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TRAVELS

ON

THE CQNTINENT:
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USE AND PARTICULAR INFORMATION

01‘

TRAVELLERS.

BY MARIANA STARKE.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1820.

LANDSCAPE
ARCHHECTURE

LONDON:
rum» 3v moms mason, wmxrnuns.

Farrené Giff

 

”~53

ADVERTISEMENT.

AS some of the public prints have announced,
subsequent to the peace of 1814, a circumstance
very alarming to Travellers, namely, that dis-
banded soldiers, converted into banditti, infest
the post-roads of the south of France, the Alps,
Apennine, and countries bordering on those
mountains; especially the conﬁnes of the Roman
and Neapolitan territories situated between Ter-
racina and LIola-di-Gaéta; it may not, perhaps,
be superﬂuous to mention, that all the above-
named countries, except the tract between Ter-
racina and Mola, are now, and have long been,
exempt from so serious an evil. Highway rob-
beries, indeed, are quite as uncommon on the
Continent at present, as they were formerly: and
with respect to the banditti who have recently

infested the conﬁnes of the Roman and Neapo-
a Q

311

1V ADVERTISEMENT.

litan territories between Terracina and Mola, they
are not merely a troop of robbers who plunder,
because they have no other means of subsisting,
but a whole nation, the people of Abruzzo; who,
when at variance with the Pope and the King of
Naples, raise contributions upon Roman and Nea-
politan Travellers going post.- but with voiturins
these freebooters appear to be in perfect amity; as
persons who travel cn roituricr are never attacked :
and English Travellers, even when going post,
have rarely been robbed; unless owing to im-
prudence on their own part, or on that of their

attendants.

INTRODUCTION.

HAVING been called upon to publish a fourth
Edition of that part of my “ Letters from Italy”
which was intended as a Guidejbr Travellers, and
at the same time feeling how impossible it is to
give an accurate and circumstantial account of
any country, without residing in it, I determined
to revisit the Continent; and become an Eye Wit-
ness of the alterations made there, by the events
of the last twenty years: events which have so
completely changed the order of things, with re-
spect to roads, accommodations, and works of art,
that new Guides for Travellers are extremely
wanted in almost every large city of southern
Europe. I, therefore, resolved, instead of pub-
lishing a fourth Edition of my “ Letters from
Italy,” to write A NEW WORK: and being am-
bitious to prove myself a faithful historian, I spent
two years, namely, from May, 1817, to June, 1819,
in the countries it has been my endeavour to
describe; that I might write froin the spot, and
trust nothing to memory. I have also taken

vi INTRODUCTION.

especial pains, so far as my limited, knowledge
would allow, to point out to Travellers every
thing most likely to contribute to comfort; and
every thing best worth notice respecting works of
art: for general outlines may sometimes give just
ideas, even though not shaded by a master’s hand.

I have likewise mentioned, in my Appendix, a
few particulars relative to expenses at the present
moment on the Continent; that Families induced
by prudential motives to reside in foreign coun-
tries may neither have the mortiﬁcation of ﬁnding
their plans defeated by the extravagance of a
courier, nor by the impositions frequently prac-
tised upon Strangers.

Accommodations for Travellers, during the last
twenty years, have been materially augmented in
France, Switzerland, and Italy; by the increase
and improvement of inns, by the erection of ﬁne
bridges, which are almost universally substituted
for inconvenient and sometimes dangerous ferry-
boats, by the expense bestowed to make roads
smooth and level, which were formerly rough
and mountainous; and by the consummate skill
exerted to render those Alps which heretofore
were only practicable by means of mules, frai-
720aur, and clzaiscs-(i-porfczn', so easy of ascent
that post-horses, attached even to a heavy berlin,
now traverse them speedily and safely. With

INTRODUCTION. vii

such‘ judgment, indeed,“ have the sinuosities of
the Alpine roads been managed, that crane-neck
carriages, once absolutely requisite in passing the
Alps, are at present needless.

I cannot dismiss this subject without adding, as
a further proof of the great improvements which
have lately taken place, respecting roads on the
continent, that during a journey of ﬁfteen hun-
dred miles, through France, Switzerland, and
Italy, I never found it needful, except while
ascending the Alps and Apennine, to put more
than three horses to my own carriage, an English
landaulet, nor to carriages of the same description,
belonging to the friends by whom I was ac-
companied.

Other circumstances which contribute to the
comfort of travelling at the present moment on
the Continent are, the increase of ready furnished
lodgings in large cities; owing, in some measure,
to the poverty of the nobles; who often let their
palaces to foreigners; the improvement in me-
chanics, and consequently in furniture, throughout
Italy; the introduction of lamps, by which the
streets of every large town are tolerably well
lighted; and the stop put, by this circumstance,
among others, to the dreadful practice of assas-
smation.

Vlll INTRODUCTION.

But although the comfort of travelling has been
thus considerably augmented, the expense of' re-
siding on the Continent has been augmented like-
wise; owing to taxes which, in capital cities, are
oppressive; and still more owing to the great
inﬂux of British Travellers: nevertheless, as the
necessaries oflife are not materially enhanced in
price, it is still possible, nay easy, for persons
who understand and practise economy, to live
with comfort either in the French or Italian ter-
ritories, without incurring a much larger expense
than would have been needful twenty years ago.

With respect to modes of travelling to Italy, I
would advise consumptive persons either to go
by sea, in a vessel bound for Leghorn, thence
proceeding up the Canal of Pisa to that cit ’; or
by sea to Bordeaux, and thence proceeding, by
the royal Canal of Languedoc, to Marseilles;
where vessels bound for Leghorn may be heard of
daily.

Persons in health, who wish to travel economi-
cally, might ﬁnd their purpose answered by going
with the Voituriers belonging either to Dejean, or
Emery; whose carriages set out, almost every
week, from London, to various parts of the Con-
tinent; or by travelling in a public Diligence;
preferring that called the Cor/1e (l’t'au, whenever
attainable: but persons blessed with health and

INTRODUCTION. ix

afﬂuence should travel in their own carriage;
going post through France; and, generally speak-
ing, an t'oiturier in Switzerland and the Italian
States.

The most frequented post-road from Paris to
southern Italy is through Lyons, and over the
Mont Cenis to Turin, Bologna, and Florence:
but the most interesting route is that to northern
Italy, by Dijon, the J ura Alps, Geneva, and the
Simplon *.

Those persons, however, who wish to trace the
revival of the Arts, from the period when Gothic,
or, perhaps, more properly speaking, arabesque
architecture was brought by the Crusaders from
the Holy Land, and fostered at Pisa, should ﬁrst
visit that city ; proceeding afterward to Florence
and Rome: and in order to accomplish this pur-
pose, the best route from Paris is through Lyons,
Avignon, Aix, Nice, and Genoa.

Pisa may with truth be called the cradle of the
arts: for Buschetto, a Grecian, so early as the
eleventh century, erected the Cathedral which still
adorns this city; Diotisalvi, during the twelfth
century, erected the Baptistery; and Guglielmo,

" The road from Paris by the Simplon, and through Milan,
to Florence, is ninety miles shorter than that by the Mont Cenis
to Florence.

X INTRODUCTION.

a German, aided by Bonnano, Pisano, began the
Campanile about the year 1174.

Niccolo, Pisano, Giovanni, his son, and Andrea,
Pisano, revived the art of' Sculpture in the thir-
teenth century; and not only embellished the
buildings already raised, but likewise added an-
other, still more beautiful, the celebrated Campo-
Santo. In the beginning ofthe thirteenth century,
also, Giunto, Pisano, revived the art of Painting;
and was succeeded by Giotto, and Cimabue.

Those persons, therefore, who contemplate the
productions of the Greco-Pisano school as the
earliest efforts of the reviving arts, cannot fail to
be highly gratiﬁed; especially if they afterward
proceed to Florence and Rome; and trace the
gradual progresswof these arts to that state of
maturity which the parental care of the Medicean
' Princes at length enabled them to attain.

As considerable changes have lately taken place
in large continental cities relative to the arrange-
ment of works of art, I have endeavoured, in the
following pages, to furnish Travellers with correct
lists of the objects best worth notice in the re-
spective galleries of sculpture and painting; at
the same time marking, with one or more ex-
clamation points (according to their merit), those
works which are deemed peculiarly excellent.

INTRODUCTION. xi

I will now close this preface by saying, that
in the hope of being serviceable to those of my
Compatriots who, in consequence of' pulmonary
complaints, are compelled to exchange their native
climate for the renovating sun of Italy, I have
ventured to make a few observations, relative
to health, the result of nine years’ experience;
during the greater part of which period my time
and thoughts were chieﬂy occupied by endeavours
to mitigate the sufferings of those most dear to
me: and highly gratiﬁed should I feel if the little
knowledge I have been able to collect could so
far inform Travellers, as to guard them against
those serious inconveniences which too generally

retard, and not unfrequently prevent, the recovery
of consumptive persons.

London, October, 1819.

 

‘3" Q'

TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT.

' I ' . " . V
ggh‘;
CHAPTER I.

‘ “FRANCE

C’siBest road to Paris—Abbey of S. Denis—Paris—
]llost prominent improvements—Illusée Royale des A 2 ts—
Muséc dcs Monumens Francaz's—Publz'c Libraries—
]llusée d'Artillerée—ﬂlusée d’Histoz're N aturelle et Jardin
du Roi—Academic Royale de Musique, and other The-
atres-JMaan'acture Roy/ale deg Glaces—zllanﬁact'zire
Royale des Tapissem'es aux Gobelz'ns—Colonne de la
Place Vendéme—«Arc de trz'omphe de Z’Etoéle—Port
S. Dcm's-—-Port S. ﬁlartz'n—nTribunal du Corps
Legislatf—Basih ue de Notrc—Dame—Basilzqueﬁe la
Nouvclle S. G '22"e;:.;‘2 mama—Hotel Royal
des I22ml2'des---Inst2't22t' ; des Sourds-Mucts—
Hospice dc Z22 Saipétrzere—Hépital 2168 E2 fam
2‘2'021rés—Obserz'atoire—Palais (Z22 Temple—Palm's dc
la Bourse—Greniers dc réscrve—Abattoz'rs—Halle an
Blé—Halle aux Vim—Marché 22 la Volaz'lle et an Gibie'r
—-Br2'dges——F022-ntai2zs——Burz'aZ-placcs—-S. Cloud—
aSéurcs—Versailles—Present 32222522210 Society at Paris+
Passports.

     
  

2:

ON revisiting Calais, in May, 1817, after ari absence of

twenty years, I discovered no apparent change, either in the

town or its inhabitants; except that the latter, at least the
VOL. 1. ' . B

Tﬂ

. r

:45!”

h,
1”
2 TRAVELS ON THE conrmrznr CHAP. I.
if

lower order of people, have acquired a habit of smoking in-

cessantly, like the Germans; while the former boasts a larger

number of good'inns than it possessed under the govern-

ment of Louis XV and has been ridded of all its con-

ventual institutions, and likewise of the host of mendi-
a!“ cants by whom travellers were for ,x y annoyed. Under-

standing that the route-through Beauvais to Paris was“
smoother, less hilly, and shorter by three posts, than that
through Amiens, I turned off at Abbeville, wheré’ the
roads part, and pursued my way to Graﬂdvilliers; passing
.near a mound which commands the adjacent country, and
whom summit is denominated Caesar 5 Camp. e eitr
ments are well preserved; and medals,’ and other antiqui-
ties, have been found on this spot. Grandvilliers contains ‘
3000 inhabitants: the road from Calais thither iQexcellent;
and, owing to its great breadth and perfect straightness,
poieﬁes an appealance of grandeur, for the same reason
common to most of the high mads In France. The coun-
try had hith rto presented nothing remarkable: but, after
quitting Qandvillicrs, I passed through ﬁne sheets of corn,
interQersed with churches and Chateaux in ruins, and con—
vents transformed into, mN " ‘torie‘of various descrip-
tions; objects frequently ‘see , in the French territories,
and generally speaking disa vantageous to a landscape:
but this disadvantage is counterbalanced by the improved
state of agriculture, the increase of towns and villages,
and the air of comfort mhich pervades even the humblest
peasant’s cottage.

I 1.,

Beauvais, seated on the banks of the T herain, is cele-
brated on acgunt of the siege it sustained, in 1472 , when
Jeanne Haéhette headed the women of the place, and
defended it against; an elm) at 80,000 men, commanded
by the Duke of Burgundy, whom she compelled to abandon

i’

new“ ‘
t

w ‘31

1" 1 a

,5 i .
can. I. Flu-NOE. 3

Q
, a
his ente1prise: and, in me1no1v of this heroine, there 4is

eve1y year, at Beauvais, a piocession, in which the ladies
take precedence. The Hotel de Ville appears to be a
ﬁne modern ediﬁce; and the Cathedral, though unﬁnished,
merits notice: it contains the tomb of Cardinal Forbin,

by Coustou, and some good specimens of the tapestry for t,
which Beauvais has long been famous. The Church of S.

Etienne' contains ﬁne painted glass, a monument in rz'lz'evo,
supposed to b. antique, and an admired picture of our
Saviourgbearing his cross.

, t , . 0.
From Beauvals I proceeded, through avenues of fru1t-
trees, and a country rich in vineyards and corn, to Beau-

mont, pleasantly situated on the left bank Of the Oise: and
from BeQumont, through avenues of fruit-trees and spa—
cious plains well cultivated, to S. Denis; whose venerable
abbey was the ancient burial-place of the kings of France ~
during the revolution, however, this abbey was bereaved of
its treasures, its church unroofed, and every altar levelled
with the dust; but the emperor Napoleon, having deter-
mined to restore it to its pristine use and splendor, repaired
the royal vault, which he seemed by doors of bronze gilt,
erecting in the church, onihe right—hand, two expiatory
altars; the one dedicated to the race of Clovis, the other to
that of Charlemagne (and between these altars were to
have been placed statues of the six kings of France
digniﬁed With the title of Emperor); while, on the opposite
side of the nave, he erected another expiatory altar, conse-

ated to the monarchs of the third dynasty , inscribing on
a column the names of the princes of this house.

I was unable to examine the church, because I had
omitted applying for a ticket of admission, either to the
principal architect who resides at S. Denis, or to the Swiss

5r B 2

its“

" it

x.

ﬂ‘

4

I

. )‘v
4 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

guards stationed there; and without this ticket, strangers
cannot pass beyond the commencement of the middle aisle.
I observed, however, two old monuments on each side of
the great door, and two others of less ancient date; one
being (I believe) that of Louis XII: but Napoleon’s ad-
. ditions, the bronze gates of the royal vault excepted, I
could not discover. ’
The Abbey of S. Denis, compared with F'l‘ench churches

in general, may be called a good piece of architecture,

' though very inferior to every Cathedral in England.
' .

Between S. Denis and Paris (almost one continued
street), the splendid dome of the Hétel (les Invalidcs, Mont
Martre, Belleville, and S. Chaumont, are the moﬁ: striking
objects: the second exhibits marks of having made a
desperate stand against the allied armies of Europe, when
united to dethrone Tapoleon ; and tthwo last were bravely
defended, on the 29th of March, 1814, by the pupils of the
Ecole Polytechniquc.

Paris, anciently called Parisz'i 'vcl Lutetz'a, is watered by
the Seine, anciently Sequamz ,- dad previous to the dethrone-
ment of Louis XVI, was supposed to contain from seven
to eight hundred thousand inhabitants; but, since that
period, the number has been considerably diminished, and
the population now does not amount to six hundred thou—
sand. The improvements ‘this city owes to Napoleon are
innumerable: and on entering the Place Vendémc, adorne
with a ﬁne imitation of Trajan’s Column; on advancing to
the Gardc-meuble and the Palace of the Tm'lerics, viewing
that superb ediﬁce, its princely gardens, and the magniﬁcent
facades of the Louvre (deemed one of the. most perfect
specimens of modern architecture); then contemplating,

crying. FRANCE. 5
'. . '9

from the Pont Loms XVI, the Palazs Bourbon, the front
of the Tribunal (In Corps Legislatﬁ‘the Champs Elyse/ens, their
stately dome of the Hotel (103 Invalides, the noble quays
of the Seine, and the many beautiful bridges thrown across
that river (which traverses Paris from east to west), it is
impossible not to think this metropolis the rival of ancient
Rome: especially when we recollect that the vast and splen-
did apartments of the Louvre, though recently despoiled
of man?” treasures, still boast one of the largest, and one
of the ﬁnest collections in the world of paintings and
sculpture.

At Paris, however, grandeur is more common than con-
sistency :wfor ere the eye be sated with gazing on the above
described magniﬁcent panorama, it discovers streets nar-
row, insigniﬁcant, and ﬁlthy, disgraceful in short to any
capital.

1

2

Among the most prominent improvements made, during
the late reign, are the noble Gallery intended to unite
the immense Palaces of the Louvre and the 'l'uilcrics, and
not yet ﬁnished—the triumphal Arch do l’Etoz'le, not yet
ﬁnished—the 116th (In ﬁﬁm’stérc dos relations extericures—
the Exchange, not yet ﬁnished—the Establishment for the
Orphans of the Legion of Honour—the Observatory—the
Temple—the Fountain of the Elephant, on the site of the
Bastile, unﬁnished, but worthy of the colossal mind by
which it was projected—the Storehouses for grain, called
Grcm'crs dc rcsérvc—the ﬁve Slaughter-houses, called
Abattoirs, magniﬁcent in themselves, and particularly be-
neﬁcial; as, previous to the reign of Napoleon, there was
nothing of this kind at Paris—the Cupola of the Corn-
Market—the general Magazine for wines—the Poultry and
Game-Markct—the great MarketL—the Market of S. Ger-

0':

7““ W
, <8; '

4»

6 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. Ia

Ingrid—of the Place Alaubert—of S. Jean, and of S. iVIartz'n

.—-—the Rue dc la Pair—the Pant du Jardz'n (In Roi—the

Pont de la Cité—the Pant des Arts—the Pant des‘ In-
valides—the new Quays—the Fountain of the Esplanade
du Bazdevard de Bandi, and the before-mentioned bronze
(‘olumn in the Place Vendéme.

The triumphal Arch, in the Place dc Carrausel, also ranks
among the embellishments of Paris; though strikineg de-
VOid of that magnitude and simplicity which distinguish
the Roman edifice it was meant to imitate.

But what especially charms the eyes of strangers in the
French capital, is that beautiful belt, called the Bgulevards,
whigh encircles the town, and consists of drives and walks,
bordered with forest—trees and gardens; and which from
the number of shops, and the ”profusion of ﬂowers
whereby it is adorned, has a peculiai'lt air of gaiety during
winter; and possesses during summer a salubrious coolness,
rarely met with in a vast metropolis. The circumstance of
all others, however, most conducive to the healthfulness of
Paris, is the puriﬁcation of the water of the Seine; which,
though now perfectly good and wholesome. was seldom

drunk with impunity twenty years ago.

Judging by appearances, I should think this fine city as
much improved in wealth as in magniﬁcence; the shops
being far more numerous, and far better stocked, than in time
past; the hotels, which amount, it is said, to three hundred,
being furnished with an elegance heretofore unknown; the
coffee-houses displaying every expensive decoration; the
tables of Restaurateurs abounding with luxuries: and the
opera-house exhibiting a splendour, with respect to stage
decorations, which no other theatre in Europe can boast.

.

CHAP. i. FRANCE. 7

Having enumerated the most striking changes in this
metropolis, I will now enter into a few particulars resptct-
ing the objects best worth notice.

31:15:56 Roi/ale (163 Arts, Place du Louvre*. This immense
collection of sculpture and paintings is placed in the mag-
niﬁcent palace of the Louvre.- eight rooms on the ground
ﬂoor, princely in size, and rich in marbles and mosaics,
being appropriated to the eﬂbrts of the chisel; and a suite
of vast and splendid apartments up-stairs to those of the
pencil. Among the sculpture are the choicest treasures of
the Villa Borghese; and many other highly valued works
of art, which once embellished Rome.

Vestz'bulc-f, The ceiling, painted in oil by Berthelemy,
represents the origin ”of sculpture; namely, man, formed by
Prometheus and animated by Minerva. The four nﬁdal-
lions, executed in busso—rz'lz'evo, iiepresent the four schools of
sculpture, namely, France, pointingto the Milon of Pujet;
Italy to the Moses of Buonaroti; Egypt to the colossal
statue of Memnon; and Greece to the Pythian Apollo.
Here are—a colossal bust of avanquishcd province, num-
bered 1,—4, colossal bust of Domitian—6, statues of pri-
soners—7, colossal bust of Lucius V ems—9, colossal bust

*Engravings of a considerable number of the pictures in
this Museum have been taken ; and proof impressions are sold,
for the beneﬁt of the establishment, at the Calcogrnp/zie du liIzts-ée
Royals. _

1- For the beneﬁt of persons restricted in point of time, I shall
mark (as I have already mentioned) with one or more exclama—
tion-points, according to the merit of the work in question,
those productions of the chisel and the pencil which are gg
ncrally deemed most deserving of notice, in the public and
private galleries of the Continent.

8 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. amp. I.

q; Jupiter Serapis—l‘l, vase adorned with bacchanalian
erﬁlems !—-15, statue of Apollo, called Sauroctone, or
lizard-killer, supposed to be one of the ﬁnest imitations
extant of a bronze statue of Apollo by Praxiteles ! ! *.

Arcade, leading to the Hall of the Emperors. 15, statue
of Apollo—18, Genius of eternal sleepf.

{fall oft/2e Roman Emperors. The ceiling, painted by
M‘Eynier, represents the earth receiving from Adrian and
Justinian, a code of laws, dictated by Nature, Justice, and
Wisdom.——l, statue of Marcus Aurelius—21, a Barbarian
prisoner—26, Nero—27, Trajan !! The basso-rilievo on
the pedestal of this statue represents a husband and wife
dining, and reposing on their couch; and is curious, as it

'exhibits ancient Roman costume-£32, basso-rz'lz'evo, found
at laune, and representing a religious ceremony performed
before the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus; of which the three
doors indicate the three naves consecrated to the three
associated divinities, Jupiter, Minerva, and J uno—33, sta-
tue of Trajan ! !

Ila]! of the Seasons; so called because the ceiling is
painted by Romanelli, and represents the four Seasons,
Apollo, Diana, &c.—35, statue of Venus—36, bust of
Commodus—37, statue of a wounded Combatant—~43, an
Egyptian divinity, in alabaster! ”1—44, bust of Venus! !—
48, statue ofEuripides ! 33—55, ditto of a Nymph—56, statue
of Bacchus—57, a Sarcophagus, representing the voyage
of the good to Elysium l—59, basso—rz'lz'evu of Mithras (a

.

* From the Villa Borghese.

1‘ This statue does not express the idea it is intended to convey.
1 From the Villa Albani. § lbid.

53;

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 9

Persian divinity), the Genius of the sun, accomplishing the
mystic sacriﬁce of the bull! ! Mithras was worshipped by
the Romans, who erected altars to him; and this basso-
rz'lz'cvo was found near. the Forum Romanum—GQ, basso-
rz'lz'cvo, taken from the temple of Minerva at Athens; it
represents the Panathenaea * ; and was composed by Phidias,
and executed under his orders I! !

Hall queacc; so named, because the ceiling, painted by
Romanelli, represents Peace, Commerce, and the Arts——69,
statue of Posidonius ! ! l—72, statue of Demosthenes ! l H

—75, ditto Trajan ! l !
Qt;

Hall oft/1e Romans. The ceiling, painted by Romanelli,
represents History and ketry, celebrating the success of
Bellona; the deputies of the Roman Senate bringing the
Dictator’s robe to Cincinnatus ; hem ' of the Sabincs ;’the
story of Mutius Sczevola; and the cohﬁnce of Scipio—7.7,
bust of Greta, very rarel—78, Inopus, a fragment found
at Delos 1—81, bust of a Roman warrior—82, statue of ‘
Rome—88, statue of Tiberius !—.89, statue of Augustus !!§
—-—91, colossal bust of Rome !—-93, statue of Julia, the wife
of Septimius Severus—95, group of Thetis, &c.; curious
on account of the ancient galley on which the Goddess
is placed-98, Chastity—100, bust of Antinous. V

Hall qfllte Centaur. The fresco-painting, on the ceiling,

* The Panathenea were festivals in honour of Minerva, the
patroness of Athens.

1- From the Vatican Museum.

1; Inopus, a river of Delos, supposed by the inhabitants to be
a branch of the Nile.

§ From the Vatican Museum.

‘8

10 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. 1.

is by Romanelli, and represents the triumph of religion;
the theological virtues, Ste. Here likewise are other paint-
ings by modern artists—102, statue ofa Roman, name un-
known—104, Alexander the Great—106, Group of the Cen-
taur! H! This master-piece is supposed, by the Chevalier
Visconti, to have been executed in the time of Adrian, by
Aristeas and Papias, natives of Aphrodisias, in Caria—107,
colossal head of Apollo—109, ditto of lVIarcus Aurelius-—
1 i1, ditto of Lucius Verus—llQ, statue of Germanicus—
113, statue of Claudius—115, statue of Achilles-r120, sta-
tue of Sextius Pompeius, by Ophelion, a Greek artist! !—
121, one of the largest and most beautiful candelabra of
antiquity *.

Hall (3f Diana. 124:, statuw? Bacchus—129, statue of
Nlinerva—130, bust of a Roman, name unknown—131,
grdup of three ny hs, aﬂspcnding their wet garments on
acolumn! !—133, the of Venus—135, bust of Rome—-
basso-rz'lz'evo of Hercules stealing the tripod of Delphos, and
above this, Thalia—138, basso-rz'lirvo of the Suovetaurilia, a
solemn sacrifice, when ﬂow, sus, a lamb, owl's, and a bull,
taurus, were immolated; and it appears that the name given
to this religious ceremony is derived from the three last
mentioned Latin words—139, Diana (2 la Bic/w, so called
because the Goddess is represented at the moment when she
has just snatched the celebrated Hind with golden horns
from Hercules; and reprimanded him for molesting an
animal sacred to her. This beautiful work (found be—
tween Genzano and Ariccia amidst the ruins of a tem-
ple consecrated to Diana) is of Parian marble, and stands
upon a pedestal ornamented with fine bassi—rz‘lievi : that
part which represents three cities, personiﬁed by three

* From the Vatican Museum.

”up, 1. FRANCE. 11

female ﬁgures wearing crenated diadems, is particularly
admired ll! l—MO, group called Venus victorious! the
basso-rilz'evo, which serves as a pedestal to this group, is
in the Etruscan style—141, basswrz'lz'evo, denominated the
Conclamation; a ceremony which took place at the fu-
nerals of the ancient Romans; and consisted in calling the
departed loudly and repeatedly by name, and likewise en-
deavouring to rouse them by the noise of music, in or A
to ascertain whether they were really dead—144, group of
Venus and Cupid, supposed to be an imitation of the
draped Venus of Praxiteles! ! 1—4445, bust of Perseus, the son
of Philip king of Macedonia—148, the Venus of Troas, a
statue, supposed by Visconti to have been the work of
one of the scholars of Praxiteles! ! !—-150, statue of
Minerva!!! This ﬁne WCI‘k is supposed by V isconti to be
a copy of the bronze Blinerva of Phidias, surnamedjthe
beautiful—153, bust of Marcus Agrippa—154, statue of
the Lycian Apollo! l—156, statue of Diana—157, bust‘of
Demosthenes, supposed to be one of the best likenesses of
that philosopher now extant—171, antique fountain in the
form ofa tripod, found in Adrian’s Villa”".

1111!] Iy't/ze Candelabra)”. The picture in the centre of
the ceiling was executed by Prudhon; and represents Diana,
cntreating Jupiter not to subject her to the laws of Hymen.
The ornaments which surround the picture are allusive to
Diana—172, a Candelabrum, supposed to be one of the
largest antique productions of this kind now existing; and
equally remarkable for the singularity of its shape, and tlre
excellence of its workmanship: it once adorned the Salviati-
palace at Rome l—174, bust of Venus !--l 76, basso-rz'lievo of

* From the Museum of the Capitol.

12 \ TRAVELS Obi-THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

A'htiope reconciling her sons, Zethus and Amphion—l 79,
Statue of a dog found at Gabii !-—181, statue of Pollux—
183, tripod of the Delphic Apollo ! ! ! found at Ostia*.—187,
statue of a wild boar, being an antique copy of the famous boar
at Florence !—]90, statue of Marsyas ! '_ H This is deemed
one of the ﬁnest pieces of sculpture extant; and like every
other antique representation of Marsyas, is supposed to be
initiated from a celebrated picture by Zeuxis, which Pliny
mentions as having graced the Temple of Concord at
Rome—191, basso-rz'lz'cvo of Jupiter.

Hall (3f the Tiber. 192, statue of fEsculapius! lJr—193,
Antinous in the character of Hercules, found near Tivoli
—196, chair, consecrated to Bacchusli—197, statue of
Ceres—198, altar of twelve Gods, found at Gabii, and
very curious I ! It is adorned with busts of Jupiter, Minerva,
Apollo, Juno, Neptune, Vulcan, hiercury, Vesta, Ceres,
Diana, lVIars, and Venus; the two last of whom Love is
uniting: it is likewise adorned 'with the twelve signs of
the zodiac, and with symbols of the divinities supposed
to preside over the month which each sign indicates—€200,
Chair, consecrated to Ceres !§—201, statue of Diana—202,
the Tiber, a colossal group, found at Rome, on the site of
the Temple of Isis and Serapis, near the Villa-Lata ! l l ! M
This ﬁne group, and that of the Nile (in the Vatican
Museum), adorned two fountains which embellished the
avenue of the temple. The Tiber is represented in a recum—
bent posture, resting his right arm on an urn, near which
rcposes the wolf of Mars, with her nurslings, the founders
of Rome: the our in his left hand indicates that the river

is navigable.

"“ From the Vatican Museum. 1- 1“ rom the Villa Albani.
I From the Vatican Museum. § lbid. 1| lbid.

can. I. FRANCE. 13

Arcade which leads to tile Hall of thefglztz'ng Gladz‘atgr.
205, statue of Mars.

Hall ofﬂzc Gladiator. 206, statue called the Gladiator
of the Villa Borghese l!!!!! He is represented as combating
against an enemy on horseback ; his left arm bears a shield,
with which he is supposed to parry the strokes of his op-
ponent; whom, with the right hand, he is about to wound
with all his force. The attitude of the statue is admirably
calculated for this double action; and every limb, every
muscle, is said to wear more precisely the appearance of
life, than does any other master-piece of the Grecian chisel.
The author of this transcendent and inimitable work was
Agasias, of Ephesus, whose name is engraved on the trunk
which supports the ﬁgure, and whose design, according to
Visconti, was not to represent a Gladiator, but a warrior.
During the commencement of the seventeenth century, this
statue was discovered at Antium, where the Roman em-
perors had a Villa, and where the Apollo of Belvedere was
found about a century before—212, sarcophagus represent-
ing the death of Meleager !—215, statue of Adrian !—218,
a-wounded Amazon ! ! The upper part of this ﬁgure is said
to be an antique imitation of the wounded Amazon of
Ctesilas; but the sculptor, by whom it was restored in the
sixteenth century, has deviated from the costume appro—
priate to these female warriors—-219, Venus of Arles, so
called, because found at Arles in Provence, and supposed
to be Venus victorious, the device of Caesar—220, an infant
Mercury—222, Lucius Caesar !—224, group of a faun and
a Satyr: the pedestal is supposed to have been an orna-
ment with which ancient wells were sometimes em-
bellished *—229, statue of lVIercury: the subject of the

* The receptacles for the ashes of the victims in heathen tem-
ples seem to have been usually thus ornamented.

14' TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. L‘HAP. I.

ﬁgso-rz'lievo on the pedestal is taken from the Odyssey, and
represents Ulysses in the Shades Below.

Hall quallas. 230, a Woman petitioning the Gods:
the drapery is remarkable—231, statue of Ceres—232,
the Genius of Bacchus! ! !——235, statue of Polymnia, the
upper part modern, the drapery antique and exquisitely
ﬁne l It is impossible not to admire that taste which has sta-
tioned the Muse of memory and the Inventress of harmony
to watch over the Sarcophagus called that of Homer. 236,
Sarcophagus called that of Homer, who is here represented
as conversing with Calliope, Erato, and Socrates ! ! ! This
sarcophagus was discovered at the commencement of the
last century near Rome, on the road to Ostia *—239, iVIi—
nerva of Velletri ! l l l This magnificent statue, of the ﬁnest
Greek workmanship, was found in the year 1797, near Vel-
letri. The Goddess is represented as possessing that dig-
niﬁed beauty which accords with wisdom; and though
armed with her helmet, aegis, and lance, she seems, from
the mildness of her countenance, to indicate that the arts of
peace are. not less dear to her than the glory of war. The .
pedestal on which this statue rests deserves notice—242,
statue of a female lV'Iusician, supposed, by the costume, to
have been executed in the time of Trajan or Adrian l—243,
sarcophagus called that of Acteon—245, bust ofAdrian—
246, statue of Nemesis—2+7, statue of an infant Her-
cubs—24:8, statue supposed to represent Hope: the basso-
rz'lievo, which adorns the pedestal, displays the formation of
Man by Prometheus, and Minerva giving him life under
the emblem of a butterﬂy—250, the cinerary urn of C10-
dius; Egyptian workmanship, as appears from the hiero-
glyphics—253, a triangular Altar, representing three signs

* From the Museum of the Capitol.

 

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 15

of the‘zodiac; namely, the Virgin, the Scorpion, and Sagi-
tarius, with the threeDivinities, Ceres, Mars, and J upiter—
260, a sepulchral Urn, which contained thefshes of Fun-
danius V elinus *—261, group representing a Peasant cut-
ting up a deer ! ! f—263, Basin or Bath of porphyry: these
basins were sometimes used as sepulchres, when properly
shaped for the purpose.

v

Hall of Melpomene. The ﬂoor of this apartment is orna-
mented with mosaics, chieﬂy executed at Paris by Belloni,
and representing Minerva in her car followed by Peace and
Abundance, with River Gods, 8L0. forming a border to the
picture. Here likewise is the fragment of the celebrated
planisphere of Bianchini. 264, bust of Isis—265, statue
of a Female petitioning the Gods, and supposed to be the
portrait of a Roman empress—266, bust of the Nile—-
267, colossal statue of Melpomene, supposed originally
to have adorned Pompey’s theatrelllli—268, bust of
Serapisll

Hall ofthe Caryatz'des, so called because one end of this
- immense apartment is decorated with a tribune, supported
by four Caryatides in rilz'evo, the work of Jean Goujon, and
particularly well executed. The apartment likewise con-
tains a door adorned with bassi—rz‘lz'em' by Andrea Ric-
cio, a celebrated architect and sculptor of Padua—305,
bust of Socrates—306, the Hermaphrodite of the Villa
Borghese, supposed to be the ﬁnest antique imitation ex-
tant of the bronze Hermaphrodite of Polycletus ! l l ! This
statue was discovered, at the commencement of the seven-
teenth century, near Dioclesian’s Baths. The mattress on

* From the Vatican. Jr From the Villa Albani.
: From the Vatican Museum.

16 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

vdich the ﬁgure rests is by Bernini, and excellently well
done, insomuch as to be called sarcastically his c/ufd’mvm'c.
—307, bust 'f Homer*—309, bust of Diogenes—312,
statue of a Lion, in basalt H—3l4, statue .of Hercules,
upper part ﬁne—315, bust called that of Hercules, but
believed, by Winckelmann, to represent Xenophon—316,
‘ bust, supposed to represent Thucydides—3l7, statue of
' ‘ 2".abina, the consort of Adrian !-—319, statue now supposed
V to represent an old Fisherman of Africa; though heretofore
denominated The death of Senecal—324, bust of Zenon——
327, bust of Epicurus—Ssl, statue of Venus coming out of
the bath ! !——333, statue of Alexander the Great! ! li—
343, group of a Child strangling a goose; supposed to be
an antique copy of a work, in bronze, which Pliny mentions
as having been executed by Bo'e'thus, a Carthaginian sculp-
tor: this group was found near Rome—34A, Venus coming
out of the bath !! This ﬁne statue is supposed to be an
antique copy of a celebrated Venus by Polycharmus, which
adorned Rome in the time of Pliny—345, statue of Marcus
Aurelius—350, torso of Jupiter; supposed to be an antique .
imitation in marble of the famous Jupiter Olympius of
Phidias !—351, group of Silenus with the infant Bac-
chus ! l ! ! This master-piece of art was discovered, during

 

the sixteenth century, in the gardens of Sallust—352, statue
of Jason, called Cincinnatus I!!! This (‘llf/LII’QUZV‘C was
found at the Villa Negroni; and is thought to be in the
style of Agasias the Ephesian—353, Vase of the Villa Bor-
ghese ! ! !! The bassi—rilz'evi on this beautiful vase, which
was found in the gardens of Sallust, represent a Baccha—
nalian ceremony—354, statue of a Roman in the character
of Mercury, and improperly called Germanicus ! ! '. l—This

“V From the Museum of the Capitol.
'l‘ 1" min the Villa Albaui. 1 Ibid.

ﬂ

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 17

cite/id’amvre, which appears to be the work of the younger
Cleomenes, does not resemble, in point of features, any
other statue, nor any medal, of Germanicus: it was found
in the Villa Negroni.

The staircase leading to the apartments which contain
the paintings, was executed according to the designs bf
Fontaine; and consists of four distinct ﬂights of steps, two:
leading to the Gallery of Apollo, and two to the Exhibition-
rooms of living Artists; which are interesting, because they
contain more historical pictures than do our exhibitions at
Somerset-house. Beyond these rooms is the gallery called
Italian; in size one of the most magniﬁcent apartments
existing; and adorned with columns, mirrors, candelabra,
altars, busts, ancient and modern vases, all of the most
costly description; beside eleven hundred pictures, which
clothe its walls. This Gallery is divided into nine parts;
the three ﬁrst containing the works of the French School;
the three next being appropriated to the works of the
German, Flemish, and Dutch Schools; and the three last

to the Italian Schools.

Galley—French Sc/zoo]. No. 11, the descent from the
Cross, by Bourdon—QO, the nativity, by Le Brun~22, the
blessed Virgin preparing a meal for the Infant Jesus,
by ditto—Q3, Christ served in the Desert by Angels, by
ditto—24, the Magdalene renouncing all the vanities of
life, supposed to represent Madame' de la Valliére, by Le
Brunl—28, the dream of Anne of Austria, by ditto—30,
Pentecost, by ditto—31, the lapidation of S. Stephen, by
dittol—34, the tent of Darius, by ditto l—46, the interior
of a Painter’s Studio, by Cochereau l—54, the last judg-
ment, by Cousin !—60, Joas acknowledged king of Israel by
the army and the people, by Antoine Coypel—65, the in-

VOL. I. c

18 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

terior of a kitchen, by Drolling, a self-taught Painter !——
75, David anointed king over Israel, by Claude Lorrain!
—76, the disembarkation of Cleopatra to present herself
before Antony, by Claude !——77, a landscape, by ditto ! l—
78, 79, and 80, landscapes, by ditto l—97, the descent from
the Cross, by Jouvenet—IOS, La V z'érge a‘ la Grappe, by
Mignardll-dlll, S. Cecilia, by ditto—119, portrait of
Nicolas Poussin, by himself—120, the Deluge, by ditto, a
particularly ﬁne and poetical picture! ! !——1 22, the preserva—
tion of the Infant Moses, by ditto—130, the judgment of
Solomon, by ditto ! l—l31, our Saviour, the Blessed Virgin,
S. John, Elizabeth, and Joseph, by ditto l—134~, the blind
men of Jericho, by dittol—135, the woman detected in
adultery, by ditto (a fine painting, the ﬁgure of our Saviour
excepted, which wants dignity.)— —137, the death of Saphira,
by Nicolas Poussin l—139, the assumption of the Virgin,
by ditto—141, S. Francois Xavier recalled to life, by ditto!
—-146, the shepherds of Arcadia, by ditto—147, Time
rescuing Truth from Envy and Calumny, and hearing her
in triumph to the regions of eternity, by ditto l—150, Dio-
genes throwing away his tankard, by ditto l—-—172, S. Paul
preaching at Ephesus, by Le Sueur— 173, Simon, the
Cyrenian, coming to the aid of our Saviour; and S. Vero-
nica offering him a handkerchief, which receives the im-
pression of the face divine, by Le Sueur-l74~, the descent
from the cross, by ditto—224, Antibes, by Vernet—225,
226, and 227, Toulon, by ditto—228, Bandol, by ditto—
229 and 230, Marseille, by ditto—231, Cette, by ditto——
232, and 233, Bayonne, by ditto—234, and 235, Bordeaux,
by ditto—236, La Rochelle, by ditto—237, Rochefort, by
ditto—238, Dieppe, by ditto—243, a sea—port at sunset, by
ditto l—249, a sea-view by moonlight, by dittol—250, a
tempest, by ditto—251, a moonlight scene, by ditto—252,
a tempest, by ditto.

CRAP. I. FRANCE. 19

Flemish, German, and Dutch Schools. 310, View at sun-
set in Italy, by Both l—321, the garden of Eden, by
Breughel l—3‘27, a landscape, (the ﬁgures in which are by
Annibale Caracci) the other part by Paul Bril—338, Les
Relzgieuses; namely, the eldest daughter of Philippe de
Champaignc, and the Mére, Catherine Agnes, by Philippe
de Champaigne !-— 339, the repast at the house of Simon the
Pharisee, by ditto !—-340, the last supper, by ditto—354, a
landscape with cattle, by Cuyp !——355, a gentleman mount-
ing his horse, a domestic presenting the stirrup, and a
groom mounted to attend his master, Cuyp—356, the same
gentleman returning from his ride, attended by three do-
mestics, Cuyp—368, the dropsical woman, by Gerard

DOW ! ! ! this picture is deemed one of the best productions
of the last named artist—37 3, the Philosopher, by Gerard
Dow!_!—374, the interior of a guard-house, by Jean le Duc

—377, Charles I, of England, by Anthony Vandyck—
379, Isabella, daughter to Philip II, of Spain, by ditto—
389, our Saviour dead in the arms of the blessed Virgin,
and angels weeping; a sketch by ditto !—390, the Infant
Jesus receiving homage from a Saint and a King, by ditto!
392, (Ex V oto.) the Infant Jesus receiving homage !-—396,
Hagar banished to the desert, by Philippe Vandyck i——
408, an Angel announcing to the Shepherds the birth of
our Saviour, by Flinck———414, a landscape, by Glauber !—
431, a portrait of Sir Thomas More, by John Holbein—
432, a portrait of Erasmus, by ditto—+33, a portrait of an
Archbishop of Canterbury painted when he was seventy
years of age, by ditto—434, _ Nicholas Kratzer, astronomer
to Henry VIII, of England, by ditto—437, the descent
ﬁom the cross, with two other paintings in the same frame,
by ditto-443, the interior of a Dutch dwelling, by Peter
de Hooch l—446, and all the intermediate numbers to 455,
by Van Huy'sum—457, the cruciﬁxion, by Jardin l—4-75,
c 2

20 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

the descent from the cross, by Lucas de Leyden l—483, a
jeweller weighing gold, and his wife examining a book
illuminated with miniatures, by Quintin Matsys l—529, in-
terior of the cathedral at Anvers, by Peter Neﬂ' l—530, 531,
532, and 533, by the same master—534, a landscape, by
Aart Vanderneer: the three cows in this picture are at-
tributed to Cuyp—54l, the Family of Adrian Van Ostade,
by himself l—548, travellers stopping at the door of an inn,
by Isaac Van Ostade—553, an Angel announcing to the
Shepherds the birth of our Saviour, by Poelenburg—558,
portrait of Guillaume du V air, by Probus the younger—-
564, two horses fastened to a trough at an inn door, and a
man bringing them water, by Paul Potter l—565, cattle in
a meadow, by ditto—568, a landscape with cattle, by Py-
naker—569, 570, 571, and 572, portraits of Rembrandt,
by himself—575, head of a man with a fur cap, by Rem-
brandt—576, head of an old man with a long beard, by
ditto—577, Tobit and his family prostrate before the Angel
of the Lord, by ditto ! !——578, the good Samaritan, by ditto
—-—579, our Saviour at Emmaus, by ditto—580, S. Mat-
thew writing, and an Angel dictating to him, by ditto——
581, Venus and Cupid, by dittol—SSQ, a Philosopher in
meditation, by ditto -583,\the interior of a Tradesman’s
dwelling, by ditto—585, a wolf devouring a sheep, by Rosa
di Tivoli. The landscape in this picture was painted by
Tempesta—587, Lot and his Daughters leaving Sodom, by
Rubens—588, Elias succoured by an Angel in the desert,
by ditto—589, the adoration of the Magi, by ditto. Twenty-
four pictures by the same great Master, taken from the
Luxembourg Palace, and representing the life of lVIary of
Medicis. (The ﬁrst number is 597, and the most striking
of these very ﬁne pictures are numbered 608, 611, 617, and
618)—621, portrait of Richardot, by Rubens-625, a vil-
lage féte, by ditto—630, a landscape, by Ruysdael, with

CRAP. 1. FRANCE. «1

ﬁgures and cattle, by Berghem !——63l, another landscape,
by Ruysdael, with ﬁgures by Wouvermans !—632, a
tempest, by Ruysdael—GSS, our Saviour at Emmaus, by
Santw001'tl—634, the Holy Family, by Schalken l—64«7,
animals entering the ark, by Sneyders—65l, interior of a
kitchen, by ditto—669, the temptation of S. Antonio, by
David Teniers~—679, the head of an old man, by ditto—
703, a hare and other game, by Weenix !—704, a peacock,
a hare, other game, and a dog, by dittol—706, Pharaoh’s
Daughter ﬁnding Moses, by Adrian Vander-Werf ! l——708,
an Angel announcing to the Shepherds the birth of our
Saviour, by ditto !——709, the Magdalene in the desert, by
ditto ! l—7l l, N unphs dancing, by ditto !

Schools of Italy. 756, the Infant-Jesus embracing S.
John, who is presented to him by the blessed Virgin and
Elizabeth, Albano—759, Venus impatient to try the effect
of - her beauty on the heart of Adonis, by ditto—760, Vul-
can reposing at the feet of Venus, while little Loves forge
arms for the latter, by ditto—761, the Loves, while sleep-
ing after their labours, disarmed by the Nymphs of Diana,
Albano—762, the Loves, after having recovered their losses
and become triumphant, conducting Adonis to the feet
of Venus, by Albano—778, the blessed Virgin and our
Saviour listening to S. John, who is presented to them by
Elizabeth; Andrea del Sarto lil—794, the blessed Virgin,
by the Cav. Batoni l—804, the resurrection of Lazarus, by
Bonifazio—SIG, 817, and 818, views of Venice, by Cana-
letto—820, the blessed Virgin dead, and the Apostles
weeping over her, by M. A. Caravaggio—822, a young
woman telling a youth his fortune, by ditto—829, the
nativity, by Annibale Caracci—832, the blessed Virgin
recommending silence to S. John, that he may not disturb
the repose of our Saviour, by ditto ! l~-—839, the martyrdom

29 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

of S. Stephen, by ditto—840, the same subject, by ditto—
852, the Infant-Jesus with his mother, by Ludovico Caracci
—858, S. Cecilia by Cavedone—863, our Saviour seated
on the lap of the blessed Virgin, and attended by S. Sebas-
tiano, presenting the ring, for his mystic marriage, to S.
Catherine of Alexandria; by Antonio da Correggio l—864,
our Saviour crowned with thorns, by ditto! ! l—865, Antiope
asleep, Love sleeping by her side on a lion’s skin, and
Jupiter standing near, transformed into a satyr, by ditto!—
870, David vanquishing Goliah, a double picture on the
same subject, by Daniello da Volterra ! ! It is said that Mon-
signor Giovanni della Casa, a Florentine prelate, employed
Danielle da Volterra to model a group in plaster of David
vanquishing Goliah ; and then desired him to represent, in
painting, the two sides of the model; which seems to have
been done in the last-named picture—871, our Saviour
consecrating the bread, by Agnese Dolci ~ 875, a land-
scape, representing the ﬂight into Egypt, and attributed
by some persons to Domenichino, and by others to Ann.
Caracci—STS, S Cecilia, by Donlenichinol—885, acon-
cert: this picture is attributed by some persons to Leonello
Spada; and by others to Domenichino—QOI, the adoration
of the Shepherds, by Spagnoletto l—907, Melancholy, by
Domenico Feti ! l—912 and 913, portraits of Benvenuto
Garofolo, by himself—916, a mystic subject, by Garofolo—
917, a landscape, by Gaspero Dughet, called Gas. Poussin—
924, our Saviour accepting the instruments of the passion,
by Luca Giordano ! l—JBI, a portrait of Guercino, by him-
self~935, the blessed Virgin and S. Peter deploring the
loss of our Saviour, by Gnercino l—943, Circe, by ditto !—
947, the salutation, by Guido l—— 948, the Infant-Jesus sleep-
ing on his mother’s knees, by dittol—951, our Saviour and
the Samaritan, by ditto l—953, head ofonr Saviour crowned
with thorns, by ditto ! !-~---956, our Saviour in the garden of

CHAP. 1 FRANCE. 23

olives, by dittol—957, the Magdalene, by ditto l !—-958, the
same subject, by dittol—962, an allegory, representing the
union of Design and Colour, by ditto ! l—-969,: portrait of
Giulio Romano, by himself—970, the adoration of the shep-
herds, by Giulio Romanol—QSQ, portrait of Monna Lisa, a
celebrated Florentine Beauty, by Leonardo da Vinci ! *—
983, S. John Baptist, by ditto ! !-——984«, S. Anne, the blessed
Virgin, and Infant-Jesus, by ditto! ! l—985, the Infant-Jesus
blessing S. John, by ditto—987, our Saviour seated, and
receiving the cross of rushes from S. John; School of
Leonardo da Vinci l—990, the Holy Family, by Bernar-
dino Lovini—991, our Saviour sleeping, by ditto—1001,
the blessed Virgin showing our Saviour to the Angels and
Shepherds, by Carlo Maratta—1015, the lnfant-Jesus on
his Mother’s lap playing with a Chaplet, by Murillo ! l l l—
1016, God the Father and the Holy Ghost contemplating
our Saviour while he receives a. cross of rushes from
S. John, Blurilloll—1017, our Saviour on the lVlount of
Olives presented, by an Angel, with the Chalice and the
Cross; 1Murillo—1018, S. Peter imploring pardon of our
Saviour, 1VIurillo—1020, a young Beggar seated, Mu-
rillo lll—IOQT, the blessed Virgin and Joseph presenting
the Infant-Jesus to be adored by a young shepherd; Palma
vecchio—IOMr, our Saviour sinking under the weight of
his cross, by Paolo Veronese—1058, the blessed Virgin
with the Infant-Jesus and S. Martina, by Pietro da Cor-
tonal—1060, Faustulus, the shepherd of Amulius, pre-
senting Romulus and Remus to his wife, Laurentia; by
ditto!!—-1071, portraits of Rafaello Sanzio d’Urbino, the
founder of the Roman School, and his master, Pietro

3*- Francis 1, of France, gave, for this picture, 4000 gold
crowns; a sum exceeding 45,000 francs.
Leonardo da Vinci founded the Milan-School.

E

£24 TRAVELS oN THE CON’I‘INENT. CHAP. 1.
Perugino, by Raphael *-—-—lO73, portrait of Count Bal-
thasar Castiglione, by Raphael—1076, the arch-angel
Michael vanquishing Satan, by ditto !—1079, the Holy
Family, called La belle Jardz'niére, by ditto! !—~1080, the
Holy Family, painted by Raphael, only two years before
his death, for Francis I, of France!!!—~1081, the Infant-
Jesus reposing, by Raphael!!—1082, the Infant-Jesus,
supported by his Mother, caressing S. John, who is pre-
sented to him by Elizabeth; Raphael—1094, a Sportsman
shooting a bird, and Soldiers reposing on a rock; by Sal—
vator Rosa! !—-1097, our Saviour sleeping on his NIother’s
knees, with Cherubini in th) angles of the picture, by
Sasso Ferrato! !———1098, the Apotheosis of the blessed
Virgin, by ditto!!—1099, had of S. John Baptist, by
Schiavone—IIOO, the Holy Family, by Schidone—llOé,
the blessed Virgin visiting Elizabeth, by Sebastiano del
Piombo—lllO, the prodigal Son imploring his Father’s
pardon, by Leonello Spada !———l l 16, portrait of Tintoretto,
painted by himseltL—l 122, portraits supposed to be those of
Titian and his Mistress, painted by hinlselff—ll‘Zl, por-
trait of Cardinal I-lippolito of )Iedicis, by Titian—112?,
portrait of a man dressed in black, by ditto—1 131, portrait
of a man with one glove on, and the other OR, by ditto-—
1132, the soldiery insulting our Saviour at the door of his
prison, by ditto! ! !—113+, our Saviour carried to the
tomb, by ditto ! !—1135, the Pilgrims of Emmaus, by
ditto! ! i —_1136, the blessed Virgin, the Infant-Jesus,

”* According to some opinions this picture represents Raphael
and l’ontormo, and was painted by the 1atter.

l Titian (Vecellio 'l‘iziano) was one of the Founders of the
Lombard School.

t According to tradition. the l’ilgrim, on the right of our
Saviour, represents the Emperor Charles V; the Pilgrim on
the left, Cardinal Ximenes; and the Page, Philip ll, of Spain.

CHAP. l. ' FRANCE. 25

S. Stephen (the ﬁrst Dalmatian martyr), S. Ambroisc, and
S. Maurice, by. ditto! !—1137, two Angels worshipping
our Saviour, by ditto—1138, the blessed Virgin holding a
rabbit, for which our Saviour seems to ask, by ditto—1139,
S. Agnes presenting to our Saviour her palm of martyr—
dom, by ditto ‘. !——l 150, the martyrdom of S. Irene, by
Francesco Vanni! l—1152, portrait of the Infanta Mar-
guerita—Theresa, Daughter of Philip IV, of Spain, and of
his Consort Maria—Anne of Austria, by Velasquez !

Several pictures belonging to this magniﬁcent collection
have suffered much from being ill-restored and over-
varnished; and several statues belonging to the Museum
of Sculpture are, in appearance, still more hurt, by having
been partially cleaned.

The Muse'e Royale is, generally speaking, open to F0-
reigners (gratis) every day, Mondays excepted, from ten
in the morning till four in the afternoon.

Musée deg lilonumens Francaz‘s, Rue des I’ciits Augustins.
Monsieur Lenoir, to whom Paris is indebted for this Mu-
seum, has arranged in chronological order all the sepulchral
monuments he was able to rescue from the sacrilegious
grasp of the infatuated Leaders of the French revolution:
thus exhibiting a series of memorials of the most distin-
guished characters to whom France has given birth, from
the days of Clovis to the present aera: and, at the same time,
forming a peculiarly interesting history of the commence-
ment and progress of sculpture, and the art of painting

upon glass, among his countrymen.

The introductory aparlnzenl contains monuments of va-
rious dates; together with ﬁve altars, erected, during the

26 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

reign of the Emperor Tiberius, to Gallic, or Roman di-
vinities. Among the tombs are that of the cruel Frédégonde,
executed in mosaic, and deemed very curious—those of
Cardinals Dubois, Richelieu, and Mazarin; of Languet,
Francis I, Diana de Poitiers; and the statues of Clovis,
Clotilda, and P. Corneille. Here, likewise, is ﬁne painted
glass, by the celebrated} Pinaigrier, representing subjects
taken from the life of S. Paul: and in the Chapel of
Francis I, which belongs to this apartment, is a rare sort
of painted glass, designed and executed by J. Cousin, for
the chapel of Diana de Poitiers, at Anet.

The Hall of the thirteenth century contains the tombs
of Clovis and Clotilda; S. Louis; Clovis II, and Hugues
Capct ; together with three windows of painted glass, taste-
less and bad in point of design, but vigorous in respect to

colouring.

The Hall of the fbm‘lcrnth century contains statues of
King John, the Constable Duguesclin, and Charles V;
together with painted glass of great beauty in respect
to colouring; though, with regard to composition, de-
fective.

The Hall (y't/zr'jzjh'm/h cwztmjz/ contains the statue of
Valentina dc Milan: the tomb of Louis XII; statues of
Louis of Orleans, Charles V], Juvenal des Ursins, and
Philip de Commines; together with painted glass, exhibit-
ing all the beauty of colouring of the former century, with
much more correctness of design. At this period the clair-
m’wm' was introduced into paintings upon glass: and some
of these productions are supposed to have been executed by
Henry Mellin, to whom Kings Charles V. and VII, granted

several privileges.

CHAP. I. ‘ FRANCE. 27

T he Hall of tire sixteenth century contains Francis I, by
Jean Goujon, Henry IV, by F rancheville; the tomb of
Pibrac; portraits of Marot, Rabelais, Coligny, the virtuous
chancellor l’HOpital, Philibert de Lorme, Palissy, Pibrac,
Ronsard, Jean Cousin, Amiot, and Catherine of Medicis.
This apartment exhibits beautiful painted glass, which, like
every other branch of the arts, attained a high degree of
perfection in the sixteenth century. The two pictures on
the right, near the entrance, were composed and executed
by J. Cousin; the subjects are taken from the Apocalypse.
The next picture, which represents Francis 1, in regal
robes, was likewise composed and executed by" Cousin;
and the fourth, which represents our Saviour crowned with
thorns, was executed from the design of Albert Durer.
The ﬁfth and last picture, done in black and white, after
the designs of Primatice, represents the nativity, and the
circumcision; it is ﬁnely executed, and attributed to Ber-
nard Palissy.

The Hall (3f the seventeenth centmy contains statues of
Colbert and Letellier; the tomb of Le Brun’s Mother;
portraits of Lulli, Poussin, Descartes, the Princess de
Conti, Le Sueur, Corneille, Pascal, Racine, Lafontaine,
lVIansard, Quinault, Coysevox, Santeuil, Lenostre, La—
moignon, Bossuet, 8:0. The paintings upon glass in this
apartment are executed in black and white, by Francois
Perrin, after some ﬁne compositions by Le Sueur : they re-
present the martyrdom of Saints Gervais and Protais.
Above these are two other paintings, done after the designs
of Le Sueur; and the four which follow are by Michu and
Sempy, after the designs of Elyas, a Flemish artist. The
last represents Henry IV, entering the town of Poissy,
accompanied by John de la Barriere.

“I
28 TRAVELS ON THE CON’I‘INEN’i‘. CHAP. 1.

The Hall of the eighteenth century exhibits likenesses of
Maupertuis, Crebillon, Coustou, Lepautre, Rousseau, Mar-
shal Saxe, Montesquieu, Fontenelle, Chevert, Helvetius,
Piron, Voltaire, Buﬁ'on, d’Alembert, Ste. This apartment
also contains a bust of the great antiquary Winckelman ; who
was assassinated at Trieste, in 1768, by a person to whom
he had imprudently shown some valuable medals, which
he carried about him; and for the sake of which, his life was
destroyed by the above-mentioned villain. Among the
paintings upon glass in the gallery, are S. Genevieve,
with a book in one hand, and a taper in the other; and
the Devil endeavouring to extinguish the light, which an
Angel prevents him from accomplishing—The adoration
of the Magi, and a Monk kneeling, accompanied by S. Ger-
main and S. Joseph. (The author of these paintings is
unknown). The descent from the cross, by J. Cousin—the
martyrdom of 8. Stephen (in black and white), by Bernard
Palissy—thi‘ec subjects in mum/en (namely, one of the
school of Leonardo da Vinei, another the Virgin and
Infant-Jesus served by Angels, and the third an assembly
of Saints in a temple), by J. Nogarre.——'l‘he Constable

Anne de l\lontmorency, armed and kneelinO‘ with Saints

1-,:
in the back ground l—hladeleine de Tende, wife of the
Constable, likewise kneeling at the head of her four daugh-
ters !—and the eldest son of the Constable kneeling, and
attended by his four brothers ! executed after the designs of
J. Bullant, by Palissy. Two pictures (in black and white)
representing allegorical medallions, and two subjects from
the old Testament, by J. C ousin.—The table of Cupid and
Psyche (divided into thirty-two pictures), by Bernard Pa-
lissy—the end of the world, after the designs of Tempesta;
and the resurrection, after those of J. Cousin, by the bro-

thers l’inaigrier; and ten paintings representing the life of

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 29

Don John Barriere, by Michu and Sempy, after the designs
of Elyas.

T he interim Garden contains the Tomb of Louis de
Lusignan, king of Jerusalem, and that of Bertrand Du-
guesclin.

The exterim' Garden contains the sepulchral Monu-
ments of Anne de Montmorency, Henry de Bourbon,
Condé, Dagobert, Heloise, and Abelard *, Boileau, Mas-

sillon, and Moliere; together with a statue, representing

Jupiter.

This museum is, generally speaking, open from ten in
the morning till two in the afternoon; and a triﬂing gra-
tuity is received, with thanks, by the Person who attends
Strangers.

Bibliotlzeque du Roi, Rue de Richelieu. This Library,
perhaps the ﬁnest now existing, contains above three
hundred thousand printed volumes, seventy-two thousand
manuscripts, ﬁve thousand volumes of prints, and the most
rare and valuable collection of medals in the world. The
gallery appropriated to the manuscripts is adorned with
ﬁne paintings, by Romanelli; and the apartment next to
the Cabinet des estampes, contains a portrait of King John,
considered as the most precious relic of French painting in
the fourteenth century. This Library is open to students

* Abelard died in the priory of S. Marcel, near Chalons-sur-
Saone, in 1242; and, during the next year, the sarcophagus
containing his remains was secretly conveyed, by Pierre de
Cluny, called The Venerable, to Héloise; who deposited it
within the walls of Paraclete; and, after her decease, the mortal
remains of these unfortunate lovers were united.

30 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

every day, festivals and vacation-times excepted; and to
other persons on Tuesdays and Fridays, from ten in the
morning till two in the afternoon *.

Bibliotlzegue de l’Arsenal, Rue de Sully, Quai des Celestins.
This Library, supposed to contain seventy-ﬁve thousand
printed volumes, and six thousand manuscripts, is parti-
cularly rich in history and Italian poetry; and open to the
public every day, festivals and vacation-times excepted, from
ten in the morning till two in the afternoon.

Biblz'ot/zeque Mazarz'n, Palais des Beaux-Arts, Quaz'
Conti. This Library contains about sixty thousand
volumes; and is open to the public every day, festivals,
Thursdays, and vacation-times excepted, from ten in the
morning till two in the afternoon.

Biblz'oz‘lzeque (1e S. Genevieve, Place de S. Genevieve, Bd-
tz'mens du College a’e Henri IV. This Library contains
above eighty thousand printed volumes, beside two thou-
sand manuscripts; and is adorned with busts representing
the great men of all ages; among whom are Jules Har-
douin, Mansard, the Chancellor Letellier, by Coysevox,
and Doctor Arnauld, by Girardon. Here, likewise, is a
plan of Rome in rz'lz'evo, executed by Grimini, in 1776.
This Library is open to the public every day from ten in the
morning till two, festivals and vacation-times excepted.

Bibliotheque de la Ville, Rue S. Antoine. Here is a ﬁne
ceiling, painted by Girardini.

* The port-folio of Gaignieres, containing a collection of the
costume of the French Nation, from the days of Clovis to the
present period, may be found among the prints.

CHAP. I. FRANCE. ~ 3]

Bibliotheque du llIusée d’Hz'stoz're Naturelle, Rue de
Jardz'n du Roi. This Library is particularly rich in books
relative to natural history; and likewise in herbals and,
drawings of plants: it is open to the public on Tuesdays
and Fridays, from three in the afternoon till dark, during
autumn and winter; and from four till seven, during spring
and summer. Students are admitted on Mondays, Wed-
nesdays and Saturdays, from eleven in the morning till

tVVO.

Bibliotheque de lafaculté de Medecine, Rue dc Z’Ecole de
Medecine. This Library, rich in works on the art of
healing, is open to the public Mondays, Wednesdays, and
Saturdays, from ten in the morning till two.

Bibliotheque de l’Institut, Palm's des Beaux-Arts. This
Library is open to the public Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Musée d’Artz'llerz'e, Rue de l’ Um'versz'té. This is the
repository of all the machines invented to render war de-
structive, since the fourteenth century. Here also are the
arms and armour used in tournaments, together with those
of the Maid of Orleans, Godfrey de Bouillon, Francis I,
Loius XI, Henry IV, and Louis XIV. This museum may
be seen every Sunday morning, from eleven till two, by
means of tickets from the Director.

Musée d’Hz'stoz're Naturalle, et Jardin du Roi, Quai S.
Bernard, et Rue du Jardz'n du Roi. The botanic Garden
belonging to this Museum contains a large collection of
plants of various countries; together with buildings which
serve as dens for wild beasts; and a menagerie so con-
structed that birds of all kinds, and tame animals, not
natives of France, are provided with habitations analogous

32 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

to their modes of life: and, in the midst of this appropriate
spot, the French naturalists have erected a modest monu-
ment to Linneus. The Amphitheatre of Anatomy stands
in this garden; as does the Museum of Natural History;
on the ﬁrst ﬂoor of which is the ﬁnest collection of ﬁshes in
Europe; together with lizards, serpents, shells, minerals,
fossils, &c.: and on the second ﬂoor the most magniﬁcent
assemblage imaginable of birds and quadrupeds, preserved
to admiration.

The botanic Garden is always open to the public, gratis ,-
the Museum on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays only,
from three o’clock in the afternoon till ﬁve. The ﬁne
Bridge of Austerlitz, now called Pout du Jardin (In Roi, is
a great ornament to the botanic Garden.

Académic Royals dc Illusique, 02¢ [’Opém, Rue de Ric/ze-
licu. This Theatre, which contains nearly three thousand
spectators, may, without exaggeration, be called the most
brilliant spectacle in Europe, with respect to scenes, dresses,
machinery, accuracy relative to costume, and excellence re—
lative to the composition and execution of the ballets re-
presented: it is open on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Fridays.

Tlléziz‘rc Rentals, Hue dc Richelieu. This Theatre, de-
dicated to the representation of French plays. is where

Talma usually exhibits.

Thézitrc dc I’Opéra Comique, Rue Feydmu. This Ediﬁce
contains two thousand two hundred spectators.

Thédtre do l’Ode'on, pre‘s la Luxembourg. French plays
are represented in this Theatre.

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 33

T/zéiz'tre du Vaudeville, Rue de Chartres S. Honoré. This
Theatre generally exhibits a variety of little dramas,

songs, Szc.
Theatre (165 V ariétés, Boulevard Montmartre.

Mamgfacture Rogale des Glaces, Rue de Rem‘llg. This
Manufacture is well worth notice; as it employs eight hun-
dred workmen; who have attained such perfection in their
art as to make Mirrors of 122 inches in length by 75 wide.

Mamgfacture Royale des Tapisserz'es (16’ la Couromze, aux
Gobelz'ns, Rue Mouﬁétard. This Manufacture also is well
worth notice; as it exhibits the most beautiful Tapestry
existing; and may be seen, every day, from ten till one

o’clock.

Colonne de la Place Vendzﬁme. This stately Column, 133
Paris feet in height, and 12 in diameter *, is a ﬁne imitation
of Trajan’s Pillar; and made of the cannon taken from the
enemies of France, in the battles fought by Napoleon and his
Generals: it represents those battles in bronze bassi—rz'lz'evz';
and on its summit there originally stood a colossal statue
of the Emperor :' which, after his dethronement, was taken
down; and has, according to report, been carried to Mos-
cow. A winding staircase, of 176 steps, leads to the top of
this column; from which the View of Paris is beautiful.

Arc de triomplze de Z’Etoz'le. On the 15th of August,
1806, Paris began to erect this ﬁne Arch, in order to per-
petuate the fame obtained, in Germany, by the French

"‘~‘ A Paris foot is nearly thirteen English inches.

VOL. I. D

34 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN’I‘. CHAP. I.

Armies, during the former year: it was intended to be 135
feet in height; but unfortunately is not ﬁnished.

Port S. Denis. The conquests of Louis XIV, in 1672,
induced the city of Paris to erect this magniﬁcent triumphal
Arch to perpetuate his fame. The bassi-rz'lz'evi represent
military trophies (remarkably well-executed), personiﬁca-
tions of Holland and the Rhine, the passage of the Rhine,
and the taking of Maestricht.

Port S. Martin. The continued success of Louis XIV,
induced the city of Paris to erect, in 1673, another monu-
ment to his fame: this Arch, though less adorned than that
of S. Denis, is, in point of architecture, equally harmonious
and digniﬁed. The bassi—rz'lz'cvi represent the taking of
Besancon, the triple alliance, the taking of Limbourg, and
the defeat of the Germans; ﬁgured by the god of war re—
pulsing an eagle. Great artists were employed in executing
both these Gates.

Tribunal (/11 (Imps Legislatgf Opposite to the bridge of
Louis XVI, rises a magniﬁcent Peristyle, formed by twelve
Corinthian columns surmounted by a triangular pediment:
a superb ﬂight of steps, adorned with cblossal statues of
Minerva and France, leads to the entrance of the building;
and opposite the bridge are statues of Sully, Colbert, 1’ Ho-
pital, and d’Aguesseau. This peristyle forms the approach
to the Hall of the Deputies.

Basilique de Notre-Dame. This ancient ediﬁce, sur-
mounted by twin-towers of a majestic height, contains some
good paintings of the French school, and a descent from
the Cross (in sculpture) by the elder Coustou.

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 35

Basilz'que de la nouvelle S. Ge’nevz'eve, ou Le Pantlzéon.
This elegant building, erected by command of Louis XV,
after the design of Souﬂlot, in the form of a Greek cross, is
340 feet in length, peristyle inclusive, and 250 feet wide:
in the centre rises a dome, nearly 64 feet in diameter, sup-
ported within, and adorned without, by pillars, which pro-
duce a pleasing effect. The exterior height of the dome is
282 feet; and the interior height of the nave 170 feet. The
peristyle consists of 22 Corinthian columns 58 feet high,
and ﬁve and a half in diameter, supporting a triangular pe-
diment. Under this church is a vast receptacle for the

ashes of the great *1

Garde likable de la Couromze, Place Louis X V . This
deposit forthe furniture belonging to the crown, is well
worth notice.

Hotel royal des Invalides. This ediﬁce was erected by
command of Louis XIV, as a retreat for old and deserving
Soldiers of the French army; and exhibits a magniﬁcence
most honourable to its Founder. The dome, deemed a
master-piece of architecture, was designed by Jules Hardouin
Mansard; and (measuring from the pavement to the cross
on the top of the lanthorn) is 300 feet high: the lead which
covers it was originally gilt, by order of Louis XIV; and
re-gilt by command of Napoleon. Round the interior of
this dome are six chapels. In the great cupola Charles de
Lafosse has painted the apotheosis of S. Louis, and likewise
the four Evangelists, placed between the principal arches.

* The Church of S. Eustace is bold and light in point of
architecture; and the churches of S. Roch and S. Sulpice, built
about the middle of the eighteenth century, are handsome and

worth notice.
D 2

i: TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

J. Jouvenet has represented, on the ceiling, the twelve
Apostles; Boullongne painted the chapels of S. Jerome,
S. Ambroise, and S. Augustin, in which the history of
these Fathers of the Church is given; and the Chapel of
S. Gregoire, painted originally by Le Brun, has been re-
touched by Doyen. The ceiling of the Sanctuary, painted
by Nicolas Coypel, represents the mysteries of the Trinity,
and the assumption of the Virgin. The groups of Angels,
forming concerts, in the embrasures of the windows, are by
Louis and Bon Boullongne. The inlaid pavement of the
dome and chapels particularly merits notice. This building
likewise contains the monument of the great Turenne; who
is represented dying in the arms of Victory; while VVisdom
and Valour stand on each side, deploring the loss of the
Hero. In front is a bronze basso—rz'lz'cvo of the battle of
T urckeim; and the only inscription on the monument is
the word, “ TURENNE.” The remains of Marshal V anban
have been honoured with a place near those of Turenne.

The Hétel (It’s Invalidcs, which gives shelter and comfort
to seven thousand Veterans, is open to the public every day,
from ten in the morning till four in the afternoon.

Institution Royalc dcs Sourds-Muets, Rue S. Jacques.
The benevolent idea of teaching the Deaf and Dumb to
speak, was formed by the Abbé Epée; who, with a fortune
of only twelve hundred livres per annum, maintained, at his
private expense, forty scholars of the above description;
and thus founded one of the noblest charities in France:
but all the sacriﬁces he was compelled to make, in order to
accomplish his purpose, would, at length, have proved
fruitless, had not his talents and virtues been renewed in
the Abbé Sicard; who has brought the plans of his Prede-
ccssor to such perfection, that he teaches the Deaf and

anp. I. FRANCE. 37

Dumb not only to read, write, and cast accounts, but like-
wise to understand turning, working in mosaic, drawing,
and painting, so as to get their own livelihood: he also
teaches them French and English grammatically ;_ geo-
graphy, history, geometry, and metaphysics; and, at the
conclusion of every month, his Pupils have a public ex-
hibition, to which Strangers are always admitted, on apply-
ing to the Director of the Establishment for tickets.

Hospice de la Salpe’trz'ere, Boulevard de l’Hdpz'tal prés [e
Jardi7z du Roi. This vast and well—regulated Hospital,
nobly endowed by Louis XIV, and enriched by private
contributions, is capable of containing nearly eight thousand
persons; and receives females of all descriptions, incapable

of earning their bread.

Hdpz'tal des E7gfans—tr0uve’s et Hospice ([6 la Materm'té,
Rue de la Bourbe. The exemplary Vincent de Paul
erected, in 1640, a Hospital for Foundlings; which was
afterwards greatly assisted both by private and public
bounty; but, nevertheless, in 1792, out of eight thousand
children, placed in this asylum, four thousand died ere they
had‘attained their second year: and to check the course of
this afﬂictive mortality, Monsieur Hombron conceived the
happy idea of uniting the Mothers with their Children; and
thus preserving both: ceasing, therefore, to make a lying-
in Hospital of the Hdtel-Dz'cu, the French Government
formed the Foundling-Hospital into a double establish-
ment; the one part for pregnant Women, and the other
for deserted Infants.

Observaloire, Rue du Faubom‘g S. Jacques. This build-
ing was erected by the order of Louis XIV; and has, of
late years, been much improved in point of convenience,
and amply furnished with astronomical instruments.

38 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN'I‘. CHAP. 1.

Palais du Temple. Except the Palace of the Grand
Prieur, nothing remains of the ediﬁce which, about the
middle of the twelfth century, belonged to the Knights
Templars; and was given, after their abolition, to the
Knights of Malta. The Palace of the Grand Prieur, how-
ever, has been repaired at a large expense, and is worth
notice.

Palais (it: [a Bomsc, Rue (IFS ﬁllies S. T/zomas. Paris
has long wanted an Exchange worthy of her riches and ex-
tensive commerce; and this ﬁne building, should it ever be
ﬁnished, will do honour to its architect, Brongniard.

Grem'ers dc Reserve, Boulevard Bourdon. This immense
Storehouse for grain, whose appellation alone bespeaks its
importance, was begun in 1807; and, such is its size, that
the expense of materials and labour only has amounted to
twelve millions of livres.

Abattoirs, on 'I’Iwrim. Those buildings constructed by
the Romans to give health to the ancient capital of the
civilized world were not more magnificent than the Abat-
loir or Slaughter-house of lVIont Martre, situated at?“ the
top of the Rue de Rochechonart: the length of the building
being 1078 feet, and the breadth 385 feet. It contains,
amidst a large number of courts, watered by the Ourcq,
four sheep—pens; four ranges of stalls for oxen; commodious
slaughter-houses; and ample store-houses for fodder, Ste.
The Abattoir dc Popz'ucourt, situated in the Rue des
Al’nandiers S. Antoine, already boasts seven sheep-pens,
and seven ranges of stalls for oxen. The Abattoir (I’Imy,
less vast, rises rapidly on the outside of the Barrier des
Deux Monlins: the Abal/oir a’r I'augz‘rard is likewise build—
ing on the Place de lircteuil, and promises to equal the
others in emn‘eniem'e and extent. The :l/m/loir (1’11 Roult’

CHAP. I. FRAN cu. 39

is to be erected in the Plaine de Mouceaux, at the ex-
tremity of the Rue de Miromesnil.

Halle au Blé, Rue de Vz’armes. The cupola of this
market, built in 1782, by Molinos and Legrand, was 377
feet in circumference; and from the pavement to its summit,
100 feet: it consisted of wood, placed in a heinispheric
form, and apparently so slight that it was impossible to
contemplate this extraordinary piece of architecture with-
out wondering how it held together. After standing twenty-
two years, it fell a prey to ﬁre; and has been restored on a
plan wholly new, and particularly well worth observation,
from rendering it invulnerable to the attacks of the element
by which it was, in 1802, destroyed. Great additions have
likewise been made to the size of the market; which was
previously too small for the consumption of the metropolis.

Halle aux Vim, Quai S. Bernard. The ancient em-
porium for wines having fallen to decay, Napoleon ordered
the ﬁrst stone of the present building to be laid on the 15th
of August, 1811 ; and this immense ediﬁce, constructed to
hold two hundred thousand wine-casks, is divided into
fourteen magazines, beside nearly an hundred cellars.

g.

Marc/16 (i [a Volaz'lle (5' an Gillie); Nothing can be more

elegant of its kind than this market; which generally

receives fresh supplies of game, 8w. on Mondays, Wed-
nesdays, and Saturdays.

Of the ﬁfteen Bridges which are seen at Paris, the Pont-
A’cqf, erected by Henry IV, is the longest*‘; the Pont dc

* The Statue of Henry IV. has been recently rc-erected on
one side of the Font-Neuf.

40 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. (tHAP. 1.

Louis XV I, the boldest with respect to design; and the
Pont des Arts, and that of the Jardz'n du Roi, the most re-
markable on account of their lightness, elegance, and arches
of iron. A ﬁne new bridge, called that of Les Invalz'des, or
L’Ecole Milz'taz're, is now building.

Fontaz'ize (le [’Esplanadc (In Boulevardc (Ie Bondi. The
composition of this fountain is simple; the execution good;
and the effect produced by the water, falling in sheets from
basin to basin, particularly pleasing.

Fontaz'nc (It’s Ilmocens. This fountain was erected in
1551, according to the designs of Lescot and Goujon; and
afterwards removed from its original situation, added to,
and placed in the centre of the AIarc/zé des Innocens, where
it now stands.

Fontainc (lc Grcncllc, line ([6 Ore/wile. This work,
executed by Bouchardon, and erected in 1739, is admired
with respect. to the sculpture and architecture; but so
sparingly provided with water, as to destroy the effect of the
fountain, which is embellished with statues representing the
city of Paris, the Seine, and the Marne.

lv‘ontainc dc [a Bastille. This magniﬁcent fountain, de-
signed by the Emperor Napoleon, and, like too many of
his works, unﬁnished, rises on the site of the Bastille, in a
eonnnanding situation; and was to have been surmounted
by an enormously colossal elephant, whose proboscis was to
have dispensed the water. The model ofthis elephant may
be seen in a building near the fountain.

('2'))u’tzt')'¢'.s‘ (‘l ('atacombrs. Paris exhibits no burial-
grounds adorned with funereal monuments: the cause of

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 41

which seems to have been, that the Pessessors of riches and
honours were entombed within the walls of consecrated
buildings; while the mortal remains of the Poor were
thrown into the vast and common grave of the respective;
cemeteries; and even grudged a little earth to cover them.
T hesc receptacles of corruption, by constantly evaporating
putrid air, produced epidemic maladies; and thus punished
the Living for their want of piety toward the Dead: in 17 7 3,
therefore, the Parliament of Paris ordered the Cz'metz'ere dos
Innocms (the largest and most noxious of these recepta—
cles), to be closed: and, soon after, all the cemeteries within
the city were closed likewise; though pride and interest
still produced burials in the churches: the remains of the
Poor, however, were transported, without scruple, from
the ancient cemeteries into vast and profound stone-quarries,
on the outside of the city: and, during the revolution, even
the asylum of a church did not preserve the bones of the
deceased from the touch of sacrilege; the remains of the
prince, and those of the peasant, ﬁnding, in the before-
named quarries, a common grave. In 1804, GoV'ernment
empowered the friends of the deceased to erect monuments
to their memory in the cemeteries; a circumstance which
soon changed the aspect of these chambers of death. The
handsomest cemetery in the environs of Paris is that of
Mont-Louis; and here lie united all sorts and conditions
of men; Jews, Inﬁdels, Papists, and Protestants, forming
one common dust.

To the south of Paris, under a spot called La Tom/)6
lssoz're, is a funereal receptacle of another description.
Nothing above ground announces this abode of melan-
choly; which lies amidst vast stone-quarries; and is
denominated The Catacombs, from the resemblance it

 

4-2 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I.

bears to burial-places so called at Rome and Naples.
Since the year 1806, this spot has been the receptacle for
all the human, bones which, during several ages, were
eaccumulating in the cemeteries and suppressed churches
within the walls of Paris. A dark staircase, just wide
enough for one person, and penetrating ninety feet under
ground, leads to the principal gallery, which admits two
persons abreast. To the right and left are vaults of great
extent: and that Strangers may not lose themselves in this
dangerous labyrinth, a black line has been traced on the
roof of the principal gallery, to serve as a guide. Rocks
jutting out, here and there, relieve the too great uniformity
of this gallery , which leads to another, called that of Port-
Malron, from containing a model of the last-named place,
made by an old soldier who worked in the quarries, and was
at length crushed to death, by an enormous stone which fell
upon him. Picturesque and terrific rocks next meet the eye,
and lead to a vestibule, at the end of which is ablack door, the
entrance to an apartment \where millions of human bones,
forming a kind of mosaic work, are placed in straight lines
between the pillars which support the ponderous roof of the

cavern; whose walls exhibit, at intervals, reihgious sen-
tences, descriptive ot the immortality of the soul, and the
blessings of the life to come. Here is likewise a small
Chapel with an expiatory altar, on which are these
words; “ Second Sqtcmbrc, 1792.”

The environs of Paris contain a variety of objects that
urerit notice; the most prominent of which are the fol—

lowing.

S. (Yo-ml. The furniture of this royal Chateau (about
two leagues from Paris, on the road to Versailles), is

CHAP. I. FRANCE. 43

peculiarly splendid and elegant; but its gardens do not
merit attention, unless it be on the three ﬁrst Sundays in
September, when waterworks are exhibited.

Sevres. This town, which is very near S. Cloud, con-
tains the celebrated manufacture of china long deemed the
most beautiful in Europe.

Versailles. This is a ﬁne episcopal town, four leagues
distant from Paris; and contains 28,000 inhabitants: its
royal Chateau was despoiled and deserted, during the
revolutionary government; but is now undergoing repair.
The Ceilings and Theatre of this Palace merit notice; the
Orangery is particularly beautiful; the Water-Works are
celebrated; the wafeauw of Grand Trianon and Petit
Trianon (both in the grounds), are objects of curiosity;
and the public Library of the town deserves attention.

I will now close my account of Paris by saying, that
although it has gained much, during the last twenty years,
in point of wealth, convenience, and external grandeur,'it
has lost'muchﬁvith respect to society; there being so great a
number of different political opinions among the Parisians,
maintained by each party with such tenacity, that social
intercourse is almost destroyed: indeed, the very character
of the people seems changed; for that constant gaz'eté de
((l’ltl‘, by which they were once distinguished, has given
place to thoughtfulness, reserve, and discontent. They
have, however, paid England the compliment of adopting
her taste, with respect to laying out gardens, shrubberies,
Ste: they have likefvise proﬁted by her agricultural 'know-
ledge; and also adopted many of her modes of life; inso-
much that Parisian ladies now walk about the city; which
was never done heretofore: but on one point of etiquette

~26

44 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAI’. I.

they still differ widely ﬁ‘om us; as women of light character
only, are attended in their walks by livery servants.

Paris, like Calais, has been ridded, within the last twenty
years, of that multitude of Mendicants who formerly ﬁlled
its streets: and, if we may judge by appearances, there are
but few individuals of the French Nation who have any
need, at present, to depend on alms for their support.

It is necessary that British Subjects, previous to leaving
Paris, should go to the Sous—Préféctmr, or General Police-
Oﬁice, near the Pont-Neuf, to reclaim their Passports;
which are usually taken from them at the frontier, and sent
hither: this Ofﬁce is open from nine in the morning till
four. Hence, every Passport must be Km to the British.
Ambassador (whose signature can only be obtained from
eleven in the morning till one); then it must be taken once
more to the General Police-Ofﬁce, for the signature of the,
Mim'strc dc l’z'nfz’ricw‘; and, lastly, to the Mim'strc 0’68 (1/-
Jizirc’s étrangérc’s, in the Rue du Bac, where ten francs are
p’aid for the ofﬁcial seal, Persons going into Italy should
likewise have their Passports countersigned by the Austrian
Ambassador at Paris.

CHAPTER II.
SWITZERLAND, THE SIMPLON, MILAN, &c. v

Journey to Fontainebleau—State of the road from Paris
thither —- Royal Chateau at Fontaincbleau — Sens -—
Joigny—Auxérre—State of the road between the last-
named town and Fontainebleau—S. Brie—Grottoes of
A reg—State of the road between Vermanton and Lucy-
le-Bois — Rouvray —— Pant-de-Pany — Dijon —— Descrip-
tion of that city-—Genlis—Aaa‘onne—Dole—Poligny
——]l[ilz'tary road over the Jura-Alps——French frontier
Custom-lwuse—Magniﬁcent view on descending to Gen
—Geneca—Descripti0n of that city—Lake of Geneva——
Voltaire’s Villa at Ferney—Ea‘cursion to Chamouni,
and the Mont-Blanc—Description of the military road
from Geneva, and over the Simplon, to Domo-cl’Ossola——
Lago-I’llaggiore—Borromean Islands—Colossal Statue
of S. Carlo Borromeo—Description of the road ﬁ'om
Sesto-Calende to M ilan—Triumphal Arch intended as a
termination to the Simplon-road—Mitan—Description of
that city—Monza—Lodi—Custom-house near the Po—
Piacenza—Description of that citynParm—Description w
of that city—«Reggio—Modena—Description of that city ‘
— Castel—Franco— Custom-house there — Bologna — De-
scription If that city and its environs—State of the road
between Illilan and Bologna—State of the road between
Bologna and Florence — Volcano near Pietramala—
Country round Florence—Approach to that city. ‘° ;

BEING anxious to see the new military route, made over
the Jura-Alps and the Simplon to Milan, and ﬁnding

 

 

46 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. n.

that the road from Dijon to the base of Jura, though not
good, was passable", my friends and I determined to go
that way into Italy 1'.

After quitting Paris, we crossed the Orge on a ﬁne
bridge, drove through the village of Essonne, seated on
the Juine (observing the Seine at a little distance), crossed
the Ecolle at Ponthiery; and then drove through the village
of Chailly to the immense forest of Fontainebleau; than
which nothing can be more picturesque, nor, in some parts,
more gloomily magniﬁcent. On each side of the road are
lofty ranges of grey rocks; and at their very summits
beeches, and other trees, of an astonishing magnitude; the
richness of whose foliage, contrasted with the rude and
barren appearance of the huge and shapeless masses of
stone in which they vegetate, exhibits one of the most
extraordinary scenes imaginable.

After driving several miles, through this singular forest,
we discovered, in its centre, the town of Fontainebleau:
and- soon found ourselves housed at a comfortable inn,
[’Hotcl de la Ville de Lyon; where the charges are mo-
derate; a circumstance worth recollecting at a place famed
for the rapacity of its innkeepers.

“i

* From Auxonne to l’oligny the road is, generally speaking,
bad after a continuance of heavy rain; though it has been so
well repaired, subsequent to June, 1817, that when l repassed
it, during May, 1819, I found it one of the best roads in
France.

1“ The most proﬁtable money Travellers can take from Paris
into northern Italy is Napoleons; as they pass current for their
full value throughout that country: neither does any loss accrue
from taking them into southern Italy.

CHAP. n. FRANCE. 47

The whole road, from Paris to Fontainebleau, is paved,
and in excellent condition: the royal Chateau in the last-
mentioned town, merits notice; as it contains magniﬁcent
apartments beautifully painted in arabesque; splendid fur-
niture; peculiarly ﬁne specimens of Sévres china; and
some few good easel pictures; among which is the blessed
Virgin and Infant-Saviour, S. John, and Elizabeth, by
Raphael. The Gallery contains a bust of Henry IV, said
to be the best likeness extant of that great prince; and, in
the same apartment, are busts of Francis I, Sully, Wash-
ington, and the celebrated Duke of Marlborough. In this
Chateau, likewise, is a small mahogany table, on which
Napoleon signed his abdication; and which still bears
marks of a pen-knife, it was his custom, while thinking
deeply, to strike into the table, or desk, he wrote upon.

Fontainebleau is supposed to contain 9,000 inhabitants.

On quitting this town, we re-entered the. forest; and
drove several miles, amidst scenery not unlike parts of the

Pyrenees, to Fossard; thence proceeding, by the side, of

the Yonne, to Villeneuve-la-Guiard *, Pont-sur—Yonne,
and Sens; between the two last of which places the country
is rich in vineyards.

_ y ' . .

Sens, anciently the capital of the Sennones, contains
11,000 inhabitants, is sea, at the conﬂuence of the Yonne
and the Vanne, and encircled by handsome promenades,
and Roman works, which deserve the notice of antiquaries.
Its Cathedral is adorned with ﬁne painted glass, namely,
two Roses, the one representing Heaven, the other Purga-

* A good inn here, the Hdtel de [a Souc/ze.

48 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. n.

tory (these are placed above the two side—doors of the
church); and the windows in the Chapels of S. Eutrope
and N. D. de Loretto, which were executed by J. Cousin.
The Chapel of S. Savinien contains an excellent repre-
sentation, in stucco, of a Curtain; and in the centre of the
choir is a Monument, by Coustou, erected to the memory
of the unfortunate Parents of Louis XVIII; and embel-
lished With statues of Religion, Immortality, Conjugal Love,
and Time, whose mantle covers the Dauphin’s um, and
seems ready to envelop that of the Dauphiness; she not
having died till after this monument was begun. The
statues of Time and Religion are much admired; especially
the latter, but the shape of the monument wants elegance 5“.
Q On quitting Sens we crossed the Vanne, driving through
a ﬁne valley watered by the Yonne; the graceful sinuosi-
ties of which river, combined with the vineyards on its
banks, greatly embellish this part of France. After passing
through a magniﬁcent avenue of poplars to Villeneuve—sur—
Yonne, we reached Villevallier; thence traversing a bold
and picturesque country to J oignyf, anciently Jovz'niacum,
built on each side of the Yonne, and joined together by a
handsome bridge; the circumstance, perhaps, from which
it may derive its modern name. The Chateau here, erected
by the Cardinal di Gondi, commands an extensive View; and
the adjoining Church of S. Jean contains a curious Sarco-
phagus; on the cover of which is a recumbent ﬁgure, ap-
parently designed to represent our Saviour; while sur-
rounding three parts of the Sarcophagus are several statues
which, owing to their situation, appear gigantic.

* The best inn here, is L‘Hdte/ du. grand Cerf.
I A good inn here, the H6191 (I’m cinq Illilzeurs.

CHAP. n. FRANCE. 49

From J oigny we proceeded, through Bassou, to Auxerre *;
which is seated on the left bank of the Yonne, and contains
12,000 inhabitants. It stands amidst wide-stretching vine-
yards; as do all the large towns in this part of France; and
but for the extreme ugliness of Gallic architecture, when
uncorrected by Italian taste, might be called a handsome
city: its public ediﬁces seem to have been considerably
injured by the late revolutions: its Cathedral, however,
merits notice; and contains ﬁne painted glass. The three
Gothic Churches of S. Pierre likewise deserve attention;
as do the Quai-Condé, the Quai-Bourbon, and the Pro-
menades.

We found the road between Fontainebleau and Auxerre
paved in some places, well-kept. throughout, and peculiarly
exempt from steep hills; but, between the last-named town
and S. Bris, it becomes hilly, and continues so for several
leagues. After quitting S. Bris, which exhibits melancholy
traces of republican frenzy, we proceeded to Vermanton 1-;
two leagues south of which are the celebrated Grottoes of
Arcy; and either from Vermanton, or Lucy-le—Bois i, the
Post-master will allow his horses to go round by these
grottoes, charging only one extra league. Vermanton is
seated on the right bank of the Cure; and from this town
to about one league beyond the next post (Lucy-le—Bois) the
road, unless frequently repaired, becomes bad after heavy
rain: a new branch, commencing at Lucy-le-Bois, has

* Here are three good inns, namely, L’Ecu de France—Le

Leopard—and L’H6tel de Beamze.
Jr L’Hé'fel (1e None-Dame is a good inn; and there are several

others.
i Lucy-le-Bois contains two inns, The Past-House, and The

H 6M dr’s Di/igenres.

VOL. I. E

,y

‘fi

1““

50 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. 11.

however been lately made to this road; and, though longer,
it should always be preferred to the old road, because
harder and smoother.

Having passed Avallon *, which is pleasantly situated on
the banks of the Cousin, and contains 5,500 inhabitants, we
proceeded, through an uninteresting country, to Rouvray1~ ;
thence driving by the side of the Cousin, and then crossing
the Serein, on our way to Maison-neuve I, and Vitteaux§
on the Brenne, which contains 2,000 inhabitants. After
this, we traversed a hilly country, embellished with vine-
; yards, to La Chaleur, (called JIal-nommée; it being a very
cold place;) hence proceeding to Pont-de-Pany; and ob-
serving no objects that particularly deserved attention, till,
on coming to a chateau, once magniﬁcent, but now reduced
to ruins, we were agreeably surprised to discover, at an
abrupt turn of the road, beautiful Alpine scenery, con-
tinuing the whole way to the Post-house I] at Font-de-
Pany, a bridge thrown over the Ouche, near the head of
the Canal of Burgundy. Hence we drove for a short time
between rocks and mountains; and then traversed a ﬁne
country to Dijon; passing, as we approached that town,
‘ some curious rocks on the left.

Dijon, (anciently Dz'bi0,) the capital of Burgundy, and
supposed to contain 21,600 inhabitants, is seated in a fertile
plain, between the rivers Ouche and Suzon; and must
formerly have been handsome; but has suffered so severely

* Two inns, Le Lion d'Or, and La Ville de Dg'jon.

Jr Two inns, L‘H6tel de la Paste, which is remarkably good;
and L’Hdtel du Leopard.

t Inn, Lu Paste, and tolerably good.

§ Inn, La Paste, and very good.

11 The Post-House at Pont-de-Pany is a tolerably good inn.

CHAP. II. FRANCE. 51
i

from the late revolutions, that few of its public ediﬁces now
merit notice, except the spires of S. Benigne and S. Jean;
the former of which, 375 Paris feet in height, is called the
ﬁnest piece of architecture of its kind in Europe: the latter
does not measure quite 300 Paris feet. The Promenade
du Cours merits notice: and on the City Gate, leading to
Pdht-de—Pany, is the Car of Victory, not long since placed
there in honour of the Duke d’Angouléme. Commerce
appears to ﬂourish at Dijon; and wines, together with
eatables of every kind, are particularly good; but the
climate here, to persons who suffer from a cold and cutting

¢

wind, is ungenial *.

Soon after quitting this city we discovered the Jura-
Mountains: and, on entering the next town, Genlis, ob-
served, to the right, a chateau, said to belong to the Com-
tesse of that name, so much distinguished in the literary
world by her writings for the use of young people. Genlis
is a pretty village, adorned with neat houses, and a hand-
some bridge over the Norge 1L. Hence we proceeded to
Auxonne, seated on the Saone, and containing 5,000 in-
habitants i. A battle was fought in this neighbourhood,
between the French and the Allies; and bones of men and
horses were, not long since, sufﬁciently discoverable to mark
the ﬁeld of action.

The road is hilly to the next post, Dole: that town,
built 9n the Doubs, was once strong; but Louis XIV,

* Here are several inns, and the Hé'tcl du Parc is a very good

one.
T Best inn, L’Hﬁtel dc C6te d’Or.
1' Inns, L’Hﬁtel du grand Cerf, and very good , L’Hdlel de
M (mt—J ura. ‘

.._)

E2

5Q TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. (JHAP. n,
I
demolished its fortiﬁcations. The College, one of the ﬁnest

in France, the Promenade, called Le Cours, and the Canal
of the Rhine, merit observation: and near Dole are remains
of the ancient Roman road which extended from Lyon to
the banks of the Rhine *. On quitting Dole we crossed a
wooden bridge, according to appearance recently erected;
and observed, both to the right and left, stone—bridges
broken down. After passing the rivers Doubs, Clause,
Louve, and Cuisance, and driving through a particularly
long and beautiful avenue of poplars terminated each way
by a bridge, we arrived at Mont-sous-Vaudrey; thence
descending, not rapidly but almost constantly, to Poligny,
amidst corn-ﬁelds and vineyards.

Poligny is situated at the extremity of an extensive plain,
near the source of the Glantine, and at the base of Jura: it
contains 5,300 inhabitants 1-.

On quitting Poligny we began to ascend the Jura Moun—
tains, through a fine road, constructed by order of Napo—
leon, to form part of the Grande Route militairc leading to
the Simplon : and so judiciously are the ascents and descents
of this pass managed, that a drag-chain is seldom requisite
even for heavy carriages; though, between lVIorez and Les
Rousses, the road, in some few places, would be rendered
much pleasanter, and indeed much safer, by the addition of
parapet-walls.

The base of Jura presents, near Poligny, thorns,'briars,
gooseberry-bushes, beech-trees, and enormous rocks of

* Best inn at Dole, L’Hdtel de la V ille de Paris.
Jr Here are two inns, L’Htitel (10 Geneva, and L'II6lel du grand
emf,- the former is the best.

can. u. FRANCE. 53
granite. The commencement of the ascent exhibits bold
and beautiful Alpine scenery, together with a magniﬁcent
view of the vast and fertile plains of France: while not far
distant from Poligny are picturesque ruins of a spacious
Convent, seated amidst rich vineyards, and encircled by
luxuriant woods. Having reached the summit of the ﬁrst
ascent, and passed Boreau, where the rocks are strikingly
ﬁne, we traversed a comparatively tame country to Cham-
pagnole; a town of considerable size, situated on the right
bank of the Ain *. Much of this town appears recently
built; as indeed do the greater part of all the towns, vil-
lages, and pretty detached cottages on the J ura Mountains.
At Champagnole we crossed the Ain; thence proceeding
through a country adorned with pasturages, cottages, vil-
lages, and woods, to a magniﬁcent gallery, cut through the
side of lofty rocks clothed with firs to their summits; while
opposite to this gallery rise woods and mountains still more
elevated; and in a deep dell, at the base of the road, runs a
torrent whose waters further on, at the bridge of Dombief,
form a beautiful cascade. Continuing our course through
wild and sublime scenery, we reached a romantic village,
called BIaison—neuvef; beyond which, to the left, among
woods of peculiarly beautiful ﬁrs, are rocks worth notice, on
account of their whimsical shape. Having passed another
village, and driven through a ﬁne grazing country bounded
by woods, we crossed the Pont—de-Leme, and arrived at
S. Laurent 1. The road from Champagnole hither is ex-

* Here are tWo small inns, namely The Hﬂtel dc Gcnévc, and
The Hétcl dc Lyon, at either of which Travellers might break-
fast or dine; but they would be comfortless sleeping-places.

Jr Maison-neuve contains an inn where Travellers might
breakfast or dine; but it is not a sleeping-place.

j Inns, L6 Lion (001', Le Palm's Rog/a], both had.

 

54 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. can. 11.

cellent, and, generally speaking, a gradual ascent; and no
sooner does the winter-snow begin to disappear in this
country than the hedges and pasturages are adorned with
such a variety and profusion of beautiful ﬂowers as no
other part of the Alps can boast.

Quitting S. Laurent, we recrossed the Leme, driving
amidst cottages and pasturages to another magniﬁcent
gallery, cut through woods of beech and ﬁr, and terminated
by a plain. Hence we “descended for ﬁve miles, between
rocks and mountains clothed with beeches, to Morez, a con—
siderable town, seated on the river Bienne, and close to a
brawling torrent, called Le Bief de la Chaille, in a valley
so narrow as merely to admit two rows of houses and the
street which divides them. The mountains that form this
valley rise almost perpendicularly, like walls of a stupendous
height, and give Morez the appearance of being entombed
in the lowest dell of the Alps: it contains, however, some
good houses; together with 1,200 inhabitants *. Here we
were obliged to continue nearly two days; because our
passports had neither been signed by the Austrian hIinister
at Paris, nor the French lVIinister of the Interior; nor yet
at the gates of the different cities through which we had
passed. In vain I urged that they had been granted by
the French Ambassador in London, expressly for the pur-
pose of enabling us to travel through France to Italy; and
that we never were asked to show them at the gates of the
cities through which we had passed: in short, after con—
sulting every person in the town who seemed capable of
giving advice with respect to this vexatious detention, we
were compelled to send one of our servants fifteen miles,
through a dangerous road, to the Sub-Prefect of the dis-

* Inn, The Post-House, and very good.

C

can. u. FRANCE. i 55

trict; entreating him to let us proceed: and though our
petition was immediately and most handsomely granted,
we, nevertheless, found, in all the remaining part of our
journey, great inconvenience from the want of Austrian
passports; and this, indeed, is not surprising, as the Em-
peror of Austria may now be called the Ruler of Italy.

Having obtained leave to quit Morez, we proceeded to
Les Rousses, by a steep ascent, parallel with a noisy torrent,
and between immense rocks, above which tower the moun-
tains of Rezoux and Dole *, resplendent with snow; while
the near prospect presents Alpine trees, shrubs, and ﬂowers.
This road, for some miles beyond hicrez, is too narrow to
be perfectly safe, either in the dark, or after heavy rain.

Having passed Les Rousses, which contains the frontier
custom-house of France, where, however, on quitting that
kingdom, Travellers meet with no detention, we traversed
several valleys to La Vattay; thence proceeding to Gex f,
through a magniﬁcent road, or (more properly speaking),
gallery, which passes under a deep archway hewn out of a
granite rock; and exhibits, for nearly a mile, an upper
gallery made to catch the earth and stones which are con-
tinually falling from the more elevated parts of the Alp.
On the descent stands the Fonlaz'ne Napoleon, bearing an
inscription nearly obliterated. ‘ i

This side of Jura is embellished with luxuriant pas—
turages, neat cottages, and noble woods of beech and ﬁr,

* The Dole rises 3948 Paris feet above the level of the Lake
of Geneva; and is one of the 10ftiest summits of the Jura Alps.
+ Best inn, Les Balances.

.0"
56 TRAVELS ON THE GDNTINENT. ('HAP. II.

which clothe its summits: but what particularly arrests the
attention of Travellers on descending toward Gex, is a
prospect, abruptly presented to their view, of the Pays de
Vaud, the Lake of Geneva, and the stupendous Glaciers
which surround it; a prospect so perfectly unique, rich,
beautiful, and sublime, as neither to be described nor
imagined; and all I shall say of it is, that I am persuaded
there are few persons who would not think themselves re-
compensed for almost any degree of fatigue by seeing this
prospeci to advantage.

Having passed Gex, and the Villa once belonging to
Voltaire at Ferney, we entered Geneva; crossing on the
way to our hotel in that city, two Bridges, whose arches
are bathed with the waters of the Lake, which, under the
apﬁellation of the Rhone, continue their course through
France to the gulf of Lyons.

Geneva, said to contain near 30,000 inhabitants, and
anciently a strong town, belonging to the Allobroges, is
delightfully situated on the immense Lake which bears its
name; and divided into unequal parts by the Rhone. It
possesses fewer public buildings, worth notice, than almost
any other large city of Europe: but this deﬁciency is
counterbalanced by the ﬁne views from its ramparts, and

peculiar richness and beauty of its environs; which
boast a considerable number of handsome villas, and a
gr ‘at variety of delightful walks, rides, and drives.

T/u- public Library, open every Tuesday morning, from
one till three, merits notice: as it contains rare and curious
books; and an ancient Roman silver shield, adorned with
bassi-ri/z'ew', and found in the bed of the Arve, during the

CHAR n. (ENEVA. 57

year 1721 : it is said to be the only ancient Roman shield
of silver yet discovered, except two *. The Hydraulic
Machine, which supplies the fountains of the city with
water, likewise merits notice 1-. g
The Leman, or Lake of Geneva, anciently called Le-
mzmus, is computed to be about nineteen leagues in length,
and between three and four in breadth, at the widest part,

near Rolle: it abounds with ﬁne ﬁsh, and its banks are .

said to be visited by forty-nine kinds of birds.

The object generally thought best worth notice, in the
immediate vicinity of Geneva, is Voltaire’s Villa at Ferney;
which house, since the death of its ﬁrst owner, has had
many masters; but they have all deemed it sacrilege to
change any thing: and consequently the rooms are fur-
nished just the same as when he died. On entering the
hall my attention was caught by a large picture, composed
by Voltaire himself, and executed by a wretched artist
whom he met. with at Ferney. That Voltaire was the
vainest of men I have always heard; but that any man
could have the overweening vanity to compose such a pic-
ture of himself, is scarcely credible. In the fore-ground
stands this celebrated philosopher, holding the Henriade,
which he is presenting to Apollo; who has just descended

from Olympus, in order to receive it: in the back-ground

* The Library belonging to Paschoud, '21 la grande Rue, No.
205, where most of the European newspapers may be found,
contains a large collection of books.

T The best hotels in the city of Geneva are, Les Balances, and
L’Ecu (1c Genévc; at the latter of which, the charges are mo-
derate, the dinners well served, and the beds good: but the
smells in this house render it unpleasant. \l'e paid three
francs a head for dinner at the Em dc Gcnéz'c.

 

58 TRAVELS ON THWONTINENT. CHARII.

is the temple of Memory ; toward which, ﬂies Fame, at the
same time pointing to the Henriade.—The Muses and
Graces are surrounding Voltaire; and seem in the act of
carrying his bust to the temple‘ of Memory—the heroes and
heroines of the Henriade are standing astonished at his
wonderful talents—the authors who wrote against him are
falling into the infernal regions, which gape to receive them
and their works; while Envy and her Imps are expiring at

.his feet: the family of Calas likewise is exhibited in this

picture. From the hall, we entered a handsome saloon,
ornamented with a bust of Voltaire; and a design in china
for the tomb of a lady, supposed to have died in child-
birth; but who was, in fact, buried alive: it represents the
lady andher child bursting through the tomb; which is
broken, by the artist, in so natural a manner, that one feels
ready to exclaim; “ “le312 a pity it is that this beautiful
monument has met with an accident.” In Voltaire’s bed-
room are portraits of his friends; and the vase wherein his
heart was placed, before its removal to Paris: this monu-
ment is of black marble; plain, but neat; and immediately
under that place which contained the heart is written;
“ llIon esprit est partout, ct mon ca‘m' cst ici.” Over the
vase is written; “ ﬁles mamas sont consoles, puisquc man
cawr est au milieu dc z‘ous :” alluding, I presume, to the sur-
rounding portraits; namely, Frederic the Great of Prussia;
Le Kain, the celeb ‘ated French actor; Catherine II, of
Russia; and 'Madame du Chastelet. Voltaire himself is in
the centre; and in various parts of the room are Newton,
‘Milton, and several other great men, both English and

French.

Le Kain’s name reminds me of a famous French pun,
which I cannot resist mentioning. “ Cue dame Angla-isr
disoit, mz jam, quc‘ Ie Thédtrc Franpais aroit beaucoup pcrdu

a can. 11. GENEVA. 59

en perdant le céle‘bre Le Kain. Mais, (122‘ an Franpaz's, qui
se trouvoz't‘ dans cette compagm'e, nous avons eneore, parmi
nous, l’esprz't, et le merite d6 Le Kain. Comment cela .9
repliqua l’Anglaz'se.. C’est, reprit 1e Franeaz's, que Le Kain,
avant de traverser leﬂeuve, a quz‘tté ses talens sur La Rive *3’

After resting ourselves, for a day, at the Hétel d‘Angle-
terre, at Sécheron, one‘of the best inns on the continent,
and about a quarter of a league from Geneva, we hired a.
landau and four horses for three days, in order to visit the
celebrated Valley of Chamouni, and see as much of Mont-
Blanc as is practicable during so early a part of summer as
the commencement of J une-f: at ﬁve o‘clock, therefore, on
a cloudless and delightful morning, we set out from Sé-
cheron; drove through Geneva the moment the gates of
that city were opened 1, and almost immediately entered
Savoy; ﬁnding the road good, the ascents gentle, the
country abounding with corn, vineyards, and fruit—trees;
rosemary and barberry-bushes growing in and near the
hedges, and beeches, mingled with ﬁrs, crowning the
heights. At the distance of half a league from Geneva, we
passed through Chéne; and, one league further on, dﬁ.
covered, in proﬁle, the Saléve; passing, soon after, the
chateau of Blournex, and the hill and chateau of Esery.
We then crossed the Blenoge, a river which rises at the
base of the Voirons; traversed the villages of Nangi and

9" La Rive’s merit as an actor was deemed equal to that of Le
Kain.

T A Swiss cabriolet, called an chard-bane, is an excellent
carriage for this excursion; because it can go the \.."1ole way
to Chamouni; which a coach or postchaise cannot.

3: The gates tGeneva are usually opened about ﬁw ig-the
morning, and shut at ten inﬂgle evening.

1 .
60 'l‘RAVEIZS ON THE- CONTINEN’I‘. CHAP. II.

0

Contamine; and saw, towering above us, the ruins of the
castle of Fqssigny. .-

Our ﬁrst stop was at Bonneville; rather a large town,
containing two inns; either of which can furnish a good
breakfast and delicious honey. After baiting our horse:
for an hour and a half, we resumed 0111 journey; crossing
the Arve 011 a stone bridge, 005 feet in length, passing
through the small town of Cluse, and then traversing the de-
lightful valley of Maglan, rich in corn, vineyards and fruit-
trees, enamelled with ﬂowers, and encircled by enormous
and fantastically shaped Alps, crowned with woods of beech
and ﬁr, and exhibiting the most wild and picturesque
scenery imaginable. These Alps seemed gradually to in-
crease in magnitude as we advanced; while the dells,
through which our road lay, gradually grew narrower.
'l‘hree-quarters ofa league beyond hiaglan we perceived,
on our left, a magniﬁcent Cascade, called Nant-d’Arpenas,
falling from a height of 800 feet: and, shortly after, we
were presented with a view of -Mont-Blanc, which continues
tog exhibit its aweful and stupendous beauties the whole way
to *Chamouni. We now saw the town of Salenehe, seated
near a noisy torrent, at the base of cultivated mountains,
above whose lofty summits rise pyramids of eternal snow.
Leaving this town on our right, we drove to S. lWartin;
and found there a good inn, the IIétcl (Ic Alont-Blmu‘,
containing a considerable number of beds,‘and commanding
a particularly ﬁne view of that part of the mountain de-
nominated the Démc d'u Gouté. This inn likewise contains
a small cabinet of natu ‘al history for sale.

F rorp 5.1VIarti11, or Salenche, to Chamoi‘mi, is a journey
of six ()1 st‘\ e11 hours; which egg only be accomplished on
loot, on horse, 01 mule-back 01 in a (Izcu—zi- [2am . “c

:1

.201 .

"‘ 3‘ ,

mm H. THE ‘AIuPS- 61

therefore left our Geneva carriage at S. Martin, where we
slept; hiring, instead, a c/zar-d-banc, at eighteen‘ French
livres per day; three mules, at seven livres each per day;
and three Guides, at six livres each per day; beside the
Driver of the char. Our Guides were Jean Riant, Vi-
nence Riant, and Colas Dufour; and we found thEm all
civil, careful, and intelligent.

At a very early hour in the morning we left S. Martin ;‘
and not long after crossed the Nant Sauvage, a dangerous
torrent when swoln with rain: generally speaking, however,
the road, though rough, is safe; but the ~aspect of the
country between S. Martin and Servoz, particular spots
excepted, is wild and gloomy; though here, and indeed
throughout our whtﬁ excursion, we saw an inﬁnite number
of ﬂowers, intermingled with barberrymnd rosemary-bushes.
On approaching the village of Chéde, we crossed another
delicious plain; and passed through several hamlets which,
in times of civil discord,,afforded shelter to the ancient
Romans. The magniﬁcent Cascade of Chéde is about a
quarter of a league from that village; and the Lake of
Chéde, situated near the road, though small, is pretty, and
serves to reﬂect on its bosom the majestic summits of Mont-
Blanc, which is easily distinguished from its neighbours by
being the only triple-headed monster among them.

Proceeding toﬁlthe beautiful and fertile valley of Servoz,
we could not behold, without shudderingf' the ruins of an
Alp which, in its fall, menaced this luxuriant spot with
destruction; insomuch that the inhabitants ﬂed precipitately;
though not quick enough to prevent some of their children
from being crushed to- death: and the dust produc by
rocks thrown violently against each other, led peop e, at

 

1‘9

62 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHA'P. II.

ﬁrst, to imagine that this terriﬁc crash of nature proceeded
from the eruption of a volcano.

We breakfasted at Servoz, a small village containing one
solitary inn, somewhat like a hedge-alehouse in England;
but where good honey and eggs may be procured, and
likewise good coffee. Continuing our route, we passed a
stream called the Servoz; and then, crossing the Arve on
a picturesque bridge, discovered, to our right, the ruins
of the Chateau de S. Michel; and, to our left, an abyss,
where, empaled in jagged rocks of the most sombre hue,
interspersed with ﬁr-trees, flows the Arve, exhibiting a
scene sublime even to horror. After ascending some way,
by the side of this ravine, we at length entered the far-
famed valley of Chamouni; ﬁrst obsérving: the Glacier of
Taconai; then, that ’bf Bossons; and, at a distance, that of
Bois; then traversing the torrent of Nagin, the hamlet of
Ouche, the torrents of Gria, Taconia, and Bossons, and
the Arve, previous to our arrival at the town of Chamouni.
This town owes' its existence to a convent of Benedictines,
founded, in 1099, by a Count of Geneva; but the valley in
which it stands might probably have been unknown at the
present period, if two English Gentlemen, Messrs. Windham
and Pocock, had not, in the year 1741, discovered it; and
given to modern Europe details respecting a place which,
even the Natives of Geneva, though only eighteen leagues
distant, had never heard of. It is situated three thousand
one hundred aiid seventy-four feet above the level of the
Midﬁerranean sea; and contains two inns, both tolerably
good. '

The verdant clothing of the singular valley of Chamouni
is b‘eautifully contrasted with cloud-capped mountains sil-

CIIAP. II. THE ALPS. 63

voted by eternal snow; gloomy forests, chieﬂy composed of
ﬁrs; cottages and hamlets scattered here and there; brawling
torrents, and rocks of red porphyry and granite, interspersed
with glaciers of a dazzling whiteness, whence rise sea-green
pyramids of ice which, when illuminated either by the sun
or moon, exhibit a prospect unique and wonderful; but,
nevertheless, so much has been said in praise of this valley,
that I own I felt disappointed on seeing it.

The botanist and mineralogist may ﬁnd ample amuse-
ment at Chamouni: and here, as at S. lVIartin, there is, for
sale, a cabinet of natural history, containing minerals of
lVIont—Blanc and S. Gothard; seals, necklaces, 8L0. made of
the crystal of Blont-Blanc ; together with insects and plants
indigenous to the higher Alps. The honey of Chamouni is
excellent.

Every part of the valley presents a view of Mont-Blane:
this gigantic Alp, primeval with a world whose several
changes it has quietly witnessed, is said, by Mr. de Luc, to
be ﬁfteen thousand three hundred and three English feet,
and, by lVIonsieur de Saussure, seventeen thousand seven
hundred Paris feet above the level of the Mediterranean
sea: while the crust of snow, on its sides and summits, is
supposed to exceed four hundred feet in depth. The ﬁrst
persons who ever reached the top of this stupendous moun-
tain, seem to have been Jacques Balmat of Chamouni and
Doctor Paccard: they went in the year 17%, and in 1787
were followed by Mons. de Saussure and an English Gen-
tleman. Without aspiring so high as to think of following
their steps, we felt a great inclination to ascend to the Mer
de Glace .- but, on enquiry, it appeared that the Montanmrt,
which leads to the Mer de Glace, was so much clogged with
snow, and threatened by avalanches, as to be impassable:

 

 

64 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. II.

our Guides, however, assured us that, by mounting the
Chapeau, a giddying eminence opposite to Montanvert, we
might obtain the gratiﬁcation of our wishes, sofar as to see the
Mew dc Glace; though we could not, by that path, reach it.
Taking a hasty dinner, therefore, at Chamouni, we ordered
our mules and c/zar-(i-banc; bidding the Guides provide the
customary walking-sticks at Chamouni, which are six feet
in length, with a sharp iron spike at the end of each. We
then mounted our c/zar, attended by the Guides; who, when
seated on their mules, and armed with our spear—like walking-
sticks, very much resembled knights-errant of old; though
not arrayed quite comme z'l faut for a tournament. \Ve
drove during half an hour through a good road; but were
then obliged, owing to the rapidity of the ascent, to leave
our carriage, and mount the mules: these animals conveyed
us safely through a dirty hamlet; and up part of the
Chapeau; till the road became so rugged, and the ascent so
very steep, that we deemed it more prudent to trust to our
own feet than those of the mules; and, each of us taking
the arm of a Guide, we pursued our way by walking at the
extreme edge of terriﬁc precipices, through a path so rugged
that nothing but the spiked sticks with which we penetrated
the ground at every step, could have prevented us from
falling. By perseverance, however, we attained the wished-
for height; and discovered, immediately above us, the ﬁlm-
de Glace; though not that part which exhibits an unequal
surface; but the smooth margin whence descends an im-
mense glacier; V posite to which we stood a full half hour,
listening to the noise of distant and near avalanches; which
the stillness of the scene rendered doubly audible; and con-
templating the extraordinary appearance of the glacier;
which‘l can compare to nothing but a narrow and tem-
pestuous ocean, whose towering waves have been suddenly
rendered motionless by an All-powerful Hand.

CHAP. II. THE ALPS. ' 65

Our journey to and from the Chapeau occupied three
hours and a half: we therefore returned late to Chamouni:
and, after having entered our names, and made our remarks
in the Travellers’ book, which is a curious composition, we
rested a few hours; and then set out early next morning for
Geneva, under a sky perfectly serene and cloudless.

From Chamouni to Servoz we were three hours in re-
turning—from Servoz to S. Martin three and a half—from
S. Martin to Bonneville four—and from Bonneville to
Geneva three and a half.

The price charged for dinner, at S. Martin and Cha-
mouni, is five francs a head—for beds, two francs a head——
and for breakfast, two francs and a half per head.

There is a mule-road, nine leagues in distance, from
Chamouni to Martigny, which leads to S. Bernard and
the Simplon *1

* Persons who visit Chamouni at the proper season for
ascending the ﬁlontanvcrt, should engage careful and judicious
Guides ; and likewise hire a Porter to carry cold provisions and
wine. Ladies sometimes go part of the way in c/zaz'ses-r‘L-porteur;
for each of which it is requisite to have six Chairmen, *but
good Walkers had much better trust to their feet.

It being a work of full three hours to ascend the ﬁlontanvert,
and then descend to the ﬂier dc Glace, it is advisable to set out
from Chamouni by seven in the morning. For about one league
and a quarter, there is a safe mule-road, lying through forests
of ﬁrs, which exhibit traces of ancient avalanches, enormous
blocks of granite, and large trees laid prostrate; but on .-
tering a narrow and rugged path, called Le Chcmin des Crgsgal-
liars, it is no longer practicable to go on mules: here, therefore,
these animals are usually sent back to Me Source qfﬂzc Améron.

VOL. I. F

 

 

 

66 'TnAans on THE CONTINENT. CHAP. 11.

Having determined to pursue the shortest route from
Geneva to the Simplon, by passing through Savoy ; instead

The view near alittle Fountain, called Le Caillet, merits notice ;
as the Arve, in the plain beneath, appears, from this elevated
spot, like a thread; the Bourg like card-houses; and the ﬁelds
and meadows like the squares of a chess-board, or beds in a
ﬂower-garden embellished with various shades of green. Beyond
this fountain the road is excessively steep and rugged, though
not dangerous; and after passing the Hdpital de Blair, built by
an English Gentleman of that name, the Traveller is presented
with a sight of the llIer de Glace; to reach which, occupies a
full quarter of an hour; and persons who venture to walk upon
its surface should be especially careful to aVOid the cracks and
chasms with which it abounds : the colour these chasms assume
is a beautiful sea-green; and the waves of this frozen ocean,
which from the top of Montancert appear like furrows in a
corn-ﬁeld, are now discovered to be hillocks from twenty to
forty feet high. The ﬁler de Glace is eight leagues in length,
and one in breadth; and on its margin rise pyramidical rocks,
called Needles, whose summits are lost in the clouds; they
likewise are denominated the Court of their august Sovereign,
Mont-Blane; who glitters, on the opposite side, in stately rc-
pose; and being far more exalted than her attendants, veils in
the heavens, which she seems to prop, a part of her sublime and
majestic beauties. From the Mcr dc Glace Travellers usually
reascend the Blontanrert, and dine either at l'Hdpital dc Blair, or
La pierre des Anglnis; an immense block of granite, so called
because Messrs. Windham and Pocock, in 1741, made it their
dinner-table, after they had penetrated, without a Guide, into
these unknown regions. Hence is the descent to the Source g”
the Arvéron, through the C/zemin (its Cbévres; a short but ex~
tymely rugged path; on pursuing which it is not uncommon
to see avalanches fall from the surrounding mountains, and
pyramids of ice tumble with a tremendous crash and roll to the
bottom of ZlIomam‘ert, at whose base is the Source of the Arm‘-

CHAP. II. THE ALPS. 67

of going round by Lausanne, and the Pays de Vaud; we
set out for Cologny; traversing a ﬁne road, bordered with
fruit-trees, corn-ﬁelds and vineyards, and bounded by the
Jura mountains on the right, and the Lake of Geneva, with
its stupendous glaciers, on the left. We then crossed a
bridge, which marks the limits between the territories of
Geneva and Savoy; observed a ﬁnely situated, old castle,
and discovered Cenis, with great part of the lofty chain to
which that Alp belongs. On arriving at Dovaine in Savoy,
where the custom-house oﬂicers expect to be feed by tra-

ron; after examining which, Travellers usually re-mount their
mules, and return to Chamouni.

The inhabitants of this country are well-looking, sensible,
honest, and remarkably fearless. The woods are peopled with
rabbits, white hares, martens, and ermines; the rocks with
marmots and the sagacious chamois. These last-named animals
live together in ﬂocks: and generally feed in valleys where no
sportsman can penetrate; while a few are constantly detached
from the main body, as scouts 5 and others perform the duty of
centinels. The courage and agility with which the chamois
leaps from precipice to precipice, and scales rocks almost per-
pendicular, should teach the boldest Alpine Travellers not to feel
vain of their achievements. V

Persons who wish to vary their route back to Geneva, may
return by the Col de Balms ; from whose summit the Vallais, the
Rhone, the great and the small S. Bernard, the passages of
Cenis and the Simplon, S. Gothard, and the Alps of Berne and
Unterwalde, are all discoverable; While the sublimity of this
extensive view is greatly heightened by a near prospect of
Mont-Blanc and her surrounding Needles. I would, however,
rather advise Travellers to return by Six, Samoe'ns and Thonon;
whence it is easy to embark upon the Lake, and proceed to
Geneva. Going all the way by land, the distance is ﬁfteen
leagues.

F 2

 

} «>-

68 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CIIAP. II.

vellers, we had our trunks plumbed, in order to secure them
from examination; and then proceeded to T hon0n*; the
road to which place exhibits a particularly ﬁne view of the
Lake, encircled by the Pays de V and, the Jura, the plains
of Savoy, and the great Alps; and winds through a country
abounding with corn and vines, trained in the Italian
manner, from tree to tree.

Thonon‘, the ancient capital of the Duchy of Chablais,
is pleasantly situated on the Lake. The site of the Castle
merits notice; and at a small distance from the town is the
Convent of Ripaille. Hence we drove to Evian (celebrated
for its mineral waters); crossing the Dranse, on a long nar-
row bridge, apparently built by the ancient Romans: but
what especially charmed us in this part of the road, was the
bold and varied outline presented by the Alps; together
with the picturesque ruins of an ancient Castle, beautifully
surrounded with woods of intermingled walnut and chesnut-
trees. Soon after passing this ruin, our road conducted us
to the very brink of the Lake, shaded by trees of the before-
named description; the town of hIorge being exactly op-
posite; and, still further to the left, that of Lausanne. A
fishing boat, rowed by women and children, and a vessel
laden with wood for Geneva, gave additional interest to this
delightful scene.

Continuing our.course by the side of the Lake, we
reached the rocks of Mcillerie1- (immortalized by Rous-
seau); which exhibit striking proofs of the obstacles pre-

* Inn, Les Balances. and not very comfortable as a sleeping-
place.

f A ﬁsh, called the Lotte of Meillerie, is much admired by
Epicures.

CHAP. it. THE ALPS. 69

sented, by nature, to the formation of the new military road
made by Napoleon, and cut through masses of stone two
hundred feet high; which tower, on one side, above the
Traveller; whilst, on the other, rise two walls, the first
serving as a parapet, the second strengthening the founda-
tions of the road, and preventing them from being washed
away by the Lake, on whose bed they rest. Near S. Gin-
goux a gorge in the mountains (which are here broken
into forms indescribably wild and magniﬁcent), discovers
the source of the Amphion, celebrated for the before-named
mineral waters, which enrich Evian. Vevey is seen on the
opposite shore. S. Gingoux belongs to the Vallais; and
the post-house, a good inn which contains twenty beds, is

_ situated beautifully, near the termination of the Lake, where

it loses itself in the Rhone. Immediately after leaving S.
Gingoux we noticed some pretty streamlets ; which, as they
trickle down the rocks, form themselves into crystallizations.
Pursuing our way to Vionnaz, we found the prospects gra—
dually increase in sublimity as we approached the Alps, at
whose feet the road winds in the most picturesque manner
possible, amongst well—planted orchards enamelled with
ﬂowers. From Vionnaz we proceeded to S. Maurice;
crossing a wooden bridge curiously constructed, with a roof
somewhat resembling such as are used in England to cover
farm—houses; and thrown over one of the most noisy and
rapid torrents I ever beheld. We then passed a hermitage,
which had long presented itself to view, and particularly
attracted our notice, from its romantic situation on a lofty
eminence crowned by woods, with a majestic mountain
forming a vast screen behind them. The Rhone shortly
after discovered itself; adding much to the interest of the
scenery; as its opposite shore presented bold overhanging
rocks, richly adorned with foliage; while before us rose a
magniﬁcent stone bridge, two hundred feet in length, and

s

‘h?

70 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CRAP. I].

a Roman work; one end being bounded by a tower,
now converted into a chapel, and the other by a castle,
through part of which the road to S. Maurice has evi-
dently been cut, and now passes over a draw—bridge.
This town is placed in a peculiarly wild and beautiful
situation, at the base of a long chain of rocks; some of
which are excavated to form houses. The only antiquity I
heard of at S: Maurice is a curious mosaic pavement. The
Theban Legion was massacred near this spot by order of
the Emperor Maximian *. On our way hence, to Martigny,
the country at ﬁrst presented no striking objects, except the
Dent du Midi, and the Dent de Morcles (two Alps which
rise seven thousand feet above the level of the Rhone) and
at a distance Mont-Velan and Mont-Valsoray, which make
part of the group of the Grand S. Bernard, and rise more
than ten thousand feet above the level of the sea. We had
not, however, driven long amidst this Alpine solitude, ere
our road Conducted us to the bottom of a magniﬁcent Cas—
cade, called The Pissevache; and formed by a river, named
the Salanche, falling from an immense height, though not
above an hundred feet perpendicularly. This cascade is
illuminated, in the forenoon, by the sun; and displays all
the colours of the rainbow: but, after twelve o’clock, these
terrestrial rainbows cease; while the river, broken by its
fall, seems transformed into a brilliant sheet of gauze, with
which it veils the rocks from whose summit it rushes.

Report says that, at the top of this cascade, are frequently
found trout; which could in no way get thither, but by
leaping, or rather ﬂying upward.

* S. Maurice contains a remarkably good inn, L’Hdlel a’e
1' Union.

CHAP. 11. THE ALPS. 71

Not far distant from the Pissevache we passed the Pont
du Trient, exhibiting a rivulet that issues from a remarkable
opening in the rocks; the two sides of which, thus divided
by the stream, are quite perpendicular, and nearly twelve
hundred feet high.

Martigny, seated near the entrance of the great Valley of
the Rhone, where the roads from France, Italy, and Chamouni
meet, was a well-built and ﬂourishing town, till nearly de-
stroyed by a sudden and dreadful inundation of the Dranse;
which occurred not long ago. Liberal subscriptions, how-
ever, from the benevolent inhabitants of the neighbouring
countries, have enabled the people of Martigny to rebuild
several of their houses, which were thrown down and swept
away; and likewise to repair other ravages caused by the
inundation. There is an old fortress here, separated from
the town by the Dranse, which issues from the adjacent
mountain of S. Bernard, and unites its waters with those of
the Rhone near this spot. The valley of the Rhone is the
most extensive in Switzerland; as from the Alps of La
Fourclze, where it commences, to the Lake of Geneva, where
it terminates, is thirty-six leagues. Two excellent wines are
made near Martigny, the one called Coquempin, and the
other La Marque ,- and a great variety of rare plants may
also be found in this neighbourhood *.

On quitting Martigny, to proceed through Riddes to
Sion, we drove, for a short time, between steril rocks and
mountains: but the face of the country soon changed, ex-
hibiting luxuriant pasturages, vineyards, villages, churches,
oratories, and remains of ancient castles: indeed, this ap-

* La grande Maison at Martigny is a good inn; and La
Cignc, though small, is clean and comfortable.

'72 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. II.

proach to Sion, through the Valley of the Rhone, displays
the height of cheerful beauty, united with almost every
object that may be called sublime :—the ﬂat ground is in-
tersected with rivers, and enriched by cultivation; the near
mountains are studded with villas, and other buildings, of a
dazzling whiteness; and the horizon is bounded by Alps of
an enormous magnitude, blanched with eternal snow.

Sion, anciently Sedummz, and in German Sz'tz‘en, the
capital of the Haut—Vallais, and built partly on the right
bank of the Rhone, and partly on the river Sitten, is a very
old Swiss Bishoprick; and contains several convents, six
churches, a hospital, and an hotel de ville. The town stands
on the declivity of three hills; each being crowned by :1
Castle: in the lowermost, called hiayoria, or'1\Ieyerbourg,
the Bishop usually resides: the second bears the name of
Valeria ; and the third, called Tourbillon, contains portraits
of all the Bishops of Sion since the year 300. Several
Roman antiquities are discoverable in this town; among
which, and near the great door of the cathedral, is a half-
effaced Inscription in honour of Augustus *. Above Sion,
to the right, and seated on rocks difficult of access, are the
castles of 86011 and Blontorges; objects particularly cal-
culated to attract the attention of a landscape-painter: and
on the opposite side, in the Commune of Brémes, is a
curious Hermitage, comprehending a church and Cloister,
with several cells, all hewn out of the solid rock. Near Sion
ﬂows the river Merges, which marks the limits between the
Haut and Bas-Vallais.

From Sion we proceeded to Sierre, through a beautiful

* Le'Lz'on (Z’Or is a good inn; and Lu Croft Liane/ac, though

less good, is tolerable.

 

CHAP. II. THE ALPS. ‘ 73

country rich in vineyards and pasturages, and watered by
the Rhone. Sierre, seated on the banks of the stream whose
name it bears, is one of the prettiest Bourgs of the Haut-
Vallais: but its inhabitants are particularly liable to goitrous
swellings; owing, it is said, to the unwholesomeness of the
water they are compelled to drink *. German is the lan-
guage spoken at Sierre, and throughout the Haut-Vallais.
After quitting Sierre, we crossed the Rhone, traversed the
forest of Finges, and passed the town of Leuck, behind
which opens the gorge of the Dala, and part of the lofty
and steril Mont-Gemmi. \Ve then drove to Tourtemagnc Jr;
on approaching which we were presented with a View of the
whole chain of Alps that connects the Simplon and S.
Gothard: but the country, as the valley narrows, becomes
marshy and barren. ‘Vithin half a mile of the hotels at
‘Tourtmagne, but not in the high-road, is a \Vater-fall, less
magnificent than the Pissevache, though more beautiful in
point of situation, and well worth notice.

Hence we drove to Viege, in German V 2'31), or Vispaclr,
standing on the banks of the Visp, a river equal in size
with the Rhone; and, beyond the bridge which crosses the
Visp, towers the summit of Mont-Rose. From Viege we

* I have observed that women who carry heavy burdens on
their heads are generally afﬂicted with this malady; not only
in the neighbourhood of the Alps, but in other situations where
the height of the mountains is, comparatively speaking, mo-
derate: and I am, therefore, inclined to think, that goitrous
swellings may sometimes originate from a strain given to the
throat by an over-burden carried on the head.

1- In German, Turtmamz. Here are two Inns, Le Soleil, and
Le Lion d’Or, the former of which, though small, is clean and
comfortable.

74 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. u.

proceeded to Brigg: for though Glise is the regular post,
Brigg (a post-town likewise) is the better stopping place,
and not more than half a mile out of the great road. Soon
after quitting Viege, we passed Gambsen, and the entrance
to the valley of Nantz; crossing a torrent, called the
Saltine, near which the country is marshy; and then tra-
versing the bed of the Rhone, till our arrival at Brigg",
one of the handsomest towns of the Haut-Vallais, and
situated opposite to the base of the Simplon; the lower
part of which exhibits luxuriant meadows, interspersed
with fruit and foreshtrees, oratories and cottages; while
the heights are adorned with hermitages, cascades, and
noble woods of ﬁr.

To the left of Brigg is the pretty village of Naters,
washed by the Rhone, which descends from the summits of
the Fourche and the :sombre valleys of the Axe. This
river receives, in the vicinity of Brigg, the waters of the
Saltine, which come from the Simplon, together with those
of Kelchback, which descend from the Belp-Alp and the
Blatten. The adjacent mountains abound with deep dells;
and, to the north, rise the rocks of Nesthorn, and part of
the Upper-Glacier of Aletsch.

In order to appropriate an entire day to the passage of
the Simplon, anciently called Alums prz'om's, orSenzjn‘onii,
and one of the loftiest of the Italian Alps, we slept at
Brigg; and set out with the dawn, next morning, equally
favoured in point of weather as during our expedition to
Mont-Blanc; for there was not a cloud in the sky. The

journey, either from Glise or Brigg, over the Simplon

* The Post-House at Brigg is a comfortable inn; as is T/ae
H6tcl d’dnglclcrrc.

saga:

 

CHAP. II. THE ALPS. 75

to Domo-D’Ossola, a distance of fourteen leagues, gene-
rally occupies about twelve hours. The new military road,
planned by Napoleon, in 1801, was ﬁnished in 1805, at the
joint expense of the kingdoms of France and Italy*: its
breadth throughout is twenty-ﬁve Paris feet; the number
of bridges, thrown across the rocks, is ﬁfty; and the number
of grottoes (chieﬂy hewn out of solid masses of granite),
ﬁve: and so gradual, on both sides of the mountain, is the
inclination of this wonderful road, that to drag the wheels,
even of heavy carriages, is needless. The work was con-
ducted, on the side of the Haut-Vallais, by French
Engineers; and, on the Italian side, by the Cavaliere
Giovanni Fabbroni ; who, though long distinguished for
devoting his eminent abilities to the service of his country 1-,
has, in this instance, exceeded himself; as, beside every
other impediment, he had Herculean difﬁculties to sur—
mount even in the soil; for he was compelled to pierce
through, and blow up, the hardest and most refractory
rocks existing; while the French Artiﬁcers, generally
speaking, met with no obstacle, except masses of slate, in

many places already decomposed i.

* As this is the shortest practicable route, from German
Switzerland and the Haut-Vallais into the Milanese, it has
always been the track pursued by the Milan Courier 5 though,
frequently, at the peril of his life: for the earthquake of 1755,
which destroyed Lisbon, nearly blocked up this passage of the
Alps ; so that Napoleon found it needful to employ three thou-
sand men between three and four years in constructing the new
road.

1'- To this Gentleman Florence owes the celebrated anatomical
waxwork which enriches the Museum of Natural History in
that city ; though the invention was ascribed to the Cav.
Fontana.

: The quantity of gun-powder used in blowing up the rocks,

‘76 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. n.

This road is the only passage of the Alps which human
la ur has made practicable for heavy waggons and artil-
li): and when we contemplate the stupendous height of
.the Simplon, the numerous and appalling precipices with
which it abounds, the impetuous torrents which deluge its
sides, and the tremendous avalanches by which its woods
are frequently rooted up, and its rocks overthrown, we
cannot but acknowledge that Men who, in deﬁance of
obstructions such as these, could form a road exempt even
from the appearance of danger, capable of braving the
most furious storms, resisting the giant-hand of Time, and
conducting human beings, cattle, and every. kind of car—
riage, quickly and safely, during all seasons of the year,
through regions of eternal snow, deserve, in point of genius,
to be ranked not only with, but even above the ancient
Romans; whose works of this description, surprising as
they are, can, in no instance, vie with the descent into
Italy, from the cloud—capped village of Simplon to the rich
vale of Domo—D’Ossola—and yet, to the shame of the
nineteenth century, nations inimical to France attempted,
at the close of the last dreadful war, to destroy the parapet—
walls, and burn the bridges—in short, to annihilate the
road—happily, however, these acts of barbarism have
hitherto done no material mischief; but, unless the Glacier
gallery and grotto be cleared of snow, toward the com-
mencement of every summer, as was the practice during the
reign of Napoleon, this eighth wonder of the world, this
universal beneﬁt to Europe, will ultimately be rendered

useless.
But to return to the description of our journey: after

to form the road on the Italian side of the Simplon, is said to

have been 17,500 pounds.

F, _ 'w .
ii i

CHAP. II. THE ALPS. 1:177

taking a cross-road ﬁom Brigg, to get into the great
military route, we passed, on the right, one of the ﬁr t
works of the ascent to Simplon ; a Bridge thrown over it
Saltine , and consisting of a lofty and beautiful single arch,

covered, at the top, to prese1 ve from rain the timber of which
it is composed. VVe then passed on the left a chapel, with
several small oratories leading to it; and began to ascend,
by bold and beautiful windings, to a dark forest of ﬁrs;
the openings of which presented us with views of the Valley
of the Rhone, encircled by snow-crowned Alps; their
gigantic Empress, Mont-Blane, proudly towering above
them all; and, in consequence of her enormous height, ap-
pearing close to us, though really far distant. Engrossed by
the sublimity of the'scene, we continued to ascend, almost
imperceptibly to ourselves; till, on traversing precipices
whose bases are washed by a roaring torrent, we discovered,
with surprise, that we had attained an eminence which
hindered us from distinguishing the sound of its brawl.

This part of the road is cut through crumbling rocks;
and in order to prevent the loose fragments above from
falling upon Travellers, broad paths are made in the upper-
part of these rocks, to catch whatever may be thrown down,
either by tempests, or cascades, or avalanches; while the
road itself is supported by a strong wall of granite, varying
in height according to the inequalities of the ground upon
which it rests; and in some places measuring two hundred
feet.

After reaching what is called the ﬁrst Gallery (though,
in fact, the whole road might properly be denominated a
continued series of serpentine galleries and grottoes, rising
one above the other, and united by stupendous arches of
the most chaste and elegant construction); we crossed the

78 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. II.

Kanter on a bridge eighty feet in height; and so built, as

1‘ to be incapable of receiving any injury from the annual

, [ting of the Winter-snow; there being, at certain
distances, cavities, through which the water discharges
'itself, without hurting the work: and this judicious plan is
likewise pursued with respect to all the parapets and
foundation-walls.

Fine cascades and beautiful deep dells alternately pre—
sented themselves to view, till we reached, in four hours
from the time of our departure from Brigg, the third
Refuge; where we breakfasted. These Refuges, placed at
short distances from each other, in the most exposed situa-
tions on the Simplon, are small buildings, meant to shelter
men, cattle, and carriages, in case of sudden storms; and
numbered “ lst Refuge,” “ 2d Refuge,” &c.; an appel-
lation particularly well chosen, as its meaning is the same
in almost every modern language.

After passing the third Refuge, we observed an inﬁnite
variety of Alpine ﬂowers growing amidst lawns of turf,
short and soft as velvet; we then crossed the bridges of
Oesback and the Saltine (near the former of which is a
magniﬁcent cascade); and, soon after, entered a Grotto
thirty paces in length; leaving to our left the Glacier of
Kaltwasser, from which descend four cascades, whose
waters traverse the route, in aqueducts of a masterly con-
struction, and then precipitate themselves into chasms
below. Continuing to ascend through easy, bold, and
beautiful sinuosities, we reached an eminence exposed to
violent gusts of wind, where trees cease to ﬂourish, and
ﬂowers no longer enamel the earth; and where a recent
avalanche has rooted up the blighted ﬁrs and larches, and
suspended them on each other, over the yawning abyss

can. 11. THE ALPS. ‘ 79

underneath, in a manner we shuddered even to contem-

plate. ,9

a

Not far distant from this picture of desolation is the
Glacier Grotto, ﬁfty paces in length, and cut through solid
masses of ice; on coming out of which, we ascended to the
most elevated point of the whole passage; and found our-
selves on every side surrounded by eternal snow. Here,
and here only, that is, immediately previous to entering,
and immediately after quitting the Glacier Grotto, the road
was bad; not, however, in consequence of any radical
defect; but merely because the Cantonm'ers had neglected
to clear the snow away *. On the right of this. spot we dis.
covered, beneath us, the ancient Hospice, now peopled by
Monks belonging to the Grand S. Bernard; and, on the
left, above us, the magniﬁcent foundations of the new Con-
vent and Barracks. We then passed the bridge of Senkel-
bach; and descended to the village of Simplon; noticing,
on our way, a vast reservoir of water; one part of which
ﬂows down into Italy, while the other irrigates France, by
forming a ramiﬁcation of the Rhone.

From the third Refuge to the sixth, which stands at the
most elevated point of the passage, near the Barrier, we
were two hours in going; and thence, to the inn at Sim:
plon, half an hour. This inn is situated three thousand
two hundred and sixteen Paris feet above the level of the
Mediterranean sea: but neither here, nor even while pass-

* The Cantonniers, instituted by Napoleon to keep this route
in repair, have been cruelly reduced in number by the King of
Sardinia; although the tax imposed for their maintenance, and
amounting to nearly one Louis-d’or per four—wheeled carriage,
if on springs, is still paid at the Barrier.

 

 

~ ..—.___.w .. M My.“ .__..—._

“We .—

m

 

J...

80 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. II.

ing the Glacier Gallery, and the heights beyond it (which‘
four thousand six hundred and ninety Paris feet above

Qh‘é level of the lVIediterranean), did fexperience the slightest
sensation of cold: the day, however (as has been already
noticed), was especially favourable; affording us continual
sunshine, without one gust of wind ;—agremens seldom met

with by the Alpine Traveller.

After dining on delicious trout at the Village of Sim-
plon *, a little hamlet encircled by the summits of the
enormous Alp whose name it bears; we set out to descend
into Italy, through a pass which exhibits scenes it would be

vain to attempt particularizing, as they beggar description.

The commencement of the descent exhibits, on each side,
lofty and barren rocks, with a considerable space between
them; and, on the left, a thundering torrent: but, soon
after quitting the village of Simplon, we found these rocks
gradually approach each other, becoming perpendicular,
and scarcely leaving sufﬁcient space for the road.

Having crossed the bridges of Lowibach and Kronbach,
we arrived at Steig; where the union of the Kronbach and
the Quirna, which descend the glacier of Lavin through a

gorge in the rocks to the right, form the river Vedro, or

Diverio, whose wild and impetuous course the road follows,
till within a short distance of Domo—D‘Ossola. About a
league and a half from Steig is an isolated inn; soon after
passing which, we entered a narrow ravine, and crossed the
river several times, by means of stupendous bridges, till we
came to the third Grotto, eighty paces in length; after

* The inn here, Le Soleil, is particularly good; and Tra-
vellers are, I believe, likewise received at L’IIospice.

can. H. Ti! a ALPS. 81

quitting which, we approached the magniﬁcent cascade of
F rissinone; whose waters precipitate themselves from a rock
so high that they seem lost in aethcr ere they reach the
foaming bed of the Diverio which receives them, After
passing this cascade, we entered the fourth Grotto, deemed
the most wonderful work of the Simplon; it being two
hundred and two paces in length, lofty in proportion, and
cut, with exquisite taste and skill, through solid rocks of
granite. Scarcely had we passed this Grotto, before a
sudden turn of the road presented us with another cascade,
formed by the torrent which issues from the gorge of
Zwischbergen, and falls perpendicularly and with such
clamorous violence close to the Traveller, that, startled
and alarmed by the scene, we felt, for a moment, as if it
would be impossible to proceed with safety. Below the
gloomy village of Gondo is a chapel which marks the Italian
confine; and further still are the Italian hamlets of S. Marco
and Isella; at the latter of which Travellers are visited by
Milanese custom-house oﬂicers, for the purpose of obtaining
money. After quitting these sombre hamlets, we entered
the still more sombre gorge of Yeselles, empaled by per-
pendicular rocks, from whose summits fall cascades suf-
ﬁcient to supply whole rivers; and echoing with the tre-
mendous roar of the Diverio; whose waters rush furiously
through enormous fragments of dissevered rocks, sometimes
exhibiting all the colours of the rainbow, and at others
boiling and foaming into gulfs, which can only be com—
pared to the Chaos of Milton and the Ilgﬁ'mo of Dante.
This narrow, awful, and appalling gorge extends to Di—
vedro; a place said to stand at the height of one thousand
seven hundred and eighty-two Paris feet above the level of
the Mediterranean sea; but situated on a fertile, and indeed
a pleasant spot, notwithstanding the gloomy aspect of the
G

82 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. I].

mountains by which it is encompassed *. From Divedro
We descended into another equally wild and narrow gorge,
called Val-Divedro; crossing two bridges, and driving
through the ﬁfth and last Grotto, eighty paces in length.
We then proceeded to Crevola, once more crossing the
Diverio on a magniﬁcent Bridge, sixty paces in length, and
deemed a master-piece of architecture. Hence, as we ap-
proached Demo-D’Ossola, the rocks and mountains gra-
dually receded; till the base of the Simplon presented a
landscape thickly studded with villages and vineyards; and
the rich and extensive plains of Italy opened to our view;
forming a delicious and most striking contrast to the
sublime and terriﬁc solitude from which we had so recently

emerged.

The descent, from the village of Simplon to Domo—
D’Ossola, is usually accomplished in five hours and a half;
and the latter town contains two good Inns f.

VVishing to visit the Borromean Islands, on our way to
Milan, we embarked at Baveno 1', on the Lago Maggiore;

* Divedro contains a tolerable inn.

1- The Hdtel de la Ville, and The Hdtel d'Evpugne.

I have passed the Simplon twice; namely, in May, 1817;
and in June, 1819; the first time travelling en coiturier, the
second time going post ; and the number of hours employed in
crossing this Alp, was both times precisely the same. From Brigg
to the village of Simplon (as I have already mentioned) we
were six hours and a half in ascending; and thence to Demo-
D’Ossola ﬁve hours and a half in descending: from Dome:
D'Ossola to the village of Simplon we were seven hours in
ascending; and thence to Brigg ﬁve hours in descending.

; It is possible to, embark at Fariolo, the post previous to

cusp. n. ITALY. 83

previously pursuing the great military road, (which extends
to Milan;) and passing two ﬁne bridges; opposite to the
latter of which is the Valley of Mont-Rose, an Alp very
little inferior in height to blont-Blanc *.

The Lago Maggiore, sometimes called Lago Locarno,
and anciently Verbanus, is reputed to be about ﬁfty-six
Italian miles in length; about six in breadth; and, toward
the centre, about eighty fathoms deep. The picture, pre-
sented by this Lake, is enchanting; its banks being adorned
by forest-trees, olives, and vineyards, interspersed with
hamlets, white as snow, and enriched with villas and other
ediﬁces, remarkable for the variety and elegance of their con-
struction; while, on its bosom, rise three little‘Islands, two of
which contain palaces and gardens belonging to the family
of S. Carlo Borromeo. Isola Bella generally strikes Tra-
vellers as the most beautiful of these islands f. Half a
mile distant from Isola Bella, toward the west, is Isola
Pescatori; and about a mile distant, toward the north,
Isola bladre. The passage from Isola Bella to Isola
Madre seldom occupies more time than half an hour. The
latter, at which we landed ﬁrst, is about half a league from
the shore, and consists of four gardens, or rather terraces,

Baveno; but the latter is the more convenient place; because
boats are always in waiting there to convey Travellers to the
Borromean Islands and the Lake of Como: the price of a boat,
for the former expedition, being four livres per rower ; and
the time requisite for seeing the Islands ﬁve or six hours. The
inn at Baveno is tolerably good.

* The valley of Mont-Rose possesses gold-mines; and the
grapes here are trained round trees whose branches are so
managed as to resemble baskets.

1 This island contains an inn furnished with clean beds;
and where good dinners may be procured at four francs a head.

G 2

 

.5 "7‘

84 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAR“.

one above the other, embellished with luxuriant ﬂowers,
shrubs, and forest-trees; and crowned by a Palace, where
the objects best worth notice are; a Madonna and Child,
with other pictures, all painted on marble, and attributed
to Pcrugino—S. Thomas Aquinus, ascribed to Guercino—
S. Geronimo, ascribed to Correggio—Erasmus, and Beli-
sarius, ascribed to Schidone—a painting. on marble, sup-
posed to‘ have been done by Albano—the prodigal Son,
ascribed to Guercino—a portrait ascribed to Titian—a
Smith’s shop, by Bassano—the Madonna, our Saviour, &c.;
landscapes by Tempesta *—four

 

ascribed to Giordano
cattle-pieces; together with some paintings attributed to
Giovanni Belino, Andrea dcl Sarto, and Annibale Caracci.

We proceeded next to Isola Bella; which consists of eight
terraces, one above the other, carpeted with odorif‘erons
ﬂowers, enriched with exotics, refreshed by fountains,
shaded with forest-trees, and crowned by a noble palace ;,
which contains Paintings by T empesta, a ﬁne Bust of S.
Carlo Borromeo, by Franchif, and a large subterranean
Apartment, ﬁtted up to imitate a series of grottoes, in a
manner equally singular and tasteful; and which, during
hot weather, must be delicious. After viewing this abode
of Calypso, we embarked for Scsto-Calende; landing, how-
ever, by the way, at Arona; and then walking about three.

* This artist, after having murdered his wife, in order to
espouse a prettier woman, took refuge here.

T S. Carlo Borromeo is universally ackowledged to have
been a peculiarly benevolent Character 5 one of his family was
as notoriously wicked; and the rest, though worthy in the
common acceptation of the word, were not in any respect dis-
tinguished; a circumstance which occasioned the following
remark; “ That one Borromeo belonged to Heaven, another
to Hell, and the remainder to Earth."

CHAP. n. . ITALY. 85

quarters of _a mile, through a beautiful country, to see the
celebrated colossal Statue of S. Carlo Borromeo, which
was executed, in bronze, by Zonelli, and measures a'n hun-
dred and twelve feet in height, reckoning the pedestal.
This statue is erected on a hill that overlooks Arona, the
birth-place of S. Carlo, who is represented as giving his
benediction, with one hand, to the Mariners of the Lake,
and holding a 'book with the other. This is one of the
largest statues now existing in Italy; and so enormous are
its‘dimensions that the head alone will contain four persons
seated round a table; and one person may stand in the
nose.

At Sesto we rejoined our carriages; which went by land
to Belgirata * and Arona, and then crossed the Ticino, in
a pant-volant, at the entrance of the ﬁrst-named town. The
road between Baveno and Sesto exhibits another ﬁne work
'of the Simplon, walls of an immense height, which prevent
the waters of the Lake from overﬂowing the country.
Sesto-Calende is beautifully situated on the Ticino, at the
commencement of the plains of Lombardy; and persons
who like water—carriage may go from this town, or even
from Baveno, or Fariolo, to lVIilan, in the boats of the
Lago Maggioref: we, however, proceeded by land, through
a delightful country, to Somma; where, close to the great
road, grows a cypress of extraordinary magnitude, and ac-
cording to tradition planted previous to the birth of our

* A good inn here, L’Albergo Barromco.

’l Public boats go from Sesto to Milan every morning, be-
tween the hours of ﬁve and seven, and take Passengers at one
paul a head. Private boats, large enough to contain a carriage,
may be hired at Baveno for twenty-eight, or, at most, thirty
francs, to go down the Lago Maggiorc to Sesto.

 

86 TRAVELS ON THE CON’J'INENT. CHAP. ll.

Saviour. Scipio’s ﬁrst battle with Hannibal took place
near Somma. Hence to Gallarate we passed over heaths
adorned by ﬁne woods interspersed with beautiful broom;
and between Gallarate and Castellanza part of the country
is of the same description, except that it exhibits pretty
paths cut through underwood of chesnut and oak. On ap-
proaching R0 we drove between corn-ﬁelds, meadows,
hamlets, and villas, to the Church of ,Nostra Signora de’
Miracoli ,- built after the designs of Tibaldi, and adorned
with good paintings by Procaccino, 8:0. The inside of this
church does honour to its architect; and the facade erected
by Pollach is adorned With two bassi-rz'lz'cvz'; one of which
represents the salutation, and the other the presentation in
the Temple. The country between R0 and Milan is ﬂat,
well cultivated, and beautifully adorned by acacia and tulip-
trees, which ﬂourish here with peculiar luxuriance. But the
greatest ornament of the approach to Milan, the triumphal
Arch intended as a termination to the avenue of the Sim-
plon on one side, and as an ornament to the Forum on the
other, is, alas, unﬁnished ! The commencement of this
magniﬁcent work, however, particularly merits attention.
Four gigantic columns, each hewn out of a single block of
marble, were designed to support its two facades, the bases
of which alone are completed ; one side being adorned with
beautiful ﬁgures in basso—rilz'cvo, representing France, Clio,
Calliope, and Italy; and the other side embellished with
bassi-rz'lz'evi almost equally beautiful, and representing Her-
cules, Mars, Minerva, and Apollo: while in surrounding
out-houses are deposited still ﬁner bassi—rz'lz'evi, relative to
the achievements of Napoleon; together with capitals of
pillars and other architectural decorations highly creditable
to the talents of Cagnola, under whose orders this work
was begun.

CHAP. u. ITALY. 87

Milan, in Italian Milano, and anciently denominated
Mediolanum, (supposed to have been founded by the Gauls
590 years before the Christian era) is seated on a peculiarly
fertile spot, between the rivers Adda and Ticino, and inter-
sected by three‘ navigable canals, one of which extends to
Pavia. Milan contains about 130,000 inhabitants; and
may be called a handsome town; though its buildings, in
point of architecture, are, generally speaking, faulty: its
climate, during winter, is very cold; during summer ex-
tremely hot; and frequently damp and unwholesome during
autumn. and spring *. Its Duomo, or Cathedral, the largest
church in Italy, S. Peter’s excepted, is a beautiful Gothic
ediﬁce of white marble, begun in the year 1386: but the
exterior part was left unﬁnished till the reign of Napoleon;
who ordered it to be completed, after the designs of Amati:
and though ‘much had been accomplished, much still re-
mained undone, when the Emperor of Austria resumed the
government of the Milanese-z it is said, however, that Na-
poleon’s plan will still be followed. This cathedral, in
length 449 Paris feet, in breadth 275, and in height 238, to
the top of the cupola, is divided into ﬁve parts by an hun—
dred and sixty immense columns of marble, and paved with
the same material. The interior ornament of the principal
door is supported by two columns of granite, called Mi-
gliaruolo, and found in the beds of the neighbouring lakes
and torrents. The interior and exterior distribution of the
choir were executed under the orders of Pellegrini; the
Sarcophagus of Gian-Giacomo de’ Medici was designed
by Buonaroti; and the bronze ornaments were made by
Leoni. The Statue of S. Bartholomew is by Agrati; the
Cupola, situated in the centre of the choir, is by Brunei-
lesco; and, immediately underneath, in a subterranean

* The irrigation of the rice-ﬁelds, with which the Milanese
abounds, contributes to render the air, at times, insalubrious.

88 TRAVELS ON THE CON'riNEx'r. CHAR“.

Chapel, most sumptuously decorated, rest the mortal re-
mains of S. Carlo Borromeo, inclosed by a crystal sar-
cophagus adorned with silver gilt: his countenance, part of
the nose excepted, is well preserved; his robes, crosier, and
mitre, are superb; and .silver bassi-rilz'evz', executed by
Rubini, after the designs of Cerano, and representing the
great features of the exemplary life of S.“ Carlo Borromeo,
embellish the walls of this chapel. A staircase, consisting
of 468 steps, leads to the top of the cathedral; and it is im-
possible to form a just idea of the exterior decorations of this
immense and venerable marble pile, without ascending to
its roofs; where alone the fret-work, carving, and sculp-
ture, can be viewed to advantage. The three ﬁnished sides
of the exterior walls are covered with bassi—rilievi, statues,
and groups of ﬁgures; several of them well executed;
while every spire, or needle, is crowned with a statue,
rather larger than life; and among these, there appears to
be more than one likeness of Napoleon *.

The Church of S. Alessandro possesses considerable merit
with respect to architecture; together with good frescos in
its cupola; and its high altar and Ciborio f are remarkably
handsome.

* Cathedrals, in Italy, are always open from sun-rise till
sun-set; other churches are usually opened at six or seven in
the morning; shut at twelve; opened again at three in the
afternoon, and shut at ﬁve or six. From the middle of Lent
till Easter the ﬁnest altar-pieces are covered. The common
fee, to the Sacristan of a church, is from one to two pauls.
Palaces are usually shown from nine or ten in the morning till
twelve; and from three till ﬁve in the afternoon. The common
fee, at a palace, is from three to ﬁve pauls, according to the size
of the party.

1‘ The tabernacle wherein the llost is kept.

CH AP. 1 l. ITALY. 89

The Church q“ S. Lorenzo, an octagon ediﬁce, (adjoining
to which is a building that resembles an ancient Bath) is
embellished by handsome columns whose bases appear to
have been originally the capitals of pillars belonging, as
tradition reports, to a Temple of Hercules, which once
stood near this spot: and, before the church of S. Lorenzo,
is the only specimen of ancient Roman architecture now re-
maining at Milan; namely, a Portico supported by sixteen
beautiful ﬂuted columns of the Corinthian order, with an
entablature, which bears an inscription in honour of the
Emperor, Verus.

The Refectory of the suppressed Convent of S. Maria
delle Grazie is embellished with Leonardo da Vinci’s ce-
lebrated fresco of the last supper: and although this mas-
terpiece has suffered cruelly from time and ill treatment,
it is still in sufﬁciently good preservation to be highly in-
teresting *1

The College qurera, now the Gymnasium, or Palace of
Arts and Sciences, contains a ﬁne collection of pictures;
among which are the following. First room. (Frescos)
three boys playing on musical instruments, by Gaudenzio
Ferrario. Second room. The Magdalene and our Saviour,
by Ludovico Caracci—two pictures of Saints, by Procac—
cino—our SaviOur bearing his cross, by Daniello Crespi—
S. Sebastiano, by M. A. Caravaggio—our Saviour and the
Woman of Samaria, by Annibale Caracci—Abraham dis-
missing Hagar, by Guercino ! ! l—The Madonna, our
Saviour, God the Father, &c.; by Albano—head of our

* The late Viceroy of Italy had a very ﬁne copy taken of this
fresco; and did every thing in his power to preserve the ori-
ginal.

71.1.»,— a.“

90 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. anp. n.

Saviour, by Guercino l—The Madonna, our Saviour, S.
John, and S. Petronio, (the Patron of Bologna) by ditto—-
a dance of winged Loves, by Albano ! l—the last supper, by
Rubens—the Woman detected in adultery, by Agostino
Caracci—the ascension of the Madonna, by Paris Bordone
—the ascension of our Saviour, by Giulio Romano—the
nativity, by ditto—the baptism of our Saviour, by Paris
Bordone—Our Saviour dead, by Salmeggia—S. Peter and
S. Paul, by Guido! First division of the second room.
Saints adoring the cross, by Tintoretto—the Bladonna, our
Saviour, and Saints, by Savoldi—the “roman detected in
adultery, by Palma Vecchio—Our Saviour supping with
the Pharisee, by Paolo Veronese—S. Francesco, by Palma
il Giovane—the marriage in Cana of Galilee, by Paolo
Veronese—Our Saviour dead, by Tintoretto—the lVIa—
donna, our Saviour, and Saints, by Giulio Romano i—Our
Saviour dead, by Benvenuto Garofalo! Second division.
Several curious old pictures. 172i”! division. Portrait of
Solamon—ditto of Ann. Caracci—ditto of Procaccino—
the Madonna and Saints, by Pompeo Battoni—S. Girolamo,
by Subleyras—-Souls delivered from Purgatory, by Salvator
Rosa !—a large landscape, by N. Poussin— ditto by Salvator
Rosa—the Madonna, our Saviour, and Saints, by Luca
Giordano. T/zird room. The Madonna, our Saviour, and
S. Francesco, by Vandyck—the head of a Monk, by Velas-
quez!!! Fourth room. The'Madonna, our Saviour, 8m.
in the ﬁrst manner of Correggio—the marriage of the hia-
donna, in the ﬁrst manner of Raphael—our Saviour dead,
by Giovanni Bellino, and a sketch, by Andrea del Sarto.

' The Gymnasium contains casts of all the finest Statues of
antiquity; a particularly well furnished Observatory, a good
Library, and a botanic Garden.

CHAP. II. ITALY. 91

The Ambrosian Lihrmy, founded by Cardinal Federigo
Borromeo, contains above thirty-ﬁve thousand printed vo-
lumes, together with between fourteen and ﬁfteen thousand
precious manuscripts; among which are those of Leonardo
da Vinci, accompanied by his drawings—a Virgil, with an-
notations by Petrarca, in his own hand-writing—a Pliny—
a Plato and Cicero of the second century—and a Josephus
written on papyrus, and written on both sides of each leaf.
This library likewise contains the following paintings: A
Holy F amily, by Titian—sketches, by Pietro da Cortona—
the original sketch of the School of Athens, by Raphael;
well preserved, and most valuable I !—a ﬁne copy of Leo-
nardo da Vinci’s painting of the last supper—a sketch, by
Raphael, of part of the battle of Constantine !——a Holy
Family, by Bernardino Luini, the Contemporary and Rival
of Leonardo da V inci l—the head of our Saviour, by Luini
our Saviour dead, by Titian—sketches of the last judgment,
by Buonaroti—sketches, by Polidoro da Caravaggio, and
other great masters—a miniature of the celestial regions, by
Albano !! and a fresco, by Luini, representing our Saviour
crowned with thorns.

The Great Hospital and the Lazzaretto merit notice; the
latter is just beyond the eastern gate of the city.

The Marengo-Gate, a simple and elegant specimen of
Ionic architecture, bears the following inscription: “ Pacz'
.Populorum Sospz'ta’.”

The Amphitheatre situated near the Forum, is a mag-
niﬁcent building, erected after the designs of Canonica, and
large enough to contain 36,000 spectators. The pulvz'nare,

and the principal entrance of this ediﬁce, especially deserve
attention.

92 TRAVELS on THE CONTINENT. CHAP. n.

The Theatre of La Scala, built after the designs of Pier-
marini, is deemed, with respect to architecture, the most
beautiful opera—house in Europe; and, except the great
theatre at Parma, and that of S. Carlo at Naples, it is the
most spacious. The stage decorations also are particularly
splendid and classical; and the orchestra is, generally
speaking, the best in Italy: but the circumstance most cre-
ditable to this, and indeed to every other theatre on the
Continent, is that perfect decorum which enables ladies
(though unattended), to go, return, and even walk from
box to box, without the slightest chance of receiving an
insult.

Milan contains other Theatres; namely, the Canobz’ana
shaped like La Scala, but not so large; the Tcatro Re; and
the Carcano, built by Canonica.

The principal Promenades are, the Ramparts, the Corso,
and the Esplanade between the town and the Forum *.

The environs of Milan boast a considerable number 0
handsome Villas; among which is that presented by the
Citizens to Napoleon.

Monza, about three leagues north of Milan, likewise con-
tains a superb Royal Residence; built after the designs 0
Piermarini; and another, called Pelucca, celebrated for its
stud of horses. At Monza Charlemagne was crowned
King of Lombardy: and in the Cathedral here, is the an-
cient crown of the Lombard Kings, commonly called “ The

* Among the principal hotels are, the Albergo della Gran-
Bretagna; the Grandc Albcrgo Imperiale; the Croce di Illalta ,-
1 (re Re,- and Il Puzzo.

can». II. ITALY. 93'

iron crown,” because its inside is lined with some of that
metal, said to be composed of the nails with which our
Sa'viour was fastened to the cross. The outside of this
diade’m is gold, studded with precious stones *2

On quitting Milan, we took the Bologna-road; traversing
a luxuriant country, which abounds with rice-ﬁelds, and
every other kind of grain, vineyards, and streamlets, for the
pm‘p'oses of irrigation; and exhibiting not a single inch of
fallow land; this last, however, is a thing rarely seen in
Italy, where the husbandman no sooner reaps one crop
than another succeeds, to the number of four or ﬁve in a
twelve-month. The road is, generally speaking, ﬂat, and
bordered with towns and villages, so far as Lodi, which
stands on an eminence, near the Adda, is well built, and
contains about 12,000 inhabitants. The most remarkable
of its churches, L’Incoronata, was erected according to the
design of Bramante, and adorned with frescos and paintings
in oil by Callisto, the Pupil of Titian: but what chieﬂy
renders this town interesting is that, at the bridge of Lodi,
Napoleon gained one of his most memorable victories f.
The little province, of which Lodi is the capital, usually
gives food to thirty thousand cows; and its cheese, im-
properly called Parmesan, is most excellent. Hence we
proceeded to a troublesome Austrian custom-house, near
the Po; and then crossed that ﬁne river, on a pant-volant,
to Piacenza. This town, seated in a rich and pleasant
country, contains several objects of interest; namely, the

* From Milan it is easy to make an excursion to Pavia, either
by land or water: the latter town being only seven leagues
distant from the former.

T From Lodi there is a road, by Cremona and Mantua, to
Bologna: and to the east of Lodi is the road through Brescia
and Verona to Venice.

 

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94' TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARII.

Cathedral and the Church of La Madonna della Campagna ,-
both adorned with good paintings: the cupola of the former
being by Guercino; the angles by Francesconi; and the
ceiling above the great altar, and frescos behind it, by
Ludovico Caracci and Procaccino. This church is likewise
adorned with a picture of S. Corrado by Lanfranco; and
another, of S. Francois Xavier, by Fiamingo; the Angels,
in fresco, which surround the latter, being likewise by
Fiamingo; and the ascension, on the ceiling of one of the
Chapels, by the same master. The C/zurc/z aft/1e szonz'ci
regolari di S. Agostz'no, designed by Vignola; the Town-
Hall, by the same architect; and two equestrian Statues,
the one representing Ranucolo, and the other Alessandro
Farnese, by Francesco Moca, also merit notice. Piacenza,
though large, is built entirely of brick, not even its palaces
excepted: it contains a pretty Theatre and good Hotels *.
Here commences the ancient Vz'a-Flamz'm'a, constructed
during the consulate of Lepidus and F laminius, and leading
to the Via-Emilia in Romagna: and not far hence ﬂows
that memorable torrent, the Trebia, whose immense bed
Travellers drive through, on their way to S. Giovanni in
the road to Tortona.

At the distance of half a mile from Piacenza, we crossed
a bridge thrown over the P0; having, to our right, the lofty
mountains of the Apennine, with villages and farms at their
base; and to our left a plain, watered by the just-named
river. Midway t0 Firenzuola we traversed, on a stone-
bridge, a torrent called the Nura; and thence drove,
through the bed of the Larda, always dry in summer, and
provided with a narrow stone-bridge, over which carriages
pass when the stream is swoln by winter-rain. \Ve then

* The Albergo (Idle tre Gannsce, and S. Alarm.

CRAP. n. ITALY. 95

proceeded through Firenzuola, a small town, where, however,
there are two inns *, to Borgo—San-Donino, seated on the
Stirone; and not far distant from what are supposed to be
the ruins of the ancient Julia C/u‘z'sopolis. The Cathedral
at S. Donino merits notice f. A few miles from-this town
we passed, on a pont-volant, the Taro, a dangerous torrent
after heavy rains; and near which stands Castel-Guelfo,
celebrated for having given its name to the Guelfs, whose
strife with the Gibellines cost Italy much blood. I

After traversing a rich and beautiful valley adorned with
villages and vineyards, we arrived at Parma, a handsome
town, which derives its appellation from the river that runs
through it. The walls of Parma are between three and
four miles round, and the inhabitants are said to amount
to 35,000; but, nevertheless, this city looks deserted, and
melancholy.

The Cathedral, built, like all the other public ediﬁces, of
brick, is a spacious Gothic structure, containing a high-
altar richly decorated with precious marbles, and a cupola
ﬁnely painted by Correggio, but cruelly injured. Over the
organ are the families of Correggio and. Parmigianino,
painted by themselves, and tolerably well preserved; and
on the sides of the principal door are portraits of those great
artists, likewise painted by themselves. This church also
contains a monument to the memory of Petrarca.

TheChurclz of S. Giovanni Evangelism, built with majestic
simplicity, is embellished with frescos by Correggio and

* The Albergo dellc tre Ganasce, and La Croce bianca.
1‘ S. Donino contains two inns, La Croce bianca and The
t/llbergo dc] Angelo.

‘—.

l
E

 

35'

96 TRAVELS ON THE 'CONTINENT. CHAP. II.

Parmigianino ; the former of whom has represented, in the

cupola, our Saviour ascending to Heaven and the Apostles
witnessing his ascension !

The Stoccata, built, after the design of Bramante, does
honour to the taste of that distinguished architect, and is
adorned with ﬁne paintings; namely, Moses breaking the
tables of the law, by Parmigianino; three Sibyls, by ditto;
another Sibyl, by Mazzuolo; and frescos in the cupola by
Correggio.

The szvem‘o delle ﬂfonache di S. Paolo contains a room
adorned with frescos by Correggio; and deemed the most
beautiful work of its kind he ever executed: the subject
seems to be Diana triumphant, accompanied by Genii.

The royal Academy contains a ﬁne collection of pictures;
among which are, the adoration of the Magi, by Agostino
Caracci—the ascension, by Raphael—the marriage of the
Madonna, by Procaccino—the deposition from the cross, by
Schidone—the martyrdom of two Saints, by Correggio—-
the repose in Egypt, by ditto—the descent from the cross,
by Correggio—‘the Holy Family, by Parmigianino—a
fresco, representing the Madonna and our Saviour, by C or-
reggio ! ! l—a fresco, representing the Madonna crowned, by
Annibale Caracci ! !—and S. Girolamo, by Correggio.

The Library belonging to the Academy is adorned with
a fresco by Correggio, representing the Madonna crowned;
and another room contains the death of the hiadonna, by
Ludovico Caracci.

The great Theatre, designed by Vignola, and built of
wood, is the most spacious, and, in point of architecture,

Q
CRAP. n. ITALY. 97

the most perfect ediﬁce of its kind in Italy: it contains, with
ease, ﬁve thousand spectators; (some authors say, nine
thousand) all of whom can see every thing which passes on
the stage, and hear every syllable spoken by the actors, even
though uttered in'a whisper. This ﬁne specimen of archi-
tecture, however, is now so entirely out of repair, that'a
few years may probably reduce it to a heap of ruins.

Adjoining to the great Theatre is another, built after the
design of Bernini, and, comparatively speaking, small; as it
does not hold more than two thousand spectators.

Parma contains good Hotels *.

Just beyond one of the city gates is the Palazzo- Giardino,
embellished with ﬁne frescos by Agostino Caracci: nine
miles distant, on the way to Casal-lVIaggiore, is Calm-720, a
large palace, adorned with two statues; one representing
Hercules, the other Bacchus; and both found in the Orto
Farnese, at Rome: and thirteen leagues distant, at the base
of the Apennine, are the ruins of Vellez'a, a Roman muni-
cipal city, which was buried by the sudden fall of a moun-
tain supposed to have been undermined by a subterraneous
water-course. This melancholy event took place in the
fourth century; and from the number of human bones found
at Velleia, when it was excavated in 1760, there seems
reason to fear the inhabitants had no time to escape 1‘.

From Parlna we traversed a rich and beautiful country
to S. Hilario; passing, at the latter place, the Lenza on a

"E L’dlbergo del Gum/Jere; La Pasta; and Il Pavone. I
T V elleia is much nearer to Fiorenzola than to Parma.
H

a;

98 TRAVELS ON THE COii'PINEN’l'. CHAP. IL

magniﬁcent bridge; and then crossing the Crostolo, on an-
other bridge, previous to our arrival at Reggio. This town,
anciently Regina; Lapia'i, and seated on the Crostolo, is
said to contain nearly 16,000 inhabitants. The Cathedral
here merits notice; as one of its chapels contains good pic-
tures: but what particularly renders this spot interesting, is
its having given birth to that greatest of Italian Poets,
Ariosto: indeed, the soil seems to have been proliﬁc of
genius, for between Reggio and lVIodena we passed within
a league of Correggio, the birth-place of the great painter
who bears its name. Reggio contains three Hotels *.

Driving through Rubiera, where Travellers who arrive
after dark ﬁnd the gates shut, and are compelled to wait till
permission be obtained to have them opened, we traversed
a ﬁne bridge thrown over the Secchia, and then passing near
a splendid Column erected in honour of Napoleon, found
ourselves at hiodena, anciently Mutina ,- a small but hand-
some city, situated amidst luxuriant pasturages; and, of late
years, much improved. The Strada—maestra is a particu-
larly ﬁne street; and the Ramparts are remarkably pretty.
The Cathedral contains a picture of the presentation, by
Guido; and the Campanile, built of marble, is one of the
loftiest towers in Italy. The Churches of S. Vilzcmzo and
S. Agostz'no merit notice; as does the public Library, which
is well stored with valuable manuscripts and rare editions of
printed works. The university has long been celebrated;
and the Palazzo Ducale contains a magniﬁcent hall, painted
by Francesconi; together with a small but choice collection
of pictures; among which are, the adoration of the hIagi,
by Procaccino—the cruciﬁxion, by Andrea Mantegna—the

* La Pasta—ll Giglio—and l’Albergo di San-Giovanni.

CHAP. n'. ITALY. 99

Madonna, our Saviour, and several other ﬁgures, by Ga-
rofalo l—the Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto l—four
landscapes, by Salvator Rosa—ﬁve paintings, by Annibale
Caracci—our Saviour on the cross, by Guido—the martyr-
dom of S. Peter, by Guercinol—S. Rocco, by Guido !—
Roman charity, by Sacchi !——a small painting of our Sa-
viour on the cross, and the Madonna standing near, by
Guido l—and the head of the lVIadonna, by Carlo Dolcil
hiodena contains public Baths, a Theatre, a public Walk,
and several private Collections of pictures, most of which
are said to be upon sale. It likewise still contains the
Sew/Zia, or Bucket, immortalized by Tassoni; but this ob-
ject, so interesting to Lovers of poetry, is now removed from
the cathedral, where it used to be exhibited, and withheld
from public view, because placed under the care of the
hiunicipality.

Modena afforded an asylum to Brutus after the assassina-
tion of Caesar; and is also famous for having given birth to
l\Iuratori, Vignola, and Tassoni, the Author of the Secc/zz'a
Rapz'ta *.

After bidding adieu to this city, we crossed the Panora,
on a ﬁne bridge newly constructed; thence proceeding to
Castel—Franco ; where we observed the lotus growing luxu-
riantly in the ditch that encompasses the Fort: and this
being the ﬁrst town of the Papal dominions, we were obliged
to fee the Custom-house Ofﬁcers, that our baggage might
escape examination. VVe then crossed the Reno, on another
ﬁne bridge, and entered Bologna, by the ancient Roman
road, through a rich and beautiful Alpine country.

-* The grand: Albergo Beale, at Modena, is an excellent hotel.
H 2

w:
P,

100 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. IL

» Bologna, seated on the Reno, at the base of the Apennine,

is supposed to have derived its name from the Galli-
Bo'l’onienscs, who called it Boiona, which time changed ﬁrst
into Bonanz'a-Felsz'm'a, and at length into Bologna: but, be
this as it may, the city is of high antiquity, well-peopled,
commercial, wealthy, and situated in a salubrious, though
not a warm climate: its walls are from ﬁve to six miles
round; and its population is supposed to amount to 60,000
inhabitants; indeed, some authors rate it much higher. Bo-
logna has twelve gates; the handsomest of which are those of
Modena, Ferrara, and Bonaparte.

The Cailzcdral, erected in 1600, contains the last work of
Ludovico Caracci, namely, a fresco representing the An-
nunciation! it adorns the sanctuary. In the Chapter—room
is a picture of S. Peter and the Madonna bewailing the death
of our Saviour, by the same master; who has likewise
adorned the bottom of the choir with a fresco of our Saviour
giving the keys of Paradise to S. Peter. Below the choir

is a curious Crypt.

T he C/mrc/z (3f S. Petrom'o, built in 432, and repaired in
1390, is large; and, on account of its antiquity, curious.
Charles V, was crowned here, by Clement VII; and this
ediﬁce contains the celebrated meridian of Cassini, the gno—
mon of which is eighty-three feet in height.

T/ze Dominican Clzm'c/I contains good paintings; among
which is the Paradise of Guido, one of his ﬁnest compo-
sitions in fresco!

L0 Studio, the Palace of the University, was designed by
Vignola, and contains a Statue of Hercules in bronze
a Museum of Natural History; an anatomical Theatre; :1

CHAP. u. ITALY. 101

Cabinet of Antiquities; and a Library rich in manuscripts
and books of Science. This celebrated University, sup-
posed to have been founded by the Countess Matilda, once

contained six thousand Students, and seventy-two Pro-
fessors.

The Accademia delle belle Arti is adorned with a ﬁne,
though not a numerous collection of pictures; among which
are; the murder of the Innocents, by Guido! ! several other
works by the same great 1blaster—the Nativity, by Ludovico
Caracci—the Transﬁguration, by ditto—S. Cecilia, by
Raphael—two pictures of the martyrdom of Saints, by D0-
menichino—S. Francesco, by Guercino—and S. Girolamo,
by Correggio.

Tile Palazzo-Marescalclli, and the Pulazzo—Ercolano, like-
wise contain good pictures.

The Tower ofAsz'nelli, built in 1119, is three hundred
and twenty—seven feet high, and said to be the loftiest ediﬁce
of its kind in Italy. The neighbouring Tower, built in 1110,
is an hundred and forty feet in height, and from eight to
nine feet out of the perpendicular.

A handsome Fountain, adorned by a colossal statue of
Neptune, called the c/ztf-d’ceuvre of Giovanni di Bologna,
embellishes the Piazza del Gigante; and through this city
runs a Canal, by the aid of which Travellers may go

by water to Ferrara, and thence embark on the Po for
Venice.

The Theatre here is one of the largest in Italy; and the
facades of the palaces, and other buildings, are magniﬁcent;
but the streets appear narrow, from being lined almost uni-

 

102 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAD. 11.

versally with porticos; and this circumstance, combining
with the want of spacious squares, diminishes the beauty of
the town, by giving it a sombre appearance *.

Bologna gave birth to Guido, Domenichino, Albano,
Annibale, Ludovico, and Agostino Caracci, and Benedict
XIV: and among its natural curiosities is the phosphors
cscent stone, found near the city, on Monte-Paderno.

About one mile distant from the walls is tile Campo—szfo,
once the Certosa—Convent: and here lies the celebrated
Singer, Banti, whose vocal powers not long since captivated
Europe. This repository of the Dead is well worth no—
tice ; and its Church contains paintings by Cesi, Guercino,

Guido, SLC.

The Church of tfzc ﬁladomza della Guardia also merits
notice; as it is approached by a Portico, consisting of six
hundred and forty arches, built at the expense'of various
individuals, corporations, and ecclesiastical establishments;
the whole being three miles in length, and extending from
the city to the church, which is magnificently placed, and
somewhat resembles the Superga near Turin.

Persons who enjoy ﬁne scenery and good paintings should
likewise visit S. Mz'c/Ielc in Bosco, once a Convent belonging
to the Olivetans. The Portico of the Church is adorned
by the pencil of Cignani; and one of the Chapels contains
a picture, by Guercino, representing Bernardo Tolomei,
the Founder of the Order, receiving his statutes from the
hands of the Madonna. In the Convent are several ﬁne

' The best Hotels here are, the Grande Albergo Imperiule,
S. Alarm, and I Pcllegrini.

CHAP. II. ITALY. 103

works by Ludovico Caracci; and one picture by Spada.
The situation of this building is delicious.

I will now close my account of Bologna by observing,
that Persons who visit Italy for the purpose of educating
their Children, would do well to reside in this last-named
city, where Blasters of every descriptionmmay be obtained
on moderate terms. ‘

Between hlilan and Bologna the road is excellent, and
does not pass over one high hill: and from Bologna we
crossed the Apennine to Florence by a road equally excel— '
lent, and in great measure newly constructed under the di-
rection of the Cav. Fabbroni.

The time usually employed in accomplishing thisjourney,
either with post-horses, or on 'zvoz'im'z'cr, is from fourteen to
ﬁfteen hours. The ascents and descents are more rapid
than those of the Simplon; though not suﬁiciently so to
render a drag-chain often requisite, even for heavy car-
riages: and the paved gutters, intersected by small wells,
made to receive the streams which descend from the heights
above the road, keep the latter dry, and in good repair.

From Bologna to Pianoro, the ﬁrst post, we found the
country rich and ﬂat; but at Pianoro oxen were added to
our horses, and we began to ascend the Apennine, whose
summits presented us with a magniﬁcent view of the plains
we had recently traversed, the Alps, and the Mediterranean
and Adriatic sea. The wind on this spot is, generally
speaking, strong, and particularly cold. Hence we pro-
ceeded to the next post, Lojano, where Travellers should
not stop; as the inn aﬂ'ords no accommodation. From Lo-

104! TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CRAP. n.

jano to Pietramala, the Frontier Custom-house of Tuscany,
the ascent continues; and the road winds amidst bold
scenery, less sublime than the Alps, but more beautiful.
The Inn at Pietramala, (about mid-way between Bologna
and Florence,) is provided with several clean beds; and
Persons wishing to visit the little Volcano, in this neigh-
bourhood, would, do well to sleep here. The Volcano
is situated 011 a hill, called hlonte di F0, covered with
rocks, and about one mile distant from the inn: but there
being neither a carriage nor a mule—road to the spot, it is
necessary to walk; and less than an hour and a half cannot
be allowed for going and returning. The mouth of this
little Volcano disgorges, unceasingly, clear ﬂames, some-
times spreading ﬁfteen feet in circumference, and always
burning brightest in wet and stormy weather.

From Pietramala we descended the Apennine to Le Blas-
chere, another Inn, provided with good beds; thence pro-
ceeding through a country gradually increasing in richness,
till, at length, Val-d’Arno opened to our view, and exhi-
bited, in its centre, the beautiful City of Florence, seated
amidst ﬁelds teeming with almost every production of the
vegetable world, and surrounded by hills clothed with olives
and vineyards, and studded with an innumerable host of

splendid villas.

