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D U S T M A N ’ S
BOOK OF PLANS
AND BUILDING CONSTRUCTION FOR GENERAL
CONTRACTORS AND HOME BUILDERS
CHARLES cPfJBSIHSZAZON c0.
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Copyrighted 1909 and 1910 by

U. M. DUSTMAN, Freeport, Illinois

DESIGNS AND

This book is designed for general contractors and builders, and for prospective
home builders. The contractor can very readily estimate a building by referring to
the different tables and therefore ,save the time of figuring out the different parts of
the building. He can do the work in an hour that usually takes from two to three
days of figuring. This book is offered in response to many inquiries received for
practical construction, exterior designs and interior arrangements. It also teaches
how to read plans drawn by architects and write specifications.

STOCK PLANS:—~The designs shown in this book are stock plans and can be
bought for the price mentioned for each plan.

CHANGES MADE IN STOCK PLANS :—If you do not find a design in this book
that will exactly meet your requirements, you can mark the change you want on
the floor plans, send it to me, and I will give you my price for making the necessary
changes.

SKETCHES:—For the past thirty years I have helped to build and design
residences and store buildings. and I very seldom find a design that exactly meets
the requirements of two persons. You have your own ideas of how you want the
exterior designed and how you want the interior arrangements to suit your own
particular needs. If you will send me a rough pencil sketch of the number of rooms
and the general arrangements of them, I will work out your ideas and submit them
to you for further consideration. Or, if you have not considered any arrangement,
write and tell me the size of your lot, location, whether a corner or inside lot, which
way it fronts, north, south, east or west, number of rooms you want, and about what
amount of money you want to invest in a home; I will then work out your ideas and
submit them to you. For special sketches of this kind, including floor plans and
two elevations, I make a charge of five ($500) dollars to cover cost of labor and
postage.

SAVE MONEY BY GETTING YOUR PLANS DRAWN BY AN ARCHITECT :—-
The money spent to pay an architect for a set of plans is money well spent. You
will save the price of the plans by having the contractors all figure on the same plan.
Each contractor can tell just what you require him to do and he will figure accordingly.

You have your plans and specifications just as you want your house to be and
if the contractor does not follow them, you can compel him to do so before any payment
is made to him. There are very few contractors who would not rather work by
plans drawn by architects for the reason that they know then just what is required
of them to furnish. If any changes are made, they can very readily figure out the
cost and get their price for them and, besides, the owner can not compel them to do
any work that is not shown on the plans or specified in the specifications. In other

' in many different ways to the contractor as well as the owner.

SUGGESTIONS

words the contractor contracts with the owner to build a house according to a certain
set of plans and specifications for a certain amount of money and, if any addi-
tions or deductions are made, the owner and contractor must agree on the price
before the change is made, so that the owner gets what he pays for and the contractor
gets paid for amount of labor and material furnished.

The architects' general advice and sketches are of great value to you in the
general arrangement and treatment. Working plans and specifications are valuable
They save time in
the construction of the work.

KIND OF PLANS FURNISHED :—The kind of plans that I furnish you consist
of basement, first story, second story, roof, front, rear, right and left side elevations,
longitudinal section and detail drawings as shown from page 8 to 17. On page 8 I
show a plan of the basement, giving size of building, location of windows, cross walls,
porch piers, cistern, furnace and furnace pipes, stairs and sewer pipes. On page 0
I show the first story plan for a frame building, showing the location and size of rooms,
stairs, cupboard, sink, etc., also giving the size of the openings. On page 10 I show
the arrangement of the second story plan and the roofs of the porches and bay window.
On page 11 I show the plan of the roof, showing the hips, ridge, chimney and attic
stairs. On page .12 I show the front and rear elevations, also a sectional view, giving
the distance between ceiling, joist, height of basement, grade line, width of joist and
cornice, and pitch of the roof. ‘

On pages 13 and 14 I show the right and left side elevations and on page 15 a
longitudinal section showing the construction of the building which is very necessary
and profitable to the owner and contractor. On pages 16 and 17 I show detail drawings
of the construction of different parts of the building. \Vhen making plans for you, I
furnish you with pencil sketches for your approval before making the final plans.

GUARANTEE OF COST OF BUILDING :——I do not guarantee that a building
built in one location for a certain amount of money can be built in another locality
for the same amount of money, as the difference in the price of material and labor
varies in different localities, so that a building built in Freeport, 111., for $1500 will
probably cost $5000 in some other locality and probably $4000 in another locality.
Hence, it would be impossible for me to guarantee any definite cost of any building.
If you will tell me about what amount of money you want to invest in a home, I shall
use my best judgment to get within the amount specified and at the same time meet
with your requirements, and, if I find that I can not meet your requirements for the
money you want to invest, I shall inform you to that effect and will give-you an
approximate cost of the kind of building that you want.

SPECIFICATIONS:—My specifications are especially prepared for each client,
covering every detail of material and workmanship. A copy of the same will be sent
,to you for correction before the final specifications are written. '

COST OF PLANS :—The cost of stock plans shown in this book are given with
the plans and include a set of specifications. For plans made to order my prices
are two (2%) per cent for residence work and l%% for store, office and factory
buildings. The percentage is based on the estimated cost of the building, which
includes the building complete; this does not include any superintendence. Plans
for a $2500 building will cost $50.00, etc.

HOW TO ORDER PLANS :—-—VVrite to me and give a description of your lot,
arrangement of your building and amount of money you want to invest and I will
give you an estimated cost of the building on which I will base my percentage.

After you have received my price for the plans, enclose 30% of the cost of the
plans with your order as evidence of your good faith. The balance will be payable
on receipt of the plans, which will be sent C. O. D., with privilege of examination at
the express office. When ordering plans that are given in the book, you can order
by giving the number of the plan that you want.

DESCRIPTION OF PLANS :—My plans are all made to a scale of one-quarter of
an inch to the foot and detail drawings are made to a larger scale, not less than
one—half inch to the foot. You will receive four complete sets of blue prints and speci—
fications with each order.

HOW TO READ PLANS:—On the basement plan, you will notice short lines
drawn as at m-n, and a line drawn between these two short lines, with an arrow at
each end, you will also notice the figures 26’—0” on the line between the two arrows.
This denotes that the distance between the two short lines or the distance between
the ends of the arrows is 26 feet and no inches. In this same way you can get the
distance from one point to another, as from the corner of the building A to the angle
of the bay window, as from a to b which is marked 14’—0” and is read fourteen feet
and no inches. From b to c is 3’4)”, three feet and nine inches, and from c to d 5’—6”,
five feet and six inches. The distance from the main building to the outside of the
bay window is two feet as from k to h.

The openings are generally figured from the center of the opening to the center
of another opening or the outside wall, as from the corner A to g, which is 6’~0”, six
feet and no inches from the outside of the wall to the center of the opening or window.
The distance from 1 to k is 18”, which is the thickness of the foundation wall. The
center bearing wall G is marked to be a 9’ ’ brick wall and the center of the wall is
13’—ll” from the outside of the wall A-B. You will also notice that the foundation
wall, where the cellar stairs are, is only 12” thick; this is done so as to give more
width to the stairs without making the first story stairs any wider.

If all the inside measurements are not given, you can scale the blue prints.
allowing one—fourth of an inch to the foot, or four feet to one inch; a building 26 feet
Wide would then scale 26 quarter inches or six and one—half inches. The cistern is to
be a 75 barrel cistern with a 6” tiling to the building, 18” tile neck with iron cover.

On the first story plan you will notice the arrangement of the rooms, such as the
living room with a large window in front and a smaller one at the side. The opening
between the living room and dining room is for sliding doors, each 3 feet wide, making
the opening 0 feet wide when finished. This partition must be double to'allow for
the door-to slide in between them. Where hot air pipes pass through these partitions,
they must be at least'4” in thickness, but where there are no pipes to-pass through
them, the studs can be set flatwise. One side of the partition must be set up and
the track fastened on to this partition before the other side is put in place. The
opening between the living room and reception hall is for a colonnade of which one—
half of it is shown in the detail drawings. The door opening between the dining room
and kitchen is for a double swing door which is shown by the'dotted lines on each
side of the opening.

The front stairs has two risers to the first platform and eight risers from the first
to the second platform which is also shown on the second floor plan. There are
four risers from the kitchen down to the grade platform, which is also shown in
the longitudinal section. On the second floor plan you will notice the roof over the
one story bay window and the front and rear porches. The stairs to the attic are
boxed with a door on the second floor leading to them. They are directly
over the lower stairs. You will notice that the main building on the second floor is
27 feet long, as part of the kitchen is only one story high and is roofed the same as
the rear porch. You will also notice by looking at the elevations and longitudinal
section that there is a second story porch over the kitchen with newel posts and railing;
the floor to this porch is nearly level, just enough slant to have the water run off.

The roof plans show the cornice outline, and the main line of the building; also
the ridges and hips. The attic stairs are also shown on this plan. On page 12 are
shown the front and rear elevations with a sectional View, showing the height of
the ceilings for the basement, first and second stories. You will notice that the
figures between the arrow points show that the basement is 7—0” between the cement
floor and the under part of the first floor joist. The joists are 10” and the distance
between the top of the first floor joist and the bottom of the second floor joist is 9’—2".

The second floor joists are 10” and the height of the second story is 8’—8” between
joist; the attic floor joists are 6”. The stone wall is 2’43” above grade and the top
of the windows are 7-6” from the floor to the top of the window on the first story
and 7’—0” on the second floor. The projection or width of the cornice is 2’—6”. Roof
one-third pitch. The detail drawings will show the construction of the porch and

cornice. Pages 13 and 14 show the right and left side elevations. The left side
elevation shows the one story bay window and gives the general outline of the building.
The right side shows the grade door and the height of the stair platform windows.
On page 15 is shown a longitudinal section, showing part of stairs, cupboard and
location of windows, rafters, etc. On page 16 are detail drawings showing a section
through the front porch main cornice, and dormer windows; also an elevation and
cross section through the dormers and front door frame. On page 17 are shown some
interior details of the colonnade and stairway, kitchen cupboard, side and head
casings. \‘Vith a complete set of specifications and a full set of the drawings as
described on the following pages, any carpenter with a fair knowledge of carpentry
can follow the directions given and put up the building according to plans and
specifications given.

DESCRIPTION AND ARRANGEMENT OF ROOMS

THE HALL :——The front hall in many homes is used only as an entrance to the
building and connecting link between the other rooms and the second floor. In such
a case it is not necessary to have the hall very large, only to give good passage way
to the rooms and stairway. In other homes the hall is made one of the most im—
portant rooms of the house and is used as a reception hall. But, however small the
hall may be, it should receive its share of consideration from the builder and be made
a fitting introduction to the rest of the house. _

LIVING ROOM :——The living room is the room where the family congregate, a
combination of the sitting room and parlor. This room should be the largest in the
house. and should be made the most pleasant. If there is only one fire place in the
house, it should be in the living room. The treatment of the room should be simple,
the woodwork of the room may be oak, yellow pine or birch, but none of them used
in their natural color, but instead should be stained dark. If varnish is used over the
stain it should be rubbed and not have any high gloss finish. Ceiling beams are very
effective in a living room and. when no beams are used, a cornice around the room
next to the ceiling gives the room a very good effect. Openings from the living room
to the hall or dining room should be either a large opening or sliding doors, sliding
doors are preferable as the doors can be closed when desired.

DINING ROOM z—A dining room should not be less than 12 feet in width and
more if the room can be obtained, and not less than 1-1 feet in length. The dining
room, the same as the living room, should have a pleasing effect and good light. It
should have a wainscot a little more than half the distance to the ceiling in height
with a plate rail. A fireplace is also very desirable if the room is large enough.
Ceiling beams and a cornice help the appearance of the room. The picture mould
should always be next to the cornice and not make a separate line around the room.

THE KITCHEN :—A small kitchen conveniently arranged and used for no other
purpose will save a good many steps and is more easily kept clean. The refrigerator
should be so arranged that the ice can be put in from the outside, unless it can be
placed in a rear vestibule. The arrangements of the pantries, cupboards, etc., in the
kitchen are generally planned to suit the housekeeper. as every housekeeper has her
own peculiarities. If possible, the stairs to the basement should be from the kitchen
and lead to a platform having a grade door. In this way the grade door can be used
to go direct to the basement from the outside, without going through the kitchen.
Each bed room should have a large closet; a linen closet in the second story hall is
convenient. The bath room should be at a convenient place on the second floor
and should have a medicine chest; a small closet is also desirable.

A FEW CONVENIENCES

A mirror in a bed room closet door the full size of the door, except the stiles, is
very much appreciated when dressing.

A CLOTHES CHUTE from the second and first floors to the basement laundry
is very convenient and saves a good many steps to the basement The chute can be
made of galvanized iron, a 12-inch pipe is sufficient, but can be made larger when
room can be had.

Two or three drawers in closets come very handy. If the closet is next to an
outside wall, a small window should be put in. Doors to closets should always swing
so that, when the door is open, it will not shut out the light from the closet. Each
closet should have an electric drop light.

The laundry in the basement should have a wood floor on top of the cement
floor, a flue for a laundry stove. a place to empty wash water and a floor drain.

The vegetable room should be separate from the furnace room and laundry,
and should have plenty of shelving.

The coal room should be as near the furnace as possible.

The basement ceiling should be at least 7’6” in the clear, so that the piping can
be done Without interfering with the head room.

LIBRARY :——A special room set aside for reading and writing makes a very
pleasant room if space can be had and not add too much expense to the building.
The size of this room should not be less than 12 by 14 feet and larger if the space can
be had. If it is used as a general reading room, it should form a part of the principal
or living room.

DEN :—Sometimes a small room called a den is set aside for some special purposes.
as for a smoking room. etc. This room should open to the main hall, and should have
plenty of outside ventilation.

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GEOMETRICAL PROBLEMS

To Bisect a Straight Line. Page 15, Fig.1 shows a method of bisecting a straight
line as A—B by using the dividers. Set your dividers with a radius of a little more
than half the distance from A to B; with A as a center describe are as at C and D,
with the same radius and B as a center describe another are intersecting at C and D;
draw a line across the line A—B as shown by the dotted line from C to D and where
the lines intersect will be the center of the line A-B.

Fig. 2. To draw a Perpendicular to a Line from a Point without. To draw a
perpendicular to the line A—B from the point P. take P as centers and a radius more
than the distance from P to the line A-B, describe the arc C—D until it intersects
the line A-B. With C and D as centers and a radius more than D-C, describe arcs
as at E, draw a line from E to P intersecting the line A-B at F, the line P-F will then
be perpendicular to the line A-B.

Fig. 3. To Bisect any given Angle. Take the angle A-O—B. With 0 as a center
and any convenient radius, describe an are as at. D-E. “’ith D-E as centers and a
radius more than half the distance from D to E, describe arcs as at C, draw a line
through 0 and C and you have the center between A and B.

Fig-4. An Equilateral Triangle. The Line A-B being given, how to draw the
Triangle. \l'ith A and B as centers and a radius from A to B, describe arcs intersecting
each other as at C, draw line A to C and B to C which will give the required triangle.

Fig. 5. To Divide any Line into any number of Equal Parts. Suppose the line
A-B were 8 inches long and you wanted to divide it into 9 equal parts; first draw a
line at one end of the line A-B as at B-D perpendicular to the line A-B, take your
rule and hold the end of it even at A and slide the other end along the line B—D until
the figure 9 is even with the line B—D: point off the inch marks along your rule and
draw lines perpendicular from the line A-B to each of these points, and you have the
line A-B divided into 9 equal parts. To divide it into 10 or 12 equal parts follow the
same directions as described for 9 equal parts.

Fig. 6. To Draw an Egg—shaped Oval. Draw a circle as A-G—B—C, draw the
diameter A-B and from the center at O draw a perpendicular line until it intersects
the circle as at C. Draw a straight line from B through C and extend it, say one—half
the distance B—C beyond C, draw another line from A through C the same way. Take
B as a center and B-A as a radius and describe the are from A to D; with A as a center
and the same radius describe the are from B to H; with C as a center and a radius of
C—H connect D and H. giving you the required shape.

Fig. 7. To Pass a Circumference through any Three Points not in the same
Straight Line. Let A, B and C be the given points. \Vith A and B as centers and
any convenient radius, describe arcs intersecting each other as at I-K; with B and C
as centers and the same radius describe arcs as at D and E. Through I-K and through
D and E draw lines intersecting at 0. With 0 as a center and O-A as a radius describe
a circle, and it will pass through A, B and C.

Fig. 8. To Inscribe a regular Pentagon in a given Circle. Draw the circle A-B—C-D
of any convenient size, draw the two diameters A-C and B-D at right angles to each
other. Bisect one of the radii as O-B at I. \Vith I as a center and LA as a radius,

18

describe the arc A-J cutting D-O at J. With A as a center and A-J as a radius describe
an are from J until it intersects with the circle as at H. The chord A—H is then one
side of the pentagon.

Fig. 9. To_ Inscribe a regular Hexagon in a given Circle. With your dividers set
at any convenient radius, describe a circle as at A—B-C-D-E-F; draw the diameter at
D-A. With the dividers set the same as for making the circle and A and D as
centers, describe arcs cutting the circle at B-F and C-E. Join these points by straight
lines and they will form the sides of the hexagon.

Fig. 10. To Inscribe a regular Octagon in a given Circle. With your dividers
set at any convenient radius, describe a circle as A-B-C—D-E-F-G-H; draw the two
diameters at right angles to each other. Bisect one of the 4 equal arcs as A—C at B.
Draw a line from B through the center to F. Bisect A-G as at H and draw a line
from H through the center until it intersects with the circle at D. Now draw straight
lines from A to B, B to C, etc., which will form the required octagon.

Fig. 11. To Draw an Ellipse, the Diameters being given. D—B represents the
long diameter and A—C the short diameter. The diameters must intersect at right
angles to each other in the center 0, so that the distance from O to B is the same as
from O to D and from O to A the same as from 0 to C. \l’ith O as a center and O-C
as a radius, describe the smaller circle. \Vith the same center and 0—D as a radius.
describe the larger circle. Divide the outer circle into any number of equal
parts as shown from B to 9, then draw lines from these points to the center 0.
These lines will divide the inner circle into the same number of parts through the
points of division on the larger circle. Draw vertical lines and on the smaller circle
draw horizontal lines. The points of intersection where these lines meet will be
points on the ellipse, as A, B, C, D, E, F, etc. Tracing a curve through these points
will give you a true ellipse. ,

Fig. 12. Another Method of Drawing an Ellipse. This is drawn by circular arcs
and is not a true ellipse, but is very convenient to draw. Draw the diameters the
same as specified in figure 11. On the axis A-B set off a the same distance from B as
the shorter diameter C-D and divide a—B into three equal parts. \V’ith O as a center
and a radius equal to two of these parts describe arcs cutting the line A—B at d—d’.
With d-d’ as a radius and d-d’ as centers, describe arcs at b’-b. \N'ith the intersections
of these arcs at b’—b as centers and a radius of b’-D describe the arcs c-C-e and g-D-f.
The points c-e and g-f can be found by drawing lines from the arcs at b’—b through d’—d
until they intersect with the arc c-e and g—f. “'ith A and B as centers and a radius
of A-c describe arcs cutting A-B at d’—d; with the same radius and d’-d as centers
describe the arcs connecting the two longer arcs. .

Fig. 13. To Trisect any Angle. Draw any angle as A-B-C. Bisect it as described
in figure 3 and shown by the dotted line A—G. \Vith A as a center and any convenient
radius, as A-E, cut arcs on the line A-B and A-C at E and D. Connect E and D by a
straight line. With H, the intersection of A—G and E—D, as a center and H—D as a
radius, describe the are cutting the line A-G at I. \Vith I as a center and LE as a
radius, describe the are from E to D. \Vith D as a center and I-E as a radius describe
the are from E to D, which will make a quarter circle. \Vith D as a center and the
same radius describe, an are as at J \Vith the same radius and E as a center describe
an are at K. Through intersections of arcs draw lines to A and angle will be trisected

 

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Fig 14. The Height and Width of a Segment being given to find the Radius of
the Arc. Bisect the length a—c as described in Fig. 1, page 19. which will give you the
line d—e. Bisect b-c as at g-h. Prolong the lines g—h and d-e until they intersect as at
O; with 0 as a center and O-b as a radius describe the arc a—b—c which will be the
required segment.

Fig. 15. How to set Studs in a Circle. When a straight sash window is used as
shown in the center of the circle. the studs must. be set parallel to the center line.
“’hen circle sash are used then the jambs of the frame will point towards the center
of the circle and the studs will be set as shown on either side of the center window.

Fig. 16. How to figure the Area of a Gable. The gable shown is 11 feet wide
with a half pitch roof. Half the width of the building being 7 feet and the height or
rise 7 feet, multiply T by T. or half the width of the building by the height of the rise,
and we have the number of square feet in the gable. If there are two gables of the
same size. multiply the width of one gable by the rise or height in the center, and
you will have the area of both gables.

Fig. 17. The Height and Width of a Circle Tower. This shows an elevation of
Fig. 20. By having the height and width given. the cut for the rafters can very easily
be found. Half the width is (3 feet. and the height is 10 feet (3 inches. Taking (i
1nches and 10,143 inches on the square will make the cut; the (i inch-side for the bottom
and the 10% inches. or plumb cut. or the top. Fig. 21 shows how the rafters can be
joined at the top. The rafters D-B will be full length and the rest of them will be cut
shorter, the thickness of the rafters.

Fig. 18. How to cut an Octagon out of a Square Piece of Timber. Take any width
of timber from 12 inches down and this process will give you a true octagon at h-l—k-j.
\Ye have an 8”XS” timber, a-b being the width. Take your rule and make one corner
of it even with the outer edge of the timber as at C and adjust it until the 12—inch
mark is even with the other edge of the timber; now point off at Ski—inch and Slag—inch
marks as at e-f. Draw lines parallel with the sides of the timber by usmg a rule or
other gauge through c and f. which will give you the corners as at m-n. Make gauge
lines on all four sides of the timbers the same distance in from the edge of the timber
and you have the required octagon as J-K-L-M-N-O-P. If the timber is more than
12 inches square, take 7. 17 and 24 inches on the rule.

Fig. 19. A simple way of making a Pattern for an Ellipse. Take a fencing board
a little longer than the width of the opening as at E and nail it to the floor just enough
to hold it in place. Now nail another one as at F perpendicular to the one at E; this
can be done by the use of the steel square. Take the bottom edge of the board E for
the bottom of the spring of the arch. and the right hand side of the board F for the
the center of the opening. Take a strip of wood. say 2 inches wide and a little more
than half the width of the opening, as shown at D. Make a mark at c and e
one-half of the width of the opening apart, then measure in from c the height that
the opening of the ellipse is to be as at d. Drive a nail through the strip at d and e
and bore a small hole large enough for a lead pencil at c. Place the strip with the
nails in as shown, so that e is at the intersection of the two boards and the nail d rests

20

against the under side of the board E; insert a pencil at c. Hold the strip with one
hand at d and the other at e. pull the point 6 along the edge of the board F and keep
the point (1 close to the edge of E until half of the ellipse is made. At g, h and f is
shown the position of the strip after it is pulled down part way. Place boards as shown
at A, B and C, so that the line of the ellipse will keep on the boards. By cutting along
these lines you will have the required ellipse.

Fig. 20. To find the Area of an Octagon Bay Window The distance from A to D
is 15 feet and the projection is -1 feet 5 inches. Drawing a line perpendicular to the
line A-D at the point C, the point C is 4 feet 5 inches from D. leaving a distance of
10 feet 7 inches from the intersection of the line C on the line A-D. Multiply 10 feet

7 inches by 1 feet 5 inches, the distance that the bay projects. and you will have the
area of the bay A-B-C—D.

Fig. 22. Framing a Truss Roof by Trussing each Pair of Rafters. A-A shows the
supports that the rafters rest 011, BB the common rafters, C and F the brace rafters
which should be as heavy as the main rafters. and D the collar beam which is fastened
to the brace rafters and also the main rafters. E shows a vertical brace from ‘he
center of the rafters to the intersection of the brace rafters. A truss built in this way
by using 2”x(i” timbers and half pitch will be strong enough for a 10-foot span,
spacing the rafters 21-inch centers. For a pitch roof less than one—half, the rafters
should be 2”x8”.

Fig. 23. To find the Area of a Half Circle. The diameter from A to B is 12 feet
and the radius is half that length. or 6 feet to C. Multiply the diameter by the radius,
then multiply the quotient by .7854. which will give you the area—ti times 12 equals
72, 72 times .7854 equals 56.54 or 56% square feet. To find the distance around the
half circle from A to B, multiply the diameter 12 by 1.57, which is 18. 84 feet.

Fig. 24. Shows a form of a low Wooden Truss when the building is not more than
40 feet wide. The truss should be about 4 or 5 feet high. The top and bottom
girders A and B being made up of l-2”.\:10” timbers spiked together so as to break
joints and not have two joints come at the same place; the braces C and D should be
spiked between the 2”x10” timbers forming the top and bottom girders. then filled
in between the braces. The trusses should be about 16 feet apart which will give
enough strength to carry a roof. These timbers can be bolted together instead of
being spiked.

Fig. 25 shows another truss for a ~10 feet or more space; the top and bottom
timbers A and B are solid 10”x10” timbers with 4”x8” braces at c. The braces c
are notched into the top and bottom timbers, and iron 2” rods put in as shown with a
heavy washer at the top and bottom. This truss should not be less than 5 feet high.
“'hen building trusses. they should have a crown of at least 1 inch in the center before
there is any weight put on them. “'hen the trusses rest on brick walls they should
have cast iron plates to rest on, the plates should be at least §/4’”x8”x16”. The
timbers A and B can be built up by spiking 5—2”x10” timbers together. If the timbers
are made of one solid timber. a 4.0 foot span will require at least one splice. How to
make splices will be shown on another page.

GEOMETRICAL PROBLEMS AND ROOF TRUSSES

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

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Fig. 26 shows how to Lay off Rafters by using the Steel Square. Take a building
6 feet wide with a gable roof, half of the width of the building will be 3 feet; in a half
pitch‘ roof the height from the peak of the rafters to the plate will be half the width
of the building plus the distance from the outside of the plate on a plumb line with
the outside of the building to the top of the rafters. The roof being half pitch, which
is 12 inch rise to every 12 inches of run, then by taking 12 inches on the tongue and
12 inches on the blade of the' square. the distance across the corner from 12 to 12
would be the length of the rafter for one foot run. In Fig. 26, where half of the
building is 3 feet wide, by taking the square three times as shown from 12 to 12 you
have the length of the rafter to the outside plumb line of the building. Draw the
plumb line, and measure down from the top of the rafter the distance that you want
the rafter to project above the roof. If the pitch of the roof is %, the square can be
used in the same way by taking the rise in inches on the tongue of the square, which

in a third pitch roof is 8 inches, and the run on the blade of the square, which is 12'

inches. and you will have the plumb and level out of the rafter; along the 8—inch
side for the plumb cut and along the 12—inch for the level cut. Any length rafter can
be found in this way by the use of the square _

Fig. 27. To find the Length of a Rafter. Let a—d be half the width of the
building then for a half pitch roof d-c, the rise must equal a—d and a line drawn from
a to c will be the length of the common rafter. This drawing should be made to a
scale of at least one inch to the foot. then measurements can be taken from the
drawing nearly correct. Take your compass and. with a as a center and a-c as a
radius, describe an are as from c to f until it intersects with the extended line a—d.
Draw a line perpendicular from f until it intersects with the extended line b-c at i.
Draw a line from a to i which will be the length of the hip rafter for a half pitch roof.
Suppose the distance from a to d was 13'feet and the pitch one—third, then the rise
would be 8 times 13 inches or 8 feet 8 inches rise to g. Draw a line from a to g and you
will have the length of a common rafter for a third pitch roof. With a as a center
and a-g as a radius, describe the arc g-e until it intersects with the line a-f. Draw a
perpendicular from e to h, which is the same distance as from a to d or half the width
of the building. Draw a line from a to h which will be the length of a hip or valley
rafter for a third pitch roof. Any other pitch can be found in the same way. By
dividing the line i-f into parts equal to the distance that the jack rafters are to be
apart and drawing parallel lines with the line a-f at each space mark from i—f until it
intersects with the line a-i, the length of these short lines will give you the length of
the jack rafters. "

Fig. 28 is part of a plan of a roof showing the lay of the rafters.

Fig. 29 shows how to lay out jack rafters, such as are shown in Fig. 28 between
the hip and valley rafters. This jack is marked for a half pitch roof. In a half
pitch roof the hip and valley rafters do not form a 45 degree orhalf pitch. but as shown
in Fig. 27 where a-f equals the length of the common rafter, f-i equals half the width
of the building and a—i the length of the hip or valley rafter. After the rafters are in
place they form an angle as shown, and in order to have the top of the jack rafter fit
against the hip or valley, they must be cut to this angle for the top cut; the plumb
cut must be the same as the pitch of the roof as the jack rafters always have the
same pitch as the common rafters. We find that 8% inches and 12 inches on the square
will make the cut for the angle a-i-f or a half pitch roof. This is found by taking 12
inches on the blade of the square and making it even with the point at a; lay the
square straight with the line a-i for a half pitch roof. “'here the tongue intersects
with the line a-f will give you the inch mark which we find is 81/3 inches. Lay the
square on the top edge of the timber for the rafter as shown making the figure 12 and

22

8% even with the edge of the timber. The line a-b will be for the top cut. Lay the
timber on the side as shown. From the point b as shown by the dotted line, draw
the plumb line which in a half pitch roof is 12 inches and 12 inches. The bottom cut
at c-d is cut in the same way when jacks run from the valley to the hip rafters, but
where they rest on the plate they are cut the same as for a common rafter.

Fig. 30 at a-b-c-d shows the End Cut of a jack as described in Fig. 29, a-b being
the top of the rafter and b-c the side or plumb cut.

Fig. 31 shows the starting point or where to commence measuring a rafter. The
starting point must always be on a plumb line with the outside of the building as
shown by the dotted line. The line parallel with the top of the plate is called the level
line. The pitch of the roof as shown in Fig. 31 is 11 inches rise to the foot, as shown
by the figure on the square, 11 inches on the plumb line and 12 inches on the level line.

Fig. 32 gives a table giving length of common, hip, valley, jack and octagon
rafters, according to the rise, for a one foot run. The rise is marked in inches in the
first column for a 12—inch run as shown. The second column, giving'the pitch of
the roof. A l—inch rise in 12—inch run, is called a % pitch, 5—inch rise g5; pitch, 6-inch
rise 14 pitch, 8—inch rise }/3 pitch, 12—inch rise %) pitch, etc. In a 12—inch rise the
rise is the same as the run, making a 45 degree angle or a half pitch roof, being % the
width of the building. In a third pitch the rise is 8 inches to the foot. If the building
were 2—1 inches wide with a gable roof and the rise 8 inches, the rise would be one—third
of the width of the building or % pitch. The column marked common rafters gives
the length of a rafter for each foot of run; a building 16 feet wide and a half pitch
roof will then require 8 times the number given opposite the rise or pitch that the
roof is to be, which is 8 times 16.97 inches or 11.31 feet, the length of the common
rafter. A third pitch roof for the same building, takes 8 times 11.42 inches. For
a hip or valley rafter, take the figures in the fourth column and multiply the same
as for the common rafter by half the width of the building. The column marked
octagon rafters gives the length of an octagon as shown in figure 28 as E5, E6, E7
and E8. If the octagon were 12 feet wide and a half pitch roof, the length of the
rafter will be 6 times 17.69 or 106.1—1 inches, which is 8 feet 10}/§ inches, the length
of E5, etc. The length of the rafters between the octagon hips will be found in the
same way as for a common rafter. The column marked cut for octagon rafters, the first
number will be for the level line and the second for the plumb cut. In a half pitch
roof the cut will be 13 and 12, a third pitch roof 13 and 8, the second number always
being the same as the rise to the foot. The column marked cut for jack rafters
gives the out along the hip or valley for jacks as marked in Fig. 29.

The column marked jacks, l2—inch centers is the length of a jack for each foot.
of run. In Fig. 28 find the length of the jacks between the valley No. 2 and hip No. 3.
If the distance from the corner to the angle were —1 feet, the full length jacks will be
«1 times the number opposite the rise or pitch of the roof, as for a third pitch roof
it will be 1 times 14.12 inches. Column marked for jacks, 16—inch centers shows
the length of a jack when spaced 16 inches apart. If the rafters were spaced 16—inch
centers in Fig. 28 from the corner 3 to 1, the first jack would be 16 inches from the
the corner and in a half pitch roof would be 22.63 inches long, the second one from
the corner would be two times 22. 63 inches and the third one three times, etc. The
column marked cut for common rafters shows the plumb and level cuts for common
rafters, 12 inches being the level cut and the second number the plumb cut. When
cutting jack rafters as for hip Nos. 1 and 10, Fig. 28, the top end of the rafters must .
be cut in pairs, one for each side of the hip.

Fig. 33 gives a table showing the same equivalent of a common fraction and
decimal fraction 3; equals .96, 1792‘ equals .92, etc.

 

 

 

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23

BUILDING CONSTRUCTION

Fig. 35 shows one method of Constructing a Box Sill by. spiking two timbers
together around the outside of the building as b—c and laying a plank on the wall for
them to rest on as at a; a 2”x4" as at d is then spiked on top of the joist for the
upright timbers or studs to rest on. The timber C should be spiked to the ends of
joist 6 before the outside timber b is put in place. Sometimes there is only a
single timber put around the outside and the end joist set back as shown in Fig. 36
at b, the 2”x4” studs will then rest on the timber that rests on the wall. This gives
you a joist inside of the studs for your flooring to rest on and saves some labor and
material. '

Fig. 37 shows a solid sill which is in general use. The corners are halved together
as shown at a-b-c—d—e—f by cutting out half of each timber. When framing
timbers, always measure from the top of the timber, then when the timber is framed
and put together, if there should be any difference in the thickness of them, the top
will be even. Notches or gains are generally cut into solid sills for the ends of the
joist to rest in. If the sills are 6”x8” the 6” edge should be up, and if 2”x4” studs
are used the gains should be marked the thickness of the studs or 3%” from the
outside of the timber to the gain. At the bottom of the gain there should be at least
2 inches of the wood remain for the joist to rest on. If 2”x10” joists are used they
are generally framed as shown in Fig. 38, by cutting out a notch as at b-c-d, to rest
in the gain making the distance a—b so that the joist will be 1%” above the sill, which
will also bring the bottom of the joist about even with the bottom of the sill. .A
2”x4” can then be spiked on top of the sill at the end of the joist, which will make
a tight joint and prevent mice from getting up between the walls, which every
builder should take great care to do when putting up a new building.

Fig. 39 shows the projection, as of a bay window, A-A—A being the sills. The
sills around a bay window are generally mitered. The bevel at B-B shows how to
hold the bevel to get the required angle, by making the blade of the bevel even with
the angle on each side of the timber. This can be done by laying one timber across
the other at the required angle as shown by the dotted lines. Another way is to
lay out the required bay on a board at a scale of 14” to the inch. Set your compass
at any convenient space and proceed the same as described in Fig. 3, page 19, to
bisect an angle. The line C—P will be the required angle. Set your bevel to this
line and you have the angle. The 16” marks represent the floor joist spaced 16”
centers. Notice the studs at D-D which should be set so that the inside edges can
be spiked together; the outside sheathing can be cut as shown by putting on one
side and cutting it at an angle on a line with the front of the bay, then let the boards
lap over each other as shown. .

Fig. 40 shows how to lay off an outside wall studding. To find the height of
the ribbon which carries the second story floor joist. The height marked on the
drawing is 9’2” between joist. In this plan we show the top edge of the ribbon board
at F to be %” higher than the bottom of the joist and the second story joist have
notches cut in and fit over the ribbon board. This is done so as to have the joists
all even on top, as they are not always all of the same width and, by measuring from
the top of the joist for the notch, the joists will all be even. Sometimes the ribbon

24

board is put down so that the joist will rest on top of the board without being notched.
The top of the ribbon will then be even with the bottom of the joist. When joists
are notched it is better to make a pattern. Take a 1—inch board about 2 feet long
and the full width of the joist, cut it the same as the end of the joist is to be and
mark the joist by using the pattern. After finding the height of the ribbon, measure
down the width of the ribbon for the gain to be cut into the studding for the ribbon.
The distance from the first floor joist to the second story joist is as marked 9’ 2’ ’ ; if
a plate is nailed on the sill as at C the studs must be cut shorter the thickness of
the 2”x4”. Now allow for the second floor joist which is 9% inches, then 8’2” to
the attic floor joist, allowing for a double plate on top of the studs which is 3%
inches. The measurement from the second story joist to the attic joist must be 8’ 2’ ’
less 3%” or 7’1012”, making the full length of the stud 9’2” less 1%” equals 9’14”
plus 9%” plus 7’10%” or 178%” between top and bottom plates. When framing
studding of this kind, you should always mark the bottom end of the timber with
a heavy pencil, so as to save time when raising the frame work and have the right
end of the studs down. The attic floor joists generally rest on the double plate;
a 2”x4"’ is spiked on top of the attic floor joists for the rafters to rest on.

Fig. 41 shows an outside bearing partition stud with a single plate at the bottom
and a double plate at the top. The full length which is 9’2”, including the plates;
take away 3%” and 1%” for the plates and you have 8’8%” left for the length of
the studs.

Fig. 42 shows the studs at the side of an opening. The opening is more than
four feet wide and requires an extra strong header to carry the weight above. By
spiking two pieces of 2”x8” timbers together as shown at D, it will make a header
strong enough for any opening six feet or less in width, if more than six feet wide
2”x10” timbers should be used. The stud A is put in the full height of the ceiling
and the stud B stops off under the header D to give bearing for D or the header to
rest on. A short piece of studding should be nailed on the outside of the double
studs as at E to nail the ends of the base to, as the casing will cover the thickness
of the two studs and not leave anything to nail the base to. -

Fig. 43, A-A shows the top of a solid sill, B-B-B studs, C-.C the top of gains for
the floor joist.

Fig. 44 shows a side view of the same sill C-C-C, the gains which are 6” down
from the top and 3%” in from the outside of the sill, as shown in Fig. 43, to the gain.
At A is shown a halved joint 4” down from the top. To lay out for the joist, commence
at the left hand end and measure 3/4”, the width of a 2”x4”, from this measure 17”
and then 16”. Always lay your joist on the same side of the space mark which
will bring them 10'” centers. You will notice two joists close together, 3%” apart;
this should be done where there is a hot air pipe to pass through between the joist
into the partition, then it will not be necessary to cut away any timbers. When it
is required to have a longer sill than what timbers can be required, it will be necessary
to make a splice. This splice should be a halved splice and not less than one foot in
length.

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STAIR WORK

Fig. 1. page 27.
four newels. A-B-C-D.

Fig. 2 shows an Elevation of Fig. 1. having six risers to the first platform, five
from the first to the second platform and six from the second platform to the top
landing B. You will notice three winders dotted in on the first platform. To lay
out for the winders take the center of the newel C at O as a center and O—a as a
radius. describe an are from a to b. with the same radius and b as a center, describe
an are cutting a—b at e. with a as a center and the same radius. describe an are cutting
the line a—b at f. By drawing lines from 0 through e and f until they intersect with
the lines a-H and b—H. will give you the exact size of the winders, If you have room
on the rough floor it will be well to lay out the stairs the full size on the floor before
building them. “'hen laying out horses for stairs after the finished floor is laid, the
first riser must be enough smaller to allow for the thickness. of the tread. The stairs
shown have a 7.1/2” rise. the thickness of the tread is Us”. the first cut of the rough
horse must be 71!?” less Us" or ($53” from the finished floor. If the finished floor
is not laid. only the rough floor. then add the thickness of the finished floor to 65g”,
or whatever the rise may be. The landing floor is (713” thick. then the rise next to
the landing must be more than Tlgl, in the rough. as the tread is 1,13” and the floor
Zé” there is a difference of a ‘4”. By making the rough riser next to the landing 7%”,
the finished risers will all be the same height 713” each.

shows a Half Turn Platform Stairs having two platforms and

Fig. 3 shows how to lay off a Stair Horse by using a block for a pattern as shown
at C. The block as shown at C is made the size that the rise and the tread are to be.
This block is cut for a 71/2” rise and a 9” tread as shown at a. the piece C is nailed
on the block a and projects on each side about ,1'2"~ so that. when the block is laid
on the timber as at C. the edge of the piece b will rest against the edge of the timber
and the block a. which is the size of the step. will lay on top of the timber. Mark
along the block a and move it along step by step and your steps will all be marked alike.

Fig. 4 shows how to use the steel square in the same way as the block. but this
takes more work to make it accurate.

Fig. 5 shows a Housed String. A-B being the top edge. Draw a gauge line at c-d
parallel with A—B and about 10 inches from A, for the line of intersection of the treads
and risers. The distance from d to 111 should be about 2 inches to allow room for
wedging the steps. Cut a pattern of the rise and tread as at E. Fig. (5. 7,99” rise and
9” tread. Lay this pattern, so that the line d-e will be on a straight line with c-d.
Fig. .3. and mark the treads and risers as g-i-l. etc. After you have the string laid
out for the treads and risers, cut two more patterns as F and H. F represents the
ends of the tread with allowance made for a wedge to be driven in as shown at o-p-q—r,
etc.. to hold the treads and risers in place. For all 1 15” treads this pattern at b should
be 2” wide and at a 1414”. the projection beyond a is for the nosing which is generally
about 1%”. Bore a hole at c for the center of the rounded nosing. The pattern H
is for the risers. allowance is also made for a wedge, for a 173” riser this pattern should
be 1%” at m and l” at n. Now lay the pattern F on the side string as shown in
Fig. 5, so that the point b will be even with the point 1 and the top edge even with

26

the line i-l. make a mark around the pattern and also mark the hole K for the center
of the rounded nosing. Now mark off for the riser by laying the pattern H on the
string as from g to i. After you have the string marked off, take a 1%” bit and bore
holes for the ends of the nosing as at k, take a knife and cut along the line i-l and i-g
before sawing in. This will give you a clean cut for the treads and risers to fit against.
Saw in %” deep. or the distance the treads are to project into the string for the top
and bottom of the treads, and chisel out the groove; next saw in for the risers and
chisel out. Put in the treads and wedge them with wedges cut to fit. these wedges
should be glued. After the treads are put in place, put the risers in and wedge them
the same way. Sometimes the treads have a groove cut in as at P and a tongue cut
on the riser to fit into the groove, and the reverse at R.

Fig. 7 shows an Open Stair String. The nosing of the tread B is mitered at C for
a return nosing, which is generally done when building an open string stairs. At
A-A are shown dovetail mortises to receive the ends of the balusters. Sometimes
holes are bored into the tread for the balusters instead of dovetails, and sometimes
they are toe—nailed on top of the tread.

. Fig. 8 shows the Floor Plan of Fig. 9. A being the starting newel, B the landing
newel. C an open string and D-E a closed paneled string: a. b and c represent balusters,
the dotted lines between the square ends of the balusters represent the turned part
of the baluster. e shows the end of the return nosing, f the cove under the nosing, H
the floor joist. the dotted line at g-h and i—j represent easing or curved railing. where
they join the newels. d shows a cross—section of the hand railing. l a section of the finish
above the floor around the well hole or opening in the floor to allow head room above
the stairs. k shows a panel around the well hole and m the projection of the newel
below the ceiling. The balusters in between the railing and the closed string are shown
square with a fillet in between them as at O. 0’ gives a cross—section of the same. P
shows the inside string, E the outside panel and r the rough horse. In Fig. 8, a, b
and c show the location of the balusters as a—b-c, Fig. 9, d—e—f—g the face line of the
nosing of the treads. The 3%)” mark at C denotes that the first riser is 3%” in from
the face of the newel and the figure 7 denotes that the newel is 7” wide; the landing
newel being (3” wide and the top riser in the center of the newel. “'hen setting up
a flight of common stairs, where the treads and risers are nailed to the horses. and an
open string as at C, Fig. S). the outside string must be cut for a miter joint for the
risers as at s, Fig. 9. and the top cut square. the end of the rise will then be mitered
to fit against the end string. After the end string is cut and nailed in place, then
cut the risers and nail them in place before putting in the wall string. Next cut
the wall string and lay it on the stair horses against the wall and risers. and take
your compass and scribe along the front of the rise: cut to the scribe mark and your
wall string will fit against the risers. Nail the wall string in place and fit the treads
against the string by scribing. “'hen both sides of the stairs are closed. you can
crowd the treads a little and it will not open the joint of the risers.

 

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SOME RULES FOR DETERMINING TREADS AND RISERS

Multiply the height of the riser by the width of the tread, so that the answer
will be between 64 and 72. The sum of two risers and one tread should not be
less than 21 inches or more than 25 inches The rise should be between 6 and 8
inches, 7 to 7% inches makes a very good rise. The width of the tread should be
determined by the height of the rise. Stone steps without nosing should have treads
not less than 12 inches wide.

HEIGHT OF HAND RAIL z—Hand rails should be about 2’6” above the tread,
straight with the face of the riser. The height of a stair rail should be two feet and
two inches above the tread on a straight line with the face or front of the riser. When
Laying out Stairs, you should find the height of the stairs from one finished floor to
the top of the next finished floor, divide this space into the number of risers requir—
ed, which should not be more than 7% inches or less than 7 inches The run of the
stairs must also be taken into consideration. If the run will not allow for a 7—inch
rise, the rise must be made higher, but where there is plenty of room for the run, a
7—inch rise and a 10—inch tread make a very easy stairway If the run is so that it
requires a smaller tread, a 7%—inch rise and a 9—inch tread makes a very good stairs.
By 9—inch tread we do not mean the width of the finished tread, but the cut of horses;
the width of nosing which is from 114” to 1%” is added to the width of the tread which
will make a 9” tread 101/1)” wide and a 10” tread 111/2” wide. Back stairs are generally
steeper than the front stairs, sometimes an 8” rise is required to get the stairs in a
certain place. Stairs to the basement should be as easy as the front stairs as they
are used quite often. Cellar stairs are frequently built with 2” treads and no risers.

Cellar stairs should have three 2”x12” horses for a three foot stairs and four for a}

four foot stairs. Front stairs should never have less than three 2”x12” horses. When
trimming out a well hole for stairs you should figure to have at least 7’6” of head
room from the stairs to the under side of the angle or corner of the well hole. The
well hole should always be enough wider than the stairs to allow at leastl inches
outside of the stair rail after the work is finished.

On page 29 we show a table giving the size of the tread and the height of the
riser for different heights of stairs. The Height of Stairs has reference to the height
from one finished floor to the top of the next finished fioor. Number of Risers has
reference to the number of risers required for the height given; Height of Rise
gives the height of each riser: Width of Tread, the width of each tread, and the
Length of Run is the space it would require to build the stairs, if they were built in
one straight run. Take the first line of section 2 for a stairs 2’8” high, if 4 risers
were used they would be 8” high and have an 8” tread and require 24” or two
feet run to build the stairs; if 5 risers were used, the rise would be 6-25 inches and
the tread 11 inches, having a run of 3’8”. The 4 risers would do for a rear or back
stairs. but would be too steep for steps to a porch from grade, while the five risers
would be all right for steps to a porch, but would take up too much room for an
inside stairs in a common residence.

EXAMPLE.—--Tak€ a ceiling 9 feet high in the clear and allow 12 inches for the floor
joist, plastering and upper floor and you will have 10 feet for the height of the stairs.
Referring to the table in section 4, we find that in a 10-foot height, if 15 risers were

28

used, the rise would be 8 inches and the tread 8 inches, having a run of 9 feet 4 inches;
if 16 risers, the rise would be 71/; inches and the tread 9 inches and a run of 11 feet 3
inches; if 17 risers were used the rise would be 7117 inches, the tread 10 inches and the
run 13 feet 4 inches; if 18 risers were used, the rise would be 6 % inches, the tread
10% inches and the run 14 feet 10% inches. The 7% inches and 9 inches is most
commonly used in the modern priced residence, while the 17 and 18 risers will make
better stairs for larger buildings where there is more room allowed for the stairs.

TERMS USED IN STAIR WORK

FLIGHT OF STAIRS—A run of stairs or steps from one landing to another.
RUN OF STAIRS—The sum of the Width of the treads.

RISE—The height of each tread.

TREAD—That part of the stairs we step on when going up a flight of stairs.

NOSING——The front edge of the step which is generally rounded and projects
over the riser.
NEWEL—I’osts at the foot and head of stairs to support the railing. A and B,
Fig. 9, show newel posts.

LANDINGflThe top end of a flight of stairs either at the platform or top landing.

OPEN STRING—Where the ends of the steps are open with a return nosing, as
shown at C, Fig 9

CLOSED STRING—Is where the ends of the steps are closed, as shown at
D-E, Fig. 9.

BOX STAIRS—Where there is a partition on each side of the stairs instead of
balusters and railing.

CURTAIL STEP—The first step of a stairs when finished in the form of a scroll.

HOUSING—Is cutting grooves in the wall strings for the steps and risers to fit in,
as shown in Fig. 5

STRINGS—T he pieces that are nailed on the side of the stairs for the treads and
risers to fit against or to be let into.

HORSES#—Are the timbers cut out to fit the stairs;
nailed to the horses.

THREE—QUARTER TURN—~When there are three turns in the stair.
WALL STRING—The string nailed against the wall.
WELL HOLE—T he opening required in the floor to allow for the stairs.

the treads and risers are

TREADS AND RISERS

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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7% s 24 56.1,” 3—8 6-1 11.7.1. 9 6-9 116.1.11 9-2 9-111571gzs 9—4 1117.1, 9 11-3 177 10 13-1 211- 29 85".8 18—8 308 8 19-1' :11 73.- 9 22-6 32 7% 9 223
Section 1. Section 2. Secfion 3. Section 1L

 

 

WINDOW FRAMES

Fig. 1 at A shows a Side Jamb for a Common Window Frame without weights
for a frame building. This kind of frame is not used very often, only in very cheap
work. B shows the edge of the side jamb, F and G the notches cut in to receive the
sill C and head jamb D. The sill C should have a slant of at least 3’3’ of an inch. E
shows a groove plowed in to receive the parting stop which divides the two sash.
At H is shown a cross—section showing the outside casing at a, the jamb at b and the
parting stop at c. The space between the parting stop and the outside casing must
be the same as the thickness of the sash, also the same distance from the parting stop
to the inside stop (1. ‘

To Find the Length of the Side Jambs for a Double Hung or Two Light Window.
Suppose the window to be 24”x26”, two lights, the first number always represents
the width of the glass, then the height would be two times 26” or 52” plus two inches
for the top rail. one inch for the center or dividing rail and three inches for the bottom
rail. making six inches in all. Add 6 inches to 52 inches making the height 58 inches
or 4’10” in all; measure 4’10” from the top or head jamb, allow 33” for the slant of
the sill C, making the inside measurement 3 g" less than 4’10”. The grooves F and G
should be the width of the timbers used for the head'and sill and about 34”” or 33"
- deep. \Vhen cutting the head jamb or sill, take the width of the glass, 24”. and add
4” for the sides of the sash and the distance that the head jamb and sill are let into
the side jambs. which is 3g” on each side, making a1" in all. 24” and 4%”.
equals 29%”, the length of the head. jamb and sill. The outside casing at a projects
over the jamb b }§” to form an outside stop for the sash.

Fig. 2 shows a Cross Section of Fig. 3, a shows the 2”x4”. b the outside sheathing,
' c the jamb or pulley stile. d the outside casing, er the outside window stops. f the
parting stop, h the inside casing, P the inside plastered wall and O the weight
pocket.

Fig. 3 shows a Vertical Section of a Window Frame for a Frame Building. d, e, f,
g, h. j represent the same parts as in Fig. 2. K shows the apron under the window
stool J. l the sill. m the subsill. n a groove cut into the subsill to receive the siding A,
r shows a 2”x4” header under the frame. 5 a cap over the outside head window casing,
t a bed mould under the cap and u the outside head casing. At v is shown the siding
over-the window frame. W the inside head casing, x the cap over the inside casing, y
shows a moulding under the head casing, z a 2”x4” header over the frame. i shows the
location of the axle pulleys which are generally from three to four inches down from
the top of the frame.

Figs. 4 and 5 show Cross and Vertical Sections of a window frame for a 12” brick
wall. A shows the stone sill, B the brick, C the furring, D the grounds to stop OH
the plastering. At a and b is shown the jambs. c the outside casing which also forms
the outside window stop. (1 shows the inside casing to the frame with a groove plowed
in at f to receive the sub—jamb g which is necessary. when 12” or heavier walls are
used. to nail the inside casing h to. At e is shown a quarter round nailed on the

30

outside of the frame and forms a brick mould, the header n is generally made of 2”
lumber and the sill m of 1/16” or 2” lumber. The stool 0 must be wide enough to
allow for the inside casing to rest on; P shows the apron. The stone sill A must be
wide enough'to project at least one inch on the outside of the brick and also be about
two inches under the sill m.

