\, ‘V . WW“: ' ' ‘7'Tra. "” r_I[\ 'A'V\J“ ( fl, 2: 31—. lm"! , a!» 4'1"“) ~".-.‘~L ./u - ' v 2 p. . ,- . ~. _ s:“*““+-:”‘;'fw‘r " h: "\"Vm'm " 7-1.3“; . ' . 1 22M WWW} ,2 2 WW» hwgwu-«g, - . 'v'“ fr." 4‘: .- .N‘vfirv» w ‘ w. . ".5 -' 7 A ' “r M"’-": MT _, 2 - . F 2,4,,» W2 ,2, 2 MM}. ‘ «v— " wan ‘ ‘ ~ 2 r r 3‘ )‘f‘gh’rmffl'r‘y 2'..- 4;" \ , ,- :\\{<‘~ ~ A a 'gl‘gfigcné'yr,’ ‘ 2 "“1 ‘ ‘- ~.s‘.<. , ,1. e“, We» {3); 'J,» ‘- 3’3;- ‘ \2' 3. ' Va! aqu¢altk .n‘- ...., 2 - In v; \‘A 2,25 (955‘s T.3gfi£‘§$v\.\f?\£é&=é 25 :- “ox“x—“mi—“Vxfiv—Vf «\‘TT—mJ {argf ‘2 ‘ .2;- %%f “Fifi“; ‘P’r‘vf‘ 13‘. "‘5” WVWQ." 2. _ , I |.- _ QflrA‘ A ‘ “ .‘8__ r' ‘ra}$§_<:’§x\§si\_g§§gk\;- \fi \ fiskwyw «A: a“; 2 :2 RR . ~_. ‘ ‘_ L , '\ » Y-‘*-"_ _l‘qflm-m nun mmm-rn nan .. V; 7"“. 2.‘fi—‘_‘*' ' ”"—‘ ““2 W [:3_‘_" _LONDON, AS IT ISIS-Du: \. ‘ \ii-Z‘ , ‘- WHERE TO GO ANDQWHAT TO SEE. ' A HAND—BOOK'GUIDE FOR VISITORS WITH UPWARDS OF TWO HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS ON WOOI BI Prior She herd Delmnotte Gil/rs Bismn'm' and other Eminent llrlists. u , p ’ 2 7 C , LONDON : H. G. CLARKE AND CO., 252, STRAND. . ‘5». —_ MDCCCLVI. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE slenera] Descriptjnn of London " . . 9 l CHAPTER II. Virections to the Principal Lines of Streets . , 21 CHAPTER III. » c geligious Edifices . c , .. . . . . l7 . CHAPTER IV. [loyal Palaces and Mansions of the Nobility . . .;~., 85 l: ‘ a - CHAPTER V. l'he Public Parks and Gardens . . . . 101 CHAPTER VI. #gislative and Legal Establishments 7 . . 122 l ’ ‘4‘ CHAPTER VII the Government Offices . . . . 146 CHAPTEzEfig’VIII. . ‘ ”ercial Edifices . 159 CHAPTER IX. The Port of London and the Docks CHAPTER X. The Thames, the Tunnel, and the Bridges CHAPTER XI. The Monument and the Public Statues CHAPTER XII. The Theatres and Music . . CHAPTER XIII. The Museums and Galleries of Art . CHAPTER XIV. Miscellaneous Exhibitions CHAPTER XV. The Tower and the Royal Hospitals CHAPTER XVI. The Hospitals and Charitable Institutions CHAPTER XVII. Exeter Hall and the May Meetings CHAPTER XVIII. Educational and Scientific Institutions CHAPTER XIX. The City Halls PAGI 13: 193 29211 CONTENTS. .. CHAPTER XX. The Police and Prisons . CHAPTER XXI. The Bazaars and Arcades . . | CHAPTER XXII. I The Markets CHAPTER XXIIF. Hotel and Tavern Accommodation CHA PTER XXIV. The Club Houses . CHAPTER XXV. The Insurance Ofiices CHAPTER XXVI. The Railway Termini CH A PTER XXVII. London Trading Establishments . CHAPTER XXVIII. The Metropolitan Cemeteries . . 317 328 331 341 350 ' 364 371 382 LONDON CHAPTER I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LONDON. LONDON—Opulent, enlarged, and still \ Increasing LONDON! Babylon of Old 3 Not more the glory of the earth than she, , A more accomplished World’s chief glorynom—C'owper. — LONDON, “ BUSY, CLAMOROUS, CnOw‘DED, IMPERIAL LONDON,” {may be considered not merely as the capital of England, or of the EBritish Empire, but as thefmetropolis of the civilised world—not {merely as the seat of Government, which extends its connections and rexercises its influence to the remotest point of the earth’s surface—not finerely as containing the wealth and the; machinery by Which the Efreedom and the slavery of nations are bought and sold—not merely as possessing a freedom of opinion, and a hardihood in the expression 33f that opinion, unknown to every other city—not merely in taking {the lead in every informing science, and in every useful and embel- .glishing art—but as being foremost, and without a. rival, in every {means of aggrandisement, and enjoyment of everything that can srender life sweet and man happy. Within a circumference, the radius Lbf which does not exceed five miles, there are never fewer than a gmillion and a half of human beings; and if the great bell of St. {Paul’s were swung to the full pitch of its tocsin sound, more ears isvould hear it than could hear the loudest roaring of Etna and Vesu- ‘ivius. If we take our station in the ball or upper gallery of that {great edifice, the wide horizon, crowded as it is with men and their flwellings, forms a panorama Of industry and of life more astonishing [than could be gazed upon from any other point in the universe. It is We the abode of intelligence and industry, the centre of trade and mommerce, the resort Of the learned and inquiring, the spot that has Tgiven birth to and where have flourished the greatest kings, statesmen, brators, divines, lawyers, warriors, poets, paintéis, and musicians; be- ' ' es historians who have immortalised them. It is the refuge of the ' ppressed, the poor, and the neglected; the asylum of the unfortunate r the afflicted :7 and the abiding-place of him who wishes to advance 10 LONDON. his fortune, or further his progress in the arts, sciences, literature, or any pursuit that ennobles man and dignifies his nature. ondon has not only been the birth-place of genius, but those when have possessed its brightest rays have repaired to a spot where their. worth has been sure of appreciation and reward. Here the poet has sung his sweetest strains, the historian produced his most authentic. record, the philosopher made his most elaborate research, and commu-: nicated its satisfactory results. Here has dwelt a Pope, a Hume, 3 Bacon, a. Locke, and a Priestley. Here 8 Milton produced the sub». limest of all compositions: here also a Shakespere portrayed the passions, in all their various moods; and a. Garrick gave them life ant - a startling reality. Here, too, Newton found opportunity to explor ' and lay open the deepest mysteries of nature ; while the glowing—,1 canvass of a Hogarth gives a present existence to scenes long since~ departed. 1; London, considered in the aggregate, comprises the City am. i.- liberties, the City of Westminster, the Tower Hamlets, and the: Boroughs of Finsbury, Marylebone, Southwark, and Lambeth, withr their respective suburbs; besides many villages in Middlesex and‘: Surrey, which, though originally distinct, now form integral portions: of the great capital of the British Empire. The Cities of London and \Vestminster are situated on a gentle aseen on the north and west sides of the Thames, about sixty miles, rm sured by the course of the river, above its discharge into the sea; anut the Boroughs of Southwark and Lambeth on the south and east, or- ‘ a level, and once marshy ground; both divisions being joined by seven .: noble bridges. . The Thames, which rises in Gloucestershire, runs nearly west an; east from Charing Cross as far as the port ; whilst a bend in its COUI‘SL at Lambeth, carries it nearly north; there is an eighth, or westcrl; bridge, connecting Chelsea with Battersea. The north, or Middlesex side, contains about 180,000 houses, and 1,500,000 inhabitants. The Southwark side contains 70,000 houses, and 700,000 inhabitant Hence the total is 250,000 houses, and 2,100,000 inhabitants, besid. 100,000 strangers. The Thames is 310 yards wide at London Bridge; and 400 yards a Waterloo Bridge. The tide flows about fifteen miles, by the rivet course, above London Bridge; and, as far as the Custom House, ft three or four miles, it is filled with ships at anchor, or moored to chain. besides collateral docks. The metropolis extends east and west from Bow to Hammersmi a distance of eleven miles; and north and south, from Holloway Stockwell, six miles. The whole may be considered as egg-shape the east, or Greenwich and Stratford end, being round and bro while the west end terminates in a point, at Kensington; the circu‘ ference of the whole being thirty miles. On the south side it cxter from Battersea. to Greenwich, a distance of seven miles. Several populous villages, equal in extent to many cities and coun towns, are not included in these statements, viz; ampstead, Hi \‘gate, Hackney, Clapham, \Vandsworth Flilham, 8:0. GENERAL DESCRIPTION or LONDON. 11 Indeed London is now not merely the largest city in the known woflid, but it exceeds imopulence, splendour, and luxury (perhaps in misfgry), all that ever was recorded of any city. Indeed, it may be safely affirmed to be the largest congregate mass of human life, arts, scies‘nce, wealth, power, and architectural splendour, that exists; 'or in 21111 031'; all these particulars that ever have existed within the known ann als of mankind. It should be recollected that the power of some allcient cities—even of Rome herself—was relatively, but not posi- tivfile greater; and that ancient populations have been enormously exaggerated. The only antique superiority well attested, is that of architecture and sculpture. It has been called the Modern Babylon ; butt Babylon resembled it only in the oriental imaginations of ancient WI.{iters; and Thebes, Nineveh, and Rome, merely in the appendages of l despotism. London is equal in extent to any three or four other E1 jlropean capitals united; and superior to thirty of the largest towns in ”the United Kingdom, if brought together. It would require sixty cit ies as large as Exeter, or‘534 towns as large as Huntingdon, to 3., ke another metropolis; and it is computed that a population equal . t; that of Salisbury is added to London every three months. , Its distance from the principal cities of Europe is as follows: ff om Edinburgh 395 miles, south; from Dublin 338 miles, south-east; 5 rom Paris 225 miles, north-north-east; from Amsterdam 190 miles, fest ; from Copenhagen 610 miles, north-west; from Stockholm 750 fiiles, south-west; from St. Petersburgh 1,140 miles, south-west ; E'om Moscow 1,660 miles, east-south-east -,from Berlin 540 miles, west; 'om Vienna 820 miles, north-west; from Constantinople 1,660 miles, In (orth-west; from Rome 950 miles, north—north—west; from Madrid 8 1:60 miles, north-north-east ; fr'om Lisbon 850 miles, north-north-east. l .t is also distant from Bristol118, from York 196, and from Oxford 5&6 miles. In latitude 51 deg. 32 min., and St. Paul’s is 5 sec. west 0 3f the first geographical meridian of Greenwich Observatory. -i The objects which demand the especial notice of visitors in London [it-nay now be briefly noticed. G J l THE METROPOLIS ITSELF. Its vastness is a wonder. To judge of, and duly to feel it, the visitor should walk from Hyde Park Corner, along Piccadilly, turn down St. J ames’s Street, and continue along Pall Mall, by Charing Cross, the Strand, Fleet Street, Ludgate Hill, St. Paul’s, Cheapside, the Poultry, Lombard Street, and F enchurch Street, to Whitechapel Church; thence return by Leadenhall Street, Cornhill, N ewgate Street, Holborn, and Oxford Street, to Paddington. This will be a walk or ride of about nine miles, through the heart of the metropolis. He may afterwards make himself another circuit, by passing from Charing Cross, southward, crossing Westminster Bridge, passing the Obelisk, and reach London Bridge, by the Borough. Bishopsgate Street Will conduct him to Shoreditch Chi-gob, and turning short to :he left, he may return to Charing Cross, by the City Road, Penton- , Jille, New Road, Edgeware Road, Park Lane. Grosvenor Place 1 2 LONDON. Pimlico, and \Vestminster Abbey. This will be a route of ten‘ or twelve miles, about two miles from the centre of the ellipse, and abcmt an average mile from the extremities of the mass of the metropolis. These routes may be effected in two mornings. They will convey. competent notion of the vastness and extent of London; and it 55, be observed, that there are many natives, who have not themsel 46’s seen so much of the place in which they have passed their lives. I London, like every ellipse, has two centres; Charing Cross is Olne to the west; and the Royal Exchange is the other to the east; mild these are nearly two miles assunder. ’ 8 GREAT DIVISIONS OF LONDON. The banks of the Thames, below London Bridge, on both side?S constitute the Port; and present the bustle of import and export i1; 7,000 vessels, which enter inwards annually. In this portion of thin.“ river is the Pool, where the colliers and other vessels lie at anchoxfu.o near to which are the numerous spacious docks; and connecting th 0 two shores, beneath the bed of the river, is that triumph of enginee {1 ing skill—the Thames Tunnel. If] \Vestward of London Bridge, the‘banks of the river are coveret ‘ 5 with wharfs, for coal, timber. iron. provisions, and other commodities 3““ whilst on its surface float innumerable vessels, from the heavily ladei: of? coal barge, to the light and gaily decorated wherry, which with thGVCf constant passing and re-passing of the river steamers, give life am I animation to the scene. ‘3 Eastward of the Royal Exchange is the great mart of trade antui commerce; and near Houndsditch is the quarter of the Jews. Ir,“t Mark Lane, and near it are the Coal and Corn Exchanges, conducted t chieflv by Quakers. Billingsgate (anciently Belen Gate) is the largestez Fish Market in the world; and in its vicinity is the spacious Custon House, and the Monument. ‘- The Tower, venerable for its antiquity, once the bulwark of London, and alternately the residence or the prison of the sovereigns of England for more than a thousand years, is in the midst of this modern seat of commerce. In the immediate vicinitv is the Mint, the Trinity House, and the Station of the Blackwall Railway. ‘ The Royal Exchange, in its way without a parallel, is surrounded by the Bank of England, the Stock Exchange, the Mansion House, the principal Insurance Offices, and Lombard Street, the emporium of banking and of the circulating medium. In the immediate neigh- bourhood will be found the East India House, the Guildhall, the \Vesleyan Centenary Hall, and Sir Christopher \Vren’s beautiful’_ Church of St. Stephen’s, \Valbrook. up The City, which begins at Aldgate, and ends at Temple Bar and3 at Middle Row, Holborn, with St. Paul's in its centre, is a general scene of activity and bustle, of hopes and fears. of griping wealth, and n anxious indigence. “’ithiu a short distance of St. Paul’s, is situated’ i GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LONDON. “13 the Post Office, the Money Order Office, St. Paul’s School, Doctors’ Commons, the Herald’s College, the Central Criminal Court, and N ew- .gate, in front of which public executions still take place. The Inner and Middle Temple, the great seat of the lawyers, in the ")recincts of which is situated the Temple Church, are on the south «ide of Fleet Street, and at its extremity, separating the cities of :..ondon and Westminster, stands — -. .& Vt- - A . n ’- ' ‘£"§i’=3=—._:£§& TEMPLE. BAR, -' only one of the city boundaries now remaining. This ancient built after the Great Fire, by Sir Christopher Wren, from its -.tion, has become one of the chief land-marks of the metropolis. 'ath its postcrn passes nearly every Visitor to London, whether for .--ess or pleasure; and it therefore enjoys a. renown far greater its antiquity or architecture would otherwise command. It is "of Portland stone, of the Corinthian order, having a rusticated- sient. Over the gateway, on the east side, in two niches, are s of Queen Elizabeth, and James I., with the royal arms over the am; and on the west side are statues of Charles I. and IL, in :1 habits, the work of John Bushnell. rstward of Temple Bar, the same pursuits prevail, but on a r 1‘ scale: and midway between this seat of industry and fashion, ‘. theatres of Drury Lane and Covent Garden. ther westward, from the meridian of Charing Cross and Tot- i. Court Road, lie the squares and streets of the nobility and ; and of the opulent citizens who affect rank; their residences antersectcd with lines of trading streets for {their service and .odation. " more westward lie the Parks, called by Mr. Windham, and n by others, from the felicityof the expression, “ the lungs of .uai 14 Losnox. London,” for the exercise and recreation of all within their reach; :' these are St. James's, in which are situated the two Royal palaces. St. James's and Buckingham Palaces; and its adjurct, the Green Park; Hyde Park, in which in 1851, stood the Crystal Palace, for the reception of the world’s Industry: and Kensington Gardens; angina the north-west the Regent’s Park, bounded by Primrose Hill, no"~ the property of the Public. . . It may be added, that, north of the east-end, resrde the mec .mcss and manufacturers, as the silk weavers in Spitalfields, and the “ 2h-- makers in Clerkenwell; and that the Victoria Park has been rectiitly opened for the recreation and enjoyment of those densely populated i. districts. North of the centre live the lawyers and middle class ofi. wealthy traders. ' . . Such is London, with reference to the pursuits of its inhabitants. London has no boulevards, like the continental cities; but untill recently it had a circuit of roads, now, however, rapidly becoming; streets, and lost. as roads in the mass of the metropolis, as the City Road, New Road, Kent Road. Camberwell Road, Vauxhall Road, &c.; :35 IT‘S '1 . —— gnaw,“ ... LANDMARKS OF THE METROPOLIS. gym. Complicated as may appear the seeming maze of London, yet it 135-, easy for the stranger to form a mental clue to guide him through ag its 'intricacies, by committing to memory the names of its chi ‘3 highways, in each pomt of the compass. From these. radiate crossg lines of streets, connecting the main thoroughfares with each other“. and interlaced with every locality sought to be traversed. f, In proceeding from place to place, the public buildings and muig. objects in the principal streets, greatly facilitate a knowledge of t c, locality; and it is not easy for the stranger to stray far from thgl beaten path, on his road from Mile End to C‘haring Cross, and thgi \Vest End. when he recollects that on his left are all the Bridgw“; and on his way he passes the East India House, the Royal Exchan J the Mansion House, St. Paul’s, Temple Bar, Somerset House, Charin, Cross, Nelson’s Column, Her )Iaicsty’s Theatre, the Club Hons Regent Street, and Piccadilly, at the extremity of which is ' \Vellingtou Statue, and the entrance to Hyde Park. THE MILITARY FORCE IN LONDON. The military strength of the metropolis consists of the First an Second regiments of Life Guards, the Royal Horse Guards B1. and the three Household regiments of Foot. For their reception an" quarters, the following are the Barracks provided: for the caval I the Barracks at Knightsbridge, and the Barracks in Albany St!"- Regent’s Park. There is also at lxcnsington a Barracks for or_ _.e GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LONDON. 15 Light Dragoons, detached for escort and piquet duty, from what- 'ster regiment is stationed at Hounslow, ten miles distant. The r‘iz‘rracks for infantry, are those called the “’ellington Barracks, in the : fIId Cage Walk; the Charing Cross Barracks, at the rear of the N a- icé'al Gallery; the Barracks in Portman Square ; the St. John’s Wood *( rracks; and the Waterloo Barracks, in the Tower. . .. . rCity of London raises its regiments of Militia, and has besides :5 \ ”f'nteer Corps, known as the Honourable Artillery Company. '1 ‘ ""dy is about four hundred strong, and its ranks are filled by 1,1 pégaen resident in, or connected with the city. H.R.H. Prince yfo‘l‘lgl‘l‘ds the Colonel in Chief; and the Hon. Henry Fitzroy, M.P., ae igieutenant Colonel. The spacious exercise ground, in Bunhill ww, Finsbury, is a favourite and\much frequented promenade. THE CLIMATE AND SOIL OF THE METROPOLIS. [The climate of .London is temperate, but variable, and indined to iéoisture. The average temperature is 51 dgs. 9 min., alfthough it t’iries from 20 dgs. to 81 dgs: the most severe cold usually occurring f. January, and the greatest heat in July. Particular instances, how- Fer, of extreme cold and heat are occasionally Observed : in January, €95, the mercury in F ahrenheit’s thermometer sunk to 38 dgs. below ee freezing point; and in July, 1808, rose to 94 dgs. in the shade. ‘I The general substratum of the metropolis and its vicinity is clay, trance called “London clay,” the most considerable of the tertiary armation of Great Britain: and to the abundance of clay, and the icility of making bricks, a part of the rapid increase of buildings Cay probably be attributed. . COMMANDING VIEWS OF THE METROPOLIS. lThe vast extent, the dense atmosphere, and even the locality of tendon, exclude a grand coup-d’azil from any one place: but com- tanding views of the metropolis may be obtained from Hampstead aeath, Muswell Hill, Hornsey, Greenwich Park, Forest Hill, Putney Dmmon, and Primrose Hill. l'l‘hese points of examination are strongly recommended to the sreign or native visitor of London. IThat which most powerfully excites surprise in a visitor from any istant part of England, is the endless succession of lofty and well- fiilt streets, with every external mark of comfif’gt and opulence. Few rovincial towns possess more than a dozen such streets, and those of eregular house i of which there are hundreds in London, uniformly fiual to the few best in a provincial town. How the parties live is .3, 16 LONDON. the first quesnon, and how they pay such enormously high rents and; taxes is the second. If he then proceeds through the lines of streets of spacious private: dwellings, and the magnificent squares, at the west-end, the whole appears an incomprehensible riddle. It is this, chiefly, that renders London the wonder of the world. The solution of the enigma is this—London is the centre 0" . wealth of the vast British Empire in the four quarters of the ‘ arms 9 It was once the centre only of England; it is now, however, 11' :h' ' the centre of Great Britain and Ireland, but of the East anc‘mly ', Indies, and the home of British Colonists in all parts of the “\ulated F Added to which, London is the seat of the funded system, the ibeus; of law and power, the entrepot and mart of the industry of the nation; and of the produce of the whole earth. From these, half the popula—. tion derive their subsistence; and on this half, the other half contrivea‘ or endeavour to live. i It is this last portion of so vast a population which gives rise to; what are called the vices of the metropolis. The difficulty of findings} means of subsistence, from the superabundance of labour, and thei- constant accession of new adventurers from the country, beget those? sharp practices of which strangers are not unfrequently the dupes. .r: Three-fourths of the metropolis, on the other hand, are wealthy in pro-=4 perty, or in the results of industry; and among these there existsgér as much virtue, and as excellent social habits, as are elsewhere to bee found, in any population or any country. Such LONDON is, by taste and wealth proclaimed, The fairest capital 1n all the world—Cowper. PRINCIPAL LINES or STREETS. 17 CHAPTER II. ‘ DIRECTIONS TO THE PRINCIPAL LINES 0F STREETS. I began to study the map of London, though dismayed at the sight of its Iiodigious extent. The river is no assistance to a stranger in finding his way. .élere is no street along its banks, and no eminence from whence you can look jamnd and take your bearings—Southey. \ qWOMTHSTMDING the vast size of London, there are few cities (rough which it is easier to find a desired route, by attending to a iv leading points of direction. Persons coming from the north and fist of England are placed by the railways in close contact with the :{sat thoroughfarepf the New Road, which runs from Paddington to t: Bank, and from this there are several leading thoroughfares :xich communicate with the important line of streets which intersects hdon from west to east. This intersecting line may be considered q principal standard of direction for that part of London situated on :2 north of the Thames. Beginning at the west it may be described aconsisting of Bayswater Road, Oxford Street, Holhorn, Holborn i1, Newgate Street, Cheapside, the Poultry, Cornhill, Leadenhall éeet, and \Vhitechapel Road; a little further to the south are con- iging lines, having a slight degree of parallelism, which join the in line at the two extremities of Cheapside. The western subsidiary t consist of Piccadilly, part of Waterloo Place, Pall Mall east, the and, Fleet Street, and Ludgate Hill; joining Cheapside through é‘Paul’s Churchyard, and also offering an avenue to the wharfs, the asks, and the Tower, through Watling Street, Eastcheap, and Great tater Street. At the eastern extremity of Cheapside, a line diverges (London Bridge, (on the Surrey side of which is the Terminus of the ’ghton, Dover, and North Kent Railway) through King William iet. she lines that cross these longitudinal courses of streets, from north muth, are not so distinct or direct as those from east to west, which nave just described. We shall notice the most important; begin- ir, as before, at the extreme north-west. Near the Paddington tion of the Great Western Railway is the Edgeware Road, which h"- the New Road with the western extremity of Oxford Street, Kthus places strangers on what we have described as the great in- acting line of the metropolis; and this line may be continued to {tPiccadilly line, divergent through Hyde Park, or Park Lane, 3511 are very nearly direct,continuations of the Edgeware Road. a other lines of communication, between trill: New Road and 5rd Street, are Gloucester Place, continued through Park Street liccadilly; Baker Street, continued through Audley Street to 18 LONDON. Piccadilly; and at the north side of the New Road, forming the chieti line of connection with the west side of the Regent’s Park, and that suburban district of St. John’s Wood. \Vimpole Street, or Harley_‘_ Street, connected with the Piccadilly divergent through New Bond Street, and Portland Place, which fronts the Regent’s Park, and- through Regent’s Street, connects Oxford Street with Piccadilly, Pale Mall, and St. J ames's Park, from which it is easy to find the way to. Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament,» and the principal Offices of Government. And after having passed the Park, and Portland Place, pursuing the road to the city, the next: "great line leading to the south is Tottenham Court Road, a very im-x portant thoroughfare, because on its north side it communicates with the great line of road leading to Camden Town, Kentish Town, Hamp—f stead, and Highgate; and on its south side it joins the great inter-1 secting line at the point of junction between Oxford Street and New: Oxford Street. From this point there are two lines of communicatiom with the Strand; one through Bloomsbury Street, the Seven Dials; and St. Martin’s Lane, which leads to Charing Cross; and the othens.‘ through a new opening called Endell Street, continued in front or: Covent Garden Theatre, through Bow Street, Charles Street, antiu Wellington Street, into the Strand, opposite \Vaterloo Bridge. Nearly?) parallel with Tottenham Court Road is the line of Gower Street, which is not open for carriages, being stopped by a gate in front of the LOU-I don University; and between this and King’s Cross there are several: indirect lines leading to Holborn, through Russell and Bloomsbury; Squares. The New Road passes through the centre of Euston Squarega on the north side of which is the Terminus of the North-western Railsl way. Those passengers who, on their arrival at this station, wish to: go to the west-end, will find theirvarious routes already recorded in: this paragraph. Continuing the line of the New Road, we reachi King’s Cross, where will be the Terminus of the Great Northern Railoi way, from which there is a divergent line north-westwards, by the: Pancras Road to the eastern side of Camden Town, and a communist cation with the middle of Holborn by Gray’s Inn Lane : the New Road: is continued over Pentonville Hill to the Angel at Islington, from: whence there are lines of communication to the west-end of Newgata: Street, by St. John Street and Smithfield; and to the east-end byg Goswell Street. and Aldersgate Street. The New Road, from Islingtona takes the name of the City Road, and leads direct to the Bank. Tqi the Bank also converge the north-eastern lines of communication, by}; Shoreditch (in which is the Terminus of the Eastern Counties Railil way) and Bishopsgate Street, by Mile End and \Vhitechapel ; and théi t eastern line by the Mile End Road. ~ The portion of London on the south side of the Thames presentéi more intelligible lines of communication, and much more easilv re-ai membered than those we have just described. The great Roads 'fro L'M the principal bridges converge at the obelisk in St. George’s Fields, maybe described as radiating from the obelisk to the bridges. Takin- the former arrangement, we may state that Bridge Street and \Ves ‘5 minster Road lead from Westminster Bridge to the Obelisk; “'aterl f Road, from Waterloo Bridge tc the Obelisk; Blackfriars’ Road, fro PRINCIPAL LINES 0F STREETS. 19 lBlackfriars’ Bridge to the Obelisk; Bridge Street, from Southwark Bridge to the Obelisk; High Street and Blackman Street, from {London Bridge to the Obelisk. '3 To facilitate the stranger’s acquisition of a knowledge of the locali- aies of London, it may be well to point out some remarkable spots {vhich ought to have their situations impressed upon the memory, so is to make them centres to which other directions may easily be tteferred. i» The north, or Tyburn end of Hyde Park, stands at the extreme of rlvhat we have described as the great intersecting line of the metro- polis; it communicates with the western suburbs by Bayswater, with she northern by the Edgeware Road, with the divergent line of vi’iccadilly through Hyde Park, and opens the extreme line of commu- ILication which runs completely across the city, through Oxford Street. I' The southern extremity of Hyde Park communicates through Gros- iaenor Street, and Wilton Street, with the fashionable squares and vitreets of Belgravia; through Sloane Street, with Chelsea; and through sihe old \Vestern Road, with Brompton, Knightsbridge, Hammersmith, slew, and Richmond; it commences what we have termed the divergent if the great intersectional line, with which the Piccadilly line-unites l-Zl St. Paul’s Churchyard, where it joins Cheapside. l i‘ Trafalgar Square, or Charing Cross, is about the middle of this di- rerging line; the Piccadilly portion of the line coming into it from she west, and the Strand continuing it towards the east.- Through nt. Martin’s Lane there is a direct communication with Holborn, and she northern parts of London; and through Charing ross and Par- .Ltament Street, the great thoroughfare of WVestminster passes, leading Io IVhitehall, Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament, and the hrincipal offices of Government. The National Gallery, and the .i-rincipal club houses are in the immediate neighbourhood. Welling- non Street, which crosses the Strand about the middle, is a place that aeserves to be noted. Its northern part leads to Covent Garden vrf‘heatre, and, by a slight deviation, to Drury Lane Theatre: and shenee, from Bow Street, through Endell Street, to New Oxford street and the British Museum. The southern portion of Wellingtox 'Iitreet leads over Waterloo Bridge to Southwark and Lambeth. II she Waterloo Road is the Terminus of the South-Western Railway, (rem which are frequent trains to Kew Gardens, Richmond, Hampton Inlourt, and Windsor. In the immediate vicinity are Exeter Hall, Where the meetings of the various religious and charitable societies ere usually held; and Somerset House, divided between several mientific bodies and various Offices of Government. P Temple Bar is erected at the point of union between the Strand and fleet Street, and separates the cities of London and VVestminstt-r. at the end of Fleet Street, the communication northwards with dolborn is through Chancery Lane, which leads to Lincoln’s Inn and ene new Chancery Courts, and terminates in Holborn, opposite Gray’s Inn. On the south side of this part of F lcet Street is the Temple; ind a little further to the east is another line .Li.‘ communication with blolborn, through Fetter Lane. ‘ i7 St. Paul’s Churchyard, byg‘some called the lungs of London, is a 20 LONDON. central point of some importance to those who wish to acquire: knowledge of the localities and directions of the city. It is enter? from the west by Ludgate Hill. There is no passage for carriages 5 the north side of the church; but this side has many attractions :- visitors, since here, and in the adjoining streets, such as Paternosze Row, Amen Corner, Ave Maria Lane, is the great mart for the lite], ture of the empire. Stationers’ Hall is placed in a small court, 4 which there is an entrance from Ludgate Hill. Carriages go row: the church on the south side, and passing VVatling Street, come ini the great trunk line of intersection at the point of junction betweez Newgate Street and Cheapside. At the north side of this junctii: is the General Post Office and Money Order Office, from which Alder; gate Street, continued by Goswell Street, leads direct to the N a? Road and Islington. The Bank and Royal Exchange form the grand central point meeting for the great majority of the London Omnibuses; and con veyances may be had from thence in these veichles to almost any pan of the city or suburbs. Turning from these magnificent building-t down King William Street, we reach London Bridge. Eastward of London Bridge is the course of the way to the Town and the Docks. Thames Street, which is intersected by the dry arc: of the bridge, runs east and west, parallel to the river, with which'a communicates by various small streets and lanes, leading to the wharf? The greater part of the traffic between London and the south-eastern part of England, passes over London Bridge. At its southern extremitgl is the Terminus of the Brighton, Dover, North Kent, and Greenwich Railways. The Tunnel recently constructed under the Thames is rather less than two miles lower down the river than London Bridge. A3 the northeastern side of the bridge is a range of wharfs, where pas: sengers embark in the principal steamers for Greenwich, W oolwichl Gravesend or for distant ports. There is probably no part of the me: tropolis which will give strangers so complete a notion of the business and bustle of London as this bridge and the localities in its immediatd neighbourhood. We have already mentioned that the best points of guidance for: the portion of London south of the Thames, are the bridges and the: obelisk. We recommend strangers to study the lines of communica-I tion and the points of direction we have indicated on any good map: of London ; and when they have done so, we are persuaded that they; will have no difficulty in finding their way to any locality that they: may desire. ' RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 21 CHAPTER III. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. This City Queen—this-peerless mass Of pillar’d Demos, and grey-worn Towers sublime—Montgmnery. le‘HE religious edifices of London have the most prominent and ' pos- ‘ng Share in its architectiu'al splendour, and from their vast number :‘nust interest and surprise the casual visitor; they are, therefore, par— 1 Iicularly deserving of notice. 1‘ The places of public worship amount to upwards of seven hundred, at which there are three hundred and forty episcopal churches and ' hapels: twenty are appropriated to the Roman catholics; fourteen to whe worship of foreign protestants; and three hundred and seventy to able different sects of protestant dissenters. To complete the enumera- [ '011 of the religious buildings in London, it may be added that there -re eight synagogues for the Jews. it; Of these it can only be necessary here to call the attention of strangers to those which, by their size or beauty, distinguish the Metropolis; or by some striking peculiarity are calculated to awaken s, riosity. Those grand national structures—the Cathedral Church of at. Paul, and the Abbey Church of St. Peter, \Vestminster—first demand our attention. ‘ ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. I From its vast dimensmns, great height, and commanding position— [Ii an eminence north of the Thames—St. Paul’s Cathedral may be Iigarded as the most conspicuous edifice in the metropolis, while its i'chiteetural merits render it one of the most magnificent. The an- tent Gothic cathedral, which originally stood in majestic pomp on the {mic spot, and so eloquently described by Dugdale and Hollar, was mstroyed in the great fire of London, in 1666, when the erection of 1:0 present building was entrusted to Sir Christopher Wren, under ghose direction it was completed in 1715. @111 1673, \Vren commenced preparations for the ’new building, and Ebmitted valious designs for the inspection of the king and the com- gssioners. He also made the beautiful model, which is still preserved ‘ an apartment over the Morning Pra er chapel of the cathedral. ’ ' plan was deservedly a favourite wit its author, and is in many ' .C 22 LONDON respects superior to the one that is executed. The present one is saio '1 to have been constructed on the Roman Catholic cathedral planj through the influence of the king’s brother, James, Duke of York, after! wards James IL, who wished to have it ready for the revival of th-1 Popish service, on his accession to the throne. The architect, it is said shed tears at its rejection, and complied with the royal mandate witlfi evident regret. On the 12th of November, 1673, ‘Vren received the appointment 0vi architect to, and one of the commissioners for the re e-building of the cathedral chuich of St. Paul. 111 the beginning of 1675, the work" were commenced and his skilful and scientific mason, Thomas Strong- made his first contract with the commissioners. By the end of th' year the designs were app1oved, received the signature of the king; and the connnissione1s; and the architect was allowed to make such] variations and 1111plove1ne11ts as he pleased. 'lhe w 01k ot destloving till; ruins of the ancient structure 11 as also commenced, first by exploodinc with gunpowder, then by the use of the batte11ncr-ram. WEST FRONT OF ST. PAUL’S. The first stone of the new cathedral was laid 011 the 21st of J une; 1675, by the architect and his lodge of freemasons. The trowel and. mallet used 011 this occasion, are still p1escrvcd in the Lodge of .‘\n‘,‘] tiquity, of which Sir Christopher was Master. In 1678, Gompton'l Bishop of London, 1s sued an add1ess, exl1o1ting all persons to con: tribute with liberality towards this national undertaking, and his ex : hortation \\ as eminently successful. . In 1678 the '11 chitect set out the piers and pendentives of the grea ,. eupola, when the oft- told incident occu11ed ot his accidentally using fragment of a tombstone, w ith the word “resurg am’ ’inscribed upon :)it i After the death of Cha11es 11., his successor James 11. issued a nex commission to continue the works, dated February 61h, 168-}, that o RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. Lo Charles having become void by his death. In this instrument the name of the architect was introduced, as before, and the works pro- ceeded with unabated activ1ty. By the latter end of April, 1686, the "walls of the choir, with its. aisles, being 170 feet long, and 120 feet bread, with the stupendous arched vaults of its crypt were finished, as also the new chapter-house and vestries. The two beautiful circular 1 portieoes 0f the transepts, which are among the masterpieces of mo- dern architecture, were also brought to the same height and were all 1 built of large blocks of Portland stone. , In June, 1688, the memorable year of the revolution, the building of {the cathedral had advanced so far, that the commissioners announced that they had contracted for the timber for roofing the aisles of the Choir, which were now ready to receive them. The choir was reported .to be finished in 1694, as far as the stone work, and the scaffolding was struck. In the course of the following year, Wren published his friend Robert Bayle’s Discourse against customary Swearing, and affixed an order from himself and his brother commissioners, figainst such an abuse of language by the workmen employed in and about St. Paul’s. ()n the 2nd of December, 1696, the choir of the new cathedral was opened for divine service on the day of the public thanksgiving for the peace of ItySwick, and the Bishop of Salisbury (Gilbert Burnet) preached before the king and a numerous court. On February 1, 1699, the beautiful chapel at the north-west por- tion of the cathedral, now called and used as the Morning Prayer Chapel, was opened for divine service, with appropriate ceremony, and in 1708 the general works of the cathedral had proceeded so near to- wards completion, that on the 23rd_February of that year, Sir Humphrey Mackworth, brought up from the committee to the House of Commons, a report as to the covering of the cupola, and laid several estimates for it before the House of Commons. In 1710, when Sir Christopher had attained the 78th year of his age, the highest or last stone of the lan- tern upon the cupola was laid by his eldest son, Christopher, attended .by their Lodge of Freemasons, with due ceremony. And thus was this noble fabric, lofty enough to be seen at sea eastward, and at Windsor to the west, begun and completed in the space of thirty—five years, by one architect, the great Sir Christopher Wren; one principal mason, Mr. Strong; and under one bishop of London, Dr. Henry Compton: whereas, St. Peter’s at Rome, the only structure that can come in competition with it, continued one hundred and fifty-five years in building, under nineteen popes, by twelve successive architects, including Bramante, Raphael, and Michael Angelo, assisted by the Police and interests of the Roman see. In this vear the celebrated controversy began, about the frauds and abuses at bt. Paul’s, over which Life architect so completely triumphed, and in 1718, in the 86th year of his age, and in the 49th of his office as Surveyor-General of the Public Buildings, was this great man dis— placed from his office to make room for an intriguer of the name of Benson, who has been consigned by'Pope to the most distinguished honours of the Dunciad. The cathedral was left almost untouched till tne reign of George III., 21 LONDON when Mr. Robert Mylne was appomted its conservating architect, and since then C. R. Cockerell, Esq., R.A., has succeeded to that im- portant office, which he now holds, and who so scientifically restored the ball and cross in 1822. The principal entrance or front, which looks westward, is extremely noble, it is adorned with a rich and beautiful portico, consisting of twelve lofty Corinthian columns, above 11lnch are eight columns of the (omposite order, ranged in pairs, supporting a triangular pediment, the entablature of wliich 1epresents the Conversion of DSt. Paulgs sculp- tured by Bird, in low reliefi On the apex of the pediment IS a colossal figuic of St. Paul, with two of equal size at each end. repicsenting St. Peter and St. James, 1 and along the summit of the front me similar statues of the four Evangelists. The whole rests on an ele- vated base, the ascent to which is formed by twenty-two steps of black marble. The angles are surmounted by two elegant turrets, of a chaste and uniform character. each terminating in a dome, ornamented with a gilt pine- apple: the south turret contains the clock, the north t1111'et the belfrey. The marble statue in front of the portico, and facing Ludgate Street, represents Queen Anne, in her iobcs of state, holdin:r in her hands tlic emblems ot 1'0) alty, and accompanied by fig1n'es re- presenting Great Britain, Ireland, France, and America. It was ' executed by Francis Bird. There are two other entrances to the body of the church, facing north and south, at each end of the principal transept. They corres- pond in their architecture, which consists of a semicircular portico. of the Corinthian order, surrounded by statues of the Apostles. The t1'1npanu1n of the north entrance exhibits 1m- 1'nval arms and 1egali:.1 supported bv angels; and that of the south anti a1-ce, aphoenix rising from the flaines, z:the wo1k of Gabriel Cibbez '11 “lusion to the recon- s11 uttion of the cathedral after the conflagration The east end of the church is semicircular; it is ornamented with a variety of fine sculpture, particularly the cipher \V. R. within a com— partment of palm branches surmounted by an imperial crown, in honour of the then reigning sovereign, King \Villiam III. The exterior of the walls consists of rustic works ornamented with two rows of pilasters, the lower of the Corinthian, and the upper of the Composite order. The dome, or eupola, rises in beautiful and majestic proportion where the great lines of the Cl oss intersect each other. The dmnc is termi- nated by a lantern and globe; and on the summit of me whole is placed the emblem of the Christian faith. '1 he cathedral is "sur1ounded by a cast—iron balustrade, which weighs about 200 tons, and cost upwards of 1311.000 : this rests 011 a dwarf stone wall, and separates the churchymd from the str.eet The general form, or ground—plan, is that ot a Gieek cross, having a 111agnificent dome arising fiom the intersection of the nave and tran~ sept. From the externalD appearance the visitor is inadequatcl1 p1 e— pared for the effect of the interior; the unexpected loftincss of the vaulting, and of the long range of columns and piers which bursts unexpectedly 011 the sight, produces an effect of minrrled wondei and surpi 1se. The View upwards into the interior of the dome is extremely stzikinm It has been so constructed as to show a spacious conca1e RELIGIOUS EDIFICES 25 every way; and from the lantern at the top, the light is poured down with admirable effect over the whole, as well as through the great Colonnade that encircles its basement. - At such a moment the inscription over the entrance to the choir, commemorating the architect, has the merit of striking simplicity and truth. It was placed there by Mylne, the architect of Blackfriars’ Bridge, and is in Latin, of which the following is a translation: “Beneath lies CHRISTOPHER \VREN, the architect of this church and city, who lived more than ninety years, not for himself alone, but for the public. Reader, do you ask his monument? Look around ! ” lNTERIOR OF ST. PAUL’S The choir is separated from the body of the church by handsome iron railings. Over the entrance to it is the organ gallery, and an organ, erected in 1694, by Bernard Schmydt, or Smith, the suc- cessful candidate against Harris at the Temple, at a cost of £2,000. and supposed to be one of the finest in the kingdom. It contains :52 stops, and 2123 pipes, and from the peculiar reverberations of the building, its effect is equal to that of one containing double the number of stops. On the south side of the choir is a throne for the bishop ; and on the north side another for the lord mayor; besides these there is on each side a long range of stalls. The whole are richly ornamented with carvings by Grinling Gibbons, who was the first, according to \Valpo’e, who succeeded in giving to \ god “the loose and airy light- ness )f flowers, and chained tog-ether fife various productions of the elem :nts with a free disorder natural to each species.” In the chancel, orsemicircular recess, at the east end, stands the communion table. What is called the altar—piece, has four fluted pilasters painted in imitation of lapis lazuli, and is besides, ornamented with a profusion of gilding; but its appearance is, on the whole, insignificant when 26 LoxDox. contrasted with the lofty windows above it, and the general magni- tude of the choir. It is due, however, to the memory of \Vren, to notice, that he had other designs for this part of the building than those which have been realised. “The painting and gilding,” says the Parentalia, “ of the east end of the church, over the communion table, was intended only to serve the present occasion, till such time as materials could have been procured for a magnificent design of an altar, consisting of four pillars, wreathed, of the richest Greek mar- bles, supporting a canopy hemispherical, with proper decorations of architecture and sculpture, for which the respective drawings and a model were prepared. Information and particular descriptions of cer- tain blocks of marble were once sent to Dr. Henry Compton, bishop of London, from a Levantine merchant in Holland, and communicated to the surveyor, butunluckily the colour and seantlings (lid not answer his purpose; so it rested in expectance of a fitter opportunity, else probably this curious and stately design had been finished at the same time with the main fabric.” The pulpit and fald-stool, or reading- desk are "both fine objects; the former was designed by Mylne, and is richly carved and gilt; the latter is supported by an eagle with ex- panded wings, standing on a pillar, surrounded by rails; the whole of gilt brass, and is very light and airy. A circular staircase within the S. \V. pier leads by an easy ascent to the \VhiSpering Gallery, which encircles the lower part of the dome at the extreme edge of the cornice. From this situation, the new of the church, the cupola, and the lantern, is strikingly sublime; and here the paintings by Sir James Thornhill, now fast decaying, on the compartments of the dome are seen to the greatest advantage. These designs are illustrative of the most remarkable occurrences in St. Paul’s life: his miraculous conversion near Damascus; St. Paul preach- ing before Sergius Paulus, with the Divine judgment upon Elymas, the sorcerer; the reverence offered to Paul and Barnabas at Lystra by the priests of Jupiter; the imprisonment. of Paul and Silas at Philippi, with the conversion of the gaoler; Paul preaching to the Athenians; the magic books of the Ephesians burnt; St. Paul’s defence before Agrippa and Bernice; his shipwreck at Melita. The \Vhispering Gallery takes its name from the well-known re- verberation of sounds; so that the softest whisper is accurately and loudly conveyed to the car at the distance of 100 feet, the diameter of the dome in this part. If the door be shut forcibly. it produces a strong reverberation similar to thunder. The samestaircase commu- nicates with the galleries over the north and south aisles of the nave, containing the library and model-room. . The Library was furnished with a collectlon of books by Bishop Qompton, whose portrait is preserved here; but the flooring, consisting of upwards of 200 pieces of oak, is pomted out as the object utost deserving the attention of a casual visitor. The corresponding room in the north gallery contains a model of the beautiful altar—piece in- tended bv the architect to ornament the east end of the church; and a large niodel for this building in the style of a Grecian temple. This room contains also some of the Funeral decorations used at the inter- ment of Lord Nelson. Remcxovs EDIFICES 27 The Clock~works are well deserving the attention of the curious. The pendulum is 14 feet long, and the weight at the end is 1 cwt. ; the dials on the outside are regulated by a smaller one within; the length of the minute-hands on the exterior dials is 8 feet, and the weight of each 75 pounds; the length of the hour hands is 5 feet 5 inches, and the weight 44 pounds each; the diameter of the dials is 1-8 feet 10 inches, and the length of the hour figures 2 feet 27', inches. The fine-toned bell which strikes the hours is clearly distinguishable from every other in the metropolis, and has been distinctly heard at the distance of 20 miles. It is about 10 feet in diameter, and is said to weigh 44, tons. It is inscribed “ Richard Phelps made me.” This bell is tolled on the death of any member of the royal family, of the lord mayor, the bishop of London, or the dean of the cathedral. The weight of this bell is 14,474 pounds. . The Ball and Cross surmounting the lantern, re-erected in 1822, are constructed, as to outline and dimensions, on the same plan as the originals; but the interior has been much improved by the substitu- tion of copper and gun-metal bands for those of iron. The! whole height of the copper-work, which weighs about 4 tons, is 27 feet. The iron spindle in the centre, and standards to strengthen the cop- per-work, weigh about 3 tons, forming a total weight of above 7 tons. The old ball, which has been removed to the Colosseum, measuring 6 feet 2 inches in diameter, was made of 14 pieces; whilst the new ball, measuring 6 feet, and weighing about half a ton without its ornaments or standards, is constructed of only 2, a fair demonstration of the improved state of science. It is capable of containing 8 persons. The old ball, including the spindle, standards, &c., weighed 24, tons, and the cross 14,. The ascent to_ the ball is formed of 616 steps, of which the first 280 lead to the Whispering gallery. From the whisper- ing gallery the visitor ascends to the stone gallery, which surrounds the exterior dome above the colonnade; and from this elevation, when the atmosphere is clear, the view around is magnificent. As the stair- case above this becomes very steep, narrow, and dark, not many visitors can be prevailed on to go higher; and yet there is much to re- pay both the trouble and apprehension attending the ascent. In the crown of the dome there is a circular opening, from which the super- structure of the cone and lantern, and the cross, rise nearly a hundred feet higher. Around the exterior base of the cone there is a railed gallery, called the Golden Gallery, from which there is a more ex- tended, and, on account of the increased diminution of individual obj ects, a more curious, view of the busy world beneath. If the visitor’s head is steady enough to master the feeling of dizziness which over- powers most people at so great an elevation, and makes them feel that. the only pleasure in going up is the pleasure of coming down again, he may even ascend by ladders into thefiiiérzntern itself, and from .the bull’s-eye chamber, extend his survey far into the countiy on every Side. In descending from this lofty perambulation, the visitor, when he reaches the whispering gallery, may return to’the lower part of the church by a different staircase from that by which he ascended, called the Geometrical Staircase. It is, however, seldom used, and is chlefly resorted to by the curious in architectural matters, on account of the 2‘1 LONDON. Singularity and skilfulness of its construction. The stairs go round the concave in a spiral direction; and the base is a circle inlaid with black and white marble, in the form of a star. About the year 1790, a scheme was suggested, and has since been carried into effect, which has succeeded in breaking the monotonous uniformity of the architectural masses in the cathedral, by the intro- duction of Monuments and Statues in honour of the illustrious dead, and has added materially to the interest excited in the mind of the visitor. The first erected being that to the memory of John Howard, opened to the public in 1796. Many of the monuments which are ranged around to the memory of distinguished men, particularly naval and military heroes, are of great merit; but there are some to which grave objections may be taken, both for inappropriate design and defective execution. Those which, from their historical associations, or beauty, as works of art. are most likely to attract the attention of visitors, are the monuments of Nelson, Collingwood, Cornwallis, Abercrombie, Howe, Rodney, Heathfield, and Sir John Moore, Bishops Heber and Middleton, Sir W. Jones, Sir J. Reynolds, Dr. Johnson, and Howard, the philan- thropist. The inscription on the last-named monument is from the pen of the late Samuel VVhitbread, Eso. M.P., and well deserves to be transcribed. “This extraordinary man had the fortune to be honoured while living in the manner which his virtues deserved. He received the thanks of both Houses of the British and Irish Parliaments, for his eminent services rendered to his country and to mankind. Our national prisons and hospitals, improved upon the suggestions of his wisdom, bear testimony to the solidity of his judgment, and to the estimation in which he was held. In every part of the civilized world, which he traversed to reduce the sum of human misery, from the throne to the dungeon, his name was mentioned with respect, gratitude, and admiration. His modesty alone defeated various etforts which were made during his life to erect this statue, which the public has now consecrated to his memory. He was born at Hackney, in the county of Middlesex, September 2nd, 1726. The early part of his life was spent in retirement, residing principally upon his paternal estate, at Cardington, in Bedfordshire, for which county he served the office of Sheriff, in the year 1773. He expired at Cherson, in Russian Tartary, on the 20th January, 1790, avictim to the perilous and benevolent attempt to ascertain the cause of, and find an efficacious remedy for, the plague. He trod an open but unfrequented path to immortality, in the ardent and unremitted exercise of Christian charity. May this tribute to his fame excite an emulation of his truly glorious achievements!” Descending from the body of the church, the visitor is conducted to the crypt, used as the place of sepulture for such as are interred in the cathedral. It is a large, dry, and well~lightcd space, with massive arches, some of the pillars of which are forty feet. square; forcibly illustrating, by their solidity, the immense weight and magnitude of the edifice they help to sustain. Here, besides the remains of the illustrious men whose monumental records we have named above, . e preserved some fragments of the wreck of the old cathedral, which, having been thrown aside after the great fire, have since been recovered and placed in a recess under the east window of this subterranean RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 29 vault. Among them is the effigy of John Donne, D. D., author of the well-known Satires, by Nicholas Stone. The figure of the poet is in a. winding sheet, and was originally depicted rising from a vase, executed from a painting made by Donne’s directions, who, it is said, when near death, wrapped himself in a shroud, and was so portrayed as a corpse, standing upon an urn. Here are ealso the effigies of Sir Nicholas Bacon, 1n iull a1 mour; Sir John VVolley, and his lady, - Sir Christopher Hatton, Lord Chancellor, in armour; and the mutilateu bust of Dr. John Colett, of whom it was formeily inscribed on his tomb that he was “Doctor of Divinitie, Dean of Pawle’ s, and the only .founder of Pawle’s Schole, who departed this lyefle Anno Domini 1519.” The school referred to is that still existing at the east end of the Cathedral, which, though called St. Paul’s, is dedicated to the child Jesus, and entirely unconnected with the cathedral establishment. NELSON’S TOMB. But the chief object of interest 1n these suoterranean vaults is the tomb of Nelson, in the middle avenue of the crypt. immediately under the centre of the dome. The sarcophagus of black marble was designed for Cardinal \Volsey , for his own entombment, in St. George’ 5 Chapel, 30 Lennon. at Windsor; it is surmounted with a cushion and coronet, and on the pedestal are the words ‘ HORATIO VISC. NELSON. The body of Lord Collingwood reposes under an altar tomb. near that of his illustrious commander, and much-esteemed friend. In the south aisle of the crypt, is the low tomb of Sir Christopher Wren, supposed to mark the spot where the high altar formerly stood. Here, too, lie interred, the architects of Blackfriar’s and V aterloo Bridges. Robert Mylne, (d. 1811.) and John Bennie, (d. 1821.) as also in contiguous graves, those eminent painters, Sir Joshua Reynolds, ((1. 1792.) James Barry, (d. 1806.) John Opie, (d. 1807.) Benjamin VXest, (d. 1820.) Henry Fuseli, (d. 1825.) and Sir Thomas Lawrence, .( . 1830.) Feet. The dimensions from east to west, within the walls . . 510 From north to south, within the doors of the porticoes . . 282 Its height within, from the centre of the floor to the cross 340 Ditto, from the vaults below . . . . . . . 404 The circumference of the dome within is . . .. . 300 The diameter of the ball . . . . . . 6 From the ball to the top of the cross . . . . . 30 The breadth of the western entrance . . . . . 100 The diameters of the columns of the porticoes . . . 4 The height to the top of the west pediment under the figure of St. Paul . . . . '. . . . . 120 The height of the towers of the west front . . . . 287 The crcumference of the clock dial . . . . . . 57 The length of the minute hand . . . . . . 8 The length of the hour figures . . . . . 2ft. Erin. The Choral Service is performed daily in great perfection at St. Paul’s. The service commences at three-quarter’s past nine precisely in the morning, and at a quarter past three in the afternoon. The doors are opened a quarter of an hour before the beginning of each service, without charge. At all other home, visitors may gain admittance by the door of the northern portico; and on pay ing the stated fees, they are at liberty to view any or all of the objects of in- terest Within the sacred edifice. From twelve to one is a very favour- able time for visiting this building; for not only is the light stronger, and the atmosphere less chilly and damp, but at that time a person attends daily to wind up the clock, who can afford some curious ex- planations respecting it. s. d. To the \Vhispering Gallery and the two Outside Galleries 0 6 To the Ball . . . . . . . . . 1 6 To the Library, Great Bell, Geometrical Staircase, and Model Room 0 6 Clock . . . . . . . . . . . 0 ‘2 Crypt or Vaults . . . . . 0 ) Total . . 3 2 RELIGIOUS Empress. 31 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. From hence we may that antique pile behold, Where royal heads receive the sacred gold; It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keep There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep; Making the circle of their reign complete, Those suns of empire, Where they rise they set !— Waller. \Vcstminster Abbey may not inaptly be called the pantheon of the glory of Britain, for it is its monuments and remains which render the Abbey so precious to Englishmen and the whole civilised world. Here lie nearly all our kings, queens, and princes, from Edward the (Son- fessor to George II. At the mention of its very name What a crowd of thoughts rush upon the mind; here kings and sculptors, princes and poets, philosophers and warriors, aged men and budding youth, the vulgar great and the author of imperishable strains, have silently mouldered into dust; and enduring marble embalms their memory. Here the rival statesmen are at peace, and the tongue of the crater is mute: here, side by side, rest the crowned head and the chancellor ; the archbishop and the actor; the philanthropist and the naval here; the divine and the physician ; the queen and the actress. Here the Roman Catholic Magnate has celebrated mass with more than Eastern splendour; and here the Puritan hath fired forth his fervent but lowly exhortation. Here the dread sentence of excommunication has been launched forth in all its terrors; and here the first English Bible issued from the press. Here the magnificence and pomp of the regal coronation, have followed the solemn and bca’ritiful burial service for the dead; and here the pealing organ and the swelling choir, rever- berating through the lofty grey-grown aisles, attunes the mind to solemn thoughts, and sobriety of dcmeanour. 32 LONDON. This truly noble spemmen of Gothic aremtecture was originallyl founded 111 the seventh century. by Sebert, King 01 the Last.) \axonsj 111 the year 610; but being atterwa r1'1ds destro5 ed b5 the Danes, it 113.1- rebuilt by King Edgar in 958. Edward the 'Confessor again iebmll the abbey and cathedral on a more extended scale, in 1066? 11 hen Pope—i Nicholas II. constituted it the place of inaugmation ot the kin; rs 01'; E igland, and gave it the form of a cross, 11' hich thenceto1 ward beeamu theo usual form for cathedral building n1 England. Henry III. U1eatly enlarged the abbey in 1245, and commenced building the piesenti church, which was continued by Edward 1., as far as the extremitv of; the choir; the nave and east part were erected in succeeding reig11s,: and the western towers were completed by Sir C11Iistopher'\\1en,1 but the most remarkable addition made to it. was the chapel of Henry: VIL, which, though in itself an architectural gem unequalled in Eng—: land, does not harmonize with the original design. 111 the generah plimder of monasteries and church property, which distinguished the» reign of Henry VIII., \Vestminster Abbey sufl‘ei ed severely; but it was: treated still worse by the Puritans, in the great ci1il war, it being used as barlacks for the soldiers of Palliament, who wantonly de-~ stroyed and mutilated many 01 the tombs and monuments that adoi 111d the various chapels; the altars 111 these chapels to the saints were throw me down, the images broken, and the rich stained windows shattered into 1; fragments. The restoration of this great national edifice was entrustedi to Sir Christopher \Vren, who performed his task with such ability, .. that the building was greatly improved, both in solidity of structureé and majesty of eflect, Che having added the two t0\\'t‘ls at the westl end. “ 'lhese towels,” says the poet Giay, “ are after designs by Sir'. Christopher VS ren, who also made d1 awings fora spire ot t11 e11 e sides, which is to be built hereafter. Neither this masttr, nor the great Inigo Jones, are at all to be admired in their imitations of the Gothic ; style. This front of the Abbey has no det 1ehed columns, 01' other pierced works of carving, to which the true Gothic owes its lightness: and there is, besides, a niixtuie of modern 01 naments entirely 111eon- 1 sistent with this mode 01 building; such as the broken scroll pedi- ments, supported by consoles, 111th masques and i'estoons, over the ward apertures, designed for the cornices over the gr 'at door. &0. 111 all the flank views of the edifice the two towers seem to unite, . and appear as one square, low, and heavy steeple.” During the pro- gress of this re—editication, seve'al curious and ancient monuments were brought to light, which may still be seen: amongst otlnrs. the Mosaic pa1ement,aexecuted under the directions of Rich-1nd dc \\ ate, Abbot ot \\ estminster, in 1360, now in front 01 the altar in the LllC 11. The best external 111. 11 ot the abbey is obtained tro1n the open space in front 01 the weste1n ent1anee, 11he1e the two gicat towers have a most sublime and imposing eflect. lhe front ot the no1th t1ansept has a very noble appearance, to which the elegant 1ose 11 111- dow, rebuilt in 173;, greatl1 cont1ibutes. "for 110.11 15' three hundred ysear s’,’ says Brayley, "this must have been the principal entrance into the church; all the stately processions, associated with the rites of Catholic worship, all the pompous trains assembltd to grace the corona- t1ons and the burials of our sovereigns, must have been ushered RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 33 lhcneath its porch to give interest and effect to the solemnities Within.” .». he contrast of the more elaborate tracery and delicate workmanship of Henry VII.’s Chapel is, however, ‘very great: but passing this over, we come round to the eastern entrance, at Poet’s Corner. ‘V he i ‘ 0 llg‘ .' gate? g; u‘ «”‘u-e '- x 7 NF; 2“- ' latinl‘ SOUTH AISLE OF THE NAVE. The best view of the interior is obtained from the great western door. The body of the church presents an impressive appearance, the whole design of the edifice being at once opened to the View of the spectator, with its lofty roof, beautifully disposed lights, and long arcades of columns. These pillars terminate towards the east in a sweep, thereby enclosing the chapel of Edward the Confessor in a kind of semicircle, and excluding all the rest. On the arches of the pillars are galleries of double columns, fifteen feet wide, covering the side- aisles, and lighted by a middle range of windows, over which there is an upper range of larger windows; by these, and the under range, with the four capital windows, the whole fabric is so admirably lighted, that the spectator is never incommoded by darkness, nor dazzled by glare. In 17 35, the great west window was filled with stained glass, repre- senting Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; Moses and Aaron, and the twelve patriarchs; the arms of King Sebert, King Edward the Confessor, Queen Elizabeth, King George HI, and Dean \Vileocks, Bishop of Rochester. To the left, in a smaller window, is a painting of one of our kings (supposed of Edward the Confessor); but the colours being of a water-blue, no particular face can be distinguished. 34 LONDON. In the window on the other side is a figure representing Edward tne. Black Prince. The three windows at the east end contain each two figures. In the left window, the first figure represents our Saviour,x the second the Virgin Mary, the third Edward the Confessor, the: fourth St. John the Baptist, the fifth St. Augustine, and the sixthff Mclitus, Bishop of London, in the right hand window. The north, or rose window, was put up in the year 1722, and represents our. Saviour, the twelve apostles, and the four evangelists; the latter, with their emblems, lie down, two on each side. In 18-17, the gorgeous south, or marigold window, was filled with stained glass, from designs of Messrs. W ard and Nixon. In the centre is the word “ J EHOVAH,” surrounded by angels; and in the circle of sur- rounding light are thirty-two subjects illustrative of the principal incidents, miracles, and events in the life and sufferings of the Redeemer. In the twelve lower lights are subjects from Old Testa- ment history. The window of stained glass in Henry V.’s chantry, was filled at Dean Ireland’s expenee ; the armorial bearings are those of Edward the Confessor, Henry 111., Henry V., the arms of Queens of England, and at the very top of the window those of the Dean. THE CHOIR. The choir is fitted up with oak stalls, in the style of architecture of the time of Edward III., from designs by Mr. Blore, the Abbey architect, admirably executed by Mr. Ruddle, of Peterborough. The Dean and Sub-dean’s stalls are on either side of the arch, and are alike in general design, but that of the Dean being more elaborate in ornamental detail. They are octagonal in plan, and have projecting ' groined canopies, with pcdiments springing from moulded shafts with carved caps; above the canopies risc an octagonal turret with a spire. The arch is enclosed under a triangular pediment, the space between the pediment and arch being filled with tracery; the centre of which is aeinque foilenclosing a shield bearing the arms of Edward the Confessor; the ground of this is carved, and the hollows of the pedi- ment and arch mouldings are filled with the four-leaved flower peculiar to the style. The Canon’s stall have groined canopies with pcdiments, and the space between the pediment and canopy is filled with open traccry; the canopies spring from slender moulded shafts with carved capitals, and are separated by buttresses terminating in pinnacles between the. pedi'ments. The pew fronts are worked into tracery with deep mouldings, and the panels are divided into compartments by buttresses decorated with tracery, crockets, and finials. The caps and poppy heads of the desk ends, and the ornamental accessories of the stall work and pews, are carved, to represent the foliage of ivy, maple, oak, willow, hop, vine, &c. The carving and tracery exhibit a great variety of design, and are entirely the pro- duction of hand labour; the total number of stalls is fifty-two. The organ, which formerly stood in the centre, and consequently obstructed the view from west to cast, was, in 1848, entirely rebuilt RELIGIOUS EDIFICES ‘ 35 by Mr. Hill, New Road, London. It is placed on the north, south, ,and east sides of the screen, and has three cases. The two principal eases,viz., those under the north and south arches, contain, respectively, the “grand” and “swell” organs. The small case on the east side 'of the screen facing the choir, contains the “ choir” organ. The or- ganist sits behind the latter organ, Where the manuals, or key boards, are placed. It may be easily imagined, that to connect these distinct organs with the manuals, and thus bringing them under the command of the performer, was an undertaking of no ordinary difficulty. It has, however, been successfully accomplished by Mr. Hill, who has by means of a nice mechanical adjustment, succeeded in producing a perfectly easy and light touch. The instrument is now considered one of the finest, as regards tone and construction, in the kingdom; the number of stops being thirty-seven. The solemn oflices of crowning and enthroning the sovereigns of England, take place in the centre of the sacrarium, and beneath the lantern is erected the throne at which the peers do homage. When the crowns are put on, the peers and ‘peeresses put on their ,coronets, and a signal is given from the top‘of the Abbey for the Tower guns to fire at the same instant. In" the pavement before the altar is an extremely curious Mosaic work; generally it consists of circles, squares, and parallelograms, within gullioche borderings, intersecting each other; and is said to have been brought from Rome, by Abbot \Vare, after the church was re-built by Henry III. and Edward I. The materials are tesserae of porphyry, jasper, alabaster, Lydian, and serpentine marbles, stained blue glass, and other substances. The names of the several chapels, surrounding the choir begin- ning from the south cross, and so passing reund to the north cross, are in order as follows :—1. St. Benedict; 2. St. Edmund; 3. St. Nicholas; 4. Henry V1I.; 5. St. 'Paul; 6. St. Edward the Confessor; 7. St. Erasmus; 8. Abbot Islip’s Chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist; 9. St. John the Evangelist, St. Michael, and St. Andrew. The three last are now laid together. EDWARD THE CONFESSOR’S CHAPEL. Marble monuments are here displayed, Thronging the walls; and on the floor beneath Sepulchral stones appear, with emblems grarcn, " And foot-worn epitaphs; and some with small And shining effigies of brass inlaid. ——T he tribute by these various records claimed \Vithout reluctance do we pay,——and read The obituary chronicle of birth, Office, alliance, and promotion—all Ending in dust—Rogers. The chapel of Edward the Confessor stands, as it were, in the centre, and is inclosed in the body of the church. It is situated be- hind the altar at the east end of the choir, and is not only the met-’5 36 - LONDON. ancient, but the most remarkable. It contains the tesselated shrine of St. Edward, its saintly founder, whose remains are inclosed within an iron-bound chest in the upper part, it is an exquisite specimen of workmanship, executed by Pietro Cavalini, by order of Henry 111.. upon the canonization of Edward by Pope Alexander 111., who en- joined “that his body be honoured here upon earth, as his soul is glo- rified in heaven,” but now sadly dilapidated. Before this shrine a lamp was kept continually burning; on one side stood an image of the Virgin, in silver, adorned with two jewels of immense value, pre- sented by Eleanor, Queen of Henry III. ; on the other side was placed an image of the Virgin carved in ivory, presented by Thomas a Becket. The miracles and marvels relating to this shrine would fill a volume. In this chapel the body of Eleanor, Queen of Edward 1., lies buried, . so renowned in history for sucking the poison from a wound given to her royal husband in the Holy Land, by the hand of an assassin. ‘ I A M I CORONATION CHAIR. One of the principal objects of interest here deposited, is the Coronation Chair of the sovereigns of England, made in the reign of Edward I. to contain the famous stone on which the inauguration of the Scottish kings was performed, and which Edward 1. brought from Scone, in RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 37 ‘Perthshire, in 1297, according to the old rhyming chronicle- “ Kyng Edward wyth the lang shanks fro Scotland hit fette, "Beside the shryne of Seynt Edward at Westminster het hit sette.” \Vith this chair is kept another, made for the coronation of Queen Mary, the consort of William 111.; it is wholly unornamented, but is similar in form to the more ancient one. Here are also kept the iron sword of Edward 111., and a part of his shield. ' Sir Roger, in the next place, laid his hand upon Edward III.’s sword, and, leaning upon the pommel of it, gave us the whole history of the Black Prince; concluding, that in Sir Richard Baker’s opinion, Edward 111. was one of the greatest princes that ever sate on the English throne—Addison. Over the arched recess occupied by the tomb of Henry V. is a large and elegant chantry. This is entered by two staircases within octa- gonal towers, ornamented with Statues and pierced tracery. On a wooden bar, that extends between the entrance-towers, is th casque, or helmet, which Henry wore at the battle of Agincountq an, fastened against the large columns at the sides are his shield and war-saddle. Several models of buildings and monuments are preserved here; among them is that designed by Sir Christopher Wren, for erecting a lofty spire on the central tower of this church. , The screen of the chapel is adorned with several statues, and with fourteen legendary hieroglyphics illustrative of the life and visions of the Confessor, executed in basso-relievo. They are very curious, and although wofully dilapidated, deserve a minute inspection. The sub- jects are-— 1. The prelates and nobility swearing fealty to Edward when in his mother’s womb. . . The Birth of Edward the Confessor. . His Coronation. - - . The alarm of King Edward at the appearance of the devil dancing upon the money collected for the payment of ‘Dane-Gelt. The figure of the devil is gone. ‘ ‘ . . Edward’s generous admonitidn to the thief purloining his treasure. . The miraculous appearance of our Saviour to King Edward when par- taking of the Sacrament» of the Eucharist. v . The drowning of the King of Denmark, as beheld in a vision by King Edward. . The quarrel between Tosti and Harold, Earl Godwin’s sons, at the king’s table. . . Edward’s vision of the Emperor Theodosius before the cave of the Seven Slee era. 10. St. Joiin the Evangelist, in the garb of a pilgrim, requesting alms of the king. 11. The blind men restored to sight by washing in the water used by King Edward. ‘ 12. St. John giving King Edward’s ring to the pilgrims. 13. Pilgrims returning the ring to King Edward. 14. The Dedication of Edward the Confessor’s church. The whole is thought to have been erected in the reign of Henry VI. D bF-COM coooxxcao‘ 38 LONDON. Henry IV. was seized with his last illness while paying his devo- . tions at St. Edward’s shrine. He was taken from the c e1 to one of ‘ the abbot’s chambers, called the “Jerusalem Chamber,” joining the south-west tower, in which he expired. “ He became so syke ,” says Fabyan, “ whyle he was makyng his prayers, to take there is leve, and so to spede hym vpon his iourney, that such as were aboute him feryd that he wouide have dyed right there; wherefore they, for his comfort, bare him into the Abbotte’s place, and lodged him in a cham— ber, and there, upon a paylet, layde hym before the fyre.” King Hen—Both any name articular belong Unto the lodging where I first 'd swoon? Warwick—TE called Jerusalem, my noble lord! King Hen—Laud be to God! even there my life must end. It hath been rophesied to me many years I should not 'e but in Jerusalem, Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land. But hear me to that chamber, there I’ll lie, In that Jerusalem shall Henry die—King Henry I V. Part II. a The coronation of all the kings and queens of England have taken . 3 place in the abbey; and even when a monarch had been crowned pre- viously in another place, as in the case of Henry 111., whose corona- ‘ tion took place at Gloucester, it was thought proper to have the ceremony again gone through at IVestminster, in the presence of the nobles, and the chief ecclesiastical dignitaries of the land; the arch- bishop always officiating in the august ceremonial. In the year 1170, a coronation of a somewhat curious description took place here. Henry 11. having obtained leave of a general assembly of his principal subjects at Windsor, had his eldest son, Henry, crowned king in the abbey church. This ceremony appears to have taken 'place at the request of the son, whose subsequent ingratitude was a base return to his father Holinshed in his Chronicles fully de- scribes the coronation, and the circumstances attending on it “ The coronation,” says he, “was held in the great hall at \Vestminster, and King Henry, the father, served his sonne at the table as sewer (or waiter), bringing up the boar’s head with trumpets before it, accord- ing to the manner; whereupon the young man, conceiving a pride in his heart, beheld the standers by with a more stately countenance than ne was wont. The archbishop of York, who sat by him, marking his behaviour, turned to him, and said: ‘ Be glad my good sonne, there is not another prince in the world, that hath such a sewer at his table; ’ to this the new king answered, as it. were disdainfullie thus: Why dost thou marvel at this? My father in doing it, thinketh it no more than becometh him; he being born of princely blood on] on the mother’s side, serveth me that am a king born, having ho a king to my father, and a queen to my mother.’ Thus the young man, of an evil and perverse nature, was puffed up in pride by his father’s unseemly dooing.” This young prince did not live to possess the crown, for rebelling against his father, he fled to the continent, where he soon after died. ‘ RELIGIOUS Emrrcns. 39 Richard I. was crowned in the abbey on Sunday, September 3rd, ' 1189, and the event was unfortunately distinguished by a massacre of the Jews. Richard had given orders that none of them should be al- lowed to approach the abbey while the solemnity was being performed, “ for fear of the enchantments which they were wont to practise ;” but some of the principal Jews having failed to observe the injunction, the people committed great outrages upon their persons and property the Londoners slew many within the city, and burnt their houses Richard was twice crowned in the abbey; for having undertaken a war against France, he was taken prisoner, and confined in that country for many years; at last, however, he obtained his release on payment of a heavy fine, and, returning to London, was again crowned at Westminster, in the year 1197. ENGLISH SOVEREIGNS, CROWNBD AT WESTMINSTER ABBEY, WITH THE DATE OF THEIR CORONA'I‘ION. I . Harold 11., Jan. 5, 1066 William the Conqueror, Dec. 25, 1066 Queen Maud of Flanders, April 22, 1068 William 11., Sept. 26, 1087 Henry 1., August 5, 1100 Queen Maud of England, Nov. 11, 00 11 Queen Adeliza of Brabant, Jan. 30, 121 1 Stephen, Dec. 26, 1135 Queen Maud ot Boulogne, March 22, 1136 Henry 11., Dec. 19., 1154 Prince Henry, son of Henry 11., June 15,1170 Richard 1., Sept. 3, 1189 John, May 27, 1199 Queen Isabella of Angouleme, Oct. 8, 1200 Henry 111., (second time) May 17 1220 Queen Eleanor of Provence, Jan. 20, 1236 Edward I. and Queen Eleanor of Cas- tile, August 19, 1274 Edward II. and Queen Isabel of France, Feb. 23, 1307 Edward 111. Feb. 2, 1327 Queen Philippa of Heinhault, April, 1327 Richard 11., July 16, 1377 Queen Anne, of Bohemia, Jan. 22, 1382 Queen Isabel of France, Nov. 14, 1497 Henry IV., Oct. 13, 1399 Queen Joan of Navarre, Jan. 26, 1403 Henry V., April 9, 1413 Queen Catherine of France, Feb. 24, 1421 ‘ Henry VI., Nov. 6, 1429 Queen Margaret of Anjou, May 30, 1445 .Edward 1V., June 29, 1461 Queen Elizabeth Woodville, May 26, 1665 Richard 111., July 6, 1483 Henry V11 , Oct 30, 1485 Queen Elizabeth of York, Nov. 25, 1487 Henry VIII. and Queen Catherine of agon, June 24, 1509 Queen Anne Boleyn, June 1, 1533 Edward VI., Feb. 20, 1547 Queen Mary, Sept. 30, 1553 Queen Elizabeth, Jan. 15, 1558 James 1., July 25, 1603 Charles 1., Feb. 2, 1625 Charles 11., April 23, 1661 James 11., April 23, 1685 William and Mary, April 11, 1689 Queen Anne, April 23, 1702 George 1., Oct. 20, 1714 George 11., Oct. 11, 1727 George 111., Sept. 22, 1761 George 1V., July 19, 1821 William 1V., Sept. 8, 1831 Queen Victoria, June 28, 1838 D2 40 LONDON. HENRY Vll.’