Ariosto says of Florence, that, on seeing the hills so full
of palaces, it appears as if the soil produced them. “ And
if thy palaces, (continues be) which are thus dispersed, were
concentrated within one wall, two Romes could not vie with

thee.”

The approach to Florence for several miles displays a

CHAP. II. ITALY. 105

richness of cultivation unrivalled, perhaps, in any country,
(the environs of Luccn excepted :) and the entrance to the
city, this way, through the Portn-San-Gallo, is strikingly

magniﬁcent *.

* All the Gates of Florence are shut when it becomes dark,

except the l’orta-San-Gallo.

 

8&4

' ,p 106

CHAPTER III.

FLORENCE:

Origin, and present appearance ofFlorence—Palazzo- Vecc/zio

—-Loggia—Piazza (lcl Granduca—Fabbrica degli Uﬂzi
—-]lIaglial)ec/z'ﬂﬁa Library—Royal lGallery—Palazzo-
Pitti—Giardiho (1i Boboli—Miseo d’Is‘toria Natnrale—
1)uomo—Campanile—Baptister—Clziesa di San JlIarco
—S. S. Annnnziata—S. JVIaria llImldalena (lei Pani—
Santa Croce—~S. Lorenzo— New Sacristy—Old Sacriszfy~
Cappella cle’ ﬁledici—ﬂIediceo-Lanrenziana Library—-
C/ziesa di Santa Maria Novella—D’Or—San-Mic/zele—I)i
San-Spirito -—Del Carmine — Di S. Trinitd—Di S. Am-
brogio —-Di S. Gaetano ,- &c.—-Reale Accademia delle
belle Arti — Oratorio dello Scalzo —Palazzo—Gerini—
Riccardi—Corsini—Mozzi —Bnonaroti—Stro::i — Ugnc-
cioni— Casa dei Poveri—SpeciaZe (li Boni a,:io—Spe(lale (11'
Santa Illaria Miova—Spedale degl’ Innocenti—Colmnn in
V iaﬁomana—Column near the Ponte S. Trinita‘ —Colzmin
in the Piazza del Duomo—Bronze Wild Boar in tlzc ﬁler-
cato nuovo—Pedestal near tlze Church of S. Lorenzo—
Group ofHerculcs and lVessns—Statue of Ferdinando I.—
Porta S. Gallo — Trinmplzal Arc/t —— Fresco by Giovanni
di San Giovanni -— Ponte S. Trinitd —— T/zeatres—Flo—
rentine Mosaic ll'orl‘, and Sculpture in Alabaster—~Acca—
demia della Crusca — Hotels ——Provisions —— lVater—Cli—
mate —List of Olgjects best wort}; notice, as they lie near
each otlzer.

FLORENCE, in Italian, Firenze, which signifies, in the

Etruscan language, a red lily, (actually the arms of the
city,) has deservedly acquired the appellation of La Bella:
it stands (as I have already mentioned) in a luxuriant,
beautiful, and extensive plain, encircled by the Apennine ;

can. In. FLORENCE. 107

and is said, by some authors, to have been an ancient town
of Etruria, afterward inhabited by the Phoenicians; while
others suppose it to have been founded either by Sylla’s
soldiers, or the people of Fiesole: and one thing seems
certain, namely, that the choicest part of Caesar’s army was
sent to colonize at Florence, (then called Florentz'a,) about
sixty years before the birth of our Saviowt'; and under the
dominion of the Roman Emperors, it became one of the
most considerable cities of Etruria, and was embellished
with a Hippodrome, a Campus Martius, a Capitol, and a
Road, called Via~Cassia. Its walls are six miles in circum—
ference; and contain above 70,000 people; and the river
Arno, (anciently Arnus,) which runs through it, is adorned
with four handsome bridges: its squares are spacious and
numerous; its streets, like those of every large Tuscan city,
clean, and excellently paved with ﬂat stones; and, were the
facades of all its churches ﬁnished, nothing could exceed
the elegance of this Athens of Italy.

So many changes have lately taken place at Florence,
relative to works of art, &c.; that I trust it will not appear
like arrogance in me to give a minute detail of the objects
best worth a Traveller’s attention; especially as there exists,
at this moment, no accurate F lorence-Guide.

T/ze Palazzo— V eccﬁz'o, adorned with a Tower so lofty that
it is deemed a clzgf-d’ceuvre of architecture, was built by Ar-
nolfo, the Disciple of Cimabue: and, before the entrance to
this palace, is a Statue, in marble, of David, supposed to be
in the act of slaying Goliah, by Buonaroti * ; and a group,

* Michelangelo Buonaroti was not only the most eminent
Sculptor of modern days, but likewise the Founder of the French
School of Painting.

42‘;

VA 1..--

108 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. can. in.

likewise, in marble, of Hercules slaying Cacus, by Bandi-
nelli. On the ceiling and walls of the great hall are freseos
of the most celebrated actions of the Florentine Republic
and the House of Medicis, all by Vasari; except four pic-
tures in oil, one representing the coronation of Cosimo I,
by Ligozzi; another the twelve Florentines, at the same
time Ambassadom from different States to Boniface VIII,
by Ligozzi; a third the election of Cosimo I, by Cigoli ; and
a fourth, the institution of the order of S. Stefano, by Pas-
signano. In this hall, likewise, is a group of Victory with a
prisoner at her feet, by Buonaroti! and another group of
Virtue triumphing over Vice, by Giovanni di Bologna!
The exploits of Furius Camillus are painted in tempera, by

Salviati, in the Salla dell’ Udionzo Vecchia.

T be Loggia oft/2e Palazzo Vecclzio was built after the de-
sign of Andrea Arcagua; and is adorned with a group, in
bronze, called Judith and Holofernes, by Donatello—Per-
seus with Medusa’s head, in bronze, by Cellini ! (the basso-
relz'evo on the pedestal which supports this group is much
admired) a group in marble, of a young Roman warrior
carrying off a Sabine Virgin, and her father prostrate at his
feet, with the rape of the Sabines in basso—rclz'cvo on the
pedestal, by Giovanni di Bologna! !—two lions, in marble,
brought from the Villa-hIedici, at Rome—and six antique
Statues of Sabine priestesses.

T he Piazza del Grandma contains a noble Fountain,
erected by Cosimo I, after the design of Ammannati—and
an equestrian statue of Cosimo I, in bronze, by Giovanni
di Bologna! to whom the sea-nymphs and tritons, which
surround the fountain, are likewise attributed.

The Fabbrz'ca degli Uﬁzi, which comprehends the Royal

can. m. FLORENCE. 109

Gallery, was built by Vasari: the exterior part of the ediﬁce
is ornamented with Doric columns, forming two magniﬁcent
porticos, united at one end by an arch, which supports the
apartments occupied by courts of justice: and, over this
arch, is a statue of Cosimo I, by Giovanni di Bologna; to—
gether with recumbent ﬁgures of Equity and Rigour, by
V incenzo Danti.

T/ze Magliabeclziana-Libraiy, rich in manuscripts and
printed books of the ﬁfteenth century, (and where the F 10-
rentine Academy meet,) is under the same roof with the
royal Gallery: the latter is usually open to the public from
nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, festivals ex-

cepted.

Staircase leading to the Royal Gallery. Between the
windows is the statue of Bacchus, in marble; and opposite
to it the statue of a Child! ~

First Vestibule. A statue of Mars, and another of
Silenus, with an infant Bacchus, both in bronze — ten busts
of the Princes of the House of Medicis, among which is
that of the great Lorenzo—four, bassi—rilievi.

Second 1"estz'bule. A horse, in marble; supposed to have
originally belonged to the group of Niobe and her Children! !
Two quadrangular Columns, which appear to represent the
victories by land and sea of the person to whom they were
dedicated: on one of these columns rests a head of Cybele ;
and on the other a ﬁne bust of J upiter—a \Vild Boar! !
said. to be Grecian sculpture— colossal statues of Trajan,
Augustus, and a Barbarian-King—two \lef—dogs—a bust
of Leopoldo. _' u} t

rt; .-

110 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAIE’. fll'r

First Corridor. The ceiling of this immense Gallery is
adorned with arabesques: round the walls, near the ceiling,
are portraits of the most renowned characters of antiquity;
comprehending generals, statesmen, princes, and literati:
and, on the wall to the left, below the portraits, are paint-
ings of the Florentine school. Here likewise is a most
valuable collection of busts of the Roman Emperors, and
many of their relatives, which go round the three corridors.
The ﬁrst corridor contains several curious Sarcophagi; one
of which, in the centre of this apartment, near the entrance—'
door, is particularly admired. On the left side are statues
of a VVrestler, Mercury, and Apollo, all especially worth
notice; as are the statues of Apollo, Urania, and Pan, with
the young Olynthus, 0n the right side; and the two seated
ﬁgures of Roman lMatrons *, and the group of Hercules
killing the Centaur Nessus, at the end.

Second Corridor. On each side near the ceiling, is a con-
tinuation of the portraits of the most renowned characters
of antiquity: here, likewise, are paintings containing the
history of S. Maria Maddalena, together with several pieces
of sculpture, namel Y; Cupid; Bacchus and Ampelos; a Bac-
chante, lVIercury; Leda; Venus coming out of the bath!
1\Iinerva; or Pallas—Az‘l’zcnas; a round altar, supposed to be
the work of Cleomenes; a tripod dedicated to Mars; a Faun !
Ganymede with the eagle; a torso of a Faun ! &c.

Third Corridor. The ceiling of this iinmense Gallery is
adorned with paintings, representing the revival of the arts
and sciences, with other historical subjects; in which are
introduced po’rtraits of all the most eminent characters

* Oniof these isSupposed to represent Agrippina, the Mother
of Nero.

CHAP. m. FLORENCE. 111

among the F lorentines. On each side, near the ceiling, is a
continuation of the portraits of the most renowned charac-
ters of antiquity; and, on the left side, below the portraits,
are paintings of the Neapolitan, and other schools. Here,
likewise, is a. large number of statues; among which are
lVIarsyas— Bacchus, by Buonaroti—S. John, by Donatello
—and a copy of the Laocoon, by Bandinelli—an antique
recumbent Statue, in black marble, supposed to represent
hIorpheus ! !—David, by Donatello—Bacchus, by Sansovino
--Apollo seated—a wounded Soldier—a Discobolus, attri-
buted to hlyron! ! and a Thetis on a sea-horse. This apart-
ment also contains a ﬁne picture of S. Peter healing the lame
man at the gate of the temple, by Cosimo Gamberucci; an-
other of the transﬁguration, by Luca Giordano; and an-
other of the bladonna, our Saviour, and S. John, copied, by
Empoli, from a celebrated fresco, which was painted by
Andrea del Sarto, and is now destroyed. The most striking
Busts in the Corridors are those of Nero, Otho, Titus-Ves-
pasian, and Antoninus Pius. !

Cabinet quodern bronzes. Mercury standing on the wind,
by Giovanni di Bologna! !———Bust of Cosimo di lVIedici, by
Cellini! Bassi—rz'lz'evz' representing S. Francis Xavier, S.
Joseph, and S. Teresa, by Soldani—a recumbent Statue, by
Vecchietta of Siena—an anatomical statue, by Cigoli—a
Child with wings, attributed to Donatello—David, attri-
buted, likewise, to Donatello—a copy of the Farnese bull——
the sacriﬁce of Abraham, by Ghiberti !—a small copy of
the Laocoon !

Cabinet of antique bronzes; enclosed in fourteen .glass-
cases—the ﬁrst of which contains, Apis, Jupiter, Neptune,
Pluto, and aremarkable head of Saturn; Juno, wit _ , ‘ scan
characters on her hip! a Grecian bust of Minerva, 8w.

 

112 TRAVELS on THE CONTINENT. CHAP. In.

Second case. 'Venus with her attributes—a celestial Venus—
a triumphant Venus—an Hermaphrodite l—an Amazon!
Mars armed; 8Lc. — Third case. Hercules, Bacchus, and
Bacchantcs—a Faun playing the double ﬂute—the labours of
Hercules represented by a multitude of small statues—a Ge-
nius giving ambrosia to Bacchus ! Fourth case. Victory, For-
tune, Genii, Egyptian divinities ; among which is a beautiful
Serapis, and Isis, crowned with a disk, holding Horus on
her lap. Fg'ﬂh case. Etruscan divinities; a very ﬁne col—
lection. Sixth case. Portraits of men and women; frag-
ments of statues beautifully executed; and a small skeleton.
Seventh case. Animals of various kinds, which served for
votive offerings; symbols, and military ensigns; a hippogriﬂ',
a chimaera; a bull with a man’s head; a Roman eagle, which
belonged to the twenty-fourth Legion—and an open hand,
called by the Romans Manz'pulus. Eighth case. Sacriﬁcial
instruments, altars and tripods; a curious sistrum; a mural
crown, &c. Ninth case. Candelabra, and lamps. Tenth
case. Helmets, spurs, bits, CVC. for horses; rings, bracelets,
ear-rings, all made of gold; mirrors of white metal; and
needles made of hair. Eleventh case. Ancient inscriptions
graven on bronze—a manuscript, on wax, nearly efﬁlced—
Roman scales and weights; Sic. T myth and thirteenth
cases. Kitchen utensils—a silver disk! on which is repre—
sented Flavius Ardaburius, who was Consul of Rome in 342.
"ourteenth case. Locks, keys, and some monuments of the
primitive Christians; among which is a lamp in the shape
of a boat, with a figure of S. Peter at the stern. JIz'a’dle of
the cabinet. The Head of a Horse! H An Orator, with
Etruscan characters engraved on his robe! ! l — this ﬁne
statue was found near the Lake of Pcrugia—a Chilnaera,
with Etruscan characters engraved on one of the legs ! ! ! it
was fouﬁ near Arezzo—an Etruscan statue of a Genius, or
perhaps a Bacchus, found at Pesaro ! l l A Minerva, in-

CHAP. III. FLORENCE. 113

jured by ﬁre, but very beautiful; on the helmet is a dragon,
the symbol of vigilance and prudence ! ! ! This statue was
found near Arezzo, and one arm has been restored. Behind
the Chimaera is a Torso ! l and, before‘it, a Tripod! sup-
posed to have belonged to a temple of Apollo. This Cabinet
likewise contains four busts, found in the sea, near Leghorn;
they appear to be Grecian sculpture, and one of them
resembles Homer.

Hall of Niobe. At the upper-end of this magniﬁcent
apartment is the celebrated group of Niobe and her youngest
child; supposed to have been done by Scopas; and generally
considered as the “most interesting effort of the Grecian
chisel Italy can boast: it is not, however, perfect; as one of
the mother’s hands, and one of the child’s feet, have been
restored. 'Round the apartment are statues of the other
children of Niobe ; which seem the work of various artists.
The daughter, next to Niobe, on the left, is admirably exe-
cuted; the opposite statue, on the right, has great merit; the
dead son is wonderfully ﬁne; but, considering the fable, it
appears extraordinary that the sculptor should have placed
him on a cushion. The two daughters on each side of
Peedagogus, and the third statue, on the left of the entrance-
door, have great merit. It is extremely to be regretted that
these c/zgfls—d’ceut‘res of art are not disposed in such a man—
ner as to accord with the subject.

The second statue on the left of the entrance-door is a
Psyche, and has nothing to do with the tragedy of Niobe ;
but was introduced merely to adorn the apartment; as like-
wise was the statue of a Youth kneeling, and apparently
wounded. 7

The walls of this room are adorned with the following
I

114 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. 111.

pictures. - A portrait of a Princess, resembling Mary Queen
of Scotland, by Vandyck. A gypsey telling a young woman
her fortune; and the adoration of the Infant Jesus; both by
Gherardo dalle notti !—a Bacchanalian party, by Rubens—
a story from Ariosto, by Guido—a man with a monkey, by
Annibale Caracci—the Madonna, our Saviour, S. John, 860.;
by Fra. Bartolommeo della Portal !—a portrait of Lorenzo
dc’ Medici Duke of Nemours, by Alessandro Allori! The
Dispute in the Temple, by 1V1. A. Caravaggio—Mars armed,
by Guercino.— S. Maria Maddalena, by Carlo Dolci ! ! l—
The Madonna entreating our Saviour to bless the Charita-
ble, called the Madonna dcl Popolo, by Baroccio !—a por—
trait of the Sculptor Francavilla, by Pourbus l—a Madonna,
by Sassoferrato !—a head of S. Peter in tears, by Lanfranco.
—The martyrdom of S. Stephen, by Cigoli! S. Clovis, of
the Cordeliers, by Carlo Dolci! ! Elizabeth, Duchess of
Mantua, by Andrea Mantegna l—the Infant Jesus with
Angels, by Albano—and the lVIadonna, our Saviour, &c.;
supposed to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci, and
coloured by his scholar, Bernardo Luini.

Cabinet of Greek and Latin Inscriptions, Egyptian Illa-
numcnts, cS'c. Here are two Egyptian divinities in basalt——
sepulchral Monuments—Brutus, by Buonaroti, only just.
commenced; and abovedt the ﬁrst work of that artist, (the
head of a Satyr) executed when he was only ﬁfteen, and the
cause of his introduction to the Platonic Academy. Busts
of Euripides-Demosthenes —-—Aratus—Pythagoras—— Sapho
—Alcibiades — Sophocles—A ristophanes ——Plat0—— Homer
-—Seneca — Ovid —Solon—Socrates—Anaereon— Hippo-
crates, &c. The cinerary urn of Popillia C. C. L. Januaria,
and the altar dedicated to Libero Patri, CVC; merit notice.

,‘abinet containing par/rails of Painters, cliff/{1; done {41/

CHAP. m. FLORENCE. 115

themselves. In the centre of this apartment is the celebrated
Vase of the Villa Medicis, adorned with bassi-rilievi repre-
senting the sacriﬁce of Iphigenia! ! The ceiling is painted
by Pietro Dandini: round the walls are portraits of Raphael:
Leonardo da Vinci, Buonaroti, Titian, the Caracci family,
Domenichino, Albano, Guercino, Guido, Vandyck, Velas-
quez, Rembrant, Charles Le Brun, Vander—Werf, 8:0. 8:0.
The apartment which communicates with this, likewise con-
tains portraits of Painters.——The ceiling is painted by Bim-
bacci; and in the centre of the room is a magniﬁcent table
of Florentine mosaic work *. Round the walls are por-
traits of Mengs, Batoni, Reynolds, Angelica Kaufman, and
Madame Lebrun: and here, also, is a marble bust of
Mrs. Damer, done by herself. ~

Cabinet containing pictures oftlie Venetian School. Por-
trait of a man with his hand on a skull, by Titian—
portrait of Sansovino, by ditto—portrait of an old man, by
Morone—our Saviour dead, by Giovanni Bellino—a ﬁgure
in a Spanish dress, by lVIorone—the Madonna, our Saviour,
S. John, &c. by Titian—Venus with her attendants, and
Adonis dead, by Bonvicino—portraits of Francesco, Duke
of Urbino, and his Duchess, by Titian ! !_four heads, by
Paolo Veronese, Paris Bordone, Tiberio Tinelli, and
Campagnola—two dogs, by Bassano—portrait of Giovanni
de Medicis, the father of Cosimo I, by Titian ! l—the
marriage at Cana in Galilee, by Tintoretto—portrait of a
man in black with red hair, by Bordone—the Madonna,
our Saviour, and S. Catherine, who is offering him a pome-

* Florentine Mosaic Work, called Opera di Commesso, con-
sists of sparks of gems, and minute pieces of the ﬁnest marble,
so placed as to imitate ﬂowers, insects, and paintings of every

description.
1 2

116 TRAVELS ON THE con'rmnx'r. CIIAP. m.

granate, by T itian!! and the portrait of a woman with
ﬂowers, commonly called The Flora ! by the same master-—
the Cruciﬁxion, by Paolo Veronese—portrait of Sanso-
vino in old age, by Tintoretto—portrait of a Knight of
Malta, by Giorgione—portrait of a Geometrician, by
Palma Vccchio.

Cabinet of Gems, cS-c. This apartment is ornamented
with ﬁne columns of oriental alabaster, and verde antique;
and contains a most valuable collection of medals, gems,
SLc. together with a table of Florentine mosaic work,
executed when the manufacture was in its infancy, and
representing the ancient port of Leghorn.

Cabinet containing pictures of the French School. The
ceilings of this apartment, and those that communicate
with it, were painted by the Poccetti—school. Pictures on
the walls—Theseus raising the enormous stone, under
which his father hid the sword he was to take to Athens !
by N. Poussin—Venus and Adonis, by the same master.

Cabinet containing pictures of the Flemish School. Bust
of a man wrapped up in fur, with a cap on his head, by
Dennerl—a landscape, by Paul Brill——ditto, by Claude
Lorrain.—The inside of a church, by Peter Neff and the-
inside of a prison, where the death of Seneca is repre-

sented, likewise by Peter Neﬂ‘.

 

Cabinet containing pictures of the Dutch. School. A
school-master teaching a child to read, by Gerard Dow——
nine pictures by Francis Mieris, namely, a Charlatan
exhibiting his tricks an old Lover and his Mistress—a.
Man seated at table, with a bottle of beer; and, near him,

a woman and a man asleep—the portrait of the Son of

 

can. 111. FLORENCE. 1 17

Mieris—his own portrait—ditto, in another attitude—a
Woman sleeping, and two other ﬁgures—the Painter’s
family—and a Peasant cutting bread, while his wife drinks
been—The judgment of Solomon, by Vander—Werf—and
our Saviour in the manger! by the same artist.

Cabinet containing pictures of the Italian School. The
head of Medusa, by M. A. Caravaggio ! !—the bust of the
Madonna pressing our Saviour to her bosom, by Carlo
Cignani ! !—-the rape of Europa, by Albano—the massacre
of the Innocents, by Dosso Dossi—the Madonna, our
Saviour, and S. John, with Joseph in the back-ground, by
Schidone!—the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. John, by
Massari—the same subject, by Guido—the breaking of
bread, by Palma Vecchio—a Landscape, by Salvator

Rosa! and an Annunciation, by Garofalo.

Cabinet, called the Tribune. This elegant apartment,
built after the design of Buontalenti, and paved with pre-
cious marbles, contains admirable specimens of sculpture
and painting. Here is the Venus de’ Medici, found in
Adrian’s Villa, and supposed to have been done by
Praxiteles! ! ! ! !——the Apollo (called Apollino)! ! ! attributed
to the same great artist—the dancing Faun! ! !! evidently
a production of the best age of ancient sculpture, and
excellently restored by Buonaroti—the Arrotino ! !‘! found
at Rome, and supposed to represent the Scythian, when
commanded to ﬂay Marsyas—and the group of the Lotta-
tm'i, or wrestlers!!! found with the Niobe. The Venus
de’ Medici is about ﬁve English feet in height; the arms
are modern; indeed the statue, when ﬁrst discovered, was
broken in thirteen places. Pliny mentions six famous
Venuses; one, by Phidias, which stood under the Portico
of Octavia, at Rome; another, finished by Phidias, but

118 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. m.

begun by his pupil; and this stood just without the town
of Athens; another, at Rome, in the Temple of Brutus-
Callaicus; and a fourth, by an unknown artist, which was
placed in the Temple of Peace: another, made by Praxi-
teles, and veiled, was purchased by the people of Cos; and
the sixth, an undraped ﬁgure, was sent to Gnidus: but this
latter, the more excellent work of the two, is supposed to
have been destroyed at Constantinople; as was the Olym—
pian Jupiter of Phidias, the Juno of Samos, &c. It seems,
therefore, impossible to discover, from the author just
quoted, whether the modest and beautiful Venus de’ Medici
be, or be not, the child of Praxiteles. Among the pictures
of the Tribune are, the Epiphany, by Albert Durer—Endy-
mion sleeping, by Guercino—a Sibyl, by the same magic
pencil—a Holy Family, by Buonaroti—Venus, with a
Love behind her, by Titian—another Venus, with ﬂowers
in her right hand, and at her feet a dog ! ! also by Titian—
a portrait of the prelate, Beccadelli, by the same master—a
Holy Family, with the Magdalene, and the Prophet
Isaiah, by Parmigiano—three pictures, namely, the Circum-
cision, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Resurrection, by
Mantegna—the Madonna, our Saviour, S. Francesco, and
S. John the Evangelist, by Andrea del Sarto ll—the
Madonna in contemplation, by Guido ! l—the massacre of
the Innocents, by Daniello da Volterra !! l—the portrait of
Cardinal Aguechia, by Domenichino !—the Holy Family
and S. Catherine, by Paolo Veronese—a Bacehante and a
Satyr, by Annibale Caracci ! l—S. Jerome, by Spagnoletto
—the Madonna, our Saviour, S. John, and S. Sebastiano,
the two former seated, the two latter standing, by Pietro
l’erugino !—Six pictures by Raphael, namely, a portrait of
DIaddaleua Doni, a Florentine lady, in his ﬁrst style—two
Holy Families, in an improved style, though still partaking
of the Pcrugino-school—S. John in the wilderness ! ! l! a

CHAP. m. FLORENCE. 119

portrait of Pope Giulio 11!! and another of La Ferna-
rina II! who was celebrated for her attachment to Raphael,
all three painted in his last and best style—a portrait, by
Vandyck, supposed to represent Jean de Monfort—and
another representing Charles V, on horseback—a Holy
Family, by Schidone— Job and Isaiah, by Fra Bartolommeo
della Porta l—the ﬂight into Egypt, by Correggio l—the
Virgin adoring the infant Jesus, by ditto l—the decapita-
tion of S. John, by ditto—Herodias and her servant
receiving the head of S. John, by Leonardo da Vincil—a
Madonna and Child, by Giulio Romano—Hercules be-

tween Vice and Virtue, by Rubens.

Cabinet containing pictures of the Tuscan School. Jesus
sleeping on his cross, by Cristofano Allori—the head of
Medusa, with the hair changed into serpents, by Leonardo
da Vinci ! l—our Saviour dead in the arms of the Madonna,
by Angelo Allori—our Saviour, the Apostles, the Maries,
Sic. by Carlo Dolci l—an Angel playing on a guitar, by
Rosso l—a small portrait of Dante—ditto of Petrarca—
portrait of Andrea del Sarto, by himself—S. Simon, by
Carlo Dolci—S. Peter, by ditto—a Child holding a bird,
by A. Allori—a sketch, by Leonardo da Vinci !

Second Cabinet of the Tuscan School. The Visitation of ‘
Elizabeth, by Mariotto Albertinclli l—a miracle performed
by S. Zenobia, Bishop of Florence, by Ridolpho Ghirlan—
dajo l—the body of the Saint carried to the cathedral, by
ditto !——the Madonna, our Saviour, S. Zenobia, and other
saints, by Domenico Ghirlandajo.

Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite. A colossal bust of
Juno !--a colossal head of Neptune—an Hermaphrodite of
Greek sculpture! and a Satyr of modern sculpture—a

120 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. In.

group of two Children playing—a bust of Cicero l—a bust
of Marcus Antonius, very rare—Ganymede, restored by
Cellini—a statue called Gem'o della Marie—a group of
Cupid and Psyche, found on the Mons-Celius, at Rome !—a
bust of Antinous—an infant Hercules—a colossal bust of
J upiter—a bust of Berenice the wife of Titus, and queen of
part of Judea !—a bust of Alexander !—a sleeping Love !—
a recumbent statue of an Hermaphrodite ! l !

T/ze Palazzo—Pz'ttz', where the Grand Duke of Tuscany
usually resides, was begun after the design of Filippo di
Ser Brunellesco, the most celebrated architect of the ﬁf-
teenth century; and ﬁnished by Ammannati. In the qua-
drangle is the basso-rz'lz'evo of a Mule, who constantly drew
a sledge which contained the materials employed in the
building; and over this basso—rilz'cvo is a statue of Hercules,
attributed to Lysippus ! l ! On the ground-ﬂoor is a Chapel
which contains a beautiful altar of Florentine work, with
the last supper, executed in pietrz' duri, in its centre—the
ceiling and walls are adorned with frescos; of which that,
representing the Cruciﬁxion, seems the best. The ground-
ﬂoor likewise contains ﬁne Frescos by Sebastiano Ricci,
Giovanni da San Giovanni, See. The ﬁrst room up-stairs
contains ten statues taken from the Villa—lVIedicis; and the
best of these is a lVIinerva. The second room contains
busts of Roman Emperors, and other sculpture, likewise
taken from the Villa-Medicis. In the third room are the
following paintings. A portrait, by Rembrandt—another,
of Titian’s mistress, by himself—three landscapes, by Sal-
vator Rosa- a battle-piece, by ditto ! l—two landscapes, by
Rubens—Astrologers, by Zingona—Hunters with game,
by Giovanni da San Giovanni. Fourz‘]: room—our Saviour
at supper, by Palma Vecchio a portrait of the Secretary
S. Juliano, by Cris. Allori—a Child, by Santi di Tito—our

 

can. 111. FLORENCE. 121

Saviour dead, S. John, the Madonna, and Mary Mag-
dalene, by Fra Bartolommeo ! !—a portrait of Giulio II,
by Pordenone—the Deposition from the Cross, by Andrea
del Sarto—a Holy Family, by Pordenone. Fg'fth room—
the ZVIadomza della scggiola, by Raphael I! l l! S. Mark, by
Fra Bartolommeo ! ! ! l—two pictures of Joseph and his
Brethren, by Andrea del Sarto—a copy of Raphael’s fresco
of S. Peter delivered from prison, by Federico Zuccari—
the Madonna and Angels by Luca Giordano— S. Peter, by
Carlo Dolci—our Saviour and other ﬁgures, by Cigoli—
S. Sebastiano, by Titian. Sz'xt/z room—S. John, as a child,
sleeping on the cross, by Carlo Dolci ! l—two pictures of
the assumption, by Andrea del Sarto—the Hours, by
Giulio Romano! !—a Holy Family, by Titian—~S. Sebas-
tiano, by Annibale Caracci—Cleopatra, by Guido—Andrea
del Sarto and his wife, by himself—Giulio II, by Ra-
phael ! l—S. John, by Carlo Dolci—our Saviour and saints,
by Fra Bartolommeo l—a dead Christ, by Pietro Perugino
—a hIadonna and other ﬁgures, by Raphael !—four Saints,
by Andrea del Sarto. Seventh room—The Madonna, our
Saviour, &c. by Fra Bartolommeo ! ! l—Calvin, Luther
and Catherine! by Giorgione da Castel-Franco, one of
the Founders of the Lombard-school—the Madonna, 810.
by Andrea del Sarto—a head, by Carlo Dolci !——Leo X,
by Raphael” Eight/z room—the Fates, by Buonarotill
——our Saviour and the Madonna crowned, by Carlo Dolci——
a Holy Family, by Raphael !—a Magdalene, by Titian—a
Child, by Correggio—S. John, by Andrea del Sarto.
Until room—our Saviour in the Garden, by Carlo Dolci !!
—a Holy Family, by Schidonel—The ceilings of these
apartments, up-stairs, painted by Pietro da Cortona and
his Scholars, represent the patriotic actions of the Medici
family, under emblems taken from Heathen mythology.

122 TRAVELS ON THE CON'I‘INENT.

Ceiling of tlze Camera di Venere. Minerva forcing a
Youth, (by whom is meant Cosimo 1,) from the arms of
Venus, to place him under the guidance of Hercules;
while the Genius of War shows him the laurel-wreath, he
ought to aspire after l—The continence of Scipio—An-
tiochus quitting his mistress, to go where duty calls him—
Crispus, son of the Emperor Constantine, resisting the
solicitations of Fausta, his step—mother—Cyrus dismissing
his prisoner, Panthea, that he might not be seduced by her
charms—Augustus showing Cleopatra that her beauty had
not power to captivate him—Alexander receiving the
mother and wife of Darius with humanity, but without
being betrayed into faulty admiration of the latter—Massi-
nissa sending poison to the Queen of Numidia, that she
might avoid, by death, the disgrace of swelling Scipio’s
triumph.

VVhile Pietro da Cortona was employed in painting the
Camera di Venerc, Ferdinando II, who came to view the
work, expressed great admiration of a child drowned in
tears. “ See,” replied the painter, “ with what facility
children are made either to laugh or weep!” and, so
saying, he gave one stroke with his brush, and the child
appeared to be laughing; till, with another stroke, he
restored the countenance to its original form.

Ceiling of the Camera d’Apollo. A Youth, who again
represents Cosimo I, inspired with poetic ﬁre, and Apollo
showing him the celestial globe, that he may sing of its
wonders—Caesar attending to instructive books as he walks,
that he may not waste time—Augustus, after having shut
the temple of Janus, cherishing the Muses, and listening to
the Eneid—Alexander preparing to march, and taking

m "

CHAP. m. FLORENCE. 123

with him part of the Iliad—the Emperor Justinian forming
a code of laws.

Ceiling 9}" tlze Camera (Ii Marta. Cosimo I, under the
form of a young warrior, leaping out of a boat, and com-
bating with his lance; while Mars assists him, by darting
lightning at his enemies—Castor and Pollux carrying the
spoils of the Vanquished to Hercules; who makes them
into a trophy—Captives loaded with chains supplicating
the Goddess of Victory; Peace, with the olive—branch in
her hand, giving them comfort; while Abundance revives,

and scatters blessmgs among the conquered people !

Ceiling of the Camera di Giove. Jupiter receiving a
young Hero, who still represents Cosimo I, and is con-
ducted to Olympus, by Hercules and Fortune, in order to
receive a crown of immortality. A Genius holds his hands
before the Hero’s eyes, to prevent their being dazzled by
the splendor of the Thunderer; While another Genius pre-
sents the young man’s armour, perforated with javelins, to
the Goddess of Victory, who engraves his name upon a
shield: she is supposed to have just begun, and only written
the initial letter of the word, Media's. The frescos, in
form of a fan, represent the emblems of peace; namely,
Minerva planting an olive-tree—Mars mounted on Pegasus
—Castor and Pollux with their horses coupled together—
Vulcan reposing in his forge—Diana sleeping after the
chase. Apollo, god of arts, and Mercury, god of com-
merce and wealth, appear among the emblems of peace;
while the General of the Vanquished is represented as
making ineﬂ’ectual efforts to snap his chains; in which
attempt he is aided by Discord, who carries, in her hand,
a torch to rclume the ﬂames of war.

124 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. m.

Ceiling qftlze Stanza di Ercole. Hercules on the funeral
pile; above which is the apotheosis of that Hero, whom
Mars and Prudence conduct to Olympus, where he receives
a crown of immortality. '

The Palazzo-Pitti may usually be seen from eleven till
twelve in the morning; and from three till ﬁve in the after-
noon. The Custode up stairs expects from three to six
pauls, according to the size of the party he attends; and
the Servant below stairs expects two or three pauls.

lec Giardz'no dz' Bobolz', open to the public on Sundays
and Thursdays, is very large; and contains several pieces
of sculpture; the most remarkable of which are two Dacian
Prisoners, in oriental porphyry, at the entrance; a colossal
Ceres; the Fountain at the end of the principal walk, de-
corated with a colossal Neptune standing on a granite
bason above twenty feet in diameter, with the Ganges, Nile,
and Euphrates beneath, all by Giovanni di Bologna; Nep-
tune, in bronze, surrounded with sea-monsters, by Lorenzi;
and four unﬁnished statues by Buonaroti.

T 126 M1360 d‘Istorz'a Naturale, collected by the Grand
Duke, Leopoldo, is said to be the ﬁnest museum existing,
with respect to the anatomical preparations in wax and
wood, the petrifactions and minerals, and the thick-leafed,
milky, and spongy plants; which cannot be preserved in
the common way, and are therefore beautifully represented
in wax, to complete the botanical part of this princely col—
lection. All the anatomical preparations, in wax and wood,
were executed under the orders of Cav. F. Fontana, ex—
cept the famous representation of the Plague; which was
done by the Abate Lumbo in the days of the lVledici; and
is so painfully ﬁne that few persons can bear to examine it.

cusp. m. FLORENCE. 125

This masterly performance owes its present place to Cav.
Giovanni Fabbroni, a Gentleman already‘mentioned, who
has not only contributed essentially to the improvement of the
museum, but likewise to that of arts and sciences in general.
Below stairs is a Laboratory. On the ﬁrst ﬂoor are two
rooms ﬁlled with large quadrupeds, ﬁshes, &c.—a Library—
rooms destined to Mechanics, Hydraulics, Electricity, and
Mathematics; together with a botanic Garden—and, on
the secondﬂoor, are twenty rooms, containing the repre-
sentation of the Plague and anatomical Preparations; all of
which may be avoided by persons not inclined to see them.
In another suite of apartments, on the same ﬂoor, are Birds,
Fishes, Reptiles, Insects, Shells, Fossils, Minerals, Wax-
plants, Sic. The observatory makes a part of this Museum;
which is usually open to the public every day, festivals ex-
cepted, from eight in the morning till twelve; and again
from three till ﬁve in the afternoon.

Santa Maria del Fiore, or the Dnomo, was begun about
the year 1294, by Arnolfo; and ﬁnished about the year
1445, by Brunellesco: it measures 426 feet in length, and
in width 363. Its cupola was completed by the last-
named architect; who has gained immortal honour by the
performance: its lanthorn, designed by Brunellesco, is of
solid marble, ﬁnely carved. The outward walls of this
vast church are incrusted with black and white polished
marble; the pavement is marble; and the balustrades and
pillars which surround the tribuna, were designed by Buo-
naroti, and ornamented with bassi-rz'lz'cz‘i by Bandinelli
and Giovanni del Opera. Toward the Via de’ Servi, over
a door of curious workmanship, is an Annunciation in
mosaic, called by the ancients, lz'thostratnm, and executed
by Ghirlandajo: another specimen of the same kind is
placed within the church, above the great door. Over the

126 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. III.’

southern door is a group of the Madonna and our. Saviour
between two Angels, by Giovanni Pisano. At the upper
end of the choir is a cruciﬁx, by Benedetto da Majano;
behind the high altar a marble Pieta‘ said to have been the
last work of Buonaroti, which death prevented him from
completing! and on the altar are three statues by Ban—
dinelli, of God the Father, our Saviour, and an Angel.
This ediﬁce contains statues, portraits, and monuments of
c.elebr ited chalactels of the Florentine Republic. On the
right, near the great d001, 1s a bust of B1 unellesco; next
to this, a bust of Giotto; further on, are Pietro Farnese,
General of the Florentines, and Marsilio Fecini, the Re-
viver of the Platonic philosophy; a man as remarkable for
his learning, as for the‘lowness of his stature. Near the
door leading to the Via de’ Servi, is an antique portrait of
Dante, the father of Italian poetry: whose tomb, however,
is at Ravenna; where he died in exile. This portrait was
done by Andrea Orgagna; and so highly do the Floren—
tines venerate the memory of Dante that the place where
he often sat, in the Piazza del Duomo, is carefully dis-
tinguished by a white stone. Near to this great Poet is a
picture of Giovanni Acuto, the Pisan General ; and another
of Niccolo da Tolentino; and under the ﬁrst-named picture
is an inscription which says, Acuto was a British Knight *.
In the Chapel of S. Zenobio is a bronze ciborio, by GM-
berti; and the door of the Sacristy was executed by Luca

della Robbia f.

The Cmnpam'le, a quadrangular tower of black, white,

* Supposed to have been Sir John Hawkwood, who died in
the reign of Richard II.

T The Meridian in this church is said to be the largest astro—
nomical instrument in Europe.

CHAP. III. FLORENCE. 127

and red marble, designed by Giotto, and begun in 1334, is
280 feet in height, and the most beautiful ediﬁce of its
kind in Italy. The four statues on the side nearest to the
Baptistery, are by Donatello; and one of these (called by its
author his Zucconc, or Bald-pate,) he preferred to all his
other works, partly from the beauty of the sculpture, and
partly because it resembled one of his friends. The other
statues are by Niccolo Aretino, Andrea Pisano, Giottino,

and Luca della Robbia.

S. Giovanni, or the Baptistery, supposed to have been
originally a temple of Mars, is of an octangular form, with
a roof somewhat like that of the Pantheon. The exterior
walls are incrusted with polished marble; and the two
bronze doors, done by Ghibcrti, after the designs of Ar-
nolfo, and formerly gilt, are so peculiarly beautiful that
Buonaroti used to say, they deserved to have been the
gates of Paradise. The other door was executed by
Andrea Pisano, after the designs of Giotto. The foliage
and festoons, round the ﬁrst-named doors, are by Ghiberti’s
son, Bonacorsa; the bassi-rilz'cvi represent scriptural his-
tories. On the outside of the Baptistery is a celebrated
group, in bronze, by F. Rustici, representing S. John
‘ Baptist with a Scribe and a Pharisee. The two porphyry
columns, on the sides of the principal entrance, were pre-
sented by the Pisans to the Florentines, in consequence of
the latter having guarded Pisa while its inhabitants were
engaged in subduing lVIajorca and Minorca: and the
pendant chains, seen here, and in other parts of the city,
are trophies won by the Florentines when they conquered
the ancient Porto-Pisano. The interior part of the Bap-
tistery is adorned with sixteen immense granite columns,
which support a gallery, and between these columns are
statues representing the twelve Apostles, the Law of nature,

 

128 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. m.

and the written Law, all by Ammannati, except S. Simon;
which, in consequence of the original statue being broken,
was replaced by Spinnazzi. The high altar is adorned
with a statue of S. John Baptist in the act of being trans-
ported to Heaven by Angels; and this group and the orna—
ments of the pulpit are by Ticciati. On the ceiling are
mosaics by Apollonius, (a Grecian artist;) Andrea Tefﬁ,
Gaddo Gaddi, 8w. The pavement is chieﬂy ancient mosaic;
and in one part represents the sun, with the twelve signs of
the zodiac. In ancient mosaic, likewise, is the following
inscription; which may be read either backward or for-
ward: “ En giro torte Sol ciclos et rotor igne *3’

The Chicsa (Ii S. Marco, belonging to the Padri Dome-
nicani, is a handsome ediﬁce, adorned with good sculpture
and valuable paintings. On the right of the great door
are a Cruciﬁxion, by Santi di Tito—the Madonna, our
Saviour, and Saints, by Fra Bartolommeol and a curious
old mosaic, representing the Madonna, 8w. The cupola of
the tribuna was painted by Alessandro Gherardini; and
behind the high altar is the last Supper, by Sacconi. To
the right of the tribuna is the Serragli chapel; the ceiling
of which was painted by Poccetti! here, likewise, are, the
last Supper, by Santi di Tito, and the Supper of Emmaus,
by Cav. Curradi. Further on, is the Salviati Chapel, com-
pletely incrusted with marble, and containing a picture, by
Alessandro Allori, of the return of our Saviour from Pur-
gatory; a statue of S. John Baptist, executed after the
design of GiOVanni di Bologna, by Francavilla; bronze
bassi-rz'lz’evz’, executed after the designs of Giovanni di Bo-
logna, by Portigiani; a cupola painted by Aless. Allori;
two paintings representing the exposition and translation of

* “ Phoebus drives on, oblique, his ﬁery car.”

CHAP. In. FLORENCE. 1929

S. Antonino, by Passignano! and, under the arch of the
chapel, S. Antonino in marble, by Giovanni di Bologna!
Leading down the church, toward the great door, is a pic-
ture by Cigoli, representing the Emperor Heraclius, in the
habit of a Penitent, bearing the cross; a ﬁne copy, by Gab-
biani, of Bartolommeo’s celebrated picture of the Madonna,
our Saviour and S. Catherine; S. Vincenzio Ferreri preach-
ing to the people; and the Transﬁguration, by Paggi.
The ceiling of the nave is painted by Pueci ! and the cur-
tain of the organ, by Gherardini. In this church are
buried two celebrated men, Angelo Poliziano, and Giovanni
Pico della llirandola; both highly famed for their learn-
ing; and the latter was not only styled, “ The phoenix of
the sciences;” but called, by Scaliger, “ A prodigy—a man
without a fault l”—They both died in 1494. The Sacristy
of S. Marco contains a statue of our Saviour, by Antonio
Novelli! two bassi—rz'lz'evz', by Conti; and, over the ﬁrst
door, within side, a picture, by Beato Giovanni Angelico.
The Library is rich in manuscripts—the Cloisters are
adorned with frescos by B. G. Angelico, Poccetti, Fra
Bartolommeo, Carlo Dolci, Ste. and near the garden is a
chapel, painted by Poccetti, and now the Spezz'erz'u, where
the best essences in Florence are fabricated.

The Church of the S. S. Annunziata contains a fresco of
the Annunciation, done by a certain Bartolommeo; who
being, it is said, at a loss how to make the countenance of
the Madonna properly seraphic, fell asleep, while pondering
over his work; and, on waking, found it executed in a
style he was unable to equal: upon which, be instantly ex-
claimed, “ A miracle, a miracle!”—and his countrymen
were too fond of miracles not to believe him; although the
Madonna’s face is by no means so exquisitely painted as to
be attributed to a heavenly artist. Tim open Vestz'bulr,

K

130 TRAVELS on THE CONTINEN'I‘. CHAP. 111.

leading to the church, is ornamented with several frescos;
namely, a nativity, by Baldovinetti; S. Filippo Benizzi in-
duced to embrace the monastic life in consequence of a
vision, by Rosselli; S. Filippo covering a naked Leper with
his own shirt, by Andrea del Sarto; S. Filippo while tra—
velling toward Modena, reviled by young men sitting under
a tree; which, being struck with lightning, two of the re-
vilers are killed: this is by Andrea del Sarto; as are, S.
Filippo delivering a young person from an evil spirit ;—a
dead child restored to life, by touching the garment which
covered the corpse of the Saint—women and children
kneeling round a friar, who is adorned with the relics of S.
Filippo’s clothes ;———and seven lunettes, on the other side of
the vestibule. The marriage of the Madonna, is by Franea-
bigio; the visit of Mary to Elizabeth, by Pontormo; and
the Assumption, by Rossi. This Corridor contains a bust
of Andrea del Sarto. The Church of the Annunziata is
loaded with ornaments: it contains, in the centre of the
ceiling, an Assumption, by V olterrano; who likewise painted
the cupola of the Tribunal In the chapel which encloses
the miraculous picture is an altar adorned with silver bassi-
relicvi ,- two silver candelabra about six feet high; two large
silver statues ofangels; a ciborio beautifully worked, and em-
bellished with a head of our Saviour, by Andrea del Sarto:
a silver cornice, from which hangs a curtain of the same
metal: and an immense number of silver lilies, and lamps,
which encircle the altar. The pavement of this chapel
is porphyry and Egyptian granite; and in the adjoining
Oratory, whose walls are inerusted with agate, jasper, and
other precious stones, is a cruciﬁx, by Antonio di San Gallo.
To the left of the great door is a picture of the last Judg-
ment by Aless. Allori; and another, of the Cruciﬁxion, by
Stradano: the ceiling and lunettes of the Chapel on this
side, at the end of the cross, are painted in fresco by Volter—

CHAP. 1n. FLORENCE. 131

rano! and contain a curious old picture, over the altar, of
S. Zenobia, and other ﬁgures. In front of the high-altar
(which is adorned with a splendid silver ciborio), are re-
cumbent statues; the one by Francesco da S. Gallo, the
other by Giovanbatista Foggini: and behind the altar is at
Chapel decorated after the designs, and at the expense, of
Giovanni di Bologna, who was buried in it; and whose
tomb is adorned with a cruciﬁx and bassz' rilz'evz', in bronze,
executed by himself for the Grand-Duke; by whom they
were thus handsomely and judiciously appropriated. The
chapel contains a picture of the Resurrection, by Ligozzi;
a Pz'eta, by Passignano; a Nativity, by Paggi; and a Cupo-
letta by Poccetti! Leading from the high altar, toward the
great door in the opposite side of the cross to that already
described, is 3 Chapel painted by V incenzio Meucci: and
near this, is the Chapel of Bandinelli, containing a dead
Christ, in marble, supported by Nicodemus; the latter being
a portrait of Bandinelli, by whom this group was executed.
The curtain of the organ, representing the canonization of
S. Giuliana, is by Romei. In a Corridor on the left side
of the church, is the celebrated fresco called La Madonna
del Sacco!!! deemed the masterpiece of Andrea del Sarto;
and at which Buonaroti and Titian are said to have gazed
unceasingly. It is recorded that the author of this beautiful
work did it for a sack of corn, in a time of famine. Here
are other paintings by eminent artists; and those in the
Corridor which contains the Madonna del Sacco were done
by Poccetti; who has represented the most remarkable
actions of the six Founders of the Monastery. Another
Corridor contains, Manetto preaching before S. Louis King
of France; and Innocent IV, making his nephew Protector
of the order of Servites, both by Rosselli; and the Madonna
in a car, by Salimbeni. Another Corridor exhibits Alex-
ander IV, giving Religion power to erect monasteries
K 2

132 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. III.

throughout the world, by Rosselli; Buonﬁgliulo resigning the
government of the Church, by Poccetti, - three other paint-
ings, by Salimbeni; and, on the ceiling,
illustrious Servites. The Refectory IS adorned with a fresco,

small portraits of

by Santi di Tito; and on the top of the stairs, leading to
the Noviziato, is a Pieta, by Andrea del Sarto, deemed one
of his best works: this great Painter was buried in the open
Vestibule before the church.

The Chiesa dz' S. .Maria Illuddalcna dei Pazzz' particu-
larly deserves notice, on account of the Neri—Chapel, situated
on the right side of the Court leading to the church. The
altar-piece of this chapel is by Passignano; and its cupoletta
contains the chef—(11mm? of Poccetti, representing the man-
sions of the Blessed ! l i In the church is a magniﬁcent
Capella-Ilzaggzon', incrusted with rare and beautiful marbles,
and adorned with twelve columns of Sicilian jasper, whose
capitals and bases are of bronze. gilt. Here rest the remains
of S. ‘Maria lVIaddalena dei Pazzi, surrounded with bassi—
7'1'11'6712' of bronze gilt (expressing the most memorable
actions of her life), and four marble statues, representing
her most conspicuous virtues; namely, piety, sweetness,
penitence, and religion. Sweetness, with the lamb and dove,
and Religion with a veil, are particularly worth notice:
especially the latter; the features through the veil being
ﬁnely expressed. The cupola is by Pietro Dandini; and
the other paintings, by Ciro Ferri and Luca Giordano. On
the right of the high-altar is :1 Chapel adorned with freseos,
by Sorbolini, a living artist; and on the left another Chapel,
likewise painted in fresco, by Catani, a living artist. This
church also contains a ﬁne 01 uc1ﬁ\ 111 w ood, by Buontalenti ,
and the cuitain of the organ, dohe by G. B. Cip1iani, who
has left no othex w01k in Florence, represents S. Maria
Maddalena receiving the communiOn from the hand of our

(‘HAP. m. FLORENCE. 133

Saviour! The ﬁrst Chapel, on the right, near the great
door, contains the martyrdom of S. Romolo, by Carlo
Portelli; said to be the only picture he ever painted; and
on the opposite side of the church are, the Visitation, by
Ghirlandajo; Christ in the garden, by Santi di Tito—and
the coronation of the Madonna, by Angelico ! The Chapter-
room and Refectory of the Monastery, to which this church
belongs, are embellished with the works of Perugino,
Raﬂaellino del Garbo, and other celebrated artists.

The Chico-a di Santa Croce, built about the year 1294,
by Arnolfo, and afterward repaired by Vasari, is a vast
ediﬁce, better calculated to promote religious contemplation
than any other church at Florence. Over the middle-door
of the facade, is a statue, in bronze, by Donatello—and at the
entrance of the church, on the right, is the tomb of Buona-
roti; who was born, at Chiusi, near Arezzo, in 1474, and
died, at Rome, in 1563; but the Grand-Duke of Tuscany,
jealous that Rome should have the honour of providing a
grave for this great and good man, ordered his body to be
removed thence, and buried in the church of Santa Croce.
The family of Buonaroti was noble: and hﬁchael Angelo’s
parents were averse to his becoming an artist; which they
deemed derogatory to nobility: he, however, by unceasing
importunities, at length prevailed upon them to let him
follow his natural genius. Sculpture, Painting, and Archi-
tecture, are represented, in mournf'ul attitudes, sitting
beneath the tomb of their Favourite; whose bust rests upon
a sarcophagus: and a small painting, done by Buonaroti,
is introduced among the ornaments at the top of the monu-
ment. The statue of Sculpture, by Cioli, is ill done;
Architecture, by Giovanni dell” Opera, is more happily
executed; and Painting, by G. Batista del Cavaliere, better

m?"‘r‘.v>"“'~‘ ~“N'Vyr‘ A— -~ A

1.2; 331. vs

1345 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. III.

still: the bust of Buonaroti is by the last-named artist *.
The second tomb, on this side, is that of Filippo Buona-
roti, the antiquary—the third, that of Pietro Michelli,
called, by Linnaaus, “ The lynx of botany ”—the fourth,
that of Vittorio Alﬁeri, by Canova: who has represented
Italy mourning over the sarcophagus of the poet; which is
adorned with masks, lyres, laurel-wreaths, and a head of
Alﬁeri, in basso-riliez'o. The Florentines are not pleased
with the shape of this monument; neither do they like the
manner in which the figure of Italy is draped: and this
last circumstance, united with the late public revolutions,
gave birth to the following jeu (Pcspr‘it :

“ Canova questa volta l’ha sbagliata
Fe l'ltalia vestitu ed e spogliata."

The ﬁfth monument, on this side, is that of Machiavelli;
erected 266 years after his death, at the expense of the
Literati. The sixth monument is that of Lanzi; near
which is an Annunciation, in marble, by Donatello. The
eighth monument is that of Leonardo Bruni, Aretino, the
Historian; which bears a Latin inscription to this purport;
“ Since Leonard died, History mourns, Eloquence is
mute; and it is said that neither the Greek nor Latin
Muses can refrain from tears.” The ninth monument is
that of Nardini, a famous Musician; and the tenth that of

* Buonaroti, when an infant, was put out to nurse at the
village of Settignano, about three miles distant from Florence;
and where the inhabitants were chieﬂy stone-cutters and sculp-
tors; his nurse’s husband followed the latter occupation; so
that the child's passion for this art seems to have been sucked

in with his milk.

CHAP. 111. FLORENCE. 135

an equally famous architect, Pio Fantoni of F iesole. The
Castellani—Chapel contains a picture of the last Supper by
Vasari; a monument to the memory of Cav. Vanni; and
another to that of M. B. Skotnicki; representing Grief as
a recumbent female ﬁgure, veiled, and lying on a sarco-
phagus, which exhibits a pallet, brushes, and an unstrung
lyre. This monument is by Ricci, now a distinguished
artist; but, not long since, a peasant on the Marchese
Corsi's estate, near Florence. The Baroncelli-Chapel
contains paintings, on the walls, by Taddeo-Gaddi; and,
over the altar, a picture of the Coronation of the Madonna,
Szc. by Giotto. The Riccardi-Chapel contains good
paintings, by Passignano, Rosselli, and Giovanni di San
Giovanni. Behind the high-altar are paintings, by Agnolo
Gaddi, representing the Invention of the Cross *. The
Niccolini-Chapel, built after the design of Antonio Dosio,
and beautifully incrusted with rare marbles, contains ﬁne
pictures by Aless. Allori; statues of Moses and Aaron, by
Francavilla ! and a cupola, painted in fresco by Volterrano,
the four sibyls in the angles of - which are clzefs—d’wumes !!
This quarter of the church likewise contains a celebrated
cruciﬁx, by Donatello; together with pictures of the
Martyrdom of S. Lorenzo, by Ligozzi; the Trinity, by

*' The history of the Invention of the Cross is as follows.
In 356, Saint Helena, the mother of Constantine, being at
Jerusalem, ordered the Temple of Venus, which profaned that
sacred spot, to be destroyed; in doing which, remains of the
Holy Sepulchre were discovered; and likewise three crosses:
it seemed, however, impossible to ascertain which of the three
was that whereon our Saviour suffered; till a learned prelate
took them all to the habitation of a dying lady, placing her ﬁrst
on one, then on another, and then on the third, which she no
sooner touched than the illness left her.

ﬂ... -- _ .4,.._-".——...—-__.t __.._.__- ._ .-- a

136 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. III.

Cigoli! and the descent of the Holy Ghost, by Vasari!
Leading toward the great door, and opposite to the menu-
ments already described, are the following: First, the tomb
of Cocchio—second, that of Carlo Mazzopini—third, that
of Carlo Marzuppini, Aretino,iﬁnely executed by Desiderio
da Settignano-fourth, that of Lami, by Foggini—ﬁfth,
that of Pompeio-Josephi Signorinio, by Ricci; who has
adorned this sarcophagus with a beautiful recumbent ﬁgure
of Philosophy; whose countenance expresses deep sorrow.
Near this tomb is a picture of the Resurrection, by Santi di
Tito; together with the monument of the great and much
injured Galileo; erected, by order of Viviani, his pupil.
The bust of Galileo is by Foggini. History tells us that
Galileo was at ﬁrst interred in the Piazza Santa Croce
(which is unconsecrated ground); because he lay under
suspicion of heresy, on account of his philosophical dis-
coveries: nay, it is even asserted that the family of Nelli
(Viviani’s executors) found some difﬁculty in obtaining leave
to remove his bones into the church, almost a century after
his decease. Beyond this tomb is that of Filicajo. At the
bottom of the church is a painting of the Resurrection, by
Aless. Allori! and the pulpit merits notice, as it was
executed by Benedetto (la Majano. The Sacristy contains
curious pictures, in fresco, by T addeo Gaddi; and, in the
lVIonastery of Santa Croce, are paintings by Cimabue and
Giotto.

T/ze C/zz'esa (11' S. Lorenzo, built at the expense of a lady,
named Juliana, who lived during the reign of the Emperor
Theodosius, consecrated in 392, and rebuilt in 14:25, by
Brunellesco, contains a high-altar of beautiful Florentine
work, done by command of the Grand-Duke Leopoldo,
and designed for the Chapel of Medicis: and, above this

altar, are a cruciﬁx, by Giovanni (li Bologna, a lVIadonna,

CHAP. 111. FLORENCE. 137

by Buonaroti !! and S. John, by one of his scholars. The
church likewise contains the tomb of Cosimo Pater Patrice,-
two pulpits adorned with bronze bassi-relz'evz', by Dona-
tello; and a ciborio of marble, together with an Infant-
Jesus, by Desiderio da Settignano.

The new Sacrlsty, 0r Capella de’ Principl, designed by
Buonaroti, contains the tomb of Giuliano de’ Medici,
Duke of Nemours, and brother to Leo X; ornamented
with a statue of the Duke; a recumbent ﬁgure of Day !!
and another of Night!! all by Buonaroti—the tomb of
Lorenzo de’ Medici, Duke of Urbino; ornamented with a
statue of that Prince; together with a recumbent ﬁgure of
Twilight, and another of Day—break, all by Buonaroti!
and here likewise, by the same great master, is a group of a
hladonna and Child, which, if ﬁnished, might, according
to appearance, have proved the ﬁnest of his works ! l

T116 old Sacrz'sly, built by Brunellesco, contains a por—
phyry tomb, with bronze ornaments, made to enclose the
remains of Pietro and Giovanni, sons of Cosimo, Pater
Patrz'a’, by Verrocchio.

Tile Capella de’ iMedz'cz', adjoining to the church of
S. Lorenzo, was begun in 1604, by Ferdinando I, after his
own design. Three hundred workmen were, for a con-
siderable time, employed upon this building: but, latterly,
the number has been lessened: and we have already seen
the ducal family of Medicis extinct; nay, perhaps, may see
the Dukedom itself annihilated, ere the ﬁnishing stroke be
given to this magniﬁcent mausoleum of its Princes. The
building is octangular; and the walls are beautifully in-
crusted with almost every kind of precious marble. Six
sides of the octagon are embellished with sarcophagi of

 

138 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. 111.

Egyptian and oriental granite; made after the designs of
Buonaroti; and two of them enriched with cushions of red
jasper, which bear regal crowns of great value. Here,
likewise, are two statues, in bronze, one of which is by
Giovanni di Bologna, and the other by Pietro Tacca. The
sarcophagi are mere ornaments; the bodies of the Princes
being placed perpendicularly under them, in a subterranean
repository.

The Cappella de’ hIedici may be seen daily, from ten in
the morning till four in the afternoon.

The Mcdz'ceo—Laurenzz'ana Lilmuy, one of the most
elegant apartments of its kind in Europe, was built, under
the direction of Buonaroti; by whom the designs for the
pavement also were executed. The windows are beauti-
fully painted in arabesque by Raphael’s scholars; and the
manuscripts, which compose this library, are well arranged,
highly valuable, and several of them ﬁnely illuminated.
Here are, a Virgil of the third century, written in capitals
——an old Testament of the twelfth century—the celebrated
Pisan Pandect of the sixth century—the psalms of David of
the eleventh century—a prayer-book beautifully illuminated
—a missal, painted by the school of Pietro Perugino—a
copy of Dante, written only twenty-two years after his
death—a Livy of the ﬁfteenth century, beautifully il-
luminated—the geography of Ptolomy (of the ﬁfteenth
century)—-—the Dccmnerone of Boccaccio, written two years
before his death—a Homer of the ﬁfteenth century—a
Horace with Petrarca’s own hand—writing in it-a cele-
brated Syriac manuscript— the lite of Lorenzo de’ Medici,

Ste. Sic.

This Library is usually open to the public, except

CHAP. III. FLORENCE. 139

during the vacation, and on festivals. A triﬂing fee is ex-
pected, by the Sub-Librarian, for attending Travellers.

Tile Chiesa di Santa Maria Novella, commenced in 1279,
by two Domenican Blonks, was so much admired by Buo-
naroti, that he used to call it his Sposa. Over the middle
door, on the inside, is a cruciﬁx, by Giotto—and, to the
right, are the following pictures; an Annunciation, by Santi
di Tito—a Nativity, by Naldini l—and the Resurrection of
Lazarus, by Santi di Tito. Here, likewise, are the tomb
of Villana dei Botti, by Settignano! and a painting of the
Madonna, by Cimabue, supposed to have been the ﬁrst
work he ever did in Florence" ; and near the latter is the
Martyrdom of S. Catherine, by Giuliano Bugiardini; se-
veral of the ﬁgures in which picture were designed by Buona—
roti. This part of the church also contains a Madonna,
in marble, by Benedetto da blajano. In the choir, behind
the high-altar, are paintings representing the lives of the
lVIadonna and S. John Baptist, all by Ghirlandajo; they
comprize portraits of the Painter himself, and of several
of his most illustrious Contemporaries; among whom are
Pietro, Giovanni, and Lorenzo de’ Medici. The high-
‘ altar was erected in 1804; and the altar—piece is by Sabatelli.
The adjacent Chapel contains a cruciﬁx done by Brunel-
lesco, for the famous Countess who lived with Donatello.
In the next Chapel is a picture of Christ raising the dead,
by Agnolo Bronzino ; and a ceiling by the same artist:
the tombs and bassi-rz'lz'evi in this chapel are by Giovanni
dell’ Opera. A Chapel on the top of some steps, and im-
mediately opposite to that wherein the Madonna of Cimabue
is placed, contains paintings by Andrea and Bernardo Or-
cagna; who have represented Hell in one part, and Heaven

* This is in :1 Chapel to which you enter by steps.

 

ﬂue-WMVW—-h _... 1. .

140 TRAVELS on THE con'rmnxr. anr. 111.

in another !. This church likewise contains, on one of its
pillars, the martyrdom of S. Peter, by Cigoli ; and a ﬁne
painting of the good Samaritan, by Aless. Allori The
paintings over the door of the Campanile are by Buﬂ‘al-
macco; and the adjoining Monastery contains several va-
luable frescos by old Masters; among which there is said to
be a portrait of Laura *.

The C/zz'csa d’Orsanmz'c/zele is esteemed for its architec-
ture; and was built by Giotto and Taddeo Gaddi, as the
market for grain. OIL the outside are several pieces of sculp-
ture, namely; Saints Matthew, Stephen, and John Baptist,
by Ghiberti; S. John the Evangelist, by Baccio da lWonte-
lupo; Saints Peter, Mark, and George, by Donatello (the
last is deemed particularly ﬁne); S. Philip the Apostle, S.
Eligio, and four other Saints in one group, by Nanni d’An-
tonio; S. Thomas, by Andrea Verrocchio; S. Luke, in
bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna ! and another statue ofthat
Apostle, by LVIino da Fiesole. The inside of this church
contains sculpture, by the Revivers of the art.

The C/zz'esa (Ii San Spirito, built by Brunellesco, is, in
point of architecture, the ﬁnest church at Florence. On the
right of the entrance-door is a copy, by Nanni di Baccio, of
Buonaroti’s Field, in S. Peter’s at Rome. The picture ofour
Saviour driving the Profane from the Temple, is by Stra-
dano—the stoning of S. Stephen, by Passignano—and
the group, in marble, of the Arch-Angel Raphael and
Tobias, by Giovanni Baratta. The second picture, to the
right of this group, is by Filippo Lippi—the picture of the
Madonna, our Saviour, and S. Catherine, by the same au-

* The Spaiwia of Santa Maria Novella is celebrated for

perfumes, medicines, dc.

CHAP. m. FLORENCE. 141

thor—and the Virgin appearing to S. Bernardo, is a ﬁne
copy of a work of Perugino’s. The picture, representing
several Martyrs, is by Aless. Allori—that, representing the
Woman taken in adultery, is by the same author—and the
beatiﬁed Chiara da Montefalcone receiving the communion
from our Saviour, is by Vignali. The Altar of the holy
sacrament contains ﬁne sculpture, by Andrea Contucci, da
Monte San Savino! near this, is a picture, by Ghirlandajo,
of our Saviour bearing his cross !—-—and the Transﬁguration,
by Pietro di Cosimo. Returning to the nave, in the ﬁrst
Chapel, is a picture by Agnolo Bronzino, of Christ appear-
ing to the hiagdalene; and, next to this, is the Madonna, S.
Sebastiano, &c.; by Petrucci; copied from a work of‘Rosso’s.
Beyond the organ is S. Anne, the lVIadonna, and other
Saints, by Ghirlandajo; and, near this, is a statue of our
Saviour holding his cross, by T addeo Landini, from the
original of Buonaroti, at Rome. The Capella-maggiore,
by Michelozzi, is beautiful in point of architecture, richly
incrusted with precious marbles, and adorned with statues
of S. Peter and S. John. The roof of the Vestibule to the
Sacristy is one single block of stone. The Sacristy contains
an altar-piece,'_ by Filippo Lippi, of the Madonna, our
Saviour, Angels, and Saints ! l and apainting over the door,
by Poccetti, of S. Agostino, and an Angel, in the form ofa
child ! The architecture of the sacristy is particularly ﬁne ;
and that of the Campanile much admired.

La Chiesa del Carmine, begun in 1268, was nearly de-
stroyed, by ﬁre; and, in consequence of that accident, re-
paired, not many years since. The ceiling and cupola were
painted by Stagi and Romei: subjects—the most renowned
Characters of the old and new Testament—the Prophet
Elias conveyed to Heaven in a chariot ofﬁrc -—the 1V1 adonna
putting the veil upon S. Maria Maddalena de’ Pazzi—the

 

 

142 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. III.

beatiﬁed Angelo Mazzinghi in glory—and the ascension of
our Saviour into Heaven. On the right side of the entrance-
door is a picture of our Saviour on the cross, with the Ma-
donna and Magdalene standing near, by Vasari—a Pz'etﬁ
by Antonio Guidotti; and a picture of S. Jacopo, by Lo-
renzo Lippi! The Cappella della S. S. Vergine del Car-
mine was painted by Masolino da Panicale, and Masaccio
his disciple, the ﬁrst person who attained perfection in the
revived art; but, as he died young, his work was ﬁnished
by Filippo Lippi, the son of F ra Filippo. Leonardo da
Vinci, Bartolommeo, Andrea del Sarto, Buonaroti, and
Raphael, are supposed to have derived the greater part of
their knowledge from the study of these excellent paintings ;
which represent the life of S. Peter. In the choir is a
tomb, by Benedetto di Rovezzano. The curtain of the organ
(which is one of the best instruments at Florence) repre-
sents the Madonna giving the sacred habit to Simon Stock;
and was painted by Romei. But the most striking thing
here, is the Corsini-Chapel, magniﬁcently incrusted with
rare marbles, and containing the sarcophagus of S. Andrea
Corsini, adorned with silver bassi—rilz'cvi! Over the altar is
an alto-rz'lz'cvo, representing S. Andrea Corsini (who, from
a Monk, became Bishop of F iesole), ascending into Heaven:
this is by G. B. Foggini; and, above it, is God the Father
in glory, by lVIarcellini. On the sides of the chapel are two
marble alti-rz'liez'z', by Foggini; the one representing the
Saint reading his ﬁrst mass, and the )Iadonna appearing,
and saying; “ Thou art my Servant; I have chosen thee;
and in thee will I be gloriﬁed :” the other representng his
descent from Heaven to assist the Florentines in the battle
of Anghiari ! l ! The Cupoletta was painted by Luca Gior-
dano. To the right of this chapel is the Deposition from
the Cross, by G.D. F erretti, under a Cupoletta painted by
Romei: and, on that side of the nave not already described,

CHAP. m. FLORENCE. 143

is a picture of S. Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi receiving the
veil from the Madonna, by Fabbrini-a Nativity, by Gam-
bacciani—an Annunciation, by Poccetti—and the Adora-
tion of the Magi, copied, by Viligiardi, from?" the celebrated
picture of Gregorio Pagani. The monastery, to which this
church belongs, contains frescos by Vasari, I’occetti, 8Lc.

La Chiesa di S. Ty’inz‘ta‘ contains a Nativity, by Ghirlan-
dajo—a Pieta‘, by Angelicol—a Chapel belonging to the
Sassetti-family, representing, in fresco, the life of S. Fran-
cesco of Assisi, by Ghirlandajo !—-two pictures in the Cap-
pella degli Usimbardi; one representing S. Peter sinking,
by Cristofano Allori l—the other S. Peter receiving the
keys of Heaven, by Einpoli !—«with frescos, above, by Gio-
vanni di San Giovanni—a modern painting of S. Giovanni
Gualberto, in the act of pardoning an Enemy, by Francesco
Corsi—the Sermon on the Mount, by Rosselli—and an
Annunciation, by Empoli, placed under a cupoletta, ﬁnely
painted by Poccetti. The Statue of S. Maria Maddalena,
between the entrance-doors, was begun by Settignano, and
ﬁnished by Benedetto da hIajanol The Refectory was
painted by Giovanni di San Giovanni, and Ferrucci.

La Chiesa di S. Ambrogz'o contains a Chapel adorned
with sculpture, by Mino da Fiesole; and paintings, repre-
senting the miracle of the Cross, by Cosimo Rosselli ! l The
picture in the Cappella del Rosario is by Passignano; and
the small fresco, representing the Madonna, our Saviour,
and S. Anne, is by Masaccio l l

The Church of S. Gaetano contains the best Organ at
Florence, and some good pictures: thc Church of Ogm's-
smzti, likewise, contains good pictures; and the szse-rz'a-

'3 "WW

1":—

o

144 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARIII.

torio di R5120”, in Via della Scala, merits the attention of
Travellers who have time to spare.

T/ze rcalc Acgademz'a delle belle Arti, founded by the Grand-
Duke, Leopoldo, is open to public inspection at the same
hours with the Gallery; and highly merits notice, not only
on account of the liberality of the institution, which gives all
possible encouragement to rising Genius, but likewise as it
contains excellent casts of the Baptistery-doors, and most
of the ﬁne statues hitherto discovered in Italy. Here is a
noble apartment, ﬁtted up with drawings, Sac. ; for the use
of young Painters; other noble apartments, containing every
necessary accommodation for those who are further ad-
vanced; a gallery, containing paintings and sketches, by
celebrated lVIasters; among which is a valuable picture by
Angelico, another by Giovanni di San Giovanni, of the
repose in Egypt; and a beautiful head of our Saviour, by
Carlo Dolci. This Academy likewise contains Schools for
Architecture, practical lVlechanics, &c.; and here, also, the
Florentine work in pietri dm'i, called Opera (12' commesso,
is made.

Not far hence are Cloisters which formerly belonged to
the suppressed company of S. Giovanni Batista; but are
now in custody of the Academy, where the key is always
kept: these Cloisters, commonly called l’Oratorz'o dello
Scalzo, contain fresco-paintings of the life of S. John
Baptist, all by Andrea del Sarto, except two, which were
done by Francabigio. At the entrance of the court are
figures representing Faith and Hope; and, on the sides of
the opposite door, Charity, and Justice, all by Andrea. The
history of S. John commences with Zacharias becoming
dumb, on account of his incredulity. Second painting,

CHAP. 111. - FLORENCE. ‘ 145

vMatg' visiting Elizabeth—third, Elizabeth brought to bed
——fourth, Zacharias blessing S. John, who departs for the
desert; (this is by Francabigio)—ﬁfth, S. John meeting our
Saviour, as the latter returns from Eg*pt;‘ (likewise by
Francabigio)—sixth, the baptism of our Saviour, by S.
John—seventh, S. John preaching in the desert—eighth, the
converted Jews receiving baptism—ninth, S, John carried
before Herod—tenth, Herod’s supper and dance—eleventh,
the decapitation of S. John—twelfth, Herodius’s daughter
with the head of S. John. It is recorded that Andrea
del Sarto received, for each of these frescos, only twenty
livres"; though many of them are exquisitely ﬁne: they
will, however, shortly be obliterated by the humidity of
their situation, unless restored in the manner now practised

at Rome 1-.

Tile Palazzo-Gm'z'm' is adorned with valuable pictures;
though the ﬁnest part of this collection has been recently
sold. Among those which remain are—ﬁrst room—Charity,
by Cignani; and Hagar in the desert, by Rosselli. Second
room—head of a young Female, by Corregio ! T/zz'rd room
—four heads, by Nogari, and two pictures, by Bassano.
Fourtlz room—a landscape, by Beth; ditto by Swanevelt,
and ditto by Paul Brill! Fgﬂ/L room—Prometheus, by
Salvator Rosal! head of our Saviour, by Stradano; head
of a Female, by Carlo Dolci! Seventh room—Two land-
scapes, by Beth. S. Sebastiano, by Guercinol and the
Assumption, by Carlo Maratta. Eight/z room—our Saviour

* Fifteen shillings.

f The person who unlocks the door of the Oratorio dello
Scalzo expects two pauls for his trouble; and the person who
attends Travellers round the Royal Academy likewise expects
from two to three pauls, according to the size of the party.

L

146 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. anr. m.

in the sepulchre, by Tiarini! a dead Nun, by Vanni; a
little picture, by Rubens! the Madonna, our Saviour, and
S. John, by one of the Caracci Family; two little pictures,
by Peter Neﬁ' ! and two small landscapes, by Vernet. The
Madonna, our Saviour, and other ﬁgures, by Fra Bar-
tolommeo. A portrait of Salvator Rosa, by himself; a pea-
sant playing on a wind-instrument, by Murillo. A Holy
Family, by Raphael; a portrait of a Woman with a veil, by
Santi di Tito, and an old Man with a Child in his arms, by
Guido l ll

lee Palazzo-Rz'ccardi, which once belonged to the Medici
family, is a ﬁne building. The Gallery contains a ceiling
beautifully painted by Luca Giordano; the ceiling of the
Library is by the same master; and the collection of ma-
nuscripts and printed books is valuable.

The Palazzo-Corsz'ni is adorned with some good paint-
ings.

T/ze Palazzo Mozzz', near the Ponte a la Gracie, contains
ﬁne paintings, by Salvator Rosa.

The Palazzo-Buonarotz', in Via Glzz'bellz'na, is interest-
ing, from having been the residence of so great a man; and
likewise from containing some remains of his works.

The Palazzo—Strozzi is a ﬁne piece of Tuscan architec-
ture.

The Palazzo-Uguccz‘om’, built after the design of Buo-
naroti, contains a painting, by Perino del Vaga, of the
passage of the Israelites through the Red seal

CH AP. 111. FLORENCE. 147

The Casa dei Poveri, in Via dez' Malcontenti, which owes
its establishment to the Emperor Napoleon, is an immense
ediﬁce, capable of lodging three thousand persons, who, in
great measure, maintain themselves; by making caps, or
rather Phrygian bonnets, for the Mediterranean Mariners;
ribbons, cloth, carpets, Séc. &c. There are work-shops of
almost every description in the house; and the present
Grand-Duke of Tuscany, much to his honour, supports
and beneﬁts this benevolent and useful institution; which
has completely cleared Florence of the innumerable troops
of Mendicants by whom it was formerly infested.

T/ze Spedale (1i Bom' zio, or great Hospital, near the
Porta San-Gallo, receives Lunatics, and Persons afﬂicted
with chronic disorders; and is spacious, clean, and airy.
The Sick appear to be comfortably lodged and well at-
tended: but the funds belonging to this charity are not
sufﬁciently ample to supply convalescent Patients with a
proper quantity of nourishment. Detached frdm the rest
of the building are excellent apartments for Lunatics;
somewhat less care, however, seems to be taken of these
unhappy creatures, than of others.

Tile Spedale (12' Santa Maria Nuova contains upward
of a thousand beds; and the Patients are extremely well
attended. .

T/ze Spedale degl’ Imzocenti usually contains three thou-
sand Children; who have not, however, a sufﬁcient number
of nurses: and the custom of binding up every new born
infant in swaddling clothes, frequently distorts the limbs;
nay sometimes produces mortiﬁcation and death.

Tile Column of Saraz'ezza-maréle, in Via Remand, was
L 2

 

 

148 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINE'NT. CHAP. III.

erected by Cosimo I, in memory of the battle of Marciano
--the Granite Column, near Ponte Santa Trinz'ta‘, was
aken from Antoninus’s Baths, at Rome, and erected at
Florence by Cosimo I, in memory of the conquest of
Siena: there is, on its summit, a ﬁgure of Justice, which
gave rise to the following proverb: “ Justice, at Florence,
is too high to be reached”———the Column near the Baptistmy,
in the Piazza del Duomo, was erected to record a miracle,
relative to the corpse of S. Zanobi, a Florentine prelate.

The bronze W'z'ld-Boar in the illercato-nuovo, is a copy, by
Pietro Tacca, of the famous antique in the Gallery de’
lVIedici. The Pedestal adorned with hassl—rz'lievz' in marhle,
which stands near the entrance of the church ofS. Lorenzo,

was done by Bandinelli; and represents Giovanni dei

Medici, father of Cosimo I, with prisoners and spoils.
The Group of Hercules killing the Centaur A'essus, which
stands near the Ponte- Vecchz'o, is by Giovanni di Bologna l l
—the Piazza del Annunzz'ata contains an equestrian Statue
of Ferdinando I. Over the Porta San-Gallo is a fresco—
painting, by Ghirlandajo; and, just beyond the gate, a
magniﬁcent trz'umphal Arch, erected in honour of the Em—
peror Francis I, when Grand-Duke of Tuscany. On the
outside of a house, near the Porta Romano, is a fresco, by
Giovanni di San Giovanni, representing the city of Flo-
rence, under the form of a woman clothed in royal robes,
and the other cities of Tuscany as females paying homage
to their queen.

The Ponte Santa Trinz‘ta‘, built by Ammannati, isre-
markably elegant.

Florence contains three theatres, the Pergola, or opera-
house, a beautiful ediﬁce, well secured from ﬁre; and ori—

(snap; m. FLORENCE. 149

ginally built after the design of Pietro Tacca—the Coco-
mero, smaller than the Pergola—and the Teatro Nuovo.

The Florentine Mosaic Work, and the Sculpture in
alabaster, of the Brothers Pisani, in the Prato, and of Bar-
tolini, in Via della Scala, are much admired. This country
likewise produces a sort of marble which splits almost like
slate; and, when polished, the variations of its yellow and
brown veins represent trees, landscapes, and ruins of old
walls and castles: several petrifactions are also found in
this neighbourhood.

A long residence at Florence is deemed injurious to the
sight; owing, perhaps, to that glare which proceeds from
the reﬂection of the sun upon white houses; and likewise to
the fogs which prevail here in winter.

This city boasts the honour of having given education
to Dante, Petrarca, Boccaccio, Corilla the celebrated Im-
provisatrz'cc, who was crowned at Rome, Americo Vespucci
(whose voyages to, and discoveries in the new world ob-
tained him the honour of calling America by his own
name), Blachiavclli, Galileo, Buonaroti, and a larger num—
ber of distinguished artists than any other place in Europe.

The Accademz'a chIa Cmsca, which has, for a length of
years, been established at Florence, is too well known to
need description: and this academy is now united with two
others, namely, the 1107 cm‘ma, and the Apaz‘zstz, under the
name of Beale Accademza F107 cm‘ma.

There are several good hotels at F lorence“ ; and the

* Il Pellz'cano, kept by Gasparini, is an excellent inn, where
dinners are better cooked and more comfortably served than at

150 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. III.

markets are constantly well stored with excellent eatables,
ﬁsh excepted; which is never fresh, but on Fridays and
Saturdays. The Florence wine is good and wholesome;
the water much otherwise, except that which comes from
Fiesole, and supplies the fountains of the Piazza-Santa
Croce, and the Palazzo-Pitti. It is remarkable, however,
that all the Florence water, when analysed, appears whole-
some; and consequently it seems probable that the noxious
quality may proceed from copper vases in which it is
drawn, and usually suffered to stand; though large glass
bottles, secured by a case of reeds, for the purpose of
holding water, might be easily met with.

The climate of Florence is cold during winter; very hot
during summer; but delightful in autumn and spring *.

I will now close this chapter with a list of the preceding
churches, palaces, &c.; as they lie near each other.

Duomo—Campanz’lc———Batfisteri0 (Ii S. Giovanni—Pa—
lazzo—Riccardi—C/zicsa (Ii S. ﬂIarco—Reale Accademz'a—
L’Oratorz'o (16110 Scalzo—Spcdale di Bani Zzzio—Porta S.
Gallo—Arm trz'mgfale—Statua (12' Ferdz'nando I, alla Piazza
dcl Anmmzz'ata—C/ziesa (11' S. Illa/Tia JIaddalena de’ Pazzi
—Casa (lei Povm‘i—Clziesa di Santa Croce—C/zz'esa di S.
Ambrogz'o—Palazzo Buonaroti—C/zz'esa (11' Santa JlIarz'a

Nudva—sua. SpedaZe—C/ziesa di S. Lm‘enzo—Libreria lVIe-

any of the other Hotels. Sbizeideiﬂ’s is an immensely large
and a. very good Hotel. The Quattri Nazioni, and the Nuot‘a
York, are likewise good Inns.

* Persons who wish to preserve health in Tuscany should be
careful never to eat sweet things made with orangezﬂuucr water,
falsely so called; it being, in this country, a distillation from
the Italian laurel leaf (the bay), which is poisonous.

. CRAP. m. FLORENCE. 151

diceo-Laurenzz'ana—Cappella Beale—Basso (11' S. Lorenzo
—Clziesa di Santa Maria Nove a—Palazzo-Corsini—
Palazzo—Strozzi—Colona dz' granito alla Piazza della Tri-
nitd—Clzz'esa della T rinz'td—Ponte della T rz'm'td—Palazzo-
Gerini — Galleria Ducale —Palazzo- Vecclzz'o — Loggia—
Fontana—Statua di Cosimo I ——-Palazzo- UZgruccioni—C/ziesa
d’Or San-Mz'clzele—L’Ercole (3‘ Nessus dz' Giovanni da' Bo-
logna——Palazzo-Mozzi—Palazzo-Pz'tti—Giardino dz" Bo-
boli—C'lzz'esa dz' S. Spirito—Clzz'esa del Carmine—Porta-
Ramona.

102 TRAVELS ON THE CON’I‘INEN'I'. CHAP. 1V.

/

CHAPTER IV.
FLORENCE.

Festa di San-Giovamri—Corso dei Barberi—Game, called
Fallow—Environs of Florence—Royal Cascz'ni—Ca-
reggi do"JIedici—Anecdote respecting the Physician of
Lorenzo il Iliagniﬂco—Pogg‘i Imperiale—Pratolino—
F z'esole—V allombrosa—Abbey of CamaldoliwConvent of
Lavernia—Charaeter of’the F [orentines—Tuscan Pea-
sentry—their behaviour at a ball—Anecdote relative to
a poor FoundlingéLaws of Leopoldo—Population g‘
Tuscany.

I CANNOT close my account of this city, without men-
tioning the ceremonies of the Fesm (Ii Sail—Giovanni, the
Patron-Saint of Florence; on the vigil of which is the
Corsa dcz' Cece/11', or chariot—race, probably an epitome of
the ancient Etruscan games; This exhibition takes place
in the Piazza of S‘. hlaria Novella. At the upper and
lower end of the Piazza are obelisks; to each of which is
fastened a cord, whose centre is held up by six poles, sup-
ported by men clothed in ancient costume. Round the
Piazza, in an amphitheatrical form, are scaffoldings, orna-
mented with rough fresco-paintings of urns, &c.; which
produce, however, a good effect: at the upper-end is the
Sovereign’s box, handsomely decorated: under the scaf-
foldings are posted horse and foot-guards; and all round
the Piazza, above the scaﬁ‘bldings, are balconies, windows,
and even house-tops, crowded with Spectators. ‘Vere the
chariots made in the ancient form this exhibition would
be far more interesting: but the carriages are modern
in point of shape, and particularly clumsy, exhibiting

can. 1v. FLORENCE. " 153

nothing like antique costume, except the habit of the cha-
rioteers.

On the morning of the Festa di S. Giovanni homage
used to be paid by all the Tuscan cities to their Prince;
but this custom is, for the present, abandoned; owing to
the pageants which represented the several cities having

been nearly destroyed by the French.

In the afternoon of this (lay is the Corso dez' Barberi; a
race performed by horses without riders; and which, from
the multitude of Spectators, the splendor of the equipages,
and the gallantlappearance of the troops who attend their
Sovereign, is an extremely gay sight. The horses have,
fastened to their bodies, little spurs, so contrived that the
quicker the animal gallops the more they run into him.
The race-ground is the longest Street at Florence; where
many of the Spectators stand, without any defence what-
soever, frequently meeting with accidents by urging the
horses on. ' Vhen these animals reach the goal, they are
stopped by a large piece of canvass, which several men hold
up: the Sovereign then announces the winning horse; and
thus ends this amusement; which is followed by a pretty
exhibition of ﬁreworks at the Palazzo-Vecchio?

The game called Pallonc, a favourite exercise at F lo-

* So universal is the rage for splendor, at this festival, that
a milliner, at whose house one of my friends lodged, absolutely
hired, for the day, at a great expense, a coach with two footmen
in laced liveries; that she might parade about the streets in
style: nay, further, this woman and her apprentices, though
generally dressed in the plainest manner possible,‘ were now
adorned with diamonds.

r—v. v’T’m 7—w-

W'ﬁ—Y— 4-w-

L H .——._.—_vvw

 

154 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. IV.

rence, also merits notice, because it was played by the an-
cient Romans; who are described as striking the/0112's with
the arm guarded, for that purpose, by a wooden shield:
the mode of playing continues precisely the same to the
present moment; and this game, like most of the ancient
exercises, is well calculated to give courage and strength.

The environs of Florence are extremely interesting.
The usual airing of the upper ranks of people is to the
Royal Farms, or Cascini; which are open to the public at
all hours: though it is deemed unwholesome to walk, ride,
or drive in these beautiful farms very early in the morning;
and equally prejudicial to remain there after sun-set.

Carr’ggi de’ﬂIedic-i, about three miles from the Porta-
San Gallo, was the favourite retreat of Lorenzo i1 JIagni-

fee; and in the hall of this villa the Platonic Society used

to assemble, and form plans for those stately ediﬁces and
patriotic institutions by which Lorenzo beneﬁted and em-
bellished his country. The house stands upon an emi-
nence, whence the ground falls gradually almost every
way; opening, on one side, to a noble view of Florence, on
another, to a boundless prospect of Val d’Arno; while, on
another, rise mountains, covered with neat farm-houses and
magniﬁcent villas; and, on another, vaults Fiesole, dig-
niﬁed with ruins of ancient Greek and Roman splendor:
and, to complete the deliciousness of the situation, cool and
refreshing breezes almost constantly blow, about noon,
from the Gulf of Spezia, and make the fortunate inhabit-
ants of Careggi unconscious of oppressive heat, even in the
dog-days :———no wonder, therefore, that the elegant and wise
Lorenzo should have called this, his favourite abode! Ca—
reggi, like the generality of Tuscan villas, is built upon
arches; and consists of an immense ground-floor, with a

can. Iv. FLORENCE. 155

spacious hall in its centre, and several surrounding rooms;
every ceiling being arched, and every apartment coo].
Above-stairs is another large hall, with a handsome suite of
rooms, terminated by a terrace: and round the third story
runs a gallery which commands a prospect so extensive
that it seems to overlook all Tuscany. On the outside of
the house are noble porticos. The water at this villa is pe-
culiarly ﬁne; owing, in some measure, to the following cir-
cumstance. When the great Lorenzo laboured under his
last illness, a famous physician of Padua was summoned to
attend him; he did so, and exerted his utmost skill; but to
no purpose—Lorenzo died !—when some of his household,
frantic with grief, met the unsuccessful physician, and threw
him down the well in the quadrangle. The dead body
was, of course, drawn up; and the well so nicely cleaned
that its water has, ever since, been super-excellent. It is
remarkable that the above-named physician, when resident
at Padua, had his nativity cast, and was told he would be
drowned: he, therefore, quitted Padua, whence he was fre—
quently compelled to go by water to Venice, and “came to
settle at Florence, as a place where water-carriage was un-
necessary; thus furnishing an example

That human foresight
In vain essays to ’scape th' unerring stroke
Of Heaven-directed Destiny!

Poggi Imperiale, about one mile from the PortaRomana,
is a royal Villa containing an admired statue of Adonis,
by Buonaroti ! and portraits of Petrarca, and Laura, by
Albert Durer. The prospects from this spot are beautiful;
and not far hence stands the Monastery of S. Matteo in Ar-
cetri, near which are vineyards that produce the celebrated
wine called Verdea.

 

 

156 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CIIAP. 1V.

Pratolino, a royal Villa about six miles from the Porta—
S. Gallo, is famous for its garden; which contains water-
works, and a statue of the Apennine sixty feet In height, by
Giovanni di Boloo'na.

On the way to Pratolino is the modern Campo-Santo of
Florence.

Fiesole, anciently F cesula’, one of the twelve great cities of
Etruria, is proudly seated, on a summit of the Apennine,
in a most enchanting situation, about three miles and a half
from the Porta—Pinti, by the lVIajano-road. Light car-
riages may go, with perfect ease and safety, so far as Ma-
jano, which is two—thirds of the way: but thence, to the
Francescan Convent, at Fiesole, the best conveyance is
a traincau; which the Peasants at Majano can always
furnish. Between the latter place and Fiesole is the Docia;
a Monastery built by Buonaroti, and deliciously situated.
The ancient Etruscan term of F 593016 is supposed to have
been destroyed by an earthquake, long before the period
when Sylla founded a colony there: the Walls of this
town, however, are in several places discoverable: and it
certainly seems evident, from the manner in which they
present themselves, that they were thrown down by some
convulsion of nature: they appear to have originally con-
sisted of large stones without cement, like the walls of
Pompeii and Paestum. Herc, likewise, are remains ofan'
Amphitheatre, built on the side of a bill, as was the Grecian
custom; the shape and size of the ediﬁce, some of the stair-
cases, seats, and caves for the wild beasts, together with the
reservoir of water which belonged to this theatre, may be
tracer *: and here, also, is an ancient Temple, now roofed,

* The Etrurians are famed for having invented Amphi—

ten AP. 1v. ' FLORENCE. ' ' 157

and made into a church. Fourteen fine columns with
-lonic capitals, the pavement, and the altar of the ancient
building still remain; though the altar has been moved
from its original situation. This temple is supposed to have
been dedicated to Bacchus. The walls of the Roman town
may, in some places, be traced; as may the pavement of the
streets, which resembles that at Pompeii. The modern town,
if it may be so called, contains a Cathedral, built in 1028,
apparently on the site of an ancient temple; and adorned
with Sculpture by Mino (la Fiesole, and Andrea Ferrucci,
F iesolano; and likewise with a picture of the martyrdom
of S. Thomas, by Volterrano: here, also, are, an episcopal
Palace, 3 Seminary, and a Francescan Convent, which last
stands on the spot called Rocca dei Fiesolani.

Vallombrosa, about fourteen miles distant from Fiesole,
is well worth notice; not only because it has been immor-
talized by Milton, but likewise on account of the beauty of
the country, and the noble Certosa of Vallombrosa which
still contains ﬁne paintings; though the ﬁnest were, I
believe, removed when theConvent was suppressed. Val-
lombrosa itself has suffered very little from being under the
dominion of France: but the Certosa is not yet re-esta—
blished. ' Mules are the necessary conveyance for persons
who cannot walk; there being no carriage-road to the
Convent.

Lovers of wild scenery would be gratiﬁed by proceeding

theatres; together with the games called Curuli, and Certami
dei Cavalli .- and about the year of Rome 400, comedians were
invited, by the Romans, to come from Etruria, and perform
plays, for the ﬁrst time, at Rome: the Romans thinking these
new games might appease the gods, and stop a then raging
sickness.

158 TRAVELS on THE CONTINENT. anp. 1v.

from Vallombrosa to the Abbey of Camaldolz', about thirty-
153. miles from Florence; and thence to the Convent qua-
verm'a (Mons Alvernus), about ﬁmrteen miles further. The
former of these Convents was suppressed by the French;
who cut down much of the ﬁne wood belonging to it: now,
however, this Convent is re-established; though its inha—
bitants, about thirty in number, are too poor to entertain
visiters gratis; and therefore Travellers, after eating or
sleeping under its roof, usually make a present to the com-
munity. The convent of Lavernia never was disturbed by
the French; and contains, at present, about sixty Capu—
chins.

The modern Florentines, like their Etrurian ancestors,
are fond of learning, arts, and sciences; and, what is more
estimable and endearing to Foreigners, they are, generally
speaking, good-humoured, warm-hearted and friendly; such,
at least, have I found them, for nine successive years. The
Tuscan peasantry, considered collectively, are pure in their
morals and pastoral in their manner of living; and the pe-
culiar comeliness of both sexes is very striking, especially
in that ’tract of country which extends from Florence to
Pescia: but it is only among the peasantry that one can
form ajust idea of Italian beauty; and perhaps I might add,
it is only among the peasantry one can form a. just idea of
the Italian character; inhabitants of populous cities being
nearly alike, whether in London, Paris, Vienna, Florence,
or Rome. The men are tall, robust, ﬁnely proportioned,
and endowed with that entire self—possession which inspires
respect, and perhaps a more favourable opinion of them than
they really deserve. The women are of a middle stature;
and, were it not for bad stays, would be well made. They have
large, languishing black eyes, accompanied by that expres-
sive brow which constitutes the most remarkable and cap-

CHAP. 1v. FLORENCE. 159

tivating part of an Italian countenance. Their manners
are uncommonly graceful; and, instead of curtsying, they
gently bow their bodies, and kiss the hand of a superior; a
practice common, indeed, throughout Italy. When two
young people agree to marry, the banns are published three
times in a parish church; after which, they receive the nup-
tial benediction. The bride’s portion is paid three days
before marriage, one half in wearing-apparel, and the other
half in money; which the bridegroom usually expends in
purchasing jewels for his lady; which consist of a pearl
necklace, cross and ear-rings, frequently intermixed with
rubies; and worth from twenty to thirty pounds sterlinO‘:
these jewels being considered by the man as the woman’s
exclusive property: indeed, money so invested may be
looked upon as placed in a bank; while the interest received
is that high gratiﬁcation which the woman derives from ex-
hibiting her ornaments on gala-days; and these ornaments
continue in the family for ages, unless the pressing call of
necessity compel them to be pawned, or sold. When the
Spam is taken in labour, the husband, after procuring me-
dical help, deems it his next duty to get some of what is
termed the life-giving plant (aleaz‘rz'ce the peasants call it),
which he places on her bed; and without which, he believes
his child cannot be born. This custom is derived from the
Greeks *. About a fortnight after the birth of the infant,
its parents give what they denominate a seaponata, or
christening dinner-r, to their relations; on which occasion
every guest brings a present, as was the practice at Athens;
and the dinner is served dish by dish, likewise an ancient
custom. On the husband’s demise the eldest son becomes

* Some of the Grecian ladies used to hold palm-branches in
their hands, in order to procure an easy delivery.

Jr Children in Roman-Catholic countries. however, are chris-
tened immediately after their birth.

 

5. Cut “A ~W¢mhwmmw

m

160 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHA'P. 1V,

heir-at-law; but is obliged to portion his sisters; and either
maintain his mother, or return her dower*: all his relations
frequently live with him: but the largeness of the family
creates no confusion; there being a superior over the men,
and another over the women, who allot, to every person,
their business ; which is thus kept distinct. A Tuscan farmer
shares equally with his lord in the produce of an estate; and
the owner even provides seeds, plants, manure, implements
of husbandry, in short whatever may be requisite for the cul-
tivation of the land. The upper class of farmers usually
possess a horse and a market-cart, a waggon, and a pair of
large dove-coloured oxen, who draw the waggon and the
plough, whose colour seldom, if ever, varies throughout
Italy, and whose beauty is as remarkable as that of their
masters. The female peasants, beside working in the vine-
yards almost equally hard with the men, often earn money
by keeping poultry, and sometimes one or two lambs; whose
ﬂeecy coats the children decorate, on the Festa di San Gio-
vanni, with scarlet ribbons tied in fantastic knots: and by

the aid of money thus acquired wearing-apparel, and other
necessaries, are purchased. Shoes and stockings are deemed
superﬂuous, and merely ornamental, even by the women;
who carry them in baskets on their heads, till they reach a

town; when these seemingly embarrassing decorations are

put on: for the Contadina is as vain of her appearance as

* An elder son, among the Greeks, was obliged either to main-
tain his mother, or return her dower : hence Telemachus, though
he sustained 'great losses By means of Penelope‘s suitors, thinks
it imprudent to send her home to her father 5 because that could
not be done without returning her (lower—

“ I could not now repay so great a sum
To the old Man, should I dismiss her home
Against her will."

 

HOMER‘s ODYSSEY.

crup. 1v. FLORENCE. 161

the Duma nobile; and, no wonder—since the Arcadian
dresses and lovely countenances of- these peasants arrest
every eye, and show them, perhaps too plainly, how strong
are their powers of attraction *. The phraseology of the F10-
rentine peasants is wonderfully elegant: but the most re-
markable quality of these people is their industry; for,
during the hottest weather, they toil all day without sleep;
and seldom retire early to rest: yet, notwithstanding this
fatigue, they live almost entirely upon bread, fruit, pulse,
and the common wine of the country: however, though their
diet is light, and their bodily exertions are almost perpetual,
they commonly attain old age; especially in the neighbour-
hood of F iesole.

Ely Family and I about twenty years ago spent one summer
at Careggi de’ Medici, and another at Careggi di Riecardi;
and during our residence in the latter villa, we invited all
the surrounding peasants to a'dance. Our ball-room was a
lofty apartment sixty feet by thirty; and in the centre of the
ceiling hung a lustre, composed of such light materials that
every puff of wind gave it motion: indeed it had the appear-
ance of being continually turned round by an invisible hand:
this lustre we ﬁlled with candles; and the walls, which were
adorned with full—length portraits of the Medici-Princes, we
likewise decorated with festoons of vines, olive-branches,
flowers, and lamps: so that the whole apartment resembled
an illuminated arbour. At sun-set, on the appointed day,
our guests appeared altogether upon a lawn leading to the
villa, preceded by their own band of music: and no sooner
did this procession reach our hall-door, than the musicians

*- I am sorry to say that the ancient costume of the Tuscan
peasants is less frequently worn than it used to be tWenty years
since.

M

162 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. It.

struck up a lively tune; while the dancers, as they entered,
formed a quadrille, which would have been applauded on
any opera-stage. When this dance was ﬁnished, the female
peasants advanced, in couples, to the top of the hall, where
we were seated, paying their compliments to us with as much
ease and‘elegance as if they had been educated in a court:
and then commencing another quadrille, different from, but
quite as pretty as the ﬁrst. With a succession of these
dances we were amused till supper; after which, our visiters,
who had been regaled with punch, a liquor they particu-
larly relish, came once more to us; when the women re-
turned thanks for their entertainment, kissed our hands, and
then, presenting their own to their partners, bowed and
retired.

I cannot dismiss the subject of Tuscan peasantry, without
mentioning another circumstance, which may perhaps serve
to show the grateful and delicate turn of mind possessed by
these people.

One day, as we were walking near Careggi, we observed
a girl, apparently about fourteen years of age, watching a
ﬂock of goats, and at the same time spinning with great
diligence: her tattered garments bespoke extreme poverty;
but her air was peculiarly digniﬁed, and her countenance so
interesting that we were irresistibly impelled to present her
with a few crazie. Joy and gratitude instantly animated her
fine eyes while she exclaimed; “ Never,.till this moment,
was I worth so much money l” — Struck by her words and
manner, we inquired her name; likewise asking where her

)

parents lived? “ My name is Teresa ;’ replied she; “ but,
alas, I have no parents.” “ N0 parentsl—who, then,
takes care of you?”—-“ The Madonna.” “ But who

brought you up ?” “ A peasant in Vallombrosa: I was

CHAP. Iv. FLORENCE. 163

her nurse-child; and I have heard her say my parents de-
livered me into her care; but that she did not know their
name. As I grew up she almost starved me; and, what‘was
worse, beat me so cruelly that, at length, I ran away from
her.” “ And where do you live now?” “ Yonder, in the
plain ;” (pointing to Val d’Arno); “ I have fortunately met
with a mistress who feeds me, and lets me sleep in her barn:
this is her ﬂock.” “ And are. you happy now?” “ 0 yes !’
very happy. At ﬁrst, to be sure, ’twas lonesome sleeping
in the barn by myself; ’tis so far from the house; but I am
used to it now: and indeed I have not much time for sleep;
being obliged to work at night when I come home; and I
always go out with the goats at day-break: however, I do
very well; for I get plenty of bread and grapes; and my
mistress never beats me;” After learning thus much, we
presented our new acquaintance with a paul—but to describe
the ecstacy this gift produced is impossible.—“ Now,” cried
she (when a ﬂood of tears had enabled her to speak), “ now
I can purchase a corona *—now I can go to mass, and peti-
tion the hIadonna to preserve my kind benefactresses!”

On taking leave of this interesting creature, we desired
she would sometimes pay us a visit: our invitation, however,
was only answered by a bow: and, to our regret, we neither
saw nor heard of her again, till the day before our departure
from Careggi ; when it appeared that, immediately after her
interview with us, she had been attacked by the small-pox,
and was only just recovered.

During the next summer although we again resided in the
same neighbourhood, we, for a considerable time,:saw nothing

’* \Vithout a corona she informed us that she COUld not be
permitted to go to mass.
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A ”w mynywua aw: ‘mmim v2.9.1.1...“

164‘ TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAF. IV.

of Teresa. One day, however, we observed a beautiful
white goat browsing near our house; and, on going out,
perceived our Protcgée with her whole ﬂock. We now
inquired, almost angrily, why she had not visited us before?
“ I was fearful of obtruding;” replied the scrupulous girl;
“ but I have watched you at a distance, ladies, ever since
your return; and I could not forbear coming rather nearer
than usual tO-day, in the hope that you might notice me.”
We gave her a scudo; and again desired she would sometimes
call upon us. “ No, ladies,” replied she, “ I am not pro-
perly dressed to enter your doors; but, with the scudo you
have kindly given me, I shall immediately purchase a stock
of ﬂax; and then should the Madonna bless me with health
to work hard, I may soon be able, by selling my thread, to
buy decent apparel, and wait upon you, clothed with the
fruits of your bounty.”—And, indeed, it was not long ere we
had the pleasure of seeing her come to visit us, neatly dressed,

and exhibiting a picture of content.

According to the excellent laws of the Emperor Leopoldo,
father to the present Grand—Duke of Tuscany, no man can
be imprisoned for debt; though creditors have power to seize
the property of their debtors; and no offence is punishable
with death, though murderers are condemned to perpetual
labour as galley-slaves: and to these, and many other equally
wise regulations, made by Leopoldo, are attributable the al-
most total exemption from robbery and murder which this
country has long enjoyed; and the increase to its population
of two hundred thousand; an astonishing difference; as the

original number Was only one million.

16.3

CHAPTER V.
PISA.

Situation, supposed origin, and present appearance of Pisa
—— Duomo — Baptistery— Campanile —— Ca mpo-Santo—
Sonnet to Grief—Chiesa de’ Cavalieri—Palazzo de’ C -
Z'alieri—Chiesa dz' San-Fredriano—di S. Anna—di S.
Caterina—(Ii S. Paolo all’ Orto— di S. F raneeseo—Church
belonging to the Conservatorio di S. Silvestro—Chiesa
d2 S. .Matteo—di S. Pierino~di S. Jliehele in Borge—
di S. Vito—del/a Spina—di S. Andrea in Chinseca—di
S. JIartino—Palazzo—Lanframhi — Tom'm' — Lanfre-
ducci — Casa-Jlecherinz' — Palazzo—Seta— Royal Palace
—Hosp-itals, <S~c.—Unz'zrersitg—Torre della Specola—
Botanic Garden — Ancient Vapour-Bath -— Suppressed
Church of S. F dice—Subterranean part of S. [Michele
in Barge—Aqueduct (f Caldacolli—Jllodern Baths—
]lIountaz'n of S. Giuliano—Jlodern Aqueduct—Canal—
Rogal F arm—Character of the Pisans—Hotels—Foun-
tain- IVater— Theatre—Bridg‘es—Battle of the Bridge—
Illumination in honour of S. Ranieri —— Carnival —
Climate.

As the road I took, from Florence through La Scala to
Pisa, exhibits no particular objects of interest, I shall begin
this chapter with an account of the last-named town.

Pisa, one of the twelve great cities of Etruria, stands
on the banks of the Arno, forty-eight miles distant from
Florence, fourteen from Leghorn, and six from the Medi-
terranean sea. Strabo says, it was built by the Arcadians,

 

166 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v.

soon after the Trojan war: while other authors suppose it
yet more ancient: and, in modern times, it has been the
capital of a great republic, whose conquering ﬂeet was a
terror to the Saracens, a scourge to the African corsairs,
and a check upon the ambition of Genoa: and with innu-
merable spoils, taken from the ﬁrst-mentioned people, most
of the present buildings at Pisa were erected. This city
is, next to Florence, the largest in Tuscany; but though
its walls are nearly ﬁve miles in circumference, they do not,
at the present moment, contain above 18,000 persons.
The streets are wide, straight, and excellently paved; the
bridges elegant; the quay is one of the ﬁnest in Europe;
and the situation of the Cathedral, Baptistery, Leaning
Tower, and Campo—Santo, renders these majestic ediﬁces
particularly striking and beautiful. The Arno traverses
the city in the form of a crescent; and divides it nearly into
two equal parts.

The Duomo, a Gothic structure, in the shape of a Latin
cross, built (as I have already mentioned) in the eleventh
century, under the guidance of Buschetto, a Grecian, is
remarkable for the richness and variety of its marbles; and,
next to the cathedrals of Milan and Siena, perhaps the
ﬁnest church of its kind in Italy. The eastern front is
ornamented with an immense number of columns; some of
which are Grecian marble, others oriental granite, and one
is porphyry: among these the most striking are six magni-
ﬁcent columns which adorn the three celebrated modern
bronze-doors; and are said to be either Grecian or Egyp-
tian workmanship. The modern doors were designed by
Giovanni di Bologna, and cast by P. D. Portigiani: that
in the centre, deemed the least beautiful of the three, repre-
sents the life of the Madonna; and is surrounded by ﬁgures
of Saints and Prophets, and embellished with an elegant

CHAP. v. PISA. ‘ 167

border of foliage, fruits and ﬂowers. Those on the right
and left represent the life of our Saviour, beginning with
his birth, and ending with his crucifixion; they are likewise
embellished with a border, nearly similar to the one already
described. The mosaics, in the arches above the doors,
were done by Filippo di Lorenzo Palidini. The architrave
of the eastern door was taken from an ancient ediﬁce; and
the bronze-door which fronts the Campanile, is highly
esteemed for its antiquity; though not remarkable for merit
of any other kind. The inside of the church is adorned
with seventy-four lofty columns; sixty-two of which are
oriental granite; and the rest rare marble: and although
most of these columns were originally unequal in height,
and consequently ill-adapted to match, yet so well has the
architect disposed of and added to them, that even the most
observing eye perceives no want of symmetry. Twelve
altars, designed by Buonaroti and executed by Stagio
Stagi, adorn the walls of this ediﬁce. The high-altar is
magnificently decorated with lapis lazuli *, verde antique,
brocatello di Spagna, bronze gilt, giallo di Siena, &c.: the
tribuna contains two porphyry columns, whose capitals and
bases are peculiarly elegant; that near the episcopal throne
is embellished with the best works of Stagi, and bears a
bronze angel greatly admired. The decorations of the
opposite column were executed by Foggini: and the group
of angels on a golden ﬁeld, which adorn the great arch, by
Ghirlandajo, the master of Buonaroti. The seats for the
canons (a sort of wooden mosaic introduced into Tuscany
in the time of Brunellesco) merit notice. The four pictures
of S. Peter, S. John, S. Margherita and S. Caterina, are
by Andrea del Sarto; and the mosaic on the ceiling, repre-

* Lapis lazuli is said to be the Cganwum of the ancients;
and Great ’l‘artary is supposed to produce the best.

 

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168 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARV.

senting our Saviour, the Madonna and S. John, was
executed by Gaddo Gaddi and other artists, in 1321. On
the right side of the great cross is the Chapel of S. Ranieri;
whose sarcophagus rests on a pedestal of red Egyptian
granite, adorned with other valuable marbles: the sarco-
phagus is of verde di Polcevera, the altar of giallo di Siena,
and the balustrades are of inlaid marble: the whole was
executed by B. G. Foggini, at the command of Cosimo III,
in honour of S. Ranieri, who died in 1161, and was pro-
claimed, by the I’isans, their Patron—Saint. This chapel
contains a mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, representing the lVIa-
donna enthroned and attended by angels; and an antique
Grecian, or Roman statue, said to represent Mars, though
now called S. Efeso. On the left side of the great cross is
the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament; which contains a
ciborio of massy silver, and an altar adorned with silver
bassi-rz'lz'evz'; both well executed, after the designs of Fog-
gini: the balustrades are of inlaid marble; and here, like-
wise, is a mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, representing the
Annunciation. At the bottom of the church, over the great
entrance-doors, is a beautiful Bar, or gallery, ornamented
with bassi-rz'lz'cz‘i, by Giovanni, the son of Niccolo Pisano;
and it is much to be lamented that this ﬁne work, which
originally adorned a pulpit, is now placed so high, that its
merits are scarcely discernible: it represents scriptural his-
tories. The centre-aisle contains a pulpit of inlaid marble,
supported by two small columns; the one porphyry, the
other oriental brocatello; and the ﬁrst is deemed particu—
larly curious, from consisting of various pieces so well joined
that it may be properly denominated Breccia pozfrea : the
second is deemed 'the ﬁnest specimen of its sort in Italy.
The pillar, on the right, which supports the cupola, is
adorned with a picture by I“. B. Gozzoli, who lived in the
ﬁfteenth century; it represents S. Tounnaso d’Aquino dis-

CIIAP. v. PISA. 169

puting with an assembly of doctors: and the pillar, on the left,
is adorned with a picture of S. Agnes, by Andrea dcl Sarto !
Among the pictures which I have not already mentioned,
those best worth notice are—the Madonna and our Saviour
surrounded with saints, attributed to Pierino del Vaga and
G. A. Sogliani—S. Ranieri putting on the religious habit,
by Cav. B. Luti—the death of S. Ranieri, by Cav. G.
hlelani, who ﬂourished in the seventeenth century—the
three hIaries at the foot of the cross, by G. Bilivert—the
adoration of the serpent in the wilderness, by O. Riminaldi
—-Habakkuk borne by an angel, by Bilivert—Judith giving
the head of Holofernes to her servant, and the h’ladonna,
our Saviour and saints, originally painted by Passignano,
and added to, by Tempesti—God the Father, Raphael, and
other angels, by Salembini—and the institution of the
Lord’s Supper, by Tempesti. The bronze Grifﬁn on the
top of the Duomo is a curious antique z'ntaglz'o, supposed to
be Egyptian workmanship.

The Baptistery, a German-Gothic structure, erected (as
has been already mentioned) by Diotisalvi, in the 'twelfth
century, is an octagon of white marble; whose principal
entrance is embellished with two large and two small
columns, similar to those which adorn the great doors of
the Duomo.

The inside of this ediﬁce resembles an ancient temple.
Twelve arches, supported by eight vast columns of Sardi-
nian granite and four pilasters of white marble, serve as the
base to a second row of pilasters, on which rests the cupola.
The capitals, both of pillars and pilasters, are antique. The
Font, elevated on three steps of beautiful marble, is adorned
with z'm‘aglz' and mosaics, so well executed that they appear
to have been done long before the building. On the margin

170 TRAVELS ON THE CONTIN'ENT. CHAP. v

are four places for the immersion of infants; and, in the
centre, is a large basin for the immersion of adults: this
practice of immersion, however, has been abandoned since
the thirteenth century. The Pulpit, one of Niccolo Pisano’s
best works, is supported by nine columns of precious marble,
and ornamented with bassz- 22'lz'ev2, formed out of oriental
alabaster and Parian marble. The ﬁrst piece represents the
birth of our Saviour—the second, the adoration of the
Magi—the third, the Presentation in the Temple—the
fourth, the Cruciﬁxion (much inferior to the rest)—the ﬁfth,
the last Judgment. This Baptistery was ﬁnished in ] 153 ;
at which period Pisa is said to have been so populous that
a voluntary contribution of one ﬂorin, from every family,
sufﬁced to pay for this noble ediﬁce *.

T/ze Campanile, or Leaning Tower, begun by Guglielmo,
a German, and Bonnano, Pisano, about the year 1174, is
of a circular form, nearly 190 feet in height, and declining
above 13 feet from its perpendicular. This beautiful ediﬁce
consists of eight stories; adorned with two hundred and
seven columns of granite and other marbles; many of
which have evidently been taken from ancient buildings.
According to the opinion of the most respectable writers, it
appears that this tower originally was straight; though some
accidental cause, such as an earthquake, the great ﬁre of
Pisa, or the natural looseness of the soil, has produced its
present extraordinary inclination: and in that part of the
Campo—Santo where the life of S. Ranieri is painted, we
see this now leaning tower perfectly upright, and consisting

* Pisa, at the period above-mentioned, was supposed to con-
tain 13,400 families; and, reckoning five persons to each fa-
mily, the number of inhabitants will amount to 67,000— but
the population of this city, during its most flourishing state, is
said to have amounted to 150,000.

CHAP. v. PISA. 171

of seven stories only: may not, therefore, the eighth story,
which rather inclines on the contrary side to the others,
have been added in latter times as a balance to prevent the
whole ediﬁce from falling? The stairs leading up to the
summit of this tower are easy of ascent ; and the view from
the eighth gallery is very extensive.

T he Campo-Santo, or ancient burial-ground, the most
beautiful ediﬁce at Pisa, and unique in its kind, is a vast
rectangle, surrounded by sixty-two light and elegant Gothic
arcades of white marble, and paved with the same. Arch-
bishop Ubaldo Lanfranci, who was contemporary with
Richard Cwur—de-Zz'on, and his brother warrior in the Holy
Land, brought to Pisa a large quantity of earth from
Mount-Calvary, and deposited it on the spot round which
the walls of the Campo-Santo are now erected: he is, there-
fore, supposed to have given the ﬁrst idea of this ediﬁce in
1200; and, the present structure, eighteen years afterward,
was commenced under the direction of Giovanni, Pisano,
who ﬁnished it in 1283. The statues over the principal
door are by Giovanni, Pisano; they stand in a kind of
temple; and, among them, is the sculptor himself, kneeling
to the hIadonna. The sarcophagi under the arcades are
chieﬂy of Parian marble. Here is the Tomb of the Coun-
tess Beatrice, who died in 1113, and was mother to the
celebrated Countess Matilda, the last descendant from the
Counts of Tuscany. On this Sarcophagus is represented,
in basso-rz'lievo, the chase of NIeleager, according to some
opinions, and the story of Phaedra and Hippolitus, according
to others; however, be this as it may, the merit of the work
proves it an ancient production, applied, in latter ages, to
its present use: and it is supposed that this sarcophagus
was the model from which Niccolo, Pisano, and his son
used to study. Here, likewise, is an ancient Vase, beauti-

172 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. anp. v,

fully embellished with bassi-rz'lievi', representing Bacchana—
lian mysteries; and which seems to be one of the vessels that
were employed by the Greeks and Romans in their religious
ceremonies. Round the walls are fresco-paintings of the
fourteenth and ﬁfteenth centur '; which, however deﬁcient
in many respects, cannot but yield pleasure to those persons
who wish, on their entrance into Italy, to view the works of
the Revivers of an art afterward brought to exquisite per—
fection. In the first division of the arcade. on the western
wall, are six large pictures, representing the life of S. Ra—
nieri; the three upper ones being by Simone Memmi, the
three under ones, by Antonio, called Veneziano; and they
particularly merit notice on account of the costume ac—
curately preserved throughout them all; and likewise be-
cause they show how ships were armed and rigged in the
days of S. Ranieri. In one of these pictures is the Cam-
panile: they all are supposed to have been begun in 1300.
The second division contains six paintings representing the
life and death of Saints Efeso and Potito, done by Spinello
Spinelli, Aretino, about the year 1400. The third division
contains six paintings representing the history of Job, by
Giotto; so injured, however, by the hand of time, that it is
difﬁcult to distinguish them; although, in 1623, they were
retouched by Maruscelli. The other paintings of this
arcade are said to have been done by Nelli di Vanni,
Pisano. The two ﬁrst pictures in the second arcade re—
present the history of Esther, by Ghirlandajo; retouched,
however, by Aurelio, or Baccio Lomi. The second division
of this arcade contains the history of Judith; which is
modern, ill—done, and damaged. The ﬁrst division of the
northern arcade contains four pictures, representing the
Creation, by Buffahnacco, who ﬂourished in the beginning
of the fourteenth century. The other paintings which
adorn this arcade (those over the doors of the chapels

CHAP. v. PISA. ' 173

excepted) represent the principal events of the book of
Genesis; and were begun by B. Gozzoli in 1484‘, and
ﬁnished in the short space of two years. The ﬁrst of
these numerous pictures‘ contains the famous V vgognosa di
Campo-Santo; and over the chapel-door is the adoration
of the Magi, by which work Gozzoli established his re-
putation among the Pisans, and prevailed with them to
employ him in painting their Campo—Santo; not merely
on account of the general merit of the picture, but because
it exhibited an excellent likeness of his mistress, a Pisan
girl, whom he drew, to display his imitative powers. Over
the same door is the Annunciation, attributed to Stefano,
Fiorentino: and the ﬁfth lower picture from this, is par—
ticularly interesting, as it contains several portraits of illus-
trious men, and among them that of Lorenzo de’ Medici.
Over the door of the second chapel is the coronation of
the ‘Madonna, by Taddeo Bartoli; and in the ﬁfth lower
picture, beyond this chapel, are portraits of other illustrious
men; among whom the painter has placed himself; though
his ﬁgure is almost totally obliterated. These works, by
Gozzoli, are, generally speaking, the best preserved of any
in the Campo-Santo. The paintings of the eastern arcade,
so far as the chapel-door, are by Zaccaria Rondinosi,
Pisano; and were executed in 1666: they represent the
history of King Ozia, and Balteshazzar’s feast. , Beyond
the chapel are three paintings, said to be by Buffalmacco,
and representing the cruciﬁxion, resurrection, and ascen—
sion of our Saviour. The next picture which is in that
part of the southern arcade not already described, re—
presents the triumphs of Death; and was done by Andrea
Orcagna, who ﬂourished in the middle of the fourteenth
century: it contains several portraits. The second large

picture, by the same master, is the universal Judgment: in

 

 

174: TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v.

which Solomon is represented as dubious whether he may
go to Heaven or Hell. The next picture, or rather a com—
partment of the last, represents Dante’s Inferno ,- and was
painted by Bernardo Orcagna, brother to Andrea; and re—
stored by Sollazino, who ﬂourished about the year 1530.
The fourth picture represents the history of the Anchorites,
by Laurati, the pupil of Giotto: and over the great door is
an Assumption, by Simone Memmi, one of the best pre-
served pictures of the fourteenth century.

It is remarkable that, among the immense number of
countenances contained in these paintings, we scarcely ﬁnd
two alike. The faces, generally speaking, are well done;
the ﬁgures and drapery stiff; the perspective is bad; and
the borders, which form the several compartments, are par—
ticularly elegant. Among the monuments is that of Count
Algarotti, erected by Frederick the Great, of Prussia; but
remarkable only for the beauty of the marble: near this is
the sarcophagus of G. F. Vegio, by Taddo; and, in the
eastern arcade, is the monument of Filippo Decio; who

had it erected in his life—time; givmg, as a reason, “ That
he feared posterity would not have done it for him.” This
monument is by Stagio Stagi! Under Orcagna’s picture
of the triumphs of Death stands an ancient Roman l\Iile-
stone; which was discovered on the Via—Emilia, near Ri-
mazzano, and thence transported to Pisa: and on each side
of this column is an inscription, the one to the memory of
Lucius, and the other to that of Caius Caesar, the adopted
sons of Augustus. Six hundred ancient families of Pisa,
beside many illustrious characters of different nations, are

said to be interred in the Campo—Santo.

'The solemn grandeur of this burial-ground, prompted

CRAP. v. PISA. 175

me to compose the following sonnet to Grief; which I am
tempted to insert, because it is descriptive of the Campo-
Santo.

STRUCTURE unmatch'd! which braves the lapse of Time;

Fit cradle the reviving arts to rear!

Light, as the paper Nautilus, appear
Thy arches, of Pisano’s works the prime.

Fam’d Campo-Santo! where the mighty Dead,

Of elder days, in Parian marble sleep,

Say, who is she, that ever seems to keep
IVatch o'er thy precincts; save when mortal tread
Invades the awful stillness of the scene?

Then, struggling to suppress the heavy sigh,

And brushing the big tear-drop from her eye,
She veils her face—and glides yon tombs between.
’Tis GRIEF l—by that thick veil the Maid I know,
Moisten‘d with tears which never cease to ﬂow.

The Clzz'esa de’ Cavalierz', or Church of S. Stefano, from
whom the square in which it stands is named, was built by
Vasari: the high-altar, by Foggini, is of porphyry; so
likewise is the sarcophagus above it, reputed to contain the
bones of S. Stephen; and the bronze-chair, suspended over
the sarcophagus, was presented by Innocent XII, to Co-
simo III. On the ceiling are six paintings relative to the
Knights of S. Stefano; the two ﬁrst by Ligozzi, the two
next by Empoli, the fifth, by Cigoli, and the last, which
represents Cosimo I, receiving the habit of the order, is by
Cristofano Allori. On the walls and ceiling are trophies
taken from the Inﬁdels, by the Knights of S. Stefano.
This church contains a very curious organ; reputed to be
the ﬁnest in Europe; a nativity, by Bronzino; and a
silver cruciﬁx, by Algardi.

 

 

,c.-vz:

176 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. V.

The Palermo (lc‘wCavalim'i, situated in the same square,
was built by Vasari; and over the principal entrance are
busts of six Grand Blasters of the order, beginning with
Cosimo I, who instituted these Knights, to defend the
Mediterranean against Turks and Corsairs by means of
galleys, on board of which every Knight was compelled to
serve three years, ere he could be finally received into the
order: but when peace was established between Barbary
and the Tuscans, the Knights and their galleys became use-
less; insomuch that the latter were, in 1755, all broken up
and destroyed.

Near to the Palazzo (le’ Cavalieri, there formerly stood
a building, now totally demolished, which was called the
Tower of Famine, from having been the prison of Ugo—
lino *.

T/zc Citiesa (11' S. Fredriano, which is supported" by
columns of oriental granite with ancient capitals, contains a
painting of our Saviour on the cross, done, in the thirteenth
century, by Giunto, Pisano.

T/zc Chicsa (Ii S. Anna contains a curious representation
of our Saviour on the cross, wrought in wood, on the taber—

* Count Ugolino, a Pisan Nobleman, entered into a Con-
Spiracy with Archbishop Rugiero, to depose the governor of
Pisa ; in which enterprize, having succeeded, Ugolino assumed
the government of the city: but the Archbishop, jealous of his
power, incited the people against him; attacked his palace,
seized his person, and cast him and his family into prison : till,
at length, refusing them food, and throwing the key of their
dungeon into the Arno, he left them, in this dreadful situation,
to be starved to death!

Sec DANTu's Ixrmrxo, Canto XXXIII.

CRAP. v. PISA. 177

nacle of the high—altar: and this wooden sculpture, of which
there are several specimens in Pisa, is attributed to G.
GiaCCObi, Pisano.

T/ze Clzz'esa (12' S. Caterina contains a curious picture, by
F. Traini, one of the most skilful disciples of Andrea.
Orcagna: this picture represents S. Thomas surrounded
by the fathers of the church, among whom is a portrait of
Urban VI: at the feet of these are several philosophers
and heretics, with their works torn in pieces; and, what
seems very incongruous, S. Thomas himself is placed be-
tween Plato and Aristotle, who are presenting him with
their literary productions.

The Clzz'esa di S. Paolo all’ Orto contains a head of our
Saviour, which appears to have been done in the twelfth
century.

The Chiesa (12' S. Francesco, supposed to have been built
after the designs of Niccolo, Pisano, contains a Chapel de-
dicated to S. Antonio da Padova, and painted by Salembini
and Maruscelli—a Chapel painted by Passignano ; together
with 3 Madonna and Child, said to have been done in the
fourteenth century—another Chapel (near the Sacristy) the
paintings in which are attributed to Spinello, Aretino, who
likewise did the large picture over the Sacristy—door—a
picture, in the Sacristy, by Giotto, of S. Francesco re—
ceiving the Elect: and, in the Sacristy_cl1apel, the Ma-
donna and saints, painted in 1395, by T. Bartoli. In the
Cloister to the right of the little steps which lead into the
church, the bones of Ugolino, his sons, and nephews, are,
according to tradition, deposited.

T he C/mrc/z belonging to {/10 Consm'vaz’orio (12' S. Sz'lvestro
N

 

 

178 . TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.V.

contains two antique paintings, by Guidotti ; and a small
basso-rz'lz'cvo, in terra cotta, attributed to Luca della Robbia,
the inventor of painting upon glass.

The C/zz'csa (Ii S. Illattm, built by the brothers Melani, is
remarkable for the fresco-paintings of those artists, which
are so skilfully managed as to make the roof appear won-
derfully higher than it really is.

Tim C'I’zicsa di S.. Picrz'no, supposed ’to have been an
ancient heathen temple, contains a Madonna, painted on
the wall, and a crucifix, by Giunto, Pisano. The orna-
ments on the outside of the great door are ancient and
beautiful; the pavement is of pictri duri; and the ediﬁce
stands on an ancient Bone—house, which contains two sar-
cophagi of Parian marble, together with paintings, in the
style of those which adorn the Campo-Santo.

The C/zz'csa (Ii S. Illiclzclc 2'11 Beige, said to have been
built before the eleventh century, by Guglielmo, Pisano, is
incrusted with eerulean marble, supported by ancient co—
lumns of granitello, and adorned with a marble crucifix,
wrought by Niccolo, Pisano, and originally placed in the
Campo—Santo. The Madonna, under this cruciﬁx, is sup-
posed to be one of the most ancient paintings in Pisa. The
cupola, the upper-nave, the vision of S. Romualdo, the ex—
pedition to Majorca and Minorca, and the institution of the
Foundling Hospital, are all painted by Guidotti.

The Chicsa (11' S. Vito, or, more properly speaking, the
Cappella di S. Ranieri, contains a fresco representing the
death of the Saint, and executed, not many years since, by
Tempesti, in his best manner. The surrounding archi-
tectural ornaments are by Ciot’fo.

CHAP. v. PISA. ‘ 179

Tire Citiesa della Spiiza exhibits monuments of the an-
cient Pisan school of sculpture, namely, the hIadonna, our
Saviour, S. John and S. Peter, by Nino, Pisano, one of the
Revivers of the art; two ﬁgures attributed to Moschino;
and a half-length Madonna, by Nino.

T 126 Clzziesa di S. Andrea in C/zz'nseca contains a valuable
monument of the Greco—Pisano school, namely, our Saviour
on the cross; which appears to have been done in the
thirteenth century.

The C/zz'esa (12' S. Martino contains a cruciﬁx, by Giunta,

Pisano *.

T he Palazzo—Lan/i‘ancizz‘, on that side of the Arno called
Part3 di mezzo—giomo, was built after the design of Buo-
naroti.

T he Palazzo-Tonini contains two paintings, in fresco,
from Tasso’s Gerusalemmo, begun by Melani, and ﬁnished
by Tommasi, his scholar.

T/ze Palazzo-Lanﬁ'educcz', which is incrusted with statuary
marble, has a chain, and these words, over the door; “ Alla
gimvzata”——many tales are told in consequence; but none
of them seem sufﬁciently authenticated to be worth re-
lating. This palace contains a celebrated picture, by
Guido, the subject of which is, sacred and profane Love,
represented by two boys: perhaps the subject of this picture
may have been taken from Plato, who says, there are two

* The Churches at Pisa contain many Paintings, by old
Tuscan masters, which I have not mentioned; and a minute
description of them may be found in Morrona's History of
Pisa.

N 2

 

180 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. crmp. v.

Cupids, as different as day and night; the one possessing
every virtue, the other every vice.

Casa-Meclzerini, on the opposite side of the Arno, and
called Parte di Tramontana, contains a celebrated Sibyl, by
Guercino ; with frescos by Tempesti and Cioﬂ'o.

T/ze Palazzo-Seta, in Via S. Cecilia, contains frescos by
the brothers Melani; as do the Palazzo del Publico, and the
Palazzo de’ Priori.

In the regal Palace the ceilings are painted with ele-
gance; and the furniture, though plain, is handsome.

The Hospitals are spacious; and the Loggia de’ Banclzi
and Casino Nobili, are ﬁne buildings.

The University of Pisa was founded by the Emperor
Henry VII; though, in consequence of civil wars, it be-
came almost annihilated, till the reign of Cosimo I; by
whom it was re-established on the present plan, in31543: it
has produced as many, if not more, learned men than any
other public seminary in Italy.

T lze Torre chZa Specola, or Observatory, was erected about
the year 1735; and is furnished with good instruments.

The botanic Garden was founded by Ferdinando, second
son of Cosimo I ; and has been greatly improved by Sig.
Santi, one of the Professors of the University; a Gentle—
man whose literary productions do honor both to his head
and heart; and whose kindness toward the British Nation
has ever been such as to command their sincerest gratitude
and highest esteem.

anP. v. PISA. 181

There seems little doubt that Pisa was a Roman colony,
often visited by the Caesars: and Nero, about the year 57,
is said to have made an excursion to this city, with which
he was so much pleased, that he embellished it with a mag-
niﬁcent palace and a temple dedicated to Diana, which
stood at the entrance of the Lucca-gate. This temple was
built in the form of a rotunda; all of marble without; the
ceiling being an imitation of the starry ﬁrmament. The
internal decorations consisted of oriental marble columns,
with various pieces of sculpture and painting; the pave-
ment was Egyptian marble; and the statue of the goddess
stood in its centre. \Vhether the palace did, or did not
enclose this temple, is unknown; but the former is described
as being highly ornamented, and of a vast extent; contain-
ing baths, gardens, and ﬁsh-ponds: and it is added that
Nero, in order to have it amply supplied with water, built
the aqueduct of Blonti-Pisani, which extended from Cal-
dacolli to the Lucca—gate. Such is the account given of
Nero’s temple and palace: and it is certain that the build-
ings, called Ipocaustz', extended from the Duomo to the
vicinity of the Monastery of S. Zenone. It is equally cer-
tain that foundations of immense buildings have been dis-
covered in the gardens which now occupy the space between
the church of S. Zenone and the Duomo ; that numberless
pieces of marble are seen in the walls and buildings, which
at present stand upon the abovenamed space; and two
ruins, near the Lucca-gate, one of which has been recently
demolished, were evidently parts of the Ipocausti: these
circumstances concur with several others to establish the
truth of what I have advanced. The most respectable
remains of these antiquities is the V apour-Baﬂz, situated in
a garden close to the Lucca-gate: this bath is an octagon,
with four semi-circular niches ; in the upper part of which
are terra-cotta tubes of a triangular shape. Opposite to
the entrance there appears to have been a place reserved for

182 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT.‘ CHAD. v.

some marble ornament. The roof forms a semi-circle;
and contains eight places to admit light, beside an octagon
aperture in the centre. The pavement, leading to the
great furnace, was made of calcistmzzo, with a surface of
marble one ﬁnger thick, to walk or lie down upon. It
is probable that, under this marble pavement, there were
vaulted rooms, where the attendants kept up perpetual
ﬁres: and some persons imagine that under every niche
were vases ﬁlled with water; which, on being heated by the
ﬁres, impregnated the apartments with vapour. Ancient
baths always consisted of four apartments, distinguished by
the appellations of cold, tepid, hot, and sudatory; and the
apartment called tepid, in the men’s bath, always com-
municated with the same apartment in the women’s bath:
and there is no doubt that the bath above described con-
sisted of four apartments, as traces of them may yet be dis—
covered. From the appearance of the bath now remaining,
it seems to have been lined throughout with marble; and
the six Grecian columns on the sides of the bronze doors of
the Duomo, together with the other two, which ornament
the principal door of the Baptistery, are supposed to have
been taken from this building. In the garden adjoining to
the bath, stood the Monastery of S. Zenone, vulgarly called
S. Zeno; of which, however, the Church only remains;
and, in it, are sarcophagi, which, though mutilated and
almost defaced, still possess sufﬁcient beauty to make us
execrate the hand of avarice or barbarism which has thus
destroyed these valuable remains of Grecian sculpture.

A house, belonging to the noble family Da Paulle, seems
to have been formed out of the ruins of an ancient theatre;
judging from the granite columns of different orders dis-
coverable in the walls.

11$ [/10 szqwrcsscd C/nu'c/z (f S. Felice are two columns of

I

CHAP. v. PISA. 183

oriental granite, with capitals adorned by mythological
ﬁgures, supposed to represent Jupiter, Harpocrates, Diana,
Minerva, Isis, Ceres, and Genii. They probably belonged
to a Roman temple, on the site of which the church of
S. Felice is said to have been erected. The sculpture
seems to be of Septimius Severus’s time.

The subterranean part (f S. JlIic/zele in Barge deserves
notice; the pillars and walls are of pictre vwvracamzc, the
roof is tufo, and curiously ornamented with arabesques,
resembling those which adorn Livia’s baths at Rome, and
not unlike, in style, to many of the paintings found in Her-
culaneum. This building could not have been a Christian
church, because the primitive Christians adorned their
churches with nothing but quotations from Holy Writ;
therefore it must, in all probability, have been erected pre-
vious to the time of Constantine. ‘

T/Le Aqueduct qf Caldacollz', so called from the hot
springs which supply it, is supposed to be that erected by
Nero: eight arches may still be seen at the distance of
about two hundred yards from the modern baths of Pisa;
and ruins of the whole are discoverable between this spot
and the Lucca-gate.

No vestiges remain of the ancient Port of Pisa, men-
tioned by Strabo: but it is supposed to have been near the
mouth of the Arno; and not far from Leghorn. We are
told that this port was protected neither by mole nor pier;
and though open to every wind,-yet vessels rode securely on
its bosom; owing to the size and tenacity of the weeds
which were so closely interwoven as to exclude the agitation
of the sea.

 

184 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. . CHAP. v.

Tile modern Bat/Ls, situated about three miles and a half
to the north of Pisa, are elegant, commodious, and sur-
rounded by several good lodging-houses. These baths,
the most celebrated in Italy, have the reputation of being
particularly beneﬁcial in gouty cases, and diseases of the
liver.

Two large fragments of columns with two capitals which
bear marks of remote antiquity, together with several other
concurring circumstances, lead us to imagine these modern
baths occupy the same ground with those mentioned by

Strabo and Pliny.

The Mountain of S. Giuliano, which rises immediately
above the baths, exhibits some curious caverns.

The modern Aqueduct, begun by Ferdinando I, and
ﬁnished by his son, Cosimo II, is a magniﬁcent work,
worthy the Princes of the House of Medieis : it commences
at a village, called Asciano; and extends to Pisa; a distance
of four miles; conveying to that city the most pure and
delicious water in Europe.

The Canal, which extends from Pisa to Leghorn, was
made by Ferdinando I.

The royal Farm, or Cascz'na, near Pisa, situated in an
extensive and beautiful forest of cork-trees, ever-green oaks,
82c. ; and washed by the sea; is worth notice; as it contains
camels, who, though foreigners, breed here, and are em-
ployed as beasts of burden: they are, however, much less
numerous at present than they were twenty years ago.
The Grand-Duke, Leopoldo, was the ﬁrst person who
attempted to breed camels in Italy.

CHAP. v. PISA. 185

The nobility of Pisa, and all the gentlemen belonging to
the University, are remarkably civil and kind to foreigners;
the lower classes of people respectful and humane, but
exacting.

There are three Hotels in this city, namely, Le tre Don-
zelle, I l Pellz'cano, and L’ Ussero : the ﬁrst has the advantage
in point of situation; and is, moreover, a tolerably good
inn, though by no means so comfortable as private lodgings
on that side of the Quay called, Parte dz' nwzzo—gz'orno;
for, on the opposite side, and in many of the streets and
squares, the houses are damp, and consequently unwhole-
some.

Travellers should be especially careful to send for the
Fountain-VVater of Pisa that ﬂows through the Aqueduct;
because the well-water, with which the houses are supplied,
is seldom ﬁt either for drinking, or even for kitchen-use.
The Theatre here is capacious; but not elegant.

The three Bridges, as I have already mentioned, are
handsome; especially the middle-one, which is composed
of marble and pietra verrucano ; and the mock-ﬁght, occa-
sionally exhibited on this bridge, is perhaps almost the only
remaining vestige of those martial games heretofore so
famous among the Greeks and Romans. The amusement
consists in a battle fought by 960 combatants; who,
clothed in coats of mail, and armed with wooden clubs,
dispute, for forty-ﬁve minutes, the passage of the bridge.
The strongest combatants possess themselves of the ﬁeld of
battle; and when it is possible to employ stratagem they
never let slip the opportunity: but to ﬁght in earnest is
forbidden: nevertheless, this mock encounter frequently

 

 

 

186 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. cannv.

costs lives; and is, therefore, but seldom permitted; though
one of the most beautiful exhibitions in Italy. Some
authors tell us it was instituted by Pelops, son of Tantalus,
King of Phrygia; others think it was established by Nero;
while others believe it to have been originally celebrated in
memory of the defeat of Musetto, King of Sardinia; which
happened in the year 1005, upon a bridge at Pisa: but
whoever the institutor might be, the amusement is entered
into, by the Pisans, with a degree of spirit that exceeds all
description *.

There is, likewise, every third summer, on the seven-
teenth of June, a singular and most beautiful illumination
here, in honour of S. Ranieri. On this night the whole
Lung’-Arno appears like an immense crescent of magni-
ﬁcent and regularly built palaces, studded with innumerable
quantities of diamonds; some in the Tuscan, others in the
Gothic, and others in the grotesque or Chinese style of
architecture (which participates so much of the Egyptian,
that many persons believe the Chinese were originally an
Egyptian colony)+. Add to this, the three bridges orna-
mented by temples blazing with jewels; and such is the
scene which Pisa presents to View at this general illumina-

* ‘Vhen a man stands candidate for the honour of being a
combatant, he is cased in armour, and then beat, for half an
hour, with wooden clubs; during which ceremony, should he
happen to flinch, or cry out, he is rejected ; but if he do neither,
he is chosen.

1- The belief that the Chinese were originally an Egyptian
colony, has lately been strengthened by a discovery, in the Ca-
binet of Medals, at Milan, of a Chinese work, containing draw-
ings of nearly a thousand antique Vases, resemblingr those called

Etruscan, and of Egyptian origin.

Gimp. v. PISA. 187

tion-—no wonder, therefore, that Ariosto is said to have
borrowed images from so splendid and singular an exhi-
tion; which can only be likened to an enchanted city.

The immense length and beautiful curve of the Pisa-
quay contribute greatly to the splendor of these two exhi-
bitions; the ground being so shaped that all the spectators
are seen at once, whether in balconies, carriages, on foot, or
in boats upon the river: and the same cause renders the
Carnival at Pisa particularly beautiful; for, during the last
week of this whimsical diversion, the whole quay is ﬁlled
with masks, from three in the aﬁernoon till the commence-
ment of the pastimes at the theatre.

The Carnez'a, or Carnival, appears to have been a F es-
tivity observed in most of the Grecian cities; but especially
at Sparta; where it took birth about 675 years before the
Christian era, in honour of Apollo, surnamed Carneus. It
lasted nine days. '

The climate of Pisa, during winter, is one of the best in
Europe; though at other seasons not equally salubrious.

o .._m. ,_ ..

 

"WIE‘WT‘

Fury—é

188

CHAPTER VI.

GENOA, NICE, TURlN, LEGHORN, LUCCA, &c.

Excursion from Pisa to Genoa—Harbour, Fanale, Fortiﬁca-

tions, Streets and Bridges of the latter City—Cathedral,
and other Churches—Residcnza dei Dogi—Palazzo-Da-
razzo— University—Palazm-Dor'ia, and other Palaces—
Hospitals—Albergo dei Poveri—Theatre—Hotels—Po—
pulation—Provisions—Climate— Character of the Genoese
——Description of Nice, and its Climate—Journey over the
Maritime Alps t0 Turin—Population (f that City -—Bridge
erected [y the :French—Regal Palace—Cathedral, and
other Churches— Theatre— Universth—Pnblic Garden
and Ramparts —Hotels — Climate— IVater—Environs—
Alexandria—Plain of Marengo—New Road over the
Bocchctta— Old Road—Leghorn—Harbour” Light-house,
Fortiﬁcations, and other objects best worth notice in the
town and its environs—1nns--Lucca——Population—Ca—
thedral—Other Churches—Palazzo—Publico——Ancient Am-
phitheatre—Modern Theatre—Character of the Lucchesi
—Semina7y_fb2mded by the Princess Elise—Inn—lllarlia
—Bagni (Ii anca—Environs of the Bagni—Peasantry—
llIode qfatltivating this part qf'the Apennine—Villas be-
tween the Baths of Lucca and the City—Road through
Pistqja to Florence.

WE have lately made an excursion from Pisa to Genoa,

Nice, and Turin; returning by Leghorn, Lucca, and Pistoja,
to Florence.

T he road, from Pisa to Lerici, is tolerably good, during

CHAP. VI. GEN 0A: _ 189

summer; but, at other seasons, Travellers frequently embark
at Via-Reggio (a small sea-port belonging to the Lucchesi,
and famous for the excellence of its ﬁsh); going thence,
either in a deck-vessel, or a felucca *, to Genoa; between
which city and Lerici there is only a mule-path; the
carriage-road, begun some few years smce, not being yet
completed.

Between Pisa and Via-Reggio we crossed the Serchio,
anciently the Ansar, in a ferry; ﬁnding, at the latter town, a
tolerable inn, though unhealthily situated.

We then proceeded to Pietra-Santa, placed in the neigh-
bourhood of a marsh, the exhalations from which are ex-
tremely noxious; particularly toward sun-set. The inn here,
being comfortable, is sometimes preferred, as a sleeping—
place, to that at Massa; which cannot be commended,
though, in point of air and situation, the latter town is in—
ﬁnitely preferable to the former. Not far hence are quarries
of Seravezza—marble. Massa, seated in a pleasant valley,
near the sea, is small, but well-built; and contains a hand-
some Royal residence, together with some good pictures in
its Churches: and five miles distant from this town is Car-
rara, whose quarries produce marble, perhaps, for the pur-
poses of sculpture, the most beautiful‘in the world; though,
for want of proper care in transporting the blocks, they are
frequently split and broken. Carrara contains nearly 3,500
inhabitants; and is built of marble, taken from the adjacent
quarries; which are well worth seeing; and where ﬁne cry-
stals are often found: it owes much to its late Sovereign, the
Princess Elise, who converted her Palace here into an Aca-

* A F elucca is an open boat, which makes use both of sails
and ears, always keeping near shore; and, in case of bad
weather, running immediately into harbour.

190 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CRAP. VI.

demy of Sculpture, richly stored with models, both ancient
and modern, and well worth observation.

Having passed Lavenza, formerly Aventia, the Port
whence the Carrara—marble is conveyed to every part of
Europe, we proceeded to Sarzana, a large town near the
site 'of the ancient Luna ,- and on arriving at Lerici, formerly
Ericis—Portus, embarked in a felucca for Genoa*; coasting
the Riviera, and passing Porto-Venere, defended by two
castles; near which ships go through a narrow strait into
the Gulph of Spezzia; supposed to have been the Forms-
Lance of the Romans; and a peculiarly large and safe har-
bour, surrounded with towns, villages, and plantations,
abounding in olive-trees, vines, and fruit.

Genoa, in Italian Geneva, called La Supev'ba, anciently a
city of Liguria, and the ﬁrst which fell under the Roman
yoke, appears to great advantage when viewed from the sea,
about one mile distant from the shore; for, then, its num-
berless and stately ediﬁces represent the seats of a vast am-
phitheatre, placed on a declivity of the enormous Apennine.
The Harbour of Genoa is capacious, and beautiful; but not
safe; being too much exposed to the Libecio, or south-west
wind, The Fanale, or Light-House, is a lofty tower, built
on an isolated rock at the west side of the harbour. The
fortifications, toward the sea, appear strong; being cut out
of the rocks; but the naval power of this country, once so
formidable, seems now reduced to a few gallies, chieﬂy em-
ployed in fetching corn from Sicily. Genoa is defended by
two walls; one of which immediately encompasses the town;
while the other takes in the rising grounds that command

' The distance, by sea, from Lerici to Genoa, is about twenty
leagues; the price commonly given for afelucca, from ﬁve to
six sequins; and the time usually employed in going, about

ﬁfteen hours.

CHAP. v1. GENOA. 191

it. The streets, three excepted, are not wide enough to
admit the use of carriages. The roofs of the houses are
ﬂat, and frequently adorned with orange—trees. Here is a
ﬁne stone bridge over the Bonzevera, and another over the
Bisagno; the former stream washing the western, the latter
the eastern side of the city.

The Cathedral, dedicated to S. Lorenzo, is a Gothic
structure, incrusted and paved with marble; and adorned
with a Cruciﬁxion by Baroccio. The bones of S. John Bap-
tist are said to be deposited in one of the chapels.

The Annoncz'ata, though built at the sole expense of the
Lomellino—family, is one of the most costly churches in
Genoa, and contains a ﬁne picture of the last supper, by
G. C. Procaccino.

S. Maria in Carignano, built in obedience to the will of
Bendinelli Sauli, a noble Genoese, is an elegant piece of
architecture; and the magniﬁcent bridge, leading to it, was
erected by a son of the above-named nobleman. The Church
contains a statue of S. Sebastiano, by Puget ! ! another of the
beatiﬁed Alessandro Sauli, by the same artist! and an in-
teresting picture of S. Peter and S. John curing the Para-
lytic, by D. Piola.

S. Ambrogio is adorned with three celebrated pictures;
namely, the Assumption, by Guido l—S. Ignatius exercising
a demoniac, and raising the dead, by Rubens!
Circumcision, by the same master !

 

and the

S. Domenico contains a picture of the Circumcision, by
Procaccino; and the ceiling of the Sanctuary is by Cappuc-
cino.

 

 

192 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.

S. Filippo Neri is a handsome church; the ceiling of
which was painted by Franceschini; and in the Oratory is
a statue of the Madonna, by Puget.

S. Matteo, built by the Doria-family, contains sepulchral
monuments by M‘ont—Orsoli; a high-altar of Florentine
work; and, behind it, a much-admired Picta‘.

S. Giovanni in Vecc/zio is adorned with a picture, by Van-
dyck !

S. Francesco (Ii Castclleto contains a celebrated picture, by
Tintorctto; together with bronze statues and bassi-rilicvi,
by Giovanni di Bologna. ‘

S. Strfano alle Porte contains a picture, representing the
martyrdom of S. Stephen, the upper part painted by Giulio
Romano, the lower part by Raphael.

T he Residema dez' Dogi is a large unornamented modern
building, erected in consequence of a ﬁre, which consumed
the ancient edifice. The great hall is magniﬁcent in point
of size; and once contained statues, in marble, of persons
eminent for their liberality to the public: but revolutionary
frenzy destroyed these statues; which have lately been re-
placed by copies, composed of plaster and straw, draped
with calico. The Arsenal, in this palace, contains the prow
of an ancient Roman galley; its length being about three
spans, and its greatest thickness two thirds of a foot: it was
discovered in 1597, in consequence of the harbour being
cleaned. Here, likewise, is the armour of several Genoese
Ladies, who joined a crusade to the Holy Land, in 1301.

lev Palazzo-Durazzo (Strada-Balbi) contains noble

CHAP. VI. GENOA. 193

rooms splendidly furnished, and a large collection of pic-
tures ; among which are celebrated works of Vandyck and
Rubens, and the Madonna at our Savionr’s feet, by Paolo
Veronese ll

T116 University is a ﬁne buildingg‘and contains, in its
Vestibule, two Lions of marble, which‘are much admired.

T/ze Palazzo-Dorz'a (Strada—Nuova) is a magniﬁcent edi-
ﬁce in point of architecture.

The Palazzo-Rosso contains ﬁne pictures; among which
are three Portraits, by Vandyck—Judith putting the head
of Holofernes into a bag, by Paolo Veronese- an old Man
reading, by Spagnoletto—the Bladonna, by Cappuccino—
the Adoration of the Shepherds, by Bassano—our Saviour
in the garden of olives, by the same — Clorinda delivering
the Christians, by Caravaggio—the resurrection of Lazarus,
by the same—Cleopatra, by Guercino—and several works,
both in painting and sculpture, by Parodi.

T/ze Palazzo-Brz'gnolc, opposite to the Palazzo-Rosso,
contains ﬁne pictures.

The Palazzo—Serra boasts a saloon, deemed one of the
most sumptuous apartments in Europe.

The Palazzo-Carega was built after the design of Buona-
roti; as was the Palazzo-Pallavicino, at Zerbino.

The great Hospital is a glorious establishment for the
Sick of all nations; and likewise for Foundlings; the boys
remaining, till they are able to work; the girls still longer.
The number of Sick, received into this hospital, has fre-

o

194 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.

quently exceeded one thousand; and the number of Found-
lings three thousand.

The Hospital of Incurables likewise is a noble establish-
ment.

.1»
The Albcyg‘o (lei Poverz', perhaps the most magniﬁcent

Hospital in Europe, stands upon a lofty eminence; and was
founded by a nobleman of the Brignoli-family, to serve as
an asylum for upward of a thousand persons, from age, and
other causes, reduced to want. The Chapel is handsome,
and contains a basso—rilievo, by Buonaroti, of the Madonna
contemplating the dead body of our Saviour l and here, like—

wise, is an Assumption, in marble, by Puget.

The Theatre of S. Agostz'no is much admired, with respect
to its architecture; as, indeed, are a considerable number of
buildings, which I have not enumerated: but though no
city of Italy boasts so many splendid ediﬁces as Genoa,
though all these ediﬁces are built of marble, and though the
Strada~Nuova, the Strada-Novissima, and the Strada—Balbi,
are strikingly magniﬁcent, the narrowness of the other
streets, and the want of spacious squares, gives an air of me-
lancholy to the town in general: its environs, however, are
exempt from this defect; and display a delightful union of
grandeur and cheerfulness ; the whole road to Sestri, a
distance of six miles, exhibiting one continued line of villas,
nearly equal, in size and elegance, to the palaces within the

city.

Genoa contains good Hotels"; and its population, in-

* L‘ [16:61 d'Europe; which is excellent ; L’A/bergo (1i Londm ,-
La Croce (1i Ala/ta; and L0 qzmmi Nazioni.

CHAP. v1. NICE. 195

cluding the inhabitants of San-Picr-d’Arena, is supposed to
amount to 80,000.

An Italian proverb says of this city; “ that it has sea, with-
out ﬁsh, land, without trecs, and men, without faith:” the
provisions, however, not excepting ﬁsh, are excellent; but
the wine is bad, and the climate by no means a good one.
The country, though (like Italy in general) thinly Wooded,
is, in some parts, romantic and beautiful: but as to the peo-
ple, they certainly vie in faith with their Ligurian ancestors.

The nobles are ill-educated, and seldom fond of literature:
they rarely inhabit the best apartments of their superb pa-
laces; but are said to like a splendid table: though their
chief gratiﬁcation has always consisted in amassing wealth
for the laudable purpose of expending it on public works,
and public charities.

The common people are active and industrious; and the
velvets, damasks, and artiﬁcial ﬂowers of Genoa have long

been celebrated.

Hence, to Nice, there is a carriage-road, which traverses
a delightful country: but, as the inns are bad, we preferred
hiring a felucca with ten oars, and pursuing our excursion

by sea*.

The first night we reached Oneglia, a small town occu—
pied chieﬂy by ﬁshermen; and the second night we arrived V
at Nice.

* The usual price for a ten-cared felucca, from Genoa to

Nice, is about ten sequins.

02

 

196 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VI.

This city is seated in a small plain, bounded, on the west,
by the Var, anciently called the Varus, which divides it from
Provence; on the south by the Mediterranean, which washes
its walls; and on the north by that chain of Alps, called '
Maritimd’, which seems designed by Nature to protect Italy
from the invasions of her Gallic Neighbours. The citadel
of Mont-Albano overhangs the town; and the Paglion, a
torrent which descends from the adjacent mountains, sepa—
rates it from what is called the English quarter, and runs
into the sea on the west.

The situation of Nice is cheerful; the walks and rides are.
pretty; the lodging-houses numerous, and tolerably conve—
nient; the eatables good and plentiful; and the wine and
oil excellent : but the near neighbourhood of the Alps, and
the prevalence of that searching wind, called vent dc bz'se,
render the air frequently cold, and even frosty, during winter
and spring; while, in summer, the heat is excessive?

From Nice we set out to cross the Maritime Alps to Turin,
by a most excellent and wonderful road, constructed during
the reign of Victor-Amadeus—‘hIaria, King of Sardinia (who
was seventeen years in completing it); and lately altered
and improved by the French; especially between Nice
and Scarena+.

* The principal Inns at Nice are, L'Holel dc York, Le Dun-
phin, and La Paste.

T This road, as constructed by VictonAmadeus, was always
passable for carriages at certain seasons of the year, and not only
passable but excellent: if I recollect right, the above-named
Prince was the ﬁrst person who ever attempted making a car-
riage-road over the great Alps.

emu). v1. MARITIME ALPS. 197

After driving about ﬁve miles on the banks of the Paglion,
we began to ascend the mountain of Scarena ; reaching the
village of that name in less than three hours. We then
proceeded, for nearly two hours and a half, up a moun-
tain composed of red, grey, and white marble, and, on
arriving at its summit, were presented with a view of Sos—
pello, lying at our feet, and apparently not half a mile
distant; yet so lofty was the mountain we were upon, that
we had nine miles to go ere we could reach Sospello. This
village, built on the banks of the Paglion, and surrounded
with Alps, contains two tolerable inns. Hence we proceeded
up the mountain of Sospello, which, being higher than
Scarena, exhibited a road more wonderful than that we had
already traversed, winding through immense rocks of mar-
ble, some of which were blown up with gunpowder in order
to make room for carriages to pass. Near Sospello stands
an ancient Roman castle: but, what seems extraordinary,
the old Roman road over these hlaritime Alps is no where
discoverable. After ascending for three hours, we reached
the summit of the mountain; and then descended, in less
than one hour, to La Chiandola; a romantic village, situated
at the brink of a thundering torrent, and adorned by cascades
gushing from jagged rocks above a thousand feet high. VVe
slept at La Chiandola; where the inn is tolerably good; and
next morning set out early for Tende. To describe the road
between this town and La Chiandola is impossible: neither
do I think it in the power of imagination to picture such
scenery as we beheld. Our ascent was gradual, by the side
of a magniﬁcent torrent; which, from rushing impetuously
over enormous masses of stone, forms itself into an endless
variety of cascades; while the stupendous rocks, through
which this road is pierced, from their immense height, gro-
tesque shapes, and verdant clothing, added to the beautiful
water-falls with which they are decorated, present one of the

198 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CIIAP. v1.

most awfully magniﬁcent grottOes that the masterly hand of
nature ever made. Through this grotto we travelled for a
considerable number of miles, surrounded by mountains
whose summits the eye cannot reach; though sometimes a
brilliant piece of snow, which we guessed to be the peak of
an Alp, appeared hanging, as it.-_,ere, in the sky; but clouds
always rested upon, and eclipﬁ the middle-part. Sud-
denly, however, we beheld, suspended in the air (for such
really was its appearance), a large fortiﬁed castle; and, soon
afterward, on turning a point, we discovered the town of
Saorgio, built in the shape of an amphitheatre, and appa-
rently poised between earth and heaven ;‘ while the lower
part of the rocks exhibited such woods of chestnut-trees as,
to English Travellers, appear equally uncommon and beau-
tiful. After this, we were continually presented with con-
vents, hermitages, remains of Castles, and old Roman
causeys, till our arrival at T ende; which is situated under
an immense Alp of the same name, computed to be eight
thousand feet in height; and over the summit of which lies
the road. Tende is a dismal looking town, resembling what
Poetry would picture as the world’s end: for the cloud—
capped mountain behind it seems to say, “ Thou shalt pro-
ceed no further.” It is prudent to pass the Col-de-Tende
before mid—day; because, at that time, there generally rises
a wind very inconvenient to Travellers. This passage, since
the improvements made in the road by the French, seldom
occupies above ﬁve hours: though, formerly, it took up
nearly double that time: we, therefore, left Tende at eight
o’clock, that we might reach the summit of the ascent by
eleven; and this was easily accomplished. On ﬁrst setting
out we were presented with picturesque prospects embel-
lished by bold cascades. When we had proceeded about
three parts up the mountain the air became chilly; and we
perceived, by the fog which enveloped us, that we were

CHAP. v1. 'l‘URIN. 199

passing through clouds; these, on attaining the summit, we
found ourselves considerably above; and here the cold was
intense. The top of this vast Alp exhibits a barren rock, ‘
whence we descried Blont—Viso, with other Alps still more
lofty; and at our feet Limoni, seated in a valley through
which rushes a torrent formed by snow from the Col Limoni,
contains a tole1 able inn. ’npe the road runs parallel with
one of those streams whicli fertilize this wild pa1t of Pied-
mont, till it enteIs the luxuriant plain 111 which stands Coni;
a ﬁnely situated town, whose fortiﬁpations were once deemed
impregnable. Here we slept at the post-house; proceeding,
next (lay, to Savigliano, and much struck with the change
of country; rich and tame cultivation succeeding to the sub-
lime and beautiful wildness of the Alps. Savigliano is a large
town, with a tolerable inn. Hence we drove to Carignano,
through one of the most fruitful vallies imaginable; and
after having stopped to dine at the latter place, proceeded
to Turin.

This city, seated in a spacious plain, loaded with mulber-
ries, vines, and corn, and watered by the rivers Po and Dora
(the former of which was anciently called Bodz'nco, or bot-
tomless), is approached by four ﬁne roads, shaded with forest-
trees; while the surrounding hills are covered with hand-
some ediﬁces; pre-eminent among which towers the magni-
ﬁcent church of La Superga.

Turin was named Augusta Taurz'nomm, by Augustus,
. when he made it into a Roman colony; before which period
it was the capital of the Taurini, a Gallic tribe: the modern
walls, or ramparts, are about four miles round, and contain
upward of 60,000 people: the citadel, a particularly ﬁne for-
tiﬁcation, which the French nearly destroyed, is now rc-
building. The streets, which are wide, straight, and clean,

0

 

200 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN’I‘. CHAP. v1,

intersect each other at right angles; so that on one particular
spot, in the middle of the town, they may all be seen at once,
issuing, like rays, from a common centre. The Strada del
Po, the Strada-Nuova, and the Strada del Dora-grande,
are very handsome; so are the Piazza del Castello, and the
Piazza di S. Carlo; each being-adorned with porticos: and
the bridge thrown by the Fm‘, over the P0, is one of the
most beautiful pieces of architecture of its kind in Europe.

The regal Palace contains an equestrian statue of Ama—
deus I; frescos by Beaumont and Daniel; and a valuable
collection of pictures of the Flemish and Italian school;
among which is the dropsical \Voman, by Gerard Dow !

The Cathedral merits notice, on account of one of its
Chapels, called La Cappella del S. Sudario, built after the

designs of Guarini, and equally singular and magniﬁcent.

The Chiesa di S. Filiﬂvo Neri is a ﬁne edifice in point of
architecture, built after the designs of Giuvara, Torinese;
and contains a superb high-altar and baldacchino, a good
painting of S. Filippo in ecstasy, by Solimena, together with
works of Carlo Maratta and Conca.

The Chiesa di S. Christina contains a statue of S. Teresa,
deemed the chzjld’amzrre of Legros.

The Teaz‘ro (Ii Can'gnano is handsome; and the gran
Teatro is one of the largest and most beautiful buildings of
its kind existing.

The University contains hassi-rilievi and antique inscrip—
tions, chieﬂy found in the neighbourhood of Turin; statues,
medals, a library consisting of between forty and ﬁfty thou—

7

CHAP. v1. ' 'I‘URIN. 201

sand volumes, many being manuscripts; together with the
celebrated Isiac table, one of the most precious monuments
extant of Egyptian antiquity! ! l

The public Garden, and the Ramparts, are delightful
promenades: and were it not for a want of correctness and
simplicity in the structurﬁnd decorations of the principal
ediﬁces, Turin would be one of— the most beautiful towns in

Europe.

Here are good Hotels*; good'shops (where the manu-
factures of the country, namely, velvets, silks, silk stockings,
tapestry, porcelain, Chamois-leather gloves, Ste. are sold);
a g‘bod market for eatables, and good wine: but the fogs
which invariably prevail, during autumn and winter, make
the climate at those seasons unwholesome: and the foul and
noxious water, too frequently found in the wells and reser-
voirs of this city, often prove even a greater evil than the
fogs: there is, however, before the Po-Gate, near the Capu-
chin—convent, a well of excellent water.

The objects best worth notice in the environs of Turin
are; Valentino, where there is a public Garden—La Vigna
della Regina, which commands a ﬁne view—Camaldolz', the
road to which is very romantic—La Supm‘ga (ﬁve miles
distant from the city), a magniﬁcent church, where rest the
ashes of the Sardinian Kings; and La V enerz'a, a royal Villa,
containing some good paintings, and a ﬁne orangery. &

The ruins of the ancient town of Industrz'a are not far
distant from Turin.

* L’Albergo reale, Strada-nuova—La Locanrla d’Ing/zilterm
—Le Buone Donne—711 Bove Russo; 84C.

9

 

 

202 'rnAVELs ON THE CONTINENT. ClIAI’. v1.

Wishing to pass the Bocchetta, one of the loftiest moun-
tains of the Apennine, in order to see the new route now
constructing there, by command of the present King of
Sardinia; we quitted Turin by the magniﬁcent new bridge
already mentioned; and traversed a good and pleasant road
to Asti; a large town, seated amidst vineyards which produce
the best wine in Piedmont. Q

Asti, supposed to contain above 10,000 Inhabitants, is
encircled with extensive walls in a ruinous condition: and
of the hundred towers, ﬁﬁ' which it once was famous, scarce
thirty remain; and even these seem nodding to their fall.
The people here are poor, and much inclined to idleness:
and the town, generally speaking, has a sombre aspect; that
quarter excepted where the nobility reside, and where the
buildings are handsome. Asti boasts the honour of contain—
ing the paternal mansion of the Conte Vittorio Alﬁeri, the
greatest, and almost the only distinguished tragic Poet
modern Italy ever produced. The Duomo, here, has been
lately erected, and merits notice; as do the Churches of S.
Secomlo, and the ‘Madomm della Consolata, and likewise that
of S. Bartolommco dei Bencdcttim', on the outside of the

walls *.

On quitting Asti we crossed the Stirone, traversed a beau-
tiful vale richly clothed with grain; and, after having passed
the village of Annone, were presented with a particularly
ﬁnéview of the Po. VVe then passed F elizzano and Solera;
and approached the Fortress of Alessandria through a road
in some places sandy, but otherwise good.

"" Asti contains two very tolerable inns, namely, La Rosa

rossa, and Il Leone d'oro.

CH AP. VI. ALESSANDRIA, Ste. 203

Alessandria, seated in the midst of an extensive plain, and
watered by the Tanaro, is a large and handsome city, par-
ticularly celebrated for the many sieges it has sustained; and
for the strength of its citadel, perhaps the ﬁnest in Europe.
Here are two magniﬁcent Bridges; one of which, covered
from end to end, is equally remarkable for its length, height,
and solidity. The Sluices‘ of the Tanaro especially merit
notice. The Piazza d’Armi is spacious and pleasant; and
the Palazzo—Reale, the Governor’s House, the Churches of
S. Alessandro and S. Lorenzo, the new Thaatre, and the
Ramparts, are worth seeing. This city contains about
18,000 inhabitants, and one good Hotel *.

On quitting Alessandria, we crossed the Tanaro, and im-
mediately re-entered the above-named plain; called, on this
side, that of l\Iareng0 ; and famous for the decisive victory
gained here, by Napoleon, over the Austrians. No ground
can be better calculated for the strife of armies than this
plain; which is not only extensive, but ﬂat; and equally
devoid of trees and fences: though, either in consequence
of judicious cultivation, or the quantity of human blood with
which the soil has been fertilized, it bears abundance of ﬁne
com. A quarter of a league distant from Alessandria we
crossed the Bormida, a large and rapid torrent; and, half a
league further on, passed the hamlet of Marengo. One
public house on this plain is still called The T orre dz' Ma-
rengo, and another, The Albcrgo dz' lunga fama; but the
column, surmounted by an eagle, and placed on the spot
where Desaix fell, is now to be seen no more.

At Marengo we quitted the route which leads to Parma ;

* L’Albergo Reale vecckio d’Italz'a.

 

 

901‘ TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. ('HAP. VI.

and proceeded through a tolerably good, though, in some
parts, a narrow road, to Novi ; seeing, by the way, the Do-
menican Abbadia del Bosco, adorned with a few good paint-
ings, and some sculpture; the latter by Buonaroti.

Novi, placed among vineyards at the base of the Apen-
nine, contains 6000 inhabitants, several magniﬁcent houses,
which belong to rich Genovesi, who spend the autumn here;
and two comfortable inns * : it is, therefore, the best sleeping-
place between Turin and Genoa, both on account of the
last-named circumstance, and likewise from being situated
about midway. One tower of the old Castle of Novi alone
remains, standing on an eminence, and remarkable for its
height.

The new road over the Bocchetta is to go from Novi to
Seravalle and Genoa, by a much lower part of the Apennine
than that which the present road traverses: and happy will
it be for Travellers when this new road is finished; as the
old one is so extremely rough that no carriage, not particu—
larly strong, can pass through it without injury: beside
which, the new road, by its low situation, will be protected
from those dangerous storms that frequently *visit the Boc—

chetta.

After driving through the vineyards, orchards, and chest-
nut-groves, near Novi, we penetrated into the heart of the
Apennine, by a road somewhat resembling a saw; traversing
ancient water-courses and narrow deﬁles to Gavi, a town
which contains 1,600 inhabitants and a good hotel. The

* L’A/bergo Rea/e in Via—Ghirardenghi, and La Pusla, beyond

the town, on the way to Genoa.

CHAP. v1- THE BOCCHETTA. 205

castle here is proudly seated on a rock, for the defence of
the pass; and, according to report, was never taken. Vol-
taggio, the next town, and where the present passage of the
Bocchetta commences, is nearly equal in population to
Gavi ; and contains two good inns. Hence the road passes
through a deﬁle, sometimes surrounded with chestnut—woods,
at others exhibiting bad pasturages bordered by the Lemmo,
and hovels the very picture of wretchedness; though erected
on blocks of beautiful and costly marble, with which this
part of the Apennine abounds. The women who inhabit
these hovels are low of stature, with thick legs, broad feet,
large throats, and frequently goitrous swellings: ‘the chil-
dren look unhealthy, and seem to be wholly occupied by
watching pigs and goats, and following mules and carriages,
to collect dung for manure: the food of these poor moun-
taineers is chestnut—bread, hog’s lard, and snow-water: and
when the chestnuts fail, famine ensues. As we advanced
toward the Col, we found the hovels lessen in number; and at
length saw no vestige of any habitation except a guard-house
on an isolated rock, where, (luring the period when this
passage was infested by Banditti, Soldiers were stationed to
protect Travellers. On gaining the summit of the Bocchetta
we were presented with a view of the beautiful valley of Pol-
cevera, terminated by the city of Genoa and the Mediter—
ranean sea: and the rich cultivation exhibited in this valley,
by the persevering industry of the Genovesi, produces a
most delightful contrast to the savage and barren aspect of
the northern side of the Apennine. The descent for two
leagues to Campo-Marone is, in some places, very rapid;
but thence to Genoa the road constructed by a Doge Of the
Cambiaso family is excellent: it lies on the left bank of the
Polcevera, amidst villas, villages, orange and olive-gardens,
cypresses, and that most beautiful of all Italian trees, the

 

206 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.VI.

round-topped maritime stone pine, at length entering the
city by the magniﬁcent F aubourg of San-Pier-d’Arena *1

Having procured a bill of health at Genoa, which is
always necessary on quitting this town by sea, we again em-
barked in a felucca; and were fortunate enough, on the
second evening of our voyage, to reach the harbour of Leg-
horn‘r. The island of Gorgona, and the rock, called Me-
loria, are both situated on the right side of the entrance into
this ﬁne harbour; which is divided into two parts, that fur-
thest from the shore being defended against the violence of
the sea by a pier; though large vessels anchor in the roads,
about two miles from the pier-head. The Light-house is
built upon an isolated rock in the open sea.

Leghorn, in Italian Livorno, the nurse—child of the House
of Medicis, called, by the ancients, Lz'bzmms Portus, and for-
merly subject to Genoa, was the ﬁrst free port established in
the Mediterranean: and this political establishment, the
work of Cosimo I, who exchanged the episcopal city of Sar-
zano for the then unimportant village of Leghorn, soon ren-
dered the latter a place of great consequence: and by cutting
several canals, and encouraging cultivation, he, in some
measure, destroyed the noxious vapours which naturally
proceeded from a loose and marshy soil. Leghorn, to per-
sons unskilled in the art’ of war, seems strongly fortiﬁed: but

* Between Turin and Genoa, a carriage with two places and
four wheels goes, generally speaking, with two horses only,
according to the tariff : but the post-masters often put on three
horses ; though Travellers do not pay any thing extra in conse-
quence.

+ We paid, for our felucca, twelve sequins.

CHAP. VI. LEGHORN, &c. 207

various circumstances, I am told, would prevent it from
being tenable long, whether attacked by land or sea. This
city is two miles in circumference; and contains 60,000 inha-
bitants; 20,000 of whom are said to be Jews: its ramparts
are handsome; and the high—street, from its breadth and
straightness, from the richness of its shops, and still more
from the motley crowd of all nations with which it is con-
stantly ﬁlled, presents a picture equally singular and pleasing.
The great square is spacious; and tile Duomo is a noble edi-
fice, designed by Vasari :' this Church~tlze Jett‘s’ Synagogue,
(one of the ﬁnest in Europe)—_—ﬂze C/mrc/z of tlzc united
Greeks —— t/ze JIonte, or Ban/r —-—1WIz'caZz"s S/zop—i/ze Coral-
]llannﬁzcture—t/Ie great Prz'ntz'ng—Honse—J/zc Opera-Honsc
—t/ze ‘jbur Slaves, in bronze, by Pietro Tacca, chained to
the pedestal of the statue of F erdinando I, which stands in
the Dock-yard, and was done by Giovanni del Opera—tile
Lazzarctti—tlzc Camjw-Santo—z‘lze English Burial-ground—
#16 new Aqueduct, not yet completed, which is to bring
wholesome water to the city, from the mountains of Colog-
nole (twelve miles distant) —— and tile C/zurclz oft/26 Illadonna
dz' llIontcnero, are the objects best worth notice in Leghorn
and its environs. Here are several inns *: and the English
Factory have a Protestant Chapel. From Leghorn we pro-
ceeded, by land, through part of the forest of Arno, to Pisa;
a distance of fourteen Tuscan miles: though persons who
prefer water-carriage may go by the Canal, from the one
city to the other. At Pisa we directed our course to Lucca ;
traversing an excellent road so far as Ripafrataf ; but, ﬁnd-
ing ourselves in a bad one afterward, till we arrived at

* Tire Globe—The Croce d'ora—and tile Croce di .llIalta.

f Here, there is an Austrian Custom-house, at which I was
called upon to pay four pauls f0r a four-wheeled carriage with
two horses.

208 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.

Lucca. There is, however, in this part of the country, a
new road making.

Lucca, called L’Indusirz'osa, is beautifully situated, about
twelve Tuscan miles from Pisa, in a luxuriant valley, encir-
cled by the Apennine, and watered by the Serchio: it is de-
fended by eleven bastions of brick, and ramparts which,
from being planted with forest-trees, give this little city the
appearance of a fortified wood with a watch-tower in its
centre: the ediﬁce which resembles the latter being the
cathedral. The Ramparts are three miles in circumference;
and form a delightful promenade, either on foot or in a car-
riage. Previous to the French revolution the word, “ Li-
bertas,” was inscribed on the Pisa-Gate: this inscription,
however, no longer exists: but, nevertheless, it is impossible
to enter Lucca without feeling high respect for a town which,
even during the plenitude of Roman despotism, maintained
its own laws, and some degree of liberty; and which, since
that period till very recently, always continued free. The
territory contains about four hundred square miles, and about
120,000 people. Caesar wintered at Lucca after his third
campaign in Gaul: and, according to Appian of Alexandria,
all the magistrates of Rome came to visit him; insomuch
that two hundred Roman Senators were seen before his door
at the same moment: which circumstance proves Lucca to
have been, at that period, rather a large city.

The streets are broad, well paved, and clean; but irre-

gular.

T be Cathedral, erected in 1070, though unpromising
without, is a ﬁne Gothic building within; and contains, on
the right of the great door, the tomb of Adalbert, surnamed
“ The Rich ;” who lived in the beginning of the tenth cen-

 

CHAP. v1. LUCCA. 209

tury ; and was, according to Muratori, the Progenitor of the
Princes of Este, and the House of Brunswick Hanover, now
Sovereigns of Great Britain. The famous Countess lVIa-
tilda was a descendant from the above-named Adalbert;
and this Princess, the daughter of a Duke of Lucca who
died in 1052, reigned over Tuscany, Lombardy, and Li-
guria, maintaining desperate wars, for thirty successive
years, against the Schismatics and Anti-Popes; till, at
length, she drove the Emperor, Henry IV, out of Italy,
and restored to the Church its ancient possessions. But,
to return to the Cathedral: this ediﬁce is adorned with
paintings, by Coli and Sancasciani, Lucchesi; a picture,
by Zuccari; another, by Tintoretto; statues of the four
Evangelists, by Foncelli; a celebrated cruciﬁx, called the
Voto Santa,- ﬁne painted glass windows, and a beautiful
inlaid marble pavement.

S. Maria, called La Citiesa dell’ Umz'ltd, contains a good
picture, by Titian.

Tile C/zz'esa (12' S. Ponzz'ano contains two good paintings,

by Pietro Lombardo.

T/ze Palazzo-Publz'co, built by Ammannato and Filippo
Giuvara, is embellished with the works of Luca Giordano,
Albert Durer, Guercino, &c.—and in the Armoury are
several ancient helmets, the smallest of which our courier,
an athletic man, attempted to put on his head; but found
himself scarcely able to lift it—so much is human strength
degenerated !

Remains of the ancient Amphitheatre are discoverable on
the spot called Prigz'om' vecc/zz'e.

A rice—V” w~—__~_w-ww

210 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.

The modern Theatre is small, but pretty.

The police of Lucca has long been famed for its ex-
cellence. The upper ranks of people are opulent, learned,
and well inclined; the mechanics (instructed by their late
Sovereign, the Princess Elise), display great taste and ex-
pertness in making household furniture; the lower ranks of
people possess more integrity of character, with a stronger
sense of religion, than is commonly found now in Roman
Catholic countries; and the peasants are the most indus-
trious and skilful husbandmen of southern Italy.

Lucca contains a Seminary, founded by the Princess
Elise, for the education of an hundred young ladies, beside
children of humble birth: and this Princess had likewise
taken measures to establish an Institute, for the encourage—
ment of arts and sciences, when she was called upon to re—
linquish her throne.

The Pantera is the best inn at Lucca.

Travellers who enter this city with post-horses are com-
pelled to quit it in the same manner.

The surrounding country is rich in villas; and that
called Marlia, 011 the way to the Baths of Lucca, par-
ticularly merits notice; as it was built by the Princess
Elise, is furnished with peculiar elegance, and stands in a
beautiful garden ”‘2 The road from Lucca to this Villa, :1

* The Empress Maria Louisa visited this Villa not long
since; slept here, and ordered every thing to be in readiness
for her departure at four o’clock the next morning : she, how-
ever, lingered in the Marlia-gallery (apparently lost in thought),
till ten o'clock; and then, with great reluctance, went away.

 

CHAP. v1. LUCCA. 211

distance of between four and ﬁve miles, is excellent; and
hence to the Bagni-caldi (about eight miles) equally good:
it winds almost constantly by the side of the Serchio; and
is cut through rocks clothed with olives and chestnuts, and
adorned with convents, villas, and cottages. Nothing can
be more romantic than this drive; and, on the way, are
three extraordinary bridges; the ﬁrst consisting of two im-
mense arches, not in a straight line with each other, but
forming, in the centre, a considerable angle; neither do
these arches support a level road: on the contrary, you
ascend one arch and descend it again; you then come to an
angle of ﬂat ground; after which you ascend the other
arch, and descend that, till you reach a smaller arch, which
brings you to the opposite shore of the Serchio. The
height of this bridge we could not precisely ascertain; but,
judging from the eye, it is nearly equal to that of Augustus
at Narni. The second bridge is similar to the ﬁrst; but
the third, which consists of only one large arch, is by far
the loftiest; and, according to oral tradition, was the work
of the Devil; who really seems to have been, in the opinion
of the Italians, a great architect; for every extraordinary
building is attributed to him. Other accounts, however,
say, these bridges were erected by the Countess Matilda:
and one of the postillions who drove us to the Bagni, told
me, they were built soon after the year lOOO—an ex-
traordinary circumstance that he should have been so ac-
curate a chronologistl—but the common people of Italy
_ are well-informed respecting the history of their country;
and, moreover, so fond of its poets as frequently to know
their works by heart.

Her Son’s Bust is at Marlia; and, if like him, he must have a
countenance replete with sense and animation, and bearing a
strong resemblance to his Father.

P 2

212 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.

The Bagni-caldi di Lucca are situated on the side of a
romantic and picturesque mountain, thickly clothed with
chestnut-woods; where, during summer, the walks are de-
lightful. The Bagni della V illa are in the plain, near the
banks of the Lima; and the late Sovereign, by making a
ﬁne road to these Baths, and inducing her own family to
frequent them, has converted a secluded village into a gay
public place. At the Bagni—caldi there is one lodging-
house which accommodates from twelve to fourteen fa—
milies"; another which accommodates three familiesf;
several small lodgings; a coffee-house, and a cassino;
where, during the season, there is a ball every Sunday
night. These baths, therefore, to persons very fond of
society, must be an eligible summer situation. At the
Bagni della Villa there are several good lodging-houses;
some of which accommodate two or three families, others
only one: and here the mother of the Princess Elise used
to reside 1. At the Ponte-Seraglio, near the Bagni-caldi,
there are lodging—houses; but these, generally speaking,
are inhabited by persons of the second rank.

* In this house, which belongs to the Abate Lena, Families
may either have kitchens to themselves, or employ the Traiteur
who resides under the same roof.

1- T his house belongs to an excellent Traiteur, called Ioha-
chino ; who furnishes the tables of his Lodgers: his third ﬂoor,
which is the best, was let in 1817 for thirty sequins a month;
and his other ﬂoors for eighteen or twenty sequins each.

i The best apartment in the house of the Signora Lena, at
the Bagni della Villa, was let in 1817 for thirty sequins a
month : the ﬁrst ﬂoor in the house of Sig. G. B. del Chiappa for
twenty-eight sequins a month; and the second ﬂoor for eighteen
or twenty sequins. Casa-Ambrogio, Casa-Nobile, Casa-Bon-
visi, and Casa-Rossi, are good lodging-houses; the last is that
in which the Mother of the late Sovereign formerly lived.

can. v1. LUCCA. 213

The usual Promenade here is between the Bagni della
Villa and the Ponte-Seraglio, on a dusty road; while a
delightful drive, made by the Government, under the wood
on the opposite side of the river, is totally neglected.

The season commences with July and ends with August;
though June and September are months better calculated
for the examination of this beautiful Spot, which is one of
the coolest summer abodes of southern Italy.

Provisions here are not exorbitant in price, even during
the season: but good table-wine and good butcher’s meat,
except veal, are difﬁcult to procure; and fruit, except Alpine
strawberries, cherries, and wild raspberries, is neither very
fine nor very plentiful.

Lovers of botany should visit, during the month of June,
the Prato Fz'orz'to, near these Baths; which is, at the above-
named time, enamelled with a larger number and a greater
variety of ﬂowers than fall to the share, perhaps, of any
other spot existing *1 The best way of seeing this garden
of Flora is to set out at an early hour, going by Coltrone,
and returnng by Monte-Villa, near which several of the
chestnut-trees are of so extraordinary a size that they would
be ﬁt subjects for landscape-painters to study. The modes
of conveyance to the Prato Fiorito are various; ponies and
donkies may be easily procured: but people, in general,
prefer being carried by Portentini; of whom there is a con-
siderable number at the Baths: three men are requisite for

* Tradition reports that, on this eminence, there once stood
a temple dedicated to ZEsculapius; whose Priests are supposed
to have cultivated round the ediﬁce a large number of ﬂowers 3
which chance has perpetuated to the present day.

214 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.

each chair; and their usual pay is ﬁve pauls a man, with
bread, common wine, and cheese of the country for dinner,
wherever the party like to stop; which is generally at the
foot of the Prato Fiorito; there being, in this place, a
spring of good water.

Another pleasant excursion may be made in the same
manner, from the Bagni della Villa to Ponte Nero: the
best way of going is to cross the Lima on the Ponte Nuovo,
keeping on the far side of the river the whole way; and then
returning by Palleggio; as that village, together with the
hamlets of Cocciglia and Cosoli di Val di Lima, form a
beautiful and most romantic prospect. The party should
(line near this spot; and then go back to the Baths by the
Palleggio side of the river, as far as the wooden bridge of
La Fabbrica; where they should cross to the other side. A
guide well acquainted with the country is requisite for this
excursion, and may be procured at the Baths.