Figs. (3 and 7 show a Door Frame for a Frame Building. A shows the studding.
B the outside sheathing, C the inside sheathing or plastering, D the door jamb, E the
outside casing, F the inside casing. a and b show the grooves cut into the side jamb to
receive the head jamb C and sill d. The sill should have about 5%” slant out, and
should be wide enough to project an inch outside of the casing.

Fig. 8 shows a Vertical Section of a Door Frame from a brick building with a
wood sill. “'hen a wood sill is used in a brick wall the jambs are generally let into
the sill as shown by the dotted lines a-b, the grooves a-b to be cut into the sill the
same width and thickness as the door jamb. C shows the head jamb, D the brick
mould and B the brick reveal. When lines are drawn through a drawing as at c-d,
they indicate that the drawing is cut in two and is not a full sized drawing.

Fig. 9 shows a view at the inside of the frame shown in Fig. 8, A being the head
jamb, B the sill and C the side jamb.

Fig. 10 shows a cross section of the side jamb of a door frame for a brick wall,
A shows the brick work, B the stone sill, a—b-c—d a wood block laid in the wall next to
the jamb to spike the jamb to. “'ood blocks should be made the same thickness
as the brick and mortar and laid dry without mortar, next to the wood frame. Some—
times frames have a rabbet cut out on the inside edge as at e-f for the door to fit
against instead of nailing on a door stop as at g. The thickness of the door has to be
known so as to have the rabbet the same as the thickness of the door. The dotted
lines at i. j and k show a square brick mould which is generally used on window frames
when blinds are used. to hang the blinds to: the moulding is generally 1}3”x2".
At h shows a stop which is sometimes put on the frame for the screen door to strike
against.

Fig. 11 at A shows the head jamb of Fig. 10, at B a cross—section of the same
showing the groove at C for the side jamb. The dotted line at a-b represents the
depth that the groove is cut into the head jamb. You will notice that the quarter
round D projects above the head jamb A; this is done by setting the quarter round
or brick mould back [19” from the face edge of the jamb.

Figs. 12 and 13 show how to lay out a sill and head jamb for a window frame as
shown in Fig. 5; at A the head jamb and at B the sill. You will notice the head jamb
A is the same width the whole length, but the sill B is 73’” wider than the head jamb
and will require a notch cut out as at a—b-c-d for the outside casing of the frame as
shown at c, Fig. 4. This casing forming the outside stop. must project past the
groove D, or the side jamb, at least one—half of an inch. The end of the sill and head
jamb will not require any groove to receive the outside jamb E, as the jamb can be
nailed to the ends as shown at E. The space between the jamb D and E should be
about 2,913” to give plenty of room for the weights. When plowing for the parting
stop of a window frame always allow about one-sixteenth of an inch for play of the
sash, when the sash are painted and, if oil finish, less space will do.

 

WINDOW FRAMES

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MULTIPLICATION TABLE

 

51. ‘ 61 69 78 76

 

45
86 102 138 146 152

141 122

 

129 153 171 199 207 219 228

 

172 204 244 262 I 276 292 304

 

'35

215 255 285 305 310 325 320 345 350 365 380

 

72

258 306 342 366 . 372 388 414 438 456

 

84

301 315 322‘ 357 399 413 427 434 451 483 497 511 532

 

96

344 360 408 456 472 496 514 552 584 608

 

108

387 405 459 513 531 549 567 621 639 657 666 684

064091535111

 

120 310

430 450 510 570 590 610 620 630 690 710 720 730 740 750 760

...
O

 

121 132 231 341

473 495 561 627 649 671 682 693 759 781 792 803 814 836

1.
.-

 

108 132 144

516 540 612 684 708 732 744 756 828 852 864 876 912

924

1.2

 

117 143 156 2': 416

559 585 611 663 741 764 793 806 819 871 884 897 910 923 936 949 962 988

1001

 

126 154 168

592 030 714 798 826 854 868 882 938 952 966 981) 994100810221036 1064

1078

14

 

60 135 165 180

645 675 765 855 885 915 930 945 975 1005 1020 1035 1050 1065 1080 1095 1110 1140

1155

15

 

176 192 416

720 816 912 944 960 976 992 1008 1024 1040 1056 1072 1088 1104 1120 1136 1152 1168 1184 1200 1216

1232

16

 

102 153 187 204 442 612

714 765 867 952 969 1003 1020 1037 1054 1071 1088 1105 1122 1139 1156 1173 1190 1207 1224 1241 1258 1275 1292

1 309

17

 

72 108 162 198 216

756 810 918 1008 1026 1044 1062 1080 1098 1116 1134 1152 1170 1188 1206 1224 1242 1260 1278 12913 1314 1332 1350 1368

1386

 

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76 114 171 1209 228 494 741

798 855 950 969 1007 1026 1045 1064 1083 1102 1121 1140 1159 1178 1197 1216 1235 1254 1273 1292 1311 1330 1340 1368 1387 1406 14:5 1444

18

{51:59

 

8

80 100 120 220 240 520

840 900 1000 1020 1040 1060 1080 1100 1120 1140 1160 1180 1200 1220 1240 12110 1280 1300 1320 1340 1360 1380 1400 1420 1440 1460 1480 1500 1520

1540

20

 

84 105 126 231 252 546

861

882 945 987 1008 1029 1050 1071 1092 1113 1134 1155 1176 1197 1218 1239 1200 1281 1302 11123 1344 1365 1386 1407 1428 1449 1470 1491 1512 1533 1554 1575 15.16

 

88 110 132 242 264 286 418 572

990 1012 1034 1056 1078 1100 1122 1144 1166 1188 1210 1232 1254 1276 1298 1320 1342 1364 1380 1408 1430 1452 1474 1496 1518 1540 1562 1584 1606 1028 11150 1672

 

1017

1604

21

22

 

138 253 276 299 598

989 1035 1058 1081 1104 1127 1150 1173 1196 1219 1242 1265 1288 1311 1334 1357 1380 1403 1426 1449 1472 1495 1518 1541 1564 1587 1610 1633 1056 1679 17022 1725 1748

1771

 

96 120 144 240 264 288 312 024 816

984

1032 1080 1104 1128 1152 1176 1200 1224 1248 1272 1296 1320 1344 1368 1392 1416 1440 1464 1488 1512 1536 1560 1584 1608 163:} 1656 1680 1704 1728 175’: 17715 1800 182-1

1848

24

 

100 125 150 250 275 300 325 825 850

1025

1075 1125 1150 1175 1200 1225 1250 1275 1300 1325 1350 1375 1400 1425 1450 1475 1500 1525 1550 1575 1600 1625 1650 1075 1700 1725 1750 1775 1800 18:15 1850 1875 1900

1925

 

104 130. 156 260 286 312 676 858 884

1066

1092 1118 1144 1170 1196 1222 1248 1274 1300 1326 1352 1378 1404 1430 1456 1482 1508 1534 1560 1586 1012 1638 1664 1690 1716 1742 1768 1794 1820 [8-16 1872 1895 1924 1950 1076

2002

 

108 135 162 297 324 351 702 891 918 1026

1107

1134 1161 1188 1215 1242 1269 1296 1323 1350 1377 1404 1431 1458 1485 1512 1539 1566 1593 1620 1647 1674 1701 1728 1755 1782 1809 1830 1863 1890 1017 1944 1971 1998 2025 2052

2079

 

112 140 168 ”“9 '1'" '1” 728 924 952 1036 1064

 

1148

1176 1204 1232 1288 1316 1344 1372 1400 1428 1456 1484 1212 1540 1568 1596 1624 1652 1680 1708 1736 1764 1792 1820 1848 1876 1904 1932 1960 1988 2016 2044 3072 2100 2128

2156

 

116 145 174 319 348 377 754 957 986 1073 1102 1131

1189

1218 1247 1276 1344 1363 1392 1421 1450 1479 1508 1537 1566 1595 1624 1653 1682 1711 1740 1769 1798 1827 1850 1885 1914 1948 1972 2001 2030 2059 2088 2117 2146 2175 2204

2233

 

120 150 180 '13" 360 390 780 990 1020- 1110 1140 1170

 

1230

1260 1290 1320 1380 1410 1440 1470 1500 1530 1560 1590 1620 1650 1680 1710 1740 1770 1800 1830 1860 1890 1920 1950 1980 2010 2040 2070 2100 2130 2160 2190 23220 2250 2280

2310

 

124 155 186 217 341 372 403 651 992 1023 1054 1085 1147 1178 1209

1240

1‘271

1302 1333 1364 1395 1420 1457 1488 1519 1581 1612 1643 1674 1705 1736 1767 1798 1829 1860 1891 1922 1953 1984 2015 2046 2077 2108 2139 2170 2201 232 2263 2294 21125 2350

2387

 

, 128 160 192 224 352 384 416 832 1024 1050 1088 1120 118-1 1216 1248

1280

1312

1344 1376 1408 1440 1472 1504 1536 1568 1632 1664 1696 1728 1760 1792 1824 1856 1888 1920 1952 1984 2016 2048 2080 2112 2144 2176 2208 2240 ‘ 2304 2336 2368 2400 2432

246-1

 

132 165 198 231 363 396 429 594 858 891 990 1050 1089 1122 1155 1221 1254 1287

1353

1386 1419 1452 1485 1518 1551 1584 1617 1683 1716 1749 1782 1815 1848 1881 1914 1947 1980 2013 2046 2079 2 2145 2178 2211 2244 2277 2310 2376 2409 2442 2475 2508

254 1

 

1.36 170 204 238 374 408 442 612 1584 018 986 1020 1088 1122 1150 1190 1258 1202 1326

1394

1428 1462 1496 1530 1504 1598 1632 1666 1734 1768 1802 1836 1870 1904 1938 1972 2000 2040 2074 2108 2142 2210 2244 2278 2312 2346 2380 2414 2448 2482 2510 2550 ‘

2618

 

140 175 210 245 ””5 4"“ ‘5‘ 630 910 945 1015 1050 1085 1120 1155 1190 1225 1200 1295 1330 1365

 

 

1435

1470 1505 1540 1575 1610 1645 1080 1715 1855 1890 1925 1060 1995 2030 2065 2135 2170 2205 2240 2275 2310 2345 2380 2415 2450 2485 2520 955% “son 2625 2660

 

1785 1820 2100

2695

 

252 2°“ "’2 4"" 648 864 936 972 1044 1080 1116 1152 1188 1224 1260 1206 1332 1368 1404

 

144 180 216

1476

1020 1650 1692 1944 2124 2100 2196 2232 2268 2304 2340 2376 2412 2448 2484 2520 2556 2592 9‘98 9664 1700 2736

 

1512 1548 1584 1728 1764 1830 1872 1908 1080 2010 2052 2088

2772

36

 

1406 1443

 

148 185 222 259 "0“ 407 444 481 0116 888 962 990 1036 10711 1110 1147 1184 1221 1258 1295 1332 1369

 

1517

2553 2590 21127 2664 2701 2738 2775 2812

 

1554 1591 1028 1665 1702 1739 1776 1813 1887 1924 1901 . mu In) 111.. 2109 2140 2183 2220 2257 2204 2331 2368 2405 2442 2479 2516

 

2849

37

 

304 342 4‘“ “A “M 684 912 1:38 1026 10154 1102 1140 1178 1210 1254 12112 13311 13158 1406 1444 I482

 

152 190 228 266

1558

1590 1034 1672 1710 1748 1786 1824 1862 1938 1976 2014 2052 2000 2128 2166 2204 2242 2280 2318 2356 2394 2432 2470 2508 2546 2584 2622 2060 2698 2736 2774 2812 2850 2888

2926

36

 

312 351 4"“ “m 702 741 936 1014 1053 1092 1131 1170 1209 1248 1287 1326 1365 1404 1443 1482 1521

 

195 234 271 507 .

1599

2613 2652 2691 2730 2769 2808 2847 2886 2925 296-1

 

1638 1677 1716 1755 1794 1833 1872 1911 1141517 -uaa 2007 2106 2145 2184 2223 2262 2301 2340 2379 2418 2457 2496 2535 2574

3003

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360 "m 720 1000 10-10 1080 1120 1160 1200 1240 1280 1320 1360 1400 1440 1480 1520 1560

 

160 200 240 280 320

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1640

2680 2720 2700 2800 2840 2880 2920 2960 3000 3'14"

alum

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1680 1720 1760 1800 1840 1880 1920 1900 2040 2080 2120 2160 ‘ 2240 2280 2320 2360 2400 2440 2480 2520 2560 2600 2640

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STORE FRONTS

Fig. 1 shows one style of Store Front Construction of metal facing with wood
backing. In this style of construction it is necessary to have copper gutters on the
inside of the glass to carry off the water that accumulates on the inside of the glass;
this water should be either run into the basement or on the outside walk. The metal
facing is screwed to the wood backing and should be % of an inch in thickness and
from 2 to 3 inches in width. Sometimes the sash below the bulkhead are made to
swing at the top, as shown in the figure to the right of Fig. 1. The sash for a wood
backed front are made of wood, while in an all iron front they are made of iron.

Fig. 2 shows one style of an All Iron Construction with metal panels. The bulk-
head is always built of wood. The front shown here is not ventilated and also requires
metal gutters inside. All metal fronts should be ventilated. There are several

32

makes of store fronts that have patented ventilated bars. Love Bros, Incorporated,
of Aurora, Illinois. make a very good ventilated front; by writing to them they
will send you details showing the construction of their work. The small figure above
Fig. 2 shows how and where to fasten a Pin Anchor to a joist, also how to cut the
ends of a joist for a brick wall.

Fig. 3 shows an All Wood Construction of a store front by using wood sash.
You will notice that the sash are cut square and stops put on each side of the glass.
Store fronts should always be made so as to set the glass from the outside, then
it will not be necessary to disturb the work on the inside when setting glass.

Fig. 4 shows another front of Wood Construction With Metal Facing. This front

can be ventilated. as shown, by boring holes through the horizontal 2X15. You
will notice that the sash below the bulkhead is set back the width of a 2x4; :1 2x4
should be put vertical every 3 or 4 feet under the bulkhead to support the glass.

CONSTRUCTION OF STORE FRONTS

       

      
 

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33

MULTIPLICATION TABLE

31828384353831”39404142”““40474849505152536‘0560515060000109630406006108091011121014101077

1394 15
1428
731 1462
1490
765 ” 1530
1564

1512

1548 1591 1634
1584 1023

1620 1605 17
782 104 1656 1702

799 ' 1128 1598 1092 1739
816 864 1152
833 882 1176
900 1100 1150 1200
807 918

SS4 936

1632

1728 1770
1764 1813
1800 1850
1836 1887
1872 1924
1802 1855 1908 1961
1836 1890 1944 1998
1870 1925 1980

1904 1900 2010

1938 1995

1078 1 1666
1700
1122 1173 1224 1377 1734
1404

1431 1484

1144 1196 1248 1708
901 954 1007
918 972 1026
935 990 1045

952 1008 1064

1166 1219 1272
1188 1242 1296 ‘ 1458
' 1210 1265 1320 1375 1485
1232 1288 1344 1400 15 1792
‘ 969 1026 1083
' 986 1044 1102
1003 1062 1121
1020 1140
1037 1159 1220 1281
1054 1178 1302
1071 1

1088 152

1254 1311 1368 1425
1276 1334 1392 1450
1357 1416 1475

1539 1824

1566 1682

1711

1856 19 1972

1598 1888 2000
1500 1820
1047
1074
1701

1728

1380 1740 2040

1403 1464 1525 2074
1426 1488 1550
1449 1512 1575

1472 1536 1600

2108
2142
2176
2210

STORE FRONTS

The transom bar is also set out about 3 inches with holes for ventilation. This makes
a very good front for a wood construction. \Vood constructed store fronts should
be made of soft pine and well painted. Metal fronts should be of copper when thin
coverings are put on wood, and of cast iron when an all metal front. \Vood covered
with metal makes a very good store front. Several of these metal fronts, which
give good results, are on the market, made by different manufacturers and patented.

The plan shown on the left hand side of page 35 shows a Wood Sash Store Front
and is made for a building 20 feet wide with party walls. The store has a side entrance,
one door leading to the second floor and the other to the store room. Sometimes
the stairs are brought out as shown in the other store plan and the side entrance to
the store is placed on the opposite side of the building from the stairs. Notice the
sectional View of this building giving the height of the ceilings; the height of the
roof will be according to the length of the building. The projection for the cornice
can be made of metal, wood, stone or terra cotta. The top can be cap stone, terra
cotta or tile coping. The store front and floor plan of the front on the right hand
side has the store entrance in the center of the store room, which will give two show

 

34

-which is then set the same as a light of glass.

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Windows instead of one, but smaller. The two windows are better when it is necessary
to show two different kinds of goods, say Jewelry store on one side and Stationery
on the other side. The vestibule floor to the front entrance is sometimes made of
iron, sometimes of concrete and tiled, but very seldom of wood. The cornice projection
for this building is at the top of the wall and can be made of galvanized iron or copper.
Both of these store fronts show prism lights in small squares of about —l inches square.
If the store room is (30 feet or more deep, these prism lights will light up the center
part of the store. Sometimes sheet prisms are used instead, but they do not give as
good satisfaction as the smaller lights. The small lights are put into a copper frame
\Vhen the store room is short, 40 feet
or less, then plate glass can be used instead of prism, and sometimes there is no transom
bar put in and the glass extends to the top. Below the bulkhead it is sometimes
necessary to have glass in order to give light to the basement; these sash are sometimes
hung so as to give ventilation in the basement which is very necessary. The front
entrance door used to be double doors, but of late the front entrance is made of only
one wide door, usually 3 feet 6 inches. The single door is better than the double
doors, as double doors always let in plenty of cold; a single door can be made to stay
in its place better, and it is also better to have one screen door than two. The
multiplication table on this page is a continuation of the table on page 32.

STORE 'FRONTS

 

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BRICK WORK

Fig. 1 shows a Flemish Bond in brick laying. The courses are laid with a stretcher
and headers alternate in each course. In Fig. 1 A shows the stretchers and B the
headers; this makes a very strong bond but is very seldom used. Small pieces must be
put in as at C to start the bond right.

Fig. 2 shows an English Bond and has a course of stretchers and then a course of
headers alternate. A represents the stretchers and B the headers; this bond, like
the Flemish bond, also requires a small piece for filling in and is very seldom used in
this country.

Fig. 3 shows a Common Bond mostly used in brick work. The headers H are
laid about every sixth course with the stretchers S between them. When laying
pressed brick, the work looks better if the face brick are all stretchers. and when
laying them all stretchers. they must be bond in some other way than by putting in
headers. Fig. 3 at A shows one way of bonding the face brick, by cutting off the
back corner of the brick and laying brick cornerwise as shown at A. At B shows
another way, by laying metal ties as shown from the face brick to the common brick
backing. The face brick should have a bond every fifth or sixth course.

Fig. 4 at A shows a regular coursed Ashler and at B an irregular coursed.

Fig. 5 shows a vertical section of a brick wall on a cement footing C. This section
shows how to fasten the iron anchors as at B. Anchors should be spiked to the joist,
one to every fourth or fifth one and close to the bottom of the joist, then the pin a will
be below the joist and, if the joist should break in the center and fall down, the anchor
would pull through the same hole that the joist came out of without tearing any
extra wall down. The ends of the joist should be cut as shown, having the ends
slanting, so when they break in the center they will pull out without doing any damage
to the wall. At b is shown a water table, which is generally on line with the first
floor joist.

Fig. 6 shows the thickness of a wall 50 feet high and Fig. 7 a wall 45 feet high;
these walls as shown are strong enough for a store and office building of the height
shown, when there are cross partitions to stiffen the building.

Figs. 8, 9 and 10 show walls strong enough for residence buildings. Figs. 8 and 9
will be strong enough for store rooms on the first floor, if they are not more than 24
feet wide.

Fig. 11 shows a wall 32 feet high and 12 inches thick; if the building is not more
than 20 feet wide this wall will do for a two story store building.

Fig. 12 shows a wall 16 inches thick two stories and 12 inches two stories; this
wall is strong enough for factory purposes. When a dancing or lodge hall is built on
the third floor of a building with a high ceiling, one of the outside walls should be 16
inches thick all the way up, especially if the room is more than 60 feet Wide without
any partitions or supports; 8 inch walls should not be used only where there are plenty
of cross partitions to stiffen the walls. ‘

Fig. 13 shows the top end of a window frame at c, wood lintels at B and a steel
angle at A for the brick work D to rest on.

Steel angles are used to span the openings, as _

36

shown in Fig. 14 at A and the brick laid straight across the opening. Sometimes iron lin-
tels are used instead of wood, but the expense is greater and they are, therefore, seldom
used only in good work; the wood is liable to shrink and cause a crack in the brick
work. When brick arches or stone caps are used over the openings they also require
a lintel back of them. Sometimes segment arches are built over openings and, if
built the full width of the wall, they will not require any lintels. The segment arches
should have a rise of about 4 inches in the center for a three-foot opening and for
larger openings in the same proportion.

Fig. 15 shows a good way of striking a joint between brick.

Fig. 16 shows another way, but should not be allowed to be used, as the water
catches along the edge of the brick and soaks into the brick more than if struck as
shown in Fig. 15.

Fig. 17 shows a raised joint and Fig. 19 a hollow or concave joint. The masons
have especially prepared tools to make these joints. When doing common brick
work the joints are generally from 93;” to %” thick, while with pressed brick they
are from 13,7, to 1/4” thick. When laying pressed brick the mortar is generally spread
on the brick before it is laid in the wall, which is called a buttered joint.

Fig. 19 shows a section of a brick cornice as shown in Fig. 20, with a stone cap A.
Sometimes a tile coping is put on top of the wall for a cap, as shown in Fig. 22 at A,
but it is better for the water to run back on the roof than to run down over the front.
When building a metal cornice, the top or roof of the cornice should always slant
back, so that the water will run onto the roof.

Fig. 20 shows a front elevation of Fig. 19, A-A showing the line of the wall as at D,
Fig. 19, B the corbels as shown in Fig 19 and C the dental blocks. You will notice
by the section that the course below the dental is set out % inch and that dental
blocks project % inch beyond the brick course a. The first course above the dental
blocks projects one inch beyond the dentals. The projections can all be measured on
the section using a scale of one inch to the foot.

Fig. 21 shows a brick pier with a concrete footing at A, B-B being the brick work
and C and D are cut stone put in the pier to bind the brick together. \Vhen brick
piers are 12 feet high or over, they should have at least one stone the same size of the
pier to protect the pier and help hold it together. If the pier is very high, it should
have a binding stone 4 inches thick every three or four feet in height.

Fig. 22 shows a 12—inch brick wall corbeled out at c to receive the metal cornice B,
a 2”x4” is laid in the wall as at D to nail the lookouts to, that hold the cornice. The
brackets or lookouts are generally fastened to the metal before they are put in place.
After the cornice is set in place, build the brick wall above the cornice. A shows a
tile coping which comes in two—foot lengths and is laid in cement mortar; these tilings
can be had for a 8, 12 or 16—inch brick wall. When laying door or window sills in a
brick wall, the mortar should be put only under the ends of the sill and not any in
the center; the weight on the ends of the sill will settle the ends, and if there were
mortar in the center it would cause the sill to break at the center, as there would not
be sufficient weight in the center to press the sill down as at the ends where the upper
brick work rests on. After the building is completed, then you can fill in under the
center of the sills.

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WINDOW FRAMES FOR BRICK WALLS

Fig. 1. Plan of Box Frame for Brick Veneer Wall. The drawing shows a cross
section of half of a window frame, showing the stone sill, l” brick wall, Jé” air space
between brick and sheathing, 2”x—l" studding, plastering, casing, frame, and brick
mould.

Fig. 2 shows the Longitudinal Section of the same Frame. The stone sill is
5”x5%”. When putting up a frame or brick veneer, the frame work must be set
back on the foundation wall far enough to receive the brick. The framing is just the
same as for any wood frame: sheath the outside of walls and strip it with l”x2”
strips vertical spaced about 24 inches centers. It is better to put building paper on
the outside of the building before the strips are put on, the strips will then hold on
the paper. The brick work must be anchored to the strips with metal bonds made
for that purpose, or if the metal ties can not be obtained, then spikes can be driven
into the studding. The ties should be every fifth or sixth course and about 24 inches
apart. The staging for the brick layers must be built on the outside.

Fig. 3 shows a Cross Section of a 9” Brick Wall with half of a window frame.
You will notice that you do not require any sub—jambs for a frame in a 9” wall. The
frame projects far enough inside of the wall to receive the furring and plastering.

Fig. 4 shows a Section of a Frame and Casing for a 12” Wall.

Fig. 5 shows a Section of a Frame in a 16” Wall, showing the inside casing stool
and apron. also showing the end of the wood and stone sills. The brick above the
opening is carried on steel angles.

SIZE OF BRICKz—The size of brick varies, some are 7%”x3%”x2%” and
others are 8%"xl1 g”x2,1/3”. Pressed brick are generally more uniform,
83é”x4}.§”x2;§”; then there is another size, called the Roman brick, which is made
l2”x4”)é1%”. Paving brick are 2V2”x8”x4” and sopietimes as much as 3%” thick.
Fire clay, 9”x41/§”x2%”.

WEIGHT OF BRICKz—The weight of brick varies according to the make.
Common brick weighs from 4 to 4% pounds while pressed brick weighs 5 to 5% pounds
each, paving brick from (i to 7 pounds and fire clay brick about 7 pounds each. Fire
brick and pressed brick are made in various forms to suit the requirements of the work.

KINDS OF BRICKz—Bricks are classed as common, face brick, fire brick and
paving brick. They are also classed as soft-mud bricks, stiff—mud bricks, dry pressed
bricks and repressed bricks. Soft—mud bricks are practically all hand made, while
stiff—mud bricks are machine made. Machine made bricks are used in preference to
hand made brick, as they can be handled easier; when hauling brick they can be
dumped instead of unloading them by hand without breaking the brick, which is
quite a saving in handling them. Soft—mud brick are sometimes repressed and made
into face brick. Hydraulic pressed brick are dry pressed and are called face brick.
All the above brick requires to be burned in a kiln, and are named according to their
position in the kiln, hard burned or arch brick, which are nearest the fire, red or well
burned brick, between the arch and salmon brick, and salmon or soft brick, which
are the fartherest away from the heat and are not fit to use where there is any weight
to carry.

38

COLOR OF BRICK :~The color depends on the amount of iron, lime and magnesia
that is in the clay. Iron produces a red color, magnesia a brown and iron and magnesia
a drab color. Pressed brick often has artificial coloring by using mineral colors with
ground clay.

FIRE BRICKS are made from a mixture of flint and plastic clay. They are
usually white mixed with brown; they are used for the lining of furnaces, fireplaces, ,
and any places where great heat is required.

PAVING BRICK are a vitrified or annealed brick, they are used for street paving,
in places where strength is required, damp places and quite frequently used for face
brick. By making a concave joint they have a very good effect as face bricks in a
building, but great care must be taken in not getting too much weight on them before
the mortar sets, as the brick are so hard that the mortar does not set very readily and are
liable to be pushed out of place. Bricks are also made of sand and lime, called a
sand lime brick, and give very good results as face brick for building purposes.

WEIGHT OF BRICK WORK :—~-Common bricks laid in lime mortar weigh about
120 pounds to the cubic foot, if laid in cement mortar they will weigh about 130
pounds. An 8-inch wall will weigh about 80 pounds per square foot of wall. Paving
brick will weigh about 160 pounds per cubic foot.

STRENGTH OF BRICK WORK :—Common brick in lime mortar will hold about
100 pounds per square inch, laid in cement mortar about 150 pounds per square inch. '
Hard burnt and paving brick laid in cement mortar will hold about 200 to 250 pounds
per square inch.

SAFE BEARING LOADS OF MASONRY :—Granite will hold about 700 pounds
per square inch, sandstone about 350 pounds, limestone about 500 pounds, rubble—
work about 100 pounds and cement concrete about 250 to 350 pounds.

SOIL FOUNDATIONS:w--Rock from '15 to 20 tons per square foot, gravel and sand
from 5 to 10 tons according to how compact it is, clay 2/14) to 3 tons per square foot.

MEASUREMENTS OF MASON WORK:—Brick work is generally measured in
the wall regardless of openings, unless the openings contain more than 70 square feet.
then they are sometimes taken out. The number of bricks figured for a 9—inch wall
per square foot is 15, 7% for a 4—inch wall, 221/3 bricks for a 12—inch wall, 30 for a
16-inch wall, 37%; for a 20—inch wall, or figure 22%; bricks for each cubic foot of wall.
The actual number of brick used in a wall is a little less than as figured by wall measure.

RUBBLE :flStone work is generally measured by the perch using 161/2 cubic feet
for a perch and sometimes 2434. cubic feet. Openings are usually figured in, unless
they contain more than 70 cubic feet. Cement work is usually measured by the
cubic foot or cubic yard. “'hen specifying stone or cement work the number of
cubic feet to be taken for a perch of stone work should be mentioned, and also in
what way the concrete work is to be figured.

A Single Load of Sand equals a cubic yard.

A Cubic Yard of Mortar requires a load of sand and nine bushels of lime, and will
fill about thirty hods.

One thousand bricks, closely stacked, occupy about 56 cubic feet.
old bricks, cleaned and loosely stacked, occupy about 72 cubic feet.

A brick layer‘s hod, measuring 1 foot 4 inches by 9 inches, will hold about 20 bricks.

One thousand

WINDOW FRAMES FOR BRICK WALLS

 

 

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39

GENERAL CONSTRUCTION

Fig. 1 shows a Cement Concrete Wall at A with a footing at B. The wall rests
against the earth F from m to d, but in order to build the wall straight and plumb,
you must build a form to hold the concrete until after it sets, then the form can be
removed.

Posts are set up as at E, generally of 4”X~1” or 4”x6”, braced and staked as at D,
c and e, a block is nailed on as at g to hold the brace in place and stakes driven at c.
The plank c can then be put in as the wall goes up. Sometimes wires are tied across
from one timber to another, as at b, to help keep the timbers from spreading; a board
as at a can also be nailed on the top or side of the posts to keep them in place. At (1
shows the grade line, the wall above grade is sometimes plastered and marked off to
represent stone work. Sometimes hollow cement blocks are used for the work above
grade and sometimes the whole wall is built from hollow blocks, ornamental face
above grade and plain below

Fig. 2 shows Cement Foundation as at A with a wood floor E. The concrete A is put
in and leveled off, then strips as shown at C or D are laid on the concrete and filled
in between the strips with cement concrete. The wood floor is then nailed on top
of the wood strips. The strips are sometimes 1%” thick and beveled on each side
as at C and sometimes they are 4”x4” strips beveled. Sometimes 2HX—l” are taken
and spikes driven in as at D, the spikes will hold the 2”X4” in place after the concrete
is in place and set. Tar felt paper should be laid between the floor and the concrete.

Fig. 3 shows a Cement Concrete Walk or floor over an area way or opening.
The walk is reinforced with I—beams as at B. A temporary floor as at D must be
put up to hold the concrete in place until it sets sufficiently to hold itself. Sometimes
the concrete is reinforced with wire netting, as from a to b; when concrete is reinforced
with wire netting the I-beams can be put farther apart than if there were no netting.
The spacing of the I-beams must be according to the width of the opening.

Fig. 4 shows a Retaining Wall A made of cement concrete and a footing B. The
wall is 12 feet in depth and the size as shown with two offsets of 6 inches each, leaving
the wall only 12 inches at the top, the wall has a batter or slant of 12 inches.

Fig. 5 shows the Construction of a Form or Center, to build an arch over an
opening where there is no frame used. The plank A-B must be cut to the desired
opening, c is a cross piece to keep the boards A-B from spreading. Make two of the
side pieces as A-B and nail lagging pieces as at E-F; these cross pieces can be set
about 2 inches apart for brick work and 3 or 4 for stone work. When the wall is of
concrete the top must be solid. H, I, J, G are posts to hold up the center until after
the mason work is set sufficient to remove them.

Fig. 6 at A shows a Segment Arch over which the brick row—locks B-B are laid.
In common brick work two and three row-locks are generally laid. The segment A
is nailed on top of the frame.

Fig. 7 shows two Forms of Brick Arches over openings. The arch at B you will
notice is on a straight line at the top and bottom; the brick in an arch of this kind
must be ground to fit the arch, or else the joint at the top of the arch would be about
twice as large as at the bottom. Sometimes a small segment is put on top of the

frame as at D, then the brick can be laid without grinding the brick down; the joints
will be some larger at the top but not enough to be noticed if the arch is not more than
12 inches in height.

Fig. 8 shows a part of a Mill Construction Building. One end of the girder A
rests on the post cap H and the other end in the brick wall E on the iron plate D.
You will notice the end of the plate being turned down at C to help keep the plate
in place On the wall; the projection on top of the plate at a prevents the timber from
pulling out straight from the wall, but if the timber should break in the center, the
back end of the timber in the wall would rise up high enough to get out of the notch
and fall out without disturbing the wall E, the top of the girder being rounded as
shown at d. The joists or girders as at F between the bearing girders are sometimes
hung with joist hangers as at I, and sometimes they are laid on top of the main girders
as at G. There are several different kinds of patented post caps; the one shown in the
drawing gives very good satisfaction. Some of the caps are made of cast iron and some
of pressed steel. The caps are set on top of the lower column and the upper column
or post sets on top directly over the lower post. The girder A rests on one end of
the caps. Pins as at b hold the girder from getting away from the post and keeps
the building in place. The girder A never should rest on top of the post where there
is another post to be set on top for another story, as the post would have to set on top
of the girder and the shrinkage of the timber would make a settlement where the
posts are. In mill construction the floor joists are generally heavy and from 2 to 4
feet apart, then a heavy floor is laid of 3 or 4—inch lumber and the finished floor on
top of the heavy floor with asbestos paper between them. Sometimes a one—inch
coat of cement is put between the floors.

Fig. 9 shows a girder made of two timbers bolted together. The timbers A and
B are of different sizes according to the weight that they are required to carry, the
washer C should be about one inch, the dotted lines D represent the bolts and E a
washer at the end of the bolts; the bolts should be about three feet apart, A girder
made in this way is stronger than if only one timber is used, unless the timber is
perfectly sound.

Fig. 10 at A shows an I—beam; on the one side as at C two timbers are bolted to
the l—beam and a 2x4 as at D is spiked to the timber; the joists are then cut and
spiked to the girder as at E. Sometimes the joists are cut to fit the I—beam as at B,
when the joists are put in; in this way strap anchors must be put over the joist to
keep them in place, one every fourth joist. If the floor is double, it is well to lay
the under or first floor diagonal which will also tie the joist together.

Fig. 11 A and B show hollow tiling which are used quite extensively for partitions
and backing up in brick buildings. They are better for backing up than brick as the
hollow part prevents the frost from coming on the inside.

Fig. 12 shows a Metal Cornice and wood frame work to hold the same in place.
C and E show the brick work, D and B the wood frame which is built into the brick
work, F the roof joist.

Fig. 13 shows a projection of a cornice, G being the gutter, A the brick wall, B
a wood bracket to which the cornice is fastened, the wood bracket is fastened to the
2x45 c-d The plate on top of the brick wall is bolted to the wall with bolts F, and
should have a bolt every four feet, C shows the rafter and D the shingles.

 

GENERAL CONSTRUCTION

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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COLUMNS AND SPLICES

Figs. 1. 2, 3, l and 5 show a Group of the Five Orders Named—Tuscan, Doric,
Ionic, Corinthian and Composit.

Fig. 1. The Tuscan Order :—The column is seven times as high as the diameter,
so that a column seven feet high should be 12 inches in diameter at the base.

Fig. ‘2. The Doric Order is eight times the diameter.
Fig. 3. The Ionic Order is nine times the diameter.

Fig. 4. The Corinthian and Fig. 5 the Composit Order are ten times the
diameter. For porches the pedestals can be left off and the columns set on the porch
floor direct. -

The cornice should measure one—fourth as much as the length of the column,
and the pedestals one—third the height of the column. These columns can be bought
from the manufacturers by specifying what order is required and giving the height
and thickness of the column. Composition caps are generally used with a wood body
especially in the Ionic. Corinthian and Composit orders. as the carving of the caps
would be quite expensive if it were made of wood.

Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. 11 and ii show different makes of joints used when splicing
timbers in heavy truss work.

Figs. 6 and 7 show a Fish Joint. Fig. (S shows a side view and Fig. 7 a top view;
A—A being the timber with a butt joint in the center, C and D being the fish plates.
These plates are bolted to the timber with bolts as shown by the dotted lines a-b, etc.
When the beams are used to resist a strain of compression. the fish plates should be.
placed on all four sides of the timber. .

Fig. 8 shows Two Ways of Framing Fish Plates as at D and C. Vt'hen there _1s a
pulling strain these plates are better than as shown in Fig. 7. as the notches cut into
the plate C and the timber A—B hold the timbers together better. The plate D has
notches cut in as at a and b and wedges driven in. which also gives good pulling strength.

Fig. S) shows a Scarf Joint" which is made by overlapping the timbers and cutting
in notches as shown at C and D. This makes a good joint for pulling strength; the
length of the splice should be about 8 to 10 times the thickness of the timber.

Fig. 10 shows a Combination of a Fish and Scarf Joint. The plates a and b are
made of iron with the ends turned in; notches must be cut into the timber to receive
these ends. Notches are also cut at C and D and hard wood wedges driven in.

Fig. 12 shows another form of the same kind of splice without the plates; notice
the different cut of the timbers at a and b.

Fig. 11 shows another joint by overlapping the timbers and a wedge in the center.

A Short Description of a Few of the Different Kinds of Wood

WHITE PINE, which is also sometimes called northern or soft pine is a light,
soft. straight grained wood. \thn finished in natural color, it has a yellowish color.
The wood is very durable in all kinds of weather. The best grades are largely used
for pattern making, ship building. exterior trimming, while the poorer grades are
used for veneering purposes and dimension lumber. It is not used much for interior
finishing as the wood is very soft. The wood is getting scarce which makes it very
expensive and is not used as much for framing as cheaper timbers; but where there
is dampness it is better to use soft pine, as it will last longer than hemlock or yellow pine.

YELLOW PINE—Georgia or Hard Pine grows in the Southern states and is known
as long leaf, Cuban, short leaf and loblolly. It is generally used indiscriminately
without regard to variety. Yellow pine is used for most all parts of a building except
shingles. It is used for dimension and makes a stiffer building than hemlock orsoft
pine. outside wall covering, sheathing. floors and interior finishing. and sometimes

42

for outside siding and trimming, but I would not recommend it for outside trimming
as the changes in the weather will soon cause it to check. It makes a good interior
finish and can be finished naturally or stained any desired color.

SPRUCE :—T he American spruce grows in the Northern parts of America and is
used for building purposes, flooring, etc., It is also used for ship masts and for piles
and submerged cribs.

HEMLOCK resembles Spruce in appearance, but is of an inferior quality as a
building material. The wood is more brittle and shaky. It is unfit for finishing
lumber, but is extensively used for the frame work and sheathing of buildings.

CEDAR :——There are two kinds of cedar, the red and the white. The wood is
soft, light, fine grained and durable. It is used very extensively for shingles, siding,
water tanks. boat building, cigar boxes, etc. Red cedar is also used for lining of
clothes chests on account of its strong odor; moths and other insects will not stay in
a box made of it. It is valuable for fence posts and sills that come in contact with the
ground. because of its durability.

RED WOOD is a western timber. Trees grow as high as 200 and 300 feet and
from 12 to 15 feet in diameter. The wood is used for railroad ties, fence posts, telegraph
poles and other purposes where durability is required. It is used in the west for the
same purposes as pine lumber is in the east. It makes a splendid interior finish and
takes a very high polish.

CYPRESS is a southern wood similar to cedar.
and interior finishing.

OAKz—There are several varieties of the oak, but the ones used for furniture
and interior trimming is the red and white oak. \Yhen oak was more plentiful it was
used for house framing, but at present it. is very seldom used for that. It is extensively
used for floors, interior trimming and cabinet work. The wood takes a very high
polish. Floors are generally quarter sawed as it makes a better floor. ..
ASH resembles oak in some ways and is used for cabinet work, but it lacks that
silvery grain that is so prominent in the oak.

LOCUST is as hard as oak and is used to some extent for cabinet work.
very durable for fence posts and in exposed places.

HICKORY is not used in residence work, but mostly for carriage and implements.

MAPLE is very extensively used for flooring. Curly and bird’s—eye maple are
used for cabinet work. The floors are light in color.

BIRCH is a heavy wood, hard and resembles cherry in color.
and can be made to represent mahogany wood.
finishing and cabinet work.

WHITE WOOD OR POPLAR is a light. soft, brittle wood and not used very much
for interior finishing unless the work is to be painted.

GUMWOOD is similar to poplar and only used in cheap residence work.

BEACH is a very hard and tough wood and is used for finished flooring. also for
tool handles. etc.

BASSWOOD resembles soft pine in texture. It is used for house siding and
ceiling, and sometimes for interior finishing where the work is to be painted. If used
on the outside. it should be painted at Once to prevent any moisture getting on the
wood. as paint will not adhere to the wood if moist.

MAHOGANY wood grows in the \Yest Indies and Central America, and does not
shrink or warp very much if the grain is straight. It is used for cabinet work and
expensivcly finished rooms. It is generally veneered upon some reliable wood.

BLACK WALNUT is used for cabinet work and gun stocks mostly.

ROSEWOOD, EBONY, APPLE, PEAR AND BOXWOOD are mostly used for

tool handles.

The wood is used for exterior

It is

It takes stain well
It is used extensively for interior

 

COLUMNS AND SPLICES

 

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PLASTERING

LATHING:~Wooden Laths should be well seasoned, free from sap, bark and
dead knots. Hemlock, spruce and white pine are in general use. The white pine
and hemlock are considered the best wood; hard or yellow pine contains too much
pitch which will show through the plastering. Laths are sold by the thousand and
are generally 7,567 ”x1%”x4’. Metal laths are generally used over the joint where
wood work joins the brick work, over iron girders, channels in brick walls, for outside
plaster work and for exterior angles in a building to keep the corner from checking.
For strictly fireproof buildings metal laths are used throughout, also in slow burning
buildings.

PLASTERING is sometimes done in three coat work but usually in two coat work;
or the first and second coat are put on one following the other before the first one sets,
instead of having a scratch coat, which is called drawn work. \Vhere three coats are
applied the first coat is called the scratch coat, the second the brown coat and the
third the white, skim or finish coat. On brick work the scratch coat is not necessary
as the second coat can be applied direct to the brick work. The scratch coat should
be made rich in lime, and should contain one bushel of hair to two of lime, and one
part of lime paste to two parts of sand. The brown coat should contain 2% bushels
of lime to 7 barrels of sand and about in bushel of hair. Plaster is generally mixed
without measuring the material, but according to the judgment of the mixer. The
third coat is called the skim coat, white coat, putty coat or sand finish. The skim
coat is composed of lime putty and washed sand in equal proportions. Sand finish is
mixed in the same way, only coarser sand and more of it is used, and is finished with a
wooden or cork faced float. “'hite coat or hard finish is made of lime putty and
plaster of Paris; marble dust is sometimes added to the mixture. The mixture
must be used as soon as mixed as it sets very readily and should not be used after it
sets. This coat should be finished with a steel trowel and wet brush; the more the
work is troweled the harder it gets. When a better hard finish is required, especially
for wainscot in bath rooms, etc., a mixture of four parts of Best’s Keenen Cement to
one part of lime putty makes a good finish if well troweled. Adamant plaster No. 40
is sometimes used for wainscot in kitchens. '

MACHINE MIXED MORTAR makes a very good mortar, better than hand mixed,
as the proportions are all the same and it is more thoroughly mixed than can be done
by hand.

IMPROVED WALL PLASTER is now extensively used with the best satisfaction.
There are quite a number of these improved plasters. Patent plaster is all sold by
weight, with directions how to be used, which should be strictly followed by the
plasterer to get the best results. Unsanded wall plaster isuscd more than the sanded.
Some of the brands are Imperial, Flint, Kallolite, Ivory, Mineral City, etc.

OUTSIDE WALLS are sometimes plastered with cement and sometimes pebble
dashed. The lath should be metal and have a bearing every 8 inches.

ESTIMATING PLASTERING:——The price varies in different parts of the country.
Wood lathing costs from 3 to 3% cents per square yard, while metal lathing costs about
5 cents on wood and 8 cents on steel studding. The labor for putting on the plaster
is about 14 to 15 cents per yard for drawn work and 15 to 16 cents for scratch coat.

44

RULES FOR MEASURING PLASTERING

N0 deductions are made for openings, unless they contain more than 50 square
feet of surface on one side of wall only. Attics are measured square, without deduct—
ing for the slope of the roof.

Three coat or drawn work (white finish) on wood lath will cost from 28 to 32
cents per square yard, on metal lath from 55 to 60 cents per square yard. For plaster
on brick or tile walls, deduct 7 to 8 cents per yard and for metal lath 20 cents.
Back plaster on wood lath 20 cents. Blocking of wainscot to represent tile costs
$1.25 to $1.50 per square yard using Keenen Cement; 6—inch base Keenen Cement,
10 cents per lineal foot. Outside or pebble dash plastering on metal lath depends on
the amount of the openings, an average price is $1.00 per square yard. Metal corners,
6 cents on wood and 7 cents on brick work per lineal foot.

CRACKING OF PLASTERING is sometimes due to settlement of the building or
shrinkage of lumber. Cracks next to the ceiling are generally caused by the shrinkage
of the second floor joist, cracks in the angles show that the angles were not made
perfectly solid by the carpenter, cracks across the walls-indicate that the building
is settling, cracks along the joints of lath on studs are sometimes caused by not
breaking joints properly. In wood laths the joint should be broken every seventh
or eighth lath. Care should be taken not to butt the lath together too tight as some
lath are cross grained and when wet will swell endwise and buckle, causing the plastering
to crack.

POPPING OF LIME :HCare should be taken to select lime that will slake quickly.
Any lime should slake in 48 hours, but it is better to slake the lime a week or two
ahead before using the same, even then there is popping of lime sometimes after a
period of six months or longer. Sand for plastering should be sharp and free from
vegetable matter. One bushel of lime will make about two and one—half bushels of
lime putty.

Table No. l on the opposite page gives the number of square yards in aside wall
or ceiling. Take a room 7 feet wide and 8 feet 6 inches long; in the first column
(width in feet and inches) find 7’~0” and in the top row (length in feet and inches)
find 8’ 6” at the intersection of the two rows you will find the figures 6.6 or 6T6U
yards. If the height of a ceiling were 8 feet 6 inches and the length of the room 13
feet, find where the column marked 13’—0” and the row marked 8’—6” intersect
and you will find 12.2 or 127%,- square yards. The number of square yards can be
very readily found for any size room by the use of the table. Take a store room
120 feet long and a ceiling 13 feet 6 inches high, by finding the intersection of the
two rows of figures, we find 180, which means 180 square yards in one side wall
13’6”le0’0”. At the bottom left hand corner of the same page you will find
another table giving the cost of plastering from one to 30 cents per yard. If the
price is more than 30 cents, say 35 cents, add 30 and 5 together and you will have the
amount, if 40 cents, take two times 20 cents. Take the above figure of 180 square
yards at 27 cents, take 100 yards at 27 cents equals $27 as shown at the intersection
of column marked 100 and the price at the side is 27. Take 80 yards, follow
the column 80 until you get in line with 27 and you will find $21.60, (twenty—one
dollars and sixty cents), add $21.60 and $27.00 and you will have the cost of 180
yards at 27 cents per yard, which is $48. 60.

