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EMIN PAS HA

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EMIN PAXSH A

CENT R.Ads »A. WT RIC A.

BEING A COLLECTION OF HIS LETTERS
AND JOURNALS,

EDITED AND ANNOTATED BY

PROFESSOR G. SCHWEINFURTH ; PROFESSOR F. RATZEL ;
DR. R. W, FELKIN ; asp DR, G. HARTLAUB,

Titb Two Portraits, a JINDap, and Motes,

TrANsLATED Bx Mrs. R. W. FELKIN.

LQ N P ON :
GEORGE PHILIP & SON, 32 FLEET STREET:
LIVERPOOL: CAXTON BUILDINGS, SOUTH JOHN STREET,
AXD 45 to 51 SOUTH CASTLE STREET.
1888.

 

H

EE

 

CONTENT S.

 

Ixrropucrion By R,. W. FrELKIN, M.D., FR. GS. .

EMIN PASHA'S LETTERS AND JOURNALS.

I. First JourxEys In tes CoUunTRYy, IN UXYOGRO, AND In

to

GUI

. From Lado up the Nile to Dufilé, July 1877 (Petermann's

Mitteilungen, 1878)

. From Dufilé up the Nile to Mmrunflo on the Albcrt Lake and

subsequently vid Kiroto and Masindi to Mruli, August 1877
(ib. 1878) .

. From Mruli to Rubaga in Loanda, L0» uubu‘ 28 to Dwembcr

18, 1877 (ib. 1878)

. Diary of a Journey from Mruli to the Lapltal of Unyuro and

Remarks concerning Unyoro and its People, September 13
to October 30, 1877 (ib. 1879)

. A Description of the Wanyoro (th. 1879)
. Dufilé to Fatiko, December 27, 1878, to January 8 1879 (zb

1880)

. On Trade and Commence among the W (Wanda and Wanyuro

(Ausland, 1883)

II. JourxEys BETWEEN THE VICTORIA AND THE ALBERT LAKrEs.
1. A Visit to the Victoria Lake, February 13, 1878 (Petermann's

Miiteilungen, 1880)

2. From Rubaga to Mruli, March 28 to Apul 8 1878 (zb 188 )

3+

From Mruli +14 Iauum to Magiuingo, April 13-28, 1878 (ib.
1880) .

4. An Excursion to Lur, on thc W catcrn Shore of the Albert

5.

Lake, November and December 1879 (ib. 1880) §
A Sail upon the Albert Lake, 1885 ( Scottish Geographical

Magazine) _. 7 25246 4

PAGE

50
T3

98

111

124
128

140

162

(d

CONTENTS,

III. Tear Moxsuttu CountRYy.
1. A Visit to the Monbuttu, 1883 (Mitteilungen des Vereins fiir

2.

Erdkunde zu Leipzig, 1887)
Notes on the Monbuttu (L'HWsploratore, 1887)

IV. Ix tur Country or tur Bart andt LaruKka.

I.

ete
t

3+
4.

5.

6.

From Gondokoro through Taringole to Agaru, March 31 to
April 28, 1881 (Petermann's Mitteilungen, 1882) .

From Agaru through Fadibék to F ”uh and back to l‘ambck
May 1881 (1b. 1882) s

From Fadibék vid Obbo to Labore, May “81 (ib. 188 )

From Labore vid Fadibék to lumlm October 1880 (Jittei-
lungen der K.K. Geog. Gesell., Wien, 1882) .

From Fatiko to Fauvera and back, October and hovenlber
1880 (tb. 1882) _.

From Gondokoro to Obbu Much 29 tu Mu) o6 1881 (1b
- . : F R

V. TravELs to tHE Wrst or tus Banr-EL-JEBEL

1.

tJ

Go

Nt

From Lado, on the White Nile, through Nyamrbara to Kediba,
in the Kederu Country, September 15-24, 1881 (Petermann's
Mitteilungen, 1883)

. From Kediba to Biti-Condition of Lhu Amadl D1~Lr1ut

September 24-30 (@b. 1883)

. From Biti to Bufi-The River Lau, Uutubu 9-11 (1b 1883)
. From Bufil to Rumbék, October 22 to November 12, 1881

(lb 1883)

. Rumbék : The Agar and 011101 D111lx‘1 lubu houmbel 12-

15, 1881 (ib. 1883)

. Through the Territory of the (wk to the lmer Iwa and

back to the River Yalo, November 1881 (id. 1883)

. The Lori Country and the Upper Yalo as far as b'ayudin,

November 1881 (@b. 1883)

& Return March to Lado, December 4-135, 1881 (tb 1883)

9. From Bedén, on the White Nile, through Fajelt to Kakiak,

IT.
12.

October 9-17, 1882 (ib. 1883)

. The Kakuik and Fajeli Countries, October 18-31, 1882

(1b. 1883)
Kabayendi and the M; lkmlm uo 188J 2 *
Through the Abakié Country to Gosa, Nov embu 3-17, 1882
(ib. 1883) s s f

PAGE

186
202

 

CONTENTS.

13. From Gosa rid Abukaya and to Wandi,

November 20-26, 1882

VI. Ox tar GrograrHy or PLANTS AND AxtmMans.

I.

L YG oN

al

The Acclimatisation of various Domestic Animals in the
Equatorial Nile Region (Ausiand, 1882)

. Zoo-Geographical Notes (Mutezlungen des Vereins fut Eni-
kunde zu Leipzig, 1887) i * ¥ f

- VIL Ox tHE State or CrviuIsatton axp on
. The Zeribas in the Province of Rol in 1881 (Ausland, 1882) .

. On Exploration, the Labour Question, and Civilisation (ISS.)
. On the Slave Question (JZSS.) . §

On the Agriculture, Commerce, and Admmmtratlon of the
Equatorial Provinces (MSS.)

. The Sudan and the Equatorial Province in the bummer of

1882 (Ausland, 1883) .

. Three Letters to Dr. G. Schw emfuuh (lettezlun gen deb lewzns

fiir Erdkunde su Leipzig, 1887)

. Letters to Dr. R. W. Felkin .

APPEXDIX

IxpEx axp GLrossary

vii

PAGE

390

408
415
420

422
432
438

593
512

523

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PortrRAIT oF Emin PasHa, rrom a ProrograrH By M. L. P. Vosstox,

TAKEN Ar Marcon 1882 . F s &_ Frontispiece.

PortRAIT OF Emin Pasha, FROM A PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN IN GERMANY,

1875 / . + a A » s R & = To face page ix.

Mar or tur EquatorI&L PROVINCE, BY E. G. RavENSTEIN . At end.

 

 

  

 

 

INTRODUCTION.

--4--
i
|

THis volume contains a collection of letters, and extracts from
journals, which Emin Pasha has sent to various correspondents

in Europe during his residence in the Egyptian Sudan.

__ As I have had the pleasure of personal acquaintance with
Emin Pasha, and the advantage of travelling through a con-
siderable portion of the country he has so long ruled, and
have also been in continuous correspondence with him for the
past nine years, the task of writing an introduction to the
book has been entrusted to me ; and although this is a
pleasant duty, it is yet an arduous one, for I find it difficult
to say all I wish with regard to my illustrious friend, and yet
at the same time to write in such a way as may be acceptable
to him.

It must be borne in mind that Emin Pasha has no idea
that these letters are being published in their present form. It
may be well to explain here the reason for their publication.
Until last year, Emin Pasha was a comparatively unknown
man. A few scientists in Germany and in England alone
knew of his existence and of the work in which he was
engaged ; but when, in the end of 1886, I received and pub-
lished letters from him, saying that he still held the Equatorial
Province of Egypt, and requesting help to enable him to main-
tain his post, interest was aroused in him, and his fame rapidly
spread throughout the whole of the civilised world.

Help, too, was soon forthcoming. I proposed that an expe-
dition should be sent to his relief, and the Royal Scottish

x INTRODUCTION,

Geographical Society petitioned Government to assist them in
equipping one. The project, however, was not destined to be
carried out by them, for the Government gave their consent
to a scheme organised by Mr. W. Mackinnon of Ballinakill,
who, in conjunction with several of his friends, sent out an ex-
pedition under Mr. Stanley in January 1887, a sum of [10,000
being subscribed towards it by the Egyptian Government.

In order to satisfy the desire expressed by Germans to
know more of their countryman, Professor Ratzel of Leipzig
and Professor Schweinfurth of Cairo undertook to publish a
collection of Emin Pasha's letters, feeling that this was the best
way of making him known; and it is in consequence of the
interest felt in him in our own country, that the publishers of
this English edition are induced to present a translation of
the German work to the British public It is hoped that it
will meet with that appreciation which the letters and journals
deserve, full as they are of interesting details concerning the
geography, botany, zoology, and, above all, the ethnology of the
very heart of Africa, and dealing, as they do, with a desperate
struggle for liberty and civilisation, carried on single-handed by
a European, within the stronghold of slavery and barbarism.

As I have often been asked, "'Who is Emin Pasha?" I
will quote a few sentences about his past life from the Intro-
duction to the German edition of this book :-

"It is not our intention to give here a biography of this
important man ; his name belongs to the history of our times,
and his work is, please God, not nearly finished. Emin Pasha
forms at the present time the central point around which all the
interest in Central Africa revolves, and now that it is generally
known that the Arabic name 'Emin' is only a cognomen
chosen by a German in partibus inflidelium, curiosity is
aroused, and people are making all kinds of speculations as to
his birthplace. We therefore consider it our duty to give a
few facts concerning his early life which have been supplied to
us by his nearest relations.

INTRODUCTION. xi

© Eduard Schnitzer was born on the 28th of March 1840 in
Oppeln, in the Prussian province of Silesia. - He is the son of
the late Ludwig Schnitzer and his wife Pauline, both Protes-
tants. - His father was a merchant. The family removed in
1842 from Oppeln to Neisse, where the mother and a sister of
our friend still reside. After being educated in the Gymnasium
of Neisse, Eduard Schnitzer commenced the study of medicine
in 1858 at the Breslau University. - He completed his medical

education in Berlin, where he attended the University during

~1863 and 1864, and graduated.

« A strong desire to travel and a great love for Natural

‘ History, which distinguished him as a boy, led the young

medical man to look for a sphere of work in a foreign land.
He left Berlin at the end of 1864, and went to seek a practice
in Turkey. Chance led him to Antivari and Scutari, where
he obtained the confidence of the Vali Mushir Divitji Ismail
Hakki Pasha, from whom he received a post on his staff, and
whom he accompanied on his official journeys throughout the
various provinces of the extensive district under his jurisdic-
tion. In this way Schnitzer became acquainted with Armenia,
Syria, and Arabia, and at length arrived in Constantinople,
where Hakki Pasha died in 1873.

"In 1875 Dr. E. Schnitzer paid a visit to his family in
Neisse, and remained there for a few months, devoting his
leisure hours to the study of Natural History. Suddenly,
however, the desire for travel came over him again ; he went

| by the nearest route to Egypt, and, in 1876, we find this

enterprising man entering the Egyptian service as Dr. Emin
Effendi. - He was ordered to join the Governor-General of the
Sudan at Khartum, and from there was sent to act as chief
medical officer in the Equatorial Province. of Egypt, of which

Gordon Pasha was then Governor.

" Gordon was the very one to value a man like Emin, and
to use to the full his gifts and powers. He sent him on tours
of inspection through the districts which had been annexed

xii

to Egypt, and employed him upon several diplomatic missions.
In March 1878, after Gordon Pasha had been appointed
Governor-General of the whole Sudan, Dr. Emin Effendi
received from him the appointment of Governor of the Equa-
torial Province, which post he has occupied up to the present
time."

I must quote one more passage from the German Introduc-
tion, as it refers to Dr. E. Schnitzer's reason for adopting a
Turkish name, which proceeding appears to have greatly exer-
cised many people's minds :-

"From the very first this determined man threw himself
heart and soul into his work, and as he sought a sphere of
labour amongst people of foreign customs and modes of
thought, he was perfectly willing to give up every external
indication which might stand in the way of his obtaining an
unhampered entrance into the Mohammedan world. Far away
from large cities where, under the guise of fashion, European
habits are continually undermining the ancient and crum-
bling customs of Islam, and at the same time covering them
with a thick varnish, there obtains a certain distrust of a
solitary European, which prevents the intimate relation that
should characterise the intercourse of a doctor with suffering
mankind. The German humanitarian believed it only possible
to fulfll his office satisfactorily by permitting no external
evidence of his Frankish origin to appear. The name he chose
for this purpose was Emin, ' the faithful one," and certainly no
one has ever proved himself more worthy of bearing such a
name as the description of his character. It would no doubt
have been impossible for him to have done so much had he
retained his German name. An extraordinary gift for the
acquisition of foreign languages lightened his task, for, besides
German, French, English, and Italian, he mastered several
Slavonic languages, as well as Turkish and Arabic. H6 also
commenced to learn Persian, and who knows in how many
Central African dialects he may not be now at home ?

TNTRODUCTION. xii

" How quickly and thoroughly he was able to adapt himself

to a foreign mode of life, may be seen from a letter which the
«Doctor wrote from Trebizond in January 1871 to his sister,
an extract of which has been sent to us by Lieutenant George
Schweitzer, his cousin:-' Here in Trebizond, too, my good
fortune has not forsaken me, and I have quickly gained a
reputation as a doctor. This is due to the fact that I know
Turkish and Arabic as few Europeans know them, and that
I have so completely adopted the habits and customs of the
people that no one believes that an honest German is dis-
guised behind the Turkish name. Don't be afraid ; I have
only adopted the name, I have not become a Turk."

" On no account must any one imagine that our countryman
is a renegade, or that he has given up the faith of his fathers.
Emin does not belong to those half-hearted Christians who talk
about the advantages of the Mohammedan religion as a civi-
lising agent in Africa. On the contrary, it may be seen from
many of his letters that he has the heartiest sympathy with
the efforts of Christian missionaries.* A crushing fact for the
future of Islam in Central Africa is mentioned by him on
page 414, where he says that, after more than twenty years'
dominion, they can hardly point to ten proselytes." v

In order to form, to some extent at least, a just estimate of
what Emin Pasha has accomplished during the past few years,
it is very necessary to consider briefly his work as a Governor.

When Gordon Pasha left the Equatorial Province of Egypt
to become, a few months later, the Governor-General of the
whole Sudan, he lefé it well organised and peaceful, Its
financial position was not so satisfactory, for the province
laboured under an excessive debt, caused in part by the
initial expenses of its occupation, and also by sums not

* Emin Pasha was very anxious for the Church Missionary Society to establish
mission stations in his province, and offered to support a missionary party there
for three years at his own expense. In 1878-79 he rendered considerable assist-
ance to an expedition sent by the C. M. S., vid the Nile, to Ugdnda,.

xiv INTRODUCTION.

justly belonging to it having heen debited to it by various
Governors of the Sudan, sometimes with the object of free-
ing their special province from inconvenient debts, and some-
times in order to cook their own accounts, which were not
always in a flourishing condition.

After Gordon Pasha left for the wider sphere of work, his
place was at first filled by Colonels Prout and Mason, who,
however, only held office for a few months, as they both had
to retire on account of ill health, Then followed a succes-
sion of incompetent native Governors, under whose abominable
rule the province rapidly deteriorated to a pitiable condition.
Oppression, injustice, brutality, and downright robbery grew
like the Upas tree, and it was under these conditions that
Emin Effendi was entrusted by Gordon Pasha with the reing
of office.

Up to this time, Emin had been the surgeon-in-chief of
the Equatorial Province; he had often travelled throughout
its length and breadth in company with his chief, Gordon
Pasha, from whom he had learnt much, and whose work he
so much admired, as is clearly indicated in this book.*
During this time he became intimately acquainted with
native character, and was entrusted by Gordon Pasha with
three very difficult diplomatic missions-two visits to Uganda
and one to Unyoro. This, however, was all the experience
he had had when placed in power, and at first his difficulties
were greatly increased by want of a definite rank, for, although

* Gordon Pasha's opinion of Emin may be gathered from his appointment of
him to such a responsible post as Governor of the Equatorial Province, and I can
bear testimony to the fact that he held him in high esteem. After my return
from the Sudan, I had several conversations with Gordon Pasha about Emin, and
he invariably expressed his high appreciation of his services as a Governor, and of
his varied accomplishments. He remained in correspondence with Emin until
communications with the Equatorial Province broke down, and during his resi-
dence in Palestine he wrote more than once inviting Emin to pay him a visit.
These invitations were very welcome, and in a letter I received from Emin he
expressed his great satisfaction that his former chief was still so much interested
in his work, and continued to entertain for him a deep personal regard.

INTRODUCTION. xv

appointed Governor, no rank had been given to him on account
of the intrigues of some Khartum officials.

The state of his province in 1878, when he accepted the
post of Governor, is difficult to describe in a few words. The
population consisted of numerous and varied tribes, who, having
once experienced the beneficent rule of Gordon Pasha, had
suffered greatly from the oppression and cruelty of his suc-
cessors, and there was also a scattered population throughout
the country, consisting of former slave-dealers and many of
their late employés, who were settled in small fortified villages
over the land, and who had recommenced their nefarious prac-
tices. The officials, too, for the most part, were disreputable
men; the greater number of them were criminals, who had
been banished from Egypt, and after undergoing their sentences,
had been taken on into Government employ. The Egyptian
soldiers were very unreliable, and their acts of oppression were
resented by the natives, and tended to bring about continual
friction between the Administration and the mass of the popu-
lation. Added to all this, many of the stations themselves
required rebuilding, and a block in the Nile prevented all sup-
plies being sent to the Equatorial Province for the first two
years of Emin's rule. It is not to be wondered at, therefore,
that the cares of government rested heavily upon him. Constant
journeys had to be made, daily complaints arrived from all sides
of difficulties between officials and native chiefs, and a continual
round of stated duties filled up his time from sunrise to sunset.
Many a man would have shrunk from undertaking the respon-
sibility of inducing order out of such chaos. Not so Emin
Effendi. Slowly but firmly, and with ever-increasing success,
he became master of the situation, and when I passed through
his province for the second time, in 1879, a most wonderfal
change had taken place. Stations had been rebuilt, discontent
was changed into loyal obedience, corruption had been put
down, taxation was equalised, and he had already begun the
task of clearing his province from the slave-dealers who infested

xvi INTRODUCTION.

it. This was a difficult and dangerous undertaking, for they
had rooted themselves very firmly in the soil, and most of the
officials in Emin's employ were in full sympathy with them,
Emin was entirely alone; no friend or helper was near.
Indeed, with the exception of a few months when Lupton Bey.
was his second in command, he has been alone from the day of,
his appointment in March 1878 until the present time. When.
at Lado, he had also other duties to perform ; the chief hospltal
of the province was there, and every morning he might be seen,
at 6 am. going round its wards or engaged in prescribing for?

 

 

the numerous patients. ©
By the end of 1882, Emin Bey (for he received that title at
the end of 1879) had the satisfaction of being able to report,
that not only was his province in a state of peace and content-
ment, but that he had entirely banished the slave-dealers from
his borders. He had also got rid of nearly all the Egyptian .
soldiers, replacing them by natives whom he had trained to
arms.* - He had added large districts to his province, not by the -
use of the sword, but by personal negotiation with native chiefs.
To all this must be added the cultivation of cotton, of indigo,
of coffee and rice, the establishment of a regular weekly post
through his dominions, the rebuilding of nearly all his stations,
the construction of better and more permanent roads, the in-
troduction of camels, and the transport of goods by oxen; and 1
last, but not least, he was able in that year to show a net y
profit of £8000, whereas on his taking up the reins of govern- &
ment, there was a deficit of £32,000 per annum. 'The com-»&
mercial value of the province may be estimated by this successful

Saeco

dije

state of affairs, which was brought about notwithstanding the a
fact that during the six years, 1878-84, only nine steamers@t

* Although not a soldier by profession, Emin was obliged to act as Commander- -t
in-Chief as well as civil Governor of the Equatorial Province. - Referring to this, zi
he remarks in one of his letters :-*" What will they expect next from an M.D.? IV
have been made a Governor, and now I am expected to try and qualify as as
* General in strategy ' ! "

yo

rere

INTRODUCTION. xvii

had been sent from Khartim to Ladd, and only six of these
had carried supplies.

From the 8th of October 1878, the day on which I first met
Emin Pasha, up to the present time, my admiration and respect
for him have steadily increased. It is impossible to become
thoroughly acquainted with any one in a very short time, but
perhaps the best chance of getting to know a man's character
quickly is afforded by a meeting such as I experienced with
Emin Pasha in the heart of Africa, and shut off completely
from the civilised world. Under such cireumstances, if they
possess any points in common, men are rapidly drawn together ;
and there is certainly a wonderful keenness of enjoyment in
such intercourse, contrasting as it does so completely with
the isolation, often experienced for months or years together,
by men whose work lies in such remote regions as that which
Emin Pasha has made his home.

Perhaps the thing that struck me most about Dr. Emin
during my stay with him was the genuine interest he took
in scientific work. Readers of this volume will not have
turned over very many pages before they discover that he
thought no amount of trouble too much, in order to find some
new plant, or make a fresh discovery about the growth of a
tree or the habits of an animal. Marvellous minuteness and
accuracy characterise all his work, and are shown not least in his
letters, which are written in elegant language, with exquisite
neatness, and in an almost microscopic hand. He is a born
naturalist, and a scientific spirit seems to pervade all his
doings.

He never allowed his favourite studies interfere in any way
with his official duties, and was often obliged to forego the

'pleasure of completing an observation or investigating some
interesting fact, because of the imperative calls of duty.

It is this high sense of duty which has prevented his
solving many riddles in African geography. It may have been
thought that, with all his undoubted opportunities, he would

b

xviii INTRODUCTION.

4

have been anxious to set at rest the surmises on many moot |
points, but to have done so his duties would have had to be .

fulfilled in a half-hearted manner; and so, forgetful of self, and -

not seeking the applause of the world, he has been content to
go quietly on his way, performing his official work conscien-
tiously and well, only devoting to scientific pursuits the hours

j

of darkness and the necessary delays which occurred during .

his frequent official journeys. For this I think he deserves
the greater honour, in that, in spite of such difficulties, he has
achieved an amount of work which would have been a credit
to a man unhampered by official cares.

Another striking trait of his character which called forth
my admiration was his unselfishness. _ His whole heart seemed
to be centred in the welfare of his people and the advance-
ment of science, and no idea of fame appeared to enter his
mind. His interest, too, in the work being done by others
seemed to be quite as keen as that he took in his own. This
characteristic is shown in his letters, by many references to
Dr. W. Junker, of whom he speaks with great admiration, and
in whose intrepid labours and valuable work he took a deep
interest.

It will be seen from these remarks, that Emin possesses
some of those high qualities which ennoble any life, and which
have enabled him to live his life and do his work alone and
unobserved, with a wonderful steadiness of purpose and with
remarkable success.

Emin. was ever ready to give advice when asked, although .
he never obtruded his superior knowledge, and the modesty
with which he gave his opinions possessed in itself a charm.
I often consulted him with regard to the treatment of disease-
in Africa, and in this connexion he gave me many a valuable
clinical lecture; but his suggestions were always made with
the greatest regard for my feelings, and without any attempt,
to overpower me with the extent of his knowledge and
experience.

ermal io

INTRODUCTION. xix

I may here, I think, quote an extract from a letter which
bears upon the subject of medical practice and shows the spirit
in which Emin carries on his work as a physician :-" Well I
remember the day when I received the magic title of Doctor
of Medicine, and thought that then the whole world was my
own. May far happier days and greater successes be granted
you than have been granted me! But may I give you a word
of warning ? - Keep yourself well in hand, and do not follow
without very just cause the too modern developments of
medicine. A sick man is no subject, but a feeling and suffer-
ing being, whose sensibility is greatly heightened. - Be to your
patients in the first place friend-then doctor. Our mission
is a high and holy one, and the murmured thanks of a poor
man is of far higher value than a few guineas, and the know-
ledge that one has saved a sick child for its mother is a far
more beautiful reward than can ever follow a brilliant but risky
operation or the humbug of the so-called © selentlhc medicine."
Do not laugh at my words. I have grown old and grey in
the battle of life, but it is just this Idealism which has helped
me over many a bitter hour. My strife and work draw near
to their close."

It must be remembered, in this connexion, that it is now
many years since Emin visited Europe, and that he has, there-
fore, not been able to keep abreast with all the advances which
medicine. has undoubtedly made. This is not his own fault.
In almost every letter he asks for medical journals, as well as
for information on new methods of treatment, and he has always
shown great appreciation of the few papers he received from me.
Unfortunately, the means of communication with him is so
uncertain that many of the books I sent have never reached
him.

I remember, too, with gratitude, the pains he took to teach
me how to construct a map and how to make many an observa-
tion, which subsequently proved of great value to me. After re-
turning from Uganda, he plotted out with me my first attempt

Xx INERODUCTION.

at laying down a route, and his pleasure was very great

when he found that I had so profited by his instruction that

the route I had constructed coincided very accurately with his ‘

own.
The letters and papers which are to be found in this volume

are running notes of Emin's work, written for the information
of personal and scientific friends. In nearly all cases personal
matters have been omitted. The notes were written under

great difficulties when on the march, and they reflect the,
passing thoughts and conjectures of the man's mind. A,
certain amount of repetition will of necessity be found in the.

earlier letters. It might, perhaps, have been better to omit
parts of them, but to have done so the German text must
have been ignored and connecting sentences introduced. It
has therefore been thought best to keep closely to the German
original, the more so, perhaps, as the frequent repetition of

marches through impenetrable grass, banana groves, thorny.
jungles, and swamps, will prove to the reader far better than

any words of mine can do, the dogged perseverance of the

man, who, notwithstanding the immense physical fatigue from

which he was constantly suffering upon these expeditions,,

plodded on, note-book in hand, never permitting a noteworthy

fact to escape his eye or a detail of scientific interest to go |

unremarked. 'The descriptions, too, of the details of these
journeys give an accurate idea of the topography of the country,
and will prove of value not only to future travellers, but, I
hope, to traders, missionaries, and others who will take part in
the opening up of the country. When reading over the proofs
of this volume, I have been repeatedly struck with the vivid
picture given of paths over which I have myself had occasion
to tread. I am able to recall the very trees, the huts, and

even the swampy places which Emin so faithfully portrays, I

and can almost feel again the sting of the numerous insects
which he describes as specially haunting particular spots.
While I do not expect the readers of these letters to be

A

MP Laue wa.

INTRODUCTION. xxi

quite so vividly affected as I am, I shall be surprised if they
do not gain a better knowledge of Central Africa from their
perusal, than they would by reading many of the histories of
travel elaborately got up for the press. The descriptions, too,
which Emin Pasha gives of the people and their habits and
customs, are life-like and extremely accurate, and coming, as
they do, from one who has lived in the country so long, they
are far more valuable than accounts written by travellers,
whose knowledge of the various languages is necessarily very
slight, and who are liable to make many mistakes owing to
the intervention of an interpreter. - Moreover, it is almost
impossible for an ordinary traveller rapidly passing through a
district, to become intimately acquainted with the inner life of
the people with whom he only sojourns for a few days.

In order that the reader may follow Emin Pasha's wan-
derings with ease, I append as a note a summary of his
exploratory expeditions, which Mr. Ravenstein of London has
had the kindness to draw up for me, and a reference to Mr.
Ravenstein's admirable map will greatly facilitate an intelligent
appreciation both of the extent of the Equatorial Province and
of Emin Pasha's numerous journeys.*

* Summary of Emin Pasha's Exploratory Expeditions, 18746-87:-

With Gordon Pasha up the Nile and to Mrili. First mission to Ugdnda, with
Nur Aga (Mruali to Rubaga and back), June to September 1876. With Gordon
Pasha to Nyamnyonga and back, September 11-18, 1876. Mruli to Masindi,
Magungo, Lake Albert (Kibiro) and down the Nile to Khartim (arrived
November 1876).

Ladd, up the Nile to Magungo, and vid Kiroto and Masindi to Mruli, July to
August 17, 1877.

Mission to King Kabréga of Unyoro, September 13 to October 30, 1877.

Second mission to Uginda, November 29, 1877, to April 8, 1878.

Mruli to Magingo, April 13-28, and back to Ladd.

To Shambe and the lower Bahr-el-Jebel, June and July 1878.

_ Second visit to the lower Bahr-el-Jebel, and examination of the obstructions
in the river, November 21-25, 1878.

Dufilé to Faloro and Fatiko and back, December 27, 1878, to January 8, 1879.

Visit to Lake Albert, March 1879.

To the western shore of Lake Albert (Lr) and back to Dufilé and Ladd,
October to December 1879.

TNTRODUCTION.

With regard to the orthography of native names and places,
Mr. Ravenstein has made it agree throughout the whole book,
and the method of spelling recommended by the Royal Geo-
graphical Society has been followed. He has also provided a.
glossary in conjunction with the index, which not only gives
the meaning of many native expressions, but the latitude and.
longitude of the places mentioned. This adds greatly to the
value of the book to future travellers and explorers. j

Dr. Gustav Hartlaub of Bremen has appended a note to the,
German edition, giving his opinion of the services which Emin.
has rendered to zoology. I quote a few passages from it. He
says :-" The amount of work which Emin Pasha has performed
in making zoological collections, observations, and notes, is
astonishing in the highest degree. It could only have been
performed by a man whose heart was aglow with the pure fire.
of scientific instinct, with enthusiastic, absolutely unselfish love
of Nature, and with an irresistible impulse to add to the know-
ledge of her treasures to the full extent of his powers. Emin

Vin > : 6 cient

was able to turn this impulse into action, notwithstanding the,
pressure of difficult surrounding circumstances, and the many.
and varied duties which his high position compelled him to
fulfil.

*The thousands of splendidly prepared skins, chiefly his.
own work, which Emin Pasha has either sent to Europe or'

Ladd to Makrakd-Sugaire and back, August 1880. Lado to Laboré, Fadibék,
Fatiko, Fauvera, and Panyatoli (Anfina's), and back to Fatiko and Widelai,
September 25 to November 28, 1880.

Gondokéro to Latika, Agaru, Fadibék, Fajalli, Obbo, and Laboré, March 30.
to May 26, 1881.
Ladd to the mudirié of Rol (Rumbok) and and back, September
15 to December 15, 1881. '

To Khartim, March to June 1882. $

Beden to Janda, Kabayendi, Ombamba, (Gosa, Manda, Makraki-Sugaire, f
Wandi, and Ladd, October 9 to December 5, 1882. $

Ladd to the Monbuttu country and back, May 7 to October 15, 1883. g

Ladd to Widelai (arrived July 10, 1885). $

Navigation of Lake Albert and first exploration of the Dueru River, August.h
to October 1886. ¥

Second exploration of the Dueru, February or March 1887,

Visit to King Kabréga at Mpara, May 1887. -E. G. R.

 

poem

INFRODUCEION. xxii

has at the present time stored in Lado or Widelai, prove how
well he understands the art of collecting. His work in the
districts he has explored in the eastern part of Equatorial Africa,
has been that of a pioneer in zoological, and especially in orni-
thological, subjects. The zoological work he has accomplished
in central Monbuttu-and it was very great, considering his
short stay there-is completely new, and judging from the
hints given in his letters, we may expect a rich harvest of
discoveries. A journal which Emin Pasha has sent me, but
which he has forbidden me to publish at present, contains an
immense quantity of interesting information as to the habits of
the animals he has caught, with especial reference, however, to
birds."

Notwithstanding all the service which Emin Pasha has
rendered to zoology, to which alone Dr. Hartlaub has referred,
it must be borne in mind that botany too has benefited to a
very large extent by his painstaking researches-to what ex-
tent will only be known when the large collection of plants which
he has made reaches Europe. It can easily be seen, however,
from his letters, what a deep interest he takes in botany, and
the experimental cultivations which he has carried on are of
immense value in proving, not only the fertility of the country,
but also the possibility of cultivating various commercial plants
in districts where their growth had been doubtful.

To general readers, one or two chapters in this book may
not be quite clear. I refer especially to Parts v. 2 and
vii. I, in which Emin deals with the slave-trade and the
misery caused by the settlement of Danagla in various dis-
tricts. I call especial attention to this, because I have stated
in several publications that he had completely banished slave-
dealing from his province; and so he had; but on the recall
of Gessi Pasha in 1882, Lupton Bey was made Governor
of the Bahr-el-Ghazal province, and the provinces of Rol,
Makrak&, and Monbuttu, which had been previously governed
by Mula Effendi, were transferred to Emin's jurisdiction.

xxiv INTRODUCTION.

This accounts for his new difficulties, and these letters were
written whilst he was engaged in the arduous task of freeing
these new districts from the active slave-traffic that was going
on. - He was completely successful, and it was only after the
Mahdi's rebellion that he was compelled to withdraw his
troops from these outlying districts, where the slave-trade then
recommenced. é
Speaking of the Mahdi's rebellion, a very concise and in-
teresting account of its commencement and progress is given
by Emin Pasha in Part vii. 6 (p. 432), and the later letters
also refer to it, in its effects upon the Equatorial Province.
Emin's dealings with the natives are worthy of notice. He
has always been patient in the extreme with them; he has a
high opinion both of their intelligence and their capabilities ;
he respects their peculiarities, their modes of thought, and
their beliefs, and the influence which he is able to exert upon
native chiefs is very remarkable. His dealings with Mtésa
and Kabréga were characterised, not only by a keen sense of
justice, but also by a thorough appreciation of their various
needs, Mtésa had the highest respect for him, and on several
occasions he expressed to me his appreciation of the way in
which Emin had preserved his independence, when it was
threatened by the injudicious action of Nur Bey, who had
marched to his (Mtésa's) capital with three hundred Egyptian
soldiers with the intention of annexing Uginda to Egypt.
This action of Nur Bey's, by the way, was in direct opposition
to Gordon Pasha's orders. Emin's power over the natives may
also be gathered from the fact that he entered into friendly
relationships with so many of the petty native chiefs whose dis-
tricts adjoined his province. - One after another began to trade
with him, and sooner or later, with very rare exceptions, they
asked him to extend Egyptian authority over their lands, and
without a shot being fired they became tributary chiefs. They
recognised that it was to their advantage to do so, for, once
having placed themselves under his beneficent rule, they

1
i
1

INTRODUCTION, xxv

knew well that their district was safe, both from the slave-
trade and from the raids which the Egyptian troops so fre-
quently made into the outlying districts.

I must touch upon one other point. Emin Pasha refers in
many places to the trouble he suffered from limited authority.
Baker and Gordon were absolutely independent of any central
authority at Khartim ; they had the power of life and death,
and were responsible to the Khedive alone for their actions.
Not so Emin. He was obliged to report almost every detail of
administration for the approval of the Governor-General of the
Sudan, and when one considers that months, sometimes years,
elapsed before he received an answer to his communications, it
will be readily understood how greatly his hands were tied,
and how difficult it was for him both to maintain order and
to introduce improvements into his province. With regard
to the commercial administration of the province, it was the
old story over again-the Egyptian Government requiring
the bricks to be made and refusing to provide the straw.
Emin could not obtain supplies from Khartim, and even the
seeds which he required for cultivation experiments had either
to be purchased with his own money or to be begged from his
numerous friends. What wonder that the Equatorial Province
did not prove a gold-mine! The wonder is that, left to his
own resources, he was able in so few short years to trans-
form the finances of the country, and, instead of holding his
province at a yearly deficit at some £32,000, to make a nett
profit of from eight to twelve thousand pounds per annum, as
he did from 1882 to 1884.

The difficulties and dangers which disturbed the Equatorial
Province in consequence of the evacuation of the Sudan are
described in Emin's letters. He was himself unaware of the
events which were taking place north of his territory, but it
was orly too evident that the prosperity of his province was
threatened, and he had a desperate struggle for its very
existence. At length the Mahdi's hordes began to retire, and

&xyi INTRODUCTION.

Emin was subsequently able to recover most of the ground
he had lost. In October 1886 temporary aid arrived in the
shape of a caravan from Uganda with supplies from Dr.
Junker. Emin speaks of the almost childish joy with which
he and his people welcomed this caravan. In April 1887
he heard that help was probably coming from England, and in
a letter written to me then he says :-" You can imagine better
than I can tell you that the heartfelt sympathy which has
been expressed for me and my people in England . . . have
richly repaid me for many of the sorrows and hardships I have
undergone." The news has not yet reached us of the arrival
of the expedition, which Mr. Stanley has led with his usual
undaunted courage and perseverance, but it is to be hoped
that long ere this he has clasped hands with Emin and given
him the help and encouragement which he so well deserves.

It will be noticed how firmly Emin states his intention of
remaining at his post until the future of the country he has
ruled so long and of the people in whom he takes so much
interest be settled. He says :-"The work that Gordon paid
for with his blood, I will strive to carry on, if not with his
energy and genius, still according to his intentions and with his
spirit;" and, again, his concluding words are :-* All we would
ask England to do is to bring about a better understanding
with Uganda, and to provide us with a free and safe way to
the coast. This is all we want. - Evacuate our territory ?
Certainly not!" I feel sure that those who read this book
will honour him for his decision, and will understand the need
of keeping up a judicious and firm rule in the country which
he has saved from slavery and barbarism. If it is developed
in such a way that the good of the people be secured, it will
form a centre of civilisation and liberty to the whole of Central
Africa.

In order that Emin may continue his work, it will be

necessary for a trade route to be opened up between the east
coast and the Equatorial Province. It is not my intention

INTRODUCTION. xxvii

to give here my opinions about the future of the province, or
the way in which I think that the Central African Question
should be solved ; but there is no doubt at all that if wise
measures are set on foot, Emin's desire for a " safe road to
the coast" may soon be realised, and a way opened up from
the Equatorial Province to some port, either Mombasa, or, as
Mr. Ravenstein has suggested, to Kismayu. Supposing for a
moment that the latter port were chosen, the transport ques-
tion would be greatly simplified. It will be noticed in one of
Emin's letters (see p. 390) that he had already introduced
camels into his province from Turkan, and there is every reason
to suppose that the whole of the country between Lirem,
one of Emin Pasha's stations, and Kismayu, might be traversed
by camel-caravans at a rate of some twenty-five or thirty miles
a day. The distance as the crow flies from one point to the
other is about 650 miles, no great distance surely ; and as the
people who inhabit the lower districts, the Masai, are really
akin to the Latuika and Lingo, with whom, as may be seen
from Emin's letters, he has no difficulty at all in dealing, it is
only reasonable to suppose that, with care and patience, a trade
route could be opened up with very little expenditure of either
time or money. Indeed, some such arrangement must be come
to, unless it is the intention of this country to relinquish all
participation in the commercial activity which is daily receiving
greater impetus in Eastern Africa, to abandon to anarchy
districts which would well repay any present expenditure, and
to relinquish to others the fruits of the labour of many a
British explorer, and of a generation of diplomatic and com-
mercial effort on the east coast of Africa.

Two portraits of Emin Pasha are given in this volume. The
one was taken in Germany in 18735, and appears in the Ger-
man edition ; the other (the frontispiece) is from a photograph
taken by the French Consul at Khartim in 1882, and has
been specially prepared for this book.

Knowing the trials with which my friend has had to contend,

xviii INTRODUCTION,

I appreciate to the full the noble, self-denying efforts he has
made, and I realise the difficulties of his present condition. I
therefore conclude with the wish that the readers of Emin
Pasha's letters may learn to know and appreciate him as I .
have done, and may share my hope that he will be enabled to
carry on the work, which he has for so many years, and under -
such great difficulties, successfully accomplished. In every
sense he is Gordon's heir, and I trust to my fellow-country-
men having public spirit enough to support him in his work -
of civilisation, and to prevent the relapse of the Equatorial
Province into the hunting-ground of the slave-dealers, or its
conversion into a mere field for commercial exploitation.

ROBLRT W. FELKIN,.

20 Anva STREET, EDINBURGH,

February 14, 1888.

 

 

 

EMIN PASHA'S LETTERS
AND JOURNALS.

1:

FIRST JOURNEYS IN THE MALDI COUNTRY, IN
AND IN UGANDA.

 

I. Froxr L&bG Up tur NiL1g to

(Letter to Dr. A. Petermann, from Dufilé, July 16, 1877.)

- BEDEN-KIRI-DEFORMITIES OF THE BARIL WOMEN-WILD ELEPHANTS-
LABORE-KHOR-ET-TIN.

._ As you will see from the heading of my letter, I, the ceaseless
wanderer, am once again in Dufilé, and I am making use of
k the lelsure time afforded me to send you a few lines of greet-
ing from this distant land. - After having heard from Makraka
} the sad news of the death of Herr Kopp, Dr. Junker's fellow-
TI traveller, I left Lado, and was towed by the steamer to
I where I remained with my dahabiye for the night.

The next morning I continued my journey, negroes towing my
I boat up-stream. - My arrival at Rejaf was delayed until evening,
'for the east bank of the river presented many hindrances to
i my people, on account of the projecting taw/s (floating grass
llslands) and the abundant bushes and trees; and as the river
i was unusually low-for this year we have a Kharif (rainy

season) without rain-my dakhabiye was obliged to tack con-

tinually to prevent running aground. - My measurements
f A

fey f?. [ "A PROM LADG TO DUFILE

give for the summit of Mount Rejif a height of about 1770
feet, which is certainly far from corresponding with Baker's
4186 feet. I am quite sure of the accuracy of my observa-
tions, as also of my calculations (this is the third ascent I
have made), and cannot, therefore, account for so great a dis-
crepancy either through a mistake in reckoning or throucrh
any carelessness on my part.

From a negro chief here who was known to me, I received
several beautiful living hyraxes and an "Um Dikdik" (Neo-
tragus Hempmchmnué) also alive. j

The journey from Rejif to Bedén, our next station, was
only a short one. - It occupied four hours on foot, but five by:
water, on account of the numerous sandbanks and windings of.
the river. On both the river-banks, which consist of gently?
rising, undulating, sandy ground, coarse-grained gneiss, often.
very like coal blocks, and pieces of yellowish mica are seen.
here and there. Where the upper crust has been washed.
away by heavy rainfall, light red clay containing iron is exposed.
to view. - A few tall tamarinds and beautiful detaria laden with,
golden fruit are scattered about, while at intervals a kigelia
swings upon long tendrils its grotesque fruit, the pulp of which
is used for dmssmg wounds. - Nearer to Bedén the groups of
rock become more numerous, the vegetation richer, and well-
wooded islands (Seba Jezair) adorn the river, into which rocky
promontories jut. Many rocks lie just beneath the surface of
the water, their presence being marked by small eddies, and
rendering the navigation difficult. At last, after passing through
a narrow defile, where the water, obstructed by rocky barriers,
rushes headlong forward, our boat reached the shore of the
island of Bedén, once the headquarters of the chief of the
same name mentioned by Baker. The small island, situated in.
the midst of raging rapids, forms a healthy residence for 11383
little garrison, winch lives on the best of terms with them1
surrounding negro tribes, and is of great importance in secur-w
ing the safety of the transport up the river. All goods coming.
from the north are disembarked here, and are carried by means,
of a wire-rope ferry, established by the thoughtful care of}
Gordon Pasha, to the west bank of the river, where there is
a "portage" for about a quarter of an hour to a point above!

 

AT BEDEN. 3

the rapids. Here the goods are again shipped for transport
to Kiri.

In conversation with Sheikh Bedén, who came with six
sons to greet me, I learnt further details about the existence of
a race of dwarfs who are said to inhabit mountain caves to the
west of Bedén. These little people, of about forty inches in
height and of a brown colour, are greatly dreaded by the
negroes. They are said to shoot very small arrows, which
are deadly poisoned and very difficult to extract, and to live on
white ants and roots, not, however, despising a sheep or a
goat. On account of their great agility, they are difficult to
catch ; and as they live in their caves, the negroes do not trouble
themselves about them, but avoid going too near the mountains.
I was told that the mountain which they inhabit was named
" Nyan-Nyan," and some of the people call the dwarfs by the
same name, but others call them " Nyam-Nyam." Now, this
name would curiously coincide with the statement made by
Mariette Bey, that all dwarfs were called by the ancient
Egyptians " Nam," or reduplicated, " Nam-Nam." I refrain
from any comment on this point. I had heard several months
before of the existence of such pigmies, who appeared to be the
remainder of a dwarf population which ages ago spread itself
over Central Africa, but I had considered the rumour to be a
myth, for I was loth to believe that such curiosities could exist
in a country which had been occupied by us for years, without
any one knowing of them.

Bedén is some 1490 feet above sea-level. The island
suffers from a plague of ants, which renders the cultivation of
the soil almost an impossibility, and compels the frequent re-
building of the huts. The soil is composed of coarse sand.

Early next morning, the " Nuggers" (boats) were ready
to start, and we made our way up-stream ; but progress was
slow, owing to rocks obstructing the navigable channel. It was
lucky that the boats, which were built of very tough acacia wood
(sunt), could bear with impunity many a hard bump on these
rocks, although after a sharp collision they often shipped great
quantities of water, on account of their badly calked seams.
European boats would fly into a thousand pieces if subjected to
the rough usage customary here, apart from the fact that no

a é IFEROM LAPO TO DUFILE.

European wood could withstand the climatic influences or the
ravages of the boring beetles. 'The amount of destruction
caused by these beetles (a small brown Bostrichus species with
a strongly developed thorax) is almost incredible, whole trunks
of trees being transformed by them into powder in a marvel-
lously short space of time.

The country between Bedén and Kiri does not present any
remarkable features. Sandy mounds, with here and there
scattered trees, rise gradually towards the south. The river-
banks, however, were considerably higher than formerly, and.
literally covered by water-birds. Stately yabirus (Mycteria)
and cranes, as well as Nile geese of both species, stood in pairs:
upon the small sandy islands and at the confluences of the,
streams, and we saw numbers of tantalus, ibis, vanellus, &c.,
and the never-failing Zyas eeqyptiacus. |

After a successful journey of six and a half hours, we arrived.
at Kiri, where I received an extremely warin welcome from.
Mason Bey, who had just returned from surveying the Albert
Lake. According to the friendly account he gave me, the
lake was cireumnavigated and surveyed on board the steamer
Nyanza in five days. Its southern end was found to be 1° 10>
N. lat., its most westerly shore 30° 30" E. long. There is no,
outflow towards the west. Mason Bey will send you fall par-.
ticulars as well as a map. - Gessi's river Wiadelai was not found.
I also sought it in vain last year.

I send you the definite latitudes of our stations, for which L_
have to thank Colonels Mason and Prout :-

Ladd, $. Ot N. lat.. s s . . "Gol. Mason. ‘
s $206 $3" ~,, '. f (t .. ~ Col. Prout. |
Peden: 'a" 35 40" * ,,. /. P * f _ Col. Mason. J
Kiri, (%, }. o . y f ¥ i
, 45 0% 36" _ .,. . A . s .. Col, Prout. |
labore; | 3° i885. 83" . ., . . f f . . "Gol. Mason, é
3 34° 33° . .,. . . i $ * . is A
Miscunte. » 'if 42° . . 31° 31 45". E. long. % i
#1 Ris $4" * <4, ~. . a f . Col. Prout. 3

|

As I already intimated to you, the sketch map I sent you is &
in need of many alterations, because the positions on it were -
obtained by dead reckoning. The corrections are especially é

|
d

KIRL AND THE BARL 5

noteworthy between Lado and Dufilé; the latter place I put
Gown as 3° 34' 33" ; it should be 3° 34" 33". 'The difference
in the position of Magungo (according to Baker, 2° 16" 00"
N. lat, 31 30 00" E. long.), is to be explained by the
removal of the station farther to the east. In any case, a basis
for a new map has now been obtained, which will probably not
require much alteration.

On the evening of my arrival at Kiri, a station situated upon
a hill composed of gneiss and hornblende schist, we experienced

a small shock of earthquake a slight undulating rocking, fol-
lowed immediately by a noise resembling the roll of distant
thunder. It took place at 6.30 pa. The weather was per-
fectly clear, and the barometer remained absolutely unaffected.
In a second all was over, but the same kind of shock occurred
again twice during the night. According to letters received
from Rejaf, the shock was also felt there, whereas in Muggi
nothing was noticed. It is said at Kiri that all earthquakes
and they are very frequent, but never destructive-originate
from a prominent ridge of hill, and that there a rotatory move-
ment is felt. In very dry seasons, and especially just before
the commencement of the rains, the earthquakes are most
severe and frequent. I heard the same report at Rejaf, which
place takes its name from " earthquake." In Lado earthquakes
do not orten occur, so that Kiri and Rejaif would appear to form
the vertices of an ellipse.

A stay of two days at Kiri gave me an opportunity of
making observations and collections, and the mosquitoes only
making their presence felt occasionally, all my surroundings
favoured a comfortable rest. The people here are Bari,
and belong to the same tribe which you know inhabit Lado
and Rejaif, with this difference, that instead of the cotton loin-
cloths worn by the girls there, that article of their apparel
is made of small iron chains woven together by fine iron rings.
The married women in both districts wear aprons made of soft
leather dyed with the juice of the fig or the gardenia, and the
men are absolutely naked.

A remarkable deformity is frequently noticed in the Bari
women, namely, the enormous enlargement of the bursa patele
of both knees, often to the size of an orange. - This is probably

 

6 FROM LADG TO DUFILE.

caused by the fact that the women perform most of the'ir duties
kneeling, and also by their being obliged to crawl into the
huts on account of the low doorways. Another thing worth
mentioning is the almost invariable disproportion in the
development of their breasts, one being much smaller than the
other. Umbilical hernia, caused by the navel cord being torn
at birth instead of tied, is frequent in both sexes ; hydrocele is
often seen; and elephantiasis seroti is met with here and there.
The people try to protect themselves from syphilis, which is
very prevalent, by inoculations upon the arm.

A passable road leads from Kiri to Latuka. The height of
Kiri above sea-level is 1567 feet. After two days' rest there,
while I awaited the arrival of a young officer who was to
accompany me, we entered upon a hilly country, seamed in all
directions by rocky ravines. Frequently the path is crossed
by ridges of tightly packed stones, apparently radiating from
accumulated heaps of rock, and looking as if they were intended
to divide the country into definite parts. - Here and there, in
the midst of high and beautiful trees, Doléb palms are seen,
the first met with since leaving Bor. _ The narrow river, broken
by many a rock, foams and roars between the hills, which
completely shut out the view of the country beyond. There
can be no question of navigation here, and the route as far
as Dufilé can only be traversed by land. To the east and
south lie the blue mountain masses of Kelen and Kuku. The
road, which has led over gneiss rubble and white sand, in
which fragments of mica were seen, becomes broken shortly
before Muggi is reached by many deep rain-furrows and several
swamps. A short march brought us to the station of Muggi, .
which is situated close by roaring rapids, its height above the
sea-level being about 1640 feet. - Porters having to be changed
here, a short sojourn was indispensable, and permitted time for
making collections. A good specimen of Rhabdogale mustelina,
which is very common here, was brought me.

Early next morning, as soon as the necessary porters had
assembled, and after each had found his load-our porters, |
you must know, are very capricious-the formidable file was
set in motion. The first part of our way led over level
ground, with here and there a few boulders. Then. followed

Pure wer mesi

EIRL TO LARORE 7

wide, moist patches covered with Cyperus grass, and inter-
vening breaks of sward, where Pentstemon (?) and red Ipomaeas
bloom, and reddish and white sandy patches form the favourite
_habitats of balanites and long-thorned mimosas. After a three

hours' march we rested a while near a stream of clear, cool
water. As the road nears the extensive chain of the Kuku
mountains, the hills begin to rise, and gradually form a kind
of barrier, behind which the well-wooded mountains, rising in
two high terraces, almost vanish out of sight. From this point
the footpath leads along half-way up between the hill-tops and
the river, which is here narrow and foaming, and more like
a mountain torrent than like the Nile as seen at either Lado
or Dufilé. It sinks down into deep gullies formed by the
rain, only to rise again suddenly, and then to lead us past
magnificent clusters of trees (tamarinds, Bufyrospermum) to
the station of Labore, situated on an almost isolated hill (1700
feet) and therefore visible from a long distance. The scenery
of the country just traversed reminds one by its grandeur
of certain districts in the Balkans.

On the way we had heard a good deal about the elephants,
which, being very numerous here, break into the stations and
unroof the huts. I saw at this place a soldier who had been
wounded by an elephant. The animal, which had no doubt
been previously wounded, and therefore become separated from
its companions, had hidden itself in the bush at a bend in the
road, and lifted with its tusks the foremost of the soldiers who
were returning from Dufilé into the air. When, however, the
soldier thrust his arm into its mouth, it dropped him, and trans-
fixed the upper part of his right thigh. Then, molested by
shots, it relinquished its victim and retired. The wound was of
no great importance, as fortunately the tusk passed between the
muscles without injuring any vessel.

Labore is strategically an important position. The same
evening about two hundred porters had collected in order to
place themselves at our service for the next long march of
forty miles to Dufilé, and after they had abundantly supped,
and danced and sung for half the night, a start was made
early the next morning. The scenery along the road is
magnificent, and teems with life. The blue river foams in a

8 FROM LADO TO DUEILE.

thousand small cascades and rapids through the deeply hollowed
bed. On the east bank the hills gradually rise to beauti-
fully wooded mountains, one chain of which forms Jebel Arju,
and follows the river to a point near Dufilé. - Terraces covered
with cultivated patches of green durra, sesame and lubig, and

here and there a few huts upon the flanks of the hills, offer _

agreeable resting-places for the eye.
Upon the west bank, on which we were travelling, hills
interchange with park land, with yellowish-white sand patches,

and with chaotic masses of beautiful red and yellow striped _

porphyry. - Tall, sturdy trees provide shade, and wooded islands
adorn the river. The grotesque forms of Huphorbia candela-
brum stand out upon the naked rocks, now with short trunks

splitting up into a semicircular entanglement of leafless branches, _

then with high pillar-like trunks bearing only at the summit _

a few candelabra. Solanum and Calotropis procera,
with their small yellow balloon-like fruits, containing silken
filaments, become more abundant from this point. Khor Ayu,
now very low on account of the drought, flows down between
blocks of metamorphic schists, and the small station situated
upon it afforded us a temporary halting-place. _ It is surrounded
on all sides by mountains, and was erected to guard the passage.

The river valley becomes narrower and narrower. Towards
the south it seems to be shut in by the majestic Jebel Meto ;
along the river mighty Doléb palms (Borassus Aabelliformis)
rock their feathery tips in the soft breeze. The scattered
boulders become more numerous; a group of high tamarinds
marks the place where the path suddenly deviates from the
river to lead over the hilly heights (rising up to 2000 feet) of
the widening valley, and the way for the most part winds upon
their summits. Thorny acacias, sharp-edged grasses, and rocky
rubble, characterise this section of the road. -Two deeply cut
ravines, having a steep descent and a still steeper ascent, were
passed; far and wide no drop of water was to be found!
Another vigorous march through high grass, and before us
ran Khor-et-Tin, a dirty stream overgrown with reeds, and
polluted by elephants, but still drinkable, upon the banks of
which we took up our quarters for the night. Rolling thunder
and the snorting and trumpeting of numerous. elephants,

ARBIVAL AT DUFILE. 9

who were alarmed at our fires as they came to water, served for
our lullaby.

Next morning light rain did not prevent an early start.
The road led up and down hill, as just described.. All the
khors were dry. Our thirst became intense, when at last a
new k/or provided us with a small quantity of good water.
Along the whole of this part of the road the river is hidden.
To the right is Jebel Kuku, at a distance of from one to one
and a half miles from our path, and upon the east bank of
the river the azure heights of Jebel Arju stretch out, running
parallel with those of Jebel Kurdu. - The latter, partly covered
by bushes, often present bare cliffs, rendered so black by the
action of sun and rain, that their real composition is un-
recognisable from a distance. These cliffs frequently look
like gigantic seams of coal. After a short time distant
rumbling announced the proximity of the falls of Makedo
and Apuddo, and hence our approach to the river. A few
minutes more, and the path changed its direction to the
south-east, leaving the Kuku mountains, which abruptly termin-
ated here. A glorious panorama opened out before us. The
hill gradually sloped down to level ground, which stretched
out into a wide plain, dotted here and there with palms, and
through its expanse the mighty river, blue and shining, flowed
on in sweeping curves. - Azure hills and purple-headed moun-
tains formed the picture's frame. By a gentle descent we
left the hills, red passion-flowers and lemon-coloured grass
lilies bedecking the path. The roll of drums and clang of
bugles bid us welcome-we were in Dufilé.*

* The geographical nomenclature of the country between the Khor Ayu and
Dufilé has undergone considerable changes since Emin's visit in 1877. The Kuku
are a sub-tribe of the Midi living on the Ayu; Jebel Meto had better be called
Jebel Otze ; and the other mountains referred to above are likewise known by
other names. The Rapids below Dufilé are known as Fola. Makedo is a district
far down the river, near Kiri, whilst the Apuddo are a tribe of the Midi, near
Dufilé, in whose territory Sir S. W. Baker built Ibrahimia -E. G. R.

10 DUFILE TO MRUCLL

2. From DUFILE Up THE Nmr to MacgcUrgo ox tur AunsERT
LAKE, AND SUBSEQUENTLY »14 Riroto axp Masinpt to

MrouL.
(Letter to Dr. A. Petermann, from Mrali, August 20, 1877.)

THE MADI-THE NILE BED-MOLA'S VILLAGE-THE MAGUNGO-LANDSCAPE
PICTURES-BAKER'S MASINDI-DISTRIBUTION OF THE FLEA-IRON

INDUSTRY.

My last letter will have told you that I arrived in Dufilé, and
thought of staying there several days. As there is nothing
specially noteworthy about the place itself, I was very glad
of the spare time for collecting specimens, for making excur-
sions into the neighbouring Midi villages, and for compiling
a small vocabulary of their language.

The Midi do not appear to be a very numerous tribe; their
district joins the Makraka country on the west, and extends
towards the south along the west bank of the river to Wadelai,
where the Magiungo as well as the Madi language is spoken.
South of Widelai (also on the west bank of the river) live the
Liir, who are subject to Kabréga, and speak Magungo. I shall
have the opportunity of speaking of them later on. - Madi also
live on the other side of the river, to a distance of about three
days' journey to the east of Dufilé ; then come the Umirdo, a
tribe of the Lingo ; then the real light-coloured Lango (Galla),
who breed asses and camels. The most southerly place occu-
pied by the Madi on the east bank is Bora, while their south-
easterly neighbours are the Shuli, who, to judge from their
language, must belong to the Magiungo. The men here also
are totally unclothed; the women wear a simple girdle with
a tail made of bark fibre, and an apron in front, about the
breadth of two fingers, made out of leather or cotton-stuff.
Iron ornaments, in the form of necklaces, bracelets, and
anklets, are much worn. The rings worn upon the arms
and necks of very fashionable men often form regular armour,
handsome to look at, but, one would think, uncomfortable
to the wearer. One misses in this district the beautiful iron

TUP THE NILE. LI

beadwork (aprons, &e.) such as is so often found, especially
amongst the upper Bari and the Makraka Nyam-Nyam.
The blacksmiths, who are seen in almost every village, con-
fine themselves to the manufacture of lances, arrows, and the
above-named ornaments, as well as a kind of shovel (Arabic,
malat) for cultivating the soil, - These shovels form also a unit
of value, by means of which porters, &c., are paid and oxen
and brides are bought. The Midi language is totally different
from the Bari, and is more akin to the Makraka language.
There is nothing specially noteworthy in the Midi customs.

The day for our departure arrived, and in beautifully cool
weather the little screw-steamer started up-stream
towards the south. At an almost regular speed of about four
English miles an hour, we steamed up the broad and beautiful
river, which unfortunately was full of floating vegetation. The
screw of the steamer was, to begin with, small, and rotating
amongst the floating grasses, it kept getting entangled with
plants, so that the steamer was often compelled to stop for
a time, so as to allow a man to get down and clean the screw.
The west bank above Dufilé was adorned by a long row of
Doléb palms, which looked very beautiful as they waved
against the dark-blue hills in the background. I had not
seen so great a number of these palms since leaving the Shiluk
country between Fashoda and the Sobat, near the northern
limit of their distribution ; and I may mention here that they
become more and more rare towards the Equator. In Mtésa's
country I did not see a single one.