\

Loiano, likewise, from its singular situation, is worth

visiting. ‘

The peasantry of these mountains are an honest and in-
dustrious people: the little land they possess is cultivated
with the utmost care, and in the neatest manner; but does
not yield sufﬁcient food for the numerous inhabitants of this
part of the Duchy of Lucca; who are, therefore, com—
pelled, like many other natives of the Apennine, to live
chieﬂy on bread made of chestnuts : and when these fail, the
consequence is dreadful; as was exempliﬁed lately, when
hundreds perished from want; while those who survived
had no sustenance but beans boiled with grass, and herbs
collected on the mountains: and yet there was no rioting, no
murmuring, no complaint—the famished peasants prayed to

CHAP. VI. LUCCA. 215

Heaven for relief, and awaited with resignation the ap-
proach of better days. The vices and crimes which dis-
grace more civilized nations are little known amongst these
innocent people, whose probity and piety are equally ex-
emplary *.

The mode of cultivating this part of the Apennine is very
beautiful: at the commencement of each ascent vines are
dressed on terraces cut in the side of the hill; wheat being
sown between every two rows of vines: above these there
frequently is an olive garden; and on the more elevated
parts of the hill are chestnuts.

Mountains are sold here not by measurement, but from
a calculation respecting the number of sacks of chestnuts
they usually produce. The landlord receives two-thirds of
the chestnuts which are collected; and half of the other
crops. The richer grounds in the plain produce hemp,
from which much coarse cloth, and some of a ﬁner sort,
is manufactured; and every peasant has a stock of silk-
worms 1r. Wheat is usually cut about Midsummer; and

* The Rector of the parish in which the Bagni di Lucca are
situated, told a friend of mine, that, after a residence of twenty
years among his parishioners, who amount to above eight hun-
dred people, he had never heard of the commission of one theft,
neither had he heard of more than three children born out of
wedlock.

Jr The female peasants often manufacture a silk, for their
own wear, from the bags of those silk-worms which are allowed
to work their way out, in order to produce eggs for the ensuing
year. The costume of the inferior peasants is neat; and the
wives and daughters of the farmers are, on festival-days, hand-
somely dressed when they go to church, or elsewhere ; but this
ﬁnery is laid by, the moment they return home.

216 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.

immediately carried off the ﬁelds; which are, on the same
day, sown with Indian corn; and this comes up in a week,
and is ﬁt to be cut in October. In many places rows of
Indian corn and French beans, called scarlet runners, are
planted alternately; the former serving as a support to the
latter 9“.

On our return from the Baths of Lucca, we noticed, be-
tween that romantic spot and the city, several villas, with
gardens possessing shady walks; a comfort seldom found
in southern Italy: and, on inquiry, I learnt, that the
owners of these habitations were usually glad to let them to
respectable tenants, from lVIay till the end of September.

Having traversed the beautiful and highly cultivated
plain of Lucca, adorned with forest trees, from which hang
festoons of vines in every direction, we approached Pescia,
a small episcopal city at the base .of the Apennine, and
peculiarly situated amidst mountains cultivated to their
summits, and covered with villages, churches, and castles:
the episcopal palace here looks handsome; and near this
town are the baths of Monte-Catini.

The road, to the end of the Lucehese territories, is ex-
cellent; but thence to Pistoja paved, and not well kept.
The country between Pcscia and Pistoja is bold and ro-
mantic; and the latter city ﬁnely placed 011 the side of the

* It was not in my power to collect much information relative
to the Baths of Lucca 3 because my residence there was short:
but from a friend, who spent several months in that vicinity,
and is, moreover, a judicious and accurate observer, I received
many of the particulars I have, in consequence, been enabled to
detail.

CHAP. v1. PISTOJA. 217

Apennine, near the river Ombrone, contains particularly
wide, straight, and well-paved streets; palaces, which an-
nounce magniﬁcence; and a venerable Gothic Cathedral:
but the city looks too large for its inhabitants (said to be
only 10,000), and therefore has a gloomy appearance. It
was famous among the ancients for the defeat of Catiline;
and, in modern times, the factions of the Guelphs and
Ghibelines have rendered it no less remarkable. The
situation of Pistoja is cool; the air healthy; the country
fruitful; and the provisions are cheap and good.

The Cathedral contains a monument erected to the
memory of Cardinal Fertoguerra, begun by Andrea Ver-
rochio, and ﬁnished by Lorengetti—over the high altar is
an ascension, by Bronzino; and on the walls several his-
torical passages of scripture are represented in hasso-rz'lz'evo.
The famous Civilian Cino, is interred in this church; and
his memory perpetuated by two inscriptions, over which are
hassi—rz'lz'evz' by Andrea, Pisano.

The Baptistmy, which stands in the area before the
church, is spacious, and was used, in the ﬁrst ages of
Christianity, for baptising proselytes.

The Chz'esa (12' S. Francesco dz' Sala contains seven paint-

ings, by Andrea del Sarto.

The Chiesa dz' S. Prospero contains a ﬁne Library, in the
anti-room to which are hassi-rilz'evi, by Cornaquioi.

The Chiesa dell’ Umz'ltd is admired for its architecture
and cupola, by Vasari.

The Chiesa dello Spirito Santa possesses an excellent
organ.

218 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v1.
The Episcopal Palace contains a statue of Leo XI.
The modem College and Seminary merit notice.

Good organs, cannon, and muskets, are made at Pistoja,
The best inn (:1 very bad one) is the post-house.

From Pistoja we. proceeded to ‘Prato and Florence;
leaving, to the right, the royal Villa of Poggio-a—Cajano,
whose foundations were laid by Leo X: and this villa
merits notice, from its ﬁne situation, and because it is em-

bellished with the works of Andrea del Sarto.

The country between Pistoja and Florence may, with
truth, be called the richest and best cultivated garden in
Tuscany: and the lofty hedges of vines climbing up forest
trees, and forming themselves into magniﬁcent festoons on
each side of the road, present the appearance of an im-
mensely extensive gallery, ﬁtted up for a ball.

The road from Pistoja to Florence is good.

CHAPTER VII.
SIENA A/ND ROME.

Journcg/ . from Florence to Rome through Siena—Descrip—
tion If the last-namcd city and its Environs—Radicg‘ani
—Viterbo—Tomb of C'. V. Marianns—Ponte-llIo/le—-
Nasonian Sepulchre—Jlluro Torto—Porta del Popolo—
Rome—Malaria—Climate— IVater conveyed daily to the
ancient city—Size and population of ditto—Size of the
modern city— Society— Excava ti ons— Fora-Romano—
Colosseo—Arco di Costantino—Chiesa di S. Teodoro—
Arco di Settimo Severo au Velalzrum—Chiesa di S.
Georgia in Velabro—Arco di Giano Quadri/ronte—Lahe
ofJuturna—-Cloaca Mawima—House called that of Pi-
late—Chiesa di S. ﬂIaria in Cosmedin—Tempio di
Vesta—Tempio di F ortuna Viriles—Palazzo de’ Cesari
——Circu8 .Mawimus—Chiesa di S. Gregorio Mel Monte-
Celio—Terme di Tito—Sette Sale——Chiesa di S. Mar—
tino in .Monte—di S. Pietro in Vincoli—di' S. Maria della

Tavicella—di S. S teﬂmo Rolando—Obelisk of the Piazza
del Popolo—Obelisk of the Trinitd de’ Monti— Villa
JIedici—Statues and Obelisk ofMonte—Cavallo—Chieca
(Ii S. Bernardo—(Ii S. [Maria degli Angeli—The Pope’s
Oil-Cellar—Obelish of S. Maria Maggiorc—Column—
Basilica—Obelisk of S. Giovanni in Laterano—Battis-
terio di Costantino—Basilica di S. Giovanni in Laterano
—Scala Santa—Triclinium—Am-phitheatre Castrense—
Basilica di S. Croce in Gerusalemo—Temple called that
of Venus and Cupid—Claudian Aqueduct—Chiesa cli.
S. Bibiana—Tempio di .Mincrva—Medica—Arco dz' Gal-

220 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN'I‘. CHAP. vn.

limo—Remains of Aguedacts—Cliz'esa (Ii S. Prassade—
Campidoglio— Tarpeian Rock— Chiesa di S. .Maria

d’Aracwli—di S. Pietro in Carcere—Palazzo clel Sena—
tore — Palazzo de’ Conservatori — Aluseo—Capitolino —

Tempio di Pallade-Tempio e Faro di Nerva—Foro
e Colonna Trajana—Dogana Pontiﬂcia— Obelisk of
JIonte—Ciz‘orio— Colonna Antonina—Illausoleo d’Augusto
—Campo-ﬂ[arzo—JlIausoleo—Adria720—Tempio del Sole
—Batlis of Constantine—Obelisk of’S. Maria sopra M i-
nerva—Chiesa di S. JlIaria 80pm .Minerva—Casanatense
Librarg—Pantheon—Bagni d’Agrippa—Piazza-lVavona
—Cliiesa di S. Agnes—Teatro di ilIarcello—Prz'son of the
Decemviri—Portico di Octavia—Tempio d‘Esculapio—
C/iiesa Lli S. Cecilia in Trastecere—Basilica di S. ﬁIaria
in Trastevcre——Fomztain——Cliiesa di S. Pl'isca—di
S. Sabina—(Ii S. Alessio—Jlo'nte-Testaccio—Sepolcro
di Cajo Cestio—Terme (li Caracalla—Sepolcro de’ Sci-
pioni—Porta di S. Sebastiano alle C ataeombe—Cercliio
(Ii Caracalla—Sqmlcro di Cecilia ilIetella—Public Us-
trina—Scene of combat between the Horatii and Curiatii
—Basilica di S. Paolo—Cliiesa (12. S. Paolo alle tre F on-
tane—Ea‘cavations—Fontana della Dea Egeria—Cliiesa
di 8. Urbano alla Caﬁarella— 'empio di Redicolo—

Porta—Pia; Clii-esa di 8. AgnesemCliiesa (Ii S. Cos-lama.
—Hipp0(lrome—— Villa F aonte -— Ponte Lamenlano —-

Tomb of .Menenius Agrippa—Jlons Sacer—I’orta di

8. Lorenzo; Basilica di S. Lorenzo—Form ﬂIaggiore;

ancient Temples at the Tor dc” Sclziaz'i—Porz‘a S. Gio-

vanni—Aqueducts— Temple of Fort a nae malceb-ris—F arm

called Roma l'eccliia—Gates not already mentioned—

Bridges not already mentioned.

BEFORE I enter upon a description of Rome, I will
give a brief account of Siena, and other places, through

CHAP. VII. SIENA. 221

which we passed on our way from Florence to the ﬁrst-
named city.

Siena, formerly called Sena Julia, in honour of Caesar,
is by some authors supposed to have been an ancient town
of Etruria; while others attribute its foundation to the
Gauls who marched to Rome under the command of
Brennus. It stands on the acclivity of a Tufo-mountain;
or, perhaps, more properly speaking, the crater of an
extinct volcano; and once contained 100,000 inhabitants;
though its present population does not amount to a ﬁfth
part of that number. The buildings are handsome, and
the streets airy; but many of them so much up and down
bill as to be scarcely practicable for carriages. The wine,
water, bread, meat, and fruits, are excellent; the upper
classes of people well educated, pleasing, and remarkably
kind to Foreigners; and the Tuscan language is said to be
spoken here in its utmost perfection.

Some remains of the old walls of Siena are discoverable
near the church of S. Antonio; and several ancientgrot—
toes, cellars, subterranean aqueducts, and, as it were,

whole streets, excavated under the mountain, merit notice.
The Roman Gate is much admired.

The Cathedral, a master-piece of Gothic architecture,
encrusted without and within with black and white marble,
was erected about the year 1250: but, in 1284, the original
front was taken down, and that which now stands com-
menced, by Giovanni, Pisano, and ﬁnished by Agostino
and Agnolo, celebrated sculptors of Siena. Near the great
door are two vases for holy water; the one executed by
Giacomo della Quercia, the other an antique, found at the

mun-nur—

222 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

same time with the Graces; and both these vessels contain
marble ﬁsh, so well done that they appear to be swimming.
The pavement is reckoned one of the most curious works of
art in Italy; and consists of scriptural histories, wrought in
mosaic. The story of Moses was designed by Beccafumi,
surnamed Meccarino, and executed, by various artists,
about the middle of the sixteenth century. The story of
Joshua is by Duccio di Buoninsegna, Sanese. In this
pavement are likewise represented the emblems of cities
once in alliance with Siena, namely; the elephant of Rome
with a castle on its back—the lions of Florence and lVIassa
——the dragon of Pistoja—the hare of Pisa— the unicorn of
Viterbo—the, goose of Orvieto—the vulture of Volterra—
the stork of Perugia—the lynx of Lucea—the horse of
Arezzo—and the kid of Grossetto. Here also is the she-
wolf of Siena, borne in memory of Romulus and Remus.
This work appears to have been executed about the year
14:00. The pavement of the area, under the cupola, and
that before the high altar, representing Abraham’s intended
sacriﬁce of his son, are particularly celebrated; and the
latter is attributed to lVIeccarino. The art of paving in
this beautiful way, or, more properly speaking, of repre-
senting ﬁgures in black and white marble thus exquisitely,
is now lost. Near the. entrance of the choir are four large
frescos by Salimbeni. The Chigi-Chapel contains a copy,
in Roman mosaic, of a painting by Carlo lVIaratta; a statue
of the Magdalene, by Bernini; and three other statues,
by his scholars. The Chapel of S. Giovanni contains a
statue of that saint by Donatello ! This cathedral is adorned
with painted glass windows, executed in 15-19; and busts
of all the Popes, down to Alexander III: among these
formerly was the bust of Pope Joan; with the following
inscription under it; “ Johannes VIII, mez'na (Iv
Anglia.”

CHAP. VII.‘ SIENA. 223

Tﬁe Library or Sacristy, is now stripped of all its books,
except some volumes of church—music, well worth notice,
on account of the illuminations with which they are deco-
rated: here, likewise, is a celebrated antique group, in
marble, of the three Graces, which was found under the
church ; and on the walls are ﬁ‘escos representing the
principal transactions of the life of Pius II, by Pinturicchio,
after the designs of Raphael; the ﬁrst painting on the right
is said to have been wholly done by that artist.

The Tower qft/ze Palazzo della Signorz'a, vulgarly called
(Id ﬂIangz'a, and built by Agnolo and Agostino in 1325, is
a ﬁne piece of architecture.

T/zc C/mrclzcs qftlze Spczlalc di S. Illarz'a deZZa ScaZa—t/ze
Agostz'nz'ani—S. Martino dz' Provcnzmzo—S. Quz'rz'no, and
(Id Carmine ,- and tile C/mrc/z of tile Camaldolensi, on the
outside of the town, contain good pictures.

T/ze Church of S. Lorenzo is famous for an ancient
Roman Inscription, and a Well, at the bottom of which
is a sort of fountain, supported by columns that appear to
be of high antiquity: and the Domenicmz C/mrc/z contains
a painting of the Madonna with our Saviour in her arms,
executed by Guido di Siena in 1221, nineteen years before
the birth of Cimabue.

I 3

The Palazzo degli Eccelsi contains the Sala della Pace,
adorned with paintings which represent, on one side, the
recreations of Peace; and, on the other, Tyranny, Cruelty,
Deceit, and VVar; all done by Ambrogio, Sanese, in 1338
-—the Sala di Consiglio, where are paintings relative to the
history of Siena, by the same master, and other subjects,
by BartolL—the Sala di Balia, ornamented with paintings

224 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

which represent the life of Alexander III; and are highly
valuable because they exhibit the costume of the age in
which they were done; (they are of Giotto’s school)—the
Sala del Consistorio, embellished with some of Beccafumi’s
ﬁnest frescos, and the judgment of Solomon, by Luca
Giordano; with several other apartments, in which are
works of Salimbeni, Casolani, 8:0, The Theatre makes a
part of this palace, and is large and commodious.

The Fountain constructed in 1193, is so famous for the
quantity and quality of its water, as to be mentioned in the
Inferno of Dante: indeed, there are few cities, placed in so
elevated a situation as Siena, that can boast such abundance
of excellent water: and moreover, the climate, for persons
not aﬂlicted with weak lungs, is wholesome at all seasons
of the year—a recommendation which does not belong to
many cities of Italy *.

This town contains a celebrated University, several
Academies, valuable Libraries, bluseums, 8:0; and gave
birth to Gregory VII, and Alexander III, two of the
greatest Sovereigns who ever filled the Papal throne Jr.

The environs of Siena appear to contain several villas,
delightfully calculated for summer habitations: but Tra—
vellers should be especially careful not to ﬁx themselves
near the Marenma; a considerable tract of country, si-
tuated near the sea, and deemed particularly unwholesome
now; though heretofore remarkably populous.

* Siena boasts another recommendation, it is exempt from
gnats ; as, generally Speaking, are all the elevated parts of this
country.

T The best Inns at Siena are, the zllbergo d’I/Ig/zilterra, and-
the Aquila Nara ,- the latter is very comfortable.

3L3!"-

CHAP. vu. RADICOFANI. 225

Beyond Siena, some leagues to the left of the high-road,
lies Chiusi, the ancient Clusz'um, near the Lake of Chiana,
formerly Clam'us: but this city, once Porsena’s capital, is
at present thinly peopled, on account of its noxious air.

Buonconvento, pleasantly situated on the Ombrone,
about ﬁfteen miles from Siena, is likewise infected with
malaria .- and here the Emperor, Henry VII, was poisoned
by receiving the sacrament from a Domenican monk.

San-Quirico, placed in a healthy air, amidst olive-trees
and vineyards, contains a small Gothic Church, the nave
and choir of which merit notice; a Palace belonging to the
Chigi-family; a curious Well, opposite to the palace, and
an ancient square Tower, supposed to be of Roman origin.

Near the mountain of Radicofani the soil is volcanic, and
the country wild and desolate: the road, however, is excel-
lent; the ascent five miles in length, and the descent the
same. Radicofani, which rises 2WD feet above the level of
the lVIediterranean sea, exhibits, on its summit, large heaps
of stones, supposed to be the mouth of an extinct volcano.
The post-house, not far distant from this spot, is a good
inn; and the little fortress near it, was once called impreg-
nable; though now falling to decay. This is the frontier
of Tuscany; and at the foot of the mountain, on the way to
T orrecelli, the road traverses a torrent, someﬁmes dangerous
after rain. Beyond Torrecelli is Ponte-Centino, the ﬁrst
village of the Ecclesiastical State: this country is embel-
lished with woods, and a ﬁne bridge, thrown across the
Paglia.

To the next town, Aqua-Pendente, the approach is par-
ticularly beautiful: this was the Aquula of the ancients;

Q

2% TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

and derives its appellation from the water-falls in its
vicinity.

Hence, the road traverses a fertile volcanic plain to San
Lorenzo-nuovo ; a remarkably well-constructed, clean, and
pretty village; which possesses the advantages of wholesome
air and good water; and was built by Pius VI; that the
inhabitants of what is nd( called San Lorenzo-rovinato
might remove hither, in order to avoid the pcstilential
atmosphere of the latter place.

Not far distant from S. Lorenzo-nuovo is Bolsena, sup—
posed‘ to stand upon the site of the ancient Volsz'm'um ,- one
of the principal cities of Etruria; and whence the Romans,
265 years before Christ, are said to have removed two
thousand statues to Rome. Here are remains of a Temple,
supposed to have been dedicated to the goddess Narsia;
Etruscan ornaments, which adorn the front of the parochial
Church; and, opposite to this ediﬁce, a Sarcophagus of
Roman workmanship. In the environs are remains of an
Amphitheatre; together with an immense quantity of
broken cornices, capitals of pillars, ancient mosaics, &c.
Bolsena, now an unimportant village, is seated on a mag-
niﬁcent Lake, of the same name, anciently called Lacus
Vulsinus, and thirty-ﬁve Roman miles in circumference:
this Lake contains two small Islands; both of them in—
habited ; and said, by Pliny, to have ﬂoated in his time;
though now, they are ﬁxed‘: it is supposed to be the
crater of a volcano. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the
views in this neighbourhood; but the air is unwholesome.

Near Bolsena is Orvieto, celebrated for the excellence of
its wines; and containing a handsome Gothic Cathedral:
adorned, on the outside, with sculpture, by Niccolo, Pisauo;

 

CHAP. vn. VITERBO. 227

and embellished within, by a painting of Signorelli’s, which

Buonaroti particularly admired.

Between Bolsena and Monteﬁascone the road passes
close to a remarkable hill, covered with regular prismatic
basaltine columns, most of them standing obliquely, and a
considerable length out of the ground: indeed, the whole
country, so far as Blonteﬁascone, exhibits rocks of basalt,
interspersed with forest-scenery.

Not far from the just-named hill, is an ancient Tomb;
erected, according to the inscription it bears, by L. Ca-
nuleius, for himself and his family.

Monteﬁascone, a ﬁnely situated, though not a handsome
town, produces such excellent wine, that a German Tra-
veller, a Prelate, died from drinking it to excess.

Between Monteﬁascone and Viterbo the country is dreary:
and near the latter town, on the right, is a Lake of hot
water; the exhalations from which are sulphureous.

Viterbo, supposed to have been the ancient metropolis of
Etruria, called Volturna, is situated at the base of I\Ionte-
Cimino, anciently ﬁlons—Cz'mz’nus; and encompassed by
walls ﬂanked with towers, which give it, at a distance,
a splendid appearance. This city, which contains about
13,000 inhabitants, is well built, well paved, and adorned
with a ﬁne gate, erected by Clement XIII *.

The road from Viterbo to Ronciglione traverses part of

* There are two Hotels, both tolerably comfortable, at Vi-
terbo.
Q 2

 

228 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. cu.xp.vn.

the Monte-Cimino, amid ﬂowers, odoriferous herbs, oaks,
chestnuts, and Other forest-trees; and at the base of this moun-
tain, near Ronciglione, is the Lake of Vice, anciently Lacus-
Cimz'nus, encircled with richly wooded hills, and forming a
beautiful basin of nearly three miles in circumference, said
to have been the funnel of a volcano; and where, as tradi-
tion reports, a city once stood.

Nine leagues from Viterbo, but not in the high—road, is
Corneto; remarkable for the number of Etruscan antiqui—
ties which have been, and still are to be found in its vicinity:
and one league north of Corneto is a hill, called Civita—
Turchino, upon which the ancient Tarquz'm'um is supposed
to have stood. Several little eminences lie between this hill
and the town of Corneto; and those which have been opened
exhibit subterraneous rooms cut in the tufo, lined with
stucco, and ﬁlled with Etruscan vases and sarcophagi.

Ronciglione is situated near a picturesque valley, in
a barren soil; where agriculture seems almost wholly ne-
glected; and where the Campagna di Roma begins to feel
the inﬂuence, during hot weather, of that wide-spreading
and incomprehensible pest, illalarz'a.

Near Monterosi (IlIons Erosus) is a sheet of lava; and,
not far hence, the Perugia and Siena roads join; falling
into the Via-Cassia, which wants repair.

Boccano, seated near a Lake of the same name, the ex-
halations from which are very noxious, is two posts from
Rome; and here the cupola of S. Peter’s may be discovered.
It is conjectured that the ancient city of Veiz' stood in the
forest of Boccano, eighteen miles from Rome, on the right
of the VimCassia. I

can». v11. . ROME. 229

No country can be more dreary, nor more totally ne-
glected, than that which lies between Boccano and the Ponte-
Molle: but, from the heights near this bridge, Rome pre-
sents herself to View; gradually expanding, more and more,
as the road descends to the banks of the Tiber.

Between Boccano and the Ponte-Molle is the tomb of C.
1"z'bius .ZlIarz'anus.

The Panic—DIOZZE, anciently Pans M'lm'us, was built by
BI. Emilius Scaurus; and is celebrated for the vision seen
here by Constantine; and the victory gained by that Prince
over the Tyrant Maxentius; who was drowned in the river,
near this spot.

The approach to Rome is by the I/E'a—Flamz'nz'a, between
the Pincian and the lVIarian hills"; and, about two miles
and a quarter from the Pontc-Molle, cut out of rocks which
overlook the Via-Flaminia, is 1726 Nasom'an Sepulchre,- and
near the Porta del Popolo, toward the Porta-Pinciana, is
the Alum-form, a part of the city-wall, which declines from
its perpendicular, and supposed, by some persons, to have
been the Sepulchre of the Domitian Family, where the ashes
of Nero: were deposited.

Nothing,
entry into Rome through the Porta del P013010,- a gate
erected originally by Aurelian (when he enclosed the
Campus lVIartius), and called Portus-Flamiizz‘us. The out-

side of the present gate was built by Vignola; and the in-

of its kind, can be more magniﬁcent than the

side ornamented by Bernini.

* Three roads led from Rome to Lombardy; the Flaminian
along the Adriatic; the Aurelian along the Mediterranean ; and
the Cassian between these two, through the interior of the
country.

230 ‘ TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

Rome has suffered so grievously from volcanic eruptions,
earthquakes, and the frequent ravages of invading armies,
that even the surface of the ground on which it originally
stood is completely altered; insomuch that, on digging deep,
it is common to discover columns, statues, fragments of
ediﬁces, and sometimes even the pavement of the ancient
city, from twenty to thirty feet under ground. The stu-
pendous common sewers, through which the offal of Rome
was conveyed into the Cloaca-maxz'ma, are many of them
choked up; and even the Cloaca-maxz'ma itself is in bad
order; this causes pestilential air; and theaworkmen who,
by digging deep, have opened apertures to the above—men—
tioned common sewers, not unfrequently have lost their
lives from the putrid effluvia. In the neighbourhood of
Rome all the land is ill-cultivated and worse drained; so
that fogs and noxious vapours prevail there during night: it
likewise abounds with Sulphur, arsenic, and vitriol: hence,
therefore, in some measure, perhaps, may arise that malaria
which never affected ancient Rome; because these minerals
were either unknown to its inhabitants, or suffered to remain
buried in the bowels of the earth. The temperature of the
seasons also seems to be changed; for Horace gives us to
understand that, in his time, the streets of Rome, during
winter, were ﬁlled with ice and snow: and it appears, from
J uvenal, that to see the Tiber frozen over was not uncom-
mon: whereas, at present, it is deemed extraordinary for
snow to lie three days in any part of the cit Y; and, respect-
ing the Tiber, no person recollects to have seen it frozen.
These circumstances, added to the want of trees to agitate
and improve the air, concur to account for the present un-
healthiness of some parts of Rome, and nearly all its Cam-
pagna, during summer: beside which, the mouth of the
Tiber is choked with mud and sand; while its bed has been
considerably narrowed by ﬁlth and rubbish, thrown from
the houses situated on its banks; so that a strong south wir. d

CHAP. vu. ' ROME. 281
often makes it overﬂow, and inundate the city and its envi-
rons—Could this river be turned into another channel, and
the present bed cleansed and deepened, what an advantage
might Rome derive in point of healthfulness; and what a
harvest to Antiquaries might the river’s bed afford“ —So
unwholesome now is the Campagna di Roma in July and
August, that, during these months, it is dangerous to sleep
within twenty miles of the city: Rome itself, however, even
at this season, is not usually visited by Malaria, either on the
Corso, the Quirinal Hill, or the streets comprised within
the Rioni Monti, Trevi, Colonna, Campo—Marzo, Ponte,
Parione, Regola, S. Eustaeio, Pigna, and S. Angelo: but at
this season the climate is oppressively hot; though, during
winter and spring, temperate and delightful.

The ancient Romans had aqueducts sufﬁcient to convey
daily to the city eight hundred thousand tons of water: the
three principal aqueducts now remaining are, that of the
Acqua-Vergz'ne; that of the Aqua-Felice,- and that of the
Aqua-Paulina : the ﬁrst was repaired by Paul IV, and dis-
charges itself into the Fontana di Trevi: the second comes
from the neighbourhood of Palastrina, twenty-two miles
distant from Rome, and is one of the many works which do
honour to the reign of Sextus V, who expended a million of
scudi in repairing it: this aqueduct discharges itself into the
Fontana. di Termine. The third, which derives its name
from its Restorer, Paul V, is separated into two channels;

* Beside sixty colossal statues which adorned ancient Rome,
her streets and forums were lined with portieos, supported by
columns of marble, and embellished with busts and statues in-
numerable; and a large portion of these precious remains of
antiquity is supposed to have been thrown into the Tiber.

So numerous were the marble columns in Rome that a tax

was put upon them.

232 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

one of which supplies Monte-Gianicolo, and the other the
Vatican: it comes thirty miles; and principally discharges
itself into the fountain near the church of S. Pietro-Mon—
torio.

Rome, during the reign of Valerian, was surrounded by a
wall, said 'to have been ﬁfty miles in circumference *: and
the number of inhabitants, during its most ﬂourishing state,
was, by some authors, computed at four millions +. Modem
Rome is not above thirteen miles in circumference; and con-
tains scarce 160,000 inhabitants: but reduced as this an-
cient lVIistress of the world now is, in size and population,
reduced too as her Papal throne has been in wealth and
power, still, the matchless frescos of Raphael, Buonaroti,
Daniello da Volterra, Giulio Romano, Annibale Caracci,
Guido, Domenichino, Guercino, &c., are unalienably hers:
still the master-pieces of Grecian sculpture adorn her mu—
seums; still her stately palaces, noble churches, beautiful
fountains, gigantic columns, stupendous obelisks, and peer-
less Coliseum, entitle her to be called the most magniﬁcent
city of Europe, and the unrivalled Mistress of the Arts !—-
Her streets, nevertheless, are ill paved and dirty; while
ruins of immense ediﬁces, which continually present them-
selves to View, give an impression of melancholy to every
thinking spectator.

The society at Rome is excellent; and the circumstance

* The upper ranks of ancient Romans do not appear to have
resided so much in the city as in villas not far distant: and this
wall of ﬁfty miles in circumference might probably enclose the
suburbs of Rome, which must, judging from the remains now
left, have been very extensive.

1' Tacitus says, the Emperor Claudius made a lustrum, by
which the number of inhabitants was found to be sixty-eight
classes, consisting of one hundred and sixty—four thousand each.

CHAP. v11. ROME. 9233
of every man, whether foreigner or native, being permitted
to live as he pleases, without exciting wonder, contributes
essentially to general comfort. At Home, too, every person
may ﬁnd amusement: for whether it be our wish to dive
deep into classical knowledge, whether arts and sciences be
our pursuit, or whether we merely seek for new ideas and
new objects, the end cannot fail to be obtained in this most
interesting of cities, where every stone is an historian: and
though Home has, in some respects, suffered from her late
Rulers, the French, she is, in other respects, obliged to them;
as they removed the earth with which time had buried part
of the Coliszeum; disencumbered the Temple of Vesta from
the plaster-walls which destroyed its beauty; excavated the
Forum of Trajan, the Baths of Titus, and the lower parts of
the Temples of Concord and Jupiter-Tonans; removed,
from the foundations of the arches of Septimius Severus
and Constantine, the earth and rubbish by which they were
concealed, and ridded the Temple of Peace of an immense
collection of earth, which entombed nearly one-third of its

remains.

I will now endeavour to point out the most convenient
way of visiting the Antiquities, Churches, Palaces, 8:0. ;
mentioning the objects best worth notice only; in order to
prevent Travellers from wasting their time, and burdening
their memory, by a minute survey of what is not particu-
larly interesting; and thereby, perhaps, depriving themselves
of leisure to examine what really merits the closest attention.
I shall begin with the Antiquities; previously observing, that
whoever wishes to see these wrecks of ancient splendour to
advantage, should visit them, for the ﬁrst time, by the mild
and solemn light of the moon; which not only assimilates
with fallen greatness, but throws every defect into shadow;
leaving Imagination to supply every beauty, and array e'irery
object in its pristine garb of magniﬁcence.

234 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vn.

Faro-Romano. There were two kinds of Forums in
Rome, Fora Cz'm'lz'a, and Fora Venalz’a ,- the former serving
as ornaments to the City, and likewise as Courts of Justice;
the latter as Market-places. The Forum Romanum was
of the ﬁrst kind; and here stood the Comitium and the
Rostra. The Comitium was a large apartment, for a con-
siderable period, open at the top; it contained the tribunal,
and ivory chair, whence the Chief—lVIagistrate administered
justice. The Rostra was so called because this building
contained an Orator’s pulpit, garnished with beaks of ves-
sels, taken, by the Romans, from the People of Antium *.
The Forum Romanum is supposed to have extended, in
length, from the Chiesa della Consolazione to that of S.
Adriano; and, in breadth, from the three Columns, called
the Temple of Jove Stator, to the triumphal Arch of Sep—
timius Severusf. It was built by Romulus, and surrounded
with porticos by Tarquinius Priscus: little, however, now
remains to be seen, except heaps of ruins, and piles of vege-
table earth; the immense accumulation of which cannot be
accounted for. The V z'a-Sacm, so called in consequence of
the peace concluded between Romulus and Tatius, and the
sacriﬁces offered to the gods on that occasion, traversed the
Forum Romanum, from the side near the Colisaeum to the
Arch of Septimius Severus; and in the middle of this Forum
was the Lacus—Curtz'us ,- whence the ﬁne alto-rilz'evo in the
V illa-Borghese is said to have been taken 1‘.

Tcmpio (Ii Gz'ove Tonante. This beautiful ediﬁce was built
by Augustus, in consequence of his escape from lightning.

=“ The Latin word for ship-beaks is rostra.
' f A distance of about 750 feet one way, and 500 the other.
t Rome is supposed to have been built in the mouth of an
extnct volcano : and this opinion seems justiﬁed by the story of
Cutius, and the account of the manner in which the Temple of

Peace was (lustroyed.

CHAP. v11. ROME. 235

Only three columns, with part of the frieze, now remain;
and on the side of the latter are sacriﬁcial instruments in
basso-relicvo, namely; the pweﬁculum, the patera, the asper—
gillum, the securz's and culter, together with the alboga-
lems, a cap resembling a bishop’s mitre, supposed to have
been worn by the priests of Jove.

T empio della Concordia. F urius Camillus erected this
temple, in consequence of the reconciliation he effected be-
tween the Senate and people of Rome: it was consumed by
ﬁre, and rebuilt; but the portico only is remaining now;
and consists, in front, of six Ionic granite columns, whose
bases and capitals are white marble, with one column on
each side. In this temple Cicero convoked the Senate which
condemned Lentulus and Cethegus, the accomplices of
Catiline.

Arno dz' Settimo Severe, erected A. D. 205, in honour of
the Emperor and his Sons, by the Senate and people of
Rome. This arch was originally adorned with a triumphal
car and six horses: in the car were two ﬁgures* ; on each
side was a foot soldier; and on each extremity of the attic,
a soldier on horseback. The bassi—rz'lz'evz' on the arch record
the victories of Severus over the Parthians, and other un-
civilized nations. 7

Tcmpz'o dz' Saturno, now C/zz'esa 612' S. Adriano. This
temple, during the time of the Republic, was the treasury:
but scarce any part of the original building now remains,
except its brazen gate, which adorns the church of S.
Giovanni in Laterano. The situation of the Chiesa di S.
Adriano merits notice; as, before it, stood, according to
Tacitus, the famous golden column, erected by Augustus,
and called Mz'llz'arz'um aureum ,- whence the distance to every
province was measured; and which is said to have been

#-
Probably the Sons of the Emperor; because he was pre-
vented, by the gout, from assisting in the triumphal procession.

236 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

placed in the centre of ancient Rome. From this column
the Roman roads branched off, in straight lines, to all parts
of Italy.

Colonna dz' P/zocas. This column, supposed originally to
have adorned an ancient ediﬁce, was erected, in the seventh
century, on its present site, in honour of the Emperor
Phocas, whose statue of bronze gilt is said to have stood on
the top of the pillar.

Tempz'o di Antonino Pio e Faustz'na, built A.D. 168, by
the Senate and people of Rome, in memory of their Emperor,
Antoninus Pius, and his Consort, Faustina. The portico
of this temple, now the Chiesa di S. Lorenzo in Miranda, is
adorned with ten Corinthian-columns of marble, called, by
the Romans, Cipollino: the sides of the portico seem ori—
ginally to have been incrusted with marble, now taken
away; but a frieze of white marble, adorned with grifﬁns,
&c., still remains, and proves the ancient magniﬁcence of
the building.

Tempio (Ii Gz'ove Stat07'*. On the north side of the Via-
Sacra, toward the Palatine hill, stand three beautiful columns
of white marble, supposed to have been part of the portico
of a temple consecrated to the above-named deity by Romu-
lus, on the spot where he rallied his soldiers who ﬂed from
the Sabines. Some persons suppose the Comz'tium to have
made part of this ediﬁce; but, be that as it may, the now
remaining part must have been rebuilt when architecture
was in much higher perfection than during the days of
Romulus.

Chiesa di S. ﬁlaria Liberatrz'ce. This church is supposed
to stand on the site of the original temple of Vesta, erected
by Numa, and bordering on the Lacus-Curtz'us. Near this
church, likewise, are ruins of a square brick ediﬁce, erected

by Tullus Hostilius, and called Curia Hostz'lia: and on this

* Stator, (ararwg) he who makes to stop, or stand.

CHAP. v11. HOME. 237

side of the Forum the Rostra*, the Temples of Augustus,
and Castor and Pollux, together with the Basilica of Porcius,
are all supposed to have stood.

Tempz'o dz' Romolo e Remo, now Clzz'csa de’ S. S. Cosimo e
Damiano. The bronze door, marble door-case, and por-
phyry columns, which adorn the outside of this building,
appear to be antique; as does the rotunda which serves as
a vestibule: but the body of the church seems to have been
erected about the time of Constantine. In this temple was
a pavement containing the plan of Rome, cut on white mar-
ble, probably in the reign of Septimius Severus and Cara-
calla; which plan, mutilated and unmethodised, is now ﬁxed
in the staircase of the Museum of the Capitol. The subter-
ranean part of this temple merits notice.

Tempz'o della Pace. Vespasian, after terminating the war
with Judea, raised this vast ediﬁce upon the foundation of
the portico of Nero’s golden house, about the year 75: it
was deemed the most magniﬁcent temple of ancient Rome;
being of a quadrangular form, three hundred feet long, and
two hundred feet broad. It consisted of three naves, with
three tribunes on each side: it Was incrusted with bronze
gilt, adorned with stupendous columns, and enriched with
thelﬁnest statues and pictures of the Grecian school; parti-
cularly the celebrated work done by Protogenes, for the
Rhodians, and representing the story of Ialusus. Pliny
likewise places here, the statue of the Nile with sixteen
children; probably that which now enriches the Vatican.
The citizens deposited their wealth in this temple: and here,
likewise, Titus Vespasian placed the spoils of Jerusalem: in
short, it served as a public treasury, till about an hundred
years after its foundation, when the whole building, with all

* Pliny informs us, that the ﬁrst sun-dial, set up for public

use at Rome, was likewise placed on this spot, about the year
U. C. 491.

238 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAI’. VII.

the precious contents, are said to have been destroyed by ﬁre,
which issued suddenly from the bowels of the earth: and
this record of the entire destruction of the temple, added to
an idea that the style of architecture is not good enough for
the days of Vespasian, has lately induced several persons to
conjecture that these ruins, called the temple of Peace, are,
in fact, the remains of the Basilica of Constantine, which
stood near the Colisaeum. Little now can be traced of the
building in question, except three immense arches, or tri—
buncs, with part of the walls and roof, niches for statues,
and doors of communication: but what serves to convey
some idea of the grandeur of this ediﬁce is one of the eight
columns with which its interior was dccorated, namely, a
ﬂuted Corinthian shaft of white marble, sixteen feet and a.
half in circumference, and, without base or capital, forty—
eight feet high: it now stands before the church of S. Maria
lVIaggiore *.

T empz'o dz' Vencrc e Roma, near tile C/zz'esa (11' S. Francesco
Romano. This double temple had two fronts; and each
front had a portico adorned with columns of rare marble;
There are considerable remains of this temple; namely, two
tribunes, great part of one of the side-walls, and the founda-
tion and broken pillars of one of the porticos; all of which
indicate that the ediﬁce must have been extremely magni-
ﬁcent: it was built after the designs of the Emperor Adrian;
and the manner in which the roofs of the tribunes were stuc-
coed and ornamented resembles the style in which the re—
maining roofs of his villa near Tivoli were adorned.

Arco (12' Tito, built by the Senate and people of Rome,

* I presume not to judge whether these ruins did, or did not,
make part of the Temple of Peace : but the ediﬁce certainly ap-
pears to have been built in a style much superior to that usually
adopted in the days of Constantine, and very similar to the
Temple of Venus and Home. Perhaps the excavations now
making may throw light upon this subject. '

CHAP. vn. ROME. 239

and dedicated to Titus in honour of his conquest of Jerusa-
lem. It consists of one large arch, over which is an attic
story. Each front was originally adorned with four ﬂuted
composite columns. On the frieze is represented Titus’s
triumphal procession, together with the image of a river-god,
probably the Jordan. Under the arch, on one side, is the
Emperor seated in a triumphal car, conducted by the Genius
of Rome, and attended by Victory; who is crowning him
with laurels. On the other side of the arch are the spoils of
the temple of Jerusalem, namely; the table of the shew—bread;
the seven-branched golden candlestick; the silver trumpets;
&c. These, no doubt, were copied from the originals; and
are therefore the only faithful representations extant of these
sacred Jewish antiquities. The deiﬁcation of Titus is“ repre-
sented on the roof of the inside of the arch. This ediﬁce
was nearly destroyed, that its ornaments might be placed
upon the arch of Constantine : but, nevertheless, enough
remains to prove that it was tne most beautiful building of
its kind ever erected " I

Colosseo. This vast and majestic ediﬁce is supposed to
have derived its name of Colisccmn from a colossal statue,
one hundred and twenty feet high, of Nero, in the character
of Apollo; which was placed here by Titus Vespasian ; who,
on the day when it first opened, is said to have had ﬁve
thousand wild beasts killed in its arena 1'. The building
was erected by Flavius Vespasian; and is supposed to stand
where once were the ﬁsh-ponds of N ero: it consists of four
stories, namely; three rows of porticos, raised one above the
other, and terminated by a lofty circular wall. The ﬁrst
story is adorned with Doric columns, the second with Ionic,
the third with Corinthian columns, and the fourth with

* Judea is always represented, on the medals struck by Titus, ’
as a woman sitting on the ground in a posture denoting sorrow.

1~ So called, because strewed with sand, that the blood of the
slain might not make the place slippery.

240 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

pilasters, between which are windows: the shape is an oval,
computed to be one thousand six hundred and forty-one
feet in circumference, and one hundred and ﬁfty-seven feet
in height. The arena, likewise, is an oval, of two hundred
and seventy-eight feet long, by one hundred and seventy—
seven wide. The materials of which the ediﬁce is chieﬂy
composed are immense blocks of Tavertine stone, originally
ﬁxed together with bronze cramps, now taken away. The
entrances were eighty in number, seventy-six being for the
people, two for the Gladiators, and two for the Emperor
and his suite: and within the walls were twenty staircases,
leading to seats appropriated to the different classes of spec-
tators. Round the arena was a high wall; immediately
above which stood the podium, or balcony, for the Emperor,
and the seats for the Vestal Virgins, Senators, and Blagi-
strates entitled to curule chairs; and behind these seats rose
others, in four divisions, the last of which were appropriated
to the populace. The seats are supposed to have contained
eighty-seven thousand spectators ; and the portico or gallery
above them twenty thousand. There was an awning which
stretched over the whole ediﬁce, in Case of rain, or too in-
tense heat: and in the wall of the uppermost story are square
holes supposed to have contained the rings for fastening the
cords of this awning. The arches of the ﬁrst row ofpor—
ticos are numbered on the outside; probably to enable the
various classes of spectators to ﬁnd, without difﬁculty, their
destined place. Two gates led into the arena; the one being
opposite to the Temple of Venus and Rome, the other 011
the side of the ZlIons-Ccelius ,- and, near the latter entry,
Pius VII, has recently raised a noble buttress, to prevent
this part of the Colisaeum from falling. Soldiers, likewise,
are constantly stationed here, to guard the ediﬁce from
mischief; and also to protect Travellers, who may wish to
examine this stupendous pile by moonlight.

Near the Colisaeum, toward the Via-Sacra, are remains of

CHAP. v11. ROME. 241

3. Fountain called the Meta Sudante; which supplied the
persons who assisted at the shows with water; and might,
perhaps, be used in ﬁlling the arena for the Naumac/ziw fre-
quently exhibited there.

Arco dz' Costantz'no, dedicated to that Emperor by the
senate and people of Rome, in memory of his victory over \
Maxentius at the Ponte—Molle. This arch stands at the‘
junction of the Celian and Palatine hills, in the Via-Appia:
and is the most splendid, because the best preserved ediﬁce,
of its kind, remaining in Rome. It has, on each side, four
ﬂuted Corinthian columns, seven being giallo antico, and
one white marble; and on the pilasters, above these columns,
are statues of Dacian warriors. The bassi—rz'lievi on the
frieze, representing the conquest of Verona, and the victory
at the Ponte-Molle, together with the four ﬁgures of Fame,
and the two medallions on the sides of the arch, are proofs
of the decline of sculpture under Constantine: the other
bassi—7‘ilievz', two excepted below the great arcade (which
were also done in the time of Constantine), are ﬁnely exe-
cuted, and supposed to have been taken either from the Arch
or Forum of Trajan. One of these, fronting the Colisaeum,
represents the triumphalientry of Trajan into Rome; and
another, on the opposite side, represents him in the act of
offering the sacriﬁce called Suovetaurz'lz'a. The Statues of
Dacian warriors, the Columns of giallo antico, and all the
Cornices, were taken from the Arch of Trajan.

Citiesa, (11' S. Teodoro. Immediately behind the Forum
Romanum, on the way to the Forum Boarz'um, stands this
small Rotunda, anciently the Temple of Romulus; and
erected on the spot where he was discovered. The bronze
wolf, now preserved in the Capitol, originally enriched this
temple*.

* Venuti says, this Temple Was preserved a great while in its
R

/

242 . TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

Arco dz' Settimo Severo an Velabrzim. This Arch was
erected by the Argentariz', bankers, and merchants of the
Forum Boarz'um, to Septimius Severus, his Empress, Julia,
and their Son, Caracalla. The sculpture resembles, in style,
that on the triumphal arch of Severus. Adjoining to this
Arch, is the Church of S. Gemgz'o in V elaln'o, supposed to
stand on the site of the Basilica, of Swnprom'us.

Arco dz' Giana Quadrjfronte. This building, composed
of immense blocks of white Greek marble, was once adorned
with columns, which have disappeared. The brick-work
above the cornice is of the middle age. The ediﬁce seems
originally to have been either a market-house, or an ex-
change, of which there were several in ancient Rome, almost
every Forum being provided with one of them *.

To the left of the Arch of Janus Quadrifrons is a small
stream of limpid water; which discharges itself into the
Cloaca Maxima; and which, tradition reports to be the
Lake of Jutzmza, where Castor and Pollux were seen to
water their horses after the battle at the Lacus—Regillus.

Cloaca-Maa'ima. This great common sewer was con-
structed, by Tarquinius Priscus, of rude stones, regularly
placed, but without cement, and forming three rows of
arches: it entered the Tiber between the P0725-Se7zatorz'us
and the Temple of Vesta; and its mouth may be discovered
when the river is low. Part of this building lies close to
the Arch of Janus 1L.

original state of simplicity; by way of recalling to the remem-
brance of the Romans, the simple manners of their ancestors.

* There were, in this quarter, beside the Forum Boarizmz, the
Forums OIz'torium, and Pescatorium.

T Pliny says, that the Cloacar, or Common Sewers, were the
most surprising public works at Rome ; being cut through hills,
and under the very foundations of the city; and, moreover, so
spacious that. a cart loaded with hay might pass through them.

CHAP. v11. ROME. 243

Near to the Palatine, or Senatorian Bridge, now called
the Ponte-Rotta, are remains of an ediﬁce, denominated
the House of Pilate, but really that of Nicholas Crescens,
supposed to have been the son of Pope John X.

C722'esa dz' S. Maria in Cosmedz'n, conjectured to be the
Temple of Chastity, erected by Virginia, the wife of Volum-
nius. This ediﬁce stands a little to the left of the Temple
of Jupiter Stator: in the portico is an ancient mask; pro-
bably intended as the ornament of a fountain; but, in con-
sequence of an idea once prevalent among the populace,
that oracles issued from it, called Bocca della Veritti.
Judging by the ﬁne antique marble columns, built up in the
walls of this church, the ediﬁce must have been originally
large and handsome; the pavement consists of porphyry
and other precious marbles; [the high altar is adorned with
an ancient bath or sarcophagus of red Egyptian granite;
and in the tribuna is an ancient pontiﬁcal chair.

The ﬁrst Custode of Arcadia, Giovanni Mario Crescim-
beni, was buried in this church; his monument is near the
great door.

Tempz'o (1i Vesta, now C/zz'esa dz' S. Maria del Sole.
\Vhen this Temple was erected is unknown; but it is said
to have been repaired by Domitian. Here are nineteen
beautiful Corinthian ﬂuted columns of Parian marble,
which stand on several steps, and form a circular portico
round a Cella, likewise circular; the wall of which is also
composed of blocks of Parian marble; and so exquisitely
are these materials joined, that they appear to be only one
piece. The ancient roof was bronze, but this, together with

Common sewers were unknown in Greece; and invented by
the Romans. The smaller Cloacce all communicated with the
Cloaca-Jllaacima: these Cloacw were continually cleansed, by
streams of water resembling rivers.

n 2

244 TRAVELS ON THE CVONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

the entablature, and one of the columns (for there were
twenty), can no longer be found. Here, according to some
opinions, the Vestal Virgins kept the celebrated Palladium
and the sacred ﬁre *.

Tempz'o dz' Fortuna Viriles, now Chiesa di S. llIarz'a
Egz'zzz'aca. This Temple is supposed to have been erected
by Servius Tullius; but the elegant ﬂuted columns with
which it is adorned prove that it must have been repaired
at a later period. It seems, like many of the ancient
Roman ediﬁces, to have suffered from ﬁre; in order to
conceal the effects of which, perhaps, the ﬁne stucco that
covers the columns and entablature might be employed.
The form of this temple is Grecian; the columns are Ionic;
and the ornaments of the cntablature, though injured by
time, are still visible.

Palazzo de’ Cesarz'. On the Mons Palatinus, where Ro-
mulus founded Rome, Augustus began, and Domitian
ﬁnished, the splendid Palace of her Emperors; which,
like a little city, covered the hill. The form of this
palace, nearly a parallelogram, may still be traced; and
ruins of one half are discoverable in the ()rti Farnesiani;
and of the other half in the Garden belonging to the
English College, the Convent of S. Bonaventura, and the
Garden of the Villa-Spada. The entrance seems to have
been from the V far-Sacra. The Gardens of Adonis, on
each side of which was a Hippodrome, belonged to this

* Vestal Virgins were so called from their goddess Vesta, or
ﬁre: Vesta being derived from the Hebrew root 12m ﬁre 5
whence the Greek Es'tac, ﬁre, and the Latin Vesta.

The Vestal Virgins were bound to keep the sacred ﬁre unex-
tinguished; and likewise to reconcile persons who quarrelled
with each other.

The temples of Vesta were always circular; perhaps in allusion
to the sun.

c HAP. vu. ’ ROME. 245
imperial residence; and the Claudian Aqueduct supplied it
with water.

In order to see every thing now remaining, the best way
is to drive'nearly up to the Arch of Titus, then turn to the
right, and, a little way on, is a gate, which opens into the
Orto Farnesiani. After entering this garden, and ascending
some steps that lead to three small dilapidated modern
ediﬁces, one of which, surmounted by a turret, contains
frescos, which, though much injured, merit notice, you are
presented with a beautiful view of the Temple of Peace:
and, further on, is the spot where the Arcadian Academy
originally assembled *, amidst ever-green oaks, wood-laurels,
and fragments of the entablature, frieze, cornices, and
capitals of columns, which seem to have once belonged to
the Temple of Apollo, built by Augustus, after the victory
of Actium: for, among the decorations of the frieze and
cornice, are grifﬁns and tridents interlaced with dolphins;
symbols of anaval triumph: and moreover, griﬂins were
consecrated to Apollo. These ﬁnely executed fragments
are now overgrown by the acanthus; which ﬂourishes here
so luxuriantly that one might fancy it planted on purpose
to point out the source of Corinthian architectural orna-
ments. Here lies neglected, on the grass, the original
medallion of the arms. of Arcadia, the Syrinx of Pan
encircled with pine and laurel; which medallion once
adorned the place of meeting. This garden likewise con-

* The Arcadian Academy, one of the most celebrated in Europe,
was founded in the year 1690, and warmly patronized by Christina
of Sweden and the Literati of her time. Its members, at the
commencement of the institution, met in the Farnese Garden;
and afterward at the Bosco Parrasio, on the Janiculum hill:
but, at present, they assemble in a house provided for them by
the Roman Government; and in which resides their Custodc
Genera/c, the learned and venerable Abate Godart.

246 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

tains two small subterranean Apartments, commonly called
1726 Baths (3fL2'vz'a; in which, by the aid of torches, remains
may be discovered of beautiful arabesques, and a con-
siderable quantity of gilding, bright as if just done: here
. also are small bassi-rz'lz'evi, in stucco. Beyond the Baths
of Livia is a dilapidated villa of modern date, adorned with
frescos ””3 probably by Raphael’s scholars: and from a
terrace here, the View of Rome, and its environs, is mag-
niﬁcent. Returning hence, and going round that part of
the garden which fronts the Capitol, you ﬁnd a considerable
number of subterranean buildings; some of which resemble
the Sette Salle belonging to Titus’s Baths; and might
probably, like them, have served as reservoirs for water.
This garden also contains ruins of the Theatre built by
Caligula; and a spacious Hall, the roof of which is well
preserved. ‘

On quitting the Orti Farnesiani, and continuing to
ascend the Palatine hill, you ﬁnd, on the left, the Chiesa di
S. Bonaventura; previous to reaching which, turn through
a gate-way, on the right, that leads to the Villa—Spada; a
modern ediﬁce, built on the foundations of some part of
the imperial residence; and probably that called Nero’s
golden House 1“. On entering this Villa, you ﬁnd a portico

* Among the frescos are two medallions representing the
story of Hercules and Cacus. The Cave of this famous robber,
according to the fable, stood between the Tiber and the Temple
of Hercules (now, according to some writers, the Church of
S. Alexius), on the Aventine Hill.

1- Nero's golden house (Domus Aztrca) joined the imperial
palace of Augustus ; and is supposed to have extended over the
whole of the Celian hill. Under the steeple of the Church of
S. John and S. Paul are Ruins of a noble Portico, which is said
to have belonged to this golden House : and foundations of
other buildings, which probably belonged to it likewise, may be

CHAP. vn. ROME. 247

adorned with frescos, all of which, except one that re-
presents Venus, and is attributed‘to Raphael, are by .Giulio
Romano; who has painted, on the roof, two small pictures,
representing Hercules, some of the Muses, and other
heathen divinities. The garden of the Villa contains three
ancient subterranean Apartments, which are beautiful in
point of architecture, and well preserved: they seem ori-
ginally to have been adorned with arabesques, judging from
the remains now distinguishable: and here was found the
superb basin of red porphyry which adorns the circular hall
in the Vatican Museum. Beyond these subterranean apart-
ments, and quite at the end of the garden, are a few
balustrades; said, by some authors, to mark the spot where
the signal for commencing the games in the Circus Maximus
was given. To the left of this spot is a large oblong Court,
supposed to have been a Hippodrome; and a magniﬁcent
Hall, the roof of which is entire, and decorated with me-
dallions in stucco *.

traced the whole way from the Villa-Spade. to the Esquiline
hill. It had a triple portico, supported by a thousand columns:
it contained accommodations for animals, both wild and tame ;
and in the vaulted roofs of the banqueting rooms were machines
of ivory that turned round, and, from pipes, scattered ﬂowers and
perfumes. The principal eatingr room was a rotunda, so con-
structed that it turned round night and day, in imitation of the
motion of the earth; and the baths were supplied with sea-
water, and the sulphureous waters of Albulae.

’7‘ The Villa Spada was shown to me, with great civility and
patience, by a man in appearance poverty-stricken; who, when
I oﬁ‘ered him the usual fee, and indeed strongly pressed him to
accept it, answered (while the blood mounted to his cheeks)
“I take no money; I am placed here, as a penance for my
sins; which are manifold. I have continued here three years;
how much longer I may be doomed to remain I know not 5 but
I can accept no gratuity whatsoever."

24:8 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARVII.

The Garden of the Convent of S. Bonaventura contains
ruins of the Aqueduct erected by Nero, as a continuation of
the Claudian aqueduct, to supply his golden house with
water.

From the Villa-Spada go back to the Arch of Titus,
pass that of Constantine; and, when nearly parallel with
the Church of S. Gregorio in Monte—Celio, turn to the
right, toward the Forum-Boarium, and you will ﬁnd a
door, leading, by a narrow ﬂight of steps, to what is now
called the Palazzo (Ze’ Cesarz', in the Garden ofthe English
College. Here are considerable vestiges of stately porticos,
spacious halls, and numberless arches, interspersed with
ever-green oaks, laurels, ﬂowering shrubs, aloes, and Indian
ﬁgs; forming altogether a most picturesque and impressive
scene. One part of these ruins completely overlooks the
Circus hiaximus, which lies immediately below it; and
here is a terrace, probably the site of the banqueting hall
of the Emperors, whence Nero threw down his napkin, as
the signal for beginning the games, when the populace were
clamorous for their commencement; and where Caligula,
on being roused from sleep, by a similar clamour, ordered
the Gladiators to drive away the people; in consequence of
which cruel command, several were killed. The ancient-
pavement of the terrace still remains entire: and from this
spot the continuation of the Claudian Aqueduct, by Nero,
may be seen to great advantage. Fragments of ancient
paintings are discoverable throughout all‘the ruins of the
Palazzo de’ Cesari.

Circus Maximus, made, by Tarquinius Priscus, between
the Palatine and Aventine hills. The length of this Circus
is computed to have been four stadia, or furlongs; and its
breadth the same: it contained a trench ten feet deep, and
as many broad, to receive water; together with seats for
one hundred and ﬁfty thousand spectators: it was much
beautiﬁed by succeeding princes; and particularly by Julius

 

:2
E
1'!
e?

CHAP. VII. ROME. ‘ 249

Caesar, Augustus, Caligula, Domitian, Trajan, and Helio-
gabulus ; and enlarged, to so vast an extent, as to receive,
in their respective seats, two hundred and sixty thousand
persons: its form, with the trench and water running through
its centre, may still be traced.

C/zz'esa di S. Gregorio nel Monte-Celia, said to be built on
the foundations of a Patrician house, and to retain its
ancient shape. This Church is ﬁnely situated; and in the
adjoining Garden are three Chapels, built by S. Gregorio.
The ﬁrst, dedicated to his mother, S.‘ Silvia, contains her
statue, by Niccolo Cordieri; frescos on the ceiling, by
Guido; and four saints in clzz'aro scum by the same master.
The second Chapel contains two celebrated frescos; the
one painted by Domenichino, the other by Guido, in order
to prove which was the better artist. That done by Dome—
nichino represents the ﬂagellation of S. Andrewll that by
Guido represents the same Saint going to suffer martyr-
domll The ﬁgures of S. Peter and S. Paul, near the
altar, are by Guido. The third Chapel contains a statue
of S. Gregorio, begun by Buonaroti, and ﬁnished by Cor-
dieri. This garden commands a beautiful View of the
Palace of the Caesars *.

Termc (lz' Tito. These Baths which, twenty years since,
were completely choked up with rubbish and vegetable
earth, apparently thrown in to destroy them, are now open
to the light of day; and exhibit beautiful frescos in as
perfect preservation as they could have been when ﬁrst pro-
duced by the artist’s pencil near two thousand years ago.
The Romans learnt the use of baths from the Greeks: and
though, at ﬁrst, employed merely for the purposes of health,

‘ By entering the quadrangle, and ringing a hell on the right,
you may always gain admittance to the Church and Chapels of

S. Gregorio: they are, during winter, damp and cold.

250 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

they, in time, became an object of luxury and magniﬁcence.
The Baths of Titus were smaller than those of Dioclesian
and Caracalla; but superior in point of architecture, and
more elegantly ornamented: the lower part of the ediﬁce
served for bathing; the upper part for academics and
gymnastic exercises. Communicating with the Baths are
ruins called the Palace of Titus; where the group of Lao—
eoon and his children was found: and, not far hence, the
Belvedere—Antinous, or, according to Visconti, Mercury,
was found likewise. Near this spot were the gardens of
Mmcenas ; in a building belonging to which Nero stood to
see Rome in ﬂames: and near this spot also were the houses
of Horace and Virgil *.

To the east of the Palace and Baths of Titus, and en-
closed within a garden, are immense reservoirs, called Settc
Selle; which evidently belonged to the Baths, and are in
tolerable preservation.

Clzicszz (Ii S. ll/Iartz'no in Monte. This beautiful Church,
not far distant from the Sette Salle, is erected upon that
part of the Baths of Titus which was added by Domitian
and Trajan: such, at least, seems to be the opinion of
antiquaries; because the brick-work, in these Baths, is very
inferior to that in the Baths built by Titus.

The modern ediﬁce is adorned with twenty—tour mag—
nificent columns, brought from Adrian’s Villa at T ivoli.
The high altar, erected about seventeen years ago, is
peculiarly rich in precious marbles; the paintings, which
adorn its vicinity, were done by Antonio Cavalluccio, who
lies buried here. The side aisles are embellished with
landscapes, by Gaspero Poussin; the ﬁgures in which are
by Niccolo PoussinI! and the upper landscapes are re—
markably well preserved. The Chapel of the Madonna, at

* The Baths of Titus are damp.

CHAP. v11. ROME. 25]

the end of the left side aisle, is ornamented with paintings
by Cavalluccio, andvery ﬁne marbles. The steps leading
down to the Burial-Place under the high altar, and the
burial-place itself, were designed by Pietro di Cortona:
and here are other stairs, leading to the ancient subter-
ranean Church, which is a part of the Baths, called those
of Titus, and famous for being the spot where Pope S. Sil—
vestro held a council, assisted by Constantine and his
mother. The mosaic pavement, and matted roof of the
baths (on which perhaps were paintings), still remain
perfect; as do the walls; and here you encounter no very
damp air; therefore, Invalids may go down with safety.

Cizz'esa di S. Pietro in V incolz'. This ﬁne Church, which
owes its present form to Antonio Sangallo, has a double
cupola, like that of S. Peter’s. The three aisles are divided
by twenty magniﬁcent Doric columns of Grecian marble,
taken from Dioclesian’s Baths: the circular wall, behind
the high altar, made a part of Titus’s Baths; whence the
pavement of the Sacristy likewise was taken. Here is
a picture of S. Agostino, by Guercino; and another of
S. l‘tIargherita, by the same master. Here also is the
hlonument of Julius II, designed: by Buonaroti, who died
soon after he had ﬁnished the much admired ﬁgure of
Bloses; in consequence of which the other ﬁgures were
done by Montelupo. The Monuments of Cardinals Mar—
gotti and Agucci were executed after the designs of Do-
menichino: and at the end of the tribuna is an ancient
pontifical chair in high preservation. The Sacristy con-
tains'a picture, by Domenichino, of S. Peter delivered from
prison.

Citiesa di S. Maria della Nam'cella, so called from the
model of an ancient galley, said to have been a votive
offering, and placed before it, by Leo X. This Church,
designed by Raphael, and supposed to stand on the site of

252 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT- CIIAP. VII.

the ancient Castra Peregrina, or barracks for auxiliary
soldiers, is embellished with ﬁne columns of porphyry and
granite, and a frieze beautifully painted in clzz'aro scum, by
Giulio Romano and Pierino del Vaga. The Presbytery,
likewise, was painted by the same artists; as were two
Altar-Pieces of the Chapels, one representing part of the
T ransﬁguration, the other the Baptism of our Saviour.

Near this spot is the Arch of the Consul Dolabella, over
which, Nero erected the Aqueduct that supplied his golden
House with water.

C/zz'esa (12' S. Stefano Rotondo, formerly the Temple of
Claudius. This beautiful and interesting ediﬁce was built
by Agrippina, in honour of her husband Claudius; de-
stroyed by Nero, and rebuilt by Vespasian; which accounts
for the columns not being uniform. It seems to have had
two entrances; The interior part still retains the precise
form, together with all the majesty of an ancient temple;
and is embellished with a double row of columns, ﬁfty-eight
in number, and chieﬂy granite. The roof is modern. T his
ediﬁce was converted into a Christian Church by Pope S.
Simplicius: it is, during winter, damp and cold *.

Obelisk oft/16 Piazza del Popolo ,- said to have been made
at Heliopolis, 522 years before the Christian mm. It was
brought to Home by Augustus; found in the Circus
lVIainnus; and placed in its present situation by Sixtus V.
Its height, from the ground to the top of the cross, is 112
feet.

To record the exploits of heroes, and to decorate their
temples and their tombs, seems to have been the origin of.

K The churches of La Navicella, and S. Stefano Rotondo, are
generally shut: but the Sacristan of the former lives in the
Vicinity ; and the Sacristan of the latter may be found daily, at

the new Academy of 5. Luke.

CHAP. v11. ROME. 253

Egyptian obelisks: and most of those which now adorn
Rome are engraved with hieroglyphics; which, could we
understand them, might throw important lights on the
history of past ages.

Obelisk (ft/1e Trinita de’ Monti. This Obelisk formerly
stood in the Circus of Sallust ; and was placed in its present
situation by Pius VI: it is forty-four feet and a half in
height, Without the pedestal, and of Egyptian granite *1

Villa-Medici, now the French Academy. On the back-
front of this Villa is a fine basso—rilievo of Hercules stran-
gling the Nemean lion. The Garden of the Villa-Medici is
always open to the public.

Statues, and Obelisk, in the Piazza di .Monte—Cavallo ,- so
called from the admirable sculpture with which it is embel-
lished; namely, two colossal ﬁgures, supposed to be Castor
and Pollux, each holding a horse. These twin-gods, the
work of Phidias and Praxiteles, are esteemed the ﬁnest
things of their description at Rome; especially that done
by the ﬁrst-mentioned artist. They once adorned Athens;
and are generally supposed to have been brought to Rome,
from Alexandria, by Constantine: though some authors
tell us, they were sent to Nero, as a present, from Tiridates
king of Arminia. The horses are ill executed, and chieﬂy
modern. The Obelisk, which stands between the statues,
was erected by Pius VI: it is composed of red granite;
measures forty-ﬁve feet, without the pedestal; and origin—
ally adorned the Mausoleum of Augustus 1-.

* The Promenade 0n the Trinita de’ Monti, begun by the
French, and now nearly ﬁnished by the present Pope, is the
pleasantest walk and drive at Rome.

1‘ The circular Basin belonging to the Fountain of Monte-
Cavallo is said to be the largest piece of granite of this descrip-

tion in Rome.

 

254 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

Chz'esa dz' S. Bernardo. This ediﬁce, the ancient form
and roof of which are quite perfect, merits notice, as be-
longing to Dioclesian’s Baths. Some persons suppose it to
have been a Caldarz'um, or hot bath; but the more general
opinion is, that this rotunda, and the one opposite to it,
near the Villa-Negroni, were temples dedicated to Apollo.
and Esculapius. The convent, and garden, of the Monks
of S. Bernardo, the church, convent, and garden of the
Carthusians, the public granaries, together with a large
space, called Piazza di Termini, which is a corruption of
the word T/zermce, all likewise belonged to Dioclesian’s
Baths; which building seems to have been nearly of a
square form, enclosing halls, where the youth were in-
structed; and where men of learning assembled to read
their compositions; an open theatre, where shows were
exhibited in ﬁne weather; the Natatz'o ,- the Sp/zmz'stev'z'um ,-
the Xystum; the Apodytcrz'um; the ngocausz‘um;_ and the
different baths, namely, ﬁ‘zgidarz'zmz, tepidarz'zmz, caldarz'zmz,
and laconic-um. Three sides of the Natatio, where people
swam in the open air, were bounded by porticos (it occu-
pied what is now the cloister of the Carthusians) ; on each
side of these porticos were Basilica, and Diwta’, where
public assemblies were held, and sumptuous entertainments
given: adjoining to these apartments was an oblong room,
probably the place for playing at ball*; and, immediately

* The ancient Romans played with several kinds of balls:
namely, the Harprestum, or foot—ball, which, being placed be-
tween two companies of young men,they strove who should drive
it through the others’ goal: the P170, so called from being stuffed
with hair: the F 01153, so called from being made of a bladder;
and with this, old men and young children played : the Pagaizz'ca,
a ball stuffed with feathers; which derived its name, Apagis,
from villages, where it was chieﬂy seen 5 and the Trigmzalis, an

plum-(watammrwm ‘

CHAP. VII. ROME. 255

behind the Natatz'o, was the Xystum, where the gladiators
and wrestlers exhibited in bad weather: this is now the
Church of S. Maria degli Angeli. The baths, properly so
named, extended in a straight line opposite to the Theatri-
dz'um and Bibliotllecce : the Apodyterz'um, or great hall,
where the bathers undressed and dressed themselves, was
in the centre of the baths. In the centre of the baths like-
wise was the Hypocaustum, or great furnace; whence hot
water was conveyed, in pipes, and hot air, in ﬁnes, to the
different chambers: and this part of the building, which is
still preserved, serves as a sort of Atrium to the Carthusian
church. In the Villa-Negroni are remains of the great
reservoir; and round the exterior of the Baths were walks
shaded with plane-trees *2

Chiesa (12' S. Maria deglz' Angeli. Pius IV, dedicated
Dioclesian’s Baths to sacred uses; because the Christians
who built them suffered martyrdom: and Buonaroti, who
was employed to erect the church, ﬁnding, among the ruins
of these baths, an immense apartment, supported by eight
stupendous columns of oriental granite, (the Xystum already
mentioned) formed it into the present Church of S. Maria
degli Angeli. The entrance to this majestic ediﬁce, which
may vie with S. Peter’s in beauty, was a Caldarium belong-

appellation common to the Pile and Follis, and allusive to the
form of the tennis-courts where these balls were used.

* The expense of bathing in a public bath at Rome was equi-
valent to about one halfpenny for an adult 5 but, for a child,
nothing 5 the rich, however, had their persons rubbed With oils
and ointments of great value. Hot baths were only used at a
stated hour of the evening. Each man stopped at the bath
which he judged proper for himself: and if he made use of the
Laconicum, he returned through the different hot baths; and Was
thus cooled gradually, before he reached the apodzjtcrz‘um.

256 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

ing to the baths, and contains the Monuments of Carlo
Maratta, and Salvator Rosa. The church itself is in the'
shape of a Greek cross; the nave is 179 feet long; its
height 105 feet; and the eight antique columns, already
mentioned, are sixteen feet in circumference by forty—three
high. The pavement is beautiful, and contains a celebrated
meridian by Monsignore Bianchini. Near the high altar
is a picture, by Carlo Maratta, of the baptism of our
Saviour; much injured by time; and another of the mar-
tyrdom of S. Sebastian, by Domenichino, in good preserva-
tion ! ! This church also contains a ﬁne picture of the fall
of Simon Magus, by Pompeio Battoni, and other good
palntmgs.

T716 Pope’s Oil-Cellar, near S. lWaria degli Angeli,
merits notice; as it is a well—preserved part of Dioclesian’s
Baths.

Obelisk of S. JlIaria Illaggiore. This obelisk is of red
Egyptian granite; and forty-three feet in height, without
the pedestal: it was brought to Rome by the Emperor
Claudius; and served as one of the ornaments to the lVIau-
soleum of Augustus; whence it was taken, by Sixtus V,
and placed in its present situation.

Column in the Piazza di S. ﬁIaria Maggime. This Co—
rinthian ﬂuted column, of Parian marble, was taken from
the Temple of Peace; and measures ﬁfty-eight feet in
height, without its pedestal.

Basilica di S. lllaria Maggiorei". This Church, which
stands on the summit of the Esquiline Hill, was erected upon
the foundations of an ancient temple of J uno-Lucina, about
the year 352 ; and afterward enlarged by Sixtus III. It

* Several of these ancient Courts of Justice, called Basilica,
were converted into churches, and still retain their original
appellation.

7w

. We

, ‘ .ww

amp. vn. ROME. 257

was likewise repaired by Benedict XIV; who found a black
and white mosaic marble pavement, about eight palms below
the pavement of the church, which is of that kind invented
by Alexander Severus *. The nave is supported by antique
Ionic columns, thirty—six of which are white marble, and
four granite. The Baldacchino is supported by antique
columns of porphyry. The arch which separates the choir
from the nave is adorned with mosaics of the fifth century.
The chapel of Sixtus V, built after the designs of Fontana,
is incrusted with ﬁne marbles, and adorned with Corinthian
pilasters, bassi—rilievz’, and paintings. On the right stand
the tomb and statue of Sixtus V: in the middle is the altar
of the Holy Sacrament, decorated with a magniﬁcent taber-
nacle, supported by four angels of bronze gilt; and on the
left, the tomb of Pius V. Among the paintings those
most admired are, the Annunciation, by Pompeio Battoni,
and the Holy Family, by Agostino Masucci. The Borghese—
Chapel, built by Paul'V, is peculiarly rich in marbles, paint-
ings, and sculpture. On the right stands the tomb of the
above-named Pontiﬂ; surmounted by his statue: here, like‘
wise, are Statues of S. Basil and David, by Niccolo Cordieri;
and the tomb and statue of Clement VIII; with Statues
of Aaron and S. Bernardo, by Cordieri of Lorrain. The
paintings between the windows, and on the arches above the
tombs, are by Guido I l The altar of the Madonna is mag-
niﬁcently adorned with oriental jasper, agate, and lapis
lazuli; and on its entablature is a ﬁne basso-rz'lz'evo. The
frescos above, and round the altar, and in the vault and

* These Mosaic Pavements of the middle ages were called
Opus Alea‘andrinum, from the inventor. hIosaics, however, seem
to have been originally invented by the Persians: for they were
used in Persia during the reign of Artaxerxes; thence carried
into Assyria, thence to Greece, and , some ages after, to Rome.

S

258 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CRAP. vn.

angles of the cupola, are by the Cav. d’Arpino. The
Sforza-Chapel was designed by Buonaroti. This Basilica
is so loaded with gilding and other ornaments, that it re-
sembles a place of public diversion more than a Christian
temple. .

Obelisk of S. Giovanni in Latm‘ano. This Obelisk is the
largest at Rome; and supposed to have been even more lofty
once, than it is at present. It was originally placed in the
temple of the sun, at Thebes, by Ramesses King of Egypt,
transported to Home by the son of Constantine, and erected,
in its present situation, by Sixtus V: its height, without base
or pedestal, is one hundred and ﬁfteen feet, and its diameter
nine.

Battistm'io di Costantz'no. This ediﬁce was built by Con-
stantine, and repaired by Gregory XIII, and Urban VIII:
its form is octagon; and three steps lead down to the font,
which is an ancient tomb of marble of Ponsevero. The
dome is supported by ﬁne porphyry columns, with an antique
entablature; and adorned with paintings representing the
life of S. John Baptist, by Andrea Sacchi. Other paintings,
on the walls, represent the vision of Constantine; his battle
with Maxentius; and the Destruction of the Idols; which
last is by Carlo Maratta. In one of the Chapels are two
curious ﬂuted pillars of verde antique; in the other two
columns of oriental alabaster; and the original entrance to
this Baptistery is adorned with two noble pillars of porphyry
and an antique entablature.

Basilica (12' S. Giovanni in Larry-(1210*. This stately ediﬁce

* The name of Latcrano is supposed to be derived from Plan-
tius Lateranus, Consul elect, who engaged with Seneca and
others in the great conspiracy against Nero, and thereby lost his
life: hence his palace, having been conﬁscated, probably re-
mained in possession of the Emperors, till Constantine gave it to.

 

CHAP. v11. ROME. $259

was erected by Constantine; and called the mother church
of Rome; though the church of S. Nlartin and S. Luke is
really. so. The great portico is adorned with a colossal
statue of Constantine, found in his Baths; the front of
the building, toward the Naples-gate, is beautiful; and the
bronze-door, ornamented with bassi-rz'lz'ez'i, was taken from
the Temple of Saturn. The interior of the church is divided,
by four rows of pilasters, into one large, and four small
aisles; and the centre-aisle, or nave, is adorned with statues
of the Apostles; among which are Saints Thomas and Bar—
tholomew, by Le ﬁrms; and S. Andrew, S. James minor,
and S. John, by Rusconi. The pavement is mosaic. The
altar of the Holy Sacrament is adorned with four magni-
ﬁcent ﬂuted columns of bronze gilt, supposed to have been
taken from the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus; and, above
these columns, is a fresco, by the Cav. d’Arpino, represent-
ing the ascension of our Saviour into Heaven ! The taber-
nacle, formed of precious marbles, is placed between two
Angels of bronze gilt, and four columns of verde antique.
At the top of the centre-aisle, near the high—altar, are two
noble columns of1ed granite; and, near the door leading to
the Baptistery, two ﬂuted columns of giallo antico, deemed
the ﬁnest specimens extant of that marble. In this ChUlCll
are the Tombs of the Cav. d’Arpino, Andrea Sacchi, and
Boniface VIII; the last of which is ornamented with a fr esco,
supposed to have been done by Giotto, and representing
Boniface, between two Cardinals, publishing the ﬁi st jubilee
of the holy year, in 11300. The Corsini-Chapel (to the left
of the great door) is particularly elegant; and was erected
by Clement XII, in honour of his ancestor S. Andrea Cor-
sini. Over the altar, between two verde antique columns,

the Church, and built the Basilica of S. Giovanni, properlv the
Pope 5 Cathedral.

5"

I41

260 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII

is a portrait, in mosaic, beautifully copied from a painting
by Guido, of S. Andrea Corsini. On one side of the chapel
is the monument of Clement XII; said to have been once
the tomb of Agrippa: it was taken from the Pantheon; and
is, in point of shape, the most beautiful sarcophagus extant.
On the opposite side, stands the tomb of Cardinal Neri
Corsini. In this chapel, likewise, are four statues, repre-
senting the four cardinal virtues; one of which, Fortitude.
is by Rusconi, and much admired; as are the four bassi-
7‘z'lz'evz' in the upper part of the chapel. The pavement is
beautiful; and the subterranean part of this building merits
notice; as it is simple and appropriate, and contains a ﬁne
Pietd. In the Sacristy of S. Giovanni in Laterano is an An-
nunciation, designed, if not executed, by Buonaroti.

Scala Santa. This Ediﬁce is celebrated for containing
twenty-seven steps of white marble, reputed to have belonged
to the Palace; of Pilate.

Not far hence is an Arch, or Tribune, adorned with the
famous Trz'clim'um of S. Leo; a mosaic originally placed in
the eating room of the palace of that Pope, to perpetuate
the event of his having crowned Charlemagne Emperor of
the west.

Amphitheatre C astrense. This building now makes part
of the wall of Rome, near the Naples—gate; though it for—
merly stood on the outside of the city: it was called Cas-
trensis, because appropriated to military games, and combats
between soldiers and wild beasts. The interior of the build~
ing may be seen in a garden on the right of the Church of
S. Croce in Gerusalemo: nothing, however, remains, except
a few arches. The exterior part, which was adorned with two
rows of columns, should be viewed from the outside of the
Naples-Gate.

Basilica (12' Santa Croce in Gm‘usalcmo. This Church,
one of the seven Basilica: of Rome, was erected by Con-

CHAP. v11. ROME. 261
stantine near an ancient Sessorz'mn; which seems to have
been converted into the entrance of the church; and makes
a magniﬁcent vestibule. The approach from S. Giovanni
in Laterano to S. Croce in Gerusalemo, is particularly hand-
some; and exhibits ﬁne remains of the ancient VValls of
Rome: the latter church derives its name from part of the
Cross which S. Helena brought from Jerusalem, and depo-
sited here. On each side of the great door is a Vase for
holy water, very similar to those in the Cathedral at Siena;
and, like them, containing marble ﬁshes beautifully exe-
cuted. The nave is supported by eight ﬁne columns of
Egyptian granite; and its ceiling adorned with a fresco by
Conrad Giaquinto; who likevvise painted that part of the
ceiling of the Tribuna which is over the high—altar: the
other part was done by Pinturicchio, and represents the find—
ing of the Cross ! The high—altar is adorned with four rare
columns of breccia corallina, and an ancient sarcophagus
of basalt. The pavement of the church is antique. This
ediﬁce contains the subterranean Chapel of S. Helena,
adorned with curious ancient mosaics, and an inscription in
her honour.

On the right, coming out of the church, is a Garden,
which exhibits considerable remains of a building, called
the Temple of Venus and Cupid ,- but, more probably, one of
the halls, or temples, which adorned the Baths of S. Helena.
This Garden likewise exhibits magniﬁcent remains of the
Claudz'an Aqueduct: and, not far hence, was an Altar con-
secrated to bad Fortune.

Citiesa dz' S. Bibiana *. Here are eight antique columns;
and a ﬁne antique sarcophagus of oriental alabaster, with a
leopard’s head in its centre: and here, likewise, is a cele-
brated statue of S. Bibiana, by Bernini !

* It is difﬁcult to gain admission to this church, unless it be
very early in the morning.

262 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

Tempz'o dz' Mz'nerva-Medica. This picturesque ruin stands
in a garden, the door of which is generally open. The
temple is round without, but decagon within; and seems to
have had six windows and nine niches for statues. Here
was found a celebrated statue of Minerva with the serpent
at her feet: but whether this building was dedicated to Mi-
nerva-Medica or not, seems uncertain. In the same garden
is tile Arzmtz'an Sepulc/zre ,- together with subterranean vaulted
Apartments, supposed to have been the receptacles of the
Plebeian Dead; whose ashes were consigned to small
earthenware urns, simply inscribed with a name, and an
exclamation of sorrow. .

Area (11' Gallz'eno, coxnmohly‘called Area (11' S. Vito. Ac-
cording to the inscription on this arch, it was erected in
honour of the Emperor whose name it bears. It is Doric ;
and proves the decline of architecture in the days of Gal-
lienus.

Remains offive Aqueducts are discoverable in this quarter
of the city ; namely, the Marcian, Tqmlan, Julian, Claudz'an,
and the Ania-72017243 ,- and near the church of S. Eusebio is
a considerable ruin of a Castellum of one of these aqueducts.

C/zz'esa, di S. Prassede. The high altar of this ancient Edi-
ﬁce is adorned with a handsome baldacchino, supported by
four fine columns of porphyry: the tribuna is adorned with
ancient mosaics; and leading to it are magnificent steps
of rosso antico, composed of the largest blocks extant
of that rare marble, the fauns of the Capitol and Vatican
excepted. In this church is a column supposed to be that
our Saviour was fastened to, when scourged. In the Sa-
cristy is a painting of the Flagellation, by Giulio Romano;
and in one of the Chapels are three paintings relative to the
life of S. Carlo Borromeo, by an English Painter, named
Sterne: they are ﬁnely executed, and dated 1741. This
church leads to the Catacombs.

CHAD. vu. ROME. 263

Campidoglz'o. This hill, originally called Mons Saturm'us,
and afterward Tamez'us, from Tarpeia, who admitted the
Sabines into the fortress erected here, was, according to
tradition, denominated Capz'tole, or Capitolium, because,
when Tarquin the elder ordered the foundations of a tem-
ple of Jupiter to be laid on this spot, the workmen, while
digging, found a human head; in consequence of which the
augurs predicted, that Rome would become mistress of the
world.

When we recollect the number of splendid ediﬁces which
adorned the ancient Capitol, we are led to think its extent
must have been immense: but, when we View the spot, and
see how circumscribed it ' we can only account for the
number of its temples by concluding, that here, as in various
parts of the city, one ediﬁce was frequently destroyed to
make room for another. The square of the ancient Capitol
was adorned with porticos by Scipio Nasica; and in its
centre was the triumphal arch of Nero. The most ancient
temple was that of Jupiter Feretrz'us, erected by Romulus;
and its dimensions were only ten feet in length, and ﬁve in
breadth*. The temple of Jupiter-Capitolz'nus, ﬁnished by
the younger Tarquin, was much larger; and when consumed
by lightning, which happened more than once, seems to have
increased in magnitude every time it rose from its ashes.
The last person who rebuilt this temple was Domitian; and
he is said to have expended twelve thousand talents in gild.
ing it. Here were deposited the spoils of conquered na-
tions, as offerings to the gods from the Senate, Consuls, and
Emperors of Rome. The statue of Jupiter was gold; and
so, likewise, was that of Victory; which is said to have
weighed three hundred and twenty pounds. Here, also,

* The statues of the gods, placed in the temples of Rome,
during the days of Romulus, were made of baked clay.

 

£264- TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.VII.

were the temples of Jupiter-Manda, Fortuna-Prz'migem‘a,
Fm'tzma-Prz'vata, Fortmza- V 2'scola, V ejovz's, Isis, Serapz's,
&c.; embellished by statues without and within; so that the
Capitol was denominated The Hall of the Gods. Of these
magniﬁcent ediﬁces, however, scarcely a wreck remains: so
that the modern Capitol bears no semblance to the ancient.
The present steps, and two side buildings of the-latter, were
planned by Buonaroti, at the command of Paul 111: and the
front of the Senator’s house was likewise rebuilt, after. the
design of Buonaroti. At the bottom of the steps are two
Lionesses, in basalt, supposed to be Egyptian workmanship;
and, on the left side, two arches, under which are large
stones, supposed to have made. art of the foundation of the
Temple of Jupiter Feretrius.‘ On the top of the steps are
two colossal Statues, reputed to be Greek sculpture; but
more probably Roman; one represents Castor and the other
Pollux, with their respective horses. On a line with these
statues are beautiful Trophies, called those of hIarius, but
rather supposed to have been done in honour of Trajan’s
victory over the Dacians: they once adorned a Castellum of
the Julian Aqueduct; and Piranesi calls them trophies of
Augustus. On the same line, likewise, are Statues of the
two Sons of Constantine; together with two Roman mile-
stones; that numbered “ I,” and standing on the right, being
the column which anciently marked the ﬁrst mile of the Via-
Appia ; that, on the left, modern. In the centre of the
square is a bronze equestrian Statue of hlarcus Aurelius,
once gilt ! l l * This is the only antique bronze equestrian
statue extant. Frontiug the steps is the Senator’s House,
which stands on the ruins of the ancient Tabularz'um .- and

* It was found near the Scala Santa, on the spot where the
house of his grandfather, Annius Verus, is supposed to have
stood.

I CHAP. vn. ROME. 265

under the entrance-door is a Statue of Rome triumphant, in
Parian marble draped with porphyry: a recumbent Statue
of the Nile; and another of the Tiber, both in Greek mar-
ble. On the right side of the square is the Palazzo de’ Con,
servatori; and on the left the Museo-Capitolino. Beyond
the former, on the south side of the hill, are steps which
lead to the spot where stood the temple of Jupiter Capitow
linus; near which, in a Garden, belonging to a house num-
bered 139, is that part of the, T mpez'an Roe]; whence, it is
supposed, criminals were thrown down into the Forum *.
The garden fronts Caracalla’s Baths; and the rock, in this
place, may perhaps be sixty feet high at the present mo-
ment; and formerly it must evidently have been much more;
as the level of the Forum is full twenty feet higher now than
it was originally.

Citiesa (13' S. Maria d’Araca’lz', anciently 2726 Temple of
Jupiter Feretrz'us. The steps leading up to this church,
from the side of the Campus Martins, are an hundred and
twenty-four in number; and the marble of which they are
made was taken from the temple of Jupiter Quirinus, on
the Quirinal hill. The interior of the ediﬁce is supported
by twenty-two antique columns, chieﬂy Egyptian granite;
and the third column on the left (entering by the great
door), bears this inscription; “ A vaz'cvlo Augustorum Jr.”
It is said that Augustus, about the time of our Saviour’s
birth, erected, here, an altar, under the name of Am Primo-
gem'tz' Dei, now corrupted into Araca’lz' .- and an altar, said
to be that above-mentioned, is still preserved in this church,
and stands between the high-altar and sacristy. The choir

* Dionysius of Halicarnassus says, that criminals were thrown
down from the Tarpeian Rock into the Forum.

Jr The Cubicularii were ofﬁcers belonging to the imperial
Court.

266 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

behind the high-altar contains a picture, by Raphael, of the
Holy Family; which was injured, and has been ill restored.
The Chapel of S. Francesco is ﬁnely painted, by Trevisani;
and here, likewise, is a Chapel painted by Pinturicchio and
Luca Signorelli. ‘

Clzz'esa di S. Pietro in Carcere. On the right, going down
from the Capitoline hill to this church, are large stones, be-
longing probably to the ancient T abularz'um. Under the
church is an ancient Prison, built by Ancus Martius, and
called 11 Carcere Mamertino: it is quite perfect, and well
worth seeing; through cold and damp. Here, S. Peter was
conﬁned; and in the lowest part of this prison, near a small
column to which the Apostle was bound, is a spring of water,
said to have issued forth miraculously, that he might baptize
the two gaolers, and forty-seven other persons; all of whom
afterward suffered martyrdom.

Palazzo dcl Senatore di Roma. The view from the Tower
which crowns this building, is particularly worth notice; as
it exhibits all the ancient ediﬁces of the city; and shows
their respective situations.

Palazzo de’ Conservatori. In the quadrangle, beyond the
arcade, are' statues of Rome triumphant and the weeping
Province ! two Dacian Kings, and two Egyptian Divinities,
all in the same line. The quadrangle likewise contains a
Group of a Lion devouring a Horse! the Bust, and one
Hand, of a colossal statue of Commodus ; the Bust of Do—
Initian; and immense Feet, and one Hand of a'mutilated
colossal statue of Apollo. The Arcade contains a Statue of
Julius Caesar—Ditto of Augustus, done apparently after the
battle of Actium, by the prow of a galley with which it is
adorned -— a Bacchante—a rostral Column—and a Lion on
a pedestal which bears an inscription of the time of Adrian.
On the Staircase are four bassi—rilievi, which originally be-
longcd to the triumphal Arch of Marcus Aurelius, on the

CHAP. vn. ROME. , 267

Corso: here likewise is a basso-rz'lz'evg found in the Forum,
of Curtius leaping into the gulf; and, on the landing-place,
are two more bassi—rz'lz'evz', taken from the Arch of Aurelius.

On this landing-place is a door which leads to the Apart-
ments not open to the public; but which the Custode is happy
to show, for a triﬂing gratuity.

T/zqﬁrst room contains Paintings, by the Cav. d’Arpino;
namely, the battle of the Horatii and Curiatii—the battle of
Tullus Hostilius with the army of Veii ! —— the discovery of
Romulus and Remus—Romulus founding Rome—the sacri-
ﬁce of Numa Pompilius, and institution of the Vestal Vir-
gins; and the rape of the Sabines.

The second room contains Paintings by Laurenti; namely,
Junius Brutus condemning his sons to death for having con-
spired against the Republic; Horatius Cocles, on the Sub-
lician bridge, opposing the Etrurians ; Mutius Scaevola
burning his own hand in presence of Porsena, after having
killed one of the Etrurian Ofﬁcers, whom he mistook for the
King ; and the battle in which the Tarquins were defeated.

T/ze t/zira’ room contains a Frieze representing the triumph
of Marius by Daniello da Volterra !! a Picture of S. Fran-
cesco Romano, by Romanelli; and a dead Christ, by Cosimo
Piazza—the Statue of the bronze wolf, said to have been
struck with lightning when Caesar fell! This statue is evi-
dentl y of high antiquity; and perhaps the work of an Etruscan
a1‘tist*—a bronze Bust of J unius Brutus ! l—two mosaic
tables, taken from Adrian’s Villa—a Bust of Julius Cmsar
—-ditto of Apollo—a triform—Dianaf—a Bust of Adrian-—

* Cicero tells us that, in his time, the turrets of the Capitol,
the statues of the gods, and the image of the infant Romulus
sucking the wolf, were struck down by lightning.

f Emblcnzatical of her sovereignty over Hell, Earth, and
Heaven.

268 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

and a basso—rz'lz'evo representing the temple of Janus, 01', ac-
cording to some opinions, the gate of Eternity.

'leeﬁurt/z room contains a bronze Statue of a Youth, said
to be the shepherd Martius taking a thorn out of his foot ! !
—a Bust in basso—rz'lz'evo of Mithridates! and the Fasti
Consulares ! ! *

Thefﬂ/z room contains 21 Bust, in rosso antico, of Appius
Claudius—a Bust of Buonaroti—Ditto of Marcus Aurelius;
Ditto of Pompey; Ditto of Medusa! ! Ditto of Philip of
Macedon; Ditto of Scipio Africanus; Ditto of Tiberius;
Ditto of Agrippina; Ditto of Julia; two Ducks, in bronze,
said to have been found in the Tarpeian Rock; and to be
the representation of those ducks which saved the Capitol.
Here, also, are thefollowing paintings; a Holy Family, by
Giulio Romano; and the Olympic games, by Zuccari.

T/zefftlz room contains a Frieze painted by Annibale
Caracci, and representing the military achievements of
Scipio Africanus; Tapestry taken from the designs of Ru-
bens; Busts of Sapho! Socrates ! Adrian! and Sabina
Poppaea! the second wife of Nero.

The sixth room contains Frescos by Pietro Perugino; who
has represented Hannibal in Capua— Rome triumphant
over Sicily, the. Here, likewise, are Statues of Virgil,
Cicero, and Cybele.

The seventh apartment is a Chapel; on the ceiling of
which lVI. A. Caravaggio has represented the Deity. Here,
also, are Paintings of S. Cecilia, by Romanelli! and the
four Evangelists, by Caravaggio; together with an altar—
piece, by Nucci.

The eight/z room has a door ﬁnely carved, by Algardi.

' These precious remains of antiquity were found during the
I‘ontiﬁcate of Paul 111, near the church of S. Maria Liberatrice,
in the Forum Romunum, and probably in that part which be—

longed to the (‘omitimm

CRAP. v11. ROME. 269

The newt stmy (3)“ this building contains tlzePz'cture Gallmy,
which is open to the public every Sunday morning, from
noon till four o’clock; and every Thursday morning, from
eleven till four o’clock.» Some of the most striking pictures
in tileﬁrst room are; No. 2, the hiadonna, our Saviour and
Saints, copied by Bonatti, from Paolo Veronese—Ila, the
sacriﬁce of Iphigenia, by Pietro da Cortona—5, the portrait
of a lady, by Bromine—6, S. Lucia, by BenVenuto Gato-
folo l—9, Vanity, by Titian !——15, the rape of the Sabines‘,
by Pietro (la Cortona [—18, a portrait, by Velasquez—33,
Hagar driven from the house of Abraham, by Francesco
hIola—SG, Charity, by Annibale Caracci l—37, Bacchus
and Ariadne, school of Guido—38, the Sibyl Pcrsica, by
GuercinolH—39, the Madonna, our Saviour, S. Cecilia,
and other Saints, by Annibale Caracci 1—40, the Madonna,
our Saviour, and S. Francesco, by Annibale Caracci—41,
the Holy Family, by Benvenuto Garofolo—42, Mary blag-
dalene washing our Saviour’s feet; a miniature, by M. F.
Zibaldi Subleras, copied from the original of her husband l
—4~3, the marriage of S. Caterina, by Correggio—44, the
Madonna and our Saviour, by Albano l—45, S. Maria
hiaddalena, by Tintoretto ! l——- 46, David with the head of
Goliah, by Romanelli—ILS, the communion of S. Girolamo,
by Agostino Caracci l—5l, S. John Baptist, by Danielle da
Volterra l—52, Christ disputing with the Doctors, by Valen—
tino ! l—— 53, the Cumaean Sibyl, by Domenichino ! 11—60,
S. John Baptist, by Guercino—63, a landscape, with the
ﬁgure of the Magdalene, Caracci school—64, the Magda-
lene, by Albano— 65, the triumph of Bacchus, by Pietro
da Cortona—67, S. Cecilia, by Romanelli—70, the beatiﬁed
Spirit, by Guido l—76, Romulus and Remus discovered
with the wolf, by Rubens ! l—86, the Madonna adoring our
Saviour, by Pietro da Cortona— 89, a portrait, by Titian——
90, Melcager in Chiaroscuro, by Polidoro (la Caravaggio.

Q70 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. Vll.

Some of the most striking Pictures in the second room
are; No. 2, a copy of Raphael’s Galatea, by Pietro da Cor-
tona—6, the adoration of the Magi, by Garofolo——11, a
landscape, by Claude Lorrain—12, Ditto by Ditto—25,
Love, by Guido—37, the woman detected in adultery, by
Titian—40, Europa, by Guido!——IL], Alexander’s victory
over Darius, by Pietro (la Cortona l—43, a head, by Titian
-—44<, Polyphemus, by Guido—47, the Presentation in the
Temple, supposed to be by Fra Bartolomeo—48, the Holy
Family, by Andrea Sacchi—5 7, the pool of Silome, by Do-
menichino; (parts of this small picture are beautiful)—58, a
landscape by Claude Lorrain—60, a Presepz'o *, by Garo-
folo—62, the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. John, by Ditto
-——63, the judgment of Solomon, by Giacomo Bassano—GS,
the raising of S. Petronella’s body from the grave, and the
ascension of her spirit into Heaven, by Guercino l. l l !—72,
a Gipsy telling a youth his fortune, by Caravaggio l—73,
the lVIadonna, our Saviour, and Angels, by Perugin0—76,
a Soldier seated, by Salvator Rosa—77, ahalf-length ﬁgure
of S. Girolamo, by Pietro Facini—78, a portrait of Petrarca,
by Giovanni Bellino l—79, a landscape, by Domenichino—
80, a portrait of Buonaroti, by himself !— 82, a portrait
of Giovanni Bellino, by Himself! —86, a Witch, by Sal—
vator Rosa -—89, S. Sebastiano, by Ludovico Caracci L—
93, Antony and Cleopatra, or Augustus and Cleopatra, by
Guercino—IOQ, S. Barbara, a half-length ﬁgure, by Dome—

* This is a representation of our Saviour in the manger, at-
tended by the blessed Virgin, Joseph, &c. There is another hilltl
of Presepio exhibited in Roman Catholic Countries at Christmas ;
and consisting of our Saviour, as an Infant, the blessed Virgin.
Joseph, the wise Men of the East, camels, &c.; all wrought in
wax, and sometimes well executed. The best ofthese exhibitions
is in the Church of S. Maria d'Aracmli. .

Gimp. v11. ROME. 271

nichino— 111, the Holy Family, by Parmigiano—l 13, S.
Christoforo, by T intoretto—IM, S. Cecilia, by Ludovico
Caracci l—l 16, two Philosophers, by Calabrese—l 17, Pro-
metheus, Venetian school—120, the Graces, by Palma Gio-
vane—123, Europa, by Paolo Veronese ! !

Illuseo Capz'tolz'no, open to the public every Sunday morn-
ing, from twelve till four o’clock; and every Thursday
morning, from eleven till four o’clock*.

Some of the most striking efforts of the chisel, in this
magniﬁcent collection, are;

Quadrangle ,- No. 1, a colossal Statue of the Ocean !

Arcade ; No. 1, Endymion and his dog, the pedestal ﬁne
—3, a colossal Statue of hiinerva—et, fragment of a statue
of Hercules l—5, Apollo—7, a Bacchante, semi-colossal;-
8, Ceres.

Over the door oft/2e Director’s Apartment four Consular
Fasces. No. 1), the Dacian Province—10, a colossal head
of Cybele—IQ, the Capital of a Doric column, taken from
Caracalla’s Baths—13, group of a Muse with the Genius of
music—l5, Ptolemy, in the character of Apollo— 16, a
wounded Amazon—17, Isis, in rare basalt! l—QO, Diana l

* Those persons who Wish to see the Museums ofthe Capitcl
and Vatican to advantage should visit them by torch-light. The
Custode of each Museum is always ready to attend upon Strangers
at any hour of the evening they may choose to appoint, if they
provide wax ﬂambeaux, and agree to pay four or ﬁve crowns to
the Custode and his men. The expense of the ﬁambeaux ne- I
cessary on this occasion is about ﬁve crowns more. Statues never
look so well as when thus seen; and probably this was the cause
why all the finest efforts of the Grecian chisel were originally
placed in subterranean baths.

If a party be small, two ﬂambeaux are sufﬁcient, and three
crowns enough for the Cnstode and his men.

2y.

272 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. "1].

-—2l, Hercules—22, Isis, in red oriental granite ! !——-23, a.
colossal Statue of Diana—~25, Polyphemus— 26, Mercury
——Q7, a sepulchral Urn l——-28, Adrian in a sacerdotal habit
—-30, Jove armed with thunder l—31, a. Statue of lVIars, the
head and armour antique, the rest restored l—BQ, Hercules
killing the Hydra !

Canopo. The statues contained in this apartment are said
to have been found in the Canopus of Adrian’s Villa: it is
supposed, however, that not more than three of them are
really Egyptian; the rest being productions of the time of
Adrian. No. I, Isis and Apis ! ! m3, Canopus—9, Isis—
10, Anubis with the Sistrum and Caduceus ! !—12,' Isis——
l3, Isis ! l

‘z'rst room, added to the quseum by Pius VII. No. 8,
a female Figure placed on a lectisternium—IS, a Pedestal
on which are represented the labours of Hercules.

Second room. No. l, the Sarcophagus of Alexander
Severus and his mother. Some of the bassi-n'lz'cvz' which
adorn this immense monument are ﬁne *.—3, a Disk, with
bassi—rz‘lz’evz', representing the life of Achilles l—IL, an an-
cient lVIosaic, found near Antium, and representing Hercules
vanquished by Love l—5, a Satyr with a pipe—11, Pluto
-—13, a basso-relicvo of Poppaea, second wife of Nero—14,
Nero.

Staircase. N0. 1, a Statue of lWodesty, or a Vestal—2,
the Top of an ancient V'Vell Jr—5, a Lion devouring a Goat.
Fastened into the wall is the Plan of ancient Rome, found
in the church of Saints Cosimo and Damiano.

Gallmy upstairs. No. 2, Bust of Faustina the elder, wife

* Some writers suppose the monument in question to have
been that of Genesius Marcianus, the Father of Alexander Se-
verus, and his wife, Julia Mammea.

1~ Or perhaps a receptacle for sacriﬁcial ashes.

 

can. v11. ROME. 273

of Antoninus Pius—5, Euterpe—IO, a basso-rz'lz'evo, repre-
senting a man making his will—12, a drunken Bacchante!
——l 4, a Bust of Silenus—l5, a Bust of Pompey.
' Apartment of tile Vase. No. 1, a large vase with Baccha-
nalian ornaments, found near the sepulchre of Cecilia Me-
tella! l—and a Pedestal with the twelve principal gods of the
ancients sculptured in basso-rz'lievo—Q, (near the window“),
a Greek Vase of bronze, found in the Port of Antium, and
supposed to be very ancient.—9, Mercury—36, a triform-
Diana—37, a basso—rz'lz'evo representing circumstances re-
corded by Homer—39, a sacriﬁcial tripod—40, ancient
Roman weights, scales, and a candelabrum—M, the triumph
of Bacchus for the conquest of I ndia—47, Diana of Ephesus
——59, Isis —68, the Foot of a tripod of ﬂowered alabaster !
-—69, a sepulchral Urn, representing the fable of Diana and
Endymion—~77, Diana of Ephesus-83, a Hermes—84, a
Hermes representing Bacchus—96, a cinerary Urn sup-
posed to have contained the ashes of a youth—100, a Sar-
cophagus, with bassi-rz'lz'evz', representing the fable of Pro-
metheus—101, a hiosaic, in pietre dare, of four pigeons,
described by Pliny, and found in Adrian’s Villa! !*
Continuation of the Gallery. No. 17, a Bust supposed to
represent Cecrops, ﬁrst King of Athens—18, Cato the
Censor l—19, Group of Agrippina and Nero—21, Marcus
Aurelius—23, Bust of a laughing Bacchus—26, a young
Hercules l—27, Paris—28, a Sarcophagus representing the
rape of Proserpine—29, a cinerary Urn— 30, a Bust, sup-
posed to represent Marcus Brutus—32, Psyche, with the
wings of a butterﬂy—34, Marcus Vespasian Agrippa—35,
a colossal Bust of the mother of Niobe—36, a wounded

* This MOSaic made part of a pavement; and is supposed to
have been brought by Adrian from Pergamus, and to have been
the work of Sosus.

T

274 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

Gladiator; or, more probably, a Discobolus—37, a Wine-
vase—40, one of the Daughters of Niobe—ILQ, a Head of
Jupiter l—44«, Diana-Lucifera—ILS, a Sarcophagus with
bassi—rilz'evz' relative to the history of Bacchus—49, a cine-
rary Urn, with a pine-apple, the emblem of mourning, at
the top—50, Bust of Scipio Africanus—51, Bust of Phocion
:52, Statue of a Consul—54, a semi-colossal head of Anti—
nous—55, Bust of Venus—56, a small Pallas—57, a small
Isis—58, a semi-colossal Bust of Jupiter-Ammonl—GO,
Ceres—62, Bust of the Mother of Niche—63, Bust of Ti-
berius—64, Bacchus with a panther at his feet—65, Jove
with the eagle at his feet—66, Bust of Jove—67, Head of
Augustus—~68, Bust of Adrian—70, Bust of Caligula—72,
a Statue of Llarcus Aurelius—73, a Bust of Trajan—74},
Bust of Silenus crowned with ivy—75, Bust of Domitius
Enobarbus, the father of Nero l—76, Bust of Caracalla.
Apartment of tile Emperors. On the walls are the fol-
lowing bassi—rz'lievz', numbered alphabetically—A. Genii in
cars—B. Bacchus, on a tiger, with Fauns, satyrs, Sic—C.
the chase of the Calidonian boar—~E. the nine lVIuses l—F.
Perseus liberating Andromeda l—G. Socrates with History,
and Homer with Poetry H. Endymion and his dog—I.
The fable of Hylas; three of the ﬁgures in_this basso-rz'lz'evo
exactly resemble the three Graces of Siena. In the middle
of the room is a statue of Agrippina, the mother of Germa—
nicus, seated in a curule chair! and round the apartment,
on two shelves of marble, are Busts of the Roman Emperors
and their Relatives, beginning with Julius Caesar; whose
bust, numbered 1,—that of Drusus, numbered 5,—that of
lVIessalina, numbered 11,—that of Galba, numbered 16,——
that of Julia the daughter of Titus, numbered 21,—that of
Nerva, numbered 24,—that of Plotina, numbered 26,—those
of Adrian, numbered 29, and 30,—that of Julia-Sabina,
numbered 31,—that of Marcus Aurelius, numbered 35,—-

 

CHAP. v11. ROME. 2’75

that of Lucilla, numbered 40, —that of Commodus, num-
bered 41, —that of Clodius Albinus, numbered 47,—those of
Septimius Severus, numbered 48, and 49,—that of Macri—
nus, numbered 53,—that of Maximus, numbered 59,—that
of T ribonianus Gallus, numbered 68,—a11d that of Salonnia,
numbered 73, are the most striking.

Apartment of the Plzz'losop/zm's. Among the bassi—rz’lz’evg)
011 the walls, are; G. a funeral procession ;——I. Victory in a
triun1phalcar;—-—L. a sacriﬁce to Hygeia, in rosso antico ,—
M Faunus follow ed by Spartan ladies . this work bears the
name of Callimachus, and is described in Pliny. In the
centre of the room is one of the twelve Camz'llz' who attended
at sacriﬁces. On two marble shelves round the room are
busts of Poets, Philosophers, and other distinguished cha-
racters of antiquity: those of Virgil, marked 1,—Soerates,
marked 4, 5, and 6,—vCarneades, marked 8, —- Seneca, marked

—Plato, marked 11,—Diogenes, marked 21,—Archi-
medes, marked 22,—Asclepiades, marked 24,—Demo-
sthenes, marked 31,—Pindar, marked 33,—Aratus, marked
38,—Dem0critus, marked 39, and 40,—Homer, marked 44,
45, 46, and 47,—Aspasia, marked 48,—Cleopatra, marked
49,—Sappho, marked 51,—Lysias, marked 54,—Epicurus,
marked 62,—Metrodorus, marked 63,—Epicurus, marked
64,—Aristotle, marked 66,—l\Iassinissa, marked 68, and 69,
—Julian, the apostate, marked 72,—Cicero, marked 74-—
and Gabrielle Faerno, marked 79, and done by Buonaroti,
are the most striking.

Saloon. The two columns of giallo antico, which orna-
ment the large niche of this apartment, once belonged to the ,
tomb of Cecilia Metella; and the two ﬁgures of Victory,
which support the arms of Clement XII, once belonged to
the triumphal Arch of Nlarcus Aurelius. Among the statues
are; No. l, Jove armed with lightning, of nero antico, and

found in the Port of Antium l—2, a Centaur, ofnero antico,
’1‘ 2

276 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

found at Adrian’s Villa! l—3, Hercules, in basalt, found on
the Aventine hill; the pedestal is adorned with bassi—rz'lievi’
representing the birth, education, and coronation of Jove ! l
—-4«, another Centaur, similar to that numbered 2 “! l”——-5,
Esculapius, in nero antico, placed on a circular altar re-
presenting a sacriﬁce—'7, Venus coming from the bath—9,
one of the sons of Niobe—IO, an Amazon—11, a wounded
Amazon—13, a Muse—14, Minerval— 15, a faun—16,
Apollo, semi—colossal—IS, a colossal Bust of Trajan l—21,
Antinous—QQ, Adrian—23, Caius Marius, in consular
robes ! l—fM, Julia, consort of Septimius Severus—25, Her-
cules in bronze gilt, semi-colossal, found in the Forum Boa-
rium; and the only antique statue in Rome on which the
gilding remains ! !—-‘26, Isis with the lotus on her head l—EZS,
a Master of one of the schools for gymnastic exercises, found
in Adrian’s Villa—29, one of the Prajﬁca’, hired to weep at
funerals—31, the Goddess of Clemency with a patera and a
lance, found on the Aventine hill—32, a colossal Bust of
Antoninus Pius—34, a hunter—35, Harpocrates, the God
of silence.

Apartment oft/16 Faun. Among the bassi—rilz'evz' which
adorn the walls of this room, is the triumph of the Nereides
over (marine Monsters. In the centre of the apartment is
the Faun, in rosso antico, found at Adrian’s villa I ! l—No.
3, is a colossal head of Hercules placed on a rostral altar
dedicated to Neptune—6, a colossal head of Bacchus, placed
on a rostral altar, dedicated to Tranquillity—10, an incog-
nito—Bust—13, a Sarcophagus, the bassi—rz'lz'evi on which
represent the fable of Diana and Endymion—14:, an incog-
nito-Bust standing on a curious altar dedicated toAIsis, and
found in Adrian’s Villa—15, a child playing with a mask—
17, Innocence playing with a dove——18, Cupid breaking his
bow—19, Alexander the Great-20, a Faun playing the ﬂute
—‘21, a Child playing with a Swan, and placed on an altar

CHAP. vn. ROME. 977
dedicated to the sun—22, an incognito-Bust—-—26, a Sarco-
phagus adorned with bassi—rilievi representing the battle of
Theseus and the Amazons.

Apartment oft/Le dying Gladiator. This super-excellent
statue, found in the gardens of Sallust, has been so well
restored, by Buonaroti, that the arm he made is deemed

equal in merit with the other parts of the ﬁgure ! ! ! ! l—92, ,

Zeno, the Founder of the Stoics; this statue stands upon
an ancient altar—3, a group of Cupid and Psyche, found
on the Aventine hill, and placed on an altar dedicated to
Apollo! ”—4, the Faun of Praxiteles, found at Tivoli, in
the Villa d’Este ! !!—5, bust of Marcus Brutus !—6, Anti-
nouslll—7, Flora, found in Adrian’s Villall—S, Venus
coming from the bath ! I !——9, Juno, semi-colossal ! ! !——10,
bust of Alexander the Great !—1 l, the Egyptian Autinous
deiﬁed by Adrian, demi—colossal, and found in Adrian’s
Villa !-—12, bust of Ariadne, crowned with ivy—13, Pan-
dora, semi—colossal, placed on an altar dedicated to Her-
cules l—lé, Apollo, semi—colossal, and found in the Zolfa—
tara, near Tivoli ! ! !

Tempz'o di Pallade, erected by Domitian in his Forum.
This magniﬁcent ruin is half buried in the earth; but that
part which appears above-ground of two beautifﬁl ﬂuted
Corinthian columns now standing, measures twenty-nine
feet in height, each column being nine feet and a half in
circumference. The entablature and frieze are rich in well
executed ornaments; especially the latter; which represents
the Arts, patronized by Pallas. On the entablature is a
large ﬁgure of the Goddess in alto-rz'lz'evo.

Temple 6 Fora di Nerva. The Emperor Nerva, after
the death of Domitian, ﬁnished his Forum; which was
enlarged and embellished by Trajan; who erected there
one of the ﬁnest ediﬁces of ancient Rome, a Temple or
Basilica in honour of Nerva. Contiguous to the entrance

278 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

into the Forum of Nerva (now called Arco de’ Pantani)
are the remains of this ediﬁce; namely, a part of what
seems to have been the cella; and a part of the side—
portico; consisting of three magniﬁcent columns and a
pilaster of Parian marble, ﬂuted, and of the Corinthian
order; which support an architrave much ornamented and
ﬁnely worked. The height of these columns is ﬁfty-one
feet; and their circumference sixteen feet and a half. The
wall now remaining of the Forum of Nerva is equally
extraordinary on account of its immense height and the
enormous blocks of stone that compose it; which are
cramped together, without the assistance of lime, by pieces
of hard wood.

Faro c Colmma T rajana. The Forum of Trajan, built
by Apollodorus of Damascus, was, according to the records
of antiquity, more splendid than any other Forum at Rome;
and contained porticos, statues, a basilica, with a bronze
equestrian statue of Trajan in its vestibule; a temple dedi-
cated to that Emperor after his death; a triumphal arch
with four fronts, the celebrated Ulpian Library, and a
beautiful historic column, the last of which alone remains
entire. The column is supposed to have stood in the centre
of the Forum; and, under this supposition, we may con-
clude, that not much more than half of the latter has been
excavated; and that the other part must still remain en-
tombed, beneath the churches of S. hIaria, and S. l\'Iaria
di Loretto. The excavations lately made have brought to
light a considerable number of columns of grey granite, all
broken; but which seem, judging from the situation of their
bases, to have belonged to the Basilica. Several fragments
of sculpture, inscriptions, 810. have likewise been found;
and are now placed in the Forum. Trajan’s column, the
most beautiful work extant of its kind, was erected at the
beginning of the second century, by the senate and people

CHAP. vn. ROME. 279

of Rome, in honour of his victories over the Daci, Sarmati,
8L0. It is of the Doric order, and composed of thirty-four
blocks of Greek marble, fastened together With bronze
cramps: its circumference, at the bottom, being eleven feet
two inches; and, at the top, ten feet: and its height, from
the pavement, including the statue on its summit, 133 feet.
The bassi—rz'lz'evz' with which it is adorned represent the
Dacian wars; and are supposed to have been designed,
and in great measure executed, by Apollodorus. The
statue of Trajan, in bronze gilt, originally stood on the top
of this column; but the existing statue is that of S. Peter,
placed there by Sixtus V. The pedestal of the column
exhibits trophies, eagles, wreaths of oak, 8Lc. most beauti-
fully sculptured"; and originally contained the ashes of
Trajan in a golden urn.

Dogana Pontg'ﬁcz'a. This ediﬁce stands on the ruins of a
large oblong building; each side of which seems to have
been originally decorated with an open portico. Eleven
magniﬁcent ﬂuted Corinthian columns of Greek marble
still remain; and support a noble cornice likewise of Greek
marble: these columns are above thirty-nine feet high,
and particularly well proportioned; their base is attic, and
their capitals are adorned with olive-leaves: they have
suffered cruelly from ﬁre. The quadrangle of the ediﬁce
contains fragments of a ﬁne entablature, and a portico.
Some antiquaries believe this splendid ruin to have been
the Temple of Neptune; but more probably it was the
Basilica quntom'nus Pius.

Obelisk of llIonte-Cz'torz'o. This obelisk, made, it is sup-
posed, in the time of Sesostris, about a. thousand years

* The shields and arms are those of the Daci, the Sarmati,
and their allies, copied from the originals brought to Rome by
Trajan.

280 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

before Christ, was brought to Rome by Augustus; who
used it as the gnomon, or style, of his meridian line, which
was traced on the pavement by means of a bronze dial, near
the temple of J uno—Lucina, now the Church of S. Lorenzo
in Lucina*. The obelisk is of red granite; covered with
hieroglyphics; and its height, from the pedestal to the
bronze globe on its summit, is ninety feet. Pius VI , placed
it on Monte Citorio 1-.

Colomza-Antom'na. This stately historic Column, erected
by the Roman senate to Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, was
dedicated by him .to his father-in-law, Antoninus Pius;
whose statue he placed on its 'summit. It records the
Marcomannic war, in a series of bassi—rz'lz'evz' ,- which seem
to have been imitated from those on Trajan’s column;
though inferior in point of workmanship. It is of the
Doric order; and composed of twenty-eight blocks of white
marble: its diameter being ﬁfteen feet, and its height, from
the base to the top of the statue, one hundred and forty—two
feet. As this column was extremely injured by lightning,
Sixtus V, restored it; at the same time placing on its sum-
mit the statue of S. Paul, which, like that of Antoninus Pius,
is of bronze gilt. .

Mausoleo d’Augusto. Augustus, during his sixth consulate,
erected, in the Campus Martins, this superb Mausoleum for
himself and family: it was encrusted with white marble; and
being raised to a great height, formed a stately dome. The
building seems to have been divided into three stories ; round
which were broad belts, whereon evergreens were planted:
the summit was adorned with a Statue of Augustus; and
two Egyptian Obelisks stood at the entrance. One story

* See PLXNY’s NAT. HIST. l. 36—c. 10.
1 Mom Citorius ,- here formerly stood an Amphitheatre ,- sup-
posed to have been that of Statilius Taurus.

CHAP. n1. ROME. v 9281

alone remains: here, however, are several sepuluhral cham-
bers, tolerably perfect. The Bustum, where the bodies of
the Emperor and his family were burnt, is supposed to have
been in the vicinity of his mausoleum, near the church of S.
Carlo al Corso. So extraordinary are the changes in this
world, that the tomb of Augustus is now converted into a
sort of amphitheatre, for bull-ﬁghts and fire-works !

Campo Mama. The Campus Martins, consecrated, by
Romulus, to the god of war, comprehended an immense
track of ground; extending, in the days of Augustus, from
his Mausoleum to the Theatre of Marcellus; and from the
base of the Pincian, Quirinal, and Capitoline hills, to the
Tiber. In Nero’s reign it is said to have reached to the
Ponte Molle.

Mausoleo—Adrz'ano, now Castel dz' S. Angelo. This mag-
niﬁcent ediﬁce was erected by the Emperor Adrian, nearly
opposite to the Mausoleum of Augustus, and in the garden
of Domitian. It consisted of two stories, with a dome on
the top; was encrusted with Parian marble, surrounded with
stately columns, and adorned with statues. Some persons
imagine the bronze pine, now in the Belvedere-Garden at
the Vatican, to have been originally placed on the summit
of the dome; and to have contained the ashes of Adrian:
while others conjecture that his statue was on the summit,
and that his ashes were deposited beneath, in a porphyry
sarcophagus. After the fall of the Roman empire, this
building became the citadel of Rome; and acquired the ap-
pellation of Castello di S. Angelo, from a statue of the Arch-
Angel, Michael, placed there, to commemorate a vision of
S. Gregorio; who, being on the top of the ediﬁce, thought
he saw an angel announcing to him the cessation of a plague
which, at that period, ravaged Rome. Considerable remains
of the ancient building may still be discovered within the
walls 0f the modern Fortress; the large hall of which merits

282 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CI-IAP.’ v11.

notice; as-it‘is painted, in fresco, by Pierino del Vaga,
Giulio Romano, Sac.

Foreigners, in general, are notallowed to see the interior
of the Fortress of S. Angelo above one or two days in the
year; when the Soldiers of the Garrison have permission to
open the gates, and show the Mausoleum, Sic.

Tempz'o del Sole nel Gz'ardz'no Colonnese. In a small
Street, near the church of Santi Apostoli, is a door leading
up a ﬂight of narrow steps into the Colonna Garden;
where lie immense fragments of what is supposed to have
been the Temple of the Sun, erected by Aurelian. This
ediﬁce, ﬁnely situated on the Quirinal hill, was one of the
largest temples of ancient Rome, if we may judge by the enor-
mous magnitude of the ruins of the frieze and entablature *3
which still remain: they are of white marble, beautifully
sculptured. The columns which supported the entablature
are supposed to have been seventy feet in height. Here
was found a votive table of marble, on which the worship
of Mithras is represented: and as the worship of Mithras,
brought to Rome from Persia, was certainly connected with
that of the sun, such a votive offering is an indication that
the Temple of the Sun stood here. i

This Garden likewise contains ruins of tile Bat/ls of Con-
stantz'ne.

Obelisk of the Piazza (15' Santa JlIarz'a sop-m llIz'nerva.
This little Obelisk, covered with hieroglyphics, was found
near the spot where it now stands; in consequence of ex-
cavations which were made to lay the foundations of the
Convent of the Minerva. The Obelisk which now stands
opposite to the Pantheon, was found in the same place:

* One of the blocks of marble, which made part of the en-
tablature, is twelve feet in length, the same in breadth, and

eleven feet thick.

*4!

CHAP. v11. ROME. * 283

é.
and it is conjectured that the Temples of Iziéand Serapis
stood in this part of Rome; and that these little Obelisks
stood before them. A ﬁne Statue of Minerva, an Isis, a
Serapis, an Isiaic Altar, and other Egyptian antiquities,
were found in this vicinity; as were the celebrated Statues
of the Nile and Tiber; the former of which is now in the
Vatican-Bluseum, the latter at Paris. The obelisk of the
Piazza della Minerva was placed there, by Alexander VII;
and the elephant, on whose back it rests, was designed by
Bernini, and executed by Ferrata.

Claiesa di S. Maria 30pm Jilinerva. This church is sup—
posed to stand on the foundations of a Temple of Minerva,
erected by Pompey the great, in gratitude for his victories:
the interior of the ediﬁce, however, though spacious and
handsome, exhibits no remains of the ancient temple. Be-
hind the high—altar are the tombs of Leo X, and Clement
VII, by Bandinelli; the statue of the former being by
Rafaello da Montelupo, and that of the latter by Bac-
ciobigio. Near the side door is the monument of Cardinal
Alessandrino, designed by Giacomo della Porta; and that
of Cardinal Pimentelli, executed by Bernini: but the most
celebrated piece of sculpture in this church is a statue of
our Saviour holding his cross, by Buonarotill It is near
the high-altar. The Altieri—Chapel contains an altar-piece
by Carlo Liaratta and Baciccio: and the Chapel of the
Annunziata is painted in fresco by Filippino Lippi, Rafael-
lino del Garbo, and Fra Giovanni Angelico da Fiesole,
who was buried in this church. The adjoining Convent
contains the Casanatense Librmy, deemed the best at Rome,
with respect to printed books; and adorned with a statue of
Cardinal Casanatta, by Le Gros.

Pant/won. The Piazza in which this magniﬁcent Temple
stands, was completely ﬁlled with ruins of ancient ediﬁces,
till the Pontiﬁcatc of Eugenius IV, who, on- having these

go:

284‘ TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN’I‘. cunnvu.
it

ruins telear‘ea airway, discovered, before the portico of the
Pantheon, the two Lions of basalt which now adorn the
Fontana di Termine; a Head of Agrippa, in bronze; and
some ornaments, supposed to have belonged to the pedi-
ment. Gregory XIII, erected the Fountain in this Piazza;
and Clement XI, embellished it with the Egyptian Obelisk
before—mentioned. The Pantheon, which has in great mea—
sure deﬁed the injuries of time, seems as if preserved to
latter ages for the purpose of furnishing a just idea of
ancient Roman taste and splendor. The general opinion
appears to be that it was erected by Agrippa, the son-in-
law of Augustus; and repaired by Septimius Severus and
Caracalla; but that Agrippa did not build the portico at
the same time with the rest of the ediﬁce. The Pantheon,
judging from its name, was dedicated to all the gods: though
Agrippa particularly consecrated it to Jupiter the Avenger:
and, according to Dion Cassius, wished to have placed the
statue of Augustus there; and to have inscribed his name as
author of the Temple; which honour the Emperor modestly
declined. Agrippa, therefore, placed the statue of Julius
Caesar in the rotunda, among the deities, and the statues of
Augustus and himself in the large niches on the outside
near the great; door: and probably the portico might have
been added for the purpose of containing these statues.
What strengthens this conjecture is, that immediately over
the portico are traces of the original pediment. Formerly
there were seven steps leading up to the portico; now, two
only are above ground. This stately vestibule is sixty-nine
feet long by forty-one wide, and supported with sixteen
magniﬁcent columns; each being one entire piece of red
oriental granite; the circumference of which is fourteen
feet, and the height forty-two. The bases and capitals are
of the most beautiful white marble yet discovered among
the treasures of antiquity. The portico is surmounted by

 

en AP. vu. ROME. y a 285
s . ,
an entablature and pediment ﬁnely proportioned; and in
the tympan of the latter are holes that served, no doubt,
to ﬁx a basso—rz'lz'evo, now, alas, taken away. The original
bronze doors, embellished with bassi-relz'em', became the spoil
of Genseric, King of the Vandals, who lost them in the
Sicilian sea: the door-case still remains; and the present
doors appear to have been taken from an ancient ediﬁce.
The inside of the temple is circular, and its diameter is an
hundred and forty-nine feet, exclusive of the walls, which
are eighteen feet thick: the height seems to have been the
same as the breadth, till the interior pavement was raised
to a level with that of the portico: for originally there» was
a descent of seven or eight feet into the Pantheon; a con-
struction not unusual in ancient temples. The walls were
incrusted with precious marbles; the frieze is of porphyry ;
and it is supposed that the inside of the dome was originally
covered with silver bassi—rilievz' : the outside was bronze
gilt. The beams of the ceiling of the dome and portico
were cased with thick plates of bronze, which Urban VIII,
took away, to make the Baldacchino in S. Peter’s, and the
cannon of the Castle of S. Angelo; thereby drawing upon
himself the following pasquinade; “ Quad 72071 fecerunt Bar-
barz' Roma’, ﬁcit Barbarini.” All the gods had their
respective statues here, in bronze, silver, gold, or precious
marble: that of Jupiter the avenger is supposed to have
been in the centre of the tribuna; the infernal deities on
the pavement, the terrestrial in the lower niches of the walls,
and the celestial in the upper niches. The pavement is
composed of porphyry and giallo antico, bordered with
other rare marbles; and the aperture in the roof for light
is twenty-ﬁve feet in diameter. Pliny mentions, among the
ornaments, columns with capitals of a metal called Syra-
cusz'an ,- but none of these are preserved; neither do anyof the
Caryatides, nor the other statues executed by Diogenes the

9286 ' . “TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

Athenian, now remain. Pliny likewise mentions, among
the statues, a Venus with earrings made of a pearl cut
asunder; being the fellow of that Which Cleopatra dissolved
in vinegar, and drank to the health of Mark Antony.
Fourteen beautiful columns of the Corinthian order still
adorn the interior of this ediﬁce: and it is said that the two
which stand on each side of the high altar were placed
there by Adrian. The small altars are adorned with
columns of porphyry, giallo antico and granite, paintings
and statues; among the latter of which is a Vestal, found
in the subterranean part of the building; and now, I
believe, called S. Anna. Here are the blonuments of
Metastasio, Raphael, Annibale Caracci*, blengs, Niccolo
Poussin, Perrino del Vaga, Taddeo Zuccari, Flaminio
Vacca, Corelli, Sacchini, VVinkelmann, &c.; together with
Busts ol'a considerable number of other distinguished Cha-
racters, whose talents have adorned Italy.

Bagni d’Agrz'ppa. Immediately behind the Pantheon
were Agrippa’s Baths, of which scarce any vestige remains;
except a semi-circular building, now called Arco della
Cz'ambella.

Piazza-Navona. This was anciently the Circus Ago—
nalz's ,- so called, perhaps, from having been the spot where
the Agonal games, instituted by Numa in honour of Janus,
were celebrated. It is one of the largest Piazzas in Rome ;
and seems to have retained its original shape. Gregory

* Under the bust of Annibale Caracci is an epitaph,mentioning
him as the next painter to Raphael in skill, genius, and reputa-
tion: he was born at Bologna, and designed for a goldsmith;
but his uncle, Ludovico Caracci, observing that both Annibale
and his brother, Agostino, were blessed with great abilities,
took upon himself the oﬂice of instructing them in painting:
and so much did they proﬁt by his lessons, that their memory
will be for ever honoured by all true lovers of the arts.

CHAP. v11. ROME. 287

XIII, adorned it with two Fountains; one: of which is
ornamented with a Triton, by Bernini; and other sculpture,
by various artists: .. and Innocent l ,X, erected the centre
Fountain after the design of Bernini. It consists of a cir-
» . cular basin seventy-three feet in diameter; in the middle of
which rises a rock, adorned on one side with a sea-horse,
and on another with a lion: on the summit of this rock is
an Obelisk of red granite, covered with hieroglyphics, and
ﬁfty-ﬁve feet in height; it was found in' the Circus of Ca-
racalla, who brought it to Rome. The four sides of the
rock are likewise embellished with four colossal statues, re-
presenting four of the principal rivers of the world ; namely,
the Ganges, the Nile*, the Plata, and the Danube. This
fountain does high honour to the taste of Bernini.

C/zz'esa di S. Agnesc, in Piazza—Navona. This Church
stands on the Lupanarz'um of the Circus Agonalis, whither
S. Agnes was dragged, in order to be deﬁled. A staircase
near the Chapel of S. Agnes leads into the Lupanarz’um,
where are considerable remains of antiquity, together with
a basso-rz'lz'evo of S. Agnes miraculously covered with her
own hair ; and said to be one of the best works of Algardi !

The Church of S. Agnes is built in the form of a Greek
cross; and adorned with stately columns of granite, a
beautiful pavement, a cupola ﬁnely-painted by Ciro F erri,
Corbellini, and Baciccio, a Statue of S. Agnes in the ﬂames,
by Hercules Ferrara, an antique statue now called S. Se-
bastiano, a high altar encrusted with ﬂowered alabaster,
and adorned with columns of verde antique; and a group
of the Holy Family, by Domenichino Guido.

The Lupanarium is damp and cold.

Tcatm dz' Marcello, Piazza Montanara. This Theatre,
said to have been the second built at Rome for public ex-
hibitions, was erected by Augustus in honour of his Nephew

* The statue of the Nile has its head covered, to signify that its
source was unknown to the ancients.

288 TRAVELS ON 'THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vn.

Marcellus; and the architecture is so ﬁne as to have served
as a model to all succgeding ages. This ediﬁce was four
stories high; but the two uppeﬁ ones are quite destroyed;
and have buried, in their ruins, the seats, orchestra and
stage. Almost half, however, of the wall of the ﬁrst and
second story, may be traced. The portico of the ﬁrst
story is Doric; the second story Ionic. This theatre was
composed of large blocks of Travertine stone; and held
about twenty-ﬁve thousand spectators. The Orsini-Palace
stands upon its ruins.

Near the Theatre of Marcellus stood the Prison of the
Decemvz'rz'; in which, a woman (according to Pliny and
Valerius l‘daximus), was condemned to be starved to death,
and saved by her daughter; who had not long been brought
to bed; and who got access to her, and supported her with
her milk: till, at length, when this circumstance was dis—
covered, the mother received pardon for the daughters
sake; a pension, likewise, was bestowed upon them; and a
temple erected on the spot to ﬁlial piety.

Portico di Octavia. This magniﬁcent ediﬁce, which
stands in the Pescheria, or ﬁsh-market, was erected by
Augustus in honour of his sister Octavia, chieﬂy for the
purpose of sheltering the people from rain. It seems to
have enclosed a Temple of Jupiter, and another of Juno;
the latter of which suffered from ﬁre, and was repaired by
Septimius Severus and Caracalla. The portico was of a
square form, supported by nearly three hundred columns,
and adorned with statues of the most exquisite workman-
ship: it served as an exhibition-hall for painters on certain
days of the year. The present remains seem to have been
one of the principal entrances: its form is square, with two
fronts, similar to each other, and adorned with ﬂuted Co-
rinthian columns of white marble, supporting an entabla-
ture and pediment, all ﬁnely executed. The Venus de’
Medici was found here.

k
. «:3.

CHAP. vu. ROME. ' 9289

T empio d’Esculapz'o, now Citiesa di S. Bartolomeo This
Church stands on what is called the Island of the Tiber;
being precisely the space between the Pans Cestz'us and the
PonsFabrz'cz'us. The Romans have a tradition that this island

'was formed by the corn belonging to Tarquin the Proud,

in the Campus Martins, having been cut down, and, by
order of the consuls, thrown into the river. About the
year of Rome 462, when the city suffered. from a pestilence,
the Sibylline books were consulted; and an embassy sent,
in consequence, to bring ZEsculapius of Epidaurus to
Rome; when the serpent worshipped by the Epidaurians,
under the name of fEsculapius, followed the ambassadors
into their ship, remained with them during their voyage
home, and then quitted the vessel and swam to the island of
the Tiber, where a temple was built for him: and, to
perpetuate the memory of this event, the ﬁgure of a.
serpent is cut on one of the stones that served for the
foundation of this temple. The serpent, however, is in the
garden of the Convent belonging to the church; and ladies
are not allowed to see the garden without an order from
a Cardinal. The Columns in the church appear to be.
antique, and are supposed to have belonged to the Temple
of fEsculapius; the Sarcophagus, which forms the altar, is
handsome.

Clzz'esa (11' S. Cecilia in Trastevere. This ediﬁce is erected
on the foundations of the house of S. Cecilia; and contains
the Bath wherein she suffered martyrdom. The Court
leading to the church is adorned with a ﬁne antique marble
Vase; and the Portico is embellished with antique Columns,
two of which are granite. The high altar of the church is
adorned with four columns of nero and bianco antico sup-
portng a baldacchino of Parian marble; under which rest
the ashes of S. Cecilia, in a tomb composed of alabaster,
lapis lazuli, jasper, verde antique, agate and bronze gilt.

U

 

290 TRAVELS ON THE CON'I‘INENT. cunnvn.

Here likewise is the statue- of S. Cecilia, by Stefano Ma-
derno, in the positionﬁn which she was found after her
martyrdom! The pavement encircling the altar is of
alabaster and various precious marbles; and the ceiling is
adorned with ancient mosaics. Here, also, are a small
round picture of the Caracci—school; and an ancient pon-
tiﬁcal chair. On the right of the great door of the church
is an ancient Vapour Bath, quite perfect; whose walls
exhibit earthen pipes to convey hot air. This is supposed
to be the Spot where S. Cecilia was killed; it is now con-
verted into a Chapel, and contains two pictures in the style

of Guido; the one representing the decapitation of the

Saint, the other her coronation.
Basilica (11' S. illarz'a in Trastcvm'e, supposed to stand on
the foundations of the Taberna llIm‘itorz'a, which was a

hospital for invalid-soldiers. The portico of this ediﬁce is

supported by antique granite columns, and adorned with
ancient mosaics: it likewise contains several ancient in—
scriptions. The church is a noble structure, divided into
three naves by twenty-two magniﬁcent antique columns of
red and grey granite: four columns of the same description
support a ﬁne architrave; and some of the capitals are
adorned with heads of Jupiter and Juno. The pavement
is that kind of mosaic which was invented by the Emperor
Alexander Severus, and consists of porphyry, verde antique,
8L0. In the centre of the roof of the middle aisle is an
Assumption of the Virgin, by Domenichinolll and the
Chapel to the left, on approaching the high altar, is em—
bellished with frescos attributed to the same great artist.
The baldacchino of the high altar is supported by four
columns of porphyry, and the tribuna adorned with mosaics
of the twelfth century. Here, likewise, are two still more
ancient mosaics; the one representing birds, the other a
sea-port. This Basilica also contains an ancient pontiﬁcal

 

it

CRAP. vn. HOME. 291

Chair; together with the Tombs of two celebrated painters,
the Cav. Lanfranco, and Ciro Ferri.

In the Piazza, before the church, is 3 Fountain, made
during the Pontiﬁcate of Adrian I, and the most ancient of

' modern Rome.

China: (12' S. Prisca, Alon/c Avcntino. On the left, in
ascending the Aventine hill from Home, is this church;
supposed to have been originally a Temple of Diana.
Twenty-four antique columns yet remain; and an Isiaic
table was found near the church; which circumstance leads
some persons to imagine it was a temple of Isis; especially
as Isis had a temple on the Av entine hill.

C'Iziesa (12' S. Sabma. Furthei, to the light, is this noble
ediﬁce, supposed to stand on the foundations of the Temple
of Diana, built by Servius Tullus for the common use of
the cities of Latium ; and therefore called Templmn com-
mune Latz'um : or, else, on the site of the temple of Juno,
built by Camillus. But all we know to a certainty on this
subject is, that the portico exhibits four antique columns,
two of which are rare granite; that the interior of the
church is supported by twenty-four particularly beautiful
antique ﬂuted shafts of Parian marble, with Corinthian
bases and capitals; and that the shape of the church re-
sembles an ancient temple. In the last chapel on the right
of the high altar is a picture, by Sassoferato, representing
the Madonna, S. Domenico, S. Caterina and Angels”
The small paintings round this ﬁne work are good: they
represent the life of our Saviour.

Clziesa (11' S. Alessz'o. Still further to the right is this
Ediﬁce, supposed, by some persons, to have been erected
on the foundations of the Temple of Hercules. Here are
an ancient Pavement and an ancient Well. The high altar
is adorned with ﬁne columns of verde antique; the taber-
nacle is handsome; and adjoining to the church is the villa

If 9

292 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

of the deceased King of Spain, said to stand on, or near,
the site of the Temple of the Dad Bond *1 The Garden
belonging to this Villa commands a ﬁne View. Behind
the Aventine hill is Monte Testaccz'o, anciently Mons Tes-
taceus; which, though one hundred and sixty-three feet in
height, and above ﬁve hundred feet in circumference, is
composed, almost entirely, of potsherds; conjectured to
have been heaped upon this spot, in former ages, by work-
menxbelonging to the potteries of the neighbourhood.

Sepolcro di Cajo Cestz'o. This Pyramid,'erected in me-
mory of Caius .Cestius, Septemvz'r Epulonum, or provider
for the feasts of the gods, measures an hundred and thirteen
feet in height; and each of its four sides is, at the base,
sixty-nine feet in length. It was built, in three hundred
and thirty days, and adorned with paintings, which now
are almost totally eﬁ‘aced. It stands near the Porta S.
Paolo, called Ostz'ense, by Aurelian.

Terme di Caracalla. On the plain below the Aventine,
and opposite to the Celian hill, are the magniﬁcent ruins
of Caracalla’s Baths; which contained sixteen hundred
Sella, or bathing places; and were ornamented with the
Farnese Hercules of Glycon, the group of the Toro Far—
nese, and the celebrated Farnese Flora. The building
seems to have been nearly square; and consisted of subter-
ranean apartments, with two stories above them. In order
to see what remains, drive toward the Porta S. Sebastiano,
till, on the right, you ﬁnd a green lane (called Via An-
tonina), leading to a door 1L, through which you enter a
vast pile of ruins, once part of the Baths. Here may be
traced two immense Courts, which appear to haVe been

* The Earth.
1‘ The person who keeps the key of the door lives in a
Garden near at hand.

CHAP. v-u. ROME. 293

open, with niches for statues, and perhaps for baths like-
wise. Here also are two staircases, and almost innumerable
apartments of various dimension“. The height of the
walls is great; and the whole exhibits one of the best
specimens of ancient Roman architecture now existing.
After having examined these ruins, return down the Via
Antonina; and enter a Garden on the right, which exhibits
remains of the subterranean apartments.

Sepolcro (16’ Scz'pz'onz'. This Tomb is situated in a ‘Vine-
yard, on the Via-Appia, still nearer to the Porta S. Se-
bastiano than are the Baths of Caracalla: it is on the left
side of the way; and the words, “ Sepulc/zra Scipionum,”
are inscribed over the door. The Sarcophagus found here,
and now in the Vatican, is of peperino; marble not having
been introduced at Rome in the days of the Scipios. This
was the tomb of Lucius Cornelius Scipio Barbatus, great
grandfather of Asiaticus and Africanus: it is a handsome
piece of Doric architecture; very perfect, very extensive,
and extremely interesting; though now robbed of its most
valuable treasures. The candles provided by the Custode
of this subterranean repository are so few in number that
persons who wish to see it distinctly should carry lights of
their own: it is excessively damp.

Form (11' S. Scbastz'ano. This is the Appian Gate, some-
times called Capena; though that gate appears to have
stood below the Villa Mattei, between the Celian and
Aventine hills. Immediately within the gate of S. Sebas-
tiano is an Arch, called that (fDrusus ,- though it probably
belonged to an aqueduct.

Basilica (12' S. Sebastiano alle Catacombs). This Church
is about two miles distant from the gate: it has a portico

* By ascending one of these staircases, which is, however, a

service of danger, you see the whole extent of the Baths.

294 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN’I‘. CHAP. VII.

supported by antique columns, and is supposed to have
been erected by Constantine, The high altar is adorned
with four antique columns of green marble; and over the
three doors of ingress are paintings, by Antonio Caracci.
Under this church are Catacombs, originally formed, no
doubt, by the ancient Romans; and whence they took the
pozzolana of which their buildings were made. The Chris—
tians enlarged these Catacombs; and, in times of persecu-
tion, used them as hiding-places and cemeteries: they are
said to extend several miles. It is often necessary to stoop
in going through these caverns; but, generally speaking,
they are neither damp nor difﬁcult of access. The passages
are from two to three feet wide; the chambers (of which
there are several), from four to six feet broad, and from six
to eight in length; some of them being still larger; and
here it is said the primitive Christians performed their re-
ligious exercises. In the walls are cavities about a span
and a half high, and between four and ﬁve long; many of
which are open and empty; others closed with a piece of
marble, sometimes containing an inscription. Few of these
cavities appear large enough to contain a full-grown person;
though the skeletons of children have frequently been found
in them; and this circumstance makes the conjecture, that
children, among the ancients, were oftener buried than
burnt, very plausible. Here have been discovered several
lachrymatories; and here likewise are places for cinerary
urns. \Vhen this mark, “ P,” is found upon a monument,
it is deemed a sure indication ot‘a niartyr’s sepulchre, being
a composition, from the Greek and Latin alphabets, to
denote I’ro ( 'l'n'isio. The cross on a monument is also
considered as a sign that a Christian lies buried there; but
it should be remembered that a cross was the Egyptian
emblem of eternal life; and many crosses have been dis-
covered upon Egyptian tombs, and likewise in the temples

 

i: A
v; ‘

can). v11. ROME. 95

of Serapis. The churches of S. Lorenzo and S. Agnes
also lead to ancient Catacombs, whose extent cannot be
accurately known, because it is impossible to explore every
part of them; as their communications with each other are
so intricate that several persons have lost themselves in
these subterranean labyrinths; which are, however, sup-
posed to be the Putz'culz' mentioned by Horace, Varro, and
Fastus Pompeius, where the bodies of slaves only, or persons
whose circumstances would not allow of their being burnt
on funeral piles, were deposited: but, in process of time,
persons of a higher rank might probably be interred here;
for the Romans, before Christianity prevailed, often buried
their dead 3 as is evident from monumental inscriptions be-
ginning with the words Diis llanibus. The Chapel of the
Catacombs of S. Sebastiano contains a bust of that Saint,
by Bernini! It is necessary to carry lights, in order to see
these Catacombs well.

Cerclzio (1i Caracalla. On the left side of the road, and
at the foot of the hill on which stands the tomb of Cecilia
lVIetella, is the Circus of Caracalla, together with ruins of
various ediﬁces belonging to it. The ﬁrst of these that pre-
sents itself, is a large Rotunda, supposed to have been the
quarters of the Pretorian Guard, while the Emperor attended
the Circus : and, enclosing this Rotunda, whose second story
was a temple, are remains of a double row of lofty walls,
between which, it is supposed, were the stables of the horses
used for the chariot-races; while the open inner-space, or
quadrangle, where stood the before-named temple, contained
the cars. Near this building is an ancient sepulch re, leading
to the Circus-of Caracalla, which is more perfect than any
other of the whole ﬁfteen, that once adorned Rome; for
here, the Illetce, the Spine, the situation of the Obelisk, the
seats, and the porticos whither the spectators retired in case
of rain, are all discoverable. The Emperor’s seat, or Podium,

a;
296 . TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

seems to have been opposite to the ﬁrst Meta ,- and from the
Podium he gave the signal to begin the race. The Spina
was raised above the level of the Arena; that the cars might

,not break in upon the obelisks, altars, and statues, which

adorned it. The Meta was broader than the Spina ,- and
along the sides of the Circus, between the seats and the
arena, was a ditch, ﬁlled with water, to prevent the cars
from approaching too near the spectators. There was a
space of about twelve feet between the Meta? and sz'na,
serving as a passage to the latter, and to the cells where, it is
supposed, the altars of Consus were concealed: he seems to
have been the God of Counsel; and hence the Romans
called a consultation, Consz'lz'um, and their chief magistrates,
Consules: they hid the altar under-ground, to signify that
counsels ought to be kept secret. In the great area, between
the ﬁrst Meta and the Carceres, combats of gladiators and
wild beasts were exhibited; and sometimes water was intro-
duced, and Naumac/zz'ce represented. In the walls of this

.Circus, and likewise in those which surround Rome, are

earthen pots, whose spherical shape, operating like arches,
diminished the perpendicular weight of the fabric, and con-
tributed to strengthen it. The triumphal gate, through
which the victors drove, is still nearly perfect; and precisely
opposite to the gate of the Via-Appia: the water, likewise,
still remains in the Circus; which is supposed to have con-
tained about twenty thousand spectators. To the north of
this Circus, in a neighbouring Vineyard, are considerable
remains of the Temples of Honour and Virtue, built by
hiarcellus, after his Sicilian conquests, in the year of Rome
544 ; and so constructed that it was impossible to enter the
former, without passing through the latter.

Sepolcro dz' Cecilia IlIetella. Had not the Roman Barons,
in the middle age, converted this beautiful ediﬁce into a for—
tress, and built a parapet and port-holes round its summit,

CHAP. vn. ROME. 297

it might have lasted to eternity; so durable is the manner of
its construction. The monument was erected by Crassus,
to enclose the remains of his wife, Cecilia Metella; and not-
withstanding the above-named ugly parapet, is one of the
best preserved sepulchral fabrics of ancient Rome.

About two miles from this monument is an ancient public
Ustrz'na, or Burial-place: and near the Fossa’ Cluilid’, in
this neighbourhood, about ﬁve miles from Rome, and on
a spot now called Casale Rotondo, is the scene of combat
between the Horatii and Curiatii.

Basilica di S. Pa0l0,fu0ri delle Mum. This vast ediﬁce
was erected by Constantine over the grave of S. Paul;
enlarged by Theodosius, and ﬁnishedby Honorius. The
length of the ediﬁce, exclusive of the tribuna, is 240
feet, and its breadth 138 feet. Antique columns, an hun-
dred and twenty in number, divide it into ﬁve aisles; and
twenty—four of these columns, placed in the middle-aisle,
were taken from Adrian’s hiausoleum: they are of rare
marble, called pavonazzo, beautifully ﬂuted in a peculiar
manner, and of the Corinthian order; each shaft being one
entire piece. The pillars which support the great arch of
the tribnna are forty-two feet in height, and ﬁfteen in cir—
cumference: and behind the shrine of S. Paul is a column,
with an equilateral Parian marble base of seven feet, ﬁnely
worked. The pillars that adorn the altars are porphyry;
and under the high altar, which is rich in precious marbles,
rest the ashes of S. Paul. The arch of the great nave is
ornamented with mosaics of the year 4-40; and on the walls,
above the columns, are portraits of all the Popes, two hun-
dred and ﬁfty—three in number, beginning with S. Peter and
ending with Pius VII. The pavement abounds with frag-
ments of ancient sepulchral inscriptions; and the centre
entrance-door, consisting of bronze embellished with bassi-
rilievi, was cast at Constantinople in 1070. The outside of

m .

'4th

298 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII.

this church is adorned with mosaics; and under the portico
of the adjoining Cloister are antique marbles and inscrip-
tions *.

C/ziesa (11' S. Paolo alle tre Fontane. Near two miles
beyond the Basilica of S. Paul is the spot where this great
Apostle suﬂ'ered; and where considerable numbers of Chris-
tians were executed, by command of the Emperor Dioclesian,
after he had employed them in erecting his Baths. On this
spot are three Churches: the ﬁrst, S. Alana Scala Caelz',
was built by Vignola, and is deemed a good piece of archi-
tecture: the inside, an octagon, contains a mosaic, by Fran-
cesco Zucca, of the school of Vasari; said to be the ﬁrst
thing of its kind executed in good taste, after the revival of
the arts. The second Church, that of Saints Viacenzo and
Anastasia, contains frescos of the twelve Apostles, a lVolz' me
tangmz', and the Baptism of our Saviour; all executed after
the designs of Raphael, but much injured, except the two
last. The third Church, that of S. Paul, was built by Gia—
como della Porta, and does honour to his taste. The interior
of the ediﬁce contains two altars, and three Fountains, called
miraculous; together with ten columns of rare marble, which
adorn the fountains and altars. Here is a White Stone, on
which the head of S. Paul is supposed to have been cut off:
and here, likewise, is a Picture of the Cruciﬁxion of S. Peter,
by Guido; which appears to have been ﬁnely executed, but
is now much spoiled.

Excavations on the estate oftlze Duo/less qulzabIaz's. Re—
turning from S. Paolo alle tre F ontane, you see, on the right,
not far distant from the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, two ex-
cavations, which have recently disclosed the lower part of
two ancient Roman Villas. That nearest to the tomb of

* The Kings of England were the protectors of the Basilica

of 8.1321111 before the. rcl'ommtion.

CHAP. v11. ROME. Q99

Cecilia Metella is supposed to have belonged to the Consul
Marcus Procus, or his daughter; and exhibits the shapes
and walls of several rooms, where bassi—rz'lz'evz' and a statue
have been found; and also some beautiful pavements. The
rooms seem to have been painted like those at Pompeii. The
plan of this Villa is discoverable, so far as to prove that the
apartments were small, though numerous, Here I found
ancient glass, some pieces being very thick, and others very
thin, and in a state of decay. The Villa on the hill to the
left exhibits subterranean arches, above which are the founda-
tions of a square portico, once supported, as it seems, by
forty stuccoed pillars. The centre of this portico is not ex-
cavated: the walls appear to have been adorned with paint-
ings; and the ﬂoors paved, like those of the opposite Villa.
The ﬁrst-mentioned Villa was discovered in consequence of
a piece of tessellated pavement being worked out of a mole-
hill.

Fom‘ana della Dea .Egerz'a, consecrated to this Nymph
and the Muses, by Numa Pompilius. A mutilated Statue,
called that of Egeria, is still visible at the upper end of this
Grotto; she is in a recumbent posture; and round the grotto
are niches, wherein the lVIuses are supposed formerly to
have stood *.

Cbz'csa dz' S. Urbano alla Cqﬂfzrella. On the eminence
above the Fountain of Egeria is a Church dedicated to S.
Urbano; and originally an ancient Temple; supposed, by
some writers, to have been consecrated to Bacchus, because
it' contains an altar dedicated to him. According to other

* The lower classes of the Roman people go annually, on the
ﬁrst Sunday in May, to the valley of Eweria; where they eat,
drink, crown themselves with ﬂowers, and then return to Rome
in the evening, dancing and singing to various instruments of
music, like so many Bacchannls.

300 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11.

opinions, however, this was originally the Temple of the
Muses. Four ﬂuted Corinthian columns of white marble,
which once supported the portico, now adorn the outside of
the church: the inside is ornamented with a ﬁne frieze of
stucco, and medallions of the same on the roof.

Temple 612' Redz'colo, or more properly Redeundo. This
Temple was erected when Hannibal raised the siege of
Rome, and returned toward Naples; and, therefore, called
the Temple ofﬂze Return, as the word expresses. It is a,
beautiful brick ediﬁce, adorned with pilasters; and once had
a portico, now quite destroyed.

Perm-Pia. This Gate, built by Pius IV, was anciently
called Porta-Nomentana ,- because it led to Nomentum.

C/zz'esa (12' S. Agnesefuore dz' Form-Pia. ,This Ediﬁce,
which is about one mile from Rome, was erected by Con—
stantine over the grave of S. Agnes, at the desire of his
daughter Constantia. A corridor, containing forty-eight
steps of ﬁne marble, leads down into the church ; and on the
walls of this corridor are ancient inscriptions. The nave is
supported by sixteen antique columns; two of which are
beautifully ﬂuted; and the only specimen of the kind now to
be met with at Rome. Four other columns, near the high
altar, are of rare marble; and those which support the bal-
dacchino are of the ﬁnest porphyry. The high altar is of
precious marbles; and under it lie the ashes of St Agnes.
The Chapel of the Bladonna contains a beautiful antique
Candelabrum, and a head of our Saviour, by Buonaroti.

Clzicsa (11' S. Costanza. Near the church of S. Agnes is
that of S. Costanza; dedicated, by Constantine, to Christian
worship, that it might serve as a burial~place for his daughter.
This elegant rotunda, supposed to have been originally a
temple consecrated to Bacchus, still retains its ancient form.
The cupola is supported by twenty-tour granite columns,
placed in a double circle; and in the middle of the church

CHAP. vu. ROME. 801

is an elevated square, on which the pagan altar seems for.
merly to have stood, and where the remains of S. Costanza
afterward rested. That part of the roof nearest to the cir-
cular wall is adorned with beautiful ancient mosaics, repre-
senting a vintage, birds, and arabesques; and apparently
executed when the arts were in their highest perfection. The
porphyry sarcophagus, ornamented with boys and grapes,
which is now in the Vatican Museum, was taken from this
temple.

Adjoining to the church of S. Costanza are considerable
remains of a Hippodrome, built by Constantine, where horses
were trained and exercised.

A little further on, is the Villa-Faonte, where Nero was
supposed to kill himself; and about one mile from this villa
is the Ponte Lamentcmo, anciently Pans Nomentanus, near
which are remains of two Sepulchres ; that on the left seems
to have been the tomb ofMenenius Agrippa, and now serves
as a shelter for oxen; the other is nearly destroyed. Im-
mediately behind these tombs rises, in an amphitheatrical
form, the M0723 Sacer; whither the Plebeians retired, in
the year of Rome 260, by the advice of Sicinius ; till per-
suaded to return, by the eloquence of the above-named Me-
nenius Agrippa: and whither they again retired, in the year
of Rome 305, in consequence of the tyranny of Appius
Claudius.

Porta di S. Lorenzo. This ediﬁce was one of the arches
of the BIartian, Tepulan, and Julian aqueduct, made into
a City Gate by Aurelian; who called it Porta—Collatina,
because it leads to Collatia, where Lucretia killed herself.

Basilica di S. Lorenzo. About one mile from the gate of
S. Lorenzo is this church; which was erected by Constan-
tine on the foundations of a temple consecrated to Neptune,
of which there are considerable and beautiful remains;
namely, the six pillars of the portico, four of which are

302 TRAVELS ON'THE CONTINEXT? (:HAP. vu.

ﬂuted; two pillars of green porphyry at the extremity of
the tribuna behind the high altar; four of red porphyry,
which support the baldacchino; a ﬁne antique cornice
round the tribuna; ten ﬂuted columns of pavonazzo, partly
buried in the earth, two of them having military capitals,
the other eight Corinthian capitals beautifully executed;
twenty-two columns of oriental granite, which support the
nave; together with some very ancient pavement, and some
of the time of Constantine. To the right, on entering the
church, is a Sarcophagus adorned with bassi-rz'lz'evz' repre-
senting an ancient marriage-ceremony ! and behind the high
altar is another Sarcophagus with Bacchanalian emblems.
The ashes of S. Lorenzo, and other Christian Martyrs, rest
here.

Porta Maggiore. This gate, formerly called Prae—
nestz'na, is one of the arches of the Castellum of the
Claudian aqueduct, which conveyed three streams of water
to Rome; two coming forty-ﬁve miles, and the third above
sixty. It is practicable, by the aid of a ladder, to ascend
into this Aqueduct at the Gate of S. Lorenzo. The ancient
Porta-Prrenestz'na seems to have been so called because it
led to Praeneste; and the modern name might probably have.
been given because the gate stands in the road to S. l\Iaria
lVIaggiore.

About two miles distant from the Porta-BIaggiore, and
parallel with the ancient Via Praeneste, is a spot, called Tor
de’ Sclzz'avz'; where, among other ruins of an ancient Roman
Village, are the remains of three Temples, one of which
is well preserved, and the subterranean part particularly
merits notice.

Porta S. Giovanni. This Gate, anciently called Celz'mon-
1mm, from being placed on the JVImzs C(rlz'us, was restored
by Gregory XIII, according to the designs of Giacomo
della Porta.

CHAP. vn. ROME. 303

The road beyond the Porta S. Giovanni exhibits mag-
niﬁcent remains of the Claudian, Tepulan, and Marcian
aqueducts; together with several ancient tombs: and pre—
vious to passing the Acqua Santa, formerly called Salertare,
you see, on the right, a small, square, brick ediﬁce, adorned
with Doric columns, and supposed to have been the Temple
of Forz‘mzw Illulccbris, erected, by the Roman senate, in
honour of the ladies, on the spot where Veturia and Volum-
nia overcame the determination of Coriolanus. This Tem-
ple was restored by Faustina the younger. Further on to
the right, and about ﬁve miles from Rome, is a large farm,
belonging to the Torlonea family, and called Roma V ecclzz'a ,-
but probably, nothing more than an ancient Roman village;
(as the suburbs of the'city could scarcely have extended so
far); where, among other ruins, are the remains of a Theatre,
and Reservoirs of Baths, one of them being full of water:
they precisely resemble the“ Sette Salle of the Baths of Titus.
Beyond these reservoirs, and still further to the right, is a
peculiarly shaped Tomb, which belonged to the family of
Cecilia Metella.

GATES OF ROIME, NOT ALREADY EVIENTIONED.

Perm-Angelica, built by Pius IV. Near this Gate passed
the Via T rz‘ump/Ialz's, which came down from the Clz'vus
Cz'nme, a part of the Janiculum, and now called Monte
Mario.

Perm-Latina, supposed to have been the Portal—Firm-
tina.

Porta-Pincz'ana, said to have taken its name from the
palace of the Pincian family, which stood near it, and from
whom the whole hill was called Mons Pz'ncz'us.

Porta-Portense, so denominated from the magniﬁcent
harbour of Porto, constructed by Claudius. The gardens

l

304: TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.VII.

which Julius Caesar bequeathed to the people are supposed
to have been near this gate.

Porta (12' S. Pancrazz'o, anciently called Aurelia. By this
Gate Trajan’s Aqueduct enters Rome: its course is thirty-
ﬁve miles; and in consequence of having been renewed and
augmented by Paul V, it is now called Acqua-Paolo.

BRIDGES OF ROME.

P0713 Elias, now Ponte S. Angelo. This ﬁne bridge
was constructed by the Emperor Adrian, and repaired by
Clement IX; whoj under the direction of Bernini, adorned
it with balustrades and statues, which still remain.

Pans Trz'ump/zalz's, so called, because the Roman generals
passed over this bridge, when they obtained the honour of
a triumph. It is now destroyed; but its remains may be
discovered between the Castle of S. Angelo and the church
of S. Giovanni de’ Fiorentini when the Tiber is low.

Ponte Sisto, formerly called Pans Janiculensz's, on account
of its proximity to the J aniculum hill. According to some
opinions this bridge was built by Trajan; and, according to
others, by Antoninus Pius. It was repaired by Sextus IV,
and, in consequence, called by his name.

Pans Ibbricius, now Panic dez' Quaitro Capt" This Bridge
was constructed, in the year of Home 733, by Fabricius,
Curator V z'amm (inspector of roads), and called Quattro
Capi from two Hermae of Janus Quadrifons, with which it
was ornamented. ,

Pans Cestius, now Pam‘e (H S. Bartolomeo. This Bridge
was constructed by Cestius, in the time ofthe Republic, and
repaired about the year 375 of the Christian aera.

P0723 Palatinus, or Senatorz'us, broken down, and now
called Pontc Botto. This was the ﬁrst ediﬁce of its kind
which the ancient Romans built of stone. The Censor,

CHAP. v11. ROME. 305

F ulvius, is supposed to have begun, and Scipio Africanus
and L. Mummius to have ﬁnished it. Julius III, and Gre-
gory XIII, repaired this bridge; but the extraordinary
inundations of 1598, totally destroyed it.

P0213 Sublz'cz'us. This Bridge, the ﬁrst thrown over the
Tiber, was the work of Ancus Martius; and acquired the
name of Sublz'cz'us from the wooden piles which supported it.
On this bridge Horatius Cocles stopped the army'of Por-
sena, till the Romans had broken down that part which was
behind their gallant Leader; who then threw himself into
the river, and swam to Rome. After that event the planks
were laid across, without being ﬁxed with nails, that they
might be removed, in case of sudden danger. This bridge
was repaired, under Augustus, by M. fEmilius Lepidus;
and afterward by Antoninus Pius: but an inundation, in the
year 780, broke it down; and under Nicolas V, it was
wholly destroyed. From this bridge the bodies of Com-
modus and Heliogabalus were thrown into the Tiber; and
when that river is low, the remains of the foundations of the
bridge may be seen from Ripa—Grande.

306

CHAPTER VIII.

ROME.

Basilica di S. Pietro- Obelisk—Fountains—Colon'nades—
Covered Galleries—Exterior decorations of the Church—-
Interior dimensions, &c.—Subterranean Church—Ascent
to the Cupola and the top of S. Peter’s—Old Sacristg—
New Sacristg— Vaticano—ﬂluseo— Chiaramonti—ﬁluseo-
Pio—Clementino—Libreria-Vaticano—Chiesa dei P. P.
Cappuccini—Palazzo-Barberini—Chvz'esa di S. Alarm
della Vittoria—Fontana di Termine—Chiesa di S. An-
drea—Palazzo-Pontg'ﬂcio—Palazzo—Rospigliosi—-—Garden
ofditto—Villa,Aldobrandini—Fontana di Trevi—Chiesa
di S. [Maria del Popolo—di S. Carlo al Corso—di S.
Igndzio—di S. S. ApostoZi—di S. Illarz'a d5 Loretta—di
Gesﬁ—di S. Andrea della Valle—della Trivnitti de’ Pele-
grini—di S. Carlo a Catenari—di S. Giovanni di F io-
rentini—di S. .Maria in Vallicella—di S. ﬂfaria delta
Pace—di S. Agostino —-—Pa[azzo-Lueiano — Ballg'hese—a
Sciarra—Dorz'a — B'raccimzo— Colonna —— Giustin iam’ ——
111 assimi—S pada—M attei—Costaguti—F a mese—Far—
nesina—Falconieri—Corsi'ni—Accademia di S. Luca—
Villa-Olgiati—Borghese—Ludovz'sia—Albani—ﬂIattei—
Church of S. 071(frio—Fmtaiza-Paolina—Villa-Doria-
Pamﬁli—Madama—ﬂIellini—Hospitals——11Iosaic ﬁla-
mgfacture— Artists — Bankers —— Theatres —Carnz' val——
Festival on the Monte Testaccio—Amusements during
Lent—Ceremonies of the Holy IVeek—Illumination of
S. Peter‘s—~Fireworks—Days on which the Pope qﬂiciates

 

CHAP. vm. ROME. 807

in public—Funeral qf't'hc exiled Queen of Spain—En-
tertainments given to the Emperor of‘Austria———Kindness
of the present Pope to the British Nation—Protestant-
Chapcl Promclzadcs—Hotcls—List (y'Olgjc'cts best worth

notice, as they lie contiguous to each other.

 

BASILICA (Ii S. Pietro. S. PETER’S is placed on the
summit of a gentle acclivity, in an immense Piazza of an
oval form, once the Circus of Nero. Its centre is adorned
with an Obelisk of red Egyptian granite; the only one
which has been preserved entire; it was transported from
Heliopolis to Rome by order of Caligula; and afterward
placed, _by Nero, in his Circus*: it measures 124 feet from
the ground to the top of the cross; and was erected by
Sextus V, under the direction of Fontana; who, in order
to raise it out of the earth in which it lay buried, contrived
forty-one machines with strong ropes and iron rollers; and
though all the powers of these machines were applied at
once, by means of 800 men and 160 horses, the work was
not accomplished under eight days: and to transport the
Obelisk to the place where it now stands, though only 300
paces from the spot where it lay, cost four months’ labour.
But the greatest proof of Fontana’s skill in mechanics was
displayed when be elevated this stupendous mass, and ﬁxed
it in its present situation, by the aid of machines consisting
of ﬁfty—two powers, all of which were applied at the same
moment, in obedience to pre—concerted signals. Being
raised to a proper height, it was placed, amidst the acclama—
tions of the people and the discharge of cannon from the
Castle of S. Angelo, on the backs of four lions, without any
cement; its own ponderosity being sufﬁcient to insure it

* The dimensions of the vessel which conveyed this Obelisk
to Rome, are given by PLIN’Y, LIB. xvi. Cap. 40.

5:2

308 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARVIII.

from falling. Report says, however, that Fontana nearly
miscarried in this last operation; the ropes having stretched
so much more than he expected, that the Obelisk could
not have been raised high enough to rest on its pedestal, if
an English sailor, at a time when every spectator was re-
stricted from speaking, lest the signals should not be heard
by the workmen, had not, in deﬁance to this order, called
out—“ Wet the ropes ;” which, being accordingly done,
the Obelisk was raised immediately to its destined height.
One of the beautiful Fountains that adorn this Piazza was
erected by Innocent VIII; the other by Clement X; and
the Colonnades (deemed a master-piece of architecture) were
built by Bernini, during the Pontiﬁcate of Alexander VII-
Their form is semi-circular; and they consist of 28% large
Doric columns of Travertine stone, intermixed with eighty-
eight pilasters, and forming, on each side of the Piazza, a
triple portico, that in the centre being sufficiently spacious
for two carriages to pass each other. The height of these
colonnades is sixty-one feet, the breadth ﬁfty-six, and on
the entablature is a balustrade adorned with 192 statues,
each being eleven feet and a half in height. The Fountains
were made after the designs of Carlo )Iaderno ; they throw
a considerable body of water nine feet high; and the cir—
cular basins 'which receive this water are entire pieces of
oriental granite, ﬁfty feet in circumference. Beyond the
colonnades are two magnificent covered Galleries, each
being 360 feet long, and leading to the Vestibulc of the
Basilica, which stands on the summit of a noble ﬂight of
steps, adorned with statues of S. Peter and S. Paul, by
Mino di Fiesole. The Vestibule (which is 439 feet long,
by thirty-seven wide and sixty-two feet high), contains eques-
trian statues of Constantine and Charlemagneﬁ together

* The statue of Charlemagne was done by Agostino Cornac-
chini, and that of Constantine by Bernini,

 

GHAP. vm. ROME. . 309

with a celebrated Mosaic, by Giotto, called La Navicella dz'
S. Pietro. The front of the Basilica, which was built ac-
cording to the designs of Carlo Maderno, is adorned with
immense Corinthian columns and pilasters of Travertine
stone; and terminated by a balustrade surmounted by
thirteen colossal statues, seventeen feet in height, and re-
presenting our Saviour and the Apostles. The basso-rz'lz'evo,
under the balcony in the centre of the building, is by
Buonvicino, and represents our Saviour giving the keys to
S. Peter. The centre door of the church is bronze, adorned
with bassi—rz'lz'evi ,- and was made during the Pontiﬁcate of
Eugenius IV; and over, this door is a basso—rz'lz'evo, by
Bernini, representing our Saviour entrusting the care of
his ﬂock to S. Peter. The circumstance of that Apostle
having been buried in the Circus of Nero induced Con-
stantine to erect, over his remains, a spacious church;
which, having stood eleven centuries, and at length falling
into decay, Nicholas V, began to rebuild it, about the year
1450, after the plans of Rosellini and Alberti: his suc-
cessors, however, discontinued the work, till the Pontiﬁcate
of Paul II, under whom it went on. Julius II, who was
elected Pope about thirty years after the death of Paul,
chose the famous Bramante as his architect; and this artist
formed the design of erecting a cupola in the centre of the
ediﬁce. On the demise of Julius and Bramante, Leo X,
entrusted the work to Raphael, and other artists; after
whose death Paul III, chose Sangallo as his architect; and,
upon the decease of this artist, the last—mentioned Pope
committed the work to Buonaroti, who made a new design
for the cupola: he likewise intended to have erected a
portico, resembling that of the Pantheon; but death frus-
trated his purpose. Succeeding artists, however, were '
directed to go on with his cupola; which was completed
during the Pontiﬁcate of Sextus V. Carlo Maderno

310 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm.

ﬁnished the other part of the church, in the Pontiﬁcate of
Paul V; and Pius VI, erected the new Sacristy. Buonaroti
intended to have built Sp. Peter’s in the form of a Greek
cross; but Carlo Maderno followed the plan of Bramante,
and made a Latin one. In the year 1694, this ediﬁce was
supposed to have cost 47,000,000 of Roman crowns; and
much more has been since expended, for the mosaics, the
new Sacristy, 8w.

The interior length of S. Peter’s, from the entrance-door
to the end of the tribuna, is six hundred and thirteen En-
glish feet; the breadth of the nave two hundred and seven,
the breadth of the cross seventy—eight, the diameter of the
cupola one hundred and thirty—nine, the height, from the
pavement to the ﬁrst gallery, one hundred and seventy-four,
to the second gallery, two hundred and forty, to the repre-
sentation of the Deity in the lanthorn, three hundred and
ninety-three, and .to the summit of .the exterior cross, four
hundred and fifty-eight feet *9. So admirably proportioned
is this church, that, notwithstanding its immense size, no
person, at ﬁrst sight, perceives the dimensions to be remark—
ably large: and the statues of children, which support the
vases for holy water, do not appear more than three feet in
height, though they are really gigantic. The interior of
this master—piece of human genius is inerusted with rare and
beautiful marbles, adorned with the ﬁnest pictures in mosaic
existing, and supported by an immense number of magni-
ﬁcent columns, the greater part of which are antique; and
seven, if report speak true, were taken from Solomon’s
Temple. The pavement is marble, and very handsome.

T he Sacra Con cssz'one was designed by Carlo hiaderno,
and is superbly decorated with costly lamps and precious

* These dimensions are taken from a table in manuscript,
hung up in the lower gallery of the Cupola.

can. vm. ROME. ' 311

marbles. The Baldacchino was erected by Urban VIII,
after the designs of Bernini; and is made of bronze gilt, and
nearly ninety feet high. The designs for the mosaics in the
Cupola under which the baldacchino stands, were drawn
by Giuseppe d’Arpino; and the Evangelists particularly
merit notice; as does the statue of S. Andrew near the high
altar, by Du Quesnoy, and that of S. Domenico, by Le
Gros. The bronze statue of S. Peter is said to have been
cast during the Pontiﬁcate of Gregory the Great, from the
fragments of a demolished statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. \At
the upper end of the middle nave is the Tribuna, decorated
according to the designs Pf Buonaroti; and containing the
Chair of S. Peter; abore which the Holy Ghost is repre-
sented in painted glass, in the form of a dove. On each
side of the Tribuna is a magniﬁcent Monument; that on the
right, by Bernini, being in memory of Urban VIII,- (whose
statue is ﬁnely executed in bronze); and that on the left
designed by Buonaroti, and executed by Guglielmo della
Porta, in memory of Paul IIIH it represents Prudence as
an old woman, and Justice as a girl so beautiful that a
Spaniard, Pygmalion like, is said to have fallen in love with
this last—named statue; in consequence of which it was
clothed with a bronze garment. Near the tribuna is the
tomb of Alexander VIII, adorned with a beautiful basso-
rz'lievo, by Angelo Rossi; and over the altar of S. Leo the
Great, between columns of red oriental granite, is an alto-
rilievo of that Pope threatening Attila, King of the Huns,
with the vengeance of S. Peter and S. Paul, by Algardi !!
Near this altar are two ﬁne hIosaics*‘:; the one representing

* These Mosaics, called Roman, consist of small pieces of glass
(some of them being scarcely largerpthan pins’ heads) tinctured
with all the different degrees of colour necessary to form a pic-
ture: and, when the mosaics are ﬁnished, they are polished in

312 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

the cruciﬁxion of S. Paul, being a copy from a celebrated
. picture, by Guido: the other representing the fall of Simon
lVIagus, was copied from a celebrated picture by Francesco
Vanni. Further on is a Mosaic of Raphael’s Transﬁgura—
tion; and near it the tomb of Leo XI, by Algardi. On
this side of the church is the Capella del Coro, where the
Cardinals, Canons, 8:0. assemble daily, to attend divine
worship; and where there frequently is particularly good
music. Not far hence, in an unornamented tomb, rest the
remains of Pius VI; illustrious for the patience and resigna-
tion he displayed in adversityii; and over the door which
leads to the Cupola is a monument to the memory of Maria
Clementina Sobieschi, with her picture copied in mosaic by
the Cav. Cristofari, from a painting by Sterne. The last
Chapel on this side contains the baptismal Font, originally
the tomb of the Emperor Otho II; it consists of porphyry,
with bronze ornaments, executed by Fontana. Over the
altar in this Chapel is a ﬁne hiosaic, copied from a celebrated
picture by Carlo Maratta, representing the baptism of our
Saviour. On the opposite side of the church is a Chapel
containing a Pz'ez‘a‘ by Buonaroti, which appears to disad-
vantage from not being equally colossal with almost every
other surrounding object: the Frescos here are by Lan-
franco: on this side, likewise, is a Chapel containing a

the same manner as mirrors. The ground on which these vitreous
particles are placed consists of calcined marble, ﬁne sand, gum-
tragacanth, whites of eggs, and oil; which composition con-
tinues, for some time, so soft that there is no difﬁculty either in
arranging the pieces, or altering any which may have been im-
properly placed: but, by degrees, it grows as hard as marble;
so that no impression can be made on the work.

* A monument to the memory of this unfortunate Pontiﬂ' is
now making.

 

CHAP. VIIL ROME. 313

Column said to be that against which our Saviour leaned
when he disputed with the Doctors; and a Sarcophagus
which once enclosed the ashes of Probus Anicius, Prefect of
Rome. The Braschi—Chapel contains a Cruciﬁx, by Ghir—
landajo. Further on, toward the high altar, is the tomb of
Christina of Sweden, by Fontana ; and over the altar of the
Chapel of S. Sebastiano is a ﬁne hlosaic of the martyrdom
of that Saint, copied from a celebrated picture, by Domeni-
chino. Beyond this Chapel is the tomb of the Countess
hIatilda (who died in 1115), by Bernini ; and opposite to
the Cappella del Coro is the Cappella del Sacramento,
which contains a rich Tabernacle, made after the designs of
Bernini, and an Altar-Piece painted in fresco by Pietro di
Cortona: here, likewise, is the tomb of Sixtus IV, in
bronze, adorned with bassi—rz'lz'evz' by Antonio Pollajuolo.
Further on is the tomb of Gregory XIII, adorned with
statues of Religion and Energy, the latter of which is much
admired; and near this monument is a beautiful copy, in
mosaic, of Domenichino’s c/zgp-d’oeuvre, the communion of
S. Girolamo; for which picture he received only three
crowns. Further on, is a copy, in mosaic, of the martyr-
dom of S. Erasmus, by Niccolo Poussin. Nearer still to
the tribuna is a copy, in mosaic, of S. Peter sinking, by
Lanﬁ'anco: and opposite to this lVIosaic is the monument of
Clement XIII, by Canova (now h’Iarchese d’Ischia), who
has adorned it with recumbent statues of two lions, both ex-
cellently executed, and especially that which sleeps. Further
on is a copy, in mosaic, of Guido’s c/zrrf-d’cezwrc, the Arch-
Angel hIichael, and likewise a copy, in mosaic, of Guer—
cino’s celebrated picture, representing the story of S. Petro-
nilla. This is deemed the ﬁnest Mosaic in S. Peter’s; and
was executed by the Cav. Cristofari. Beyond the altar
of S. Petronilla is the monument of Clement X, whose
statue was done by Ercole F errata: and opposite to this

 

314 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. crur. vm.

tomb is a copy, in mosaic, of S. Peter raising Tabitha, by
Placido Costanzi. The Mosaics which adorn the small
cupolas, ten in number, are executed after the designs of
celebrated painters.

Under S. Peter’s is a subterranean Church, built by Con-
stantine, into which ladies are not usually allowed to descend
without permission from the Pope; this permission, however,
may easily be obtained.

At the entrance of the circular corridor of the subter-
ranean Church is the Cappella della Confessione, built in
the form of a Latin cross; and immediately under the high
altar of the new church. Clement V III, adorned this
chapel with precious marbles, and twenty-four bronze bassi-
rz'lz'evz', representing memorable events in the lives of S.
Peter and S. Paul, whose portraits, painted on silver, adorn
the altar which covers S. Peter’s ashes. Opposite to this
chapel is the Sarcophagus of Junius Bassus, Prefect of
Rome; who died in the year 359. Here, likewise, are
several other tombs; namely, that of Charlotte, Queen of
Jerusalem and Cyprus; that of the Stuarts; and those of
Adrian IV, Boniface VIII, Nicholas V, Urban VI, and
Pius II. Here, also, are a considerable number of Statues;
and among them one of S. Peter; together with bassi-
7‘I'lz'cvz', ancient hIosaics, and interesting Inscriptions. The
height of the subterranean church is between eleven and
twelve English feet; and the pavement the same as in the
days of Constantine.

The door under the monument of BIaria-Clementina
Sobieski leads to a staircase, consisting of H2 steps, by
which mules might mount nearly to the top of S. Peter’s—
so easy is the ascent—and on one of the landing-places the
Custode of the Cupola may usually be found. It is im-
possible to form a just idea of the size of this wonderful
church, without seeing the upper part; and equally im—

CRAP. vm. ROME. 815

possible to appreciate the architectural merit of the great
cupola without examining its construction. This stupendous
fabric is double; and by means of staircases, between the
exterior and interior walls, it is not difﬁcult to ascend into
the lanthorn; the ballon the top of which measures twenty-
four feet in circumference.

The old Sacrz’szfy of S. Peter’s (a. rotunda) is supposed
to have been a Temple of Apollo, which stood at the
side of Nero’s Circus: the new Sacristy was built after
the designs of Carlo blarchionni; and communicates with
the Basilica by means of two corridors: it is divided
into nearly equal parts; one serving for a Sacristy, the
other being appropriated to the Canons. In the Vestibule is
a statue of S. Andrew, together with columns and pilasters
of red oriental granite. This apartment leads to - three
galleries, adorned with ﬁne columns of African marble,
pilasters and busts. Opposite to the door of the great
Sacristy is a staircase, whose landing—place is adorned with
a statue of Pius VI. The great Sacristy is an octagon,
ﬁfty feet in diameter, adorned with antique columns and
pilasters, which support a cupola; and its chapel contains
four columns of bardiglio di Carrara. The Sacristy of the
Canons is furnished with presses of Brazil-wood; and con-
tains a picture, by Francesco Penni, of S. Anne, 8:0; ditto
by Giulio Romano, of the hiadonna, our Saviour, and
S. John! and two paintings by Cavallucci ! Another apart-
ment contains pictures of the ancient Florentine school,
two paintings, by Ghezzi, a dead Christ, attributed to Buo-
naroti, a picture, by hiuziani, and two paintings by Cava-
lucci.

Vaticano. Some writers suppose this Palace to have
been erected by Nero, and afterward bestowed, by Con-
stantine, upon the Roman Pontiﬁ's: while others are of
opinion that it was built by Constantine on the site of the
Gardens of Nero: it seems to have received angmentations

 

316 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

from almost every succeeding Sovereign; insomuch that
its piesent circumference is computed to be near seventy
thousand feet; and, according to Venuti, it Contains eleven
thousand ﬁve hundred apartments; Bonani, indeed, says
thirteen thousand ; comprehending the subterranean cham-
bers. T/zc Scala Regz'a, or great Staircase, at whose foot
stands the statue of Constantine, was constructed by
Bernini; and leads to tile Sala chz'a, built by Sangallo,
and containing F rescos, with Latin inscriptions explanatory
of the subjects. The ﬁrst painting over the staircase-door
represents Charlemagne signing the donation of the Church,
and is by Taddeo Zuccari; another represents the entry of
Gregory XI, into Rome accompanied by S. Catherine of
Siena, and is by Vasari; another, over the door leading to
the Cappella-Paolina, is divided into three parts: that to
the right 1ep1esent1no Gregory VII, withdrawing the cen-
su1es cast on Henly IV, 111 the fortress of Canossa ; that on
the left representing the city of Tunis reconquered under
Charles V: the third represents Victory and Glory. These
paintings are by Taddeo and Federico Zuccari.

T/zc Cappella-Sistz'na, adjoining to the Sula Regia, was
built by Sixtus IV, according to the designs of Baccio Pin-
tclli of Florence, and its ceiling painted by Buonaroti in
twenty months, so entirely without assistance that even the
colours he used were prepared by himself. The Prophets
and Sibyls, the ﬁgure of the Deity, and those of Adam and
Eve, are particularly admired!!! The last Judgment,
likewise by Buonaroti, occupies the whole wall behind the
altar; he was three years in doing it; and parts of this
immense fresco are wonderfully ﬁne *1 The other walls

* The following lines contain a fair comment on this picture.

“ Good Michael Angelo, I do not jest,
Thy pencil a great judgment hath exprest 3
But, in that judgment, thou alas, hast shown

A wry Izh’fr 7uu’gmczzl of thv own. "’

CHAPuVIII. ROME. 317

are adorned with Frescos, representing scripture-histories,
by Pietro Perugino, and his Florentine contemporaries.
The heads, by Perugino, are ﬁne.

Opposite to the Cappella—Sistina is the Cajlpella-Paolina,
erected by Paul III, after the designs of Sangallo. The
two columns of porphyry, on the sides of the altar, were
found in the Temple of Romulus; and, toward the end of
each, are two Infants in basso—rz'lz'evo. The statues in the
angles are by Prospero Bresciano. The paintings which
represent the Conversion of 8. Paul, and the Cruciﬁxion of
S. Peter, are by Buonaroti; and the fall of Simon hIagus,
friezes, and ornaments of the ceiling, are by Federico Zuc-
cari.

T/ze Sacrz'sfg, near the Cappella-Sistina, contains mag-
niﬁcent plate and jewels.

The Ceiling ofﬂze Sale Ducale is decorated with beautiful
arabesques, by Lorenzino da Bologna, and Raphaellino da
Reggie.

Not far hence is the Appartamento-Borgia, embellished
with some of the very ﬁnest pictures existing; and open to
the public every Sunday morning, from twelve o’clock till
four; and every Thursday morning from eleven o’clock
till four *. Here is a beautiful Ceiling by Giovanni d3.
Udine and Pierino del Vaga, representing the seven planets,
Sic. The other ceilings are painted by Pinturicchio, and
Andrea Mantegna.

The ﬁrst room contains, the Transﬁguration, by Ra-
phael ! ! ! !—the martyrdom of S. Erasmus, by Niccolo

* The entrance to the Sula-Borgia is by the door on the left,
near the entrance to the M useo-Chiaramonte : and persons who
wish to visit the former, on days when it is not open to the
public, may generally gain admittance by ringing the bell, and
giving two pauls to the Custode.

318 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARVIII.

f

Poussin ! ! l—the Deposition from the Cross by Baroccio—a
cartoon, representing the death of S. Stephen, by Giulio
. Romano ! l—the martyrdom of two Saints, by Valentino—

and S. Sebastiano and other Saints, with the l‘Jadonna and
our Saviour above them, by Titian ! l l!