 

Wldlh in Feet Ind 11161199

655645555... Table No. 1. To Find the Number of Square Yards in a Side Wall or Ceiling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Price per Yard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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3'0" .5 .66 .3 1.60 1.16 1.3 1.5 106 1.8 2.0 2.16 2.3 2.5 2.66 2.8 3.0 3:16 3.3 3.5 3.66 3.8 4.0 416 4.3 1.5 4.66 4.8 5.0 5.70 5.3 5 5 5.60 5 s 6 9 6 1 6 :1 6.5 6.6 10.0 13.3 16 6 20. 23.3 26.7 30 33.3 36.7 40. 43.3 46.7 50. 3'0"
5'6" .6 .77 1.00 1.16 1.4 1.6 1.75195 2.14 2.3 2 52 2.7 2 9 3 1 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.23 4.5 4.00 4.86 5.05 5.25 5.33 5 65 5.3 0 16 6 2 6 4 0 0 6 3 7 0 7 2 7 4 7 6 7.8 11.66 15.5 19.4 23.3 27.2 31.1 35 38.9 42.7 46.6 50.5 54.4 58.3 3’6"
4'0" .9 1.1 1.3 1.6 1.3 2.00 2.2 2.4 2.7 2 9 3.1 3.3 3.5 3.75 4.0 4.2 4.4 4.65 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.55 5.8 6.0 6.2 0.4 6.65 6.9 7 1 7.3 7.5 7 8 3 0 8.2 3.4 8 6 8.9 13.3 17.3 22.2 26.6 31.1 35.5 49 44.4 48.8 53 3 57.8 62.2 66.4 410”
4'6" .751.00 1.25 1.5 1.75 2.0 2.25 2.5 2..., 3.0 325 3.5 3.1, 4.0 4.25 4.5 4.75 5.0 5.25 5.5 5.75 6.0 6 25 6 .5 6.75 7 6 7.25 7.5 7.75 8 0 3.25 3 5 8.7: 9.0 9.25 9.5 9 7 10.0 15 20 25.0 30 35 4o 45 50 55 60 65 7o 75 4'6"
5’9” 331.1 1.331.611 1.95 2.2 .3 3.3 3.6 3.9 42 445 4.7 5.0 5.3 5.6 5.9 6.1 6.4 6.66 6.9 7.2 7.5 73 31 34 87 393 91 9.5 98 100103 100 10.9 111 16.6 222 27.7 33.3 38.8 44.4 50 55.5 61.1 66.6 72.2 77.7 83.3 5'0”
5'6"- .9 1.2 1531.8 1.4 3.60 3.93 4.27 455 48 52 5.5 5.8 6.1 6.45 6.7 7.0 7.3 76 7.9 825 37 38 92 95 93 101 104 107 11.0113 11.6 11.9 12.2 18.3 250 30.8 36.67 42.8 48.8 55 61.1 67.2 711 79.4 87.7 91.6 6’6”
5'9" 1.0 1.33 1.66 2.0 2.7 1 4.0 1.33 4.66 50 5.33 5 67 0.9 6.3 6.67 7.0 7.33 7.67 8.0 S 33 8 67 9 0 9 '13 9.1., 10 0 10 31 1066 110 117 1167 12 0 12 3 12 6 1:1 13 3 20. 20.6 33.3 40 46.6' 53.3 60 66.6 73 80 36.6 93.3 100.0 8’0"
0'9"1.081.4 1.3 2.16 i 1314 69 5 66 6.4 5.7 614 6.5 6.3 7.2 7.6 7.95 8.3 3.0 91 9 4 0 75 101 10 5 10 9 11 1 115 119 12 3 1267130117 116 14 0 14 4 21 6 28 8 36.1 43.3 50 5 57.7 65 72.2 79 4 86.1 93.8101.1'108.2 6’8”
7'04'1.171.55 1.9.1 2.3 52.7 3.1 i - 4 66 5.06 5 45 5.8 6 2 6 6 7 0 7.3 7 75 8.1 8 5 8.9 9.2 9 7 10.1 10 5 10 3 112 110 120512 4 12 3 13.2 13.6 14.0 14 7 14.6 17 1 15 5 23 3 31 1 38.8 46.6 54 4 62.2 70 77.7 85.5 93.3 101.1 108.8 117 7'0"

1 1 1 ' 7'6" 6.4 67 703 77 79 33 87 9.1 9.5 10.0 10.4 10.8 11.0 11.4 11.3 125 129 171 1:17 14.2 14.6 150154 15.8 16.2 16.6 25 33.3 42.6 50.9 58.3 66.6 75 83.3 91.6 94.4 108.3 116.6125 7's"
1 1 11'9" 7.1 7.5 8.0 s 4 8.8 9 3 9.7 10.2 10 0 11 1 1155 12 0 12 4 12 8 117 13.7 112 14 6 171 15 5 16.016 4 16 8 17 2 17.7 26.6 35.5 44.4 53.3 02.2 711 80 88.8 97.7106 6115.5124.4133.3 8’0"
1 5 8'6" 8.02 3.5 8.9 9.4 9 9 10 3 10.8 11 3 11.5 12 2 12 7 13 2 11 7 14 1 14 6 151 17 6 161 16 6 11 0 17 5 17 9 18.4 18 8 28 3 37.7 47.2 56.6 66 8 75.5 35 94.4103.8113.3 122.21322 141.0 8'0"
: 9'0" 9.0 9 5 10.0 10.5 110 11.5 12 0 12.5 13 0 13 5 110 14 5 150 15.7 16 0 16 7 17 0 17 5 15 0 1s 7 19 0 19 5 20.0 30 40 50 60 70 80 90100 110 120 130 140 150 9'0"
; 1 9'6" 10.0 10.5 11.08411". 121 12 7 13.3 13.3 14 3 14 8 15.3 11 8 16 7 16 0 17.4 17 9 13 5 19 0 19 7 26 0') 20.5 21.1 316 42 2 52.7 63.7 73.8 84 4 95105.5!16.1126.6 137.2147.7 158.3 9'6"
[ 100" 11.1 11.6 12.2 12.7 13.3 13.3 14 4 15 15 1 16.1 11. 6 17 2 17 1 18.1 13 3 19 4 20 0 10 .- 91 1 20 6 2 33.2 41 4 55.5 66.6 77.7 88.8109 111.1 12221333 144.4155.5166.6 10'0"
10’6” 12.2 12.8 13.4 14 0 14.5 15 1 15 7 16.3 10.9 17.5 18 1 191. 10 2 19.8 20 1 110210 22 2 22 1 .15 46 6 58.3 70.0 81.6 92 2105116.6128.3l40. 151.6 163.3175 10'6"
1 11'0" 111 14.1 14 6 15 2 15.8 16 5 17 7 17 7 18.: 1s 9 19 5 101 20.7 '11 '1 22 22 6 11 23 24 4 36 6 18 8 61.1 74.4 85.5 97 7110122.2134.4146.6157.7 171.1 183.3 11'0'1'
' 11'6” 14.7 15.5 15.9 16.6 17 2 17 3 13 . 10.1 19 .4 20 4 21 1 21.7 22 4 23 0 23 7 21.4 200 231 33 3 51 1 63.8 76.6 89.7102 1151277 14051533 166.1 178.8191.8 11’8”
h .2 12'0” 16.0 10.0 17.3 18 0 13 6 111.3 20.0 :0 6 21 1 22 0 '2 6 '1 1 210 14 0 27.3 26 0 26 6 40 0 53.3 60.6 80.0 93.3 106 6 120 133.6 146.6160 173.7 184.4 200 12'0",
12’6” 17.4 13.0 18 7 19 1 20.1 20 3 21 22 1 21 1 2:13 24.4 25 0 25 7 16 1 27.0 23 1 11 0 55.5 69.4 83.3 97.2 111.1 125 138.9 152.7 1001 180.7 194.4 208.3 12'6"
13'0" 13.3 19.5 20 2 20.0 21.1. 22.3 )1 1 21.8 24 527.3 26 0 26 7 17 I1 23.1 13 8 42 2 57 7 72.2 86.6 101 1 115 5 130 144.4 157.7 173 3 187.7 202.2 216.6 18'9"
13‘6” 20.1 21.0 21.7 21 1 11.0 21‘7 26 1 27.0 27 7 28.5 29.2 30.0 45.0 60.0 75.0 90.0 105.0 120 0 135 15001050180 0 195.0 210.0 225. 18'0"
1401 217 22 5 23.1 21 1 24 8 25 6 26 4 28 0 28.7 10 7 30.3 31 1 46 6 62 2 77.7 93.3 108 3 124 4 140 155.5171.1 186 6 202.2 217.7 233.3 14'9"
_ 14'6” 23.4 21.2 24.9 25.0 26.3 27.4 28.2 29.0 29.8 30 6 31.4 32 2 18.3 04 4 80.5 96.6 112 2 126 6 145 161.1 177.2193 3 209.4 225.5 240.6 14'6”
150' 25.0 ‘17 s 20 6 '1 29.1 .19 0 30.8 31.6 32.5 33.3 50.0 66.6 83.3 100.0 116.6 133.3 150 166.6 183.3 200.0 210.6 233.3 250.0 15'0"
cm 01 Plastering in 1151141; and Cems 1, 15’6” 26.7 27.5 23 4 29 5 30 1 31.0 31 8 32.2 33.5 34.4 51.7 68.8 86.1 103.3 120 5 137 7 155 172.2 189.4 206 6 223.8 241.1 258.3 15’6"
39 .60 .90 1.20 1 50 1 36 2 10 3.00 0.00 9.00 12.00 1.7.60 1.4.00 2100 24.00 27.00 :10 00 60.00 90.00 120.00 150.00 130.00 210.00 240.00 270.00 300.00 30 16’0" 2x 1 20.3 30.2 31.1 32.9 32.8 33 2 34 6 35 5 53.3 11 1 88 8 106.6 124 4 142 2 160 177.7 195.5 213 3 231.1 248.8 266.6 16'0"
29 :5. 87 . 1(- 14.. . .4 10. 2.90 5.29 8.70 1166- 14.50 17.40 20.30 23.20 26.10 29 00 53.00 37.00 116.00 145.00 174.00 203.00 232.00 261.00 290.00 29 15’6" 30,2 31 1 32.2 33.0 33.0 34 8 35.7 36.6 55.0 73 3 91.5 110.0 128 7 146 6165 183.2 201.1 220.0 238.3 256.6 275.0 16'6”
29 .53 :4 1. 12 1.40 :(‘n 1 96 2.50 5.60 3.46 11.26 14.00 16.80 19.60 22.40 25.29 28 00 56.00 34.00 1126014000 108.00 196.00 224.00 252.00 270.00 28 170' 32 1 33.2 34.0 34.8 35.8 36.8 37.7 56.6 75.5 94.4 113.3 132.2 151 1 170 188.8 207.7 226.6 246.6 204.4 283.3 17'0"
27 54 .31 . r\ 137 2.70 5.40 8.10 10.80 13.50 16.29 13.90 21.60 24.30 27.00 54 00 81.00 108.00 1:15.00 162.00 189.00 216.90 243.00 270.00 27 17’6” 34.2 35.0 35.8 36 5 37 9 38.8 58.3 77.7 97.2 116.6 136 1 155 5 175 194.4 213.8 233 3 252.7 271.1 291.6 17'9"
26 ‘ 52 7; 1 0' 151:1 2.60 5.20 7.80 10.40 13.00 15.60 18.20 20.30 23.40 26.00 52.00 78.00 104.00 130.00 156.00 182.00 208.00 234.00 260.00 26 18’0’ 36.0 37.9 38.0 39.0 49.0 60.0 80 0 100.0 129 149 169 180 200 220 240 260 280 300 18'0"
25 .50 .75 1 60 1.25 2.50 5.06 7.50 10.00 12.50 15.00 17.50 20.00 22.50 25.00 50.00 75.00 100.00 125.00 150.00 175.00 200.00 225.00 250.00 25 18’6” 33.0 39.0 10 0.. 41 1 61.8 82.2 102.7 123.7 144 164.4 185 205.5 226 246 267 288 308.3 19'0"
24 43 72 91.120 144 1 68 1.92 2 16 2 40 4 30 7.20 9.60 12.00 14.40 16.80 19.20 21.00 24.00 48.00 72.60 96.09 120.00 144100 168.00 192.00 216.00 240 00 24 190" 40.1 41.1 42.2 63.3 84.4 105.2 126.6 147.7 168.8 190 211.1 232.2 253 3 274.4 295.5 316.6 19'9"
23 .46 .69 .92 1.15 1.38 1.61 1.34 2 67 2.30 4 60 6.90 92011.50 l3_.80 16.10 18.40 20.70 23.00 46.00 69.00 92.00 1150013809 161.00 184.00 207.00 230.00 23 1916” 42.1 43:1 01.9 86.6 108.2 130.3 151.51732 195 216.0 238.3 259 9 281.6 303.2 325.0 19'0"
22 44 66 881 10 132 1 54 1.70 1 0. 2 20 4 40 0.60 3.30 11.001320 15.40 17.00 19.80 22.00 44.00 66.00 88.00 110.60 132.00 154.00 176.00 198.00 220.00 22 W 20'0H14.1 66.6 83.8 111.0 133.2 155.4 177.0 200 222.2 244.4 206 6 288.8 311.0 333.3 20'9"
21 42 63 5. 1.07 ,1.20 1 47 1.6" 1 «1 2.10 4.20 6.30 8.40 10.50 12.60 14.70 16.30 18.90 21.00 42.00 03.00 31.00 105.00 126.06 147.00 163.00 189.00 210.00—21 ~_‘ #VUV VH‘ "_ H7 7 *7" 20's” 69.3 91.0 113.8“ 136.0 159.3 181.0 ’05 ”7.7 250.5 273 3 296.0 318.8 341.0 20's"
20 40 (0 (,0 1 1:0 1 '0 1.40 1.60 1.30 2.90 4 00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.99 14.00 10.00 18.00 120.00.40.00 60.00 80.00 100.00 120.00 140.00 160.00 180.01J2110.Uu‘£1:_J—‘ “2.7.2.2522. “7:# "W : 21'0" 09.9 93.2 110.6 141.0 163 ‘2 186.5 110 233.3 256.6 279 9 302.1 326.6 350.0 21'0"
10 20 50 40 .50 00 70 50 00 1.00 200300 4.00 5.00 0.00 7.00 8.00 9.110100020003000 40.00 50.00 60.00 70.00 30.00 900010000 13 i 21’6” 71.6 05.4 119.4 144.4 167.1 189.9 215 233.8 262.7 236.6 309.3 334.4 358.3 21's"
9 18 27 36 .45 5; I: .72 57 90 180270 3.00 4.50 5.40 0.30 7.20 3.00 9.0018.0027.00 36.00 45.00 54.00 63.00 72.00 80.00 90.00 9 3“ 1 2210” 73.2 97.0 122.2 148.8 171. 105.4 220 244.4 268.8 29323154 342.2 366.6 22'0"
8 16 21 32 .40 45 56 .64 72 80 160240 3.20 400 4.80 5.60 6.40 7.20 8.00 16.00 24.00 32.00 40.00 48.00 56.00 64.00 72.00 80.00 6 :- 22’3” 74.9 99.9 124.9 151.0 175.2 199.7 225 249.9 274.9 29993238 349.9 375 22'6"
7 14 21 28 .35 42 40 .56 6; 70 140210 2.80 350 4.20 4.90 5.60 6.30 7.00 14.00 21.00 28.00 35.00 42.00 49.00 50.00 03.00 70.00 7 a +7” 230" 70.6 1021 127.7 154.4 17882013230 255.8 281 3066331.4 355.5 383.3 33'0"
a 12 18 .24 .30 16 4- .48 54 60 1201.80 2.49 300 360 4.20 4.80 5.40 60012601390 24.00 30.00 36.00 42.00 48.00 54.00 60.00 6 23’6” 73.3 104.4 130.4 156.6 18302080 235 261.3 287 1 31033398 363.2 291.6 23'6"
5 10 15 20 .25 30 '17 40 45 50 100 1.50 2.00 2.50 3.09 3.50 409 4.50 50010001500 20.00 25.00 30.00 35.90 40.00 45.00 50.00 5 2410" 80.0 1066 133.2 160.0 186.6 213.2 240 207.2 293.2 32903474 368.8 400 24'9"
45 09 135 .18 .225 27 315 .36 .407 .45 901.35 1.30 2.25 2.70 3.15 3.00 4.05 4.50 90013.50 13.00 22.50 27.00 31.50 36.00 40.50 4500 4.5 24’6" 81.6 1088 136.0 163.3 190.5 217.7 245 272.5 29933261 354.4 378.8 408.3 24'5"
4 08 12 .16 .20 24 28 32 36 40 36120 1.60 200 2.40 2.50 3.20 3.00 4.00 80012.00 10.00 20.00 21.00 28.00 32.00 36.00 40.06 4 7 2519” 332 1110 138.3 166.0 19442222 250 277.8 305.4 332.2 369.4 388.8 416.6 25'0"
35 07 105 14 .175 21 243 28 515 ’11 70105 140 175 210 2.45 2.80 315 3.50 7.001050 14.00 17 50 21.00 24.50 28.50 31.50 35.00 3.5 — 26’0” 114.4 115.4 144.4 173.2 292.2 231 260 288.8 314.4 346.6 375.4 404.4 433.2 won
3 06 09 .12 15 18 21 24 27 30 .60 90 1 20 1 50 180 2.10 2.40 2.70 3.00 6.00 9 00 12.00 15 00 13.00 21.00 24.00 27.00 30.00 3 27'0" 90.9 120 0 150.0 130 210 240 270 300.0 330 360 390 420 450 27'0"
25 05 015 10 .12; 15 171 .20 225 27 .50 75 100 127 150 175 200 227 2 70 5.00 7.50 10.00 12 .70 1.7.00 17 .70 20.00 22.50 25.00 a? W 28'0" 93.2 1244 155.4 136.6 217.6 248.3 28031103422 373.2 494.4 435.4 466.6 286'
2 .04 .06 03 .10 .12 .14 .16 .18 .20 .40 .60 .30 1.00 1.20 1.40 1.60 1.30 2.00 4.00 6.00 3.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 10.00 13.00 20.00 2 29'0” 90.6 128.8 1610 193.2 224 4 253.2 290 3222:1544 336.6 418.8 451 481.2 299’
1.5 .03 045 .00 .075 .09 .105 .12 .135 15 '10 .45 60 75 .90 1.05 1.20 1.35-1.50 300 4.50 6.00 7 50 0 60 10.50 12.00 13.50 15.00 1.5 ‘ ‘_A * W— " 301011 100 132,2 106.0 200 .. .2 266.6 306 332.2 360.6 400 432.2 406.6 509 300"
1 2 3 4 5 6 '7 8 9 1o 20 so 40 50 69 7o 80 96 100 200 390 400 606 600 709 900 900 1000 1 V V k" ’_..._2...v 41mm 133.2 177.6 22.0 266.4 310.8 355.2 406 444.4 438.3 533.2 577.6 022. 666.6 409"

Number of Square Yard:

 

 

4S

PAINTING

The most common paint used is white lead and is generally sold as paste white
lead put up in different sized kegs. Different colors are mixed with white lead to
make it the desired color. Outside wood painting should have a priming coat, which
should be mostly oil; a good way is to mix a gallon of paint regularly and add a gallon
of raw linseed oil with the gallon of mixed paint for the priming coat. Five gallons
of oil to 100 pounds of white lead makes a good proportion for mixing regularly mixed
paint, and will make about 6%) gallons of paint weighing 2111 pounds per gallon; 9%
pounds of zinc and 5. 7 pounds of oil will make a gallon of paint. A gallon of priming
will cover about 300 square feet and a gallon of paint from 500 to (300 square feet.
Yellow Ochre is sometimes used for a priming coat but does not give as good results
as white lead and pure linseed oil. There is a great opportunity for contractors using
poor paint instead of good, and it is well to have the material brought to the job in
the original packages before mixing them. The lumber should be dry when applying
the paint. All cracks and nail holes should be filled with putty after the priming coat
is on. Sometimes outside work only has two coats, then the first coat is heavier
than a priming coat. This does not make as good work, as there is not enough oil
in the first coat. _

SHELLAC:—All sappy places and knots should have a coat of shellac before
painting to prevent the pitch from coming out and pealing off the paint.

PAINTING METAL, such as steel, galvanized iron, tin, etc. Red lead is frequently
used for the first coat of this work, using about 30 pounds of dry red lead to a gallon
of linseed oil. Finely ground graphite in linseed oil makes a good paint for metal.
There are patent paints for steel that give good results. One gallon of paint will cover
about 400 square feet of surface.

DRIERS:—Different kinds of driers are used in paint which makes the paint
dry more readily.

PAINTING PLASTERz—First paint the plaster one coat of paint, then give it a
coat of glue size or shellac and paint the required number of coats.

WHITE ENAMEL :——Two coats of paint, one coat of flat zinc, then with white
enamel; sand paper between coats. There are several different kinds. of enamel
with directions given by the manufacturers.

STAINS:~There are various wood stains to imitate different kinds of wood.
Take a mahogany stain; you can stain birch wood to look like mahogany or cherry.
Any kind of wood where the grain of the wood resembles some other kind of wood
can be stained to imitate some other wood. Georgia pine wood is often grained to
represent weathered oak. Although the grain in Georgia pine does not resemble
oak it gives it a dark‘effect and the appearance of a higher grade of wood. Oak is
finished in a good many different ways—golden oak, antique, Flemish, weathered
oak, early English, etc. “flien finishing a house, the painter should be required to
furnish samples of different kinds of stain for the owner to select.

SHINGLE STAINS are made by several manufacturers and give good results.
Creosote stains are now much used in staining outside woodwork and shingles.
Shingles are sometimes dipped by putting the whole bunch of shingles in the stain
without opening them, but this is not as good as when the bunches are opened and the
shingles dipped separately, about two—thirds the length of the shingles. A better
way, but more expensive, is to brush the shingles with a paint brush after dipping them.

DAMP PROOF PAINTS are made by different manufacturers and used to keep
out dampness in masonry walls. Take a solid brick wall and. instead of furring for
lath and plaster as is generally done for outside walls, they are covered with one coat

46

of damp proof paint and then plastered direct on the brick work. All brick work
inside and outside, should be prepared in this way: on the inside to protect the
plastering from dampness and prevent the saltpeter from showing through; on the
outside to prevent the paint from pealing off and the saltpeter from coming through.

VARNISHING:—There are a good many different makes of varnish, some of them
are good while others are not. It is always the cheapest to use a good varnish, if it
does cost more money, than to use a poor grade that can be bought for a little money.

SOME POINTS ON VARNISHz—The room should be well lighted and ventilated,

7 and the best results are obtained when the temperature is about 70 to 75 degrees.

Varnish does not harden fast in a damp room, or when the weather is too hot. Varnish
should never be used when cold, but should be kept in a warm room until the chilled
particles have disappeared.

CRACKING OF VARNISH is caused by the under coat not being thoroughly dry
when the finishing coat is applied or when very heavy coats have been put on. Brittle
varnish sometimes cracks when exposed to sudden changes of the weather. Turning
white is caused by the action of water and dampness. Cheap varnishes are easily
affected in this way, while good varnish is more elastic and will resist the action.

WRINKLING, CRAWLING OR SAGGING is caused by applying the varnish too
heavy, or by exposure to sudden changes of temperature while it is drying, or if
the under coat is not dry when the finishing coat is applied.

BLISTERING is caused by the action of heat, if sap or dampness is retained in
the wood, or if moisture exists in the under coat when the finishing coat is applied.

KNOTS AND SAPPY PLACES should be killed by using grain or wood alcohol
shellac for the first coat. The sap will work through and injure the finishing if this
is not done. ’

BRITTLENESS is caused by an excess of drier, lack of oil, or by adulterated
materials being used in the manufacture of the same. If a varnish scratches white,
or powders white under the friction of fingers, it shows that it is a poor quality of
varnish.

SWEATING is caused by rubbing the under coat before it is dry.

THINNING varnish should be done with turpentine.

ESTIMATE

Painter’s work is generally estimated by the yard, the cost depends upon the
number of coats applied and the quality of the work. A day’s work for a painter is
about 100 yards first coat. 80 yards second or third coats; an ordinary door, including
the casing on both sides. will make about 8 yards of painting and an ordinary window
about 23 yards.

TINTING:——Plastered walls, where tint is required, should first have a coat of
glue size. The tinting should be done, if possible, before the casings are put on.

FINISHING OF FLOORS:—Hardwood floors, as well as hardwood finish, should
be filled with a paste filler and rubbed into the grain of the wood, then finished with
floor varnish. Shellac makes a good fioor varnish. If the floor is to be waxed, it. should
have a coat or two of shellac, then waxed three or four coats and polished with weighted
floor brush made for that purpose. Yellow pine floors generally have one coat of
paste filler and two of varnish. Sometimes they are waxed, and sometimes only oiled.

MAPLE FLOORS can be varnished or waxed same as oak and yellow pine floors,
but they frequently are oiled by taking a rag and dipping it in boiled linseed oil
and rubbing the floor, then taking a dry cloth and rubbing it off before it dries. Apply
as many coats as required. Outside doors and all surfaces exposed to the direct rays
of the sun should have spar varnish instead of interior varnishes.

ROOFS

TIN ROOFS of )6 pitch and over should be made of a standing seam, while roofs
less than }§ pitch, of flat seams. Sheets 20”x28” are most generally used for a flat roof,
14”x20” will have more seams and stiffen the roof and prevents buckling and rattling
of the tin. Nails must never be exposed. The best brands of tin are always the cheap—
est in the end. I C roofing tin, in which the iron body weighs 50 pounds per 100 square
feet, is the most suitable for roofs. For spouts, valleys and gutters 1 X should be used, as
it is stiffer and less liable to dent. The lasting qualities of the tin depends entirely
on the coating and not on the thickness of the plate, for a good roof the coating should
be 40 pounds. Good rosin should be used for flux in soldering the seams; acids
should never be used as it will cause rusting of the tin wherever it comes in contact
with the edges and corners of the sheets. The number of l4”x20” sheets required
for a square is 59, a box will cover 192 square feet; for 20”x28” sheets it requires 28
sheets for one square. _Roof sheathing for tin roofs should be laid close together,
generally of matched flooring. The roof boards should be covered with building
paper under the tin, and if no paper is used, then the tin should be painted on the
under side. Tin roofs should be painted as soon as laid and repainted every three
to five years.

HANGING GUTTERS down spouts and ridge rolls should be made of No. 24 or 26
galvanized iron, down spouts corrugated.

SLATE ROOFS are laid on a board sheathing, generally tongued and grooved
boards. The thickness of slates varies from 5/8" to 1/1” and one side is generally
smooth; are graded No. 1 clear, No. 2 clear, No. l ribbon, No. 2 ribbon, hard beds
and ordinary bent. No. 1 clear is without any blemishes, No. 2 clear a slate without
ribbons and made from rough beds, No. 1 ribbon contains one or more ribbons, but is
as good a slate as No. 1 clear, No. 2 ribbon contains several ribbons and can not all
be covered, hard bed a clear Bangor slate not quite as smooth as No. l. Slates should
be always bored at the quarry for the nail holes, as it makes a better job than to punch
them. The Gauge of a Slate is the part that is exposed to the weather, which is
obtained by subtracting 3” from the length of the slate and dividing the remainder
by two. The gauge of a slate 18” long then would be 18” less 3”, which equals 15”;
15” divided by 2 equals 7%” the part exposed or gauge,

ELASTIC CEMENT :—The top course on the ridge, one foot each way from the
valley, and the hips and about two feet from the gutters should be bedded in elastic
cement.

FLASHINGz—By flashing is meant pieces of tin, zinc or copper laid over slate
and up against walls, chimneys, etc. Counter flashing the metal is laid in between
the courses of brick and turned down over the flashing. An open valley is generally
used where the tin or copper shows about 6” and the shingles laid over the edge of it.
The valleys should be 20” wide. Copper should be used for valleys, etc., for all slate,
asbestos or tile roofs.

ASBESTOS SHINGLES give very good results for covering on roofs; they will
not break as readily as slate. They are laid in the same way as slate and can be had
in different sizes.

ROOFING TILES are made from clay with overlapping edges and make a very
attractive roof and gives good satisfaction for lasting.

47

METAL SHINGLE roofs are also quite extensively used and make a very sub-
stantial roof with very little more cost than a wood shingle roof.

PATENT READY ROOFS :—T here are a number of patent roofs that give very
good satisfaction, but are mostly used in cheaper buildings and factories where roofs
are nearly flat, where they give good results. The advantage of ready roofing is that
any unexperienced man can do the work and it does not require any kettles to heat
the roofing cement. The cost is about the same as for a gravel roof.

GRAVEL ROOFS:—Most of the gravel roofs are formed by first covering the roof
boards with a layer of dry felt and then from three to five layers of asphaltic felt;
the layers of the felt lapping each other like shingles, so that only from 6 to 10 inches
of each layer is exposed, according to the number of layers of felt required.

Specifications for Slag or Gravel Roofing

Five (5) Plyz—First cover the sheathing boards with one layer of dry felt and
over this put four thicknesses of wool roofing felt, weighing not less than 15 pounds
single thickness to the square of 100 feet. This felt to be laid smoothly and well
cemented together the full width of the lap with best roofing cement, using not less
than 100 pounds of roofing cement to the square of 100 feet. All joinings along walls
and around openings should be carefully made. Next cover the roof with a heavy
coating of roofing cement and screened gravel, not less than one cubic yard of gravel to
600 square feet of roof surface. Gravel to be screened through a ig” mesh and free
from sand and loam. All walls and openings to be flashed. Gravel roofs should
have a pitch of not less than éé” and not more than %”. The only difference between
a slag and gravel roof is that crushed slag is used instead of gravel.

CORRUGATED IRON ROOFS:—Corrugated sheets of iron and steel are very
extensively used for the roofing and siding of buildings, sheds, etc. The best grades
are made of double refined, box—annealed iron or steel. The corrugations are usually
made lengthwise of the sheet. The thickness and weight is represented by the gauge
number. Gauge 24 is 4‘5 of an inch thick, gauge 26 T3; of an inch, 28 gauge €11 of
an inch; these gauges are the most generally used. Sometimes heavier sheets are
used, as heavy as 18 or 20. Gauges run from 7 up. Number 7 is ,3? of an inch thick
and No. 30, 3,1,; of an inch. The regular sizes of the corrugates are 2%), 1%, é/é and 136»
inches, measured from center to center, Some firms make .3, 3 and 2 inch corrugations.
Sheets are carried in stock 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 feet in length and 24 inches wide between
centers of the outer corrugations, so that the covering width is 24 inches. Sheets are
sold by the square (100 square feet), measuring the actual width and length of the
corrugated sheets. 3, 2% and 2-inch corrugates are most generally used. No. 26
and 28 gauge should be laid on close sheathing or have a cross strip every two feet.
A roof with less pitch than three inches to the foot should not be covered with corru-
gated sheets. The nails must be driven through the tops of the corrugations.
Galvanizing the black sheets adds about 21/13 ounces per square foot to the sheets.
A 28 gauge weighs about 10 ounces to the square foot. Corrugated sheets are also
used for house siding and ceilings. ~

BUILDING PAPERS:—The outside of buildings between the siding and sheathing
should have one layer of good heavy building paper. All double floors should have
building paper, especially for the first story of a building.

ESTIMATING figures given by the number of feet in depth. A basement 8 feet by 24 feet will have

. . . . 7. 1 cubic yards for each foot in depth; if the basement is 5 feet deep, take 5 times 7. I.
On page 49, Table Nos. 4 and 5 glVe approxrmate tables for estimating work. which W111 be 35.5 cubic yards.

The difference in cost of material and labor in different sections of the country makes
it impossible to estimate buildings correctly. Table No. 4 gives a very close estimate
of frame residences. Take a building 24x32 feet, the estimate cost according to the 1
table is $2600, to this add $300 for a 20—foot porch at $15 per foot in front, making % 1 2 3 4 5 6 i 7 8 9 10 20 30 40 50 60
the building cost $2900. A building in your locality may cost more or it may cost ’
less, according to the cost of material and labor. Mantels also add to the expense of
a residence, so that the only sure way of estimating the exact cost of a building is to
take each part of the building separately and figure the cost of same.

%

1

Estimates for the store buildings are about the same as for residence work they _2

vary according to location. The estimates given include steel ceilings, plate glass 3

fronts with prism, second and third stories divided into offices or living rooms. ——
According to the table given a three story building 40x120 feet will cost 824000, 4 -08 -15 -3 44 -6 -75 -9 14141.3 31-3 1.5 3. 4.5 6. 7.5 9.

5

6

7

8

9

11

 

Table 11. Number of cubic yards. 1 foot in depth. Length in feet.

 

 

.01 .02 .04 .06 0.8 .1 .11i .13 .15 .16 .19 .38 .57 .76 .92 1.3

 

.02 .04 .08 .11 .15

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C23
C20
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C20
00

.76 1.3 1.5 1.9 2.15

 

 

 

2 l
.04 .08 .05 .22 .3 .4 .44; .52 .6 .6 .75 1.5 2.2 3. 3.7 4.4
b I

.06 .22 .22 .33 .44 .8 .91. 1.1 2.2 3.3 4.4 5.5 6.6

 

 

 

and a two story building 20x120 feet will cost 3159000. For store buildings the same
as for residence work it is better to estimate each part of the work separately.

Table No. 6 gives the Number of Barrels that a Cistern will contain according to

‘.6 5.5 7.2 9.2.11.1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the diameter in feet and depth in feet. The depth in feet has reference to the number

 

 

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of feet below the spring of the arch, and the d1ameter has reference to the clear space 3 6 ) g i1 04 1 ‘3 1 h 1] (i ) 1 l '
on the inside of the cistern after it is completed. When laying out for a cistern, 1.) 3 6 9 ’1 2 1.5 1 8 13 07,2 4 12 7 3 6 9. :12. 15 518
allowances must be made for the thlckness of the walls. A cistern 7 feet in diameter -— ‘ ,_ , ‘ ‘ _ l ‘ l _ . l
and 5 feet in depth will hold 45.7 barrels of water. A 100 barrel cistern 7 feet in '_16 "53 '60 '9911'3‘) 1‘601‘9833'3 ,3 (All 9‘ 3 5 b 0 9'9 15 3 1‘) 0 19 8
diameter would be 11 feet deep, for. 8 feet 1n d1ameter would be 8 feet 5 1nches deep, .5 2 4 81 1 2 1143 3 3 4 *3 8 3 3 13.6 4. 8 13. 16. )0 34
9 feet 1n d1ameter would be 6 feet 4 inches deep, etc. ,3 _ § 1
Table No. 7 gives the Number of U. S. Gallons contained in Rectangular or Square .5 E E 44 '88 1 32 1 7b 3 2 2'6413 08 3 5‘) 3 90 4'4 8‘8 113‘2 1776 33 36‘4
Tanks one foot In depth. . If the required tank 1s more than one foot in depth, multlply 33 14 26 52 1.04 1 56 2 08 3 0 13.123364 11041 0g 5 3 11 1 :15 6 20.8 )0 .31 2
the number of gallons g1ven by the number of feet required. A tank 4 feet by 6.5 --- _ __ 3 __ ‘,
or 6% feet will hold, according to the table, 194.5 gallons; if the tank were 5 feet 3 16 3 -6 1-2 1-8 3-4 3-0 13-6 ‘4-3 4-8 15-4 0 0 13 0 13 0 34-0 30 “30
deep it would hold 5 times 194.5 gallons or 972.5 gallonS' divide this by 31% as there — — i i
I i ’ ‘ 5) k) ’ ‘ '5) "' 71‘" u ' i‘)
are 31% gallons In one barrel and we have 30.9 barrels. 1—83 661.321.982.6433 3 964.6- ) 28‘.) 94 6 6 113 ’ 19 8 26.4 33 59 6
Table No, 8_ Number of Bricks in a 4-inch Wall, This table gives a 4—inch wall 20 .36 .74 1.48 2.22 2.96 3.7 4 4410‘ 18 3.9";6 66 7.4 14 8 22 ’ .29 6 37 44.4
or the thickness of one brick‘ for an 8” or two brick wall take two times the number * — , E
- ’ - - . .E .7 .72.: 3.15. )"3. . i 7" ' _” ‘ 8'8."
g1ven; for a 12” wall take three times the number given; a 16” wall four times the E :3 7' 1 O4 31 3 (R i 9 4 0 10’ 390 106) ()3 I ' ’1) i h ) :0A 58 ‘13::
number. given, etc. A “fall 100 feet long and 12 feet high 4” thick willlcontain 22 .4 .81 1.62 2.43 3.24 4.054 86 ) 67 6487.29 8 1 16 2 24 3 32 4 40.5 48.6
(according to the figures g1ven) 9000 brick. A 12” wall will take three times 9000, — ~+ _ H ‘) _ _ _ ‘_ 7 _ _ ‘ _ _ ‘ _ 3:4
which is 27000 bricks. A wall 36 feet long and 9 feet high will contain 2430 bricks. 23 fl '801-‘02'550-404-35 1 0 95 0 80 ‘ ("’1 8") 1‘ ~0 130*) 3+0 43-0 101-
If the wall were 12” thick and faced With pressed brick, it would take 2430 face brick 24 .44 .9 1.8 2.6 3.6 +5 15 4 b 3 7 1 1’ 1 9. 13 527 36 45 ‘54
and two times that amount or 4860 common brick. _ __ ‘ _ ,
' o . . x / 1 F' . l 'i 1 ir- !- y- 3 1 _ 3 ,— 1,. l~- ‘
Table No. 9 gives the Number of Perch in a Stone Wall 12” thick, taking 24.75 25 '46 ‘931'843‘0'3'0‘54‘0 1‘ L)" 44‘ 305 2“ 9") 15 J‘ 3’ 0 5b 8 4° 10° 3
“b“? feet to the PerCh‘ Thls ““1““?wale f9“ 15 very deom “Edy a? 15-5 cubic 26 .48 .96 1.92 2883.84 4.8 ' 76 6.72 7 688.64 9.6 19.2 28.8 38.4 48. 57.6
feet IS more generally used. A wall 26 feet long and 7 feet high W111 contam 7.3 perch _ __ ‘ __ -1.
for each foot in thickness. If the wall is 24” thick, then take twice 7. 3 or 14. 6 perch. 27 -5 1- 23. 3- 4 5. 6. 7. 8 ‘1. 10. 20. 30. 40. 50. (30.
Table No. 10 is the same as Table No. 9 using 16 5 cubic feet for a perch A wall I _ —T . . . . - . . - . . . . . _ .
. . . ' _ ‘ _ 28 .521.042.083.124.165.2 1.24 28832936104 20.8912 41.? *2. =2.4
26 feet long by 7 feet high Will have 11 perch; 1f the wall were 1 foot 6 1nches thick, _ __ ) I ) i ) 0 1‘?”
take 1% times 11 which is 16.5, the number of perch in the wall. 29 .54 1.07 2143.21 4.28 5.35 6.45 77.498.56 96310.7 21.4 32.1 42.8 53.5 64.2
Table No. 11 on this page gives the Number of Cubic Yards for Excavating One 30 '55 1.1 2.2 3.3 4.4 5_5 (H; $7.7 8‘8 9'9 11. 122. #33 44_ 55 66

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foot in Depth. If the excavating is more than 'one foot in depth, then multiply the
48

 

 

Wldth In Fact.

Wldth 111 Foot.

Round Tank: or Ciuternl.

Square or Rectmgulu Tank: One Foot Deep.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Amt“ 0‘ M WEI-w including not “I Fumes 0nd modenlu Plumbing. 70519 No. 8. Dimeter in Feet. . Table No. 1. Length in Pet.
so as 84 as a so 88 u so a 40 42 u 45 a 50 52 54 56 5 s 7 a 9 1o 11 12 13 14 15 2 2.5 3 9.5 4 4.5 5 5.5 5 5.5 7 7.5 a 9.5 9
16 13001400 15001500 1700 1800 1900 2000 4 18.7 26.0 30.0 47.7 60.6 75.5 90.2 107.4 1261 146.4 167.8 2 29.2 37.46 44.88 52.4 59.8 07.3 74.8 82.3 89.8 97.3104.7112.2119..7127.1 134.6
m 1450 1550 1650 17501850 1950 m 2150 6 23.3 33.0 45.7 59.7 75.5 93.2 112.8 134.3 157.0 182.8 209.8 2.5 37.4 46.15 56.10 65.5 74.8 84.2 93.5 102.8112.2 121.6131.0140.3149.0 159.0108.3
”16m! 17m 1&0 Isuu zvuu 2n.- n" 23(1)}2500 2700 29m 3 8 28. 40.3 54.8 71.7 96.6 111.9 135.4 161.1 189 1219.3 251.8 .3 3 44.8 56.10 67.32 78.5 89.8101. 112.2 123.4134.6145.8 l57.0168.3179.5190.7 202.9
317501350 213., 1. .1. 2500 2700 2900 3250 1; 7 32.7 47. 64 83.0 105.7 130.0 158. 188 220.0 255.0 293.7 : 8.5 52.4 65.5 78.5 91.6 114.7 117.8 130.9 144.0 157.1 170.2 183.3 196.4 209.5 222.5 235.0
a 1800 1950 2100 “w m 9450 96m 2300 3000 3200 3400 3000 5 s 37.3 53.7 73.0 95.5 120.9 149.2 180.5 214.8 252 1292.4 335.7 g 4 59.8 74.8 89.8 104.1 119.7 134.6149.6 164.5179.5194.5 209.5 224.4 239.4 254.3 209.3
as “m ,m. 2...... 2450 “W, «mm ..... U... 3400 3600 33m 4000 4200 8 9 42. 60.4 82.2 107.4 136.0 107.9 203.1 241.7 283 7 329. 377.7 a“ 4.5 67.3 84.2 101.0 117.8 134.6 151.5 168.3 185.2 201.9 218.8 235.6 252.5 269.3 286.18030
‘- a... I50 230“ “"" auuu m 3200 3400 3600 3800 4000 4200 4400 4600 4800 5000 5200 10 46.7 07.1 91.4 119.4 151 1 186.5 225.7 268.0 315.2 305.5 419.6 5 74.8 93.5 112.2 130.9 149.6 168.3 187.0 205.7 224.4 243 1261.8 280.5 299.2 317.9 330.6
-- ---- 2m 0200 £150 “M m ”M m 36““ 38m 4000 4200 4400 4600 4800 5000 5200 5400 11 57.3 73.9 100.5 131.3 106.2 205 1 248.2 295.4 346.7 402.1 461.6 5.5 82.3 102.8 123.4 144.0 164.5 185 2 205.7 226.3 246.8 267.4 288.0 308.5 329.1349.7 370.3
a. ‘1- "III 2&9 m 3"“ 11m 3600 3800 4000 4200 4400 4600 4800 5000 5200 5400 5600 12 56. 80.6 100.7 143.2 181.3 223.8 270.8 322.3 378.2 438.6 563.5 6 89.81122 134.6 157.1 179.5 201.9 224.4 246.8 264.3 291.7 314.2 336.6 359.0 381.5 404.0
m 3... 1.. A... man mm mm qmn 712m 4000 4200 4400 4600 4800 5000 5200 5400 5550 5900 (3200 lele Ila. 8. Number of Brick in I 4" Wall. 8" W111 2 times, 12” 3 timel, 16" 4 final, etc. Length in Feet.
an an 2700 3000 39'“ 2.4m 33"“ 29m 4000 4200 4400 4600 4800 5000 5200 5400 5700 6000 0300 0500 1 6 8 10 1.2 14 16 18 20 22 24 28 28 30 32 34 36 33 40 42 44 46 48 50 60 70 BO 90 100 1.
u- U"- 34"“ "“" “V“ “m“ 4400 4600 4850 5100 5350 56(1) 5850 6200 6450 6800 7000 2 00 120 150 180 210 240 270 300 380 360 390 420 450 480 510 540 570 600 630 660 690 720 750 900 1050 1200 1350 1500 2
w “in“ “0““ "°““ "‘M “m" “M ‘93.} 4850 5100 5350 5600 5850 6200 6450 6800 7100 7400 7 fl 3 I35 180 225 270 315 360 405 450 495 540 585 630 675 720 765 810 855 900 945 990 1035 1080 1125 1350 1575 1800 2025 2250 3
For Slate Roofs add 4% of the cast. 4 180 240 300 360 420 480 540 600 660 720 780 840 900 960 1020 1080 1140 1200 1260 1320 1380 1440 1500 1800 2100 2400 2700 3000 4
V For Hardwood finish add 10% of the cost. 5 2.15 '100 '175 450 52'. 600 675 7.30 825 900 975 1050 1125 1200 1275 1350 1425 1500 1575 1650 1725 1800 1875 2250 2625 3000 3375 3750 6
Pmcha. add $15 per lineal foot {or a 10 foot porch and $10 for an 8 foot porch. 6 270 300 450 540 630 720 810 900 990 1080 1170 1260 1350 1440 1530 1620 1710 1800 1890 1980 2070 2160 2250 2700 3150 3600 4050 4500 6
Bay Wi‘ws, add V) the width of the bay to the Width of the building. "—2 7 315 420 525 630 735 840 945 1050 1 155 1260 1365 1470 157a 1680 1785 1890 1995 2100 2205 2810 2415 2520 2625 3150 3675 4100 4725 5250 7
For Odd-shaped buildings take the number of square feet of floor space and multiply b7 $3.20 per square foot. .5 B 360 430 000 720 8-10 900 1080 1200 1320 1440 1500 1680 1800 1920 2040 2160 2280 2400 2520 264.0 2760 2880 3000 3690 4200 4800 5400 6000 6
For Cottage deduct 25‘} or ,‘1 of the above figures. H ‘73 9 405 540 675 810 94.5 1080 1.315 12150 1485 1520 1655 1790 2025 2060 2295 2430 2565 2700 2835 2970 3105 3240 3375 4050 4725 5400 607.: 6750 9
For brick buildmgs add 10“; or 1-10. :010 450 600 750 900 1050 1300 1350 1500 11350 1800 1950 2100 2250 2400 2550 2700 2850 3000 3150 3300 3450 3600 3750 4500 5250 0000 6750 7500 10
7 all 4'35 060 825 090 115.3 1330 148.1 16.50 1815 1980 2145 2310 2475 2640 2805 2970 3135 3300 3465 3630 3795 3960 4125 4950 5775 6600 7425 8250 11
g 12 540 7.50 000 1080 1:300 1410 1620 1800 11180 2160 2340 2520 2700 2880 3060 3240 3420 3600 3780 3960 4140 4320 4500 5400 6300 7200 8100 0000 12
_— 1 3 7185 780 u75 1170 1303 1550 1745 1940 13145 2340 2535 27.3) 2925 3120 3315 3510 3705 3900 4095 4290 4485 4680 4875 5850 .6825 7800 8775 9750 13
14 0210 840 1050 1260 1470 1680 1890 2100 2320 2530 2740 2940 3150 3300 1510 3780 3990 4200 4410 4620 4830 5045 5250 6300 7350 8400 9450 10500 14
v1 15 61.1 000 11'"; 1350 1575 1800 2025 2250 2485 2800 2935 3150 3875 3600 3825 4050 4275 4500 4725 4950 5175 5400 5625 6750 7875 9000 10125 11250 15
1.6 7;!“ 000 1:00 1440 1680 1920 2160 2400 110.34) 13890 3130 3360 3600 38-10 4030 4320 4560 4800 5040 5280 5.220 5760 6000 7200 8400 9600 10800 12000 16
Table NO- 5- Store and Ofice Bulldings. 1.0 Story ”d Basement including Steam Heat. Length 1n Feet. 17 765 1020 1:75 15:10 1785 2040 2:95 2550 2.915 :1070 3325 3570 3825 4080 4335 4590 4845 5100 5355 5610 5805 6120 6375 7650 8925 10200 11475 1275617
B 80 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 M 56 60 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 18 810 1080 1350 1020 1890 2160 2430 2700 2980 11250 3520 3780 40.30 4320 4590 4860 5130 5400 5670 5940 6210 6480 6750 8100 9450 10800 12150 13500 18
16 1120 1200 1280 1360 1440 1520 1600 1680 1760 1840 1920 2000 2080 2100 221.0 21120 L-fi'Ju 2800 3200 3000 4:100 4-100 4800 19 855 1140 1425 1710 1095 2280 2505 2840 3135 3420 3705 3990 4275 4560 4845 5130 5415 5700 5985 6270 6555 68-10 7125 8550 9975 11400 12825 14250 19
18 1260 1350 1440 1530 1620 1710 1800 1890 1980 2070 2160 2250 2340 2:430 25‘. 2:610 3700 .3150 3000 4051) 4300 4950 5400 20 900 1200 1500 1800 2100 ’400 2760 3000 32100 3000 3900 4200 4500 4800 5100 5400 5700 6000 6300 6600 6900 7200 7500 9000 10500 12000 13500 15000 20
20 1400 1500 ‘1600 1700 1800 1900 2000 2100 2200 2300 2480 2500 2:000 2:700 2800 1:900 3000 35:10 4000 4500 .3000 5500 0000 Tnble lo. 9. Number of Perch 24.75 cu. ft. each. 12” W111. Length in feet.
22 1540 1631) 1760 1870 1980 2090 2200 2310 2420 2540 2650 2760 2870 2980 3100 210 3320 3850 4400 «1950 55130 60.80 06-10 6 B 10 12 14 1.6 18 2O 22 24 2B 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 60 60 70 80 90 100
24 1680 1800 1920 2040 2140 22 2400 2520 2640 2760 2880 3000 3120 3240 3360 3480 3600 4200 4800 5100 6000 6600 7200 .13 17 .2 .25 .27 .38 .37 .4 .45 .48 .53 .55. .6 .05 .68 .72 .77 .8 .85 .88 .92 .95 1. 1.2 1.4 1.6 1.8 2.
Two Storin-ndB-ument. l 25 .34 .4 _ .5 .55 .65 .75 .8 .9 .95 1.05 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.35 1.45 1.55 1.6 1.7 1.75 1.85 1.9 2. 2.4 2.8 3 2 3.6 4. 1
241470 1575 1680 1785 1890 1995 2100 2205 2310 2415 2520 2625 2730 2335 2:940 3045 3150 3675 4200 1725 5250 5775 6300 2 .51 .67 .8 1. 1.1 1.3 1.5 1.6 11.8 1.9 2.1 2.2 2.4 2.0 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.2 3.4 3.5 3.7 3.8 4. 4.8 5.6 6.4 7.1 8.1 2
16168318001920 2040 21011 cm 2400 2520 2640 2700 2880 8000 3120 3210 33110 3480 3600 4200 4810 5400 6000 6600 7200 E 3 .72 1. 1.2 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.2 2.4 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.4 3.6 8.8 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.8 5.0 5.3 5.5 5.7 6. 7.2 8.4 9.6 10.8 12.1 3
181890 2025 2160 2295 zadu 250:) 2700 2335 2970 3105 3240 3375 3510 3645 3780 3915 4050 4725. 5400 6075 0750 71155 8100 E 4 1. 1.3 1.6 1.9 2.2 2.6 2.9 3.2 3.5 3.8 4.1 4.4 4.8 5.1 5.4 5.7 6. 0.4 6.7 7.1 7.4 7.7 8.1 9.6 11.2 12.8 14.4 16.1 4
20 2100 2250 2400 2550 21w LOW 3000 3150 3300 3450 3600 3750 3900 4050 4200 4350 4500 5050 6000 0750 7500 8250 9000 a 6 1.2 1.6 2. 2.4 2.8 3.2 3.6 4.0 4.4 4.8 5.2 5.6 6.0 6.4 6.8 7.2 7.6 8.1 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10.1 12.1 14.1 16.1 18.2 20.2 5
22 2310 2475 2640 2805 2970 3135 3300 3465 3630 3795 3000 4125 4200 4-155 4620 4785 4950 .5775 0600 7425 8:150 ‘1075 9900 a 6 1.5 1.9 2.4 2.9 3.4 3.8 4.3 4.8 5.3 5.8 6.2 6.7 7.2 7.7 8.2 8.6 9.1 9.6 10.1 10.6 11.0 11.5 12.1 14.4 10.8 10.2 31.7 24.2 6
24 2520 2700 2880 3060 324-0 ”1420 3600 17m "“6“ 4140 4320 4.500 4680 4300 5040 5220 5400 6300 7200 8100 ‘JUOO 9900 10800 7 1.7 2.2 2.8 3.4 3.9 4.5 5.0 5.6 6.1 0.7 7.3 7.8 8.4 9. 9.5 10.1 10.6 11.2 11.9 12.4 12.9 13.5 14.1 16.8 19.7 2.2.5 15.3 28.2 7
28 2730 2925 3120 3315 ’15- . U" 3900 3°00 400.5 4200 4485 4080 4870 500.3 5260 54:35 5050 63135 7800 8580 0360 10330 11700 B 1.9 2.6 3.2 3.8 4.4 5.1 5.7 6.4 7.0 7.7 8.3 9. 9.6 10.2 10.9 11.5 12.1 12.8 13.4 14.1 11.7 15.4 16.1 10.2 22.4 "25.6 28.9 32." 8
28 2940 3150 3.360 3570 3780 3990 4200 4310 4520 4730 4940 5150 5360 5570 5780 5990 01:00 7350 8400 9350 10300 11350 12600 9 2.2 2.9 3.6 4.3 5. 5.7 8.5 7.2 7.9 8.6 9.4 10.1 10.8 11.5 12 2 13. 13.6 14.4 15.2 16. 16.6 17.34 18.2 21.7 25.3 28.0 32.5 36.2 9
30 3150 3375 3600 3825 4050 4275 4500 472‘ 45"" 5175 5400 51325 5850 0075 1.8300 6525 (1750 7875 9000 10125 11250 12375 13500 10 2.4 3.2 4. 4.8 5.6 6.4 7.2 8.1 8.8 9.6 10.4 11.2 12.1 12.8 13.6 14.4 15.2 16.1 16.9 17.6 18.4 19.3 20.2 24.2 28.2 62.3 35. ’ 40.2 10
Three Sofia and Eminent. Table Ila. 10. 18.6 cu. ft. to the Perch. 12" W111. Length in Feet.
14 1960 2100 2240 2380 2520 000 my 294“ 71'8“ 3220 3360 3500 3610 3750 3920 4060 4200 4900 50(1) 6300 7000 7900 8400 6 3 10 12 14 16 13 20 22 24 26 23 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 60 70 80 90 1.00
18 2240 2400 2560 2720 "8*“ 30‘“ 3200 3360 3520 3680 3840 4000 4100 4320 4480 4640 4800 5600 0400 7200 8000 8800 9600 .18 .25 .3 .4 45 .5 55 .0 65 .7 .8 .85 .9 .95 1.5 1.1 1.15 1.2 1.25 1.3 1.4 1.45 1.55 1.9 2.2 2.4 2.8 3.
18 2520 2700 2880 3060 3240 3420 3600 3780 3960 4140 4320 4500 4680 4800 5040 5220 5400 (3300 7200 8100 9000 990010800 1 156 .5 .6 .8 .9 .95 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.6 1.7 1.8 1.9 2.1' 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.8 2.9 3.0 3.7 4.3 4.9 5.5 6.1 1.
% -auu 3000 3200 3400 3600 3800 4000 4200 4400 4000 4800 5000 5200 5400 5000 5800 00(0 7000 8000 9000100001100012000 :6, 2 .721. 1.2 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.2 2.4 2.6 2.9 3.7 3.4 3.6 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.8 5.1 5.3 5.6 5.8 6.1 7.3 8.5 9.7 10.9 12.1 2
22 3080 3300 3520 3740 3960 4180 4400 4620 4840 5060 52.80 5500 5720 5040 6100 0380 6600 7700 8800 9900110001310013200 E 3 1.1 1.5. 1.8 2.2 2.6 2.9 3.8 3.6 3.9 4.3 4.7 5.1 5.4 5.8 6.2 .6.5 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.4 8.7 9.1 11.0 12.8 14.6 16.4 18.1 3
24 3360 3600 3840 4080 4320 45% 4800 5040 5280 4520 4760 ‘0000 0240 0480 6720 6960 7200 8400 960010800120001320014400 E1 4 1.5 1.9 2.4 2.9 3.5 3.9 4.4 4.8 5.2 5.7 6.3 0.8 7.2 7.7 8.3 8.7 9.1 9.610.1 10.5 11.2 11.6 12.1 14.7 17.1 10.5 21.9 24.2 4
36 3640 3900 4160 4420 4680 4940 5200 5460 572015980 6240 6500 6760 7020 7230 7540 7800 91001120011700130001430013'00 a 6 1.8 2.4 3.0 3.7 4.3 4.8 5.4 6.0 6.5 7.1 7.9 8.5 9.0 9.7 10.3 10.8 11.3 12.0 12.7 13.2 14.0 14.5 15.2 18.3 21.3 24.3 27.3 30.2 5
fl ““2" “m" 4480 4760 "‘4" 5’12“ 5600 5880 61606440 6720 7000 7280 7500 7840 8120 8400 9800 11200 12600 14000 1540016800 8 2.2 2.9 3.6 4.4 5.2 5.8 6.6 7.2 7.8 8.6 9.4 10.2 10.8 11.6 12.4 13.0 13.6 14.4 15.2 15.8 16.8 17.4 18.2 22.0 25.6 29.2 32.8 36.2 8
30 4200 4500 4800 5100 54m 57m 6000 6300 6600 6900 7200 7500 78m 8100 84m 8700 9000 10500 1200013500 15000 10m 1800) 7 2.5 3.4 4.2 6.1 6.0 6.8 7:7 8.4 9.1 10.0 11.0 11.9 12.6 13.5 14.5 15.2 15.9 16.8 17.7 18.4 19.0 20.3 21.2 25.7 29.9 34.1 38.3 42.3 7
32 4-180 4800 5120 5440 " 64m 6720 7040 7360 7680 m 83% 8640 8960 9280 96(1)]1200 128(1114400 160.10 17600 18120 I 2.9 3.8 4.8 5.8 7.0 7.8 8.8 9.6 10.4 11.4 12.6 13.6 14.4 15.4 16.0 17.4 18.2 19.2 20.2 21.0 22.4 23.2 24.2 29.4 34.2 39.0 43.8 48.4 8
40 5600 6000 64006800 7200 7609 mm mm woo 1m1oa101o4001m001126011m12000140001600018000 20000 2200024000 9 8.3 4.3 5.4 6.0 7.8 8.7 9.8 10.8 11.7 12.3 14.2 15.3 16.2 17.4 18.6 19.5 20.4 21.6 22.8 23.7 25.2 26.1 27.3 33.0 38.4 43.8 49 2 54.4 o

 

49

 

SAFE LOADS FOR I-BEAMS

On page 51 is given Safe Loads 'for Steel I—Beams in tons of 2000 pounds each.
Span in feet has reference to the width of the opening that the I—Beam is to span.
Pounds per foot refers to the number of pounds contained in each foot in length of
the beam. The figure opposite the number of pounds per foot. gives the number
.of tons that the beam will carry according to the span. A 24—inch 100 pound beam
will carry one hundred five and three—tenths (105. 3) tons in a 10—foot span, while the
same weight beam with a span of 20 feet will only carry 52. 7 tons, and in a 30—foot
span it will carry 29. 2 tons.

