exceed six buds upon each stem. A week or two later it will be necessary to go over them again and reduce the number one-half, and at the same time remove a multi- tude of young buds that will be developing from the axils of the leaves where laterals were removed during the summer. , In making the second disbudding it should be done so as to leave only the strongest, and those most removed from each other. Not less than seven inches of space should intervene between any two buds. The puncture of an insect or worm, or a little carelessness in handling will oftimes cause the loss of one or more buds, hence the advisability of the second disbudding and of not attempt— ing to select the three final flower buds at the first opera— tion. Flowered in this form, the plant should be literally covered with bloom and far more attractive as a garden plant than when grown to single flowers on single stems. For cut flowers, if fine ones are desired, there is no option but to clip all the buds from each stem excepting only the terminal one. If the bush has been grown to a goodly number of stems-a dozen or more; a very fine garden effect can still be produced, and of course better blooms than when two or three flowers are allowed to de- velop upon each stem. 94 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. The single show or exhibition flower is obtained by the vigorous exclusion of every stem and every bud from the plant save one. It implies very careful staking, in- finite watchfulness and caution. If the smallest accident happens, the plant goes flowerless for that year. The accompanying cut illustrates the first step in disbudding where the aim is to procure a fine garden dis— play—not single exhibition blooms. The dark heavy lines indicate the buds to be removed at the first opera— tion. Of the remaining nine buds, about six should be pinched out the second time of going over the plant.* From the time the first bud appears, until the first flower expands, liquid manure can be generally applied twice a week; thereafter its application is waste of energy and manure. When through flowering the chrysanthemum is a forlorn and weedy looking subject and should be lifted or torn bodily from the ground, heavily cut back and “heeled in” a shallow trench. After the crOp of cuttings have been secured for next year’s supply, the old plant should be altogether discarded. If the size of the gar- den will permit, rotation should be given to the plants, as the finest varieties deteriorate if planted continuously upon the same «plat. There is no plant grown out of doors in California that comes to greater perfection than the chrysanthemum. *Some growers never remove the terminal bud; but when it is desired to produce three or more good flowers to a stern, better results will follow its removal. It results in a check to the central axis which forces side buds into longer stems, and thereby makes room for expansion of the remaining flowers without overcrowding. 95 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. DISBUDDING CHRYSANTHEMUM. 96 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. None so spectacular in its gorgeousness, or so respon— sive to generous treatment. T o secure this implies un— remitting care, and the enthusiastic amateur will reap a fuller measure of reward from a dozen well grown plants, than from a whole hedgerow allowed to grow and flower as their fancy dictates. There is no great gulf fixed between the very best and what one might call almost the poorest Chrysanthe- mum. By that I mean that the standard of excellence varies so much, and the fashions in flowers fluctuates so from year to year, that a variety discarded. ten years ago as a " worthless single or semi—double flower, might today, if sufficiently “ragged,” be considered a prize. The little button or pompone Chrysanthemum has practically dis— appeared from gardens and huge size combined with twisted, distorted or lacerated petals, at this moment is the goal for which the grower strives. The great size can be attained by close disbudding and hard driving as well with a score of old varieties, about as effectually as with any of the monsters of each year’s introduction by the makers of novelties. Since a perfect globular form, great solidity and compactness is no longer a criterion, each amateur should become his own producer and make extensive sowing of seed. The plants are most easily reared from seed to flower the same season, and if saved from a garden in which all varieties of Chinese, Japanese and American origin are grown, the planter is assured of a great va— riety of striking and bizarre shapes, forms and colors. Many of them will of course be very inferior, so great a GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 97 number indeed that d‘isbudding and liberal culture is rarely bestowed upon seedlings until after they have once flowered when of course the poor ones are consigned to the limbo of things forgotten. This is a safe rule of con- duct only for the expert. The beginner might discard a sort which under high pressure would be capable of great things. An illustration is at hand in that old- and unsur- passed variety, Frank Thompson. As seen in most Cali— fornia gardens during October it ranks no whit better than most of the chance seedlings in any experimental plat. Given the treatment outlined on previous pages, and it assuredly takes rank as one of the grandest exhibi- tion plants and flowers known. In conclusion, let me advocate a temporary thin mus— lin screen or roof over the Chrysanthemum bed, as soon as the first flowers begin to expand. Not alone is it good. protection against the sometimes heavy and unseasonable rains that occur early in Novem— ber or in late October, but the flowers when thus pro- tected from the direct sun are not only more refined in color, but after being well expanded are far more lasting upon the plant. An inch rain storm in October followed by an un— commonly hot day will sometimes undo the patient labor 02' months. The simple pitch roof of muslin will serve almost the purpose of a glass house, and the grower need not see his best attempts and efforts frustrated perhaps in twenty— four hours, a: SHADE HOUSE PLANTS gel Ferns and Begonias—Varieties— HESE two plants are considered jointly by reason of their amenability to like iultural conditions. Furthermore they can truly be called floral corollaries of each other, few ~ plants harmonizing so effectively and prettily in every detail as they. Both enjoy the fat of the land, but are not too capricious in this respect, tak- ing kindly to a diet of broken rock if they rannot obtain rich loam or leaf mould. Both revel in the partial ob— scurity of filtered or broken sunlight, yet many will make a brave show under the fierce sun of a southern ex- posure. Both love unlimited water, but exact perfect drainage. Water galore they should have, but it is more than essential that there be facilities for the escape of every drop that the plants do not assimilate. Unless the soil be naturally porous, or unless it lies with a sufficient SIOpe to permit of artificial drainage, it is futile to make or try to make a successful fern—begonia bed. Scoop-ing out a hole and filling it with broken rock or rubbish, as frequently is done, will serve no purpose, unless the hole be carried through the hard pan or im~ pervious stratum, or unless the fall of the land will ad— mit of laying a drain pipe, box or tile. If a simple excavation to porus soil be made, it should be filled at the bottom with coarse rock or brick and atop of this a layer of gravel or finer materials to GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 99 prevent the washing down of the superincumbent soil to the rocks at the bottom. If this occurs, the drainage is no whit improved by the addition of the rocks or stones. Given perfect drainage and almost any soil will suf- fice. When feasible, better and quicker returns can be had by planting in a top dressng of leaf mould, or of decomposed granite foothill soil. I‘mpoverished, sandy soil is made available by the addition of black swamp muck, or, in default of that well rotted cow manure. Adobes or stiff clay that have been treated according to instructions of a previous chapter will give fair re- sults, and upon evidence of exhaustion or deterioration, both are benefited by the occasional application of a little bone meal. A combination bed of ferns and begonias is made most effective by scattering among the former a few plants of the so-called herbaceous or fibrous rooted be- gonias, and reserving the border or margin of the bed for the exclusive use of tuberous rooted sorts. North of Point Concepcion most begonias, with the exception of two or three forms of the semperflorem type succumbs to the winter climate, but their effect can be stimulated by the use in lieu of them of the hardy pink and White Anemone Japonica with almost as charming results. The following list of ferns will be found useful in California. Those too tender for out of doors growing in the north are marked with an asterisk. As the old bo— tanical species of begonias are nearly superseded by the introduction of gardeners mongrels, reference to them is made to the catalogues. 100 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. *Alsophila Australis gTree Gymnogramme triangularis *Dicksonia Antarctca sorts Peugea andromedaefolia *Pteris tremula “ ornithopus Nephrolepis exaltata , Pteris acquilina *Pteris cretica Woodwardia radicans * “ “ albo. marginata Kspidium patens *Onychium Japonicum “ rigidum *Sitalobium Cicutarium , Adiantum capillus-veneris *Cyrtomium falcatum g" Asplenuim bulbiferum EAdiantum formosum Native ferns are best transplanted from the moun— tains in early spring. Exotic, tender species should not be handled until the soil has become warm. Ferns and begonias rejoice in a cool atmosphere, and partially buried rocks or boulders among the plants are active agents in securing this condition. Whenever wet— ted they dry more rapidly than the soil, radiation is ac- celerated and the surrounding atmosphere made cooler than it would otherwise be. I mentioned some species that will do fairly well under a full sun exposure. They are two of our strong growing, native brakes; Pteris Aquilma and W oodwardia Radiccms and the exotic sword fern Nephrolepis Exaltata. Nevertheless when conveni- ence permits of their getting infiltrated sunlight only they will in every case prove more satisfactory. CYCLAMEN S. These charming plants are listed as bulbs in most catalogues. This is not only a botanical impropriety, but as the treatment which brings them to perfection is about identical with that required for ferns and begonias, they are discussed at this time, and not in the space allotted to GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 101 bulbs. They are easily raised from seed sown in light sandy soil, if subsequently kept moist and shaded. From sowings made in April the young cormes may be made to flower within one year. It is unwise to plant them in the same beds with ferns and begonias, as they will most times go dormant or nearly so, about midsummer, the period when the others rejoice in unlim— ited water. The amateur need not fear the loss of the plants even under the bane of continuous water—they will endure it in this climate and give satisfactory results; but show or exhibition subjects are only to be had where the cormes have had a summer rest of two or three months. This rest is not given till the second season, when the young cormes should be the size of a walnut. It is the only bulbous rooted plant I am familiar with, that I have seen continuously in more or less flower throughout the year. When compelled by supension of water into inactivity, its flowering epoch covers a period of seven months of unequalled profusion. Commonly grown as a pot plant by florists for house decoration, the general public hardly seem aware of its utility and value for the garden. A shady corner and plenty of light, rich soil fulfills its modest requirements, and gives return not only in exquisitely marbled and decorative foliage, but in flowers of surpassing beauty and durability. Its prettily reflexed petals are pure white, stained at the throat in all shades of red from pale rose to deepest crimson. Others are “selfs” or solid colors in pink, rose, wine red and crimson. The bulbs are long- lived and reputed to increase in floriferousness With en- 102 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. larged size, but at the expense of the size of the indi— vidual flowers. Such is not the universal experience in California, and I know of individual plants now in their fourth year; a compact mass of foliage quite two feet across, and displaying at one time a generous mass of unexceptionable flowers. Cyclamens will endure several degrees of frost without destruction of the corm; but light frosts are sufficient to mar the winter crop of bloom. THE SHADE HOUSE. Lovers of fine plants will find this indispensable for the rearing of many kinds that cannot be satisfactorily grown entirely in the open air. Popularly, it may be described as an arbor covered in with thin cloth, or preferably slatted over top, ends and slides with laths laid at intervals of their own width from each other. It can take almost any shape or size desired; be made rough and plain or highly ornate; and if exposed to high winds, should be covered on the windward side with vines. These should be planted in early spring and con- sist exclusively of rapid growing annual or deciduous va- rieties. The value of the lath house grows out of the climatic modifications it affords. In hot weather, its atmosphere is from two to four degrees cooler than the exterior air; in winter from two to four degrees warmer. Insignificant as this protection seems, it is just suffi— cient to make feasible the growing of many plants tha‘r stand upon the border—the debatable land between the extra tropical and the tr0pical. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 103 As an illustration, some of the so-called half hardy begonias are selected. Many of these if exposed for two or three consecutive nights to a minimum temperature of 28 degrees F. will succumb root and branch past hope of resurrection. From brief exposure of the same plants to a temperature of 32 degrees or even of 30 degrees F ., they will come out unscathed. The tons of many tropical ferns will collapse in a lath house If subjected to a cold less severe than the freezing point of water. They would, however, rehabilitate them-selves upon the approach of varm weather, while out of doors, and exposed to a slightly lower temperature they would perish—could not be resuscitated‘. The space in a lath house is valuable; is mostly occu- pied or crowded with plants requiring abundant summer sprinkling, with a consequent increment in atmospheric humidity over that prevailing in a like space out of doors. Hence the lath house provides, as we have seen, greater humidity, the prime factors in the cultivation of many charming exotics—factors in which our otherwise de- lightful climate is deficient. T'he intermittent sunlight admitted through a lath house, prevents the burning or scorching that would oc- cur to many plants in the open air; for the interception of the sun’s rays forbids of them beating continuously on the same spot for more than a few minutes at a time. During the summer, the growing season, it is hardly possible to furnish too much shade; but with autumn, or the approach of chilly nights, vines that are still persistent of foliage should be torn down, and sunlight more freely admitted. 