The second room contains, our Saviour borne to the
sepulchre, by M. A. Caravaggio l l ! l—S. Gregorio, by An-
drea Sacchi ! l—Fortune, by Guido ll—S. Thomas thrusting
his ﬁngers into our Saviour’s side, by Guercino—S. Helena,
by Paolo Veronese—S. Romoaldo’s dream, by Andrea
Sacchi ! I ! l—the martyrdom of S. Peter, by Guido !! and
two small pictures by Andrea da Fiesole.

Tile t/zz'rd room contains, the lVIadonna, our Saviour and
four Fathers of the Church, by Pietro Perugino—the
Madonna, our Saviour, 81c. by Benvenuto Garofalo—the
coronation of the Bladonna, by Raphael—the l\/Iagdalene,
by Guercino ! l—the Madonna of Foligno, by Raphael ! l ! l—-
three Virtues in Chiaroscuro, by Raphael—and another small
painting, called, The mysteries of Raphael.

Theﬁmrth room contains, Saints Thomas and Girolamo,
by Guido—the Assumption, by Raphael and Giulio Ro—
mano (the lower part being by the latter, the upper part
by the former); and the last Sacrament of S. Girolamo, by
Domenichino ! l ! !

Theﬁﬁh room contains, the nativity of the lVIadonna, by
Albano—an octangular Picture, by Paolo Veronese—the
Madonna, our Saviour, Elizabeth and S. John, by Guer—
cino; and a picture of the Madonna and angels, by the
Florentine school.

The sixth room contains, an Annunciation, by Baroccio
—S. Margarita, by Parmaginino; and S. Micalina, by
Baroccio.

Pius VII, has added to this unique collection a beautiful
ancient Fresco, found in Titus’s Baths, and commonly

CRAP. VIII. ROME. ’ 319

called, The Aldobrandini marriage: it is supposed to re-
present the union of Thetis with Peleus ! l l ‘

T/ze Loggia, or open Gallery, immediately above the
Appartamento Borgia, loads to the Stanze dz' quaello; and
is embellished with Arabesques, interspersed with scripture-
histories, by that great artist and his scholars. Some of
the ﬁnest of these frescos are, God dividing the light from
the darkness, by Raphael; Joseph explaining his dreams,
by Giulio Romano; Joseph sold to the Ishmaelitcs ; Joseph
explaining the dreams of Pharaoh; and the baptism of our
Saviour; by Raphael. The greater part of the small bassi-
rz'lz'evz' in this gallery are antique, and supposed to have
been taken from the Colisaeum, the Baths of Caracalla, and
the Villa of Adrian.

T 116 Stanze (12' Rag/hello contain some of the very ﬁnest
frescos existing; but the injuries these apartments have re—
ceived from time, and still more from the smoke made in
them by German soldiers, when Rome was taken by assault,
A. D. 1528, has rendered the paintings with which they
are adorned less striking, at first sight, than many other
frescos: indeed, Cignani, a celebrated artist, admired them
so little, on a cursory view, that Carlo Maratta, provoked
by his want of penetration, requested him to copy one of
the heads in the ﬁre of the Borgo. Cignani began ; rubbed
out; began again; and again rubbed out; till, at length,
after several fruitless attempts, he threw' away his pcncil,
exclaiming; “ Raphael is inimitable!”

The stanze dz' quaello are four in number, namely; the
Sala dz' Costantino; the Sala d’Elz'odoro; the Sala della
» Scuola di Alene,- and the Sala dz' Z’Incendz'o. The apart-
ment leading to them is adorned with fine frescos, repre—
senting the Apostles; and small historical paintings under
them, by Raphael’s Scholars; and contains the Chapel of

I

 

320 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm.

Nicholas V, painted by Angelo di‘ Fiesole, the pupil of
Masaccio.

The Hall (3f Constantine was designed by Raphael, and
coloured, after his death, by his scholars. The ﬁrst picture,
on the right, represents Constantine addressing his troops
before the battle with lVIaxentius, and was coloured by
Giulio Romano. Raphael has represented the moment
when the cross appears in the air, supported by Angels,
who are supposed to be saying to Constantine; “ Conquer
by this.” The dwarf of Julius II, putting on a helmet,
forms an absurd episode in the picture. The next painting
represents the battle of Constantine, fought against the
tyrant Maxentius, near the Ponte BIolle, A. D. 312: it was
coloured by Giulio Romano, Pierino del Vaga, Rafaello del
Colle, and Polidoro da Caravaggio; and is, according to
some opinions, the first picture in the ﬁrst class of great
works. The most striking groups are; an old soldier
raising his dying son; two soldiers ﬁghting, in the same
part of the picture; and in the opposite part, lVIaxentius in
the Tiber, vainly struggling to extricate himself. The
third picture represents the baptism of Constantine, by
Pope Silvester; and was coloured by Francesco Penni.
Raphael has chosen, for the scene of action, the Baptistery,
built by Constantine, after he had embraced Christianity,
and supposed to represent that of S. Giovanni in Laterano.
The fourth picture, which was coloured by Rafaello del
Colle, represents the donation of the patrimony of the
church, by Constantine. The composition is admired; but
the ﬁgures of Constantine and the Pope are said to want
majesty. This picture is full of episodes; namely, soldiers
driving the spectators back between the columns; a beggar
imploring charity; and a father and son answering him; a
woman with her back only visible, who leans upon two

CHAP. vm. ROME. 321

other women, in order to see the ceremony; and a child
mounted on a dog. In the second 1'00»: is a picture, coloured
by Raphael, which represents Heliodorus (Treasurer of
Seleucus, King of Asia), who came to pillage the Temple
at Jerusalem, thrown down and vanquished by two Angels
and a warrior on horseback; whom God sent to the aid of
his High Priest Onias; a circumstance recorded in the
second Book of Maccabees. This picture is extremely
admired; especially the Angels, who are pursuing He-
liodorus with such rapidity that they seem to ﬂy. The
VVarrior on horseback is strikingly ﬁne: the Temple
appears swept of the people in a moment; while, in the
back-ground, Onias is discovered, at the altar, invoking
Heaven; The episode of Julius II, coming into the Temple
on men’s shoulders, appears to have been a foolish whim
of his; with which Raphael was unfortunately obliged to
comply, by way of representing that Julius, like Onias, de-
livered the Church from its oppressors. The Pope’s chair-
bearer, on the left, is a portrait of Giulio Romano. In
the same room is another picture, called, The miracle of
Bolsena: it was coloured by Raphael; and represents a
priest who doubted the real presence of our Saviour in the
Eucharist; till, being on the point of consecrating the
wafer, he saw blood drop from it. This picture is much
admired; and was extremely difﬁcult to compose; from
being painted round a window, which cuts it nearly in half.
Julius II, is again brought forward in an episode; and
supposed to be hearing mass: but as the Head of the
Church is not to question the real presence in the Eucharist,
he testiﬁes no surprise at the miracle; though the people,
in general, express great astonishment; in which the Swiss
guards coldly participate. The heads of the Cardinals,
the Pope, and the Priests saying mass, are ”deemed very
beautiful; as is the colouring of the picture. The third
Y

322 TRAVELS ON'THE CONTINENT. CHARVIII.

painting in this room, celebrated for its composition and
groups of ﬁgures, represents Attila, King of the Huns,
advancing against Rome, and discovering, in the air, S.
Peter and S. Paul descending to arrest his progress. Ra—
phael has chosen the moment when the apostles are not
discovered by the army in general, but by Attila alone.
Pope S. Leo appears on a mule, followed by Cardinals;
but Attila attends only to the Apostles. The ﬁgure which
represents S. Leo is a portrait of Leo X; and the Mace-
bearer, on the .white horse before the Pope, is a portrait of
Raphael’s master, Pietro Perugino. The two Sarmatian
horsemen, near Attila, are copied from Trajan’s column.
The fourth picture in this room was coloured by Raphael,
and represents S. Peter delivered from prison by an Angel:
it contains a double action, ﬁrst S. Peter, in prison, waked
by the Angel; and secondly S. Peter, going out of prison,
conducted by the Angel. The Apostle’s ﬁgure is not
admired; but that of the Angel is charming; and the
manner in which the lights are managed is inimitable. The
third room contains a picture, coloured by Raphael, which
represents the School of Athens; and is, in point of ex-
pression, a wonderful work; for every Philosopher, by
his posture and gestures, characterizes his doctrines and
opinions. The scene is laid in a. magniﬁcent building,
imitated from the original designs which Bramante and
Buonaroti made for the church of S. Pietro in Vaticano.
In the centre of the picture are Plato and Aristotle, the
masters of the school, standing on the top of a ﬂight of
steps, and apparently debating on some philosophical sub-
ject: near them is Socrates, counting with his ﬁngers, and
speaking to a ﬁne martial ﬁgure, who represents Alcibiades.
Next to Socrates, and distinguished by a venerable heard,
is Nicomacus Hierasenus; and below this group is [a young
man in white, with his hand upon his breast, said to be the

CHAP. vm. ROME. 823

portrait of Francesco, Duke of Urbino, nephew to Julius II.
Next to Francesco stands Terpander, the Greek musician,
with his eyes ﬁxed on Pythagoras, who is writing; and,
before whom, a youth holds a tablet, which contains the
harmonic consonances. Next to Nicomacus Hierasenus is
Alexander the Great; and near Aristotle stands a corpulent
bald—headed ﬁgure, said to be the portrait of Cardinal
Bembo. At the feet of Alcibiades, and clothed in the
oriental garb, is Averroes, an Arabian philosopher; and
immediately behind him, is the proﬁle of Aspasia. On a
line with Pythagoras, seated at a table, and apparently in
deep meditation, is Epictetus; and beyond him, sitting
alone, on the second step, is Diogenes, with a cup by his
side, and a scroll in his hand. Raphael has pictured the
great architect, Bramante, under the character of Archi-
medes; who is tracing an hexagonal ﬁgure. The youth
who stands behind Archimedes, in an attitude of admira-
tion, is said to represent Federigo-Gonzaga, ﬁrst Duke of
Mantua. The philosopher who wears a crown and holds
a globe in his hand, is Zoroaster ; at whose side stand two
persons, the younger of whom, with a black cap, is a por-
trait of Raphael, the elder, of Pietro Perugino. Talking
with Zoroaster, and also holding a globe, is a ﬁgure said to
represent Giovanni, of the House of Antistes. On the op-
posite side of the school, and next to the base of a column,
is Empedocles seated, and attending to Pythagoras. The
old head, which appears just above the book placed on the
base of the column, is Epicharmus; and the Child with
ﬁne hair, just above Aspasia, is Archytas. Connoisseurs
deem the composition of this picture admirable; the colour-
ing soft and good; and the ﬁgures elegant and well draped:
and as the episodes relate to the subject, they add materially
to the interest excited by this piece. In the same room is
a painting the upper part of which represents the three
Y 2

8924 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.VIII.

virtues which ought to accompany Justice; namely, Pru-
dence, Temperance, and Fortitude. The lower part re-
presents, on the left, Justinian giving the Digests to Tre-
bonian; and, on the right, Gregory IX, under the ﬁgure
of Julius II, presenting his Decretals to an advocate. Op-
posite to the school of Athens is a painting, called Theolog ,
which represents the dispute relative to the Holy Sacra-
ment; and was coloured by Raphael. The composition of
the lower part of this picture, and especially the group of
S. Augustine dictating to a youth, is extremely admired;
but the upper part, namely, the Blessed Trinity, the Ma-
donna, and S. John the Baptist, is said to be too much in
the Gothic style. The heads of S. Gregorio, S. Ambrogio,
S. Augustine, S. Domenico, S. Bonaventura, and S. Jerome,
are deemed particularly ﬁne. Raphael has represented the
four ﬁrst as Fathers of the Church, seated on each side of
an altar, upon which the Host is exposed. The place of
assembly represents the foundations of a church, with part
of the superstructure begun. The fourth picture in this
room was coloured by Raphael; and represents Parnassus.
Homer is pictured standing at the summit of the moun-
tain, as an Improvisatorc, whom Apollo accompanies on
the violin; Dante is placed at the right hand of Homer,
and Virgil at the left: the Muses surround Apollo; and
the lower regions of the mountain contain groups of cele-
brated Greek, Latin, and Italian poets. appho sits in the
fore-ground, holding a scroll with one hand, and a lyre
with the other; and apparently listening to Laura, who
stands with Petrarca behind a tree. On the opposite side
of thegmountain, and next to one of the lVIuses, whose back
is toward the spectator, stands Tibullus; and next to him
Boccaecio: lower down, with a medallion round his neck,
is Ovid; and immediately behind him, Sannazaro; while
lower still, stands Horace, in an attitude of admiration,

CHAP. vm. ROME. "325

listening to Pindar, who, like Sappho, is seated. Raphael
has placed himself in the group with Homer and Virgil.
In t/zefom'tlz room is a painting which represents the victory
gained by Leo 1V, over the Saracens at Ostia: it is ﬁnely
executed. In this room, likewise, is one of Raphael’s most
celebrated works, ﬁnished by himself, and representing the
Fire in Borgo S. Spirito, near the Vatican; which happened
during the Pontiﬁcate of Leo IV. The tumult and high
wind, raised by the ﬁre, are wonderfully expressed; and
the young man carrying his father, the ﬁgure sliding down
a wall, and the woman carrying water on her head, are par-
ticularly admired. In the fore-ground is another woman,
quite frantic, raising her hands toward Leo IV, who ap-
pears in a tribune; below which is a ﬁne group of people
invoking his assistance. The third picture in this room
represents the coronation of Charlemagne, by Leo III.
The composition is said to be confused; but the young
man in armour in the foreground is much admired. The
fourth picture represents Leo III, swearing, before Charle-
magne, upon the Gospels, that he was not guilty of the
crimes laid to his charge by the party who wished to depose
him. The composition of this picture is much admired;
as are several of the heads.

The surbases of these rooms are ﬁnely painted in clzz'm'o—
scuro, by Polidoro da Caravaggio, and retouched by Carlo
Maratta.

In the same Loggia, or open Gallery, which contains
the entrance to the Appartamento-Bmgz'a, is the entrance to
the Mtseo—Chz'aramontz' *.

* I‘ never was more gratiﬁed than by seeing the statues of
the Vatican Museum by torch-light. We had four torches, each
containing four wicks: these torches were placed within a tin
reﬂector fastened to a long pole; and the light, thus arranged,

326 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARVIII.

This Museum is particularly well stored with ancient In-
scriptions; a great number of which were found in the Cata-
combs. T/zeﬁrst division likewise contains cinerary Urns, and
other sepulchral Monuments, together with an Ornament for
the top of a Well, or one of the Receptacles for the ashes of
victims. The second division contains, on the right side, a
Sarcophagus adorned with a recumbent female ﬁgure, sur-
rounded by little Bacchanalians, and three demi-ﬁgures in
alto-rclievo below—the Statue of a Philosopher between
two Muses—some good Busts—the Statue of a young Man
draped, between two Statues of Females, one of which
seems to be a Ceres—a Muse, seated—a little Diana—a
small Bacchus—a mutilated Statue, supposed to have re-
presented Minerva, and esteemed for its drapery—a Bust
of Sallustl the head being marble, the drapery oriental
alabaster—a colossal Head of Rome—a Bust of Julia Pia
draped with oriental alabaster—a small Statue of Philip
the younger—a sitting Statue of Demosthenes—a small
J upiter—Serapis seated—a Statue of Hercules—Augustus’s
Physician, in the character of Esculapius—Ceres—Hygeia
-—-a Priestess— Lucius Verus, with a small statue of Victory
in his hand—a little wild Boar in black marble—the god,
Mithras, stabbing the bull
berius seated !! it is well-preserved, and was found at Pi-

a demi-colossal Statue of Ti-

 

was most judiciously thrown on all the ﬁnest statues, so as to
display and magnify their beauties; while the imperfections of
each were left in shadow. Laocoon, thus viewed, appeared ﬁne
beyond conception ; because his figure only was exhibited, with-
out the rest of the group.

\Vhen we saw these statues by torch-light, we requested the
Custode to be in attendance at the Garden gate of the Museo-
Pio-Clementino ; and then drove round the back part of S.
Peter's, into the Vatican-yard, where there are steps leading
into the Museum.

CHAP. vm. ROME. 327

perno, the ancient Prz'vemum, between Rome and Naples *
——G roup of Silenus and a tiger between two FaunsT-Bust of
Trajan~Ditto of Augustus—and, between them, a ﬁne in-
cognito Head—a colossal Statue of Antinous! with Ceres
on one side, and Mercury on the other—Statue of a
Priestess of Isis ﬁnely draped—a demi-colossal Statue of
Fortune, found at Ostia l—a Statue of Minerva—ditto of
Silenus—a Bust of Pallas—one of the statues calledCarya-
tides !-—a Faun—a colossal recumbent ﬁgure of Hercules.
0n the Zgﬂ side of this division are; a Statue of Escu—
lapius, and another of Venus rising from the bath—a
Statue of Venus standing—a colossal Statue of Alexander
——a Statue of Caligula with a globe in his hand—colossal
Busts of Claudius and Trajan—a colossal Bust of Cybele,
or Isis, veiled, with a triple necklace l—a Discobolus be-
tween two of the Fates—a Statue of Commodus between a
female ﬁgure and an Apollo——a Statue of an Amazon l—ditto
of Diana-Lucifera—a beautifully draped statue of a Female
between Venus and Bacchus—a Faun—a Mercury !—a
Statue of Marcus Aurelius standing on a fine Sarcophagus
-—Diana——a Faun—a Statue of Apollo between a Faun
and a small Statue of Paris—a Sarcophagus adorned with
a recumbent ﬁgure of a VVoman surrounded byoGenii, who
are playing with tortoises and other animals.

At the end of this gallery, and leading to the Museo-

* The fourteen cities of Asia that were thrown down by the
earthquake which happened at our Saviour's cruciﬁxion, and
which the Emperor assisted the inhabitants to rebuild, erected a.
statue to him in consequence: and there were two medals of
Tiberius, stamped on the same occasion, in both of which he is
represented sitting, with a patera in one hand and a Spear in the
other; in short, precisely in the posture of this statue found at
Piperno.

 

328 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm.

Pio—Clementino, is a Staircase adorned with two columns of
granite and some'arabesques, by Daniello da Volterra.

Museo—Pz'o—Clementz'no. Square Vestibule. This apart-
ment contains arabesques, by Daniello da Volterra—the
celebrated Belvedere-Torso, imagined to be the remains
of a group of Hercules and Hebe, or of a Statue of Her-
cules in repose, eXecuted by Apollonius, the son of Nestor
of Athens ! l ! lie—The Sarcophagus of Lucius Cornelius
Scipio Barbatus, with his bust, both in peperino—several
Inscriptions relative to the Scipio family (all found in their
tomb)—and, opposite to the sarcophagus, a recumbent
Statue.

The second Apartment contains; a Vase of Greek marble! !
and four Fragments of Statues; that of a Female seated,
being much admired on account of the drapery.

In ﬂze Balcony is an ancient Dial.

The Mini Apartment contains; a Statue of Meleager ! l—
and, .ﬁxed into‘the wall on the right, a Basso-rilz'cvo repre-
senting the Apotheosis of Homer; and, on the left, two
Bassi-rilievi, the one representing a Sea-port, the other an
ancient Roman Galley with soldiers ﬁghting.

Portico (ft/20 Court. T o the right of the entrance door
stands a Column of granite, and another of white marble
adorned with foliage—an ancient Bath, of black basalt,
found in Caracalla’s Baths—a Bassoq'z'lz‘evo ﬁxed in the .
wall, representing Fauns and Griﬂbns, under which stands
a ﬁne Sarcophagus adorned with lions’ heads, fauns, and
Bacchantes, and found under the new Sacristy of S. Peter’s
—here, likewise, is the Sarcophagus of Sixtus Varius Mar-
cellus.

' This Torso is said to have been found in the Campo (Ii
Fiori ; and, if so, it probably was one of the ornaments of
l’oxnpey‘s Theatre.

Gimp. VIII. ROME. 929

First Cabinet. Perseus, by Canova—Wrestlers, by ditto
——and, in the niche son the sides of the arch, Statues of
Mercury and Pallas.

Continuation of the Portico. On the right, a Sarco-
phagus representing Bacchus and Ariadne in the island of
Naxos—another representing Prisoners imploring clemency
from their conqueror—in the large niche a Statue of Sal-
lustia Barbia Orbiana, wife of Alexander Severus, in the
character of Venus accompanied by Cupid—a Sarcophagus
representing Achilles slaying the Queen of the Amazons;
and, opposite to these, two beautiful Half Columns of rare
marble.

Second Cabinet. In the centre is the celebrated statue of
Meleager, once called the Belvedere Antinous ll! It Was

.found on a spot, named Adrianello, near the church of S.
Martino in Monte; with one of the arms and the left hand
wanting—On the right, ﬁxed in the wall, is a Basso-rz‘lz'c'vo
of Achilles killing the Queen of the Amazons—opposite to
this, another Basswrz'lz'evo, representing Isiaic Ceremonies
—and in the niches under the arch, Priapus and a young
Hercules.

Continuation of tin: Portico. On the right is a Sarco-
phagus representing the Seasons—another, representing
Nereides with the armour of Achilles—opposite to these, a
magniﬁcent Bath of red granite—and, ﬁxed in the wall, a
Basso-rilz'evo supposed, according to some opinions, to re-
present one of the gates of the Temple of Janus, and,
according to others, the gate of Eternity. On each side of
the entrance to the Hall of Animals ’is a ﬁne Column of
verde antique, and the Statue of a Shepherd’s Dog !—
Further on are a Sarcophagus, representing the battle of
the Athenians with the Amazons—another, representing
Genii and Bacchanalian ﬁgures—and, opposite to this, a
magniﬁcent Bath of red granite.

 

330 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm.

Third Cabinet. Here is the inimitable group of Laoeoon,
son of Priam and Hecuba, and high-priest of Apollo-Thym-
brazus. Laocoon endeavoured to prevent the reception of
the wooden horse into Troy; in consequence of which he,
and his two sons, are supposed to have been killed by ser-
pents ! ! l ! This is the group mentioned by Pliny, as having
been placed in the palace of Titus; and as being the joint
work of Agesander, Polidorus and Athenodorus of Rhodes:
it was found, during the Pontiﬁcate of Leo X, near the
Sette Salle. The statue of Laocoon is universally deemed a
c/uf-d’wum'e of antiquity; and exhibits the picture of human
nature struggling with grief, and trying to oppose the
stroke of fate, with all the force of intellect. The left side
of this wonderful statue, where the serpent’s teeth have
penetrated, is that part of the body which seems to suffer
most, from its proximity to the heart; and is considered as
the ﬁnest production of the Grecian chisel now in existence.
The right arm was wanting; and Buonaroti attempted to
restore it in marble; but not pleasing himself sufﬁciently to
continue the work, it was afterward done in plaster by Ber—
nini. The sons are said to be too much formed for children
of nine or ten years of age. Winekelmann supposes this
group to have been executed in the time of Alexander; and
Pliny tells us, that Athenodorus was the scholar of Poly-
cletus, who ﬂourished about the eighty-seventh Olympiad.
This Cabinet also contains a Basso—rilievo, ﬁxed in the wall,
and representing the triumph of Bacchus after his Victory
over the Indians; and another, representing Bacchanalians.
In the niches, on the sides of the arch, are Statues of P0-
lymnia, and a Nymph, found near the Temple of Peace.

Continuation of tile Portico. On the right side, ﬁxed
into the wall, is a Basso-rilievo of Hercules and Bacchus
with their respective attributes—and, below this, a Sarco—
iphagus representing Genii carrying arms. Herc, likewise,

CHAP. vm. ROME. 33]

is a Bath of gigantic magnitude. Fixed in the wall is
another ﬁne Basso—rilz'evo of Augustus sacriﬁcing. In the
large niche is a Statue of Hygeia; and ﬁxed in the wall a
Basso-rilz'evo representing Rome with a victorious Eni-
peror—here, also, is another gigantic Bath of granite;
and a Sarcophagus adorned with Tritons and Nercides.

Fom't/z Cabinet. This room contains the Belvedere
Apollo ! ! H a statue equally celebrated with the group of
Laocoon, and found at Antium, toward the close of the
ﬁfteenth century. The foot on which the ﬁgure stands was
broken; and the pieces are not well put together: the two
hands are ﬁnely restored; especially the left. This statue is
supposed to have been brought from Greece by Nero: it
is rather taller than the common height of man; appears
to tread on air; and exhibits all the masculine beauty,
grace and dignity, with which we may suppose Adam
to have been adorned before the fall. Two Bassi-rz'lz'evz'
' are ﬁxed in the walls; that, on the right, representing a
Chase; that on the left Pasipha'é with the bull; and in the
niches, under the arch, are Statues of Pallas, and Venus
triumphant.

Continuation oftlze Portico. Here are two Sarcophagi;
in the centre of the ﬁrst is Ganymede; and in the centre of
the other Bacchus between a Faun and a Bacchante: op—
posite to these is a magniﬁcent Bath of green basalt, found
in Caracalla’s Baths—close to the door of entrance is a
beautiful Column of porphyry ; and opposite to the door a
Column of white marble, adorned with sculpture in the
arabesque style.

Hall of Animals. This apartment is divided by a ves-
tibule adorned with columns and pilasters ‘of granite. The
pavement near the entrance exhibits an ancient Mosaic of a
\Volf; and, further on, are other ancient Mosaics; some
of which were found at l’alestrina. Here is an unique,

 

 

332 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11}.

numerous, and most valuable collection of animals, sculp-
tured in every kind of precious marble, and several of them
beautifully executed.

Right side qf‘tke Hall. Some Of the most striking things
here are; a Dog on the back of a Stag—three Greyhounds
—tW0 Staghounds—Mithras stabbing the bull l—an lbis—~
a Basso-rz'lz'evo representing the triumph of Bacchus—a
Table of verde antique—Europa—a small Bull—the Lion
killed by Hercules—Diomede destroyed by Hercules—a
Centaur and a Love—a Stag in ﬂowered alabaster—and a
Lobster.

Gallery of Statues. The most remarkable pieces of
sculpture on the right side of this apartment are; a Statue
of Clodius Albinus—a half—length Figure of Love, supposed
to have been executed by a Grecian artist l—a Statue of
Paris with the apple of discord—Hercules—Minerva with
the olive branch in her hand—a Statue, apparently Etruscan,
of a Woman seated—Caligula—a Satyr and a Nymph—
an Amazon l—a Faun just waking from sleep l—Juno l—a
seated Figure bearing the name of Posidipos ! l—a small
Isis—Heads of Augustus, Julius Caesar, Balbinus, Marcus
Aurelius, Titus, Ajax, Caracalla, Septimius Severus, Anto-
ninus Pius, Claudius Drusus, Nero, Socrates, and Jupiter
Serapis; the last in black basalt. At the bottom of the
apartment is a Statue of Jove seated, with the lightning in
his hand I! (the Basso-relievo on the pedestal represents
Silenus and a Faun l)——a Statue of Livia, and a Bust of
Antinous. The other side of the apartment contains a
colossal Bust of Minerva—a Group representing Cato and
Portia—four Busts of Plato—a Bust of Socrates—a sitting
Statue bearing the name of lVIenander ! l—Nero in the cha-
racter of Apollo—a Statue of Septimius Severus—~a sitting
Statue of Dido—Neptune with his trident-Narcissus !—
Bacclius as a River God —— the Emperor Macrinw

 

CHAP. vm. ROME. 333

fEsculapius and Hygeia—Venus—Seneca in a consular
habit—a Female sleeping—a Danaide with a vase in her
hand !-—a Faun leaning against a tree—and a Statue of
Diana !!

Cabinet (f mosaic Masks. The ceiling of this elegant
mom was painted by Domenico di Angelis; and represents
the marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne—Paris giving the
' apple to Venus—Diana and Endymion—Venus and Adonis
—and Paris and Minerva. Here are eight Columns and
eight Pilasters of oriental alabaster—a beautiful ancient
F rieze—a Basso-rilz'evo representing the apotheosis of
Adrian—~with others allusive to the labours of Hercules.
Here, also, are Seats of porphyry—a Basin and a Chair of
rosso antico—-fa beautiful antique mosaic, Pavement, found
in Adrian’s villa—a Statue of a Bacchante ! l——Ditto of
Venus coming out of the bath ! l—Ditto of one of Diana’s
Nymphs with a torch ! l—a Faun in rosso antico, found in
Adrian’s Villa ! ! l—Paris with the apple —Minerva—Gany-
mede with the eagle l—and Adonis, or Antinous l !!

Continuation of the Gallery of Statues. A Priestess—
a female Figure, marked 7 27 ! ! !—a recumbent demi—co-
lossal Statue called Cleopatra; but supposed to represent
Ariadne! ! !-‘—Mercury, and Lucius Verus!

Continuation oft/w Hall of Animals. Right side, going
out of the Gallery—an equestrian Statue of Commodus—
Hercules—an Eagle—Goats with a Bacchus—two Tigers
—two Lions, one of which holds in his claws the head of a
bull—two Bassi—rz'lz'evi ﬁxed in the wall, the one represents
a cow suckling a calf, the other two wild Boars driven bya
Love—a Sphinx of ﬂowered alabaster—the head of an Ass
—three small Horses—two Cows—a Sow with her Pigs—
a wild Boar—Hercules killing Gerion—a Cow, in grey
marble—a Statue of Meleager—a Horse—Hercules and
Cerberus—a Stork with a serpent in its mouth—several

 

334 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. crunvm.

Heads of horses, oxen, and mules—a group of a marine
Monster and a Nymph—a Vase—two Goats—the Head of
a Cow—a Lion devouring a Horse—and a Table of verde
antique.

Hall qftlze MlSé’S. This apartment is adorned with six-
teen Columns of Carrara marble, whose Capitals were taken
from Adrian’s Villa. On the right is a Statue of Silcnus,
and another of Bacchus in female attire. Here likewise
are, Statues of the Muses, found at Tivoli in the Villa of
Cassius—Apollo in his theatrical habit—a Hermes of
Sophocles—ditto of Epicurus—Hippocrates—Eschines—
Demosthenes~Antisthenes—Aspasia l—and Pericles l—a
Statue of Sappl-io ! l—a Hermes of Bias—a Statue of Ly-
curgus, or Lysias—a Hermes of Periander—a Bust of Al—
cibiades—a Hermes of Socrates—ditto of Zenon—ditto of
Euripides—and ditto of Aratus. The Pavement exhibits a
Mosaic (found at Lorium) representing comic and tragic
Actors—and another Mosaic, in the arabesque style, found
near S. Maria Maggiore. The ceiling was painted by the
Cav. Conca, and represents Apollo and Marsyas the seven
sages of Greece—Homer singing to Minerva——Apollo and
some of the Muses, with Homer, Virgil, Ariosto, and Tasso,

 

in the angles. Here likewise are Bassi—rz'lz'evi representing
Pluto and Proserpine—the combat of the Lapithae with the
Centaurs, and the birth of Bacchus.

The entrance to the large circular hall contains on the
arch of the door to the right, a medallion of Juno—in the
niche a Statue of Pallas—and, below, a medallion with a
festoon and a Medusa—in the opposite niche a Statue of
lVlnemosyne—and, below, a Basso-rilz'evo of three poets.

Circular Hall. The Pavement of this apartment is an
ancient Mosaic (found at Otricoli) representing l\ledusa’s
head and the battle of the Lapithae with the Ccntaurs, en—
circled by another aucient Mosaic, representing marine

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 3-35

Monsters, and found in the environs of Scrofano—a mag.
niﬁcent porphyry Basin, forty-one feet in circumference,
adorns the centre of this apartment, which is seventy feet in
diameter, and contains a colossal Bust of Jupiter—ditto of
Faustina the elder l—ditto of Adrian (formerly in his Mau-
soleum)—ditto of Antinous—a Hermes representing the
Ocean—a Bust of Jupiter Serapis—ditto of the Emperor
Claudius—ditto of Plotina~ditto of Julia Pia—ditto of
Pertinax ! !———two Hermes (one on each side of the entrance
door) found in Adrian’s Villa, and representing Bac-
chantes! colossal Statues of Commodus in the character of
Hercules—Augustus in a sacriﬁcial habit—Ceres, or Mel-
pomene ! ! l—Antoninus Pius—Nerva !—Juno, as queen of
heaven ill—the same heathen divinity as the goddess of
health, with the dart, shield, Ste; and a Group representing
Bacchus, a tiger, and a Satyr. The busts are placed on
columns of porphyry, and other rare marbles.

Vestibule in tlzefornt qfa Greek cross. The door of this
apartment is magniﬁcently ornamented with two Egyptian
Idols of red granite, under the form of Caryatides, taken
from Adrian’s villa, and bearing the likeness of Antinous—-—-
two vases of red granite, and an antique Basso-rilz'evo, re-
presenting a combat between gladiators and wild beasts.
The Pavement is adorned with an ancient Mosaic, repre-
senting arabesques, and a head of Minerva found at Tus-
culum; and the apartment also contains a half-draped
Statue of Augustus; and, ﬁxed into the wall, a Basso-rilz'evo
of a Griffon—an Egyptian Idol of nero antico, found at
Tivoli, and placed upon a bracket ornamented with two
swans—a Statue on a pedestal of Lucius Verus when
young, found at Otricoli—and near the window a large
sepulchral Monument of porphyry, in which the remains of
S. Costanza were deposited; and which was taken from the
church that bears her name—a Statue of a Muse seated,

 

336 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VII}.

and holding a scroll; supposed to have once adorned the
theatre at Otricoli—another Egyptian Idol of nero antico
found at Tivoli, and placed on a bracket—below this, a
Sphinx, in red granite l—a' Statue of Venus on a pedestal
-—-and, ﬁxed into the wall above, a Basso-rilz'evo representing
three of the Muses. Before the stairs two large Sphinxes
of granite—and, ﬁxed into the wall near the arch supported
by columns of granite, a Basso-rilievo representing children
and lions’ heads !—on the other side a Basso-rilz'evo with
Bacchanalian ﬁgures—and, below this, another Sphinx—in
the niche a Statue of Erato—and, ﬁxed to the wall, another
Basso-rz'lievo representing three of the Muses—another
Egyptian Idol of nero antico, found at Tivoli—and, below
it, a Sphinx a Statue, placed on a pedestal, of a Muse
seated; and near this, another Statue of a female veiled—
above, ﬁxed in the wall, a Figure of Victory, which once
adorned the Baths of S. Helena—and, opposite to this,
another Figure of Victory—here, likewise, is the sepulchral

 

Monument of S. Helena, found at Tor Pignattara—it con-
tained her remains, and is of porphyry—near it is a Statue
undraped, and another in the toga, both found at Otricoli—
on a bracket an Egyptian Idol, found at Tivoli—and, on a
pedestal, a Statue found at Otricoli of a youth veiled, hold-
ing a patera. The bottom of the staircase is adorned with
a recumbent Statue of the Tigris in white marble; and
another of the Nile, in grey marble. The staircase, which
is very magniﬁcent, leads to a rotunda called,

The Apartment of the Car. In the centre of this ro-
tunda is an ancient and elegantly sculptured Car of marble,
with two horses; the one ancient, the other modern. On
the right of the entrance door is a Statue of Perseus; and,
in the niche, a Statue with a long beard, called Sarda-
napalus ; but more probably Bacchus. The apartment
likewise contains a Statue which decidedly represents Bac-

e HAP; VIII. ROME. ' 387

chus ! —a Warrior (with one foot on his helmet) called
Alcibiades—a Statue veiled, and in the act of sacriﬁcing—
ditto of Apollo with the lyre—a Discobolus—a Statue
called Ajax, or Phocion ! l—another Discobolus, imitated
from that of hlyron—an Auriga of the Circus—a Grecian
Philosopher, holding a scroll—an Apollo with the Lizard
—and four small, but beautiful Sarcophagi.

Gallery of Candelabra, ($0. The vestibule of this im-
mense Gallery, which is divided into six parts, contains a
considerable number of Egyptian Antiquities.

First Division. A Faun in green basalt l—Diana of
Ephesus~small Statues of Children—two sepulchral Urns
standing on Pedestals beautifully adorned with Bassi-ri-
Zievi. '

Second Division. Two Tripods—two ﬁne Vases—small
Statues of Children—Diana-Lucifera—Ganymede and the
Eagle—and a Statue of a Female, immediately opposite !

Third Division. A Sarcophagus adorned with Bassi-
rilievi representing Diana killing the children of Niobe——a
singular Candelabrum, representing lilies l—the Pescatore!
~—Diana and a greyhound—small Statues of Children.

Fourth Division. A female Figure draped—a Youth
draped—a Priestess with the patera~ Ceres.

.Fgﬁ‘h Division. A Sarcophagus with a Gladiator on the
top—another with a female Figure, resembling Sappho, on

the top.

Sixth Division. Two of the largest and most beautiful
Candelabra in Rome ! ! ——other Candelabra! —=cinerary
Urns, 8m. *

Seventh Division. Cinerary and other Urns of rare
marble—four Candelabra !

* The Candelabra of Mars, Mercury, Minerva, and Isis, are
deemed the most valuable in the Vatican Museum; both with
respect to their form, and the elegance of their ornaments.

z

 

338 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. crunvm.

Eighth Division. Two Candelabra, one being par-
ticularly beautiful l—cinerary and other Urns of rare marble
—-two handsome basins.

Geographical Gallmy. This apartment is adorned with
ancient Maps of the Papal territories, Hermae of distin-
guished Characters; and, on the ceiling, beautiful Frescos
by the scholars of Raphael.

The Stanze di Rafaello, and Vatican Museum, are open
to the Public every Sunday morning, from twelve o’clock
till four; and every Thursday morning, from eleven o’clock
till four: and the extent of this Museum, including the
Stanze di Rafaello, is said to be one mile and a half.

Lz'brerz'a Vaticano. The usual entrance to this mag-
niﬁcent apartment is from the Museo-Chiaramonti: the
rooms are open to the public on the same days and at the
same hours with the rest of the Vatican Museum; but the
books Can only be seen from nine till twelve in the fore-
noon *.

The Vatican Library was commenced, during the ﬁfth
century, by Pope S. Hilarius; and the princely apartment
which now contains forty thousand manuscripts, and a
choice collection of books printed in the ﬁfteenth century,
was erected by Sixtus V, after the designs of Domenico
Foutana.

The Vestibule contains some curious Chinese works, re—
lative to anatomy, geography, and astronomy; together
with two curious Columns, bearing ancient inscriptions.
lee anti-room contains portraits of the librarians; and a
ceiling adorned with ﬁgures by Marco di Firenze, and
landscapes by Paul Brill. This room is occupied by in-
terpreters of various languages.

* The Custode who shows the books, and attends Strangers
round the apartment, expects from two to five pauls, according
to the size of the party.

CHAP. vm. ROME. 339

The great Hall qftlze Library is one hundred and ninety-
eight feet long, by forty-nine broad: its ceiling was painted
by Zriccari. Round this hall are presses that in'close the
manuscripts; any of which, on being asked for, are im-
mediately shown. Here are—a ﬁne ﬂuted Column of
transparent alabaster—a Sarcophagus of white marble,
with a winding-sheet of Asbestos nine Roman palms in
length and seven broad—Grecian Vases—cinerary Urns—
and two superb Tables of granite, supported by bronze
ﬁgures ﬁnely executed. Among the rare Manuscripts are
several Hebrew, Syriac, Arabic, and Armenian Bibles—a
Greek Bible of the sixth century in capital letters, written
according to the Version of the Septuagint; and from
which all the subsequent copies have been taken—a very
large Hebrew Bible, presented to the library by the Dukes
of Urbino, and for which the Venetian Jews offered its
weight in gold — a Greek manuscript, containing the Acts
of the Apostles in letters of gold: (this was given to In-
nocent VIII, by Charlotte, Queen of Cyprus)———a Missal,
written in 1118 —another adorned with Miniatures by
Giulio Clovio, the scholar of Giulio Romano, and the ﬁnest
miniature painter of his time—a large Breviary, adorned
with ﬁne hliniatures, and presented to the library by Mat-
thias Corvinus, King of Hungary—the Annals of Baronius,
written with his own hand in twelve volumes—several
volumes of ecclesiastical History, by the learned Onofrio
Panvinio, Augustine—a Martyrology, curious on account of
its antiquity, and its Miniatures—manuscripts relative to
S. Carlo Borromeo—a manuscript Pliny, with beautiful
lVIiniatures of animals—a Virgil of the ﬁfth century, written
in capital letters, and adorned with miniatures representing
the Trojans and Latians in the dress of their own times *—

f“ These paintings are not good; but they have been excel-
z 2

840 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARVIII.

a Terence equally ancient—another terence, of the ninth
century, illuminated with ancient masks—a beautiful Tasso
—a Dante adorned with exquisite Paintings, begun by the
Florentine school, and ﬁnished by Giulio 'Clovio —a Trea-
tise on the seven Sacraments, composed by Henry VIII, of
England—original Letters between that Prince and Anna
Bullen—several Papers written by Luther—the Lives of
Federico di Monte Feltre, and Francesco Maria della
Povera, Dukes of Urbino, adorned with exquisite Minia-
tures by Giulio Clovio—several Manuscripts written on
Egyptian papyrus—and the Gospels of S. Luke and S.
John, written in the tenth century, and bound in ivory‘*.
From the upper part of this Hall branch two Galleries,
forming, altogether, a length of nearly half a mile.

The Galleiy on the right is supported by ﬁne Columns of
porphyry; two of which, with ﬁgures on the top, were
taken from the Arch of Constantine. Here are modern
Paintings—Presses ﬁlled with books—Grecian Vases—and,
at the extremity of the Gallery,- a Cabinet containing
beautiful Cammci of Jupiter, fEsculapius, Sic—Etruscan
Antiquities (among which is the recumbent ﬁgure of a
Child !)——the ﬁnest Bust extant of Augustus ! l—a Bust of
Nero—ditto of Septimius Severus—an ancient silver Salver
—Human Hair found in a sarcophagus—ancient Seals,
Rings, 8:0.

The commencement of the Gallmy on the left, contains
Arabesques on the ceiling—Grecian Vases—Presses ﬁlled
with books—a Statue of S. Hippolito, found in the Ce-

lently engraved by Santi Bartoli; and may be purchased at the
Calcograﬁa Camerale.

* It seems extraordinary that there are no ancient Rituals
here, to show the alterations supposed to have taken place in
Church-ceremonies since the time of the primitive Christians.

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 341

metery of S. Lorenzo—and a statue of Aristides of Smyrna. -
The second division contains a Ceiling, by Pozzi, which re-
presents the Church and Religion—ancient Lamps-In-
struments of torture—and other Antiques, relative to the
primitive Christians —— a few pictures of the Grecian school
—and an original Portrait of Charlemagne, in stucco. At
the end of this Gallery is a Cabinet superbly ﬁtted up with
porphyry and other precious marbles; hung round with
specimens of the Egyptian Papyrus; and containing, on
the Ceiling, the c/zefld’ceuvre of Mengs; who has adorned
the entrance door with a ﬁgure of Janus, indicative of the
present and the past. Above the doors are Moses and
S. Peter, beautifully painted, though less worthy of admira-
tion than the four Genii, and the four Children, all of
which are exquisitely ﬁne!!! In the centre of this ceiling
History is represented recording, on the wings of Time,
the works of Clement XIV; while a Genius presents scrolls
of papyrus, by means of which they may be transmitted to
Posterity; and Fame appears in the air, ready to publish
them. This Cabinet also contains two Candelabra, given
by Napoleon to the present Pope. Returning from the
cabinet of Mengs, you see, on the left, two rooms,- tlzeﬁrst
ofﬂine/z contains Paintings, on the Ceiling, by Guido; to-
gether with some ﬁne Grecian Vases: the second contains
Grecian Vases; together with ancient Inscriptions ﬁxed,
in the wall.

Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini in Piazza Barberim'. This
Piazza is supposed to make part of the ancient Circus of
Flora; where, according to Suetonius, elephants danced on
ropes. The Chiesa dei Cappuccini is rich in paintings.
The ﬁrst picture on the right represents the Arch-Angel
Michael; and is deemed Guido’s chefd’cemve!!!/ The
third picture is by Domenichino, and represents S. F ran-
cesco—the ﬁfth is by Andrea Sacchi, and represents S.

342 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARVIII.

Antonio raising the dead. In a Chapel near the high altar
is another picture, by the same master, representing S.
Bonaventura. The Chapel on the left, near the high altar,
eontains a Nativity by Lanfranco. S. Paul receiving his
sight, in the Chapel opposite to that which contains the
Arch-Angel, is by Pietro da Cortona !! and over the door
of the church is a cartoon, by Giotto, from which the
mosaic, called The Navicella, and placed in the portico of
S. Peter’s, was taken !

PalazzO-Barbm‘ini. A ﬁne Basso-rilz'evo at the foot of
the stairs—a ﬁne Alto-rilz'evo of a Lion on the ﬁrst landing
place.

First ﬂoor. The ceiling of the Hall of entrance was
painted by Pietro da Cortona, and is deemed his master-
piece!!! The subjects are allusive to Urban VIII. The
centre exhibits the Barberini arms carried to Heaven by
the Virtues, in presence of Providence, who is surrounded
by Time, Eternity, and the Fates. On one side is Minerva
vanquishing the Titans; on another are Religion and
Faith, with Voluptuousness beneath, on the left, and Si-
lenus on the right. On the third side are ﬁgures of Justice
and Abundance in the air; and, below them, Charity on
the right, and Hercules killing the Harpies on the left.
On the fourth side is a ﬁgure which represents the Church,
accompanied by Prudence, sending Peace to shut the
temple of Janus, chasing the Eumenides, and ordering
Vulcan to forge arms for the defence of Rome. This apart-
ment is likewise adorned with a ﬁne cartoon, by Pietro da
Cortona, and a picture of Attila prevented from entering
Rome by S. Peter and S. Paul.

Tile Apartments on the second ﬂoor contain, a Sibyl, by
Guercinol—a head, by Guidol—S. Andrea Corsini, by
ditto l—S. John, by Guercino—S. hIark, by Guercino—S.
Luke, by ditto—S. Girolamo, by Spagnoletto~Raphael’s

CHAP. vm. ROME. 843

Mistress, by himsclﬁ—the death of Germanicus, by Niccolo
Poussin! !———some beautiful small pictures, by eminent masters
—two portraits, by T itian—S. Peter healing the maimed,
by N. Poussin—and two of the Apostles by Andrea Sacchi.

Chiesa dz" S. Maria dclla Vittoria. The front of this
ediﬁce was built after the designs of Giovanni Battista
Soria; and the interior part after those of Carlo Maderno:
it stands on the site of the gardens of Sallust; and is deemed,
in point of architecture, one of the most beautiful churches
at Rome. The inside is adorned with pilasters of Sicilian
jasper, a well painted ceiling, a handsome marble pavement,
good altar-pieces, and ﬁne sculpture. The paintings in the
second Chapel, on the right, are by Domenichino! The
last Chapel, in the cross-aisle, contains a group, in marble,
of Joseph and an Angel, by Domenico Guido: the opposite
Chapel, on the left, contains a group of S. Teresa and an
Angel, by Bernini. Here, likewise, are two sarcophagi
adorned with ﬁne Busts, by Bernini; and an Alto—rilz'evo, in
bronze, representing the last supper, by the same artist.
The next Chapel is embellished with ﬁne marbles; and con—
tains an altar-piece, by Guercino; with a picture, on each
side, by Guido.

Fontamz dz' T ermine. This Fountain, which is opposite to
the church of S. Maria della Vittoria, was erected by F on-
tana, at the command of Sixtus V. In the centre of the
ediﬁce is a Statue of Moses; and on each side aBasso-rz'lz'cvo ,-
the one representing Aaron conducting the Israelites to
quench their thirst; the other Gideon encouraging them to
pass the river Jordan, and directing his soldiers to lead the
way. This fountain is likewise ornamented with four Lions,
two of which are white porphyry, and two basalt; the latter
being Egyptian sculpture, and highly estimated.

C/zz'esa (12' S. Andrea a JVIszc—Camllo. This beautiful
little Church was built by Bernini, in the form of an ancient

 

34:4 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. v11].

temple; it is adorned with ﬁne marbles; and contains, in the,
ﬁrst Chapel on the right, a picture of S. Francesco Save-
rio, by Baciccio; by whom likewise are the paintings on
each side. The Cruciﬁxion of S. Andrew, over the high
altar, is by Bourguignone; and the next Chapel, dedicated
to S. Stanislas, is ornamented with a picture of that Saint,
by Carlo Maratta; and a Sarcophagus of lapis lazuli. In
the conventual ediﬁce adjoining to this church is a Chapel,
once the chamber of S. Stanislas, which contains his Statue,
by Le Gros. '

Palazzo—Pontgﬁcz'o. This princely ediﬁce is situated on
the Quirinal hill; and supposed to stand on the ruins of the
Baths of Constantine. It was begun by Paul III, continued
by Gregory XIII, and ﬁnished by succeeding Pontiﬁ‘s. The
Court-yard, or open Quadrangle of the palace, is three hun-
dred feet long, by one hundred and sixty-ﬁve wide; three
parts being surrounded with porticos. The great staircase,
on the right, leads to the public Chapel, which has been
recently ﬁtted up with great elegance by the present Pope.
Contiguous to this chapel is a magniﬁcent suite of apart-
ments splendidly furnished in the French style, and enriched
with a choice collection of pictures; among which are, in
Maj-Est room, Saul and David, by Guercino l —S. Agnes, by
Annibale Caracci—an Ecce Homo, by Domenichino—a
sketch of the Transﬁguration, by Raphael ! The martyr—
dom of the Jesuits, by Bassano—the l\'Iadonna and our
Saviour, by Guido—S. Catherine, by Annibale Caracci—
Ditto by the Cav. d’Arpino—S. John, by Giulio Romanow
the Madonna and our Saviour, by Rubens—the same sub-
ject, by Baroccio—-the hiadonna, our Saviour, S. John, &c.
by Palma Vecchio. The small Chapel, adjoining to this
room, is beautifullv painted, by Guido; the subject being
the life of the lVIadonna. The Annunciation, ov e1 the altal,
is paiticula1ly fine ! l T 11¢ wand 200m contains pictu1cs oi

CHAP. vm. ROME. 3435

Animals, by Petri, a living artist. The third room is adorned
with a ﬁne Ceiling. The fourth with a Frieze, by Thor-
waldsen, representing the triumph of Alexander, and a ﬁne
Ceiling. The ﬁﬂh room contains an elegant Bed, and a
ﬁne Frieze, representing the triumph of Trajan, by Finetti.
In the sixth room are copies of Raphael’s Arabesques, and a
ﬁne Frieze: in the seventh room a beautiful Chimney-piece,
and a Ceiling by Palagi. The ninth room contains a picture
of S. Peter, by Fra Bartolommeo ! l—S. Paul, by the same
great artist! l—S.'Girola1no, by Spagnoletto—S. Cecilia,
by Vanni—S. George, by Pordenone—our Saviour dis-
puting with the doctors, by hi. A. Caravaggioll—the
adoration of the Magi, by Guercino—the marriage of S. Ca—
tharine, by Battoni—S. Cecilia, S. Agnes, 8m. byCaracioli;
and S. Sebastiano, by Paolo Veronese.

These apartments cannot be seen without an order from
a Cardinal.

Palazzo—Rospz'glz'osi. This ediﬁce was erected on the
ruins of Constantine’s Baths. The suite of apartments
which are usually shown to the public contain a ﬁne collec-
tion of pictures; among which are the following. First
room; our Saviour on the cross, by Guido—the head of
Andrea del Sarto, by himself! Second r00m.Flow01-
pieces. T hud room. Four pictules, by Romanelli; namely,
Europa and the bull !—Hercules and 1010— Samson and
Dalila—Tancred and Arminia Samson and Dalila, by
Annibale Caracci— several landscapes, by Paul Brill— S.
Girolamo, by Albert Durer! Fourth room. Rinaldo and
Armida, by Albano ! ! The death of Julian the Apostate,
by Luca Giordano! l—the conversion of S. Paul, by ditto !!
S. Sebastiano, by Valentino. F fth room. Samson pullino-
down the Temple, by Annibale Caracci. ' ! !—the triumph of
David, by Domenichino ' ! !——the twelve Apostles, by Ru-
bens ! !-—the ﬁve Senses, by Carlo Cigniani ! l ! Sophonisba,

 

346 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

after having swallowed poison, by Calabrese l—a Marriage,
by Giorgione — Andromeda, by Guido !—a Pietd, by An-
nibale Caracci—the head of Poussin, by himself—a Ceiling,
by Giovanni da S. Giovanni, representing the conﬂagration
of Troy ! and another, representing the Car of Night* !

The Garden of this Palace contains a Pavilion, the out—
side of which is adorned with four large Bassi—rz'lievi, found
in Trajan’s Forum; and three small ones, found in the Baths
of Constantine. On the Ceiling of the principal room of the
building is the celebrated Aurora of Guido; according to
many opinions the ﬁnest fresco at Rome! ! !! Over one of
the doors are two Boys, by the same artist: and here, also,
are Landscapes, by Paul Brill; and two Paintings, by
T empesta, both taken from Petrarca 3 the one represents
the triumph of Fame; and the other the triumph of Love.
This building likewise contains Paintings by Domenichino,
in his ﬁrst style; and a ﬁne head, in basalt, of Scipio
Africanus.

Vz'lla-Aldobrandim', now called Villa-Miollis.

T/ze ground-ﬂoor contains a statue of Venus; and another
Statue, in an opposite room. 07; tile stairs is a statue of a
Sea-Nymph, the drapery of which is beautiful. ‘

T 716 ﬁrst ﬂoor contains an immense number of pictures:
but the collection is not very good. Here are, S. Girolamo, by
Luca Giordano—Charity, by the Cav. Landi—our Saviour,
as a child, sleeping on the cross, by Sasso Ferrato l—Pope
Pamﬁli, by Velasquez and a sketch, by Tintoretto.

It is necessary to obtain an order, from the owner, for

 

admittance into this Villa.
Fontana dz' Tl‘cvz'. The water, which supplies this beau—
tiful Fountain, was brought to Rome by Agrippa, for the

* Several of these pictures have been recently removed from
the palace to the pavilion in the garden.

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 34"!

use of his Baths; and derives its name of Aqua Vz'rgz'ne,
from a young female Peasant, who discovered the source,
and showed it to some famishing soldiers. It is deemed the
best water at Rome. The decorations of this Fountain were
designed by Niccolo Salvi, at the command of Clement XII_
The Statues represent Ocean, Salubrity, and Abundance;
and the Bassi—rz'lz'em‘ over the two last, represent Agrippa
and the Peasant-Girl.

C/zz'esa (12' S. Maria del Popolo. This church, which stands
on the site of the sepulchral Monument belonging to the
Family of Domitian, contains, in the ﬁrst and third Chapels,
to the right, paintings by Pinturicchio: the intermediate
Chapel contains an oil-painting, on the wall, by Carlo
Blaratta. The paintings in the tribuna are by Pinturicchio:
and the Chapel to the right of the high altar contains
a picture 'of the Assumption, by Annibale Caracci! The
Chigi-Chapel was decorated according to the designs of
Raphael; and contains a statue of Jonas, designed by him,-
and executed under his immediate orders, by Lorenzettoll
The statue of Elias, also, is supposed to have been designed
by Raphael; the other statues were done by Bernini. Near
this chapel is the singular Monument of the Princess Odes-
calchi Chigi.

C/zz'esa dz' S. Carlo aZ Como. This Church was begun
according to the designs of Onorio and Martino Lunghi,
and ﬁnished by Pietro da Cortona ; who erected the cupola.
The picture which adorns the high altar is by Carlo Maratta,
and represents the Apotheosis of S. Carlo! The Tribuna,
the angles of the cupola, and the ceiling of the nave, were
painted by Brandi. The Chapel in the cross, on the right,
was designed by the Cav. Paolo Posi; and the picture in
mosaic with which it is adorned is a copy of that painted by
Carlo lVIaratta in the church of the Madonna del Popolo:
the statue of Judith is by Le Drum; and that of David by

348 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. Vin.

Pietro Pacilli. The third Chapel on the right contains a
picture of S. Barnaba, by Mola !

Chiesa di S. Ignazz'o. This magniﬁcent ediﬁce was erected
by Cardinal Ludovico Lodovisio, chieﬂy after the designs
of Domenichino: it is ornamented with ﬁne antique columns
of marble; and contains two beautiful Chapels made after
the designs of the celebrated Father Pozzi, a Jesuit. That
on the right is adorned with a ﬁne alto-rilz'evo, by Le Gros,
representing S. Luigi Gonzaga, whose body is deposited
here in a tomb encrusted with lapis lazuli. The other
Chapel contains a basso-rilz'evo, by Filippo Valle, represent-
ing the Annunciation. Here, likewise, is the Monument of
Gregory XV, by Le Gros; and a Picture of S. Guiseppe
dying, by Trevisani! The Ceiling of the nave and tribuna
are ﬁnely painted by Pozzi; and the former represents the
Apotheosis of S. Ignatius; from whose head issue rays, em-
blematical of his having enlightened the four quarters of the
world. ‘

Chiesa di S. S. Apostoli. This noble structure was erected
by Constantine; and afterward rebuilt by Fontana. The
Portico of the old ediﬁce is still entire; and contains an
antique basso—rz'lievo of an Eagle at one end; and, at the
other, a basso-rz'lz'cvo of Friendship deploring the death of
Volpato, by Canova. The church is divided into three
aisles by pilasters of the Corinthian order. The Ceiling of
the nave was painted by Baciccio; and represents the triumph
of S. Francesco. The Ceiling of the tribuna was painted by
Odazzi, and represents the fall of the Angels! ! The high
altar-piece is by Domenichino Muratori. The ﬁrst Chapel,
on the right, near the great door, and the Chapel in the
cross, on the right, are particularly rich in marbles: and,
adjoining to the latter, is another Chapel, which contains
eight beautiful antique ﬂuted Columns of white marble. The
second Chapel on the left near the great door, is adorned

can. vm. ROME. 349

with particularly ﬁne columns of verde antique and other
marbles: and over the door of the Sacristy is the Monument
of Clement XIV, by Canova ; who has placed the statue of
the Pope between two female ﬁgures, namely, Temperance
and hieeknessll ‘

C/zz'csa (12' S. .Marz'a dz' Loretta. This little Church, which
is deemed a ﬁne piece of architecture, was built by Sangallo;
and has a double cupola, like S. Peter’s: it contains a cele-
brated statue of S. Susanna, by Fiamingo.

C/zz‘em dz' G632). This magniﬁcent ediﬁce was erected by
Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, after the plan of Vignola;
and ﬁnished by Giacomo della Porta. The Frescos on the
ceiling of the nave, tribuna, and cupola, are by Baciccio;
who has represented S. Francesco Saverio ascending to
Heaven !! The angles of the cupola are particularly beau-
tiful. The Chapel in the cross, on the right, was made after
the designs of Pietro da Cortona ; and contains a picture by
Carlo lVIaratta, representing the death of S. Francesco Sa-
verio. The high altar is decorated with ﬁne columns of giallo
antico, and a picture of the Circumcision by Muziano! The
Chapel of S. Ignatius, executed after the designs of Father
Pozzi, is peculiarly magniﬁcent; the columns which adorn
the altar being lapis lazuli ﬂuted with bronze gilt; and the
globe held by the Deity the largest piece of lapis lazuli ever
seen. Above the altar, in a niche encrusted with lapis lazuli,
is a demi—colossal Statue of S. Ignatius accompanied by three
Angels, and done after the designs of Le Gros. The re-
mains of the Saint repose under the altar, in a tomb of
bronze gilt, adorned with bassi—rz'lz'evi and precious stones:
and on one side of the altar is a celebrated group of Religion
vanquishing Heresy, by Le Gros ! and on the other side a
group, by Teudone, which represents idolatrous nations
embracing Christianity. The Ceiling was painted by Ba-
ciccio. This church contains one of the best organs at
Rome.

850 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

C/zz'esa (12' S. Andrea della Valle. This noble ediﬁce stands,
according to some opinions, on the site of the Curie of
Pompey, where Caesar was assassinated: its Cupola, by
Lanfranco, is deemed a master-piece! ! the four Evangelists
in the angles are by Domenichino; and the S. John is called
his chefd’aauvrc in this description of painting. The Ceiling
of the tribuna was done by the same great artist, and repre-
sents the life of S. Andrew: the three large frescos on the
walls of the tribuna are by Calabrese, and represent the
martyrdom of S. Andrew. The Strozzi-Chapel was de-
signed by Buonaroti; and the Barberini-Chapel is rich in
marbles and sculpture, and in paintings, by Passignani.

C/zz'esa: della Trinita de’ Pelegrz'ni. This Church contains
a High Altar-Piece by Guido, representing the Trinity.
Our Saviour is on the cross accompanied by two kneeling
Angels; his ﬁgure and countenance are particularly ﬁne:
over the cross hovers a dove; and higher up, is God the
Father!!! The representation of the Deity in the lanthorn
is likewise by Guido.

Citiesa, dz' S. Carlo a Catenarz'. This is a noble ediﬁce
adorned with one of the most beautiful cupolas in Rome.
The Ceiling of the tribuna was painted by Lanﬁ‘anco; and
the cardinal Virtues, in the angles of the cupola, by Dome-
nichino: they are strikingly ﬁne; particularly the ﬁgure of
Fortitude! ! ! The Annunciation in the ﬁrst Chapel, on the
right of the entrance-door, is by Lanfranco ; and the death
of S. Anna, in one of the Chapels of the cross, by Andrea
Sacchi ! l ! The high altar is decorated with four columns of
porphyry, and a picture by Pietro da Cortona. The Ceiling
of the Sacristy was painted by Lanfranco, and represents
the Assumption; and an adjoining room contains a portrait

of S. Carlo, by Guido?“

* The Church of S. Carlo a Catenari contains a Monument
to the memory of Lorenzo Sperandi; with an epitaph, which

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 351

C/zz'csa dz' S. Giovanni dc’ Fiorcntz'm'. This ﬁne L’Church,
erected according to the designs of Giacomo deilla Porta,
contains a Picture of the martyrdom of Saints Cosimo
and Damiano, by Salvator Rosa! a Chapel painted by
Lanfranco! a Picture of S. Girolamo by Cigoli; and the
LMonument of one of the Corsini—family, by Algardi.

Citiesa 072' S. Maria in Vallz'cella, commonly called Citiesa
Nwova. This splendid Church was built by S. Filippo
Neri, after the designs of Martino Lunghi and Pietro da
Cortona ; the latter of Whom painted the Ceiling of the
Nave, the Cupola, and the upper part of the Tribuna;
which last represents the Assumption. The Altar-Piece
of the ﬁrst Chapel on the right was done by Scipio Gaetano
-—the dead Christ, in the next Chapel, is a copy from
M. A. Caravaggio’s celebrated picture in the Apparta-
mcnto Bmgz'a. The high altar is adorned with four ﬁne
columns of Porta-Santa, and a superb Ciborio. The Tribuna
contains Paintings, by Guido; but they are considerably
damaged. The Chapel of S. Filippo Neri (under one of
the organs) contains his ashes, and his portrait in mosaic,
copied from the original of Guido: the Chapel under the
other organ contains a picture, by Carlo Maratta. The
next Chapel to that of S. Filippo Neri contains a picture,
by Baroccio, of the Presentation of the Madonna in the
Temple ! The following Altar-Piece is by the same artist,
and represents the Visitation: and the Paintings in the
last Chapel are by the Cav. d’Arpino. The Sacristy is
adorned with a statue of S. Filippo Neri, by Algardi! a
picture of the Madonna contemplating the crown of thorns,

records, that he was famous for terminating amicably the differ-
ences which occurred amongst his friends and relations— an
uncommon panegyric; though one of the greatest, perhaps
that can be bestowed on any man.

352 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm.

by Trevisani; and a Ceiling ﬁnely painted by Pietro da
Cortonai’l! The apartments above-stairs contain a Ceiling
which represents S. Filippo Neri, by Pietro da Cortona;
the portrait of the Saint from which the mosaic in the
church was taken, and a head of our Saviour, by Pietro
Perugino!

C/zz'esa (132' S. Maria della Pace. This Church contains,
on the right of the great door, Raphael’s celebrated Sibyls,
supposed to be predicting the birth of our Saviour!!!*
This valuable fresco was almost obliterated, and would
soon have been totally extinct, had not an able living artist,
within the two last years, restored it: and so well has he
executed this difﬁcult task that every lover of the art of
painting would wish to see him employed in restoring those
frescos of the Stanzc dz' Rqﬂ'aello which are hastening
rapidly to decay. Above the sibyls are four Prophets,
likewise by Raphael. The Frescos on the left of the great

* If the Etrurians were, as some authors suppose, originally
Cananeans, probably they might bring the old Testament into
ltaly:—and as the Romans borrowed many of their religious
ceremonies from the Etrurians, it seems fair to infer that the
Sibylline Oracles might be derived from the Bible. Libyca
prophesied 5 “ That the day would come when all men would
see the King of all living things.” Cumaea, a Babylonian,
prophesied; “ That God would be born of a Virgin, and
converse among sinners.” Delphica prophesied; “That a
Prophet would be born of a Virgin.” Erythraea, a Babylonian,
foretold a great part of the Christian religion, in verses recorded
by Eusebius; the ﬁrst letters of which, being put together,
make the words, “ Jesus Christ, Son cf God, Sariour?’ and
l’ersica foretold, That the womb of the Virgin would prove the
salvation of the Gentiles.

The word, Sibylla, is oriental, and signiﬁes a Gleaner of ears
of corn.

gag; ﬁwmsm‘ ‘3‘4"<“:‘r<

 

CHAP. vm. ROME. 353

door are l attributed to T imoteo d’Urbino. - Thai'second
Chapel, on the right, is embellished with good 'ﬁ‘dpture;
and this church also contains a picture of the Visitation, by
Carlo Maratta.

C/zz'esa (12' S. Agostz'no. Here is a celebrated Fresco of the
Prophet Isaiah, by Raphael, placed to the left of the great
door, and on the third pilaster of the nave ! !!

Palazzo—Luciano. This palace, which belongs to Prince
Luciano Bonaparte, contains a small but choice collection of
sculpture and paintings; among the most striking of which
are—a basso-rz'lz'evo of Amalthea suckling Jupiter, executed
by a celebrated Grecian artist ! ! ! —- Ganymede and the
Eagle, by Buonaroti !——a sepulchral Vase, by Donatello——
another Vase, of the same description, found at Tusculum
——a picture of S. Cecilia, by Guido l—ditto, of Vanity and
Modesty, by Leonardo da Vincilll—ditto, by Annibale
CaraCci, of our Saviour saying, that the children’s meat
should not be given to the dogsill—rditto, by Ludovico
Caracci, of our Saviour giving sight to the Blind l. ! ~ditto,
by Agostino Caracci, of our Saviour raising the Dead !—-
ditto, of our Saviour before Pilate, by Gherardo delle
Notti l H —— ditto of the Illadomza dez' Candelaéri, by
Raphaellllﬂa portrait, by the same artist—and another,
by Vandyck—a picture of our Saviour on the cross, and the

two hiarys standing near, by BuonarotiH—ditto of the
murder of the Innocents, by Niccolo Poussin ! l—and ditto

of S. John and other Saints, by Domenichino—an antique
top of a VVell, beautifully adorned with bassi—rz'lz'evz' ./-—a
bronze Statue, found at Tusculum—and the statue of a
Lady belonging to the Family of Germanicus, likewise _
found at Tusculum, and beautifully draped *.

* The Palazzo-Luciano contains several ﬁne pictures, which
I have not mentioned, because I was unable to see them.
' A A

3?]: TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARVIIL

Palazzo—Bm'ghese. This is one of the most splendid
ediﬁces at Rome; and particularly rich in Pictures. T he
Quadrangle contains‘statues of Giulia Faustina, an Amazon,
8:0. The paintings usually shown to Strangers are in the
apartments on the groundﬂoor; t/zeﬂrst room of which con-
tains; our Saviour taken into custody, by Vanderweck—-
S. Catherine, and other ﬁgures, by Parmigianino~—-a ﬁne
painting by Bassano—S. Peter, by Spagnoletto—our Saviour,
by Valentino—a sketch of the school of Raphael, by Gior-
gione! S. Francesco, by the Cav. d’Arpino—a Holy Fa-
mily, by Titian—S. Domenico, by Andrea Sacchi—a Holy
Family, by Benvenuto Garofalo l—and the same subject, by
Sasso-Ferrato. T he second room contains; a dead Christ, by
Federico Zuccari ! —a head of our Saviour, by Agostino
Caracci ! —— a head of the Magdalene, by ditto ! — our Sa-
viour, dead, by Garofalo l—Diana shooting, by Domeni-
chino ! !-——a Holy Family, by Carlo Dolci—our Saviour
bearing his cross, by Muziana—our Saviour on the cross
with the two Marys standing near, by Giulio Romano—a
head of S. Antonio, by Agostino Caracci—a head of S.
Francesco, by the same artist l—a Landscape, by the Ca-
racci school—the head of our Saviour, by Benvenuti Garo-
falof—and our Saviour, the Apostles, Sic. by Titian l—This
room likewise contains a Sarcophagus of porphyry, found.
in Adrian’s Mausoleum. Third room. A Madonna and
Child, by Benvenuti Garofalo—the same subject, by Gio-
vanni Bellino—the head: of an old Man, by Giulio Ro—
mano—ditto of Raphael, by himself l—ditto of Petrarca, by
Holbens l—two Paintings, by Gentilisca—a story from
Ariosto, by Lanfranco l—a Holy Family, by Titian—Por-
dcnone and his Family, by himself! —- the last Supper, by
Titian—S. Antonio preaching to the Fishes, by Paolo Ve-
ronese—the Madonna and our Saviour, by Francesco
Frangi—S. John Baptist in the desert, by Paolo Veronese—
and S. Francesco, by Annibale Carac ci. Fourtlz room. S,

c HAP. vm. ROME. 355
Cecilia, by Domenichino ! ! !—S. John, by Gililiqﬁomano
—Q. Sebastiano, by Rustichino—the Descent from the Cross,
by RaphaelH—a l\Iother in bed, surrounded with her
Children, by Titian !——the Flagellation, by Sebastiano del
Piombo—a group of Figures eating, by Fiamingo. Fifth
Room. The Woman taken in Adultery, by Titian! —a.
Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto ——-a Holy Family, by
the School of Raphael—four oval Pictures, by Albano ! l!
—the battle of Constantine, by the Cav. d’Arpino—two
Landscapes of the Caracci school—and the Madonna and
our Saviour, by Pietro Perugino. Sixt/z room. Leda,
attributed to Leonardo da Vinci—Venus, by Paolo Vero-
nese—the three Graces, by Giulio Romano—Venus, by
Titian—ditto by Andrea del Sarto—ditto by Giulio Ro—
mano—Cupid and Psyche, by Dossi—and Venus, by An-
nibale Caracci. Seventh room. A Holy Family, by Gior-
gione—ancient 1VIosaics ——a Descent from the Cross, by
Marcello Venuschi—Orpheus, by Paul Brill, and a Pic-
ture Gallery, by Fiamingo. Eight]; room. The prodigal
Son, by Titian—sacred and profane Love, by the same
great artist ! l—Portrait of Caesar Borgia, by Raphael I l—
a portrait by Pordenone—a Cardinal, by Raphael ! Ninth
room. The Graces, by Titianlllwthe prodigal Son, by
Guercinol—our Saviour on the Cross, by Vandyck l—a
Boy with ﬂowers, by Annibale Caracci—a Holy Family,
by Andrea del Sarto—the lVIarriage of Cana, with two
small pictures on the sides, by Garofalo—the Adoration of
the hiagi, by Bassano ! l 4a sketch of Samson, by Titian—-
and a Portrait, by Bronzino. Tent/z room. A Holy Fa-
mily, by Venuschi—the same subject, by Scipio Gaetano!
-—the same, by Andrea del Sarto l—the same, by Giovanni
Bellino — and the same, by Benvenuti Garofalo—Lot and
his Daughters, by G-herardo delle Notti—the Bladonna, our
Saviour, and S. John, by‘Andrea del Sarto—a portrait, by
A A 2

356 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.VIII.

Titian—the Ascension, by Federico Zuccari—the Ma-
donna and our Saviour, by Francesco Frangi—a small head
of our Saviour, and another of the Madonna, by Carlo
~Dolci.

Palazzo—Scz'arra. The second story of this ediﬁce con-
tains a small, but choice collection of Pictures; the greater
part of which once adorned the Palazzo—Barberini. First
room. Our Saviour bearing his Cross, by the Cav. d’Ar-
pino—S. Barbara, by Pietro da Cortona—IVOZZ' me tangere,
by Garofalo !—the lVIadonna and our Saviour, by Giovanni
Bellino——-a copy of the Transfiguration, attributed to Carlo
Neapolitano—S. Sebastiano, by Pietro Perugino !—our Sa—
viour and the Woman of Samaria, by Garofalo l—S. Fran-
cesca and an Angel, by Carlo VenetianoﬂAbraham’s sacri-
ﬁce, by Gherardo delle Notti— Raphael’s favourite Lady,
by Giulio Romano—a small picture of the Madonna and
our Saviour, by Titian—ditto of a Holy Family, by Bassano
—ditto of a Descent from the Cross, by Bassano—a large
antique Painting, subject unknown. Second room. A small
Landscape, by Paul Brill—two Landscapes, by Claude
Lorrain !—-tw0 ditto by Fiamingo—two of a larger size, by
Both l—Cupid,'by the Cav. Landi—two small Landscapes,
by Breugel l—and, between them, a little Claude—a Land-
scape, by Niccolo Poussin. T lzz'rd room. The Holy Fa-
mily, by Francesco Frangi—Noah intoxicated, by Andrea
Sacchi—our Saviour bound to the column, by Leonella Spada
—-Cleopatra, by Lanfranco l—the Descent from the Cross, by
Baroccio—our Saviour between Angels, by Fiamingo—
Samson, supposed to have been painted either by Caroselli,
or Guercino ! l —— Moses, by Guido ! l—a Holy Family, by
Albano ! !—and our Saviour, the Madonna, and other
Saints, by Albert Durer. Fom'tlz room. Vanity and Mo-
desty, by Leonardo da Vinci ! I ! —Gamblers cheating a
Youth, by M. A. Caravaggio ! ! l—oh/Iatrimony, by Agostino

W" "

CHAP. vm. ROME. 357

Caracci—the l‘w/Iagdalene, by Guido l—S. James, by Guer-
cino—the death of the Virgin, by Albert Durer—the Adorap
tion of the Magi, by Garofalol—Titian and his family,
by himself ! —T he Portrait of a Lady, by Titian !—the mar-
tyrdom of S. Erasmus, by Niccolo Poussin l—the Magda-
lene with radishes, by Guido l !-——S. Girolamo, by Guercino!
-—S. Mark, by the same artist ! —- S. John, by ditto ! — two
men contemplating ahuman scull, by Schidone—the portrait
of a Youth, by Raphael !—-—the head of S. John after deca-
pitation, by Giorgione—the Madonna, our Saviour, and S.
John, by Fra Bartolommeo; together with small pictures
by Breugel, Albano, and Giotto.

Palazzo—Dorz'a. This magniﬁcent palace contains a
numerous and ﬁne collection of Pictures. The Ceiling of
tileﬁrst room, shown to strangers, is adorned with a painting,
by Pietro da Cortona, of Noah’s sacriﬁce; and Landscapes
on the walls, by Gasparo Poussin. Second room. Land-
scapes, by Poussin; and a Turk on horseback, by Castig—
lione! T/zz'rd room, The marriage of S. Catherine, by
Scipio Gaetano—a landscape, representing the repose in
Egypt, by Both—our Saviour bearing his cross, by Andrea
lVIantegna—a large Landscape, by Poussin—the Conversion
of S. Paul, by Taddeo Zuccari—a large landscape, with
ﬁgures of Nymphs and Loves, by Albano—the Madonna,
our Saviour, and S. John, by Giovanni Bellino; and Ani-
mals entering the Ark, by Bassano. Fourth room. A picture
of Endymion, attributed by some persons to Rubens, and,
by others, to Guercino—the Deposition from the Cross, by
Paolo Veronese !—a portrait of lVIacchiavello, by Andrea
del Sartol—Portraits of Bartoli and Baldo, in the same
picture, by Raphaelll—a Head, by Titian—Cain slaying
Abel, by Salvator Rosa” ~—the portrait of a Lady, by
Rubens—a Pieta, by Annibale Caracci! l—the Descent from
the Cross, by Vasari; and a small Picture, attributed to

 

358 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

Giulio Romano. F gfth room. S. Louis, King 'of France,
giving alms, by Andrea Mantegna; and the Rape of Pro-
serpine, by Paolo Veronese. Sixth room. S. Girolamo, by
Spagnoletto~Time plucking Cupid’s wings, by Albano!——
Bathsheba, by Bronca—a Presepc, by Bassano—a fat Cook
surrounded with eatables, attributed to N1. A. Caravaggio—
and Roman Charity, by Valentino. Gallery ,-ji7'st division ,-
lzft side. A picture of our Saviour disputing with the
Doctors, by Dossi—the Visitation, by Benvenuto Garofalol
—two small oval Landscapes, by Domenichino !——Tbe
blessed Virgin in contemplation, by Sasso—Ferratto l—the
Magdalene, by T itian—the Confessor of Rubens, by the
latterl—a large landscape, called Il I'dolz'no, by Claude
Lorrain ! ! l—six Lunettes, by Annibale Caracci; namely;
the ﬂight into Egypt !—the Visitation !——the Assumption!
——our Saviour borne to the Sepulchre !———the Nativity !—
and the Adoration of the lMagil—S. John Baptist, by
Valentino—a Head, by Guido—ditto, by Baroccio—S.
Francesco, by Domenichino l—Lot and his Daughters, by
Gherardo delle Notti l—S. Rocco with his dog, attributed
to M. A. Caravaggio, and likewise to Schidone—A land-
scape, by Claude!!! (immediately above Domenichino’s
lunette of the adoration of the lVIagi ;) it represents a sacri-
ﬁce to the Delphic Apollo——a Sketch, by Correggio, of
Virtue, and other ﬁgures—41 Holy Family, by Andrea del
Sarto. The second division oft/716 Gallmy contains no pic—
tures. T/zird dirz'sz'on. The lAlagdalene, by lVIurillo!—a,
landscape, by Claude, called I! Riposo z'n‘Egz'ttolH—the
Madonna adoring our Saviour while asleep, by Guido !_
the prodigal Son, by Guercino ! ! l—a small Landscape, by
Annibale Caracci, between two smaller Landscapes, by
Claude—a large Landscape, by dittop— Pope Pamﬁli, by
Velasquez l—Judith and Holofernes, by Guido—a large
landscape, by Salvator Rosa, called his Belisariollll—S.

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 359

Agnes, by Guercino—a Satyr and a Youth, by Agostino
Caracci—another Claude l—a Holy Family, by Sasso—Fer—
ratto—a Landscape, by Both—four Misers, by Albert
Durerlll—a Shepherd with Pan’s pipe, by Rembrandt.
Fourth division of the Gallery. Pomona and other ﬁgures,
by Paolo Veronese— the Madonna, our Saviour, Sac. by
Garofalo—several Pictures by Breugel—Animals going into
the ark, by Bassano—Susannah, by Annibale Caracci—a
Landscape, by Domenichino! l-Samson, by Guercino—
an Angel visiting S. Peter in prison, by Lanfranco—Abra-
ham’s offering of his son, by Titian! l—a Boy with sheep,
by M. A. Caravaggio—a small picture of our Saviour on
the Cross, by Buonaroti l—the Maddalena sedeate, by M.
A. Caravaggio—Queen Giovanna of Aragon, by Leonardo
da Vinci—a Sibyl, by Guercino i—Simon Magus, S. Peter
and S. Paul, by Tiarino—a Village-feast, by Teniers !—
a copy of the Aldobrandini marriage, by Niccolo Poussin!
——-a Woman catching ﬂeas, by Gherardo delle Notti—the
Nativity, by Sasso—Ferratto—Calvin, Luther and Catherine,
by Titian l—and the Descent from the Cross, by Padova-
nino.

Palazzo-Braccz'ano. This spacious ediﬁce was erected
by the Chigi family, after the designs of Carlo hiaderno
and Bernini; and has recently been ﬁtted up with great
magniﬁcence, by its present Possessor, the Duke di Brac-
ciano. T/ze Quadrangle and Staircase contain some antique
and some modern sculpture. The Ceiling of the Gallery
on the right, upstairs, was painted by Domenico del Frati,
and the Cav. Landi: the oval near the statue of Hercules
is by the latter. The pavement is mosaic, and beautifully
copied from that which adorns the circular hall of the
Vatican. Here are several pieces of modern sculpture;
and at the end of the Gallery four antique Statues; together
with the Hercules of Canova, represented in the act of

 

‘360 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII

throwing Lichas into the sea H The ﬁrst. room on this side
of the palace contains a Ceiling painted by Cammucini;
which represents the fable of Cupid and Psyche! th‘e pave-
ment is a beautiful copy from antique mosaics. The second
room contains the statue of a Philosopher seated ! — ditto of
an Infant Herculesl—and ditto of two Children! The
second division oft/i6 Gallery is adorned with a Ceiling by
Pozzi, and a picture of the lVIadonna and our Saviour, by
Rubens. T/ze ﬂzird division oftlze Galleiy leads to a room
adorned with a beautiful mosaic pavement, copied from that
which representsthe arrival of Helen and Menelaus in
Egypt, and which was found in the Temple of Fortune at
Palestrina. T be next room is ornamented with a mosaic pave-
ment; and the third room with a statue of Paris —- a picture
of the Holy Family, by Gherardo delle Notti—the same
subject, by M. A. Caravaggio—the lVIadonna and our
Saviour, by Rubens—the Magdalene, by Gherardo delle
Notti—a Pietd, by Bassauo—a small Landscape, by Fia—
milgo—the Adoration of the blagi, by Bassano, and a
blagdalene by Guido. , The fourth room contains several
interesting portraits (one of which is by Raphael, and an-
other by Vandyck) and a beautiful miniature Pieta‘, by
Annibale Caracci! T lzeﬁﬁ/z room contains a Cleopatra,
by Guido l—the Bladonna and our Saviour, by Sasso-Fer—
ratto—a picture, by Guercino, which represents Painting
and Sculpture !——Cl1ildren, by Giulio Romano l—S. Gre-
gorio, by M. A. Caravaggio—S. Girolamo, by Titian—the
marriage of S. Catherine, by Parmigiano; and the Holy
Family, by Giulio Romano. The sixth room is adorned
with two Landscapes by Claude, one of which is particularly
beautiful; and, between them, a Holy Family, by Giovanni
Bellino—a Magdalene, by Murillo—and our Saviour with
the VVoman of Samaria, by Pietro da Cortona. Tile last
(liaising; ofﬂzc Gallery is adorned with a Ceiling by Palagi

 

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 3861

—-a beautiful modern Urn—and an antique statue of a
‘ atrCanephora.

Palazzo—Colonna. This immense ediﬁce stands on the
site of the Domus Cornelz'z'. The staircase is adorned with
a statue representing a Captive, (probably taken from the
Forum of Trajan;) and ﬁxed in the wall, opposite to thy
entrance door, is a Basso-7‘27Zz'evo of porphyry, representing
the head of lVIedusa, and supposed to be a likeness of Nero.
The hall of entrance contains a bust of Alexander. The
ﬁrst room, usually shown to strangers, is adorned with a
Ceiling, by Lanfranco. The second room contains three
Landscapes, by Gas. Poussin—S. ApolFonia, by Carlo
Dolci ! -——another Saint by the same artist—three pictures
of Saints, by Guercino—two small Landscapes, in bad con-
dition, by Salvator Rosa

 

and in the adjoining Chapel the
hIadonna and our Saviour, painted on transparent alabaster,
by Carlo Maratta. The third room contains Tapestry,
and one Painting, by Carlo lVIaratta. The fourth #00333 is
adorned with Tapestry, and a Ceiling, by F. Zuccari.
_ The sixth room contains a Landscape, by Paul Brill—ditto
by N. Poussin—ditto by G. Poussin—two small Land-
scapes, by Salvator Rosa—the hicther of Cenci, by Scipio
Gaetano—Cenci herself, by Guido! and a small Column
of rosso antico, called Colonna Bellz'ca, which, according to

some opinions, once stood before the temple of Bellona *5?

The seventh room contains a Group of sleeping Boys, by
Bernini. An apartment upstairs contains the prodigal Son,
by Fiamingo !——-the Magdalene, by Guido !! and a female
Painter, by Guercino. The anti-roam t0 the Gallery down
stairs contains Europa, by Albanoll—Cain and Abel,

* When Rome declared war against a foreign Enemy, an
arrow was shot from the top of the column that stood before the
Temple of Bellona. ’

*x

’5'!

362 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm,

by Andrea Sacchi ! !-—a Peasant eating, by Annibale Ca-
racci ! !-—-a Music Master, by Tintoretto—Calvin, by T itian‘
—Luther, by the same artist—S. Paul, by Guercino—
Moses, by ditto—a dead Christ, by Bassano—the Madonna
and our Saviour in Raphael’s ﬁrst style—and Leda, by
Correggio. The Colomm Gallery, (in point 40f size and
architecture, the ﬁnest apartment at Rome), measures, in
length, two hundred and nine feet; and, in breadth, thirty-
ﬁve: at each extremity is a Saloon, or Vestibule, separated
from the rest of the Gallery by columns and pilasters of
giallo antico. The Ceiling is well painted; and represents
the battle of Lepanto: and among the pictures and statues
which embellish this apartment are the following. A Land-
scape, by Claude—four Landscapes by Orizonte—two ditto
by Gas. Poussin—and one ditto by Niccolo Poussin——
S. Peter with the Angel, by Lanfranco—several Persons
sleeping, by N. Poussinl—the Expulsion of Adam and
Eve from Paradise, by Domenichino l~Caesar sacriﬁcing,
by Carlo Maratta—two Battle Pieces, by Bourguignone—
the Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto—S. John preaching
in the Desert, by Salvator Rosa l—S. Sebastiano, by Guer-
cinol—a statue of Dianal—ditto of Floral—ditto of
Trajan, Germanicus, and Venus.

Palazzo—Giustz'm'am'. This ediﬁce stands on the site of
Nero’s Baths, whence many of the statues, busts, and other
antiquities of its museum were taken. The Quadrangle
and its portz'co exhibit twelve antique columns of granite;
and a considerable number of statues and bassi—rilievz',
among which is Domitia seated. Several statues adorn the
staircase, and that of Mercury merits observation. In the
hall above stairs is a statue of Marcellus seated! another
of Rome triumphant; and a group of two Warriors ﬁght-
ing! Some of the most striking pictures in this palace
are; our Saviour, Martha, and Mary, by Ludovico Caracci

CHAP. vm. ROME. 363

;¢our Saviour and Mary Magdalene, by the same artist—
ur Saviour in the Garden, by Gherardo delle Notti—the
head of the Magdalene, by Annibale Caracci—S. John,
by Guercino—S. Mark, by Albano—our Saviour with the
Apostles, by Ludovico Caracci—the Flagellation, by M. A.
Caravaggio—S. Sebastiano, by Giulio Romano—the Dist;
pute with the Doctors, by Spagnolctto—Jacob’s dream,
by Ludovico Cigoli—S. Peter denying our Saviour, by
Gherardo delle Netti—our Saviour and S. Brigida, by
. Polidoro da Caravaggio— S. blatthew, by M. A. Caravaggio
-—the three Marys, by Pietra Testa—the Flight of the
Gardener, by Gherardo delle Notti— the Baptism of our
Saviour, by Lanfranco—the Visitation, by Agostino Caracci ;
and Domz'ne qua vadz's, by Ludovico Caracci !! Some of
the most striking pieces of sculpture are ; sleeping Boys, by
Algardi-Cupid—Bacchus—Venus—a Grecian Statue with
the arms elevated !!—a Group called Matrimony l—the
statue of a young Hero l—hleleager—a statue of Marcus
Aurelius when young—a Mercury—a bust of Marcus
Aurelius—a statue of Chastity!-—-a l\/Iuse——a bust of Scipio
——ditt0 of Plato—ditto of Pindar—a Bacchante, worth ob_
servation on account of the drapery—a bust of Pompey—a
statue of Paris 'l—a Gladiator with a Phrygian capl—a
statue of Ceres—a bust of Achilles—ditto of Alexander——
ditto of Vitellius l—an Infant HerculeS—a Female coming
from the bath (perhaps Leda, as she rests on a swan)—the
bust of a Faun l—the statue of a Goat l—a Female sleep-
ing,
berus—a statue of Diana of Ephesus—a bust of Jupiter
Serapis-a statue of Minerva—ditto of Apollo—and ditto

of Polyhymnia.

Palazzo—Massz'mz'. This ediﬁce contains a statue of 21

called Venus—Vesta—a group of Hercules and Cer-

Discobolus, in white marble; copied from that, in sbronze,
by the celebrated Myron; and deemed one of the ﬁnest

 

364 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN'I‘. ‘CHAP. VIII.

pieces of sculpture in Rome!!! Here, likewise, are two
small statues of Boys—a ﬁne picture of S. Girolamo readt
ing, with an Angel looking over him, by Niccolo Poussin !—
and, on the Back-Front of the palace, are Frescos, by M. A.
Caravaggio!

.53. Palazzo-Spada. T/zegrozde-ﬂoor of this ediﬁce contains
two rooms adorned with ﬁne Sculpture. In tileﬁrst, is a
copy of the head of Laocoon, and a statue of Antisthenes
seated” In the second, eight Bassi—rz'lz'evz' found in the
Temple of Bacchus !! and a colossal statue of a Warrior
holding a globe, supposed (though Without good authority)
to represent Pompey the Great, and to be the ﬁgure at whose
base Caesar fellll This statue, if report speak truth, was
found in a vault, under the Strada de’ Leutari, near the
Piazza di Pasquino. Among the pictures up stairs the fol-
lowing are some of the most striking. First room. David
with the head of Goliah, by Guercino ; and Roman Charity,
by M. A. Caravaggio. Second room. Judith with the head
of Holofernes, by Guido—Lucretia, by ditto—the head of

a Landscape, by T eniers—

 

Seneca, by Salvator Rosa
—Jacob at the VVell, by Niccolo Poussin—and Time un-
veiling Truth, by Albano. T llz'rd room. S. Anna teaching
the lVIadonna to work, by M. A. Caravaggio! l—our Saviour
before Pilate, by Gherardo delle Notti—Judith with the
head of Holofernes, by lVI. A. Caravaggio—Beatrice Cenci,
by Paolo Veronese—and Dido on the funeral Pile, by
Guercino. Fourth room. A portrait of Paul III, by Titian
-—-ditto of Cardinal Spada, by Guido !—a Snow Piece,
attributed to Teniers— the heads of two Boys, attributed
to Correggio ! l—The lVIagdalene, by Guercino; and a
female lVIusician, by M. A. Caravaggio.

Palazzo-ZVIattei. This palace was built after the designs
of Ammannati, on the site of the Circus Flaminius. Tile

Quadrangle exhibits some valuable pieces of sculpture,

cur-11>. vm. ROME. 365

which adorn the exte1ior walls of the building; and on
‘te stairs me two antique Seats of marble, and two ﬁne
Bassi-nlzevz'. T 126 comzdor aéove 1s likewise o1namented
with bassi—rz'lievi ,- and in the rooms usually shown to
strangers are the following paintings. Fish, Poultry, and

Butchers’ meat, four pictures, all by Passeri—Charles I, "z

and Charles II, of England, by Vandyck—-two Landscapes,
attributed to Passeri—a Holy Family of the Caracci—school
—Abraham’s sacriﬁce, by Guido—the Nativity, by Pietro
da Cortona; and the Cavalcade of Clement VIII, and the
Entry of Charles V, into Bologna, by Tempesta. The
gallery contains a bust of Cicero ! and its Ceiling is ﬁnely
painted by Pietro da Cortona, Paul Brill, Sac.

Palazzo—Cosz‘agutz'. This palace contains six Ceilings
ﬁnely painted in fresco: the ﬁrst, by Albano, represents
Hercules wounding the'Centaur—The second, by Dome-
nichino, represents Apollo in his car; Time bringing
Truth to light; and Boys with lions’ skins, Hercules’s
club, Ste. l!-——T/26 third, by Guercino, represents Rinaldo
and Armida—The fourth, by the Cav. d’Arpino, represents
Venus, Cupid, Sic—The ﬁfth, by Lanfranco, represents
Justice embracing Peace—and the sixth, by Romanelli,
represents Arion th1own into the sea, and preserved by a
dolphin! Here, likewise, is an interesting pictu1e of a
Gipsey, by M. A Caravaggio; together with two Loves,
by Domenichino.

Palazzo-Farnese. This immense palace, commenced by
Sangallo, and ﬁnished by Buonaroti and Giacomo della
Porta, is deemed a ﬁne piece of architecture *1 Before it

* Most of the materials for building the Farnese-palace were
taken from the Colisaeum and the Theatre of Marcellus : indeed
the Colisaeum, during many years, seems to have been con-
sidered merely as a stone-quarry.

 

«a "a:
_

366 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

stand two magniﬁcent oval Basins of Egyptian granite
.(above seventeen feet in length, and between four and ﬁve
in depth) which were found in Caracalla’s Baths: and in
tile Quadrangle is the Sarcophagus of Cecilia Metella, made
of Parian marble; and found in her monument. The
Gallery above stairs is adorned with some of the most
celebrated Frescos in Rome, by Annibale Caracci and his
scholars. The centre-piece on the Ceiling represents the
Triumph of Bacchus and Ariadnell—Other paintings
represent, Paris receiving the golden Apple from Mercury
-——Pan offering goat-skins to Diana— Galatea, with Tritons,
Nymphs, and Loves—Jupiter and Juno—Apollo ﬂaying
lVIarsyas Boreas carrying of? Orythia—Diana and Endy-
mion—Eurydice recalled to Hell—Europa on the Bull——
Aurora and Cephalus in a chariot drawn by two horses,
Titan asleep, and Cupid ﬂying with a basket of roses—-
Venus and Anchises—Hercules and Iole—Cupid binding
a Satyr—Salmacis and Hermaphroditus~ Syrinx turned
into reeds, by Pan—Leander conducted, by Cupid, swim-
ming to Hero—Perseus and Andromeda—the combat
between Perseus and Phineas—Polyphemus playing on the
syringe, to charm Galatea—Polyphemus hurling the frag-
ment of a rock at Acis—Jupiter and Ganymede and
Hyacinthus and Apollo. Adjoining t0 the Gallezy is a
room that contains three Paintings, by Domenichino, which
merit attention, because they show how his frescos were
done; as they are near the eye, and can, therefore, be seen
perfectly. Another apartment, called Il Gabz'netto, contains
ﬁne Frescos, by Annibale Caracci; namely, Hercules
supporting the celestial globe—Ulysses delivering his
Companions from Circe and the Sirens—the same Hero,
tied to the mast of his vessel, passing the Islands of the
Sirens——Anapus and Amphinomus saving their parents
from death, during an Eruption of ZEtna—Perseus behead-

 

 

CRAP. vm. ROME. 367

ing lVIedusa—and Hercules ﬁghting with the Nemean
Lion. The Ornaments, in Chiaroscuro, which divide these
paintings, are beautifully executed.

Palazzo-Farncsz‘na. The Hall of this ediﬁce is ﬁnely
painted in fresco, by Raphael and his scholars; who have
represented the History of Psyche. On the Ceiling are
the Council and the Banquet of the Gods—In one of the
Angles are the Graces; and she whose back only is seen
was entirely executed by Raphael himself. In an adjoining
room is the Galatea of the same great artist; and a ﬁne
colossal Head, in one of the Lunettes, sketched with
charcoal, by Buonaroti, while he was waiting for one of his
scholars *1 On the Ceiling is Diana in her car, drawn by
bulls; and the Fable of lVIedusa, together with several
other Ornaments, by Daniello da Volterra, Sebastiano del .
Piombo, and Baldassar Peruzzi. Tile Izall above stairs
contains a painting of Vulcan’s Forge, by Peruzzi; and a
beautiful Frieze, executed by the scholars of Raphael 1-.

Palazz -Falco_nz'eri. The Pictures here, collected by
Cardinal Fesche, are very numerous, and several of them
very ﬁne. The frstﬂoor contains, an Assumption by
Guidol—S. Sebastiano by ditto—Semiramis, at her toilet,
receiving intelligence of a revolt, by Mengs l—The
Madonna, our Saviour, and S. John, by Murilloll the
sepulchre of our Saviour, by Albanol—the ﬂight into
Egypt, by dittol—S. Carlo Borromeo, by Domenichino

* \Ve are told that Buonaroti, thinking the ﬁgures in this
room too small for the situations in which they are placed,
drew the above-named head, in order to make Raphael sensible
of his error: and the latter is said to have felt the criticism so
poignantly that he was disgusted with his work, and never
ﬁnished it.

1- It is not always possible tp gain admittance to the Palazzo-
Farnesina, unless the Custode be apprized beforehand.

368 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CIIAP. VIII.

--a Landscape, by Salvator Rosa—Do. by Poussin—
two portraits, by Paris Bordone—the Madonna and our

Saviour, by Annibale Caracci—our Saviour borne by
Angels after the cruciﬁxion, by Correggiol—two Children,
by Do. ! l—the Cruciﬁxion, by Raphael—a small picture of
our Saviour, by Carlo Dolci l—our Saviour in the tomb, by
Annibale Caracci—a Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto—
Cupid riding on an Eagle, by Domenichino !—-the last
Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci—the Madonna and our
Saviour, by Correggio—S. Francesco, by Domenichino—
heads of our Saviour and the Madonna, by Carlo Dolce—
the Baptism of our Saviour, by Albano ! !——a Bust ofNapo-
leon—S. Peter denying our Saviour, by Gherardo delle
Notti ! l—the Magdalene, by Vandyck—a ﬁne portrait, by

sditto—several pictures of insides of Churches, by Peter
Neff!—a Sea—Piece, by Cuyp—a ﬁne Picture by Ostade !!
ditto by Teniers ! —ditto by Wouvermans ! l — ditto by
Adrian Vanderwelde ! ! —Our Saviour in the custody of
soldiers, by Teniers —— S. John preaching, by Rembrandt!
—two ﬁne Portraits by ditto—the Duke of Alba, by Van—
dyck—the death of Abel, by the master of Rubens ! l—the

Adoration of the Magi, by Rubens. The second ﬂoor con-
tains; a picture of Diana, and other Figures, by Le Sueur ! !
Our Saviour; Mary, and lVIartha, by ditto ! l—the Holy
Family with Angels, by Niccolo Poussin ! ! —Human Life
represented by the four Seasons, one of the ﬁnest works of
N. Poussin! ! l—the Deluge, an equally excellent work, by
the same great artistlll—several ﬁne Landscapes, by N.
Poussin -- ﬁve Landscapes, by Claude — and a landscape,
by Niccolo Poussin, called Les Chartre‘ux !!

’ Palazzo—Corsini. This noble palace, once the residence
-of Christina of Sweden, contains a magniﬁcent double stair—
case, which leads to a suite 0? rooms enriched with some
good Sculpture, and several ﬁne Pictures. First room. A

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 869

Sarcophagus found at Antium i ——an ancient Mosaic—a
Head, copied from Guido, in modern mosaic—a Bust in
nero antico. Second mom. The Marriage of S. Catherine,
by Carlo Maratta— and two Landscapes, by Orizzonte.
T/zz'rd room. An Ecce 1107720, by Guercino l ! l—S. Peter and
S. Agatha, by Lanfranco—the Holy Family, by Baroccio—
S. Girolamo, by Guercino—the Madonna and our Saviour,
by NI. A. Caravaggio —~the same subject, by Vandyck l-—-
two small Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa — the lVIadonna
and our Saviour, by Andrea del Sarto—two heads, said to
be those of Luther and his Wife, by Holbein—the Holy
Family, by Fra Bartolommeo ll—our Saviour and the \Vo-
man of Samaria, by Guercino —— heathen Divinities, by Al-
bano— Julius II, by Raphael—Philip II, by Titian l—the
Visitation, by Giorgione — the lVIartyrdom of S. Bartholo-
mew, by Ludovico Caracci —- and a Consular Chair of Pa—
rian marble. Third room. The bladonna and our Saviour,
by Andrea del Sarto —a Vestal, by Carlo blaratta—the
Holy Family, by ditto— Raphael’s Forizm‘iim, by Giulio
Romano—S. Girolamo, by Titian wPaul III, by Raphael l l
——the lVlagdalene, by Baroccio—S. John, by Guercino—
the Holy Family, by Bassano—the Cruciﬁxion of S, Peter,
by Guido l—a wild beast Hunt, by Rubens l—a Rabbit, by
Albert Durer l l—the celebrated decapitation of S. John, by
Guido ll l and a small statue of our Saviour, by Buonaroti!
Fourth room. The Annunciation, by Carlo hlarattal—
an Ecce Homo, by Carlo Dolci ! l — the Madonna and our
Saviour, by Albano—an Ecce Ifomo, by Guido l-—S. John,
by dittol—the Holy Family, by Bassanol and the same
subject, by Schidone. Fiﬁ/z room. The portrait of a Lady,
. by Leonardo da Vinci l—the Sons of Charles V, by Titian !
———Pope Pamﬁli, by Valesquez —-—the portrait ofa Gentle.
man, by Albano—ditto by Giulio Romano! and the portrait
of Rembrandt, byhimself. Sz'rf/z room. The Woman taken
B n

370 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. crunvm.

in Adultery, by Titianl—a large Landscape, by Gas.
Poussin ! — two Landscapes, by Orizzonte —— our Saviour
disputing with the Doctors, by Luca Giordano—aMa-
donna and Child, by Murillo; and S. Sebastiano, by Ru-
bens. Seventh room. A Pz'etd, by Ludovico Caracci —— S.
John Baptist, by M. A. Caravaggio — two oval pictures, by
Albano—Judith with the head of Holofernes, by Gherardo
delle Nottil—Love, sleeping, by Guido—Seneca in the
Bath, by M. A. Caravaggio—Landscapes, by Gas. Poussin
-—Peter denying our Saviour, by Valentino —— 3 Sketch for
a Frieze, by Polidoro da Caravaggio! and Susannah, by
Domenichino. ’z'm‘lz room. Sheep, Sic. by Teniers l—the
Holy Family, by Niccolo Poussin l—Prometheus, by Sal-
vator Rosa l—the Plague at Milan, by Muratori—a Land-
scape, by Niccolo Poussin— and two oval pictures of
Angels, by Sebastiano del Piombo.

Accadenzia dz' S. Luca. This Academy, and the adjoining
Church of Saints Luca e Martina, stand near the Forum of
Augustus; and the latter is supposed to have been built on
the foundations of the Temple of lVIars. The Academy
contains the Skull of Raphael—a celebrated picture, by that
Artist, of S. Luke painting the portraits of the lVIadonna
and our Saviour, and Raphael himself looking on ! ! l—a
picture of our Saviour with the Pharisee, by Titian !—two
Landscapes by Salvator Rosa—ditto by Gas. Poussin— two
Heads, by Angelica, one being her own portrait—Diodels,
by Buonaroti, of some of his ﬁgures in the Cappella de’
Principe at Florence; and several other interesting pieces,
of Sculpture and Painting. The Church of Saints Luca e
Martina contains a recumbent statue of the latter Saint,
under the high-altar, by Niccolo Menghino: and here like-
wise is a subterranean Chapel, made by Pietro da Cortona,
at his own expense.

CHAP. vm. ROME. 871

VILLAS NEAR ROME.

Villa-Olgiati, faori la Porta del P019010. This Casina,
likewise called Villetta-Olgiati, was once inhabited by Ra-
phael and his scholars; who have embellished it. with elegant
Arabesques, and other Frescos; some of which are in to-
lerably good preservation: and one of these paintings, namely,
the lVIarriage of Alexander and Roxana, is deemed particu-
larly beautiful.

Vz'lla-Borg/zese. The Paddock in which this magniﬁcent
Villa stands, is near three miles in circumference; and
contains a halldsome Fountain, and a Temple, called that
of fEsculapius, from an antique statue of JEsculapius placed
there! The Portico of the Villa leads to a splendid Hall,
the Ceiling of which was painted by hiariano Rossi, and
represents the Combat between Furius Camillus and the
Gauls. Here, likewise, placed most advantageously, near
the ceilintr

(,9
Gulph l l! The horse (than which nothing can be ﬁner) is

is an Alto—rz'lz'evo of Curtius leaping into the

certainly antique; but, according to some opinions, the
ﬁgure of Curtius is modern. The second room below stairs
contains a statue of David, by Bernini. Tile tin-rel room is
embellished with a Fresco on the Ceiling, by Caccaniga; it
represents the Fall of Phaeton. The fourth room contains
a group of Apollo and Daphne, by Bernini—another of
fEneas and Anchises, &c.; by the Father of Bernini—a
group of three Children, by Algardi! and four Vases by
lVIassimiliani. The Ceiling of the Gallery was painted by
Pietro Angeletti, and represents the fable of Acis and
Galatea. Over the chimney-piece of another apartment is
a Basso—rz'lievo, in rosso antico, by Agostino Penna. Here,
likewise, is a room painted by Hamilton; who has repre-
sented the story of Paris and Helen: and in the same room
is a superb modern Vase, made of oriental marble. The
B B ‘2

>71.”

872 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

most striking easel Pictures are; S. John, by Mengs—a
Bacchanalian Scene, by Niccolo Poussin—a Holy Family,
by Luca Giordano—and the portrait of Paul V, by M. A.
Caravaggio. This villa also contains two Ceilings painted
by Conca (the one representing Anthony and Cleopatra;
the other a Bacchanalian Sacriﬁce); and likewise a Ceiling
painted by Lanfranco, and retouched by Corvi, which re-
presents Hercules, Antaeus, and heathen Divinities *.

Villa-Ludovz'sia, near the Portal-Salami One of the
buildings in the Garden belonging to this Villa contains
Guercino’s Aurora; a Fresco equally famous with, though
totally different from, that of Guido; the one representing
Day-break, the other Sun-rise. The Ceiling of the room
immediately over Guercino’s Aurora is adorned with a
beautiful ﬁgure of Fame, accompanied by \Var and Peace,
all by Guercino. Another building contains a celebrated
statue of Mars ! [—a beautiful group, supposed to represent
Phaedra and Hippolitus, by Blenelaus, a Grecian Sculp-
tor l ! l—a group, called Paetus and Arria l l—and a basso—
' rilz'evo of Pyrrhus ll Near the garden-gate is a ﬁne head
of Juno: and this garden likewise contains a statue of. a.
Senator, with “ Zenon,” (the name of a Grecian sculptor)
on the draperyi. It is necessary to choose a ﬁne day for
seeing the Villa Ludovisia, every thing worth notice being
in the garden.

V z'Zla-Albam'. This is one of the most magniﬁcent Villas
in the environs of Rome; and contains a large Collection of

“ The Custode of the Villa-Borghese lives at the Borghese-
Palace, in Rome; but is always ready to show the Villa, when
desired.

1‘ The V illa-Ludovisia, though beyond the streets, is within '
the walls of Rome.

t It is impossible to obtain admission to the Villa—Ludovisin
without an order from the Prince de Piombino.

CHAP. vm. ROME. 373

Statues, Busts, Bassi—rillevi, 8w. Staircase. A basso-rilievo
representing Hercules and the Hesperides—ditto of three
of the Children of Niobe—ditto of the Goddess supposed to
protect Infants; the last being Etruscan sculpture. Rooms
leading to tlze Gallery. A little group of a Faun and a Bear
—-the head of a young Faun !—a small statue of Pallas,
in bronze l—Apollo Sauroctonon, in bronze !—Canopus,
in basaltl—Osiris—Hercules in reposel—and the cele-
brated Alto-rz'lz'evo of Antinous ! !! Gallery. This apart-
ment is beautifully encrusted with rare marbles, and its
ceiling ﬁnely painted by Mengs; who has represented Apollo
and hlnemosyne encircled by the Muses ! l ! Here are bassi-
rz'lz'evz' representing Hercules between two of the Hesperides
—Icarus and Daedalus—Bellerophon and Pegasusmand
Marcus Aurelius seated, with Faustina in the character of
Peace. Here, likewise, is a statue of Jupiter, and a cele-
brated statue of Pallas ! ! ! Galleries of sculpture below-stairs.
The Satyr Blarsyas; (the limbs of this statue are modern)—
a beautiful Column of ﬂowered alabaster—a basso-rz'lz'evo
representing the history of Aleestis—ditto representing
Phaedra and Hippolitus ~Agrippina seated l—a Basin, ten
feet in diameter, adorned with bassi—rilz'evi representing the
labours of Hercules l—an Etruscan Minerva—two Vases
adorned with bassi—rz'lz'evi—the head of Jupiter Serapis in
basalt !—a small statue of a Comedian—Apollo seated and
draped—a Child hiding itself under a mask—a small antique
Fountain; and several Urns in basalt. These Galleries
likewise contain Hermie of the most distinguished Charac-
ters of Antiquity; Sec. 8:0.

At the end of each Gallery, below-stairs, is a small
I’erz'stz'le: that on the left side contains an ancient mosaic
Pavement, and a statue 'of Diana of Ephesus—and here,
likewise, is an Etruscan Altar, embellished with Bassi-rz'lz'evi.

374- TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CI-IAP.VIII.

The opposite Peristz'le is adorned with Canephorae *, and
one of the statues called Caryatides, which were found on
the Via-Appia, and are supposed to be Grecian sculpture l l
Another Building, adorned with a circular Portico,
contains Busts and Statues; among which are those of
fEsop, Bacchus, two Canephorae, and another of the
statues called Caryatides. This Portico leads to‘a small
Vestibule containing Antinous in transparent oriental ala-
baster—the same subject in rosso antico—Osiris—-Orus——~
Isis; and an Owl in basalt, with the Phallus on its head.
Near this Apartment is (mot/267', adorned with a basso-
rilievo, representing Trimalcion followed by Comedians,
entering a banqueting room. .
Vz'lla-Illattez'. This villa is situated beyond the Arch of
Dolabella, though within the walls of Rome. It was long
neglected by its original possessors, the Mattei family; but
has been repaired and embellished by its present owner
the Principe della Pace. The garden is adorned with an
Egyptian obelisk; and commands a particularly good view
of Caracalla’s Baths. 7726 ﬁrst room shown to strangers,
in the Villa, contains a copy of the Demoniac Boy. The
second room is ornamented with the statue of a sleeping
Love—ditto of Venus, by Canova—and a group, called
Filial Affection, by a Spanish Artist. T he t/zz’rd room con-
tains a copy of Raphael’s Galatea—a picture of the Saluta-
tion—and another of our Saviour dead and borne on mens’
shoulders. Tile/2220172 room contains a picture of Horatius
Cocles on the Sublician bridge, copied by Cammucini from
that in the Capitol—a Landscape—and the Rape of the
Sabines. Tilefﬂlz room contains a striking picture of a

* Noble Roman Ladies, Priestesses of Minerva, who carried
on their heads, in baskets, various things destined for sacriﬁce.

CHAP. vm. ROME. 375

Saint blessing a dying person—another picture of the mar-
tyrdom of a Saint, and a bust of Nero by Canova. The
sixth room is adorned with an ancient Pavement, found
near the Villa.

Villa D07“z'a-Pan‘zﬁli, fuorz' la Porta S. Pancrazz'o. On
the J aniculum hill, and in the way to this Villa, is the Church
qf S. Onofrio; which contains, under its portico, three
Lunettes, painted by Domenichino. The Madonna and
our Saviour, over the door, were likewise done by the same
great master; and, in the Church, are the Tombs of Tor-
quato Tasso, and Alessandro Guidi; the former of whom
died in the adjoining convent, which contains a Bust,
moulded from his face.

Beyond the church of S. Onofrio is the Fontana—Paolz'na,
constructed at the command of Paul V, by Fontana, with
materials taken from the Forum of Nerva. This mag-
niﬁcent Fountain is adorned with six Ionic columns of red
granite, that support an entablature, upon which rest the
arms of the Pontifl'. From three niches, between the
columns, rush three immense torrents of water, and pre-
cipitate themselves into a vast basin of marble: while from
two smaller niches rush smaller streams, out of the mouths
of dragons. The water is supplied from Trajan’s Aque-
duct. About three-quarters of a mile beyond the Porta
S. Pancrazio, on the Via Aurelia, is the Villa, Doria-Pam-
ﬁli; of which Algardi was the architect. The Paddock
belonging to this Villa is nearly four miles in circumference;
and, according to some opinions, the site of the Gardens of
Galba. The Villa contains several pieces of Sculpture, by
Algardi, and other artists; among which are, Faustina !—
Vespasian—Marcus Brutus—and a Sibyl. Here, likewise,
is a Sketch, by Raphael—ditto by Giulio Romano—a bust
of Demosthenes l—ditto of another Philosopher—a group
of Cybele seated on a lion L—Groups of Children at play—

«I
I "

 

r

“a

376 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. V11].

Clodius in female ‘attire—an Hermaphrodite—Bacchns, in
rosso anticol! and two beautiful Sarcophagi, one repre-
senting the story of hieleager, the other Diana descending
from the celestial Regions to visit Endymion ! l l T he attic
story of the Villa contains a small collection of Grecian
Vases, Ste; and the Barf commands a particularly ﬁne
View of Rome. The Garden likewise commands a ﬁne
View of Rome, and is embellished with VVater-works, re—
freshing in summer, though not remarkable for their beauty.

Vz'ZZa-Madama, ﬁtori la Form-Angelica. This ediﬁce,
which stands near the base of the Monte Mario (anciently
Clivus Cz'mzrc), was designed by Raphael, and ﬁnished,
after his death, by Giulio Romano; who painted the portico,
and designed the ornaments in stucco, with which it is also
embellished. The interior of the villa, though in a ruinous
state, exhibits a beautiful Frieze, and a Ceiling, both
painted by Giulio Romano, who has represented, on the
latter, the Cars of Diana and Apollo, Birds, Beasts, &c.;
among which are a sleeping Lion, and a Goat going to be
sacriﬁced, both ﬁnely executed. This room likewise con-
tains most valuable Cartoons; which are so totally neglected
that they. must very soon be quite spoiled. Two other rooms
exhibit Friezes and Cartoons, cruelly injured, but once
very beautiful. The View from this villa is charming; and
the Ponte hiolle, Tiber, city of Rome, and mountains of
the Apennine, appear to more advantage here, than from
any other spot.

A winding path leads from the Villa—Madama to the
upper part of the Monte Mario, where stands the Villa-
]llellz'na, whence the Mediterranean sea may be discovered *.

* Every Basilica is, or ought to be, always open, from sun-
rise till sunset. Persons wishing to be sure of admittance, at
any given hour, to Palaces and Villas, should apply a day before-

 

CHAP. VIII. norm. 377

There are several Hospitals at Rome: that of S. Spi'rz'to is
a noble ediﬁce, and receives Foundlings, and sick Persons
of all descriptions *. T/ze Hospital of S. Michele likewise
is a spacious building, and receives Invalids, aged Persons,
and Orphans; the last of whom are taught the arts of
Painting, making Tapestry, Ste.

T/zc Mosaic Illamtfacturc, near S. Peter’s, under the
direction of the Cav. Cammucini, is highly worth notice]; as
are the Studii of that distinguished artist, and the Cav.
Landi. Keiserman, No. 31, Piazza di Spagna, is a cele-
brated Landscape Painter in water colours. The Cav.

hand. Admittance to the Museums of the Capitol and Vatican
may usually be obtained on days when they are not open to the
public, by an application to the Custode of each Museum ;
who, if thus called upon, would expect a fee of ﬁve or six
pauls 5 and perhaps more, should the party he attends be very
numerous. At S. Peter's it is advisable to appoint the Sacristan
a day beforehand ; and likewise at small unfrequented churches.

The expense of seeing the whole of S. Peter’s, including the
subterranean Church, amounts to several pauls; as there are
three or four Sacristans, each of whom expects a fee. In other
churches there is but one Sacristan; and he does not expect
more than two pauls. At a Palace it is usual to give at Rome,
as in other cities of Italy, from three to ﬁve pauls, according to
the size of the party: and in subterranean apartments where the

Custode provides wax lights, it is usual to give from three to

four pauls. 1

Late in the spring, when the weather at Rome becomes hot,
parties frequently go to the Villa-Madama, taking with them a
cold dinner; which they eat on the terrace there; and then
proceed to the shady walks which surround the Villa-Mellini 5
ordering their carriages to meet them at the foot of the hill
behind that Villa.

* The want of cleanliness, in this Hospital, makes it a dan-
gerous place to visit.

378 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. cunnvru.

Fidanza is a celebrated Landscape Painter in oils; and
especially successful in imitating Salvator Rosa. Raubell,
who resides in the Villa Malta, is a ﬁne Landscape Painter.
Forestier is deemed a good historical Painter; and Granet,
at the Scotch College, represents the insides of Churches
in a wonderful manner. Metz draws beautifully; and has
published ﬁne Engravingspf the last Judgment, and other
frescos in the Vatican.

The two greatest Sculptors of the present day are Canova
and the Cav. T horwaldsen; and the chisel of the latter pro-
duces Bassi—rz'lz'evz' which, like the Frescos of Raphael, may
be called inimitable *.

The best Cammeo-Worker is Dies, in the Via-Babuino.

In winter Rome is usually frequented by several English
medical men; among whom, during the two last winters,
has been Mr. Bell, one of the most distinguished .‘surgeons
in Europe.

Messrs. Torlonia and C0., the principal Bankers in this
city, are particularly obliging and useful to the British
Nation.

Rome contains six Theatres; all of which are open
during Carnival, and some at other seasons.

The Carnival at Rome usually begins eight days previous
to Ash VVednesday; and ﬁnishes with Shrovetide. During
this period of general festivity the Corso, a ﬁne street ex—
tending from the Porto del Popolo to the foot of the
Capitol, is decorated with tapestry and silk hangings from
every window and balconyf; enlivened with military bands

" A studio, near the Via-Babuino, contains, at the present
moment, thirteen statues, recently discovered in the Greek
Island of Egina: they are ﬁnely executed in the 'Etruscan
style; of high antiquity; and originally adorned the pediment
of a temple : they now belong to the King of Bavaria.

f When Triumphs, and other public I‘rocessions took place

 

CHAP. VIII. mum. 379

of music, and crowded with Masqueraders, in carriages
and on foot, from two in the afternoon till sunset; during
the latter part of which time horse races, like those at Flo-
rence, are exhibited. At night the Teatro Aliberti, a large
and handsome ediﬁce, is open for masked balls: and though,
during the three last days of Carnival, the crowd of Masks
on the Corso, and in other parts of the city, is great beyond
conception, and though the number of persons at the
masked balls often exceeds ﬁve thousand, not a single word
is spoken that can hurt the most'delicate ears, nor a single
thing done that can tend to disturb public tranquillity.
Another Festival, little known to Travellers, but well
worth observation, from being a remnant of the ancient
Saturnalz'a, is that celebrated on Sundays and Thursdays,
during the month of October, on the Monte Testaecio.
This hill contains the public wine vaults of the city, and
from being composed of large fragments of pottery, between
which the air constantly penetrates, is peculiarly ﬁtted for
its present use; as an invariable coolness is preserved
beneath its surface. On this hill, during the days already
mentioned, tables are spread with refreshments: and hither,
on these days, ﬂock the whole population of Rome and its
environs, to drink wine drawn fresh from the vaults beneath
their feet. It is impossible to conceive a more enlivening
picture than the summit of Monte Testaccio exhibits on
this occasion. Groups of peasants, arrayed in their gayest
costume, are seen dancing theﬁqntarella; others are seated
in jovial parties round the tables; and others mingle with
the upper ranks of Romans; who leave their carriages at
the foot of the hill, and stroll about to enjoy this festive
scene. Bodies of cavalry and infantry parade to and fro,

in ancient Rome, the streets were decorated, as at this day, with
veils or hangings.

880 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm.

to preserve order; while the pyramid of Caius Ccstius, and
the adjoining Tombs of the Protestants,’ by forming a
strong contrast to these Saturnalian rites, add interest to
the picture *.

During Lent the principal amusements are Church
Ceremonies, the Academy of the Arcadians; the Academy
Tiberina; the music (which begins about three o’clock
every afternoon) at S. Peter’s; and Serletti’s Concert, which
consists of a piano-forte and about twenty singers, who
manage so as to give their voices the effect of a full band of
instrumental music. They chieﬂy perform the lVIarcello
Psalms; so called from a noble Venetian who composed
this music, which is particularly ﬁne. In the Church of
Gesu, likewise, there frequently is ﬁne music during Lent.

The Ceremonies of the Holy VVeek commence on Palm
Sunday, in the Chapel of the Pontiﬁcal Palace at lVIonte
Cavallo; where the Pope ofﬁciates, and blesses the Palms.
In order to see this function, which represents the entry of
our Saviour into Jerusalem, it is necessary for Foreigners
to go at half-past nine in the morning T.

On Wednesday, in the Holy Week, at four in the after-
noon, the Tenebrre and the .Mz‘serere are sung by the Pope’s
Choir in the Cappella-Sistina i, and likewise in S. Peter’s.

On Holy Thursday Foreigners should be in the Cap-
pella~Sistina by half-past eight in the morning, to see the
Ceremony of carrying the Holy Sacrament to the Cappella-
Paolina; the illumination oﬂmt Chapel, and the representa-
tion of the Holy Sepulchre. They should then endeavour

* Pinelli constantly attends the Festival at Monte Testaccio,
to study subjects for his characteristic pencil.

T It is not deemed proper, during the Holy “reek, to appear
in public without wearing mourning.

i Allegri's Illiscrcrc is that usually sung in the Cuppella-

Sistina.

CHAP. Vim ROME. 381

to obtain front seats in the Loggia, near the Court leading
to the Museo-Chiaramonti; but if unable to accomplish
this, they should station themselves near the steps leading
to S. Peter’s; in order to see the Benediction; which takes
place about noon, and is a peculiarly ﬁne sight. After the
benediction, the Pope washes the feet of eighteen Pilgrims;
and then waits upon them while they dine. To see both
these Ceremonies is attended with so much difﬁculty that
Foreigners would do well to relinquish the former, and
witness the latter, which is generally considered the most
interesting of the two: and in order to accomplish this,
they should ascend the stairs opposite to those leading to
the hrIuseo-Chiaramonti; and instead of entering the Pil-
grims’ Hall, on the top of the stairs, turn into the Loggia
on'the left, which leads to the Dinner-room. At four in the
afternoon the T enebrw and llIiscrere are again sung by the
Pope’s Choir in the Cappella-Sistina; after which, the in—
side of S. Peter’s is illuminated by an immense Cross
thickly studded with brilliant lamps, and suspended from
the centre of the cupola.

On Good Friday, at ten in the morning, Foreigners
should go to the Cappella-Sistina, in order to see the Holy
Sacrament taken by the Pope from the Cappella-P’aolina.
At four in the afternoon the T enebrre and Mz'serere are again
repeated in the Cappella- Sistina ; while the iiluminated Cross
is again displayed in S. Peter’s: and about half—past seven,
in the evening of this day, there 'is a particularly good?
Arcadia.

On Saturday morning, at eight o’clock, Jews and Turks
receive baptism in the Church of S. Giovanni in Laterano;
where, during the morning, there usually is ﬁne vocal
music: and at ten o’clock the resurrection service is per-
formed in the Pontiﬁcal Chapel at Monte Cavallo, by the
Pope, Cardinals, Sac.

882 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. tenanvm.

0n Easter Day, at nine in the morning, Foreigners
should be at S, Peter’s, in order to procure good places for
seeing the Pope enter that Church in state: and after
having witnessed this splendid procession, they should once
more place themselves either in the Loggia, near the Court
leading to the Museo—Chiaramonti, or near the steps lead-
ing to S. Peter’s, in order to see the second Benediction,
and obtain a good view of the Piazza di S. Pietro, which,
on Easter-day, seldom contains less than an hundred thou-
sand persons, soldiers inclusive. Between twelve and one
o’clock the Pope returns in state from the interior of S.
Peter’s; and immediately ascends to the Loggia on the
outside of the church; where he no sooner appears than all
the troops kneel; and, when he has pronounced the bless-
ing, the drums beat, the cannon of S. Angelo ﬁre, and the
bells ring in every direction; while the superb costume of
the Pontiﬁcal Court, the picturesque dresses of the pea—
santry, and the splendid equipages of the Cardinals, foreign
Princes, 8cm; render this scene equally magniﬁcent and im-
pressive. About six in the evening commences the ﬁrst
Illumination of the outside of S. Peter’s; which is efFected
by means of four thousand four hundred paper lanthorns,
lightecﬂ by men suspended on the outside of the ediﬁce by
ropes, and drawn up and down by persons stationed
within: but the service is so imminently dangerous that
these lamp-lighters receive the sacrament before they begin
their labour. The lamps which compose this ﬁrst Illumina-
tion cast a light somewhat resembling that of the moon : but,
at seven o’clock, literally in one moment, the whole scene
changes, and presents the most brilliant spectacle imaginable;
as every part of the Church, to the very summit of the cross
on the cupola, appears one blaze of ﬁre. The materials
which compose this second Illumination are pitch, wood-

shavings, and eighty-four ﬂambeaux, sowonderfully managed

CHAP. vm. ROME. 383

x

that the eﬁ'ect is perfection. About eight o’clock com-
mence the Fireworks of the Castle of S. Angelo: for seeing
which to advantage it is needful to secure a balcony, or a
window, in the opposite Piazza. This magniﬁcent display
of ﬁreworks begins with an explosion, called the Girandola ,-
and produced by four thousand ﬁve hundred rockets, so ar-
ranged as to represent an eruption of Vesuvius. A variety
of beautiful changes then take place; and exhibit the
Tiara, the Keys of S. Peter, the Pope’s Name, blazing
super-eminently amidst more sombre ﬁre, and the Statue of
the Arch-Angel Blichael encompassed with resplendent
rays of glory. VVheels, Fountains, Roman candles, 8:0.
are likewise exhibited; and the whole closes with a second
Girmzdola that appears to convert the very Tiber into
ﬂames; and throws reﬂected light upon the majestic dome
of S. Peter’s, which shines brilliantly amidst the seeming
conﬂagration.

These ﬁreworks, and the illumination of the church, are
repeated on S. Peter’s day.

On Ascension day the Pope usually oﬁiciates; and like.
wise on the Festival of Corpus Domini; when there is a
magniﬁcent Procession, together with ﬁne l\’Iusic; the
latter being repeated for several days in S. Peter’s and the
Church of Gesu. On the ﬁrst Sunday in Advent he
usually ofﬁciates in the Capella-Sistina; on Christmas day
at S. Maria Blaggiorefwhither he goes in state*; on the
eighteenth of January at S. Peter’s, whither, likewise, he
goes in state (that being the anniversary of the day when-
S. Peter’s Chair was placed in the church); on the second
of February, in the Pontiﬁcal Chapel of Monte Cavallo, in

*Thcre is an interesting Function on Christmas day, at the
church of S. Maria Maggiore, from four till seven in the
morning.

384 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.V]II.

order to bless the Candles, which is a splendid ceremony;
and again on Ash Wednesday in the Pontiﬁcal Chapel of
Monte Cavallo, in order to throw Cinders on the heads of
the Cardinals, Sac.

The magniﬁcence displayed at Rome in church cere-
monies, and indeed on every public occasion, is unparal-
leled; but during the last winter and spring it could not
be witnessed without astonishment. The ﬁrst event which
called forth this spirit of magniﬁcence was the death of the
exiled Queen of Spain; whose funeral is said to have cost
thirty thousand scudi. After lying in state several days at
her own residence, the Barberini Palace (where, in con-—
formity with Spanish customs, her Ladies waited round
her as if she had been still living; and her Gentlemen at—
tended daily to ask what she would choose to eat for
dinner, and whether she would like to go out in her car-
riage); she was removed, in an elegant open sarcophagus
drawn by a pair of her own horses, to the Basilica of S-
Maria blaggiore; and placed on a sumptuous bier in the
centre of that church; which, being hung with black and
silver ornaments in a manner assimilating perfectly with
the style of the ediﬁce, gave it the appearance of a vast
public assembly-room arrayed in gorgeous mourning at-
tire. Here all the Ladies and Gentlemen belonging to
the Court of the Deceased, the Cardinals, and other Roman
Princes and Nobles, together with all the Foreigners of
distinction, and legions of inferior persons, were assembled
to hear the service for the Dead, and to take a last look at
her Majesty; who, dressed with regal splendour, and re-
sembling a large doll more than a corse, was placed in so
exalted a situation as to be universally seen. After this
ceremony, she was carried for interment to S. Peter’s, pre-
ceded by all the Confraternities in Rome, and attended by
a considerable number of Dignitaries of the Church, and

CH AP. VIII. ROME. 385

likewise by the Representatives of the Apostolic Chamber;
the former walking bare—headed, the latter on horseback,
and wearing their ancient costume. The Queen was car-
ried on a large open bier by thirty bearers, followed by the
sarcophagus, already mentioned, which conveyed her to S.
Maria hiaggiore; and, after this, came the deposed King
of Spain’s state carriages, sixteen in number, each being
drawn empty by a set of ﬁne horses, and attended by
livery servants. The procession amounted to three thou-
sand persons; most of whom held large wax torches; and
when their light (piercing through the veil of evening)
was thrown on the Castle of S. Angelo, where minute guns
were fired as the Body passed; when the same light glanced -
on the magnificent colonnades of the Piazza di S. Pietro,
and at length illuminated the facade of the church itself,
this scene, combined with the death-like quietude of every
spectator, the sonorous and solemn sound of the great bell
at S. Peter’s, and the roll on the muﬂied drums with which
the Body was received into the church, produced, all
together, the most mournful and impressive effect ima-
ginable.

The scenes which took place, in consequence of the Em-
peror of Austria’s visit to Rome, were of a very different
description. No sooner was it known that he intended to
honour the ancient hiistress of the world with his presence
than those hinges of papal government, the Cardinals *,
worked incessantly to prepare for his reception; insomuch
that every weed was removed from the streets and squares,
every museum put into the nicest order, and every apart-

* The word, Cardinal, is derived from Cardo, a hinge: and no
council has been so long established in Europe as that of the
Cardinals; for, though at times debarred from exercising its
authority, it never, since ﬁrst constituted, Was, even for one
moment, abolished.

C C

886 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. VIII.

ment of the immense pontiﬁcal palace on the Quirinal hill
(except a few rooms occupied by the Pope), new painted
and new furnished; while three hundred cooks were hired
for the Emperor and his suite, thirty carriages, beside those
which followed the funeral of the Queen of Spain, put into
requisition for his service; and three hundred coachmen and
footmen clothed in sumptuous liveries, and engaged to wait
on him, his companions, and attendants: and from the
moment when he arrived to that on which he departed, a
fete of some description was daily proposed for his amuse—
ment, to fill up the time not occupied by church ceremonies.
The most striking of these entertainments was the illumina-
tion of S. Peter’s, and the display of ﬁreworks at the Castle
of S. Angelo; the former being lighted according to Buo-
naroti’s plan, the latter exhibiting the Mausoleum of Adrian
in its original form, superadded to the gimndola, and
other customary changes. The Fete given at the Capitol
was likewise particularly splendid; and is said to have cost
twenty-ﬁve thousand louis—d’ors; an immense sum in Italy!
The two museums of sculpture and painting, and the
Senator’s palace, which fronts the steps leading to the
capitol, were all united by temporary galleries, and their
facades completely covered with ﬁreworks, so contrived
that the Emperor let them all off in due succession, merely
by lighting the touch-paper of one rocket. The interior of
the three united buildings was hung with white and silver
silk; the ceilings were adorned with paintings, and the
ﬂoors covered with green cloth; while some of the ﬁnest
sculpture now in existence added dignity and interest to
every apartment. An ode, written in honour of the Em-
peror, was sung by the best vocal performers, supported by
the best orchestra Italy could produce; while sixteen rooms
were thrown open containing supper-tables, exhibiting,
among other decorations, highly-ﬁnished miniature paint-

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 387

ings on wax; and loaded with every luxury of the Roman
market: such indeed was the quantity of eatables provided
for this entertainment, that no sooner had one dish been
emptied than another appeared, as if brought by magic to
fill its place. One of these supper-tables encircled the
bronze statue of the wolf which was struck with lightning
when Cmsar fell; and this statue made a beautiful or—
nament: other tables were adorned with equal taste; in
short nothing was wanted, but the presence of Rosa Taddei,
and Sgricci in the Arcadian hall, to add, by the wonderful
notes of their incomparable lyres, to the various enchant-
ments of the evening *.

It is necessary that English Ladies should have tickets
for the ceremonies of the Holy Week, 810.; which tickets
may be procured by an application to the British Con-
sul: and so particularly kind is the present Pope to the
British Nation, that every possible civility is shown them,
when they attend the functions of the Roman Catholic
Church. He likewise allows English Ladies to be intro-
duced to him, either in his garden, or a small room ad-
joining; and, when received in the latter, he seats them
by his side, and converses with much graciousness. His

* The hall where the Arcadian Academy assemble, when they
present the laurel crown to any one of their Members, is in the
palace of the Senator at the Capitol.

Rosa Taddei (called, in Arcadia, Licora Parthenopea) is a
celebrated Improvisatrice : and Sig. Tommaso Sgricci’s powers,
as an Improvisatore, are such that, on being given the most dif-
ﬁcult subject for a tragedy which his audience can suggest, he
never fails, after considering about ten minutes, to speak,
on the given subject, a tragic drama, divided into ﬁve acts, so
well constructed, and so beautiful with respect to versiﬁcation
and sentiments, that it is scarcely possible for those who listen
not to think him inspired.

c C 2

388 TRAVELS ON THE cONTINEN'r. CHAP. VIII.

countenance beams with benevolence, and his manners are
gentlemanlike: but, from stooping excessively, he appears
inﬁrm *. ‘

British Travellers have been allowed, during the last two
winters, to hire an apartment in the Foro Trajano, for the
celebration of divine service according to the rites of the
Protestant Church.

The Corso, and the drive, already mentioned, on the Trinitd
de’ Monti, are the Promenades most frequented at Rome.
This city contains several Hotels, and a very considerable
number of private lodgings. Among the former are
L’Hdtel de Londres, Piazza di Spagna—L’Hétel d’Europe,
Piazza di Spagna—L’Hétel (1e la Ville de Paris, and
L’Hétel des Russies, Via della Croce—L’Hétel de la Grande-
Bretagne, Via Babuino—L’Hétel de S. Carlo, and L’Hétel
de la Sibylle, in the Corso.

I will now close my account of Rome with a List of the
Objects best worth notice, as theyrlie contiguous to each
other; beginning with the Antiquities.

Faro Romano—Temple dz' Giove Tonante— Tempz'o della
Concordia—Area dz' Settimo Severo—Tempz'o dz' Summo—
Colonna dz' Plzocas— Tempio dz' Antonino Pz'o e Faustina—
T empio di Gz'ove Stator—Chiesa (12' S. Maria Liberatrz'ce—
Tempz'o dz" Romolo e Remo— Tempz'o della Pace— Tempz'o di
V were e Roma—Area dz' Tito—Colosseo—zl-rco ‘a’z' Cos-
tam‘ino— Chiesa (12' S. Teodoro—Area di Settz'mo Severo an
V elabmm—Arco di Giana szdi'yi'ome—Cloaca Maximal
——Clzz'esa dz" S. Maria in Cosmedm— Tempz'o dz' Vesta—
Tempz'o dz' Fortuna Vz'rz'les—Palazzo de’ Cesari—Cz'rcus
Maximus—C/zz'esa di S. Gregorio nel ZVIonte Celz'o—Terme
dz' Tz'to—Sette Sale—Chiesa dz' S. ﬁlartz'no in Monte—

* Ladies cannot be introduced to the Pope without wearing
veils, and dresses which come up to the throat : he does not like
to speak French himself 5 but permits Foreigners to answer him
in that language.

SW

CHAP. VIII. ROME. 389

Chiesa di S. Pietro in V incoli—Chiesa di S. Maria della
Navicella—Clziesa di S. Stefano Rotondo.

Obelisk oftlie Piazza del Popolo—Obelislc of the T rinitd
de’ Monti—Villa ﬁledici—Statues, Horses, and Obelisk in
the Piazza di Monte Cavallo— Clliesa di VS. Bernardo—
Clziesa 071' S. Maria degli Angeli—~Obelislc of S. Maria
Maggiore—Colnmn in the Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore—
Basilicaxdi S. Maria Maggiore—Obelislc of S: Giovanni in
Laterano—Battisterio di Costantino—Basilica di S. Gio-
vanni in Laterano—Scala Santa—Amphiﬂze‘atro Castrense
—Basilica di Santa Croce in Gerusalemo— Temple of Venus
and Cupid—Clandian Aqueduct—Ciliesa di S. Bibiana—
Tempio di Minerva ﬁledica—Arco di Gallieno— Chiesa di
S. Prassede.

Campidoglio—Tempio di Pallade———Tempio e Foro di
Nerva—Foro e Colonna Trajana—Dogana PontQic-ia—
Obelisk of Monte Citorio—Colonna Antonina—Mausoleo
(I’Augusto—Campo Marzo—Mausoleo Adriano.

Tempio del Sole, nel Giardino Colonnese—Obelis/c (f tile
Piazza di S. Maria sopra Minerva—C/ziesa di S. Maria
sopra JIinerva—Pantlzeon—-Bagni cl’Agrippa—Piazza Na-
vona—C/ziesa di S. Agnese——Teatro di ZVIarcello—Portico
di Octavia—Tempio (l’Esculapio—C/ziesa di S. Cecilia in
Trastevere—Basilica di S. Maria in Trasz‘evere. -

Clziesa di S. Prisca, I’llonte Aventino—C/ziesa di S. Sa-
bina—Chiesa a’i S. Alessio—Villa oftlze late King of Spain
—Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio— Terme di Caracalla—Sepolcro
de’ Scipioni.

Clmrclzes and Palaces. Basilica di S. Pietro—Vaticano.

Clziesa dei P. P. Cappuccini, in Piazza Barber-ini—
Palazzo-Barberini—Chiesa di S. Maria della Villoria—
Fontana di Termine— Clziesa di S. zindrea, a‘ Monte
Cavallo—Palazzo—Ponl‘iﬁcovPalazzo-Rosngliosiu Garden

390 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. vm.

containing Guido’s Aurora —— V illa—M iollis—Fontana di
T revi .

Cln'esa di S. [Maria del Popolo—Clziesa di S. Carlo al
Corso—C/ziesa (12' S. Ignazio—Clziesa di S. S. Apostoli—
C/ziesa di S. Maria di Loretta-Chiesa di Gesii—Ciziesa di
S. Andrea. della Valle—Citiesa della Ti'initci de’ Pelegrini—
Ciliesa di S. Carlo a‘ Catenari—Chiesa di S. Giovanni de’
Fiorentini— C/ziesa cli S. .Maria in Pkllicella —— Chiesa di
S. ZVIaria della Pace—Cliz'esa di S. Agostino.

Palazzo—Lucian0—Palazzo-B0rg}zese—Palazzo—Sciarra—
Palazzo-Doria —- Palazzo—Bracciano — Palazzo- Colonna —-
Palazzo-Giustiniani—Palazzo—Massimo—Palazzo—Spada—
Palazzo-Zlfattei — Palazzo- Costaguti— Palazzo-Farnese—
Palazzo-Farnesina—Palazzo—Falconieri—Palazzo-Corsini

—Accademia di S. Luca.

 

891

CHAPTER IX.
TIVOLI, FRASCATI, PALESTRINA, AND ALBANO.

Excursion from Rome to Tivoli—Pons M ammeus—M (mu-
ment of Julia Stemma—Lago di Tartari—Bridge of the
Solﬂztara —- Ponte Lucano -— Adrian’s Villa — Villa of
Cassius—Inns at Ticolé— Temple ofthe Tiburtz'ne Sibyl
— Temple of Vesta—~ Grotto oflVeptune —— Grotto of the
Sirens—Circular Terrace — Villa of Varus —— Ponte del
Aquoria—Tempio delta Tosse—Jlleccenas’s Villa—Site of
the Villa ofSallustusvz'tc of the Temple of Hercules—
Garden (f the Villa d’Este—Claudian Aqueduct, near the
Convent of S. Cosi'mato—Horace’s V illa and Sabine farm
— Excursion from Rome to Frascatt — Sepulchres —
Grotto-F errata — Cathedral at Frascati — Villas F alco-
m'eri and Rzgﬂirnclla—Rm'ns of Tusculum— Villa-Aldro—
brandini - Inn—Emcursion to Palestrina — Temple of
Fortune—Excursion to Albano—Tomb of Clodz'us—Am-
phi theatre — Reservoir — Pretorian Camp—Museum—
Lago—Castello — Castel-Gandolfb —- Emissario — Domi-
tian’s V illa— Tomb of the Cariatz’i —- Climate ofAlbano
and Aric‘ia —— Lodging-houses, &C. — Character (f the
Romans.

As British Travellers seldom visit Rome without making
excursions thence to Tivoli, Frascati, Palestrina, and Albano,
it may not, perhaps, be superﬂuous to mention what I found
the most convenient way of seeing those places.

'I‘IVOLI.

This excursion ought to be made in dry and temperate
weather; and persons who wish to view the scenery to ad-
vantage should go in May, or October.

3992. TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. Ix.

We hired an open carriage, with six seats and three
horses; paying ten scudi, for going and returning the same
day; and giving to our coachman, for buona-mano, one
scudo. The distance from Rome to Tivoli is about eighteen
miles; and the road, generally speaking, good; though now
and then in the ancient Via Tiburtina (great part of which
still remains) there are large loose blocks of basalt, which
might, if not avoided, break a carriage.

After passing the Gate and Church of S. Lorenzo, the
ﬁrst interesting object we discovered was the I’onte—JlIa-m-
molo (P0723 Mammms) thrown over the Teverone, anciently
called the Am'o, from King Anius, who precipitated himself
into it. This bridge is about four miles distant from Rome;
and derives its present appellation from Mammea, the mother
of Alexander Severus, by whom it was repaired. Further
on, we observed a small JVIommzcm‘, erected to the memory
of Julia Stemma, by her three Children: and beyond this,
on the left of the high-road, is the Lago di Tartm'z'
(anciently a volcano), which smells strong of sulphur, and
petriﬁes every vegetable substance with which its waters come
in contact. After examining. the Lake, we proceeded to the
Bridge of tile Solfaz‘am; which is thrown over a stream
anciently denominated Aqua’ Albulte; and so white as to
resemble milk; then driving about two miles further, we
were presented with a beautiful Landscape, formed by the
Ponte-Lucmw, the info, and the Plaza‘ian Tomb. T116
Ponte-Lucano is supposed to derive its name from BI. Plau-
tius Lucanus; which seems probable; as close to this bridge
stands the above-mentioned Burial—Place of his Family; a
remarkably handsome edifice of its kind, constructed with
stone called travertino, and taken from quarries on the side
of the Apennine near Tivoli. After crossing the Ponte-
Lucano, we observed two roads; that on the right leading
to Tivoli, which is two miles distant; that on the left to
Adrian’s Villa, which is about one mile and a half from the

NI

CHAP. 1x. ENVIRONS or ROME—TIVOLI. 393

bridge, and nearly twice as much from the town. We
took the latter road: and after having been precisely three
hours and a half in our carriage, from the time we left Rome,
arrived at Adrian’s Villa; where, ordering our coachman
to wait, we walked through the Ruins with a Cicerone who
is always on the spot to attend Travellers. Adrian himself
was the architect of this celebrated Villa; which extended
three miles in length, and one in breadth; and contained
Temples, Theatres, Baths, and Porticos, adorned with clzcjs-
d’wuvres of sculpture and painting; to which buildings he
gave the names of the most remarkable ediﬁces in the world;
calling one the Lyceum of Aristotle ; another the Academia
of Plato; a third the Prytaneum of Athens; a fourth the
Canopus of Egypt; a ﬁfth the Paecile of the Stoics; &c. &c.
VVe were conducted ﬁrst to the Greek T lzeah'e ,- of which
the Proscenium, and seats for the spectators, may still be
traced: we then visited the Paecile, of which there are con-
siderable remains, one wall being almost entire. Hence we
proceeded to the Temple of tile Stoics, and the Maritime
T/zeatre; both of which exhibit considerable remains: and
not far hence is a ruin called tile Library. VVe then exa-
mined what is called t/ze T emple (3f Diana and Venus ,-
afterward visiting the imperial Apartments,- the vaults of
which are, in some places, nearly perfect: hence we went to
tile Barracks oft/1e Pratorian Guard,- and a Hall destined,
it is supposed, for philosophical studies ; part of the Ceiling
of which still remains. Hence we proceeded to tlze Bat/ls ,-
observing traces of tile IVaumac/zia ,- and lastly visited the
Canopus, where some of the paintings are tolerably well
preserved.

Having spent an hour and a half in this Villa, we got into
our carriage and ascended the hill to Tivoli; passing through
a ﬁne wood of olives, and observing Ruins on the right,
supposed to be remains oft/26 Villa of Cassius. Tivoli, the

394 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. 1x.

ancient Tilmr, a place of high antiquity, is built upon rocks
formed of a deposition from the water in this neighbourhood,
united with roots and branches of petriﬁed trees. The Anio
descends from a great height at the east-end of the town;
where it forms a large and beautiful cascade: and, after a
second fall, under a lofty bridge, loses itself among rocks,
which are worn into fantastic shapes by the force of the
water. A branch of the same river is carried through
Tivoli; and forms small Cascades, which should be viewed
from the opposite bank. The best inn at Tivoli in some
respects is La Regina,- though in point of situation, that
called La Sibz'lla is preferable. After breakfasting at the
former, we visited tile T ample oft/16 T z'burtinc Sibyl, now
converted into a Church: it is the most ancient Temple
remaining at Tivoli; and appears to have been built in the
form of a parallelogram, with an open portico, adorned by
four Ionic columns, and terminated with a pediment. The
Columns on the outside of this edifice are still discoverable;
but there is nothing worth notice within. Adjoining to the
g, which
extends to the Temple of Vesta. This beautiful specimen of

above—named Temple is a shabby modern buildin

ancient architecture, proudly situated on a rock which hangs
over one of the cascades, is a small Rotunda surrounded by
an open portico of ﬂuted Corinthian columns, whose capitals,
adorned with olive—leaves and lilies, support an entablature
decorated with heads of oxen and festoons. Hence we pro-
ceeded through an excellent path, made by General lVIiollis,
to the Grotto of Neptune. Nothing can be more delightful,
both to the painter and the naturalist, than this walk; the
views it presents being remarkably picturesque; and the
petrifaetions in the rocks extremely curious. VVe observed,
in one place, a petriﬁed carriage—wheel; and in another the
hoof of a quadruped. The Grotto of Neptune, into which
the Anio precipitates itself with such violence as to form a

CHAP. 1x. ENVIRONS or ROME—TIVOLI. 395

spray resembling rain, combines the sublime and beautiful
so wonderfully that even Salvator Rosa’s magic pencil could

not do justice to the scene. We were particularly struck
by a rock (at the entrance of the Grotto) which, with a very
little aid from Imagination, might be ﬁgured as the Genius
of the Anio sculptured by the nervous hand of Buonaroti.
Returning hence, and then'descending a narrow ﬂight of
steps into a deep ravine, we reached the Grotto of the Sirens;

somewhat similar to that of .Neptune; and beheld the third
fall of the Anio. VVe then re—ascended to the Temple of
Vesta; and having ordered a donkey to attend us, in case
any one of the party should be tired with walking, we set out
for the circular Terrace, which exhibits the small Cascades
to great advantage, and makes a round of about four miles.
VVhile pursuing this tract we passed, on the right, the Villa
of Quintilius Varas ; observing Ruins of Baths, and a reser-
voir of water : while, on the left, we had a distant prospect
of the Cathedral, which is only remarkable for standing on
the site of the Temple of Hercules. Having crossed the
Ponte del Aquaria, an ancient Bridge in high preservation,

we visited an ediﬁce similar in shape to the Temple of
Minerva Medica at Rome, and equally well preserved. It
is called T empio della T osse ,- but whether because originally
consecrated to Tussis, the coughing God, or because it was
the sepulchre of the Tossie Family, seems uncertain. Hence
we proceeded, on the ancient Via Valeria, to Meccenas’s
Villa ,- the ruins of which prove that it must have been vast
and magniﬁcent: and the part through which the Via Valeria
passes, is well preserved and very interesting. Near this Villa
are curious rocks consisting of petrifactions; and opposite to
it is the site of the Villa quallust, called, by some persons,

that of Horace , but his Villa was ten miles distant.

Having passed the site of the temple of Hercules, to which
Mecaenas’s domain extended, we walked through the Garden

396 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. ix‘

of the Villa d’Este, which contains some curious Water-
Works, called the Girandola, and a Fountain embellished
with a colossal statue of the Tiburtine Sibyl, and another
Figure representing Tivoli. T/ze V illa contains Ceilings
painted by Zuceari, Muziano, &c.; but they have suffered
cruelly from neglect. Hence we returned to our inn; dined
there; and afterward drove back to Rome in four hours.

Persons who wish to see the remains of tile Claudian
Aqueduct near the Convent of S. Cosimato, should sleep at
Tivoli; and then set out early next morning, upon donkies, ‘
or mules, for the above—named Convent; which stands on a
cliff, overhanging a deep and narrow valley, through which
ﬂows a stream that, from being considerably obstructed in
its course, by fragments of rocks apparently fallen from the
surrounding precipices, is broken into beautiful cascades.
Here, where the Claudian Aqueduct crossed the river, one
arch remains: and some of tlze subtewanean part oft/12's
Aqueduct, which was carried through the centre of several
mountains, may be seen buried under the Convent-Garden,
and as perfect as if just ﬁnished; not even the plaster having
suffered from time. The mountains of S. Cosimato are
formed of the same tartareous deposition with those of Tivoli.
Horace’s Villa, and Sahz‘nefarm, are three miles distant from
the Convent; but so little now remains of the Villa that its
foundations cannot easily be traced.

FRASCATI.

VVe made the same arrangements respecting a carriage as
when we went to Tivoli; and, by setting out early, were
enabled to go and return with ease in one day. Frascati,
situated near the site of the ancient Tusculum, is twelve
miles distant from Rome: and the most interesting objects
in the direct road thither (which is a very good one) are,
the Sepulc/zres QfGenesz'us Alarcz'anus, and Lucius I'hlcrius

cusp. 1x. ENVIRONS or ROME—FRASCATI. 397

Carvz'nus. On our way to F rascati we visited Grotto-Ferrata ,-
which lies but little out of the direct road; and whence, to
F rascati, about one mile and a half in distance, the drive is
delightful.

Grotto-Ferrata, usually denominated the site of Cicero’s
T usculan Villa, was, in times past, a celebrated Convent,
founded by S. Nilus of the order of S. Basil; and subse-
quently fortiﬁed with high walls and iron gates; from the
latter of which its present name is derived. The quadrangle
contains part of a Basso-rz'lievo, said to have been found in
Cicero’s Villa, and representing a Roman General speaking
to an Ofﬁcer and a Soldier, who are bringing a wounded
Man into his presence. The Church contains a Chapel
consecrated to S. Nilus, and adorned with beautiful Frescos,
by Domenichino. The ﬁrst of which represents that Saint
meeting the Emperor Otho III l—the second represents the
demoniac Boy, deemed one of the best pictures Domeni-
chino ever painted!!! The third represents an Architect
showing the plan of the Convent to S. Nilus—another, Otho
III, embracing the Superior of the Community—another,
the Saint in the Desert, praying for rain —and, above the
altar, are Frescos, likewise by Domenichino. The Altar-
Piece is by Annibale Caracci.

The principal entrance to Frascati is through a hand-
some Gate leading to a spacious Square, in which stands
the Cathedral. This ediﬁce, however, presents no very
interesting object, except the modest Tomb of the Pretender
to the British diadem. The Vz'lla-Falconz'eri contains a
Fresco, by Carlo l\Iaratta, representing the Birth of Venus;
and others, by Ciro Ferri, representing the Seasons. The
V z'lla-Rzgﬁ‘inella, belonging to Prince Luciano Bonaparte, is
delightfully situated; and many persons suppose Cicero’s
Villa to have stood in this vicinity. Not far hence are the
remains of a small Theatre, and the ruins of the ancient

1

398 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. IX.

Tusculum. T he Villa-Aldohandini, called the Belvedere, is
ﬁnely situated; and contains Frescos by the Cav. d’Arpino,
and some curious Water-VVorks.

The Inn at Frascati is a tolerably good one.

PALESTRINA.

Palestrina, the ancient Prceneste, is somewhat above
twenty miles from Rome; and merits notice, on account of
the Temple of F ortzme, erected here by Sylla; and after-
ward repaired and embellished by Adrian; of which there
are considerable remains; though the modern Town is
built on its foundations. This Temple seems to have con-
sisted of two parts; the higher being called Fortuna Prre—
nestina ,- and the lower Fortzma Primigenia. The building
altogether must have been vast and magniﬁcent: and here
was found a curious lVIosaic Pavement, which VVinkelmann
supposes to represent the arrival of Menelaus and Helen in
Egypt *-

ALBANO.

The distance from Rome to Albano is fourteen miles;
and the road so good that, by setting out early, we managed
to go and return in one day; which is desirable, because
the Inn at Albano does not furnish comfortable bed-rooms.

Having already given some account of the Via Appia,
which leads to Albano, I shall now content myself with
saying that, on the left, just before entering that town, we
passed what is denominated tlze Tomb of Ascanius; though
supposed to be that of Clodius. Albano, situated between
Castel Gandolfo and Aricia, stands 011 tlze site quompey’s
Villa, named Albanum Pompeii. Remains of an Amphi-
theatre, a Reservoir, and a. Praetorian Camp, erected, per-

* It is practicable to go from Rome to Palestrina, see. the
objects best worth notice there, and return the same day.

CHAP. Ix. ENVIRONS 0F ROME-éALBANO. 399

haps, by Domitian, may be traced here: but the object best
worth notice in this town is a small Illuseum, belonging to
Sig. Guiseppe Carnevali; which consists of sepulchral Mo-
numents, found under a bed of lava, in the vicinity of the
ancient Alba-Longa. The shape of each of these sepulchral
Monuments is that of a vase; and within each of the Vases
was found a small cinerary Urn of tmu-cotta, containing
ashes and bones, and made (as it is conjectured) in the pre—
cise shape of the huts ‘of the aboriginal inhabitants of the
spot. Each cinerary Urn exhibits unknown characters; and.
these sepulchral Monuments likewise have Doors with
curious Fastenings. The cinerary Urn was placed in the
centre of each Monument ; and encircled with small terra-
cotta Vessels (one to hold the sop for Cerberus, others for
the Acqua lustrale, wine, oil, bread, incense, &c.); a Lamp,
like those of pottery used now in cottages; a Stile passed
through a Canceller; Knives, and a Lance. After seeing
this Museum, Travellers who have three hours to spare
should proceed, through a beautiful and shady Path, to
the hill which commands the Lago—Castello, or Lake of
Albano; which is the crater of an extinct volcano, nearly'
six miles in circumference; and famous for particularly
large and ﬁne eels. CasteZ-Gandogfb stands on the top of
the hill; and a beautiful VValk leads down to the Lake;
where, in the water, remains may be seen of the ancient
Alba Longa. Here, likewise, is a subterraneous Canal,
called the Emissarz'o, one of the most extraordinary works
of the ancient Romans; and said to have been made during
the siege of Veii, in obedience to the Delphic Oracle. It
measures about one mile and a half in length, and appears
quite perfect. Another Path, to the left of Castel-Gandolfo,
leads back to Albano; and the Ilexes which shade this
walk are some of the largest in Italy*. The Garden of

* Persons who do not choose to walk, may hire a donkey for

400 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. 1x.

the Villa-Barberini, at Castel-Gandolfo, comprises the Ruins
of Domitz'an’s Villa,- and on the outside of the Gate of
Albano, leading to Aricia, is an ancient Tomb, on the left,
called that oft/2e Curiatz'z'; though there does not seem to
be any ground for this assertion.

The air, both at Albano and Aricia (one mile distant),
is cool and healthful during summer; and the country
beautiful: tolerable private lodging-houses may be pro-
cured at each place; and a public carriage goes three times
a week, during summer, from Rome to Albano; the fare,
for going, being ﬁve pauls, and the same for returning.

I will now close this Chapter with what seems to me the
present character of the Romans.

This people, taken collectively, neither possess the mild-
ness of the Tuscans, nor the good-humoured buﬂ'oonery of
the Neapolitans. The nobility seldom trouble themselves
to attain much erudition; but are polite and very kind to
Foreigners. Gentlemen belonging to the Church and Law
are usually well—informed: it is, however, remarkable that
the most learned of these are not, generally speaking,
Romans by birth. Tradesmen of the ﬁrst class seldom
impose on foreigners; but the populace are frequently
prone to exaction, passionate, and sometimes revengeful:
they likewise retain much of their former haughty cha-
racter; and the inhabitants of Trastevere, said actually to
descend from the ancient Romans, are not only brave to
ferocity, but so proud of their ancestors that nothing can
induce them to match with a person who does not boast the
same origin.

A gentleman told me he lodged in the house of one of
these Trasteverini, a Barber by trade, and wretchedly poor,

three pauls, including the buona-mano of the man who leads it.
The Albano-Cicerone expects four or ﬁve pauls; and the Cice-
rone at the Emissario two, if he ﬁnd lights.

CHAP. 1x. ROME. 401

when his daughter was addressed by a wealthy and re-
spectable German: but, notwithstanding these advantages,
the lover received a rude and positive refusal from the
Blother of the girl. th acquaintance, surprised at this
behaviour, asked the mother why she acted so impru-
dently?—-“ Your daughter” (continued he) “ is wholly un-
provided for; surely, then, you ought to rejoice in an op-
portunity of uniting her to a rich and worthy man.” “ Re-
joice in uniting her to a Foreigner—a Barbarian!” (ex-
claimed the woman..) “ No:-——and were my daughter
capable of cherishing so disgraceful an idea, I should not
scruple to plunge a dagger into her heart.”

402

CHAPTER X.
NAPLES.

Country between Rome and Naples—Gensano—Velletei-
Cora —-Ponti~ne M arshes— Terracina --—Fondi — I tri—
Cenotaph of Cicero—M0lay-—Gaé’ta—ﬁlintnrnum—Ga-
rigliano—S. Agata— Capua—Naples—Situation of that
city—Bay—Ancient Light-houses—Size and population
ofNaples— Villa-Reale~—Studii Publiei—Quaclrangle—
Gallery of ancient Sculpture—Apartments upstairs—
Palazzo—Reale—Chiesa di S. F erdinando—Castcl quovo
-—Castell0 dell Uovo—Chiesa di S. Illaria del Part0—
di S. Brigida—di S. Giovanni (le’ Fiorentini—di T172—
coronata—della Pieta‘ de’ Torchini—di S. Maria della
Nuova —— di Monte-Oliveto —- (Ii Gesz‘e Nuovo — (li S.
Chiavra—di 8. Giovanni JIIaggiore—del Salvatore——
di S. Domenico JIaggiore—dello Spirito Santo—di S.
Maria delta Sanitd—Di S. Giovanni a Carbonara—Di
S. S. Apostoli—Arcivescovado—Liquz'ﬁcation of the blood
of S. Gennaro—Chz'esa di S. Filippo JVeri—Di S. Paolo
ﬂIaggiore—di S. ﬂIaria blaggiore—di S. Pietro a‘
M ajella—Cappella diS. Severo—Chiesa dellaszziata—
di S. Maria del Carmine—(ti S. ﬁlartino (le’ Certosz'ni
—-Castello di S. Elmo—Palazzo—Berio—Albergo (le’
Poveri— Theatres— Promenades—Marhet built by the
French—Monmnent to the memory 'ofEustace— IVater—
Climate—Societg———Hotels, and Lodgi 71g’-]l0?t8€S—C]l(l—
meter of the .Neapolitansw—List of Objects best worth
notice, as they lie contiguous to each other.

BEFORE I enter upon a description of Naples, I will give
a short account of the country through which we passed,
on our way thither.

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 403

The road to Albano has been already described; I shall
therefore say nothing on this subject; but merely observe
that Travellers, going to Naples, might easily see every
thing worth notice at Albano, by making a stop of three
hours and a half at the lastmamed town, which they must
necessarily pass through on their way.

Aricz'a, one mile distant from Albano (as has been al-
ready mentioned), is beautifully situated on the V z'a Appz'a ,-
and contains a handsome Church. Four miles hence is
Gensano, pleasantly placed near the Lake of Nemi, in a
salubrious climate, and a country which produces good
wine: near this village is the site of the ancient Lavinium ,-
and not far distant, on the sea-shore, lies Pratica, the
ancient Laurentum, where fEneas is said to have landed,
when he came to Italy. Six miles from Gensano is Velletri,
once a considerable town belonging to the Volsci, and
celebrated for being the country of Augustus, whose family
resided here; though it is supposed that he was born at
Rome. The Palazzo-Lancellottz' at Velletri is now con-
verted into an Inn *, which contains thirty beds, and par-
ticularly ﬁne water Jr. The situation of this inn is de-
lightful; and its marble staircase merits notice. The Post—
house likewise is a good Inn. Nine miles hence, but not in
the high road, lies Cora, an ancient town of Latium, which
contains ruins of two T emples, the one consecrated to Her-
cules, the other to Castor and Pollux: and persons who have
leisure would do well to visit them. From Velletri to Torre
de’ tre Ponti, on the Pontine Marshes, the country is pretty;

* The Albergo Reale.

rt Wholesome water cannot be procured between Velletri and
Terracina; and therefore Travellers usually take a supply from
the former town. ' ,
D D 2

I

4045 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x.

and on a height, not very distant from the road, stands
Piperno, anciently Privermtm, a Volscian city 9*.

Between Tre Pontif and Terracina lie the Pontine
Marshes (Paludi Pontine), computed to‘ be about twenty-
four miles in length, and varying from six to twelve miles
in breadth. Appius Claudius seems to have been the ﬁrst
person who undertook to drain them : Cethegus and Caesar
continued the work; which, during the middle ages,w was
repaired by Cecilius Decius, at the command of Theod01ic.
Boniface VIII, was the ﬁrst Pope who began to drain these
noxious swamps. Martin V, before his accession to the
pontiﬁcal Chair, was employed to carry on the business;
and succeeded wonderfully, by making a Canal, called
Rio-Martino. The Princes of the House of Medicis, and,
after them, Sixtus V, made new Canals: succeeding Popes
followed a similar plan; till, at length, I’ius VI, nearly ac-
complished this benevolent work; forming 011 the founda—
tions of the Via Appia, which were long hidden under
water, a road justly esteemed one of the best in Europe;
and draining the swamps so judiciously as to render them
capable of being cultivated. French Engineers pursued
the same wise measures; and Pius VII, is at length putting
the ﬁnishing stroke to this Herculean labour; which has
so essentially puriﬁed a tract of country whose gales, in
former times, were fraught with death, that but little danger
is to be apprehended from travelling through it now, except.
during the prevalence of the dog-star.

I would, nevertheless, advise Travellers in general, and

* There is a post- -road from Velletri to Sermonetta (the spot,
according to some opinions, called l 175.1).1111, 'lles Tabermz),
Case-Nuovo, Pipemo, Maruti, and Ierraeina.

I Tre Ponti is a very bad inn; where, however, it would be
possible to dine. '

CHAP. x. NAPLES. ~ 405

particularly Invalids, neither to pass the Pontine Marshes
with an empty stomach, nor till after the sun has been up
an hour. The dew which immediately precedes sunset
should likewise be avoided; and the inclination to sleep,
which almost every Traveller feels while breathing this air,
should be strenuously resisted.

At one of the western extremities of the Pontine Marshes
is the mouth of the river Astura; and, beyond that, Capo
d’Anzio, the ancient Antium: while at the other western
extremity rises Monte Circello, the Cape of Circe, im-
mortalized by Homer. Beyond the Marshes, in a beau-
tiful situation, stands Terracina, the approach to which is
particularly ﬁne: it was originally built by the Volsci ; and
called by them Anxur; but the Greeks afterward called it
Traxina; whence comes the modern name of Terracina.
Here are considerable remains of antiquity: and persons
who have two leisure hours should inquire for the Cicerone,
who is always in attendance at the Inn, and accompanied
by him visit the Cathedral erected on the ruins of the cele-
brated Temple of J upiter Anxur, according to some opinions;
and according to others on the site of the Temple of Apollo.
Here are fine ﬂuted Columns, and a curious Vase, with an
inscription in honour of Theodoric, first King of Italy. On
the brow of a high hill above the Cathedral are ruins called
by some persons Tbeodoric’s Palace,and by others, who judge
from Virgil’s description, the Temple of Jupiter Auteur: but,
be this as it may, the only vestiges discernible now, are the
subterranean part, with a low square building above it. The
Temple of Jupiter Anxur was erected by order of the Consul
Posthumius, after the designs of Vitruvius Pollio. On the
way to this spot stand the ancient lValls ofAumur, remains of
Reservoirs, Tombs, é?) ,- and here likewise is a magniﬁcent
view of the Cape of Circe, and the Bay of Naples. The

406 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X.

Inn at Terracina ”" stands beyond the town, near t/ze ancient
Port, made by Antoninus Pius; which, though now choked
up with mud, is well worth notice. Six miles from Ter-
racina stands a building called Torre de’ Conﬁni; which
divides the Patrimony of S. Peter from the Kingdom of
Naples: and between Terracina and Fondi are two ancient
Tombs, and a Lake, the country about which is pretty.
Five miles beyond the entrance to the Neapolitan territories
is Fondz', a small town on the Via Appia, which constitutes
its principal street: it once belonged to the Aurunci, a
people of Latium; and, in the year 1534, suffered cruelly
in consequence of an attempt made, one night, by Hariaden
Barbarossa to seize the beautiful Julia Gonzaga, Countess
of Fondi, with a view of presenting her to the Grand
Signior. Julia, however, being roused from sleep by the
clamors of her people at the approach of the Turks, sprang
from her bed, leaped out of window, and escaped to the
neighbouring mountains: while Barbarossa, being thus dis-
appointed of his prize, revenged himself by pillaging and
destroying the town, and carrying many of its inhabitants
into slavery. Fondi exhibits considerable remains of Cy-
clopian walls f. The air here is deemed unwholesome.
Eight miles from Fondi stands Itrz', anciently Illamurm, a
large village also built on the Via Appia, in a country
abounding with vines, ﬁgs and lentisks, which last produce
gum-mastic. Here are remains of a Cyclopian tower. On

* This Inn may be called a good one, in point of size and ac-
commodations ; but its master is uncivil and imposing.

1- This style of building is called Cyclopian because it re-
sembles that of the Greek Cyclopian towers; which were com—
posed of smooth stones beautifully joined together without
cement. These Cyclopian walls are by some Authors attributed
to the Pelasgi.

can). 1: NAPLES. 407

the right, about a quarter of a mile from Mola, is an
ancient ediﬁce, in good preservation, supposed to be t/ze
Cenotaplz of Cicero, placed on the spot where he was mur-
dered, while endeavouring to escape from his enemies.
.Mola, the ancient Formz'ce, eight miles from Itri, is ap-
ploached by a load which commands beautiful scenery.
and contains an inn, called La, Vzlla dz' Czcerone, which Is
lalge, comfo1 table, and charmingly situated * ; and exhibits
in its Garden Ruins of what is denominated t/ze Villa-For-
7222'a7mm ; but probably that Villa was further removed from
the sea. Mola commands a ﬁne view of Gae'ta, ﬁve miles
distant, and, according to tradition, founded by ZEneas in
honour of his Nurse, Gajeta. Persons who have leisure
would do well to employ a few hours in seeing this town;
which contains ten thousand inhabitants, and some an-
tiquities that merit notice. Its Port was either constructed,
or repaired, by Antoninus Pius: and the Baptistery of its
Cathedral is adorned with a basso—relz'evo bearing the name
of Salpion, an Athenian sculptor, and representing Ino,
consort of Athamas, King of Thebes, sitting on a rock
and hiding one of her Children in her bosom, to save
it from its Father’s fury. Here likewise on the summit
of the hill, above the town, is a building called Torre
(Z’Orlamlo, and supposed to be the Mausoleum of Mu-
natius Plancus, the Founder of Lyons. But to return
to the high road. Six miles from Mola are consideraﬁle
remains of an Aqueduct, a T lzcatre, &c+; which pro-
bably belonged to the ancient town of Mintumum : and
close to these ruins ﬂows the Garigliano, anciently the

* There are two other inns at Mola, T he Pust-kousc, and The
Albergo Beale.

1- In order to obtain a good View of this Theatre, it is ne-
ccssary to get out of your carriage, and walk round to the back
part of the building.

.‘v:

408 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X.

Link ,- and, in former times, the boundary of Latium;
which is now called the Campagna di Roma*. Several
ancient Tombs are discoverable between Mola and Min-
turnum. Crossing the Garigliano on a bridge of boats, we
proceeded to S. Agata,- where the Inn, though not large, is
rendered comfortable by the civility of its master. ,8. Agata
is pleasantly situated near Sessa, a small town supposed to
be the ancient Sucssa Auruncorum, to which there is a bean-
tiful Walk, over a magniﬁcent Bridge, from the inn at S.
Agata. The Via Appia passed through Suessa, where
there are other antiquities. The road from S. Agata to
Capua, sixteen miles distant, traverses rich vineyards and
corn-ﬁelds. The approach to Capua is handsome; but
the modern town, built on the banks of the Volturno, an-
eiently Volturnus, and about one mile and a half distant
from the Ruins called ancient Capua, is, judging by the
report of Strabo and Florus 1L, very unlike the latter; as
instead of being one of the most splendid cities of Europe,
it is ill—built, dirty, and devoid of any object particularly
worth notice. The road from Capua to Naples, a distance
of ﬁfteen miles, is one continued garden, but exhibits no
view of the bay, and scarce any of the city.

The Via Appia is kept in excellent condition throughout
the Ecclesiastical territories: but, near S. Agata, and
within a few miles of Capua, proper care has not lately
been taken to replace loose stones. Between Capua and
Naples the road is excellent.

* The whole of what is now denominated 115(le , between the
Liris and‘ the extremity of Calabria, appears to have been, during
the reign of Nero, called Jill/gnu Garcia.

1“ These Authors describe Capua as particularly magniﬁcent.
Strabo says, it derived its name from Cuput, because it “as one
of the capitals of the world; and Florus ranks it with Home

and Carthage.

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 409

Naples, in Italian Napoli, seems, at ﬁrst sight, to be
universally considered as the most captivating city of Italy;
owing to its immense number of inhabitants, magniﬁcent
quay, and beautiful situation: this ﬁrst impression, how-
ever, sometimes wears off; while the bad taste which per-
vades almost every building, induces scientiﬁc Travellers to
prefer Rome, even in her present mutilated state, to all the
gaiety of Naples. This latter city is so ancient that it seems
scarcely possible to pierce through the clouds of obscurity
which envelop its origin: Tradition, however, reports that
it was founded by an Argonaut, thirteen hundred years
before the Christian aera; and afterward peopled and en-
riched by Greek colonies from Rhodes, Athens, and Chal—
chis. It anciently bore the name of Part/zenope; an ap-
pellation bestowed by the Phoenicians, in consequence of
its charming situation. Near Parthenope stood another
city, called Paleopolz's, from being so old that its origin was
ascribed to Hercules: and when Parthenope was destroyed
by her jealous neighbours the people of Cumae, and after-
ward rebuilt in obedience to an oracle, the new city was
called Neapolis, to distinguish it from the old one, called
Paleopolis, till, at length, both were joined together by
Augustus. Naples, however, still retained her Grecian
manners, customs, and language; and even to the present
day retains them, in several parts of her territories. This
city is built on the acclivity of a tufo mountain, at the ex-
tremity of a Bay nearly thirty miles in diameter (called, by
the ancients, Crater Sinus), and sheltered on the right by the
Promontory of lVIiseno, and on the left by that of Sorrento:
while the lofty island of Capri, rising in its centre, acts like
an enormous lVIole to break the force of its waves. Nothing
can be more magniﬁcent than the city of Naples when
viewed from this bay, whence all its buildings present them-
selves to View, rising amphitheatrically, till crowned by the

410 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x.

sombre Castle of S. Elmo. Stretching to the Promontory
of Sorrento, on one side, lie Portici, Resina, Torre del
Greco, .Torre del Annunziata, Vesuvius, Pompeii, Castel-
a—mare and Vico: and extending to the Promontory of
Miseno, on the other, Pozzuoli, Nisida, and Baia. The
bay of Naples was once much larger than it is at present;
as appears from the situation of two ancient Light-houses;
both of which now, are actually in the heart of the city.
Ruins of the most ancient may be seen behind the church
of S. Onofrio de’ Vecchi; the other stood on the site of
Gesu-Nuovo. Naples is nine miles in circumference; and
contains nearly three hundred and eighty-two thousand
inhabitants: but the only parts of this large city calculated
to arrest the attention of Foreigners are the Strada—Toledo,
the Largo del Palazzo, and the Chiaja, which comprehends
a public Garden, called the Villa Beale, and considerably
more than half a mile in length; extending, on the margin
of the bay, from the Chiatamone toward the Grotto of
Posilipo. This garden is adorned with luxuriant trees,
shrubs, ﬂowers, and modern statues; and in its centre stands
the celebrated antique Group, called Il Taro Farnese;
which was originally brought from Rhodes to Rome, and
removed thence to Naples: it represents Amphion and
Zethus, the sons of Lycus, King of Thebes, tying Dirce by
the hair of her head to the horns of a Bull; and is supposed
to have been formed from one solid block of marble, by
Apollonius and Tauriscus, about two hundred years before
the Christian aera. This Group, being cruelly mutilated,
was restored by Bianchi ; and the Bull alone remains com—

pletely antique ”“1

* According to some opinions Amphion and Zethus are repre-
sented as endeavouring, by command of Antiope, their mother,
to seize the bull, and set Dirce free.

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 411

Among other objects of interest at Naples are the fol-
lowing.

Studii Publici. This University was erected by the Vice-
roy F erdinando Ruiz de Castro, Count de Lemos, accord—
ing to the designs of M. G. Fontana; and opened in 1616,
by Don Pedro de Castro, son and successor to the Count.
During 1790, Ferdinando I, removed the University to the
Convent of Gesu Vecchio; and converted the ediﬁce built
by the Count de Lemos, into a royal Museum; which is
now enriched with the antiquities found at Minturnum, an-
cient Capua, Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabiae, Nuceria, and
Paestum; together with the princely collection of paintings
that once adorned the Palace of Capo di Monte: and this
Bluseum, to which his Neapolitan Majesty has given the
name of Barbom'co, may now be considered as the ﬁnest in
Europe, with respect to Grecian antiquities.

The Quadrangle contains a colossal statue of Alexander
Severus—ditto of Flora—ditto of the Genius of Rome—
and ditto of Urania: and the Staircase is adorned with a
Lion in Carrara marble, and two Statues in Greek marble,
taken from Herculaneum. Surrounding the Quadrangle
are the Academies of Sculpture, Painting, and Architecture,
and the apartments appropriated to antique Statues, Sac.

First division oft/2e Gallery of ancient Sculpture. No. 14,
Bust of Ptolemy Soter—15, Statue of a Warrior seated—
17, a Gladiator—~19, an equestrian statue of a Roman War-
rior—20, a Bust from Herculaneum— 22, ditto -- 23, a
statue called Pyrrhus, from Herculaneum—27, an Amazon
on horseback—29, a wounded Gladiator ! l — 30, a bust of
Plato, from Herculaneum —33, statue of a Wrestler,
changed into a Gladiator by the sculptor who restored it ! l—
34, a Gladiatorll—35, another \Vrestler, changed into a
Gladiator by the sculptor who restored it “—36, a Gla-
diator ! 1—37, 21 Bust of the Emperor Gallienus, from an-
cient Capua ! l— 38, statue of Jove, in terra-cotta, from

 

4:12 TRAVELS ON THE CONTiNENT. CHARX.

Pompeii ! l—40, bust of Marcellus ! l——-41, statue of a young
Roman, from Herculaneum—LLS, a Consul, from ditto—44,
a dead Amazon—46, a young Lady of the Balbi—family,
from Herculaneum ! l —48, the Mother of Balbus, from
Herculaneum—51, a young Lady of the Balbi—family, from
ditto ! l—52, bust of Cicero—53, statue of Marcus’Nonius
Balbus, from Herculaneum—55, a Bust in Greek imarble ! l
—56, a statue of Euterpe, from Herculaneum—58, Juno in
terra-coita, from Pompeii ! l

Second division (ftllé’ Gallmy. 61, an equestrian statue
of lVIarcus Nonius Balbus, jun. in Greek marble, from Her-
culaneuin ! l ! l—62, an equestrian statue of Marcus Nonius
Balbus, sen. in Greek marble, and likewise taken from Her-
culaneum; but, being found in a broken state, it has been
restored l l l -— 65, a statue of Cybele seatedﬂ66, group of
Apollo with a Swan l l—67, statue of Jupiter Serapis, from
Puteoli l l—68, Bacchusi69, group of Ganymede with the
Eaglell — 70, ditto of Hercules and Iole—71, statue of
Ceres —73, Mercury —— 75, Hercules — 76, Chastity, from
Herculaneum—7 7, bust of a young Herculesl! —— 78,
a Priestess, from Herculaneum —— 79, Minerva 80, a
Priestess of Diana, from Herculaneum — 81, a colossal

 

bust of Alexanderll—SQ, statue of Ceres—84, colossal
bust of a River God—S5, ditto—87, group of a Satyr and
a Youth 11—98, bust of a Vestal, from Herculaneum~ 89,
statue of fEsculapiusll—QO, bust of the Indian Bacchus,

from Herculaneum—Ql, group of Bacchus and Cupid l l—
92, the celebrated colossal Hercules of Glycon, found in
Caracalla’s Baths, and deemed one of the finest statues
existing ! l ll —— 93, group of Venus victorious and Cupid,
from, ancient Capual l ~94, bust of Cybele, from Hercu-
laneum—95, statue of Juno — 96, bust of Minerva, from
Herculaneum —97, statue of Minerva in the Etruscan
style, from Herculaneum l — 98, group of Faunus and the
infant Bacchus ! l-99, colossal bust of a River God—[02’

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 413

ditto of Arianna—IOS, statue of Diana-Lucifera— 106,
hermes of the Indian Bacchus—107, ditto of Neptune, from
Herculaneum— 109, a colossal statue of Antinous in the
character of Bacchus ! l—113, a statue of Juno—114, a
hermes of Jupiter Ammon, from Herculaneum ! ! —— 115,
a statue of Bacchus ! l -— 116, a bust of Alexander, from
Herculaneum ! l

T lzz'fd division off/1e Gallery. 118, a lustral ﬁght, found
in the temple of Isis at Pompeii l l — 119, statue of Agrip—
pina, the mother of Nero, seated ! l !*—120, another lustral
Font, found in the temple of Isis at Pompeii ! l —121, a
statue of Britannicus, from Herculaneum — 126, Antonia
the younger—127, bust of Galba 128, a colossal bust of
Titus ! !~ 129, bust of Otho—132, a statue of Marciana,
the sister of Trajan l l—133, bust of Tiberius—134, a statue
of Vitellius, from Herculaneum !! —— 136, colossal bust of
Antoninus Pius ! l—138, statue of Lucilla—139, bust, from
ancient Capua—MO, a statue of Domitian-144, a bust in
Greek marble — 147, a colossal statue of Claudius seated,
from Herculaneum l l —148, a bust of Commodus—MQ, a.
statué of Trajan, from lVIinturnum l [—150, a bust of Lu-
cius Verus—151, Statue of ditto l l —— 153, a statue of Cali-
gula, from Minturnum 11—154, a colossal bust of Tiberius
—155, a magniﬁcent Basin of Porphyry, which served as
the lustral Font in the temple of fEsculapius!!—156, a
colossal bust of Caesar ! l—157, Statue of ditto—159, statue
of Marcus Aurelius ! 1—160, bust of Adrian lI—161, a statue
of Lucius Verus ! l—163, a colossal statue of Augustus

 

* Agrippina seems to he represented at the moment when told,
that her unnatural son dooms her to death. The mild, pathetic,
deep despair, expressed throughout the Whole of this charming
Statue, is wonderful ; and proves that Sculpture, when carried
to its utmost pitch of excellence, can move the passions quite as
much as does the ﬁnest poetry.

 

414 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x.

seated, from Herculaneum ! l— 164, a bust of Caracalla—
165, a small statue of Nero, when young !-——167, ditto!
Hall of Flora. 168, a colossal statue of Flora, found in
Caracalla’s Baths I ! !! (according to some opinions this duf—
d‘oeuvre of the Grecian chisel does not represent Flora, but
Hope, or one of the Muses) — 169, the Torso Farhese, in
Greek marble, supposed to represent Bacchus !!!—-—, 170, a
basso—rz'lz'eoo representing Bacchus intoxicated 1—171, frag-
ment of a Statue from ancient Capua, supposed to have been
a Psyche, and attributed to Praxitelesllﬂ 172, and 173,
Columns of verde antico with an Ibis upon each— 174, a
basso—rz'lievo representing Orpheus, Eurydice, and Mer-
cury ; and supposed to be very old Greek sculpture—175, a
Basso-rz'lz'evo, from Herculaneum —— 176, Bassi—rz'lz'evz', one
of which represents Scylla, the famous Promontory of Ca-
labria— 177, torso of a Youth— 178, a basso-rilz'evo of
Helen, Venus, Cupid, Paris, Sac. l——1 79, another Torso.
Hall of Apollo. 180, a colossal porphyry statue of Apollo
in his theatrical dress! —— 181, bust of Faustina— 182, a
statue of Isis !—183, a bust of Vespasian— 184, a Column
from Pompeii— 186, a Phrygian Slave— 187, a Tiger
in Egyptian granite—188, and 189, Columns of oriental
alabaster, from Herculaneum — 190, Apollo, in basalt !
—191, and 192, Columns of oriental alabaster, from Her-
culaneum —— 193, a Phrygian Slave—194, a Tiger-195, a
Column from Pompeii—196, a Goat in rosso antico—197,
bust of Marcus Aureliusl—198, statue of Ceres, ﬁnely
draped—199, bust of the Father of Marcus Aurelius——
203, statue of Diana of Ephesus, in oriental alabaster and
bronze! —— 205, a Column surmounted by a small ﬁgure of
Isis, from Pompeii --—207, and 208, a Basin of Bigio, with
its stand, from Pompeii — 209, and 210, small Columns of
giallo antico, one of which is surmounted by a small head
of the Indian Bacchus, all from Pompeii—21 1, an Egyp-

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 415

tian Priest, in basalt ! —213, and 214, small Columns, and
an Egyptian idol, from Pompeii— 215, and 216, another
Basin, with its stand, from Pompeii — 219, bust of J unius
Brutus ! ——220, a small statue of Meleager, in rosso an-
tico!

Hall of 2726 Illuses. 224, a large and beautiful Vase of
Greek marble, adorned with Bassi-rz'lz'evz' relative to the
education of Bacchus; and, according to the inscription it
bears, executed by Salpion, the Athenian—228, a statue of
Clio, from Herculaneum ! —- 229, a small statue, in terra-
cotta, representing an Actor masked, and dressed for the
stage, from Pompeii H —230, statue of Terpsichore, from
Herculaneum !! — 231, Mnemosyne, from ditto l —— 232,
Apollo seated—233, Minerva l—234, Melpomene, from
Herculaneum—235, a small statue in tm'ra-cotta, of an
Actress, masked and dressed for the stage, from Pompeii !!
——236, a statue of Erato, from Herculaneum ll—241, sta-
tue of Urania from ditto l—24n3, a Basso-rz'lz'evo represent-
ing seven female Figures, who appear to be dancing—244,
statue of Euterpe, from Herculaneum ”—245, Calliope,
from ditto—248, Thalia, from ditto ”—249, a small statue
of Apollo, from Pompeii 1—250, a Basso-rz'lz'evo, representing
three female Figures and one Mani—251, statue of Poly-
hymnia! This apartment likewise contains several cinerary
Urns.