Rising from the low east bank of the river, the hills of
Jéifl are seen from a long distance; they gradually advance
towards the river, into which they gently slope. Short grass
and isolated tall trees adorn the otherwise bare flanks, the red
colour of which is very striking. Papyrus and yellow flower-
ing ambaj (Herminiera) deeply fringe both banks. On the
east bank wild rocks, towering one above another, form a
kind of chain, which gradually sinks, in the neighbour-
hood of the perennial Unyama, in order to give room to
the plain which gradually slopes to the east. The west bank,
on the contrary, presents a plain, evidently exposed to floods,
while rather high and well-marked columnar mountains form

12 DUFILE TO MRCLL.

a long chain which, with few breaks, extends towards the
lake.

The river is frequently broken by huge rocks belonging to
a transverse reef, and motionless herons sit enthroned upon
them. _ Enormous fringes of vegetation block the access to the
tiver.. Papyrus, Herminiera, and Arundo form the gigantic
growth of these impassable masses ; Cucurbitaces and Ipomseas
twine themselves in festoons from plant to plant; Vossia
composes the underwood ; and Pistia, Potamogeton, Vallisneria,
Ottelia, and other small aquatic plants form a thick turf on
the edges. Numberless swarms of small Fringillidse, golden
black-browed weavers, find here retreats where they are never
disturbed. In shady spots stands the Scopus umbretta, in deep
meditation, with its bill resting on its breast. A panting
hippopotamus plunges into the blue spray-crowned waves,
leaving its shady resting-place at the noise of. the steamer.
Blue-green snakes cross the water with uplifted heads, and
the pretty Parra africana hastens over the broad leaves of
the water-lily, picking up a few snails by the way. After
a violent thunderstorm had added still further variety to the
scene, we anchored, late in the evening, to the high and easily
accessible clayey bank at Bora.

No sooner was the steam-whistle sounded than the tall grass
started into life. Negroes made their appearance from all sides,
with pieces of firewood in their hands, to barter with the
captain for a few beads. During this business, which took
place amidst joking and laughter, I paid a visit to the little
village of Bora, situated at the foot of the hill at ten minutes'
distance from the bank of the river. The way led through
fairly tall grass past Doléb palms and tamarinds. Mola, the
chief of the Midi who inhabit the village-this being their most
southerly limit-received me in a friendly way, and offered for
barter eggs, fowls, and fruit of the Doléb palm. The village is
small, and consists of rather miserable, hemispherical, straw huts,
and numerous granaries standing on three legs and resembling
the gugas of the Bari. _ They contain eleusine corn of light
yellowish colour, evidently a variety of a corn that I have only
seen reddish brown before. There are banana plantations, but
unfortunately no fruit; and sesame is largely cultivated. All

THE MADL OF BORA. Ig

the men I saw were naked, except a young man who wore a
small apron of cotton thread. Iron ornaments seem to be very
much esteemed ; many of the people have their lips pierced, as
well as the rims of their ears, in which short pieces of straw
are stuck. I saw bracelets of ivory and of hippopotamus and
python skin, and girdles made of the thin scales of a land shell.
There were no women visible. The principal chief is named
Lonya, and lives a little farther up the stream ; unfortunately,
he did not make his appearance until our boat had already
started, and though he called to us, we could not manage to
turn back. Meantime the trade in wood had come to an end,
and an abundant supply of firewood was laid in. We now
continued our journey through huge masses of floating plants.
Both banks are shut in by chains of hills. Above Bora nume-
rous fawfs combine with banks of mud to form a kind of barrier,
through which the steamer slowly made its way from one channel
to another. I may remark that, on the whole, the river is not
very deep in comparison with its considerable breadth. Where
the papyrus growth permits a view of the shore you frequently
see steep banks of red clay, usually dotted with houses and
bananas.

To-day again a regular tropical thunderstorm broke over
us. We are in the month of July, but in the middle of the
Kharif, and as the rain lasted a long time, we anchored in
the river two hours after sunset. An awning was put up,
and the whole company of crew and passengers retired shivering
under their ox-skins and coverings. The rain continued until
eleven in the evening. About an hour and a half before sun-
set we had passed the spot where on Gessi's map are written
the words, " Branch to the west." I have recently been able
to convince myself that the stream which was supposed to be
there does not exist; but there is a branch to the west, which
joins the river again after flowing round an island.

The journey was resumed at 3.10 A.M. before break of day,
although we were all shivering. The sunrise presented us
with a magnificent spectacle The broad majestic stream,
now freed from all vegetation and obstructions, was gilded
by the rising sun, and we could see the tall red cliffs, the
wooded hills ascending gradually to the lofty azure mountains,

14 PURILE TO MRULL.

scattered huts and villages peeping out of euphorbias and
acacias, and here and there an ant-hill, on the summit of
which stood out the sharp outline of an antelope; tall Doleb
palms too were visible, many with red, purjse-sl‘aaped Pests,
like large fruits, constructed by the weaver birds; and in the
distance before us rose the lofty summits that skirt the western
coast of the Albert Lake. In all parts of the river were
baskets and weirs, often of great size, indicating an abundance
of fish. Large and small fishing-boats, made out of hollowed
trunks, crossed the stream in every direction. 'Their inmates,
generally one, but sometimes two and three persons, were very
black in colour, and handled their single paddle with great
dexterity.

The euphorbias were very striking in the woods along the
bank, not the beautiful column-like euphorbia of which we
find isolated specimens in the south, at the foot of, and often
upon, the rocks-that only seems to grow on elevated points of
land-but the variety which from its entanglement of leafless
branches (Salva venia) looks like a broom turned upside down.

Whilst on the western bank the high mountain chain trends
away, the eastern bank had gradually sunk, and formed a stretch
of low land, rising towards the east, covered by dried-up yellow
grass and many bushes. Numerous large herds of antelopes, their
red-brown skin blazing in the sunlight, grazed near the river; a
troop of about thirty elephants moved slowly along the bank,
and snarling, frightened monkeys took to flight as the steamer
approached the bank. At last the eastern bank ran into a
bare, broad spit of land ; the hills on the west bank retreated k
still farther towards the south-west ; the already broad stream
became broader; the spit of land was past; we were in the
lake !

Rolling mist, through which only the mountain-tops rose into
view, shut in the horizon from all sides, thus leaving the imagi-
nation free play. - Across the beautiful free expanse of water the
steamer turned toward the east, so as to reach the mouth of the
Somerset Nile; and the nearer we got to the land, the thicker
became the floating vegetation, as also the tawfs and banks of
mud, overgrown by large-leaved water-lilies, and forming the
haunt of hundreds of aquatic birds. .Plotus melanogaster is

ARRIVAL AT MAGUXGO. s

also very abundant here. Our brave steamer forced its way
through the plant barriers and sandbanks. Large numbers
of fishing-boats, some of which would hold five or six persons,
paddled about among the islands. An immense number of con-
trivances for catching fish covered both banks of the slowly flow-
ing but broad and deep river. - On either bank, beautiful woods,
in which Doléb palms were occasionally seen, alternated with open
places which permitted a good view of hilly country. For about
five miles we proceeded up-stream, keeping always to the
northern bank of the river, where the current is stronger and the
water deeper, until at last we reached the station of Magiingo,
situated on the south bank of the river, from which place we
were destined to commence our land journey.

The necessary stay here to procure porters was most wel-
come to me. My ethnological collection grew visibly, and I
was able to obtain much information about the Lnir or Liiri.
The country belonging to this tribe lies, as I have already
indicated, between Waiadelai and the mountains which skirt the
western coast of the Albert Lake, including the mountains, and
stretching far towards the west and south-west. Fine woods
cover the country, in which are found in abundance most of the
animals that exist in other parts of Central Africa (I procured
skins of the Colobus @uereza). 'There is said to be a con-
siderable river a few days' journey distant towards the west
or north-west. - All the utensils, ornaments, and arms betoken
proximity to the Nyam-Nyam. But I obtained also many
cinetures ornamented with cowrie shells moneta@), which
I suppose were imported from here. Liir, indeed, is subject
to Kabréga, and intercourse between here and there is very
frequent owing to the facility of navigation. When I made
inquiriee-I use the Waganda language, which I learnt in the
beginning of the year, and which many of the people under-
stand-about the origin of the cowrie shells, which are so
abundant, and so much prized in Unyoro and Uginda (4500
cowries = an ox at Kabréga's), I was assured most positively by
the natives that all such shells in Unyoro came into the country
from Uganda, and that they were brought there by people from
the south. It is certain that people have never come to the
Albert Lake from the south for purposes of trade, Every

16 PUFILE TO MRCOLL

trade in Unyoro depends, and has always depended, on Uganda,
and this is the only explanation of the fact that neither Kam-
rasi nor his son Kabréga thought of retaliating for raids made
by the Waginda upon their country.

The people of Magiuingo are of a black colour, through which,
however, appears very distinctly a red ground-tone. The men
and women are on an average a little under middle height, and
generally without any muscular development; they are all
clothed in skins, which have been well beaten to render them
soft, or in yellow bark-cloth. A round patch of hair crowns
the otherwise smoothly shaven head, which is always uncovered.
No tattooing is practised, neither are the ears or lips pierced.
All, without exception, draw the lower incisors, many also the
lower canines, but they could not give me any reason for this
custom. The teeth are drawn when puberty is reached. As
ornaments, they wear iron necklaces, bracelets, and rings of
iron and copper, of various dimensions; special value is set
upon copper. All Magungo are passionate fishers and hunters ;
their arms consist of spears, wickerwork shields, bows, and
strong, smooth, unbarbed reed arrows, covered with a poisonous
paste, and iron-headed. The fishing appliances are very
well described by Baker, as are also the nets for trapping
game. Amulets of all kinds are greatly prized ; every man
carries pieces of roots, curiously formed bulbs, and segments of
goat's horn filled with small roots and made into a necklace.
In order to unveil the future or determine questions of difficulty,
fowls are killed and their entrails examined by the Magangae
(magician). No chief will return by the way he has come.
_The time of new moon is fraught with magic power, in con-
sequence of which the common people celebrate its appearance
with music and clamour, the chiefs with hecatombs of fowls.
If any one wishes to marry, he purchases his wife from her
father. - Four oxen for beautiful girls and three oxen for less
lovely ones is the conventional price. A sheep is given into
the bargain, and is usually eaten at once. If the wife bears
a child, two oxen are presented to her father, who may kill
them. If she has no children, and is therefore sent back by
her husband, she is entitled to two oxen, and two are returned
to her husband. The wedding is celebrated with dancing and

 

THE MAGUNGO. 17

mrissa-drinking, but is accompanied by no ceremonies. Fecun-
dity increases a woman's prestige, and sterility attaches a stigma
to her. Polygamy is universal. - At the birth of a child
no ceremonies are observed except the naming of it by the
father; but if twins are born, and especially if they are of the
same sex, the whole village unites in celebrating the happy
event. - Besides the word for twins, the language contains two
special words for the first and second born of them.

The Maguingo are very clean and particular in eating and
drinking. Corn is very little cultivated in the country, and
what little there is (sorghum and eleusine) is used chiefly in
the preparation of mrisse. - The principal food consists of
sweet potatoes (Batatas edulis) and bananas, which are very
abundant. Sesame and groundnuts, and more rarely voand-
zeia, are cultivated, and, together with several varieties of
wild hibiscus, provide oil and vegetables. - Meat is little eaten,
the flesh of elephants and hippopotami never, for it causes
eruptions on the skin, as also does crocodile flesh. The people
are very fond of all kinds of game and fish; they hardly
ever eat fowls, and still more rarely eggs.

When any one dies, a shallow trench is dug near to the hut
of the deceased, and the body, placed on its right side, and
fully clothed, is laid in it, and then it is filled up. Wailing is
the only outward sign of grief. No utensils, &c., are put into
the grave. The sons and the wives of the father divide the

_ inheritance between them. I saw a most interesting case of
- puerperal mania in a domesticated negress in the station of
- Magiuingo. It was to me a unique experience.
_-_ In the districts of Unyoro with which I have become ac-
s quainted (Shibifro, Magiuingo, Masindi, Lond, Kisuga, Karuma,
- Atida, Fauvera, Koki, Mruli), two entirely distinct languages
i are spoken, one of which is divided into two perfectly distinct
dialects. In Karima and Atida, as also in parts of Fauvera,
» as well as in the districts bordering on the middle course of
i the Somerset Nile, the people speak Shifali, a language per-
i fectly identical with the Shuli language. The negroes who are
a acquainted with the Shiluk language assert that the Shiuli and
i Shifali languages are identical with it. If this be the case,
it is a very interesting fact, considering the distance, and also
B

18 FROM MAGUNGO TO MRULL

Saisie ction ued

the number of tribes who dwell in the intervening region
(Dinka, Nuér, Elisb, Bari, Madi). Unfortunately, at the pre- .
sent moment I have no Shiluk vocabulary at hand. 'The
dialects spoken in all the other districts just mentioned |
belong to the Magingo language, the most southerly branch
of which (Masindi, Londi, &e.) is called Madundi, and resembles
Kigainda. f a
The porters required for forwarding my baggage were
gradually making their appearance from the surrounding |
villages; and after they had been given a day of rest, and,
what was probably more welcome to them, an ox for slaughter, _
it was time to think of the further journey. During light |
rain, which, however, soon ceased, we next proceeded south-
ward, afterwards to take a more easterly direction. The whole -
three days' march (we reckon six or eight hours for a march)
from Magiingo to Kiroto, leads through an undulating country,
in the hollows of which little streams flow from east to west -
(Khor Zalia, Khor Varingo) The whole stretch of country |
is covered by grass, so that horse and rider, much more |
wanderers on foot, are entirely hidden in it. Scattered _
throughout this sea of grass are Leguminosm, ten to four-
teen feet high, with yellow blossoms, tree-like Solanesm, tall -
thistles, single trees (Kigelias, Mimosas, Combretas, and a few
euphorbias), and in some places the tall spikes of an aloe, .
covered with hundreds of beautiful red tubular blossoms spotted _
yellow. The monotony of the way is often broken by a -
banana plantation, upon which all the energy of vegetation
seems to have concentrated itself; and now and then one.
comes upon a hut, or a group of huts, apparently deserted ;
but that the inhabitants are not far away is proved on the one
hand by the extensive cultivation of sweet potatoes (Batatas -
edulis) and sesame, which are constantly met with, and, on the
other, by the presence in the huts of all sorts of household
utensils. - The huts themselves are circular in form, with hemi-
spherical roofs reaching to the ground, and they are divided
into two compartments. The first compartment is for use by a
day, and has a sort of corner divan, and the space behind,.
which is completely dark, is devoted to the fireplace, storehouse,
and sleeping-room. Near to one of these huts I found a plant .

5

 

 

 

VEGETATION NEAR KIRGTO. 19

entirely new to me; having a stem about forty inches high, three
to four inches thick (resembling that of the yucca), it grows to
the height of about eight feet, the foliage dark green, rather
broad, lily-like leaves two feet long, which, alternating with
striking regularity, encircle with their bases more than half the
stem. I have seen the plant only once since, between Londu
and Kisuga, again in the neighbourhood of huts; yet I learn
from the inhabitants that it is to be found here and there, and
that the blossom is white.*

In all directions well-worn paths cross the country, a testi-
mony to the intercourse of the natives among themselves. A
solitary Doléb palm marked the ascent close to Magiungo. The
last part of the road to Kiroto is rendered almost impass-
able by the luxurious and entangled growth of grass; masses
of reeds of imposing height and great breadth often intrude
themselves between the grasses, and add not a little to the
difficulties of the way.. The bamboo proper is apparently not
to be found here. Where there is an accumulation of water
in the hollows of the ground, vegetation develops in over-
whelming abundance. One is often compelled to use con-
siderable strength in forcing one's way through; and it is
hot to suffocation in these thickets, in which the odour of
decaying plants blends with the strong perfume of certain
Compositse. Strange to say, all animal life appears to die out
of these grass forests during the day; one hardly hears the
twittering of the birds or the distant trumpeting of the
elephant; even the traveller is silent, and presses forward,
anxious to reach some open space. At night, indeed, it is
otherwise, as I often discovered during the previous year
upon the endless prairie, over which one travels for five days
between Fatiko and Fauvera. No sooner does the moon
flood its silver light upon the grass waving in the night breeze,
no sooner do fantastic shadows close around the traveller, than
the land is filled with ghostly life. There is a rustling and
a surging; the spell is broken-the animal world awakes.

Near Kiroto grow lofty Spathodege, with their magnificent

* This plant is easily recognised in a photograph of a group of trees which was
taken by Richard Buchta on the Somerset Nile, and which has been published by
him in his * Album of Photographs."-G. S.

20 FROM MAGUNGO TO MRULLI.

blossoms; a streamlet dyed red with the iron that impregnates _
the soil, and upon the surface of which played all the colours |
of the rainbow, flows towards the west; and the station itself -
lies at the foot of a hill, upon which fragments of gneiss and -
quartz are scattered. This little establishment at Kiroto, the:
most southerly of our stations, is a paradise for the collector. |
Forests, fields, rocks, bogs, and short swards, all unite to harbour _
every species of animal and plant. - Unfortunately, I was not .
able to remain here long.

Any number of cultivated plants grow round this place-
tomatoes (which grow wild in masses), solanum, melongena,
maize, lubia, arachis, voandzeia, bamia, and sesame (which has
red blossoms, although generally in the Sudan they are white).
Towards the south and east are dense forests, and in these the
wild anona mingles its large bluish-green leaves with those of -
the wild vine, from the branches of which heavy clusters of
grapes hang down. The Abrus precatorius twines round the .
trunks, presenting its well-known red kernels with black
dots. Everywhere is found the red-ribbed Musa Ensete, the
black angular seeds of which are greatly prized in the manu-.
facture of necklets. All sorts of beetles and worms crawl in.
the thick muddy water, and the wet bog seems particularly
attractive to the butterflies, for above it numbers of them,
especially the beautiful Equites, flutter. Quantities of curio-
sities, including colobus skins (these monkeys must abound,
here) and very pretty pottery made from the usual black clay
of the country, enriched my collections. - TZorcus erythorhynchus
struts about the fields, yet in no way could I obtain possession
of specimens, and if I had, there was not time to skin them.

At last, with a heavy heart, I had to leave Kiroto. WG,
set off in the fresh early morning, the high grass sprinkling:
its dew upon us in myriads of glistening drops. How much
our toilet was improved by this shower-bath can easily be
imagined. Often enough on such marches I have envied our,
Negroes, who, hanging a skin in front of their bodies, obtained
very good protection, while I was wet and shivering, a victim,
to my own civilisation. A ceaseless monotony envelops the
traveller upon these marches, grass and isolated trees, and
reeds of gigantic dimensions, often forming regular walls on

   

 
  
 
  
  
   
  
   
 
 

 

 

MASINDI AND CHIEF ANFINA. 21

either side. Sharp and prickly Cyperus and Vossia grasses
intermingle with randia and mimosas. Quite unexpectedly

_ one gets a sudden blow from some hidden tree-stump, or a

tear from some prickly thorn, of which the most destructive

are thistles, six feet high, with large leaves, snow-white on

their under side, and round white or purple heads. From

_ this point the elevation of the land increases considerably ;
_ many mountains rise in the midst of the high hills. The

drainage is now directed towards the east or north. Banana

_ groves alternate with large rounded blocks of quartz and gneiss
rubble. We marched rapidly on until we reached the station

of Masindi, not to be mistaken for Baker's residence of the
same name in Kabréga's country. A motley confusion of
huts and straw fences surrounded by a stout stockade of

_tree-trunks forms this newly built station, which is situated

upon the flattened summit of a bare iron- clay hill; and
which obtains its water from a dribbling brook at the foot
of the hill. The place is surrounded by extensive fields of

- sweet potatoes.

_Anfina, chief of the whole of the Magiingo and Shifalt
districts, as well as ruler of a part of the Lingo country, has
his headquarters here. He is a portly, well-dressed man

of middle age, whose light complexion, orthognate face, and

well-developed ears, as also his white teeth and well-shaped

nails, betray at once his descent from the Wahiuima, the well-
_ known light-complexioned shepherd race. - Anfina, whose

acquaintance I had already made, is distinguished from other

chiefs by a certain inborn tact; he never asks for anything.
_ After receiving a few presents, and telling me that his authority
extends now far into the Lingo country, he offered me guides
and porters in case I should wish to make a journey thither,

§

for the Lingo will not act as porters. He was surrounded
by a number of these handsome people, easily recognisable by
their curious wigs, and the peculiar way they dress the hair,

s and also by the copper rings which pierce their lower lips and
ears; but although I took much trouble to ascertain something
| about their country, I was not successful, for they seemed to

|

be frightened at the sight of a white man, the like of whom

I they had never seen before

|

23 FROM MAGUNGO TO MRULL

A march of four hours took us to Masindi, where Baker
lived. On the way we crossed over two khors choke-full of

papyrus and thick black mud. Here for the first time we |

met with the " gallery" woods described by Schweinfurth.
Trees towering to the skies and hidden beneath lianas and
creepers of every kind entwined into airy festoons ; delicate

date shrubs and trees ; an abundance of low underwood, among.

which is the pretty leaved acanthus; entada, with its long

chequered fruitt-all pervaded by a cool deep shade-an
enchanting picture. We crossed the ridge of another hill with

broad slabs of gneiss and mica schist, and another little Zor,

and arrived at a small clearing, in the midst of which a |
colossal sycamore afforded us welcome shade. It was here

 

 

that Baker erected his house, and often probably he enjoyed _
its shade as we did now. All view was shut out by high |

grass. Around the tree were numerous deserted fireplaces, .
and a giraffe skull was fastened to the trunk, showing that this _

spot is a kind of holy place. Once more we went up hill

and down dale, across small A/hors decorated with beautiful
high fan-shaped ferns, and then a short march brought us to |
Lond, our farthest outpost in the enemy's country. - Our I
old friends welcomed us heartily ; it was with them that we-
first pushed forward here last year, They live here shut
off from the world, and not too comfortably either, for now _
and then sharp skirmishes take place around the strong -
stockades, where not long ago Kabréga's life-guard, the far-

&

famed Banassura, held their orgies. I was detained here |
for several days by a considerable amount of official business, _
on account of which, and also of the present insecurity of
this district, my stay was unfruitful as far as my collections .

were concerned.

Londu is situated upon a high hill. My observations ii
with both aneroid and boiling-point thermometer indicated a-
height of about 3900 feet, which corresponds very well with

the height which Baker gives for Masindi. The hill, falling

steeply in the west and south, permits an extensive view over

lofty hills and extensive woods, and on the horizon there appear
several high blue mountains. The Luri mountains, on the
western shore of the Albert Lake, are also clearly seen, and

a

 

FROM KIROTO AND MASINDI TO MRULL 23

in the mornings a thick layer of fog plainly indicates the
situation of the lake,.

Towards the north, the east, and south-east high isolated
hills rise up, practically forming defiles which entirely block
communication between the east and west. Many fields of
sesame, durrah plantations, half withered for want of rain, scat-
tered banana groves, and many huts, at present deserted by
their inhabitants, indicate a very dense population. Unfor-
tunately, it is impossible at present to have any intercourse
with the inhabitants. My stay here was not exactly pleasant ;
cold, raw days, during which much rain fell (too late in the
season, unfortunately, to benefit the harvest), and nights dis-
turbed by minute black flies and fleas, a great source of
discomfort to the wanderer.

Although the flea does not exist in the Sudan-I speak of
the Egyptian Sudan-and is only met with as a curiosity
introduced from Egypt, it is, as I only too well remember,
very abundant in Uginda. I was obliged during my residence
there last year to have the floors of the houses cleared of
the layer of hay covering them and washed, before it was
possible to live in them.

I had the pleasure of a most interesting visit from an inde-
pendent chief named Kiza, who had heard in some way of my
arrival, and came to see me. He gave me a great number of
valuable notes about the country and people, habits and customs,
and after receiving some suitable presents he parted from me
highly satisfied. From Londu to Kiguga is only a short march
of 3% hours. After passing the steep hilly descent, at the
base of which there remains a little rain-water, the way leads
continually up and down over very hilly country, in an almost
always easterly direction, through high grass interspersed by
many trees. - Many glades are seen, in which tree-like Solanese
grow luxuriantly with orange-red and yellow fruits; they
point to former cultivation, as do many bananas and deserted
hearths. On the slope of the hill I found the second specimen
of the beautiful lily already mentioned. - Entada, eriodendron,
combretum, ficus, sterculia, spathodea, covered with blossoms ;
mimosas forming real shrubberies, and graceful date palms
wherever a small swamp occurs at the foot of a hill; the

24 FROM MAGUNGO TO MRUOLL

margins of the Ahors are fringed by "gallery" woods. We
marched between two mountain chains which run in an
easterly direction; and after we had permitted our porters to
take some rest, and then journeyed round a considerable pool
of water, upon the edge of which an indescribable picture of
luxuriant vegetation enchanted us, we climbed right up over
granite and gneiss blocks, ever upwards across the bare red
land (where is found a shrub much resembling a species of
Solanum, with woolly leaves, small yellow and black flowers,
and a small white apple-like fruit), until, bathed in perspira-
tion, we reached the summit of the mountain, and arrived at
the station of Kistiga.

This place also is situated on one of the many hills that are
scattered over the country, now rising separately out of the
comparatively level ground, now uniting by twos and threes to
form small groups. They are composed of granite and gneiss
enveloped in a layer of rich bog-iron ore, which, again, is
covered by a deep layer of vegetable mould. . The water col-
lected at the foot of this hill has no outlet, yet all the Ahors
farther on flow towards the south-east, and probably convey
their water to the great Khor Kifu, which joins the Nile at
Mrili. All the water is coloured deep yellow by oxide of
iron, but the presence of iron is not perceptible to the
taste.

Although fragments of rock (red-striped quartz) are scattered
all over the ground, the crenelated structures of the ants rise
to a height of seven feet in all directions. These creatures
often abound on a red clayey soil. Frequently when I wake
up in the night I hear a noise on the roof of my hut like the
pattering of heavy rain, for even in such places the indefatigable
ants build their passages and destroy the work of human
hands; indeed, our life here in the interior of Africa is a
constant struggle with the superior forces of nature and the
overwhelming life of plants and animals. In all directions
there extends a wide and rolling plain studded with beautiful
trees; the blue mountain masses of Kadiuku, Sumbiye, &c.,
stand out upon the horizon, while the lower Siri-Sfri marks
the road to this place. Kisiiga is a very roomy, clean, and
airy station, divided into regular quarters, and on account

 

IRON-SMELTERS AT KISUGA. 23

of its elevated site is one of the best and healthiest which
the Government possess here. The banana plantations far
and near supply it with food. Unfortunately the want of
rain this year has prevented all fruit from thriving. Red
amaranthus and lovely grass lilies beautify the surroundings,

- winter crows (Corvus seapulatus) and small vultures sit on

the trees waiting for food, while guinea-fowls and turtle doves
approach quite close to the station.
Near the enclosure a smithy is erected, in which a native

makes molut (shovels), and occasionally a spear-head or a
knife, out of the iron smelted here. Two earthenware vessels,

in form like flattened retorts open at the top, are covered with
a piece of skin loosely stretched over them, in the middle of
which a hollow stick is fixed and made air-tight. These

- are the bellows; and the stream of air produced by the pulling

up and pushing down of the stick is forced through a wide
clay pipe into the fire made in a shallow hollow in the ground.
A large lump of compact iron serves as an anvil. The iron
that I saw was of very good quality.

Intercourse with the natives in all these newly established
stations is naturally very limited, and therefore the collection
of notes and information, as well as the observation of their
customs, is hardly to be thought of. The language of these
districts is Magiingo, which appears to be spoken also by the

1 Umiré.

We had now only to visit Mrili, the most easterly station
in the district at present occupied, and there our final pre-
parations for a march into the interior were to be made.
It may sound strange when I say "the interior," for Mriali
is situated in lat. 1° 37' 43" N. Thanks to Gordon Pasha's
eminent talent of organisation; thanks to his three years'

- really superhuman exertions and labours in a climate which
© very few have hitherto been able to withstand ; thanks to

his energy, which no hindrances were able to damp, the

- whole immense country from the 9th to the 1st degree (Sobat

to Mriuli) is so well organised and so entirely secure that a
single traveller can wander through the length and breadth of
it with all the comfort that is here attainable, and can carry on
his studies in peace. Arms and ammunition, except for pur-

26 FROM MAGUNGO TO MRUOLL

suit of the chase, are certainly not required. Only one who has
had any direct dealings with negroes, and has been dependent

'upon them for the transport of goods, the supply of provisions,
&c.; who has seen and experienced the glowing sun and the -
fever-exhaling swamps of this territory ; who knows what it is -

 

 

to be for long years shut out from all society, and to dispense _

with the most ordinary comforts of life, can form a true esti-

mate of what Gordon Pasha accomplished here. « He was

obliged, moreover, to create for himself the material with which _

to do his work-and upon negroes he had to rely!

In pouring rain we descended the steep hill of Kiguga, and |
passed the saddle-back where last year, when engaged upon a -

peaceable exploration, we were first greeted by the volleys of
Kabréga's bodyguard, a greeting which was often our portion
during a three days' tedious march through the almost impene-
trable grass and bush. We then entered again into high grass,

above which the long branches of the eriodendron towered aloft -
in scattered groups. 'The Bassia Park:, which we previously |
saw so often, has become very rare during the last few days. .

Besides the red castle-like ant-hills we saw along this part
of the road another kind of structure, specimens of which

stand along the path like huge grey mushrooms. - The path .
seems to be much frequented by elephants, for we found |
newly broken-down trees scattered about; but no animals |

of any kind were to be seen. The high grass became

gradually replaced by open park land and very beautiful |

scenery ; the broad, well-dried path upon the red clayey ground
often expanded into small open places, the borders of which
were framed with short turf; trees and bushes formed them-
selves into groups, the red blooming canna being everywhere
abundant. Here and there in rocky ground, depressions formed

natural reservoirs for clear rain-water. The descent from Kisuga -

to Mriuli was very considerable.
During the last part of the route two species of mimosa were

 

 

added to the already far too numerous thorns and prickles, the

one with yellowish green bark and long snow-white thorns, the
other one, well known through Schweinfurth, the Acacia fistula
(Arabic, Um Sufura), with snow-white vesiculate thorns and
white bark, giving to the tree a very peculiar and unique

f

|

|

ARRIVAL AT MROLL 27

appearance in the twilight. It is very abundant at about
8° N. lat., but is seldom met with again until this district,
where it abounds.

When we left the river at Magiungo a Doléb palm bade us
good-bye, and here two similar palms indicated our approach
to the river, A long distance off a solitary tree was tipped
with gold by the setting sun : it was the tree under which, in
Kamrasi's time, Baker so long resided as a prisoner. It marked
the meshra or landing-place ; for Khor Kifu had still to be
passed before we reached our destination. Ferry-boats, sig-
nalled for by some shots, were loaded in bright moonshine.
Backwards and forwards they plied, until at length all our
goods had been ferried across ; and then we entered the boats,
enveloped by a swarm of mosquitoes, and after a ten minutes'
journey across the sluggish waters of the khor, through
enormous masses of papyrus and grasses, we reached the land-
ing-place. 'There, notwithstanding the late hour (9 P.M.),
a number of old acquaintances awaited us, and accompanied
us to the huts prepared for our reception. After a few hours
of chat, the monotonous Gardez / of the sentries brought the
tumult of the day to a close, and we could at length seek rest :
the first part of our journey lay behind us.

28 FROM MROLIL TO RUBAGA.

 

3. From Mrout to RusAca In

(Letter to Dr. A. Petermann, from Uganda, December 18, 1877.)

WAGANDA PORTERS-THROUGH SWAMP AND MUD-IN MREKO'S VILLAGE-
UGANDA TOBACCO - DANCERS AND SINGERS - PATHOLOGICAL -THE
BIRD WORLD-WAHUMA - TYPES-COLOCASIZE-BANANAS-AN UNEX-
PECTED ATTACK-THE LEGEND OF MOUNT SEMPA-COUNTRY LAID
wWASTE-NUDITY OF YOUNG GIRLS-LETTERS FROM MTESA-OUR LAST
MARCH AND ARRIVAL

I was compelled to wait in Mruli for a whole month, until
the guides and porters who had been requested from the
ruler of Uganda at last made their appearance. 'They in-
formed me that the country lay under water far and near, and
that all former roads were completely inundated and closed
to us. We were therefore obliged to find a new road, an
announcement which naturally highly gratified me. So the
people, who had brought a large number of cows, tobacco, and
coffee-berries to barter, were granted a day's rest; and not till
the 20th of November did we begin our march through level
alluvial land covered with grass of medium height, in the
midst of which a tall Doléb palm, visible from a long distance,
stands out as a landmark. Khor Kafu, which runs to the
right in numerous windings, approaches the road above this
palm-tree. The road skirts it for a short distance, and then |
turns away to the east.

Every now and then on either bank are patches of pure
white sand and very open mimoss woods, between which
the blue masses of Jebel Kaduku and Jebel Kisiga become
visible in the west. Not far from here, to the right hand of
the road, is the spot where, three years ago, Linant was obliged
to fight Kabréga's people for the passage over the Khor Kifu.
In all the hollows of the ground are water and black mud.
Open woods with low trees border the road. I observed
Mimosae with white thorns, species of Ficus, Combrets, now
and then a vitex, and solitary Doléb palms. 'The last
only attain a height of thirty or forty feet, and are not to

WAGANDA PORTERS. 29

_ be compared with their giant sisters growing farther north
between latitudes 8° and 10°.

The porters having been twice permitted to take a short rest,
the rapid march continued. The Waginda are splendid, inde-
fatigable porters. Following the sound of the drums which
called to us, we arrived early at our night's quarters, con-
sisting of several huts surrounded by plantations of sweet
potatoes, a solanum with edible red berries of the size of
cherries, and some bananas. The place is called Btuti, and
belongs to Kabréga. From there to our next night quarters,
Kyivambiri, was a hard march of over eight hours, rendered
more difficult by enormous pools of water extending far and
wide over the gently undulating land, and fringed by small
date palms. No attempt at cultivation breaks the ever-
lasting monotony of swamp, water, and Cyperus grass. No
house invites the stranger to enter and rest a while. Groups
of euphorbias and mimosas form the only relief to the swampy
land covered with tall grass, in which thousands of black and
white striped mosquitoes hold their concerts. The night was
not rendered more comfortable by the occurrence of two
thunderstorms at an interval of three hours from one another ;
and we were glad when, early in the morning, after the usual
delays, the march was recommenced. At the beginning of a
march every one tries to seize upon the lightest load ; many
endeavour, by hiding themselves, to avoid their duties altogether.
When, however, after long debates, accompanied by the personal
intervention of the chief, the people get the luggage once
divided, then there can be found no better porters or more
' enduring than the. Wagianda. Boys of ten or twelve years of
age carry loads bigger than themselves.

The water stood everywhere knee-deep upon the perfectly
level plain, thickly grown with grasses. A path eighteen
inches or two feet broad led us through this chaos of water
and mud. Where elephants had used it, their visits were
plainly indicated by holes, into which we sometimes fell. We
saw troops of elephants and small herds of buffaloes at a
distance from the road, enjoying themselves in the mud. If
our caravan approached them the buffaloes rushed madly
away, kicking up the water behind them, whereas the elephants

30 FROM MRCOLI TO RUBACGA.

retired at a short trot. Very noticeable were the swarms of
small butterflies which flew round us in the middle of the
swamps, often alighting upon our hands. - Throughout this
swamp land small patches of higher ground form occasional
islands. - They are thickly covered by low mimosas, and many
of them are crowned with groups of gneiss blocks some ten
feet in height. One wonders how it is possible for them to
have found their way into the middle of this level swamp land.
So we marched on through thick and thin, and when I
remarked to the leaders that they might let us halt for the
day, as the porters must be tired by wading through the mud,
I was told that our quarters for the night were quite near. It
turned out, however, that they were at least three hours distant,
which will give an idea of the Wagiinda's marching powers-
when they do march.

At last the country commenced to rise slightly, the red
clayey ground being covered by a dense wood of prickly
mimosas ; and a large, well-cared-for banana grove, in which
there were many nice huts, provided us with a halting-place
for the night. As usual, the entire population of the village
had fled, with bag and baggage, on our approach, leaving us
only the empty huts. The banana grove, however, was full
of fruit, and quantities of ripe durrah, maize, and Sorghum
saccharatum, as well as sweet potatoes, furnished a rich table,
to which, after the fatigues of the march, we did full justice.
During the day we had had heavy showers, but in the night
it poured in torrents, and when we started early next morning
the clouded sky looked very threatening. |

As far as the eye can reach, level lightly wooded ground
stretched out before us. It was covered in many places by
mud and puddles of water, but the dry patches were more
numerous than the day before. The soil for the most part
was a grey clay, abounding in vegetable debris, and overlying
the thick stratum of red ferruginous clay which extended
far and near. On our arrival at the Dubenge marsh, the
waters of which flow off to the river Ergugu, a short halt was
necessary in order to make our swamp toilets. All strictly
unnecessary clothes, together with the hundred and one small
impedimenta which a traveller requires every moment on

i

ARRIVAL IN UGANDA. 31

the road-watch, compass, aneroid, &e.-were made up into

a bundle and carried upon the head. The water reached up
to our necks, and was filled with the decomposing detritus of
plants. The rays of the sun were scorching, and clouds of
mosquitoes took the opportunity of attacking us with impunity.
Slowly the porters marched forward, feeling each step of the
way with their spears. Their work was almost superhuman,
but still no single load was dropped in the swamp! the cross-
ing of which lasted nearly an hour, when we again reached
the solid ground. With the passage of this swamp we left
Kabréga's land behind us, and found ourselves upon Mtésa's
territory.

The district of Kahuira, the first we entered, is under the
government of the great chief Mreko. He was our guide,
and had consequently to do the honours of his land. The
village of Kiramba, lying in the midst of a large banana grove,
is composed of very many huts, and encircled by fields of sweet
potatoes and violet-flowering lubias. Two or three houses, each
surrounded by high colocasias, form a small group, in the midst
of which is situated an empty miniature hut dedicated to the
higher powers. A fig-tree hung with large shells, an aloe with
beautiful horizontally white-striped leaves, and a species of
Liliacea called " Mramra" are invariably to be found near
these votive huts; and aromatic plants or beautiful flowers
are often grown near them.

Late in the evening I received the very pleasing intelligence
that one of the guides had got a thorn in his foot, and could
only march with the greatest difficulty. He was willing,
notwithstanding, to proceed on condition that the march
should be very short, and requested that I should be indul-
gent to him. Full well I knew that this was only an excuse
in order to obtain an opportunity for the porters to have a good
bout of drinking ménge, the intoxicating banana beer. But
what could I do? Our next day's march was, indeed, only
too short, but it permitted me to shoot to my keart's content
pigeons and guinea-fowl, of which there are immense numbers
here. Rolling, well wooded ground provides them with good
shelter, and extensive fields of sweet potatoes and Hlewusine
coracana (used in brewing) afford them abundance of food.

  
   
  

32 FROM MROLLI TO RUBAGA. |

(
Kattyang beans also are extensively cultivated here. From u
this place we passed through a small swamp, up to our waists,.
and reached Bziggara, where we were to halt for a day's rest.

The Uganda language possesses two words for tobacco-.
taba and mtéri; but I cannot at present decide whether j
mtéri means Nicotiana rustice and tabo exclusively N. Toba-_
cum or not. In Unyoro also we find two words for tobacco, -
namely, téba and irk¢ébwé.

I was favoured by a visit from a minstrel. He was decked _.
with the fleece of the long-haired Usoga goat, and disguised |
by a long white pointed beard, which partially concealed his i
mouth and only permitted him to mumble. After he had i
seated himself in the middle of a circle of spectators he began |
with supple fingers "to strike a chord" upon a seven-stringed _
guitar. A short prelude developed into a recitative of simple
rhythm, praising the beads and the generosity of the white .
stranger. As the song proceeded, the long beard commenced |
regular up and down movements, and it was very droll
to see how the singer, bending his head to the right or to i
the left upon his shoulder, made his beard dance in time to 1
the guitar. The chief effect, however, was when he bent back |
his head upon his neck, so that the beard pointed directly up- _
wards, in which position he gave forth a long gurgling r-r-r-r-r-r, i
to which the beard vibrated, invariably provoking peals of long-
continued laughter. The bard was rewarded by some glass
beads, and by way of thanks he stretched himself flat upon the
ground, and placing his open hands together, made the vertical
movement of thanks, saying at the same time " Nyanzig," after _
the Waginda fashion.

The pleasures of the evening were indeed crowned by the
festivities of night, for at midnight a tremendous thunder-
storm broke over us, and as the rain came down in streaming
torrents, my tent was overthrown by oxen who were frightened
by the constant lightning. My people, as usual on such occa-
sions, were sleeping the sleep of the just, and so there was
nothing for it but, in the midst of heaven's floods, to put my
traps to rights myself as best I could. ‘ A

I had hardly returned from shooting guinea-fowl-an oc-
cupation always possible here-when a troop of my porters _

 

 

MEDICAL NOTES. 33

appeared, bringing towards me in their midst a very grotesque
figure. _ Its body was decked with bunches of green leaves, upon
its head was placed a wreath of straw, the blades of which
stood upright, and its legs and arms were encased in green
leaves; and thus decked out this new performer was led up
and down by a rope tied round his neck amidst universal
«holloas." Then he began to dance, the time being kept by
the hand-clapping of the spectators. Shaking and trembling
movements of the body, the feet being fixed, alternated with
hopping round upon one leg and deep obeisances ; until at
length, completely mastered by fatigue, he closed his enter-
tainment with the usual pantomimic thanks.

Many of these people have large white patches upon their
hands, caused by a loss of pigment, and possibly connected
with syphilis. I had the opportunity of seeing the same
affection many times in Uginda last year. The skin over the
parts affected shows no signs of altered texture, nor is any
palpable difference to be felt; women often suffer from it.
It is a curious fact that from about 3° N. lat. to the equator
the Filaria medinensis or guinea-worm appears to be entirely
unknown, whereas farther to the north it is one of the most
frequent diseases. The same causes which apparently give
rise to the disease in these latitudes are far more potent here,
but it is true that some negro tribes appear excessively pre-
disposed to it, whereas others are almost entirely free.

Notwithstanding that since midnight it had poured in
torrents, we commenced our march early in the morning,
heartily glad to escape the indescribable plague of gnats ; and,
as if to reward us for our exertions, the sky became gradually
clear, at least clear enough to permit us to enjoy a comfort-
able march. Laughing and singing, the men hurriedly ad-
vanced, for that day Mréko's headquarters were to be reached.
The porters actually danced along, often raising with both
hands their loads high above their heads, singing in chorus,
accompanied by horns and flutes playing, and interspersed with
loud cries and calls, Mréko's big drum breaking in now and
then with its droning tones-a striking if inharmonious concert.
Forward, through deeply undulating park land, broken up by
many swampy patches, we advanced almost at a trot. At

C

34 MROLL TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA.

length, owing to our ascent into drier ground, the narrow path .
widened out into a well-kept broad road, bounded by trees and
gardens. The farther we proceeded the more beautiful and
highly cultivated grew the land: luxuriant fields of sweet.
potatoes, juicy green tobacco, yellow-flowering ground nuts,.
fields of maize and sorghum, all divided from one another
by cleanly kept paths; whilst in the background there were
groves of bananas, in which not a weed is permitted, splendid
fig-trees of different species, tall euphorbias, and thickets of
climbing plants. 1
Naturally the bird world was not wanting there. - Hundreds J
of splendid astrilds and amading fluttered in and out amongst
the dense foliage; everywhere the weaver-birds had hung their -
swinging nests; flocks of guinea-fowl scrape up sweet potatoes ;
we heard the " bellowing " of the schizcerhis, flying in pairs ;-
white-breasted ravens stalked about the ground, and high in.
the air the kite (Milvus parasiticus) flew in ever-changing.
circles. - Many large huts lay scattered in the fields; their
inhabitants stood in groups upon the way, many clothed in
white cotton stuff. " Ofano, nyo, nyoge" was the greeting we
received in passing. Shots echoed in the air, and, accom--
panied by hundreds of spectators, we arrived in a large open 3
space where huts had been prepared for our reception. g
My tent was hardly erected before a man, a perfect stranger _
to me, brought me a bunch of ripe golden bananas, a sign of-
welcome, and Mréko took leave to greet his wife and chil-
dren. It was afternoon before we had made ourselves at home, _
and the rain had hardly stopped for a moment when a proces- a
sion approached my tent. - It was led by Mréko and Kanagurba, -
both clothed in white vestments. They were bringing mefi
presents: baskets full of large red sweet potatoes, bunches if
of green and ripe bananas wrapped in green leaves, enormous,
gourds full of frothy sandi (fresh banana wine, a very pleasant 2
tipple), small native hens, and a long-legged cock of the.
bastard race, whose ancestor once found its way here from.
a black, high-humped cow, and-rarity of rarities
-a dozen eggs in a pretty little basket. - Both
men had, as their somewhat thick speech indicated, done all;
honour to the banana wine, which was even then being offered

 

    
 
 
 
 

 

AT MREKOS VILLAGE. 35

to them by kneeling servants, and they were in consequence a
little excited. Still, they showed themselves entirely at their
ease, drank their coffee, and-now comes the point-they
begged me to remain here a few days, Mountains of bananas,
piles of eggs, rivers of wine, were held out to me as inducements;
and when I at last, half laughingly, half angrily, consented,
their joy knew no bounds. The whole company, flourishing
their spears aloft, danced round me, and the pouring rain
alone put an end to their expressions of gratitude. The
sound of the mandinda (a wooden harmonica), and the songs
of the women in honour of their lord and master, filled the
air until late into the night.
For eight days it had rained incessantly. The rain had
long since ceased between Ladd and Fatiko. Between Fatiko
and Mriali (3° 1'-1° 35' N. lat.), perhaps, an occasional
shower still fell; but here there was rain every day, and fre-
quently from three to four times in the course of twenty-
four hours.
I was regularly besieged in my tent, especially by women,
who came in great numbers to look at me. Nevertheless I
cannot complain of actual molestation, for the people were
well behaved. I also met here an old acquaintance, Matongali
Mbazi, who had visited me in Kabréga's capital, and who
had heard in his village, which is situated about four hours
away, that I was here. He now came to greet me, and to
bring me a sheep. He himself belongs to the Wahuma
race, who are entrusted with the care of the herds. - Several of
their women came to me to-day; they are characterised by
their pretty oval orthognathous faces, rather well-developed ears,
and beautiful large eyes, varying in colour from light brown
to yellowish grey. The girls of this race are highly thought
of in this country. It would be exceedingly interesting to
discover if the Wahuma possess the remnant of a language
of their own, and to what origin this remnant points.

A long break in the rainfall permitted the crescent of the
i new moon (December 6th) to be seen, and it was greeted by
i salvos of guns and the beating of all the drums in the country.
'The atmosphere was so clear that both the dark part of the
(moon and the illuminated rim were visible. I have never in

RT TET THe

36 MRULI TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA.

my life seen anything equal to it. To-day I obtained as booty

a huge antelope. The animal, which outwardly resembles the _

hump-backed bullock (Antilope oreas), is found everywhere in

small herds. A magnificent black mane, with a rich bushy _

growth of hair on the forehead and under the neck, a well-
marked hump, and majestic horns, which, in the case of my
specimen rise straight up after one and a half turns, distin-
guish this animal. - Its fur is short, crisp, and buff coloured ;
its back is marked by a black longitudinal stripe, from which

twelve white stripes pass round towards the belly, running .
parallel to each other and of about a finger's-breadth. My _
specimen, a full grown male, provided meat for the whole of our -

caravan.
The marches from here to Mtésa's residence have one feature

in common, they are all quite short; and it is impossible, even _

by prayers or threats, to urge the people to make longer

marches. If a village lies in the way a halt is certain to be |

made in order to drink and to rest, and, if a day's march lasts
longer than two hours one may think oneself fortunate. The
stores of beer at last appeared to be exhausted in Mréko's

hut, and so he decided to make a start. A short march |

led to Khor Ergugu, an enormous morass, the waters of
which form the chief supply of Khor Kifu. Neither water-
channel nor current was to be seen ; grasses, mud, and water,
reaching breast- high, filled a gully running between two rows of
hills from the south-east to' the north-west, which took us fifty
minutes of laborious wading to pass through. Then came
plantations, sometimes close together, sometimes lying like
islands in the middle of high grass. Kangani's territory,
Beramese, here abuts on Mréko's district. After we had
passed through another bog we stopped for the night at a
small village called Kapéki.

In the house which was assigned me there hung huge
baskets used for storing corn and in the preparation of
mweénge, and gourds and small baskets were lying all about.
Before the door were hung an immense number of curlously
shaped stones, small gomdx eggs, and half-charred pleces of

human skulls as amulets. The skulls, when thrown in pieces on |

to the fields, are believed to increase the fertility of the soil.

a i8 igh» barnes

s

h
$

rq

 

 

WAHUMA HERDSMEN. 37

J

- Dracsenas and aloes grew near the house, and colocasias
surrounded it. I noticed for the first time here, and often
subsequently, that on the under surface of the colocasia leaves
there is a blackish green lobe-shaped excrescence, chiefly along
the ribs of the leaves. Hardly a leaf was free from it, and
yet the plant did not seem to be affected by the parasite, but
was in a very flourishing condition, which was probably due
very much to the frequent trenching of the earth around it.
In my opinion the roots of the colocasias afford the most tasty
vegetable to be found in Central Africa.

There was no change in the landscape during the following
march, which led through the wet, muddy bottom of the valley
between two parallel ranges of hills. - Swamps with elegant date
_, palms, hills which transversely cross the path or run alongside
of it, banana groves, and houses, succeeded each other in motley
sequence. In the middle of one of the swamps the sound of a
big kettledrum, which signals the approach of a person of rank,
was heard, and shortly after, Matongali Nyakabua, chief of all
the Wahima herdsmen in Mréko's district, passed us after a
short greeting. - His people, with spears, and bows and arrows
(very seldom seen in Uganda), carried on their heads their
chief's baggage carefully wrapped up in bark mats and skins.
Soon arterwards the village of Irkiabwe was passed, and its in-
habitants did not run away, whereas hitherto all except Mréko's
people had fled before us. At last we reached Guru, where
we halted for the night, as it threatened to rain. I was to
enjoy the luxury of a house that night, but had first to receive
Mtésa's messengers, who brought me his greetings, and after
resting for a moment, took their departure. According to their
account, the rain was pouring down in torrents every day at
Mtésa's, and the whole country was flooded, which I could easily
believe, because it had only rained here four times that day, and
yet we had been wading half the way in water breast high.
The seams of my boots were splitting open, as the constant
wet had caused the thread to rot.

In spite of repeated calls, the people only made their appear-
ance this morning after I had sent for them three or four times,
and even then they hesitated a long time before starting, because
the sun had not risen high enough to warm the water through

38 MRCLI TO RUBAGA INX UGANDA.

which we had to go. At last, after a vast amount of persua-
sion, we started, and went right into the swamp, which is here
nearly two miles broad. At first we were only knee-deep in
aud, thick grass, and papyrus, the appearance of which so
far from the river surprised me greatly ; but soon the water
deepened, and we were quickly up to the neck in it, and that
for a long time-longer than we liked. The loads had to be
balanced on the head, and great care to be taken to prevent
falling, especially as the mud was tenacious like pitch, and
stuck to the soles of our feet. Added to this were the burn-
ing sun, the gnats, and the bad-smelling exhalations from the
swamp-a real African treat! Step by step the procession
moved forward, and, mirabile dictu, this day again no harm
befell us.

The playing of flutes and noise of song celebrated our arrival
on terra firma, and after crossing the low hills which dam up
the swamp, we plunged again into the banana groves, until a
large open space with shady trees bade us rest. The porters,
whose unshaken good-humour was again a source of wonder
to me, well deserved the huge vessels full of mwénge which
were quickly requisitioned from the surrounding houses; and
my guides, too, after conducting a sham fight, did not neglect
to indulge in the pleasure of a drink. This very straggling
place is called Tima. - Masses of bananas, a great deal of white
maize and red durrah, both ripening, sweet potatoes, and a very
large number of colocasias grow here. The latter seem to
have run wild in the muddy soil, which suits them well ; at

any rate they cover the land for a great distance, while usually |

they are only found singly, planted round huts. Their tubers
are very large, and are pure white.

The banana plantations are generally very well kept; but once
a year the grass in them is allowed to shoot, and is then pulled
up and placed in great bunches around each banana plant, this

being the only manure employed. When the rotting is at an |

end, which very soon takes place, absolutely no blade of grass
can be found between the stems, and the grove looks like a

huge and very carefully kept garden,. - There are in Uganda

three kinds of bananas, which are known by the natives through _

their leaf and stem-Keyk, with small insipid fruits, used only

 

 

 

 

 

TAMA TO KABARU. 39

in the preparation of beer ; Niamuny@, the golden medium-sized
sweet fruits of which have a delicious white pulp, and are used
for eating as well as for the manufacture of banana wine; Kar-
ambe, with firm fruit of a span's length, having brick-red skins,
and only employed for eating-decidedly the best kind. The
natives seldom eat ripe bananas; but the green fruit, alone,
or cooked with meat, forms the basis of their food, - It is
remarkable that many of the fruit-bearing plants show well-
marked red ribs on their leaves, corresponding with Muse
Ensete, the mother of their species, which comes often enough to
the fore here, but has nothing remarkable about its shape. -It is
found from Fatiko (3000 feet high) on towards the south every-
where, and its large black seeds are much liked for necklaces.

The distance between Tama and Kabiru was short, and as
the road seemed to lead through a great garden, we soon reached
our journey's end. - As regards the grass, it is just the reverse
of what it was in the north ; there tall grass was the rule, and
plantations were only met with occasionally ; here there is one
cultivated stretch of land after another, and houses in great
numbers, and where tracts of land covered with high grass are
found, the latter seems to be spared on purpose to provide
material for housebuilding. - It was fortunate that I had a roof
over my head, for immediately after our arrival the rain, which
had been threatening since morning, began to descend in
torrents.

My house, under the projecting roof of which were hung as
charms small bundles of maize, lubia, and durrah, neatly rolled
up in banana leaves, was full of earthen vessels, bark cloth,
and gourd bottles. There were also the large baskets mentioned
above, wide at the top, narrowing towards the bottom, and
closely plaited, in case of being needed for the manufacture of
beer. In this case a pap of bananas mashed with water is put
into them, and they are buried in the earth, and covered with
banana leaves and a thick layer of hay until the fermentation
begins. In all the houses were suspended small baskets filled
with hay, which are used as roosts for fowls, these being very
small, but kept in great numbers.

There are no trees in the banana groves except several
varieties of the fig, which are used for the manufacture of

40 MBRCLTI TO RUEBAGAK IN UGAKDA.

cloth, and here and there a dracaena. As soon as the fig-trees
are stripped, they are wrapped round with a sheath of banana
leaves, in order to preserve them from insects, and to promote
the process of regrowth in the bark, which takes place by
means of the bundles of fibres that run out from the remaining
bark above and below. The bark may be employed for this
purpose until the tree is two and a half to three years old, but
as a rule the same tree is only stripped twice. The first time
it produces a thick coarse cloth, the second time a uniformly
finer one. White-flowering, rose-tinted tobacco vir-
gimana) is universally cultivated near the houses. Its light-
green leaves are a span long, of a sharp, aromatic odour, and
the entire shrub grows to a height of about three feet. Special
stands of about a foot high, made of dry wood, are erected for
the gourd tendrils. White and yellow flowering species are
very plentiful, and the fruit is used for eating, and for an
innumerable variety of vessels, the leaves being eaten as a
vegetable. Spoons are cut out of the rind of the fruit.

Late in the evening I received a visit from a lady. She
was still a young woman, with stolid, expressionless face, but
remarkably beautiful small feet and hands. She was attired
in coloured goat-skins, richly decorated with small stones,
horns, and cowrie shells, and arrived playing on a small gourd
containing many holes. She belongs to a class of homeless
wanderers-gipsies, I may call them-who are constantly met
with throughout Unyoro and Ugidnda, and who appear to be
the remainder of a distinct tribe. They resemble gipsies in the
vagabond life they lead, in their practice of sooth-saying, and in
the manufacture of all kinds of amulets and charms, as also in
their love for music.

When we continued our way next morning, the dew-be-
sprinkled banana groves shone beneath a brilliant blue expanse
of sky. There is really something very fascinating on a
morning like this amidst such surroundings. - Mréko, who
had probably not got up enough "steam," had remained be-
hind, and so we were soon obliged to halt amongst huts and
banana groves to wait for him. The place is named Duéro,
and its neat huts, often with projecting tripartite gables,
nestle in the midst of extensive plantations. The red durrah

 

ingin rai

inplid inin cin Aima erica comida

A HOSTILE MEETING, 41

waved its loaded ears in the morning breeze; the sun lighted
up in a thousand different colours the dewdrops which hung
upon every leaf; flickering shadows danced around us. The
houses were, however, closed by strong reed doors ; their occu-
pants were not to be seen, and soon a report spread that we
were to be attacked. We therefore continued our march in
close order through the high grass, which would have served
as an excellent ambush for an enemy, but no enemy appeared.
A short march over grass-clad hills, where now and then we
caught a glimpse of a distant mountain, and through open
mimosa woods, fantastically lit up in the twilight, took us to
Kirembwe, where, notwithstanding my protestations, we were
to remain for the night.

After a long search among the bananas, we at last found
suitable huts, and soon after the cries and shouts of the
tipsy porters and chiefs were heard, together with the tom-
toming of their drums; like fighting-cocks the chiefs sprang
towards each other, brandishing their two spears in a threaten-
ing attitude and shrieking furiously. After several minutes,
however, both returned in a brotherly manner to the gourd
bottles, and a deep draught rewarded them for their exertions.
It was a regular beer procession. From village to village,
or rather from beer-jug to beer-jug, we marched, on this the
thirteenth day since leaving Mruli.