EXAMPLE. On page 35 is shown a store building 20 feet wide from center of
walls, leaving the span 19 feet in the clear. we will call the span 20’, as we do not
give a 19—foot span in the table. We will now figure the weight that the beam will
have to carry. According to the measurements given, there is 15 feet of 12—inch
brick wall above the I-beam. Brick work in the wall weighs about 120 pounds to the
cubic foot when laid in lime mortar. “’alls are generally figured solid, that is, figure
the wall as if there were no openings. The wall, being 20 feet long by 15 feet high,
contains 300 cubic feet of brick work at 120 pounds, which equals 30000 pounds.
In a building where the joists reach from one wall to the other. the weight of the floor
comes mostly on the side wall. The end joists being bolted to the l—beams brings
some of the weight on the front girder. part of the weight of the roof will also come
on the girder. “'here the joists rest on the girder, we take half the width of the span
and add it to the weight of the wall over the girder. In this case where the joists rest
on the side walls. we will only take qne—fourth of the span, which will be 5 feet. Floor
weights for a residence are generally figured at 70 pounds per square foot of floor
space, and the roof 50 pounds per square foot, making for the second floor and the
roof 120 pounds in all per square foot. Figuring 5 feet by 20 feet floor space we have
100 square feet at 120 pounds each. making 12000 pounds to be added to the weight
of the brick work which is 30000 pounds, making 18000 pounds in all. Divide 48000
by 2000 and we have 24 tons to be carried by the girder. For a 12—inch brick wall it
will be necessary to have two I—beams bolted together, in order to give more bearing
for the brick work; then each beam will be required to carry half of the weight or 12
tons. Referring to the Table No. 1 and a 20—foot span, you will find that a 12—inch
beam 40 pounds to the foot will carry a weight of 12 tons. By using two of these
beams you will have a girder strong enough to carry the required weight. The
girders should rest on the walls half the thickness of the walls and should have cast
iron plates under them S”x18”x1”.

SAFE LOADS FOR STEEL CHANNELS

Steel channels are figured in the same way as for steel beams; they are sometimes
used in place of I—beams, where the load is not so heavy or where it does not require
such a wide bearing. Sometimes they are used for an outside facing over store fronts
by having the flat side out; it answers the same purpose as a face plate and costs less.

Safe Loads in Tons of Steel Angles. Steel angles are figured in the same way as
for I-beams. Size of Legs gives the size of the legs in inches and the thickness of the
metal. A 6”x0”x 177;” means that the angles are (3 inches each way and the steel is, {2:
of an inch thick. Angles are used in a good many different ways. They are quite
frequently used over openings in brick walls instead of arches, the brick are then laid
straight across theopening.

Table No. 4 gives safe loads of Rectangular and Square Columns and No. 5 of
Round Columns. Height in feet gives the height of the column. The number. as
4X6X%. means that the column is 1x0 inches and the metal is ,31 inch thick. For

round columns the diameter is given and the thickness of the metal. The figures
under the length in feet gives the number of tons that the column will carry.
Columns should have base plates large enough to carry the required weight, according
to the material that the column rests on. A 7”x7”x%” column 12 feet high will
carry 67 tons. To find the size column required. figure the weight that it is to carry
and, by referring to the table, you can find the size of a column required. The table
given on this page gives the strength of wood columns, which can be found in the same
way as for iron columns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Safe Loads in Tons for Yellow Pine Column.

3333; 8 1o 11 12 13 14 15 16 . 18 20 ; 24
1x 1 6. 5. 1. 3. / 3

1x 6 7. 6.5 6. 5.5 3—0“
6x 6 11.5 11. 10.5 10.2 9 8 9.1 ‘ 9 5 ’ 9

6x 8 15. 1 11.1 , 11. 13.7 13 3 13 12 6 12 2 i “‘7‘
6x10 18.8 1 18. 1 17.5 f 17:__’ 16.6 i 16.2 ‘ 15.8 15 3

8x 8; 21. 1 20.3 1 20. i 19.8 19 1 l 18 8 18.5 18 2 1, 5

8x10} 26. . 25.5 g 25. 21.6 i 21. f 23 6 23.2 22 3 21 7

8x12f 30.8 i 30.5 ‘ 30 >9 5 28 9 i 28 1 27 7 27 3 26 2 3—”—
10x10§ 37.53 33. 3 32.5 ' 32. , 31.5; 31. : 30.71 30 2 29.1 28 5
16x12; 15. 10. 39.2 38.5 37.7 J 37. 5 36.5 é 36. 35. 31. ____
10x11i 52.5 16 15 5 15 11 2 13 5 3 i 12 3 11 , 10

l2leE 51. p 53. , 50. 3 17.5 16.8E 16.3 g 15.7 i 15 11. i 3 11
12x11} 63. y 62. 1 59. j 55. , 51.5 31 53 52. 31 50 17
12x16; 72. , 70. a 67. p 63 3 62.5 62. y 61. 1—-60. i 59. g 58. l 51
11x11; 71. j 73. 72. . 71. . 68.‘ 65. . 61. ; 63. j 62 1 61. ‘ 58
16x16? 96. 95. 91. ; 93. ‘ 92. j 91 ‘ 85. 81. i 83 i 82. 78
18x18: 121. _ 120. 119. J 118. 3 117. 1 116. j 115. 110. 1 108 106 _100
20x20 150. 119. 118. 117. ‘ 117. j 116. j 115. 110. . 136. ‘ 132 __f;;
g Diameter Round Columns. _ _ 7

515 7.3 7. 6.8 . 6.5 i 6.3 6.2 T E i

7}: 1 11 5 11. 13 7 13 2 l 13 12.8 12.5 i 12.2 1 ‘ “ih—

913 1 )1 23. 22 8 22.6 ‘ 22. 21.6: 21.1 21.1 1 20.5

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51

 

 

LENGTH OF RAF TERS

Tables No. 1 and 2 on the opposite page gives the length
of Common, Hip and Valley Rafters for gable and hip roofs.
These tables are very handy when figuring out a lumber bill,
as it gives you the exact length of the rafters from the plate
up. Add the length of the rafter for the projection and you
have the full length of the timber required for the rafter. Take
a building 20 feet wide and a half pitch roof, referring to Table
No. 1 we find that a building 20 feet wide with a half pitch
roof requires a timber 14 feet 1 inch long, to this add the projec—
tion which will be according to the width of the cornice. For a
12—inch projection it will take 17 inches and you would require
a timber 14 feet 1 inch plus 17 inches, or 15 feet 6 inches for the
rafters. It would take a 16—foot timber. In a half pitch roof
by adding 5 inches to each foot in width you will also have the
length of the rafter. A two-foot projection for the cornice will
then take two times 17 inches or 34 inches. and a three-foot three
times 17 or 51 inches. The same building for a third pitch roof
will take a 12-foot rafter without the projection.

Table No. 2 gives the length of 3. Hip or Valley Rafter. Take
a building 20 feet wide. For a half pitch roof it will take a rafter
17 feet 4 inches long and for a third pitch 1.3 feet 7% inches.

Table No. 3, Lengths of Jacks, gives the lengths of jacks
when they are spaced 12—inch centers. The numbers 1 to 20
refer to the number of jacks required, and the numbers below
them give the lengths of the jacks in feet and inches, not includ—
ing the cornice projection. For a half pitch roof the first jack
will be 1 foot 5 inches long, the second one 2 feet 10 inches, etc.

Table No. 4 gives the Length of Jacks Spaced 16-inch
Centers. The first jack for a half pitch roof will be 1 foot 10%
inches, the second 3 feet 9 inches, etc.

Table No. 5 gives the Length of Jacks Spaced 24-inch Cen-
ters and is worked the same way as Table Nos. 3 and 1.

Table No. 6 gives the Number of Timbers Required for a
Building when spaced 16—inch centers; the first row of figures
give the number of feet to be divided into spaces of 16 inches
each, and the second row the number of pieces that it will re—
quire. A building 34 feet long will require 26 pieces spaced 16—
inch centers.
for the starting piece.

Table No. 7 gives the Greatest Center Loads of Wood
Beams, but when the load is distributed evenly over the beam
instead of in the center, then take 1% times the load given.
A 2’ ’ x8” joist with a 12-foot span will carry 640 pounds in the

To the number of pieces given you must add one '

center of the joist, but if uniformily distributed it will carry
960 pounds. The weights given will not bend the wood enough
to crack the plastering. If the joists were spaced 16—inch cen—
ters in a 12 foot span, there would be 16 square feet of floor
space and as one 2”X8” joist carries 960 pounds, for 16 square
feet there would be 960 divided by 16, or 60 pounds to the
square foot. A residence should be figured at 70 pounds per
square foot, so that a 2”x8” would be rather light for a 12-foot
span and, although they are used quite frequently, the spring is
liable to crack the plastering. A 2”x10” joist should then be
used for a 12—foot span. 2”x12” joists are generally used for
store buildings 20 feet wide and spaced 12—inch centers, but
3”x12” joists give better satisfaction and will not spring so
much. When using good yellow pine timbers, you can take
two times the amount given in the table.

Number of feet board measure is given in Table No. 8 from
10 to 30 feet in length. The size of the timber is given in inches.
A timber 2”X10” contains 17 feet for a 10 foot length, 20 for
a 12 foot length, 23 for a 11, etc. When you have your lum-
ber bill made out for a building. take the number of pieces re—
quired of each size and multiply it by the number of feet con—
tained in each piece. If you had ’75 2”x8”x11’, we find that
one 2”x8”x1-1’ contains 19 feet. By multiplying 75 by $11 you
will have the number of feet contained in the 75 pieces. Turn
to the multiplication table on page 32 and you will notice that
75 times 19 is 1425 or 1425 feet of lumber. On this page is
also given a table giving the number of nails contained in one
pound.

Nails Required for Different Kinds of Work

1000 Shingles 31/2 to 5 lbs. 4d.

1000 Lath 7 lbs. 3d. fine.

1000’ Siding 18 to 20 lbs. 6d.

1000’ Shiplap and Fencing 20 lbs. 8d. or 25 lbs. 10d.
1000’ 6” Flooring 25 lbs. 8d., 30 lbs. 10 d.

1000’ 4” Flooring 35 lbs. 8d.

1000’ 2”x,3/§” Matched Flooring 20 lbs. 4d. finish.
1000’ 1”x2” Furring lineal foot 20 lbs. 10d.

1000 pes. 1”x3” Bridging 30 lbs. 8d.

1000’ Joist on Frame Building 20 lbs. 20d., on Brick 12 lbs.
1000’ Studding 18 lbs. 20d. and 10 lbs. 8d.

1000’ Finishing 20 lbs. 8d.

52

 

No. of Nails per pound.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Length Gauge No. to

in. pound

3 Fine 1 16 1 160
3 Shingle 1 1/4 13 430
3 Common 1 M 15% 800
4 Shingle 1%; 12 280
4 Common 1 1/2 12 V3 316
4 Casing 1 % 14 475
4 Finishing 1% 15 585
6 Common 2 1 1 ,1/3 181
6 Casing 2 12 y“, 236
6 Finishing 2 13 1 2 309
8 Common 2 % 10 11 106
8 Casing 2% 11%, 145
8 Finishing 2 V2 12 ’16 189
10 Common ' 3 9 70
10 Casing 3 10 V2 94
10 Finishing 3 ] 1%, 121
12 Common 3 M 9 63
12 Casing _ 31/4 10 V2 87
12 Finishing 3h 111/4 113
16 Common 3 V2 8 49
16 Casing 3 V3 10 7 1
16 Finishing 3 1/3' 1 1 90
16 Spikes 3 V; 5 30
20 Spikes 4; 4 23
30 Spikes 4 V2 5 17
40 .— Spikes 5 . 2 13
50 Spikes 5% 1 10
60 Spikes 6 . 1 8

 

 

 

 

TABLE OF RAFTERS

 

N0. 1. LENGTH OF COHEN! METERS FOR GABLE ROOPS 11' FEET AND INCHES. WIDTH 0F BUILDXRG III IEET AID mCEES.

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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.a- 9 4-114 4- 0 0101-, ‘- 3 2 71-2 0- 0 4- 01-, c- 0 7-113 7- 0 7-1012 3- 3 s— 71, 9- 0 9- 415 9- 9 10- E 10- 11 10-101a11- a 11- 71,112- 0 12- 41412- 0 1:; 1,14 13-‘0 12-101/2 11- 3 14- 7%15- 15 41,415- 0 10-11511- 0 » 1r-1o1/,17- :1 17- 716 18. 13- 0 10- 5 ~20- 3 21- 0 .11- 0 22- 0 .11- .11- 9 :5- 0 20- 3 27- 23- 5 30.

Lengtholjukn. 1
lo. 5. lo. 01 Inch. 12” Cemen. No. d. No. of lulu. “fume”. Ho. 5, N01 0! Inch 24" Centen.
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”- n 1- 51‘ 2-11 4- 5 5-1014 7- 41. 8—10 103% 11- 111-51-1- 31-114- 9 10— 21,17- 0 111- 2 .10- 7 22-‘1 23— 7 2:»1 2r- 7 23— 0 29- 6 1—1114 3-11 210 7-10 0- 0 11- 111,310- 71415-0 17— 0%19- 51,5 21- 5 2:1- .114 25- 4 27- .1111, 20- 21,-, 2-111,2 5401/, &10 11- 1.11_. 1.1- 0 17- s .11,- 7 21— 7 10- 7 29- 0 1s
1 n1- 5 7,10 4- a 5 715 7-1 1+ 51: 2-11 11- 4 1.1- 8 14-1 1'- 0 16-11 18- 4 111-10 21-2 22- 7 24- 2:,- 4 20-10 212 2 1-1014 .7- 0 z- s 7- 0 9- 5 11- 31,413- 21/215- 17-. 18—l0 20- 0 22- 7 24- 0 20- 5 20 21,15 2-10 :1- 71,:_. s- 51;. 11- 1 11- 1 11-11 10-10 22- 7 25 4 28- 2 12
1 2'11- 414 2- 8% 4- 1 5- 5 0- 0 10 2 1.» 17 11- 1.1- 4 13- 7 1H1 17:017- 8 111- 20- 4 21- a 23-1 24- 5 2.2 9 27-1 1- 31/, 1— 7 5- 5 7- 2 9- 1010 1.1- s 14- 4 10- 31415-1 19-1015 21- s 23- 0 2:- 4 27- 1y, 2- 81,5 ,3- 5’ s- 2 11-H11 7 10- 4 111- 21- s 21- 5 27- 11
'1 1- 314. 2- 7 :111 5- 2 r- 5 7-10 :- 1,1110 5 11. s 1.1- 11- 4 15- s ‘ 17- 119— 3 19- 0 2010 22- 23- 4 24— s 20- 1— 31/, a- 51.’ :- 21_ 0—11 3- s 10 5 12- 114 13-10 15-7 17— 4 19- 1 20-10 22- 01-; 24- 3 20— -_ 2- 7 5- 2 7-10 10-5 1:1- 1.; :4 1y '1 2010 2:1 1 20- 1o
0 I- 3 2- c. a- 9 a- r- 3 7- 0 a- 9 10 11- 3 12- 0 13- 9 15- 10- 3 17- 0 13— 9 20- 21- :1 22- 0 23- 9 25- 1- s 3- 4 5- 0- s s- 4 10- 11-11 13— 4 15- 10- s 13- 4 20- 21- 3 2.11- 4« 25- 2- 0 :- 0 7- 0 10- 1:.- 17- 0 20- 22- 0 25 o
I 1- 214 2- 5 :1- 715 4- 91,4 5- 7- 21,-; s- 5 9- 7 10- 91412- 1:1- 217114- 4% 15 7 11-10 11;- 1.5 10- :1 20- 5 21- 7yc 22-10 24-14 1- m :1- 2” 4- 91/. 0- 5 3- 1.1- 7 11- 21412—10 14- 5 10- 17- m 10- 2 20-10 22-5 21- 4- 01:, 7- 21.; 0-7—“11- 11. 115 0-10 113- :4 .11- 71/2 24- ,9 a
-1 11- 2 2- :11 :1- 514 4- 714 5- 91,3 (-1115 3-1 0- :1 10- 5 11- 7 12- 9 13-1‘1 1; 1410- 2 17- 4 115— 0 19- 3 20-10 22- 2:1- 2 1- 0y, 3:1 4-114 0- 2 7- 81/, 9-3 10- 9y_.12- 4 13-101415- 5 10111/112- 0 21» 1,5 21- 7 23- 11,4 2- 3% 4- 71/2 0111;. 0- 3 11- 7 1:211 1r.- 2 10 0 2010 2:1- 2 7
.‘ I 1- 114 2- :1 3- 414 4- 514 5 71,4 6- 814 7-10 0111,310- 1411- 2 12- :1 13- 5 14- 7 1:- 8 1c- 9 17-101919- 20-1 21- :1 22- 4 1- 0 :1- 4- 514 0-11.14, 7- 5 0-11 10 5 11-11 1:1- 4 15— 1s— 4 17-10 10- 4 20-10 22-1 2- :1 .1- 5% 0- 111,12 2111, 11- 2 1.1- :. 1:- 3 L17-101, 20- 114 .12. 41: 0
la 6. lo. 01 Men, Join: or 3400- requiud (or I Building. Spiced 10" Centen. '
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"i 692 500 390 235 220 175 140 90 60 45 , 2x 10 17 20 2:1 27 30 33 :17 40 4.1 17 ;11 0x 11 70 34 as 11.1 1:0 110 151 103 182 100 210

I. 770 535 300 300 237 130 125 as 110 2x12 20 21 2s 32 :10 40 11 1< 51; 1 1 leO 30 00 11.1 1.13 1.11 150 170 1122 208 224 240

.. I: 920 080 520 410 330 210 150 10s 35 2x14 20 2s .3’ 37 42 17 51 at. 01 -__ 1.; 70 8x 8 53 01 75 35 130 107 117 1.112 139 149 1.0

n 1075 825 650 525 340 240 175 1:10 ‘ 2x10 20 :12 37 43 13 52 511 04 09 7; .1 1 8x 10 07 so 93 107 1.10 m 117 100 173 137 2‘00

II 1230 975 790 500 350 200 200 371 0 15 13 21 21 27 .10 3.1 :10 11.1 1.1 4; 511.1 2.0 90 112 123 141 .00 171; 192 201; 224 240

I 1400 1130 ~ 720 500 300 1 27:. . 3x 8 20 24 2a 32 30 40 4-1 18 52 00 1,0“ 5.411 03 112 131 140 ms 157 20.7 224 24.1 201 230

i 1‘ 1‘10 250 175 150 110 90 €10 4.3 f , 3x10 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 00 05 70 73 111411) 83 1110 117 173 150 1137 15:1 200 217 233 250

'0 1100 6.50 500 400 .300 200 150 120 1.15 75 40 3x 12 :10 :10 42 4s 51 00 0; 72 7s 81 ~1 10.1.1 100 1.10 110 110 150 200 220 210 200 230 300

1. 10:0 800 640 450 300 250 .100 ' 150 100 1 . 3x14 55 42 49 50 0:1 711 77 31 1.11 05 1 '. 10111 117 110 10.} IS? 2111 2.13 257 2811) 30:1 327 350

II 15011 10:10 770 000 400 350 240 100 120 - _ 4x 4 13 10 19 21 21 27 20 1.1 , 3.3 .17 11 1.1;...» 1.10 111 11.9 10.1 211; 240 27.1 253 31.1 371-. 300

I: 11320 1350 1030 800 050 400 300 200 100 . _ 4x 0 20 21 23 :12 '10 «10. 41 1s 5.1 51: 1.1 1.1111 110 11.5 11.51 1.4 .15: 2.120 308 330 304 392 420

-, M 2150 1050 1300 1050 000 430 250 20) 4x 8 20 :12 a7 43 4s -—53 50 04 r.) 7; 1'1" '
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1w1ncli thick ......2 lbs
ill/1H ................ 21/2 “
25 “ “ ................ 3 “
1'11: “ “ ................ 4 “
Lbs. Lbs

Board ft Cubic ft
Apple ................ 4 1 49.
Ash \meiican white. .39 47.
Birch ................ 3.9 45.
Beech ................ 3.1 43.
Boxwood ............. '7 60.
Cedar. American . . . . .2.9 35.
Cedar. \V. Indian ..... 3.9 47.
Cedar. Lebanon .25 30.
Cherry ............... 3.5 42.
Chestnut ............. 3.4 41.
Cork ................. 1.3 15.
Lbs.

Cubic. ft.

Brick. pressed ................ 150
Brick. common ............... 125
Cement. Portland . .80 to 100

311, 2 gallons : 1 barrel.

2 barrels: 1 hogshcad.
1 barrel: 4/3 cubic feet
8.665 cubic inches: 1 gill

1 barrel pork: 200 pounds

.1 barrel fish: 200 pounds.

1 barrel flour: 196 pounds.

1 barrel Salt: 280 pounds.

1 barrel beef : 200 pounds.

1 bushel corn : 56 pounds.

1 bushel oats : 30 to 331/2 pounds.

24 sheets
20 sheets
‘25 sheets

: 1 quire.
: 1 quire outsides.
: 1 quire printers.
214 inches :1 nail.
4 inches : 1 hand.
3 inches :1 palm.
9 inches : 1 span.
12 inches = 1 foot.
45 inches : 1 ell.
3 feet : 1 yard.

.......................... 11.03

Spain

Holland ........................ 11.14
Sweden ........................ 11.14
America ........................ 12.
Russian ........................ 1,100
Italian ......................... 1.467
English ........................ 1,760
American ...................... 1.760
Scotch .......................... 1,984
144 square inches = 1 square foot.

9 square feet : 1 square yard.

272%. feet 2 1 square rod or pole.

40 rods : 1 square mod.

4 roods

160 rods = 1 acre.

4.840 yards

1728 cubic inches = 1 cubic foot.

27 cubic feet : 1 cubic yard.

1 cubic foot of water equals 62.5 pounds,
or 7.48 U. S. gallons.

1 cubic inch of water .036
pounds.

equals

foot.

Lath and plastering. two-coat work. weighs from 9 to

12 pounds per superficial foot.

Space occupied by water closets, 2
2 feet deep.

Urinals should be not less than2
partitions; partitions 6 feet high.

Horse Stalls—Width, 3 feet 10 inches to 4 feet, or over
Width should .not be be-
tween 4 and 5 feet, as in such cases the horse 1s liable to

5 feet in width and 9 feet long.

cast himself.

Diameter of a circle X 3.1416
Radius of a circle X 6.283185

Base of a triangle X 1/2 the altitude 2

feet ‘2 inches between

circumference.
circumference.
Square of the diameter of a circle X 07854 : area
Circumference of a circle X 0.159155 = radius.

Weight. per Square Foot of Sheet Lead

111 inch thick ................. 5 lbs. 5A12 inch thick ................ 10 lbs
1/12 “ ................. 6 “ 3/16 “ “ ................ 12 “
1/10 “ “ ................. 7 ” 1762 “ “ ................ 14 "
1’s “ " ................. 8 “ 1/1 “ “ ................ 16 “
Weight of Materials Dry Woods
bs. Lbs. Lbs. Lbs.
. Board ft. Cubic ft. Board ft. Cubic ft
E1111 .................. 2.9 35. Maple, soft ............. 3.5 42.
Ebonx ................ 6.3 76.1 Oak, live ................ 4.9 59.3
Hemlock ............. 2.1 25 ak, red ................ 3.9 45.
Hickory .............. 4.4 53 Oak, white .............. 4.3 52.
Hornbtam ............ 2.9 47. Pine, Southern .......... 3.7 45
Iron \Yood . . . . . . . . . . .6. 71. Pine. \\ hite .............. 2.1 2'.
Larch ................ 3. 35. Pine, yellow ............. 2.8 34.3
Lignuin ritze .......... 6.9 83. Spiuce .................. 2.1 5.
Mahogany. Honduras. .29 35. Sycamore ............... 3.1 37.
Mahogany. Spanish ...4.4 53. Walnut ................... 3.2 38.
Maple ................ 4 1 49.
Building Materials
Lbs. Lbs.
Cubic tt. Cubic ft.
Cement. Rosedale ............. 56 Common brickwork. lime mortar.. 120
Common brickwork. cement Concrete Cement ................. 140
mortar ...................... 1330 Earth dry. shaken ............ 82 to 92
Liquid Measure
4 gills : 1 pint : 33.6 c. inches. 1 gallon U. S. : 8.34 lb.
‘2 pints : 1 quart : 67.; ’ c. inches. 1 gallon U. S. : 231 cubic inches.
4 quarts : 1 gallon : 2688 c. inches. 1 cubic foot : 7.48 U. S. gallons.
Dry Measure
1 bushel wheat : 60 pounds. 1 cubic foot corn : 42 pounds.
1 bushel potatoes : 60 pounds. 1 cubic foot rice : 48 pounds.
2 gallons : 1 peck. 1 cubic foot hops : 27 pounds.
8 gallons : 1 bushel. 1 carload :: 680 bushels.
64 gallons : 1 quarter. 1 c. foot Anthr. coal : 54 lbs.
1 bushel : 1.28 cubic feet. 1 ton Anthr. coal : abt. 40 cu. ft.
Paper
20 quires : 1 ream. 10 reams : 1 bale.
211/2 quires : 1 ream printers. 60 skins : 1 roll of parchment.
2 reams : 1 bundle.
Weights and Measure—Lineal Measure ,
6 feet : 1 fathom. 100 links or 66 ft. : 1 chain.
16% feet or 5% yards : 1 rod, pole, 10 chains : l furlong.
or perch. 80 chains : 1 mile.
4 poles or 22 yards : 1 chain. 3 miles _ 1 league.
220 yards or 40 poles : 1 furlong. 240 yards : 1 cable length.
1760 yards or 8 furlongs : 1 mile. 6086.07 feet : 1 knot or sea mile.
7.92 inches : 1 link.
Length of a Foot in Different Countries
England ........................ 12. Austria ......................... 12.45
Denmark ....................... 12.35 Portugal ........................ 12.96
Prussia ........................ 12.36 Russia .......................... 13.75
Length of a Mile in Different Countries
Irish ............................ 2,200 Swedish and Danish ............. 7,233
Polish ......................... 4 400 Hungarian ...................... 8,630
Spanish ........................ 5,028 Nor“ egian ..................... 12,400
German ........................ 5.866 French league .................... 3,666
Square Measure
43,560 feet I __ 1 30 square acres : 1 yard of land.
10 square chains 5 ’“ acre. 100 acres : 1 hide of land.
640 acres : 1 square mile. 40 hides : 1 barony.
2.471 acres : 1 hectare. 36 sq. miles : 1 township.
6150 square yards : 1 scotch acre. 640 acres : 1 section.
7840 square yards : 1 Irish acre. About 14 25x125 ft. lots : 1 acre.

Solid or Cubic Measure

40 cubic feet of rough or 50 cubic feet
of hewn timber : 1 ton or load.
108 cubic feet : 1 stack of wood.

Water
1 cubic foot of water equals 7.48 U. S.
gallons.
1 cylindrical foot of water equals 49.1
pounds or 5.89 U S. gallons.

Miscellaneous and Useful Information
Roof boards weigh about three pounds per superficial

128 cubic feet 2 1 cord of wood.
40 c. ft. : 1 U. S. A. shipping ton.
42 c. ft. : 1 British shipping ton.

1 U. S. gallon of yater equals 8.34
pounds.

1 U. S. gallon of water equals 231 cubic
inches.

Pitch of Tin, Copper or Tar and Gravel Roof—Three—

eights of an inch to the foot and upward.

A bricklayers 110d measuring one foot four inches by

nine inches e uals 1296 cubic inches in ca acit , and con-
(1 ,

feet 6 inches wide,

tains twenty bricks

A single load of sand or other materials equals a cubic

yard.

Handy Table

an elipse.

area.

Multiplying both diameters and

Surface of a sphere X1
Circumference of a sphere X its diameter: surface.
Square of the diameter of a sphere X 3.1416 : surface.

One hundred yards of plastering will require fourteen
hundred laths four and a half bushels of lime, four— fifths
of a load of sand nine pounds of hair and five pounds of
nails, for two— coat work.

.7854 together = area of

/6 of its diameter = solidity.

Cube of the diameter of a sphere X 0.5236 : solidity.

SOME TERMS USED_ IN CARPENTRY

BAY WINDOW Any window projecting outward from the wall of a building,
either square or polygonal in shape, and commencing from the ground.

ORIEL WINDOW—The same as a bay window, only that an oriel window is
built on projecting brackets or corbels instead of starting from the ground.

BEARING WALL OR PARTITION—A wall which supports the floors and roof
in a building.

BASEMENT#The part of a building below the first floor.

BATTEN—Small strips of boards put over the joints of larger boards to keep
out the weather. *

BATTEN DOOR#A door made of flooring or other boards fastened to cleats or
cross strips.

BACK OF A WINDOW—Between the bottom of the sash and the floor.

BALCONY—5A projection from the face of a wall, supported by columns or
consols. generally surrounded by balusters.

ATTIC—A low story at the top of a building under the roof, generally has a few
outside windows for ventilation.

AREA—The superficial contents of any figure. An open space or court within
a building. Also an uncovered wall space around a basement window to give light
to the basement.

ARCADE—A range of arches. supported either on columns or on piers.

ARCH—A structural member rounded vertically to span an opening. Generally
speaking. arches are curved. Mechanically. an arch may be considered as any piece
or pieces arranged over an opening in a wedge-shape. the top and bottom being flat.

APRON#The finish below a stool of a window.

ALCOVE~A large recess in a room, generally separated by an arch.

ABUTTMENT—That part of a pier from which the arch springs.

BRACE—«An inclined piece of timber. used to stiffen the frame work of buildings.

BRACKET—A projecting ornament carrying a cornice.

BRIDGING Pieces cut between joist and studding to stiffen them.
generally have cross bridging.

BUTT JOINT—“'liere the ends of two timbers butt together.

CAPITAL—The upper part of a column. etc. .

CASEMENT—A glass frame which is made to open by turning on hinges at its side.

CHAMBER—“'hen the edge or corner of any work is cut off at an angle of 45
degrees.

COFFER—A deep channel in a ceiling. -

COLLAR BEAM—A beam spiked to the rafters to stiffen them.

COLONNADE—A row of columns.

COLUMN*A round pillar. The base is the part on which it rests, the top part
is called the capital and the center the shaft.

CORNICE—A projection at the top of a wall.

CORRIDOR—A long gallery or passage.

COUNTERSINK—To make a cavity for the reception of bolt or screw heads, so
that they will not project beyond the face of the work.

COURT—~An open place in the center of a building or back of a building.

COVE CEILING—A ceiling springing from the walls with a curve.

LATTICE—Any work of wood or metal, made by crossing each other forming a
net work.

 

 

Floor joists

CUPOLA#A small room on the top of a roof. ‘

DORMER WINDOW—A window in a room in the roof and projects from it with a
valley on each side.

DOVETAILING—Fastening boards together by letting one piece into another
in the form of an extended dovetail.

DOWEL—A pin let into pieces where they join.

DRAWING ROOM——A room appropriated for the reception of company.

EAVES—The lower part of the shingles hanging over the wall to throw the
water off. , .

FASCIA A flat board generally nailed to the ends of the lookout or rafter.

FLASHINGv—Pieces of metal let into the joints of a wall so as to lap over other
pieces. around chimneys or any rising part to prevent leakage.

FLUTE—«A concave channel. .

FRAMING—The rough timber work of a house.

FRIEZE—A board nailed on just below the projection for the cornice; a bed
mould is generally put in an angle to cover a joint, as between the frieze and planceer.

FURRING—«Flat pieces of boards used to bring .an irregular surface to an even
surface. Furring strips are also nailed on brick walls to protect the plastering inside.

GABLEfthen the ends of a building are carried straight up to the peak of
the rafters.

GAIN—A groove in a member to receive the end of another.

GIRDER——‘A large timber or iron beam. used to support joist or a wall overhead.

GROUNDS-Pieces of wood nailed to the studding or brick work to nail the base
to; they are also nailed around openings to stop off the plastering. The plastering
will be even with the outside of the grounds.

GUTTER’A channel for carrying off rain water.

HANGING STILE Is that part to which the hinges are fixed.

HEADERS—\V'lien framing openings around stairs, etc., headers are framed in to
carry the short joist.

HIP ROOF—A roof which starts from all four sides.

JACK RAFTER—A short rafter from a hip to a valley, or from the plate to a hip.

LINTEL—The horizontal piece of timber or iron over an opening to carry the
weight of the wall above it.

LOGGIA~—An outside gallery above the ground within the building.

MULLION The perpendicular piece between the two windows.

PEDESTAL—~The square support of a column. ~

PLANCEER—That part of a cornice which projects out from the building.

PLINTH'The square block at the base of a column.

REVEALflThe part between the front of a wall and the frame.

RIDGEflThe top of a roof.

SCRIBING——l“itting woodwork to an irregular surface.

SHED ROOF—A roof where all rafters slant one way.

SHORE—To put in temporary timbers to support a building while it is being
repaired.

SOFFIT—The lower horizontal face of anything.

WEATHER BOARDS—Outside siding boards that lap over each other.

WAINSCOTfiEither wood, plastering, paper or metal to line the side walls of
halls, dining room and kitchen of buildings a certain height.

VESTIBULE—An ante-hall built at the entrance of buildings to protect the room
from having cold air coming direct to the room.

 

 

 

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F IGURINGiLABOR AND MATERIAL FOR A BUILDING

EXCAVATINGz—W'e will commence by figuring the excavating. The basement
plan shows that one side of the building is 35’6” from a to i, the front of the building
27’ and the rear part 21’, the angle h-g-f being 6’ each way. Take 6’, the distance
from h to g. away from 35’6” and you have 29’6” left; by multiplying 29’6” by the
width of the front of the building you will have 27 x29’6”and will leave 6’ wide by 21’,
the width of the rear of the building and the projection for the bay window. The
corners of the bay are figured in as being square, 2’X14’; 29% times 27 equals 796. 5,
21 times 6 equals 126, 2 times 14 equals 28. Add 796. 5 plus 126 plus 28 equals 950.5
square feet. You will notice at the front elevation a section showing the height of
the ceilings and thickness of the walls. The height of the basement is marked 7’6”,
allow 6” for‘the concrete floor, it will then be 8’0” from the top of the foundation wall
to the bottom of the excavating. The top of the wall shows 2 feet above the grade,
which will leave 6’0” for the excavating. Multiply the number of square feet, which
we find is 950.5, by 6’0” and we have 5703 cubic feet; divide this by 27, the number
of cubic feet in a cubic yard, and you will have 211.2 cubic yards. The footings for
the porch piers and steps. according to specifications, are 4’6” below grade and the
size as shown on plans and are generally figured at so much per lineal foot in depth.
The rear porch piers are 12” square and are worth 5 cents per lineal foot in depth.
Footing for the rear step is 12” wide, 6’ long and 4’6” deep and will make one cubic
yard of earth. The front piers are 16” square, four of them, and 4%} deep and are
worth the same as for the rear piers. The footings for the front steps are two trenches
3’ long and one 8’. making 14’ in all, 12” wide and 4’6” deep, making 2% cubic yards
of excavating. The footings for the brick wall in the basement are 30 feet long, 16”
wide and 8” deep and makes one cubic yard of earth. The chimney footing and the
footing for the post will nearly make another cubic yard. Add together all of the
cubic yards of earth and multiply them by the cost per cubic yard and you will have
the cost of excavating. The grading and leveling of the yard is generally done under
separate contract and is very often done by the day, but is sometimes figured at 4
cents per superficial yard. “'alls are sometimes figured at a certain price per cubic
foot and in such a case it will not be necessary to reduce it to cubic yards. If the most
of the ground can be scraped out of the basement the work can be done for less money,
sometimes as low as 15 cents per cubic yard.

STONE WORK :—Take the outside measurements oflthe building when figuring
stone work. Commence at a. from a to b is 27’, b to c 15’6”, the slant of the bay
window is 4’ and the front 7’. making 15’ in all around the outside of the bay, 15’6”
and 15’ make 30’6” in all for this side. The distance from f to g and from g to h is 6’
each, from h to i 21’ and from i to a 35’6”. making a total of 126’ in all. As stated
before, the height of the basement wall is 8’0”; multiply 126 by 8", equals 1008 cubic
feet; the wall being 18” thick you will take one and one-half times 1008, which equals
1512 cubic feet, divide this by 16.5, the number of cubic feet in a perch and we have
91.6 perch or practically 92 perch. We find by the figures given above that there
are 126 lineal feet of stone wall. Referring to Table No. 10, page 48.

You will notice in the table that 129 is not given, we will then take 100 and find
the number of cubic yards which is 48.4. 29 is not given, but 28 and 30, take the

57

difference between 28 and 30 which we find is .8 perch, then 29 will be half the dif-
ference or .4 perch. You will notice that 28 feet long and 8 feet deep is marked 13. 6
perch, add .4 to this and you have 14 perch. l4 perch plus 48.4 perch equals 62.4
perch, the wall being 1.5 feet thick; take 1%; times 62.4, which equals 93.6, the
number of perch, which is the same as given above.

CONCRETE FOOTINGz—In the rear there are three of them 12” square and 4’6”
deep, making 13.5 cubic feet; the step footing is 6’x1’x4’6”, or 27 cubic feet; four
of the footings in front are 16”X16”x4. 5’ or 8 cubic feet to each one, making 32 cubic
feet. Footings for the steps are 3’ on each side and 8’ between, making 14’x4.5, or
63 cubic feet, making in all 13.5, 32, 27 and 63, a total of 135.5 cubic feet. In the
basement we have footings for the brick wall 8”x16”, making about 1 cubic foot of
concrete to each foot of wall. There are 30’0” of brick wall making 30 cubic feet, of
footing. The chimney footing is 2’6”X3’0” and 12” deep, making 7.5 cubic feet.
The footing for the post is 2’x2’x1’ or 4 cubic feet. We have in the basement 30 plus
7. 5 plus 4, making a total of 41.5 cubic yards of concrete; add this to 135.5 for the
outside and we have 177 cubic feet of concrete work. We will now figure the cement
floor which is generally figured at so much per square foot, according to the thickness
of the concrete. The outside walls being 18” thick, then both ends of the building
would make three feet, the inside of the basement will be 3’ smaller than the outside
measurements. The basement floor will then be 24’ in front; 'by leaving off the 6’
in the rear, we have 35’6” less 9’ or 26’6”x24”, the width in front, making 636 square
feet. The rear part will be 6’x18’, making 108 square feet and the bay window 2’x14’
or 28 square feet. The brick wall is not figured out. 636 plus 108 plus 28 equals
772 square feet in all.

FIRST STORY PLANS

BRICK WORK :—The brick walls in the basement are 9” walls, 8’6” high to the
top of the floor joists and 30’ in length. 8. 5 times 30 equals 25.5 square feet. For a
9” wall it takes 15 brick to the square foot or superficial foot, which will take 15 times
25.5, or 3825 brick. Using the Table No. 8 given on page 49, a wall 30’ long and 8’
high requires 1800 brick, and a wall 30’ long and 9’ high requires 2025 brick, a difference
of 225 bricks, or 225 for one foot; then 6” will take half of 225 or 113 bricks, add this
to 1800 and you have 1913 brick for 4” wall 8’6” high and 30’ long. Take two times
1913, which is 3826 for an 8” wall. According to the measurements given on the
sectional View, the first story between joists is 9’2” and the first floor joists are 10”,
making 10’0” from the foundation wall to the bottom of the second floor joists; this
wall is 12” thick. The actual measurement around the building is 126 feet, this is
not figuring the corners of the bay window square, but actual measurement. 126’
times 10’, the height of the wall, equals 1260 square feet. The wall being 1’ thick
and 22% bricks to a cubic foot, it will take 22% times 1260 or 28350 bricks. To work
this according to Table No. 8, page 49, a wall 100’ long, 10’ high, 4” thick, requires
7500 bricks and a wall 26’ long and 10’ high requires 1950 bricks, making a total of
9450 brick for a 4” wall; a 12” wall will take three times 9450 or 28350 bricks. If
the outside or face brick is to be a pressed brick, it will require 9450 brick for this one
layer. The second story is a 9” wall, 8’8” between joists, the second floor joists are 10”,
the attic joists 6”, and according to the measurements on the plan, 2’ of brick wall

 

 

 

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above the floor joist, making 12’ in all for a 0” wall. As you will notice the second
story is not as long as the first story. the rear part being carried by two I-beams over
the kitchen and pantry as shown by the dotted lines. The distance around the
second story is 27 plus 29’6” plus 27’ plus 15 plus 15’6”. making a total of 11—1’ and 12’
high. According to Table No. 8. page 49. it requires 10260 bricks for a 4” wall. a 9”
wall will take two times 10260 or 20520 bricks. It will then require 28350 plus 20520
brick. or 48870 bricks in all. If face brick are used, it will take 9—150 plus 10260 or
19710 face brick. If you will measure the top part of the wall, which is under the
eaves of the roof and covered with a cornice. we find it measures 3’ high. These
bricks can be common brick as they are all covered. Deduct three times 111’ of face
brick wall 1" thick from the face brick. or 2065 bricks. leaving a balance of 17645
face brick. The figures given are generally the way that brick work is figured, but,
when expensive bricks are bought for face brick. the contractor should find the number
of square feet contained in all of the window and door openings and deduct from the
figures obtained from figuring wall measure. “'e will now figure the brick for the
chimney. which has a tile lining of 8”X12”. Find the height of the chimney by taking
the measurements given on the sectional plan. the height of the basement and ceilings,
width of joist and the height of the roof; these measurements are generally taken by
sealing the drawing according to the scale given on the drawing. W'e find the chimney
to be 46’ feet high. The tiling is (”’x12”. And to put a 4” wall around the outside,
the chimney will be 16”x20”. By only figuring the corners once the outside measure—
ment will be two times 16” and two times 12”. making 56” of brick work; allow 4”
for waste and you will have 60”. or 5’. of brick work by 46’ in length, which, according
to Table No. 8, requires 1725 brick. The tiling generally commences in the basement
about. 2’ below the first floor joist. It would then take 6’ less of tiling than
brick work. or «10’. Chimneys are generally figured by the lineal foot, having the
tiling thimbles and ash doors figured in. We will next figure the brick piers shown
on the basement plan; the height can be scaled on the elevations, three piers in the
rear are 12” square and 2’8” high, three times 2’8” equals 8’0”, the height of the three
piers; there are 22% bricks in a cubic foot of brick work, then eight times 22%; or 180
brick. In front we have three brick columns and one brick newel. By scaling the
plans we find the full length of the columns to be 10’0” and the height of the newel
5’0”. making 35’0” in all. The piers are 16” square. A 16” wall will take 30 brick
to the square foot of wall surface, 16” equals 11/3 square feet, 1% times 30 equals 40,
the number of bricks required per foot for a 16” pier. By taking the actual brick
and laying them on the ground you will notice that a 16” pier takes 8 bricks to each
layer. six of them will require to be face brick and two for filling in. It will then
take 30 face and 10 common brick for each foot in height. 35 times 30 equals 1050
pressed and 35 times 10 equals 350 common bricks. The brick work at the ends of
the steps is 12” wide, 4’0” long and 2’ high, making a wall 4’(”x-l’( ”, or 16 cubic feet.
221/_; times 16 equals 360 bricks, one-third of them common, or 120 common and 240,
pressed. There are two gables, one over the bay window, which is 14’ wide. The
one in front is the same width, which is found by measuring the plans. The roof is
half pitch or a rise of 7’. According to Fig. 16, page 21, to find the area of a gable
multiply the height by half of the width of the building. If the gable is 14’ wide and
the rise is 7 feet. then the area will be 7 times 7 or 40 square feet; the two gables will
be two times 49 or 98 square feet. For an 8” wall it will require 15 times 98 or 1470

59

bricks, one-half of them pressed, or 735 pressed and 735 common. By adding together
all of the pressed brick and the common brick separately you can figure the cost of
the brick work by multiplying it by the price per thousand. The brick work over
the angles of the bay window is carried by an 8” channel with a 4”x5” angle bolted
to it for the brick work to rest on. .

CUT STONEzaThere are no stone sills called for in the basement except for the
grade door. According to the specifications the door sills are to be 6” thick, 2”
wider than the wall and 8” longer than the width of the door frame. The window
sill 5” thick, 7” wide and 8” longer than the width of the window frame. The grade
door is called for a 2’10” door, the woodwork on each side of the frame is 2”, making
4” in all; then you have 2’10” plus 4” plus 8” for the projection in the brick work,
making 3’10” in all for the length of the sill. The wall being 12” thick, will require
a 1-1” wide sill. .

SILLS FOR THE FIRST FLOOR :—The rear door is 2’10”, making a sill the same
as for the grade door. The front door being 3’6” wide, add 12” to the width of the
door, which will make the sill «1’6” long 6”x1~1”. Sills for the window frames are to
be as described. 8” wider than the frame. which will make the sill 16” longer than the
width of the glass. A glass ~12” wide will require a sill 42” plus 16” or 58”, 5”x7”.
The first number given always gives the width of the glass. On the first floor there
are two windows with 32” glass, two with 30”, one with 28”, two 16”, two ~12” and
one 60”. On the second floor three 12, two 16”, three 30” and one 32”. In the
attic there are two mullion or double windows with glass 20” wide each. For a
mullion frame 6” should be added for the mullion, which will make the sills 20” plus 20”
plus 16” plus 6”. making 62” in all. You will then have one door sill l’6”x1—l”x6”.
two door sills 3’10”x1~l”x6”, one window sill 6’4”, five 1’10”, five 3’10”, three 4’0”.
one 3’8”, four 32” and two 5’2”; all the window sills will be 7”x5”. The stone caps
for the walls at the ends of the steps will be according to the specifications, 15” wide
and 1” thick and 1’2” long. The brick under the stone cap will be set out to form a
mould as shown' stone caps for the porch columns and newel posts are to be 3” larger
than the piers, making them 20”x20”x4”. Chimney caps will be 3” larger than the
brick work making the cap 20”X24”.

FLOOR JOISTS:——The first floor joists and girders under the floor are generally
figured from the basement plan. The plan is marked four 2”x10” timbers for the
girder. The length of the girder can be had by sealing the plans, but according to
the measurements given the girder is 18’ long, which requires four 2”x10”x18’ and
an 8”x8”x8’ post. The joists will lie from the girder to the wall, which is 10’9” from
the center of the girder to the outside of the wall and will take a 10’ joist. The outside
brick wall being 12” thick. The length of the wall is 35’6”. Allowing 2’ for the brick
walls, we have 33’6”. Spacing the joists 16” centers, according to Table No. 6. page
53, a building 34’ long requires 26 spaces 16” centers; always add one to the number
of actual spaces for the starting point, which will require 27 joists 10’ long for this
side of the building. It will require two headers 12’ long for the well hole of the stairs.
The ends of the joists that are cut off for the stairs can be used in the building to good
advantage, although some contractors figure out the actual length of the joist. The
joists are generally doubled under partitions which would require two more joists for
this side of the building. For the opposite side 16’ joists will be required from the
front back to the first brick partition or for 15’6”, which requires 13 joists and for

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the bay window it Will require 18’ joists for 14’, or 12 joists; from the bay
window to the rear it will require five 10’ joists, making in all for the first floor
joists 37 2”x10”x10’, 13 2"x10”x16’ and 12 2”x10”x18’.

SECOND FLOOR JOISTS:—-The joists for the second floor are practically the
same as for the first floor joists, as will be seen by the partitions on the first floor.
Second floor joists are taken from the first floor plan and the attic or third floor from
the second floor plan.

ATTIC JOISTS:—The attic floor joists will be of a different length as will be seen
by the partitions on the second floor. The partition for the chamber No. 2 you will
notice is 11’9” from the outside of the wall to the center of the partition, which will
require a 12’ joist to the bay window and a 14’ for over the bay. The other side is
13’3" to the center of the closet partition and 2’ across the closets, making 15’3”,
which will require 16’ length joists. We will figure joists for the whole length of the
building. You will notice that the second floor is only 29’6” long, being cut off even
with the angle at f—g. The dotted lines as shown at i on the first story plans represent
an I—beam to hold the brick work over the kitchen and pantry as shown on the second
story plan. The porch roof extends back over this part of the kitchen and pantry as
shown on the second story plan. It takes 23 joists 16” centers for 29’6”, to this add
one. making 24 2”x6”x16’ for one side and from the front to the bay it will take 13
2”x6”x12’ and 12 2”x6”x14’ over the bay window.

PARTITION STUDS:——\Vhen figuring inside partition studding it is safe to
figure one stud for each foot to allow for doubling the openings and corners. On
the first story you have one partition the full length of the building less the outside
walls, making the wall 33’6” long. By scaling the plans the partition between the
dining room and parlor is 22’ long, the one round the closet is 4’ and 10’6”, the one
between the pantry and dining room is 9’, making 57 feet in all. It will then require
54 studs 9’ long for the partition or half of 54 which is 27, 2”x4”x18’.

PLATES FOR PARTITIONS:flAs stated above there were 54 lineal feet of par-
titions and there generally are three plates, one at the bottom and two at the top of
the partitions, which will take three times 57 or 171 feet of plates. Eleven 16’ pieces
will measure 176’: it will then require eleven 2”x4”x16’ for the first story plates.

SECOND STORY PARTITIONS :—The partitions on the second story can be figured
in the same way as for the first story. You will notice by the cross sections that
there is a 2”X8” plate on top of the brick wall, the wall is 114’ long around the building,
less 28’ for the gables leaving 86’ of wall plates which will require five 2”x8”x14’ and
one 16’ for the top plates.

RAFTERSz—The roof is half pitch and, according to Table No. 1, page 53, a
building 27’ wide requires a rafter 19’1” long for a half pitch roof. The projection
of the cornice is 12”, which will add 17” more to the rafter, making it 20’6” long.
It will require a 22’ timber then for the long rafters. Referring to the roof plan you
will notice that it will only require a few rafters of this length—one, in front, one in the
rear and three on each side of the center ridge, making eight in all of this length.
To find the number of feet required for the rafters, figure the roof as if it were a gable
roof. This roof is 29’6” long and rafters spaced 24” centers will require 16 rafters on
each side or 32 in all, each rafter being 22’ long; take 32 times 22 ,which is 704 lineal
feet of rafters. You can then divide 704 into any number of pieces, say eight 22’
long, eight 20’ long, eight 18’ long and the balance 16’, which will be 14 pieces 16’ long.

61

 

 

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No. 26

 

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LEFT SIDE ELEVATION.

64

HIP AND VALLEY RAFTERS:——According to the table the long hips Will be
234%” long, allowing 2’ for the projection, you have a timber 234%”, or practically
26’ long. To figure the length of the short hip from the front gable. The gable is 14’
wide, half of 14 is 7, take 7 from half the width of the building and you have (5’6” left
to the center of the building, which would make a building two times 6’6” or 13’ wide.
According to the table a building 13’ wide, will require a hip 11’3” long or practically
12' long. The valleys for both of the gables will be for a 1—1’ building and will require
twelve timbers, allowing for the projection it will take 14’ timbers for the valleys.

COLLAR BEAMS :—The main roof should have at least six collar beams each way;
if placed half way up the rafters. they would be 14 and 18’ in length.

RAFTERS AND CEILING JOISTS FOR THE REAR PORCH ROOF :—The porch
is 5’ wide and the pantry 6’, making 11’ x21’ , the second story joists make the ceiling
joists for the pantry and rear 0 the kitchen. We will then require ceiling joists for
the rear porch, which is 5’ wide, by using 6’ joists we will have 1’ projection which will
serve for lookouts to nail the cornice to. The porch is 21’ long and spacing the rafters
24" centers, it will require twelve pieces 6’ long or six 12’ long. The rafters for the
rear porch, which is 11I wide and half pitch, will require a timber 15’6” long. The
rafter sets on top of the lookouts so that a 16’ rafter will be sufficient. Figure the roof
as if it were a shed roof, it will take twelve pieces of timber 16’ long for these rafters.
Figure for a plate on the top of the ceiling joist and it will take 36 lineal feet or three
12’ pieces. Floor joists for the rear porch will be 12’ long by putting a girder in the
center and it will take ten 2”x8”x1‘2’ for joists, and three 2”x8”x10’ for headers.