Hall of tile Venuses. 254, statue of Adonis, from ancient
Capua—255, statue of Venus, attributed to Praxiteles, and
called Venere Callipz'ga, the rival of the Venus de’ Medici;
there is, however, an unpleasant expression in the counte—
nance of the former, from which the latter is exempt!!!—
256, group of a Love and a Dolphin —— 260, statue of
Venus—262, Cupid, supposed to be an ancient Copy from
the celebrated Cupid of Praxiteles ! — 263, Venus— 265, a
Group from Herculaneum ——« 266, a marine Venus—273, a

416 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X.

small statue of Venus seated, from Pompeii—276, an Her-
maphrodite !

Hall of Hercules. 280, a Hermes from Herculaneum—
28] , ditto of Euripides from Herculaneum—284, a bust of
hiarcus Brutus—287 bust of Caius Marius—290, a hermes
of Homer l—291, ditto of Socrates! q, 5‘

Hall of Atlas. 292, Atlas supporting the celesti'ﬂig‘lobe!
—293, and 294-, two lustral Fonts, from Pompeii l—297,
bust of Antisthenes l—298, statue of Homer, from Hercu-
laneum l—299, bust of Eschines, from Herculaneum—SOO,
bust of Periander, from ditto—301, bust of Lycurgus—
302, ditto of Euripides—303, ditto of Vane—304, statue
of a Sibyl—305, bust of Apollonius Tyanaeus—306, ditto
of Solon—307, ditto of Seneca—308, ditto of Zeno, from
Herculaneum—309, ditto of Anacreon-310, statue of a
Philosopher, from Herculaneum ! !—-311, bust of Demo-
sthenes, from ditto—316, bust of Zeno—317, statue of a
Female, resembling Niobe l—318, ditto of Herodotus l—
319, ditto of Lysias—320, the same subject—321, bust of
Euripides—322, ditto of Sophocles—323, a small statue of
Cicero, from HerculaneumVl—324u, a bust of Carneades—
326, ditto of Posidonius ! l—328, ditto of Archimedes, from
Herculaneum— 329, a statue of Aristides, found in Her-
culaneum, and deemed one of the choicest master—pieces of
the Grecian chisel! ! ! l—330, a bust of Socrates, from Her-
culaneum.

Apartments containing bronze Statues, cS'c; c/zz'cjly found
in Hereulaneum, and Pompeii *1 Among these are a bean-
tiful Horse in Corinthian brass—a statue of Augustus I—a
ﬁne Head of a Horse—a bust of Antinous—Frugments of
four Horses—a statue of Bacchus, being the only one, in

* The inner apartment is generally locked, unless Visitors
desire to have it opened; a request never denied.

Fm
’~ {vi

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 417

bronze, found at Pompeii—a bust of a Female with move-
able eyes—a drunken Faun reposing on a skin of wine !—
Mercury seatedll—two \Vrestlers—a sleeping Faun—a
small equestrian Statue supposed to represent Alexander
and Bucephalus—the Isiac Tables found in the Temple
of Isis at, Pompeii—Busts of Plato, Scipio, Seneca, and
Ptolemy. _

Apartmmn‘s 211) sz‘az'rs. On the landing-place there are
three doors; and that, on the left, leads to the rooms where
the Papyri brought from Herculaneum, 82c. are unrolled.
Though all these scrolls are so much scorched as to resemble
tinder, yet some of them (about four hundred) have, by a
most tedious process, been opened; and about ninety were
found in a legible state. Among these are, fragments of a
Latin poem, relative to the war between Anthony and
Octavius—Epicurus upon Nature—a work by Polistratus
—fragments of a work by Colotos—Philodemus upon Rhe-
toric—and works which bear the names of Demetrius, Car-
niscus, Chrysippus, &C. The number of scrolls brought to
the Museum is said to amount to about seventeen hundred;
but, of those not yet operated upon, about one hundred only
seem sufﬁciently perfect to be capable of expansion. Thirty-
nine years after the discovery of Herculaneum a considerable
number of scrolls of Papyrus, owing to an excavation made
in a garden at Resina, were discovered in a house supposed
to have belonged to Lucius Piso.

T/zc middle—door leads to the Library, which contains an
hundred thousand printed volumes, including several of the
ﬁfteenth century; and a large collection of precious Manu-
scripts; among which are those of S. Thomas Aquinus, and
the Aminta of Tasso. Here likewise is the Wzio of the
Madonna, illuminated by Giulio Clovio, bound in gold, and
decorated with bassi—rz'lz'evi! and another book, called, the

E E

418 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x.

Flora, which likewise contains clzgfs—d’oouwes in miniature
painting!

Antiquities found in Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabice, Capri,
ac. First room. Kitchen Furniture, consisting of bronze
utensils, many of them lined and inlaid with silver; marble
mortars; a gridiron; a variety of elegant bronze mOulds for
pastry; a portable bronze stove; boilers; saucepans; frying-
pans; 8w.

Second room. Scales and Weights, the latter elegantly orna-
1nented*; a great variety of fantastic Lamps; a Lanthorn,
made with horn instead of glass; Candelabra, some of which
are particularly:elegant; beautiful Steelyards; Sic.

T/zz‘rd room. Sacriﬁcial Vases; a drinking—Cup in the
form of a horse’s head; sacriﬁcial Knives; a Brush, sup—
posed to have been used in sprinkling holy water, and like
what the Roman Catholics use now for the same purpose Jr;
two Couches for the gods, used at the festivals called Looti-
sfcrnia, and composed of bronze inlaid with silver! a bronze
Altar; two Chairs for the priests; bronze Tripods, one of
which is particularly elegant; Vessels for incense; a Basin
of bronze inlaid with silver; and a variety of other vesSels
used in heathen temples.

Fourth room ,- rz'glzt side. Various pieces of Furniture

* The pound—weight of Magna Graacia appears to have been.
like the present pound of Naples, between ten and eleven ounces:
and the ancient steelyards (if I may so call balances made of
bronze) resemble those now used at Naples in shape, though
far superior in beauty.

'f “ Every ancient Temple contained a vase ﬁlled with holy
water ; and placed, it is supposed, near the entrance : and with
this water every person who came to solemn sacriﬁces was
sprinkled.”——See POTTER‘S ANTIQUITIEs or CiREECE,

 

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 419

required in ancient Baths; among which are Knives to
scrape the skin, and elegant Essence-Bottles: a Child’s Toy
representing a Carriage; ancient Greek Armour; a Clock,
or Bell, for maiking time , another Toy, representing at Cal.
F ﬁll room- “gilt szde. Ink-stands with remains of ink;
Styles, Pens of ceda1-wood,a Case f01 the styles Tablets;
Letters for stamping bread; which must have been used
in a manner so like printing that one wonders such an
invention should not have occur1 ed to the Ancients: Bronze
l\Iir1o1s; chirurgical Instruments, but no Lancets; Opeia-
tickets f01 the boxes and the partene (the latter being
numbeied to correspond with the numbels on the seats at
the theat1es); Instruments of music, namely , the Cy \tl um,
Cymbal, single Flute, and double Flute; Bells for Cattle,
p1 ecisely like those which are used at the present day , Glass,
some of which is clear and good; Dice, some of them
being loaded; Household gods; a curious portable Stove;
Bronze Door-cases; Nails, Screws, Locks, Keys, Latches,
Bolts, Hinges, 8L0. These rooms likewise contain Bridles,
Stirrups; another Clock; a Mosaic Table with beautiful
Feet from Pompeii; Rings, Necklaces, Ear-rings, Bracelets,
Pins for the hair, Ornaments, called Bulla’, worn by young
Pat11cians, till they were allow ed to assume the Toga; silve1
Cups,q uauce1s, and Spoons, but no Forks.

* By asking permission of the Director it is easy to obtain a
sight of the Cabinet of Gems, gold Ornaments, &c.; found in
Herculaneum and Pompeii. This Cabinet contains a Cammeo
said to be the most precious work of its kind in existence; and
representing, on one side, the Nile under the character of Abund-
ance; the instrument for measuring its waters; the Sphinx of
the Nile, and two ﬂying Zephyis , and, on the reverse side, the
head of Medusa. Here likewise are Necklaces, Ear- -rings, and
gold Ornaments of almost every description , a beautiful ﬂying

1:1: 2

 

420 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X.

Apartments containing the pictures. F irst room. S. Fran-
cesco and S. Girolamo, with the Madonna and our Saviour,
executed by the old Neapolitan school—the Salutation, by
ditto—the Magdalene, by Andrea Vaccaro—S. Sebastiano,
by Spagnoletto l—the Madonna, our Saviour and S. John,
by Vaccaro—S. Peter after having denied our Saviour,-by
Carlo Maratta—the murder of the Innocents, by Vaccaro—
S. Carlo Borromeo, by Carlo Maratta—S. Girolamo, by
Spagnoletto—two small Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa; and
two, by Niccolo Poussin.

Second room. The Salutation, by Scipio Gaetano—a
copy of the illadonna delta Scdia, by Giulio Romano l—a
ﬁne head of Anna Bullen—the Holy Family, by Carlo
Maratta~ an Eccc Homo, by Bronzino.

T/zird room. The Holy Family, by Schidonel—the
Adoration of the lVIagi, by Benvenuto Garofalo—the death
of S. Francesco, by Lanfranco~Pope Alexander VI, by
Sebastiano del Piombo—Head of an old man, by Rubens
—a Picta, by Annibale Caracci l—Giulio Clovio, painted
by himself—the Holy Family, by Sebastiano del Piombo—
the same subject, by Andrea del Sarto l—a dead Christ, by
Correggioll—the Madonna, by Carlo Dolci—the Holy
Family, by Filippi Lippi—a Pieta‘, by Agostino Caracci l

Fourt/z room. The Holy Family, &c. ; school of Raphael
—an Eccc Homo, by Correggio ! l !——the l\Iarriage of S.
Catherine, by ditto !——-the Madonna and our Saviour with
a rabbit, by dittoll—the hIadonna and our Saviour, by
Leonardo da Vinci—S. John, by ditto ! ! l—a Landscape, by
Claude Lorrain l—an Angel, by Schidone ! l—a Head, by
Giorgione ! — ditto by Giovanni Bellino—a Guardian Angel
shielding a Child from evil, by Domenichino l l !— Our
ﬁgure of Victory; and several other choice paintings; two
Loaves, a Honey-comb, Fruits, other Eatables, Seeds of various
kinds; 840. 840.; all burnt to Cinders.

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 421

Saviour on the Cross, by Benedino Gaccio—the Madonna,
our Saviour and Angels, by Tintoretto—a Head, by Van-
dyck—two colossal Paintings, by Correggio—Lucretia, by
Parmigianino l—Rinaldo and Armida, by Annibale Caracci!
~—-an Infant Jesus, by Guido—Vespucio, the Discoverer of
America, by Parmigianino—Hercules between Virtue and
Vice, by Annibale Caracci !-—S. Girolamo, by Guercino—
the Resurrection of our Saviour, by the Cav. d’Arpino.
[27?]: room. Charity, by Schidone ! l !-—-a Portrait, by
Vandyck—Danae, by Titian ! ! l—Portraits of Bramante and
the Duke of Urbino, by Andrea del Sarto l—Portrait of a
Grandee of Spain, by Rubens—the Magdalene, by Titian
-P0rtrait of Columbus, by Parmigianino—Venus, a Faun,
&c.; by Annibale Caracci!

 

a Portrait, by Vandervest—
two Children laughing, by Parmigianino ! ! l—the Circum—
cision, by Benvenuto Garof'alo l—Our Saviour on the Cross,
by Albert Durer; and a painting, by Gherardo delle notti.

Sz'xt/z room. A Portrait, by Raphael !-—the Holy Family,
by ditto l—Leo X, between Cardinals Passerini and Bembo,
by ditto! l—the Madonna and our Saviour, by ditto ! !—
portrait of a Lady, by ditto—a full length portrait of Car-
dinal Passerini, by ditto—the Madonna, Elizabeth, our Sa-
viour and S. John, by ditto ! ! l—the Holy Family, by Giulio
Romano—S. Peter, by Guercino—the lVIagdalene, by ditto
— the last Judgment, designed by Buonaroti, and coloured
by one of his Scholars l—two Heads, by Rembrandt—a ﬁne
Picture, by Titian.

Seventh room. Two Pictures, by Gherardo delle Notti—
two Battle-Pieces, by Tempesta, and a Pz'cta‘ of the Caracci-
school.

Eight/1 room. S. Girolamo, by Domenico Antonio di Fiori
—the Madonna and our Saviour, by Andrea del Sarto—
the fall of Simon Magus, by Ludovico Caracci; and our
Saviour on the Cross, by Marco di Siena.

 

422 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.X.

Apartments containing sepulcizral Grecian Vases ,- (it.
The Pavements of these rooms were taken from Hercula-
neum, Pompeii, Stabiae, 8C0. ; and are particularly beautiful.
The collection of Vases, is highly interesting. Those found
in the tombs of the Rich are light-coloured, and exhibit
paintings which usually represent mythological subjects:
those found in the tombs of the Poor are dark-coloured, and
quite plain. T he ﬁrst room contains a Table from Pompeii,
with beautiful Feet; and a Vase, the painting on which
represents Orestes tormented by the Furies. Some of the
most interesting paintings on the Vases in the second room
are, the Sepulchre of Agamemnon — Hercules stealing the
Tripod of Apollo—and an ancient Repast. A Widow
bewailing the death of her husband is likewise a common
subject on these urns. The Vases in the third room exhibit
paintings of Hercules killing the Centaur—an Egyptian
Ceremony—81c. T be jbnrz‘lz mom contains models, in cork,
representing the inside of two ancient Sepulchres; one of
which exhibits a corse in the centre (with a piece of money
in its mouth, and a lachrymatory on its breast) surrounded
by lamps, vases for the aqua lustrale, wine, oil, incense, &c.;
and a dish for Cerberus’s sop. The other, which is the
precise representation of the inside of a Tomb found at
Poestum, contalns a painting (the subject of which is a
Combat); four vases, a dish for Cerberus’s sop, and the corse
placed in the centre, with arms and armour by its side. This
room likewise contains the. model of an ancient public
Cemetery at Naples. In f/zefﬂ/z room are several Vases
embellished with paintings, which appear to represent
\Vidows sacriﬁcing; and two others, on the ﬁrst of which
is the story of Cadmus; and on the second the tomb of
Agamemnon; Electra and Orestes being on one side, near
the tomb; and on the reverse side [Egisthus and Clytem—
naestra in the act of marrying. The subjects of some of the

 

(HAP. x. NAPLES. 4:28

paintings on the Vases in the sixth room are; Hercules
slaying the Sicilian King; with a beautiful ancient car 011
the reverse side of the V ase—Achilles dragging Hector round
the walls of Troy—the Olympic games—the same subject
repeated—an ancient Repast, particularly curious, because it
exhibits the manner in which the Ancients drank—Hercules
in the garden of the Hesperides, with a tree, and a serpent,
twined round it, very much like the modern representation
of the Garden of Eden—Penelope in a car, and the gods
looking down upon her; together with a painting of Pulcz'-
mlla, dressed as he now dresses on the Neapolitan Stage,
except that instead of a half-mask, he has one which entirely
covers his face. Here likewise are two ancient drinking
Cups; together with a small, but extremely beautiful Vase,
on which is written, “ The Lucretia.”

The lVIuseo-Borbonico is usually open to the public
every day, festivals excepted, from eight in the morning till
two in the afternoon; and Foreigners usually give, to each
Custode, from two to six carlini, according to the size of
the party he attends, and the trouble he takes in explaining
things: Foreigners, however, are not expected to repeat
these fees every time they visit the Museum *.

Palazzo-Reale Jr. This ediﬁce, erected by the Count de

* Persons who purchase F INATI’S excellent account of the
gallery of sculpture are not expected to give any fee below
stairs, except two carlini to the Custode of the inner room of
Bronzes.

T It is necessary to have an order for seeing the Palazzo-
Reale, at Naples; the Reale Site, at Resina; the Reale Site, at
l’ortici; the Reale Site, at Capo-di-Monte 5 the Reale Sito, at
Caserta, and the Reale Site, at S. Leucio. These orders must
be signed by the Lord High Steward; and Foreigners who
apply for them pay one piastre. None of these royal residences,
however, are worth seeing, except the palace at Naples, and that

at Caserta.

 

424‘ TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X.

Lemos, according to the designs of the Cav. Fontana, to
whose taste it does honour, contains magniﬁcent apartments
handsomely furnished, and enriched with ﬁne Pictures,
namely; Tobias, his Son, and the Angel, by Guercino—
Susanna in the‘Bath, by Ludovico Caracci—the Descent
from the Cross, by Danielle da Volterra l—the same subject,
by Annibale Caracci—Atlas, by Guido— Charity, by ditto
———Cupid and Psyche, by Gherardo delle notti—Charity,
by Schidone—an Ecce Homo, by Correggio—the Madonna
of Monte-Casino, by Raphael—and S. Peter and S. Paul, by
ditto. This palace likewise contains a Hall hung round
with Portraits of the Viceroys of Naples, by Massimo and
Paolo Matteis; and a handsome Chapel, with an Altar of
agate, lapis lazuli, and other precious marbles. The apart—
ments of Prince Leopoldo contain some of the best works
of Salvator Rosa—a sleeping Venus, by Annibale Caracci
——the Madonna della Pace, by Guido; and other works,
by great masters.

Clzz'esa dz" S. F crdz'nando. This church is richly adorned
with marbles; and the Ceiling of the Nave, the Cupola,
and its Angles, are embellished with the best frescos of
Paolo h'latteis. The Statues of David and hIoses, in one
of the Chapels, are by Vaccaro; and the Picture which
adorns the High Altar is by Solimena.

Castel-iVuoz‘o. This fortress, begun ill 1283, according
to the designs of Giovanni Pisano, but not completed till
1546, contains the Arsenal, and a curious triumphal Arch,
erected in honour of Alphonso of Arragon.

Castcllo (1011’ U :10. This was once a Villa belonging to
Lucullus; but an earthquake separated it from the main
land; and \Villiam I, second King of Naples, built a palace
here. It derives its name from its shape.

C/zz't’sa (Ii S. ﬂfm'ia. (Ivl Pm'fo. The ground on which
this edifice stands, was given, by Frederic I I, of Arragon,
to his Secretary, Sannazaro: and behind the high altar is

 

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 425

the Tomb of that great Poet, by Poggibonzi, one of Buo-
naroti’s scholars. The ornaments are too numerous; but
the composition is good; and the Bassi-rz'lz'evz', allusive to
the Piscatory Eclogues, and other writings of Sannazaro,
are ﬁnely executed. On the sides of the monument are
statues of Apollo and 1Alinerva, now called David and
Judith; and 011 the top is the bust of Sannazaro, with his
Arcadian name, Aclius Sz'nccrus, placed between two weep-
ing Genii. The inscription,

“ Da sacro cineri arcs I’liC i/le ﬁlaroni
,

Sincerus Jlusa pmxilnus, ut lzzmulo,”

is by Cardinal Bembo.

C/zz'esa (Ii S. Brz'gz'da. Here is the Tomb of Giordano,
and a Cupola painted by that distinguished a1"'st.

C/zz'esa (12' S. Giovanni de’ Fz'orentz'm'. This ediﬁce, built
by a scholar of Buonaroti’s, is said to be a ﬁne specimen of
architecture.

Citiesa di l’Incoronata. Here are rémains of Paintings,
by Giotto.

C/zz‘esa dclla Pietd de’ Torclzi7zi. This church is adorned
with a ﬁne Altar-Piece, by Solimena; and a beautiful
Painting in the Lanthorn of its Cupola, by Giordano !

C/zz'esa (11' S. ﬂfarz'a della Nuova. Here are good paint—
ings, by Marco di Siena.

(71176ch dz' Monte-Olz'veto. Here are curious Statues, in
crefa-mtta, by hIodanino di hiodena, representing illustrious
Characters of the ﬁfteenth century: and that, called Joseph
of Arimathea, is, in fact, the portrait of Sannazaro. This
church also contains a picture of the Puriﬁcation, by
Yasari (who likewise painted the Sacristy) ; an Assumption,
by Pinturicchio; and one of the best Organs in Italy.

(711cm (1i Gcsz‘c quovo, 0r Trz'izz'td JIaggz'orc. This church,
one ofthe finest at Naples, was built according to the designs

426 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X.

of Novello di S. Lucano : it has suffered considerably from
earthquakes; by one of which the cupola painted by Lan—
franco was destroyed, the four Evangelists excepted. The
other Paintings in the present Cupola are by Paolo Mat-
tcis. Over the great door is a large Fresco, by Solimena,
representing Heliodorus driven out of the Temple! The
Chapel of the lVIadonna was likewise painted by Solimena.
,Thc Chapel of S. Ignazio is adorned with ﬁne marbles;
and the whole ediﬁce incrusted and paved with the same.
The Chapel of the Trinity contains a Picture by Guercino.

C/zz'csa (12' S. C/zz'ara. This was originally a Gothic struc-
ture, commenced, in 1310, according to the designs of Ma—
succio; who likewise built the Campanile; which, though
not completed as he purposed, is much admired in point of
architecture The interior of the church was adorned with
paintings by Giotto; till the Regent, Bario Nuovo, not un-
derstanding their merit, ordered them to be covered with
white-wash. During the year 1744, Vaccaro modernized
the nave; which was, at the same time, beautifully paved
with rare marbles, and embellished with a Ceiling painted
by Sebastiano Conca and Francesco lVIura: that part which
represents 8. Chiara putting the Saracens to ﬂight, is by
the last-named artist, and a work of great merit: he like-
wise painted the Picture that adorns the High Altar; near
which are two ﬂuted Columns; and, according to tradition,
that on the left was brought from Solomon’s Temple.

One of the Chapels contains a Picture by Lanfrancog
and, in another, some Paintings by Giotto are still remain—
ing. The Bassi—rz'lz'evi over the great door deserve atten-
tion*.

C/ziesa. (11' S. Giovanni ﬂIaggz'ore. This ediﬁce is built

3" This church likewise contains an elegant Latin Epitaph in
memory of a young Lady who expired on the day destined for

her nuptials.

 

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 4:27

upon the ruins ofa Temple which was erected by Adrian
to his Favourite, Antinous. It was consecrated by'Con-
stantine and S. Helena to S. John Baptist; and, in conse-
quence of its great antiquity, a Tomb which it contains has
been digniﬁed with the appellation of Parthenope’s Sar—
cophagus.

C/zz'csa dd Salvatore, or Gesz‘t Vecciu'o. Here are Paint-
ings by Marco di Siena, Francesco hinra, Solimena, SEC.

C/zz'csa di S. Domenico Illaggz‘ore. This church contains
an Annunciation, attributed to Titian; and a Flagellation,
attributed to M. A. Caravaggio. The Ceiling of the Sa-
cristy is adorned with a painting of S. Domenico in glory,
by Solimena ! The Convent belonging to this church for-
merly comprised the University; whose Professors taught
their Scholars in vaults underground.

C/zz'csa dello Spirito Santa. This is a ﬁne ediﬁce in
point of architecture; and contains a painting, by Gior-
dano, of the Madonna presenting a rosary to S. Domenico.

C/ziesa di S. Maria della Sam'hi. Here are good Pic-
tures, by Giordano, Bernardino Siciliano, Andrea Vaccaro,
and Agostino Beltrano. This Church leads to the Cata-
combs; as likewise do the Churches of S. Severo, and
S. Genaro de’ Poveri. The Catacombs of Naples are said
to be much larger than those of Rome: it is not easy, how-
ever, to ascertain this; it being impossible to penetrate far
into them. The general opinion seems to be that they
were, like the Roman Catacombs, public burial-places;
formed originally by excavations made in search of pozzo-
lana *.

C/zz'esa di S. Giovanni a Carbonam. This church merits

* No Invalid should attempt to visit these subterranean re-
positories; the investigation of which cannot be wholesome,
even for persons in health 3 all the unhappy sufferers during,r the
last Plague having been thrown in here.

 

4‘28 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x.

notice on account of containing a Gothic Tomb, immensely
large, of Ladislaus, King of Naples; another of Giovanni
Caracciolo, and some ﬁne Sculpture in the Vico-Chapel.
C/zz'csa (Ii S. S. Apostolz'. This church, erected on the
site of a Temple of Mercury and consecrated to the Apostles
by Constantine, was rebuilt during the seventeenth century,
and adorned with particularly ﬁne F rescos. ~The Ceiling
of the great Nave and Choir, the ﬁve Pictures on the walls
of the latter, and the Angles of the Cupola, are by Lan-
franco! as likewise are the Ceilings of the small Chapels,
and the large and beautiful Fresco over the great door.
The Cupola was painted by Benasca, and the Lunettes are
the work of Solimena and Giordano; the latter‘of whom
has likewise adorned the Cross with four paintings re-
presenting the Annunciation! the Nativity! the Birth of
the Madonna! and the Presentation in the Temple! The
High Altar is richly embellished with precious marbles;
and the Filomarini-Chapel, great part of which was exe—
cuted after the designs of Guide, by Calandra da Ver-
celli, is adorned with a beautiful .Basso-rz'lievo, by Fiamingo,
representing a Concert of Children!!! Opposite to this
Chapel is that of the Conception, richly adorned with pre-
cious marbles, and embellished with Paintings by Solimena
and Marco di Siena. '
zlrcivescozvado. This cathedral, commonly called La
Chiesa di S. Gennaro, the Patron-Saint of Naples, is a
Gothic ediﬁce, built by Niccolo Pisano: but the ancient
Cathedral, dedicated to Santa Restituta, was erected, during
the reign of Constantine, upon the site of a Temple of
Apollo. Charles I, of Anjou began the new Cathedral,
which was ﬁnished in 1299; but, being destroyed by an
earthquake, it was rebuilt by Alphonso I. The outside is
incrusted with white marble, and ornamented with two
columns ofporphyry. The inside is not splendid; though

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 429

supported by nearly an hundred Columns of Egyptian
granite, African marble, &c; taken from the Temples of
Neptune and Apollo. The Font, placed near the great
door on the left, is an ancient Vase of basalt, adorned with
the attributes of Bacchus (decorations not very appropriate
to a Christian Temple). The High Altar, made according
to the designs of Cav. Posi, is composed of precious marbles,
and adorned with two antique Candelabra of jasper. Under
the high altar is a subterranean Chapel, called IZ Soccmyyo,
which contains the body of S. Gennaro; and is supposed
to be a remaining part of the Temple of Apollo. This
Chapel is incrusted with White marble, adorned with co—
lumns of the same; and likewise embellished with Bassi—
7'z'lz'evz' in the arabesque style. Behind the tomb of S. Gen-
naro is a statue of the Constructor of this Chapel, Cardinal
Caraffa ale), attributed to Buonaroti. Adjoining to the
present cathedral is the ancient C/mrc/z of S. Restz'tuta ,-
which, though in part destroyed, still contains Columns
probably taken from the Temple of Apollo; an Assump—
tion, by Pietro Perugino; and some curious Mosaics of
the time of Constantine. In the modern Cathedral, and
situated opposite to the Church of S. Restituta, is the
Chapel of S. Gemzaro, called, I] Tesoro, and built in con-

* Cardinal Caraffa, Archbishop of Naples, is celebrated for
having melted Virgil’s horse. The arms of Naples being a
horse, there formerly stood one of bronze near the cathedral,
the Vulgar said it was cast by Virgil (whom they believe to
have been a Magician) ; and they entertained such superstitious
notions of the great efﬁcacy of this statue, in all distempers of
horses, that, when these animals were ill, they were brought from
every part of the kingdom, however remote, to be led round
the statue: therefore, in order to abolish so silly a custom, the
Archbishop melted down the whole of V irgil’s horse, the head
excepted.

 

480 TRAVELS oN THE CONTINENT. CHAP.X.

sequence of a vow, made by the city of Naples during the
Plague of 1526. The entrance to this Chapel is through a
magniﬁcent bronze door, adorned with ﬁne Columns of
rare marble, and Statues of S. Peter and S. Paul. The
interior of the ediﬁce is a rotunda, embellished with a
Cupola, painted by Lanfranco* !! and supported by forty-
two Corinthian Columns of brocatello ; between which, on
festivals, are placed thirty—ﬁve silver Busts of Saints, exe-
cuted by Finelli; and eighteen Busts, in bronze, by other
artists. The high altar is adorned with a Statue of S. Gen-
naro in the act of blessing the people; and likewise with a
silver Tabernacle, containing the head of the Saint, and two
small Vessels ﬁlled with his Blood, supposed to have been
collected, by a Neapolitan Lady, during his martyrdom.
Here also is a picture of S. Gennaro coming out of the
furnace, by Spagnoletto. The Painting in the large Chapel,
to the right of the high altar, is by Domenichino! as are
the Arches and Angles of the roof, and the Pictures in
three of the small Chapels.

The Ceremony of liquefying the blood of S. Gennaro
takes place three times a year; namely, in May, September,
and December; and is an interesting sight to Foreigners:
if it liquefy quickly, the joy expressed by the Neapolitans is
great; but if there be any unexpected delay, the tears,
prayers, and cries, are excessive; as the non-performance
of this miracle is supposed to announce some dreadful im-
pending calamity.

Clzz'esa (12' S. Fz'lzppo Neri (16’ P. P. Gerolinzz'7zi. This is
one of the handsomest churches at Naples: the outside
being cased with marble; the inside lined with the same,

* Domeniehino began to paint the cupola; but died soon
after the commencement of his work; which, from motives of
envy, was obliterated by Lanfranco.

W 39*“

Q ~

Q»
CHAP. x. NAPLES. 431

and divided into three aisles by twelve magniﬁcent Columns
of granite. The pavement is marble, and very elegant;
and the High Altar is composed of agate, sardonix, jasper,
lapis lazuli, mother of pearl, Szc. Here also are ﬁne Paint-
ings in the Angles of the Cupola; a celebrated, though
much damaged Fresco, above the great door, by Giordano,
representing our Saviour chasing the Buyers and Sellers
from the Temple; over the ﬁfth Altar, on the right,
S. Teresa with her Carmelites at the foot of a cruciﬁx, by
the same artist; and, on the opposite side, S. Francesco,
by Guido! the Chapel of S. Filippo Neri is richly de-
corated; and contains, in its Cupola, a painting, by Soli—
mena, which represents the Saint in glory; and on the
opposite side of the high altar is another Chapel, the
Cupola of which was painted by Simonelli, the subject
being Judith showing the head of Holofernes to his army.
The Chapel of S. Alessio contains a Picture by Pietro da.
Cortona; and in the Sacristy are Paintings attributed to
Guido, Domenichino, Spagnoletto, Sac. The Ceiling is by
Giordano.

Chicsa, di S. Paolo Maggiore. This stately ediﬁce stands
on the site of an ancient Temple, supposed to have been
erected by Julius Tarsus, Tiberius’s Freed-man; who con-
secrated it to Castor and Pollux. A considerable part of
the portico of this Temple remained till the earthquake of
1688; but, now, only two Columns and the Entablature
are entire. These noble vestiges of antiquity, two Bases of
other columns, and the Trunks of the statues of Castor
and Pollux (recumbent ﬁgures half buried in the wall) are
on the outside of the church; the interior of which is ele-
gantly incrusted with marble, and adorned with paintings
by Solimena, Massimo, Sic. The Frescos on the ceiling,
by Corenzio, were originally ﬁne; though now much in-

 

 

432 TRAVELS ON 'THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X.

jured; but that above the great door is in good preserva-
tion. The Sacristy contains the chefs-d’ceumes of Solimena;
and the Cloisters of the adjoining Convent are adorned
with antique Columns, and built upon the site of an ancient
T Ileatre, where Nero ﬁrst exhibited in public; because be
deemed it less derogatory to imperial grandeur to act with
the awkwardness of a Beginner in one of the Grecian cities,
than in his own Capital.

C'lzz'csa di S. Maria JlIaggz'orc. This church is said to
have been erected on the ruins ofa Temple of Diana; and
has a well painted Ceiling.

C/zz'esa (ii S. Pietro a‘ JVIajeZla. The Ceiling of the Nave
is ﬁnely painted by Calabrese!

Cappclla (U S. Severo. This chapel, the Mausoleum of
the Sangro-family, and called S. Maria della Pietz‘x, is a
singular edifice, richly adorned with rare marbles, and
surrounded with arches; each of which contains a Sar-
cophagus, and a Statue of one of the Princes of Sangro:
while attached to every adjoining pilaster is the tomb of the
Princess who was wife to the Prince in the arch; each of
the last named tombs being ornamented with a Statue re-
presenting the most conspicuous virtue of the lady in the
tomb. One of the most remarkable statues is that of
hiodesty, covered from head to foot with a veil; through
which, however, the features are clearly discernible. The
sculptor wasiCorradini. V ice undeceived is likewise a re—
markable work; it represents a Lian caught in a net, and
struggling to extricate himself, by aid of the Genius of
Good-sense! the sculptor was Queirolo. Here likewise is
“a dead Christ covered with a veil, which seems damped by
the sweat of Deathll The sculptor was Giuseppe San
Martino; and all these works peculiarly merit notice from
being original: as neither Greeks nor Romans seem to

- “as

can. x. NAPLES. , 488

have attempted showing the face and form with distinctness
through a veil. This chapel has suffered severely from
earthquakes.

Clzicsa della. Nunziata. This ediﬁce, which was de-
stroyed by ﬁre, and rebuilt in 1782, according to the de-
signs of the Cav. Vanvitelli, is one of the most chaste and
beautiful specimens of architecture at Naples. The columns
by which it is supported, forty-four in number, are all
composed of white marble. The Prophets in the Angles
of the Cupola are by Fischietti; to whose pencil they do
honour. The Pictures which adorn the High Altar, and
those of the Cross, are by Francesco Mura. A Chapel on
the right, near the high altar, is adorned with a beautiful
Pieta ; and another Chapel, near the great door, contains
a picture of the Madonna and our Saviour, and little
Angels, the last of which are ﬁnely executed. The Ceilings
of the Sacristy and Tesoro are painted by Corenzio; and
the Presses exhibit the life of our Saviour curiously sculp-
tured in wood, (some-parts being gilt) by Giovanni di
Nola.

Chiesa (12' S. Maria (16! Carmine. This church is richly
ornamented with rare marbles; and contains Paintings by
Solimena, Giordano, and Paolo Matteis.

C/zz'era (13' S. Martino de’ Certosz'ni *. I This church,
which once belonged to the magniﬁcent Certosini convent,
now the Asylum of military Invalids, was built after the
designs of the Cav. Fansaga, and is moresplendid and
beautiful than any other sacred ediﬁce at Naples: indeed

* The Church of S. Martino stands near the Castle of S Elmo,
on the hill, called Monte Vomeru, which rises above the city of
Naples. To persons who walk, the distance is inconsiderahle;
though, from the steepness of the ascent, and the almost innu-
merable steps which compose the i'ootwey, this walk is fatiguing.
The coach-mad is ('ii‘cuitmz», but good.

434 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.X.
a

it may vie with every church existing in the excellence of
its paintings and the value of its marbles and precious
stones. Above the principal entrance is a picture, by Mias-
simo, representing our Saviour dead, and attended by the
Madonna, the Magdalene, and S. John. The Ceiling and
upper part of the walls of the Nave were painted by Lan-
franco, except the twelve Prophets, by Spagnoletto, which
are particularly ﬁne I! and the ﬁgures of Moses and Elias
bylthc same artist. The Choir is beautiful; and exhibits
Paintings on the Ceiling, begun by the Cav. d’Arpino, and
ﬁnished by Berardino. The unﬁnished picture of the Na-
tivity, immediately behind the high altar, is by Guido, who
(lid not live to complete it: the other Pictures are by
lVIassimo, Lanfranco, and Spagnoletto; that of our Saviour
administering the Communion, (by Spagnoletto) and that
of the Cruciﬁxion, (by Lanfranco) are much admired. The
High Altar, made after the designs of Solimena, is splen—
didly adorned with rare marbles, and precious stones; as
likewise are the Altars of the Chapels. That, consecrated
to S. Bruno, contains a ﬁne Altar-Piece, 8:0. by lVIassimo
——anothcr Chapel is ﬁnely painted, by Matteis—another,
by Solimena—a’nother is embellished with three good pic-
tures, namely, S. John baptising our Saviour, by Carlo
Maratta! S. John preaching, by l‘vIatteis; and the dc-
capitation of the Saint, by Massimo. These chapels are
likewise rich in sculpture; and one of them contains a
strikingly ﬁne Bust, by Giuseppe San—luartino. T/IC’ Sa-
crisz‘y contains a Ceiling, beautifully painted by the Cav.
d’Arpino —— Presses ornamented with mosaics made of
wood, and executed in a masterly style by a German Monk,
in 1620—1 ﬁne picture of our Saviour on the Cross, the
Madonna, the Magdalene and S. John, by the Cav. d’Ar—
pino— S. Peter denying our Saviour, by DI. A. Caravaggio! !
wand our Saviour carried up the holy Stairs to the house

CHAP. x. NAPLES. 435

of Pilate, by Massimo, and Viviani. The Ceiling and
Archesof 1718 T 6807'0 are by Giordano” and above the
altar, which exhibits magniﬁcent precious stones, is a
painting of our Saviour dead, with the iVl-adonna, the
lwagdalene, S. John, Ste. 3. highly celebrated work, deemed
the master—piece of Spagnoletto ! l I T lze Council Hall con-
tains a Ceiling painted by Corenzio—the Doctors of the
Church, ten in number, by Paolo Fignolio~and the
Flagellation, by the Cav. d’Arpino ! l T be next /Ipartment
contains the history of S. Bruno round the Walls; with
sacred subjects on the Ceiling, by Corenzio! The Cor-
ridors of the adjoining Convent are composed of marble
supported by columns of the same; and the View from the
interior of this proudly situated ediﬁce is enchanting. Im-
mediately below the conventual Garden lies the immense
ﬂat-roofed city of Naples; whose streets appear like narrow
foot-paths; while the buzz of its inhabitants, who look like
pigmies, and the noise of the carriages, which seem no
larger than childrens’ toys, are with difﬁculty distinguish-
able. Qn one side is Capo di lVIonte, and the rich Nea-
politan Campania; on another rise the majestic mountains
of the Apennine, with Vesuvius in their front; while on
another lies the wide-stretching Bay of Naples, bordered
by Portici, &c. on the left, and Pozzuoli, Ste. on the right.
This stupendous View is seen to the greatest advantage from
that part of the conventual Garden called T 116 Belvedere *1

* The abominable Neapolitan custom of throwing dead
bodies, Without cofﬁns, into burial-places under the churches,
renders those which are most used as receptacles for the Dead,
dangerous to the Living.

Travellers who wish to visit the churches least objectionable
on the above-mentioned account should conﬁne themselves to S.
Maria del Parto—S. Martino—Trinita Maggiore—S. Chiara—S.

r r 2

a

436 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x.

Castcllo dz" S. Elmo. This fortress, formerly denominated
S. Ermo, and according to some writers, S. Erasmo, was
begun by the Normans; and is chieﬂy formed out of an
immense rock, said to be hewn into subterranean apart-
ments which extend to the Castello Nuovo. Charles V,
erected the citadel.

Palazzo-Bm'io. This noble ediﬁce contains a ﬁne col—
lection of Pictures, at good Library, and, in the Garden, a
celebrated Group of Venus and Adonis, by Canova *.

Albergo de’ Povcri. This immense and magniﬁcent
building (not yet ﬁnished) is an Asylum for Orphans and
Children whose parents cannot afford to give them the ad-
vantage of education. Here the boys are instructed in
reading, writing, drawing, engraving, the elements of the
mathematics, Sic. and the Girls in sewing, spinning, weaving
linen, knitting, and other things useful to the poor.

Naples contains several Theatres. The T eatro Beale dz'
San-Carlo, one of the largest and ﬁnest opera-houses in
Italy, was so nearly destroyed by ﬁre, during the year
1816, that nothing but the party-walls, and ﬂow; of the
building, remained: eleven months afterward, however,
this Theatre rose from its ashes, adorned with even more
than its original splendour; and exhibiting six rows of
boxes, (thirty-two in each row,) a partén‘e capable of ac-
commodating six hundred and seventy-four persons seated,
and above one hundred and ﬁfty standing; a stage, the
dimensions of which are immense: spacious corridors; ex-
cellent stairs; and an adjoining ediﬁce, called t/ze Ridotto,
which comprises ball-rooms, eating—rooms, and apartments
for gaming; the last being constantly open, night and day.

Domenico Maggiore—S. Maria (lel Pieté—S. Paolo Maggiore—

‘

S. Filippo Neri—S. Gennaro—the Nunziata, and the S. b.

Apostoli.
* Here the servants are interdicted from receiving fees.

 

c1131). x. N APLES, 487

The Teatro Beale del Fonda is another opera-house, smaller
than San-Carlo, but handsome. The Teatro de’ Fiorentz'm'
exhibits buﬂa operas and plays. The Teaz‘ro Nuovo is ap-
propriated to the same purpose. The Tcalro di San-Fer-
dindndo is larger than any other, except San-Carlo. The
T calm della Fenicc is very small, and exhibits musical
pieces and plays: and the Tcatra dz' San—Carlino, likewise
very small, is much frequented 011 account of Pulcz'7zella*,
who exhibits thei e, and IS a Charactel peculiar now, to the.
Kingdom of Naples, and apparently, of Grecian origin:
his performances ale highly interesting to Pei sons ac-
quainted with the Neapolitan dialect. The T eatro della
Fenice, and the T eatro (Ii San—Carlz'no, are usually open
twice, during twenty—four hours, namely, at ﬁve in the after-
noon; and again at ten at night. The Theatres Royal are
opened alternately; because the same singers, dancers, and
musicians, belong to both.

The principal Promenades are, the Villa Beale; the
Ciliaja ,- the Giardz'no Bottam'co, made by the French, and
lying in the way to the Campo Margo, also made by the
same nation; who likewise constructed a Road called, by
them, Strada-Napoleon, which extends from Naples to Capo
di Monte; and is a magniﬁcent and particularly beneﬁcial
work; as carriages which could not formerly be drawn up
the hill without the aid of four horses, now go constantly
with a pair; so that this beautiful drive is become, during
summer, the favourite airing of the Neapolitans. The
Road begun by Murat, but not ﬁnished, from Naples to
Pozzuoli, is also a delightful Promenade.

'Persons who have time to spare would do well to visit
the Market built by the French in imitation of an ancient
Forum Venalz'a ,- and adorned by a ﬁgure of Abundance in

* I n Neapolitan, Polerenella.

 

4:38 TRAVELS ON THE CON’I‘INEN‘I‘. CIIAI’. X.

its centre: (This market communicates with the Strada
Toledo.) British Travellers should likewise visit the Chapel
qfthe Crocellc, in the Chiatamone; where a Monument has
been lately erected to the memory of the Rev. John Chetwode
Eustace; the eloquent and animated Author of “ The Clas-
sical T our through Italy.” This monument is placed behind
the altar; and consists of a plain tablet of white marble; on
which, between two pillars, a female figure (perhaps repre-
senting Italy) stands in relief, leaning, in a pensive attitude,
on a tomb; and by her is a stark, in the act of devouring a
serpent. The inscription is in Latin, and ends with the
following lines.

“ Care, 'vale ! Patrice manet, ceternum. ue manebét
7

Te genuisse dccus, non tumulﬁsse dolor.”

Great care should be taken by Foreigners in order to pro-
cure good water, a scarce commodity at Naples: that of the
F ontana—lWedina, near the Largo del Castello, and that of
the Fontana di S. Pietro Martire, and its environs, is whole-
some; but persons who do not contrive to procure water
from one of these Fountains, which are supplied by an
aqueduct, incur the risk of being attacked with a dysentery,
or some other putrid disease.

The climate of Naples differs materially in different parts
of the city. Persons who wish for a situation congenial to
weak lungs, should reside in the Fouria. In the Largo del
Castello and its environs the air is tolerably soft: but in the
quarter of S. Lucia the vicinity of the sea, united with the
dampness occasioned by a tufo mountain, directly under
which the houses are built, renders the air dangerous to In~
valids, and not very wholesome even for persons in health.
The houses on the Chiaja are less dangerous than those in
the quarter of S. Lucia, because further removed from the
tufo mountain ; but their situation is too bleak for persons

W"

t
, .‘h i.
‘ $ «'3”

("n in). x. NAPLES. 439

aﬂ‘licted with tender lungs. Pizzo-Falcone is wholesome,
and not noisy; a peculiar advantage at Naples.

The society in this city is not deemed so good as at
Rome; neither is the Carnival so brilliant: but the Festival
of S. Maria Piedigrotto, on the 8th of September, is a sight
well worth seei11g*.

Here are several Hotels, and a considerable number of
private lodging—houses; among the former of which are;
lee Gran-BI etagna—T/ze C7 oceller— T/ze Vzlla dz' Londia
——T/ze Albee; g0 Beale—Tile Albergo del 8026— T he Wgo
di V enezza, and The V zlla di Roma.

The character of the Neapolitans appears to have been
mistaken by Travellers; who seem inclined to think the
lower classes of people cunning, rapacious, proﬂigate, and
cruel; and the more exalted ignorant, licentious, and re-
vengeful: this, however, is not, generally speaking, true;
for the common people are open-hearted, industrious, and
thOugh passionate, so fond of drollery, that a man in the
greatest rage will suffer himself to be appeased by a joke:
and though a Neapolitan sometimes does an injur ', from
the ﬁrst impulse of anger, he is not malicious. Those
among the common people who have mixed much with
Foreigners are expert in making bargains, and eager to
extort money ; but those who have lived chieﬂy among each

* On the eve of the Festival of Corpus Christi, the Magi-
strates of Naples give a concert of vocal and instrumental music
to the common People, in a long and wide street, which is ﬁtted
up for the occasion, with Galleries on each side; a Fountain in
the centre, adorned with evergreens and statues; and, at the
upper end, a handsomeTemple, in which the musicians are placed.
The street is brilliantly illuminated: and all these preparations
are made within the space of six hours. The concert begins at
eight in the evening, and ends at ten 3 and this entertainment is
called the Festa di Chiatamone.

 

54;.

440 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x.

other display no such propensities: and what seems to in-
dicate a good disposition is, that they all may be governed
by kind words; while a contrary language never fails to
frustrate its own purpose. Gentlemen of the church, law,
and army, are tolerably well educated: and in this middle
rank may be found as much true friendship, as much sterling
worth, and as many amiable Characters, as in any nation
whatsoever: neither are examples wanting, even among the
nobility, of talents, erudition, and moral virtue, though such
is the, nature of the Neapolitan Government, that persons
who possess power to distinguish themselves seldom dare
to exert it.

I cannot dismiss this subject without mentioning a pe-
culiar trait of charity we met with among the common peo-
ple. Our cook, by birth a Neapolitan, was married to a
young woman whom we hired, one summer, as our house-
maid; and, after having been with us a few weeks, she re-
quested permission to go and see her adopted child, who
was (she said) very ill. The word “ adopted,” surprised us
so much, that we inquired why a man and woman who
worked hard for their bread, and were both young enough
to expect a family of their own, had been induced to adopt
a child? They replied ; that the child was a foundling; and
therefore belonged to the Madonna; consequently, by such
an adoption, they ensured her blessing on themselves and
their own offspring: and, afterward, when we mentioned
this circumstance to our Neapolitan friends, they informed
us, that such instances of charity were by no means rare
among the common people *.

* Some writers have said that, among the common people of
Naples, there are forty thousand termed Lazaroni, from having
no home, and being consequently obliged to make the streets
their sleeping-place : this, however, is a mistake ; it being quite

anp. x. NAPLES. 441

I will now close my zit-count of Naples with a List of the
Objects best worth notice, as they lie contiguous to each
other.

Studii Publici — Palazzo Reale—Clziesa di S. Ferdinando
—— Castcl Nuovo —Castello dell’ Uovo—Clzicsa di S. Maria
(Id Pai‘to—C/zicsa di S. Brigida—C/ziesa di S. Giovanni de’
Fiorcntini—Clziesa (Ii l’Incoronata— Chiesa della Pieta‘ de’
T orc/zini — Cbiesa di S. Maria dclla Nuova— Clziesa di
Alontc-Oliveto ——C/2iesa di Trinita‘ Maggiore~Clziesa (12' S.
Cniai‘a—Clziesa (12' S. Giovanni Maggiore—Chiesa di 'Gesz‘t
Veccliio —- Citiesa, di S. Domenico Maggz'm‘e — C/ziesa dello
Spirito Santo—Chiesa di S. Maria della Sanitd—C/ziesa di
S. Giovanni a‘ Carbonara—C/ziesa di S. S. Apostoli—Arci—
vescovado—C/ziesa de’ Gerolimini—C/ziesa di S. Paolo Mag-
giorc—Clziesa di S. Maria Maggiore —— Chiesa di S. Pietro
a‘ Majella—Cappella di S. Sever0~ C/ziesa della Nunziata—
Clziesa di S. Maria dcl Carmine—Chew di S. Martino de’

Certosini—Castello (12' S. Elmo—Palazzo-Berio—Albergo de’
Poveri.

as rare to see the indigent without a bed at Naples, as in any
other city of Italy : the fact is that the Lazaroni sleep three or
four in one bed, paying a grain each to their landlord.

44%

CHAPTER XI.

ENVIRONS OF NAPLES.

Excursion to Baize ~Virgil’s Tomb —- Grotto of Posilipo——
Island of N isida — Pozzuol i — Cathedral—Pedestal adorned
with bassi—rilievi —— Temple of Jupiter Serapis—Piers of
the, ancient Mole—Monte Nuovo—Lucrine Lake — Lake
Abernus — Temple ofProseipine—Grotto of the Cumean
Sibyl— Nero’s Villa and Vapour Baths—Cecsar’s V illa—
Bait; —- Temple of Venus Camere di V enere — Public
Baths— Temples of Mercury and Diana Baianau Villa of
Marius—Piscini of Hortensius— Villa of Lucnllns — Pi-
scina Mirabile— Cape and Port ofjllisenam~Cento Ca-
merelle—Sepolcro d’Agrzppina—Amphitheatre quozzuoli
—-E£wursion to Cumee—Solfatara”Sepulchral Monuments
ofPuteoli—Cicero’s V illa——Arco Felice — Ancient Cumcc
— Grotto of the Sibyls Cumea and Cumana — Tempio de’
Giganti~Excursi0n to the Lake d’Agnano— Villa ofLu—
cullus—Baths of S. Germano—Grotto del Cane—Piscia-
relli—Astroni—Ercursion to Caserta ~Aqueduct—Palace
—Ancient Capua —Excursion by night to Vesuvius — best
Cicerone —Ea‘pense attending this emcursion — Hercule-
neum, how discovered —— description of that city — descent
into the Theatre—.Museum at Portici——Excursion to Pom-
peii —Destruction of Torre del Greco, ch. in l794~—Least
fatiguing method of seeing Pompeii—discovery of that city
—Excavations made by the French — Present appearance
ofPompeii—Objects best worth notice there—Customs and
manners of the llIoderns similar to those of the Ancients—
Excursion to Pet’stum—time employed in going—expense—
Cross road—great road —— Nacera— Cava — V iet-ri —- Sa -
lerno—Pa’stum ; its supposed origin— Walls, Gates, T cm-

 

(‘HAP x'. ENVIRONS or NAPLES. MS

ples, (Sc-— Sonnet —-—— Rodi—Convent of‘La Tri¢3itd~—Et ‘-
cursz'on by water to Sorrento~situation of that town——
Accommodations ——Antz'quitics -—— Climate—Description of
the Plain of Sorrento, (Sr. —— Character of tire Sorrentz'ncs
——Provz'sz‘ons ——Lodgz'ng—Izozcses———]l[assa —— Camaldoli, cS'c.
-— Castel-a—mare — C apri — Excursion to the Islands of
Procz'da and Isclzz'a.

I WILL now endeavour to give an account of the Environs
‘ . . . . . .3; .
of this City, which are peculiarly beautiful, and as peculiarly
interesting.

EXCURSION TO BANE.

We set out from Naples at nine in the morning in a close
carriage, which we hired for eight hours, to convey us to
Pozzuoli, and wait there, till we had taken the usual round.
\Ve then drove to the end of the Riviera di Chiaja, got out
of our carriage, and ascended from the Mergellina quarter
to a Garden, where, situated on the summit of the arch of
that entry to the Grotto of Posilipo which fronts that city,
stands Virgil’s Tomb.- its shape appears to have been a
cylinder, with a dome, supported by a square base, and ten
niches for cinerary urns: these, however, have disappeared;
as likewise has the bay-tree by which this sepulchre was
once overshadowed. Virgil’s tomb gave birth to four lines so
beautiful that I cannot forbear inserting them: their author
was asked, “ whether he would prefer Fame during life, or
Renown after death?” to which question he answered thus:

“ Virgili ad tumulum divini pnemia Vatz's,
Extendit cirz'clem laurea deusa comam.

Quid tibi defuncto hec prosit ?felici0r olim
Sub patulwfagi tegmine vivas eras*.”

* I was favoured, by a friend, with the following imitation
of these lines.

 

444': TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CRAP. xx.

The garden which contains this tomb commands a mag—
niﬁcent View; and in an arbour here, immediately above the
English burial-ground, Travellers frequently dine.

Returning to our carriage, we drove through the Grotto
ofPosz'lz'po *; drawing up the glasses while we passed that
part which is near Pozzuoli, and, at times, damp and un—
wholesome. Mention is made of this Grotto by Strabo,
Seneca, Pliny, &c.; but by whom it was formed seems un-
certain. At the entrance is a chapel; in the centre are two
large, funnels cut through the roof to admit light and air;
and‘suspended over the road are lamps always kept burning.
The length of the Grotto is computed to be two thousand
three hundred and sixteen feet, its breadth twenty-two, and
its height in the most lofty part eighty—nine feet. After
emerging from this singular cavern we passed the Island of
Nisz'da, formerly Nesz's, where Marcus Brutus had a villa;
and where now is the Lazzaretto ; and then, on arriving at
Pozzuoli (called, by the Greeks, Diceearclzz'a'f‘, and, by the
Romans, Pateolz',) we engaged a guide, ordered a boat for
Baiae, Ste. ; and a donkey to go round by land to the Lucrine
Lake : we likewise ordered the guide to purchase a couple
of torches for the subterranean part of our intended excur-
sion ; and, while the boat was preparing, visited the objects
best worth notice at Pozzuoli. The Cathedral, once a

The glorious plant that crowns the poet’s head

Still throws its fragrant shade o’er Virgil dead ;

But to the lifeless eye, th’ unconscious heart,

What pleasure can its fragrant shade impart? \

Far happier He when erst, at ease reclin'd,

Th' expansive beech his living form enShrin’d.

* I'Iau’a’x; 117’; Mar-7);, the ancient appellation given to this part of

the environs of Naples, means a cessation from sorrow : and no spot
can exhibit more cheerful beauty than does the hill of Posilipo,

1‘ Ataxia/Exist.

can. x1. ENVIRONS or NAPLES. 445
Temple consecrated to Augustus, exhibits large square
stones joined together without cement, and some remains of
Corinthian columns, all of which appear to have belonged
to the ancient ediﬁce. In the principal Piazza stands (1 Pc-
destal qfwlzz'tc marble, found in 1693; on which are repre-
sented Figures in 60530-7??in personifying the fourteen
cities of Asia Minor that were, during one night, destroyed
by an earthquake, in the reign of Tiberius; and re—built by
that Emperor. In the same Piazza is an antique Statue,
bearing the name of Q. Flavio Masio Egnatio Lolliano:
and not far distant is the Temple dedicated to the Sun, under
the name of Jupiter Serapz's;* a magniﬁcent ediﬁce erected
during the sixth century of Rome; but partly thrown down
and completely buried by an earthquake, till'the year 1750,
of the Christian aera ; when it was fortunately discovered by
a peasant, who espied the top of one of the columns a few
inches above-ground ; in consequence of which, an excava-
tion was begun, and the temple displayed to view, almost
entire: indeed, had those parts which were thrown down
by the earthquake been restored to their proper places, this
building would have exhibited the most perfect, and one of
the noblest vestiges of antiquity yet discovered—but, alas,
the Kings of Spain and Naples, instead of restoring, or even
leaving 'things in the state wherein they were found, have
taken away columns, statues, all, in short, that they deemed
worth removal: neither have they excavated sufﬁciently;
as the front of the principal entrance does not appear to be
yet unburied: enough, however, meets the eye to form one
of the most interesting objects imaginable. This temple is
an hundred and thirty-four feet long, by an hundred and

* This name is probably derived from two Hebrew words
denoting the burning ﬁre, or substance.
See PARKHURST’S HEBREW ancox, 7th edit. 8vo. p. 346.

 

446 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

ﬁfteen wide, its form being quadrangular. It was originally
surrounded with more than forty square apartments, two of
which were bathing-rooms for the priests. Four ﬂights of
marble steps led to the middle part of the ediﬁce, which was
sixty-ﬁve feet in diameter, and circular. Near the site of
one of these ﬂights of steps is a ring of Corinthian brass, to
which the victims destined for sacrifice were fastened: the
receptacles for their blood and ashes still remain; as do the
bathing rooms for the priests, which are nearly perfect: but
of all the Columns that adorned this Temple, three alone
have been suffered to continue in their original situation.
Not having time to visit the Amphitheatre of Pozzuoli,
we embarked in our little vessel, and examined #16 Piers of
the ancient lilole; a magniﬁcent work, supposed to have
been constructed by the Greeks, and repaired by the Roman
Emperors; and to which Caligula joined his Bridge of boats.
Then, leaving on the right lilonte Nuovo, (formed A.D.
1538, in forty-eight hours, by a volcanic explosion,)* we
landed at the Lucrine Lakeﬁ- between which and the Lake
Avernusi Agrippa opened a Canal of communication, form-
ing, of both, tlzc Julian Port. Hence, we proceeded to the
Lake Axial-nus, (the Tartarus of Virgil, described in the
sixth book of the fEneid, and once so noxious that if birds
attempted to ﬂy over it they dropped down deadﬁ.) “'e

* The earthquake which produced Monte Nuovo inguli'ed the
village of Tripergole, ﬁlled up great part of the Lucrine Lake ;
and probably destroyed the oyster-beds for which it was cele-
brated by the Latin Poets.

T It is said, by Pliny, that a Dolphin, during the reign of
Augustus, frequented this Lake, and was rendered so tame, by
a Boy, that he would sit upon the fish’s back, and actually cross
the Lake in this manner, from Baiae to Puteoli.

i Supposed to be the crater of an extinct volcano.

§ Ancient historians assert that no ﬁsh could exist in this Lake:

CHAP. x1. ENVIRONS or NAPLES. ~1 «147

observed, 011 its banks, tile ruins (gftlze Temple qurosnpine .-
and then walked, through a shady and beautiful path, to
the Grotto of the Cumean Sibyl ,- which led from Virgil’s
T artarus to the Cocytus, Acheron, Styx, Elysium, Sic.
Through this Cavern, (the Grotto of Posilipo in miniature,)
we walked, preceded by men carrying lighted torches, till
we came to what are called the Silgyl’s Bat/ls ,- which consist
of three small Chambers adorned with blosaics; but now
ﬁlled nearly two feet deep with water; so that we were
obliged to mount our donkey by turns, in order to penetrate
them: having accomplished this, we sent the donkey by land
to Bauli; rat-embarking ourselves, and rowing to Nero’s
Villa ,- where we landed again, to visit the Vapour Baths,-
which are, however, so intensely hot, that it is imprudent to
examine them from motives of mere curiosity. They are
used by the Neapolitans, during summer; and the water
here boils an egg in two minutes. On re-imbarking for
Baiae, we observed ot/zer Hot Bat/ls, which belonged to
Nero’s Villa; and the steps which led from that ediﬁce to
the sea; together with tile Ruins 9f Caesar’s Villa, situated
upon the north point of the Bay of Baiae. Here we again
quitted our boat, and walked to tlze Temple 9f Venus Geni-
trix' ,- a beautiful ruin, the outside of which is octagonal, the
inside circular. The Garden immediately behind this temple
contains Chambers called, Le Camere (Ii Venere, which ex-
hibit remains of stucco Ornaments ﬁnely executed; and
adjoining to these chambers are Ruins qf public Bat/ls.
Hence we proceeded to the temples 9f Mercmy, and Diana
Baiana ,- the ﬁrst of which is a circular ediﬁce, nearly per-
fect; with an aperture in its dome similar to that of the
Pantheon: the second is a ﬁne ruin; and appears to have

at present, however, it abounds with ﬁsh ; and many aquatic
birds not only ﬂy over it, but repose unhurt upon its bosom.

 

44:8 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

been hexagonal without; but, like the temple of Venus,
circular within. Some writers imagine these three temples,
as they are now called, made part of the public Baths.
Getting again into our boat, we saw the Villa of Marius, and
the Pz'scz'm' qf Hortensius; the foundations of which may
still be discerned under water; and then, re—landing at
Bauli, ascended to tile Villa of Lucullus,- where Tiberius
expired. The substructions of this Villa, and the, celebrated
Reservoir, called Piscz'na Mirabz'le *, consisting of forty-eight
piers, merit observation; as does the neighbouring Cape of
Misenum, whose harbour contained the Roman Fleet, com-
manded by Pliny the elder, when there happened that erup-
tion of Vesuvius which buried Herculaneum, Pompeii, and
Stabize. Misenum was the principal Port of the Romans
in the Tyrrhene sea; as Ravenna was in the Adriatic ;- and
from the summit of the hill on which stand the ruins of the
Villa of Lucullus we had a ﬁne view of the former Port, the
Stygian Lake, (for such, according to Virgil, is the Mare
morto, or third basin of this harbour,) and the Elysian
Fields, situated on the banks of the Mare morto. Returning
from the summit of the hill, we visited the Cenlo Camerelle,
supposed to have been a prison; and consisting of a large
number of small subterranean apartments vaulted, and lined
with plaster. After seeing what appears to have been the
Guard-rooms, we descended into the Vaults, by the aid of
torches; and then walked back to the Marina di Bauli;
observing, on our way, several remains of ancient Tombs;
and visiting lastly what is called Il Scpolcro (I’Agrippz'na ,-
though probably it was a Corridor of the Theatre which

* These were Reservoirs of puriﬁed water, for the use of the
Roman Fleet : and this water, from being puriﬁed ere it entered
the reservoirs, was not liable to become putrid when kept in
barrels.

emu». x1. Envmons er NAPLES. 449

belonged to her Villa; for, according to Tacitus, she was
privately buried, after having been killed by order of Nero;
and the identical spot which enclosed her remains is
unknown *.

Having refreshed ourselves with a cold dinner, which we
brought from Naples, we embarked for Pozzuoli; and, on
arriving there, ordered our carriage to be got ready, while
we visited the Anmhz'theaz‘re. This Ediﬁce has suffered
considerably from earthquakes; but is, nevertheless, better
preserved than any other ancient structure at Pozzuoli. Its
form is an oval of two stories high; its arena is about an
hundred and ninety feet long, by an hundred and thirty
wide; the walls of the building are composed of large square
stones; and the number of spectators it contained was forty-
ﬁve thousand. Near this spot is a subterranean Ruin, called
11 Laherz'hto dz' Dedalo ,- but more probably a Reservoir for
the water used in the Amphitheatref.

EXCURSION T0 CUMZE, Sac.

Again we left Naples at nine in the morning, in a carriage
hired for six hours: and, on arriving at the gate of Pozzuoli,

* Many persons extend this excursion, by visiting the Theatre
of .I'Uz'senum, of which part of the Proscenium, the Declivity for
Seats, and the Corridors remain; and by likewise visiting the
Grotto Tragonare, a vast reservoir under the Promontory, and
the Fish Ponds ofLucullus, under its western side.

1- Our expenses, during this excursion, were as follow.

Carriage, piastres, 3. Buona-mano to coaelnnan, carlini, 3.
Boat, with four oars, piastres, 3. Cicerone, piastres, 1. Temple
of Jupiter Serapis, carlini, 2. Baths of Nero, ditto, 4. Camere
di Venere, ditto, 2. Cento Camerelle, ditto, 2. Piscina Mira-
bile, ditto, 2. Donkey and Guide, ditto, 10.

It is not necessary to have a boat with four oars, unless the
party be large.

 

450 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP.XI.

engaged a. Cicerone, with whom we proceeded to the Sol/a-
tam ,- in order to see the process of making alum, vitriol,
and sal—ammoniac, from the volcanic substances found in
the crater. We then visited the sepulchral' Monuments of
Pateolz', which are situated on each side of the Via Consularis,
leading from Pozzuoli to Cumae; and continuing our drive
toward the latter place, we passed Cicero’s V z'lla, of which a
VVine-Cellar alone remains ; the stately porticos and spacious
gardens described by Pliny, being all swept away by the
hand of Oblivion. Cicero called this Villa The Academia,
having here composed his Academic Questions: and here
died the Emperor Adrian; to whose memory Antoninus
Pius erected a stately Temple to serve the purpose of a
tomb. Proceeding toward the Arco Felice, we saw an in-
teresting and picturesque view from the banks of the Lake
Avernus, comprehending Blonte Nuovo, the Temple of
Proserpine, the entrance into the Sibyl’s Grotto, the Lu-
crine Lake, with part of Baiae, lVIisenum, Capri, &c.; and
between this spot and the Arco Felice we discovered traces
of the Aqueduct which conveyed water to Cumae, and the
neighbouring Villas. The Arco Felice, or Gate of Cuma’,
served also for a Citadel and an Aqueduct,- and its summit,
if the day be clear, exhibits a ﬁne view of the Circean Pro-
montory, and the Islands of Ischia, Ponce and Ventoliani;
the last of which was the ancient Pandatarz'a, whither J ulia
was banished. Remains of houses may be traced in one of
the streets of ancient Cumae; and the Castle, which, judging
from the large stones that compose it, appears to be a Grecian
work, was in such good condition during the ﬁfth century,
when Alaric, King of the VVestragoths, subdued this country,
that he deposited the spoils of his conquests here, as a place
of strength. After examining this Castle, we ascended the
bill which hangs over the sea, and was, according to Virgil,
the spot where Daedalus alighted after his ﬂight from Crete,

CHAP. x1. ENVIRONS or NAPLES. 451

consecrated his wings to Apollo, and built a temple to that
god; of which, however, no vestiges remain: but under
what is supposed to have been the site of this Temple still
exists a Grotto, called that oft/w Sibyls Cumea and Cumana.
The entrance faces the east, and is adorned with a handsome
marble frontispiece. From the summit of this hill the
Acheron* is discoverable toward the south; and about four
miles northward stands the Torre d5 Patrz'a, on the site of
the ancient Lz'lemum, whither Scipio Afi'icanus retired, and
where he died. Cumae exhibits ruins of two Temples, one
of which is called Tempz'o cle’ Giganti, because some colossal
statues were found there-f.

EXCURSION TO THE LAKE D’AGNANO, &C.

VVe hired a carriage for four hours; drove to the village
immediately beyond the Grotto of Posilipo; inquired for
the keeper of the Grotto del Cane; and told him we were
going thither; ﬁrst, however, stopping at t/zeLago d’Agmmo,
once the crater of a volcano, as appears by its form; and
likewise by the volcanic substances that compose its environs.
On the banks of this Lake are some remains qfa Villa which
belonged to Lucullus, who opened a communication between
the sea and the Lake; converting the latter into a Reservoir
for fish. Contiguous to the ruins of this Villa are tlze
Vapour Bat/ls of S. Germano, frequented, during summer,
by persons afﬂicted with the rheumatism. Hence we pro-
ceeded to tile Grotto del Cane, the mephitical air of which
throws a dog into convulsions, extinguishes a lighted torch,

* The Acheron was the Palus Acﬁerusia of the Ancients, -
called, by Virgil, from the blackness of its water, Palus T ene-
brosa.

1~ To the Cicerone who attended us during this excursion we
gave only ten carlini.

G G 2

452 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

and prevents a pistol from going off: but the ﬁrst being a
cruel experiment, we contented ourselves with witnessing the
two last. Our next object was the Pz'sciarelli; a rivulet of
boiling water, issuing from the base of the cone of the SOI-
fatara, and, in distance, about a mile from the' Lago
d’Agnano. This water boils an egg in eight minutes, and
is strongly impregnated with alum and vitriol; the latter of
which preponderates to such a degree as to produce ink,
when mixed with galls. Every little aperture in the earth
round this hill exhibits sulphur crystallized, sal-ammoniac,
vitriol, &c. Having satisﬁed our curiosity here, we proceeded
to Astrom’, a romantic crater of an extinct volcano, now
converted into a royal hunting park. The crater is walled
round at its summit (to prevent the game it contains from
escaping), and computed to be about four miles and a half
in circumference. The interior part exhibits solid lava,
scoria, tufo, pumice, and other productions usually found in
active volcanos *.

EXCURSION T0 CASERTA, 8m}L

Caserta is about sixteen miles from Naples, and so near
to modern Capua that, by sleeping at the latter town, we
made this excursion on our way from Naples to Rome. On
arriving at Caserta we ordered a pair of fresh horses to take
us to the Aqueduct, which is about ﬁve miles further off;
and near three hours must be employed in order to see it
well, and return to Caserta. The hill we ascended on our
way, exhibits an extensive and beautiful prospect of the Cam—
pania Felice. On arriving at tile Aqueduct, the Keeper con-

* To the Keeper of the Grotto del Cane, and Vapour Baths,
we gave six carlini ; and to the Keeper at Astroni two curlini.

T It is not necessary to carry a cold dinner to Caserta, the inn
there being tolerably good.

CHAP. x1. Envmons or NAPLES. 453

ducted us along the top of part of that structure; showing
us the course of the 'water at one of the turrets. Hence we
descended through the passages of the two loftiest rows of
arches, and proceeded to the centre-arch, to read the in-
scriptions; afterward taking a more distant view of this mag-
niﬁcent work, which extends twelve miles in a direct line,
and twenty-six computing its sinuosities. Charles II I,
erected it, employing as his architect the Cav.Vanvitelli.
On our return to Caserta we visited the Palace, built like-
wise by Vanvitelli, at the command of Charles III; and
deemed, in point of size and architecture, the most splendid
royal residence existing: its form is rectangular; its length
seven hundred and forty-six feet, its breadth ﬁve hundred
and seventy-six, and its height one hundred and thirteen
feet. The great Portico or entrance to this ediﬁce is ﬁve
hundred and seven feet in length, and particularly mag-
nificent; so likewise is the great Staircase. The Vestibule
to the chapel, and the Chapel itself, highly merit notice;
and the latter contains, in the royal gallery, a ﬁne picture
by l\Iengs. The large Theatre is adorned with twelve
columns of basalt, taken from the Temple of Jupiter Sera-
pis, and may vie, in point of size and splendour, with several
of the public theatres of Europe: but the royal apartments
in this palace, though vast, and beautifully proportioned,
are so ill furnished as to be little worth attention. On our
way to modern Capua we passed through what is supposed
to have been the ancient Town; and observed a sepulc/zral
Monument on the left, and another on the right; the latter
being low, and of a circular form, with niches for cinerary
urns. The remains ()fﬂze Anqﬂzz't/zeatre likewise lie on the
right, close to the road; and the exterior Wall, the colossal
Busts in the key-stones of the arches, the three Corridors,
the four principal Entrances, the declivity for the Seats, the
Staircases and Arena, are all discoverable. Between this

454: TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

Amphitheatre and modern Capua are remains Qfan Arch,
supposed to have been one of the Gates of the ancient town;
which, if this be its site, was situated four miles from Caserta,
and one mile and a half from modern Capua, between the
rivers Volturno and Clanio.

EXCURSION T0 VESUVIUS.

Wishing to see 'a slight eruption of Vesuvius, which hap-
pened in November 1818, we hired a carriage to go to Re-
sina (ﬁve miles distant from Naples); took with us a basket
of cold meat, bread and wine, together with six torches";
and set out ﬁve hours before sun-set. When arrived at
Resina, we drove to the house of Salvatore, the best Cicerone
of the mountain; and after dismissing our carriage, and
giving directions that it should be ready again in seven
hours at the same place, to convey us home, we requested
Salvatore to provide us with mules, guides, and one chaise-(1‘-
porteur ,- and likewise to undertake to pay the guides himself;
that we might not be importuned for more than the proper
price, namely, each donkey and guide one ducat, and each
chaise-d—porteur, with eight men, six ducats. To the Cice-\
rone it is customary to give about ﬁfteen carlini-l‘. From
Resina to the Hermitage on Vesuvius our mules conveyed
us in two hours; and, after resting a short time, proceeded
with us for about half an hour longer; when we dismounted,

* These torches are two carlini each, if bought at Naples;
and three carlini each, if bought at Resina.

1‘ Persons who ascend and descend Vesuvius by day-light
usually give, for each donkey and guide, eight carlini; for each
chaise-zi-porteur, with six men, four ducats 3 and to the Cicerone
twelve carlini. Sometimes, however, six piastres are demanded
for a citaise-rE-porteur during the night, and four piastres during
the day.

cusp. x1. ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—HERCULANEUM. 455

and were either carried in the clzaz'se-d-pon‘eur, or walked up
toward the crater. This walk was extremely fatiguing, and
occupied a full hour: but, when we reached the little plain
on Vesuvius, our labours were richly recompensed by the
sight of ﬁve distinct streams of ﬁre issuing from two mouths,
and tumbling, wave after wave, slowly down the mountain,
with the same noise, and in the same manner, as the melting
Glaciers roll into the Valley of Chamouni: indeed, while I
contemplated this awful and extraordinary scene, I could
have fancied myself transported to the base of Mont Anvert,
had it not been for the crimson glare and excessive heat of
the surrounding scoria.

After resting ourselves some time, we descended, by a
path knee deep in ashes, to the spot where we had left our
mules; thence proceeding, on foot, till within a short
distance of the Hermitage; when we mounted the, mules
and returned to Resina.

It is advisable for persons who ascend Vesuvius to pro-
vide themselves with strong boots, and stout walking sticks;
unless they resolve to be carried the whole way in chairs;
which, though practicable, is expensive.

EXCURSION ’1‘0 IIERCULANEUM’, AND THE DIUSEUM AT
PORTICI.

Herculaneum was situated about ﬁve miles from Naples:
and the present descent into this entombed city is at Resina.
We took wax candles with us; because the Cicerone seldom
provides a sufﬁcient number: and we likewise put on thick
shoes, and wrapped ourselves up;'because the air of Her-
culaneum is damp, and the pavement wet in several places.
This city, according to Dionysius of Halicarnassus, was
founded by Hercules *. The Alexandrian Chronicle men-

* Perhaps founded in honour of the Sun; as the word Her-
cules appears to be derived from a Hebrew compound, meaning
universal ﬁre, and allusive to the attributes of the sun.

 

456 ‘ TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

tions it as having been built sixty years before the siege of
Troy; Pliny and Florus speak of it as a great and ﬂourish-
ing city; and some authors conjecture that it was the Capua
whose luxuries ruined Hannibal's army *. Dion Cassius
gives the following account of its destruction; which hap-
pened on the twenty-fourth of August, in the year seventy-
nine. “An incredible quantity of ashes, carried by the
wind, ﬁlled air, earth and sea; suffocating men, cattle,
birds, and ﬁshes, and burying two entire cities, namely,
Herculaneum and Pompeii, while their inhabitants were
seated in the theatres.” The people of H erculaneum, how-
ever, must have found time to escape; as very few skeletons,
and very little portable wealth, have been discovered in those
parts already excavated. Some quarters of the city are
buried sixty-eight feet deep in ashes and lava; others above
an hundred. This seems, from Dion Cassius, to have
been the ﬁrst great eruption of Vesuvius that the Romans
witnessed; though there undoubtedly were volcanos in
the adjoining country, from ages immemorial. The last
named author says, that the ashes and dust ejected by Ve-
suvius darkened the sun at Rome; and were carried by the
wind to Egypt: and Giuliani asserts, that during the erup-
tion of 1631, the ashes were carried to Constantinople in
such quantities as to terrify the Turks. The spot where
Herculaneum stood was not ascertained till the beginning
of the last century; but, about the year 1713, a peasant,
while sinking a well at Portici, found several pieces of
ancient mosaic, which happened to be at that time sought
for by the Prince d'Elbeuf, who was building a house in the
neighbourhood. The Prince, wanting these fragments of
marble to compose a stucco in imitation of that used by the
Ancients Jr, purchased, of the peasant, a right to search for

* The Via Appia having passed throne‘h it, is, I believe, one
reason for this conjecture.
f The ﬁrst coat of ancient stucco appears to have been made

f l

CHAP. x1. ENVIRONS or NAPLES. 4557'

them; on doing which, he was recompensed with a statue
of Hercules, and another of Cleopatra: this success en-
couraged him to proceed with ardour; when the architrave
of a marble gate, seven Grecian statues, resembling Vestals,
and a circular Temple, encompassed by twenty—four columns
of alabaster on the outside, the same number within, and
likewise embellished by statues, were the reward of his
labour: in short, the produce of these excavations became
considerable enough to attract the attention of the Nea—
politan Government: in consequence of which, the Prince
d’Elbeuf was commanded to desist; and all researches were
given up, till the year 1736; when Don Carlos, on be-
coming King of Naples, wished to build a palace at Portici ;
and purchased, of the Prince d’Elbeuf, his lately erected
house, together with the ground whence he had taken so
many valuable antiquities. The King now made an ex-
cavation eighty feet deep, and discovered buried in the
earth an entire city; together with the bed of a river which
ran through it, and even part of the water: he alsodis-
covered the Temple of Jupiter, containing a statue reputed
to be gold; and afterward laid open the Theatre, directly
over which the peasant’s well was found to have been sunk.
The inscriptions on the doors of this Theatre, fragments of
bronze horses gilt, and of the car to which they belonged
(decorations probably of the grand entrance), together with
a considerable number of statues, columns, and pictures,
were now brought to light: but, nevertheless, in the year
1765, not more than ﬁfty labourers were employed in
making these valuable excavations; in 1769, the number
was reduced to ten; and, in 1776, to three or four. Resina
tanciently Retina) and Portici being built immediately over
Herculaneum, the workmen could not venture to excavate
as they would have done had the surface of the earth been

of small pieces of brick, or marble, mixed with pozzolana and
lime.

458 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. crmr. x1.

less encumbered; consequently the plans of Herculaneum
and its ediﬁces are not accurate: it is, however, ascertained
that the streets were wide, straight, paved with lava, and
bordered with raised footways ; that the buildings are com-
posed of tufo and other volcanic substances; the interior
walls adorned with frescos, or stained with a deep and
beautiful red colour; the architecture Grecian, and ge-
nerally speaking, uniform. The rooms in private houses
were small, and either paved with mosaics, or bricks three
feet long, and six inches thick. It does not appear that
the generality of the people had glazed windows; though
some excellent plate glass has been found in Herculaneurn;
but almost every window seems to have been provided with
wooden shutters, pierced so as to admit light and air. The
most considerable ediﬁce yet discovered is a Forum, or
Chalcidicum. This building seems to have been a rectan-
gular court, two hundred and twenty-eight feet long,
and encompassed with a portico supported by forty—two
columns: it was paved with marble, and adorned with
paintings. The portico of entrance was composed of ﬁve
arcades, ornamented with equestrian statues of marble;
two of which, the celebrated Balbi, have been already de-
scribed. Opposite to the entrance, and elevated upon three
steps, was a statue of the Emperor V espasian; and on each
side a ﬁgure in a curule chair: in the wall were niches
adorned with paintings, and bronze statues of Nero and
Germanicus: there likewise were other statues in the portico,
This Forum was connected, by means of a colonnade, with
two Temples, in form rectangular; and one of them an hun—
dred and ﬁfty feet long; the interior part being ornamented
with columns, frescos, and inscriptions in bronze; and near
these ediﬁces was an open T/zeatrc, capable of containing
ten thousand spectators, and the only building now dis~
coverahle; all the other excavations having been ﬁlled up.
By a passage close to the Peasant’s \Vell we descended into

CHAP. x1. ENVIRONS or NAPLES. 459

this Theatre. The front of the stage seems to have been
decorated with columns, statues, &c. all of which are taken
away, two inscriptions excepted. The Proscenium was
found entire; and is an hundred and thirty feet long. Part
of the stage, and the base of one of the columns of ﬂowered
alabaster, with which it was adorned, were likewise dis-
covered; and in front of the stage, according to De la
Lande, were bronze statues of the Muses. Fragments also
were found of several bronze horses, supposed to have de-
corated the top of the wall which terminated the seats. All,
however, which we were able to discern was the Stage, the
Orchestra, the Consular Seats, and Proscenium; together
with the Corridors or lobbies; some parts of which exhibit
beautiful Arabesques, and Stucco stained with the dark red
colour already mentioned: we likewise saw the impression
of a human Face on the ceiling of one of the lObbies. This
theatre appears to have been lined with Parian marble, and
built about the same time with that at Verona, after the
designs of Numisius.

Persons who are fearful of encountering a damp and op-
pressive atmosphere, should not venture down into Her-
culanenm; especially as there is, in the Studii, a model of
this city; which, in its present state, appeared to us more
calculated to appal than please; particularly when we heard
the carriages at Portici rolling over our heads like thunder,
and felt conscious of being buried ourselves eighty feet deep
in lava *.

From Herculaneum we proceeded to the Museum at
Portici,- which, being a part of the royal Palace, cannot
be seen without an order from the Lord High Steward.
This Museum consists chieﬂy of Paintings found in Her-

* ‘Ve gave six earlini between the two guides who ac-
companied us down into Herculaneum.

460 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

culaneum and Pompeii: and judging from the beauty of
the composition, and the unskilfulness of the execution, it is
probable that many of them are copies, done by common
house-painters, from the most renowned pictures of an-
tiquity. The composition of Apollo and the lVIuses (now,
I believe, in Paris) is said to be so exquisite, that were an
artist to study for years he could not change any one fold
in the drapery to advantage; and the execution is said to
be so bad, that more than an hour could not have been
employed upon each ﬁgure. The subjects of the most cele-
brated Paintings are supposed to be; Dido abandoned by
Hineas !—the seven days of the week, represented by the
seven planets *—Theseus with the Minotaur dead at his
feet—Hercules and Telephus—Telephus suckled by a deer,
or Latinus son of Faunus, King of the Aborigines, an alle-
gorical painting relative to the origin of the Romans———the
Centaur, Chiron, teaching Achilles to strike the lyre,
ascribed to Parrhasius; though, more probably, copied
from a work by that artist i—Hei'cules strangling the ser-
pents sent by Juno to destroy him—Iphigenia discovering
Orestes — Orestes and Pylades chained, and conducted, by
the soldiers of King Thoas, before the statue of Diana—a
Parrot drawing a car, and a Grasshopper driving; supposed
to be a copy from Zeuxis ; who was famous for these whim-
sical subjects !—a Faun and a Bacchante—small pictures
of Rope-dancers, Bacchantes, &c. one of whom holds a
musical instrument used by the Neapolitans to this day

 

a

* They begin with Saturday; namely, Saturn clothed in
yellow and holding a scythe—Sunday, Apollo with a whip, like
u Cliarioteer—Monday, Diana with white robes and a sceptre—v—
Tuesday, Mars armed—\Vednesda_v, Mercury with a winged
bonnet fastened under his chin—'l'hursday, Jupiter in red,
without his thunder—and Friday, Venus in white, with a crown

of roses on her head and a wim‘ed Love by her side.

 

cmmxr. ENVIRONS or NAPLES. 461

Bacch‘ante carried off by a Centaur— another Centaur car-
rying off a Youth—small paintings representing Children
engaged in various occupations—quadrupeds, birds, ﬁshes,
fruits, &c. a female Centaur with a Nymph (Zeuxis is
supposed to have invented female Centaurs)—a female
Centaur and a Youth; she holds a cymbal of gilt bronze;
the thrones of l\Iars and Venus, with their attributes, are
in the same picturel—Boys making wine; this painting

 

exhibits an ancient wine-press—Boys engaged in other oc-
cupations—a naval Combat ill done, but curious, because it
exhibits ancient galleys, and the mode of ﬁghting them—a
landscape with trees, and a temple; in the centre of which
last is a buckler ornamented with the head of Medusa; it
being an ancient custom to suspend votive bucklers in
public ediﬁces—an Egyptian landscapeJ—a crocodile hunt
——crocodiles and hippopotami—(from the latter, says Pliny,
man learnt the art of bleeding himself; as this animal, when
too full of blood, presses its foot against pointed reeds, by
which means the operation is performed.) The education
of Bacchus, supposed to be the copy of a ﬁne original !—
Iphigenia ready for sacriﬁce, supposed likewise to be the
copy of a ﬁne original l—a Bacchanalian ceremony, in
which three ﬁgs are offered to the god; the number three,
a female
with wings, supposed to represent either Hebe, 01' Victory;
she holds a basin and a vase l—a Garden: (it is curious to
observe, in this and other pictures, that the ancient Roman
gardens were precisely what Italian gardens are now.)
Four pictures in one; namely, a hare and a fowl, a pheasant
and two apples, three birds and some mushrooms, two par-
tridges and three ﬁshes: (the hare, by ancient epicures,
was deemed the best quadruped, and the thrush the best
bird.) Diana l—a Cytharist, supposed to be Sappho, near

 

being sacred and typical among the heathens

whose left ear is a ﬂower, the sign of a lady of pleasure——

469 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

Hylas and Ganymede, the latter of whom holds a fan of
peacock’s feathers, which fans were used by the great people
of antiquity to chase away ﬂies; and are still carried in
grand processions at Rome, to hinder those troublesome
insects from annoying the Pope—A Woman looking at
herself in a mirror of yellow metal—(Pliny, however, men-
tions mirrors of green glass, the ﬁrst of which was made at
Sidon: Nero had an emerald mirror. The Roman ladies
are said to have carried these mirrors always about them;
it likewise appears that they used false hair, false teeth,
false eye-brows and eye-lashes, pomatum, rouge, and white
paint; and it is supposed that they frequently stained their
hair.) A young Female with light hair, the sign of a lady
of pleasure— Bacchus—the Grecian horse brought into
Troy—markets, shops, and schools, situated under porticos,
as was the custom in Greece and Rome—a two-wheeled
carriage, for the conveyance of baggage, with a postillion
on one of the horses, a mule saddled, and a blind man con-
ducted by a dog—a man riding one, and guiding three
horses—(the Romans frequently used to ride two, and even
four horses at once, leaping from one to the other with ex-
traordinary agility.)—Five Etruscan Priests, three of whom
are crowned with tiaras, the High P'iest’s being gold-—
Peace, or Peleus, supposed to have invented the poniard—
a Female seated, with two lyres and a garland, the lyre
being signiﬁcant of harmony, union, and conjugal love,
perhaps because the lVIuse Erato is said to have instituted
marriage—A theatrical representation of a Man in a
scoﬁing mask making horns, and showing them to a \Voman
who hides her face; this was the custom of the Greeks—-
two paintings of theatrical representations, in one of which
is a Youth in a [my-mask,- the only thing of the kind yet
discovered—a Poet, supposed to be fEschylus, dictating a
drama to the tragic Muse—Psyche and a winged Genius,

CHAP. x1. ENVIRONS or NAPLES—POMPEII. 463‘

with a shoe on his head, and another in his hand, both re-
sembling ours of the present day—an Egyptian temple-—
the worship of Osiris—a caricature of the Caesars, repre-
senting ZEneas, his father, and son, as impure deities with
dogs’ heads. Drawing in caricature seems to have been
common among the Ancients; who frequently compared
men to, and represented them under the forms of beasts.

This Bluseum likewise exhibits valious eatables retaining
their form, though scmched to a cinder, namely, corn,
ﬂour, bread, a pie in its baking-pan, wheat, peas, almonds,
beans, nuts, ﬁgs, grapes, eggs, ﬁsh, oil and wine; lace,
made of gold, burnt linen, burnt nets, and colours for
painting *1

EXCURSION TO POMPEI I.

We made the same bargain with respect to our carriage
as when we went to Caserta; for though Pompeii is only
thirteen miles and a half distant from Naples, the latter ex-
cursion requires more time than the former. We took
with us a cold dinner, wine, plates, knives, forks, glasses,
&c.; as nothing, except water, can be procured
Pompeii. The road lies through Portici, Torre-del-Greco,
and Torre-del—Annunziata; in the way to the ﬁrst of which,
is the Ponte Maddalena, under whose arches passes the
Sebeto, anciently Sebet/ms. The commencement of this
drive exhibits gardens and vineyards of the most luxuriant
description: but, near Torre-del-Greco, almost the whole
country has been laid waste by streams of lava, which,
during the summer of 1794, destroyed that town and its
vicinity. Vesuvius had for some time ceased to vomit ﬁre
and smoke as usual; a circumstance that generally presages

* The Custode of this Museum expects from three to six
earlini, according to the size of the party he attends.

464! TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

mischief: and late in the evening of Thursday, June the
twelfth, the inhabitants were alarmed by a sudden and
‘violent shock of an earthquake, which was thrice repeated,
continuing each time about three minutes and as many
seconds. This ﬁrst calamity produced a general con-
sternation; insomuch that the people ﬂed from their houses
into their gardens, and thence to the sea-side; where they
passed the night in dreadful alarm. Next morning pro-
cessions of men, women and children, were seen barefoot in
the streets of Naples, proceeding to the Cathedral, to im-
plore the protection of S. Gennaro. From Thursday till
Sunday the weather was tempestuous, the air hot, loaded
with vapours, and, at intervals, suddenly darkened for some
minutes; during which period there were several slight
shocks of an earthquake, attended by a rumbling sound,
like distant thunder. On Sunday evening the inhabitants
were again alarmed by a noise so violent that it resembled
a continual discharge of cannon; when, in a moment, burst
forth a volcano, not in the crater on the summit of Ve-
suvius, but toward the middle of the mountain, on the
western side. The explosion made every ediﬁce tremble in
Torre del Grcco, which is only ﬁve horizontal miles from
this new volcano, at whose mouth issued a column of
smoke, that continually mounted, and increased in mag-
nitude, till it formed itself into the shape of an immense
pine. This column was sometimes clearly distinguished;
and at others obscured by ashes: it continued augmenting
rapidly in circumference, till at length it began to decline
downward; when, from the quantity of dense matter which
composed the column being much heavier than the air, the
former, of course, fell to the ground. Torrents of ﬂaming
lava of a portentous magnitude now poured down the
mountain, principally in two directions; one stream, of
about a mile in breadth, bending its destructive course

CHAP. x1. POMPEII. 465

toward Torre-del-Greco, a town said to contain eighteen
thousand people, the other taking the direction of Resina ;
while several small rivulets of liquid ﬁre were observed in
divers places. Torre-del-Greco soon fell a prey to the lava;
which, in its progress, desolated the whole hill leading down
from Vesuvius, sweeping away every house, so that the
terriﬁed inhabitants were compelled to abandon their all,
and take refuge in Naples. At length, the lava, after three
hours’ devastation, ran into the sea; on whose banks, for
one-third of a square mile, it raised itself a bed from ﬁfteen
to twenty Neapolitan palmi * above the level of the water;
and as much, if not more, above the level of the streets of
Torre—del-Greco. The reﬂexion from this torrent of lava
illuminated the whole city of Naples, and ﬁlled its in-
habitants with dread; while the other torrent, which ﬂowed
toward Resina, on arriving at the gate divided itself into
three streams, one running between the gate and the Con-
vent de’ Padri F rancescani; the second to the Piazza; and
the third to the Convent del Carmine, near Torre del An-
nunziata. Wherever the lava ran, it covered the country
with a crust from twenty to thirty palmz' deep: in and
about Resina it left, for a short time, some few isolated
buildings, namely, the Palazzo-Brancaccia, the Chiesa de’
Blarinari, and the Convent de’ F rancescani; but these soon
caught ﬁre; and ﬁve women with one old man, after vainly
ringing the church and convent—bells for assistance, saved.
themselves by ﬂight. The Palazzo-Caracciolo now fell a
prey to the ﬂames; as did every other building in the
neighbourhood of Resina, till the whole surrounding plain
exhibited one vast sheet of lava. The town of Torre-del-
Greco likewise was completely buried; some few tops of the
loftiest buildings excepted; while every part of the country

‘ A Neapolitan palmo is rather more than ten English inches.
H H

466 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

through which the lava ran became a ‘ desert; the trees
being thrown down, the houses razed, and the ground, for
many miles distant, covered with cinders and ashes; which
last lay about one ﬁnger deep in Naples. On the sixteenth
of June the air was so dense as nearly to obscure the
mountain; but, next day, the ﬁre made itself new channels;
which circumstance might, probably, be the preservation of
several ﬁne buildings near Resina *.

The least fatiguing method of seeing Pompeii is to drive

* I cannot dismiss this subject without mentioning an ex-
traordinary circumstance which occurred at Pienza, near Siena,
just before the destruction of Torre-del-Greco. Professor Santi,
of Pisa (a gentleman whose name I have already mentioned),
resided at Pienza when this circumstance happened ; and to him
I was obliged for the following particulars, which may serve to
rescue many ancient historians from the reproach of credulity.

On the 36th of June a dark and dense cloud was discovered
at a great height above the horizon, coming from the south-
east, that is, in the direction of Vesuvius; which may be about
two hundred horizontal miles distant from Pienza. At this
height the cloud was heard to issue noises like the discharge of
several batteries of cannon, it then burst into ﬂames; at which
moment fell a shower of stones for seven or eight miles round 5
while the cloud gradually vanished. These stones are volcanic ;
being composed of grey lava, resembling what is found on
Vesuvius : and Mr. Santi, who took inﬁnite pains to investigate
this phenomenon, is persuaded that the cloud rose from Ve-
suvius, which was, at that moment, disgorging ﬁres whose
force and ellects cannot be calculated: it could not have arisen
from Radicofani; because, though this mountain is one con-
tinued mass of volcanic rocks, which bespeak it the offspring of
subterranean ﬁre, and though it has been sometimes visited by
dreadful earthquakes, still, neither history, nor even tradition,
records that it ejected ﬂames, smoke, or vapour, at any period
whatsoever.

CHAP. x1. I POMPEII. Z167

ﬁrst to the Amphitheatre ,- we, therefore, adopted this plan;
and then went in our carriage to tile Soldz'crs’ Barracks:
many persons, however, prefer entering by tile IIerculaneum
Gate,- because the approach through the Tombs, on that
side, is particularly impressive. At the Soldiers’ Barracks
we dismissed our carriage ; ordering it to be in waiting for
us at the Villa quz'omedes (which is near the Herculaneum
Gate), between three and four in the afternoon; and at
the same time desiring the Cicerone, who is always in at-
tendance at the barracks, to send our dinner to the above-
named I Villa.

Pompeii appears to have been a large, populous, and
handsome maritime city, situated near the mouth of the
Sarno, anciently Samus; and its walls, four miles in cir-
cumference, are said to have'been originally washed by the
sea, from which they are now about one mile distant. This
city was buried under ashes and pumice-stones, during the
year 79, as has been already mentioned; and accidentally
discovered, by some peasants, in 1750, as they were cul-
tivating a vineyard near the Sarno. The excavation of
this interesting city was attended with much less expense
than that of Herculaneum; because the ashes and pumice-
stones which entombed it were not more than from twelve
to ﬁfteen feet deep; and so easy was it to remove them, that
the citizens who survived the eruption of 79 evidently dis-
entombed and took away a considerable portion of their
moveable property; though they seem to have made no
eifort toward repairing the mischief done to their houses;
an extraordinary circumstance, as the roofs only were de—
stroyed *. The most interesting parts hitherto laid open

5* Suetonius says, that Titus endeavoured to repair the de-
vastation made by Vesuvius at Pompeii: but, if he succeeded,
subsequent eruptions must have destroyed his work.

H H 2

468 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

of this ill-fated city have been displayed to view by the
French; who uncovered its Walls, Amphitheatre, Forum,
Basilica, and adjoining Temples, together with the double
row of Sepulchres on the outside of the Herculaneum Grate.
Still, however, several streets remain buried; but ex-
cavations are going on daily; and were a thousand la-
bourers employed, it is supposed that the whole town might
be laid open in a twelvemonth. The streets are straight,
and paved with lava, having on each side raised footways,
usually composed of pozzolana and small pieces of brick, or
marble. The Via Appia (which traverses this town, and
extends to Brundusium) is broad; but the other streets are
narrow: carriage-wheels have worn traces in their pave-
ment; and from these traces it appears that the distance
between the wheels of ancient carriages was not four feet.
The houses already excavated are, generally speaking,
small; most of them, however, were evidently the habita-
tions of shopkeepers; but those which belonged to persons
of a higher class are usually adorned with a vestibule, or
portico, supported by columns of brick, stuccoed and
painted; an open quadrangle, with a supply of water for
the family in its centre ; and, on the sides of the quadrangle,
and behind it, are sitting-rooms, bed-rooms, kitchen, &c.;
which appear to have had little or no light, except what
the quadrangle afforded. Every apartment is paved with
mosaics *, the walls are stuccoed, painted, and beautifully
polished; the ceilings arched, the roofs ﬂat, and but few
houses have two stories. The windows appear to have been
provided with woOdcn shutters, like those of Herculaneum ;
some few, however, had glass; which seems to have been
thick, and not transparent: others had isinglass split into

* The patterns of these mosaics are remarkably elegant, and
scarce two of them alike.

CRAP. x1. POMPEII. 469

thin plates; and, what appears extraordinary, the paintings
in the large houses, with a very few exceptions, are not
more elegant than those in the small ones. The public
buildings were spacious and magniﬁcent. I will now men-
tion the ‘objects best worth notice as they lie contiguous to
each other.

Amphitheatre. In the centre of a spacious Piazza, pro-
bably a Circus for chariot races, stands this colossean
ediﬁce; which, when ﬁrst disentombed, was so perfect that
the paintings on the stuccoed wall which surrounds the
arena were as fresh and beautiful as if only just ﬁnished;
but, on being exposed to air, the stucco cracked, and fell
off; so that now very few paintings remain. The shape of
this Amphitheatre is oval; the architecture particularly ﬁne;
and a covered Corridor, once adorned with statues (the
Niches and Inscriptions belonging to which still remain),
leads to the principal entrance. We observed above one
of the ﬂights of steps leading to the seats, a basso-relz'evo in
marble of a Charioteer driving over his Competitor: and
on ascending beyond the seats, to the Gallery which en-
circles the ediﬁce, and was the place appropriated to female
spectators, we had a beautiful view of Vesuvius, Castel-a-
mare, the site of Stabiae, the mouth of the Sarno, and the
Bay of Naples. Skeletons of eight Lions and one Man,
supposed to have been their keeper, were found in ‘this
Amphitheatre.

Walls and Gates of Pompeii. From the above-mentioned
Gallery we descended to the City Walls, which were from
eighteen to twenty feet high, and twelve broad. They
consist of large smooth stones, apparently without cement,
but so nicely joined as to appear one mass: they seem to
have been fortiﬁed by low square towers, and a deep ditch
and likewise to have had, at right angles, four entrances
namely; the Sarno, or Sea Gate,- the Isiac Gate,- (so
called because near the Temple of Isis) tile Herculancum

4:70 TRAVELS ON THE CON'I'INENT. CHAP. XI.

Gate, and the Nola Gate ,- all of which entrances were ap-
parently unadorned, and composed of bricks stuccoed.
Soldiers’ Barracks, or Forum Venalia. This structure
was, for a considerable time, supposed to have been Bar-
racks; because iron stocks, with skeletons standing in them,
chains, and arms, were found here“: but subsequent ob-
servations have led the best informed antiquaries to think it
was the Forum Venalz'a, or principal Market-place. All
that now remains is an oblong square, bordered with
Porticos, which are supported by tufo Columns, of the
Doric order, without bases, stuccoed, coloured, and still
exhibiting Names of persons and Figures in armour, en-
graved upon them by the inhabitants of Pompeii. Within
the porticos are Rooms of various dimensions, supposed to
have served as shops and magazines for merchandize ; some
of the largest being about ﬁfteen feet square: and above
these rooms there was a second story, which appears to
have been surrounded with wooden balconies. The square
contains a fountain of excellent water, an ancient Table,
and a modern one, shaded with weeping willows, so as to
make a pleasant dinner apartment in warm weather f.
Comic T heatre. This ediﬁce, supposed to have been
the Odeum for music, is small, but‘nearly perfect; and was
covered with a roof resting upon columns, between which
were the apertures for light 1'. Here are the Consular
Seats, Orchestra, Stage, Dressing Rooms, Seats, and Stair—

* Perhaps it was the guard-house in which these stocks,
skeletons, &C. were found 5 for guards were always stationed in
ancient forums.

'f The model of the stocks, the skulls of the persons whose
skeletons were found in them, and the half-ﬁnished sculpture
discovered in the shop of a statuary, are kept here.

IRoofed theatres were uncommon among the Ancients;
whose theatrical representations appear to have been exhibited
by daylight.

p,
CRAP. x1. POMPEII. 471

cases for the male spectators; and another Staircase leading
to the Gallery round the top of the theatre, where the
females were placed. On the outside of the building is an
Inscription mentioning the name of the person at whose
expense it was roofed.

Tragic Theatre. This ediﬁce is much larger than the
comic Theatre, and in point of architecture one of the most
beautiful structures at Pompeii. It was lined throughout
with white marble, and still exhibits the Consular Seats,
the Orchestra, containing places where the curtain seems to
have been ﬁxed, the Stage, which appears to have been
adorned with statues *, the Dressing Rooms, the Benches
for patricians in the lower part of the Cavea, and those for
the inferior classes of people in the upper part; the Egress
for patricians, the Egress and stairs for plebeians, the Gal-
lery round the top of the building for ladies, the Stairs
which led to this gallery, and the Blocks of Marble pro—
jecting from its wall, so as to support the woodwork to
which, in case of rain or intense heat, an awning was fast-
ened Jr. The orchestra, as was usual in ancient theatres, is
inclosed between dwarf-walls, and divides the stage from
that portion of the ediﬁce which contained the audience.
The stage, like those of modern days, is higher at the
upper than the lower end, very wide, but so shallow that
much scenery could not have been used; although the
Ancients changed their scenes by aid of engines, with which
they turned the partition, called the Scena, round at plea-

" The partition between the players’ dressing rooms and the
stage was called the Scena ,- and decorated with statues, columns,
&c. for a tragedy; and, for a comedy, with cottages and pas-
toral scenery.

T The Campanians invented awnings for theatres, to guard
the spectators from the rays of the sun ; but were in consequence
culled cﬁeminate.

 

472 TRAVELS ON THE CONﬁNENT. CHAI’. XI.

sure. There are three entrances for the actors, all in front;
and behind the stage were the dressing rooms. This
Theatre is built on the side of a hill, according to the
custom of the Greeks: and on the top of this hill was an
extensive portico (the Columns of which remain) destined,
perhaps, to shelter the spectators in wet weather; and like-
wise to serve as a public walk; the view it commands being
delightful.

Temple of Hercules. This ediﬁce, apparently more
ancient than any other temple at Pompeii, is supposed to
have been thrown down by the earthquake which oc-
curred in the year 63 *, rebuilt, but ﬁnally destroyed in
the year 79. It seems to have been a majestic Doric
structure, which stood on a platform of a quadrilateral
shape, with three steps on every side leading up to it.
The Platform still remains; and is ninety feet long, by
sixty Wide: traces of gigantic columns are likewise dis-
coverable; and, frontng the platform, are three Altars:
that in the centre is small, and probably held the sacred
ﬁre; those on each side are large, low, and shaped like
sarcophagi; the latter kind of altar, called Am, being,
when sacriﬁces were made to the terrestrial divinities, the
place on which the victim was burnt 1n Behind the altars
is a Receptacle for the sacred ashes. A handsome Portico,
which still remains, led to this Temple, from the Via
Appia.

Temple of Isis. According to an inscription, found
here, it appears that this Ediﬁce was thrown down by
the earthquake of 63, and rebuilt by Numerius Popidius
Celsinus: it is sixty—eight feet long, by sixty wide; in good
preservation; and especially worth notice; for to contem-

* This earthquake is mentioned by Seneca.

T The Altair, so called because high, was the place where
sacrifices were made to the celestial divinities.

I
CHAP. x1. ' POMPEII. 4'78

plate the altar whence so many oracles have issued, to see
the very hiding-place into which the priests crept, when
they spoke for the statue of their goddess, nay to discover
the secret stairs by which they ascended into the Sanctum
Sanctorum; in short, to examine the construction of a
Temple more Egyptian than Greek, is peculiarly inte-
resting *. This structure is Doric, and composed of bricks
stuccoed, painted, and beautifully polished. The Sanctum
Sanctorum is placed on seven steps, and in form nearly
square; the walls are stuccoed, and exhibit niches for
statues; and, among other Ornaments, the Pomegranate,
which was one of the emblems of Isis, called Roia in Greek.
The Pavement is mosaic. Here, on two altars, were
suspended the Isiac Tables: on the High Altar stood the
statue of the goddess; under this altar are the apertures
to the hiding-place for the Priests; and adjoining are the
Secret Stairs. In the lower part of the Temple, fronting
the Sanctum Sanctorum, are altars whereon the Victims
were burnt; together with Receptacles for their ashes, and
the Aqua lustrale. A statue of Silence was also found op-
posite to the high altar. In other parts of the temple are
small Altars, a Kitchen, and a Refectory where the priests
were dining at the moment of the eruption which entombed
Pompeii. Burnt bread, ﬁsh, and poultry, are said to have
been found here; together with skeletons of priests who
either had no time to escape, or felt it their duty not to
abandon their goddess. The walls of this temple were
adorned by paintings of Isis with the sistrum, Anubis with
a dog’s head, priests with palm-branches and ears of corn,
and one priest holding a lamp; the hippopotamus, the
ibis, the lotus, dolphins, birds, and arabesques: all these,

* The traffic between the Pompeians and Alexandrians is sup-
posed to have given riseto the worship of Isis at Pompeii.

r,
474 TRAVELS ON THE CON’f‘INENT. can. x1.

however, are removed to Naples; as are the statues of
Venus, Bacchus, and Priapus, likewise found here.

Tribunal. This ediﬁce is an oblong Court surrounded
with Porticos, and containing a Rostrum with steps to
ascend into it.

Temple of Escalapius. The centre of this little Temple
contains a large low Altar shaped like a sarcophagus: the
Sanctum Sanctorum is placed on nine steps, and seems to
have been covered, judging by the traces of columns still
discoverable. Here was found the statue of ZEsculapius in
tm'ra-coz‘ta.

Sculptor’s S1201). Severalvstatues in marble, some just
begun, and others nearly ﬁnished, were discovered in this
habitation, the quadrangle belonging to which was likewise
ﬁlled with blocks of marble, and tools now preserved in the
academy of sculpture at Naples.

Via Appz'a. This street is paved with large volcanic-
stones, and about twelve feet wide, exclusive of the foot-
ways. On each side are Shops and other buildings, all of
which exhibit the Names and Occupations of the persons
by whom they were once inhabited written with red paint:
and the Wall of what appears to have been a public Ediﬁce
exhibits the ordinances of the Magistrates, the days ap-
pointed for Festivals, &0. likewise written with red paint *.
Here are Fountains, Bakers’ Shops, with Mortars for grind—
ing corn; Oil and Wine Shops; a House adorned with

* An advertisement was found on the outside of a large private
house importing, that it was to be let for ﬁve years, together
with nine hundred shops, all belonging to the same person:
and supposing no mistake to have arisen, respecting the import
of this advertisement, how great must have been the trade and
population of Pompeii when one Person only posscssedninc
hundred shops!

CHAP. XI. POMPEII. 4:75

Paintings of the Heathen Divinities; and another, elegantly
painted, and supposed to have belonged to a Jeweller.

Fora Cz'vilz'a. Fronting the Via Appia stands this Forum,
a very large oblong Piazza, which appears to have been
bordered with magniﬁcent porticos supported by a double
row of columns of travertino, and paved with marble.
The Piazza contains, on the left, the Pedestal for a statue
of Sallust, found unﬁnished; the Pedestal for a colossal
statue, found unﬁnished; Marbles of various kinds, evi-
dently prepared for new buildings; and three large Ediﬁces
supposed to have been Tribunals, that in the centre un—
ﬁnished. Beyond these ediﬁces, and fronting the Via
Appia, stands t/ze Basilica, 0r Court of Justice, at quadri-
lateral structure, in length an hundred and ninety feet, and
in breadth seventy—two. The walls are ornamented with
Corinthian Pilasters; and the centre of the building ex—
hibits a double row of Corinthian Columns, twenty-eight
in number. The Tribuna for the judges, which stands at
the upper end of the court, is considerably elevated, and
has, immediately beneath it, an Apartment supposed to
have been a prison *. On the right of the Basilica is the
Temple of Venus, which exhibits beautiful remains of its
original splendour. This ediﬁce is quadrilateral, its di-
mensions being large, and its Walls elegantly painted. The
Sanctum Sanctorum, which stands on ﬁfteen steps, is paved
with Biosaics; and in an adjoining Apartment is a well-
preserved Painting of Bacchus and Silenus. The lower
part of the Temple contains a Hermes resembling a
Vestal; and an Altar, or perhaps the Pedestal of the statue
of Venus, which seems to have slid from its proper place, in
consequence of an earthquake: the Steps leading to the
Sanctum Sanctorum have the same appearance; and indeed

* Bronze stoves, of a beautiful form, are said to have been
found in this Basilica.

476 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

all the buildings belonging’to this Forum seem to have
suffered more from the earthquake which preceded the
eruption of 79, than from that eruption itself.

Temple Qf Jupiter. This Temple, supposed, by some
persons to have been consecrated to Juno, is situated at the
upper end of the Piazza, immediately before two triumphal
Arches, or Gateways; on the Wall behind which are
Paintings representing Juno and Mars. Several steps,
now completely shaken to pieces by the convulsions of the
earth, lead to the Vestibule of the Temple, which seems
to have been quadrilateral, large, and magniﬁcent. The
Walls exhibit Frescos of a more gaudy description than is
common at Pompeii, and among them we discovered re-
presentations of Peacocks. The Cella is elegantly paved
with Mosaics. On that side of the Piazza which fronts
the Basilica are two Buildings, supposed to have been
Temples; and one of which contains a beautiful Altar
adorned with Bassi—rilievi representing a sacriﬁce.

House of Championet, so called because excavated by a
French General of that name. Here are elegant mosaic
Pavements, several Paintings, and Ofﬁces under-ground.
This house is near the Basilica.

Villas. Beyond the Forum and on the way to the Hercu-
laneum Gate are three private houses, called Villas; the two
ﬁrst of which contain several Paintings and mosaic Pave-
ments; and the last, supposed to have belonged to Sallust, is
especially worth notice, because it exhibits a Dinner Table,
with places where mattresses appear to have been laid, for
the family to lie down while they dined. This table is in the
back part of the house: and an adjoining Apartment contains
a remarkably well preserved and ﬁne Painting of Diana and
Actaeon, together with a particularly beautiful marble Pave-
ment.

Wine and oil 3/101). Several of these Shops are found in

can. x1. POMPEII. 477

every Street, with the Vessels which contained the oil and
wine still remaining.

Public Baking-House. Here are Ovens and Corn—Mills.
Shops of this description abound in Pompeii.

C(ﬂ'ee-House. This Shop merits notice, because the Marks
of Cups may be discovered on its Marble Dresser.

Custom-House. Here were found a large number of
weights, scales, and steelyards, similarﬁto those now used at
Naples.

Some of the Ruins in this part of the city appear to have
been public Baths*.

Herculaneum Gate. This Gate consisted of three arches;
that in the centre being for carriages, and those on each side
for foot—passengers. Beyond the Gate is a semicircular
stone Bench, where the citizens used to assemble and con—
verse; and here begins a double row of Tombs, which extend
throughout this Suburb of Pompeii, called by the Ancients
Pagus Augustus Felix. Near one of these Tombs is «the
place where the bodies of the Dead are supposed to have
been burnt; and beyond it another Seat, covered, and
adorned with elegant Ornaments in Stucco.

Tomb of tile Gladiators. This Sepulchre particularly
merits notice, because its interior is quite perfect, and exhi-
bits a considerable number of niches for cinerary urns.

Imz, or Post-house. This appears to have been a large
building, well provided with horses, carriages, &c.; and
standing on the outside of the city, because Strangers were
not permitted to sleep within its walls.

* This quarter of the town contains an Ediﬁce which seems
to exhibit three separate habitations under one roof. On the
threshold, wrought in mosaic, was found the word “ Salve,"
(welcome ,-) a curious labyrinth, or table for playing at an ancient
game, was likewise found in the centre of one of the ﬂoors; and
these mosaics seem to indicate that the house was an Hotel.

478 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

Repository jbr the Ashes of tlge Dead. This Ediﬁce,
wherein the ashes of persons who had not private tombs
were deposited, has on its summit an Altar adorned with
bassi-rz'lz'evz'.

Building appropriated to the Silicerm'um, after Funerals.
This is a small Structure, stuccoed and painted within side,
and containing a marble Table on which funeral suppers
were served.

Villa of Diomedes. The ﬁrst ediﬁce disentombed at
Pompeii was this Villa, the skeleton of whose master, Marcus
Arrius Diomedes, was found here, with keys in one hand
and money in the other; and behind him a skeleton with
vases of silver and bronze. The house has two stories: on
the ground-ﬂoor are several Rooms nearly in their original
state; as are the Garden and the Cellar; the former of
which has a Pergola round it, and a Bath in its centre: the
latter contains VVine-Jars ﬁlled with, and cemented to the
wall by ashes. The upper-ﬂoor exhibits mosaic Pavements,
Paintings, hot and cold Baths, and a Kitchen quite entire.
Several human skeletons were discovered in this vicinity;
though all together not more than two hundred have yet
been found in the city and its suburbs.

No Traveller should lose an opportunity of visiting
Pompeii, which exhibits, even now, one of the most interest-
ing objects in the world—and when ﬁrst discovered, when
skeletons were seen in the houses, when lamps, candelabra,
glasses of various kinds and shapes, culinary utensils, and
even the very bread of the suffocated inhabitants were dis-
cernible; when the temples were ﬁlled with statues of
heathen divinities, and adorned with all the elegant and
costly ornaments of heathen worship, what a speculation
must this ill-fated city have furnished to a thinking mind!
——and though the greater part of its moveable wealth is
now conveyed to the royal Neapolitan Museums, still, to

CHAP. x1. Pin STUM. 4:79

visit it, even now, is absolutely to live with the Ancients:
and when we see houses, shops, furniture, implements of
husbandry, &c. 8L0. exactly similar to those of the present
day, we are apt to conclude that customs and manners have
undergone but little variation for the last two thousand
years. The practice of consulting augurs, and that of hiring
persons to weep at funerals, are still kept up in the moun-
tainous and secluded parts of Tuscany; and the Tuscan
cattle, when destined for slaughter, are frequently adorned
with Chaplets of ﬂowers precisely as the Ancients used to
adorn their victims for sacriﬁce. The Roman butchers,
likewise, still wear the dress, and use the knife of heathen
sacriﬁcing priests. The old Roman custom of not eating
above one regular meal a day, and that about the ninth
hour of Italy, (three o’clock with us) is kept up by many of
the Italians: and, during the month of May, it is common
to see peasants dressed, as in former times, like Pan, satyrs,
&c.* I do not, however, mean to infer, from What I have
said, that the modern Greeks and Italians equal the Ancients
in works of art; there being, in this respect, a considerable
difference between the present race and their forefathers 1‘.

EXCURSION TO PESTUM.

The distance from Naples to Paestum is computed to be

* In Tuscany the ancient Greek practice of placing herbs,
eggs, and what we call a whet, upon the table before dinner, is
still kept up at hotels.

f We gave to the Cicerone at Pompeii one piastre—to the
Boy who carried our dinner to the Villa of Diomedes two carlini
——t0 the person who lives in that Villa and provided us with a.
dinner table and benches to sit upon, ﬁve carlini—to the Custode
of the Temple of Venus two carlini—and to the Custcde of the
temple which contains the newly found altar adorned with bassi-
rilievz', one carlino.

480 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

ﬁfty-four miles; and the time employed in going, with a
light four-wheeled carriage and four horses, is as follows.
From Naples to Pompeii..................hours, 2g
Salerno . 3
Eboli 3;
Paestum 3.
Persons who are restricted for time may accomplish this
excursion in two days, by ordering their Voiturin to send
forward a relay of horses to take them from Salerno to
Paestum: but the more eligible plan is to sleep the ﬁrst
night at Ebolz'; the second at Salerno ,- and return on the;
third day to Naples. The former mode of going usually
costs from thirty-ﬁve to forty piastres for the horses; the
latter about thirty *. From Salerno to Pmstum there is a.
cross road, six or eight miles shorter than that which goes
through Eboli; but not good, even during summer; and,
at other seasons, impracticable. The great road from
Naples to Eboli is excellent. VVishing to sleep the ﬁrst
night at Eboli, we set out as early as possible from Naples ;
and, on entering the valley near the Sea Gate of Pompeii,
drove through cotton plantations, watered by the Sarno;
thence proceeding to Nocera, anciently Nuceria, a town of
high antiquity; but where nothing now remains worth
notice, except the Church quanta ZVIarz'a Illaggz'ore, which is
adorned with an antique Font, for the immersionof adults,
similar to that in the Baptistery at Pisa. The Church is of

* An English family, consisting of six persons, lately paid,
for an open carriage and four horses, only twenty-four piastres,
buona-mano inclusive: they slept the ﬁrst night at Salerno;
paying for supper eight carlini a head ; and for beds four carlini
a head. The next day they visited Pzestum ; remaining there
ﬁve hours; and then returning to sleep at Eboli; whence they
proceeded, next morning, to Amalﬁ, (a water excursion, which
takes up two hours,) and the same evening reached Naples.

CRAP. XI. PESTUM. 481

an orbicular form; it contains a double circle of Columns
of precious marbles; and seems to have been originally a.
Temple consecrated to all the gods. From Nocera we
drove through a rich vale, exhibiting picturesque scenery,
to Cam, 3. large town with porticos on each side of the high
street, like those at Bologna. On quitting Cava we were
presented with the sight of an ancient Aqueduct, and a Villa
which stands amidst hanging gardens at the foot of the
Apennine, in a very remarkable situation. We then drove
to Vietri, built on the side of a mountain in the immense
and magniﬁcent Bay of Salerno, and exhibiting views of the
most beautiful description. Vietri (which has risen from
the ashes of the ancient Marcina) is not far distant from
Amalﬁ, the ‘Islands of the Sirens, and the Promontory of
Minerva; which all lie toward the right; while, on the
opposite side of the Bay, rises the celebrated Promontory
of Leucosia. From Vietri we drove between the sea and
the mountains of the Apennine, richly wooded, and em-
bellished with convents, villages, and ruins of ancient
ediﬁces, to Salerno, formerly Salurnem; the approach to
which is enchanting. This town, situated about twenty-
seven miles ﬁom Naples, and celebrated by the poets of the
Augustan age for its delightful position, was anciently the
capital of the Picentes; and is, at the present moment, a
handsome sea-port embosomed in the Gulf to which it
gives a name. The Precincts of the Cathedral here, and
the Church itself, contain some antiquities brought from
Paestum; among which are Columns, apparently of Roman
workmanship, two or three Sarcophagi, and the Basin of a
Fountain, all placed in the Court before the ediﬁce, and
the last ﬁxed the wrong side upward in the wall of the
Court. Among the antiquities within the Cathedral are
two fine Columns of verde antico, a mosaic Pavement, and
two Vases for the aqua lustrale; one of which is adorned
I 1

|

482 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

with bassi-rz'lievi representing the history of Alexander’s
yexpedition to India; the other with representations of the

pleasures of the vintage. The subterranean Church, be-

neath this Cathedral, is said to contain the bones of S. Mat-
thew. Salerno boasts a tolerably good Inn, where we
breakfasted, at the same time providing ourselves with
bread, meat, fruit, wine, water, every thing, in short, which
we were likely to require at Paestum: and being anxious to
get thither as soon as possible, we ordered our drivers to
take the summer road, instead of going round by Eboli:
this road, however, we did not reach for above an hour;
but kept on the highway; which traverses a rich and
beautiful country, to us rendered doubly interesting by little
groups of Calabrian farmers, dressed as Salvator Rosa fre-
quently pourtrays them, and all armed with short swords
and fowling—pieces: some of these people were walking;
others riding; others regaling themselves in temporary
arbours close to the road; and as the harvest was getting
in, when we passed this road, we likewise had the pleasure
to observe the Calabrian mode of thrashing corn; which
operation is accomplished by means of a Small vehicle,
shaped like an ancient car, placed on a wooden harrow,
and drawn by two oxen : in this vehicle sit two children, or
one man, to guide the oxen; who walk round and round a
circular paved space, enclosed by a dwarf wall, and strewed
with the unthrashed grain; which is continually turned by ,
the harrow, while the animals thrash it with their hoofs.
Two or three of these vehicles are frequently employed at
the same moment, in each of the above described enclosures.
After proceeding from six to eight miles through this
luxuriant and populous country, we observed that the farm
houses gradually diminished in number; till, at length, on
our turning off to the right, to take the summer road, they
totally disappeared; while the face of the country became

CHAP. x1. PESTUM.‘ , 483

wild, melancholy, and like the Pontine Marshes twenty
years ago. We also found the soil loose and swampy; and
the crazy bridges, made with boughs of trees and thrown ovelﬁ:
deep ditches, which we were compelled to cross, frequently
endangered our carriage and horses, and obliged us to walk.
At length, however, we arrived within sight of Persano, a
princely hunting seat belonging to the King of Naples:
but, on learning that the bridge in this neighbourhood,
thrown across the Silaro by Murat, was not sufﬁciently
ﬁnished for carriages to pass over it, we found ourselves
under the disagreeable necessity of fording the river; in
order to accomplish which we quiLted the Persano road,
and turned off a second time to the right, proceeding
through woods of tamarisk and clumps of myrtle, till
we reached the banks of the Silaro, anciently Silarus, and
famed, from Lime immemorial, for the petrifying quality of
its waters: when, having with difﬁculty procured a forder
to walk at the head of our horses, we dashed down a sharp
descent into the stream, which is by no means narrow, and
rather deep; though, during dry seasons, not dangerous:
our horses, however, seemed inclined to make it so; for,
being much heated, and finding their situation very refresh-
ing, they no sooner got midway through this river, than
they stopped short; thus subjecting us to be driven out of
our course by the current: indeed the poor jaded animals
were with such diﬁ‘iculty induced to proceed, that I began
to'apprehend we might, like, other commodities washed by
the petrifying Silaro, be all converted into stone. The
strong arm of our forder, however, at length compelled the
horses to continue their journey; and after having gained
the opposite side of the river, we proceeded, amidst wide
desolation, through a vast plain unembellished now with
roses *, vainly seeking for Paestum; which, from its peculiar

* This plain is celebrated by Virgil for its roses that bloomed
I I 2

4‘84 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

situation, is so difﬁcult to ﬁnd, that I no longer wonder at
its having, when abandoned by its citizens, remained for ages
‘undiscovered: after driving four miles without seeing a
single habitation, or any living thing, except one eagle, and
several herds of that stupid swinish looking animal the
buffalo, we at length approached a small patch of cultivation
fenced with hedges'of wild vines; when, turning toward
the sea, we beheld, about a mile distant from its margin,
and encompassed with silence and solitude, three stately
ediﬁces; which announced themselves as the remains of
Pastum : not, however, such remains as seemed to accord
with the eifeminate, though ﬁnished taste of the rich and
luxurious Sybarites—on the contrary I could not help
fancying myself transported to India, and placed before the
simply majestic specimens of Hindoo architecture repre-
sented by the pencil of Daniel. There is a room in a farm-
house, near the Temples, where Travellers who wish for
shelter may eat the dinner they bring with them; but its
wretched inhabitants can supply nothing except water; and
even that is extremely unwhol‘esome; for the aqueducts
which once conveyed healthy beverage to the town, are
now no more. Travellers should neither sleep at Paestum,
nor approach its environs till an hour after sun rise; neither
should they remain within its walls long enough to en-
counter the dew which falls immediately before sunset:
and though, taking these precautions, it may be possible to
escape the dangerous effects of malaria, even during the
months when it is most prevalent, (those of July, August,
and September,) still, I would counsel Travellers to prefer
visiting Paestum in April, May, or October.

This city, supposed to be the ancient Poseidonia of a

twice a year (in May and Deéemher); but the bushes which
produced these ﬂowers are said to have been removed while the
kingdom of Naples was under French government.

can. x1. PIESTUM. 4:85

colony of Sybarite adventurers, who, on landing here,
found a town, drove its inhabitants to the mountains, and
established themselves in their stead; appears, from its
name, to have been dedicated to Neptune, called Hoe-51523:!
by the Greeks. The Sybarites, however, were supplanted
by the Lucanians ; and these by the Romans; under whose
dominion Poseidonia assumed the name of Paestum: and
after having survived the Roman empire in the west, was
destroyed, by the Saracens, about the commencement of
the tenth century ””2 Previous to describing the ruins of
this venerable city it seems expedient to remark, that some
of these ruins appear to be of much higher antiquity than
others; probably because the Sybarites, after having ba-
nished and succeeded the original inhabitants, supposed to
have been Etrurians, repaired the walls, embellished the
temples, and erected baths, and other ediﬁces, congenial to
the taste of an opulent and luxurious nation: and when
Poseidonia fell under the yoke of the Romans, it is natural
to imagine they might have introduced Roman architec-
ture.

IValIs qucestum. These Walls, like those of Pompeii,
are composed of very large smooth stones, put together
with such nicety that it is difﬁcult to distinguish where they
join-r; they are two miles and a half in circumference,
and nearly of an elliptical form; their height seems to have
been about ﬁfty English feet, their breadth about twenty,
and they were fortiﬁed by eight low Towers twenty-four

* The temples of Paestum were visited by Augustus, as ve-
nerable antiquities, even in his days; but appear, during modern
times, to have been totally forgotten; till discovered, in 1755,
by a young painter of Naples, who once more brought them
into public notice.

1- The Etruscan walls of Fiesole appear to have been of the
same description in point of architecture.

486 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. ciIAP.x1

feet square within, and at the windows twenty-three inches
thick: these Towers are less ancient than the Walls; and
some of the stones which compose them measure ﬁve feet in
"length.

Gates. Paestum had four Gates, placed at right angles;
but that which fronts the east alone remains perfect: it
consists of one simple arch, about ﬁfty feet high, and built
of stones incredibly massive. On the key stone of this
Arch it was easy once to discern two bassi—rz'lz'evi; the one
representing the Sirena Pestana holding a rose; the other
representing a Dolphin; ancient symbols of a maritime
people: time, however, has so far obliterated these symbols
that I could not discover them. Within the Gate was a
second Wall; and between the two are remains of 'Soldiers’
Barracks; and likewise of the ancient Pavement of the
city, which resembles that of Pompeii. On the outside of
the northern Gate are several vestiges of Tombs, some of
which appear to have been lined with stucco painted. Gre-
cian armour, and vases of rare beauty, exhibiting Greek
inscriptions, were found in many of them.

Temple of Neptune. This Ediﬁce, the most majestic,
and apparently the most ancient here, or indeed in any
other part of the European world, is composed of stone,
evidently created by the torpedo touch of the Silaro: for,
like the stone of T ivoli, it consists of wood, and various
other substances petriﬁed; and though durable as granite,
abounds with so many small cavities that it resembles cork.
The shape of this Temple, supposed to have been consecrated
to Neptune, is quadrilateral; its length, but and out, an
hundred and ninety-seven English feet; its breadth eighty:
it has two fronts, both being adorned with a pediment, sup-
ported by six enormous ﬂuted columns. Each side is sup-
ported by twelve columns (those in the angles not being
counted twice) ; and a Doric Frieze and Cornice encompass

CHAP. x1. PIESTUM. 487

the whole building. The above named exterior columns,
generally composed of six, though in a few instances, of
seven blocks of store, are in height only twenty-seven feet;
their circumference, at the bottom, is twenty feet six inches;
but considerably less at the top: and the number of ﬂutings
to each column is twenty-four. They have no bases;
but rest on the third step of the platform on which the
ediﬁce is erected. The capitals are quite simple; and we
in the style of Hindoo architecture than any other. Two
ﬂights of steps lead to the two Vestibules, each of which is
supported by two pilasters with two columns between them;
the breadth of each vestibule being eleven feet six inches.
The Cella, forty-four feet in breadth, is enclosed by four
dwarf walls, and adorned with fourteen columns, disposed
in the same manner as the exterior row; but less massive;
the circumference at the bottom being only thirteen feet ten
inches, and much less at the top; and the ﬂutings to each
only twenty in number. The Situation of the High Altar
and those on which victims were sacriﬁced and offerings
made, is discoverable; and it appears that these altars
fronted the east. The interior columns support an immense
architrave; on which rises another set of still smaller
columns; destined, perhaps, to support the roof of the por-
tico: ﬁve only of these columns remain on one side, and
three on the other. Gigantic steps above ﬁve feet deep,
and three in number, lead up to the platform on which the
temple stands, and encompass it on every side *. The

* There being only three steps seems extraordinary; because
they are so inconveniently deep it is scarcely possible to ascend
them : but as the number three, was, as I have already observed,
sacred and typical among the Ancients, this might, perhaps, be
the cause why the Pastum temples are surrounded by three
steps only.

488 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CRAP. XI.

largest stone of this stupendous ediﬁce contains one way
thirteen feet eight inches; another way four feet eight
inches; and another, two feet three inches; making alto-
gether one hundred and forty-four cubic feet.

I have already mentioned that some authors suppose the
Etrurians to have been originally Cananeans; there seems,
indeed, great reason to think they were so; and if this be
admitted, it will appear probable that when they emigrated
to the European Continent, their ﬁrst landing place might
be Paestum: and it seems equally probable that, on landing,
they might erect the stupendous Temple I have endeavoured
to describe.

Basilica, so called, because no appearance is exhibited
here, either of altars or a cella. This Ediﬁce, which
stands, like the Temple of Neptune, on a quadrilateral
platform, is in length, out and out, an hundred and sixty-
eight feet six inches; and in breadth eighty feet six inches;
it has two fronts, each being adorned by nine ﬂuted columns
without bases; and resting on the third step of the plat-
form; which step is ﬁve feet two inches deep. Each side
is adorned by sixteen columns (the angular columns not
being counted twice), resting, likewise, on the ﬁrst step of
the platform: the circumference of the largest columns, at
the bottom, is fourteen feet six inches; and, at the top,
much less. Both fronts lead to a Vestibule; and the in-
terior of the building is supposed to have been divided into
equal parts by columns placed in a straight line from one
entrance to the other; but only three of these columns now
remain; and they do not range with the exterior ones.
VVhere these three columns stand, the pavement seems to
have been raised; and probably this spot was appropriated
to the magistrates. The Portico, which is supposed to
have been appropriated to the common people, measures,

can. x1. FIESTUM. 489

in breadth, ﬁfteen feet; and the Cross Walk ﬁfteen feet six
inches. A Doric Frieze and Cornice adorn the outside of
the ediﬁce.

Temple of Ceres. This Temple, supposed to have been
dedicated to Ceres, though smaller, and consequently less
imposing than that of Neptune, exhibits a lighter and more
elegant style of architecture: its form is quadrilateral; its
length, out and out, an hundred and eight feet; and its
breadth forty-eight. There are two fronts; each being
adorned with six columns, which support a magniﬁcent
entablature‘ and a pediment. Each side presents twelve
columns, supporting a similar entablature; and every
column is ﬂuted, and rests, without base, on the third step
of the platform on which the temple stands: the diameter
of each column is four feet at the bottom; less at the top;
and the height thirty feet. At the entrance is a Vestibule,
supported by six columns with plain round bases; and
beyond are four steps leading to the Cella, which is twenty-
ﬁve feet wide, and encompassed, on the four sides, by a
dwarf wall. The Situation of the High Altar, and of
those whereon victims were sacriﬁced and offerings made,
is discoverable; these altars fronted the east. Remains of
Sarcophagi are likewise discoverable within the precincts of
this temple; the outside of which is adorned with a Doric
frieze and Cornice; and all its columns, together with those
of the Basilica, and the Temple of Neptune, appear to have
been stuccoed. The Pavement of these buildings was
Mosaic.

Theatre. This Ediﬁce is almost totally destroyed; but
the fragments of griffons and ﬁne bassi—rz'lievz', which have
been found here, evince that it was erected at a period when
sculpture was rising fast to its zenith of perfection.

Amp/”theatre. This Ediﬁce likewise IS nearly destroyed:
it appears to haxe been of an oval form, an hundred and

490 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

seventy feet wide, by an hundred and twenty long. Ten
rows of Seats, and some of the Caves for wild beasts, may
still be traced: it stood precisely in the centre of the town.

The great antiquity of Paastum, and the uncertainty as
to what its remaining ediﬁces originally were, and to whom
they belonged, brought to my recollection a celebrated
Italian sonnet, which may be‘thus imitated.

“ SAY, TiME—whose, once, yon stately Pile,” I cried,

“ \Vhich, 720w, thou crumblest, ruthless, with the soil 2"—
He answer'd not—but spread his pinions wide,

And ﬂew, with eager haste, to ampler spoil.

“ Say, then, proliﬁc FAME, whose breath supplies
Life to each work of wonder—what were those I'L—
Abash’d, with blushes only she replies,

Like one whose bosom heaves with secret throes.

Lost in amaze, I turn’d my steps aside ;
When round the Pile I saw OBLIVION glide,
And scatter‘poppies o’er each vacant shrine—
“ Speak !” I exclaim‘d—“ for once, mute Nymph, reveal——
Yet wherefore from thy lips remove the seal 2—
IVhose once it was avails not—now ’tis THINE l”

Having dined in the temple of Neptune, and at the same
time enjoyed the most delicious and impressive mental feast
which European scenery can furnish, we set out to return
home by way of Eboli; sending our carriage empty to ford
the Silaro, While we walked over the new bridge. We were
nearly four hours in driving to Ebolz'; and, as it was quite
dark, I cangive no account of the road, further than that
we found it smooth, and apparently excellent, except the
ﬁrst four. miles. We slept at Eboli, where the Inn contains
several beds, but an ill-provided larder; and next morning

‘CHAP; x1. SORRENTO. 491

pursued our way to Salerno *. Wishing to visit théiBene-
dictine Convent of La Trinita‘, near Cam, we stopped at
the entrance of that town, and sent for a light carriage and
two strong horses, to take us up a rocky mountain of the
Apenninc, on which the Convent is situated, at the distance
of two miles from the high road, and in the mule-path to
Amalﬁ. The ascent to La Trinita presents ﬁne scenery;
and the Convent, which is partly hewn out of a rock, arid
partly built upon it, is spacious even to magniﬁcence; but
contains nothing particularly worth examination; as the
curious records, once kept there, were removed, when the
French suppressed this confraternity. After having seen
the Convent of La Trinita, we proceeded to Naples; stop-
ping, however, at Pompeii,- through which town we walked,
while our carriage went round the outside of the walls to
meet us at ﬂze V din of Diomedps: and, during this walk,
we were struck with the similitude of shape and archi-
tecture between the Temple of Hercules here, and that of
Neptune at Paestum.

4:1"

EXCURSION, BY WATER, TO SORRENTO.

Sorrento, anciently called Syrcnzfzmz, from its enchanting
situation, is between ﬁve and six leagues distant from
Naples; and lies on the left side of the bay, beyond Castel-
a-mare, and near Capri. Persons who wish to go and
return the same day, should set out very early in the morn-
ing, it being necessary to allow four hours for {owing to
Sorrento; three for refreshing the boatmen; and four for
returning 1-. This excursion may be made by land, through

* There is at Eboli an inn called La Rosa Petrilla, which,
though not usually resorted to by Travellers, contains good beds
and a tolerably plentiful larder. ‘

Jr A boat with ten oars, thus hired, usually costs foilr ducats,
beside a few carlini to the boatmen for their dinner.

49% TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

Castelaa-mare and Vico ; but from the former place to the
commencement of the Plain of Sorrento, a distance of six
miles, there is only a mule-road ; and even for mules some
parts of it are dangerous: 3 good road for carriages, how-
ever, will shortly be opened. The Inn at Sorrento is so
bad that Travellers should provide themselves with wine
and a cold dinner, when they visit this town. Beds, by
the night, may generally be procured for Gentlemen, at
tlze Capuchin Convent, near the town; for Gentlemen and
Ladies, at the Concomella, once a Convent which belonged
to the Jesuits; and at Casa- Cesaro, in the village of S. Agnello.
The cliffs and promontory of Sorrento, when approached
from the Bay of Naples, are peculiarly picturesdue and
beautiful; exhibiting the Sz'rens’ Caves, now a bathing-
place; remains of the Temple (2f the Nerez'des, near the
Domenican Convent; ancient Batlzs, one of which is per-
fect; and considerable vestiges of the V z'lla quollio *. But
the temple of Ceres that once crowned this promontory,
called, in consequence, the Cape of Ceres, and the temples
of.Apollo, Minerva, &c.; which adorned other heights.
in the neighbourhood, are now levelled with the dust, or
engulphed by the Tyrrhene sea. When Tiberius kept his
court at Capri, Sorrento and its vicinity abounded with the
magniﬁcent villas of his courtiers: and when Bernardo
Tasso came to settle here, he found the town adorned with
handsome palaces, and the citizens so hospitable and kind
to Foreigners that he calls Sorrento “ L’Albergo della cor-
tesz'a;” speaks of the deliciousness of the fruit, the variety
and goodness of the ﬁsh, the excellence of the meat, and
then adds; “ L’am‘e é 32' sereno, sz' temperato, sz' salutg'fero,

* A Reservoir for Fish, several Corridors, a Kitchen, and
other remains of a large ediﬁce, may be traced here ; and. con-
tiguous to this ruin is thc‘Marinella of Pollio, so called at the

present day.

CRAP. x1. SORRENTO. 493

32' vitale, clze glz" uomz'm' senza provar altro cz'elo ciﬂbz'vono
sono quasi immm tal2': ” and most certainly there is no spot
in southern Italy so free from reﬂected heat during summer,
or so much calculated at all seasons to promote longevity,
as the plain of Sorrento. This plain, which is three miles
in length, and one in breadth, appears to be the mouth of
an extinct volcano; as it consists of deep hollows, rocks,
caverns, and small level spots of tufo: while the surrounding
mountains are all composed of lime-stone. Sorrento itself;
though reported to have "been once a larger city than
Naples, is now small; but contains, together with the
neighbouring villages, from eighteen to twenty thousand
inhabitants. The plain is one continued series of gardens,
divided from each other by lofty walls and intersected with
houses. These gardens, however, are not of the common
sort; for the pomegranate, the aloe, the mimosa, the mul-
berry, the apple, the pear, the peach, the sorbus, the vine,
the olive, the bay, the cypress, the wide spreading oak, ariﬁ
magniﬁcent maritime stone-pine, which peculiarlym

an Italian landscape, are so beautifully mingled and ﬂ
trasted with multitudes of 01 anges and lemons, that persons
standing on a height and looking down upon this plain,
might fancy it the garden of the Hesperides. Here is one
carriage-road three miles in length, and formed by means of
bridges thrown over the ravines; the other public paths are
narrow, and all lie between lofty walls, which, though in-
jurious to the beauty of the country, aﬁ'ord shade, even at
midday, during summer; and shelter from storms of Wind
during winter.

Sorrento has suffered so severely from earthquakes, war,
and rapine, that few of its antiquities remain. Its Walls
are said to have been the ﬁrst erected in Italy for the use of
cannon; its Streets exhibit ancient pavement, and resemble
those of Pompeii, as does the manner in which its houses

4194 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x1.

are $tructed. The Pedestal of an ancient Egyptian
statue (not long since perfect), mutilated Bassi-nlz'evz',
Columns, Sarcophagi, and Altars, may still be traced 1n
this town: but the object most interesting to St1angers is
the paternal Mansion of the immortal Torquato Tasso,
beautiquy situated on a cliff, supposed to have been the
site of an ancient Temple. On the outside of this Villa 1s
a mutilated Bust of Tasso, in terra-cotta. The quad1 angle
within contains some ﬁne Capitals and Bases of columns,
which probably belonged to the above-named Temple". Up-
stairs is a saloon, adorned with a Bust of Tasso, 1n marble,
placed on a column of granite; and a terrace commanding
a magniﬁcent view of the Bay of Naples; but the room
where Tasso was born 18 said to have fallen into the sea.
This house now belongs to the Duca di Laurito, who de-
scends in the female line from the Poet; and one of whose
Sons strongly resembles the Bust in the saloon. Between

rrento and Meta, and very near the former, are some
{I tiﬂuities which highly merit notice; namely, the Geek
,4 . ZlIirabzle; the Shape of which, the Arches, and the
W'il‘s, (apparently intended to ventilate this Reservoii)
may all be discove1 ed; though the centre has been recently
ﬁlled with earth, and converted into a gardenf; and the
Roman Piscz'na lllz'rabz'le, built, or repaired, by Antoninus
Pius, in the year one hundred and sixty, and quite perfect.
Here, likewise, are a considerable number of 1!?le, ap-
parently intendedg'to ventilate the Reservoir which still
supplies Sorrento and the Plain with excellent puriﬁed
water. Further on, in the way to Meta, is t/ze site of an

   

* Cornices, and an Altar, of the, same kind of marble, lie

neglected in an adjacent street.
T This Ruin is of an oval shape, and so similar to an amphi-

theatre, that nothing, but the adjacent \Vells, could lead any
person to suppose it was not one.

”Rm !

CHAP. xr. SORRENTO. 4.95,

ancient Temple, supposed to have been dedicated to worms;
and here are two myrtle-trees, so uncommonly large that
one could almost fancy them primeval with the Temple.
At the extremity of the Plain, and immediately under the
lime-stone mountains, is Meta,- a large Village containing
a handsome Church, beautifully situated, and near which
are several very old, largehand ﬁne Olive Trees, of a kind
seldom met with in Italy. .

The inhabitants of Sorrento and its vicinity still retain
the character given of th* by Berna1 do Tasso, with re-
spect to their great attention and kindness to Foreigners.
Hospitable, so far as making entertainments goes, they Can-
not be; having no longer the power; but their fruit, milk,
time, and best services, are always at the command of a
Stranger. Three or four generations of one family often
live together, under the same roof, according to the ancient
Grecian custom; and it is not uncommon to see grand:
fathers and grandmothers above ninety years old, and pets
fectly exempt from inﬁrmities: with respect to the health-
fulness of the climate, therefore, Bernardo Tasso seems
again to have judged right, and with regard to provisions,
veal, ﬁsh, butter, milk, fruits, and water, are all excellent;
and hog-meat is so remarkably ﬁne that hogs are deno-
minated The Citizens of Sorrento *. Lodging-houses may
easily be procured at reasonable prices in the Plain; but
they are generally ill-furnished: tile House ‘qf Captain
Stamce, at S. Agnello, is, however, most comfortably fur-
nished; and, what is more important still, its master unites
the wish with the capability of assisting Foreigners; in-
somuch that, when under his protection, they can never
want a fr.iend He has one or two smaller houses '1'. The

* The wine of Sorrento, if a twelvemonth old, is particularly
wholesome, though very weak.
1k This Gentleman likewise possesses an open carriage of the

496 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. xr.

VillaBC'Oriale, near the sea, is likewise let as a lodging-house;
and so is the Villa-Spinelli, at Ponte-Maggiore, near Meta.
The mountains which border the Plain of Sorrento abound
with beautiful walks and rides.

Massa, about four miles distant, seems once to have been
a considerable town; contains remains of an ancient Aque-
duct, Theatre, &c.; and is well worth seeing *.

Camaldolz', a suppressed, but once magniﬁcent Convent,
situated on a mountain about two miles from Meta, is like-
wise worth seeing; and the prﬁﬁnt owner allows Strangers,
who come provided with a cold dinner, to dine in the
refectory.

The Mountain above the Villa-Stinca, called Contz' dell:
Fontanelle e di Cm'menna, and about three miles distant
from S. Agnello, is extremely well worth seeing; as it
presents a most magniﬁcent view of the Bays of Naples
and Salerno, the three Islands of the Sirens, the coast near
Amalﬁ, &c. &c.: and during the month of September im-
mense nets for catching Quails are placed on this mountain;
below which is the Tunny-ﬁshery. The owner of the

dimensions common at Sorrento, and similar to those of the
carriages whose wheels have left tracks in the streets of Pompeii :
and with this little vehicle, which, from being less than four
feet wide, passes through narrow lanes without difﬁculty, he ac-
commodates any of his lodgers who may choose to hire it.
There are likewise, for hire, at Sorrento, a donkey-cart, several
mules, and two chaises-d-porteur. The usual price of a mule
and guide to go to Castel-a-mare and back, is eight carlini;
and to go to Massa, or a similar distance, from ﬁve to six
carlini, according to the time employed. The price of a chaise-
(‘z-portcur is from four to eight carlini, according to the distance.

* It cannot, however, boast of any Inn capable of giving ac-
commodations to Travellers, though good wine may be procured
at the wine-shops.

CRAP. XI. CAPRI. 497

Villa-Stinca allows persons who come provided with a cold
dinner to eat it in his house: and immediately above this
Villa stands a small Inn, where bread, wine, and a dining-
room, might be obtained *1

A pleasant water excursion from Sorrento is to Castel—a-
mare,- whither a Sorrento boat usually goes in an hour and
a quarter, and returns in about two hours. Castel—a-mare,
situated at the foot of 'the hill on which stood the ancient
Slabz'zz’, is a pretty town, encircled by a beautiful country;
and lately embellished with a‘handsome quay, made by the
French. V Here are several lodging houses, and a tolerably
good Restaurateur; but no inns ﬁt to sleep at. The site
of Stabiae may be traced; but nothing more; as the ex-
cavations made in that village have been all ﬁlled up. A
considerable number of Papyri were found in Stabiae; but
very few skeletons; therefore it is supposed the inhabitants
had time to escape, before the shower of ashes from Ve~
suvius entombed their dwelling-place f.

Another pleasant water excursion is to Capri. This

* The tea-tree is said to grow wild on the mountains near
Sorrento.

T Persons who have not visited Pompeii, would ﬁnd it a good
plan to disembark at Castel-a—mare, merely to see that town;
embark again, and go to the mouth of the Sarno; land there,
sending the boat back to wait at CasteI-a-mare: then walk to
Pompeii (a distance of about one mile), see the city, and return
by land to join the boat at Castel-a-mare. The distance from
the latter town to Pompeii is between three and four miles; and
persons who dislike walking so far, might order a carriage, or
donkeys, from Castel-a-mare to come to Pompeii and carry them
to the boat.

The price of a mule and guide to go over the mountains
from Sorrento to Castel-a-mare is eight carlini, buona-mano
inclusive.

K K

4‘98 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

Island, situated about three leagues and a half from Sor-
rento, and about eight from Naples, was anciently called
Caprwe, and is celebrated for having been the retiring—place
of Augustus, and the residence, during several years, of
Tiberius. It is nine miles in circumference, and contains
about nine thousand inhabitants, and two towns, Capri,
and Ano-Capri; the latter being situated on the summit of
a rock, to which there is an ascent of above five hundred
steps. The people chieﬂy consist of mechanics, husband-
men, and sailors; perfect equality reigns among them;
every body appears industrious; nobody seems poor; and
so salubrious is the climate that scarce any maladies visit
the island. The most comfortable way of managing this
excursion is to hire a ten-cared boat; taking a cold dinner,
bread, salad, fruit, plates, glasses, knives, forks, &c.; but
no wine; that being excellent at Capri; and setting out
very early in the morning; as sixteen hours are required
for rowing to the island, seeing every thing worth observa—
tion there, and returning. When Travellers land, donkeys
and mules are immediately brought down to the beach, for
their accommodation; and the best mode of proceeding is
to mount these animals, and ride to the Steps leading up to
Arm—Capri; dismounting at the steps; walking up, and
sending the mules and donkeys before. On arriving at
the top of the steps, you find a good mule-path, and may
therefore remount, and ride round Ano-Capri. On re-
turning to the steps, it is again prudent to dismount, and
walk down; sending the animals before. Having reached
the Plain, ride onwalk to Capri; and then proceed to a
Villa above the town, on the way to tlze eastern Promon-
twy, where stood lecrz'us’s Palace ,- dine in this Villa, the
owner of which will give the use of his house and kitchen,
and provide a large party with wine, for two ducats. After
dinner remount the mules, and ride to £129 Pz'scina oft/16

 

CHAP. x1. PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. 499

Palace,- where the water is delicious: then examine the
other Ruins, among which Baths and a T ﬁeatre are still
discoverable; and after having done this, return to the
beach. The town of Capri contains the Bishop’s Palace,
and two or three Convents; but no inn: there is, however,
a. private House, where Travellers may be provided with
beds. Immense ﬂights of Quails visit this island during
the month of September, and are caught by the inhabitants
to supply the Naples market.

The usual price of a ten or twelve—cared boat by the day,
at Sorrento, is from four to ﬁve ducats, including a dinner
for the boatmen, who are deemed the most skilful mariners
in Italy *1

EXCURSION TO THE ISLANDS 0F PROCIDA AND ISCHIA.

As good accommodations may be procured at lschia, in
the house of a gentleman known by the name of Don
Tommaso, the most comfortable manner of making this ex-
cursion is to hire a boat at Naples for two or three days,
visiting Procida ﬁrst, and Iscliia afterward. We pursued
this plan; taking a cold dinner with us, and determining
to dine at Procida and sleep at Ischia. As the weather was
warm, we set out early, and, after doubling the Cape of
Pausilipo, passed a picturesque Hermitage, together with
several ruins of ancient buildings; and, among others, those
commonly called T he Schools of Viigil, but conjectured to
have been a Villa belonging to Lucullus. We then rowed
under ﬁre Promontory of Misenum, to obtain a good View of
this great Harbour of the Romans, and arrived at Procida
in two hours and a half, from the time when we left Naples;
the distance being about four leagues. Procida, though a

* “'e paid for each mule and donkey, at Capri, six carlini;
to each guide two carlini, to the Cicerone half a piastre ; and
to the custom-house ofﬁcer three carlini.

x K 2

500 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XI.

small island, is remarkably populous; and its inhabitants
are reputed to be rich: the women dress in the Greek
style; the men wear Phrygian caps (as do all the mariners
in the Bay of Naples); and it is said they retain many of
the ancient Grecian customs. The grapes, ﬁgs, and wine
of Procida. are excellent; the houses ﬂat roofed, with ter-
races on the top; and the staircases generally on the outside
of thewalls. We were permitted to dine in a large shoot-
ing seat belonging to the king of Naples; and delightfully
situated on the brow of a clif? overhanging the sea. From
the landing-place to this royal Villa is a short mile; and
after contemplating the beautiful views in its vicinity, we
re—embarked, and proceeded to Ischia, anciently called
Inarz'me, and Pz'tecusa, and about six leagues distant from
Naples. According to some opinions Ischia is the offspring
of a volcano; and certainly it appears to have suffered
severely from volcanic eruptions; though, during the last
three hundred years, nothing of this kind has happened.
It is eighteen miles in circumference, and famed for
hot baths; which, in summer, are much frequented; and
likewise for mineral waters, supposed to have been in se-
veral cases salutary. The village of Forio contains a Chapel
which merits notice. The whole island is beautiful, and
from the heights of lWonte di Vico, and hionte d’Epopeo,
the views are particularly ﬁne.

Ischia produces some of the best wines in the vicinity of

Naples.

! $5:

501

CHAPTER XII.

RETURN TO ENGLAND, THROUGH GERMANY.

Journey from Rome tlzroug/I Perngia to Florence —- Objects

best wort}; notice on that road—Hannibal’s route into
Italy —— Journey/Gem Florence to Dresden — Ferrara —
Rovigo —— Patlna— Bat/is of Abano — Argua —— Venice—
Objects best wort/{y notice —— Clmrclzes of S. Marco —— S.
Georgia ZlIaggiore—Il Redentore—I I 7 eff— S. Inc——
S. JVIa-ria della Salute—I. Gesniti—S. Giovanni di Rialto’
—-S. Maria ﬁlaggiore~S Caterina—~Scuola della Caritd
—de’ Sarti—-diS. Rocco—Palazzi Ducale—JPisani—ZIIO-
reta —— Grimani ——Arsenal — T lzeatres—Inns— Water—
Promenades—Conegliano —~Pordenon — Tagliamento—S.
T ommaso — Ponteba — Cnstom-lzouse t/lere — Villaclz -—
Beds and provisions in Germany —- Table-linen —— Pea-
santry ——C0unt2y Towns, LET. —- Klagerzﬁtrt — Friesaclz—
Judenburg —— Leoben— ﬂierz/uyen —— Sc/zottwien —— T ras—
ln‘rken— Vienna ~ Cnstom-lzouse —— Hotels —Imperial Re-
sidence—~Catlzedral —C/mrclz(3 of S. Peter -—S. [Michael—
t/ze Augustins — Capnclzins —S. Charles and S. Rupert—
Imperial Arsenal, and otlier public buildings—Fountain—
Imperial Lib} 'aries—-Jewels——ll[edals — Cabinet of Natural
History — Belcedcre Gallery ofPaintings—Lichtenstein
Gallery —Porcelain lllannﬁcture—Prater—Lau Garten
—-Sclzoenbrunn - Coﬁ’e-lzouses— IVater— National disli—
Tbeatres—Popnlation —— Distance from Florence—Stocke-
rau——— ﬁnaim - Sc/ielletau — 13 Ian ——-Stec/cen-— Czaslau—
Planian—Pragne—Popnlation—Objects best wort/72 notice
~1nns—Budin ~ Lobositz ~— Aussig —Peterswald ——Imzs
between tlzat town and Dresden — Saxon Peasants—Cus-
tom-lzonse —— Dresden ~ Population -~ Architecture — Re—

502 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. xu.

ligion —C/zaracter oftlze Inhabitants—Jnns—Objects best

wortli a Traveller’s attention — Mode of obtaining admit-

tance to tlze Picture Gallery, (Sm—List of some of the most
striking pictures—Treasury —— Cabinet of antique Sculp-

ture—Dresden China—Theatres —Distance from Vienna

to Dresden — Dz'ttoLﬁom Dresden to Hambzn'g—quagc
down. the Elbe to tlze last-named City — Population of
Hamburg —— Description oftlze Town and Port—Inns—
Private Lodgings w Sagacity (f a Storlc — Voyage ﬁ'om
Hamburg to Czar/zawn—Harwiclz Packets—Prices—Dags
on w/zielz. these vessels sail —— Inns at Czlxlzave’n—Ditto at
H arwic/z.

VVISHING to see the Cascade ofTerni, and the celebrated
Lake of Trasymenus, we took the Perugia-road from Rome
to Florence; and found it so very interesting, that I shall
give a brief account of the objects best worth attention.

Civita—Castcllana, supposed by some writers to be the
ancient Veii, though more probably the ancient F eseennium,
was the ﬁrst town which attracted our notice; and is, in
point of situation, particularly strong and beautiful.

Narni, the next considerable town in this road, was for-
merly called hicquinum, from the obstinacy of its citizens;
who, during a siege, killed their wives and children, in order
to save their provisions; and, when all these were consumed,
chose rather to lay violent hands upon themselves than sur-
render. This place gave birth to the Emperor Nerva.

A little beyond Narni, and about a mile out of the road,
are remains of a magnificent Bridge, supposed to have been
thrown, by Augustus, over the river Nera (anciently the
Nar), for the purpose of uniting two bills. In order to
examine this stately ruin, we made our carriages wait in the
road to T erni, while we walked down the hill at whose foot

the bridge presents itself, lt consists of large stones joined

CHAP. x11. CASCADE or TERNI. 503

together without any cement or iron cramps, and cut, on
their outsides, into the form of diamonds. On the dry land,
next to Narni, is one entire arch, the piers of which are above
forty common paces asunder. The piers still remaining in
the water prove the immense size of the other arches; which
were not, however, of an equal diameter. The length of
this bridge is supposed to have been 850 Roman palmz’;
and a Roman architectural palmo is nearly nine English
inches. The distance between the piers of the ﬁrst arch is
computed to be 1001101322, and its height 150 ; the distance
between the piers of the second 180 palmi; that between
those of the third 150; and the last arch, which ends on the
other side of the Nera, is 190 palmi in breadth.

Terni derives its ancient name, Interanma, from the two
arms of the Nera, between which it is situated. Cornelius
Tacitus, and the Emperors Tacitus and Florianus, were
born in this city, which contains the ruins of an Amphi-
theatre in the Episcopal Garden, and those of a Temple of
the Sun, in the church of S. Salvadore. At S. Siro, in the
cellars of the College, are the remains of a Temple of Her-
cules,‘and in the Casz'na of the Casa-Spada, some ruins of
ancient Baths *.

Four miles from Terni is the famous Cascade, called
Caduta deZZe JlIarmore, and formed by the fall of the Velino
(anciently the Vclz'lzus), into the Nera. This cataract is said
to have been made about the year of Rome 671, by Curius
Dentatus, who, in order to drain the territory of Rieti of
its standing waters, cut channels, through which he dis-
charged them into the Velino, and thence into the Nera,
forming by these means a cascade, consisting of three leaps,
the ﬁrst computed to be 300 English feet, the two others,

* Near Terni stands Rieti, anciently Reczte, celebrated for its
Vale of Tempe.

504 TRAVELS on THE CONTINENT. CHAP. xu. '

united, between four and ﬁve hundred. Wishing to see
this cataract in perfection, we set out from Terni about ten
o’clock of a clear morning, and ascended the Monte (12' Mar-
more in calashes, till we approached the Velino, which an-
nounces itself at a considerable distance by its thundering
noise. VVe then walked to view the narrow pass through
which it rushes down the fall of 300 feet; and afterward
proceeded to a temple built on a promontory, for the purpose
of contemplating the three leaps together. Here we re-
mained till twelve o’clock; when the effect of the sun upon
water which, from the velocity of its fall, rises into vapours,
resembling millions of curled white feathers, is beautiful
beyond description; indeed, there are very few celestial
rainbows half so brilliant as the terrestrial ones at Terni.

After having seen these, we returned to the bottom of

the Monte di iVIarmore; and then dismounted from our
calashes, and walked to view the 'ataract from below.

\Ve paidfor each calash two Roman crowns, and gave
our guide ﬁre pauls. Persons who do not like to trust
themselves in a carriage, may ascend the Monte di Marmore
upon a mule, for which the price is ﬁve pauls.

Speleti, or .‘s'palez‘o (formerly Spoletum), is a very ancient
city, situated on the acelivity of a mountain, and watered by
the Clitumnus, celebrated in days of yore for the whiteness
of the cattle which grazed near it. The citizens of Spoleto
repulsed Hannibal immediately after the battle of Trasy-
menus; and they still preserve a gate, called Porta-Fuga,
with an inscription in memory of this event. The Cathedral
contains paintings, bassi—rilz'em', and ancient mosaics. The
Aqueduct is a beautiful Gothic fabric, supported by stone
arches, and, in one part, by a double arcade, said to be 300
feet high.

Between Spoleto and Foliguo, a few hundred paces from
Le Vene, is the Temple of Clitumnus, now converted into

an I,"

CHAP. x11. PERUGIA. 505

a chapel, and dedicated to S. Salvadore. The front toward
the plain is adorned with four Corinthian pillars, and pilas-
ters ; the edifice is oblong, and on the roof are the following
words cut in stone; “ T. Septz'mz'us Plebez'us *.”

Foligno, anciently Fulgz'nas, stands on the Via Flaminia;
and contains a Cathedral, the altar and frescos in which
merit notice.

Between Foligno and Perugia lies Assisi (anciently Als-
sz'sz'um), the birth-place of S. Francesco-1‘. It is situated on
a hill so near to the great road, that Travellers may visit it
with ease. The church of S.‘ Francesco, in this city, contains
several pictures of the old school, worth notice. The LIO-
nastery of F rancescan nuns, called the nuns of S. Clare,
likewise deserves attention; and the Church of S. Maria,
or the inlzpz'm', once a temple of Minerva, is a beautiful
piece of antiquity. .

Pa'ugia (anciently Augusta Perusz'a), the capital of the
rich and charming province of Umbria, and once the
strongest city of Etruria, contains many antiquities worth
seeing, beside a considerable number of paintings by Pietro
Perugino, &c.: but, exclusive of this, it is advisable for
Travellers to sleep here, in order to avoid passing a night at
Torricella. Perugia is magniﬁcently situated on the summit
of a lofty mountain of the Apennine, and seems by nature

* It does not appear certain that the present chapel of S.
Salvadore was anciently the temple of Clitumnus. Pliny places
this temple near the source of the river: and Suetonius says that
Caligula went to Mevania to see the temple of Clitumnus. The
small town of Bevagna unquestionably stands upon the site of
the ancient Mevania, which lies to the west of the river Timia,

and at the inﬂux of the Tacarena and Rucciano into the Cli-
tumnus.

1* Metastasio also was born at Assisi.

506 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. X11.

almost impregnable: such, indeed, was the strength of this
city, and such the valour of its inhabitants, that Hannibal
did not venture to attack it, even after having gained the
important battle of Trasymenus: and, to this moment, the
Perugians are famed for being the most daring and ferocious
of the Roman people.

Between Torricella and Camuscia, at ﬁve miles distance
from the former, is the miserable village of Passz'gnano,
rendered famous by the above-named victory gained near
this spot by Hannibal, 217 years before Christ.

Six miles further on, is the Ponte-Sangm'nelto, situated
below a village of the same name, and both so called from
the effusion of Roman blood spilt there.

Between Passignano and Sanguinetto, 1716 site of the
Roman camp, and the Pass through which Hannibal came
down from the heights, may be discovered.

Four miles further on is Spilonga, a small hamlet on the
conﬁnes of Tuscany; and three miles from Spilonga, stands
Ossaia, where, on a house in the street, is the following
inscription.

“ r 'omen Izabel locus hic Ossaia, ab ossilms illis
“ Qua: dolus Amzibalisfudit 8; hasta simul.”

“ This place bears the name of Ossaia, from the bones of
those unfortunate men whom Hannibal slew here.”

Ossaia is by many writers supposed to have been the
actual ﬁeld of battle; though, perhaps, it rather was the hill
to which the small remains of F laminius’s troops retired;
because, thirteen miles, the reputed distance between Pas-
signano and Ossaia, seems too large a space for the contend-
ing armies to have occupied. It is impossible to view the
country between Passignano and Ossaia, without feeling the
highest admiration of the military skill of Hannibal; who

contrived, on an enemy’s ground, to draw that enemy into a

a

can. xu. HANNIBAL’s ROUTE INTO ITALY. 507

narrow, swampy, and uncommonly foggy plain, where no
army, however brave, could long have defended itself: for
on three sides are heights which were possessed by the troops
.of Carthage; and, on the other, is a large unfordable
lake.

‘ ()n the hill above Camuscia, and within the distance of a
walk, stands Corinna (formerly Can't-us), said to be the most
ancient 0f the twelve great cities of Etruria, and famed, in
the days of Pythagoras, for the bodily strength of its inha-
bitants and the salubrity of its air. In the Cathedral is a
large antique SarcophagUS, supposed to be that of the un-
fortunate Consul Flaminius; and representing the battle of
the Lapithae with the Centaurs. Many of the churches are
curious in point of architecture; and most of them contain
good pictures, both of the old and new school. Several of
the private houses contain valuable paintings. The ancient
Etruscan \Valls of this city are in some places discoverable;
they were formed of immense blocks of marble, without any
cement whatsoever; and, in the museum of the academy,
and in those which belong to the nobles of Cortona, are
other Etruscan antiquities.

Arezzo (anciently Aretz'um) is remarkable for the exten-
sive view from its fortress; and remains of the ancient
Amphitheatre are still to be seen. Arezzo gave birth to
Petrarca.

As the subject of this chapter has led me to speak of
Hannibal, I will subjoin a detail of what appears to have
been his route into Italy, which I have traced from an ancient
map as far as Embrun upon the river Durance in Dauphiné,
and afterward founded upon the authority of Polybius,
strengthened by the present appearance of the ground.

Hannibal set out in the midst of winter U. C. 536, with

an army of 50,000 foot, and 9,000 horse, beside elephants,
from

 

508 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. ‘ CHAI’. x11.

(Ancient Names.) (Modem Names.)
Sepia - - - Centa, in Africa, a sea-port, and crossed to
Fretum Ercu- The Straits of Gibraltar; whence he pro-
leum bably proceeded by sea to

Calpe - - - Targfﬂ'a, t/ze Pillar ofHercules in Europe.-

, then passed through the '

Country of the The Kingdom of Granada, in Spain, to
Bastnli

Malaca - - lVIalaga ,- and thence proceeded through the
Country of tile The Kingdom ofﬂim'cz'a, to the camp of
Bastz'ani Spartarius, thence going to

Cartan-nova Cart/2a ena and traversiim’ the
o g 3 O
Provinceo Con- 1726 Kz'nrrdom o I’alentz'a to

C

testanorum
Alone’* - - Alicant; at which sea-port it seems pro-
bable that he embarked his troops, and
passed up the river
Sucre - — - Segnra, or Xucar, to

Valencia, thence proceeding along the river
I barns - - - Ebro, through the
Country of tile The Principalin of Catalonia, to
Illercaones

Tan'aco, or T arragona, and

Tan'ago
Cartago- Vetus Villa-Franco.- he then crossed the
Rnbrz'catus - The River Llobregaz‘, proceeded to, and

crossed, the

Gemnda - - T be River Gerona, and then came to
Rhoda - - - Rosas: though some authors assert, that

he followed the course of the Gerona to
the Pyrenean mountains, and crossed
thence into Gaul. From Roses, how-
ever, according to the map, he went to

* Called, by some authors, Luccm'um.

CHAP. XII.

(Ancient Names)
V enerz's Fanum
Catacoliberis, or

I [liberis

Narbo— - _

Agni/Ia.- - -
ZVemausus -

Rhodanns -
Avenz'o — -
T [16 country of
the Cassuares
Augusta Tm;
castrz'nonum
Dmentia - -
Embrodunus -
.Mons Vesulus

or Visns

Pinarolum -

Podns - - -
Alba-Pompeia
Don‘ona, - -

HANNIBAL’S ROUTE INTO ITALY.

509

(Modern Names.)

Port Vendres, thence to

Collioure, in the Province of the Volcre
Teclosages, or Rossiglz'one; thence he
proceeded to ~

Narbonne, tile count-1y (ft/1e Bebricas, and
thence to

Jllontpellz'er and

Nismes ,- when, passing through the country
of the V olca’ Arecomz'z', he proceeded to
the banks of the

lee Rhone, down which river he passed to

Avignon ,- thence traversing

Provence, to Danp/ziné, the country of the
Allolnoges ; thence he proceeded to

S. Paul-troz's-C/zateaux,
by the river

and then went

Durance, to

Embrnn; whence he marched to, and crossed
AIonzfe V z‘so, one of the great Alps, said
to be 9997 English feet in height, but not
so diﬁicult of access as are many of those
mountains; it lies almost in a direct line
with Embrun, and the road to it is nOt
strongly guarded by narrow deﬁles, as are
many passages into Italy.——Thence he
went to

Pz'gnerol, a city of Upper Daup‘hiné, about
twenty miles from Turin; thence he fol—
lowed the course of the

Po, then went to

Aloe

Tortonn, and

510 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CIIAP. XII.

(Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.)
Tz'cz'num - - Pavia; crossed the river
Trebz'a, subdued
Placenza,
Pm‘ma,
Regz'um - - The Kingdom quodena, and

ﬁlutz'na - - Marlena itself; then came to
Fwsulw - - Fz'esole ,- thence proceeded to
Aretz'um - - Arezzo; and thence to

Trasz'meme - The lake of Perugia, or Trasymenus.

Hannibal is supposed to have passed through Gaul to
the foot of the Alps in ten days. It seems an impos-
sibility that he should have reached the Fenestrelles, Cenis,
S. Bernard, or S. Gothard, in so short a time. It likewise
seems improbable that he should have rejected the passage
of Monte Viso, which lay directly before him, to search for
some other at a greater distance; especially as his only route
to that other was through narrow and dangerous defiles.
He is said, by Polybius, to have passed through the country
of the Allobroges, over an immense Alp, whence he saw and
pointed out to his soldiers the rich and beautiful plains of
Italy; after which he immediately descended into valleys
Watered by the P0.

All this exactly describes Viso, on the Italian side of
which lie the plains of Piedmont, and through these plains
runs the Po; which rises at the foot of Monte Viso. Po-
lybius likewise says, the ﬁrst city taken by Hannibal in Italy
was Turin; and that, too, might be; for Turin is only
twenty miles distant from Pignerol.

When I was at Lausanne, I consulted Gibbon, who
resided there, with respect to this route; and he seemed to
think it might probably be that pursued by Hannibal: more-
over, a friend of mine, who ascended Viso, told me, the
plains of Italy were discernible from its summit. On this

CHAP. x11. FERRARA. 511

point, however, I cannot speak from my own knowledge;
as I only visited the base of the mountain.

From Florence to Dresden we travelled en voiturz'er; and
though our time of setting out was the middle of April, yet,
even at that mild season, the wind on the Apennine, be-
tween Florence and Bologna, was so piercing that a lady of
our party became, in consequence, alarmingly ill: and like-
wise, in passing through Germany, she suffered severely
from stoves, which are universally substituted for ﬁre-places;
from damp beds; for there are no warming-pans, nor any
other machine for drying beds in Germany; from the keen
air of the Alps between Venice and Vienna; from the
severity of the climate in Moravia and Bohemia; and from
the excessive roughness of the roads between Prague and
Dresden. Nevertheless, we endeavoured to guard against
some of these inconveniences, by providing ourselves with
fur travelling caps, warm pelisses, shoes and boots lined with
fur, and great coats, which we were glad to put upon our
beds in lVIoravia and Bohemia; where there are no cover-
lids, except small eyder-down quilts, which generally slip
off ere the night be half spent. But, notwithstanding every
precaution that prudence can suggest, it seems to me im-
possible for invalids, in general, and especially those who
are afﬂicted with pulmonary complaints, to attempt taking
this journey without risk to their lives.

As I have already given an account of the road between
Florence and Bologna, I shall only say that, after remaining
a short time at the last-named place, we proceeded, in eight
hours and a half, to Ferram; through a good road, and a
remarkably rich country. lVIidway between this city and
Bologna is a neat and pleasant inn, called Il Tedo, where
Travellers may dine, or sleep. Between ll Tedo and Fer-
rara, we crossed the Reno, anciently Bhenus.

Ferrara is a fortiﬁed town, celebrated for containing the

512 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CH‘AP. XII.

tomb of Ariosto; which was originally placed in the Bene-
dictine church, but is now removed to the Lyceum. The
churches here contain some ﬁne pictures, by Guercino, and
the Caracci school. The inn where ‘we slept, I tre Mari, is
a good one; but the climate of Ferrara is unwholesome, and
the water bad ””1

Our next day’s journey was to Rovz'go ; whither we were
eight hours and a half in going. Soon after quitting Fer-
rara we ferried over the Po, a dangerous river when swelled
by rain. We then crossed the Canal Bianca in a ferry;
and to this Canal the road is good; but hence to Rovigo
very bad after rain. The Inn at Rovigo (S. JVIarco) is clean
and comfortable. We slept here; and proceeded next day,
in nine hours and a quarter, to Padua (in Italian Padova);
stopping, however, to dine at a village about mid-way,
called Monselese, where La Pasta is a comfortable inn, and
a good dining or sleeping-place. The road to Monselese is
ﬂat, sandy, and bad after rain; but thence to Padua good;
and, though ﬂat, pretty.

Padua, the birth—place of Livy, is large and strongly for—
tiﬁed; but not particularly handsome, the University ex-
cepted, which was built by Palladio and Sansovino. This
University, founded by the Emperor Frederick H, in oppo-
sition to that of Bologna, once contained eighteen thousand
students; and still possesses public Schools, a Museum, a
chemical Laboratory, an anatomical Theatre, a botanic
Garden, and an economical Garden, which merit the notice
of Travellers.

Tile Smm'narz'o contains a descent from the cross, by
Bassano.

* Boats large enough to accommodate a moderate-sized
family may be hired at Ferrara, for six or seven sequins, to go
to Venice; and this voyage occupies about twenty hours.

cum. xn. PADUA. 513

The Scuola del Carmine contains two paintings, by
Titian.

T ﬁe Palazzo della Ragimze contains an immense town-
hall, said to be the largest in Europe; the ceiling was
originally painted by Giotto and his scholars, and retouched,
in 1762, by Zannoni. Over one of the doors in this apart-
ment is a statue of Livy.

Tile Palazxo dd Podesta contains a painting, by Palma
il Giovane, of our Saviour blessing the city of Padua.

T/ze Duomo contains a hiadonna, by Giotto, which once
belonged to Petrarca; and in the Sacristy is a bladonna,
by Titian, Saints Francesco and Girolamo, by Palma il
Giovane, and the portrait of Petrarca among the other-
Canons.

T/ze Francescan Church, dedicated to S. Antonio di Pado—
va, was begun by Niccolo Pisano, in 1255, and ﬁnished in
1307: it contains statues of Cardinal Bembo and other
eminent Characters; ﬁne bassi-rz'lz‘evz', by T. and A. Lom-
bardo, Sansovino, Campagna, Vellano di Padova, and Dona-
tello; a Cruciﬁx, by Donatello, and Frescos by Giotto.
'l'he adjoining Scuola contains three Frescos, by Titian;
and in the area before the Church is an equestrian statue,
by Donatello, of the famous General, surnamed Gattamelata.

ch Clmrc]; dedicated to S. Gz'ustz'na, built by Andrea
Riccio, and deemed a ﬁne specimen of‘ architecture, is
adorned with a celebrated Painting over the high-altar by
Paolo Veronese, together with beautiful bassi-rz'lz'evz', said to
have been executed by Reichard, a French artist: ‘they
ornament the Stalls in the Choir.

T/ze C/zurc/z called Ercnzz'zfanz', and dedicated to Saints
Philip and James, contains a Chapel painted by Andrea
Mantegna, and a Sacristy adorned with a picture of S. John
Baptist, by Guido.

L L

514 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XII.

The Church of S. Croce contains an Assumption, by Tin-
toretto.

The Church of S. Gaetano, built by Scamozzi, contains
Paintings by Palma il Giovane, and a Pieta‘, by Titian:
and the Church of La Maddalena contains Paintings, by
Paolo Veronese.

The village of Abano, anciently Apom'um, between four
and ﬁve miles from Padua, is much frequented during
summer, on account of the VVarm Baths in its neighbour-
hood; where the Sudatory, and Bagno di Fango, or Mud
Bath, are said to have proved, in many cases, beneﬁcial *1
About ﬁve miles from Abano is the Villa Cara/'0, celebrated
for Frescos by Paolo Veronese. , One mile from Catajo is
the little town of Bataglia, so named from the rapid conﬂux
. of two rivulets: and about three miles from Bataglia lies
Argua, or Arquato, famous for having been the residence
and burial place of Petrarca.

After sleeping at the Stella d’ora at Padua, a very com-
fortable inn, we drove next morning, in six hours and a
half, to Mestré; through a good road. At Mestré we left
our carriages; and then embarked in a gondola, which
conveyed us to Venice, in less than two hours, for about
thirteen pauls, buona mano inclusive 1L.

* It seems doubtful whether Pliny, by the Fontes Pataw'n'i,
means the present baths of Abano; because he reports the
former to have emitted smells from which the latter are
exempt.

'l~ Instead of pursuing the above-mentioned route, I would
counsel Invalids, should the weather prove favourable, to embark
at Francolino, which is ﬁve miles from Ferrara, and go all the
way to Venice by water 5 a voyage of eighty miles on the Po,
the Adige, the Brenta, and the Lagunes, which is usually per-
formed in about twenty hours. Carriages must, however, go
over-land.

anp. x11. VENICE. 515

Venice, one of the most considerable cities in Italy, and
supposed to derive its name from the V eneti, who peopled
the neighbouring coasts, is built upon piles in the midst of
shallows, called Lagmzes, and reputed to contain a hun-
dred and ﬁfty thousand inhabitants.

It is scarce possible to discover the magniﬁcent ediﬁces
of Venice ﬂoating as it were, on the bosom of the deep,
without exclaiming; Singular and beautiful city ! of whose
appearance imagination can form no idea, because no other
work of man is like thee. Enchantment seems to have
raised thy walls for the abode of the monarch of the ocean,
when he chooses to desert his pearl paved caves, and
emerge above the surface of his watery kingdom !

Venice is seven miles in circumference, and composed of
a large number of small islands, separated by four hundred
canals, and re—united by a still larger number of bridges;
the great canal, which is in the form of an S, dividing the
City into two nearly equal parts. The Rialto, the Piazza
di S. Marco, containing the Church dedicated to that
Evangelist, with its celebrated Horses of bronze gilt, and
Campanile three hundred feet in height, together with all
the Churches and Palaces erected by Palladio, Sansovino,
Scamozzi, and San hIichele, particularly merit notice; as
does the Arsenal, though it has suffered severely from the
French: but what excites most interest at Venice is to
observe how amply and conveniently this city is supplied,
not only with the necessaries but the luxuries of life;
though it possesses naturally neither soil nor fresh water.

The Church of S. Marco is curious from being com-
pletely incrusted with ancient hiesaics: over the high altar
are Greek paintings; the Pavement is mosaic, and the
Doors, which were brought from Constantinople, are Co-
rinthian brass. The celebrated bronze Horses, carried to
Paris by Napoleon, but now returned, and replaced on the

L L 2

516 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. GIAP. XII.

outside of the church, are four in number; and, according
to general opinion, the work of Lysippus: they originally
adorned Corinth; where, it is supposed, they belonged to
the chariot of the sun: from Corinth they were brought to
Rome by the Consul Mummius, (surnamed Achaicus, for
having sacked the ﬁrst mentioned city;) thence they were
removed to Byzantium, and thence to Venice 9“.

S. Gim'gz'o Maggiore, built by Palladio in a style of grand
simplicity, contains a painting, by J. Bassano, of the Adora-
tion of the Shepherds; which, though very dirty, merits
notice, the light from the body of the child being wonder-
fully managed.

Il Bedenz‘ore, built by Palladio, is a simple, elegant, and
magniﬁcent piece of architecture: it contains a picture of
the Nativity, by F. Bassauo; and in the Sacristy is apaint-
ing of the hladonna, our Saviour, and two Angels, by Gion
vanni Bellino.

I Frati contains an Assumption, by Titian, which is
placed in a bad light, smoked, and dirty; but the com-
position appears to be remarkably ﬁne ;—-a BIadonna and
Infant Jesus, by the same master; (this last picture was
much studied by Rubens and Vandyck;)' and, in the Sa-
cristy, a painting by Giovanni Bellino.

S. Rocco is adorned with six excellent paintings by Tin-
toretto; that which represents S. Rocco healing the sick
being particularly ﬁne! In an Arch, opposite to the last
named picture, is a work by Pordenonc, representing Saints
Cristofano and lVIartino on horseback !

S. .Marz'a della Salute contains the descent of the Holy
Ghost, by Titian, painted when he was sixty-four; and, on

* The Treasury of the Church of S. Marco is said to contain
the Gospel of S. Mark, written with his own hand; and a
Missal adornedwith Miniatures, by Giulio Clovio.

CHAP. x11. VENICE. 517
the ceiling of the Sacristy, the death of Abel !-—the sacriﬁce
of Abraham l—and the victory of David over Goliath l—all
by the same master. S. Mark, S. Sebastiano, S. Rocco,
&c. are likewise by Titian, and ﬁne specimens of his ﬁrst
manner.

I Gesuz'ti, a noble church, though too much loaded with
ornaments, contains an Assumption, by Tintoretto.

S. Giovanni a'i Bialto is adorned with a celebrated picture
of the Patron Saint of Venice giving aims to the poor, by
Titian 1!! This work abounds with portraits, executed
with that truth and character which distinguish the paint-
ings of the last—named artist; while the composition is ,
simple, and perfectly adapted to the subject.

S. Illaria Maggz'ore contains an interesting picture of S.
John Baptist, by Titian !

S. Caterina is adorned with various paintings on the
VValls, representing the life of the Saint, and executed with
great force, by Palma i1 Giovane. Over the high altar is
the marriage of S. Catherine, by Paolo Veronese; the com-
position of which is graceful, and the drawing more correct
than usual with this master, but the, light is too equally
diffused. Here, likewise, is a picture of Tobit and the
Angel, supposed to be either by Titian or Santo Zago.

T/zc Scuola della Caritd contains the presentation of the
hiadonna, by Titian!!! a work full of harmony, richness,
and truth; the landscape in the back-ground is sublime;
the attitudes of the priests are grand and simple; and the
old woman selling eggs, in front of the picture, appears
quite alive.

The Scuola de’ Sarti contains a Frieze which goes round the
apartment, and is remarkable for being the ﬁrst public work
of Tintoretto; the subject is the life of S. Barbara; here like-
wise is a picture of S. John, S. Barbara, &C. by Giorgione.

T/zc Scuola di S. Rocco contains the largest and best

518 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XII.

works of Tintoretto, who painted in this school for thirty
years. The most celebrated of these works are—the An-
nunciation—the slaughter of the Innocents—and the ﬂight
into Egypt. The composition of the ﬁrst is peculiarly
ﬁne, because strictly conformable to Scripture; the blessed
Mother of our Redeemer being represented as the in-
habitant of a humble cottage, instead of being placed in a
splendid apartment, which is too frequently the practice;
the furniture is wonderfully executed; and the ﬁgure of the
Angel replete with grace and enthusiasm. This school
contains many other works by Tintoretto, Titian, 81c.

The Palazzo Ducale contains, in the grand council-
chamber, the largest picture in the known world, executed
by Tintoretto, and serving as an example to show how
entirely great talents may be thrown away from want of
proper attention to methodical arrangement; the whole
performance exhibiting a mass of confusion, though it
abounds with ﬁne groups, and in some parts is wonderfully
executed. ‘

Tile Palazzo—Pisani—JlIorez‘a contains Alexander with the
family of Darius, by Paolo Veronesell a picture which
seems composed in deﬁance to classical knowledge and
pure taste; but, nevertheless, so harmonious is the colour-

.

mg, and so beautiful the painting, that it is impossible to
contemplate this work without forgetting all its faults, and
dwelling only on its excellencies.

Tile Palazzo-Gv‘z'mam' contains, in the Court below, a
colossal statue of l\Iarcus Agrippa, which was originally
placed in the vestibule of the Pantheon, at Home. This
statue is Greek workmanship, and much admired ! l—op-
posite to it is a colossal statue of Augustus—here, like-
wise, is a celebrated basso-rilz'evo of a little drunken Bac-
chus, and another, unﬁnished, of two Sea horses. Above—

staz'rs. First room—a colossal statue of a Roman Consul ! !