104 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. At the same season a watering should be restricted tc. bare necessities. The combined influences of a little sunshine and diminished water supply will tend to ripen and perfect the growths of the preceding summer, and get the subject, if a delicate one, into the best condition to resist the vicissitudes of a cold, wet or protracted Winter. The utility of the shade house to the amateur is great. .T'herein can be reared from seed, plants whose propaga- tion in the open ground from seed would 'be a failure. The pot grown: plant for subsequent house decoration is here at home, and does not suffer as it does by transi— tion to the house from the blazing sunlight of “all out of doors.” The house can be made beautiful overhead and on the sides by hanging baskets and hanging ferneries of all de- scriptions; and if tall enough, by the introduction of a stately palm or tree fern. On the beds, or in the borders, ferns and begonias will fairly rejoice. The lovely Persian cyclamens, the dainty Chinese primroses and gorgeous Cinnerarias can here, planted out, be depended on to give far better results than in the aver~ age greenhouse. - . If of small size the very darkest corners may be giv- en up to miniature palms—Chamoedoreas and Geonomas. In the sunniest portions the very many beautiful Japanese and native Californian lilies will accomplish great things. If the shade house be large there is hardly a limit to its possibilities. Three different Kentias, the finest of all house palms—and of problematical value for general out of door planting—can be relied upon to thrive. Rhodo- PTERIS TREMULA. Courtesy Houard (3‘ Smith. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. . 105 dendrons, Azaleas and Kalmias equally well; and such semi—arborescent begonias as rubra and zebrina be used to fill up chance interstices. , In most cases the amateur will consecrate the shade house to the cultivation of ferns and begonias. If these be grown in pots, the character of the soil in thelath house is immaterial; but if the fullest benefits are to be had they will be planted out. Due attention has heretofore been given to the importance of perfect drainage for these plants, and was accounted a more mate‘ rial feature than the soil itself. Good soil in the lath house will give good and quick results if the drainage be assured. An annual top dressing of very old and completely decomposed manure will serve the purpose; but good leaf mould is less likely to generate grubs, nematodes and earthworms, and on this account always to be preferred. lé‘ggi THE BULB GARDEN $3M Some Annuals—Pansies—The Tropical Jungle —Aquatics—— N DER this heading will be treated brief— as bulbs, all bulbous and tuberous rooted plants in common cultivation in our gardens. There are a few, that the soil and c1i~ matic conditions of Southern Califor- nia suit so perfectly that they have become almost nat- uralized. The Freesia and the Calla thrown upon waste places will take hold and in their due season flower. Both will grow from the smallest fragment left in the ground and are almost ineradicable. T'he Calla is used so extensively for hedges that it calls for specific notice. Its normal flowering season is from December to May, but by stimulating, its season can be prolonged. Carried to the highest pitch it is possible for the bulb to be grown as an evergreen, and forced or driven into continuous leaf throughout the year. The summer growth and bloom thus obtained is bad, and the hedge so driven is far inferior to one that has been prop- erly handled. After the spring flowering has passed and yellowing leaves are beginning to appear, all water should be with- held. The t0ps are then cut back to the ground and the tubers dug, and placed away in a cool, dry place till about October first. The row or line where they are wanted should be worked over heavily with manure and trenched GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 107 to a ditch or slight concavity. This assures to the plant all the water allotted to them as well as all they can steal from any other source. The hard, dry bulbs are now dropped in the row a foot apart and covered up three or more inches. It is quite immaterial if they fall on their head or their feet in planting——they will all grow and flower; but by selecting bulbs of uniform size and planting them crowns up, equi— distant and at an equal depth, it will result in a more symmetrical, uniform and attractive hedge. Water is now turned in the trench, a thorough soak- ing given, a light mulch of dry soil raked over all, and, except in very sandy soils no more water applied until the young sprouts begin to push through. This indicates that the bulbs have made root, and from that time until the following May water can be given all the time and frequently. Callas are rank feeders and if premium flow- ers of the largest size are desired, this programme should be carried out every third year, and early each spring of intervening years they should be well top dressed with manure besides. Left undisturbed and unfed in the row, they deteriorate rapidly in quantity and quality. Most bulbs repay liberal culture, but there are a few like the Calla, which will flower despite of hard usage and therefore fitted for the garden of neglect. These are Glad— iolus, Freesias, Oxalis, Zephyranthes, Ornithogalum (Star of Bethlehem), Tigridias (conch flowers), Mont- bretias and Kniphopia (red hot poker). Most bulbs rejoice in rich, deep soils, but a bed desig— nated for their use should, if heavily enriched, be grown to some annual crops for at least one year before using, in 108 GARDENING IN -CALIFORNIA. order to take up any excess of worm breeding, nitrogen- ous substances. This applies forcefully to evergreen bulbs, which are slow to establish themselves after re- moval, and valuable bulbs are frequently destroyed by grubs and worms from whose attacks they seem to be im- mune when in a state of vigorous root growth. For this reason it is not only beneficial but imperative if fine flow~ ers are desired, to treat evergreen bulbs to a yearly sup- ply of old manure, care being taken to apply it only when unequivocal signs of new growth are in evidence. As a further precaution against the attacks of under- ground pests, and as a preventive against decay, it is ad- visable when transplanting an evergreen bulb to bed the base of it in a handful of clean sand. Without this pre- caution, the transplanting of many tropical bulbs in the winter season is attended with more or less risk. As many Hippeastrums are worth a dollar or two apiece, and really choice hybrids command five to twenty-five dollars each; it is worth the amateur’s while to insure them against mishap by the simple application of the sand cushion. Bulbs that are readily raised from seed to a flower- ing point during the same season such as Dahlias, Glad- iolus and Freesias, or such as attain maturity quickly from offsets, like Tuberoses, Montbretias, Narcissi, Ox— alis or Callas and most deciduous bulbs, can remain in the ground or be pulled out at pleasure without detriment to their subsequent flowering. Evergreen bulbs, or those slow in reaching the flowering stage should be dealt with more cautiously and be disturbed as seldom as possible. Some of the finer Pancratiums and Hippeastrums that have reached maturity and have once flowered, resent re- GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 109 moval to the point of refusing further bloom for one or more seasons after disturbance. As a general guide, it can be said that bulbs inclined to produce freely of young offsets or bulblets will stand division and removal without detriment. T‘hose whose increase is shy and slow are better off undisturbed. Ex- posure has been a long disputed point among cultivators, and the location of all the bulbs in cultivation to the same exposure, be it sun or shad-e, will surely result in many disappointments. The coldness of soil incident to a site never touched by the sun will discourage many bulbs, particularly trop— ical sorts, from flowering. On the other hand, not only do all lilies, and many bulbs of northern latitudes flourish better in cool, shady locations; but it must be conceded that the flowers of all bulbous plants are more persistent and enduring when protected from the sun’s rays. Hence the ideal for the universal bulb garden, when space does not admit of isolated planting; is either the shade house or a location so protected by trees that a happy combination of both partial shade and sunshine can be secured. I The gardens of California are well supplied with a few standard, conventional bulbs. But the family is practically without representation in many of the most beautiful flowering species known to cultivation; species that will thrive as well here out of doors as the old and common calla. In the list of desirable and little known plants that is included in this volume, will be found. the names of a 110 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. many sorts which will more than repay the cultivator for the trifling care exacted. ANNUALS. Comparatively few annuals are grown in California. Pansies (cultivated as annuals), sweet peas and mignon— ette, practically make up the sum. Occasionally occur godetia, larkspur, marigolds, asters, coreopsis, sweet William, Phlox, salpiglossis, pop- pies, balsams, linnia, cosmos and nasturtiums ; but they and a few other annuals are the exception—not the rule.' Nearly all annuals, spontaneously and without care, reproduce themselves. Some so freely, to—wit, alyssum, marigolds and California poppies, as to become as much a nuisance to the cultivator as any other weed. It is obviously superfluous to give cultural instruc- tions about subjects that exact no more than to once scatter the seed with a free hand, and then leave them to do the rest for all time. As some people have a partiality towards annuals of all kinds, and as every flower lover rejoices :in the first three named sorts, a suggestion is here made of more value than any cultural cod-e than can be laid down. If continuous flowers are desired from annuals, con- tinuous cuttings must be made of the flowers as fast as they open. If this is conscientiously attended to, it is as- tonishing to what an extent the flowering season may be prolonged. Sweet peas, that normally perfect their crop in :1 month, will continue to bear for three or more. Mignon— ette can be forced to bloom for a year or longer, and pan— GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. ili sies become practically perennials. The flowers of pansies not being highly prized as cut flowers, but valued mostly for their display of bloom in the garden, will not be treated in this manner; and they evince their exhaustion from seed hearing by the steady deterioration of their flowers after this process has set in. Therefore, though strictly perennials, they are better treated as annuals; and the others, truly annual can be coaxed into being quasi— perennial. Sweet peas and mignonette despite their popularity are quite as bohemian in their habits as the grosser an- nuals, and ask not much more than to be dumped on the ground in the winter season. Pansy seed will repay more careful handling. In the early spring months, it will germinate quite as freely as the commoner herd of an- nuals, but that brings the plants into bloom in the hot- test of July and August weather; when the finest strains of seed will produce only the smallest and most degener— ate flowers. Exhibition flowers. can only be obtained from January to May. To this end the seed in sown upon a finely prepared bed or in boxes in August or September. Screen lightly over the beds a very thin covering of pure sand, water with a fine spray and keep well shaded. The seed will require constant waterings and the sand will prevent sur- face baking, and tends to hold in check the deadly fun— gus of “damping off.” Seed should not be sown too thickly at this season, as if damp sets in and the seedlings are crowded, they will mostly perish. The cause of damping off is thoroughly understood. 112 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. It is due to sudden and violent fluctuations of tempera- ture—such as may be expected in September when hot days are often succeeded by chilly nights. When the operation is upon a small scale, and the seed grown in pans or boxes; it is a good precaution to remove the boxes at night into the warmer atmosphere of a living room and carry them out again in the morning. This process to be observed from the time the seedlings first begin to peep through the soil. In two to three weeks they will have grown past the danger point. In open beds the remedy indicated is care in watering, which should only be given in the morning, and by dilute spray- ing of Bordeaux mixture. The seedlings when of good size to handle may be pricked into other boxes or transplanted bodily to the open ground. , , ; They should still be kept well shaded and about November the shading may be entirely removed. Pan- sies delight in a rich, deep soil, inclining to the stifi, and to which abundant cow manure has been added. Like the violet, to which they are closely related, they can only be made to flourish in the hot interior valleys by keeping the soil cool by the further addition of a heavy mulching about each plant, together with the copious use of water. Upon the sea coast, these precautions may be dispensed with. THE TROPICAL JUNGLE. -— Of late years there has been developed an interest in tropical plants, that takes expression in massing them in a group; which, for lack of a better name is called the “Jungle.” GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 113 Few fashions or fads in gardening are more praise- worthy or contribute in so high a degree to the ornamen- tation of grounds great or small. When convenience per— mits in connection with such a group, of the introduction of a small basin for aquatics, the effect and beauty of the whole is greatly intensified and becomes a feature of the garden that should be accorded the highest consideration. A sheltered corner and ready access to water are the prime requisites. \ The shelter should be in the way of protection from the afternoon trade winds, and operate as an aid to plant— ing the localities visited by occasional sharp frosts. ’Tis true that very susceptibly tender plants are used, but the system of close planting not only affords them mutual shelter, but the same system permits of the winter killing of some to the ground, without affecting the integrity of the group as such. The winter dam-aged plants will quickly rally in the spring, and afford the necessary color to make the whole as resplendent as a butterfly. The angle of a building, of a high fence or hedge is the preferable place for the location of the jungle. The tallest growing species forming the background and by easy graduations coming down to the dwarfest sorts for the immediate foreground. Planted out in a circle upon the lawn, the planting becomes necessarily formal as all vines of the group must appear to advantage, and this very formality is death to the natural grace and abandon which is the essence of the group. An effective arrangement is to be had by using in the extreme background the plain or variegated canes; arundo donax or the hardiest of the giant grasses (arun- 114 GARDENING IN CALIFokNiA. dinaria vulgaris). Directly in front of these, the hardy Abyssinia banana (Musa enseth). This may be flanked on either side with the black and golden bamboo (Bam- busa nigra and B. aurea). In front of these bamboo there is choice of the Paper plant (Fatsia japonica) and two species of Bocconia, B. frutescens and B. cordata; all broad leafed subjects. If room permits, a pampas grass (Gynerium argenteum) can be placed in front of the ba- nana, whose imposing crown will tower far above the pampas unobstructedly. The next line towards the front can be made up from Zebra grass (Eulalia Zebrina), Nile grass, (Cyperus papyrus) and umbrella grass (Cyperus alternifolius.) For the immediate forgeround, callas, plain and spotted; ele- phant’s ears, Calocasia; Iris of sorts; Pancratiums, spider lilies, Farfuguims and dwarf cannas can be used ad. lib. The first named, the large growing plants require ample space if the purpose be to develop them. as specimens. In the jungle they may be set very closely, as the aim is only to exhibit the tops, and by a proper grading down of sorts, the ultimately naked stems in the background are completely screened by the outer row of plants. Notwithstanding close planting, there is still ample room to introduce may flowering bulbs, and rhizomes between those which are truly foliage or decorative plants- In the background a tree dahlia (Dahlia imperialis) and such tall growing cannas as C. Ehmani are useful, and in the foreground Montbretias, gladiolus, single dahlias and even lily bulbs can be introduced, and if judgment in se- lection is used, the whole group can be kept a blaze of brilliant color from May till September. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 115 Frequent cultivation of the jungle is not to be enter- tained; yet, once a year ruthless work with a sharp spade will be in order, for the purpose of restraining and holding in bounds some sorts, which, if allowed to run un- checked for a few years would overrun the entire area to the final extinction of many of the less obtrusive species. Most of the plants enumerated are rank feeders, and once a year it will be necessary to top-dress the bed heav- ily with old manure. This, in conjunction with abun- dant summer watering, is all that is required to keep such a plantation at the maxi-mum of beauty for many years. If in the foreground of all, there is room for the introduc- tion of a small basin for aquatics, the charm of the jun- gle becomes intensified. If the soil be light, friable and porous, there is no alternative but to line the basin with cement or asphultum. Where it happens to be of adobe, stiff clay, or reddish gravel, this expense does not occur, as a single puddlmg, i. e., ramming of the sides and bot— tom while wet will generally suffice to keep the pond from leaking. When water tight, the bottom is to be covered with a few inches (four or five) of any common, but well enriched garden soil, the aquatics planted and then cov- ered with water for a depth of anywhere from six inches to two feet. Most of the nelumbiums and water lilies (nymphaeas) can be planted directly in the bottom of the pond, but the safest plan with all is to plant each species in a shal— low box and then submerge the box. Some sorts multiply so rapidly that it is necessary to partition them off. Un— less this precaution is observed with the beautiful water hyacinth it will quickly monopolize the pond to the anni- hilation of every other plant therein. I GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 116 The above cut shows an oval basin seven and one—half by ten feet, by two feet in depth. Such a reservoir can be excavated and laid in rubble and cement ata cost not in excess of twenty d01— lars. @ PLANS &4 How to Plan the Garden—Use of Vines in Landscape—Lawn Making. one of two possible ends in View. One, to have it beautiful—the other to have at all times an abundance of flowers. It is a demonstrable proposition that both ends cannot be attained by any combination which fails to accord to each purpose a widely different treat— ment. By proper arrangement a small place can, if de- sired, be kept resplendent in bloom and color throughout the year, and yet practically furnish no flowers. This seeming paradox is explained by saying that while we use in the garden thousands of flower producing plants, less than one dozen are in demand for their flow- ers alone. The following six, including one comprehensive class, cover certainly three quarters, probably ninety per cent. of all the flowers used or consumed in California. They are roses, carnations, violets, Chrysanthemums, sweet peas and flowers produced» from bulbs on tubers. They are the flowers which people want and will have, and the amateur’s success in having them will depend upon fol— lowing professional lines, and treating them as field crops and not as ornamental subjects. It has been shown in a previous chapter that the rose under proper management for many months appears at a strong disadvantage. The carnation as a plant at all 118 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. times is deficient in beauty. The violet bed per se is not so attractive to the eye as a well kept strip of turf. Chrys- anthemums out of flower are the apotheosis of weedy ugliness. Sweet peas when turning color are an eyesore. The perennial bulbs which at all times are an adornment to the garden—the Crinums Hippeastrums, Pancratiums and Agapanthus are not wanted exclusively for their flow— ers. Those that are; the gladiolus, dahlias, narcissus, hy- acinths, tuberoses and callas, fall into place with those that we have described above as lacking ornamental value when not in flower. The logical conclusion of this would be to discourage the home builder from having what is wanted and to force something upon him that he did not want. This impeachment will hold until we have shown that within the limits of a town lot all these things, or the benefits of them are to be had without the surrender of the beautiful. As a starting point, the conventional town lot fifty by one hundred and fifty will be taken as our type. It is as susceptible of artistic treatment as the most elaborate and extensive country seat. Defective planting or arrangement upon a large es— tate is sometimes overlooked. The profound beauty of some noble tree, or a vast expanse of irreproachablc lawn arrests and occupies the eye to the exclusion of minor faults and details. Within the circumscribed limits of the average town or city lot, these petty details become salient features, and a small error by virtue of its glaring conspicuousness mars the effect of perhaps an otherwise good arrange— ment. To illustrate, I note too often the presence of a GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 119 pair of huge, spreading palms monopolizing the entire front of the residence and destroying the value of what- ever merit the original scheme of planting may have pos- sessed. Be it understood that in resenting such gross and unpardonable mistakes, it is without prejudice to the very kings of the vegetable world; but the fitness of their introduction under many conditions, can no more be - questioned than the use of a brass band in a room ten by fourteen. The average, unobstrusive cottage of five or six rooms upon a lot fifty by one hundred and fifty feet is selected as the basis for the illustration of a well planned garden. The scheme offered is elastic enough to cover grounds thrice this size occupied by the most pretentious mansion, for their is a principle involved that applies with equal force to both, that will become apparent as we progress. The typical cottage or villa will be located in the exact longitudinal center of the lot. Its frontage will be twenty four to twenty eight feet, and will be set back from the sidewalk about the same distance. It will be ap- proached from the street by a four-foot, cement walk which at the steps will deflect to one side and pass around to the rear entrance, leaving a narrow flower bed space between the path and that side of the house. This con- ventional arrangement embodies convenience in the high- est degree, and a cardinal tenet of landscape work is never to sacrifice convenience for effect. It is not within the scope of this little volume to ex- ploit the field of landscape art, but it is not amiss to say here that for the purpose of demonstrating how easily 120 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. pretty results can be had where space and convenience admits of the use of curved lines; we have selected for illustration the baldest and most unpromising problem of any that can be devised: Working out the plan as shown in figure I will ac- complish when perfected; First, the maximum of good effect, both from within the premises and from the street. Second, an unstinted supply of flowers. Third, sufficient space for a small fruit or vegetable patch if required. From the entire front “flowers” as we have described them are rigorously excluded. The plants indicated at A, A, B, C, are strictly 'trees and dwarf shrubs, carried from a point a little back of the front elevation of the dwelling and extending thence along the property lines for one—half or two-thirds of the space out to the side walk. One of these groups, preferably B, is made up of broad leafed evergreens, the other C, of feather leafed, grass like, or other tropical appearing subjects. The grass plat in front, G,— can at pleasure be carried through the shrubbery and down one size of the house, but convenience and the best results dictate that the lawn line terminates where the shrubbery line begins. To many people the word “shrubbery” conveys acute horticultural nightmare. To them it means no more than gloomy pines, bare legged, or bare armed Grevillias or dreadful arbor— vitaes sheared into grotesque and impossible shapes. To the contrary, with certain adventitious aids which will be alluded to further on, the “shrubbery” can be made Ikaleidoscopic in color throughout the year. STRELITZIA REGINAE. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 121 Further, if laid with regard to future development, so that the extreme background be of arborescent species and these by proper gradation taper down to a foreground of truly dwarf species, the result at all seasons will be an umbragous setting to the dwelling, which, like a hand— some frame unto a picture accentuates its good points—- ameliorates in a measure its defects. Scrutiny of the planting scheme as shown in Fig. 4 reveals frequent spacing of only four or five feet alloted to plants exacting twice that area for their fullest devel- opment. But the end in view is not to grow specimens, but to attain another object, to-wit: the creation of a complete bank of foliage. Planted according to the scale given will accomplish this purpose, and permit the plants to develop also their characteristic leaves and flowers. The accompanying table names each plant by the number shown. All names included under the same num- ber or letter, are plants equally well adapted to the pur- pose as the initial one. This wide latitude enables the planter to exercise his likes or dislikes in the matter of selection or rejection, and still maintain the integrity of the design. The lettered spaces between the shrubs, group B, may be well used for the injection of herbaceous peren- nials, which can be planted even more freely than shown in the plan. It is to these we look to at all times to fur- nish the color necessary to hold the somber in check. The flowers of- few of these are useful for cutting; the foliage of some is distinctly weedy, and of others deciduous, but they will here flourish and flower famously and the kind- ly shrubbery will quite conceal these defects; bring out and emphasize their good point—color. 122 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 123 Further analysis of the figure show that groups A, A, are made of up plants conspicuous for gay or con- tinuous blooming qualities. In addition, they must be subjects that will not in height much exceed the distance from the ground to the floor of the porch or veranda; or, if of rampant habit, only such as will submit kindly to heavy and frequent pruning. The further subdivisions of the plan are less arbi— trary and must vary with the conditions of sunlight or shade as these are affected by the location of the building or of adjacent structures. Reverting once more to the landscape of the front, it must be remembered that the dwelling upon a small lot is at all times the conspicuous feature. If architecturally good, the two groups as made up can be curtailed suffi- ciently to allow the loss of not a single good point of the building. If bad, expanded to an extent suffic1ent to almost exclude it from view. The effect of this planting is the crea- tion or production of an oval frame of foliage, in the deep— est recess of which the house is set. Not only does this gracefully and helpfully relieve the unavoidable straight lines and rectangles of sidewalks and entrance paths, but as a whole has a restful aspect that the scattered and hap— hazard injection of plants here or there can never produce. In fact, if a Whole city block or square was planted to such a pattern, the one lot a facsimile of the next, the monot— ony of such an extreme and unlikely case would be less trying to the eye, than a shifting panorama Where every horticultural incongruity or impropriety is the one thing to surely arrest the attention. 124 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. USE OF VINES IN LANDSCAPE. The plan that has been outlined above will make grounds attractive and the house pretty, if there be the faintest trace of beauty in the structure. The introduc- tion of creeping plants upon the dwelling to make the picture pretty is meretricious and need not be resorted to except as a cloak to cover the defects of bad planning. This, without disparagement to the value of twining or climbing plants. Their number is legion, the beauty of many surpassing, and their rarity in the California gar- den surprising. This rarity arises from two things—lack of space and ignorance of their utility. If, of all the climbing, Vining, trailing, twining, creep- ing or scandent plants adapted to our out of door culture, a class be made under the generic name vines, they would require a half mile or more of fence or trellis to support them. A like number or a like space given up to the cream of all trees, shrubs, bedding plants, bulbs and flor— ists’ flowers combined would fall far short of producing so brilliant and varied a display of color as the Vines. Nevertheless their use upon the dwelling is to be depreca- ted. T'he very finest sorts become in time defoliated from the ground upward, and their barren, twisted stems are not more beautiful than so many dangling ropes. Those not having this defect (some of the Ipomaeas) and honey— suckles run to the other extreme and create a mat of foli- age so dense to be detrimental to health by exclusion of all sunlight. Furthemore they give excellent harbor to all manner of uncanny and unpleasant crawling and winged things. If evergreen vines must be planted; if the senti— GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 125 ment that clusters about a vine embowered cottage must prevail, then let those of light and airy foliage only be selected. The “Pride of California,” (Lathyrus splen— dens), climbing fern, (Lygoduim scandens) ; smilax, var- ious asparagus and climbing amaryllis (Bomareas) may be used. Deciduous vines, provided the selection is re— stricted to those whose barren stems with age are slight and inconspicuous, or those which will stand close win— ter pruning, or those that can be cut close to the ground; as well as all annuals that can be completely eradicated when in their decadence, fall within the range of plants that may with most propriety be planted about the dwell— ing. Clematis in infinite variety, Boston Ivy, the Queen’s wreath (Antigonon leptopus), and a wide range of such annuals as Mina lobata, Ipomoeas, nasturtiums, scarlet runner, and sweet peas can be used without stint. Against these the indictments made above do not hold. They are neither dense nor perpetual enough to harbor ver— min; are not destructive of the buildings and offer no bar- rier to the good offices of the blessed winter sun. Climbing roses upon the house, for reasons previously given, are interdicted; and unless the side and rear fences of the lot are devoted to roses, every remianing available inch of space should be set apart to vines. No class of plants grown in California exact so little skill or care in their management; none under utter neglect will give such assured good results. Such importance attaches to this feature of the gar- den, that it was with some regret that the plan or scheme presented was restricted to the average city or suburban 126 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. lot, and thereby curtail our space for these invaluable adjuncts, to the East and North fence, and to a number not exceeding a dozen or fifteen. Still a type had to be selected and a limit fixed, and if the taste or curiosity of the amateur runs in that direction, the Scheme, so far as the “back yard” is concerned, is elastic enough to admit of the substitution for the flower beds, of upward for five hundred feet of trellis, upon which fifty or more of the most charming and desirable creepers known to horti~ cultural art may be grown. LEGEND FIG. I. Group B. I. >"Weigandia caracasana, Laurus camphora (ca-m- phor tree, Magnolia fatida (large fl. magnolia), Prunus illicifolius (evergreen cherry), Acacia pycnantha (golden wattel), Acacia nerifolia (overblooming wattle.) 