At midday I was engaged in collecting insects and worms,
when all of a sudden a spear struck the ground beside
me, and at the same time several shots rang through the
banana grove. Being completely unarmed, I returned to
my hut, and almost close to my door a man fell, pierced
through the right kidney by a spear. Two other men were
badly wounded directly afterwards by bullets. In a few
minutes our encampment resembled a fortification, for every
one was sensible enough to return to it at once. The doors
were blocked by hurriedly-torn-up banana trees, and in all the
enclosures huts for sentries were erected. Our still half-
drunken people stalked about fully armed, and my two chiefs,
by this time thoroughly intoxicated, made a brave show with
their long guns. The patrols, who had been sent out in all
directions, soon returned, bringing with them some ten women

42 MROLL TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA. f

and children, three or four men, and several goats, as booty..
I was at once given clearly to understand that we must now
remain here two days, in order that it might not appear as if
we were robbers running away with our spoil. I naturally
remonstrated very strongly against this interpretation, and
requested the gentlemen to set free their prisoners and the .
goats, for then none could accuse us of robbery. 'This they |
at first refused to do, but after the night had passed in perfect i

 

#

quiet, just as I had expected, they at last consented to listen to -
my protestations; and after we had given our wounded into the
care of some neighbouring friendly chiefs, we continued our
march, taking with us, however, our prisoners, who were to be
delivered up to Mtésa. g
The ground rose sensibly yesterday, and as soon as we had
left the banana grove to-day we commenced to climb overi
ridges of hills, in the valleys between which were muddy
watercourses. The hills ran directly across our route, which
gradually rose until the heights between the mountains of,
Duhili and Naduima being passed, we arrived at a number
of granite blocks thrown together in groups at the edge of
the first-named mountain, and interspersed among bananas.
From here there opened out an extensive view across the
country, - This place seemed made for taking a triangulation
of the numerous mountain peaks which range themselves on
all sides in the distance. Banana groves, with groups of huts,
green fields, blue mountains, shady valleys, and a smiling:
heaven, composed an enchanting picture before our eyes, and
merrily we continued our way over firm red clay, right through.
the banana groves. A road about twenty feet broad, clean
and well kept, led to our night-quarters at Kyikisa. Upon
the road we traversed to-day the Canna indica grows abun-
dantly, in full red bloom, the same as that which I noticed so.
often last year at Fauvera. The black round seeds are made,
into necklaces. Notwithstanding that the plant is so common,
here, it does not appear to have been noticed by any traveller. |
A brilliant moonlight night followed an equally beautiful |
day. It is a unique pleasure to sit in the deep darkness of,
a banana grove, and to watch the play of the ever-changing.
shadows which the bluish moonlight throws through the

 

A WAHUMA VILLAGE. 43

éthick foliage upon the dark red ground. An almost ghostly
| silence reigns over all; only at times the mighty banana
| leaves rustle softly, just as if they dreamed. The ghostly
forms of large bats flit through the air; Cosmetornis Spekii,
' the "father of the four wings," flies silently with its long
feathers fluttering; bluish lights mark the trail of large glow-
worms, and buzzing moths in sombre garb are almost invisible
to the eye in the darkness of the night. A deep, sweet breath
of peace is wafted over the face of nature.

As usual, all my traps were packed up and placed before my
hut door, and I myself was ready for the march, sitting under
a tree. No porters, however, appeared, and when I, after
waiting for them a whole hour, sent for my guides, they pre-
ferred not to come, but sent me word that I could unpack my
goods again, as they intended to remain here both to-day and
to-morrow. - At last my patience was exhausted. I sent word
to them immediately that they had better take good care of my
things, as I intended to set off at once. My words were fol-
lowed by deeds, and, accompanied only by my few people and
the porters who were carrying the ammunition, I started on
my way, compass in hand.

Over very high mountainous ground we climbed up to Mount
Sempa, the summit of which, tradition says, no human being
can ever reach, because hyenas guard the way, warning off
wanderers from the mountain. Leaving it to the right, and
gradually getting higher, we passed a neat zeribe, and shortly
afterwards a village inhabited by dark-coloured Wahuma herds-
men. Six or seven houses for cattle, and two or three for
herds, encircled by high, thick, thorn hedges, formed the dirty
and neglected compounds, of which there were four or five on
the road. On account of the character of the Wahuma, who
live almost entirely on milk, cultivation worth naming was not
to be seen. A small, newly planted field of sweet potatoes and
a few gourd plants twining over the hedges, and that was all.
From this height, which is quite covered by granite blocks, a
steep descent leads to a swampy plain covered by high grass,
through which a small stream flows to the east. This was the

-first running water we had seen since we left Mruli.
We were now in Muambia, which district I reached last year

 

$3 MRUOLL TO RUEBAGA IN UGAKXDA.

by a different route. Through grass and reeds the road winds
by a hundred curves up the steep mountain of Kydpisi, the:
pass of which is marked by a single fig-tree visible from a long.
distance. _ Unfortunately, gigantic grasses shut out every view,
Reaching the top of the pass, a very fruitful land spread itself.
out before us. - Extensive plantations of every kind hemmed in 23
the road. - Heavily-laden cornfields awaited the reapers. Before
the huts great heaps of green tobacco and yellow maize were
drying, but no inhabitant was to be seen. No sound was heard
among the silent houses, not even the cackle of a hen. A
death-like silence hung over the whole land. Upon the enor-
mous square, outside Muambia's chief village, Degéa, the grass -
grew knee-high, and the extensive courtyards and houses were
deserted. In the burning midday sun rustled the bare branches -
of a poisonous euphorhia. - Lizards ran quickly over the road.
A poison-tree in a devastated land! For this was the ex-_
planation of the silence. - Mtésa's emissaries had fallen upon -
this district by night and carried off people and herds, stores,
and household goods, to pander to their ruler's covetousness.
Pieces of newly-made mbugu, half-finished and delicately-woven -
grass mats, still lay before some of the houses ; the housewives
had been torn away from their work to increase the number of-
slaves in the king's household.

We marched on and reached the little district of Nasirie, -
where human beings again made their appearance, and where
all seemed to be indulging in the full enjoyment of their own
possessions. _ Here a clear, flowing stream, journeying from west-
to east, babbled along in its deep sandy bed, and soon after fol-
lowed one of those deep morasses that exist only in Uganda, and
about which E. Linant so bitterly complained. One sinks up _
to the waist in the black, thick, stinking mud, and although _-
people have tried to erect a kind of bridge in some places with
the stems of the abundant date palm, those places are just |
the most dangerous, because the stems, having no firm founda- _
tion, invariably roll away from under the foot when one steps _
on them. After sundry halts we happily regained dry ground, |
and marching through clean reed fences we reached the thickly- _
populated village Kitikuba, which belongs to my old acquaint _
ance Kyibrango, who unfortunately was absent.

 

 

 

A HOMELY DINNER. 45

Although it was raining hard, and we were compelled
| to halt, difficulties were at first put in our way, but at
last we were allowed to take possession of two houses; and
' when I gave permission for the ox we had brought with
us to be killed, a lively trade ensued between my people, who
offered meat in exchange for other things, and the inhabitants

of the village, who brought for barter sweet potatoes, bananas,
and especially cobs of maize in bundles. So our evening meal
was arranged for very satisfactorily. Meat roasted in ashes,
and maize cobs prepared in the same way instead of bread, are
not at all to be despised. Just as we were so engaged, there
suddenly appeared three of Mréko's people, who had been sent
after me to persuade me to wait. - Exceedingly comical was the
description of these Matongali how Mréko had inquired after
me all along the way, and had everywhere been told that we
had passed long ago! and how at last he naively asked, how
in the world I had found my way alone.

Crowds of people surrounded me at every step, and amongst
them many women. Specially striking was a tall, red-brown
girl of about eight years old, quite naked, unless one can give
the name of clothing to a cord with three pieces of wood, of
from one or two inches long, hanging in front. Her breasts
were not yet developed. This was the first case that I saw in
Uganda of a female being quite unclothed, but I was subse-
quently told that here, as in Unyoro, the girls usually go
about nude until puberty. - Boys of six to seven years old are
very frequently seen in this state, but they always wear a small
apron. - Men and women cover themselves with large pieces of
bark cloth tied in a knot over the shoulder; the women gene-
rally simply wrap themselves in it, making it fast just under
the armpits. Both sexes, however, wear a kind of under-
garment of the same material, reaching in the case of the
men from the hips to the knees, and in that of the women as
far as the ankles. The upper-garment is frequently fastened
on by a girdle of skin or dried banana leaves.

I noticed here for the first time an abundance of sugarcane
of the blue-green variety.

My things had not yet arrived, so that this time I had to
sleep on green banana leaves. If only it were not so terribly

46 MROLL TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA.

cold in the mornings! - Yesterday morning at six o'clock we

had 60° Fahr., and to-day only 59°, which really is cold. We.
get to the fire and miss our warm coffee, but a few maize .
cobs answer the same purpose, and afford warmth as well as .

nourishment.

To save time, I gave orders for the onward march, notwith-
standing the want of my things and the threatening rain-clouds,
but we had hardly passed the mud puddles just beyond the

village and climbed the hill, when the rain poured down in -

torrents, and compelled us to turn aside into the bush, that is,

to seek a small zertibe away from the road and rest there. |
After about an hour and a half the rain fortunately ceased, .
and we had hardly advanced a couple of miles between walls of -

high grass when Kanagurba's people came rushing towards me
and said that he had marched past us in the rain, and was
awaiting us in the banana groves that lay ahead.

The little river Kairira rushes over the road between blocks
of gneiss mixed with mica; its course can be made out for a
long distance by huge date palms; its water is cold, and
clear as crystal, Immediately beyond it are some swamps,
with the indispensable bridges made of round sticks, and then
the road rises to the bananas of the village of Kasidié, where
we were to take up our night quarters. Kanagurba had
arrived before me, and after waiting some time, the porters too
arrived with my things, led by Mréko, who came to pay me a
visit. - One must say this for the Waginda, that they have an
immense amount of bounce, and are, one might say, so uncon-
sciously impudent that one gets angry with them a hundred
times only to laugh at them in the end.

We had hardly settled down, when one of Mtésa's messengers,

 

 

dressed in clean bark cloth, appeared with an English letter for f

me, which informed me that my house was ready, but that I
might rest for two days at each place on the way, in order not
to overtire myself. I am now highly delighted that I marched
yesterday and to-day. From here to Mtésa's is only four hours,
and yet I shall be compelled to spend three or four days on the
way ; so that yesterday's march has gained me at least four days.
To explain how I came by the English letter, I think I must
mention that a young Suaheli, who was once Stanley's ser-

A WAGANDA "SPELL." 47

vant, and who understands English, has for more than two
years acted as dragoman and secretary to Mtésa. His name
is Mita Dallington.

So we are to rest! 'There hangs in my house, carefully
wrapped up in bark cloth, the vertebral column of a python ;
a piece of it bound round the bodies of little children is said to
be an infallible preventive of colic and convulsions. A deluge
of rain occupied the remainder of the day and the night.

When I asked my leaders to-day why Muambia's land is
totally depopulated, they said that there was in Uginda a
_ powerful magic called kampodi, and that when it spreads over
a land it depopulates it far and near. When I asked if this
magic affected the goats, cows, and house utensils, both gentle-
men were silent. From this it appears as if Mtésa always
enveloped his plundering expeditions with a veil of mystery :
faith or superstition does indeed always go hand in hand with
cruelty.

The signals for marching had been sounding since day-
break, but the rain prevented our starting for a long time,
and it was late when we were again making our way up and
down hill, on a road between blocks of granite. Here and
there tall grass, over ten feet high, formed a living wall on
both sides of the road ; but narrow paths indicated the presence
of gardens and plantations behind this wall. A broad, deep
swamp took up a long time, and was passed through with great
difficulty, and then began the ascent which leads to the village
of Kiti, near which rises the mountain of the same name. The
descent led to the little stream Babinge, which was, however,
swollen very high by the long-continued rain. Its ever-flow-
ing waters empty themselves into the Mianja, the real source
of the great Khor Kiafu. A little further on I found all my
porters collected in a banana grove, near some houses, each
with a huge piece of sugar-cane in the hand, and when I
requested them to move on, I was told that it was impossible,
because the country in front of us belonged to the king's wives,
and that no one was allowed to pass the night there, which,
being interpreted, probably means that no one is permitted to
plunder there. We were in consequence obliged to remain
here, and as our provisions were exhausted, I requested my

48 MRULL TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA.

guides to give me an ox for slaughter. The people had with
them oxen and goats, which were given by the king as pro-
vision for myself and my people. They have, however, never
given me one, as they probably wish to sell them as soon as
we arrive at the capital. The name of our halting place was
Debatu (not identical with Linant's Debatu), and is celebrated
throughout Uginda on account of the quantity and excellence
of its bananas. - Unfortunately I could obtain nothing for my
journal, for the inhabitants had all fled ; nor could I add to my
collections, on account of the continuous rain. Never in all
my life have I seen so many Amaranthus plants in one place
as here; their red fans form regular fields; a white variety is
said to exist, but I have never yet seen it. No tamarinds
appear to grow here.

I was honoured to-day by another dispatch from the king.
A young man, named Amara, in a dark blouse and pantaloons,
whom I had seen last year, and who was accompanied by about
forty soldiers clad in white cotton clothes, and armed with old
flint-locks, brought me his royal master's greetings, and after
having informed me that he would come half-way to meet me
to-morrow, he returned with my greetings to Mtésa's capital.

At last the day for our final march arrived.. As usual,
on account of a thunder storm, we started late. We waded
through yellow mud, which covered the road, until we arrived
at the river Kandubituyu, the cold water of which flowing
over yellowish white sand reached up to our middles. An
hour later we came upon the Mianja, the largest water-

course we have yet seen, which also had a broad white .

sandy bed and was filled with clear cold water. A third very
small stream, which flows into the Mianja, followed, and sub-
sequently enormous gutters full of mud, until at last the rising
path bordered by bananas and leading over firm ferruginous
clay, brought us to a magnificent Boswellia, which, situated
between granite and quartz blocks towering one above another,

was visible at a considerable distance. Upon one of the next ,

hills I ordered a halt in order to give my people time to don
their uniforms. The march was then resumed. Shots rang
out ; thousands of people surrounded us yelling and gesticulat-
ing; my guides marched in a long row, headed by beating

ARRIVAL AT RUBAGA. 49

drums; and when we arrived at a cross-road at Mount Dugoba
we came upon a deputation led by Amara, whom Mtésa had
sent to greet us and to form our escort. Guns began to crack
anew; we descended the mountain ; every moment we were
greeted by Mtésa's pages, who, rushing hither with guns longer
than themselves, brought us his greetings, and then immediately
returned. - Painfully we waded through a muddy flat, then we
made a short march up-hill, and fired a volley to announce our
arrival. Egypt's banner waved over my hut in brilliant sun-
shine-we had reached our goal.

P.S-During my second audience with Mtésa I was quite
unexpectedly addressed from behind in English, and as, wonder-
ingly, I turned round, I saw standing near me a white man,
the Rev. Mr. Wilson, who belonged to the expedition which
the Church Missionary Society had sent to Africa. He had
been six months in Uganda, whilst some of his companions
still remained in Unyanyembe and Usukuma. On Decem-
ber 31 (1877) we received the sorrowful intelligence that two
of his companions, Lieutenant Smith and Mr. O'Neil, during
their voyage here from Usukuma, had been attacked by the
king of the island of Ukerewe and murdered, together with
about fifteen mechanics from Zanzibar, as well as several Arab
merchants. Mr. Wilson left at once for Usukuma.

Aneroid readings made at six o'clock in the morning; the
temperature of the air varying from 16° to 18°C. (61° to
46° Fahr.) at the same time :-

{ Inches. Inches. , Inches.
Mrali -. « 26.12 | Briggara . - . 26.00 | Kirémbwe - . 25.87
étati -. i 25:02 1'Kahura " , ' "26.20 | Kyikasa |. Bs 77
EKyivambiri . 26.10 | Kapéki |. a 25.04 1 Kitakuba. '} 25:59
Kinamuczi » 25.04 | Guru a - 25.94 | Kasidié .. a 29.63]
Kiramba . ., 26.06 I Kabaru . -. 25.98 | Rubaga . H

so MROLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UNYORO.

4. Bmiry or A rrom MrROL to CAPITAL or
UxYyORO, AND REMARKS CONCERNING Axp Its:
ProPpPLE. f

CAUSE OF THE JOURNEY-HOW THE WANYORO MARCH-THEIR COLOUR- ;
LUXURIANT VEGETATION-HUTS-TRAVELLING IN THE RAINY SEASON;

-ARRIVAL AT KABREGA'S-AUDIENCE WITH THE KING-HIS CHARAC-
R q
TER-FAT WOMEN-A TRIP TOWARDS THE SOUTH-CHARACTER OF THE

1
YEGETATION OF NORTHERN UNYORO-TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION-

A WAGANDA CARAVAN-RETURN.

IT was in May of the year 1877 that His Excellency Gordon
Pasha, prompted by the wish to be on good terms with the.
Negro princes in the south, entrusted me with the honourable.
commission to visit, if possible, the king of Unyéro, Kabréga,
who, since Baker's retreat from Masindi, had always been our.
enemy, and to try and bring about a peaceable solution cg
existing difficulties. _ Favoured by fortune, I succeeded in my.
mission, and the following pages are the result of my stay with
Kabréga. Few travellers have as yet seen Unyoro, which
circumstance may lend to these notes a special value. It als
struck me, while perusing Baker's books, that they contained
very little information with regard to land and people, habi
and customs. .I therefore set myself the task of collecting:
all that I could learn upon these subjects, in which endeaVOU%
my knowledge of the language was an essential help. fl

We left Mruli on December 13, 1877. - The road, as fam
as Kisuga, was already well known to us, and led through &
slightly hilly country, gently sloping away from the riven
towards Khor Kifu, into which it drains, and abounding in t ‘
thorny Acacia fistula. The ascent towards the west is very
gradual indeed, and it is only made apparent by the denud'f:
tion of all the higher parts, which has laid bare the red clayep
subsoil, whilst the hollows are filled up with the grey fine,
grained loamy detritus which is so characteristic of this co
try, - Aloes abound. A circular basin, cut, as it were, in t
red ground and filled with clear water, provided a welco \
resting-place for my porters, who, after a short repose, con:
tinued the journey, and, two hours later, stopped for thes

   

 
  
   
 
 
  

   
  
   
 
   
   

A RAINY DAY. 51

midday rest under a group of trees, and near little pools of
water. A bush with shining dark green camellia-like leaves
and white blossoms, resembling a passion-flower, the stamens
of which were of a yellowish white colour, and the pistils red
and yellow, was quite new to me. The red berries are eaten
by children. __

My companion, Kapémpe, a Matongali of Kabréga's, enter-
tained me by mimicking in a most amusing way the gestures
of the porters who found their burdens too heavy. These people
express astonishment in a way quite new to me-a rapid rais-
ing of the closed fists to the crown of the head, from which
they are drawn energetically to the forehead. The rumbling of
thunder in the distance and dark clouds overhead walned us
to start, but we were hardly on our way, when the rain poured
down in torrents. - Every moment a porter would stop to cover
himself with a banana-leaf, or to take off the ox-hide which
serves him for a dress, in order to protect it from the rain,
'which renders it hard. In this way the whole column was
brought to a standstill-a very pleasant episode in such rain
tas this, which poured in at one's collar and out at one's boots!
Then, in great haste, we again started forward, through
(bananas and whorled eriodendrons, till, after a march of 74
hours, we reached Kisuga, where we were obliged to rest the
imext day to dry our baggage.

When at last we were ready to start, one of the soldiers
«who accompanied me was taken ill, I expect, from fear of the
«dangers he apprehended on the journey. I had therefore but
rone soldier left to take charge of my horse, and my two
«servants,
imposing escort! - Being put on my guard by Baker's account
Of Kabréga's talent for begging, I left everything that was
mot absolutely indispensable, even my gun, in Kisuga; and
when we started in the direction of Lond, along the road
awe had previously trodden, through tall grass and numerous
manana groves, in which reddish-yellow passion-flowers threw
oheir tendrils across our path. The porters marched in
lsotal silence, a contrast to the noisy Waginda; no drum
was carried with us. Our halts became frequent, and the
worters seemed to be very hungry, as on every possible

                                    

52 MBRUCLLI TO: THE CABITAL OF UNYORO.

opportunity they picked up some bananas or a sweet potato.
Towards midday we reached our former station, Lond, the
defenceless stockade of which, with many a spot charred black
by fire, produced a very painful impression. - The zerfibe had
not been occupied by the Negroes, as a sort of superstitious
fear prevents them from dwelling in houses previously occupied
by us. Small herds of bullocks and goats and a few solitary
inhabitants were visible in the vicinity.

After having settled ourselves for the night as best we
could, we sent to the chief of the district, who lived near,
to request porters for the morrow, as Kabréga had promised
them. I should have preferred my own porters from Mriali,
as I could then have been more independent in my move-
ments; but Rionga's people absolutely refused to follow me
into the land of their deadly enemy, and thus I had to rely
upon Kabréga's people. Biibo, the Matongali who had charge
of this place, a corpulent young man with slightly prognathous
features, paid me a visit in company with five or six of his
men. They were reddish-brown in colour, except one who
was deep black-a man from the district of Shifalu, which
lies near the rapids of Tada. The colour of the people
throughout this country is very various, and graduates from
black to yellow; yet, for the most part, the fundamental
colour is red. The people are clothed in soft ox-hides,
from which the hair has been removed, except at the borders,.
where a strip of hair of two fingers'-breadth has been left as.
an ornament; their costume is completed by arm-rings and.
anklets made of brass and necklets composed of roots. The
head is not shaved-shaving is a sign of mourning-indeed.
you often see very elegant cork-screw-like curls. A small pre-_
sent of beads procured me in return several baskets full of 7;
sweet potatoes, and as I had brought a bullock with me from.
Kisuga and presented it to my porters, song and revelry lasted 3
far into the night.

During the night rain began to fall gently, and early on
the 16th it poured down in torrents; but in spite of that, the,
promised porters arrived, and I prepared for the journey.
Considering, however, that the baggage would get an unavoid-
able soaking, and that the troublesome and useless tent we had

a

 

 
 
   

VEGETATION IN UNYORO. 53

2

dragged with us required, when wet, five men to carry it,
I determined to wait; and I did well, for at two o'clock
it still rained as persistently as ever, so our further march
was put off until the following morning. My porters, who
last night devoured an ox, were now lying hungrily around
a smoking fire; and I too had only what was absolutely
necessary.

Next morning a very cloudy sky did not promise well for
our further journey; nevertheless we broke up camp in good
time (6.15 A.M.) in order to reach our distant quarters at
the appointed hour. A very hilly country spread itself out
before us; both sides of the way were flanked with solitary
hills, and our progress was rendered irksome by antediluvian
grass and bushes often ten feet high. Enmtada sudamnica, with
its ripe fruit, was frequently to be seen along the road. In
swampy places there were groups and bushes of Phoeniz spinosa.
Magnificent growths of papyrus fringed the watercourses.
This day, too, we did not escape the rain; and as only grass
and forest lay before us, and neither huts nor plantations were
to be seen, we were compelled to press vigorously forwards,
until, about two o'clock in the afternoon, we reached a small
group of miserable huts, where we were obliged to remain for
the night. The inhabitants had fled at our approach, but
we found fires still burning in the huts. Matongali Vukimba,
the chief of the village, did not keep us long waiting, for we
had hardly placed our things under cover when he, accom-
panied by two subchiefs and several of his people, put in an
appearance, to pay his respects to me and to present me with
a goat and two sheep-quite a luxury. The people impressed
me favourably ; they were modest and unpretentious, and
satisfied with anything that was given them. If they were
allowed to choose between glass beads and cloth, they preferred
the latter. - This place was called Kim@nya.

The Wanyoro appear to be very much afraid of dew and
rain; at any rate they will never get up early in the morning;
and if, when on the march, they come upon grass wet with
dew, they lay down their loads and quickly tie before them
either a large banana-leaf or a bunch of dry leaves in order to
protect themselves. A woman who was travelling with us was

54 MRUOLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UNYORO.

so completely covered with dead leaves that she looked exactly
like a wandering withered bush.

On the 18th inst. we started very early, but after ten
minutes' march we came to a halt near an extensive plantation
of bananas and sweet potatoes, in order to change our porters.
Matongali Vukimba had the best intentions ; but much palaver
and some blows were required before he was able to convince
the people that they must go on ; and when, after a quarter of
an hour's halt, we were again on the move, he followed us, with
one of his subchiefs, gesticulating and shouting in such an
energetic manner that I expected every minute a fight would
ensue.. At last, however, the dispute was settled, as usual by
a friendly " Kuriungi" (good), and soon after Vukimba turned
back to his village.

We then proceeded upon our way, stopping, however, at
every group of huts to try and press porters into our service.
The road led at first through fine fields and banana groves,
then up and down through high wild grass. On either hand,
at a distance of two or three miles, there rose mountain groups
forming distinct ranges. Magnificent " gallery " woods skirted
two muddy rain-gutters, which we crossed.

The silvery-haired Colobus Guereze was seen among the tops _
of gigantic trees which were enveloped in climbing plants. The -
Cercopithecus grisco-viridis swung among the creepers, and _
phoenix bushes, with Calladias, Amomum, and Rubiacese, formed _
,. the underwood. In the hollows where the rain collects there _
was very little water; it reaches nearly to our waists; but the -
mud and imbedded roots made our progress difficult. - The _
horse I had with me was perfectly useless; I managed far -
better on foot.

A short march brought us to another stream with magnificent $
" gallery " woods. - The red tulip-like flowers of the Spathodia
shone against the thick dark foliage like flames of fire. We
now left the high grass and marched upon a road which had
been formed by pulling up the grass and cutting down the |
trees. - Unfortunately, however, marching was rendered very /
difficult by the existence of deep holes where roots had been
pulled up. - For some distance a hor flowed by us at our right
hand, its course being marked by dense foliage of overhanging

 

NEAR KABREGAS RESIDENCE. $3

shrubs. We then once more arrived at clearings, where
bananas, sweet potatoes, and lubias intermingled, and here and
there the green stalks of maize were seen, or the broad leaves of
Virginian tobacco. Compounds containing three or four huts
lay scattered throughout the cultivated land. They were hemi-
spherical, and their grass roofs stretched down to the ground all
round, except where a porch was formed over the door. Theo
frames were made of light reed wickerwork and supported by
numerous poles. Inside, the huts were not exactly inviting ;
they were divided into two compartments, the floors of which
were covered with hay, and infested by innumerable mice, cock-
roaches, crickets, and fleas. Household utensils were not
numerous, for the inhabitants had fled before us, taking all
their treasures with them.

We halted at Kitongali, in one of these clearings, where
I was fortunate enough to obtain three huts for myself, my
people, and my belongings. Here I had the pleasure of a visit
from the village chief, a good-looking young man, whose father
is Kabréga's confidant. He made quite an imposing figure,
being clad in thin white skins, over which a reddish-brown
mbugu hung like a toga ; his servant bore after him a
double-barrelled sporting-gun. The usual presents having
been exchanged, he sent a messenger to Kabréga to apprise
him of my approach, for the next day we expected to reach
our destination. If, however, I understand African ceremonials
rightly, many a day will still pass before I reach Kabréga's,
although we are quite near to his residence. It is always
uncomfortable to travel during the rainy season, because you
are never master of the situation, which, indeed, leaving the
rain out of question, is rarely the case. From midnight the
thunder rolled on all sides, thick fog enveloped the country,
and it rained as if it were absolutely necessary for the clouds to
rid themselves of their whole contents that day. - Of course, it
was no good thinking of further progress in such weather ; and
to make matters worse, my hut was not water-tight. I had
seen none of my people that day, for, on account of the
rain, and possibly also of hunger-for meat does not satisfy
them, and corn could not be obtained-they were having a
long sleep.

56 MRBRUOLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UTNYORO.

Notwithstanding my orders that if the sun came out I in-
tended to march forward, no preparations were made for a
start. My people informed me flatly that the grass was too
wet and the sun too hot, and that therefore I must wait until
the next morning. A beautifully coloured woodpecker ham-
mered upon a tree-trunk, which process he accompanied by an
angry twittering, as if he were indignant at his tiresome work.
Trachyphonus margaritatus called to his little mate, and Psit-
tacus erythacus flew about in pairs, or at most in threes. In
the evening we heard the almost deafening chirping of a huge
brown grasshopper. The creature is three inches long ; it had
been attracted by the light, and hopped about the hut. I
discovered upon some tall fig-trees, which had suffered much
from the ravages of an elephant-beetle, a parasitic lichen,
apparently very much like Schweinfurth's Platycerium elephan-
totis. Its squarish leaves, measuring about fourteen inches, were
dark green, fleshy, and profusely veined ; the surface had a few
woolly hairs; the under side was covered thickly with brownish
wool. - Each leaf had one side cut straight, the other sides
being convex. The leaves hung like gigantic ear-lobes upon
the trunk of the tree which nourished the plant.

All the trees were literally covered with the nests of astrilda,
in which I found both eggs and young. A lower nest con-
tained the mother (at night) and her eggs. Above this there
was a small nest for the father. I met Wlth representatives of
Sporothlastes fasciatus, Spermestes cucullatus, Ortygospiza atri-
collis, and several Habropyga. I did not see such large
Lagonosticta as those in Uginda, and only a few scattered
. specimens of Ureginthus phenicotis.

The chimpanzee is not uncommon in the southern districts
of Unyoro. It inhabits the woods as far north as Kiroto and
Masindi, whereas in Uganda it remains much farther to the
south, and, so far as I know, it is not seen farther north than
Uddu. It is called it Uny oro kinyabéntu (manlike), and in
Uganda maziki. - This, in connexion with Schweinfurth's
reports from the Nyam—Nyam districts, shows that its northern
boundary is dependent upon the nature of the vegetation.

People here say that it has nests in the trees, and (ns def

chooses the highest trees to build in, it is very difficult to

APES AND PARROTS, .

catch. It appears that this ape is found much more frequently
in the Monbuttu and Nyam-Nyam districts than here, pro-
bably because the thicker woods in those countries afford it
greater safety. In 1877-78 four living specimens were sent
from there to Khartum, where they died, and were not made
use of in a scientific or any other way.

The distribution of the parrot (Psittacus erythacus) coincides
with that of the anthropoid ape. The bird is to be seen
all over Unyoro flying about in twos and threes. It is a
high, heavy flier, screams continuously during its flight, and
is one of the earliest birds. Even before sunrise it is heard
screeching; towards midday, however, it vanishes, in order to
take its midday rest, and is seen again from four o'clock until
the evening. The numerous syeamores provide it with neces-
sary food. Possibly, also, it feeds on bananas ; at least some
of the specimens I obtained ate this food readily, and preferred
it to sugar-cane. The bird is very common in Uginda, and is
sometimes kept in the huts, where, without any instruction, it
soon learns to speak. In Usoga, where the bird is exceedingly
numerous, it is caught in small nets, and the red feathers from
its tail are plucked out and used as ornaments. - Care is, how-
ever, taken that the person performing this operation is un-
known to the bird. The feathers are reproduced very slowly.
The northern boundary of the distribution of this bird, as well
as that of the ape, appears to extend to the second degree of
N. lat. Colobus Guerez@a, which is very common here, exists
farther to the north, and I have obtained its skins from the
district of Fatiko (3° 1' N. lat.) ; in Liiri, too, the ape is very
common. Cercopithecus: griseo-viridis and C. ruber, as also a
third grey species, together with Paleornis cubicularis, are to
be found everywhere, but they become scarcer as we approach
the equator. Baboons of several species are common in the
mountains. I have been told two or three times that black
parrots are to be found ; but as the existence here of the Psitfacus
Timneh has not been proved, it is probably a dark specimen of
P. erythacus that has been seen. - Still, it is perfectly true that
many new discoveries remain to be made here.

At midnight the horns were blown-the drum serves only as
a war signal-to assemble the porters ; yet at six in the morning

58 MEROLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UXYORO.

not ten persons had turned up; and when, after half an hour's
bargaining and palaver, a few more Negroes appeared, no one
seemed to know the road, although Kabréga's capital could
not have been more than five or six hours distant. I was
therefore compelled to send two men to Kabréga to beg him
to send me a guide, knowing all the while that this ignorance
was a mere pretence. Fortunately I had been able to pro-
cure a sheep and a few fowls, as well as some sesame
(Sesamum orientale) for my people in exchange for a few
beads, so that they at least did not starve. There were several
heavy storms of rain again that day.

At last, on the 2 Ist, we started. - The horns had been blow-
ing for hours, and my people had urged me to march, As,

however, I had heard the beating of a big drum for about half an -
hour, I concluded that Kabréga was sending one of his chiefs _

to meet me ; and so it turned out, for soon after, Makango (big
chief) Bkimba appeared, accompanied by a drummer, a gun-
boy, and some five or six other people, to greet me and to
escort meat once to Kabréga. - Everything was now arranged
like magic, and off we marched, our luggage in advance. - We
climbed up through well-cultivated land, in which were many
huts; then, turning round by a large banana grove, we descended
to a big papyrus swamp, the crossing of which, although it was
only about two hundred yards broad, occupied a whole half-
hour, because the water between each single thicket reached
up to our necks and the roots caught our feet like nooses.
Only one who has experienced such a passage can form an idea
of its unpleasantness, especially when stinging and prickly
vossia-grass abounds.

When we at length found ourselves safely on the opposite _

bank, the porters, who were most wonderfully willing, went -

on- before, and we passed through dense masses of grass with _

many mimosas, which occasionally gave place to meadow-
land, until we entered a sort of defile between two ranges
of mountains, and marched on, up and down hill. One of

these hills was decorated by a solitary beautiful dracsena. In a -

banana grove, where fig-trees and phcenix palms were grow-

ing, we saw the fresh spoors of two large hyenas. The last:

part of the road led along the mountain-side to the left, Khor

ARRIVAL AT KABREGA'$S. so

Kyai keeping to our right, till at length we left the moun-
tainous defile, entering again into high grass and reeds, and
pausing at last to rest by a small brook with clear bubbling
water, which flowed over mica slabs and tasted strongly of
iron. Grey cows, possessing neither horns nor humps, stood
in the water (they destroy the horns of the cattle here as
soon as they commence to grow, by cauterising them with a
red-hot iron, in order to enable them to pass with greater
ease through the tall grass and the jungle). All the houses lay
at a distance from the road. Probably in order to impress the
stranger with the immense size of the land, and therefore with
the greatness of its ruler, he is led round about for days through
the high grass, when the direct route would hardly occupy three
marching hours. The country is said to be well peopled.

Soon after crossing the small we found ourselves again
between rows of mountains, several summits of which may
attain an altitude of from 1500 to 2000 feet above the general
elevation of the country, which is probably as much as 4000 feet.
Then followed cultivated fields, with many miniature votive
huts, erected with the idea of obtaining a good harvest. Giant
reeds came next, and at last the mountains opened out, and
before us lay Mpidra-Nyaméga, Kabréga's headquarters, Unyoro's
capital. The huts which had been prepared for me lay to the
left of the road, upon a hill, above which high mountains
towered. The spot is about ten minutes distant from the great
compound of huts which comprises the king's residence, and
which, with another compound lying near it, forms the village.
Our goods were hardly under shelter when the rain began to
pour and the thunder to roll. Late in the evening Katigrua,
Kabréga's prime minister, once a companion of Baker's, came
to visit me and to bring me his master's greetings. Kabréga
had intended to receive me immediately, but was prevented
doing so on account of the rain. For the same reason it had
been impossible for him to gather together for me any kind of
present, and therefore he begged me to excuse it. I simply
remarked that I was very much obliged to his sovereign, but
that I was not come in order to receive presents. - Makingo
Bkimba, whom I had sent with my greetings to the king,
brought me the promise of an audience to-morrow.

60 MROLLI TO THE CAPITAL OFP UNYORO.

The sun had hardly risen when Katigrua arrived, bringing
with him the present he had yesterday led me to expect. Two
fat white oxen with long horns, a package of fine white salt (from
the Albert Lake), three packages of Telabin corn (Eleusine
coracanmna), and two packages of meal of the same kind of corn
were laid before me, together with several jars of very good
banana wine, accompanied by Kabréga's best greetings. After
Kataigrua had gone, I had hardly time, before my audience with
Kabréga, to prepare the presents which I had brought for
him, and which far surpassed anything that he could previously
have received. Exactly at midday my guide, Kapémpe, ap-
peared, this time dressed in a kuf/an and tarbush (presents
from me), and our procession started. It was headed by three
Matongalis; then followed my guide, Kapémpe, with all his
people ; then two porters carrying the presents for Kabréga;
and I, in uniform, on horseback, attended by my soldier, brought
up the rear.

The road led for ten minutes towards the north-west, down-
hill across Khor Kydi, which was full of papyrus and amomum,
and over which a bridge had been thrown in my honour. Then
again uphill, past two small compounds, in the shadow of which
stood crowds of staring people. We crossed an open square,
leaving to our right the king's cattle zertiba, in which were
numerous houses for the Wahuma herdsmen. A circular togul
rose before us, with lofty entrances in front and at the back,
the space before which was roofed in. The floor of the togul
was clean and strewn with green papyrus-leaves ; in the middle
of it sat Kabréga upon a high stool, surrounded by his office-
bearers, crouching upon the floor; behind the king stood about
ten men and boys, armed with guns. At his feet crouched
Manysra, the interpreter, a man with a bird-like face. My
stool was placed close to that occupied by the king, and we
surveyed each other intently for several moments.

This, then, was Kabréga, the cowardly, treacherous, beggarly
drunkard described by Baker. The graceful folds of a piece
of fine salmon-coloured bark cloth covered his body up to the
breast, above which it was perfectly bare, except the left shoulder,
over which was thrown, like a plaid, a piece of darker-coloured
bark cloth. Two burnt sears were visible on the temples of his

 

e 4.

AN AUDIENCE OF KABREGA. 61

well-formed, smoothly shorn head, these constituting the tribal
mark of the Wanydoro ; his four lower incisor teeth were want-
ing, as is the case in all Wanyoro, and the upper incisors
projected slightly, and were brilliantly white. (The lower in-
cisors, sometimes also the canines, are always removed from
girls and boys as soon as they arrive at puberty. They are
forced out with a broad piece of iron used as a lever.) A neck-
lace of hairs from a giraffe's tail, upon the middle of which was
strung a single blue glass bead, encircled his neck. A root
amulet and an iron bracelet were the only ornaments on his
strong muscular arm; his hands were small and well kept.
He is strikingly fair, probably in consequence of his pure
Wahiuma blood. He made, upon the whole, a very favourable
impression upon me, but there was a decided voluptuous ex-
pression on his face. His attendants, about fifty in number,
were clothed in skins and bark cloths, and amongst them was
his brother, an ugly black fellow.

After presenting him with my credentials, to which I added
a few words, a very lively conversation sprang up between us.
Kabréga speaks the Sudan Arabic fluently. He requested me,
however, although I speak Kinyoro, to talk with him in Arabic,
and to permit my words to be translated by his interpreter, " so
that his people could understand them." I next gave him the
presents I had brought with me, and much enjoyed his pleasure
in receiving them. He paid especial attention to a few pieces
of scented soap. My soldier had a small revolver in his girdle ;
Kabréga requested permission to view it, and comprehended at
once its mechanism. He took it to pieces, put it together
again, and then gave it back to me. He then asked me to
inform him how I had enjoyed myself last year in Uginda,
and what I had seen there, and he was highly amused with
my description of the court ceremonials which obtain in that
country. Threatening rain brought our conference to an end
before either of us wished its conclusion. He promised, how-
ever, that he would soon call me again into his presence, and
then took leave of me in a thoroughly dignified manner.

I have often visited Kabréga subsequently, and cannot say
that I ever heard him speak an improper word or make an
indecent gesture, or that he was ever rude, excepting, perhaps,

62 MROLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UNYORO. i

that he sometimes spat on the ground before him, one of his _

chiefs immediately wiping up the saliva with his hand from
the grass mat. Might not a like official find employment at
European courts? - Kabréga is cheerful, laughs readily and

much, talks a great deal, and does not appear to care to be |

bound by ceremony-the exact opposite to Mtésa, the conceited
ruler of Uganda.

The next day I was again called to the king, whom I found

surrounded by ten or twelve persons. Any one who has seen
the strict etiquette in Uganda could not help being greatly

surprised at the nonchalance and informality of the Wanyoro, -

who lie about the floor chewing coffee in the king's presence
in a perfectly unceremonious manner. We had a very long
interview, concerning which I would specially note the willing-
ness with which His Majesty acceded to my requests, and also
his account of what took place here during Baker's residence.

Kabréga very readily consented to my proposition that some _

of his people should go with me, or rather be sent, to Khar-

tum, to pay a visit to the Governor-General, Gordon Pasha. _
My watch caused much astonishment, and I was requested _

to send him a loud-ticking watch after my return home. I
certainly cannot charge Kabréga with begging ; on the contrary,
he sent me daily, in the most hospitable manner, stores of corn,
meal, mwénge, &c., which, although they were only intended to

supply the wants of one day, could easily have been made to _

last us for a fortnight.

During my repeated visits Kabréga gave me the impression
of being a thoroughly hospitable and intelligent man. Quite
apart from the rich gifts of food, mwénge, bark cloths, &c.-a

return for which it was impossible for me to make-he proved _

this in a very noteworthy manner in connexion with an in-
cident which might have brought me into a very awkward
position. - Notwithstanding my strict orders that no hostile
action should be taken against Kabréga by the Egyptians
during my visit to Unyoro, the soldiers in our nearest station,
led by stupid, jealous officers, made a raid upon the country,

and killed several of Kabréga's people. Katigrua was sent

by the king to give me this information, and to assure me
at the same time that, although this occurrence was highly

 

 

 

A HAILSTORM, 63

displeasing to him, it should in no way affect our personal
relations !

In a long and very interesting visit which I paid to Kabréga
on the 5th of October, I received a detailed account of all the
events that happened during Baker's visit, a curiously different
account from that given in "Ismailia." The conversation
turned upon a hundred various topics. As the sky was again
overclouded, I withdrew atter four hours' chat, and had hardly
time to reach home before the storm broke over us. Although
I suffered considerably during my fourteen days residence here
on account of the torrents of rain which fell three or four times
daily-which state of things, according to the report of the in-
habitants, will last till November-I have never in all my life
experienced such an uproar as this storm. A deep darkness
enveloped the land, now and then streaked by blue lightning,
and, whipped by the raging south-east wind, hail and rain came
beating down, the hailstones being as large as horse-beans.
After continuing for half an hour, the hail gave place to a true
deluge of rain, and until late in the night it still continued
raining steadily. During the hailstorm (5.45 P.M.) the ther-
mometer registered 64.4" Fahr.; the aneroid 25.65; in. At
seven o'clock in the evening the thermometer stood at 66.2°
Fahr. ; the aneroid at 25.70 in. All our huts were full of water,
and the next two days were occupied in repairing them.

I received visits daily from Kabréga's chiefs, amongst whom
Katigrua and Melindua were two really pleasant, sensible men.
As regards the former, I have pleasure in being able to con-
firm what Baker said of him, namely, that he was the only
gentleman at Kabréga's court; not once did he request a
single thing from me, and he received with signs of the greatest
gratitude the little presents I was able to make him. I am
indebted to both these men for much valuable information
concerning the life and customs of Unyoro.

On the 30th of September I was just preparing to utilise a
pause in the rain by taking a walk, when I was called to Ka-
bréga, whom I found sitting on his divan enveloped in a bark-
cloth of beautiful pattern. - People from Karigwa had arrived,
bringing with them arms and ammunition, to be exchanged for
ivory and slaves, and Kabréga wished to show his white guest

64 MROLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UNYORO.

to them. I had taken with me Speke's book, in order to astonish *

the king; and as I showed him his father, Kamrasi, in it, as
well as other pictures, especially the one of the famous dwarf
Kimenya, who died several years ago, the pleasure of those
present knew no bounds. Two small men, but certainly not
dwarfs, were immediately led before me, one of whom, a
regular hump-back, formed a subject for the company's hilarity.
Hump-backed people, it appears, are not uncommon here; they
are called oibango. The conversation turned to the subject
of white and coloured people; and in order to prove that
light-coloured persons also exist here, a lanky young man
was introduced to me, who was distinguished by the yellow
ground-colour of his skin. He was offered to me as a present,
but was declined with thanks. - The production of white chil-
dren (albinos) by black parents is certainly not uncommon,
but there is no question of their having anything to do with
the marriage between blood relations, notwithstanding Linant
de Bellefond's assertion that Mtésa believed this to be the
cause. - Tho latter probably heard such an opinion from Euro-
peans. In this country brothers marry their sisters without
producing albinos. Albinos are supposed to bring with them
misfortune, and are therefore not considered to be of equal
birth with their brothers and sisters. I had an opportunity
subsequently in Uganda of examining carefully an albino girl.
I shall therefore refer to this subject again. The presence of
white people in Ugidnda is denied there, but still Albinos are
found there; and I could only hear of one white man who had
tried to go to Ruhinda, but had not succeeded-probably
Stanley.

As on the Sth of October Kabréga again sent me supplies.
I called to thank him, and was taken to his private house,
where I, for the first time, found him clothed in Arab dress,
and I chatted with him in Arabic. The fat women whom I
saw on this occasion came up in all points to the description
of Speke and Grant, those reliable and conscientious travellers,
who saw similar fat women in Karigwa. Such a custom as
this of fattening up the king's wives says more than all else
for the original unity of these countries, or at least goes
to prove the same origin of the rulers; the ruler of Uganda

A NATURALIST'S RAMEBLE. 65

is, notwithstanding his " pedigree," only an usurper and
parvenu.

One day I took a walk along a path towards the south,
which led me along the foot of mountains of considerable
height lying to the left, whilst those on the right were about
two miles away. At the bottom of the valley Khor Kyidi flows
at first towards the south and then to the west. High grass
interwoven with creepers abounds. A large ocymum mingles
its odours with that of several Crucifers (?). Here, as in so
many places, there are open woods of fig-trees and mimosas,
as well as Combretese, and conspicuous among them is a lofty
tree with beautiful yellow sweet-smelling flowers and a foliage
resembling that of a mongolia. - Taking it all in all, the vege-
tation in North Unyoro is rather monotonous, with the excep-
tion of those places where runnels of water produce, as if by
magic, small floral Edens. This, notwithstanding the opposite
opinion of Baker, is probably due to the fact that the soil in
Unyoro, at least in its northern part, is not so rich as that in
Uganda. On the other hand, it must be remembered that the
custom of annually burning the grass does not give the vege-
tation a fair chance of developing. What trunks exist are
distorted and knotty. Only on the mountain slopes, to which
the fire seldom reaches, and along the khors do we find splendid
pillar-like trunks. - I have already, in former letters, called atten-
tion to the beauty of such oases of vegetation.

After I had wandered for an hour, I found that the moun-
tains to the right suddenly turned towards the west and opened
up an extensive view across a rolling prairie, beyond which, in
the far south, the rounded outlines of isolated mountains rose
into view. - Behind me and on either hand, the view was shut
out by high mountains. I could only see the dark green line
of the khor winding its way between the greyish-red grass. In
every fold of the ground the presence of inhabitants is indicated
by columns of smoke. Threatening rain-clouds warned me to
return home quickly, but they were soon driven away by a
fresh east wind. The rainstorms here always occur with
south or south-east winds. There was abundance of rain
during the whole of my stay in Unyoro. I never experienced
a day without rain, and it often rained three or four times in

E

66 MROLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UXYORO.

the course of twenty-four hours. 'The curious phenomenon of
partial rains occurs sometimes; for instance, it poured in

torrents at Kabréga's house, while my dwelling entirely escaped,.
although situated at hardly ten minutes' distance. 'The highest.
temperature recorded by me (79.7° Fahr.) occurred on thel
20th of October.

On one occasion I observed a very beautiful after-glow..
The clear flashing beams of light, varying in intensity at
intervals, and having their bases situated on the western.
horizon, stretched like an arch towards the zenith, flashing up
only to die away continually. - After perfect darkness had set
in, this sheen continued, until at length, about three- quarters;
of an hour after sunset, it finally faded away. The sky wasj
lightly clouded in the west, but, notwithstanding this, the.
beams of light were quite resplendent. - This after-glow is said.
to occur here very frequently. f

As soon as the new moon becomes visible she is greeted by
the firing of guns. - Horns and flutes form a lively, if not very.
harmonious, concert, the musicians marching up and down,.
either upon their heels or only upon their toes, bending at the.
same time their bodies backwards and forwards. - Kabréga hlm-w
self is at this time occupied in preparing his magic powders
his amulets and talismans, and no doubt also dabbles a little in_
the art of divination, as is the custom with all Wahuma ch1efs
during the first few days of the new moon.

Early on the oth of October, in celebration of the feast of 4
Ramadan-Bairam (Id ezzuraiyar), Kabréga sent me a plesenti
of an ox. As, for a wonder, the weather permitted me to get i
about, I climbed the towering mountain which was near out i
camp. A footpath, well worn by the herds, leads up to the,
highest peak, the base of which is hidden by grass and reedg,
and many mimosas. The soil here consists of reddish grey
vegetable mould, under which there is a layer of brown humus
two feet thick, havmg underneath it sharp-edged quartz frag-j
ments. 'The ascent from here is very difficult, in many place
hardly possible except by crawling. So steep indeed, is tho;
side of the mountain that only here and there a tree with willow->
like leaves is able to take root. Short turf covers the thim,
layer of earth, which is bedded upon granite, except in some

  

  
  

A MOUNTAIN CLIMB. 67

places where one finds quartz in small pieces. The higher
one climbs, the scantier becomes the vegetation, until upon the
summit itself, which I reached after three-quarters of an hour's
climb, there are only four or five stunted trees amidst blocks of
rock and the grey mushroom-like structures of termites. The
readings of the aneroid and thermometer (October 9, 1877)
were as follows :-8h. oom. A.M., camp, 25.79 in., 68.9° Fahr. ;
8h. 49m. a.m.,.summit, 25.26 in., 104° Fahr. ('The thermo-
meter was not properly shaded from the sun.) This gives the
height of the mountain, roughly calculated and without any
corrections, as 4500 feet, which agrees fairly with the alti-
tudes previously observed in Unyoro by Speke and Baker.

The country spread out before me was a highland sloping to
the south, and more gently to the west, upon which rise isolated
dome-shaped hills and even short ridges. It looks as if a
continuous plateau had existed there in a past age, from which
enormous floods had washed away the softer rocks, thus giving
rise to the existing hills. The parallel arrangement of these
hills on either side of the road, aids one's fancy in tracing the
ancient beds along which the denuding waters took their
course, and of which the existing AAors are but feeble phan-
toms. One single table mountain is visible from here, but
unfortunately I was not able to ascend it. Moreover, the
mountains to the west of the lake, which are not visible owing
to intervening heights, are far higher than the one I climbed,
and Jebel Mezeja Mkuru (" the Great Lord ") is also much
higher. There is said to be a plateau upon it to which the
inhabitants retire when they are attacked. I was also told of
an unfathomable circular lake and of remarkable caverns far
away to the south-east. I may add that, with respect to its
geological structure, I have never seen so monotonous a
country as Unyoro.

Two Zanzibar merchants arrived here from Karigwa with-
out touching Uganda; both were freed slaves who wished to
buy ivory by order of their masters; it is abundant and
pretty cheap. They offered in exchange cloth, guns, powder,
percussion-caps, copper, brass, &e. Near midday, on the 1oth
of October, a company of Waginda also arrived in order to
trade. Their chief, Mbizi, an old acquaintance of mine, sought

68 MRI-JLI TO THE CAPITAL OF UNYORO.

me out at once, and informed me that Mtésa had sent people
to Mrili to fetch me from that place. Letters which I re-
ceived on the following day from Mruli confirmed the arrival
of one hundred and fifty Waginda, but as I was not there
they returned to Uginda. At the same time I received
English and Arabic letters from Mtésa inviting me to come,
but "to bring no soldiers with me." I was told, too, that
some of my things, which I intended to present to Kabréga,
had been forwarded, but they had been taken from the porters
at Khor Kydi by Kabréga's people. I, of course, claimed them
back at once, upon which Kabréga sent me word that I need
not trouble about them, for he himself was the aggrieved
party, and would immediately take steps for their recovery.
Two days after, the messengers whom Kabréga had sent to
find them, returned and laid the unopened bundle at my feet.
According to their account, all the inhabitants of the village
had fled and deposited the goods in the house of a neighbouring
chief, who had delivered them up to them. I sent at once
to Kabréga to thank him, and at the same time to request an
audience, when I intended to ask for permission to depart.
At this audience, which took place on the 15th, my official
business was brought to an end to our mutual satisfaction, and
I cannot refrain from again recording the friendly treatment
extended to me by Kabréga, which was never disturbed by a
single unfriendly word, even up to the last moment, so that I
shall always remember with pleasure the days I spent here. His
embassy to Gordon Pasha, composed of Kasiébe, Baker's former
guide, who had already been in Gondokoro, and the interpreter,
Msige, were either to accompany or to follow me. As a parting
gift, I presented Kabréga with a richly gilded sabre, which.
very much delighted him. I could therefore anticipate being.
able to start upon my return journey in a week, if no unfore-.
seen delays occurred. Kabréga gave me his " dead" watch |
for me to get repaired in Khartum. He also requested me to i
send him an Arab clerk. ©
To judge by the sounds of the Uginda drums, the Waginda,
were really received at court on the 19th of October, afters
waiting nine days. This seemed to be the day for paying
tribute ; at least the quantity of packets and bales lying befores

i
I4

 

A FAREWELL AUDIENCE, io
Kabréga's divan, as well as piles of new bark cloth,; and the
number of people who had collected together, proved that a
great reception was taking place. The king sent some loads
of meal for our journey. Several days later I received, in
addition to this, six oxen; they were the usual hornless kind s
having small humps.

On the 22d of October I was again called to Kabréga.
He was carrying on a lively conversation with a number of
people, amongst whom I noticed the Waginda; but when I
arrived, the whole party was dismissed, and I was, in the first
place, requested to show him my revolver. After he had
examined it, he asked me to send him some like it. A very
animated conversation followed upon the most varied subjects,
and was prolonged until near evening, when pouring rain
commenced, and compelled me to return home. My real
business here was at an end. It was almost impossible to
collect anything, for all specimens, bird-skins, &c., were spoilt
on account of the indescribable humidity. I was therefore
ready to march. I had my farewell audience the next day,
and can state, with satisfaction, that the wish on both sides
to meet again was very cordial. The people who were to go
to Khartum were still away setting their houses in order;
the king informed me that they would overtake me at Mriali.

The porters who had been promised me for the next day,
of course, did not appear, although Msige, who was to accom-
pany me, was early on the spot.

To my great surprise, I received letters from Magingo con-
taining very curious reports concerning the doings of Nur Bey,
the acting Governor of the equatorial provinces-a worthless,
mendacious sneak. In consequence of this I almost decided
to go to Magiuingo, but soon gave up the idea, for, on account
of the constant rain, the distance would have been too great
for my people. Having received two big elephant's tusks as
a parting gift from Kabréga, we began the return march on
the 25th of October, by the same road which had brought us
here. A volley of guns was fired from Kabréga's headquarters
in honour of the parting guest. Owing to the persistent rain,
all the grasses had shot up higher, the reed thickets had
grown more impenetrable, and thorns more troublesome. At

70 MROLL TO THE CAPITAL OF UNYORO.

the same time the water was often knee-deep in the holes and
puddles. After we had passed Khor Kabrogéta, the water of
which is so strongly impregnated with iron that it is said to
distend the intestines, we marched a little farther, and then
suddenly turned to the right into a much-neglected banana
grove, where it was suggested that we should pass the night.
The people scattered immediately ; but when I looked round for
shelter I only found one broken-down, abominably filthy hut ;
so I insisted on a further march, and although an hour passed
before I got the people together, we left this inhospitable
Kikinda, continued our difficult march through water and
bush for more than an hour and a half, and finally occupied
at sunset some huts in the village of Blindi. In one of the
huts here a wooden triangle was hanging, to which were sus-
pended a large number of small gourds filled with pebbles ;
this was a rattle to accompany the dance.

No rain fell during the night, but in the early morning all
the sky was grizzly grey, in spite of which we set out, keeping,
with few deviations, to the road along which we marched on
our journey to Kabréga's. The winding Khor Kydi, although
now roaring and full of water, was twice forded without diffi-
culty ; but the great papyrus swamp which followed gave us
a good deal of trouble on account of its entangled roots. I
secured a fine specimen of Scopus umbrett@e. We had hardly
crossed the swamp, when the rain, till now bearable, beat down
with such violence that we rushed forward at great speed
for about half an hour, when we reached Kitongali, somewhat
below the place where we had previously passed the night.

We sheltered in some huts, dried ourselves by a blazing
fire, and could not think of continuing our journey until
midday. An unpleasant incident happened to me here, for
I discovered that, unluckily, I had lost my note-book during
the rain, and in spite of an energetic search I was not a
to 'find it; but after the rain was over, a woman returned it
to me uninjured. Another occurrence took place shortly before

starting. Msige wanted to take a jar full of lubias from a>
woman, but she, taking the joke ill, struck him over the head

with the jar, and wounded him badly. A fearful disturbance
arose, and at first they wanted to kill the woman ; but finally,

Aag cn

DIFFICULTIES ABOUT PORTERS. 71

after my energetic protestations, were satisfied with carrying
off a young ox, as well as bark cloths and skins, from her
hut. The district here belongs to my acquaintance Melimbua,
who was not likely to approve of this summary kind of justice.
Msige's head was bandaged as well as possible, and then we
resumed our march. After wading through much mud and
water we got back to the old road, and reached Kimidnya late
in the afternoon. The huts we had previously occupied had
been burnt down by the inhabitants, because I, a white man,
had slept in them. Yet I received a friendly welcome from
Vakumba, and was even able to procure a goat. We also ob-
tained, by barter, a beautiful skin of the Tragelaphus seriptus,
which is very common in Unyoro.

Kabréga had sent Matongali Matébere to look after my
porters and my comfort, but he took little trouble about
these matters. It was already nine o'clock on the 27th of
October, and not a single porter was to be seen. I there-
fore sent to him, but received neither answer nor porters. So
I gave the order to start, and left him behind with all my
traps, for which I held him responsible to his master; he
promised to follow me soon. Passing by a magnificent syca-
more, the hanging roots of which had grown into nine stems,
we went on up and down hill, through tall grass, till we
rested a while beside a pool that had been made for watering
Kabréga's cattle.

I noticed quite near to the water a solitary Huphorbia
venefica, a plant which is quite a stranger in this country.
This continual struggle with thorns and grasses had thoroughly
tired us out, so we were very thankful soon after to reach a
few miserable huts, where we could take shelter from the tor-
rents of rain which began to pour down upon us. Only the
most useless of my loads had yet arrived, while my bedding
'and cooking apparatus remained behind, so I was obliged to
go to bed supperless, while the leaky hut, with its mosquitoes,
and water pouring in on all sides, proved no paradise, and I
preferred sleeping on a bullock's hide in the open air. But
in the morning it grew desperately cold, and when the sun
rose we were all ready to start at once, although our things
were only arriving in driblets. This place was called Btobe,

72 MRULI TO THE CAPITAL OF UNYOoRo.

and was inhabited by only one family, consisting of one man,
eight women, two children, and a dog.

A short journey through tall grass brought us to Lond,
which we left a little to one side, to halt half an hour's march
beyond it, in Kijivéka, where some good huts were at once
placed at our disposal, and where we were given some sweet
potatoes, which we relished much after our thirty-six hours'
fast. The Madundi{, who inhabit this district, are of a very
dark colour, and speak a language quite different from that
of the Wanyoro. It strikes one particularly by its humming
tones and jerky syllabification. - These people are said to have
originally come from beyond the Albert Lake, and they still
practise cireumecision. - Their houses differ from the hemispheri-
cal " bee-hives" of Unyoro, in the construction of their reed
walls and high porches. Some of the children are swag-bellied,
a result of irregular nourishment-to-day a great deal, to-
morrow nothing. The women wear the pretty striped aprons
of bark cloth noticed by Baker. All smoke pipes with enor-
mously long reed stems.

A clear sky promised a fine day, and our station of Kistiga
lay quite near, where we could hope to rest. Matébere ap-
peared just before we started, and with him the greater part
of my baggage. Nine loads were still wanting, including the
whole of my store of butter. He now began to make all
kinds of excuses, and depreciated and cursed the people, &c.,
while extolling his own virtues; but as my acquaintance,
Bidbo, the chief of this district, most kindly offered me men, I
was able to continue the march at once. Some delay was
occasioned by the arrival of messengers from Kabréga, who in
his name ordered Msige to return the things he had taken on
the way as compensation for his broken head, and said that
on his return he might make complaint and seek redress.

From eight to ten o'clock A.M. we fought our way through
grass and reeds, rested a little in a banana grove, and at last,
tired and exhausted, arrived at two o'clock at our station,
Kisuga, whence we returned, after a day of rest, across a |
flooded country to Mriali. My missing baggage was returned
to me a few days later, uninjured and in good condition.

