START MICROFILMED 1985 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA - BERKELEY GENERAL LIBRARY BERKELEY, CA 94720 COOPERATIVE PRESERVATION MICROFILMING PROJECT THE RESEARCH LIBRARIES GROUP, INC. Funded by THE NATIONAL ENDOWMENT FOR THE HUMANITIES THE ANDREW W. MELLON FOUNDATION Reproductions may not be made without permission. THE PRINTING MASTER FROM WHICH THIS REPRODUCTION WAS MADE IS HELD BY THE MAIN LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BERKELEY, CA 94720 FOR ADDITIONAL REPRODUCTION REQUEST MASTER NEGATIVE NUMBER §5-3145 AUTHOR: Union Pacific Railvoa.d Company TITLE: Sights and Scenes in Oregon... PLACE: Omaha, Neb. DATE:LC ¢ 129%] VOLUME F €8I S- CALL scx MASTER NEG. NO. 3/25 NO. Union Pacific railroad company. Sights and scenes in Oregon, Yashington and Alaska for tourists, Compliments of the Fassenger department, Union Pacific ryes, Omaha, Neb. Chicagg Rand, licNally & co. c¢c18858, l p.1.,40 p. illus.,fold.map. 22x10cm. 187968 NS pA FILMED AND PROCESSED BY LIBRARY PHOTOGRAPHIC SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 7 BERKELEY, CA 94720 ~ JOB NO. 8/6 0! 2/4 DATE ‘9 83 — REDUCTION RATIO 8 DOCUMENT ; "SOURCE THE BANCROFT LIBRARY oO No On Ss lz ll22 ie fl22 l 2.2 so. I= iz fi2e fie 2 0 is te fle Jl lis es, MICROCOPY RESOLUTION TEST CHART NATIONAL BUREAU OF STANDARDS STANDARD REFERENCE MATERIAL 1010a (ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No. 2) HLL brrrobrorrrr rmbt So tO No rrr eed JO. TH iv Frrrdrrtee3 _ J4 . 1hSi (TTT ITT OREGON, WASHINGTON TY ano ALASKA. THOS. L. KIMBALL, GENERAL MANAGER, W. LEE, E. L. LOMAX, Asst. Gen‘t Pass, AGENT, Gen. Pass. AGENT. OMAHA, NEB. We © ALASKA (GOuPigts i) omplimenis of the ¢ pl i Passe: nger Tepart ment, by : Unier Puc |C R AR Copyright, 1888, By J. S. TEBBETS, General Passenger Agent, Union Pacific R'y, Omaha, Neb. - 12746 BS LIST OF AGENTS. BANCROFT LiBRARY Baltimore, Md.—217 E. Baltimore St.—D. E. BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt. Boston, Mass.—290 Washington St.—\V. S. CONDELL, New England i No and Passenger Agent. » ITH, Traveling Passenger A gent, E. M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. A. P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor. Buffalo, N. Y.—40Y% Pashange St.—S. A. HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt. SETH CALDWELL, Traveling Freight Agent. . Butte, Mon. Ter.—Corner Main and Broa way--J. A. LEWIS, Gen’] Agt. Cheyenne, Wyo.—C. W. SWEKT, Freight and Ticket Agent. Chicago, I11.—191 South Clark St.—W. H. KNIGHT, General Agent Passenger and Pian Departments. T. W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent. M. F. MOSS, Traveling Passenger Agent. W. T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent. J. A. HUGHSTON, Eastern Trave ing Freight Agent. H. T. STOKES, Cit y Freight Solicitor. H. G. BIRD, City Freight Solicitor. Cincinnati, 0.—169 Walnut St.—J. D. WELSH, General Agent Freight and asamp Departments. H. C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. Cleveland, O.—Kennard House.—A. G. SHEARMAN, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. Columbus, 0.—N. W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.—T. C. HIRST, T. P. A. Council Bluffs, Ia.—506 First Ave.—W. H. BURNS, General Agent. M. J. GREEVY, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot. J. W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot. A. T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway. Denver, Col.—1703 Larimer St.—D. B. KEELER, Asst. General Freight Agent and General Agent Passenger Department. H. J. RIFENBERICK, Traveling Passenger Agent. F. B. SEMPLE, City Passens ig Des Moines, Ia.—218 4th St.—E. M, FO D, ng Dusen Agent. Detroit, Mich.—62 Griswold 8t.—D. W. JOHNSTON, ichigan Pass. Agt. Helena, Montana Ter.—28 No. Main St.—A. EK. VEAZIE, City Tkt. Agt. Indianapolis, Ind.—Room 3 Jackson Place— (EO. H. HILL, T. P. A. Kansas City, Mo.—9th and Broadway.—F. B. WHITNEY, General Agent Passenger Department and Assistant General Freight Agent. J. B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent. T. F. FITZGIBBON, Traveling Passenger Agent. H. XK. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent. T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave. A. W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. C. A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St. London, England—THOS. COOK & SON S, Eu'pn Ag’ts, Ludgate Circus. C. A. GILLIG, Agent, U.S. Exchange, 9 Strand, Charing Cross. Los Angeles, Cal.—51 No. Spring St.—JOHN CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't. A. J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department. Louisville, Ky.—346 W. Main St.—N. HAI HT, Traveling Pass. Agent. Milwaukee, Wis.—GEO. J. NEEDHAM, Trav. Freight and Pass. Agt. Montreal, Can.—136 St. James St.—JAS. DUNN , Canadian Freight and Passenger Agent. New York City—287 Broadway.—R. TENBROECK, Gen’l Eastern Agent. J. F. WILEY, Passenger Agent. F. R. SEAMAN, City assenger Agent. Ogden, Utah— Union Depot—C. A HEN Y, Ticket Agent. Omaha, Neb.—9th and Farnam Sts.—J. B. FRAWLE , Trav. Pass. Agt. HARRY P. DEUEL, City Pass. and Ticket Agent, 1302 Farnam St. J. K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marcy Sts. Philadelphia, Pa.—133 S. 4th St.—T. P.'VAILLE, Traveling Pass. Agt. . T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent. . Pittsburg, Pa.—400 Wood St.—H. E. PASSAVANT, T. F. and P. A. THOS. S. SPEAR, Trav. Freight and Passenger Agent. Portland, Oregon—Cor. First and Oak Sts.—A. IL. MAXWELL, Gen- eral Passenger and Ticket Agent, O. R. & N. Co. B. CAMPBELL, General Freight Agent, O. R. & N, Co. St. Joseph, Mo.—W. P. ROBINSON, Jr..G. F. and P. A. St. J. & G. L R.R. St. Louis, Mo.—213 N. 4th St.—J. F. AGLAR, G. A. F. and P. D. E. R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent. A. W. BARBOUR, City Passenger Agent. C. C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent. 2 St. Paul, Minn.—154 Kast 3d St.—F. L. LYN E, Traveling Pass. Agent. Sacramento, Cal.—1018 Second St.—C. L. HANNA, Traveling Agent. Salt Lake City, Utah—201 Main St.—J. V. PARKER, Division Freight and Passenger Agent. C. E. INGALLS, City Passenger Agent. San Francisco, Cal.—1 Montgomery St.—J. B. KIRKLAND, General Agent Passenger Department. 8. W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department. W. G. HOLCOMBE, Passenger Agsit. H. R. BLAIR, Traveling Freight Agent. J. F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Ave, J. A. 8. REED, General Traveling Agent, 191 South Clark 8t., CHICAGO. C. J. SMITH, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, NEB. E. L. LOMAX, T. W. LEE, General Passenger Agent, Ass’t General Passenger Agent, OMAHA, NEB. Pullman's Palace (Bar (Bompany Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting lines. PULLMAN PALACE OAR RATES BETWEEN Double Drawing New York and Chicago $ 5.00 New York and St. Louis 6.00 Boston and Caioapo 65.50 Chicago and Omaha 2.50 Chicago and Denver 6.00 St. Louis and Kansas City 2.00 St. Louis and Omaha Kansas City and Cheyenne Council Bluffs, Omaha or Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City a Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland . C. Bluffs, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco or Los Angeles Cheyenne and Portl d Denver and Leadvi. Denver and Portland Denver and Los Angeles Denver and San Francisco Pocatello and Butte...e.oceeeeecerccecevneeeccnere:s REE SEE one ep 223338328888883 For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be charged. The Excursion, Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the Pullman Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, aliowing a full bed to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private observation and smok- ing rooms, folding beds, reclining chairs, buffets and kitchens. They are “just the thing® for tourists, theatrical companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The Hunting Cars have special conveniences, being provided with dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, etc. These cars can be chartered at following rates per diem (the time being reckoned from date of departure until returnof same, unless otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company). T.ess than Ten Days. per day. $ 50.00 | Private or Hunting Cars. .... 45.00 | Private Cars with Buffet.... . 0.00 | Dining Cars Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, or Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be given up at destination), as follows : Where berth rate is $1.50, car rate will be é 3 “ ce ‘ ce . . 2.50, . ‘ “ For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased $10 00. 1) ‘ Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants, and a commissariat if desired. Such chartered cars must contain not less than 15 persons -holding first-class tickets, and another full fare ticket will be re- quired for each additional passenger over 15. If chartered * per diem ’’ cars are given up en routs, chartering party must arrange for return to originai starting point free, or pay amount of freight necessary for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior of these cars can be had of any agent of the Company. MEALS. All trains (except the Golden Gate Special, in which a dining car isrun,) stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are furnished under the direct control of this Company by the Pacific Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also to be found at these stations. SIGHTS AND SCENES IN ORE- GON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA. BANCROFT LiBRARY i Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means “ wild thyme,” the early explorers finding that herb growing there in great profusion. So far as we have any record Oregon seems to have been first vis- ited by white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down its shores in 1778. Captain Gray, commanding the ship “ Columbia,” of Boston, Mass., discovered the noble river in 1791, which he named after his ship. Astoria was founded in 1811; immigration was in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization was effected in 1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. It has an area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and 1o0,- 000,000 acres of forest in the State. The Oregon - Railway -& Navigation Company, a Division of the Union Pacific Railway, will sell at greatly reduced rates a series of excursion tickets called “ Columbia Tours,” using Portland as a central Point. Stopover privieges will be given within the imitation of the tickets. Tickets good ni from date of sale. 3 Tey First Columbia Tour: Portland to “The Dalles” by rail, and return by river. Second Columbia Tour: Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco. and Clatsop Beach, and return by river. Third Columbia Tour: Portland to Port Townsend Seattle, and Tacoma by boat and return. Founn Columbia Tour: Portland to Alaska and return. Fifth Columbia Tour: Portland to San Francisco by boat. PORTLAND Is a very beautiful city of 50,000 inhabitants, and sit- - uated on the Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one