2. Myoporum serratum, Pittosporum eugenioides, Myrtus communis (common myrtle) spartium junceum (Spanish broom), Photinia serrulata, Myrica Californica (wax berry.) 3. Solanum marginatum, Pittosporum undulatum, Lagunaria Pattersonii, >“Lantana hybrida, Lavatera arbo— rea variegata. 4. Viburnum tinus (Laurestinus), Abutilon (yel— low), Fabiana imbricata, Duranta Ellisi, Heteromeles ar- butifolia (tollon berry), Hakea eucalyptioides, Evony— mus aurea (golden evonymus.) 5. *Hibiscus sinensis, Melaleuca alba, pittosporum tobira variegata, Tecoma stans var. velutina, Hakea pec- tinata, Michelia fuscata (banana shrub.) GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 127 6. Diosma ericoides (breath of heaven), Aucuba ja- ponica, swainsonia rosea. 7. Cistus ladanifera (rock rose), Raphiolepis ovata, Abelia rupestris. 8. *Coprosma Baueri, Kennedya alba, Ilex aquifo— lium (Eng. holly), Eleagnus Jap. variegata. 9. *Mackaya bella, >"Francisca eximia , Daphne japonica. 10. *Lotus jacobeus, Veronica spiciosa, Veronica buxifolia. .I I. ’Chorozema varium, *Halleria lucida. 12. Mimulus glutinosus, Plectanthus fruiticosus. (a) *Dahlia -irnperialis (tree dahlia) ; (b) holly hocks; (c) tuberoses, pentstemons, campanulas (canter- bury bells); (d) kniphophia (red hot poker), tigridias, conch flowers; (f) dwarf dahlias, iris (perennial sorts) ; (g) Funkia (day lily, Delphinuim cardinale; (h) gladi- olus, Liliums (Harris and Humboldt); (i) A'maryllis, Hippeastrum; (j) show dahlias, cactus dahlias. GROUP A. For a South, East or Western exposure: I3. >“Streptosolon Jamesoni. 4. *Heliotrope. 5. *Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), euphorbia splendens. 24. *Bougainvillea glabra. 25. *Tecoma stans var. velutina. 26. *Pelargoniums (show varieties), *H‘ibiscus sin— ensis, *lantana hybrida. For a Northern exposure: I3. Azalea indica. 128 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. I4. Chorozema varium. I 5. Camellia japonica. 24. F uchsias. 25. Daphne indica. 26. Cistus ladanifera. GROUP C. 16. Arundo donax variegata. I 7. Papyrus antipuorum, humea elegans. 18. Arundinaria falcata (bamboo, many kinds), co— dyline australis (dracaena.) 19. Musa ensete (Abyssinia banana), *Phoenix rec— linata (dwarf date pal-m), *cocos plumosa, >"seaforthia ele- gans, *archantophanix Alexandrae—(palms Without ex- pansive crowns.) 20. Gynerium argenteum (pamas), Gynara scoly— mus (artichoke), Acanthus mollis, *Doryanthus excelsa (torch lily.) 21. Erianthus ravennae, Hedychium gardnerianum. 22. *Fatsia japonica (aralia), Bocconia frutescens. 23. *Alpinia nutans (shell flower), Yucca recurva, *Strelitzia regina. (k). Amaryllis sorts, Vallota purpurea; (l) Coloca— sia esculenta, Clivia miniatum; (m) Agapanthus um- bellatus, Crinums sorts, Pancratium sorts; (m) Rom- neya Coulleri (Matilija poppy), Cyperus alternifolius, canna hybrids; (0) *Chamaedorea gracilis (dwarf palm) or C. Desmonoidea. LAWN MAKING. The lawn is pre—eminently the feature of the Califor- nia garden. Sometimes in its construction, engineering GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 129 problems are involved. At all times improvement fol— low the introduction of a complete system of underground drainage. The small home-maker, however, seeks only a grass plot cheaply and quickly produced and lines are here laid down that will most quickly consummate this end. It is assumed that the operation of grading has been com— pleted, and that the piece to be treated, reduced to a level, to a slope or to a terrace. The whole piece is then to be broken up with a spade, incorporating at the same time a heavy dressing of common stable or barnyard manure. It is then to be raked over until fine and smooth. If the soil be lumpy or so refractory as to resist reduction to a fine degree of pulverization, it is better to cover the sur— face to a depth of two or three inches with fine, sandy loam. The theory of breaking up and watering the site of a lawn two or more times with a View of germinating and destroying weed seeds is indefensible in practice. It can be done for many years, and in due season, i. e., the win- ter and spring months, will bring an ever recurring crop of such native seeds as burr clover, pin grass, malva and door yard weed. Such weeds do not germinate nor grow well in hot weather, and the fact constitutes a forceful argument in favor of making lawns only during the sum- mer months. At that season the exotic grasses used in lawn making grow rapidly, and quickly subdue the few enfeebled native weeds that start. Frequently winter rains exert a disastrous effect upon newly made lawns. The hose or sprinkler can be controlled at will, but a *Plants susceptible to continued low temperatures and as a rule only serviceable South of Point Concepcion. 130 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. good, three-day storm will mostly lodge the seed in one corner of a not quite level plat. Upon slope or terrace not yet set with sod, the guttering and gulleying that fol— lows such a rain has a ruinous result. When the top soil has been made fine and smooth, the piece is ready for sowing. When blue grass is used, (the standard for fine lawns) ; the operation should be per- formed when no wind is blowing in order to effect a uni- form distribution. After one or two preliminary “casts,” the tyro will find no grave difficulties in the way of uni- form sowing. One—half pound to one hundred square feet is a generous allowance of seed, and still less is re— quired at the hands of an expert seeder. One or more pounds is not infrequently used, and is but a cloak to un- skillful sowing. It assures an immediate and dense car- pet of green, nine—tenths of which subsequently yellows and dies out and, for a long time, prevents the stooling out and proper development of the remaining plants. The planter retreats from his work as he progresses; lightly raking over the area sown, and as he recedes, care- fully raking out the imprint of his footsteps before mak- ing further sowing. If a roller can be had the raking in process is dispensed with; rolling the ground will be all that is sufficient. In fact, if a really fine sward is desired the roller is an indispensable implement. Its use is a guarantee that the plat will not be an aggregation of holes and hillocks—an impediment to the mower and a vexa- tion to the eye. Upon slopes or terraces the obstacles to overcome are greater, and it is hopeless to undertake the raising of grass unless the seed can be well rolled in. In addition, ter— GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 131 race work requires expert manipulation of the hose; the application of sufficient moisture to insure “a stand”—its discontinuance at the critical moment of washing out the seed. The amateur who would undertake the covering of a terrace, is advised to rear the grass upon a level site, and when it becomes a strong, dense turf, to cut it in strips, roll it up and bodily transfer to the terrace in the form of sod. If the ground now converted to lawn was thoroughly irrigated at the time of breaking up, nothing is required to insure success but proper attention to sprinkling. Neither mulch or top dressing with their concomitant train of evil weeds should be tolerated; but unremitting vigilance in the use of water is the price of victory. In hot weather a half dozen light showers a day will effect germination within a week, and' thereafter the quantity of water can be increased each time and the number of applications decreased till the end of the second week, when a good wetting morning and evening should suffice. These two weeks are the critical time, and the key to success is in not permitting the appearance of dry- ness upon the surface for a single moment. When the grass is still young and tender it can be rolled with beneficial results, and when straightened out once more is about ready for the mower. Biennial fertilizing with bone meal and dessicated blood should be given. Top dressing with animal man— ures, or highly ammoniated commercial fertilizers to be avoided; for, while they produce a high color and immedi- ate efiect, are not so lasting as medium to finely ground bone, 9X6 NEW OR LITTLE KNOWN PLANTS 31% Dwarf Evergreen Shrubs—Vines and Climb= ing Plants—Bulbs of Especial Merit— A few Evergreen Trees. 0* PRETEN SE is made, in compiling the subjoined list of desirable plants, that it will be found a cyclopaedia of all the good things to have in the California home garden. A score of volumes like this would be insufficient, even were each individual awarded but the baldest, synoptical description. Neither is the claim made that they are new to botanical science or even unfamiliar to the cultivated amateur; yet the point is tak- en that most of them are altogether too infrequent in cultivation and that the spaces they ought to occupy in our gardens too often usurped by fleeting florists’ flowers. Some of the more uncommon sorts are accorded some- what extended descriptions—descriptions that may prove tedious to those versed in plant lore, but necessary to those not so fortunate for an intelligent appreciation of the planting schemes mapped out in a previous chapter. To these, when known, a popular name is given; but it should not be forgotten that many plants never acquire a local English name, and but few until after very many years of general cultivation. The asperities which clus- ter about a harsh, scientific name are always dissipated when the glories of bud and flower begin to unfold—they are beautiful in any language—under any flag. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 133 “DWARF EVERGREEN SHRUBS.” Such as normally, under our conditions of soil and climate, range from three to six or seven feet in height; or, which if stronger growers, will, without sacrifice of foliage or flower, accommodate themselves to the rigors of close pruning, and therefore be well fitted for aligning walks or massing in the immediate foreground of plantations. ABELIA RUPESTRIS. Of graceful, fountain—like habit. Its branches fall in cascade—like sprays, which, when covered with small, pearly white blossoms, serve to intensify the fountain ef— fect. The flowers are slightly fragrant, and the bright, myrtle-like foliage appears to good advantage throughout the year. ACOCKANTHERA SPECTABILE. A Natal shrub with dark, leathery leaves and broad cymes of waxy, fragrant, pale lavender flowers. It is of somewhat slow growth, but of truly aristocratic appear- ance in both flower and foliage. It is slightly susceptible to frost.* BAUHINIA PUBPUREA. Quite hardy in most parts of Southern California and altogether one of the most valuable horticultural acquisi- tions of recent years. The leaves are kidney form. *Other than the above, mention will be made of some.of the very best exotic plants which are more or less affected by ex« posure to low temperatures in Southern California. In uncongenial localities the preservation of many doubtful species may be assured by throwing at night over each plant a piece of burlap or sacking. In most places this simple precaution will prove effective and need only be extended over the period between December 15th and January 20th. The labor of staking or tying down can be dispensed with. r 134 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. Flowers orchid-like, the size of and larger than a silver dollar. A delicate rosey purple in color, with the lower lip or petal delicately striate with lines of brown and yel- low. So free in habit, that when in bloom it appears as if a cloud of rosy papillios had airily fluttered down upon every twig and brachlet. Heavy soils (clay) cultivation, annual pruning and abundant water seem conducive to its best success, and it is therefore not recommended for lawn planting when oc- casional soil stirring is impracticable. It must confess to an awkward, straggling growth which may be re- strained by heavy, annual cutting back. The flowers occur only upon the old wood, and pruning must be given in early summer, after the flower season has gone by. Winter pruning will inevitably result in the loss of much of the next spring flower crop. The grower can feel assured that on any night when suf— ficient wind occurs to blow away the protecting covers that no damaging frosts will happen. A further insurance against loss is to be found in abstain- ing from late autumn irrigation. Extra tropical plants should be driven with all the water possible during the hot season, and with the approach of chilly nights it should be completely with- held. The effect of this is to permit of the complete ripening of the season’s growth and enable the subject to better with- stand the vicissitudes of low .temperature. The rains of the winter season are geenrally inocuous, as at that time the temperature of the soils is too low to admit of root action and the attendant product of young and easily affected growths. ‘ If rainfall is deficient at the season when killing frosts are anticipated, irrigation at this time will serve an equally good pur- pose. There is no danger of stimulating growth and the radia— tion of humidity by raising the atmospheric dew point, is a further prophylactic from frost. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 135 BOCCONIA FRUTESCENS. Is a plant of truly majestic beauty. Its character is found in the leaves, which are of the largest size, deeply lobed, gla-ucous, or pale sea green in color and frosted with a delicate silvery bloom altogether unique among foliage. None of the bananas or aralias with which our gardens abound can vie with it in simple, decorative beauty, yet no plant found in these lists is so little known or rarely seen in California gardens. It is fairly immune from light frost and adapts itself readily to nearly all kinds of soil. The flowers are insignificant. CHILOPSIS SALIGNA—“DESERT WILLOW.” The showy, trumpet shaped, rosey, violet colored flowers much resemble those of a Bignonia, a climber so popular and well beloved throughout California. The "desert willow comes from the Colorado region and con— forms well to ordinary garden abuse. CHOROZEMA VARIUM—“JOY FLOWER” OF AUSTRALIA. Pea-like blossoms, are scarlet and orange; very bril— liant, very profuse, and, best of all, flowers during our late midwinter season. Foliage dense, leathery and com- pact; succeeds best where slightly sheltered from direct sun rays. CHOYSIA TERNATA. A Mexican subject with small, glossy leaves and clusters of white, orange scented flowers. With an annual “shearing” the plant can be kept in compact and sym- metrical form. It bears abundantly at the youngest age and, while of small size, is as easily grown as a geranium. CISTUS LADENIFEROUS—“ROCK ROSE.” 136 ‘ GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. Flowers as large and as conspicuous as those of‘an Azalea. These are slightly open cup shape, milk white, each petal bearing a blood red» stain at the base. The flowers are fugacious, but incessantly continuous for a period of more than six months. It is found abundantly about the bay of San Francisco, but it is altogether a stranger to our Southern gardens. COPROSMA BAUERI. Grown exclusively for its golden yellow and green foliage. For this purpose it has reached an ideal point unapproached by any other plant in cultivation upon this coast. The leaves have a lustrous polish and bril- liancy excelling that of any evonymous, aucuba or varie- gated holly. Further merit lies in its adaptability to either a shaded or a sunny exposure. CORONILLO GLAUCA. « An old shrub, whose virtue lies in the peculiar bluish gray color of its leaf, and in the abundant, yellow, senna- like flowers. A free grower requiring frequent repression of its too exuberant progress. DAUBENTON IA PUNICEA. An acacia—like shrub, bearing in great profusion, brilliant masses of flannel red flowers. Its value for the lawn is impaired by defective and too scanty foliage; but in the close planted shrubbery, it becomes as valuable a color bearer as an hibiscus. DURANTA ELLISI. Very hardy and easily grown. Habit good and com- pact; becoming partially defoliated in very cold expo- MARIE LOUISE CHRYSANTHEMUM. Courtesy Howard (”5’ Smilh. wan” £15954? ‘ 12%”. k u. 2,; ,r, .k n, L 6; GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 137 sures. The flowers, a delicate percelaine blue, hang in graceful, drooping racemes. These, in winter, are suc— ceeded by abundant clusters of brilliant yellow berries, making the plant effective and useful at all seasons. It comes to greatest perfection in littoral regions. FRANCISEA EXIMIA. .Flowers large, salverform, pale violet color. The blooming season extends throughout the entire summer. HAKEA SALIGNA—“POMPONE” FLOWER. A large shrub with eucalyptus—like leaves, and whose tendency to “straggle” can be easily repressed by occa— sional use of the knife. The inflorescence is unique and beautiful. It appears in late spring in form of large balls or pompones made up of the countless, silken stam— ens. T‘hese, pure white at the outer periphery, darken or deepen towards the center, to a light Violet rose, giving to the whole blossom the colors of irridescent, changeable silk. The plant is entirely hardy and flowers at three to four years from seed. HALLERIA LUCIDA. Practically new to California gardens. Without the knife or especial care assumes a most graceful habit. Each plant naturally takes the form of a fountain of glossy, dark green foliage. The flowers are red and honey-suckle- like, a genus to which Halleria is closely related. HYPERICUM MOOSERIANUMe—“ST. JOHN’S WORT.” In California, this shrub is so tardily and incom- pletely deciduous as to be rated with propriety—an ever— green. The bush is compact and sturdy, and the flowers 138 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. golden in color, and satin—like in texture, far excell in size and brilliancy any of the order St. John’s worts. H. Mooserianum is tireless in flowering from May to September. LINUM TRIGYNUM. Another dwarfer, yellow flowered plant, brilliancy of color closely rivaling the Hypericum. It has the rare virtue of being at its best throughout the midwinter season. LOTUS JACOBEUS. In flower always. This statement to be modified by the necessity of closely shearing the plant two to three times each season, and the consequent temporary cessa- tion of inflorescence. The flowers, pea—like, are velvety and changeable from terra cotta to chocolate brown, and at times to a violet so dark as to appear black. This Ca- nary island shrub is in a way one of the most unique and interesting plants. It rejoices in the sun but not in the reflected heat of a southern exposure. MIMULUS GLUTINOSUS—“MONKEY FLOWER,” “BOCA DE LEON.” Of the California foothills. There are two forms; one having salmon tinted, the other light brown trumpet-like flowers. A California native of the highest merit; blooms profusely from February to October, and adapts itself to sun or shade and almost any soil. Its habit, somewhat straggling and bad, can be modified by free use of the knife after the flowering season has passed. MACKAYA BELLA. Flowers produced in abundance. Pale, rosy laven‘ 'der in color, and lasting fairly well when cut. This and GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 139 the succeeding are two of the showiest small shrubs known. Both are sensitive to light frosts and only to be commended for use in well protected gardens. MEYENIA ERECTA. A continuous summer producer of Gloxinia-like flow- ers. The trumpet is dark cobalt blue with throat of pale lemon yellow. MITCHELLIA FUSCATA. “Chinese banana shrub, or banana magnolia.” This plant resents root disturbance and is somewhat difficult to establish. It should never be moved except on the ap« proach of hot weather, and kept well shaded until growth recommences. Thereafter it will endure all common plant adversities. T'he foliage in effect is that of a di- minutive magnolia. The flowers, small and insignificant, are a dingy buff or terra cotta. Here, all its disparage- ment ends. These same unpretentious blossoms, under a hot sun, give out the delightful perfume of bananas and violets in combination. A‘ single plant Will scent a large area with a wealth of true tropical fragrance that is un- excelled by jasmine or even a tuberose. PARKINSONIA ACULEATA—“PALO VERDE.” This desert shrub, or small tree, is useful in any plant— ing scheme where a subject is desired that shall only partially intercept the View of the further background. The leaves are sparse, small, indeed, almost rudimentary. The flowers are deep orange yellow and quite showy; but its real interest centers in the vivid green of its stem and rigid branches, which it appears to maintain for all time. 140 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. ROMNEYA COULTERI—“MATILLIJA POPPY.” When in flower, it is doubtful if anything in our gardens can quite approach the splendor of the Euphorbia pulcherrima (Poinsettia) and the Chinese Hibiscus. If there can be a rival to these, it certainly is found in our native California, white, shrubby poppy. A well grown specimen will form a dense mass ten or more feet in all diameters, and continuously develop a succession of in— comparable milk—white and golden—hearted flowers from May to October. Peculiar to rocky, sandy washes, it is nevertheless versatile enough to adopt itself to the rich soil and almost acquatic treatment that a lawn demands. Like many California perennials, dependent upon scanty rainfall, it is incited to make growth shortly after the first heavy rains. At that time trunch-eons or roots of the wild plant can be successfully dug and transplanted. At any other season, moving any but the nursery—grown plant will most times be attended with failure. RAPI-IIOLEPIS OVATA. Not dissimilar in general aspect to the old and well known laurestinus of gardens. The foliage of this plant is larger, glossy instead of rough, and the white flowers are purer, stronger and better every way. The plant in size is less than one—half the dimensions of the laures- tinus. SOLANUM CAPSICASTRUM. An apology would be in order for inserting here the old and favorably known Jerusalem cherry, were it not for its rarity in gardens, and for its utility in the fore— ground of the shrubbery. The brilliant orange—red ber- ries are most persistent, and give splendid color effects GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 141 during four of the most trying winter months. The shrub is natuarlly compact, and with an occasional “pinching back” can be made a model of symmetrical shape. STREPTOSOLON. JAMESONI. Sometimes called the yellow Heliotrope. For long continued flowering vies with the common heliotrope, while for brilliant color effect it far outranks the latter. Heat and water are needed to perfect its growth; then a little starvation to compel unstinted flowering for the remainder of the season. VINES AND CLIMBING PLANTS. ANTIGONON LEPTOPUs—“QUEEN’S WREATH”—“ROSA DE MONTANA.” A true creeper, finding its support by means of ten- drils. A deciduous vine, but losing its foliage so late in the winter as to practically serve the purposes of an evergreen. From its tuberous, perennial root it can be made in one season to densely cover a fence or wall area of two hundred and fifty square feet. It is a gross feeder, and from the time the first shoots push in spring requires manure and water, ad lib. The flowers are a brilliant pink—a bright begonia pink—and hang in myriad sprays over all parts of the vine from June to Septem- ber. The flowers are chartaceous (papery) in texture, and long—enduring when cut; this, in conjunction with the graceful habit of the flower sprays, make it invalu— able to the florist or amateur for decorative uses. It will grow and live anywhere, and stands great ex- tremes of heat and cold, but positively refuses to flower profusely except under full sun exposure. The J42 GARDEN ING IN CALIFORNIA. hottest possible site, in connection with copious water, will insure its successful flowering. ALAMANDIA HENDERSONI. When in flower, is without doubt or peradventure the most spectacular and gorgeous flowering vine in exts- tence. The flowers are immense campansulate or wheel- shaped, expanded trumpets of the richest golden yellow. It is very tender and has been found questionably safe only in one or two very favored localities in Southern California. Careful tying up of the stems and littering the ground during winter will doubtless save it on frost- free sites. Its great beauty entitles it to this experiment— al effort, and to the space here that would not, under the circumstances, be accorded a meaner subject. BEAUMONTIA GRANDIFLORA. A tender Indian plant, but far more robust than the last. The flowers are milk—white, very large and fra- grant. A recent acquisition of great promise. BIGNONIA CHERERE. A “trumpet” vine With all, and more, than the vir— tues of the old red trumpet, B. grandiflora and none of its defects—La, poor color, and deciduous foliage. The flow- ers of this are of larger size, more brilliant color, and the leaves are dark, lustrous and ample. It is a phe- nomenal grower, having made canes of seventy feet in length in less than three years. Its flowering period extends over a term of six or more months. BIGNONIA THUNBURGIANA SYNB. TWEEDIANA. Another climber progressing by means of tendrils. Will cling to wood, stone or brick as effectually as the GARDENING IN CALIFORNiA. 14:; famous Boston ivy (ampelopsis Vitchii), and is com- pletely evergreen. The expression, “completely ever- green,” requires some explanation——explanation that will save much disappointment to the amateur who looks in all seasons for a continuous screen of leafy verdure upon fence, trellis or verandah. The foliage of some tropical and extra tropical vines is more persistent than others, and the persistency of many depends much upon the season. In mild, open winters the leaves of Solcmum Wenlandi, the common potato Vine that bears immense clusters of lavender blue flowers, seldom fall. A few nights of continued frost will, however, make it go entirely deciduous. So, of most of the evergreen Bignonias and Tecomas. Continued low temperature will seldom defoliate them, but arrests the formation of new growth, and for three months, January—March, the foliage that persists is mostly sparse, dingy and more unsatisfactory than a strictly deciduous vine. Further, many vines that eventually produce a woody, tree—like stem, and exhibit marvelous precocity in climbing upward, soon become completely defoliated for a great distance up the stem. This is a trait of many of the Bignoniacea ( Bignonias and Tecomas) and one of the salient defects of the otherwise lovely Bignonia venusta that covers the roofs of our houses at Christmas with its striking, pend— ant clusters of fiery orange blooms. This defect can be greatly ameliorated by growing upon low fences or trel— lises. Enough of the top luxuriant growth and foliage will depend to cover up the stem for its greater length. Upon the two-story dwelling the rough, rope-like stem is exposed in all its nakedness throughout the year. The 144 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. one under consideration, B. Thunbergiana, is remarka- bly free from this defect. Its flowers, clear lemon yellow, are large and abundant in May and June. Under a hot, southern exposure it thrives best; and When in bloom becomes a formidable rival to the Allamanda. BOUGAINVILLA GLABRA. Is now becoming so generally known to our readers that attention is only called to it in order that the planter may not be disappointed who places it in juxtaposition with any red or scarlet flowering subject. It is an inces- san flowerer, and its abundant, rosy mauve bracts are tinted with just a suggestion of magenta—enough when in proximity to anything scarlet to be altogether damning to both. CHOROZEMA ILICFOLIUS. Like the Bougainvilla, this is not strictly a vine; only a, scandent shrub that must be tied and trained up— wards. It has pretty, glistening holly~like leaves, and from Christmas till May is a mass of fiery, scarlet and orange pea—like flowers. It thrives best in partial shade or where exposed to intercepted sunlight, and is quite im- mune from ordinary frosts. CLERODENDRON BALFOU RI. More susceptible to frost than the last; but, being a stronger grower, is sometimes cut to the ground and recuperates again to the point of flowering the following season. The flowers, freely produced, are blood red, in— verted in a milk white calyx. The effect is striking and the plant is in all particulars commendable. ' GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 145 GELSEMIUM SEMPERVIRENS. The flowers are yellow, clustered and deliciously frag— rant. The foliage good and remarkably persistent. The least known and very best of all the jasmines for Califor- nia. A native of the Carolinas, it is of course hardy in all parts of the state. JASMINUM GRACILIMUM. White, fragrant; lacks the heavy, overpowering sweetness of the old and well known Catalan jasmine, the f. revolutum of our gardens. It is furthermore of better foliage and