FRONT PORCH FLOOR JOISTS:—As shown on the basement plan, the porch
is 10I wide and 23’6” long with one center pier. The joists for the porch floor must
run with the building so that the floor can be laid at right angles to the building.
It will take eight joists 12’ long by putting them 16”centers and to double the outside
one, it will take nine for each side or eighteen 12’ joists; then two 10’ pieces at
each end and three in the center for a girder will make seven 10’ joists for the headers.
The ceiling joists are 24” centers and will require thirteen ceiling joists. The porch
being 10’ wide, it will require 12’ timbers for the ceiling joists, which will also answer
for the lookouts for the cornice. The cornice is only 12” wide, then a 12’ timber will
be long enough for the rafters, and will require thirteen pieces 12’ long. The hips
will require timbers 18’ long.

PORCH FRIEZEz—The timbers required inside of the porch frieze will be four
pieces 2”x12”x12’ long and four pieces 2”x12”x10’. The rear porch frieze will be
a box and not require any timbers. ‘

STAIR HORSES :—From the first to the second story will require six 2”x12”x10’.
From the second floor to the attic three 2”x12”x16’ and the basement stairs will
require three 2”x1‘2”x16’. Joists for the four stair platforms 3’6”x3’o"’ will require
six 2”x8” timbers 14’ long. It is always well to add a few 2x4s for extra work that
can not be seen and twenty pieces 12’ long for this building will not be much. All
the dimension lumber is now figured and we will figure the roof sheathing for wood
shingles. If slate were to be used then it will be required to figure the roof sheathing
solid and matched lumber is then generally used.

ROOF SHEATHINGz—Referring to the length of the rafter for the main building
we find it is 20’0”, including the projection for the cornice. The projection at the

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ends are 1’ at each end, making the roof 31’6” by two times the length of the rafter
or 41’. 31.5 times 41 equals 1291.5 feet. The roof sheathing can be laid 2%” apart,
for which you can deduct one»sixth or about 200’, leaving 1091.5’ for roof sheathing.
The roof for the rear porch is figured the same way, which will be 16 times 23’. The
roof for the front porch will be tinned and we will figure 6” matched flooring. The
roof being 12’X29’ or 318 square feet; to this add one—fourth for waste, which will
make 435’ of 6” flooring for the front porch roof.

ROUGH FLOORS z—For rough floors multiply the width of the building by the
length and add one—sixth for waste.

ATTIC FLOOR :fiAttic floor is generally of matched lumber.
and to this add one-fifth for waste. ‘

FINISHED FLOORS2—The parlor, dining room, reception hall and closet will
have oak flooring ,7/3”X2”. The parlor and dining room will take 16 times 29’ or
464’; the reception hall and closet are 10’x20’ or 200 square feet: the stair platform
4’x4’ or 16 square feet, making in all 680’; add to this one—half of the number of square
feet and it will require 1020 square feet of flooring. The kitchen and pantry will
have a %”x—l” yellow pine floor. The kitchen is 15X10’ and the pantry 6’x10’, making
210’ in all; to this add one—third for waste, making 280’ of flooring. The platform
of the cellar stairs will also have yellow pine floors. which is —l’x1’ or 16 square feet,
add one—third will make 21 square feet.

SECOND STORY FLOOR :—The floor for the second story is of §//é”x2”. The
floor space is the same as for the attic floor, 27 times 29’; to this add one—half for
waste. 9'5?” flooring is figured the same as if it were ,z/g" thick, but costs less than Zvé”
flooring. .

PORCH FLOORS z~The front porch is 10’x23’6” and the rear 5’x2l’, making 340’
in all; to this add one—third for waste, making 454 feet of 1”x%” flooring.

SHINGLES:——Main roof the rafters are 20’6” for one side, both sides will make
41’. The length of the roof is 31’6”; then 31.5 times 11 will equal the area of roof to
be covered, which is 1291.5 square feet. Shingles laid 1%” to the weather, it requires
900 shingles to the square of 100’, then 1291.5 square feet will require 11625 shingles.
The rear porch roof, as stated before, is 23’x16’, or 368 square feet and will require
3312 shingles, making 141937 or 15000 shingles. The cornice across the two gables

will also be covered with shingles and will require about 500 shingles.

EXTERIOR TRIM—MAIN CORNICEz—The planceer is 12” wide, the distance
around the building is 114’, to this add 2’ for each corner or 12’, making 126 lineal feet
of planceer, add the same amount for frieze, which is also 12” wide? The fascia will
take the same amount of lineal feet, but only 6” wide. The rear porch will require
24’ and 24’ or 18 lineal feet of planceer and the same for fascia and frieze. The
cornice being box will also require an inside frieze the same width as for the outside,
which is 12” wide and a 6” board for the soffit between the inside and the outside
frieze. The cornice for the front porch is the same width as for the rear porch and
is 27’ in front and 11’ on each side, making 51’ in all. The frieze is also double and
will have a 12” soffit. Base boards for under the porch floor are 8” wide and the
length and width of the porches.

We have 27’x29’

66

. GABLES:—The gable ends can be scaled to get the length of the cornice. it
Will take 12’ length boards for the gables shown. The planceer will be 12” wide and
the frieze 8” wide. It will take four 12” boards, four 8” and four 6” for the two end
gables.

PORCH STEPS :—Steps to the front porch are according to plans and specifica—
tions, 6” high and 12” wide cut, making the treads 13%” wide and 7’ long. It will
require five boards 7’ long and 6” wide and four 7’ long, 13%” wide by 1%” thick
as specified. The steps for the rear porch being five risers and four treads. The
steps are 5’6” wide. The treads being only 12” wide instead of 13%” as in front.
The horses have already been figured. The rear steps will require a side string, as
the steps are open. which will take a 12” board 12’ long for both sides.

FURRINGz—All outside or exposed brick walls,on the first and second story
will have 1”x2” furring strips spaced 16” centers. To find the number of strips
required take the measurement of the outside wall in inches on each floor and multiply
it by the height of the ceilings. On the first story the distance is 126 feet and the
ceiling 9’, making 1131 lineal feet. The second story is 111’ with an 8’8” ceiling,
making 922 lineal feet or 2056 lineal feet in all.

BRIDGINGz—For joist spaced 16” centers it takes bridging 17” long for 2”x10”
joists, for a 2”x12” joist 18%”, for a 2”x8” joist 16”. For double or cross bridging
it will then take twice that amount for each space of 16”. A good way to figure the
lineal feet of bridging is to take two and one—half times the length of the room that
is to have the bridging. Take the first story, one row of bridging the full length or
31’, through the hall and kitchen and two rows through the parlor and dining room
of 28’, each making 90 lineal feet. Two and one—half times 90 equals 225 lineal feet
for the first floor, of l”x.’%”. For the second floor take three times 28’ or 84’. 2%
times 81 equals 210 lineal feet.

GROUNDS :_Measure the distance around one of the openings and multiply this
by the number of openings that require grounds and you will have the required number
of feet. A door 2’8”X7’6” will take four times 7’6” and two times 3’, making 36’ in
all for one door opening. Grounds for the base and wainscot, take each room separate
and find the number of lineal feet required.

For wood partitions figure Z’§"X2U
strips and for brick walls %”x2” strips.

WINDOW FRAMES :—To make out a bill for window frames when figuring a
building is not done very frequently. as the frames are generally figured in with the
mill work at a certain price per frame complete, including the outside stops and sash.
Inside stops are generally figured with the inside mill work. To figure the amount
of material required for a window frame ~12”x31”, two lights as shown on the first
story plan. For the length of the pulley stiles take two times the length of the glass
and add 6” for the length of the sash, allow 3” for cutting, making in all 77” for the
length of the side jambs. For the outside of the box, the jambs next to the brick
will have to be about .‘"’ longer than for the inside ones, as they are nailed against
the ends of the sill and head of the frame. The inside and outside casing will be the
same length, or 80” long. It will require 14’ lumber for the sides of the frame. The
jambs from 1%” to 5%” wide and the casing from 1” to 1%” wide. Some use 6”
lumber for jambs, and sometimes they use 10” boards ripped in two. The heads

and sills will be the width of the glass and sash. A frame for a 42” glass will be 46”
wide inside, then the thickness of the jamb and the size of the weight pocket, which
is about 3%” in all on each side. Add 7” then to 46” and you have 53” or 4’5” in

length. For the brick mould it will take two times 78” and one time 53”, which is .

about 18’ for one frame. For the stops it will take the same as for the brick mould.
Window frames for frame buildings are made different and do not require as much
material as for a frame for a brick building. The head jamb is nailed between the
side jamb or pulley stiles, the side jambs must be long enough to allow for the sill
and head jamb. The sub-sill is generally of 2” lumber. The length of the lumber
can be figured according to the size of the glass, same as described.

DOOR FRAMES for brick require the side and head jambs, which are generally
of 2” lumber; a quarter round or brick mould is also required, but Sills are most
always of stone. Door frames for frame buildings require the jambs, which are
generally of pg" lumber, 5%” wide of a 2”x4” frame and 7%” for a 2”x6” frame.
Take the size of the door and allow for the cutting. Sills are generally 2” thick.

MOULDINGS:——\Vherever there is to be- any, moulding, as for bed moulding,
measure the actual number of feet required, then add one-twentieth for waste and
cutting. The gables generally have a crown or band mould but at the sides where the
hanging gutters are, the moulding is generally left off and the gutter takes its place
unless the gutter is on the roof. A band mould is the best for the gables, as it will
not require any return at the ends where it joins the gutter.

TIN AND GALVANIZED IRON WORK:;Flash where the roof joins the brick

wall with tin shingles where the wood shingles are laid. Measure the length of the
rafter and get a tin shingle for each row of shingles. The valleys are 14 feet long and
will require two valleys 20” wide and 14 feet long. The tin roof is laid at a certain
price per square. The porch being 29 feet long and 12 feet wide will take 348 square
feet of roofing tin.

GUTTERS:—It will take 136 feet of hanging gutter for the main building and 50
feet for the rear porch. the front porch gutter is on top of the roof and is figured in
with the tin work.

DOWN SPOUTS:——Figure a 3” down 'spout for the front porch which will be 11
feet long, one 4” down spout from the main'roof to the rear porch roof 10 feet long
and one 4”, the full height or 22 feet to connect to the cistern.

RIDGE ROLLS AND HIPS :—The two gables will require 10 feet each of roll,
the main roof will require 6 feet, the long hips for the main roof will require 26 feet
each, and the two shorter ones 14 feet each. The rear porch hips 21 feet each, making
a total of 142 feet of 3” ridge roll.

PLASTERINGz—Some plasterers take the inside measurements of the building as
a whole for the ceilings, then measure the partitions and side walls of each floor and
multiply it by the height of the ceiling. The first story on the inside is 33’6”x25’, or
8375 square feet. The outside walls measure 118 feet and the partitions measure 80
feet, double this so as to have both sides and you will have 278 feet of side wall 9 feet
high. A wall 9 feet high has one square yard to each foot in length, and there would
be 278 square yards in the side walls on the first floor. The second floor in the outside
walls there are 110 feet and by measuring the partitions we find there are 105 feet of

67

partitions, which will make 210 and 110 or 320 feet of wall space 8’8” high or 2772
square feet and a ceiling of 25’6”x28’, 714 square feet, add together the number of
square feet and divide it by 9 and you have the number of square yards. Some
contractors figure each room separate, then add them together. This is a very good
way when a very close figure is required. The table given on page 45 makes it very
easy when figuring plastering by taking each room separate. Take the bed room
No. 2 is 11 feet by 15 feet. A ceiling 11’x15’ has 18.3 square yards, the 11 foot side
10.3 square yards, by figuring the wall. 8’6” high the 15 foot side has 14.1, making
24.4 for the side walls of half the room, two times 24.4 equals 48.8, to this add the
ceiling 18.3 and you have 67.1 square yards for room No. 2. Plastering is figured
by the square yard.

WAINSCOT PLASTERING is figured by taking the height of the wainscot and
multiplying it by the length of the space to have the wainscot, reduce to yards.
Plastered beams are figured according to the size and kind of mould.

WINDOVJ TRIM z—lf sub—jambs are required find the number of feet for one
window and the width“ the height of the casing and width, the width, length and
thickness of the head casing, moulding for head casing, length, width and thickness
of window stools and aprons, inside stops.

INSIDE DOOR JAMBS:——You must take the size of the opening, the thickness of
the wall, as for a 2’8”x7’0”, it will require two side pieces 7’3” long and one head
piece 2’10” long, for a 2”X4” stud wall and plastered on both sides, the jambs will be
5%” wide and will require 6” lumber. Doors are figured always according to their
size, quality and kind of material.

BATTEN DOORS :A—You must figure the amount of material in the door. As a
door 3’XT’ will require 21 feet and, if flooring, add according to the width of the flooring.

BASE :flOne way to figure the base is to measure all the outside and partition
walls, then deduct for the openings, allowance must be made for cutting. The width
of the casing will make plenty of allowance if the carpenter is careful in cutting.
Another way is to figure each room separate, then add together the number of feet
obtained.

DOOR CASING:!Add two inches to the length of the door opening, the head
casing to be enough wider than the door to cover the side casing.

BASE MOULD:—After the base is figured it is very easy to get the number of
feet of base mould and quarter round by taking the same number of feet as there is
of base. Picture mould, if it comes above the window casings, will be figured full
measurement with one foot added for every 20 feet for cutting. If it comes below
the window heads you can deduct the width of the heads.

MOULDINGz—Kloulding for door and window casing, find the length required
and add one—tenth for cutting. Cove under treads on inside and outside.

STAIRS:—Basement stairs are 3 feet wide, 13 risers, 11 treads and 1 platform.
It will require an 8” board for a riser and a 10” for the tread. 13 risers of 8” each
will take 39 lineal feet of 8” boards, 11 treads will take 33 lineal feet of 10” boards.
a 4”x4” solid newel and 12 feet of 2”x4” railing. Stairs from the first to the second
floor are 3’6” wide, 16 risers, 14 treads and 1 platform. This is on open stairs (see

detail). and the treads will require return nosing at the ends. The risers are 71/2”
and will require an 8” board. The treads 10%” wide will take a 12” board, the
treads are seldom less than lj/é” thick. Figure cove for under the treads. It will
take two 12”x16’ boards for strings. There is one starting newel and two landing
newels. It will require 16 feet of railing and, to figure two balusters to each tread,
it will take 25 balusters. The stairs to the attic is a box stairs 3’6” wide, 14 risers.
It will require an 8” board for the riser and a 10” for the treads. Three 4”x4” posts
and 16 feet of 2”x4” for railing in the attic.

PORCH RAILING AND BALUSTERS:—The front porch will require 33 lineal
feet of each top and bottom railing and three balusters to each foot or 99 balusters 22”
long. The rear porch will require 25 feet of railing and 75 balusters. Four frames
for metal wire under the front porch and three for under the rear porch. The rear
porch columns are 6”x6” box.

BEADED CEILING FOR PORCHES:—320 feet for the front and 140 feet for
the rear.

PLATE RAIL :—The dining room will require 50 lineal feet of plate rail, (see
detail drawing). Below the plate rail are plastered panels with wood strips and
panel mould. These panels are about 11” in the clear and will extend all around the
dining room. Closet shelving, strips in closets for coat and hat hooks, drawers in
closet off from bed room No. 3. Pantry cupboards will be as detailed.

PAINTING, VARNISHING, FILLING AND STAINING :——Painting is generally
figured by the superficial yard. Figure window frames the size of the frame including
the glass, as the extra work of painting the jambs, stops and around the glass more
than makes up for the glass. A window ~12”x30”, two lights, will be 42”+4” for the
sash and 4” for the brick mould. making 50” or 4’2”, the height being two times 30”
plus 6” and 4” for sash and brick mould, making it 5’10” in height. 4’2” times 5’10”
will make about 24 square feet. The inside of the frames can be figured the same
way for varnishing. \Vhen figuring doors the jambs must also be figured besides the
size of the door.

OUTSIDE MEASUREMENTS :——In frame buildings the outside measurements
of the building are taken and no deductions made for openings. Inside base is figured
as being not less than 12” wide, stairs and floors the actual measurements. Balusters
and railing must be figured according to the work; by figuring the balusters as being
solid on each side you will get very close to the number of yards.

Quantity of Paint Required per 56 Sq. Yds., or 500 Sq. Ft. of Surface
On Woodwork. Inside Work.

Lead and Oil priming ...... 1V2 Gallons. Liquid Filler. . . . . . . . . . . . .11/4 Gallons.
Two Coat work ........... 2% Gallons. Paste Filler .............. 1V2 Gallons.
Three Coats .............. 3/4“ Gallons. Stain. ............. . . . . .1 Gallon.
On brick work add one-tenth .......... Varnish, etc., lst. coat.... . 11/2 Gallons.
Mineral on wood .......... 1 Gallon. Each other coat. . . . .each 1 Gallon.
Mineral on tin ............ 1 Gallon. Shellac. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Gallon.
Graphite ................. 1% Gallons. Calcimining .. . . . . . . . . . . . .31/2 Gallons.
Red Lead ................ 1 Gallon. Varnish Remover ........ 31/2 Gallons.

Putty, about 15 its. for a 7 room house.

68

HARDWARE :——F igure the number of locks, hinges and all finishing hardware,
including nails, weights, sash cord, sliding door tracks, etc. Sash cord for an ordinary
Window will take about 20 feet of cord. A 2—1”x28”, two light window will take about
6-pound weights, a 24”x32” 8 pound weights and 4 weights to a window. Single
strength glass will weigh about 1 % pounds per square foot, double strength about 1. 6,
plate about 3% pounds. Sash will weigh for a 24”x28”x13g” about 12 pounds, for
the window 24”x32” about 14 pounds.

FRAME BUILDINGS

When building a frame building the work is figured the same way as for a brick
building except the outside walls.

OUTSIDE WALL STUDDINGz—Take the frame building No. 100 on page 9. The
distance from b to c is 33’ and will take 26 studs, to this add three for the corner posts.
The other side of the building will take the same number of studding from a to f and
from e to (1, you have three extra corners on this side, so you will be required to add
three more studs, making 32 for this side. The distance from a to b is 26 feet and
takes 20 studs; the corners have already been added. The rear of the building from
j to e and from d to c will take the same number of studs as for the front. The plates
can be figured the same way as for the inside partitions. A frame building also
requires a ribbon for the second story joist to rest on. In a frame building the joist
will be longer than in a brick building as they should be even with the outside of the
wall, while in a brick building they lay on the wall from —1 to (3 inches. In a residence
the outside sheathing boards can be figured by taking the actual measurements of the
outside of the building, the openings will make up for the waste of material,

SIDINGz—Siding is figured by taking the superficial square feet and adding one-
third for 6” siding, two—fifths for 5” siding and one-half for 1” to the number of square
feet to be covered. Six inch siding is generally laid 41/13” to the weather, five inch
3%” and four inch 2%”.

CORNER BOARDS z—Corner boards are generally the width of the outside casing
and sometimes a quarter round is put in the corner instead of nailing the corner
boards together.

BUILDING PAPER:—Figure the number of square feet to be covered and allow
15 pounds per square of 100 feet.

LUMBERz—The most of the lumber is surfacedon one side and edge and is,
therefore, from £1 to ,3.§ of an inch less than the dimensions given. A 2x1 is then 1%
inches by 3% inches. All timbers are cut and sold in even lengths and by the foot
board measure, one foot wide and one foot long and one inch thick. The table given
on page 53 gives the number of feet in most of the different sizes of timbers.

FINISHING LUMBERz—Finishing lumber is surfaced on both sides and is sawed
in thicknesses of 1”, 1%”, 1%)”, 2”, 2%” and 3”, but when surfaced the thickness is
reduced T36. of an inch, but is all sold the original size as sawed.

MATCHED FLOORING :—The standard sizes are 1x3, 1x4, 1x6 inches, and 1%x3,

1,14ch and llrjxti inches. 3” flooring is 214:” wide, 4” 3% and 6” 5,1»; inches wide.

BEADED CEILING is regular stock and the widths are the same as the flooring,
and the thickness V, %, % and 3/4 inches, the ég" is dressed one side only and the
others both sides.

BEVELED SIDING is made 4”, 5” and 6”, for 6” add one-third, for 5” two-fifths,
for 4” one—half for waste. For all matched boards take 34 of an inch for matching,
8" ship lap will measure 7%” and 10”, 9%”. Sheathing boards 6” wide when laid
tight on roof or for rough floors add one—sixth to the actual number of feet required.
On roofs where the boards are laid 2” apart, subtract one—fifth for the spaces. Boards
laid tight and diagonal add one—fifth of the actual area for 6’ ’ boards.

FLOORING for 3” add one—half the area, 4” add one-third, and 6” add one-fifth.
For outside walls where there are openings figure the wall solid and do not add any
waste as the openings will make up for the waste. Add two-thirds for thin %’ ’ x1%’ ’
flooring, and five—eighths for 2”.

ESTIMATING

EXCAVATING:—Excavating is generally measured by the cubic yard. The
cost of excavating depends on what is to be done with the earth and the kind of earth.
If the earth is to be scraped out and left lay on the lot, it is done for from 12 to 20
cents per cubic yard. If the earth has to be hauled a long ways (unless it can be sold
at a reasonable price) the expense depends on the length of the haul, from 30 to 60
cents per load. Earth is quite frequently sold, which reduces the cost of excavating.
There is also a great difference in the nature of the soil. If the soil is hard and rocky
or too wet the cost is more than if the soil is sandy or good clay. The price can not
be set at any definite figure. But an average of 20 cents for scraping and 40 cents for
hauling can be safely figured. Digging trenches, about 40 cents per cubic yard.
Carting away old material, about $1 . 25 per load. Leveling yard when earth is
furnished, about 4 cents per superficial yard. ‘

CONCRETE :~This depends on the kind of work and the price of the material
and labor. Concrete is measured by the cubic yard and sometimes by the cubic foot.
\Vhen figuring concrete where forms will be required the cost of erecting the forms
and taking them down must be figured in and also the expense of lumber for forms.
Add to the cost of concrete form 2 to 2% cents per cubic foot, or 54 to 70 cents per
cubic yard for the cost of the forms. With Portland Cement at $1 .50, gravel at $1.00,
crushed stone $1.50 and sand $1.00. mixed in proportion of 1 part of cement, 2 of
sand and 4 of gravel, Cement concrete will cost about 20 cents per cubic foot or
$5.40 per cubic yard when the forms are used, and 18 cents per cubic foot or $4.86
per cubic yard without forms.

CELLAR FLOORS AND WALKS are generally; figured by the square foot and
sometimes by the square yard. The price also depends on the price of cement, labor
and other material. For a 4” concrete with 1” top dressing the cost is about 12%
to 15 cents per square yard for sidewalks and from 10 to 12% for basement floors.
With 3” of concrete and the same top dressing you can deduct 2 cents per square
foot. And for heavier floors add 2 cents per square foot for each additional inch in
thickness.

69

CONCRETE BLOCKS are sold by the cubic foot and the price depends on the
kind of block required. The cost of blocks laid in the wall is from 21 to 28 cents per
cubic foot laid in wall. The cost of blocks vary in different localities and according
to the cost of material and labor.

STONE WORK :—Stone work is most generally measured by the perch. The
number of‘cubic feet in a perch should always be specified, as in some localities 25
cubic feet are used and in others 16% cubic feet. Sometimes they are figured by the
cubic foot and the cubic yard. But in either case the cost is always considered by
the cubic foot and the price per perch or yard' made accordingly. If a perch 0f 16%
cubic feet costs $2.00, a perch of 25 cubic feet will cost % more or $3.00. Rubble
work is generally figured by taking the outside measurements of the wall and the
openings figured in. Rubble stone are sold by the ton or cord. Flagg by the square
foot, dimension by the cubic foot. Customs vary in different cities as to figuring
stone work. Rubble laid in lime mortar costs from 12% to 15 cents per cubic foot;
for cement mortar add about 3 cents per cubic foot to the above kind of stone used.
The cost of cutting ashler is from 15 to 20 cents per square foot for sand and lime
stone and from 25 to 30 cents for granite. The cost for setting ashler is about 15
cents per square foot.

CUT STONE :—Cut stone depends largely on the kind of stone and the price
varies in different localities. The following prices will give a very close estimate
when figuring.

Price per Price per

lineal foot. lineal foot
5”x 7” Window Sills. . . . . . . . . . . $0.45 41”x12” Lintel ................... $0.60
5”x17” Window Sills. . . . . . . . . . . . .70 8”x12” Lintel ................... .10
7”x 7” Window Sills. . . . . . . . . . .’ . .60 8”x16” Lintel ................... 1.30
7”x11” Window Sills. . . . . . . . . . .. .90 4”x11” Coping .................. .55
8”x17” Door Sills... . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 4”x15” Coping ................ .. . .70
8”x15” Door Sills. . . .. . . . . . . . . .. 1.25 4”xl9” Coping .................. .85
6”x11” Door Sills. . . . . _ . . . . . . . .. .70 4:”x23” Coping .................. 1.15
6”x15” Door Sills. . . _ . . . . . . . . . .. .90 8”x15” Coping .................. 1.25
6”x10” Water Table ............ .65 7”x11” Steps .................... 1.00
6”x 8”\Vater Table ............ .55 6”x14” Steps.................... .90
4”x10” Lintel .................. .50 6” thick platform (per square foot) . .45

Add to the above prices for setting 5 cents per lineal foot for window sills and 10
cents for door sills and water table. The cost of labor for cut stone is about 35 cents
per cubic foot.

BRICK WORK :—Measurements for brick are by the cubic foot, counting 22%
brick per cubic foot or superficial foot in a 12” wall, 15 for every superficial foot. for
a 9” wall, 7% for a ~l” wall and 30 for a 16” wall. No deductions are made for openings
less than 70 superficial feet. No deductions are made for stone sills, caps or belt
courses. If the ashler is set by a separate contract, then the thickness of the ashler
is deducted from the thickness of the wall. The cost varies according to the price
of material and labor. The actual number of brick required is about 3/4 of the number
obtained by figuring wall measure. Common brick work costs $10 to $15 per thousand

wall measure according to the kind of wall and height. Labor for common work,
including the mortar costs from $5 to $7 per thousand wall measure. Pressed brick
cost more and the laying costs from $10 to $20 per thousand. Pressed brick at $20
per thousand must be figured at from $30 to $32 per thousand wall measure.

CHIMNEYS WITH TILE LINING, 8”x8” tile and 4” wall 80 cents per lineal foot.
Double 8”x8” $1.40 per foot, 8”xl2” costs $1.25 per lineal foot, U”X16” $1.50 per
foot, 16”X16” $2.50 per foot. Labor and mortar for chimney 30 to 45 cents per
lineal foot and 50 to 75 cents for double fiues. Flue lining 4%;"x8" 30 cents, 4%”);12”
45 cents, 8”x”” 45 cents, 8”Xl2” 65 cents, 12”x16” $1.00, 12”x12” 80 cents, 16”Xl6”
$1.50, 16”X20” $2.00. ' »

CHIMNEY BREAST to be figured the same as for outside brick work.

SETTING BOILER, figure the brick at the regular price for common brick and add
half the amount for extra work. Enameled brick cost from $60 to $00 in the wall.

CISTERN AND CESS POOLS are generally built at a certain price per lineal foot
in depth, cisterns at so much a barrel. Cess pools cost about $3.00 per foot in depth
if not over 4 feet wide. Cisterns cost from 45 to 60 cents per barrel, this includes the
cementing, tiling and cover complete.

BRICK CORNICE double the cost of laying the brick.

WALL COPINGz—Salt glazed are made in 18” and 24” lengths; for 9” wall costs
15 cents per foot. 12” wall 20 cents, and 35 cents for a 16” wall.

TERRA COTTA is usually made according to some special design and it is better ‘

to get prices from the manufacturer.
cornice.

MORTAR COLOR :—Add $1.00 per thousand to the cost of brick when mortar
coloring is used.

COST OF COLORING :A-Red and brown
It comes dry in 500 and 1000 lb barrels.

COST OF CHIPPING BRICK is about $2. 50 per thousand.

UNDERPINNING costs about 50 per cent more for labor than common brickwork
or cement work.

PILASTERS are figured extra; figuring the number of brick in the pilaster, labor
is worth about 25 per cent more than for straight work. For different size bricks
figure the same as for regular size the number of brick to the cubic foot.

PAVING BRICK:~~Paving brick with 6” of cement concrete, 1V2”of sand and the
brick laid edgewise should not cost more than $1.30 per square yard. Concrete
curbing and 20” gutter, 8” thick should not cost over 50 cents per lineal foot. Cellar
floor with the brick laid flat on a 5” cinder base and 1” sand, using paving brick, will
cost about 12%) cents per square foot, sidewalks cost about the same money. If
brick are grouted with cement mortar, add 1 cent per square foot.

PLASTERINGze—Plastering is figured by the square yard and the price depends
on the price of the material and the wages paid.

Drawn work on wood lath, stucco or sand finish, 30 cents per yard.

Brown coat on brick work, 23 cents per yard.

Drawn work on metal lath, stucco or sand finish, 65 cents per yard..

$6 to $8 per lineal foot will get a very good

2% cents per pound, black 3% cents.

70

For Keenen’s Cement add 10 cents per yard.

For blocking to imitate tile add 50 cents per yard. v

For base 6 to 9 inches high of Keenen Cement, 10 cents per lineal foot.

For back plaster on wood lath, 23 cents per yard.

Plaster of Paris moulds 5 cents per inch of girth.

Sackett board, white coat on compo board, 36 cents per yard.

Metal lath on steel prong studs finished on both sides 1%” thick, figure one
side only, $1.75 per yard. ,

Outside with metal lath, cement plaster, 60 to 75 cents per yard.

Pebble dashed, $1. 10 to $1.25 per yard.

COST OF LUMBER :—Prices in lumber vary according to the location, so that it
is impossible to give the cost of it that will be correct in all parts of the country. The
contractor can get the prices from the nearest dealer. For convenience, I will give a
few prices of material. These prices are for hemlock or yellow pine dimension lumber;
for white pine add $2.00 per thousand. Dimension lumber 12 to 16 feet in length

$25.00. Add $1.00 per thousand for every two feet in length over 16 feet long.
No.1Fencing................$ 24.00 Maple ........................ $ 40.00
N02 21.00 Beech ........................ 45.((.
No. l Shiplap ................ 26.00 7/é”x2” Beech ................. 65.1.1
N02 24.00 YellowPine ................... 35.1.;
Flooring, Fence, 6” No. 1 ...... 40.00 %”x4” beaded. ceiling Basswood. 35.( a
No. 2.. . . . ................... 36.00 White Pine, 6” ................ 36.1 .
No. 3 ........................ 29.00 Siding, Basswood, 6” .......... 2711
4” Yellow Pine, quarter sawed. 45.00 Cedar 6”. . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 30.t.(
Flat ......................... 38.00 Red Wood 6” .................. 30M.
6” Yellow Pine, common... . . . . 28.00 Finishing, Yellow Pine ......... 45.0(.
6” Hemlock.................. 22.00 Soft Pine ..................... 50.00
4”Fir ........... , ............ 40.00 Oak 85.00
2”xZ/g” Quarter Sawed Oak.... 100.00 Birch 50.00
Plain Oak .................... 70.00 Gum Wood ................ . . 40. 00
%”x2” Maple, first clear ....... 60.00 Shingles, cedar 6 to 2. . . . . . . . . 3. 75
Factory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 35.00 Shingles. Cedar 5 to 2, .......... 4.00
3/8”x2”Oak............ 65.00

MILL WORK:—~Mill work, the same as for lumber, prices vary according to the
location. A list of material should be made out and sent to some mill for figures, or
the plans can be sent and let the mill man take off the amount of material required.
Following is a price list of some of the material mostly used for common residence work.

DOORS, YELLOW PINE :— 1%” 6 cross panels 1%”
2’6”X7’0”Xl%”.........$2.90 3’0”X7’0”Xl§/3”..........$3.20 $4.60
2’8”X7'0”x1~i«5§”......... 3.00 3’0”X7’0”X13/§” .......... 4.00 5.85
2’10"X7’()”X15'§”........ 3.10 $4.40 2’8”x7’0”x151§”.......... 3.65 5.30

Sash doors, two and four light, about 20 per cent more than for six cross panels.

For one light and two or three panels below, add 40 per cent to cost of solid doors.
Good front doors with beveled plate cost from $8 to $25. Cupboard doors cost about
$1.50 apiece. Side lights on each side of doors cost about half the cost of the door
for each side.

the center of the opening.

13 \‘H thick

Inches Single S.
16 X 20 ..................................... $0.85
16x21 ..................................... .90
18x20 ..................................... .90
18x21 ................................... 1.00
18x32 ..................................... 120
20x20 .................................... 1.00
20x21 .................................... 103
20x28 ..................................... 1.15
20x32 ..................................... 1.35
20x36 ..................................... 1.51
22x24 .................................. 1.10
22x28 ................................... 1.20
22x32 ..................................... 1.11
22x36 ..................................... 162
24x20 ..................................... 1.10
21x21 ..................................... 1.17
21x28 ..................................... 1.31
21x32 ..................................... 130
21x36 ..................................... 155
26x24 ..................................... 1.3
26x28 ..................................... 1.45
26x32 ..................................... 1.60
26x10 2.15
28x21 ..................................... 1.15
28x28 ..................................... 1.55
28X32 ..................................... 1.85
28x36 2.05
28x40 ..................................... 2.18
30x21 .................................... 1.55
30X28 ..................................... 1.70
30x32 2.03
30x36 2.10
30x40 2.62
32X28 2.15
32x32 .....................................
32x36 .....................................
34x32 .....................................

Double S.
31.
1.

05
1 2

1.15

DOC/J1010325[OIOEOIQIOIOIOIOHIOIQHV—‘lOléi—‘HF-‘F-‘IQHHHP-‘r-‘t—‘i—Hv-‘H

. 31
.62
. 30
.33
.15
. 70
.98
. 40
.55
.82
. 16
.45

CASEMENT WINDOWz—A sash or pair of sash made to be hung on hinges.
COTTAGE WINDOWz—A window in which the meeting rails are placed above

FRENCH WINDOW :-—A pair of sash made to hang on hinges like a pair of doors.
QUEEN ANNEz—VVindOWS or sash divided into small lights.
TWO LIGHT WINDOWS—COMPLETE : ~7—

VVeight—lbs.
SS. ' D.S.
12 14
11 16
13 15
'16 18
20 22
15 17
l7 19
21 23
23 25
25 27
19 21
21 ' 23
21 26
26 28
18 10
20 22
23 25
26 28
23 32
31 34
21 23
21 27
27 30
31 30
‘23 25
25 28
2‘.) 31
32 35
. 3 37
25 27
27 30
3 3
35 38
37 10
29 31
35
39
37

71

TWO LIGHT WINDOWS—COMPLETE:——

Weight—lbs.
Inches Single S. Double S. SS. D.S.
31X31)‘15 $3.50 40
36x28”! ................................. 2.55 3.04 ~ 32 35
36X32........... ......................... 3.70 41
36 x 10 ..................................... 4.55 46
40 X 28 ..................................... 3.12 37
40 x 32 ..................................... 3.75 42
40 X 36 ..................................... 4.55 46
40X10......... ... .................. 4.60 49
41 X 30 .................................. 4.05 44
41X32........ ............................ 4.58 46
11 x 36 ..................................... 4.70 50
41 X 40 ..................................... 5.50 53
48 X 30 ..................................... 4.70 47
48 X 32 ..................................... 4.80 49
18 X 36 ..................................... 5.51 53
48 X 10 ..................................... 6.00 55

TWELVE LIGHT WINDOWS>~V
12 X 11 ..................................... $2.04 32
12 X 11 ..................................... 1.45 38
EIGHTEEN LIGHTS:—

10 X 12 ..................................... $2.08 33
10 X 16 ..................................... 2.70 42
12 X12 ..................................... 3.60 46

WINDOW FRAMES for frame buildings complete up to
moulded cap for,

30”X32”, two lights

2”X1” Studs ................... $2.50 2”X6” Studs .................... $2.75
Segment‘headadd .............. 1.50 Circleadd....................... 3.00
For each additional 2” width, 1” in height add 15 cents.
FRAMES FOR BRICK BUILDINGS z—Complete sizes up to 30”X32”
Two lights ............................................................. $3.50
Larger lights. add for each 2” in width ..................................... .30
Circle heads. add each .................................................... 2. 75
Frames for brick veneer the same as for a frame building.
Door frames for frame buildings up to 3’X7’ ............................ $2.60
For transom add ................................................... .70
For brick building .................................................. 3.50
Transoms add ....................................................... .60
Cellar sash frames ................................................... 1.25
Inside door jambs, yellow pine ........................................ 1.00
Inside door jambs, oak .............................................. 1.50
Transoms add ...................................................... .50

Base, casing and moulding 34' of a cent for each inch in Width per lineal foot.

BLINDS:-— Sash locks and lifts, each ........................................... $ .10

Inside ....................................................... —. $3.00 Axle pulley, per dozen .............................................. 1.00
Outside ..... _ .......................... - ......................... 1.25 Sash balances, each ................................................ 1. 75
Seats can be figured at, per lineal foot ............................. l .00 Coat and hat hooks, per dozen ....................................... .20
Stairs, open front 3’6” wide, per step ................................. $ 3.00 Strap hinges, per inch in length ...................................... .05
Stairs, box rear stairs, per step ................................... .‘ . . . 1.50 Ventilating wall grates, each .......................... ' .............. .20
Balusters, each .................................................... . 10 Corner guard, per lineal foot ......................................... .06
Railing, per lineal foot .............................................. . 15 TIN: _
Starting newel posts, each .................................. $6. 00 to 10.00 5 /X7// shingles, each ............................................ _01
Landing newels, each ....................................... $3. 00 to 5.00 Roof per square of 100 feet.
Porch balusters and railing, per lineal foot ............................ .40 gonxggli common IC ......................................... 6.50
Columns 8’ to 9’ high ............................................... 5.00 20H\ 28" old style IC .......................................... 750
Porcheolumnsl2’ ......................................... $6.00to 7.00 2X0”’8”oldstyleIX 8.50
For composition caps, add ................................... $1.50 to 2.00 For 14”): 30” add 30 per cent.
Porch posts, 6x6 box ................................................ 1.70 7” wide tin per lineal foot ...................................... .011“;
Brackets 10”xl2”, 25 centsa—2’x2’ ................................... 1.50 20" valley per lineal foot ........................................ 6
Common drawers each. ........................................... 1.75 GALVANIZED IRON: __
ggggéegzisglnggngf}’rgfigémeal fOOt """""""""""""""""" 1888 Hanging gutter- ’ cents for each inch 111 width pei lineal foot.
InSide COlumnS 6/, round ............................................ q. 00 CORRUGATED DOWN SPOUTS: V——

- """"""""""""""""""""""""" I. 2” , lin .al f t .............. $0 .05 3” er lineal foot .............. $0.051»
InSide columns 10X10 square ........................................ 8.00 I, per , e 00 , _,, p . - -
Inside columns 12x12 square ........................................ 10. 00 4,, per lineal fOOt ---------- '00 a per lineal fOOt """"""" ‘08
COLONNADESz—Colonnades cost from $20 to $100, according to the design 6 p :fiangalléOOt """"""" '10

and size of opening. 7 H :— g 3,,
PLATE RAIL :—About 6 to 7 cents per lineal foot. Paneled wainscot 40 cents in each. ' ' i ' ' ' ' i ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ’ ' ' ' $0 0:: each """"""""""""" $0 09
v , each. .l- 5”each ........................ .17
per square foot. Wood store front, about $2.00 per square foot. 6” each. 01
HARDWARE :—Common 8d, 10d and 20d nails from $2.25, $3.00 per 100 lbs. CUT— OFFS: _ h ' i ' i ' ' I ' ' ' ' W
Finishing nails $2. 75 to $3.50 per 100 lbs. Shingle nails $5.00 to $5.50. 2,, each 0.) w each .75
DOOR IRIMMINGif , 4:” each... . . . . . . . . . . . 36 5’ ’each ........................ .65
InSide lock and h1nges complete for an ordinary house... . . . . . . . . . . . . $1.00 6” each ..................... .80
Outside door hinges complete for an ordinary house ................. 3.00 VENTILATORS P ATENTED _

The price in hardware varies so much on the different designs and kind of material

. . . . . - - 6” each. 1.40 l2”eaeh....................... 2.75
that it would be impOSSible to give or undertake to Give the prices of them all. InSide ,, ., ,, _
. . ° - 1 20 each ...................... 10.00 50 each ....................... l; .00
locks for a good building can be figured $4.00 each and up, outSide doors $5.00 and 7 _ 7)
up. Store door locks complete $6.00 120 $15.00. Sliding door tracks and hangers RIDGE ROLL, per lineal 1001 ................................... -I . . . .1-
$5.00 and up. Sash weights 1% to 2 cents for iron, lead 8 cents per 1b. Sash cord, FINEALS, each ................................................ $1.50 to 3.00
100 feet in a hawk, costs 50 cents. CORNICE, per inch of girth per lineal foot (this includes setting) ......... .02
Dumb waiter ............................................. $15 . 00 to $20. 00 Ends of cornice‘ each ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 5.00
18370ng gctinf .dOOT hinges --------------------------------- 35‘3- 00 to g 88 'MODILLIONS, per foot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .......................... .50
1 11’1" oor rim .................................................. -. H _
Drawgr pulls and lock, each ......................................... . 10 8 CROWN MOULD’ per fOOt """"""""""""""""""""" '10
Push plates, each .................................................. .75 PEDIMENTS ...................................................... 15.00
Door check ........................................................ 5.98 BRACKETS AND BALUSTERS, each ................................ .60
fffié‘fioé‘aiitiftcf '''''''' ' ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::'.'5'o".¢ 1:50 METALemanapersquarem ----------------------------------- ‘10
Barrel bolts, each ............................................ . 10 to . l5 SKYLIGHTS, per square foot ....................................... .60

72

SPEAKING TUBES,perlinealfoot...................................$ .10
ROOF, No. 28, per square ........................................... 8.00
METAL SIDING, per square foot ..................................... . 10
METAL WAINSCOT, per square foot ................................. . 10
METAL SHINGLES, per square of 100 feet, about. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 10.00
IRON WINDOW FRAMES cost, each complete with wire glass, about. . . . 18.00
COPPER :—
For 14 oz. copper put in place, per square foot. . . . . . .. . . . .. ..$0.30
Cornice put in place, per square foot .............................. .60
Gutters put in place, per square foot .............................. .40
Conductors put in place, 6”, per lineal foot. . . . . . . . .60
ROOFING :—
Slate. per square ............................................... $13.00
Tile,persquare................................................ 20.00
Asbestos shingles. per square ........................ - ............ 1 2. 00
“'ood shingles, per square ....................................... 6.50
Stained wood shingles, per square ................................ 9.50
Gravel roof. per square ......................................... 4.00
Carey roofing, per square ....................................... 4.00
Rubberoid, 1-ply. per square .................................... 2.10
Rubberoid, 2—ply, per square .................................... 3. 10
Rubberoid. 3-ply, per square .................................... 4.00
SHEATHING PAPER :—
Xred rosin, 5005quare feet, perroll............................. .50
XX red rosin. 500 square feet, per roll ........................... .60
XXX red rosin. 500 square feet, per roll ......................... .70
Black water proof. 3—ply. per roll ............................... 1 .00
Perfection water proof, per roll ................................. 1. 15
Neponset black sheathing 36”, 500 square feet, per roll ............ 2.00
Neponset red rope, 500 square feet, per roll ....................... 5 .00
P and B 26” rolls. 3—ply, 1000 square feet, per roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.00
Barretts, Eureka brand, per pound .............................. 02%
Saturated felt, 12. 15 and 20 pounds, per pound .................. 01%;
Dry saturated felt, 36” wide. 500 square feet, per roll. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
DEADENING QUILTS, 3 double ply, per 100 square feet ................. $1.25
Union Fibre Company’s, per square 100 feet ........................ 1.25
Asbestos paper, 10 pounds, per 100 square feet ..................... .45
PAINTING for labor and material.
Outside frame building. ‘
lst coat, per square yard ......................................... .09
2nd coat, per square yard ........................................ . 18
3rd coat, per square yard ........................................ .26
For brick work add % for first coat.
Inside work, 2 coats varnishing and filling, per square yard ........... . 18

73

Inside work, 3 coats varnishing and filling, per square yard .......... $ .26

Sanding extra, per square yard ...................................
Floors, per square yard .........
Tinting, per square of 100 feet. . .

................................. 1
Dipping shingles, per thousand ................................... 3

.05
.18
.00
.00

Blinds, per square foot, one coat ................................. .08

Tin roof, per square yard ........................................ .05
BLACKBOARDS :—

Slate, per square foot ............................................ .20

Plaster, per square foot .......................................... .15
IRON WORK :—

I—Beams, Channels and Angles, per pound .......................... .03

Cast iron caps and columns, per pound ............................ .03

No. 9 Wire netting, 11/2” mesh, per square foot ..................... .23

No.8 wire netting, 2” mesh, per square foot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .24

Heavy window wire, per square foot ............................... .60

CARPENTER WORK

SILLS, SOLID, 8 cents per lineal foot.
FRAMING LUMBER not more than 3—story in height.

add 30 per cent.

For more than 3—story

JOISTS:—$8.00 per 1000 feet, or 1% cents per lineal foot, or $1.00 per square of

100 feet.

STUDDING:——Outside wall rafters, collar beams, inside partitions, plates, porch
framing, $15.00 per 1000 feet, or 1 cent per lineal foot, or $1.00 per square of 100

square feet.

SHEATHINGz—Roof and outside walls, $10.00 per 1000 feet, or $1.00 per square

of 100 square feet.

FLOORS z—Attic and rough, $10.00 per 1000 feet, or $1.00 per square of 100

square feet.

FINISHED FLOORS :—Yellow pine.

Laying, per square. . ............$1.25
Smoothing, per square. . . . . . . . . .. 1.25
Laying Hardwood, per square. . . . 1.75

SIDING :—

6”, per square .................. $1. 10

5”, per square .................. 1.30
SHINGLES:—~

Wood laid 41/)”, per square ...... $1.50

Slate, per square ................ 1.75

Tile, per square ................. 2.00
CEILING :—

Porch, per square ............... $1.50

Light shafts, per square ......... . 1.50

Scraping, per square. . . . . . . . . . . . . $1.75
Porch floors, per square ........... 1.00
4”, per square ................... 1.60
Drop, per square ................. 1.25
Asbestos, per square. . . . . .. .. $1.50

Patent roofing, per square. '. . 1.00

Wainscot, per square ............. $1.50

....................................

CORNICEz—One cent for each inch in width of girth per lineal foot.

OUTSIDE BASE, per lineal foot ...................................... $0.06
PORCH RAIL AND BALUSTERS, per lineal foot ....................... .18
CASING AND HANGING WINDOWS :—
1‘rame building each............$1. 50 Transom,each................ . $1.00
Brick each. . . 1. 75 '
DOOR HANGING AND CASING: —
Inside door... . . . . . $2. 23 Outside door .................... $2. 75
Sliding doors ................... 4.00 Cupboard doors. . . . . .60
Transoms ...................... l. 00 ....................................
Inside base 11 1th mould and quarter round per lineal foot. . . . . . .330 ()6
Plate rail per lineal foot ............................................ .07
Pictuie mould. per lineal foot ........................................ .02
Front stairs, per step ............................................... 1 .50
Rear and cellar stairs, per step .................................... .60
Cupboards. each ................................................... 1200
China cupboard, each ............................................... 10. 00
Closets, each ...................................................... 1 .00
-STOREFRONTS,persquarefoot..... 15
Screen. windows. each .............................................. .30
Blinds. each ....................................................... .50
Storm sash. each ................................................... .60
Screen doors. each ................................................. .60
TILE FLOORS, per square foot ...................................... .50
MANTEL ............................................... $10 . 00 to $100.00
GAS PIPING, per lineal foot in place ................................ . l2
HEATING, hot air. including registers for 6 to 10 room house. 31312.3. 0 0 to $200.00
PLUMBING, according to the fixtures ...................... $200. 00 to $400 .00
BUILDING MATERIALS
lbs,cu.ft. 1b5.cu.ft.
Brick, pressed .................. , , 150 Granite or limestone well dressed. . 1125
Brick, common ................... 125 1.1111estones and marbles .......... 108
Cement Portland. . .80 to 100 Lime. quick ..................... 53
Cement Rosedale.. . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Mortar hardened... .. . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Common brick w ork cement mortar 1 ;() Plaster of Paris. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , 111 . 6
Common brick w ork, lime 1nortar.... 120 Sand ...................... 00 to 106
ConcreteCement..................140 Sandstone.......................151
Earth dry, shaken ................ 00 Slate ........................... 175
Earth, rammed ................... 100 ....................................
USEFUL MEMORANDA AND TABLES
One cubic inch of cast iron weighs .................................. 0. 26 lbs.
One cubic inch of wrought iron weighs ................................ 0. 28 lbs.

74

One cubic inch of water weighs ...................................... 0.036 lbs.
One cubic foot of water weighs ...................................... 62. 321 lbs.
One United States gallon weighs ..................................... 8.33 lbs.
. One Imperial gallon weighs .......................................... 10. lbs.
One cubic foot of water equals. .U. S. gal. 7 48

Approximate estimate by the square or superhcial foot of the building, includin<r
material and labor complete W 1th profit.

FLOOR SPACE .—

1st floor, No. 1 fence floor on joist per square foot ............. T. . .130 01.3
2nd floor, No. 1 fence floor 111th plaster per square foot ............ . l8
5 é oak floors on rough floor per square foot ....................... .28
73' oak floors on rough floor per square foot ....................... .32
78x1” \ellow pine on 3-8 rough floor ....................... 21 and 21
73x1” yellow pine on joist per square foot. .17 and 20
Attic floor, per square foot ................... ’ ................... 18
Shingle roof, wood, per square foot .............................. .12
Shingle roof. stained. per square foot ............................. .15
Shingle roof. slate and tile, per square foot ........................ . 19
Cary's roof. per square foot ...................................... .08
Inside partition walls, per square foot ............................ . 14
Outside \\ all. plastered inside and siding on outside per square foot. . .21
11 indows 21X 28 to 28x3 2 double strength glass. each” 10.00
Plate glass, add ............................................... 6.00
Art, per square foot ............................................ 1.50
Brick, common 12” wall or veneer. per square foot ................ 28
Brick, pressed ................................................. .31
Brick piers, per lineal foot ...................................... .70
Brick chimney, per lineal foot ................................... .80
Doors, front ................................................... 15.00
Doors. rear and inside .......................................... 8. 00
Stairs, front ........... ' ........................................ 50.00
Sta1rsrear 28.00
Stairs. cellar ................................................... 12. 00
Cupboard, per lineal foot ........................................ 5. 00
Closets. each .................................................. 3.00
Porches, per square foot ........................................ 1.00
Outside steps. per square foot ................................... .50
Gutters. per lineal foot .......................................... . 12
Cement floors. per square foot ................................... . 10
Stone, per cubic foot ........................................... .15
Tin, per square of 100 feet ...................................... 8.00
Cornice per lineal foot .......................................... .50

Gable \\ alls, per square foot. . . . . . .
Gas. about- 2 per cent of cost of building.
Electricity, about 21/3' per cent of the cost of building.

Plumbing about 8 per cent of cost of building.

Heating, hot air, about 5 per cent of cost of building.
Heating. steam. about 10 per cent of cost of building.
Heating, water, about 13 per cent of cost of building.

Carpenter work is sometimes figured by taking 60 to 65 per cent of the lumber
and mill bill. Say the lumber bill is $500 and the mill $300, making $800 in all; take
(30 per cent of $800 and you have $480 for carpenter labor.

SPECIFICATIONS

When writing specifications there should be a general condition clause covering all
of the details and conditions that are likely to arise during the erection of the building
and that cannot be foreseen and provided for under the classified headings of the
different parts of the specifications. The general condition clause forms part of the
agreement and is as binding as the contract itself. and should always be written
before the specifications, then they will all be read by the contractors before their
bids are put in. It gives a better understanding between the contractor and the owner
of what is required of each of them. It must be stated in the general conditions
just what part of the material and labor the contractor is expected to furnish and
what will be furnished by the owner. After you have completed the general conditions,
the specifications should be written and divided up under separate headings, according
to the number of different trades that are represented in the work; as masonry,
carpenter work, painting, plumbing, heating, wiring, etc. If the work is all to be
let under one general contract, then all of the headings will come under one general
heading, as General Contract. Following is a list of some of the headings required
when writing specifications.

GENERAL CONDITIONS 2—Permits, drawings. materials, and workmanship,
Changes, water supply, special liabilities, lien laws, proposals, bonds, certified checks.

MASONRYz—Excavating, leveling of yard, mortar, concrete, cement floors,
drains, cesspool, foundation wall. cross walls, cistern. footings, areas, ashler facing,
wall coping, stone caps, cut stone, brick work, chimneys, tile lining, tile floors, thimbles,
lath and plaster, etc.

CARPENTER WORK:——Kind and size of timbers, girders, partitions, bridging,
grounds, furring, rough floors, roof and outside sheathing, shingles, building paper, etc.

EXTERIOR FINISH z—Cornice, water table, corner boards, porches, ceiling,
siding, etc.