I wish here to draw particular attention to the fact that in

THE WANYORO. 73

Unyoro, Uginda, Usoga, and Kardgwa the names of places are
used equally for the small districts surrounding them, so that
two travellers may have apparently visited the same place, and
yet their descriptions of that place may not exactly tally. In
this way may be explained the divergences which have been
found between Speke's most excellent astronomically fixed
positions and those of later observers.

5. A DEscrRIPrION or THE Wanyoro.

PERSONAL HABITS-DRESS-ARTICLES OF FOOD AND LUXURIES-HUNTING
-HUTS-MANUFACTURES-THE WIFE AND THE FAMILY-BIRTH-A
PUBLIC MEETING-MARRIAGE-PROSTITUTION-PROPERTY AND THEFT
-THE GOVERNMENT-THE KING'S PRIVILEGES-HISTORICAL AND
COSMOGRAPHICAL FABLES-THE BELIEF IN MAGIC-ORACLES-THEIR
GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE,

THr Wanyoro, though they do not despise the flesh of a cow
which has died a natural death, are very clean and particular
in their eating and in their persons. 'They will never eat on
the bare ground ; even on a journey they carry with them a
little mat for a tablecloth; but, strange to say, they do not
wash their cooking-pots after using them. Washing is much
in vogue, but notwithstanding the cleanly habits of the
people, there unfortunately exists a quantity of vermin, which
especially infest the bark cloth. The custom therefore prevails
of fumigating the cloth every two or three days with smoke
from pieces of dried papyrus-stalks stripped of their bark;
the thick and peculiarly pungent smoke is said to drive
away parasites, and at the same time imparts to the material
a perfume perceptible at some distance. As for scents, how-
ever, for rubbing on the body, a kind of sweet-smelling very
compact grey clay is used, and a species of touchwood which
smells like musk. The clay is brought from the south, and
is sold at a high price. The body is always clean shaved, the
head only as a sign of mourning.

The Wanyoro cut their finger-nails in the form of a triangle,

74 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

- the vertex of the triangle being in the middle of the nail.
All cuttings of the hair and nails are carefully stored under
the bed, and afterwards strewn about amongst the tall grass.
All the Wanyoro extract the four lower incisor teeth, the
Wikidi (Lingo) one or two incisors, as also do the inhabitants
of Chopé (Shuli), but the Waginda do not extract any.

Brother, sister, brother-in-law, and son-in-law are the re-
cognised grades of relationship. I have never noticed any
intimate connection between more distant relations.

The food of the Wanyoro consists principally of vegetables,
bananas, sweet potatoes, Helmia bulbifera, gourds, corchorus,
purslane, &e. All these are made into a porridge with ground
sesame seeds, except bananas, which are plucked before they
are ripe and roasted. Ripe bananas are seldom eaten; they
arse used to make mwénge, an intoxicating drink. Eleusine
corn, finer-grained and of a paler colour than that grown
farther north, is rubbed into flour with hot water, which
removes its bitterness. When meat is to be had, it is eaten,
even if very high; the bones are broken in pieces and boiled
with the meat, and then the marrow is eaten, but it is much
disliked when raw. - Marrow, with termites (wswa) and sesame,
is made into a dish "of which a man leaves nothing for his
children." Blood boiled with butter and salt is only eaten if
meat is scarce, and then but by few. - Milk is drunk fresh and
unboiled. Game (antelopes, &e.) is a favourite food, while
elephant's flesh is never eaten, and hippopotamus meat is
shunned, as it is thought to produce skin diseases. Many of
the Wanyoro (in the lake districts) are industrious fishers, and
eat fish with great gusto; but others entirely avoid and despise
it, as well as fowls and eggs.

Salt is obtained in large quantities near the Albert Lake,
at Kibiro and Mbakovia, by lixiviation from the clayey soil,
and is taken for sale as far as Uganda. It is for the most
part grey and dirty, and has a strong taste of saltpetre, but
from the same district good white salt can be obtained. The
poorer people prepare salt by soaking the ashes of papyrus and
rushes in water. The lye is filtered through a vessel filled
with hay, having a bottom pierced with numerous holes, and
is used in a liquid state. All the Wanyoro eat salt. Fire

UNYORO COOKERY. 73

is produced by holding a stick vertically in a shallow hollow
made in another stick lying horizontally, and twirling it quickly
round; the spark is caught in hay or old bark cloth. This
process, however, demands a good deal of skill. The honey of
wild bees is much liked ; it is eaten alone or with porridge.

Durrah and eleusine are mashed into a thick porridge, and
cooked with sesame, butter, honey, or meat broth,. Roots,
too, are used, such as wild yams and a very bitter red root
(coccinia ?). - Manioc is eaten only in the south. , Sweet pota-
toes (Batatas edulis) are boiled in water. Pepper (Capsicum
comnicum) is avoided, as productive of sterility; while a solanum
with small orange-coloured, cherry-shaped fruit, of disagree-
able taste, is much liked, and is even eaten raw. - Gourds are
planted in great numbers, and are made use of as food and as
vessels. - Leguminous plants are much prized, such as P/Aaseolus
lunatus, Ph. mungo, Vigna sinensis, and two or three other
kinds. Beef is eaten only by well-to-do people, goat's flesh
universally.

The habit of eating earth is known in Unyoro, and is
practised as a remedy for a disease to which both sexes are
liable. The kind of earth most liked is that with which the
termites are in the habit of arching over their passages on the
trunks of trees, but ordinary earth is not despised. This prac-
tice, if long continued, is said to cause discoloration of the
skin and hair, as well as general emaciation, and finally death.
Nightmare is ascribed to overheating the body by food or
clothing.

Throughout Unyoro and Uginda the women are the cooks ;
but the chiefs employ men cooks (mfumbiro), with whom they
have made blood-brotherhood, and have separate kitchens for
the men and women. The great chiefs always eat alone, and no
one may touch or look at the dishes prepared for them. Infe-
rior chiefs often invite their favourites to their table, and when-
ever a crumb happens to fall to the ground from the chief's
hand, these men snatch it up at once and swallow it, in homage
to their lord! Women eat in a separate place, and after the
men have finished ; it is considered a particular sign of favour
when a woman is invited by her husband to eat with him,
but the Wawitu women who spring from ruling families are

76 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

privileged in this respect, for they always eat with their
husbands. The boys eat with the women. Meat is preferred
cooked with vegetables, especially unripe bananas. The pots
used for cooking are round, and exactly similar to the water-
vessels, but smaller. The food, when ready, is poured into
boat-shaped dishes standing on feet, which are placed on a mat ;
the company gather round them, and eat with their hands;
spoons, however, cut out of gourd-shells, are in use. - There are
altogether three meals in the day. After eating, in which the
Wanyoro are moderate, a strip of wet banana bark is used to
wipe the hands. The fireplace used for cooking is often situated
in: a small compartment walled off by reeds (in Uganda they
have separate huts for cooking, called It consists of
five stones so placed that the longest and broadest is in the
middle, and the others stand two in a line to the right and left
of it (ic@ :), so that several vessels can be put on the fire
at once.

For storing corn (eleusine) clean holes in the ground (ku-
butta) are used. Fish is split open, cleaned, and dried over a
smoky fire; this is the method of curing employed on both
lakes.

The drinks used in Unyoro are sindi, mwenge, and mérvua.
Sind: is the juice of ripe bananas, freshly pressed out, and little,
if at all, fermented. It is a pleasant drink, resembling wine,
and slightly sparkling, and is more especially affected by the
ladies; when it comes into the market at all it is rather
dear. Jfwenge is prepared by mashing bananas ripened arti-
ficially over a fire or underground, adding water and roasted
durrah, and allowing the liquor to stand until it has become
highly fermented. This beverage is sour, and very intoxi-
cating. Its manufacture is described by Speke and Grant,
who also give illustrations of the preparation of the durrah,
or eleusine beer (mérvua), used all over Africa. Corn is not

malted here. The use of mweénge is so-universal in Uny6ro, :

and particularly in Uginda, that I believe many people never

drink water. The Wanyoro take enormous quantities of it, .

and even little children drink it with the greatest delight.
Yet I have never seen drunken men here as in Europe.
Muwénge is either drunk from gourd-bowls or sucked up from

USNYORO COOKERY, 77

gourd-bottles through small tubes very elegantly worked.
The lower extremity of the tube (@usaka) forms also a kind of
filter for the turbid fluid. Each family manufactures drinks
for its own consumption. Spirits, in spite of Baker's instruc-
tions, are not made, but are readily taken when they are to be
had. In Uginda the Arabs distil spirits from bananas.

Coffee-drinking is unknown, though the tree grows in the
south, and berries are exported in large quantities from
Uganda to the north. The sugar-cane, which is cultivated
everywhere, is eaten, but not made into sugar. It has been
remarked before that many kinds of food are avoided as
causing disease. Thus, the flesh of the hippopotamus and
of the larger fishes is said to produce skin diseases,. No
reptiles are eaten, not even the python, nor is the raven (Corvus
scapulatus Daud.), whereas all the larger rodents are consumed.
For cannibals, who bear the general name of " Valiabantu "
(man-eaters), there exist, singularly enough, different names
in .Unyoro and in Ugianda-msert in the former country, and
miluggu in the latter, Does this fact indicate that the custom
is really practised ?

It is remarkable how proud the wives of the chiefs in this
country are. To begin with, they do no cooking; field work
and water-carrying are left to the servants, and the mistresses
sit on their mats and do nothing but smoke and talk. For
clothing, they affect fine leather imported from Uganda, covered
with material made from bark, and adorn themselves with rings
of brass and copper, strings of pearls round the neck and waist,
sometimes also with anklets. The rings often cover two-thirds
of the forearm. I have seen cuts or scars as ornaments, but
only on women from the south-western districts.

The food of the people varies extremely according to their
rank,. - Whereas milk is much liked by all classes, and the fat
wives of Kabréga and the greater chiefs are only permitted to
live on milk, except twice a week salt porridge mixed with
broth, and sometimes a handful of raw salt, the lower classes,
unless they are prevented by personal dislike or fear, eat what-
ever their limited agriculture and the animal world afford them.
Kabréga himself eats bananas and beef only, and drinks milk
and mwénge. His cook, as also all his body-servants, are

78 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYO'RO.

united to him in blood-brotherhood. To perform this cere-
mony a slight incision is made with a razor above the fifth
rib on the right side. Coffee-berries are soaked in the blood,
and are exchanged and eaten by those participating in the rite.
The covenant thus made lasts for life. The parties to it never
desert one another in danger, and frequent the houses and
converse with each other's wives without constraint or suspicion.
A case of breach of faith has never been known. I met with
the same custom under the name " pobratimstvo" among all
the southern Slays.

Among the narcotics used, tobacco, which is much smoked
by both sexes, takes the first place. It is called in Unyoro
as well as in Uginda "tabo," and is obtained from two
different plants, one of which-Nicotiana virginiana, the most
common-has white flowers, tinted at the edge with pink, and
reaches a height of about three to four feet, but bears only
medium-sized leaves, which have a strong aroma, and suffer
greatly from the attacks of insects. The other kind, much
stronger in flavour, has fawn-coloured flowers, and is rather
a smaller plant than the former, but it is dying out.: It
is also called "taba." Where the word "irkabwe," used in
the market here for tobacco, comes from, I cannot tell ;
perhaps it is borrowed from another language (Galla ?). I
am inclined to believe that the species with yellow blossoms
is indigenous. The leaves, without much sorting, are simply
dried on the roofs of sheds; they shrink a great deal, and
produce a very good tobacco, though of rather unattractive
appearance, which is made up in bundles to be sold. It is
generally known that tobacco grown on low-lying land is
mild, and that from high ground strong. The tobaccos
from Nkole and the highlands of Uginda are considered the
best. The pipe-bowls are spherical, large, and strong, and
are attached to long stems, which in Londu are formed of
two pieces tied together with varan-skin, and are as much as
five feet long. I have only seen namkzle’s (argilis) in Usoga.
Every one has his own pipe; but when he happens not to -
have it with him, he takes a few whiffs from his neighbour's.
The larger the bowl of the pipe, the greater the Gentleman
who uses it; I have seen bowls whlch would easfly hold a

MARKET TERMS. 79

pound of tobacco; they are half filled with glowing embers
and half with tobacco; perhaps the carbonic oxide increases
the soothing effect of the tobacco. The most singular pipes
I have yet seen are those used by Unyoro magicians; a huge
twin bowl, ornamented all over with short conical spikes, is
fastened to a short heavy stem.

In addition to tobacco, coffee-chewing is also indulged in in
Unyoro and Uganda. The coffee-tree grows in the southern
portions of both countries; it resembles the tree I have seen
in Southern Arabia, only that the leaves of the kind which
grows here are larger. The pods are gathered when still
green, dipped in hot water and dried in the sun, and then
sold and consumed without further preparation. Many per-
sons, however, partially roast the pods. The taste of the pod
is peculiarly aromatic, and causes a slight secretion of saliva;
I could never discover any other effect; on the contrary, the
natives maintain that a couple of coffee-berries will drive
away hunger, and likewise that the berries are a remedy for
over-indulgence in mweénge. - It is customary among the better
classes to offer one another a few coffee-berries.

Articles, when offered for sale in the market, bear names
entirely different from those in everyday use. Whereas the
ordinary word for tobacco is " taba," it is called in the markets
here "irkébwe." Phaseolus lunatus, usually " unverdéngo," is
called "btima ;" and bananas, usually "bitoki,"' are called
" kahéenda." I cannot at present venture to decide whether
we have here to do with words borrowed from another lan-
guage (the original language of the country, or the Galla idiom)
or with mere provincialisms. The latter is improbable, for,
later on, people in the Kikunguru Mountains, who live at a
considerable distance, and have no connection with Unyoro,
identified the words when I mentioned them. Besides those
given above are the following :-Vi@akonga (mwénge), a drink
made from bananas ; juru (megita), butter ; rumomoro (ayata),
sweet potatoes ; rengua (munyu), salt ; kydnyoa (nydma), meat ;
kabumba (busiéni), flour; udivua (mudéri), coffee; karaman-
yaro (isomai), a spear; kisvéko (mbiuguy, bark cloth, The
names enclosed in parentheses are those in daily use.

Among the crops cultivated in Unyoro are yams (bira?),

80 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

Helmia bulbifera (makingo), and Voandzeia subterranea (mpéndi),
which is here self-coloured, red or black, and boils quite soft,
in contrast to the hard,. speckled Bari variety. <- Manioc
(Manihot utilissima) is only to be found in the south of the
country, and has been introduced from the other side of the
equator. Phaseolus mungo (mntoyo) is much esteemed, and
seems to be widely distributed ; I remember seeing this kind
in Southern and Eastern Arabia, where it is called munge.

My attention was repeatedly aroused in the evening by a
drumming, rapping noise, which continued far into the night.
It was produced by the collectors of termites, who light a fire
beside the " kénatir" (ant-hills), and, as they imagine, induce
the male termites to swarm out more rapidly by beating pieces
of wood together. These insects are eaten raw or roasted.
They are called usvé, and their hills kigvé.

It is a curious fact that, among all the Negro tribes in this
part of Africa, domestic animals, kept in confinement, are
exceedingly rare. 'The negro's mind is not adapted for taming
wild animals ; his nature is entirely negative. Here and there
one comes across a domesticated wild cat, or perhaps a house-
cat brought from the north. The dogs are of medium size,
with slightly pointed muzzles; they carry their rather long,
short-haired tails erect, are lop-eared, long-bodied, lean, and
usually of a buff colour.

Hunting parties often take place. When they are arranged
privately, those that take part in them choose the leader among
themselves; but when they are set on foot by the chief of the
tribe, he appoints the leader. The man who throws the first
spear at an animal receives a fore-foot if it is killed. The
division of the booty is effected by general agreement. If the
game runs on to ground belonging to another man, and dies
there, the owner receives the right fore-foot. If a leopard or
lion is killed near the king's dwelling, the whole animal is
carried to him; if the place where the animal is slain is too
far off, only the skin is brought to the king. When people
kill one of these animals on foreign soil, the skin belongs to the
king of the country. One tusk of all elephants slain belongs
by right to the king, the other may be kept by the hunter,
but the king usually gives him a girl in exchange.

KABREGA'S CAPITAL 81

The huts of Kabréga's capital are grouped in threes and
fours, surrounded by straw fences, and hidden away in banana
woods and in depressions of the ground ; but being scattered
about in large groups, they cover a great extent of ground ;
there may be, perhaps, more than a thousand of them. All
are built in the hemispherical form typical of Unyoro; most
of them have two rooms and high doors with porches. - Only
Kabréga and his principal chiefs possess large seribas. The
whole settlement shows signs of incompleteness, but Kabréga
has only lived here since the occupation of the station Lond
by our soldiers. There are at present no fields in the neigh-
bourhood. Here and there between the filthy huts small markets
are established, where flour, salt, coffee-berries-which are very
dear-and meat are the current articles, to which are added
sheep, goats, cows (rarely), bark cloth, spears, tobacco, beans,
and butter neatly wrapped in banana-leaves. Simbi (cowries)
serve as money. They are strung together, 100 on each
string, and 500 are equivalent in value to about three and
sixpence. A very small basketful of flour costs ten simbi ;
meat is sold by the piece, the slaughterer to whom the beast
belonged fixing the price. Sheep, which here are lean, and
goats cost 1400 simbi each ; an ox 4500 to 5000 simbi.

Some five or six smithies are scattered about the village,
each employing four or five workmen. I have described else-
where the fireplace, bellows, and pipe. A large flat stone, with
a smooth even surface, driven into the ground, serves as an
anvil; a solid piece of iron, one end of which is beaten into
'the form of a handle, does service as a hammer. 'There are,
too, gourd-bowls filled with water to temper the iron, some
small pitchers for melting copper and brass, and a contriv-
ance made of wood for wire-drawing. Native iron, copper,
and brass are worked into spear-heads, knives, razors, arm
iand leg rings, and necklaces, but the workmanship is by no
means superior. - Brass and copper come from Zanzibar
'through Uganda. The smithies are also meeting-places for
'all lovers of gossip. Guns are repaired by Waginda smiths,
iwho come here periodically, but they are very exorbitant, 6.0,
«demand a female slave in exchange for a gun-cock.

i The preparation of cow-hide for clothing is very simple.
4 f F

|

82 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

The hide is tightly stretched on level ground by a large
number of small pegs, and then scraped with knives until all
bits of flesh are removed ; then it is dried, and rendered pliant
by rubbing in butter. Every fall of rain makes the hide stiff
again, and then fresh rubbings are necessary ; that this process
is not exactly agreeable to the olfactory organs of the bystanders
is evident. Every one wears hides and bark cloths; men
prefer cow-hides, women goats'-hides, four of which sewn
together make a dress. - The manufacture of cloth from the
bark of various kinds of fig-trees, which are planted in the
banana groves, has been fully described by Baker, and like-
wise the mallet (nsémw), made most commonly from the wood
of Dahibergia melanoxylon, which is used for beating it. This
cloth is also made here; but the finer, handsomer pieces, those
in particular with black patterns, which only Kabréga wears,
come from Uginda, where the people excel in the manufacture
of these goods. I saw an elderly woman, wearing a fantastic
head-dress of feathers and skins, sitting in an isolated hut;
I was told that she was a very famous witch; she would not,
however, enter into conversation, but went on patching up her
torn dress perfectly unconcerned.

About midnight I was awakened by a great commotion, and
saw two houses in the village in flames. Fortunately there
was no wind blowing. Everything was damp from the daily
rains, and therefore the men soon succeeded in subduing the
fire, No excitement of any kind was perceptible, fires being
of too frequent-occurrence. _ As before stated, the floors of the
houses are padded with a thick layer of hay, and the fireplace

stands in the middle of the house. - Very often, too, the master -

of the house lies down to sleep intoxicated, with his pipe alight,
and so the mischief is done.
Until their marriage, the girls in the Unyoro villages go

about perfectly nude, even when they go out of the house..

The married women are also naked in the house, but never
in the presence of servants or of strangers. It constantly

happens that young girls spend the night with their lovers,.

only returning to their father's house in the morning, and this

is not considered scandalous. If a man, however, is caught in
a girl's hut, he is beaten until he pays a cow as ransom. If

MATRIMONIAL MATCHES, 83

a girl becomes pregnant before marriage she is taken by her
parents to the house of her seducer, and remains there until
her child is born. Should she die in childbirth, the seducer is
also doomed to die, unless he ransoms himself by payment
of six to nine cows. If she remains in health, her father takes
her and the child, and the seducer may purchase one or both
of them.. The price for both amounts to six oxen and four
sheep ; for the child alone, if a male, one cow and four sheep ;
if a female, only four sheep or goats.

When two families are on friendly terms, and wish to make

a match between their children, the two fathers, in the first
place, visit each other twice or thrice to drink muwénge, and
on such occasions many guests are invited. 'Then the bride's
father goes to the father of the bridegroom, and offers him his
daughter " for friendship's sake." - After this, the price of the
bride is discussed and fixed, and a great feast follows, to which
both parties contribute. A few days after the stipulated sum
has been paid, the bride is fetched in the midst of a large
procession ; amidst singing and dancing, and copious libations
of mwénge, the way is taken to the bridegroom's house, where
she is handed over to the bridegroom, and the whole com-
pany spends the night in singing, dancing, and drinking.
The father of the bride receives for himself and his people the
two hindquarters of the ox slaughtered on this occasion by the
bridegroom's father. On the third day after the completion
of the marriage, the whole village assembles to pad the hut
of the newly wedded couple with hay, when fresh libations
follow. On the sixth day after the wedding, the young wife
visits her parents, and during this visit, of three or four
days' duration, the husband keeps aloof. Fresh symposia
given by the father of the bride bring the ceremonies to a
conclusion. The young wife then returns to her house, and
if her husband is in good circumstances, passes her time in
smoking, coffee-chewing, idling, and paying visits.

When a woman is pregnant and labour commences, all the
women of experience are summoned to assist her. - She sits on
her heels, her knees stretched apart, while one or two women
support her back and arms, and the midwife sits in front of her,
ready to receive the child. The delivery is promoted by rub-

84 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

bings over the region of the uterus, If the head presents, it
is considered a good sign; if the feet present, it announces
misfortune to the family. Should an arm presentation occur,
it is replaced, and an attempt is made to turn; this opera-
tion is performed by men who receive special presents for
the service. Should a woman die in child-birth, abdominal
section is at once performed, and the child, whether living or
dead, removed. - The omission of this operation is punished by
the chief with heavy fines of cattle, goats, and even women, for
it is an exceedingly bad omen for the village. Many women
die of flooding, probably arising from attempts to remove the
placenta. - The umbilical cord is cut with a sharp splinter
of reed at a considerable distance from the navel, and is
tied to the body of the child until it shrivels and falls off,
which is hastened by frequent rubbings with fat. Ligature is
quite unknown. The placenta of a male child is buried in the
house on the inner, right-hand side of the door ; that of a female
child on the inner, left-hand side. Neither mother nor child
may leave the hut before the cord has fallen off, nor may the
mother shave herself, The new-born child is washed in tepid
water, and then rubbed with red clay and fat. f
The mother takes her child on the fifth day after the birth,
and sits with it on the threshold, a sheep is killed, and the
grandfather on the father's side, or, if he be dead, the grand-
mother on the mother's or father's side, gives the names. - There
are usually two, one of which is chosen at pleasure, while the
other is connected with some bodily peculiarity. The skin of
the sheep slain at the naming of the child is used to carry it -
in; the child is laid on the mother's back, and the skin placed
over it in such a manner that its fore-legs are tied together over
the mother's shoulders, its hind-legs round her waist. The -
child is suckled by the mother for eighteen months, and is then _
weaned by rubbing bitter juices on the breasts. During this.
time the woman lives apart from her husband. The women here
grow old quickly ; many are barren; most of them have only
two or three children. - Hermaphroditism is rather common.
The practices connected with the birth of twins are very
singular. - Universal festivities are held in the village, and rich
gifts are brought to the mother from all sides. The first-born

POLYGAMY. 83

(whether girl or boy) is called "zingoma," the other " kato."
The placenta of living twins is placed in a large earthen vessel
in a miniature hut, hastily erected in the yard, where it remains
during four days, and is then carried in procession to another
large hut built in high grass, and there left. But should the
twins die, they, together with their placenta, are left in an
earthen vessel in the hut of the mother until decomposition sets
in. -In this case also the miniature hut is erected in the yard,
near which a man watches to scare away the hyenas, and then
the exposure follows as before. During this time, a perfectly
arbitrary period, the inhabitants of the house may not shave
themselves, and they keep aloof from every one as a sign of
mourning. When at last the exposure is over, the men and
women cut their hair and lay aside for a time all ornaments
(rings, &c.), and, finally, the house in which the birth took
place is burned, expiation thus being made.

Among the causes which reduce the population of this
country, unlimited polygamy is one of the most important.
It would be absolutely improper for even a small chief to have
less than ten or fifteen wives; poor people have three or four
each. Now, as the chief in question has only four or five
favourites, whom he always chooses from among the youngest,
perhaps exchanging them for still younger ones when they
have lived with him a few months, a large number of
women are left fallow who would otherwise be capable of
production. To this cause must be added far too early
marriages. The fecundity of the women is confined to the
years between twelve and twenty-five. Unyoro women are
not very fruitful, whereas the Waginda and Wakidi (Lingo)
are often blessed with ten to twelve children, I have never
seen women above twenty-five with babies.

If a man in Unyoro wishes to marry, he has to buy his wife.
Four oxen or cows (three for less handsome girls) constitute the
usual price, of which two, if the wife bears a child, are paid to her
father, while the other must be kept ready for further disposal ;
that is, should the husband leave his wife, or be left by her,
the two animals become his property. A divorced wife can
marry again immediately, but her value in cattle is, of course,
smaller. Children belong to, and remain with, the father.

84 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

bings over the region of the uterus, If the head presents, it
is considered a good sign; if the feet present, it announces
misfortune to the family. Should an arm presentation occur,
it is replaced, and an attempt is made to turn; this opera-
tion is performed by men who receive special presents for
the service. Should a woman die in child-birth, abdominal
section is at once performed, and the child, whether living or
dead, removed. - The omission of this operation is punished by
the chief with heavy fines of cattle, goats, and even women, for
it is an exceedingly bad omen for the village. Many women
die of flooding, probably arising from attempts to remove the
placenta. - The umbilical cord is cut with a sharp splinter
of reed at a considerable distance from the navel, and is
tied to the body of the child until it shrivels and falls off,
which is hastened by frequent rubbings with fat. Ligature is
quite unknown. The placenta of a male child is buried in the
house on the inner, right-hand side of the door ; that of a female
child on the inner, left-hand side. Neither mother nor child
may leave the hut before the cord has fallen off, nor may the

mother shave herself, The new-born child is washed in tepid

water, and then rubbed with red clay and fat.

The mother takes her child on the fifth day after the birth,
and sits with it on the threshold, a sheep is killed, and the
grandfather on the father's side, or, if he be dead, the grand-
mother on the mother's or father's side, gives the names. - There
are usually two, one of which is chosen at pleasure, while the
other is connected with some bodily peculiarity. The skin of
the sheep slain at the naming of the child is used to carry it
in; the child is laid on the mother's back, and the skin placed
over it in such a manner that its fore-legs are tied together over
the mother's shoulders, its hind-legs round her waist. The
child is suckled by the mother for eighteen months, and is then
weaned by rubbing bitter juices on the breasts. During this
time the woman lives apart from her husband. The women here
grow old quickly; many are barren; most of them have only
two or three children. - Hermaphroditism is rather common.

The practices connected with the birth of twins are very
singular. - Universal festivities are held in the village, and rich
gifts are brought to the mother from all sides. The first-born

POLYGAMY. 83

(whether girl or boy) is called " zingoma," the other " kato."
The placenta of living twins is placed in a large earthen vessel
in a miniature hut, hastily erected in the yard, where it remains
during four days, and is then carried in procession to another
large hut built in high grass, and there left. But should the
twins die, they, together with their placenta, are left in an
earthen vessel in the hut of the mother until decomposition sets
in. -In this case also the miniature hut is erected in the yard,
near which a man watches to scare away the hyenas, and then
the exposure follows as before. During this time, a perfectly
arbitrary period, the inhabitants of the house may not shave
themselves, and they keep aloof from every one as a sign of
mourning. When at last the exposure is over, the men and
women cut their hair and lay aside for a time all ornaments
(rings, &c.), and, finally, the house in which the birth took
place is burned, expiation thus being made.

Among the causes which reduce the population of this
country, unlimited polygamy is one of the most important.
It would be absolutely improper for even a small chief to have
less than ten or fifteen wives; poor people have three or four
each. Now, as the chief in question has only four or five
favourites, whom he always chooses from among the youngest,
perhaps exchanging them for still younger ones when they
have lived with him a few months, a large number of
women are left fallow who would otherwise be capable of
production. To this cause must be added far too early
marriages. The fecundity of the women is confined to the
years between twelve and twenty-five. Unyoro women are
not very fruitful, whereas the Waginda and Wakidi (Lingo)
are often blessed with ten to twelve children, I have never
seen women above twenty-five with babies.

If a man in Unyoro wishes to marry, he has to buy his wife.
Four oxen or cows (three for less handsome girls) constitute the
usual price, of which two, if the wife bears a child, are paid to her
father, while the other must be kept ready for further disposal ;
that is, should the husband leave his wife, or be left by her,
the two animals become his property. A divorced wife can
marry again immediately, but her value in cattle is, of course,
smaller. Children belong to, and remain with, the father.

86 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

If a man marries, and his wife falls ill and digs during a
visit to her father's house, the husband either demands a
wife-a sister of the deceased-in compensation, or receives
two cows. There are instances of a man putting away his
wife and afterwards taking her back again, a cow being
killed on her return. When a poor man is unable to procure
the cattle required for his marriage at once, he may, by agree-
ment with the bride's father, pay them by instalments; the
children, however, born in the meantime belong to the wife's
father, and each of them must be redeemed with a cow.

Should the head of a house die without children, his
brother inherits everything, even the wives; if there are
several brothers, the younger ones receive small shares in
goods and wives, according to the good pleasure of the eldest,
who is the chief heir. When there are no brothers, the chief
of the tribe inherits. But when there are sons, the eldest
inherits all that is left by his father, the wives included, who,
with the exception of his own mother, become his wives. 'The
younger sons receive two women, two cows, and as much of
the other property as the principal heir will give them. Wives
and daughters have no share in the inheritance under any
circumstances. If at the death of the head of the house there
is a daughter left under age, the principal heir brings her up,
and marries her,. In default of male relations, the chief of the
tribe fills their place, and usually takes such girls into his
harem. ;

Theft 'is punished in Unyoro by confiscation of cattle or
women for the benefit of the person robbed. When a man
is killed, the nearest relatives of the murdered man have the
right to seize the murderer and kill him with a spear, and
they receive, besides, a cow from the family of the murderer.
But should the murderer escape, and they apply to the chief _
of the tribe to procure the punishment of the guilty man,
the chief receives from them nine cows and three sheep or
goats as his due, in return for which he causes the murderer
to be seized and killed, and exacts payment of the cow.
Adultery, provided the injured man surprises the offender, is
atoned for by a fine of four cows. If the chief is called upon
to interfere he receives a cow. The guilty wife is beaten, and

PROSTEIFUTION. 87

she may also be divorced, in which case a very curious cere-
mony takes place. The injured husband cuts a piece of bank
cloth in two, half of which he keeps himself, and the other half
is sent with the wife to her father. When the cows formerly
paid as the price of the bride are restored, this piece is
returned to the husband, who then burns both pieces. Wives
are seldom put away because they are childless, and the man
is always blamed who does it. I have myself seen a curious
punishment. One of the men who had been assigned to me
here as servants had tied a string round his wife's neck, and
fastened her to a tree, where she had to remain the whole
night; and this-because she had told him a lie.

With regard to prostitutes, peculiar regulations exist. In
Kabréga's establishment a great number of girls live as ser-
. vants to his wives. They are usually good dancers, or are
distinguished by corporeal advantages, and enjoy unlimited
freedom at night. 'They are called orange. As soon as
their day's work is finished, they go out, and if they are ad-
dressed by a man they go with him, and remain at his house
from four to five days, according to his wishes. It often
happens that they follow a man who pleases them of their
own accord, and stay with him. He is bound to comply
with their wishes, and to provide them with food, &c. Their
reward consists of cowries, bark cloths, dressed hides, and
even slaves, according to the circumstances of the man they
fall in love with. Should the reward fall below their expec-
tations, they always appeal to Kabréga, who, in most cases,
decides in their favour, although he derives no benefit what-
ever from them. All that they earn belongs to them, and
should one of them amass a fortune, she sets up a zerib@ of
her own, and perhaps marries one of the king's slaves. Should
one of them bear a child, it belongs to the king as a slave; if
it be a boy, it is placed, later on, among the pages (vagaréggara),
and when grown up is enrolled in the bodyguard, always as a
slave, but no reproach clings to him because of his illegitimate
birth, - If it be a girl, she is brought up to her mother's pro-
fession, and also remains, of course, a slave of Kabréga, who
comes into no personal contact with these women. The
institution seems to be very old, and Kabréga told me that

88 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

the first of such women were not Wanyoro. I have dwelt
the longer upon this subject, because prostitution, although it
prevails everywhere, is not officially sanctioned in any other
Negro country. |

Private property in land does not exist in Unyoro. The
occupier is a serf, and unless he be carried off in a raid,
remains attached to the soil, and changes masters with it. The
Wahuma are exceptions to this rule, and occupy a peculiar
position, already noticed by Speke. Their girls, however, are
frequently carried off.

While in the north, and as far south as the Somerset Nile,
earthenware is manufactured by women, the men do this kind
of work in Unyoro and Uganda. The Wanyoro, however, do not
equal the Waginda in this branch of industry. The milking
of cows likewise falls entirely to the men, and a woman may
never touch a cow's udder. - Housebuilding and procuring of
the requisite materials are also performed by men.

Salutations are strictly regulated in Unyoro. Men and
women wish each other good-morning (Ratrdte; answer,
Daabdénte) and good-evening (Geroba ; answer, Gerdobera), when
they visit one another in the morning or evening. - Merembe
is the greeting exchanged on meeting in the street or on the
road, and is followed by an oft-repeated m, spoken with the
mouth closed. When a man leaves a party he says Nkudba
(Thank you), and is answered by Rainmi. The word for
thanks is Vébbali, or the more elegant Nkuébase (L thank
you). When a man meets another of higher rank, he kneels
down before him, or stands with his body bent, until the
other has passed by. There exist particular formulse of salu-
tation for the great chiefs. Thus for Kabréga, Ngwunzono
kali (I greet the highest); for Rionga, Ngunzono diri; and
for Anfina, Ngwtnzono boki. The inferior chiefs exact the
same honours from their subjects that they pay to their
superiors.

Under the name of madiédu, the custom prevails that if any -
one is robbed, and suspects another of the theft, he takes
the supposed thief to the chief, before whom they both drink
of a magic potion made from red wood, or give it to two fowls
to drink The guilty one, or the fowl that represents him,

LOCAL GOVERNMENT. 89

becomes giddy, and is thus easily detected. This custom,
observed also in Uginda, is now disappearing, like so many
other peculiarities, before the partial civilisation of the country,
consequent on the Egyptian occupation. What I now note as
customary may after a few years have become half legendary.

The whole of Unyoro is divided into large districts, over
each of which a makingo, temporarily appointed by the king,
presides, whose duty it is to collect the contributions of cattle,
corn, &e., due to the sovereign, and to administer justice; but
he does not possess the right of pronouncing the sentence of
death, which belongs to the monarch alone-not as in Uganda,
where every makiungo may put a man to death. Appeals are
often made to the king by those sentenced by the makingo.
The petitioner kneels down before Kabréga's door at a dis-
tance of ten paces, and sets forth his requests. Kabréga
then decides-not always in favour of the makitngo. A
makungo is dependent for provisions for himself and those
belonging to him on the district he administers, in which
he cultivates large tracts by means of his own slaves, and has
his own herds. If he acquits himself of his duties well, he
remains in office; if not, a small executive force is sent by
the king, his zsertba is surrounded, and everything it contains
-wives, children, herds, &e., with the exception of grown-up
sons-is confiscated on behalf of the king. Another makiéngo
is appointed, who immediately enters into his office. They
are bound to present themselves from time to time at the
king's court with presents. Each makingo appoints a number
of matongali, who administer sub-divisions of the district on
the same principles. A makiéngo usually retains all the
matongalis he finds in power on taking office, and hence this
dignity is far more permanent than the other, often indeed it
has become hereditary. - Punishments consist for the most
part in the confiscation of girls, women, and cows; a sentence
of death is but seldom decreed by the king, for, as Kabréga
very justly observed to me, "a dead man pays no taxes."
Here, as in Uginda, the bodies of those who are put to death
may not be buried, but are thrown into tall grass.

My huts were situated on a hill, which slopes away gently
towards the west and north, while towards the east and south

go A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

it ascends to the neighbouring mountains. _ Numbers of
mimosas, fig-trees, and Combretese are dispersed among the
grass, whilst tendrils of abrus and vines form regular tangles.
At the western foot of the hill the watering-place for Ka-
bréga's cattle is situated, a well about six feet deep, on a
level with the Khor which flows close by. The bottom
is formed of a deep yellow loam, and the water is also yellow.
About six feet above the well, a long deep trench is dug in the
ground, from which the cows and oxen drink, and beside it is
a smaller basin for the calves. - The trenches are filled by means
of buckets, and every fortnight twenty to thirty loads of salt
are thrown into the well, The only place in the Upper Nile
district where I have seen smooth, fat cattle, is Kabréga's
capital. They pass by to the watering-place every afternoon,
about 1500 in number, mast of them humpless, with enormously
long horns. It is a pleasure to see the stately animals climb
the steep mountain like goats; most of them are grey, but
some are entirely light brown.

The following facts show the precautions taken to procure
the king's safety. Apart from all the huts, near the XAor, stands
a small, carefully watched togul, surrounded by its own zertba.
It covers the well set apart for Kabréga's sole use, from which
the water required for him is drawn once a day at sunrise, and
carried to his house in closed vessels. A matongali, bound to
the king by blood-brotherhood, is head of the watchmen.
Similarly the cows, which supply milk for Kabréga's personal
consumption, are kept quite separate ; they are milked in his
presence in the morning, and then go to pasture, escorted by
a man and a boy. 'The boy goes before them calling out
loudly, "the king's cattle;" and every one who happens to be
near must withdraw as quickly as possible if he does not wish
to be killed. When I asked the reason, I was answered, that
there were people whose look could turn milk into blood, so
that phenomenon is known here also.

The daughters of Kabréga's subjects are unconditionally at
his disposal, but he marks his approval of any particularly
attractive girl by giving her father a present of cattle. He
possesses also, in accordance with the universal Wahuma
(Uginda, Karigwa, &e.) custom, all the wives of his deceased

father, and cohabits with them, his own mother excepted, who,
however, does not enjoy the consideration she would receive in
Uginda. When one of Kabréga's wives is pregnant, a matongali
is summoned, in whose charge she is placed, and a district is
set apart for her support. - She remains there until she is
delivered, and does not return until the child is three or four
_ years old. - Girls remain with the mother in the king's zeribae,
.and " when grown up, may be married to their own father."
Boys, after they have stayed some years on the king's premises,
are created matongalis, and receive a district, in which they
reside with their mother and tutor. Should the monarch die,
all the tutors of the princes at once assemble and determine
which of the sons of the deceased king is the best and fittest
to be his successor. Naturally, the decision is seldom unani-
mous, but parties are formed and war breaks out, and continues
until one of the princes overcomes his rivals, and gains pos-
session of the throne, standing in the mortuary-hut of his
father, whereupon his authority is recognised. Then his
brothers and nearest relations, with few exceptions, are killed,
for so custom demands (in Uginda they are burned).

The corpse of the deceased ruler is washed immediately
after death, anointed again and again with fresh butter, and,
wrapped in light bark cloths, is placed on a high platform in
a hut and zeribe erected on purpose. Under the platform a

fire burns day and night-the favourite wives and servants
of the deceased are present all the time-until the body is
thoroughly dried and smoked ; then the favourite steer of the
deceased is killed, its hide dressed, and the corpse wrapped
in it and in a quantity of bark cloth and other hides. The
corpse remains in the house with the wives and servants until
' the war between the claimants to the throne is ended, This
: often lasts for years, and the new king's first duty is the burial
) of his father with the ceremonies, occasionally slightly varied,
'which Baker has described. In Unyoro, moreover, it is
) customary for the king, as soon as he falls seriously ill, or
| begins to break up from age, to be killed by his own wives,
I for, according to an old prophecy, the throne will pass away
I from the dynasty of the Wawitu in the event of a king dying
'a natural death.

I

I A ROYAL FUNERAL 91
|
|
é
f

62 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

Unyoro once formed, with Uséoga, Uganda, Uddu, and
Karigwa, one great country inhabited by the Wichwézi. Then,
people with a white skin came from the far north-east, and
crossed the river (Somerset Nile). Their number was very
great, and the inhabitants were afraid of them, for the white
people were valiabantu (man-eaters). _ When the strangers
had forded the river, they assembled in Matyum, a place still
existing to the south-east of Mriuli, and determined to send
a column to Unyoro, and another to the south (Uginda, &c.)
to take possession of these countries. The intruders called
themselves " Wawitu," people of Witu, a name still given to
the ruling families; but the people called them " Wahuma,"
men of the north ; in Uganda also " Walindi." They were and
are herdsmen, whereas the Wichwézi were cultivators of the
soil, As the Wawitu continually advanced, the Wichwézi
retired before them farther to the west, many of them being
drowned in the Mwutan-Nzigé (slayer of locusts) or Albert Lake,
because they possessed no boats. The remainder were enslaved,
and from their intermixture with the new comers sprang the
present light-coloured race. - Where the immigrants have kept
their race pure, they are still quite white, as in Toru and
Gambalagila; where the Wichwézi have remained pure-and
many of them still wander over the country as minstrels and
magicians-they are quite black. The immigrants adopted the
language of the aborigines, but to the present day speak among
themselves the language of the Wahuma. In Unyoro the
name Wichwézi is now synonymous with bondman, just as in
Uganda the word " Muddu " (inhabitants of Uddu), now denotes
a slave. I give the foregoing narrative exactly as I have heard.
it in conversation here, and at the same time I am constrained.
to do full justice to the account given by my predecessor, Speke,
whose work is beyond all praise.

In primeval times, say the Wanyoro, people were numerous,
on the earth. They never died, but lived for ever. But as:
they became presumptuous, and offered no gifts to the " great.
Magician," who rules the destinies of men, he grew angry, and,
throwing the whole vault of heaven down upon the earth, killed.
them all. But in order not to leave the earth desolate, the,
"great Magician" sent down a man and a woman " from

A LEGEND OF 'THE CREATION. 93

above," both of whom had tails. They produced a son and
two daughters, who married. One daughter bore a loathsome
beast, the chameleon (waisselikotto); the other a giant, the
moon. - Both children grew up, but soon disputes arose between.
them, for the chameleon was wicked and spiteful, and at last
" the great Magician " took the moon up to the place whence
it still looks down upon the earth.. But, to keep in remem-
brance its earthly origin, it becomes large and brilliant, and
then decreases, as though about to die, yet does not die, but
in two days passes round the horizon from east to west, and
appears again, tired from its journey and therefore small, in the
western sky. - But the sun was angry with the new rival, and
burnt it so that the marks are still visible on its face. The
chameleon and its progeny peopled the earth, the tails were
lost, and the originally pale colour of the skin soon became dark
under the glowing sun. At the present time the heavenly
spheres are inhabited by people with tails, who have many
herds. The stars are watchmen which "the great Magician "
(Nyavankya or Kégra) posts during the night. The sun is
inhabited by giants.

The belief in magic and amulets, as well as in the possibility
of making people ill, or even compassing their death by means
of charms and incantations, is widely diffused in Unyoro and
Uganda. Naturally no trace is to be found of the idea of a
future life. In both countries the women are buried in the
court of the house they have occupied to the right-hand side
of the door, the men to the left of it. The graves are horizontal,
and three to four feet deep. The corpse lies on the right
side, as is usual in sleep. The Wanyoro, however, who live
on the Albert Lake, bury their dead, men or women, in the
middle of the courtyard, and erect above the grave a miniature
hut, in which tobacco, pipes, bananas, mwénge, &c., are de-
posited. Young children are everywhere buried in the garden
which adjoins each house.

There is a singular belief that certain men leave their huts
at night, and kill travellers in order to eat their flesh or
employ it in various magic arts. They retain the human
form on their night excursions, but owing to magic power
they cannot be caught. Spears and bullets do not touch

$4 ~ A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

them, but strong long sticks do, and with these a man can
drive them before him until at dawn they can be seen and
recognised. The passion for human flesh runs in certain
families, and is hereditary. The members of these families are
useless as servants, and their girls make good-for-nothing
wives, for they are perverse, and will not cat every kind of
food. Such families like to introduce new blood by making
matches in far-distant places. - (Girls from the neighbourhood
will not stay with them, but run away, and will not reveal
what they have seen. Women have the monopoly of a
certain power of charming, which consists in bewitching vege-
table or animal food with their eyes, and then giving it to
some one to eat, who is immediately seized with violent pains
in the stomach, which do not pass off until the charmer is
brought and spits three times on the body of the sufferer.
The belief in the evil eye, both of men and women, is
universal; means of protecting oneself against it do not exist.

The cutting of children's upper incisors before the lower
appears to be feared as bringing misfortune, and when it
occurs, the mbandua (magician) is at once summoned to per-
form certain dances for the protection of the child, and is
rewarded by a goat. Such dances, indeed, constitute a
universal remedy for sickness. Epilepsy (nsimbo) is common,
but is not considered hereditary; girls afflicted with this
disease have a difficulty in finding husbands, and are frequently
married without payment of the equivalent in cows. A remedy
for the disease is unknown.

Insanity (ialw), and also temporary mental aberration, are
frequent; the latter is treated with herbal remedies, which
effect an immediate cure by means of sleep and sweating.
Polydactylism is rare. If the superfluous fingers are noticed
at birth, they are at once removed ; otherwise they are left.
Smallpox is much dreaded; as soon as any one is
attacked by it, and the pustules are filled with matter, they
are opened and washed with lukewarm water. As often as
fresh matter is formed, the process is repeated, yet the sufferers
usually die. Vaccination is quite unknown. - Syphilis (kabre-
venju) is very prevalent, but I have never noticed widespread
disorganisation, and a tendency to self-healing always predomi-

THE DOCTRINE OF PREDESTINATION. 95

nates. The sores are usually dressed with caustic herbs, and
are thereby made worse. - Exostosis is common, and its syphi-
litic origin recognised. The same is true of partial loss of
pigment, especially on the hands, which is very common in
Uganda. Syphilis is said to have been unknown in Uginda
formerly, and to have first shown itself there in Kamrisi's time.
The disease then made its way to the east, and first appeared
in the districts ruled by Rionga, whereas it was still unknown
there in the time of his brother and predecessor, Kabadima. (It
has followed the track of the Nubians!) Excessive development
of the Labia pudendorum sometimes occurs. In Uginda, by
methodical stretching and tying, a considerable lengthening
of the Labia minor is produced. - Cireumecision is not in vogue,
except among the inhabitants of Londi, who came from the
west.

Africa seems to be the original home of the doctrine of
predestination. - Faith begets superstition. - If an owl screeches
near the house, its master dies. If a hysena or a jackal re-
peatedly approaches the house, misfortune is at hand; when
the rhinoceros-bird croaks, rain may be looked for. If a
wagtail sings on the threshold, guests or presents arrive. If
a man kills wagtails in the house, fire breaks out in it. If a
wagtail forsakes its nest made in the house, misfortune is near.
Vultures and ravens are chiefs among the birds, and their
slaughter causes illness. If vultures alight on the top of
a poor man's house, he will receive rich gifts and presents.
Skin of the otter (Lutra inunguis) worn on the body acts as an
aphrodisiac. A piece of the hide of the white rhinoceros, worn
on the body, makes a man invulnerable. If a woman is the
first to enter the house in the morning, it is a good sign ; if a
man, the contrary. An eclipse of the sun announces the death
of the ruler. If on moving from one house to another, anything
is broken or a woman falls on the way, the family returns to
the house it has just left. If, on starting for a campaign, a
buffalo runs across the path, or a guinea-fowl flies up before
the warriors, this portends the death of many men, and every-
one turns back. The bat, which flies into the house, brings
news. 'The Wanyoro spit three times whenever they see a
shooting-star.

96 A DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO.

Dreams are also well known to the Wanyoro, but it is not
usual to interpret thema. As oracles, the entrails of fowls are
used, which are examined after they have been cleansed from
blood and laid in lukewarm water; the augur decides from
the colour and form of the convolutions and from any spots upon -
them. When an inhabitant of Unyoro is intending to travel,
he questions the mbandu@ (magician) on the timeliness of
the journey, and makes him a present. The verdict is given
from the entrails of a red or black cock, its stomach being slit
open while it is alive. If this verdict is unfavourable, the
journey is put off, The cock is thrown into high grass.

When one evening Venus appeared in the sky in all her
glory, I asked my companions the name of the star. " Nydunzi
ya kwezi," they called it, " the beloved of the moon." - Baker's
wife was named by the Wanyoro "Nyinyézi " (star), or "Nyddwe "
(white pearl). Baker himself " Mliju" (the man with the
beard).

According to Unyoro traditions, elephants and chimpanzees
were once men, and the dog too was gifted with speech, but
spoke only to his master. I give a literal translation of some
of these legends.

Legend of the Elephant.-In ancient times a man had an
honest son, but he himself was violent, and had taken many
cattle from his neighbours. Once upon a time he ordered his
son to go and occupy a neighbour's house; if he did not do so
he threatened to kill him. The son went and slept in that
house, but found in the early morning that the inhabitants had
fled. He durst not return home, whilst by himself he would
have starved ; so he prayed the " great Magician " to rescue
him, and was thereupon, together with the house, turned into
an elephant. f

Legend of the Chimpanzee.-An honest man had an only
daughter, and she was wooed by a neighbour for his son, who _
had turned out badly. The young couple lived happily for a
short time, but when the young wife absented herself occa-
sionally from the house to visit her parents, her husband re-
proached her with availing herself of this excuse to go after
other men. Each day he treated her worse; so she fled, and
returned to her father, to whom she related her misfortune, and

GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 97

he, angry at the stain that had fallen on his own and his
daughter's honour, killed himself. At this moment the son-
in-law arrived, and was transformed by the " great Magician "
into a chimpanzee. But the wife, who would not desert him
in spite of all that had happened, followed him, and from them
are sprung the chimpanzees, who still talk among themselves
like men, and have a fondness for women.

But few geographical notes could be collected, and I abstain
from giving these, lest I should fall into Baker's errors, who
on the Albert Lake took the names of chiefs for those of coun-
tries. Khor Kaigiri on Baker's map is quite unknown here.
I shall, perhaps, go south myself, and therefore need make no
guesses. - The land called by the Wanyoro, and by Baker after
them, Koshi, is properly named " Luri" Cireumcision and
even infibulation (?) are said to be practised there. Kabréga's
father brought people from there, and settled them in Londi,
and among them circumcision is still practised. They call them-
selves " Madundi." The district I am in is called " Mugaya,"
farther south comes Muéng, to the east lies Gangezi. The
names of the surrounding peoples are in Kinyoro (and Kigsnda)
as follows :-

Name in their own

language I Kinyoro (Kiganda). Country.
(raat, | Pris | s
Lango-Uméra. | Wakidi. | Kidi.
| Wiagani. I} Gani.
Shefalu,* | Wachope. | Chopi.

From some inhabitants of Usoga, who visited me, I received
some geographical particulars. - On the eastern frontier of their
territory, five to six days' march from the efflux of the Nile from
the Victoria Lake, lies, according to their statement, a place
called Taka, which is surrounded by broad trenches (sic/), as
a protection against the attacks of their eastern neighbours.
These neighbours are the " Wasiwe," who wear clothes of cotton
stuff, and fight with long swords, with which they can dexter-
ously parry spear-thrusts. - The eastern part of Usoga is called
Amara or U&amara, and is up to the present time independent.

* Tada is in the district near the Kardima rapids.

98 DUEILE TO FATIKO.

6. From DUrILE To FaATIKO,

(December 27, 1878, to January 8, 1879.)

THE NILE AT DUFILE-CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY-CULTIVATED PLANTS
-GORGE OF IGERI-RECEPTION AT FALORO-STAY AT NEW FALORO--
HUT-BUILDING OF THE MADI-CULTIVATION-VOTIVE PILLARS WITH
SKULLS OF ANIMALS-ABSENCE OF MONKEYS-THE AVIFAUNA OF
FALGORO-DRESS AND PHYSICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE MADI-SINGU-
LAR CUSTOM-RESPECT FOR WOMEN-FLORA ON THE KHOR SIRI-NEW
SITE OF FABO-VEGETATION AT FATIKO-RESTORATION OF THE
CHIEF, rocH Ana.

IN the Mohammedan world it is the universal custom, if a
journey be absolutely necessary on a Friday, not to set out
until the midday prayer is ended. Accordingly, we lost the
cool morning hours, and had instead the pleasure of embark-
ing in a temperature 97° Fahr. to gain the eastern bank of
the river. 'The river was for the time of year (December 27,
1878) extraordinarily high, doubtless owing to the damming
back of the water which was caused by the obstruction that had
occurred in the north. - The eastern bank, which falls steeply to
the river, was covered with water far and wide, and the numer-
ous stately doléb palms, with multitudes of geese and other
waterfowl, and here and there a stately yabirus (IMycteria sene-
galensis) fishing among them in the shallow water, presented a
lively, pretty picture, the enjoyment of which was only dis-
turbed by the lowing of the cow, as she swam with all her
strength, fastened by a rope to the stern of our boat.

An extensive plain, now covered with dry grass, extends
northwards and southwards from the water's edge; the.
doléb palms give place to isolated sycamores and mimosas,
which are stunted owing to the constant fires; here and there
for a considerable distance the stiff grey clay soil, mixed with
patches of fine whitish yellow sand, lies bare. While on the.
right, the soft outline of the hills of Leré runs parallel to.
the route, on the left, at the distance of a few miles, a line of!
woods is visible, above which rise three or four isolated domes..
Towards the south the land rises by gentle undulations. The:

FANIORO. 99

country abounds in game, to judge from the numerous tracks
leading to the river; elephants also appear to be plentiful.

After a short march we reached the bend of the Khor
Unyima, and, immediately afterwards, the remains of the
former seribe Jéifi, which was deserted by its inhabitants a
short time ago, because, as they told me, the fields had " grown
old," that is, were exhausted. In the middle, among the ruins
of houses, rises the magnificent tamarind under which I passed
a night three years before on my first journey to Uginda.
The steep walls of the khor permit the formation of the
ground to be clearly seen: stiff grey loam, with solid masses
of vegetable debris, rests on firm red clay enclosing many
blocks of conglomerate. As, in the course of conversation
with Negroes, who had come from the surrounding country,
and many of whom I had known formerly, some offered to
serve me as guides, I chose to continue my journey to Fatiko
by the rather longer, but at any rate more interesting, way
past Faloro and Fibo.

Our night was disturbed by legions of mice and several
concerts given by hyzenas. Our porters appeared early in
the morning, and headed by Shia, chief of the neighbouring
village, Fanioro, we marched in a south-westerly direction over
a gently rising plain, where agriculture is largely carried on.
Passing between fields from which the sesame and the second
crop of durrah had just been gathered in, we reached the
zeribe Fanioro (not Speke's Fanioro), an imposing collection
of houses with a very dense population. We changed some
of our porters here, and then crossed another undulating plain,
extensively cultivated, above which, far to the left, there
appeared two mountain peaks. Besides the plants cultivated
in the north, I saw here a kind of hibiscus with large bright
yellow blossoms, the pods and seed of which the people boil
down into a gruel. This hibiscus is found also in the Bari
district, but is never cultivated there.

Khor Igeri flows through a deep gorge. After passing it
we descended a steep declivity strewn with rocks, to the Khor
Irgari, a considerable, never-failing brook with crystal-clear cold
water, which is joined by the Khor Ilidze a little below the
ford. - Both these streams are obstructed by huge blocks

100 p DUEFILE TO FATIKO.

of rock, between which the clear water rushes merrily along,
and slender doléb palms are reflected in it. - On the banks lay
many fresh-water shells, which unfortunately were so disfigured
by fire that they were unrecognisable. The path now again
wound upwards between ledges of gneiss, until the summit of
the hill was reached, when a long chain of mountains came |
into sight on the right. A little pool beside the way harboured a

fine Varan (lizard), which would have been caught, had any one

dared to go near his long tongue-it is a dangerous creature.

Open woods of stunted trees with stiff leaves, most of which
were much damaged by fire, covered the slopes of the hill,
alternating with stretches of high grass, equally stiff and
dry. The red ochre deposited along the margin of a stream
trickled down the hillside, and its water, upon which played all
the colours of the rainbow, proved the presence of iron in the
soil. - The puddles were choked with water-lilies. - Khor Yuba,
the last large watercourse before reaching Faloro, with its tall
shady trees and luxuriant underwood, presented a woodland
scene surprisingly beautiful for this part of the country, and
reminded one of the southern Ahors. Again the path wound
up hill in the direction of the mountains. Short stretches of
wood and fields followed one another in quick succession : in
the latter sesame was spread on platforms to dry. - When we
reached the top of the hill, an imposing village lay before us,
enclosed in a high stockade; this was Faloro, the goal of
our day's journey.

The chiefs of the place are two brothers, who, since the occu-
pation of the place by the Danagla, have borne the nicknames
of "Hysna" (dab be), and " Fox" (b# husein). . Dabbe came
at once to greet us, and brought two small elephant's tusks as a
present. - They received presents in return, and promised porters
for the next morning. - Their mother, an aged dame, who seemed
to enjoy great consideration, appeared afterwards to beg for some
beads and bars of copper, and to bring her present of beauti--
fully white flour made from a light-coloured variety of telabun
(Eleusine coracanma). Tomatoes, which have grown wild here
since the time of the Danagla, as well as bananas, are found in
abundance. The Faloro of the present day does not stand on
the site of the old Danagla station, the position of which was

FALORO. u oct o ial

determined by Speke, but somewhat farther to the north-east,
on a hill at the foot of the mountains, which present a magnifi-
cent view.

Faloro is a large village with plenty of inhabitants, hand-
somely built houses, and very numerous corn-stores, which
indicate abundance of cereals; between the houses lie small
open spaces or tobacco plantations. The houses are either
mushroom-shaped or hemispherical, and when there is an outer
wall, it is made of wattle and daub, while sometimes an open
colonnade formed by the projecting roof surrounds the house.
The doors are always so low that the people have to crawl
through them ; mats of bast supported by a strong stake form
the door, which is closed when the occupier goes out. The
floor is made smooth, a hollow near the wall forming the fire-
place. A sort of slanting couch made of round pieces of wood,
and raised on four legs, occupies one part of every house.
The clay and gourd vessels are of the usual shapes. The corn-
stores-baskets made of split bam boos neatly woven together-
stand on three or four legs, are covered with conical roofs, and
are often strengthened with clay, and whitewashed.

Sesame, white durrah, eleusine, hibiscus, sweet potatoes,
yams, mungo beans, a Canavalia with round red beans, as well
as some other Papilionaces, and tobacco are cultivated on a
large scale. Bananas, which have been introduced here from
Wadelai, thrive well, but are not much eaten. Bushes of a
white-blossomed Tephrosia, about six feet high, show that fish
are caught in the neighbouring brooks.*

Votive trees may be seen here and there between the
houses; upon them are suspended skulls, antlers, horns, and
teeth, including those of leopards, small cats, Bos bubalus,
Antilope leucotis, A. ellipsiprymnma, A. oreas, boars, &c. - Lions
are rather scarce, leopards very common. It is singular that no
monkeys are seen all the way from the Sobat to Faloro, unless
the occasional appearance of Cynocephaloids in the large forests
beyond Shambé and Bor be taken into account. Along the
river they are entirely absent, as is also their companion,
the well-known green parrot (Paleormis torquatus), of which I

* The beans of some varieties of this species are used to stupefy the fish.