CHAP. x11. VENICE. 519

and two Bassi-rilz'eviu—a bust of Vitellius ! l—and another
of Caracalla. T Izird room—an oval in the centre of the
Ceiling, by Giorgione—other parts by Giovanni da Udine.
Fgﬂ/z room—a Ceiling, said to be by Raphael and Giovanni
da Udine—an antique head of Hercules. Sixth room—a
small picture of a Love, by Guido. Nint/z room—a colossal
statue, the Pedestal of which is reckoned curious. Tent/z
room—a Ceiling, by Giovanni da Udine; the subject, trees
and animals; the execution is fine, but the delineation of
trees on a ceiling seems absurd—antique Bassi—rz'lz'evi.
Eleventh room—a ﬁne Table of Florentine work. Tweng/z
room (beautiful in point of architecture, and built by San-
sovino)—a ﬁne Table of touchstone—a small collection of
Antiquities from Pompeii, 8:0. The Staircase is painted by
Giovanni da Udine; The composition for the ﬂoors of the
apartments here, and all over the Venetian state, is very
pretty.

The Arsenal, which occupies an Island nearly three miles
in circumference, is so well defended by lofty walls, turrets,
8tc. as to resemble a fortress. Its principal entrance is
adorned by the winged Lion of Venice, and an enormous
Lion in white marble; both taken from the Piraeus at
Athens; and two Lionesses, taken from Corinth. The
objects best worth notice within the walls are; a Madonna
in beautiful marble, by Sansovino, and the Armory.

Venice contains two Theatres; (one of which is always
open three times a week; and the other occasionally, for
the exhibition of operasz) it likewise contains several inns,
namely, Petrillo’s—La Grande Bretagne—Le Grand Paris
—Les trois Rois—La Reine d’Angleterre, Sac. The gold
chains made in this city are particularly beautiful, and the
wax candles remarkably good.

Persons who are anxious to obtain good water here, pur—
chase that which is brought daily from the term ﬁrma.

520 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XII.

The Rialto, the Piazza di S. Marco, and the Walk
made by the French, are the only Promenades at Venice.

On the day of our departure we dined at Petrillo’s, then
went in a gondola to Mestré, slept there; and the next
morning early, set out for Conegliano, where we arrived in
nine hours and three quarters. About ten miles from
Mestré lies Treviso, to which city the road is good. Be—
yond Treviso we passed the Piave; and after crossing the
spot where one of Napoleon’s great battles was fought, pro—
ceeded, through an indifferent road, to Conegliano. The
latter town is rather large, and La Pasta a good inn.

Our next day’s journey was to Pordenon, which we were
seven hours and three quarters in reaching; the road
between this place and Conegliano being bad at all times,
and after rain dangerous, as it lies close to the foot of the
Alps, from which mountains torrents of water frequently
descend, and inundate the adjacent country. La Pasta, at
Pordenou, is a good inn: here we slept; and next morning
proceeded in nine hours to S. Tommaso. Our road, as far
as Spilimbergo, lay near the Alps, and through the bed of
a torrent, disagreeable at all times, and unsafe after rain.
From Spilimbergo we descended into the Tagliamento, a
most tremendous torrent after rain, but in dry weather
fordable. It takes a full hour to travel through this water,
with the assistance of oxen and guides *; and though the
weather, before we crossed, had long been dry, the different
streams of which the T agliamento is composed were wide
and rapid, insomuch as to be very disagreeable. Soon
after fording this torrent, we passed a town called S. Ag—

* Our Voituricr paid, for three guides and two oxen, one
sequin.

A ﬁne bridge has been lately thrown over the Tagiiamento;
but is not, I believe, yet completely ﬁnished.

(.‘HAP. XII. GERMANY. ‘ 521

nello, a little beyond which is the village of S. Tommaso.
The road on this side the Tagliamento is good; the inn at
S. Tommaso bad.

Our next day’s journey was to Ponteba, or Pontafel,
whither we were twelve hours in going. We took the
road by Osoppo, that being deemed the best; though even
that, as far as L’Ospedaletto, is rough and dangerous,
especially for the ﬁrst ten miles. At L’Ospedaletto, we
entered a deﬁle of the Alps, which leads to Vcnzone, a
pretty town, embosomed in these mountains; and hence to
Resiuta we found the road, which lies parallel with the bed
of the T agliamento, excellent, the views sublime, and the
Alpine plants, which enamel the rocks, particularly beau-
tiful The inn at Resiuta is clean and comfortable; but
the water here, as in most parts of the Alps, is bad; and
many inhabitants of this country, especially women, are
aﬂiicted with immense goitrous swellings. At Resiuta we
began to pass bridges made of wood, and covered at the
top; there are ﬁve or six of them in this part of the Alps;
and in Germany, likewise, all the bridges are made of
wood, though not all covered at the top. From Resiuta,
which is somewhat above halfway to Ponteba, the road
lies through deﬁles of the Alps, near the bed of the Tag-
liamento, and is good, though too narrow; the views are
sublime.

Ponteba, the frontier town of Carinthia, is a miserable
place; and here our luggage underwent so rigorous an
examination in the open street, before we were suffered to
drive to the inn, that it required Argus’s eyes not to be
plundered of every thing valuable our trunks contained,
and Herculean strength to unpack and re—pack, after the
fatigue of a twelve hours” journey: such, indeed, is the in—
convenience Travellers must necessarily be exposed‘to at
this custom-house, that I would advise nobody to pass
Ponteba who can possibly go another way; it being the

522 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. cunnxn.

great object of the custom-house ofﬁcers ,to thieve; for
which purpose, they endeavour to throw small parcels on
the ground, under the carriages, and even examine coach—
seats, writing-boxes, and letters. They seize gold and silver
lace, snuﬂ“, and tobacco; and for unmade silks, gauzes, &c.
they oblige you to deposit double the worth, to be paid
back, however, when you quit the Imperial territories *.
They accept no fees; and are .slower in their operations
than it is possible to conceive.

After sleeping at Ponteba, where the inn is a bad one,
we proceeded in ten hours and a quarter to Villach, through
a wide deﬁle of the Alps, and found the road good, and the
country beautiful, every mountain being clothed to its
summit with noble ﬁr-trees. The German villages, how-
ever, at the foot of the mountains, in some measure spoil
the beauty of the scene, as nothing can be more uncouth
than the wooden buildings which compose them, except the
fences, which are, if possible, still worse. The houses are
roofed with wood; and the consequence is, that these
awkward ediﬁces are continually burnt to the ground. The
Germans seldom have a wash-hand basin in any of their
country inns; and even at Villach, a large town, we could
not ﬁnd one. The inn we slept at, however, (its sign,
The Crown) is clean and good; though tall people cannot
sleep comfortably, either here or in any part of Germany;
the beds, which are very narrow, being placed in wooden
frames, or boxes, so short, that any person who happens to
be above ﬁve feet high must absolutely sit up all night,
supported by pillows; and this is, in fact, the way in which

the Germans sleep.

* Your silks, &c. are plumbed; you are asked, what road
you purpose taking? and you then receive an order for the
money you have deposited to be returned at the custom—house

on the conﬁnes.

CHAP. x11. GERMANY. 523

With respect to provisions, we found no cause for com-
plaint; meat, bread, and wine, (somewhat like Moselle)
beer, soup and bouillie, sour-crout, stewed prunes, coffee,
and milk, being excellent; and water, generally speaking,
good. The usual dinner-hour is twelve o’clock; at which
time Travellers may always ﬁnd something to eat at the inns,
German cookery being simple and wholesome. One re-
quisite to a comfortable meal it is, however, very diﬂicult to
obtain, namely, clean table-linen: we, indeed, were obliged
to purchase a couple of table-cloths and six napkins on our
journey; so much were we disgusted by the dirty linen
which was produced every where, except in the very large
towns.

Women, in this country, seem to work harder than men;
and at public—houses female servants not only cook the
dinner, and wait at table, but even. feed the horses. The
peasantry have ﬁne complexions, with a great appearance
of health and strength, but their countenances seldom ex—
prcss good-humour, or quickness of apprehension; they
dress neatly, and wear high shoes, like those of our En-
glish farmers. The women are said to be depraved in their
11101als.

l\Iost of the count1y towns through which we passed
consist of straight streets, with a large squa1e in their centre,
adorned by an obelisk, statues of the Madonna, our Saviour,
SEC. The German horses are remarkably strong and hand-
some; and the whole country, from Ponteba to Vienna,
wears the face of wealth, more, perhaps, than any other
pait of Europe.

The passing th1ough this part of Germany seems like
living some hund1 ed years ago in England , as the dresses,
customs, and manners, of the people precisely resemble
those of our ancestors. lVIany of their implements of hus—
bandry, also, appear similar to our’s; and their kitchens

524: TRAVELS ON THE CON'I‘INEN'I'. cuar. x11.

are furnished with plates, dishes, basins, and ewers of
pewter, and wooden trenchers, exactly like those which may
still be seen among us, in old farm-houses. The herbs and .
shrubs, also, resemble those of England, except that bar-
berry~bushes are substituted for blackberries; while the
ﬁrs grow so luxuriantly, that young plants, a few inches
high, literally carpet the woods.

The road from L’Ospedaletto to Villach possesses one
great advantage, that of being perhaps the only approach
to Italy which does not lie over the summits of the Alps.
It is, indeed, remarkable, that although we were surrounded
by these ‘ cloutLeapt’ mountains the whole of the way, we
seldom, if ever, descended a hill steep enough to render a
drag-chain necessary; neither (lid we perceive any fault in
the road, its narrowness excepted.

From Villach we proceeded to Klagenfurt, in eight
hours and a half, through a good road, and a ﬁnely cul—
tivated and strikingly beautiful country, adorned with a
noble sheet of water, called the Lake of Fel. The vallies
are variegated with small villages and rustic churches, like
those of England; the near mountains clothed to their
summits with ﬁrs and other trees, while behind them rise
Alps covered with eternal snow.

Klagenfurt is a large and strongly fortiﬁed city; the
houses are tolerably neat, and the spires of the churches
built in the Turkish style, and covered with white metal.
We slept at The Golden Star, which is a tolerable inn, and
next day proceeded, in nine hours and a half, to Friesaeh,
through an excellent road, and a bold, ﬁnely wooded, and
richly cultivated country. In the way to Friesaeh lies S.
Veit, a handsome town. We found The lVoIfat Friesach
a good inn; and after sleeping there, drove in ten hours
and a quarter to Judenburg, stopping, however, at Neu-
mark, which is about midway, to dine. \Vc found the

cum. XII. GERMANY. 525

road to Neum‘ark smooth, and the country well cultivated,
though less beautiful than before; but as we approached
J udenburg it became picturesque and ﬁnely wooded. We
slept at The Golden Cross and Scythe, a clean good inn,
and went next day, in nine hours and a quarter, to Leoben.
Our road continued good, winding near a meandering
stream called the h’luhr, and the Views were beautiful.
Travellers usually dine about midway at Kraubath. The
Imperial Eagle at Leoben is a very clean comfortable inn,
and the town is rather handsome, many of the houses being
built with stone or brick.

Our next day’s journey was through Bruck to Mom-
hofen, which we reached in ﬁve hours and three quarters,
and therefore might easily have gone further; but hearing
that the beds at the next Post were engaged,- and ﬁnding
the inn at Merzhofen tolerable, we slept there, and then
proceeded, in nine hours and a half, to Schottwien, passing
through a good read to Merzuschlag, where we dined,
and then ascended a very lofty mountain, at the foot of
which lies Schottwien *. The ascent is good, and takes up
about one hour; the descent employs more than double
that time, and is sharp and dangerous, the road being
narrow and ill-kept, insomuch that waggons ascend on the
Schottwien-side with sixteen and sometimes twenty horses.
\V e found the country from hierzhofen to Schottwien
wild, and finely wooded; and previous to our arrival at
hierzuschlag we passed the town of Krieglach.

The Post House at Schottwien is a tolerable inn.

Our next day’s journey was to Traskirken, whither the
drive took up ten hours and .a quarter. After quitting

* From Merzuschlag we took extra horses to the summit
of this mountain, which Travellers should not descend after it
becomes (lurk.

 

5526 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHARXII.

Schottwien we entered an extensive plain highly cultivated;
and passed through Neukirken and Neustadt, reaching the
latter in about six hours and a half. N eukirken is a large
town, and contains good inns. Neustadt also is large, con-
tains good inns, and is fortiﬁed. We dined here; and
afterward proceeded to Traskirken, through a ﬂat and good
road, exhibiting, to the right, a prospect of Hungary and
the Danube.

We slept at Traskirken, (which, though it may be called
a large town, does not possess comfortable inns;) and then
drove, next morning, in four hours and a half, to Vienna;
through a ﬂat country, abounding with game, and thickly
spotted with villages; but not well cultivated.

On entering Vienna, we were taken to the custom-house ;
where the ofﬁcers, though apt to be troublesome to fo-
reigners, were civil to us. The hotels in this city are not
so good as might reasonably be expected in the capital of
a great empire; and therefore the most comfortable mode of
living is to take a private apartment, and employ a Traifs’m;
Le Baezgf blanc; Le Grg'fon; Le Cz'gne; Les troz‘s Crops,-
Le Bmg’d’or; La Cour (1e ZlIatsclzac/r; and La Com-07mg
d’Hongrie, are the principal Hotels.

Vienna, properly so called, and built at the conﬂuence of
the Danube and the VVien, is small, but strongly fortiﬁed :
its faubourgs, however, are immense; and contain ﬁner
buildings than the town itself; in which the palaces are
few, and not spacious; and the want of those splendid
streets and squares which usually embellish the capital of a
great empire, prevents it from appearing, to foreign eyes, a
handsome city. .

Among the objects best worth notice are, My Imperial
Residence—the great Chapel belonging to which is adorned
with two altar-pieces, by Titian— tile Cathedral of S.
Stephen, :1 ﬁne Gothic structure, containing an Ecce Homo

CHAP. xn. VIENNA. 527

attributed to Corrcggio, and a cruciﬁx, by Donne; tile
Belfzy of this church, and its Sacristy—t/ze C/mrc/L (le-
dicated to S. Peter—tile Front oftbe Cburclz of S. llIiclzael,
adorned with Statues by L. Mattielli—tlze Church of the
Augustins, embellished with an altar-piece by Malbertsch—
t/ze Capucbin Church, which contains the Burial-place of
the House of Austria—tile Church of S. Cbarles, on the
Bennweg; and tile Cburc/z of S. Rupert, which is the most
ancient in Vienna—The Imperial Arsenal—tile buildings
of tile University, and the Imperial C/ianceiy—tbe Bank—:-
tlze 315122“, once the Palace of Prince Eugene—tile Cilan-
rezy of Bo/zemia and Austria—tile Hotel de Ville—the
Fountain, by Donner, which adorns the Neu-Markt—t/ze
Imperial Library, said to contain 300,000 printed volumes,
and 12,000 manuscripts; and always open to the public
from eight in the morning till twelve, during summer; and
from nine till twelve, during winter; Sundays and other
holidays excepted. This Library is enriched with an au-
cient Tomb, brought from the vicinity of Ephesus; an
Etruscan Vase, celebrated by VVinkelmann ; and the famous
Senatus Consultum, mentioned by Livy.— T/ze Imperial pri~
vote Library—tile Jewels of tile Crown—tile Imperial
Cabinet of iMedaZs, which contains a celebrated Cameo of
Alexander, by Pyrgoteles; and tile Imperial Cabinet of
IVatural History, open every Tuesday morning.

T/ze Imperial Gallery of Paintings at the Belve'a’ére,
which contains a large work, by Titian, ﬁnely executed;
though not equal to those at Venice—charming pictures by
Rembrandt; especially a portrait of himself; which, for
bravura and truth, may be denominated his clzef-d’ceume!——
a ﬁne picture, by Rubens, representing an Emperor re-
ceiving pardon for some offence against the Holy See—
Jupiter and 10, by Correggio ! l—Ganymede, by the same
master !! The former of these last-named works has been

 

528 TRAVELS ()N THE coxrrmcnr. CHAP. x11.

retouched in the back-ground; but is, exclusive of this
circumstance, pure from the pencil of Correggio—two heads,
by Denner; and some excellent ﬂower-pieces, by Van Huy-
sum. These pictures are on the ground-ﬂoor. The rooms
above stairs likewise contain paintings highly worth notice;
from being the works of the very earliest masters of the
Flemish and German schools. They are in excellent pre—
servation, possess great merit, and form a most interesting
history of the progress of the Art. One of these pictures,
an oil-painting, is reputed to have been executed during the
year 1292.

The Bclvc’dére is open to the public on Mondays, VVed-
nesdays, and Fridays. Many of the pictures once belonged
to our unfortunate King, Charles 1. It is usual to give two
ﬂorins for seeing the whole collection.

T 116 Gallery quaz'ntz'ngs in the Lichtenstein Palace con-
tains the story of Decius in seven large pictures, by Rubens
—S. Sebastiano, by Vandyck—two portraits, by Holbein
—the Guitar;l’layer, by M. A. Carravaggio—the sacriﬁce
of Iphigenia, by N. Poussin—a Countryman eating, by
Beccafumima head, by Seybold, being his own portrait— a
hladonna and Child, by Teniers—another, by Hanneinan
-——ﬂower-pieces, by Van Huysuln, Trechsler, Sic.

One florin satisﬁes the Custorle above-stairs; and two
pauls are sufﬁcient for the Porter below. This Gallery may
be seen at all times; but is much inferior to that at the
B el 175d 8) 'c.

The Porcelain-112mm acz‘m'c merits notice.

The Prater is one of the most magniﬁcent Promenades
in Europe. The usual time of going is after dinner. Coﬂ‘ee,
excellent milk, beer, bread, Sac. may be procured here.

Lau-Gartm is a public place, near the Prater, somewhat
like Vauxhall. Here you may dine (under the shade of
fine horse-chestnut trees) in the garden; or in a spacious

CHAP. xn. VIENNA. 529

room, with the rest of the company; every party, however,
having its separate table: it is possible, likewise, to get a
private room. A band of music, which plays during dinner,
receives from each party a paul or two. Dinner (wine ex-
cepted) costs one ﬂorin per head, and is ex‘cellently well-
served. Here are billiard-tables, a dancing-room, coffee-
room, &c. The waiters speak French and Italian.

Schoenbrunn is another public garden, well worth notice,
where a good dinner may be had for the above-named price.

These two gardens are open for dinner-company from
the ﬁrst of Blay to the last of September; and during the
rest of the year the same Traiteur serves, for the same price,
at Vienna, in his own house, where Travellers may board.

There are two remarkably good coffee-houses in this city,
the Cqﬁ? de Kramer, and the Caﬂ (16 Milan. The ﬁrst
Christian coffee-house in Europe was opened at Vienna.

“7ater-drinkers would do well, while resident here, to
supply themselves either at the Capuchin-Convent, in the
Place- Neuve, or at the Palace of Prince Schwarzenberg.

The national dish in Germany is small chickens fried very
dry, being ﬁrst cut into pieces, as for a fricassee; and this
dish is particularly well served by Traz'z‘em's.

There are two Theatres in the city of Vienna, and three
in the suburbs; none of them large; but the orchestra at
the opera-house is excellent, and the stage-decorations are
good. t is difﬁcult, at this theatre, for foreigners to obtain
boxes. Ladies, however, may sit in the parterre, sending
before-hand for seats. There are frequent and beautiful
exhibitions of ﬁre-works at Vienna. This city, with its
fauxbourgs, is said to contain 270,000 people.

The distance from Florence hither is about nine hundred
Tuscan miles; and the expense of barriers and turnpikes
for one carriage ﬁve or six Tuscan sequins *.

* Better carriages are built at Vienna than in any other city

M M

530 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. Kit.

Our ﬁrst day's journey from Vienna was to Stockerau, a
drive of ﬁve hours and a half, through a good but sandy
road. On quitting Vienna, we had a beautiful view of the
Danube, together with several royal parks and gardens,
which, all united, form an enchanting scene. The Danube
is immensely wide, and at the same time so translucent as to
be a great embellisher of every country through which it
ﬂows. The road to Stockerau traverses a vast plain, richly
cultivated, and adorned with several towns. .After sleeping
at a clean and comfortable inn (the sign, OurSam'our and
the woman of Samaria,) we proceeded in two hours and a
half to Mallebern ; where, in consequence of one of our
party being taken ill, we were compelled to pass the night
at a bad inn. The road thither is ﬂat and good, but sandy;
the country richly cultivated, and much like the south of
France.

From Mallebern we drove in six hours to Jezelsdorf,
through a ﬂat and good road, passing a Chateau belonging
to the Emperor, and a handsome town called Hollabrunn *.
The towns on this side Vienna are chieﬂy built of stone
and brick; the villages consist of neat thatched cottages.
The country is a rich and extensive plain, planted, near
Jezelsdorf, with a large number of vines. The water in the
last—named town is bad. After dining here, we proceeded
in three hours and a half to Snaim, through a good road 1-,
and an immense and richly cultivated plain, abounding with
corn and vineyards.

Znaim, the ﬁrst town of Moravia, is large, handsome, and

of the continent ; and that sort, known by the name of Ba’tarde,
is peculiarly safe and convenient for travelling. The usual price,
for one of these carriages, vache, trunks, and every other requi-
site inclusive, is from ﬁve to six hundred imperial ﬂorins.

* Hollabrunn contains good inns.

1- ‘Ve had extra—horses to ascend the hill beyond J ezelsdorf.

CHAP. x11. Momvm, &c. 531

built somewhat like an Italian city. It contains several inns.
We slept at the Three Crowns, and found nothing to com-
plain of, except bad water. Next day, we drove in ﬁve
hours and a quarter to La Zinca, through5a very rough
road, and an immense plain abounding with corn. The inn
at La Zinca is almost too bad even to dine at: we were,
however, obliged to stop for a couple of hours, to rest the
mules; after which we proceeded in three hours and a half
to Sc/zclletau, through a very rough road, and an open
swampy country, rich in corn and woods of ﬁr. Our inn
here was the Post-House, which we found tolerably good.
Next day we drove in six hours to Iglau, through a good
road, and an open corn-country, passing Stannern and other
small villages on our way. Iglau, the last city of Moravia,
is handsomely built in the Italian style; and the outsides of
some of the houses are embellished with curious old paint-
ings. The square contains good inns. The spires of the
churches in this country, like those of Carinthia, are chieﬂy
covered with white metal. The dress of the female peasants
is pretty; but, what looks odd to foreign eyes, the women
wear short petticoats and drawers, while the men’s coats reach
to their shoes. Fur seems much worn by both sexes. After
dining at Iglau, we proceeded in two hours and a half to
Stecken, through a good road, and a country richly cultivated
with corn, and variegated with woods. The inn at Stecken
is bad; we were, however, obliged to sleep there; though
better accommodations may be obtained at Deutschbrodt, a
drive of above two hours and a quarter further. Stecken is
the ﬁrst post in Bohemia.

Our next day’s journey was to Czaslau, a drive of nine
hours and three quarters; we dined, however, by the way,
at Hauvre, where the inn is tolerable. Our road to Czaslau
(the ﬁrst part excepted, which traverses f” hill *) was rough;

* We ascended this hill with extra-horses.
M M 2

582 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x11.

the country abounds in corn and woods of ﬁr.—-—Czaslau is a
handsome town, with a large square and obelisk in its centre;
the houses are chieﬂy white and tiled at the top; the em a-
ments of the belfries he1 e, and 1n Moravia, consist of ﬁve or
six spi1 es beside a cupola, all covered with white metal. We
slept at tile Post-flame, a tolerably good inn, where the
masterw was remarkably civil and honest; for we left, at this
inn, a pair of pistols, which were sent after us.

Our next day s journey was to Plaman, a drive of six
hours and a qua1te1, through a passable road, and a vast
plain of corn. On our way we went near lVIollin, a large
town, and through Collin, which also seems large. There
are two tolerable inns at Planian, where we slept, in conse—
quence of illness: but ought to have proceeded to Boemiseh-
brod, a drive of two hours and a half further. Next day,
however, we reached Prague, after travelling ten hours in a
good road, through a vast plain, richly cultivated, and ill-
terspersed with towns and villages, but not pretty. VVe
descended ahnost constantly for many miles before we entered
Prague.

This is one of the handsomest cities in Europe, built in
the Italian style, and famous for its bridge; its size, likewise,
is considerable, and its fortiﬁcations are strong. The inha-
bitants, however, bear no proportion to the capaciousness
of the town, as they do not, according to the best computa—
tions, amount to 90,000. The U 7'77ve7sth of P7670710 has
long been celebrated. T/ze Cat/zedml, a ﬁnely situated
Gothic structure, and #16 Clean]; of 7726 Holy Cross, are
said to be worth notice, but unfortunately we had not time
to examine them. The beautiful Bridge of Prague is
thrown over the l\'Ioldau, which runs into the Elbe.

Here are several inns; we went to that called T170 Prince
ofPrussz'a. The Lion is much recommended.

The Sclavoniairlangiiage (a dialect of the German) is
spoken in Moravia and Bohemia.

CHAP. x11; BOHEMIA. 533
From Prague, we drove in four hours and a half to Schlan,
through a good road, generally up hill, and over a vast plain,
tolerably cultivated with corn and hops. We dined at
Schlan (where, though the town is rather large, the inn is
indiﬁ'crent); and thence proceeded, in ﬁve hours, to Budin,
through a very bad road, the soil being loose and boggy:
the country, however, is rich in corn and game. Budin
contains two inns, neither of which can be called good.
Next day, we drove in ﬁve hours to Lobositz, through a
bogg 7, and (after rain) an extremely dangerous road.
To ascend the hill out of Budin, it is requisite that every
carriage should have extra-horses ; indeed, for the whole
post, extra—horses are useful; and heavy carriages should
be held up by men. Immediately after quitting Budin we
crossed the Elbe, and generally kept it in sight afterward
till our arrival at Dresden. Lobositz contains two tolerable
inns; tile Post-House, and the Free-Masons’ Arms (called
L’Ausfcrz'a Grande); we slept at the latter, not being able
to obtain extra-horses in order to proceed. Next morning
we drove, in ﬁve hours and a half, to Aussig *, through a
road, bad at all times, and excessively dangerous after rain;
being rocky in some places to a degree that risks breaking
heavy carriages to pieces, and so boggy in others that the
lightest vehicle can scarcely escape overturning, unless held
up by men. And, to increase the danger of this road, it
lies close to the Elbe, on the brink of a precipice.
Travellers, whose carriages are heavy, should put their
luggage into a waggon, and themselves either upon horses
or into a light calash, between Lobositz and Aussig; and
Invalids ought not to attempt going any way but on horse—
back, the jolts being so violent that it requires considerable
bodily strength to hear them; as a proof of which, two

* faumig is famous for its :«trong sweet nine, cullcd Post-
lxalltzlxy. '3‘

534 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. x11.

persons who went in carriages, at the same time with us,
broke blood-vessels; while others were overturned, and
nearly killed with fatigue. It seems extraordinary that
the Emperor does not have this road mended, as it might
be done in a short time, and at a small expense, especially
on the banks of the Elbe, where the soil is chieﬂy a rock.
He has, however, made the following road from Prague to
Dresden, which is reckoned better than that we took:
From Scizlan to Tez‘m'tz.................. Posts 1

Postelberg l
Toplz'tz ....... 2
Petcrswald........................... I;

DRESDEN ......... 1

Perhaps it might be possible to go down the Elbe from
Budin to Dresden; from Aussig, it certainly would; though,
in either case, Travellers ought to send forward some hours
before-hand, in order to have a proper boat provided.

The inn at Aussig is small, but clean; and the country
from Lobositz thither very romantic. After dining at Aussig,
we set out for Peterswald, which we were seven hours in
reaching, as the road is had, even to be dangerous; it tra-
verses a high mountain, to ascend which either oxen, or
extra—horses, are requisite.

Peterswald is the last town in the Imperial dominions,
and does not contain one good inn. But a quarter of a mile
out of the town, at a hamlet called Iledmf, or Hilesdorj;
there is a clean, comfortable public-house, which stands close
to the high-road, 0n the right, the sign being the Free-Masons’
Arms. At this house we slept, and next morning, drove in
eight hours to Dresden. On quitting Hilesdorf, we ascended
a steep hill", and then passed a wood of ﬁr; after which,
we descended almost constantly through a rich corn—country,

* We were drawn up this hill by the aid of oxen.

CHAP. x11. DRESDEN. 535

till our arrival at Dresden. We found the road sometimes
rough, but generally speaking good; the villages neat, the
peasantry clean; and, after leaving Peterswald, we did not
see one beggar.

There is a comfortable looking inn not far from Hilesdorf,
and another at Pirna, about ten English miles from Dresden.

The dress of the Saxon peasants resembles that worn in
England some centuries ago; and when we spoke English
to these people, they frequently understood us.

The approach to Dresden announces the richness of
Saxony; and at the gate of the city we found a custom-
house—oﬂicer, who attended us to our inn; where, on being
presented with a couple of ﬂorins, he retired without exa-
mining our luggage.

Dresden, the capital of Saxony, is supposed to contain
about 50,000 inhabitants; though some authors rate the
population at double that number.

The architecture of Dresden is simple, light, and elegant;
the streets are straight, wide, and clean; the squares spacious;
the palaces, churches, and other public ediﬁces, magniﬁcent;
and the bridge thrown over the Elbe, which divides the old
from the new buildings, is one of the ﬁnest in Europe.

Here are, as it were, three cities; the old town, the
new town, and Frederickstadt. The fortiﬁcations are
strong; the environs rich and beautiful; and the Elbe,
though not clear, is broad and handsome. Lutheranism is
the established religion of the country; but the Calvinists
have public meeting-houses, and the Sovereign has“ one
Romish church; he and his family being Roman Catholics.

The inhabitants of Dresden are, generally speaking, well
conditioned, and very civil to Foreigners; who live here
with comfort, at a moderate expense: and Painters may
study with great advantage at Dresden; not only on account
of the precious works of art which are submitted to public

 

536 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XII.

view, but likewise because there reigns throughout this town
a tranquillity peculiarly favourable to the Studious.

Here are several good inns; namely, L’Hétel de Pologne';
L’Ange d’Or ,- L’Hétel de Baoie‘re ,- L’Hétel de Same; and
L’Hétel de Berlin. Private lodgings also may be procured
without difficulty.

The objects best worth a Traveller’s notice are; The royal
Romish Church, which contains a celebrated organ, by Sil-
bermann; and a ﬁne picture of the Ascension, by Mengs—
(the Belfry of this church is 303 feet in height) —- The Pic-
ture Gallery—The Treasuly, 01‘ Jewel—Oﬁce—The Gallery
of Antiques --— T he royal Libraries and The Collection of
Dresden China. The Cabinet of Natural Ifistory, and The
antique Armonry, should likewise be visited, if Travellers
have time to spare.

 

In order to gain admittance to the Picture Gallery, the
Treasury, the Gallery of Antiques, and the Royal Libra-
ries, it is requisite to send, over night, your name, country,
and quality, to the respective Directors; together with the
number of persons you intend to bring, and the hour at
which you mean to come. You may either go from nine
till half past ten in the morning, or from half past ten till
twelve; from two till half past three in the afternoon, or
from half past three till five. To the Director of the Pie-
ture Gallery each party pays from four ﬂorins to one ducat;
and to the Sweeper half a ﬂorin; which sum once given,
you are at liberty to go without expense afterward. To
the Master of the J ewel-Ofﬁce every party pays four ﬂorins;
and to each of his Servants half a ﬂorin; which sum once
given, you are at liberty to go free of expense afterward.
The Custode who shows the Collection of Dresden China
expects a dueat, provided the party he attends be large

Picture Gallery. This immense collection, certainly the
ﬁnest of its kind in Europe, contains chefs-d’a’uvres excel-

CHAP. x11. DRESDEN. 537

lently well preserved, of the best masters: so that it is scarcely
possible for any person to study the Dresden Gallery, with-
out becoming a real Connoisseur.

Here are—the judgment of Paris—the garden of Love—y
Neptune calming a storm—a wild boar hunt—and a S.
Jerome; all ﬁrst-rate productions, by Rubens. Several
works by Netscher (particularly a man seated, and writing),
wonderful of their kind, and showing precisely how small
pictures ought to be painted. Admirable works by T eniers
and Ostade, Ruysdaal, VVouverman, and Paul Potter: but
among those rare efforts of genius which irresistibly arrest
the attention is the hIadonna of Holbein, with our Saviour
in her arms, and a little naked boy in the lower part of the
picture. The countenance of the Madonna may vie with
the best productions of Raphael, while the colouring would
do honour to Titian. By the last-named artist here are
two portraits, a Burgomaster and his \Vife which absolutely
seem alive. The above-mentioned paintings adorn the ex-
terior, or Flemish Gallery. The interior Gallery, or Italian
School, contains an apotheosis of the lV’Iadonna, esteemed
one of the ﬁnest of Raphael’s easel pictures—the Madonna
enthroned, holding the Infant Jesus, and surrounded with
Saints, by Correggio, in his ﬁrst manner—the Madonna en-
throned, with the infant Jesus, S. George, S. John Baptist,
Ste. by the same great master, and in the highest preserva-
tion — his lVIagdalene, a small recumbent figure, said to be
the most faultless picture ever painted —and the Na ivity
(called Correggio’s Night), by many persons deemed the
chcfd’ceuvre of painting, though now somewhat injured by
having unfortunately been washed; still, however, there re-
mains an effect of light and shade which at once charms and
astonishes.

Otlzer celebrated pictures in the exterior Gallery are—
Luther and his wife, by J. Holbein —- a child borne away

538 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAI’. x11.

by an eagle! (this picture, the work of Rembrandt, seems
falsely called the rape of Ganymede) — a portrait of Rem-
brandt, by himself; and another of his mother, weighing
gold, likewise by Rembrandt! —a Sibyl, by Angelica—a
portrait of Salvator Rosa, by himself—Peasants dancing, by
D. Teniers —— portrait of Henry VIII, of England, by J.
Holbein—a Girl with a lighted candle gathering grapes, by
Gerard Dow! a head of N. Poussin, by himself —- Rem-
brandt’s daughter, by Rembrandt—~21 small Madonna and
Child,&c.byAlbert Dureerruit and Flowers, byA.Minjon
—a Landscape, by Berghem—and another, with Cattle, by
Ruysdaal—our Saviour raising the Dead, with other small
but highly ﬁnished pictures, by Dieterich—a Landscape, with
Lions, by Rubens l—a Landscape, with a forest and a hunted
stag, by J. Ruysdaal and A. Vandervelde l—several pictures,
by N. Poussin—the Annunciation, by Vanderwerf ! ! l—Ma-
noah and his wife sacriﬁcing, while the Angel who an-
nounced to them the birth of Samson ascends to heaven, by
Rembrandt—the repose in Egypt, by F. B01 l—the feast of
Ahasuerus, by Rembrandt—a Girl standing at an open win—
dow reading a letter, school of Rembrandt a Cock and
Hen endeavouring to oppose an Eagle who has seized one of
their young, by Hondekoeter ‘.——a Claude—a Landscape, by
Berghem— a Battle, by W ouverman! ! !~—a Satyr and a
Faun, by Rubensl—the Madonna with our Saviour, by
Vandyck !—several exquisitely ﬁnished Heads, by Denner
and‘PSeybold—a Philosopher reading, by S. Konink! a
Banlier conversing with a Countryman, who has brought
him money, by Quintin-Matsys—the judgment of Paris, by
Vanderwerf, deemed his clacf-d‘ oeuvre ! .’—a Claude—Joseph
presenting his father to Pharaoh, by F. B01 1—- a head of
Seybold, by himself—the Madonna, our Saviour, and S.
Anne, by J. Van Eyk, the reputed inventor of oil—colours—
S. Jerome penitent, by Vandka—a Tooth-Drawer, by G.

 

 

 

CHAP. xn. DRESDEN. 539

Honthorst—S. Cecilia, S. Paul, Sac. by Giulio Romano l—
and a Vestal, by Angelica.

Other celebrated paintings in the interior Gallery are—an
Ecce Homo, by Guido—a recumbent Magdalene, by P.
Battoni—Apollo and the Muses, by Tintoretto !—a concert
of Muses, by the same master !—the Resurrection of our
Saviour, by Paolo Veronese—aVVoman carried off bya Man,
at whose feet lies another man wounded, by J. C. Procaccini
— the repose in Egypt, by Trevisani—Head of a man
with a cap on, by Titian I —Adam and Eve driven from
Paradise, by Albano ! — Mars seated, by Benvenuto Ga-
rofalo—Samson combating the Philistines, by Giulio Ro-
mano —an emblematical picture, representing Age and
Youth, by P. Liberi—a Portrait, by Velasquez l—the Genius
of Glory, by A. Qarracci l—a Madonna and Child, by
Guido !—the Woman detected in adultery, by Tintoretto—-

the same subject, by B. Biscaino ! !—a recumbent Venus, by
Titian! !! —and another, by Guido ! ! — Peace, by Dosso
Dossi— Justice, by the same! — our Saviour in the stable,

with Angels adoring him, by Albano l—our Saviour crowned
with thorns, and supported by an Angel, by A. Caracci l—
a Bacchanalian feast, by Benvenuto Garofalo ! l —— a young
Bacchus, by Guido ! ! —— the presentation of the Madonna,
by Giovanni Bellino—an Ecce Homo, by Guido—Lot and
his daughters, by Guercino ! —Titian’s mistress, by himself
—the Tribute-Money, by Titian—Head of our Saviour, by
A. Carracci I ! — a full-length ﬁgure of the Madonna hold—
ing our Saviour in her arms, Pope Sixtus V, and S. Barbe
adoring, and the heads of two Cherubim below, attributed
to Raphael ! ! ! l—a Candle-Light, by Rubens !—a Holy Fa-
mily (called the Madonna with the basin), by Giulio Romano
+Loves dancing, and Venus above, in the clouds, by Al.
bano !!—the blessed Virgin and our Saviour in glory, sur-
rounded with Saints and Angels, and known by the name

540 TRAVELS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAP. XII.

of S. Sebastiano, done by Correggio in his last style ! l l l—
portrait of Corregio’s physician, by Corregio ! — portrait
of Thomas Parr, when above an hundred, by Vandyck -— a
Man tied to a stake and going to be burnt, attributed to
Buonaroti—and the Madonna and our Saviour in glory, by
Ramenghi, called Bagnacavallo. '

Cabinet of Drawings in Pastel—Portrait of Raphael
Mengs, by himself—of his Father, by the same—and of
Cupid, by the same I l—scveral other beautiful drawings,
and some few small paintings in enamel. This Gallery is
warm.

Treasury, 0r Jewcl- Oﬁce. The most striking things here

Second room—a ship of ivory, and a vase of the same,

 

{H‘C

 

with bassi-rilicvz' representing a battle. T/zz'rd room a
chinniey—piece adorned with all the most valuable produc—
tions of Saxony, namely, china, diamonds, and other pre—
cious stones, pearls, Sic. Fourt/z roam—superb pieces of
plate, Ste. Fiﬁ/z room—(ﬁtted up with peculiar elegance)

ﬁne cammei a basso-rz‘lz'cvo on the shell of a Nautilus——

 

another large basso—rilicro representing a youth travelling
into foreign countries upon an unbridled horse; but, having
Virtue for his guide, Vice ﬂies before him. Stat/z room—
three pieces of enamel, by hrleiigs—antique enamel~pearls
representing men and women about one finger high, among
which a Potter is much admired. Sweat/z room—a pyramid
of precious stones, antique cammez', 8m. in the centre of which
is the head of Augustus ll; and at the foot of the column
are small enamelled ﬁgures, in the respective dresses of the
several European nations. This pyramid is said to have
cost 100,000 crowns. Eight}; room—an onyx, esteemed the
largest in the known world—the Great Mogul seated on
his throne, and celebrating his birth-day; a superb toy—
an Egyptian temple, likewise a superb toy—the jewels of

'W‘

CHAP. xn. DR‘ESDEN. 541

the crown; being a most dazzling collection of the ﬁnest
brilliants imaginable—a large and beautiful green diamond,
said to be unique, with several large red and yellow dia—
monds. This is deemed the richest jewel-ofﬁce in Europe.
The rooms are paved will: marble, and new cold.

Cabinet ofanz‘z'quc Sculpture. Tile most striking things
here are—a young Bacchus eating grapes—Meleager—one

of the sons of Niobe, dead an Etruscan statue of Minerva,

 

the drapery of which is curious—a basso—rz'lz'cvo of Artimesia,
in jasper, attributed to Lysippus—statues of two female
Fauns—fEsculapius and Venus, the head of the ﬁrst par—
ticularly ﬁne—statues of Vestals, found in Herculaneum
by the Prince d’Elbeuf, and by far the finest things in this
collection; the drapery being wonderfully executed ! l l—a

fragment of a Gladiator, or VVrestler, going to anoint him-

 

self, attributed to Phidias ! an Etruscan altar~a Grecian
altar, with niches in it—a Sarcophagus, with a dog. Here
are other valuable pieces of sculpture; but as most of them
have been sadly mutilated and ill-restored, artists only can
appreciate their merits. T/zz's Cabinet is cold.

Under the apartments which contain the above—named
antiques is a collection of Dresden china, from its com-
mencement by J. F. Bottcher, in 1701, to the present
period. The inventor of this china was an apothecary’s
man at Berlin; and ﬁnding himself suspected of being able
to make gold, he deemed it prudent to retire to Dresden;
where, being ordered to prepare a powder for the trans—
mutation of metals, he happened in the course of his studies
on this occasion to discover the art of making Dresden
china. T/ze rooms which contain tlzz's clzlna are (lamp and
cold.

There are two theatres at Dresden.

The distance from Vienna to this city is about 450

542 TRAVELS on THE CONTINENT. - CHARXII.

English miles; and the expense of ferries and barriers for
one carriage about three Tuscan sequins. The distance
from Dresden to Hamburg is about the same; and in con-
sequence of hearing that the road was execrably bad, and
that the inns were very indifferent, we determined to dis-
miss our mules and go by water, in an excellent boat, with
three cabins, four beds, a place behind for men-servants,
and another before for baggage. Our beds, fuel, kitchen-
utensils, knives, forks, spoons, glasses, cups, saucers, plates,
and dishes, were found by the master of the boat, who paid
all the port—duties to the princes by whose territories we
passed, and maintained himself and four watermen, we
giving him 255 dollars of Saxony (being ﬂorins 382%), an
extravagant price, as boats a very little smaller go for 125
dollars. Indeed, I would advise large families to hire a
couple of these smaller boats; by which means, they would
be better accommodated, and pay somewhat less than we
did *.

The Elbe is a. remarkably safe river as far as Hamburg,
though in some places so shallow that large boats are apt to
touch ground; but this does no harm, as the bottom is a
soft sand. \Ve were seven days and a half on our passage,
the wind being contrary; but with a favourable breeze, or
indeed none at all, this voyage is usually accomplished in
less than a week; even though you cast anchor for a few
hours every night, in order to avoid the noise which the
boatmen make while going on. VV e continually passed
villages where bread, meat, ﬁsh, vegetables, eggs, milk,
butter, and good wine were to be purchased; and beer we
took from Dresden. ,

The banks of the Elbe are ﬁnely wooded. The most

* It is necessary to have two mattresses for each bed, and
curtains to all the cabin-windows.

 

CHAP. xn. HAMBURG. 543

remarkable towns we passed near were, Meissen, where
the Dresden china is made, and where there is a covered
bridge over the Elbe; Ybrgau, where there is another co-
vered bridge over the Elbe (the country from Dresden
hither abounds with vineyards)*; IVz'z‘tenburg, a handsome
town, which contains an University, and is famous for
having been the abode of Luther, whose Tomb is in the
Church belonging to the Castle: here, likewise, is a bridge
thrown over the Elbe; and here provisions of all kinds,
beer, and wine, may be purchased better and cheaper than
in any other place between Dresden and Hamburg; Cos—
mick, rather a large town, not far from which are the cele-
brated Gardens of Valitzen; and by landing at a place
where the boatmen pay a tax, and walking to another place
where they likewise pay a tax, Travellers may see these
gardens without delaying their voyage; Illagdebmg, a
large and strongly fortiﬁed city, belonging to Prussia;
where, however, strangers cannot land without having their
passports examined. \Ve were detained here some hours,
that our boatmen might pay the port-duties, which are
heavy. After quitting this city, we passed several villages
belonging to Hanover, among which was Lauenbmg,
rather a large place, where, though the people look robust,
there is a great appearance of poverty.

The Elbe becomes immensely broad as it approaches
Hamburg, which city, supposed to contain an hundred and
twenty thousand inhabitants, is built somewhat in the style
of an old English country town. The streets are straight,
and planted with trees close to the houses; the quay
abounds with people of every nation; the port is crowded
with ships; and the whole city exhibits an appearance of

* Of all the excellent wines in this neighbourhood, that of
Toi-gau is deemed the best.

544 'TRAVELS ON THE CONTINEN’I‘. CHAP. x11.

being the world’s exchange. Here are no duties to pay at
the custom-house. The inns at Hamburg are neither good
nor cheap; but T lze King qf'England, T/ze red Please, The
black Eagle, T/ze London Hotel, and The S. Pctcrsbmg,
are the most comfortable. Private lodgings may be ob-
tained ; though, like the inns, they are bad and dear.

There are large numbers of storks on the banks of the
Elbe, and in the city of Hamburg; and, what is remarkable,
these birds are held. in such veneration by the common
people, that they would probably murder any foreigner
who attempted shooting a stork.

The ﬁlial piety of this fowl has long been celebrated;
and its sagacity in other instances seems equally extra-
ordinary, judging from the following circumstance. A wild
stork was brought by a farmer into his poultry-yard, to be
the companion ofa tame one he had long kept there; but
the tame stork, disliking the idea ot'a rival, fell upon the
stranger, and beat him so unmercifully that he was com—
pelled to take wing, and with some diﬂiculty got away.
About four months afterward, however, he returned to the
poultry-yard, recovered of his wounds, and attended by
three other storks, who no sooner alighted than they fell
upon the tame stork and killed him l

From Hamburg to Cuxhaven we went by water in one
of the boats which usually convey Passengers, each ofwhich
is large enough to accommodate five or six persons; and
contains beds, and a ﬁre—place for cooking provisions. The
time of embarkation is regulated by the tide. “Ye Were
about eighteen hours in going; and paid to our watermen,
three in number, seventy marks for the boat, and four for
drink-money ; ﬁnding provisions for ourselves, but not for

the watermen *1

* Public boats convey Passengers and luggage from Ham-

burg to ('uxhaven every Tuesday and Friday, weather per-

1

x. -‘ 'AIw-‘v'ié‘lﬂlvmumé W' '

 

CHAP. x11. CUXHAVEN—HARWICH PACKETS, &c. 545

On arriving at Cuxhaven we luckily met with a packet
ready to sail for Harwich.

Every Cabin, or Whole Passenger pays for going from

Cuxhaven to Harwich in a Post-Ofﬁce packet £5 5 0
Every Half-Passenger 3 0 0
Every four-Wheeled carriage (the charge for ship-

ping it not inclusive) 8 O 0

Female Servants pay as Whole Passengers ;——Children,
under six years, as Half Passengers ;—and above that age
as Whole Passengers *. ’ . ‘

Harwich packets sail to Cuxhaven every Wednesday and
Saturday, about two o’clock in the afternoon, weather per-
mitting; and return twice a week, if possible.

Cuxhaven, though a small town, contains clean Inns.

The best inns at Harwich are, The three Cups, and The
white Hart.

mitting. The price paid by a Cabin Passenger is ﬁfteen marks;
——by a Steerage Passenger eleven marks and four shillings 3-
and by Servants four marks and twelve shillings each.

* As the rates of passengers by post—ofﬁce packets are 0c-
casionally altered, the best mode of gaining certain intelligence
on this subject is by an application at the General Post-ofﬁce in
London.

 

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APPENDIX.

 

CHAPTER I.

CLIMATES OF THE CONTINENT—REQUISITES FOR
TRAVELLERS, &c.

Climates of Nice, Massa, and Pisa—Invalids cautioned against
exposing themselves to the inﬂuence of the sun—Newly built
houses, and houses not built on arches, unzvholesome—Ground-
ﬂoors healthy only in summer—Best winter-Situation for
Invalids—Eligible situations during other seasons of the gear—
Naples, Genoa, and Lisbon, liable to destructive vicissitudes
of weather—Barcelona, Valencia, and Alicant, recommended
during winter—Reguisites for Invalids, and other Travellers,
on leaving England—Means of preserving health duringa long
journey—Bargains with Inn-keepers, 8yc.

EVIY Family was advised to travel over-land to Italy: and we
therefore passed through France. Nice was recommended as
the best winter-climate for pulmonary complaints, and we con-
sequently resided there several months: but experience con-
vinced us that we might have adopted a more eligible plan; as
we saw at Nice no instance of recovery from pulmonary con-
sumption; neither did this appear extraordinary in a climate
where a fervid sun and an uncommonly sharp wind are perpe-
tually combating with each other. Massa, in point of climate,
is the counterpart of Nice; but Pisa, as I have already men-
tioned, is one of the best winter-climates in Europe, and ought,
I am persuaded, in pulmonary complaints, to be decidedly pre-
ferred to every other city of Italy, from the commencement of
October till the end of April. The marshy ground and stand-
AppendirJ B

2 APPENDIX. CHAP. I.

ing water about Pisa formerly rendered the air unwholesome;
but this evil is now removed; and the consequent increase of
population has not only banished grass from the streets, but
dispensed cheerfulness and health throughout this elegant city.
It seems requisite, however, to give Invalids, who purpose
residing here, one caution, namely, never to sit, stand, nor walk
in the sun, without being defended by a parasol; and always to
prefer walking on the shady side of a street *. Newly-built
houses are to be avoided here, as in every other part of Italy;
as it is, generally speaking, four or ﬁve years ere new walls
become dry. Houses not built on arches are likewise to be
avoided; and ground ﬂoors, during winter, spring, and autumn,
are unwholesome; though healthy in summer. That side of
the Pisa-Quay called La parte di mezzo-giorno, is, as I have
already mentioned, the best winter-situation for Invalids; be-
cause warmer and less damp than any other: for though the
climate is uniformly soft (owing to mountains which operate as
a screen from eVery wind, except sea-breezes), it is sometimes
complained of for being moist, and wanting elasticity: but this
very want frequently proves beneﬁcial to weak lungs: and
indeed I am fully convinced, from experience, that the lives of
many consumptive persons might be saved, were they sent by
sea to Leghorn T, ‘advised to winter at Pisa, cautioned against
travelling much by land; and, above all things, interdicted from
crossing the Apennine and Alps; which Travellers often do, in
order to spend the summer-months in Switzerland, one of the
most unequal climates ofEurope. From the beginning of May till

1“ Persons who are under the necessity of exposing themselves to the inﬂuence
of the sun in warm climates, ought to line the crowns of their hats with writing-
paper, several times doubled: and likewise to sponge themselves daily with vine-
gar: indeed, this wash is not only a preservative against those fevers which
result from hot weather, or malaria, but also a most salutary application in con-
sumptive cases.

1‘ Rates of Passengers by the Mediterranean-Packets, which sail from Fal-
mouth.

From Falmouth to Gibraltar, Cabin-Passenger, 39l.~—Steerage-Passenger, 22!.

Do. 1\Ialta, Cabin-Passengsr I191.—-Steerage-Passenger, 33!.

Do. Messina, Cabin-Passenger, ($1l.——Steerage-Passenger, 34!.

Passengers provide their own bedding; and female servants pay as Cabin-Pas~
sengers. ‘

Packets sail from Falmouth, for the Mediterranean, every third Tuesday
throughout the year, weather permitting.

ear-:ztﬁH

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CHAR]. CLIMATES or THE CONTINENT, &c. 3

midsummer I would counsel consumptive persons either to reside
at the Baths of Pisa, or in the city of Florence; and, during the
great heats, to seek a villa, the more spacious the more whole-
some, on those hills which lie just beneath Fiesole ; where there
is a constant and sometimes a very fresh breeze from noon till sun-
set; insomuch that I have sat out of doors in the shade at mid-
day (when the thermometer often rises to 85, and even to 90),
without feeling more warmth than is easily supported: and as
the wind always abates when the sun declines, and the sur-
rounding higher mountains of the Apennine attract the noxious
vapours, this situation is not liable to those dangerous vicissi-
tudes from heat to cold which are particularly baneful to weak
lungs. Florence, during the height of summer, though whole-
some, is, as I have already mentioned, oppressively hot; in
autumn temperate; but in winter foggy and cold. To persons
who require a bracing summer-climate I would recommend the
Baths of Lucca; where the thermometer seldom rises higher
than from 76 to 78; or the town of Carrara, which, from the
loftiness of its position, from its vicinity to the sea, and likewise
from the days (owing to the height of the mountains) being
shorter there, than in many other parts of Italy, is very cool.
Siena, also, from being built on an eminence, and therefore fre-
quently visited by refreshing breezes, is deemed an eligible
summer-abode; but owing to that reﬂected heat from which
no large city can be exempt, it is often oppressively hot during
the months of July and August. Rome, from the commence-
ment of October till the end of‘April, is considered, when the
lungs are not ulcerated, as even a better climate, in consump-
tive cases, than Pisa: and at all seasons that part of Rome not
affected by malaria, is particularly congenial to old persons;
insomuch that there are not, perhaps, half so many instances of
longevity, without inﬁrmities, in any other populous city of
Europe. Naples, from the quantity of sulphur with which its
atmosphere is impregnated, cannot be a good situation in all
stages of a decline: at Naples, likewise, the wind is frequently
strong and piercing; and the continual vicissitudes from heat to
cold, which are common here during winter and spring, render
the climate, at those seasons, a bad one. I have already recom-
mended the Plain of Sorrento as the most healthful summer-
abode in southern Italy; and during a long residence chere, I
B 2

4 APPENDIX. CHAP. I.

seldom saw the thermometer rise to 78; neither was I ever tor-
mented by moschettos; which, during the months of July,
August, and September, are a serious evil in many parts of the
Continent: the Baths of Lucca, however, the city of Siena, and
all lofty situations, are, generally speaking, exempt from this
pest.

The climate of Genoa cannot (as I have already mentioned)
be recommended; that of northern Italy is cold during winter,
and at other seasons liable to sudden and unwholesome changes.
Lisbon, also, is subject to these destructive vicissitudes of wea-
ther; insomuch that but few consumptive Invalids have reco-
vered the blessing of health from visiting the banks of the
Tagus. Spain, as a place of" residence, is on some accounts
objectionable; because the water and provisions (fruit and
other vegetables excepted) are not, generally speaking, good in
that country; but, with respect to climate, Barcelona, Valencia,
and Alicant, are, during winter, preferable even to Pisa *.

Requisitesjbr Invalids, and other Travellers, on leaving England.

Travellers who intend going from London to Paris, should
apply for passports to the French Nlinister in the ﬁrst-named
capital. These passports are obtained without any expense,
except a triﬂing gratuity to the Minister’s Porter; and they are
absolutely needful; because British Subjects cannot, at the pre-
sent moment, enter France without them; neither can Post-
Masters at Paris, nor within forty-ﬁve miles of that city, supply
a Foreigner with horses, unless he exhibit a passport; and
lately, indeed, passports have been called for, and strictly exa—
mined, in every large town throughout the Continent. Persons
who intend travelling from France, through Switzerland, to
northern Italy, should take care to have these important
vouchers signed by the Austrian Ambassador at Paris: this,
however, has been already mentioned.

Circular Exchange-Notes, from Herries and Co. S. James’s
Street, or Hammersley and Co. Pall-Mall, are particularly ad-

. Persons who wish to preserve health, either in Portugal, Spain, or southern
Italy, during winter, should endeavour to keep themselves warm by means of ad»
ditional clothing rather than ﬁres.

CHAP. [- REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLERS. 5

vantageous to Travellers; because payable at sight in all the
principal cities of Europe; and likewise exempt from the de-
duction of one per cent, to which common letters of credit are
subject. Letters of recommendation to all the British Ministers
on the Continent are also highly advantageous. Letters to re-
spectable Foreigners are useful; and frequently guard Travellers
from imposition. The English complain of being pillaged in
foreign countries: but would they procure recommendations to
men of respectability, instead of trusting to Inn-Keepers, and
Valets-de-place, they might ﬁnd themselves much less imposed
upon. ' The lower class of Italians always form a league to pil-
lage Travellers. Thus, if a Valet-de-place hire your lodging, he
receives (from the landlord) a certain stipend during your stay;
and this sum never fails to be added on to your rent: if he hire
your carriage, he receives a considerable fee from the job-man;
while you pay dearer in consequence: nay, every artist or me-
chanic you employ, and every article you purchase, is, generally
speaking, taxed, either by your Valet-de-place, or your Courier_
Persons who go to Italy by sea, cannot, however, require this
latter class of servant: and, indeed, I would counsel those who
travel by land, to dispense with so costly a domestic; whose
place may always be supplied by a good post-book, and an
active man-servant, who understands the management of car-
riages.

The following articles are useful to Travellers in general;
and some of them particularly needful to Invalids.

Leather-sheets, made of sheep-skin, or doe-skin—pillows—
blankets—calico-sheets—pillow—cases—a moschetto-net, made
of strong gauze, or very thin muslin—a travelling chamber-
lock—(these locks may always be met with in London; and are
easily ﬁxed upon any door in less than five minutes)———towels,
table-cloths and napkins, strong but not ﬁne—pistols—a
pocket-knife to eat with—table-knives—a carving-knife and
fork—a silver tea-pot—or a block-tin tea-kettle, tea-pot, tea,
and sugar-canister, the three last so made as to ﬁt into the
kettle—a Soldier’s Comfort *—pen-knives—\Valkden's ink-

’ This useful invention for Travellers may be purchased of the Patcntee, John
Cockell, at No. 38, Hay-Market, London It answers the purpose ‘of a night-
lamp, 3 c/zauﬂ'c-pied, and a saucepan; and is very little larger than a Lady‘s
ridiculc.

6 APPENDIX. CRAP. r.

powder—pens—razors, straps, and bones—needles, thread,
tape, worsted, and pins—gauze—worsted stockings—ﬂannel—
double-soled shoes and boots, and elastic soles; which are par-
ticularly needful in order to resist the chill of brick and marble
ﬂoors—clogs, called Paraooues; which are to be purchased
of the Patentee, Davis, Tottenham-Court-Road, No. 229. The
London and Edinburgh Dispensatory; or the Universal Dis-
pensatory, by Reece—a thermometer—a medicine-chest, with
scales, weights, an ounce, and half-ounce, measure for liquids,
a glass pestle and mortar, Shuttleworth’s drop-measure, an
article of great importance; as the practice of administering
active ﬂuids by drops is dangerously inaccurate—tooth and hair-
brushes—portable soup—Iceland moss—James's powder—bark
-—salvolatile—zether—sulphuric acid—pure opium—liquid lau-
danum—paregoric elixir—«ipecacuanha—emetic tartar—pre-
pared calomel—diluted vitriolic acid—essential oil of lavender
-—spirit of lavender—sweet spirit of nitre—antimonial wine——
super-carbonated kali—-Epsom—salts—court-plaster and lint *.
A strong English carriage, hung rather low, with well seasoned
corded jack springs, iron axletrees, and sous-soupentes of rope
covered with leather Tmstrong wheels—anti~attrition grease:
-—strong pole-pieces—a drag-chain with a very strong iron shoe;
and another drag made of leather with an iron hook §—a box
containing extra linch pins, tools, nails, bolts, &c. ; for repairing,
mounting, and dismounting a carriage—this box should be
made in the shape ofa trunk, padlocked, and slung to the hind
axletree—one well, if the carriage be crane-necked; two, if it
be not—a sword-case—a very light imperial—two moderate-
sized trunks, the larger to go before—a patent-chain and
padlock for every outside package—lamps, and a stock of
candles fitted to them—a barouche seat, and a light leather

* Families who design to spend any length of time on the Continent, should
likewise provide themselves with an ironing—cloth.

1‘ Sous-soupentes are not necessary unless a carriage be heavy laden, and its
springs weak.

t This useful article may now be purchased at Paris, Florence and Naples;
though not so cheap as in England.

5‘ 0n descending steep hills, especially when the road is rough, a shoe may he
forced oﬁ‘ from the tire of a wheel; and in this case the hook, which careful

Drivers always put on at the same time with the shoe, keeps the wheel dragged,
and prevents danger.

.M

'3!

CHAP. I. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLERS. 7

trunk suspended under it. The bottom of the carriage should
be pitched on the outside; the blinds should be made to bolt
securely within-side; and the doors to lock. A second-hand
carriage, in good condition, is preferable to a new one; and
crane-necks are safer and more convenient than single perches;
though not necessary *. Wheels made for travelling on the
Continent should neither have patentrtire, nor patent boxes:
mail-coach, or common brass boxes, answer best. In those
parts of Germany where the roads are bad, it is advisable
to cord the wheels of travelling carriages; and the mode of
doing this effectually is, to attach the cords to iron cramps
ﬁxed on the tire; afterward fastening them round each nave.
Every trunk ought to have a cradle; that is, some ﬁat smooth
pieces of oak, in length the same as the inside of the trunk,
about two inches and a half wide, nearly half an inch thick, and
cross-barred by, and quilted into, the kind of material used for
saddle girths; a distance of three inches being left between each
piece of wood. This cradle should be strapped very tight upon
the top of the trunk (after it has been packed) by means of
straps and buckles fastened to its bottom: and thus the contents
can never be moved, by jolts, from the situation in which they
were originally placed. Every trunk should have an outside-
cover of thick sail-cloth painted.

Persons who travel with their own sheets, pillows, and
blankets, should double them up of a convenient size, and then
place them in their carriage, by way of cushions, making a
leather-sheet the envelope.

Ten drops of essential oil of lavender, distributed about a
bed, will drive away either bugs or ﬂeas: and ﬁve drops of
sulphuric acid, put into a large decanter of bad water, will
make the noxious particles deposit themselves at the bottom,
and render the water wholesome: twenty drops of diluted vi-
triolic acid will produce the same effect T.

" Carriages without perches, invented by Elliot and Holbrook, VVestminster-

Road, are convenient on the Continent.
Savage, in Queen-Street, Long-Acre, ﬁts up travelling carriages remarkably

well.
1- After the vitriolic acid has been put into the water, it should stand two
hours; and then three parts of the water should be poured into another decan'er,

and the rest thrown away.

 

8 APPENDIX. CHAP. 11.

Persons who wish to preserve health, during a long journey,
should avoid sitting many hours together in a carriage; by
alighting and walking on, while their horses are changed, pro-
vided they travel post: and by walking‘up all the ascents, pro-
vided they travel en 'voiturier: and persons who get wetted
through, should take off their clothes as soon as possible; rub
themselves with Eau de Cologne, and then put on dry warm
linen, scented with Hungary water.

I will now close this subject by observing, that Travellers
should never fail, before they enter an Inn upon the Continent,
to make a strict bargain with the Landlord, relative to their
expenses; and bargains of every description should be made in

the currency of the country.
I

 

CHAPTER II.

Expense of going from Dover to Calais in a Post-Qﬂice Packet—
Ditto from Dover to Ostend—Private Pachets—-—Erpense of
going from Brighthelmstone to Dieppe, and from Southampton
to Havre— Vessel from Plymouth to Bordeaux—Diligence
from London to Paris—chean and Emery good Voiturins—
Calais—Best inns—Expense of hiring carriages—Tax upon
English carriages—Sealed letters—Money of France—Ea:-
pense attendant upon travelling on the Continent—Excursion
from Plymouth to Guernsey, S. Mala, Nantes, Tours, and
Orleans—Price ofPost-horses, 85‘s. ll’ater-diligence—Puhlic
carriages—Canal of Languedoc——ﬂlessagerie a} Cheval——-
Distance from Calais to Paris through Amiens—Do. through
Beauvais—Distance from Ostend to Paris—ﬂan; Dieppe to
Do.—from Havre to Do.—Routefrom Calais through Amiens
to Paris—Dafrom Calais through Beauvais to Paris—Do.
from Ostend through Lille to Paris—~Do. from Dieppe through
Rouen to Paris—~Do.ﬁom Havre through Rouen to Paris—
Hotels in the last named city—Firewood—(Quarters of the
town in which apartments at Hotels are most expensive—D0.
in which they are most reasonahle—Un/u-rnishea’ apartments——

 

 

CHAP. H. FRANCE. 9

Eatahles and wine—~-Restaurateurs—-Cafés— Véry, a cele-
brated Restaurateur— Wages of a Valet-de-place—Price quoh-
coaches, and hachney carriages—Do. cfpuhlic carriages which
go to Versailles, (Sc—Do. ofpuhlic heats, provisions, hreahfast
and dinner at a Restaurateur’s—Best shops—Music and Dancing
Jllasters—English Library and Newspapers—Notary public
who transacts husinessjbr the British Nation—English Sur-
geon—Apothecaries and Chemists— U pholsterers—Prices at the
T heatres—ﬂlessageries Royales—Qﬁces of the Cache d’eau—
Voituriers, where to he found—T heir usual prices—General
Post—Petite Paste. Route from Paris through Dijon to Ge-
neva—Paris through Lyon to Chambery—Paris through Nevers
and Moulins to Lyons—Lyons through Avignon and Air to
.Nice—Lyons to Avignon by water—Avignon to Nismes and
Montpellier—Aix to Marseilles and T oulon—Paris to Bor-
deaux and Bayonne—Paris to Brest—Paris to Dunherque—
Lille through Ypres to Ostend—Lille to Bruxelles—Paris
through Bruxelles to Ostend—Paris through Rheims to Sedan
——-Paris through Chalons-sur-Marne to Strashurg—-Paris
through Troyes to Strashurgh—Paris through Langres to Be-
sangon—Paris to Grenoble—Paris through Toulouse to Per-
pignan—Paris through Chartres to La Rochelle—Paris through
Caen to Cherhourg—Paris through Rennes to L’Orient—Paris
to Nantes—Nantes through Rennes to S. Malo.

THE expense of going from Dover to Calais in a Post-Ofﬁce
Packet is as follows:

l. s. (1.
Ladies and Gentlemen, each . O 10 6
Servants, each . . O 5 0
Four-wheeled carriages, each 3 3 0
Horses, each 1 l 0

The duty on every horse is seventeen shillings; which, with
other charges, amounts to about three pounds per horse.

The expense of going from Dover to Ostend in a Post-Ofﬁce
Packet is as follows:

>1

Ladies and Gentlemen, each
Servants, each

OH
E~e
ouo9n

10 APPENDIX. CHAP. 11.

Persons who land at Ostend, instead of Calais, save two posts
and a half on their way to Paris; beside an extra-charge of half
a post, which is paid on leaving Calais.

Families who sail in a Post-Ofﬁce Packet are expected to
give a triﬂing gratuity to the Mariners.

Post-Ofﬁce Packets sail from Dover for Calais four times a
week, and for Ostend once a week: and, beside these public
conveyances, there are several Cutters, well ﬁtted up, which
Families may hire entirely to themselves; paying, either to
Calais or Boulogne, eight guineas, if the vessel be large enough
to contain two carriages; and likewise making a present to the
Mariners *. The passage from Dover to Boulogne is some-
what longer than from Dover to Calais: but persons who land
at Boulogne save four posts and a quarter on their way to
Paris: it must, however, be acknowledged, that the passage
from Dover to Boulogne is, generally Speaking, less favourable
than from Dover to Calais; though, on returning to England,
the Boulogne-packets usually have a much shorter and better
passage than those which sail from Calais.

The distance between Dover and Calais is twenty-six miles
and a half; and between Dover and Ostend rather more.

Passengers ﬁnd their own provisions.

The expense of going from Brighthelmstone to Dieppe in a
public Packet is as follows:

I. s. (1.
Ladies and Gentlemen, each . 1 11 6
beside three shillings to the Boatman who takes Passengers on
board; and the same to the Boatman who takes them on shore
at Dieppe.
l. s. d.
Four-wheeled carriages, each . 4: 4 0

Passengers ﬁnd their own provisions; and the common pas-
sage, with a fair wind, is from eight to ten hours.

* Twenty shillings is the sum usually given amongst the Mariners belonging
to a private Vessel; and considerably less amongst those who belong to a Post-
Oﬂice Packet.

Three of the best Packets which sail from Dover to Boulogne are, The Dart
Morris Bushell, Master; The Vigilant, Samuel Bushell, Master; and The
Elizabeth, \Villiam Bushcll, Master.

CHAP. II. FRANCE—PACKETS—DILXGENCES. 11

The expense of going from Southampton to Havre“in the
public Packet is as follows :

I. s. d.
Ladies and Gentlemen, each . 2 ‘2 0
Servants, each . . . 1 1 0
Children each, if under twelve years 1 l 0

Four-wheeled carriage . . 6 6 0
which, with other charges, amounts to between seven and eight
guineas.

Two-wheeled carriage . 3 3 0

Horses, each . . . 4 4 0

Cabin, if a Family take it entirely to themselves, 21/.

Provisions during the voyage, half a guinea per head.

The Southampton-Packets usually sail twice a week.

A new and fast sailing Cutter of ﬁfty-six tons register, called
“ The Sarah,” goes from Plymouth to Bordeaux every fort-
night: and particulars respecting passage—money, &c., may be
obtained, by an application to Hawker and Sons, Briton-Side,
Plymouth“.

A Diligence goes periodically from London to Paris; and
places may be taken, and parcels booked, at the White Bear,
Piccadilly, in the former city; and at the Messageries Royales
de la Rue Notre Dame des ’ictoires, in the latter. The whole
expense usually incurred by each inside-Passenger, from Lon-
don to Paris, is about ﬁve pounds; and outside-Passengers, of
course, pay less: they sit with the Conducteurf, on a com-
fortable seat, which holds three persons, in front of the Dili-
gence. Every Passenger is allowed to take, cost-free, as much
luggage as weighs fourteen pounds.

" Vessels have lately sailed twice a week from Botolph-VVharf, near London-
bridge, to Calais: the expense, for every Cabin-passenger, being ll. 58.; and
particulars respecting these vessels may be obtained at the Foreign Packet-Ofﬁce,
No. 357, Strand. Vessels have likewise sailed lately, once a week, from London
to Ostend; and particulars, respecting these vessels, may be obtained at the D01.
phin, No. 318, Oxford-Street, and the Queen’s Head, No. 405, Strand.

The New Union Packet sails every Thursday from London for Calais, with
goods and Passengers; and particulars, respecting this vessel, may be obtained of
Bray and Co. No. 33, Lower Thames-Street.

f The Conducteur has the charge of Passengers and luggage.

12 APPENDIX. CHAP. 11.

Dq'ean, of Geneva, conveys Passengers from London, through
Paris, to Switzerland and Italy, allowing them to remain two
days in the last-named city; or longer, provided they agree to
pay an extra-price for so doing. Further particulars may be
obtained by an application at No. 33, Hay-Market, London.

Emery likewise conveys Passengers from London, through
Paris, to Switzerland and Italy. Further particulars may be
obtained by an application to Recordon, VVatch—maker, Cock-
spur-Street, Charing-Cross, No. 33, or to Emery himself, at The
White Bear, Piccadilly.

The best Inns at Calais are L’Hdtel Dessin, L'Hdtel de Bour-
bon, and T lze Kingston Hotel. They all furnish travelling car-
riages, which may be either purchased or hired: and a carriage
hired at Calais to go to Paris, remains there, at the disposal of
the Hirer, during ﬁfteen days; so that he may, within that pe-
riod, return it to Calais, without additional expense. A French
Cabriolet may usually be hired for about four Napoleons; and
a coach for ﬁve, or six.

Every English carriage, on entering France, is valued at the
Custom-House; and one third of the value deposited there, by
the Owner; who, on quitting France, by the same route, within
one year, receives back about two thirds of the deposit: but if
the owner should remain longer in France, he must, at the end
of each year, give notice at the Custom-house where the de-
posit is made, that his carriage still continues in France ; other-
wise he may ﬁnd some difﬁculty in recovering his deposit: if he
stay beyond three years, however, the whole sum is forfeited.
Should he quit France by a route different to that whereby he
entered, he must have his Custom-house-papers counter—signed
at the last Frontier-Bureau ; and then, either send them to the
Custom-house where his deposit was made, requesting to have
the sum due to him remitted to his Banker; or, should he
design passing again through France within the speciﬁed three
years, he may, by retaining his papers, and producing them
at the Custom-house belonging to the Port where he embarks
his carriage, recover the two thirds of his deposit. Beside this
deposit, a duty of twenty francs is paid upon every English
carriage when landed in France; and between thirty and forty
francs more are usually charged for clearance, &c.

English Families on arriving at Calais, or Boulogne, generally

CHAP. II. MONEY or FRANCE—EXPENSE OF TRAVELLING. 13

commission their landlord to clear their luggage; and the great
Inns at Calais, and Boulogne, are provided with Commissaries
who manage this business; for doing which they expect per
carriage and family, ten francs.

Travellers charged with sealed letters should not expose them
to the View of Custom-house-Oﬂicers.

ﬁloneg qurance.

Gold coins most in use are, the Napoleon, worth twenty
francs; the double Napoleon, worth forty francs; and the
Louis, worth about twenty-three francs and a half.

Silver coins most in use are, the piece of ﬁve francs; the
piece of three francs ; the piece of two francs; the piece of one
franc and a half; and the piece of ﬁfty centimes, being half a
franc. Copper coins most in use are, the piece of two sous,
being ten centimes; and the piece of one sou, being ﬁve
centimes.

Accounts are kept in francs and centimes, both by Bankers
and other persons: but, as the different Banking-houses at
Paris vary in the prices they give for paper drawn on them, it
is advisable for Travellers to make inquiries, respecting this
subject, before they leave England.

Napoleons are the most profitable coin a Traveller can take
to France: and it is, generally speaking, easy to exchange
English money for Napoleons, at Dover, Brighthelmstone, and
Southampton.

The expense attendant upon travelling on the Continent
greatly depends upon the disposition of the Travellers, and the
manner in which they travel. Persons who go post in an En-
glish carriage, preceded by a Courier, usually disburse a large
sum of money, without living at all more luxuriously than per-
sons who travel in a Diligence. At small provincial Inns I,
have often seen better dinners carried to the Table d’Hdte,
than my Family procured by the order of our Courier. We
were, indeed, sometimes compelled to wait for the refuse of the
Table d'Hdte : probably because the larder at a provincial Inn
may not always be sufﬁciently well stored to provide for Tra-
vellers who go post, and are therefore accidental Visitors;
though Diligence-Passengers, being constant Customers, are

14 APPENDIX. CHAP. 11,

certain to ﬁnd a good meal prepared for them. After this pre-
face, the Reader will not be surprised when I subjoin, that the
charge, for dinner only, at French provincial Inns, varies from
three to six francs a head. A person who does not travel with
a splendid retinue is usually charged for

Breakfast, francs . . 1 ;
Dinner . . . 3
Supper and bed . . . 5 *

Fees to Servants at public-houses are very moderate; a Por-
ter never expecting more than twelve sous, and a Chamber-
maid, or VVaitzer, never more than double that sum, from each
Traveller. Twenty-four sous are likewise quite suﬂ‘icient to
satisfy the Servant who greases the wheels of a travelling-car-
riage. French Inns, some years since, were not celebrated for
cleanliness, beds and table-linen excepted; but now they are,
on all points, much improved.

An English Gentleman, who lately made an excursion from
Plymouth to Guernsey, and thence to S. Malo, Rennes, Nantes,
Tours, and Orleans, gives the following account of expenses, &c.

Passage from Guernsey to S. Malo for an Adult, ten shil-
lings English; and for a Child under twelve years of age, ﬁve
shillings English 1-.

The road from S. Malo to Rennes is rough; from Rennes to
Nantes better; and from Nantes to Tours and Orleans ex-
cellent.

The banks of the Loire (anciently called the Ligeris), be-
tween 8. Malo and Orleans, are enchanting. Nature, indeed,
seems to have borrowed the pencils of Salvator Rosa and
Claude Lorrain, to unite, in one vast and ever varying land-
scape, the boldness and sublimity of the one, with all the
placid beauties of the other. Passage-boats may be met with
to descend the Loire from Orleans to Nantes, one of the most
delightful aquatic excursions in France.~ The Masters of these

' Persons who travel in their own carriage are usually charged at the Hotel-
Dessin, at Calais, for breakfast, per head, 2 livres—dinner, 6 livres—coffee, l
livre—bed and sitting-room, 9 livres—and for their servants, per head, three
livres and a halffor breakfast and dinner: but, at the Kingston-Hotel, the charges
are more moderate.

1- A Packet sails from Weymouth to Guernsey every Wednesday and Satur-
day, weather permitting; and the Hotels, in both places, are good.

CHAP. u. FRANCE—PRICE 0F POST-HORSES, &c. 15

boats land their Passengers every evening, that they may eat
and sleep on shore; and the fare, from Orleans to Nantes, does
not exceed ﬁfteen francs. The latter is a handsome town,
pleasantly situated; and containing excellent Inns. Good
dinners, table-wine inclusive, are furnished by the Innkeepers
here, at three francs a head; and a large Family may live very
comfortably in this part of France for ﬁve hundred pounds per
annum. Tours is a handsome town, containing two excellent
Inns, The Boule d’or, and The Faisan; and, likewise, an En-
glish Protestant-Chapel. Inn-keepers at Tours furnish break-
fast, without tea, for one franc a head; dinner, table-wine in-
clusive, for three francs; and a bed for about thirty sous.

The fruit in this neighbourhood is delicious, and remarkably
cheap.

Price quost-Horses, (So.

The usual price for every horse is one franc and ﬁfty centimes
(thirty sous) a post; and every French post is, generally speak«
ing, from ﬁve to six English miles in length.

A Driver cannot demand more than seventy-ﬁve centimes
(ﬁfteen sous) a post; but expects from thirty to thirty-ﬁve sons
for a common post, and twice that sum for a post-royal. Postil-
lions, indeed, both in France and Italy, seem to think they have
a right to the same sum, per post, for themselves, that the post-
masters charge per horse.

Travellers, on arriving in France, ought to purchase the
“Etat gézze’ral des Postes;” a new edition of which is printed
yearly: and as alterations are frequently made in this post-
book, it is expedient to inquire for the last edition.

The following regulations are usually found in the “Etat
général des Postes.”

Two-wheeled carriages, called cabriolets, must have two
horses and one postillion. '

Coaches, called berlines, or post-chaises with poles, must
always have four horses; though never more than six; with two
postillions.

Four-wheeled carriages a" limoniere (that is, with shafts, in-
stead of a pole), must have three horses and one postillion.

Post-masters at Paris, and within ﬁfteen leagues of that city,

16 APPENDIX. CHAP. II.‘

are forbidden to supply a Stranger with post-horses, unless the
Stranger exhibit a permission to travel post, from the Directear
General; which permission is delivered, gratis, to every person
who presents a proper passport.

It is the custom now in France to put shafts to every English
post-chaise; lashing the pole under the perch: because an En-
glish post-chaise, conveying four persons, is permitted to travel
with one postillion and three horses (four being paid for); pro-
vided it have shafts; which can always be obtained in post-
towns for twenty francs: and this mode of travelling generally
costs about fourteen-pence, English, per mile, fees to postillions
inclusive.

An English post-chaise, conveying three persons only, is
permitted to travel with one postillion and three horses, no
fourth horse being paid for, provided the carriage have shafts.

Distances, in this country, are computed by leagues; one
French league being equal to about three thousand geometrical
paces ; and stones are frequently placed half a league from each
other, on great roads, to mark distances *2

T an}? of 1817.
Cabriolets.
No. of persons. No. of horses. Price per horse. Sum total.
1 2 1 franc 50 centimes 3 francs.
2 2 1 5O 3
3 3 l 50 4, 50 cent.
4 3 ‘ 2 6.
Limonz'eres.
1, 2,01'3 3 l 50 4, 50 cent.
4 3 2 6.

N. B. For every person, exceeding the number of four, there
is an extra charge of one franc and fifty centimes.

" As there are no regular toll—gates, either in France or Italy, Travellers seldom
ﬁnd themselves called upon to contribute toward the expense of repairing the roads;
except it be on crossing some of the new bridges; where a toll of from one to
three francs, per carriage, is paid; and likewise on crossing the Simplon, and the
Mont Cenis.

If? ,

 

CHAP. II. FRANCE—PUBLIC CONVEYANCES- l7

Berlines.
No. of persons. No. of horses. Price per horse. Sum total.
1 , 2, 01‘ 3 4 l 50 6.
4, or 5 6 l 50 9.
6 6 1 75 10, 50 cent.

N. B. For every person, exceeding the number of six, there
is an extra-charge of one franc and ﬁfty centimes.

A berline is not to be drawn by more than six horses.

One child, if under six years, pays nothing: and two children,
if not above that age, are considered as equivalent to only one
adult.

In cases where permission is granted to post-masters to put
on extra-horses, the third, or extra-horse, is charged at one
franc and ﬁfty centimes per post. This permission is sometimes
granted for the whole year, and sometimes for the six winter-
months only, commencing on the ﬁrst of November.

It is customary in ascending the mountain of Tarare, near
Lyon, and the mountains of the Echelles, to employ oxen; and
to pay for them, per pair, thirty sous a post.

It is likewise customary and advisable, at every post, to pay
the post-master for his horses before they set out.

The posts in France are well served; and the roads, generally
speaking, good: it has, however, of late years, been much the
practice to travel in Diligences; which go, both by land and
water, from Paris to all the departments of the empire. The
water-Diligence, called a Coche-d’eau, should always be pre-
ferred to the land-Diligence in those provinces where the roads
are rough, and where the Traveller can descend a river; to
ascend being tedious.

Usual price ofpublic Carriages throughout France.

One inside-place, per league, in a Diligence . . . ..... sous 16
One place in the cabriolet, or outside seat of a Diligence 10
One place in a Fourgon, or luggage-cart .............. 6
One place in a Coche-d’eau ........................ 3

Public carriages in France are more convenient and less
crowded than in England; and the civility Foreigners generally
receive from Conductors of Diligences, Passengers, and Inn-

APP-l c

18 APPENDIX. ’CHAP. rr.

keepers, renders this mode of conveyance pleasant: beside
which, luggage of every description is conveyed remarkably safe
by French Diligences *.

The Diligence which goes from Paris to Brussels contains
eight places; the distance is sixty-six leagues; and every Pas-
senger pays three louis-d’ors; being, for that sum, provided with
dinner, supper, half a bottle of table-wine at each meal, and a
good bed at night. Sometimes, indeed, there are several beds
in the same chamber; but, for twenty sous extra, a room con-
taining only one bed may usually be procured. The Passengers
pay the fees to servants at inns: a waiter, however, does not
expect more than six sous from any person who travels in a
Diligence.

The Brussels Diligence stops on the ﬁrst night at Peronne,
on the second at Mons, and on the third arrives at Brussels.

. Canal 9]“ Languedoc.

From Bordeaux to Toulouse, against the stream, the Mer-
chant-boat is ten days in going up the Garonne: from Toulouse
to Bordeaux, with the stream, three days in going down. The
price, per head, in the Merchant-boat, from Bordeaux to Tou-
louse, is twelve livres 1‘. The price per head in the Govern-
ment packet-boat down the Canal, from Toulouse to Beziers, is
nine livres ten sons; and the accommodations are good. Lug-
gage, per quintal, costs four livres twelve sons; and the time
employed in going is three days. The voyage, on board a
Merchant-boat, from Toulouse to Cette, generally occupies a
week. Merchant-boats take carriages; but the Government
packet-boat does not. Between Bordeaux and Toulouse,
during summer, the Garonne is occasionally so shallow that
boats cannot pass. The Canal shuts on the ﬁfteenth of Au-

* We experienced this; for on our arrival at Lyon, we found it necessary to
send our imperials by the Diligence to Nice; they contained trinkets, lace, 810..
of considerable value; and, owing to inattention on the part of our Courier, were
neither locked nor corded; but, nevertheless arrived at Nice in perfect safety.

f A livre and a franc are the same thing; and every livre is worth twenty
sous.

 

 

\
CHAP. II. PRANCE—MESSAGERIE A CHEVAL, 83C. 19

gust, that, it may be cleaned; and opens again on the ﬁrst of
October. '

The towns visited by Travellers who pursue this route are,
Bordeaux, Toulouse, Villefranche, Carcassonne, Beziers, and
Adge; where vessels bound for hiarseilles may be heard of daily,
by an application at the Custom-house.

Travellers may go from Paris to Cette by the inland navi-
gation.

The passage by sea, for one person, from Cette to Leghorn,
costs three Napoleons; and from Marseilles to Leghorn, ﬁve
Napoleons.

Messagerie (2 Chem].

In the western and southern parts of France persons who
choose to travel on horseback consign their luggage to the
ﬁlessager-en—c/zef, who conveys it from place to place in a
Fowgon or covered cart; setting out himself very early every
morning; but previously informing his Passengers where they
are to dine; and likewise where they are to sleep. He provides
them with good horses; and does not regulate their hour of
departure, further than to require that they shall reach the
dining-place by twelve at noon. On arriving, they always ﬁnd a
good dinner prepared for them, with half a bottle of table-wine
allotted to each passenger. After dinner they set out again;
and, on reaching the inn where they are to sleep, ﬁnd a good
supper ready to be served; and, generally speaking, every pas-
senger gets a good bed. The Messager seldom takes his little
troop above six leagues a day; and so economical is this mode
of travelling that, from Nantes to Paris, a journey of ninety
leagues, the price is only sixty francs, every expense, except
fees to servants at inns, inclusive *.

The distance from Calais to Paris, through Amiens, is
computed to be, English miles .................. 186%
From Calais to Paris, through Beauvais .............. 172

"* If Travellers ﬁnd themselves aggrieved, either by an Inn-keeper or a Post-
master in France, they should have immediate recourse to the Maire or sous-
Prefect of the district; these Magistrates being bound to redress grievances.

c 2

20 APPENDIX. CHAP. it.
From Ostend to Paris, through Lille ................ 192}
From Dieppe to Paris, through Rouen .............. 123
From Havre-de-Grace to Paris, through Rouen ...... 164;
Route from Calais, through Amiens, to Paris.

Posts.

11} Hautbuz'sson - - - Road good. An extra half-post is

, paid on quitting Calais.
l Marquise

1% Boulogne - - -

2 Samers - - - -
l Cormont
11} Montreuz'l- - - _

1.} Nampont
Bernay

l.
1 Nou'vion - - - -

11; Abbeville - - -

I; Ailly lc Hauf-CIochcr
1% Flixcourt
l Pecquz'gny

- Road paved. When the pavement

is not well kept, say to your pos-
tillion, “ Allez sur la terre;"' and
he will generally take the road
on the side of the pavement.
Best inns at Boulogne, l’HJtel
de Londres, and The British
Hotel.

A Packet is established to sail

from Rye to Boulogne every
Monday. Price, for each cabin-
passenger, one guinea.

' The Téte dc Bangf is a good inn.

The water here is bad. The best

inns are, The Téte de Bang”, and
The H 6tel de l’Europe.

The country from Calais hither is,

generally speaking, open, and
thinly peopled.

A handsome city, seated on the

Somme, and supposed to con-
tain 20,000 inhabitants. Best
inns, Le T Etc: (16 szff; l’Hétel
a" A ngleterre, l‘HéteI (1e l’Eurape,
and Z’Holel de France.

"t“rm-Ir,<.2"_'.,§'_‘ . ‘ Jaw,

-‘ m’é’ﬁi‘i‘Wr ﬁnest/luvs, :2 \- A,

. warm: in

CHAP. II.

FRANCE—ROUTES. ‘21

1% Amiens - - - - - ancientlyAmbianus. This isalarge

1 H ébe‘court
1 Hers
I), Breteuil -

1% Ufavigny
l St.Justc*

2 Clermont -
1% Linguevillc
1% Chantilly
1% Luzarc/zes
1% Ecouen -

lg St.Denis
1 Paris - -

 

3-1-1,— posts.

* The Post-master has

Clermont.

a

and handsome city, and a cheap
place for permanent residence.
The Catkea’ral here (particularly
its nave) is deemed the most
perfect piece of Gothic archi-
tecture in France; and the best
inns are,The Post-house, l’Hétel
du Roi de Prusse, l’H6tel de
l’Abreu'uoir, and l’Hétel des Am-
bassadeurs. The country from
Abbeville hither abounds with
corn ; and many parts of the road
are bordered with fruit-trees.
An extra-half-post is paid on
quitting Amiens.

- - The H6tel de S. Nicolas here is a.

tolerably good inn.

The road from Boulogne hither is

good; and hence to Paris paved,
and in excellent condition.

- - Le point du Jour is a tolerable inn.

— - The H6161 dc Lille is a very good

inn; and the Chateau here
merits notice.

An extra-post is paid, both on en-

tering and on quitting this city.

right to put on an extra-horse from S. Juste to

22 APPENDIX. 'CHAl’. II.‘

Route from Calais, through Beauvais, to Paris.

(This road is less hilly than that through Amiens, and in all
respects equally good).
13% Abbeville- - - - - See the preceding route, from
Calais, through Amiens, toParis.
2% Airaines

2% Poizv
la} Granvilliers - - - - The Hétel d’Angleterre is a good
' inn.

1% DIarseille-sur-Oise - - Best inns, Le Grand Cerf; and
L’Epée Royale.

2% Beauvais - - - - - Inns, The trois Fleurs-de-lz's, The
Cigne,&c. A

11%— Noailles

1% Puiseum

13’; Beaumont-sur-Oise .. - Inn, Le Paon, and not very com—
fortable-

1% ZVIoisselles

1% S. Denis

1 Paris.

 

 

32% posts.

Routeﬁom Ostend to Paris, through Lille.

2% Tourout

1 Rousselart

2 IlIenin

2 Lille - - - - - - Theinhabitants of'this cityamount

to 65,000 *. The Citadel is one
of the strongest in Europe.
The principal Gate, the Theatre,
and the Exchange, merit atten-
tion. The Hétel ale Gand, near
the Diligence-Ofﬁce, is a good
inn; so likewise is The Hételde

‘* Lille contains an excellent School for Girls, kept by Ladies of high respecta—
bility; who teach the French, English, German, and Italian languages, music,

“it

CIIAP. II.

1 % Pant-a-ﬂlarcq

2% Douay - — - _
1% Bac-Auhencheul

1% Cambray - - - -
1% Rona-my

1% Fins

2 Pérorme — - - ,-
1; AIarché—‘le- Pot

l Fonches

1 Rage

1% Conchy-les-Potsv

l Cuvilly

l Gournay-sur-Aronde
1% Bots-de-Lihus

1%; Pont S. Illaxencc

1% Senlis

1 La Chapelle-en-Serval
1% Louvres

FR’A NOE—ROUTES. ‘ 23'

Bourbon. An extra quarter
of a post is paid (in quitting
Lille.

— This town contains aﬁne Arsenal,

(1 Cannon-Foundry, and an Ar—
tillery-School. The Church, the
Ilétel de Ville, the Grande Place,
and the Ramparts, deserve
notice. L’Hétel de Versailles is
one of the best inns. An extra-
quarter of a post is paid on
quitting Douay.

- anciently Camaracum. - The Cita-

del, though old, is a ﬁne one.
The Hotel de Ville and the Epis-
copal Palace merit attention; as
does the pyramidical Belfry of
the large Church.

— This town is seated on the Somme.

The best inn here is The H6tel
S. Martin.

dancing, and every kind of fancy work, for thirty-five louis-d’ors per annum, board,

washing, and all expenses inclusive.

They likewise pay great attention to the

health of their Pupils, and are celebrated for the cleanliness of their seminary.

24: APPENDIX. CHAP. 11.

1; Bourget
15 Paris.

36—}; posts.

Route from Dieppe to Paris, through Rouen.

Dieppe is a handsome town, supposed to contain 20,000 in-
habitants. The large Church of S. Jaques merits notice; as
does the view from the Clﬁls. The best inns are, The H6-
tel de Paris, The Hdtel ale grande Blaison, and The H6tel
d’Angleferre. The master of the last-named inn is an English—
man, by name, Taylor *.

2 Osmon'vz'lle - - — - An extra quarter of a post is paid
on quitting Dieppe.

1% T ostes - - - - - The inn here is tolerably good.

1% Camhres

2 Rouen - - - - - This city, anciently called Roto-

magus, is supposed to contain
73,000 inhabitants. The great
Hall of the Palace—the old
Castle—the large Church—the
ci—devant Benedictine-Church of
S. Ouen and its Belfry—and
the Church belonging to l’Hd-
pital Aladelaine, merit notice.
The road between Paris and
Rouen presents rich and beau-
tiful scenery. An extra half
post is paid on quitting Rouen.

1% Forge-Ferette

1 Boztrg-Baudozciiz

1% Ecoiiis

2 T illiers

* Persons who go from Dieppe to Paris, and are not anxious to see Rouen,
may pursue a. shorter route, namely, through Bots-Robert, Pammervvel, Forges,
Goumay, Gisors, Chars, Pontoise, and F ranconm‘lle.

Packets from Dieppe to Brighton sail every evening from the fifteenth of April
till the ﬁfteenth of October.

 

A ~3~¢xﬁn§

 

CHAP. II. FRANCEd—ROUTES. 25

2 lllagny

1% Bordeawa’e- Vigng

2 Pontoise - - - - - The Church of S. Martin is cele-
brated for its architecture; and
the Church of S. IWallon con-
tains a famous Descent from
the Cross.

1—;- Francon-ville

1% St. Denis

1 Paris.

22} posts.

Route from Havre-de-Grace to Paris, through Roucn and S. Ger-
main-en—Lage.

Havre, situated at the mouth of the Seine, is a ﬂourishing
commercial city, which contains 19,600 inhabitants, and pos-
sesses the advantage of a Port accessible during almost every
wind: its Floodgates and Basins, made by Napoleon, merit no-
tice. The largest inn at Havre is The Hﬁtel de S. Francois;
but The Hdtel d’ Anglcterre is the cheapest and most comforta-
ble. The usual charge for supper and beds at the latter is four

francs a head; and for dinner, at the table d’hé’t e, from two to
three francs.

2 La Bofte - — - - - An extra half-post is paid on quit-
ting Havre.

1% 301630

1-i- Aliguervz'lle

1—;— Yvetot

2% Barentin

2 Rouen
1% Port S. Own
1% Le Vaudrcuil
2 Guillon
1% Vernon
1% Bonnieres
1% Alantcs
2 [Harlan

1 Trial

‘26 APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

1; S. Germain-en-Laye
1% Nanterre
1% Paris.

 

27% posts.

Paris (as I have already mentioned), is said to contain three
hundred Hotels, many of which are splendidly furnished: some
of them, however, may be with more propriety denominated
ready-furnished lodging-houses, than Hotels; as they neither
provide eatables nor waiters; though the English custom of doing
both has lately gained ground: but no Hotel provides ﬁre-wood;
which is an expensive article, and can only be purchased rea-
sonably at the wood-yards, where it usually costs from twenty-
nine to thirty-seven francs a load. The Rue de la Pair, the
Place Vendome, the Rue de Rivoli, and the Rue de Richelieu,
contain the best Hotels; among which are The Hdtel de Londres,
Place Vendome, The Hdtel de Rivoli, Rue de Rivoli, The Hdlel
d’Hollande, Rue de la Pair, and The Hotel de IVagram, Rue
de la Paix : but, accommodations for a moderate—sized family,
in this quarter, usually cost ﬁve hundred francs a month;
whereas, the same accommodations, in the Faubourg S. Ger-
main, may be obtained for two thirds of that sum; and near the
ﬂIcssagerz'es Royales for still less *. Ready-furnished apart-
ments may likewise be hired in private houses; and several re-
spectable Parisians take Boarders: but Families who design to
remain six months at Paris, and wish to live with economy there,
should rent an unfurnished apartment, hiring furniture of an
upholsterer. Persons who travel in a Diligence, may usually
procure apartments at the Hotel attached to the Diligence-Of-
fice, or some other in the vicinity.

Eatables and wine are good at Paris; and Restaurateurs .will
send plentiful dinners to large families at four or five francs per

"’ The Proprietors of great hotels do not, in general, like to receive Travellers
by the day; but, at the Hdtel (1e Bruwelles, Rue de Richelieu, The Hétel d’An-
g1elerre..Rue Filles S. Thomas, and The Hﬁlel d’ZlIontauban, Rue Git-le-Cceur,
this is not the case. The master of the ﬁrst-named house keeps a good Table
ri’Hélc, at which Ladies may dine without any impropriety: and at all of these
hotels families may be supplied with excellent dinners in their own apartments for

four francs a head.

 

«rww 314ij we»??? 3:: ‘ “W .5; .y

at“

I“ as.

yaw

 

W:

CHAI’. II. PARIS. 27

head, bread, fruit, and wine, not included: but single men are
better served by taking their meals at the house of a Restaurateur ,-
which is a sort of tavern, where Ladies likewise may dine with-
out the smallest impropriety. Ladies are also in the habit, after
dinner, of frequenting the qués; where tea, coffee, chocolate,
capillaire, &c. are served in the morning; and coffee, liqueurs,
beer, lemonade, and ices, in the evening. There also are qués
for what is called a dqjezinerfroid d lafourchette; which con-
sists of sausages, col‘d meat, eggs, and excellent wines; and as
the Parisians seldom dine before ﬁve or six o’clock, they fre-
quently take these meat breakfasts. Véry is a celebrated Re-
staurateur, and has two houses; one in the Palais-Rogal, Ga-
lerie d6 picrre, and the other in the Rue de Rivoli: but persons
who dine at either of his houses should take care to order only
such a number of portions of each dish as they are likely to eat;
every portion being charged separately. The carte a‘ manger
is given into your hands the moment you enter these taverns,
with the price per portion of every dish, and a list of the wines
and their prices.

The quE des millcs colonnes, sur la place du Palms-Royal, is
celebrated for the excellence of its ices, &c. The qué-Hardg,
on the Boulevmd des Italiens, is likewise celebrated for excel.
lent ices, and meat-breakfasts.

A Valet-de-Place, who speaks English, may be hired for four
or five livres a day, he ﬁnding himself in every thinor.

A Job-Coach, coachman's wages inclusive, usually costs
eighteen francs per day; and from four hundred and ﬁfty to ﬁve
hundred francs per month: but, if these carriages be taken a
few miles into the country, the coachman expects ﬁve francs
for himself.

Hackney-Coaches, Chariots, and Cabriolets, are paid for
either by the fare, or by time. For a coach, or chariot, the
price is thirty sous per fare; the driver having a right to demand
a fare whenever ordered to stop; but, if he be not ordered to
stop, he must drive from one extremity of Paris to the other
for the above—mentioned price. The fare by time is two francs
for the ﬁrst hour, thirty sons for every subsequent hour, and
ﬁfteen for every half-hour, unless it be from midnight till four
in the morning, when the price is doubled: and if the clock
strike twelve immediately before the dismissal of a hackney

9.8 APPENDIX. CHAP. u.

6'
coach, 'the coachman has a right to demand ten sous extra.
Hackney-Coachmen expect drink-money; though they cannot
demand it.

The price in public Carriages which go to Versailles, S. Cloud,
S. Denis, and other environs of Paris, is from twenty to forty
sous each Passenger. The public carriages which go to Ver-
sailles, S. Germain, S. Cloud, and all the western environs of

’aris, are stationed at the extremity of the Quay of the Tuile—
ries; and those which go to S. Denis, and the other northern
environs, in the Rue d’Englzien, or the Rue de Mabl , near the
Gate of S. Denis.

Public Boats go almost every hour ofthe day to Meudon, S.
Cloud, &c.

The usual price of" prime joints of‘butchers’ meat is from ten
to thirteen sous the pound *—offowls, from thirty-ﬁve to forty
sous each—of the best bread from ﬁve to six sons the pound—
and of common table-wine from twenty to twenty-ﬁve sons the
bottle.

A breakfast (‘2 la jburc/Lettc, usually costs one livre per head;
unless tea be required, when the price is three livres; but, in
thes prices, wine is not included.

A dinner at a Restaurateur’s may usually be procured for two
livres a head, or even less, exclusive of wine.

Corcellet, Marchand d6 Comestibles, an Gourmand, Palais-
Royal, sells ortolans, game, poultry, Hamburg-beef, Bayonne-
hams, Bologna-sausages, Perigord, and other celebrated meat-
pies, grocery, Italian, Swiss, and English cheeses, English ale,
porter, mustard, tea, Cayenne-pepper, curry-powder, and ﬁsh-
sauces; wines, liqueurs, with almost every other article of
luxury for a table. He likewise sells rutqﬁas; but liquors of
this kind, whether in France or Italy, are extremely dele-
terious T.

Meunier, Rue de 8. Péres, No. 22, sells foreign wines and

* The French pound, called poids dc table, is about fourteen ounces and a half;
and the kilogram about thirty-ﬁve ounces.

+ A melancholy proof of this occurred not long since at Pisa. Two Ladies were
livingr together in that city, when one ofthem complaining oferanip in her stomach,
the other gave her a wine-glass of Rataiia. which happened to be in the house-
Shortly after having swallowed it she died, so evidently in consequence of poison,
that strong suspicions fell upon her friend; who, to prove her innocence, took the

 

 

 

 

“H.

CHAP. II. PARIS. 29

liqueurs—Cliquot, Rue S. Andre des Arcs, No. 61, sells Cham-
pagne—and Laforét, Rue de Clery, No. 5, sells Bordeaux.

The best chocolate is to be found at Auger’s, Rue neuve des
Petits Champs, N0. 91.

Berthellemot, in the Palais-Rogal, is a good Confectioner.

The best shop for Lyon-silks, embroidery, &c. is Nourtier’s,
an Page, Rue Vivienne. French ﬁgured silks and satins are
from ten to fourteen francs the aune, which is an English ell;~
Levantines from six to ten francs; and Florence-silks from four
to seven francs.

The best shop for lace is Le Sueur’s, Rue de Grammont.

A celebrated shop for embroidery is that of Mademoiselle lc
Boeuf, (‘1 la Balageuse, Rue neuve ales Petits Champs ,- and in the
same street is a celebrated shop for corsets, kept by Made-
moiselle Picard, at No. 52.

Madame Leroy, Rue de Richelieu, and Madame d’Herbault,
Rue neuve S. Augustin, are celebrated milliners.

M.M. Vernier, Rue Vivienne, No. 19, are good Woollen-
drapers.

M.M. Prarond, Rue de la Barillerie, No. I, sell good silk
stockings.

Melinotte, in the Rue de la Paix, is an excellent Ladies’
Shoemaker; and charges, whether for silk or leather shoes, six
francs the pair; for thin boots, from twelve to ﬁfteen francs;
and for thick boots lined with fur, twenty-four francs: Ladies’
shoes and boots ready-made, may, in other shops, be purchased
cheaper; and excellent men’s shoes and boots, together with
Ladies’ shoes, called Piquées (and calculated to resist the chill
of brick ﬂoors), may likewise be met with at Paris *.

Moreau, No. 9, Rue de Port Malian, is a good coachmaker,
and repairs English carriages remarkably well.

The highest price given to music and dancing masters is six
francs a lesson.

same quantity of Ratafia herself, which she had administered to the deceased, and
expired within a few hours.

Impelled by this circumstance, Professor Santi, of Pisa, wrote abeautiful little
work to show that Rataﬁa has of late years been made with Italian laurel leaves;
the extract from which is a deadly poison.

* These Pique’es are made sufﬁciently large to be worn over other shoes, and
lined with calico-wadding. or cotton, quilted into thin white satin.

30 APPENDIX. CHAP. n.

Galignani, Librarian, Rue Vivienne,yNo. 18, sells English
books; and publishes an English newspaper every morning,
Sundays excepted; the price per month, being nine francs; per
quarter, twenty-four francs; per half-year, forty-four francs;
and per year, eighty-four francs. For one extra franc per
quarter the paper is franked throughout France; and for two

extra-francs throughout Italy, Switzerland, and Germany. Sub- '

scriptions are received by every Bookseller and Director of the
Post-Ofﬁces throughout France, Italy, Switzerland and Ger-
many; they must, however, be paid in advance.

Monsieur Sensier, No. 247, Rue S. Denis, is a Notary-pub-
lic, who understands English, and transacts business for the
British nation.

Persons who require medical aid would ﬁnd a skilful Prac-
titioner in Mr. Tupper, Surgeon, Rue de la Pair.

Neret and Co. Apothecaries and Chemists, N0. 309, Rue S.
Honoré, sell English medicines, and prepare prescriptions in the

English manner. English medicines may also be procured of

Fortin, Apothecary, Rue de la Puix.

Baudouin, Rue Lepelletier, N0. 2—Darrac, Rue neui'e S.
Eustache, No. 7—and Poussin, Rue de la Verrerie, No. 54, are
good Upholsterers. .

The prices at the Opera, or Academic Royale d6 AIusique, are
as follow. Balcony, each person, ten francs—First row of boxes,
seven francs and ﬁfty centimes—Second row of boxes, six francs
_Third row, four francs—Fourth row, three francs and sixty
centimes—parquet, three francs and sixty centimes.

The prices at the Theatre Francais are, Balcony, and first
row of boxes, each person six francs and sixty centimes—First
galleries, and second row of boxes, four francs, and forty cen-
times—Parterre, two francs, and twenty centimes.

The Messageries Royales, or Diligence-Office, is in the Rue
Notre-Dame des Victoires, No. 22: and from this office Dili-
gences g0 periodically to every town in France situated on the
great roads.

The Ofﬁces of the Coclze d’eau de Haute Seine are situated on
the Quai—Dauphin, Ile S. Louis, No. 6—Port S. Paul, N0. 8—
and Rue de Bretonvilliers, No. l.

Voituriers, returning from Paris to Switzerland and Italy, may
frequently be met with at the Hfitcl de Toulouse, Rue Git-16-

 

 

 

 

CHAP. II. PARIS. A 31

Comer, No. 6, near the Pont S. Alichel; and at the Hotel de
Montauban, in the same street; and persons going to Switzer-
land, or Italy, would of course be able to make a better bargain
with these men, than with a French Voiturin.

The Voituriers belonging to Dejean, and those belonging to
Emery, may be heard of at the Hotel de Toulouse; and their
prices usually are as follow.

For each passenger from London to Geneva, dinner, supper,
and beds inclusive, twenty Louis-d’ors—From London to Flo-
rence, thirty-six Louis-d'ors—From Paris to Florence, twenty-
six Louis-d’ors—and from Paris to Milan, twenty-two Louis-
d'ors.

The expense of breakfasts, and the gratuities to servants at
inns, are paid by the passengers.

Each Passenger is allowed a cwt. of luggage.

General Post-Oﬁce.

The olﬁce where letters are franked, is opened at seven in the
morning, during summer, and eight during winter. Letters
for foreign Countries must be franked before noon; and letters
for France put into the post before two.

The Poste—restante is open from eight in the morning till seven
in the evening.

Letters from Great-Britain arrive late on Mondays, and are
delivered on Tuesdays; they likewise arrive on Thursdays.

Letters for Great Britain go on Tuesdays and Fridays, and
must be franked. Letters for Russia and Sweden go daily, but
cannot be franked further than Hamburg.

Letters for Italy and Germany go daily, and must be franked.

The British Ambassador’s packet goes on Mondays and
Thursdays ; and letters for Great Britain may be sent by this
conveyance, if taken to the Ambassador’s by four o’clock.

Letters and parcels of particular consequence are ensured, on
the payment of double postage. Money likewise may be 00n-
veyed with safety per post. on the payment of ﬁve per cent.

All letters delivered from the General Post-Ofﬁce at Paris,
are charged according to their weight; and a single letter from
Great Britain usually costs about fourteen sous.

32 APPENDIX. ( ‘ CHAP. 11.

Petite-Paste.

The Petite-Paste bags are to be found in the Rue des Mau-
vaises-Paroles, No. 12—the Rue des Ballets S. Antoine, No. 1
—the Rue du Grand-Chantier, No. 7—the Rue Beauregard,
No. ll—the Rue Neuve—du-Luxembourg, N0. 3—the Rue de
Verneuil, No. 20—the Rue de Conde’, No. S—and the Rue des
Fossés-Saint- Victor, No. 35. The postage, per letter, is three
sous in Paris, and four sous in the environs; and the letters are
taken out of the bags, and distributed every two hours *,

Route from Paris to Geneva through Dijon.

1 Villejug'f .
1% Fromenteau

I; Essonne

1% Ponthierg

l Chailly

1% Fontainebleau

1% Moret

1% Fossard

1 Villeneuve-la-Guyard

1% Pant-sur-Ymme

1% Sens - - - - - - A third-horse, for the six winter-

‘ months, both going and return—
ing.

1 % Villeneuve—sur- Yomze

l Villevallz'er

l Joigny

1% Bassou

2 Auxerre — - - - - A third horse, for the six winter-
months, both going and return-
ing. An extra quarter of a post
is paid on quitting Auxerre.

1 St. Bris - - - - - A third horse, for the six winter-
months, both going and return-
ing.

"' Washerwomen at Paris charge nearly the same price as in London: but per-
sons who reside in the provincial towns of France may get their linen washed very

reasonably.

 

 

, anywwwxs »

 

 

CHAP. II. FRANCE—PASSAGE OF THE J'URA-ALPS. 33

2 Vermanton

2% Lucy-le—Bois —-

Avallon
Rouvrag - - - -

N:—

‘2 AIaison-neuve - -

2 Vitteaux
1;"— La Chaleur — — -

I; Pont-de-Pany - -

2,}Dijon- - - — -
2 Genlis

1% Auromze - - - .,
2 Dale

2% Mont-sous- l'audrey
2% Poligng

2% Champagnole - -
1% ﬂiaison-neuve (Jam)

1215 S. Laurent (Jam) -

1% Morez — - - -

Aim]

- A third horse, for the six winter-
months, both going and return-

ing.

- A third horse all the year from
Avallon to Rouvray; and vice
versa, during the six winter-
months.

- A third horse all the year from
Maison-neuve to Rouvray; but
not from Rouvray to Maison-
neuve.

A third horse all the year From
Vitteaux hither, but not return-
ing.

- A third horse all the year from
this place to La Chaleur, but
not returning.

- An extra quarter of a post is paid

on quitting this city.

- A third horse, for the six winter—
months, both going and return-

ing.

- A third horse, throughout the year,
both going and returning,

- A third and fourth horse through-
out the year, both going and
returning.

- A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.

- A third horse all the year, both
going and returning: a fourth
horse going, but not returning.

A third horse all the year, both
going and returning ,
D

 

34 APPENDIX. CHAP. n.

1% Les Rousses - - - - A third and fourth horse all the

year going, but not returning.
1%: La Vattay

2 Gen: - - - - - - This is the last French post. A
third and fourth horse all the
year from Gex to La Vattay;
but not returning.

2 Genéve ‘ - - - - - A third horse throughout the year
-— from Geneva to Gex, but not
642‘; posts. returning.

The price of post-horses between
Geneva and Gex is the same
as in France‘.

The road through Dijon and Poligny to Geneva having been
already described, I shall add nothing further on the subject
except this, that Travellers ought not to attempt passing the
J ura during winter, nor very early in the spring, lest their pro-
gress should be impeded by snow.

Route from Lyons to Geneva, by Cerdon and S. Germain-de-Joux.

1i Zlfirabel

l Alontluel

Ii Meximieux

1% S. Denis - - - - - Best inn, Le Lian d’Or.
] S. Jean-le- Vieux

1% Cem’on

1% S. AIartin-du-Freme

l Nantml

1% S. Gcrmain-de—Joux ‘
1 Claatillon

1% Avanclzy

1% Coulonges

2 S. Genix

l Geneve.

 

19 posts.

“ See, under “ Arrnnmx, Switzerland," the continuation of this route, from
kneva. by the Simplon, to Milan.

 

CRAP. 11. FRANCE—AUTUN, AND CHALoxs-SUR-SAONE. 35

Route ﬁ'om Paris, through Lyons, to Ckambery.

29-i- Rouvray - - - -

1 Rocke-en-Berng
la}- Saulz'eu - — - -

l4}— Pierre-Ecrz'te - ~

H
hair-

2%Autun- - - -

2 S. Emilmz - - —

11'r S. Leger- - — -

l Bourgnezgf - - -

13, Chalons-sur-Saéne -

- See the route from Paris to Ge~
neva, through Dijon.

- A third horse for the six winter-
months, both going and return-
ing.

- A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.

Chissey - - - - - A third horse all the year from

Chissey to Pierre—Ecrite; but
not returning.

- This town contains above 9,000
inhabitants; and is adorned with
two gates, The Porte d’Arroux,
and The Porte S. Andre}, both of
which merit notice. Autun was
anciently called Augustodunum.
Here are several inns, namely,
L’Ecu, La Bouteille, Le Cerf-
noir, and La Ville de Paris.

- A third horse all the year from
Autun to S. Emilan; and vice
versa for the six winter months.
A high and steep hill. Country
beautiful.

- A third horse all the year from
S. Leger to S. Emilan; but not
returning.

- A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.

- called, by Caesar, Cabillonum. This
city, situated at the mouth of
the Central Canal, which unites
the Saéne and the Loire, con-
tains 12,000 inhabitants; and is
embellished by a ﬁne Quay, on

which stands an excellent inn,
The Hétel du Parc. Les trais
D 2.

36 - APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

Faisans, Les trois Maures, and
La Cloclze, are likewise good

inns.
A Cache d'eau sets out daily from

Chalons for Lyons.

2 Seneceg

I; Tournus - - - - A third horse both going and
returning, for the six winter
months.

2 S. Albin

2 MAcon - - - -

- This city, anciently called Matisco,
contains 1 1,000 inhabitants; and
is adorned with a beautiful
Quay, from which the Alps are
discoverable. The wine of Ma-
con is particularly celebrated;
and Le Saurage, and L'Hétel

de l‘ Europe, are good inns.
2 Maison-Blanche

1% S. Georges tz’e Ragnains
1% S. Georges-(i-Anse

l—E, Limonest - - - - - A third and fourth horse all the
year going, but not returning.
1% Lyon -‘ — - - - - Athird and fburth horse all the

._..__.

year from Lyons to Limonest;
but not from Limonest to Lyons,
This city, anciently called Lug-
dunzmz, said to contain 100,000
inhabitants, and, in point of
riches, the second city of France,
is watered by the rivers Rhone
and Saéne (anciently the B120-
danus and Arar), and surround-
ed by a beautiful country. T he
Hé'tel de V illc contains some
antiquities; and from the Quay
of the Rhone, which is very
magniﬁcent. Mont-Blane may be
discovered. The great Hospi-
tal particularly merits notice;

3'0} posts-

 

at...

CHAP. II. FRANCE—LYONS, SIC. S7

and the Theatre is a good one.
There are several hotels at
Lyons; all of which furnish com-
fortable accommodations“. A
Diligence goes in four days and
a half during summer, and in
four days during winter, from
this city to Turin. A Diligence
goes daily to Marseilles; and a
Cache d’cau three times a week
to Avignon.
The road from Rouvray to Lyons

is, generally speaking, good.
An extra half-post is paid on
entering, and a post on quitting
Lyons.

13E— Bron - — - - - - A third horse all the year going,
but not returning.

1 S. Laurent-des Aldres

1% La Veryoillicrc - - - This village contains a tolerable
inn.

1% Bourgoin - - - - - - A ﬁne road from Bron hither.

*2 Lu T our-du-Pin- - - This town is seated on the Bour-
bre.

1 Gaz — - - - - - Immediately beyond La Tour-du-l

Pin, on the right, lies the route
to Grenoble.

1-} Pont-de-Beauvoisz'n - Frontier of France. AtGuinguette,
between Gaz and Pont-de-
Beauvoisin, the Rhone, the

* This is a cheap place for permanent residence: but persons who wish to live
economically, either here or in any other provincial town of France, should lodge
and board in a. private house with a respectable French Family. Board and lodging
for one person seldom costs more than thirty pounds sterling per annum. House-
rent in these towns is cheap; as a comfortable family-residence may sometimes be
procured for twenty-ﬁve or thirty pounds per annum. Mutton and beef are cheap;
the former being from three to ﬁve pence English, the pound; the latter some-
what less. Bread is cheap. Fowls and ducks are about two shillings, English, the
couple; and turkies from two to three shillings each : game also is cheap and
plentiful.

 

38 APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

mountains of Bugey, La. Char-
treuse, and Savoy, are all dis-
coverable. Pont-de-Beauvoisin
is situated on the Guieres.

2 Echelles - - - - - A third horse all the year, both
going and returning. The
Guiers, a torrent over which ,'
a ﬁne bridge has been thrown, %
forms the boundary between
France and Savoy; and about
six miles from this bridge is the
once terriﬁc passage of La
Chaille: but the present road
being bordered with a dwarf
wall, every appearance of dan-
ger has vanished.

Echelles is seated on the Guieres,
whose waters are here seen
issuing impetuously from the
mountains of La Chartreuse:
and about ﬁve hundred paces
beyond Echelles commences
the celebrated Chemin de la
Grotte, made by Charles Em-
manuel, second Duke of Savoy;
and so wonderfully improved
by the Emperor Napoleon, as
to be at this moment one of the
safest and most magniﬁcent
roads in Europe.

l;L S. T hibault-de-Coux - A third and fourth horse all the
year, both going and returning.

Between the Chemin de la Grotte
and S. Thibault-de-Coux the
road traverses a mountain so
lofty that the air on its summit
is cold even during summer.
Near S. Thibault-de-Coux, at a
short distance from the road, is
a ﬁne cascade, formed by a

\
CHAP. u. FRANCE—CHAMBERY, &c. 39

‘ stream of limpid water, which
falls perpendicularly from the
height of an hundred and twenty

feet.
1% Chambery - - - - A third horse all the year, both
—— going and returning*.

74 posts. V
Chambery, the capital of Savoy, is pleasantly situated in a
fertile valley watered by the rivulets Albano and Leisse; and
contains about 10,000 inhabitants. The heights that surround
this little city are covered with vineyards, pasturages, and forests

of ﬁrs; above which rise pointed rocks, fantastically shaped,

and enormously high. Inns, S. Jean Baptiste, and La Paste.

Route from Paris to Lyons, through Nevers and Moulz'ns.

8 Fontaz'nebleau - - - See the route from Paris to Ge-
neva, through Dijon.

An extra quarter of a post is paid
on quitting Fontainebleau every
way, the Moret-road excepted.

2 Nemours - - - — - Thislittle towniswell-placed,well-
built, and watered by the river
Loing, and the Canal of Briare.
The new bridge is handsome,
and the inns are tolerably good.

15 La Croisiere

l Fontenag

l Puits—la-Lande

l Montargis

1% La Commodite’

l Nogent-sur- Vernisson

1% Bussiere
2% Briare - - - - - This town has given its name to

the Canal which forms a com-
munication between the rivers

' See, under “ APPENDIX, ITALY," the continuation of this Route, from Cham=
bery, by the Mont-Cenis, to Turin.

40 APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

Seine and Loire; the latter of
which is seen, covered with veso
sels, from the hill above Briare.

2 Neuvy

1% Come

1% Pouz'lly

1% La Charité - - - - pleasantly situated on the Loire.
1% Pougues - - - - - Here are mineral waters.

1.} Nevers - — - - - This city (anciently Nivemum) is
seated at the conﬂuence of the
Nievre and the Loire, over the
latter of which rivers there is a
ﬁne bridge. The Palace of the
Dulces of Nevers is deemed a
beautiful specimen of Gothic
architecture. The choir of the
great Church merits notice. Prin—
cipal inns, L’Hé'tel Royal, and
L’ Ho’tel du Lion d'or.

1% lilagng

1% S. Pierre-le-Moutier

1% S. Imbert

1.} Villeneuve

I; Moulins - - - - - This town, situated on the Allier,
is embellished by a magniﬁcent
Bridge; and contains the Alan-
soleum of Montmorencg, who was
beheaded under Louis XIII. It
is deemed a ﬁne piece of sculp-
ture, and stands in the College
Royal. In the environs of Bres-
sdl, a village near Moulins, there
is a considerable quantity of
petriﬁed wood.

2 Bessay

2 V arelmes - - - - - About noon the famous mountains,
called Puis de dee and Mont
(for, are discoverable from this
town.

1% S. Gérand - - - - The inn here is a good one.

 

. Z
.{i
«I
’:.;

CIIAP. u. FRANCE—ROUTE TO LYONS. 41'

1%; La Palisse
1% Droiturier

1 S. Illam'n- - - - - A very high situation. The road
near this town exhibits ﬁne
landscapes.

1 La Pacaudiére

1% S. Germain Z’Epinasse

1% Roannc - - - - - Hence to Lyons the road is very
hilly. At Roanne the Loire be-
comes navigable. Best inns,
L’Hdtel de Flmza’res, and L’Hd-
tel du Renard.

1 L’Hopital

l S. Symphorien

1% Pain—Bouclzaz‘n

~15 Tarare - - - - - Peasants usually keep oxen at the
foot of the mountain of Tarare,
to aid carriages in ascending.
Fine views of the Alps between
Tarare and Lyons.

1% Arnas

2 Salvigny \

1% Lyon *

 

59% posts.

' From La Palisse to S. Gérand a third horse all the year going, but not
returning.

From La Palisse to Droiturier a third horse all the year going, but not
returning.

From Droiturier to S. Martin a third horse all the year, both going and
returning.

From Pacaudiére to S. Martin a third horse all the year, going, but not
returning.

From Pacaudiére to S. Germain a third horse all the year, both going and
returning.

From Roanne to S. Symphorien a third horse all the year, both going and
returning.

From S. Symphorien to Pain-Bouchain a third horse all the year, going, but not
returning.

From Tarare to l’ain-Bouchain a third horse all the year going, but not
returning.

From Arnas to Salvigny a. third horae all the year, both going and returning.

 

 

4:2 APPENDIX. ' CHAP. 11.

Route from Lyons, through Avignon and Air, to Nice.

1 8. Fans
1 S. Sympﬁorien d’Ozon - A third and fourth horse all the
year, both going and returning.
1,} Vienne - - - - - A third and fourth horse all the
year, both going and returninrr.
An extra quarter of a post is ,
paid on entering, and on quit- *
ting Vienne. This city con-
tains several antiquities; among
which are an Amphitheatre al-
most entire; the ruins of a tri-
umplzal arc/z, erected in honour
of Augustus, and a Temple
adorned with columns thirty
' feet in height.
The wine called Cote-rotie, is
made near Vienne.

2 Auberive - - - — - A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.

1 Péage dc Roussillon - - A third horse for the six winter
months, both going and return-
ing.

Rambert

1%; S.
1% S. Vallier- - - -

This town, seated at the conﬂuence
of the Galaure and the Rhone,

contains a good inn.

1} Tain - - — - - - celebrated for red and white
wine, called IIermitage.

2; Valence - - - - - A third horse for the six winter
months, both going and return-
ing.

Valence, called Valentia by the
Romans, contains a University,
and an ediﬁce, now made into
a Church, which is supposed
to have been originally built
by the Romans. Pius VI died
here. Best inn, The Post-Hausa

M‘ _

CHAP. II.

1% La Paillasse
1% Loriol

1% Derhiéres
1% Montelimart

2 Donzére -

2 La Palud

1% Mornas -

1% Orange

2 Sorgues -

1% Avignon

FRANCE—AVIGNON. 43

- The Post-house here is one of the

best provincial inns on the Con-
tinent.

- A third horse all the year, both

going and returning. This
town contains a good inn; and
the wines of the neighbourhood
are excellent.

- A third horse throughout the

year from La Palud to Don-
zére.

- A third horse, throughout the

year, both going and returning.

- remarkable for a triumphal Arch,

erected in honour of Marius
and Catulus, and almost entire.

- A third horse, throughout the

year, both going and return-

ing.

- This city, seated on the left bank

of the Rhone, and built in the
Italian style, was anciently call-
ed Avenio: contains 23,000 in-
habitants, and a considerable
number of handsome ediﬁces;
the most striking of which is
the Cathedral. The ci-devant
Church of the Cordeliers con-
tains the Tomb of Laura. The
Hé'tel d’Europe is one of the
best inns France can boast;
and The H6tel de Petrarque and
Laura, between Avignon and
Vaucluse, is celebrated by Tra-
vellers for its dinners, consist-
ing of excellent trout and other
ﬁsh.

44

2

APPENDIX. CHAP. II-

The Fountain of Vaucluse is
within a few miles ofAvignon.
S. Audio! - - - - - Between this place and Avignon
‘ a ﬁne wooden bridge has been
lately thrown over the Durance,
anciently Druentia; a rapid
river, which Travellers were
formerly compelled to cross in
a ferry, sometimes at the risk
of their lives.
Organ - - - - - ~ The inn here is good.
Pant-Royal -' — - - The country, from S. Andiol hi-
ther, is, generally speaking,
ﬂat and uninteresting.
S. Canat
Aix - - - - - - A third horse, throughout the
year, both going and return-
ing. The two last stages are
hilly.
Aix, anciently called Aguw-
Sextice, and the capital of Pro-
vence, stands in a spacious
plain, watered by the Arc, is
handsomely built in the Italian
style, and contains 23,700 inha-
bitants. The mineral Waters
and hot Baths here, have long
been celebrated. The Cat/ze-
a’ral merits notice; as that part
called La Rotona’e, is adorned
with columns which once be-
longed to a Temple of the Sun;
and the College-Chapel is em-
bellished with an Annunciation,
and a Visitation, by Puget.
This is a cheap town for perma—
nent residence: its best inns
are, L’Hé'tel du Cours, L’Hétel
des Princes, and La [Mule
Blanche.

 

 

CHAP. II.

1% La Galim'ére
1:} La Grande Pugére
2% Tourves

I § Brignolles

1% F lassans

1 L210

bl» MW

1
1 Billy

2 F rejus

Vidauban

FRANCE—FREJUS. 45

An extra half-post is paid on quit-

ting Aix.

- A third horse all the year, both

going and returning. Between
La Grande-Pugére and Tourves
there is a steep hill; and the
whole road from Aix to the
last-named Post is at times rough
and rotten.

- This town is pleasantly situated

between the rivers Carancin
and Issole. A third horse,
during the six winter months,
both to go and return.

- A third horse all the year, both

gomg and returning.

- A third horse all the year, both

going and returning. The road
from Brignolles hither is good.
The country abounds with olives,
vineyards, and corn.

- A third horse all the year, both

going and returning.

- A third horse all the year, both

going and returning.

Frejus, called by the Romans

Forum Julii, still exhibits ves-
tiges of its ancient splendour;
namely, one Arc}; ofﬂze Port
made by Caesar, and the ruins
of an Aqueduct, 8zc. : but What
must always render this town
memorable is, that Napoleon
landed here on his return from
Egypt; embarked here, when
banished to Elba; and landed
again, not far hence, after quit-
ting that Island.

46 APPENDIX. CHAP. n.

The country round Frejus is mag-
niﬁcently wooded.

2 Lestrelles - - — — - A third horse all the year, both '

, going and returning. The
mountains from which the last-
mentioned Post derives its name
may almost vie in height with
the Alps; and are richly cloth-
ed with myrtles, arbuti, and a
great variety of other ﬂower-
ing shrubs. These mountains
exhibit beautiful scenery.

3 Cannes ~ - - - - .A third horse all the year, both
going and returning. This is
the precise spot where Napo-
leon landed in 1815.

 

 

2 Antibes — - - - - A third horse all the year, both
going and returninm
Antibes, anciently called Anti— ,

polis, and celebrated for the
elegance of its Port, which is
adorned with circular arcades,
somewhat in the style of the
ancient Port of Ostia, likewise
contains Ruins of ah Ampizi-
theatre.

4* Nice - - - - - - A third horse all the year.

The country between Antibe-s and
Nice is an extensive plain
near the D’Iediterranean sea,
embellished with hedges of
pomegranates, myrtles, and
aloes; and watered by the Var,
which divides France from the
dominions of the King of Sar-
dinia. Travellers going to Nice
were formerly obliged to ford

.__.

66 posts.

* The distance, according to the French Post-book, is 4 posts from Antibes to

Nice; but the Italian Post-books call it only 2% posts.
See, under “ APPENDIX, ITALY,” the continuation of this Route from Nice to

Genoa.

CHAP. II. FRANCE—VOYAGE DOWN THé RHONE. 47

the Var, an operation which
was always impleasant, and
often dangerous; but a long
wooden bridge is now thrown
over that torrent.

Route from Lyons to Avignon, by Water*;

Families who wish to descend the Rhone from Lyons to Avig-
non, may either take the Cache d’ea-u to themselves for ten
Louis-d'ors, or perhaps less, the expense of putting a carriage
on board, and disembarking it at Avignon inclusive; or they
may, for the same price, hire a private boat. We pursued the
latter plan; and, quitting Lyons about noon, arrived before six
in the evening at Cordreuz'l; where we slept. The views on
each side of the river, between Lyons and Cordreuil, are beau-
tiful. The second day we left the last-named place about nine
in the morning, and were presented with views even ﬁner than
on the preceding day. A magniﬁcent chain of lofty rocks
clothed with vineyards, and crowned with ruins of ancient
castles, formed the great features of" the landscape; while, here
and there, a small village at the water’s edge, and sometimes a
large town in a valley between the hills, added to the richness.
of the scenery. Deserted Chateaux, and Convents, placed on
the pinnacles of craggy rocks, presented themselves at ever-y
turn of the river; while the rocks frequently appeared in such
wild and extraordinary shapes, that one might easily have mis»
taken them for castles with giants striding on their battlements.
No words, however, can do justice to this enchanting scenery ;7
which is rendered doubly beautiful by the immense breadth,
peculiar clearness, and great rapidity of the Rhone. About
four o’clock we arrived at Valence ; which commands a distant
view of the Alps, and stands directly opposite to a picturesque-
rock, crowned by the remains of a castle. We slept at the
Post-House, a tolerably good inn, though too far from the--
water. The third day we quitted Valence at nine in the morn-—
ing; and found the rocks increase in magnitude, and the pro-

* The road from Lyons to Avignon and Marseilles being frequently in bad,
condition, it is advisable for Travellers to go down the Rhone, if pussible.

 

I a
48 APPENDIX. CIIAP. n.

spect of the Alps grow more and more sublime as we proceeded.
Early in the afternoon we came in sight of the Pont S. Esprit ;
and passed under the middle arch, without experiencing, in
consequence, any disagreeable sensation. This celebrated
bridge, three thousand feet in length, is built with consummate
skill and beautiful simplicity.

The inn at S. Esprit is good. The fourth day we left this
town at eight in the morning, and arrived at Avignon about
twelve. There are two castles, opposite to each other, not far
from the Font S. Esprit, which form a picturesque View. On
approaching Avignon we found the country ﬂat, and the pro—
spects less pleasing than before.

Route from Avignon to Nismes and Blontpellier.

2:11 La Bégude de Saze - A third horse all the year. both
going and returning.

2% La Four - - — - - A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.

1—;— S. Gervasy - - - - A third horse all the year. both
going and returning.

1% Nismes - - - - - This city, anciently called Ne—

mausus, and said to contain
40,000 inhabitants, is adorned
with handsome modern build-
ings; but more particularly
worth seeing on account of its
Amphitheatre, and several other
monuments of antiquity; one of
which, called La. ﬂIaison szr~
rc’e, and supposed to have been
a Corinthian Temple, erected
by the people of Nismes about,
the year of Home 754, in ho—
nour of Caius and Lucius, sons
of Agrippa, is in high preserva-
tion. Here, likewise, are re-
mains of an ancient P/zm'os.
Best inns, Le Louvre, and Le
Luxenzbom'g.

 

 

 

CHAP. II. FRANCE—MONTPELLIER. 49

T he Fountain of Nismes has long
been celebrated; and the Pont-
de-Garde, a Roman Aqueduct,
(attributed to Agrippa), 174
Paris-feet in height, and 728
in length, is not quite four
leagues distant from this city,
and well worth notice.

1% Uchau - - - - - An extra quarter of a post is paid
from Nismes hither.
1; Lunel - - - - - celebrated for its wines.

1% ColombiEres

1% Montpellier - - - - This town, anciently called Aga-

tlzopolz's, and supposed to con-

16% posts. tain 33,000 inhabitants, has
long been famed for its climate;
which, though unfavourable to
weak lungs, is in other respects
salubrious. Rain seldom falls
here; snow and fogs are equally
uncommon; but the marin, or
sea-wind, produces damp; and
the vent de bise, which conti-
nually visits Montpellier, is of
all winds the most piercing*_
The principal hotels are Le
Clze'ual Blane, L’Hétel du Midi,
Le petit Paris, and Le Luxem-
bourg: but persons who pur-
pose to reside any length of
time at Montpellier should hire
a ready-furnished apartment,
and have their dinner from a
T raiteur. Here are a Theatre,

 

’ The vent de bise prevails so much, in all the southern part of France, as to
render the climate prejudicial to consumptive persons: and beside this objection
to the above-mentioned country, there is another, of almost equal magnitude,
namely, the natives still retain the character given of them by Horace:

“ Nom’sque rebus i7y‘idelz's Allobrox.”

App] E

50 APPENDIX.

 

an Aqueduct, and several plea-
sant Promenades. Montpellier
and Grasse are famous for the
best perfumes in France.

The Mason-Spider is an extraor-
dinary insect, which Naturalists
report to be found only near
Montpellier.

Routefrom Aix to Marseilles and T oulon.

2 Le Grand-Pin - - - An extra quarter of a post is paid
on quitting Aix. A third horse
all the year, both going and re-
turning.

2 Marseille - - - - Between Le Grand-Pin and Mar-
seilles, and about half a league
from the latter, there is one of
the ﬁnest views in France.

Marseilles, anciently called Ma-
silia, and one of the largest and
safest Ports of the Mediterra-
nean, is supposed to contain
111,150 inhabitants. The Ca-
thedral, a very ancient ediﬁce,
is adorned with the works of
Puget: and La Consigne con-
tains a celebrated representa-
tion of the Plague, by the same
master. The Arsenal merits no-
tice. The Theatre is one of the
handsomest in France; and the
Lazzaretto one of the ﬁnest in
Europe. The principal inns are
L’Hé'tel des Amhassadeurs, Rue
Beauveau ; La Croix de AIaZte,
Rue des Pucelles; L’Ho‘tel des
Empereurs, Rue Szgﬂ‘ren ; L’Hd—
tel d'Em‘ope, Rue ale Pavillon ,-
L’Hdtcl dc F mnhlin, Rue Beau-

 

.3 i
(Hi
‘63.

CHAR- n. FRANCE—TOULON, HYERES, &c. 51

new ; L’Hdtel de Pologne, Rue
Thgar; and L’H6tel des Princes,
Rue Canebie‘re. The Quay, and
the environs of Marseilles are
beautiful; but this town, during
summer, is much infested by
moschettos. An extra half-post
is paid on quitting Marseilles.
2 Auhagne

 

1% Cujes
2 Beausset - - - - - Athird horse all the year, both
going and returninO. '
2 Toulon - — - - - A third horse, during the six Win-
ter-months, from Toulon to
l 1% posts. Beausset, but not returning.

Toulon is supposed to contain 26,000 inhabitants. The Ports,
the ilIarine—Arsenal, the Hillel de Ville, adorned with two co-
lossal Caryatides, by Puget, a ceiling in the house he once oc-
cupied, representing the Fates, the ilIilitaTy-Arsenal, the Laz-
zaretio, the Cathedral, and the ci-devantSeminaire, are the objects
best 'worth notice in this city.

Near Toulon is the small town of Hz/c‘res, opposite to some
Islands of the same name (anciently called the Stazchacles), and
about one league distant from the sea. This town is so much and
so justly celebrated, for the excellence of its climate during
winter, that Valetudinarians are sent hither from all parts of
France; but during the summer months it is particularly un-
wholesome. Oranges, lemons, and pomegranates, grow most
luxuriantly at Hyéres in the natural ground; and sugar-canes
are said to do so likewise, when properly cultivated.

Rom-from Paris to Bordeaux and Bayonne.

1,} Croicc de Bernis
] Lonjumeau

11‘, Arquon

1% Estrechg

l Etampes

1 ﬁlontdesir

E2

 

3';
52 APPENDIX. CRAP. II.

1+} Angerville

1% T oury

1%- Artenay

l Ckevilly

1% Orléans - - - - - This city(anciently Aureliani)con-
tains about 40,000 people *. The
great Church is elegant and ma-
jestic, and the environs are de-
lightful. The Fauxbourg d’Oli-
vet communicates with the city
by a Bridge which is much cele-
brated. Orleans is embellished
with a University, an Academy
of Sciences, and a public Li-
brary. In the Hdtel de Ville
there is a portrait of the Maid
of Orleans. An extra half-post
is paid on quitting Orleans, and
on entering, by the way of F erté
S. Aubin.

2% Ferté S. Aubin

2 Motte-Beuvron‘

l Nouan

2 Salbris

1% La Loge

2 Vierzon - - - - - A small, but ancient town.

1% Massag

2 Vatan

1% Epine-Fauveau

2 Chateauroux - - - This town is situated in an exten-

sive and beautiful plain. Best
inn, S. Catherine.

Lottier .

Argenton

Fag

Ville-au-Brun

Morterol

2 Chanteloube

N Hl¢
J-Im

N ts)
NIH cap-c

=l' Orleans is a remarkably cheap town for permanent residence,

CHAP. II. FRANCE—LIMOGES, PERIGUEUX, AND BORDEAUX. 53
a

2 Maison—rouge

1% Limoges —

- - - This city (anciently called Lemo-

m'ces) contains 20.000 people.
The ci—devant Abbey of S. Mar-
tial is interesting on account of
its antiquity. Best inn, L’Hﬁtel
de Perigord. An extra quarter
of a post is paid on quitting Li-
moges.

1—; Az'xe’

I; Gatinaud

1% Chalus

1-} La Coquille

2 T hiviers

1% Palissans

1% T avemes

1% Périgueux - - - - This city (anciently called Petro-
coriz') is famed for delicious
meat-pies. Here are some R0-
man Antiquities—and near the
town is aFountain, remarkable
for the daily ﬂux and reﬂux of
its waters. Best inn, L’Hétel
de France.

2%- Massoulie

2 Illucz'dan

2 ﬁlont-pont

2 S. ﬁIe’ard

2.1. Lihourne

1% S. Pardoux
2 Carbon-61am:
2 Bordeaux -

- An extra half-post is paid from

Carbon-blanc hither.

Bordeaux (anciently called Burdigala), one of the largest,
richest, and handsomest cities in France, is seated on the Garonne,
and supposed to contain 99,000 people. The objects best worth
notice are—the Cathedral, adorned with two extraordinary hassi
relievi—the Exchange—the Church of the ci—devant Chartreux-

 

3“
n

544 APPENDIX.

 

Convent—the Theatre—the Quays—and the remains 9f Roman
Antiquities. The Wines of Bordeaux- are excellent. Best inn,’
Le Mare‘chal de Richelieu.

1% Bouscant - - - - An extra half-post is paid on quit-
ting Bordeaux. '

Castres

— Cerous

~w~ H“

§ Langon

Bazas

Captieua:

Poteau

Rogueﬂﬂt

Caloy

Mont-de-Marsan

Campagne

T artas _

Pontons

S. Paul-les-Dax

S. Geours

Cantons

0ndres

Bayonne - - - - This town is ﬁnely situated at the
conﬂuence of the Nive and the

108% posts *. Adour. T he Cathedral is a ve-

nerable ediﬁce. Travelling-beds

may be purchased at Bayonne.

Best inn, S. Etienne.

A—INNNHl—‘N I—Ib-Kto END-I H
M» ~1~ +7.1 m1~ zo1~ 51- mm»- H

“H

 

Route from Paris to Brest.

2% Versailles - - - - An extra half-post is paid on quit-
ting this town.

’ A third horse throughout the year at every post, both going and returning,
between Orleans and Argenton.

A third horse throughout the year from Argenton to Fay, but not returning;

A third horse ail the year between Fay and S. Pardoux, both going and re-
turning.

A third horse for the six winter-months, both going and returning, between
Bordeaux and Langon.

 

is!

4

(2119?. II. FnAxcn—LAVAL, AND RENNES. .55

2%

Pont-c/zartrain

1% La Queue

1%

1

~Houa'an

ﬁlarolle

1% Dreux - - - - - Memorable for the battle of 1552,

h—l p—l n—I
NH MH '4—

N l0
NIH

a up
NIH HH

NIH p|~

HH

NNUNH"

[Q

I.
7.

2

under Charles IX.
Nontmcourt
Tillieres
Verneuil - - - - - Memorable for the battle 0f1424.
S. lilaurice
Blortagne
Le Alfie-sur-Sarthe
Zile’nilbroust

Alencon - - - — - An extra quarter of a post is paid

on quitting this town.
S. Denis sur Sarton

Pres-en-Pail

Ribag

Alayenne

RIartigné

Laval - — :— — - This town contains15,000 people;
there are quarries of jasper in its
vicinity. Best inn, Le Louvre.

Gravelle

Vitré - - - - - - This is a considerable town.

2 Chateau-60mg

1%

lVog/al
Rennes - - — - - This city (anciently called Re-
dones) is supposed to contain

about 29,000 people.-— T kePlac'e-

A third horse all the year, both going and returning, between Langon and
Captieux.

A third and fourth horse all the year, both going and returning, between Cap-
tieux and Poteau.

A third horse all the year, both going and returning, between Poteau and
Roquefort.

A third horse all the year, both going and returning, and a fourth horse going,

but not returning, from Caloy to Mont-de-Marsan.

A third and fourth horse throughout the year, both going and returning, from
Mont-de-Marsan to Bayonne.

56 APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

RoyaIe—The Palais de Justice
-—and T he H6tel de Ville, merit
notice. Best inns, Le Tour
d'Argent, and L’Hé'iel de France.

1% Pace’

1% Bedée

1% JlIontauban

1% S. Jean

1 Broons

1% Langouédre

2 Lamballe

2% S. Brieux - - - - This town has a good Port.

2 C/zatelaudren

1% Guz‘ngamp

1; Bois—mormaat

1 BellisZe-en-térre

2% Pontou

2 ﬁlorlaz'x - - - - - The Church ofN. D. des ﬁlms is
a singular ediﬁce; the Hospital
is a ﬁne one, and the Port con—
siderable. L’Hdtel d’Europe is
a good inn.

1% S. Egonec

1 Landivisiau

2 Landerneau

1% Guipava

1 Brest* - - — - - An extra half-post is paid on en-
-—- tering this town, and on quit-
74§ posts. ting it.

Brest, anciently called Brivates, is supposed to contain 27,000
inhabitants; and its Harbour, one of the safest in Europe, is
sufﬁciently capacious to admit ﬁve hundred ships of'war. T he
Quays, the Arsenal, and tile Theatre particularly merit notice.
The principal hotels are, La grande ilIaison; Le grand 1110—
7zarque; La Tour d’Argem‘; and Le grand Turc.

Another road from Brest to Paris, through Lamaalle, D0],

* Post~masters are allowed to put on a third horse at almost every stage between
Mortagnc and Brest.

 

'4’!

CHAP. n. FRANCE—DUNKERQUE. 57

Maienne, and Alengon, is ﬁve posts shorter than the road
already described.

1%
1%

1%

H

NH sly-4 NIH

HNHHHHHHH-‘H
BID-t 5..

.—
Mu N}- toll—I

H

to

in!
“a N“

H
4H

Route from Paris to Dunkerque.

Bourget

L on vres
Chapelle—en-serval
Senlis

Pant S. Alaxence
Bois-de-Likus

Gournag

Cuvilly
Cauchy-les-Pots

2 Rage

F oncﬁes
AIarcké—le-pot
Péromze

Fins

Ban-Avis
Cambray.
Bac-Aubcncheul
Douay
Pont-d-Marcq
Lille
Arme7ztz'eres
Bailleul

Cassel

Berg-S. W'z'nox
Dunkerque.

 

38 posts.

Dunkerque, so called from originally containing the Kirk of
the Duns, is supposed to have 21,200 inhabitants. The houses
are built with uniformity, the front of the church of S. Eloi merits
notice, and the Quay is a ﬁne one. 7 The best inns are, The
Post ; The Hdtcl d’Angletérre ; The Hdtel du Sauvage, and The
H6161 du 1V0rd*.

* From Dunkerque to Paris, through Calais, Boulogne, and Amiens, is 39
posts; and through S. Omer, Arms, and I’éronne, S7.

58,~ _ APPENDIX. CHAP1iI.

,.
2:

Route from Lille to Ostend, through Ypres.

2 Warneton

2 Ypres - - - - - - The Church of S. Martin——the
Canal of Bb'singen—and'the
ci-devant Jesuits’ College, merit

notice.
2;- Dixmude
3 Ostende - - - - - See (under “ Appendix, Ger-
__ many”) the route from Vienna
9% postss through Ratisbon and Brussels
to Ostend.

Route from Lille to Brussels.

 

1% Pont-h-Tressain

1% T ournag

2 Leuse

1% Ath

1% Enghien

1% Hall

1% Bruxelles - - - - - See (under “ Appendix, Ger-
many”) the route from Vienna,

1 1 posts. through Ratisbon and Brussels,
to Ostend.

Route from Paris to Ostend, through Brussels.

1% Bourget

2 Mesnil-Amelot '

1 Dammartin - - - - This place commands aﬁne view,
and the ruins of the Castle are
picturesque.

1% Nanteuil-Haudouin

1% Lévignen

2 Villers-Cotteretz ‘ ~
1% Verle-Feuille
1% Soissons - - - - - Anciently called Suessz'ones. The

great Church, and the ci—a’evant
Abbey of S. ilIe’dard, where
Louis le Déb'omzaire was con-
ﬁned by his children, merit no-

 

_CHAP. n. FRANCE—MONS, AND BRUSSELS. 59

tice. The environs of this city
are charmina. An extra half-
post is paid on quitting Soi-s-

sons.

2 Vourains

2 Loan - - - - - - Prettily situated on the summit of
a hill.

2% ZVIarZe

1—}; Verrz'ns

2 La Capella

2 Avesnes

2 ﬁlaubeuge - - - - When Travellers are obliged to
send for horses to Douzies, they
pay, in consequence, an extra
half-post.

2 hions - - - - - - The famous battle of Genappe,
which took place in 1792, was
fought near Mons—The Castle
-—tlze Abbey de Wautru—and
the ci-devant Jesuits’ College,
merit notice. V

1 Casieau

1% Braine—le—Comte

2 Halle ,

1—;- Bruxelles - - - - - There is another road, in distance

“ 34% posts from Brussels to
Paris, through Valenciennes.
Both roads are chieﬂy paved,
and tolerably good; though in
some places they want repair *.
1% Asclze
1% Alost

1% Quadregt

1" Persons who go from Brussels to Paris, through Genappe, Valenciennes,
.Mons, Cambray, andS.Que7ztln, should visit at the last-named town, the Tunnel cut
through solid rocks, and passing three miles under ground, to facilitate the inland
navigation from Cambray to the capital. This Tunnel, one of the most patriotic
works of Napoleon, is well ventilated, lighted by means of lamps, and usually pro-
vided with water about six feet deep. It admits one barge only at a time, towed by
men, who have a commodious gallery to walk in.

60 APPENDIX. CHAP. 11.

l Gand

2 A lteren
2 Bruges
2 Ostende.

 

46 posts.

Route through Reims,fi-om Paris to Liege and Sedan.

12% Soissons - - - - - See the route from Paris, through
Brussels to Ostend.
2% Braine
1% Fismes
1% Jonchery
2 Reims - - - - - - This town is said to have 30,000
inhabitants. The great Church
is a ﬁne Gothic structure, with
a beautiful front. The Church
(3f S. Nicholas, the Place-Rogale,
and some remains of Roman
Antiquities, merit notice. At
Courtagnon and Méri, in the
neighbourhood ofReims, alarge
number of fossils are continually
discovered. An extra quarter
of a post is paid an quitting
Reims.
2 Isle
2% Rethel
2i Launoy
2 Mezieres - ~ - - - An extra quarter ofa post is paid

on quitting this town. A third
horse all the year between Re-
thel and Launoy, and Launoy
and Mezieres.

2?; Sedan - - - - - - Here is agood Arsenal andaCan-
non-Foundery. The great Tu-
renne was born at Sedan. Best
inns, La Craig: d’Or, and Le
Palais Royal.

CHAP. II. FRANCE—MEAUX, &c. 61

3 Paliseua:

2% Telin

2 Marcke

2 Bouzin

2 Nandrin

2 Liege - - —* - - - See (under “ Appendix, Ger-
-—- many”) the route fromBrussels,
44% posts. through Aix-la-Chapelle and

Liege, to Spa.

Route from Paris ,to Strasburg, through Chalons-sur-Mame,
S. Dizier, Bar-le-Duc, Nancy, Luneville, Plzalzbourg, and
Saverne.

1% Bondy - - - - — - This town gives its name to the
neighbouring forest.

1 ' Vert-Galand

1 Clage - - - - - - Between Paris and Meaux is a

plain, famed for the retreat of

the Swiss, in 1567, under Pfyf-

fer, who escorted Charles IX,

Catherine de Medicis, and the

ladies of her court, in safety

to Paris, by cutting his way
through the army of their ene-
mies.

2 Mean} - - - - - This town stands in a beautiful
plain, watered by the Marne,
and was the first place which de-
serted the party of the League,~
and submitted to Henry IV.
Over one of the gates are these
words :—Henricum prima ag-
novi. Good cheeses are made
at Meaux. Best inns, La Si-
rene, and La Croix d’Or.

1% S. Jean

1 La Ferté—sous-Jouarre - A small town, embellished with
pretty walks.

2 La Ferme-de-Paris

1% Chdteau-Tkierg - - - The birth-place of La Fontaine.

62 _ , APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

1 Paroy
1% Dormans

 

1 Port-a-Bz'nson

1 La Cave

1 Epcrnag - - - - - Famed for its Wines.

2 Jdalons

] Mastogne

1 Chalons-sur-Marne - - T/ze Ho‘tel de Ville, tlze Great
Church, and tire Jard, are the
objects best worth notice. Near
this city Attila was defeated by
the Franks and Romans. Best
inns, La Pomme (l’Or; Le Pa-
lm's-Royal ; La Croia: d’Or;
and La Ville de lVanc‘y. An
extra quarter of a post is paid
on quitting this town.

,1 Cite‘pi

1 La C/zaussée

l S. Amand

l Vitr‘y-le-Frangais — - Built by Francis I.

2 Longclzamp

1‘; S. Dizier - - - - - Here the Marne becomes navi-
gable.

1‘: Saua’rupt

1% Bar-le-duc - - - - Famous for sweetmeatsgtrout, and
excellent wine.

2 Ligng/

l S. Aubin.

1% Void

l; Lage ’

1% Toul - - - - - - The principal Church, and ci-de-

‘ want episcopal Palace, merit no-
tice. The wines of Toul are
good.

1; Velaine

1% Nancy - - .. - - This ﬁne city suffered cruelly from
a battalion of Republicans, who
passed through it in 1792, and
destroyed all the chefs-d’wuvres '

CHAP. II. FRANCE—STRASBOURG. ' 689

of art they unfortunately met
with. The Place-Royale merits
notice, as do the Tombs of the
ancient Duhes of Lorrain, in the
ci-devant Franciscan Church.
The Cloister of the Franciscans
an hon secours contains the grave
of hing Stanislaus, the great
embellisher of this city. The
Theatre is pretty, and the H6-
tel de petit Paris and the Hotel
Royal are the principal inns.
An extra quarter of a post is
paid on quitting Nancy.

2 Damhasle

% Luneville

1% Benamenil

2 Blamont

Q Heming

1 Sarrehourg - - - - HeretheSarrebecomes navigable.
l Hommartin

l Phalsbourg

1‘} Saverne - — - - - The road over the mountain of

Saverne is much celebrated, and
does honour to human industry.
1 g 11"asselcﬁzne
14; Itienhez'm
1% Strasbourg.

 

58% posts *.

Strasburg (anciently called Argentoratum) contains 50,000 in-
habitants. The objects best worth notice in this city are, The Alan-

* A third horse all the year between Epernay and Jz'ialons.
Do. between S. Dizier and Saudrupt.

Do. between Saudrupt and Bar-le-Duc.

Do. between Ligny and S. Aubin.

Do. between Velaine and Nancy.

Do. between Blamont and Heming.

Do. between Saveme and \Vass’elonne.

A third horse, during the six winter-months, between Ittenhcim and Strasbourg.

64 APPENDIX. CIIAP. 11.

ster, and its famous T o‘wer—the Church of S. Thomas, which con-
tains the Mausoleum of Marshal Saxe, by Pigale—the Arsenal and
Cannon-Foundery—the ci—devant episcopal Palace—the public
Granaries—the Fouudling-Hospital—the Hospital Bourgeois—-
the Observatory—the Maison de Ville—the Citadel—-the Bridge
over the Rhine—and the Public Library, which is open on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Here is an Academy of
Music, a French, and a German Theatre. The Ville de Lyon is
a good inn; as are the H6tels do l’Esprit, ([6 la Fleur, la Alaison
Rouge, &c.

Route from Paris to Strashurg, ihrough T rag/es, Langres, 'ezoul,
Befort, and Basle.

Charentorz
Groshois

Brie- Comte-Robert
Guignes

1Wormaat

N angis

NIH

1U aison-rouge

Provins

Nogent-sur—Seine

Pont-sur-Seine

Granges

Gréz

Troyes - - - - This city is supposed to contain
about 27,COO people. TheCothe—
dral—the Church ofS. Etienne
-—-and the Chateau (once the re-
sidence of the Counts of'Cham-
pagne), are the objects best
worth a Traveller’s attention.
The water here is scarcely
drinkable. An extra half-post
is paid on quitting Troyes.

NIH RIM 9|“

Hle—Ihlt-lr-ﬂtehﬁl-ll-l

[‘3 v—
NH Mu NIH

2% Montiérame
1% Vandwuvre
2% Bar-sur-Auhe - - - Celebrated for its wines.
1% Colomhey
Suzennecourl

1
2 Chaumont - - - - Thefrom‘ (fthe College Church is

 

 

CIIAP. n. FRANCE—VEZOUL, &c. 65

2 Vesai'gnes
2 Langres - - —

l Gryj'bnoites
1 Fag-Billot
l Cintrqy
]% Combemt-Fontaine
1% Pant-sur-Saone

1% Vezoul - - -

Calmoutier
Lure - - — -

MIN

Nil-I.

2% Chairmagney
2 Bg’ﬂn‘t - - -

Chavanes
Altlcirlc
T rois-llI uisons

Basle“ — — -

ENNN

admired. Best inn, La Fon-
taine.

- - This is the highest-situated town

in France. Several Roman An-
tiquities have been found here.
T he mineral waters of Bourbonne-
les-Bai7zs are only seven leagues
distant from Langres.

- Celebrated for its wines. Princi-

pal inns, Les Diligences ; L’Aigle
Nair,- La Téled'Oz‘. At Leugne,
a village to the east of Vezoul,
there is a famous Grotto. T he
mineral-waters of Luxeul are
only six leagues from Vezoul.

- This town is peculiarly situated on

an island formed by a pond,
and surrounded with woods and
mountains.

- A strong town. Principal inns,

Le Luxembourg,- La Ville de
Versailles ,- Le Sausage.

- Frontieptown of Switzerland. See

(under “ Appendix, Germany")
the route from Augsburg to Con-
stance, Schaffhausen and Basle.

* Persons who like water-parties should, if possible, go down the Rhine to

Strasbourg.

Am]

66 APPENDIX. CHAP. II,

Travellers ought to avoid arriv-
ing late at night here, lest the

gates of'thetown should be shut,
1 S. Louis-sous-Hum'ngue

1-;- Gros-Kempt

1 Bantzenhel'm

1% Fessenheim

1—;- Neuf-Brisach - - - Built by Louis XIV. The Post-

house is out of the town.
2 JVIarkolsheim

 

2% Friesenheim

1% Kraft

2 Strasbourg _ — — - You drive through the beautiful
plains of Alsace, and discover

69% posts. at a great distance the Munster-
Tower of Strasbourg.

Route from Paris to Besangon, through Langres.
34% to Langres - - - - See “ Route from Paris to Stras-

bourg, through Basie."

1% ngjeau

3 Champlitte

2% Gray - - - - - - Apretty town. Principal inns, La
Ville de Lyon, and Le Chapeau
rouge.

1% Bonboillon

1% Recologne

2 Besancon.

 

47 posts.

Besancon, anciently called Vesontio, is a large and handsome
town, seated on the Doubs, and possessing a strong Citadel,
erected on a rock by Louis XIV. Here are several remains of‘
antiquity; the most interesting of whieh are, an Amphitheatre
of an hundred and twenty feet in diameter; a triumphal Arch,
and the ruins of a T emple. Principal inns, L’Hotel National,
and L’Hdtel des Anciens Sau'vages. The environs of this town.
are picturesque; and contain celebrated warm Baths.

 

CIIAP. II. FRANCE—GRENOBLE. 67

Route from Paris to Grenoble.

60}: T0 113/071 - - - - - See the route from Paris to Lyons,
by Auxerre and Autun.
1% Bron *
1 S. Laurent-des-Jllﬁres
1% Verpillz‘ere
1% Bourgoin
1% Eclose
2 La F réte
1% Rives
1% Voreppe
2 Grenoble

 

74 posts.

This city, seated on the Isere, and anciently called Gratiano-
polis, is supposed to contain 30,000 inhabitants. The objects
best worth notice are—the General- Hospital—the great
Church—tile Arsenal—and a bronze Hercules, which adorns
one of the Promenades. T he seven Wonders, in the environs of
Grenoble (which, by-the-by, do not quite deserve their name),
are—La Tour sans venin—La Fontaine—ardente—La Montagne
inaccessible—Les Caves de Sassenage—Les Pierres opktalmigues
de Sassenage—La M'amze de Briangon—and La Grotte de N. D.
de la BalmeT.

* A third horse all the year from Lyons to Bron; but not returning.

Do. from Bourgoin to Eclose; but not returning.

Between Eclose and La Fréte, a third horse during the six winter months,
both going and returning.

A third and fourth horse throughout the year from Voreppe to Rives, but not

returnin rr.

1‘ Route from Grenoble to Gap, leading to IlIont-Genevre; and theni‘e to
Turin; by way of’Embrun, ﬁlont—Dauphin, and Briangon.

2 Vizille - - - - It is much to be lamented that no Post-
Houses are established on the direct road
from Vizille to Briangon and Mont-Ge-
névre ; as a ﬁne road has been lately made
over that Alp, which is considerably lower

F 2

 

 

68 APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

Route ﬁom Paris to Perpignan, through Toulouse.

40% Limoges - - - - - See the route from Paris to Bor-
deaux.
Pierre-Bu ere
1% Magnac
I; ﬁlasseré

2 Uzerelle
Saint Pardoux

1% Donzenac

1% Brives

2.}, Cressensae

2 Souillac

2% Peg/me

2g Pont-de—Bodez

2% Pélacog/

2% Cahors - — - - - Anciently called Cadurci. Here
are some remains of a Romaiz
Amphitheatre.

3 Madeleine

Caussade

2;- Montauban - - - - A handsome town, beautifully si-
tuated, on a hill; and contain-
ing above 23,000 people. The
best inns are, Le T apis Verd;
than Cenis, and provided with a Convent
for the accommodation of Travellers.

A third horse all the year between Grenoble

and Vizille.

1 La F fey - - - - A third and fourth horse all the year going,

but not returning.
A third horse all the year, both going and

1} La Mure - - -

returning.

13‘ Souchons - - - - A third horse all the year, both going and
returning.

la} Corps - - - - A third horse all the year, both going and
returning.

2 La Guingette-de-Boyer

1‘: Brutinet
1% Gap . - - - ~ The last Post-House established on this
-— road is at Gap. Principal inns, Hotel de

11 posts. Lm'al, H File! (16 Marchand.

anP. II. FRANCE—TOULOUSE, CARCASSONNE, &c. 69

2,} Grisolies
L} S. Jorrg
2i- Toulouse

 

91 posts.

L’Hétel des Ambassadeurs ; and
Le grand Soleil. An extra
quarter of a post is paid on
quitting Montauban.

This city, watered by the Garonne, and anciently called To-
losa, contains 55,500 inhabitants. The ﬁ‘ont of the Hétel de
Ville and the Bridge merit attention; the latter being one of
the ﬁnest in Europe. Toulouse is embellished with a variety

of pleasant Promenades.
and de France.

Castanet - - - —

H
ml.-

Bassiége

Villefranclze

I—l I—l
MN NIH NIH

k»)

1% ’z'lle-pinte
l Alzonne

2% Carcassonne - - _

‘2 Barbeira
1%llloux- - - - -

2 Cruscades
2% Narbomze

Castelnaudary - -

Principal inns, L’Hﬁtels du Nord,

- An extra quarter of a post is paid

from Toulouse to Castanet.

- This town is near the great Canal

of Languedoc.

- In the upper-town is a castle

which contains some old law-
deeds, written in a very peculiar
manner upon the bark of trees.
The ci-devant Capuc/iin-clmrck
merits notice. Principal inns, _
L’H6tel de L’Ange; L’Hétel
de S. Jean,- and L’Hétel de
petit Paris.

- A plain covered with olives, vines,

corn, and mulberry-trees, and
encircled by barren rocks.

I
- - - - Here are rums of several Roman

 

70 APPENDIX. CHAP. II.

ediﬁces, and in the Cathedral is
the tomb of Philip the Bold.
Principalinns, L’Hﬁtelde la Dau-
rade, and L’Hotel de France.
This city was anciently called
Narhonensz's.

2% Sigean

2 Fitou

1 salces

2 Perpignan - - - - The great Church deserves notice.

118 posts *.

Route from Paris to La Rochelle, through Chartres, Tours, and
Poitiers.

2%- Versailles

2 Conniéres

1% Ramhouillet - - - - Here is a strong castle, in which
Francis I, expired.

1% Epernon

1 Maintenon

2i- Chartres - - - - - Anciently called Carnutes. The
great Church and its Belﬁy are
well worth seeing. ’

2 La Bourdiniere

Bonneval
Chateaudzm

1% Cloge

2 Pezou

1% Vendé'me

1% Newve S. Amand

H Chateau-Regnault

2 Alonnoge

* Post-Masters are authorized to put on a third horse at every stage between
Limoges and Grizolles: and, at Souillac, the post-master is authorized to add a
pair of oxen to every four-wheeled carriage, going either to Peyrac'or Cressen-
sac; charging three francs, drink-money for the driver inclusive.

A third horse all the year between Villefruncbe and Castelnaudary; for the six
winter-months between Castelnaudary and Villepinte; Do. between Carcassonne
and Barbeira; and all the year between Narbonne and Perpignan.

 

 

(HAP. II. FRANCE—TOURS, AND POITIERS. 71

1% Tours- - - -

Carrés - - -

n—n
HIV-1

.Montltazon
Sorigng
S. Maure
Ormes

% Ingrarza’e
Chattellerau/t
Barres-de-Nintré
La T richerie
Clan
Poitiers - -

{OI—IHHHI—INN—IH

- - Anciently called Turones. This

town, pleasantly situated on
the Loire, contains 21,000 in-
habitants. The MalL—the Ca-
tlzedraL—and the Church of S.
ZlIartz'n, merit notice. The Ca-
thedral-library contains valua-
ble manuscripts. Tours is one
of the most eligible situations
in France for a permanent rc-
sidence; the society being ex-
cellent, the surrounding coun-
try beautiful, and the climate
particularly salubrious, and ver}r
seldom visited by the vent dc
hise; added to which, provi-
sions and house-rent are cheap.
An extra quarter of a post is
paid on quitting Tours, except
by way of Monnoye.

- This country is watered by the

Loire and the Cher, and famed
for excellent fruits.

- This town, formerly calledPictavi,

is built at the conﬂuence of the
Claim and the Boivre, and said to
contain 2 1 ,OOOinhabitants. Here
are the remains of an ancient
Theatre, and a triumphal Arch,
or Aqueduct, the latter of which
is now converted into a gate,

 

72 APPENDIX. CHAP. 11.
1 H'Croutelle <8
2% Lusz'gnan
1% Villedz'eu-du-Perron
2 S. Maixent
1 La Crc‘clze
1*} Niort - - ~ - - - This town contains a Gothic
Church, which was built by the
English. Principal inns, Le
Raisin de Bourgogne; Les trois
Pigeons; L’Hotel de la Pair,
&c. Niort is said to have
15,000 inhabitants.

I), Frontenay

1—; Mauzé

l Laigne

li- Nuaillé

1% Grolaud

1 La Rochelle - - - - Here are the remains of a cele-

—— brated Dike, which was con-

61 posts. structed by Cardinal Richelieu.
La Rochelle contains 18,000
inhabitants, its harbour is safe
and commodious; and its prin-
cipal inns are, L’Hétel des
Ambassadeurs, and L’ Hotel des
Princes. The road through
Tours and Orleans to Rochelle
is 61 posts; and that through
V endome, Tours, Poitiers, Nzort
and Saintes 69 posts and a
half".

Route from Paris to C/zerbourg, through Caen.

1 Nanterre
12}; S. Germain-en—Lage

1‘ A third horse all the year between Monnoye and Tours.

Do. for six months between Tours and Ormes.

Do. all the )ear between Poitiers and Lusignan.

Do. all the year betueen Lu Creche and La Laigne.

Do. during the six “inter-months bet“ cen La Laignc and N umlh

 

 

 

CHAP. 11. FRANCE—CAEN, CHERBOURG, &c. 73_
1% T riel
l Meulan
2 AIantes
1% Bonnieres
.2 Pacg
2 Evreux
2% La Conzman’a’erie
2 La Riviere- T/Libouville
1% Le AIarcké—neqf
1% L’Hétellerie
1% Lisieux
2 Estre‘ez
1—; iMoult
2 Caen - - — - - - Alarge city, remarkable for being
the burial-place of William, the
I Conqueror of England. Prin-
cipal inns, The Hétrls d’An-
gleterre, de Londres, ‘d’Espagne,
6:0. An extra quarter of a
post is paid on quitting Caen.
1% Brettevillc l’Orgucilleuse ’
2 Bayeux
1% Vaubadon
2% S. Lo
1% S. Jean Day
1% Carentan
1% Sainte 1Were-Eglise
2 Valognes
2% Chcrbourg - - -« - The improvements made in this
Harbour by Napoleon highly
44 posts. merit notice. Inns, L’Hétel
d’Angleterre; Le grave Turc,
&c.
Route from Paris to L’Oricnt, throng/l Rennes.
44% Rennes - - - - - See the route from Paris to Brest.

2 M ordelles
2% Ple'lan
2 Cam pélzr’ac

 

743 APPENDIX. CHAI’. II-

1 ploférmel
l Roe-S. A na’ré
2 Pont-Guillemet

 

1% Vannes - - - - - Inns, Le Dauphin, Le Lion d’or,
and L’Hétel de France.
2 Auray - - - - - Near this town is a ci-devant Char-

treuse, which merits notice.
2 Landevant
1% Hennebon

1% L’ Orient — - - - - This is one of the prettiest towns
._.__ in France. Inns, L’Hﬁtel de
63% posts *. Commerce, and L’Hétel des

Etrangers.

Route from Paris to Nantes.

10% Dreux - - - - - - See the route from Paris to Brest.
1% Mor'uz'llette
1 Chateau-nay
l Dign‘y
1% La Louppe
2 Regmalard
Bellesme
S. Cosme-de- Vair
% Bomzetable
Savigné
% Le Mans - - - - - This town, watered by the Sarte.
contains above 18,000 inha-
bitants: its Cathedral merits
notice: its principal inns are,
Le Croissant ,- Le Dauphin, and
La Beale (PM.

[0 [Q

Hui-4

2 Guesselara’
l Foulletourtc
2,“ La Fleclze
1% Durtal

' A third horse, during the six winter-months, between Rennes and Piélan.
Do. the whole year between Plélan and Ploermel.

Do. during the six winter-months between Ploermcl and S. Andre.

Do. the whole year between S. Andre and Vannes.

A ”$69

anp. u. FRANCE—NANTES, AND SAINT-MALO. 75
2 Suette a’
2% Angers - - - - - Alarge and populous town, seated

on the Mayenne.

E
NH

S. Georges
Champtoce
Varades
Ancenis
Oudon

La Saillerage
Nantes

thhdHHH

a)»: A)» .th bl“ N~

 

48%— posts.

Nantes, the Condivz'cum of the Romans, and one of the most
considerable cities in France, contains 75,000 inhabitants. It
is built at the conﬂuence of the rivers Erdre and Sévre with the
Loire, and adorned by twelve bridges; most of which are very
handsome. Among the best hotels are L’H6tel de France, and
L’Hﬁtel des Etrangers. An extra quarter of a post is paid on
quitting this city.

Route from Nantes, through Rennes, to Saint-Mala.

1; Gesvres

7} La Croix—Blanclze

2 Now];

{r Derval

1-; Bre/zarayc

2. Roudun

2 Bout-de-Lande

2 Rennes

’7 Hedé

2'1 Saint-Pierre-de-Plesguen

1-; deteauneqf

I; Saint-Mala - - - - An extra half—post is paid if the
‘ tide be high.

 

22 posts *.

*9 A third horse, all the year, between Nantes and Gesvres.
_ Do. during the six winter-months between La Croix Blanche and Nozay.
Do. during the six winter- months between Bout-de-Lande and Rennes.

76 APPENDIX. CHAP. III.

SgMalo is built on a rock, surrounded by sea, and com-
municating with the land by a causey, called the Silon. The
Ramparts merit notice. The best inns are, L’Hétel du Com-
merce; L’H6tel de la Pair; L’Hétel de France; and L’Hétel
des Voyageurs.

 

CHAPTER III.

SWITZERLAND.

Post-horses, (Sm—Most advantageous way of seeing Switzerland
———]lloneg/ of that country—Geneva—Arrival and departure of
Letter-Couriers—Expense of living at Geneva—Diligences—
Hotels—Route, going past, from Geneva, by tile Simplon, to
Milan—price quost-lzorses on that road— Passage of S. Gothard
—Passage ofthe Grand S. Bernard—Passage of Splugen.

POST-HORSES are only to be met with in particular parts of
this country; but draught-horses may always be hired of Swiss
Voiturins; as may saddle-horses and mules". Persons, however,
who wish to see Switzerland to advantage, should travel on foot;
a mode so Commonly adopted that the Foot-Passenger is as well
received, even at the best inns, as if he came in a splendid
equipage. The expense incurred by travelling on foot through
Switzerland seldom exceeds ﬁve shillings, English money, per
day, for each Traveller: half a crown being, on an average, the
price of a table-d'lzdte supper, wine and lodging inclusive; and
Pedestrians should make supper their principal meal.

Accounts are kept in livres and batz; one Swiss livre being

A third horse, all the year, between Rennes and Hedé.

Do. during the six winter-months, between Hedé and Chziteauncuf ; and all the
year between Chateauneuf and S. Male.

‘ The price, per day, of a pair of draught-horses, is from twelve to sixteen
florins, beside half a ﬂorin to the driver. The price, per day, of a saddle-horse, or

mule, is an ecu ueuf.

 

we

.ﬂ

“#6:.

tﬁ?‘ a”
s x ,

cu. m. SWITZERLAND—GENEVA—ROUTE OVER THE SIMPLON. 77‘

ten batz, or thirty French sous. The louis-d’or, the Napoleon,
the French ecu, and demi ‘ecu, are the coins which pass best
throughout Switzerland.

GENEVA.

Arrival and departure quettcr- Couriers.

Letters from Great Britain arrive on Tuesdays, Wednesdays,
Fridays, and Sundays, at six in the afternoon, by the French
Courier.

Letters for Great Britain go on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fri-
days, and Saturdays, at eight in the morning, by the French
Courier.

Geneva is not a cheap place for permanent residence; but,
nevertheless, there are Genevese Families who take Boarders at
four louis-d’ors a month; whereas a person who hires a private
lodging, and dines daily at a table-d'lzé’te, cannot spend less
than double that sum.

This town is famous for watches, and gold trinkets of all de-
scriptions.

Diligences go several times a week from Geneva to Lausanne,
Neuchatel, Lyons, Grenoble, and Turin, by way of the Mont-
Cenis.

Route, going past, from Geneva, 63/ the Simplon, to Milan : being
a continuation oftlze military Route made by Napoleon.

The price of Post-horses from Geneva, by the Simplon, to
the Frontier of Switzerland, is the same as in France; unless
(which sometimes happens) Travellers be imposed upon, and
made to pay in Swiss livres.

2% Domino

2 T leonon

I; Evian

2% Saint-Gingoux
2% Vionnaz

2% Saint-Maurice
2% Martigny

q
.06

APPENDIX. army. III.

'Riddes
Sion
Sierre
Tourtemagne
Viége
Glise, or Brigge
Barisello
Sempione
Iselle
Dome-(1.0380111 - ~ - Travellers who wish to avail them-
selves of the Domo-d'Ossola
Diligence, which leaves Milan
every Tuesday and Saturday, at
two in the afternoon, and meets
the Courier at Domo-d’Ossola
every Wednesday and Sunday
morning, should address a note
to the Bureau Saint Ambrose,
a' la Palla, ﬂIﬂan.

[\DLDNN

0310-“

[C3 . to
NH «NH NIH w|~ 9IH «NH «NH NH NH NH

[O

2 Vogogna

3 Fariolo

% Arena

1—;— Scsto-Calendc
2 Cascina
l

l

 

52% posts.

Passage of Saint-Goihard.

Previous to the existence of the new roads over the Simplon
and Cenis, this was one of the most frequented routes from
Switzerland into Italy: and the journey from Fluelen to Bel-
linzone is easily accomplished in four days, whether on foot or
on horseback: neither can this passage be called dangerous at
any season, except while the snow is meltinO‘. Between Fluelen
and l’Hopital, the Pfrﬁn-Sprzmg, the Cascade, the Devil's
Bridge, the Schiillenen, the Urner-loch, and the beautiful pI'O‘

 

CHAP. II. PASSAGE or s. GOTHARDaAND s. BERNARD. 79

spect presented by the Valley of Urseline, are the objects best
worth a Traveller’s attention. A little beyond the village of
l‘Hopital is Z’Hospice des Capuchins, where Travellers meet with
clean beds, good wine, and a hospitable reception; in return for
which they are expected, on going away, to leave a triﬂing
present for the support of this useful establishment. The sum-
mit of S. Gothard is a small plain, encompassed by lofty rocks;
and the height of this plain is supposed to be 6790 English feet
above the level of the Mediterranean sea. Between l’Hospice
and Bellinzone the views are beautiful; and the whole route is
much embellished by the river Tesino, the forests of ﬁrs, the
pasturages, the pretty hamlets placed in elevated situations;
and the vines, poplars, chesnuts, walnuts, and fig-trees, which
continually present themselves to view.

Travellers who pass S. Gothard on foot, or on horseback,
usually sleep the ﬁrst night at Ursern; the second at Airolo,
where the inn is good; the third at Giorm'co; and the fourth at
Bellinzone. Carriages may pass, by being dismounted, from
Altorf to Giornico, - but the expense of this operation is seldom
less than twenty-four louis-d ors.

Travellers may either proceed from Bellinzone to Milan by
the Lago Maggiore, or the Lago di Como *.

Passage ofthe Grand Saint Bernard.

Persons who wish to go the shortest way from French Swita
zerland into Italy usually cross the Grand S. Bernard: there is,
however, no carriage-road beyond Branchier; though English
carriages have occasionally been dismounted at Martigny, and
carried over the mountain to Aoste, at the expense of eighteen
or twenty Napoleons per carriage, according to its size; the
transport of trunks not included. The price, per day, for every
porter-mule employed on S. Bernard, is twentynsix batz, guide,
and tax for the Commissary inclusive; though Foreigners pay
more.

* The Lake of Como, anciently called Lacus Larius, is said to be ﬁfty miles in
length ; from three to six in breadth; and from forty to six hundred feet in depth.
This Lake, combined with the town of Como, anciently Comum, presents a beau-

tiful landscape. Pliny the younger was born at Como; and in the front of the
Cathedral is his Statue.

8?) APPENDIX. CHAP. m.

From Martigny to L’HOSpice is about nine leagues. At
Lid/16s, where the ascent begins to grow steep, Travellers
commonly pause to see the collection of minerals and antique
medals belonging to the Curé of Arbeley. These medals were
chieﬂy found on S. Bernard. From Liddes to S. Pierre is one
league; and the latter village contains an Inn: here likewise
is the military Column placed by the Romans on what they
deemed the highest part of the Maritime Alps *. This country
is remarkable for deep hollows bordered with rocks, into which
hollows the Drance precipitates itself with such violence as to
exhibit a scene by many persons preferred to the fall of the
Rhine at Schaffhausen. From S. Pierre to L’Hospice is three
leagues; and every step toward the summit of the mountain
increases the steepness of the path, and the wildness of the
prospects. White partridges are seen here in large numbers.

About one league beyond S. Pierre the road consists of snow,
frozen so hard that a horse’s hoof scarcely makes any impres-
sion on it: this road traverses two valleys; the ﬁrst being called
Les Ergfers des F oireuses ,- and the second La Valla'e de [a Combe;
between which spot and l’Hospice the quantity of snow de-
creases. L’Hospice is supposed to be the most elevated of all
human habitations in the old world; and some benevolent
Monks of the Augustin order live here constantly, for the pure
pose of accommodating and succouring Travellers; several of
whom owe their preservation to these humane ecclesiastics;
who make a practice of searching out every unfortunate person
lost in the snow-storms, or buried by the avalanches: and in
this search they are aided by large dogs, who scent Travellers
at a considerable distance; and, in spite ofimpenetrable fogs and
clouds of snow, are always able to discover and pursue the right
road. These useful animals (who seldom bark, and never bite
a stranger) carry in baskets, fastened to their necks, cordials
and eatables calculated to revive those persons who are nearly
frozen to death: and notwithstanding all that has been lately

" The most elevated point of the Grand S. Bernard, namely, Mont-Velan,
is supposed to be (as Ihavealready mentioned) more than ten thousand En-
glish feet above the level of the Mediterranean sea: and l’Hospice, according to
Saussure, is eight thousand and seventy—four Paris feet (though subsequent com-
putations make it only six thousand one hundred and ﬁfty Parishfeet) above the

level of the Mediterranean sea.

 

CHAP. Ill. SVVITZERLAND—PASSAGE 0F SPLUGEN. 81

written relative to the extinction of this race ot' dogs, they are,
at the present moment, more numerous than heretofore. Every
Traveller is most courteously received at l’Hospice; and the
Sick are provided with good medical and chirurgical assistance,
without distinction of rank, sex, country, or religion: neither is
any recompense expected for all this hospitality; though per-
sons who possess the means seldom fail to leave a testimony of
their gratitude in the Poor’s box belonging to the Church.
Travellers should, if possible, ﬁnd time to ascend the Col de
Ténébres; (which is not a very fatiguing excursion) in order to
see a ﬁne view of that part of Mont—Blane which cannot be dis-
covered from Chamouni. The valley in which l’Hospice stands
is long, narrow, and terminated by a small Lake, on the ex-
tremity of which the Convent is erected. Near this spot there
formerly was a temple consecrated to Jupiter; and, according
to some opinions, the Convent stands precisely on the site of
this Temple, from which S. Bernard derives its ancient name of
Illmzs-Jovis. The conventual Chapel here contains a Monu-
ment to the memory of the French General, Dessaix; who is
represented as being in the act of falling from his horse into the
arms of a Grenadier, and uttering the words, “ Allez, dire au
Premier Consul,” &c. On the B’Ionument is the following in-
scription: “ A Dessaix; mart (i la [iataille de Afarengo.” The
body was brought hither from hIilan by order of Napoleon,
who erected this interesting piece of sculpture to comme-
morate the heroic death of his Friend. The descent from
l'Hospice to Aoste, occupies between six and seven hours: and
at Aoste there are remains of a iriumplzal Arc/2,, built in the
time of Augustus; the ruins qfa Circus, &c. From the last-
named town Travellers may proceed either to Turin or Milan.
The post-road to the former city, though little known, is ex-
cellent; the country through which it passes beautiful; and the
time employed in going need not exceed twenty hours *.

Passage 9}" Splugen.
Persons travelling from Suabia, or the country of the Grisons,

to Venice, or Milan, will find this the shortest route: though

* See this route, under “ APPENDIX, ITALY.”

App] G-

82 APPENDIX. CHA P. III.

nobody should attempt to cross the mountain of Splugen at the
season of the avalanches: and indeed, at all seasons, great cau-
tion should be used in dangerous places not to agitate the air,
even by speaking in a loud voice. When there is such an ac-
cumulation of snow that the pointed rocks on the summits of the
Alps are covered, avalanches may be expected hourly. The
road, so far as Coire, is good; but carriages can proceed no
further: from Coire, therefore, Travellers must either walk or
ride, or be conveyed in a traineau, or a chaise-a-porteur: and the
safest and pleasantest mode of passing this Alp is under the
guidance of the Messager ,- who goes every week from Lindau
to Milan, and undertakes, for a certain price, to defray .all the
expenses of the passage, board and‘lodging inclusive. It is a
much greater fatigue to cross Splugen than Saint Gothard: but
the wildness and sublimity of the prospects compensate for
every diﬂiculty. The road between Coire, and the village of
Splugen, is called Via-[Waltz ,- not, however, from being a parti-
cularly bad road, but, in consequence of the terriﬁc aspect of
the country through which it passes. One of the most striking
objects in this route is the Patcn-Briiche; where, by leaning
over the wall (if a bridge, the Traveller discovers an abyss which
the rays of the sun never enlightened, and at the same time
hears the tremendous roaring of the Rhine, which forms, in this
place, a circular basin, whence it issues, like a silver thread, out
of a narrow passage in the rocks. Beyond the Paten-Briicke is
Schamserthal, one of the most romantic vallies of the Alps; and
in the Rhcimvald, or forest of the Rhine, are ﬁrs or" so uncom-
mon a magnitude, that one of them is said to measure twenty-
ﬁve ells round the trunk. Thefall of the Rhine, in this forest.
exhibits one of the sublimest objects in nature; which, while it
ﬁlls spectators with awe, atl'ords them the pleasure of contem-
plating scenes in the creation that no pencil could imitate. The
road here is frequently so narrow, that a Guide should be sent
a-head, in order to stop the beasts of burden (coming from the
opposite side of the mountain), in places where it is possible to
pass them: and to avoid these unpleasant rencounters, and at
the same time escape the wind which rises about mid-day, Tra-
vellers should leave Splugcn between two and three in the
morning. The generality of persons, when they ascend this
mountain, lie down at full length in a traineau, drawn by an ox,

 

CRAP. IV. ITALY. 83

with their heads next to the pole; because the ascent is so steep,
that their feet would otherwise be considerably higher than the
rest of their bodies. It takes a couple of hours to reach the
summit, where there is a good inn. The descent on the oppo-
site side, called the Cardinal, exhibits terriﬁc precipices; at the
bottom of which runs the Lyra, with an impetuosity that seems
momentarily to increase. The Traveller is then presented with
a view of the melancholy valley of S. Jagues; and proceeds
amidst broken rocks, and fallen mountains, in rude confusion
piled upon each other, like the disjointed fragments of a de-
molished world; till at length, the hills of Cliiavenna, covered
with peach and almond~trees, gradually present themselves to
view; and unite with the balmy zephyrs of Italy to banish
fatigue, by exhilarating the spirits.

Travellers usually embark at La Riva, and continue their
journey, either by Como or Beigamo.

 

CHAPTER IV.

ITALY.

LEGIIORN, PISA, AND FLORENCE.