side, the river,and on the other a range ot hills, which, within easy walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet above the river, afford- ing a most picturesque building site. From the very 3 ui oc Oo ao Zz < i = 2 streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the Cascade Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and Ranier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west are ascended the view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some of the higher points, there is, to the east, the valley stretch- ing away to the Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and Willamette; in the foreground Port- land, in the middle distance Vancouver, and, bound- ing the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with their snow-clad peaks, and the gorge of the Columbia in plain sight, whilst away to the north the course of the Columbia may be followed for miles. To the west, from the foot of the hills, the valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd miles to the Coast Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific Ocean and bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood is but little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, which in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed Yosem- ite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper Willamette, within the limits of a few hours’ trip, offers beauties equaling the Rhine, whilst thirty- six hours gives the Lower Columbia, beside which the Rhine and Hudson sink into insignificance. In short, within a few hours’ walk of the heart of this busy city are beauties surpassing the White Mountains or Adi- rondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies within the limits of a day’s picnicing. There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of Portland than the wealth which has accu- - mulated here in the short period which has elapsed since the city first sprang into existence. Theory is all very well, but the actual proof is in the result. At the taking of the census of 1880, Portland was the third wealthiest city in the world in proportion to population; since that date wealth has accumulated at an unprecedented rate, and it is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. Among all her wealthy men, not one can be singled out who did not make his. money here, who did not come here poor to grow rich. “There is no claim that the business men of Portland possess more business ability or energy than those of other business centres, yet the wholesale and: jobbing trade of the city was $70,00,000 in 1838, and is increasing at the rate of 25 per cent. per year. What has created Portland’s enormous wealth, its great trade, if not the natural strength of its position, of which its business men have done nothing more than take the most ordinary advantage? ’ First Tour.—Passengers wili remember that, arriving at The Dalles on the Oregon Short Line Division of the Union Pacific, they have the option of proceeding into Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for either route. The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the long railway ride, and 5 a day’s sail down the majestic Columbia is a memory- picture which lasts a lifetime. It is eighty-eight miles by rail to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a few miles of the city. By river, it is forty- five miles to the Upper Cascades, then a six-mile portage via narrow guage railway, then sixty miles by steamer again to Portland. The boat leaves I'he Dalles at about seven in the morning and reaches Portland at six in the evening. The accommodations on these boats are first class in every respect: good table, neat staterooms, and courteous attendants. This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from Portland by the Short Line Division of the Union Pacific. Take the afternoon train from Portland to The Dalles. It is a charming ride, the river in full view all the way. Arriving at The Dalles in the even- ing, walk down to the boat, which lies only a few yards down stream from the station. Sleep on board, so that you may be ready early in the morning for the stately panorama of the river. Another plan 1s to give a day to the interesting country in the near vicinity., The Dalles proper of the Columbia begin at Colpo teen miles above this point, and are simply a sficces- sion of rapids, until, nearing Dalles station, the stream for two and a half miles narrows down between walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the flood tides of the spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. The word “Dalles” is rather misleading. The word is French, “dalle,” and means, variously, “a plate,” ‘“a flagstone,” “a slab,” alluding to the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and the valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called a chasm or a defile or gorge, “dalles,”” meaning in their vernacular “a trough "— and “Dalles” it has remained. There is a quaint Indian legend connected with the spot which may interest the curious, and it runs something on this wise. Clark's Fork and the Snake river, it will be re- membered, unite at Ainsworth to form the Columbia. It flows furiously for a hundred miles and more west- ward, and when it reaches the outlying ridges of the Cascade chain it finds an immense low surface paved with enormous sheets of basaltic rock. But here is the legend : THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES. In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants of the world were fiends, and very highly un- civilized fiends at that. The whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic action. The craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and fountains of liquid flame. It was an extremely fiendish ‘country, and naturally the inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great plains of the Upper Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, which beat against a rampart of 6 hills to the east of The Dalles. And the great weapon of the fiends in warfare was their tails, which were of prodigious size and terrible strength. Now, the wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the entire crew was one fiend called the “Devil.” He was a thoughtful’ person and viewed with alarm the ever increasing tend- ency among his neighbors toward fighting and gen- eral wickedness. The whole tribe met every summer to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of these reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested that a general recon- ciliation take place and that they all live in peace, The astonished fiends could not understand any such unwarlike procedure from /:m, and with one accord, suspecting treachery, made straight at the intended reformer, who, of course, took to his heels. The fiends pressed him hard as he sped over the plains of The Dalles, and as he neared the defile he struck a Titanic blow with his tail on the pavement—and a chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed the waters of the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still pursued him, and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a vaster cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into the chasm—and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just time to rap once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. And this time he was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the second, split the rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that held back the inland sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain of the Cascades and opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was the crack of doom for the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far short of the edge, where the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and were swept away by the flood; so the whole race of fiends perished from the face of the earth. But the Devil was in sorry case. His tail was unutterably dislocated by his last blow; so, leap- ing across the chasm he had made, he went home to rear his family thoughtfully. There were no more aptagonists; so, perhaps, after all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his children to The Dalles and told them the terrible history of his escape. And aftera time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the inland sea was drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, and still the waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring,seaward. But the Devil had one sor- row. All his children born before the catastrophe were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that event every new-born imp wore a flaccid, inverte- brate, despondent tail—the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the legend of The Dalles—a shining lesson to reformers. Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid 7 MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. panorama begins to unfold on this lordly stream— “ Achilles of rivers,” as Winthrop called it. It is difficult to describe the charm of this trip. Residents of the East pronounce it superior to the Hudson, and travelers assert there is nothing like it in the Old World. It is simply delicious to those escaped from the heat and dust of their far-off homes to embark on this noble stream and steam smoothly down past frowning headlands and “rocks with carven imageries,” bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past islands and falls, and distant’ views of snowy peaks. There is no trip like it on the coast, and for a river excur- sion there is not its equal in the United States. THE ISLE OF THE DEAD. Twelve miles below ¢ The Dalles” there is a lonely, rugged island anchored amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which rises from its rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of verdure, or tree, or shrub, appears. And Captain McNulty, as he stood at the wheel and steadied the “ Queen,” said: “ That monument? It’s Victor Trevet’s. Of course you never heard of him, but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the old times. Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early legislatures; sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him with their troubles, and when he said a lawsuit didn’t go, it didn’t, and he always stuck up for the Indians, and always called his own kind ¢ dirty mean whites.” I used to think that was put on, and maybe it was, but anyhow that’s the way he used to talk. And a hundred times he has said to me, ¢ John, when I die, I want to be buried on Memaloose Isle.’ That's the ‘Isle of the Dead,” which we just passed, and has been from times away back the burial place of the Chinook Indians. It’s just full of ’em. And I says to him, ‘Now, Vic, it’s fame your after.’ . ‘John,’ says he, ‘I'll tell you: I'm not indifferent to glory; and there’s many a big gun laid away in the cemetery that people for- get in a year, and his grave’s never visited after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Mem- aloose Isle, I'll not be forgotten while people travel this river. And another thing: You know, John, the dirty, mean whites stole the Indian's burial ground and built Portland there. Every day the papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug’s proposed palace, and how Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I won't be buried alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you further, John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when the Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain’t going to have any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe I won’t be noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their crowd.’ 9 “ And I tell you,” said the honest Captain, as he swung the “ Queen” around a sharp headland, and the monument and island vanished, “he has got his wish. He don’t lay among the whites, and there isn’t a day in summer when the name of Vic. Trevet ain't mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, just as I am telling it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five years ago, some of his old friends had him brought back to ‘The Dalles,” and one lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Mema- loose Isle, and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe and sure, for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. She's eight feet square at the base, built of the native rock right on the island, then three feet of granite, then a ten- foot column. It cost us $1,500, and Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. Yes, sir, he’s there for sure till resurrection day. Queer idea? Why, blame it all, if he thought he could get in along with the Chinooks it’s all right, ain’t it? Don’t want a man to lose any chances, do you?” So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and sud- denly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to three feet, according to sea- son, and this tidal influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is fifty miles of glorious beauty from “The Dalles’ to the Cascades. Here we leave the “ Harvest Queen’ and take a narrow- gauge railway for six miles around the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a twin steamer to the “ Queen ”—the “ Multnomah,” a boat fitted up with equal taste and comfort. Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming spots, sixty miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; Multnomah Falls, a filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a basin on the hillside and then 130 feet to the river; past the rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering up a thousand feet; past that curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and the palisades; past Fort Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once stationed, and just at sunset leav- ing the Columbia, which by this time has broadened into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve miles to Portland. And the memory of that day’s journey down the lordly river will remain a gracious possession for years to come. 10 THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES. There is a quaint Indian legend concerning the Cascades to the effect that away back in the forgotten times there was a natural bridge across the river—the: water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had made this bridge very beautiful for his red children ; it was firm, solid earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants who sat always glower- ing at each other from far away (Mount Adams and Mount Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew black with their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. And in their rage and fury they began to throw great stones and huge mountain boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for days,and when the smoke and thethunderings had passed away and the sun shone peacefully again, the people came back once more. But there was no bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above the lost bridge, but below that the river fretted and shouted and plunged over jagged and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, throwing the spray high in air, madly spending its strength in treacherous whirlpools and deep seductive currents— ever after to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. THe stoutest warrior could not live in that terrible torrent. So the beautiful bridge was lost, destroyed th this Titan battle, but far down in the water could . be seen many of the stately trees which the Great Spirit caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned to stone, and they are there even unto this day. The thgory of the scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a forest down in the deep water.. - More- over, pieces which have been recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as the poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the centuries, but flows ip the same channel here as when in the remote ages the lava, overflowing, cut oat a course and left its pathway clear for all time. Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation is found, grayish in color and not very pretty, but showing con- clusively its sea formation. Sandstone is also at times uncovered, showing that this was made by sea deposit before the lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is said to be the largest lava district in the world. The basaltic formations in the volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for their richness, and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. The lava formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river—all basaltic formation overlaid with an incomparably rich soil. : The trip from Portland by rail to “ The Dalles,” if the 11 | Retake of Preceding Frame | “And I tell you,” said the honest Captain, as he swung the “Queen” around a sharp headland, and the monument and island vanished, ** he has got his wish. He don't lay among the whites, and there 1sn't a day in summer when the name of Vic. Trevet ain't mentioned, cither on yon train or on a boat, just as 1 am telling it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five years ago, some of his old friends had him brought back to ‘The Dalles,” and one lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Mema- loose Isle, and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe and sure, for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. She's eight feet square at the base, built of the native rock right on the island, then three feet of granite, then a ten- foot column. It cost us $1,500, and Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. Yes, sir, he's there for sure till resurrection day. Queer idea? Why, blame it all, if he thought he could get in along with the Chinooks it’s all right, ain’t it? Don’t want a man to lose any chances, do you?” So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and sud- denly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to three feet, according to sea- son, and this tidal influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is fifty miles of glorious beauty from * The Dalles” to the Cascades. Here we leave the *“ Harvest Queen’ and take a narrow- gauge railway for six miles around the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a twin steamer to the * Queen ’"—the * Multnomah,” a boat fitted up with equal taste and comfort. Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming spots, sixty miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; Multnomah Falls, a filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a basin on the hillside and then 130 feet to the river; past the rocky walls of Cape Hern, towering up a thousand feet; past that curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and the palisades; past Fort Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once stationed, and just at sunset leav- ing the Columbia, which by this time has broadened into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve miles to Portland. And the memory of that day’s journey down the lordly river will remain a gracious possession for years to come. 10 THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES. There is a quaint Indian legend concerning the Cascades to the effect that away back in the forgotten times there was a natural bridge across the river—the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had made this bridge very beautiful for his red children ; it was firm, solid earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants who sat always glower- ing at each other from far away (Mount Adams and Mount Hoecd) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew black with their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. And in their rage and fury they began to throw great stones and huge mountain boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for days,and when the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and the sun shone peacefully again, the people came back once more. But there was no bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above the lost bridge, but below that the river fretted and shouted and plunged over jagged and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, throwing the spray high in air, madly spending its strength in treacherous whirlpools and deep seductive currents— ever after to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. Tle stoutest warrior could not live in that terrible torrent. So the beautiful bridge was lost, destroyed ih this Titan battle, but far down in the water could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great Spirit caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned to stone, and they are there even unto this day. The thgory of the scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a forest down in the deep water. More- over, pieces which have beenrecovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as the poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the centuries, but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote ages the lava, overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway clear for all time. Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation is found, grayish in color and not very pretty, but showing con- clusively its sea formation. Sandstone isalsoat times uncovered, showing that this was made by sea deposit before the lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is said to be the largest lava district in the world. The basaltic formations in the volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for their richness, and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. The lava formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river—all basaltic formation overlaid with an incomparably rich soil. ‘The trip from Portland by rail to ¢“ The Dalles,” if the 11 BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. tourist should chance not to arrive irr Portland by the Union Pacific line from the east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles distant. Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; Bonneville, forty-one miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five miles farther is the stupendous government lock now in process of building around the rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where tourists leave for the ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty miles through a picturesque region to the base of the mountain. Then from Hood river, an ice-cold stream, twenty-two miles into “ The Dalles,” where the steamer may be taken for the return trip. In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to “ The Dalles” there are twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The railway follows the Columbia’s brink the entire distance to within a few miles of the city. The " scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, if they may be so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic heights. One timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river with the velocity of a cannon- ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is claimed a log makes the trip in twenty seconds. Second Tour.—While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down the lower river from Portland to Astoria and. Ilwaco, and return. The facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very wonderful sight—five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen pyramid some 14,000 feet. Small villages and land- ing places line the shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are of the more important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Klama, Rainier, Westport, Cathlamet, Napa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of 6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 108 miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the mouth of the river is the pretty town of Ilwaco, Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben Holliday’s hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a round trip, includ- ing a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs’ from the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a drive twenty-five 13 miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very fine. The boats of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company on the Columbia leave nothing to be desired. The “T. J. Potter,” a magnificent side-wheel steamer, made her first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet beam, and 10 feet hold, with a capacity of 6oo passengers. The saloon and state- rooms are fitted with every convenience, and hand- somely decorated. The Potter” was built entirely in Portland, and the citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. In August, 1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at Portland to the land- ing stage at Astoria in five hours and thirty-one min- utes. Then there are two night passenger boats from Portland down, the “ R. R. Thompson" and the “S. G. Reed,” both stern-wheelers of large size, spacious, roomy boats, well appointed in every particular. The Thompson is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition to these, there are two day mail passenger and freight boats, the « Mountain Queen,” and “ Bonita.” They handle the way traffic; the larger boats above mentioned make the run direct from Portland to Astoria without any landings. The two boats, “ Multnomah ” and * Har- vest Queen,” ply on the Upper Columbia route from « The Dalles” to the Cascades, and the Cascades to Portland. CRATER LAKE. Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath county, Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacfic Railroad at Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and about ninety miles from the lake, which can be reached by a very good wagon road. The lake is about six miles wide by seven miles long, but it is not its size which is its beauty or its attraction. The surface of the water in the lake is 6,251 feet above the level of the sea, and is sur- rounded by cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over 2,000 feet in height, and which are scantily covered with timber, and which offer at but one point a way of reaching the water. The depth of the water is very great, and it is very transparent, and of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern portion of the lake is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, and slightly covered with timber. In the top of this island is a depression, or crater—the Witches’ Cal- dron—i1o00 feet deep, and 475 feet in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a once mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the lake, is Llao Rock, reach- 14 ing to a height of 2,000 feet above the water, and so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its summit to the waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below. : So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the waters in this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple them; and looking from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are seen mirrored in the glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the eye can distinguish the line where the cliffs leave off and their reflected counterfeits begin. OREGON NATIONAL PARK. Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon National Park. This area con- tains Crater Lake and its approaches. The citizens of Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the reservation of this park, and a bill in conformity with the petition passed the United States Senate in Feb- ruary, 1888. The matter is now before the House of Representatives. Third Tour.—From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma. WASHINGTON TERRITORY Is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement by Americans was made at Tumwater in -1845. Prior to this, the country was known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial government was organized in 1853. The Territory is almost inex- haustibly rich in coal and lumber, and has frequently been called the ¢ Pennsylvania of the Pacific Coast.” The precious metals are also found in abundance in many districts. The yield of wheat is prodigious. Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, peaches, cher- ries, grapes, and all berries flourish in the greatest profusion. Certain it is that there is no other locality where trees bear so early and surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater excellence, and where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial Ex- position, Washington Territory fruit tables were the wonder of visitors and an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory carried off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where thirty-three States were represented. It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests from Portland to Tacoma. Either of the splendid steamers, “ Olympian ” or ¢ Alaskan,” of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Line, may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma at nine in the morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget Sound. The hills on either side are darkly green, the Sound widening slowly 15 CRATER LAKE, ORE., UNION PACIFIC RY. as we go. Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 15,000 people, full of vim, push, and energy. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful har- bor and gently sloping bluffs, “the city of destiny,” beyond all doubt, of any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by Nature in many ways, Townsend has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, and this must tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are considered. Victoria, B. C., is reached at seven in the evening, and we sleep that night in Her Majesty’s dominions. The next day may be spent very pleasantly in driving and walking about the city, a handsome town of 14,000 people. A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these drives are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded with lawns and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine har- bor. This is the British naval station where several iron-clads are usually stationed. There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of the solid rock, capa- cious enough to receive large vessels. In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and take possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the morning. When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, and moving past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, through which we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste of being at sea without any dis- comfort, for the water is without a ripple. As we steam homeward there is a vision which has been described for all time by a master hand. ‘One becomes aware of a vast, white shadow in the water. It is a giant mountain dome of snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The smoky haze of an Oregon August hid all the length of its lesser ridges and left this mighty summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its splendid snows were visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, noonday sky. Kingly and alone stood this majesty without any visible comrade, though far to the north and south there were isolated sovereigns. This regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mboyunt Rainier, but more melodious is its Indian name, ¢ Tacoma.’ ” A LEGEND OF TACOMA. Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint legend of Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at Nisqually. ¢Tamanous,” among the native Indians of this section, is a vague and half- personified type of the unknown and mysterious forces of Nature. There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but there are a thousand emanations, each one a tamanous with a small “t.”" Each Indian 17 has his special tamanous, who thus becomes the guide, philosopher, and friend ” of every Siwash. The tamanous, or totem, types himself as a salmon, a bea- ver, an elk, a canoe, a fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of its features this legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip Van Winkle; it may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore. « Avarice, O, Boston tyee!” quoth the Siwash, study- ing me with dusky eyes, “is a mighty passion. Know you that our first circulating medium was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike a very opaque quill toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut square at both ends, We string it in many strands and hang it around the neck of one we love—namely, each man his own neck. And with this we buy what our hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, and he who has most hiaqua is wisest and best of all the dwellers on the Sound. “ Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter and fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man thought deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited for elk or salmon he took advice within himself from his demon—he talked with tamanous. And always his question was, * How may I put hiaqua in my purse?’ But never had Tamanous revealed to him the secret. There loomed Tacoma, so white and glittering that it seemed to stare at him very terribly and mockingly, and to know of his shameful avarice, and how it led him to take from starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels of hiaqua, and give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and salmon. His own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunt- ing on the sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began to talk to his soul. ‘Listen!’ said tamanous—and then the great secret of untold wealth was revealed tohim. He went home and madc his preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for a long hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped just below the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and -he struck the summit to- gether, for there, tamanous had revealed to him, was hiaqua—hiaqua that should make him the greatest and richest of his tribe. He looked down and saw a hollow covered with snow, save at the centre, where a black lake lay deep in a well of purple rock, and at one end of the lake were three large stones or monu- ments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and the morning sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like a salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his great joy, was the carven image of an elk’s head. This was his own tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his elk-horn pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the monument. At the sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen gigantic otters came 18 out of the black lake and, sitting in a circle, watched him. And at every thirteenth blow they tapped the ground with their tails in concert. The miser heeded them not, but labored lustily for hours. At last, over- turning a thin scale of rock, he found a square cavity filled to the brim with hiaqua. “ He was a millionaire. “The otters retired to a respectful distance, recog- nizing him as a favorite of Tamanous. “He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge his arm, there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk sinews, fifty shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, so he prepared to depart. He loaded himself with countless strings of hiaqua, by fifties and hundreds, so that he could scarcely stagger along. Nota string did he hang on the tamanous of the elk, or the salmon, or the kamas—not one—but turned eagerly toward his long descent, At once all the otters plunged back into the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; a thick, black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms in the mountains—and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the fierce whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung over icy banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night was around him, and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a growing undertone which he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. Floating upon this under- tone were sharper tamanous voices, shouting and screaming, always sneeringly, ‘Ha, ha, hiaqua!—ha, ha, ha!” Whenever the miser attempted to continue his descent the whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, flinging him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp lava jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever deeper and more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, demoniac, and devilish; the laughter more appalling; and the miser more and more exhausted with vain buffeting. He at last thought to propitiate exasperated Tamanous, and threw away a string of hiaqua. But the storm was renewed blacker, louder, crueler than before. String by string he parted with his treasure, until at the last, sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a despairing cry, he cast from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank down insensible. “It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was upon the very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, and made a hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas root, and took a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he became aware of an odd change in his con- dition. He was not bruised and wounded, as he expected, but very stiff only, and his joints creaked like the creak of a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. 19 ui oc Oo oc w = x =x @ = BB or | Oo Oo < oO oO « cc a » Oo Oo © His hair was matted and reached a yard down his back. ¢Tamanous,” thought the old man. But chiefly he was conscious of a mental change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and wealth seemed to have lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like gold and silver and precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign comrade and friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought he had never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on his downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his lodge used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a song ; she was decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. It was his wife; and she told him he had been gone many, many years—she could not tell how many; that she had remained faithful and constant to him, and distracted her mind from the bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas and magic herbs, and had thus acquired a genteel competence. But little cared the sage for such things; he was re- joiced to be at home and at peace, and near his own - early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in a place of security. He imparted whatever he possessed— material treasures or stores of wisdom and experience— freely to all the land. Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the salmon, chase the elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great medicine man of the Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and race. Within a year after he came down from his long nap on the side of Tacoma, a child, my father, was born to him. The sage lived many years, revered and beloved, and on his death-bed told this history to my father as a lesson and a warning. My father dying, told it to me. ButlI, alas! have no son; I grow old, and lest this wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again obliged to interpose against av- arice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston tyee. Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an ear- lier age, but profit by it and be wise!” So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of Fort Nisqually, and motioning, in express- ive pantomime, at the close, that he was dry with big talk and would gladly “ wet his whistle.” The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabit- ants, and is in a highly prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand Alaskan tour, wind- ing up through all the wonders of sound and strait, bay and ocean, to the far North summerland—a trip of most entrancing interest. The return from Tacoma to Portland may be made by either rail or boat. So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget Sound that it would seem the subject might be somewhat over done. But it still remains to be said that justice can never be done to the scenic glories of this beautiful inland sea. The views from 21 y different points, and from almost every point on the Sound, are of sublime grandeur. On the east are the Cascade Mountains, ranging from 5,000 to 14,400 feet in height, Mount Rainier (or Tacoma, as it is also called) being of the latter altitude, and only third in height of the mountains of the United States. On the west are the Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to 8,000 feet. Both ranges, brilliantly Snow-crowned, are within view at the same time from various points, and the scenery in its en- tirety, with its continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not be excelled. Strangers and travel- ers who have visited every part of the world never leave the deck of the steamers while going through the waters of the Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount Rainier, Senator George F. Edmunds wrote as, follows: “I have been through the Swiss mountains, and am compelled to own that there is no comparison between the finest effects exhibited there and what is seen in approaching this grand and iso- lated mountain. I would be willing to go 500 miles again to see that scene. The Continent is yet in igno- rance of what will be one of the grandest show places, as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly called the play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of Mt. Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America only, but for the world be- sides, with thousands of sites for building purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the view that can be obtained from them, with topograph- ical features that would make the most perfect sys- tem of drainage both possible and easy, and with a most agreeable and health-giving climate.” A more enthusiastic writer says: “Puget Sound scenery is the grandest scenery in the world. One has here in combination the sublimity of Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the rugged beauty of Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, rich-toned skies of Italy, the pas- toral landscape of England, with velvet meadows and magnificent groves, massed with floral bloom, and the blending tints and bold color of the New Eng- land Indian summer. Features with which nothing within the vision of another city can be placed in com. parison are the Olympic range of mountains in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the Ranier, Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of eternal white, and the great falls of the Sno- qualmie, 280 feet high, near by.” The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder and a study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water seem to have strug- gled for dominion one over the other. The Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into Admiralty Inlet; the inlet penetrates the * heart of the Territory, cutting the land into most eeu shapes, circling and twisting into a Buadied minor inlets, into which flow a hundred Hy e i their turn by myriads of smaller creeks and Sous ” a veritable network of lakes, streams, peninsulas, = islands which, with the mountain ranges haghiag ks landscapes on either hand, can not fail to be pic 9 esque in the extreme. Here on the placid besoin of this inland sea, the pleasure seeker can enjoy " 0 delights and exhilarating influences of ocean pagel without its inconveniences. No sea ee proneness to reflect on “to be or not to Be ih amid the bracing breezes, the steady, easy gl Sof the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, i oe him through scenes as fair as the poet's Byighiont dreams. This ¢ Mediterranean of the ® es throughout its length and breadth is poms ih heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed Ista S. Fh giant firs are the tallest and straightest in the wo : Here the “Great Eastern” came for her ads, an here thousands of ships obtain their spars yearly. 