$ CHAPEL. This magnificent chapel, which adjoins the east end of the Abbe:r Church, and communicates with the ambulatory by a flight of several steps, was erected by the monarch whose name it bears, as the place of sepulture for himself and the royal blood of England; and till the reign of Charles 1., no person but those of royal blood, was suffered to be interred there. It was commenced in 1503. The first stone having been laid by John Islip, Abbot of \Vestminstcr, in the pre- sence of that monarch, and completed in 1512; and is one of the most exquisite specimens of florid Gothic in the world. The exterior is adorned with fourteen octagonal towers, jutting from the building in different angles, and ornamented with a profusion of sculpture. Its cost is said to have been £14,000, equal to £200,000 of our present mone . During a period of eleven years (from 1809 to 1822) the exterior of this superb chapel underwent a complete restoration, under the superintendence of the late James Wyatt, Esq., at a cost of about; £40,000, which was supplied by a Parliamentary grant. The ascent to the interior of Henry VII.’s Chapel is from the ambulatory, by steps of black marble, under a stately portico, which leads to the gates opening to the body or nave of the chapel On each side of the entrance there is a door opening into the side-aisles. The gates are of brass, most curiously wrought, in the manner of frame-work, having in every other panel a rose and portcullis alter- nately. Having entered, the eye will naturally be directed to the lofty ceiling, which is of stone, wrought with such an astonishing va- riety of figures, that no description can approach it. “ The very walls," says \Vashington Irving, “are wrought into universal ornament, en- crusted with tracery and scooped into niches, crowded with the statues of saints and martyrs. Stone seems, by the cunning labour of the RELIGIocs EDIFICES. 41 chise1,_ to have been robbed of its weight and density; 'supended aloft-- as if by magic, and the fretted roof achieved with the wonderful minuteness and airy security of a cobweb.” . The nave is separated from the aisles and eastern chapels by lofty arches, springing from clustered columns, or spires ;-. above which, .un- der rich canopies, is a continued range of statues, representing apostles, saints, and bishops; many of which are wrought-with wonderful skill and gracefiilness. Great elegance is displayed in the forms and tra- cery of the windows, and particularly of that towards the west; the eastern windows project in acute angles, but those of the aisles are embowed. Originally they were all filled by “ rich imager ,” in stained and painted glass; but the whole has been removed, or destroyed, except a figure of Hem'y VII., in the uppermost east window, and some small heraldic memorials. INTERIOR OF HENRY Vll.’$ CHAPEL. The cast view from the entrance presents the brass chapel and tomo of the royal founder; and round it, where the east end forms a semi- circle, are the chapels of the Dukes of Buckingham and Richmond. At the east end of the south aisle is the royal vault; and in the cor- responding part of the north aisles is the tomb of the murdered princes. N 0 part of this chapel is more worthy of admiration than the roof, which is nearly flat, and supported upon arches rising from twelve magnificent Gothic pillars between the nave and side aisles. “The 42 LONDON. pendent-ive roof,” discourses Mr. Dallaway, “ never before attempted on solar e a scale,is indeed a prodigy of art; yet upon inspecting it, we are surprised rather than gratified. There is an infinity of roses, knots of flowers, bosses, pendents, with diminutive armorial cognizance, clustered without propriety upon every simple member of architecture, and we are at length fatigued by the very repetition which was intended to delight us. It afi'ords by far the most exuberant specimen of the pen- dentive roof, with panels diverging in rays, varied into many graceful . figures. There are eight clere-story windows above the aisles, which, as at King’s College and Windsor, are low, and depressed by the flying buttresses. The side walls are exuberantly covered with sunk panels. with feathered mouldings. In a profusion of niches, are statues, an- gels, with escocheons, and the royal heraldic devices, Tudor roses and the fleurs-de-lis under crowns.” The stalls are of brown wainscot, with Gothic canopies, most beautifully carved, as are the seats, with strange devices. The pavement is of black and white marble, laid at the ex- pense of Dr. Killigrew, once the Prebendary of the abbey. In the nave o the chapel are installed, with great ceremony, the knights of the most honourable Order of the Bath : which order was revived in the reign of George I., in 1725. In their stalls are placed brass plates of their arms, and over them hang their banners, swords, and helmets. Under the stalls are seats for the esquires ; each knight has three, Whose arms are engraved on brass plates. The principal object of admiration here, both for its antiquity and its workmanship, is the magnificent tomb of Henry VII. and Elizabeth his queen, the last of the house of York who wore the English crown, executed by the celebrated Pietro Torrigiano, between the years 1512 and 1518. The surrounding screen which is wholly of brass and cop- per, is one of the most elaborate specimens of the art of founding, in open work, that exists. It is ornamented with many devices alluding to his family and alliances; such as portcullises denoting his relation to the Beauforts by his mother’s side; roses twisted and crowned, in memory of the union of the two houses of Lancaster and York; and at each end a crown in a bush, referring to the crown of Richard III., found in a hawthorn, near Bosworth Field, where that famous battle was fought for a diadem, which, turning in favour of Henry, his impatience was so great to be crowned, that he caused the cere- mony to be performed on the spot with that very crown his com- petitor had lost. THE DIMENSIONS OF HENRY V1138 CHAPEL ABB— Feet. Length from east to west, including the walls . . 115 Breadth, including the walls . . . . . 80 Height of the Octagonal Towers . . . . 71 Height to the top of the roof . . . . . 86 Height to the top of the \Vest Turrets . 102 Length of the Nave . . . . 104 Breadth of the Nave . . . . 36 Height of the Nave . . . . . . 61 Breadth of each Aisle . . . . . 17 Rsmclovs EDIFICES. 43 In a fine vault, under Henry VII’s chapel, is the burying-place of the royal family, erected by George II., but not now used. m DIMENSIONS OF THE ABBEY ARE— Feet. Length from east to west, including walls, but exclusive of Henry VII’s Chapel . . . . . . 416 Height of the West Towers . . . . . 225 Length within the walls . . . . . . 383 Breadth at the Transept . . . . . . 203 Length of the Nave . . . . . . . 166 Breadth of the Nave . . . . . . 39 Height of the Nave . . . . . . . 102 Breadth of each Aisle . . . . . . 17 Length of the Choir . . . . . . 156 Breadth of the Choir . . . . . 28 Besides the church, many of the ancient appendages of the Abbey still exist. The Cloisters of the foundation remain nearly entire, and are filled with monuments, many of which are of great interest. They are built in a quadrangular form, with piazzas towards the court, in which several of the prebendaries have 'houses. “The Cloisters still retain,” says Washington Irving, “ something of the quiet and seclusion of former days. The grey walls are discoloured by damps, and crumb— ling with age; a coat of hoary moss has gathered over the inscriptions of the mural monuments, and obscured the death’s-heads and other funereal emblems. The “sharp touches of the chisel are gone from the rich tracery of the arches; the roses .which adorned the key-stones have lost their leafy beauty; everything bears marks of the gradual dilapidations of time, which yet have something touching and pleasing in its very decay.” The entrance into the Chapter-house, (built in 1250), is on one side of the cloisters, through a Gothic portal, the mouldin of which are exquisitel carved. B consent of the abbot in 137 , the Commons of Great ritain first eld their parliaments in this place, the Crown undertaking the reuairs. Here they sat till 1547, when Edward VI. granted them the chapel of St. Stephen. It is at present fiilled with the public records, among which, is the original Doomsday Book, now above 800 years old: it is in as fine preservation as if it were the work of yesterday. The records of the Star chamber proceedings are also deposited here. Attendance from 10 till 4. Beneath the chapter-house is a singular crypt, the roof of which is supported by massive plain ribs, diverging from the top of a short round pillar, quite hollow. The walls are not less than eighteen feet thick, and form a firm base to the superstructure. Not far from the Abbey stood the Sanctuary, the place of refuge absurdly granted in former times to criminals of certain denomina- tions. The church belonging to it was in the form of a cross. it is supposed to have been the work of the Confessor. Within its precmcts was born Edward V. ; and here his unhappy mother took refuge With her younger son Richard, to secure him from his cruel 1111016, Who had already possession of the elder brother. 44 LONDON. To the west of the Sanctuary stood the Eleemo ary, or Almonry, where the aims of the Abbey were distributed. ut 1t is still more remarkable for having been the place where the first printing-press ever known in England was erected. It was in 1474, when William Caxton, encouraged by “the great,” and probably by the learned Thomas Milling, then Abbot, produced “ The Game and Play of the Chesse,” the first book ever printed in these kingdoms. The Abbey is open for divine service every day, at ten in the mom- ing, and three in the afternoon. The entrance is through the eastern gateway, leading to Poet’s Corner, opposite the House of Lords. The Poet’s Corner, the nave, and north transept, are free at all times. Guides are in attendance for the purpose of showing the chapels, from nine till six o’clock every day, except Sundays, Good Fridays, Christ- mas Days, and general fasts, at a charge of Sixpence for each person. On entering Poet’s Corner, Dryden’s monument is on the right- hand; and the entrance to the ambulatory, in which are the nine chapels, next to it. Explanato Guide—Clarke’s Westminster Ab- bey ; its History, Antiquity and ombs: price Sixpence. ST. SAVIOUR’S, Southwark, at the foot of London Bridge, is one of the most ancient and interesting buildings of London; and after “’estminster Abbey, contains the finest specimens of early English architecture in London. It was founded before the Conquest, and rebuilt in the thirteenth century, the poet Gower being a great benefactor: but it has been grievously disfigured by repairs and so-called improvements. The church is a noble fabric, of the pointed order, with three aisles running east and west, and a transept like a cathedral. The breadth of the transept is one hundred and nine feet. Twenty-six pillars, in RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 45 two rows, support the roof; and the chancel, and the galleries in the walls of the choir, are adorned with pillars and arches similar to those of Westminster Abbey. ' INTERIOR OF ST. SAVIOUR’S The Ladye Chapel, at the east end, is a very interesting work; happily saved from destruction on making the approaches to new London Bridge, and restored in admirable taste, in 1832. The interior is well worthy of observation. The roof is divided into nine groined arches, supported by six octangular pillars, in two rows, having small circular columns at the four points. In the east end, on the north side, are three lancet-shaped windows, divided by slender pillars, and having mouldings with zigzag ornaments. In this fine building, which is, perhaps the largest parish church in the kingdom, are numerous monuments of great interest; as those of William of Wykeham, the architect of Windsor Castle ; the poet Gower, (d. 1402.) removed to its present site and restored in 1832, at the expence of Gower first Duke of Sutherland; and Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester, (d. 1626.) The dramatists, Fletcher and Massinger, were buried here in one grave. The tower, which is square, is one hundred and fifty feet high, and contains twelve of the finest bells in England. It is memorable as being the place from whence Hollar drew his views of _London,' both before and after the great fire. 46 LONDON. ST. MAGNUS THE MARTYR, Thames Street, London Bridge. An elegant and well proportirned edifice, rebuilt in 1676, by Sir Christopher Wren, on the site of the church destroyed in the Great Fire; the steeple added in 1705, con- sists of a tower and lantern, or bell-tower, covered with a cupola, and surmounted with a spire The interior is divided into a nave and two aisles, by columns, and an entablature of the Ionic order. The altar- piece is richly carved and decorated, and is considered one of the handsomest in London. On the south side of the communion table is a tablet to the memory of Miles Coverdale, rector of St. Magnus, and Bishop of Exeter, under whose direction, October the 4th, 1535, “the first complete English version of the Bible was published.” On the demolition of the church of St. Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange, in 1842, his remains were removed hither, and reverently interred. The clock is said to be on an exact level with the ground at the end of gorgéiill. In the vestry room is an interesting painting of Old London n e. ST. DUNSTAN’S-lN-THE-EAST, St. Dunstan’s Hill, Tower Street. The “fair and large church ” of St. Dunstan-in-the-East, was well nigh destroyed by the “dismal fire ” of London, in 1666, as it is called in the parochial records of the time, when no less than 85 parish churches were destroyed, and but 13 escaped the fury of the devourin element. It was shortly after- wards restored by Sir Christopher \ ren, but in 1817 the walls having bulged, it was determined to rebuild the bod of the church, which was accordingly done under the direction of {In David Laing, and Mr. W. Tite, since known as the architect of the Royal Exchange, and the present edifice was opened in 1821 The interior is good as a whole, and a harmony of appearance has been preserved in the several parts. There are three aisles of nearly . equal width, divided by slender clustered columns, and pointed stone arches. The only gallery is that at the west end for the organ, and the children of the Tower ward charity school. The east window, in size and detail, corresponds with the window of the ancient church before the fire, and is filled with stained glass, by the late Mr. Buckley, representing, symbolically, the Law and Gospel. On each side of this is a stained glass window; that on the north side represents “ Christ blessing little children; ” and the one on the south side, “ The Ado- ration of the Magi.” The higher compartments of the windows on the south sides are occupied by the armorial bearings of ancient bene- factors of the parish, with scrolls containing suitable inscriptions from the bible: the whole being executed by Mr. E. Baillie. The elegant tower and spire are much admired for their singular construction: the spire rests on the crown of four pointed arches-Ta bold attempt in architecture, and one proof amongst many of the geo- RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 4‘3. metrical skill of Sir Christopher, by whom it was constructed in 1670. “ It is not too much to say,” says Elmes, “ that it stands unrivalled For elegance, beauty, and science.” There is a tradition that the plan 3f the tower and spire, suggested by St. Nicholas, at Newcastle, was furnished by the daughter of the great architect, Jane Wren, who died in 1702, at the age of twenty-six, and was buried under the choir of St. Paul’s Cathedral. On [the occasion of the dreadful storm, which raged in London through the night of the 26th of Nov. 1703, until the morning, Wren, on hearing that some of the steeples and pinnacles in the city had suffered serious injury, observed, that he felt sure of finding St. Dunstan’s tower and spire secure; a proof of his confidence in their strength and position. ' 1n the trees, in the south church yard, a colony of rooks may be observed to have taken up their abode. The rookery, before the last church was removed, consisted of upwards of 20 nests; and they were annually supplied with osier twigs, and the materials for building. 011 pulling down the church in' 1817, they migrated to the Tower of London, and built in the White tower; but returned afierwards, as soon as the noises of axes and hammers had ceased. At this day their little ’building materials are hospitably provided for them, by Mr. Crutchley, assistant overseer. ’ ST. MARY WOOLNOTH, is situated at the western extremity of Lombard Street, and 13 one of the most striking and original," although not the most beau- tiflil of the churches of the metropolis. It was erected in 1716, from designs W’y Nicholas Hawksmoor, (d. 1736) a pupil of Sir Chris- topher ren. The west front has an elongated tower, which, from the arrangement of the small turrets at the top, has the appearance of two towers united, and is without a prototype in England. The Rev. Mr. Dallaway has termed this front a “ miniature imitation of that of St. Sulpice, at Paris; ” but this can hardly be the case, as the facade. of that edifice was built b Servandoni, a considerable time after the completion of St. Mary, oolnoth. The interior is well proportioned, rich, and beautiful; and is nearly square, in the model of a Roman atrium. The ceiling of the square irea, enclosed by the clere-story walls, as well as the soffit of the aisles, formed by the columns, is profusely ornamentod with panels, and , :arved mouldings. The altar-piece and pulpit are of richly carved min the organ was built by Father Schmidt, in 1681. The Rev. John Newton, the friend of the poet Cowper, was rector )f this church twenty-eight years. He died in 1807, and a tablet has seen erected to his memory, bearing the following inscription, written 3y himself :— John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves in Africa, was, by the rich mercy of our Lord :and Saviour Jesus Christ, pre- ierved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had long aboured to destroy. 48 'LONDON. ST. STEPHEN’S, Walbrook. This small, but beautiful church, was erected by Sir Christopher \Vren; the first stone having been laid on the 16th of October, 1672, and has been universally admired for its elegance and proportions, being by many considered the masterpiece of the archi- tect. “ The general effect of the interior,” says Carter, “although deprived of its principal light—the east window—is undoubtedly grand and imposing: and notwithstanding pious feelings are not so immediately the result as when yielding to the solemn impressions inspired by our Gothic fanes, still, much-deserved praise must be al- lowed to the merits of the laborious knight in the present instance.” It is seventy-five feet long, fifty-six feet wide, and thirty-four feet high. The plan is original, yet chaste and beautiful ; the roof is sup- ported, and the area divided by sixteen Corinthian columns, eight of which sustain a hemispherical cupola, adorned with caissons, and having a lantern light in the centre. The order of the composition, the arrangement of the parts, and the effect of the whole, show the originality of \Vren’s mind in a striking " point of view; and its excellencies as a whole, swallow up the trifling fault of the detail. If any one doubt the excellencies of \Vren as an architect of the fit st class, let him study and analyze this jewel of the art. and find fault if he will, but let him first endeavour to surpass it. In the north transept is a picture by \Vest,——“ The Martyrdom of St. Stephen,”—presented by the Rev. Dr. \Vilson, in the year 1776. Sir John Vanburgh, the architect and dramatist, was here buried in the family vault. The present rector is Dr. Croly, the author of several admired works of fancy and imagination. Over the altar is a cornice richly decorated with carvings of fruit and flowers, executed by Mr. \V. G. Rogers. This fine church, which had fallen into sad dilapidation, through the continuance of the unfortunate differences between the parish- RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 49 ioners and tne cnurchwarden, Mr. Alderman Gibbs, has recently un- dergone a thorough restoration. ‘ ST. MARY LE-BOW, Cheapside, erected in 1673, by Sir Christopher Wren, on the site of the old church, destroyed by fire in 1666. The principal ornament of this church is its incomparable spire, which rises to the height of two hundred and twenty-five feet from the ground, and is much admired for its beauty and proportions; which, for scientific skill of construction, and elegance of elevation, surpasses all other steeples in London. “It is,” says Elmes, “not only his master-piece in composition, but stands unrivalled in this class of art, as well for its beauty as for its ingenious and scientific construction.” “The steeple is much admired,” says Walpole, “for my part I never saw a more beautiful modern steeple.” It was re- paired, and partly re-built in 1820, in accordance with the original design, by .Mr. George Gwilt. “It is beyond question,” says an old writer, “ as perfect as human imagination can contrive and execute and until we see it outdone we shall hardly think it to be equalled.” In this church the bishops of London are always consecrated; and here the “Boyle Lectures” are delivered annually, on the first Monday )f the month from January to May, and from September to November, in accordance with the bequest of the Hon. Robert Boyle. Underneath is a fine old Norman crypt, belonging to the original edifice, built in 1087, Wren having used the arches of the old church :0 support his own superstructure; it is now a vault, partially con~ :ealed by piles of coffins, and is not generally shewn. Here is a monument to Bishop Newton, (6.. 1782) by T.Banks, RA. .. 50 LONDON. ALL-HALLOW’S, Bread Street; situated at the corner of Bread Street and Wading Street. The old church having been destroyed in the Great Fire, the present edifice was erected by Sir Christopher \Vren, in 1684. The body of the church is plain, with dressings of the Tuscan order, and is an excellent specimen of the talents of the architect, in substantial and useful church building. The poet Milton was baptised in the old . church; the register still preserves the entry of his baptism, and on the outside of the church, a tablet with the following inscription has been placed ;— “ Three poets, in three distant ages born, Greece, Italy, and England did adorn: The first in loftiness of thought surpass’d. The next in majesty—in both the last. The force of Nature could no farther go, To make the third, she joined the former two." John Milton was born in Bread Street, on Friday the 9th day of December, 1608, and was baptized in the parish church of All-Hallows, Bread Street, on Tuesday the 20th day of December, 1608. John Howe, the eminent nonconformist divine, (d. 1705) was buried here. CHRIST CHURCH, Newgate Street, erected in 1687, by Sir Christopher \Vren, on the site of a church of Franciscans; where. it is said, no less than from six to seven hundred persons of distinction were interred. The present church is a spacious and handsome structure, one hundred and four- teen feet in length, eighty—one in breadth, and thirty-one in height. The lofty columnar steeple, and its solid square tower, forms one of the most striking features in the architecture of the metropolis. The pulpit is carved with representations of the Last Supper, and of the four Evangelists. The font is of white marble, adorned with alto-relieves. The Spital sermons are preached in this church during Easter week; and here, on St. Matthew’s Day, a sermon is annually preached before the lord mayor, alderman, and governors of Christ’s Hospital; after which, the senior scholars deliver Latin and English Orations, in the Great Hall, previous to being sent to the universities. Richard Baxter, the nonconformist, (d. 1691) is buried here. His wife (d. 1681) was buried in the rains, in her own mother’s grave. ST. SEPULCHRE’S, Skinner Street, at the corner of Giltspur Street. The body of the church being much damaged by the great fire of 1666, which stopped at Pie. Corner, a few yards to the north of this edifice, was re-buiit by Sir Christopher Wren, in 1687. Twelve columns of the Tuscan order Rsuarovs Empress. 51 support the flat ceiling of the church, and the vaulting of the nave. The altar-piece and roof are ornamented with fretwork; and over the former is a stained glass window. The organ is remarkable for its fine tone. The tower which is 140 feet in height, has four modern spires, ornamented with vanes. The clock at St. Sepulchre’s regulates the execution of criminals at Newgate; and, formerly, when executions were far more numerous, it was the custom for the clerk, or bellman, to go under the walls of Newgate, on the night preceding an execution, and after ringing his cell, to repeat the following verses :— All you that in the condemned hold do lie, Prepare ou, for to-morrow you shall die; Watch and pray, the hour is drawing near, That you before the Almighty must appear; Examine well yourselves, in time re ent, That you may not to eternal flames e sent, And when St. Sepulchre’s bell to-morrow tolls, The Lord have mercy on your souls. Past twelve o’ clock ! ST. ANDREW’S, Holborn Hill. Erected in 1687, under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren.‘ It is one of the finest and most appropriate protestant churches in London. Its exterior is plain, simple, and unpretending; consisting of a basement under the galleries, with low windows, which light the aisles, and an upper story of semicircular headed windows for the galleries and nave; crowned by a well-proportioned cornice, blocking course, and balustrade. The altar-piece and roof are ornamented with fretwork, and over the former is a painted window, erected in 1718, by Joshua Price, representing the Last Supper, and the Ascension. The organ is remarkable for its fine tone, and is the one made by Harris, in competition with Father Schmidt, for the Temple church. The celebrated Dr. Sacheverel used to preach here. The tower, which is the ancient one re-faced in 1704, is one hundred and ten feet in height, and has no pretensions either to beauty or taste; the interior is spacious, rich, and beautiful; consisting of a nave and two side aisles, divided in height into a ground floor and galleries. St. Andrew’s may almost be called the poets’ church, from the num- ber of that glorious, but unhappy fraternity, that have been in one way or another connected with it, from the time of Webster, the author of the “Duchess of Malfy,” who was parish clerk, down to the late Henry Neele, interred here, who committed suicide in a state of temporary insanity. Among the many eminent persons buried here, may be mentioned Lord Chancellor Wriothesley, the unhappy poet Chatterton, (d. 1770) Dr. Sacheverel, (d. 1724) buried in the chancel, under an inscribed stone, Emery, the actor, (d. 1822) and Joseph Strutt, author of “Sports and Pastimes,” (d. 1802). ST. BRIDE’S, Or at. Bridget 8, Fleet Street. Erected in 1680, by Sir Christopher’lVren, on the site of the church destroyed by the great fire, in 1666. The tower and spire were begml in 1701, and completed in 1703. The building being completed at a cost of £11,430. “This church,” says Elmes, “is of great strength and beauty: its interior is at once spacious, commodious, and elegant.” It is one hundred and eleven feet in length, fifty-seven feet in breadth, and forty-one feet in height; composed of a lofty nave, covered with an arched ceiling; and two aisles, separated below by solid pedestals, Supporting coupled Doric columns, which support the aisles of the nave and galleries. At the east end is a fine stained glass window, by the late Mr. Muss, representing the “Descent from the Cross,” “after Rubens. ‘ Its handsome tower, and well-proportioned spire, which is one of the highest in London, and exceeded by few in the kingdom, was originally two hundred and thirty-four feet in height,; but having been injured by lightning, in 1764, it was repaired, and reduced to its present height of two hundred and twenty-six feet The clock was put up in 1826, and was the first specimen of an illuminated dial erected in London. Among the many eminent persons buried here, ma be mentioned Richardson, a printer, in Salisbury Square, and the an or of “Clarissa Harlow,” and “ Pamela ; ” (d. 1761) Sir Richard Baker, author of the “ Chronicles;” (d. 1644) Richard Lovelace, the cavalier and poet, ((1. 1658) and Wynken de Worde, the famous printer, whose residence was in Fleet Street. RELIGIOUS Enmress. 53 THE TEMPLE CHURCH, Or St. Mary’s, Inner Temple, belongs, in common, to the societies of the Inner and Middle Temple. To the attraction which it has all along possessed for the antiquary, as being one of the olrlest ecclesi- astical structures in the metropolis, this edifice now adds that of novelty for the public, owing to its having been not merely put into thorough repair, but completely renovated internally, and rendered a specimen of church decoration, which has been so very long extinct among us, as to appear quite unprecedented in this country. Its cha- racter is all the more striking, because in direct opposition to what has been considered appropriate for buildings of this class, and for the style of architecture. The western part, or round, is highly in- terestmg, as being one of the earliest specimens of the pointed style of architecture. It was built by the Knights Templars, about 1185, and displays a series of six clustered columns of black Purbeck marble, supporting the same number of pointed arches; over which is a triforium and a elerestory, with semicirclar arches. In the area, on each side, is a series of recumbent effigies of Knights ’l‘emplars; the figure between the two columns on the south-east, having a foliage ornament about the head, and the feet resting upon a lien, is said to represent W illiam Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, (d. 1119) Earl Mar- shall and Protector of England, during theminority of Henry III. The entrance is by a noble Norman doorway deeply recessed, with several ornamental mouldings, forming a broad semicircular arch. The body of the church is of later date, and is one of the purest examples of the style of the thirteenth century. “No building in existence,” says Mr. Cottingham,” so completely developes the gradual and delicate advance of the pointed style over the Norman, as this church, being commenced in the latter, and finished in the highest 13‘. perfection in the former.” It is eighty-two feet in length by fifty- eight feet in breadth, and is formed into a centre and lateral aisles by five arches on either side, corresponding with the same number of TRlFORIUM. triple windows. The breadth of the centre fllSlC is the same as the diameter, or central space of the circular part, whereby a pleasing har- mony is kept up throughout, and unity of plan is combined with great variety of it. The restorations and polychromatic decorations of the interior, have been admirably executed, under the able directions of Mr. Sidney Smirke and Mr. Deeimus Burton, at the expencc of the benchers, amounting to £70,000; and we now see, for the first time, what a Gothic building really was—a structure as pre-eminent for its rich harmonics of colour, as for its beauty of architectural detail and grandeur of architectural design. On entering the western door. the effect is picturesque and imposing; it discloses a fine architectural picture, which, while it delights the eye by its varied perspective, strongly excites the imagination by partially revealing what can be fully enjoyed only on a nearer approach to it. The floor is paved with encaustic tiles, by Minton; and the windows at the east end are filled with stained glass of very harmonious design, by Mr. \Villement. In the triforium, the ascent to which is by a narrow staircase, are numerous monuments, removed from the choir during the restora- tion, amongst which are. those to Gibbon, the historian, (d. 179“ Howell, author of the “Familiar Letters,” (d. 1606). In the burial ground, east of the choir, and without the building, was buried Oliver RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 55 Goldsmith, (d. 1774) a monument to whom is in Poet’s Corner, VVest- minster Abbey, bearing a Latin inscription, by Dr. Johnson, thus translated :— Of Oliver Goldsmith—a poet, naturalist, and historian. Who left scarcely any style of writing untouched, and touched nothing that he did not adorn. Of all the passions, whether smiles were to be moved or tears, a powerful, yet gentle master. In genius, sublime, vivid, versatile. In style, elevated, clear, elegant. The love of companions, the fidelity of friends, and the veneration of readers, have by this monument honoured the memory. He was born in Ireland, at a place called Pallas, (in the parish) of Forney, (and county) of Longford, on the 29th Nov., 1731; educated at (the University) of Dublin; and died in London, 4th April, 1774. The clergyman is appointed by the Queen’s letters patent, without institution and induction, and is called the master. The present master is the Rev. Christopher Benson, who was appointed in 1826. Divine serVice commences on a Sunday at 11 and 3 o’clock. - ST. DUNSTAN’S-IN-THE-WEST. Fleet Street, erected from the designs and under the superintendencc of John Shaw, Esq., F.R.S. and A.S., the first stone having been laid July '27th. 1831. and the building consecrated July 31st, 1833. Its appearance is chaste and elegant, and altogether superior to the old edifice which it replaced. The tower is of Kelton stone, a very su— perior kind of freestone, of beautiful colour, from the county of Rutland. Upon the tower is an enriched stone lantern, perforated with Gothic windows, each angle having a buttress and enriched finial; the Whole being terminated by an ornamental pierced and very rich crown pa- rapet. The height of the tower to the battlements is ninety feet; and the whole height of the tower and lantern is one hundred and thirty feet. The body of the church is of fine brick, finished with stone; it is of octagon form, about fifty feet in diameter, and will hold nine hundred persons. Over the entrance to the parochial schools is placed a statue of Queen Elizabeth, which formerly stood in the west front of Ludgate, and is the only remaining relic of the ancient city gates. The old church will long be remembered by the Londontr, from the two figures armed with clubs that struck the hour; allusion to which is thus made by Cowper, in his “Table Talk :— “ \thn labour and when dulness, club in hand, Like the two figures at St. Dunstan’s stand, Beating incessantly, in measur’d time, The clock-work tintinnabulum of rhyme, Exact and regular the sounds will be, But such mere quarter strokes are not for me.” It escaped the great fire of 1666, was handsomely repaired in 1701, and taken down in 1831. The celebrated Romaine, author of the “ Life, ‘vVal1 , and Triumph of Faith,” was lecturer of this church, to which he was appointed in 1749; and here it was that he first. ex- cited that great degree of public attention, which he ever after held. E 2 53 LONDON. ST. CLEMENT DAN ES, Strand. A handsome structure, chiefly of the Corinthian order; erected in 1680, by Sir Christopher Wren, except the lofty and pic- turesque tower, which owes its present elevation, of one hundred and sixteen feet, to Mr. Gibbs, by whom it was added in 1719; it contains a fine peal of bells, which at the hours of 9, 12, and 5, chime the tune of Hanover. On the north and south sides are domed por- tioos, supported by six Ionic columns. The interior is handsome and commodious, lighted by two stories of windows; the altar is of carved wainscot, of the Tuscan order; and the chancel is paved with marble. In the vestry is a picture, (formerly the altar-piece) some of the figures of which, are said to be portraits of the wife and children of the Pretender. Bishop Berkely, celebrated by Pope as having “ every virtue under heaven,” was buried here; as also the poet Otway, buried under the church, in 1685, and Dr. Kitchener; (d. 1827) a monument is erected to his memory in St. Pancras’ church, New Road. ST. MARY-LE.STRAND, Strand. One of the first of the fifty new churches erected by Queen Anne’s commissioners, from the designs of Mr. Gibbs, the first stone of which having been laid Feb. 25th, 17 I4, and consecrated Jan. 1st., 1723. “ It is,” says W alpole, “ a monument of the piety more than the taste of the nation.” The exterior has a double range of columns one over the other, with entablatures, pediments, and balustrades; and in the intercolumnia- tions there are ornamented niches. The western entrance is by a flight of steps, out in the sweep of a circle, and leads to a circular portico of Ionic columns, covered with a dome, and crowned by an elegant vase. The steeple is of the Corinthian order; and is light though solid. The interior walls are decorated with duplicated ranges of pilasters ; the east end is semicircular. This church stands on the spot, where in former times, stood a famous maypole, made still more famous by its removal in 1718, when it was given, to Sir Isaac Newton, as a stand for his large telescope. Pope makesmhis the locality where the heroes of the Dunciad assemble. “Where the tall maypole once o’crlooked the Strand. But now (so Anne and Piety ordain) A church collects the saints of Drury Lane 1 " ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST, Savoy Street, Strand. in the district called the Savoy. This church is an interesting relic of the ancient palace of the Savoy. It is built in the later pointed style, about 1505, and it still retains in the interior, traces of the decorations which characterize its architecture. The Wiling is slightly curved, and ornamented with carvings of quatrefoils, RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 57 enclosing shields of arms and emblematical devices of our Saviour’s passion, the whole restored with their appropriate blazonry, under the superintendenee of Mr. \Villemont. ~ In 1843 the entire edifice was thoroughly restored, under the direc. m‘. or Mr. Sidney Smirke, as also the beautiful altar screen, originally designed by Sir Reginald Bray, Among the numerous monuments may be noticed the following :— Anne Killigrew, the poetess and painter, immortalized by Dryden, for her beauty, her genius, and her worth :— “ Art she had none, yet wanted none; For nature did that want supply; So rich in treasures of her own, She might our boasted stores defy; Such noble vigour did her verse adorn, That it seemed borrow'd where ’twas only born.” Gawain Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, (d. 1522) a brass in the floor; Dr. Cameron, the last person who was executed on account of the Rebellion of 1745, a handsome monument, by M. L. Watson, erected in 1846; George Wither, the poet, ((1. 1667.) an unrecorded grave; and Richard Lander, the African traveller, ((1. 18:54) a small tablet. ST. PAUL’S, Covent Garden, west side of Covent Garden Market. Built in 1631, by Inigo Jones, in the form of a Vitruvian Tuscan Temple, at the expence of Francis Earl of Bedford, at a cost of £4,500, as achapel of ease to St. Martin’s-in-the-l<‘iel(ls, and afterwards made parochial. Onslow, the speaker, relates, that when the Earl of Bedford sent for Inigo, he told him he wanted a chapel for the people of Covent Garden, “ but,” added he, “ I shall not go to much expence, in short, I would not have it much better than a barn.” “ Well, then,” replied the architect, “ you shall have the handsomest barn in England.” It has a massive portico of the Tuscan order, and has, no doubt, its admirers: Leigh Hunt says it is one of the most pleasing structures in the metro- polis; whilst many will pmbably agree with \Valpole, who tells us he could see no beauty in it; “ the barn roof over the portico,” he says, “strikes my eye with as little idea of dignity or beauty as it could do if it covered nothing but a barn.” Allan Cunningham says it is “a work of extreme simplicity, but no magnificence: there is a naked accuracy of proportion—a just combination of parts; but the coarse and savage Tuscan requires collossal dimensions to rise into grandeur.” In 1796, it was destroyed by fire, owing to the carelessness of some plumbers, who were repairing the roof. “When the flames were at their height, ” says Malcolm, “ the portico and massy pillars made a grand scene, projected before a back—ground of liquid fire, which raged with so much uncontrollable fury, that not a fragment of wool in or near the walls escaped destruction.” It was rebuilt by Mr. llardwiek, on the plan and in the proportions of the original design. 68 LONDON. The following are a few of the eminent persons buried here :— Grinling Gibbons; (d. 1721) Samuel Butler, author of “ Hudibras ; ” (d. 1680) Sir Peter Lely, the celebrated portrait painter; (d. 1680) )Villiam )Vyeherly, author of the “Plain Dealer;” (1. 1715) Thomas Southerne, author of “ Oronooko ;” (d. 1746) John Taylor, the Water Poet; (d. 1654) Dr. \Valcot, the memorable “ Peter Pindar;” (d. 1819) Charles Macklin, the actor and dramatist: small tablet, (d. 1797) aged 107; Thomas King, the original Sir Peter Teazle; (d. 1805) \Vilks, the actor; (d. 1731) Joe Haines; (d. 1701) Mrs. Davenport; Michael Kelly; Closterman, the painter; (d. 1701) Dick Estcourt; (d. 1711) Dr. Arne, the musical composer; (d. 1778) John Zachary Kneller; Sir Robert Strange, the engraver; (d. 1792). The clock was made by Richaid Harris, of London, in 1641, and was the first long pendulum clock erected in Europe. ST. MARTIN’S-lN-THE-FIELDS, St. Martin’s Lane. Erected between the years 1721 and 1726, at a cost of £36,000; “and we may safely ask,” says Mr. Allan Cunningham, “ Whether any thing so good has been erected since for double the money.” It is from designs by Mr. Gibbs, on the site of a church which was taken down in 1721. The first stone was laid by Kino George 1., who gave the workmen a hundred guineas, and when th: work was nearly finished, presented the parish with £1,500 for an organ. At the west end is a portico, which, for utility, compact beauty, and perfect «unity of combination, is unsurpasscdvin the me- RELIGIOUS Empress. 59 tropolis: it consists of six Corinthian columns in front, and two on the return, supporting a pediment. The cornlce and entablature, crowned by a balustrade, are continued along the Sides of the church, together With pilasters to correspond with the columns. The tower is surmounted by a fine spire ; the whole forming a noble work, not un- worthy of \Vren, in his brightest days; and almost justifies the high eulogium of Savage, in the “ Wanderer: ” “ O Gibbs! whose art the solemn fane can raise, \Vhere God delights to dwell and man to praise.” The interior of the church is a perfect picture of architectural beauty, and neatness of accommodation. Columns, of the Corinthian order, support an elliptical arched roof; a form supposed to be par- ticularly adapted to assist the diffusion of sound. “All the parts are nicely distributed; and nothing can be added, and nothing can be taken away. It is complete in itself; and refuses the admission of all other ornament.” In the vestry-room is a well executed’model of the church; also portraits of the incumbents since the year 1670, and a bust of Dr. Richards. Here was buried the frail, but warm- hearted Nell Gwynne; (d. 1687) and in the church-yard, Roubiliac, the great sculptor, (d. 1762) whose funeral was attended by Hogarth and Reynolds; Jack Shepherd; (hanged 1723) Farqhuar, the dram- atist; (d. 1707) John Hunter, the celebrated surgeon, and founder of the Hunterian Museum; (d. 1793) Charles Bannister; (d. 1804) James Smith, one of the authors of the “Rejected Addresses;” (d. 1839) and Robert Boyle, the philosopher; (d. 1691). ST. ANNE’S, Dean Street, Soho. This church was built by Mr. Hakewell, in 1686, when the parish was separated from that of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, and dedicated to St. Anne in honour of the Princess, afterwards Queen Anne. It is chiefly remarkable for its tower and spire, erected by the late S. P. Cockerell Esq., in 1806, “ Without exception the ugliest in London,” surmounted by a large ball, containing a clock with four dials. At the east end is a stained glass window and paintings of Moses and Aaron. In the church, amongst numerous monuments may be noticed tablets to the memory of Sir John Macpherson, Governor— General of India; (d. 1820) and Aaron Arrowsmith, geographer. In the cemetry, behind the church, was interred Theodore, the un- fortunate king of Corsica, who having been compelled to fly his king- dom, was confined for debt in the King’s Bench; but obtained his release through the interference of Horace Walpole, when he made over the kingdom of Corsica for the benefit. of his creditors. He died in 1756, and would have been buried as a parish pauper, but for the kindness of John W right, an oilman, in Compton Street, Who .de- clared, that for once he would bear the funeral cxpences of a king, 6( LONDON. which he accordingly did. Walpole wrote the following epitaph For him :— “The grave, great teacher! to a level brings Heroes and beggars, galley slaves and kings ; But Theodore this moral learned ere dead—- Fate poured its lesson on his living head, Bestowed a kingdom and denied him brcat .” Here also was buried \Villiam Hazlitt, the essayist; (d. 1830.) - _ ST. JAMES’S On the south side of Piccadilly, nearly opposite to Sackville Street; (the longest street in London, with no turning out of it) built by Sir Christopher \Vren in 1684, at the expence of Henry J ermyn, after- wards Earl of St. Albans, husband of Henrietta Maria, widow of Charles I.,is aplain edifice, with rusticated stone quoins and architraves. The harmony of proportion in the interior is, however, truly admirable; it being equally admired for its commodiousness, beauty, and in- genuity of construction. It is in the Basilical style, and is divided into a nave and two aisles, by a double range of Corinthian columns, placed on square panelled piers, which serve also to support the gal: leries. From those pillars spring a semicircular arched roof, divided into sunk and enriched panels, and intersected by arches, which run through to the external walls. “ The construction of this root,” says Mr. Elmes, “is singularly ingenious and economical both of room and materials; and it is not too great praise to say, that it is the most novel, scientific, and satisfactory, as to results, of any roof in ex- istence.” Over the altar is some exquisite wood earvin g of fruit and foliage, by the celebrated Grinling Gibbons: the elaborate font, of white marble, which stands in the middle aisle, is also by the same artist; it is supported by a column, representing the tree of life, with the serpent twining round it: on the basin is a representation of the baptism of Christ, in the river Jordan, and two other scriptural subjects. The line organ made for James 11., and intended by him for his Popish chapel at \Vhitehall, was presented to the church by his daughter Mary, when Queen Mary 11. The Venetian window was filled with stained glass, by \Vailes of Newcastle, in 1816. Here were buried Dr. Alienside, the author of “Pleasures of the Imagination;” Charles Cotton; ((1. 1687) Huysman, the painter; (d. 1696) Tom D'Urfey, the wit and poet of the time of Charles ll. : (d. 1723) a plain stone to his memory is afiixed on the south side of the tower. There is also a tablet in honour of Dr. Sydenham; (d. 1689) the two Valdervelde’s, the eldest 0t whom died 1693; Dahl, the painter; (d. 1743) Dodslcy, the footman and bookseller; (d. 1797) Gilray, the celebrated caricaturist; (d. 1815) Harlowe, the painter; (d. 1819) and Sir John Malcolm; (d. 1836) whose monument. is in the north transept of Westminster Abbey. In the vestry are portraits of the rectors, well worthy of notice. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 6'! CHAPEL ROYAL, Whitehall. This noble room, forty feet high, formerly the banqueting- hall, was converted by George I. into a Chapel Royal, in which service is performed every Sunday morning and afternoon. Over the door is a bust of the founder, James I. A lofty gallery runs along the two sides of the room, and across the end over the entrance door, where there is a fine organ. But the great point of attraction is its ceiling, INTERIOR OF CHAPEL ROYAL. with its 891168 of paintings by Rubens. The largest, in the centre, 'ot' an oval form, represents the apotheosis of King James L, which is treated in nine compartments. On the two long sides of it are great friezes, with genii, who load sheaves of corn and fruit in carriages, drawn by lions, bears, and rams. Vandyck was to have painted the sides with the history of the Order of the Garter. The execution of particular parts is much to be admired for its boldness and success. ' 'hese paintings were re-touched a few years since by Cipriani. All the proportions are so colossal, that each of these boys measures nine feet. The other two pictures, in the centre row, represent King James as Protector of Peace, and, sitting on his throne, appointing prince Charles as his successor. The four pictures at the sides of these con- tain allegorical representations of royal power and virtue; and which, immediately the spectator enters the room, attracts his eye by their brilliant and harmonious colouring. Their great height, however, renders any close and accurate inspection impossible. 62 l 1 0NDON. ST. MARGARET’S, \Vcstminster. Situated on the n01 th side of \Vestminste1 Abbey. It was rebuilt 111 the reign of EdwaId I. ,(on the site of a church erected by Edward the Confessor, in 1064) by the 11111 1sh1one1s and merchants of the staple, except the chancel, 11l1ich was e1ected at the charge of the Abbot of \Vestminster, in 1307. I11 1735, it was repaired, and the .tower cased at an expence of £3,500, granted by Parliament, it being considered a national foundation for the use of the House of Commons, the members, 011 all particular occasions, attending divine service therein, as the Peers do in \Vcstminster Abbey. In 1758 it. was again repaired at the public charge, as also in 1803, under the direction of the late Mr. Coekerell. when a richly ornamented pulpit and desk, with a new organ, and a chair for the Speaker of the House of Commons w as added. Since that time the i11ter1,101 11 hieh is spacious and elegant, has been completely 1e— —edified by J. H. '1113 101', Esq. , but thee most interesting object is the may beautiful stained glass window, at the east end, Dmade by o1dei of the magistiates of D01t, in Holland, and designed by them as a present to rV'1'Heni_1 V II for his new chapel in \V estminster Abbey; but the king d_1' 111g bcfme it could be erected, it was given by Henry VIII. to \Valtham Abbey, in Essex, where it remained till the dissolution of that monastery. At the Re- formation, it was 1emo1' ed to New Hall. Essex, and afte11v111ds became successively the pi opeity of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, ()li1er Cromwell, and General Monk; at length, in 1751, it 11113 pdichased by John Conyeis, Esq. ., and by him r—e —sold to the pa1ishionc1s for 400 guincas, 11 here it 11 as placed in its pi esent situati.on The figures, 11hich aie 11u1ne1ous, am extremely fine; and in addition to C'that of our Sav 1o11r, them is a 1ep1esent11tion ot the two thieves reaping the dif- ferent 1ewa1ds of their obstinacy and penitence: a fiend is seen bearing of? the soul of the hardened thief, while an angel waits to receive that of the penitent. 'l‘he subordinate figures consist of the two Marys; the Roman centurion, mounted 011 a spirited charger, finely executed; St. George of Cappadocia; Catherine, the Martyr of Alexandria; Henry VII. and his Queen: and other auxiliaries, which are Well grouped, and have a stiiking etl'eet. Beneath this window is a cuiious representation of 0m “ ba110u1smeeting at E inmaus.” At the extremity of one of the side aisles 1s a tablet, with the fol- lowing inscription. '— \Vithin the walls of this church 11 as deposited the bodv of the great Sir W alter Raleigh, Knt., 011 the day he 1111s beheaded 111 Old Palace Yard, VI est- minster, Oct. D.18t.h, Ann. Dom. 1618. —- Reader, should 3ou icflect on his errors, Remembei his many 1i1tues, And that he 11115 a 11101 tal " Here, also, was buried, \Villiam Caxton, (11.1491) the intioduecr of printing into England; a neat tablet. to his 111011101 1' has been placed in the. chur,eh b3? the Roxbm 1111 Club; John Skelton, poet laureate to Heniy VIII.; (d. 15 29) 11011111, the e11g"111.1're ; (d.167 7) and se1'1e rai othei eminent peisons of less note. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 63 ST JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Milbank, “restminster. Ereeted in 1728, from designs by Mr. Archer, It is a stone structure, having on the north and south sides porticos, with .Doric columns, and open pediments. At the angles of the roof are four circular towers, with Ionic pillars; and there as well as every part of the building are much ornamented. This was the first church, or public building in London, that was lighted with gas. ST. MARY’S, Lambeth “’i‘ilk. This church is remarkable as having afforded a tem- porary shelter from the rain to Maria D’Este, Queen of James 11., ' who, after crossing the water from \Vhitehall, remained here on the night of December 6th, 1688, till a coach took her to Gravesend. ‘ The tower, which is eighty-seven feet high, was erected in 17%, and the body- of the church about the close of the fifteenth century. In one of the windows is the figure of a pedlar, and his dog, who be- queathed to the parish a piece of land, still known as Pedlar’s Acre. 1n the south aisle is the monument of the celebrated antiquary, Elias Ashmole; and in the chancel several of the Archbishops of Canterbury. The church-yard contains the tomb of the Tradescants, founders of the Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford, erected in 1652, and restored at the expense of the parish in 1773, when the following inscription, origin- ally intended for it, was engraved uponthe stone :— Know, stranger, ere thou pass, beneath this stone Lye John Tradescant, grandsire, father, son; The last died in his spring; the other two Liv’d till they had travell’d Art and Nature thro' ; As by their choice collections may appear, Of what is rare, in land, in sea, in air : \Vhilst they (as Homer’s Iliad in a nut) A world of wonders in one closet shut : These famous Antiquarians, that had been Both gardeners to the Rose and Lily Queen; Transplanted now, themselves, sleep here, and When Angels shall with their trumpets waken men, And fire shall purge the world, these hence shall rise, And change this garden for a paradise. ST. PHILIP’S, Regent Street. Ereeted from the designs of Mr. S. Repton, at a cost of £15,000. The first stone having been laid May 15th, 1819, and the chapel consecrated July 4th, 1820. It is distinguished by a peristyle portico of the Italian Doric order, surmounted by a pedi— ment, behind which rises a lofty campanile, copied from the monu- ment of Lysicartes, better known as the lantern of Demosthenes. 54 LONDON. ST. GEORGE’S, Hanover Square. Erected in 1724, from the des1gns of Mr. John James. It has a noble portico of six Corinthian columns, supporting an entablatnre and pediment above: behind which, is a turret. orna- mented With columns, and terminating with a dome. 'l he steeple is good and majestic; but. the interior is heavy, and is said to “ exhibit a total disregard of all the rules of architecture.” This is one of the richest livings in London; and to obtain which. the celebrated Dr. Dodd, offered to Lady Apsley, a bribe of £3,000. The altar- piece, representing the Last Supper. is by Sir James 'l‘hornhill. The ground for the edifice was given by Lieutenant—Geneml Steward, who also left £4,000 to the parish, towards erecting and endowing a charityr school. In the burial ground, belonging to this churh near Bavswater, are inferred Lawrence Sterne, the wit and divine; [d. 1768] and Sir Thomas Picton, who fell at \Vaterloo. Here are usually celebrated the most aristocratic and fashionable marriages in the metropolis. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 65 ALL—SOULS, Langham Place, Regent Street. Erected in 1824, from designs by Mr. N ash. The steeple consists of a circular tower, surmounted by a cone: the tower rests on a flight of steps, and the lower part is sur- mounted by a peristyle of twelve Ionic columns, the capitals of which are profusely ornamented. The base of the cone, which is fluted and carried to a point, is also surrounded by a peristyle, consisting of fourteen Corinthian columns, supporting an entablature and balus- trade. The church itself, is a plain building, cased with stone, lighted by two tiers of windows, and finished with a balustrade. The interior is pleasing: three sides are occupied by galleries, resting upon oct- angular pillars, and the fourth by the altar, over which is a painting, by Richard VVestall, R.A.,—Christ crowned with Thorns. Above the front of the galleries, rises a colonnade of Corinthian columns, sup- porting the ceiling, which is enriched with sunk panels. This church has been the subject of much criticism; and the spire, not, unlike an extinguisher, has been the cause of considerable ridicule being cast upon the_ architect. ST. MARY.LE-BONE—OLD CHURCH, High Street, Mary—le-bone. Built on the site of a former edifice, in 1741, and used as the parish church, until the erection of the new church, in 1818; since which time, it. has been considered as a chapel of ease to that edifice, and called by way of distinction, the “ parish chapel.” In the church is a tablet to Gibbs, the architect of St. Martin’s- in—the-Fields; (d. 1754) and in the church-yard adjoining, are monu- ments to James Fergusson, the astronomer; (d. 1766) and Charles “resley, the younger brother of the Rev. John \Vesley; (d. 1788). Here, also, lie interred, Edmund Hoyle, author of the Treatise on VVhist; (d. 1769) aged 00; Rysbrack, the sculptor; (d. 1770) Allan Ramsay, the portrait painter, son of the author of the “Gentle Shepherd; ” (d. 1784) J. D. Serres, the marine painter; (d.1793) and George Canning, father of the statesman. ST. MARY-LE-BONE, New Road. Erected in 1813-1817, from the designs of Thomas Hardwick, Esq., at a cost of the extravagant sum of £60,000. The portico consists of six Corinthian columns, supporting a plain pedi- ment. The tower is decorated with figures representing the Winds; and the interior, which is spacious, is fitted up with a double gallery. The altar-piece representing the Holy Family, was painted by Ben- jamin West, P.R.A., and presented by the artist. Here is a tablet to Richard Conway, ILA. ; (d. 1821). In the vaults was buried James Northcote, R.A.; (d. 1831). 66 LONDON. ST. PANCRAS’ NEW CHURCH, Euston Square, New Road. A very handsome and elaborate structure, erected at a cost of £78,000, from the designs of Mr. Inwood; the first stone having been laid by the Duke of York, July 1st, 1819, and the church consecrated by the Bishop of London, April 7th, 1822. It has a beautiful portico of six Ionic columns, copied from the Erecth- eium at Athens; and at the east end, two side porticos of Cary-atidcs, designed for the registry and vestry room. The steeple, or tower, although built in resemblance of the Temple of the lVinds, has a mean and inelegant appearance. The interior is spacious, but wants eleva~ tion, which detracts from its noble proportions; the galleries are supported by pillars copied from casts of the Elgin marbles; and at the east end are six verd-antique seagliola columns, with bases and capitals of white marble. The pulpit and reading desk were formed out of the venerable Fairlop oak, blown down in 1820, which stood in Heinault forest, and gave name to the well-known Fairlop fair. Gilpin, in his “ Forest Scenery,” mentions this tree: he says, “the tradition of the country traces it half way up the Christian era.” In the church are tablets to Dr. Kitchener; (d. 1827) Dr. James Moore, “ 32 years Vicar of this extensive parish, through whose ex- ertions this church was erected,” (d. 1818) and Dr. Mason Good; (d. 1826). RELIGIOUS Empress. 6'? O! “'""””I 1 I “My ., w. Wi-l I J; '3‘...‘fir. 5' —.‘ *"I — " - l. A iii—Wt“- .=___._—_—_—_-¢___=='j _.__ fl: _ M 9‘ - Ai ST. GEORGE’S, Hart Street, Bloomsbury. Erected at the public expence, and conse- crated in 1731. It was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Sir Christopher 'Wren, and has a magnificent portico of the Corinthian order. with a pyramidal steeple. surmounted by a statue of George 1., to Whose name-saint it is dedicated; a circumstance rather happily alluded to in the well-known epigram— When Harry the Eighth left the Pope in the lurch, The people of England made him head of the church; But much Wiser still, the good Bloomsbury people, Stead of head of the church, made him head of the steeple. The steeple, which has found an endearing remembrance in the back-ground of Hogarth’s Gin-lane, is constructed on the model of tne tomb of Mausolus, King of Caria, at Halicarnassus, as described by Pliny. Walpole says, “ the steeple is a master-stroke of absurdity, consisting of an obelisk,, crowned with the statue of George 1., and hugged by the royal supporters.” In the western gallery is a. monument by Bacon, in memory at Charles Grant, Esq, erected in 1825, at the -:;pcz:ce of the East India 68 LONDON Company; and near it is a tablet in honour of Chief Justice Mans- field; (d. 1793) whose monument, by F laxman, is in the north tran- scpt of Westminster Abbey. Here, also, was buried Joseph Planta, (d. 1827) chief librarian of the British Museum; and Munden, the actor; ((1.1832). ST. GlLES’S-IN-THE-FIELDS, Situated on the South side of the High Street, Bloomsbury. Erected nv contract for £8,000, by Henry Flitcroft, in 1733. The exterior is of Portland stone, and is plain and striking, with a light and graceful tower rising from the roof, in ranges of Doric and Ionic pillars, and terminating in a spire. The interior is a happy combination of ele- ganee and simplicity, having an arched ceiling, supported by Ionic pillars. The entrance gateway to the church—yard, or Lichv-gate, was erected from the designs of William Leverton, Esq., over which is a curious bas-relief of the Resurrection, set up on the gate of the old church, and supposed to have been executed in 1687. Here were buried the following eminent personages: George Chap- man, translator of Homer; ((1. 1634) James Shirley, dramatist; (d. 1666) Philip Stanhope, first Earl of Chesterfield; (d. 1773) Rich- ard Pendcrell, of Boscobel, by whose aid Charles II. escaped after the battle of Worcester; ((1. 1671) Andrew Marvell, the inflexible patriot; 3d. 1678) Lady Frances Kirton, grand-daughter of Robert Earl of Jeicester; (d. ) Lord Herbert, of Cherbury; (d. 1648) The pro- fiigate Countess of Shrewsbury; (d. 1702) and Sir Roger L’Estrange; (d. 1704). In the burial-ground of this parish, adjoining to old St. Pancras’ church, is an altar—tomb, beneath which lie the remains of the sculptor, Flaxman, (d. 1826) his wife, and sister. Here, also, distin- guished by two tall cypresses, is the tomb of Sir John Soane, architect and founder of the Soanean Museum; ((1 1837). ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT, wWest Smithfield. The remains of a conventual church. belonging to a priory of Black Canons, founded in 1102, by Rahere, a minstrel in the court of Henry I.: it consists of a choir and transept, and is built in the Norman style of architecture, with semicircular arches, and supported by massive columns. An open triforium, as usual, in- terposes between these and the roof. On the south side is a eiu‘ious minstrel gallery, and at. the north-east angle of the interior, is the canopied tomb, with efligy of Rahere, the first prior of this foundation; the preservation of which is insured by a bequest for that purpose. Near to this tomb is a spacious monument to the memorv of Sir \Valter Mildmay, under chancellor of the exchequer, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth and founder of Emanuel College, Cambridge(d. 1589). RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. (39 ST. GILES’S, Cripplegate, south-west corner of Fore Street. Built, about 1546; and - one of the few churches in the city which escaped the Great Fire. It was repaired, and the roof raised in 1791. It is of the pointed, or English style of architecture; 174 feet in length, 62 feet in breadth, and 32 in height. _ It has a large and lofty square tower, with a pin- nacle at each angle, and a low clochier in the centre. Within the tower are thirteen bells, a larger peal than in any other church in London. The chimes werearranged by Mr. Harman, a working cooper, who is said not to have known a note of music. This church is more remarkable as the burial-place of several emi- . nent men, than for its architectural pretensions: here rest the remains of Fox, the Martyrologist; (d. 1587) Sir Martin Frobisher; ((1. 1594—5) Speed, the historian; (d. 1629) and the poet Milton; ((1. 1674) to Whom, a monument, surmounted by a bust, b the elder Bacon, _was erected at the expense of Samuel Whitbread lésq. . In this church, Oliver Cromwell, then in his twenty-first year, was married to Elizabeth Bouchier, August 20th, 1620. Part of the ancient city wall is still remaining on the south and east sides of thelchurch yard, particularly one of the bastions, which is close against the hack part of Barber’s Hall, Monkwell Street. F 70 LOND1 1N. a H‘— , flwfl-fi .W—%» fl—kN‘fi — RAE—”m ,_ (F _ h _. 1‘ - - “Inmmm1 ST. MICHAEL’S, St. Michael‘s Alley, Cornhill. Rebuilt after the Great Fire. 111' bit Christopher ‘Vren, 111 1672. The inter110‘ is light and connnodions. Its lofty tower 130 feet high, to the top of the pinnacles, 151111 humble imitation ot Magdalen College. Oxford; it was icbnil: also bv \'\ 1m in 1722; and, at. a distance, is one of the most striking: Oinznnents ot the city. For scientific constiuetion it. is minivallcd 01 its kind. hut it sanother evidence of \V 11111511 11111 of feelingr 101 the bee uties cha- incter, and stVle of the ancient ecclesiastical 111 chite tine 01 l 11<,:l:111d. and of the stiong classical 1111s of his 11111111 In the old ch iireh 11 as hniied Aldeiman Robert F: 1111111, the 211111101 of the “ Chi omeles of England and Fiance; (d. 1511.). R “10.535 EDIFICES. 71 “1&3: ' H.CARTE.E. ST. PETER-AD-VINCULA, Situated within the Tower of London, at the north-west corner of N orthumberland Walk, near the Waterloo Barracks. The interior consists of a nave, chancel, and north aisle; the pier columns are early English, but the Whole edifice has been so sadly disfigured by successive restorations, additions, and alterations, that but little remains of the original buildino'. “I cannot refrain,” says Mr. Macaulay, “from expressing my disgust at the barbarous stupidity which has transformed this interesting little church into the likeness of a meet- ing-house in a manufacturing town. * * In truth there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemetery. Death is there associated—not as in \Vestminster Abbey and St. Paul’s—with genius and virtue; with public veneration, and imperishable renown; not, as in our humblest churches and church-yards, with everything that is endear- ing in social and domestic charities, but with whatever is darkest in human nature, and in human destiny; with the savage triumph of implacable enemies; with the inconstancy, the ingratitude, the cow- ardice, of friends; with the miseries of fallen greatness, and blighted 'ame.’ Here lie buried the following illustrious persons :—Gerald Fitz- Gerald, ninth Earl of Kildarc, and Lord Deputy of Ireland; ((1. 1634) Sir Thomas i'IOl‘C; (beheaded 1535). In front of the altar, Queen Anne Boleyn, and her brother, Lord Rochford; (beheaded 1535) Queen Catherine Howard; (beheaded 1542) the venerable Margaret, Countess of Salisbury; Thomas Cromwell, Ea‘l of Essex; (beheaded 1540) Thomas, Lord Seymour, of Sudley, Lord High Admiral; (beheaded 1549) by an order from hisbrother, the Protector, Somerset, who 111m- self died on the same seafi’old, 1552; Lady Jane Grey, and her husband the Lord Guildford Dudley; (beheaded 1553-4); buried 72 LONDON. under the Communion Table, the Duke of Monmouth, son of Charles IL; (beheaded 1685) under the western gallery, the headless corses of John Dudle , Earl of Warwick and Duke of Northumberland; beheaded 1553 Lords Balmerino and Kilmarnock; (beheaded 1746) imon Lord Lovat; (beheaded 1747) Colonel Gurwood, editor of the Wellington Despatches; (d. 1846). In the floor of the nave is an inscribed stone over the remains of Talbot Edwards, Keeper of the Regalia,in the Tower, at the time when Blood stole the crown; (d. 1674). ST. HELEN’S, . Bishopsgate Street, is a singularly quaint and picturesque structure, and is one of the few London churches which escaped the Great Fire. Three years before that event, Hatton informs us (1708) “it had upwards of £1,300 laid out in the repairing and beautifying thereof: it was last repaired, and the small tower built, in the year 1609.” It is but a fragment of the original structure, consisting of a nave and side aisle only. The spot has been sacred ground for ages; for here was a priory of black nuns, founded before the reign of Henry 111., by William Basing, Dean 'of St. Paul’s; and another‘ William Basing, one of the Sheriffs in the second year of Edward II. It contains a series of antique open seats ; a beautiful Elizabethan pulpit ; and an exceed— ingly curious and beautiful series of monuments, among which may be mentioned those of Sir John Crosby; (d. 1475) and his wife; the inhabitants of the celebrated Hall adjoining, a building immortalized by Shakspeare; of Sir John Spencer; (d. 1594) Sir Thomas Gresham, the founder of the Royal Exchange ; d. 1579) Sir \Villiam Pickering ; (d. 1542) William Bond, a friend of i‘esham, and “flower of mer- chants,” as his epitaph tells us; ((1. 1576) and his son, Martin, who was “ captain, in the year of 1588, at the camp at Tilbury ; ” (d. 1643) with many other London worthies. ST. LEONARD’S, Shoreditch. Erected about 1735, from designs by the elder Dance. It is a plain brick building, with stone front, and spire, about seventy feet in height; the west front has a Dorie portico, consisting of four Doric columns, surmounted by a triangular pediment. “The steeple is a handsome imitation of Bow, without. any servility, and for con- struction, is scarcely inferior to that of \Vrcn,” The cast window is filled with stained glass, representing the Lord’s Supper, the Recon- ciliation of Jacob and Esau, Jacob’s Vision, and Jacob at prayer. This church, from its situation, became the last resting place of many of the early actors: amongst others here buried, may be named Will Somers, Henry VlII.’s jester, (d 1560) a portrait of whom may be seen at Hampton Court; (No. 313) Richard Tarlton, the famous actor; (d. 1588) Richard Burbage, the original actor of Shakspeare’s Richard 11L; ((1. 1688-9). -1 C0. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. IROMAN CATHOLIC stances. The religious edifices devoted to the pomp and ceremonial of the R0- man Catholic worship, possessing architectural attractions, are not numerous. In consequence of the existence of certain orthodox in- fluences, which, until recently, have precluded the Roman Catholics from the use of sculptural decorations on the exterior of their build- ings, they have been led to lavish the whole of their ornamental decorations on the interior of their temples; some of which are emi- nently deserving of notice; and at most of their chapels, but especially at those undermentioned, the choral performances on Sundays and particular festivals, will afford a rich treat to the lover of sacred music. ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH, St. George’s Fields, Lambeth. This most important structure, founded in 1840, is the largest edifice which the English Roman Catho'lics have erected since the Reformation. It is in the decorated style of Gothic architecture, and is a very satisfactory evidence of the skill of the architect, Mr. Welby Pugin. It consists of a nave and aisles, 8. eat tower, as yet only carried to the height of sixty feet; a chancel, and two chapels, one dedicated to the Holy Sacrament, and the other in honour of the Virgin. The body of the church is cal- culated to hold 3,000 persons. The cost already is said to be £40,000, and it will require at least £100,000 to complete the intended works. The principal entrance is in the great tower, and consists of a deeply moulded doorway, surrounded by a gablet: on either side is a niche. Immediately over the entrance is a great window, of six lights, with rich tracer in the head; each light filled with stained glass, representing St. george, St. Michael, and other saints, under canopies; above the window is a row of niches, which will contain images of angels, with trumpets; while on the stone blocks in the spandrils, will be sculptured the dead arising; and, when the tower is com— pleted, this portion will contain a representation of the Last Judgment. The great window, and the thi ce side windows in the chancel, are filled with stained glass; the floor is paved with encaustic tiles. The furniture of the high altar, including two high-standing candlesticks of brass, supporting coronels of lights; six large candlesticks of brass, ' of hexagonal form ; and a large coronae of iron, painted and gilt with brass enrichments, shields, inscriptions, and crystal knops, are ad-- mirably designed and wrought; indeed it is in these matters that- Mr. Pugin’s chief excellence consists. . The pulpit is hexagonal, supported by marble shafts; the centre one resting on a brse, scuptured with the emblems of the Four Evan- gelists ; on four sides of the body are four bassi relievi, representing Christ’s Sermon on the Mount, St. John in the wilderness, and St. Francis and St. Dominick preaching. Adjoining is a convent for Sisters of Mercy, and a school for three hundred children. , 74 LONDON ____ _ ____ .___ Vi:— ‘ ' , ' ‘ , —ifi;_‘ ‘» -»__ A. ,_ I 33,; :2; - a: , aemrrz 7:725:73?" n ‘m ‘\\\\.\\\\\\‘.‘\ ‘U \ -_—.:.; _-V___—\ r _'—_~_:';" 1 ,nwfl‘lllll \\ ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPELS, B’Ioorfields, corner of East Street, Finsbury Circus. Erected in 1817 from designs by Mr. John Newman, at a cost of £26,000. The front, which is chaste and elegant, faces Liverpool Street, Moorfields, leading to Bishopsgate Street. The facade is divided into five inter-columns, by columns and four pilasters; those at each end, are closed, having doors with panels over them; over the whole is an allegorical sculp- ture of Faith. The portico is approached by a lofty flight of steps. The interior is elegant; the altar being adorned with four marble columns, behind which, is a fresco painting of the Crucifixion, by A. Aglio; and on the ceiling are the Virgin Mary, the Infant. Jesus, and the Four Evangelists; surrounded by the principal events in the life of our Saviour. The altar was presented by the late Pope. Spanish Place, Manchester Square. A chapel belonging to the Spanish Ambmador; erected from designs by Joseph Bonomi, Esq., and much admired for its classical style of architecture. Dining the season, the principal operatic celebrities assist in the solemnization of the services. \Varwicl; Street, Regent Street. Built from the designs of Joseph Bonomi, Esq., on the site of a chapel destroyed during the Gordon riots in 1780. It is attached to the Bavarian embassy, and is de- servedly celebrated for the beauty of its choral services. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 7.5 DISSENTING CHAPELS. Simplicity, and the utmost plainness, are the general characteristics of the chapels of the various denominations of Protestant dissenters; indeed, until very recently, they seem to have eschewed every thing Like ornamental architecture, or beauty of proportion, in their religious edifices :—- - “ Long time the sister art, in iron sleep, A heavy sabbath did supinely keep.” But with the increasing taste for the beautiful in architecture, en- gendered by the restoration to something like their original splendour, of several fine specimens of pointed architecture; and the superior cha- racter of the public buildings erected during the last few years, has excited in them an honourable desire to possess places of religious worship, that should be alike appropriate to the purpose to which they are devoted, and an ornament to the metropolis. The number of Dis- senting chapels are very numerous; 136 belonging to the Inde end— cuts, and 72 to those of the Baptist denomination. We shall now citiee those chapels which from their architectural pretensions, or histo- rical associations. may have the most interest to the casual visitor to the metropolis. —- SURREY CHAPEL, Bla‘ckfriar’s Road. A large brick building of an octagonal form; built and established by the Rev. Rowland Hill, in 1784. It is one of the largest chapels in London, being capable of holding 3,000 persons. It has a very fine organ of extensive power. The present popular preacher is the Rev. Newman Hall. FINSBURY CHAPEL, Bloomfield Street, Moorfields. Erected in 1826, from designs by Mr. Brooks, for the Rev. Alexander Fletcher, after his expulsion from Albion Chapel. Its interior decorations have somewhat too much of a theatrical cast. The pulpit, which is circular, is of the Grecian Ionic order. ALBION CHAPEL, Moorfields; at the east corner of London Wall. A neat and commo« dious building, erected from designs by Mr. Jay. It has a handsome diastyle portico of the Ionic order, and is surmounted by a range of semicircular windows. It was formerly occupied by the Rev. Alex- ander Fletcher, who was removed to the more handsome and spacious chapel above noticed. 76 LON Don TABERNACLE CHAPEL, Tottenham-cou‘rt-road. Erected in 1756, by subscription, under the auspices of the Rev. George Whitfield, and enlarged in 1789. It stands on the site of a large pond, called in the maps of that day “ the Little Sea.” Here are monuments to Whitfield’s wife, and John Bacon, the sculptor; (d. 1799) bearing the following inscription, writ- ten by himself :— “What I was as an artist, seemed to me of some importance while I lived , but What 1 really was as a believer in Christ Jesus, is the only thing of im portance to me now.” Tbe'Rev. J. W. Richardson is the officiating minister. WEIGH HOUSE CHAPEL, Weigh House Yard, Fish Street Hill. A neat and plain edifice, built .on the site of the King’s Weigh House. Here the Rev. T. Binney ofiiciates, and attracts a numerous congregation. Service in the morn- ing on Sundays, and in the evening on Tuesdays. CRAVEN CHAPEL, Carnaby Street, Regent Street, is one of the largest chapels in London, belonging to the Independents: the Rev. J. Leifchild, 1).D., preaches here to a numerous and admiring congregation, and the singing is of a very high character. There are two services here on Sunday, and on Tuesday in the evening. TREVOR CHAPEL, 'Trevor Square, Brompton. A large brick built edifice, with nothing to distinguish it from others of its class. The Rev. J. Morison, D.l)., ofiiciates here, with such effect, as to have twice required its en- largement. On Sunday there are services in the morning and evening, and in the week on the evening of Wednesday. MANOR HOUSE CHAPEL, Camberwell. A handsome building in the perpendicular style, erected i n 1854; the main feature in the effect is given by octagonal turrets crowning two western entrances, terminated each by an open luntenr and crocketted spire. The Rev. J. Burnett is the officiating minister. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 77 O! H llllllnllllllllhm . "I .u' n '7 .2: V : "antral . . ,. I lllllijlll l5 BLOOMSBURY CHAPEL, Bloomsbury Street, Oxford Street. A chapel erected by the members of the Baptist persuasion, in 1848, from designs by Mr. Gibson ; and possessing an elevation of greater architectural importance, than any other chapel belonging to that body, in London. In the towers are staircases leading to the basement and gallery floors ; the whole extent of the former being set apart for two schools, for boys and girls. The galleries occupy three sides of the chapel, with an organ gallery on the fourth. The ceiling is divided into panelled compartments, with a large coved circle in the centre, from which drops a pierced pendant, carrrying a large and handsome chandelier, constructed upon the principle of Professor Faraday’s patent, provision being made for conveying the vitiated air into the upper part of the towers, where it is discharged. The materials of the edifice are white bricks,_with Caen stone dressing. The height of the spires is 117 feet; they are covered with red ornamental tiles, to suit the style. The cost of the building. ex- clusive of the site, was about £8,000. The present pastcr is the Rev. W. Brock, who is highly popular. ON DON. w u * l .mllllwll "llmflumulnr i ll l l l NATIONAL SCOTCH CHURCH, Regent Square, Gray’s Inn Road. An edifice in the Gothic style; erected in 1824, from designs by Mr. Tite; the first stone having been laid July 1st, 1824. The elevation is composed of three leading parts; namely, two towers, over the entrance to the aisles, and a cen- tral part, surmounted by an embattled gable, tha: conceals the roof over the nave. The interior is 100 feet long, and 63 feet broad, and is capable of accommodating 1,800 persons. It was built for the Rev. Edward Irving; and here, during his ministry. the “ Unknown Tongues” were often heard. The Rev. James Hamilton is the present minister. CROWN COURT CHURCH, Crown Court, Little Russel Street, Covent Garden. This church, which was enlarged and restored in 1848, has a, facade of consider- able interest, as an architectural composition, considering the nature of the situation, and the little opportunity afforded to the architect for display. The Rev. J. Cumming preaches here, who, when he entered upon his pastoral charge, some ten years since, had not more than eighty regular hearers; he now has one of the largest congregations in the metropolis. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 79 WESLEYAN CHAPELS.’ .— The chapels belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists are numerous, and are to be met with in all the districts around London. With the exception of three or four recently erected, they however possess but little architectural enrichment. The most important are the following :— CITY ROAD CHAPEL. Erected by the Rev. John Wesley, on the site of the City Cannon Foundry; the first stone having been laid by him in 1777. “ Great multitudes,” says Southey, in his Life of Wesley, assembled to see the ceremony of laying the foundation, so that Wesley could not, without much difficulty, get through the press to lay the first stone, on which his name, and the date were inserted on a plate of brass, ‘This was laid by John Wesley, on April 1st, 1777.’ ‘ Probably,’ said he, ‘ this will be seen no more by any human eye, but will remain there till the earth, and the works thereof, are burnt up.’ ” City Road Chapel, says a recent writer of the Wesleyan body, “is the veritable cathedral of Methodism. Around it sleep in solemn sepulture, many of the most honoured of our fathers, and of the mightiest in the work of the ministry. Many of the beloved friends of Jesus have been laid in that burial ground, who shall rise again triumphantly, at the coming of Christ. There rest the bodies of Wesley and Benson; of Watson and Clarke; of Murlin and Griffith; of Oliver and Moore; and of many others, whose names are found in the record of our most honoured dead. The moral state of that man is not to be desired, who can enter within the gates on the right hand 80 ' ‘ LONDON. of City Road Chapel; and tread the narrow path which leads to the obelisk tomb of the founder of Methodism, behind the building, with- - out solemn thoughts and reflections, and throbs of deep emotion.” In the chapel are tablets to Dr. Adam Clarke; (d. 1832) and Charles Wesley; (d. 1788) “ the first who received the name of Methodist.” QUEEN’S STREET, CHAPEL, Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. A spacious edifice, erected in 1818. A new facade was added in 1841, from designs by Mr. J. Jenkins, which though very narrow, exhibits much taste. It is in the Italian style; and consists of a small Ionic tetrastyle, forming a portico, crowned by a pediment, over which is a single Venetian win- dow set within an arch, and the elevation is finished by a bold and handsome cornicione above, and by rustic quoins at the angles. The interior is chaste and elegant, and has a double gallery. CLERKENWELL CHAPEL, St. John’s Square. Erected in 1849, at a cost of £3,800, to supersede a chapel occupied on lease, in Wilderness Row. It is a large and beautiful building, in the early decorated style of Gothic architecture, capable of accommodating 1,300 persons. The front, which is relieved by two turrets, has a large central window, din'ded into five lights. The interior is in keeping with this style of architecture, having a panelled ceiling; the principals of the roof as far as open, being filled with flowing tracery, supported by spandrils, which spring from stone corbels. ISLINGTON CHAPEL, Liverpool Road, Islington. Erected in 1849, on the Site of the former edifice, destroyed by fire. It is a large and substantial building, in the decorated style of Gothic architecture, of Kcntish rag-stone, with Bath stone dressings and ornaments. The front next Liverpool Road, has a large central window, divided into five lights, with rich flowing tracery in the head. The interior is divided into a nave, and side aisles; the clerestory walls being supported by slender pillars, and pointed arches, and will accommodate 1,000 persons. JEWIN STREET CHAPEL, Jewin Street, Fore Street. Erected in 1847, on the site of an edifice formerly occupied by a congregation of Arians, of which Dr. Rees was the minister. The front has a lancet-headed window of three lights. The interior is neat and commodious. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 81 HOXTON CHAPEL, New North Road. Is in the Anglo-Norman style of architecture; and is one of the most successful attempts made to adapt that more heavy and ponderous style to the wants of a Methodist chapel ; and is highly Creditable to all concerned in its erection. The interior is spacious and open; the seats are divided into a double row in the middle, and a single row at each side. The galleries are comparatively small, and appear well supported and relieved by the thick columns, and bulky ornaments of the Norman style. POPLAR CHAPEL, The exterior is imposing; and is perhaps, the most remarkable of any Methodist chapel yet built. In the front are two octagonal tur- rets, eighty feet high, enriched with canopies, and finished with gables and crockets; the large central Window has five lights, with flowing tracery in the head. ' l The interior is pleasing in its appearance and arrangements. The pulpit and screen behind it are of Caen stone, richly carved. The seats are each finished at the ends with fleur-de-lis; and in the farther gable, is a window of the rose form, filled with stained glass. The ceiling is divided into proportionate compartments, by moulded ribs, ornamented With bosses at the intersections, supported under the principals by carved spandrils, resting on moulded stone corbels. The entire cost of the building has been £5,000. FRIENDS’ MEETING HOUSES. The Society of Friends have several Meeting Houses in London; but, as may be supposed, without any architectural pretensions; their only peculiarity being a studied plainness. The principal one of which, is situated at N o. 86, Houndsditch; Where is also a considerable library of rare works, by Members of the Society. In white Hart Court, Gracechurch Street, was situated the oldest of their Meeting Houses, remarkable as the place where the celebrated George Fox, and the equally celebrated William Penn, the founder of Pensylvania, inculcated their pacific tenets. It was burnt down in 1821, but has since been rebuilt. NEW JERUSALEM CHURCHES. Argyle Square. A very neat and appropriate building ; erected in 1,844. The Rev. Mr. Shaw is the present minister. Cross Street, Hatton Garden. A plain brick edifice: stands on the site of Hatton House, built by the Lord Chancellor of that name. 82 LONDON UNITARIAN 'CHAPELS South Place, Moorfields. A spacious edifice, erected in 1823; and is unorthodox in every respect; dissenting from the true faith of legiti- mate architecture. Its principal front consists of four three—quarters Ionic columns, guarded by two pairs of antze and a remarkably ill- proportioned entablature and pediment, which is surmounted by something like a miniature stack of chimnies. It. is also disfigured by the introduction of dwelling-house windows. Stamford Street, Blackfriar’s Road. Built in 1823, by Mr. Rennie; and is distinguished by a fine Grecian Doric portico, unequalled in London. GERMAN LUTHERAN CHURCHES. 'There are six German chiu'ches or chapels of the reformed religion, belonging to the Germans in London; the principal one of which, is in the district called the Savoy, on the south side of the Sn and, near \Vaterloo Bridge. The exterior is a plain brick building, erected in 1768, on the site of part of the old palace; a J esuit’s chapel belong- ing to which, had formerly been allotted to them by \Villiam III. It has a handsome interior of the Ionic order, designed by Sir William Chambers. GERMAN CHAPEL ROYAL, Situated between Marlborough House and St. James's Palace. Es- tablished by Prince George of De::1nark, at the instigation oi his chaplain, in 1705. It is an elegant building, titted up With great luxury. In the gallery is a seat appropriated to the Royal 'Family, in which the late Queen Dowager nnght frequently be seen. ‘lhe ser- vice commences at half-past eleven o‘clock. DUTCH CHURCH, Austin Friars. The church of the Austin Friars, erected in 13-51, and granted, by Edward VI., in 1550, to the poor Dutch refugees, who (led out of the Netherlands, France, “and other parts beyond seas, from papist persecution.” It has some very good decorated windows ; the librarv attached to it contains some very valuable MSS. and letters cf Calvin, Peter Martyr, and other foreign reformers. RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 83 ’n‘”\ 7‘ _ ”Maximum/r “ “ _ NJ I I: ~\\\ —-—___~ “ ”’"fl'flimm p7,; M. ‘ , .r‘ v—rgz, h - , fl- q'fi—LM— at” ;§1\~.r:-\— 'N‘hJ-léf > ,/—_ ._ ”apwuuvg‘i: 2.; J EWISH SYNAGOGUE. Great St. Helen’s, Bishopsgate Street. Erected in 1838, from designs by Mr. Davies; the first stone having been laid on the 10th of May, 1837. The facade is of Italian architecture, and extends about 110 feet from east to west. The centre is occupied by a spacious open ves- tibule, with coupled Tuscan columns, supporting three arches. Within the vestibule, on either side, are marble lavatories, for the hands, and opposite are three doorways leading to the interior of the building. The interior is highly creditable to the talent and taste of the archi— tect, “ who has here distinguished himself,” says Mr. Leeds, “most advantageously; for it quite eclipses any one of our modern churches, that have any pretensions to be brought in comparison with it; al— though it may fall short of some of them in its dimensions;” of no very great extent; it has an air of spaciousness, and of rich and tasteful elegance, which are quite enchanting. Its length, including the recess, is seventy-two feet; and the extreme width fifty-four feet, or between the fronts of the galleries, thirty-two feet; the extreme height being forty-five feet. The galleries for the women are novel in design, and elegant in execution; the seats are concealed from view, while the handsome railing in front, adds to the architectural effect. ‘ ‘he ark, 'or upper portion of the interior of the synagogue, corres- pending with the Christian altar, is particularly beautiful. The slightly elevated floor is paved with finely-veined Italian marble. In front of the lower portion of the alcove is a rich velvet curtain, emblazoned with a crown, covering the recess containing the books of the law, which are enclosed with doors of solid mahogany. Above are three arched windows, filled with stained glass, of arabesque pattern; the centre one has the name of JEHOVAII, in Hebrew characters, and the 84 LONDoN. tables of the law. On the frieze is inscribed the sentence. KNOW IN WHOSE PRESENCE TIIOU STANDEST. On either side of the ark is an arched panel, containing prayers for the Queen and Royal Family; one in Hebrew, the other in English. The rich decorations—the fruits, flowers, and rosettes, add to the general effect of what is at once beautiful and exquisite, and even a gorgeous specimen of architectural combination. On ordinary occasions, the stranger may enter and observe the singular mode of worship of the Jews; on doing so, he must not re- move his hat; uncovering the head being considered a violation of the sanctity of the place. On Friday evenings, the synagogue is opened for the services that commence the sabbath, which extends from sun- set to sunset. —_ FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCHES. Bloomsbury Street, Oxford Street, formerly in the Savoy. Erected . in 1845, from designs by Ambrose Poynter, architect. , St. Martin’s-le-grand. Founded by Edward IV., and formerly situ- ated in Threadneedle Street. It is a small, neat edifice, having a handsome traceried window at the east end. GREEK CHURCH, London “Hill. The first ecclesiastical structure erected by the Greeks resident in London. The entrance front is divided into two stories by a bold and - enriched moulding; the lower story having an arcade of three arches, opening into a corridor, whence admittance into the church is obtained; and the upper story a similar arcade, containing three windows deeply recessed; above which, is a sunken panel, con- taining a Greek inscription, which may be thus translated :— “During the reign of the august Victoria, who governs the Great people of Britain, and also other nations scattered over the earth, the Greeks sojourning here, erected this Church to the divine Saviour, in veneration of the rites of their fathers.” In addition to the important religious edifices we have described in the foregoing pages, there are some hundreds of churches, chapels, and meeting houses, in which divine selwiee is regularly performed, and which are generally well attended; and whatever may have been the feeling with which a stranger has regarded London, he cannot fail to be struck with the immense number of places of public wor— ship; with the excellent and frequently crowded attendance; and, with the general devotional feeling, and strict sobriety of demeanor, that characterizes the generality of the inhabitants of the metropolis on the Sunday. ' \ / ROYAL PALACES AND MANSIONS or THE NOBILITY. 85 CHAPTER IV. ROYAL PALACES AND MANSIONS OF THE NOBILITY. The pillar’ d dome magnific heaves Its ample roof, and luxury within, Pours out its glittering stores—Thomson. ARCHITECTURE, the queen of the fine arts, attended by her handmaids, Painting and Sculpture, presents herself, by a prescriptive right, to thep n- sideration and regard of the SOVEREIGN. Monarchs can best appreciate ghe utility and importance of this noble art—an art which, in imperial and great works combined, displays the mighty and fascinating powers of Painting and Sculpture—of Music and Poetry—Sir Jo/zn Soane. BUCKINGHAM PALACE, St. James’s Park; the town residence of Her Majesty, formerly called Buckingham House and originally erected by the learned and accom- plished John Sheflield, Duke of Buckingham, the friend and patron of the poet Dryden, in 1703, on the site of what was then called the Mulberry Gardens. Having come into the possession of Sir Charles Sheffield, it was by him sold to George III., in 17 61, for £21,000, and settled on Queen Charlotte, in lieu of Somerset House. Here the whole of her family, excepting the eldest, afterwards GeorgeI V., were born. In 1825, the present edifice was commenced under the direction of Mr. Nash, by the command of His Majesty George IV. ; and after the most lavish and extravagant expenditure, exceeding £600,000, the building was found to be altogether unfit for the pageantries of roy- alty, and but little suited for the residence of the sovereign. George IV. dying during the progress of the work, and William IV. not liking the building, or the situation, it was not occupied until the accession of her present Majesty, when various alterations were found to be necessary to render it inhabitable, which were accordingly made, under the superintendence of Mr. Blore, and the palace at length be- came the residence of the sovereign, July 13th, 1837. In 1847, the accommodation being then found too contracted for her Majesty’s household and_increasing family, the present front, facing the Park, was added by Mr. Blore, in 1848. The new facade, which has more the appearance of a row of modern second-rate mansions, than the palace of the sovereign of this wealthy and powerful empire, is the same length as the garden front. The height to the top of the balnstrade is seventy. G 86 _ 1 LONDON. seven feet, and it has a central and two arched side entrances, (also leading into the quadrangle) the principal floor being intended for a state ball—room, and the necessary Withdrawing rooms. In the centre of the facade is an arch, with a balcony, supported by bold trusses, su1 mounted by scroll work, enclosing a shield, bearing “ V. R. 1847,” and colossal figures of St. George and the D1ag011, and Britannia 111th the British Lion, b1 '1 e1 mouth 01' er the north wing is a group of the Hours, upon a pedestal, having a circle in- tended fora wind dial, flanked with recumbent figures. 011 the. southern wing is a fine statue of Apollo, in the pedestal of which is a circle 101' a clock dial, flanked by Morning and Night; Noon being represented by Apollo. 'lhese two groups fonned part of the original sculptural decoration of the palace. The principal, or garden front, is three hundred and forty-five feet in length, ornamented with statues of Prudence, Temperance, Fo1titude, Faith, Hope, and Charity; and has a terrace of the like extent. Military trophies, and festoons of filowe1s a1c d1st11buted over 1a1'ious par ts of the building, where ornaments have been required to give effect. The enhance hall, though low, is 111111 magnificent; it is paved with var'iegated marble, b01de1 ed 11 ith a scroll of Sienna, ecntr ed 11 ith puce- -colou1ed rosettes ; the walls me of scagliola, and the ceiling is supp01ted b1 101t1-f0u1 white 111a1ble columns with Corinthian capi- tals 01 Mosaic gold. Behind the hall is the Sculpture galle11 , extending the whole length 01 this portion of the palace, 011 each side 01 11 hichb are ranged busts of membe1s of the R01 a1 Fan1il1, and e111- inent deceased statesmen. The sides of the galler1 are ornamented with thirty-two columns, similar to those 111 the ent1 ance hall. In the centre is the door opening into the libraries, three handsome rooms, looking into the. garden; on the right is the staircase leading to the Queen’s 11111 ate apartments; and 011 the left me the Queen’s stud1 , and moms 1‘01 secr'etmies. On the left of the entrance hall is the grand staircase, 1ecently decorated by Louis Gr uner, the steps of which are of 11 lute 111a1ble, and the railings of mahogany and Mosaic gold, leading to the state apa1 tments, 11 t,hich me in the following order — The G1 een D1 a11 ing Room, 48 feet by 35, 1s hu11rr11'1th 1ich damask drape1 y 111th bullion f1 more, d111ded by gilt pilasters. It con- tains p01ti'aits 0f the House of Ha11o1e1, and two valuable cabinets. Here 01 e1 y possible 1a11et1 of green leads the eye—f1om the deepest tint of that colour, displa1 ed 111 the stiiped satin by which the 11 alls are lined and the gorgeous f111111tu1e eo1c1ed—up to the 1 ello11 of the gilt 11 ork, b1 11h1eh the 100111 is p101usel1 01 namented The T11101ie. Roon1,60 feet b1 35, is 1101111 gilt, and hung 11 ith eiiin- son silk, beautilull1 blended 111th an excess of 1'ichl1 gilt ornament; the ceiling 1s magnificently embossed, and the frieze cont 1i11s bassi-1e- lic1i, b1-B'11il1,af'tei designs by Stothard, repiesenting the 11a1s 01 101 k and Lancaster. Inc an ale01c at. the end of the zip-111 t111e11t, iouned by 1110 11 all pillars 1s the i111pe1ial tlnone, su1111ountedb1 a 111011111, b01110 b1 “inged figures, to 11hieh are attached a medallion, exhibiting the l’101 alt3 initials. In this apai tment th 1 meetings of the 11111 Council are held. ROYAL PALACES AND MANSIONS or THE N OBILITY. 87 The Picture Gallery is 164 feet by 28 ; and is lighted by three pa- rallel ranges of sky lights, decorated with tracery and Eastern pendants, having a pleasing'appearance; over the mantel~pieces are carved heads of the great masters of antiquity; and the floor is of panelled oak. The collection of pictures formed by George IV., con- sist principally of choice works of the Dutch and Flemish schools, a few valuable. Italian paintings, and several meritorious pictures by modern English artists. The Yellow Drawing Room is 48 feet by 35, and the most magnifi- cent room in the palace; the Whole of the furniture being elaborately carved, overlaid with dead and burnished gold, and covered with broad striped yellow satin. Against the walls are placed several highly—polished syenite marble pillars, which are matched in colour by the carpet, subduing the effect of the masses of yellow. In each panel is painted a full-length portrait of some member of the Royal "Family. There are also twelve bas-reliefs by the late William Pitts, representing the origin and progress of Pleasure. - The saloon, which is in the centre of the garden front, is 32 feet by 52. Here the decoration is particularly sumptuous; the shafts of the Corinthian columns and pilasters being of purple seagliola, in imita- tion of lapis lazuli; the entablature, cornice, and ceiling, profusely enriched; and all the other decorations and furniture, of correspond- ing magnificence. In this apartment are three friezes, also by Pitts. representing Eloquence, Pleasure, and Harmony. The South Drawing Room, is 68 feet by 35, enriched by columns of crimson scagliola, and three compositions in relief, by Pitts, being the apotheosis of Spenser, Shakspeare, and Milton. The last of the state rooms, is the Dining Room, 68 feet by 35, ‘which is a very spacious and handsome apartment, lighted by win~ dows on one side only, opening into the garden, the spaces between which are filled with immense mirrors. The chief entrances are at the north end of the room; one opening from the ball-room, the other from the picture gallery, a fire place, with an elegant looking glass over it, dividing them. At the southern end is a deep recess, the ex- tremity of which is nearly filled by a large looking glass, in front of which, during state balls or dinners, the buffet of gold plate is an ranged, producing a most magnificent effect. The ceiling is enriched with elaborately moulded foliage and floral ornaments. At the east- ern side are portraits of former members of the Royal Family, and Sir T. Lawrence’s celebrated portrait of George IV., in his coronation robes, formerly in the Presence Chamber, at St. J ames’s. On the south side of the garden front is the Private Chapel, conse- crated March 25th, 1843. by the archbishop of Canterbury. The pillars of this building formed a portion of the screen of Carlton Palace. In the Garden is the Queen’s Summer House, adorned with frescos, illustrating Milton’s Comus, by Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Dyce, Stanfield, Uwins, Leslie, and Ross; the poverty-stricken ornaments and border of which, are by Louis Gruner. The state apartments may be viewed by an order from the Lord Chamberlain, only granted during the absence of Her Majesty. G 2 58 LONDON. ST. JAMES’S PALACE, Pall Mall, facing St. J ames's Street, was built on the site of a hos~ pital for lepers, founded by some pious citizens of London, before the Norman Conquest, dedicated to St. James: and to which purpose it was appi‘ied until the reign of the eighth Harry, who seized its rev- enues, pensioned its inmates, razed the building, and erected the present edifice, from designs by his then favourite, Thomas Ch‘omwell, Earl of Essex. ‘ It is an irregular brick building, without a single external beauty to recommend it, possessing, however, several commodious apart- ments. admirably adapted for state purposes, and used by Her Majesty for holding levees and drawing rooms The entrance from Pall Mall is through an old gate-house, having a clock-tower, one of the few remains of the old building, into a small court, with a piazza on the west side leading to the g ‘and staircase; the buildings are low, plain, and mean; beyond this are two other courts, but which have no pre- tension to palatial grandeur. The state apartments look towards the Park; and this side, though certainly not imposing, cannot be pro- nounced mean ; it is of one story, and has a regular appearance, not to be found in other parts of the building. The state apartments are comniodious and handsome, and are en— tered by a passage and staircase of great elegance. On ascending the staircase is a gallery, or guard-room converted into an armoury; the walls being tastefully decorated with daggers, muskets, and swords. in a variety of devices, such as stars, diamonds, circles, and Vaxzdyek borders. This apartment is occupied by the yeoman of the gufrd, in full costume, on the occasion of a drawing room. The next; roam in this, is the old Presence Chamber, the walls of which are covered ‘wrtll tapestry, in fine preservation; for although it was made for Charles 11., it had never been hung until the marriage of the Prime ROYAL PALACES AND MANsioxs or THE NOBILITY. 89 of W'ales, afterwards George IV., it having lain by accident in a chest, undiscovered until within a short time of that event. In this room, over the fire-place, are some relics of the period of Henry VIII.-; among which may be mentioned the initials “H. A.” (Henry and Anne Boleyn) united by a true-lover’s knot; the fleur-de-lis of France, formerly emblazoned with the arms of England; the port- eullis ot' \Vestminster; and the Rose of Lancaster. From the large bay window of this apartment, Her Majesty Queen Victoria was pro- claimed, on the let of June, 1837. “then a drawing room is held, a person attends in this room, to re- ceive the cards containing the names of the parties to be presented, a duplicate of which is handed to the lord in waiting, to prevent the presentation of persons not entitled to that privilege. From this room entrance is obtained to the state apartments, the first of which, is very splendidly furnished; the sofas, ottomans, 850., being covered with crimson velvet, and trimmed with gold lace. The walls are covered with crimson damask, and the window curtains are' of the same material; here is a portrait of George 11., in his Mbes; paint- ings of Lisle and Tournay; and an immense mirror. reaching from the ceiling to the floor. The apartment is lighted by a chandelier, hanging from the centre of the ceiling, and by candelabras at each end. The second room is fitted up in the same splendid style, and. contains a full-length portrait of George III., in his robes of the Order of the Garter; on each side of him hang paintings of the great naval victories of the First of June, and Trafalgar. From the centre of the ceiling hangs a richly-"chased Grecian lustre, and on the walls are three mag- nificent pier-glasses, the height of the apartment. Mirrors “in which he of Gath, Goliath, might have seen his giant bulk Whole Without steeping, towering crest and all.” The third room is called the Presence chamber; in it Her Majesty holds levees and drawing rooms; although similar in style of deco- ration, it is far more gorgeous than the two described above. The throne, which is on a raised dais, is of crimson velvet, covered with gold lace, surmounted by a canopy of the same material. The state chair is of exquisite workmanship. The window curtains are of crim- son satin trimmed with gold lace. Here are placed paintings of the battles of Vittoria and Waterloo, by Colonel Jones. Behind this apartment, is Her Majesty’s Closet, in which audience is given to foreign ambassadors, cabinet ministers, and officers of state; and beyond this is Her Majesty’s Attiring Room. This edifice was the London residence of our sovereigns from 1697, when ‘Whitehall Palace was consumed by fire, until 1837, when Buck- ingham Palace was first occupied by her present Majesty; the south- eastern wing, occupied by the Duke of'Cambridge, was accrdentally burned in January 1809. Since which tine a part only has been re- built, but it was put into ornamental repair on the accession of George IV., during the years 1821-3. In this palace died Queen Mary 1.; Henry, Prince of \Valcs, eldest son of James 1.; and Caroline, Queen 90 LONDON. of George IL; and here Charles 11., James I1.’s son by Mary of Modena, afterwards known as the Old Pretender, and George the IV. were born The Chapel Royal, has a choral service, at twelx c o ’,clock at which, When In 'lown, the Duke of Wellington 1s a regula1 attendant. By being early, admission may be obtained by a g1 atuity to the attendant a system, in connection With churches, which is happily on the decrease. In the colour court a regiment of Foot Guards parade daily at eleven, accompanied by its band, which plays several favourite pieces of music. Clarence House, in the stable yard, is the present town residence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent, near to which is the office of the Lord Chamberlain. E11:11.11 ‘31" , '7 11111 "' 5 - — 1 . 3 I / '7 . I.L . . 1-, 33‘ .a r':;_'~' ‘ _ « 1 IIIIIIIIIIIIIII‘ . as :‘rfl‘—~‘ - 0‘ ‘ {all L; ll_hl MARLBOROUGH HOUSE, Pall Mall, 11 as built in 1709-10, by Sil Ch1istophei \Vren, foi John Churchill, the g1 eat Duke of \Lu lb01 011011, 011 0*1 ound leased by Queen Anne to the Duchess. It has tao \1 mos adox ncd with rustic stone w01k, and is thus desclibed by Defoe. in a “ Journey through England,” in 1722 “ Marlbo1010ugl1 House, the palace of the Duke of Marlborough, is eve1y way answ an able to the grandeur of its mastei. Its situation is more confined than that of the Duke of Buckingham— shire; but the body of the house much nobler, mo1e compact, and the apaitinents better disposed. It is situated at the west end of the King’s ga1deu on the pa1k side, and fronts the park but with no ROYAL PALACES AND. MANSIONS or THE N OBILITY. 91 other prospect but the view. Its court is very spacious, and finely paved; the offices are large, and on each side as you enter; the stairs, mounting to the gate, are very noble.” Marlborough House was bought by the Crown, in 1817, for the princess Charlotte and prince Leopold, but the princess died before the assignment was effected. The prince, however, (now the King of the Belgians) lived here for several years. In 1837 it was placed in thorough repair, and re- furnished, having been settled upon Adelaide, the late Queen Dowager, 'by act of parliament, by whom it was occupied until her death in 1849. It is now settled upon His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, as his separate residence, so soon as he shall have attained the age of eighteen years; but at present it is appropriated to the dis- play of the Vernon Gallery, until suitable apartments can be had in the National Gallery. Over the entrance is placed her late Maj esty’s hatchment, an heral- dic decoration, usually placed on the morning of interment, on the front of the house belonging to the deceased, and then over the vault, or tomb, after bm'ial. WHITEHALL. The Banqueting House, Whitehall, is one of the earliest and finest specimens of the Italian style, and certainly ranks as one of the most beautiful buildings in the metropolis; it is, however, but afragment of a grand design, by Inigo Jones, for a Royal palace, which had the whole plan been executed in the like spirit, would have been, perhaps, the most magnificent palace in the world. The old palace of Whitehall, occupied a space along the bank of the river, a little to the north of Westminster Bridge, commencing 92. ~ LONDON. where the privy gardens begin, and ending near Scotland Yard. West- ward it extends from the river to St. J ames’s Park, al ng the eastern boundary of Which, many of the various buildings lay, from the Cock- pit, which it included, to Spring Gardens. It was originally the re- sidence of Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, J usticiary of England, under Henry 111., before the middle of the thirteenth century. It after- wards devolved to the archbishop of York, whence it received the name of York Place, and continued to be the town residence of the archbishop till purchased by Henry VIII. of Cardinal \Volsey, in 1530. You Must no more call it York-place, that is past; For, since the Cardinal fell, that title’s lost; ’Tis now the King’s, and call’d—-\Vhitehall.—S/zal;spcare. At this period it became the residence of the court; but in 1697 all was destroyed by accidental fire, excepting the Banqueting House, which had been added to the palace of \V'hitehall, by James 1., according to the extensive and magnificent designs of Inigo Jones, in 1619. This is a noble structure of hewn stone, adorned with an upper and lower range of pillars of the Ionic and composite orders.- the capitals and the opening between the columns of the windows are enriched with fruit and foliage. The roof is covered with lead, and surrounded with a balustrade. The building chiefly consists of one room, of an oblong form, forty feet high; converted by George I. into a Chapel Royal, in which service is performed every Sunday morning and afternoon. A thorough repair of the whole building was undertaken in 1829. In front of this edifice, on the 30th of January, 1618-9, Charles I. was beheaded, on a scaffold erected for the occasion, haying passed to the scene of death through one of the windows. “At this scene,” says \Vhitlock, “ were many sighs and weeping eyes, and numbers strove to dip their handkerchiefs in his blood.” Behind the Banqueting House is a fine bronze statue of James IL, by Grinling Gibbons. KENSINGTON PALACE, Kensington. Situated on the west side of picturesque grounds of about tivo hundred and eight acres. A red brick building, of no particular period, but a heterogeneous mass of apartments, halls, and galleries, presenting, externally, no single feature of architectural beauty; the united effect of its ill-proportioned divisons, being irregular and disagreeable. The original mansion was the suburban residence of the Lord Chancellor Finch, afterwards Earl of Nottingham, but was purchased from his successor by \Villiam III., who found its se— questered situation congenial with his moody and apathetic dispo- sition, and made it a royal residence. By him, at the instigation of his Queen, Mary, it was considerably enlarged, from designs by Sir Christopher \Vren, and surrounded by solitary lawns, and formal, ROYAL PALACES AND MANSIONS or THE Nommrr. 93 stately gardens. Queen Anne considerably enlarged the mansion, and added to the beauty of the grounds. The orangery, a fine detached building, was built by Sir Christopher W'ren. The n01 th-west angle was added by George IL, to form a nursery for his children, and to his queen, Caroline, we owe the introduction of ornamental water into the gardens and pleasure grounds. George III. having made St. J ames’s Palace and Buckingham House the head quarters of royalty; then it was that Kensington Palace, became the occasional or permanent residence of the junior members of the Royal Family, and the gardens, what they have ever since continued—the summer resort and prome- nade ot' the aristocracy, and denizens of the West End. The Palace con- tains a good suite of state apartments, the staircases and ceilings being ornamented with paintings by Kent. The. grand staircase leads from the principal entrance to the Palace by a corridor, the sides of which are painted to represent a gallery crowded with spectators on a court day, in which the artist has introduced into the subject, portraits of himself ; of Ulric, a Polish youth, page to George I. ; 10f the Turks, Mahomet and Mustapha, two of his attendants; and Peter, the Wild Boy. In Kensington Palace, the late Duke of Sussex resided for many years; and here it was he formed his valuable and extensive library of theological works, disposed of since his death; but that which gives it the greatest interest, is the circumstance of its having been the re- sidence of the Duke and Duchess of Kent, and the birth-place, in 1819, of her present Majesty, Queen Victoria, who in the seclusion of its privacy, spent the greater part of her youthful days; and here, on her accession to the throne in 1837, was held her first council. The 'fine collection of paintings which it once contained, has been dispersed, and are now to be found principally at Hampton Court. \Villiam 11L, Queen Mary, Queen Anne, her consort Prince George of Denmark, George 11., and the Dukes of Kent and Sussex, all died here. —-—-—_.. LAM BETH PALACE, The town residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, is an irregular pile of building, situate on the south bank of the Thames, nearly op- posite lVestminster Abbey. Having been erected at difi'erent periods, it displays various kinds of architecture. A considerable portion dates as far back as the thirteenth century. The corners of the edifice are faced with rustic work; and the top is surrounded with a battlement. In the banqueting-room, which has an old carved ceiling, are the portraits of all the primates, from Archbishop Land to the present time. The hall—a noble room—forming part of the old palace, has been converted into a library, which was founded by Archbishop Bancroft, in 1604, and increased at successive periods by Archbishops Abbot, J uxon, Laud, Shelden, Tennison, and Seeker, till the number of volumes now exceeds twenty-five thousand: in addition to which 9 l ' LONDON. / c. -., , twill: >~ - "' ‘7' " 2.. . LAMBETH PALACE. are portraits of the following distinguished prelates and divines: St. Dunstan, Archbishop Bancroft, the founder; \Varham; Richard Fox, Bishop of \Vinchester; Martin Luther: Dr. Peter du MouJin, Chap- lain of Charles II. ; and his Archbishop J lixon, the bishop who attended Charles I. on the morning of his execution ; Dr. David 'VVilkins, a former Librarian; Archbishop Tillotson (the first prelate who wore a wig), by Mrs Beale; and a large view of Canterbury Cathedral. The bay window has some stained glass; the arms 6f Philip H. of Spain, husband of Queen Mary; Archbishops Bancroft, Land, and J uxon; and a porti ait of Archbishop Chicheley. The chapel, the oldest part of the edifice, was erected in the thirteenth century, by Boniface, Archbishop of Canterbury. It is early English, with lancet—shaped windows, and a crypt; and has an old screen, put up by Archbishop Laud, (executed 1644—5) having his coat of arms, and contains the remains of Archbishop Parker, buried before the altar; 1514). In this chapel all the archbishops, from the time of Boniface, ave been consecrated; and in the vestry are portraits of several bishops. The Lollards’ Tower, at the western extremity of the chapel, contains a small room, wainscotted with oak, on which are inscribed several names and portions of sentences in ancient characters; and the walls are furnished withlarge rings to which the Lollards, and other per- sons confined for heretical opinions, are supposed to have been affixed. In the grounds, which are tastefully lafil out, are two fig trees of ex- traordinary size, said to have been printed by Cardinal Pole, about 1558. A new Gothic wing was added by Dr. llowley, the late Arch- bishop, from the designs of Mr. Blore; and the domestic portion of the palace greatly enlarged and fitted up in a style of simple beauty—— oak panelling prevailing throughout—contrasting finely with the fretted ceilings and ornaments. ROYAL PALACES AND MANsmNs or THE N OBILITY. 95 :l we— ., m", . ,l-‘i . LI-K‘p ._ l ~f.‘ ‘ nPSLEY HOUSE, Hide Pa 1k Co1ner; the town residence of His Grace the Duke of \\ ellington. The situation is one of the finest in the metropolis, stand- ing at t,the very beginning of the town, entering westwar,d and commanding fine views of the parks, with the Surrey and Kent hills in the distance. It was built by Lord Chancellor Apslcy, afterwards second Earl of Bathm st about 177O,f10m designs by Messrs. Adams, on the site of the old ranger’s lodge. In 1828-9 it was enlarged, entirely remodelled, faced with Bath stone, and the front portico and west wing, containing a gallery ninety feet long, added, under the direction of Sir J. Wyattville. It was previously the residence of His Grace’s noble father, the late Duke of Wellington. The p1incipal f10,nt next Piccadilly, con31sts ot a centre with two wings, having a portion of the Corinthian 01der, raised upon a rusticated zDarcade or th1ee apeitures, leading to the entrance hall. The west front consists of two wings, the centre slightly recedes, and has four windows with a balcony. The front is enclosed by a rich bronzed palisade, corres- ponding with the gates to the grand entrance to the Park. In the .saloon is a colossal statue of Napoleon, by Canova. The ball room, extending the whole depth of the mansion, and the picture gallery, 1n which we numerous fine paintings, are supeib. The banquetting mom is splendidly deeomted, being of a dead white, richly gilt In this room the \Vaterloo Banquetq 1s annually held, on which occasion are assembled the veteran companions in aims of his Grace on that memorable day. to u) S 4 D O I“ “-=== i=;———'—‘—-—': igp‘znni-J, -.-.—;-.: _r . ymz- -.xn:n::i’r_ , ,_, . .- .. .n:.-_._1- :_n:.-i.- WJ‘w-Lnylt - . - ' 7",”QWIH’VKXWW . '5’", 1..-...— ’rUgfi' 1" Y yap; 1, a? .1 within??? 1%?" ' I I'. " 0"}: ’ . e . ,. ,' A - sz.’ fig‘ \\ —- @W %‘\W\ m BRIDGEWATER HOUSE, Green Park; the residence of Francis, Earl of Ellesmere, great nephew, and principal heir of Francis, Duke of B1idgevvater: erected in 18-17-50, from the designs of Challes Barry, Esq.,o the architect of the new houses of Parliament, on the site of what. vvas once Bell;- shire House, next Cleveland House, the residence of the Duchess of Cleveland, so celebrated in the days of Charles IL, and then Bridge- water House. In plan it approaches a square: the south front 15 one hundred and forty-two feet sm inches from east to west- , and the west. front one hundred and twenty-two feet from north to south - and there are two small comts Within the mass to aid in lighting the various apa1tments. The palace residences of Rome and V enice Shave furnished the general types for the elevations, skilfully combined 111 good proportions: the details are mostly very elegant, and the general effect very,3 Good. The picture gallery, in which is contained the finest collection of paintings by the Caracci, to be found in any p11vate gallery, and the Chandos portrait of Shakspeare, from the Stowe Collection, occupies the Whole of the north side of the house, and 1s car1ied out a few feet beyond the east. wall of the ground floor, on stone landings and can- tilevers ROYAL PALACES AND MANSIONS or THE N omurr. 97 STAFFORD HOUSE, Stable Yard, St. James’s, the residence of His Grace the Duke of Sutherland. This noble mansion was commenced in 1825, from the designs of Mr. B. Wyatt, and was intended for the residence of His late RoyalHighness the Duke of York, who did not, however, live to inhabit it, and then called York House On his demise it was purchased by the late Marquis of Stafford, for the sum of £72,000, and furnished in the most splendid style, at a cost of nearly £200,000. It is now the town residence of his son the Duke of Sutherland. ln form it is quadrangular, and has four perfect fronts, all of which are cased with stone. The north, or principal front, where is the en- trance, exhibits a portico of eight Corinthian columns. There are in all, three stories, but the third is concealed by a balustrade, so as to give a more majestic appearance to the building. Nearly in the centre of the roof is a lantern, illuminating the grand staircase. The south and west fronts are alike; they project slightly at each end, and in the centre are six Corinthian columns supporting a pediment. The cast front differs a little from the preceding, as it has no project- ing columns. The vestibule, which is of noble dimensions, leads to the grand staircase, fourteen feet in breadth. The library is situated on the ground floor, and on the first, or principal floor, are the state apart ments, comprising dining rooms, drawing rooms, and a noble picture gallery, 130 feet in length, in which is placed the Stafford Gallery one of the finest private collections of paintings in London; it is particu— larly rich in the works of Titian, Murillo, tubens, and Vandyok. The collection can only be seen by permission of the Duke. SPENCER HOUSE, St. James’s Place, Green Park; the family mansion of Earl Spencer A noble palatial edifice, faced with Portland stone, built by Vardy a scholar of Kent, for John Spencer, first Lord Spencer of Althorpe, who died in 1783. The pediment is adorned with statues and vases, very tastefully disposed. The principal ornament of the interior is the library, an elegant room, containing one of the finest collections of books-in the kingdom. CHESTERFlELD HOUSE, South Audley Street, May Fair. This handsome and commodious edifice was built by the celebrated Philip, fourth Earl of Chesterfield. in 1748, from designs by Isaac Ware the editor of “ Palladis.” The wings are connected with the body of the house by two very beautiful colonnades, the pillars of which, together with the magnificent stair- case, were removed from the vast mansion of the Duke of Chandos, at Cannons. when that magnificent edifice was dismantled. 98 ‘ LONDON NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE, Charing Cross, is one of the most imposing town mansions of the nobility, and is a fine specimen of the architecture of the time of James 1.; It was built by Bernard Jansen, a Flemish architect, for Henry Howard, Earl of Northumberland, son of the famous Earl of Surrey, on the site of the old Hospital of St. Mary Roncenvaux. The highly ornamented frontage to the Strand, is from designs by Ger- hard Christmas. This house came into the family of the Percies, by the marriage of a nephew of the Earl of Northumberland with a daughter of the Earl of Suffolk. The lien on the central parapet is a copy of the celebrated one by Michael Angelo, and is the crest of the Percies. The front is 160 feet in length, and the court is 81 feet square. The garden between the house and the river, consists of a‘fine lawn, surrounded with a gravel walk. LANDSDOWNE HOUSE, Berkeley Square, south side. The residence of the Marquess of Lands- downe is a noble mansion, built by Robert Adam, for the Marquis of . Bute, and by him sold to Lord Shelbourne, afterwards Marquess of Landsdowne, for £22,000. It is adorned with a fine collection of an— tique statues and busts, formed by Gavin Hamilton. The gallery is a«.room of imposing proportions, being 100 feet long by 30 feet wide. In the ante—room is a copy of Canova’s Venus; and in the dining and dressing rooms, are recesses containing busts. The collection of paintings is of great interest, containing, among other fine works, twelve pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Hogarth’s portrait of Peg Wofiington, and Jervas’s portrait of Pope. The collection may be seen during the season, by a personal introduction to the Marquess. _ DEVONSHIRE HOUSE, Piccadilly. This noble mansion was built by \Villiam Cavendish, third Duke of Devonshire, on the site of an ancient residence of the Berkeley family, from designs by Kent, and is said to have cost £20,000, exclusive of £1,000 presented to the architect. In this splendid mansion the present Duke gave many grand entertainments to the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the other great military personagcs that were over in England after the peace. The old house, according to Pennant, was frequented by \Valler, Denham, and most of the poets and wits of the days of Charles 11. Here is a very fine collection of pictures, but they are inaccessible to- the public; as also the Kemble collection of plays, purchased by his Grace for the sum of £2,000. ROYAL PALACES AND MANSIONS or THE N OBILITY. .99 BURLINGTON HOUSE. Piccadilly. Erected by Richard Boyle, third Earl of Burlingtongon the site of a house built by Sir John Denham, the poet, in the reign, of Charles IL, who was his own architect. . “Who plants like Bathurst, and who builds like Boyle-3" ‘ It was admired by Horace Walpole, and is thus alluded to by Gay, in his “ Trivia: ” ' “ Burlington’s fair palace still remains. Beauty within ;—-With0ut, proportion reigns; There Handel strikes the strings, the melting strain Transports the soul, and thrills through every vein; There oft I enter—but with cleaner shoes, For Burlington’s beloved by every muse.” The Duke of Portland died here, in 1800, only a few days after he had reelgned his seat in the cabinet. - GROSVENOR HOUSE, And Picture Gallery, Upper Grosvenor Street, Grosvenor Square. This noble mansion, the residence of the Marquis of Westminster, is famous for its magnificent picture gallery; one of the finest private galleries in Europe. It is exceedingly rich in paintings by Rubens and Claude. Here is also Sir Joshua Reynold’s fine picture of Mrs. Siddons, as the Tragic Muse, usually considered his masterpiece. The gallery was erected in 1826, from the designs of Mr. T. Cundy, after a beautiful example of the Corinthian order. In 1842 was erected the very handsome screen, of classic pillars, connecting a double arching en— trance. The pictures are open to the public during the months of May and June, under restrictions similar to that of the Duke of Suth- erland at Stafford House. CAMBRIDGE HOUSE, 94, Piccadilly. The residence of the Duke of Cambridge; formerly called Egreinont House, and afterwards Cholmondely House. Here the Duke of Cambridge died, July 28th, 1850; and here, a few days previously Her Majesty was assaulted by the lunatic Pate. ANGLESEY HOUSE, Burlington Gardens, near Bond Street. The residence of the Marquis of Anglescy, formerly known as Uxbridge House. It is a handsome stone structure, and was built by Leoni, for the Duke of Oueensburv. BATH HOUSE, 82, Piccadilly, corner of Bolton Street. Built by Alexander Baring, first Lord Ashburton, on the site of Bath House, the residence of the Pulteneys. Here is a fine collection of pictures, chiefly of the Dutch and Flemish schools, formed entirely by the father of the present lord, and formerly known as Alexander Baring, Esq. HERTFORD HOUSE, 105, I’icadilly. This noble mansion, which has been re-constructed (1851) on the site of an edifice designed by M. Novosielski, and for- merly known as the Pulteney Hotel, is the town residence of the Marquis of Hertford, and here it is his lordship’s intention to deposit his fine collection of pictures, that bids fair to surpass in importance any other forming at the present time, or even to equal any other pie-existing. It contains the rarest works that unbounded wealth could obtain, during the few past years, from the galleries of Cardinal Fesch, the Saltmarsh collection, Lord Ashburnham, the late King of Holland, and many others. DOVER HOUSE, Whitehall, near the Horse Guards. The residence of Lady Dover. Widow of tho late accomplished Agar Ellis, Lord Dover. It was biult in 1774, by Payne, for Sir Matthew Featherstonehaugh, and sunse- quently sold to Viscount Melbourne, father of the late premier. In 1789, it was purchased by the late Duke of York, who. added the domed entrance hall, and grand staircase, and then called Xor‘s. House. ._.._-—— MR. HOFE’S MANSION, Corner of Down Street, Piccadilly. Erected in 1848-9, from designs by M. Dusillon and Mr. Donaldson, at a cost of £30,000. The handsome iron railing in front of the mansion, was cast in Paris. . . This splendid edifice contains the valuable collection of pomtmgs, sculpture, Egyptian antiquities, and other works of vu‘tu, formed by the father of the present possessor, the author of “ Anastasms,” and the introducer of the Egyptian style of furnitm‘e half a century ago. Admission may be obtained by cards, procurable from the owner, du- ring the London season,-——April to July THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 101‘ CHAPTER V. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. —— Fountains and trees, our wearied pride do please, E’en in the midst of gilded palaces : And in our towns, that prospect gives delight, Which opens round the country to our sight—Sprat. This s lendid city! How wanton sits she, amidst §ature’s smiles; Nor from her highest turrets has to view, But golden landscapes, and luxuriant scenes, A waste of wealth, the storehouse of the world—Young. ST. JAM ES’S PARK Was originally formed by Henry VIII., who caused to be drained and enclosed, what at that time was little better than a marsh. It was afterwards much improved by Charles II., who employed Le N otre to plant the avenues, lay out the mall, a vista, half a mile in length, and form the canal, as also the aviary adjoining, from which the Bird-Cage Walk took its name. Succeeding kings allowed the people the privi- lege of walking here; and William III., in 1699, granted the neigh- bouring inhabitants a passage into it through Spring Gardens. In 1828, the appearance of the park was much improved, when it assumed its present appearance; and it is now one of the most delightful prom- enades in the metropolis. In the centre of the park is an oblong sheet of water, which tends greatly to the embellishment of the place, it being prettily diversified, indented with little bays, with jutting promontories, and islands tufted with evergreens. The collection of rare aquatic birds, wlnch add greatly to the beauty of the scene, and the feeding of which, 18 'a never-failing source of amusement to the young, belong toIthe Orm- thological Society, who have erected a very prett and plcturesque cottage for the keeper, at the east end of the park. 11 January, 18.46, the collection contained upwards of three hundred birds, 1ncludmg twenty-one species, and fifty-one distinct varieties. ' One of the most charming views imaginable, may be obtamed from the southern bank of the lake,— “ Just when evening turns the blue vault grey," the placid waters, like a huge mirror, reflect the noble trees on its broad margin—the rare aquatic birds then sail majestically along its H 102 LONDON. surface, or diving and diporting themselves in its clear waters, with light waves ripple its bosom—at the extremity of the lake,— “ against the eastern gate, Where the great sun begins his state." The parade, and western front of the Horse Guards, agreeably relieve the eye, whilst towering over the majestic elms, which shade the Mall, the splendid mansions of Carlton Terrace, the York and Nelson Columns, and the lofty and elegant spire of St. Martin’s Church, com- plete a picture that leaves nothing to be desired. The side of the park nearest Pall Mall, is bounded by a range of stately houses, built on what was formerly the site of Carlton Palace, consisting of sixteen houses, which are disposed in two ranges, raised on a substratum, forming a terrace, about fifty feet wide, adorned with Paestum Doric pillars, surmounted by a balustrade. The super- structure consists of three stories, ornamented with Corinthian columns. In the open space between the two ranges is the York Column, erected to the memory of the late Commander in Chief. Westward of these, are Marlborough House, St. J ames’s Palace, and Stafford House. In the Bird-Cage Walk, which leads from Westminster Bridge to Pimlico, is the Wellington Barracks, and exercise ground, near to -»which is a handsome Doric chapel, erected for the use of the mili- tary, to which the public have access on Sundays; service commences at half-past ten o’clock. The appearance of this noble chapel is striking from the various points of view, and forms an interesting com- position with the towers of the Abbey. There are carriage entrances to St. J ames’s Park at St. J ames’s Palace; Constitution Hill; Buckingham Gate, Great George Street; and the Horse Guards; as well as entrances for pedestrians, at Spring Gardens; Duke Street; Fludyer Street; Downing Street, through the Treasury ; Queen’s Square, Queen Street; the Green Park; St. James’s Palace; and \Vaterloo Place: the entrance at the latter was first opened September the 8th, 1831, in honour of the coronation of \Villiam IV., and consists of a noble flight of steps, leading from the York Column. On the parade in front of the Horse Guards, are placed a Turkish piece of ordnance, captured at Alexandria by the British army; a piece 01 ordnance captured at \Vaterloo; and one of the mortars used by tne French army to throw shells into Cadiz, its range being said to be three miles, and its weight sixteen tons. One of the regiments of the foot guards daily parade in this park, between ten and eleven o’clock in the morning, attended by its band, and afterwards proceeds to relieve the regiment on duty at. St. J ames’s Palace, where the band of both regiments play, alternately, for about twenty minutes. ' The enclosure is open daily, from seven o’clock until sunset, and is a favourite promenade, especially 011 Sundays in the afternoon and evening, when it is always crowded with well dressed company. But though a favourite, it is not a fashionable lounge; people of rank pre- ferrino- Kensingtnn Gardens, from their proximity to the more aris- tocratic drive in Hyde Park, known as Rotten Row. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 103, --——-—-—- c—n—uv nu; yn[mllllmmmv- -.; . .vrr” , .w‘ Il/v' 1’ Hm \. l- lac/r ”Lhw l1 ’ . .24 \ , . . ' T ”7. .a‘ . W - I. l -I A! . Q ". ; ‘ ‘ \ 7.", "If: . " ’ . -. . , , . _ x. . , . ~ ' . ‘ 2- .- ‘ . J' ".5. N75. ' > ' 'u_ H” ' k\ . ' ‘F‘ in ‘ \ ‘ \ \t“ __ - 1' I". . f .‘ , _ T_._‘I" . ,__ ~l " 1" lit Mair:- \. THE GREEN PARK. An open area of fifty-six acres, situate on the west side of the stable yard, St. James’s Palace, and forms part of the ground enclosed by Henry VIII., extending from St. James‘s Park to Piccadilly, from which it is separated by an iron railing from H de Park to Cons stitution Hill, the name given to the fine road whic unites the three parks; and here it was, on the 10th of June, 1850, that the lunatic Oxford fired at her Majesty, as she was proceeding in an open phaeton, accompanied by Prince Albert. Previous to the reign of Charles 11., the Green Park was occupied by meadows; and it is to that monarch we are indebted for its being converted into an appanage of St. James’s Palace. In 1730 it was the scene of a remarkable duel, between the celebrated minister, Pulteney, afterwards Earl of Bath, and John Lord Hervey. It was much im- proved during the period that Lord Duneannon was at the head of the \Voods and Forests, and now forms an agreeable promenade from St. J ames’s Palace to Hyde Park Corner. At the north-east angle is a useful reservoir, belonging to the Chelsea Waterworks, having no pretensions to picturesqueness or beauty. _ This park has several magnificent mansions on its eastern Slde, particularly Bridgewater and Stafford Houses, the noble mansions and picture galleries of the Earl of Ellesmere, and the Duke of Suther- and, the palladian villa of Lord Spencer, the town houses of the Earl of Derby, the Marquis of Tavistock, the Duke of Rutland, and ther opulent peers. 1104 LONDON. The entrance to the park from Piccadilly, which also forms one of the‘ grand approaches to St. J ames’s Park, and Buckingham Palace, and of which, from the lowness of their situation, a fine view may be obtained, is by a triumphal arch, of the Corinthian order, erected from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton. On the northern front are four columns, supporting a portico, the arch itself being adorned With six Corinth- ian pilasters; the southern flont is nearly similar; the vaulted part in the centr e, is di1 ided into richly cal ved compartments, and the gates, which are of beautifully bronzed hon-11or,k are adorned with the royal arms. On the summit of the arch 1s placed the colossal bronze statue of the Duke of “’ellington, erected in 1846. HYDE PARK, Is situated at. the western extremity of London, and together with Kensington Gardens, occupies the whole space between the Kensing- ton and Bayswater roads; it is sepa1ated from the Green Park by the width of the st1 eet, at Hyde Pa1k Corner, and has long been the favourite resort of the fashionable 11 011d; it is an extremely beautiful and very delightful spot, containing 11 ithin its precincts about four hundred ac1es, and is vely well E)planted, though with few of the effects of landscape gardening; it deri1 es its name fiom the Manor of Hyde, given in exchange to Henr5 VIII. for other lands, at the suppression of the monastery It has been greatly reduced in size b5 the building of houses, and by the appropriation of a pa1t to enla1ge Kensington Ga1dens; it is, however, still large; and from the salubrity of the ai1 has been happily called one of the “lungs of London.” The views f1o1n the highe1 portions of ground are very pleasing; more particularly those too the south and west. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 105 THE SERPENTINE. A piece of water once serpentine, and still called the Serpentine .river, though now awide canal, stretches through the park, with a single course, from north to east, having at its eastern extremity, an arti- ficial waterfall, constructed in 1817, and being crossed, towards its western end by a very elegant stone bridge, designed and executed by the Messrs. Rennie, forming a beautiful object from either side. A good view is obtained from the southern bank of the water, where the rich and luxuriant foliage of the plantations in Kensington Gardens, forms a fine back ground over its summit; and the walks round the margin of the lake, a lively contrast to the dark shadows of the arches, which cast their reflexes on the surface of the silvery waters. The Serpentine is much resorted to during the summer months for the purpose of bathing, but the numerous cold springs with which it abounds, renders it very dangerous, the swimmer being often seized with cramp, from which cause great loss of life ensued, previous to the establishment of the Royal Humane Society, who have erected a house on its margin for the reception and recovery of persons apparently drowned, and who have several men engaged during the hours in which bathing is allowed, viz., before seven o’clock in the morning, and after eight o’clock in the evening. In winter, during hard frosts, the Serpentine is much frequented by the votaries of skating, although it is the most dangerous sheet of water in London, and numbers have fallen victims to their hardihood in venturing within the limits marked “ dangerous.” Near the receiving house are two powder ma- gazines; the great government store of gunpowder, in which is deposited upwards of one million rounds of ball and blank cartridges, ready for immediate use. It is to be hoped that a more appropriate site will be found for this dangerous storehouse, before the ensumg year. 106 LONDON. Vast numbers of persons assemble here on a Sunday, between the hours of two and six, chiefly on the esplanade from. Piccadilly to ensington Gardens, on the north side of the Serpentine. Horsemen of every grade, and vehicles of every description, are then to be seen; costumes as various as the climes which produce them: altogether, forming a scene of extraordinary attraction. It is also much fre- quented during the season by the aristocracy on week days, from four to six o’clock. The park is open from six in the morning until ten in the evening, and may be entered from various. approaches. Hackney carriages being alone excluded. The grand entrance is at Hyde Park Corner, Piccadilly, by a hand- some gateway, erected in 1828, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton. It consists of a screen, extending about 120 feet, having three arched entrances for carriages, and two for foot passengers. The central entrance has a bold projection, and is adorned with four columns, supporting the entablature, above which is a frieze, re re- senting a naval and military triumphal procession, executed by Jr. John Henning, junior The other carriage entrances present two in- sulated Ionic columns, flanked by antze. It was the intention of the architect to have placed an equestrian statue of George III. over the principal carriage entrance. The gates, which are of bronzed iron- ‘work, are from the foundry of Messrs. Bramah, and are very fine . ”specimens of ornamental metal casting; the ornamentation consisting .of the Greek honeysuckle, admirably defined, and the leaves well 'Kiought out. The effect is greatly enhanced by a palisading of t e same pattern as the gates being carried along the front of Apsley House; and on the west side it forms a screen to the park-keeper’s lodge, on which is nlaced an illuminated clock. .__.,:; 4. l n ll 9 _ ©- :1}! ' l I a; I, .7 .‘ mm.“ ' " " ’ '-.. '7 ' 45 “ a wl‘ THE TRIUMPHAL MARBLE ARCH. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 107 .The other principal entrances are the Albert Gate, nearly opposite Lowndes Square, an entrance made in 1845, on either side of which is a lofty mansion, that to the east being the residencc of the French Ambassador. The stags which grace the entrance, were placed here on the demolition of the ranger’s lodge, in the Green Park. The Prince’s Gate, Kensington, opposite which stood the Crystal Palace; Chesterfield Gate, Park Lane; Grosvenor Gate, Park Lane, opposite Upper Grosvenor Street, opened in 1724; and Cumberland Gate, so called after the hero of . Culloden, at the western extremity of Oxford Street, formerly called 'l‘yburn Gate. Here was placed in 1851, the Triumphal Marble'Arch, originally erected in front of Buckingham Palace, at a cost of £70,000, and removed in 1850, on the completion of the new east front. It is one of the most magnificent gateways in Europe, resembling in general effect the arch of Constantine at Rome. It is sixty feet in height, and- contains three archways; the centre one of which rises to the architrave. The Gates are of Mosaic gold, and were cast by Messrs. Bramah. At the south-east corner‘of the park, near the entrance from Pic- cadilly, is a colossal statue, from the antique, executed by Westmacott, from cannon, taken during the Peninsular war, and erected in honour of the His Grace, the Great Duke of Wellington. Reviews of horse and foot soldiers, on a large scale, take place oc- casionally, during the summer, in Hyde Park, when the concourse of spectators is then very great. . . On the lower or Knightsbridgeside of the Park, are the barracks of the Life Guards, near to which stood the original Crystal Palace, erected for the purposes of the Great Industrial Exhibition of 1851. KENSINGTON GARDENS. Where Kensington, high o’er the neighbouring lands, ’Midst greens and sweets, a regal fabric stands; ‘ ' And secs each spring, luxuriant in her bowers, A snow of blossoms, and a wild of flowers. The dames of Britain oft in crowds repair To gravel walks and unpolluted air. Here, while the town in dam s and darkness lies, They breathe in sunshine, an see azure skies; Each walk, with robes of various d cs bespread, Seems from afar a moving tulip beci, Where rich brocades and glossy damasks glow, And chintz the rival of the showcry bow—Tickell. The park, or gardens, originally attached to Kensington Palace, consisted of but twenty-six acres. Queen Anne added thirty acres, and Queen Caroline, consort of George 11., extended the boundaries by the addition of two hundred acres, taken from Hyde Park. The present circumference of these delightful gardens, is now about two miles and three-quarters. They were tastefully laid out in the French style of the seventeenth century, by Bridgman, Kent, and Brown, who may be considered as the inventors of the modern art of 108 - LONDON landscape gardening, under the direction of Caroline, Queen of George 11-. Though somewhat formal, there is a pleasing variety of wild and cultivated garden and pasture ground. The perspectives are charmingly arranged; and the water is so disposed as to produce the best possible effect. The gardens are open daily till sunset, and are much frequented durin the season by fashionables in the afternoons of the week days ,. and e public generally on Sundays. During the months of June July, and August, the band of the Life Guards. or Oxford Blues, play 'lhere are six gates to these gardens; one opening into the U1:- bridge Road, Bayswater; four in Hyde Park; and one at the palace. in the afternoon, on Tuesdays and Fridays, in the gardens, near the Serpentine. from half-past four till half-past six. Servants in livery are not admitted. my IllllllllllllllIEII lelllnlillflliiI-IINIIIIFIEIu'IYIA'IIIJg :Irll -,—' 7 i _"i —='—— v '- ‘ ‘ __,._r_—_> -, "’5‘ l ‘- —_.,_—.—-—-,t'.~m.. '— ‘ W» .— V “A; ‘ i...,'.h\‘b fw— __ ' - , _, I; J ”&_w~_’_- ~25 \ _.— ,— '- 2 - _ 3-. ' “ ——$—,' ...~ 9- 9i? 0 THE REGE‘NT’S PARK Is situated on the north side of the West End, between the New Road and Hampstead. It is nearly of a circular form, and consists of four hundred and fifty acres, laid out in shrubberies, adorned with a fine piece of water, and intersected with roads, which are most delightful rides or promenades in fine weather. There is, also, an artificial lake. over which are thrown some neat suspension bridges. In the reign of Elizabeth, this was a royal park and residence; at the Restoration it passed into the hands of private individuals, having been leased to the Duke of Portland; when on its reverting to the crown, in J an. nary, 1811, it was, again converted, under the direction of Mr. Nash, into a park, by the prince regent, afterwards George IV., from whom It derives its name, that monarch having contemplated the erection of a palace on its north side. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 109 ”5/ 07¢] W ”/3/ Ala”. i 6’ I A/ T“ 4/ Ma . ,/;/ \iw \ \ PLAN OF, REGENT’S PARK. The following tour of the park will direct the stranger to the va- rious objects which it contains. Commencing at the end of Portland Place, we turn to the right and pass through Park crescent, a hand- some semicircular range of private houses adorned with a colonnade of the Ionic order. Crossing the New road, we enter Park square, a spacious quadrangle, tastefully planted, and bounded on the east and west sides by handsome houses. Proceeding up the east side, we per- ceive the Diorama (F) and the Colosseum, both of which will be found described in another part of this work. The various obJects then come to View in the following order :— ' ‘ CAMBRIDGE TERRACE (E) is one of the smallest in the park. It con. sists of a centre and. two wings, which have porticos of the Roman, or pSeudo-Doric'order. The central part is surmounted by an um and two sphinxes. ' ‘ ' 110 LONDON. CHESTER TERRACE (D) is a grand and commanding range of building, designed by Mr. Nash. It is of the Corinthian order, and is richly decorated, At each end of the terrace is an arch connecting it with pavilion-shaped mansions. This idea is novel and has a very good effect. CUMBERLAND TERRACE, (B) erected by Mr. Nurse, stands considerably above the road by which it is separated by a garden. It is ap- proached by a fine carriage-sweep with handsome balustrades. It consists of a centre and wings connected by two arches. The ground story is rusticated, and in the principal masses of the building serves as a base for Doric columns, surmounted by a balustrade, on which are placed allegorical figures of the seasons, the quarters of the globe, the arts and sciences, &c. The central portion consists of a splendid colonnade of twelve columns, surmounted by a pediment containing sculpture by Mr. Bubb. It represents Britannia, crowned by Fame, seated on her throne, at the base of which are Valour and \Visdoai. On one side are the figures of Literature, Genius, Manufacture, Agri- culture, and Prudence, bringing forward youth of various countries for instruction: on the the other side is‘ represented the Navy, sur- rounded by victory, Commerce, and Freedom—the latter extending her blessings to the Africans. Plenty terminates the group on either side. From the sweep in front of this terrace there is a very pic- turesque view of the park. ST. CATHERINE’S HOSPITAL on the right, and the master’s House on the left of the road, both will be found noticed in another part of this work. Behind St. Catherine’s hospital are barracks capable of accom- modating 500 men and horses. GLOUCESTER TERRACE (A) is a handsome range of buildings ad- joining St. Catherine’s Hospital. , ‘ GLOUCESTER GATE leads to the great north road, by Camden town 'and Highgate. It is a neat structure of the Doric order, consisting of tour fluted columns, flanked by stone lodges, with pediments. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, described in another part of this work. MACCLESFIELD BRIDGE is an elegant structure crossing the Regent’s canal, on the northern boundary of the park. It was built by Mr. Morgan, and consists of three arches supported by cast-iron pillars of the Doric order. During summer the banks of the canal from the top of the bridge, is very picturesque. The road over it leads to Primrose Hill, now the property of the public, and a delghtful adjunct to this park: from its summit may be obtained a fine view of the metropolis. THE MARQUIS 0F HERTFORD’S VILLA is situated on the left of the road, surrounded by trees and shrubberies. It was built from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton. The portico consists of six columns of the same order as that which adorns the entrance to the Temple of the Winds, at. Athens. Adjoining the villa is a large tent-like canopy covering a spacious room, used for déjeuner parties. In the grounds are placed the identical clock and the two figures, that formerly struck the hours in front of old St. Dunstan’s church, having been purchased by the Marquis, on the demolition of that edifice. ST. DUNs'rAN’s VILLA, in the vicinity, is a noble mansion, the resi- dence of Mr. Holford. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 111 GROVE HOUSE, on the opposite side of the road, was likew1so. erected by Mr. Decimus Burton, and is a very pleasing specimen of architecture. The garden front, which is the principal, presents a portico of four Ionic columns supporting a pediment and flanked by Win08. HiNOVER LODGE is situated near Grove House. It is a very neat building of the Ionic order, surrounded by picturesque grounds. HANOVER TERRACE, (K) built from designs of Mr. Nash; consists of a centre and two wings of the Doric order, crowned with pediments, surmounted by statues of the Muses. In the central pediment is a group of figures in relievo, representing Medicine, Chemistry, Archi- tecture, Sculpture, Poetry, Peace, Justice, Agriculture, Plenty, Music, History, and Navigation. Opposite Hanover terrace is a small gate opening into the enclosed part of the park, by a footpath, which winds into a serpentine form, to a gate opposite Sussex place, and terminates at another gate front~ in g York terrace. To this walk only the inhabitants of the surround- .ing terraces have admission. SUSSEX PLACE (J) is awhimsical range of buildings, erected by Mr. Nash. It consists of a centre, with a pediment flanked with octag- enal towers, and wings with four similar towers; the whole being dis- posed in a semicircular form, with a garden in front. All the towers are finished with cupola tops and minarets, which give them a very singular appearance. CLARENCE TERRACE, (I) built from the designs of Mr. Decimus Bur- ton, consists of a centre and two wings of the Corinthian order. connected by colonnades of the Ilyssus Ionic order. This is the smallest terrace in the park, but it yields to none in picturesque efl'ect. \Ve then -arrive at the entrance gate from Baker Street. CORNWALL TERRACE, (H) one of the earliest erections in the park, was built from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton, and is very creditable to his taste. It is of the Corinthian order. The basement is rusticated, and the upper part is adorned with fluted columns and pilasters. with well-proportioned capitals. YORK TERRACE (G) is a splendid range of private houses erected from designs by Mr. Nash. The ground story presents a range of semi- circular-headed windows and rusticated piers, above which is a con— tinued pedestal divided between the columns into balustrades in front of the windows of the principal story, to which they form balconies. The centre and the wings of this and the principal chamber-story are adorned with columns of the Ilyssus Ionic order. This terrace rather resembles a single palace than a range of separate houses, all the doors being at the back of the buildings and the gardens in front having no divisions. In the centre of York terrace is York gate, forming with the two rows of mansions that flank it, a noble entrance to the park. At the ’end of the avenue is seen the front of Mary-le-bone New Church. Opposite York terrace is a building occupied by the Toxopholite Society, containing five acres of land for archery sports. ULSTER TERRACE forms the west corner of Park square, and thus completes the tour of the park. It is a plain and Simple range: 112 ‘LONDON. adorned at the basement story with a colonnade of the Ionic order. Returning to York gate, we may take the turn to the right, and crossing the bridge over the east end of the lake, enter the Ring, a. fine level drive, planted on each side with trees, in the interior, or inner circle, are the gardens of the Royal Botanical Society, which will be found fully described in the subsequent pages. Around the ring are three villas. The first is South villa, with a 'ortico of Doric columns resting on a rusticated basement. The next ls called the Holme, from the Saxon word denoting a river-island. It is situated between the ring and the lake, of which it commands a fine view, and-is adorned with a portico of the Ionic order. The villa was built from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton. The third is St. J ohn’s Wood Lodge, the seat of Baron Sir Isaac Lyon Goldsmid, situ~ ated to the north of the ring. It was designed by Mr. Raffield, and is in the Grecian style of architecture. The visiter may then leave the ring by the same route as he en- tered, or proceed along the road which extends from its east side in a straight line to the centre of Chester terrace. Through the park, on a line with Portland Place, to the east side of the Zoological Gar- dens, runs a fine broad avenue, lined with trees and footpaths, which ramify across the sward in all directions, interspersed with orna- mental plantations; these were laid out in 1833, and opened to the public in 1838, up to which time the public were entirely excluded from the inside of the park, except from the gardens opposite Corn- wall and Sussex terraces, which were free up to the ornamental water. to the inhabitants of the park, on payment of two guincas per annum for a key. —— BATTERSEA PARK. This park, at present in the course of formation, will extend the whole distance between Battersea Bridge and Nine Elms, and from the bank of the river to the public road across Battersea Fields, making the length of the park about two miles and a quarter, and its width 8. little more than a mile. A carriage drive, fifty feet in breadth, will be formed along the bank of the Thames, and a suspension bridge be thrown across the river at the spot where the Red House now stands; towards the construction of which the Marquis of \Vest- minster has contributed £60,000. ———-— VICTORIA PARK Is situated in Bishop Bonner’s Fields, Bethnal Green. It was first opened in 1847, for the recreation of the inhabitants of the east side of London. Its extent is about two hundred and ninety acres, or rather more than the area of St. James’s Park. It is bounded on the west by the Regent’s canal, on the south by Sir George Ducket’l THE PUBLIC BARKS AND GARDEN s. 113“ canal, and on the north by Grove Street Lane, and is approached by roads leading from Spitalfields to Bethnal Green, across an iron bridge, of light and elegant construction. The entrance lodge, and house of the superintendent, is a handsome building, in the Elizabethan style, and forms, altogether, a pretty, picturesque, but not very solid looking structure, where Tudor and modern architecture mix together in a manner pleasing enough, if not very artistical. ENTRANCE LODGE. The park has been most admirably laid out, under the direction of Mr Curtis, upwards of twenty thousand trees and shrubs having been planted; and as the plan of a scientific arboretum is followed in their disposal, it combines amusement and instruction of a high order; and in a few years will, no doubt, become one of the chief ornaments of that part of the metropolis. In order to supply the wants of the dense neighbourhood it is intended to benefit, a large piece of ornamental water has been appro- priated for the purpose of morning bathing; and so well is the luxury appreciated by the artizans of Spitalfields, and the adjoining parts, that as many as 4,000 have been known to avail themselves of it on a single summer’s morning. The water, which is supplied gratuitously by the East London Waterworks Company, is constantly changing during bathing hours. . There is likewise a large plot of ground set apart for a gymnasmrm Fhellfalhe youthful tyro may enjoy the games of cricket, archery . «u oot- L 114 7 LONDON. THE TEMPLE GARDENS Are pleasantly situated upon the banks of the Thames, on the south side of the Temple. The garden of the Inner Temple is laid out and kept in good order. It is of considerable extent, chiefly covered with greensward, sun'ounded on three sides with beds of flowers, and has a gravelled walk, or terrace on the bank of the river, commanding fine views of \Vaterloo and Blackfi'iar’s bridges, and Somerset House. This garden forms a delightful promenade during the summer even- ings, when it is open to the public from six o’clock until dusk, commencing the first week in June. The Middle Temple has likewise a garden, but much smaller, and not so pleasantly situated; as also a small enclosure, in the centre of which is a fountain, which pleasingly diversities the scene. In these gardens Shakspeare laid the scene of the famous quarrel between the houses of York and Lancaster, and the place in which the distinctive badges of the white and red rose, were first assumed by their respective partizans. Szgfl‘ollc. Within the Temple Hall we were too loud; The garden here is more convenient. i- 1* 'i ‘1‘ Plantagenet. Let him that is a true-born entleman, And stands upon the honour 0 his birth, If he suppose that I have pleaded truth, From off this brier pluck a white rose with me. Somerset. Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer, But dare maintain the party of the truth, Pluck a red rose from off this thorn with me. '1' i} K- 4! Plantagenet. Hath not thy rose a canker, Somerset P Somerset. Hath not thy rose a thorn, Plantagenet i i’ it i" * Wanda/7:. This brawl to day, Grown to this faction in the Temple Gardens, Shall send, between the red rose and the white, A thousand souls to death and deadly night—S'lmxi-spcare. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 115 THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN Not wholly in the busy world, nor quite Beyond it, blooms the garden that I. love.—-Tennyson. This garden is in the Inner Circle, Regent’s Park; its principal en- trance faces the York gate. The Royal Botanical Society of London, was incorporated in 1839, for the promotion of botany in all its branches, and its application to medicine, arts, and manufactures; also for the promotion of extensive botanical and ornamental gar- dens within the metropolis. The land forming the garden, which was formerly a nurser Y, now belongs to Her Majesty’s Commissioners of Woods and Forests, and consists of about ei hteen acres, but the grounds have been laid out with so much skill by fir. Marnock, the curator, whose good taste in such matters, is universally acknowledged, that it appears of very much greater extent. They are beautifully diversified by hill and 'dale, rural retreats, and winding walks; and water, that most essential element in an English landscape, has not been forgotten, for a charming lake of considerable extent occupies part of the south-east side, giving to that portion of the garden, in connection with the rustic hill, a pleas. mg and picturesque effect. THE WINTER GARDEN. Unconscious of a less propitious climc, There blooms exotic beauty, snug and warm, \Vhile the winds whistle, and the snow descends—Cowper. The conservatory, or winter garden, designed by Mr Decimus Burton, encloses an area of one hundred and seventy-five feet in length, and seventy-five feet in breadth; and forms about a fourth of the original design 5 it is a source of great attraction to the visitor, 116 ‘ ' LONDON. and is capable of accommodating two thousand persons. It consists of a series of curvilinear span-roofs, the centre one being thirty- five feet in height and fifty in width; and the two others on either side of it being about twenty-five feet in height, and the same in width. They are supported on rows of iron pillars, which are tubular, for the purpose of conducting rain water from the roofs to cisterns, to be made available for watering plants. The centre span has a semi- circular end, standing out about twenty-five feet from the front line of the building. A span-roof of the same height and width as the others, (twenty-five feet) starts from each side of the principal, or centre arch, and extending along the front at right angles to the other roof, pre- sents a fine looking frontage, resting on a perpendicular elevation of about fourteen feet, thus improving its general appearance, which would otherwise be of a zigzag form. At each end of the building, a curve, starting from the spring of the upper one, comes down near the grOund, forming, as it were, a lean—to curvilinear house, of about twelve feet in width but having no partition to divide it from the rest of the house. In the arrangement of the plants, they are grouped inmasses, on gravel, here and there relieved by a single specimen, or vase full of flowers; and besides mere green-house subjects, the culture of exotic orchids, palms, and other tropical plants, has been attempted in a portion of the building, out off from the rest. by a glass partition, based on ornamental rock-work. Three exhibitions are held annually, in the months of May, June, and July, when nearly 300 medals are distributed, varying in value from twenty pounds to fifteen shillings. Members’ entrance~fee, five guineas; annual subscription, two guineas. Admission may be ob- tained by a Fellow’s order. The annual exhibitions are advertised in the daily papers. —_ CHELSEA BOTANICAL GARDEN Established in 1676, by the Company of Apothecaries, as a physic gar- den. In 1685 we find in Evelyn’s diary, August 7th, “I went to see the Apothecaries’ garden of simples at Chelsea, where there is a collection 'of innumerable varieties of the sort; particularly, besides many rare annuals, the tree, bearing Jesuits bark, which has done such wonders in the quartian agues. What was very ingenious, was the subter— ranean heat conveyed by a stove under the conservatory, all vaulted With brick, so as he has the doors and windows open in the hardest frosts secluding the snow.” It is nearly square and covers about two acres of ground; the southern side being bounded by the river, and the northern by the King’s Road, the whole being surrounded by a lofty wall. The green-house, and two conservatories which adjoin it, are on the northern side, and the whole is laid out in walks, dividing the ground into square and oblong plots, of which there are a great many. On the western side, there is also a hot—house, of smaller dimensions, and two tanks of an oval shape, for the cultivation of aquatic plants, which are very old, and surrounded by stone in a THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 117 ruinous condition. On the southern side are two gigantic cedars of smgular shape, planted in 1683. The plants are generally in a very healthy state; but the gardens are susceptible of great improvement and many repairs are absolutely necessary. In the centre of the garden is a statue of Sir Hans Sloane, by Ruysbrack, erected in 1737. Open daily,‘ except Sundays. Admission by tickets, to be obtained at Apothecaries’ Hall, or through the intervention of members of that body. H~ CHELSEA HOSPITAL GARDENS. The grounds and gardens of the hospital, on the south side, form a very interesting promenade, especially during the summer season; the centre walk of lime trees, and the terrace bounded by the Thames, commanding all the diversified attractions of that portion of the river, being freely open to the public daily. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, Regent’s Park. These gardens, independent of their zoological at~ tractions, are probably the most delightful lounge in the metropolis. Equally suited to the amusement of the young and the old, the cheerful and the melancholy, the ignorant and the learned, all are here sure of enjoyment, at least; and it will be strange indeed, if instruction, in some shape or other, he not superadded; for is it not. indeed a sublime study to observe how beautifully the links in the great chain of nature are wrought, and how admirably are the habits and structure of some of these animals adapted to the wants of man, while all are subservient to some great purpose in the scale of creation. The gardens, which are of great extent and beauty, were opened in 1828, and were the first of the kind in this country, and are superior to any other for the same purpose in the world. They owe their origin to the energy of the late Sir Stamford Raffles, and Mr. Vigors, M.P. The grounds are extensive and tastefully disposed, and possess horticultural attractions in no mean degree, and so laid out as to best suit the numerous animals located within them, and at the same time with an unfailing attention to the picturesque beauty of the general. arrangement. From the rustic entrance lodges runs a broad terrace walk, bordered with a choice variety of flowers, and continued over the lower ground at the same level for some distance by a handsome viaduct; beneath which is a long range of roomy cages, forming one of the most striking objects in the gar- dens, and in which will be found an extensive collection of carnivorous animals. To the right of the terrace walk, immediately on entering, is a shaded winding path, an opening in the foliage of which discloses a fine View of the park; and in the foreground graze several rare I >118 LONDON. ruminant animals. Dispersed throughout the grounds with a view to produce as picturesque an effect as possible will be found numerous graceful buildings, admirably adapted for the wants of their various inmates, erected from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton. The reptile house is especially deserving of notice, containing as it does a larger collection of reptiles than in any preceding exhibition of the live animals of this class. - ~ ' i nuummu ' l ' l I. ' 54' i q u - - . .. - . 4 _Tl; I - - _ ————"‘l ‘4 t x v I , , - j I - ———m s v . . , , , :I' ._ -—-': : :Q i n a. l g . _ *. ._. g (1 i I i ' -: l ‘ 1' , - ~ E :2 § i l \ l I — : —— _ 2 I u I , ~ - —— :_»- T\\ ' 1 -3 . l l t n _—=—'—:-_.“_‘ , :\\\- . r a... . - EH. s ‘ " '— - ‘ "‘ ' " \ » . ' :. »'-:_ . . U "f_' H Lg: - _-_ W, __,. .—_1 . ,Q Wijf- ’ 2* - .Ef—jaf’ ’- . - , ~-'«=-—=.~—a:-?’ . . ~. \ - ~ 333/ ‘\ \\ \ _,.-_'_—_7 ' "D #21.“ \fi‘» ~ “&’WN£11 ._ ‘_ - -.W THE CARNIVORA CAGES. The collection of rare and beautiful specimens is large : on the 1st of January, 1850, it consisted of 1361 living animals. viz.: 354 mam- malia, 853 birds, and 164- reptiles, amongst which we would point out as most particularly worthy the attention of the visitor, a remark- ably fine specimen of the rhinoceros; an immense white polar bear ; the graceful giraflbs; the fierce aurochs ; the sacred Brahmin bull; the spotted leopard; the intelligent-looking seal; the patient llama; and an immense land tortoise, the gift of her Majesty; the kingly vultures; the soaring eagles; the swift ostrich; the fine collection of owls; the terrific pythons; and the deadly cobra capello. or hooded snake; but during the last few months the hippopotamus, and his Nubian keeper, have been the reigning favourites. The various animals are exhibited in paddocks, dens and aviaries, suited to their several habits. In 1830, \Villiam 1V. presented the society with the collection of animals from the Tower, and additions are constantly being made either by gift or purchase. Open daily, from nine o’clock AM. to sunset. On Sundays, to Fellows only. Admission, one shilling: on Mondays, Sixpence. The Societr’s Rooms are at No. 1 1,‘ Hanover Square. "THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 119 CREMORNE GARDENS, Chelsea, are situated on the north bank of the Thames, just above BatterSea bridge. These truly beautiful grounds, which are com- pletely surrounded by numerous lofty forest trees, consists of various open glades or lawns, connected with each other in a very agreeable manner. The river esplanade, divided from the rest by a road and bridged over by a handsome structure, is a pleasing walk, overlooking the Thames. The entertainments at these .gardens are of a similar character to those of Vauxhall; and from the more open situation of Cremorne, it has become a very popular place of resort. In the grounds is a handsome yet fantastic Chinese orchestra, Where concerts of vocal and instrumental music are performed. The rotunda is a noble and even elegant room, fitted up as a theatre, and capable, with its galleries, of accommodating nearly two thousand persons. On the right of this is a spacious lawn, many acres in extent, from whence day and night'balloon ascents are made, and Where archery is daily practised. In front of the theatre is an erection for the display of fireworks, which usually concludes the evening’s amuse- ments. Among other novelties, a series of aquatic tournaments are held during the season, in front of the river esplanade. \Vhen lighted up in the eveninrr, the effect of the whole ismeally dazzling, the wavy lines of the orchestra lamps, contrasting With the straight and formal lines in other parts of the gardens, the statues m the broad walk, each having a single lamp, and the various buildings, with their different devices, form a picturesque glare that 18 at once pleasing yet dazzling in the extreme. . T he. gardens are under the management of Mr. T. B. Simpson. THE PARKS AND GARDENS. 121 THE CRYSTAL PALACE AND PARK, Sydenham. The Crystal Palace is distant from London about 7 miles‘,‘ and may be reached by railway from London bridge, or by omnibus ‘ from Charing Cross; and it would, perhaps, have been impossible, to have chosen a better site for its re-erection, than this picturesque and healthy spot, protected by the trees from the taint of London smoke, and presenting, from the nature of the ground, facilities and oppor- tunities, of which Sir Joseph Paxton, and the skilful persons who: have charge of the undertaking, have ably availed themselves. The Crystal Palace, may fairly challenge comparison with anything the world has yet seen, for the majesty and beauty af its site and the ' grace, lightness, variety, and utilit of its fabric. Loftier in design, more varied in outline, with infinitely more of architectural beauty and pretension, it forms a landmark to which every eye instinctively' turns, in one of the fairest districts of England,and no longer fenced in. by the streets and squares of a mighty city, it now occupies as promi- nent and conspicuous a position in the prospect, as it is destined to do, in the history of London, and it stands forth from the horizon of the mighty city, an object for ever recalling, amid the hum and bustle of every day life, the existence of truths higher than those of the multiplication or interest table, and of tastes and enjoyments‘ which do not require wealth for their gratification. Unlike its predecessor, theereation of a few months, and the wonder of a few more, the mission of the new Crystal Palace purports to be not of an age, but for all time. It is not a toy to be used for a single summer and then thrown aside, but a permanent addition to the means of amusement and instruction possessed by England and the- world. It may with truth, be said to be a fair constantly open, a bazaar of new and ever varying attraction, an exhibition of all that is curious in art and beautiful in nature, the natural receptacle of every new invention, the natural laboratory for the constructive in- tellect of the country—such a building undertakes to discharge func- tions, of which the brief and glorious vision of the former exhibition may enable us to form some guess, but surely not a complete or ade-' quate conception. It is pleasing to view an old cathedral, and to think that there, for hundreds of years, the same worship has been offered under the same roof; but the destinies of this edifice are, in one re- spect, even more striking, for it is destined to behold and to contain the results of the gradual improvement of science, and to be the firit' witness of every victory which man wins from the hidden and reluct-- ant laws of nature. How puny and infantine are the triumphs we: have already obtained compared with those that lie before us, and on what spot of earth can descenda nobler destiny than to be the ap- pointed treasure-house of the spoils which the human intellect shall' bear off as trophies of its victories in the field of knowledge P By the choice of this site, a complete change became necessary in the external character of the building. What in Hyde Park was the side here becomes the front The great length of the old building, 122 LONDON. (1848 feet) prevented its being comprehended in one view; it was determined to shorten it 240 feet, the length of the new building is therefore 1608 feet. In consequence of the rapid fall of the ground an additional story became necessary on the park front of the building ; and this remedies a defect universally felt in the old building, viz. the little elevation of the front. . The new building has a centre transept, with a vast circular roof 120 feet in diameter, rising majestically over the circular roof of the nave; and two end transepts, similar to that of the old building. The trausepts with their aisles, advance from the main line of the building, and thus form a most majestic group ; at the intersection of the roofs of the transept and nave, are low square towers, adding immensely to the general effect. . Another improvement of vast importance is the introduction of nrched recesses in :the garden front at the ends of these transepts 24 feet deep; that of the centre transept, 194 feet high and 120 feet Wide; those of the side transepts, 124 feet high and 72 feet wide. , The ends of the building extend into large wings projecting a con- siderable distance foward into the grownds, and encompassing terrace- gardens occupying more than 30 acres. Attached to the south wing is the railway station, so arranged that persons descending from the railway carriages are at once introduced to the palace by that wing. The wings are terminated with grand glass towers, from which may be obtained extensive views of the gardens, fountains, and‘ grounds, and also a view of the surrounding country to a very great distance. The alterations and improvements that have taken place in the interior, are most striking and important, independent of the vast additional effect afforded by the increased height of the arched, trans- lucent nave, 44 feet higher than the old building. Advantage has been taken of the necessities of the construction of this important feature, to add greatly to the artistic effect of the interior. In the Exhibition building the effect was secured by the repetition of two simple elements, a column and a girder, and although great grandeur was thus obtained, there was hardly sufficient variety, :and the full effects of the vastness of the structure was not entirely realized. At the extreme ends'of the building, the columns and girders fell so rapidly one on the other, that the eye had no means of measuring the length; this defect had to be remedied in the new building, and it has been done in this wise—the columns and girders do not keep to one line as before, but every 72 feet, pairs of columns 24 feet apart, advance eight feet into the nave, and from these columns spring arched girders eight feet deep in lattice-work of wrough-iron which support the roof. These advancing columns are tied together and thus form groups of pillars, like those of a gothic cathedral. These groups occuring every 72 feet down the nave, thus furnish the eye wrth a means of measuring the building with it had not before, and when the pillars become clothed with creeping plants, "the charming grada~ tious of light and shade produced by the Side lights as they chequer the long arcade of living green, will have a beautiful effect. THE ASSYRIAN COURT. The length of the building is 1608 feet; or ‘204 feet less than the building of 1851, broken by three transepts instead of one, of which two are 136 feet in height, from the garden, with a span of 72 feet, and the third, 200 feet, with a span of 120 feet. The extreme breadth of the building, is 344 feet at the transept, or 72 feet less than the Hyde Park wonder, and this breadth is apparently further diminished hy'liiie arched roof, which now runs the full length of the whole u1 ma. The diminution of the length and breadth is in parts compensated by thecapacity of two wings which stretch out on either extremity 576 feet, into and so far enclose the Italian Terrace Garden; and also by a basement story, commonly called Sir J aseph Paxton’s Tunnel, the entire length of the building on the garden side. ' , The contents of the edifice are of a nature very dissimilar to those which adorned the Hyde Park building, in 1851. The whole of the sides of the nave, the transepts, and the divisions on either side between the several courts, are adorned with the plants, and trees of every'clime, interspersed with fountains, statues and other works of art. On the North-east side of the building is arranged the historical galleries of sculpture and architecture, with casts of the finest works of sculpture, and reproductions of portions of buildings of anment art. 0n the South-east side is displayed similar collections of mediaeval art; and in order to secure as perfect a collection of these obJects as money and intelligence could acquire, the ‘Directors commissioned 124 LONDON. Mr. Digby Wyatt and Mr. Owen' Jones to make an artistic tour through the principal cities of Europe, and Lord Malmesbury, kindly favoured those gentlemen with letters of introduction, expressive of the, sympathy of Government in their labours, addressed to the vari- ous ambassadors on their route ; the valuable acquisitions thus obtained are in the highest degree satisfactory. . The North-west and South-west divisions of the building, as well ._ as the whole of a 24 feet gallery running round the building, consti- , "tute the division of the Crystal Palace which is devoted to the exhibi- tion of manufactures and useful productions of every kind. The machinery is placed in the lower story on the park side called Sir Joseph Paxton’s 'l‘unnel, in a gallery 24 feet wide extending the whole length of the building, and the two wings which embrace the Ter- race gardens. ‘.-' The greater part of the gardens are upon the south front of the Palace, sloping down‘ a steep hill towards the Croydon line, and have ausuccession ot' terraces and grand flights of steps planned on a scale of surprising magnificence. ‘ Coming out at one of the three east entrances, that side of the PalaCe rests upon a high bank of made ground, thrown up partly to counteract the effects of the slope of the bill. This mound which extends the whole length of the building, is covered With a rich ver- dant turf. On the bank between the entrances, are groups of trees. Under each of the transept arches are the grand entrances to the building, formed by lofty flights of steps of solid granite. Those at the east and west ends, are about 80 feet, and the principal one in the centre 100 feet broad. To add to the effect of these avenues, the steps are flanked on either side with massive blocks of granite, which are surmounted at the termination by colossal stone sphinxes, model~ led by Brucciani, from the original in the Museum of the Louvre. Each of the sphinxes is 24 feet long, by 7 feet high ; and though such proportions are by no means insignificant, yet they look mere baga- telles when compared with the gigantic designs around them. The following are the arrangements for the admission of the Public. Shilling Days—Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, are Shilling days. At the gates a payment of one shilling each will admit the public; or tickets, entitling the holder to admission to the Palace and Park, and also to conveyance along the Crystal Palace Railway, from London-bridge Station to the Palace and back. On Saturdays, the admission is Five Shillings each person. Children under twelve years of age are admitted at half the above rates. The Palace and Park are opened on Mondays, at Nine o’clock; on Tuesdays, Wednesdays. Thursdays, and Fridays, at Ten o’clock a.m. ; and on Saturdays, at Twelve O’clock ; and close every day an hour before sunset. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. 125 r, v . ‘- 5 l p ’ l SURREY ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, Manor Place, Walworth. These gardens were originally formed by Mr. Cross, in 1831—2, who removed hither the whole of 'his splendid collectieti of animals on the demolition of Exeter ’Change, formerly known as the itinerant menagerie of Mr. Polito. The grounds, which are picturesque and occupy about fifteen acres having been tastefully laid out under the superintending care of Mr. Phillips, and the avenues to the several buildings planted with upwards of two hundred varieties of the most choice and hardy forest trees, of this and other countries, forming a complete arboretum, all of which are clearly labelled. KEW GARDENS. These gardens are pleasantly situated near the river Thames, and are about five miles from Hyde Park Corner, on the road to Richmond. The entrance to thc Botanic Gardens, is on the west side of Kew Green. The very ornamental gates and piers, were erected in 1845, from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton, the architect to the gardens. The grounds were originally laid out according to the plans of the Princess Dowager of Wales, mother of George 111. They are HOW under the direction of Sir William Hooker, the eminent botanist, and contain the finest collection of plants in Europe. The great Palm House, erected at a cost of £20.000, is a truly magnificent structure, and the rare and extensive collection of tropical plants within its crystal walls, are a irch treat to every lover of nature. . Open to the public, daily, throughout the year, from one 13111 5111 o’clock. Admission, free. 126 LONDON. CHAPTER VI. LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL ESTABLISHMENTS. —— In Britain-land A matchless form of glorious government, In which the sovereign laws alone command, Laws established by the public free consent, ‘Vhose majesty is to the sceptre lent—lemrLs-M. —— THE PALACE OF WESTMINSTER, 0R NEW HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. An edifice destined to receive the great powers of the state, and to endure, in all human probability, as long as Englan is the seat of freedom and power. The towers of this enormous building are crowned by mayestic symbols of the British monarchy; its walls are girt with the heraldic inSIgnia of a long race of kings; its chambers glow with all the associations of chivalry, of religion, and of justice; and the Palace of Westminster will, ere long, comprise, as in one perfect whole, the stable memorials of our national history, and the living organs of our political strength—Times, Jan. 17th, 1850. The New Palace of Westminster is not the palace merely of a great monarch, but of the first and noblest constitutional government in the world. As ,St. Peter’s to the Roman Catholic communion, as our own St. Paul’s to the churches of the Reformation, so are the Halls of Westminster to the cause of constitutional liberty all over the world. The rebuilding of this vast edifice, is, without doubt the most import- ant architectural work which has been undertaken in this country since the re-edification of St. Paul’s Cathedral. So colossal a pile of building has not been erected in London since that period; nor so magnificent a specimen of Gothic architecture in England since the construction of Henry VlI.’s chapel; and it may be truly added, that in arrangement, detail, warming, and ventilation combined, so perfect a structure was never befcn'e planned, so far as can be judged from recorded art of past ages, or the experience of our own time. The old Houses having been destroyed by fire, October 15th, 1834, the present magnificent structure was commenced, from the designs of C Barry, Esq., in 1840, and is now rapidly approaching completion. The riverfront includes the residence for the Speaker, at the north LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL Esrasusnusnrs. 127 end, the corresponding-terminal towards the south being the residence for the Usher 1‘ the .Black Rod. Between the two extremes, and com rising th. are called the curtain portions, are the libraries for the House of Peers, and the libraries for the House of Commons: in the immediate centre is the conference-room for the two Houses. All this is on the principal floor, about fifteen feet above the terrace, or high-water mark. The whole of the floor above the libraries, and overlooking the river, is appropriated to committee-rooms, for the purposes of parliamentary business; the Peers occupying about one- third towards the south, and the Commons two-thirds towards the north. The House of Peers and House of Commons are situated in the rear of the front building, or that next the river; and will, when completed, be enclosed also towards the west, so as to be entirely sur rounded by parliamentary offices. THE RIVER FRONT. The - lan of this truly national edifice is extremely simple and beautifu . The central hall, an octagon of seventy feet square, is reached through St. Stephen’s Hall and porch, communicating, b noble flights of steps, with Westminster Hall, and forming an approach of unequalled magnificence. From the central hall, a corridor to the north leads to the Commons’ lobby and House of Commons; and a corridor to the south, to the Peers’ lobby and the House of Peers. In a line with the House of Lords, still further to the south, are the Victoria Hall, the R0 a1 Gallery, and the Queen’s Robing Room, communicating with the Royal staircase and the Victoria Tower, at the south-West corner of the pile, now rearing itself in Abingdon Street, intended for her Majesty’s state entrance. The construction throughout is externally of hard magnesian lime- stone, from North Anstone, in Yorkshire, near Worksop, N ottingham- shire. It is a beautiful close-grained stone, of a texture considerably LONDON harder than Portland, and somewhat warmer in comur. The interiOr stone-work is from Caen. The bearers of the floors are of castairon, with brick arches turned from girder to girder; the entire roofs are of wrought-iron, covered with cast—iron plates, galvanized; so that the carcases of the entire buildings are fire-proof, not any timber having been used in their construction. The whole building stands on a bed of concrete, twelve feet thick; and the materials already used, include from eight to nine hundred thousand tons of stone, twenty- four millions of bricks, and five thousand tons of iron. Some idea of the magnitude of this national edifice may be formed when it is stated that the Palace to the eastward presents a frontage of nearly one thousand feet. When complete it will cover an area of nine statute acres: the great tower, at the south-western extremity, which has already been raised to the height of one hundred and eighty feet, will ultimately reach the gigantic elevation of three hundred and forty-six feet. Towers of lesser magnitude will crown other portions of the buiding. Fourteen halls, galleries, vestibules, and other apart- ments of great capacity and noble proportion will be contained within its limits. It comprises eight official residences, each first rate man~ sions : twenty corridors and lobbies are required to serve as the great roadways through this aggregate of edifices: thirty-two noble apart- ments, facing the river, will be used as committee-rooms. Libraries, waiting-rooms; dining-rooms, an'd clerks offices, exist in superabundant measure. Eleven greater courts, and a score of- minor openings, give light and air to the interior of this superb fabric. Its cubic contents exceed fifteen millions of feet; being one-half greater than St. Paul’s; and it contains not less than between five and six hundred distinct apartments, amongst which will be a chapel for Divine worship, formed out of the crypt of old St. Stephen’s. ST. STEPHEN’S HALL is approached by a spacious flight of steps from Westminster Hall, and serves as the principal public entrance and vestibule ; it will be adorned with twelve statues, and frescoes, as well as other decorations and enrichment. THE CENTRAL HALL. The most imposing in its architectural character and form, if not in splendour of polychromatic decoration, is the central Hall, one of the most magnificent portions of the New Palace at Westminster; its exquisite proportions and enrichments cannot fail to excite uni- versal admiration. Its groined roof, with its huge bosses of elaborate detail, rival any specimens of Gothic architecture in England, and are worthy of the great architect’s renown. In plan the Hall is octangular, having door-ways at the four cardinal points, leading to the two Houses of Parliament, and above them will be introduced the representations of the four patron Saints,—St. George, St. An- drew, St. Patrick, and St. David, to be executed in Mosaic, (like the four Evangelists in the pendentives of the cupola of St. Peter’s) LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL Esmemszmasrs. 129 and will -thus afford an opportunity for the introduction of an art hi hly valued in other times and countries. the three small spaces underneath three of the compartments, will be introduced heraldic emblazonings of the Order of the Garter, of the Thistle, and of St. Patrick; Whilst at the ‘four corners, lofty windows of beautiful tracery, thirty-one feet in height, admit light into the Hall. The Hall is sixty feet high, and sixty-three feet wide, and the groins, springing from pillars at the angles, are two feet three inches in depth. At the angles of intersection in the groins are bosses, eight of them decorated with the royal arms from Richard II. to Victoria, and thirty-two with badges and other heraldic insignia: there are also eight angels, bearing shields of the four kingdoms alternately. Round the splay of the windows and blank arches for frescoes, is a bold moulding of roses, having crowns at intervals. The models of the bosses are by Mr. Thomas, and do him infinite credit, fi'om their variety and richness of design; and the masonry of the whole is most beautifully worked. ‘ From the central hall, a corridor to the south leads to the Peers’ lobby and the House of Peers; and a similar lobby to the north, to the Commons’ lobby and the House of Commons. THE PEERS’ LOBBY. From the central hall, access is obtained to this, the vestibule of the Upper House, through the Peers’ corridor, by the north door; it is a great triumph of art, and a fine specimen of exquisite, though subdued beauty; its decorations, both architectural and pictorial, being extremely elegant and appropriate. It carries the spectator back to the period of the middle ages, and brings the descriptions 1f Froissart and Monstrelet fresh to the recollection. The plan of the lobby is a square of about thirty-five feet, each side being divided by buttresses into a wide central, and two smaller compartments. The lower division of each buttress is square, panelled on the face, gabled with crocketing and finials, resting on a a deeply-moulded base: the upper is octagonal, moulded, and having a small angular buttress on its face. At the tops of the buttresses are demi-angels, coroneted; bearing shields, surmounted by the Garter, with “V. R.” entwined by a cord, upon them. From the angels spring the spandrils that support the roof. The ceiling is divided into compartments, and is exceedingly chaste and effective. T he floor is paved with encaustic tiles, by Minton, and is of surpassing beauty. The south door, by which access is obtained to the Bar of the House, corresponds in its general form to those on the other sides of the lobby, having six arches over it, embellished, like them With the royal armorial bearings; but in the details of the archway itself, far greater magnificence is displayed. The arch is deepl moulded, and round it rose-leaves, well chiselled and richly gilde ,form an elaborate and appropriate enrichment; whilst at in- tervals, Tudor roses, very boldly sculptured in alto-relief, royally crowned, painted and gilded, add their gorgeous hues to the whole. At each corner of the lobby is a magnificent Gothic standard of brass for gas-lights. . 130 LONDON. THE HOUSE OF LORDS Is situated on the northern side of the building, about two hundred yards east of the Victoria Tower; the exterior p1 esents no enriched architectural features; but its massive walls are well proportioned, and please the eye by their solid appearance. As seen from the House Court, the exterior shows a low and boldly embattled portion, resting on an arcade of flattened arches, with windows of square form, traceried, and having moulded weather-tables; a string-course, with pateree, runs along above the window. This portion serves as the corridor of the House, and projects many feet from the main building. Above this, the six finely-proportioned windows of the House are seen; and between each a plain massive buttress. The windows have weather-tables, anda string-course, with paterzfe, decorates the walls above the windows, whilst lofty battlements crown the whole. The interior presentsa noble room, ninety feet by forty-five feet; and in height forty feet: without doubt the finest specimen of Gothic architecture in Europe. The general effect on entering, is gorgeous in the extreme: such a blaze of gilding, carving and coloured decora— tions is not to be elsewhere found in England ; whilst the noble pro— portions of the apartment, the elaborately carved panels, and the brilliant colours which meet the eye on every side, contribute to pro- duce a coup d’ceil at once startling and beautiful. At the upper end is the throne which her Majest occupies on state occasions: to the right in a chair for the Prince of "Vales: and to the left a corresponding one for Prince Albert. The Lord Chancellor sits immediately below . the throne on what is called the Woolsack. In the centre is the clerks’ table, which together with the chairs, are formed of oak, by Mr. Webb of Old Bond Street; and to the right and left are benches, covered with red morocco leather, for the exclusive use of the Peers. The ceiling is most striking in its appearance; the massive tie-beams. apparently of solid gold, so richly bedight as they are with that pre- cious metal, and the minute carving which fills up the lozenge-formed compartments, aided by the glowing and harmonious colours of the devices, painted on the flat surface of the ceiling, all produce an ab- solutely imposing and gorgeous effect. The House is lighted by twelve windows, six on each side, ornamented with quatrefoil tracery, filled with stained glass, executed by Messrs. Ballantinc and Allan, of Edinburgh, representing the kings and queens of Scotland and England, both con~ sort and regnant, chronologically arranged from \Villiam the Norman, to William IV. From the windows downwards, the walls are lined with elaborately-carved oak panelling: at every third panel is an ex— fiiisitely1 carved pillar, crowned with a bust of one of the kings of nolan . :i‘t each end of the apartment are three archways, correspond- ing in size and mouldings with the windows; on the surface of the wall, within the arches, are the following fresco paintings, illus- trative of the functions of the House of Lords, and of the relation in which it stands to the Sovereign. In the recesses at the south end are the following z—Edward III. conferring the Order of the Garter upon Edward the Black Prince. bv C. W. Cope, A.R.A. ; the bap- LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL Esmemsnmnnrs. 131 {ism of Ethelbert, the first Christian king of England, by W. Dyce, A.R.A.; Prince Henry, afterwards Henry V., acknowledging the authority of Chief Justice Gascoigne, by C. W. Cope, A.R.A. In the recesses at the north end, are the following :-—an Allegory of Jus- tice, by D. Maclise, R.A.; the spirit of Religion exemplified in the faith and hope of the Cross of Christ, in the subjection of all earthly power, and human distinctions, to His will, and in the common dependance of all estates and conditions of men on His word, by J. C. Horsly; and the Spirit of Chivalry, by D. Maclise, R.A. Between the windows and the arches at the ends, and in the corners of the House, are niches, rather lighter in colour than the piers, relieved with gildin g, and partly with colour, the background being painted a' diapered pattern, in chocolate brown, with gold, richly canopied; the pedestals within which are supported by demi-angels holding shields, charged with the armorial bearings of the Barons who wrested Magna Charta from King John, and whose efligies, in all eighteen, will be placed in the niches; the Commissioners conceiving “that the difference of character as laymen, or as prelates, would afford a picturesque variety of attire, and that the historical analogy would he most suitably ob- tained, by placing side by side, in the same House of the Legislature, in windows or in niches, the successive holders of sovereign power, and the first founders of constitutional freedom.” The Peeresses’ Gal- lery occupies both sides of the House; and at the north end are two galleries, the lower one being the reporters’ gallery, and the upper one the strangers’ gallery. The apartment is lighted by ten brass candelabra of exquisite workmanship, and thirty-two branch lights, burning gas on F araday’s ventilating principle. The Bar of the House, is at the end opposite the throne, without which, the Usher of the Black Rod is stationed. The House is heated by an impervious floor, warmed from under- neath with hot air, like a Roman bath. The whole of the interior of the House of Lords, including the ceiling, is composed of the most elaborate joiner’s work, by Mr. Grissell, and is entirely of Riga wainscot of the finest quality throughout, no composition ornaments being used in any part, and it has been subsequently decorated and gilded, in the ablest manner, by Messrs. Crace and Son, of \Vigmore Street. Access to the House, during the sitting of Parliament, may be ob: tained on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, when the Lord Chan- cellor hears appeals; and on Saturdays, from eleven to five o’clock, by tickets to be had on application at the Lord Chancellor’s office, every \Vednesday. Descriptive Guide, Clarke’s Hand-Book, price 6d. THE CORRIDORS. On each side of the House are two doors, one near either end, leading into corridors, which are used by the Peers for divisions. The doors are panelled in the lower part, and filled with open-worked arches in the upper, which are glazed with plate- glass. The corridors, eight feet three inches wide, are very handsomely panelled, and ceiled with oak, and extend the whole length of the House. Their appearance is singularly rich and effective, the warm colour of the panelling harmonizing thoroughly with the stained glass and the rich blue of the carpet; the windows are square- headed, divided by mullions, and traceried. The glass is richly diapered; and in labels running diagonally, the motto “ Dieu et mon Droit ” is many times repeated. In recesses opposite to the windows are seats cushioned and covered with red leather. In the recesses, also, are branches for gas; and opposite the doors leading from the House, globe lights hang from the ceiling. Above these principal corridors are others, destitute of decoration, whence ingress is obtained to the Peeresses’ Gallery. This upper corridor is lighted by small quatrefoil-shaped windows and gas-lights are pendant from the roof. The libraries and committee-rooms generally-are lined with Riga wainscot and have wood-panelled ceilings. THE VICTORIA HALL. By two doors, one on either side of the throne, access is obtained from the House of Lords to the Victoria Hall, a kind of withdrawing room, answering to the Peers’ lobby below the bar. The walls are each divided into three compartments; those on the east and west having fire-places in the centres, and doors into the lobbies in the side divisions; the south side has only a lofty arched doorway, communicating with the Royal Gallery in its central di- vision; whilst in the centre, on the north side, is an archway to correspond, though it is merely an enrichment to a blank wall; and in the side divisions are doors leading into the House of Lords. The walls are panelled to a considerable height, having a deep frieze, with an elaborate cresting to it, running all round the room. On the north and south sides, the walls above the panelling are, at present covered with drapery of a dark marone, having roses and crowns dia- ered upon it in gold colour, as a temporary ornament to blank walls; it being intended to have copies, in tapestry, of the Defeat of the Spanish Armada, taken either in part or altogether from the designs of the tapestry originally existing in the old House of Lords, and frescoes painted in the vacant spaces between the pillars. Commissions have been given to Mr. Cope, Mr. Horsley, Mr. Savern, Mr. Herbert, and Mr. Tenniel, jun. The east and west ends have each three windows above the panel- ling, filled with stained glass, representing the rose, thistle, and shamrock, surmounted by royal crowns, each Window being dixdded by mullions into three days or lights, having quatrefoiled heads and trace . 'l‘hleycciling is divided by massive tie-beams into nine large compart- ments, and each of these is again divided into eight by small ribs. at the intersections of which, and at their junctions with the tie- beams, are exquisitely sculptured bosses, all varied in character, and“ richly gilded. f.t the intersections of the tie-beams are bosses of great diversity, richness, and vigour of design; consisting of lions in varied atti- LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL ESTABLISHMENTS. I33 tudes, surrounded by a bold foliage, gilded, and painted in vivid tints. The surface of the ceiling is painted a dark blue. The fire-places are of elegant design and elaborate workmanship. The opening for the fire is a 10W arch, deeply recessed; the sides and back, incrusted with red and blue encaustic tiles, having the lions of England and the royal monogram on them respectively. The carpet is of the same pattern as that in the House of Lords, a. deep blue, powdered with gold-coloured roses. THE ROYAL GALLERY. Beyond the Victoria Hall is the Royal Gallery; a noble apartment, one hundred and eight feet in length, forty~five feet wide, and forty- five feet high. From this gallery the Queen will proceed, when robed, to the House of Lords, from which it is separated only by the Victoria Hall. It is intended that the walls of this magnificent gal- .ery shall be decorated with fresco paintings of subjects'relating to the history and glory of the country. The royal procession, through this gallery, into the chamber of Peers, on state occasions, must have a most magnificent appearance. THE QUEEN’S ROBING ROOM. Beyond the Royal Gallery is the Queen’s Robing Room, havmg an elaborate ceiling similar in character to that of the Chapel Royal, at St. James’s Palace; formed into compartments by richly carved mould- ings, relieved with gilding and colours, and the flat surfaces diapered, having heraldic devices, insignia, and other ornaments on a gold ground; the walls are wainscotted to the height of about eight feet, above which are frescoes, illustrating the exploits of King Arthur, painted by Mr. Dyce. ‘ THE GUARD ROOM. The ceiling of which is of oak, and the walls wainscotted with the same, to the height of about eight feet, above which will be placed fresco paintings of young Talbot defending his father in battle, and Isabella Douglas barring the door to protect James I. of Scotland. In the adjoining lobby, the subject in fresco, will be St. Edward the Martyr slain by the Danes. THE NORMAN PORCH. So called from the intention that exists to illustrate in its frescoes the Norman History of England, and to place there statues of the Norman line, from William I. to Edward IV., the series being con- tinued in the Queen’s Robing Room, the Royal Gallery, and the Victoria Hall. The royal staircase on the north side of this noble porch is very picturesque in effect. K 134 oxnox. THE VICTORIA TOWER which is intended to serve as the royal entrance, has been carried '1p to the height of one hundred and eighty feet, and will ultimately reach the gigantic height of three hundred and forty feet; its pro- portions are truly magnificent, whilst the sculptured enrichments of the stupendous arches, are proportionally grand; the roses in the mouldings are nearly twelve feet in diameter, and the crowns sup- porting them are fourteen inches in height, and project nearly fifteen inches from the moulding face ; the height of the royal arms within the crown of the inner arch, is nearly ten feet. Flanking the main arch upon pedestals are placed the royal supporters, crowned. THE HOUSE OF COMMONS \Vhich is situated on the north of the central hall, and is now ap- proached through Westminster Hall by a spacious flight of steps leading to St. Stephen’s porch, is almost of the same dimensions as the House of Lords ; being eighty-three feet in length from wall to wall, forty-five feet in width, and the same in height. The ceiling is divided into eighteen compartments, by moulded ribs, each space being again subdivided into panels. The lobby, south of the bar, the corridor leading to the lobby, and the division-rooms, to the east and west of the House, have all similarly formed ceilings. The windows that range along the east and west walls are twelve in number, six on each side. They have eight lights, and are divided in the middle by a transum, with the head full of tracery. It is intended to fill them with stained glass, with the arms of the principal cities in England. To show the effect, there is a specimen stained glass window, representing the arms of the city of London. Below the windows the walls are lined with carved oak panelling, left of its natural colour. Twenty-two shafts (eleven on each side), of the most delicate symmetry. support the gallery, which is formed like the fittings throughout, of oak; and above the front of it is a metal railinO'. Underneath the stone corbels of the massive shafts that support the roof there will, probably, be branch lights, though this is at present undetermined. For the purpose of ventilation, the floor of the House is composed entirely of perforated iron, coveredwith a matting of peculiar texture. The benches for the members are covered with red Morocco leather, and range in six rows on either side. The gallery over the Speaker’s chair is set apart for the reporters. The traceried openings above the Speaker’s chair are filled in with open metal work, to screen the ladies’ gallery. At the bar end is a large gallery for the accommodation of strangers. During the session of Parliament, admission to hear the debates may be obtained by an order from a member. During the recess the House may be seen by sp'angers, on payment of a small fee to those who have the charge 0 1t! .mZOHEmOO mo mmDOHH HEB MO flOHmmHZH mu can :aaagaaasaga LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 137 WESTMINSTER HALL, New Palace Yard, was built as a banqueting-room to the ancient Palace of Westminster, by \Villiam Rufus, in 1097, and considerably enlarged by Richard II., in 1397, under the direction of John Botterell, architect. It is one of the largest rooms in Europe un- supported by pillars, being two hundred and thirty-eight feet long, sixty-eight feet broad, and ninety feet high; and has a most noble carved roof, of chestnut wood, most curiously constructed, and of a. noble species of Gothic. It is everywhere adorned with angels, sup- porting the arms of Richard II., or those of Edward the Confessor; as is the stone moulding that runs round the Hall, with the hart couchant under a tree, and other devices of the former monarch. As a proof of its size, it may be mentioned that Richard II. kept his Christmas festival in the new Hall, accompanied with all that splen- dour and magnificence for which his court was conspicuous; and that on this occasion, twenty-eight oxen, three hundred sheep, and fowls without number, were consumed. The number of guests on each day of the feast amounted to ten thousand, and two thousand cooks were employed. Parliament often sat in this Hall. In 1397, when it was extremely ruinous, Richard II. built a temporary room for his Parliament, formed of wood, and covered with tiles. The fine Gothic windows at the ex- tremities were re-constructed by John Gayfere, in 1820, and the Hall thoroughly repaired during the two following years; and agaln par- tially, after the burning of the Houses of Parliament, in 1834; at the south end, has been added by Mr. Barry, a spacious flight of steps, leading to St. Stephen’s porch, it being intended to make the Hall serve as the principal public entrance and vestibule to the Houses of Parliament, and as a public gallery, adorned with statues of great men, and other enrichmentS' 'lhe front is adorned With two stone 1338 LONDON. towers, ornamented with rich sculpture; and on the centre of the root in a lantern of considerable height, erected in 1821. INTERIOR OF WESTMINSTER HALL. The Hall itself has often been used for the purpose of state trials; within its walls, 111 16l8, was witnessed the extraordinary spectacle of a sovereign defending himself before a jury composed of his own subjects; a trial which finds no parallel in the annals of English ju- risprudence; and here at a later period. owing to the fierce and withering invective of Burke, and the glowing, impassioned eloquence of Sheridan, \Varren Hastings, for/ seven years endured a world- wide unenviable notoriety. This remarkable trial. which occupied one hundred and thirty days, was continued at intervals from 1768 to 1794. In the Hall Cromwell was inaugurated. and here likewise have been held all the coronation feasts of the sovereigns of England. Since the reign of Henry 111., the courts of Chancery, Exchequer, Queen’s Bench, and Common Pleas, have been held in different apart- ments of this spacious edifice, at which, in ancient days, the king administered justice in person. In 1824, under the direction of Sir John Soane, a series of small, close, undignified apartments were erected for the Courts of Law, the entrances to which are from this Hall, and within them during Term time, the eloquence of the greatest men at the English Bar may be listened to with interest, for, “like a t agedy,” says the author of “Ion,” “a momentous trial embraces within a. few hours an important action—condenses human interests, and hopes, and passions within its circle—is restrained, bounded, and dignified by solemnities and forms, which define it. as a thing apart from the common succession of human aflhirs—developes, sometimes, affecting traits of generosity, or is graced by the beauty of suffering -——and is terminated by a catastrophe which may decide character, fortune, or life itself.” LEGISLAT VE AND LEGAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 139’ THE TEMPLE. Those bricky towers, The Which on Thames’ broad aged back do ride, \Vhere-nowthe studious lawyers have their bowers . There Whilom wont the Templar Knights to bide, Till they decayed through pride—Spenser. The Temple is an irregular pile of buildings, so called from having been anciently the residence of an Order denominated Knights Templars, who settled here in the reign of Henry II. Led by indo- lence and luxuryme the rigid obligations of a religious life, they were suppressed in 1310, when their vast possessions fell to the Knights of St. John, who soon after let the buildings on this spot to students-at-law, and in the possession of that class it has since con- tinued. It is now divided into two societies, called the Inner and Middle Temples, and having the name in common with Lincoln’s Inn and Gray’s Inn, of Inns of Court. ‘ 'lfillmfllfllfl‘fillllllllflfilflmiy’ ‘ 1/ “a w . iii; 3‘13; ll ,1 t”: l I it“ Milt, «"flll'l '* L‘” mu'lfl‘; 3}“, , mail J l ' L -"u,|,_, ENTRANCE TO THE INNER TEMPLE. The buildings of the T emple reach from Fleet Street to the Thames, and fromLombard Street, VVhitefriars, to Essex Street 1n the Strand, LONDON. east and west. The access to these “ Inns of Court,” with the squares. courts, and gardens, is by means of gateways and lanes branching ofl‘ from the main streets, and give but little indication of their leading to such celebrated establishments. The entrance to the Inner Temple is by a low, but characteristic gateway, facing Chancery Lane, adjoining to which is a building of considerable antiquity, said to be a portion of the old palace formerly belonging to Henry VIII. This interesting relic is at present in the occupation of Messrs. Honey and Skelton, hair-dressers, and perfumers. These gentlemen, having a just appreciation of the beauty andIinterest of the building, and feeling that the time-honoured residence of a king, must add dignity to their tasteful art, have sought to preserve and perpetuate its principal features. The house, notwithstanding numerous modern alterations, bears undoubted evidences of considerable antiquity, having escaped the ravages of the great fire in 1666, which stopped within a few yards of the venerable Temple Church. The exterior is ornamented with plain square pilasters, once elaborately carved, between which are the Prince of \Vales’ feathers, and other enrichments, highly gilt. In the drawing-room still remains some fine oak carving, and an elabo- rately ornamented ceiling, with polychromatic decorations, having in the centre the Prince of \Valcs’ feathers, and the initials P. H., in allusion to Prince Henry, son of James I., elder brother to the unfor- tunate Charles I. The entrance to the Middle Temple, near to Temple Bar, was built by Sir Christopher Wren, in 1684, and is a fine structure, having a graceful front of brickwork, with four large stone pilasters, of the Ionic order, supporting a pediment, with an inscription. THE INNER TEMPLE HALL was built in 1678; the front facing the Thames, is of Portland stone with three buttresses, and a semi-sexagon turret. The entrance is through a large door in a western wing, or projecting building. Over the entrance are three shields of arms, viz. ; the royal arms of Richard 1., Henry IV., and George IV.; above the whole is a clumsy quatre- foil enclosing the arms of the Inner Temple. The interior is elegantly decorated, and contains portraits of several of the judges, amongst which are those of Judges Lyttleton and Coke ; Sir Thomas Twisden, Justice of the King’s Bench in 1660; the Lord Chancellor, Sir Simon Harcourt, first Earl of Nottingham ; and Richard \Vest, Lord Chancellor of Ireland. Besides these, there are portraits of King William and Queen Mary, Queen Anne, George II., and Queen Caroline. Before the Hall is a spacious garden, laid out with great care, and kept in perfect order. It lies along the river, and has a spacious gravel walk, or terrace, on the water's edge. In the summer evenings . it is an agreeable and much-frequented resort. Open from six o’clock till dusk LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 341 Ewan—- A ‘ ”Ti 6‘51!“ - p z a; 7.3.1:. .r v- ‘ii ‘1 | it t .l. —‘ THE MIDDLE TEMPLE HALL. “ Gray’s Inn for walks, Lincoln’s Inn for wall, The Inner Temple for a garden, and the Middle for a hall." This hall, which is spacious and elegant, was erected in 1562~l572, and has been the scene of many festive meetings. In 1830-32, it underwent an entire restoration, the entrance consisting of a square tower with smaller octagonal towers at the angles, having been re- built, which causes it to appear much more modern than its real age might lead us to expect. It is one hundred feet long, sixty feet wide, and upwards of forty feet in height. The roof combines solidity with elegance in an eminent degree; the arches and pendants being chastely and boldly carved. The screen at the east end is a most ex- quisite and elaborate specimen of Elizabethan wood carving, not to be excelled in London. It is profusely laboured into columns, fo- liage, fruit, niches, and emblematic figures, with the utmost bold- ness, and effect; the delicacy of the ornaments, and the spirit of the figures being equally worthy of praise. The windows are filled with stained glass, exhibiting the armorial bearings of different members of the Inn; and the oak panels beneath them, that runs round the side of the Hall, are also devoted to similar heraldic display. Immedi- ately above these panels are placed busts of the twelve Caesars, six on each side, down the entire length of the building. At the west end, opposite the entrance-doors, is the raised dais, and here are arranged some valuable pictures. In the centre is Vandyck’s celebrated eques- trian portrait of Charles I., passing through a triumphal arch, and attended by his armour-bearer, who carries his helmet; a. dupllcate of 142 . LONDON. this picture is at Hampton Court, on either side of it are placed por- traits (chiefly copies) of Charles IL, James IL, \Villiam 111., Queen Anne, and George 1., and a curious old painting of the Judgment of Solomon. Upon pedestals immediately in front of the dais, are busts of Lords Eldon and Stowell, by Bchnes. The garden is small, but pleasant and retired; and is said to have been the scene of the first fatal quarrel between the Houses of York and Lancaster. —-—_ LINCOLN’S INN, Situated to the south of Holborn, and adjoining Chancery Lane, derives its name from Henry de Lacey, Earl of Lincoln, who had a stately mansion on this spot, which, just before his death, in 1310, he appro- priated to the uses of a society for the study of the law. The gate-house, forming the principal external feature of the old buildings, is in Chanceryb Lane; it is of brick, and was built by Sir 'lhomas Lovell, and bears upon it the date 1518. This interesting piece of aichitecture is now almosc the only specimen in London, of so early a date. The masonic towers by which it is flanked, are square and lofty, giving height and importance to the general design of the buildings. The chambers adjoining are of a somewhat later pe- riod, and it may be, perhaps, to that portion of the edifice that Fuller alludes in speaking of Ben Jonson, when he says that “he helped in the building of the new structure of Lincoln’s Inn, when having a trowel in one hand, he had a book in the other.” THE OLD HALL, Standing in the first court, opposite the entrance—gate from Chancery Lane, is the oldest edifice of the Inn now 1emaining,ha\ing been erected in 1506. In 1800, the cxte1io1 was repaned axid stuccoed by Beinasconi, \\ hich has gix e11 it a modem and a mean appeaIance. The hall 18 about seventy one foot 111 length, and thi1ty-two feet in width, and has 011 each side tl11ee 15 111dows 011 the dais is the seat of the Lo1d Chancellor who holds his sittings he1e du1 mg a portion of the year Since the e1ection oi the new buildings, it has: been disused as a dining hall, and 18 now used only fo1 the t,sittings oi the Court of Chancel5. At the lowe1 end of the 100111 is a Dmassixe sc1ee11, erected in 1665, decorated 15 1th g1otesque canings, and emblazoned with the full achievements of I1111¢r Cl1a1les II, James, Duke of Yo1k, P1 1110c Rupe1t, the Earl of Manchester, and other noblcmen, and dated 1671. At the southei 11 end of the hall, in fiont of the screen, is a statue of L01d Chancellor Eiskine, by \Vestmacott, and one of that artist’s finest wo1l1s THE NEW HALL AND LIBRARY, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. This noble building, which claims attention not less for its architectui a1 beauty than fo1 its magnitude, was com- pleted within the short space of two years and a halt from its foundation, LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 143 THE NEW HALL, the first stone having been laid April 20th, 1843; it was built from designs by Philip Hardwick, Esq., R.A., and contains a dining hall, one hundred and twenty feet long, forty-five feet wide, and fifty- t'our feet high; and a library for the benchers and students, capable of containing thirty thousand volumes. The external walls are of red brick and stone; and the roof an open timbered one, of the character used in the sixteenth century, about the period when the Inn was established for the study of the law. Above the apex of the great gable of the hall is a large highly ornamented niche, containing a statue of her Majesty Queen Victoria, the work of Mr. John Thomas, celebrated for his numerous productions in the decorative parts of the New Palace of \Vestminster. A fine terraced walk is formed on the east side of the building, and continued to the northern extremity of the garden. In the Hall is placed Hogarth’s picture of Paul before Felix. THE CHAPEL Is situated north of the old hall, and is elevated on an open crypt of three arches, separated by buttresses of six gradations ; the arches are richly covered with tracery, quatrefoils, and geometrical figures, and at the period of its erection, was used as an ambulatory, or place for lawyers to “walk in, to talk and confer their learning”. Indepen~ dcntly of the sacred purpose to which it is dedicated, it possesses features of peculiar interest to the architect and antiquary; erected at a period when architecture of a mixed character prevailed 1n most of our ecclesiastical structures, it has been the subject of much cutl- cism, and has called forth various opinions, both as regards its merits and antiquity. — 144 LONDON. Notwithstanding some eminent architects have claimed for it a high antiquity, it is proved from the records of the Inn, to have been erected in 1613, and is generally considered to be the work of Inigo Jones. Horace \Valpole says “he was by no means successful when he attempted Gothic. The Chapel of Lincoln’s Inn has none of the characters of that architecture. The Cloisters seem oppressed by the weight of the building above.” The appearance of the chapel, on entering, is remarkably im- pressive—an effect produced by the chastened light transmitted by the stained glass in the very fine windows, of which there are three on either side, the beautiful colours of which far surpass the gene- rality of works in this style of art. The windows on the north and south sides, each containing four lights, are filled with a series of figures of prophets and apostles, in brilliant stained glass, executed by Bernard and Abraham Van Linge, Flemish artists, whose works are amongst the most celebrated of their period. The colours are generally well preserved, and increased in brilliancy by the strong contrast of bright lights and Opaque shadows, characteristic of the work of the Van Linges. The large east window is filled with a series of armorial bearings. GRAY’S INN An Inn of Court, adjacent to Holborn, received its name from the family of Gray, of \Vilton, who acquired a residence here, and de- mised it, during the reign of Edward 111., to certain students-at—law. The domain of this society extends over a large space of ground, be- tween Holborn and Theobald’s Road; it has a spacious square, but the approaches on all sides are exceedingly mean; and the buildings, with the exception of two modern piles, called Verulam and Raymond Buildings, are of a very ordinary description. The hall was built in 1560; the interior retains its pristine features, and is a very inter- esting specimen of the architecture of the time; the roof is of oak, supported by noble arched beams, handsomely carved, and in good preservation. At the west. end is a curiously carved oak screen, and music gallery. one of the earliest specimens of the Italian style in this country. On the walls are placed portraits of Charles 1. and II., James IL, Lord Bacon, Lord Raymond, and portraits of some of the 'udges. The chief ornament of this Inn is the spacious garden ehind it, first planted in 1600, and which, according to tradition, the great Lord Bacon frequented: “the gardens of Gray’s Inn,” says Charles Lamb, “are still the best gardens of any of our Innsof Court, my beloved Temple not excepted—have the gravest character, their aspect being altogether reverend and law-breathing. Bacon has left the impress of his foot upon their gravel walks.” These Inns are governed by the respective benchers, who permit none but professional persons to reside in them, a rule to which the minor Inns are not so strictly subJ ected. LEGISLATIVE AND LEGAL. ESTABLISHMENTS. 145 THE INNS OF CHANCERY. I‘LYON’S INN, Newcastle Street, Strand—Formerly a common inn, having the sign of a lion. It is an appendage to the Inner Temple. SYMOND’S INN, Chancery Lane.——A series of private tenements let to students of the law and others. This was formerly the station of the Masters in Chancery. until they were removed to their present more commodious offices in Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane. NEW INN, VVych Street—Adjoining Clement’s Inn, and an ap- pendage to the” Middle Temple. BARNARD’S INN, Holborn, south side—Belongs to Gray’s Inn. In the hall, which is somewhat small, are two busts, and portraits of several eminent legal functionaries. “CLIFFORD’S INN, Fleet Street, behind St. Dunstan’s Church.— Formerly the mansion of Lord de Clifford. In the hall is an oak case of great antiquity, in which are preserved the ancient institu- tiOns of the Society. It was in the hall of this Inn that the judges sat, after the great fire of 1666, to determine causes between claimants, arising out of that calamity. CLEMENT’S INN, Strand—Contiguous to the Church of St. Clement Danes, from which it derives its name. The antiquity of the Inn is not at present known, but it is mentioned in a book of entries, dated in the nineteenth year of Edward IV. Shakspeare, if his chronology may be relied upon, makes it of much older date, for Justice Shallow, in the second part of Henry IV., speaks two or three times of his freaks and his acting in the shows when he was a member of this Inn, and boasts, “I was once of Clement’s Inn, where I think they still talk of Mad Shallow yet.” In the hall, built 1715, is a portrait of Sir Matthew Hale, and five other pictures. In the garden, which is small, there is a sun-dial, supported by the figure of a negro, brOught from Italy by Holles, Lord Clare. It is said to be of bronze, “ but some ingenious persons,” says Ireland, “having determined on making it a blackamoor, have in consequence painted the figure of that colour.” This and the last—mentioned Inn are also dependent on the Inner Temple. ’ FURNIVAL’S INN, Holborn, north side—In the reign of Richard II. this was the town mansion of Sir William 1e Furnival. In 1819, Mr. Pete, who holds it on a long lease, rebuilt the whole Inn, in a sub- stantial style, with convenient suites of chambers. STAPLE’S INN, Holborn, south side—Is an appendage to Gray’s Inn. It formerly belonged to the merchants of the Staple. In the hall are portraits of Charles II., Queen Anne, 'Lord Macclesfield, Lord Chancellor Cowper, and Lord Camden; and casts of the twelve Czesars, on brackets. The new buildings erected in 1843, are in. good taste. THAVIE'S INN, H olborn, south side—Formerly appertained to Lincoln’s Inn, but sold by that seeiety, in 1771, to a Mr. Middleton. CHAPTER VII. THE GOVERNMENT OFFICES. Architecture has its political uses; public buildings being the ornaments of a country. It. establishes <1 nation, draws people and commerce, and makes the people love their native country. which passion is the origin of all great actions in a commonwealth. illodcrnv Rome subsists still, by the ruins and imitation of the old ; as does Jerusalem by the Temple of the Sepulchre, and other remains of Helena’s zeal—Sir Christopher Il'ntn. ~ i" mu. \ N~;.‘- THE NELSON COLUMN, Malgar Square, Charing Cross. A monumental pile, Designed for “Nelson of the Nile! Of Trafalgar and Vincent’s heights,— For Nelson of the hundred fights.”—0rohtr. This noble column was erected from the designs of Mr. \Villiam Railton, who chose the Corinthian order, as being the most lofty and elegant in its proportions, and as never having been used before in England for the purpose. The shaft. is placed upon a pedestal, having on its four} sides bronze bassi-relievi of Nelson’s four prin- cipal engagements, viz. : St. Vincent, Copenhagen, Nile, and Trafalgar; each seven feet high. On the north side, the subject designed by Mr. “’oodington, is the Battle of the Nile; and the time when the gallant Nelson having been struck by a langridge shot, over his only remaining eye, was carried to the cockpit, covered with blood, and supposed to be mortally wounded. On the south side, the subject designed by Mr. C. E. Carew, is the Death of Nelson; and the point of time selected by the sculptor, is that when Lord Nelson was being carried from the quarter-deck to the cockpit, after he had received his mortal wound. Captain Hardy, who had been in conversation with him only a few moments before, on turning round, saw him lifted from the deck, by a marine and two seamen. “ \Vell, Hardy,” said Nelson to his captain, “ they have done for me at last.” “I hope not,” wasfthe reply. “Yes they have shot me through the back bone.” Immediately afterwards, on observing that the tiller ropes were shot away, he said, “Let new ones he rove.” This was the last order that the hero gave on the deck of the Victory. By his skilful narration of the event, the sculptor has invested the subject with a new interest. The figures are of life-size, and the minutest details are admirable preserved. The two subjects on the east and west sides, one by Mr. Watson represents Nelson animating and directing the boarding of the St. Vincent; and the other by Mr. Ternouth, represents Nelson landing at Copenhagen after the Battle. The pedestal is raised on a lofty base, at the angles of Which are to be placed African lions, in a recumbent position. The shaft is uni- formly fluted throughout; the lower and upper torus being orna- mented with leaves. The capital is taken from the bold and simple example of Mars Ultor, or the Avenger, at Rome. From thence rises a circular pedestal, ornamented with a wreath of laurel, and sur- mounted by a colossal statue of N elson, admirably sculptured by E. H. Bailey, R.A., and said to be “the beau ideal of a Greenwich Pensioner.” The cost of the monument at the present time amounts to £28,000, including the statue at the summit and the four subjects in bronze for the pedestal. PUBLIC STATUES. What public statues there are in the metropolis, seem less numerous than they really are, owing to their being for the greater part, more or less secluded from the public view—put up in the centre of the gardens in squares, or else so im- mediately next to the outer palisading, and just under the trees, that they must first be looked for before they can be looked at. HENRY VIII.—-Full-length, over the entrance to St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, Smithfield. EDWARD VI.——St. Thomas’s Hospital. A bronze statue by Schecmakers. EDWARD VI.—Christ’s Hospital, in front of the Writing School. QUEEN ELIZABr.TH.—Full-length, St. Dunstan’s-in-the-West, Flee‘ Street. This statue was formerly placed on the western side or Lud Gate, and is referred to by Defoe, in describing that structure, as “a fine figure of the famous Queen Elizabeth.” On the demolition of that Gate, in 1760, the statue was placed against the east end of the church of St. Dunstan’s-in-the-West, Fleet Street. On this edifice being taken down, in the year 1832, it was sold for £16 108.; but in 18:59, it was placed in its present situation, being mounted in a niche, flanked with two pilasters, above the entrance to the parochial schools on the east side of the new church, facing Fleet Street. Those with the other architectural accessories are in the style of the reign of James L, and forms a pleasing composition. 2 0 200 LONDON. ‘v £53 :=_——_—;:—::—_ .“——-—‘—_'-’_ -— -;_ —"——___='_—‘__ 5:531, ..____._ ’_ _ élfm‘ 34:1; :7? : SET—”LE W. GIHIMI. it] : ‘ “5‘ x y . 1 r 1 ‘11" 1 :' . "it, ‘ " ‘1 "1 ‘ 11!. 11"':”111 .11 1 .' 2. 11'11'111111‘ 11 11 111 A ‘ ,1 “' 1113;.- l1 11 '111: 1.111 \ ' ‘1 i“ 11 1,111 *111 1‘ 1.1.11. . ‘ 11... 11.1.1, 11. 1 - . u 1” “ 1' ‘1'“ 1 i ' 1 '1" :1 "~11; ‘1‘ H11. ‘. ' - "'1-.."1, 2‘ _' 11- 111.1 ,1 .. ‘ [1i p «1‘ ‘ [1 11' 1 11 :1“. . h . ‘T i ii "4. —- |l| .‘ .. ::.‘ i ___-_—_ _- ' M” ,3” "1 111.1111 1111' l; "" , / Q T \ - ' // i ' '71- -—,:=_ /é '1 iiimmli 1;: fa: 2" ‘~ T23: {filth—r - - .5; <‘\‘\ - ._;‘.." ' , “El 7 -'* r329 ,, \s': . ‘ ‘ ) riaseatéi‘fie‘ STATUE 0F CHARLES 1. CHARLES I.—Charing Cross. A fine bronze equestrian statue, originally the property of the Lord Treasurer \Veston, afterwards Earl of Portland, for whom it was cast by Le Sucur, in 1633, but was not placed in its present situation till the decline of the reign of Charles IL, in 1674. Charles is admirably represented, the size of life, in armour, his head uncovered, and looking towards Whitehall. The figure of the horse is extremely spirited, but has been thought by many, too large and unwieldy. The pedestal is the work of Grinling Gibbons. The statue had been condemned by Parliament to be sold and broken in pieces; “ but John Rivett, the brazier, who purchased it,” says Pennant, “having more taste or more loyalty, than his masters, buried it unmutilated, and showed to them some broken pieces of brass, in token of his obedience.” M. D’Archenhotz gives a diverting anecdote of this brazier, and says, “that he cast a vast number of handles for knives and forks, which he sold as made of the molten statue. They were bought with eagerness by the royalists, from affection to their monarch; and by the rebels as a mark of tri« «mph over their murdered sovereign.” the pedestal has been much admired for the beauty of its proportions, as «ed as for the elegance and boldness of its carvings—Allan Cunningham. THE MONUMENT AND THE PUBLIC STATUES. 201 CHARLES IL—Soho' Square. A pedestrian marble statue : at the feet are four emblematic figures, representing the rivers Thames, Severn, Trent, and Humber. ' CHARLES II.—In front of the Mathematical School, Christ’s Hospital. CHARLES II.—A bronze statue in the costume of a Roman emperor, in the centre of the large court of the Royal Hospital at Chelsea. It is the work of Grinlz'ng Gibbons, and was the gift of Tobias Rustat, Under Keeper of Hampton Court Palace, and Yeoman of the Robes to that monarch. JAMES IL—Whitehall Gardens. A bronze statue, in the dress of a Roman emperor, with a ehaplet on his head, by Grabbing Gibbons. His right hand, in which there was formerly a truncheon, is gracefully extended. On the pedestal appears the date of 1686. Presented to James II. by Tobias Rustat, Under Keeper of Hampton Court, the year before the abdication of that monarch. The work of Grinling Gibbons, and in every way worthy of his reputation. The attitude of the figure is easy, yet dignified; and a calm, but serious, and very thoughtful expression, is stamped upon the well-formed features and brow. James is habited in the costume of a Roman emperor—a somewhat incongruous association of ideas; indeed, the only circumstance connected with this beautiful work, that at all interferes with our admiration of it, is its association with a sovereign so little deserving of the permanent interest that art can confer upon all those with whom it has any connection—J. Saunders. It has great ease of attitude, and a certain severity of air. and is not au- WOrthy of the hand which moulded it.”--Allan Glowing/(am. WILLIAM III.—St. J ames’s Square. A full-length statue. WILLIAM III.—Drawing Office, Bank of England. in whose reign it was first established. QUEEN ANNE—West front of St. Paul’s ' Cathedral, by F. Bird. A full-length statue of white marble. At the base are figures of Britain, France, Ireland, and America. GEORGE I.—Leicester Square. An equestrian statue, gilt; pur- chased at the sale of the Duke of Cliandos’ mansion, in 1747, it having been placed in his park, at Canons. GEORGE I.—Grosvenor Square, An equestrian statue, gilt: by Van Nest. Erected in 1726, by Sir R. Grosvenor. GEORGE IL—In front of Greenwich Hospital. A marble statue, in the costume of a Roman emperor, by Rysbracb. Sculptured out of a single block of white marble, which weighed eleven tons, captured from the French by Sir George Rooke, and presented to the Hospital by Sir John Jennings, governor during the reign of that monarch. GEORGE III.—-Cockspur Street. A bronze equestrian statue, by 11'. 0. Wyatt. Erected in 1836. A work of ability, and creditable to the artist. The figure of the horse is by far the best part; beautifully proportioned and full of animation. Its evident intention is to represent a high-bred horse, in a state of elegant and impatient subordination; and a calm regal superiority on the part of the rider, whom we are to suppose saluting his beloved subjects, or returning, perhaps, the salutation of a regiment. It is not pleasant to find fault with anything that argues cleverness, and industry, and a purpose ; but the work is overdone, and it is not characteristic. George III., whatever may have been his craft in some respects. or his self—possession in others, was a man both of plain habits and vehement 202 LONDON. impulses. He does not present himself to the imagination as a rider in a state of composure on a dandyfied palfrey. He and his horse should alike have been sturdy and unaffected: and, of the two, the expression of restlessness should have been on the human side—Leigh Hunt. GEORGE III.—In the court of Somerset House. Afull-length statue, at his feet is a figure of the river Thames, holding a cornucopia, from which flows wealth and plenty, by Bacon. GEORGE- IV.—South-east corner of Trafalgar Square. A bronze equestrian statue, by Sir F. Chantrey. Cost 9,000 guineas. 4 . .i‘ g gupztf'vl‘ /|llllll up" . I' l ‘ lint! 't>:i"lh; “Ilium. I_ l I ~ N - lflllfh. sang; ,' [hum]; .. l um. i _ I A r “l a ll , i :8 I‘ l'l|' a. ' . STATUE OF WILLIAM IV. WILLIAM IV.—King William Street, London Bridge. A full-length granite statue, by S. Nixon. Erected in 1844. The likeness is ad- mirably caught and preserved; and the costume is that which the king most affected, the umform of an English Admiral, with the addi« tion of a cloak, the well-arranged folds Of which give a fulness and dignity to the Whole. The pedestal, designed by Mr. Kelsey, is simple in its design, without being meagre and unsatisfactory. It bears a general resemblance, not pushed so closely, however, as to become eccentric, to the capstan of a ship; and it rests on a plinth, represent- ing a coil of rope. THE MONUMENT AND THE PUBLIC STATUES. 203 QUEEN VICTORIA.—-In the quadrangle of the Royal Exchange. A marble statue, by Lough. Erected in 1845. Hrs ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE Amman—In the vestibule at Lloyd’s. A full-length marble statue, by Lough. Erected in 1847. WILLIAM, DUKE 0F CUMBERLAND, the “Butcher” of Culloden.— Cavendish Square. An equestrian statue, gilt, in the full military costume of his time, by-U/zew. Erected in 1777, by Lieutenant-General Strode, “in gratitude for private kindness, and in honour of his public virtue.” EDWARD, DUKE OF KENT.-—Park Crescent, Portland Place. A pe- destrian bronze statue, on a granite pedestal, by Galzagm. The figure is heroic, that is, between the natural and colossal size; in a field- marshal’s uniform, over which are ducal robes, and a collar of the Order of the Garter. Erected by public subscription. The attitude is graceful, and the likeness is well-preserved..—-Britton. This statue is in a manly, energetic style; but coarse in execution, and vulgar in conception.——Ehnes. FRANCIS, DUKE 0F BEDFORD.—Russell Square. A colossal pedes- trian bronze statue of the Duke, in his parliamentary robes ; one arm resting on a plough, the other grasping the gifts of Ceres; by Sir R. Westmacott, RA. Erected in 1809. ' The pedestal is ornamented with rural objects; and at his feet are figures of children, emblematic of the four seasons. . DUKE 0F WELLINGTON—“rest front of the Royal Exchange. A bronze equestrian statue, by Sir I! 0/mntrey. Erected June 18th, 1844. DUKE 0F WELLINGTON,_Hyde Park Corner. A colossal bronze equestrian statue, by M. 0. Wyatt. Erected in 1846. The arch upon which this colossal work is placed, and which has been the cause of so much contention between the critics and the committee, was erected from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton; and is of elegant proportions, florid decoration, and exquisitely finished workmanship; and had it been completed according to the original design of the architect, would have been one of the finest modern triumphal arches in existence. DUKE or WELLINGTON.—In front of the White Tower. A full- length marble figure, eight feet high, upon a granite pedestal, ten feet in height, by Mr. MTlner. His Grace is represented uncovered, attired in a plain military coat, with a cloak, loosely suspended from his shoulders, with cord and tassel. LORD ELDON.—Sehool, Wandsworth Road. A full-length figure. SIR RICHARD WHITTINGTON.—Whittington’s Almshouses, Highgate. SIR ROBERT CLAYTON—St. Thomas’s Hospital. SIR HANS SLOANE.—ln the Gardens of the Apothecaries’ Company Chelsea. A full-length statue, by Rysbmclz. ~ Active to save rather than destroy, far beyond even the usual limits of his benevolent profession—that of a ph sieian, more ambitions of the power of doing good, than of achieving wealth and rank, which, nevertheless, he did achieve, in order that they too might be useful to the same end, Sir Hans Sloane’s long and well-spent life entitle him to national respect and honour.—Sawzders. SIB. ROBERT PEEL, EARL—West end of Cheapside. A fine full- length bronze statue, by Behnes. ‘ LONDON- MAJOR CARTWRIGHT.—-Burton Crescent. A seated bronze statue, on a granite pedestal, in the centre of which is the bronze inscription. The figure, which is larger than life, represents the Major in a sitting posture. In the countenance is sculptured that benevolence for which he was pre-eminent; by Clarice. Erected by public subscription, in 1832. The old heart in London, from which the veins of sedition in the country were supplied—Canning. WILLIAM PITT.—South side of Hanover Square. A colossal bronze statue, on a granite pedestal, by Sir F. Chantrey. One of the finest statues in London: the figure is upright, in the act of speaking; the drapery falls on a granite pedestal, which is small in proportion to the figure, but this difference in appearance, gives additional size to the figure. Erected by his admirers, in 1831. “In person, Pitt was tall, slender, well-proportioned, and active. He had blue eyes, rather a fair complexion, prominent features, and a high, capacious forehead. His aspect was severe and forbidding; his voice clear and powerful; his action dignified, but neither graceful nor engaging ; his tone and manners, although urbane and complacent in society, were lofty, and even arrogant in the senate. On entering the House, it was his custom to stalk sternl to his place, without honouring even his most favoured adherents with a word, a nod, or even a glance of recognition.” The resemblance is considered striking, and the efl'ect of the statue is bold and dignified.”—Mz'rror, vol. xx. CHARLES JAMES FOIL—Bloomsbury Square. A colossal statue, seated, habited in a Roman consular toga, and holding Magna Charts, by Sir R. Westmacott, RA. It is placed on a massive pedestal of granite, inscribed “Charles James Fox, erected 1816.” The statue is admirably executed, and the artist has preserved a character- istic and correct delineation of the form and features of the great patriot.— Britten. GEORGE CANNING.—Old Palace Yard, Westminster. A colossal bronze statue, on a granite pedestal, by Sir R. Westmacott, RA. Erected in 1832. Canning! Who, bred a statesman, still was born a wit; And never, even in that dull House, couldst tame To unleavened prose thine own poetic flame; Our last, our best, our only Drawn—Byron. The figure is to be admired for its simplicity, though altogether it has more stateliness than natural ease. The likeness is strikingly accurate, and bears all the intellectual grandeur of the crater. He was buried in the north transept of Westminster Abbey, where a monument by Sir F. Chantrey, is erected to his memory. W'ILLIAM HUSKISSON.—In the vestibule of Lloyd’s. A full-length colossal marble statue, by Gibson, Presented by Mrs. Huskisson, 1848. THOMAS GUY, the Founder.—In the centre of the front area of Guy’s Hospital. A bronze statue, by Schemakers. ROBERT ASKE.—In front of the Haberdashers’ Almhouses, Hoxton. A full-length statue, erected in honour of Robert Aske, Esq., citizen and haberdasher of London, founder of this hospital. ' J.) '" mu MM ll\\'ll\ ‘u‘ r u' I . .4-1.-..‘.l‘-- . ‘. -.44Il-a- .L‘ n0 L.,, s: -' — . v m .,. - .. muuul 57,52; 2' "L ’ it t: .-. *t . WI 'i‘lllit. _.. ll, ., sll‘lllllll' M ___r,_‘l’l'li_l - THE STATUE OF ACHILLES. ACHILLEs.—Hyde Park. A colossal bronze figure, twenty feet high, and weighing thirty tons, by Sir R. Westmacott, RA. Erected by a public subscription of ladies, in honour of the great and import- ant victories of the Duke of Wellington, as appears from the inscription on the massive granite pedestal which supports this brazen colosSus. “ To ARTHUR, DUKE 0F \VELLINGTON, and his brave Companions in arms, this statue of Achilles, cast from cannon taken in the victories of Salamanca, Vittoria, Talavera, and Waterloo, is inscribed, by their countrywomen. Placed on this spot on the 18th day of Jane, 1822, by command of his Majesty George I V.” c It is a restoration in bronze of one of the celebrated groups in the Monte de Cavallo, at Rome, and is one of the finest specimens of sculptured brass- founding in Europa—Elmer. THE OBELISK.-—Farringdon Street. Erected in 1773, as a memorial to the notorious politician, John Wilkes, who was alderman of the ward of Farringdon Without. THE OBELISK.—Bridge Street, Blackfriars. Erected in 1833, in memory of Alderman Waithman, whose shawl shop was at the corner of Fleet Street, the house now occupied by the proprietors of the “ Sunday Times.” THE OBELISK.—Blackfriars’ Road. Erected in 1771, in honour of Brass Crosby, Esq., who, while lord mayor of London, was confined in the Tower for releasing a printer, seized contrary to law, lg the House of Commons, and for committing the messenger of the case to prison. 