INTERIOR FINISH z—Base, casing, kind of trim and material, window and door
frames, sash and doors, blinds, wainscot, cupboards, beams, picture mould, columns,

75

screens, seats, colonnade, clothes chute, bookcases, corner guards, main, rear and cellar
stairs, steps to porches, mantels, closets, dumb waiter, linen closet, woodwork in
basement, coal bins, shelves, refrigerator, etc. '

HARDWARE :—Hardware is generally furnished by the contractor except tht-
finishing hardware, which is sometimes furnished by the owner and put on by the
contractor.

TIN AND GALVANIZED IRON WORKz—Kind of tin, gutters, down spOuts.
cut-offs, ridge and hip roll, valleys, flashing.

ELECTRIC WIRINGz—How to install the wires, certificate of inspection, size of
wires, cut-out cabinet, number and kind of switches.

PLUMBING :wDrains, waste pipe, vents and revents, traps, test, fixture, lavations,
sinks, slop sink, boiler, heater, tub, wash trays.
HEATING :——Hot Air:-—Kind of registers, piping, furnace.
Hot Wate::r*Furnace, piping, radiators.
Steam :—Furnace, piping, radiators.
GAS FITTINGz~Location and number of lights.

PAINTING :—Kind of paint, number of coats, exterior, shingles, iron, tin and
galvanized iron; interior plastering, varnishing, kind of varnish, number of coats and
how done; stains, putty, shellac, floor finish, wainscot, enamel.

The following specifications can be had on good paper with a blank cover for 35
cents per set, fOur sets for $1.00, or if 25 sets are taken at one time, I will have your
name and address printed on the cover for $5.00 for the 25 complete sets. I also
have contracts and estimating blanks ready to fill in for which I ask 50 per sheet.

9L

SPECIFICATIONS

Specifications of the material and workmanship required in the erection of a ....................
......................................... tobebuiltat

................... for hereinafter

deSIgnated the owner, in accordance with drawings and specifications and under the supervision of the

............................................................................................

GENERAL CONDITIONS, etc. z—All work to be done in a workmanlike manner. The contractor
shall give his personal superintendence to the work and furnish all materials, transportation, labor and
appliances required for the full performance of the work herein specified, except as may be otherwise
definitely mentioned.

He shall lay out his work and be responsible for its correctness. He shall be liable for all accidents
to person or damage to property traceable to the negligence of himself or his subordinates, and shall
protect the work at all times during its progress.

He must also see that all the requirements of these specifications are fully and faithfully observed
and complied with by all his subcontractors, material—men and workmen at all times. He is required
to become entirely familiar with these specifications and the building, and Will at once report to the

................................. any discrepancy, errors or omissions which may be found to exist

in them, and will abide by the decisions and explanations made in such case by the ........... . .........

He will also see that his subcontractors commence their work promptly at the proper time, carry it
on with due diligence, that they do not delay or injure other work or materials, and that all damage

caused by them or their workmen is thoroughly and promptly made good by ........................

at ........ own expense.

WATER SUPPLY :—The contractor must comply with all local ordinances and the building laws,
pay all fees, and each several contractor must pay the cost of water in the work of his contract during the
erection of the building.

SPECIAL LIABILITIES OF CONTRACTORz—In addition to the liabilities elsewhere mentioned,
each contractor assumes all liabilities for the violation of any law or ordinance, or in consequence of the
injury or death of any person in or about the building, and the result of the acts of any of his employees
or subcontractors, entirely relieving the owner from any or all liabilities that might arise in such case.

DAMAGE BY ACCIDENT :—The contractor shall put up and maintain such barriers and red lights
as will effectually prevent any accidents in consequence of his work for which the owners might be held
liable in any way by his neglect or that of his agents, employees or workmen.

CHANGES IN WORK AND MATERIALS :——The contractor will not make any changes in either work
or material from the kinds required by these specifications excepting that such changes have been duly

authorized and ordered by the ............................................ , should the contractor
make any changes in the material or work without first receiving authority therefor in the manner herein
provided, he will be required to remove such work and material at his own expense, and Will provide
those required by the specifications for the building.

DRAWINGS :—All these drawings are intended to co-operate with the specifications and to‘form
part thereof and also form part of the contract. Where figures are given they are to be followed in
preference to measurements by scale. The contractor shall, upon completion of the work, remove all
debris and rubbish, repair all damage done to the work (except damage done by fire) and leave the work
in perfect order and repair at the termination of his work.

LIEN LAW :—The provisions of the lien law in this state will be strictly obeyed, and all necessary
and proper precaution will be taken to duly guard the interest of the owner affected thereby. The
contractor will promptly furnish all papers required of him in accordance with the provisions of the lien
law, and Whatever is necessary to protect their interests, the owner will retain payments otherwise due,
until these can be made to the proper parties in interest, these payments then to be accounted as having
been paid to the contractor, and to be so credited by him.

The architect shall furnish to the contractors such further explanations as may be necessary to
illustrate the work to be done, and his decision as to the interpretation or intent of the drawings and
specifications shall be final and binding to all parties concerned. ‘

The owner reserves the right to reject any or all bids.

LL

CONTRACTS:—The building will be let in ................................ separate contracts.

General Contract ............................... Hardware .............................
Foundation ................................... Iron Work ............................
Cement \Vork ................................. Mill Work ........... i .................
Carpenter ..................................... Excavating ...........................
Painting ..................................... Plastering .............................
Brick \Vork .................................. Plumbing ..............................
- Tile Work .................................... Heating ..............................
Metal Ceiling ................................. Electric Wiring ........................

General contract has reference to all work on the building that is not let by separate contract.

KINDS OF MATERIAL

CEMENT :—All cement, unless otherwise specified, shall be .................... Portland Cement.
SAND:

BROKEN STONE: «Broken stone shall be clean crushed lime stone of mixed sizes, none larger than
what will pass through a two—inch hole.

 

Sand to be sharp and free from vegetable matter.

GRAVELz—Gravcl must be clean and none larger than two-inch will be allowed.
MORTAR::Lime mortar to be one part of lime putty and three of sand.

CEMENT LIME MORTAR:~—Ceinent lime mortar to have one part of cement, three of sand and one
of lime putty.

LIMEz—All lime to be fresh burned quick lime of best quality.

CONCRETE :—All cement to be mixed in proportion of one part of cement, ............ of sand

and ............ of broken stone or screened gravel.

MIXING OF CONCRETE >4Vhen mixed by hand lay a tight board floor and spread out the sand,
put on the cement and thoroughly mix them by shoveling it over twice, then put on the crushed stone
or gravel and shovel again and add water. Add plenty of water to make a slush.

TOP DRESSING :—Cement and sand in equal parts.
FOOTINGS:~

Porch pier ...........................................................................
Steps ...............................................................................
Basement cross walls .................................................................
Foundation wall ......................................................................
Chimneys ..................................... i .....................................

Posts ......................................................................... ' ......

FOUNDATION WALL :—
Above grade .........................................................................

Below grade .........................................................................
OUTSIDE WALLS
BRICK :—

Face ................................................................................
Common ........................................................................... ,
Mortar ..............................................................................

Metal ties ..........................................................................

8L

CUT STONE ...........

WINDOW AND DOOR SILLS .............................................. .. .............
WINDOW AND DOOR CAPS:—

Front ...............................................................................
Qide ..............................................

Rear ................................................................................
PORCH PIERS :—

Front ...............................................................................

Rear ................................................................................

Side ............................................................. . ..................
PLASTERING :—

Interior ..............................................................................

Exterior .............................................................................
LATH :—

Interior .............................................................................
Exterior ............................................................................

Remarks ............................................................................
WAINSCOT :—

Bathroom ..........................................................................
Kitchen .............................................................................
Diningroom ....................................................... ’ ..................
Livingroom......................................I ..................................

Toilet room ..........................................................................

TILE FLOORS ...........................................................................
FRAMING LUMBER :—

Sills ..................................... . ...........................................
Studding..i .........................................................................
JOIsts ................ I ......
Outside sheathing ....................................................................
Roof sheathing ............................... y ........................................
SHINGLES ..............................................................................
SIDING ................................................................... ' ..............
EXTERIOR TRIM .......................................................................

Remarks ................... L ........................................................
INTERIOR TRIM :—

Living room .................................................... ‘ .....................
Dining room .........................................................................
Reception room ......................................................................

Library ...... . . ...................................................

65

Stairs and stair hall ...................................................................
Kitchen .............................................................................
Bath room ......... ,. ............................................................

Bed room, first floor ..................................................................
Bed rooms, second floor .............................................................

Closets .............................................................................
BEAM CEILING :-——

Dining room ........................................................... . . ..........

Living room ...... , ............................................. . ...................

Hall ................................................................. . .......... . .
METAL CEILING ..................................................... i ...................

Remarks ............................................................................
ROUGH FLOORS :——

First story ...........................................................................
Second story .........................................................................

Third story .........................................................................
FINISHED FLOORS :—

LiVing room .........................................................................
Dining room .........................................................................
Reception room ..................................................... i .................
Library .............................................................................
Attic ...............................................................................
Front porch.“ ........................................................................
Rear porch ..........................................................................
Vestibulc ................................. .. .' .......................................
Stair platforms ............................................... . ........................
Stair hall ............................................................................
Kitchen. . . . ........................................................................
Bath room ...........................................................................
Bed room, first floor ..................................................................
Bed rooms, second floor ...............................................................

Store room ..................................... . .....................................
TIN :—
Valleys ..............................................................................

Ridgeroll ...........................................................................
Gutters...........................: ................................................
Hanging gutters ......................................................................

Fineals ................................................................ . .........

08

BUILDING PAPER:—
Between floors ......................................................................
Under shingles ...................... ‘ ................................................

Under siding ........................................................................
PORCH COLUMNS :—

Kind ...............................................................................
Size ................................................................................

Caps ................................................................................

PORCH CEILING ........................................................................
HARDWARE :—

Hardware on first floor to be ..........................................................
Hardware on second floor to be ............................. , .........................

Bath room hardware to be ............................................................

PAINTING :—
White lead ..........................................................................

Oil ......... - ........................................................................
Shellac ...... O .......................................................................

Stain ...............................................................................
VARNISH :—
Outside .............................................................................

Inside ...............................................................................
WAX. . . .' ...............................................................................
SHINGLE STAIN ..........................................................................

Remarks ............................................................................

SCREEN WIRE ............................................... ' ...........................
DOORS :—

First floor ...........................................................................

Second floor .........................................................................
GLASS :—

Living room .........................................................................
Dining room .........................................................................
Reception room ......................................................................
Reception hall ........................................................................
Bed room, lst floor ...................................................................
Bed rooms, 2nd floor ..................................................................
Kitchen .............................................................................
Bath room ..........................................................................
Casement, windows in .................................................................

Transom over Dutch window ........................................................

18

Tran sonis ...........................................................................

China closet .........................................................................

Store . front ........................................................................ . .
FURNACE :—

Hot water ............. . ....................................... . .....................
Steam ..............................................................................

Hot air .................................................................. . ..........

REGISTERS :—

First floor ...........................................................................

Second floor .........................................................................
PLUMBING :—

Numbers to refer to ............................................... I ....... in catalogue.
Bathtub....................., ................................................. _ .....
Lavatories ...........................................................................
Closets ..............................................................................
Kitchen sink .........................................................................
Slop sink ...................................... I .................................... . .
Laundry tubs ........ ., ................................................................
Hot water boiler .....................................................................
Grease trap ..........................................................................
Instantaneous heater .................................................................
\Vater lift ...........................................................................
Kind of faucets .......................................................................
Soft water tank ......................................................................
Pressure tank .........................................................................
Sillcocks ............................................................................

Sewerage ............................................................................

DESCRIPTION OF WORK
EXCAVATING :—C1ear away all rubbish, excavate for the basement, porch piers and step footings,

cistern and drains to cistern according to plans and specifications. All earth or rock to ..............

................................ the premises.

FOOTINGS:—I“ootings for piers to be 4 feet (5 inches below grade. All other footings the size marked
on plans.

LEVELING THE YARD :—The contractor to grade the yard as directed by the owner.

FOUNDATION WALL :——The foundation wall to be ............................ inches thick to

grade and ...................... inches thick above grade. All exposed wall to be laid in regular
courses and tuck pointed with cement mortar.

PORCH PIERS:-—l’orch piers to be built the size marked on plans.

CEMENT FLOOR :——Basement to have a 4-inch cement floor in rooms ..........................
same to have 3 inches of cement concrete and 1 inch of top dressing. Floor to be drained to where

directed by owner.

Z8

CEMENT STEPS :—-—The ............................ . ............. . . .............. . . . . . . . .
CEMENT WALKS :——The walk in front to be the width of the steps for ........ feet, then ........

wide to the street walk. Walks to the rear will be ........ Wide; all walks to have 4 inches of concrete
and 1 inch of top dressing.

BRICK WORK :—‘A1.L brick for backing up and inside wall to be hard burned. Face brick to be

bound to the common brick with ................ . .............................................
................ Jack arches over openings in and
row locks over ................................... openings. Inside walls to be built up between
the joists to the under side of the floor.

CHIMNEYS:—Build chimneys where shown on plans, furnace flues to have ....................
inch tile lining, kitchen and fireplace flue ....... I ........... I. . . . . . ..... . . inch tile. Furnish all
necessary thimbles and iron ash doors. Face joints to be . . . .' ................. . ...................

CISTERN:~——Build a .................. barrel cistern, where shown on. drawing, .......... tile

‘ neck, ................ ‘ cover, 4-inch thick wall, well cemented and guaranteed to hold water for one year.

TILINGz~Put 4—inch glazed tile drains from building to cistern as shown on plans.

 

MANTEL: Furnish and put in place ........................ mantel in .............. and
..................................................... in same to be as catalogue number
............................. of catalogue. Mantel to cost
................................ f. o. b. cars Design to be

selected by the owner. Contractor to put the same in place.

TILE HEARTHz—Tile hearth to be of tile .................... laid on a 3—inch bed of cement
concrete.

LATH:———Lath all side walls and ceilings on the first and second story, stair soffits and .......
....................................................................... Joints to be broken
every 10 lath. No lath to be put on vertical or run through behind the studs. All lath back of tiling

must be metal. All joints where brick work joins the woodwork to have a metal lath 10 inches wide,

all ceiling beams to be covered with metal lath. All exterior angles to have metal corner guard ......

PLASTERINGi—Plaster all walls and ceilings .............................. and finish with a
coat of stucco or sand finish as the owner may direct. Bath room and ............................
to have a ...................... wainscot 5 feet high and ...................................
also to have a ........................... base same as wainscot 6 inches high. Kitchen to have
three foot ................................... wainscot.

Remarks .............

INTERIOR BEAMS AND CORNICEzw—Bcams ceiling and cornice in ..........................
room as per detail drawing.

PLASTER PATCHINGz—Do all necessary patching after the other craftsmen have finished their
work, and repair all damaged plaster and cracks.

CARPENTER WORKz—The carpenter shall do all the cutting of timbers as may be required by the
other crafts for the due execution of their work.

FRAMINGza—The frame work shall be balloon frame. Double all joists under partitions and spread
them apart 4 inches where pipes are to go through between them. Put double headers around all openings
in the floor. Truss all openings 3 feet wide and oyer with two 2”x8” timbers, double stud on each side
all of inside openings.

$8

GIRDEsz-All girders to be the size marked on plans and made by spiking 2-inch timbers together.

Joist 2”x. .’—~lti” centers for the first story and ‘2”.\'. .’~—lt3” centers for the second story, attic joist

II II

2”X. .’—]tl” centers. Collar beams 2”x. . , one to every ................ rafter, rafters 2”x. . . . inch

centers. Outside studs 2”x..’—lti”centers. partitions 2”x. ’46” centers. Valley and hip rafters

2”x. . . .”. l’orch floor joist 2”x. .’—lti” centers and the outside ones doubled, ceiling and roof joist for

II

porches 2”x. . . .” centers.

COAL BIN: wBuild coal bin in basement of ti-ineli matched flooring, with flooring door and boards

3 feet high back of door made to slide.

BRIDGINszwBridge all joists of lti foot span and less with one row of l”x2§” cross bridgings, spans

of lti to 18 feet to have two rows and over 18 feet three rows.
GROUNDS: —l’ut 7/§”x7«§” grounds around all inside openings to stop off the plastering.

FURRING:——li‘ur all walls for base and wainscot cap with 2”x7/§” strips for wood. and 1/2”x2” for

brick walls. All exposed brick walls will be furred with l”x2” strips spaced .............. inch centers.

OUTSIDE SHEATHINGz—Thc outside sheathing to be nailed with two 8d. nails each bearing.

ROUGH FLOORS:—~The rough floors to be laid ....................................... on the
first story and .............................................. on the second story. Attic floor
to be laid over the ......................................... All oak floors to be scraped and

sanded. yellow pine floors smoothed and sanded, other floors, the joints smoothed. l’orch floors to be

laid in white lead, smoothed and sanded.

BUILDING PAPERz—l’ut one layer of building paper between all double floors and under all sidingr

and one layer of ............................ under ......................... shingle.
SHINGLES:~v~Sliingles to be laid .............................. . ............ to the weather
and nailed with ...................... nails.

PORCHESV’Build the porches the size marked on the plans and as detailed. Beaded ceiling to be

smoothed before putting it in place. Railing as shown on detail, balusters ........ spaced ...... centers.

WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES:V#Basement frames to be made of 2”x8” soft pine plank with
quarter round on the outside, sash to be hung at, the top and fastened with an approved sash fastener,
also provide hook to fasten sash when open.

CASEMENT FRAMES:~Made for the sash to swing out.

 

BOX FRAMES:#All box frames to have ......... , ..... jambs and ..................... , axle
pulleys and pockets for weights. Outside casing)r to be .............................. inches by. . . .
.............. and madeforblinds. Headcasingtobe

STATIONARY WINDOWS: Stationary window frames will have a ............... Wide stop
on the outside.

DOOR FRAMES :~—~Outside door frames to have ......... inch ...... jambs with a 2—inch ......

sill, casing same as for the Windows. Furnish all outside stops with frames.

CORNER BOARDS z—Corner boards to be .................... inch with a .............. inch
quarter round in corner.

CORNICE:-~l’lanceer to be of . . . . . . . . . . .inch by .............. inch ............... wide.

FRIEZE:~—Frieze % inch by .................. inches with a 21/2 inch bed mould.

FASCIAz—Fascia to be }§”x. . . .”. Gable ends and dormer to have .................... inch

.................. ........mould.

V8

PORCH CORNICEt—Porch cornice to be as detailed of ......................................
Remarks................................ .........

MOULDING :—Crown .............. inch. Bed. .................... inch.

WATER TABLE :———As shown on .............................. sides of building.

BARGE BOARD :——As shown ..................................... , ........................

OPEN TIMBER WORKz—As shown ..................... . .................................

SIDING:—Siding to be ...................... inches and laid .................... inches to
the weather nailed with (id. siding nails.

OUTSIDE STEPS:—Front steps to be 13% inches wide by 1% inches thick, with % inch cove under
nosing.
SIDE AND REAR STEPS :——Rear steps to have ll%{”x. . .. inch treads. All outside steps to be

of ........................................

DOORS AND WINDOW SASH:—~Outside doors to be ................ inches thick. Sliding
doors .................... inches thick and inside doors, first floor, ...................... inches
thick. Second floor, ...................... inches thick.
Remarks ..........

BASEMENT DOORS:—Door in basement to be ............................ thick. Outside
doors will be .......................... inside doors ....................... All doors on first
and second floor to be made to match the inside trim.

CUPBOARD DOORS :—All cupboard doors to be .......................... inches thick... . ..
...................................... doors.

SASHz—All sash for plate glass to be 1% inches thick, other sash to be .............. inches
thick. All sash to be soft pine.

INTERIOR TRIM :—~To be as detailed on ....................................... second floor
........................... closets

BASE :—Base to be .. ................ inches ................ i with ................ and
quarter round. Kitchen base ............................ closet ..............................

CASING z—Casing to be as detailed .................... wide, with .................. head.
Closet casing to be ............................................................................
Remarks ....................................................................................

WAINSCOTz—Will be as detailed in the ........................ and ......................
Remarks ...................................................................................

SEATS :——All seats will have paneled back and front as detailed. Seat in ......................

room to be as detailed. All seats made to open.

Remarks ...................................................................................
BOOKCASEz—Build bookcase in ............................................... as detailed.
Remarks ....................................................................................
COLONNADEz—Colonnadc between .................. room and ............ to be as detailed
with ............................................. caps.

Remarks ....................................................................................

98

PICTURE MOULDz—I’icture mould in all rooms to match trim and where directed by the owner.
CORNER GUARDS :——Put 1%”)(4’ three-quarter round corner guards on all exterior angles.
KITCHEN CUPBOARD :—Build a kitchen cupboard where shown and as detailed or described.

Remarks ................................................................................ . . . .
FLOUR BINz—To be lined with tin and to tip out.
PANTRY CUPBOARD :—I’antry cupboard will be built as detailed or described.

Remarks ....................................................................................

LINEN CLOSETk—Linen closet will have .......... 10—inch drawers the full width and ........
shelves above the drawers.

CHINA CLOSETz‘China closet will be as detailed to match the trim.

DRAWERS IN CLOSET :——I’ut ...... 10-inch drawers in closets number ......................

CLOSETS:—l’ut two 16-inch shelves in each closet and two Jr—inch strips all around the closet. Put

a'coat and hat hook, one every 8 inches on both strips.
PLATE RAIL : ~—l’ut a plate rail in dining room as detailed.

STAIRS:-—Front stairs to be .................... built where shown and as detailed, l%-inch
treads, [73—inch risers, with cove under nosing .............................. string.

REAR STAIRS:—-Rear stairs to be a box stairs, . . . . . . . . inch treads, % inch risers of ............
Stairs to basement to have 1% inch treads, 10 inches wide, 73 inch risers all of ..... ' .................

All stairs to have three 2”x12” horses, except for the outside steps, which will have a horse every 24 inches.

CLOTHES CHUTEzv—I’ut in a ...... inch ............................ clothes chute from the

bath room to the basement, same to have a door opening on first and second floor. Make a box for

clothes in basement as detailed of ........................... lumber.
THRESHOLD :~—Put oak thresholds under all outside doors.

SCREENS :—Put screen doors on all outside doors, .................. inches thick of ..
wood. Double hung windows will have screens on the ...................... side, ..............

size to ......................

MEDICINE CHEST:~—Build medicine chest in bath room wall J. inches deep, lti”x2()”, with panel

door 1,1, 3' inches thick, same to have three shelves.
GLAZINsz-Art glass in ................................ and to cost 35 ........ per square

foot and in .................... room to cost it? ........ per square foot. Put mirror in ............
doors. All glass not described to be double strength.

GAS :——Pipe the building for gas according to the rules of the city gas company. Provide for kitchen
range, heater in the bath room and connect same. Figure street connections and provide for meter in
basement ready for use..

VALLEYS:—Valleys to be 20 inches wide. Flash around all chimneys and where roofs join the

p—v

main building with I inch wide tin. All gutters and tin roof to be painted on the under side. All tin

to be .................... lb. coating.

GALVANIZED IRON:—-All hanging gutters to be ............. inches for the main building and
.......... inches for the porch and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Down spout to be . . . . . . . . . . inches for the
main building and .......... inches for the ................................... All down spouts
to be corrugated and have cut-offs at ................................ Put .......... inch hip

and ridge rolls on all hips and ridges.

Remarks ........................................................................... ' .........
FINEALS:—Fineals, one at each gable.

98

HARDWARE :—Contractor to furnish all hardware to complete the building.

All numbers refer to .............. . . ................ catalogue.

Front and side outside door locks .............. Axle pulleys .............................
Rear outside door locks ....................... Store door locks ..........................
Inside door locks, lst floor .................... Blind hinges .............................
Inside door locks. 2nd floor .................... Storm sash hinges .........................
Door knobs. 1st fig ............................ Basement window fasteners .................
Door knobs, 2nd 'flg ........................... Cellar sash hinges .........................
Escutcheons. lst fig. . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Transom hinges ............ i ..............
Escutcheons, 2nd fig .......................... Sash locks lst fig ........ _ ..................
Bath room trim .............................. Sash locks 2nd floor ........ - ...............
Hinges. outside doors ......................... Transom lifts. . . . . . . .....................
Hinges, inside doors .......................... Sash pulls ................................
Sliding door tracks ........................... Drawer pulls ..............................
Basement trim ............................... Thumb latch .............................
Cupboard catches ............................ Door plate ................................
Double action door hinges ..................... Barrel bolts ........ . .......................
Casement window hangers ..................... Coat and hat hook.. . . . . , ..............
Sash cord. . .‘ ................................. Sash weights for plate glass .................
Door stops .................................. W'eights for other glass ....................

BLINDS:——Blinds on all windows marked B.
STORM SASHz—Storm sash on all windows marked S.

PAINTING :——All exterior woodwork to have ................ coats of paint, color to be selected

by owner. All knots and sappy places to have a coat of shellac. Putty all cracks and nail holes. Porch

floors to be painted ............ coats. Porch ceilings to have ............ coats of ...............
Vi'oodwork in basement to have ........................ coats of paint. Tin and'galvanized iron to
have ........................... . ....... coats of .............. ' ............ and ..............

of lead and oil.
INTERIOR PAINTING :—'-Inside of window sash to be grained to match the trim. Wainscot in

kitchen to have ................. coats of . . . and one of glue size. Plastering in ..............
to have ............. coats of . . . . and one of glue size. Bath room wainscot to have ............
coats of paint, one of oil size and ............ of white enamel. All woodwork in bath room to have
...................... coats of paint and of
Old woodwork to have .............. coats of .......................................... ....

INTERIOR STAINING:——Living room ....... . .......... : dining room ............. . ....... ;
stair hall ' .................... ; kitchen ...................... ; bedroom, first floor, ............
bedrooms, second floor, ......................................................................
Remarks .................. . .................................................................

£8

FILLER:-»—;\ll hardwood to have a coat of paste tiller. yellow pine liquid filler.

VARNISHz—Living room ...... . . ........ coats, dining room ................ coats, hall and
stair ................ coats, kitchen ....... . .......... coats, bed rooms ................ coats.
Sand between coats in ............................................... to be rubbed.

TINTING‘:——'l‘int rooms ............................................ color to suit the owner.
Remarks ................ . . ..................................................................

SHINGLE STAIN:—»—All wood shingles to be dipped in .............. shingle stain two-thirds the
length of the shingle ........................ coats and .....................................

HEATING: —»—Set one number ........... cast iron ............................. furnace where

directed by the. owner on a cement foundation and a galvanized iron smoke stack.
RADIATORS: —Figurc ........................ . ............. feet of radiation.

Remarks ................................................................ . . ............ - ......
HEATER PIPES:--«-Run all vertical stacks and cellar pipes to the different registers where shown in
the floor plans. each pipe to have a damper close to the furnace.
COLD AIR DUCTS: «Put cold air ducts the. required size to the ................ and ............
PIPE COVERING: ~Cover all hot air pipes in the basement with two layers of asbestos sheets,
weighing not less than ll) pounds to the square, of 100 feet.
GUARANTEE: eliurnish the owner with a written guarantee that the heating apparatus shall heat
the rooms in the building to a temperature of 70 degrees when the weather is 20 degrees below zero on
the outside.

REGISTERS z—VVall registers for the following rooms ........................................

........................... floorregisterfor
All registers to be approved by the owner.

ELECTRIC WIRING :~~-;\ll wiring to be done according to the rules of the national fire under-writers
and the local ordinance for wiring. The work embraces all labor and material necessary for a complete
wiring system except lixturcs and their installation.

CUT OUT CABINET:A——The cut out cabinet will be located in .......................... and will

be of ample size. made of ................................... lined with .................. sheet
asbestos, with a panel door furnished complete by this contractor.

MAIN FEED WIRES:—~Thc main feed wires will be brought into the building Where the owner
directs and the work shall be subject to the inspection of the city electrician. All switches to be. . . .

............................................ with plates to match the hardware. The switches
will be located where the owner directs. Meter to be placed where directed by the owner. Number of

lights; living room .......... , stairs or reception hall .......... , dining room .................... ,
library .................. , kitchen ........................ , den .................. , bed rooms
........................ , second story hall , attic pantry
...................... ,bathroom rear stairs ................,basement
...................... , coalroom , laundry ,
furnace room ........................... All lights not located on the plans 11111 be put where

directed by the owner. First and second story halls to hach -w ay svs 1tches

PLUMBING AND SEWERAGE: ~Contractor to furnish all necessary labor and material to complete
the plumbing and sewerage work in a workmanlike manner ready for use in accordance with plans and

specifications, and according to the rules of the ........................ city ordinance for plumbing

and sewerage. All work to be done to the satisfaction of the ...................... . ............. .

88

SEWERAGEz—Outside sewer pipes to be the size shown on plans of the best salt glazed pipe and
laid with proper fall, all joints to be laid in Portland cement. All sewerage inside of basement to be extra
heavy soil pipe of the size shown. Place trap screws at the foot of all stacks or turns in iron pipe, same
to be on a level with the floors.

CATCH BASIN z—Catch basin to be built where shown on plans of sufficient depth. Inside diameter
not to be less than 2 feet 6 inches, plastered with Portland Cement ............ inch tile neck and

............ cover. Same'to be connected with sewer and to sink waste.

GREASE TRAP .........................................................................
SOIL PIPE :—Soi1 pipe to be standard and extend one foot above roof, flashed with sheet lead.
I

VENTS:——All fixtures to be revented with ................ and taken from soil pipe five feet above
highest fixture or run through roof independent.
TAPS :——
Laundry tubs .......... ; ................................ i .............................

Kitchen sink .........................................................................
Basement sink ......................... c .............................................
Lavatories ...........................................................................
Bath tubs ...........................................................................
Closets to be connected to soil stack with ................................................
WATER SUPPLY :—From water company’s connection at curb line lay into house ..............

...................................... to supply all fixtures and sillcocks.
PIPES :—

Exposed in kitchen ...................................................................
Exposed in basement .......................................

.........................

Pipes in partitions

....................................................................

Exposed in bath room ........................................... i .....................
SOFT WATER-TANK:—

Tank in attic to be ................................ and lined with ....................
Oneinchoverflow.................. .................................... pipe.

Supply fixtures .......................................................................
Connections from overflow and feed to tank to be made with lead pipe and brass solder unions.
Tank to have 1—inch Brass Grate valve on feed pipe.

MOTORz—Place same over sink in basement and connect same with 1—inch lead pipe to cistern,
discharge to be connected to tank in attic. Motor to have by pass, so that closets and city water faucets
may have city water when soft water is shut off. Wash basin and sink to have three faucets.

PRESSURE TANK ............................ ' ..........................................

Remarks ....................................................................................
HOT WATER BOILER IN BASEMENT:—-

Size ................................................................................
Connect with fixtures .................................................................
Connect with coil in ..................................................................

Fixtures as specified and shown.

   
   

KDTCHEH.

l :
FORTE COCXTIRE.
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lzfiz ST 51-on
FLAP-i.

VERAHDA .

 

 

Plan N0. 11

The house and barn as shown were built at a cost
of $12,000. The barn is sided on the outside and the
first floor is of cement. It is 24x28 feet and is parti—
tioned on the inside with board partitions. The house
is modern built, wood frame and veneered with sand—
lime brick, slate roof, cement porch floor. The base—
ment is 8’ high, the first story 990”, second 8’43” and
the third 9’. The first floor is finished in oak, except
the kitchen which, with the rest of the building, is
finished in birch, The third floor is all finished, having
a billiard room and one bed room, with plenty of
closet room. The house is heated with steam heat,
has two mantcls, electric and gas fixtures. Plastered
beamed ceiling in dining room. Hardware is Verde
Antique. Plate and colored glass. The roof over the
porte cochere and porch is covered with best tin.

Complete plans and specifications will be furnished
for 55:25. ()0, for the house only Bill of material, SUM“).
The size of the building is 2(' b ’xl'.” and has all modern
plumbing. c

89

 

 

SEC on D 51'on

PLAN.

 

 

 

 

    
     

CHAMBER- 5

 

CHAHBER- 4-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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clos

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Plan No. 10

The elevation shown is :1 reverse of the floor plans. This is :1 very eosy
house for :1 small family. The. dining room 11nd pztrlor open from the reception
hall, the library can he closed from the parlor by sliding doors. The recep—
tion hall is divided from the parlor by :1 colonnztde. Hot :tir furnace, modern
plumbing: first tloor, except kitchen, finished in oak with oak floors. The
rest of the house is finished in yellow pine. There is :1 small attic with attic
window.

flier/or

Cost of plans coni-plete 315.00. Bill of material $7.00.

First Story Plan

90

  

     
    
    
 

clos.

Chamber

5:719? 160m.

 

Alcovc

..—-.~....
.___.—.

Po rC/7.

Second Story Plan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 9

-\ pressed l>rick veneered residence :113 ft. by 40 ft. Basement R ft.,
first floor 9 ft., second floor 8 ft. in the clear. The basement wall and front
porch are of native stone, (mil the brick of Kulage Brick, Hobert, Indiana.
with Bedforvl sills and jack arches. The den is used for (L family room.
Four large bed rooms and hath on second floor; has stairs to the attic,
which has a matched floor. Shingles dipped in shingle stain. The main
rooms on the first floor are finisherl in oak and the kitchen and second floor
in yellow pine. A good, pleasant home for a family of five or six. The cost
complete for such It home is about $6300. Plans and specifications complete
for $20.00. Bill of material $8.00. Modern plumbing, hot air furnace heat
and brick fireplace.

_\

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SE‘CO/TD STORY FLA/‘1

/ 1
/ \

I \ -
Dining room Kll'clfi eh

Reap. l‘kil l ‘

 

FIRST STORY...»

 

 

 

Plan No. 7

llere is a very convenient house for a small family. Cement block
foundation, 4 in. siding and wood shingle roof. Front porch clear across
the house with square columns. This building is 24 ft. by 30 ft. with a bay
window projection of :2 feet. The house is finished throughout with oak.
There is no waste room and the construction is simple, making the cost
reasonable. The plumbing is modern and a hot air furnace, basement
cemented, woodwork stained and varnished.

Plans for this house complete with specifications, $12.00. Bill of
material $0.00. All of the plans can be reversed if desired.

92

Chamber

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clfidmloer

 

 

 

 

SE C Ofl D STODY.

 

     
   
       
   

   

Porch Enclosed Porch.

    

/ \Pa ni r].
I l

kitchen

Dmmg room

Livmg room

First Story Plan

 

 

 

Plan No. 21

This frame residence is 30 ft. by 232 ft. with living a room, dining room,
library, stair hall, pantry and rear vestibule makes a very well arranged
home. The front porch is 10 ft. wide, basement 7 it. (3 in., first story 9 ft.,
second story 8 ft. Attic stairs and floor. The center hall is closed off by
sliding doors between the hall and the library and hall and living room.
Modern plumbing, hot air furnace, cement floor in basement and an oak
mantel. The building was finished in yellow pine and natural finish for $4.300.

Price of plans and specifications complete $18.00. Bill of material 581%).

93

Tinned roof

Imeh Clos.

Second Story Plan

Chamber

D

Bath room

 

Dining room.

Sii‘lnhg Toom

Po Yc l-x

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 23

The arrangement of this two story house is ditl‘erent from the general
arrangement by having the dining room at the rear and the kitchen at
the side of the building. The foundation wall is of native stone 7 ft. 0 in. in
the clear, first story 9 ft., second story 8 it, the hall and parlor are divided
by a colonnade and the parlor and sitting room by a large opening. The
building was finished in yellow pine throughout and oak floors on the first
story.

Cost $3700, including plumbing and hot air heating. ("ost of plans and
specifications complete $15.00. Bill of material $7.00.

94

Cup’c‘ .

Chamber
Q Roof
Ba l'vroa

amLcr
Chamber CL

C105.

 

 

 

 

Clos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chamber

AlCOVC

 

scab

finncddeck

 

 

 

Second Story Plan

 

KITCHEN .

DH‘IIHG ROOK-

 

First Story Plan

 

 

 

 

Plan N0. 16

The cottage shown is very roomy and is Bl ft. by 38 ft. with :1 10 ft.
front porch. The rooms are good size and convenient. The cellar way is
under the front stairs with :1 grade door. Height of basement 7 ft. 0 in.,
first story 9 in, second story 8 ft., no :tttic. Good plumbing, hot air
furnace. Native stone wall, 4 in, siding, wood shingle roof. Finished in

all yellow pine will cost about $3300.
Plans and specifications complete for $12.00.

Bill of material SGUO.

CHAMBER

CHAMBER-

CHAMBER

 

Roor—.
Second Story Plan

   

Ehlry

   

KllClWElfl

  

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Lava‘lor/

       

  
    
 
  

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Reef). Hall

  
   

Vesi'.

First Story Plan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 41

This well arranged house is 24 ft. wide in front by 88 ft. long. Has
two stairs, front and rear. The sitting room can be closed off from the
dining room and parlor by sliding doors. The lavatory off from the kitchen
is very convenient. Basement 7 ft. 6 in., first floor 9 ft, second 8 ft. Modern
plumbing and hot air furnace. House is finished in yellow pine except hall,
parlor, sitting room and dining room are finished in oak for $4000.

Plans and specifications complete $18.00. Bill of material $8.00.

96

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Clos~ Clas-

Chamber q.
Ba door“

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&.thn 6105'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dawn
Chamber Clrxawxbcr
Clasr clas . Dow
landing
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Chanfilaer
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Second Story Plan

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Plan No. 1

This modern convenient home was designed for the owner and makes
a Very attractive and well arranged home. The reception hall and parlor
are separated by slidingjr doors. The dining room and parlor the same.
From the kitchen you can go to the second floor and also to the basement
with a grade door. .\ refrigerator is built at the rear of the kitchen. The
second story is very nicely arranged. The building is 20 ft. by 32 ft., base—
ment 8 ft., first story El ft, and second 8 ft; attic stairs with floor. House
finished in yellow pine with 2/1.} in. face yellow pine flooring. Native stone
wall, .3 in. siding, shingles stained. Hot air furnace, with modern plumbing.
This house can be built for $3300 complete.

Plans and specifications: t‘t’nllplelc $1.7M). Bill of material $74M.

97

 

Cifiamlscr— 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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First Story Plan

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 71

This building is ‘24 ft. by 32 ft. and very convenient. The stairs from
the reception hall and kitchen have the same landing and then go to the
second floor. The hall on the second floor is short, but opens into Llll the
rooms on the second floor. Ceilings regular height. Cost of building 32000.
Yellow pine finish and floors. Hot nir furnace and good plumbing.

Cost of plans complete $15.00, Bill of material $7.00.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

' Roof
shelvcr
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Second Story Plan

 

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. Plan No. 77

. 7
. . Chamber
T1115 plan shows (L very well arranged house With seven rooms and bath. / clos-

The floor plan is 24 ft. by 232 ft. Height of ceilings, basement, 7 ft. (3 in.,‘first

Chamber.

story, 2) It, and second story, 8 ft. The parlor or living room can be Closed
by sliding doors. The house is finished throughout with yellow pine finish Clafi
and maple floors, refrigerator opening in kitchen, grade door, plenty of
l Closet room. Hot air furnace and modern plumbing and wood mantel.

‘ if (‘oit \\';L\‘ SIMON. (‘ox‘t of plans $13.00. Bill of material SHIN).

l

i

 

 

 

 

F70 ‘rc l '\ ‘ s ‘ ’ i
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fi'l R51“ STOR‘fi g [:::;;: l of 7l
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illicixen Dix-1mg room.

 

 

 

Patriot”

Plan No. 37

This cottage, 2:2 ft. by 28 ft., was built for $1700, with hot air furnace
and plumbing, yellow pine throughout. Ceilings regular height. This
makes :1 very attractive and roomy cottage.

Cost of plans $7.00. Bill of material $5.00.

 

First Story Plan

100

 

 
   

Tuned Porck

 

 

Second Story Plan

Dmmg room

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le‘l'cll’)’

Plan No. 75

this building is 22 ft. by 40 ft. full two stories, basement 7 ft. 6 in.,
first story 9 ft., second story 8 ft., hot air furnace, yellow pine throughout,
.3 in. siding, shingle roof, good plumbing, cement floor in basement, was
built for 32400.

Cost of plans and specifications complete for $13.00. Bill of material
$0.00.

First Story Plan

101

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closcl

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Chamber

 

 

Second Story Plan

     
 
     
     
  

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Bed/700m

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9 #3 "

 

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Plan No. 301 no

A frame rcsixlence with lmtll room 011 the firm llnox‘, the room lllill‘lieLl

 

 

store room on the second floor can alsu be used {Ur (x bath room for the
second floor. Yellow pine trim, hut (lll‘ lwzn 11ml good plumbing, cost Bedvffoom

:1lmut $5000. /2 _9
I

Cost of Plans $15.00.. Bill 01‘111zucriul SUM. /o'- 1'

7%I‘Cfi £00

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TTRST E001? EA/ni Sim/1D 1100]? RAM

  

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First Story Plan

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 30

Size of building Bl ft. by 530 ft., regular height ceilings. Finished in
yellow pine or birch, 3 in. siding, hard wood floors first story and yellow pine
Second story. Hot nir furnace, good plumbing, two coats paint and varnish;

hard plaster. ("an be built for about 33000.
Cost of plans $13.00. Bill of material $6.00.

  

are /7 Woof

  
   

BeiJZioom Bea] 72:00":

a —,,o . . ”XL-l
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Second Story Plan

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Plan No. 112

This frame residence 24x28 feet with £111 8x20 one story part. This is

3 very convenient and easy to build residence. with It good stair hall. The

stairs to the basement go from the kitchen and have :1 grade door. The
second floor has three bed rooms, bath room and sewing room, with :Lttie
stairs. Front porch 10 feet wide, rezir porch 7x8 feet. Yellow pine finish,
dining room, living room and hall floors to be oak. lIot :Lir furnace, modern
plumbing. Cost about $3000.00.

(‘ost of plans $13.00. Bill of material $0.00.

104

SECOND
FLOOR

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B? 7/2,
é $0.,
Bc’c/ é’oom 7" 320’ Room
7;” PC a '

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7 Plan N 0 78 , ,4
* ‘- The floor plans and perspective of plan No. TS is a modern house with a
large living room and dining room. The second llumr is well arranged and a
1”.”sz wr nv 0,».7nomw gr , , . . e . .
Sngfgnsxffv'fw Iw-a very large atue. flie first floor, except the kitchen, is hnlSllCd in oak and
‘4 sLained, second floor in gum wood enameled and stained. Hot air furnace, _,__v, ,7” ,i,
First Story Plan modern plumbing. This house can be built for $4500.
Second Story Plan

(£051. of plans $20.00 Bill of material $10.00.

105

   
      
 

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First Story Plan

 

 

Plan No. 34

A very convenient and well arranged house.

basement floor. Cost $3500.
Cost of plans $15.00. Bill of material $7.00

 

 

Direct entrance from
the kitchen to the dining room and sliding doors to the living room, seat in
stair hall, grade door, hall closet, no waste room on the second floor and a
small hallway with attic stairs. Size of building, 28 ft. by 32 ft., yellow
pine or birch finish, hard wood floors, hot air furnace, good plumbing, cement

   
  

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Second Story Plan

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First Story Plan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 35

This cottage," .fl ’.ft by 30 ft. ,plastered outside or sided, hot air furnace,

good plumbin
Good room in the attic.
9 ft., second 8 ft.

Cost of plans complete with specifications $10.00. Bill of material 36.00.

g, yellow pine finish and floors, can be built for about $2200.
Height of ceilings, basement, 7 ft. (3 in., first story

107

 

 

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Second Story Plan

WEST ° 3:

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T‘RONT ELEVATION

Plan No. 115

This building is Zlei feet on the first floor, the rear part is only one
stnry with (1 bztth rumn under the roof. The bed room shown on the first
Iluur can be used for :1 library. The stairs to the second floor LlI‘C very eon—
\'enient {ruin the liitehen and living room. The eellztr stairs are under the
IIILIlIl stztirs with :1 grade damn The seennd tluor lltlS three bed routns with
wind elusets tn ezte i, also :1 hull eloset, :tttie stztirs Lllltl bath room. The
eust. if tinished in yellow pine, will be ubuut Sllmlllltl, including steam
heztt Lind ntndern plumbing.

t‘ost ut’ plans 5113M). Bill wt ntuteriul $7.00.

108

 

 

 

 

 

 

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5,
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Eric/~11” ELEVATzon.

     
    
    
 
   
 

Porck

  

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clo: .

Luring Y'oorrx

 

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Plan No. 14

This bungalow, 30 ft. by 534 ft., plas-
tered on the outside, oak finish and
floors, wood shingles, hot air furnace
and good plumbing, can be built for
about 83500. Cement lmsemem floor.

Cost of plans complete 81.3.00. Bi“
of material $7.00.

109

SIDE ELEVATLQ/I.

Cixamlae/ . Ckamlcae‘r’f

 

firm: or”: STORY RAN .

 

 

C rade D00 r

 

 

 

SCe?

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Km: HEN a ' 'n
PORCH W'x13'~c" 0 . g
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BED Room
/5 ’ x Is'

  
 
 

Ltvme Room DU‘HNGPOOM
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SECOND é _
~ _

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LIBRARY

 

 

lé'XIs’ HALL ' TTQO/‘IT ELEVATION.
v" Plan No. 122

A two story frame or plastered house mix—l4 feet on the ground. The . _...
first floor contains a stair hall, library, living room, dining room, toilet room, . H
entry and kitchen, a large front poreh, small side and rear porches. The ‘
dining room is divided from the living room by sliding doors and a eolonnade
‘ PORCH between the liying room and library, also sliding doors between the stair

hall and the library. The second floor has three large bed rooms, bath
l‘unll‘l, sewing room, three elosets, one for each bed room, and one hall closet.

The balcony on the rear makes a very convenient place for airing
‘ bedding. This house, finished in yellow pine, will cost about $4300.00

7 in oak, about $400.00 more, including steam heat and modern plumbing. /

fiR ST FLOOR (‘ost of plans $18.00. Bill of material $8.00.
TEA/1

  

~li’oor OVerPOTx’C H

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

110

 

 

 

BATH Rm.

Dmmc Room.

CHAMBER

 

Plan No. 46

This cottage is 26 ft. by 20 ft. with two bed rooms on Lhc second floor
and one on the firSL. Hot air furnace and plumbing, yellow pinc finish,
can be lmxlt for 51800.

Cost of plans Unllplclc 557 00. Bill Hf material 255.00.

CHAHBER. close‘l. -

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

F' S Pl Second Story Plan
Irst tory an

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First Story Plan

    
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 81

A. very well arranged cottage with hot air furnace
Size 2-1; ft. by 36 ft, half pitch roof, hard wood finish and floors, can be

lmih for $2400

Cost of plans complete $1.1m. Bill of material $7.00.

112

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Second Story Plan

 

 

 

    

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Plan No. 59

This cottage, 24 ft. by 30 ft., with one bed room on the first floor and
three on the second is very well arranged, with hot air furnace, good plumbing,
yellow pine finish, regular height ceilings, wood siding and shingles. Can be
built for about 32200.

Cost of plans complete $12.00. Bill of material $0.00

113

  

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FRO/1T ELEVATION

Plan No. 121

This five room cottage is 22x28 feet beside the porches. The front
porch is 9 feet Wide and the rear porch 0x10 feet. The second floor has two
good bed rooms, bath room and three closets. The chimney in this building
is located so that stoves can he used, if desired, instead of a furnace.
The stairs to the second floor from the stair hall and the stairs to the. cellar
from the kitchen with a grade door. Yellow pine finish and floors, hot air
furnace and good plumbing. The house will cost about $1800.00.

Cost of plans $10.00. Bill of material $5.00.

114

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Plan No. 120

A eottage 32mm feet with a reeeption hall, living room, dining room
and kitchen on the first floor, two good bed rooms, bath room and plenty of
740er eloset room on the second floor. The stairs to the second floor start BEDROOM
from the reception hall, and the eellar stairs from the kitehen are under the
front stairs with a grade door. .\ 9 foot poreh in front and a tixltl foot in

/3'1/1/'

   
  
   
 
 
 

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the rear. This building, finished in yellow pine with yellow pine floors,
hot air furnace and goovl plumbing, can he l)l.lllt for about $2200.00.

(‘ost of plans $121M), Bill of material SHIN)

Pore r1

 

 

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Plan No. 118

-\ ~1nall, four room frame residence, 10 feet, wide by 3'.) feet long. The
fi‘st floor has a living room 11x13 feet, kitchen 11x15, a closed stairwzzy
from the living room to the second floor and to the basement from the
kitchen with a grade door. An 8 foot front porch and a 7x12 rear porch.
The second floor has two bed rooms with two large, closets. This house,
finished in yellow pine, can be built for about $1400.00ine1uding furnace.

(‘ost of plans 558.00. Bill of material $4.00.

Pom: H

 
 
  

 

 

SECOND E001? EA”

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Plan No. 1B

This and the next two pages show plans complete of a frame building
showing the basement, roof, first and second story plans, the four elevations
and detail drawings. On the first floor there is a living room, dining room,
kitchen, pantry, stair hall and den, which can be used as a bed room. Second
story four bed rooms with plenty of closets and bath room. Two stairways
to second floor. This is finished in yellow pine. Can be built for 2154200,
Hot air furnace and good plumbing.

Cost of plans complete in % in. scale $5.00., in M in. scale $12.00.
Bill of material $6.00.

 

    
    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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119

  

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Plan No. 56

Here is a very well arranged house, with a large
livingr room. All rooms are well ventilated; finished in
yellow pine or birch. Hot air furnace 21ml good
plumbing.

Bill of material

Cost of plans complete $8.00.
$5.00.

Cost of building $3200.

 

 

 

  

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Plan No. 65

A cheap and attractive cottage 22 ft. by ‘28 It, finished in yellow pine
or birch, hot air furnace, good plumbing, regular height ceilings, frame
building, wood shingles, grade doors. Can he lmilt for $1800.

Cost of plans complete $7.00. Bill of IllillCI‘lZil $3.00;

 

 

 

 

 

 

        

 

 

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121

Plan No. 13

.»\ lmusc 21 ft. by 3:: ft. for $2600. Yellmx‘ pine linisll, hot air
furnace, gmul plumbing; _
Cost of plans $6.00, complete. Blll of material $4.00.

 

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122

Plan NO. 64
Anuthor very cnnwnient and attractive cottage :4 ft. by :26 ft. for
$2200. Yellow pine, hot air furnace and good plumbing.
Cost of plans complete $7.00. Bill of material $4.00.

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Plan No. 63

A two story frame, regular height ceilings, hot air furnace, good plumb-
ing, first story 011k, second birch, for $3800.
Cost of plans 3,511.00. Bill of material $5.00.

 
 

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124

 

 

 

FRONT ELEVATION.

PLAN HQ- 63.

Plan No. 82

House 0... ft. by 26 ft. for $3500, hot air furnace, good plumbing, brick
veneered building, yellow pine or birch finish.

(‘ost of plans complete S12”). Bill of material $5.00.

 

   
 
  

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Plan N o. 103

The main part of this building is 26x32 feet. On the first floor there
is a large living room 14x20 feet, dining room 13x10 feet, kitchen 11x16 feet,
entry 5_1-_§x7 feet, a 10 foot porch in front and a 0 foot at the rear. The
stairs to the second floor is open in the living room, with stairs to the base-
ment underneath, also grade door The second floor has three good bed
rooms with a closet to each room, also a. Closet from the bath room. Attic
stairs can be had from this closet. This house can be built for $3200.00,
finished in yellow pine and oak floor in the living and dining room; this
includes hot air furnace and modern plumbing.

("0st of plans $14.00. Bill of material $7.00.

126

 

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fizonr ELEVATION

Plan No. 102

Here is it six room house with :1 reception stair hall and a rear stairway
from the kitchen, which lands on :1 platform within six risers of the second
lloorlevel. 'The lunlding isilflx35 feet “ith u 10 foot porch the fun “idth
of the front and a six foot porch on the rear. The first floor has a living
1' mm 15x18 feet, dining room 13x15 with sliding doors between, the kitchen
i ; 10x18 feet with an entry 7x8 feet, plenty large for an ice box and cupboard.
The second floor has two large bed rooms and one smaller one. The smallest
one being 10x10 feet, bath room 7x8 feet, closet to each bed room and a
large hall closet, also passageway to rear balcony. Regular height of ceiling,
\x'itli ;;()(wl l>ZlS(?IY]€Ill (lIltl Illll(‘, l](>l :uir ftiriizti-c :tritl Illt)1l(‘r11 I)ltiiiil>iri;{ f(>r
$4200.00.

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fiomT ELEVATION.

Plan No. 119

Another small house 10x32 feet. This plan has three rooms on the
first floor, living room 11x12, dining room 10x13, kitchen 85x15 feet,
stairs are boxed and start from the livingr room, cellar stairs start: from the
liitehen and have a grade door. The front porch is 8 feet wide and the
rear 5x8 feet. The second tloor has two large bed rooms, bath room and
two good closets. Yellow pine finish throughout. Hot air furnace and
plumbing for about “52000.00.

Cost of nlans $10.00. Bill of material $3.00.