Italian Posts—Italian BIiles—Price (if Post-lmrses in northern
Italy—D0. in Tuscany—D0. in the Principality of'Lucca—Do.
in tlze Ecclesiastical Territories—Do. in tlze Kingdom afiYaples
-—0tlzer particulars relative to travelling post in Italy—Parti—
culars relative to travelling en voiturier— T uccany—Cm‘rent
coins—Bankers" accounts—«Pound—‘weiglzt—-Tuscan measure
called a braccio—Prices at tlze principal [Iotels—Buona-mmzo
to Attendants— W'nges g” a V alet-ale-place Leg/torn— Pricegf
carriages—Entrancepaia’ by English Travellers at tlze T/zeatre

 

—Articles [Jest wort/2. pure/1asing—Provisions—Asses’ mil/c—

Fruit—Beccaﬁclzi—Ortolans—Size of a Tuscan barrel of wine

—-D0. (foil—Do. of a catastre qfwoorl—Public carriage from

Leg/10772 t0 Pisa—Boats—Dzlzgencefrom Leg/20271 to Florence
G 2

84 APPENDIX. CHAP. Iv.

 

~—-En'vi‘r0ns que‘ghorn unwholesome—Arrival and departure of
Letter-Couriers—Pisa—Fees to Custom-house (Micers and Illu-
sicians— Winter price quodging-h oases—Boxes atthe Theatre——
Entrance-money—Expense of Joh-carriages—Servants’ wages
—-Dinner at a Restaurateur's—Alode in which dinners should .
he orderedfrom a T raiteur—Firewood—Mats—Eatahles— '
Mil/c, cream, oil, and wine—Scales and weights for kitchen-use
recommended—Music, drawing,.and language-masters—Fees to
medical Men—Banking-hwise—Prices for making wearing ap-
pareL—Boohseller— Tuscany recommended as a cheap country
ﬁr permanent residence—Arrival and departureof Letter- Cou-

riers at Pisa—Price for franlcing letters—Price of a seat in the
Diligence from Pisa to Florence—Persons going this journey
advised not to have their haggageplumhed—Hotels and private
lodgings/muses at Florence—W inter price of the latter; and
where to apply for information respecting them—Price qfhoard

and lodging in an Italian family—F urther particulars relative

to prices at I nns—Coﬂ‘ee-houses—Restaurateurs— Table d’Héte
———Price per monthfor a carriage and horses—Do. per day—
Provisions in general—Asses’ milh, wine, oil, ice, medicines——

Price of Butchers' meat, bread, poultry, &c.—Price oftahle-
wine—Best Bookseller—Shops for foreign wine, English porter,

tea, medicines, S‘c.—Grocer—— Sills—mercer—Linen-drapers—

Shoes and boots— Tailors—Ladies’ dress-mahers— Coachmahers
—1\Ione}/-changer—Firewood—Fees to ﬁledical ﬁlm and No-

taries public—Prices at the Theatres—Illusic AIasters, Eye.—
Sculptors—Paint'er—Baalters—Arrival and departure ofLet-
tcr-Couriers—Country—houses near Florence.

Length of an Italian post. ii

THE length of an Italian post is from seven to eight miles:
but, the miles of Italy differ in extent; that of Piedmont and
Genoa, being about one English mile and a half; that ot'Lom—
hardy, about sixty yards less than an English mile; that of Tus-
cany, a thousand geometrical paces; that of the Ecclesiastical
State, the same length (which is about one hundred and ﬁfty
yards short of an English mile); and that of the Kingdom of
.Naples, longer than the English mile, by about two hundred and

ﬁfty yards.

a;

CHAP. 1v. ITALY—~PRICE 0F POST-HORSES, &c. 85

Price ofPost-Horscs in the Sardinian Territories.

Every draught-horse, per post, one French livre and ﬁfty cen-

times.
Every carriage furnished by a post-master, one livre and ﬁfty

centimes.
Every postillion, seventy-ﬁve centimes.

T arg'ﬁl

Cabriolet“.

No. of persons. No. of horses. Price for each horse.
1, 01' 2 2 l liv. 50 cent.
3 3 l 50
4 3 2

Limonicres.
l, 2, or 3 3 l 50
4 3 2
Berlincs.
1, 2, or 3 4 1 5o
4, 01‘ 5 6 1 5O
6 6 l 75

A child, if under six years of age, is not paid for.

Price quost-Horses in the Lombardo- Venetian Realm.

Every pair of draught-horses, per post, ﬁve French livres, and
ﬁfty centimes. ‘

Every Calesse, furnished by a post-master, forty centimes;
and every close carriage furnished by ditto, eighty centimes.

Every postillion, one livre and ﬁfty centimes. Postillions,
however, are seldom satisﬁed with less than double that sum *.

At Turin it is advisable that persons who intend to travel post
should apply to the Direzione generale delle Paste, for an order

‘ The price of Post-horses in the Duchies of Parma and Modena, is the same
as in the Lombardo-Venetian territories; except from Fiorenzola to Crcmona, and
from Caste] San-Giovanni to Pavia, at which places the price is seven livre; and
ﬁfty centimes for every pair of draught-horses.

86 APPENDIX. CHAP. 1V}
respecting post-horses; which order saves trouble, and prevents
imposition. In the capital cities of Lombardy it is generally
possible to obtain what is called the Cambiatura ; by virtue of
which, Travellers pay somewhat less than the established price
for post-horses, provided they be neither made to gallop, nor
driven after sun-set *.

Price of Post—horses in T uscany.

Every pair of draught-horses, ten pauls a post; except on
quitting Florence, when the price is six pauls per horse.

The third horse, four pauls.

Every saddle-horse, ﬁve pauls.

Every postillion, three pauls. .

Hostler, at every post, half :1 paul.

Every Calessc, furnished by a post—master, three pauls; and
every close carriage, with four places, furnished by ditto, six
pauls.

A Postillion expects ﬁve pauls for every common post, and
six pauls on quitting Florence.

Price quost-Horses in the Principality ofLucca.

Every pair of draught-horses, ten pauls a post.

The third horse four pauls.

Hostler, at every post, half a paul.

Every saddle—horse, ﬁve pauls.

Every postillion, two pauls.

Every Calesse, furnished by a post-master, three pauls.

Travellers, on quitting Lueca, are charged fifteen pauls for
every pair of draught-horses.

Price of Post-liarses in the Ecclesiastical Territories.

Every pair ofdraught-horses, ten pauls a post.
The third horse, four pauls.

Every saddle-horse, ﬁve pauls.

Every postillion, three pauls and a half.

“ Two livrCs a post has lately been the price paid for every draught-horse hes
tween Milan and the village of Simplon.

 

CIIAP. 1v. ITALY—PRICE 0F POST-IIORSES, &c. 87

Hostlr r, at every post, half a paul.

Every Calessc, furnished by a post-master, three pauls.

A postillion expects ﬁve pauls per post.

Travellers are charged an extra half-post on quitting Rome.

Price of Post-Horses in the Kingdom of Naples.

Every pair of draught—horses, eleven earlini a post.

The third horse, one carlino and a half.

Every saddle-horse, ﬁVe earlini and a half.

Every postillion, three carlini.

I’Iostler, at every post, half a carlino.

Every two-wheeled carriage furnished by a post-master, ﬁve
carlini; and every four-wheeled carriage furnished by ditto, ten
earlini.

A postillion expects six carlini per post.

For a post—royal, in the Neapolitan territories, one third more
is charged than the common price.

Hostlers in Italy are seldom contented with less than twice
their due: and the person who throws water over the wheels of
travelling carriages (a necessary operation in hot weather), ex-
pects half a paul for his trouble.

An English post-chaise, with shafts, conveying two or three
persons only, and not heavily laden, is allowed to travel with
two, or, at most, three horses, in those parts of northern Italy
which are not mountainous: but, if the carriage convey four
persons, it is not allowed to travel with less than four horses.
A calesse, conveying three persons, and only one trunk, is al—
lowed to travel with two horses.

In Tuscany, if the read he not mountainous, an English post-
chaise, with a pole, conveying three persons, and no trunk, is
allowed to travel with two horses only: but English carriages
conveying four persons and trunks, are not allowed to travel
with less than four horses. In the Ecclesiastical Territories, a
two-wheeled carriage, conveying three persons, and only one
trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses; but, if it convey more
than one trunk, three horses are indispensible: and persons who
travel with more than two large trunks, are subject to a tax of
two pauls per post for every extra-trunk, vache, or portnian»
teau. A four-wheeled carriage, with a pole, conveying six p012

88 APPENDIX. CHAP. IV. “

sons and one trunk, is allowed to travel with only four horses;
but if it convey seven persons, or six persons and two large
trunks, six horses are indispensible. A four—wheeled carriage,
half-open in the German fashion, and conveying only two per—
sons, and one small trunk, is allowed to travel with only two horses.

To the driver of every extra draught-horse, it is customary
to give two pauls; though he cannot demand any remuneration.

In the Neapolitan Territories, a four-wheeled carriage, con—
veying four persons and one large trunk, is allowed to travel
with four horses only; but ifit convey six persons, and two large
trunks, six horses are indispensible. A two-wheeled carriage,
conveying two persons, and one large trunk, is allowed to travel
with two horses; but, if it convey three persons and a large
trunk, three horses are indispensible.

Every post-master should be paid for his horses before they
set out.

Shafts are not used either in the Tuscan, Roman, or Neapo-
litan Territories.

It is more economical, and less troublesome in Italy, to travel
en voiturier, than to travel post, but it is more fatiguing; be-
cause, persons who accomplish a long journey with the same
horses, must, generally speaking, travel slower than if they
changed horses at every post; and, therefore, persons who fol-
low the latter plan, need not riSe so early as those who follow
the former. If a Voiturin have good horses, they will go from
forty to ﬁfty Roman miles a day; arriving, in due time, at the
destined sleeping-places. Mules are less expeditious, because
they seldom trot.

An Italian V oiturin usually expects about two Louis-d’ors per
day, for conveying Travellers, in their own carriage, from one
part of the Continent to another; and, for this price, he fur-
nishes two or three good horses, or mules, together with break-
fast, supper, and beds, for two persons: but, if he convey Tra-
vellers in a carriage belonging to himself, he seldom expects
more than three quarters of the above-named price; because he
can make a considerable proﬁt by ﬁlling the carriage with pas-
sengers on his return *.

* Persons who understand how to make bargains with Voiturins, have lately
travelled in a good coach with three horses, from Rome to Calais, at eighteen
Louis-d’orsa head; the Voilurier ﬁnding them in breakfast, dinner, supper, and btdb.

 

 

bHAP. IV. ITALY—COINS CURRENT IN TUSCANY. 89

For every day of rest upon the road, Voiturins usually charge
one Louis-d‘or (provided they have only two or three horses,
or mules, to feed) ; and for this sum, they commonly ﬁnd supper
and beds for two persons.

The fare in a public carriage from Florence to Rome, and from
Rome to Naples, suppers and beds inclusive, is from ten to
twelve scudi; unless it be a voiture de retour, when the fare is
about eight scudi.

A Voiturin commonly pays in Italy for his Passengers, the
following prices at inns :

Breakfast, per head, from a paul and a half, to two pauls—
dinner, three pauls—supper and bed, ﬁve pauls: but, persons
who travel post, can seldom, if ever, make so good a bargain.

TUSCANY.
Current Coins.
English.

£ 3. d.
Ruspone, equal to about ............. l 11 6
chclzino ........ . ................. 0 10 6
F ranCescone, or Scudo " .............. O 5 0
Half ditto ........................ 0 2 6
Piece of three paoli, or pauls ....... . . O l 6
Piece oftwo paoli .............. . . . . O 1 O
Lira . ....................... . . . . . O 0 9
Paolo ............ . ............... 0 0 6
Mezzo-Paolo ...................... 0 O 3

Piece of two crazie, four of which make one paolo, or paul.

Crazia, eight of which make one paul.

Quattrino, ﬁve of which make one crazia.

So/do, one of which makes three quattrini.

The paul of Rome is current for one paul of Tuscany.

The two-paul piece of Rome is current for two pauls of Tus-
cany, wanting f‘our quattrz'm'. '

The Spanish dollar is usually current for about nine pauls and
a half. This coin is frequently called a pezzo-duro.

>14 Ten pauls make one Francescone, or scudo; which is ﬁve francs and sixty
centimes of France.

Louis-d'ors are current in Tuscany for forty-one pauls, and four crazie each;
and N apoleons {or thirty-six pauls, and three crazie each.

90 APPENDIX. CHA P. I;

The real value of the ruspone is only sixty pauls; but it can
seldom be purchased under sixty three; owing to the agio on
gold: and, from the same cause, the zecclzz'no, which is worth
only twenty pauls, can seldom be purchased under twenty-one.

Bankers’ accounts throughout Tuscany, are‘kept in pezze,
soldi, and danari; or lire, soldi, and danari.

Twelve danari make one soldo ,- twenty so/di make one Zira‘;
ﬁve lire and ﬁfteen soldi, or, at most, six lire, make the ima-
ginary coin called a pezze, or piece of eight; and for every pezzc,
a Banker charges so many English pence, according to the ex-
change, when he gives cash for a bill upon London. Bankers,
according to the Tuscan law, are obliged either to pay in gold,
or to allow an agio if they pay in silver: the agio varies from
week to week according to the demand for gold.

The pound weight of Tuscany is divided into twelve ounces;
the ounce into twenty-four deniers; and the denier into twenty-
four grains. The Tuscan ounce is somewhat less than the
English.

The common Tuscan measure, called a braccio, is about
twenty-two English inches and a half; two braccia making one ell.

Prices at the principal Hotels are much the same in Leghorn,
Pisa, and Florence; namely, for a large apartment from twenty
to thirty pauls a day; and for smaller apartments, from ten to
ﬁfteen pauls a day. For breakfast, from two to three pauls a
head; for dinner, from eight to ten pauls a head; for servants,
from four to five pauls a head per day; and with regard to
[Juana-mane to attendants at inns, the waiter usually expects
about one paul per day, and the chamber-maid still less; that is,
it'Travellers reside at an inn by the week or month; but, if they
merely come for a few nights, they are expected to pay more
liberally.

The wages of a valet-de—place is four pauls per day through-
out Tuscany, he ﬁnding himself in board, lodging, and clothes.

LEGHORN.

The price of close carriages here is rather exorbitant; but.
open carriages, called Timonelli, ply in the High Street, like
our Hackney coaches, and may be hired on reasonable terms.

* A lira, or livrc, is one paul and a half,

 

 

CHAP. Iv. ITALY—LEGIIORN. 91

The price of a box at the Theatre varies according to the
merit of the Performers; but is usually high. The entrance-
money paid by English Travellers, exclusive of the price of a
box, is three pauls for an opera, and two for a play.

Tea, coffee, sugar, English mustard, foreign wines, brandy,
rum,- arrack, porter, Bristol-beer, and Gorgona anchovies, may
all be purchased cheaper at Leghorn than in any other city of
Italy; so likewise may soap, starch, and hair-powder.

Mecali, in Via—Grande, has a magniﬁcent shop, containing a
great variety of sculpture in alabaster and Carrara marble,
jewels, trinkets, silks, linens, muslins, &c.; but the persons
who serve in this shop usually ask much more than they take.

Silks, linens, and muslins, may be purchased very cheap of
the Jews, by the expert in making bargains.

Persons who wear ﬂannel should provide themselves with a
stock at Leghorn; it being difﬁcult to find this useful article of
clothing in any other part of Italy.

Provisions at Leghorn are, generally speaking, good; butter
and oil, however, must be excepted; as both are very indif-
ferent: but it is easy to obviate this inconvenience, by having
Cascina butter from Pisa, and oil from Lari. Carriers, called
Procaccilzi, go daily to the former place; and from the latter
the Peasants come to sell poultry, fruit, &c. at Leghorn, three
or four times a week.

Invalids may be regularly supplied with good asses’ milk at
one crazia the ounce; (the usual price throughout Tuscany ;)
goats' and cows’ milk may likewise be procured with ease ; but
persons who make a point of having the last quite genuine,
should send into the country for it: and with respect to asses’
milk, it is requisite for some trusty person to watch the milking
of‘the ass, in order to prevent the infusion of hot water *.

Malta and Genoa oranges, ﬁne dates, and English potatoes,
may frequently be purchased at Leghorn. There is an oyster-
house near this city, and the oysters are good, but extremely
dear, Figs and grapes, in their season, are abundant and excel-
lent ; particularly the white fig, and small transparent white grape;

' The man who milks the ass usually carries, under his cloak, a bottle ﬁlled
with hot water; some of which he contrives to mix with the milk so expertly that
it is ditlicult to detect him.

92 APPENDIX. CHAP. IV.

the last of which, if gathered dry, put into paper bags, and hung
up in an airy room, may be preserved all the winter. The best
sort of dried ﬁgs is generally sold in small baskets of about one
foot long and four or ﬁve inches wide. Levant ﬁgs and Spanish
raisins may be purchased at Leghorn; and about the month of
September large numbers of small birds, precisely resembling
the English wheatear, and called in Italian Beccaﬁclzi, are caught
daily on the plain near this town. Ortolans also abound in south-
ern Italy.

A Tuscan barrel of wine contains twenty ﬂasks, and a bar-
rel of oil sixteen flasks. Wood is sold by the catastre, the di-
mensions of which should be these: length, braccia six; breadth,
braccia one and a half; height, lraccz'a two.

A public carriage goes daily from Leghorn to Pisa.

Public boats likewise go daily by means of the Canal, and
the passage-money in these vessels is six crazie, or at most one
paul for each person. The price of a private boat is ten or
twelve livres; and the price of one place in the Diligence, from
Leghorn to Florence, thirty pauls.

It is not advisable for Travellers to hire a country-residence
near Leghorn, its environs being reckoned unwholesome.

Arrival and Departure ofLetter- Couriers.

Sunday at noon arrive letters from Florence, and all the
Tuscan state, Lucca, the Roman state, Venice, Mantua,
Germany, &c.

ﬁlonday morning arrives a Stqﬂeta, with letters for the mer-
chants, from Milan, blantua, Germany, Flanders, Holland,
Great Britain, Piedmont, Verona, Modena, Bologna, and
France, by way of Milan.

T aesday morning arrive letters from Genoa, Lunigiana, lVlassa,
Pietra-Santa, and generally those of Spain, Pisa, and Lucca.

1V ednesday morning, from the kingdom of Naples, Rome, Siena,
Florence, Lucca, and Pisa. At three in tlze afternoon, from
Florence, &c.

T kursday about noon, from Venice, Great Britain, Holland, Flan-
ders, Germany, &c.

Friday morning, generally, arrive letters from France.

Alonday evening, precisely at eiglzt o'clock, go letters for Flo:

 

anr. IV. ITALY—PISA. 9'3

rence, Siena, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Bologna, Ferrara, Verona,
Milan, and all Lombardy, Germany, Lorena, Holland, Flan-
ders, Great Britain, and the other northern countries; Lucca
and Tuscany.

Wednesday precisely at three o’clock, for Germany, Spain, and
Portugal; and at eight in the evening, for Florence, Prato‘,
Pistoja, and Lucca.

Friday evening, precisely at eight o’clock, for Venice, Ancona,
Perugia, Germany, Flanders, Holland, Great Britain, Flo-
rence, Bologna, Ferrara, Lunigiana, Turin, France, Lorena,
Genoa, Lucca, Pisa, &c.

PISA.

A custom-house ofﬁcer follows Travellers to their inn, or
lodging, when they enter Pisa, and expects a fee ofﬁve pauls.
A band of musicians likewise waits upon Strangers at their
arrival, and expects from three to ﬁve pauls.

Best Lodging-Houses. Winter price.

Casa-Agostini, Lung’ Arno, No. 7’22, eighteen sequins per
month.-—Casa—Bertolli, Lung’ Arno, No. 721, large and hand-
some apartments; a third ﬂoor; thirteen sequins a month.—
No 742, Via-Corraia; rooms small, but neat, and sufﬁcient in
number for two persons; price moderate.—Casa-Pera, Lung”
Arno, No. 710, a third ﬂoor; rooms numerous, large, and hand-
some, thirty sequins av month.——-No. 951, Via di Sapienza, two
suites of handsome apartments—No. 694:, Lung’ Arno; two sets
of good apartments; the ﬁrst ﬂoor thirty sequins a month ; the
second ﬂoor, without linen, ﬁfteen sequins.——Casa-Panichi,
Lung-Arno, N0. 716, a neat apartment on the ﬁrst ﬂoor, large
enough for three persons—No. 887, Via S. Maria, fourteen
well—furnished rooms, and a small garden; twenty sequins a
month, if taken for half a year. All these lodging-houses are
well situated for Invalids: other apartments, which have not
this advantage, let at a much lower price. Rooms sufﬁcient
to accommodate a moderate sized family may usually be hired
at The Tre Donzelle for about twenty-four sequins a month.
The price of every lodging, however, varies from year to year,

 

94 APPENDIX. mm P. IV.

according to the number of Foreigners. The hire of linen per
month is generally ﬁve sequins for a large family: but linen and
plate are commonly found by the owners of lodging-houses.

Boxes at the Theatre may be procured on very moderate
terms; except it be during the last week of Carnival, when the
price is considerably augmented. The entrance-money paid by
English Travellers, exclusive of the hire of a box, is two pauls.

The hire of a carriage and horses, coachman’s wages inclu-
sive, is from eighteen to twenty sequins a month; and the price
for an airing, buona-mano inclusive, is ten pauls.

The wages of a Housemaid, throughout southern Italy, is
about three crowns a month and a dinner; she ﬁnding herself
in lodging, bread and wine—the wages of a Footman from four
to eight crowns and a dinner; he ﬁnding himself in bread and
wine—the wages of a Housemaid who finds herself in bed and
board, and fetches Fountain-water, is at Pisa one livre per day *:
and the wages of a good Cook, throughout southern Italy, is
from ten to twelve crowns per month and a dinner; he finding
himself in lodging, bread and wine, and an Assistant to wash
saucepans, dishes, &c.1‘

The price of dinner, per head, at a Restaurateur's, table—wine
and bread inclusive, is from three to ﬁve pauls.

Families who have their dinner daily from a T raiteur should
not order it per head, but per dish; specifying the kind of din-
ner they wish for, and the price they choose to give.

There are various sorts. of ﬁre-wood at Pisa: that called [cgnrz
dolcc is the mest wholesome; though it consumes very quick :
that called leguaﬁrte is usually burnt in, kitchens; but may be
mixed with the other, for parlour—consumption; though I would
not advise the burning it in bed-rooms. Venders of wood fre-
quently cheat in the measure, either by bringing a braccio to
measure with not so long as the law directs, or by placing the
wood hollow, and thus making it appear more than it is: but
Sebastiano Bandoni, No. 762, Via-Carraia, is an honest Dealer
in this article.

“ By Fountain-Whter is meant that conveyed to Pisa through the Aqueduct.

1- It is an excellent general rule either not to let your cook market for you. or
to limit him to a certain sum for dinner, charcoal, and kitchen-ﬁre-woml: but En-
glish Travellers, who are accompanied by honest English Servants, always ﬁnd it
answer to let those. Servants market for them.

., MA . ,

W

CHAP. 1v. ITALY—PISA. 95

The husks of olives serve for fuel, and are an excellent sub-
stitute for charcoal, and in olive-countries very cheap.

Invalids always ﬁnd it necessary to mat their rooms during
winter, in order to avoid the chill which strikes to the soles of
the feet from brick and marble ﬂoors. lVIats of all lengths
may he purchased on the Quay: the price is half a paul the
braccio; and every mat ought to be two braccia and a half
wide. _

The Pisa-market is, generally speaking, a good one; though
fresh ﬁsh can never be absolutely depended upon but on Fridays,
unless it be in Lent. The best ﬁshes are the dory, called pesos
(1i S. Pedro ; the grey and the red mullet, called triglia; the
turbot, called rombo; the tunny, called tonne; the lamprey,
called lmnpwdo; sturgeon, called sturione; ombrina, pesce-
cavallo, spada, denticz', parago, (all ﬁve peculiar, I believe, to
the llediterrancanﬁ the sole, called sngliola ; the Mediterranean
lobster, called gambero di mare; prawns and shrimps. The ﬁsh
which comes from Via Reggie is generally excellent. The tench
and carp at Pisa are remarkably ﬁne; so likewise are the pike,
and other ﬁshes of the Arno and Serchio *. The mutton of
Pistoja, which may frequently be purchased at Pisa, is excel-
lent in point of ﬂavour, and particularly light of digestion. The
Lucca-vcal, frequently sold at Pisa, is excellent. Beef and
pork are very ﬁne; turkeys good; capons and fowls indifferent;
hares excellent; other game plentiful, but not alwya s so well
ﬂavoured as in England. “ ild- fowl good and plentiful. \ e-
nison may be purchased both in spling and autumn, but is
reckoned best du1ing the latter season. V1 1ld boar may be.
purchased duiing 11 inter and sp1ing. W 1th lespect to ga1den-
stuff, the b1occoli and salads a1e particulaily good; but vege-
tables 111 Italy, sallad excepted, should, generally speaking, be
stewed, or they may piobably disagree with weak stomachs.
Pisa is well supplied wi1h grapes, figs, pears, apples, and other
w111te1-fr111ts, the best efwhich come from Florence and Pistoja.
The but er made at the my al Cascina is excellent!» Good cow 3
milk and ocean maybe purchased at the above- named Cascina.

' \Vhat Italians deem the best ﬁshes are distinguished by the appellation of
Pcsce nobile; the taste of Englishmen, however, does not exactlv agree “ith that
of the Italians 1n this particular.

1- This butter supplies the Roman Markets, and 311112215 very little from its
journey.

96 APPENDIX. CHAP. Iv.

Good oil may be bought at some of the palaces; as every Tus-
can nobleman sells the produce of' his olive-gardens and vine-
yards. With respect to table-wine, that of Pisa is unwhole-
some; but that of Florence may easily be procured by water-
carriage, and is not only pleasant to the taste, but salutary to
most constitutions. There are several kinds of Florence-wine;
and that usually drank as common table-beverage, costs from
a paul and a half to two pauls the ﬂask.

Scales and weights are necessary articles of kitchen-furniture
in Italy.

Persons who wish to be instructed in music, drawing, and the _
Italian language, may procure good masters, upon moderate
’terms, at Pisa. Sig. Stefano Romani, an excellent music-mas-
ter, charges only four pauls a lesson.

The common fee to medical men is a scudo from Foreigners,
though the natives give much less. Some of the English Tra-
vellers give a sequin a visit to Italian physicians.

Caso-Mecherini, the principal banking-house at Pisa, will
supply Foreigners with money; but it is more advantageous to
procure it at Leghorn.

The price of common shoes is eight pauls the pair, whether
for men or women.

The price for making a man’s suit of clothes about twenty
pauls; all charges inclusive.

The price for making a Lady's dress nine or ten pauls, beside
body-linina.

Sig. Antonio Peverata, Bookseller, No. 694, Lung’ Arno, is
an honest man, and very useful to Foreigners.

Pisa may be called a cheap place for permanent residence;
as may Pistoja, Florence, and Siena; because, supposing the
exchange in favour of England (which it commonly is through-
out Tuscany) a moderate sized family might, in any of the
above-named cities, live handsomely for six hundred pounds
sterling per annum: and even large families who visit Italy
either for the purpose of educating their children, or of travel-
ling from place to place in search of amusement, will not, if
they know how to avoid imposition, ﬁnd their disbursements
exceed one thousand pounds sterling per annum. For the pur-
pose of education better masters may usually be procured at
Florence than in any other Italian city.

 

CHAP. xv. ITALY—PISA. 97

Arrival and Departure ofLetter-Conriers.

Sunday morning arrive letters from Florence, and all the Tus-
can State, Mantua, Belgium, Holland, Great Britain, Ger-
many, Trieste, Lombardy, the Roman State, Venice, Ferrara,
Ancona, Bologna, Parma, Piacenza, Reggio, and Modena.
At night from Sicily, Naples, Rome, and Siena. On Sunday,
Iihewise, arrives the Procaccino of Lucca. During summer,
arrives at noon a Sttﬁtta from Florence, with the letters of
that city; but in winter, these letters do not arrive till the
Monday morning. This Strgﬂétta brings letters from Man-
tua, Belgium, Holland, Great Britain, Piedmont, and Lom-
bardy, for the Leghorn merchants.

ﬁIonday arrives the Ordinario of Genoa, with letters from Turin,
Lunigiana, Massa, Pontremoli, Sarzana, Pietra-santa, Spain,
Portugal, and Lombardy. In the evening arrives the Frame-
cino of Lucca; and at night a Staﬁetta from Leghorn.

Wednesday morning early arrives a Stafk’tta from Florence, with
the letters of that city, Sicily, Naples, Rome, Siena, Mantua,
Belgium, Holland, Great Britain, Germany, Bologna, Reg-
gio, Modena, Parma, Piacenza, Prato, Pistoja, Lombardy,
and Switzerland. At noon the Ordinario of Genoa comes
from Florence with letters. A Stafetta likewise comes from
Leghorn. At noon arrive the Procaccini of Lucca and Barga.
At night arrives a Staﬁetta from Leghorn.

Thursday morning arrives a StaﬁIetta from Florence, with letters
of that city, Venice, Ferrara, Bologna, Mantua, Belgium,
Holland, Great Britain, Germany, Trieste, and Lombardy,
for the Leghorn merchants.

Friday arrives the Ordinario of France, who sometimes brings
letters from Great Britain, Spain, Portugal, and Lombardy.
In the evening arrives the Procaccino of Lucca; and at night
a Staﬁetta from Leghorn, with letters from that city, and
sometimes from France, Spain, Portugal, and Genoa.

Saturday arrives the Ordinario of France from Rome, and re-
turns immediately with letters for Rome and Naples.

Alona’ay goes the Ordinario of Genoa to Rome: a Staffetta to
Leghorn, with letters to Genoa, and just before midnight, a
Staﬁietta with letters for Florence, Tuscany in general, Rome,

App] 11

 

98 APPENDIX. CHAP. xv.

Naples, Malta, Sicily, Mantua, Bologna, Parma, Piacenza,
Modena, Reggio, Turin, Milan, Pavia, Brescia, Cremona,
Verona, Switzerland, Lombardy, Belgium, Holland, Great
Britain, Germany, and the northern countries in general,
Ferrara, Ancona, and the Venetian State.

Wednesday morning, early, goes a Stqzﬂtta to Leghorn; and at
noon another. In the evening go letters for Genoa, Spain,
Portugal, Turin, Nice, Massa, &c. and Lombardy. At eleven
at night goes the Ptocaccino of Pisa, with letters for Florence,
Prato, Pistoja, &c. A Procaecino likewise goes to Lucca.

Thursday morning early go a Stqﬂetta to Leghorn and the Pro-
caccini of Lucca and Barga.

Friday, a little before midnight, goes a Stqﬁétta to Florence, with
letters for Tuscany in general, Venice, Bologna, Ferrara,
Ancona, Sinigaglia, La Marca, Reggio, Modena, Parma,
Piacenza, Perugia, and the Roman State in general, Naples,
Sicily, Piedmont, Genoa, Spain, Portugal, Mantua, Switzer-
land, Milan, Pavia, Lombardy, &c. Germany, Belgium, Hol-
land, Great Britain, Trieste, &c. At night goes the Procac-
cino of Lucca.

Sunday morning goes the Ordinario of France.

It is advisable to send letters to the post-ofﬁce, on general -

post-nights, by ten o’clock.

On Monday, the letters are franked to every place, except
Florence and Leghorn; on Wednesday, to every place, except
the Tuscan towns on the road to Genoa; on Friday, to every
plaée except Florence and Leghorn; on Saturday, to every
place except Leghorn. The price for franking a single letter
to England is six crazie; the price for franking a single letter to
Naples, seven quattrini.

The price of one place in the Diligence from Pisa to Florence
is one sequin.

Persons going from Pisa to Florence had better not have
their baggage plumbed; it being necessary either to undergo an
examination, or present the custom-house ofﬁcers in the latter
city with ﬁve or ten pauls, according to the quantity and qua-
lity of the luggage.

 

CHAP. Iv. ITALY—FLORENCE—LODGING-HOUSES, &c. 99

FLORENCE.

The best Hotels, and some of the best private Lodging-houses
in Italy are to be found at Florence; and the price of good
apartments, compared with the prices at Rome and Naples, is
not exorbitant.

Lodging-Houses. Winter price.

Palazzo S. Clemente, Via S. Bastiano, two suites of handsome
apartments, each thirty sequins a month ; a good garden; and the
warmest situation in Florence—Palazzo-Stozzi, Via della Scala,
a fine house, and beautiful garden; sixty sequins a month—
Palazzo—Corsi, Via-Ghibellina, two suites of apartments, each
thirty sequins for one month Only; but less if taken for a
longer term—Palazzo-Quaratesi, Via d’ogni Santi, one set of
apartments, forty-ﬁve sequins a month; another set, twenty-
eight ditto—Casa-Pucci, opposite the Teatro-Goldoni, is a good
lodging—The Palazzo-Acciaioli, Lung’Arno, contains several
apartments—Casa-Riccasoli, Lung’Arno, is a pretty house for a
small family: and in the Piazza di S. Maria Novella, and several
other parts of the city, small apartments may be easily met
with.

Plate and linen are generally found in the lodgings at Flo-
rence; but, if not found, the hire of linen for a large family is
about ﬁve sequins a month. Noble apartments unfurnished
may be hired by the year for, comparatively speaking, nothing.

As the Tuscans take no pains to advertise their vacant apart-
ments, and it is consequently difﬁcult to discover them, Tra-
vellers would do well to apply for information at the shops of
Molini, Meggit, and Townly.

Board and lodging for aLady, or Gentleman, in an Italian
family, tea and foreign wine not inclusive, is about ﬁfteen
sequins a month.

At the H6561 des Armes d’Angleterre, kept by Gasperini, a
Family, consisting of four masters and four servants, may have
a good apartment, breakfast, excellent dinners, tea, wax-lights,
and night-lamps, for eighty francesconi a week": and the

" Anti-attrition grease may be purchased of Gasperini for ﬁve pauls a pct.
11 2

100 APPENDIX. CHAP. Iv.

master of the Locanda di S. Luigi (by name Luigi Falugi) will
supply four Masters and feur Servants with breakfast, dinner,
a good dessert, and two bottles of table-wine, together with milk
and butter for tea, at ﬁve scudi a day; charging three extra—
pauls for every accidental visitor, and six for every invited
guest.

The price, per head, for breakfast at aCoﬁ'ee-house is about one
paul', and the price, per head, for dinner, at the house of a
Restaurateur, or at a table d’Hdte, is from three to ﬁve pauls,
table-wine inclusive.

The price, per month, for a good carriage and horses, coach-
man’s wages inclusive, is from twenty to twenty-ﬁve sequins,
according to the expense of provender.

Inn-keepers usually charge for their carriages, by the day,
about twenty pauls.

Provisions, in general, are good; though fresh ﬁsh can only
be procured on Fridays and Saturdays. Figs, peaches, water-
melons, and grapes are, in their respective seasons, excellent.
Good cows’ milk and good butter are not to be obtained without
diﬂiculty; asses’ milk is excellent; and the wine made in the
neighbourhood of Florence is palatable and wholesome: the
best sorts, called Vino Santa, Leatico, and Artimz'no, come from
the vicinity of Fiesole; where the oil, likewise, is particularly
good. Ice (or more properly speaking frozen snow) is two
pauls and a half per every hundred pounds.

The best medicines are sold at the Farmacia Formini, in the
Piazza del Granduca; and by the Grand Duke’s Apothecary.

The" usual price of butchers’ meat is from ﬁve to six crazie
the pound—the usual price of the best bread about four crazie
the pound—a turkey costs from ﬁve to ten pauls, according to
its size; a fowl from one livre to three pauls—partridges from
four to six pauls the brace—a beccaﬁco from three to ﬁve crazie
——an ortolan from six crazie to a paul—and the best table-wine
from a livre to two pauls per ﬂask.

Molini, Bookseller, Via-Archibusieri, sells English books,
paper, pens, pencils, &c. Meggit, in the Piazza del Duomo, sells
good Foreign wine, porter, tea, English medicines, &c. His

' Every cup of coffee costs two crazie; every cup of chocolate something
more. ~

 

CHJV. ITALY—FLORENCE—PRICES OF VARIOUS ARTICLES. 101

black tea is twelve pauls a pound; his green tea sixteen pauls.
Townley, in Via—Larga, likewise sells English goods. The best
Grocer is Caroli, Via della Croce: his Levant—coffee is from
twenty-two crazie to three pauls the pound; his West-India
coﬁ'ee two pauls the pound. The best Silk-mercer is Borgogni,
near the Piazza del Granduca. Florence silks are of various qua-
lities; one sort being from nine to ten pauls the braccio; another
from six to seven; and the slightest from three to ﬁve pauls,
according to the weight. The best linen -’drapers shops are
kept by Jews, near the Mercato nuovo. Shoes and boots are,
generally speaking, better made at Florence than in any other
part of Italy. the usual price charged for the former lS eight
pauls the pail; and for the latter from thirty to forty pauls.
Florentine Taylors charge for making a man’s suit of clothes
from twenty to twenty-ﬁve pauls. Ladies Dress-makers usually
charge twelve pauls for making a trimmed dress, and nine for
making a plain one. Two of the best dress-makers are, Maria
Ripari, in the Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, and Anna Rossi,
Via del Amorina, Quartiere di S. Lorenzo, N0. 4544. The best
lVIilliners are Madame Noblez, Via dell’ Arme, dirimpetto S.
Pancrazio, No. 4071; and Bertini Roucée, Strada Vacchereccia.
There are several good Coachmakers at Florence; and one of
the best is Magnone, Via-Valfonda, Fortezza da Basso, N0. 4471.
Pestellini, Money-changer, near the Piazza del Duomo, will
supply Travellers who are going to Rome with dollars and R0.
man scudi at a lower price than they are current for in the
ecclesiastical State. Fire-wood at Florence is from thirty-ﬁve
to thirty-eight pauls the catastre; and charcoal from three to
four pauls a sack.

Fees to medical Men are much the same as at Pisa: and the
sum given to a Notary-public, for his seal and attestation, is ten
pauls.

A box at the Pergola may generally be obtained for ﬁfteen,
or, at most, twenty pauls; but every British Traveller pays three
pauls for admission, beside the expense of the box. At the
Cocomero, and the Teatro-nuovo, boxes usually cost from eight
to twelve pauls; and every British Traveller pays, for admis-
sion at these theatres, two pauls over and above the price of a
box.

The best Music-Masters charge ten pauls a lesson; other

10‘2 APPENDIX. CHAP. 1v.

. Masters do not charge more than ﬁve. Sig. Morani teaches
Italian remarkably well.

The most distinguished Sculptors are Ricci, Bartolini, and the
Brothers Pisani*.

Gulﬂocher, in Borgo-Ogni Santi, No. 3951 sells alabaster.

Ermini is a good Painter; and may usually be found at the
Royal Academy.

Bankers at Florence give the same exchange, and nearly the
same agio, as at Leghorn. Messrs. Donat Orsi, and Co., in
the Piazza del Granduca, are honourable in their dealings, and
very obliging to Foreigners; as is Sig. Sebastiano Kleiber, in
Via-Larga.

The best Padrone di vetture at Florence 1s Balzani, who may
always be heard of at the Aquila Nera: his horses and mules are
good; and his drivers remarkably civil 1x

' Travellers who purchase alabaster, for the purpose of having it sent to Great
Britain by sea, should deal with the Brothers Pisani; as their punctuality may be
relied on.

1- Washerwomen in Tuscany commonly charge for washing and ironing as
follows.

Sheets, per pair . . . crazie 12
Pillow-cases, each . . . . l
Table-cloth, if large . . . 6
Napkin . . . l
Towel . . . . . l
Shirt . . . . . 4
Shift 4
Drawers . . . . . 4
Pantaloons . . . . . 8
Corset . . . . 4
Pocket- handkerchief. . . . l
Neck-cloth . . . l
Kitchen-apron . . . 2
Pockets, per pair . . . 2
Sleeping waistcoat . . . . 3
Night-cap, if not trimmed . . . 2
Silk-stockings, per pair 4
Cotton-stockings, per pair . . . 2
Plain white dresses, each . . . 12
Petticoats, each . . . 6

Persons who wish to be economical 1n Italy should have their linen washed out
of the house, and ironed at home.
Francesca Lambardi, in the Piazza- San Spirito, No. 2079, is a good laundress.

 

CH AP. IV. ITALY—JFLORENCE. 103
I
T

Arrival and departure of Letter- Couriers.

Monday, at nine in the morning, arrive letters from Arezzo and
Cortona. ,

Tuesday, about the same time, arrive letters from France, Pied~
mont, Spain, Genoa, Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, and Stradale;
Portof‘errajo, Prato, Pistoja, and Pescia; Perugia, Cortona,
and Arezzo; Naples, Rome, Siena, and Stradale: and Tues-
day, about noon, arrive letters from upper Italy, Germany,
Holland, Switzerland, and Great Britain.

Thursday, about nine in the morning, arrive letters from Naples,

' Rome, Perugia, Cortona, Arezzo and Stradale, Leghorn, Pisa,
and Lucca; Portoferrajo, Siena, Pistoja, and Prato; and
about noon from Bologna, Ferrara, and La Marca.

Friday, in the afternoon, from France, Spain, Piedmont, Genoa,
and Lunigiana.

Saturday, at nine in the morning, from Portoferrajo, Leghorn,
Pisa, Lucca, and Stradale; Pescia, Pistoja, and Prato; Cor-
tona and Arezzo. About ten in the morning arrive letters
from Naples, Rome, Siena, and Stradale; and about noon
from upper Italy, Germany, Holland, Switzerland, Great-
Britain, &c.

Tuesday, soon after twelve o'clock, go letters for upper Italy, Ger-
many, Switzerland, Holland, and Great Britain; and, four
hours later, for Siena, Rome, Naples, and Stradale; Pisa,
Lucca, Leghorn, and Portoferrajo; Genoa, Piedmont, France,
Spain, Prato, Pistoja, and Pescia; Arezzo and Cortnna.

Thursday afternoon go letters for Bologna, Ferrara, and La
NIarca; Pisa, Lucca, Leghorn, Portoferrajo, Siena, Prato,
Pistoja, Arezzo, Cortona, Perugia, Rome, and Naples.

Saturday, soon after twelve, go letters for France, Spain, Pied-
mont, Genoa, Upper-Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Holland,
and Great Britain; and, four hours later, for Siena, Rome,
and Naples; Pisa, Leghorn, Portoferrajo, Lucca, Prato,
Pistoja, Pescia, Arezzo, Cortona, and Perugia. _
Letters for every country, Tuscany excepted, must be

franked.

Letters which go by the Morning-Courier should be put into
the post-ofﬁce before noon; and letters which go by the Even-
ing-Courier before six in the afternoon.

 

104 APPENDIX. CHAP. 1v.

Country-Houses near Florence.

Villa-Mattei, near the Porta S. Gallo, a large house.

Villa del Cav. Gianﬁgliazzi, near the Porta S. Gallo, a good
house; but, in point of situation, hot, and, at some seasons,
damp.

Villa—Vitelli, at Fiesole, healthy and cool.

Villa-Baroni, at Fiesole, ditto, but in too elevated a situation
for weak lungs.

Palazzo-Bruciarto, near the Porta S. Gallo, an excellent
house, in rather too warm a situation for summer.

Villa-Careggi di Medici, a most excellent house, in a cool,
dry, and healthy situation.

Villa del Nero, at Majano, a most excellent house, equally
well situated.

There are, in the neighbourhood of Fiesole, several other
Villas, which might be hired from Midsummer till the com-
mencement of the vintage: as the Tuscans seldom occupy their
country-houses till the end of September; when the vintage
begins. From twenty to thirty sequins a month, plate and
linen inclusive, is the highest price demanded for the best
Tuscan Villas.

 

CHAPTER V.

ROME, NAPLES, AND ITS ENVIRONS.

Money of Rome—Banhers’ aceounts—Pomzd—weight—ﬂIeasures
—H0tels and other Lodging-houses—Best water—Best air——
Prices of the hest Lodgings—Prices charged [13/ Traiteurs—
Price of dinner per head at the houses questaurateurs—(f
breahfast at a CQﬁZ’e-house—wy Job-carriages and horses—
Expense of [seeping your own carriage—Hacksey-coaches—
IVages of a V alet-de-place—Fire-wood—Butchers’ meat, will!
ﬁnd, poacltry,ﬁsh, and other eatahles— Wax and tallozc candles——

 

CHAP. v. ITALY. 105

Charcoal—-Best markets ﬁr. fruit and vegetables— Wines of the
country—Foreign wines—Best Confectioner—Oil—Honey—
T ea—Grocers—Rum—Best W ax- candles—M edicin es— W ool-
len cloth—Furs—Roman pearls—Ladies’ shoes—Silk Mercer—
Milliner—Language Master—Music Masters—Italian Mis-
tress—Dancing Masters—Fahhrica di Perle—Sulphurs—Ro-
man Mosaic-work—Bronze lamps, and silver plate—Stationer
—Prints and Drawings—English writing paper, and English
hooks—Circulating Library— Calcogrqﬁa Camerale—Fees to
medical Men—Theatres—price of boxes—English Reading-
room — Unfurnished apartments—Procuccio from Rome to
Naples —— Best Roman Vetturino — Post- Oﬁce — Neapolitan
Territories — Passports —Fees to Custom-house Oﬁcers ——
Money of Naples—Exchange—Common Neapolitan measure,
pound-weight, and rotolo—Hotels and other Lodging-houses
at N aples—Job-carriages—Expense of keeping your own car-
ridge—of keeping a saddle-horse—Hackney carriages—Wages
of a Valet-de—place—of a Cook—Mode in which persons who
keep their own cook should order dinner—Price of unfurnished
apartments—Price usually paid hy Families who have their
dinner from a Traiteur—Price per head for dinner at a Re-
staurateur’s—ofhreakﬁtst at a Coﬂee-hoztse—of Butchers’ meat,
ﬁsh, poultry, and cheese, bread, oil, butter, Sorrento hams, tea,
coﬁee, sugar, ice, and wines made in the Neapolitan territories
—Firewood, charcoal, wax and tallow candles—English Ware-
houses—Naples silks, gauzes, ribands, &c.——Sorrento silk-
stockings—Musical instrument strings—Circulating Lihrary—
Bookseller and Stationer—English Medical Men—Music Mas-
ter—Dancing Master—Price ofhoxes at the Theatres—Arrival
and departure of Letter-Couriers and Procacei—Expense of
franking letters, aka—Plain of Sorrento—Price of Lodging-
houses—Provisions—Oil, milk, wine of Sorrento and Capri——
Charcoal and ﬁre-wood—-Clotted cream—Quails—Articles not
found at Sorrento—Boats which go daily from Sorrento to Naples
and return the some evening—Passage-money—Meta-hoats—
Best method of conveying a large Family from Naples to Sor-
rento—Post—(ﬁce—Sorrento recommended as a cheap place for
permanent residence.

is;

106 APPENDIX. CHAP, v.

ROME.
Jlfoneg of Rome.

Doppia - - worth thirty-two paoli and one bqjocclzo.

Scudo - - - - ten paoli.

Mezzo-Scua’o - - ﬁve paoli.

Piece of three paoli.

Piece of two paoli.

Piece of one paolo.

Mezzo-Paolo.

Bajoccho, worth the tenth part of a paolo.

The Louis-d’or is current at Rome for forty—four pauls—the

Napoleon for thirty-seven pauls—and the Spanish dollar for
ten pauls.

Bankers accounts are kept in pauls.
The Roman pound—weight is twelve ounces; the Roman

canna is equal to two yards and half a quarter English measure;
and the Roman mercantile palmo is between nine and ten

English inches.

Hotels and other Lodging-houses.

I have already mentioned the names of the principal Hotels at
Rome. The Masters of these Hotels, however, will seldom
receive Travellers for less than a week: but at the Gran Vas-
cello, in Via-Condotti, accommodations may be obtained by the
night. The price of large apartments at the principal Hotels is
seldom less than a Louis-d’or per day. The charges for break-
fast, dinner, and servants’ board, are much the same as at
Florence.

Almost every house in the Piazza di Spagna contains apart-
ments which are let to Foreigners; and the best of these apart-
ments are in the Casa-Rinaldini. Innis’s lodging-house, called

' The Royal Hotel; Pio’s; Margariti’s, &c. in Via—San Bastia-
nello, contain good apartments. V ia-Babuino, Via della Croce,
Via-Condotti, Via-Frattina, and Via de’ due Macelli, contain
several lodgings; as do Via-Vittoria, and Via-Ponteﬁci. The
Palazzo-Luciano, Via-Condotti, and the Palazzo-Gavotti, in the
Corso, contain good apartments; as does the Piazza-Colonna.

 

CHAP. v. ITALY—ROME—LODGING-HOUSES, &c. 107

The Palazzo-Fiano, on the Corso, contains good apartments;
as does the Palazzo-Cardelli, near Via di Itipetta; in which
street, likewise, several lodgings may be met with. The Piazza
di Santi Apostoli contains good apartments. The Palazzo-
Ceva, and the Palazzo-Caligula, near the Forum of Trajan,
contain good apartments; as does the Palazzo—Maggi, near the
Capitol. No. 152, Via—Rasella, is a large well situated house;
as is Casa-Giorgio, in the Lavatore del Papa. The Palazetto-
Albani, and the Villa-Miollis, are good houses.

The best water at Rome is that of the F ontana di Trevi, and
the Piazza di Spagna: the best air, that of the centre of the
Corso, the Piazza di Spagna, the Trinita de’ Monti, the environs
of the Fontana di Trevi, and the Foro-Trajano, and its environs.
The price lately given for the best apartments at Rome, plate
and linen inclusive, has been from thirty to forty Louis-d’ors a
month. Large and well-situated lodgings may, however,\be
procured for about eighty scudi a month; and small apartments
for half that sum *. The best T raiteurs usually charge English
Families ten pauls a head for dinner and dessert, bread and
wine not inclusive; and this dinner usually furnishes the ser-
vants with more than they can eat: but (as I have already men-
tioned), persons who get their dinner from a Traiteur, should
not order it per head, but per dish 1-. The T miteur near the
Palazzo—Sciarra, on the Corso, will supply one person with din-u
ner for five pauls : and at the houses of Restaurateurs in general
a gentleman may be found in dinner, bread, and table-wine,
for ﬁve pauls +. Breakfast at a Coffee-house usually costs
about one paul ; and the charge for every cup of coffee is two
bajocchi.

The price, per month, for a good carriage and horses, coach-

. Persons who are not anxious to live in that part of Rome which the English
usually prefer, would do well to seek apartments in the Strada- Giulia; where the
rent oftwo or three good rooms is not more than from ten to twelve scudi a month.

t Four or ﬁve dishes, sufﬁciently large to supply four Masters and four Servants
with a plentiful dinner, bread and dessert not inclusive, usually cost about twenty
pauls.

1 At the Palazzo-Fiano, in the Corso, there is a Restaurateur, who serves at a
ﬁxed price per portion, as is done at Paris; his charge for a plate of good soup being
baiocchi 2§—a plate of bouillie, with vegetables, baiocchi 7%_a plate of roasted

meat, ditto—a plate of common fruit 2 or 3 baiocchi, and a foglietta of good table-
wine from 8 to 10 baiocchi.

 

108 APPENDIX. ' CHAP. v.

man’s wages inclusive, is from sixty to seventy scudi, according
to the expense of provender. The price, per day, from twenty-
four to twenty-ﬁve pauls—and for four hours, either morning or
evening, twelve pauls. A good carriage and horses may fre-
quently be purchased for about one hundred pounds sterling:
and the expense of keeping them, coachman’s, and footman’s
wages, with grease for wheels inclusive, is about twenty-six
scudi per month. A coachman’s wages is eight scudi per month;
he ﬁnding grease and oil; and a footman’s wages six scudi per
month. They expect liveries once a year.

Hackney carriages may usually be hired for four pauls an
hour, in the Piazza di Monte Citorio.

The wages of a Valet-de-Place, is from four to ﬁve pauls a
day, he ﬁnding himself in every thinv.

Fire-wood is sold by the cart-load; which, during winter,
usually costs about twenty-eight pauls, without carriage and
porterage; and this amounts to from ﬁve to eight pauls more,
according to where the wood is taken. The best wood may
generally be obtained at the Ripetta.

Rome is better supplied with eatables than any other city
in Italy. The best beef is from seven to eight baiocchi a pound
—-gravy-beef, from ﬁve to six baiocchi—mutton, from six to
eight baiocchi—lamb, six baiocchi—veal, from ten to twenty
baiocchi—kid, ten baiocchi—excellent pork, from six to six
and a half baiocchi—excellent wild-boar, from ﬁve to six
baiocchi—wood-cocks, from twenty to twenty-ﬁve baiocchi
each—a wild goose from four to ﬁve pauls—wild ducks ditto,
per brace—widgeons each, about ﬁfteen baiocchi; and teale,
about one paul—partridges, from twenty-ﬁve baiocchi to three
pauls each—small chickens, two pauls each—large fowls, three
pauls each—hares, from three to four pauls each—rabbits,
twenty-ﬁve baiocchi each—capons, forty-ﬁve baiocchi each—
turkies, ten baiocchi a pound, and sometimes less *—-tame ducks,
each two pauls—pigeons, ditto—quails, each four baiocchi—-
beccaﬁchi, from three to four baiocchi each—ortolans, twelve
baiocchi each. Soles, turbots, carp, and other prime ﬁshes, are
seldom sold for less than from ﬁfteen baiocchi to two pauls the
pound; though common ﬁsh rarely costs more than ten baioc-

"‘ Hen-turkies may frequently be purchased for six or seven pauls.

 

crmr. v. ITALY—ROME—PRICES or VARIOUS ARTICLES. 109

chi. Dried salmon is twelve baiocchi a pound—salted cod,
three baiocchi—shrimps, ﬁfteen baiocchi. Good butter two
pauls a pound, generally speaking; though it may sometimes be
procured for fourteen or ﬁfteen baiocchi. Cows’ milk, per fo-
glietta, five baiocchi—goats’ milk, three baiocchi. Parmesan
cheese, twenty-two baiocchi the pound—Dutch cheese, seven-
teen baiocchi—Brinzi, eighteen baiocchi. Household-bread,
two baiocchi and a half—a panetto, or roll, always one baioc-
cho ; at present, three of these weigh eleven ounces. Spanish ‘
rolls, two baiocchi and a half each. Grapes, apples, pears,
peaches, and apricots, from two to four baiocchi the pound.
Sweet oranges, three, or four, for one baiocchi—Seville oranges,
six or seven for ditto——-lemons, each from one to two baiocchi—
best chesnuts, twelve for one baioccho—potatoes, one baioccho
the pound—beans, one baioccho and a half the pound. Eggs,
per dozen, from ten to twenty baiocchi. Wax candles, from
forty-four to forty-ﬁve baiocchi the pound—Spoleto-tallow
candles, twelve baiocchi the pound—Roman ditto, ten baioc-
chi. Charcoal, per sack, containing about 1301b. sixty baioc-
chi. The best markets for fruit and vegetables are those of the
Piazza—Navona and the Pantheon: the melons of Perugia are
remarkably good, as is the Roman brocoli.

The wine of Orvietto usually sold at ﬁfteen or sixteen baioc-
chi the small ﬂask, is good, but seldom genuine: indeed, the
Romans are accused of adulterating their white wines with a
poisonous metallic substance. The wines of Albano and Gen-
sano, however, may be purchased at the Scotch College for two
scudi and a half, or, at most, three scudi the barrel; and are
wholesome, because genuine. A barrel contains fourteen large
ﬂasks, and every large ﬂask ﬁve fogliette. The foglietta is
nearly an English pint. Spanish table-wine, which, if genuine,
is good and wholesome, may be purchased in the magazines at
Ripa-Grande, and usually costs from sixteen to eighteen scudi
the barrel. Spanish white wines may likewise be purchased of
Don Rafaele Anglada, N0. 26, at Ripa-Grande; as may a re-
markably good sweet wine of Portugal, called Setubal. Sici-
lian and French wines are sold at No.63, Piazza di Spagna-
Spillmann, N0. 81, Via della Croce, sells better foreign wines
and spirits than any other person; but his prices are high: he

 

110 ~ APPENDIX. CHAP. v.

likewise is the best Confectioner at Rome *. Oil varies in price,
from eight to twenty-four baiocchi the foglietta; but good
salad-oil is not easily obtained. Roman honey is excellent; and
seldom costs more than seven or eight baiocchi the pound. Tea
may be purchased of all the principal Grocers. The Brothers
Cogorni, Grocers, No. 30, Piazza-Rondonini, sell black tea at
twelve pauls the pound; green tea, from sixteen to eighteen
pauls: coffee, unburnt, from twenty-eight to thirty-ﬁve baioc-
chi; coffee, .burnt, at four pauls; loaf-sugar, at three pauls;
powder sugar from twelve to eighteen baiocchi; and rum,
which is remarkably good, at six pauls the bottle, or ﬁve and a
half, provided the empty bottles be returned: they likewise sell
good Bordeaux, Cyprus, and genuine Malaga. Faiella, in the
Piazza di Spagna, at the corner of Via-Condotti, sells good
tea, coffee, chocolate, cocoa, sugar, &c.: and good brandy may
be purchased at No. 111, Piazza de Monte Citorio, for four
pauls and a half the bottle. The best wax-candles are to be
purchased of the Grocer in the Piazza di Trevi, who likewise
sells good tea. The best medicines are to be purchased at the
Farmacia Marini Borioni, Via del Babuino, No. 98; and this
shop contains excellent castor-oil, Epsom-salts, pearl-barley,
oatmeal, sago, arrow-root, and tolerably good bark.

Roman woollen cloth, called Casterino, is tolerably good, and

costs about four scudi the canna. Furs also are good, and not ‘

dear; and Roman pearls are worth purchasing. Ready-made
shoes for Ladies, cost from four to eight pauls the pair: and
Ladies may have silk shoes, made on purpose for them, at nine
pauls the pair; and strong walking-shoes at one scudo the pair.
The best Silk-Mercers’ shops are L’Unigue, on the Corso, front-
ing the Via-Condotti; and Ciampi’s, No. 167, on the Corso.
The best Millincr (a French woman), lives in the Via de’ due
Macelli.

The best Language Master at Rome, is Sig. Giuntotardi; the
best Music Masters are Sig. Moroni, Sig. Sirletti, Sig. Conﬁdate,
and Sig. Garroni; the last of whom resides in the Via di Gesh,
No. 80. He is an excellent instructor for children, and does

" Spillmann’s ices are ﬁfteen baiocchi a cake : other Confectioners sell the same
quantity for ten baiocchi ; but the quality is very inferior.

 

a?

CHAP. v. ITALY—ROME—BEST MASTERS, SHOPS, &e. 111 P

not ask more than ﬁve pauls alesson ; other Music Masters ask
double that sum. Sig. Giuntotardi’s price is ﬁve pauls an hour;
and the Signora Clementina Giuoti (an excellent Italian Mistress
for children), is satisﬁed with half that sum: she lives in the
Piazza Campitelli, No. 3. Dancing Blasters charge from ﬁve
to seven pauls a lesson; and Drawing Masters about ﬁve pauls
an hour *. .

The best Fabbrica di Perle, is in the Strada-Giulia, Via Pa-
della, No. 19. Sulphurs are sold at No. 31, Via di Capo-le-
Case, for three scudi per hundred; they are likewise sold at
No. 53, Corso; and in other places. Small and beautiful spe-
cimens of Roman Mosaic-work, may be found in the Piazza di
Spagna, the Via-Condotti, &c. &c. One of the best shops for
bronze lamps and silver plate, is that of Sig. Belli, in Via-Valle,
N o. 63, near the Teatro della Valle. One of the best Stationers’
shops is in the Corso, nearly fronting the Post-Ofﬁce; and good
writing-paper, called carta del Leoncz'no, may be procured at
this shop. Bouchard, Bookseller, No.69, in the Piazzadi Spagna,
(a very fair-dealing man), sells coloured drawings, prints, and
English books. Monaldini, Bookseller, in the Piazza di Spagna,
sells English writing-paper, and English books; and Piale, No.
428, on the Corso, has a circulating Library, which contains
several English books. The subscription to this Library is ﬁve
pauls a month. Large assortments of prints and drawings are
to be met with in the Corso, the‘Piazza di Spagna, and its en-
virons. Vasi, in the Via-Babuino, has a numerous collection of
prints: and at the Calcogrqﬁ‘a Camerale, where the prices are,
speciﬁed in the catalogue, from ten to ﬁfteen per cent. is de-
ducted, if a considerable quantity-of prints be purchased.

The usual fee given by the Romans to their medical men, is
three pauls a visit; but foreigners are expected to give from one
to two scudi.

Rome, as I have already mentioned, contains six Theatres,
namely, the T eatro-Alz'bertz', which is open for masked balls
during Carnival; the Argentina, where operas are performed
between Christmas and Lent; the T eatro- Valle, where operas
and plays are performed at the same season; the Teatro della

* Sig. Faustino Meucci, who resides at No. 176, in the Via-Ripetta, is an excel-
lent Drawing Master for Children ; and very reasonable in his charges.

11% APPENDIX. CHAP. v

Pace ,- the Apollo; and the Pallacorda. The price of a good
box at the Teatro-Aliberti, during Carnivalnis from ﬁfteen to
twenty pauls; beside which, every person pays three pauls for
admission. At the other Theatres, the price of boxes varies ac-
cording to the merit of the performers; but, nothing is paid for
admission, except by those persons who go into the pdrterre.

At the Royal Hotel, Via S. Bastiano, there is an English
Reading-room.

Persons who intend to make a long stay, and to live econo-
mically in this city, should endeavour to hire an unfurnished
apartment, and furnish it themselves; furniture being very
cheap; and the rent of unfurnished apartments very low.

A Procaccio goes every week from Rome to Naples, and con-
veys luggage *.

The best Roman Padrone di V etture is Balzani, who may always
be found, or heard of, at the Locanda del Orso; and is the
brother and partner of Balzani, the Padrone (12' V etture, at
Florence f.

' Persons who wish to convey luggage by water from Rome to Naples, should
apply to the Masters of the vessels at Ripa—Grande: but as luggage going either
by the Procaccio, or by water, must be taken to the Custom-house at Naples, it is
not advisable to send books, nor any thing contraband, by these conveyances.

f Washerwomen at Rome commonly charge for washing and ironing as follows:

Sheets, per pair . . . hajocchi 5
Pillow-cases, each . . . . l
Table-cloth . . . . . 3
Napkins, per dozen . . . . 8
Towels, per dozen . . . . 8
Shirt . . . . 4
Shift . . . . 3
Drawers . . . . 3
Corset . . . . . 4
Pocket-handkerchiefs, per dozen . . 8
Kitchen aprons, per dozen . . 8
Neck-cloth . . . . . 1
Pockets, per pair . . A . . 2
Sleeping waistcoat . . . . 3
Habit-shirt . . . . 2
Night-cap . . . . . 1
Plain white dresses, each . . . 10
Petticoats, each . . - . . 3

2

Cotton stockings, per pair .

 

‘0

CHAP. V. ITALY—NEAPOLITAN TERRITORIES. 113

Post- Oﬁce.

Letters for Great Britain must be franked before noon on
Mondays and Thursdays; and before seven in the evening on
Saturdays. Fifteen bajocchi, if the paper be not thick, is the
price paid for franking every single letter; and the same sum is
paid on receiving every single letter from Great Britain.

Letters for Naples go on Tuesdays and Fridays: letters for
Florence, on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays; aw]. two ba-
jocchi and a half are paid for franking a single letter to either of
the above-named cities.

The Post-oﬁice is open from ten till twelve in the morning,
and from three till seven in the evening. V

Letters from Great Britain may be expected on Mondays and
Thursdays.

NEAPOLITAN TERRITORIES.

In order to enter the Kingdom of Naples, it is necessary to
procure a pas5port either from the Neapolitan Government, or
one of its Ambassadors.

Travellers, on quitting Rome for Naples, derive no advantage
from having their luggage plumbed; as, at Terracina, the last
town in the Papal territories, and also at the frontier, the Cus-
tom-house ofﬁcers have a right to examine trunks, &c.; but a
fee of from ﬁve to ten pauls, according to the quantity of lug-
gage, always prevents the exercise of this right. At Fondi, the
ﬁrst town in the Neapolitan dominions, six carlini per carriage,
given at the Custom-house, will generally secure luggage from
examination.

Money of Naples.

Gold. Piece worth thirty ducatz', or ducats—ditto, worth
ﬁfteen ducats—ditto, worth four ducats—ditto, worth three
ducats—ditto, worth two ducats.

Silver. Scudo, worth grani, or grains 132—Pezzo-a’uro,
worth grains 123, or 124—Piastre, worth grains lilo—Piece,
worth grains 66—ditto, worth grains 60—ditto, worth grains
50—ditto, worth grains 40—ditto, worth grains 30—ditto, worth
grains 26—ditto, worth grains 24—ditt0, worth grains 20-

App.] 1

114 APPENDIX. CHAP. v.

ditto, worth grains 13—ditto, worth grains lQ—ditto, worth
grains 10—ditto, worth grains 5.

Copper. Piece worth four grains—ditto, worth 3 grains—
ditto, worth 2% grains—ditto, worth '2 grains—ditto, worth 1
grain—ditto, worth half a grain.

One ducato is worth ten carlini, and one carlino ten grani.

Accounts are kept in ducats and grains. The exchangeupon
London is ﬁxed every Monday and Thursday afternoon; and
Neapolit‘ Bankers give so many grains, according to the ex-
change, for every pound sterling.

The common Neapolitan measure, called a same, is equal to
about two yardstand a quarter English* ; the Neapolitan pound
to about eleven English ounces; and the rotolo to about thirty-
one English ounces.

Hotels and other Lodging-houses at Naples.

From two hundred to three hundred ducats a month have,
during the last few years, been demanded in winter and spring,
for the best ready-furnished apartments in this city: now, how-
ever, handsome lodgings large enough to accommodate a mo-
derate-sized Family, may be obtained for an hundred, or, at the
utmost, an hundred and ﬁfty ducats a month, in those parts of
Naples usually frequented by Foreigners, namely, the Chiaja,
the Chiatamone, and the Strada di S. Lucia: in other situa—
tions lodgings are much cheaper. I have already mentioned
the names of the best hotels: it may not, however, be super-
ﬂuous to add, that the situation of the Gran-Bretagna is bleak
during winter and spring; and that the back rooms in the
Crocele, and other hotels near the tufo-rock, are damp and
unwholesome. The price of apartments at the principal hotels
is, generally speaking, higher than in any other part of Italy.
Dinner usually costs ten carlini per head for masters; break-
fast, twenty-ﬁve grains; and servants’ board, per day, from four
to six carlini a head. J obmen, who supply strangers with car-
riages, usually charge three ducats per day; and not much
less by the month: but a good carriage and horses may fre-
quently bepurchased here for about one hundred pounds ster-
ling: and the expense of keeping them amounts to about ﬁfty

* One canna contains eight Neapolitan palmi; and one palmo is about 10%
English inches.

 

CHAP. v. ITALY—NAPLES—PRICES or VARIOUS ARTICLES. 115

ducats a month, including twelve ducats for the coachman’s
wages. 'Provender for a coach-horse costs about four carlini
per day—a stable and coach-house four ducats a month, and
shoeing each horse, one ducat a month. Provender for a saddle-
horse costs about three carlini per day. Hackney-carriages of all
descriptions are to be met with in every quarter ofNaples, at the
following prices. Carriage with four places, a course, four carlini;
and if taken by the hour, ﬁrst hour, ﬁve carlini; and every subse-
quent hour three carlini. Carriage with two places‘f'a course,
twenty-six grains; and if taken per hour, ﬁrst hour three carlini;
and every subsequent hour, twenty grains. The drivers of these
carriages cannot demand any thing more than the fare, though
they expect a triﬂing gratuity. The wages of a Valet-de-place, is
from ﬁve to six carlini a day, he ﬁnding himself in every thing:
and it is difﬁcult to meet with a good Cook, who ﬁnds his own
Assistant, under twelve ducats a month. Neapolitan Servants
expect neither board nor lodging. Persons who keep their own
cook should order dinner at so much per head, ﬁre-wood and
charcoal inclusive: and persons who mean to reside long at
Naples, and wish to live economically, should endeavour to pro-
cure an unfurnished apartment; and either purchase or hire
furniture themselves. Good apartments unfurnished may be ob-
tained for four, or at the utmost, ﬁve hundred ducats per annum.
Families who have their dinner from a T miteur, are seldom well-
served under ﬁve or six carlini a head, Servants inclusive : but
a well-cooked dish, sufﬁcient for two persons, may be procured,
at a Cook’s shop, for ﬁve carlini. Persons who dine at the houses
of Restaurateurs, are presented when they enter, with the carte
(2 manger; and the expense of dining at these taverns, bread and
table-wine inclusive, is, generally speaking, from three to six
carlini a head. One cup of coffee at a coffee-house is ﬁve
grains; One cup of chocolate, eight grains; and breakfast alto-
gether, butter inclusive, two carlini. Provisions at Naples are
good and plentiful. Beef costs from twenty-four to twenty-six
grains the rotolo—mutton twenty grains—veal fort-y grains—
pork twenty grains—and ﬁsh, from three to eight carlini. Na-
ples oysters are good; though perhaps not so well fattened as
in the days of Lucullus. A large turkey costs from twelve to
ﬁfteen carlini ; a fowl three or four carlini ; and a small chicken
from fifteen to twenty grains. Parmesan cheese is nine carlini
I ‘2

 

 

116 APPENDIX. CHAP. v.

the rotolo; and English cheese, ten carlini. Bread of the best
quality from six to eight grains the rotolo. Oil varies in price;
but the best costs usually from four to ﬁve carlini the rotolo.
Milk is scarce and dear. The only good butter comes from
Sorrento, and is six carlini the rotolo. The best veal, pork, and
hams, likewise come from Sorrento; and the last are four car—
lini the rotolo. Green tea is twenty carlini the English pound;
and black tea sixteen carlini—coffee from eleven to thirteen
carlini tlk rotolo—loaf-sugar eight carlini—and other sorts,
from six carlini to forty-ﬁve grains. Fruit is cheap and excel-
lent. (It is supposed that the Ancients iced their cherries, ﬁgs,
water-melons, and many other fruits; and the Modems would
do wisely by adopting the same plan.) Ice, or rather frozen
snow, is four grains the rotolo; iced water, two grains per quart;
ices, in glasses, are eight grains each; and ices in cakes, twelve
grains each. The wines of Posilipo, Capri, and Ischia, are pa-
latable and wholesome; and cost about three ducats and a
half the barrel, which holds ﬁfty-six caraﬁi, or pints. The wines
of Proceda and Calabria are good and wholesome; and cost
about four ducats and a half the barrel. The Sicilian wines
likewise are good *. Fire-wood usually costs from twenty to
twenty-two ducats the large canna Jr; and charcoal ﬁfteen car-
lini the quintal. 'Wax-lights of the best quality, called Venice-
candles, are about six carlini the pound; and tallow candles
twelve grains the pound in the shops, and eleven grains at the
Fabbrz'ca. Graindorges has, in the Largo del Castello, an
English Warehouse, which contains porter, ale; French, Spa-
nish, and Portugal wines; Marsala, brandy, rum, Hollands,
liqueurs, gunpowder, hyson, and black tea; Durham mustard;
English writing-paper, pens, and pencils; ﬁsh-sauces; court-
plaster; English cheese; curry-powder; anti-attrition grease;
English razors, saddles, and bridles; James’s powder, Epsom
and Cheltenham salts, soda-powders, Spirit of hartshorn, and
spirit of lavender. Strong’s British Warehouse, No. l, Strada-
M010, near the, Fontana-Medina, contains the same articles.

' Some of the best Calabrian and Sicilian wines are those of Piedimontc, Mon-
gibello, S. Eufemia, Marsala, and Siragusa. Good Malaga may frequently be
\ met with; and is sold by the rubbz'o, which contains about siitteen English quarts.
+ The large canna contains sixty-four palmi, it being a rule to have the cam:
square every way.

s33; git

CHAP. v. ITALY—NAPLES—PRICE OF VARIOUS ARTICLES. 117’

Naples is celebrated for its silks, gauzes, ribands, coral and
tortoise-shell manufactures, soap, essences; and especially for
its silk stockings, made at Sorrento, which are remarkably strong.
Silks for Ladies’ dresses are usually sold according to their
weight: common silks are of various qualities; that called Bat-
iavz'a (two palmi and a quarter Wide), is twenty-four carlini the
canna—that called Ormisino (four palmi wide), is twenty-eight
carlini the canna—that called Cattz'vella (seven palmi wide), is
from thirty-two to forty carlini the canna. Richer silks, called
the King’s, and sold at the Fabbrz'ca male, in the Strada—Toledo,
are more costly. Thin ell-wide silk, called Tqﬁta, is also sold
at this shop, for twenty-three carlini the canna. Cottone e setta
is strong, warm, cheap, and said to wash well. Silk stockings
cost from sixteen to twenty-ﬁve carlini the pair, according to
their weight and quality. Common silks, and Cottone e setta,
are sold in the streets near the Largo del Castello, and at the
Sedile di Porta. Naples is likewise famous for musical instru-
ment strings in general, and harp strings in particular. There
is a small circulating Library in Strada S. Giacomo, No. 19,
near the Strada-Toledo; and an excellent Bookseller’s and Sta-
tioner’s shop is kept by Sig. Angelo Trani, in the Largo del
Palazzo.

Doctor Thomas, an English Physician, resides at Naples; as
do Mr. Roskilly, an English Surgeon, and Mr. Riley, an En-
glish Surgeon and Apothecary, who sells English medicines.
One of the most celebrated Music Masters is Sig. Lanza, who
charges a piastre an hour; and the most celebrated Dancing
Master is Sig. Formichi, who charges the same.

For boxes at the Théatres there is a ﬁxed price; beyond
which nothing can he demanded for admission. A box, in the
third row, at the Theatre di S. Carlo, usually costs ﬁve piastres;
in the fourth row, four piastres; and in the ﬁfth row, three
piastres; and seats in the parterre, where Ladies may go without
the smallest impropriety, cost six carlini each. A box in the
third row, at the Theatre del Fondo, usually costs three piastres;
and in the fourth row, two piastres, or, at most, two and a half.
Seats in the parterre, are ﬁve carlini each. The F ondo is better
calculated, both for seeing and hearing, than is S. Carlo.

A good box at the Tcatro de’ Fiorentini may be procured for

 

113 APPENDIX. CHAP. v.

‘ﬁfteen .carlini—eat the Teatro della Fenice, for twelve carlinis—
and at the Teatro di S. Carlino, for ten carlini *.

Arrival and departure (y'Letter-Couriers and Procacci.

Sunday arrzve letters from France, Italy, and Germany. In the
afternoon goes the Courier of Cilento.

Monday and every other day, Sunday excepted, arrive and go the
Courier and Procaccio of Salerno, and the Courier of Palermo.

ﬁresday arrive letters from Bari, Lecce, Foggia, Lucera, and
Manfredonia: likewise the Procaccio of Melﬁ, Nocera, Mac
terdomini, and Sanseverino. In the evening go letters to
Italy, Germany, and Great Britain. -

Wednesday arrive the Procacci oﬁRome and Cilento: and on
Wednesday go the Procaccio of Melﬁ, and the Courier of
Palermo.

T hursday arrive letters from Spain, Italy, France,~Germany,
Great Britain, Messina, Palermo, Malta, and Calabria; Ba-
silicata, Sora, and Campo-basso: likewise the Procaccio of
Bari, Lecce, Foggia, Lucera, Abruzzi, Calabria, Basilicata,
Sora, and Campo-basso.

* Washerwomen at Naples commonly charge for washing and ironing as follows:
Sheets, per pair . . . grains )2
Pillow-case
Table-cloth ,
Napkin, and towel, each
Kitchen-apron
Shirt . . . .
Shift . . . . .
Drawers ,
Sleeping waistcoat . . .
Night-cap
Petticoat
Corset
Neck-cloth
Pocket handkerchiels, per dozen
Stockings, per pair (if silk)
A plain white dress ' .
A frill .
A muslin cap, if bordered with lace .
Stockings per pair, (if cotton) . 2

In the Strada-Vittoria, No. 38, there is a good Laundress, by name, Lastrucci ;

but her charges are high. She speaks English and French.

H
mgwmmawhaum__aw

N)

will

 

 

CHAP. v. ITALY—PLAIN or sonmmro. 119

Friday night goes the Procaccio to Rome.

Saturday morning arrives the Procaccio of Nocera, Materdo—
mini, and Sanseverino; and Saturday go the Procacci of
Bari, Lecce, Abruzzi, Foggia, Basilicata, Sora, and Campo-
basso; and the letters for Sora and Campo-basso. At night
go the Procacci of Calabria and Nocera, Materdomini and
Sanseverino, Bari, Lecce, Abruzgi, Foggia, Basilicata, Sora,
and Campo-basso; and the letters for Sora and Campo-
basso. At night go the Procacci of Calabria and Nocera,
hIaterdomini, Sanseverino and Monte-Sarchio. At night
lihewise go letters for Italy, Messina, Calabria, Palermo, and
Malta; Bari, Tarento, Lecce, Lucera, Foggia, Basilicata,
and Abruzzi.

During summer the Procacci set oat on the Friday night, in-
stead of the Saturday morninv. 0n the ﬁrst Saturday in every
month go letters for Ragusa and Constantinople.

Letters for Great Britain must be franked; and the price is
ﬁfteen grains for every single letter. Letters for France must
be franked; and the price is ten grains for every single letter.

The ofﬁce for franking letters is open every Tuesday and
Friday, from nine till twelve in the morning, and from two till
four in the afternoon.

PLAIN OF SORRENTO.
Price ofLodging-hoases.

Villa-Starace, in the Parish of S. Agnello, is a large house,
and would accommodate two moderate-sized Families: price
sixty ducats per month. Casa-Cesaro, in the same Parish, con-
tains two apartments, each of which might accommodate a
Lady and her Maid, or a Gentleman and his Servant; price of
each apartment from eight to ten ducats per month.

La Cocomella, near the sea, is a large house, containing two
suites of apartments: price thirty ducats per month for the
larger, and twenty for the smaller suite.

Casa-Spinelli, at Ponte-Maggiore, contains several rooms;
price twenty-eight ducats per month. Plate and linen are
included in these prices. There are several unfurnished Villas,
which the Proprietors would willingly let, and furnish for the
summer-season.

 

120 APPENDIX. CHAP. v.

Price of provisions, 8'6.

Beef (prime pieces) from twenty-three to twenty-four grains
the rotolo—veal (most excellent) from twenty to twenty-ﬁve
grains—hams (most excellent) from three and a half to four
carlini—butter, from ﬁve to six carlini *—bread, of the best
quality, seven grains—macaroni, from eleven to twelve grains
—ﬁsh, from twelve to thirty grains—fruit, from two to four
grains—ice, or rather frozen snow, two grains—oil, about
thirty grains the measure—excellent milk, three grains the
measure, which is nearly an English quart—wine of Sorrento,
per caraifa, three grains—wine of Capri, if it come direct from
that Island, twenty-eight carlini the barrel. Charcoal, from
twelve to ﬁfteen carlini the quintal; and ﬁre-wood, seven
ducats the small canna.

Sorrento is famous for clotted cream, and a dish, called, in
Devonshire, junket: and, what seems extraordinary, the Sor-
rentines give it the same name. Quails, during the month of
September, are particularly ﬁne, plentiful, and cheap.

Families who remove from Naples to the Plain of Sorrento,
during summer, would do well to take with them tea, sugar,
wax-candles, soap, coffee, and cheese. Brandy, rum, and the
wines of Spain, Portugal, and France, cannot be purchased at
Sorrento: but boats go daily thence, and from S. Agnello, to
Naples; and every Master ol'a boat may be trusted to execute
commissions, and even to bring letters and money for Foreigners.
The Sorrento and S. Agnello boats set out soon after day-break;
and return between three and four every afternoon, weather
permittinrr. The Meta—boats go more irregularly; there being,
at times, a dangerous surf on that shore. The price paid by
the Sorrentines for going to Naples in a public boat is six grains
per head.

The best method of conveying a large Family from Naples to
Sorrento is to hire one of these public boats; and embark about
mid-(lay; at which time the wind is usually favourable. Epi-
fanio, who commands the S. Agnello-boats, is a remarkably
skilful Mariner, and a very honest well-behaved man: one of

" Butter is sold by the nominal rotolo at four carlini 5 but the real rotolo ge~
nerally costs six.

 

, a

 

'CHAP. v1. ITALY—SORRENTO POST-OFFICE, &c. 121

his boats may be hired, in the above-named manner, for three
or four ducats, according to its size; and he may generally be
met with, at the M010 at Naples, from ten in the morning, till
twelve, every day, Sundays excepted.

Letters put into the Sorrento Post-Ofﬁce, go perfectly safe
to Naples: and letters addressed either to Sorrento, or any of
the Villas in the Plain, are delivered with punctuality. A large
Family, if economical, might live comfortably at Sorrento for
four hundred pounds per annum *.

 

CHAPTER VI.

Route from Geneva to Chamhe‘ry—ﬁom Chambérg over the Mont-
Cenis to Turin—New Road made by NapoleonuPassage of
DImzt—Genévre—Route from Nice through Genoa to Pisa—
from Leghorn through Pisa to Florence—from Pisa through '
Lucca and Pistoja to Florence—from Pisa to Modena—Ex-
pense of travelling en 'voiturier from Lucca through Pistoja to
F lorence—Price charged by Voiturins for conveying Luggage
from Florence t0 Rome—Lascia-Passare—Route from Flo-
rence through Siena to Rome—from Florence through Perugia
to Rome—from Genoa through Bologna, Bimini, Sinagalia,
Ancona, Loretto, and T erni to Rome—from Milan through
Bergamo, Verona, Vicenza, and Padua, to Venice, Bologna,
and Florence—from Milan to Bologna, through Piacenza,
Parma, Reggio, and JlIOdena—from Milan to Turin— rom
Aoste to Turin—from Turin over the Maritime Alps to Nice
—from Turin over the Bochetta to Genoa—from Rome to
Naples—Passporte-modes of dividing this journey—Common
J‘brm in which Agreements are made with Voiturins—Buona-
mano usually given to a Voiturier—Route en voiturier from
Pisa to Massa and Garrard—from Rome to Florence through
Perugia—Caution against travelling through l’erugia to Rome

* Washerwomen here are particularly moderate in their charges.

 

122 APPENDIX. . CHAP. v1.

during the great heats—Route en 'uoz'turz'er from Florence
through Siena to Rome—from Rome to Naples—Passports
—Route from Florence through Bologna, Venice, Vienna,
Prague and Dresden, to Hamburg—from Florence through
.Mantua, and by the T grol to Cuxhaven—and from Rome
through Florence and Milan by the Simplon to Geneva, and
over the, Jum- -Alps to Poligny, Dy’on, Melun, Paris and Bou-
logne—Passports.

Route from Geneva to Chambéry.

2 Luisette
1% Frangg - — - - - Two good inns.
L} Allende *
1% Rumillg/ - - — - - A small Village, placed at the
junction of the Seran and the
Nephe. Inn, Les trois Rois.
‘ 1% Albens
1% Air-les-Bains - - - formerly called Aqua-Gratiana.

The mineral waters of Aix are
in high repute; and its Baths
(supposed to have been con-
structed by the ancient Ro-
mans) were repaired by the
Emperor Gratian. Best inn,
La Cité de Genéve.
2 Chambéry.

 

§ posts.
Route from Chambe‘ry, over the ﬂIont-Cenis, to Turin.

2 Montméz'llant - - - The country from Chambéry hi-
ther is well cultivated; and the
vineyards near M ontmélian pro-
duce good wine. The latter
town is ﬁnely situated on the
Isére.

1% Maltavcrnc

1% Aiguebellc - - - - The country between Maltaverne

 

 

CHAP. VI. ITALY—PASSAGE OF THE MONT-CENIS. 193

2%- La grande ﬁfaison

and this village is barren: but
the situation of Aiguebelle is
pleasant; the inhabitants, com-
pared with their compatriots in
general, are wealthy; and the
Post-house is a good inn.

2% S. Jean de ZlIam‘iemze - Between Aiguebelle and S.Jean-de-

Maurienne are several bridges
thrown over a torrent, called
the Arc; which loses itself, be-
low the last-named town, in the
Isére. From Aiguebelle to S.
Jean-de-Maurienne the road
lies between some of the loftiest
of the Maritime Alps; parts of
which exhibit rocky and barren
scenery; while other parts are
embellished with pasturages,
chesnut and ﬁr-trees. The vil-
lages of D’Epiérre, La Cham-
bre, and La Chapelle, exhibit a
striking picture of poverty and
wretchedness: and so niggardl y
has Nature been to the inha-
bitants 'of this district, that
neither wine, nor wholesome
water, nor even the commonest
fruits, are attainable. Crétz'ns
abound here; and nearly all
the inhabitants are afﬂicted
with Goitres; though in more
elevated situations, this malady
is but little known. The new
road, however, made by order
of the Emperor Napoleon, has
proved extremely beneﬁcial to
the village of La Chambre; as
the torrent which formerly over-
ﬂowcd the surrounding land,

 

124 APPENDIX. CHAP. v1.

 

and thereby produced unwhole-
some air, is now conﬁned within
its proper channel, in order to
preserve the new works.

2 Saint-Michel- - - - Almost immediately beyond S.

’ Jean-de-Maurienne the road
crosses the Arvan on a stone
bridge; and then traverses the
Arc, on another bridge; facing
which is a rivulet of water that
petriﬁes every substance it
touches; and has, consequently,
made, for itself, a curious na-
tural Aqueduct. Midway be-
tween S. Jean-de-Maurienne
and S. Michel is the village of
S. Julien, celebrated for its
wines. S. Michel contains se-

. veral inns.

257 Modane _ _ _ - - The inn here is not a good one;
and the surrounding country is
bleak and steril.

2 Le Verney

2 Lans-Ze-Bourg -- - - Not far distant from Le Verney is
the double Cascade of S. Benoit,
one of the ﬁnest water-falls in
the Alps; but, though within
View of the road, not close to
it. Between Le Verney and
Lans-le-Bourg is Termignon,
situated on the Arc, not far
from its conﬂuence with the
Leisse. Lans-le-bourg, a dirty
town, at the base of Cenis, con-
tains tolerable inns, and a con-
siderable number of inhabitants;
all of whom are employed in
facilitating the passage of the
Mountain,- by removing the
new-fallen snow, during eight

 

CHAP. VI. ITALY—PASSAGE OF THE MONT-CENIS. ‘ IQS

or nine months of the year,
from those places where, if
suffered to accumulate, it might
block up the road; and by af-
fording Travellers every assist-'
ance they require.

Few scenes can be more astonishing, or more truly sublime,
than that exhibited by the road which traverses Cenis. Pompey
is supposed to have been the ﬁrst person who attempted making
a passage over this Alp; which, from his days till the year 1811,
could only be crossed on foot, on a mule, or in a chaise-a-por—
tem‘. Napoleon, however, determined to make a carriage-road:
and, to accomplish his purpose, employed the Cav. Giovanni
Frabbroni; who, in ﬁve months, by the aid of three thousand
workmen, formed a new route, practicable for carriages at all
seasons of the year; and not only practicable, but perfectly
safe; and, like the passage of the Simplon, exempt even from
the appearance of danger, although it traverses a part of Cenis
which is nine hundred and eighty-three fathom above the level
of the Mediterranean sea. This excellent and wonderful road
unites the Valley of the Arc in Savoy with that of the Doria-
Riparia in Piedmont, and Commences at Lans—le-Bourg by a ﬁne
wooden bridge, with stone piers, thrown over the Arc, thence
winding up the side of Cenis, by means of six galleries, cut
through pasturages and forests, to La Ramasse ; whence, during
winter, venturous Travellers, when coming from Piedmont, used,
previous to the formation of the new road, to descend to Lans-
le—Bourg (a distance of two leagues), in seven minutes; each
Traveller being seated in a traineau, guided by one man only;
who, if careless, or unskilful, often risked the loss of his own
life, together with that of the person he conducted: at present,
however, these vehicles may be used, on the new road, with
perfect safeness; though not with their former celerity. The
most elevated part of the route is a plain, two leagues in length,
encircled by the loftiest peaks of Cenis, and leading to La
grande Croix; where the new road isso placed as to avoid
those avalanches which rendered the old path at times dan-
gerous. The plain of Cenis is embellished with a beautiful
and, according to report, an unfathomable Lake; whose limpid
waters reﬂect the surrounding heights, and contain some of

    

' .41“?
126 ' APPENDIX. CHAP. vr.

the most delicious trout in Europe. Fronting this Lake stands
a hamlet, called Tavernettes, because every house (of which
there are not more than ﬁve or six) receives Travellers: and at
the extremity of the lake, on the Piedmontese side, and parallel
with the road, stands L’Hospice; which was founded by the
Emperor Charlemagne, for the accommodation of Travellers;
suppressed at the commencement of the French Republic; but
restored and rendered more than usually ﬂourishing, by the
Emperor Napoleon. One of the best dinners I ever saw, con—
sisting of all the eatables Cenis produces, was served at
L'Hospice ; and, what is still more important to Alpine Travel-
lers, we had excellent wine, likewise the produce of the moun—
tain, and large ﬁres. With our dessert came children, who
brought salvers ﬁlled with the various ﬂowers that enamel Cenis;
and the only return expected for this hospitality, which every
Traveller who visits L’Hospice experiences, is a small contri-
bution toward the maintenance of the establishment.

The descent into Piedmont exhibits much more stupendous
scenery than does the ascent from Savoy: and the difficulty of
constructing the new road was much greater on the Piedmontese
side than on the other. Above the wild and almost terriﬁc plain
of San-Nicolo, which divides Piedmont from Savoy, is a gallery
six hundred and ﬁfty feet in length, cut through solid rocks of
granite; and, as stones of considerable magnitude frequently
tumble from the heights above this gallery, arches have been
thrown over it, to preserve Travellers from danger. Hence, to
the Hamlet of Bart, the scenery is enchanting: and opposite to
the little village of Ferrieres, another gallery presents itself,
above tWo thousand feet in length, and cut through a remarka-
bly hard and almost perpendicular rock of solid granite. Here,
a wall nine feet in height, and six hundred in extent, defends
the gallery from earth and loose stones, which would otherwise
fall into, and destroy it. Near .Mollaret rise the fruitful hills of
Chaumont, at. whose base ﬂows the Doria-Riparia; which de-
scends from Mont-Genévre: and on the left, is the Valley of
Cenis, extending to Susa. From the Post-house at Mollaret to
the extremity of the pass of Giaglz'one, the road, generally
Speaking, is cut through rocks at the brink of a tremendous
precipice, ﬂanked by a strong dwarf-wall; and beyond S. Mar-
tino, it lies beneath the avalanche of Venaus, which falls an-

 

.v
4‘

CHAP. VI. ITALY—PASSAGE OF THE MONT-CENIS. 127

nually, and sometimes oftener: but, this part of Cenis being
very distant from the spot where the fall commences, warning is
given by a noise like thunder, above a quarter of an hour ere it
can possibly reach the road. Hence, the new route continues
to the entrance of the Faubourg of Susa, traversing in its pro-
gress a hill, covered with particularly rich and beautiful vege-
tation, and exhibiting the Valley of the Doria, and the moun-
tains near Turin. .

As Travellers who pass Cenis are liable to encounter fogs,
snow-storms, and dangerous gusts of wind, Napoleon established
in the most elevated and exposed parts of the route, twenty-ﬁve
small Inns, or Rgﬂtges, provided with bells, which during the ‘
prevalence of thick fogs are rung, to guide Trav‘ellers from one
Refuge to another: and these inns are tenauted by Cantonm'ers,
whose business it is to keep the road in good condition.

The number of Cantonniers instituted by Napoleon, has lately
been reduced by the King of Sardinia; Who still, however, pre‘
serves two companies, amounting to about ﬁfty men: and to as-
sist in defraying the expense of keeping the new route in repair,
and maintaining the establishment at L’Hospice, there is a tax,
amounting to two livres for every horse, or mule, who passes
Cenis, three livres for every carriage not on springs, and six
livres for every carriage with springs—small expenses these,
compared with what was formerly paid for conveying Travellers,
baggage and carriages over this Alp *. The new road is safe and
good at every season.

The Cantonnz'ers of Lans-le-Bourg are robust, intelligent,
and honest: neither C'rétz'ns nor goitrous swellings of any de-
scription are seen here: and, what seems extraordinary, the
Savoyard Peasants speak better French than do the Peasantry
of France.

3 L’Hospz'ce du .Mont-Cem's

3 JlIolaret

2 Susa - - - — - - This town, anciently called Segu-
sz'um, is watered by the Doria;
and was once defended by the-
strong Fortress of La Brunetta,

9* The last time I passed Cenis, before the new road was made, the expense of
conveying four persons and an English coach was ten louis-d’ors, from Lana-le-
Bourg to Novalesa.

128 APPENDIX. CHAP. v1.
V

which is now destroyed: but
there still remains, in the town,
a triumphal Arch, erected by
Cotus, the monarch of the
Cottian Alps, who resigned his
sceptre to Augustus.

In the valleys, between the‘base
of Cenis and Susa, the inhabit-
ants are afﬂicted with goitres;
which they attribute to the
chill the throat continually re-
ceives in consequence of the
excessive coldness of the water;
which is, generally'speaking, the
only beverage they can com-
mand: neither can they afford
to purchase clothes sufﬁcient
to defend them from the rigours
of their climate; nor any sus-
tenance except bread, chesnuts,
and the ﬁsh of the lakes and
torrents; nay, even salt, the
only cordial within their reach,
cannot be universally attained,
on account of the heavy tax
laid upon it.

1% S. Georgia - - - - Part of the road from Susa hither
traverses the bed of a torrent,
where the stones and sand re-
semble silver. The inn at S.
Georgio is tolerably good.

 

1;:- S. Antonino
1% Aviglz'ano

1% Rivoli

2% Turin- - - - - - The road beyond S. Antonino
—— passes through a deserted town,
34% posts. nearly entombed by fallen

rocks; then traverses a moun-
tainous country; and afterward
proceeds in a straight line to

ig'

CRAP. v1. ITALY—PASSAGE OF MONT GENEVRE, &c. 129

Turin, through a rich plain
fertilized by canals which dis-
tribute the waters of the Doria.

Passage of [Wont Genévre.

The distance from Briancon to Mont Genévre is three leagues;
and the road recently made under the direction of the Cav.
Giovanni Fabbroni over this mountain, traverses a forest of
pines, ﬁrs, and latches; not, however, by means of long and
beautiful winding galleries, like those of the Simplon and Cenis;
but by short and numerous turns, resembling a corkscrew, like
those of the Colude-Tende. Forests of latches crown the
heights above the plain of Mont Genévre, which exhibits an ex-
traordinary sight in the Alps, ﬁelds of rye and oats, seldom un-
productive, though frequently injured by the severity of the
climate; and here, during the month ofi May, when Cenis still
wears his winter mantle, spring puts on her gayest dress, and
exerts her utmost activity: Travellers, however, who pass the
Mont Genévre, should recollect that Bears are more common

here, than on Cenis. The plain is not so extensive as that of

the last-named mountaii ; but contains a village, and a Convent

for the reception of Travellers. From Mont Gené'vre to Cesamze

is two leagues—from Cesmme to Sestric‘res four leagues—the

descent from Sestriéres to Fenestrclles four leagues—and at the

latter village there is a tolerable Inn. The double Fort of

Fenestrelles merits notice, both with respect to its construction

and its situation. Hence to Pignerol is eight leagues—from

Pigncrol to None four leagues and a half—and from None to _
Turin the same distance. None contains a tolerable Inn. ‘

Route from Nice, through Genoa, to Pisa.

l I'illa-anca
1 Monaco

1 Blenione

1 l’ciztz'migiia
l San-Remo

l Porto- illuurizio
l Oncgli a

App.) r:

130

huHh‘HHHl-I-dO-I’.‘

NKOHN

1L

8

ROI—t

n—v—oHi-‘h‘b-It—Ib-Ah-I

APPENDIX. CHAP. VI.

Alassz'o

Albenga

Finale

Nolz'

Savona

Varaggio

Arezzano

Voltri

Sestri-di-Ponente

Genoa» - - - - - The Gates of this city are always
shut one hour after sun-set.

Recco

Rapallo

Chia'vari

Bracco

Mattarana

Borglzetto

Spezzia

Sarzana

Lavenza

Massa

Pietra-Santa

Via-Reggio

T orretta

Pisa - - - - - - Between Torretta and Pisa Tram

— vellers cross the Serchio in a

35

Hid—Ila

l
1

posts. ferry.

Route from Leghorn, through Pisa, to Florence.

Pisa

La Fornacette

Castel del 80300

La Scala - - - - - Inn, La Pasta, and very uncom-
fortable.

Ambrogiana - - - - Inn, La Pasta, and very uncom-
fortable.

La Lastra

Firenze - ~ - ~ - The whole road, from Leghorn to

—— Florence, is excellent, and a1—
8 posts. most totally exempt from hills:

 

 

CHAP. VI. ITALY—ROUTES. 131

the inns are bad: but this is of
little consequence to persons
who go post; as the journey
does not occupy more than ten
hours with post-horses. Per-
sons who travel en voilurz'er, and
sleep upon the road, generally
stop at Capretta ; which is about
mid-way between Pisa and F10-
rence; and where the Inn is
better than those at La 80313.
and Ambrogiana*. I

Route ﬁom Pisa, through Lucca and Pistoja, to Florence.

1% Lucca - - - - - An extra half-post is paid on going
from Pisa to Lucca; and an ex-
tra half-post on quitting Lucca.

ll2 Borgo-a-Buggiana

I; Pistoja

1% Prato

1% F irenze.

7% posts.

Bouteﬁom Pisa to Aladena.

5 Pistoja

1 Piastre

l S. llIarcelIo '- - - - The Inn here is tolerahly good,
and pleasantly situated on a hilb

* Persons who wish to go either from Leghorn or Pisa to Rome, without pass-
ing through Florence, may save three posts, by taking the direct road through Pog-
gibonsi to Siena. This journey en voz'turier occupies about six days and a half;
and Voz'turins usually convey an English carriage, containing four persons, from
Leghorn to Rome, for about sixteen louis-d’ors.

The direct road from Leghorn, through Pisa, to Poggibonsi, is as follows:

Posts 5, to La Scala.
1, to Cammz'ano.
2, to Peggibonsi.

13?. APPENDIX. CRAP. vr,

 

l Piano-Asinatico

it Bosco-Lungo -- - - Last post of Tuscany.

l Picve di Pelago - - - First post of the Modenese.

l Batigazzo

l M onte- Cenere

% Paullo

a} Serra (16’ Mazzoni

1 S. Vcnanzio

% Formigine

it .Modena. - - - - - Travellers are frequently charged

one post from S. Venanzio to

15% posts. Formigine, and the same from

Formigine to Modena.

The journey from Pistoja to Modena was performed with ease
by an English Gentleman during the month of November, and
without an Avant-Courier to order horses, within twenty-four
hours: or, to speak more precisely, he was on the road travel-
ling seventeen hours and a half, and stopped for changing horses,
&c. three hours. The ascents are judiciously formed; the road
is admirable, and well defended from danger; but the accom-
modations are not good.

The distance from Modena to Mantua is ﬁve posts and a
half.

Voiturins will take an English post-chaise, carrying three or
four persons from Lucca through Pistoja to Florence, in one
day and a half, for nine scudi, buona-mano not inclusive, and
they will likewise convey luggage from Florence to Rome for
two pezzi-duri the hundred weight.

Route from Florence, through Siena, to Home.

Previous to undertaking this journey, it is advisable for British
Subjects, if they travel in their own carriage, to apply to the
British Consul-G eneral at Rome, for a Lascia passare for Pente-
Centino, and another for the Porta del Popolo at Rome.

1 S. Casciano - — - - Apost-royal'. Athird horse.
1 Tavarnelle — - - - Athird horse.

1 Poggibonsi - - - - Best inn, La Corona. The road

 

CHAP. vr. ITALY—ROUTES. 133

from Florence hither is hilly,
and, in general, paved.
- A third horse. Road good.

1 Castiglimzcello -

l Siena - - - - - - Best inn, L’Aguila Nera, already
mentioned. Road hilly, but
good".

1 Montaroni '

Buonconvento - - - Road from Siena'hither excellent.

1 T orrineiri - - - - A third horse to Podcrina, and the
same returning.

1 Pederina

l Ricorsi - - - - - A third horse to Radicofani.

1 Radicqfani - - - - A large and good Inn, already
mentioned. Road from Buon-
convento hither excellent, but
hilly.

1% Pontc-Centino - - - This is the ﬁrst Custom-house in

the Ecclesiastical territories :
and Travellers who are not pro-
vided with a Lascia passare for
Ponte-Centino meet with an un-
pleasant detention here, and
pay for having their :baggage
plumbed. The road from the
Post-house on Radicof'ani to
the torrent at the base of the
mountain is excellent; but thence
it traverses six or seven times
the bed of the torrent; which
bed consists of large loose stones
that occasion continual jolts;
and, beyond T oricelli, this tor-
rent (as has been already men-
tioned), is, after rain, sometimes

* Travellers would do wisely to take wine and water from Siena, for the rest of
their journey; both being excellent here, and unwholesome in most of the succeed-
ing towns. It is likewise advisable to take fruit from Siena. On entering this
city, Travellers are obliged to leave the keys of their trunks at the Gate, and pay
one livre ; for which sum the keys are brought to the opposite Gate, and delivered
up, when their owners quit Siena.

134‘ APPENDIX. CHAP. VI.

dangerous: but, in case of ne-
cessity, Travellers may sleep at
Toricelli.

1 Aquapendentc - - - The road beyond the torrent, to
this town, is excellent; and the
Inn here tolerably good.

] San-Lorenzo mw'uo - - Inn good. Road excellent.

] Bolsena - ,_ - - - Road excellent. A third horse to
Monteﬁascone.

1% Monteﬁascone - - ' - Road good, but hilly.

1 Viterbo - - - - - Two good inns, already mentioned.

The Aquila Nera seems to be
more frequented than the other.
A third horse to the mountain.

1 La Montagna - - - Road good, but hilly.

I Ia’onciglione - - - Inn bad. Road good.

I Monterosi - - - Inn bad. Road good.

I. Baccano - - - - - Inn the Post-house, and tolerably
good.

1 Stvrta
1% Roma.- — - ~ ‘

The road between Monterosi and

the Ponte-Molle, from the spot
24 posts. where the Loretto and Siena
routes join, is rough; but, from
the Ponte-Molle to Rome, ex-
cellent. Travellers who are pro-
vided with a Lascia passare for
the Porta del Popolo, have no
trouble with respect to Custom~
house Oﬂicers ; but persons,
not so provided, are obliged to
drive, in the ﬁrst instance, to
the Custom-house; and give
from ﬁve to ten pauls, in order
to save their luggage from exa-
mination. An extra quarter of
a post is charged on entering
Rome; and an extra halflpost
on quitting it.

 

 

CHAP. v1. ITALY—ROUTES. 135

Route ﬁom Florence through Perugz'a to Rome.

- - Road good, but hilly. A post-
royal.

2 Piandel—Fonte

2 Levane - - - - - Road good, but hilly.

2 Arezzo - - - - - Road tolerably good. Inn, La
Pasta, and good.

2 Camuscia- - - - - Road tolerably good. Inn, La

Pasta, and good.

Road, during rainy seasons, dan-
gerous, from its vicinity to the
Lake of Perugia, which is apt
to overﬂow. Inn bad, and so
unwholesomely situated, that
Travellers should not risk sleep-

2 Torricella

ing at it.

2 Perugia - - - - - Road had during wet weather.
The Locanda‘ Ercolani is the
best inn.

1% La Madonna degliAngz'oli Road good, but hilly.

ll, Foligno - - - - - Road good. Inn, L’Albergo Reale,
and very good.

1 Le Vene - - - - - Road good.

1 Sjwleto - - - - - Road good. Here the Post-Master

is authorised to put on a third
horse. The mountain of La.
Somma, over which the road
passes, is the highest point in
this part of the Apennine. La
Somma is said to derive its name
from a Temple of Jupiter Sum-
manus, that once stood on its

summit.

1 Strettura - - - - - Road good, but hilly. A third
horse.‘

1 Terni - - - - - - Road good, but hilly. Inn, the
Post-house, and very comfort-
able.

1 Narni- — - - - - Road good. Inn good.

Otrz'colz' - - - - - Road good. This town stands

g

136 APPENDIX. CHAP. VI.

about two miles from the ancient
Otriculum, which was seated on
the Tiber *.

41 Borg/zetto - - - - - Between Otricoli and this village
the road crosses the Tiber on
a ﬁne bridge erected during the
reign of Augustus, and repaired

‘ by Sixtus V.

-} Civita-Castellana - - Road good, but hilly. Two Inns,
both uncomfortable as sleeping-
places. '

1 Nepi - - - - - - Inn uncomfortable as a sleeping-
place.

1 [Wonterosi

l Baccano

l Storta

1% Roma.

27 $ posts.

 

Route from Genoa, through Bologna, Bimini, Sin’agalia, Ancona,
Loretta, and T end, to Rome.

1% Campo-marone

2 Voltaggio

2 Novi

2 Tortona

1;; Voghera

2% Broni

l Castel S. Giovanni - - Between this spot and Piacenza,
the road traverses the bed of
the T rebia.

2 Piacenza

2 Fiorenzuola - - - - The Post-house here isa good inn.
1 S. Donnino

1 Castel-Guejfo

l Parma

l S. Ilarz'o ‘

l Reggio

‘5 Some vestiges of the ancient Olriculum may still be discovered.

CHAP. v1. ITALag—1M0LA—FAENZA—FORLI—CESENA. 137

l Ruhiera
1 Modena
1% Samoggia
1% Bologna - - - -

1:}— S. Nicola

1%Imola- - - - -

1 F aenza

lForli~---_

- Between Samoggia and this city

there is a bridge thrown across
the Reno. Bologna is famous
for quinces.

- The road crosses the Savena on a

bridge.

- This town, the Forum Cornelii of

the Romans, is seated on the
ancient Via Emilia, which leads
from Bologna to Bimini.

- Between Imola and this town

the road crosses the Santerno
on a bridge. Faenza, anciently
Faventia, was heretofore ce-
lebrated for earthen-ware, to
which it gave the name of
Fai'ence. Part of the road be-
tween S. Nicolo and Faenza
is, during wet weather, dan-
gerous.

- Anciently Forum Livii. The cu-

pola of the Cathedral, painted
by Cignani, and the Chapel of
the Madonna del Furco, toge-
ther with several pictures in
other Churches, merit notice.
The Square is one of the ﬁnest
in Italy; and the Post-house is
a tolerable inn.

1% Cesena - - - - - The road, previous to entering

this town, crosses the Savio on
a magniﬁcent modern bridge.
Cesena contains a, curious Ll-
brary belonging to the Minor
Conventuals, and a colossal statue
(y‘Plus VI. Between two and
three miles from this town, the

38 APPENDIX. CHAP. v1.

road crosses the Pisatello, which
ﬂows into the Fiumecino, sup-
- posed to have been anciently

called the Rubicon. Some au-
thors, however, assert that the
Pisatello itself was the stream
which divided Cisal'pine Gaul
from Italy.

1 Savignano - - - - Anciently Compitum.

1 Rimini - - - - - The road between this town and

‘ Fano is the ancient Via Fla-
minia. Rimini, the Araminium
of the Ancients, and once a con-
siderable city, still exhibits re-
mains of former magniﬁcence.
The Bridge over the Marecchia,
originally the Arminum, appears
to have been either built or re-
paired by Augustus and Tibe-
rius: it is situated at the junc-
tion of the Via Emilia with the
Via Flaminia ; and particularly
merits observation. On quit-
ting Rimini, the Pesaro-road
passes under a T riumplzal Arclz,
erected in honour of Augustus.

Ravenna, the seat of Empire under

Theodoric, is only four posts
distant from Rimini, and merits
notice, on account of its anti-
quities; and likewise because it
contains the tomb of Dante.
Best inn, La Fantana.

1% Caltolica - - - - - Previous to arriving at this town,
the road crosses the Conca on
a bridge; but, when the Conca
rises high in consequence of
rain, this road is dangerous.
Between Cattolica and Rimini
are ruins of the ancient city of

 

 

CHAP. VI. ITALY—PESARO—FARO—ANCONA. 139

Conca, inundated by the sea;
and at a distance, on the left, is
the little Republic of San-Ma-
rino.

1 Pesaro - - - - - The great square is handsome,
and contains a statue of Urban
VIII. Several antiquities and
some ﬁne paintings may be found
in this town. The ﬁgs of Pe-
saro are deemed the best in
Italy; and The Locanda di
Parma is an excellent inn.

1 Fano - - - — — - The modern name of this town

seems to be derived from a

Fano, or Temple of Fortune,

which once stood here. The

ancient name, according to Vi-

truvius, was Colonia Fanestris.

The objects best worth notice

at Fano are the remains of the

triumphal Arch quonstantz'ne—
the Library—the T heatre—and
the Cathedral, which contains
paintingsbyDomenichino. The

Inn here is tolerably good.

] ZlIaratta - - - - - Between Fano and Maratta the
road crosses the Metro, an-
ciently Metaums, celebrated for
the defeat and death of Asdru-
bal, during the second Punic
war.

] Sinigaglia - - - - So called from its Founders, the
Galli- Senones. This town boasts
a celebrated Fair during the
last week of July.

1 Case-Bruaiate

l Ancona - - - - - So called from being built in an
angle resembling an elbow. This
is a commercial town, with a
ﬁne Harbour, and a magniﬁ-

140 ATPENDI-x. CHAP. VI.

cent Quay. Thetriumplzal Arch,
erected by the Roman senate,
in honour of the Emperor Tra-
jan, for having improved the
Harbour of Ancona at his own
expense, peculiarly merits no-
tice; as it is ﬁnely propor-
tioned, well preserved, and
composed of Parian marble.
Clement XII, made Ancona a
Free-Port.

Oblong shell-fish called Ballari,
or Dattili del mare, are found
alive in large stones on this
coast: they were deemed a
great delicacy by the ancient
Romans; and are, according
to Pliny, so luminous that they
shine in the mouth of the person
who eats themh

 

1% Camurano

1 Loretto - - - - ‘- The road betwei'fitAncona and
Loretto traverses a beautiful
plain intersected by the rivers
Musone and Aspido. Few of
the original treasures, perhaps,
may now remain in the cele-
brated Santissz'ma Casa of L0-
retto: but the Sacristy belong—
ing to the Church (the outside
of which was built by Buona—
roti), and the adjoining Trea-
sury are adorned with good
paintings. The Dispensary con-
tains a large number of gallipots,
painted, it is said, either by

‘ Raphael and Giulio Romano,
or after their designs.

‘1 Sambuchetto

1 Bignmzo

,1“

CHAP. vr. lTALY—BERGAMO, &c. 144

2 Macerata. - - - - - T he Post-house here is agood inn.
The country between Loretto
Vand Macerata is beautiful, and
richly cultivated ; and near the
latter town are ruins of the city
of Heloia-Ricina, built by Sep-
timius Severus. Macerata is
famous for artichokes.
l Tolenn'no - - - - - The Square in this town exhibits
33;» a well-preserved piece of an-
cient Sculpture. After quitting
Tolentino, the road traverses a
part of the Apennine.
1% Valcimam - - - - The number of torrents which is-
sue f‘rom the eastern side of the
Apennine is so considerable,
that Travellers should not ven-
ture to gt) by way of Ancona
and Loretto to Rome, after re-
cent inundations, caused either
by hard rain, or the melting of

‘v.

 

snow.

1 Ponte-ailaéTrare ‘

1 Seraml/e

1 Case-Nuove

l Foligno

12% Roma. - - - - - See the Route from Florence
through Perugia to Rome.

67 posts.

Route from ﬂfilmz throng/L Bergamo, Verona, Vicenza, andPudua,
to Venice, iologna, and Florence.

1f Colombarolo - - - - The country from Milan hither
is beautiful.

1% Vapria

l Osio

1 Bergamo - - - - - Near Canonica Travellers cross

the Adda, anciently the Adua,

in a Ferry. The Bergamasco is

 

142 APPENDIX. CHAP. v1.

highly cultivated, fertile, and
populous; the town of Bergamo
large, well fortiﬁed, and adorn-
ed with a handsome Cathedral.
which contains paintings of the
modern Venetian school: but
the best pictures are in the
Church (f S. Maria Jlﬂzggz'ore. .7 ;.
Principal inn, L’Alhergo Beale.
Bergamo is called the birth-

place of Harlequin.

 

 

 

l Cavernago

1; Palazzolo

1% Ospedaletto

l Brescia - - - - - The road from Bergamo hither
traverses a rich plain at the foot
of the Alps. Brescia is a con-
siderable town, seated at the
base of a mountain, between
the rivers Mella and Naviglio;
and supposed to contain 40,000 .
inhabitants: its} ' iﬁcations are ,
strong, and defended by a cita-
del. The Paiazzo di Giuslz'zia
is a remarkable ediﬁce, built
partly in the Gothic, and partly
in the Grecian style; and con-
tains ﬁne frescos, together with
other good paintings. The Cathe-
dral is a handsome modern struc-
ture. The Churches If S. Na-
:aro al Carmine, and S. Afra,
contain ﬁne pictures of the Ve-
netian school; as do several of
the Palaces. The Illazzucchelli
collection (3fmedals, and #:610116-
Iic Library, merit'notice. The
Theatre is magniﬁcent ; and La
Torre is deemed the best inn.
1% Peale .3. Alarm

CHAP. VI.

1 Desenzano

1% Castel-Nzwvo
1% Verona -

ITALY—VERONA. 143

- After passing Ponte S.Marco, the

road lies on the luxuriant mar-
gin of the Lago di Garda; whose
waters resemble a little sea, and
contain a ﬁsh called Carpionc,
which was deemed particularly
delicious by ancient Epicures.
The Lago di Garda, formerly
called Lamas Benacus, is about
thirty -ﬁve miles in length ;
and, where widest, fourteen in
breadth: the Alps in great mea-
sure surround it, and the pic-
ture it exhibits is most beauti-
ful.

- 0n quitting the margin of the

Lago di Garda, the road enters
the Veronese, which is one of
the most fertile parts of Italy;
abounding in corn, wine, oil,
fruits, mulberry-trees, rice, &c.
Verona, pleasantly situated on
the Adige (anciently Atagis),
and one of the oldest cities
of Italy, is supposed to con-
tain near 50,000 inhabitants, in-
cluding its suburbs. The for-
tiﬁcations were constructed by
San-Micheli. Here are three
T riump/zalArches; one of which,
called Porta di Borsari, was
erected in the reign of Gallie-
nus ; and that near the Castel
Vecchio, byVitruvius. T he Am-
phitheatre, supposed to have
been built during the reign of
Trajan, is nearly perfect, and
highly merits notice. It con—
tains 23,484 spectators commo-

14-4 APPENDIX. ' » CHAP. v1.
diously seated; is composed of
blocks of marble without ce-
ment, and situated just beyond
the walls of the city. Close to
this magniﬁcent. monument of
antiquity, is the modern Theatre,
aﬁne structure, the entrance to .
which is by a beautiful portico,
built by Palladio. In the Piazza
dei Signori is the Palazzo dd
Consiglio, a noble ediﬁce, built
by San-Sovino. The Cathedral,
3 very ancient Gothic ediﬁce, is
embellished With a ﬁne picture
of the Assumption, by Titian.
The Church of S. Bernardino
contains the celebrated Cap-
pella-Varesca, by San-Micheli.
Verona gave birth to the Poets
Catullus and ZEmilius Macrus; .
the Historian Cornelius Nepos;
Pliny the Elder “:gVitruvius, the
celebrated Archi ect of the Au-
gustan age ; Paolo Veronese;
and many other persons of dis-
tinguished abilities.

The petriﬁed ﬁshes found in Monte
Bolca, near Verona, are curious.
Principal inns, Le due Terri,
and La Torre.

Caldiero

I
l Monte-Bella
1% Vicenza - - - — - From Verona hither the road is
w bordered by mulberry-trees, in-
" terlaced with vines ;' and exhi-
bits a View of the Alps which
divide Italy from Germany.
Vicenza, anciently called Vi-
cetta, is delightfully situated on
the Bacchiglione, between two

 

 

CHAP. v1. ITALY—PADUA—VENICE. 145

mountains; it contains, includ-
ing its suburbs, above 30,000
inhabitants; and is the birth-
place of the celebrated Archi-

‘ tect Palladio, who has adorned
it with his choicest works;
the most eminent of which is
the Olympic Theatre. T he Izouse
Ize once inhabited, a model of
simplicity and elegance, may
still be seen. In the Church of
S. PJic/zeli is a picture of S.Au-
gustin, by Tintoretto; and in
tlzat oft/zeDomenicans, an adora-
tion (of the lVIagi, by Paolo
Veronese. Best inns, Il Cap-
pe.’lo Basso, and Lo Scudo di
Francia. The environs of Vi-
cenza merit notice, especially
the Rotonda of the Casa- Capra ,-
the triumphal Arc/L (m the right
of the Gate oft/us llIadonna del
lllonte; and tlze Portico leading
to that C/zurcli ; all of which are
the works of Palladio. The
wine of Vicenza has the re-
putation of being particularly
wholesome; and the climate,
during summer, is one of the
best in northern Italy.

1; Aslesega - - - - - The country from Verona hither
is beautiful.
1 Padual - - - - - T lee Stella (1’ am has been already

mentioned as a good inn: the
Aquila d’oro likewise is a good

one.
1% Dole
1% Fusina
Venice ~ - ~ — - Bz/ water,jire mi'es. The passage

141917.] L

146 \ APPENDIX. CHAP. vi,
money in a gondola is about
twelve livres.

Persons who prefer'going by water
from Padua to Venice, may hire
for three, or, at most, four se-
quins, a burchiello, or peotta,
and descend the Brenta, to the
last-named city, in eight hours.
The road by land, to Fusina,
runs parallel with the Brenta;
whose waters are constantly
covered with gondolas and
other vessels; and whose banks

‘ are lined with populous vil-

lages and magniﬁcent villas;
most of which were built after
the designs of Palladio.

Travellers who go by land to Fu-
sina, usually return by water to
Padua; whence the distance
1s—

Posts
1% to Monselz'ce
2 Rovigo
15’; Polesella
2 Ferrara - - - - - A Procaccio goes twice a week
from Ferrara to Bologna, by
water.
1% Malabergo
l Capodargine
l Bologna .
ll Pianoro - - - - - Hence to Lojano a third horse,

2
or oxen, to every calesse: and

for all the sharp ascents of this
passage of the Apennine carv
riages which usually travel with
three horses must have four,
and carriages which usually
travel with four horses must
have six, beside oxen.

 

CRAP. v1. ITALY—PASSAGE on THE APENNINE, &c. 147

1% Lojano

1 Filigare

l Covigliajo

l Blonte-Carelli - - - On going from Monte-Carelli to
Covigliano a third horse, or
oxen.

1 Fonte-Buona

1 Firenze.

 

42% posts.

Route from Jililan to Bologna, through Piacenza, Parma, Reggio,
and .Modena.

1% ZlIelegnano

1% Lodi - - - ~ - - Inns, L’Albergo del Sole; I trc
Re; &c.

1% Casal-Pusterlengo

1% Piacenza

12 Bologna. - — - - - See “ Route from Genoa, through

-— Bologna, Rimini, Sinagalia, An-

17% posts. cona, Loretto, and Terni, to
Rome.”

Route from lililan to Turin.

1—:— Sedriano

l Biffalora
2 Novara - - - — - This is an episcopal city of high
. antiquity, and its Cathedral

merits notice. Here are three
inns, Les trois Rois, La Pois-
son d’or, and Le Faucon.

1%— Ovﬁngo

1% Vercelli - - - - - Between Novara and Vercelli the
country is marshy, and the air
unwholesome. Rice grows lux-I
uriantly here, and seems to be
almost the only grain which is

L 2

148 APPENDIX. CHAP. VI,

cultivated in this neighbour-.
hood. Vercelli, seated at the
conﬂuence of the Cerva and
the Sesia, is a considerable
town; and the Portico of its
Cathedral merits notice. The
principal inns are, Lie Lion d’or,
_ and Les trois Rois.

1% S. Germano ‘
2% Cigliano
3—21- Chivasco

 

1% Settimo
1-71: Turin. - - - - — - Between Settimo and Turin the
road is excellent, and the coun-
l7§ posts. try fertile, well cultivated, and
watered by the rivers Doria,
Stura, Molone, Orco, and Dora-
Baltea, all of which descend
' from the Alps.
Route from Aoste to Turin.
2 Chatillon
2 Verrez - - - - - Inn, tolerably good.
1% Settimo
1% Ivrée ‘
2 Foglizzo
2 Turin.

 

10;- posts.
Route ﬂom Turin, over the Maritime Alps, to Nice.

2} Carignano

2% Racconigi

1-,“- Savigliano

2% Centale

1% Coni - - - x - - Best inn, La Pasta.
1% Barge S. Dalmazio

1% Limone

 

RU

CHAP. v1. ITALY—PASSAGE or THE BOCHETTA, &c. 149

3 T enda

2% Breglio

2% Sospello

22E Scarena

% Nice. - - - - - - Persons going this road should
—-— take wine from Turin.

2473 posts.
Route from Turin, over the Bachetta to Genoa.

1% Trzgﬁzrello
;

I, Poirino

1% Dusino

1% La Gambetta

2% Asti - - - — - - Inns, La Rosa rossa; and Il
Leone d'oro.

1—:— Annone

2% Alessandria - - - - This town contains, beside T Ize
A lbergo vecclzio d’Italz'a, already
mentioned, two inns, namely,
I tre Re, and La Locana’a
d’Inghilterra.

2 Noni

2 Voltaggz'o - - - — - A third horse for the passage of

the Bochetta.
2 Campo-Marone - -‘ - Inn, La Pasta.

 

1% Genoa. -_ - — - - The journey from Alessandria
over the Bochetta to Genoa,
19—} posts. with post-horses, seldom occu-

pies more than ten hours.

Route from Rome to Naples.

Previous to undertaking this journey it is requisite for British
Subjects to obtain passports from the British Consul-General,
countersigned at the Police-Office, and likewise by the Neapo-
litan Minister at Rome.

1% Torre a’i mezza-via
3 ”Album?

150 APPENDIX. CHAP. v1.

2 Velletri
, 1% Cisterna ' Pontine Marshes. The journey

I Torre de’ tre Ponti from Velletri to Terracina

l Bocca di Fiume , usually occupies from four to

1 Mesa ﬁve hours, with post-horses.

1% Terracina

1% Fondi

l Itri

1 Mola

1 Garigliano - - - - The toll paid for every four-
wheeled carriage on springs
which crosses the Garigliano is
six carlini.

l S. Agata

] Sparanise

1% Capua - - - - - - At the barrier here, from three
to four ducats are paid for every
English coach, or post-chaise.

l Aversa

l Naples. - — - - - An extra half—post is paid on en-

 

tering and on quitting this city *.
20% posts.

Persons in robust health, who go post from Rome to Naples,
may, by setting out very early the ﬁrst morning, reach Terra—
cina before the close of day; and again, by setting out very
early the second morning, they may reach Naples that night.
If, however, ill health, short days, or any other cause, compel
Travellers to sleep two nights on the road, the best plan is to
go to Velletri the ﬁrst day, to set out soon after sun-rise on the
second day, drive to M010 diGaeta, sleep there; and, on the
third day, by setting Out early, it is practicable to reach Naples
at the common hour for dinner. By pursuing this plan Tra-
vellers pass the Pontine Marshes at the wholesomest time,
namely, between nine in the morning and three in the after-
noon.

' Travellers, on entering Naples, are obliged to deposit their passports at the
Police-Ofﬁce; neither can they, till their departure, legally reclaim them.

 

 

 

CRAP. VI. [TALES—AGREEMENTS WITH VOITURINS. 151

T he common Form in which Agreements are drawn up wit];
Voiturins.

Col presente foglio da valere come se fosse pubblica scrittura'
mi obbligo, i0 qui sottoscritto, di somministrare al Sic. N. N.***
buoni cavalli per attaccarli ad unfa carrozza da servire a ****
Signori col di loro equipaggio, e di piﬁ, un altra carrozza di
mia proprieté, con altri ** * buoni cavalli pr. condurre 1e Per-
sone di Servizio de’ sud“~ Signori con il di loro corrispondente
equippaggio, da Firenze a Roma, co’ seguenti patti e condi-
zioni cioé.

I'D". Di dover partire 1a mattina nell’ ora che sara’ conve-
nente ai Signori N. N.

11““ Di dovere io pensare in tutto a1 viaggio a far 10 spese
del pranzo 1a mattina e cena la sera tanto pe’ sud‘i- Signori che
alla Gente di Servizio con dar loro buona tavola a tenore dell
use.

111‘“ Di esser tenuto a supplire alle spese di alloggio si {)6
Signori che pr. 1a Gente di Servizio, con assegnar loro *** *
stanze libere dovendo quelle destinate pe’ Servitori esser nello
stesso piano 6 contigue a quelle de’ Padroni con fornirle di lumi
e fuoco si alle une che alle altre ogni qualvoltase ne faranno 1e
richieste.

IVm' Che 1e spese di passi scafe montagne, &c. debbano
andare a carico di me qui sottoscritto, tanto pr. le Persone che
pr. la roba.

V‘O- Che dovendo aggiungersi de’ cavalli quando il bisogno
lo richédera, dovré‘z benanche andare a carico mio si per tras-
porto dell’ enunciate Persone che per il di loro equipaggio.

Eper l'adempimento di quanto mi sono di sopra obbligato il
prelodato Sig. N. N. sari tenuto di corrispondermi la somma di
zecchini *** * Romani, o moneta d’argento equivalente com-
presa la buona-mano a tutt’ i Postiglioni la quale dovnz‘l andare
a carico mio; e nel caso il sud“ Sig. N. N. volesse trattenersi
in qualche luogo sari egli obbligato pagarmi paoli * * * * per
ogni giornata intiera e paoli * * * * per ogni mezza giornata.

E per l’osservanza degli espressi patti obbligo me, i miei credi
e successari, beni tutti stabili, e mobili, presenti e futiri.

Presenti i testimonj Si“. N. N. e Sig. N. N. Firenze * **.

J0 N. N. mi obbligo come sopra.

Jo N. N. Testimonio. }

Jo N. N. Testimonio.

\

152 APPENDIX. CHAP. v1

La suda- ﬁrma e di propria mano del sud“- Ni N. il quale si e
obbligato come sopra presenti i Testimonj Sic. N. N. e N. N. ed
in sede pr. io Notaro N. N. da Firenze di chiesto ho' segnato.

N. B. When the journey is. a long one, it may perhaps be
more prudent not to comprise the huona-mcmo in the agree-
ment.

The buona-mano usually given to a Voiturier, if he behave
well, is about half a scudo per day.

Route, en voitm'ier, from Pisa to Massa and Carram, with an
English post-chaise drawn by four horses.

Via-Reggio - - - miles 19—hours 6%
Pietra-Santa - - - - 6 - - ’ 1%
Massa - - - .. - - 7 - - 1%
Carrara - - - - - - 5 - .. 1%

Route, en Voilurier, from Rome to Florence, through Perugia,
wilh an English coach, drawn byfour mules.

Monti-rosi - - - hours 7

Civita-Castellana - - - 3%

Vine ofNarm' - — - - §

Terni - - - - - - - 3—:-

Spolcto - - - - \ - - 5% Between this town and Foligno,
to ascend the mountain of La
Somma, we had two oxen in
addition to our mules.

Foligno - - - ~ — - 4%

Perugia - - - - - - 5% To ascend the mountain on

which Perugia stands we had
two oxen in addition to our

mules.
T orricel/a - - - - — 4%
Camuscia - - - - - 6
Arezzo - - - - - - 5%
San-Giovanni - - — - 6%
Firenze - - — - - - 7

It is deemed unwholesome to travel from Florence through
Perugia to Rome from the time when the great heats com-

 

CHAP. VI. ITALY—ROUTES. 153

mence till after the autumnal rains have fallen: and it is almost
equally unwholesome to travel from Rome through Siena to
Florence, during the great heats*.

Route, en Voiturier, from Florence through Siena to Rome, with
an English post-chaise drawn by three horses.

Poggihonzi - - - hours 7 First day’s journey.

Siena - - - - - - - 4

Buonconvento - - '- - 4 -

S. Quirico - ~ - - - - 3 Second day’s journey.

La Scala' - - - - - - 3%

Radicofani - - - - - 3%

T orricelli - - - - - - 2% Third day’s journey.

S. Lorenzo-Nuovo - - - 3%

Bolsena - - - - - - 2 From S. Lorenzo Nuovo hither
the road lies on to the mar-

. gin of the Lake of Bolsena;

the air of which has been al-
ready mentioned as unwhole-
some.

ﬁIonteﬁascone - - - - 3% Fourth day’s journey.

Viterbo - - - - - - 2% I

Monterosi - - - - - 7 Fifth day’s journey.

Roma - - - - ~ - 7

Route, en Voiturier, from Rome to Naples, with an English post-
chaise drawn by three horses.

Velletri — - - - hours 6 First day’s journey.
Terracina - - - - - 9% Second day’s journey.
Fondi - - - - - - 2

S. Agata - - - - - - 6 Third day’s journey.
Capua - - - - - - 3%

Naples - — - - - - 3%

' Persons who wish to see the Cascade of Temi, and avoid sleeping at Torri-
cella, where the inn is comfortless, should stop the ﬁrst night at Cz'oita-Cas-
tellana—the second at Terni—the third at Spoleto—the fourth at Perugia—the
ﬁfth at Camuscz‘a, and the sixth at S. Giovanni,- whence to Florence is little
more than a morning-drive.

154- APPENDIX. CHAP. v1.

On returning from Naples to Rome, British Travellers must
‘ have passports from their own Ambassador in the ﬁrst-named
city, countersigned at the Police-Ofﬁce, and also by the Roman
Consul: and it is likewise advisable for persons who travel in
their own carriage to endeavour to obtain from the British
Consul-General at Rome, a la'scia passare for the Porta di San-
Giovanni, in the last-named city.

Route from Florence, through Bologna, Venice, Vienna, Prague,
and Dresden, to Hamburg *.

F onte-Buona

Cafaggiolo ‘

.Monte- Carelli

Covigliago

Filigare

quano

Pianoro

Bologna

Capodargine

Malabergo

Ferrara

Polesella

Rovigo

Monselice

Padova

Dolo

F nsina

Venice, by water 5 miles; and thence by water to Mest-re,
5 miles.

1% T reviso - - - - - Principal inn, LaPosta.

1% Conegliano

1% Sacile

1-}: Pordenon -|~.

...,_....

NIH NIu

NIH

i—Ih—l-L—IN—INHHHF‘I-H—H
NIH

NIH NIH NIH

" See, under GERMANY, the price of post-horses in that country.
1- Travellers who take the Kldgenfurt road go from Pordenon to S. Paternio-n ,~
crossing. previous to their arrival at the latter place, the Tagliammtu; and then

proceeding to

Villach . . . posts 1 f;
V eldcn . . . . l '
Klagenfurt l

 

CHAP. VI. ITALY—ROUTES. 155

1% Codroipo
1% Udine
1% Nogaredo
2 Goertz
l Cerm'cza
1 lVippach
1 Prewald
l Adelsberg - - - - See, under “ Germany,” the route
from Vienna to Trieste.
l Lasse
l 06er—Lagback
Laybach - - - - - See, under “ GERMANY,” the
route from Vienna to Trieste.
1% Potpetsclz
1 S. Oswald
l Franz
1% Cilli
1% Ganno‘witz
l Freistrifz
l Alahrburg - - — - See, under “ GERMANY,” the
route from Vienna to Trieste.
1% Ehrenlzaussen
l Lebering
l Kahlsdmf
1 Gratz - - - — - - See, under “ GERMANY,” the
route from Vienna to Trieste.
]% Pegau
l Redelstein
1 Bruck on the ﬂIuIzr
l I‘Ioerzlzgfen
l Krieglach
S. Veit . . . . l
Friesach . . . . 1%
lVeumm-clc . . . . l
Unsmarck . . . . 1%
Judenberg . . . 1%
Mtz'ttegﬁeld . . . . l
Gmubath . . . . l
Leoben I
Bruck l

HM “l”

1?:
1

M oerzuschlag
Schott'wein
Neulcz'rcken
Neustadt

N eudmf
Vienna \
Enzersdog'f
Sfoclcerau
Malebern
H ola 6mm:
Jezelsdmf
Znaim

F regmersdorf
Budwz'tz
Sch elletau
Stannern
Iglau
Steclcen

T eutsckbro dt
Steinsdmf
Benelmu

C zasl au
Kolz'n
Planian
Bélzm-broa’
Bich owz'tz
Prague

Sa rzedo/clu/c
Schla n
Budin
Lobos ftz

A ussig
Peterswald
Z ehist
Dresden
Meissen
Stauc/zz'tz
W ernsd on?
W urtzen

' APPENDIX.

CHAP. VI.

 

CHAP. VI.
1% Leipzig -

1% Landsberg
2 Col/zen
1% Kalbe
1-:— Magdeburg
2 Burgslall
2 Stendal
1% Osterdurg
1 Arendsee
I Lcnzen
Lubten
Boitzenburg
Escheburg

% Hamburg.

n
M» «Mt-1 NIH

l-llQD-l

——

125 posts.

ITALY—ROUTES. 1:)

A

7

- See under “ GERMANY,” the route

from Hamburg to Leipzig.

Route ‘ ﬁ'om Florence, through Illantua, and by the T yrol, to

Cux/zaven.

9 Bologna - - - - - See the last route.

1;}: Samoggg
1% Modena‘

1% Carpi
l Novi
2% S. Benetetto
2-5: Mantua -

- This city, which contains about

16,000 inhabitants, iswatered
by the Mincio, anciently IVIz'n-
cius ; and, owing to inundations
occasioned by that river, very
unwholesome during summer.
The Cathedral here was built
after the design of Giulo R0-
mano, who painted its ceiling
and tribuna; and has likewise
enriched Mantua with more of
his works. Not far hence stands
the Village of Pietola, formerly

158 APPENDIX. CHAP. VI.

called Andes, and the birth-
place of Virgil. The principal
inn at Mantua is La Pasta.

 

l Roverbella

l Vilquranca

1?; Verona

1-,1: Volarni

1 Peri

l Halla - ~ - - - - Inn, La'Corona.

1% Roveredo- - - -_ _ This town was anciently called
Roboretum: its principal inns
are La Rosa and La Corona.

1 Caliani

1 Trent - - - - - - From Verona hither the road fol-
lows the course of the Adige.
Trent, anciently called T ride/z—
tum, is placed in a delightful
valley, at the base of the Alps, 5
between Italy and Germany. “
Its Cathedral, a ﬁne Gothic /
ediﬁce, contains an excellent
Organ; and beyond the Gate
of S. Lorenzo ia magniﬁcent
Bridge thrown over the Adige.
The principal inn here is L’H6-
tel d’Europe.

: S. Michel

3% Neumarc/c

l Bransol

1 Botzen - - - - - - Best inn, The Post-house.

l Teutschen

J 1 Kolman
\ 1 Brixen

1 Ober-Mittwald

1 Storzingen

1 Brenner

l Steinack

1 Schonberg

1 Inspruck - - - - - This city, the capital of the Tyrol,

and supposed to contain 10,000

CHAP. vx. ITALY——INSPRUCK—-AUGSBURG, &c. 159

inhabitants, is watered by the
river Inn, anciently called
ﬁlms; and its Lyceum and
Casz‘le merit notice. The best
Hotels here are The Golden
Eagle, The Golden Lion, and
The Rose.
Zirl
Barhis
Nassereith
Lermos
% Relti
Fiissen
Saumunster
Schwwhhruck
Schwahdiissen
Hurlach
Augsburg - - - - Principal inns, The Three 11100719,
and The White Lamb. See,
under “ GERMANY,” the route
from Frankfort to Augsbura.

44H

u—ai—Ij—Iy—Ip-Ip—In—an—h—IHF-I

NIH

Illetlingen

Donawait

Nordlingen

Dunchelsphul

Creilsheim

Blazgfelden

ﬁlergentheim

Bischqfheim

\Vurtzburg. - - - - Principal inn, The Hotel of Fran-r

._._ conia. See, under “ GERMANY,"

69 posts. the route from Vienna to
Ostend.

Carlstadt, German miles - - 3*

Hamelburg - - - - - - 3

NIN NIH NlH top-q

NIH NIH

—H_—AH-—‘H_H

H|H

" In upper and lower Saxony, Brandenberg, Hesse, 8:0. Post-masters charge
by the mile, and not per post. Four English miles and a half make about one
German mile.

1§O APPENDIX. CHAP. v1.

Bruckenhau
Fulda - - - - - -
Hiingfeld - - - - - -
Vacha - - - - - -
Berlca - - - . - - -’

 

2 Eisenach

2 Liderbach

2 Bisckkausen
3

Helsen
1% Cassel - - - - - Principal inn, The Hé'tel d' Angle-
‘ terre. See “under GERMANY,”
the route from Frankfort to
Munster.
2 Muna’en
3 Gottingen - - - - See, under “ GERMANY,” the
I route from Hanover to Got-
tingen.
2 Nordheim
2 Eimbelc
3 Bruggen
2 Dia—Wiese Q
2 Hanover - - - - - See, under “ GERMANY,” the
route from Brunswick to Hano-
ver.

‘2 Hanstade
2% Hademsdmf

 

 

2' W alsrode
3 Rotenburg
3 Closter— See'ven
3 Bremervd'hrde
3 Bederlcesa
1% Nauen’wald
2% Cuxhaven.

49 posts.

The road through the Tyrol, from Trent to Inspruck, was
once excellent; and is still good; though it has been, of late

 

CHAP. VI. ITALY-~ROAD THROUGH THE TYROL, PASSPORTS. 161

years, injured by the heavy cannon and artillery waggons which
have passed over it. The views in this country are picturesque,
beautiful, and sublime: and where the road quits the plains of
Italy to ascend the Rhoetian Alps, are two gigantic and extra-
ordinary rocks, which seem to have been severed by the hand
of Nature for the purpose of aﬂbrding a passage to the Adige;
whose graceful sinuosities are a material embellishment to every
scene in which they present themselves.

Route, en ooiturier, from Rome, through Florence and Illilan, by
the Simplon, to Geneva,- and over the Jum Alps to Poligng,
Dg'jon, .Melun, Paris, and Boulogne *.

No British subject, who intends going by the above-named
route to England, should leave Rome without being provided
with a passport from the British Consul-General; which pass-
port should be countersigned ﬁrst at the Police-Ofﬁce, then by
the Ambassador of Austria and Tuscany, and lastly by the
French Ambassador.

From Rome to Boulogne the time employed in travelling is
about thirty-two days, with a light English post-chaise, not
heavily laden, and drawn by three strong horses.

First day - - - Posts 4-1- Baccano and Roncz'glz'one.
Second day - - Posts 5 Vz'teroo and San-Lorenzo nuooo.
Third day — - Posts 6% Badz'cqﬁzni and San-Quirico.

At Acquapendente, the next post
to S. Lorenzo nuovo, Travellers
are obliged to show their pass-
ports, and to pay three pauls
per passport at the Police-
Ofﬁce there. At the Custom-
house on Radicofani Travellers
usually pay from three to six
pauls, according to the number

' So little care is now taken of the Simplon-road, that I would advise Travel-
lers neither to attempt leaving not entering Italy, by this route, sooner in spring
than June, not later in autumn than October. A

App-l M

162

Fourth day Posts

Posts

Fifth day -

Sixth day - Posts
Seventh day Posts
Eighth day - - Posts
Ninth day - - Posts
Tenth day Posts

Eleventh day - Posts 42,!-
Twelfth day - - Posts 4%
Thirteenth day - Posts 6%

APPENDIX. CHAP. VI.

of their trunks, for having them
plumbed, and thus secured from
examination in the Tuscan
State.

2% Montarom' and Siena.
If luggage be not plumbed/it is

ﬁxamined on going into Siena,
by the Roman gate.

5 Barbarino and Florence.
On entering the latter city Tra-

vellers usually give a few pauls
to the Custom-house Ofﬁcers.
The Aquila Nera is the inn
usually resorted to by Vettu-
rini.

La Maschere and Pietremala.
Poggioli and Bologna.

5 Modena and Illarsaglia.

4n Parma and San—Donino.

4% Piacenza and Casal-Pusterlengo.
Beyond Piacenza, on the oppo-

site side of the Po, is a Custom-
house where trunks, and even
the inside of carriages undergo
a strict examination; but where
nothing appears to be con-
sidered as contraband, except
silks, and other wearing apparel
not made up. It is advisable to
have luggage plumbed here.

Melegnano and AIilan.

Cascina and Sesto-Calende.
Fariolo and Vogogna.

Travellers (if the weather be fa-

vourable) usually send their
carriages empty from Sesto
to Fariolo; hiring, for them-
selves, at Sesto, a boat, which
costs a Napoleon, [Juana—mane

 

CHAP. vx. ITALY—ROUTES, &c. 163

Fourteenth day — Posts 6%
Fifteenth day - Posts 6

Sixteenth day - Posts 8%
Seventeenth day- Posts 6%
Eighteenth day - Posts 8%
Nineteenth day - Posts 4%

to the Boatmen inclusive; and
which proceeds ﬁrst to Arona,
next to the Borromean Islands,
and then to Farioloi.

Domo d’Ossola and Simplon;

Brzgg.

Tom-temagne and Sion.

Illartz'gng/ and S. Alaurice.
S. Gingoux and Thonon.
Geneva.

Twentieth day - Posts 741 Gem and Morez.

Travellers are obliged to have

their passports signed at Gex:
and at the French Custom-
house between 'Gex and Morez
trunks are completely unpacked
and rigorously examined; as
likewise are the insides of car-
riages : nothing, however, seems
to be considered as contraband
by the searchers here, except
wearing apparel, not made up,
Roman pearls, and Geneva
watches andtrinkets for sale.
At Morez trunks, &c. are again
examined.

Twenty-ﬁrst day Posts - 7 Champagnole andPoligny.

Twenty-second day Posts 6:}
Twenty-third day - Posts 6%
Twenty-fourth day Posts 7%

On arriving at Poligny Travellers

are obliged to deliver up their
passports at the Sous-Préfec-
ture; whence they are forwarded
to Paris; while new passports
(the expense of which is ﬁfty
sous each) are substituted for
those left at the Sous-Pre-
fecture.

Mont-sous- Vamlrey and Auxonne-
Dijon and Pant-de-Pany.
Vitteaux and Rouvrag.

312

164- APPENDIX. CHAP. VI.

Twenty-ﬁfth day- - Posts 8% Lucy—le-Bois and Auxerre.
Twenty-sixth day.- Posts 7%— Joigny and Sens.
Twenty-seventhday Posts 8 Montereau and IlIelun. Inn at
the former town, The Lion d'Or,
and bad; at the latter, The H6-
tel de France, and very com-
fortable. Montereau is a large
town, watered by the Yonne
and Seine; but much injured
in its appearance, by the bridges
thrown over these rivers, hav-
ing been nearly destroyed by
the merciless hand of war. The
hill above Montereau commands
a ﬁne view of the Yonne and
Seine.
Twenty-eighth day Posts 5% C/zarenton and Paris.
The road from Fossard, through
Melun, to Paris, contains less
pavement than does that through
Fontainbleau; but is more hilly,
and not so pleasant. The mode
of proceeding, with respect to
passports at Paris, has been a1-
‘ ready mentioned.
Twenty-ninth day - Posts 8% Beaumont and Beauvais.
Thirtieth day ------ 7% Granvilliers and Airaines.
Thirty-ﬁrst day - - Posts 7% Nouvion and ﬁlontreuil.
Thirty-second day - Posts 4% Boulogne. This is a handsome
town; in the vicinity of which
there are several villas, chieﬂy
tenanted by English families:
and here, likewise, is a Pro-
testant School for young La-
dies, kept by Mrs. and Miss
Dowling.
It has been already mentioned,
that the passage from Boulogne
to Dover is, generally speaking,

 

CH AP. v1. ITALY—ROUTES, &c. 165

accomplished in less time than

from Calais to Dover: and Tra-

vellers who go to the H6tel de

Londres, at Boulogne, and em-

bark from that inn, are charged
_ as follows.

Breakfast, per head, francs two—
dinner, francs four—beds, for
one Master, and one Servant,
francs four—embarking one car-
riage, francs sixteen—clearance
of ditto, and luggage, francs
twelve—permit, francs two—
passport, francs two—porters,
from three to six francs, ac-
cording to the quantity of lug-
gage—Commissary (who exo-
nerates Travellers both from
trouble and expense at the Cus-
tom-house), francs ten.

The new London Hotel at Dover
is a good inn; and the Com-
missary there charges ten and
six-pence for getting an English
carriage, with the luggage be-
longing to it, out ofthe packet,
and then clearing them at the
Custom-house : but, British Tra-
vellers, who design landing at
Dover, should be careful not to
bring with them a single article
which pays duty, if they would
wish to avoid detention, fatigue,
and needless expense.

I travelled from Rome to Boulogne in my own landaulet,
drawn by three horses belonging to the Roman Padrone di Vet-
ture, Balzani; and I paid for myself, another Lady, and two
Servants, an hundred Louis-d’ors, buona-mano inclusive; toge-
ther with one Louis and a half per day, whenever I chose to

166 APPENDIX. CHAP. VII.

rest. Balzani engaged to defray the expense of barriers and
toll-bridges; to furnish extra horses whenever needful; to pro-
vide us with two meals a day, a sitting-room, and four good beds
every night during the journey; and likewise during days of
rest; and also to have taken us on to Calais, had we desired it;
which engagement was so punctually fulﬁlled by his Postillion,
who drove me, that I gave him three Napoleons as a present *.

From Rome I took with me as many Louis-d’ors as served to
pay Balzani; and, as many Napoleons as I was likely to want for
other expenses; and this proved an economical measure; be—
cause there is no agio upon gold at Rome.

 

CHAPTER VII.
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

VENICE, MILAN, VIENNA, &c.

Passports—[Woneg of the Imperial T erritories—Banbers’ ac-
counts— Vienna bank-bills—Prz're of Post-horses, 5‘s. in the
Austrian-German D0mini0ns—1Uost proﬁtable moneg/ Travel-
lers can lakefront T nscang to Germany—Persons going from
Tuscany to Venice sbonld have Meir baggage plumbed at Flo-
rence Fees to Custom-house Qﬂcers at Bologna and Venice—-
Price of Apartments at Petrillo’s, and other Hotels—of dinner
-—of a Gondola—lVages of a I’alet-de-Place—Articles best
worth purchasing—Departure of Letter-Coz(rierS—Z\Iilan——
Lodging-12ouses—Hotels—Job carriages—Hackney coaches—
Valets—de-Place—Boxes at La Scala—Arrz'val and departure
of Letter C ourz‘ers— V [ennui—Pound u‘eigbt—Braccio—szff
blanc, a good Hotel—table d’Hbte belonging to it—Prz'ce of

'* Balzani also paid the tax now levied in France upon foreign Voiturins, namely,
ﬁve sous per horse or mule, at every post-house, except those where Voituriers stop
to breakfast, dine, or sleep.

CHAP. VII‘ \ AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 167

apartments—(f dinner at a table d’Héte—qf dinner at a Re-
staurateur’s—Tahle d’Ho'te at Le Cigne—H’ages of a Valet-
de-Place—Price per night of one bed-room at an inn—Hackney
coaches—Sedan chairs—Illedical JlIen—Shops—Articles best
worth purchasing, and their prices—Expense of going into the
Partérre at the Opera-house— Usual price ofa hox— Travellers
advised to go post from V iemza to Dresden—Arrival and de-
parture of Lelter-Couriers—Diligence—Prague—Articles hest
worth purchasing—Wages of a Valet-de-Place—Price of a
J 01) carriage—Hachney coaches.

No Foreigner is allowed to enter the dominions of the Em-
peror of Austria, without exhibiting a passport, signed by an
Austrian Ambassador.

ﬂIoneg (f the Imperial Territories.

Sovrana, pauls 67%.

Ducat, ﬂorins 41.

Crown, or piece of two ﬂorins and sixteen kréutzers.

Piece of kre'utzers 34.

Ditto of kréutzers 18.

Ditto of kréutzers 17.

Ditto of one paul, or kréutzers 12.

Ditto of kréutzers 10.

Ditto of kréutzers 5.

Ditto of groschen 1, or kr'eutzers 3.

Ditto of kréutzers I.

An imperial sequin, and a ducat, generally are synonymous :
sometimes, however, an imperial sequin is only four ﬂorins and
thirty kréutzers: other sequins are four ﬂorins and twenty-eight
kréutzers. The convention-dollar passes for two ﬂorins through-
out Germany. '

Bankers’ accounts are kept in ﬂorins. It is generally difﬁcult
in Germany, to procure much gold or silver, without paying an
agio for it; but the Vienna bank-bills, many of which are only
ﬁve ﬂorins each, pass current every where throughout the im-
perial Territories, and are always readily changed into silver.

Price of Post-horses in the Austrian-German Dominions.

The price of draught-horses throughout the Austrian Do-

168 APPENDIX. CHAP. v11.

minions, and other parts of Germany, is ﬁxed in the ditl'ere t
monies of the reSpective countries.

A German post is, generally speaking, about two German
miles.

In Austria and Bohemia draught-horses are charged at thirty-

ﬁve kre'utzers each, per mile: and the legal claim of Postillions
is as follows:

Single post. Post and a huff: Double post.
No.0f horses. Florins. Kr'éutzers. Florins. Kr'éutzers. Florins. Kr'e'utzers.
2 ...... 0 30 ...... 0 45 ...... l 0
3 ...... o 45 ...... 1 ' o ...... 1 30
4 ...... l O ...... l 30 ...... 2 O
6 ...... l 30 ...... 2 l 5 ...... 3 O

A German Postillion, like those of France and Italy, expects
more than his legal claim; and seems to think he has a right to
as much per post for himself, as Post-masters charge per horse:
indeed, if he drive three horses, he expects to receive, per post,
one third more than the price for each horse.

The expense of greasing wheels, if grease be found by the
Traveller, is ten kreutzers ; if not, seventeen kre'utzers; and Tra-
vellers are only obliged to pay for greasing their wheels at every
third post. ‘

A carriage conveying but two persons, and but one trunk, is
allowed to travel with two horses only: and carriages with four
inside places, and two trunks, are seldom compelled to travel with
more than four horses.

In the Empire, the price ofevery draught-horse is from thirty-
seven and a half to forty-ﬁve kre'utzers per German mile; and
the price for greasing wheels twelve kre'utzers.

A Caléc/ze de Paste, furnished by a Post—master, costs, in the
Empire, twenty kre'utzers per station.

Persons who intend travelling from Rome through Florence,
to Venice; and thence to Vienna, or any other part of Ger-
many under Austrian government, should provide themselves, at
Rome, with as many Napoleons as they may be likely to want
between that city and the conﬁnes ofGermany: and they should
also endeavour to purchase of the money-changers at Florence,
sovranas, and imperial sequins, sufﬁcient for the latter part of

 

CHAP. VII. AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS—VENICE. 169

tgeir journey. A sovrana at Florence may usually be purchased
for sixty-two or sixty-three pauls; and, throughOut the Au—
strian dominions, is, generally speaking, worth sixty-seven pauls
and ahalf. An imperial sequin usually costs about twenty-one
pauls at Florence; and is, generally speaking, worth twenty-
three, throughout the Austrian dominions. Tuscan sequins are
worth twenty-three pauls at Venice; and Francesconi ten pauls
and a half. The paul at Venice is called a livre, and divided
into twenty sous; and the ﬂorin (equal in value with about two
shillings English), is divided into sixty kréutzers. From the
commencement of Saxony to the town of Hamburg, Napoleons
are the most proﬁtable money for Travellers.

Persons going from Tuscany to Venice should have their bag-
gage plumbed at Florence; which operation usually costs about
ﬁve pauls. At the gate of' Bologna the Custom-house Oﬂicers
expect a present of ﬁve pauls per carriage: at Ferrara, on
quitting the town, Travellers are expected to make the same
present; and again, on crossing the Canal Bianca.

VENICE.

The best apartments at Petrillo’s, and other Hotels, cost from
ﬁfteen to twenty livres a day: and dinner is usually Charged at
eight or ten livres a head.

The price ofa Gondola, buona—mano inclusive, is ten livres a
day, and contains in its cabin four persons, who may be as well
secured from rain as in a close carriage; these boats being con-
veniently ﬁtted up with glasses, Venetian—blinds, &c. They
likewise are furnished with handsome lanthorns at night.

The wages of' aValet-de-place is from five to six livres a day.

The articles best worth purchasing at Venice are, gold chains,
sold by weight, according to the price of gold—wax candles,
which usually cost about four livres the pound—Mocha coffee—
chocolate—remarkably good paste, made of melon seeds (for
washing the skin) —glass—b00ks—and maps. r

Departure que/ter Couriers.

The English Courier sets out every Wednesday and Friday
evening; the Couriers of other countries every Saturday eveninor.

170 APPENDIX. CHAT), v11.

MILAN. .

Lodging-houses in this city are numerous, and not very high
priced. .Hotels are expensive. A job carriage usually costs
from fifteen to sixteen francs per day; and the price of Hack-
ney coaches is the same as at Paris. A Valet-de-Place, if hiredfor
a very short time, and expected to act as a Cicerone, commonly
demands ﬁve francs per day: and the expense of a good box,
large enough to accommodate four persons, at La Scala, on
Sundays, seldom amounts to less than from twenty—ﬁve to thirty
francs, entrance-money inclusive; which is one franc and a half
per head; but, on other days, a box may frequently be hired
for ten francs. The price per head for admittance to the Par-
terre is one franc and a half.

Arrival and departure quetter-Couriers.

Letters from Great Britain may be expected to arrive
on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Letters set out for
England on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, at noon.

VIENNA.

The pound-weight at Vienna is eighteen ounces; and the
common measure, called a braccio, is somewhat longer than that
of Florence.

At the Bazufblmzc, one of the best Hotels in Vienna, there is
a good Table d’HOte; and at this Hotel I paid for six rooms,
and dinner for three persons, linen, bread, beer, and table wine*
inclusive, eighteen ﬂorins per day.

The price of dinner at a Table d’Hdte, varies from thirty-four
kr'e'utzers to a crown per head; and the price of dinner at a
Restaurateur’s, varies from ﬁve kréutzers to one ﬂorin per head.

The Table d’IIOte at Le Cigne is a good one.

A Valet-de-Place usually expects from thirty—four kréutzers
to one ﬂorin per day.

* Travellers should endeavour to procure old Austrian wine, which is more
wholesome than are the common wines of Hungary. The Germans, if report speak
true, frequently put some poisonous metallic substance into their white wines, par-
ticularly those of the Rhine.

 

CHAP. v11. GRRMANY.—VIENNA. 171

It is seldom possible at Vienna, to procure a bed-room at any
inn for less than one ﬂorin per night. There are in this city, ex-
cellent Hackney coaches to be hired by the hour; and good se-
dan chairs, into which the sick cannot be admitted. There like-
wise are several good physicians and surgeons.

The shops at Vienna are richly furnished; and the articles
best worth purchasing seem to be, eyder-down, black lace, furs,
household linen, Bohemian kerseymere, and broad cloth. Eyder-
down is usually sold at nine ﬂorins the pound. Broad black lace
costs from three to ﬁve pauls the braccio; kerseymere, if dyed
in grain, three ﬂorins and three quarters the braccio ,- if not so
dyed, three ﬂorins and one quarter only.

The usual price in the partérre at the opera-house is one
ﬂorin; but, upon extraordinary occasions, two; the usual price
of a box one ducat; but, upon extraordinary occasions, two.

It is not pleasant to travel en voiturz'er from Vienna to Dres-
den; because the Post-masters between the above-named cities
are so spiteful to Voiturier‘s that the latter can neither procure
extra horses, nor other necessary accommodations on the road.

Arrival and departure ofLetter-Couriers.

ﬁlonday morning arrives the post from Italy, Spain, France,
and Great Britain.

Tuesday morning from Saxony, and the northern countries.

Thursday morning from Italy.

Saturday morning from Saxony.

Monday qﬂernoon, at three o’clock, goes the post to Italy.

Wednesday evening to Saxony, and the northern countries;
Spain, France, and Great Britain.

Thursday evening to Italy.

Saiura’ay evening to Spain, France, and Great Britain.

The posts of the Imperial German Dominions arrive and
depart daily.

A Diligence sets out for Presburg at eight o’clock every
morning; another, for Italy, at half past seven every Monday
morning; and another, for Prague and Dresden, at nine o’clock
every Tuesday morning. One place in a German Diligence
usually costs about thirty kréutzers per German mile.

172 APPENDIX. CHAP. vm.

PRAGUE.

 

The articles best worth purchasing here are, Silesia lawns,
table-linen, Bohemian lustres, and other kinds of glass.

The wages usually demanded by a valet-de-plnce is thirty-
four kréutzers a day; and the price of a job-carriage two ﬂorins
and thirty kréutzers a day.

There are good Hackney coaches in this city.

 

CHAPTER VIII.

DRESDEN, HAMBURG, BERLIN, &c.

ﬁloney of Saxony—Price of Post-horses—Dresden—Pound—
weight—Common measure—Price of apartments in the prin-
cipal Hotels—Price ofa’inner at Hotels, and at the houses of
Restaurateurs— W'uges of a Valet-de-place—Price quob car-
riages, Sedan chairs, wine, and bottled beer—Articles best
worth purchasing—Arrival and departure quetter- Couriers—-
Expense (ffr'anking letters for England—Dir'igence—Ham-
burg—Along, Bankers’ accounts, &c.—Pound-weight—Price
per headjbr dinner at a table d’H6te—Price qularet—Cam-
brick the ar/icle best worth purchasing—Price of Post-horses,
(Soc: in the Dominions ofPrussia, Hesse, Brunswick, and Hano-
ver—Roads in northern German 9— W ienerwagens—Markt-
schi s-——Private vessels— Vogagefrom Frankfort on the hiein
t0 Col'ogne— Ditto from Razisbon to Vienna—Route from
Hamburg to Berlin—population (fthat city, and objects best
worth notice—Theatres, clubs, bra—Promenades—Hutels, and
Lodging-houses— IV ages g” a Valet-de-place-—J0b-carriages—-
Hackney coaches—Price ofdinner at a Restaurateur’s—En-
virons—Routefrom Hamburg to Leipsic—Population ofLeipsic
—0!3jects best worth no!ice—Promenades—Prices at the Ger-
man Theatre—Best Inns—Fairs—Pricev at Inns—Wages of a
Valet-de-place—Job carriages, and Hacks—Routefrom Liz'psic
to Dresden—from Leipsic through Gotha to Frankfort on the

CHAP. VIII. ‘ GERMANY.—-DRESDEN, HAMBURG, &c.

173

Mein—from Leipsic to Brunswick—from Brunswick to Hana-
ver—from Hanover to Gottingen—from Leipsic to Danzich—
from Franlfort on the AIein to Augsburg—from Augsburg to
Constance, Schafhusen, and Basie—from Augsburg to Rotis-

hon—from Rutishon to .Munich—from Ratishon to Pragu

e—

and from Vienna through Ratishon and Brussels to Ostend—
Pachetsfrom Colchester to Ostena’; from Ostend to Harwich ;

andfrom Ostena’ to Illargate—Roulefrom Fran/ffort on

the

.Mcin through Cassel to Munster—Voyage on the Rhine from
Magence to Cohlentz—Excursion from Goltingen to Harz—
German Baths— Carlsbad ——E.2:penses there — Pyrmont — Ex-

penses there—Spa—Erpenses there—Route from Vienna

Carlsbad, through Eger and Zwoa’a—from Hanover to 1’

to
.9"

mont—rfrom Hamburg to Pgrmont—J‘ronz Brussels, through
Air—la-Chapel/e and Liege, to Spa—from Vienna to Baaa’en—
r from Vienna to Preshurg—fom T eusch Altenhurg to Bel-
grade—from Preshurg to Kaschau and T ohag—and from

Vienna to Trieste. ‘

.Moneg of Saxony.
Ducat - - - - - - — — - - - worth ﬂorins 4%
Crown, or convention dollar - - - - - - ﬂorins 2
Florin - — - - - - - - - - - - groschen 16
Half-ﬂorin - - - - -' - - ~ - - groschen 8
Quarter-ﬂorin - - - - - - - - — groschen 4
Piece of groschen two, marked - - - - - - “12”

that number of these pieces making one dollar *.

Piece ofgroschen one, marked - - - - - - “24”

that number of these pieces making one dollar.

Piece of half a grosch, marked - - - - - - “48’
that number of these pieces making one dollar.

Piece of three pfennings.

Piece of one pfenning.

7

Bankers’ accounts are ke t in dollars and roschen; the
P g

former being an imaginary coin, worth one ﬂorin and a half.
Spanish dollars do not pass here.

’ These are not convention dollars, but those in which Bankers‘ accounts
kept. ‘

are

.._.‘..k._ 1‘—

174 APPENDIX. CHAP.VIH.

Price of Post-horses, &c. in Saxony.

For every draught-horse the charge is ten groschen per
mile; and every postillion, driving three or four horses, has a
right to eight groschen. Couriers, whether travelling in a car-
riage or on horseback, pay twelve groschen a mile. Two per-
sons, if travelling in their own carriage, are obliged to take
three horses ; but, if travelling in a Post-master’s carriage, not
more than two horses. The charge for a Post-master’s car-
riage is four groschen per mile; and the charge for greasing
wheels from three to four groschen.

DRESDEN.

The pound-weight of Dresden is sixteen ounces; the aune,
or common measure, two feet; and the foot twelve inches.

The best apartments in the principal Hotels usually let for
one ducat per day; and dinner, in these hotels, is commonly
charged at one ﬂorin per head; though Travellers may be
tolerably well served at twelve groschen. Restaurateurs give
good dinners at eight groschen per head.

The wages of a Valet-de-place is one ﬂorin per day.

A job carriage, for the whole day, costs about three ﬂorins;
for the half day, two ﬂorins and four groschen.

The price of a Sedan chair, in the old Town, is two groschen
for going to any part of it; and two for returning: in the new
Town exactly double; and the chairmen charge one grosch
for every quarter of an hour, when they are kept waiting.

Wine of the country is usually charged at ten groschen per
bottle ;' and bottled beer at two groschen and six pfennings.

The articles best worth purchasing in this city are black and
white lace, which may be bought of the Lace-makers.

Arrival and departure (gfLetz‘er-Couriers.

Sunday afternoon arrive letters from Vienna, Prague, &c.; and
likewise from Great Britain, France, Holland, Hamburg,
Amsterdam, Belgium, Hanover, Brunswick, &c.

Tuesday morning From Italy, the T yrol, Switzerland, &c.

 

 

CHAP. VIII. GERMANY—HAMBURG—PRUSSIAN DOMINIONS. 171

Wednesday afternoon from Vienna, Prague, &c.

Thursday afternoon from Holland, Belgium, Hamburg, &c.

Sunday morning, at eight o’clock, the post goes to Hamburg,
with letters for Great Britain, &c.

Monday afternoon, at three o’clock, to Holland, and Belgium;
and at six to Prague, Vienna, &c.; Venice, Italy in general,
and Switzerland.

Wednesday, at noon, to Holland, France, Denmark, &c.

F riday, at one in the (Wernoon, to Prague, Vienna, &c.

Letters must be sent to the post one hour, and parcels two
hours, before the Courier sets out. Letters for Great Britain
pay eight groschen each.

Wednesday morning, at eight o’clock, the Diligence sets out
for Prague and Vienna; and Thursday morning, at the same
hour, for Hamburg.

HAMBURG.

Accounts are kept in marks and skillings ; a mark being from
sixteen to eighteen-pence, English, according to the exchange;
and a skilling the sixteenth of a mark. Convention-dollars do
not pass for quite two florins at Hamburg; no money being
current but that of Hamburg and Denmark.

The pound-weight is sixteen ounces.

Several of the Inns contain a T able d’Héle, at. which the
price, per head, for dinner, is from twelve skillings to two
marks.

Claret is good and cheap ; being usually sold at two marks a
bottle.

Almost every article of commerce may be purchased at Ham-
burg; but, though exempt from Port-duties, things in general
are dear, cambrick excepted.

PRUSSIAN DOMINIONS.

Persons who travel post usually pay ten groschen per Ger-
man mile for every draught-horse; and at Berlin one mile more
than the actual distance is charged, it being a post royal. The
\Vagenmeister, or Superintendant of post-carriages, has a right

176 . APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.

to four groschen at every post; and Postillions are entitled to
three groschen per mile. The price for greasing wheels is four
groschen in Capital Cities, and other large towns; but, in Vil-
lages, only two groschen.

A light carriage, containing only two places, is allowed to
travel with only two horses, provided it convey but one person
and one trunk: if it convey two persons, they must take three
horses; and carriages conveying three or four persons must
have four horses. Every Berlin, or carriage with four inside-
places, must have four horses; and, if it contain four per-
sons, ﬁve horses; but, if it contain from ﬁve to seven persons,
six horses are indispensable: and if, moreover, it be heavily
charged with baggage, Post-masters are authorised to put on
eight horses.

The price of a Caléclze d6 Posie, furnished by a Post-master,
is six groschen per station.

Postillions are obliged to drive one German mile an hour on
well-paved roads; one mile in an hour and a quarter on good
roads not paved; and one mile within an hour and a half where
the road is sandy. K

On quitting Berlin every Traveller should have a Passport
from Government ; which the Wagenmeister commonly pro-
cures. Travellers should likewise have their trunks plumbed.

HESSE.

Persons who travel post pay ten groschen per German mile
for every draught-horse; and for Couriers’ horses twelve gro-
schen. If the post be from two miles and a half to three miles
in distance, the postillion is entitled to eight groschen, provided
he drive three or four horses ; andhe is entitled to ten groschen,
provided there be six horses. If the length of the post be from
one mile and a half to two miles only, and the Postillion drive
three or four horses, he is entitled to six groschen; and pro-
vided there be six horses, he is entitled to eight groschen.

The legal claim of the Wagcnmeister at each station is two
groschen; and the charge for greasing wheels from three to
four groschen.

 

CHAP. VIII. GERMANY—BRUNSWICK—HANOVER. 177

BRUNSWICK.

Persons who travel post pay twelve groschen per German
mile for every draught-horse.

A Berlin conveying six persons, servants inclusive, together
with trunks not exceeding three quintals in weight, is allowed
to travel with only four horses. A post-chaise conveying four
persons, servants inclusive, is allowed to travel with only three
horses; and if it convey but three persons, it is allowed to travel
with only two horses.

HANOVER.

Persons who travel post pay twelve groschen per German
mile for every draught-horse.

A postillion who drives two or three horses is entitled to six
groschen; if he drive four horses, his claim is eight groschen;
and he is entitled to sixteen groschen provided there be six
horses: but, if a post be uncommonly long, namely, from four
to ﬁve miles in distance, he is entitled to seven groschen, pro-
vided he drive two or three horses; nine, ifhe drive four horses;
and eighteen, if there be six horses.

The IVagenmeister‘s claim is from three to six groschen per
post; and the expense of greasing wheels, from three to four
groschen.

In Hanover, the old louis passes for only four crowns and
sixteen groschen in paying either the post, or the tolls; but is
current for ﬁve crowns in paying for grease, Trin/rgeld (drink-
money), and expenses at inns. '

The roads in the north of Germany are, generally Speaking,
bad; and the mélange of territories is an obstacle to their im-
provement: moreover, the distances from place to place are not
determined with precision; and therefore Post-masters some-
times exact.

There is a kind of carriage, half open, and containing four
persons, to which, if it be not encumbered with much baggage,
Post-masters have no right to put more than two horses, except
in the Hanoverian territories. This carriage is called a VViener-
wagen.

App] N

178 APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.

The noble rivers which intersect Germany render travelling
by water practicable and pleasant; there being on many of these
rivers Marktschiﬂ's (a sort of Cache d’eau), which travel regu-
larly from city to city.

Private vessels likewise may be procured.

The voyage from Frankfort on the Mein to Cologne is de-
lightful ; as is that from Ratisbon to Vienna '.

Route from Hamburg to Berlin.

1% Eschenhurg

2 Boitzenhurg

1—71: Luhthen

2} Leuzen - - - — - This town is charmingly situated.
A ferry over the Elbe.

1% Perleberg

l Kleez/re

1 % K yritz
2 F ehrhellz'n
2 Boetzo

1% Berlin.

 

16% posts.

Berlin, the metropolis of Prussia, and one of the most Splendid
cities in Germany, is watered by the Spree, and supposed to
contain (including its garrison) 151,000 inhabitants. Some of
the objects best worth notice here are, The Ché'teau Royal—
Monhijou—the Royal Stables—the Arsenal, deemed the ﬁnest
building of its kind in Europe; its Court contains twenty-one
masks, representing Death, by Schluter; and the statue of
Frederick I is by Schluter and Jacobi.—The Italian Opera-
house, which contains ﬁve thousand spectators—the Royal Li-
hrary, built after the design of Frederick II—the buildings of
the Royal Academy—the Theatre and Churches in the Place de
Gens-d’armes—the Hdlel de Ville—the Bank—the Governor’s
Palace—l’Hdtel des Cadets—l’Hétel des Invalids—the Pa-

* A Cache d’eau goes every Sunday from Ratisbon, and arrives at Vienna in three
days, or three and a half. The passage-money, for a gentleman or lady, is a ducat;
and for a servant, a convention-dollar.

 

CHAP. VIII. GERMANY—BERLIN. 179

laces of Prince Henry, the Prince Royal, Prince Louis qurus-
sia, &c.—-the Cathedral—the Church of S. Hedewige—the
Church belonging to the Garrison, and containing four pictures
by Rode, which represent the death of four celebrated Prussian
VVarriors—the Church of S. Peter—the Church of S. JlIary, and
its Gothic Tower—the Church of S. Nicholas, remarkable for
its antiquity, paintings, and sculpture; and likewise, for the
monument of Pufl‘endorfF—the Churches of S. Sophia and S.
Dorothg , the latter of which contains the monument of Count
de Mark—the parochial Church—the Place de Guillaume, or-
namented with statues—the colossal equestrian statue of the
Elector F rederich- William, deemed the chef-d’aeuvre of Schluter
—the Pant-Royal—the magniﬁcent Brandenburg Gate, built after
the model of the Propylaaum at Athens—theporcelain Manufac§
tare—and the Iron F oumlerg.

To the Italian opera the audience are admitted gratis; Fo-
reigners being placed in the second and third row of boxes. At
the buffa-opera, and the German Theatre, the price for each
place in the ﬁrst row of boxes is sixteen groschen; in the second
row, twelve groschen; in the parquet, twelve groschen; in the
amphitheatre, eight groschen; and in the gallery, four groschen.

Clubs, called Resources, and the Fishery at Stralau, on the
24th of August, serve to diversify the amusements of this city.

The principal Promenades are, under the Linden trees—the
Place de Guillaume—the Place de Doehnhof—the Park—Le
Cercle—Bellevue—the Garden of the Royal School—and the
Coffee and Lemonade Gardens.

Here are three classes of Hotels, in the ﬁrst ofwhich maybe
placed La Ville de Paris—L’Aigle d’Or—La Ville de Rome—
Le Cerf d’Or—and L’H6tel a’e Russie*. A tariff, exhibiting
the prices at these hotels (which prices are ﬁxed by govern-
ment), is open to the inspection of every Traveller. Ready-
furnished lodgings are advertised in the newspaper; and the
rent of two rooms in a good situation is from eight to twelve
crowns per month.

The wages ofa Valet-de-Place is twelve groschen a day, pro-
vided he be kept no longer than eight o’clock in the evening:
and sixteen groschen if he remain beyond that hour.

* This is an excellent Inn, and contains a good Table d’HJ/r.
N 2

180 APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.

The price of a job carriage is two crowns a day ; and the fare
in a hackney coach from six to eight groschen, according to the
distance.

Restaurateurs charge for dinner from six to twelve groschen
per head.

The environs of Berlin contain several objects worth notice;
among which is Sans-Sauci; where the Gallery of Paintings ex-
hibits a sketch of Moses, by Rembrandt—Roman Filial Piety,
by Guercino—the four Evangelists, by Vandyck—and Venus
attired by the Graces, together with the Judgment of Paris, by
Rubens.

Persons who like water-parties, may go in boats to Treptow,
Charlottenburg, &c.

Route from Hamburg to Leipsic. ,

§ Lenzen
§ Arena’see

Osterburg
% Stendal - - - — - The Calhedral of S. Nicholas merits

notice.

1% Burgstall
l Magdeburg - - - - This city is supposed to contain
36,000 Inhabitants. Best Ho-
tels, L’Auberge d’Allmer, and
Le Roi de Prusse.

l Salze

l K albe

l i Coetlzen
l Zoerbig

1 Landsberg
1% Leipzig.

 

20% posts.

This town is supposed to contain above 32,000 inhabitants.
The objects best worth notice are, T/tePleissenbourg—t/ze Pauli-
mzm—t/ze College of the Princes, and tlze Red College—the (Z71-
cient Arsenal—the H cite! dc Ville—the Cour d’Auerbac/e, in
Fair time—the Ext/zange—tlze College q/‘S. Thomas—the Manége

CRAP. vru. GERMANY—LEIPSIC, &c. 181

--the T heatre—t/ze Clmrches of S. Nicholas and S. T Izomas—
the House of Mr. Muller, which contains thirteen ceilings, by
Oeser—t/ze Esplanade—and the Public Libraries.

The Promenades are numerous and pleasant. The prices at
the German Theatre are, for a box in the ﬁrst row, Four crowns;
in the second row, three crowns; in the third row, eight bons-
groschen; and, for a place in the parterre, six bons-groschen;
unless it be Fair time, when something more is paid.

The three Fairs are held at Christmas, Easter, and Michael-
mas; and at these Fairs as many books are said to be sold yearly
as amount to 500,000 rix- dollars.

The principal 1nns are, L H6tel de Same, L’Hdtel de Bavz'ere,
and L’Ange Bleu.

The price of a front room, fuel inclusive, at an Inn, is one
ﬂorin per day ; and of a back-room, eight bons-groschen. The
wages of a Valet—de-Place is one ﬂorin per day; unless it be
during Fair time, when he expects a crown. Job carriages, and
common hacks may always be found before the Gates of S.
Pierre, and Grimma.

Leipsic will henceforth be memorable for having given its
name to one of the most important modern battles ever fought
—a battle in which near halfa million of men, commanded by
three Emperors, a King, and an Heir-Apparent to a throne,
were engaged during little less than an hundred hours—they
fought in a circle that embraced above ﬁfteen miles.

Route from Leipsic to Dresden.

1% Warzen - - - - - T he Cathedral here merits notice.
1 Wernstlmf

1 Stauclzitz

1% Meissen - - -‘ - - Best inn, Le Soleil d’Or.

1% Dresden.

 

6% posts.

Route from Leipsic through Gotha, to F ran/g‘brt on the Mein.

l Liitzen - - - - - Near this small town is the spot
on which Gustavus Adolphus

182

1 Weissenfcls

l Naumburg

l Aucrstadt -

1% Weimar
1% Erfurt - ~

1% Gotha - -

l

1-,} Eisenach -

APPENDIX. ~ CHAP. VIII-

perished ; and a stone marks
the spot where this hero’s body
was found.

Charles XII, being in the neigh-
bourhood of Lutzen, went to

visit the ﬁeld of battle; little

thinking, perhaps, that treag

Chery would soon destroy his
life, as it did that of his glorious
model, Gustavus.

The Castle here, and its Church

merit notice.

The Cathedral her~e merits notice.

Best inns, The Post—house, and
Le Chew]. The wine of this
neighbourhood resembles Bur-
gundy.

Between Naumburg and Auer-

stadt, the road traverses the
mountain of Koescn.

This city is enriched with a Uni-

versity.

The Inhabitants of Gotha are

estimated at 11,000. The Cha-
teau—the great Terrace—the
Arsenal—the churches called
Kloster and Neumarhts Kirchen
-—the English Garden—thepuh-
lie Library and that of the Sove-
reign—the Royal Collection of
Paintings, Syd—and the Gym-
nasium merit notice.

Best inns, Le Ne‘gre, and Le Gre-

lot d’Argent.

The road to Gotha is execrable

in wet weather.

- La Klemme, is a good inn. The

Castle of VVartbourg, which
stands on the summit of a hill

 

 

CHAP. VIII. GERMANY—FRANKFORT ON THE MEIN. ‘ 183

l Ber/ca - -
1 H’ach - -
1% Hung/”61d
1 F ulde - -
1 Neuhqf

i Schlh’chtern

l Saalmﬁnster

l Gelnhausen
1% Hanan —

l Frankfort.

20% posts.

in this vicinity, once served as
an asylum to Luther.

- A bad road from Eisenach to

Berka.

- Pavement from Berka hither.

- This city contains 12,000 inha-

bitants. The objects best worth
notice are, The Chateau—the
Cathedral—the Churches of S.
Boniface and S. Michael—the
Convent of S. Sauneur—the
Benedictin and Franciscan Con-
vents—the Porcelain Mannfac-
ture, and the Library belonging
to the University.

The celebrated Baths of Bruc-

kenau are near Fulde.

Best inns, The Post-house, and

Le Cigne. The wine of S.
J ohn’s mountain, in this neigh-
bourhood, is excellent, and sold
in sealed bottles out of the
Prince Bishop’s cellar.

- Le Soleil is a good inn.
- A pretty town. The Castle merits

notice.

The inhabitants of Frankfort are estimated at 43,000, be-
side near 7000 Jews, who live detached from the rest of the

people.

The objects best worth notice in this city are, the Cathedral
—the Church of S. Catherine—the Convent des Prédicateurs,
containing a celebrated Assumption, by Albert Durer—the H6-

184 APPENDIX. CHAP. vm.

tel de Vii/euthe Teutonic Palace—the Palace of the Prince of
T ham and Taxis—the Exchange—the Arsenals—the Foundery
—the H6tel-Dieu—the Maison deforce—the Hospital of S. Esprit
—the T heatre—and the Bridge, thrown over the Mein.

Inns, La Cour d’Angleterre—La Maison rouge—Le Cigne
blanc, &c.

Frankfort Fair is held twice a year; namely, at Easter, and
during the latter end of Summer.

Route from Leipsic to Brunswich.

1-1; Gros/tugel

1% Halle - - - - - - Inns, L’Anneau d’Or—Prince
Royal de Prusse—Lion d'Or.

Among the objects best worth no-
tice here are, the Cathedral, and
the University.

1% Konnern

1—71; Ascherslehen - — - - The Church. of S. Etienne—the
Public School—and the ruins
of the Chateau d’Ascanie, merit
notice.

1 Quedlinhurg — - - - The Chateau—the Library—and
the Promenade, called Le Bruhl,
merit notice.

1 IIa/herstmlt

1% Rohlum \

1% Brunswick.

1 1 posts.

Brunswick is supposed to contain 28,000 inhabitants. The
objects best worth attention in this city are, the Castle, called
Grauen Hof—the new Hotel de Ville—the JlIost-Haus, in the
Square, bef'oge which is an antique statue of a Lion—the Build-
ings of Carolirmm—t e Opera-house—the Cathedral—the Hos-
pitals—the Fountain, in the Place de Hagenmarht—the Church of
S. Nicholas, which contains two good pictures—the Churches of
S. Catherine and S. Andrew—the old H6tel de Ville—the royal
Collection of Natural History, Paintings, &c.—-and the Carolinum
Library.

«has»: :r

CHAP. VIII. GERMANY—HANOVER—GOTTINGEN. 185

Brunswick is famous for a sort of beer called Mumme.
‘ Best inn, L’Hé'tel d’Angleterre.
At VVolfenbuttel, near this city, there is a valuable Library;
and at the Chateau de Salza’alzlum a good collection of Pictures.

Route from Brunswick to Hanover.

1% Peine
1 Sebnde '
1 Hanover.

3% posts.

This city contains about 18,000 inhabitants; and the objects best
worth notice are the Clzurclz belonging to the C/Ldteau—tlie Opera-
lzousc—tlze royal Stables—the [liaison des états—the Arsenal—the
Illint—tke Cannon Foundery—t/ze ﬁlonurnent of W erl/zof; in the
public Cemetery—the Alonument ofLeibnitz—and the royal Li-
brary. The principal Promenades are, The Countess of Yar-
mouth’s Garden—Ellernreid \Vood—C ount Walmoden’s Garden
--and the drive to Herrnhausen, and Mont-Brillant.

Best inns, La T averne a'e Londrcs—Prince d’Eutin—and La
ﬁlaison a’e Strclitz.

Route from Hanover to Gottingen.

l T iedenwiesen - - - - This road is excellent.

] Bruggen

1% Einzbec/c

l Nora’lzeim - - - - A famous Organ in the parochial
Church.

1 Gottingen.

 

5 § posts.

This city contains near 8000 inhabitants. The objects best
worth notice are, the six Cburches-tlze Buildings qftlze Univer-
sity—tbe Observatory—the Lying-in Hospital—the anatomical
T beatre—the botanic Garden—tbe Manége, and the Library be-
longing to the University. This Library contains above 120,000
volumes; and is deemed the best in Germany.

18

is

Mi
3

l
l
l
l
l

l
l
l

9-.

_5" b
i J

6 APPENDIX. CHAP. vm.

Inns, La Couromze—Le Roi de Prusse, &c.
The environs of Gottingen are interesting; and especially so

the excursion to Harz.

Route from Leipsic to Dantzz'clc.

les.

Torgau - - - .-

% Heréberg
Ho/zenbuclcau
Luclcau
Lubben
% Liberosa
Beesc/zow
lelzlrose
% Frankfort on the Oder

2 Custrz'n.
2% Neudamm
3% Soldin
3‘} Pyritz
3 Stargard — \- - - - The Church ofS. Mary, in this

- The principal Church here con-

tains the Tomb of Lﬁther’s Wife.

This city contains 12,000 inha-

bitants; and among the ob-
jects best worth notice, are the
Churches ofS. [Mary and S. Ni-
cholas—the Chartreuse—the H 6-
tel de Ville—tile Casemes—the
Hé'tel Dieu—the Bridge—the
AIonument of Prince Leopold of
Brunswick, who was drowned
in the Oder, by attempting to
save the lives of others—and
the [Monument of Kleist, the
Poet.

There is a University here: and

among the best inns are, Les
trois Couronnes—L’Aigle noir

——and Le Soleil d’or.

town, merits notice. The best
inn is Les trois Couronnes, near
the Post-house.

‘ i

CHAP. VIII. GERMANY—DANTZICK, &c. 187

2% Mason;

3 Neugard

2% Plat/10w

2%: Pimzow‘

Leppin

Coerlz'n

Coeslin

Panhcnin

Schlavc

Stolpe , — - - - - Famous for the amber found in its

v1c1mty.

to»
M»

03
MH 4-IH -FD-4 M» NH

0305 (.0

03
NW

'Lupow
Goddentau
Neustaa’t

3 .
37 DantZIg. ,

(:1

(a)
q».

 

7 5} miles.

This city contains 48,000 inhabitants; and among the objects
best worth notice are, the Exchange—the Cathedral, which is one
of the ﬁnest churches in Europe—the Lutheran College—the
Hotel de V ilk—the Cour des Nobles—the Arsenal—and the Jan-
her-Garten.

Inns, La Maison Zlnglaise—Les trois N égres, &c.

Route from Franlg’ort on the Mein to Augsburg.

Posts

1 Hanau - - - - - Philipsruhe and Wilhelmsbad, in
this neighbourhood, merit no-
tice.

l Dettz’ngen - - - - - Memorable for the battle of 1743.

£- Aschqﬂénhurg .

1 Ohemhurg

1 Miltenhurg

l Hundheim

l Bischqfscheim

l ﬂimgenthez'm

1% Blazg‘klden

1% (frailshez'm - - - - Famous for its China Manufac-

ture, and mineral waters.

188 . APPENDIX. CHAP. vm.
1 Dunhelsbu'hl - - i - - The Church of the Carmelites, in
this town, is adorned with a ﬁne

picture.
1% Nordlingen - - - - A Cruciﬁx, attributed to Buona-
roti, and an excellent Painting,
by Albert Durer, embellish] the

principal Church here.
1% Donauwo'rth
li- Meidingen
1% Augsburg.