2.06 Lonnon. CHAPTER XII. THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. Such is the real, the intrinsic importance of stage representations to the due cultivation of a people—and of dramatic productions to the right discipline of the human being—that there is no form of poetry—of art—nor any art, not excepting the art of government, that involves greater significance, or more serious consequences, than the dramatic—The Sunbeam. Considering the vast extent and wealth of the British capital, it might be expected that it should possess an ample fund of amusement for its enormous population. This, in truth, it does—the theatre, of course, holding the first rank. The English stage is conspicuous as having produced some of the most able writers, and the best actors, ever seen in the world. HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE Haymarket. Originally established for the performance of Italian operas, to which ballets and divertisments are now always added, and is now one of the most fashionable places of amusement in the me- tropolis, its only rival being the Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden, THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. 207 which has recently been established to gratify the increasing taste of the public for exquisite music and dancing. At these two houses, the most celebrated artistes are engaged, and in consequence of their rivalry, at an enormous expence, far exceeding that of any other theatres in the world. The present edifice was erected chiefly by M. Novosielski, on the site of the former theatre, built by Sir John Vanbrugh, and destroyed by fire, June 1789; the first stone having been laid April 3rd. 1790, but the exterior was not finished until 1820, when it assumed its present appearance under the direction of Mr. Nash, and Mr. G. Repton. Three sides of the building are encompassed by a colonnade supported by cast-iron pillars of the Roman-Doric order; and on the west side is a covered arcade. The front towards the Haymarket is decorated with a group of emblematic figures in basso-relivo, illus- trative of the origin and progress of music and dancing, executed in artificial stone, by Mr. J. G. Bubb. ~ i l. w =L)_'_!‘:"l?ll~"|'.ih‘=s Lr-ZZJ'.° " l Lia/six?! ug- X‘— =a L?_ INTERIOR OF HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE. The dimensions of the interior, which has not undergone any ma- terial alteration since its erection, are nearly the same as those of La Scala, at Milan. The width of the stage is nearly eighty feet; its depth sixty-two feet; and from the centre boxes in the grand tier, to the orchestra, the depth is about the same. The five tiers, containing two hundred and ten boxes, will hold one thousand persons, the pit nearly eight hundred, and the gallery the same. The first three tiers of private boxes are the property of the nobility, or of wealthy commoners, and are let at from one hundred and fifty to four hundred guineas the season, according to the situation and size. Many of the double boxes on the grand tier have been sold for as much as £8,000. The interior, which is scarcely surpassed in size, is unrivalled for the beauty of its form and decorations. The coup d’oeil, on first entering, 208 LONDON. is dazzling, but it rivets, not repels the sight, as the eye becomes familiar with the brilliancy that bursts upon it, a sense of pleasurable satisfaction is experienced; which is reneWed every time the spectator turns from the stage to throw a glance round the house The style of decoration is Italian, of the time of Raphael, and Julio Romano; the Vatican, and other palaces of Italy, furnishing the designs. Each tier of boxes is differently ornamented with arabesque scrolls, interspersed with medallions of figures, on gold or coloured grounds; pictures and ornaments in imitation of relief; en- riched with burnished gold mouldings, and subdued by amber draperies. The profusion of bright yellow silk hangings, and the golden glossi— ness of their satin surface, lighted by a brilliant chandelier, shed such a flood of lustre around, that the gay tints of the paintings are toned down to a chaste and delicate harmony of quiet hues, and the Chintz linings of the boxes become almost colourless. The effect is lively as well as rich, and so far from fatiguing the sense, it is delightful to dwell upon; whilst the longer we look, the more vivacity do the pic- torial decorations appear to possess. Pale blue and brown, enlivened with red, prevail. Red predominates in the ceiling, to which the eye is gradually led by a progressive diminution in the quantity of intense hues from the lower tier, where it is freely used to the upper, where there is little positive colour, and none in masses. The contrast be- tween the upper tier and the ceiling is very striking; the vast circle is well defined, and supported by architectural forms, and its surface varied by circular pictures, and other devices. The opening over the gallery is admirably contrived to produce a novel and agreeable effect; the ceiling and walls are coloured sky-blue, and this mass of retiring coolness is very refreshing to the eye. The season commences in February, when there are two perform« ances weekly, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, but the chief celebrities do not make their appearance until after Easter, when an additional performance, not included in the subscription, is given on the Thursday evenings, on which night, nearly all the principal performers appear, either in entire operas, or detached scenes. 0n the occasion of a Drawing-Room, many of the ladies who have attended it, visit the opera in the evening, wearing their court dresses, which contribute to form a most magnificent coup (fail. This theatre has been the scene of the triumphs of a Catalini, a Pasta, a Caradori, a Sontag, a Grisi, and a Lind; as also of Signors Naldi, Ambrogetti, Rubini, Ivanoif. Tamburini, Mario, and Lablache. Lessee, Mr. Lumley. Open from February to August. Doors open at half-past seven o’clock; performances commence at. eight. Visitors to all parts of the theatre, except the gallery, are expected to appem in evening costume—frock coats, and coloured trousers and cravats, not being admissable. Admission: stalls, one guinea; pit, ten shillings and Sixpence; gallery, five shillings. Persons desirous of admission to the boxes or stalls, may obtain tickets at the shops of some of the respectable booksellers in the vicinity, to whom, subscribers when not using their own boxes, are in the habit of entrusting their tickets for disposal. In this way, tickets for the boxes may usually be had for a guinea, to the stalls THE THEATRES AND MUSIC 209 for fourteen shillings and Sixpence, and to the pit for eight shillings land Sixpence. 0n particularly attractive nights these charges are usually increased. Books of the operas, as performed nightly, with an English translation, may be had of the publishers of this work. Attached to the theatre, is an elegant concert room, ninety-five feet long, forty-six feet broad, and thirty-five feet high, handsomely fitted up with orchestra, and boxes, in which, during the season, benefit concerts, on a large scale are given. THE ROYAL ITALIAN OPERA, Bow Street, Covent Garden. This theatre having been destroyed by fire in September, 1808, was rebuilt from the designs of Robert Smirke, Esq., R.A., and opened in the September of the following year, it having been completed in little more than ten months. It is of the Grecian-Doric order, and has a portico of four columns, sup- porting a pediment, copied from the Temple of Minerva on the Acropolis at Athens; the columns are large, fluted, Without bases, and elevated upon a flight of steps. In niches, near the lateral extremities of the front, are statues of Tragedy and Comedy, by Flaxman; and on each side of the portico, are compartments containing representa- tions of the ancient and modern drama in basso-relivo. The interior was entirely re-constructed in 1847, from the designs, and under the superintendence of Mr. Albano, for Signor Persiani and Mr. Beale, since which period it has been devoted to the pro- duction of the Italtian lyric drama. The decorations for richness, good taste, and simplicity, are unrivalled. The prevailing colours of the house are White and blue; and the gilt mouldings are, without exception, the most magnificent that have ever been applied to the purposes of theatrical decoration. The curves of the tiers of boxes is as perfectas possible for the combined necessities of sight and hearing, and the painted ceiling, and the chandelier, are remarkably splended. The undertaking not meeting with the success he had contemplated Signor Persiani, who, with Mesdames Persiani and Grisi, and Signor Mario, had seceded from Her Majesty’s Theatre, soon retired from the management, leaving Mr. Beale in sole possession. That gentleman shortly afterwards induced Mr. Delafield to join him in the speculation, and ultimately to take the entire management in his own hands, an event, which in a few months teimiuated in his bankruptcy, after having lost a princely fortune, amounting to £100,000. The present lessee is Mr. F. Gye, during whose directorship, several operas have been produced on an unexampled scale of magnificence, and at an outlay hitherto unprecedented in operatic annals . In 1886, this theatre was again totally destroyed by fire, on the morning of March 5th., after a Bal Masque for the benefit of Professor Anderson. DRURY LANE THEATRE, Brydges Street. The original theatre on this site having 1 een burnt down in 1809, it was rebuilt in 1811, from designs by Mr. B. \Vyatt. Its external appearance is somewhat heavy, but very substantial. The front, towards Brydges Street, which is exceedingly mean, is ornamented with pilasters of the Doric order, and a portico, sur- mounted with a statue of Shakspeare, erected in 1822, when the in- terior was entirely remodelled, by Mr. Petn, from the designs of S. THE THEATRES AND Music. 211 =Beazley, Esq., architect, and will contain upwards of three thousand persons. The staircase, hall, rotunda and saloon, are of great beauty; and are at once convenient and commodious. In the rotunda is a cast from Scheemakers" statue of Shakspeare; the plinth being in- scribed With Ben Jonson’s characteristic line,— “ He was uot for an ace. but for all time,” as also a statue of Edmund hean. The interior is very beautifully decorated; and the ceiling painted to represent the firmament, as seen through, or from a gilt balcony. The stage is of great extent, being ninety-six feet long, and seventy- seven feet in width. In the principal green-room are busts of Shak- speare, Garrick, Mrs. Siddons, and Edmund Kean. _ Lessee, Mr. E. T. Smith, under Whose spirited and liberal manage- ment, it has at length become as of old, the leading theatre in London, Doors open at half past six o’clock; performances commence at seven. Admission: boxes, four shillings; pit, two shillings; gallery, one shilling; upper gallery, Sixpence. Seoond price at]. nine o’clock. The entrancc to Her Majesty’s box, is from Russell Street. 'lhe stage entrance is in Russell Street, near Drury Lane. THE HAYMARKET THEATRE. This handsome edifice was erected on the site of the little theatre 1n the H avmarket, built by the celebrated Foote, in.17 67, from the des1gns of John Nash, Esq., and first opened for dramatic performances on the 4th of July, 1821. The front presents an elevated port1co, supported by six columns of the Corinthian order; and above the pediment are nine circular Windows, tastefully connected by sculptured ornaments; beneath the portico are five Windows, which serve to Light the saloon. 212 ‘ Lon nos. INTERIOR OF THE HAYMARKET THEATRE. The interior is beautifiilly decorated, and is remarkable for having the sides rectangular, and the centre very slightly curved, thus dif- fering from any of the other theatres. A new and elegant box has been constructed for Her Majesty’s use, the entrance to which is from Suffolk Street; the ante-room is decorated with paintings, by Mr. Sang, under the direction of Mr. C. Manby, consisting of views of lVindsor Castle; Osborne House and \Vaterfalls; Balmoral ; the Duchess of Kent’s residence, near Balnioral; the church at Balmoral, and also the kennel there; and the residence of Prince Albert. when in Germany. The situation and form of the Royal box, are such that Her Majesty may remain perfectly incognito, seeing the whole of the stage, her Majesty’s face being on a level with those of the performers. Henderson, Bannister, Elliston, and Liston, made their first appear- anee at the “Little Theatre:” here, Mr. Fool’s “Paul Pry,” was originally produced, and here too, during the season, 1850-51, Mr. Macready, the greatest tragedian of our time, took his final leave of the stage in a round of his most popular characters. By his retire- ment, the drama experiences a loss, greater than any it has sustained since the time of the celebrated John Philip Kemble. The present lessee is Mr. J. B. Buckstone, under whose active man- Bgement, it continues to be one of the most attractive thentres in the metropolis. The company is an efficient one. Doors open at half- past six o’clock; performances commence at seven. Admission: boxes, five shillings; orchestra stalls, five shillings ; pit, three shillings; gallery two shillings; lower gallery, one shilling. Second price at nine o’clock: boxes, three shillings; pit, two shillings; lower gallery, one shilling; upper gallery, Sixpence. THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. 213 3%, \ ~.:,‘.I'Iin:-r-.. .-... i‘l ill‘ THE ROYAL LYCEUM THEATRE. Wellington Street North, Strand. Erected on the site of the old theatre, which was destroyed by fire on the 16th of February, 1829, from the design of Mr. S. Beazley, and first opened July 16th, 1834. It has a handsome Corinthian portico, of six columns, the Whole sur— mounted by a dome and balustrade : the interior, which is light and elegant, was re-decorated in a chaste, yet very beautiful manner, in 1656, when it was opened under the management of Mr. F. Gye, on the destruction of Covent Garden Theatre, as the Royal ltalian Opera. A new and elegant chandelier hangs from the Centre of the roof, and lights up the theatre without any other gas appliance. The number of private boxes has been augmented to sixty-eight. In addition to the grand tier and a tier above, eight small boxes are contrived on a level with the gallery, besides a row on each side of the pit. The gallery is divided as it was at Covent Garden, into what may be called “amphitheatre stalls” and gallery proper, sepa— rated by a wooden partition. The pit is nearly all distributed into stalls. Of these exclusive conveniences there are no less than two hundred and ten. The boxes are hung with dark red curtains, and papcred with the same colour. The chairs in the pit-stalls are fur- nished with red seats and white backs. What is called the pit lb limited to two or three rows at the back—these and the gallery being the only unreserved seats in the house. ‘ Open during the Season, ( which terminates about the middle of August), on Tuesdays, 'l‘hurrdays, and Saturdays. Doors open at hall-past seven o’clock; performances commence at. eight o’clock. Admission same as at bier Majesty’s Theatre. P 214 ' LONDON. A 39*“ ”:5; 1'u nnum , ADELPHI THEATRE, Strand. Built by the late Mr. Scott, whose daughter laid the first stone in 1802, and by him called the Sanspareil; it was first opened for the public, November 17th, 1806. It was afterwards purchased by Mr. Rodwell, when that gentleman named it the Adelphi, a name it still bears. During the management of Mr. Rodwell, was produced the burletta of “Tom and Jerry,” with such fortunate success as to enjoy a run of upwards of three hundred nights, and realizing to the manager, a profit of £25,000. Here it was, that between 1828 and 1831, Charles Mathews gave his inimitable “ At Homes ; ” and here, John Reeve, for many seasons, Atlas-like, sustained, by his racy hu- mour, the prosperity of this theatre. In 1841, a new and handsome front was added, of a highly decorated character. The present proprietor is Mr. Benjamin Webster, for many years lessee of the Haymarket, who has placed the theatre to a great extent under the management of Madame Celeste, and under whose auspices it continues to enjoy a greater share of popularity than any other London theatre. The amusements consist of comedies, dramas, melo- dramas, burlettas, spectacles, ballets, extravaganzas, and farces: the Whole being well supported by an efficient company: broad farce is THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. 215 also very popular here, owing to the ‘rich drolleries of Paul Bedford, the buffoonery of Wright, and the characteristic performances of Mr. Selby. One of the most successful pieces of recent date, has been Buckstone’s “ Green Bushes,” played nearly four hundred nights. Indeed, such has been the success of this drama, that an amusing story is told of a sailor, who, when in London, some four years since, visited this theatre, and saw the “ Green Bushes; ” he then made a voyage up the Mediterranean, and on his return, visited the Adelphi, and again saw the “ Green Bushes; ” he then sailed for China, and on his return home, paid another visit and still it was the “ Green Bushes: not that the piece had been played the whole of that time, but its success was such, that with slight intervals, it had been played for four years. Doors open at half-past six o’clock; performances commence at seven. Admission: stalls, five shillings; boxes, four shillings; pit, two shillings; gallery, one shilling. Second price at nine o’clock: boxes, two shillings; pit, one shilling; gallery, Sixpence.” At the back of the theatre, in Maiden Lane, is a noted place of late-hour entertainment, called the “ Cider Cellars,” originally opened as a concert room, underground in 1730. ST. JAMES’S THEATRE, King Street, St. James’s. Erected in 1836, from the designs of Mr. S. Beazely. This theatre was built for Mr. Braham, the highly popu- lar singer, who became its manager, and principal support, but with so little success, as to lose a large fortune—the accumulation of a life— in a very short period. The middle division of the front is composed of two orders, Ionic and Corinthian; the lower order forming a pro- jecting tetrastyle portico, placed before a distyle in artis, supporting the second order, which is similarly disposed, and which forms an open recessed loggia, crowned by a kind of attic, with niches in three intercolumns. The interior has two tiers of boxes, besides gallery and slips: it is well contrived both for seeing and hearing, and .is decorated in the Louis-Quartorze style, by Messrs. Crace. Open for the performance of French plays, under the management of M. Frederic Lemaitre, from January to July. Admission: stalls, ten shillings and Sixpence; boxes, seven shillings; pit, three shillings; amphitheatre, two shillings. ROYAL PRINCESS’S THEATRE, Oxford Street. A small, yet elegant theatre, with no opportunity of external display ; erected on the site of the Queen’s Bazaar. The in- terior is the most gorgeous of any of the metropolitan theatres, and is richly decorated in the arabesque style; the proscenium, and proscenium boxes, being very massive and rich in appearance. r2 216 . LONDON. The present lessee is Mr. Charles Kean, who has engaged a numerous and talented company, for the performance of tragedy, comedy, and farce. It is the aim of the able lessee, to produce in addition to the Shakspearian revivals, new pieces of high preten- sions, before the ordeal of a London audience; an intention, which if worthily carried out, must ensure for this theatre a high position in public estimation, and confer an enduring honour on the the talented and enterprising lessees. Doors open at half-past six o’clock; performances commence at seven. Admission : orchestra stalls, which which may be returned the entire evening, six shillings; dress circle, five shillings; boxes, four shillings; pit, two shillings; gallery, one shilling. Second price at nine o’clock: dress circle, two shillings and Sixpence ; boxes, two shillings; pit, one shilling; gallery, Sixpence. The entrance to her Majesty’s box is in Great Castle Street, as also the stage entrance. OLYMPIC THEATRE, \Vyeh Street. The former theatre on this site, which was elected by old Philip Astley, in 1805, and which obtained some celebrity in its day, from the fact. of George 111. having contributed the principal portion of the timber of a French man-of-war, La Ville de Paris, in which \Villiam IV. went out as midshipman, which was used in its con- struction, was entirely destroyed by fire, on the 29th of March, 1849. The present edifice speedily rose upon its ruins, and was opened on the 26th of December in the same year, under the lesseeship of Mr. \Vatts, but closed abruptly in a few weeks, in consequence of the criminal proceedings instituted against that gentleman for forgery. The frontage is plain and simple: on entering, the beauty and pro- portions of the interior contrast strikingly with the plainness of the exterior. The audience part of the theatre is of the horse-shoe shape—decidedly the best of all adapted for the comfort and enjoy- ment of the spectator. It is decorated in the arabesque style, and lighted by an immense glass chandelier, weighing nearly three quar- ters of a ton. The present lessee is Mr. A. “’igan, under whose excellent manage- ment, supported by the inimitable acting of that real genius Mr. F. Robson, it is a deservedly popular place of amusement. Doors open at. seven o'clock; performances commence at half-past seven. Admission: boxes, four shillings; pit, two shillings: gallery, one shilling. Second price at nine o'clock : boxes, two shillings; pit, one shilling; gallery six pence. Tm; THEATRES AND MUSIC. ‘ '217 STRAND THEATRE, 168, Strand. Built by Mr. Rayner, the comedian, on the site of Baker’s Panorama. It is a small, yet neat theatre, and is principally confined to the production of vaudevilles, and other light comic pieces. It was at one time under the management of Mrs. VVaylett, by the influence of whose talents it acquired a high reputation, and after- wards under that of the late Mr. W. J. Hammond, when it also enjoyed a large share of public support, Mrs. Nesbitt and Mrs. Stirling gracing it with their presence; here, Mr. Douglas Jerrold, for a short time, appeared on the stage, in one of his own admirable dramas; and here, too, when under the management of Mr. W. Farren, that ad- mirable actress, Mrs. Glover, fulfilled her last engagement on the stage, previous to the evening of her farewell benefit at Drury Lane, an evening which she only surfived a few days. Lessee, Mr. Allcroft. Doors open at half-past six; performances commence at seven. Admission; stalls, four shillings; boxes, three shilings; pit, one shilling; gallery, sixnence. Second price to the boxes only, at nine o’clock. ; , I _ J _____ ,an ' q. ' ' ‘ I T."llllllllllllim-I”"""' " L ' l q Ii: In.lllllllr“"=“~ —.. Ill II" _ _- __.._—.. .___..... -__.___ __.._—. . SADLER’S WELLS THEATRE, New River Head, Islington. So called from the mineral wells for- merly situated here, and from the name of a person by whom a sum- mer theatre was first opened on this spot, in 1683. The present . building was constructed in 1765, but the interior has been since re- lbuilt. This theatre was formerly celebrated for the production of 218 LONDON. nautical pieces, its proximity to the New River enabling the manage- ment to introduce real water into the most striking scenes; and here it was, when under the management of Dibdin, that Grimaldi achieved his greatest triumphs. It has been for the last four or five seasons equally remarkable as the refuge of the Shakspearian drama, banished from the larger temples; which under the judicious management of Mr. Phelps, has proved eminently successful; he having collected around him one of the best working companies in London; a company not distinguished for particular individual eminence, but for the general intelligence which pervades the whole, and for the heartiness with which each member aids the general effect. The chief performers here are the talented lessee himself, Messrs. H. lVIarston, G. Bennett, Hoskins, H. Mellon, and A. Younge; Miss Glyn, (a pupil of Mr. C. Kemble) Mrs. H. Marston, and Miss S. Lyons. Although the charge for admission is small, the audiences are amongst the most atten- tive and intellectual in London; the admirable embodiment of the plays of Shakspeare, and those of the elder dramatists, being keenly relished, and highly appreciated. Doors open at half-past six o’clock; performances commence at seven. Admission: boxes, first circle, three shillings ; second circle, two shillings ; pit, one shilling ; gallery, Sixpence. Half-price to the boxes only, at nine o’clock, one shilling. __ -—-“.'—_—— l . ”‘fl" ......... — m E r‘ E SURREY .ThEJxTRE- \ V/ 1 \J \sf/ L , I i} 1‘ - lean l VCMLLERY PIT. 1 4‘ \ .3 _ 1 " __ , the?“ Wm _. - - w...“ ROYAL SURREY THEATRE, N ear St. George’s Circus, Blackfriars’ Road. Originally opened as a Circus, by Mr. Hughes, the riding-master, in opposition to the elder Astley; but having been destroyed by fire in 1805, it was rebuilt from the designs of Signor Cabanel, an Italian artist, of great know- ledge in theatrical buildings, under the direction and immediate THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. 219 superintendence of Mr. James Donaldson, and opened on Easter Mon— . day, 1806, by Mr. Elliston, who converted the ride into an extensive pit, and named it the “ Surrey Theatre.” And burnt the Royal Circus in a hurry, ’Twas call’d the Circus then, but now the Surrey—Rejected Addresses. It was afterwards under the management of Mr. Thomas Dibdin, who here produced many of his most favourite pieces; and more recently under that of his brother, Mr. Charles Dibdin; and the late Mr. Davidge. The exterior is neat, and not unimportant, the stuccoed front being ornamented with piers, and sunk pannels, and a portico extending the whole width of the front, beneath which are entrances to the boxes, pit, and gallery. The auditory is of an elliptical shape, one of the best proportioned in London, and well adapted for seeing and hearing. The present lessees are Messrs. Shepherd and Creswick, who are ably supported by a very good company, and are making a laudable effort to introduce a superior kind of dramatic entertainment to the audiences on the south side of London. The most prominent mem- bers of the company are Messrs. Creswick, Shepherd, T. Mead, W. Montague, Bruce Norton, and Widdicomb; Misses Cooper, Jane Coveney, and Laporte. During the summer season, a very good English operatic company make an annual campaign here. Doors open at six o’clock; performances commence at half—past six. Ad- mission: boxes, two shillings; pit, one shilling; gallery, Sixpence, Second price at nine o’clock: boxes, one shilling. - VICTORIA THEATRE, Waterloo Bridge Road, Lambeth, was commenced in 1816, the first ‘stone having been laid by Alderman Goodbehere, as proxy for the Prince and Princess of Saxe Cobourg. It is a large and commodious edifice, without any architectural display, and was built by Mr. Glos- sop, from designs of Signor Cabanel, an Italian architect of great taste, and was opened on Whit-Monday, 1818, and originally called the Co- bourg Theatre, but changed to Victoria some time after the accession of William IV., when her present Majesty was only heir presumptive to the crown. It was at this theatre, in its earlier days, that the fine taste, and eminent talents of Clarkson Stanfield, were first intro- duced to public notice. The present lessee is Mr. J. Towers, and the pieces produced are melo-dramatic pieces, of the lowest character. The gallery is the largest in London, and is well worth viewing from the slips, at the end of the first piece, if the theatre is well filled; the numbers occupying it, their state of undress, and varied occupation, forming a very striking picture, particularly when viewed for the first time. Lessee, Mr. J. Towers. Doors open at six o’clock; per- formances commence at haltlpast six. Admission: boxes, one shilllng; pit, Sixpence; gallery, threepence. Second price at nine o’clock ' boxes, siXpence. 20 LONDON. ASTLEY’S ROYAL AMPHITHEATRE, Westminster Bridge Road. First established by the eccentric Philip Astley, a light horseman, in the 15th, or General Elliott’s regiment, and said to have been the handsomest man in England, about 1774, as an open riding school; but in 1780, it was covered in, and formed into a regular amphitheatre; in 1786, it was richly fitted up, and called the Royal Grove, and in 1792, it was named the Royal Saloon, or Astley’s Amphitheatre. It has since been thrice destroyed by fire— in 1794, 1803, and 1841.——but has been rebuilt, and is now one of the best frequented theatres in London. The exterior, which has no architec- tural pretensions; is ornamented with aportico, surmounted by the royal arms. The auditory is of an elliptical form, neat-1y ornamented. Between the pit and the stage, is the circular ride, in which are exhibited the extraordinary performances of the most talented male and female equestrians of the day, enlivened by the drolleries of Mr. Barry, the celebrated clown to the ring. Under the manage- ment of Ducrow, unrivalled for his fearless and graceful exploits in the circle, this house became distinguished in its way above all others in Eur0pe. The stud of trained horses, all beautiful animals, exhi- biting a wonderful degree of sagacity, and obedience to the riders' will, exceeded fifty in number, and the stable now kept by Mr. Cooke, the present proprietor and manager, is said to be in no way inferior. Besides the equestrian performances, pantomimes, burlettas, rope- dancing feats of strength or agility are also exhibited. Manager, Mr. Cooke. Doors open at half past six o’clock; performances com- mence at seven. Admission: boxes, four shillings; pit, two shillings; gallery, one shilling; upper gallery, Sixpence. Second price at nine o’clock. ROYAL SOHO THEATRE, 73, Dean Street, Soho. Erected by Miss Kelley, an actress of great celebrity, as a school for dramatic tuition, under the expectation of being honoured with the patronage of the Duke of Devonshire, and other members of the. aristocracy ; but the speculation was unsuccess- ful, involving its projector in irretrievable difficulties; it is now open occasionally for the performance of French plays, Amateur perform- ances, and Benefits. There is also a school for the purpose of teaching pupils for the stage. Lessee, Mr. Mowbray. Acting Manager, Mr. Shirley. When open, the prices of Admission vary. QUEEN’S TH EATRE, Tottenham Street, Tottenham Court Road. A small neat theatre; at one time under the management of that charming actress, Mrs. Nisbett, since whose reign, it has sadly retrograded. Lessee, Mr. C. J. James. Admission: boxes, two shillings; pit, one shilling; gallery Sixpence. Second price at nine o’clock. THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. 221 MARYLEBONE’ THEATRE, Church Street, Paddington. A ‘small, but neat house, tastefully de- corated. Lessee, Mr. Stammers, and previously to his suicide, in New- gate, under the management of the late Mr. G. Watts, who collected a very good working company around him, and met with very great success. Doors open at half-past six o’clock; peformances commence at seven. Admission: stalls, three shillings; boxes, two shillings; pit, one shilling; gallery, Sixpence. Second price at nine o’clock stalls, one shilling and Sixpence; boxes, one shilling. CITY OF LONDON THEATRE, Norton Folgate. Erected in 1837, from designs by Mr. Samuel Beazley, for the late Mrs. Honey, the celebrated and beautiful actress. Lessees, Messrs. Johnson and Nelson Lee. Doors open at six o’clock; performances commence at half-past six. Admission: boxes, one shilling; pit, Sixpence; gallery, threepence. Second price at half- past eight: boxes, Sixpence. GREAT NATIONAL STANDARD THEATRE, Shoreditch. A large and elegant theatre, capable of containing four thousand and three hundred persons, rebuilt in 1850, from designs by Mr. John Douglass, and opened October 19th, having many improve- ments in its interior arrangements, evidently suggested by a desire to do every thing that is possible, in order to afford both conveni— ence to the audience, and accommodation for the somewhat ambitious nature of the performances. What the Adelphi Theatre, from its situation, is to the Strand and the West End, this house is to Shore— ditch and the East End; standing as it does in a leading thorough- fare, directly opposite the terminus of the Eastern Counties Railway, and in the midst of a dense neighbourhood, it is nightly filled to over- flowing, and While the prices are such as to meet the wants of its patrons, the aim of the management would seem to be that of giving a superior style of entertainment, a course, which if resolutely per- severed in, must ultimately raise this theatre in public estimation, and redound to the permanent advantage of the proprietor. Lessee, Mr. John Douglass, formerly lessee of the Marylebone Theatre, who has collected around him an excellent working company, amongst whom may be named the lessee himself. Doors open at a quarter past six o’clock ; performances commence at a quarter before seven. Admission : private boxes, three shillings, and two shillings; dress crircle, one shilling and Sixpence; low er circle, one shilling; pit stalls, eightpence; pit, Sixpence; gallery, threepence. GARRICK THEATRE, Leman Street, Whitechapel. A commodious edifice devoted to melo- dramatic performances. Admission: boxes, one shilling; pit, SIX- pence; gallery, three-pence. GRECIAN SALOON, Eagle Tavern, City Road. The most popular, best conducted, and most prosperous of the numerous tavern theatres, with which London abounds; it is elegantly decorated, comfortably fitted up, and well adapted both for seeing and hearing. Proprietor, Mr. Conquest. The principal entertainments consist of opera, farce, and ballet ; each well supported by a numerous and talented company, including Mr. Ox- berry, Mr. Frazer, Miss Julia Harland, and other favourite performers. Open all the year round. Admission: boxes, one shilling; pit, one shilling, including a refreshment ticket to the amount of Sixpence. BRITANNIA SALOON, 188, High Street. Hoxton. The entertainments here, are a ve . in- ferlor kind of melo-dramatic performance. Lessee, Mr. S. ane. Doors open at six o’clock; performances commence at half-past six. Adrmssion: stage boxes, one shilling and Sixpence; boxes, one shil- 1mg; p1t, Slxpence; lower gallery, fourpence ; upper gallery, threepence. —— MISCELLANEOUS CONCERTS. No metropolis boasts of more amusements than London, when the veil which ordinarily hides them from the casual observer is drawn aside. During the season, scarcely a day passes without two or three morning or evening concerts, the particulars of which are duly an- nounced in the daily papers. The most important of these are usu— ally held at one or the other of the under-mentioned rooms. ‘ ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC, 4, Tenterden Street, Hanover Square. Founded in 1822, by the pre- sent Earl of \Vestmoreland. Instituted by charter of George IV.; its object being to train the youth of both sexes for the musical pro- fession, Which is taught by the first professors, at a moderate charge. Occasional concerts are given by the pupils of this institution, at which they evince uncommon proofs of proficiency. Four fellowships have been founded by the Academy; of which. one male and one female, are annually contended for at Christmas. THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. 223 .- [Elfi- ST. MARTIN’S HALL, Wilson Street, leading from Endell Street, to Drury Lane. Erected in 1848, from. designs by Mr. W. Westmacott, for the use of Mr. Hullah’s singing classes. It is in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and in the roof reminds one of the town halls, in Belgium. It has three entrances, from three different sides of the building; from Long Acre; in the east part in Charles Street; and in the north part in Wilson Street. Thexgreat concert hall will accommodate three thousand persons; in addition to which, there is a smaller concert hall, used for the purpose of rehearsals, in which quartette concerts, under the management 0. Mr. Willy, are given with great success. There are also several com- mittee rooms attached to this Hall. ' HANOVER SQUARE ROOMS, Corner of Hanover Street: a suite of rooms in which, during the season, numerous excellent benefit concerts are given upon a large scale; in these rooms also, the concerts of the Philharmonic Society take place, which, from their excellence, have obtained a world-wide reputation, and at which professors of first-rate eminence condescend to become mere members of the orchestra, executing the sublime compositions of Mozart, Beethoven, and Mendelsohn,with a precision and unity of feeling, unattained elsewhere. During the Winter. a ball for the Caledonian Asylum, takes place here, the company ap- pearing in full Highland costume, producing, by the great variety of their coloured tartans, a very gay and pleasing spectacle. ———' 2-24 LONDON. WILLIS’S ROOMS, King Street, St. J ames’s, more familiarly known as Almack’s, from the distinguished balls which are given here under the direction of a committee of Lady Patronesses; the highly coveted admission to which, can only be obtained by vouchers, or personal introduction. These rooms, which were completed in 1765, under the direction of Mr. Robert Mylne, the architect, had been built with such rapidity, that in order to allay the fears of the public, as to their damp con- dition, the proprietor in his opening advertisement, stated that they had been built with hot bricks and boiling water. Here take lace the concerts of the Musical Union, under the direction of Mr. ‘lla, which are becoming very popular, and highly remunerative; balls for charitable purposes are also given here ; and public meetings of a high character, are occasionally held in these rooms. ’ m 1' a. 'll 1" """"u 'I' " VT" ' '1 Win-4'5 "- ‘ _..'!.§‘111‘llll" CROSBY HALL, Bishopsgate Street; one of the most beautiful of the few remainmg specimens of domestic architecture of the fifteenth century; was built by Sir John Crosby, in 1466 : at his death in 1475, it became the resi- dence of the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III., and is frequently named by Shakspeare in his play of that name, and after- wards that of Sir Thomas More, the wise, learned, and amiable chan- cellor of Henry VlII., and the witty author of “ Utopia.” In 1523, Sir Thomas More sold it to his intimate friend, Antonio Bonvisr. and in 154.7, it came into the possession of \Villiam Roper, son-in-law, and William Rastell, nephew of Sir Thomas More, from whom it was alienated, on religious grounds, by Edward VI., in 1551, and THE THEATRES AND MUSIC. 225 conferred on Baron D’Arcy, of Chiche. The next inhabitant of Crosby Place was Alderman William Bond, who, dying in 1576, it passed into the possession of Sir John Spencer, lord mayor, in 1594, com monly known as the Rich Spencer, and at his death, in 1609, it descended to William Compton, first Earl of Northampton, who had married Elizabeth, his only daughter and heiress. The next resident here was Mary, Countess of Pembroke, “ Sidney’s sister, Pembroke’s mother; ” and we then find the celebrated Due de Sully, ambassador from France, lodged here, in the reign of James I.; the succeeding, and last man of note who resided here, was the gallant cavalier, Spencer, second Earl of Northampton, who accompanied Charles I. on his romantic journey to Madrid, to woo the Infanta of Spain, and who afterwards fell nobly in the moment of victory, at. the battle of Hopton Heath. At the Restoration, it was occupied by Sir Stephen Langham, and in his life time, the greater part of Crosby Place was destroyed by fire; and in 1677, Crosby Square was built on its ruins. The noble hall, which fortunately escaped destruction, was used for nearly a century, as a Presbyterian Meeting House, it was then turned into a packer’s warehouse, and was so used until 1831, when the lease having expired, funds were raised by subscription, to re- store it to something like its original magnificence. The restoration was commenced in 1836, and completed in 1842, since which time it has been used as a Literary Institution. The remaining buildings known as Crosby Hall, consist of the council chamber, the throne room and the great hall. The council chamber, sometimes called the dining room, is lighted by two large windows; the one in the corner of the left wall is a restoration, and has a flat, massive~ribbed ceiling, corresponding with the character of the room, and a low-pointed, but yery broad-arched chimney-piece, set in a square-deep moulding. The throne room has a rounded ceiling, divided into small compart- ments, by slender oak ribs; it is lighted similarly to the council chamber beneath, one of the windows being ornamented by a richly painted border, and the corner window is remarkably beautiful, ex- tending \from the floor to the ceiling; the, great hall, is fifty-four feet long, twenty-seven feet broad, and forty feet in height; the roof, the original one restored, is of great beauty. The oriel window, pre- sented by T. Willement, Esq., is ten feet ten inches in breadth, ex- tending the whole depth of the Hall, and is richly decorated with a series of armorial bearings of the various occupiers of Crosby Hall; remaining windows are also decorated with armorial bearings. 226 Lennon. CHAPTER XIII. THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES OF ART. The fine arts are great improvers of mankind; they are the living sources of refinement—softening and humanising the characters of men—assuaging the fierceness of the wilder passions—substituting calm and harmless enjoy- ment for more perilous excitement—maintaining the innocent intercourse of nations, and affording one more pledge of peace, their great patroness and protectress, as she is of all that is most precious and excellent among men.— Lord Brougham. THE BRITISH MUSEUM. To observe every the least difference that is in things, argues a quick and clear sight; and this keeps the understanding steady and right in its way to knowledge—Locke. Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury. This splendid national institution owes its first establishment to the will of Sir Hans Sloane, an eminent physician and naturalist of his day, who directed that on his death, his books, manuscripts, and collections, both of art and natural history, should be offered to Parliament for £20,000. The offer was accepted at his death, in 1753; and the Act (26 Geo. II.) which directed the purchase, also directed the purchase of the Harleian Library of Ma- nuscripts; and enacted that the Cottonian Library, which had been presented to the nation in the reign of \Villiam III., and deposited in Dean’s Yard, Westminster, should, with those, form one general col- lection ; to which, at the same time, George II. added a large library that had been collected by the preceding sovereigns since Henry VIII. To accommodate the national property thus accumulated, the Govern- ment raised, by lottery, the sum of £100,000, of which £20,000 was devoted to purchase the above collections : and in 1754, Montague House was bought of the Earl of Halifax, as a repository for the then infant establishment,—the cost of the purchase and necessary repairs and fittings being about £23,000. 'lhe British Museum was opened in the beginning of 1759. It would be tedious to furnish a complete list of the very numerous purchases and donations, by the aid of which the institution has risen to its present grandeur. In 1772, Parliament purchased Sir \Villiam Hamilton’s collection of Roman vases and curiosities. The Townley Marbles were added in 1805; two years after which was Opened the THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART.‘ ’ 227 Gallery of Antiquities. Colonel Gr'eville’s minerals were purchased in 1812; the Elgin and Phigalian Marbles came in immediately on the peace of 1815; Dr. Burney’s' library was purchased in 1818, for a sum 9f £13,500 ; Sir Joshua Banks’s library and herbarium were bequeathed m 1820; Egyptian Antiquities were bought from Messrs. Salt and Sums, to the amount of nearly £10,000; and in 1823, King George IV. presented the splendid and very valuable library of his father, George III., comprising upwards of seventy thousand volumes, now deposrted in a fine suite of rooms, in the lower story of the east wing of the new building. ’ .z—W $5?“;'r..,a‘~ wanna-e; as; ' - ,J,I1Ll1fi?“hifl , 9. Wm' — I' A‘ ' H is! 1 t ‘ V I: — x in. aa . . 4“ u§1§ S— r ,. {BEE ." '="_ '.‘« , . , 9,97%" WE .. Lr‘ .- THE KING’S LIBRARY. ~ Subsequent additions have annually been made, at great expense, both to the library and galleries; besides which, valuable donations have been made by Mr. Payne Knight, Sir G. Wilkinson, &c. ; in 1842, a large collection of marbles, from Xanthus, was presented by Mr. Fellowes; in 1846, a most interesting, and important addition was made by the arrival of the Budrun Marbles, which had been secured to this country through the exertions of Sir Stratford Canning, and more recently the Museum has been enriched by the splendid collec- tion of Nineveh Marbles, obtained through the untiring energies of Mr. Layard, and which are of such deep interest to the biblical student. The building in which the library and collections were originally deposited, having proved quite insufficient for their accommodation, Sir R. Smirke was desired by the trustees of the Museum to prepare designs for a newbuilding, more worthy of the collection and the nation. The works were commenced in 1825; and in 1828, was com- pleted the eastern wing of anew building, intended to enclose a '34.“ Iii". ', {ll {“11“le \,?::\ T n . ‘ ~\)‘”' ‘.’ r... 11-. ..J . :1“ . re: ~ ‘gfim iii - 1, . II ; ,‘ J v .H . 77:11: 1 V -} hlmafitsttn;we ' 228 LONDON. square. Three other sides have since been added, and the contents ot‘ the old Museum transferred thither, the last remains of the old building having been removed in 1845. In 1846, declining health induced the architect to relinquish the charge; and his brother, Mr. Sydney Smirke, has since been engaged in the completion of the work. When all the works now in progress shall have been corn- pleted, the British Museum will unquestionably be the grandest national establishment in the metropolis, and one of the first in Europe. The expenditure on these works up to the nresent time has been £753,492. The principal facade of the Museum is completed, with the excep- tion of its sculptural decorations, the execution of which. will neces- sarily occupy some time. The order of architecture adopted throughout the exterior of the building is the Grecian—Ionic. The southern front consists of the great entrance portico, eight. columns in Width, and two intercolumniations in projection; and is a grand and imposing entrance. On either side is an advancing wing, giving to the entire front an extent of 370 feet; the whole of which is surrounded by a colonnade, consisting of forty-four columns raised upon a stylobate five feet and a half high. The columns are five feet at their lower diameter, and forty-five high; the height from the pavement of the ' cnmnmmuj , 5 E :2 a: \- t Jung n7... tagzvfix‘p term“; a 13W \ . -f'l "L :fi lo H! ‘x lit; a \. ”gag: m 5% .+:.=& < .2;— _.___:= 3:313}: ’. 7 H I {Fir it 1‘31"- ".75; )1 s’fihfiy’l‘ " “151: -s Eel—“13:11.3 : .' : - * ENTRANCE HA‘LL. front court-yard to the top of the entablature of the colonnade is nifty-six feet and a half. The tympanum of the portieo is enriched With allegorical sculpture, by Sir Richard \Vestmncott descriptive of “ the Progress of Civilization.” , - THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 229 Crossing the Spacious court-yard,.the visitor gains admission by the principal entrance, under the portico of the south facade, by a carved oak door, nine feet wide, and twenty-four feet high, which is reached by a flight of twelve stone steps, one hundred and twenty-five feet in width, terminating on either side with pedestals intended to receive colossal groups of sculpture. The entrance-hall is of the Grecian-Doric order, sixty—two feet by fifty-one feet, and thirty feet high. The ceiling is trabeated (cross- beamed), deeply cofl'ered, and enriched with Greek frets, and other ornaments, painted in encaustic, in various colours, most harmoniously blended. The large gold star, upon a blue ground, in the centre of each coffer, has a superb effect. The floor is laid with large squares of Portland stone, and small gray marble diamonds at their angles. At the western extremity of the hall is the principal staircase. The centre flight is seventeen feet wide, and is flanked by pedestals of grey Aberdeen granite, upon which will be placed colossal sculpture. The walls on either side of this centre flight are cased with red Aber- deen granite, highly polished. On the first landing are two beautiful uses on pedestals of Huddlestone stone; and the balustrades are of the same material. The walls and ceiling are painted in oil, and in encaustic colours; and the ceiling is trabeated, coifered, and decorated to harmonise with the entrance-hall. These decorations have been executed by Messrs. Colman and Davies. CENTRAL HALL. So varied are the stores of the Museum, that all will there find gratification for their intellectual tastes, however opposite may be the direction they take. The artist and the naturalist, the antiquary and the man of seienee, will alike meet with what is congenial with 'their respective pursuits; therefore, although no one department “all be Q. 30 I .011 mm. universally interesting in the same degree to all—some perhaps of no interest to a g1eat many—each is 1espectively of paramount import- ance to thoseo whose studies are connected with it. At the top of the grand staircase, commences the suite of rooms appropriated to Natural History. THE NATURAL HISTORY DEPARTMENT, Was the principal one in the original Sloane collection, which formed the basis and nucleus of the present greatly enlarged and extended contents of the Museum, in connection with that branch of human science. The departments of ornithology and mineralogy, are now particularly rich : among the more valuable contributions to the latter, which have been made, from time to time, may be mentioned a col- lection of fossils, made by Mr. Menzies, on the north-west coast of America, and presented by George III, in 1797; the acquisitions of the Beroldingen fossils in 1810, and the splendid cabinet of minerals, formerly kept. in the royal observatory at Kew, the munificent donation of George IV. Theseo galleries occupy, on the upper floor, the eastern portion of the southo front, and the whole of the eastern and no1thern sides of the quadI angle; and are divided into five distinct par ts, all or which, except the first (still incomplete), are now open to the public :— THE BOTANICAL )II’SEI'M. THE MAMMALIA GALLERY. THE EASTERN ZOOLOGICAL DITTO. THE NORTHERN ZOOLOGICAL DITI‘O. THE NORTHERN OR MINI-211% DI'I'I‘O. mavwr The mammalia and the zoophites occupy the rooms of the south front; and the birds and shells are placed in the eastern gallery, lead- ing from the Mammalia Saloon, to the rooms on the north side of the north front, while the fishes and reptiles are placed in the rooms forming the south division of the north wing; so that all the 20010- gical collections are brought together in adjoining rooms, except the entomological one, to which a room at the north-west angle of the building is appropriated. These galleries consist of rather more than sixteen thousand superficial feet of “ wall cases ” alone ; and, although the height of the rooms are twenty feet, the cases do not rise higher than eight feet, so that a distinct inspection of every object is easily obtained. The collection of animals, which has been g1 eatly increased within the last few years, at a vast annual expense, have been admirably arranged, under the supeiinténdenee of the 1ndef1t1m1ble C111 ators. \iess1s. Kmnig and Gray, and ma) 110w both for extent. and beauty of exhibition:3 vie with the fiist museums of continental Eu1 ope oh the fl001 of these rooms are placed fine specimens of the giraffe, the elephant, the rhinoceros, and the hippopotamus. In the Mammalia Saloon, is also placed a very fine collection of corals. and brainstones. THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 7231 iii- 15“. ‘ , ~ / x _'._ l ' l f ' ’\ '* i " ‘ x: - " 53 V , :‘i: ' fiefigr | .1 . . A1,. EL - fl ‘ ”Emit: THE EASTERN ZOOLOGICAL GALLERY, Is a splendid apartment, extending nearly the whole length of the eastern wing, and is devoted to the reception of the truly mag- nificent collection of birds, of Which there are many thousand speci— mens, including, individuals of every known variety, from the magestic condor of the Andes, to the diminutive humming-bird of outh America, with its rich and beautiful plumage: here, too, may be seen the gorgeously coloured trogon, and the elegant lyre-bird; the sacred Ibis, and the domestic stork, together with the .stormy petrel, and the sea-gull of our own coasts. On the lower floor, the eastern portion of the south front, and part of the east wing, are devoted to the Library of Manuscripts. The remainder of the east side, and the whole of the north side of the quadrangle, are occupied by the Library of printed books. The ground-floor of all the buildings to the west of the quadrangle is ap- propriated to THE GALLERY OF ANTIQUITIES, \Vhich was first opened as a separate department in 1807, it originally consisted only of the marbles formerly belonging to the late Mr. 'l‘ownlcy and Sir Hans Sloane; some few monuments from Egypt, ceded at the capitulation of Alexandria; and the vases, (3111108111189 850., recovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum (cities buried AA}. 79, during an eruption of Vesuvius), and purchased from Sir W. Hamilton. This collection, however, has been subsequently so much enlarged, partly by presents and bequests, but chiefly by purchase (at a cost ex- ceeding £80,000), from the Earl of Elgin, Messrs. Salt, 2Sams, Durand, Q 232 - LONDON. Bronsted, Campanari, &c., that it has become one of the most valuable and extensive galleries in Europe. The entrance to this department is by a door to the left of the prin- ' cipal entrance; it occupies on the ground~floor, the south-western and western portion of the quadrangle, and is thus arranged :— 1. THE TOVVNL‘EY GALLERY. 2. THE LYCIAN ROOM. 3. THE NINEVEH GALLERY. 4. THE GRAND CENTRAL SALOON. 5 THE J’HIGALIAN SALOON. 6. THE ELGIN DI'I‘TO. 7 . THE EGYPTIAN DI'I‘TO. .—"I-. C“... . -. ~ . r I .. m? ,i " 4 7'; 5 VWVIVWM ” .{' '/< "TN? - ‘ ‘ I. E VSC‘i ' flulglmfiflmfl V M3" ,L lightly? lltlt‘tll‘lllgt'H. '1' *1 .. W: F ld‘fli'llgir’ ".i i I g \. 't’tltlftl It}. him", i , ' g lulllzfim 1: . " ’ W “I “‘1' L 3 u m ‘. pm" i I l l - ‘ '- ml: l ‘ if" was. " - .illuiillln .3"! ’5‘. it 14’s, B in. “'“hhfif-N ~ g | git-«t g 4 't ‘ _ n . - . v. . _. _‘ ,1. 151‘»; ,5 ,1 . |\ “firm; a an 7 3 -~“" AM «as: mg. . f‘. . § :kai'u'J' . ; . .. I) - \\ it!!! / ,./. THE LYCIAN ROOM. The contents of this room, scarcely inferior in interest to those in the Elgin collection, were discovered in 15:41, by that aealous. clas- sical archaeologist, 811‘ Charles F ellowes, in. or near hanthus, the capital of Lycia, one of the south-west. provmees ot Asia Minor, and under the direction of that gentleman. they were removed from that country, by two expeditions, undertaken. by her Mmesty's govern- ment, in the years 1842-1846, and deposxted 1n the Aluseum, when the present room was erected for their reception. The Nineveh Gallery, which )CCllplL‘S a. suite of three long and narrow apartments, runningnorth and South, contalns the collection of sculptures excavated chiefly by Mr. Luyard, M.P., on the. Site, or in the immediate vicinity of ancient Nllel'll. These sculptures are of the greatest interest, whether we Consider them as works of THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES OF ART. . '233 art, as engraved histories, or as corroborations of the truth of Scrip- ture, they are every way remarkable. The colossal-winged bull, and the colossal-winged lion, being especially objects of interest. fl mm; 21‘: 144,4 ,_, 1: ll t" .5 .u ff El“. 7 F THE ELGIN SALOON, Is a room chiefly noticeable for its size and unusual air of spacious- ness, being remarkably plain, with no other finishing than that of being painted in imitation of porphyry; but within these walls are deposited the most precious relics of ancient art—chefs d’wzwre of Gre- cian sculpture, at its most palmy period, the age of Pericles—works from the chisel of Phidias and his contemporaries—treasures of which England is envied the possession by the rest of Europe, and which owing to its being linked to them, immortalizes a name, that would else have only figured in an obituary, as that of a nobleman some- time ambassador to the Porte. THE EGYPTIAN SALOON. The colossal monuments, chiefly of Thebes and Memphis, the capi- tals of Upper and Lower Egypt, respectively, which are deposited in the Egyptian Saloon, derives an increased interest from the fact that they were principally executed during the best ages of Egyptian art, viz., between the times of Thothmes III., and Rameses II. (i. e. be- tween the years b. c. 1495 and 1360), at least five centuries prior to the dawning of Grecian civilization, and as early as the time of the Judges in Israel. The general characteristics of these sculptures, are extreme simplicity, or uniformity in the composition of the lines, want of variety in action, and the absence of any sentiment or ex- pression in the heads. For the light or majestic drapery of the Gre- cians, possessing all that is beautiful in outline, admlrable in effect, noble in design, and perfect in execution, we here see enormous masses 234 ' LONDON. of granite and porphyry, with colossal fragments of gigantic statues, whose enormous dimensions, overwhelmed by the shocks of nature, or the fury of the elements, have been scattered, in past ages, over regions at present inaccessible, or beneath the arid and burning sands, which have at once been their tomb and their protection. On leaving the Ante-Room, to the Egyptian Saloon, the visito’r ascends, at the north-west angle, a spacious flight of stairs, leading to the \Vestern Gallery, in which the smaller Egyptian, Greek, and Roman Antiquities are arranged as follows :— THE vrasrrnunn. 'rnr. MUMMY ROOM. THE BRONZE DITTO. THE ETRUSCAN ROOM. In}: new ROOM. THE MEDAL noon. THE mer ROOM. THE ETHXOGRAPHICAL ROOM- .00.“???fo 1.2—:2‘4- I "I {$3712 I Ml :l, ' I V 4 ' THE MUMMY ROOM. The contents of which (either purchased from Messrs. Salt and Sams, or presented by Sir G. \Vilkinson, and other travellers), are ex- tremely curious, and deserve a lengthened inspection, as illustrating the most minute particulars in the domestic history of the ancient Egyptians; and the interest is not a little heightened by a knowledge of the fact, that many of the specimens of art and manufactures be- long to a period as far back as the Exodus of the Israelites, ablut four centuries before the Trojan war. THE LIBRARY. The entrance to which is from Montague Place, is exclusively ap— propriated to the use of the readers. It contains about 800,000 distinct THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 235 works; 10,221 maps, plans, and charts; 29,626 volumes of MSS.; 2,946 rolls of various kinds; 23,772 charters and instruments; 208 MSS. on reed and bark; 55 on papyrus; and 851 seals and impress- ions. It is thus inferior in number only to the two great libraries of Munich and Paris. The number of readers possessing tickets of admission, is nearly 40,000, and the average number of readers per day, is 250. “Then the reading room was first opened, January 15th, 1750, there were only five readers. A magnificent collection of books, which forms an important section of the magazine of knowledge, con- tained within these classic walls, and called the Royal Library, was presented by George IV., and though equally accessible, is kept sepa- rate from the rest. The Museum is open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, between the hours of ten and four o’clock, from the 7th of September to the 1st. of May; and between the hours of ten and seven o’clock, from the 7th of May to the 1st of September. Admission free. The contents of the Medal and Print Rooms can be seen only by very few persons at a time, and by particular permission. Persons applying for the purposes of study or research, are admitted to the reading-rooms every day, from nine o’clock in the morning until four in the afternoon, between the 7th of September and the 1st of May; and until seven o’clock in the evening, between the 7th of May and the lst of September. Artists are admitted to study in the galleries of sculpture, between the. hours of nine and four o’clock, every day except Saturday. The Museum is closed from the lst to the 7th of January, the 1st to the 7th of May, and the 1st to the 7th of September, inclusive; on Ash- Wednesday, Good Friday, and Christmas-Day; and also on special Fast, or Thanksgiving Days, ordered by authority. Descriptive Guides, the Synopsis of the contents of the British Museum, price one Shilling; Clarke’s Hand-Book Guide, illustrated with numerous engravings, price six- pence. EAST INDIA MUSEUM. East India House, Leadenhall Street. This valuable collection is principally devoted to curiosities or articles of vertu, from the East, including many of the trophies that graced the arms of the troops of the Honourable East India Company, especially those taken at the siege of Seringapatam ; one ofthe most singular of which is a curious musical instrument, invented for the diversion of the Sultan Tippoo Saib, on the principle of an organ, which is built to resemble a tiger, killing and devouring a British officer, the sound of the music being intended to imitate his dying cries. Daggers, swords, and matehlocks, used by Indian heroes, and Persian warriors, are also exhibited in great numbers, with a variety of implements used in the households of social life. Open to visitors on Tuesdays and Thursdays, by order of any director of the Company : and on Saturdays, from ten till four o’clock, without any restriction. 236 LONDON. MUSEUM OF ECONOMIC GEOLOGY, 28, J ermyn Street, Piccadilly. Established in 1835, in consequence of a representation to the Government by Sir Henry De la Beche, C.B., that the geological survey then under the Ordnance, and in pro- gress in Cornwall, possessed great opportunity of illustrating the application of geology to the useful purposes of life. The collections were at first placed in Craig’s Court, Charing Cross, but they accu- mulated so rapidly, chiefly from donations, that a larger building became necessary for them. The present handsome structure, having a double frontage, was in consequence erected in 1848, from the designs of Mr. James Pennethorne. The Piccadilly facade is distin- guished by great boldness and originality of character in design, and possesses one singular feature—that there is no doorway in it; the entrance being in Jermyn Street. The north front is faced with Anston stone; the south front with Colchester bricks, and Anston stone dressings. On the ground-floor is a hall, forty feet wide by sixty-six feet long, formed into three divisions by Doric columns, for the exhibition of stones, marbles, the heavier geological specimens, and works of art. Ascending from the hall, by a staircase on each side of the entrance lobby, which joins in a central flight, between Ionic columns, the visitor arrives at the principal floor. The large gallery is a fine apartment, ninety—five feet long, by fifty-five feet wide, and thirty-two feet high to the springing of the roof; having two galleries along its sides to give access to the cases With Which the walls are lined. There is also a spacious theatre connected with this establishment, in which a course of lectures, illustrative of the science of geology, are delivered on the evenings of Monday, from January to June. Fee, one penny each lecture. Tus Museums Aim GALLERIES or ART. 237* The collections are already very considerable, and are rapidly in- creasing, chiefly, as at first, from donations. They comprise alike illustrations of the geology of the United Kingdom and 1ts colonies, and of the application of that science to the useful purposes of life, numerous models of mining works, mining machinery, metallurgical processes, and other operations, With needful maps, sections, and drawings, aiding a proper and comprehensive vieW of the subJect. _ Open daily, from ten till four o’clock. Admission, free. Descriptlve guide, one shillincr. UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTION, Scotland Yard, Whitehall. Established in 1831, as a central repository for objects of professional art, science, and natural history; and for books and documents relative to those studies, or of general informa- tion. The annual subscription is ten shillings, and the sum of six pounds constitutes a member for life. The museum consists of a commodious suite of rooms, and a library on the ground floor. The model-room contains many beautiful models and sections of ships of the line, gun-boats, rudders, and other implements of naval architec- ture. There is an extensive and valuable collection of natural history, particularly of insects and reptiles; the animals, which are in good preservation, are chiefly from, tropical climates. The mineralogical cabinet, Which consists of many thousand species, is very valuable. In the armoury chamber, admirably arranged under the superinten- dence of Mr. George Starcy, of the ordnance department, are many remarkable relics, which associate us with the great and perilous events in the history of our own and other countries. There is also a collection of Grecian and Roman vases and coins, and general antiqui- ties. Open daily éSaturdays excepted), from eleven till four o’clock, in the winter; an from eleven till five o’clock in the summer. In the council room is a fine large orrery, made for George III., and figured in Ferguson’s Astronomy. Admission by tickets, to be obtained from members; explanatory guide, one shilling. —_ SOCIETY OF ARTS, John Street, Adelphi. This important society was instituted in 1764, in pursuance of a plan formed in the preceding year, for the purpose of exciting emulation and industry in the improvement of ingenious and commercial arts, the various branches of agriculture, &c., by honorary and pecuniary rewards, as may be best adapted to the case, for the communication to the society, and through its medium to the public, of all such useful inventions, discoveries, and improvements, as tend to that purpose. In pursuance of this plan the society has expended upwards of £100,000, derived from voluntary subscriptions and legacies. The Museum contains a large and varied collection, illustrative of the progress of the arts for the last ninety years. In the meeting-room are Barry’s celebrated pictures :— . The Story of Orpheus. . A Grecian Harvest Home, or Thanksgiving to the Rural Deities, Ceres and Bacchus . Crowning the Victors at Olympia. . Navigation, or the Triumph of the Thames. . The Distribution of Premiums in the Society of Arts. . Elysium, or the state of Final Retribution. ODCIIAOO [OF-i Open Daily (except Wednesdays), from Ten till Three o’clock, Admission free. MUSEUM OF ORNAMENTAL ART, Marlborough House, Pall Mall. The object of this Museum is to illustrate the history, theory, and practical application of decorative art, and the collection embraces works of all periods from the earliest epochs to the present time. Open on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, and during Easter and Christmas weeks, from Ten to Five o’clock. Admission Free. On .‘Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, the public are admitted on the payment of Sixpence each person. Tm: MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 239. . My», HI | gull I I. , ll l , . 1, 1|, 3,. J it i I} . _»" til ‘ Hf“ . “-E‘JL Jim, l Eli! p. ‘1 1 |_\ ._.I THE SOANE MUSEUM, 13, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. One of the most unique and interesting collections in London, formed and founded in his own house, and be- queathed by Sir John Soane, in 1833, an Act of Parliament having been obtained to sanction its disposal in its present form. The Mu- seum, which occupies a suite of twenty-four rooms, erected in 1812, is enriched with a choice collection of Grecian and Roman specimens of architecture, Etruscan vases, and Egyptian antiquities. Among the latter, being the gem of the collection, is the celebrated alabaster sarcophagus, brought by Belzoni from the ruins of Thebes, and pur- chased by Sir John Soane of Mr. Salt, in 1824, for £2,000. The rooms are ornamented with paintings, by Canaletti; many of the originals of Hogarth, especially the Rake’s Progress, a series of eight pictures, purchased in 1802, for £508; and with the designs of Sir John Soane himself. Among other interesting objects, will be found the Napoleon medals, Sir Christopher Wren’s watch, and a pistol, formerly belonging to Peter the Great. Open to the public every Thursday and Friday, from ten till five o’clock, during the months of April, May, and J une-; and on Tuesdays, from the first in February to the last in August, for trustees and their friends. Persons desirous of obtaining admission, must apply a day or two previously, When tickets will be forwarded by post to their address. Foreigners and those unable to attend at- these stated periods, are admitted by special application. ONDON. MUSEUM OF NAVAL MODELS, Somerset House. A very extensive and highly interesting collection of Naval odels. Here may be seen what kind of ships they were which carried the flag of Howard, the conquerer of the Armada; of Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake; of Blake, who in disas- trous times, was true to his country’s honour, and taught the English sailor to be invincible; of all who have contributed to render England the Queen of the ocean, “ Howe, Jervis, Nelson, Collingwood; ” and here also may be seen developed the progress of an art, which has called forth the powers of minds of the highest scientific character, and taxed all their energies. Open daily. Admittance to be obtained by order, on application, from the Surveyor-General of the Navy, Captain Sir B. W. Walker, K.C.B. LONDON MISSIONARY MUSEUM, 7, Blomfield Street, Moorfields. A numerous collection of objects of natural history, and of idols and other symbols of heathen worship, in the region over which the care of the London Missionary Society extends, but principally from Asia and the South Sea Islands. The collection which wasfirst exhibited in Jewry Street, and subsequently in Austin Friars, was removed to the present capacious premises in 1835. This museum is particularly interesting, on account of all the ma- terials for its formation, having been collected by pious and indefatig- able missionaries, dispersed at various periods over the most distant regions of the earth, where they voluntarily undergo the greatest hardships and privations for the sake of promoting Christianity among the heathen. Many of the objects in the collection not only particularly illustrate the religious worship of the people among whom they were stationed, but many of them also display the inge- nuity of the savages in the manufacture of articles before their intercourse with Europeans; and others, again, the great advantage they have gained in the progress of the arts and civilization from the partial labours of the missionaries. There is also an extensive collection of Hindoo, Chinese, and Burmese idols, and a collection of portraits of native chiefs of the South Sea Islands and elsewhere, who have embraced Christianity and adopted European costume, as also several frames about two feet square, containing miniature portraits of many of the missionaries and their no less enterprising and- esti- mable wives. Among the articles which display the ingenuity of the natives of the Society Islands are beautifully-carved paddles, clubs, &c., executed with a, sharp stone as a cutting instrument; as also various specimens of cloth, manufactured by the natives from grass and reeds, from the bark of trees, and from the fibrous portion of the celebrated Coco. de-Mer. “ ' Open daily, from ten till five o’clock. Admission, free. MUSEUM OF THE COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. Lincoln‘s Inn Fields, south side. This magnificent Museum of pre- arations, attached to the Royal College of Surgeons—the first of its liind in the world—owes its foundation to the untiring industry and talents of John Hunter, the great anatomist and physiologist, who devoted his life to collecting the most important specimens in those great branches of knowledge~Natural History, Comparative Anat- omy, Physiology, and Pathology; the Museum was originally arranged by that gentleman in a building contiguous to his house, in Leicester Square, and was completed in 1787, when it was open for inspection during the month of October, to the medical profession, and from May to November, to professional patrons, and cultivators or lovers of physi- ology, or natural history; an arrangement, the liberality of which was duly appreciated. On his death it was purchased by Government of the executors of that great man, for £20,000; and a building hav- ing been erected for its reception, it was opened to the public in 1813. The Museum is an extensive building, of noble proportions and of an oblong form, with galleries surrounding it, erected in 1836, at the expense of the college, and at a cost of £40,000 ; the former building proving too small for the display and adequate arrangement of the numerous specimens that were afterwards added. It contains preparations of every part of the human body, in a sound and natural state, as well as a great number of deviations from the natural form and usual structure of the several parts. A portion of it is allotted to morbid preparations; and there are few of the diseases to which man is liable, of which examples are not to be found. There is also a rare and extensive collection of objects of natural history, which, through the medium of comparative anatomy, greatly contri- butes to physiological illustration ; and likewise a very considerable number of fossil and vegetable productions. The whole collection amounts to upwards of twenty thousand specimens and preparations. Amongst the many curiosities, is the wife of the celebrated Van Butchell, preserved in a long square mahogany box, with glass over the face, which may be removed at pleasure; an Inca of Peru, in a remarkable attitude ; some heads of savages ; the skeletons of O’Brien the Irish giant, and of a remarkably small female dwarf; with the skeleton of Chuny, the elephant that was shot at Exeter Change. Open to members on Mondays, “Wednesdays, and Fridays, from twelve till fom' o’clock, except the gallery, which is not open after two o’clock ; and to the public, on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from twelve till four o’clock, except during the month of September, when it is closed for the purpose of being cleaned : by leaving the name and address of the applicant previously. MEDICAL MUSEUM, Guy’s Hospital, St. Thomas’s Street, Borough. Specimens of anato- mical and physiological structure. Open daily. Introduction to be obtained by any of the students. —— ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM, Cannon Row, Parliament Street, \Vestminster. An extensive collec- tion of Casts, from the finest. ancient examples (both English and Foreign) of Architectural Carving and Sculpture, Efligies, &c. Rub- bings of Sepulchral Brasses, &c.; Tracings of Stained Glass and Mural Paintings; Encaustic Tiles; and other Objects of Art inci- dental to the practice of Architecture. Open every Day, excepting Saturday, from Ten till Four. Free. .— MUSEUM OF LONDON ANTIQUITIES, 5, Liverpool Street, Bishopsgate. It contains a large quantity of remarkable objects, illustrative of the condition of London in the time of the Romans, discovered during the past few years, and col- lected and preserved by Mr. Roach Smith. To the provincial and foreign antiquary this collection .is extremely valuable, as allording numerous points of comparison m the various classes of antiqmties. May be seen by appointment. THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 243 MUSEUM OF THE ASIATIC SOCIETY, 5, New Burlington Street. A collection of very choice Oriental speci- mens, illustrative of the arts, arms, economy, and antiquities of the eastern world. In the meeting-room is a library, rich in Oriental, Persian, Chinese, and Sanscritt MSS., and other works; and cases containing a variety of curious specimens. Above the cases are models, of a singular series, illustrative of Hindoo manners, all in different characteristic attitudes. In the ante-room are also some interesting models, amongst which may be noticed a model of the Pagoda and Convent of Priests, at Canton, which was assigned for the residence of Lords Macartney and Amherst, with their suites, when on their embassy to China, and which is one of the largest in that country. There is also a small collection of minerals, natural history, and remnants of sculpture; also an armoury, with a large collection of warlike instruments, from Bengal, Assam, Malabar, Malay, and New Zealand. Open daily, to members; and visitors, upon their written orders, on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, in each week, from eleven till four o’clock. Orders are easily obtainable at the rooms, 5, New Burlington Street. ENTOMOLOGICAL MUSEUM At the rooms of the Entomo-ogical Seeiety, 12, Bedford Row. The collection is very extensive, one considerable portion of it being that of the late Rev. Mr. Kirby, presented to the society by that gentle- man. There are in the Museum five cabinets. The number of indi- vidual specimens may be stated at about thirty thousand. Open, for the inspection of members and their friends, every Tuesday, from twelve till four o’clock. — ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM, 11, Hanover Square. Instituted in 1826, to encourage the science of which it bears the name. The Museum is rich in subjects of natural history. Open daily, from ten till five o’clock. Admission, by ticket, obtainable from members. ——_ MUSEUM OF THE ROYAL INSTITUTION 21, Albemarle Street. An extensive cabinet of minerals. Open daily, from ten till foul o’clock. Admission by member’s order. 