\

128

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Plan No. 104

.\ modern six room house, bath and sewing room and stair hall. The
first floor has a large living room, 14x23 feet, dining room 12x15 feet, kitchen
14x14 feet, a rear entry 513x54 feet, a l0 foot porch in front and a 0 foot
at the rear, a rear stairs to the basement with grade door and one to the
second floor. The front stairs have a closet underneath. The stairs to the
attic go up over the rear stairway. ()n the second floor there are three good
bed rooms, hath room and a sewing room 7x7 feet, good closets to each
bed room and one hall closet, a rear door to balcony. The main house is
24x39 feet with a BXH') foot addition. Cost in yellow pine finish $3800.00,
Living room, dining room and stair hall on first floor to have oak floors
and stairs. '

("ost of plans $16.00. Bill of material $8.00.

c

129

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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T ELEVATION

Plan No. 101

A well arranged six room and bath with a large attic. The dining
room has a direct door to the kitchen. The stairs to the second floor and
basement are located between the kitchen and living room, which also
serves as a passageway from the kitchen to the living room without going
through the dining room. A large closet with each bed room; there is no
waste room. The living room is 23x13 feet, dining room 12x17 feet, and the
kitchen 101/ng feet. The main part of the building is 24x32 feet, full
two story. First story 9 feet, second 8 feet, basement 7,11; feet. (‘omplctc
in yellow pine finish $3000.00, including plumbing and hot air furnace.

Plans and specifications $14.00. Bill of material $0.00.

130

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Plan No. 113

This frame building 24x31} feet, two story, attic and cellar. The first

floor contains three good rooms with stair hall, the basement Stairs are!

under the front stairs with a grade door. 8 foot front porch, 0 foot rear.
The second floor has four herl rooms, bath room and closets, the attic stairs
will go up from the front bed room. Finished in yellow pine this house
can he built for SQUUUXH), including hot air furnave and plumbing.

Cost of plans $12.()(), Bill of material Stitl'l.

Plans will he reverse/l or marle for brick veneer or plaster.

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Plan No. 126

An eight room house Very convenientlv arranged and planned so that
the timbers will cut to an ad 'antage without any waste. The living room
is separated from the stair hall and dining room by sliding doors. The
stairs to the second floor are easily accessible from the kitchen. The stairs
to the cellarare under the It]:ti1‘._:~‘1:li1‘5 with a grade door, a good sized pantry,
with ice box, so that it can be filled from the rear porch, The second floor
has: four bed rooms and bath room, closets and an attic stairway. The main
part of the building is sided and the gables rough cast plaster. This building,
finished in yellow pine, hot air furnace and modern plumbing, can be built

for about tsfii.‘%tl0.ti(l; finished in oak SSTWLUU.

(‘ost of plans 9513.00 Hill of material $7.1m.

132

 

 

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Plan No. 125

This five room cottage 22x32 feet, ll foot posts, 8 {out frnnt porch,
(5x10 foot rear purch, basement 7 feet, first story 9 feet, second story 3 feet,
shingle roof, basswood Siding, yellow pine finish thrrmghout, czm he built

for about $1400.00
mum and kitchen.
of vloseta

The first floor contains at stair hull, living rrwm, (lining
The second floor, two bed moms, bath romu and plenty

C0>t of plant: 5510.0”. Bill of material S-LUU.

133

    
     

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Plan No. 123

.\ very attractive and well arranged six room cottage. The first floor
contains a hall vestibule, parlor, dining room, kitchen, pantry and two
closets. The size of the building is 213x330 feet. The second floor has three
good sized bed rooms with plenty of closet room and a good bath room.
The stairs to the second floor start from the dining room and the cellar
stairs from the kitchen with a grade door. The front porch is 10 feet wide.
and the rear 7x12 feet. \\'ith yellow pine tinish, except the first tloor hall,
parlor and dining room, which will be finished in oak, includingr the Iloors,
will cost about $2800.00 including“r hot air furnace and modern plumbing.

Cost. of plans $14.00. Bill of material $6.00.

134

Charmaine?

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Plan No. 132

A five room cottage 32x32 feet, with large living room the Whole Width
of the building, good sized dining room and kitchen, the second floor has
,x ’ two bed rooms, bath room and good closets The stairs to the second
floor are closed with a door from the dining room. Stairs to the basement
are under the main stairs with a grade door. Stone foundation, frame house
and finished in yellow pine with yellow pine floors will cost about $2100.00,
including hot air furnace and good plumbing.

Cost of plans $10.00 Bill of materials $5.00.
Unless otherwise specified the height of the ceilings are in the clear.
Basement 7 feet 8 inches, first floor 9 feet, second floor 8 feet.

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Plan No. 133

Another cottage 24x30 feet with one bed room on the first floor and
two on the second floor with :1 closet for each bed room and one in the hall
on the second floor, also one for the livingr room. The stairs are about
the same as for plan No. 132. Stone wall or cement blocks, The house is
sided up to the gables and the gables are rough cast plaster. L‘Ost with
yellow pine finish $2300.00, including hot air furnace and good plumbing.

Cost of plans $11.00. Bill of materials $5.00

All plans can be reversed.

136

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

  
 

 

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Plan No. 127

A frame house 32 feet square with a living room 15x22 feet, dining
room 12x13 feet, kitchen 12x11 feet, entry (3x8 feet, a good stair hall and a
small hall between the living room and kitchen The stairs to the secor’d
story start from the stair hall and also the kitchen. They both come on
the same landing fiye risers from the second floor. The cellar stairs go
down from the small hall, with a grade door, which makes it convenient for
a side entrance. The stairs to the attic start over the kitchen stairs. The
second floor has three bed rooms with a good closet to each room, also a
hall closet and a bath room. The front porch is 10 feet Wide and the rear
platform (“m8 feet. This building, finished in yellow pine or birch, including
steam heat and modern plumbing, for about $3800.00. ()ak $400.00 more.

Cost of plans, 81mm. Bill of materials, $7.00.

137

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fiO/VT ELEVATION.

Plan No. 134

A six room cottage 25x28 feet with a 10 foot iront porch and an 8 toot
in the rear. The first floor has a large living room with a mantle, a small
vestibule in front, the dining room is also in the front of the building, with
a pantry between it and the kitchen, the rear pantry is plent§r large for an
ice box. The second story has tWo large bed rooms and one smaller one
with Closets to all of them. The stairs to the second floor start from the
living room and the inside cellar stairs are under it. The. outside cellar
stairs have a grade door. This building, finished in yellow pine or birch,
hot air furnace and good plumbing, outside veneered with paving brick,
can be built for about $2500.00.

Cost of plans $12.00 Bill of materials 356.00.

138

BED Room

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.\ tun >tor_\' and basement frame residence 34x53” feet, front porch H lt‘t‘l wide and extends lU feet
to the side of the building, the rear porch is (SXT l‘eeti
dining room, kitrxhen and pantry, the second floor has four bed rooms, but one of them run lie used
{or :1 bath room. The stairs to the set-ond floor are open and start in the reeeption hall, the cellar
stairs are under it with :1 grade door; the attic stairs are over the lower stairs.

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Plan No. 155

 

The first floor has it reception hall, living room,

in yellow pine or lrirch, hot air furnace and good plumbing, for about 82500.0().
(let wfp11m< $113.00. Bill of materiak 36.00.

The building, finished

STORY PEA/1

139

 

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Plan No. 110

A 53500 frame residence 24x35 feet. 10 foot front porch, ti foot rear.
The size of the rooms are all marked on the floor plans. Only one flight of
stairs from the first to the second story, but the stairs are very convenient
to all of the rooms. The basement stairs are under the main stairs, with a
grade door, also making it convenient to go to the kitchen without going
round to the rear porch. .\ good pantry between the kitchen and dining
room. The second floor has four bed rooms and a bath, closet to each room,
and an attic stairs. 10 foot porch in from and (3 at the rear. Yellow pine
finish, all except dining room, living room and reception hall, which will be
oak, hot air heating and modern bath. Cost about $3500.00.

Cost of plans $14.00. Bill of material $0.00.

140

 

 

 

 

  
   
   

 

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Plan No. 114

This well arranged house has four rooms on the first floor including a
stair hall. The cellar stairs from the kitchen have a grade door, making it
very convenient to get to the cellar from the outside. The second floor has
three bed rooms, bath room, Closet to each bed room, also a hall closet.
Finished in yellow pine except living room, dining room, parlor and stair
hall, including front stairs. Cost 333500.00, including hot air furnace and
plumbing.

(‘ost of plans $14.00. Bill of material $6.00.

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141

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Plan No. 106

A frame brick veneered two story and basement.
The front porch is 10 feet wide

The building is

28x28 feet with a 14x18 rear addition.
The dimensions of the rooms are shown on the

and the rear one (3 feet.

floor plans, four good bed rooms and bath on the second floor. Only one
flight of stairs to the second floor and that is from the reception hall. The
stairs to the basement are under the main stairs with :1 grade door. There
is a good attic with dormer window. The attic stairs go up over the main
Yellow pine finish throughout, except the reception hall, living

stairs.
Porches have wood railing, bulusters

and dining rooms which will be oak.
11nd columns. (‘ost of building $4100.00, including,r stemn heut and plumbing.

(‘ost of plans $10.00. Bill of material $7.00

142

 

 
   
   
 

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Plan No. 107

A modern frame building with a large living room, (lining room and
kitchen on the first floor, good pantry. Main stairs are open to the living
room, having three risers to the first platform. The stairs can also he reached
from the kitchen to the first landing. The fireplace and beamed ceiling in
the living room make it a very pleasant room. The second floor has three
good bed rooms with bath, hall closet and attic stairs. Each bed room has
a closet. Slate roof, yellow pine finish, except living and dining rooms,
which will be oak, steam or hot water heat for $4200.00. A very good plan
for a family of five or six.

Cost of plans 31.9.00. Bill of‘matcrial $7.00.

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Plan No. 108

A frame building 3);) feet frontage, 28 feet back with an 18x8 foot one
story addition.
sized diningr room and pantry between diningr room and kitchen. The

The livingr room is 14x20 feet with mantle in corner, good

stair hall can be entered from the kitchen without going through the dining
room, sliding doors between the dining“r room and living room, also between
the stair hall and livingr room.
stairs have a grade door.
large closet to each bed room and linen closet in hall.

The stairs to the basement under the main
The second floor has four bed rooms, bath room,
Steam heat, modern
plumbing, yellow pine finish, except living room, dining room and stair
hall. l’oreh in front lt) feet wide by 2% feet long. Rear porch tlxx feet,
entry (3x7 feet. Good attic floor. (‘ost about $rl.’)t)t).()()~

(‘ost of plans 25518.0(). Bill of material $71“).

144'

 

 

 

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Plan N0. 111

_\ modern frame residenu', 2%” find tronttge,

23 feet deep “ith 2t 1'.\‘_’ \'
toot one story addition. The diningr room and living room are divided bV
The size of the rooms is marked on the floor plans.
The main stairs can be reached from the kitchen by three risers to the first
platfornr Stairs to the basement are under the main stairs, The front
porch is 10 feet wide and the rear (3x6 feet. The second floor has three
good bed rooms, bath room, closet to each bed room and one linen closet,
stairs to :tttiti. Common finish, hot air furnace, modern plumbing, two
voztis of paint. (‘ost about SilHUlJ.(l()

(‘HSI HT plans SIT.()(T.

 

Bill of Inziterizd $7.4m.

145

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Plan No. 105

No. 105 shows a brick building 332 feet frontage by 30 feet in width.
two story and basement. The first floor contains a reception hall 13x15
feet, vestibule, two living rooms, dining room and kitchen. The second
lloor, three bed rooms, bath room and sewing room, with closets for all
rooms. The kitchen is only one story and has a balcony over it. The front
porch is 10 feet wide by 29 feet long, cut stone caps and railing. ‘ The stairs
start from the reception hall and dining room onto a platform and then
continue as one flight of stairs. The cellar stairs from the kitchen go to a
landing which has a grade door, then to the cellar. Plans are made for frame,
brick, brick veneer, or plaster, as the owner chooses. First floor finished
in oak except kitchen. The rest in yellow pine. Cost about $4200.00.

Cost of plans $18.00. Bill of material $7.00.

146

 

 

 

 

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Plan No. 131

i\n eight room house 23(3xtH feet, brick veneered with paving brick,
slate or asbestos shingles, stone foundation, steam heat, modern plumbing,
plate glass in front, oak finish on the first floor, except the kitchen; second
floor yellow pine. Cost about $5000.00. The first floor contains a livingr
room, reception hall divided by a colonnade, sliding doors between the livingr
room and dining room, pantry between the dining room and kitchen. The
stairs to the second floor start in the reception hall but can be reached from
the kitchen by going through a closet, the stairs to the basement are under
the main stairs with a grade door. The second floor has four good sized
bed rooms with a closet to each room, also a hall closet, a bath room and
a balcony open from the bath room,

Cost Of plans $18.00. Bill of materials 57 ()0.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Plan No. 124

A $5500.00 frame or plastered residence. The building is 2(3x5i3 feet.
Two stories, basement and attic. The first floor contains a large reception
hall, vestibule, closet and open stairs. The parlor is divided from the stair
hall by sliding doors, the parlor and living room are divided by a colonnade
with a sliding door between the living room and dining room. The front
stairs to\the second floor have a closet under the same, the rear stairs to the
second floor are over the cellar stairs, the cellar stairs have a grade door.

The front porch is 10 feet Wide, the rear porch 7x10 feet. The second floor

has four large bed rooms with a large, closet for each room, a modern hath
room, attic stairs, door to halcony. Slate roof, steam heat; dining room,
living room, reception hall and parlor finished in oak, including the floors,
the rest of the house finished in yellow pine or hirch.

Cost of plans $20.00. Bill of material $0.00.

148

  
 

    

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Plan No. 130

A 3110(101‘11 seven room house 28x5“! feet, two 51(11‘}' and basement. The
first floor contains a living room, dining room, kitchen, entry and stairhall;
the second floor four hetl rooms with a closet to each room and a bath room.
The stairs to the second floor can lye reached from the front ~\‘tair hall antl
also from the kitchen. The front porch is It.) feet wide and is lwuilt of cement
concrete. Finished in yellow pine except the-living room, dining I‘HHIH.
stairs anrl stair hall which will he oak, will cost about SSHUUXN),including
hot air heat anrl good plumbing.

Cost of plans $141M Bill of materials 550.00.

149

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Plan No. 128 and 129

The front elevation shown on this page can be used for tloor plans
Nos. 128 and 129. Plan 12\‘ is 23x11 feet with livingr room, diningr room
and kitchen on one side and two bed rooms, bath room, vestibule pantry,
closets and cellar stairs on the other side. The cellar wa_v has a grade door.
The front porch is 10 feet wide and the rear porch 0x8 feet. This building,
finished in yellow pine or birch, hot air heating and good plumbing, will
cost about $2300.00.

Cost of plans 5512.00. Bill of material $3.00.

Floor plan No. 129 is 2th.33 feet and has three bed rooms, elosets and
bath, pantry between kitchen and diningT 1'( 10111. This floor plan can be used
with the elevation shown, and finished in yellow pine or birch will cost
about 532700.00.

Cost of plans $123.00. Bill of materials $5.00.

150

  

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Plan No. 116

The iirnt floor plan of this brick building is 38x34 feet with a 10 foot
front porch in front the full wivlth of the house, the rear porch is under the
betl room. The «lining room and reception hall have a colonnade between
them and a large opening between the reception hall and living room. Stairs
to the second floor starts from the dining room, the cellar Stairs from the
kitchen. The building, using common brick for face brick, yellow pine
trim exeept dining room, reception hall [U141 living room, which are oak, will
cmt about $1300.00,including steztm heat and modern plumbing. The
>econnl floor has four bell rooms, bath room and a good closet with each
be<l room,

Cost of plans $17.00. Bill of materials $8.00.

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Plan No. 142

.\ fi‘zmlc bunvzilmv 373 feet frunt, 30 fvct (Ice'v “nod 511i.1q]c< \'(‘le\\'
o / j , ‘ , ,

pine finish, hm: 1151' filmuvc, :mul plumbing, 1U 13m: purch in from, (3);]:
feat in The rear, cement fnundmium will wst ulmut 532200.00 with cellar

under the Whole 11mm: and $21)!) 0!) lesx' Without b:1<1’111011t.

(‘nst Hf plzms 91000. Bil] «fmlecrinls $5.00

   

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Plan No. 137

A two story frame with basement and attic. This
house can also be plastered with cement. The house has a
frontage of 45 feet and 40 feet deep. ()n the first floor
there is a reception hall, living room, dining room, library,
kitchen, pantry, maids room, screened court and basement.
On the second floor we have five bed rooms, bath room and
plenty of closets. This house finished in yellow pine, except
the living room, reception hall, dining room, library and
main stars, which will be finished in oak, steam heat and
modern plumbing, can be built for about 86000 ()0.

Cost of plans $25.00. Bill of materials 812,00.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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DOUBLE HOUSES AND FLATS

RANGING IN PRICE FROM THREE—THOUSAND TO
EIGHT-THOUSAND DOLLARS. IF YOU
DO NOT FIND ONE TO SUIT
YOU, WRITE TO US
AND

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Plan No. 170

.\ fuur fiat brick or cement block building 40 feet Wide and (31 feet 101ng
live rooms to each flat with bath and closely This building finished in
oak with oak floors, steam heat, modern pluinhing,ce1ncnt stepaporchfloors
and cellar floors, Lin roof The front porch and rear porch are each 10 feet
wide. (‘05: nf the building will be about 38300.0().

(‘mt Hf plans $33.0” Bill of materials $7121”).

 

 

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Plan No. 169

.\ twn story douhle frunte lIUttSC with six rmmts UH C(tCll side, three
t‘ntmts 0n the first floor and three lied rntuns, httth :tnd elusets on the seeond
tltmr, lxztsenlent under the whole house. Cement fmundutiun walls and
eellur tloors, wood shingle rtmf. Finished in yellow pine, except the living
mum, dining ruum :tnd hztll which will he finished in 0111;. [lot air fttrnztees
:tnd mmlern plumhing. t‘mst of litiilding about $5000.00. \Vidth 34 feet,
depth ~12 It

Cost mt plans $13.00. Bill ut‘ nmteriuls $10.00.

   
 
 

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Plan No. 167

A cement plastered bungalow with cobble stone foundation wall. The
plan shows a brick wall about five feet high and then plastered, the piers
are also brick. \Vith cellar under the whole house, cement wall l:>a:<ement,
floor and outside steps. Building trimmed with Bedford stone. The heating
to be Steam, with modern plumbing, finished in oak, for about $5200.00.

Cost of plans S2100. Bill of materials $11.00.

157

A TWO~HOUSE TERRA Cl:

 

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Plan No. 164

A one story double flat with four rooms on each Side and a bath. “'ith
a flat gravel roof or a cement roof, either cement blocks or brick for the
outside, cement porches and steps, cellar under the whole house,with cement
walls and floors. This building finished in yellow pine throughout, including
the floors, can he built for about $2900.00 Building 43 feet wide lw 2.3
feet deep. Cost includes plumbing and heating.

Cost of plans: $14.00 Bill of materials 537.00.

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159

    

T EVAT l O/‘l

Plan No. 165

Another double flat 33.3 feet frontage and 37 feet deep. Cement block
or brick on the outside, wood shingle roof, cement cellar under the Whole
house with cement floor. This building, finished in yellow pine, except the
living room and dining room, which will be finished in oak, hot air furnace
and good plumbing, can be built for about $4000.00.

Cost of plans SISMU. Bill of materials $7.0M

TWO~HOUSEZ TERRACE

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Plan No. 166

A cement flat with cement mot, cement ftmntltttion 11nd cellar floor,
the outside either solitl cement or cement blocks; porches and steps littilt
Hf cement. This hnttse, finished with yellow pine or birch, except the tltmrs
nf the living want and dining room, which will he 0:11;, hot illl‘ furnaces and
gnwl plumbing, C1111 lw lmilt le‘ :tlmttt NWUKMN).

(\xx‘t ut‘ plans $2lHlt). Bill (if mntct‘ittls SllHH).

160

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Plan No. 162

Thi>~ brick veneered double house was built for $47M), using commnn
('liiL~zigu 1))1‘lk‘k laid in black colored mortar, The building is 537 ft. wide by
‘/ zilunii 1.4 ill lung, finished in yellow pine, grml plumbing (lllKl lior air fiirnzu-c,

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(‘nst ()1~ plans $15.1“). Bill Hf material STIR).

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Plan No. 161 or 3

The floor plan shown here is the first story plan of a double frame hnusc,
the second floor is practically the same as the first floor with stairs to the
attic; the building is about 30 by (30 feet. Cost about $6500.

Cost of plans 3520.00. Bill of material $10.00.

162

 

Plan No. 68

This shoWs floor plans of a double house 4-1 ft. by 45 ft., two full stories
and basement. Hot air furnaces, wood mantels, good plumbing, finished
in yellow pine throughout, shingle roofs, cement floors in basement, 4 in
siding, two coats of paint, double strength and plate glass. Can be built
Complete for $4500.

Cost of plans $20.00, complete with specifications. Bill of material $8.00.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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163

Plan No. 9

This plan shows floor plans of a double house of 6 rooms on each side
with reception hall, bath room and plenty of closet room.

The porches are separated from each other. This house, with a %
pitch hip roof, frame building, oak floors on first floor and yellow pine
on second, hot air furnace and plumbing, wood mantel, ceilings regular
height, for $5000. The building is 45 ft. square.

Cost of plans $20.00 Bill of material $l0.00.

 

 

 

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164

CEMENT CONCRETE WORK

GIVING A DESCRIPTION OF HOW TO DO CEMENT CONCRETE WORK

Cement concrete is manufactured stone formed by mixing cement, sand and
gravel or crushed rock together. The proportions of each ingredient depend upon
the use to which the concrete is put The proportion of the mixture also depends
largely on the quality of sand and gravel; it should be so proportioned that the sand
\\ ill fill all void spaces betw een the gravel or stone, and the cement fill all voids between
the sand.

CONCRETE AS A BUILDING MATERIAL.

Cement concrete as a material of which houses are built is becoming more widely
used each year. It is recognized as a more duiable material than wood or even
masonry and gives promise C’of being more extensivelv used than the other and older
materials

Many are under the impression that “the house beautiful" cannot be built of
concrete. However, the greatest beauty of a building lies in the gracefulness and
proportioning of its lines and in its simplicity of construction. Concrete is adaptable
to any form or shape of house because of its plastic state when it is applied. It is
simple in its construction and needs neither paint nor ornament to make it pleasing
to the eye. If ornamental shapes are desired, the concrete can be molded into any
desirable form.

One great advantage of concrete construction is the durability of the concrete.
A house so constructed needs no repairing and will stand for ages.

A frame house will decay and after a few years will need yearly repairs. A stone
or brick house will stand a much longer time but sooner or later the effect of the
winds and rains will be to cause the mortar to decay and crumble and the walls to
become weak. Finally they must be torn down or they will fall. Concrete only
mproves with age. The longer it stands the harder it becomes.

Concrete rightly made is fireproof: it may be made waterproof: it is a poor
conductor ofheat and. COltl,SO makes for greater equity of temperature both summer
and winter; it is vermin—proof which makes it a very valuable material about the farm.

Concrete is somewhat costlier than frame. However, it is only the first cost
that is greater. “'hen one takes into consideration the cost of repairs on a frame
building he soon comes to the conclusion that in a very few years it becomes a larger
sum than the difference in the original costs of the two materials of construction.
It can readily be seen that when we figure time and durability as a factor the concrete
house is really the cheaper of the two.

Concrete has been successfully used in the construction of residences, factories,
office buildings and all manner of farm buildings. In Short it may be used in almost

165

any conceivable structure where strength and durability are required. Bridges,
tunnels, water towers, dams and in fact all structures required to withstand great
forces have been successfully built of concrete.

There are two kinds of cement in use—Portland and Natural. Natural cement
is cement made from material as it is taken from the ground without reproportioning.
It is burned at a fairly low temperature. Portland Cement is made from practically
the same material proportioned so as to make the greatest strength. It is burned
at a very high temperature. It is much heavier than Natural cement. It is,
therefore, readily seen that Portland cement should be used where great strength
is required.

Concrete houses are not damp. It is usual to allow for an air space either Within
the wall or between the wall and the plastering. If the wall is made of solid concrete
it should have furring on the inside as is explained in another part of the book. It
may also be subjectebd to a coat of water— proofing. Even though a house is built
of hollow walls it is a good plan to coat it with nater— proofing and thus prevent all
moisture from entering the concrete. If a concrete house is properly built it is as
dry as a house built of3 any material.

(oncrete may be colored by means of mineral pigments. These pigments should
be in powdered form and should be mixed with the dry cement before it is mixed
with the sand. The shade of the color w ill depend upon the proportions used when
mixmg.

For black or gray, use lamp-black; for brown use burnt umber;
use yellow—ochre; for red use venetian red; for blue use ultramarine;
a mixture of blue and yellow.

for yellow
for green use

CONCRETE AS AN INVALUABLE MATERIAL
FOR BUILDING PURPOSES

The farmer can make permanent improvements with cement;
which, considering their endurance, are very reasonable 111 cost.

THE ADVANTAGE OF CONCRETE OVER OTHER MATERIALS AS A FARM
NECESSITY:WThe farmer can do his own concrete \\ ork with but little help thus
saving expense. A tank or building once completed needs no repairing painting
or ov erhauling as frame structures do. Fence posts of concrete do not rot off at the
ground, nor do they burn with a grass fire, nor can they be easily broken if properly
reinforced. One should decide that the location of a building is final before he builds
it of concrete because a building of such construction is permanent in location as
well as durable in make—up.

improvements

The farmer with his buildings all constructed of concrete has a place to attract
the eye of any passer-by. If kept in order it presents a neater appearance than if
it were built of any other material. It will command a higher price if at any time
it is put upon the market. It is fire—proof and so the insurance rates are reduced in
proportion to the reduced risks.

SIZE OF GRAVELz—VVhen building a heavy wall the gravel can be larger than
when building a thin wall, but none should be larger than what will pass through a
2%)” ring. Very good results are obtained from a mixture of difi‘erent sizes of gravel,
from %” up to 2%”, which will reduce the spaces or voids between the stones and
make a very compact concrete, requiring less sand and cement than would be required
if all large gravel were used. Gravel should be clean, free from loam, clay or vegetable
matter. Gravel should also be screened and all of the sand taken out, then mixed
in the right proportion. Sometimes sand and gravel is used just as taken from a
gravel pit, but such mixtures are not always even, usually having too much sand,
which makes a very unevenly mixed concrete.

SAND. Sand should be clean, coarse, and free from loam, clay or vegetable
matter. Fine sand takes at least ten per cent more cement than coarse sand.

PROPORTIONINGz—A -mixture of one, two and four means that one part of
cement, two of sand, and four of gravel are used, making seven parts in all.

MIXING BOARD z—VVhen mixing by hand a mixing board should be made which
should not be less than 10’ square for two men, and lO’xlli’ for four men. Matched
surface boards are the best as they make shoveling easier and also prevent the cement
from washing through the cracks between the boards. Fig. 1 on the opposite page
shows a mixing board; a, b, c, etc., represent the 2”x4” girders on which the flooring
boards A are nailed. B and C show 2”x4” timbers nailed on top of the boards around
the edge. These are very convenient, especially when the board is rather small in
that they keep the mixture from running off of the boards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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HOW TO MEASURE MATERIAL FOR CONCRETEzw—Measuring by wheelbarrow
loads, etc.:—Measuring boxes are sometimes made to measure the sand and gravel.
A good way to make these boxes is shown in Fig. 2. Use 2” plank 12” high; the
ends of the sides of the box should project past the end pieces about 12” and should
be cut out as shown at A to allow for hand hold to lift off the box after being filled
with sand or gravel. These boxes are made of different sizes according to the mixture
required and according to the number of bags of concrete that you are going to use
in one batch. For a batch using two bags of cement, the box for sand must be 2’0”x2’0”.

- — - . . --

and the width of a 12” plank in depth, which is about 11%”. The box for gravel
should be 2’0”x4’0”; all measurements are inside measurement.

. The following table will give the different sizes of measuring boxes, the amount
of ingredlents used and the resultant amount of concrete.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Table No. 1
Proportions I CEMENT SAND I GRAVEL ICONCRETE iii““9""???_Bf”‘“112,i,DEE_IApproximale I
. I_§o._ol Bags Cubic Feel I Cubic Feel I Cubic Fm SAND , I_ 935V“ _} Water
1 1:04 I 2 2% I 5% I 6 1' x‘Z’S” I 2' x2’8” s
- 1to5 I 2 31/3 I 6% I 7,14 1' Km” 7—2} x3'4” 9
1 to 1; I 2 4 I 8 I 9 1' x4’ _I 2' x—l’ 10
1 to 7 I 2 I 4% I 9% S‘ 101/3 *1 1U.”x3'6” I 2'1”x4' 11 I
1 m SFI 2 I—Eag I 102: 13 I 1'4”x4' I 2’8”x4’ 12
1:09 I 2 6 I 12 _S 13% Ifll’fi’kJr' I 2's”x+'a"_‘_ 1:;

 

 

 

For a ~l—bag mixture the measuring boxes must be made to hold twice the amount
specified in the above table, so that a mixture of l to 6 would pequire a sand box
2’0”xl’0” ; fill the same sized box two times with gravel as it requires twice as much
gravel as sand. A Wheelbarrow will hold about 2 cubic feet; then for a 2-bag mixture
and a proportion of 1 to 6, it will require two wheelbarrows of sand and four wheel—
barrows of gravel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

HEAszEIno Box

166

 

Mm"—

TABLE NO. 2:—Showing the amounts of the different materials required to
mix concrete of the different proportions; the wheelbarrow is used as the unit of
measure. The table is divided into two parts; the first part is arranged showing the
amounts of sand and gravel to be used for the same amount of cement; the second
part shows how much cement to use when the amounts of sand and gravel are constant.
Cement is shown only in number of bags, two bags making one wheelbarrow full.

Table No. 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

‘ CEMENT SAND GRAVEL Proportions SAND 1 GRAVEL ! CEMENT
1—72 1% 225;" .1 t0 1 2 Fifi—i :1 d—
2 15.; 3‘; — 1105“: 2 _N4 l 224. _
3 '7—F-’*-i 1106 ';—i 2 -i V—I 2 _
n—Tiflzfj— 7‘47:F WES—T—;#2_ _~ W1] 1%
2 71:2? .31; 7—1 1 to s ’ 2 4 F71:
##2FF-r; "“7"“ 1:09 1* 2 it 4 l—iu

 

 

 

If the sand and gravel are mixed in about the right proportions without being
separated as it comes from the pit. the mixture will be as shown in the following table.

Table No. 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 1 m 1 2 4 61;;

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7 m (i — 2 6 -.i_ 10

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37:17 2 it” in?

 

You will notice in Table No. 3 that a two—bag mixture of l to (i will make 10 cubic
feet of concrete, while a mixture of l, 2 and 4, as shown in Table No. 1, will only make
S) cubic feet of concrete. The reason for this is that if you would take the pit gravel
(6 wheelbarrows full) and screen the sand out of it, measure the gravel and sand
separately, you would have nearly seven wheelbarrows full. When the sand and
gravel are mixed together the sand will fill all of the voids in the gravel making less
bulk.

HOW TO MIX CONCRETE :——After you have your mixing board made and
placed close to your sand and gravel pile you are ready to mix concrete. Sometimes
the mixing board is placed close to where the concrete is to be used; then the concrete
is shoveled right in place without putting it into wheelbarrows and wheeling it to

place. It is a good idea to have the material all near the place where it is to be used

as it is all very heavy. Where the sand and gravel are separated it is well to measure
your sand first and spread it out on your board about 6” thick, then put your cement
on the sand and spread it as evenly as possible over the sand; turn it over twice by
shoveling and spread out again; measure your gravel and spread it over the sand
and cement; water can then be added before mixing the gravel with the sand. It
should be turned over twice after the gravel is added before putting it in place. More
water can be added while turning the mixture until you have the required amount.

MIXING PIT GRAVELz—When mixing pit gravel that has the required amount
of sand, the gravel should be put on the mixing board and spread out not more than
6” in thickness; then add the cement; turn over twice before adding any water;
then add water and mix the same as specified above.

WATER AND TAMPINszlt takes nearly one gallon of water for a cubic foot
of sand and gravel. Concrete should not be mixed too dry. \Vhen the concrete is
wet enough to be mushy and run off a shovel when handling, it will make a very
solid wall and will leave no voids; it will not set as fast as when the mixture is less
wet, and the longer it is in setting the harder it becomes.

Cement blocks when made of a dry mixture should be stacked up under shelter
where the sun will not shine on them, and should be thoroughly soaked with water
at least twice a day for a week. When the concrete mixture is made very wet so as
to be a slush it will not require any tamping but should be spaded along the sides
of the form as shown in Fig. 3. In this way the walls will be made smoother by
pushing all large gravel and stones away from the outside. A medium wet mixture
of concrete should be put in in layers, not more than 8” at a time, and then well
tamped until the water stands on top of the concrete.

A tamper shown in Fig. 4 is made by using a cast iron plate, as at a, about 6” or
8” square, with a 2” gas pipe or wood handle, as at b. Fig. 5 shows a tamper made
of a (3”x6” timber which is sometimes used when an iron one cannot be had.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A. .
[Ron TAMPER 7:13 5
T‘cg 1/ WOOD TAMPER

 

SPADm o

REINFORCED CONCRETE is ordinary concrete with steel or iron rods in various
shapes, or wire netting, imbedded for the purpose of giving greater strength in places
where there is danger of pulling or bending, as in floor spans, columns, walls, tanks,
etc. The rods or wire hold the concrete together in such a way that stress or force
would first have to break the rods before it could break the concrete.

By reinforcing concrete with metal we avoid the necessity of arching it.
fore, floor beams can be made flat on the bottom.

Round rods or square twisted rods are oftentimes used. There are also special
r0ds,made by different manufacturers, especially designed for reinforcing concrete.
For concrete slabs, wire netting similar to metal lath, though heavier, is frequently
used, either with or without rods. Barbed fence wire is sometimes used for
reinforcing small work. .

PLACING OF STEEL RODS:——-The placing of steel rods in beams where the weight
is on the top of the beam should be as near the bottom of the beam as possible.
However, they must be imbedded in the concrete. Should the rods be placed near
the center of the beam they would be subject to a greater strain than when placed
near the bottom. Fig. (5 shows a concrete beam with rods at a-a. Many maintain
that at least two of the rods should be bent up at the ends as at b. The rods shown
at d are floor rods and are not connected with the beam rods.

The following table gives the size of rods for different sized beams.

There—

Table giving Size of Rods for Reinforced Concrete Beams to carry 150 lbs. to the sq. ft.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Table No. 4
31;; .1 win. 01"Tnepn. {IT *"r...‘...”*?..;;1n;;' . 13.51;... "
Span in ‘ Beam in . Beam in 0i in Belween Beam
Feet Inches l Inches Rods Inches Centers
T 7 14 TT3 9/1.; 4 T
8 s 15 ' 2;; §/8’ r)
9 16 T 3 11/16 T 8
TT 8 1.1 4. 5/3 T 4
10 T 9 15 4 11/11; 1 T
10 m 4 3/4 8
T 9 11; 4 T 54 T 1 T
12 10 17 4 T 3/, o
11 18 4 % 8
10 is 1 :34 4
14 TiTT “Tin—T TT4TT MT T 1.
12 I 211 T 4 1 s

 

 

 

 

 

168

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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SECTION ThROUGh moor: A/‘ID bEAm.

FENCE POSTS:-—By making fence posts of concrete we have a post which will
last. a life—time. They should be made about 5 inches square at the bottom and 4
inches square at the top. The posts should be at least 3 feet in the ground, the
distance above the ground depending upon the height of the fence. It is not necessary
to make a post tapering. It can be made 4 or 5 inches square in cross section and
the same thickness throughout.

By making a form as shown in Fig. 7 one can make his own fence posts of concrete.
The forms shown in Fig. 7 are for posts 7’ long. A shows the top of the form and B
the side. As shown at C forms for two posts are made together. The board forming
the bottom should be cut 11” wide at one end and 9” at the other. The board 1 is
placed in the center throughout. The wooden pin at 5 is loosely placed and extends
up through the bottom.

   
   

 

We 7

After making the form, mix the concrete, using a proportion of nothing less than
122:4. The mixture should be placed fairly wet so as to entirely envelope the
reinforcing bars. Use no gravel larger than what will pass through a screen with a 1”
mesh. Oil the inside of the form well before placing the concrete. Put in a layer
of concrete from %” to 1” thick. Then lay in two reinforcing rods about 1” from the
sides of the form as shown at 3, Fig. C. Again fill in the concrete until 1” or %”
from the top when two more rods should be placed as at 2. Fig C. The remainder of
the form should now be filled with concrete.

 

 

MAW/‘10 CONCRETE POSTS.

It will be necessary to make some arrangement whereby you will be able to fasten
your fence wire to the posts. Take a piece of good heavy wire, say about 10” or 12”
long. Bend it in the middle and twist the two ends so as to make a loop on one end
and about 3” on the free ends. Place one such wire in the post as at 4, Fig. C., while
the concrete is still soft for every wire you expect to have on the fence, and set them
at the proper spaces. Then when you are about to string your fence the wire can
first be stretched and brought into place when the two free ends of the loop in the
post should be twisted firmly about it, thus making it secure to the post. Another

method is to place wooden pegs or pins made of oak or some other hard wood through

holes properly placed in the bottom of the forms as at 5,. Fig. C. These pins should
be about %” at one end and 1” at the other and should be of such a length that they
will project entirely through the post. They should be well oiled before the concrete
is placed so that they can be easily removed without injuring the rest of the post.
Allow the concrete to set for two days at least before you attempt to remove the
forms. In stringing the wire through posts made in this manner it will be found
necessary to secure the wire frequently by driving a plug into the hole after the wire
has been stretched through it.

For reinforcing rods for fence posts use round rods about 14” thick; No. (3 wire
will serve the purpose just as well. They should be cut so as to measure 1 3/2”shorter than
the finished post. Barbed wire is often used not only for reinforcing, but also for
securing the fence wire to the post. In this case it will not be necessary to loop the
wire. A 7” or 8” piece of wire can be bent into any form and placed so as to leave
about 3” projecting from the post. The strands can then be used as described before.

CORNER BRACES can be made the same as the regular posts except that they
must be longer. Make them about 7’6” long or even longer.

CORNER POSTS AND GATE POSTS should be made 9” or 10” square throughout
and about 9’ long. They should be reinforced with rods at least %” in diameter.

HITCHING POSTS, CLOTHES LINE POSTS, ETC., can be made in the same
manner. For a hitching post place a staple made of 1/4” iron with a ring on it near
the top of the post. The staple should be at least 6” long.

\Vhen making posts the concrete should be allowed to set for 48 hours at least.
Remove the forms by turning them up-side—down on an even piece of ground. The
posts should be allowed to remain on the ground for at least five days and should
be sprinkled with water at least twice daily and covered from the sun. By this means
they will be sufficiently set to allow of handling and placing in the ground.

WATERING TROUGHS

Watering troughs are made in various shapes—oblong, Spuare or circular.
Concrete mixed for water troughs should be 1 part cement, 1% parts sand and 3
parts gravel.

FOUNDATION FOR TROUGHz—First decide upon the size and site of your
trough. Stake out the ground as you would for a house. If the ground is hard. it
will not be necessary to do any excavating. Level the ground and tamp it solid
and you are ready to place the concrete forms.

\Ve will suppose that your tank is to be 4’ wide, 8’ long and 2’ deep. Place two
72” planks 10’ or 12’ long on the ground as shown in the cut, Fig. 8 as at M-N. so that
the distance between them is 4’2”. This will allow space for the sheathing, as at
A and B, Fig. 8. Cut 1” boards and nail one at each end of the planks to hold them
in place as shown at D-D. Cut short pieces of studding of any convenient material
3”x3” or 2”x4”; make them 4” longer than the height of the tank or 2’4” long. PlaCe
five of them on each side of the tank and toenail them to the plank so that their inner

- 7‘ , D
edge comes even with the edge of the plank. lhey should be evenly placed and so

spaced that the distance between the outside edges of the Corner posts lengthwise

 

of the tank .is just 8’. Now cut your boards 8’ long and nail them to the inside of
the posts as at A-B, keeping the ends even with the edge of the outside post. Build
up to the required height or 2’. Now nail boards across the ends as at E. The outside
form for the tank is now complete. It may, however, be necessary in some cases
to place studding at the ends and fasten them by means of braces fastened to the
ground.

Now make the inner form as shown at Fig. 9. The walls and bottom of the
tank should be 4” thick. Therefore, the inner form should be 7’4” long, 3’4” wide
and 2’0” deep. Cut eight studs as before, making them 2’ long. The side boards
of the form should be 7’2” long. Nail them to the studs beginning at the bottom
and building to the tOp as before, A—B, Fig. 9. Then cut the end boards exactly 3’4”
long and nail. them on the ends of the side walls as shown in Fig. 9 at C-D.

You are now ready for the concrete. Place about 2%” of concrete in the bottom
of the outside form. Now cover it with a netting of fence wire for reinforcing.
Should you care to reinforce the side walls as well, as at Fig. 11, make the wire long
enough that it can be bent up into the walls. Now fill in with concrete again until
you have reached the depth of l”. The inner form can now be set within the outer
form. It must be evenly spaced on all sides and secured by strips nailed across
the tops of the studs as shown in Fig. 10. Now fill in with concrete fairly wet keeping
the reinforcing wires in place and tamping lightly until filled. The concrete should
also be spaded.

To provide drainage for the trough a wooden plug of any size desired should be
made of a length equal to the thickness of the walls. Place this in the concrete 2”
or 3” from the bottom of the tank. It should be made tapering and well oiled so as

to be easily driven out after the concrete is set. A plug can then be made to fit the
opening with a ball on the end so that it can be pulled out. by hand when desired.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Allow the tank to remain in the form for two days or so. After removing the
forms it will be well to make a mixture of Portland cement and water and go over
the tank inside and out, rubbing it with a small smoothing board or a brick and filling
up all pores and open spaces with the cement.

Should you want any piping done away from the tank the connections must
be put in as the tank is being built.

There are other ways in which forms for such tanks can be built but it does not
seem necessary to show more than one. You can make hog troughs. chicken troughs
or any kind of tank you may desire in this way. Forms for circular tanks can be
made as shown under the head of Silos.

     

    

 

 

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FOUNDATION WALLS AND FOOTINGS

Most foundation walls require footings.

“'hen the footing is not laid below the cellar floor: Place a plank as shown at
C, Fig. 12. Drive a few stakes on the inside to hold it in place. Fill in the concrete
even with the top of the plank.

When the footing is below the cellar floor: The size of the footing, of course,
depends upon the size of the house to rest upon it. For ordinary dwelling houses
the footing is seldom made more than 8” to 10” deep and from 4” to 6” wider than
the wall. Dig this trench entirely around the cellar excavation the size of the
footing and fill with concrete.

Now place the form for the wall and brace it as shown at D, Fig. 12. In this
case the bank of earth on one side is used for one side of the form up to grade line.
The form may be built up on both sides. in which case it will be necessary to make
the excavation a foot larger all around. In the latter case the earth should not be
thrown back in until the concrete has set for ll) days or so.

It is not necessary to reinforce foundation walls. The cross walls and floor
301st reinforce it from the inside and the earth from the outside.

In the case of a frame building to be erected upon a concrete foundation it is
the better plan to place bolts in the concrete work for the purpose of holding the
wooden sill of the building. These bolts should be V2” or 5g” thick and about 18”
long and should, of course. be allowed to project high enough from the top of the

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concrete to extend entirely through the sill. Place them about every (3 feet on the
wall. This method secures a light frame building to the wall in such a-manner that.
it will not be shifted by the winds.

However, if you desire to build the superstructure also of concrete it will be
necessary to level off the foundation walls and place your first floor joist. After
this the forms may be placed and the wall built up to the height of the second floor
joist.

If the concrete wall is made solid it should be furred on the inside before the
lathing is done. Use 2”x2” strips placed its” center for furring. This method leaves
an air space in the wall. An air space makes for a more even temperature, winter
and summer, and also provides ventilation for the wall which keeps out dampness.

Instead of the furring it is a good plan to build a hollow wall. This may be done
by placing box forms in the wall as shown in Fig. 8. These forms should be made
somewhat tapering and about 4” thick. They should be raised at the same time
the outer form is raised.

 

 

The same form as shown in Fig. 8 is used to make a solid wall. In this case

the box forms are left out.

CONCRETE SIDEWALKS

A common use to which concrete is put is the construction of concrete sidewalks.
In this capacity it has proven very successful.

HOW TO LAY A CONCRETE WALKz—Dig a trench the width of the proposed
walk. If you wish the surface of the walk flush with the ground the trench should
be nearly 12” deep. If you wish the walk to set above ground the-trench should be
of such a depth that combined with the height of the form above ground it will be
about 12”. In the cut the trench shown is 8” deep with a 2”x—1” timber used as a form
above ground, as shown at D. Fill in the sub—foundation composed of large Cinders
or gravel tamped solid, yet leaving plenty of voids. This should be about 6” thick
in cold damp climates, though in warm or dry climates it may be made 2” or 3” thick
and is sometimes omitted altogether. Of course as this sub-foundation is reduced
in depth the trench may also be reduced in depth.

The foundation comes next. This is composed of cement concrete mixed in
proportions of 1—3—6. It should be placed and well tamped and” should be about 4”
thick. The surface of this layer should be kept as clean as possible and should not
be allowed to set before the last coat is placed.

The last layer as shown at C is the surface or wearing coat. This gives a
finished appearance to the walk. It is composed of one part cement to two parts of
coarse sharp sand. It should follow as close upon the laying of the layer B as possible
that a good connection shall be made between the two layers. This surface coat
should be mixed rather stifl though not dry. It should be well worked in the
foundation surface so as to fill all pores and holes, and should be 1 or 1%” thick.
As soon as the surface film of water leaves the surface it should be floated with a wooden
float and rubbed smooth. Too much floating, however, will in many cases bring a
coat of pure cement to the surface; it is thus likely to cause cracks when setting,

ed

 

because of the unequal densities of the mixture. The surface may be floated with
a rough float or may be rolled with a toothed roller to remove the smooth surface
which so many concrete walks have.

The forms (1 on each side of the walk should be even and flush with the proposed
grade of the walk. They should be even and flush with the proposed grade of the
walk. They should be held firmly in place by stakes 6. By keeping the forms even
a straightedge may be moved along the top of the forms to give the surface of the walk.

The surface should be cut through every (i feet or so and it is a good plan to cut
entirely through the foundation every little way and put in a tar or sand joint. This
join takes up the expansion of the concrete so that it will not buckle. To cut the
surface lay a straightedge over the walk and cut with a trowel. The edges can then
be rounded with a tool made for the purpose. Should the walk be a very wide one
it should be cut through the center lengthwise.

DRAINAGE OF SIDEWALKS:—If a concrete sidewalk is not properly drained
in a cold climate there is danger of water collecting beneath it and freezing. In this
way the center of the walk is raised up and a crack results. The loose texture of
the sub-foundation is for the purpose of drainage. However, if the earth outlying
this is of a dense texture the sub-foundation will finally fill with water. Therefore,
some means must be found whereby the sub-foundation can be drained. In the
cut is shown a tile laid at the side of the walk and leading to the street gutter. In
place of a tile a trench may be dug and filled with the same loose material, as the
structure of the sub—foundation. The beams should be placed about event/.25 feet.
In loose sandy soil it is not necessary to place drains.

 

 

 

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REINFORCEMENT FOR CEMENT SLABS

 

 

 

Span in Thickness in Spacing "I Size ol Rods
Feel Inches 1:31;: in inches
4 4 7 i 5/16
(3 -1 i 7 I 5%

3 i 4 "3 i 7/14;

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Where the weight to be carried is less than 150 pounds per square foot the rods
can be made 1-16 inch smaller for each 2.3 pounds less. However no rods should
be less than 7—16 of an inch.

Concrete shrinks when setting. It also shrinks in cold weather and expands
in hot weather. It is, therefore, necessary that continuous concrete should have
joints filled with tar to allow for expansion and contraction. This method keeps
the concrete from cracking.

COBBLESTONE CONCRETEz—There is an increasing tendency throughout the
country to build houses of a rather massive structure. This tendency is far more
noticeable in the western part of the country and particularly upon the coast.
Cobblestones seem to lend themselves in almost endless ways to this massive con—
struction. These are not often used in city residences nor yet in suburban houses,
but find their greatest field of usefulness in the building of country or of mountain
homes.

Oftentimes the entire sub-structure of the house, up to the belt—course, is built
of cobblestones. Other times they are carried only to the lower window line. The
upper part of the house may be constructed of wood, brick or stucco, all having a
pleasing effect. A style which so far seems only extant in California—which fact
seems due to the institution of Japanese ideas—is created by the practice of building
the body of the structure of dark brick and by placing at random among the brick
cobblestones of varying sizes. The larger stones are placed near the bottom, pro—
gressing up the wall, both the size and frequency of the stones decrease. A large
outside chimney built in this way lends a novel appearance of strength and endur-
ance to a house.

Where a house is set in a naturally rugged location, the cobblestone construction,
either wholly or in part, seems to make the structure a part of the landscape. If
the garden walls are made of cobbles they may be worked out to have a very
pleasing effect and seem to form a connecting link between the house and the outlying
landscape.

Cobblestones are not to be recommended for general use.

It is only in a naturally
rugged site that they take a pleasing part.

Put them in the city with its lack of

172

shrubbery and its smooth lawns and they seem strangely out of place. Then again
it is often very difficult to find the stone. In a mountainous or rugged country
where such stones abound they may be used as a matter of economy as well as for
artistic purposes.

Cobblestones should be neither too large nor too small. A range of from 3”
to 8” covers the size fairly well. In very massive walls boulders of larger size may be
used to advantage along the ground. They should be held together by a good durable
mortar, preferably of cement base.

The color of the cobbles to be used can be left to the choice of the one building
the house. Moss-covered stones may often be used with a pleasing effect, suggesting
the idea of age and close touch with the natural world about. The stones are usually
found in various colors,sueh as red, white, black, gray, brown and green. The use
of stones of various colors often gives a very pleasing effect.

STUCCO WORK:-~Stucco work is cement plastering. It is used forthe purpose
of veneering either new or old buildings. It gives an old building the appearance of
a new one. It is both durable and artistic and is not greatly affected by weather
conditions.

A stucco finish may be applied to a frame, brick, stone or concrete house.
However, before the stucco may be applied the house must be prepared in such a
manner that the stucco will not crack or scale off.

The stucco should be applied about 1% inches thick, preferably in two coats.
The first coat should be mixed in proportions of one part Portland cement to two .
parts of coarse sharp sand and three parts of slaked lime putty. A little hair mixed
in the mixture will strengthen the coat. The second or finish coat should be mixed
in proportions of one part cement to four parts of clean coarse sand and one part
of slaked lime putty. It should be applied medium wet and should be well floated
leaving a smooth or rough finish as desired. The stucco work should then be covered
to protect it from the sun and should be kept wet for five or six days.

can be applied to a frame building the building should be
covered with a heavy coating of building paper. It must then be furer and covered
with wire lath. Expanded metal lath is most widely used for this purpose. This
lath allows the plaster to fold over and clinch on the inside thus holding it firmly

Before stucco

In applying stucco to brick, stone or concrete the wall must first be thoroughly
cleaned with good clean water. In the ease of a concrete wall it is a good plan to
take a stone axe or an old hatchet and roughen the surface by chopping it full of
holes. This gives the stucco a better hold on the wall.

Stucco work is much cheaper than solid concrete. If applied to a new building
it ranges along with the cost of a frame structure.

Stucco finish may be made monolithic. Again the plain severity of a monolithic
wall may be relieved by the artistic placing of beamswmdows and a belt course
in the surface of the structure. A very pleasing effect is produced by plastering

 

the house up to the belt course above the first story windows; above this may be
shingled or sided as desired. This method may be reversed though it gives a more
or less top-heavy appearance to the house. It seems more consistent to have the
frame structure resting on the apparently massive sub—structure.

It is a good plan to give a stucco house a good coating of water—proofing. This
together with the great amount of air space in the walls will make a house free from
dampness.

A FEW SUGGESTIONS:—Cement should always be stored in a dry place and it
is well to keep it covered as it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and becomes
lumpy. “'hcn cement becomes lumpy it should not be used as it has lost its greatest
strength. Cement should not be stacked on the bare ground.

New concrete work should always be covered and not exposed to the hot sun
for three or four days at least. Cement concrete should never be allowed to freeze.
If cement’concrete freezes it should have no load put upon it until after it has thawed

out. After concrete once sets it should not be used again.
KIND OF CEMENTzflll’hen doing cement work always use the best Portland
cement. The cement comes in paper or cloth sacks and wooden barrels; it is easier

to handle when in cloth sacks.

WEIGHT OF CEMENT:—A barrel of cement weighs 390 pounds and a sack
95 pounds. Four sacks are required to make one barrel.