Ad
G Coa
t
ca

dillfo'lz‘: y ott" ~" pOFILE To FATIKO:

obtained in Lado only two specimens in four years. - Colobus
gueresa, which I frequently found south of 2° 15' N. lat., is
also not to be found on the river; but I have received
splendid skins from Fadibék (3° 30' N. lat.), and believe I
may consider this to be its northern limit in our province.
Here, in Faloro, Schizorhis zonura is heard remarkably often ;
the pairs keep faithfully together, as is the case everywhere,
but they are very shy. - By the brook which runs past
Faloro Pluvianus cegyptiacus greeted us. _ Flocks of Fringillidse
rose from the fields. Unfortunately there was no time for
sport.

Of all the riverine tribes, the Madi (to whom the inhabitants
of Faloro belong) lay most store by dress and ornaments.
They are a fine race of men, most of them above middle
height, of a light chocolate-colour, and with well-developed
muscles, slightly projecting under jaw, a strong growth of
hair, and large flat feet. - The men in particular delight in
fantastically dressing their hair, building up layer upon layer
into an elaborate curly structure. _ Iron rings on the arms and
legs, neck-rings of the same metal, of which there are often
several, one above another, becoming smaller towards the top,
so that the neck is tightly pressed together and the movement
of the head is restricted, ornaments of glass beads, chiefly
white or crimson, brass and copper rings on the fingers,
all kinds of amulets of wood and roots, and long strings
of splendid iron beads round the body and neck, form the
outfit of a dandy. 'The men,. moreover, paint themselves
curiously in red ochre. Individuals with black bodies and
red legs, others with heads and necks red all over, others
again all black, with round red patches on the cheeks and
forehead, are met at every step. The more wealthy wear the
skin: of an antelope tied above the right shoulder. The
beautifully marked skins of the Tragelaphus seriptus, which,
however, is rare here, are especially sought after for this
purpose. - In default of a better skin that of a goat is used.

The women, in contrast to the men, are very sparely clothed.
A shorter or longer tail of twisted cotton threads, generally
brown, is attached to a string of glass or iron beads slung
round the waist, and hangs down the back, and a covering in

YOUTHS AND MAIDEN. 103

front, no broader than a hand, distinguishes the married women
from the girls, who wear nothing but a string of beads round
the waist. The women, however, are not without their orna-
ments in beads, iron, or brass, the ears especially being loaded
with them, whilst the under lip is often pierced to receive a
small rod of brass.

A peculiar custom with regard to girls and boys prevails
among the Midi, and also among their neighbours, the Shuli.
Buildings raised above the ground are scattered about among
the houses of the village. They are very like large granaries,
but have in the front an oval doorway, and are smoothly
plastered with clay ; before them there is usually placed a bench
constructed of pieces of wood, to render the entrance more
accessible. As soon as signs of puberty arrive, the girls sleep
in these huts, and boys who have reached maturity have free
access to them. Should a girl become pregnant, the youth
who has been her companion is bound to marry her, and to
pay to her father the customary price of a bride. If I re-
member rightly, Burton reports a similar custom as prevailing
among the peoples dwelling to the south of the equator.
While girls thus enjoy great freedom, and are able to choose
companions to their liking, the higher position held by women
among the Midi is also shown by the fact that they are never
beaten, and are often called upon to give advice. If a Madi
receives a present, he never omits to ask for one for his wives
too. Polygamy is unlimited, provided only that a man is in
a position to purchase wives. The house-work alone devolves
upon the women, while the fields are tilled by the men and
boys.

The Madi language reminds one, by its intonation and jerky
emphatic utterance, of the tribes on the west of the river. I
was certainly exceedingly surprised to find that my servant, a
boy from Libari, on the west of the Albert Lake, who had
never been in the Madi country before, could converse fluently
here. Communication with the west through Wadelai is still
carried on to a great extent.

We had to camp out in the open, as, trusting to the
advanced season of the year, I had not brought a tent with
me, but a heavy thunderstorm soon compelled us to requisi-

to4 pUFILE TO FATIKO,

tion a house for ourselves and our baggage. We had hastily
put everything under cover, and were seeking the repose we
longed for after our long march, when a regular invasion of
bugs forced us to vacate the place as quickly as possible. It
is evident that this pest came with the dirty Danagla from
Khartium and Dongola, and thrived here ; but that these vermin
kept their ground and flourished in this precise spot without
crossing the frontiers of Faloro, while they may be sought in
vain in other equatorial regions, is at any rate worth mentioning.
The rain lasted the whole night. In the morning I was told
that my arrival certainly brought luck, for the rain had come
with me.

Close beside the principal zerib« of Faloro are situated three
other zeribas, enclosing many houses, and between them a
path led us to a high rocky ridge, running obliquely across
the road, which took us down to the Khor Radzi. Here, in
a cleft of the rock, lay a beautifully marked python, some
thirteen feet long, benumbed with cold, which the Negroes
immediately devoured. - After twice crossing this khor, we
ascended to the zseribe Peggo, lying in the midst of crops
upon high hills, which extend obliquely across the road
from the right. Upon their slope we passed the Khor Siri, a
large brook of beautifully cool water, flowing from S.S.W.
to N.N.E. which we forded with some difficulty, owing
to an island formed of huge stone blocks which lies in
it; the water came up to our thighs. We crossed a few
more brooks, and then came upon a motley collection of
open woods and fields of durrah, sesame, and hibiscus. The
high bluish-green foliage of the Amona senegalensis is found
here (northern limit); the waving branches of Grewia mollis
hang over the path. All the hill-slopes, where there is suf-
ficient moisture, are clothed with open woods of Terminalias,
free from underwood. Long stretches are covered by a tall .
Solanum with yellow fruit; it springs up in large quantities
on ground that has been formerly cultivated. Tmetoceras
abyssinicus stalked solemnly about in pairs over the corn-fields,
their hollow-sounding ery foretelling rain, they say, and high
in the air a lark was warbling.

After giving our porters a short rest at the Khor Lazimon,

"Amnet

ARRIVAL AT FABO. 103

the banks of which are bestrewn with numbers of granite
blocks, we arrived at the village Fadomo, which had been
completely destroyed by fire a few hours before, but was
already in course of rebuilding. We saw from the ruins that
the houses are divided by a high clay wall into two rooms with
a door between them.

At this point we came upon a sea of rustling grass, broken
occasionally by small woods; and at last, after a short but very
monotonous march, we arrived about noon at Fibo, another
important village, where we were to stay for the night and
change our porters. This Midi village is not identical with
the Danagla station of the same name visited by Linant, but
is situated on the other side of the Khor Asi, which winds
round it, and after joining the Khor Eyiupi, a little below the
zeriba, flows into the Khor Unyiama.*  Eyilipi is the larger of
the two. - The old settlement lay about half an hour's journey
farther to the south-west, according to the statement of the
natives. Here too we were very kindly received, but I was
somewhat surprised that at this place and at Faloro I was
asked to request the Government to send Daniaglas here
again.

The zeriba is similar to that of Faloro, but is less densely
inhabited, because most of the people live in two adjacent
villages. - My descriptions of the architecture, customs, and
cultivation of Faloro are applicable here. About five minutes'
walk to the south-west of the zertba, the Khor Asi flows over
rocks from north-west to south-east. Its banks are edged with
luxuriant vegetation, and fine bananas are mingled with the
other trees, from which are suspended numbers of long straw
cylinders that serve as beehives; the honey is yellow and
very sweet. Made wiser by the experience of the night before,
we encamped under a tall sycamore; but soon the threatening
storm-clouds indicated a rainy night, so we sought shelter
under the roofs of some empty granaries This protection,
however, unfortunately proved insufficient when the rain rattled
down. The very uncomfortable night was in some measure
enlivened by a visit from a hysena.

* For the actual course of these rivers see the accompanying map, from which
it will be seen that the Eyupi and Unydima are distinct rivers.-E. G. k.

106 DUFILE TO FATIKO,

Cold and shivering, we set out again at six o'clock on the
morning of December 30th (here one feels acutely a tem-
perature of 66° Fahr.) . After crossing the two khors, Asi and
Eyupi, we reached the zertba Faquéri, where we had to wait
some time, because three porters had run away and had to be
replaced. Open wood, crops, and grass were then passed
through, two small mountains before us serving as landmarks.
A short distance in front of them Khor Otsamé flowed from
S.W. to N.E., and on its banks many Amomums flourished.

From this place to Fatiko the ground rises in terraces;
plateau succeeds plateau, bordered as a rule by high hills or
isolated mountains; wherever a stream favours their growth
stand quantities of fine doléb palms. Khor Unyima, which
we now reached, is the main artery of the water-system of this
country, and here presents a lovely aspect, being clothed with
rich vegetation. As we approached the plateau of Fatiko, the
ascent grew continually steeper; rock ramparts had to be sur-
mounted, and dome-shaped heights often flanked our road on
either side. Well-peopled zseribas were visible on four small
elevations to the right of the road; a Vitex laden with ripe
fruit, and standing on a bank of stones, provided us with a
good halting-place and sweet fruit. 'Then the journey was
continued, and after passing some small Shiuli villages, near
which were very extensive tobacco plantations, we reached
about 4.30 P.M. our station, Fatiko, formerly Baker's head-
quarters in the Shiuli district.

As a stay here of several days was necessary to transact
official business, leisure was afforded for collecting ; but, in spite
of all my pains, I could not get a Manis, though the animal is
to be found here. Baker has published so much concerning
Fatiko and its neighbourhood, that it would be useless for me
to go into details. - Very little change has taken place since
his time, and Fatiko is still the granary of the whole country
from Dufilé to Mriali.

So early as Baker's time, Rochima (Rot Yarma) was chief
of all the Shuli, and his first visit to Baker is fully described in
the latter's " Ismailia." It was chiefly owing to Rochama's
influence, that his people allied themselves so willingly and so
closely to the Egyptian Government. Nevertheless he was so

A VISIT TO ROCHAMA. 107

insulted by a later commander of Fatiko, that he completely
withdrew, and was not seen for years. I was the more sur-
prised, therefore, at receiving a visit from his son, who invited
me to go to his father, for he had heard of my visit to Ka-
bréga.*  Rochima wished to have a talk with me, but did not
] dare to come here, so, as our side had done the wrong, I
willingly assented.

We turned in a direction nearly due east, towards the grand
forest which covers the slightly rising undulating ground before
us,. Terminalias, isolated acacias, doléb palms, Ficus, Com-
bretacese, resplendent with red blossoms, an occasional date-palm,
Vitex, and Albizzias, between which here and there a gigantic
Dahbergia or an equally beautiful tamarind peeped forth-all
these formed a rich display, and, with their feathered inhabi-
tants, provided so many objects of interest that the journey of
an hour and a half to Otongole passed very quickly. We left
the little village just mentioned on our left, hidden among
bananas and tall trees, and surrounded by masses of rock, but
all the inhabitants were assembled on the rocks to see us pass
by. Proceeding in the same direction, we entered more ex-
tensive woods, and came at last to a large khor in a deeply
sunk bed, on the farther bank of which stood the village
Bayira, Rochama's headquarters.

A guard of honour awaited us, composed of about twenty of
the chief's servants, dressed in coloured cloths, and armed with
old muskets; he himself stood on one side, surrounded by a
group of Negroes, freshly painted red and clothed with skins, all
awaiting my arrival. We were now requested to wait a moment
until the two goats we had brought with us were killed and
their blood sprinkled on our path ; then Rochi@ma stepped across
the blood to greet me by touching my hand, and then he led
me into the village near by, where an ankareb was placed for
him under a tree, and my chair stood near in the shadow of a
house. On either side of the chief stood guards, muskets in
hand; before him knelt a young man who appeared to be his
confidant; some 250 to 300 painted Negroes in the most
diversified costumes, with iron and bead ornaments, crowded

* Speke has already alluded to communications between Unyoro and Gini.
Gani is the Kinyoro and Kiginda name for the Shuali district.

108 DUFILE TO FATIKO.

round us, mingling with armed men, women, children, dogs,
and fowls-an animated scene.

The Shuli chief is an old man with a curious squint; his
gala dress consisted of fresh red paint, an antelope skin over
the shoulder, and some iron rings. He seemed very pleased
with the presents I had brought for him, gave me in return a
splendid elephant's tusk, and then sent for his better-half, a
very old woman, who, however, still appeared to take pleasure
in glittering glass beads. When our official discussion was
concluded to our mutual satisfaction, I left the old gentleman
to indulge in mrisse with his subjects about him, while I took
a walk through the little village. I must here remark that
Rochima's proper capital lies about six hours' journey farther
on, beyond the Khor Asa.

The construction of the houses here strikingly reminds
one of the Shiluk huts; the huts for girls and boys already
mentioned, when speaking of the Midi, are also found here.
Votive trees, hung over with skulls, are common, the skulls of
dwarf antelopes and rodents being conspicuous among them.
At the foot of one of these trees stood a pot with small-leaved
Liliaces ; little pieces of it are laid over traps to ensure success
to the trapper. The chief implements are of the usual descrip-
tion, except that the murkhakka (grindstones) are neatly encased
in clay. The spears only differ from those of the Wanyoro
in having a broader blade; the shields are oblong, with sides
curving inwards, and are made of buffalo hide. The clothing
of men and women, their ornaments, &e., are exactly similar to
those of the Midi. Dogs and cats were the only domestic
animals visible.

As the weather looked threatening, we were obliged to think
of returning home. A drink of honey-water was brought me
by a black Hebe, and then, accompanied by a large escort led
by the chief, we set off. At the khor the whole company took
leave of us, and we returned by the way we had come; but
rain beginning to fall, we were compelled to seek shelter in
the village of Otongole. On a rock in this place there is a
magnificent tree with thick fruit-pods clinging to the boughs,
and containing six to seven black, orange-capped, angular
seeds, which are used by the natives in the game of mangala.

RETURN MARCH. 109

There were no leaves or flowers to help in determining its
species. A hedge of euphorbia encircled the village. - We
reached Fatiko in pouring rain, and spent another day there.

It was unpleasantly cold in the morning and evening. Besides
this, there was rain daily, an occurrence quite abnormal at this
time of the year (January 1879), and only to be explained by
the enormous evaporation that takes place during the day from
the large surfaces flooded by the river, when the midday tem-
perature is 90° to 95° Fahr. in the shade. Therefore it is
possible that this year the rainy season is setting in earlier
everywhere. From Fatiko a beaten road leads past Fadibék to
Tirangole, the capital of the administrative district of Latuka.
Unfortunately my time did not allow me to make any excursion
to that place, but in order to utilise as much as possible my
return journey to Dufilé, I chose a new road, which will now
be shortly described.

Behind the mountain Julu, which lies close to the station
Fatiko, and at the foot of which stands Gimoro's village of the
same name, we clambered down over blocks of stone, crossed
a stream, and found ourselves on very undulating ground, the
ridges of which ran for the most part from S.W. to N.E., and
which was mostly covered with open wood and high grass.
For some distance Jebel Shua was seen on our right (Linant
has placed it much too far north on his map); to the left the
mountains of Faloro were clearly visible from the tops of the
ridges. As the road cut through the country almost in a
straight line we made good progress. We marched along the
northern bank of a small AMor, past a small zertbe belonging
to the village Fauvel, which lies a little farther to the east,
and after crossing some ridges of hills and some streams, we
arrived at Khor Unyama, which here runs from S.S.W. to
N.N.E. Icy cold water rushes along over smooth stones in
the shadow of high-stemmed trees; north of this place there
is but little water, and the little there is is bad.

The road now became terribly monotonous ; the path led
up and down hill through high grass; twice the Khor Unyama
approached so close to the road that we could plainly hear its
murmur. The brooks which crossed the road were for the
most part dry ; some, however, contained small pools with a

110 pUFILE TO FATIKO.

little dirty water covered with reeds, and by one of these puddles
we rested at midday. There is no doubt, however, that the
soil is full of water, as proved by the fine tall-stemmed Kigelias,
and still more by the bushes of date-palms, which always
require a wet subsoil. We continued in the same direction,
and almost in a straight line, until we met with tolerable
drinking water in a deep khor, on which account we took up
our quarters there for the night.

On the march I was struck by a singular cloud phenomenon.
Light patches of haze appeared simultaneously in the clear
blue sky, and descending, collected into small round snowy
clouds. These remained stationary for a time, then became
ragged at the edges, grew more transparent and brighter, and
disappeared in the form of mist, leaving the sky once more
clear and blue. This display was repeated several times, the
wind being south-westerly and the temperature cool (10.35
KAL, 76.1" Fabkr.)

The precipitation in the night was so considerable that in
the morning everything was wet through, yet by 4.35 A.M.
we were again on the way, the road leading straight on.
Shivering, the caravan proceeded by the clear light of the
fall moon; neither porters nor men cared to talk; it was
too cold. Besides, we were quite enveloped by high grass,
which made it necessary to have our guns always ready,
for just about here leopards at any rate are very plentiful.
When at last the moon went down, and the purple-red dise of
the sun appeared in the east, every one was thankful for the
coming warmth; we had, however, gained our point, for we
had left behind us a long waterless stretch of ground. The
road from Fatiko resembles that by which we reached it. The
country consists of terraces; we descended from one plateau
to another over level stretches of red clay, in which islands of
black soil cropped out. Between two solitary hills a lovely
view was disclosed of the long chain of the Madi mountains,
with their numerous peaks. Shortly after, our path joined
the old main road, and we halted at Khor-et-Tin, a grey, dirty
stream.

On this march I again noticed with admiration the keen
sight of my black attendants, one of whom suddenly left us at

BACK AT DUFILZ. TH

full speed, and afterwards returned with a dwarf antelope on
his shoulder, a fresh bleeding wound in its belly showing that
it had just been killed. How he had noticed it in the grass
is a puzzle to me. 'The animal's companion stood at a little
distance from the road, but soon made its escape. This species
is trustful and easily tamed, but does not thrive in confinement.
As we continued to descend from the AAor, we frequently came
across steep natural walls edging the plateaus, and having in
front of them deep hollows. Colonies of termites build their
crenelated hills here, being fond of red earth; delicate white
or light-blue petunias * grow on the ant-hills. A deep gorge
flanked the last descent, down which, by a slight turn, we came
to two Madi villages named Eléma, and then to Khor Dedde,
which contains a great deal of water, and empties itself into
the Khor Unyiama farther to the north. Some minutes later
we rested under the tamarind of Jéifi, where we had passed
the night on our outward journey, and from there, after a
short march, we reached Dufilé.

7. On TrRrapE COMMERCE AMONG THE
AND Waxnyoro.

COMMERCIAL ACTIVITY-KABREGA'S MARKET AN AFRICAN BABEL-ARABE
TRADERS-COWRIE SHELLS-THE KING AS A MERCHANT-SLAVES,
IVORY, COFFEE, BARK CLOTH, AND SKINS-SALT, IRON, AND MINOR
COMMODITIES.

IN marked contrast to all the negro tribes inhabiting our
territory, the tribes of the Bantu family settled to the north
of the equator, namely, the Waginda and the Wanyoro, have
brought commerce to a more advanced state of development,
corresponding to their higher civilisation. - Whether this pro-
gress is entirely due to their own initiative, or whether the
trading expeditions of Arab merchants from Zanzibar and
the permanent settlement of some of them in these countries,

* Probably a Cynium.-G. S.

12 TRADE AND COMMERCE,

has not rather given the first impetus is hard to decide.
At any rate, we should not under-estimate the fact that
the Bantu are distinguished for their active commercial spirit;
and whoever visits the markets of Werahanje in Karigwa,
in Uganda, and Mpidra Nyamoga in Unyoro will find
convincing proofs of this fact. The collection at these centres
of the most diverse products, and the concourse of types of
nearly all the Eastern equatorial races, gives a vivid picture
of the natural and industrial resources of these regions, and
a clear insight into their commercial relations with one
another. _ A few words on this subject may be of interest.

An extensive square of irregular shape lies close behind
Kabréga's large zeriba ; it is surrounded by luxuriant green
banana plantations and the high reed-fences of large groups
of huts. Gigantic fig-trees, on the grey, curiously distorted
boughs of which whole colonies of grotesque Platyceria have
settled, afford shade and coolness when the midday sun is
too scorching. Just now a lively, stirring scene is witnessed
at this place. People stream thither from all directions ; some
as sellers, laden with goods or driving before them cattle
intended for sale; others as buyers, noisily bargaining with
strings of cowries in their hands, or goods for purposes of
exchange; the light-brown Wahuima herdsman, with his
handsome clear-cut profile and his costume of skins, brings
for sale fresh butter neatly wrapped in banana leaves; the
deep-black Wichwézi pariah, decked in many-coloured tatters,
hung all over with amulets and other curious ornaments, is
bemrlng, and extolling his art-he is the gipsy of the coun-
$y ; llght—coloured Muscat Arabs, proudly conscious of their
colour and superiority, with their hooked dagger, the shamba,
stuck in the girdle, are not too proud to go marketing them-
selves, and are buying vegetables, fruits, and meat; their
soft-sounding Kisuaheli differs so little from the Kinyoro
that they soon make themselves understood ; restless, talkative
Wagainda, draped in neat tan-coloured bark cloth, have brought
for barter the handsome soft mats of Ugifnda, together with
bark cloths and thick copper wire; short sturdy men from
Nkole are selling in bundles the excellent tobacco grown in
their country ; the fair-skinned inhabitants of the hill-country

MARKET-LIFE. 113

to the south have cattle exposed for sale, and the tall Wikidi
warriors, with their towering hair and iron gorgets, look on at the
busy scene with indifference. - They do not need dress materials,
and what they want of iron, copper, glass beads, &c., Kabréga
gives them in abundance, in return for the ivory they bring
him, it being, no doubt, to his interest to win the favour of these
paying customers and secure them for himself. Among the
thronging people, crowds of neighbouring villagers push their
way and try to find a market for their bananas, sweet potatoes,
beans, gourds, Colocasia, and flour ; fishermen from the Albert
Lake with (so-called) fresh and dried fish, women with enor-
mous gourd-jugs full of foaming beer, male and female beggars,
prostitutes, naked children, all scream and shout, and cattle,
goats, sheep, and dogs add to the ever-changing confusion.
Groups of merry people are assembled around full beer-pots
making music, the venal beauties of the country lending hearty
assistance. - Those who have finished their business and are pre-
paring to go, generally turn into one of the adjacent smithies,
which here, as in all Negro countries, are the places of resort
for gossip, and among a group of idlers they are sure to hear the
latest town and court news to take back to their distant homes.
Thus the busy tumult continues till about four o'clock in the
afternoon, when the people gradually disperse, and the noise of
those that buy and sell is replaced by the barking of dogs and
the angry cry of vultures as they fight over their meal, until
they too disappear at dusk, and bats and night-jars (macro-
dipterix) commence their ghostly flight in the pale moonlight.
Before the Arabs found their way to Uganda and Unyoro-
leaving out of account a very old Arab settlement in Karigwa
-the trade of these countries must have been limited to
'the barter of articles absolutely necessary to life. The value
'of the wares offered for sale must naturally, therefore, have
depended on the pleasure of the seller and the greater or
less need of the buyer, and his means. Money, or a sub-
stitute for it, certainly did not exist. But from the moment
'the first Arabs, Musa Mzuri and Abmed-ibn-Ibrahim (who
is still living in Werahanje), entered Uganda at the invitation
«of Mtésa's father, Suna, the state of things was changed. The
up of the road to Zanzibar, a journey at that time of
H

1r4 TRADE AND COMMERCE.

about five months by land, opportunities for the sale of ivory
and slaves afforded by this route, the settlement of Arabs in
the country itself, with agents in Karigwa and Unyamwézi,
and subsequently on the lake, influenced, of course, the markets
of the country. Quantities of goods, chiefly manufactured
articles, woven materials of all kinds, clothes, weapons, ammu-
nition, copper, and brass were brought from Zanzibar, and
found ready customers among a people who have a passion for
dress and finery as well as for arms. At the same time the
need of a currency was created, and the cowrie-shell, named
in Kisuaheli kaewurt or Ahete, in Kiginda and Kinyoro simbi,
was chosen to meet the need.

These shells had long before penetrated into the interior of
the continent from the east coast, and passing from tribe to
tribe, had been employed in various kinds of worked and orna-
mental articles. - Girdles and head-dresses made of them were
valued objects. They are still found among the eastern tribes of |
the Latika, Shuli, Lingo, and Wasoga, all of whom slice off the .
rounded backs of the shells, and fix them on leather or felt, ,
with the cut side outwards, or place the whole shell in the s
plaits of their high coiffures. But the introduction of cowries &
as coin among the Negroes was reserved for the Arabs, and the &
Wagainda were very soon taught this use of them. - From that}
time till the present day cowrie money has been current, and [
both in Uganda and Unyoro even small purchases can be mades
with them. After the backs have been ground off, the shellss
are threaded in hundreds on a string of bast; five such strings®
are equivalent to a Maria Theresa thaler, a standard of values
fixed by the Arabs themselves, but often subject to slights
variations. - This coinage answers very well, for large ork
rather costly articles, and the price is constant; thus, a fat goats
costs 1200 to 1500 cowries, a sheep 1000 to 1200, a packets
of salt from Unyoro, containing about 4 lbs., 1000, a packets
of eleusine corn, also from Unyoro (scarcely any corn is grownt
in Uganda), about 400 to 600, an ox 6000 to 7000. Thal
strings are divided into halves of fifty each for objects of}
smaller value, these again into five parts of ten each, and theps
comes the smallest division of five pieces. Dried fish cost fromy
10 to 20, according to their size, a bunch of ordinary bananase

MTESAS COMMERCIAL POLICY. Ih3

for cooking 40 to 50 cowries. But the large bananas called
gonge, which are rarer and are eaten raw, cost a cowrie each. The
people have become accustomed to this money, by which, except
in a few cases of direct barter, all trade is transacted. It may
further be remarked that strangers who come to Uginda with-
out any cowries often find considerable difficulty in procuring
a sufficient quantity, for the Arabs, making a wise use of the
pressure of circumstances, often refuse to pay in cash. - You
are therefore frequently compelled to sell the stuffs, red glass
beads, clothes, &e., that have been brought with you, in order
to procure the necessary coin to meet the daily expenditure
for food and housekeeping.

While cowries have become a regular medium of exchange
in Uganda, the same can scarcely be said of Unyoro. Mtésa,
the king of Uganda, would never allow Arabs to go to Unyoro
in spite of their repeated requests, being careful of his own
interests, and perhaps a little jealous of Kabréga, the ruler of
Unyoro, whom he liked to represent as his vassal, especially to
strangers and others unacquainted with the real state of affairs.
It was much more to his advantage to claim possession of the
weapons and ammunition brought into his country by the
Arabs, and to send now and then some of his own people with
* presents" of cloth, copper, brass, and glass beads to Kabréga,
who, in return for his neighbour's Greek gifts, readily sent ivory
and slaves, and with these Mtésa made fresh purchases. It
was not till quite recently-about five years ago-that two enter-
prising traders, the Arab, Said-ibn-Seifi, and the Fundi, Hassan,
a freedman, succeeded in reaching the capital of Unyoro from
Karigwa, where they were well received, and in spite of the
system in vogue, reaped a good harvest of ivory. It is the
practice in Unyoro, as well as in Uganda, for every trader on
his arrival to present about the half of his goods, especially
powder, lead, shot, and guns, to the ruler, who in return places
at his disposal a house and garden, and gifts of cattle and
fruit, and finally, at his departure, makes him a present of
ivory, the value of which usually amounts to five times that of the
original present. - Both parties make a good thing out of the
transaction ; the Arab, whose capital brings him a return with-
out any trouble to himself, and the king, who pays nothing for

- 116 _ TRADE AND COMMERCE.

the ivory, since it is supplied by his faithful subjects. - Now, as

soon as the Zanzibar trade spread to Unyoro, cowries too were

introduced as money, and were readily accepted in the market,

The majority of the people, however, has still remained faith- |
ful to the system of direct barter, perhaps because the few

traders who have hitherto visited Kabréga's residence have

brought a proportionately small quantity of wares, and accord-

ingly have had to sell them at a high price. At all events, it is

a good sign of the active commercial spirit of the Arabs that

they have penetrated so far, while it was a serious mistake in

Gordon Pasha's administration of the equatorial provinces of
Egypt, that he did not endeavour with all his power to open

up these districts to our own trade.

The transport of goods from Zanzibar to the north was
naturally followed by a corresponding export trade from the
districts between the lakes towards the south. An attempt was
first made to take the goods which had been collected in the
equatorial districts direct to Zanzibar. It was found, however,
that the distance was far too great, even after it had been
shortened by crossing the Victoria Lake to Kagéi, and many
goods and much time were lost; consequently the centre of
the whole Arab commerce with these countries was trans-
ferred to Tabora and the adjacent Uyui. In these places
Arabs have settled, having agents who travel on their behalf
and take their wares to the north, where they often stay for
years. The Waginda, too, go themselves to Zanzibar on be-
half of their king, and there, supported by Government, they
exchange their ivory chiefly for rifles and ammunition. As
both Uginda and Unyoro possess plenty of saleable articles
among their varied products, one would readily wish them all
success in such enterprises, did not another factor come into
play which weighs heavily on the other side.

As I have already mentioned, the Arabs often settle down for
years in these equatorial countries, sometimes because the ruler ‘
refuses them permission to depart, and sometimes purely for the
sake of gain. When visiting one of their settlements, one is
struck at first sight by the number of women and girls; male
slaves, often tied together in gangs of four or five, are not so
numerous, because they have to be transported to a great dis-

SLAVES AND IVORY. 17

tance, and therefore scarcely any profit can be made on them.
With girls the case is different; the pretty Wahiima, who are
generally of rather light colour and are very handy, are most
sought after, while the Wanyoro girls, whose lower incisors
have been extracted, are less valued, as also the real Waginda
girls, owing to a universal artificial deformity. - While in the
year 1876 a girl of ten to twelve years was exchanged for thirty
to forty ells (piks) of madapolam of the ordinary kind, two years
later the price had risen to nearly as much again ; but since
then it seems to have remained almost stationary. The con-
tinual raids made by Mtésa and Kabréga, besides bringing in
cattle, ivory, and all sorts of other things, are undertaken for
the purpose of procuring female slaves, and all the dealers and
caravans passing southwards to Tabora are well provided with
this article. The Wahuma girls play exactly the same role in
the slave-trade here as the Abyssinian girls, whom they re-
semble in more than one respect, do farther north.

Ivory is still the chief export of the equatorial countries,
for hitherto scarcely any attention has been paid to many other
products of which I shall speak later on.  Uginda, except in
south-western Uddu, is not rich in ivory, as the elephants
suffer a good deal in consequence of the dense population.
They are much more abundant in Unyoro, especially in its
more remote parts, and ivory is therefore to be obtained more
cheaply in that country. In both countries one tusk of every
elephant slain belongs de jure to the ruler, who also possesses
the right of buying the other one; he usually, however, does
not avail himself of this right, because the second tusk falls to
the share of the district chief, who, besides his other payments
to the king, is bound to bring him some good pieces of ivory
from time to time. The insufficiency of the home production,
and the yearly decrease in the spoils of the chase, have long
made it necessary to fall back for supplies on the surrounding
countries; accordingly, ivory is imported into Uginda from
Usoga and the Wakidi (Lingo) district, and Mtésa is shrewd
enough to send frequent missions with presents to the chiefs
of these turbulent tribes. Wasoga and Wakidi chiefs, bearing
rich presents of ivory, are frequently to be seen at Mtésa's
court, where, being perfectly nude, they form a striking con-

118 TRADE AND COMMERCE,

trast to the elegantly draped Waginda. - Unyoro, on the other
hand, draws a large part of its ivory from the western Lingo
districts, where Kabréga's uncle, Naika, rules, and also from
the southern frontier lands, and from Lnir, which still acknow-
ledges Kabréga's supremacy. Owing to imprudent measures
on the part of the Egyptian Government, all this ivory,
instead of following its natural outlet to the north, is still sent
to the south. The value of the ivory imported annually into
Unyoro and Uginda can ouly be approximately estimated; at
all events, the complete extinction of this trade in Uganda from
want of ivory is not very far distant, and this holds true to a
less extent in regard to the Unyoro trade.

Among the now neglected products which are likely in the
future to have a great commercial value, coffee stands first.
The coffee-tree, which apparently only differs from that in
Yemen by its somewhat larger leaves and more diminutive
growth, thrives almost everywhere in Southern Uganda and
Unyoro, and seems to be indigenous. Its name, mudnt, which
is the same in Kiginda and Kinyoro, differs very little from
the names used for coffee in other parts of Africa-mbini
(Kisugaheli), mbiina (Abyssinian), bunn (Arabic). Till now coffee
can hardly be said to have been cultivated, for all that the
natives do is to keep the ground around the invariably small
trees free from weeds, otherwise leaving the plant to develop
naturally. - The fruit, too, receives no particular attention ; the
pods are gathered when still green, are usually dipped in hot
water, and then laid out on mats to dry in the sun. Of course
the two berries contained in the pod remain green and unde-
veloped, but that does not signify, as a decoction is never made
from the berries. The dry pods are stored, and generally con-
sumed without further preparation, but sometimes they are very
slightly roasted with a small piece of butter. Just as coffee
is offered to guests throughout the East, so in Uganda and
Unyoro politeness requires that strangers should be offered
a few of these pods to chew, and they are handed round in
elegant baskets of open wickerwork. The berries are rather
hard for the teeth of a European, and the shell has a strong
aromatic taste-in Yemen a very delicious drink is made
from it. The natives maintain that chewing coffee-berries .

BARK CLOTH, 119

appeases hunger; it might, therefore, perhaps be worth while
to ascertain the proportion of cafeine in these unripe beans.
The custom also prevails of perfuming the mouth with coffee-
pods after free indulgence in muweénge. Coffee is in great
request as an article of barter between the Bantu tribes, other
tribes not having yet used it for this purpose; the price has,
nevertheless, remained fairly reasonable, and the exportation of
coffee would certainly be profitable.

At the present time bark cloth is a still more important
article of barter than coffee among the equatorial tribes. It
is obtained from the bark stripped off several kinds of Euros-
tigma,* and constitutes the ordinary clothing in Uginda, and
that of the better classes in Karigwa, Ruhdnda, Unyoro, and
Usoga. Hence it is that the production has its principal seat
in Uganda. The price varies considerably, according to the
colour and quality of the pieces, and when the material has a
pattern on it it is regarded as a fancy article without fixed
price. The price of the cloth depends upon whether the tree
from which the pieces were taken was stripped for the first
time or had previously undergone the process (for strong trees
may be peeled three times), whether the material is fine or
coarse in texture, more or less durable, and soft or hard in
consistency. The cloth is of a light or dark leather-colour,
according to the length of time employed in the maceration
of the bark; the tint of a perfectly fresh piece is sometimes
that of a wheaten roll. Besides this, all undyed bark cloths
become darker in wear by a process of oxidation. Of coloured
cloths, some are dark grey, and generally worn by Wichwézsi
sorceresses ; others dark red, and worn as a great luxury by
wives of very well-to-do people; others again have very neat
and regular stripes and spots of black on their leather-yellow
ground, and resemble coarse printed calico in pattern and
general appearance. This last kind was formerly worn only
by royal personages, but in Ugidnda, where materials from
Zanzibar have superseded bark cloths for royalty, this custom
has been given up, though it is still observed in Unyoro and
Ruhdnda. As a rule, pieces of this kind (mione) are not to
be bought, and to obtain them the ruler or great chiefs must

* Ficus glumosa, Del. ; F. fessoglensis, Ky., &c.-G. S.

120 TRADE AND COMMERCE,

be applied to, who are quite willing to supply them in return
for adequate presents. The red cloths, for the most part very
fine and of a pleasing dark shade, are called séngo, and are
exchanged for two or three cows a-piece, or their equivalent
in cloths. Lastly, the common undyed cloths, called mbiigu,
are considerably cheaper, and can be purchased in the markets
for 300 to 400 cowries. As already mentioned, the prepara-
tion of this material is best understood in Uginda, and the
finer kinds are exported from that country to Karigwa,
Ruhsinda, Unyoro, and the southern highlands, as well as
to Uséga and The Luri chiefs also, dwelling on the
western shore of the Albert Lake, like to wrap themselves in
the flexible cloths of Uganda and Unyoro, so as to contrast
with their subjects, who are either nude or clothed only in
skins. They are undoubtedly superior to rokko, the cloth
prepared in the Nyam-Nyam countries and in Monbuttu from
the bark of the Eurostigma ; all pieces of rokko are coarse
and ragged compared with the pliant mbiigu, a great deal
probably depending on the preparation.

The Wanyoro share with the people of Karigwa their fond-
ness for dressed skins and hides. I do not include among
these leopard skins, which are only worn by members of royal
families, and a few privileged individuals as a mark of royal
favour; nor do I mean the various monkey and cat skins, all
of which are employed only as ornaments. Only cow-hides,
goat and more rarely sheep skins, and the skins of large
antelopes come under the head of clothing properly so called.
All these are prepared for use by being stretched out and
scraped. If the cow-hides are intended for men's clothes, the
hair is left on, the skin being softened, and, as far as possible,
the most handsomely marked specimens being selected. Those
for women, on the other hand, have the hair taken off the
entire surface except round the edge, where a border of two
fingers' breadth is left. As long as these hides are new and
clean, they look very nice, though not nearly so becoming as
the more flexible bark cloths, which drape gracefully. The
Waginda seem to have noticed this, for they are in the
habit of elegantly sewing together several goat-skins previously
scraped almost as thin as paper, thus forming large pieces,

PELTRY. 131

which, under the name of buéra, are sold at a high price,
and are a favourite article of dress among the chiefs, being
arranged as a mantle over their bark cloths. These leather
materials, however, are certainly not durable. Antelope skins
of different kinds are used more by the country people, especially
for bedding; they prefer the handsomely marked skins, or
those with long hair, such as Tragelaphus scriptus or Hydro-
tragus Spekir. The skin of an otter (Lutra), here called ngonge,
which is very expensive, and only procured with great trouble,
is in great request among the northern Bantu. Of a dark
brown colour, it has a peculiarly elegant appearance, owing to
the snow-white tips of the hairs, especially on the back of the
head, the nape of the neck, and the shoulders. It is said, also,
that a man who wears a piece of this skin needs no other
aphrodisiac. - Strips of the skin are formed into pretty bracelets,
and are also a favourite trimming for the gaily painted sandals
made of buffalo hide; such bracelets and sandals are also
exported to the far south. - The skins of Colobus guereza, which
is not infrequently found in Unyoro and Usoga, are also much
prized. The skins are black, with long white hair on the
back and a white tuft on the tail, and they are specially used in
the decoration of guitars, spear-heads, sheaths, and drums. The
beautiful goat-skins of Usoga, which remind one of Angora goats
by their long smooth hair, are likewise an article of commerce.
The goats from which these skins are procured receive great
attention, even in their own country, being protected from rain
and dirt, and living specimens are very unwillingly exported.
It is generally known that there is very little salt in
these countries, and that the people have to procure it from
ashes or even from cow's urine. It is not surprising, therefore,
that where it does exist in this region it becomes the object
of an extensive and flourishing trade. This is the case with
the salt found at Rejaf, which is exported into the district of
the Bahr-el-Ghazal, and with that from the eastern shore of the
Albert Lake, which supplies the whole country between the
lakes to a considerable distance south. The extraction of salt
from concentrated lye has been described by Baker; it comes
into the market wrapped in banana leaves, in long packets
containing four to eight pounds each, and is in particular

122 TRADE AND COMMERCE,

request in Uginda, where a high price is given for it. The
salt, which is occasionally imported from Uzinza, owing to the
distance and its consequently higher price, cannot compete
with that from Unyoro. The latter is usually of a dark grey
colour and mixed with dust, but possessing a pure salt taste,
and analysis proves it to be almost unadulterated chloride of
sodium. In contrast to all other goods, salt, with very rare
exceptions, is sold in Uginda for cash only, that is to say, for
cowries. The price of the large packets varies with the
quantity that happens to be in the market, although in small
packets it is retailed at an almost constant rate. - Besides salt,
small quantities of fairly pure soda are occasionally brought
from Uzinza; it is in great request as a remedy for colic and
indigestion, notwithstanding its horrid taste, and is sold in
diminutive packets for ten to twenty cowries.

I must here once more refer to iron, of which a very excel-
lent quality is manufactured in all parts of Uganda and Unyoro,
the iron of the former country being softer than that of the
latter. It is sometimes obtained from bog iron ore in low-
lying lands, but usually from clay ironstone resembling roe or
kidneys in its formation, and lying upon the granite. In
certain places this ironstone proves extraordinarily rich, e.g.,
on the mountains round Kisuga, in Unyoro. The iron need
not fear comparison with good European kinds.

The plastic clays of the country are most excellent, and are
used in the manufacture of pottery, which is as durable as it
is elegant, and sold everywhere in these countries at a ridicu-
lously low price. Unlike other tribes, the potters among the
northern Bantu are always men, and they manufacture small
vessels for milk and for water-the exceptionally large gourd-
bottles are preferred to pitchers for large quantities of all
kinds of liquids-and their fancy finds free scope in the
manufacture of pipe-bowls of the most varied forms, which, in
neatness of execution and originality of design, leave nothing
to be desired. They are also uncommonly cheap, and are well
suited for export.

Besides coffee, these countries yield much fine and excellent
produce in resins, fruits, and woods, although no one has hitherto
thought of turning them to account. Amongst these must be

p

i
s

t

COMMERCIAL POLICY, 123

enumerated the nutmeg of Uginda, the aromatic husks of the
Xylopia, the spicy seeds of various Amomums, and the wonder-
fully light and yet firm wood of the Schimpert,
which is here made into shields. Even the grasses are useful;
from the stalks of the Eragrostis the famous mats of Ruhdnda
are made, with their artistically blended colours, which excite
the astonishment of the buyers in the markets of Karigwa and
Unyoro. _ Simpler, but just as beautiful, are the small mats of
Ugdnda, without which no respectable man leaves his house,
for it would be unseemly to sit on the bare ground. The
flexibility of the material allows of a mat about six feet long
being made into a roll six inches in diameter without breaking
the tissue; their strength and durability are also very great.

In the district between the lakes an active trade has been
developed ; it has been set on foot by external influences, and
is promoted by the inhabitants' love of commerce. Intercourse
of the different tribes with one another, as well as with the
Arab traders, is resulting in constant efforts to open up
new trade routes and to create and satisfy fresh wants. The
Egyptian territories in the north, however, have remained in
these respects very far behind. In spite of our occupation of
the northern region, which has now lasted for many years, no
progress has been effected, for the unfortunate system of well-
guarded frontiers and a monopoly in trade, up till now looked
upon as the only protection against kidnapping and slave-
dealing, has only prevented the natural development of our
countries, and has done little enough to abolish the purchase
and sale of slaves.

Whilst in the south civilisation is slowly advancing, and
land after land is being opened up to trade, our fertile moun-
tain districts lie fallow, and with folded arms we watch the
advance of commerce from south to north, when we ought to
be up and doing, and striving continually to open up new
routes for ourselves. Would it not, then, be better to break
loose from the old Utopian system, to say farewell to philan-
thropic whims, and to adapt the administration of these fruit-
ful lands to the development of their resources and to the
supply of their needs. Should these few words give an im-
pulse in that direction, their object will be more than realised.

$T.

BEEWEEN THE VICTORIA AND FHE ALBERT
LAKES.

weww--__-_

I. A. Vist to THE VictoriIA Lakr.
(February 13, 1878.)

LANDSCAPE SCENERY-LUXURIANCE OF VEGETATION-BODIES OF THE
EXECUTED ON THE SHORES OF THE LAKE-THE MURCHISON CREEK
-BOATBUILDING.

ArTER considerable pressure King Mtésa had at last granted
me permission to make an excursion to the lake. It was im-
portant to set out for our destination as soon as possible, so as
to forestall the childish whims of the ruler, in case he changed
his mind and forbade my leaving ; a small present to the guide
assigned to me happily induced him to be remarkably ob-
liging, and we were thus able to set off immediately.

The morning sun was shining dimly through dull clouds;
a grey mist was hanging over the country far and wide, above
which the ridges of scattered hills appeared like islands, and
conspicuous among them was the long range of the table-shaped
mountain Mtiundwe. We passed Mtésa's palace and descended
into a marshy plain, the passage through which was facilitated
by a very primitive dyke, and two still more primitive bridges,
made of small logs of wood. - On all the hills which we subse-
quently passed people were industriously employed, new fields
and plantations were springing into existence, and bonfires of
plucked-up grass sent forth clouds of smoke and the smell
of burning. 'The women were busy digging in the fields,
planting sweet potatoes or plucking up the grass ; the men
were building houses or enlarging and clearing the road, which

LUXURIANT VEGETATION. 123

here leads evenly over firm ferruginous clay. 'The red soil
is covered by a layer of grey compact clay only in the hollows
and on the declivities; the lowest stratum of this clay is free
from vegetable detritus, and yields an excellent material for
pottery. - Near the lake white and yellow sand is found.

As we marched between banana groves and huts, the country
looked like a garden, Mother Nature having everywhere filled
up the gaps left by man with glorious grass vegetation and
graceful slender trees. - Impenetrable thickets, the lairs of the
leopards, which are very numerous here, at times fringed the
road, and one's eye became perfectly dazzled by the sight
of so many shapes and colours. The odour of Umbellifers
mingled with the almost overpowering scent of a Liliaceous plant
(Urginea?), which is employed here for making hedges. Groups
of Ocymum six feet high were seen, and by a small stream that
flows to the lake there were perfect nests of vegetation covering
the marshy ground, and often forming galleries along the
watercourse. Gigantic trees waved their lofty crowns in the
sunlight, and below them, in the deep cool shade, climbing
plants of every kind were interwoven. An Amomum with broad
waxy leaves grew to a height of ten feet. Calladias, Acanthus,
and many Rubiaces, although more diminutive, occupied a
wider area. Elegant palm bushes shared the ground with
splendid ferns (Asplenium), and parasitic plants, probably
Angrecum and Platycerium, grew on the branches of syca-
mores and Spathodeas, so high up that they were beyond reach.
Nearer to the lake were isolated specimens of prickly yellow-
flowering mimosas. ;

Thus, artificial and natural gardens constantly alternated,
though the former, consisting of bananas and sweet potatoes,
could not possibly vie with the latter either in picturesque
beauty or variety of species. This is indeed a beautiful, well-
favoured land, with its red soil, its green gardens, its lofty
mountains, and its dark snug valleys. Nature has profusely
lavished her charms, and man alone destroys the harmony of
these scenes. Corpses in the middle of the path compelled us
to step aside; at our approach the small Uginda vultures left
their ghastly meal with a noisy rush,. Four dead bodies were
lying there, slain by the hand of the executioner ; young and

126 A yISIT TO TIHE YICTORIAX LAKE.

old lay gathered there; the throat of one was deeply gashed
to the very spine, the head of another had been smashed by a
heavy blow, and every day, nay, every hour, people pass these
corpses, themselves perchance only too soon to meet a like fate.

About half-way to the lake a marsh was situated, which
had probably been formed by the overflowing of the lake and
by rain. It evidently was to have been bridged over, but as
the round logs which had been thrown down for that purpose
turned over when stepped upon, it was preferable to wade
through the mud. _ As soon as the adjacent hills were crossed,
the lake became visible for the first time; it appeared to be
raised above its usual level on account of the thick layer of
fog which hung over it. Glimpses of it were frequently
obtained between fields and gardens, but we had still more
than three and a half miles to march, up hill and down dale,
through banana groves, until, after wading through two
brooks and climbing a steep hill, the ground suddenly sloped
down, and we reached the shores of the lake after a rapid
march of four hours.

Usivara, which is the name of both this place and the
district surrounding it, consists, like most villages in Ugidnda,
of huts and zertbas surrounded by banana groves. The steep
shore, which for about forty feet is absolutely bare of vegeta-
tion, enables the boats to come right up to the landing-stage,
and hence is the usual starting-place for voyages on
the lake. At a height of about ten feet above the level of the
lake, some detached blocks of rock were lying on the shore, a
conglomerate of granitic fragments, and above them a gigantic
mpéfu-tree (see Cameron's " Across Africa") spread out its
majestic crown. - At a height of two feet from the ground
the tree had a girth of twenty-three feet ten inches. Up to a
height of eighty feet its trunk was smooth and free from
branches ; odoriferous resin flowed from the bark, and nests of
parasitic plants were enthroned on its branches.

An extensive view over Murchison Bay opened out here;

below our feet lay the lake, rippled by a strong south-east

wind ; at its edge was a line of yellow coarse-grained sand
about a foot in breadth, at the upper border of which dry

masses of plants lay in heaps, indicating the high-water level _

VICTORIA LAKE. 127

of the lake; the depth here was insignificant. The bay is
enclosed on all sides by mountains, except towards the south
and south-east, where an apparently unbounded horizon meets
the eye. - Well-wooded islands, of which Naluvili (named by
Stanley, Bellefond's Island) and two islets are situated at the
very outlet of the bay, add to its beauty. The shores also, as
far as could be made out from our standpoint, are well wooded,
especially those of Koja. A thick girdle of reeds fringes the
water's edge almost everywhere, and in the shallows stretches
far out into the lake. I saw no papyrus. 'The Wagianda
praise the quality of the water highly, but, owing to the
cloudy state of the sky, I was unable to form an opinion as to
its colour. In spite of the strong wind, boats containing two
or three persons were to be seen plying from shore to shore ;
one man steers with a shovel-shaped oar, and another paddles.
The bows of the boats are curved upwards and ornamented
with horns, as well as with outriggers projecting above the
water-line on either side, to prevent capsizing.

A little boat lay by chance upon the shore ; its planks had
been joined together by means of loam and strips of bark
cloth; it also had outriggers, but the prow, instead of being
turned up, jutted out in the shape of a long triangular beak,
probably intended to help in forcing the way through the reeds.
The boat was easily managed, but wind and waves prevented
our making much progress. Even at a distance of a hundred
feet from the shore, the depth of the water appeared consider-
able, the bottom up to this point consisting of coarse-grained
sand, covered with fine grey mud. Crocodiles and hippopo-
tami were numerous, but birds, probably owing to the state
of the weather, were not to be seen. I could obtain neither
snails nor shells. Fish are dried and sent to the market at
Rubaga ; there are here fishermen by trade.

Threatening rain and the late hour compelled us to turn
homewards sooner than we wished, and on the way a perfect
deluge of rain broke over our heads, and obliged us to seek
shelter in a village situated not far from the road, for the
Waginda do not like being out in the rain. While we were
waiting, the men directed my attention to a trough divided by
a partition into two parts, and large enough to hold two men ;

128 RUBAGA TO MRULL

they took it for a boat, but it turned out to be a trough for
the preparation of banana wine. As the rain was soon over,
we were able to proceed ; but the road had in the meantime
been transformed into a brook. We reached our quarters
about sunset.

The aneroid readings were as follows :-

Rubaga, 6 A.M. (start), 63.5° Fahr., 25.65 in. ; strong south-east wind, a
clouded sky.

Usévara, 10.15 A.M. (thirteen feet above the level of the lake), 70° Fahr.,
25.90 in. ; strong south-east wind, a clouded sky.

2. From RusBica to MrCur.
(March 22 to April 8, 1878.)

DIFFICULTIES OF TRANSPORT-IN UGANDA NOTHING IS LOST-CHARACTER
OF THE SCENERY-A WAHUMA VILLAGE-PASSAGE OF KHOR ERGUGU
-FAVOURABLE RECEPTION IN MREKO'S VILLAGE-ACACIA WOODS-
CHANGE OF VEGETATION ON THE BORDERS OF UNYORO-AUSPICIOUS
AND UNLUCKY ANTELOPES-ATTEMPTED HOSTILITIES OF THE WANYORO.

WHEN the morning came, my loads, fifty in number, were
ready, all of them fairly light and firmly fastened. In spite
of royal promises, however, only twelve porters appeared, and
it was not till after endless sending backwards and forwards
that I had the satisfaction of despatching all my goods, with
the exception of fifteen unimportant bales which Matongali
Mukasa promised to send after us to our first night's quarters.
Thus I set out, glad to escape with a whole skin from the
uncomfortable position into which I had been placed, owing
to king Mtésa's suspicions of the Egyptian Government. My
ammunition, as well as the loads belonging to the five soldiers
who escorted me, were carried by Wanyoro porters, who had
come with me from Mrili and had proved faithful ; so, if any
of my goods did not turn up, the loss would be my own, and
my men would not suffer. All the Arabs living in Rubiaga,
and the Zanzibar merchants accompanied me for a short distance
along the road, firing farewell volleys, which we heartily acknow-
ledged with our sniders. These Arabs are all bloodsuckers if

ox THL MARCH. 13g

one enters into business relations with them ; otherwise they
are courteous and friendly. As my men, owing to our long
stay at Rubaga, were out of training, I made the first day's
march a short one, and encamped for the night in a large
banana wood about two miles to the south of the Kiti moun-
tains, intending there to collect my goods and chattels. By
sunset twenty loads had arrived ; those, however, which I had
sent on in the morning as the least indispensable, such as
bedding, cooking utensils, and linen, were all missing. One of
Mtésa's messengers arrived, bringing with him the compliments
of his master, and a request for rockets, which, of course, I
promised to send later on, and begged him to aid me in
getting my missing loads, which I would wait for till the
following day. I had brought a small number of goats with
me from Rubaga, and as bananas were abundant, my men had
plenty to eat. The next day we rested, and eight more loads
arrived, but what had become of the remainder nobody knew,
and Kanagurba, the guide assigned to me, was as disobliging as
possible. Late in the evening my ankareb arrived.

As I knew from my former experience of Uganda, that
nothing is ever lost there, and that my missing goods would
arrive sooner or later, I determined to pursue my way next
morning; but I sent Kanagurba back to Rubiaga, to try to
find my bedding. A rather monotonous march through high
grass, occasionally interrupted by plantations, brought us to
a group of trees, where, on the bark of a fig-tree, we found
the almost obliterated initials of my two predecessors, Colonel
Long and E. Linant. From this point many ridges of hills
running obliquely across our path had to be crossed ; between
'these ridges there were generally accumulations of rain-water
or swamps, which often compelled us to take a circuitous route.
The soil is mostly composed of grey clay. We took up our
quarters for the night at Buvima, a little village affording a
good view of the high mountains, Bova and Kili, and as no
news of our missing goods had arrived,; a messenger was sent
back to Katikiro. All round the village a good deal of
Voandezia was being cultivated ; it is always uniformly coloured
red or black, and quickly softens in cooking, whereas the

variegated harder species found in the Bari country does not
i

130 RUEBAGA TO MROLL

appear to exist here. An antelope (Antilope leucotis) proved a -

welcome addition to our larder.

Next morning we continued our journey between solid
walls of grass, which shut out all view ; park land, intercepted
by numerous morasses, followed, giving place in its turn to
open country, where a broad road is being made over the red
clay soil. This road leads to Bukrasa, a pretty, scattered
village, where we rested. A splendid view was obtained here
of Ugungu, the headquarters of Kangani, towards the lofty
mountain of Bova. After passing over a high hill we descended
to the brook Kairira, which, on our journey to Rubaga, we had
forded farther down, and we refreshed ourselves with its clear
icy cold water, which rushes over granite fragments.

Shortly afterwards we reached Briaki, where we were to

pass the night, and, to our astonishment, we found there two-

of our missing loads, but of course not the ones we wanted.
After a heavy thunderstorm had passed over us, I employed
the time in shooting guinea-fowl in order to provide food for
my men.  Briaki is situated on the verge of a hill which
slopes down into a jungle of reed and grass. Swamps, over-

grown with sedges, intercept at places these grassy expanses, |

and we only very seldom met with cultivated ground upon
the road, which, passing by the huts of Guru, brought us to
some outlying houses of the same village. Here we encamped
amongst thousands of mosquitos. This district is so thickly
populated that there was no chance of sport.

Katikiro's man came back and told me that all my goods
had been sent off from Rubaga, and were on the way, but
that where they were was uncertain. - He added that Katikiro
had confiscated all Mukasa's wives, as he had been the cause
of this confusion. We found quantities of Phaseolus lunatus

and P. munrgo in the huts, as well as small stores of dried
locusts.

From Giru the road leads through some mud runnels, but

the country is for the most part lightly wooded, and covered

with high termite hills. After a time we reached verdant

hills, on one of which was situated a small village inhabited
by Wahiima herdsmen. A number of dome-shaped huts, which
shelter both men and beasts, were surrounded by a high thorn

A WAHUMA VILLAGE a

hedge. The courtyards were excessively dirty; but the huts
were kept very clean inside. The inhabitants, who have charge
of the king's herds, had fled at our approach, as they were
afraid of the plundering Waginda, but as I entered one of the
huts a woman clad in skins offered me milk, with the request
that I should drink it out of one of my own vessels. The
Wahima never cultivate the soil, but they exchange milk and
butter with their neighbours for sweet potatoes, gourds, to-
bacco, bark cloth, &e.

Kitara, the village where we were to encamp, was situated
a short distance from here. It is small, and belongs to the
district of Makongo Kaségu, whom I visited on my first
Uganda expedition, and who lives about two miles from here ;
he is, however, too old to pay me a visit. Kapéki, where we
passed the night on our outward journey, between Kahura
and Guru, lies adjacent to Kitira. Along this road there is
a bush which frequently grows about six feet high, and has
woolly verbena-like leaves and blue blossoms like those of the
salvia; the whole plant exhales a most pleasant perfume.* At
5 P.M. a man unexpectedly arrived with my bedding. Any-
one who has slept in Central Africa for five nights on a bare
ankareb, and has had some experience of our mosquitos, will
readily realise my joy ; my only goods now missing were the
linen, cooking utensils, and my store of coffee! - The following
morning a very short march brought us to Khor Ergugu ; we
passed through fine park land, where on the short turf we
noticed some Pentastemon,t blue Lathyrus, white convolvulus,
and dark red and silver white Malyvs, with bright red eyes.
The first part of Khor Ergugu was quickly passed, as the water
was only knee-deep and no grass was growing in it The
second part proved more difficult, as the water was now breast-
high, and enormous quantities of grass prevented us from gain-
ing a firm footing, so we took fully twenty minutes to wade
through it. A quarter of an hour's march through a fine wood
brought us at last to Mréko's headquarters, Kahura.

In order to enlarge his house, Mréko, a younger brother of
Nyamisore (the queen-mother), had caused all ornamental trees

* This bush is probably a species of Coleus. -G. S.
+ This genus does not exist in Central Africa. -G. S.

132 RUBAGA TO MROLL

which had adorned his estate to be cut down, so thé chief charm
of the landscape now consists of an enormous straw fence ten
feet high, which surrounds Mréko's huts! - He himself, an old
acquaintance, came at once to welcome me, assigned us houses,
loaded us with sweet potatoes and bananas, and, at my request,
immediately sent off some of his people to inquire after my
missing loads. In two hours I received nearly all of them,
and before sunset I was in happy possession of them all. The
manioc plants I had brought with me had not suffered, but
the little coffee-trees were withered. The inhabitants of the
village, who knew me of old, brought me small presents of
bananas, eggs, and sweet potatoes, so that we could hold high
festival that day. As I was to be provided with fresh porters
here, three days slipped by, as I had foreseen they would, before
we could even dream of collecting the men. I utilised the
hours which were free from rain by hunting and collecting, for
both of which pursuits this district is exceptionally well suited.
A visit to Mréko's hut, a nocturnal expedition, during which a
quantity of beautiful white honey was obtained from a hollow
tree, and the arrival of messengers from Mtésa bearing curious
letters from him, made the time pass quickly. One of my
Wanyoro porters disappeared soon after my arrival ; his rela-
tions are said to live in the neighbourhood, and it was generally
believed that he ran away to join them, but I did not believe
this story.