more graceful habit than the latter. It is quite hardy and will grow almost anywhere. SCHUBERTIA GRANDIFLORA. A tropical plant of twining habit, that has proved hardy in many localities subject to frosts. The milk— white, tubular flowers are fragrant; of good enduring tex- ture; and in size and profusion excel the Stephanotis. Its foliage—its one distinctively bad feature—is rough and hairy, and when bruised gives out a foetid, almost un— pleasant odor. STIGMAPHYLLON CILIATUM. Another vine whose foliage is too scattered to give it value as a covering for unsightly objects. The flowers, however, are extremely beautiful; orchid-like (Oncidium) resembling auriferous butterflies that have airily fluttered and settled over its whole expanse. Requires protection against frost. LATHYRUS SPLENDENs—“PRIDE OF CALIFORNIA.” A perennial, evergreen pea, and by great odds the best native climbing plant known. It flowers at about 146 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. two years from the seed and attains a height of twenty— five feet, progressing by means of tendrils like any other pea. The flowers hang in pendant clusters nearly as large and effective as the blossoms of a Wistaria. They are brilliant carmine at first; in age changing to a very deep scarlet or wine—red. It makes its best growth and flowers throughout the late winter months, and seems indifferent to exposure. Unless planted in well—drained soil, it appears to be restive under excessive summer irri— gations. It is of course hardy in all parts of the state and should be universally planted. TECOMA MCKENNIE. _ A trumpet-flowered vine that does not climb unless trained to a support or trellis. Attention is called to this old and well known species, chiefly on account of the pos— sibility of covering one hundred or more feet of trellis from a single vine—~some of the soft—wood climbers. Ipo- meas, cobeas, etc., alone surpass it in rapidity of growth, and given rich soil and copious water it is doubtful if the limits assigned are not too restricted. The flower clus— ters are very large and fine and an exquisite shade of sil— very rose. Any soil will answer, but free flowers are only to be had by free exposure to a hot sun. A native of extreme South Africa and consequently quite hardy here. THUNBERGIA LAURIFLOLIA. Has elegant foliage, and large, trumpet, sky~b1ue flowers. An aristocratic, greenhouse subject that thrives in localities reasonably exempt from frost. TRACHELOSPERMUM JASMINOIDES. Altogether of slow development, is commendable for GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 147 the destiny and persistency, during all weather, of its glossy, black-green foliage. The flowers, though small, occur in the greatest profusion, are milk-white and deli- ciously jasmine-scented. It is hardy throughout the state. DECORATIVE PLANTS. Those whose chief merit is independent of the flower, and useful for massing in the “jungle,” or for growing as isolated specimens. Dracaenas, palms and ornamental grasses are included under the caption. ALPINIA NUTANs—“WEST INDIAN SHELL FLOWER.” In habit and character of leaf not unlike a canna— but less rigid and hence more graceful. The flowers, ex- ceptional amongst decorative plants, are likewise very beautiful. They are in graceful, nodding racemes, waxy in texture and externally white, delicately flushed with rose. The lower petal of each orchid-like flower is golden« brown, beautifully penciled with lines of cherry—red and the margin or lip fringed with lines of golden—yellow. It is hardy as a canna and requires like treatment, to-w1t: abundant water and manure. STRELI’I‘ZIA REGINAE—“COCKAToo FLOWER.” The flower of this is also exceptionally fine, and far more showy than the shell flower. It is boat-shaped, bright orange-red, and from the center arises a bright blue process, like the crest of a cockatoo. The foliage popularly speaking is like that of a banana, but dark-er, thicker, and less fragile. It flowers in the winter season, and is as hardy as the canna. It is of slow growth and if not too often divided in a few years makes a magnificent clump. 148 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. BAMBUSA VULGRIs—“GIANT BAMBOO.” One of the best and yet least known of grasses. It makes canes in this country of thirty to forty feet, which in time branch out and give the plant a truly arborescent appearance. BAMBUSA GRACILIS. As its name implies, is very fine leafed and dainty. The stems arch most gracefully, making it useful for dec- orative work, and it is dwarf in habit as well. The fore- going are two of the best varieties of bamboo, and as easily grown as the many common sorts with which our gardens abound. Bamboos are superficial growers and if they ex- hibit a tendency to run out of bounds, can be kept in check by sinking a 6-inch curb about the space alloted to them. They will endure many privations, but respond quickly to generous treatment. COCOS PLUMOSA. The most elegant of all the hardy, feather-leafed palms. Abundantly planted in Santa Barbara, sparing- ly in San Diego, but practically unknown elsewhere in the south. Like many of the best extra tropical palms, it is not of precocious growth. This, in common, with igno— rance of their beauty when mature, has operated against their general planting. DRACAENA BRASILIENSIS. Dwarf, broad leaf tropical dracoena that nevertheless endures exposure to considerable cold. It requires shade, discoloring under a hot sun. CHAMAEDOREA DESMONCOIDES. Another palm exacting dense shade and in time be- comes sarmentose (climbing). It, in common with C. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 149 gracilis are acquisitions to our gardens. The latter is a dwarf, quite as attractive and graceful as the pretty cocos Weddeliana and with the virtue of hardiness that the cocos does not possess. ARCHANTOPHOENIX ELEGANs.—“ILLEWARA PALM.” The observations made in reference to the rare plant— ing of cocos plumosa apply with almost equal force to this, the “Seaforthia” of the gardens. The smooth, pol- ished shaft, which the stem of this palm makes when ma- ture, is one of its most charming features. It is in all particulars a most majestic and imposing plant. LIVISTONA SINENSIS. The Latam’a of the drawing room, and KENTIA FOSTERIANA. two of the best known house plants in cultivation, are exceptionally adapted to out of doors use in well protected localities. In fact, it is demonstrable that both have es— caped exposure to cold to which the Seaforthia has suc- cumbed. T'he unbroken sun rays are far more disastrous to them in this climate; and they are onlv to be com— mended, for use in gardens where other trees or buildings furnish ample protection from the sun. They are too well known to all plant lovers to call for a dissertation on their beauty; the aim should be to secure their more extended planting. ’ LIVISTONA AUSTRALIS. The “Corypha” of gardeners, is another fan palm too rarely seen. The head is very dense and spreading and the stem, slender and elegant. It is somewhat 'hardier 150 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. than any of the preceding but of doubtful value north of Point Concepcion. It is unmarred by the hottest sun. PHOEN IX RECLINATA. “The ostrich plume date palm.” The palm planter and gardener as a rule knows no love for any palm. ex— cept the date. It is readily conceded that no palm has yet been tested in California that in grandeur, in regal magnificence——can for a moment vie with the canary date palm, Phoenix canariensis. Yet it must not be forgotten that when well grown, it requires a circle fifty feet in diameter, and ample additional space, free of other vege- tational encumbrance, to illustrate its best points. T'o lovers of the date, who have not the necessary acreage, we recommend the P. reclinata as a subject suited to small grounds. To the unlearned in palm lore, it is simply a miniature date. The foliage is' slightly more recurved, curly and glossy. The stem slender and attaining here a maximum of twelve to fifteen feet. It is the apotheosis of graceful beauty and will quite satisfy the cravings of those who must have a date palm on a small city or subur- ban lot. It is only hardy south of Point Concepcion. ERYTHEA ARM ATA. A native California fan palm that in the not distant future will be universally planted. Its distinctive, blue— ish gray color is something altogether uncommon in the order, and it is one of the few fan leaf palms whose lower leaves are persistent for many years. Specimens in cul- tivation in California for now nearly twenty years, that have been unmutilated, still practically retaining all of their foliage. The only drawback, its tardy development GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 151 may be measurably overcome by the frequent and liberal application of manure and water throughout the summer season. Young palm plants of all species may be greatly accelerated by this treatment; subject to the inhibitions heretofore prescribed against the use of either water or manure after the approach of chilly nights. BULBS OF ESPECIAL MERIT. CALOCHORTUS—“MARIPOSA” LILY. As brilliant and diversified in color; far more grace- ful in habit and better adapted to this climate than the Dutch tulip. There are a great number of good species, but the amateur will find a good range of colors in C. weedii and C. luteus yellow; C. splendens, lavender; C. venustus, lavender and cream, and C. Kennedyi, fiery cin- nabar red. The three first named multiply freely and im— prove in size and vigor under cultivation. Calochortus‘ bulbs are small, but in common with most native bulbs should be planted deeply. Small as they are, four inches or more is not too deep to cover them. Early planting, September and October, is also advisable as they begin to grow with the first rainfall. CLIVEA MINIATUM. Has salmon colored lily-like flowers, and black green foliage. A winter blooming, greenhouse bulb, quite hardy in most parts of Southern California. it is an ever~ green of slow reproduction, hence not susceptible to fre— quent sub—division, and a mass that is undisturbed for a few years, becomes, when in flower, a truly magnificent 152 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. sight. T'he flowering season is very prolonged, and the in- dividual flowers enduring. CRINUMS. The crinums are truly the queens of bulbous flower- ing plants. In larger size and more gorgeous coloring, they are excelled by some of the amaryllis and hippeas- trums; but the latter, despite of flaming scarlets and crimsons, are coarse and weedy in texture and apear- ance, and with rare exceptions, entirely devoid of fra— grance. All the crinums are more or less scented, and the sweetness of some is intoxicating. In appearance they are almost regal, the foliage of some species standing out in such bold, clear, symmetrical outline, as to en- title them to cultivation as specimens, or as isolated plants. Among the finest sorts are named the C. amabile, flower of immense size; the perianth tube, red and white, tinged with red; C. amem’camtm, pure white, lily—like; C. fim~ briatulum, white and carmine. The “milk and wine” lily; C. Kirkii, white, striped with crimson, has the frag- rance of apricots; C. Moorei, clear, soft pink flowers of large size and delightfully scented is a magnificent sort; C. pedunculatum, flowers milk white, fragrant and large The bulb and plant both grow to immense size. Besides these there are many desirable hybrids in cultivation, all of which should be brought into the California garden as the best family of bulbs extant. All are susceptible to frost, but a cold quite sufficient to de— stroy the tops, undeters an established bulb from flower- ing the same year. They are great feeders and exact an— nual top dressing of manure and abundant water, sub— ject to the restrictions heretofore provided for tropical plants. BEGONIA GRAClLIS. Caurtesy Howard (”9’ Smith. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 153 HESPEROCALLIS UNDULATUM—“DESER’I‘ LILY.” An arid country flower that has been grown with varying success in gardens. Heavy soils, a hot sun and restricted water supply seem the requirement best fitted to induce this rather coy denizen of the Colorado region to unfold its charming flowers. The blooms in all par- ticulars except size resemble the old and well—known Easter Lily. The perianth interior is pure snow white, externally a remarkable ashen gray. It is withal de— liciously fragrant and for desirability alone surpassed by LILIUM PARRYI, “THE PARRY LILY.” The flower is widely expanded, but not revolute, i. 6. turned back. The lemon yellow petals shine as if var- nished and are of most exquisite fragrance. So marked is this feature (an unusual one among California flowers) that a small group of them will upon a warm day scent the atmosphere a hundred yards away. It is amenable to the treatment of lilies in general, to—wit: a rich, porous soil, and a cool, and partly shaded exposure. LYCORIS AUREA. ’ A charming Chinese lily-like flower. tI is evergreen and of easy growth in the open sunny border. The flower, reddish yellow, is very brilliant and showy. ZEPHRANTHES ROSEA, “THE PINK ATAMAsco.” The white zephryanthes, the “fairy lily,” is common, almost a weed in our gardens where it is used for dwarf edgings. This beautiful pink form, quite as easily grown, is far more attractive, and so uncommon as to call for es- pecial notice here. The flowers are much larger pro- duced successionally for a longer time and are a clear, brilliant rose pink. It grows anywhere and grows with prodigious rapidity. EVERGREEN TREES. CALODENDRON CAPENSE, “THE BEAUTIFUL TREE OF THE CAPE.” The Cape of Good Hope has already contributed to our gardens the “silver tree”—one of its most unique and striking ornaments. It now furnishes in the Caloden— dron a subject that in beauty and general utility promises to far surpass the latter. The silver tree has time and again demonstrated its entire unfitness for and refusal to thrive upon any except gravelly, or exceedingly well- drained soils. The Calodendron flourishes everywhere it has been planted, and when quite young has successfully resisted a temperature of 27° F. It is of rapid growth, compact in habit and densely umbrageous. The foliage is very dark and rich, and affords a striking contrast to the immense panticles of waxy, flesh pink, terminal flow~ ers which crown the top of every branch. It makes a tree of large size. CASTANOSPERNOM AHSTRALE, “EVERGREEN CHESTNUT.”