18 posts.

Augsburg, formerly denominated Augusta Vindelz'corum, the
largest city in Swabia, and supposed to be the most ancient, is
seated between the rivers Lech and VVertach, and contains
36,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice here are,
the Cathedral, which comprises twenty-four chapels; and is
adorned with a celebrated picture of the Resurrection, by Zoll
—the Abbey of S. Ulric—~the Church of S. Anne—the Hétel de
Ville—the Tower querlach—the Arsenal—the House of Correc—
tion — the Gate called Einlass—the public Fountains—some pri-
vate Houses, which contain antique paintings in fresco—and the
Libraries belonging to the Cathedral and S. Ulric; the latter of
which possesses the drawings and sketches of Albert Durer.

Augsburg exhibits vestiges of Roman Antiquities.

Les trois Maures, has been already mentioned as the best inn;
L’Agneau blame, in the Fauxbourg, likewise merits recom—
mendation.

Route from Augsburg, to Constance, Schqﬂ‘hauserz, and Basle.

1% Sch’wabmu'nchen
13,; Mindelheim
1% Memmz'ngen
1% Wurzach
& Wot/e}:
it Ravensberg
1 Stadelle - - - - - 'The ﬁrst view of the Lake ofCon-
stance is enchanting.

 

is

cmunvm. GERMANY—CONSTANCE—SCHAFFHAUSEN,SIC. 189

l Moersburg
l Constance

Zell

N1»- I—

- - Travellers who pursue this route

cross the Lake to Constance;
and for a four-oared boat, large
enough to convey a carriage,
the common price is from three
to four ﬂorins, together with
about thirty kréutzers to the
boatmen for drink-money.

The Cathedral at Constance is a

ﬁne ediﬁce; and its doors merit
observation.
The principal inn is L’Aigle d’ar.

Travellers should visit the Island

of Meinau.

Singer: - - - - - - Near this place, on the summit of

a rock, originally volcanic, is
the Castle of Hoentwiel, which
belongs to the Sovereign of
\Vurtemberg, and now serves
as a state-prison.

1 Schaffhausen- - - - The bridge here, constructed by

2 W aldslmt

1 Lauﬁmburg

a common carpenter, named
Grubenmann, once merited ob-
servation; but the ruthless hand
of War has destroyed it. T Ire
public Libraries deserve notice.

About one league from Schaff-

hausen, on the way to Zurich,
is the celebrated Fall of the
Blaine ; and Travellers who wish
to see the terrestrial rainbows
which this stupendous Cataract
exhibits, should visit it before
nine o’clock in the morning.

- - Here is another Fall qft/ze Rhine,-

but not equal in beauty to that
of Schaffhausen.

190 APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.

1% Rheitgfélden - - - - Between Rheinfelden and Basle
is Augst, anciently Augusta
Rauracorum, where remains
may be traced of Roman Anti-
quities.

1 Basle.

18% posts.

This is a ﬂourishing commercial city, supposed to contain
15,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice here are,
tlze Arsenal—the Bridge thrown over the Rhine—the Cathedral,
:1 Gothic ediﬁce, which contains some Antiquities, together with
the Tomb of Erasmus—the Hdlel de Ville, where there is an
apartment painted by Holbein, who was a native of Basle—Tile
Dance ofDeatlz, painted on the walls of a Cemetery, and sup-
posed to have been done by a pupil of Holbein’s—and tlzepub-
lic Library, which is embellished with paintings by Holbein,
Antiquities, Natural History, &c. Basle contains a Univer-
sity: and among the best inns are, Les trois Rois, and La
Cigogne.

There is a singular custom in this city, that of setting all the
clocks one hour too fast.

Route from Augsburg to Ratisbon.

1% Aiclza - - - - - - The ruins of the two Castles of
VVittelsbach, from which family
descend the Princes of Bavaria,
render this small town remark-
able.

]% lVafcl/zosmz

1% Geiseigfela’

1-i- Ncustaa’t

1% Saal

1% Ratisbon.

 

8% posts.

Ratisbon is seated on the Danube; and contains 22,000 in-

anp. vm. GERMANY—RATISBON—MUNICH. 191

habitants. The objects best worth notice in this city are, its
ancient Bridge, three hundred‘ and ﬁfty yards in length—the
Cath edral—the Abbey of S. Emmeran—the Hotel de Ville—and the
Library of the Prince of T ham and Taxis, which is open to the
public Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from ten till twelve
in the morning, and from two till ﬁve in the afternoon. Persons
who wish to see it on other days must apply to the Librarian.—
T he town Library—and the Library, and Cabinet of the Abbey
{if S. Emmemn, likewise merit attention. -
The best inn is, Les trois Heaumes.

Route from Ratisbon to Munich.

1 Egloﬁheim
1 Buchhausen
l Ergolspach
1% Landshut — - - - - The objects best worth notice in
this town are, the Palace—the
Gothic Tower belonging to the
Church of S. M artin+the Church
of S. Job—the Church belonging
to the Domenican Convent—the
Abbey of SeeligenthaL—and the
Maison de Ville.
1 ﬁlospurg
1 Freysing - — - - - The objects best worth attention
in this town are, the Cathedral
——t/ze Benedictin Church—the
Chapel and Cupola of S. Peter’s
-—the Abbey of W eyhen-Stephan
—-—the collegiate Church of S.
Veit—and the Benedictin Ly-
ceum.
Principal inns, La Charrue, and
Les sept Glands.
1% Garching
it Munich.

 

8% posts.

 

192 APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII. -

Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is seated on the Iser; and
contains above 40,000 inhabitants. The Royal Residence in
this elegant city, though unpromising on the outside, is magni-
ficent within; and exhibits a ﬁne collection of pictures; among
which are an hundred and thirty Miniatures, each of them being
valued at two hundred louis-d’ors. The Tapestry represent-
ing the exploits of Otho de Wittelsback—the great Staircase—-
the Picture-Gallery—and the Chapel, which contains a painting
attributed to Buonaroti, together with the altar used by the un-
fortunate Mary, Queen of Scotland during her imprisonment,
and a particularly ﬁne organ, all merit notice; as do the Trea-
sury, and the Antiquary. Other objects which deserve atten-
tion are, the V ieillc Cour—the Palais de Guillaume—the Arsenal
-—the paintings in the Church quotre-Dame—the Church of the
Theatins, which contains a good picture, by Sandrat, repre—
senting the Plague at Naples—T he Church of the English Nuns,
who educate young Ladies gratis—the picture, by T intoretto,
(most provokingly cut in two, for the convenience of the can-
dle-snufl‘er), in the Augustin-Church—the ci-dewnt Jesuits’ Col-
lege—the Church belonging to the Knights of Illalta, and that
dedicated to S. Peter, which contains good Pictures—the Li—
braries of the King, the Theatins, and the Academy (if Sciences
——the royal Cabinets (f Medals and Natural History—and the
Cabinet quatural History belonging to the Academy.

Principal inns, L’Aigle—Le Cheval blanc, &c.*

There are several pleasant Promenades in the vicinity of
Munich : and the royal Villas ol‘Nymphenburg, and Schlesheim,
both situated at a short distance from the city, merit notice;
especially Nymphenburg, which is splendidly adorned with
paintings and sculpture.

Route from Ratisbon to Prague.

Kurn
Nietenau
Neuhircheu
Roe:
IValdmunchen
Klentsch

‘ The inn kept by Madame Sturzel is excellent.

HHu—IHHH

CRAP. vm. GERMANY—LIN‘I‘Z—PASSAU. 193

HHI—IHI—IHD—l—p‘

H

W

Temz'z
Storhau
Staab
Pilsen - - - - - Best inn, La croix dior.
Rochz'zan
[\Ianth
zernowiz‘z

Zditz
Bcnmn
Dusnilc
Prague.

_..—.

16} posts.

Routeﬁom Vienna, through Ra/ishon and Brussels, 10 Ostend.

l Burhersdovf

l Sighartzhirchen

1 Perschling

l S. Poelten

1% libel/c - - - - - - The 4/1th9 here merits notice,

1% Kemmelhach
l ‘ymstettcn
1—;— Strenherg

l

Enns

1—;— Lintz - - - - - - The last post in Lower Austria.

1% Eﬁrding- - - -

This town contains 20 00 in-
habitants. Best inn, L’az'gle
ﬂair. The women of" Lintz are
celebrated for their beauty.
The ﬁrst post of Upper Austria,

1% Bayershach

1
I
1

Sicharding

Sharding

I’assau - - - - - A fine town. The Cafhea'raland
its organ, the Chdfeau, 1/26 Li-
brary de Lanzhm'g, and the
prospectfrom the Garden qft'he
Convent de Maria/”'11”, deserve
attention.

App] 0

19

2
2

.u—p—I—n—g—an—ap—l

1-

m... Nit-1 NIH

APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.

Vilthﬁm

Platling \

Straubing- - - - - The collegiate Church, the ci-de-
'uant Jesuits' College—and the
Carmelite-Convent, which con-
tains the Tomb of'Duke Albert,
merit notice; as does the Abbey
0/ Oher-Altaich, which is in the
vicinity of Strauhinm

Pﬁider

{atisbon

Soho mhach

7'eiswang

Theinlng

I’osthauer

Feucht

Nuremberg - - This city contains 30,000 inha-

bitants; and the objects best
worth notice are, the Cathedral,
dedicated to S. Laurence, and
adorned with beautiful painted
glass—the Chapel of S. Anne——
the Church of 3. Claire, which
contains a painting upon glass
executed in 1278—the Chapel
dc Mendel, adorned with several
good pictures—the Chapel Hal:-
schquherienne du S. Sepu/cre—
the imperial Cheiteau, embel-
lished with valuable pictures;
for shewing which, the C us-
tode expects a ﬁorin—T he Ht?-
le! de Ville; likewise embel-
lished with good pictures; for
showing which, the Custode
expects two ldopfstucks—the
Bridges—the Arsenal, which
contains two Cannon dated

HQQ—and the Copper Mills.

Best inns, Le Chem] range, and

Le Coq rouge.

CHAP. VIII. GERMANY.-—WURTZBURG, &c. 195

1 Farnhach
l Ems/circhen
l Langerzfeld - — -

1 Bossenheim
1—;- Kitzingen
1 \Vurtzburg - - -

Bending?”

Esselhach

Rohrbrwm

Besenhach

Goltingen

Hannau

Frankfort on the Mein
Koenigsfein

N'ierges

HI—IH

NlH

NH

-HHH~

{QIH

- The Post-House here is a good

inn.

- The road from Nuremberg hither

is excellent. ‘Wurtzburg con-
tains 16,000 inhabitants. The
objects best worth notice are,
the Cha‘teau, remarkable for its
staircase—the Citadel, in the
centre of which is an ancient
Temple—the Arsenal—the Cha-
pel ofS. filmy—the Cathedral
—the Church belonging to the
Chapiti‘e de A’eumzmster—the
Chapitre de Hang—the Great
Hospital—the Content (16 S.
Benoit—the Picture-Gallery he-
longing to the Prince-Bishop,
containing a hlagdalene by
Fesel—and the Library belong-
ing to the University. Best
inns, La Cour d6 Franconie—
La Paste—Le ngne. The
most celebrated wines of' Fran-
conia grow near “'urtzburg,
namely, the Vin de Leite, the
Vin ale Stein, called Vin du S.
Esprit, and the Vin de Calmus.

‘1 96

d~H--—

—l H 5-! _ I—l Id
MN (41H NlH

NN‘

H

NIH

N

NIH

Jab-4

NlH

rely-4 N|H

APPENDIX. CHAP. Vin.
Limburg ‘
I/Valnerod ;
Freglingen
Gulroth
Wez/erbusch
Ukerot
Siegburg
Cologne’ - - - - - This city is supposed to contain
above 30,000 inhabitants; and
among the objects best worth
notice are, the Cathedral—the
Church of the eleven thousand
Virgins—the Church ofthe 111(10-
cahees— the Chapitre de S. Ge-
reon—the Archiepiscopal Semi-
nary—the H6tel de Ville—the
A rsenal—the Hiero-so/onitamite
Chapel, which contains a cele-
brated painting—and the Ca-
thedral Library.
Cologne is paved with basalt.—
One of the principal inns is,
Lc S. Esprit. &
Bergen
Linm'g
Gauge/f
Rec/cent
Tongan:
S. Tram]
Tirlemont
Louvain - - - - - The inhabitants of this town are
supposed to amount to 40,000
One of the principal inns is.
The Hotel de Cologne.
Cortenhergr
Bruxelles - - - - - This city, the capital of the King-

dom of the Netherlands, is wa-
tered by the little river Senne,
and supposed to possess about
75,000 inhabitants. Its forti-

 

CIIAP. VIII.

1% Ascke
1% Alost

1% Quadrrgl
1 (land

2 Allele/z

GERMANY—BRUSSELS. l9?

ﬁcations are destroyed; but its
ramparts, being planted with
trees, form pleasant walks ‘
round this city. The Parlc, or
public Garden, is adorned with
fountains and statues, and en-
circled by splendid buildings.
The Palace, in which the Aus-
trian Viceroy formerly resided,
contains a Picture-Gallery, and
a public Library, rich in finely
illuminated Manuscripts. The
Hdtel de Ville and its Got/tic
T owcr—t/ze Theatre—theC/zurck
of S. Gudule, and the C/zapel of
thre-Dame—t/ze Clean]; and
Place de S. JlIiclzel—tlle Place
de Sablon, and the Canal, merit
notice. Brussels is celebrated
for its Manufacture of ~ Lace.
Here are several good inns;
namely, The Hétel d’Angle-
terre—The H6tel de Belle-vac
-—-The Hdlel (le Flandre, &c.

This may be called a cheap

city for permanent residence;
though house-rent is dear.

Not far hence, and in the neigh-

bourhood of Genappe, 3 mar-
ket-town on the river Dyle, is
the celebrated Plain of VVater-
100; where a small Band of
British Heroes vanquished the
gigantic power of France, and
put to ﬂight her ablest General.

198 APPENDIX. CI-IAP. VIII.

2 Bruges
2 Ostende. - - - - - The HGtel de Ville, and some
Pictures, by Flemish Masters,
87 posts. which adorn the Churches in
this town, merit notice. The
best inn is, Nicholson’s Hotel.
Subsequent to the Peace of 1814, Packets have been esta-
blished to sail every Tuesday and Friday, weather permitting,
from Colchestcr to Ostend; and the common passage is about
twelve hours.
Vessels usually sail twice a week from Ostend to Harwich;
and the common passage, with a fair wind, is about twenty

 

hours.
Packets likewise sail from Ostend to Margate; and the com-

mon passage is about twelve hours.

Route from F ranlgﬁwt on the Mein, through Cassel, to Munster.

1% Friedberg

l Butzhach

1 Giessen - - - - - The University of Giessen was
founded in 1607. The Liﬁary
—-the Pcedagogimn—the Chri-
teau—the Arsenal-—-and the
Church of S. Pancrace merit
notice.

1 Marburg - - - - - The Library, belonging to the
University, here, is a fine one.
The best inn is, the Post-House.

1%: Holzdmf

1 Jessbezg

l lVabern

1% Cassel - ‘ - - - - - This city is supposed to contain

above 18,000 inhabitants; and

the objects best worth notice

are, the Chéteau—the Palace

-—the Place de Frederic and the

Statue by which it is adorned

--the Arsenal—the Roman Ca-

emu). VIII. (iERMANY—PADERBORN—MUNSTER,‘ &c. . 199

tholz'c Church — the reformed
Church—and the Statue of the
Landgrave, Charles—the Opera—
lzouse—the Museum-Fredericien
—-and the Pictures in the Hall
of the Academy of Painting.
The principal inns are, the H6-

tel d'Angleterre, (already men‘
tioned)—- Illaupin’s— Th eStoc/c-
hotm—and L’Az'gle.

lVertzgﬂela

Ostemlog‘f

Lichtcnau

Padcrborn — - - - The Cathedral here—the ci-a’evant
Jesuits’ Church—and the Uni-
versity, merit notice. The source
of the river Pader is in the mid-
dle of the town.

van—H

1% Nien/circhen
2 I’Varensdmf
1% Munster.

18% posts.

This city contains 25,000 inhabitants ; and the Church of S.
Lambert—the episcopal Palace—the Cathedral—and the Chapelof
Bernard de Galen, merit notice.

V ogage 0a the Rhine from JVIag/ence to Cohlentz.

Persons who wish to make this excursion, should leave May-
cnce toward evening: and go either to AIittelheim or Langen-
winkel. Next morning, about half an hour before sun-rise, they
should walk to Johanm'sherg; and from the Balcony of the
Castle there, contemplate the view.

From Langenwinkel to Geisenheim, the time occupied in going
is about an hour; and at the latter place, Travellers should dis-
embark, and visit Neiderwald, a Garden belonging to the Count
d’Ostein, and embellished with delightful prospects. From Gei-
senheim to S. Goaer, the time occupied in going is about four

 

Q00 ‘ APPENDIX. anr. vm.

hours; and here Travellers should sleep; rising, however, at
five o’clock the next morning, in order to reach Coblentz by
nine.

Two boats, one to convey a carriage, and the other to con-
vey Passengers, usually cost about three Carolins; (seventy-
two francs ;) and for ﬁve Carolins, Travellers may be conveyed
to Cologne, provided they do not choose to stop at Coblentz. '

The principal inns at Coblentz are, Le Roi des Romains, and
The Po.»t-IIouse; and the objects most worthy of attention in
this town are, the collegial Church of S. Castor, and the F art of
Ehrenhrcilstein, originally a Roman work.

Excursionfrom Gottingen to the Illines of Hartz.

Behind Kattlenburg rise the ﬁrst hills which belong to the
chain ofthe Hartz,

Osterode—This town contains 4000 inhabitants—Klausthal—
inn, La Couronne. This town contains 10,000 inhabitants.
The richest Mines are La Caroline, which is 105 fathom deep;
and La Dorothe‘e, which is 102.

The Gcorgestoilen is a remarkable work.

Lzzdwigcr—Rcchmz/zaus exhibits a collection of all the machines
employed in the Mines. ,

Two miles from Klausthal is the ancient imperial city of Gor-
lar ; which has only 7000 inhabitants; though it contains from
fourteen to ﬁfteen thousand houses. This city is celebrated for
its excellent beer, called Case, of which there are seven kinds;
and that most esteemed is called Bests Krug. Half a league from
this city is theRammelsherg,the most ancient ofthe Mines ofHartz.

On the road leading from Isenburg to Brocken, not far from
the Chateau de Stappelnburg, is a beautiful prospect; and from
the summit of Brochcn a plain is discoverable, which extends
seventy leagues, and contains ﬁve millions of people.

From Brocken Travellers usually go to Elbingerode, in order
to see the Grotto called Bauhmanshéhle. The Stalactites which
adorn this Grotto are beautiful and various; but the objects
most interesting here are petrified human bones, supposed to be
antediluvian. At S. Andrt'ashulg, in this neighbourhood, was
found a piece of silver, weighing eighty pounds.

This excursion may be easily accomplished in a fortnight.

 

CHAP. VH1. GERMANY-“CELEBRATED BATHS. 201

CELEBRATED GERMAN BATAHS.

Carlsbad.

Carlsbad contains about 3000 inhabitants, and several lodg-
ing-houses. The price of apartments varies according to the
number ofpersons who frequent the Baths; but a good suite of
rooms, with several beds, seldom lets for more than ten florins a
week.

The best Traiteurs usually charge eight groschen per head
for dinner. At the Salle a’e Bolréme, and the Sal/e de Same,
breakfast, either of colfee or chocolate, costs halfa kopfstuck
and twelve liréutzers. For loading, or unloading a travelling
carriage, the price is a goulden. To the Valet-da-Place, who
goes round with the visiting tickets of Itinerants, when they ar-
rive, and when they depart, the fee is two gouldens. For read-
ing the gazettes during the whole season, the price is one
goulden. The drawers of water at each spring expect from
every customer, a kopfstuck or two, as a farewell present; and
the waiters at the Salle de Bohe‘me, and the Selle de Same, ex-
pect every person whom they have attended, to give them at
least one goulden as a parting compliment. The entrance-
money at the balls is one goulden per head: and persons who
require a physician, while they use the Baths, commonly give
him four or ﬁve ducats when his attendance ceases.

The roads in this neighbourhood are abominable.

I" rmont.

The Pyrmont season commences about the end of June. The
new lodging-house at the Baths is a good one; and the price
of each apartment is marked over the door. There are several
other lodging-houses. Dinner costs from eight to sixteen gro-
schen per head, according to its quality; and the public amuse-
ments here are numerous and various.

Spa .

The season at Spa commencesfabout the end of May. Here
are lodgings of all descriptions, and all prices. Truiteurs send

 

202 APPENDIX. CIIAP. VIII.

out good dinners at four francs a head: and persons who like
to dine at a Table (1’H6te are particularly well served for three
francs a head. Saddle-horses cost, by the day, from ﬁve to six
francs each.

Spa, to lovers of gaiety, is pleasant; though, compared with
many other places on the Continent, expensive.

Route from Vienna to Carlsbad, through Eger and Zwoda.

Enzersdoff
Stocl'erau
lVeilcersdmf
Illeisau
Horn
G‘gﬂ‘ritz
Sc/zwarzenau
\ Sc/zrems
Sc/zwarzbach
W itlingau
Brudwez's
Moldaut/zein
Pisek
Straigonitz ,ﬂ
Horazdio'wil: ‘ “
Griinberg
Pilscn
JlIiess
T‘sc/zernoschin
Plan
Sandau
Eger
Zwoda
% Carlsbad. - - - - - The best road to Carlsbad is this,
_ through Eger and Zwoda.
32% posts.

pN~HH———IH>—>—I—th‘
MH NIH va—n NlH NIH NH

NIH

NIH

”HMF—Hl—‘NNHHU—

Route from Hanover to Pyrmout.

1% Springe
l [lama/n - - - - - Astrongplacc.

CIIAP. VIII. GERMAXY—RINTELN—AIX-LA-CIIAPELLE. Q03

1 Pyrmont. - - - - - The Chariot de Paste goes from

-—-- Hanover to Pyrmont during the

3% posts. months of June, July, and Au-
gust.

Route from Hamburg to Pyrmont.

PIarburg
Tosledt
Rotenburg
Otlersberg
Bréme

NIH NIH N}...

Bassum
Barenburg
'clzt
ﬁlinden - n - - - La Ville de Berlin is a good hotel.
Rinteln - - - - - This town contains a celebrated
University.

NIH NIH

NIH

HH~HH~H~H

1% Pyrmont.

 

13% posts.

Routcﬂ-om Brussels, through Aix-la-C/zapelle and Liege, to Spa.

1% Cortenberg

1% Louvain

2 Tirlemont

2 S. Trond

1% Tongres

1% Heck/Lei»;

1% Sittart

l Geilenkirclzen

1 Juliers - - - - - The principal inn here is Lu Cour
Impériale.

The distance from Juliers to Co-

logne is two posts and a half.

1% Aix-la-Chapelle - - - This city contains above 27,000
inhabitants. T he Cathedral,
wherein is the Tomb of Charle-
magne—the Hcitcl dc Ville-—

20% APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.

the Baths—and the ci—a'evant
Jesuits' College, are the objects
best worth notice. Here are
several inns.
From Aix-la-Chapelle to Mae-

stricht, is three miles.

I} Batisse

1 Liege.

17% posts.

This city is watered by the Maes, and supposed to contain
above 80,000 inhabitants: its Citadel commands a magniﬁcent
prosPeet; and the Ho‘fcl des Etats—t/ze Hotel de Ville—the
J‘buntain in the Grandc Place—tile Cathedral, dedicated to S.
Lambert—ﬂue Quay, on the banks ofthe Macs—and, the Bridge
thrown over that river, all merit notice. Liege boasts a de-
lightful Promenade, called Coronmaes.

Among the best inns are, L'Aigle noir, and La Cour a’c

Londres.

German
miles.

3 Spa.
Roulefrom Vienna to Baaden.

1 Nearby”

1 Baaden. - - - - - Celebrated for its mineral waters.

 

2 posts.

Route from Vienna to Presbm'g.

l Schwachat

l Fisckament

l Itcgelsbrunn

l Tczltsch-Alfcnbmg - - The frontier town of Hungary.
1 Presburg.

——

5 posts.

CHAP. vin. HUNGARY—PRESBURG, &c. 905

This city, in time past the capital of Hungary, is not sup-
posed at the present moment to contain above 22,000 inha-
bitants ; though its population, previous to the removal of the
seat of government to Buda, was estimated at 28,000. Pres-
burg is ﬁnely situated on an eminence overlooking an immense
plain, watered by the Danube; and, among the objects best
worth notice here, are an equestrian Statue, by Donner, of S.
Blartin, which adorns the parochial Church—another Statue, by
the same sculptor, in the Esterhasz-Chapel—T/ze Governor’s
Palace—the royal Chancery—Tile T Izeatre—tlze Public Grana-
ries—tlze Caserne—tlze royal Cleéteau—tlze Cupola oftlze Clmrch
of S. Elizabeth—the royal Catholic Academy—and, tlze Lutheran.
Gymnasium. The public amusements consist of operas, Ger-
man plays, concerts, and balls. Here are some good private
Libraries, and Cabinets of Natural History; together with a
celebrated Collection of wry faces.

The Ch'fiteau de Lanschitz, near Presburg, is worth seeing;
as likewise is the Chateau d’Esterhasz.

Route from T eutsclL-Alz'enburg to Belgrade.

1 Kittsee - - - - - A royal Ché‘iteau.

l Rac/cendorf

1 lVieselburg

l Hochstrass - - - - Or, Hogstrass. Apost andahalf
is sometimes charged here.

1 Raab - - - - - - The population of this city is es-
timated at 13,000. Its Cathe-
dral is magniﬁcent.

l Gocnyo

l Ais

1 Comorn

- The Church that formerly be-
longed to the Jesuits merits n0-
tice.

1 Nessmelz - - - - - Celebrated for excellent white

wines.

l Ncudorf

l Dorog/z

 

‘206 APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.

1% Weresclzwar

I% Ot‘en, or Buda - - - The population of Buda (called
by the Germans Ofen), is es-
timated at 55,000, including
the town of Pesth, from which
it is separated only by the Da-
nube. At Buda, the Hungarian
regalia are kept: and the Crown
which was presented in the year
1000, by Pope Sylvester ‘II, to
Stephen, King of Hungary, is
an imitation of that worn by
the Greek Emperors.

Telcny

Erase/tin

Adony

Pcntcle

Iv'ocldwar

Pa/csc/L

Tolnau

Se/rare— - - - - - Celebrated for its wines; which
are deemed superior to Bur-

gundy.

NIH

NIH

1% Poétasze/c

l St'l'escoe

l ﬁlo/mesa];

2 Barmzyazmr

l Las/cq/é/d— - - - - The frontier town of Sclavonia.

l Esseck - - - — - Vestiges of the ancient city of
Blursa are discoverable here,

Verra

IVu/rowar

Opputozva:

Illa/.-

Szuszek

Peter'wamdiu

Carlowz'tz— Unlerlrg

I’osl'a

('sm'c rir:

NIH

-~t¢-u-

CIIAP. vm. HUNGARY—TYRNAU—ROSENBERG, 8:0. 907

1%- Bane-aw
1% Semlin. - - - - - This town contains a Health-

-—- Oﬂice for purifying letters and
40% posts. merchandize which come from
Turkey.

From Semlin to Belgrade the time occupied in going is about
one hour and a half.

Route ﬁom Presburg to Kaschau and Tokay.

l CseHes

l Sag-foe

l T yrnau - - - - - This town, adorned with nine large
towers, and several churches,
makes a handsome figure at a
distance. The Cathedral —'tlze
Episcopal Palace—and the Aca-
demia des Nobles, merit notice.

1% Freystddfel

l Rippg/IL

l A'agy- Tapolesang

l Nitra—Sambo/m‘et/z

l Vestem‘cs

l Bagmozs - - - ~ — There are Hot Bat/13in this town.

1 Rudno

l T urocz-Sambo/creth

l Nolscozrn

1% Rosenbeﬁg — - - - Tile [Mineral I'Vaters, and 1116 Col-
lege here are celebrated.

1 Pentendorf

l 0/»‘olisna

J Vi/zodna

l Lusivna

1 Her/ca

l Leutse/mu - - - - T/ze Holela’e Ville is a handsome

building: but the town is ill ,

supplied with water.
1 Bim’un‘e:

208 x ' APPENDIX. , GIMP. vm.

1% Bert/10d

I Eperies - - - - - Finely situated, and famous for
its wines.

l Lemesau
l Kaschau - - - - - A strong town. The Governor‘s
' House is a handsome building.
T be Baths of Kaschau are cele-
‘ brated; but the air is unhealthy.

l Szinne

] Wilmamz

1% Tallga - - - - - Famous for its wines.

2 Tokay. - - - - - On the mountain of S. Therese,
—— and in the vineyard of Szar-
31 posts. warsch, grow the best wines of

Tokay, which, in stomach com-
plaints, have been found par-
ticularly beneﬁcial *.

Hungary abounds in excellent fruit, beef, wild-fowl, and
venison; and the wines are so good, and at the same time so
strong, that, to foreigners, they sometimes prove dangerous.

In Gallicia, and the Bukovine, Travellers ought to carry pro-
visions with them; as little beside straw can be procured at the
runs.

Roulc from Vienna to T riesfe.

Neudoz‘f

G unselsdo 3f
Areusladt
Neu/girclzen
Sckotfzvicn
M oerzusc/z/ag
Krieglac/z
ﬁlers/mfg):
Bruck
Rettelslez'n

NIH

—)-o—>-a-—a-o—:>—..n

* The Hungarians have eight sorts of wine somewhat similar in ﬂavour to
Tokay; and frequently sold under that name.

CRAP. VIII. GERMANY-GRATZ—LAYBACH. 209
I Peggau
l Gratz - - - - - - This town, the capital of Styria,
is supposed to contain above
33,000 inhabitants; and among
the objects best worth notice
are, the Imperial C/zéteau—the
Maison des Etats—the Church
de la Cour, and that dedicated
to S. Catherine—the 'parochz'al
Church, adorned with a paint-
ing by Tintoretto—the ci—a’evant
Jesuits’ College—the two C0-
lunms, and the Convent in the
F auxhourg of M uer—theLg/ceum,
and its Library—and the Johan-
meum. The Poor-house, which
comprehends a general hospital,
a lying-in hospital, a foundling
hospital, an asylum for Lunatics,
and another for the Aged, is a
most benevolent and useful in-
stitution.
The promenades in and about this
town are pleasant.
Principal inns, The Laempelwz'rth
——the Couromze d’Hongrz'e, &c.
l Kalsdmf
l Lehering
l Ehrenhausen
1% Mahrburg - - - - This is the most populous town in
Styria, Gratz excepted.
l Feistritz
l Ganno‘witz
15’; Cilli
1% Franz
l S. Oswald
l Potpetsch
1% Laybach - - - - - This city, the capital of the
Duchy of Carniola, is supposed

App] P

210 . APPENDIX. CHAP. VIII.
to coﬁtain about 11,000 inha-
bitants. The Cathedral, dedi-
cated to S. Nicholas, merits
notice; as does the Church of
S. Peter, in the Fauxbourg.

l Ober-Layhaclz

 

l Lasse
l Adelsberg- - - - - There is a celebrated Grotto in
this town; and another, called
The Grotto of S. Madelaine, at
a short distance.
The Lake of Zirknitz is only four
leagues from Adelsberg.
1 Prdwald
l Sessana
l Trieste *. - - - - This is a Free-Port, with a spa-
cious and safe Harbour, and a
32 posts. population estimated at above
30,000+.

The objects best worth notice
here are, the AIole—the Lazza-
retti—the CathedraL—and the
Roman Antiquities.

Principal inns, La Grande Au-
berge—L’Aigle noir, &c.

* From Trieste to Fiume, another Austrian F tee-Port, is a distance ,‘of ﬁve

posts.
1 The population of Trieste did not amount to more than 18,000 a few years
since.

211

CHAPTER IX.
PORTUGAL.

Expense of going in a Post-Oﬁce Packetﬂom Falmoutk to Lis-
bon—Days appointed for sailing—Money quortugal—Lisbon
-Hotels—-Population—Objects best worth notice—Cori: Con-
vent—Cintm—Water, eatables, and asses’ milk—Lodgings—
Board—Fz'rewood—Garden of the Convent ofNecessitades—
Public amusements—Price of draugbt-borses—Passports, 4%.—

Route from Lisbon to Oporto—Do.from Lisbon to Madrid.

Expense of going in a Post-Qﬁce Packet ﬂom Falmoutli to
Lisbon.

EVERY cabin passenger usually pays for passage and board,
(wine, tea, and sugar inclusive) twenty-three pounds, and every
steerage passenger fourteen pounds. Female servants pay as
cabin passengers. Children, under twelve months old, go free
of charge; under four years old they pay as steerage passengers;
and above that age as cabin passengers.

Lisbon-packets generally sail every Saturday; though every
Friday is the time when they are ordered to sail, from April till
October.

The accommodations on board these vessels are excellent.
I would not, however, advise passengers to use the sheets,
blankets, and pillows, belonging to the packet; but to provide
plenty of their own: and this not merely to secure themselves
from cold, and other unpleasant circumstances, during their
voyage; but likewise because blankets and down-pillows are
particularly needful at Lisbon. Invalids who visit this city
during winter should wear very warm clothing, and live in an
apartment which fronts the south.

Money of Portugal.
A Ree.
10 Rees, equal to a half Vintem. if s. d.
20 Rees aVintem; in English money about 0 0 1

P2

212 APPENDIX. CHAP. 1x.

5 Vintems aTestoon - - - - - - - 0 0 6
4 Testoons a Crusade of Exchange - - - O 2 3
24 Vintems a new Crusade - - - - - - 0 2 8
10 Testoons a Milree (1000 Rees) - - - - 0 5 7
48 Testoons aMoidore - - - - - - - l 7 0
64 Testoons aJoannes - - — - - - - 1 l5 9

Accounts in Portugal are kept in Rees.

LISBON.

Lisbon, anciently called Olisippo, and in Portuguese Lisboa,
is a ﬂourishing commercial city, seated near the mouth of the
Tagus, or Tajo, embellished by one of the ﬁnest Harbours in
Europe, and supposed to contain 200,000 inhabitants.

Among the objects best worth notice in this metropolis and
its environs are, the Royal Residence; the Exchange; the India-
House; the Arsenal; and the equestrian bronze statue of Jo-
seph I ; all of which adorn the Prapa do Commercio—the patri-
archal Church,- and that belonging to the Convent ofS. Rogue,
which comprises an Asylum for Foundlings. In the last-named
Church is a Chapel dedicated to S. Roque, and considered as
one of the most richly decorated temples of the Christian world.
The picture above the altar is a particularly well executed
Roman Mosaic; as likewise is another picture on the right side
of the Chapel: the pavement is wrought in Mosaic: the pilas-
ters are formed of porphyry, verde antique, lapis-lazuli, and
other precious marbles: the doors are bronze, beautifully
worked and gilt: the candelabra, and the lamps, are of solid
silver; and the altar is composed of lapis lazuli, amethysts,
and gold; and ornamented with a scriptural Group in alto-
rilic'vo, which is one entire block of silver '. Other objects that
deserve attention in Lisbon and its environs are, the new Church,
erected by the late Queen—the Quays—the Aqueduct qulcan-

“ When J unﬁt commanded at Lisbon, this alto-rilievo, together with most of
the church-plate in the city, was packed up. for the purpose of being conveyed to
France: but, owing to the suddenness and rapidity of his retreat, this valuable
plunder was left behind.

The Chapel of S. Roque is reported to have cost the Portuguese nation a mil-
lion of crusades.

 

CHAP. IX. PORTUGAL—LISBON. 213

tam .- which consists of thirty-ﬁve arches: the largest being
249 feet in width, and 332 in height. This magniﬁcent struc-
ture, built of white marble, was erected by John V.—the Church
and Con-vent of Belem, where the Sovereigns of Portugal are
buried—and two antique Statues in the Garden belonging to the
Palace—the Convent ofBrancanas, which contains a picture of
the blessed Virgin, ﬁnely executed—the Cor/c Convent on the
summit of Cape S. Roquewand Cintra, which contains a good
Inn, and exhibits ruins of a Moorish Palace.

Cintra is deemed the best summer-residence in the environs
of Lisbon; but during winter and spring its excessive humidity
renders it unwholesome *. The Penlra uerde at Cintra is usually
visited by Travellers,

Lisbon possesses excellent water, good beef‘, ﬁsh, vegetables,
fruit, and asses’ milk; but eligible lodgings are scarce and dear;
and a lady or gentleman can seldom board with a Portuguese
family under seven shillings, English money, per day, lodging
not inclusive.

Fire-wood likewise is dear at Lisbon.'

The Garden belonging to the Convent of Necessitades, situ-
ated at the foot of Buenos-Aires, affords an agreeable prome-
nade; and the public amusements of this city are, the Italian
opera, the Portuguese theatre, bull-ﬁghts, and assemblies at the
houses of the English merchants.

Among the principal inns are, Barnwell’s English Hotel—
Owens’s Hotel—O’Keg'f’s Hotel—L’Hotel Piemontaise—and La
Calcaa’tz de Estrella.

Price quraught-Izorses, Sfc.

Draught-horses, or mules, in Portugal, are charged at an
hundred rees per league: the common mode of travelling is en
voiturier; and a calash, containing two places, and drawn by
two mules, may usually be hired for about ﬁfteen francs a day,
all expenses included.

Travellers going from Lisbon to any other part of Portugal,

’ Many persons prefer Bellas to Cintra, because it is more quiet, and less liable
to fogs, than the last-named place.

\ i

214. APPENDIX. CHAP. Ix.

should solicit, from the chief-magistrate of the quarter in which
they lodge, a passport containing the names of the Travellers,
the number of their horses, mules, and attendants; together
with a permission to carry ﬁre-arms.

Persons going to Spain must apply for a passport from the
Spanish Minister at Lisbon; and this last-named passport, if
presented to Spanish custom-house ofﬁcers, and accompanied
by a fee, prevents any examination of baggage.

Route ﬁom Lisbon to Oporto.

1st day—Alverz'a and Castenkeda—About mid-way there is a
ferry over the Tagus. The road
lies between hedges of aloes
and olives.

2d day—Otto and Tagarro—A sandy plain, abounding with In-
dian ﬁgs.

3d day— Venta - - - - These Ventas are inns, established
by order of government, at the
distance of four or ﬁve Portu-
guese miles from each other.
Government likewise regulates
the charges at these inns, by a
tariff, which is always exposed
to public view.

4th day—Alcolmpa

5th day—Legrz'a - - - - Travellers may stop, during this
day’s journey, at the Convent of
Batal/za, which has a ﬁne Gothic
church, with a beautiful Tower.

The road is good, and the country
adorned with plantations of
olives, and forests of cork-trees.

6th day—Pombal and Pandas—Travellers should visit the liloorz's/t
Castle on a hill near Pombal.

7th day—C0imb1a and Almalmda—Coimbra contains 13,000
inhabitants, and a Univ e1sity.
Here the a Roman Budge, and
Aqueduct, almost entire.

CHAP. 1x. PORTUGAL—OPORTO, &c. 215

8th day—Albergaria, Antonio, Venta, and Villanova—Travellers,
during this day’s journey, pass
two rivers, either on bridges, or
in a ferry.
9th day—Oporto - - - - This city, the largest in Portugal,
v Lisbon excepted, is watered by
the Douro, anciently Darius; on
which river gondolas, like those
at Venice, are much used.
Oporto is supposed to contain
30,000 inhabitants; and has long
been famed for its wines; of
which it is said to export yearly
twenty thousand pipes. T In:
Quays here are magniﬁcent.

Time employed in travelling from Oporto to Almeida, 65
hours——from Oporto to Salamanca, 27 hours—from Salamanca
to Valladolid, 36 hours—from Valladolid to Madrid, by Segovia
and the Escurial, 50 hours.

Segovia is Well worth seeing, on account of its Aqueduct, a
noble monument of antiquity, and in perfect preservation.
Some authors suppose it was erected during the reign of Tra-
jan; but the Spaniards gravely assert, that it was the work of
Hercules.

The Cathedral at Segovia is one of the handsomest ediﬁces of
its kind in Spain; and the Alcazar, or Castle, stands beautifully.

Route ﬁom Lisbon to Illadrz'a’.

Leagues.

3 Aldea-Gallega - - - To this place Travellers are con-
veyed on the Tagus, in a large
boat; but it is not prudent to
set out if the river be much
agitated.

5 Canna

3 Ventas—Nuevas - - - The road crosses abrook.

4 l’lIontemornovo

3 Arrayolos - - - - The road crosses another brook.

‘\

216

Q:

3

$OCQDLG>>

APPENDIX. - CHAP. Ix:
Venta del Duque - - From Aldea-Gallega to this place
the road is tolerably good.
Estremos
Aleravizas
Elvas - - - - - - This is the last town of Portugal.

Here Travellers are waited
upon by the Custom-house
Ofﬁcers, and desired to declare
what articles of commerce, and
what money they have with
them; after having done which,
they receive an Album.
One mile from Elvas the road

traverses a rivulet, which di-
vides Portugal from Spain.

Badly'os - - - - - This town, the capital of Estre-
madura, is entered, on the Por-
tuguese side, by a bridge
thrown over the Guadiana, an-
ciently called the Annas. It is
a place of high antiquity.

Here Travellers are liable to have

their baggage examined. The
road from Estremos hither is,
generally Speaking, bad.

Tala'vera del Arrojo

Lobon

Arrorogo d6 San-Servan

iMerida - - - - - This town was built by the R0-
mans; and is entered on the
Portuguese side, by a Bridge
ofsixty-one arches, thrown over
the Guadiana. Here are se-
veral Antiquities; among which
is an equestrian Statue.

Venta del Desbfado

Meajadas

Puerta de Santa Cruz

Trzg'illo - - - — - The birth-place 0f Pizarro.

Jarajzejo - - - - - One hour distant from Jarajzejo

3/.

CRAP. ix. PORTUGAL—MADRID. 217

Travellers are obliged to de-
scend from their carriages,
while the latter are conveyed,
by the assistance of oxen, over
a steep and rugged road: and
after passing the river del
Monte, on a bridge, carriages
are drawn by oxen up a hill,
which belongs to the chain
called Sierra de Guadelupe.
Jarajzejo contains considerable
vestiges of Moorish architec-

ture.

4 Casas del Puerto

2 Almaraz - - - - - Half an hour distant from Alma-
raz is a Bridge thrown over the
Tagus; beyond which river the
road ascends a hill, thence be-
coming good, and continuing
so the Whole way to Madrid.

2 Navalmoral - - - - The ﬁrst town of New Castile.

4 Cal’cada de Oropesa

4 Venta

4 T alavera de la Reyna

2 Sotocockinos '

3 Bravo

3 Maqueda,

2 Venta del Gallo

3 Santa-Cruz del Retamar

2 Valmquzdo

3 Naval-Carnero

2 Mostoles - - - - - Here stands a Church, the inside
of which is completely covered
with gilding.

3 Madrid. - - - - - On approaching this city car-

— riages are either driven through
103 the Manganares, or over it, by

means of the ﬁne Bridge of Se-
govia.

The country between Badajoz and Madrid is, generally

 

 

218 - APPENDIX. CHAP. x.

speaking, uncultivated, unless it be in the neighbourhood of
towns and villages; and exhibits, to the left, a long chain of
mountains.

It is practicable so to arrange this journey that Travellers
may go by S. Ildefonso, the Escurial, or Aranjuez.

 

CHAPTER X.

SPAIN.

Money of Spain and Catalonia—Ditto of Gibraltar, Illalaga,
Denia, (Sc—Ditto of Barcelona, Saragossa, Valencia, &c.-——
Price of Post-horses, 8;c.—Articles particularly regaisiteﬁr
Travellers in Spain—Route from Bayonne to Illadrid—Sara-
gossa— Valencia— Vallado/id—Bargos—Population of Ala-
drid—Objects best 'worth notice there—Literary Establish-
ments— Promenades—Public amusements — Manafactures—
Inns—Environs—Job-carriages—Gates and Streets—Route

ﬁom Perpignan to Barcelona— Climate ofBarcelona—Popula-
tion—Objccts best worth notice-—Inns—Promenades—Route
from Barcelona to Saragossa—from ﬁIadrid to Granada—Al-
hambra, and other objects best worth notice in the last-named
city—Promenades—Climate—Route from Aladrid to Malaga
—description of that city—Route from [\Iadrid to Cordora, Se-
ville, and Cadiz ; together with a description of the three last-

,vzamed cities.

Money of Spain and Catalonia.

JlIadrid, Cadiz, Seville, &c.——(New Plate).

A Maravedie.

2 Maravedies, equal to a Quartil.

34¢ Maravedies - a Real—in English money, 3. d.
about - - - - 0 5

2Rea1s - - - aPistarine - - - - - -010

CRAP. X. SPAIN—MONEY.

SReals - - - a Piastre of Exchange -
10 Reals - - - aDollar - - .-

375 Maravedies - a Ducat of Exchange -
32 Reals - - - a Pistole of Exchange -
36 Reals — - - a Pistole - - - - -

Gibraltar, Malaga, Denia, 8;c.—-—(Vellon).

A lWaravedie.

2 Maravedies equal to an Ochavo.
4 Maravedies a Quirtil.

34 Maravedies a Real-Vellon—in English money, 3.

about

15 Reals - - - a Piastre of Exchange -
512 hIaravedies - a Piastre - - - - -
60 Reals - - - a Pistole of Exchange -
2048 Maravedies - a Pistole of Exchange -
70 Reals - - - a Pistole - -

-O
-3
-3
l4
l4
16

Barcelona, Saragossa, Valencia, Syn—(Old Plate).

A Maravedie.

16 Maravedies equal to a Soldo, in English money, .9.

about

2 Soldos - - a Real (old plate) - -

20 Soldos - - a Libra - - — - -
24 Soldos - - a Ducat - - - - -
16 Soldos - - a Dollar - - - - -
22 Soldos - - a Ducat - - - - -
21 Soldos - - a Ducat - - - - -
60 Soldos - - a Pistole - - - - -

-0
-0

I
mmmgam

1

cousCo-sv

219

caaqxxte?‘

batoowoucswg‘

Accounts in Spain are usually kept either in Reals, or Reals

Vellon.

Value oftke most current Spanish money in Frenclz Livres.

Doblon - - . - -
Pistole - - - -
Half-Pistole - - - -

- - Livres S3 63
- - - - - 20 91
- - - 10 45

220 APPENDIX. CHAP. x.

Piastre - - - - - - - ~ - 5 43
Escudo vellon - - - - - - 2 71
Peseta Mexicana - - - - - l 35

Price quost-horses, (Sm.

The charge for every pair of draught-horses is four reals
per post; every post being about two Spanish leagues, or three
hours, in length. A Postillion cannot legally demand more
than two reals per post; but expects double that sum, beside
a dinner, or extra-money to provide one. For a carriage fur-
nished by a Post-master, the price is four reals per post.

On entering and on quitting Madrid, and every other place
where the King resides, Travellers pay a post-royal; which is
double the price of a common post.

The post on great roads is well served; and the horses, when
speed is compatible with safety, g0 remarkably quick: but the
roads in Spain cannot, generally speaking, be called good;
though throughout the whole Signory of Biscay, and in some
districts near Madrid, they are excellent.

The custom of taking journeys in a Coo/2e de Colleras with six
mules, or a Calesa with two, still predominates; though, for one
person, a more economical way of travelling is to accompany
the Ordinario, or to ride on a Borrica, attended by a muleteer
on foot.

Voiturins usually charge for a calesa with two mules and
their driver, the keep of mules and muleteer not inclusive,
about ﬁfteen French livres a day. .

The common day’s journey of a Voiturier is about eight
Spanish leagues ; and each of these leagues contains 3400 geome-
trical paces.

It is impossible to travel comfortably in Spain without a Ser-
vant who understands the language; because the Inns are so
destitute of eatables, that Travellers are compelled to purchase
their provisions in the large towns through which they pass;
and likewise obliged, generally Speaking, to have them cooked
by their own servant: a pot for boiling meat, with a cover and
padlock to prevent theft, is therefore requisite; and travelling
beds, in this country, are particularly needful.

Travellers should avoid taking snuff, new muslins, or new

CHAP. x. SPAIN—ROUTES. . 221

cottons, amongst their baggage, as these articles are contra-
band. -
Servants should have ﬁre-arms.

Route from Bayonne to Madrid.

ﬁliniundo - - - - A beautiful entrance to the Py-
renees; and the further the
road advances the more pictu-
resque is the scenery.
S. Jean Pié de Port - Near a spring of remarkably ﬁne
water, between this town and
Roncesvalles, is the spot which
divides France from Spain.
Ronccsvalles - - - - The road from Bayonne hither
being dangerous for carriages,
it is advisable either to go on
mules, or to take the road by
Ostariz, Annoa, Alaya, Ber-
ructa, Lanz, and Ostiz, to Pam-
plona.
The village of Roncesvalles is
supposed to be the spot where
Charlemagne‘s army was de-
feated, when the famous Ro-
land lost his life.
14 Pamplona- - - - - The Inn at Pamplona is in the
square. This town was an-
ciently called Pompelo.

3% Otrz'z

2% Jqﬁhla - - - - - A good road, which continues to
Portacillo.

4 Maraz'lla

3 V altierra

4 Cintronigo

5 Agreda - - - - - Here the baggage of Travellers

is visited and plumbed by the
Custom-house Ofﬁcers.

3:} Hinqjosa

4 Zamayon

222 APPENDIX. CHAP. x.

3% Almazan - - - - - Here the road traverses the Douro
on a stone bridge, near which
there is a beautiful Promenade.

3% Adradas

5 Lodares - - - - - The road lies over a mountain

whose summit exhibits a large
and well cultivated plain.

2% Bujarrahal

2% Torremocha

3 Almaa’rones

2% Grajanejos

3 T org'ja

3 Guadalaxara

3% Venta de Meco

3% T orrejon de Ardoz - - Here the road crosses the Xara—

ma on a bridge.
4 Madrid.

 

82% leagues.

Many Travellers prefer going by Saragossa and Valencia; or
by Valladolid, Burgos, and Vittoria.

Saragossa, the capital of Arragon, is seated on the Ebro, for-
merly called the Iberus ; and contains (1 Cathedral, anda .Moor-
ish Tower, which merit notice.

Valencia, supposed to contain above 70,000 inhabitants, is
delightfully situated in the most fertile part of Spain. Its Cathe-
dral, once a Mosque, is adorned with ﬁne paintings. The Col-
lege o/‘Corpus Christi contains a celebrated picture; and several
of the Convents and Monasteries are adorned with good paint-
ings. The Church (yo S. Nicholas—the University—and the pub-
lic Libraries, merit notice.

This city is lighted with handsome lamps, patrolled by watch-
men, and encompassed with high walls, nearly circular. Its
climate is so warm as to be oppressive during the day, even in
winter *.

l

* lVIorviedro, erected on the site of the ancient Saguntmn, which was destroyed
by Hannibal, is about four leagues distant from Valencia; and exhibits seve ves-
tiges of antiquity.

anP. x. SPAIN—MADRID. 223

Valladolid, anciently called Pintz'a, contains a University;
and, in the Dominican Church of S. Paul, two celebrated pic-
tures, by Cardenas.

Burgos, the ancient capital of Old Castile, is built partly on
the acclivity of a mountain, and partly on the banks of the Arlan—
con. Its Cathedral, one of the ﬁnest Gothic structures in Eu-
rope, and some other Churches, merit notice.

Madrid, anciently denominated Mantua, is supposed to con-
tain upward of 150,000 inhabitants. It has ﬁfteen Gates, all
composed of granite, and most of them handsome: its streets
are clean, spacious, well-paved, and well lighted; and the en-
trance to this city, through the gate of Alcala, is strikingly mag-
niﬁcent.

Among the objects which eSpecially deserve attention are,
the Royal Residence, called the new Palace, and most sump—
tuously furnished—the Royal Cabinet of Natural History—the
Churches of S. Isabella—S. Paschalis—S. Isz'doro—S. Francesco
de Sales—and S. ﬁlartino—the Convent of Las Descalzas reales,
which contains a ﬁne collection of pictures—the Church ofLas
Salesas—the Royal Convent of S. Philip, in point of architecture
one of the ﬁnest buildings at Madrid—the Domenican Church——
and the Bridge, thrown over the Mancanares.

This city is enriched with a University, a royal College, called
Estudios reales, an Academy of Beam: Arts, and other literary
establishments.

The principal Promenades are, the Prado—a ﬁne Street,
called Alcala—the Gardens of the Casa del Campo—and the
banks of the Mancanares.

The Spanish Theatre, the Bull-ﬁghts, the T ertullia, and the
Refresco (the two last being card-assemblies, balls, concerts, or
godtés), are the principal public amusements.

The Tapestry Manufacture; the China Manufacture at Buen-
Retiro; and the Glass Manufacture at S. Ildefonso, merit no-
tice.

Several of the Inns at Madrid are good; and one of the best
is the Croix de Mathe, in the Alcala.

Provisions are cheap ; and the common table-wines are those
of La Mancha and Valdepenas.

There are no Hackney coaches in this city; but job-carriages
may be hired by the day, for eight or nine French livres.

224: APPENDIX. CHAP. x.

The objects best worth notice in the environs of Madrid are,
the Bum-Retire, which is embellished with an equestrian Statue
of Philip IV, by Pietro Tacca—tlze Palace of Arazy'uez, and its
Gardens—tile Palace of S. Ildéfonso, its Paintings, Sculpture,
and VVater-works—and the Escurial, which is situated about
twenty English miles from Madrid, at the foot of the Guada-
rama mountains. This Palace, erected by Philip 11, contains
an immense collection of Pictures, some of which are considered
as the ﬁnest existing; it is likewise rich in sculpture, gems, and
precious marbles; and among its buildings comprises a Church,
splendidly ornamented; and a Cemetery, called the Pantheon,
where the Sovereigns of Spain, beginning with Charles V, are
buried. The Escurial is likewise furnished with a Library par-
ticularly rich in Hebrew, Arabic, and Greek manuscripts; and
adorned with frescos, by Carducho *.

The road from Madrid hither is excellent, and the country
beautiful. ,

Route from Perpignan to Barcelona.

2 Bollo - - - - - - Near Fort Bellegarde is the Bar-
rier between France and Spain;
where every Traveller must pro-
duce a passport.

This road exhibits a ﬁne view of
the Pyrenees.

3 Jonquera p

3 Figueras - - - -

Sand and cork-trees. Figueras is
a fortiﬁed town.

The road traverses the lofty moun-
tain of Cuessa-Regia, the envi-
rons of which are beautiful.

Anciently Gerunda. T he Cat/ze-

dral merits notice.

3 Bascara - - - -

I

3 Gerona - - - -

4 ﬂIaZlorquinas

2% Hostalriclz - - - - Here Travellers fordariverwhich,
after ﬂoods, is dangerous.

2 San-Seloni

' The books in this Library are placed with the edges of the leaves outward; a
singular method introduced into the Escurial by a learned Spaniard of the six-
teenth century.

CH AP. x. SPAIN—BARCELONA, &c. 225

3 La Born
2% Moncade - — - - - The road skirts the banks of the
sea.
2 Barcelona - - - ~ The hedges near this city consist
-—-— of aloes.

30 leagues.

Barcelona, anciently denominated Barcino, from Hamilcar
Barcas, by whom it was built, is a ﬁne city, charmingly situated,
in a delicious climate, near the mouth of the Llobregat; and
supposed to contain 111,000 inhabitants: its Port and Mole are
handsome. The ruins of the Roman town—a Mosaic Pavement,
which probably belonged to a Temple of Neptune—the Arch-
deacon-rg, once the Roman Governor’s Palace, and in its yard a
beautiful Sorcophagus, now used as aWatering-trough—the Ca-
thedral, a light and elegant Gothic ediﬁce—the Church of S.
Maria—the General’s Palace—the Exchange—the Academy of
Beaux-Arts—the military Academy—{he Libraries belonging to
the Episcopal College, the Carmelites, and the Domenicans—the
great Hospital, and the Cannon F oundry, all merit notice. The
Inns in this city are good; and the Promenades pleasant; espe-
cially that called the Muraz'lla. The Gardens of the Convent of
S. Jeronimo, are much celebrated; and the country-house be-
longing to the Domenicans stands in a beautiful situation.

Route from Barcelona to Saragossa.

3 Blartorell - - - - — Hannibal’s Bridge, and triumphal
Arch, render this village re-
markable: the present Bridge
however was not erected by
Hannibal; but built with the ma-
terials of that which he erected.

A ﬁne and populous country.

2 San-Felix

3 Pigm _ - - - - -- This place is situated at the foot
of Montserrat, so called from
the word Serras, asaw; and, in
shape, one of the most extraor-
dinary mountains existing. The

App] ‘ Q

 

226

(Jaw-L0:

3
3

Igualada - - - -

Santa-illaria
Cc’rvcra - - - -

Tarr‘aga - - - -

JlIollerusa
Lerida- - - - -

Fraga

Candasnos
Bujaraloz

Venta de S. Luca
Aguilar - - - —

La Puebla
Saragossa. - - -

51 leagues.

APPENDIX.

An excellent Inn.

CHAP. X.

Hermitages of Montserrat merit
notice; as do the almost end-
less variety of ever-greens, and
deciduous plants with which the
mountain abounds.

Near the town of Cardona is a

lofty hill, consisting ofone block
of Gemma: Salt, with which can-
dlesticks, boxes, &c. are made:
and this substance is transpa-
rent, like rock-crystal.

The road traverses the river Noya

three times. The Inn at Igua-
lada is a good one.

This town is situated in a charm-

ing valley, and contains a Uni—
versity.

The price of
provisions, and of the Ruido ale
Casa is ﬁxed at every inn by
the Arancel, or tariff.

Anciently called Ilerda. —-Near

this place Caesar was defeated
by one of Pompey’s generals.
There are several Antiquities at
Lerida.

- Here the road crosses the river

Cinca. A ﬁne country, well
cultivated. Road good.

- This town was called by the Ro~

mans Caesar-Augusta.

CHAP. X.

SPAIN—ROUTE FROM MADRID T0 GRANADA. 227

Route from Madrid to Granada.

8 A ranjuez -

- - Viz. 2% leagues to Los Angeles, 3

to Espartinas, 2% to Amnjuez,
whence to Madrid the road is
excellent.

2 Ocaana - - - - Windmills announce to the Tra-
veller that he is entering the
province of La Manclza, where
the customs and manners de-
scribed by Cervantes still pre-
vail; and where every peasant
talks of Don Quixote and San-
cho. At the Venta de Quesada,
is a Well, distinguished by the
name of the knight *. Thus is
genius immortalized, even by
the lowest of the people!

3% La Guardia - - - The Church here contains cele-
brated pictures by Angelo
Nardé.

2 T embleque

2 Canada de la Higuera

2 ﬁladridejos

3 Puerto de Lapiche

2 Villalta - - - - Here Travellers either drive
through the Gijuela, or cross it
on a bridge.

2% Venta de Quesada

2%; Manganares

2 N. S. de la Consolacion

2 Valdepenas - - - - The wines of Mancanares and
Valdepenas are much liked.

2 Santa Cruz - - - - The plain of La Mancha begins

near Tembleque, at La Concep-
tion de Almaradiel, the ﬁrst of
the new villages of the Sierra
Morena.

* This well communicates with the subterraneous river Guadiana.

Q2

2‘28 APPENDIX. CRAP. x.

The new houses surrounded with
cypress-trees, which are seen
on this road, belong to German

*4. families who came hither to
' people the country.

2 A lmaradiel

3 Las Cor-rederas
3 Las Ca rolinas
2 Guarraman

2 Rag/Zen

2

—;— Casa (1c! Leg]

2% Andzg'ar

5 Jaeu - — - — - - Here Travellers are conveyed

' across the Guadalquivir, (an-
ciently the Bcetis), in a ferry.

3 Cam/Ii!

3 Alcala la real - - - ; This place abounds with citrons,
ﬁgs, and oranges; and its Ab-
bey is the most amply endowed
of any one in Spain.

4 Pines Pucnle - - - Here the road enters the cele-
brated Vega, or plain of Grana-
da; and crosses the small river
Cubillas.

4 Granada.

 

7 1% leagues.

Granada, not long since, was supposed to contain 80,000 in-
habitants ; but now the population is estimated at only 50.000.
The Cathedral here, a large and venerable pile, is embellished
with ﬁne paintings, by Don Pedro d’Athanasia, Spagnoletto,
Risuenno, and John of Seville. The Cartuxa—Los Angelos—
S. Domingo—and the Capztchin Convent, possess good pictures;
and the Collection (if ilIoorish Antiquities merits notice.

The Paseo is a pleasant Promenade; so likewise is that on
the banks of the Xenil ; and the climate is temperate and
healthy.

Alhambra, justly the pride of Granada, stands on a lofty emi-
nence between the rivers Douro and Xenil, and derives its name

CHAP. x. SPAIN—GRANADA, &c. 929

from the red colour of the materials with which it is built; the
word Alhambra, signifying the red house.

This ancient Palace of the Moorish Kings, in point of work-
manship, perhaps the most beautiful structure extant, is so well
described by Townsend, that I cannot do better than copy his
account of it.

“ The ascent to this ediﬁce (unique in its style of architec-
ture), is through a shady and well-watered grove of elms,
abounding with nightingales. You enter ﬁrst into an oblong
court of 150 feet by 90, with a basin of water in the midst, of
100 feet in length, encompassed by a ﬂower-border. At each
end is a colonnade. Hence you pass into the court of the lions,
so called because the fountain in the middle is supported by
lions. It is adorned with a colonnade of an hundred and forty
marble pillars. The royal bed-chamber has two alcoves adorned
with columns, and a fountain between them in the middle of the
room; adjoining are two hot-baths. The great hall is about
40 feet square, and 60 in height, with eight windows and two
doors, all in deep recesses. Between this and the oblong court
is a gallery of 90 feet by 16. All these lower apartments have
fountains, and are paved either with tiles or marble, in checkers.
The idea of the ceilings is evidently taken from stalactites, or
drop-stones, found in the roofs of natural caverns. The orna-
ments of the friezes are arabesque, and perfectly accord with
the Arabic inscriptions, which are here suited to the purpose for
which each apartment was designed. Thus, for instance, over
the entrance to the hall of judgment, is the following sentence:
Enter, ﬁar not ,- seek Justice, and Justice thou sizalt‘ﬁnd. A hand-
some staircase leads to a suite of apartments intended for the
winter.”

Adjoining to Alhambra is a Palace begun by Charles V, but
never ﬁnished; and near it another Moorish Palace, called Xe-
nalarifc, the entrance to which is adorned by two cypress-trees,
reputed to have ﬂourished during ﬁve ages ; they are im-
mensely large.

Route from Madrid to ZlIalaga.

521 And/gar - - - - - See the precedingroutc.
3 Pmcuna
5 Bajena

280 APPENDIX. anp. x.

4 Lucena

3% Alameda

3:} Antequera

3 Venta de Cantarrajan
4 Malaga.

78% leagues.

Malaga, anciently called Malaca, and supposed to contain
above 45,000 inhabitants, is adorned with a handsome Cathedral,
the interior of which is beautifully ﬁnished; the high altar and
pulpit are of ﬁne marble; and the choir is ornamented in a style
of peculiar elegance.

The white wine of the mountains near Malaga, and the red
wine, called vino tinto, are much esteemed; and the fruits are
excellent. '

Some vestiges of antiquities may be discovered here.

Route ﬁom I‘ladrid to Cordova, Seville, and Cadiz.

52% Andajar - - - - - See the route from Madrid to
Granada.
3% Aldea del Rio
3% Carplo
2:} Cortg'jo de Casa Blanca
2-11- Cordova.

64% leagues.

Cordova, anciently denominated Corduba, and reputed to con~
tain near 30,000 inhabitants, was built by the Romans, and sub-
sequently became a Moorish capital. It stands in a charming
situation, and is watered by the Guadalquivir. A considerable
part of the Roman Walls still remain; and the Cathedral, once a
Mosque, is a splendid, though a fantastic ediﬁce.

According to Strabo, Corduba was founded by Marcellus,
and the ﬁrst Roman Colony established in Spain; it boasts of
having given birth to Seneca and Lucan.

3 Cortgjo dc illango-Negro
3 Carlola

CHAP. x. SPAIN—SEVILLE, &c. _ 231

4 Erg'ja

3 Louisiana

3% Venta de [a Portuguesa
2% Carmona

3 Jamzone la Vieja

3 Seville.

—_

89% leagues.

Seville, anciently denominated Hispalis, is supposed to con-
tain above 80,000 inhabitants; and possesses an excellent inn,
called The Posada de la Baviere. The city stands on the banks
of the Guadalquivir, in a rich and beautiful plain : its walls, like
those of several Spanish towns, are circular, and seem ofMoor-
ish construction. Some of its gates are handsome; and its Ca-
thedral is a magniﬁcent ediﬁce, the Tower belonging to which
is deemed achefd’aeuvre of architecture. In the Cathedral are
some very ﬁne pictures; that called The Gamha, and painted
by Luis de Vargas, especially merits notice ; as do those of the
admirable Murillo, who was born at Seville. The Organ is a
very ﬁne one ; and the episcopal Library consists of 20,000 vo-
lumes. The Hospicio de la Caritad contains the master-piece
of Murillo; and the Capuchz'n Church is likewise enriched with
several of his works. The Church of Santa Cruz contains a ﬁne
picture, by Don Pedro de Campanna, of the Descent from the
Cross; the Franciscan Convent is embellished with paintings by
Murillo; as are many other Convents, Churches, and private
houses. The Jesuits’ College, now the Inquisition, is a hand—
some structure; the Alcazar, or ancient Aloorz'sh Palace, and its
Garden, deserve notice; as do the Exchange, the University, the
Aqueduct, and the Alameda, or public walk.

()ne league distant from this city, at the ancient Italica, are
ruins of an Amphitheatre.

‘2 Dos Hermanas

3 Venta vieja d6 Oran

4 Cuberas

3% Corfr'jos (1e Romaniana

3% Xeres de la F rantera - This town is supposed to stand on
the site of the ancient Asti-Re-

232 APPENDIX. CHAP. x.

gia; near which spot Roderic,
last Monarch of the Visigoths,
lost the battle that put a period
to their dominion in Spain.

2% Puerto de Santa Maria

3 La Isla de Leon

3 Cadiz.

 

1 13% leagues.

Cadiz, anciently called Gades, was founded by the Phoeni-
cians, and afterward became a Roman Colony. It contains
80,000 inhabitants; is the most ﬂourishing commercial city of
Spain, and possesses a safe and very capacious harbour. Among
the objects best worth notice at Cadiz are, the new Custom-house
-—the great Hospital—the Capuclu'n-Clzurclz, adorned with an
Ecce Homo, by Murillo—tile old, and #26 new Cathedral—the
T beatre—the Mall—-—and t7ze Ramparts.

The public amusements consist of bull-ﬁghts, French, Italian,
and Spanish theatrical exhibitions; assemblies, balls, concerts,
and parties of pleasure to Chiclona, a small tOWn four leagues
from Cadiz.

The best wines in this neighbourhood are Xeres, and Paca-
retti.

Travellers who visit Cadiz should take especial care to be sup-
plied with water from the adjacent village, called Puerto de
Santa Maria.

The churches and convents of Spain are peculiarly rich in
plate and precious stones; but these treasures, however splen-
didly they may decorate an altar, do not deserve to be named
among the objects most worthy of a Traveller’s attention : per-
sons who have sufﬁcient leisure, however, would do well to exa-
mine them.

233

CHAPTER XI.

KINGDOM OF THE NETHERLANDS.
PROVINCE OF HOLLAND.

Along—Post horses—Trechschuyts, &c.—Expense of travelling
postﬁom Naarden to Amsterdam—Expense of travelling in a
T rechschug/t, dye—Dutch Inns—Route from Amsterdam to
Cléves and Cologne—and from Cléves to the Hague, Rotterdam,
and Helvoetslugs—Prices, per Packet, from Helvoetslugs to
Harwich—Days appointed ﬁr sailing—Route from Amsterdam
to illunster—from Amsterdam to Emden—from Amsterdam to
Utrecht, Bois-le-Due, and Maestricht—fronz Amsterdam to
Legden, the Hague, and Rotterdam—from Nimeguen to Rotter-
dam and Helvoetslugs—frorn Nimeguen to Bois-le-Duc and
Breda—ﬂom Bois-le-Duc to Anvers—from Bergen-op-Zoom
to Anvers—from Amsterdam to Hamburg—and from Hamburg
to Amsterdam, by Groningen and Leuwarden—Population of
Amsterdam—Objects best worth notice—Public Amusements-—
Carriages—Inns— Villages of Broek and Saardam—Doch-
yard belonging to the latter—Price of a boat to go and return
from Amsterdam to Saardam— Voyage from Amsterdam to
Utrecht.

Money.

of s. d.
A stiver .......... in English money, about 0 0 1
A gilder, or ﬂorin .. . 20 stivers ............ 0 l 9
A rix-dollar ........ 2% ﬂorins ............ O 4 6
A dry-gilder ....... 60 stivers ............ O 5 4-
A silver ducatoon .. . 3 ﬂorins, 3 stivers. . . . 0 5 8
A gold ducat ....... 20 ﬂorins ............ 1 16 0

In Belgium the greater part of the currency is French money.

Post-horses, T rec/cschugts, (Sm.

Persons who resolve to travel post through Holland, should
endeavour to procure from the ﬁrst post-master who furnishes

234 APPENDIX. CIIAP. x1.

them with horses, a paper called Un billet de poste, which ena-
bles them to proceed without unnecessary delays, and precludes
disputes relative to the number of their horses.

A Traveller who procures this billet, pays to the post—master
who gives it the whole expense of his horses, from the place
whence they set out to their journey’s end; and presents a few
stivers to his secretary. The usual price charged by post-
masters for every draught-horse, is one ﬂorin an hour *.

Expense of travelling post from Naara’en to Amsterdam ( two Dutch
miles in distance), with three horses.

Florins. Stivers.

Horses ............... . ........ 12 0
Master of the post-carriages ...... 0 G
Greasing wheels ................ O 6
Driver ........................ l 0
Tax for the roads ............... l 0

14 12

Travelling postin Holland is always expensive, and often dis-
agreeable; for many of the roads are bad: neither ought it in-
deed to be attempted during spring and autumn, on account of
the rains and fogs, which render almost every road so wet and
muddy, as to be dangerous ; and this circumstance, united to the
exorbitant sums usually charged for baggage, makes Dutch
Diligences uneligible; therefore, the general mode of travelling
is in Treckschuyts, or covered barges. These vessels contain
two apartments ; the after-one, called the roof; being neatly ﬁtted
up, and appropriated to the best company; the other, to ser-
vants, Sec. The roof holds from eight to twelve persons, ac-
cording to the size of the vessel; the inferior apartment from
forty to ﬁfty. A Treckschuyt moves precisely at the rate of
four English miles an hour; and is drawn by one horse, on whose
back rides a lad, called the Conductor. This lad blows a horn
as the signal of departure; and uses the same instrument when-
ever he wishes to have a draw-bridge lifted up; and whenever

* Two leagues of Holland make one post; and two miles of Holland equally

make one post.

anp. xr. HOLLAND—TRECKSCHUYTS, Pon'rnns, &c. 235

he descries another vessel. Places in the roof should be se-
cured a day before they are wanted. Placesgin the inferior
apartment cost about six stivers each, per mile; and places in
the roof are something dearer. A roof-passenger is allowed to
carry one hundred pounds weight of baggage, cost free.

The Conductor expects from every Passenger about one stiver.

Persons who wish to travel frugally and pleasantly in Hol-
land, should not encumber themselves with much baggage: for
Dutch porters are so exorbitant in their charges, and at the
same time so notoriously addicted to theft, that it is necessary
to make a bargain with them respecting price, before trunks are
removed, even from one Treckschuyt to another; and equally
necessary never to lose sight of a trunk while it continues in
their possession. The cheapest way of transporting heavy bag-
gage from one town to another is by means of vessels called
Packet-boats.

Dutch Inns are, generally speaking, clean and good: but it
is requisite for persons who intend to reside long at any of them,
to make an agreement with the innkeeper for the price of apart-
ments, &c.

Route from Amsterdam to Cléves and Cologne.

2% Naarden - - ~ - - Travellers who come from Ger-
many find the ﬁrst Treckschuyts
here. Naarden stands on the
Zuider-Zee.

This town is famous for its manu-
factures of dimity and bomba-
sins.

Arnhcim - - - - - The ramparts here are pretty.

- T he Maison de Ville, where the
peace of Nymegen was con-
cluded in 1678, merits notice;
as does the old Cir/iteau of F al-
Icen/zof, built by Charlemagne.

2 Cléves- - - - -- - The Castle here—the Hdtel de

Ville—the lofty Tower, from
the summit of which above
twenty-four towns are disco-

2; Amersfort

{Q

2 Aymcgen -

 

236

1%

1%

1%

1

“5309"

l
2

APPENDIX. CHAP. XI.

verable~and the Promenades,
all merit notice.

Calcar

Xanten

Rheinbergen

Hochstras

Undingen

Neus

Dormagen

Cologne. - - - — - See, under “ GERMANY," the

__ route from Vienna, through Ra-
23 miles. tisbon and Brussels, to Ostend.

Route from Cléves to the Hague, Rotterdam, and Helvoetsluys.

CHEN

Nymegen -

lVageningen

Utrecht - - — - - This is ahandsome town; and the
ruins (if its Cathedral merit no—
tice ; as does its University
(though inferior to that of Ley-
den); and its botanic Garden.
Utrecht is supposed to contain
above 30,000 inhabitants.

Alphen

Leyden - - - - - The population ofLeyden is esti-

mated at 48,000. Its streets
are spacious, clean, and well
‘ paved; its buildings elegant;
and its public institutions use-
ful. It stands on the ancient
bed of the Rhine ; and the street
which contains the Stadt-house
is of an extraordinary length.
The Stadt-Izouse, and the Hos-
pital, in this street, are ﬁne
buildings; and the Halls of the
former exhibit good pictures;
the most celebrated of which
(by Lucas Van Leyden), repre-

CRAP. XI.

HOLLAND—THE HAGUE. 237

sents the last Judgment, An-
other picture, interesting on ac-
count of its subject, represents
the famished Inhabitants ofLey-
den, after they had compelled
the Spaniards to raise the siege
of the town, eagerly devouring
the relief which was brought to
them by their countrymen.

The University of Leyden, found-

ed in 1575, is the most ancient
in Holland; and has had among
its professors and scholars some
of the most learned men in Eu-
rope. It contains many objects
of interest. The botanic Gar-
den merits notice; and the pub-
lic Library is famed for its col-
lection of oriental manuscripts.
In the centre of Leyden is a
T umulus, said to have been
erected by Hengist the Saxon
Prince: it commands an exten-
sive view *.

2 The Hague — - - - This town, or, to speak more cor-

rectly, this village, is supposed
to contain near 40,000 inha-
bitants. The Voorhout is a ﬁne
street, adorned with several ele-
gant buildings, and the Vyver-

0 Haerlem is only ﬁfteen English miles distant from Leyden ; and well worth visit-
ing, on account ofthe Organ placed in its principal Church, and said to be the ﬁnest

instrument of that kind existing. Travellers may hear it at any time,

by paying a

ducat to the Organist, and a couple of guilders to the Bellows-blowers.
The length of the largest pipe is thirty-two feet, and its diameter sixteen inches;
the Organ has sixty stops, four separations, two shakes, two couplings, and twelve

pair of bellows.

Haerlem disputes with Mentz and Strasburg the honour of having invented the
Art of Printing; and its Bleacheries are famed for the whiteness they give to

linen.

The city is neat and well built.

238 APPENDIX. CHAP. x1.

burg is a handsome oblong
square. The Hague is paved
with light-coloured bricks,which
are kept remarkably clean.

Public entertainments here are re-
duced to the Dutch Theatre,
opened only twice a week; and
the price for admittance to the
boxes is something more than
half an English crown.

About one English mile from the
Hague, in The House in the
Wood, is the national Cabinet
of Pictures; which contains a
celebrated candle-light piece,
by Schalken, the subject being
a portrait of William III, of
England.

Two English miles from the Hague
is Scheveling, where the Stadt-
holder embarked when he ﬂed
from his country. The road
between the Hague and this
village is perfectly straight,
about twenty paces broad, and
shaded by beeches, limes, and
oaks, of so extraordinary a mag-
nitude, that they form to ap-
pearance an impenetrable fo-
rest.

3 Rotterdam - - - - This city,reputedto contain56,000
inhabitants, stands near the con-
ﬂuence of the Rotte with the
Maes.

The principal streets are inter-
sected by canals, deep enough
to receive vessels of three
hundred tons burden; and the
Boom-Quay is a ﬁne street:
but the buildings at Rotterdam

\ «3'

crmr. x1. HOLLAND—ROUTES. 239

are completely Dutch, and con-
sequently inelegant.

The Market-place is adorned with
a bronze statue of Erasmus, who
was born here.

Concerts are the favourite amuse-
ments in this city. The Play-
house is small, but neat.

4 Helvoetslugs. - - - - At this Port Travellers frequently
embark for England.

 

24 miles.

Prices, per Post-qﬂce Packet, from Harwiclz Zo Hclvoetsluys ,-
and, vice versd.

f s. d.

Cabin, or whole Passenger - - - - - - - 2 l4 0

Half-passenger - - - - - - - - - - - 1 7 6
Four-wheeled carriage, the charge for shipping

it being paid by the owner - - - - - - 6 6 0

After-cabin, if a Family take it to themselves, from twenty-
ﬁve to thirty guineas, according to the number of beds required.

These rates were established in 1815 ; but probably they
may have been recently lowered, like those to and from Cux-
haven.

Provisions for the Passengers, wine and spirits excepted, are
provided by the commander of the vessel, at his own expense.

Harwich-packets sail to Helvoetsluys every Wednesday and
Saturday, about two o’clock in the afternoon, weather permit-
ting; and return twice a week, if possible.

Route from Amsterdam to Munster.

7 Arnheim
2 Doesburg
2 Lanaweert
2 Bockhold
2 Coagféld

4 Borken

 

240 APPENDIX. CHAP. x1.

2 Munster. - - ~ - - See,under“GERMANY,”theroute
——-— from Frankfort on the Mein
21 miles. through Cassel to Munster.

Route from Amsterdam to Emden.

5 Amer§ﬂ2rt
1% W orthlui'sen

 

2 L00 - - - - - - The Castle here merits notice.

3 Zwolle - - - - - The large Church, in the Market-
place, is worth seeinv.

4 Hardenherg

2 Paglen

2 Sudlar

3 Schwetz

2 Nieuschanz

2 Emden. - - - - - The hIaison (le Ville—the Ar-
senal— the new Church 4 the

26% miles. great Church—and the Tomb of

Count John II, merit notice.

Route from Amsterdam to Utrecht, Bois-le-Duc, and ﬂIaestricht.

3 Utrecht

5 Bois-Ie-Duc - - - - The Blaison de Ville is a minia-
ture-copy of the Stadt-house
at Amsterdam.

3 Hegdenhoren

2 Achclen

1% Erie

1% Asch

2 Maestricllt. -' - - - This is a strong and ﬂourishing

town, seated on the Maes, and
embellished with handsome pub-
lic ediﬁces, and pleasant Pro-
menades: it also contains a
Theatre.

A barge goes daily from Maes-
tricht to Liege, and accom-
plishes the voyage in six hours.

——

18 miles.

"1 r

CHAP. x1. HOLLAND—BREDA, &c. 241

The price of each seat in this
vessel is twelve stivers.

Route from Amsterdam to Legden, the Hague, and Rotterdam.

3 Leyden

2 T lzc Hague - - - - Hence to Rotterdam the country
is beautiful. ,

3 Rotterdam.

*

8 miles.

Route from Ngmegen to Rot/em’am and He/voetslugs.

3: T [mil

3‘ Carine/1cm - — - - The Maes (here calledtheMerwe)
abounds with salmon. T he
castle of Loerenstez'n, not far
hence, was the prison of Hugo
Grotius.

3% Krugmpen

1% Rotterdam

4 Helvoelslzws.

——_

15% miles.

Route from Nz/megen to Bois-[e-Duc and Breda.

2 Grave
3 Bois-le-D uc
1% Dragnen

2 Breda. - - - - - The Palace here is a ﬁne build—
__... ing, well fortiﬁed.
8% miles.

Route from Bois-le-Duc to Anvers.

3 Egdnhoven
8 T ournhout

App] 3

5242 APPENDIX. CHAP. xx.

4 Oostmalle
4 Anvers.

 

19 miles.

Route from Bergen-op-Zoom to Anvers.

4 Puten
4 Anvers.
8 miles.

Route from Amsterdam to Hamburg.

1 1% Zwolle

 

4 Hardenberg

4 Nien/ms

3 Linger:

2 Hoselunen - - - - The Castle of Clemenswertle, in
this neighbourhood, merits no-
tice.

2 Loeningen

2 Kloppenburg

3 W ildskauSen '

l Delmenlzorst

l Bré'me

1 Obem-Neuland

l Fisc/zerhude

3 Klostcr—Sevcn - - - The Convention of 1757 was con-

cluded here.

4 Bumtehua’e

1-;— Kranz

% Elan/census - - - - The situation of this village is
picturesque. ,

‘2. Hamburg. - - - - It is necessary to cross the Elbe

in order to reach Hamburg.
46% miles. 4‘

Route from Hamburg to Amsterdam, through Groningen and
Lcuwardcn.

4% Hamburg

CHAP. XI. HOLLAND—GRONINGEN—AMSTERDAM. 243 ‘

4% Bre-mervocrde

3 'Elsﬂeth . - - - - Here the road crosses the Weser.

7 Barn/zorst ‘

1% Ape

4 Detron

1 Nieusckans

1—:— IVinschoten

1% Groningen - - - - The Market-placehere, called the
Bree-Mark, is magniﬁcent;
and the Got/tic Tower of S.
lVIartin’s Church is the loftiest
building in Holland. T he Li-
brary belonging to the Uni-
versity merits notice; and the
Plantage is a pleasant Pro-
menade.

A variety of petrifactions are

found in the vicinity of this

town.

3 Strohbusch

‘2 Doc/cum _

2 Leuwarden

Franc/{er

1 Harlingen - - - - This is ahandsome town.

14 Amsterdam. - - - - In order to reach this city, it is
__ necessary to cross the Zuider-
52% miles. Zee.

Amsterdam, situated at the conﬂuence of the Amstel with a
rivulet called the Wye, is a fortiﬁed town, about nine miles in
circumference, and supposed to contain 217,000 inhabitants.
The Stack-house, a justly celebrated ediﬁce, is embellished on
the outside with statues, among which is a ﬁne colossal Atlas.
The Hall where criminals receive sentence, and the great Hall,
together with its bronze Gates, merit notice. The Burgo-
masters’ Apartment contains a ﬁne picture, by Ferdinand Bo],
representing Fabricius in the camp of Pyrrhus; and another of
Curius at his frugal repast. The Council-chamber is adorned
with paintings; one of which, by Vanderhelst, represents the
entertainment given by the Burgomasters of Amsterdam to the
Ambassadors of Spain, in consequence of the peace of Munster.

R 2

244 APPENDIX. CHAP. x1.

Another picture, by Vandyck, represents an assembly of the
States. The Stadt-house stands upon piles, in number said to
be 13,659. The new Church, near the Stadt-house, contains
Monuments t0 the memory of several distinguished Dutchmen;
and the old Church, called Oudenhirh, is enriched with an Organ
little inferior, either in size or excellence, to that at Haerlem.
This Church likewise contains ﬁne painted glass, and some mo-
numents. Among other public buildings, worth notice, are;
the India House—the West India House—the Exchange—the
Bank—the town-Arsenals—the Admiralty, and its Arsenal—-and
the Orphan-Asylum. The Synagogue of the Portuguese Jews
is a ﬁne one: and the Jews have a Theatre in this city, and re-
present Hebrew plays: there is likewise a Dutch Theatre; and
also a French one; but both are ill—attended; Concerts being
the favourite public amusement. The streets of Amsterdam
are, generally Speaking, intersected by canals, and adorned with
trees. The carriages commonly used are fastened to a sledge,
and drawn by one horse ; and these vehicles may be hired for
half the price of those which run upon wheels. Two of the
principal inns are, The arms of Amsterdam, and The Doelen.

Near this city stand the pleasant Villages of Brock and Saar-
dam; and in the Dock-yard belonging to the latter, Peter the
Great of Russia worked as a common carpenter. The cottage
wherein he lived, while thus employed, is still shown to Tra-
vellers.

A boat, to go and return from Amsterdam to Saardam,
usually costs from six to nine ﬂorins.

The voyage from Amsterdam to Utrecht occupies eight
hours; and is the most pleasing, in point of scenery, that can
be undertaken in Holland.

The Dykes of this country, constructed to preserve it from
inundations, are stupendous Works, which highly merit notice.

245

CHAPTER XII.

DENMARK.

Aloney quennzarh—Price ofPost-horses, 8;c.—Day-boolc—Pass-
ports, bra—Route from Hamburg by sea to Helsingoer, and
thence by land to Copenhagen—Route by land to Lubech, or
Kiel, and thence by sea to Copenhagen—Expense attendant
upon crossing the Great Belt—ditto upon crossing tbe Little
Belt—Copenhagen—Harbour—Population—Naval Arsenal——
other objects best worth notice—Inn—Environs—Route . from
Copenhagen to Hamburg—Routeﬁom Copenhagen to Got/zen-
borg.

Money ofDenmar/c.

£ s. d.
A shilling, in English money, about - - 0 0’ 0%
16 skillings, called a mark - - - - - 0 o 9
A crown, 4 marks - - - - - - - - o 3 0
A rix-dollar, 6 marks - - - - -‘ - 0 4. 6
A ducat, 11 marks — - - - - - - 0 8 3
A hatt-ducat, 14 marks - - - — - - o 10 6

A mark is an imaginary coin. The Danes usually keep ac-
counts in rix—dollars.

Price q/‘Post-horses, &c.

The customary price of post-horses in Denmark is sixteen
shillings a horse, per German mile.

Every postillion is entitled to fourskillings per German mile;
and for a carriage, furnished by a post-master, the price is two
skillings per German mile.

In the Isle of Funen the price is only ten skillings a horse,
per German mile, during summer; but, in winter, something
more.

In Zeeland the price is ﬁfteen skillings a horse, per German
mile.

.246 APPENDIX. CHAP. x11.

In addition to the price of post-horses, two skillings and a
half per mile are paid at every barrier.

To every English carriage, containing four places, post-
masters have a right to put six horses; and to every English
carriage, containing two places, four horses: but three persons
going in an open post-chariot of the country, and having only
One trunk, are not compelled to take more than one pair of
horses. '

Persons who travel post in Denmark, and in the Duchy of
Holstein, receive, at every post—house, a billet, containing the
hour, and even the moment of their departure from that station.
Postillions are bound to drive at the rate of one German mile
an hour; and dare not stop, nor even smoke, without permission
from the Traveller; who, on changing horses, gives his billet to
the post-master; and at [the same time mentions whether the
postillions have behaved well or ill; and, in the latter case, they
are severely punished.

At every post-house there is a day-book, in which the Tra-
veller is required to write his name, the hour of his arrival, and
that of his departure; making, on the margin, his observations,
and complaints, if he think himself in any respect aggrieved.

No inn-keeper can allow a Traveller to leave his house before
this useful regulation has been complied with; and the day-
books of every inn are examined once a month by Govern-
ment.

Passports are always requisite in the Danish Islands: they are
presented to the ofﬁcer on guard, at the gate of every city;
and, after having been inspected and signed, they are returned
to their owners by a soldier, who solicits a triﬂing gratuity for
his trouble.

Persons who like a sea. voyage may embark at Hamburg, in
a vessel bound to the Baltic, and land at Helsingoé’r; where
these vessels cast anchor; and where carriages returning to
Copenhagen, which is only ﬁve German miles distant, may be
met with constantly.

Another way of accomplishing this journey is to travel by
land either to Lubeck, or Kiel; and then proceed by sea to
Copenhagen. From Hamburg to Kiel is twelve German miles;
from Hamburg to Lubeck eight; and the voyage from the latter
port to Copenhagen is shorter than from Kiel: but at Lubeck

CRAP. XII. DENMARK—COPENHAGEN. 247

Travellers pay for every trunk a tax of one rix-dollar; and at
Kiel considerably less.

Expense attendant upon passing the Great Belt.

Marks. Skillings.

Embarkation of a carriage - - - - l 8
Passage of ditto - .- - - - - 21 0
Taxes, &c. - - - - - - - 3 2
Drink-money for the men who embark a carriage l 2
Fees to soldiers who have the charge of passports 0 l3
Landing a carriage, independent of drawing it

from the water’s side to the post-house - 0 12
Drink-money for the boatmen - - - l O

The length of this passage is about four German miles.

Expense attendant upon passing the Little Belt.

Embarkation and passage of a carriage - marks 9
Disembarkation of ditto - - - . - 3

The length of this passage, between Snoghoe and Middlefart,
is only half a German mile: but between Aroé and Assens it is
four times that distance.

No Foreigner is allowed to enter Copenhagen without ex-
hibiting a passport; and, on quitting this city, it is necessary to
procure, from the High-President, another passport, which costs
three marks.

Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, and called in the
Danish language, K'z'obenlzavn, stands on the Island of Zeeland;
and is defended by four royal castles, and embellished with a
ﬁne harbour, formed by a large Canal ﬂowing through the city,
and capable of receiving ﬁve hundred ships; though it admits
only one at a time.

Copenhagen has suffered much from the ravages of war; but,
some years since, it contained above 90,000 inhabitants, and a
peculiarly ﬁne naval Arsenal, which still merits notice. Among
other objects best worth observation in this city are, the Uni-
versity, founded in 1475, and richly endowed—tile Library

 

248 APPENDIX. CHAP. x11.

belonging to the University—the Cabinet of Natural History—
the Royal Museum—the royal Library, containing 120,000 vo-
lumes—the Church dedicated to our Saviour, and that dedicated
to the blessed Virgin—the Seminary ﬁr naval Cadets—the Aca-
demy of Painting and Sculpture—the Barracks—the equestrian
Statue of Christian V.—the Exchange—the ruins of the Castle of
Christz'anburg—the Obelisk erected in 1793, to commemorate the
deliverance of the peasants from the chains of feudal slavery;
which was effected by the interest of his present majesty when
heir-apparent to the throne—Jthe Statue ofFrederich V.—and
the Theatre.

The grand Hdtel, kept by M. Rou, is a good inn.

About twenty English miles from Copenhagen is Frederics-
burg, the most splendid royal Residence in Denmark: and near
Helsingoér, is a royal Villa, supposed to stand upon the ground
formerly occupied by the palace of Hamlet’s father: and in an
adjoining Garden is shown the spot where, according to tra-
dition, that Prince was poisoned.

Jaegerspreiss, about six German miles from Copenhagen, also
belongs to the royal Family; and stands in a Park, which con-
tains several ancient Tombs of northern Heroes; together with
the Monuments of Tycho Brahe and Bernsstorf.

Marielust, a royal Villa about ﬁve German miles from Copen-
hagen, commands a remarkably ﬁne view; and the road to
Eenroom likewise exhibits beautiful scenery.

Route from Copenhagen to Hamburg.

German miles.

-4 Roeskilde - - — - The Cathedral here contains the
tombs of the Danish Kings: and
the water in this town is ex-

cellent.

4 Ringsted - - - - - Between Ringsted and Slangense
is the celebrated College (f
Sam.

The principal Church at Ringsted
contains the tomb of Canute;
and is likewise the burial place
of other Danish Princes.

4 Ss’angense

CHAP. XII. DENMARK—ODENSEE, SLESWICK, &c. 249

 

2 Corsoér - - - - - Here Travellers embark upon the
Great Belt.

4 Ngborg

4 Odensee - »- - - - This is the capital of the Isle of
Funen.

5 Assens - - - - - Here Travellers cross the Little
Belt.

2 Aroé'sund

2 Hadcrsle'vcn

4% Apenma’e

4% Flensborg - - - - - A safe Port, capable of admitting
very large vessels.

4% Sleswick - - - - - This is the capitalofthe Duchyof
Sleswick.

3% Rendsborg - - - - Here the Eyder marks the boun-
dary between Germany and
Denmark.

3 Remmel

3 Itzcho

3% Elms/zone

2% Pinneberg

3% Hamburg.

62%

Route from Copenhagen to Got/zenborg.

German miles.
6 Helsingborg - - - - Between Copenhagen and Hel-
singborg Travellers cross the
Sound, and enter Sweden.
Swedish miles *.
I Fleminge
1% Engellzolm

1% Margaretha-Tarp - - Hence to Karup the road is very

hilly.

1 Kara];

1% La/zolm - - - - ‘- Here is a ﬁne fall of the Loga-
Strom.

"' One mile of Sweden is about one mile and a half of Germany.

250 APPENDIX. CHAP. XML

2% Halmstat
1% Quibille
1% Sloeinge
1—}: Falkenberg
1% Marup ,
1% I'Varherg - - - - - This is asafe Port.
2 Bacha
1% Alsa
1% Kingshaha
1 Kjarra
it Gothenhorg.

 

6 German miles.
21% Swedish miles. '

 

CHAPTER X111.
SWEDEN AND NORWAY.

Aloneg—Price of Post-horses, See—Route from Stralsund to
Stockholm, through Carlscrona — Stochholm— Population——
Harbour—Streets—Rogal Residence—other ohjects best worth
notice—Pronzenades—Public amuseme-nts—InIts—Environs—
New U psala—Spot where the Kings of Sweden in ancient times
were elected—Iron [Vines—Route from Stockholm to Upsala—
ditto, from Stockholm to Gothenhorg—Description of that town
—P»riccsper Packet from Gothenhorg to Harwic/z—Houtefrom
Got/zenhorg to Christiania and Bergen.

[Honey of Sweden.

The common currency of this country is paper; of which
there are two kinds, namely Bank—paper, and deernment-
paper, distinguished from each other by the word Banco being
added to the ﬁrst, and Rim-geld to the second. They are of
very different value; Government-paper having suffered a de

anr. x111. SWEDEN AND NORWAY—“POSTAHORSES, &c. 251

preciation of above thirty per cent; while Bank-paper continues
at par. Calculations are generally made in Government-paper;
so that payments either in Bank-paper, or copper, go for one
third more than their denomination.

Gold and silver coins can seldom, if ever, be met with; but
the following copper coins are in common use.

Rundstychs. . . . 12 of which make 1 skillino.
Stivers ........ 4 of which make 1 skilling.
Skillings ...... 8 of which make 1 dollar.

Forty-eight skillings, or six dollars, make one rix-dollar, in
value from two to three English shillings, according to the ex-
change.

The Bank notes are of the following kinds:

8 Skillings—IQ skillings—24 skillings—1 riX-dollar—Z rix-
dollars—3 rix-dollurs—and so on, up to 30 rix-dollars.

The Government notes are of the following kinds:

16 skillings—32 skillings—1 rix-dollar—2 rix-dollars.
Accounts are usually kept in rix-dollars.

Price of Post-horses, &c.

The charge for every post-horse, per Swedish mile (rather
more than six English miles and a half), is, at Stockholm, six-
teen skillings Banco—in several other towns, twelve skillings
Banco—but in some of the country villages only eight skillings
Banco.

Every postillion is entitled to one shilling and a half per sta-
tion; and with four skillings they are well satisﬁed.

The hostler at each station is entitled to one skilling.

To heavy carriages post-masters frequently put six or seven
horses.

Foreigners who take their own carriage to Sweden, should
likewise take harness; and also be especially careful to chain
one of their wheels when going down hill.

252 APPENDIX. CHAP. XIII.

Foreigners, on arriving in Sweden, should provide themselves
with a passport from the Governor of the Province they happen
ﬁrst to enter. They should likewise solicit from the Governor
of the ﬁrst town through which they pass, an order for post-
horses : it is also requisite, in many parts of this country, to send
forward a person, called a Fc'irebud, to bespeak the number of
horses required by the Traveller at every post. The expense of
employing a Forebud, is one silver dollar per station; though if
horses thus ordered wait for the Traveller beyond the time ap-
pointed by him, the post-master has a right to one silver dollar
an hour for this detention.

Every post-house contains a day-book, in which Travellers
are required to enter their name and rank, the time of their ar-
rival, the place they came from, and whither they are going;
the number of horses they want, their complaints, if they have
any to prefer against the post-master, and also the time of their
departure. This day-book is inspected every month by Go-
vernment.

The roads throughout Sweden are excellent; and no tolls are
demanded, unless it be on crossing bridges; neither do robbers
infest the high-ways: but postillions, during winter, are apt, in
order to save ground, to drive over lakes not thoroughly frozen;
and, during spring, for the same reason, to venture upon sheets
of ice beginning to thaw; in consequence of which practice so
many lives have been lost, that Travellers should never permit
their drivers to quit the great road.

Foreigners who take their own carriage across the Sound
pay high for its passage : but travelling carriages on sale, may
frequently be met with at Helsinborg and Gothenborg; and
open carriages of the country (a sort of cart, hung upon springs,
and sufﬁciently large to contain two persons, and one trunk),
may always be procured for eight or ten crowns.

The rate of posting in Sweden is from seven to ten miles an hour.

Travellers should take provisions with them from city to city;
because the eatables found in small towns and villages are not

good.
Route ﬁom Stralsund throng]: Carlscrona to Stockholm.

Persons who design crossing the Channel to Ystad should
endeavour to announce their intention, either on a Saturday

CRAP. xm. SWEDEN AND NORWAY—STRAI.SUND, &c. 253

or a Monday morning, at the post-ofﬁce at Stralsund. The
public packet-boat sails from the last-mentioned town toward
night, and arrives at Ystad next morning.

The prices per public Packet are—

Crowns. Skillings.

For every cabin passenger, one trunk, } 2 36
and one portmanteau inclusive

For every servant - - - - 2 12

For every horse - - - - - 2 )2

And for every four-wheeled carriage, 4 or 5.

A private yacht may be hired for seventy rix-dollars, drink-
money, and other triﬂing expenses not inclusive.

Stralsund contains near 1 1,000 inhabitants : its Cathedral
merits notice; as do the Church of S. ZlIary, and its Organ; the
Town and College Libraries; and the Cabinet of Natural His-
tory. 9

16 Ystad - - - - - - This town is small, but well built;
and the German inn is the best.
In the vicinity of Ystad is the ‘
Castle of Marswinsholm.

% Herrenstad

1% Tranas

1% Andrarum

1% Degeherga

1% Nehhelof

1 Christianstad - - - This is a strong fortress, where
Travellers should take care to
have their passports counter-
signed.

The gates of the town are shut
every night at ten o’clock. The
trade carried on here is con-
siderable; and among the ob-
jects best worth notice are, the
Arsenal—the Governor’s Resi-

dence—the principal Church—
and the Bridge.

 

254

Hl—II—IHI—iI—oD—Ih‘p—

NIH NIH NIH

NIH NIH Mu «MI-1

APPENDIX. CHAP. XIII.

Fielding

Gadenrg

Norjo

Assarum

T rensum

Stohy

Ronnehy

Shillings

Carlscrona — - - - This town, supposed to contain
15,000 inhabitants, possesses a
Harbour, capable of receiving
an hundred ships of the line;
and is celebrated for its covered
Docks; and likewise for an ar-
tiﬁcial rise and fall of water,
constructed to remedy the want
of the ebb and ﬂow of the tide.

Rubhetorp

Killergd

Fur

Emmehoda

Eric/csmala

Kulla

Lenluﬂa

Nghheled

Stohdorp

Stwetland

Bransmala

Ec/csioe - - — - - The Church here merits notice;
and between this place and Her-
gu are three Stones, inscribed
with Runic characters.

Bone, or Berga ‘

Sathella

Hester

Da/a

IWoelhy

Banhcbmg

Linkiiping - - — - This town contains a celebrated
College, and u very ﬁne Cathedral.

CHAP. XIII. S‘VEDEN AND NORVVAY—STOCKHOLM. 255

1% Kumla

1% Brink ‘

1% Norkoeping - - This is one of the handsomest
towns in Sweden: it contains
9000 inhabitants, and a secular
Convent, for the education of
the daughters of the nobility.

a} 063/ - - - - - - The lofty marble mountains of

Kolmorden begin here.

1 ~71: Kroke/c

1% Wreta - - - - - - At Staﬁ'size, near Wreta, there is
a rich iron-mine.

1‘3 Jaeder

1% Nikoeping - - - - This isa large andhandsome com-

mercial town.
2-:- Swardbro

 

2 063/

1% Pil/crog

1% Soedertellje _ - - - From Soedertellie to Stockholm,
Travellers have the option of
going by water.

2 Fz'tltz'e

1% Stockholm. - - - - Two roads, the one eighty Swedish
miles and one-eighth, the other,

84 Swedish miles. eighty-one and seven-eighths,

in distance, lead from Stralsund
through Jonkoping to Stock-
holm.

The site of Stockholm, the metropolis of Sweden, is so singular,
romantic, and beautiful, that no description could do it justice.

This city is built upon seven small rocky islands of the Baltic,
beside two peninsulas: its ediﬁces stand upon piles; and the
number of its inhabitants is supposed to be 76,000.

The Harbour, though difﬁcult of access, is extensive and con-
venient; and of such a depth, that ships of the largest burthen
can approach the Quay, which is lined Twith capacious ware-
houses. The streets rise one above another in an amphitheatri-
cal shape, and are crowned by the regal Palace, a large, quadran-
gular, and magniﬁcent structure. A long Bridge, composed of

256 APPENDIX. CHAP. xm.

granite, forms the approach to this Palace; opposite to which
(at the other extremity of the bridge), is a Square, adorned with
an equestrian statue of Gustavus Adolphus, and containing two
handsome ediﬁces, namely, the Palace of the Princess Sophia,
and the Italian Opera-house. The furniture of the regal Palace
is superb ; and among the pictures, several of which merit notice,
is a celebrated Combat of Animals. The Statues were collected
by Gustavus III; many ofthem are antique; and the Endymion
belonging to this collection is particularly admired.

The Church of S. Nicholas contains a good picture of the
last Judgment, and a statue of S. George—the Church of Bid-
darholm contains the Tombs of the Swedish Kings; and on that
of Charles XII, are a Club, and a lion’s skin—characteristic or-
naments! Opposite to the Hotel de Ville is the Statue of Gusta-
vus V asa ; and, on the Quay, that of Gustavus III, The Maison
des Nobles, and the Arsenal are worth seeing; and the prospect
from the Tower of S. Catharine is particularly beautiful.

Stockholm contains a royal Academy of Sciences; a royal
Academy of Painting and Sculpture; a royal Cabinet of Natu-
ral History; and a royal Cabinet of Medals; all of which merit
notice; as do the royal Library, the Library belonging to the
Academy of Sciences, and the Studio of Serge], a celebrated
Sculptor.

The principal promenades are, the King’s Garden; the royal
Hop-Garden; the Park, and the Bridge ofBoats. The public
amusements consist. of Italian operas, Swedish plays, concerts,
and balls; the two last being given by Clubs, called the Ama-
ranth, the Narcissus, &c.

Among the principal inns are, The English Tavern ; the
Crown; and The Cave of Bacchus. The English Tavern fur-
nishes Travellers with breakfast and dinner; the other inns pro-
vide breakfast only*: there is, however, a Club, called the Sels-
kapet, which furnishes a dinner daily to as many of the members
as may choose to partake of it. The dinner costs about twenty—
pence English, ahead; liquors, ice, and coffee, notincluded ; and
every member has power to introduce a Stranger for one month 1‘.

" The price of breakfast at an hotel is about two English shillings per head;
and the price of apartments from ten to ﬁfteen English shillings a room, per week.

1~ The price paid for washing linen in Sweden is exorbitant; and so likewise are
the wages demanded by travelling servants.

CHAP. xm. SWEDEN AND NORWAY—UPSALA. 257

In the neighbourhood of this city is the royal Palace of U1-
ricsdal, which contains the Library of Queen Ulrica Eleonora;
a Cabinet of Natural History, arranged by Linnaeus; some paint-
ings, and a statue of King Frederick.

Drottningholm, a very large ediﬁce, ﬁnely situated on the
banks of the Moelar, is another royal Residence, in the vicinity of
Stockholm ; and contains a Cabinet of Natural History, ar-
ranged by Linnaaus: here likewise is a Picture Gallery.

On the way to Drottningholm stands a rock, called The royal
Hat; and upon which an iron hat is now placed in memory of
Eric II, who, being pursued by enemies, jumped off this rock,
and thereby saved his life, but lost his hat.

Haga is a small and elegant royal Villa, situated very near
Stockholm; and about forty-ﬁve English miles from this Me-
tropolis is New Upsala, formerly the capital of Sweden, and built
near, if not actually upon, the foundations of Old Upsala, a place
of high antiquity; and, previous to the introduction of Chris-
tianity in Sweden, the abode of the high—priest of Odin.

Upsala, so called from the river Sala, which runs through it,
is a well-built town, containing about 3,500 inhabitants, and the
most celebrated University of northern Europe, instituted by
Steno Sture, in 1476, and particularly patronized by Gustavus
Adolphus. Its Library is open to the public on Wednesdays and
Saturdays; and consists of above 60,000 printed volumes, and
about 1000 manuscripts; among which is a translation of the
Gospels into Gothic, said to have been done thirteen hundred
years ago: the leaves are stained with a violet colour, the let-
ters are capitals, and were all originally done in silver, except the
initial characters, and a few passages which are done in gold.

The Cabinet of Natural History and botanic Garden were
arranged by Linnaeus.

The Cathedral, begun in the thirteenth century, under the
direction of Bonneville, a Frenchman, is deemed one of the
handsomest churches in Sweden, and particularly deserves at-
tention on account of its monuments ancient and modern
(among which are those of Gustavus Vasa and Linnaeus), the
treasures of its Sacristy, and the Shrine, wherein rests the mor-
tal part of' King Eric.

About seven English miles from Upsala is the spot where the
Kings of this country, in very ancient times, were elected: it

App] s

‘258 APPENDIX. CRAP. xm.

lies in the middle of the plain of Mora; and is distinguished by
the remains of several Runic stones; on the largest of which,
called The Morasten, the Sovereigns were enthroned; while
their name and the year of their election were inscribed upon
another of these stones.

Near‘Upsala is the iron Mine of Dannemora, reputed to pro-
duce the best iron in the world; and upward of ninety fathom
in depth.

This mine has been worked for near ﬁve centuries; and per-
sons who wish to examine it descend in a bucket to the spot
where the miners are employed.

Route ﬁom Stochholm to Upsala.

2 Rotehro
1% Maérstadt
1% Alsihe

1% Upsala.

 

7 Swedish miles.

Routefrom Stockholm to Gothenborg.

1% Barharhy

1% Tihhle

2 Gran

1% Lisslena

1 Enkoping - - - - Here are some ruins of Convents
and Churches.

1 Nigwarn

2 VVesteras - - - - - The Cathedral here and its Tower
merit attention.

‘2 Kolbeh

1% Kiwping

% Oestuna

1 Arboga - - - - - The Canal of Arboga unites the

Lakes of Hielmar and Mcelar.
In the environs of Arboga are
several Antiquities, supposed to
have been the work of very an-

CRAP. XIII. SWEDEN AND NORWAY—GOTHENBORG. 259

cient northern nations; and a
Forest in which it is imagined
that their religious ceremonies
were performed. .
1:} Faelz'ngshro
1% Glantshammer

1% Orebro
1 ﬁIosos
l Blakslad‘
2 Wihg
2 Bodame
2% Hoswa
1% IValla
2 Binneherg
2 Shiamf
l Shara
1% Wonga
2 Wedum
1% Siogfde
2% Alingsos
1-} Ingarid
% Lerum

1
2 Gothenborg.

 

47%- Swedish miles.

This town, supposed to contain 25,000 inhabitants, is placed
in a picturesque situation on the banks of the Gotha: and
among the objects best worth attention here, are, thefour
Bridges—the Swedish Church, and its Cupola—tlze German
Church—the College, and its Library—the India-House—the
little Gothic Castle (f IVest-Gotha—the Vaurhall—the Prome-
nades of Carlsport, and the view from the summit of Otterhollen.

The Hotels at Gothenborg are expensive, but not good. An
apartment, consisting of two rooms only, can seldom be ob-
tained under a sum equivalent to twenty-ﬁve English shillings
per week. Breakfast costs from eighteen-pence to two shil-
lings, English money, per head; dinner these hotels do not
furnish.

Harwich-Packets sail to Gothenborg every Wednesday and

S 2

s4

M?

'260 APPENDIX. CHAP. x111.

Saturday, about two o’clock in the afternoon, weather permit-
ting; and return twice a week, if possible.

of s.
31‘ he price paid by a Cabin-Passenger, unless re-
centlylowered, is - - - - - - - - - -l4 5 6
The pricepaid byaHalf-Passenger - - - - 7 l3 6

The price for conveying a four-wheeled carriage 15 15 0

Route from Gothenborg to Christiania.

N)

Lahall

Cattlebe'rg

Edet-Luc/c

Forss

Gerdez'm

Trol/zaé'tta - - - - The magniﬁcent Cataracts and
Sluices of T rolhaé'tta are well
worth notice.

«Mu NH #04

-.—.,_y..

[JIH

lVenersborg

Almas

Ralmebo

Herrstadt

- Quistroém

Swarteborg

Ratals/zed

Slade

Skgallezyd

IViclr

Est

Stro'émstaa’t

Stogdal

Helle

Fredericshall - - ~ Here are some handsome public
buildings.

The spot where Charles XII, ex-

pired is usually visited by Tra-
vellers.

p—a.—.|—t H b...— h—I h‘ y—A
Huron-1M“

.—I
#l w NH NH

—‘ ‘—
nl-n NIH 4N“ ~>lw

Guslzmd
Thane
Kaels/msel

h—I .— _4
Nlh-I NlN My.

CHAP. x111. SWEDEN AND NORWAY—CHRISTIANIA, &c. 261

1% T’Vz'llingen
1% Soner

1 Sunbg'je

l Korsegarten
l Sckutsjorga'
2% Christiania

 

38% Swedish miles.

This town, the capital of Norway, is situated in a spacious
valley, and supposed to contain between nine and ten thousand
inhabitants.

Route from Christiarzia to Bergen.

2 As/rer - - - - - - The road leading to Asker is ex-
cellent; and the situation of
that place beautiful.

Here are rocks of a stupendous

height.
2 Bragerncs
% Gusnestro
1% Simonstadt
1% Sun/1y
1% lVom’Iiz/
21‘ Hiemb
% Asken
l Steclzolt
% Hochstedt
1 S/ceen
1% Brewig
1% Eeg
-} Wallelcirch
3 Krageron
2 Oster-Rz'soér
% Groeneszmd
% 11106726
1% Ongestadt
% Berge
1 lVaage
1% Asscn

262 APPENDIX. CRAP. x111.

Sansted

Nederneslcongs

Grimsted

Hogested

Magested

Birkeland

Obel

Wee

Christiansund - - - This is a considerable town and
Port.

I-

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[OHr-IHHv-lt-I

pp

Mandal

Spangelricd

Porshqfen

Farsund

Bistereid

Hitteroe'

Sognea’all

Eggersund

Sirevog

Qualleen

Hoberstadt

Brune

Opevad

Ganu

Stavanger - - - - The Cathedral here is better
worth notice than any other in
Norway, that ofDrontheim ex-
cepted.

)— h-I H i— to H [Q I—l i—l I—o )‘I
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N

5 Karszmd
10 Bergen.

.—

60 Swedish miles.

This is the largest and most commercial town in Norway, and
contains near 20,000 inhabitants: its Port is remarkably safe;
and its Cathedral—German C/zurch—Castle—Hospital—and
illagazines, merit notice. Here are public Seminaries; and a
Society for the encouragement of useful enterprises.

03 9.63

CHAPTER XIV.

RUSSIA.

Jlfoneg (f Russia—Price of Post-horses, &c.——Podaroshna—other
requisites for Travellers in Russia—Russian Voiturins—Pass-
ports—Routefrom Ii‘iga to Petersburg—Population ofPeters-
hurgl—situation ofthat city——Strests—Admiralty—Admiralty-
Quay—Isaac-Platz, and equestrian Statue of Peter the Great
—Church of S. Isaac—Summer Palace-i’lIarhle Palace—
lVinter Palace and its Church——Hermita‘ge—Imperial Collec-
tion of Paintings and Academy of Sciences—Fortress—Church
of the Holy Virgin of Casan—other Edﬁces, 8% worth notice
—-Seminaries—— Charitable institutions —- Mamifactories—Cot-
tage inhabited by Peter the Great—Promenade and other pub-
lic Amusements—Inns—Cronstadt—Rogal Villas—Formati-
ties required before Foreigners can quit Petersburg—Route

from Petershurg to Moscow—account of the latter city—Route
from Petershnrg to the Frontier of Sweden—Route from Mos—
cow to Grodno—Route from Moscow to Riga, and the Frontier
of Prussia.

JlIoneg of Russia.

of s. d.
Acopeck

2 denuscas - in English money

something less than 0 0 0%
An altin- - - 3 copecks
A grievener - 10 copecks

A polpotin - - 25 copecks
A poltin - - - 5O copecks
A rouble - 100 copecks
A Xervonilz - 2 roubles.

A copeck is an imaginary coin. Accounts are kept in
roubles.

264 APPENDIX. CQAP. XIV.

Price of Post-horses, 851:.

I

The usual price of post-horses in Russia is two copecks a
horse per verst, (near two-thirds of an English mile ;) unless it
be a verst-royal, when the price is doubled.

A Russian postillion cannot demand more than one copeck a
horse per verst; but Travellers generally give ﬁve copecks per
verst, which is deemed liberal payment.

Post-masters are directed, by the last Imperial Ukase, to put
three horses to every carriage containing two or three persons.

Between Perm and the Government of Tobolsk, between
that Government and Uﬂ'a, and likewise on the roads beyond
these districts, only one copeck per verst is paid for each horse
from October till April ; and in the Governments of Tobolsk and
Irkutsk only half a copeck. In the territory of Kolhyvano and
Vorsnesenski the price varies according to the season; one
copeck being charged from April till October, and only half
that sum From October till April.

No person is allowed to travel post without having ﬁrst ob-
tained an order for post-horses, signed by a Governor civil or
military: and every Traveller, on receiving this order, which is
called a Podaroshna, must pay a tax of one copeck per verst
for every horse mentioned in the order.

The consequence of the low price of post-horses is, that Fo-
reigners frequently ﬁnd it difﬁcult to obtain them; but, exclu-
sive of this circumstance, the posts are well served. The horses
go remarkably quick, whether harnessed to wheel-carriages or
sledges; and at every verst stands a post, expressing the di-
stance from the last town to the next. During winter it is
usual to travel in sledges; which proceed with such velocity,
that a journey of two hundred and ﬁfty versts may be accom-
plished in twenty-four hours. The common Russian wheel-
carriage for travelling is called a Kibitl-a, and resembles a cart.

Travelling beds and sheets are absolutely necessary in this
country; a bed being a scarce commodity even in cities; and
always unattainable at a country-inn. It is likewise requisite
to take provisions from town to town.

Russian Voiturins have ﬂeet horses, and a great deal of cus-
tom. The real, if not the ostensible Voiturins always appear to

CHAR. xi‘ RUSSIA—RIGA, &c. 265

be the Post-masters : when their post-horses are no; employed
by order of Government, they have the privilege of letting them
out for hire; charging ﬁve copecks per verst on the great roads;
but on the cross roads only three: and when all the post-horses
are engaged, they furnish Travellers with what are called Pea-
sants’ horses; charging for these an advanced price; and de-
manding much more than they take.

No Foreigner can enter Russia without exhibiting a passport
signed by a Russian Minister: and persons who travel in this
country, should neither leave their carriages unlocked, nor un-
guarded; because the common people are inclined to thieve.

Route ﬂ'om Riga to Petersburg.

Riga, next to Petersburg the most commercial town of the
Russian Empire, is seated on the Duna; and contains within its
fortiﬁcations about 9,000 persons; and in its suburbs, about
15,000. Among the most remarkable ediﬁces here, are The
Hotel de Ville—tile Exchange—{lie imperial Palace—the Cathe-
dral—the Arsenal—S. George’s Hospital—S. Peter’s Church—
the Russian Hospital—the T healre—and the Custom-Izouse. The
ﬂoating Bridge thrown over the Duna, and the Garden of
Vitinghof, are the principal Promenades.

Riga contains several good private lodgings; and two tole-
rable inns; the best of which is, La Ville de Petersbourg.
Versts.

ll Neuemniil/zun- - - - Government of Riga.
15 Kil/censfehr - - - - Asandy road.

Passage qfthe Ad.
19 Engel/zardslzof
21 Reap - - - - - This town is adorned with hand-

some ediﬁces.

22 Lenzen/zof

18 Wolmar

18 Stakeln

21 Gulben

Passage ofthe Embach.

18 Toilitz

22 Kui/catz

24 Uddern

25 Dorpat

i-T-‘L'W

g.

266 APPENDIX. ct”. xxv.

23 Iggaﬁ’r
23 Torma
Lake of Peypus, which divides the Governments of Riga
and Petersburg.
25 Nennal - - - - - Government of Petersburg.
14 Rana-Pungern .
24: Klein-Pungern
Here Travellers going to Petersburg quit the Lake of Pey-
pus.
20 Kiew - - - - - ~ The Gulf of Finland is disco-
verable here.
11 Fol‘en/zofs, or Kudlty - The road lies near the banks of
the Gulf.
l7 IVaiwam
22 .Narva - - - - - - Travellers whose passport is not
sealed by the Emperor, are
visited by the custom-house
ofﬁcers here.
22 Jamburg
Passage ofthe Narowa.
15 Opulie »
25 :erkowitz
22 Kaslcowa

19 Kiepen

25 Strclmz

l7 Petersburg. - - - - Superb villas, and other handsome
buildings form the avenues to

—— this splendid capital.

558 versts, about 370 English miles.

The account given of Pctersburg by lVIr. James, a modern
Traveller, is so beautiful, and at the same time so accurate,
that persons possessed of his “Journal of a Tour in Germany,
Sweden, Russia, and Poland," can require no further information
respecting the metropolis of the Russian Empire: but to per-
sons who are not fortunate enough to possess his work, the fol-
lowing account may, perhaps, be acceptable.

Petersburg is said to contain about 200,000 inhabitants, ex-
clusive of Cronstadt, a Fortress which defends the entrance
of the Neva, and is the principal station of the imperial navy.
Pctersburg stands on both sides of the Neva, between the Lake

 

CRAP. XIV! RUSSIA—PETERSBURG. 267

Ladoga and the Gulph of Finland; and} is built partly upon the
continent, and partly upon islands in the mouth of the river;
the right bank exhibiting the old town, and the left bank the
new one; through which pass three Canals, adorned with
Bridges, and magniﬁcent Quays of granite. The streets of the new
town are, generally speaking, spacious; three of them, which
meet at the admiralty, being of an extraordinary length; and
these streets are intersected by others embellished with hand-
some esplanades. T he Admiralty exhibits a facade of more
than a quarter of an English mile in length, adorned by six por-
ticos, and surmounted with a gilt dome and spire; and at the
back of this immense structure is the Dock—yard. The Admi-
ralty-Quay, erected by Catherine II, does honour to her me-
mory. Among several other objects which merit the attention
of a Traveller are the Isaac-Platz, ornamented with an eques-
trian statue, in bronze, of Peter the Great, done by Falconet;
and representing Peter in the act of mounting an eminence, the
summit of which he has nearly attained: his right hand is
stretched out, as if he were blessing his people; while, with the
left, he holds the reins. An enormous rock of granite which,
when transported to Petersburg from the morass wherein it was
found, weighed above ﬁfteen hundred tons, forms the pedestal.
The statue is said to be a striking likeness of Peter, and cost
the Empress Catherine II, by whom it was erected, 424,610
roubles—The Church of S. Isaac, a magniﬁcent, though a heavy
ediﬁce of hewn granite—the imperial summer Palace (a beauti-
ful specimen of architecture) and its public Garden—the marble
Palace, built by Catherine II, for Prince Orloﬂ—tlze imperial
winter Palace, which contains the Jewels of the Crown, and the
famous diamond purchased by the Empress Catherine of a
Greek, to whom she paid for it 450,000 roubles, and a pension
of 100,000 livres—tournois for life—tile C/zurck belonging to tlzis
palace—the Hermitage ,- which, notwithstanding its name, con-
tains magniﬁcent apartments, and a summer and winter garden;
the ﬁrst, in the Asiatic style, occupying the whole level roof
ofthe ediﬁce; the other being a spacious hot-house, adorned
with gravel—walks, orange-trees, and parterres of ﬂowers, and
peopled with birds of various climates—the imperial collection cf
Paintings—the imperial Academy of Sciences, which contains a
Library rich in Chinese and Sclavonian manuscripts: (here also

268 APPENDIX. cHAP. x1v.

are instructions relative to a code of laws, written by the hand of
the Empress Catherine). The Academy likewise contains a
Museum of Natural History particularly rich in ores (among
which is a mass of native iron 16561bs. in weight); a collection
of Rarities, comprising a variety of ornaments found in the
tombs of Siberia, many being of massive gold and very ele-
gant workmanship; idols brought from Siberia; arms and
dresses of the various inhabitants of the Russian empire; among
which are Japanese habits and armour; a collection of coins;
and a waxen ﬁgure of Peter the Great, the features of which
were taken from a mould applied to his face after death—The
Fortress, or Citadel, which is surrounded by walls of brick
faced with hewn granite, and contains the Cathedral ofS. Peter
and S. Paul, a noble edifice adorned with a spire of copper
gilt. Here are deposited the remains of Peter the Great, and
most of his successors: and in the Fortress is preserved a four-
oared boat, said to have been the origin of the Russian navy,
and called, by Peter, The little Grandsire. The Church qfthe
[1013/ Virgin quas-an; a splendid ediﬁce, recently built, and
supposed to have cost 15,000,000 of roubles. The architect
was a Russian slave, by name VVoronitchki, and educated at the
imperial Academy—the Lutheran Church of S. Anne—the Con-
vent and Church of S. Alexander Ncwshi—the new Exchange-—
the statues of Suwarrow and Romanzow—the great Theatre—the
Quays of Newa, Fontaha, and Koiha—the great Alarhet—the
new Bank—and the Arsenal, which contains trophies and armour
belonging to various nations.

The Corps des Cadets, the Convent des Demoiselles nobles, and
the Institute of Catherine, are excellent seminaries for the edu-
cation of the nobility, and some children of inferior rank. The
annual income of the ﬁrst is 30,000]. sterling; and the two last
are richly endowed; and likewise enjoy the advantage of being
patronised and constantly inspected by the Dowager Empress.

The general Hospital, the F oundling Hospital, the Asylum jbr
the Deafand Dumb, and the Asglmnfor lVidows and Orphans, are
muniﬁcently endowed, and remarkably well conducted charities.

The imperial cotton Manufactory, the imperial plate-glass
Manufhctory, the imperial tapestry, porcelain, and bronze
Manufactories, and the iron Foundry, merit notice.

The cottage inhabited by Peter the Great, while he con-

 

CHAP. xrv. RUSSIA— PETERSBURG, &c. 269

structed the Fortress, stands in the old town ; and is still shown
to Travellers. It contains but three rooms, only eight feet in
height, and the largest not more than ﬁfteen feet square. A
boat, made by the Czar himself, is kept near this cottage.

The most frequented Promenade at Petersburg is the Boule-
vards, which consist of three avenues of trees carried round
three sides of the Admiralty: the public amusements are con-
certs, given in the Hall of Music, and exhibitions in the Thea-
tres.

The best inns are, La Ville de Londres — La Ville ale Groa'no
—La Ville de Paris—and L’Hdtel de Madrid.

The Fortress of Cronstadt, its Arsenal and Docks, merit
notice; but cannot be seen without permission from the Go-
vernor.

There are twelve royal Villas in the neighbourhood of Pe-
tersburg. Tsclzesme contains portraits of the reigning Princes
of Europe—Tzarslcoe—Zelo, about ﬁfteen English miles from the
metropolis, contains a room incrusted with amber; and a gar—
den which merits notice; but the house is too gaudy—Peter-
ho]; about ﬁve miles further distant, is called the Versailles of
the North.

It is necessary that Foreigners, previous to quitting Peters--
burg, should have their names advertised three times in the
gazette; which, added to the formalities required for obtaining
the podaroslma and passports, occupies some time *.

Route from Petersburg to Moscow.

22 S. Sophia - - - - - District town. Government of
Petersburg.—A few versts from
Petersburg begins the wooden
road constructed by Peter the

' The distance from Petersburg to Cronstadt is, by land, 47 versts.
From Petersburg to Vyborg, 139 versts.
From Petersburg to Smolensko, 828 versts.
From Petersburg to Archangel, 1,145 versts.
From Petersburg to Astracan, 1,479 versts.
The Almanack published yearly by the Academy of Sciences at Petersburg con-
tains a table of the Russian towns, with their distances from Petersburg and Mos-

C 0W.

270 APPENDIX. CHAP. xrv.

Great; and consisting of a plat-
form of small trees which, when
not neatly joined together (and
this frequently occurs) is so
rough, that the Russians, in
order to mitigate the incon-
venience, ﬁll their travelling
carriages with soft pillows.
The country between Petersburg

and Moscow is covered, gene-
rally speaking, with thick forests
of birch and ﬁr.

ll Igiora

25 Tossna

32 Pomerania - - - - Government of Novgorod.

25 Tischoudovo

24- Spashaja-Poliste

24 Podherezie

22 Novgorod - - - - Government-town. Novgorod,
supposed to have been founded
in the ﬁfth century, and once so
potent as to have been called
The Resistless, possessed during
the plenitude of its power, up-
ward of 400,000 inhabitants:
and though now depopulated,
and hastening fast to decay, it
still exhibits vestiges of former
magniﬁcence ; among which
are the IValls of the Kremlin,
and the Church of S. Sophia,
containing the Tombs of Val-
domir and Feodor; together
with curious specimens of ar-
chitecture, and paintings sup-
posed to have been executed
previous to the revival of the
Arts in Italy. Its brazen Gates
are reported to have been
brought from the Crimea at the

CHAP. XIV. RUSSIA—MOSCOW. 271

time of Valdornir’s expedition
. against the Greek empire.

35 Bronnitzi
27 Zai ova
31 Krestzz' - - - - - District town.
16 Rachino

2‘2 Jagelbitzz'

22 Zimogorie

20 Jedrovo

36 Katilovo

36 Wisclmei—Wolotzek - - District town—Government of
Twer.

33 Widropouslcoe

38 Torjoc/c - - - - - District town.

33 Mednoe -

30 Twer - - - - - - Government town-—-—handsome,

very commercial, and seated on
the Volga.

26 Wosskresenl-oe

31 Zadivo-uo - - - - Government of Moscow.

26 Klin - - - - - - District town.

31 Pechelci

22 T schernaia-Griasse

28 Moscow.

728 versts, about 520 English miles.

Moscow, the ancient capital of the Russian empire, and thirty -
five versts in circumference, is watered by the Moskwa; and
before the French invaded Russia possessed upward of 300,000
inhabitants. The Kremlin, or Citadel, which stands on an emi-
nence in the centre of the town, is a large walled circle, con-
taining a gaudy mass of Asiatic, Grecian, and Gothic ediﬁces;
and comprehending the Holy Gate, through which every pas-
senger walks bare-headed; the Trinity Church; together with
those of S. Nicholas and the Assumption; the Chapel and Palace
of the Czars; and the lofty Tower of Ivan Veliki, crowned by a
steeple and gilt dome. The Palace of the Czars is a gorgeous
structure in the Hindoo style; and was erected about two hun-
dred years ago. The domes of the various buildings are many

279. APPENDIX. CHAP. mv.

of them gilt, the roofs stained either green or red, and the walls
and towers covered with glazed tiles of various colours, or
adorned with paintings which represent scriptural histories.

The imperial palace was gutted by the French; as was an an-
cient ediﬁce containing an apartment which is used as the public
hall of audience at the coronation of the Russian Sovereigns.
Part of the walls of the Kremlin, and one of the towers near the
river, the church of S. Nicholas, the four great bells of Moscow,
the walls of the arsenal, a piece of the gate of S. Nicholas, with
several adjacent pinnacles, were blown up, and the tower of
Ivan Veliki rent from the top to the bottom, by mines prepared
and exploded at the command of Napoleon, when he was com-
pelled to relinquish his long looked-for asylum in Moscow, by
a master-stroke of Russian policy, which reduced the greater
portion of the town to ashes, and thereby, in all probability,
saved the empire from being conquered by France.

Moscow is now rising rapidly from its ashes, though vestiges
of the conﬂagration still remain. The most frequented Prome-
nade here is the Boulevards; and T he German Hotel is one of
the best inns.

Route from Petersburg to the Frontier of Sweden.

'24 Dranic/zeni/roro

15 Beloostrqflskoe

25 Lindoula - - - - - Government of Vyborg.
20 Pampala

lg Sozwenoia

20 Kemem

22 ngorg - - - - - Government town.
20 T ervaz'o/ci

l7 Vilaz'o/ri

23 Ourpala

16 Puterlakce

18 Grenvic

16 Frideri/cslzam- - - - District town.

23 Kiumene-Gorodock

22 Puttice - - - - - Last station in Russia.

5 Aborforce - - - - Upon the river Kiumene.

305 versts, above 200 English miles.

CHAP. XIV.

Versts.

27 Per/couc/zekovo -
25 Koubinslcoe

22 Ckel/cora

24 quais/c - - -
27 Gridnevo - -
29 Islaatslz - - -
30 T eploulca

29 Vz'asma - — -
26 Semlovo

23 Giaclze/‘co-czi

28 Dorogobusch -
23 iMz'lcaz'loolca

244 P726111

17 Bredz'lcz‘no

23 Smolensko - -
23 Koritnia

23 Krasnoi - - -
l8 Liadi - - -
16 Koziani

l4 Doubrovna

17 0761111 - - -
28 . Ko/canovo

18 T olotzine

l5 Malia'cka

15 Krouplci

23% Lochenitzi - -
17 Borgsow - —
17% Jodino

17% Smolevitzi

15% Jouclmovlca

‘21 ﬁling/c - - -
2l—i— Gritchina

18% Koidano-vo

14% Komel _
21%; Novoc-Svergz'no
25 Nesvig - - -
28 Alire - - - -

RUSSIA—ROUTES. 273

Route from Moscow to Grodno.

App-1

- Government of Moscow.

- District town.
- Government of Smolensko.
District town.

- District town.

- District town.

Government town. There is a
ﬁne Cathedral at Smolensko.

- District town.
- Government of iVIoghiliv.

- District town.

- Government of Minsk.
District town.

Government town.

- District town.
- Government of Lithuania.
' 1‘

r

274 APPENDIX. CHAR. x1v.

21 Korelz'tzi

2| Novogrodolc- - - - District town.
36% Belitza

28 Joloudolce

14 Tstoucﬁino

M Kamenlca

21 Skidel

35 Grodno. - - - - - Frontier town.

996% versts, above 700 English miles.

Grodno is the capital of Lithuania, and contains a Palace,
erected by Augustus III; a medicinal College, and a botanic
Garden; together with several decayed buildings which evince
its ancient splendor.

Route ﬁom Moscow to Riga, and llze Frontier of Prussia.

Versts.

489 Orelza - — - - - See the route from Moscow to
Grodno.

2O Orclci

1 8 Babinovitzi
25 Polovilci
22 Vitebsk - - - - - Government town

21 Staroe - - - - - Government of Vitebsko
2 l K oursloﬁsckz'na

l7 Doubovz'lce

22 Ostrovliani

15 Peroutina

12 Polotske - - -’ - - District town.

9 Gamzeleva i

26 Logo/[ca

25 Proudniki

- - District town.

25 Driza - - ,‘ - - District town.
1 9 T sckourilova ‘
18 Drouia

20 Koesslavle
2’2 Flake/1a
22 Dinaburg - - - - District town.
17 Kirouss/ca

CRAP. XIV. RUSSIA—ROUTES. _ 275
\

17 Avcenova

20 Livenkqf

l 6 Tripenhof

22 Glazmane/ce

24% Kopenlzausen

2 l Remerskqf

16 Jouigfkrlzhof

23 Ogerskof; or Iskile
21 Kir/ckolm, or Clwupel

l4« Riga - - - - - - Government town.
19 Alaie
20% Mittau - - - - - Government town.

Mittau, the capital of Courland, is
extensive but not populous.
T he Ducal Chdteau merits no-
tice; as do the rgformed Church

and the Academy.

28 Doblene - - - - - Government of Courland.

24% Berggqf

29% Frauenburg

28% Strounden

24 Gross-Dragen

19 Taidelren

25% Ober-Bartau

27 Routzau

21 Palngen. - - - - Government of Lithuania. ACus-
tom-house on the Frontier of
Prussia.

._——g-

1.346% versts, above 950 English miles.

NOTE“

Persons who are going from London to the Continent, and
wish, previous to their departure, to exchange Bank-notes for
Napoleons, may be provided with the latter, at a few hours'
notice, by Fisher, and Co. No. 3, Cockspur-street, Chaﬁng-Cross.
And persons who intend going from London, through France, to
Italy, may avoid the trouble and detention, with respect to pass-
ports, which usually occurs at Paris, by obtaining, previous to
their departure from London, beside the necessary passport
from the French ambassador, another from the Sardinian am-
bassador, if they purpose crossing Cenis; or, if they intend to
cross the Simplon, from the Austrian ambassador: and autho-
rised by these passports, the police-ofﬁcers at’Calais will enable
Travellers to enter Italy.

A N

ALPHABETICAL LIST

OF

TOWNS, RIVERS, GULFS, ISLANDS, 8w.

Towns.
Abano
Acerenza
Adra
Agen
Aix
Albenza
Alba
Alcara de Henares
Almasa
Almaden
Alicant
Almeria
Algesiras
Amiens
Angers
Antibes
Aousta
Arezzo
Arras
Ascolo
Assisi
Augsburg

A uch
Autun

\V‘ITH

 

THEIR ANCIENT NAMES.

Ancient names.

Aponum
Acherontia
Abdera
A ginum
Aquae-Sextiae
Albium Ingaunum
Alba-Pompeia
Complutum
Numantia
Sisapo
Lucenium
Murgis
Tingentera
Ambianum
Andevacum
Antipolis
Augusta Pretoria
Aretium
Atrebates
Asculum
Asisium
Augusta-Vindelico-
rum
Ausci
Augustodunum

Italia.
Magna Graecia.
Hispania.
Gallia. '
Gallia.
Italia.
Italia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Gallia.
Gallia.
Italia.
Italia.
Gallia.
Magma Graecia.
Italia.
Germania.

Gallia.
Gallia.

278

Towns.
Auxerre
Avignon
Baca
Baia
Balaguer
Balbastro
Barcelona
Bari
Benevento
Besancon
Bergamo
Bevagnia
Bilboa
Bisignano
Bologna
Bolsena
Bourdeaux
Boulogne
Boianno

,Bregentz
Brest
Briancon
Brindisi
Calais
Canapina
Canosa
Casal-novo
Castel di Brucca
Castel-a-mare ‘
Catania
Carthagena
Capua
Cadiz
Calahorra
Cambray

Cahors

7* These names it derived from the Sicani and Siculi, who peopled a considerable
part of the country: it was also called Trinacria and Triquetra, from its triangu-

lar ﬁgure.

ALPHABETICAL LIST.

Ancient names.

Antissiodurum
Avenio
Basti
Baia
Bergusa
Balbastrum
Barcino
Barium
Beneventum
Vesontio
Bergomum
Mevania
Flaviobriga
Besidia
Bononia Felsinia
V olsenum
Burdi gala
Gessoriacum
Bovianum
Brigantium
Brivates
Brigantia
Brundisium
Portus-Iccius
Capena
Canusium
Blanduria
V elia
Stabia
Catana ’
Carthago-nova
Casilinum
Gades
C alaguris
Camaracum
C adurci

Gallia.

Gallia.
Hispania.
Magna Gracia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Magna Gracia.
Magna Gracia.
Gallia.

Italia.

Italia.
Germania.
Magma Gracia.
Italia.

Italia.

Gallia.

Gallia.

Magma Gracia.
Germania.
Gallia.

Gallia.

BIagna Gracia.
Gallia.

Italia.

Magma Gracia.
Magna Gracia.
Blagna Gracia.
Magna Gracia.
Sicania-Sicilia’.
Hispania.
Magna-Gracia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Gallia.

Gallia.

Towns.
Cajazzo
Castigliano
Castro-Veterea
Cassano
Castro-Giovanni
Caserta
Cerveteri
Ceuta
Chieti
Chiusi
Chartres
Chalons
Chalons-sur-Saone
Citti di Castello
Civita-Castella
Civita-Vecchia
Civita della Vigna
Como
Cochile
Cortona
Cologne
Collioure
Cordova

Conza
Cronsdat
Crotona

Cuma

Denia
Dijon

Elche ,
Embrun

Essek

Eugubio

Evoli, or Eboli

ALPHABETICAL LIST.

Ancient names.

Calatia
Carsula
Causon
Cosae
Henna
Saticula
Caere
Abyla
Teate
Clusium
Carnutes
Catalauni
Cabillonum
Tifernum -Tiberi-

num
Supposed to be Veii
Centumcellaa
Lanuvium
Comum
Sybaris *
Coritus
Colonia Agrippinae
Caucoliberis
Corduba Jr
Compsa
Pretoria
Croton
Cumze
Dianeumi
Dibio
Ilici
Embrodunus
Mursa
Iguvium
Eburi

9.79

Magna Grazcia.
Italia.

Magma Graacia.
lVIagna Graecia.
Sicilia.

Magna Graecia.
Italia.
Hispania.
Magna Graecia.
Italia.

Gallia.

Gallia.

Gallia.

Magna Graecia.

Italia.

Italia.

Italia.

Italia.

Magna Graecia.
Italia.
Germania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Magna Graecia.
Germania.
Magna Graecia.
Magna Gracia.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Germania.
Italia.

Magna Graeci‘a.

1* Afterward called Thurii; and here Herodotus lived and died.
f Called, by the Romans, Patricia.
: Called, by the Greeks, Artemisium:

280

‘ Towns.

Evora

Faenza

Faro

Fano

Faro di Messing
Fermo

Fiesole
Florence
Foligno

Fondi

Forli
Forlim-Popoli
Frascati
Genoa
Gibraltar
Girgenti
Granada
Grenoble
Guadix

Guardamar
Huesca
1111013
Joigny
Ispello

Itri

Ivrea
Larina
Lavinia
Lamentana
Langres
La Riccia
Larina
Leghorn

Lerida
Leyden

' Ebora

o

ALPHABETICAL LIST-

Faventia

Ossonoba

Fanum fortunae

Mamertini

Fermunl

Faesula:

Florentia

Fulginium, or Ful-
ginas

Fundi

Forum-Livii

Forum-Popilii

Tusculum

Genua

Calpe

Agrigentum

Eliberis, or Garnata

Gratianopolis

Acci,or Colonia Ac-
citana

Alone

Osca

Forum-Cornelii

Joviniacum

H ispeilam

Mamurra

Eporedia

Larinum

Lavinium

Nomentum

Lingones

Aricia

Larinum

Portus Labronis
H erculis

Ileuda

Lugdunum Batavo-
rum

Ancient names.

Hispania.
Italia.
HisPania.
Italia.
Sicilia.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.

Italia.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.

I talia.
Italia.
Hispania.
Sicilia.
Hispania.
Gailia.

Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Italia.

Gallia.

Italia.

Italia.

Italia.

llagna Graecia.
Italia.

Italia.

Gallia.

Italia.

Magna Gracia.

Italia.
Hispania.

Gallia.

Towns.
Lintz
Liria
Lisbon

Limoges
Lodi
Lorca
Lucero
Ludove
Lyons
lIarubio
lladrid
Malaga’;
BIarseillesgS
l‘vIarburg
ll'Iatteo
Blacon
1H essina
lVIentz
Bierida
IVquuinenza
Metz
l‘viilan
DIiranda
Miseno
:V'Iilasso
Modena
310nac0

Mola di Gaieta
Monte Leone
DTodica
Morviedro
Elontpellier

ALPHABETICAL LIST.

981

Ancient names.

I

Lentia
Edeta
Olisippo, Olyssipo,

Ulyssipo *
Lemovices
Laus Pompeia
Eliocroca
Luceria T
Luteva
Lugdunum
liarrubium
Mantua
Malaca
BIassilia
)Iattacum
Indibilis
7Alatisco
D'Iessana
Blaguntiacum
Augusta-Emerita
Octogosa
Divodurum
B'Iediolanum
Deobriga
Misenum
nyle
ﬁlutina
PortusHerculis Mo-

noeci
Formiae
Illutusca
Mutyca

‘ Saguntum _

A gathopolis

7" Said to have been founded by Ulysses.

1- Famed for its wool.

Germania.
Hispania.

Hispania.
Gallia.
Italia.
Hispania.
Magma Graecia.
Gallia.
Gallia.
Italia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Germania.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Sicilia.
Germania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Italia.
Hispania.
Sicilia.
Sicilia.
Italia.

Italia.
Italia.
Italia.
Sicilia.
Hispania.
Gallia.

i; Built by the thnicians, who called it r1573 (salt), from the 'quantity of salt-

ﬁsh sold there.

§ Once inhabited by a colony of thnicians.

282

Towns.

Monselice
Murcia*

Narni

Narbonne
Nantes
Nato
Nevers

' Nissa
Nismes
Nipi
Norsia
Norma
Noyon
Novara
Nocera
Nuremburg
Crihuela
Orleans
Otranto
Otricoli

Paderno
Padua
Pavia
Palestrina
Pmstum
Palermo
Pampeluna
Paris
Perugia
Pesaro
Perigueux
Piacenza
Pistoja
Piperno

ALPHABETICAL LIST.

Ancient names.

Mons-Silicus
Vegilia
Narnia, or Nequi-
num
Narbonensis
Condivicum
Netum
Nivernum
Naissus
Nemausus
Nepete
Nursia
Norba
Noviodunum
Novaria
Nuceria
Norica
Orcelis
Aureliani
Hydrantum
Ocriculi, or Ocricu-
lum
Hybla
Patavium
Ticinum
Praeneste
Posidonia
Panormus’
Pompelo
Parisii vel Lutetia
Augusta-Perusia

’ Pesaurum

Petrocorii
Placentia
Pistoria
Privernum

Italia.
Hispania.

, Italia.

Gallia.

Gallia.

Sicilia.

Gallia.
Germania.
Gallia.

Italia.

Italia.

Italia.

Gallia.

Italia.

Magna Graecia.
Germania.
Hispania.
Gallia.

Magna Gracia.

Italia.
Sicilia.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.
Magna Graecia.
Sicilia.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Italia.
Italia.
Gallia.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.

‘ Murcia was likewise called Tadmir; that is, productive (fpahn-trees; with

which the southern part of Sp

ported to contain above two hundred thousand.

ain abounds; there being near Alicant, a forest, re~

Towns.
Pignerol
Pisa
Piombino
Pozzuoli
Poictiers
Porto-Venere
Ponte-Corvo
Prattica
Ratisbon
Ragusa
Resina
Reggio f
Rennes
Rheims
Ricti
Rimini
Rome
Roveredo
Rouen
Rosas, or Roses
Ruvo
Salobrina
Sassina
S. Maria dei Ealeri
S. Donato
S. Vitorino
Salerno
Saragossa
Salamanca t
S. Lucar
Saintes
St. Paul trois Cha-

teaux
St. Quentin

S. lIareo
S. Lorenzo

ALPHABETICAL LIST.

Ancient names.

Pinarolum
Pisa:
Populonia
Puteoli *
Pictavi
Portus-Veneris
Fregellae
Lavinium
Reginum
Epidaurus
Retina
Rhegium Lepidi'
Redones
Durocorturum
Reate
Ariminum
Roma
Roboretum
Rotomagus
Rhoda
Rubi
Selimbena
Sarsina
Falerii
Appii-Forum
Amiternum
Salernum
Caesar-Augusta.
Salamantica
Fanum Luciferi
Santones
Augusta-Tricastri-
norum
Augusta -Veroman-
duorum
C alacta
Laurentum

“ Called, by‘the Greeks, Dicaearchia.
f The birth-place of Ariosto.

t A Roman road may be traced from Salamanca through Merida to Seville.

Gallia.

Italia.

Italia.

Magna Graecia.
'Gallia.

Italia.

Italia.

Italia.
Germania.
Germania.
Magna Graacia.
lVIagna Graecia.
Gallia.

Gallia.

Italia.

Italia.

Italia.
Germania.
Gallia.
Hispania.
Magna Graecia.
HisPania.
Italia.

Italia.

Italia.

Italia.

Magna Greecia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Gallia.

Gallia.
Gallia.

Sicilia.
Italia.

284

Towns.
Saleme
Salpi
Saragusa
Seville
Setuval
Segorbio
Sens
Sezze
Sermoneta
Sienna “
Sisseg
Sorrento
Soissons
Spoleto
Spire
Starmonetta
Susa
Tarracon
Tarento
Tangiers
Tariffa
Tarragona
Termini
Temeswar
Terni
Tertosa
Tivoli
Tiano
Tortona
Torre di Marc
Tours
Toledo
Toulouse
Trepani
T riers, or Treves

ALPHABETICAL LIST.

Augusta-Suessonum
Spoletum
Noviomagus
Sulmo
Segusium
Turiago '
Tarentum
Tin gis
Mellaria
Tarraco 1‘
Thermae
Tibiscus
Interamna
Dertosa
Tibur

. Teanum

Dertona

M etapontum
Turones
Toletum
Tolosa

Eryx

Augusta-Treviro-

rum 1:

Ancient Names.
\ Halicyae Sicilia.

Salpia Magna Graecia.
Syracusa Si cilia.
Hispalis * Hispania. }
Caetobrix Hispania.
Segobriga Hispania.
Senones Gallia.
'Setinum Italia.
Sulmona Italia.
Sena—Julia Italia.

Siscia Germania.
Syrentum Magna Graecia.

Gallia.
Italia.
Germania.
Italia .
Italia.

H ispania.
Magna Graecia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Sicilia.
Germania.
Italia.
Hispanié.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.
Magna Graecia.
Gallia.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Sicilia.

Germania.

* Founded by Scipio Africanus according to some authors; and by others sup-
posed to have been built by the thnicians, and afterward called, by the Romans,

Julia.

f Founded by the Scipios.

t Supposed to be the most ancient city of Europe.

ALPHABETICAL LIST.

285

Germania.
Germania. .

Italia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Gallia.

Magna Graecia.
Hispania.
Gallia.

Magna Graecia.
Italia.
Hispania.
Italia.
Germania.
Italia.

Magna Graecia.
H ispania.
Italia.
Germania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.

Hispania.
Italia.
Gallia.

I talia.

I talia.
Sicilia.

Towns. Ancient Names.
Troyes Augusta-Tricassium Gallia.
Trent Tl‘identum
Trieste Tergeste
Turin ‘ Augusta-Taurino-

rum
Valladolid Pintia
Valencia Valentia
Valence Valentia
Venosa ‘ Venusia*
Vera Urci
Verdun Varodunum
Venafro Venafrum
Venice Venetize
Vegel Besippo
Viterbo Volturnum
Vienna Vindebonna
Vicenza Vicetia
Vicenza Picentia T
Villa-Franca Carthago-Vetus
Volterra Volaterrae
Worms Borbetomagus
Xeres de laFrontera Asta Regia
Xativa Setabis
Zamora Sentice
, Rivers‘ Ancient Names.
Adaja Areva
Adige Athesis, or Atagis
Aisne Axona
Almone Lubricus Ahno
Arno Arnus
Cicabo Cyane
Danube Danubius 3:

* \Vhere Horace was born.
i Near Paestum.

Germania.

I Called at its mouth the Ister.

286

Rivers.
Dauro
Douro
Durande
Ebro
Elbe
Farsa

‘Fiumecino
Foglia
Freddo
Galeso
Garigliano
Garonne
Giaretta
Girona
Guadalete
Guadiana
Guadal quiver
Inne
Isere
Lamo
Liquienza
Loire
Llobregat
Marne
Magra
NIain
D’Ietaro
Mincio
Moselle
Mugnone
Negro
Nera
Ofanto
Ombrone
Pisatella
Po
Pretatore

ALPHABETICAL LIS’I“.

Ancient Names.

Dat-aurum

Durios, or Durius

Druentia
Iberus
Albis

F abaris
Rubicon
Isaurus
Crinisus
Galesus
Liris
Garumna
Simoethus
Gerunda
Lethe
Anas
Boetis
Oenus
Isara
Lamus
Liquentia
Li geris
Rubrigatus
Matrona
Macra
Moenus
M etaurus
Miucius
M osella
Minio
Tanager
Nar
Auﬁdus
Umbro
Rubicon *
Padus
Ufens

‘

Hispania.
Hispania.
Gallia.
Hispania.
Germania.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.
Sicilia.
Italia.
Italia.
Gallia.
Sicilia.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Hispania.
Germania.
Gallia.
Italia.
Italia.
Gallia.
Hispania.
Gallia. _
Italia.
Germania.
Italia.
Italia.
Germania.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.
Magma Gracia.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.
Italia.

“ So denominated because- it iiows into the Rubicon.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF LAKES AND BAYS.

Rivers.
Rhine
Rhone
Saone
Savio
Sarno
Segura
Serchio
Seine
Silaro

Teverone
Tesino
Tevere
Tiferno
Topino

Velino
Volturno
Xenil, or Genil
Xucar

Rhenus
Rhodanus

Arar

Sapis

Sarnus

Terebus, or Tader
Ausar

Sequana

Silarus

Tagus

Anio

Ticinus

Tiberis, or Albula
Tifernus

Tinia

Varus

Velinus
Vulturnus
Singulis

Sucro

Ancient names.

Germania.
Gallia.

Gallia.

Italia.

Magna Graecia.
Hispania.
Italia.

Gallia.

Magna Graecia.
Hispania.
Italia:

Italia.

Italia.

Magna Graecia.
Italia.

Italia.

Italia.

lVIagna Graecia.

Hispania.
Hispania.

 

Lakes and Bays of Italy.

Bolsena, Lake of -
Bonifaccio, Straits of

Bracciano, Lake of

Celano, Lake of -
Chiama, Lake of -

Como, Lake of

Constance, Lake of

Fondi, Lake of
Garda, Lake of
Genoa, Gulf of

Maggiore, Lake of

Manfredonia, Gulf of
Messina, Straits of

Naples, B3) of

Ancient names.
Vulsinus.
Fossa Fretum.
Sabatinus.
Fucinus.

Clanius, or Clany.

Larius.
Brigantinus.
Fundanus.
Benacus.

Mare-Ligustium‘

Verbanus.
Urias Sinus.

Fretum Siculum.

Crater Sinus.

287

288 ALPHABETICAL

Lakes and Bays of Italy.

Perugia, Lake of -
Policastro, Gulf of -
Quarnaro, Gulf of -
Salerno, Gulf of - -
S. Euphemia, Gulf of
Spezzia, Gulf of - -
Squillace, Gulf of
Venice, Gulfof - -

Spain.
Alicant, Bay of - -

LIST OF ISLANDS.

Ancient names.
~ Trasymenus.
Laus Sinus.

- Flanaticus Sinus.
- Saestanus Sinus.

- Hippinates Sinus.
- Portus Lunae.

- Scylacius Sinus.

- Adriaticum Mare.

Ancient name.
- Ilici Sinus.

 

Islands in the ﬁlediterranean Sezz, ancienf/y calla! ﬁlm-e

Capri - - - - -
Corsica - - - - —
Elba, or Elva - -
Hieres - — - - - ‘
Ischia - - - - -
Malta - - - - -
Nisida - - - - -
Procida - - - -
Stromboli - - - -
Sicily ‘- - - - -

“‘ Noticed by Virgil for its mines of iron.

Intern um.

ancientlg Caprw.

Cyrnus.

Ilva *.

Stanchades.
Inarime, or fEnaria.
Melita 1‘.

Nesis.

Prochyta.
Strongyle.
Sicania-Siciliaa.

1‘ Supposed, by some authors, to be the island where Saint Paul was ship-

wrecked.

INDEX.

Page Page
Abano, Baths of, 514 Avalon 50
Abbey of S. Denis 3 Avernus, Lake of, 445
Abbey of Camaldoli 158 Austrian Dominions — Pass-
Abbey del Bosco 204 ports—Money»Post-horses
Abbeville ‘20 -— Best Money to take
Acquapendente 225 from Tuscany into Ger-
Adelsberg appendix 210 many app. {ram 107 to 169
Adrian’s Villa 393 Avignon app. 43
Agata, S. 408 Augsburg app. 188
Agnano, Lake of, 451 Augst app. 190
Agnello, S. app. 119 Auray app. 74-
Aiguebelle app. 122 Aussig 533
Aix-les-Baines app. ib. Autun app. 35
Aix-la-Chapelle app. 203 Auxerre , 49
Aix-en-Provence app. 44 Auxonne 51
Albano 398 Baaden app. 204
Alessandria 203 Baccano 228
Alicant 4 Batlajos app. 216
Alphabetical List of Towns, Bagni (li Lucca 212
SIC. with their ancient Bagni di Pisa 18‘4-
Names, app. from 277 to 283 Baia, Excursion to, 443
Alps, Jura chain, Passage of, 52 Bargains with Innkeepers
Alps, Blaritime, Passage Of, 196 app. 8
Alps, Rhoetian, Passage of, Bar-le-Duc app. 62
app. 158 Barcelona app. 9225
Amiens 21 Basle app. 190
Amsterdam app. 243 Bataglia 514
Amphion, source of, 69 Baths,German, namely,Carls.
Ancona app. 139 batl, Pyrmont, Spa app. 201
Angers app. 75 Baveno 88
Antibes app. 46 Bayonne app. 54
Antiquities between Baccano Beauvais 2
and Rome 229 Bellinzone app. 79
Anvers app. 242 Belgirata 85
Arboga app. 2.58 Benoit, S. Cascade of, app. 124
Arcy, Grottoes of, 49 Bergen app. 26?
Arqua 514 Berlin app. from 178 to 180
Arezzo 507 Bernard, S. Passage of, app. 79
Arona 84- Bergamo app. 142
Aschersleben app. 184 Besancon app 69
Assisi 505 Best mode of getting Napo-
Assens Q49 leons in London app. 276
Asti 2‘02 Best road from Calais to Paris 2
Astroni 452 Bocchetta, Passage of, 205

App]

U

 

290 INDEX.
Page Page
~Bois-le-Duc- app. 24-0 Chamouni, Valley of, 62
Bologna, description of that Champagnole 53
city and its environs--Mas- Chapeau, Excursion to, 64-
ters for the instruction of Charity, a peculiar trait of it, 440
young people 100 Chartres app. 70
Bolsena, Lake of, 226 Chateau of Fontainbleau 47
Town of, ib. Chateauroux app. 52
Bonneville 60 Chaumont app. 64
Bordeaux app. 53 Chéde, Lake of, 61
Borgo S. Donino g5 Cascade of, ib.
Borromean Islands 83 Cherbourg app. 73
Boulogne app. 20 Chiandola, La, 197
and app. 164- Christiania app. 261
Breda app. Q41 Christianstadt app. Q53
Brescia app. 142 Christiansund app. 262
Brest app. .56 Civita Castellana 502
Brieux, S. app. ib. Cleves a 235
rigg 74 Climates of the Continent
Bris, S. 49 app. 1
Brunswick, price of post- Cluse (50
horses, Sic. app. 177 Coimbra app. 214
Brunswick, description of, Col (le Tenébres app. 81
app. 184- Cologne app. 196
Brussels, description of, app. 196 Como, Lake of, app. 79
Budin .533 Coni 199
Buonconvento 225 Conegliano 154-
Burgos app. 2’23 Constance, Lake and town of,
Cadiz app. 232 app. 189
Caduta delle Marmore 503 (.‘Openhagen, and its Envi-
Caen app. 73 mm, description of,
Cahors app. 68 app. 247 and 248
Calais 1 Cora 403
Calais app. 12 Cordova app. 230
Cambray app. 23 Cortona 507
Campo-Marone 205 Country round Florence 104
Camuscia app. 135 Cumte, Excursion to 449
Canal of Languedoc 18 Custom-house between Gex
Capri, description of, 497 and Morez app. 163
Capua 408 Custom-house near Piacenza
Careggi 154 app. 162
Carignano 199 Cuxhaven 545
Carlscrona app. 254 Czaslau 531
Carrara 189 Dantzig app. 187
Caserta, Excursion to, 452 Dejean, and Emery, Voitu—
Cassel app. 198 rins app. 12
Castel-a—Mare 497 Denmark, Money— Price of
Cattolica app. 138 post-horses—Passports, &c.
Cava 481 app. 24-5 and 246
Cenis, Mont, Passage-of, app. 122 Dieppe app. 24
Cenotaph of Cicero 807 Dijon 50
Chalons-sur-Marne app. 6? Diligence from London to
Chambéry app. 39 Paris app. 11
Chamois, its agility and saga- Doccia, Monastery of, 156
city, 67 ole 5l

Domo (l’Ossola, town of,
Diligence thence to
Milan app.

Dovaine, Frontier Custom-

house. of Savoy
Douay app.
Dover—Inn—Custom- house
app.

Dresden, population, architec-
ture, &c.—-Character of the
inhabitants -— Inns — Ob~
jects best worth notice——
Distance from Vienna to
Dresden, and from Dresden
to Hamburg

Dresden, Appendix. lVIoney
of Saxony—Price of post-
horses —-— Weights — Mea-
sures — Hotels—Restaura-
teurs—W'ages of a Valet-
de-Place — Carriages -—Se-
dam-chairs, &c. — Articles
best worth purchasing —
Post-ofﬁce —— Diligences-
Expense of franking Letters

for land 174 and
Dunke‘ls uhl app.
Dunkerque app.
Eboli

Ecclesiastical Territories, price

of post-horses, &c. app.
Echelles app.
Ecksioe app.
Eger app.
Elvas app.
Emden app.
Emissario, near Albano
Encoping app.
Environs of Florence
Erfurt app.
Esseck app.

Etrurians, the ﬁrst Comedians

INDEX.
Page
82 Fiesole
Fiorenzuola
78 Florence, description of that
city
67 Hotels
73 Provisions, water,
climate
165 List of objects best

from 535 to 542

175
188

57
490

86

38
254
202
216
240
399
258
154
182
206

who exhibited in Italy 157
Evian 68
Excursion from Geneva to the

Valley of Chamouni 59

From Plymouth to

Orleans app 14-
Expense attendant upon Con-

tinental travelling app. 13
Faenza app. 137
Famine in the Apennine 214
Fano app. 139
Farm, Horace’s, 396
Ferrara 512

worth notice, as
they lie conti—

guous to each
other
Festas
Environs
Character ofthe Flo-
rentines
Tuscan Peasantry
Anecdote relative
to a poor Found-
ling
Florence, Appendix. Hotels

and private lodg—
ing - houses -—
where to apply
for information
respecting the
latter—Prices of
various articles—
Shops -—— Fire-
wood ~— Fees to
medical men —-—
Masters —— Art-
ists -— Ba nkers—
Best Padrone dz'
Vetture — Post-
Olﬁce — Coun-
try-houses near
Florence
from 99 to
Foligno
Fondi
Fontainbleau, Forest of,
Forli app.
France, tax on English carri-
ages app.
MoneyofFrance app.
Price of Post-horses

app.
Public Diligences,
&c. app.

Messagerie s Cheval

a p.

Distance from Caiais
to Paris app.
Distance from Ostend

291

Page
156

106
149

152
154-

158
ib.

162

105
505
406
137

12
13

15

if
292 . ‘

Page
to Parts; Dieppe to
Paris; and Havre to

Paris app. 20
Frangy app. 122
Frankfort on the Mein app. 183
Frankfort on the Oder app. 186
Frascati, excursion to, 396
Fredericshall app. 260
Frejns app. 45
Freysi'ng app. 191
Fnlde ’ app. 183
Gaéta 407
Garda, Lake of, app. 143
Garigliano 407

Geneva, description of that
town,

Lake of,

Geneva, Appendix. Post-
oﬁice—Expense of living
at Geneva—Diligences—-—
Hotels—Price of Post-
horses to Simplon 77

Genoa, description of—
Hotels—Population—Pr0-
visions — Climate — Cha-
racter of the Genoese

from 190 to 195

56
57

Genlis 51
Gensano 403
Genévre, Mont, passage of,
app. 129
Gex, passports app. 163
Giessen app. 198
Gingoux, S. 69
Gotha app. 182

Gothard, 8., passage of, app. '78
Gottingen, description of", app. 185
Gottingen, excursion thence

to Hartz, app. 200'
Gottenborg app. 259

Granada, description of that
city and the Fortress of

Alhambra app. 928
Gray app. (56
Gratz app. 209
Grenoble app. 67
Grodno app. 274
Groningen app. 243
Grotto-Ferrata 397
Hague, The, app. 237
Halle app. 184

Hamburg, description of,

Hamburg, Appendix. Money
-—Bankers‘ Accounts, 81c.
—Pound weight—Price of
dinner at a table d’hote

543

INDEX.

Page
—-Price of Claret—Cam-
brick the article best worth

purchasing 175
Hanau app. 183
Hanover, price ofpost-horses,

&c. app. 177
Hanover, description of, app. 185
Hannibal’s route into Italy 507
Helvoetsluys app. 239
Herculaneum, excursion to, 455
Hesse, price of Post-horses,

8:0. app. 176
Hollabrun 530
Hyeres app. 51
Jezelsdorf 530

lgau 531
Imola app. 137
Inspruck app. 15S
Ischia, description of that

Island, 499
Itri 406
Judenburg 59
Juliers app. 203
Kaschau app. 208
Kingdom of Naples, price of

ost-horses, &c. a . 87
Kiiigdom ofthe Netherlaiﬁﬁ,

Holland —— Money— Post-

horses--Treckschnyts,&c.--

Expense of travelling post

—-ditto of travelling in a

trcckschuyt— Dutch Inns

app. from 233 to 236
Klagenfurt 5‘24-
Krieglach app. 208

Lago Maggiore 83
Landshut app. 191
Landslebourg app. 124-
La Riccia, or Aricia 400
Laval app. 55
Laufenburg, Fall ofthe Rhine,

V app. 189
Lavininm 403
Laybach app. 209
Leghorn, descrﬁnion of that

town and Port—Inns—

Protestant Chapel 206

Leghorn, Appendix. Prices
of various articles—Things
best worth purchasing—
Provisions—Public convey-
ances from Leghorn to Pisa
-—-Post-oﬂice from 90 to 93

Leipsic, description of that
ctty— Prices— Fairs —-Car-
riages app. 180

INDEX.
Page
Length ofan Italian post app. 84 Merida app.
Leoben 525 Merzhofen
Lerida app. 2‘26 Mestre app.
Lentschau app. £07 Midi, Dent du,
Leuwarden app. 24-3 Milan, description ofthat cit‘y
Leyden app. 236 and its Environs
Liege app. 204 Milan, Appendix. Lodging-
Lille app. 22 houses—Hotels—Carriages
Limoni 199 — Valets-de-place — Boxes
imoges app. 53 atLaScala—Post-oﬁice app.
Linkijping app. 254 Minturnum
Lintz app. 193 lVlisenum
Lisbon, Hotels—description hlittau app.
of the city and its Environs Modena
——-Water—Eatables--Lodg- Mola di Gaéta
ings— Board — Firewood, Molaret app.
&6. app. 212 and 213 Monaco app.
Lodi 93 Blout Anvert
L'Orient app. 74 lVIontauhan app-
Louvain app. 196 iVlont Blane
Lucca, description of that city Monte di F0
-—Inn 208 Nionteﬁascone
Marlia—Road to the Montmelian app.
Bagni di Lucca 210 Monte N uovo
Peasantry—Mode of lVIontereau app.
cultivating this part Montpellier app.
of the Apennine— 1V10nterosi
Villas between the Mont Rose
Baths and the city 214- Monza

Price of post-horses,

85c. app. 86
Lyon app. :36
Macon app. ib.
iMadrid, description of that
city and its Environs

app. 223 and 224-

Maestricht app. 240
IVladgeburg app. 180
Maglan, Valley of, 60
Malaga app. 230
Blantua app. I57
Mahrburg app. 209
IVIarengo 203
Marino, San,Republic of, app. 139
Biartorell app. 225
Marseilles app. 60
:Martigny 7]
Massa di Carrara 189
Massa di Sorretito 496
:Maurice, S. 70

Means of preserving health
duringa longjourney app. 8

Meillerie, Rocks of, 68
Lieissin 54-3
Melun app. 164
Mere de Glace 64

Morclcs, Dent de,

Moscow, description of, app.
Moulins app.
Munich app.
Munster app.
Nanc

y a .
i\:ant d’Arpenas, Cascade (1))le
halite-s _ app.
Naples, Situation, Bay, ZSzc.
Objects best worth notice
~—VVater, climate, society,
Hotels, and Lodging-houses
—-Character of the Nea-
politans—List of objects
best worth notice as they
lie contiguous to each other,
from 409 to
Naples,Appcndix. Passports
—Fees to Custom-house
Ofﬁcers—Money of Naples
—— Exchange — Common
measure —VVeights — Ho-
tels, &c.—Carriages—Ser-
vants’ wages—Price of va-
rious articles —English
warehouses—English me-
dical men —- Masters —

293

Page
216
525
154-

70

87

170
407
44-8
275

l27

104-

164

442

294 INDEX.
Page Page
Boxes at the Theatres— Packets from Falmouth to Lis-
Post-oﬂice from 113 to 119 bon app. 211
Narbonne app. 69 Stralsund to Ystad
Narni 502 app. 253
Naumburg app. 182 Paderborn app. 199
Nepi ’ / ' app. 136 Padua 512
Neptune, Grotto of, at Tivoli, 394 Pzestum, excursion to, 479
Nero, Baths of, 4-4-7 Palestrina 398
Neukirken 52 Pallone, game of, 153
Nevers app. 40 Pamplona app. 221
Nice, description of that city Paris, description of that city
and its climate, 196 and its environs,
Nikcxzping app. 255 Present state of society
Nimegen, or Nymegen app. 235 there,
Nisida 444 Paris, Appendix. Hotels, Sec.
Niort app. 72 ~Eatables and Wine—Re-
Nismes app. 48 staurateurs--Caﬁés--VVages
Nocera 480 of a Valet-de-place—Car-
Nordheim app. 185 riages—Public boatS—Pro-
Nérdlingen app. 188 visions—Shops--Masters——
Norkioping app. 255 English Library and News-
Novara app. [47 papers—Notary public—
Novi 201- English Surgeonv—Apothe-
Novgorod app. 270 caries—Chemists, 8m.—
Nuremburg app. 194 Prices at the Theatres——
Odensee app. 249 MESSageries Royales—Of-
Ofen, or Buda app. 206 ﬁces of the Coche d’eau—é
Oneglia 195 \"oiturins—- General Post-of-
Oporto app. 215 fice—PetitePoste—-froxr126to33
Orleans app. 52 Parma 95
Orvietto, wine of, app. 109 Particulars relative to travel-
Ossaia 506 ling in Italy, app. from 87 to 90
Osoppo 591 Passau app. 193
Ostend app. 198 Passignano 506
Otricoli app. 135 Passports, best mode, on quit-
Puckets from Cuxhaven to ting England, of avoiding
Harwich 545 detention with respect to
Falmouth to the Ble- them, at Paris app. 276
diterranean app. 2 Passports at Paris 44
Doverto Calais app. 9 Passports for returning from
Dover to Ostend app. ib. Rome to England 161
Brighton to Dieppe Pavia 93
ap . 10 Posilipo, Grotto of, 444
Southampton to Havre Perigueux app. 53
app. 11 Perpignan app. 70
Plymouth to Bordeaux Perugia 505
app. ib. Pesaro app. 139
Plymouth to Guern- Pescia 217
se app. 14 Petersburg and its environs
Colchester to Ostend app. from 266 to 269
app. 198 Peterswald 534
Ostend to Harwich app. ib. Pienza, shower ofstones there, 466
Ostend to Margate app. ib. Pietola, birth-place of Virgil,
Helvoetsluys to Har- app. 157
wich app. 239 Piperno 404

INDEX. 295
‘
Page _ Page
Pisa, description of that City, Relms app. ()0
and its environs-——Charac- Rennes 55

ter of the Pisans—Hotels—
Fountain water, Sac—Bat-
tleoftheBridge—Illumina-
tion—-Carnival—~Climate
from 165 to
Pisa, Appendix. Fees to Cus-_
tom-house oﬁicers, Sic—’5
Lodging—houses—Prices of
various articles—Masters—
Fees to medical men, 83c.
-— Post-Ofﬁce— Diligence
from Pisa to Florence

from 93 to 99

Pissevache, cascade of the, 70
Pistoja 217
Plzicenza, or Piacenza 93
Poggibonsi app. 13!
Poggi-a- Cajano 218
Poggi Imperiale 155
Poitiers app. 7 1
Poligny, passports app. 163
Pompeii, excursion to, 463
Ponte Centino 225

Ponteba, Custom-hOuse there, 52!

Ponte Molle 229
l’onte Mammolo 392
Pontine Marshes 40—1-
Ponte Sanguinetto 506
Pordenon 526
Portici 459
Porto-Venere 190
Portugal, money of, app. €11
Portugal, price of draught-
horses, 81c. app. 213
Prato Fiorito 2I3
Pratolino 156
Prague, description ofthat city
-—Inns 532
Prague, Appendix. Articles

best worth purchasing—
Wages of a Valet-de-place

——Carriages 172
Presburg app. 905
Procida 4-99

Prussian dominions—Price of
Post-horses,Sic—Passports

app. 175

guedlinburg app. 184
aab app. 205
Radicofani 225
Ratisbon app. 190
Ravenna app. 138
Reggio 99

a .
Requisites for Invalids, and

Other Travellers, on leaving

England app. 4
Rhine, fall of, in the Rhine-

 

wald, . app. 82
———, at Schauﬂl
hausen app. 189
Riga app. 265
Bimini app. 138
Ringsted app. 248
Rinteln app. 203
R0, church there, 86
Rochelle, La, app. 72
Roeskilde app. 240
Rome, Malaria 230
Best situations 231
Society 232
Excavations made by
the French ib.
Antiquities within the
walls 234-

Antiquities beyond the
PortoSanSebastiano 293
Ditto,beyond the Porta
Pia 300
Ditto,beyondthe Porto
S. Lorenzo
Ditto,beyond the Porta
lVIaggiore
Ditto,beyond the Porta
S. Giovanni
Other Gates
Bridges
Basilica di S. Pietro
Vaticano 31
Palaces, other Churches,
&c. 341
Villas 371
Mosaic manufacture 377
Artists—English me-
dical men—Bankers
—Theatres—Carni-
val,and otheramuse-
ments
Ceremoniesoft-heHoly
Week
Illumination of S. Pe-
ter’s 382
Fireworks ofS.Augelo 383
Days onwhichthe Pope
oﬂiciates in public
Funeral of the Queen
of Spain

303

ib.
304-
307

3'77

380

ibt

384

‘296 INDEX.
0
Page . Page
Entertain mentgiven to Sesto-Calende 85
the Emperor of Au- Sestriéres, Col de, app. 129
stria at the Capitol 386 Seville app. 231
Kindness of the re- Sierra—Population ofthat city
sent Pope to the Bri- — ine —- ater— Eata-
tish nation 387 bles—Character of the Sa-
Promenades —- Hotels nesi — Objects best worth
—-Listofobjects best notice—~Marem ma 224
worth notice as they Sierre 73
liecontiguoustoeach Simplon, The, passage of, 74-
other 388 Sion 72
Rome, Appendix. Current Sleswick app. 249
coins—Bankers’accounts—— Smolensko app. 273
Weight, measures—Hotels Soedertellje app. 255
and other Lodging-houses Soissons app. 58
—Water—Air—-Prices of Sorrento, description of the
various articles — Confec- City and the Plain 491
tioner—Medicines, &c.— Sorremo,Appendix. Lodging-
Masters-—Things bestworth houses—Provisions—Boats
purchasing-—Theatres--En- ——Best mode ofconveying a
glish Reading-room—Un- Family from Naples to Sor-
furnished apartments—Pro- rento—Post-office 1 19

caccio — Best Voiturin -—-

Post-ofiice from 106 to 114
Ronciglione 228
Rosenberg app. 207
Rotterdam app. 238
Roveredo app. 158
Rovigo . 512
Rubicon app. 138

Russia, Money—Priceofpost-
horses— Passports — Order
for post-horses. and other
requisites for Travellers— ‘
Russian Voiturins app. 26-1, 265
Salenche 60

Salerno 48!
S. Jean de Maurienne app. 123
S. Lorenzo nuovo 226
S. Quirico 225
S. Quentin, Tunnel at, app. 59
Samogia app. 137
Saorgio 198
Saragossa app. 222
Savigliano 199
Saxony, price of post-horses,

c. app. 174
Scarena 197
Schaffhausen app. 189
Schlan 533
Schottwien 525
Secheron 59
Sedan app. 60
Segovia app. 215
Semlin app. 207

Spain, Money of—-—Price of
post-horses, &c. -—— Requi—
sites for Travellers in that

country app. from 218 to 221
Sospello 197
Spilimbergo 520
Spilonga 506
Splugen, passage of, app. 81
Spoleto 504-
Stargard app. 186
Stai‘auger app. 262
Stockerau 530
Stockholm, description ofthe

City--Inns——Environs app. 255
Stralsund app. 253
Strasburg app. 63
Straubing app. 194-
$033 app. 127
Sweden, \loney of—Price of

Post-horses, 8Z0.

app. 250 and 251
Switzerland —— Post-horses,
&c.—Best mode of Travel-
ling—Money, 85c. app. ’76

Tagliamento, torrent so called, 520

Tavernettes app. 126
Temple of Clitumnus 504
Tende, Col de, 198
Terracina 405
Terni 503
Tivoli, excursion to, 391
Tokay, wine of, app. 208
Torgau app. 186

INDEX. 297
h
Page . Page
Torre del Greco < 463 notice —- Coffee-houses —-

Torre (Ii mezza Via app. 14-9
Torre della Nunciata 465
Torre di tre Ponte 403
Torrecelli " 225
Torricella app. 135
Tortona app. 136
Toulouse app. 69
Tours app. _71
Trasymenus, Lake of, app. J35
Tourtemagne, Cascade of, 73
Traskirken 525
Trebia, torrent so called 94
Trent app. 158
Treviso 520
Trieste app. 210
Trolhaétta, Cascades of, app. 260
Troyes app. 64-
Turin, description of that city
~Hotels—Cli1nate—Wa-
ter—Environs 199
Tuscany — Price of Post-
horses, 8zc. app. 86
Coins, weights, mea-
sures—:l’rices atHotels
—VVages ofaValet-de-
place 89 and 90
Tusculum 397
Tyrnau app. 207
Valencia app. 222
Valence app. 42
Valladolid app. 223
Vall-OmbmSa 157
Velleia, ruins of, 97
Velletri 403

Venice, Objects best worth
notice there—Inns—VVa-
ter—Promenadcs

from 515 to 520

Venice, Appendix. .Price of
apartments and dinner at
Hotels—Price per day of
a gondola—“rages ofa Va-
let-de—place—Articles best
worth purchasing—Post-

ofﬁce 169
Vercelli app. 148
Verona, description of that

city app. 143
Vesuvius, excursion to, 454
Vezoul app. 65
Vicenza app. I44-
Vico, Lake of, 228

Vienna, Custom-house—Ho-
tels —Objects best worth

App-]

395!

Water -— National dish ~—
Theatres —— Fireworks —
Population-~Distance from
Florence from 526 to 530
Vienna, Appendix. Pound
weight and hraccio—Bmuf ‘
blame, a good Hotel—Prices
there —— Restaurateurs —-
Wages of a _Valet-de-place
-—Carriages ahd sedan chairs
—Medical men—Shops—
Articles best worth pur~
chasing — Prices at the
Opera-house -— Post-ofﬁce

—Di1igences 170 and 171
Vienne app. 42
Via-Reggio ﬂpp. 130
Vietri s 481
Villach ' 522
Vionnaz app. 77
Viterbo 227

Voiturins, common form of
agreements with app.
Voltagglo 205

Voltaire’s villa at Fernay 57

Voyage from Amsterdam to
trecht app. 244-

Bordeuux, up the Ga-

ronne, to Toulouse
app. 18

Dresden, down the
Elbe, to Hamburg .542
Francolino to Venice 514
Genoa t0 Leghorn 206
Genoa to Nice 195

Guernsey to S. Malo
app. 14

Hamburg, down the
Elbe, to Cuxhaven 944

Leghorn to Pisa, by
the canal app. 92

Lyon,downtheRhone
to Avignon app. 47

Ma ence, down the

hine, to Coblentz
app. 199

Naples to Procida and
Ischia 499
Naples to Sorrento 491

Orleans, down the

Loire to Nantes
a p. 14

Ratishon on the lik-
nnbe toVienna app. 178

X

298 INDEX.
1 r
Page ,
VOyage from Sorrento to Paris, through Reims, to
Pompeii. 497 Sedan
Toulouse on the Canal Paris, through Chalons-
of Languedoc to Be- sur-Marne, to Stras-
ziers app. 18 burg
Upsala ' app. 257 Paris to Strasburg, thro’
wrecht app. 236 (Troyes, Langres, Ve-
ater Diligence app. 17 zoul,.Befort,and Basle
Weissenfels app. 182 Paris, through Langres,
Wurtzburg _ ‘Q vapp. .195 to Besangon
Xereé'de la Frontera app. 23! Paris to Grenoble
Yeselles 81 Paris, through Toulouse,
Ystad t. app. 253 to Perpignan
Znaim 530 Paris, through Chartres,
Zwolle app. 240, to La Rochelle
at Paris, through Caen, to
Cherbourg
APMNDIX—ROUTES. Paris, through Rennes,
a, ' to L’Orient
FRANCE. Paris to Nantes

FrornCalais, throughAmiens,

to Paris 20
Calais,throughBeauvais,

to Paris 22
Ostend, through Lille,

to Paris ib.
Dieppe, through Rouen,

to Paris 94
Havre, through Rouen,

to Paris ‘25
Paris, through Dijon, to

Geneva 3?

Lyon to Geneva, by Cer-

don, and S. Germain-

de-Joux 34
Paris, through Lyon, to
Chambery 35

Paris, through Nevers
and B'Ioulins, to Lyon 39
Lyon, through Avignon

and Aix, to Nice 42
Avignon to Nismes and

Montpellier 48
Aix to Marseilles and

Toulon 50
Paris to Bordeaux and

Bayonne 5l
Paris to Brest 54-
Paris to Dunkerque 57
Lille, through Ypres, to

Osteml 58
Lille to Bruxelles ib.
Paris, through Bruxelles,

to ()steud il).

Nantes,th rough Rennes,
to S. Malo

SWITZERLAND.

From Geneva, by the Sim-
plon, to Milan

ITALY.

From Geneva to Chambery

Chambery, Over the
Mont-Cenis, t0 Turin

Nice, through Genoa, to
Pisa

Leghorn, through Pisa,
to Florence

Pisa, through Lucca and
Pistoja, to Florence

Pisa to Modena

Florence, through Siena,
to Rome

Florence, through Peru-
gia, to Rome

Genoa, through Bologna,
Bimini, Sinagalia, An-
cona, Loretto, and
Terni, to Rome

Milan, through Bergamo,
Verona, Vicenza, and
Padua, to Venice, Bo-
logna, and Florence

Milan to Bologna,
through Placenza,Par-

Page

60

\l
\1

J36

{k .
U .i

ma, Reggio, and M0-
dena

Milan to Turin

Aoste to Turin

‘l‘urin, over the Maritime
Alps, to Nice

Turin, over the Boc-
chetta, to Genoa

Rome to Naples

Pisa to Massa and Car-
rara, en voiturier

Rome to Florence,
through Perugia, en
vozturzer

Florence, through Siena,
to Rome, en voiturier

Rome to Naples, en
voilurier

Florence, through Bo-
logna, Venicerienna,
Prague, and Dresden,
to Hamburg

Florence, through lVIan-
tua, and by the Tyrol,
to Cuxhaven

Rome, through Florence
and BIilan, and by the
Simplon, to Geneva,
and over the Jura-
Alps to Poligny, Di-
jon, Melun, Paris, and
Boulogne, en voiturier

GERMANY.

From Hamburg to Berlin
Hamburg to Leipsic
Leipsic to Dresden
Leipsic, through Gotha,

to Frank fort on the
Mein
Leipsic to Brunswick
Brunswick to Hanover
Hanover to Gottingeu
Leipsic to Dantzick
Frankfort on the lVIein
to Augsburg
Augsburg to Constance,
Schaffausen, and Basle
Augsburg to Ratisbon
Ratisbon to Munich
Ratisbon to Prague
Vienna, through Ratis-
bon and Bruxelles, to
Ostend
Frankfort on the Main,

INDEX. 299
Page J Page
' throughCassel, toMun-

147 ster 198

ib. Vienna to Carlsbad,

148 through Eger and Zwoda 202
Hanover to Pyrmont ib.

ib. Hamburg to Pyrmont 203
Bruxelles, through Aix— '

149 la-Chapelle and Liege,

ib. to S ib.

‘ Vienn Baaden 20"

152 Vienna to Presburg ’ ib.

Teutsch Allenburgh to
Belgrade 205

ib. Presburg to Kaschau and
Tokay 207

153 Vienna to Trieste 208

ib. PORTUGAL.

From Lisbon to Oporto 214
Lisbon to Madrid “‘ 215

154 SPAIN.

From Bayonne to Madrid 221.

157 Perpignan to Barcelona 224
Barcelona to Saragossa 225
Madrid to Granada 227
Madrid to Malaga 229
Madrid to Cordova, Se-

ville, and Cadiz 230
Q
161 NETHERLANDS. Q
From Amsterdam to Cleves
and Cologne 235

178 Cleves to the Hague,

180 Rotterdam, and Hel-

18l voetsluys 236
Amsterdam to Munster 239
Amsterdam to Emden 240

ib. Amsterdam to Utrecht,

184 Bois-le-Duc,and Mac-

185 stricht ib.

ib. AmsterdamtoLeyden,the

186 Hague,and Rotterdam 241
Nymeven to Rotterdam

187 andQHelvoetsluys ibe
Nymegen toBois-le-Duc

188 and Breda ib.

190 Bois-le-Duc to Anvers ib.

191 Bergen-op-Zoom to An-

192 vers 242
Amsterdam to Hamburg ib.
Hamburg to Amsterdam

193 byGroningen and Leu-

ib.

warden

300
;
DENMARK.
From Copenhagen to Ham-
burg
Copenhagen to Gothen-
borg
‘
swanmt AND NORWAY.
from Stralsund, hrough
Carlscrona, Stock-
olm

Stockholm f0 Upsala
Stockholm to Gothen-
borg

\

Q

INDEX.
4; "“9
Page ’ o Page
Gothenborg iovChristi-
ania 260
24-8 Christiania to Bergen: 261
249 RUSSIA. *
From Riga to Petersburg 265
Petersburg to Moscow 269
Petersburg to the Fron—
tier of Sweden 272
252 Moscow to Grorlno 273
258 Moscow to Riga and the
Frontier of Prussia 274
ib.
as
THE E3111.
LONDON:

PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, \VIHTEFRIARS.

 

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