CONSISTENCY OF CONCRETEz—A dry mixture requiring vigor oustamping to
bring the water to the surface is perhaps the strongest kind of concrete. However,
for the sake of time and labor expended a wet mixture requiring little tamping is to
be preferred. The longer concrete is in drying the harder it will become. It is
therefore, a good plan to cover a green wall to keep off the sun and then to sprinkle
it with water at least once a day for a week or even two. ,

RUBBLE CONCRETEz—Often in the construction of massive retaining or
foundation walls large stones called cobbles are thrown in. They do not particularly
strengthen the walls but are used rather as a matter of economy. Using such stones
less concrete is needed and less- time required in placing. \Vhen used in this way
they should not be closer than J; or 5 inches to the outside surface nor should they
be closer than that to one another.

173

HOW TO BUILD A CONCRETE SILO

In building a silo there are several very important considerations to be kept in
mind. A silo must be both air-tight and water—tight; its walls must be very strong
as the weight of the silo when filled with silage is very great; the inner surface of the
walls must not only be vertical but they must be perfectly smooth as well, as any
projection is likely to retard some of the silage on its downward course thus leaving
an air space as the silage below it settles; these air spaces mold the silage. A silo
must also be located upon the firmest ground you can find about your place.

Four tons of silage will feed the average cow for six months. This requires a
space of about 200 cubic feet. Knowing this you can readily figure out the size of
silo for your needs. The following table will aid you in this task. It gives the number
of tons which silos of various sizes will hold. Dividing the number of tons shown by
4 you will find the number of cattle which can be fed from the silo for six months.
For instance, take the silo shown as being 12’ inside diameter and 20’ deep. According
to the table it will hold when filled 336 tons of silage. Dividing this number by -l we
find that we can feed 9 head of cattle for six months from a silo of the size shown.

It is never likely that you will be required to feed silage for a greater period than
six months out of a year.

Table of Capacity of various sized Silos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

mf’lfh,£lds”°l IMSIDE DIAMETER 0F SILO [N FEET
10’ 11’ 12' 14’ 16’ 17' 18’ 19' 20'
20 2o ‘ _
22 30 ‘ ‘36 _ ~_‘__*
24 34 41 40 _ —— 3
25 _[ 36 4‘3 ‘- 32 fl—“H‘ _ , 5
28 l 4-2 31 m ‘3 fl _ _____ 5?
30 47 #56 . ‘67 . 91 107 _” E:
#32 .31 o.) 73 — 102 1:30 __ _:
' 34 m (is 80 110 _ — 142 165 Z:
36 GO 7‘: so 120 130 i 175 195 *
38 *no so 95 137 165 l 190 215 240
40 70 — 8') 100 _ 140 F 180 l_ 200 2.0.0 255 j 275

 

 

The ordinary size for a silo is 10’ or 12’ inside diameter and from 25’ to 30’ in
height. It is considered the best plan to have the silo over two times as high as it
is wide. You should so figure out the amount to be used per day so that you can lower
the feed in the silo at least 2” a day as anything less than this is likely to cause the
silage to mold. The foundation footings for a silo should be set below the frost—line
or about 5’ below the surface. Because of the great weight of the silo, as stated before,
it must be set upon very solid ground. The depth at which it is Set in the ground
insures it against settling and against the wind.

\Vhen you have decided upon the site for the silo drive a stake as near the center
as you can. Put a nail in the top of this and attach a string to be used as a compass.
Take a radius 3’4” greater than the inside radius of your silo and mark off a circle
on the ground. This will be the outermost circle of the excavation. Dig down as
shown in Fig. A, allowing the walls to slant so as to avoid caving and also to allow
more room in which to work. \Vhen you have reached a depth of 3’ 8” drive another
stake in the center and lay out the circle for the footings.

As 12’x25’ is about the average size for a silo it is one of that size that we will
cons1der here.

 

   

 

 

 

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. can be done by placing thin steel bars or wires as shown in Fig. B.

 

 

 

 

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As shown in Fig A, it is 6’4” to the outer circle of the footing. After marking
this circle off dig it all down 4”. Then mark off the inner circle of the foundation,
which is 2’ less in radius. Now dig a trench 1’ deep and 2’ wide, leaving the raised
earth floor as shown in Fig. A.

LAN/‘10- OUT

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Now we are ready for the concrete. This should be mixed fairly wet though
not slushy in a proportion of 1—3—5. The excavation should be filled with concrete
4.” above the earth floor in the center and the concrete should be well tampcd.

Should the ground be at all unstable it would be well to reinforce the floor. This
In place of the
steel bars it would be consistent to use barbed fence wire, in which case the pieces

should be placed closer together. The reinforceing bars should be placed about 3/19”
below the surface of the floor.

174

After the concrete has all been placed, the center!to within 1’ and 4” of the
outside— should be smoothed off, as this is to be the floor of the silo.

I "x 3' braces

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Fig.1: FORMS E f— fi‘mm ran DOOR OPE/VINO
' ' ' AND LAnm—R moms,

\Vhen the form is filled and well tamped and the concrete is set enough to keep

We now come to the construction of the walls. First the forms must be made it from giving, the forms may be loosened by means of the adjusting belts or screws.
and set ready for the concrete. Fig. C shows how to go about making the forms. shown in Fig. 0 They can then be raised by means 0f the letters, arranged for the
The circular pieces shown at 1 and 2 (Fig. C) are cut from 2”x4” material of the lengths purpose and again filled With concrete. They should not be raised to the. tOP Of the
shown. These are fastened together with a piece of iron or wood used as a cleat W311 already bUht- heave enough concrete “'1th1h them 50 that the weight 0f the
as shown in the drawing, and are then securely bolted. They are further secured new concrete thrown 1113““ not break 03 the edges 0f the wall-
by the 2”x4” studs shown at 1. Fig. E, and the l”x4” strip and l”x.3” braces shown in As the wall progresses upward it becomes necessary to erect a framework or
fizz-[’11 A_ 1”x4” plece must be cut alse so as to set WIthrthe elreuler edgeef the scaffold upon which to work. This should be built up then with the wall. After
2 X4 - It 15 to be set 1” back from the Circular edge 0f the 2"X4”~ It 15 t0 th15 Sthp the scaffolding is so high up that a man can no longer hand up a bucket of concrete
that the 1’53” str1ps,forming the inner surface Of the form, are fastened. The entire a tower or derrick should be erected of any convenient beams or posts. A block
form ShOUId be about 3’ high can be attached to this and the material drawn up by a horse.

“'hen the forms are completed they should be so placed upon the foundation The steel bars or wires for reinforcement should be placed upon the foundation
that the inner surface Of the form “'1“ he JUSt 7” from the center 0f the floor. You before any concrete is placed. It is a good plan to have both vertical and circular

are now ready to put in the concrete. reinforcement.

175

The forms are raised by means of levers mounted firmly to posts within the circle
of the structure. These levers may be made of 2”x(3” planks. They pull upon other
planks which are secured to the forms by means of wire loops or an adjustable chain.
Both sides of the forms must be raised evenly and at the same time.

\Vhen the wall reaches the proper height the frames for the doors should be set
in place. Fig. F shows two views of the. way in which these frames or forms should
set. They should be set firmly in place and the concrete filled in around them.

 

 

RAM 07"— Ram’-

At 1 and 2 (Fig. F) are shown two wooden plugs slightly tapering and 1” thick
at the small end. These plugs are for the purpose of leaving holes in which the ladder
rounds can be secured. as shown at 3 and 4. At 5 is shown another view of a round.
A wooden ladder can be made to hang from the top of the silo or can be bolted to the
wall in holes made in a like manner. However. the round iron ladder is the better
of the two.

176

 

 

 

 

 

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Stet l on 07‘- R00?—

. .7, ma; nu-
.

 

The roof is the next step in‘the building of the silo. Pieces of 2”XS”, as showri
in Fig. G. are cut to lay on top of the wall. There should be bolts imbedded in the
concrete by means of which these pieces of plank are securely bolted to the wall
Then they are fastened together by means of 2’53” cleats as shown in the drawing
The rafters are cut from 2”x($” lumber and must be about 9’8” long. Fig. H shows
another view of the roof.

A roof of cement can be built it such is preferred.
structed and reintorcement placed.
the structure.

Forms can easily be con—
Such a roof is more in keeping with the rest ot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   
          

  

    

u. I“.
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329- .9"
.

 

 

 

 

Locm'lon OF DOORS .

“'hen the walls have reached the required height they should be plastered with
a mixture of cement and fine sand, 1—]. and rubbed thoroughly with a smoothing
board. This is necessary on the inside that no projections will be allowed to remain
on the wall. On the outside it only helps the appearance.

Should you desire a chute for the ensilage to be built over the doors, bolt strips
of 2”x4” on each side of the doors and the full height of the silo. To these you can
build the chute. All boards should be put on the inside of the frame as shown in Fig.
K that it may have a perfectly smooth surface.

177

 

 

 

 

closcl

Dwnnc Roon.\J MTCHEH.

Down

CHAMBER

 

i
O
O
l!
3:
,—
{13

LlVll‘lG ROOM

 

 

CHAHBER

ALCOVE

Plan No. 4

 

Here is a very convenient and well arranged cottage 24 ft. by 28 ft.
basement 7 ft. 6 in., first floor 9 ft. and second 8 ft. Finished in yellow pine
and hard wood floors, hot air furnace and good plumbing, can be built for
about $2200. The outside walls are plastered as shown by the perspective ROOF

Cost of plans $12.00. Bill of material $6.00.

 

First Story Plan

 

 

 

 

Second Story Plan

178

klrcnen
shelvca

Rum"

LIVING R00!"I DH‘IIHG Rm

 

finer STORY PLAN.

 

 

Plan N0. 13

This cottage is 36 ft. wide by 2—1 ft. long. 7 ft. 6 in. basement, 9 ft
first story, 8 ft. second story. Outside pebble dash plaster on metal lath.
The center hall connects the dining room and the living room With colonnades
between them. The cellar stairs are under the front stairs with a grade door.
The second floor has three bed rooms and a bath room and plenty of closets.
The house is finished in oak for the living room, diningr room, stair hall and
stairs stained weathered oak. The second floor is finished in birch and
stained mahogany. Hardwood floors. This cottage complete costs $3300

with modern plumbing. Price of plans and specifications complete for
$18.00. Bill of material $6.00.

1:9

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jhflvrrl (/1

r ”9.1-- . l L
l l i V L—J
C ”6 BATH R'!

 

    
 

CHAMBER d
CHAHBER
CHAT‘BER \\
—
clonal

 

 

 

 

SECOND STORY PLAN.

c
170"

 
 
 

L_-_-__ - _-----4

    

 

 

 

 

Proa/Brcfi

17L fi‘F'I‘L fl
._. H

 
 

 

 

 

 

First Story Plan

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 27

The size of this bungalow is 33 ft. by 35 ft., brick fireplace, beamed
ceilings in dining room and living room. The outside is pebble dash, cement
porch, plate and art glass in main rooms, gas and electric light fixtures,
Oak finish, with oak floors throughout. Hot air furnace, modern plumbing.
Basement 7 ft. 6 in., first floor 9 ft., second 8 ft. The wood is stained dark.
This house complete cost $3500.

Cost of plans and specifications complete $15.00. Bill of material $8.00.

180

BIT/7 300/

 

Second Story Plan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

\ I i
-_.- 3cm 4 ,___-______._
K: k\ '()rcne” ht / I /'

 

   
  
 

\ \
Dmmo Room

I ,
i \ \ ENTRY / // E] BATH T6904,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IH'x ly' ,
\ I HA / ..... _ ,3: ‘. ~ 321;:- 6.3.
- LL l' H :i'fg _((
{ Lid,“ -
i‘ t \ // BED Room | N .‘4 1%? ; a l
, .1 wig;-

[ 7 :1 M— - "ii-VJ %/ -
u ‘ CLO. CLO, ' " ‘ =- i};
l

  
  

lemo Room
-_- _/6.'m’—6"

Pisa? Btbfoom

HALL \

z / ,\ l.

l—‘ _- _.

' LIB IRY ‘ l
—/ 9L$Q FEDO/‘IT PORCH \

 

i
l
l
l
/ \ r i I‘m/W ELEVATION.
i
I
l
I

 

 

 

 

17.001? EA/i
Plan No. 163

.\ l'tlllgllllWV with >13; 1‘H()Ill,\‘, l'ztth‘ hull :md pantry. This is :t Very

 

 

eunvenient house Hood ventilatiun vlentv Hf clown. hath rmmt and lied ‘ . _,
, , , , .

 

rooms entered frmn the hull. This building finished in yellow pine, exeept

 

 

 

 

the dining room. living I‘umll, library and reeeptitm hall. which will 1,0 t‘; i
‘ - . - . u . ' “1‘"
tmished in 0:11;, wood SlllIlQlCS stained, either SOlItl cement walls ()r cement ix ’
« ' I
plaster. This house will cost :tlmut $3300.00 (‘ust includes plumbing and [Hi 1‘7.

 

 

 

 

 

hen t in g.

(inst uf pluns SliJHL Bill mi materiah Stunt E10 HT SIDE ELEVATlON
181

 

\\ ‘ CL?3{T

1%ch BED POOH BATH
‘\ CLOSET

 

 

 

 

\

gal .
Q

iJ—e'

 

 

 

 

711001? FEAN.

 

Plan No. 157

This cement plastered bungalow, 30 feet front and 35 feet deep, the
rooms- and bath with plenty of closet room, with basement
whole house, wood shingle roof, yellow pine finish, with oak floors in the
«lining and living rooms, eolonnztde between the dining room and living
room, cement porch floor and columns will cost about 83200.0(); without

basement 8'30000 194,-,

Cost of plans $13.00. Bill of materials $0.00,

 

under the

182

\

TfiGHT 3D]: ELEVA‘HOH

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5‘ ' , 'V :: “,"J t ~
I i ll , 3»- ‘-:' g
Id. ' l‘ "‘ ’. '— : 1N:-
; :. ll ‘ ,,: .. '//.‘f(
(‘1 r ‘ _ '13 ,1 . I. — ..
, S k. _\t ‘. w s-t r..-
ll'.l‘[ I
1;; k; "I ‘ W" , ,
a :. I:
a -. ‘ _

 

 

 

TWO/17 ELEVATION

   

    
    

v,

Z313.

fir' ’
ill

3.

    

‘33
r: a
”A

 

.. . t
31...»...1

n“

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[pert—4

 

ill:

    
 

    

 

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‘ «mm \g 4mg:
\y [2; ‘74

c, f K 7/

SEWING

Plan No. 156

A six room bungalow with basement. The outside shows wood siding
part way up and then cement plaster, but it can either be all wood siding
or plaster as the owner may prefer. The living room and dining room are
divided by a eolonnade, the cellar stairs go down under the stairs to the
second floor, all of the bed rooms have good sized closets. The house,
finished in yellow pine, hot air furnace and good plumbing, eun l)C buii:
for about $3000.00. The front of the building is 230 feet and the depth 32 fee‘.

Livmc Foom Dl/‘HNG Room

("0st of plans $10.00. Bill of materials $5.00.

Woo? ”5731mm

FRONT Pom: r1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

JEFST STORY

LA” SECOND STORY PLAN

 

18‘:

0rd de Door

‘REAR FbRcH

CH mBER

Q
12 —0'
§

CnAmBER
Iii '~D"

 

Q
. I
0‘
\

CLOSST

Lwomo Room Donnnc Room

CHANB

|
’0
\

CLOSET

0

FRONT Po RC :1

 

 

F1357 STOE’Y YEAH SECOND 3TOPY TEAH.

184

 

FR’on T ELEVATION.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I”!

 

 

 

 

 

Ll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

llll

 

 

 

 

 

 

II]!

 

nll‘

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WIGHT SIDE ELEV/mom.

Plan No. 168

A two story bungalow built of frame
or cement plaster, wood shingle roof,
the bath room and one bed room are on
the first floor, the dining room and liv-
ing room are divided by a wall with a
large opening. The rooms are all very
pleasant and convenient, Cement foun-
dation wall, cement porch and cellar,
cement steps. This building finished in
yellow pine, except the living room and
«lining room, which will be finished in
oak and oak floors, can be built for
about $4000.00. This includes steam
heat and modern plumbing.

185

 

 

 

 

Q

 

 

 

 

   

 

3L0 ’ " ' ;
nDWNQROOM
\
/ ,1"? .Anq‘hll
I I ‘4
\ \ "‘ , x/‘,.
- fian’rfanyw ”/ r

‘ Plan No. 139
3111/1/10 Rloom

A very attractive bungalow, can be plastered :11stead of siding, the
i livingr room and dining room are divided by :1 colonnade, :1 good sized kitchen

 

 

11nd two bed rooms with closets, :1 bath room between the bed rooms and :1
toilet room back of the kitchen. \l'ith wood shingle roof, cement foundation,
yellow pine finish except dining room and living room floors which will be
I: 11 i, II I. .1 , oak, hot :1ir furnace and modern plumbing for about 82700100.

1
L.LL_l U.
l
l
l
I

Cost of plans $11.00. Bill of materials $5.00.
9111100111 130111011 ‘

,1! II |
LlLllJUUUULI

17:00}? EAN.

 

186

Illlll tllllu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.T ”l
—T::——‘~—~_w a ll ET

 

 

 

/

13/ LEFT 5m]: tax/Anon
BED 00M
Plan No. 140

“L11: is It ‘lléill fur a five ruon‘. llLlIl‘UlllHY unil lmtli. The lvuildiiu i.\
l s h

/'2 A12" .

ll) feet wide by 116 feet (leep, front porch 0x18 feet :11va the rear IJOI‘L'lZ fix l'.’
teet, :1 pantry between the (lining room and kitchen.
either \vourl siding or ceii‘vent plaster, yellow pine, finil
and living room, which will be oak, hot air furnace (mil grmrl plumbing, can
be built for about Sllllllllll).

Cost of plans $14.00. Bill Hf materials WHHL

\l'oml shingle roof,
excqxt dining rmun:

37'

  

// /////

 

  

 

T1001? TEA/i

 

l—Ti’O/‘lT ELEVATION.

187

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BATH CHAMBER
[2. 0,. b. 0., 12'— 0.1
/ Q
ha [I 3
KITCHEN
-N \ .
\ HALL \‘1
CLO
Cu‘P UP
I C Lo.
\‘/
Z \ \ s
‘5 Q
I? 1," :2 :3" ’0
‘QLJVI/‘IC, ‘mDDmmc ROOM C HA M1533
fiF—
F 32' o:' 4,
mm —— J,- e
STORY FRONT PORCH , 5
\
PLAN -
OOl:i—_ __J

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

J K

 

Plan No. 141

This pretty t-nttugc with six I'UUIIIS zmrl l>zttll czm l)C lwuilt fur (llmll

1
S'JNUHMH, finished in yellow pine 01‘ lJircli, hut ztii' furnace 1L1’1(l gowl

plumbing. The plzm shows wnml siding part way up then finished with
cement plaster.
"ast 0f plans 558.00. Bill of materials $4.00.

\

    

5’4
Tim/77 ELEVATION.
188

 

 

SECOND STORY PLAN

T—— yo PORCH

ll

 

WIN

TRY

 
   
 

- H ||
II ‘TWEN CHAMBER
14% x I3 _ or
LIBRARY

IZ—éuxlé' |I

CLOSET

ENTRY I

TABLE

flALL "
Livmc Foom

P3
)0
ll /7'1 /6' .
DmmoR’oom
II," x /6' ll
n ' ' -
Q
10
__.+_
§
70
J.

 

II OPEN FbRCH
7

 

§%
§

 

TEST STORY BAH.

Sufi:ELEVATiom

Plan No. 138

A seven room cottage 40x33 feet. The
plain shows wood siding up to tho cornice of
the first story and ulnstered galvlex‘, the ‘mlk
helmv the cornice can also be plastered instead
mf siding. Cement foundation, wood shingles,
paving brick for outside of the chimney.
Cost of this building with yellow pine fiflifill,
vxcep! the living ro<’>m and dinning room
which is figured (ml; \Viih oak floors, steam:
limit, modern pluml’dng, will be about SUM).

LVN: of plans SIIHH). Bill. of mmm‘imh
MUN}.

.\\'l\' for prlt‘US to change plunx‘ :0 wit
you.

189

 

    

TfiomT ELEVATwPi

     

CHAMBER

mtg"): /3'—b"

__._._..-....___._

1.0-sz .CLosiaT
HALL

CfiAflBEE
/l/'-é" I /6'

CHAMBER n\

/L/‘—é"x 12‘4" ,/

i
i
1
I
l

SECOND 5TOEY EAN.

 

 

 

 

 

 

a 'oL—el

 

 

130ch
AL—
CHANBER \[ 0“" Kn-anH i“
:0 3
31> /2'~o' /3'—o"
\
HALL
BATH“ i" 21mm" IHH 111mm
‘0 B
CLO 5? '— 0" rl IL111
w
: LlVI/‘IG AIYDIDl/"1l/“l(; \ '0
Q ~Room .
J CHAMBER 'u
L\ .
\ ‘3‘
40' é" /5'—o"

Plan No. 162

 

 

 

This cement pl 1stere<l cottage 11s \110\\11 C 111 be built for M)()11t‘,~2000. ()0
with 111% ment 1nd 1ttic EB )00. 00 more ’lhe $11110 to be finished in _\ellm\'
pine, wood shingle roof, yellow pine floors. Cost includes plumbing and

 

heating.

j ' Cost 11f 111.1118 958.01). Bill of 1111110111115 EBLUH.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

190

E —'ji—

K ”CHE/V I ll

Iz'uz,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

' I:w Rpm—r 31D:- ELEVATWI‘I.
CLO. . \ \\
I«IALL J /’

‘ Dlmlmo R790

’ )1 | Plan No. 143

I
\__ — J A bungalow which can be either tement plaster or wood siding. The

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

' . . plan shows wood siding to the cornice line and the gables plastered. The
' / ’g H" ‘ l porch IS 10 feet wide, rear porch 7x20 feet. With full basement cement,
’ BED R06”, \ . common interior finish, except the dining room and living room, which
, / ~ will be in oak. <teain heat, modern plumbing, cement porch and cellar floors.
// to Cost as described for about 84500.00. Without cellar $300.00 less.
57/14" I/ 5 —— 2"”: ‘ ' L9 Cost of plans $16.00. Bill of materials $8.00.
I II / I / -HT'RY l 1“» \ l
I / 2'7/ 3 I
— / . PORC H .
l l
L 1 V: m o Rpom I ‘
‘ .0 x/5' '
i ll ‘ |
(\{y/ .\;
~ .—__~ - ,¢_—___, T
L4 '— - '—' ”54% —
4,—— _. L—qu .LI__ .. l 2:! W
:_ :_. ;_; I_' :J‘
so 0
E007? EAN fieorrr ELEV/mom

191

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

19133de [I f
.’ , . . ’ $9":
(.1 V. ' i; 22" ,1 i ' O
’ ’ H‘ 1 -‘ .8
’ J; “ N f v‘ ’ bath ‘rm. Chamber

Dirnhg Tm~ -

~F'RO/‘IT E‘ L. EVATIO/7~
PLASTE‘R‘ EXTERIOR

as“

U/“l.DUbT/"\A/‘l .’
ARCHI'T'E‘LLT

Plan No. 161

A cement plastered cottage 23 1001 front and 30 feet depth, cement
l porch floor and steps, cement foundation wall and floor, wood shingles,
J yellow pine finish, oak floors in living and dining 1‘001115‘, hot air furnace

 

 

 

/ E
—"
Wfld

 

 

 

 

FIR ST éTORY :md good pluinlnng. Cost of building 3200001).
I Cost of plans $101M. Bill of innieriuls $3.00, SEC. OND ETORY

192

 

 

 

 

 

   
     

Chamber

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dunn‘s room

   
 

Lilia tribe 1

 

Ci’udmbz?

  

(1)6)?»sz

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FRO/1T E’LETVATlO/‘I.

 

L'bL“C/‘TD STORV. 55c 0/70 STORY.

Plan No. 160

This cement plastered house is 38 feet in front and 30 feet deep. The
living room is 12x28 feet, dining room 12x15 feet, pantry between (lining
room and kitchen; the stairs from the stair hall and kitchen join on the
same landing and then continue as one flight of stairs, the cellar stairs
are under the kitchen stairs. This house is finished in yellow pine, except
the dining room, stair hall, vestibule and living room which will be finished
in oak. Cement shingle roof, cement porch floors and cellar floor, cement
foundation. Cost about $4600.00. Steam heat and good plumbing.

Cost of plans $20.00. Bill of materials $10.00.

193

KITCHEN
”—ghm—é”

   

4/'

  

 

         
      
 

   

Dmmc Room
/4/ X lé

lemc POOM
/4 ll?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WEST Tioore
TEA/‘1

   

,.

L .

 

'I?.

FRONT ELEVATION

Plan No. 151

This shows a solid cement house 37x41 feet. The first floor has a large
reception hall with the stairs leading to the second floor and under these
stairs the stairs go to the basement with a grade door; the pantry is between
the kitchen and the dining room, the front porch is 10 feet Wide and the
rear ‘3){7 feet, the entry is 6x7 feet and the kitchen Closet 5x6 feet. The
second floor has four bed rooms and a bath room, closet to each bed room
and also one hall closet. This house finished in oak throughout, hot water
heating and modern plumbing for about 355500.00.

(‘ost of plans $20.00. Bill of materials $10.00.

194

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BALCONY
BED Room
12‘ x I&'
Emu
CLo CLa
s HALL
‘N own
4
w
(n
CLO
BED ROOM
II I A5— CLO

FEOF

BED Room
I 3 X ’2

CLO

BED Room
#1 I I6 L6 "

FalfiF OVefFifiecn

 

SECOND lioow TEAM

  

.Pardr),

Dmmg Room Kvlck¢~n

H6“ closd

lethg roonn

  

E¢cp Hell

  
      
   
   

 

 

a £41220»: T r: LEVATIQ/i _,
C omc RETE bpocra RE’filDE/‘lcf”

 

ON“

U /"\ DUST/”\A/‘I
APC,HITEQT

Plan No. 159

A cement block building with the gables plastered with cement, the

porch piers of cement brick. Cement roof shingles and cement porch floor,

, , . also cellar floor. The building is 29 feet wide and 33 feet long, 10 ft. porch
V - in front and (3x8 ft. in the rear, the cellarway from the kitchen has a grade
door. This building, the first floor finished in oak, except the kitchen and

PC. It ' pantry, and the rest finished in yellow pine, hot water heating plant, modern
(“1" ' 7 plumbing, can be built for about 84200.0().
, . _ _‘ Cost of plans $181M). Bill of materials SH ()0.

-F“wsi V’élory pldfl ——-

 

 

 

 

 

{bacond' Story Plan .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

<LJ

 

(

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

_ i'"
I
7|

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

FRO/1T ELEVATlO/‘l.

Plan No. 150

i\ cement plastered house 40 feet frontage and 30 feet deep, the living
room is l3x25 feet, dining room “3x10 feet, kitchen 13x14 feet, the stair
hall is connected with the living room with a colonnade between them,
two mantels, one in the living room and one in the den. The second floor
has four large bed rooms and bath room. Each bed room has a large closet
and also one hall closet. The stairs to the second floor are between the
living room aial the kitchen, the cellar stairs are under the main stairs and
tl‘e attic stairs are over them. This house finished in oak on the first floor,
e<cept the kitchen. and the rest finished in yellow pine or birch, with hot
water heating plant and modern plumbing, can be built for about $5000.00.

(‘nst of plans $22.00. Bill of materials $10.00

196

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   
 

 

  

étcono ETORV.

SCREEHED
Power: :1

[5' ‘7".
'Q
Kch HEN

Q
\

C u‘Pboa rd

‘le/‘I I no Room CHAMBER

N
\

I7.

I

10

LIV l mo,l?oom

'

3‘1 ' o
Freon T POE-C n

,.

27' o

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 136

A five room cottage 332x4‘.’ feet A large living room and den Combined
with only 21 colonnztde between them, the diningr room has a bay Window,
which makes it plenty for light and ventilation, 2t large kitchen, two large
bed rooms with closets, hath room so that it can he entered from both bed
rooms, a screened porch from the kitchen with a Small toilet room. The
front porch is 9 feet wide and has plastered columns, the foundation wall is,
of Cement concrete. Fit:i<hed in yellow pine or l'ii‘clt, hot water heat and
good plumbing, the house will cost Zilwut SL’UUMU.

Cost of plans $14.00. Bill of materials $0.00.

197

my,

pdfll VJ X

K'I‘lc l1e n

Dun-Hg room

 

Ltvmg room
U‘P

 

fit? $7” EDToRY s

 

1““R0/fl' ELEVATION ——
PLASTER EXTERIOR

 

“.0

U/"\ DUST/WAN
ARCHiTEC ‘7‘

Plan No. 153

A cement plastered house 37 feet frontage and 36 feet deep including
the front porch, which you will notice is under the second story bed rooms.
The first story plan has a front vestibule with closet, a large living room
with the main stairs to the sacond floor, sliding doors between the living
l'0( Will and dining room, a rear stairway ‘ii‘ont the kitehen to the second floor.
The second floor has four bed rooms, bath room and plenty of closet room.
This house is finished in yellow pine except the floors in the living and
diningY rooms and the main staii‘s‘ stcant heat and modern plumbing, will
cost about SRQOOIHL

Cost of plans $15.00. Bill or materials $7.00

198

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

L__-___________-__- __-._-___-

$11-qu STORY

 

KlTCHEN‘
DIN l/‘ICPOOM at no'

Mfr/5

lemo Foam
”324'

fieoriT POch

 

fiRST 71001?
FEAN

    

LEFT SIDE 11E VATlO/‘l

 

Wee/WT ELEVATION .

Plan No. 152

A solid cement or cement block house and shingled above the Window
9:11»; _This house is 27 feet in front and 37 feet long}, the front porch is 10
feet nude and the rear 7 feet Wide. The first floor has living room, diningr
room. kitchen, pantry, front vestibule and stair hall, the cellar stairs are
under the main stairs to the second floor. The second floor has three bed
rooms and bath room, plenty of closets. Yellow pine finish except the floors
01 the living room, dining room and stair hall which will be oak, hot air
furnace and good plumbing. Cost about 83500.00.

Cost of plans $1300. Bill of materials $000.

199

BED Room

I244 “x 13 '

 

DOWT‘ch)“ $14 . L’era-ry_

\

 

 

 

 

 

Dmmg room : L'cvmg room

 

FIRST STORY.

 

- FRO/“IT ELEVATION —

leCK A/‘lD PLAb'TE“? EXTERIOR .

~o—_

UN. DUST/WAN
ARCH ITE‘CT

Plan No. 154

A cement plastered house with brick quoins, tile roof, cement foundation
and porch. The living room is separated from the stair hall with a colonnade,
sliding doors to the dining room and lihrzrtry. The dining room is entered
from the kitchen through a large pantry. The stairs to the second floor
are open in the stair hall and can also he reached from the kitchen to the
first platform. The cellar stairs go down from the kitchen with a grade
door. The front porch is 10 feet wide and the rear entry is (3x9 feet. This
nouse is finished in oak, with oak floors. hot water heating and modern
plumbing, for about 354500.00.

Cost 01 plans $20.00. Bill of materials $10.00.
Write for prices for changing plans to suit you, if these are not what
you want,

200

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chambar
TS Chamber
5
rs DOW”
Chamber E Chamber
$5
balc 0117/

 

 

{DECO/‘1 D EDTORY.

    
    
   

Dll’llhg Tm-

 

 

LLVlhg room

FRO/“IT E‘L E'VATIO/‘l.

PLASTE‘ R EXTERIOR.

U./"\ DUST/“\A/‘l.
ARCH lTE‘C T.

Plan No. 155

A cement cottage 20 feet front and 31 feet deep, with six rooms and
bath. The stairs from the living room and kitchen come together on a
platform, then there is one stairway to the second floor. The cellar stairs
go down under the main stairs with a grade door. The front porch is lOXlU
feet and the rear 5x0 feet, with it rear entry Bx? Ieet. The second floor
has three bed rooms, bath room and large closets. Cost with yellow pine
trim and oak floors in living> room and dining room will be about SBSMHH)

Cost OI plans $14.00. Bill of materials 80400.

F'I R 5T EDTO RY.

201

 

 

C115 me‘r

 

 

farce/10 $TORY

 

Panh’,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

‘ , ,
w
F-lm\1 ;‘_ ...,. H Dining room
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up L. - ‘-
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leVd'V il- ; . r‘inor
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Farah

 

 

Fifiis’r SJTOF-tY

3%: :2:1E:

 

This two story house with full basement and large attic,

FRO/~17 i’LE’VATIO/‘i

Plan No. 146

cement

foundation, first story sided with wood siding and the second story cement
plaster, cement or asbestos roof shingles, cement porch, 10 ft. porch in
front and an 8x8ft. porch in the rear, hot water heating plant, finished
in yellow pine or birch-except the living room, dining room, library, vestibule

and first floor hall, can be built for about $4200.00.

front and 30 feet deep.
Cost of plans $18.00.

Bill cf materials $9.00.

202

Building is 34 feet in

Ill

 

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SECOAD 537'on

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chh

 

FIR 3T STORY

 

 

 

FRO/Tl" ELEVATION.

Plan No. 158

An eight room house with cellar under the whole house but no attic.
The porch piers are built of brick, foundation wall cement and the outside
either cement plaster or wood siding. You will notice that the second
story extends over the first story porch. This building finished in oak and
yellow pine, steam heat, modern plumbing, can be built for about 83800.00.

Cost of plans $16.00. Bill of materials $8.00.

203

 

 

 

 

Chamba’

ball: nn

 

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r Dawn '

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chamber

 

 

scaf i
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Cbambcr

Chamber

 

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EDE‘CO/‘ID STORY

 
     
    
    

  

‘REAR

PORC n 0 ad. ‘Dco‘r

 

mo Roan

  

K'ITC HEP!

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‘2 HALL

a - a. FRONT ELEVATIOJ‘L
Worn PORCH i?

Poor «.93ch

L

 

5ECOHD STORYTEAH.
FRST STOK'Y PEA/1.

 

 

 

Plan No. 144

 

A six room cottage with a large stair hull and bath room. The stairs
to the second story are from the front stair hall with a closet underneath.
The stairs to the basement are from the kitchen with a grade door. With
cement block foundation, outside walls sided to the gables and the gables
cement plaster, hard plaster inside, hot air furnace, modern plumbing,
wood shingle roof, can be built for about $2100.00.

 

 

 

ll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

V A
Cost of plans $10.00. Bill of materials $5.00, a _ —:
I it a .
. . . _, ,
.n ' 1;. _— _.
204 View i 310: ELEVATION

 

Pom; n

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SPA/11 1" \ Lo. iBATH
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plume Room 1 Dow,
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pOVC M R 00? 0V9 130ch
27 z) r

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§ LIVING Room LIBRARY i
‘ CHAmBER
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0 oo‘ 68

OO
WST SECOND STORY EAA.
STORY RAH.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan No. 145

Here is :1 very convenient cottage iii feet front and ill) feet deer. The
plan shows cobble stone foundation and porch piers, which can be changed
to stone or cement if the Cobble stone can not be secured. The house is
sided up to the gables and then plastered with cement. The living room
and the library are divided by :1 eolonnade, the living room and dining
room the same. \Yith common finish, steam heat, modern plumbing,
cement porch and basement floors, this building can be built for Zth wut SBNHU

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(‘ox‘t of plans SHIN). Bill of materialx‘ $71M

 

 

 

 

 

?——- WEI

«e'eflnsdg/t‘ Fri mm 1551 125-1,
205 From SIDE ELEVATION

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

32m"
7x7
Chamber 3
le/y
04>an
I clo: <'“ CH} g A
i E '
1 g “
Livin, Rocrn I ' '
22x14 I chamber. a chiml’oir L .Sidc, Elevation. .

' 1111/ l m -

 

 

 

 

 

Frrsr STORY plan baconcl STORY TEAM, 9

Plan No. 117

A well arranged cottage with living room, vestibule, nook, dining room,
kitchen and entry on the first floor; three bed rooms, bath room, four
closets on the second floor. The front porch is 1() feet wide and the rear
8x12 feet. The house is finished on the outside with cement plaster, rough
cast. \Vith yellow pine finish except the floors of the living room and dining _‘ ,
room, will he about $3000.00 including hot air furnace and modern plumbing. ' i' g f :
Size of house Sioxffi‘.) feet on the ground. '

(‘om of plum; $513.00. Bill of material $3.00,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

Won ttlflavation.

206

Clo

CLO

  

        

Dmmo Ram LiVI/‘iG PGOM

HALL

Plan N o. 299

     

‘\ brick veneered residence, finished in \'€U()\\‘ fine, with hard Wm“? _ BEDROOM
Dawn , I b of
“‘ " ‘ ‘ '~\' ‘ ~- 1' ‘ e..u .. ww-* , ATM
REC}? HALL flu n , 11m rur hlIIIJLL and 111016111 plumnmg (m \ .Lm‘L >.,g(y()_ BEDRGDM SEWING
l R”

KITCHEN

  
 

(UM Hf plans SUHHL Bill of mulerizd SSUH.

SECOND KER JEAN

 

7.717 R Y

 
 

FPST Kama? BAA

n cellar

 

jr'fi

 

 

 

 

 

 

CIos.

Krlc‘hen
VP“

Chamber—2 ‘

VP: mi" L l

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Balk room.

0

Dmmg Room.

Chambev- 1 "’5'

meg Room”

Veranda.

 

f‘fRST STORV
FLA” . .—

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan N o. 22

This bungalow, 3—]: ft. by 50 ft., with wood siding, concrete block
foundation, wood shingle roof, hard wood floors and finish was built for
39-1000 complete. The living room extending clear acrOss the front of the
building, with a large fireplace, makes it a very pleasant room. Two rooms
are finished on the second floor. The ceilings are, basement, 8 ft., first, 9 ft.,
and the second story, 8 ft.

Cost of plans with specifications complete $15.00. Bill of material
$7.00. Hot air furnace and good plumbing.

208

    

CHAHBER

Rou-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

l \ ”4“,,” Down

 

 

 

 

    
    
     

("AMBER ‘ lac:

CHANGER

 

TUE-corn: ETORY
PL. AH .

 

    

 

CVP-

   
      
    
 

chhen.

    
   

Panisry Tinned roof

Plan N o. 3

The floor plans shown make a very convenient home, as can be seen by
examining the arrangement of the floor plans. This house finished in yellow
pine with hard wood floors, wood mantel, half pitch shingle roof, hot air
furnace, good plumbing, grade door, attic floor, 8 ft. basement, 9 ft. first
story and 8 ft. second story for 33800. The building is Bl ft. by 48 ft.

Cost of plans 31.3.00. Bill of material $7.00,

Dmmg room.

  
    
   
 
 

   

Silimg “roowx.

Balk room.

Chamber Chamber

 

uP
Chamber

Vcslllaule

  

Fr 1: Story Plan Second Story Plan
1 s

209

 

 

 

 

BARN PLANS, GARAGES
AND

FARM BUILDINGS

 

 

 

 

       

BAR/‘1 RAN n9

 

E

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:3. ____=
ߤa=a __:. @ EH E E E E
ELEVATION
'E—Efiq
Barn Plan No. 301
ticks: STABLE
l T Here is a well arranged barn for cows and horses, with a silo at the

l ‘ end of the cow barn. The main barn is 38x60 feet and the cow barn the

. 1 same size. The cost depends on the kind of material used for the outside

' of the building. “'rite for cost of building, stating the kind of material

I AREA WAY i you intend using.

‘ F . Cost of plans as they are $20.00. Bill of materials 810.00.
S. LO Cow STABLfis J
I .
MAR/1:55

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

__L _ t

P .I—“

CRA m CRA m

 

BOxS‘rALL Box STALL
GROUND EM.

 

 

 

 

2H

 

 

 

 

 

 

FRO/1T VIEW

212

Plan No. 302

Box STAL L

CARRIAGE Ram

 

fiRsT View? EA»:

 

SECOND E42372 TEA/1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Barn Plan No. 302

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This shows a cement block barn with reinforced cement caps and sills,
cement floor, wood shingle roof. The flour plan is 24x32 feet. Cost of
barn $2000.00.

Cost of plans $8.00. Bill of materials $4.00.

 

 

 

 

ALA d a 1.1112

SIDE VIEW

““"““““‘““""”""‘- 213

L-__fi___ _____ __._.___.—-_.__-.--.J

 

 

 

 

CARRIAGE Room

Barn Plan No. 311

This burn is 24x38 feet, solid cement four feet high, the rest of the barn
is of wood siding and wood shingle roof. Cost of burn $1500.00.
Cost of plans $10.00. Bill of materials $35.00.

Box STA LL ““21

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SECOND TECKDR PAN

JTRST fixes BAN

CONCRETE . l__ :2' o"—___—’

EASTER BARN.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STALL
_ BOX BTALL.
Q STALL
.w HARAESS
W
CARRIAGE Room
C—fi’Al/‘I

 

 

 

 

 

 

GROUND TEA/‘1
Barn Plan No. 321

A bum well arranged ZUXBZ feet, cement plaster, wood shingle roof,

ELEVATION cement floor fur alumt Slzmlm

Cost Hf plans 881M. Bill Hf materials $4.00.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

215

BAR/1 TEAM H 9

  

HARNESS

CARRIAGE Room

  

  

 

526'

  

 

CFOUHD TEA/‘1

Barn Plan No. 327
This burn is 2(3x35 feet, solid cement walls 4 feet high and thc 1‘s;
sided with wood shingle roof, cement floor. Cost about ~91200.0().

Cost of plans 558.00. Bill of materials $4.00.

 

E.
SE],
O/‘I

ELEV/mm

216

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I

 

Won T Vle

Barn Plan No. 330

Tim lrcmniful burn 34x7“) for“. wmmu ;r1;1\1v:; $111811], floor. wood
>hinglc rt “'1‘. (‘usL :Hmu: {<1 HNHHI.

Um HI. Ivlanx‘ {\‘UHM, Bill wI‘ mum-rink $3M“.

217

 

TE NDER 5

POOH

 

 

 

 

END VIEW

 

 

 

OFFICE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brick Garage Plan N0. 335

This plan shuws 4L lu‘ivk Humgc SKIN! fu‘t, u‘mcnt flour. [Lu 1w: and
gmvvl rmuf. (Rust almul $IUUUMH.

L‘uxt Hf ylzms SIUUH. Hill «~[111411L‘1‘i41ls SEAN].

218

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

N0. 341

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No. 324

Plans Nos. 5533, $341 and 324
show different makes of fronts for
Garages. If you will send usa (les—
cription of What you want and
the amount of money you want
to spend, we will send you our
prices for plans to suit you.

219

 

N0. 335

COW/1 CRIB

CAPACITY 5000 BU.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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null!”

 

 

 

11E VAT! on
GROUND TBA/1

Plan No. 343
This plan shows a corn crib built on concrete foundation and concu
floor, wood shingle roof.
Cost of plans $5.00.

Bill of materials 5153.00.

220

 

 

fi' I

Box STALL

   

 

    

Bo x STA L L

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

T‘rED HALI

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GROUND PAN

221

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3 I131: VIEW

Dairy Barn N0. 349

A well :erzmgetl lxn‘u with plenty of runm fur hay. The floor plzm i.
31 ft. by .39 ft, \Vritv {Hr lll‘lk‘CS, stating the kinrl Hf mutvriul that, yuu want
I‘nc lmm lmilt (mt Ml“

(,‘ust Hf plmw S‘lJJNL Bill nl‘ mutvriuk $9.1M

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

CATTLE SHED

  

 

  

MACH WT: SHED

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Box 3mm. fi F I

A
~
—

 

 

 

 

 

GROUND FEAm ‘

 

HORSE STALLS

 

222

 

   

 

 

 

if

“II-i
I

 

 

 

 

 

 

5:131“: VIEW

Barn Plan No. 351

   
 

   

 

 

¥
IE ”HEP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

END VIEW

SECTIOAAL VIEW

Barn Plan No. 351

In this plan we show the firxt Ilrmr, end and side View
and sectional Views showing the construction of the frame—
work. The size (If the floor plan is 00x70 feet.

Cost of plans $20.00. Bill of materials $10.00..

 

L_ _-e _ - --_,____ _ _ _ --_-_____-_______-___-__________._ _ - ____. _..._._J

VIEW snowmo COHSTR ucr 10/1

223

 

 

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[17,: __ 711.12:ij TIC—f... ZZZ-.LTL'; TEL—.7: :2: L‘:.'".‘.'. '_"_'.'_ '_:L I: I; L: 11;. -'_. ‘_"“:";_IL:"_‘_‘_‘:_'L‘LT_T_‘ :Z'Z_':_JJ SECTION THROUGH CENTER

   

Barn Plan No. 351

224

MISCELLANEOUS BUILDINGS

BED Foo M

BED Room

 

 

 

 

SECOND E007? TEA/‘1

Plari No. 147

First and second floor plans without an clevzuiwzi for it five roum 1w?)
s1 :ihuut Sjlwtuitm with

siui‘y residence. The Hour plan is 22x38 fccp (.3
yvllnw pine finish.

(~51 mi plums $8.00. Bill Hf materials SUN).

225

STOP}? Pam H2 I STOPE Pam H9 2

DISPLAY

WI/‘IDOW DISDLA Y DWI/mo w

fiR’ST STOPY EA/‘I

EILET

PGDM

JA/‘I ITORS PM

 

326

 

 

  
 
  
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Or-I’Icr: on
OFF-ICE S =
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=
WOMLNS G —
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TOILET , —
TEL Mm =
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rm: E
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CL° OFFICE éup ‘
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ROOM __
OFFICE- 24 {'Down
HALL
CLO , CLO.
OFF—ICE OFT—ICE OFT- I (:7:
TEL. TEL.
OFF-ICE Or—PICE OFFI CE
— — — —_ E'i'i

 

 

SECOND STORY JEAN

UP“ , .
mu3lC‘dl‘lS

g¢LLE$

:properlg WOme n
Tot le 1 V35 T-

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79-? "est

LODGE HA L L

TH mD STODY PAN

pQODEDT T 12 m

 

227

 

 

The store building, shown on pages 330 Ltnll 227, was built ill a cost of
$26,000.00, including it store room in the basement Sllxlfi feet, two cellar
rooms and a furnace room; the coal room is untler the sidewalk. There are
prism lights in the walk next to the building to give tultlitional light in the
basement store room. Modern plumbing, steam heat, electric wiring, tin
roof, hard plaster, oak finish, tile floors in corridors and toilet rooms, all
stairs iron, steel ceiling in lodge hall, pressed brick front, steel trusses over
lodge hall. Plans will be made to suit the owner for any kind of at store
building at 1,143 m of the estimate cost of the building.

SZZ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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N0. 2

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SECTION

 

N0. 3

The

Plan No. 4

shows a double store front with a stairway in the center to the
You will notice that the store entrances are at the side.

second floor.

0

Plans Nos. 2, 3 and 4 show floor plans and elevations of store fronts.
Plan No. 3 shows a center entrance with a store front on the first and second

story having plate glass with small prism lights over the plate.
cornice above the front shows an ornamental cast iron plate with a cast

shows a deep center entrance with a stairway taken off of one side.
iron mould.

Plan No.

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229

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

230

 

 

 

 

23

 

 

I VHV‘

 

 

 

Plate 280

011 pages 3530 and 2231 are shown different cuts of iron stairs for residence
and whee stairs. Plate 280, page 253 , ShOVVS the from View of a double
home, the building has six rooms on each side and can be built for about
SalSUUANL

\\'rite fur flour plunx‘ zmrl prices

 

 

\‘ \x‘c

 

 

 

 

 

 

>Si‘5

 

 

 

 

 

 

No. «3

()n pages L332 (Ulil 3333 :tt‘t' shuwn the interior \‘iews Hf Plan
NH. ll. NH. 1 shmws A \‘ie\‘»‘ Hf the third llnur Hr liilliurrl rnum‘
NH. '3 Hf l)C‘l romn an seetmd lluwr with (t dressingy rrmm, l;t\':;~
turyhnd lurgemirrm‘s tn the left. Xu. 5} shunts the dining rumi‘.
with sidelmztrd and door to kitehen, ztlsu shows the plastered
beam eeiling. This picture was taken lief-“re the lighting fixtures
Were put in plate. No 4 shows Ll. \'lC\\' (if the living room and
library with it eulonnttde between them instead of sliding doors as
marked on the plans. Nu .3 gives IL View ()f the gas grate and
mzmtle (m the set-0nd floor and N0. U gives 8. View Of the front
stairs to the seewnd floor,

23.3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10\\'H two imcrim‘ \‘Inn‘wnvs wi

9 ‘11‘0 s}

‘1‘"

mix’;

11

On

 

234

 

 

 

 

 

()n this page we show fmur different Views
of single residenees, View 381 shows 2t six
rtmm house, eost uhont SillHHHl. View 392,
:i nine 1‘00111 residence, eost about SSSHUMU.
View ‘ 3; {L11 eight room cement plaster house,
Cwst about $5000.00. View 287% at ,seven
mum frame, eost about KISZUIHN). “'rite fur

   

Ilnmr plans and cost of plans.

 

 

 

XL). 283

 

 

 

 

 

7

 

285

 

 

No. 287

On this page, we show fuur mm‘c \‘iCVVS
of houses. No. 383 shows 21 View of :1 (inuhle
house, seven rooms uh «(uh side, (0&1 :0)qu
95320000. No. 2W3 shows :1 Six room frame,
cost about $3200.00. N0. 287 1111 eight
room brick, cost about 555000.00. No. 288, (m
eight room frame, v0.91 about $4000.00.

\Vrite for floor plans and, c051 of plums.

236

 

 

No. 280

 

 

No, 298

 

 

 

 

 

On this page we show the raising of a steel smoke stack 70 feet high and
4 feet across. “'6 make plans for all kinds of factory buildings on a per-
centage basis. We also make plzms for brick and conct ate smoke stacks.

Let us know your wzmts.

 

237

 

KlTCHEH

. ' Plan No. 296

Shows floor plans of an eight room house and bath, with modern
plumbing, hot air furnace and yellow pine finish for about $4000.

I Cost of plans $12.00. Bill of material $6.00.

DmmoFM LJVINC- Room

 

 

SECOND TLooR RAH

 

238

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Plan No. 35

       
   

 

 

 

 

‘ Dmma Room. . . . , . ‘ CHAMBER
This floor plan, 24 ft. bV 32 ft., is one that 15 built qmte Irequentlv,
. - . .- CnAnseR
'l hree good rooms on the first floor and three good SIZCd rooms and sewing
KITCHEI‘I room on the second floor, with hot air furnace and good plumbing, )‘Cllnv.’
pine finish. This house can be built for $2500. ‘
Cost, of plans $12.00. Bill of material $0.00. (“105'
BATH Room.
0 U 5’05. clos,
I 1 Down
--
cl as ,
CHAMBER

RECF. HALL
SEWING ROOM .

)R’oof.

 

 

Second Story Plan

First Story Plan

239

WHEN YOU BUILD YOU WILL NEED WORKING PLANS ANO SPECIFICATIONS

By special arrangement with the author we will furnish the plans shown in this book, complete with specifications, at the prices named in the book. These prices range
from $5.00 to $25.00 according to the estimate cost of the building. A complete bill of materials will also be furnished for the prices named.

WILL SAVE YOU MONEY

No matter what kind of a building you may be going to erect—Residence, Club-House, Public Hall, Church, School House, Barn, etc., you can not proceed intelligently
without a carefully prepared set of plans. These will save you time and avoid a lot of irritating annoyance.

DESCRIPTION OF PLANS

All plans are drawn to a scale of one-quarter of an inch to the foot. A set of plans consist of: basement and floor plans, front, rear and side elevations, construction
of roof, sectional view and detail drawings. Every point is thoroughly covered so that any workman of ordinary intelligence may erect a building without any special assistance
from a superintendent thus saving the expense of a superintendent.

Remember you will get four complete sets of blueprints and specifications with each order for plans.

The bill-of—materials gives the dimensions, quantity and grade of materials that is required to complete the building.

CHANGES MADE IN PLANS

Any of the plans shown can be reversed without any extra charge to you. Should you like the floor plans of one building and the roof plans of another we will make the
desired change at a very low cost. Should you desire any change in the floor plans let us know the changes you would like to have made and we will let you know the cost of
making the change. Read carefully on pages five and six of this book.

KINDS OF BUILDING MATERIALS

Any of the plans shown in the book can be adapted to various kinds of construction such as cement, concrete, plastered, brick-venered, solid brick or frame. Let us know
which you prefer and we will send you the kind you want.
When ordering plans also mention the kind of interior finish you want.

HOW TO GET THE PLANS

Look over the book carefully, and select the one that suits you best. Order by number as given in the book, and enclose postal, or express money order, or bank draft for
the amount named for the plan you wish. Remit to

CHARLES C. THOMPSON CO., Architectural Department, 1126 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago
and the plans will be forwarded to you at once. We also give special attention to drawing plans for Business Blocks, Public Halls, Club Houses, School Houses. etc. Write
us for prices. We can save you money.

 

 

 

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