At last, on Monday, Mréko's big drum brought the porters
together, and half an hour later we were on our way, this
time in possession of all our luggage. Shortly before our
departure, Matongali Kasamiriri arrived from Rubaga with
friendly letters from Hamis-ben-Halfin and Mesaud-ben-
Salimin, chiefs of the Zanzibar colony in Uganda. Many
sweet-scented mimosas, with splendid red blossoms, and quan-
tities of euphorbias grew on the low grass, but the day's _
journey was again impeded by much water and mud. Real
acacia woods are to be found here, which, on account of their
light foliage and their many bare branches full of white thorns,
appeared from a distance as if shrouded in mist.

The miserable little village of Demba, quite close to Mréko's
zeriba, was chosen for our halting-place, in order to give the

AN ATTACK BY THE WANYORO. 133

Waginda porters an opportunity of returning once more to
their huts, and of completing the preparations for their journey.
As I had obtained possession of a large number of cattle in
Mréko's district, all my men, as well as the Waginda, fared
exceedingly well, being provided with enormous rations of
meat. It is the custom both in Uginda and also in Unyéro,
for the head of an ox, slaughtered on the journey, to fall to
the share of the drummer who invariably precedes the caravan.
Another day was wasted in Demba, as news from Mtésa was
expected. My missing Wanyoro porter turned up again safe
and sound, which was a good thing, for we were now on the
frontier of Kabréga's territory, and his people are hostile.
This was proved by an attack on our porters who went to fetch
water, and only escaped by the intervention of their comrades.
The huts here swarm with small grey ticks (in Kiginda and
Kinyoro, bibbo), which are much dreaded by the natives ; they
are also very numerous in Mrali.

As the expected letters did not arrive, we started early
the next morning, our road leading us over damp black mould.
A very striking change is noticeable in the vegetation here;
the tender green plants, abounding in sap, had been left
behind, and we entered upon a region of stiff-leaved, hard-
wooded plants, of which more than half are Leguminosse. Owing
to the fires, most of the trees were crippled. -A great many
red ant-hills appeared here on the grey soil, which perhaps for
nine months of the year is under water (the whole of this dis-
trict is inundated by Khor Ergugu). A fine buck (Tragelc-
phus scriptus) sprang up quite near us and crossed our path ;
this is said to forebode good luck, whilst if a buffalo or a dwarf
antelope crossed the way it would bode ill. Small cultivated
patches indicated the neighbourhood of a village, which indeed
we soon reached ; it is called Sagara. The inhabitants, Kabréga's
people, only reluctantly provided us with huts; they even
declined to lend us waterpots, although we offered them pre-
sents; they subsequently entirely evacuated the place.

At about eight o'clock in the evening shots were fired, and
a great din arose in the direction of Mréko's camp, which
was situated at a distance of about ten minutes from us. The
Wanyoro had attacked him! Leaving my men to watch the

134 RUBAGA TO MROLL

loads, I hastened thither, but when I arrived I found that quiet
had been restored, for the shots had frightened the Wanyoro,
who were only armed with spears.  Mréko had been sitting
with Kanagurba drinking banana wine, when suddenly about
twenty men sprang out from the grass, throwing spears, with-
out, however, doing any harm.

On account of light rain in the morning the porters could
scarcely be persuaded to move. Beautiful undulating park
land, with here and there water puddles, stretched on all sides,
until, after a three hours' march, we reached a deserted banana
wood called Gumrisi, where our leaders decided to halt for
the day. I had noticed on the way many tamarind-trees, a
sign that we were going northwards. - Mtésa's long-expected
messengers arrived at last, bringing me a letter from him
saying that Kanagurba was to accompany me to Khartum. I
was not greatly rejoiced at that, for Kanagurba is a very cross-
grained individual.

The next morning Mréko and his people were stirring very
early-they always camp apart from us-a sure sign that a long
march awaited us. The country we traversed is considerably
depressed below the general level, and bears distinct traces of
frequent inundations. . Hills and park land were varied by very
small fields. After crossing some high hills, we rested for a few
minutes by some rounded blocks of granite which were lying
in the way, and then pushing vigorously on, in five hours and
a half (the best march of the journey) we encamped at Kiotosi
(Speke's Kiratosi). I had scarcely built my straw hut, when
Mréko came to inform me that the next day we were to rest;
but, as I was afraid he wished to make reprisals for the attack
of the day before yesterday, I tried to induce him to proceed,
and after much persuasion succeeded. In the meantime one
of my Wanyoro porters, who had straggled, had been seized by
Kabréga's people and robbed of his load, but the Waginda,
who had joined us, pursued them, and we recaptured the load,
from which little was missing. The country slopes gently down
from here to Khor Ergugu. I have described the crossing of
the kAor before; this time it was successfully accomplished in -
an hour and a quarter, but there was not so much grass grow-
ing as at the point where we crossed previously ; unfortunately

BACK AT MRULL 133

my grey parrots were drowned here through the carelessness of
the porter. - Immediately after passing the we reached our
huts, but were tormented all night by millions of mosquitos,
and rejoiced when we left our tormentors behind us. The
stretch of country which lay before us, with its monotonous
woods and grass jungle, has been described before; sufficient
to say, that I was thankful when, after a frightfully fatiguing
march, our huts were built in the afternoon at Btuti, whence,
on the following day, we continued our journey to Mruli.

3. From MrOLI vii FauvyEr&a to MagUxgo.
(April 13 io 18, 1898.)

OX THE NILE TO FAUVERA-AT ANFINA's-NEW SCENERY-A TRIP ON THE
NILE NEAR FAUVERA-CONFIGURATION OF THE SOMERSET NILE-
CHARACTER OF VEGETATION ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER-AGRI-
CULTURE AT FAUVERA-A MARCH THROUGH A SEA OF GRASS-WITH
ANFiNA, THE ONLY GENTLEMAN-ANOTHER SEA OF GRASS-FORD OF
KHOR VARINGO-MANY MEN DOWN WITH FEVER.

As I had already traversed the road from Mrili to Fauvera by
land, I chose to go this time by water. I sent my goods and
the two soldiers (who had accompanied me to Uganda, and
who now requested permission to go with me to Lado) on in
advance in a large native canoe, but soon caught them up in
-a light European boat propelled by two sturdy rowers. 'The
mighty stream winds in curious curves between papyrus masses
often twelve feet high; its current is only made apparent by
the Pistias which float along near its banks. At first, the
northern bank of the river is covered by beautiful mimosas, but
soon their place is taken by whole woods of doléb palms ; these
palms are much smaller here than in the Shiluk country, but
their foliage is much denser, which fact is probably to be
ascribed to the difference of humidity in the atmosphere.
Tamarinds are also common here. The water has a yellowish-
green tint, and is hidden in many places by masses of floating

136 MRULLI TO MAGUNGO.

Pistias. - Crocodiles and hippopotami were seen here in great
numbers. We had hardly been half an hour upon our voyage,
when our light boat flew nearly half out of the water; an
enormous head popping up close by showed us whom we had
to thank for the blow.. The prospect of being thrown by a
sportive hippo down the throat of a crocodile is not pleasant.
Solitary mountain peaks were visible towards the south; the
southern bank of the river is covered by light wood, but the
papyrus fringe is all the more formidable. Our voyage con-
tinued without further incident; the light morning rain passed
off, but the sky remained clouded.

After a short rest on the bank, here rising to the exceptional
height of twenty feet, where a brood of Cercopithecus griseo-
viridis was noisily gambolling, we continued our voyage, much
enjoying the splendid effect which the dying glow of the sun,
the variegated tints of the evening, and the pale light of the
moon produced on the dark water, over which we glided noise-
lessly along under the shadow of dark papyrus walls. . About
an hour after sunset we arrived at Koch (Koki), where latterly
an agricultural station has been established, and promises well.
My night's quarters were soon arranged, as I had brought
all necessaries with me, and, owing to the foresight of the
soldiers, I even had sweet potatoes roasted in the ashes for my
supper. About midnight another boat arrived, the occupants
of which were all suffering from fever; notwithstanding this,
I despatched their boat early, in order to give them the benefit
of the cool morning hours, whilst I started later on, after a
visit from my old friend Rionga, well known to the readers of
Baker's books.

The river scenery continued much like that previously
described. Wide stretches of floating turf, consisting of Pistia,
Vallisneria, Ottelia, Potamogeton, &e., edge the papyrus growth.
On the land gigantic primeval trees are so thickly interwoven
by climbing plants that they present a front of smooth foliage.
Without an axe it is impossible to penetrate these woods, and
hey are haunted by leopards and beautifully marked pythons.

We landed, after a short voyage, on the high banks near the
station of Fauvera, which, owing to its bananas and fields,
makes a fine show. My floating hospital arrived somewhat

CHIEF ANFINA. 137

later. I was compelled to rest here for a few days until porters
arrived and my patients improved. The soil at Fauvera con-
sists of a white sand mixed with a yellowish clay, in which
_ sweet potatoes, durrah, and especially maize thrive splendidly.
I left here, for experimental purposes, white peas from Kardgwa,
and seeds of Carica papaya from Uginda, and I shall send
wheat from Khartim. The vegetation here is very Inxuriant,
but my stay was unfortunately spoilt by the numerous mos-
quitos, and still more by the frogs. The latter are found in
the river in great numbers, as also large Protopterus anneec-
tens (Owen).

Rows of hills run obliquely across the extensive park land,
which stretches out on the other side of Fauvera as far as
Dedng, our first halting-place on the road to Kiroto. - Here and
there the whole wealth of African vegetation unfolded itself,
but human beings were nowhere to be seen. The little village
of Dedng is surrounded by a thin wood, in which masses of the
red blossoms of the Canna indica are to be seen, as well as
aloes and red passion flowers.

The next part of the route, from Deing to Kijaja, where
Rionga's people received us kindly, can only be described as a
perfect sea of grass. These marches through the grass are
very laborious, as one has literally to cut one's way through,
especially when travelling with sick men, as we were. White
Crinum filled the air with its odour; it thrives best under
the shade of high trees. We were only able to make very
short marches, for the men could hardly walk, and I had no
riding animals for them; I was therefore compelled to halt
next at Anfina's zeribe, Panyatoli, which lay a little to the
north-west. There we met Anfina himself, and he again con-
firmed the good impression which he has always made upon
me. He is the only Negro gentleman whom I have met with
during four years' journeys in this territory, Mtésa not ex-
cepted. Among the spectators who crowded round us were
several Wichwézi sorceresses, who are to be found in the house-
hold of every independent chief; their appearance is most
striking, owing to their long curls of hair entwined with
coloured cotton threads and their bead ornaments. - The people
are mostly clad in skins, but bark cloths are also to be seen.

138 MROLL TO MAGUNGO.

In Uginda the latter are chiefly worn ; in Unyoro and Usoga
the former. - The huts are large, roomy, and, like all Unyoro
huts, dome-shaped, but without pinnacles; in the inside they
are divided into two parts. I slept in a somewhat larger
square hut, and quite a crowd of people wanted to take up their
quarters with me; it cost me ever so much trouble to make
them understand that their company was not desired. When
milked, the cow's udders are washed with urine. In the en-
closure big liver-coloured dogs were running about, and a
large he-goat (it measured twenty-five inches at the withers).
This goat seemed to be a privileged animal, for it was allowed
to knock people down with impunity.

Beyond this place the country became more and more
hilly, the ridges of the hills being covered with high grass,
and the swampy valleys overgrown with date palms; the doléb
palm is never seen. It appears to be very uncertain in the
choice of its habitat. We pressed on through the high grass
with great difficulty, being scratched and pricked on all sides,
so that, after a three hours' march, we joyfully greeted the little
village of Kituanga, where tolerable drinking-water was obtained.
The few huts adjoined a neglected banana grove, and were sur-
rounded by small fields of durrah and sweet potatoes. Thence
a stiff march brought us to the village of Kokmiria, where was
some water lying between granite and gneiss ledges.

As a long march lay before us, we broke up our camp early.
There is not much to be said about these marches, for the
scenery was almost invariably the same. It consisted of high
grass, thin woods, and low swampy ground. Jebel Geisi was
visible for a moment through the grass, when the sun had dis-
persed the morning mist. - Crossing several watercourses, one
of which was fringed by a splendid wood, we arrived about
midday at our station of Kiroto. This station has been pre-
viously described. On the road I noticed upon a number
of fig-trees quantities of broad-leaved psenudo-parasitic plants _
(Platycerium ?), just like those I had previously observed in
Kabréga's district. - Owing to the persistent rain, I was unable
to utilise my stay at Kiroto for making collections, although
it abounds in material. ;

After a day's stay at Kiroto we turned back towards

EACK AXT ALBERT, 139

Magiingo, choosing a road to the north of that by which
we previously travelled. At Magingo the steamer Nyansa
was to await us. A very steep road leads from Kiroto to
Khor Varingo, and is rendered the more laborious by the
numerous little watercourses which run across it, and the large
reed thickets. The strong current of the muddy kkor-the
same we had previously passed lower down-reached up to
our knees. Leaving, to the left, a little village, we passed on
through park land to another k/or, the bed of which lay at
a considerable depth, and its water reached up to our waists.
We halted for the night at Kubia, and hastened to erect our
huts, for the rain threatened. The rain always seems to
travel with us. In Kabréga's territory, in Uganda, and here
too, we experienced incessant rain, and, to add to our dis-
comfort, this time all my men were ill. Marching in the
cool of the morning is very pleasant, but generally involves
a cold bath, because the abundant dew on the long grass
comes down in showers upon the traveller. Upon this
occasion there followed a bath proper as we waded knee-deep
across the numerous watercourses.

The gentle descent towards Magungo began here, although
it was as yet imperceptible: : We passed the night at
Kangara, where one of my men fell ill with smallpox, and
the next morning we crossed the ridge of hills which runs
across the road, and from the summits of which a good
view is afforded of isolated mountains lying towards the
south-west. A small village called Fejau lay at the base of
the hills opposite. We passed it rapidly, in order to prevent
the porters from plundering the deserted huts. I was, how-
ever, compelled to remain the night at Usonda, not much
farther on, as my patients could hold up no longer.

A sharp march of three hours over very hard red clay soil
_was next accomplished. The condition of the ground proved
that the kharif, with its rain, had not yet reached this district,
_ but the blooming Terminalias and Combretas indicated its near
approach,. - A pool in which we had hoped to find some water
only contained a little mud. One more ascent and we saw
at last the mountains on the western shores of the Albert
Lake and its shining waters. From this point the slope of

 

140 AN EXCURSION To LUL.

the ground was very perceptible, Our proximity to the
water was indicated by doléb palms and Calotropis. Another
hour's march brought us to the village of Bligi, where the
people were obliging enough to bring us the longed-for water. |
After permitting the men a short rest, we again started, and
in half an hour arrived at Magiingo; so Magiuingo is at the
beginning and the end of these few notes.

 

4. Ax Excursion to LUr, on THE WESTERN SHorE or THE
ALBERT LAKE

MOUNTAIN SYSTEM NEAR DUFILE-THE MANUFACTURE OF SALT-HUTS
FOR GHOSTS-FOUNDATION OF THE STATION OF WADELAI-DRESS OF
THE ALOR (KOCHE)-WILD WATER-MELONS-THE FAUNA OF MAgUxGgo
-MESSENGERS FROM MTESA-CROSSING THE LAKE-THE COUNTRY
NEAR MAHAGI-ARCHITECTURE IN THE LOR COUNTRY-HOUSEHOLD
UTENSILS-MAGIC ALOKES-OCCUPATION OF THE WOMEN-AGRICUL-
TURE-GOATS AND SHEEP-MIGRATION OF THE SHfLUK TRIBES To
THE LAKE-DIVISIONS OF THE LOR COUNTRY-THE COUNTRY OF THE
wEST OF LUR-THE DISTRICTN BETWEEN MAHAGLI AND WADELAI-A
CURIOUS BREED OF GOATS-MOUNTAINS BEHIND MAHAGI-THE ALUR
OF MAHAGI-THEIR CUSTOMS AND DRESS-ARMS-THE FAUNA OF
MAHAGI

 

ArtgRouGgx the season was far advanced (November 1879),
the river was still high when we steamed southwards in the
Khedive. 'The steamer was put together by Sir S8. Baker's
engineers at Gondokoro; afterwards it was taken to pieces
again and transported overland to Dufilé, where it was rebuilt.
The mountain masses of Jebel Kuku and Meto approached
so near to the western bank of the river just south of Dufilé
that their position in regard to each other was distinctly seen.
Two almost parallel ranges run from the Niambara mountains ;
the foremost range is known by the name of Jebel Nyefo just
behind Kiri, but near Muggi it receives the name of Nyiri,
and from there, flanking the road which runs to the south,
it ends near Dufilé, where it is called Jebel Kuku. The other
ridge, of which the northern part is as yet unexplored, appears

a..

UP THE BAHR-ELJEBEL, I41

to form the western boundary of Fajeln, and also ends near
Dufilé, where it is called Jebel Meto. - The transverse valley
lying between these ridges is inhabited in its southern and
western parts by Madi, who till the soil, whilst Bari, who are
rich in herds, occupy the north-east.

Floating grass and reeds indicated rain in the south, while
frequent thunder and lightning in the east and south-east
confirmed the fact. A prolonged stay, in order to ship men
and gather wood, gave me time for short excursions on the east
river-bank below Bora; the Midi villages were, however, very
isolated, and searcely any information could be obtained from
the shy natives. My ornithological spoils, however, proved
important, for, in addition to Lobivanellus senegalensis and a
bee-eater (Merops Bullockit), I obtained a fly-catcher and an
undetermined species of Thamnolsa. - Siluroids were the only
fishes I found.

Cold and misty weather somewhat retarded our departure.
Soon, however, the sun broke through the thick mist, and the
villages nestling between green fields in the folds of the hills,
from which columns of smoke rose into the sky, formed,
together with occasional stretches of wood, a very attractive
scene. Salt, which is otherwise very rare in the Madi and
Shiluk districts, is obtained everywhere from the ashes of
dried grass which is heaped up and burned. A species of
yellow sand is found in many places near Dufilé; it has a
strongly alkaline taste, and from it also salt is obtained by
washing and evaporation, but owing to its sharp and bitter
taste it is not much liked.

After passing Bora, where last year's floods had done much
damage, we found that the almost impassable grass barrier
which had existed in the river had been swept away. Thus,
we reached Wadelai's district at 2.45 P.M. A new station is
to be founded there, if the chief gives his permission. The
length of time occupied by our journey from Dufilé to Wadelai,
deducting all delays, was thirty-one hours fifteen minutes, but
as our speed was very irregular, the exact distance could not be
ascertained. A low ridge of hills runs close by the river;
from the top of it we obtained a view of an extensive undulating
plain, slightly rising towards the west, in which small zertbas

142 ANX EXCURSION TO LUR.

were scattered, surrounded by banana groves and numerous
plantations of sesame and sweet potatoes. 'The whole country
has a very homely look, and this impression is enhanced by _
the obliging and kindly manners of the inhabitants. As
Widelai's village is situated at some distance from here, we
had to wait until messengers had been sent to him. The river,
dotted over by many reed islands, is very broad. On the cast
bank a herd of thirty or forty elephants was peacefully grazing,
and here there was a broad fringe of rushes. Close by the
bank the depth of the water is 114 feet; a little farther,
about 48 feet. Sounding showed that the bottom of the river
was composed of thick grey clay, containing large quantities
of vegetable detritus and a great number of small snails; we
collected specimens of the latter.

In the meantime a brisk traffic had sprung up on the bank,
wood for the steamer, sweet potatoes, gourds, bananas, and
fowls being exchanged for glass beads. We visited the little
villages without hindrance. They consist of compounds con-
taining ten or twelve small dome-shaped huts with porched
entrances, which latter are «often seen in Unyoro., Very
clean receptacles for corn, covered and calked with red clay,
and with a raised handle on either side, stand on wooden
frames between the huts. Several miniature huts are dedicated
to the spirits, but stand empty. In the centre of the village
a small roof raised on posts marks a grave where the blood of a _
goat is occasionally offered to the dead. Frames for drying
sesame were heavily laden with bundles of it. 'The country is
adorned by many high trees, which shelter a large number of
birds; among them I noticed the goshawk (Astur polyzonus),
Apizaétus occipitalis, another yellowish brown hawk, sunbirds
(Nectarinia pulchella), the common widow-bird, still in full
feather, many weaver-birds, and a species of pipit. A mes-
senger from the chief came late in the evening with a large
tusk of ivory as a present. He was commissioned to inquire
whether my intentions were good or bad, and having been
sufficiently enlightened on this point, he returned with presents
both for the chief and for himself.

The mornings at this season of the year are very misty. It'
was only to-day (November 17) that I was able to take a sight

wWADELATS DISTRICT. 143

of the sun; it gave . Gimoro, "the right" or foster
brother of chlef Wadelai, arrived to visit me, accompmmed by
3600 Negroes, and he also brought me a tusk. He is a strong,
mtelhgent looking man. Gleeu tendrils were twined round h1s
smoothly shorn head his arms were covered with beautiful
iron ornaments, and hls dress consisted of goat-skins hung
from the shoulder. After he had received presents of beads
cloth, and copper, he told me that Widelai himself was unable
to come because he was too stout to walk. The kuftaen I had
sent him on the previous evening was too tight, for, said he,
«" when he sits a child could stand upon his paunch." A long
palaver with him led to a satisfactory conclusion, and I received
permission to form a station here, after promising to keep
my soldiers well in hand. Whilst the people acceded to my
request to bring wood for the steamer, I had an opportunity
of inspecting them closely. 'The whole district of Widelai is
called Koche, This is pronounced by the Shuli and Wanyoro
Koshe, which has led to the word Koshi figuring on Baker's
map.

This district forms one of the many subdivisions of the
large country of Inir or Alur, which, from the southern boundary
of the Midi district, stretches to an unknown distance towards
the south, whilst the Bahr-el-Jebel and the Albert Lake form its
eastern boundary, and Inibari, as well as a number of entirely
unknown countries, such as Léndu, border it on the west. The
language of the Wadelai, or rather the Koche tribe, is the
Aldri, probably a dialect of the Shuli. I shall have an oppor-
tunity of discussing the country and language later on. The
people are a handsome race, mostly of middle height, in colour
black, with a reddish-brown tinge, and they have beautiful
teeth and small feet. They wear the hides and skins of oxen
and goats, and sometimes those of dwarf antelopes ; these are
fastened over the right shoulder. Bark cloths brought from
Unyoro are only rarely seen. Though little attention is paid
to dress (the skins worn were mostly torn), great care is
expended on ornaments and painting. All kinds of frisures
obtain ; the wigs and cowrie head-dresses of the eastern Shuli
district, the towering head-dresses of the western Ladngo, as
well as spiral tresses and corkscrew curls. Many I saw had dyed

144. ~ , AN EXCURSION TO LUR.

their hair dark red. The painting was still more grotesque.

One belle had painted her legs grey, with red stripes, and placed _

on each cheek a bright red spot. The lower lips were pierced,
and generally contained a long straw stalk. The following
ornaments were noted : iron ornaments of all kinds (iron beads
excepted), ivory rings, necklaces of teeth, long conical brass
ear-rings, and half-moons made of brass. Gorgets appear to be
very popular, wide at the bottom, narrowing at the top; brass
and copper seem to be rare. I could, of course, learn little
about habits and customs during so short a stay.

Considerable intercourse exists between the Shiuli on the
eastern bank of the Nile and the people here. Fatiko can be
reached from here vig Fagiki and Fabo in three days. A
march of six or seven days to the west leads to Lnibari, beyond
which lies Kalika. - It is said that a large river exists in the
south-west, but no one has seen it; branches from the Bahr-
el-Jebel to the west certainly do not exist. Our stay here
was unfortunately too short- only a few hours-to allow
of excursions. The enormous number of flies was remark-
'able ; they appeared to be the common house-flies, and in the
evenings heaps of greenish flies could be swept together on
deck.

At ten A.M. the aneroid marked 27.70 in. (temp. 87.5° Fahr.)
Somewhat later we continued our journey. From this point
the voyage was less impeded by floating vegetation, and the
accumulation of reeds near the bank disappeared ; we passed
many villages. - Hippopotami are rarer than they are farther to
the north, probably on account of the deep water. The only
birds I saw were the heron, which abounds everywhere, the
darter, and the cormorant; the pied kingfisher (Ceryle rudis),
generally so common, becomes searce towards the south. - After
a slow voyage of five hours seventeen minutes, against a
very strong current, we anchored near the foot of a chain of
hills, in order to visit another chief, - Unfortunately, after we
had climbed the hills to his village, which is situated behind
them, all the people had fled, so a dragoman had to be sent to
them as an ambassador. - Murkak/kas (grindstones) and talabun,
ready to be ground, lay before each of the ten small huts
which I found here, besides which I noticed quantities of water-

AT MAGUNGO,. 143

melons, which grow here in great abundance, small patches
of ground covered with a species of Gynandropsis, many
sweet potatoes, and sesame. All the huts were divided by a
partition into two rooms. - After we had persuaded one of the
fugitives to return, he promised to call his chief. The language,
dress, and arms of these people are exactly identical with those
in Wadelat's country. * This district is called Farokéto. To
Koche is said to be a distance of six or seven hours, to Mahagi
eight hours. Next morning Chief Rokéto sent us a refusal ; he
was offended at our not having gone direct to him.

We continued our journey early, hugging the western bank,
on which many villages lie scattered, and where euphorbias
grow in remarkable quantities. The pressure of the current
seems to wear away the eastern bank very rapidly, for on the
western bank long stretches of fresh alluvial soil lie bare, on
which vegetation is only just beginning to take root. _ It is very
remarkable that neither geese nor ducks are to be met with in
this district; on the other hand, numerous herds of antelope
abound (Antilope ellipsiprymnma and A. senegalensis). - Over the
lake itself, which we soon reached, a little sterna flew, unfor-

_tunately beyond our reach,. The osprey (Halicetus vocifer) is
one of the commonest and prettiest birds in this region.

We reached Magiingo, where we are to make a longer stay,
at 2.40 PM. Our voyage from Dufilé to Magiungo occupied
thirty-one hours fifty-eight minutes, which tallies well with
former journeys of thirty-five hours and thirty-four hours
forty-six minutes. If we reckon an average rate of four miles

an hour, the distance would be about 128 miles. Four hours
twenty-eight minutes were occupied in steaming from Farokéto
to Magiingo, on account of the strong current. The aneroid read
on the lake 27.62 in. (88° Fahr.), on our arrival at Magiingo
| 27.56 in. (90.5° Fahr.) -I devoted my stay at Magiingo as far
'as possible to making collections, though the want of ammunition
'and spirit for preserving specimens, as well as other necessary
to the block in the river we had been for nearly
«two years without communication with Khartim-and also
'the lack of writing-paper, somewhat frustrated my labours ;
imany valuable and beautiful things, however, were brought

»together. The zertbe placed at my disposal lay outside the
K

146 AN EXCURSION TO LUE.

station. It contained a splendid sycamore, the thick foliage
of which harboured numerous creatures Besides the birds
which were brooding there (Spermestes cucullatus and sweet-
voiced grosbeaks, COrithagra musica), tree snakes, often over
three feet in length, and up to eighteen inches in girth,
were crawling about, as well as chameleons. In the
enclosure, wagtails (Motacilla flava, var. griseocapilla, and M.
vidua) were singing persistently, and making war upon one
another. - Adders were also numerous ; a specimen we caught
measured six feet in length and four inches in girth. All the
woodwork was covered with a species of blue-and-white-striped
Cerambyx. - Several wounded males bore testimony to violent
encounters with one another. I caught numerous insects,
chiefly Lamellicornias, and Oryctes mastcormis, apparently a
cosmopolitan, was very common. - In a series of pools close by
the river, scorpions were swimming about-Nectodonts, Dytis-
cus, and lower forms-but unfortunately, owing to the want
of preserving fluid, they had to be left where they were. 4

The neighbouring wood yielded a rich collection of birds,
and many new specimens, as far as East Africa, at least, is
concerned, may be found amongst them. There too I
succeeded, to my great joy, in finding a colony of magnificent
Coryphegnathus albifrons, and I took its nest and eggs. Some
years this bird is common at Lado, as the many specimens
I have collected prove; in other years it entirely disappears.
I also procured the nest and fledgelings of a barbet (Pogomor-
hynchus bidentatus) from a high tree, while swarms of weaver-
birds were absolutely innumerable, and five species enriched
my collection.

An excursion to Kiroto took up several days without
yielding any zoological results, although some ethnological
objects were obtained. The first thunderstorm was recorded
on December 6th; it was preceded by a strong S.S.W. wind ;
shortly before it broke over us the aneroid rose to 27.66 in.

The arrival of a party of Waginda, who brought me
presents from King Mtésa and his prime minister, Katikiro, as
well as letters from them, from the Arabs, and from the French
and English missionaries residing in that country, was a very
pleasant diversion. As a funny incident, I may mention that,

ON LAKE ALBERT. 147

in answer to a written request to send moe pots containing a
fow coffee-plants Mtésa forwarded a bundle of dry brfmches
four to six feet in length. In conversation with the men, the
name of Musaba was mentioned as denoting the land to the
north-east of Uginda ; I had previously heard this name, but
I am unable to identify it, unless it be the Masiba to the
south-east of Mrali.

After concluding my official duties at Magiingo, where a
number of meteorological and hypsometrical observations were
made, it was time to think of our departure. A comparison
of the compass on land and on the steamer showed a great
difference; the reading on the land gave 344° (N. being
360°); that on the steamer was 159°; so that this difference
must be taken into account in the construction of the map.

A violent thunderstorm delayed our departure, but at 6.43
AM. the steamer Khedive carried us towards the lake. As
a rule, the passage across the lake to Mahagi is made after
midnight, as from 9 A.M. strong breezes from the S. and
S.S.W. sweep over the lake. Following a nearly westerly
direction, we quickly steamed beyond the river proper, which
has been very well described by Colonel Mason. At 7.10
AM. we passed the doléb palms which form a landmark
here, and then for some time hugged the land to the N.W., on
account of the strong wind. We then shaped our course to
the S.S.W., towards the mountains, and then parallel to them.
During the first part of our journey, the level tract extending
for half a mile to one mile and a half to the foot of the hills
is overgrown with grass and some few trees, but farther on it

is covered in parts by beautiful woods, and many large villages
are seen near to each other. The lake was rather rough, and
its water of a dark sea-green colour. We only noticed a few
swifts and darters; much floating Pistia was being driven by
| the wind from the south ; the eastern shore was entirely hidden
| by mist. At 10.55 aM. we reached our station, Mahagi, which
'is not situated on the point designated by Colonel Mason
\ Mahagi, but three and a half or four hours farther to the north,
sand is, properly speaking, misnamed, as Mahagi is really the
'name of a village to the south. The landing was somewhat
' difficult, owing to shallow water. When sailing along the

148 AN EXCURSION TO LUR.

western shore the soundings only gave us fifteen to twenty feet; |
they proved that the bottom is mostly covered with deep black _
vegetable mould, whilst here it is of a very tough reddish clay.
The voyage from Magiingo to this place occupied four hours |
nine minutes, of which twenty-eight minutes were required
between Maguingo and the doléb palms, that is to say, on the
river proper. On leaving Magiingo the aneroid read 27.62 in.
(temp. 72° Fahr.) Here it gave 27.56 in. (75.1° Fahr.) The
little station of Mahagi is surrounded by luxuriant cornfields;
behind it rise steep high mountains in a long chain, having on
the whole a direction from N.E. to S.W. The high Jebel Eriku
closes the panorama towards the south, whilst towards the east
the mist-covered lake appeared to have no bounds. What
lies towards the west behind the mountains is only known
from native reports. f

Toa, a large village belonging to Chief Sonda, lies near the
station, and thither my first excursion was directed. The huts
are built as in Unyoro, by constructing an almost dome-shaped
skeleton of pliable branches and rods. - This is supported from
within by a number of straight posts, generally standing in
rows, and the front part is raised and arched over, forming a
porch. The whole is then covered with a thick layer of long
grass, coming down to the ground. - These huts, if large enough,
leave nothing to be desired as regards neatness, comfort, and
coolness ; they can be divided into separate compartments by
reed walls, and furnished with sleeping-places, &e. The fire-
place is almost always in the middle; the bed for the master
of the house is placed in a corner, a kind of fixed bedstead.
being made, of short posts, with cross pieces of wood, over
which are spread hides and bark cloths. - Gourd vessels of all
shapes and dimensions, black earthen vessels of a round and -
usually hemispherical form, and mats of straw and bast form a
the only furniture. - Here and there bundles of seed, tobacco,
and pulse are hung up, neatly wrapped in broad leaves. Be-.
side the chief's huts, which are distinguished by their Greater
size and a smooth level fore-court for dancing, made of cow- >
dung and mud, there usually stand one or two diminutive empty
huts, the only preceptible religious symbols. Trees covered |
with hunting trophies are not to be found, but here and there

miten tso Ila ie OAL Arm t ither ron al eon asana et

MAHAGI STATION. 149

an aloe with white-striped leaves is grown, which in Uganda
and Unyoro is always employed in incantations. - The granaries
are usually cylindrical, but the lower segments of some are
hemispherical and rest on a stand. Their covers, which are
movable, are of the usual shape. Numbers of closely woven,
very roomy, skittle-shaped weir-baskets and fish-spears betoken
an active pursuit of fishery, while the absence of hunting
trophies indicates no great love of sport. The weapons we
saw were lances, a sort of broad-bladed axe with a sharp spike
projecting from the back, and knives of various forms; speci-
mens of each of them were collected. Every woman carries a
small crescent-shaped knife attached to her girdle by a leather
thong.

All the women were diligently engaged in household work,
one of their duties being to beat and clean the freshly gathered
eleusine corn with a wooden mallet or club. Besides fetch-
ing water and cooking, weeding and carrying away the rubbish,
reaping and bringing in the harvest, and the manufacture of all
kinds of crockery, pipe-bowls included, devolve solely upon the
women. 'The men build the houses, till the fields, fish and
hunt, milk the cows and goats, and smoke. A singular kind -
of pipe is much used ; a very long stem has a slit made in the
side at its lower end, into which a green leaf rolled into the
shape of a funnel is pushed and is filled with tobacco. A. fresh
leaf is used for each pipeful, and the quantity of tobacco used
each time is but small. Tobacco is largely grown in the
mountains, and is brought here to be exchanged for dried fish.

About ten minutes' walk to the south of this village the
lake is joined by Khor Erra, a never-failing stream of cold
water. 'The high grass near this khor is the haunt of a rare
crake, Ortygometra egregia, a bird extremely like the small
waterhen in its habits. All the land between the station and
this village, to the south of which lie three other zertbas sub-
ject to the same chief, was very well cultivated, and this year's
second crop of durrah was just ripe. Maize, red and white
durrah, eleusine, sesame, a little tobacco, a kind of cucumber,
and near the station bamia (Hibiscus esculentus, called wéka in
the Sudan), and ground nuts have been planted here. Bananas
are not found, except, perhaps, in the more sheltered side valleys.

150 AX EXCURSTON TO LUR.

Fig-trees, planted and cultivated everywhere in the east, are
not found here. - The few bark cloths occasionally seen come
from Unyoro, and only people in good circumstances can afford
to buy them. Salt also is brought from the same country,
though some is obtained here by burning grass and washing
the ashes. Saline earth is said to exist farther northwards, in
the district of Chief Boki. The only domestic animals visible
were sheep and goats; the cows were perhaps out grazing
with neighbours in the mountains. The goats are fine, slim,
tall animals, but rather short in the body, and short-haired ;
the sheep are large, and resemble the thick-tailed breeds of the
lower Nile (Sudan). No dogs were to be seen.

The language is very similar to that of the Shuli and Shefal,
which is spoken in the neighbourhood of the rapids of Karima
and Tiida, and it is quite identical with the idiom spoken in
Wadelai's and Rokéto's districts. _ As many of the people here
speak Kinyoro, I was able to make myself understood without
the aid of interpreters, and in spite of the limited time, I
managed to compile a small vocabulary, which reveals the
almost complete conformity of this language with the Shuli.
I tried afterwards, in Fatiko, to compile a Shuli vocabulary also,
and have already alluded to the great similarity existing
between this language and that of the Shiluk, which, however,
is only known to me from the small Jur (Shiluk) vocabulary
in Dr. Schweinfurth's excellent collection. The hypothesis of
a great Shiluk migration to the south, which I venture to put
forth, is chiefly supported by the really surprising similarity
of the languages, manners, and customs of the three peoples
above mentioned, and is the more probable because Dr. Schwein-
furth reports the existence of members of the Shiluk family
in the Bahr-el-Ghazal territory, so that their presence here is
not surprising, nor is this an isolated instance. - The Shuli them-
selves say that their forefathers came from the north. It is to |
be hoped that later and more competent inquirers will succeed
in throwing a clearer light on this most interesting subject.

Here also the name Inir or Aliur was given as a general
name to the country south of the Madi district as far as and |
beyond the true Mahagi marked on Mason's map, and the |
district here is named M'svar or Kasvir (probably Mason's a

%

NATIVE INFORMATION. 13F

Nursvar). Chief Makambo's land, Mahagi, lies to the south,
then M'songua, Magiingo, and Kafatmm, where Liv ends
Northwards along the lake and river the districts succeed one
another as follows :-Chief Boki's country, Fanyumori; Chief
Okello's country, Fanégoro; Chief Rokétto's country, Farokeéto ;
the country of Fabongo (just now without a chief); Chief
Matum's country, Foquite ; and lastly Chief Widelai's country,
Koche,. These are the very names which Baker gives on his
map for the country to the north of the Victoria Nile, near its
mouth, and therefore I can only suppose that the men he
interrogated did not understand him correctly, with regard to
the river at any rate, or that he incorrectly interpreted the bad
Negro Arabic in use here. Had I only heard the names once,
I should have kept silence, but they were repeatedly confirmed
during our marches by land from Mahagi to Wiadelai. The
existing maps of the upper Nile abound in so many errors,
that it seems desirable to prepare a more correct one of that
part of the river which lies between the Victoria Lake and the
Sobat. - For the present I will only refer to Kidi, which ought
to be called Lingo, and to Chippendall's route, which, like a
chameleon, assumes a new appearance with every map that is
published. *

From the hills in this neighbourhood, Chief Arera's country,
Nyelea, can be seen, beside a lofty mountain of the same name ;
from there due west lies Areja's country, Angal, adjoining on
the north the district Jabakot. Javulé, which comes next, is
four days' journey across, and extends to some mountains, from
which a large river flows down to the west. I give this infor-
mation exactly as I have received it from the lips of Negroes,
and will now check their statements by the following facts.
Soldiers without impedimenta reach Wadelai from Mahagi in
two days' rapid marching; they sleep in Farokéto, which is
about half-way. Cattle despatched from Mahagi station reach
Wadelai in five days, travelling each day from sunrise to mid-
day. Therefore the distance between these two stations,
following the lake and the river, may be assumed to be fifty

* Sheets 2 and 8 of E. G. Ravenstein's Map of Eastern Equatorial Africa,
published by the Royal Geographical Society, will be found to present the whole
of the information available at the time it was published (1883).

152 AN EXCURSION TO LUR.

miles. No large streams have to be crossed along this route,
but near to Widelai two AAors flow to the main stream, having
water breast-high during the XAari/. - The most southerly one
is full of vegetation, and may be an old river-channel ; the
other one comes from the mountains in the west. From
Widelai to Dufilé the journey can only be made along the east
bank, because of the hostile Negroes (Midi). Many deep
ravines impede the traveller, but men without loads can traverse
the distance in three days' good marching.

The country between Mahagi and Waidelai is hilly, and shut
in towards the west by mountain ranges which are visible even
from the river; it is very thickly peopled, and very rich in
herds and flocks of all sorts. Actual woods do not exist, but
groups of splendid trees of all kinds are scattered over the
country. The large neat villages are exactly like those pre-
viously described, and the language, manners, and customs are
the same throughout the Lnir country.

From Mahagi station a road leads along the hills, then
entering a narrow valley and changing its direction from south-
west to west, it takes one in five hours to Nyelea, a very
populous district, where banana plantations exist in the valley
near to the kAhor. From that place I obtained a goat, which
differs from all other kinds found here by its long coat. The
hind-legs and head especially are so thickly covered with
long stiff hair that it drags on the ground, and the goat has to
shake its head in order to see. Only a few specimens are to
be found in this neighbourhood, but they are said to be much
more prevalent farther to the west. I have also seen the
same kind, with hair growing even more luxuriantly, in Uganda,
and procured some of the skins. They are brought to Uganda
from Usoga, where they are kept in small herds, raised sleeping-
places covered with grass being purposely made for them, so
that the hair may not be spoilt. It was difficult to obtain -
living specimens of them here, for the owners would not sell
them.

Three hours' march in a north-westerly direction over a
country abounding in high hills, covered with bushes, and
intersected by numerous deep kAors of icy water, take one |
to Chief Aguiri's land, Jabakot. One and a half hours more in _

A MOUNTAIN ASCENT. 133
a westerly direction, and the traveller is on the frontiers of
Lend, which country has not hitherto been visited by Euro-
peans. - From Jabakot, very high mountains are visible to the
west; to the north lies another mountain chain, which is said
to belong to Inibari. 'The direction of all the hors in the
country just described is easterly. Liri is spoken every where,
but another language is said to exist to the west.

An ascent of the mountains directly behind the station
Mahagi led to no good result. The foreground is, at the most,
a mile and a half broad, and consists of a very rich red or
coffee-brown vegetable mould, which might have been made
on purpose for crops. Here and there pieces of granite,*
blackened by weather, and blocks of mica appear. When we
left the station at 6.30 A.M., the aneroid read 27.60 in. at a
temperature of 75° Fahr. The ascent is extremely steep, and
is rendered more difficult by numerous fragments of stone and
long grass, where the foot is apt to slip; here and there we
had a pretty glimpse of the lake, which was unfortunately
covered, as usual, by a veil of mist. Along the verge of deep
ravines, with water rushing along below us, we gained the
top, after a hard climb; but only a plateau studded with many
little domes was visible, shut in to the west by the Nyelea
group, and to the south by the imposing heights of the Eriku.
To the north the mountain ridge extended in an unbroken line.
The small single elevations are usually separated from one
another by deep ravines. High grass and very sparsely scat-
tered trees, generally butter-trees (Butyrospermum) and tama-
rinds, grow on the hills and in the hollows, rich vegetation
only abounding where there is water. Numerous fox-coloured
baboons were barking among clumps of trees, the deserted
durrah fields supplying them with plenty of food. We passed
two smaller peaks (aneroid, 26.97 and 26.89 in.), and then
climbed the higher summit (aneroid, 26.78 in., temp. in shade
83.3° Fahr.), but it did not afford any view. The prevailing
rock is a light grey, very fine-grained granite, upon which
layers of mica often lie, quite in accordance with the general

* Gneiss should probably be read instead of granite in most cases, for, to the

best of my knowledge, no typical granite has yet been found among mineral speci-
_ mens brought from the farthest part of the upper Nile territory. -G. S.

124 AN EXCURSION TO LUE.

character of the country. Where the rock has been long ex-
posed to the sun and rain, it has assumed a colour varying
between chocolate-brown and black. - After a short rest we
started on our way back, and reached the station towards
noon (aneroid, 27.62 in., temp. 86.9° Fahr).

Meanwhile some of the neighbouring chiefs had arrived at
the station to pay me a visit, all of them dressed, like Kabréga's
men, in soft cow-hides, but not carrying large sticks, as do the
Wanyoro. - Their powerful figures were of medium height and
very black, some of them with artistic coiffures, others shorn
quite smooth; they were ornamented with brass and a few
copper rings, and they made a good impression by their modest
behaviour. They too call their whole country " Lniri." The
names Toru (south-east corner of the lake) and Usongara are
well known to them, and the names given above for the dis-
tricts of the surrounding country were fully confirmed by their
statements. - Between this country and Unyoro there was
formerly, it is said, constant communication, and a very active
traffic was carried on ; even now the chiefs here acknowledge
the supremacy of Kabléww the ruler of Unyoro. - Communi-
cation is accomplished by means of boats, which coast along
to the north, enter the river, and cross over it to get along the
other coast to Magiungo and Kibiro, where salt and iron are
bartered for Colobus skins. The people who now inhabit
Londvé, in Unyoro, told me, when I visited them, that their
fathers and forefathers came from the western side of the lake.
They are said to have been carried off from a district, A-Londi,
to the south and west, and to have been settled as slaves by
Kamridsi, Kabréga's father, in their present home, to which
they afterwards gave the name of their own country. They
practise cireumecision, which is very unusual among our tribes.

It was scarcely possible to make thorough inquiries about

the manners and customs of the Negroes here, owing to the

short space of time at my command and my other numerous
duties. Just as in Unyoro and Shuli, the four lower incisors
are extracted, or rather pushed out, at the age of puberty.
Tattooing with scars, which are produced by burning razor-
cuts or with acid, is common, especially on the temples——
where, also, in Unyoro scars are made by cauterisation-and_

"Te Coves

CUSTOMS OF THE LUR. 153

at the outer corners of the eyes, where they converge to a
centre.

Three cows and an ox, and also (if the suit be accepted
and the cows are not returned) two goats or sheep to be
killed at the marriage feast, are considered an equivalent for a
girl arrived at maturity. - The expense of the marriage feast is
borne by the bride's father. If the wife is barren, she may be
put away, in which case the father has to pay back the ox and
one of the cows, and his divorced daughter can be sold in
marriage again for half the above price. - Delivery, the division
of the navel cord, the washing of the child and anointing it
with butter and red clay (which is very dear here), and the
naming of the child are performed exactly as in Unyoro.

The clothing is rather primitive. Chiefs wrap themselves
in tanned cow-hides and antelope skins, the hair having been
scraped off, and the lower edge of the skin is often trimmed
with stripes of the white mane of the Colobus When
able to procure it, they dress in the coarser bark cloths of
Unyoro. Other men are generally covered with a goat's hide
knotted over the shoulder, but many have only a leather cover-
ing in front. The women wear a short tail behind of red
twisted cotton threads fastened to the girdle, and a cover-
ing of three fingers breadth in front.. Girls are, as a rule,
perfectly nude. The girdles are in all cases ornamented with
cowries or beads and with iron rings. Necklets made of
banana (Musa ensete) seeds, necklaces, arm-rings and anklets of
iron, brass, and copper (rare), ivory arm-rings, spirally rolled
brass wire covering the fore-arm like a coat-of-mail, and called
mula, roots on strings, and finger-rings of brass wire were all
the ornaments I noticed. It is strange that here, as well as
in Uganda and Unyoro, ear-rings are very rarely worn ; in fact,
piercing the ears is a thing almost unknown.

The dead are bewailed, and are buried full length in a grave
in the immediate neighbourhood of the huts. - Stones are laid.
upon the grave, and if the deceased was a chief, a small hut
is built over his place of burial, gifts of corn are laid within,
and a goat is slaughtered.

Bows and smooth iron arrows are carried as weapons; they
are often covered with a thick layer of poison, and carried in

156 AN EXCURSION TO LUR.

roughly made quivers of goat-skin. The spears have a very
small blade, fixed at the end of a long neck of iron. A kind
of coat-of-mail made of buffalo skin takes the place of a shield ;

a rectangular piece about forty inches long by fifteen inches |

broad, according to the man's size, and as thick as possible, is
fastened in front of the body and tied behind, the outside being
usually ornamented with bosses. When travelling, every Negro
carries a sort of knife, with a broad blade fixed into a piece of
wood ; it is used more for cutting down branches than as a
weapon. Boys often carry very pretty imitations of this weapon,
made entirely of wood. - In hunting, the weapons just mentioned
are used, as also traps, nets, and pitfalls. In fishing, they use
very large weir-baskets, nets, and large iron fishing-hooks.
The women carry in their girdles a small knife, with which
they reap.

It was difficult to make any zoological collections here, as the
tall grasses were being burnt down in the neighbourhood. A
gorgeous sight was presented, especially at night, by the
tongues of fire creeping up the hillsides, and the flaring up of
the flames wherever there was much dry grass lit up the lake
far out into the darkness; but the result was disastrous to the
animal and vegetable world. - One night the fire came so near
to our station that we were obliged to kindle another fire as
rapidly as possible in order to protect ourselves. It will be
easily seen that under such circumstances there could be no
thought of botanising. However, I obtained two pretty ferns
down by a river, and these I added, together with some mosses,
to a large collection of ferns I had already made in this
district.

Two species of baboons, and especially Colobus guereza, are
very common indeed. I was able in a very short time to shoot
six specimens of the latter, called here dalle. The chim-
panzee is said to be found a few hours to the south. Its
northern limit, here as in Unyoro, is identical with that of the
rattan palm, that is, about 2° N. lat. Of rare birds, I may
mention Peters's crake (Ortygometra egregia), which was seen in
covies of three to six individuals, running about like hens in
the grass near the watercourses. It is difficult to make it rise,
and it is most easily caught by snares; when caught, it shows

meses

PROCEED TO THE SOUTH. 137

fight and makes a snarling noise; its native name is dagga-
dagga. Of the common fowl and the half-breed, I obtained a
yellow-billed, yellow-footed francolin and a delicate, pretty
Turniz leburana, called by the natives amvuddu, and by the
Kinyoro andula. The harlequin quail (Coturniz Delegorguei)
is very common, and I believe this to be its native place.
From Dafilé southward this bird is to be found throughout the
whole country; it appears, however, to wander periodically
from south to north. Its habits are just those of the ordinary
quail, but its ery is very different, although it does remind one
of the quail, The native name is aluru, the Kinyoro name
heru. Later on, in Elema, I found the hitherto (I believe)
unknown eggs of this bird.

In addition, I may say that here, as southward towards the
equator, the doléb palm is rarely seen. A yellow flowering

Cassia, having a strong aperient action, is very common.

After a very short stay, we left our station of Mahagi early,
under a clouded sky, in order to visit Mahagi proper, lying
farther to the south. A strong south wind and a light load |
caused the steamer to roll horribly, After making a great
curve to avoid the shallows which lie to the south of our
station, we steamed on, having the shore at a short distance
to our right. The mountains were enveloped by a thick fog,
which also completely veiled the eastern border of the lake.
Small white waves were raised by the wind upon the deep
green water, in which numbers of darters were fishing. The
sparsely wooded mountains, which at this time were on fire for
days, rise to a considerable height, and culminate in Jebel
Eriku, a very massive mountain with deeply furrowed flanks.
A ravine separates it from the next chain, which runs behind
the other one, and from this point the mountains come down
sheer into the lake without the intervention of a level tract of
land. The lake is low now, and a narrow foreshore, mostly
covered with rubble, lies exposed.

Between the station and Jebel Eritku the level tract along
the lake narrows to six hundred yards, but it is well wooded.
The whole of the thinly wooded mountains are furrowed by
deep water-channels, which are filled with luxuriant vegetation
and bamboo thickets, small waterfalls being very numerous.

158 AN EXCURSION TO LUE.

The water-mark at the foot of the mountains showed that the
lake had fallen about eighteen inches. j

We halted at to.17 A.M. near the hot springs. At the
' foot of the almost precipitous cliffs there is a strip of sand
about ten feet broad, covered over with fragments of stone,
amongst which I noticed beautiful red-ribbed quartz and much
mica; at high water no doubt the whole of this place is
covered. - The cliff itself is a very fragile grey stone, split and
cleft in all directions, so that one can lift out great pieces with
one's hand. - The inner surface of such pieces is of a yellow-
ochre colour, covered in part by white efflorescence, having a
bitter taste. - This efflorescence is also found in great quantity
on the pieces of stone lying about,. From all the rents and
crevices of the rock perfectly clear yellowish water exudes ; it
smells and tastes strongly of sulphuretted hydrogen, The tem-
perature of this water was in one place 115° Fahr.; in two
others near by 128.3° Fahr., the water in the lake being 84°
Fahr. The atmospheric temperature was 81.5° Fahr., whilst the
aneroid read 27.7 in. (11 A.M.) - The temperature of the air to
a height of 44 feet above the ground was very hot, viz., 100.4"
Fahr. One could not see any real sediment or animal life in
the water, but there was a kind of white slimy substance upon
the stones over which the hot water flowed. I took samples
both of the rock and of the efflorescence for analysis. Many
flowering euphorbias, two small wild date palms, and numerous
bamboos grew in the neighbourhood.

I may be permitted to add here a few words concerning the
hot springs in this country; I know of four, and they all
contain sulphur. Going from north to south, the first is found
to the west of Lado, not far from the road which leads from
Niambara to Makraka; it is called Rillek, and has been visited
and examined by Dr. Junker, The next lies on the north-
west slope of Jebel Labilla or Abul Sals, to the E.N.E. of
Dufilé; it is very large and very hot (156° Fahr.), and is A]
called by the Madi " Amruppi." This hot spring appears to
be either intermittent, or else to vary much in the quantity
of water it yields. Near to this spring lies a second, con-
taining boiling water. 'The third warm spring (133° Fahr.)
is situated in the Shuli district, two and a half days' march to _

MAHAGI VILLAGE. 159

the south-west of Fatiko ; it is much smaller than the others.
I have also heard of other very hot springs which are to be
found in a district called Turkan, twelve days' march to the
east and south-east of Fatiko. It is from Turkan that camels
have been brought here, which still thrive. The well is said
to consist of a deep circular basin in the rocks.

Steaming on towards the south, past a narrow tract of level
land, the mountains became higher and higher, and behind
them another parallel chain was seen at intervals. Several
large villages and extensive fields of durrah were noticed upon
the heights. The highest mountain has two peaks ; it is pro-
bably 3000 feet above the level of the lake. After we had
steamed for some time along a widening tract of low land, we
landed, at 1.24 PM., at Mason's Mahagi. The time occupied
in steaming from our station to this point was four and a
half hours, but twenty minutes must be deducted, as this time
was occupied in cireumnavigating the shallows. We anchored
in ten feet of water in a kind of bay, The depth of the
water throughout our journey varied from twenty to fifty feet.
It appears as if the western part of the lake is shallowing
considerably, if indeed the whole lake is not gradually becoming
smaller. . The little bay is surrounded by a broad strip of
land covered with gravel; no shells are to be found here, and
at station Mahagi they are very rare, whereas on the eastern
side of the lake the shore is perfectly covered with univalves,
and more rarely with bivalves, in many places, such as Ronga
and Kibiro. In their place, however, we find crocodile egg-
shells in great numbers, crocodiles being very numerous in the
lake. - High hills covered by grass form the commencement of
the mountains, which present imposing outlines towards the
south. There are extensive banana groves between the hills,
and solitary sycamores having large edible fruits. On one of
the trees I had the good fortune to shoot a specimen of the
rare Treron nudirostris. I noticed here a stately tree which
had large sweet fruits containing a long seed exactly like the
fruit of the dog-rose ;* the fruit is eaten by birds and insects.
The watercourses are fringed by great thickets of reeds, and
here and there fields of sesame and durrah show that the

* Probably a species of Mimusops.-G. S.

160 AN EXCURSION To LUE.

inhabitants are not far off. - Yams (Dioscorea alata) are
cultivated here, and rattan is not uncommon. 'The people
speak the Lriri dialect. When I asked them the name of the
lake they replied, " Nan Madduong" (Great Water); the

name " Mwutan-Nzigé" is only used in Unyoro; in -

this name is hardly understood.

We started on our return voyage at 4 P.M., and arrived at
our station at 8.38 pa.

As official duties called me to the north, I was obliged to
leave this interesting land. We hugged the shore, and fog
again prevented me from making many observations. We
passed many large boats, propelled with two to six large
paddles. At 11.30 AM. we were exactly opposite the mouth
of the Victoria Nile, and half an hour later we entered the
Bahr-el-Jebel, the banks of which were again enlivened by
numerous herds of antelopes. I saw here a small hawk with

very long pointed wings, dark grey upon the upper surface, .

white underneath. _ Perhaps it is the Chelidopteryz Riocourtt ;
it flew in pairs. We halted for the night at 4.55 PM. to
the south of in the proximity of many villages
and durrah fields. Wood was immediately brought by the
natives for sale. The most remarkable, but most useless of
the natives was a man who carried about as a trophy a small
looking-glass hung to a bent stick; he inconvenienced every-
body by reflecting the sun into their eyes. I had formerly
given this glass to Wadelai's brother. I was told that six
days' march from here towards the west there is a large river
flowing to the west; it is called Wai.

As the question of the existence of a river flowing from

here towards the west, although apparently answered by Dr.
Junker's journey, is still disputed by others, I went from here
to Bora, where a chief is said to live who knows this western

river. After finding him (he is named Libba), and obtaining -

him as a guide by the aid of a small present, he took me to a
place where we only found a broad bay without any outlet to
the west. A Dongolaui then offered to guide us, and led us
up-stream for about three miles to an enormous papyrus wall,
which he indicated as the place of outlet. Near by, a little to
the south, lies a small Midi village, which we visited. The

\

AN OLD RIVER-CHANNEL 161

people at once fled, and it cost us much trouble to pacify
thema. - When I requested their chief, a young man of about
eighteen, to guide me to the AAor, he expressed his willingness,
on condition that I accompanied him unarmed. This I agreed
to, but unfortunately it had become too late for our expedition.
After walking for about a couple of miles through a tall grass
jungle, we saw, at about two miles distance, a swampy bed
about three-quarters of a mile to one mile broad, and over-
grown with plants, extending in a great curve from E.N.E. to
W.S.W. On either side of it were enormous barriers of
papyrus; grasses and reeds covered it almost entirely, and
water was only visible here and there. The chief told me
that this watercourse ran far into the country, where at last it
could be forded. The impression that I received was, that it
was either an old river-bed or a dead arm of the Nile con-
verted into a swamp. 'The Madi call it " Ldrogol." We
returned to the steamer exactly as the sun set. The fields
here were all surrounded by straw hedges, to protect them
from wild animals. - Elephants were said to be very numerous.
Very large fish were hanging upon frames to dry. After
steaming for rather more than a quarter of an hour we arrived
at Meshra-es-Seid, where, to give my people a rest, we re-
mained for the night. The next morning we reached Dufilé
at 11 AM., our voyage having been greatly delayed by a very
strong wind.

I occupied my short stay at Dufilé by compiling a vocabulary
of the Madi language, which is quite different from the other
languages spoken in this neighbourhood, but has a definite rela-
' tionship to the Makraké language. There was not much to
collect, for the grass had been burnt down near the station.
'There is, too, no forest here; only a few solitary tall trees
exist. Chief Abu Nakhra, who lives to the west of the river,
gave me some interesting notes on the Midi tribe, and con-
firmed my opinion that Khor L&rogoi was in very fact an old
'river-channel.

In order to complete some previous itineraries, I took a new
route from Dufilé to Fatiko and Fauvera, across Jebel Labilla,
'which route I have mentioned elsewhere. Communications

'had already been opened up between Fatiko and our new
L

162 A SAIL UPON THE ALBBRT LAKE.

station, Wiidelai, and I received letters from there in two and a
half days. - The route is as follows :-Fatiko to Jebel Nurvira
(Jebel-el-Ajuz), five to six hours ; Jebel Nurvira to Fagak, six -
hours; and from there to the river, two and a half to three
hours.

5. A Sam uron tar Ausert Lake: (1885).
(A Letter to Dr. Felkin.)

THE NILE ABOVE WADELAI-THE LAKE-A WOODING-STATION-WATER-
FOWL-MAHAGI AND ITS NEW ISLAND-KABREGA'S$ AUTHORITY OX
THE WEST BANK-A STORMY PASSAGE-EROSIVE ORIGIN OF THE
LAKE-KIBIRO AND ITS BRINE SPRINGS-FISHERMEN-A NATURALIST S
RAMBLES-RETURN TO THE NORTH.