. Assumes the head contour of the “Texas Umbrella,’ but the great size and graceful droop of its pinnate leaves relieves it of the rigid formality that characterizes the umbrella. The tenacity of its foliage is remarkable among evergreen trees, taking rank in this particular with the orange. Like the latter tree it has periodical seasons of growth; and by active stimulation with water and manure at those seasons its otherwise slow development can be greatly accelerated. T'he foliage is pale green and glossy as that of the Magnolia foetida. The flowers de- pend in large shouldered racems after the fashion of a GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 155 Wistaria, the individual flowerets being much larger and salmon red in color. It is flowering only in Santa Bar- bara county, but has now been tried in many and varied localities and proven cosmopolitan in regard to soil, and its immunity from rather sharp frosts. In all an acqui- sition of the very first order of merit. MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA, “QUEENSLAND NUT.” An antipodean evergreen tree of large size. Where- even planted has evidenced its general adaptability to Southern California. Its slow rate of progression will be a drawback to its universal planting by those who seek a forest effect in two or three years. This drawback is more than compensated by the extreme beauty of its foliage, which in all particulars closelyuapproximates that of the English holly. The nut which it produces at seven to eight years, although very hard shelled, is of excellent flavor and a good substitute for the filbert. Economic value and ornamental character are rarely combined in the same subject in so marked a degree as in Macadamia. PRUNIS ILICFOLIA, VAR. INTEGRIFOLIA, “ISLAY.” An insular form of the native California Wild cherry. The foliage, about the size and shape of the orange, is very lustrous and elegant. The flowers, long, creamy white racemes, are succeeded by a not unpalatable fruit, carrying an undue proportion of stone to ever give it much economic value. As an ornamental, broad-leaved ever- green it will, however, compare most favorably with a lot of exotic laurels, With which our gardens abound and which usurp the place that ought to be dedicated to this . charming Californian. It makes a tree the size of the orange, and of course is at home in all parts of the state. 156 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. Stress is laid upon the necessity of securing the island variety which in all essentials far surpasses the small leaved, sparsely furnished scrub that abounds upon the mountain foothills. x SHADE TREES 3y; For Sidewalk or Avenue Planting. " REVIOUS to discussing the relative : ' : ~ merits of any particular tree or class of trees, a few simple cultural di- rections are presented which should v_ be closely observed regardless of i . ,7 whatever tree is nnally destined to honor or disgrace—as the case may be—the sidewalk or avenue of the city or country town. ' As the conditions which govern the planting of a roadside, country tree are less complex, and in case of error more easily rectified, my remarks are confined to the planting of city streets or to such as are curbed, paved or graveled, or where such improvements are imminent. In some cases the reservation or strip left for trees is as- surance of copious water for the tree, and if this pro- gramme is unfalteringly fulfilled the range of suitable subjects become boundless. Too often the turf becomes poor and is abandoned, and then the Magnolia which throve so lustily for the first few years becomes a parody, a burlesque upon the name—shade trees. Systematic cultivation and irrigation are not feasible after the first season, nor should they be tolerated by the municipality, nor be an element of consideration in the selection 0c the subject, and a full appreciation of this at the very be- ginning, would spare planters half the inconvenience and annoyances arising from upheaved sidewalks of bulging curbs, and avert from many an inoffensive and law abid— 158 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. ing tree the ungrammatical anathema of being “no good” for this purpose. The space left between curb and pavement rarely ex— ceeds three feet, and with increasing size and age most trees begin to buttress heavily, it follows logically that not even a pepper tree, frequently four feet in diameter, can grow in such a space without something in the way of cement, stone or asphalt giving way. In the proper pre- paration of the hole lies the fundamental element of suc- cess in the planting of most sidewalk trees. Be the sub— ject large or small, the hole should be both wide and deep. Three to four feet is none too deep for a small plant, and the practice now in common use of exploding a bit of dy- namite in the bottom, in order to shatter and loosen the soil still downward is a further assistance. Every blandishment should be used to encourage the roots down, not out, and a valuable auxiliary to this end is to fill the hole up to the point where the roots rest, with the finest prepared soil obtainable and then in filling up to the surface with the poorest of gravel, clay or sand. I know of common gum trees so planted eight years ago which as yet have created no disturbance, while others, two years younger and not much more than half the size of the former, have already begun to play mischief with the superincumbent cement. I am skeptical of the horticultural dogma that irriga— tion inclines the roots to the surface. That light sprink- lings upon good, rich soil overlying hard pan will have this effect, there is no reason to doubt; but where soil and hole have been properly prepared and when water is given it be a thorough saturation, in most cases the tendency of the underground axis will be steadily downward. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 159 SIZE OF TREES. When deciduous trees that have been grown in open nursery row are used'; the largest size obtainable are re- commended. In this climate and country, if we eXcept such free rooting sorts as poplars, willows and tamarix, it is unwise to plant any tree that has not been twice trans- planted in the nursery. T'he inexpert has an unerring guide in the selection of a transplanted tree. It should always be provided with a supply of small fibrous roots. These are almost lacking in the large tree that has never been transplanted. At the time of planting the head should be cut back more or less. The severity of the pruning being in proportion to the extent and condition of the roots at the time of planting. If evergreen sorts of rapid growth are used, the suggestions made in a pre- vious chapter should be inflexibly followed. In the park or open plantation, facilities of cultiva— tion are at command to overcome the inherent weakness of an overgrown, pot bound plant that we cannot avail ourselves of within the narrow allotment dedicated to the sidewalk tree. Better a six or eight inch gum, Grevillia or pepper tree that has been generously grown during its brief lifetime, than a six or eight footer Whose roots for two or more years have been “cribbed, cabined and con- fined” within the limits of a one gallon can or pot. If the roots are gnarled and curled up at the start, so they will remain through life, and” the only new ones they emit, superficial laterals, will be a disturbing element to stone walks for all time to come. Immediate effect is the only end gained by planting the large evergreen. The labor of planting, staking up 160 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. and tying are the same in either case, but for the sake of immediate results, the inexperienced is taking the risk of planting a tree whose root condition is to him an un- known quantity. In the case of slow growing species of the pine or palm family, there are good reasons for the selection of large plants, provided they are dug with a ball of soil pro— portionate to their size. Both conifers and palms are frequently used for street planting, but as language is not strong enough to condemn the impropriety of the use of either for this purpose, no further attention is accorded them here. STANDARDS OF EXCELLENCE. For urban uses in California, these are well defined and should be adhered to or carried out by municipal en— actment, and no sentiment, fad or fancy for a particular tree should be tolerated as a factor in matters that con- cern the general public so much more than the individ- ual lot owner. The points that make up an ideal side— walk tree are considered seriatim in the order of their im- portance. I. As shade trees—i. e._, as furnishing the maximum protection from the sun’s rays in summer and a minimum during the winter season. This, at once, and properly, interdicts the planting of ALL truly evergreen subjects. I fully realize the almost impregnable stone wall of pre— judice that this proposition must encounter. Yet if the statement is carefully analyzed I will be fully sustained in the propriety of rejecting from the California sidewalk every tree which deprives the many of the always ac— ceptable and wholesome sunbeams of a, California winter. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 161 One which continues to drip water on the passer—by long after the shower is passed, and which keeps paved streets wet and unpaved ones muddy for hours and even days after the storm has passed. As shade trees there are no strictly evergreen species that are so impervious to the sun’s rays as many decidu— ous species when in full leafage. A well known Texas umbrella tree is a barrier to the passage of a single sunbeam. Its shade is absolutely black in its density. Some coniferous (pine like) ever— greens cast an equally dense shade. Public convenience demands the removal of all the lower branches for a height of eight or ten feet of trees that align a sidewalk or public highway. As the exqui- site beauty of most conifers depends entirely upon the in- tegrity of their lower limbs, the impropriety of planting any tree subject to these requirements becomes apparent. A notable exception can be made in the way of a boulevard of imposing width—not less than one hundred and twenty feet. On such an avenue or driveway a cen— tral line of Monterey pines may be tolerated. The far more beautiful cedars and Arucarias are taboo as they exact irrigation—a feature not to be entertained upon any street, even though great width permits of the ap— plication of water with apparent impunity. DROUT H RESISTANCE. Ability to cope with the vicissitudes of a compara— . tively rainless climate is prima facie a factor of the utmost importance. Among evergreens the number that have been fully tested in "California and not found want- ing in this respect is more restricted than among de— 162 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. ciduous sorts, provided we group many satisfactory species of eucalyptus and Acacia as two kinds. Exclud— ing pines and palms, which have previously been con— signed to the limbo of unworthiness, we have, aside from the gums and acacias, nothing but the grevillia and pep— per tree left. The camphor, cleanest and best appareled of trees, and withal having many of the charms of a deciduous tree; the stately and aristocratic magnolia; the spreading and uimbrageous rubbers, and the Brazil rosewood (Jacaranda), though all largely planted upon sidewalks, invariably deteriorate into misfit proportions unless supplied with an ever recurrent supply of summer water. On the contrary, and among deciduous trees, we . have of sorts fully tested in this particular, such kinds as the cork bark elm, Texas umbrella, Spanish chestnut, Chinese hackberry, Indian tamarix and Japanese Zelkova. Once morethe advocacy of deciduous trees brings me in conflict with the ruling prejudice in behalf of the evergreen, and before disposing of this question forever, will here say that the only argument I have ever heard advanced in its behalf, was based upon its claim to su- perior beauty! In this case de gustibus has too wide a range of in— dividual opinion to entitle it to serious consideration; and did space permit. a volume might be written on the changeful charms of deciduous trees, that in expansive but truthful adjectives would outnumber the most graph— ic words that could be uttered in behalf of the most beautiful, but almost always too monotonous, evergreen. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 163 CLEANLINESS. Used in a catholic sense to include not only freedom from constant litter of bark, leaves and seed pods, but as well, reasonable immunity from insect pests, disease or the dropping of gums or resins becomes a feature of paramount importance. Here again many deciduous trees at once take a high rating. They chiefly drop their leaves for a period rarely exceeding ninety days, and except when scattered by high winds, the nuisance of cleaning them up, when once abated, is finished for the season. Among evergreens those only that approach the de— ciduous in this particular are the camphor, orange, olive and blackwood wattle (Acacia Inelanoxylon). The first two, by the requirements of the second par- agraph, are unfortunately disqualified for street uses. I say unfortunately because their tenacity of leaf is un- equalled among evergreens, and the camphor as well be- ing practically exempt from disease, parasitic insects and the exudation of gums would make it in all other par- ticulars an ideal tree among evergreens. T'he olive will certainly thrive and come to trees’ es— tate in rather arid situations, but its rate of progression under such conditions is too tedious for the Jack—and— bean—stalk requirements of most American tree planters. Being of easy transplantation, this bugbear may be over— come by the setting out of large, twice transplanted, nursery grown, well balled trees. Stock eight or even ten feet high may be shifted to the sidewalk with in— considerable pruning; and with only a year or two of generous care, will be prepared to combat the subsequent 164 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. neglect that-their destiny as sidewalk trees assures them. I am inclined to be excursive on the olive, in View of the fact that none of the very obvious objections to the planting of fruit or nut trees upon a city thoroughfare prevail with it. Though subject to the attack of scale in humid atmosphere, it has no other defect; and if the initial error is to be made of planting any evergreen upon the highway, in the olive it is minimized to an ex- tent approached by no other tree in current use for street planting. One other evergreen tree, in the matter of cleanli- ness, rates as a very close second to the olive. This, the Blackwood Wattle (Acacia melanoxylon) in all other re— quirements that go to make up an ideal street tree out- ranks the olive, and among evergreens easily takes first rank among those fuly tested in this State. The obvious defects of the pepper and grevillia In this particular are too well known to call for explanation here. STRENGTH AND DURABILITY Are factors of least importance to us. Elsewhere they would be accorded second place, as a sidewalk tree in older communities is wanted as a lasting improve— ment. In California the mushroom village of today is expected to be a city of thousands tomorrow, and the shade tree must make way for brick structures and awn- ings. We have moreover no criterion of longevity other than the reputed durability of trees in their own locum tenam, as our practical knowledge is restricted to a quarter of a century. GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 165 Most of the eucalyptus give promise of fulfilling their accredited reputation of being long lived. They are also as a rule elastic and very strong. .Bv a curious anomaly, among the scores of excellent species, we have come to adopt almost universally Euc. robusta—one of the weakest and poorest in this respect of any sort yet tested. The fortunate exemption of California from hurricanes, and even rarely of high gales, has saved this tree, as it has the equally brittle grevillia, from falling into merited neglect. When young they are both ex- ceptionally beautiful. They catch the eye and fancy of every 'planter, and this alone accounts for their surpris- ing popularity. Even this poor virtue they become di— vorced from within a few years, leaving nothing but their vices in evidence. DEVELOPMENT. Maturing with reasonable rapidity to trees estate, or accomplishing the desired end of soon giving shade, must always be a factor in the selection of the proper subject. In this particular alone many of the evergreens score points against the best deciduous trees. Some few of the latter, such as poplars and willows, will more than hold their own; but as a rule they are ineligible by rea- son of their lack of durability, mostly falling victims to decay through the ravages of borers. DEEP ROOTING. Predisposition to make a distinct tap root, or to re- new one destroyed in transplanting, is here accorded the lowest place. It has been previously pointed out that if proper provision is made for the descending axis 166 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. by preparing a thoroughly acceptable hole, the danger from superficial roots dwindles away. To be sure there are a few notable exceptions, like the rubber and fig trees, that cannot be coaxed into devel— oping anything but lateral roots. They are Obviously unfitted for the purpose. The tendency to make or to re- new a damaged tap root is strongly marked among the acacias, and with deciduous sorts such nut bearers as walnuts, Spanish chestnuts and pecans. If the shiftless and too comm-on practice of stuffing the large roots of a tree in a small,. ill—prepared hole is to prevail, then the importance of this section readily entitles it to fourth place in our schedule. The following table shows in condensed form the value of all trees mostly planted in Southern California for street purposes. The six features that are embraced in the make-up of a perfect tree are assigned points in proportion to the importance that each feature bears to the whole. The numerical arrangement in the first column indi- cates only numerical strength. Number one, the pepper, for instance, being more in use than any other one spe— cies, and the blue gum next. The list, twenty species, practically includes, with the exception of a very few Monterey pines and Monterey cypress, all the trees that have been introduced upon sidewalks in recent years. Palms, while eminently unfit, are more in evidence upon our streets than many more suitable kind‘s. The extensive planting of No. 8 during the past year JI' two has possibly increased in numbers to a degree .4} y. \";~ ”\MN Isms!