244 ' Lennon. NATIONAL GALLERY, Trafalgar Square. Founded by a vote of Parliament, April 2nd, 1824, and the present building erected between 1832 and 1636, from designs by W. Wilkins, Esq, R.A., at a cost of £96,000. The gallery, which is nearly five hundred feet in length, consists of a central portico, of eight Corinthian columns in front and two in depth, ascended by steps at each end, at an elevation of eighteen feet from the ground; and two wings, each ornamented with four Corinthian columns. The por- tico is surmounted by a dome, and the whole range of building by a balustrade. The columns forming the portico originally graced the screen in front. of Carlton Palace, and were used for their present purpose on the demolition of that edifice. The portion of the building to the right side of the portico is devoted to the Royal Aca- demy; and that to the left. to the National Gallery; the two being connected by the grand staircase and vestibule, dividing the building into two equal parts, an arrangement whereby the efficiency of both institutions is seriously diminished; and although the removal of the Royal Academy, to more commodious rooms, has long been demanded, as essential to the requirements of modern art, and the incr iasing wants of the National Gallery, there seems but little prospect of such an arrangement being effected, as shall meet the necessities of the two galleries. The gallery, which originated in the purchase, by government, in 1824, of Mr. Angerstein’s collection of thirty-eight pictures, for £57,000, has been subsequently increased by purchase and donations, until it now possesses two hundred and fifteen pictures exclusive of Mr. Vernon’s noble gift of his 'aluable gallery of works of the English school, and which, according to the terms of the gift, is to be con- THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 245 ‘ tinued as a separate gallery, bearing his name. Although very inferior to the great galleries on the continent, it is, in many respects, ahighly important collection, containing, as it does, some of the best examples of the greatest masters; but until some better provision is made for the preservation of the present pictures, and room provided for further additions, by purchase and donation, it is somewhat ambitious to call it a National Gallery. Open on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, to the public generally: and on Friday and Saturday to artists only; from ten till five o’clock during the months of November, December, J an- uary, February, March, andApril; and from ten till six o’clock during the months of May, June, July, August, and the two first weeks in September. The Gallery is wholly closed during the last two weeks in September, and the whole of October; an unwise regulation, whereby thousands of persons, annually, are prevented from visiting this ostensibly National Gallery. Admission free. Ex- planatory guides:—official catalogue, one shilling; Clarke’s Hand- Book Guide, with critical and explanatory notes, by George Foggo, Esq., Sixpence. VERNON GALLERY, Marlborough House, Pall Mall. The Vernon Pictures, including those by English Masters, which were formerly in the National Gallery, are now placed in a suite of eight rooms on the ground floor of Marlborough House, until such time as a suitable provision for them can be made in the National Gallery. On entering the mansion from the court-yard, the visitor ascends a short flight of steps, into the noble hall, the ceiling of which, with the exception perhaps of that of \Vhitehall, is the finest in the king- dom, being decorated with the paintings which Gentileschi painted for Charles 1., and which were originally in the palace at Greenwich. In the hall stands Gibson’s beautiful group of Hylas and the Nymphs, and the busts bequeathed by Mr. Vernon with the paintings, as also a bust of that gentleman, purchased by subscription, and presented to the gallery. The entrance to the picture-gallery is from the right-hand corner of of the Hall. The public pass through the whole suite, and leave by a door on the left hand, close to the entrance, thus avoiding all occa- sion of collision by parties going in and coming out, an arrangement which will be found very convenient. The first two rooms are filled with English pictures belonging to the National Gallery, which are here seen to far greater advantage than in their old abode. ' The other six rooms contain the Vernon Pictures; and as they are hung generally in only two lines, they are seen to great advantage. Open under the same regulations as the Natlonal Gallery. Expla- natory guide: Clarke’s Handbook Guide, Sixpence, which may be had at the entrance to the gallery. R 246 LONDON. ROYAL ACADEMY, Trafalgar Square, was instituted by Royal Charter, in 1768. It con- sists of forty members (including a President), called Royal Acade- micians, twenty associates, and six associate engravers. The Academy possesses a collection of casts and models from the antique, a school of colouring, copies by Sir James Thornhill, from the cartoons of Raphael, at Hampton Court, and those from Rubens, &c., also the probationary pictures or sculptures presented by the members of the Academy on their election. The Royal Academy derives the whole of its funds, which are said to exceed £6000, from the produce of its annual exhibition. On the first day of opening, in 1847, £106 was taken; on the second, £114 ; and on the third, £130. Although the Society has its apartments rent 11%, in a building -rected at the public cost, at an expense of £96,000, the members have hitherto resisted all attempts that have been made to admit the working classes towards the close of the ex- hibition at a reduced charge; a course that has been adopted by some provincial societies with the happiest results. It is to be hoped that in any arrangements that may be made, with a View to obtain increased accommodation for the National Gallery, and which will no doubt result in the Academy receiving a considerable sum of public money by way of compensation for the loss of their apartments, to enable them to build a new gallery, that the interest of the people be kept in View, and that it be enjoined that the Exhibition be thrown open gratuitously for at least a fortnight towards the close of the season. The annual exhibition opens the first Monday in May, and continues open daily until the end of July, from eight o’clock till seven. Admission, one shilling ; catalogue, one shilling. Permission to View the Diploma pictures, may be obtained by a written application to the keeper at the gallery. Among the pictures may be noticed the following :— Portrait of Sir \Villiam Chambers, the architect of Somerset House, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Portrait of Sir Joshua Reynolds, in his doctor’s robes, by himself. Boys digging for a rat, by Sir David Wilkie. BRITISH INSTITUTION, 53, Pall Mall. Established in 1805, on a plan formed by Sir Thomas Bernard, for the purpose of encouraging British artists, and afi‘ording opportunities of exhibiting historical sulueets to a greater advantage than in the rooms of the Royal Academy, then exhibited at Somerset House. The gallery purchased for its use was erected by Alderman Boydel, for the exhibition of paintings for his edition of Shakspeare, and it is well suited for its present purpose. Over the entrance is a piece of sculpture by Banks, representing Shakspeare, accompanied by Painting and Poetry. Open in February, March, and April, for the exhibition of works by British artists; and in June, July and August, for the exhibition of paintings by the old masters. Admission, one shilling; catalogue, one shilling. THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 247 SOCIETY OF BRITISH ARTISTS, Suffolk Street, Pall Mall East. Instituted the 21st of May, 1823, for the annual exhibition and sale of works of living artists, in the various branches of painting, sculpture, architecture, and engraving. mcorporated by Royal Charter in 1846. The gallery was erected in I824, from the designs of Mr. Nash and J. Elmes, Esq. The elevation consists of a basement of three arches and four piers, on which is raised a tetrastyle detached portico, of the Palladian-Doric, with a proper entablature and pediment, with square acroteria; and consists of a suite of six rooms, having seven hundred feet of wall, lighted from above. It is not an exclusive society, but admits the works of living artists generally for exhibition and sale. . Open daily (Sundays excepted), during the months of April, May, June, and July, from nine o’clock till dusk. Admission, one shilling; catalogue, Sixpence. ———— SOCIETY OF PAINTERS IN WATER COLOURS, Pall Mall East, nearly opposite the portico of the College of Physi- cians. Established in 1804, for the purpose of giving due importance and encouragement to an interesting branch of art, which had not then sufficient prominence assigned it in the exhibitions of the Royal Academy. The Society have exhibited in their present gallery since 1823, when it was erected for that purpose. Their annual exhi- bition is one of the most attractive of the season. Open daily (Sundays excepted,) during the months of May, June, and July. Admission, one shilling; catalogue, Sixpence. NEW SOCIETY OF PAINTERS IN WATER COLOURS, South side of Pall Mall, next door west of the British Institution. Established in 1825, with similar objects to the parent Society. Many distinguished artists, not included in the older society, exhibit annu- ally their works here. ()pen daily (Sundays excepted), during the months of April, May, June, and July. Admission, one shilling; catalogue, Sixpence. EXHIBITION OF MODERN BRITISH ART, 5, Pall Mall East. A winter exhibition, consisting principally of “rater colour paintings, by the first artists of the day. Open daily Sundays excepted), during the months of November, Dom mber, and anuary, from ten till dusk. Admission, one shilling ; catalogue, Sixpence. a 2 J . THE NATIONAL INSTITUTION FOR THE EXHIBITION OF MODERN ART. Portland Gallery, 316, Regent Street. An annual exhibition of paintings in oil and water colours, and sculpture, by members of the Association to promote the Free Exhibition of modern Art, which now numbers upwards of one hundred members This exhibition is well deserving a visit from all lovers of the Fine Arts. The paint- ings being of a very high order, and the walls but scantily covered with portraits, which at the Royal Acadamy seem likely to mono- polize the whole space to the utter exclusion of original genius. Open daily, during the months of May, June, July, and August, from nine o’clock till dusk. Admission, one shilling; catalogue, six- pence. Open free for a fortnight before the close of the exhibition, an arrangement more liberal than that of any other similar institu- tion. ~— ARCHITECTURAL EXHIBITION, 54, Pall Mall. An attempt to supply a want, that had long been felt, for an adequate representation of this interesting branch of the fine arts : the neglect with which architectural subjects have been treated in the Royal Academy, having led to the foundation of this exhibition. Open daily during the months of August and September. Ad- mission free; catalogue, Sixpence. THE FINE ARTS GALLERY, Pantheon, Oxford Street. A suite of rooms devoted to the display, for sale, of a collection of modern paintings, by English artists, many of which are of great excellence. The exhibition is well worthy of a visit. Open daily (Sundays exceptedl. Admission free; catalogue, six- pence .— ART UNION EXHIBITION, Suffolk Street, Pall Mall. This is an annual exhibition of the prize t,iotures selected by the subscribers to this society, held in the rooms of the Society of British Artists. Open daily during the month of September, from ten till four o’clock in the morning, and from seven till ten o’clock in the evening. Admission by tickets, which may be obtained of any subscriber; or, by addressing a polite note to the secretary, at the r-Eice of the society, “rest Strand. Catalogue, six- pence. THE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES OF ART. 249 gfl7lenr - _ , “xi—2:— 'l I I ‘. I ‘\ 1 / ,/- \-\ ‘53.. if? l ‘ . DULWlCH GALLERY Dulwich College. A collection of pictures attached to Dulwicn Col- lege, situated about five miles from the bridges, and easily reached by omnibus from Fleet Street, or Gracechurch Street. The picture gal- lery, which was erected in 1813, under the direction of Sir John Soane, contains the collection of paintings bequeathed by Sir Francis Bourgeois to the college, after a vain attempt to induce the govern- ment to accept of them as the foundation of a National Gallery. The gallery is particularly rich in the works of Cuyp, Murillo, Nicholas Poussin, Wouvermans, and other masters of the Dutch school, as also a few subjects by the amateur donor himself. The pictures which form this interesting gallery were originally collected by'Mr. Noel Desenfans, a picture dealer in London, who was employed by Stanislaus, King of Poland, to make a collection of paintings for him; in consequence however of the dismembcrment. of Poland, and the subsequent death of the King, many of these pictures remained in the hands of Mr. Desenfans, and he dying in 1807, be- queathed them to his friend Sir Peter FrancisZBourgeois, Kt, R.A., an artist of moderate abilities, but endowed with some of his own fervent enthusiasm; who being desirous to keep the collection entire and undivided,.at his death bequeathed them, at the recommendation of John Philip Kemble, to;Dulwich College, as a permanent instltution for the gratification of the British nation, with £12,000 to bulld a suitable gallery, where they could be seen by the public, and to meet the consequent expenses. . . The public are admitted by tickets, a legulation which mlght, after the experience at the National Gallery, Hampton Court and elsewhere, be advantageously abolished. . 250 , LONDON. .Opcn daily (except Friday and Sunday) ; hours of admission, from April to November, from tenrmtill five; and from November to April, from eleven to three. Tickets may be obtained, gratis, of Messrs. Graves, and Co., 6, Pall Mall; Messrs. Colnaghi and Co., Pall Mall East; Mr. Carpenter, Old Bond Street; Mr. Leath, St. Paul’s Church- yard; Mr. Moon, Threadneedle Street; Messrs. H. Leggatt and Co., Cornhill; and .Messrs. Ackerman and Co., 96, Strand The entrance to the gallery is at the South end of the College. Clarke’s Hand- Book Guide, threepence. —_ TH E NAVAL GALLERY, Greenwich Hospital. A collection of portraits of celebrated admirals, and of paintings illustrative of the naval supremacy of England, pre- sented or bequeathed by George 1V., William IV., and other distin- guished individuals, and deposited in the Painted Hall and an adjoining room. The decorations of the Hall, which were painted by Sir James Thornhill, have been restored and enriched, under the su- perintendence of Mr. Clarkson Stanfield, R.A., under whose immediate direction, in 1848, the pictures were re-arranged. Amongst the nu- merous paintings of national interest with which the walls are graced, may be noticed a portrait of Nelson, and illustrations of most of the actions of his short, but energetic and eventful life; as also portraits of \many of his friends and contemporary captains and admirals; here are also deposited the coat worn by him at the Battle of the Nile, in 1798; and the coat and waistcoat worn on board the Victory, when he received his death wound, at the Battle of Trafalgar, October 21st, 1805. Open every week day. from ten till seven, during the summer months; and from ten to four in the winter; and on Sunday, after Divine service in the morning. On Monday and Friday open free; and on other days on payment of twopence. Soldiers and sailors are admitted free at all times. Clarke’s HandBook Guide, threepence. —— THE ROYAL GALLERY. Hampton Court Palace. About twelve miles westward of London, on the banks of the river Thames, and easily reached in less than three quarters of an hour, by the South-Western Railway. The state apartments, and many other roooms, have been converted into a public picture gallery, in which will be found the celebrated cartoons of Rafl'aclle, and a collection of upwards of fourteen hundred pictures, many of which are of great excellence. Open to the public on every day of the week (including Sunday) excepting Friday. when it is closed for the purpose of cleaning the apartments. The hours are from ten o’clock in the morning until six o’clock in the evening, from the lst of April to the lst of October and for the remainder of the year from ten till four. N o fee or pay ment of any kind. Tun MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES or ART. 251 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY, ' . Buckingham Palace. This valuable and highly interesting collection of pictures is placed in an extensive corridor, that occupies the centre of along range of apartments on each side of it; the gallery thus formed being lighted from the roof; it has recently been re-decorated, and on the walls are hung the Dutch and Flemish pictures, collected under the advice of Lord Farnborough, by His Majesty George 1V., whose predilection was entirely for this school, while the rare and numerous specimens he acquired afford proof of a consummate judg- ment in this branch of art. Permission to view this extensive and choice collection may be ob- tained by persons of known respectability, or who are properly recommended, by application to the Lord Chamberlain, at St. James’s Palace. The pictures can only be seen during the absence of Her Majesty from the Palace. THE WALLERSTEIN GALLERY, Kensington Palace. The collection of Byzantine, early Italian, Ger- man, and Flemish pictures, forming the collection of his Serene High- ness Prince Louis (1’ Ottingen Wallerstein. This collection, the only one of a similar class in England, possesses much interest. ‘ It is placed in the state apartments on the south side of the Palace, and occupies the rooms in which Her present Majesty passed her youth. Admission is only granted by Prince Albert’s permission, for which purpose the keeper, Mr. Louis Gruner, N o. 13, Fitzroy Square, may be addressed. THE BRIDGEWATER GALLERY, Bridgcwater House, Cleveland Row, St. James’s. This famous col- lection, for which a sumptuous gallery has been erected (1851) by the Earl of Ellesmere, was formed principally from the collection of the Palais Royal, belonging to the Dukes of Orleans, by the last Duke of Bridgewater, who availed himself largely of the opportunity. The present possessor of this matchless collection, the Earl of Ellesmere, has made several important additions; and it now ranks the first in importance and number of all the private collections in England. Some idea of its pictorial treasures, many of which are of the very highest- class, may be formed, when we state it contains/ four by Rafl'aelle, five by Titian, seven by Annibal Carracci, five by Ludovico Carracci, five by Domenicheno, and eight by Nicolo Poussin. ' On the completion of the noble gallery now in course of construc- tion, it will be accessible to the public, under certain restrictions. CHAPTER XIV. MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITIONS. Let 3our shows be newr as strange, Let them oft and sweetly \ar3, Let them haste so to their change, As the séers may not tarry—Ben Jonson. ‘9‘! ‘ “it‘ll? “2’ 11151351 my; *1 mil 1;, Eu], THE COLOSSEUM, Regents Park, 15 similar 1n design, and nearly as large, as the Pantheon at. Rome . it was erected in 18 )4 t1 om the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton, and is one of the most eolossal stiuctures ever designed by individual enterprise for the gratification of the public, being one hundred and thirty feet 1n diameter, by one hundred and ten feet in height; it is polygonal in form, and is su1mounted by an immense glazed cupola. In front is a grand portieo, With six large fluted columns, of the Grecian-Doric order, supporting a bold pediment. In this noble building, itself a great o1nament to the Regent’ s Park, was exhibited the extraordinary Panorama of London, originall designed by Mr. Homer, and painted byi Mr. E. T. Parris, ando whic tor many 3 ea1s 11 as the most attractive exhibition 1n London. MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITIONS. 253 ____._ -—--=-———~ 2 , —_ _..—.______. ...._.__ ——‘""——‘—’T ‘_.—__. MR. ALBERT SMITH’S ASCENT OF MONT BLANC, Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. This highly popular and attractive exhi- bition which has now been represented upwards of 1000 times consists of Mr. Albert. Smith’s entertaining account of his celebrated ascent. of Mont Blanc, with views of the Bernese Oberland and the Simplon The illustrative views have been painted by Mr. W. Beverley, who accompanied Mr. Albert Smith, to Chamouni, and are very effective and truthful pictures of the romantic scenery described by Mr. Smith The room in which the lecture is delivered, is very tastefully fitted up, to represent part of a Swiss village, with buildings of thematural size, and has altogether a novel and exceedingly picturesque effect. Open daily (except Saturday), at eight o’clock. Morning repre- sentations on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at three o’clock. Admission, one shilling; area, two shillings; stalls, three shillings. Descriptive guide, Sixpence. ' -“*‘ n .“ ‘ ‘ $.61. “‘:""" "' "‘ “ " -' " "'; ‘" ,.g";:.;'.:..—.;‘.. ”.7.“- Mumm afimfiror -.z-:&:;'H:22‘Em‘_ ,5 AFB-em.— :——-~_ ~.—.;,—_. .-.. ”yl'wyru . 1 . fal‘ i I "l‘ 4. rm}. 163mm ijvq If I THE BA 31: BAZAAR 5 I x .,:?V:"' 1H 1 ' .: 1‘ I,“ [Anviytzruln . ‘5‘, MADAME TUSSAUD & SON’S EXHIBITION, Bazaar, Baker Street, Portman Square. The visitor on entering this establishment from Baker Street, passes tbrough a small ball taste- fully decorated with casts from the antique and the best modern sculp- tures, and proceeds by a wide staircase to a saloon at its summit, which is richly ornamented by a radiant combination of arabesques, artificial flowers, and mirrored embellishments. Here, at. a small table, sits a lady who receives the admission money, an oflice which for so many years was performed by the late Madame Tussaud, her- self; and numerous of our readers will doubtless remember her, as she sat there easy and self-possessed, her accent at once proclaiming her gallic origin. From the saloon, the great room is at once entered, and here the excess of light which fills the whole apartment at once dazzles and delights the spectator. This room is about one hundred feet in length by fifty feet in width, and ot' a proportionate height. The walls are panelled with plate glass, and richly decorated with draperies and burnished gilt ornaments in the Louis Quartorze style. The princi- pal statues and groups are placed round the four-sides, and the large scenic combinations of figures in the centre of the room; the most MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITIONS. 255 imposing, being that of the coronation of her present Majesty, in which are introduced portraits of the principal actors in that august ceremonial; there is likewise a pleasing group of the Royal Family at home, in which the likeness of Her Majesty is admirably rendered. Another interesting group is that of Charles I. and II. and Oliver Cromwell, opposite ‘to which is a figure of Richard III. in a splendid suit of burnished gold armour. Near to these figures Sits a life-like representation of the celebrated Cobbett, his head slowly moving, as if in admiration of the group ; and behind him is a figure of the late Mme. 'l‘ussaud, so true to nature, as to have deceived thousands of visitors. \Vould you not deem it breath’d? and that those veins Did verily bear blood? Over the principal entrance is an orchestra, in which during the awning exhibitions, appropriate music is performed. Beyond the saloon is a handsome suite of three new rooms, in the first of which THE HALL OF KINGS Is placed; the celebrated group of the various members of the House of Brunswick, the centre figure in which is that of George 1V., modelled from life, and wearing his gorgeous coronation robes ; on the walls, hung with crimson drapery, are portraits of Her Majesty, by Hayter; Prince Albert, by Paton; George IV., by Hudson; George III., and Queen Charlotte, from the late Queen Dowager’s collection; George IV., by Sir T. Lawrence; William IV., by Simpson; Louis XIV., by Roussell; Duchess de Vau, and the Duchess de Mazarin, by Sir P. Lely. Here is also placed a bust of Prince Albert, by Francis, at once admirable as a work of art, and for its great fidelity. 'lhe Napoleon room, adjoining, is of great interest, from its con- taining a number of authentic relics belonging to the late Emperor ;. the most important being the camp-bed used by him at St. Helena, and on which he died ; the cloak worn by him at Marengo; and the travelling carriage in which he fled from \Vaterloo. The Chamber of Horrors is a room set apart for models of the heads of the principal actors who were decollated in the first French Revo- 1ution; together with some of the most noted murderers of modern times ; including Daniel Gmd, James Blomfield Rush, and the infa- mous Manning-s. Here is: also the identical shirt of Henry IV., of France, in which he was aszussisated, retaining the bloody appearance, and the marks of the fatal dagger. The late estimable proprietress of this very interesting exhibi‘ tion was a Spectator of some of the most striking scenes of the first French Revolution. Her talent in this art was unique, and the skill with which the groups are arranged, and the truthfulness of the full- length figures of the most noted persons of the age, lend a charm to this exhibition which no other collection of a similar nature ever possessed. It is, indeed, a perfect museum of historical and biographical illustrations, some of which are very admirable specimens of portraiture, and as near the original as the plastic art can possibly attain. Open daily, from ten o’clock in the morning till ten at night. Admission, one shilling ; catalogue, Sixpence; to the Napoleon room, and Chamber of Horrors, admission Sixpence. IIII' /‘ , III? I IIII'”IIIIIi .IIII'" III/IIHI'" ........ I IIII . if . ' I ..... _ .I ‘ .‘Eii" I‘I‘II‘ II III a I I. III I II IIIT —-—~ I‘ .iIiII- ROYAL POLYTECHNIC lNSTlTUTlON, 309, Regent St1eet, near Po1tland Place. Inco1porated bv Royal Cha1ter, and fi1st opened to the public 011 \Iondav, the 6th of -\ug1ist, 1838, tor the exhibition of novelties 111 the a1 ts and pi act1cal sciences. especially in connexion with agriculture, mining, manufactures, ant~ .other branches of industry. The premises are spacious and well appointed; and extend, f1o111 the east ent1a11ce, in Regent Street th1ee hundl ed and twenty feet 111 depth. including the mansion, No. a, Cavendish Squa1e. rl he exhibition consists for the most part of mechanical and other models. dist1ibuted through various apartments; the1e is a hall, devoted to manufactming p1ocesses, a laboratmy beneath, a theatre o1 lectu1e— —100m above, a very spacious hall, and othe1 apa1tn1ents.'lhe galle1_v contains upwaids of five hundred Specimens, amongst which we would direct the especial attention of such of our readers as are sutferin g from tender feet, to case 894, con- taining specimens of elastic boots, the invention of Mr. Sparks Hall, Whose establishment is opposite to this institution; these boots having, been wo111 by Hei Majestv in ascending the highest hills in Scotland, duiing he1 1eeent visit to that count1 v, sufficientlv attest their com- fo1t and ut1hty Sevc1al mannfactmes and a1ts are also shown in their processes; the objects exhibited. and the lectu1 es in explanation thereof, are 1epeatcdly changed, to admit. the topics of gene1al inte rest: thus—aex 1111 navigation, the elect1ic telegraph, Dagrieultural chemistry, and the electiic light, have successively taken theii places among the leading attractions. Open daily, from ten till five oclock; and ‘from seven till ten o'clock. Admission, one shilling; expla11ato1y guide, one shilling LONDON. 257 MR. WYLD’S MODEL OF THE GLOBE, In the centre of Leicester Square is situated an octagonal brick edifice of unpretendin‘g exterior, but of considerable size, topped by a metal covered cupola. This structure, erected in the early part 0t 1851, from designs by Mr. Abraham, contains Mr. V‘Vyld’s Great Model of the Globe, one of the most pleasingly instructive sights in the metropolis. This novel project originated with Mr. Wyld, the well-known map dealer of Charing Cross, whose business avocations may be fairly considered to specially qualify him for an undertaking of this character, as boldly speculative, as it is original. The object of the proprietor is to present at a glance the physical geography of the globe. For this purpose a spacious dome of sixty- eight feet high, and sixty—five feet in diameter, has been raised; the interior of which has been covered with a representation of the earth’s surface, modelled in plaister. The very ingenious “raised maps,” of Switzerland, by Bauerkeller, have been long familiar with the public: an admirable specimen of this style of geographical art, was a model by Mr. Carrington, the engineer, of several northern coun- ties: in such models, the elevations and depressions of the earth’s surface are shown to a scale that somewhat approximates—not, of course, too strictly—to the proportions of the actual objects repre- sented ; the hills and valleys, the land and water, being appropriately coloured. The visitor passes into the interior of the Globe, and there gains a coup d’oez'l of the whole world. This illusion, interesting as it is, somewhat violates the proprieties : for it causes the observer to see all the phenomena in reverse. In no other method, however, could an entire picture have been obtained ; from the convex side the spectator could necessarily have had only a limited field of observation. The Globe itself is, although the chief object of interest, not the only one: an excellent ethnographical CUllL'ctwu, shows the varieties and attri- butes of the human race; and the corridors and passages are hung with choice maps and drawings, appropriate to the general design of geographical instruction. Open daily, from ten in the morning till ten in the evening. Admission, one shilling. BURFORD’S PANORAMA, Leicester Square. This exhibition is the oldest establishment of the kind in London, having been originally opened in 1794 : it is under the proprietorship of Mr. Robert Burford. This gentleman’s ever active pencil, places before our view, in rapid succession, every spot celebrated in ancient or modern history, or deriving eelat from recent passing events. The views are open from ten o’clock till dusk, all the; year round. AdmisSion,one shilling each vieW'; or two shillings and Sixpence to the three. Schools, half-price. Descriptive guide, Sixpence. , 293:» WW «I II [‘I‘ll £31!!! A I} I'.. . MISCELLANEOUS EXHIBITIONS. 259 ROYAL PANOPTICON OF SCIENCE AND ART, Leicester Square. In plan and object the Panopticon is somewhat akin to the Polytechnic Institution. It aspires to be a school for the instruction of the community in matters scientific and artistic, to . gratify the eye by the grace and variety of its resources, and at the same tlme, afford the more solid benefits deducible from practical investigation in all the branches of knowledge, connected with all. the ordinary pursuits: of life It owes its origin mainly to the energy of’Mr. E. M. Clarke, the Managing Director, Who not only conceived the idea of establishing an entirely new institution, but also succeeded in enlisting the co-operaion of a number of highly influential indi- viduals, and in ultimately obtaining a Royal charter of incorporaton, thus securing the permanent success of the Institution. The edifice itself, is a very fine specimen of the saracenic style of architecture, derived chiefly from the Alhambra, and other remains of Moorish rule, in Spain. The entrance is through a porch and port- cullis, the latter a magnificent example of cast iron work, giving access to the principal apartment—the rotunda—gained immediately on passing the vestibule. Its effect is extremely fine. A subdued and meditative light is felt to pervade it, and at once to,win the mind from the external world of bustle and throng from which it has just escaped. Its dimensions from wall to wall are ninety-seven feet; and as the first impression melts away, and leaves us free to the examina- tion of its contents, we are forcibly struck by the excellent selections of modern sculpture. These surround other objects on the floor of the rotunda, and are ranged under the first gallery. Within the circle formed by the statuary is ranged the principal machinery, which again incloses an ornamental basin, in which the center jet of water is surrounded by eight converging jets. Amongst the machinery is placed a colossal electric apparatus, which stands in front of the grand organ. This magnificent instrument is opposite the entrance, and seems to pervade one side of the apartment. The galleries are spacious, and afford perfect facilities for obtaining general views of the hall. F aeing the organ, there are in each gallery seats ranged on an incline for an audience, and stalls are placed around for the exhibition of manufactures in their different processes. From the second gallery, we may ascend by a staircase to a department tOr the practice of photography. Lecture-rooms are attached to the main exhibition. The room in tne north wing forms at once a picture-gallery and a convenient hall for literary and artistic lectures. The south lecture-room is designed for scientific expositions—and is therefore arranged more carefully. Its object being to make each of the audience a spectator of what is going on, it is constructed on the semicircular principle. Open daily, morning from 12 to 5; rvening from 7 to 10: Satur- days excepted. Admission, one Shilling; Saturdays ; two shillings and Sixpence. Schools and Children under 10, half-price. 260 MISCELLANEOU'S EXIBITons. t' figxlh A J92? 7 “.; ‘ 4' ".ti \. u , p Y a k”; Jul“ IIIIIIIIB LOVE’S LONDON SEASON, Upper Hall, Regent Gallery, 69, Quadrant. This highly popular exhibition consists of a monologue entertainment by Mr. Love,whose delineation of the various characters he assumes, is remarkably good; Whilst his ventriloquial performances are unequalled by any living professor of this singular art. Open every evening (Saturdays excepted), at. eight o’clock.‘ Ad- mission onc shilling ; area two shillings; dress stalls. three shillings. A morning performance every Saturday, at three o’clock. In addition to the foregoing. there are numerous other exhibitions to be seen from time to time in London : but. as thev are only opened for a limited period, and are continually changing, ive must refer the visitor to the daily papers, in which all novelties, as they occur, are duly announced. THE TOWER AND THE ROYAL HosprrALs.‘ " r 261 , /. t 4; , 0 —— Rise, fair Augusta, lift thy head; With golden towers thy front adorn : Thy lovely form and fresh-reviving state, In crystal floods of Thames survey—Congress. THE TOWER OF LONDON. WHAT its Capitol was to Rome—what the Kremlin is to Moscow-— such is the “Tower” to London, its palace citadel and stronghold, and the monument most closely connected with its popular annals and the history of the state. Indeed, it is chiefly in this latter respect, and on account of the objects of curiosity for which it serves as a repository, that the Tower now possesses much interest, since so far from being an imposing object to the eye, it shows itself only as a huddled-up mass of buildings, some of them comparatively modern; and none of them, with the exception of the new barracks, particularly dignified in appearance. The sole feature which gives character to theextenor, in a general view, is that lofty, 11 right structure, distinguished “by the name of the “ White Tower 3’ {were it not for that, Whlcll, w1th 8 262 Loxnox. the turrets at its angles, forms a bold and conspicuous architectural object in the views from the river, and the opposite shores, the Tower would hardly be distinguishable at any distance. To survey the Tower with advantage, taking the more important objects step by step, the visitor should commence at the principal entrance, by the spur-gate, on the west side, facing Lower Thames Street, after passing through which he will proceed through other fortified gateways, of rude and venerable appearance, along an avenue, bounded on the south side by the external walls and ramparts, and on the north by a very lofty mass of apparently solid wall, having only here and there an upper window, conveying the idea of habita- tion, and thereby rendering the expression of prodigious strength and security all the more forcible. A somewhat similar effect is pro- duced by the smaller and more modern erections scattered about below: and at intervals are obtained peeps into streets, and lanes of houses, picturesque enough when taken collectively, but not prepos- sessing in their physiognomy when considered separately. Having turned through the third gateway, and proceeded a short distance towards the Parade, the visitor finds himself, on turning a corner, almost at the foot of the White Tower and coming thus suddenly . upon it, is the more impressed with its loftiness. u , . , ’1 .. ‘~ . A a.” .2: v ski-1". " L i It ‘ -,) .. . 1" '. _ 15. l' s . em 2! v #2 M “I ' v 'A ’ ’ 3" l 1 l" "b I 7.. V 1.: I ' I -. .4" c v r ' ....“' . v o..— u IV .r—‘< iii-i ._ l 2' ‘n—us' .. . 4');- JV ' 2'1: ‘ nWAfilLu-IU ‘i I". :3. ,g-{n '9‘ H'CARER ‘ _.._—_’- “—— ‘ - ~_ *—_ — L THE WHITE TOWER. This structure, the most ancient of all the existing buildings, and nerally supposed to have been erected, or at least begun, by the nqueror, about 1078,\when be employed Gundulph, Bisth of THE Towns AND THE ROYAL HOSPITALS. 263 : Rochester, for his architect; is a quadrangular and nearly square- edifice, measuring about one hundred and sixteen feet on its north and: south sides, and ninety-six on the east and west; and is about ninety feet high, exclusive of the turrets at the four angles. After being repaired in the reign of Henry VIII. (1552), it was again put into good condition in that of George II., and the windows modernised, by being converted into the present very un-Norman looking, large, arched, sash-windows. The Norman Chapel of St. John one of the most com- plete specimens of a Norman Church on a small scale, in the up er part of the Keep, or White Tower, originally used by the Eng ish monarchs as a place of worship, is now devoted to the preservation of a portion of the public records; and the celebrated state prisons are mostly filled with military stores, or occupied as ofliees; one of the vaults is said to have been the prison of Sir Walter Raleigh, in which he wrote his History of the World. ‘ At the foot of the White Tower, on its south side, is ‘ , THE HORSE ARMO‘URY, Erected in 1826. A long, low, and not very wide room, with a sort of aisle on its south side, with pillars and arches meant to pass for Gothic. .Here are ranged a long line of British monarchs and war- riors, twenty-two in number. on their war~steeds, and cased in com- plete armour, the whole forming a very interesting record of the various changes which have taken place in the use of armour from the time ofEdward I., to that of James II., (1272—1686). The gen~ .eral arrangement of the suits and gallery was made by the late Sir Samuel Meyrick; each suit is assigned, for the sake of chronology, to some King or Knight; but, except in a few instances, they are not known to have been worn by the parties to whom they are ass1gned. The ceiling is characteristically ornamented with devices and deco- rations, composed of spears, pistols, and other military weapons. Qn 264 . LONDON. the right of this armoury is a room containing specimens of the difl'eb ent kinds of fire-arms in use at various times since the first invention of gunnery; also three swords, a helmet, and girdle, which belongédto Tippoo Saib; and some Chinese military dresses, taken in the conflicts between the British and Chinese. 1m? .' 0 3E - ‘: QUEEN ELIZABETH’S ARMOURY ls entered by a staircase from the north-east corner of the Horse 7 Armoury. This collection was formerly called the Spanish Armoury, from the fable of its having been formed from the spoils of the Armada. The name has however, for some time, been changed to the ‘ more appropriate title of Queen Elizabeth’s Armoury, most of the weapons contained in it being of the period of her reign, or of those immediately preceding. It is altogether a very interesting collection ; its foreign character is attributed by the author of an ingenious treatise on ancient armour, to the anxiety of Queen Elizabeth to maintain the hardy character of Her people; joined to the desire for warlike expe- ditions to foreign shores, which seemed to actuate the whole British I‘HE TOWER AND THE ROYAL HOSPITALS. 265 Nation in the days of Raleigh and Essex, and Sidney; for which purpose many improvements and importations from Italy and Spain were effected, in the fashion of armour and warlike instruments of this period. , It contains a great variety of all the weapons in use in Europe during the period preceding the introduction of fire-arms—the bill, ‘ the glaive, the guisarme, the ranseur, the spetum, the spontoon, the boar-spear, the partizan, pike, halbert, &c., with many other curiosities of that period relating to warfare; and at one end of the room is a figure of Queen Elizabeth seated on a cream Coloured horse, held by a page. On the floor are some of the most attractive relics, as the Heading Block, on which the Lords Balmerino, Kilmarnock, and Lovat were decapitated on Tower Hill, in 1746; the Heading Axe, reported to be the one used in the execution of Anne Boleyn and the Earl of Essex although Hall, the chronicler, says that her head was struck off wit a sword); a wooden cannon used by Henry VIII. at the siege of Boulogne; two pieces of cannon presented to Charles II. when a child, to assist him in his military studies; and a piece, erroneously called Henry VIII.’s walking-staff, with which it is said he perambulated the streets of London, to see that his constables performed their duty. THE JEWEL HOUSE. On leaving the Horse Armoury on his wa ' ' . ' . , y to mspect the Coron atmn Regalia, the visitor passes near the place where formerlv stood the 266 ‘ i ' 5 LONDON. grand Storehouse, destroyed by the disastrous fire of 18-11, on the site of which the spacious Waterloo Barracks have since been erected. The Train of Artillery was on the ground floor of the building, and contained some extraordinary engines of war, immense numbers of cannon of the most curious shapes, taken from different parts of the world‘and many pieces of singular manufacture, cast in this country. Some of those articles, preserved from the fire, are now deposited in the White Tower and the Horse Armoury. Some of the larger and more interesting pieces of ordn ance are placed in front of the latter edifice. THE REGALIA ROOM. The Tower has been the depository of the Crown Jewels from the E reign of Henry IV, Originally kept in a small building, on theff south side of the White Tower, in the reign of Charles I. they were ‘: transferred to a strong dark room in the Martin Tower, near to the 7 Grand Storehouse, and where they remained until the destruction of f that building by fire, in 1841. The new Jewel House, in which the ' are now kept, was built in 1841 ; it is much better suited to the public convenience, and more in character with the importance of its con- tents. Here are preserved the coronation regalia, including the new imperial crown, and other emblems of royalty, used by the sovereigns of England at their coronation, the cost of which has been upwards of three millions of money. The crown worn by her present Majesty is valued at ONE MILLION STERLING. THE TOWER AND .THE ROYAL HOSPITALS. 267 THE WATERLOO BARRACKS Occupy the site of the small. armoury destroyed by the fire of 1841, and are immediately in front of the north face of the White Tower ; the first stone having been laid by the Duke of Wellington, June 14, 1845. They extend in a long front on either side of a central tower of massive proportions, the two wings being flanked by square towers of considerable strength, and are capable of accommodating a Whole regiment. The walls are built of roughly-faced Kentish rag, quoined at the angles with freestone, producing a very imposing effect; the style of architecture being that of the ordinary castellated, so suc- cessfully introduced into this country by William of Wykeham, in the reign of Henry III. ; has been dictated both by good taste and sound sense. Simplicity, strength, and grandeur, are architectural features most suitable in a building intended for the convenience of the military employed in the defence of a fortress, and which besides, is associated with other structures of similar character and purpose. The Tower, being a state prison, is under the government of an officer called the Constable of the Tower, who has under him a Lieutenant, Deputy-Lieutenant, Tower Major, and other officers ; the garrison is composed of a detachment of the Guards. _ Open daily (Sundays excepted), from ten till four o’clock. T1ckets to inspect the Armouries and the Regalia must be bought. at the Ticket Office on the right of the entrance. \Varders, wearing the dress of the yeomen of the guard, of the time of Henry VII}, accompany parties of not more than twelve every half-hour. .Admis- sion to the Armouries, \sixpence: to the Jewel House, slnpence. , Descriptive guide, Sixpence. The Tower Parade is open to v1s1tors on Sundays without charge. 268 LONDON. z . ‘—vv- a , . ' —. 3 l§\fi9_$azdtfli“ 1!. wag-@m-fig; .,._ __-._- . _, “Mum‘s first: s: q. GREENWICH HOSPITAL. “ Greenwich, with palace reared for kingly state, With walls majestic, courted by the wave, N ow destined to a nobler, holier fate— A nation’s haven for a nation’s brave.” There are few spots so replete with glorious recollections as Green- wich—the resting-place of science and of national prowess on the deep ocean. From hence is dated the longitude of a commercial world, among which the British empire extends interminable, beneath an unsetting sun. The Hospital is a noble and majestic edifice, founded in 1694, by King William III. and Queen Mary, for invalid seamen, and consists of four grand edifices, detached from each other, yet forming a very entire and beautiful plan. These buildings, which are respectively denominated King Charles’s, Queen Anne’s, King \Villiam’s, and Queen Mary’s, are disposed in the following manner: King Charles’s and Queen Anne’s buildings are situated to the north, or next to the river, from which they are separated by a spacious terrace, eight hun- dred and sixty-five feet in length : they have a grand area or square between them, two hundred and seventy-three feet wide, with a fine statue of George II., by Rysbrach, in the centre Beyond. to the south, stand the two other piles, having an interval between them consider- ably less than the grand square, being but one hundred and fifteen feet wide; the effect of this is to occasion an apparent connexion be- tween these portions of the edifice as seen from the river. The present establishment of Green wich Hospital consists of a master and governor, a lien ten an t- governor, four captains, and eight lieutenants, with a varie of officers of the hospital, two thousand seven hundred and ten pensroners, one hundred and sixty-eight nurses, and thir -two thousand out-pensioners. The number of persons residing withm the walls, including officers, &c., amounts to three thousand five hundred; the annual income of this noble institution is about £140,000. THE TOWER AND r1112: ROYAL HOSPITALS. 269 ~.- \ fl. a FEE. \ ._—_ \ "17$; . II; '— l u, “M mu THE HOSPITAL GATES. The grand entrance is by the west gate, formed by two stone pillars, with iron gates, adjoining which is the porters’ lodge, and a small guard room. Instruments of war are sculptured on the piers, which are surmounted by a terrestrial and celestial globe of the same material. They are placed obliquely in accordance with the latitude of their position. The Great, or Painted Hall is approached by a noble flight of steps; it was originally built for, and used as, a dining-hall b the inmates of the hospital, and contains three apartments :—the Vestibule, the Saloon, or Grand Hall, and the Upper Hall. The dimensions of this truly regal apartment are one hundred and six feet in length, fifty-six feet in width, and fifty feet‘ in height. Viewed from the vestibule, the scene is grand and inspiring ; the eye takes in the painted ceiling, the pictorial walls, and the marble floor: the painting of this hall was executed by Sir James Thornhill ; the herculean labour occupied him no less a period than nineteen years, he having commenced it in 1708, and completed it in 1727, at a cost of £6,685. The portraits are placed in seniority of rank, and the historical paintings arranged according to the date of action. Here are also statues of those great naval commanders—Nelson, Howe, Duncan, and St. Vincent; as also Sir Sidney Smith, Viscount Exmonth, and Lord de Saurnarez. Here it was that the body of Lord Nelson, placed in a magnificent outer-coffin, lay in state for three days, previous to its removal to its final resting-place, in the crypt of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Captam Chamier, in his charming biography of the immortal hero, thus feelingly expresses himself:——-—-'This was a most affecting scene. and as several of the crew of the ViCtOK‘y were present, added 3 deeper 270 lLozmou. interest to the spectacle ; I well remember it, and the expressions of sorrow from the many thousand spectators were truly heartfelt.” ——= \V ramififi'mm 1. «.m- " 31.3%? ' 11.22- W“! HH‘ "7‘ ._ b- , _ . . "2 _ .Timr ammufinmnfim - “WWW I: I u Nil ‘; THE CHAPEL, The entrance to which is by doors of solid mahogany, is ap- proached by an octangular vestibule. in which are four niches, containing statues of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Meekness. From this vestibule, the visitor ascends, by fourteen steps, to the interior of the chapel, which is a most beautiful specimen of Grecian architec- ture, and is from the designs of James Stuart, Esq., the well known Author of the “ Antiquities of Athens :” it is one hundred and eleven feet long, by fifty-two feet broad, and capable of conveniently accommodating fourteen hundred pensioners, nurses, and boys, ex- clusive of pews for the directors and the several officers. Among other ornaments of the interior, is a painting in Chiaroscuro, by Rebecca, of great beauty in outline and general effect. Over the altar is a fine painting of St. Paul’s Escape from Shipwreck, by W'est. It was first opened for Divine service September 30th, 1789; the former edifice having been destroyed by fire, January 2nd, 1770. THE Tower. AND THE ROYAL HOSPITALS. 271 In King Charles’s building there is a library for the .use of the pensioners, in which is placed a bust of Dibdin, whose sea songs are so well known. Over the library is King Charles’s Ward, which is open to public inspection. This is said to have been the ball-room, and library of that Monarch; is two hundred and forty-four feet in length and is considered the finest of the whole series. The dormi-a tories throughout the hospital are particularly clean and neat; in that- of King Charles’s Ward are deposited the remains of the hat worn by Nelson at Teneriffe, presented by William IV., and the silk stockings worn by him on the same occasion ; the donor remarking, that “ every relic of Nelson belonged to his country.” The hospital gates open at sunrise. The Painted Hall and Chapel are open every week-day from ten till seven o’clock during the summer months, and from ten till three o’clock in the winter; and on Sundays after Divine service in the morning. On Mondays and Fridays they are open free to the public, and on other days on payment of fourpence. , Soldiers and sailors are admitted free at all times. Clarke’s Hand- Boook Guide, threepence. THE ROYAL NAVAL ASYLUM Was originally commenced at Paddington, in 1801, but' removed in 1807 to-its present situation, near the entrance to Greenwich Park, and incorporated with the hospital in 1821. It is intended for the re- ception and education of eight hundred boys and two hundred girls, the children of seamen in the Royal Navy, and consists of an upper and lower school; the former being the sons of officers and seamen in the royal navy and marines, and m the merchant servicefi—receiving a practical education in navigation, and nautical astronomy; the latter consisting of the sons of seamen in the royal navy, or of non-com- missioned officers and privates of the royal marines,-—who are instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, and other useful information. There are convenient playgrounds for the boys, one of which is properly fitted for training them gymnastic exercises; in the centre being a model of a full-rigged ship,1ntended to instruct the pupils in nautical evolutions. The building consists of a centre connected with two wings by a colonnade of forty stone columns. The interiOr oi the central portion of this building is remarkable, having been commenced in 1613, by ' Anne of Denmark, and completed in 1635, by Queen Henrietta Maria, whose arms still adorn the ceiling of the room in which her son, Charles IL, was born, in 1630. This house, which was afterwards transformed into the Ranger’s Lodge, became the occasional residence of the Prime Minister, Pclham, from whom it derived the name of Pelham House. ‘ 272 LONDON. CHELSEA HOSPITAL Go with old Thames, view Chelsea’s glorlous pile, And ask the shattered hero whence his smile; Go view the splendid domes of Greenwich—go, And own what raptures from reflection flow. Hail ! noblest structures, imaged in the wave, A nation’s grateful tribute to the brave. Hail! blest retreat from war and shipwreck, hail ! That oft arrest the wandering stranger’s sail. Long have ye heard the narratives of age, The battle’s havoc and the tempest’s rage : Long have ye known reflection’s genial ray Gild the calm close of valour’s various day.——Ragers. This noble monument of national munificence and gratitude, owes its origin to the benevolent exertions of Sir Stephen Fox, ancestor of the late Lord Holland, who having persuaded Charles II. to purchase the old building of Chelsea College, from the Royal Society, to whom it had been presented by that monarch, and having induced the king to endow it with the sum of £5,000 per annum, the old buildings were razed, and the present appropriate and substantial structm‘e was erected in its stead, at a cost of £20,000. Sir Stephen also became an active friend and liberal benefactor to the establishment: the sale of the college and other arrangements were completed in the month of February, 1682, and the Royal Hospital for invalids in the land service was accordingly commenced, the first stone having been laid b the King in person, March 2nd, 1682, and the building com- pleted in 1692, in the reign of William and Mary. It is a noble structure, seven hundred and ninety feet in length, of a very appro- priate design, remarkable for the justness and harmonious proportions of its different parts; it is of red brick, with stone dressings, form- ing three sides of a quadrangle, and was built after the designs of Sir Christopher Wren, at a cost of £150,000. The number of in-pensioners is five hundred and thirty-nine, who must, except under special circumstances, be sixty years of age, and have passed twenty years in her Majesty’s service, before they are eligible for admission. They wear an uniform dress of red, lined with blue, are lodged and fed, and receive an allowance of eighteen- pence per week. The out-pensioners form an unlimited number, and are dispersed all over the three kingdoms, with liberty to exercise their various occupations, though liable to be called upon for garrison duty in the time of war. The centre of the building is embellished with a tetrastyle portico of the Roman Doric order, ornamented by a handsome lofty turret, in which is a clock. Under the portico are the principal entrances ; on one side is the chapel, the furniture and the plate, of which were given by James II. ; over the altar is a picture of the Ascension, by Sebastian Ricci: there is also an organ, the gift of Major Ingram. On the other side is the hall, where the pensioners dine. Both these apartments are paved with black and white marble. THE TOWER AND THE ROYAL HOSPITALS. 273‘ In the Chapel are preserved the eagles of Napoleon, captured at Barossa, Talavera, Salamanca, and Waterloo. In the Dining Hall, is a portrait of Charles IL, on horse-back, by Verrio and Henry Cooke, as also fragments of the standards won at Blenheim, from the proud Louis XIV., surnamed “the Great,” and a number of flags of all nations, captured by the British Army in various campaigns, down to the Chinese, with the dragon-banners. The grounds and gardens of the Hospital, with the centre walk of lime-trees, and terrace bounded by the Thames, commanding all the diversified attractions of that portion of the river, are open daily to the public, and form a very interesting promenade, especially during the summer season. THE ROYAL MILITARY ASYLUM, King’s Road, Chelsea, sometimes called the Duke of York’s School, with whom it originated. It is devoted to the education of children of both sexes, of the soldiers of ’ the regular army. There are gene- rally about seven hundred boys, who wear red jackets, blue trousers, &c., and about three hundred girls, who are habited in red gowns, blue petticoats, and straw bonnets. The building, which has nothing remarkable about it in an archi- tectural view, was built from the designs of John Sanders, Esq., the first stone being laid by the late Duke of York, June 19th, 1801, and the building completed in 1805. It is of brick, and forms three sides of a quadrangle; the centre consists of dining and school rooms, one of which is used as a chapel, and the wings are occupied as dormitories; that on the north side for the boys, and that on the south for the girls. The comfort and general healthy appearance of the children, and the playing of the juvenile band every fine evening in the summer, are very attractive and gratifying to the numerous company who promenade here. The establishment is conducted strictly, according to military discipiine. Friday is the best day for viewing the children parade, with their military band. Open from ten o’clock till four. Dinner- hour, one. l 1 . ‘ Lennon. - CHAPTER XVI. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. These are the memorials That renown our city. ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S HOSPITAL, On the east side of Smithfield, seems to have been the first establish- ment of the kind in London for relieving the diseased and maimed poor, it having been founded in 1102, by Rahere, the minstrel and poet of Henry I. It owes much to the munificence of Henry VIII., who endowed it, at the Reformation, with an annual revenue; and profits largely at times by the liberality of private benefactors. The buildings which form a spacious quadrangle, each side being detached from the other, and joined only by stone screens and gate- ways were erected from the designs of James Gibbs, Esq., the first stone having been laid June 9th, 1730. Each building is of Bath stone, with moulded designs to the windows, and a cornice and balus- trade to the top. Over the entrance next Smithfield, erected in 1702, is a statue of Henry VIII., the second founder, under which is inscribed “S'r. BARTHOLOMEW’S Hosrn'AL, FOUNDED m' RAHERE, an. 1102; Rnromnn BY HENRY VIII., an. 1546.” HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE Irsrirunoxs. 275 Over the ped-iment are two reclining figures, representing LAMENESS and SICKNESS, in imitation of Cibber’s fine recumbent statues of RAVING and MELANCHOLY MADNESS, formerly placed in front of Bethlehem Hospital. The entrance is conveniently arranged, and cleanliness, return- ing health and comfort pervade all its apartments. The Grand Stair- case was painted gratuitously by Hogarth, for which he was made a governor for life. The subjects are, the Good Samaritan, the Pool of Bethesda, Rahere, the Founder laying the foundation stone, and 8. Sick man carried on a bier, attended by monks. In the Great Hall is a full-length portrait of Henry VIII., and another of Dr. Radcliffe -, also a picture of St. Bartholomew, holding a knife, as a symbol of his martyrdom; and a fine portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds, of Percival Pott, Esq., many years surgeon to the hospital. In one of the win- dows is a painting on glass, of Henry VIII., delivering the charter of incorporation to the Lord Mayor. The annual income of this hospital averages £32,000. In the year 1848, 71,523 patients were relieved; including 5,826 in-patients, for the accommodation of whom there are 580 beds; 19,149 out-patients, and 46,598 casualty. . _ , Patients are received without limitation, and necessity is the only recommendation. Applications for admission are greatly facilitated by the readiness with which all information is given, to the poor, and their friends, at the secretary’s office, on the north side of the quad- rangle, nearest to Smithfield, and where the necessary petition may be had gratis. . Persons hurt by accident are admitted at any hour of the day 0 night, without previous recommendation, which it is indispensable, however, for applicants in all other cases to procure, before they can be examined or received. _ST. THOMAS’S HOSPITAL, High Street, Southwark. A hospital for sick and diseased poor per- sons, under the management of the Corporation of the City of ‘London. Etasblished in 1553. T ne present irregular pile of building, consists of three courts, having colonnades between each. The two wings, which are handsome stone edifices, were rebuilt upon the formation of the approaches to London-bridge. The Hospital now contains four hundred and twenty-eight beds, where patients are received under. regulations similar to those of St. Bartholomew’s Hospital. It is at present in very prosperous circumstances, the annual income averaging £25,000, and its benefit to the poor is incalculable. In 1849, the total number relieved was 59,710, of whom nearly 5,000 were in-patients. ‘ In the quadrangle facing High~strret, is a bronze statue of Edward VI. by Scheemakers; and in the third court a stone statue of Sir Robert Clayton, lord mayor of London. Day omdmission, Tuesday, at ten. 276 LONDON. GUY’S HOSPlTAL, St. Thomas’s Street, Southwark (contiguous to St. Thomas’s Hospital), is afoundation of the same sort, little inferior to it in extent, but more remarkable from the circumstance of it having been built and endowed by a single individual, Mr. Thomas Guy, a bookseller, who occupied the house, pulled down some years ago, which formed the angle between Cornbill and Lombard Street, in 1721 ; at the age of seven -six he commenced the erection of the present building, and lived to see it nearly completed. He bestowed the immense sum of £240,000 upon the erection and maintenance of this structure, and accordingly gave a larger sum than was ever left before in this kingdom by any one person for charitable purposes. The hospital consists of two quadranglcs, in addition to which are wings extending fi'om the front to the street: it was erected from de- signs by the elder Dance, at. a cost of £18, 793, and is approached by a spacious gateway opening to a square, in which is a statue of the benevolent founder in his livery gown, by Scheemakers ; on the pedes- tal is inscribed :— THOMAS GUY, SOLE FOUNDER OF THIS HOSPITAL, IN HIS LIFE TIME. A.D. MDCCXXI. In the Chapel is also placed a statue of the founder, by the elder Bacon. Sir Astley Cooper (d. 1841) was buried here. The annual income of this hospital, increased in 1820, by a legacy of £200,000 bequeathed by Mr. Hunt of Petersham, is now about £30,000, and the number of beds is 580. The average number of in-patients at one time, 500; and the entire annual average of patients is 50,000. Admission, on Wednesday morning, at ten o’clock. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 277 LONDON HOSPITAL, Whitechapel Road, south side. A spacious and convenient edifice, erected in 1759, in which many hundreds of suffering persons are annually relieved. Its contiguity to the.docks, where accidents are of such frequent occurrence, and the neighbourhood being densely popu- lated, renders it of primary importance to the eastern district of the metropolis. The number of patients admitted in the year 1849, was 4,185, of whom 2442 were cases of accident. The: out-patients during the same period were 28,614. The annual income amounts to £13,000 ; a sum insufficient to meet the necessary expenditure of this valuable in- stitution. ROYAL FREE HOSPITAL, Gray’s Inn Road. Founded in 1828, on a principle never before at- tempted, namely, that of making a hospital accessible, as far as its means would go, to every diseased and destitute person who should apply for succour at its doors, without any other recommendation than his necessities. The north wing contains two spacious and airy wards, the board-room and the counting—house. The south wing comprises one ward, the physicians’ and surgeons’ consulting rooms, with waiting rooms adjoining for the patients, and the dispensary, to which they proceed on getting their prescriptions from the medical gentlemen, and at once obtain their medicine. The annual income, derived wholly from voluntary contributions, averages nearly £5,000 per annum. The number of in-patients during 1849, was 667; out-patients 27,944, of which 856 were the result of accidents. In 1832, upwards of 700 cholera patients were admitted, when other hospitals were closed against them. CHARING CROSS HOSPITAL, Strand. Erected in 1831-2, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton, the first stone having been laid by the late Duke of Sussex, on the 15th September, 1831. It is in the Grecian style of architecture: the principal facade is one hundred and eighty feet in length, presenting a centre and two wings, with a range of seventeen windows towards Agar Street; the return elevations, towards Chandos and King William Streets, are each seven ty-two feet in length. Annual revenue about £2500. In one year (1849) the committee relieved upwards- of 9000 necessitous persons, of whom, although many were recommended by subscribers, much the greater part were admitted without any other recommendation than the sympathy which theirnecessities and suffer- ings excited; upwards of 1100 were admitted in one year within the wards. 'r 0"8 _ Lennon. :- 1"; il‘ ____. _~_—-.~_v _ - ...., . - ' 7. . _ _- wumumais. ~» ,_ ‘ .~ mammal-mm! F .;.. i llJllll‘i- m ‘ MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL, Charles Street, Berner’s Street, was instituted in 174 6, for the recep- tion of sick and lame patients, lying-in married women and the supplying of the indigent and laborious poor with advice, medicine, lodgings, and other necessaries, when afflicted with disease, or rendered hyacci‘dent incapable of supporting themselves or families; and further in 1792, through the munificence of J. \Vhitbread, Esq., a ward was fitted up for patients afflicted with cancer. The hospital is capable of containing upwards of three hundred patients, and the annual number of out-patients is 9316. Sir John Murray’s ward (so called from a legacy of £19.000 left for that purpose by Lady Murray) was built in 1848 by Mr. T. H. \' ryatt. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE HOSPITAL, Upper Gower Street, (in connection with University College). Founded in 1833, for the relief of poor sick, and maimed persons; for the delivery of poor married women; and for furthering the ob- jects of the College, by affording improved means of instruction in medicine'and surgery, to the medical students of the University, under the superintendenee of the professors. The first stone of the west wing, erected from the designs of Alfred Ainger, Esq., architect, was laid by Lord Brcugham, May 20th, 18116, and the number of beds is one hundred and twenty. The annual income avr rages £3,000: during 1849 there were admit- ted 1,634 zn-patients, and upwards of 18,0t0 out—patients were relieved. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS 279 KING’S COLLEGE HOSPITAL. Portugal Street, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, in connection With the medical school of King’s College. Founded in 1839, and supported by volun- tary subscriptions. The annual income averages £4,000 ; the number of beds being one hundred and twenty. During 1849, the number of in-patients amounted to 1,253, out-patients to 19,383. x w i- i . ,v 1 l I I. WESTMINSTER HOSPITAL, Broadway, “’estminster; instituted in 1719, for the relief of the sick and needy from all parts, and was the first in the kingdom, established and supported by voluntary contributions. The present handsome edifice was erected in 1834 from designs by Mr. Innwood, and conains accommodation for two hundred and thirty beds: patients are admitted by orders signed by a governor, cases of accident ex- cepted, which are admitted without recommendation at all hours of the day or night, and several beds are reserved for them. It is scarcely credible, so much as is done to provide additional hospital accommodation, that there should remain in this building, as many as three wards unfurnished and unoccupied, containing space for at least fifty beds; yet so it is, and has been for some years, al- though the committee stated, in their last report, that an additional annual sum of £1,5003vould be sufficient to render the increased bene- fits available. The present annual income is about £4,000, 'and the number of beds 174, which are always full, and in consequence, admission is often refused in very urgent cases : the number of in-patients during the year is 1891, and out-patients, 13,4179. T 2 280 LONDON. at... Wm “.E" ~. :5“ 2'? I '1le ' mm. 4 u l- :2 I! I '3‘: ; Air—vi _.' l: than! Ill-gift 1,] ST. GEORGE’S HOSPITAL, At the top of Grosvenor Place, Hyde Park Corner. Established in 1733, for the reception of sick and lame, and supported by voluntary contributions. It was rebuilt in 1827, from the designs of \V. Wil- kins, Esq., R. A., on the site of Lanesborough House ; converted into an infirmary in 1733. The principal front, which faces the Park, is two hundred feet in length, and has in its centre a vestibule thirty feet high, surmounted by lofty pilasters : the wings are one hundred and ninety feet in length. The entire edifice is faced with compo : it contains twenty-nine wards and one hundred and sixty beds. It has also a theatre for lectures capable of holding one hundred and fifty students, as also a museum of anatomical preparations adjoining thereto. Patients are admitted every “’ednesday, by note or re- commendation from a governor, and accidents at all times without. There is a fund, in connexion with this hospital, called St. George’s Charity, for convalescents. The annual expenditure is nearly £10,000, Whilst the income is only £7,000, a circumstance by no means creditable to the aristocratic and wealthy inhabitants of Belgravia, in which fashionable district it is situated. Here, in 1793, while attending ameeting of the board of governors, died, suddenly, of disease of the heart, John Hunter. the celebrated physician. ST. MARY’S HOSPITAL, Cambridge Place, Paddington. A commodious edifice erected in 1846. from designs by Mr. R. Hopper, who generously afforded his pio- fessional services gratuitously, the first stone having been laid by HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 281 Prince Albert, in June, 1845. It- is much to be regretted that from - want of adequate funds, the full benefits of this hospital are as yet unattainable by the inhabitants of the very populous district in which it is situated; it being the only institution of the kind in that rapidly increasing locality. That portion of the hospital now erected, after extreme exertions, during the last sex en years, to raise the necessary funds, is at length opened, and contains one hundred and fifty beds, for patients, as also the. board-room, the chapel, the operating theatre, and other principal departments required in a large hospital; the design being intended, when fully carried out, to have beds for four hundred patients. HOSPITAL FOR CONSUMPTION, and Diseases of the Chest, Brompton; and is. the only hospital in London, in which patients afflicted with that destructive and fre- quent complaint are received. The society was instituted in 1841, and the present beautiful and commodious edifice was opened in 1846. It is in the Tudor style, from designs by Mr. Frederic J. Francis, and has a centre and two wings, extending equally before and behind the building, in the form of a letter H. It is faced with red and blue bricks, in patterns, with Caen stone dressings. The first stone was laid in June, 1844, by His Royal Highness Prince Albert, and Her Majesty is an annual subscriber to its funds, which amount to £4000 per annum, derived wholly from voluntary contributions. The num- ber of iii-patients average 282, and out-patients, 2800. Attached to this hospital is a very beautiful chapel, founded by the Rev. Sir Henry Foulis Bart., by whom the foundation stone was laid, August 30th, 1849 ; consecrated by the Bishop of London, June 27th 1850. It is built of Kentish stone, with Caen stone dressings, and was erected from the designs of Mr. E. B. Lamb. ’lhe interior is especially adapted for the accommodation of the inmates of this ex— cellent institution. LONDON FEVER HOSPITAL, Liverpool Road, Islington (late Pancras Road). Instituted 1803. This fine edifice was opened in 1849, the old hospital having been removed to make room for the Station of the Great Northern Railway. The cost of the structure, £19,438 23. 9d., being sup- plied by the compensation vote of the Railway Board. The num- ber of beds is about 120, but only 714 in—patients were received during 1849. Poor persons are admitted gratuitously, but one guinea is charged to the parish for admitting a pauper, or to the mas- ter, for a domestic; the domestics of subscribers admitted gratuitously. The expenses are about £2,300 per annum; of which £4 50 is derived from dividends, £450 from voluntary contributions, and the remainder from parochial payments. "3542 LONDON. .E- III-Iltl-l—I—i my: ll run-(Ff;- J'.‘|.,It,_lj BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL, St. George’s Fields, Lambeth (so called from having been originally the Hospital of St. Mary of Bethlehem), is a royal foundation for the reception of lunatics, incorporated by Henry VIII. The present edifice was commenced in 1812, from designs by Mr. Lewis, and completed in 1815, at a cost of about £122,000, having been erected on this more eligible site in consequence of the improvements in Moorfields, by which the removal of the old hospital was demanded. Extensive additions and improvements were subsequently made in 1839, under the direction of Mr. Sidney Smirke, and the edifice now presents a grand front, six hundred and ninety seven feet long, composed of two wings and a noble portico, formed by a lofty range of Ionic pillars, supporting a handsome pediment, with a tympanum, containing in its centre the Royal Arms of the United Kingdom. The whole being crowned by a lofty dome. In the great hall under the portico are preserved the two celebrated statues of RAVING and MELANCIIOLY MADNESS, by Cains Gabriel Cibber, that were formerly on the gate-piers of the late hospital in Moorfields. The interior is judiciously fitted up, and is capable of accommo- dating upwards of four hundred inmates. “The way in which the comfort of the patients is studied,” says a recent writer, “by every person connected with the hospital, cannot be too highly commended. The women have pianos, and the men lxagatelle~tables, Sec. There are indeed few things to remind you that you are in a mad-house, beyond the bone-knives in use, and a few cells lined and floored Witll'COI‘k ~ and India-rubber.” Here have been confined all the most notorious criminal lunatics of recent times, among whom we may notice Peg Nicholson, who died in 1828, after a confinement of forty-two years, for attempting HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 283 to shoot King George III. in Drury Lane Theatre, in 1802. Jonathan Ma1 tin, for setting fire to Ymk Minster. Edmund Oxfmd, for thing at the Queen, on t:‘Constitution Hill, in 1840. Daniel McN 1utrhtei1, for shooting Mr. Edward D1ummond, at Charinflr Cross, in 1843, mistaking him for Sir Robert Peel. The two latter are still inmates, portraits z30f them may be seen at Madame Tussaud’s admirable exhibition. V 1sitors are not admitted without tickets, signed by one of the govei 11ers. Until the end of the last century, Bethlehem to1 med a pub— lic exhibition, and a common promenade, like the middle aisle of Old St. Paul’s. ST. LUKE’S HOSPITAL, 'Old Street, City Road. Oiiginally established, by voluntary cont1 1- butions, for the reception of lunatics, and was intended both as an aid and an improvement upon what Bethlehem Hospital then was. The first hospital was e1ected in 1751, at a place called Windmill Hill, on the 1101th side of Uppe1'1Moorfields.’l‘he present well-pio- portioned edifice was completed 111 1786, f1 om designs by the younger Mr. Dance, at a cost of £55,000, the first stone having been laid on the 20th of July, 1782. It is a stone and brick building, foul hun- dred and ninety-three feet 1n length, having three stories, exclusive of the basement floor, and attics at the extremities, which we elevated above the Other parts of the building. On each side in all the stories are long spacious galleries, having rooms on both sides; the western galleries are for the women, and the eastein for the men. The day rooms are large and airy, and the internal an angemeuts are most admirably contrived. There eare two 284 LONDON. spacious gardens for recreation and exercise, and everything is done for the unhappy inmates which kindness and humanity can suggest. There are few buildings in the metropolis, perhaps in Europe, that, considering the poverty of the material—common English clamp bricks—possess such harmony of proportion, with unity and appro- priateness of style, as this building. It is as characteristic of its uses as that of Newgate, by the same architect. The annual income of the hospital is about £9,000. There is accommodation for about two hundred and sixty inmates. No person is received as a patient who is known to possess means for decent support in a private asylum, or who has been a lunatic for more than twelve calendar months. FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, Guildford Street. This valuable institution, for the maintenance and education of exposed young children, originated with Captain Thomas Comm, a native of Lyme Regis, in consequence of his having, in his walk from his residence, near “rapping, into the city, to his business, frequently seen “young children exposed, sometimes alive, sometimes dead, sometimes dying, which affected him extremely ; ” a lamentable picture of the outskirts of the metropolis, and the de- fective state of the police, during the first half of the last century. The benevolent design of the founder was promulgated in 1772, and he soon found many willing to co-operate with him ; amongst others, Hogarth eagerly took up the plan. He designed the headpiece to the power of attorney authorising the governorss to solicit contribution; presented his admirable picture, “The March to Finchley,” and his scriptural subject, “ Moses and Pharoah’s Daughter; ” and even took under his immediate superintendence some of the children who were put to nurse at Chiswick. And Handel, who, on the occasion of the HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 285 erection of the Chapel offered to conduct a. performance of vocal and instrumental music, by which more than £500 were obtained; and allowed the annual performance of his “ Messiah,” by which was realised nearly £7000. The present buildings were erected some years after the obtaining of the Charter, in 1739, from designs by Theodore Jacobson, the architect of the Gosport Royal Hospital, and contain accommodation for about four hundred children of each sex, together with a good garden and play-ground for their use. The present annual in- come is £9,755, and the number of children succoured by the hospital, averages five hundred, who are placed out to nurse in the country, whilst infants, and afterwards brought to the hospital in London, where they are maintained until fifteen years of age. The general average annual admissions are forty-four. The chapel of the hospital is a source of great attraction With the public. owing to the efficient services of the choir, aided by the ad- mirable singing of the children. The chaplain is the Rev. J. Forshall, M.A.; morning preacher, the Rev. J. W. Gleadall, M.A.; and after- noon preacher, the Rev. Edward Scobell, 'M.A. There is an altar- piece, by West, “ Christ blessing little Children.” Divine service is performed every Sunday, at eleven in the forenoon, and three in the afternoon; and is open to strangers, Who are, however, expected to contribute at the doors something towards the funds of the charity. There is no service in the evening. The interior of the hospital may be seen_on Sundays and Mondays, in the middle of the day. CHRIST’S HOSPITAL, Newgate Street, commonly known as the Blue Coat School, was founded by Edward VI., in 1533, and nobly endowed with revenues arising from lands and tenements, for the maintenance and education of friendleSs children, “to be virtuously brought up, and fitted for trades.” The establishment, at that time, consisted of a grammar school for boys, and a separate school for girls, who were taught to read, sew, and mark. In 1672, Charles II. founded a mathematical school and ward, for the instruction of forty boys in the mathematics and navigation, and endowed it with £1,000 per annum, to be paid out of the Exchequer for seven years. These scholars, called King’s boys, are distinguished by their wearing a. badge upon their right shoulders, ten of whom are required, annually, to enter the sea servxce. Another mathematical school, now joined to the preceding, was after- wards founded by Mr. Travers, for thirty-seven boys. . The buildings which form the hospital, are extensive, but irregular, and have been erected at various times : they consist of the great hall, the mathematical and grammar schools, the writing school, the dor- mitories, and the residences of the masters and assistants, and apart- ments for the nurses. 286 LONDON. THE DINING HALL, The new and beautiful Hall, facing Newgate Street, was erected in 1829, from the designs of the late J. Shaw, Esq. : it is in the Tudor style of architecture, and is raised upon an arcade of flat pointed arches, each end being flanked by two large and lofty octagonal turrets, finished on the top with points and embrasures. The interior of this, the second largest room in the metropolis, has a gallery at either end : the eastern one containing an 01 gan, on each side of which, is a small window filled with stained glass. In the hall are several pictures, of great interest, amongst which may be noticed Edward VI., granting the charter to the hospital, attributed to Holbein: a full-length portrait of Charles II. by Ver1 i0; a large picture by the same artist, of James II receiving the mathematical pupils: Brook \Vatson, (afterwards lord mayor) when a boy, attacked by a shark, by J. S. Copley ; and full-length portraits of Her Majesty and His Royal Highness Prince Albert, by F. Grant, A.R.A. The public suppers are held in the Great Hall, on Sundays between Christmas and Easter, and commence at six o’clock. Three tables are covered with neat cloths, wooden platters, little wooden buckets of beer, with bread and butter. The ceremony begins with three strokes of a mallet, producing the most profound silence. One of the seniors having ascended the pulpit, reads a chapter from the bible; and du- ring prayers, the boys stand, and the AMEN, pronounced by such a number of voices, has a striking effect. A hymn sung by the whole youthful assembly, accompanied by the organ, concludes this part of the solemnity. At the conclusion of the Whole, the doors of the wards are thrown open, and the boys pass from the company in procession; first the nurse, then a boy carrying two lighted candles; others with bread-baskets and trays, and the remainder, two by two, who all make obeisance as they pass. Tickets for admission, on these occasions, may be obtained at the hospital, without difficulty. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 237 The number of children on the foundation, who are wholly main- tained and educated, varies from fourteen hundred to fifteen hundred, including those of the branch establishment at Hertford (founded 1683), for the more youthful members. About 200 boys are admitted annually, from seven to ten years of age, remaining until they are fifteen ; mathematical boys and deputy Grecians remain at the school until they are sixteen. Twelve boys, called Grecians, remain until they are nineteen or twenty years of age, four of whom” are then annually sent to Oxford or Cambridge Universities, to which this hospital has sixteen presentations, as also a Pitt and, Times scholar- ships, for four years. On St. Matthew’s day, the Grecians deliver orations before the lord mayor, aldermen, and governors, to hear which, admission may be obtained by tickets from a governor. On Easter Monday, the boys pay an annual visit to the Royal Exchange, and on Easter Tuesday, to the lord mayor, at the Man- sion House. The annual income is necessarily a very large one, amounting from all sources to £60,000, from which about £9000 being deducted for rent and other charges, a clear nett amount available for the general purposes of the establishment, maintenance, and education, is left of upwards of £50,000. On the front of the writing school, is a statue of Sir John Moore, lord mayor, by whom it was founded, in 1694. and at either end of the mathematical school, are statues of Edward VI. and Charles II. THE CHARTER HOUSE, (A corruption of Chartreuse), Charter House Square, Aldersgate Street; a collegiate asylum for the aged, and one of the principal foundation schools in the metropolis, was founded by Thomas Sutton, a city mer- chant, June 22nd, 1611, on the site of an ancient convent of Car- thusian monks, suppressed by Henry VIII., in 1538. The site having been purchased by Sutton, from the Earl of Suffolk, for £13, 000, he erected the buildings at a: further cost of £7,000, and endowed the establishment with lands of the annual value of £4,500, and £60,000 in ready money. The buildings which form the Charter House, are extensive, and have a venerable appearance. The grand hall is a noble apartment, having an arched roof of open carved work, of the period of Eliza- beth. A spacious music gallery at the ind communicates with the elaborately carved grand staircase, leading to fire court, or governor’s room, one of the few remains of the time of its foundation ; it is still magnificent and venerable, though that bane of taste and antiquities —-—the whitewash-brush—has destroyed the emblazoned arms with which it was once decorated. It is lighted by three windows, con- taining Mr. Sutton’s arms, in stained glass, with the date 1614. The walls are covered with tapestry, now much faded; the elaborately carved chimney-piece is divided into panels, by columns of the Ionic, Tuscan, and Grecian orders, containing paintings of Mars and Minerva, the Annunciation, and the Last Supper ; the arms of the founder, and of James I. This apartment is now only used for the celebration of the foundation, which anniversary festival takes place on December the 12th. Adjoining is the library, containing many scarce and valu- able works, principally presented by Mr. \Vray, a portrait of whom is suspended over the fire-place. The boys’ apartments consist of a handsome room, and a large dining-hall. Over these are the dormitories, the assistants’ chambers, and the monitors’ studios. The chapel is nearly square, and is divided into north and south aisles, by four pillars of the Tuscan order. Over the entrance is a richly carved gallery, bearing date 1612, containing an organ ; there are numerous tablets and monuments, amongs the most interesting of which is the cenotaph of the founder (who died the 12th of December, 1611), by Nicholas Stone and Jansen. The annual revenue of this establishment amounts to about £6000. Eighty pensioners are maintained in handsome separate apartments, living in the collegiate style, having all necessaries found them, and an allowance of £14 per annum. and a cloak, in lieu of clothing. The nomination lies in the governors, in rotation. There are also forty-four boys, at present, on the foundation, who are admitted between the ages of ten and fourteen, in the same man- ner as the pensioners, and supported free of expense. There are several exhibitions to the universities, varying in value from £20 to £100 per annum. The play-ground is three acres in extent, for the use of the scholars. Amongst the distinguished men who have re- ceived their education here may be named Dr. Isaac Barrow; Black- stone, author of the commentaries: Addison and Steele, who were scholars together; the Rev. John \Vesley; Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A.; .and ‘V. M. Thackeray. ST. KATHERINE’S HOSPITAL, On the east. side of Regent’s Park. Erected in 1826, from designs by A. Poynter, Esq. The buildings are of white brick, in the pointed ‘style of architecture, and consist of two ranges, each forming three houses, for the brethren and sisters. In the centre, but detached, is 'the collegiate church, consisting of a nave and aisles, containing the curious pulpit, monuments, &c., brought. hither on the destruction of the ancient hospital, at the formation of St. Katherine’s Docks. On the opposite side of the road is a villa, the residence of the master, having pleasure-grounds attached, two acres in extent. . The ancient hospital was founded by Matilda, queen of Stephen. in 11-15, re-founded by Elinor, queen of Edward I., in 1273 and en- larged by Philippa, queen of Edward III. The office of master is the only piece of preferment in the gift of the Queens Consort or Dowager of England. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 2893 CA LEDONIAN ASYLUM, Copenhagen Fields, Islington ; incorporated 1815. This handsome structure was erected in 1827-8, from the designs of Mr. George Tappen; the foundation stone having been laid by His Royal High- ness the late Duke of Sussex, in grand masonic form, on the 27th, of May; and the present building, which is, however, but the centre of the original design, was completed in October following. The Caledonian Asylum was instituted for “ supporting and educating the children of soldiers, sailors, and marines, natives of Scotland, who have died, or been disabled in the service of their country; and of in- digent Scotch parents, resident in London, not entitled to parochial relief. ” The present number in the Asylum is seventy-two boys, and forty-two girls. The children are admitted from the age of seven to ten years,‘ and are retained until they have attained the age of four- teen, when they are apprenticed to trades, or otherwise disposed of according to circumstances. The boys’ military band is a justly-admired one, and is often rendered available for the festivals of kindred institutions. SCHOOL FOR THE INDIGENT BLIND, St. George’s Fields; instituted 1799, an admirable establishment, where youth of both sexes, afflicted with one of the most painful privations to which our nature is liable, are humanely and ingeni- ously educated, and taught to earn their own subsistence. The present buildings, which are of white brick, with stone dress- ings, were commenced in April 1834, and were erected from designs by Mr. J. Newman; they form an exceedingly pleasing composition, in the Tudor, or Domestic Gothic style. The north front, chiefly remark- able for its regularity and great extent, produces an agreable impression, whilst the more highly ornamented entrance front, from its oblique position, with regard to the longer line of building, has a novel and striking appearance. The annual income is about £6,000. The number of pupils has been gradually increased from fifteen males, to eighty-five males, and eighty—six females, and a manufactory has been established ; the pro- duce of the articles sold, the work of the inmates, during 1849, was £1291. 11s. 2d. The inmates may be seen at work every day, except Saturday and Sunday, between ten and twelve in the forenoon, and between two and five in the afternoon. In addition to the above valuable institution, there are Several other societies, having for their object the education and instruction _of the blind; and by means of whose exertions, the painful deprivation of a very large number of sufferers is greatly ameliorated. 290 LONDon THE LYING-IN HOSPITALS Are five in number, all affording relief to such poor women as can- not afford the charge of procuring proper assistance at home. In connection with these admirable institutions, it is highly interesting to learn from their reports, that the deaths have decreased in average amongst their patients, from one in fifty, to one in three hundred, with mothers ; and from one in twenty, to one in eighty, amongst the children, during the last eighty or ninety years; a result attributable to the superior medical science, and increasing care bestowed upon .the inmates. THE BRITISH LYING-IN HOSPITAL, Endell Street, Long Acre. In- stituted in 1749, and was the first established in London. It was rebuilt in 1849, at a cost Of about £6,000, and is capable of receiving forty patients. Since the foundation, upwards of 40,000 persons have participated in its benefits. It is exclusively for the reception, or treatment, of married women. CITY OF LONDON LYING-IN HOSPITAL, corner of Old Street, City Road. Instituted in 1750, at Shai‘tesbury House, Aldersgate Street, and removed from thence to its present site in 1773. The annual number of women delivered at this hospital is about five hundred and fifty; and the whole number since its establishment, has been up- wards of thirty-nine thousand. QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S LYING-IN HOSPITAL, Manor House, Lisson Grove, Marylebone. Instituted in 1752. “'ith a view to facilitate repentance, and to remove every motive for acts which conscious guilt excites in the minds of many unlawful mothers, this hospital admits penitents once, but in no instance are they received a second time. The average annual treatment within the hospital is two hundred and forty, and since its foundation, nearly fifty-seven thousand women have partakcn of its benefits. GENERAL LYING-IN HOSPITAL, York Road, Lambeth. Instituted in 1765, rebuilt on its present site in 1825, and incorporated in 1830. The benefits of this charity are also extended to such single women as can produce satisfactory testimony of previous good conduct, and who, on diligent enquiry, appear to the committee to be objects of real commiseration, an indulgence, however, strictly confined to the first instance of misconduct. QUEEN ADELAIDE’S LYING-IN HOSPITAL, Queen Street, Golden Square. Established in 1824, as the Middlesex Dispensary, and in 1835, as a lying-in hospital. During the past year, there were about one thousand cases, not one of which terminated fatally. The annual average Of cases is about that number. In addition to the above hospitals, there are numerous institutions for delivering poor married women at their own homes, which by their unostentatious benevolence, render great service to thousands of industrious women in their hour of sorrow, and are well deserving of the benevolence of the charitable. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONSH 29.1 DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM, Kent Road. Instituted in 1792, for the support and education of in- digent deaf and dumb children. No child is eligible under the age of eight and a half, nor above eleven and a half. Open to inspection daily, Sundays excepted. The most convenient time is from eleven to one o’clock. THE MAGDALEN, Blackfriar’s Road ; for the reception and reformation of erring fe- males, who, if they behave well, are never dismissed from it, until provided with the means of obtaining a reputable livelihood. The number of inmates avereges one hundred and fifty. A resident chap- lain is attached to this institution, which has a neat chapel Within its Walls. The singing of the inmates render the services very attractive. Morning service commences at a quarter past eleven, evening at seven. LONDON FEMALE PENITENTIARY, Pentonville. An institution similar in its nature to the preceding. During the year 1845-6, the sum of £1,150 4s. 10d. was received for washing and needlework, done by the inmates of this establish- ment, many of whom had become qualified to earn a respectable maintenance, on leaving the asylum. ' FEMALE ORPHAN ASYLUM, Westminster Road, owes its existence to the zeal and judicious conduct of the celebrated Sir John Fielding. It was instituted in 1758, and is an admirable charity for friendless and deserted girls un- der twelve years of age, who attend the chapel on Sundays, and Whose neat and cleanly dress, coupled with their healthful and happy ap- pearance, form a most interesting sight to a feeling mind. LONDON OPTHALMIC HOSPITAL, Moorfields. Instituted in 1804, by a Mr. Sanders, and removed to this place in 1821. It is a valuable institution for the relief and cure of that dreadful calamity—blindness, and since its institutition, nearly 200,000 patients have been under the care of its medical officers. Many of the above charities being supported by voluntary sub- scriptions, we earnestly recommend them to the reader’s benevolence. 292 LONDON. CHAPTER XVII. EXETER HALL AND THE MAY MEETINGS. St. Stephen’s is not better known as the seat of legislation than Exetet Hall as the recognised temple of modern philanthropy. The associations con- nected with it are peculiarly characteristic of an age which in many respects is marked and distinct from all other eras in the history of the national manners. and which had scarcely exhibited any of its phases half a century age—Plait. EXETER HALL, Strand. A spacious edifice erected in 1831, from designs by Mr. J. P. Gandy Deering, at a cost of £30,000, on the site of Exeter Change, and devoted almost exclusively to the uses of religious and benevolent societies, especially for their anniversary meetings. The frontage to the Strand is very narrow, the exterior simply consisting of a lofty portico, formed of two handsome Corinthian pillars, with a flight of steps from the street to the hall door. The great hall, on the upper floor of the building, is ninety feet broad, one hundred and thirty—eight feet in length, forty-eight feet in height, having an arched roof for the conveyance of sound, and is lighted by seventeen large windows. It will accommodate three thousand persons with comfort, and four thousand may be crowded within its walls. The platform is at the east end, and will accom- modate seven hundred persons; it is fenced from the audience portion of the hall by a light railing. The platform has been modelled with a view to the accommodation and display of the orchestra and chorus of the Sacred Harmonic Society, and the London Sacred Harmonic. Society, whose concerts take place here, when the sublime composi- tions of Handel, Haydn, Mozart, Mendelssohn, and other eminent composers, are given, by a body of seven hundred vocal and instru- mental performers, in a style of unapproachable excellence. In the centre of the orchestra is placed one of the finest organs in the world, built by \Valkcr. Beneath the great hall is a smaller one, in which are held meetings of a more limited character than those for which the upper hall is suitable ; there are likewise numerous rooms appropriated to the use EXETER HALL AND THE MAY MEETINGS. 293 of societies and committees. Sometimes there are meetings in both halls at the same time; and a speaker, in the lower room, will occa- sionally be annoyed by the reverberation of the thunders of applause, brought down by the eloquence of a M’cNeile, or a Montgomery, shaking the large room above him. AMERIC ,MEDICENE 373.STRAND THE ENTRANCE FRONT. Only societies of a religious, or moral nature are allowed the use of Exeter Hall. From the latter end of April to the conclusion of May, is the great season for the annual assemblage of the numerous religious and philanthropic bodies, who make Exeter Hall their head quarters, and whose noble exertions give more lustre to the English nation than the triumphs of her victorious armies, her vast and still accumulating wealth, the extending sphere of her commerce, or the great extent of her boundless dominions. The speakers, on these oc- casions, are no less varied in their characteristics, than are the someties on whose account they appear. ‘ . _ . The crowds which constantly assemble at the door of tnis edifice, on the occasion of a great public meeting, or a popular concert render the houses in the immediate neighbourhood, particulaily 'aluable for business purposes; the one to the west of like entrance, is in the occupation of Messrs. Pomeroy, Andrews and Co., the Sole Proprietorsof the celebrated Old Dr. Jacob Townsend’s American Sarsaparilla. The elegant and tasteful manner in which this estab- lishment is decorated, is peculiarly novel and effective, and cannot fail to attract the notice of the visitor as he passes by on his way to Exeter. Hall. FREEMASONS’ HALL, Freemasons’ Tavern, 62, Great Queen Street. The fine Hall of the Freemasons’ Tavern, erected in 1780, from designs by T. Sandby, R.A., is known throughout the world, from its associations with some of the greatest and grandest societies, whose magnificent operations have marked the present century as an era in the history of the world. Here, crowded and excited auditories have listened, in breathless silence, broken at intervals by tumultuous applause, to eloquent voices, pleading the cause of religion, or charity ; here, for a series of years, were held those ever-memorable meetings, having for their aim, and resulting in the full accomplishment of its object—the freedom of the slave: and here, in the spring-tide of their success, have been an- nounced the details of operations carried on by voluntary associations, on a scale unknown before. Since the erection of Exeter Hall, in 1829, the meetings of the, (strictly speaking) religious societies have been held in that edifice, but, Freemasons’ Hall, still continues to be used for the anniversary dinners of numerous benevolent and charitable institutions. In the Hall, which is decorated with masonic emblems, are placed portraits of the following Grand Masters: George IV.; their Royal Highnesses the Dukes of Cumberland, Kent, and Sussex; and Lord Zetland; on the east and west sides, are portraits of the Duke 01 Manchester; Lord Petrie ; Marquis of Hastings; and the Duke of Athol. In a recess, at the south end, is placed a noble statue, seven feet six inches in height, of His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, by E. H. Baily, RA. BRITISH AND FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY, 10, Earl Street, Blackfriars. Established in 1804. Its object is, ex- clusively, to promote the circulation of the authorised version of the scriptures, at home and abroad. Its auxiliary societies, branch so- cieties, and associations, extend to every quarter of the globe. During the forty-six years of its existence, this society has circulated more than twenty-three millions nine hundred and seventy-three thousand copies of the scriptures; and expended above £3,550,000 sterling. Its annual income, in 1849, was £91,623. The annual meetings of this the most catholic in its operations, and supporters, of any religious society, are held in Exeter Hall. EXETER HALL AND THE MAY MEETINGS. _ CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street. Established in 1800. This society is conducted in strict conformity with the constitution and practice of the Church of England, and its missionaries are under the superin- tendence of the bishop of the diocese Where they may be placed. The society has stations in Africa, the Mediterranean, India, China, New Zealand, the \Vest Indies, and North America. The annual income, derived from all sources, for the year ending March, 1850, was £104,270. The general annual meeting is held at Exeter Hall, on the first Tuesday in May. l I .. “III." . |.. _'» ........................ I b -. @2 I givmuuuuw "'II‘IIIIII ‘I :III:~::H4——r-‘ Hi I I .- _ ._.~' It LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY, Mission House, 8, Blomfield Street, Finsbury. Established in 1791: its sole object being to spread the knowledge of the Gospel in heathen and unenlightened lands. One of its fundamental principles is, that it shall “ not send any form of church order and government, but; that it shall be left to persons to assume for themselves such form of church government, as shall appear to them most agreeable to the \Vord of God.” The annual expenditure for the purposes of the so- ciety is about £70,000, derived from dividends, or obtained by volun- tary contributions. Its annual meetings are held in Exeter Hail, and are exceedingly interesting; the hall is invariably crowded long before the commencement of the proceedings, and many ladies may be seen at the doors as early as seven o’clock in the morning, waiting for their opening at eleven. chi/U ll‘ll‘ ll‘ In. BRITISH AND FOREIGN SCHOOL SOCIETY, Borough Road; for the support and training of young persons, upon the Landastrian system, to supply teachers to such places, at home and abroad, as desire to establish schools on that system, now called British Schools. It is a handsome and substantial edifice, erected from the designs of Samuel Robinson, Esq., consisting of a centre and two wings: the centre is appropriated for the residence of the master and mistress, committee, and board rooms; and the wings con- tain spacious school rooms for children of both sexes, and of all religious denominations, for instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic, and needlework; every child is expected to attend regularly the place of worship to which its parents repair. Its income is about £11,500 per annum, of which only half is de- rived from voluntary subscriptions, and the remainder from the sale of publications. An annual subscription of one guinea, or a donation of ten guineas constitutes a membership. 2;; ‘ I'r \ T."Tii5‘ s "V?“ ’V! _-_‘__ 6 m sags! ~ ~ .- m we . 4235—: “ “'HI ",3!" ’ 3‘: \ In I L if '1 C " l m . :12“: -. . -MISS|ON House..Ao.Iasq. i*-"'%"§h—s-- ;.vq' - ..\ WESLEYAN CENTENARY HALL, Or Mission House, Bishopsgate Street \Vithin, facing Thrcadnecdic Street. Erected in 1839, from designs by Mr. W'. '1‘. Pocock, who completely remodelled the building formerly known as the City of London Tavern, for the purposes to which they are appropriated. It has an. imposing facade, with little aim at novelty in the des1gn. EXETER HALL AND THE MAY MEETINGS. 297 The Foreign Missions, in connection with the \Vesleyan Methodist body, were commenced in 1786, under the auspices of the Rev. John Wesley, and the Rev. Dr. Coke, but the society was not. organised on its present systematic and efficient plan until 1815. The total an- nual income accruing to the society from all sources, for 1849, was £111,685. It has numerous missionary stations in Australia, Poly- nesia, southern and western Africa, the West Indies, and the British dominions in North America. _-.—_=.—_-—.7“‘_._ , , DDJMJQLI—Lés - ,l"-=-m1EIlm_e : - r’ _—-— - ——__’1>"m~?-_’r; ....,x . r _._ ~ ~ - rmlssicuu.’ ,.. :2?- _.-- fimfxbvf‘N , a BAPTIST MISSION HOUSE, 33, Moorgate Street; a recessed building, in the Italian style, having a very neat and pleasing elevation. The Baptiss Missionary Society was founded in 1792, and is en- tirely supported by voluntary contributions. Its income in 1849, was £19,936, with Wthh it supports agents in Europe, Asia, Africa, and America. The present number of stations, maintained by it, are two hundred and thirty-two, of which seventy-nine are situated in the Island of Jamaica. ROYAL HUMANE SOCIETY, 3, Trafalgar Square. This excellent institution, established in 1774, has for its object, “to collect and circulate the most approved methods for the recovery of persons apparently drowned, or dead from any other cause; and to suggest and provide suitable apparatus for the preservation, and restoration of life.” The ornamental waters of the parks—especially Hyde Park—give abundant opportunities for testing the usefulness of the-objects for which the m‘émbers are so laudably associated. Here, in the heat of summer, or in the cold of winter, death is perpetually dogging the heels of pleasure. In summer the bather may be surprised at the idea of danger in the Serpentine, and be half inclined to laugh at the prompt- attendance, and watchful care of the servants of the Royal Humane Society, but let him venture into the “region of cold springs,” and he runs the risk of being instantly paralysed, and may be com- pelled to acknowledge the value of the voluntary services, which the instant before he despised. But the greater number of accidents happen in winter, when, if but the thinnest crust of ice cover the water, instantly thousands crowd to the parks, to disport in skating, and scarcely any warning can check their mad enthusiasm. The Society has eighteen receiving-houses in the metropolis, the principal of which, a neat and tasteful classic building, is on the north side of the Serpentine, and was erected from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton, the first stone having been laid by His Grace the Duke of Wellington, in 1834. _ The annual income, principally arising from voluntary contribu- tions, is £1,800. RAGGED SCHOOL UNION, 15, Exeter Hall, for the support of free schools for the destitute poor of London and its suburbs. This excellent society, instituted in 18-14, has, in connection with it, nearly one hundred schools in and near the metropolis, containing upwards of nine thousand scholars, taken from the lowest and most degraded class of the population. The annual receipts of the Union, wholly derived from voluntary contributions, is about £4,000. One of the principal establishments, in connection with this society, is the FIELD LANE RAGGED SCHOOL, Corner of \V est Street, Victoria Street, Holborn Hill; instituted in 1841, the neighbourhood being one of the most wretched and de- moralized in London. It is open daily, for children under twelve years of age; on Monday, ’Wednesday, and Thursday evenings, for adult males; and on Tuesday evenings, an adult school and indus- trial class for females. More than twelve hundred children and adults have been admitted in a year. On Friday evening and Sunday after- noon, the school is open for religious instruction exclusively. The annual contributions amount to about £300. In connection with this school is a Refuge, at 11, John’s Court, \Vest Street, where tailors’ and shoemakers’ industrial classes are held on the evenings of Monday and lVednesday. .———-—— EDUCATIONAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. 299 CHAPTER XVIII. EDUCATIONAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. “ How numerous are the societies, institutions, and libraries, public, pro- prietary, and subscriptionary, yet comparatively, little known, even to those who reside close to them. The advantages afforded by them are little un- ' derstood, and for want of more extended information, very many, who would otherwise willingly seek them, are eXCluded from their benefits.” ‘ —_ UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, Upper Gower Street. Erected from the designs of William Wilkins, Esq. RA. : the first stone having been laid April 30th, 1827, by the Duke of Sussex, and the hall opened for the delivery of lectures, Oc— tober the lst, 1828. It is a noble building, of the Grecian order of architecture, four hundred and twenty feet in length, and nearly two hundred feet in depth. The elevation is at once classical and ele- gant, having in the centre a handsome portico of the Corinthian order, elevated on a plinth to the height of the first story (nineteen feet), approached by numerous steps, well arranged for effect. The 300 LONDON. pediment is supported by twelve Corinthian columns, and in the tym- panum is an allegorical has-relief. Behind the pediment is a cupola, finished by a lantern light, in imitation of a Grecian Temple, crown- ing a grand octagon saloon. North of this is the Museum of Natural History, one hundred and eighteen feet in length ; corresponding with it, on the south, is the library, of the same dimensions, a smaller library, and rooms for the librarian. The building also contains six spacious lecture rooms, two theatres, several rooms for the professors, a laboratory, museum of materia medica, an anatomical museum, the great hall, ninety feet by forty- five, intended for public examinations ; two Cloisters, for the exercise of the pupils, during the intervals of lecture, one hundred and seven feet by twenty—three; refreshment rooms, and residences for the stew- ard and housekeeper. In the grand saloon are preserved the original models of the prin- cipal works of John F laxman, R.A., the greatest of English sculptors. The College was established through the great exertions of the late Thomas Campbell, the poet, and Lord Brougham, its president, and is a proprietary institution, for the general advacement of litera- ture and science, by affording young men adequate opportunities for obtaining literary and scientific education at a moderate expense.” The education includes all branches except theology. The plan com- prehends public lectures, with examinations by the various professors, who derive their incomes principally from the fees paid by the students. By their charter, the college is empowered to grant “ degrees,” under the common seal, except in divinity. —-—— UNIVERSITY HALL, Gordon Square. A handsome collegiate building, erected in 1849, from designs by Professor Donaldson, at a cost of about £10,000, ex- clusive of the houses intended to appear as wings. It is intended for the reception of students generally, and is now tenanted by a prin- cipal, vice-principal, and a moderate number of students of University College. Theology excluded by the rules of the College, will here form the subject of lectures, with other means of instruction. UNIVERSITY OF LONDON, Somerset House. A government institution, established in 1837, for conferring degrees, after careful examinations, on students educated at institutions in cbnnection with the University—as University College, King’s College, Highbury College, and others situated in various parts of the kingdom. Chancellor, the Right Honourable the Earl of Burlington EDUCATIONAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS 301 KlNG’S COLLEGE East wing of Somerset House, Strand, was incorporated in 1829, and opened October the 8th, 1831. It was erected from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, and forms the entire east wing of Somerset House, which has so long remained in an unfinished state. The entrance is a neat, though confined semicircular archway from the Strand, over which is placed the Royal Arms, supported by figures symbolical of Wisdom and Holiness, With the motto, Senate et Sapienter. The building extends from the Strand to the Thames, and occupies an area of between fifty and sixty thousand feet, the western front is three hundred and four feet in length, and the interior, which is very ca- pacious, is well calculated for its intended object. The centre of the principal floor is occupied by the chapel, under which is the hall for examinations, &c. The college consists of two departments—a college, in which is a school of medicine and surgery for senior, and a grammar school for junior students ; and provides for the residence of some of them in the houses of the tutors. It is under the superintendence of a princi‘ pal and thirty master. THE ROYAL INSTITUTION, Albermarle Street, Piccadilly. Established in 1799, chiefly through the exertions of Count Rumford, an able practical philosopher of that day. The meetings commenced in the year 1800, shortly before which time, the proprietors obtained a charter of incorporation, for the purpose of facilitating the introduction of useful and mechanical inventions and improvements; and for teaching, by courses of philo- sophical lectures and experiments, the application of science to the common purposes of life, whence the motto of the institution—“ Illus- trans commoda vitae.” The building is spacious, and well adapted for the purposes to which it is applied; it originally consisted of five private houses, which having been purchased by the institution, an imposing architectural front was added, from the designs of Mr. L. Vulliany, consisting of fourteen fluted half-columns, of the Corin- thian order, placed upon a stylobate; and, 'occupying the height of three floors, support an entablature and the attic story. On the fascia is inscribed, THE ROYAL INSTITUTION or GREAT BRITAIN. The lectures delivered here are of a very popular class, and are well at- tended. In the Ieading-room are deposited choice or rare specimens of art, taste, and vertu. Open daily, from ten till four. Admission by member’s order. LONDON INSTITUTION, North side of Finsbury Circus. This establishment can scarcely be termed a public institution, as, admittance to the library and reading- rooms is giVen only to proprietors, and those who are furnished with a proprietor’s ticket. But it is of such magnitude, and possesses such a valuable collection of books, as to deserve public attention. The library, consisting of sixty thousand volumes, is particularly rich in topographical works. The exterior of the building, erected from designs by \Villiam Brooks, Esq., is embellished by a very beautiful double portico, the upper portion, supported on Corinthian columns, resting on the ground floor portico, which consists of two solid piers, and as many Doric columns. The proportions of the various parts, forming the facade, are so true and exact, as to present a whole, in which magnificence and elegance are admirably combined. Open from ten in the morning till eleven at night, except on Satur- das, when it closes at three o’clock. LAW INSTITUTION, 104 to 109, Chancery Lane. Instituted 1825, and incorporated in 1831 and 1845. The present handsome edifice was commenced in 1829, from designs by Mr. Vulliany; and the north wing added in 1849. The grand portico of Portland stone, presents a beautiful elevation of four Grecian Ionic columns, and two antze (side pilasters), supporting an entablature and pediment: the former, to attain the requisite altitude, is placed on pedestals, which as well as the base- ment story and podium of the inner wall of the portico, are of Aberdeen granite. When the design shall have been completed by the erection of the south wing, the elevation will have a noble ap- pearance. EDUCATIONAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. 303 GRESHAM COLLEGE, Basing-hall Street, corner of Gresham Street. A handsome edifice of the enriched Roman style of architecture ; built in 1843, at a cost of £7,000 from the designs of Mr. George Smith, and has an at- tached Corinthian portico, on the principal entrance-front. The interior contains a large library, and professor’s room, on the ground floor; and a lecture room on the one pair floor, capable of holding upwards of five hundred persons; separate rooms above are also provided for the different professors, together with apparatus rooms in the basement, apartments for the attendants, &c. The Gresham Lectures, which are here annually delivered, were in- stituted by Sir Thomas Gresham, who endowed the college with the rents and profits of the Royal Exchange, in order that lectures on the seven liberal sciences should be gratuitously delivered to the public. The lectures are delivered during the four law terms, at twelve o’clock at noon, in Latin, and at one o’clock in English, except those on geometry and music, which are delivered in the evening at seven. RED CROSS STREET LIBRARY, Red Cross rStreet. This literary establishment is for the benefit of dis- senting clergymen; and was founded in 1711, by Daniel Williams, D.D., who bequeathed his valuable library of books and M88. for the purpose, with suitable salaries for a librarian and a keeper. The library, which consists of twenty thousand volumes, chiefly theo- logical, is open to respectable persons of every class, daily, throughout the year, except on a Saturday and Sunday. COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, Pall Mall East. This elegant and commodious building was erected from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, in 1824, and opened on the 25th of June, 1825, with a Latin oration delivered by the president, Sir Henry Halford. The style is the Grecian Ionic, and consists of two stories, with decorated windows, having a noble portico. An air of sumptuous elegance pervades the interior, made only the more impressive, by the sense of repose and dignity conveyed by the general solitude of the apartments, and by their airy and noble pro- portions. A door, on the left of the entrance-hall leads into the dining room, lighted by a range of six windows, overlooking Trafalgar Square, and having a chastely beautiful ceiling. Over the fire-place is a portrait of Harvey, the eminent physician of the Commonwealth, of whom it has been finely said, “he was a consummate scholar, without pedantry; a complete philosopher, without any taint of ins fidelity; learned, without vanity; grave, without moroseness; solemn, without preciseness; pleasant, without levity; regular, without form- ality; nice, without efi‘eminacy; generous, without prodigality; and religious, without hypocrisy. ” Here, also are portraits of Sir Edmund King, the physician, who, on his own responsibility, bled Charles II., when in a fit; and Dr. Friend, the well known historian of medicine. The censor’s room. up stairs, with its rich oak pannelling, and pil- lared walls, is rich in pictures and busts, amongst which may be noticed portraits of Cardinal Wolsey, Henry VIII., Andrew Vesalius, the famous Italian anatomist and physician, Dr. Sydenham, by Mary Beale; Linacre; Sir Thomas Browne, author of “ Religio Medico;’ and Sir Samuel Garth; also busts of George IV., by Chantrey; Sir Henry Halford; Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton ; Dr. Mead, by Roubiliac; Dr. Baillie, by Chantrey; and Dr. Babington, by Behnes. EDUCATIONAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. 305 The library is a truly splendid room, lighted by three beautiful lanterns in the ceiling, of the most elegant character. On the walls hang portraits of Dr. Radcliffe, the founder of the magnificent insti- tution at Oxford, and whose executors gave £2,000 towards the erection of this building, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, and of Harvey, by Cornelius Jansen. From the gallery, a narrow staircase leads up into a small theatre, or lecture-room, in which are some interesting busts and pictures; among the latter, a fine portrait of William Hunter. Admission may be obtained by an order from a fellow. Almost every eminent physician in London is a fellow. M / . Lfl Innufimflmmu—E‘ ‘..anvmm% aw , guitar .4 unauuqniuxsuuza‘ ~= ,5: COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, south side. Erected from designs by George Dance, Esq., R.A., and remodelled in 1836, from designs by Charles Barry, Esq., R.A., at a total cost of about £40,000. The exterior has a noble tretrastyle portieo, of the Ionic order, with an entablature. 1n the interior are a spacious and handsome museum, board and council rooms, libraries. conversation rooms. a handsome hall. and domestic apartments. The museum is an extenswe building, of an oblong form, With galleries surrounding it; and is the depository of the valuable collection of the late John Hunter, purchased by Government, from the executors of that great man, for £20,000. The Hunterian Oration is delivered on the 14th of February in each year, to which the attendance of the members of the College alone is per- mitted, Without a ticket from a member of the council. in the council room is a series of busts of some of the most distin- guished ornaments of the institution. Amongst them we may name John Hunter, Cline, Abernethey, Astley Cooper, and Samuel Cooper. 306 LONDON. COLLEGE. OF CHEMISTRY, 16, Hanover Square. Founded July, 1845, for the purpose of afford- ing adequate opportunities for instruction in practical chemistry, at a moderate expense, and for promoting the general advancement of chemical science, by means of a well-appointed laboratory. The first stone of the laboratory, Which has a neat elevation towards Oxford Street, was laid by HWRH Prince Albert, January 16th, 1846. Hours of attendance, daily, from nine to five. VETERINARY COLLEGE, Camden Town. Established in 1791. The buildings are extensive. and admirably adapted for their various purposes. The stables are scientifically arranged, and the institution has connected with it a theatre, 'for dissections, and the delivery of lectures, an apartment containing anatomical preparations, and an infirmary for sixty horses. ~— SION COLLEGE, London lVall. Founded in the year 1625, on the site of Elsing Hos- ital, by the Rev. Dr. Thomas White, rector of St. Duntan’s-in-the- Vest, for the improvement of the London clergy. The Whole body of rectors and vicars Within the city, are fellows of this College, and all the clergy in and near London have free access to its extensive and valuable library. The edifice consists of plain brick buildings, surrounding a square court. In the hall and library are several por- traits, and a curious piece of antique plate, having on one side an image of the Deity, and on the other a representation of the decolla- tion of John the Baptist. Under the library are almshouses for twenty poor persons. —— INSTITUTION OF CIVIL ENGINEERS, 25, Great George Street. \Vestminster. Established in 1818, and in- corporated June 3d, 1828. President, Joshua Field, Esq. Here is a portrait of Thomas Telford, Esq.. engineer of the Menai Brigde, and president of the Institution for fourteen years. ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS, 16, Lower Grosvenor Street, Grosvenor Square. Founded in 1834, for the general advancement of civil architecture; and incorporated January 11th, 1837. There is a good library of architectural works. President, Earl de Grey. EDUCATIONAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. . 307 HERALD’S COLLEGE, On the east side of Bennet’s Hill, Doctor’s Commons. A brick edi- fice ; the front is ornamented with rustic work, on which are placed four Ionic pilasters, supporting an angular pediment; the sides have arched pediments, also supported by Ionic pilasters. The north-west corner, a uniform quadrangle, was erected at the sole charge of Sir William Dugdale. Within, is a large room for keeping the Court of Honour; and all the offices are spacious and convenient. It belongs to a corporation of great antiquity; consisting of thirteen members, -—three kings-at-arms, six heralds-at-arms, and four pursuivants-at- arms, all nominated by the Earl Marshall of England, holding their places by patent, during good behaviour. Here is preserved the sword, dagger, and torquoise ring, belonging to James IV. of Scotland, who fell at Flodden Field. WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. At \Vestminster, where little poets strive To set a distich upon six and five, \Vhere discipline helps opening buds of sense, And makes his pupils proud with silver pence, I was a poet too.—-COWPER. Dean’s Yard, \Vestminster. Founded in 1560, by Queen Elizabeth, for forty boys, called the “Queen’s Scholars,” who receive an edu- cation to prepare them for the university. Many of the sons of the first nobility and gentry are placed under the tuition of the masters and assistants of this school. Several very celebrated persons have, at different periods, presided over this establishment; among others, Camden, the author of the “Britannia; Dr. Richard Busby, famous for his classical knowledge, and his severity; Dr. Markham, Arch- bishop of York; Dr. William Vincent, author of the “Voyage of Nearchus ; ” and Dr. Cary, Bishop of Exeter. Of the many great men (ducated here, it may be interesting to enumerate Dryden, Locke, Smith, Prior, Rowe, Settle, Bishop New- ton, Churchill, Lloyd, and W arren Hastings. CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, Milk Street, Cheapside. A handsome buildmg, in the Elizabethan style, erected in 1835, from designs by Mr. Bunning; the first stone having been laid October the 21st, by Lord Brougham. In addition to eight free schclarships, on the foundation, equivalent to £35 per annum each, and available as exhibitions to the universities, are the following exhibitions: “The Timcs’ ” scholarship, value £30 per annum; three Bcaufoy scholarships, the Salomon scholarship, and the Trevor scholarship, £50 per annum each; the Tegg scholarship, nearly £20 per annum; and several other valuable prizes. 03 Lon DON. ST. PAUL’S SCHOOL St. Paul’s Churchyard. Founded in'1509, and endowed by Dr. John Colet, Dean of St. Paul’s, son of Sir Henry Colet, twice Lord Mayor of London, and the friend of More and Erasmus. “ This one divine,’ writes Erasmus, “ Master Colet, was more than a match for us all; he seemed to be filled with a divine spirit, and to be somewhat above a man. He spoke not only with his voice, but with his eyes, his countenance, and his all demeanour.” The present building consists of a centre and wings, ornamented with a colonnade, and was erected in 1824, from the designs, and under the direction of Mr. George Smith, architect. The school is divided into eight classes, or forms ; and is under the superintendence of a master, an usher, and a. chaplain. , The Merccrs’ Company are the trustees and guardians. Among the many great and eminent men, educated at this school, were Leland and Camden, the antiquaries; Milton, the immortal author of “Paradise Lost ; ” Samuel Pepys, the diarist; Calamy, and Marlborough. MERCHANT TAILORS’ SCHOOL, Suffolk Lane, Cannon Street, was founded in 1561. the present spacious fabric, erected by Sir Christopher Wren, whose father had been educated at the school, is supported on the east side by stone pillars, forming a handsome cloister, containing apartments for the ushers. Adjoining is the chapel, and a well-furnished library. Three hundred boys receive a classical education, one-third of them free, and the rest for a very small stipend. It sends several scholars an- nually to St. John’s, Oxford, in which there are forty-six fellowships belonging to it. Among other eminent men here educated, may be named Bishop Andrews; Edwin Sandys, the traveller; Archbishop Juxon, who attended Charles I. to the scaffold; Bishop Van Mildetr; Shirley, the dramatist; Lord Clive; Lieut. Col. Denham, the African'travellei; ' and many other shining characters of modern times. THE CITY Hum. 309 CHAPTER XIX. THE CITY HALLS. The number of the City Companies, comprising the Livery, is ninety-one, of which forty-nine possess Halls, many of which are of a splendid and interesting character, and may be attractive to strangers; some being re- markable for their magnitude and architectural beauty, or from the paintings and antiquities they possess. Many of the Companies are extremely rich, possessing clear annual revenues of from thirty to fifty thousand pounds. The Livery Companies hold no insignificant rank in the history of the City of London. Their wealth, the important trusts reposed in them, the noble charities they support, and their connection with the civil constitution of the metropolis, make them not only of primary consequence to every Liveryman and Freeman, but also of engrossing interest to every one who takes a pleasure in being acquainted with the institutions that had the earliest share in laying the foundation of the commerce of his country; and who loves to know something of the government, religion, customs, habits, and expenses under which i such institutions attained their princely prosperity. MERCHANT TAILORS’ H ALL, Threadneedle Street. The entrance is by a large handsome gate- way, above which are the arms of the Company, finely executed on stone. Within, are tapestry hangings, containing the history of their patron, St. John the Baptist, exceedingly curious. The hall was built after the Great Fire, by J arman, the city architect, and is the largest of the companies’ halls, and from its size admirably adapted for public meetings, to which purpose it is occasionally ap- plied. It contains portraits of Henry VIII., by Paris Bordone; Charles 1., Charles II., (full-length) James II., William 111., Queen Anne; Georrre III., and Queen Caroline, by Ramsay; the late Duke of York, by ‘ir T. Lawrence; the Duke of Wellington, by VVilkie; William Pitt, by Hoppner; and portraits of some of the old officers of the company; as also a charter granted by Henry VIII. ‘ l°| 3 I I? my? a: 3' . . ... .t'x; ‘ ‘ .~ , .7- — _o . ‘ ,:;. _- , - _ ‘ 7.1% " _: 5;. 4 _ .3— 3 ‘_ :, x ‘ ' f‘ . 'I'. I ' ‘.‘ ‘ .4 " -v .i' ,. l ‘ V, .. L I ‘1 . :I '1 . . l -'V' . Q? If _ , 0.??- GOLDSMITHS’ HALL, Foster Lane. This noble structure was erected in 1833, from the dc. signs of Mr. Hardwicke, and opened July 15th, 1835. It is an imposing building of Portland stone, in the Italian style, the front having six noble Corinthian columns, over which is a rich entabla- ture, of the same order. It is considerably larger than the old hall, built shortly after the Great Fire, which stood on the same site, and was taken down in 1829. The staircase, which branches oif from right to left, is eighty feet from end to end ; it is adorned with statues of the Seasons, by Nixon, and sculptures from the antique : on the walls are portraits of George III. and Queen Charlotte, by Ramsay ; George IV., on horseback, by Northcote; and \Villiam IV., by Sir M. A. Shee; there is also a very fine bust of IVilliam IV., by Chantrey. The livery tea-room is spacious and well-proportioned, wainscotted and panelled with oak, and contains a large conversation piece, by Hudson. The suite of state rooms is in the west front, the first of which, the court dining room, is fifty—two feet by twenty-eight, and is lined with oak; beyond this is the drawing room, forty-two feet by twenty-eight, which is splendidly fitted up; the ceiling is fretted with a profusion of stucco work; and from it hangs a large and handsome chandelier. The last room in the suite is the grand banqueting room, a noble apartment, eighty feet in length, forty in breadth, and thirty—five feet in height; it is lighted by five lofty arched windows on the east side, emblazoned with armorial bearings. The ceiling is divided into square compartments, richly ornamented. Along the walls, hung'with scarlet drapery, are Corinthian columns of scagliola, in imitation of Siema marble, are portraits of Sir Hugh Middleton, by Jansen; Sir Martin THE. CITY HALLS. ‘ N i 31.1 , Bowes, with the cup from which Queen Eilzabeth drank at her cod ronation; the cup is still preserved by this company, to whom’it was be queathed by him; Queen Adelaide, by S-hee; Her Majesty and Prince Albert, by Hayter. In the room are also busts, by Chantrey, oi George 111., George IV., and William IV.: and a Roman altar, ‘ found in excavating for the foundation of the present building. Amongst the civic companies, or guilds of the City of London, that of the Goldsmiths is, in some respects, the chief, not only on account of its great antiquity and its wealth, but because it keeps up far more of ancient state and etiquette than the rest; and its entertainments are, if not more luxurious in their ch’eer, conducted with greater mag- nificence. It is, besides, with the exception of the Apothecaries’ Com- pany, the only one which still continues to exercise any of the func- tions of its craft, it still retaining the privilege and carrying out the business of assaying and stamping all gold and silver plate . before it can be exposed for public sale, which is done in the ground floor rooms, in the rear of the building. This office they were appointed to exercise by letters patent of Edward 111., in which it is commanded that all work ascertained to be of the proper fineness, shall have upon it “a stamp of a puncheon with a leopard’s head.” They are also required to assist at “the trial of the pix,” that is, the examination of the coinage, for the purpose of ascertain- ing whether it is of the sterling weight and purity. The pix (from the Latin pyxis) is the box in which the coins to be weighed and analyzed are contained. The jury of goldsmiths summoned, usually consists of twenty-five, and they meet in a vaulted chamber, on the east side of the cloisters at \Vestminster, called the chamber of the Pix. , Admission to the Hall may be obtained by an order from the master. MERCERS’ HALL, Cheapside. Erected by Sir Christopher Wren, after the Great Fire. The front of the building next Cheapside, has a richly sculptured facade, adorned with emblematical figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity; with other enrichments. The entrance from Ironmonger Lane is decorated with rustic stone pillars, supporting an arch, on the keystone of which is the company’s arms. The inner court, or piazza, is ornamented with colonnades of Doric columns. The hall and court room are wainscotted with carved oak, ornamented with Ionic columns, and the ceiling with moulded stucco work. The chapel is also wainscotted, and paved with black and white marble. In the hall are some curious and interesting relics of W'hittington, “thrice Lord Mayor of London; ” and portraits of Dean Colet, the founder of St. Paul’s School; and Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Royal Exchange. . - FISHMONGERS’ HALL, London Bridge. Erected in 1833, from designs by Mr. Henry Roberts (a little to the west of the site of the former hall, built by Sir Christopher \Vren, and which was taken down for the approaches to London Bridge). - This magnificent edifice is of the Grecian Ionic order, simple in its character, and admirably adapted to the peculiarities of its situation. It is faced with Portland stone ; and there are three distinct fronts: that to the east, being the entrance front, consists of a range of at- tached columns in the centre, and two wings adorned with pilasters, with a lofty attic surmounting the entablature. The Thames Street front presents a receding centre and two projecting wings ; and the river front is ornamented by a colonnade of granite, which supports a terrace. These fronts being all separate compositions, do not pro- duce that unity of effect which would have been desizable. Among other relics, the company possess a curiously carved wood statue of Sir \Villiam ‘Valworth, by Edward Pierce, grasping a dag- ger, said to be the identical one with which he slew \Vat Tyler, .in Smithfield ; on the pedestal are the following lines :— Brave Walworth, Knight, Lord Maior, yt slew Rebellious Tyler, in his alarmes; The king, therefore, did give in lieu, The dagger to Citye’s annex IN THE 1v. YEAR or RICHARD 11., ANNO DOMINI 1381. Here are also portraits of lVilliam III. and Queen Mary, by Mur- ray; George II. and Queen Caroline, by Shackleton; Duke of Kent, and Admiral Earl St. Vincent, by Sir \V. Beechey; and flier Majesty Queen Victoria, by Herbert Smith. THE CITY HALLS. . 31:5 IRONMONGERS’ HALL, Fenchurch Street. A spacious building of Portland stone, erected in 17 48, from designs by Thomas Holden, on the site of the previous hall, having a rusticated basement; above which, in the centre, are four Ionic pilasters supporting a pediment, having instead of sup- orters, a large cornucopia on each side, pouring out fruit and flowers. he vestibule is spacious, and divided into avenues by six columns of the Tuscan order. The great banqueting hall has recently been de- corated in the Elizabethan style, by Jackson and Sons, in papier maché and carton pierre. Here is a portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, painted on his admission into this company, in 1783 after the freedom of the City of London had been -conferred upon him, for his eminent naval services. GROCERS’ HALL, Grocers’ Hall Court, Poultry. Erected from the designS' of Thomas Leverton, and opened July 2lst, 1802 : a plain building with a stone facade, at the upper part of which are sculptures, emblematical of Oriental commerce. It stands on the site of the ancient residence of the Lords Fitzwalter. In the hall is a portrait and statue of Sir John Cutler, and portraits of Lord Chatham and his Son, the Right Honourable William Pitt. This company at one time held high rank among the city com- panies; in the reign of Henry 11., there being no less than twelve aldermen at one time members of this company. It also boasts of Ihaving the names of five kings enrolled among its members. DRAPERS’ HALL, Throgmorton Street. Erected on the site of the mansion formerly the residence of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, from designs by J arman, architect of the second Exchange. It is a spacious and eommodious edifice, with a handsome elevation of the Ionic order, elaborately embellished with foliage, by Adams, one of the architects of the Adelphi. It consists of a spacious quadrangle, with buidings on every side, elevated upon a colonnade, with arches forming a piazza. In the hall are portraits of Fitz-Alwyn, the first Lord Mayor of London; Mary Queen of Scots, attributed to Zucchero; Lord Nelson, by Sir William Beechey; and other fine pictures. . At the back of the hall is a spacious garden, open to the pubhe daily, except on Saturdays and Sundays. 314: LONDON. BARBERS’ HALL,~ 88, Monkwell Street, Cripplegate. The building was designed by that great architect, Inigo Jones, and though of a simple construction, is exceedingly elegant, and is considered as one of his masterpieces. The grand entrance is enriched with the company’s arms, large fruit, and other decorations. The court room has a fret-work ceiling, and is adorned with several beautiful paintings, particularly a very hand- some cne by Hans Holbein, of King Henry VIII. uniting the Barbers and Surgeons into one company, which contains portraits of eighteen of the most eminent of the company at that time ; a portrait of Inigo Jones, by Van Dyck; and a portrait of the well-known Countess of Richmond, by Sir Peter Lely. Amongst the plate is a curiously shaped silver gilt cup, presented by Charles II. : the trunk of the royal oak forms the handle, and the body of the tree, from which hang gilt acorns, the cup itlself; the lid is the royal crown. Admission, free, by order from any member of the court. ARMOURER? HALL 81, Coleman Street. The hall, a plain substantial brick building, with an attached portico of the Doric order, designed by the late Mr. \Villiam Creswick, contains a fine painting, by Northeote, repre- senting the entry of Richard Ii. and Henry of Bolingbroke into the City. Admission, free, by an order from any of the livery, or by a re- spectful application. STATIONERS’ HALL, Stationers’ Hall Court, on the north side of Ludgate Hill. This building stands on the site of a mansion, which anciently belonged to the Dukes of Bretagne. It is a spacious, convenient hall, and is lighted by a single series of windows, over which is placed a neat medallion. The entrance is from a small paved court, enclosed with a dwarf wall, surmounted by an iron railing. It underwent a sub- stantial repair, and the eastern front was cased with Portland stone, in 1805, under the direction of Robert Mylne, Esq. The window of stained glass, by Eginton, was presented to the company by Alder— man Cadell. In the hall are portraits of Sir Richard Steele; Prior, the poet; Richardson (the author of “Pamela ”) and his wife; Bishop Hoadlcy; Robert Nelson, Est}, author of "' the “hole Duty of Man; ” and Alderman Boydell, by Graham; also a painting by \Vest, of Alfred and the Pilgrim. Almanac day at Stationers’ Hall (every 22d of November, at twelve o’clock), although not of so much importance since the abolition of the monopoly, is still a sight worth seeing, for the bustle of the porters. THE CITY HALLS.- I 315 SALTERS’ HALL, St. Swithin’s Lane. A handsome and very elaborate elevation, erected in 1829, from the designs of George Smith Esq., on the site of the mansion of the Earls of Oxford. It consists of a tetrastyle Ionic portico, supporting an attic that forms a base or pedestal for the armorial bearings and supporters of the company. The side ‘portions of the elevations have semicircular headed windows, over which are tablets, beautifully sculptured with the Grecian honeysuckle. It is prettily situated in a planted garden, with dwelling-houses and offices on each side. ' In the hall are portraits of several of the English monarchs; a very fine portrait of Sir Christopher Wren ; and one of Adrian Charpentier, the artist; in the court-room, is a curious bill of fare, the ex- ‘ pense of entertaining fifty of the Company of Salters, amounting to £1. 133. 2451. . CLOTH WORKERS’ HALL, On the east side of Mincing Lane, Tower Street. It is a neat brick building, withfluted columns of the same, having Corinthian capitals of stone. The hall is lofty, and adorned with wainscot to the ceiling, which is of curious fretwork. At the west end are figures of James I. and Charles I., richly carved, life-size, in their robes, with regalia, all gilt and highly finished; and a spacious window of stained glass. Pepys, who was master in 1677, presented a richly chased silver cup, still used as the “loving cup,” on all festive occasions. SADDLERS’ HALL, Cheapside. A small, but very handsome hall, erected in 1823, having a neat entrance-front in Cheapside. The Saddlers’ Company, which is twenty-fifth on the list of the city companies, is, nevertheless, one of the most wealthy of the minor companies. Frederic Prince of lVales (father of George III.), was master of this company, and in the hall is a portrait of him, by T. Frye. The well known Sir Peter Laurie is a member of this company. APOTHECARIES’ HALL, Water Lane, Blackfriars. A spacious edifice, erected in 1670, With a plain front to the street; a gate leads to an open court, at the upper end of which, a grand flight of stairs leads into the hall. . In the hall is a portrait of James I., and a bust of Gideon De Laune, a Frenchman, apothecary to James I., and the cause of the incorporation of the Apothecaries’ Company, in 1606; .Robert Grower, Esq., master in 1726; and several other persons of emmence. VINTNERS’ HALL, 0n the South side of Upper Thames Street, on the west of the ap- proach to Southwark Bridge. It consists of three sides of a quad- rangle, enlosing a square court, the north side of Which is enclosed by lofty iron gates, hung on rusticated piers. The south portion of the quadrangle contains the hall; this side, like the other two, is divided by pilasters, into three divisions, the intercolumniations con- taining windows of stained glass, which light the hall. Over this is an cntablature, carried through the entire building. Each side of the quadrangle is surmounted by a pediment, the tympanum of the centre division being charged with a shield, bearing the company’s arms—three tuns and a chevron. The walls of the council chamber are beautifully carved work, having the arms of previous members emblazoned on the sides, surmounted by wreaths of flowers. In the hall is a richly carved oak chair, said to have been preserved from the Great Fire; also full-length portraits of Charles II., by Sir Peter Lely; James II. and his Queen; and Prince George of Den- mark; and a statue of St. Martin, the patron saint of this compan ; and over the chimney-piece, is a copy of Rubens’ picture of t. Martin Dividing his Cloak with the Beggar. SKINNERS’ HALL, Dowgate Hill. A spacious building, with an elevation of the Ionic order, designed by Robert Adam, Esq, one of the architects of the Adelphi. This company was incorporated 1327, and stands sixth of the twelve great companies. The drawing-room is a richly fitted apartment, lined wholly with cedar, finely carved and enriched. It has recently been restored, under the direction of the company’s arch- 1tect, Mr. John Moore, F.R.S. The dining hall is a noble apartment, in the Italian style, lighted from the roof, capable of dining at least one hundred and fifty per- sons, with a recess for the side-board at the dais end, and an Ionic gallery for the minstrels at the other. PAINTER STAINERS’ HALL, 9, Little Trinity Lane. A neat building, having a garden on the north side. The hall-room is adorned with a handsome screen, arches, pillars, and pilasters of the Corinthian order, painted in imitation of porphyry, with gilt capitals. The panels are of wainscot, and the ceiling is embellished with historic and other paintings, amongst which are portraits of Charles II. and his Queen Catherine, by Houseman. In the hall is also a painting of the Great Fire of London, and a portrait of Camden, the antiquarian, who presented the company with a cup and cover, still used by them on St. Luke’s day. Admission by an introduction from any of the livery. THE POLICE AND Parsons. ‘ 317 CHAPTER XX- THE POLICE AND PRISONS. _— The Police of suoh a metropolis as London, cannot fail to excite the ' liveliest interest-in the minds of every intelligent visitor; for next-to the blessings which a nation may derive from an excellent constitution, and system of general laws, are those advantages which result from a well-regu- lated and energetic police, conducted and enforced with purity, activity, vigilance, and discretion. THE CITY AND METROPOLITAN POLICE. The London Police Force, consisting of the City and Metropolitan Police, was embodied in the year 1830, and is an admirably regu- lated body of men, forthe introduction of which, the inhabitants of London and the surrounding districts ought ever to be grateful to the late lamented Sir Robert Peel, by whom it was established, super- seding the old ineflicient watchmen, and affordng greater protection to the person, and ampler security to the property of the inhabitants, than is enjoyed by those of any other city in the civilized world. The Metropolitan Police Force, the average strength of which is about five thousand men, is distributed into eighteen divisions, dis- tinguished by different letters of the alphabet, each being attached to a particular locality or district, in each of which is a station or watch- house, from which point the duty is carried out. The strength of each division averages one hundred and ninety-eight men: having a superintendent, four inspectors, and sixteen sergeants. The smallest division is that of Whitehall (A), consisting of one hundred andZsiX- teen men; the largest. is that of Stepney (K), consisting of two hundred and ninety men. Each man has marked on the collar of his coat the letter of his division, and a number corresponding with his name in the books of the office, by which he may at all times be recog— nized. The first sixteen numbers in each division denote the sergeants. All the policemen are dressed in blue uniform, and at night wear dark-brown great coats. Each man is furnished with a baton, a. rattle, and a lantern. The amount of bodily labour required from each individual is very considerable; he has to walk twenty miles every day _in going his 318 . LONDON. rounds, besides being obliged to attend charges at the police offices, the labour of which may be estimated as equal to five miles more— in all, twenty-five miles a day. During two months out of every three, each police constable is on night duty, for nine hours each night, from nine o’clok in the evening to six o’clock in the morning, The number of persons taken into custody, by the city and metro- politan police, in five years (1844-18—18), was 374,710. The gross total number of robberies during the same period, was 70,889; the value of the property stolen, £270,915 ; and the value of the property recovered, £55,167, or rather more than one-fifth of the property stolen. - — THE THAMES POLICE “ras established in 1798, for the purpose of suppressing the numerous depredations committed on the Thames, which had then become noto- rious. Its importance will be admitted, when it is recolleeted that on the river there are engaged upwards of thirteen thousand vessels, which annually discharge and receive more than three millions of packages. The superintendence of this department of the police ex- tends from Yauxhall to W'oolwich, with the exception of the space from Tower Stairs to the Temple, belonging to the jurisdiction of the city. There are three principal stations: at Somerset House, at VVapping, and at Blackwall; and between these, three boats are constantly plying at night. THE POLICE OFFICES, The City of London, which is separated from “’estminster by Temple Bar, is under the control of its own magistracy, consisting of the lord mayor and aldermen; there are two police offices, one in the Mansion House, where the lord mayor presides; and. the other at Guildhall, where the aldermen sit in rotation. All cases occurring east of King Street are taken to the Mansion House, and those west of King Street to the Guildhall. Both offices usually commence business at twelve o’clock. For ofi‘ences which are committed in those parts of the metropolis out of the jurisdiction of the city, there are eight offices at different distances in “’cstminster, Middlesex, and Surrey, namely, one in each of the following streets; Bow Street; Great Marlborough Street; “'orship Street, Shoreditch; Lambeth Street, \Vhitechapel; High Street, Marylebone; Queen Square, 'West- minster; and Union Street, Southwark ; and the Thames Police Ofliee, “rapping. The duty of the magistrates in these offices extends to several im- portant judicial proceedings, which in a variety of instances, theyare empowered and required to hear and determine in a summaryway particularly in cases relating to the Customs and Excise. . THE POLICE AND Parsons. 319 I THE CENTRAL CRIMINAL COURT, Old Bailey, forms part of the Sessions House, or as it was formerly called, the “ Justice Hall,” and is divided by a broad yard from the prison of Newgate; it has jurisdiction over offences committed in all places within ten miles of St. Paul’s, an extent which includes portions of Surrey, Kent, and Essex, as well as Middlesex. Offences com- mitted on the high seas, within the jurisdiction of the Admiralty, can also be tried at this court. Its sittings are held twelve times a year, or once a month; and as each session generally occupies a fort- night, and sometimes nearly three weeks, the space between each is exceedingly brief. ‘The Old Court, is the chief or main court, and the one to which the well known words the “ Old Bailey,” were so long exclusively applied; and in it the judges, from choice or predilection, generally choose to sit. In the New Court, the Recorder, and Common Sergeant of the Corporation of the City of London, preside; it seldom being honoured with the presence of a judge, unless there is a pressure of business. There is also a third Court for the purpose of expediting the business of the session. The juries are summoned indiscriminately from London, and the neighbom'ing counties, over which the sphere of the court extends. ' The Old Com't is an oblong room, which having been enlarged . sinCe it was first built, has a one-sided look, the seat of the chief judge, which occupied the centre, being new considerably to the left; the Bench is a range of crimson-cushioned seats, the central seat, for the lord mayor, having a canopy over it, on which are the royal arms. The lord mayor and aldermen, by the Act, are constituted judges of the court, but they take no part beyond being present; there are seldom more than two or three members of the corporation on the bench'at a time. On the right hand of the bench is the jury-box; in the centre of the room is a table, round which sit the counsel; and opposite the bench is the deck, a square box, the front of which is technically called the “ bar.” Over the dock is a small gallery for visitors, who must, however, PAY for admission, according to a graduated scale, as the door-keeper estimates the importance of the trial, or the eager- ness of the persons to be admitted; a practice, the continuance of which is a national disgrace. By the common law, courts of justice ought freely to be open; you may walk, without obstruction, into the space below the bar of the House of Lords, during the arguing of an appeal case; the superior courts of VVestminsteerall are as freely open as a place of worship; but the doors of the Old Bailey are only to be unlocked by silver keys. The number of persons tried at the Central Criminal Court, is be- tween three and four thousand annually. The number of criminal offenders, within the range of the jurisdiction of the court, may be taken at upwards of four thousand, or about one in every five hun- dred of the population. NEWGATE, South-west corner of Newgate treet. Of all the London prisons, this alone has an imposing aspect. \Vho can pass by it unmoved? Massive, dark, and solemn, it arrests the eye, and retains it; and once seen, it is not easily forgotten. A stranger would fix upon it at a glance, for it is one of the few buildings, in this wilderness of bricks and mortar, which has a character of its own. The solid masses of its granite walls, strong enough to resist. artillery, unbroken by door or casement, frown down upon, and divide the great arteries of London, and face that sombre church, so well, and yet so strangely named after the Holy Sepulchre ! In the open space in front of this prison, executions (now happily of rare occurrence), usually take place, with all their terrors; how many a young heart has here had its pulsation stopped! how many who once were the pride of their parents, and the joy and hope of their circle of friends, have here had their careers of profligacy and crime cut short, and in the pride of their strength, been “ lighted the way to dusty death.” This edifice was designed by Mr. George Dance, the architect of the'Mansion House; the first stone haying beenlaid on the 31st of May, 1770, by Alderman Beckford, father of the author of Vathek, but the works were carried on very slowly, until in consequence of the destruc- tion of the old jail during the Gordon riots, in 1780, it became necessary to hasten their completion, and we find, that. on the ninth of Decem- ber, 1783, the first execution took place before its walls, previous to which time malefactors were executed at Tyburn. Inside and outside this prison is equally striking; a flight of narrow steps leads into the tiu'nkey’s room; an ill-lighted passage conducts from this into a small open court, surrounded by high walls, THE POLICE AND Parsons. 321 the end of which is the women’s ward, a massive building, with few, but strongly-grated windows; it is approached by a stone staircase, branching off fromwhich, on either side, are suites of apart- ments, occupied by prisoners, classified according to their different degrees of guilt. Passing through several rooms and corridors, which denote the iron character of the building, erected as if the architect had but one object in view, Strength, the men’s quadrangle is reached; it is similar to the women’s ward, but larger, consisting of three yards and the buildings surrounding them. This gaol is used for prisoners await- ing their trial, those convicted of crimes upon the high seas, and malefactors condemned to death, the only separation made, being into two classes, felons and misdemeanants, the average of whose term of imprisonment is about three weeks, The chapel is neat and plain, with galleries for the male and fe- male prisoners; and below, in the centre, is a chair, conspicuously placed, and set apart for the use of the condemned shedder of blood, in which he Sits on the day previous to his execution, in presece of his fellow criminals, and listens for the last time to the sound of solemn exhortation : formerly the coffin was placed at his feet, during the service, but this nnfeeling mockery is no longer enacted. The condemned cells, fifteen in number, five on each floor, are at the north—east corner. The narrow port-holes, in Newgate Street, admit light into the galleries, and the man confined in the farthest dungeon on the ground-floor, is within a few feet of the thousands hourly passing by; they are nine feet high, nine feet deep, and six feet broad; vaulted, and having a small window doubly grated, with doors four inches thick; the whole appearanee of the cell pre- , senting to the mind of the malefactor an overwhelming sense of strength. Escape from them was never known. Here, at various times, during the last fifty years, these dungeons have been tenanted, amongst others, by the following notorious criminals :— John Bellingham, for the murder of Mr. Perceval, in the Lobby of the House of Commons, June, 1812. Henry Fauntleroy, a banker, executed for forgery, November, 1824'. \Villiam Probert, the accomplice of Tliurtell, executed for horse- stealing, May, 1825. , Joseph Hunton, a well known quaker, executed for forgery, De- cember, 1828. Thomas Maynard, December, 1829, the last person executed for forgery. George Widgett, May, 1831, the last person executed for sheep- stealing , John Bishop and Thomas Williams, December, 1831, for the mur- der of an Italian boy. James Greenacre, for the murder of Hannah Brown, May, 1837. Francis Benjamin Courvoisier, for the murder of Lord William RHSSel, July, 1840. Daniel Good, for the murder of Jane Jones, at Putney, May, 1842. William Henry Hooker, for the murder of James Dela Rue, at Hampstead, April, 184-5. In a small ante-room, near the entrance to the prison, is a collection of casts from the heads of the principal malefactors, recently executed, duplicates of which may be seen in the Chamber of Horrors at Madame Tussaud’s. ~ Orders to VlGW the interior of Newgate, are granted by the Score- tary of State for the Home Department, the Lord Mayor, and the Sheriffs for the time being. WHITE CROSS STREET PRISON, White Cross Street. A Debtor’s Prison, appertaining to the Sheriffs of London and Middlesex, erected in 1815, on the site of the Peacock Brewhouse, from the designs of Mr. William Montague, clerk of the City Works, for the reception of those debtors who had been pre- viously incarcerated indiscriminately with criminals in Newgate and the Compter. It is capable of accommodating four hundred persons, but there are rarely more than half that number of detenus at one time. It is divided into six distinct divisions, or wards, respectively called,—1. The Middlesex, or County ward; 2. The Poultry and Giltspur, or City ward; 3. The Ludgate, or Freeman’s ward; 4. The Dietary ward; 5. The Remand ward; 6. The Female ward. These are quite separate, and no communication is permitted between the inmates of one and another. __ I HOUSE OF DETENTION, For the County of Middlesex, Clerkenwell. There is nothing at all striking in the appzaranee of this prison, which has been newly re- built, on the model of Pcntonville, but in a rougher and less expensive style of architecture, at a cost of about £28,000, on the site of a former edifice, erected in 1818, (the taking down of that building, com- aratively a new gaol, savouring much of the appearance of a job). t has cells for: three hundred prisoners, but the usual number of persons confined within its walls is about one hundred and fifty. It is now only used as a house of detention, like Newgate, for prisoners awaiting their trial at the sessions; and for this purpose its Internal arrangements are not ill-adapted. The building is in the form of a cross, of which the intersecting point is open, and commands a view of the entire buildings. Three of the branches are occupied by a. triple range of cells; the fourth—the ground-fioor—is appropriated to the officers of the prison, and a number of rooms provided with tables and writing materials, for the accommodation of the prisoners’ solicitors—the upper part by the chapel, neatly and appropriately arranged. THE POLICE ' AND Parsons. 323‘ HOUSE OF CORRECTION, Bath Street, Coldbath Fields, Clerkenwell. The oldest portion of the prison now standing, was built in 17 94, but large additions have since been made, from time to time, and a considerable wing has just been erected and occupied, on the female side. The whole being sur- rounded by a lofty but gloomy looking wall, enclosing nine acres of ground. For a long time this gaol had a reputation for excessive severity, which. happily it no longer deserves, an allusion to which is made in that clever poem, the “ Devil’s Walk,” the authorship of which has been claimed for Southey, Coleridge, and Professor Porson :- As he went through Coldbath fields, he saw A solitary cell; And the devil was pleased, for it gave him a hint For improving his prisons in hell. Within the walls, on the right of the entrance, fis the "governor’s house, which occupies a large piece of ground; along and under the wall, is a flower garden in the finest possible order—in such a state of culture and floral health, as to excite—considering the neighbour- hood—both curiosity and interest. This garden is cultivated entirely by the prisoners, who are wisely permitted, as considerations of health or good conduct dictate, to have out-door employment, a cir- cumstance in connection with the ample space, the full supply of light and air afforded to the prisoners, and the general system of the prison, causes Coldbath Fields to be one of the healthiest places of confine~ ment in the metropolis; with an average of twelve hundred to four-y teen hundred occupants, there are rarely more than three or four persons to be found in the infirmary at one time. In 1820, Thistlewood and the other Cato Street conspirators were: lodged here before being sent to the Tower DON. The prison has adequate accommodation for twelve hundred and ' fifty prisoners, but there are frequently alarger number confined here. The official staff consists of the governor, two chaplains, one sur- geon, three trade instructors, and one hundred and thirty-four assistant officers; in all one hundred and forty-one persons. MODEL PRISON, Pentonville; erected for the purpose of carrying out the solitary sys- tem, on the American plan; the first stone of the prison was laid on the 10th of April, 1840, and the building completed in the autumn of 1842, under the superintendence of Major J ebb, surveyor-general of prisons, at a cost of upwards of £90,000. It consists of five spacious wings, or galleries, on the sides of four of which, the cells, five hundred and twenty in number, are situated; each cell being thirteen feet long, seven feet broad, and nine feet in height, well ventilated, and kept at an even temperature by means of warm air, and having an unlimited supply of warm and cold water, good and clean bedding, and being provided with a bell to summon the warder in case of illness. This prison is intended for the reformation of prisoners who are under sentence of transportation; but the discipline is so strict, and the confinement is found to be so pre- judicial to health, that none but convicts of the strongest constitutions are brought here. The period of probation is two years, during which time the inmates are taught useful trades, to fit them for obtaining a livelihood in the colony to which they are about to be sent; the gross earnings, however, do not amount to so much as the expenses incurred in salaries and rations to the instructors, whilst in Glasgow, the male prisoners maintain themselves entirely by their work. During 1849, the average number of prisoners was four hundred and fifty-seven, the cost of management £16,392 1s. 7d., 01 £36 per head, Which with the interest of the sum expended on the building, and the loss on the work, gives the average cost per head, of very nearly £50 per annum : contrast this extravagant outlay in this so called MODEL prison, for the benefit of the depraved, with the low diet in the poor- law union houses, the receptacles of the unfortunate and deserv- ing poor. BRIDEWELL, Bridge Street, Blackfriars. This building is situated upon the Slte of a palace which stood here before the Conquest, and continued to be used as such until the reign of Edward VI., who gave it in perpetuity to the City of London, as a working house and house of correction for the poor, to which latter purpose it is now devoted, as well as a place of punishment for “ unruly and disobedient City prentices.” THE POLICE AND ‘ PRISONS. .325 V In the hall, which occupies one side of the court yard, is a large picture by Holbein, representing Edward VI., delivering. the Royal Charter of Endowment to the Lord'Mayor, in which the artist has introduced his own portrait; full-length portraits of Charles II., by Sir Peter Lely; Sir W. Turner, Lord Mayor in the reign of Charles IL, by Mrs. Beale; and George III. and Queen Charlotte, after Sir Joshua Reynolds. ~ In St. George’s Fields, within the precincts of Bethlehem Hospital, is the House of Occupation, an excellent institution, connected with this endowment, in which two hundred boys and girls are taught trades, and qualified for servants, by which means, hundreds are rescued from crime, and become useful members of society. PENITENTIARY, Millbank, is the largest penal establishment in England. In form it consists of six pentagonal buildings, surrounded by a lofty octagonal- shaped brick wall, enclosing an area of sixteen acres, seven of which are covered with the buildings and airing yards, and the other, nine are laid out as gardens; the whole erected at a cost of £500,0 . It contains twelve hundred separate cells, twelve feet lon feet wide,lofty, arched, and well—lighted; the corridors ' ich they are situated being more than three miles in lengt wvas originally intended for a penitentiary upon Jeremy Be m’s plan, who named it a “ panopticon ” ; it was afterwards cha ' 6. into a regular govern- ment prison, and is now the general depo r transports, who, after an incarceration of about three months, ar sent, the juyenlles 19 Parkhurst, and the adults to the penitentiari at Pentonville, Rer ; ing, and Wakefield, or shipped on board the lks. I to Y D’ The usual number of inmates is nearly one jthousand five hundred, and about five thousand prisoners are annually immured Within these walls, who are divided into two classes; the first wearing a dress of yellow and brown, and the second class green and brown, the ma- terials of which are cheap and coarse. The female convicts are under the control of warders of their own sex, the governor, (Captain Groves) being forbidden to visit that portion of the gaol, except in the company of the matron, In the chapel, which is large, the prisoners attend-service twice on the Sunday. This gaol is entirely under the control of three Government In« spectors, who, with the Secretary of State for the Home Department. have alone the power of granting orders for admission. TOTHILL FIELDS' PRISON, Francis Street, W'estminster; a substantial fire-proof edifice, erected in 1833, from designs by Mr. Robert Abraham, at an expense of £145,750, for the reception of male and female convicts, and for prisoners awaiting their trial. It is octagonal-shaped, and so ar- ranged as to effect a complete classification of the prisoners, in respect of crime, age, and sex. The entrance, a plain porch, formed of massive granite blocks, iron gates, and portcullis, leads to the court yard, two hundred and fity feet in diameter, ensuring abundance of pure air and light. On the south, west, and north sides of the yard, are three distinct prisons, of five buildings each, capable of containing six hundred prisoners. rl‘he southern division, for males awaiting their trials; the western, for those convicted; and the northern for female convicts awaiting their trial; each prison having its respective oflice, houses, infirmarics, airing courts, and visiting spaces. On the east side of the yard is the entrance lodge, rooms for the medical examination of the prisoners, hot baths, and rooms for the change of dress necessary on the prisoners’ reception. The day "rooms, cells, and passages, are per- fectly dry, being chiefly paved with marl bricks, in cement, over a solid artificial foundation, elevating the whole considerably above high- water mark, and allowing thorough drainage. The governor’s- house is situated on the west side of the octagon, and commands a view of the whole internal arrangements. On the ground floor is the turnkey’s room; 011 the principal story are the visiting magistrate’s room, and the governor’s apartments, to which access is obtained by a double flight of steps from the court yard. The chapel is situated above the chamber story of the governor’s house; it is well lighted and ventilated, and capable of containing six hundred prisoners. An iron screen separates the prisoners from Be officers and visitors, and the pulpit and reading desk are so placed oto be seen by all. 1 ‘ ' ‘ . ther prison is surrounzdcd'by1 a ioftypmcl; wall wnich greatlycon- punisiio the safe custoay o: are imam-ts. THE POLICE AND PRISONS. 