A FEW miles south of Wiidelai the river (Bahr-el-Jebel), which
hitherto has been flowing between two parallel ranges of hills
in a bed only one-third of a mile wide, suddenly expands to a
breadth of nearly two and a half miles. This broad expanse of
water is studded with numerous small islands formed of reeds
and papyrus, and its shallow bays, even in seasons of high
water, harbour herds of hippopotami. - Cautiously the steamer
glided over the shallows, permitting us to view numbers of
pelicans swimming about and pursuing their business of fishing,
and groups of black heron-like Anastomus standing in small
companies knee-deep in the water. Owing to a plentiful supply
of good dry wood, the Khedive was able to steam at high pres-
sure, and so we soon reached the landing-stage of Fabongo,
from which place the road for Anfina's village branches away.
The village of Fabongo, which is inhabited by Aluri, lies a short
distance back from the river. The landscape along the river to
the south is not specially interesting, if we except the majestic
river itself, which is the best part of the scene. The western
bank is bordered by a chain of hills, which is for the most part
thinly wooded, and which, whilst generally hiding from sight a -
second range behind it that runs down to the lake, yet allows
its summits to be visible from time to time. Here and there
occurs a solitary doléb palm, but candelabra euphorbias and
tall bushes of the Calotropis procera are plentiful. The eastern f

 

ENTER THE LAKE. 163

bank is flatter, and is covered with short grass and planted with
a few trees ; it is, in fact, of the true savannah type. Every.
where there were large herds of antelopes, and very frequently a
troop of elephants appeared on their way to pasture or to get
- water. The banks seldom rise more than a foot and a half
above the surface of the stream. Immediately behind the fringe
of bushes that line the banks, were the durrah-fields of the
sparse native population, to guard which numerous watch-huts
have been erected. The harvest, in consequence of continued
drought and want of rain, did not look very promising.

Shortly after noon we passed the village of Fanigoro, belong-
ing to the chief Okello, which gives its name to this particular
district. The village, consisting of scattered groups of huts,
generally erected under the shade of a few clumps of trees,
is spread over the upper slopes of the western hill-range.
Numerous huts appeared also on the east of the river. The
inhabitants are Aliri, together with Shifalit-Wanyoro, who,
under their chief Amara, migrated hither in 1879, when we
abandoned our station at Magungo. - Both languages-Liir
and Kinyoro-are consequently spoken here.

A short distance to the south of Fanigoro, the principal
mountain range on the west of the lake approaches considerably
nearer, and splits into two distinct parallel chains, the nearer
one being lower than the more remote one; the latter, how-
ever, as it trends away towards the south, is frequently screened
from sight by the former,. The eastern bank of the river-
bed now receded farther and farther towards the south-east,
for the course which the river takes is slightly towards the
west. At 2.30 PM. we saw the extreme point of the right
margin of the river; thence it recedes eastwards to the mouth
of the stream which reaches the lake from Magiungo.

Entering the lake, we were met by masses of drifting Pistia
rosettes. We hugged the western shore, and soon reached the
district of the chief Boki, and his village, which bears the name
of Fanyumori. Seen from a distance, this village has a very
inviting appearance. Along the foot of the somewhat lofty
hills, which bear on their slopes numerous huts constructed in
the Magungo style, is a broad low-lying tract, covered with
short, succulent green grass, and having several groves of fine

164 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE.

trees. - Fields planted with ground-nuts and maize, small herds
of cattle and goats quietly grazing, groups of people indus-
triously weeding and sowing, women washing at the river,
with little children playing around them-all this made up a
picture of peace and prosperity such as, unfortunately, is
seldom seen in this part of the world.

On being signalled by the steamer, the people immediately
brought a quantity of dry wood, but to get it on board was a
labour attended with some difficulty ; for, in the first place, the
boat, owing to the shallow water, could not get close inshore;
and in the next, the people found great difficulty in wading
through the lake with the heavy beams on their heads, in con-
sequence of the strong wind. The chief, Boki, an old ac-
quaintance, came to us in a boat propelled with oars of
bamboo, and begged us to take some bamboos from him to
Kibiro, as Kabréga wished for them. - This was strange, because
bamboos grow plentifully in Kabréga's own country. The
chief's visit did not, however, last long, as the rolling of the
steamer did not seem to be quite to his taste.

The wind was meanwhile beginning to blow more strongly,
and, seeing that it was almost impossible to get the wood on
board, we deemed it advisable to steam on to the wood-station,
a little farther to the south, and there take in, early on the
following morning, a sufficient supply to last us all the
way to Kibfro and back, for no wood is to be obtained at that
place. Accordingly we steamed first south, and then south-
west, parallel to the mountain range. The foreshore in this

part is well wooded, and the chain of hills runs up into some -

peaks of considerable elevation, whilst beyond them we saw
now and again the summits of the more distant range. The
flanks of the hills were very scantily wooded. Owing to the
heavy rolling of the boat, the journey was not a pleasant one ;

my people have no idea of the utility of ballast. Twice on |

the way we met enormous shoals of small fish, apparently
proceeding northwards. The water of the lake was for a
considerable distance coloured light bluish-green by them,
and their continual movements occasioned a kind of bubbling,
and at times much splashing. Here also large masses of
Pistia were observable, likewise floating northward.

A WOODIxG@. SEATION. 165

Half an hour's steaming brought us to the wood-station,
a thick forest of considerable extent, on the edge of which,
close by the lake shore, Boki's people have erected their huts.
Here, in spite of all our foresight and precautions, we had a
bad night of it; a kind of cyclone raged from midnight till
morning, and several times made us anxious about the steamer.
Early next morning all hands were got to work at felling
trees, and the inhabitants of the place rendered first rate
service with their boats in getting the wood on board the
Khedive. From here the eastern shore of the lake was pretty
plainly visible as a chain of hills having a north-south axis.
When the mist cleared off, we also saw another distinct
mountain mass, situated farther north, the middle of which
bore east by south (103°); this I concluded was Jebel
Geist, near Kiroto. An expedition into the forest. on shore
did not reward us for our trouble, and we were soon compelled
by the buffaloes to return.

The trees we felled in this locality were mostly Diospyros
mespiliformis, an excellent material for firing purposes, and
one that is greatly liked for building. It has a fresh reddish
colour and a pleasant smell; when felled, it soon assumes a
beautiful darker tint. It resists the attacks of termites pretty
well, yet it did not answer, we found, for boatbuilding; but
it serves excellently for making gunstocks, especially when it
has been buried for some time in the ground. I also observed
another sweet-smelling species of timber amongst the firewood
brought on board, but I could not ascertain from what tree it
came. I am inclined to think that it was a species of Vitex.

All along the river and in the lake I was struck with the
relatively small number of species of water-birds. Farther
porth, in the Balkr-el-Abiad; between 12" and 13° N. lat.,
water-birds and marsh-birds occur in innumerable flocks, while
to the south, in the localities mentioned, one cannot find a
single duck or goose; and although we can explain this
very marked difference during the winter season (November to
March) by the fact that large numbers of European emigrants
on their way to the south do not proceed beyond the marshy
tract between Sobat and Ghaba Shamb6é, still this will not
account for the paucity of species, and for the small number of

166 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT

the species which do occur, in localities that are so eminently
suited for them farther south. Some herons (Ardea alba and
A. comata) went on fishing around the steamer, quite regard-
less of the bustle, and a little farther away I noticed specimens
of storks (Anastomus lamelligerus), Le Vaillant's darter (Plotus

[duns

Levaillanti), and cormorant (Phalacrocorax africanus). A few Q
yabirus (Mycteria senegalensis) were searching an inundated ¢
low-lying piece of land, and on the margin of the lake a few _
Egyptian geese (Ohemalopex «gyptiacus) showed themselves. _

With the pelicans mentioned above as having been observed
in the river, I close the list. Not a single plover was seen,
nor yet a strand-snipe or a duck.

By noon we had enough wood on board, and with a very
fresh wind we steamed, at about one-third of a mile from
the shore, towards the south, having the western hills on our
right. In height these range from 1200 to 1500 feet; they
are for the most part thinly wooded, and their sides are often
seamed with watercourses; thickets of bamboo appear in
places. - The watercourses, however, are little more than rain-
channels, and even in the rainy season they are often dry.
Their direction is shown by the denudation and seaming of

the hillsides, and by the scattered blocks of stone; they |

have, of course, in most cases followed the natural foldings

and crevices of the rock. 'The level margin of the lake, the |
width of which varies considerably, is for a short distance well |

inhabited, but farther towards the south the huts disappear,
and park-like land is intermingled with fine groups of trees,
patches of desolate grass, and dense forest. On the east the
mountain chain was scarcely visible, owing to the veil of mist
that enveloped it.

HH +;

After less than an hour, we came upon a long spit of sand, -
in the shape of a crescent. On keeping well to the west, we |
soon perceived that it was an island, and came to anchor at -

about fifty yards from its shore. This island lies somewhat
farther south than our deserted station of Mahagi, which we
recognised from three large trees growing there. Immediately
behind Mahagi, which bears N.N.W. (334°), the western chain

of hills descends with a gentle slope, and the more distant .

range behind comes into view. The latter contains summits _

A NEW ISLAND. 167

of considerable altitude, which may be compared with Jebel
Eruku, and still farther south it has yet higher peaks ; the
entire range is called by the Negroes, from the country
behind it, the Mountains of Léndu. - The island, off which we
lay, is separated from the mainland by a narrow channel,
which was not deep enough for the steamer. To judge from
the great quantity of mud in it, this channel will ere long be
quite filled up; meanwhile it is kept open by the strong
current that is driven through it by the powerful south
wind.

The island is very short, of crescent shape, and lies with its
convexity towards the north. It is of quite recent formation,
for in 1879, as we noticed whilst going across from Mahagi to
the hot springs of Kibiro, the spot where it now lies was
covered with shallow water. It was therefore formed within
the space of about five years, for it has been already occupied
for two years. Its maximum length, from horn to horn, mea-
sures 3200 feet, and its maximum breadth 300 feet; its
greatest height above the level of the lake is about 6 fest.
Its shores, which are flat and slope gradually down to the
water, consist entirely of drift sand, and surround a firmer
centre of rich dry mud. - Tall grass and reeds grow at the water's
edge, and a species of acacia (Acacia mellifera) upon the
higher parts of the island. A multitude of black-headed
weaver-birds (Hyphantornis dimidiata) were flitting about the
island, numerous little fly-catchers (Muscicapa) clung to the
stems of the reeds, a flock of Phalacrocorax africanus were
sunning themselves on the margin of the water, and close by
them some huge crocodiles were lazily basking in the sun.
These creatures seem to abound in the neighbourhood ; we
afterwards killed one which measured 114 feet in length.
Turtles of great size must also be plentiful in these waters; at
least I infer so from the large eggs which we found so abun-
dantly everywhere ; but I never succeeded in getting possession
of one of the animals themselves.

The origin of this island, to which the natives give the name
of Tunguru, admits of easy explanation. The large volume of
water contributed to the lake by the two principal feeders
which join it in the south-west-viz., the Nyussi-Msisi and the

168 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE,

larger Duauéru-flows principally towards the east side, so that
the detritus and sediment which those rivers bring with ther
in suspension are deposited on the west side of the lake. In
the case before us, this process is largely aided by a projecting
point behind the island arresting the rain, and facilitating its
precipitation. - From what I have observed of the lake, I am
inclined to believe that the flat shore on the west is gradually
encroaching upon its waters; in other words, the lake is in
this part gradually filling up.

The chief of the whole district of Mahagi is my old acquaint-
ance Songa, a trusty and reliable man, who came to pay me a
visit late in the evening. On receiving a few small presents,
he made many apologies for coming empty-handed ; my arrival
had taken him completely by surprise. All Negroes must not
. be set down as drunken good-for-nothings and beggars. The

entire population of the west shore, from Okello's village, Fani- -

goro, right down to the recently subjugated land of Mboga,
acknowledges the supremacy of Kabréga. This prince main-
tains relations of close intercourse with the several chiefs of
this region by sending them from time to time small presents
of Zanzibar cloth, or a few pieces of finer bark cloth, which
is imported from Uganda, and is greatly esteemed in this
country, In return for these presents the subject chiefs do
not, apparently, render any fixed services, but in Kabréga's
last war against Ugifainda they gave him great assistance by
sending supplies of arrows, lances, and shields. Kabréga has
also, on occasion, complied with the request of the Liiri chiefs,
and sent some of his men across the lake to aid them in making
raids into Londi, over on the other side of the hills. f

Mahagi is an exceptionally healthy place, and is particularly
well adapted for gardening and agriculture. The abundance
of water in the neighbourhood would greatly facilitate irriga-
tion. For the present I have left only very few people there,
but I intend shortly to establish a permanent station. - Unfor-
tunately, the steep ascent and the impassable nature of the
bordering mountain chains make communication with the dis-
tricts to the west very difficult, but possibly a more accessible
pass may exist farther to the south.

For two days past, the aneroid had indicated an abnormal

dir Pe

- Arvin

Fs -, ie:
oin ite in

A STORM ON -THE LAKE. 169

atmospheric pressure, and an attempt to determine the elevation
of Mahagi with a boiling-point thermometer, for the purpose
of checking previous determinations, was therefore a failure.
In the night this low pressure was compensated for. It had
begun to blow hard in the evening, and thunder and light-
ning, with rain, in the south, held out no promising prospect
for the night; the storm kept off, however, until midnight.
The steamer rode in deep water, and was protected by the
island against the force of the waves coming in from the south,
so that the storm passed away over our heads. But about
midnight the wind veered round to the east-north-east, and
the steamer then became fully exposed to the violent buffets of
the angry waves. The rain came down in torrents. To make
matters worse, the anchor dragged, and in a moment the
steamer was aground, but fortunately in mud and sand. Every
time the white-crested waves struck the broadside of the boat
they made her heel over. In spite of all our united endes-
yours, we were quite unable to free her from her unpleasant
position, but by casting out another anchor, and by its means
hauling the ship round, we managed to turn her so far as to
present her stern instead of her side to the direct force of the
waves; even then she felt the shock through all her timbers.
The storm subsided about five in the morning, and the rain
ceased; I at once got all hands to work, threw out another
anchor, and by reversing our engine, we were able to haul
the ship off the mud. About seven o'clock we got afloat,
and after repairing minor damages, we started half an hour
later to cross over to the east side of the lake. It was still
blowing stiff, and the foam-covered waters beyond the narrow
extremity of the island looked anything but assuring; and,
in fact, we had scarcely passed that point when the game
began ; in a very short time a large part of my people were
prostrated with veritable sea-sickness, and notwithstanding
that the motion of the water, and consequently of the boat,
was soon greatly moderated, my suffering companions did not
recover until we got under the shelter of the land. In a
southerly and south-south-easterly direction, the brave Khedive
steamed merrily onwards, frequently passing obliquely through
large shoals of fish, which doubtless felt more comfortable

170 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT: LAKE.

in the heaving waves than did the majority of my people on
them. In such places, the light green waters of the lake,
owing to the refraction of the sunlight on the glittering
silvery scales of the fish, assumed an almost bluish-green hue.
The fish were, indeed, so numerous that in less than a quarter
of an hour we counted six shoals, doubtless divisions all belong-
ing to one mighty host. On our left we saw the mountain
'chain of the eastern shore enveloped in mist. Due east we
observed some flat strips of sand, sparsely overgrown with
reeds, but whether they belonged to an island or to the main-
land we were unable to determine in the mist. At length we
approached so close to the shore that we got within sight of a
long row of hills lying before the mountain range, and presently,
also, we saw the foreshore here and there between them and
the lake. The lake-side appeared to be bare, green patches,
most likely of rushes and reeds, occurring but seldom. The
land had a desolate and inhospitable appearance, and seemed
to be totally uninhabited. Pursuing a course nearly parallel
to the shore, we came, shortly before noon, so close in to it
that we could easily distinguish the features of the hillsides.
These hills are high, and green at the foot. Their more
elevated parts support a sparse vegetation, but arboreal flora
ceases almost entirely, which is perhaps attributable to denu-
dation of the superficial humus by water. In spots, however, -
where foldings and corners allow an accumulation of humus to
take place, and where the moisture can be retained, there exists
a richer vegetation, and often even patches of forest. The
summits of the hills are mostly either rounded domes or broad
flat ridges. Sharp pinnacles are nowhere visible. A super- _
ficial examination of the northern portion of the chain shows -
plainly that the entire region at the foot of the hills right
away to Magiingo has been formed by the lake and the rivers. -
The low ground between the hills and the lake extends north-
wards in the form of a triangle, and consists entirely of allu-
vial matter. The range runs due north, and is connected
immediately with the isolated hills of Kiroto and Masindi, |
which I consider to be the remains of a former chain that has -
been broken down by atmospheric agency.
As for the lake, I attribute its origin solely to erosion. I |

ORIGIN OF THE LAKE, 17 I

think it more than probable that formerly a large stream may
have made its way from the south upon the high plateau between
the two ranges to east and west of the lake, so that its erosive
action, combined with that of inundations, heavy raing, caving-
in, and the influence of sun and weather, are quite sufficient
to account for the result. The geological formation of both
ranges is the same; their altitudes differ but little, and the
terrace-like formation of their descent lakewards is in each
case exactly alike. The final decision will, of course, depend
upon the examination of the shores, and especially of the
rivers which empty their waters into the lake on the south-
work to which I hope shortly to direct my attention.

Shortly after noon, we saw at the head of a wide crescent-
shaped bay, three large villages, all of which are built on the
outlying ridges close to the foot of the hills behind ; we cast
anchor off the southernmost of these, at about fifty yards from
land, but as the anchorage gave no shelter whatever against
wind and weather, we had to hold off shore during the day,
and at night to go out into deep water. As soon as we
anchored, a number of people appeared on shore laden with
thin beams of wood-material for firing-but they were
agreeably surprised when we told them we did not require it,
and 'only asked for some chips for our kitchen.. Rome of
Kabréga's people who had accompanied me from Widelai, and
were bound for home, had meanwhile disembarked. - Their
leader, Msige, now came back on board, along with the chief
of the place, Kagoro, who is a stalwart and very dark-skinned
fellow, with smooth shaven head, and was clad in the indis-
pensable clean-looking ox-hide, above which he had a piece of
new bark cloth, and in his hand the long staff of authority
which marks the Wanyoro chief. Kagoro bore himself with
much dignity, and made a favourable impression upon me.
After we had exchanged the usual compliments with each
other, and he had placed his district at my entire service-
as the old friend of Kabréga, I am held in high esteem by
the Wanyoro-we landed together, and sent a messenger to
Kabréga, with dispatches for the post to Uganda.

Having expressed a wish to live on shore during the period
of my stay in this place, I immediately had the offer of any

P732 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE,

hut I might choose, but I could find none that would suit
me; so, early on the following morning, I begged Kagoro to
have a hut and an awning constructed for me. This he at
once promised to get done, although, owing to the scarcity
of materials, it was a difficult task to accomplish. Late in

1

j
5:
t
j
I
a
a

(
h
F

the evening I received a sheep and twelve head of poultry as -
a present, together with the promise of more on the morrow _

-of course a promise ad calendas G@recas. One must, how-

ever, in such cases, rest content with the goodwill and the -
smooth words. We could not, indeed, expect the natives,

who have themselves to buy all their necessaries of life from
beyond the hills, to be particularly generous to strangers.
Kibiro, the name of the Central African trading station before
which our steamer lay, produces nothing but salt, and with
this its inhabitants have to purchase even their firewood.
Along the lake shore runs a tolerably broad strip of sand,
sometimes coarse, sometimes fine, spread over sharp-edged
debris of stone, and in some places so thickly strewn with the
yellowish shells of a species of small snail as to have a per-
fectly white appearance. - These are the undeveloped outer
coverings of two or three forms of which I had already

gathered specimens. The bay is entirely surrounded by this -

girdle of sand ; beyond it comes a belt of undergrowth on

dunes, where grows a species of Aristida, that takes the i

place of bent grass (Elymus), and pricks in a most unpleasant

manner. On the farther slopes of these dunes we crossed _

places in which the soil was swept quite bare; heaps of a
scoured and finely pulverised kind of earth of a greyish-
yellow colour, patches in which the soil had been recently

moistened, preparatory to being scratched up (for salt), little -

pools full of yellowish water, and walls of mud, along the |
foot of which stood rows of clay vessels ranged on stones |

placed at regular intervals, proved that the people here en-
gage in some special extraction.

The steadings or hamlets of the inhabitants are scattered all
along the low foot-hills, being separated from one another by
narrow and very dirty passages; on the whole, they suggest
the idea of a tolerably dense population. Each hamlet is

surrounded by a reed hedge, often in a very defective con- _

THE VILLAGE OF KiB{iro. 173

dition, and contains a number of huts crowded together.
They are constructed in the Wanyoro style, with partition
walls of bamboo, a raised sleeping-place for the head of the
family, the ground carpeted with hay, and the whole interior
swarming with fleas. Vast numbers of poultry abound every-
where ; they are a somewhat larger breed than the miniature
variety of the Aluri, which, again, rival in diminutive size the
poultry of the Monbuttu. - Multitudes of dogs, of a breed some-
thing like our greyhounds, and of a liver or liver-and-white
colour, prowl about the huts, apparently the property of nobody
in particular; at any rate they are evidently uncared for, for
they are terribly lean, and frequently make forced loans from
the interior of the dwellings. Wherever there exists a suffi-
cient quantity of the sparse grass, large flocks of a fine breed
of sheep and of goats were grazing, and they seemed to enjoy
the vegetation that springs up on the saline soil of the hill-
slopes. I saw but one solitary cow. - Cattle, indeed, appear to
be extremely rare in this district, or else do not thrive well;
besides, the mountain pasturage would hardly suffice for feed-
ing cattle. f

Between the huts and the hamlets, and often, too, within
them, a few small trees grow separately, mostly Ficus lutea,
from the bark of which the people fabricate the well-known
bark cloth. - These trees are not, however, expressly cultivated
here, but they are so easily propagated and grow so rapidly,
that a twig stuck in the ground only requires to be kept moist
to take root and shoot up immediately. Close by the margin
of the lake stands a single, tall, slender doléb palm, whose
crown is literally full of hanging nests of the weaver-bird,
belonging to the larger species, Hyphantormis abyssinica,
which is so prevalent farther north about Wiadelai. - Here
too the bird gave evidence of its very quarrelsome disposi-
tion, for at the foot of the tree lay a great number of
destroyed nests and broken eggs, proving that serious com-
bats must often have taken place aloft.

The vegetative covering of the hills is of a peculiarly poor
character, recalling that of steppe country and deserted arable
land. Trees are very scarce; in fact, the sole representatives
of true foliaceous varieties were a couple of tamarinds in the

174 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE.

middle of the village, on whose branches rested several snow-_
white herons. The few Balanites which occur are small and
mean in appearance, and Zizyphus does not grow to be more
than a bush. A tree-like species of euphorbia (Euphorbia \
tirucalli, I presume), as well as tall Calotropis procera, and
what was to me a new kind of Datura, with yellowish blossoms, _
are, however, pretty frequent. - But the characteristic covering

 

 

;
4

of the soil, except where the bare stone comes to the surface, is _

a species of Anthistiria, which, however, is too short to be used g
for the roofing of huts, and has no particular value as food for _
animals. At intervals appear, as it were, islands of closely in-

terlaced prickly shrubs, and round about these are clumps of _

Solanacese, tall Ocymum bushes, and some

These thickets, which are low and impenetrable, harbour é

multitudes of small birds, among which the loud comical song _
of the fantail warbler (Cisticola ladoensis) and the full ringing -

notes of the grosbeak (OCrithagra leucopygos) were especially
conspicuous. - This portion of the lake shore forms undoubtedly
part of the steppe zone to which Wadelai belongs, and which
includes the entire valley of the Bahr-el-Jebel. As ornaments
of every pathway and every track, I may mention the great
number of turtle-doves (Turtur senegalensis) and the beautiful
finches (Lagonosticta rufopicta), which fly up from under the

traveller's feet at almost every step he takes, and, regardless -

of the noise and bustle around them, go on searching for their

food in the midst of the village and the kraals as boldly as in _

the thickets in their vicinity. 'The relative poverty of the

flora and its steppe-like character must be set down to the -

fact that, although the amount of rainfall, like that in Waidelai,

is not small, taking the year through, yet its occurrence is _
separated by such long periods of drought that the vegetation _

has no opportunity to develop; nor can the moisture, which _
is engendered by evaporation from the waters of the lake do -

anything to promote the growth of vegetation, because it is
carried away by the strong winds which almost constantly

prevail. Moreover, the humus which covers the stony débris _

is very thin.
Immediately behind the village rises the principal range of
hills. The two individual hills which tower above the village

|
f

%

LAKE FISHERY. 173

are called Rugoi and Kyente ; across these, very steep paths
lead to the country on the other side, and to Kabréga's capital.
In the opposite direction lies the gleaming lake, backed
on the distant shore by a range of hills with a south-west
trend.

The bay of Kibiro is rather shallow, and its waters are the
haunt of vast shoals of fish, in consequence of which the natives
are industrious fishers. In this pursuit they use large canoes
hollowed out of bamboo stems, and frequently spend the entire
day on the lake. Their oars are bamboo poles and a kind of
shovel. In spite of this primitive and laborious mode of pro-
gression, these people, especially in favourable weather, not
infrequently venture to cross the lake to Mahagi, for the
purpose of selling fish; sometimes, indeed, leaving their boats
under the care of Songa, they go over to the other side
of the hills, where they find a better market for their wares.
It sometimes happens, on these voyages across the lake,
that the fishermen suffer much from sudden storms and bad
weather, and many of them: have gone to the bottom. The
fish are generally so imperfectly dried-for although abun-
dance of salt occurs everywhere, nobody thinks of using it
for curing fish-that they give out a most unpleasant odour,
but this does not seem to render them at all unpalatable to
those who consume them. This trade in dried fish is carried
on in all the districts beyond the hills on both sides of the lake.
The chief species of fish that I myself noticed were small
Mormyrus and large Hydrocyon.

In the neighbourhood of Kibiro there is not a single square
inch of cultivated land ; consequently the place produces no
corn, no vegetables, no bananas, &c. Even sweet potatoes,
which are an indispensable article of diet in other parts of
Unyoro, are not planted here, and are only occasionally brought
for sale in small quantities from beyond the hills; consequently,
corn of all kinds is a very valuable present-in fact, the most
valuable one can make; it is also a much-prized article for
purposes of barter. All the necessaries of life required by the
inhabitants of Kibiro are carried down the steep mountain
paths on people's heads ; all the energies of the native popula-
tion-that is, of the women, for the men are lazy and work

176 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE,

very little-are devoted to the extraction and preparation of
salt. - This constitutes an important industry in Kibiro, which
supplies with salt not only all the northern parts of Unyoro as
far as Mriali, but also most districts of Uganda and the Lnir
and Shulli countries. The salt deposits of Kibfro, therefore,
constitute one of the most valuable portions of Kabréga's
dominions. In the recent war between Uganda and Unyoro,
the Waginda, before their defeat, demanded a very large
quantity of salt (it is said 1000 loads), together with a large
supply of ivory, as blackmail, to abstain from war.

We paid a visit to the principal centre of the salt prepara-
tion, which lay only about ten minutes east of our anchorage.
Proceeding northwards along the lake shore, we could not help
noticing the artificial landing-places made by the native fisher-
men for the protection of their boats, by building up walls of
stone and carrying them a little distance into the shallow
lake. These stone walls are the favourite resting-places of
numbers of black-crested wagtails (Motacilla vidua), and occa-
sionally a grave meditative Scopus umbreft@ also takes up
his station there. A short distance farther on we crossed
the brook that comes from the hot springs; its waters are
dammed up so that they only reach the lake by a thin trickling
stream ; the wind and waves, in fact, often pile up the sand
across its mouth in such quantities as to close it up completely.
From this point the lake shore trends away in a wide curve ;
it is everywhere flat, and in certain places thick patches of
rushes were in full bloom. Here I secured a specimen of the
true western Hyphantic«a erythrops, one of the greatest rare-
ties in our own district. The strand vegetation is extremely
poor, consisting only of reeds, Aristida, Calotropis, Datura,
and Solanum.

After passing the last settlement, we struck inland. Here
the ground rises in a couple of terrace-like steps, the edges of
which consist of clayey soil of a reddish colour, intermingled
with plant detritus and some snail-shells. These terraces,
therefore, are alluvial in character, the strand being now in
process of formation ; the upper terrace, the edge of which lies
thirty feet above the level of the lake, is, of course, the older,
and the lower owes its origin to the detritus washed down from

THE SALTWORKS OF KIBIRO. 177

the hills and heaped up at their foot. The path led at first
between groups of dirty-looking, miserable huts; but the
people have some excuse for their unsatisfactory condition,
seeing that they have to purchase the long grass of which
these huts are constructed, with salt, from beyond the hills. A
slight bend of the path westwards, and we stood before the
saltworks.

Immediately on our left rose the lofty mountain chain, and
at its foot gushed forth the hot springs, to which we de-
scended. - These springs are situated in a kind of deep ravine,
ending in a corrie with perpendicular walls, formed by the
incaving of the hills behind. Blocks of stone and masses of
debris-fragments of primitive rock-lie scattered about here in
chaotic confusion, and, under the combined effects of heat and
moisture, they have assumed the appearance of wacke. The
floor of the ravine and the stones with which it is littered,
are so hot that one cannot bear the hand upon them ; the heat
even penetrates through the shoes to the feet. On every side
we heard the continuous bubbling and hissing of water, and the
gurgling of gases issuing from the hot mud. Hundreds of tiny
springs burst from the overheated soil, and fill the air with
sulphurous gases, with which is mingled a slight smell of
bitumen. The atmosphere has such a high temperature that
we felt almost stifled, and as if we were in a steam bath-and
this idea was further strengthened by the little jets of steam
which rose on all sides from the boiling water. This " witch's
caldron," in which we come face to face with the workings of
Nature's forces, is called by the Wanyoro, " Kabigga." The
perfectly clear water gushes out from under stones, out of
crevices in the rock, and directly out of the ground. Seen in
a glass, it has a yellowish tinge. In several places its tem-
perature varies between 185° and 195° Fahr., and it gives off
a slight smell like that of sulphuretted hydrogen. In taste
the water is rather saline, and when taken in large quanti-
ties, it acts as a moderate purgative. It flows strongest
in calm weather, wind and rain diminishing its outgush.
Earthquake shocks are rather frequent in Kibiro. I saw no
vegetation in the ravine, or at least none at its farther ex-
tremity ; but its upper rim was clothed with thick bushes and

M

178 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE.

thorny shrubs, and between these were little clumps of an aloe,
with leaves striped with white. No labour can be performed
in the immediate vicinity of the springs, owing to the over-
heated soil and want of space. We turned our faces towards
the lake, and followed the curiously winding ravine to its
outlet.

As we passed along we could easily imagine ourselves in the
shaft of a gold-mine; and, in point of fact, the salt is gold to
all our tribes. The floor of the ravine had been levelled and
cleared of all stones. The hot water was conducted in all
directions in small troughs, set in and ingeniously supported on
stones. - Lumps of riddled earth lay heaped up ready for being
operated upon. The several work-places were separated from
one another by rows of stones. Women and children were
busy everywhere, either scratching up the saline soil, or else
filling the sieve-like apparatus. - The strangest thing about the
scene was, perhaps, the walls of saline earth, piled up to the
height of six or seven feet, and having rows of filtering ves-
sels at their base; these walls, when seen from a distance,
look like the ruins of a village.

The method of preparing the salt is quite simple. - 'The
earth from which the salt is to be extracted is placed in the
evening under the end of a trough, whence a thin stream
of water trickles over it all night long. In the morning it is
put to dry for some hours; after this, the women, with cres-
cent-shaped pieces of iron, scratch off its superficial layers, and
put them into other small troughs, out of which they riddle it
again into small heaps. The next day a certain quantity of
this earth is mixed with water, and then conveyed to the filter-
ing apparatus. This consists of simple clay vessels, having.
holes in the bottom covered with a layer of fine hay ; the,
vessels themselves stand upon three stones, and have beneath,
them smaller clay vessels, into which the liquid drops. This,
apparatus stands in rows, at the base of those mud walls.
to which I have already referred. When the filtration isi
finished, if the manufacturer is not pressed for time, hes
allows the liquor to evaporate in the open air; it then leaves:
behind it a pure white salt. If, however, time cannot be given
for this process of evaporation, it is accomplished by means of}

£
i

THE SALTWORKS. 179

boiling within the huts; but the salt so obtained is darker
in colour and less pure. 'The skill of the women consists in
mixing the earth and water in the right proportions just before
the filtering begins.

Bad weather and continued rain greatly interfere with the
salt manufacture, for the soil then becomes saturated with
moisture, and in that state is not suitable for the extraction of
salt. At such times the people break down the sides of the
ravine, for they also contain a high percentage of saline matter.
It is, of course, self-evident that this continual drain upon the
layers of the ravine-bottom must result in its gradual lower-
ing. At the present time the walls have an average height of
thirty to fifty feet, showing the extent to which human agency
has utilised the saline deposits contained in the soil.

It would be interesting to know whether the yield of salt
undergoes any proportionate variation as the ravine gets deeper ;
for this would decide the question whether the salt, as the
rative workers maintain, comes from the water of the hot springs
r not. I am myself inclined to think that these springs
lave no connexion with the supply of salt except that of
pening up the layers of earth in which it is contained. The
rocks from among which the springs issue are primitive rocks ;
he salt itself must lie in the alluvial soil, just as it does at
Rejaf and at Gondokoro. At all events, the people of Kibfro
iflirm that when the water of the springs is cooled by heavy
ains, and the soil is consequently charged with moisture, they
re unable to carry on the process for the extraction of the
alt. But the same is true at Rejaf, where no hot springs
xist. It is much more reasonable to suppose that the rain
vashes the salt out of the soil, and consequently the saline
iquor is too thin to deposit much salt.

The salt of Kibiro is coarse-grained, and mostly of a
ather dark grey colour, which is due to the process of
manufacture. It has a faintly bitter after-taste-a fact also
ioticed by the Negroes.

Kabréga once sent me as a present of especial value a packet
f salt of a dark grey colour, but very pure in saline properties,
hich he obtained from Hamgurko, on the river of Usongora
the Duéru).. The bitter taste that characterises the salt of

180 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE

Kibiro could easily be got rid of by a different process of evapo-
ration and by repeated crystallisation ; but the demand for it
is so great that the makers need not be very particular in its
preparation. The salt destined for sale is made up in cylin-
drical packets, and wrapped in dried banana leaves. A packet
generally weighs 74 ocka (25 lbs.), and is sold for 400 cowries,
equivalent in value to about 5s. 6d., for the Zanzibar Arabs
in Unyoro reckon the Mejidie thaler of 20 Turkish piastres
(=3s8. 54.) to be worth 250 cowries.

As already mentioned, the existence of salt here has called
forth a very brisk trade. As articles for exchange which are
much sought after, I may enumerate ox-hides and skins of the
larger kinds of antelope, durrah and eleusine corn, iron ore and
spear-heads, a little brass in thick bars, and glass beads. The
last named are, however, only articles of luxury, for the people:
mostly prefer to buy corn with their fish, eggs, and poultry, &c.
Tobacco is very dear; sheep and goats are cheaper, though of
the latter only the he-goats are sold; and still cheaper are!
poultry, which are seldom eaten in Unyoro.

The inhabitants of Kibifro are pure Wanyoro, or Bunyoro, as
it is sometimes pronounced. They have a dark-tinted com-
plexion, are well proportioned, and most of them have intelligent:
countenances. Their clothing consists of that usually worn ins
Unyoro, viz., ox-hide dressed very soft. Bark cloth, which is
very dear, and therefore scarce, is sometimes worn, as well as goat-
skins, by the women. The only weapons are spears, the blades:
of which are covered with leather scabbards adorned with!
tassels. The dialect of the people varies but little from thats
of Mugaya, which represents that of the elegant Kinyoro. - The:
natives of Kibfro and Bugoma speak the same dialect, which:
bears much resemblance to Magingo. Each of the three:
villages which constitute Kibfro, has its own chief, but the:
head-man of the three is Kagoro, in whose village alone saltl
is extracted. }

The health of the district is reported to be satisfactory ; justs
at the present moment, however, there are sporadic cases of}
measles, the expiring remains of a serious epidemic whichs
carried off many victims as far as to Widelai. In many Lt
kinds of illness the people have recourse to bathing in the

LETTERS FROM UGAKXDA. 181

hot springs, and special cases of skin disease are brought
hither from the countries beyond the hills to try the same
treatment.

I was agreeably surprised here to receive a letter from Dr.
Junker, announcing his safe arrival in Uganda; it is to be
hoped that he will also be fortunate enough to reach home
safely. Along with this, came greetings from my old acquaint-
ance Idi, formerly secretary to Mtésa, and now a frontier chief
of Uganda; also an official communication from Nubar Pasha,
and a very friendly letter from the Sultan of Zanzibar. I had,
therefore, every reason to be pleased with the results of my
expedition. I had accomplished the end for which I had under-
taken it, viz., the despatch and receipt of letters by post.

Before starting on the return journey, however, I resolved
to complete my labours by ascending the mountain chain
on the east of the lake. Twelve minutes' walk from my tent,
diagonally across the village, brought us to the real foot of
the range. At that spot the aneroid registered 27.80 in.
at 73° Fahr,, against 27.85 in. at 73° Fabr. near the huts (at
8.35 aM.) The ascent led at first over blocks of stone and
sharp-edged pieces of rock, and was very steep. The narrow
path was, in fact, so thickly strewn with sharp fragments of
rock and stone as to make the shoes of our own manufacture
a very insufficient protection to the feet. The side of the hill
was quite bare ; neither animals exist nor plants grow on the
naked stone, which is washed clean by the rain, and baked and
cracked by the fierce rays of the sun. Such was the slope up
to the first terrace, where we rested in order to take bearings.
The steamer lay almost immediately below us, proving that we
had climbed up in a straight line. The aneroid registered
27.45 in. at 57° Fahr. 'The surface of the terrace on which
we stood was a long flat ridge, almost destitute of stones, and
clothed with a soft carpet of grass.

Above us lay the second terrace, which also was reached by
a steep path, so that on arriving at the top we were glad to
pause and recover breath. Here again the steamer lay im-
mediately below us ; the aneroid now gave 27.06 in. at 81°.
The narrow rain-gutter, which had served for our path upwards
from the lower terrace, was in several places almost barred by

182 A SAIL UPON THE ALBERT LAKE.

diagonal crevices in the rock, which formed high and difficult
steps; but worse than these were the sharp stones, which pre-
vented us from getting a good foothold, and the thorny acacias,
which made the narrow path still narrower.

Towards the summit the ascent was easier, because the stones
became fewer and the ground more level. At 9.24 A.M. we
reached a good road, which seemed to lead on farther in a
south-easterly direction. - On our left were several small dome-
like summits, separated from each other by depressions, evi-
dently belonging to the northern part of the range we had just
ascended. Straight in front of us, at about half an hour's
distance, another low dome-shaped eminence closed in the
view, whilst on our right was yet another elevation of the same
character, which we proceeded to climb. We finally rested
under the shade of a mean-looking Balanite. Here the aneroid
reading at 9.40 A.M. was 26.79 in. at 78° Fahr. (in the shade).
This, without any correction, indicates that we were about 1 1 50
feet above the level of the lake, which agrees sufficiently well
with the altitude of 3000 feet assumed for the elevated plateau
of the region lying between the lakes.

From the position we occupied, both the steamer and the
village were out of sight; this, however, was due to the forma-
tion of the hills. 'The several terraces mount up one above
the other like bastions, and are each crowned by a narrow flat
ridge, whilst the steep channels already mentioned connect the
terraces together. - The view downwards is cut off by the pro-
jecting terraces and the close thickets and bushes growing on
the lower slopes. Away in the west, on the other shore of the
lake, the lofty hills of Londil were wrapped in mist. Close to
the edge of the hills, on our right, a narrow sandy cape ran
out into the lake, bending round at its extremity on both sides
like an anchor. This, too, was evidently of quite recent forma-
tion, for it bore no vestige of vegetation.

All the summits of the hills are covered with Anthistiria
grass, which serves as food for the sheep and goats that
are brought up here to graze whem they can get nothing
better. A species of Scabiosa, with whitish blossoms and very
pleasant smell, also abounds, but trees are few and low-such
as some yellow-flowering acacias, Balanites, Zizyphus, Grewia,

A RAMBLE, +83

and shrubby bushes of Carissa, smelling like jasmine. In addi-
tion to these, I observed several aloes, a low hibiscus with brim-
stone-coloured blossoms, some low Solanacere, and a pretty Poly-
gala, - Above our heads circled a species of eagle (most likely
Aquilae Wahlbergir), whilst in the bushes and on the stones
we saw turtle-doves and pipits (Antius). . Here a number of
people with burdens, mostly of firewood, on their heads, passed
us on their way down the mountain.

At 9.45 an. we began the descent, which was quicker, but
not pleasanter, than the ascent, being made in twenty-nine
minutes. At 10.20 we reached our huts. Here the aneroid
now read 27.81 in. at 84° Fahr., consequently 1 mm. less than
the reading taken when we set out.

Although there was now nothing to prevent my departure,
I nevertheless, at Kagoro's request, consented to stay a day
longer. Towards evening that chief came with a budget of
compliments and a few eggs by way of a present, excusing
himself for not bringing more on the ground of bad times and
short suppliese-a sure means to enhance the value of his gift.
On getting the pet wish of his heart gratified, viz., the pre-
sent of a pair of shoes, he took his departure in high delight.
With a little patience and goodwill, Negroes are so easy to
please !

Before leaving, I took a walk to the little brook close by;,
going along the shore towards the south. At this part the
shore is broad and sandy, sloping gradually into the lake ; on
the landward side it rises into dunes, but falls away again beyond
them. The vegetation is identical with that described above.
After thirteen minutes' walking I turned away from the lake,
crossed the sandy fringe obliquely, and soon reached a tract
of open wooded country, the trees being mostly acacias, covered
all over with the nests of the weaver-bird (Hyphantormis abys-
simica), beside which the twittering males were keeping watch.
In the neighbourhood of the brook the vegetation becomes
richer and more plentiful,. The brook itself, which bears the
name of Kachoro, is nearly six feet wide, and in level places
about a foot and a half deep. At the time of our visit it had
inundated a large part of the land adjoining it, and formed
several pretty little cascades, and pools of still water rest-

184 A BAIL UPON THE ADLEERT LAKE.

ing on a sandy bottom. It issues from a mountain ravine,
and has clear cold water all the year through,. This alone is
used for drinking by the people of Kibfro, for they state
that the waters of the lake are salt-a belief which finds credit
with our Arabs here, who call the lake Bahr-el-Malakh, t.¢.,
salt-lake. The only real difference is this, that the water in
the lake is soft, and always a little warm.

On my way back I noticed in the tall grass a great number
of cylindrical fungi, about 1.6 to z.0 in. high, and 4 in. in
diameter. The crown consisted of a small brown closely-set
cap, often punctured with holes; the stalk was smooth, and
pale yellow in colour. The whole of the frame was shiny, and
gave out the odour of rotten fungus. - From the troughs in the
saltworks I captured some specimens of the pretty little plover
(Zgialites pecuarius), which frequents them in numbers, and
on the lake-side a beautiful Buteo augur, var. nigra, which was
busy catching mice-both birds being novelties in our country.
I also procured some specimens of a tick, called by the Wanyoro
bilbo, which is greatly dreaded by Negroes, and, to judge from
the size of the creature, their fear is not ill grounded. They
employ a curious remedy against its attacks ; a scale of the pan-
golin (Manis sp.), calcined and pulverised, is mixed into a salve
with fat, and the preparation is then applied superficially.
Ocymum canum is also useful for the same purpose.

By noon we had all our baggage on board and steam up,
and with a strong south-west wind, which whipped the lake
into short white waves, we started on our return journey. The
steamer was full of sheep and goats. Every one of my people
had been eager to purchase these animals, as well as salt and
tobacco; and in order to encourage them in this commerce, I
had given them some ox-hides and a quantity of cowries. We
soon left the villages of Kibiro behind us, steering parallel to
the uninhabited foreshore towards the north, where the hills
appeared to be quite as lofty and as steep as at Kibfro. The
western shore was again enveloped in mist.

Our little boat rode gaily over the waves, but when we got
about a mile and a quarter out into the lake she began to roll
so much that the majority of my people were again helpless with
sea-sickness, and most of them did not raise their heads again

RETURN TO WADELAT 185

until towards evening, when we neared Boli's village. We
were soon so far from the eastern shores that it was impossible
to sketch the contour of its banks. About one o'clock the hills
on the west began to peep through the mist. Our course was
almost a straight line towards the north-north-east, but the
strong cross wind kept us back somewhat. Towards three
o'clock we came in sight of the island of Tunguru, but we kept
to the open lake, and could now distinguish the eastern shore
again, as well as the chain of hills that curves away towards
Masindi. - Throughout this course, and also off Kibiro, we saw
no traces of Pistia rosettes either on the shore or on the lake,
whereas the -whole of the west side is full of them. At four
o'clock we passed the island. - Gradually approaching the west
shore, we steamed past the wood, off which we had spent the
stormy night on the outward journey, and where we now saw
large fires burning, which gave us a fine evening illumination
of both land and lake. About 5.32 p.m. we once more cast
anchor before Boki's village of Fanyumori. - The way home to
Wiadelai was the same as that by which we came out.

(=186 )

I11,
THP MoN BPU TTC COUNTER Y

 

1. A Vistr to tar Moxcurty (1993).

(Written at Lado, November 1883.)

THE WELLE AND THE KIBALI-A DESCRIPTION OF THE STEPPE-ANCIENT
CULTIYVATION-WOODED "SINKS" - RESULTS OF DENUDATION- THE
ARCHITECTURE OF THE MONBUTTU-THE ORIGIN OF THE MUNDU-
FOOD-AGRICULTURE-CANNIBALISM-THE "BUSHMEN " OFP THIS Dis-
TRICT - AKKA ARMS -THE MONBUTTU FORESTS—YANGARA’S PALACE
-TRIBAL MIGRATIONS - THE ELEMENTS WHICH COMPOSE THE MOX-
BUTTU PEOPLE OF TO-DAY - MONBUTTU WOMEN - ABUNDANCE OF
INDIARUBBER - DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS-IRON ORE-OUR RAPID
RETURN.

AT noon on the 16th of June 1883, after a long and tire-
some march through the grassy waves of the sun-scorched
steppe, we stood at last on the brink of the Welle, the large
river which rolls its waters towards the west. It is enclosed
in steep clayey banks and edged with lofty trees. The breadth
of the stream and its freedom from all reeds and from old-
river-channels give a youthful aspect to this "Son of the
Mountains." One could not help wondering whence the
mysterious river came and whither it went. Dr. Junker's
extensive and splendid exploring work has left hardly a
doubt as to the connexion of the Welle with the Shari,
and has been a great step towards the solution of the latter
question." - The former, however, remains undecided, the more
so as the A-Midi of Logo, whose mountain territory is divided

* This doubt appears to be now removed by the discovery of the great tributary
of the Congo, the Mobangi, by Mr. Grenfell, and by the latest discoveries of Dr.
Junker.-F. R.

CROSS THE WELLE. 187

by the river called by them the Obbi, declare that the Kibi is
only a tributary of the Kibali, and that this river comes in a
long sweep from the south-east.

I have spoken of the Welle and Kibali ; it may, therefore, be
advisable to explain these names here. If a traveller comes
from the north accompanied by interpreters, and asks
them the name of the river, they call it Makwa, an appellation
which it retains as long as it flows through the territory of the
A-Zande. - Besides this name, however, the word Welle, which
signifies "river," "stream" par excellence, is in general use
among them, but is entirely unknown to the Monbuttu, who
call the Makwa, where it traverses their country, simply Kibali
(also meaning " stream ").

We gained the southern bank in a swift canoe, and there
entered Monbuttu proper, the wonders of which I had long
wished to see But the first march, as far as the village
Nédada, situated an hour's journey from the river, afforded
nothing of particular interest. After climbing the somewhat
steep slope of the river-bank, the road led us through a steppe
covered with gigantic grass. The light grey soil, intermixed
with an abundance of vegetable ashes, lies on a substratum
of sharp granite fragments, and is therefore unable to retain
sufficient moisture for the development of tall-growing vegeta-
tion. What trees exist are low and have thin stems, but they
display a greater profusion of foliage than is found in the north;
this is particularly striking in the Vitex and Sarcocephalus,
which are extremely common. - " Gallery" woods skirted the
brooks, but even these contained no tree of any great size.
The little village presented in contrast a very pleasing appear-
ance. Round a clean open space, in the centre of which were
rows of juicy, green, young manioc-stalks, the huts, with their
tall conical roofs, formed a large circle, bordered along one-half
of its circumference by the Naponga brook, its wooded margin
forming a charming background to the light grey soil and fresh
straw-coloured huts. The inhabitants of the district adjoining
the river are Mari, a Momvil tribe, who at the present day use
the same language as the Monbuttu, and resemble them in
appearance. - Dwelling by the river-side, in villages lying far
apart, they attend chiefly to the ferries, but also engage in

188 A VISIT FO THE MONBUTTC.

fishing, in hunting the hippopotamus and crocodile, and, to a
very small extent, in agriculture. - Of course there was no trace
of cattle; neither were dogs to be seen. As the inhabitants
had retired, leaving us their empty huts, it was impossible to
learn anything further about them or to get any information
about the country. Our zoological gains were also small,
being confined to some handsome spiders and a graceful prickly
mole.

The elevation of the ground on the other side of the Nédada
somewhat changed the aspect of the country, and though the
steppe continued for some time, the appearance of bog iron
proved that we were on the ascent. As soon-as we reached
the Zinwe brook, and descended to its " gallery " wood, we saw
harbingers of another vegetation in the pretty fronds of the
Raphia palm. The steppe shrank in proportion as the brooks
and threads of water became more numerous, and the vegeta-
tion developed an astounding luxuriance. As far as the Numa
rivulet, it had been confined to the bottom-lands, but from
that rivulet onwards another feature made its appearance. The
whole of this region must have been formerly cultivated, to
judge from abandoned banana plantations and manioc grown
up as high as trees. When the villages were deserted, the
fields ran wild, and became covered with a multitude of plants,
which grew up vigorously in the loosened soil, and filled up all
the intervals, so that one has now the rare pleasure of march-
ing along a narrow path between uninterrupted walls of vege-
tation, in which cultivated plants rival in luxuriance the proper
children of the woods. In the midst of this mass of trees and
plants, small clearings were formed, full of huts and sheds, and
here groups of women were following their household occupa-
tions, generally surrounded by numerous children, in which the
Monbuttu seem to be particularly rich. Three stones placed
upright formed the hearth ; a big-bellied pot bubbled over the
fire, but what it contained-whether the fatty larvse of beetles
or monkey fleeh-we were not able to learn. - Large numbers
of extraordinarily small fowls, mostly white, paraded round
the huts in the banana and manioc plantations, and here and
there a liver-coloured dog of the small Zand@ breed yelped ;
on all sides the song of birds resounded : an idyll in the land of

 

WATER AS A GEOLOGICAL AGENT, 189

cannibals. - It speaks well for the security felt in the country
and the rare appearance of beasts of prey, that all these comj
pounds scattered in the wood are free from any disturbance,
and the isolated huts, which have boards placed against the
entrance, thus forming a door, need them chiefly for protec-
tion from the cool air of night.

Every step towards the south and west unfolded new
pictures; splendid woodland scenery, swamps and jungles,
where the overpowering beauty of the vegetable world concealed
the difficulty of travel, seribes and villages, clearings for new
crops, banana plantations and yam-fields, streams and brooklets
on every side. - The country rose more and more when we had
passed through Negiuinda, where Mbaga, Gambari's brother, lives.
Blocks of granite cropped out on the numerous hills, which must
be regarded as the remains of ranges that have been washed
away, and the paths down to the brooks gradually became steeper.
It is curious to march through a narrow strip of steppe land,
and become all of a sudden aware of a dark row of what appear
to be dwarf trees lying on the ground, then, coming nearer, to
find a descent of from sixty to a hundred feet, and the dwarfs
changed into very giants, for they are rooted in the depths below,
while only their tops are visible from the level of the plain.
The frequent landslips also deserve mention. The farther one
pushes in Monbuttu towards the west, that is, in the direction
in which the country slopes, the deeper grows the stratum of
reddish-brown mould which overlies the clay and the bare rock ;
the more luxuriant, too, becomes the vegetation covering the
ground, and the more rapidly proceeds the formation of humus
produced by its decay. As this loose soil is, moreover, soaked
with water throughout the year, small causes, such as the fall
of a tree, are capable of producing a gap, and once a point of
less resistance has been created, the erosive action of the water
flowing towards it from all directions accomplishes the rest. If
the water has once succeeded in forcing its way out, the original
hole becomes transformed into a ravine, which grows wider and
wider as the process of disintegration proceeds, and deeper and
deeper, through the excavating action of the water flowing along
its bottom. When vegetation has taken possession of the
slopes, we have one of those innumerable threads of water with

190 t vVISTF TO THE MOKXBUTITIV.

which Monbuttu is covered as with a net. If, however, the
first fissure occurs in a place where there is not enough water
to accomplish the process just described, the hollow, which, to
begin with, is usually round, becomes deepened by rain falling
into it, and widened through the slipping in of its edges; and
if then, in course of time, trees grow upon the bottom of such
a "sink," the curious sight is to be seen of a wide, deep
caldron, its bottom covered with trees whose tops reach
exactly to the level of the surrounding country.

In considering the characteristic features of this country, it
is necessary to mention the little hills, isolated or standing in
groups, which are very numerous where the country slopes
towards the rivers and brooks. They are light grey in colour,
generally fifteen feet high, of conical or truncated pyramidal
form, and often of considerable breadth, sometimes entirely
grown over, but usually bare. One would certainly put
them down as great termite hills, if it were not that
the natives build their huts upon them, and that a careful
examination has failed to reveal the existence of passages con-
structed by ants. It therefore appears as if we had to deal
here with a question of the product of denudation, and this
view is borne out by the existence of similar hills on the lower
and middle Bahr-el-Jebel. At any rate, these miniature
mountains add not a little to the beauty of the landscape,
especially where three or four of them covered with huts are
scattered amongst a zseriba.

Accompanied by a very large crowd of people, and by the
deafening noise of huge horns carved out of elephants' tusks,
we reached the village of Jondi ; its numerous huts were scattered
over the ground which sloped down to the Bogboro stream, and
were surrounded by a wood of Scitamines. Plantations of oil-
palms became more frequent from this point, and lent a charm to
the village, which was also rendered attractive by its picturesque
hall-like buildings, and by the cleanliness and obliging manner of
its inhabitants. - The walls of many of the buildings were orna-
mented in quite a peculiar style; long strips of bark (Xilopia
were fastened to the reed walls and sewn together with
split rattan, covering the entire wall and having the appear-
ance of mosaic. The open space situated in the centre of the

THE RAINY SEASON. 191

village contained the meeting-hall, which looked particularly
pretty ; it provided ample room for three or four hundred men,
and, differing from similar Monbuttu buildings, it had a hemls-
pherical roof supported by fifty high wooden pillars: - One is
at a loss to know whether most to admire the boldness of
conception-for we are in a Negro country-or the precision
of execution of such architecture, which is, indeed, only to be
found in lands such as Monbuttu, where building materials in
bamboo, rattan, ribs of palm leaves, and straight-grown trees
lighten the task of the skilful workman.

We had hardly time to look about, for the rain was threaten-
ing; and when, after an hour's march, we reached Gambari's
residence, Bellima, we scarcely managed to get our loads under
cover before a deluge of rain came down. This is the com-
mencement of the rainy season, and it seems as if it must rain
at least twice daily ; what, then, will be the humidity of the
atmosphere later on ? - No long series of meteorological obser-
vations have yet been made in Monbuttu; from what the
natives say, however, it seems that there are two distinct rainy
seasons, although no month in the year is absolutely without
rain. It is interesting to note that although the south-east
wind usually brings the rain, it frequently falls also during the
north-west wind.

Bellima is situated on the back of a ridge of hill running
along the northern bank of the little river Gadda, and is the
highest place we visited in Monbuttu. - While the thick forest
shuts out all view between the south and west, a row of stately
mountain forms appear, running from south to east, among
which is conspicuous the imposing form of Jebel Tinna. The
most northerly of the two groups is called by the collective
name of Mimi, after a little station which was once situated
there; the easterly group is called Gango. Both of them are
doubtless the last spurs of the chains that stretch from the
south end of the Albert Lake, across the country of the Loggo
and A-Maidi, and trend away towards Monbuttu. All the rivers
flowing through Monbuttu-Makwa, Bomokandi, Nava, and
others, excluding perhaps small and local brooks, rise in those
mountains; and the great abundance of water in Monbuttu
may perhaps be explained by the fact that the country lies just

192 A vYISTT FQ. PHE MONBUTTU.

at the foot of that high land and extends parallel to it, re-
ceiving at first hand the total rainfall from two rainy regions.
If we remember, too, that the moist south and south-west
winds blowing from the Congo basin precipitate all their
moisture upon these mountains, that numerous large streams
accumulate within a small area, and evaporation is prevented by
the abundant woods, we shall cease to wonder at the immense
amount of water in the country. - The high undulating district
around Gambari's village is very thickly populated, yet the
zeribas hardly strike the eye, because they are situated in
clearings in the woods or are shut in by high reeds, through
which only narrow footpaths wind.

Except the servant class, which in Monbuttu is chiefly re-
cruited from Momvi, the inhabitants belong principally to the
race of Bamba, called by the A-Zandé, A-Bangba (Schweinfurth's
Abanga), and appear to descend from the original inhabitants
of the country ; they have a language of their own, but have
adopted the customs as well as the speech of the ruling classes,
and are now just as good cannibals as the real Monbuttu.
According to their own account, their nearest tribal relations
are the Mundu of Makrakia, who no doubt were separated from
them by the immigration of the A-Zande and driven towards
the north. Some members of the Mundu tribe who had
accompanied us were received in a very friendly way by their
ex-countrymen, and conversed with them in a language totally
different from the Monbuttu. The Mundu of to-day are an
exceedingly industrious agricultural people, and one hears, in
Makrakd at least, nothing of cannibalism, although the near
neighbours of the Mundu, the Babukur, who also came from
the south, where they are known as Mayanga, have remained
true to the horrible custom of their homes. However, since
I have seen the eagerness with which the Bombe of
who belong to the Iddio division of the A-Zande, offered to
clean skulls, the matter appears to me rather suspicious, and
I am inclined to state that the Bamba as well as the Mundu
still hold to their old customs, and continue them in private.
Apart from this, the Bamba are friendly, pleasant people,
clever and handy, and they possess a very good eye for neat-

CANNIBALISM. 193

ness and symmebry ; to this their roomy huts, their stools
and forms, as well as their ironwork, bear witness.

There is naturally not much here that can be termed agricul-
ture, unless, for the sake of euphony, one can call the planting
of bananas, manioc, sweet potatoes, Colocasia, occasionally yams,
and much tobacco " agriculture." Nature has distributed her
gifts so prodigally over the land, and made the maintenance
of the individual so easy and free from toil, that methodical
* work is unnecessary. - Indeed, it is just this that is the cause
of the standstill in the social development of the people.
The only species of corn which are brought under cultiva-
tion are maize and eleusine ; the former is found almost every-
where and in great quantities, the latter only in the eastern
part of the country, and there only to a limited extent. The
banana is everywhere the staple food of the people, and every
variety of it grows here. Fresh and dried, green and ripe,
for cooking or made into wine or. beer, it is always the
favourite fruit. Cattle do not exist here; even sheep and
goats are only to be found in the Mabode country-I saw
some fine goats from there. Flesh is therefore an article of
luxury, be it that of a fat guinea-pig, of a dried-up ape, or
of a deceased relative. Ever since the invasion of the Arabs,
cannibalism has been carried on with the greatest secrecy, at
any rate in the neighbourhood of the stations, and the good old
times have long since passed by when one could buy for copper
rings as many skulls as one desired. It was only with the
greatest difficulty that I managed to procure an almost com-
plete Akka skeleton and a few skulls. It may be quite other-
wise away from the stations ; at any rate, the following incident
proves how deep-rooted this evil custom is amongst these
people. When I asked an Akka, who had lived many years
in our stations in the north, and who was returning home
to Monbuttu, whether he was glad to go home again, he
said without hesitation that he had long since become tired
of " beef."