“ ’5‘»; ‘Le‘. ‘ a: l. 2.1 » \ ‘3‘} "1 ‘~ : 53“'\ \i .3 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 167 . 5’ .. 22 a .8. a as 8:2 $2 an E.» an 5% m_g_g.n. s4“‘3.o No. NAMEOF TREE. 3% new 21‘ng ogegflw a a a a” 62 .52 8‘32 5,15 as 22 <2 3 E 6‘ g a E S >' $3 3 m g H q a (I) I Pepper Tree Schinus Molle .................. 9..15.. 0.. 3.. 4.. o..31 2 Blue Gum, Eucalyptus globulus ............ 7..15.. 5.. 5.. 5.. o..37 3 Grevillia robusta ................ 8..Io.. 0.. o.. 4.. o..22 4 Eucalyptus robusta .............. 7..IO.. 6.. 1.. 0.. 4..28 5 California Palm, Washingtonia filifera ............. 0.. 7.. 9.. 5.. 1.. o..22 6 Texas Umbrella, Melia Azadarach ............... 20..I2.. 9.. 4.. 3.. o..48 7 Sugar Gum, Eucalyptus corynocalyx ......... 12. .15.. 6.. 5.. 4.. o..42 8 Black Wood Acacia, Acacia Melonoxylon ............ 13..I4.. 9.. 5.. 4.. 5..5o ' 9 Camphor, Laurus Camphora .............. 13.. o..Io.. 5.. 2.. 3..33 IO Cordyline stricta and indivisa Dracoena ........................ 0.. 5.. 4.. 0.. 3..4..16 II Black Wattle, Acacia Decurrens ............ ... 7..12 8.. 3.. 4.. 5L.4o~ 12 Magnolia foetida ................ 12.. 0.. 8.. 3.. 1.. 3..27 13 Olive Olea Sativa .................... 10..I2.. 9.. 5.. 1.. o..37 14 Brazil Rosewood, Jacdranda mimosaefolia ......... 5.. 0.. 7.. 4.. 2.. o..18 15 Spanish Chestnut Castanae vesca var .............. 20..I5.. 9.. 5.. 3.. 4.56.“ 16 Scarlet flowered Gum, ‘ Eucalyptus ficifolia .............. 6..10.. 6.. 4.. 3.. o..29 ‘ 17 Golden Wattle, Acacia pycnantha .............. 14..12..._ 8.. 5.. 4.. 5..48. 18 Cork Bark Elm, Ulmus suberosa, ................ 18..12.. 9.. 5.. 3.. o..47 19 Chinese Hackberry, Cercis Sinensis ._................14..Io.. 8.. 3.. 3.. o..38 20 Moreton Bay Rubber Ficus macrophylla .............. 18..10.. 0.. 3.. 3.. o..34 168 GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. where it should be transposed with No. 7; but otherwise the exactitude of the first half of the list will, I think, be unchallenged. The remaining one—half do not in all make up as yet five per centum of the street trees planted, and the accuracy of their numerical sequence is both doubtful and inconsequential. Sixty points is the maximum taken to represent a perfect—an ideal tree. If only two-thirds—4o points—be taken as the minimum to guide us in the selection of a proper tree, it is seen that of the first five on the list, and which unquestionably make up seventy-five per cent. or more of all the street trees planted in Southern Califor- nia, not so much as one is fitted for this purpose! On the other hand, it does not follow that every tree that has earned forty or more points is alone eligible. Both numbers 17 and 19 at maturity are of too small a size to fit them for planting, except upon narrow streets. For this purpose they are unexceptionable,‘sub— ject only to the reservation indicated by their position in the list, which implies too limited an experience in plant— ing upon which to predicate their universal appropriate— ness to all parts of Southern California. Again, No. 15, the Spanish chestnut, the tree which more nearly attains the maximum of excellence than any tree known, is, by reason of its majestic size at maturity, properly barred from use upon avenues or streets less than eighty feet in width. Again, in the beautiful black wattle (No. II), while its many points of excellence entitle it to a high rating, it is found fatally defective in the primary element that constitutes a shade tree. A defect as marked as in the GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 169 grevillia and one which in common with the latter does not develop in all its nakedness until the tree is eight or ten years old. An efficacious remedy lies in the unspar- ing use of the pruning saw upon the first appearance of “leginess.” This valuable bit of knowledge, however, adds nothing to the value of a tree that exacts this tax of time and expense every few years in order to maintain it in good form. In all other particulars the list will be found a safe guide in the selection of sorts according to the numerical strength indicated in the column of totals. There is one other feature in the planting of street trees that calls for specific mention. This is the repre- hensible practice of planting a jumble of sorts upon the same block. Not only is the effect as a whole bad, but the individual béauty of each is lost in the kaleidoscopic shifting of form and color, that only serves to confuse and bewilder the passerby. Upon winding country roads or lawns there is pro- priety in the interposition of different sorts with every recurring change or turn, but in modern city streets, in- variably laid out upon rectillinear lines, the planting of considerable stretches in a uniform species harmonizes well with the general situation, though the net result may approach the formal or mechanical. I have slightingly glossed over the consideration of BEAUTY as a factor in the selection of street trees. All trees are beautiful, and it is a keen appreciation of the exquisite beauty of a camphor or a jacaranda that causes me to deplore their mistranslation from the lawn to the curbstone. To a point where lack of water in both cases, and the invariably neglected use of the prun— ing saw in the latter, culminates in the loss of whatever charm time and development might bring to the un— happy subject. APPENDIX. INSECTICIDES. KEROSENE EMULSION. Kerosene, one gallon. Water, one-half gallon. Soap, one quarter pound (common yellow laundry soap). Break or cut up the soap, add the water and boil till the soap is dissolved. IWhen boiling hot, add the ker— osene, and stir or churn briskly for ten or fifteen min- utes. When cool, the resulting emulsion should be thick and cream-like, and should adhere without oiliness to glass. This, when cold, to be diluted with nine parts of water for use against soft scale, willow scale or rose scale. For soft insects like aphis, plant lice, the dilu— tion may be carried to twenty parts of water. It is im- portant that the proportions given be accurately observed, as at that ratio they emulsify successfully. If there be any failure, it is probably due to hardness of the water, which may be rectified- by the addition of a little common bicarbonate of soda. For cut worms, beetles and all leaf feeders or masti- cating insects, use the arsenites. LONDON PURPLE OR PARIS GREEN. Use in proportion of one ounce to six or even eight gallons of water. In preparing it is best to first mix the poison with a li'tlc water, making a thick paste, then when ready to spray, dilute it to the desired amount. If used too strongly it sometimes scalds tender foliage. This may be overcome by the addition of milky lime water in GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA. 17] the proportion of about one pint to six gallons of the spraying mixture. When insecticides are applied in the dry season, care must be used to see that irrigation is car- ried on without the use of a sprinkler, or without wetting the foliage of the affected plants. In winter time a fresh application vs !” be in order after heavy rains or until the insect pests are abated. BORDEAUX MIXTURE For “red rust” on roses, mildews, blights, etc. Dissolve one pound powdered copper sulphate in one and one-half to two gallons of water. Then in another vessel thor- oughly slake three—quarters pound of fresh lime. When completely slaked add enough water to make a creamy whitewash. Then pour this slowly into the copper solu- tion, using a coarse cloth strainer to keep out the undis« solved lime. Now add water to make of all about ten gallons, stir thor0ughly, and the mixture is ready for the sprayer. With the exception of the emulsion, there can be less exactitude used in preparing these other mixtures. The general rule to observe being to avoid an excess of the poisonous arsenic, and have recourse to more frequent ap- plications. They are all easily prepared, all inexpensive, not costing in a small way much above a cent a gallon, and above all, the amateur who would successfully grow both roses and carnations, or either, should remember that the Bordeaux is not only the best known remedy for rose mildew and tor the deadly carnation disease, but is an almost assured specific prophylactic against either, and that an occasional spraying should form part of the routine in the cultivation of these plants. INDEX. Annuals ....................................... 106 Begonias ....................................... 98 Bulb Garden .................................... 106 Bulbs of Especial Merit .......................... 151 Carnations ...................................... 85 Diseases—Varieties .................. ,, ...... 89 Chrysanthemums . . . . . . . . . ...................... 90 Climbing Plants ............................. . . . . 141 Cyclamens ...................................... 100 Decorative Plants .............................. 147 Evergreen Shrubs ................................ 132 Evergreen Trees ................................ 154 Ferns .......................................... 98 Insecticides ................................. .. 170 Lawn Making ................................... 128 Planning the Garden ............................. 117 Planting—General Remarks ...................... 22 Pruning ........................................ 28 Roses~Location of Beds, Exposure ................ 38 Soil, Preparation, Fertilizers .................. 41 Subsequent Treatment ........................ 44 Pruning ................................... 49 Forcing ................................. 55 Propagation ............................... 58 Enemies and Diseases ........................ 64 Varieties, Standard of Excellence, etc .......... 71 Hints by Eben E. Rexford ..................... 78 Shade House ................................... 102 Shade Trees ...... A .............................. 157 Size of Plants ................................... 25 Soil, Preparation and Cultivation. .. . . . . . . .. . . . . .. .. 19 Tropical Jungle .............. . ................... 112 Violets ......................................... 83 Vines. ................................ 124 FERNS Six Fern Houses, 34 varieties, native and imported. See them at the nursery. ,/= Home Grown eat TRUE TO LABEL LOWEST PRICES Fruit and J/Jade Treat—Apple, Peach, P1um,etc., 8 varieties of Acacias, 10 Eucalyptus, Camphor, California Live Oak, Oriental Planes, etc. PalmJ. Etc" For out-door and in—doors, many varieties, large and small. 50,_ 000 to 100,000 Pansies each year Roses all the leading kinds; Geraniums Poinsettas, Bougainvillas, etc., etc: PACIFIC NURSERY CO. wholesale and Retail 1000-1008 East Thirty-Second Street HOME TEL. 7435 Saleyard— Up Town Each Winter to Union A. P. Harwood, Pres. WWWW WWWW WWWWWWWW WWWWWWWW WWWW WWWWWWWWWWWW " Manufacturers and dealers in FERTILIZERS. High-Grade Guano and Phosphate a Specialty. Guano Fertilizers particularly, have con- cession from Mexican Government for Guano. Make all kinds of Fertilizers par- ticularly Lawn Fertilizers . . . ' '08 Fertilizer Co. S. C. Haver, V. P. W. H. Doty, Secy & Mgr. WW WWWW WWWW WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW I! WWWWWWWWWW WWWWWWWW WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW5.1 MMMMH‘F‘NFM'.“ mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm OFFICE PHONES Room 324 Copp Bmldmg $130135 33%, 1 218 South Broadway LOS ANGELES 3 1‘0"“!!! NMWWMFR§R§M R‘R.‘NM!MNW!N!M1‘R.‘RFR§MMRF (QMMM‘MM RMMW‘WWEZ $8 aggxgggxxxaxgxsxnggg Attention WATER WATER GO TO Fairbanks, Morse 6‘» Co. 136-138 S. Los Angeles St. LOS ANGELES Installers of Complete Pumping Plants. Dealers in Pipe Casing Fittings, Belting \e \e Scale: and Windmill: \e $$$$$9€3€W3€9€3€$3€W$$$$$ gYJVJK'JQ as) 0%)qu ”a” 0009”“ E A $3$$$$$$$$$§€$$ fi$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ‘w Home Tel. 5459 S. H. KISHI, Prop 1 Main Street Nursery Plants of all varieties at moderate prices. Hanging Baskets, Decorative House Plants, Ornamental Trees and Lhade Trees of all kinds. Dlrect Importer of all kinds of Japanese Plants. Japanese Fern Balls and Sago Palms. Plants for Decorating for rent, Packing carefully done for shipping orders. 2305 S. Main St, Cor. 23rd. los Angeles cnmnn 4141434143 434343434) ’3 WC: wvuuvuuuuuu vuwuuuuuuuuuwuwuuwuw FERTILIZERS! NITRATE 0F SODA Suppling Nitrogen or Ammonia. THOMAS’ PHOSPHATE POWDER Supplying Phosphoric Acid. MURIATE AND SULPHATE 0F POTASH supplying Potash. THE THREE ESSENTIAL ELENENTS OF PLANT F000. Can be supplied alone or mixed in any proportion to supply whatever deficiency may exist in the soil, thus paying only for what is lacking and necessary, to replace. Bra %’5 ‘95” it?“ ' ‘ 316 California Street Balfour, Guthrie & (0. 3,, Francisco, Also at Fresno and Los Angeles. Write to them for Pamphtest. 7kg Mackz'flm/y 59’ Elgar/2m! £0. 351-353 Nari/z Main 51’. .9‘ Los Ange/es, Cal. CONSTRUCTING ENGINEERS MUNICIPAL WATER WORKS AIR COMPRESSORS, ELEC- TRICPOWERPLANTS,STEAM POLVER PLANTS Corliss Engines, Automatic Engines, Gasoline Engines, Drilling Engines, Snow Steam Pumps, Rumsey Power Pumps, Rotary Power Pumps, Standard and Water-tube Boilers, Iron and Wood-working Machinery, Passenger and Freight Eleva- tors, Leather, rubber, cotton Belting, Wood Pulleys, and Shafting. , ASADENA? ‘ :1: N URSERY i fmfifii'éirszzm‘ -WM Pasadena, Cal. fruit and ornamental trees, Palms, Etc. 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