327 HORSEMONGER LANE GAOL, Horsemonger Lane, Southwark: the County Gaol for Surrey. A massive brick building, erected in 1781, at the suggestion of the celebrated John Howard; and consists of the governor’s house on the outside, and two portions, the department occupied by debtors, and that oc- cupied by criminals, or persons arrested "on criminal charges; these divisions, are however, quite distinct, and on no account is any com- munication permitted between the two ; the whole being surrounded by a strong wall. Here it was that Leigh Hunt was confined for two years (1812-14), for calling George IV., when Prince Regent, “an Adonis of fifty,” in an article in the Examiner newspaper; and here, in June 1813, Lord Byron and the poet Moore dined with Mr. Hunt, and found that he had surrounded himself with “luxurious comforts—the trellised flower garden without—the books, busts, pictures, and piano~forte within.” The place of execution for criminals, is a temporary erection on the top of the northern lodge; the last execution that took place here being that of the Mannings, November 13th, 1849; the scene was witnessed by Mr. Charles Dickens, who bears the following tes- timony to the moral affect of public executions.:—“ I believe that a sight so eminently awful as the wickedness and levity of the immense crowd collected at that execution, could be imagined by no man, and could be presented in no heathen land "under the sun. The horrors of the gibbet, and '.the crime which brought the wretched murderers to it, faded in my mind before the atrocious bearings, looks, and language of the assem‘liled spectators. I am solemnly convinced that nothing that human higenu‘ityzcould-deviise to be done in this city, in the same compass of time, could work such ruin as one public execution, and I stand .astounded .andvappalled by the wickedness it exhibits.” QUEEN’S PRISON, Borough Road, Southwark; formerly the King’s Bench, is a place of confinement for debtors, and those sentenced to imprisonment by the Court of Queen’s Bench, for libels and other misdemeanors. The buildings forming the prison, consisting of two hundred and twenty- four separate rooms, and a spacious chapel, cover a considerable ex- tent cf ground, the whole being surrounded bya sombre brick wall, fifty feet high surmounted by a chevaux-de-frize. In the interior is a large racket or exercise ground. The rooms are very small, being only about nine feet square, in each of which is a. bed and other conveniences for the inmates; the apartments of the marshal, or keeper, Mr. Hudson, are situated without the walls. Open daily from nine in the morning till seven in the evening, to all persons who may wish to visit any of the inmates. t' N 2 V 1': R BITS \ ». riot H FORE] CHAPTER XXI. N A THE BAZAARS AND ARCADES. The Bazaar, notwithstanding it had in the beginning to encounter much of that prejudice and consequent opposition by which most inventions and discoveries are frequently attempted to be decried, has continued, from its first introduction, to flourish with increased and deserved reputation. THE PANTHEON, Oxford Street: a noble building of the Grecian order of architecture ; the entrance front of which formed part of the original \Vinter Ranelagh; erected by J amcs \Vyatt, Esq., in 1772, and which for many years was open as a theatre and public promenade. Miss Stephens, now Dowager Countess of Essex, here made her first ap- earance on any stage as Barbarina. In 1834, the present structure, the third building on this site, was adapted for a bazaar by Sydney THE BAZAARS AND ARCADES. 329 Smirke, A.R.A-; ata cost of £40,000, and is the largest, finest pro- portioned, and most imposing in its appearance, of any bazaar in London. Thevisitor. to -the metropolis may derive much pleasure from an inspection of the fancy articles tastefully displayed on end- less ranges of well-disposed stalls. Over the entrance-hall is a suite af rooms devoted to the display for sale, of a collection of paintings, modern English artists, many of which are of great merit. At the rear of the building is a conservatory and aviary, containing a choice collection of plants, birds, and gold and silver fish, well worth a visit. There is an entrance to this portion of the building in G1 eat Marlborough Street. SOHO BAZAAR, Soho Square. An establishment for the sale of light goods; formed in 1815, by the late Mr. Trotter, and much frequented. It consists of several rooms, hung with red cloth, and fitted up with mahogany counters, divided into stands, which are occupied by upwards of two hundred females. The nature of the mart, and the variety of goods exhibited, daily attract numerous visitors, and renders it quite a fashionable lounge. BURLINGTON ARCADE, On the west side of Burlington House, Piccadilly; the property of C. C. Cavendish, Esq., M.P. ; a covered street or avenue of shops, ex- tending from Piccadilly to Cork Street, two hundred and ten yards leng, and having a triplicated entrance at either end. This novel building, erected in 1819, by Samuel Ware, Esq” an architect of some reputation in his day, is much frequented, and is rendered par- ticularly attractive by its seclusion from the heat and inclemency of the weather, and by the attractiveness of the numerous fancy shops, of which there are seventy-two. At night when these, are lighted. up, the vista has a very pretty effect. LOWTHER ARCADE, West Strand. This pleasing bazaar-like avenue. which forms an acute angle with the Strand, leading to the back of St. Martin’s Church, was built by Mr. Herbert, in 1831 ; it is two hundred and forty-five feet long, twenty feet broad, and thirty-five feet high ; and consists of twenty-five small, but neat shops, and from its proximity ' to the Strand is much frequented. The shops in the interior are de- signed to have the appearance of one great whole, but as the goods are principally displayed in the front of the windows, the effect in- tended to be produced is altogether destroyed. The style of architecture is of the Grecian order, having the roof domed, with an ornament as a finish, to the top of the dome. This, the most noted toy-mart in London, is much frequented by visitors. —— BAKER STREET BAZAAR, Baker Street. An extensive emporium for the sale of carriages, har- ness, furniture, and every description of furnishing homonngy. In a portion of these spacious premises, formerly used as a horse bazaar, 1s annually held the Smith-field Club Cattle Show the finest Show of fat cattle, pigs, and sheep, in the world. THE PANTECHNICON‘, Motcomb Street, Belgrave Square. A vast and splendid establish- ment, for the warehousing and sale of goods; consisting of two parts; the northern division being devoted to the purposes of a picture gal- lery, a furniture establishment, and fer the reception of carriages, where may be seen ranged all the usual varieties, from the dress car- riage to the light gig, each carriage having its selling price marked 011 a ticket attached to it. The southern division is used as a ware- house for storing furniture and other articles. EXETER CHANGE, Wellington Street, Strand; the property of the Marquis of Exeter a short, yet pleasing arcade, built in 1845, from designs by Mr. Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., and handsomely decorated by Mr. Sang. TEE MARKETS. .331 CHAPTER XXII. THE MARKETS. The principal Markets in the metropolis are for cattle, the Metropolitan Cattle Market, on Mondays and Fridays: for fish at Billingsgate and Hungerford Markets: for meat, poultry, and game, Newgate and Leaden- hall Markets: for vegetables and fruit, Covent Garden, Borough, Farring- den, and Portman Markets: for hides and leather, Bermondsey and Leadenhall Markets: and for hay and straw, Cumberland and Smithfield Markets. Horses may be purchased at Tattersall’s, Grosvenor Philé?’ and other repertories. " ‘ -..ir , ‘.HISSAI‘.AI. METROPOLlfAN CATTLE MARKET, Copenhagen Fields. This Market which takes the place and rank of ancient Smithfield, is the principal market for live cattle in Lon- don, and the greatest cattle market in the world; it is situated in Copenhagen-fields, on the summit of the hill overlooking Camden- tOWJJ, cast of the Brecknock-road. The Market, or rather the whole space laid out by the City author- ities, consists of a quadrangle of about thirty acres, rendered accessi- ble by two broad cross-roads, and efi‘ectually protected 'from the intrusion of persons or animals not connected with the trade, by four substantial walls. The New Market includes not only separate sections for the sale of cattle, sheep, calves, and pigs, but vast rows of sheds for the lairage of those animals, a series of slaughter-houses, a dead-meat market, a hide and skin market, a house for bankers, and many other accom- modations for the trade interested in the meat supply of London, which are thus all conveniently concentrated in one space, easily accessible from the chief railway stations. Two hotels, the Queen’s Arms and the City Arms, and several public-houses within the Market, beside a number flanking the communicating roads, affords the refreshment which are required by hungry graziers and thirsty drovers, from four a.m. to five pm. There is ample room to receive and advantageously display 30,000 sheep and 5000 head of cattle, the largest number ever sent to a Christmas market, and enable all the graziers, head drovers, carcase and retail butchers, and others whose business lies in the live-market to transact their varied business in an orderly manner. The total cost of the Market and its adjuncts has been stated at £300,000, but. we should think that it must be more, as the contract for paving fourteen acres was taken at sixty thousand pounds. Nearly the whole of the cattle sold here go through the hands of salesmen, numbering about 600 giving employment to 1000 licenced drovers, for whose government very strict by e-laws are enacted; his droving stick being obliged to be stamped, the iron not to exceed a quarter of an inch in length, and deprivation of licence invariably follows a conviction for cruelty. The best time for a stranger to see the Market is early on Monday morning; the largest market day is that on the second Monday in December. SMITHFIELD MARKET. The area of Smithfield, so long celebrated as the great cattle market of London, is now only used as a Market for Hay and Straw, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. CUMBERLAND MARKET, York Square, Albany Street. A market. for Hay, Straw, and other articles, removed from the Haymarket, pursuant to an Act 11. George IV., cap. 14. THE MARKETS. 333 LEADENHALL MARKET, Leadenhall Street. One of the largest general provision markets in London, and perhaps in Europe; originally established in Eastcheap. It derives its name from being on the site of the ancient Leadenhall, built in 1419, at the sole expense of Sir Simon Eyre, citizen and draper, Lord Mayor of London, who being moved with compassion at the distresses of the poor, from a deficiency of corn, gave it, in 144 5, to the corporation, to be used as a public granary for laying up corn in cheap times, against periods of scarcity. It is used as a market for butchers’ meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, leather, hides, bacon. and such like; and although no longer cele- brated for its beef, it is still the largest and best poultry market in London. Don Pedro de Ronquillo, on visiting Leadenhall, said to Charles II. that he believed that there was more meat sold in that market alone in one week, than in all the kingdom of Spain in a year, and “he was a very good judge.” BOROUGH MARKET, Is situated at the west end of York Street, near to St. Saviour’s Church. It is a very considerable market, for all sorts of provisions, but principally fruit and vegetables, and is much frequented by the costermongers; being the largest market for Irish fruit in the me- tropolis ; it is altogether destitute of any architectural, pretensions. FARRINGDON MARKET, Occupies the sloping surface extending from the west side of Far- ringdon Street to Shoe Lane. The area occupies about one acre and a half, in the form of a parallelogram, surrounded on two sides by substantial well-built houses, in which are the shops of the butchers and poulterers. The third side consists of a spacious covered area, two hundred and thirty-two feet long, for the fruiterers and dealers in vegetables, opening on the central court by an arcade at several points. The south side is open to the street, but separated from it by a long iron palisading, in which there are two entrances for waggons. The market was built at the expense of the corporation, and opened No- vember 20th, 1826, from the designs of William Montague Esq., the city architect, who with a deputation of the Improvement Committee, visited Paris and other places to see the best markets. The ex- pense of the erection was £30,000, but the purchase of the site, the buildings which stood upon it, and the right of the occupiers, cost the city about £200,000. This is the largest market for water cresses in London it being fre- guented by at least five-sixths of the itinerant venders. . LONDON. HUNGERFORD MARKET, Strand, near Charing Cross. Erected in 1832, from the designs of Mr. C. Fowler. The site of the old market havmg been purchased by a company of proprietors, incorporated by Act of l?arliament,_in 1830. The river front is an elegant structure the Wings of Whlch are occupied as taverns; the colonnades of that portion being devoted to the fish market, whilst the part nearest the Strand, which consrst of the great hall, central avenu‘:i and clolctmnades, is devoted to the r oses of a meat and "veneta e mar 'e . PuSlime the erection of the zDSuspension Bridge, and the plying of the cheap steam boats and omnibuses, this .market has become ofimuch more importance, from the great additional number of persons who daily frequent it. . . Steam boats for all parts of the river leave every five minutes and omnibuses to all parts of London, constantly pass the Strand entrance. ____——— NEWGATE MARKET, Is. situated in a quadrangle lying between Newgate Street and Pater- noster Row. It is nearly two hundred feet from east to west, and one hundred and fifty feet from north to south, with a market house, and a. clock and bell-turret in the centre ; and capacious vaults and cellar- age below. The houses forming the outside of the square, are occupied by butchers, poulterers, and salesmen; and the centre by poulterers, buttermen, and tripe dealers. From its confined and ill-chosen situ- ation, it is productive of considerable inconvenience to the public. The streets in the immediate vicinity being usually completely blocked up by the butchers’ carts, on market days, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. . THE MARKETS. 0) c: 921 COVENT GARDEN MARKET, Situated between the Strand and Long Acre, in what was formerly a garden, belonging to the abbot and monks of the Convent of West. minster, when it was called Convent Garden, and by corruption Covent Garden. At the dissolution of the religious houses, it was given to Edward, Duke of Somerset, but on his attainder, again reverted “to the crown ; and Edward VI. granted it in 1552, to J ohn; Earl of :Bedford, together with a field called the Seven Acres, which being built upon for a street, was from its length called Long Acre. The present market was built in 1830, at the expense of the Duke of CBedford, the ground landlord, '_from the designs of William Fowler, 1‘3qu and is most substantially built with granite columns, and other durable materials; it consists of a colonnade on the exterior, under which are the shops, each with a sleeping-room above. Joining to the back of them is another row of shops facing the inner court, and lthrough the centre runs an arched passage, sixteen feet wide, with Bhops on either side. This passage is the favourite promenade of [those who visit Covent Garden after the rougher business of the market is over; and here may be seen, throughout the year, the most rare fruits, flowers, and culinary vegetables. “Few places,” observes a well known writer, “surprise a stranger more, than when he emerges suddenly from that great, crowded, and noisy thoroughfare—the Strand— and finds himself all at once in this little world of flower.” In January, bouquets of geraniums, Chrysanthemums, euphorbias, and other flowers, may be had at two shillings and Sixpence, and five Shillings each, and violets at Sixpence a bunch. oThe market days are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, but the utter is the principal. The tell for potatoes, the market for which ' nts Tavistock Row, is Is. 2d. per ton; on vegetables, 1s. per wagon. {536 7 ONDON. BILLINSGATE MARKET, Thames Street, adjoining the Custom House. This well known mar- ket has recently been considerably enlarged, from designs by Mr. Banning; the first stone having been laid on the 25th of October, 1849. It is in the Italian style of architecture, simple but elegant in character, designed to correspond with the new Coal Exchange, erected by the same architect. The river front, extending from Nicholson’s Wharf to the Custom House Quay, is one hundred and seventy feet long, and one hundred feet deep. Fish of all kinds, in season, are on sale here daily; the market opens at five o’clock in the morning. TATTERSALL’S, Grosvenor Place, approached by a narrow lane, at the side of St. George’s Hospital. This celebrated mart for the sale of horses, de- rives its name from its founder, Richard Tattersall, originally a train- ing groom to the second and last Duke of Kingston, and afterwards owner of the famous race horse, Highflier, the purchase of which laid the foundation of his future fortune. All horses intended for sale must be sent here on the Friday before the day of sale, which is on Mondays throughout the year, and on Thursdays during the height of the London season; Sunday afternoon being the fashionable; tigie for visiting the stables, Which are kept in the most admirable 01' er. HOTEL AND TAVERN ACCOMMODATION. ' 337 CHAPTER XXUI. HOTEL AND TAVERN ACCOMMODATION. Whoe’er has travell’d over life’s dull round, VVhere’er his stages may have been, May sigh to think he still has found The warmest welcome is an inn.—SHENSTONE. London, profuse in every thing, is replete with accommodation for the stranger, and occasional resident. Here the man of fortune may dwell in a style Of princely grandeur; and here also, strange, but true, the less prosperous individual may live on less money than in almost any other part of the kingdom, so varied is the nature of the accom- modation and the style of charges. Strangers who arrive in London by a late train, or by steam boat, unless they are previously provided with accommodation, through the agency Of .a friend, will find it the most convenient and economical mode, to proceed at once to one Of the nearest respectable hotels or taverns for the night, Of which there are several in the immediate vicinity Of the Railway Termini. They will then be able, the follow- ing morning, to make such enquiries as may be necessary, and proceed to that part of the metropolis the most convenient for them, and where they may make such arrangements as the length of their intended stay in London may require, if their stay is intended to be short, a central situation near to Charing Cross will be found the most con- venient. It will invariably be found to be the case, that the more respectable the house at which the traveller stops, the greater comfort will he enjoy, while the viands are frequently of a superior order, the charges will be found equally moderate in proportion to the accommodation afforded. We shall now proceed to notice briefly, some Of the more important features in hotel and tavern accommodation, which distinguish the metropolis, merely premising, that the nature of our work prevents us from attempting any thing like, a detailed account of so extenswe a subject. HOTELS. In all the principal hotels, inns, and boarding houses, visitors may, as inclination prompts them, reside either in private apartments, or mix with the general company. Many of the hotels at the \Vest- end, as the Clarendon, New Bond Street; Mivart’s, Brook Street and Davies Street, Grosvenor Square; Fenton’s, St. James’s Street; and Wright’s, Down Street; are of a magnificent description; and afford residences to dignitaries of the highest rank, during transitory visits.. The rate of charges at such establishments, is of course high, but fully warranted by the nature of the entertainment provided. In and about Covent Garden are several highly respectable hotels, for families and gentlemen, as the Old and New Hummums; the Bedford; the Tavistock; and Richardson’s Hotel; the last, celebrated for its wines. In the city hotels, the accommodation afforded is equally respect- able, though not on so grand a scale, and their charges are far more moderate; many of them supply bed, breakfast, dinner, and supper, With the use of the coffee-room, at all times, for six or seven shillings a day. \Vines and spirits are always charged for separately, according . to a printed list. At the “Test-end hotels, a sitting room and bed room, are usually charged from half a guinea to a guinea per day; sometimes double that sum, or even more. It is always desirable, at hotels, inns, &c., by calling for the bill on the earliest suitable occasion, to as- certain the rate of charges. These are exceedingly various; but the following may give some idea of them :— s. D s. D Breakfasts are charged from . . 1 6 to 6 O Dinners . . . 2 6 “ 14 0 Tea or Coffee . 1 6 “ 3 0 Beds . . 1 6 “ 5 O The waiter and chambermaid generally expect about a shilling a day, and the boots, Sixpence. TAVERNS In and about the metropolis are various large and highly respect- able taverns, at. each of which gentlemen are lodged in a comfortable manner; but they are principally designed for accommodating dinner and festive parties. Among the most important of these may be mentioned the City of London Tavern, Bishopsgate Street, celebrated for the numerous public meetings and charitable dinners held there; the Albion, Aldersgate Street—the head quarters of the booksellers; the Thatched House, St. James’s Street; Freemason’s Tavern. Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s Inn Fielda; the British Coffee House and :rl‘a'gern, “gellispur Street; and the London Cafi'ee House and Tavern, Lungs“ Mal“. ~‘VU ' EL AND AVE‘RN CCOMMODATION. 339 RAILWAY HOTELS. The discontinuance of the coaching system, consequent on the in- troduction of railways, has produced a very marked change, not only in the appearance of the streets of London, but in the appointment of the numerous inns, once so famous throughout the country, as the {head quarters of provincialists. While many of those houses have sunk into comparative obscurity; a few of them yet retain their ancientprestige, being still conducted on a liberal scale, combining comfort and economy in an eminent degree; in addition to these old established houses, there have sprung up near most of the railway termini, one or more hotels, of first- rate pretensions, and in which the casual visitor will find every ac- icommodation. The most important hotels of this class, are the Euston and Vic- toria, Euston Square; the Golden Cross, Charing Cross ; the Clarence, Aldersgatc Street; the Bull, Aldgate; and the Spread Eagle, ‘Gracechurch Street. At Salter’s Hotel, Victoria Street, Snow Hill, excellent accommodation may be had, coupled with moderate charges. COMMERCIAL BOARDING HOUSES. For the accommodation of those whose habits or inclination lead ithem to prefer greater privacy than an hotel affords, will be found inumerous establishments of a highly respectable character, and, "in 'ggeneral, conducted on excellent principles. . These houses are much frequented by commercial gentlemen, Who ivisit London for a few days, for business purposes, and are chiefly isituated in the neighbourhood of Cheapside. Mrs. Randalls’s, King iStrect, is a highly respectable house of this class, the accommodation :at which is excellent, and the charges moderate. PUBLIC HOUSES. These houses, which from the splendour of their fittings up, and the dazzling brilliancy of their appointments. are usually called “-Gin I«.Palaces,” cannot fail to attract the stranger’s notice. In number there . is considerably more than five thousand, regularly licenced, besides a :great number of other houses, which do not properlycome under ithis designation ; as the Alton ale and beer shops. ' In some of the largest gin palaces, the exterior and the interior :are alike brilliant: on the outside arc ranged large and splendid gas: Elamps, whilst in the interior, elegantly formed branches of pipes [descend from the ceiling, or ascend from the counter, and yield a vast {number of gas flames; and the bar furniture, such as the counter, and Ibeer and spirit machines, are all of the finest workmanship, and of the highest polish. CHOP HOUSES, These are a class of houses much frequented by lawyers and men of business, at which only steaks, chops, kidneys, and sausages, with potatoes are dressed. The most noticeable of which, are the Rainbow, 15, Fleet Street; Dollamore’s, the Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Court. Fleet Street; the Cock. 201, Fleet Street, also celebrated for its stout and oysters; and Joe’s, Finch Lane, Cornhill. A-LA-MODE BEEF, AND BOILED BEEF HOUSES. The most noted of these establishments, which are celebrated for the excellent quality of their articles, and the cheap rate at which a good dinner may be obtained, are Balls’s, King Edward Street, N ew- gate Street; \Vilkinson’s, Gracechurch Street ; Alexander’s, Tichborne Street; and ‘Villiams’s, Old Baily. COFFEE HOUSES. If the numberless cofi‘ee-rooms aboundng in London, those of a higher grade, will bear comparison with the hotels and club houses for respectability, comforts, and even luxuries. Some assume a mer- cantile character, having emerged from original insignificance, to become the rendezvous of merchants, as Garraways, the Jerusalem, and the J amaiea cofi’ec-1‘001ns,'in Cornhill; Deacon’s, inZlValbrook; and Peel’s, in Fleet Street. The first mentioned claim a superior title to that of coffee-houses, being in fact like Lloyd’s—commercial rooms, open expressly for the transaction of a varied description of business : thus, the Jerusalem is a well known arena for shipping business; Garraway’s, for puplic sales of imports; whilst Deacon’s and Peel’s, are principally known as advertisement media, and for the means of access they afford to files of newspapers, whether colonial, foreign, metropolitan, or provincial journals. There are also a very numerous class of Coffee Houses, of a much more humble, though of a lnghly useful nature, at which cups of ready-made tea and coffee, with slices of dressed meat, may be ob- tained at very moderate prices, and where all the most important London newspapers may be seen. These houses, which are chiefly resorted to for breakfast, and in the evening, have had a very bene- ficial effect on the habits of the industrious classes, whose circum- stances prevent them from takiug their meals at home. The refresh- ments at the more respectable of these houses, are served in stylish China ware, by genteel, and well-conducted waitresses, who expect a gratuity of one penny. THE CLUB HOUSES. 341 CHAPTER XXI. THE CLUB HOUSES. These establishments, which have of late years assumed a splendour un- known to the ideas of their originators, are the resorts of the political, fashionable, and literary characters, for the purposes of conversation, reading, or refreshment. Persons desirous of admission, must be proposed by mem- bers, and ballotted for. The subscriptions vary. according to the character of the Club, from twenty to thirty guineas entrance, and from five to ten guineas per annum. The Clubs of London, have had a very decided influence on the state of society, and on the interests of hotels and taverns. These once flourishing resorts of men in the upper grades of society have been abandoned for the club houses, where} the advantages of co- operation have been so conspicuously displayed, that the humbler purveyors of comfort have sunk in the unequal contest, and their establishments are now frequented by scarcely any other than tem- porary sojourners. The effect of this change on the domestic characters of these grades is conspicuous; those who have discovered sources of gratification where a moderate expenditure ensures a splendid enter- tainment, cannot help contrasting the sober hue of domesticity with the cheerful and inspiriting tone of extended communion. To such as possess homes without the usual endearing associations, club houses present advantages not to be resisted; and, we accordingly find their comforts fully appreciated, and their affairs highly prosperous. THE UNION, South-west corner of Trafalgar Square. Erected in 1824, from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, ILA. It is a plain substantial building, in the Grecian style, and forms, in connection With the College of Physicians, a continuous frontage to T rafalgar Square. lThe members consist of merchants, lawyers, and members of parliament. 4 Z 342 LONDON. THE UNIVERSITY. Sufl'olk Street, Pall Mall. Erected in 1824, from designs by Messrs. J. P. Gandy Deering, and IV. \Vilkins: and exhibits a tasteful com- bination of the Grecian, Doric, and Ionic orders; as regards the latter, it is a copy of the triple temple of Minerva, Pallas, and Pandroseus, at Athens. Being a corner house, it has the advantage of two fronts, both of which are raised on a rusticated sub-basement, which is oc- cupied by the ground-floor. The entrance-front, next Sufl’olk Street, has an enclosed portico, or porch, to the ground-story, and a series of antae in correspondence with those which appertain to the columns in the principal front, in Pall Mall East, which is distinguished from the one next Suffolk Street by a tetrastyle portico, of the Ionic order, selected from the splendid specimen, the Ery Erechtheium, at Athens. The members belong to the two Universities of Oxford and Cam- bridge. THE UNITED SERVICE, 116, Pall-Mall. Erected in 1826, on the site of Carlton Palace, from designs by Mr. Nash. It is of the Doric order, with a noble portico of eight double columns, forming the entrance; and is one of the most commodious of the London club houses. It contains two rooms, one hundred and fifty feet by fifty, and is altogether splendidly fur- nished, containing a finer collection of paintings than any other establishment of a similar nature. In the entrance-hall is a statue of the Duke of York, by Chan trey; and round the gallery are pictures of the Battles of \Vaterloo, by G. Jones, R.A., and Trafalgar, by C. Stanfield, R.A.; also portraits of the Duke of Wellington, by Robinson; Lord Nelson, by Jackson: Sir John Moore, by Robinson, after Sir '1‘. Lawrence, R.A. ; and Lord Exmouth, by Lane, also after Lawrence. In the house dinner room, are portraits by Lord Rodney, by Bullock ; Sir Ralph Abercrombie, by Colvin Smith; and a representation of Rodney’s memorable engagement, of April 12th, 1782, a conflict which lasted nearly eleven hours, “the battle being the severest that was ever fought at sea, and the most glorious for England; ” and a colossal bust of the Duke of Vl’ellington, by Pistrucci. The Library is a magnificent apartment, enriched with portraits of several sovereigns, chiefly the gift of Earl de Grey ; amongst which may be noticed James I., by \Valton, after Vansomer; James II. and Charles II. ; William III. and Queen Mary, by Kneller; Prince George of Denmark, by Dahl; Queen Anne ; George I., by Kneller; George II., by Zeeman; George III., by Robinson, after Sir IV. Beechey, R.A.; George IV., by Sir M. A. Shee, R.A., after Sir T. Lawrence, R.A. ; William IV., by Simpson; and her present Majesty, by Grant: also portraits of Prince Albert, by Lucas; Lord Hill, by H. W. Pickersgill, R.A.; and Lord Collingwood, by Colvin Smith. THE CLUB HOUSES. 343* In the map room is a portrait of. Lord Saumarez, by S. Lane, and in the card room are portraits of General Lord Lynedoch, by Sir T. Lawrence, R. A. ; and of Earl de Grey, by H. W. Pickersgill, R. A.; and marble busts of William IV., by Joseph; and Lord Nelson, by Flaxman. . In the billiard room is a curious portrait of Christophe, King of Hayti, by M. Lamothe Duthiers, a native Haytian artist. ————— THE ATHEN/EUM, North-east corner of Pall Mall. Instituted in 1826, for the associa— tion of individuals known for their scientific or literary attainments, artists of eminence, in any class of the fine arts, and noblemen and gentlemen, distinguished as liberal patrons of science, literature, and the arts. The present handsome edifice was erected in 1829, on the site of Carlton Palace, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton, and cost, with the furniture, about £45,000 It is in the Grecian style of architecture. Over the portico is a copy of the statue of Minerva, by Bailey; and round the sides of the building is a copy of the frieze of the Parthenon, by Henning, representing the Panathenaic procession. In the library is a fine unfinished portrait of George IV., by Sir T. Lawrence, RA. ; the last work upon which that celebrated artist was engaged. JUNIOR UNITED SERVICE, North corner of Charles Street, Regent Street. Erected in 1828, from designs by Sir Robert Smirke, RA. The front is adorned with a basso-relievo, representing Britannia distributing rewards to naval and military heroes, executed by Six R. W estmacott, ILA. Its staircase and various apartments are spacious and elegant. The whole is beautifully and appropriately ornamented. —————- THE TRAVELLERS’, 106, Pall Mall. Erected in 1832, from designs by Mr. Barry. It is in the Italian style ; in some respects similar to a Roman palace. The plan is a quadrangle, with open area in the middle. The prmcrpal feature on the exterior in Pall Mall, is a bold and rich cornice, which finishes the wall of the front. The windows are decorated with Corinthian pilasters. The Carlton Terrace front varies somewhat from the original one; but the Italian taste is preserved throughout. No person is eligible as a member, who has not travelled out. of the British Islands, a distance of at least five hundred miles from London in a direct line. q Z .. 844 LONDON. THE REFORM, 105, Pall Mall. Erccted in 1839, in the style of the Italian palazzos, from designs by Charles Barry, Esq., at a cost of £50,000, and is one of the largest and most palace-like structures erected of late years in the metropolis; “not so much on account of its size, or its pretensions, with respect to decoration, as for the grandeur and gusto with which it is treated throughout; and for the dignified simplicity which stamps it, and which is utterly free from any of that littleness, poverty, meanness, and coldness which by those who do not under- stand what simplicity is, are generally mistaken for it.” The design consists of three uniform facades; those facing the north and south being one hundred and twenty feet in length; that on the west about one hundred and ten feet, the two former having nine windows on a floor, the other eight. The principal front, towards Pall Mall, has a lofty door, to which there is an ascent of several steps, and the win- dows on the principal floor are more decorated than those on the south front, having Ionic columns, whereas on the north they have ‘ only pilasters, otherwise all the elevations are uniform, a circumstance that conduces materially t0 grandeur of character, by increasing the continuity of the design and mass of the building, when two of the sides are seen at the same time. In the interior are portraits of the leading Reformers. The club consists of one thousand members exclusive of members of either House of Parliament. ‘ -’ THE CLUB HOUSES. 345 THE CARLTON, 103, Pall Mall, South sine. This handsome building was erected in 1847, from the designs of Mr. Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. Its general appearance is adapted from the Library of St. Mark, Venice. The fronts are of Caen stone; the shafts of all the pillars and pilasters are of polished Aberdeen granite, the red tint of which has a very _ striking effect. The front in Pall Mall is one hundred and thirty- three feet in length, and seventy feet in height. Only a portion of the new building has as yet been erected. NAVAL AND MILITARY, Pall Mad. A noble structure, erected in 1849, from designs by Messrs. Parnell and Smith. Although the design is based on that of the Cornaro palace, built by Sansovino, in 1532, on the grand canal in Venice, it differs very materially from that structure. The archi- tects, adopting the general arrangements of the ground-floor'and first-floor elevation of that palace, have substituted coupled Corinth- ian columns for the Ionic of the latter; and have terminated the building with the entablature of the order, highly enriched with sculpture; and a balustrading as at the “Library,” and others of Sansovino’s buildings. ,Lu'l ‘ " *géndggxw -.‘ '1 OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY, 71, Pall Mall. A handsome elevation, erected in 1838, from designs by Mr. Sydney Smirke, A.R.A.; it is adorned With some fine basso- relievos, by Nicholle. 346 LONDON. Mllilifli - . . ,—I!'-_'..P'..-~~ ' film . . :17 . v I I .1 l is .:r #._~_= 3— 2—‘L’—'— ”y . "" , A—P‘ «Ifififiiulflgflmwflflflw _—; n. 1», .. g I :3— gussAckl‘d THE CONSERVATIVE, St. James’s Street. Erectedin 1844, on the site of the Thatched- House Tavern, from designs by Mr. Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. and Mr. George Basevi, jun. The front consists of two stories, or orders; the lower rusticated, and without columns, except at each wing. The upper story- is Corinthian, and consists of entire but attached columns and pilasters, upon the usual prodium, and having the entablature surmounted b a balustrade. In the intercolumniations are windows, with enriche dressings and pediments. Over the windows, and ranging with the capitals of the celumns, is a frieze of sculptured foliage, having the imperial crown, enriched by an oak-wreath oc- casionally introduced. The interior is magnificently decorated, and the apartments, im- posing for their spaciousness, are at once convenient and surpassingly elegant in their arrangements and architectural enrichments, they consist of a morning room and house dining room, on the ground floor; and an evening and drawing room, with card room and library on the upper. 'l he fittings and furniture throughout are of the most costly description. The hall, staircase, and upper vestibule, form a splendid group of interior architecture, the decorations having been ably executed under the direction of Mr. F. Sang, and assistants. The arrangements in the basement, and in the entrance over it, are also of the most complete kind. THE CLUB HOUSES. I 347 ARTHUR’S, 69, St. J ames’s Street. Derives its name from the original proprietor. It was rebuilt in 1827. The front is of stone, and presents a rusti- cated basement of five antaas, above which are six columns of the Corinthian. order, supporting an entablature, cornice, and balustrade. BROOKS’S, 60, St. J ames’s Street, corner of Park Place. A handsome building, ornamented with Corinthian pilasters: built in 1778, by Henry Holland, Esq., architect. Among the many eminent men who have been members of this club, may be named C. J. Fox, Selwyn, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Garrick, Horace Walpole, David Hume, and Sheridan. BOODLE’S, ‘28, St. J ames’s Street. A subscription house of long standing and first-rate respectability. Gibbon, the historian, dates many of his letters from this club. WHITE’S, 37 and 38, St. James’s Street. Established as a Chocolate House, in 1690. A handsome building, erected from the designs of James \Vyatt, Esq. In by-gone days the club was famous for the im- mense amount of gambling carried on here. ————_ NAVAL, MILITARY, AND COUNTY SERVICE, 50, St. James’s Street, late Crockford’s. Erected in 1827, from de- signs by Messrs. B. and J. Wyatt. The front drawing-room is a splendid apartment, having an entire frontage, in St. J ames’s Street, of fifty feet long by forty feet wide richly decorated in the style of Louis Quatorze. THE GUARDS, 70, Pall Mall, A narrow, lofty, yet pleasing exterior. The members consist of the officers of the Household Troops. 518 Loxnoa THE ALFRED; 23, Albermarle Street. Established in 1808, and limited to six hun- dred members. “I was a member of the Alfred,” says Lord Byron, in his journal, “it was pleasant; a little too sober and literary, and bored with Sotheby and Sir Francis D’Invernois; but one met with Peel, and WVard, and Valentia, and many other pleasant or known people; and it was upon the whole a decent resource in a rainy day, in a dearth of parties, or parliament, or in an empty season.” THE ORIENTAL, 18, Hanover Square. Founded in 1826, by Sir John Malcolm; and is composed of noblemen and gentlemen, who have travelled or re- sided in Asia,‘ at St. Helena, in Egypt, at the Cape of Good Hope, the Mauritius, or at Constantinople ; or whose official situations con- ' nect them with the administration of our Eastern government, abroad or at home. Amongst the numerous portraits of eminent men, which the club possesses, may be noticed Lord Clive, Sir Eyre Coote, Stringer Law- rence, Sir David Ochterloney, Sir G. Pollock, Sir W. Nott, Mount. stuart Elphinstone, Sir H. Pottinger, and the Duke of Wellington. THE PARTHENON, 16, Regent Street, adjoining the Gallery of Illustration, formerly the house of John Nash. Esq., the architect, under whose direction the improvements in Regent Street andRegent’s Park were carried out. THE ERECHTHEUM, St. J ames’s Square. A kind of junior Atheneum, established in 1839. This club house, which stands on the site of Romney House, was formerly occupied by Mr. Wedgewood, so celebrated for his “ware.” THE GARRICK, 35, King Street, Covent Garden. Instituted in 1834, as a club for those connected with the drama. Here is to be seen the finest col- lection of theatrical portraits extant, chiefly collected b the late Charles Mathews, and now the property of a member 0 the club; they are on view every \Vednesday, and may be inspected by the personal introduction of a member. THE CLUB HOUSES. 349 THE GRESHAM, King \Villiam Street, corner of St. Swithin’s Lane. This elegant structure was erected in 1844, from designs by Mr. Henry Flower. architect, for the accommodation of the members, consisting of mer- chants and bankers of the city. THE CITY, 19, Old Broad Street. Established in 1833, for the accommodation. cf merchants, bankers, and ship-owners. It is a handsome building, erected on the site of the Old South Sea House, from designs by Mr. Hardwicke, at a cost of £8,000. CLUB CHAMBERS, Regent Street. This chastely-elegant building was erected in 1839, from designs by Mr. Decimus Burton, at a. cost of £26,000. It is in the Italian style of architecture, and occupies a frontage of seventy- six feet; and contains seventy-seven sets of chambers, exclusive of rooms for gentlemen’s servants. ' On the ground-floor is a coffee and reading room, and a. superior dining room. 350 LONDON. CLIAPTER XXII. THE INSURANCE OFFICES. —— “What the Club is to the street architecture of the West-end, the Assur- ance office is to the City; and the edifices devoted to the more useful purposes of life, it is pleasing to see, are not inferior to those which are only the ap- pendages of luxury. Indeed, the range of Assurance offices in London, constitute in its architectural, as well as in its moral aspect, a characteristic of which England may be proud. The foreigner has hitherto envied us our charities, our parks, and our clubs; he will now have another feature in the phsyiognomy of London, which suggest honourable associations in connection with the private and domestic habits of the professional and middle classes, and testifies to the earnest and provident Care of those to whose comfort their lives have been devoted.” There are probably few classes of edifices in the metropolis, which more strikingly arrest the attention of the stranger, or more deeply interest the thoughtful mind, than the numerous Insurance Oflices, which occupy the most prominent situations in the leading thorough-~ fares of the city and the west end. These admirable institutions, many of which possess architectural features of great beauty, although but of comparatively recent origin, have, from the sound and healthy principles on which they are conducted, attained to a degree of sta- bility and prosperity, that whilst it imparts full confidence to those who have already availed themselves of their benefits, holds out the most satisfactory inducement to the vast number of individuals who have, as yet, neglected to avail themselves of them. The businesses of Life Assurance, and Insurance against loss by Fire, is entirely carried on in offices established for that purpose. The care of the latter in providing engines and firemen, the known honour of the governors and directors, and the general respectability of the establishments, have destroyed all possibility of competition by in- dividual means. The Assurance of Life, partly from its being less understood, and partly from its requiring a larger immediate outlay, is less exten- sively practised than Insurance against Fire. But its greater im- portance, as it regards the interests of surviving families. cannot fah THE INSURANCE OFFICES. 351 to suggest itself to every prudent mind, as affording the means of insuring an adequate provision against loss of life, from unlocked for disease or accident ; and thus securing to the widow and the father less, a certain consolation in the hour of their deepest distress. It is therefore gratifying to know that the worth of Life Assurance is becoming daily more and more understood; and the time, we hope is not far distant, when its practice must become almost universal. It is useful to all classes and conditions of men, chiefly so to the middle and poorer classes; but the greater portion of the immense multitude who gain their living by their own exertions, have yet to learn the power of th- pence. Few fathers of families consider how very cheaply they can protect from want, in case of sudden be- reavement, those who are dependant upon their habitual labours. To all who depend on personal exertion, or on incomes terminable at death, Life Assurance is of the utmost importance, more especially to those moving in a sphere of society, whose offspring are not ex- pected to fill inferior stations—such as clergymen, professional men, oflicers in the army and navy, and individuals holding public situ- ations. But, in reality, there is no class, from the Sovereign to the tradesman, or from the peer to the peasant, who may not, to the ex- tent of their means, avail themselves of its benefits. or to whom it may not be highly advantageous. Indeed, the uses to which Life Assurance may be turned are almost 1nnumerable;—husbands may make provision for their widows; pa- rents may provide endowments for their children; possessors of entailed estates may provide for the younger branches of their fami- lies; creditors may compensate themselves for the loss which the death of their debtors might occasion; borrowers may secure. in case of death, a fund to repay the loan; holders of leases, dependent on a life, or lives, may provide a fund to meet the fine, increase of rent, or loss of capital, which may ensue; purchasers of annuities on the lives of others, may secure the capital laid out; all who have a pe- cuniary interest in the existence of a life, may guard that interest from total ruin through the failure of such life ; parents of daughters about entering the marriage state, may very easily and prudently cause the huband to assure his life, and thus make a provision for his young wife and family, who might otherwise be left destitute or a burden upon friends; and even the triumphs of science, in the rapid development of our wonderful railway system, has called Life Assur- ance to its aid, and for a few pence every railway traveller may insure a handsome provision for his family, in the event of an acci- ‘dent, happily of rare occurrence through the care of railway employees. The insurance of life in all cases is wise—in many, absolutely necessary—in some, an imperative duty. We say then to all persons having fixed incomes, and living up to the amount, it is a duty they owe to their families, to insure their lives as a future provision for their offspring. If they deprive themselves of a few of the luxuries they have been accustomed to enjoy; let them recollect, that it is for the ultimate advantage of those whom they hold most dear in the world, and whom it is their bounden duty to protect and provide for. 852 LON non . 1-, _‘ 53mm" "i." IMPERIAL FIRE AND LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY, Threadneedle Street, corner of Broad Street. This imposing struc- ture possessing two fronts, alike in general character, was erected in 1848, from the designs of Mr. John Gibson, and is one of the most important edifices which have been erected in the city for some years. The building is of Portland stone, in the style of the Italian palazzos, and is of an exceedingly ornate character, all the details being worked out with the most careful attention to effect and finish. The keystones to the lower storey windows and doorway, are all of marked excellence, differing from each other, and symbolizing the City, Power, Fire, Water, &c. These, and the bas-relievo of the armorial device of the company, the arms of England, Scotland, and Ireland, with figures personifying Commerce and Plenty, were executed by Mr. J. Thomas, whose works at the New Houses of Parliament, have obtained for him a well-deserved reputation. The \Vest—end office in Pall Mall, also possesses a very handsome‘ele- vation. The Imperial Life Insurance Company has been estannsned up- wards of thirty years, during which time it has paid to the Assured, on account of policies effected, a sum nearly equal to One Million sterling; and the annual Income arising from the Premium Fund now exceeds £100,000. . The Directors meet every \Vednesday, at one o’clock, in Old Broad street. Secretary, Samual Ingall, Esq. W“. “'7 ll llllllll “7.... ill \‘l :{5‘2 1;: — _~ 2" Li; | ‘ WW - l l - l llllllll llllll “I; " l ll ll lll l - my ;' _":'5'l:' m -llil: 02'. l t: i ’ $1 ' 2-3. L ._. ”5:153! "F; t —~ azég' ‘— MENTOR LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY, 2 and 3, Old Broad Street. This extensive and attractive building was erected under the architectural direction of S. W. Daukes, Esq. of Whitehall Place, and is a great ornament to the neighbourhood: it comprises the offices of the Mentor Life Assurance Company and the Railway Passengers Assurance Company, two excellent in- stitutions, although they are quite unconnected with each other. The Mentor offers to the public the many inestimable advantages secured by Life Assurance, on highly advantageous terms, and com- bines within its plan both the mutual or participating, and the pro- prietary or non-participating systems. In the mutual branch, the whole of the profits are divided among the holders of policies; the shareholders of the Company being entitled to no portion whatever of the profits of this branch, the policy-holders enjoying the same advantages as in a Mutual Assurance Society, with the additional security of a subscribed capital of £250,000. In the non-participating branch, peculiar and highly advantageous tables have been con- structed, which offer to insurers, the utmost benefits, consistent with sound principles and stability. Assurances may be effected daily; one of the Company’s Medical Officers attending at the otiice, at two o’clock, for that purpose. 354 LONDON. ii. . r c , I ‘v rq I i, 'I .n A I! -n_A wed—"Vs;- . ~-v_ I: , '1' . . . Z/ - _:// :1. LL." . Ali Hum .11 lull “‘1 .mufln llhi , -‘ ., wit-:11 luhlllll‘ llllllllllllll mmml lrlimum I‘l‘lllli'iilll\\l r—pT “ \ M: '==?._-— 37? " f” ll BANK OF DEPOSIT, National Assurance and Investment Association, 3, Pall Mall East. This Association, established in 1844, and empowered by a Special Act of Parliament, is composed of two distinct and separate branches: the one comprising the business of a Bank of Deposit for the Invest- ment of Capit 11, the othei the ordinary transactions of Life Assurance. The plan of the Bank of Deposit differs materially from that of ordina1y Banks, or Savings’ Banks, 1n the mode of investing Capital: ultimate profit and secuiity being the main objects regarded, the Boaid of Management principally employ their Funds 1n Loans upon vested Life Interests and other similar securities, and in the purchase of well-secured Reversions—a class of securities Which, although not immediately conv 91 t1ble, it is well known yields the greatest amount of profit, combined with the most pe1 feet safety. Managing Director, Peter Morrison, Esq. 356 LONDON. “it . 1F .' ~ p. UNITED MUTUAL LlFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY, 54, Charing Cross. Established in 184 9. This Society was one of the earliest to adopt the important principle of Indisputable Policies—a principle which is daily becoming more known and appreciated by the ublic. The Society is mutual, and the profits are divided annually among the members. At the annual meeting in 1854, the bonus declared was equivalent on the average to upwards of 1% per cent per annum on the sum assured, or 22 per cent on the premium paid. The Board meets on Thursdays at one o’clock. Resident Director, Thomas Pritchard, Esq. THE INSURANCE OFFICES. 357 .. ‘ ‘4 ’ ly" ~_ ,‘5 ' ' [F‘Qme _ MUTUAL LIFE A 39, King Street, Cheapside. Established in 1834, on the principle of mutual benefit to all the members assured: a system, the full advan- tages of which are now beginning to be thoroughly appreciated, and as a consequence, we find many of the old proprietary companies gradually approaching nearer to the mutual system, and offering to their members a larger share of the profits than usual; whilst some companies have entirely changed their proprietary form, and by paying off their shareholders have become purely mutual companies. In this society the members divide annually amongst themselves, in proportion to the number and amount of the premiums paid, the entire profits that have accrued during the preceding year, and every policy on which two premiums have been paid, entitles the holder to participate in the division. As a. proof of the right estimation of the sound principles on which this society is instituted, we find that the number of policies have increased from 882 in 1845 to 1247 in 1849, and whilst the amount insured in 1845 was £610,175, it had increased in 1849 to £828,090, i8. sufficient evidence of the confidence of the public and the souud mess of the principles on which it is conducted. The Directors meet every Wednesday, at two o’clock. Actuary, I'Samuel Brown, Esq. Aa ENGLISH AND CAMBRIAN ASSURANCE SOCIETY. For Life, Annuities. and Loans; 9, New Bridge Street, corner of, Bride Lane, Blackfriars: a handsome building in the Italian style, erected in 1850, from designs by a gentleman connected with the oflice.‘ This company, which affords the security of a large subscribed capital, addresses itself peculiarly to the middle and working classes, hitherto precluded by the arrangements of previous companies from: participating in the benefits of Life Assurance, granting polices for as small a sum as £25 in the Life department. One of the most. important principles. which essentially distin guishes this office, is that of accepting weekly and monthly payments, as well as quarterly, half-yearly, and yearly ones; by the former plan we.. find that £100 may be assured by a trifling weekly payment, (3031—, mencing at. as low aratc as 9d., and varying in amount with the age OB the assured; thus placing within the reach of the industrial classes, the: inestimable benefits of Life Assurance, hitherto almost exclusively con-- fined to those moving in a higher sphere of life. 359 THE INSURANCE OFFICES. 'l/I/IIII‘».’_.' ., . ~_ VIII/uh“ ' 27/ ,’ ”1,. x, \ {I’lb‘ n: -/IIIII 'I 71,. "/ I} GREAT BRITAIN MUTUAL LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY, 14, Waterloo Place, Regent Street. The offices of this company erected by G. Nash, Esq., in 1826, in occupy extensive premises making the new line of street loading from Pall Mall to the Re- gent’s Park, of which \Vaterloo Place forms a portion. This company was established in 1844, upon the improved and largely extended principle of mutual assurance, under which system, the whole of the profits are under the entire control of those assured, the accumulation is applied annually in reducing the amount of premiums on all policies of five or more years standing; in pursuance of which plan, we find that at the general meeting, held on the 9th of May 1850, a reduction of the premiums to the amount of £30 per cent. per annum, was made upon all policies which had been in. ex- istence five years and upwards. , There is a branch of both these offices at 52, King 'William Street, City; and the East India and London Company have also- establishments at the Presidencics of India, Ceylon, and Singcapore, _ where assurances can be effected. § ALLADIU M : :5 , k -_) _ - 1., g .- E = z % 3 K i . Z T: '; ‘ _ 1% t ; .‘ 3 g.- ‘3 l - 1 S :- \} , t l — § 5‘ ' q : Y 5’ r. I E ' um I v » r: ' " “3 . , a . ‘. [ff-f: a i A w; l x _... .J-lf; u\s=h§.5'/";/ " / _ . " PALLADIUM LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY, 7, \Vaterloo Place, Pall Mall, established in 1824. The steady in- crease in the number of policies issued, and the amount of premiums paid, is a sufficient proof of the sound principles on which this society is conducted; it divides four-fifths of its profits amongst the assured, and, in order to maintain its present prosperous condition, and secure a continuance of the public favour, ofiers the advantage of the lowest scale of premiums that can with safety be adopted, and undoubted security, guaranteed by a large capital, and an influential body 01 proprietors; whilst the long standing of the society, and the satis- factory results of its business, gives full confidence to those vvho already participate in its advantages, and holds out the greatest encouragement to all who intend to avail themselves of its benefits. From the last report of the Directors, we find that the annual amount of premiums, which in 1845 was £28,7 76, had increased in 1849 to £38,100. The Directors meet every Thursday at eleven o’clock. Actuary and Secretary, Jeremiah Lodge, Esq. THE INSURANCE OFFICES. 361 ' l 1 “iii!" I l 111.211 1 l ‘. -..1...-..--.' 1 [1IIH’1I1HWI ‘ SOVEREIGN LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY, 49, St. James’s Street, near Piccadilly. A neat and appropriate building, having a chaste and elegant elevation. This excellent institution, which has a large subscribed capital, divides its business into th1ee bianches; the assurance of lives, at as low a rate as is compatible with security , making advances upon the policies, to those insured 1n the office; and granting annuities, in a manner that includes many new and attractive features. Three- fourths of the profits a1e divided amongst those assured, thus giving all the benefits of a mutual society, in addition to the security afforded by the large capital of the company; all the po- licies issued are indisputable, the directors relying upon the strict- ness and p10bity with which the enquiries are made. Parties insured at this office have the advantage of being allowed to reside 1n any part of Euiope, without being called upon for any extra payment for the privilege; and at a small inc1eased rate, are allowed to p1oceed to any pa1t of the world. UNDER ...nunu|‘“ ROYAL NAVAL, MILlTARY, EAST INDIA AND GENERAL, LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY, 13, ‘Vaterloo Place, Pall Mall. Established in 1837, for the General Assurance of Lives. The main object of this Society being to extend the manifold advantages of Life Assurance to the residents in Tropical Climates, on conditions more favourable to the Assured than has hitherto been deemed practicable. To the members of the Navy and Army, and to all persons em- ployed in our Colonial posessions, who depend on Life Interests, it is peculiarly valuable; as it enables them to secure a {provision for their families, without materially abridging the comforts and conveniences which their station in life may render necessary, as some of the most respectable offices decline to Assure the Life of any person employed on actual service in any Naval or Military capacity. The Board meets every Friday at one o’clock. Secretary Joseph Cartwright Brettell, Esq. THE INSURANCE OFFICES. ' 363 Endowments for children are also granted, by which means a parent may with ease provide a marriage portion for his daughter, or a suffi- cient sum to enable him to establish a son in business. The board meets every Thursday at two o’clock. Consulting Actuary, F. G. P. Neison, Esq. : Secretary, H. D. Davenport, Esq. FIRE ENGINE ESTABLISHMENTS, The various Insurance Companies seeing the benefits likely to arise from mutual co-operation in cases of fire, united in 1833, in establish- ing the present Fire Brigade, a body of men, Whose fearless exertions in the suppression of fire and the rescuing those exposed to its ra- vages, have won for them a large measure of praise from all classes of the metropolis. The establishment is supported by eighteen of the principal Fire Insurance Companies, and the affairs of the association are managed by a committee, consisting of a director from each of the associated companies. There are fourteen stations, the most eastern being at Ratcliffe, and the most western near P01 tman Square. At the several stations are kept thirty-five engines, .for whose management about ninety men are employed. These men, known as the “ Fire Brigade,” wearing a characteristic uniform. are under the admirable manage- ment of Mr. Braidwood, the well-known superintendent. There are likewise two powerful engines floating on the Thames, belonging ‘to the establishment, one moored near to Southwark Bridge, and the other at Rotherhithe, near the Tunnel. —_———— FIRE ESCAPE STATIONS. The Royal Society for the Protection of Life from Fire, was established in 1843, and maintains twenty-seven fire-escape stations, half a mile distant from each other, throughout the metropolis, each of which is attended by a conductor throughout the night, who is well instructed in the use of the escapes. Since the formation of the society, the escapes have attended seven hundred and seventy-one fires, and have been the means of rescuing seventy-nine persons from the jaws of death. ' The expense of maintaining the conductors and stations, with in- spectors, is about £2,000 per annum, defrayed by voluntary contribu- tions, assisted by about £500 voted by the vestries of some eighty parishes. During the year 1851, 2-19 fires were attended, and through their means were instrumental in rescuing 24 different ”persons, at nine different fires. CHAPTER XXVI. THE RAILWAY TERMISL We have spoken of the magnitude of the metropolis, of its importance, of 3' its population, and its wealth; but all these give not so v1v1d an idea oft“ what London truly is, as is furnished by its Railway Termini—those gates .21 of the world! [I it?! -t' l .A -; '49ng 91523;! 1",” NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY, Euston Square. This stupendous undertaking, originally called the London and Birmingham Railway, was the first railway station erected in the metropolis, having been completed in 1838. The ex- tensive range of buildings for the immense passenger traffic, is ap- proached through a noble Propyleum, or architectural gateway, having four lodges connected With it, intermediate to which, and in connection With the Whole, are large, lofty, and ornamental gates, cast by J. J. Bramah. The Propyleum is from the designs of Philip THE RAILWAY TERMINI. 365 Hardwicke, Esq., and is a most successful adaptation of the Grecian Doric. The extreme length of the entrance is upwards of three hun- adred feet, and its total cost was £35,000. The columns of the main entrance are higher than those of any other building in London, _measuring from the pavement to the top of the columns, forty-four feet two inches; the diameter at the base being eight feet six inches. ‘ The public hall, erected in 1849, is also from designs.by Philip Hardwicke, Esq., and is a noble apartment, one hundred and twenty- , five feet six inches in length, sixty-one feet four inches in breadth, and sixty feet in height, having a gallery all round it. The walls are in imitation of granite; the ceiling is panneled, deeply recessed, fully enriched, and connected with the walls by boldly designed or- namented consoles. At the northern end of the hall, a bold flight of steps, ornamented with large columns in imitation of red granite, leads to the general meeting room, over the door of which is a sculp- tured group, by Mr. John Thomas, representing Britannia, with Mercury and Science, on either side. In the angles are eight alto- relievos, by the same artist, symbolizing London, Birmingham, Man- chester, Chester, N orthampton,:Carlisle, Nottingham and Liverpool. On the right of the hall, is the Lost Luggage Office, doorways of the various waiting rooms, and in the centre, a circular refreshment counter. PRIMROSE HILL TUNNEL, The general meeting room, is a handsome saloon, forty-five feet wide, and forty feet high, having a coved and panneled ceiling. It is calculated to accommodate four hundred persons comfortably. The board room, adjoining, is thirty-four feet six inches long, by twenty-seven feet two inches wide, wainscotted, adorned with Corin- thian columns, and contains an immense map of all the railways under the control of the board. The entire cost of these buildings, was £125,000. 366 JONDO‘N. The Booking Offices are on either side of the hall, one fifty-six feces by thirty-nine feet ten inches ; the other, sixty feet by forty feet si:e inches, each having a domical sky-light, twenty-eight feet in diameters There is a gallery round each office. The extensive station at Camden Town, one mile from Euston Square, is used for the accommodation of the heavy goods traflici‘ as also for coals and cattle. Here, likewise, are immense ranges on buildings, used for stabling the numerous locomotive engines, used on this portion of the line. This company, which is interested, either directly or indirectly, iii more than twelve hundred miles of railway, has stations at evem place of importance between London and Aberdeen; the most noticex able are Harrow, “Tolverton, Rugby, Coventry, Birmingham, Crewen Chester, Manchester, and Liverpool. GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY, Praed Street, Paddington, about five miles from the Bank. T hit; grand undertaking, projected by Mr. Brunel, on the principle of thd broad guage, to form a communication with the great towns of thd west of England, was opened, for short distances, in June, 1838 E and to Bristol in January, 1841. From the magnitude of the enginzx eering operations, and the great breadth of roadway, the expense 0;: its construction was enormous; a circumstance that may probably ac» count for the insignificant appearance of their London terminus, which is totally beneath the pretensions of this large and powerful companyv in marked contrast with the noble and important buildings of theiii great rival the North “Testern. . The principal stations of this company, and those in connection with it, are Windsor, Oxford, Swindon, Gloucester, Cheltenham, Bathfl Bristol, and Exeter. ————— GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, Maiden Lane, King’s Cross. This highly important line, originally? a . . . - " prOJected as a direct communication between London and dork, andi the most considerhle towns on the Great North Road, after surmount-l ing the most determined opposition from the old established com-I panics, is now rapidly approaching completion. That portion of then way between London and Peterborough, was opened in 1850, and the: site for the terminus at King’s Cross, cleared for the erection of the necessary offices. ; The principal stations on this line, are those of Royston, Hunting-1 don, Peterborouglt, Boston, and Lincoln ; and in ~connection wi 1 other lines, all the most important towns of the north. ‘ THE RAILWAY TERMINI. 367 'EASTER‘N 'A‘ND NORTH-EASTERN COUNTIES RAILWAY, Shoreditch. The spacious and handsome terminus of these companies, in the Italian style of architecture, was erected in 1843, and is an important ornament to this portion of the metropolis. These lines, which have obtained an unenviable notoriety, are con- nected at starting from Shor‘editch, but on reaching Stratford, diverge, the one proceeding to Colchester and IpSwich, the other to Cambridge and Norwich. They are now under one management, although originally two distinct lines. The most important stations are those of Newmarket, Cambridge, VVisbeach, Peterborough, Ely, Norwich, and Yarmouth. B LACKWALL RAlLWA Y, London Street, Fenchurch Street. This railway, projected for the pur- pose of affording quick and easy access to the East and West India Docks, and the densely populated eastern districts of London, is four‘ and a half miles in length, having its terminus at Brunswick Wharf, Blackwall; it is built upon brick arches, the greater portion of the way, and was remarkable until within a very recent period, from the fact of the carriages being propelled by an endless metal-wire rope, worked by means of stationary engines, at the Minories and Black- 'wall. This mode of transit being found too expensive, and liable to constant interruptions from breakage, it was abandoned in 1849, and the trains are now worked by ordinary locomotive engines. Some idea may be formed of the value of the property through which this line passes, from the circumstance that the portion between Fenchurch Street and the Minories, four hundred and fifty yards in length, cost £250,000. ‘ Steam Boats in connection with this line, leave the Brunswick Pier, Blackwall, for \Voolwich and Gravesend, every half hour, or :eftener, during the summer season. —— GREENWICH RAILWAY, ‘l‘ooley Street, London Bridge. This line, the construction of which was commenced in 1834, is remarkable as standing upon one contin- uous series of brick arches, extending in a direct line to High Street, Deptford, from which place it is continued, with a slight curve, across the Ravensbourne river, to its terminus, a short distance from the church of St. Alphage, Greenwich. Since its original formation, the viaduct has been considerably in- creased in width, for the purpose of afl'ord'ing accommodation to the Brighton, Dover, and North Kent lines, which use that portion of the LONDON. road for their approach to the London Bridge terminus, where eacs company has distinct station accommodation. Greenwich Fair—the Saturnalia of London—is held on the first three days in Easter and VVhitsun weeks, and is easily reached hi this railway, trains running every ten minutes, until a late hour. NORTH KENT RAILWAY, Tooley Street, London Bridge. This company, wnose offices form part of the numerous incongruous buildings known as the London; Bridge Railway Station, uses the Greenwich Railway for about twrv miles, whence it diverges to the right, and passes under Blackheatlr: by a spacious tunnel. There is also a terminus belonging to thin company, at the Bricklayer’s Arms, Dover Road. The most important stations on this line, are those of Blackheatl’ij Woolwich, Gravesend, Rochester, and Chatham. CROYDON AND EPSOM RAILWAY; Tooley Street, London Bridge. This short line was opened to Croy: don, June lst, 1839, and by an extension to Epsom, in 1848, thuu affording easy access to the countless thousands who throng thd Downs of Epsom on its memorable Derby Day. It was on this line that the Atmospheric system was tried, but: after a ruinous outlay, abandoned. _— BRIGHTON AND SOUTH COAST RAILWAY, T001ey Street, London Bridge. This line, projected by Sir Johmi Rennie, in 1836, after a parliamentary contest unexampled for itQ fierceness and costliness—the law expenses having been nearly: £200,000—was commenced in 1838, under the direction of MrJ Rastrick, and opened in September, 1841. _‘ The trains of this company run over the rails of the Greenwich and) Croydon companies to Croydon, at which point their own works: commence. A new and commodious station is now in course ofix‘ erection at London Bridge, for the accommodation of their vastly in—u creasing traflic, which, through the adoption of a liberal systemofi} cheap excursion trains, has rendered this line a great boon to the m-- dustrial classes, by enabling them, at a trifling charge, to enjoy the luxury of pure air, and the invigorating sea-breezes. , The most important stations are those of Reigate, HastingS, Brighton, \Vorthing, and Portsmouth. THE RAILWAY TERMINI. 369 SOUTH EASTERN RAILWAY, _ooley Street, London Bridge. This is essentially a pleasure line, aving its terminus at Dover, from which port, and Folkestone Har- " ur, steam-boats are in daily communication with Calais and Boulogne. This company travels over the lines of the Greenwich, Croydon, nd Brighton companies, as far as the Reigate junction, at which point eir own works commence, which were completed and opened through- ut, in February, 1844. . The principal places possessing peculiar attractions for excursionists, and easily reached by this railway, are Penshurst, the ancient residence ‘Df the Sydney's ; Hever Castle; Tunbridge Wells, and its mineral fWaters; Knowle, with its old park, and fine picture gallery; Can- :firbury, with its cathedral ; Ramsgate ; Margate; Folkestone ; and * over. The engineering works, beyond Folkestone where this line touches the coast, are of the most stupendous nature, consisting of tunnels, Bea walls, and excavations, of a highly interesting character. SOUTH WESTERN RAILWAY, Waterloo Road. This important and interesting line, which for some years had its terminus at Nine Elms, Vauxhall, was, in 1848, by means of its extension to the Waterloo Road, made much more avail- able for the pleasureLseeker, and the man of business, and a propor- tionate increase of the passenger traffic has been the result. It is in~ :tended to erect spacious and convenient ofiices for this company, on a. large plot of ground, having a frontage in the York Road, the present buildings being only of a temporary nature. This is one of the principal lines for pleasure traflic out of the me- tropolis, as by its means, visitors can be quickly and cheaply conveyed to the delightful horticultural gardens at Chiswick ; the noble botanic gardens at Kew, with its magnificent conservatory; to Richmond, with its charming park and scenery; to Hampton Court, with its Dnce Royal palace, its extensive picture gallery, and delightful gar- iens, with the glorious avenue of chestnut trees in Bushy Park, when in blossom, a sight, the beauty of which is unequalled ; and Windsor, {with its noble park, and truly regal castle, the only really kingly ltesidence in England. The most important stations of this company, are those of Kew, Rich- tnond, Hampton Court, Windsor, Guildford, F arnham, Southampton, Portsmouth, Gosport, Salisbury, and Winchester. The Isle of Wight, ith Osborne House, the marine residence of Her Majesty, is also cached by means of this line. We strongly advise parties reaching London by a late train, to pro~ at once into the Strand, in the neighbourhood of which Will be ound numerous highly respectable hotels. x... mflfluw‘C .YWNIIJ‘ 1..., Br”; , . _ 52:53... _ (If, , E . _. . 5.... S if} \.. $6639!» rggg LONDON TRADING ESTABLISHMENTS. 71 CHAPTER XXVI. LONDON TRADING ESTABLISHMENTS. m The shops of London are among the most suggestive of all subjects for ' reflection, if we choose to carry the eye of the mind a little beyond the mere external appearance of the commodities displayed therein, and think of the productive and commercial agencies by which those commodities have been placed at our disposal.—DODD. h..— The cities of London and Westminster, with their populous suburbs, abound with trading establishments, unequalled in any age, or by any nation; it is therefore our intention, in the present chapter, to notice some of the most extensive establishments Which distinguish the metropolis, and which from their commercial magnitude, or archi- » tectural importance, may justly be considered as an important feature of “London as it is to-day.” MESSRS. H. J. AND D. NICOLL, Merchant Tailors, Clothiers, and Paletot Patentees, 114, 116, 118, and 120, Regent Street. This eminent firm, Whose reputation as Mer- chant Clothiers, ranks the highest in the metropolis, possess one of the most striking and elegant establishments in London. Situated on the east side of Regent Street, its extensive frontage forms an architectural feature at once chaste and imposing, Whilst the taste displayed in the general design and ornamental decoration, bear unmistakeable evidence of the artistic feeling of the proprietors. The reputation of this firm is World-wide, as having been the original inventors and patentees of the Paletot, a gentlemanly and' fashionable garment, the convenience, comfort, and cheapnesss of which, has caused its universal adoption wherever the Saxon race has penetrated; and has obtained for it the patronage of the most distin~. guished members of the Aristocracy, as also that of His Royal High-- ness Prince Albert. The extensive \Vholesale and Shipping departments of the fi‘rm, are, carried on in the commodious premises, N o. 22, Cornhill, nearly Oppo- site the Royal Exchange, a situation admirably adapted to suit the convenience of Emigrants, Shippers, and Oflicers of the Merchant: serv1ce. - -- .. 0N DON. MESSRS. FARMER AND ROGERS, lndia, French, and British Shawl Merchants 171, 173, and 175, Regent Street. This by far the most important and palatial in its appearance, of any of the streets of London, and within whose limits the costliest merchandize, from every quarter of the globe is collected, boasts some of the most elegant and distinguished commercial establishments in the metropolis ; foremost amongst which may be named that of Messrs. Farmer and Rogers the eminent shawl and cloak manufacturers, whose handsome and spacious premises are justly considered the most re- cherche in this quarter of the metropolis. Here every thing is of the choicest and most attractive characcer; marble pillars supporting the roof, plate-glass mirrors lining the walls; Turkey carpets, covering the floor; elegant Chinese vases adorning the windows, whilst hand- some chandeliers shed their pearly light around, all denoting the refined taste of the proprietors, and their determination to maintain their position as leaders of the London Fashions. The wealthy and titled Lady may here purchase the choicest two hundred guinea shawl, from Cashmere, or the costly and delicately embroidered scarf, from China, whilst those ladies moving in a hum- bler sphere may meet with articles of first rate quality suited to their means, and with such polite attention as becomes the character of this renowned emporium. In the centre of the floor is placed an elegant polished steel stove, with lacquered ornaments, unequalled for the beauty of its form, and excellence of its workmanship, giving to the interior a warm and cheerful aspect, in unison with all around. LONDON TRADING ESTABLISHMENTS. 373 ‘553 ’- =5' 1 ‘. . 11711 H; 1711. I l 11 i! 1 . fl“ -. --.1-----ul.ll ”3'“. am 53 WGTAYLO - tr" —HALLIDAY whiff} _ with: Big; .N - '3. “__‘ , I:':"- =-:' 'j‘Jlg'hnl i i" .,11._ 1111117117117 17% ' 7' $11777 V ;, fiiiymfigfiflii. .21" ‘tL‘HL—Jk iE§+M~ MR. W. G. TAYLOR, LATE HALLIDAY, 53, «Baker Street, near Madame Tussauds’ celebrated Exhibition; Outfitter and Hosier to Her Majesty. This establishment originally carried on in Regent Street, has been removed to this favoured locality (being situated between the Regent and Hyde Parks), for conveni- ence of the connexion and magnificent neighbourhood, which has lately arisen in the western part of London. Here may be obtained every thing of the recherche character required by the higher classes in Marriage and India Outfits, Baby Linen, Childrens’ Dresses, Hosiery, Ladies’ Riding Habits and Trou- sers, and every article necessary for young gentlemen entering as- naval cadets. The system of naming the leading prices throughout the business, has been fully recognised by the proprietor of this establishment, and meeting universal approval, they are given in detail, at the end of this work. - Db a a ' ON DON. MR. CHARLES NOSOTTI, Looking Glass Manufacturer, Carver, Gilder, and Interior Decorator, Cabinet Fu1niture, Upholstery and Carpet Warehouse, 398, and 399, Oxford Street. These very extensive and beautiful premises have long been justly celebrated 1n this locality , and having lately undergoneD great alter- ations and enlargement, now form one of the most striking and attractive features in Oxford Street. 1 \The business which has been in the proprietors family for upwards of 30 yeais, is well known to the public for the \ery superior style of its Gilding, and fo1 the beautiful Crystal colou1 of the Glass em- ployed. The extensive and varied stock of the newest and best designs, got up in the very f‘n st style of wmkmanship, make these premises well worthy the inspection of visitors to London, or of parties fur- nishing or making alte1ations in the interior decoration of their houses. They will find here all the latest improvements and may rely on the work being tu111ed out in the best possible manner and at the most modeiate prices. \ LONDON TRADING ESTABLISHM ENTS. 375 Egg—21 —=E- i i ORTERSP E i 8 I 3‘). f; g ,. , ‘ -- -; .' — )4?- '1 _ MW ' MM]. MESSRS. PHILLIPS AND COMPANY, Tea Merchants, and Dealers in Coffee and Colonial Produce, 8, King William Street, City. One of the greatest boons that has recently been conferred upon all classes of society, is undoubtedly the reduction of the duty upon Tea. The beneficial effect of this measure is shewn in the superior quality of the article now supplied at a moderate price, and the public appre- ciation of it, fully evidenced, in the large and greatly increasing con- sumption consequent thereon ; which in 1853, had risen to the enor- mous quantity of 58,860,127Ib. The establishment of Messrs. Phillips and Company, situated in one of the most important City thoroughfares, has secured for itself' an houourablc preeminence, for the liberal and active efforts made by the firm, in extending the advantages of this beneficial measure, not only to the inhabitants of London, but also, through the facilities afforded by Railway communication, to residents in all parts of the Kingdom, who thus enjoy all the advantages of the London Market. - 376 Loxnox. \' . //. ’ "WI/a ale-2:" MESSRS. W. & J. SANGSTER, Parasol and Umbrella manufacturers, 140, Regent Street. There is perhaps no article of fashionable use, of which ladies are more choice in their selection, or which admits of greater variety in the style and quality of the material, than the parasol; originally derived from the East, where it was emblematical of kingly power, on its first introduction, it was only patronized by the higher classes, it is now however of universal use. Foremost amongst these favourite articles, must be named the Sylphide Parasol, light and graceful as its name implies, it has fully secured the favour of the fair sex, and may now be seen in all the most fashionable drives and promenades in and about. London; indeed, such has been the demand for this attractive parasol, that since. its introduction, the manufacturers have supplied no less than sixty thousand. The Patentees have just made a very important improve- ment in this most useful and indispensable appendage to a lady’s attire, rendering it still more graceful and convenient. Messrs. Sangster are also patentees of the much approved Alpaca Umbrella, of which upwards of seventy thousand have been sold. Y ms: 0 " ’I‘mmNG ESTABLISHMENTS. 377 I ;- ESTABLISHED l8!8.| HEAL&SON. REBUILT'1854. fl l .__E._________.l:_ : 'l JflLllnlL‘H MI in . n In! e:_J_v.; ll .1 l m m w a In - F. -‘ , Ff??? m.___.__ 1“- uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu llll'llllll ‘ V EOE®E©EI®EZ©E©E©EZGYZGE 27;; l ’32 ll-E‘v HE @E‘ rfillfli: I M ,—— M =:—__..____———, llllll u: :1 E l EIIHEE l? . lira: I is El :9 “ Ell’lll {ME v -<::.O:l-) m a- -:;L‘-)C> ‘5 i .r g } _ ' - la ; ;_ .__-- . -==