4 To repeat, the scenery is indeed something ison passed. A ride over these placid waters, In an : ou, around rocky headlands, among woody mounaah, along beautiful beaches and graceful fon gues 0 I vety meadows—all ‘neath the shadows of (owe : g snow-clad peaks, is a delight worth days o frame io experience. It enraptures the artist and eA Hey even ordinarily prosy alls ge nosy Stone wanting to make of suc Soils oe Tho Townsend, the most doligivia) 204 agreeable watering places in the world. bi rounded by magnificent and Joneses sce oy, with beautiful drives and lovely oy or Ta he ing purposes, with spiealiy Athing my oe bof ry description to be had, i A misanthrope, Thy Dodgy ay a0 the favorite resorts on the ( : aS ne led to the building of the Aca Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of 2 ion dob lars. Other such caravansaries will fo ov a yn time Puget Sound will be famous the Wor oe od its incomparable attractions for the health and p eS. lilly of Olympia, the Territorial Spal, are a number of popular resorts for Sporisiness and campers—beautifud lakes filled with 4 ou, and streams alive Wilms Speckled moma Sunes ts abound in bear an , bhi quail, and water fowl afford fine sport to the hurter of small game. Fourth Tour. —To ALASKA. T 1 1 ; inland “Al-av- he native islanders called the man an ay ek-sa,” which signifies “4 great country, and the word ) 23 ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE, has been corrupted into “Alaska.” This immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by Russia to the United States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The country was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is nearly one-fifth as large as all the other States and Territories combined. It is larger than twelve States the size of New York. The best time to visit Alaska is from May to Sep- tember. The latter month is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin to grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five days. As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and comfortable clothing for both should be pro- vided. There are no “Palace” hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to remain over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the steamer goes, will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth seeing in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as Chilcat, say up to about the 58th degree of north latitude. The pleasure is not so much in the stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing through new chan- nels, past new islands, opening up new points of inter- est, until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnifi- cent in nature is reached. A correspondent of a western journal signing him- self “ Emerald” has written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. It is so charm- ingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of interesting detail, that it is given herewith entire: ON STeaMsHIP “ GEORGE W. ELDER,” PuGeT SounD, September, 1888. We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth and wonders of Uncle Sam’s domain. At Niagara we have gloried in the belief that all the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we changed our mind when we stood on the brink of Great Shoshone Falls. Ih Yellowstone the proudest thought was that all the world’s other similar won- ders were commonplace; and at Yosemite's Inspi- ration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and delight was richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such majesty or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that it yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one’s appre- ciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native land. 3 Some of our most delighted woyageurs are from Portland, Maine. When they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they imagined themselves at 25 seast half way across our continent. Then, when they had finished that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles more from Omaha to Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the Union Pacific, they were quite sure of it. Of course, they confessed a sense of mingled disappointment and eager anticipation when they learned that they were yet less than half way. They learned what is a fact—that the extreme west coast of Alaska is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is east of Portland, Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks 4,000 miles of being as far west as Uncle Sam’s “ Land’s End,” at extreme Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain one river—the Yukon—about as large as the Mississippi, and a coast line about twice as long as all the balance of the United States. It is twelve times as large as the State of New York, with re- sources that astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether bad, as some would have it. ‘The greatest trouble is that during the eighteen years it has been linked to our chain of Territories it has been treated like a discarded offspring or outcast, cared for more by others than its lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, it is carving for itself a place which others will yet envy, But, to OUR TRIP. There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week of delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte Cafion, and other Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we indulged in that delicious plunge at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, and, en route to Portland over the Oregon Short Line, quaffed that all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and dropped off a day to take a peep at Shoshone Falls, which, in all seriousness, have attractions of which even our great Niagara can not boast. We found that glorious dash down through the palisades of the Columbia, and the sail through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, a fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan jour- ney. The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so placid and quiet are the waters of the land- locked sea and so exquisitely beautiful the environ- ment. The route keeps along the east shore of Van- couver Island its entire length, through the Gulf of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out into Queen Char- lotte Sound, where is felt the first swell of old ocean, and our staunch steamship “ Elder” was rocked in its cradle for about four hours. Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would give his orders in clear, full tones that brought the bcw to some passage leading to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer had to wait for the tide; then would she weave in and out, like a shuttle in a 206 loom, among the buoys, leaving the black ones on the left and the red ones on the right, and ever and anon they would be in a straight line, with the wicked boulder-heads visible beneath the surface or lifting their savage points above, compelling almost a square corner to be turned in order to avoid them. At such times the passengers were all on deck, listening to the captain’s commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding. : : From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and here was the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going ashore in rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty Indians—a foresight of what was to follow—and a salmon-packing house not yet in working order, From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill the water, while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales Island on the extreme left. FORT WRANGEL. Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks along the water’s edge at the head of mod- erately pretty harbors. It seems to be the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the rocks, “the buildings, and trees, and all, show the weird workings of nature’s wrath. In 1863 it was a thriving town where miners outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen river and Cassian mines of British Columbia; but that excitement has temporarily subsided, and the $150,- ooo government buildings are falling in decay. The streets are filled with débris, and everything betokens the ravages of time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the trip here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a history of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. If they are of the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of the pole, and then on down with various signs to the base, the great events of the family and the in- termarriages, not forgetting to give place to the good and bad gods who assisted them. The genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through the mother’s side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four feet at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly in front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the lower end, some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into the al- ready hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the burned bodies of the family. It is only the wealthier families who support a totem pole, and no amount of money can induce an Indian to part with his family tree. THE GRAVES, of those not having totems, graves are found in clusters, or scattered on the mountain sides, or any- where convenience dictates. The bones are put in a 27 < xX » < J < o Oo 0 oc < I < x = it © box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then deposited anywhere. The natives are exceedingly su- perstitious and jealous in their care of the dead, and would sooner die than molest or steal from a grave. That tourists who are supposed to be civilized, refined, and Christianized should steal from them is a crime which should never be tolerated, as it was among the passengers of our steamer. The natives have a belief that all bodies cremated turn into ravens, and that probably accounts to them for the endless number of those birds in Alaska. Ra- vens are sacred birds to them, and are never molested in anyway. There are other methods of disposing of the dead in different parts of Alaska. The bones are sometimes put in a canoe and raised high in the air on straddles; again, in trees above the reach of prowl- ing animals, or set adrift in a discarded canoe. JUNEAU—THE TREADWELL MINE. After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to lighter eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and Douglas Islands. Here was " the same general appearance of location, the gigantic background of densely wooded mountains, the tide- washed streets, on broken slopes, the dirty native wo- men with their wares for sale, with prices advanced 200 per cent. since the steamer whistled, and behind them their stern male companions, goading them: on to make their sales, and stealthily kicking them in their crouched positions if they came down on their prices to an eager but economical tourist. Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It has arisen to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it is now the mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. Parsons, of San Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for conducting ores to a ten-stamp mill now under con- struction. Mr. Parsons has had large experience in this line, and his tales of “ Tramway Life” in Mexico are intensely thrilling and full of interest. It is to be hoped that the good people of Juneau will see to it that he does not have to eat the native dishes, as he did in the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all right in his place, but rather revolting to an epicure. The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas Island. It is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for its vast extent. The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise that there is no fear that the curious minded will .cause employés to waste any time answering questions, for nothing can be heard but the rise and fall of the great crushers and the crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an addition of 120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole blasted by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the circling top, and sloping down to an apex 29 from which is the tunnel to the mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and will double that when the mill is completed. There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society people are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large stocks of goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon country is all done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one the Mining Record, an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which deserves a liberal support. One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip was a dance given by the Indians at A “POTLATCH,” a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its primary sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, or during the progress of some important event, such as the building of a new house, confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating any good fortune, either of peace or war. In this instance, a sub-chief was building a new house, and the frame work was inclosed in rough boards with no’ floor laid. There is never but one entrance to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated several feet from the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill inside as well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was really in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this was the second day of merry-making. There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the town. The water was black with canoes coming to the feast and dance, bringing gifts to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them gifts accord- ing to their wealth, and a feast of boiled rice and raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of the tribe dressed, in the rear of the building, in the wildest and most fantastic garbs, some in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply of blankets, feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an old broom was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added to their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged for a head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with fiendish yells toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there behind a canvas facing the water they began their strange dance. Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee (chief) giving the feast. The medi- cine man had a large bird with white breast, called the loon. While dancing he picked the white feathers and scattered them on the heads of the others. The other squaws were sitting on the ground in long rows in front of the canoes reaching to the water's edge, about 200 feet below. Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the 30 GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA, tribe, and the dancing is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion given to the time given by the voices, and they only advanced a few inches in an hour’s time. The tribe approaching in canoes had their repre- sentative men dressed in the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the canoes glided onto the beach, four abreast, it was the signal to drop the canvas hiding the host and party, and advance a little dis- tance to meet them. Then they broke ranks and made way for the visitors to approach the house with their gifts of blankets or other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians convert their riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in an ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points visited. None of them are poor, all have some money, and many have : WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS. To be sure, some of them are in a measure Chris- tianized, but the odors arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a civilized nose never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, pelts, decaying ~ animals, and human filth made the strongest perfume known to the commercial or social world. The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, ~ would have their faces painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose- rings, and is called a labret. The missionary work ‘done among them is a commendable one, but it seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with * one object in view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the cutting. . Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneal, and it is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat’s wool, woven by hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here, also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here, indeed, were we in the LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At midnight the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper easily. Then the moon. shone in.the clear sky with all regal splendor until 3.30 in the morning, when old Sol again put in his claims for admission. He lifted his golden head ~ above the snowy peaks, and spirited away the uncer- tain light of unfolding dawn by drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and sending floods of radiance 32 upon the entire world. It was a sight never to be for- gotten, if seen but once in a lifetime. : Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening was on the grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire trip, or of any other in America, now opened out before many eager eyes. For several days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the smooth surface from the great glaciers, and speeding to the southern seas like phantom ships. As the ship neared the bay, these huge bergs increased in size and number, with such grotesque and weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in shaping turrets, ghosts, goblins, and the like, each moment develop- ing more and more of things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting with the strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an’ explosion of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see the birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a stupendous crash, and fall into the water- with such force as to send our great ship careening on her side when the swell from the dis- turbed waters strikes her. : The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as it is the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular height of 350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the Glacier Bay, which is estimated from three to five miles in width. The Muir and Davidson glaciers are two arms of that great ice field extending more than goo miles in length, covering more area SANGROFT LIBRARY THAN ALL SWITZERLAND, and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is as large as the Great Rhone glacier. : ~ Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river, which bears these mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With. a roar like distant artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the advancing walls of this great monster split and fall into the watery deep, which has been sounded to a depth of some 8oo feet without finding anchor. ; The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and crevices, towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill monument, cutting the air at all angles, and with a stupendous crash sections break off from any portion without warning and sink far ou? of sight. Scarcely two minutes elapse without a por tion falling from some quarter. The marble white. ness of the face is relieved by lines of intense blue, a characteristic peculiar to the small portions as well as the great. Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy beach was first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. There were acres of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most delicately carved by the soft winds and the sunlight reflections around and 33 HORSE TAIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE. in the arches of ice, such as are never seen except in water, ice, and sky. MOUNTAINS OF ICE, remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one point, or perchance on two points, and arched be- tween. These icebergs were dotted with stones im- bedded; great bowls were melted out and filled with water, and little cups made of ice would afford you a drink of fresh water on the shore of this salt sea. At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold majestic glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the ascent was begun. Too eager to be among the first to see the top, many started without breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, and waited to be physically fortified. The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no trail and no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get across or around some bottom- less fissure. For some distance the ground seemed quite solid. Soon it was discovered that there was but a thin covering of dirt on the solid ice below; but anon in striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick it would prove to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss below which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of future tour- ists, that there are not many such places, or that they may soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reach- ing the top after a tedious and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, as if the sea had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. Deep chasms obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip would send one down the blue steps where no friendly rope could rescue, and only the rushing water could be heard. To view the solid phalanxes of icy floes, as they fill the mountain fastnesses and imper- ceptibly march through the ravines and force their way to the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. The knowledge that the ice is moving from beneath one’s feet thrills one with a curious sensation hard to por- tray. Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins the offering from this wealth of purity, in- stead of the voluntary act of this giant of the Arctic zone, For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was gloried in, when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor and steam away. The whistles call the passengers back to the steamer, where they were soon comparing specimens, viewing instanta- neous photographs, hiding bedraggled clothing, cast- ing away tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth escapes from peril and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, and floated away in dreams of ghoul- ish icebergs, until the call for breakfast disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the 35 BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA. The steamer’s whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska ports, and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the morning, but the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our arrival, and the inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or sell their canoes. There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all races. The harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can imagine. Exquisitely moulded islands are scattered about in the most enchanting way, all shapes and sizes, with now and then a little garden patch, and ever verdant with native woods and grasses and charming rockeries. As far out as the eye can reach the beautiful isles break the cold sea into bewitching inlets and lure the mariner to shelter from evil out- side waves. : ; ~ The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve surrounded by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and too far to try to walk —which is a good excuse for tired feet. The first prominent feature to meet the eye on land is a large square house, two stories high, located on a rocky emi- nence near the shore, and overlooking the entire town and harbor. Once it was a model dwelling of much pretension, with its spacious apartments, hard-wood six-inch plank floors, elaborately-carved decorations, stained-glass windows, and its amusement and refresh- ment halls. All betoken the former elegance of the Russian governor’s home, which was supported with such pride and magnificence as will never be seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows broken, and the old oaken stairways will soon be sink- ing to earth again, and its only life will be on the page of history. ~The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings occupied much of the tourists’ time, and some were deeply interested. There are eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the Presbyterian jurisdic- tion, trying to educate and Christianize the Indians. They are doing a noble work, but it does seem a hope- less task when one goes among the Indian homes, sees the filth, smells the vile odors, and studies the native habits. ; These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have more or less money. MANY ARE RICH, having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they live would indicate the direst poverty. : The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest, the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to the bay, and following the curve in a 36 2 most picturesque circle. The water is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are almost unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen horses and mules in all Alaska—not so much because of the expense of transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs and supplies on their backs. Sitka’s most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during the worship. Serv- ice is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than does our own Government for Alaska. The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repe- tition of the other towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned, and stout. Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved among the green isles, and followed us once more—now on the homeward sail. But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at KILLISNOO. When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. Of course, he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. ‘Over his door was the following: | ‘‘ By the Governor's commission, And the company’s permission, I am made the grand tyhee Of this entire illahee. ‘‘ Prominent in song and story, I've attained the top of glory. As Saginaw I am known to fame, Jake is but my common name.” The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to 37 aia on ea seo wae Snel ge rats Se A aT Se SE Ee ran coh a tea i mS Ai Brau ogo < x n < - =< 1] = s ¥ - » g > iw o be released. He appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port, and stands ready to be photographed every time. Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring oil were put up annually. The industry is now increasing again. NATURAL WEALTH. And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to Alaska’s vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There are 300,000,000 of acres densly wooded with spruce, red and yellow cedar, Oregon pine, hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of timber. Canoes are made from single trees, sixty feet long, with eight-feet beams. Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are en- countered in various localities. Though but little prospected or developed, Alaska is now yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per year. There is a respectable area of island and mainland country well adapted to stock-raising, and the production of many cereals and vegetables. The climate of much of the coast country is milder than that of Colorado, and stock can feed on the pastures the year round. But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal and salmon fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial property. The salmon are found in almost any part of these northern waters where fresh water comes in, as they always seek those streams in the spawning season. There are different varieties that come at stated periods and are caught in fabulous numbers, sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often retarding steamers when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. Van Gasken brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 sal- mon for packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either one or more canning or salt- packing establishments for salmon. Of these, 11,500,- ooo pounds were marketed last year. Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, rock cod, herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters are whipped by porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the way. Governor Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska fish- eries last year at $3,000,000. THE SEAL FISHERIES are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George Islands are the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea otter, and walrus. These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, and are swept by icy blasts in winter. There are many interesting facts connected with these islands and the habits of these phocine kindred, but space is limited. Suffice that 100,000 seals are killed each'year for commercial purposes. Over 1,000,000 seal pups are born every year, and when they leave for winter quarters they go 39 in families and not altogether. An average seal is about six feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from 400 to 800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of June and the first of August. The fur Company are supposed to pay our Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to London to be dyed and made | ready to be put on the market in In fact, Alaska seems full to ov ings to seekers of fortune or pleasure, Its coast climate is mild, wi » De€cause of the snow- i mid air, and never ex- ains (thi Snow-crowned St. Elias, rising 19,500 feet from the ocean’s edge), the mightiest glaciers, world’s of inimitable, indescribable splendor. It is a trip of a lifetime, There is none other like it, and our party unanimously resolves that the tourist who fails to take it misses very much. Fifth Tour.—¥rom Portlan is excepti The steamers « Oregon,” « Columbia,” and « State of California” are powerful iron steamers, built ex- pressly for tourist travel between Portland and San Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour ocean voyage thoroughly enjoyable; the sea is uni- formly Smooth, no greater motion than the long swell of the Pacific, and the boats are models of neatness and comfort. It aff down the California, and derive the invigor trip without any of many points of interest Columbia River Clatsop, lonely Mid-Oce the historical Humboldt Bay, the world-renow The steamshi S, ic li [ »and all improved nautical appliances. The State-rooms, cabins, salons, etc, are elaborately furnished throughout, the whole presenting an unrivaled scene of luxurious ocean life. The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are most obvio ; there is the healthful air of 40 reduction ratio change i ®) )) Oakland of) NY Sonne = Br LYMPLA FAY > ollwaco E\COLY, Bsn x > 8 es EN Fas of the “7 Cattle Ranch 4 * smo ? “ SY ll Yellowstone : £8 5 v enaoveiy d . SP SS I il _ Y, ~ p EAgaT, 7) 1 Al "cox %e; 2% Carleto? SS Re 0 L DoAL COAL Sage Brush] Conglo DARD i iy Ne Bie a 1k, nd [§ OE @ PLATTE == Ne —— A Es & Joatnd suren@ wre, R | Me Fane Mines : 40 Mile Desert a 2 © Retake of Preceding Frame 1 antes OLYMPIN Tenino TsINES. i, TO So « Z y sake - a % . Mediord Ashiand a ANB 5 ; FH CENTRAL - * mls ye GAIT IAKE Cry. | IL ; : ; a 2 25k) es fa 2 Sieber" LSB SY \ $ NC TEDL po 9 ) ) Hr ng . : —— < ] Ne DL ots | CN Santa C > ” ~ 7 Black Roe \ i ~ % ? A : 3 7 = at ate BFS C c 1 = £ : “ JH bk 4 E | “i . & : E o = \ a Np 8 & & CoMMERGE. “NT | LEER Ldn al = : . \ ; ’ : : Plorag, TL Hk BC WO STE seadrd r ( 4 Sead 5] sc FF . > h i 3 ! Elergyy © S W ” A : i b ,. y { : g 4 a : = y E Homawrsy Wit Shas: iy or 7. Lok 5 : 5, A es & od S$ Rs. \ p x ” n ~ jh / Zee PL \ / \ , : OF THE LOOP ~~~ - T Canons | | eG L { | Great Sal Lake TAHITIO wad SA TCH MTS. ! 3 v LARAMIE MTS, Gardens § Oreharda - y | As] MORMOM E CITIES 2 3 : H* reduction ratio change METRIC 1 2 6 7 8 9 10 11 1,2 13 1,4 1 CT TTT Tr rrr Retake of Preceding Frame OREGON WASHINGTON TY ano ALASKA. THOS. L. KIMBALL, GENERAL MANAGER, W. LEE, E. L. LOMAX, Asst. Gen't Pass. AGENT, Gen. Pass AGEN : OMAHA, NEB. o - END OF TITLE "END OF REEL. PLEASE REWIND.