On the southern bank of the Gadda I found that a little
band of Akka were temporarily established right among the
Momviu who cultivate Gambari's fields. As I have previously

given some account of the gipsy life of these pigmies of the
N

194 A VISIT TO FHL MONBUCTITT.

woods, who here correspond to the bushmen of the south, I
need not repeat myself, but will only correct an error into
which even experienced explorers and collectors have fallen.
The Akka have neither lances nor spears, but make exclusive
use of the bow and arrow, and the so-called Akka lances which
have been sent to Europe are either the long Mabode or the
short Momviu weapons.

Our stay in Bellima was rendered somewhat unpleasant by
constant rain, but the little spare time I had after my official
duties were accomplished, was completely filled up indoors with
making anthropological measurements, collecting notes, making
vocabularies, and preparing and conserving specimens. The
early morning hours afforded me, however, rich and interesting
zoological spoil, but the prevailing damp was a great drawback
-never mind, a new district lies before me.

The march from Bellima to Tingazi, or Tingazizi, as its
inhabitants call it, can be accomplished in three rather long
days, that is, supposing that the two streams which have to be
forded do not either block the road or flood the land. We
had, however, no trouble of this kind, but Gambari had taken
it into his head, doubtless for some important political reason,
to lead us right through desert and primeval forest, avoiding
all the villages, and although this gave me the opportunity of
becoming acquainted with a good specimen of unadulterated
African scenery, it caused us an extra day's march.

I have mentioned woods so often, that it may be well to
explain what I mean by them. It is a mistake to imagine
that on entering Monbuttu from the north you will immediately
meet with dark impenetrable woods. Magnificent " gallery "
woods, in which all the marvels of vegetation unfold them-
selves before the enchanted gaze, often border to a considerable
distance even the smallest brook. . Every declivity in the
ground is covered by trees and bushes, and on the old clearings
and the cultivated spots, Flora's wild and cultured offspring
are mingled, forming often completely impenetrable walls. The
region, however, of immense forests, in which one may wander
for hours without seeing a sunbeam, and where one hears the
rain beating upon the summits of the trees without feeling a
drop, commences only a little to the west of the A-Zande

VEGETATION, 195

district, ruled over by Chief Kanna. I have seen such stretches
of primitive forest in Monbuttu, and there is no doubt that
this country was originally quite covered with forests, to judge
from the remains of virgin woods which still exist. The
gradual disappearance of the forest is to be attributed to the
comparatively thick population, the constant removal of villages
and fields, and to the inroads of both axe and fire. When I
have seen the relics of ages long past, the gigantic frames of
trees, thrown across the way, having been cut down and given
over to decay because "they spread too much shade over the
crops," I have felt that Nature herself was profaned. After
many years of wandering through these regions, I am inclined
to think that in ancient times the true Central African forest
region, that is, the permanence of closed woods containing
westerly species, extended much farther to the north than it
does to-day. Towards the east, as far as the district of J anda,
I have observed such curious species as Artocarpus * and An-
thocleista, whereas the valley of the Bahr-el-Jebel throughout
its whole length, as far south as the lake, points to steppe
vegetation, as also does the entire eastern district of our
provinces.

The continuous descent of the road to Tingazi shows that
the country slopes towards the west; the plateau on which
the small station of Maigo is situated alone rises a little above
the surrounding country. The Arabs have named this place
Kala'at-el-Homr ("the red hill"), on account of its being covered
by a strata of red bog ore; it forms a rich mine of iron, which
is much used and valued in the country. At its summit are
several large pools of rain-water, deeply sunk into the iron-
stone, which here presents the appearance of a rocky crust;
they are surrounded by short green velvety cushions of Sela-
ginella, upon which hundreds of little frogs assemble, while
nimble sandpipers with nodding heads listen to their con-
cert. An hour before reaching Tingazi, Nenja, the residence
of the Monbuttu prince Yangara, was passed ; it is situated
upon a high hill, and commands an extensive view. In

* True Artocarpus does not exist in tropical Africa. The writer refers to
Myrianthus, a species of this family also found in western tropical Africa ; the
African Trumpet-tree (Musanga) should be mentioned in connexion with this
subject. -G. S.

196 A VISIT To TRE MONBUTIIT.

the central open space of this village there are some fine
buildings, several of them with open sides, and serving as
meeting-places, others with walls made of pieces of bark, and
in use as private houses. - Round about the space were
grouped the servants' huts. 'The prince's zeribe, enclosed by
a strong fence of palisades, lay somewhat to the side, and
consisted of comparatively few huts, occupied by his favourite
wives. As in other Monbuttu villages, there were spaces set
apart expressly for cooking operations; these are not found
among other Negro tribes. Near the principal door leading
from the prince's zerib@ to the square there is a small secret
door, intended to be used, in case of need, for flight into the
neighbouring " gallery " wood. The Monbuttu princes are no
heroes ; they take to heart above all the command to " be fruit-
fall," &c.

Tingazi, the present capital of the country from an adminis-
trative point of view, lies in the worst possible position between
the " gallery " woods of three streams, on ground swarming with
termites. The damp during my short stay was so great that the
wet and dry bulb thermometers at 7 A.M. usually showed only
a difference of 0.9° to 1.80° C., and at 2 P.M. the variation was
hardly 5° to 7° C.; this great humidity probably continues for
a considerable part of the year. It is easy to understand that
under such circumstances even my double tin-cases hardly
sufficed to protect my collections.

In Tingazi the population is chiefly composed of Bambad,
who previously (in Schweinfurth's time) resided much farther
north of the Welle, but who were gradually driven more and
more to the south on account of the constant A-Zandé migra-
tion towards the east, which migration continues to the present
day. Among the Bamba I noticed many Nyapi, another of
those aboriginal races which help to form the conglomerate
population of Monbuttu. Without extensive philological re-
search, it is difficult to distinguish the original inhabitants of
the country from the immigrants-the Monbuttu-and, on the
other hand, to determine the various constituents of the former
and the real origin of the latter. If one makes inquiry in the
country about the component parts of the Monbuttu people,
one is given a long row of names, such as Meaje, Mabisanga,

ADMIXTURE OF TRiBEs, 197

Mabode, A-Birambo, Nyapi, &c., of which a large proportion
have as little claim to being real Monbuttu as the Momvi,
the Logo, and other of their neighbours. And yet to-day all
the tribes just mentioned are so firmly cemented together by
intermarriage, intermixture, habits, customs, and even language
that they not only acknowledge themselves to be subdivisions
of one Monbuttu people, but also feel themselves tbo be so,
The fact, moreover, remains-and there are a number of similar
ones in our country-that the Monbuttu language proper has,
to a large extent, replaced the original language, and that the
people, who neither are Monbuttu, and who do not appear to
be related to them, have acquired their habits; this must be
borne in mind when examining the ethnology of the country.

I would like to add another remark bearing on this subject.
In the collection of what are called typical skulls, very great
care is necessary. - It is well known that skulls are of no value
if collected 'within reach of Arab settlements, or in the border-
land of two tribes, but one has also to be most careful even
in the centre of a district belonging to any one tribe. - The
intermingling of separate tribes and peoples in Central Africa
consequent upon war, plundering raids, dividing of the spoil in
women, slavery and exchange of slaves, and in a much less
degree on intermarriage, has brought to pass such a state of
confusion, that it is almost impossible to obtain skulls of really
pure race. - Dr. Schweinfurth gives an instance of a Zande who
was introduced to him as a Bongo chief. In the centre of
Unyoro I found a large number of Waginda women. - During
my stay in Uginda hundreds of women were brought into the
country from Usoga and distributed through the land, and as
expeditions are sent there annually, and the Wasoga do not
appear to be of Bantu origin, the constant crossing must in the
end have a decided influence. Whether the great variation in
the colour of the skin observable among all Negro tribes is to
be attributed to these mixed relationships I do not venture
yet to decide.

Since the scientific discovery of Monbuttu, the habits and
customs of the people have hardly changed at all, in spite of
the Arab invasion. One man here and there may have learnt
to clothe himself in rags of stuff, and to hang a rosary round

198 A VISIT TO THE MONBUIETC.

his neck in the presence of Arabs, but the latter have exerted
no palpable influence on the physical and moral condition of
the people generally. There is not even any progress visible
in the implements of wood and iron used for the cultivation
of the soil, and yet I repeatedly came across saws, files, &e.
The fault, then, probably lies on the part of those who have been
too idle to teach the people. I have no doubt at all that, with
very little trouble, one could make the Monbuttu into exceed-
ingly clever workmen ; but this can only be accomplished by
men who do not hold work to be degrading, not by those who,
though acquainted with the art of weaving, allow the cotton
to rot in the fields, and prefer to clothe themselves, like the
Negroes, in bark cloth or skins. | I would also mention
another excellent point about the Monbuttu, which is, that
drunkenness seems to me to prevail less among them than
elsewhere; unfortunately, they have learnt the secret of the
manufacture of brandy, but I have not seen any drunkenness.
It would be an injustice not to refer to the fair sex, who
play such an important 70/e in Monbuttu, and are the cause of
all the misfortune from which the country suffers. At the
very beginning of the invasion, the intruders seem to have
found pleasure in the daughters of the land, and those at least
who remained in the country married there according to the
native customs, after paying a small price for their brides.
The first dissensions arose as a result of this intermarriage,
some of the invaders wishing to take their wives out of the
country ; and the war against Munza, which cost him his life,
and created an entirely new state of affairs in Monbuttu, was
undertaken on account of a woman whom Munza refused to
give to an Arab. As far as I had opportunity of seeing and
getting to know Monbuttu women, I always found them very
decent in their behaviour. Their dress certainly would hardly
be permissible for church-going; but, for the rest, they are
said to be affectionate and teachable, and therefore favourites
with the Arabs. A surprising number of them have light
yellow, almost Egyptian, colour of skin; these are not patho-
logical phenomena, like the albinos, but perfectly normal
individuals, with a light fundamental pigment. Such women
are particularly admired, and I must confess that their appear-

NATURAL PRODUCTS, 199

ance in the midst of their more dusky sisters does take one
rather by surprise. Children of Monbuttu women and Egoyp-
tian or light-coloured Berber fathers have a yellow skin, while
those of the same fathers by A-Zanda mothers are light copper-
red, and if by Bari, Dinka, or Mittu mothers they are blackish-
brown.

The remarks I have made above apply also to the neigh-
_ bourhood of Tingazi. The soil is rich and productive, and
where the termites permit cultivation, a harvest of maize
can be reaped three times in the year. Nevertheless, no one
thinks of a systematic cultivation, for there are bananas and
maniocs in abundance, and the forest affords, besides, large
quantities of fruits. Conspicuous among the latter is the
orange-coloured fruit of an Anona, of a sweet-sour taste ; also
the beautiful pink cola-nuts, which are very abundant, the
cone-shaped fruits of caoutchoue tendrils, the gourd fruits of
two kinds of Artocarpus,* the peach-like apple of the Myristica,
which grows also in Uginda, various kinds of Amomum, and
many other fruits.

There is but little cattle, and the sheep and goats are
mostly brought from the south, where large herds are said to
be kept upon the wide plains of the Mabode country. I was
assured by the prince Sanga, one of Munza's brothers, that
Munza's cows, mentioned by Schweinfurth, came from the
neighbouring country of Logo, where, no doubt, there exist
large herds. The name " Maoggu" is identical with Logo,
ma being the Monbuttu plural article (Maloggo). The salt
to be seen here is not brought from the west, but from the
Mabode country. I saw some large perfectly cone-shaped
pieces of it at Gambari's, which had been sent to him by his
brother Arama. It is tolerably clean and white, but has a slightly
bitter after-taste, which could be got rid of by repeated evapora-
tion. Among the various products, caoutchouc is destined, if
developed in a natural manner, to become the greatest source of
prosperity to the country. Great quantities of it could be
obtained with a little trouble and a few presents; and since
I have shown the natives how to thicken the milky juice
without the addition of water, in order to prevent the formation

* See note on p. 195.

200 A4 vVISPF TO THE.MONBUCTITTU.

of cavities in the interior of the pieces, the quality of the
product was become in every respect faultless. Samples of
palm-oil were collected to send to the north. The further
cultivation of this product is to be attempted in Makraka.

A residence of nine days filled in with official occupation
is naturally insufficient for' the acquisition of exhausting
notes concerning a country and its inhabitants. As, however,
both the geography and ethnology of this country have been
worthily represented through the industrious work of Junker
and Casati, I was all the more anxious to devote every free
moment to collecting, in order at least to obtain an insight into
the hitherto totally unknown fauna of the land. If Dr. Schwein-
farth's botanical researches had already proved that, in regard
to vegetation, Monbuttu forms the transition from the north-east
African region to that of tropical west Africa, the supposition still
needed proof as far as concerned its fauna. - Schweinfurth's
list of animals certainly contains Troglodytes niger and Potamo-
chcerus penicillatus, but the rest are animals of much wider
distribution over the continent. Though I may not have
succeeded in enriching this list very largely, there are at least
indications to be derived from the discovery of an entirely black
Cercopithecus, which occurs in addition to Cercopithecus sabeus,
a small Galago, an Anomalurus, an Atherura, a new genet, a
flat-tailed squirrel, and quite a large number of other new
Rodents. Birds are even more abundant. Forms of so decided
a character as the Turacus, Musophaga, Corythaix, Amblyospiza,
Spermospiza, Tricholsma, and several Trichophorus, as well as
quite a list of Nectarinidse unknown in the north, determine
the ornithological position of the country. As the same holds
good in regard to the amphibians and reptiles, and also, though
less completely, to the Lepidoptera which have been collected,
I believe I may be permitted to hold that Monbuttu, both in
respect to its fauna and flora, presents a transition to the
tropical west, the " West African sub-region of Wallace." - The
presence of north-easterly and easterly species is occasioned by
the steppe zone extending into the proper forest zone. - Further
investigations will help to fix exactly the line of demarcation
in special regions.

I was not able to learn anything of Monbuttu's possible:

MINERAL WEALTH, 201

mineral riches. The presence of such is, indeed, hardly to be
expected, at least to judge by the geological formation of that
part of the country which up to the present time has been
occupied. Iron is obtained, as in the surrounding districts,
from bog ore, and in the form of plates it serves as an article
of barter. The presence of metallic iron-the Negroes assert
that it is meteoric iron *-at Jebel Tinna, or Tenna, was
previously reported, and samples of it were sent to Europe. I
may just note in passing that there are vague reports of the
presence of coal (brown coal ?) in the south-east. - But so long
as the Egyptian Government does not interest itself in an
exploration of the land to the east and south of Monbuttu,
perhaps as far as the Congo (really not a difficult task), many
weighty questions regarding this country will remain unan-
swered, May the near future bring us a better prospect!
Further investigations were rendered impossible by the late
season of the year and my desire to pass through the Logo
district before the occurrence of high water. On our return
journey to Gambari's headquarters we had found all the rivers
very swollen and many flooded, so that a two days' stay at
Bellima, where we had to wait for porters, had been a well-
earned rest. Unfortunately, bad news reached us here from
the north, so that we were compelled to retrace our steps just
when we had reached the entrance to the unknown, to give
up all the enticing projects of a journey towards the east, and
to choose at once the most direct path to the north. Accord-
ingly, we took the old road from Bellima to Mbaga's village,
Negunda, where a new station is to be built. From here we
struck a new path, which brought us to the confluence of the
Dongu with the Kibali. The configuration of the country was
very monotonous, but we passed two rocky mounds called
Mellu. The descent towards the river on the other side of these
rocks presented a striking change in the character of the vege-
tation. The plants were just like those seen on steppes, large-
leaved and leathery, and there were no high trees. The rapid

* The stone is hematite. Concerning the stone axe which came from Jebel
Tinna, which was made from that stone by a totally different race to the one
inhabiting Monbuttu, the reader will find information in the " Zeitschrift fiir
Ethnologie," vol. xvi., Verhandlungen, page 294.-G. S. and R. Axorer.

plow NOTES ON THE MONBUITUT.

drainage down the sloping ground causes periodical droughts,
and the ground near the river is much more sandy and poorer
than that lying farther away. The inhabitants become more
sparse the farther one proceeds towards the north, so that one
is prepared for the broad uninhabited grass steppe of the
A-Zande country on the other side of the river. On the
18th of July we arrived opposite the confluence of the Dongu,
precisely a month from the time we first crossed it, and we
said good-bye to Monbuttu, sincerely hoping for a speedy
return.

z. NotEs on tur MoxBurty.

ORIGIN-ABORIGINES-BAMBA-MOMYVG 'AGRICULTURISTS—POLITICAL OR-
GANISATION-FOOD-CANNIBALISM GENERAL-SMOKING-COLA NUTS
-BEER AND WINE-MATRIMONIAL-BIRTH AND BURIAL-THE FAIR
BEX-CLOTHING-DANCING AND MUSIC-CIRCUMCISION.

Ter Monbuttu occupy an entirely unique position among our
Negro races in regard to bodily constitution and mental
characteristics. They say that their ancestors came from the
north-west, passed on their march a great lake or sheet of
water having no outlet, remained there for a time, and at last
reached the Kibali, on the north bank of which they took up
their residence for a long period. After a time, small bodies
went over the river, and having increased in numbers,
they proceeded to conquer the country, and compelled the
A-Zande, who were pressing in from the west, to deviate from
their line of advance. Friendly relations between these two
people seem never to have been established, the Monbuttu
always considering themselves superior to the A-Zande, and
never willingly giving them their daughters in marriage. The
original inhabitants of the country bordering the Kibali are
said to have consisted of different tribes, without any proper
rulers, such as the Momvii, the Abarambo, &c., who, although
partially assimilated, still hold an inferior social position. Even
at that period the Akka led the same roving, hunting life which
they still follow. ;

SERVILE TRIBES. 103

The chief Monbuttu tribes are as follows :-Meaje-Majo
(fifteen tribes), Maudi, Mabisanga, Majo, Bamba, Mabode,
Mamberé, Nyapu, Abdarambo, Abre, Mberi, Bote, and Mayanga.
They now speak the same language, although perhaps different
dialects, but some of them at least have languages of their
own. The Mabisanga are credited with having been the first
to cultivate the oil-palm, which they introduced from the
south-west.

The Bamba and the Mayanga have a special interest for
us. The former are found again in the Makraka district as
" Mundu," and there speak their own language, which differs
entirely from the surrounding Makraka idiom. The A-Zande
call them Abangba, and I am inclined to identify them with
Schweinfurth's Abanga. It is remarkable, however, that a
long residence in the Makraka district should have transformed
these cannibals into industrious tillers of the soil. The Ma-
yanga, too, are already known to us, for they are identical with
the Babukur, who live on the western border of Makraka, and
in the Bahr-el-Ghazal district, and are still dreaded cannibals.
We have here, therefore, to do with two southern tribes, whom
the Zande invasion not only cut off from their kinsmen in the
south, but drove far to the northward, where, up to the present
day, they occupy an isolated position in the midst of other
tribes.

The Momvi, who are smaller and considerably blacker than
the Monbuttu, are found as servants in the households of the
wealthier Monbuttu. Almost all agricultural occupations de-
volve upon them, and both sexes enjoy a high and well-merited
reputation as field-hands. They occupy large territories to the
east and south-east of the country, where agriculture flourishes,
but their possessions are plundered by the Monbuttu con amore,
especially when they are wanting meat.

The constitution of the Monbuttu is an extremely simple
one. The great chiefs are hereditary dignitaries, the royal
power descending from father to son, whom the younger
brothers are bound to, and usually do, obey. If there is no
grown-up son, the brother or next male relation succeeds ;
this arrangement also holds good during the minority of heirs
proper. Instances are said to have happened in which the

204 NOTES ON THE MONXNBUTTU.

substituted brother of the deceased so ingratiated himself with
the people that he remained in possession after the majority
of the real heir, who only received his honours at the death
of the regent. It also sometimes happens that, should there
be several brothers of nearly the same age, the popular voice
decides that not the eldest but the cleverest and most respected
of them shall ascend the throne, and this is arranged without
. war or the shedding of blood. The rejected candidates retire
quietly into private life, and as a matter of fact the relations
of chiefs differ in no way from the rest of the people. The
sub-chiefs were originally appointed by the ruler, but as they
are not dismissed from their posts unless well-founded com-
plaints are made against them, and are even allowed to remain
in office on the accession of a new ruler, who thus gains their
support, they virtually constitute an hereditary nobility. At
the same time, the right of the ruler to appoint his sub-chicfs
and to dismiss them is fully admitted. - Individuals who greatly
distinguish themselves, or render special services, even should
they belong to the servile class, are rewarded by grants of
land in sparsely peopled districts or on the borders. - There
the new chief is at once afforded an opportunity of proving his
capacity by attracting people, by founding a village, cultivating
the land, and conquering and pacifying the frontier districts.
The laws of succession in Monbuttu have, however, been
completely upset by the interference of the Danagla, by whom
so-called " Dragomans" were raised to be chiefs in place of
the legitimate rulers, and put in possession. Thus, the
larger part of Munza's old district is to-day in the hands of
Gambari, the son of a smith, who, again, appointed his brothers
to be sub-chiefs, although the legitimate rulers, Munza's sons
and nephews, are still alive. Quite recently the official entrusted
with the government of Monbuttu has not hesitated to appoint
Wando's son, Mbittima, to the post of the exiled Mambanga,
as chief of the Mabisanga, although this Mbittima is a Zande,
and not a Monbuttu. - It is easy to conceive that such arbitrary
proceedings have produced great confusion in connexion with
the territorial titles, and that pretexts for disputes are constantly
cropping up. I therefore at once set to work to find out all
I could as to the legitimacy of the present rulers, and as the

MONBUTTU PEDIGREES. 205

A-Zandé as well as the Monbuttu make a great point of

- direct descent (on the father's side, of course), it was pretty

easy to get to the bottom of the matter.

The great Monbuttu chiefs are as follows :- Yangara, Deg-
berra's son; Gambari, a usurper; Kadabo, ditto ; Sanga, sur-
named "the little" by the Arabs, who is one of Munza's
nephews, and Sanga, "the great," one of Munza's brothers.
Besides these there is quite a number of smaller chiefs.

As already indicated, both Gambari and Kadabo are not
entitled to their present positions, especially as the legitimate
heirs are living. In Kadabo's case, however, this legitimate
heir is not a very able man, and as his territory is occupied by
Momvi and not by Monbuttu, he might with propriety be
allowed to hold his place during good conduct. With Gambari
it is quite different; for, prudent yet perfidious, he has learnt
all the tricks and underhand practices of the Danagla, and
whilst obsequious and ingenuous in appearance, the meshes of
his intrigues have been drawn over the whole of the country.
That he is not thought much of in the upper circles of Mon-
buttu society is proved by the fact that even at the present
day, after having been many years in possession, he dare not
sit down in the presence of Yangara or Sanga without their
inviting him to do so. Naturally he tries to revenge himself
for his false position by all sorts of wicked tricks, and it is
quite possible that the time is not so very far distant when,
for the sake of the general peace, his removal will become
necessary.

Of the two Sangas, the one is the son of Muapa, Munza's
eldest brother, the other is Munza's younger brother, both of
them, therefore, legitimate chiefs belonging. to the family of
Era; while Yangara, whose numerous brothers (Kupa, Benda,
Bondu, &e.) have been removed, descends through his father
from the family of Ndula, and may also be considered as of
pure blood. This ancestor, Ndula, had remained on the other
side of the Kibali, but had given his daughter, Degberra's
sister, and a renowned beauty, to Nabimbali, the son of Man-
ziggi, and brother of Tukuba (Munza's father), thereby found-
ing the relationship between the two principal lines.

The rulers of the country do not levy regular taxes, but the

206 NOTES On THE MONXBUTITC.

chiefs are expected to appear before them from time to time,
when they bring with them presents of girls, cattle, eggs, bark
cloth, &c. During the time of their residence at the court,
the sovereign is bound to find them in food, which accounts
for the great crowd of servants, and especially wives, belonging
to each chief, for upon them devolves the cultivation of the
fields.

Three meals daily are taken in Monbuttu, the hut of each
wife furnishing the chief with one dish, contained in a wooden
bowl, and floating in palm-oil, the chief himself distributing
the food with his own hands. A chief may not eat in public,
but takes his meals in the hut of his favourite wife, who waits
upon him, and all that is left after he is satisfied, and has given
some to his wife, is buried. As there are hardly any cattle in
the country, the meals consist chiefly of vegetables, which
nature supplies in great variety. - The menu includes roots of
all kinds-yams, manioc, of which only the sweet variety grows
here (the poisonous kind is common in the A-Zandé country),
Helmia, sweet potatoes, sesame, a little eleusine (no durrah, and
still less Penicillaria, for which, indeed, there is no word),
gourds of various kinds, Colocasias, and a great variety of
fruits, but the staple food is always and everywhere the
- banana, both fresh and dried. If we add to the above game
of various kinds, including even monkeys flesh (but not the
flesh of lions, elephants, or snakes), as also fowls and eggs, all
kinds of birds, and, as tit-bits, the fat laryse of insects, the cutsine
cannot be said to be badly supplied, especially as human flesh
has to be added to the bill of fare.

It is a lamentable fact that the practice of cannibalism,
though concealed in the neighbourhood of the stations, is at
the present day just as widespread as when the Arabs invaded
the country, and that hardly any one is buried, and corpses
are bartered as before. Men who abstain from human flesh
are the exception, just as with the A-Zandé, and chiefs like
Wando and Yangara owe part of their reputation among their
countrymen to this cireumstance. - Neither do the Akka despise
human flesh ; of this I have repeatedly had proof.

Tobacco, beer, and cola-nuts are the only narcotics or in-
toxicants with which I became acquainted. - The tobacco (tobba,

NARCOTICS AND INTOXICaXTs. $97
Nicotiana virginiana) is not grown on a large scale, but its
consumption is general, and even little children are smokers.
The enormous chibuk is made out of the middle rib of a
banana-leaf, with a mouthpiece made of a twisted leaf stuck
into the broad end of it. Usually only two pulls are taken,
although the tobacco is very good and sweet ; but it is taken
for granted that the servant who carries away this huge pipe
should also take a pull. Hookahs made out of gourds are
occasionally used. Chewing tobacco has been introduced by
the Danagla, but the custom has never really taken root.

The people, however, chew the cola-nut, a flat fruit of a
beautiful pink colour, enveloped by a white covering. 'The
cola-nut tree is often found in the broad " gallery " woods of
the country, and is a tall and stately plant ; the fruit resembles
a short thick banana, with a greenish-yellow shell, split length-
ways, and containing two rows of large flat seeds in a strong
white covering. When these have been removed, pieces of
the pinky pulp are cut off and eaten, generally while smoking.
The taste is rather bitter, and produces a slight flow of saliva.
Some extol the fruit as a cure for congestion, giddiness, and
dysentery, others say that it is a good aphrodisiac. I have not
succeeded in proving its specific action.

The taste for beer is universal. It is usually prepared from
bananas, almost in the same way as in Uginda, more rarely
from eleusine. A drink like wine, rather pleasant and effer-
vescing, is obtained by macerating dry bananas in water, and
allowing them to ferment slightly. - It usually causes a slight
attack of diarrhcea in strangers, just as eating dry bananas
causes colic. On this account, the Monbuttu recommend that
the dried bananas be dipped in palm-oil before eating them.
Occasionally one is offered palm-wine obtained from the Raphia
and oil-palms. It is obtained by cutting out the pedicel, and
then collecting the sap in a jar, which is covered with a lid to
protect its contents from the rain. This operation, of course,
would ultimately destroy the tree, and must not, therefore, be
repeated too frequently. The oil-palm is of great value, for
fatty substances are very rare in the country, whilst the
demand is very brisk. Fat is here obtained from termites,
mberekati (a kind of gourd), sesame, Hyptis, the oil-palm and

208 NoTESs ON THE MONEUITTU,

the mbili-tree. The Lophira is very scarce in Monbuttu, but
abounds in the A-Zandeé country. It is hardly necessary to
state that human fat is used by preference where it can be
obtained.

In contrast to other tribes, where the upper, and especially
the ruling classes, hold themselves strictly aloof from the serv-
ing class, a certain amount of free intercourse is allowed here.
Although, as a rule, marriages take place between girls of the
better classes and their equals, yet it is common enough to see
even girls belonging to the ruling families, especially if they
are not beautifal, married to men of the people. Marriages
are always arranged by means of a go-between, who receives
the price given for the bride, part of which is delivered to the
bride's father, the remainder being reserved for her nearest
relations, and part kept back as commission. These presents
consist of slaves, cattle, and especially iron. If a ruler gives
his daughter in marriage, it is the custom to give with her
four maidens, in order that she may not go alone, and that
during the first months of married life she may have good
servants. - When women of the better classes leave their huts,
they are always accompanied by one male servant and several
maids. Although the relations which exist between servants
and masters are very cordial, obedience is strictly enforced, and
no servant is permitted to address a superior except in a stoop-
ing position, with the hands placed upon the knees.

It is not considered improper for a grown-up girl, though
a prince's daughter, to visit her lover at nights, even should he
be a servant. Should lovers wish to marry, the girl's father
is informed of the fact, and he makes a feeble attempt to
obtain payment for the bride. If the young man is rich,
the price settled upon is immediately paid ; if he is poor, the
claim is not pressed. As a rule, the women appear to have
considerable freedom in their amatory proceedings, but open
prostitution is rarely seen. It is possible, however, that in the
interior of the country, at a distance from the stations, other
customs may be in vogue. _ The marriage festivities, at which
presents have to be made to all who attend, often last for twenty
days. Polygamy is practised throughout the country on a
large scale, for wives are cheap, and may be obtained even for

BIRTH AND BURIAL 209

nothing, and a poor man desirous of entering the wedded state
need only apply to his chief in order to have his desire grati-
fied, without being called upon to make payment for his bride.

Monbuttu women are celebrated for their fecundity, and
children are looked upon as a blessing. It is a remarkable
fact that far more female children are born than males.
Sterility is a disgrace, and sometimes results in the wife being
returned to her father. - Usually, however, the husband prefers
_ to add to his wives, in the hope of obtaining children. The
Monbuttu profess to be in possession of roots which cure both
impotence and sterility. - Cases of flagrant adultery are brought
under the notice of the chief, who confiscates the property of
the adulterer, and gives two-thirds of it to the woman's father
and one-third to the injured man. The reason for this un-
- equal division is, that the father of the adultress has to provide
the injured husband with another wife, usually a sister of the
guilty woman, who generally remains in her father's house.

Women in labour lie upon the side ; cases of difficult labour
or retention of the placenta are treated by the application of
_- counter-irritating plants to the abdomen. The birth of twins
is considered to be very fortunate, and is celebrated by a great
feast, to which all neighbours bring presents. The placenta is
placed in a jar and carried in a great procession to be buried
in the middle of a road ; after this is accomplished it is
customary for every one when leaving the spot to pluck two
leaves, and after spitting upon them, to throw one to the right
hand and the other to the left. Twins are distinguished by
special names; if they are males, they are called aburi and
mabese, if females, abuda and tindade, the first name being
given to the first-born, and the second to the last-born.

When a man dies, the whole of his property goes to the
eldest son, who adds to his harem all his father's wives who
have children-except his own mother-but divides the child-
less wives among his brothers, with such portions from the
paternal property as he may think fit. At the few burials
which take place, very few ceremonies appear to be practised,
for body-snatching is the rule. The Majo, a tribe in the
Monbuttu country, appear to occupy quite an exceptional
position in this respect, for they are said to burn their dead

(0)

210 NOTES ON THE MONBUTTU,.

and scatter the ashes. - All these statements must be received
with the greatest reserve, for my informants spoke about bury-
ing with hesitation, and I myself never saw a grave. The
signs of mourning are shaving off the hair, neglect of care for
the skin, and retirement from society. A stated time of
mourning is not observed.

One beautiful feature in the character of this people is the
sympathy felt by the women for each other at the loss of their
children. Altogether the wives enjoy a much higher social
position here than among other Negro tribes ; they have to
take care of their children and attend to the cooking, but most
of the hard work, such as tilling the fields and manufacturing
pottery and mats, is done by female servants, and in her own
house as well as abroad the wife is treated with the greatest
respect. - No husband would undertake anything of importance
without first consulting his wife, and cases have often happened
in which the influence of a wife has brought to nought the
counsel of the elders.

The clothing of the men consists everywhere of bark cloth
from the bark of a Urostigma, which is called here noggi,
but is known to the A-Zandé as rokko, a name which is
now used all over the country. 'The bark cloth is originally
of a buff-colour, but it is generally dyed with red wood or
humus. It cannot compare with similar materials from Uganda
either in fineness of texture or in flexibility,. This may partly
be accounted for by the mode of preparation, partly also by
the fact that the bark is allowed to get old and tough before
being worked up. This process consists of splitting, clean-
sing of the outer side, stretching and beating with pieces of
ivory, exposure in the air and sun to extract the water, and
browning. The stretching is effected by beating and by pull-
ing. - Furrowing the cloth with fluted mallets is not known
anywhere, nor are fancy cloths met with.

While the men wear trousers of bark cloth reaching to the
breast, or at all events short drawers or two aprons, none of
them, however, being perfectly unclothed, the women's dress is
confined to an extremely doubtful covering in front. In
the presence of strangers, women, as long as they sit upon a
stool, place the belt in which they carry their children across

HEAD-DRESSES ; DANCING. 211

the lap, but as by rising they would find themselves in an
awkward predicament, they turn deftly to the right-about,
whilst still retaining their seat, hold their stool, rise while
pressing the light stool to their seats « posteriori, and in this
position move away two steps, when a distance required by an
observance of decencies is supposed to have been reached.

If little attention is paid to the clothing, all the more care
is expended upon the dressing of the hair, and as Nature has
lent her aid by bestowing upon the people abundant heads of
hair, a good deal can be accomplished in this direction. Apart
from the high chignons, one notices, especially in girls, nume-
rous fantastical frisures, produced by puffing and plaiting the
hair ; they for the most part defy all description. If a person's
own hair is not considered sufficient, that of some dead person
is requisitioned. Head-dresses and brimless straw hats are
kept in place by means of ivory hair-pins, which are also used
as ornaments. They are neatly made, with square, round, or
crescent-shaped heads, which are sometimes decorated by burnt-
in dotted patterns. Iron hair-pins, as used by the Zande, are
very rare here, and probably of foreign importation. As trim-
ming for the hats, round bunches of red parrot's feathers are
used, in default of which (for they are dear) the white feathers
of hens and cocks are utilised. Chains and bracelets of iron,
copper, and brass are worn. It is a universal custom to paint
the body with the black juice of the gardenia, and to lubricate
it with a pomade made of a red wood and palm-oil.

When the day's work is over, dancing and singing are carried
on. On important festive occasions the chief or his eldest son
dances before a semicircle of women, who sit upon stools and
accompany the fantastic movements of the dancer with singing,
swinging the arms, and swaying the body. 'The costume of
the dancer consists of the red rokko trousers, and a belt
ornamented with copper, bunches of genet, monkey and
leopards' tails, pieces of beautiful otter-skin, and bunches of
various-coloured feathers, especially those of the parrot and
turacos. The women's dances are specially arranged. Form-
ing a large circle, they step lightly around, singing as they
go, and surrounded by a double row of men. The mimicry
of the dance is more decent here than elsewhere. - Trombones

212 NOTES ON THE MONBUTTU.

of elephants' tusks, drums and kettledrums (the drumsticks
covered with caoutchouc), and noisy wicker rattles containing
the shells of a fruit serve as musical instruments. The dancers
wear girdles and necklaces made of large glittering pods, which
produce a good deal of noise.

Having mentioned the ornaments, the mutilations must not
be forgotten. It is well known that all Monbuttu, both men
and women, cut out a piece of the concha, and are on this
account called " Garagir" by the Arabs; but it is not so
generally known that this custom was first adopted by them,
when they occupied this country, in order to assimilate them-
selves to its aboriginal inhabitants. Another custom much in
vogue is filing the upper middle incisor teeth, so as to present
a small triangular space; the total removal of teeth, how-
ever, is never practised. 'The Monbuttu brought with them
from their original home the custom of cireumecision, and regard
it as a sign of their superiority over other Negro tribes. The
rite is performed by men set apart for the purpose, and with
special iron knives, when the boys reach their fifth or sixth
year. The bleeding is stopped by the application of vegetable
ashes, and by dressing the wound with the leaves of an Aroid ;
in five or six days the part is quite healed. Poor people do
not make much fuss over this rite, and content themselves
with offering to their neighbours a jar of beer; but people of
position celebrate the event by parties and feasts, often lasting
a week or a fortnight. 'The most curious custom,' however,
and one which is particularly observed in the ruling fami-
lies, is bandaging the heads of infants. By means of these
bandages a lengthening of the head along its horizontal axis
is produced ; and whereas the ordinary Monbuttu people have
rather round heads, the form of the head in the better classes
shows an extraordinary increase in length, which certainly
very well suits their style of hair and of hat.

The household utensils, made of wood or clay, are excel-
lent of their kind. Favoured by a rich and remarkable variety
of material in wood, canes, and palm-twigs, the Monbuttu have
excelled for ages in woodwork; the elegant benches and
benchlets for men, the stools for women, ornamented in fanciful
patterns, the dishes and bowls for food, and, more recently, the

ARTISTIC INSTINCTS. 213

boxes made from one piece of wood, in imitation of the trunks
in which the Arabs carry their clothes, prove this abundantly.
The legs of ankarebs, made of blackened wood, and carved lgy
the Monbuttu with a knife, hold their own when compared with
the work of the lathe. It is true, however, that real artists,
who carve heads and figures, &c., are more numerous amongst
the A-Zandé. The pottery, although made out of very coarse
clay, surprises one by the varieties in design, the pure taste
exhibited in the decorations, which are often in relief, as also
by the presence of handles or depressions for the fingers.
As a rule, the pottery is unglazed, and the original clay is
not coloured, nor is it even freed from its mica scales. In
all their workmanship the Monbuttu exhibit much good taste,
and, as willing and clever workmen, they thoroughly appre-
ciate good work. How far their love for symmetry leads them
is shown by the fact that the wood, which is cut during the
dry season and piled up in the huts for use in the wet season,
is regularly dressed, and has its smooth sides decorated in
various colours.

( 314 *)

TV.
TN THE CEOUNTERY OF THE BARIL AND LATUKA.

1. From GONDOKORO THROUGH TAraNxGoLE to Acarvu.

SsCENERY TO THE EAST OF GONDOKORO-THE LIRIA PASS-CONFUSION IN THE
NOMENCLATURE OF MOUNTAINS-DISTRICTS OF THE LOKOYA MOUNTAINS
-THE KOLLOMELLO CAYVE-BURNING SANDS-PANORAMA OF TWENTY
MOUNTAIN GROUPS-INDEPENDENCE OF THE LIRIA DISTRICT-VIEWS
TO THE EAST OF LIRIA-STATION OKKELA-REGIME OF THE GINETTI
--ABUNDANCE OF GAME-POVERTY OF SALT AND SICKLINESS OF
CATTLE-LIONS AND LEOPARDS-A LION-CHARMER-FRUIT OF THE
DOLEB PALM-THE OLD VILLAGE OF OKKELA ; A FRBTE CHAMPRBTRE-
LATOKA DRESS, WEAPONS, AND SPORT-PREPONDERANCE OF WOMEN
-LATOKA HUTS-OSTRICHES-THE AVIFAUNA OF OKKELA-THE BER
COUNTRY-STRENGTH OF LATOKA WOMEN-FUNERAL RITES-BONES
IN URNS-LATOKA TOBACCO-THE STATION LORONIO-THE MOUNTAIN
CHAIN OF LAFIT-FORTIFICATIONS IN LATOME'S VILLAGE-TARANGOLE
-PHYSIQUE OF THE LATOKA-TRIBAL MARKS-THE IRENGA DISTRICT
-THE LATOKA LANGUAGE,

 

 

 

Tur scenery around Gondokoro, in spite of the time of
year (March 29, 1881), presented a varied aspect, being
characterised by numerous mountains and many small groups
of Bari huts surrounded by high euphorbia hedges. The
little station itself, after having been abandoned by Gordon
Pasha, was reoccupied three years ago by ten soldiers, princi-
pally for the sake of its lemon-trees. It was then enlarged
to form a sort of outpost to Ladd, and is now the means of
communication with the surrounding Bari chiefs, repaying
cultivation on account of the richness of its soil, and forming
an important base for our communications with Latuka. - How
greatly times have altered here may be shown by the fact that

BELINIAXN. $s
now the post is garrisoned by twenty soldiers, and that the
chief, Loron, Baker's antagonist, has become one of our most
trusted adherents.

A large sandy plain, with doléb bushes and briars, inter-
sected by several small AMors, extends from GondokGro to the
imposing mountains of Belinian (Belingong), which flank the
road to Chief Befo's village, Urbare. Numerous Calotropis
grow here, as they always do in this kind of soil. Forest
trees, magnificent tamarinds, butter-trees, and acacias, just
beginning to shoot forth their fragrant blossoms, grow in
greater number near the mountains, where the land also is
greener, owing to the damp soil. Beautiful green meadows,
on which large herds of cattle graze, attended by flocks of
snowy-white herons (Bubuleus ibis), gradually encroach on the
yellowish-red tracts of sand. Numerous small sertbas, en-
closed by strong thorn-hedges, and industrious people pre-
paring the land for seed, and followed by dogs with bells
round their necks, lent to the village of Urbare a cheerful,
homely aspect. - About five minutes north-east from this place
we came across the bed of the large Khor Kadwe, known
farther down as Khor Kirinion (the Bari have a nasal "n"
exactly like the French), which is the principal channel of
drainage for this part of the country. There is plenty of good
water in certain parts of its bed, which is deeply excavated,
and is bordered on either side by broad banks of coarse sand,
with numerous fragments of quartz and still more numerous
mica scales. Hundreds of storks were assembled in the adjoin-
ing fields, but would allow no one to approach them ; the
tufted Scopus umbretta, not nearly so shy, stood nodding and
fishing in the shallows. j

Chief Befo, after " scaring away the rain," became our guide
through his country, which extends nominally from the Belinian
chain to Tollogo. Hills of hard yellow ferruginous clay, be-
strewn with quantities of quartz rubble and overgrown with
thin brushwood, marked the first slight ascent to the Lokoya
group, our next destination. On our march we crossed Khor
Kadwe and Khor Kasuba, the former a broad stream but quite
dry, the latter gay with vegetation, and containing water which
smells badly and tastes slightly of iron. Large blocks of

216 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

granite, striped red and black, lay on the banks, where we
found solitary Adenias, with their underground stems and
purple blossoms. Jebel Torkola, which we soon reached, was
partly covered by bamboos, and on its summit glittered and
sparkled large plates of mica, which is found throughout
this district. The mountain itself consists of grey granite.
Jebel Longobo, which we reached after crossing Khor Gollo-
lindu (known farther down as Mirshuk), is usually named Jebel
Bonjurem, after the Bari tribe living there. Unfortunately,
not a drop of water was to be had, and a storm coming on
suddenly, converted the yellow loam into a stiff mud without
providing drinking-water. The nearest village lay far away
on the mountain, and its inhabitants did not show themselves,
although Befo, their chief, was with us; so when the rain
abated a little we had to leave our refuge-a magnificent
tamarind-and, wet and still thirsty, we continued our journey.
Rounding the last spur of Jebel Longobo, which rises in the
shape of a beautiful pillar, called Lili, we passed through fine
park land to Jebel Molere, a rather long range, on the slopes
of which lies the village Ulikare, where we encamped under a
mighty butter-tree.

The population of this district is very large, judging from
the number of villages in sight; the ground is well cultivated.
It consists of coffee-coloured vegetable mould, overlying, to a
depth of three feet, a stratum of granitic rubble; here, too,
water is scarce. - Wells have been dug in the deepest part of
a fold of the ground, which comes down from Jebel Molere.
These wells are about ten minutes' walk to the east-south-east
of the village. They are about six feet deep, and fill by per-
colation ; their water is not clear, and is not exactly improved
by the habit the people have of washing themselves in it
before they fill their vessels.

Here Chief Befo took leave of us, after furnishing us with
porters; he did not venture to proceed farther, on account of a
blood-feud which exists between him and Rugang, the great
rainmaker and chief of the Liria district; he would probably
have been made away with long before this if he had not
prudently joined us. A great deal of rain must have fallen
here, for the forest-still the open Bari forest-is beautifully

HILL  VILLNGES; 217

green, and in the short grass just shooting up, quantities of
various Liliaces are in blossom, among which a fine white
Crinum attracts attention by its sweet scent. A multitude of
small Arors intersect the hilly country, and granite and mica
crop out on the surface. A sort of open defile is formed by a
continuous line of isolated hills on one side, and the range of
Jebel Kajumbo on the other. We passed through this over
a very good road, and in the midst of a lovely wood of lofty
trees, until a sudden turn led us into a narrow valley lying
between Jebel Kajumbo and Jebel Tollogo; this was the
dreaded Liria pass of Tollogo. We halted under a sycamore,
but before we could sit down to rest, the men provided by
Befo in the morning ran away, leaving us with only our few
Latuka porters. Large numbers of houses were visible on Jebel
Tollogo, all standing on small terraces levelled for the purpose,
many of them high up on the mountain-side, and hedged round
with strong fences of thorns and bamboos. The foot of the
mountain and the valley were very diligently cultivated. Large
numbers of men were industriously grubbing #p the soil
with long shovels and preparing it for seed, while the women
and girls were collecting the uprooted grass into heaps, to be
subsequently burnt in order to extract salt from the ashes.
An attempt to procure porters here for the short distance to
Rugang's village was of no avail, for no one would leave his
work. We had, therefore, to distribute some of the loads of
flour, &c., among the remaining porters, and then we com-
menced the passage of the narrow defile, for in some parts
it well deserved this name.

The valley is at most half a mile wide, and rises but slightly ;
the small Khor Modira, which flows through it, receives from
all sides the tribute of numerous rain-drains. The mountains
are in some parts richly wooded, but elsewhere they are quite
bare, and exhibit the grey granite with white and red stripes
of which they are composed. Numerous villages are situated
on them, so completely matching in colour the dark rocks and
woods that they are only discovered with difficulty. - Their
strong zeribas indicate great caution, which is no doubt neces-
sitated by the continual feuds and raids among the small
independent Bari tribes. I purposely use the word " Bari,"

218 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

because, although many of the inhabitants of Tollogo under-
stand Latuka, their language, the formation of their skulls,
their manners, customs, and arms, show that they really are
Bari. - The foot of the mountains has been converted into
terraces, which are protected by stone walls from the destruc-
tive action of water, and are most carefully cultivated, as is also
the bottom of the valley. A narrow path, lined on either side
by the stems of the ragged Boswellia papyrifera, leads through
the fields in the direction of Jebel Lohe, which appears to shut
in the valley entirely. In the upper part of the valley the
path is much obstructed by rocks which have rolled down the
hillsides, and the vegetation being more vigorous, it would
not be so easy to meet the attack of an invading force. For-
tunately, the people just now have something else to do, and
this pass is reputed perfectly safe. A sharp turn to the left,
clearly marked on Heuglin's old map, brought us out of the
Tollogo valley, and then led us along the foot of Jebel Tollogo
(here known as Liria) and over rocky declivities, strewn with
enormous boulders and intersected by deep ravines.

The geographical nomenclature in this part of the country
is so confused that it may be as well to explain the true state
of things, for the benefit of future travellers. The whole range
of mountains, including Jebel Kajumbo, Jebel Molere, Jebel
Tollogo, Jebel Oppone, Jebel Lohe, &c., are designated by the
natives under the general name of the Lokoya mountains.
Where this name originated is not clear to me; perhaps it was
introduced by the Danagla, who call Jebel Remo in the Madi
district Madi-Lokoya, and the name also figures on Speke's
map. - What koya may mean in the language of Dar Mahas, or
some other Nubian " Dar," I cannot say : here this word, in the
language of the Danagla, signifies razzie or "raid." - 'There
is no doubt that words first introduced by the Danagla have
been 'incorporated in the Negro languages, and are now
current throughout the country. As instances I may mention
meryem (woman, female), nyerkitk (child, young), and vagidn
(proud, obstinate), which must be familiar to any one who has
travelled through the regions of the White Nile or the Bahr-
el-Ghazal.

But to return to the mountains. The country occupied by the

IN LIRIA, sig

Lokoya mountains is divided into districts inhabited by various
Bari tribes. One of these, which includes the Tollogo valley
and the whole of the eastern slope of the mountains as far as
Ber, is called Liria. As Rugong, the present chief of Liria,
a son of Leggi, who was chief in Baker's time, has managed
to acquire considerable influence as a rainmaker and a robber,
the name of his district has gradually been extended beyond
the boundaries of the district to which it was originally
applied, but the Bari still confine this name to Jebel Tollogo
and its spurs.

The guides drew our attention to a large cave, Kolomello,
situated in the midst of a confused jumble of rocks and
boulders, which must often have afforded protection from the
sun and bad weather to herds and herdsmen. The burning
rays of the sun, reflected by the bare rocks, poured upon us
like a shower of fire; heat radiated from the burning sandy
ground as from an oven; there was not a drop of water far
or wide, only a multitude of singing grasshoppers, whose sharp
metallic chirp fell more clearly on the ear owing to the
oppressive silence. - We were really delighted when the nearest
buildings of Rinyak, the capital of the Liria district, appeared
high up upon the mountain, and the cheerful clanging of
hammers announced the approach to a smithy, which, accord-
ing to Bari custom, always stands outside the village. A large
plain at the foot of the mountain sinks gently towards the south,
and we halted under great butter-trees and fig-trees, to see the
chief of the country. He soon appeared, attended, by about
200 men, and after receiving some presents, kindly promised to
complete the number of our porters, asking, however, for a delay
until the next morning. I took the opportunity of surveying
the country from the slope of Jebel Oppone, usually known as
Jebel Liria. A splendid panorama spread out before me, for
about twenty different mountain groups were in view, extending
from the solitary Jebel Loligono in the Bér (Berri) country,
in the north, down past the Lafit range, to the superb Jebel
Molong and the two-horned Jebel Ekara, in the Obbo country.
I noticed here that the names given by the Latuka often
differed entirely from those employed by the people of
Liria,.

230 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

The whole of Liria, although it joined us last year, and can
now be crossed almost without an escort, is still virtually
independent. _ Its inhabitants, a fine powerful race of the Bari
type, and entirely like them in manners and customs, have
a bad and widespread reputation as robbers. They used to
extend their raids northwards as far as Ber, and southwards
into the district of Kiri, and it was not till the chiefs of the
last-named district had received arms from me that they
succeeded in keeping them at bay. Rugang enjoys a great
reputation as a rainmaker, a somewhat dangerous calling; his
father was killed by his subjects because rain did not appear.
While durrah is grown largely in this district, tobacco,
curiously enough, is seldom cultivated, and thrives badly. The
people procure their tobacco chiefly from Latika, which yields
a large and superior quality. It is a good hunting region,
for the extensive open woods harbour large herds of antelopes,
and elephants are also plentiful. The fact that the dwelling-
houses are generally without fences proves that beasts of prey
are not very numerous or are not dreaded ; however, compounds
for the cattle are, as usual, enclosed with thorn-fences.

The night was over at last, in spite of the rain, the wind,
and the swarms of mosquitoes, and the Latuka were ready to
start; Chief Rugang had put in an appearance with spear,
bow and arrows, ready to act as our guide, only the promised
porters had not arrived. On my reproaching him for not
keeping his promise, the chief went off in a great hurry to
fetch them, and after a few minutes returned, accompanied by
three women ; the men, he said, were engaged in field-work,
so the women should do the carrying. This proposal was, to
their great satisfaction, refused, the baggage was redistributed,
and after some delay we at last marched off, Rugang insisting
on accompanying us. He is living at strife with his people,
as he confided to me on the way, because they wanted rain,
and he did not give it them.

The country in front slopes gently down to the Khor Rodon,
for the mountains of Lokoya, which penetrate like a wedge into
the plain that stretches from here to now lie be-
hind us, and the general rise of the ground is but slight. The
sandy soil supports the same vegetation as to the west of the

A PARADISE OF ELEPHANTS, 221

mountains, except that here the acacias (Acacia campylacantha)
form veritable woods, with thickets of aloes growing between
the trees. A Jebel Korola lies some three miles to the left
of the road ; it is occupied by people from the original Jebel
Korola, which lies to the northward. Immediately past Khor
Rodon is an extensive plain covered with Cyperacese, and
clumps of trees here and there; as the sedges indicate, it
may be entirely flooded, and hardly passable in the rainy
season, but at this time it was dry. Kigelias and euphor-
bias grow on the elevated spots, while hundreds of elephants
march about in troops, not exactly improving the road, which
is so trodden down by them that one has the greatest difficulty
in steering one's course unharmed between the holes and
ditches. This paradise of elephants is named by the Liria
people Kadenokoka; the Latuka people call it Kittagong.
Swarms of little butterflies literally covering the ground at
all the damp places look exceedingly pretty, and resemble
white and red blossoms sprung from the black swampy soil.
Equally pleasing is the sight of yellow-backed widow-birds
(Penthetria macroura), that clamber about the high grass in
noisy companies. It takes about an hour to march through
this swamp; at its extremity Khor Kafali runs northwards
to the Ber district, where it joins the Khor Gineti, there
called Chol or Chon.

Very open acacia woods, interrupted by many clear patches
of meadow land, lie beyond this kor. The tracks of nume-
rous visitors are visible upon the edges of the rain-pools,
spoors of buffaloes and giraffes being quite unmistakable. In
the deep bed of Khor Lodo there were only a few little pools
of muddy, bad-smelling water, and large masses of dark, fer-
ruginous, slag-like clay were visible. This kor also flows
northwards, but before reaching the Ber country empties itself
into the Khor Kafali. On all the trees large bats (¥anthor-
pia) were hanging, which flew wildly about on our approach.
A rarer guest, the Stemostira plumbe@ of the western countries,
appeared here for the first time. - Nearly three hours' jour-
ney through open acacia forest, abounding in large game of
all sorts, brought us to a pool called Sogodi, which appears to
be a rendezvous for hunters, for the ground is strewn all over

222 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

with pieces of bones. The large root-stock of a plant, about
twenty inches high, growing plentifully here, is dug up by the
natives and used to impart a pleasant taste to drinking-water.
It has greyish-green stiff leaves, which grow without a pedicel
on the squarrose ramifications. The fruit is sweet, and in
shape like olives. We found ripe yellow plums of the Spondia.

We then entered fine park land, and soon heard the sound
of running water from the Khor Gineti (Baker's Kanieti),
which flows northwards in foaming rapids. We had to pass
its broad bed, in which were numerous piles of stones and
very little water, and then we came to our first station in
the Latika country. It stands at a turn of the Mor, and is
entirely concealed in forest, so that it was not visible until we
were close upon it. - Okkela, or Wakkala, as the Danagla pro-
nounce it, is occupied by only twenty men, and was erected
last year after repeated requests from Chief Chulong, in order
to protect him and his people from the attacks of the Ber,
which recur periodically in the rainy season. The Khor
Gineti, flowing close by, and having a floodmark on its deep
bank of from four to seven feet above its present, and certainly
lowest, level, often rises so much in a few hours that the ford
is rendered impassable for days. Though containing little
water, it flows throughout the whole year, which indicates the
existence of springs, probably in the Obbo mountains. Its
water is muddy, very likely owing to its loamy sides, and is
not good, although some ten minutes above the station, at a
bend of the kAhor, there are rapids, where the water roars and
foams-a favourite haunt of Scopus umbretta. - To the north it
loses itself in the broad swamps of the Ber country, enormous
stretches of land extending, perhaps, to Bahr-el-Zaraf, and
forming a refuge for numerous herds of elephants, which are
only disturbed by hunters in the dry season.

The country here is richly wooded, and its stores of game
are inexhaustible. Elephants, giraffes, buffaloes and zebras,
wild boars, and thousands of antelopes, from the bulky Antilope
oreas to the graceful A. Hemprichiana, disport themselves in
the verdant clearings and open forest. No less than seven-
teen pitfalls have been made round the station, and prove very
dangerous to the traveller.

A GAME-COUNTRY, 223

Although thfe abundance of game is a blessing to the people,
I attribute to it a fact which I could not previously explain ;
all cattle brought here, and riding animals, such as donkeys,
mules, &c., are ruined after a short stay. - Swellings on different
parts of the body, loss of appetite, emaciation, and finally
death follow one another speedily, a combination of symptoms
which I attribute to the intrusion of intestinal worms. This
view is confirmed by the fact that all the game absolutely
swarms with worms; this is always the case in countries where
salt is rare. Another pest, also connected with the game, is
the existence of numerous ticks, which much inconvenience a
traveller on the march. - But more dreaded guests than these
are attracted hither by the abundance of game ; lions, leopards,
cheetahs (Cynailurus guttatus), smaller animals of the cat species
(Felis serval and F. caligata), and hysenas are such familiar sights
that one soon learns to take no notice of them.

Only the leopards are dreaded, for they often attack men,
which the lions never do, although they lurk in the bush in
twos and threes. The Negroes tell me that they are under the
control of a chief named Lottor, a very simple, good-natured
man, who always keeps two tame lions in his house (a fact),
and as long as he receives occasional presents of corn and goats,
prevents the wild lions from doing any mischief. It is curious
to note that the lions here are really good-tempered (perhaps
because they find abundance of food), and they are also much
admired, as was shown by the following incident:-One day
we came upon a lion caught in a pitfall, whereupon Chief
Lottor was fetched, and he pushed into the pit branches of
trees to enable the lion to get out ; this it did, and after giving
us a roar of acknowledgment, walked off unharmed.

Another chief is said to possess the power of keeping the
game away from the pitfalls. One of our men told me that
this chief was at one time detained under arrest at the station
for a few hours, the consequence being that no game came
near the station for about eight days, so that a present had to
be sent to the chief to appease him. - Chief Chulong's wife also
is famous for her power over the numerous crocodiles which
make their home in Khor Gineti.

Fishing is ardently pursued by the women, and is chiefly

224 GOnNDoKoRro TO AGARU.

carried on by means of large nets, made from fibres of San-
seviera, which is very common over the whole of Liatika ; they
are spread out over a part of the kkor by five or six persons,
and then drawn to land. - Large fish are killed with sticks, but
crocodiles are allowed to escape.

About an hour and a half's journey from here to the north-
west lies an extensive forest of doléb palms called Kayala (a
general name for all palm forests) ; it is about four hours' march
in length, and, in parts, two hours' march across. Now that corn
is scarce, it abundantly supplies all the surrounding villages
with orange-coloured fruits, which are carried for miles by
women in nets on their heads; the stringy husks are either
eaten raw or macerated in water, which is then drunk. The
kernels themselves are planted, and dug up again as soon as
they begin to sprout, when they are eaten raw or boiled. The
large village Loronio, about five hours' journey distant, also
draws its supplies from this forest; but as the elephants, and
still more the very numerous baboons, like to have their share,
and are often very troublesome, the villagers have combined to
send a guard in turns to the forest to protect the women and
children.

Close beside the station stands the Negro village Okella,
which must certainly have existed for very many years, for the
original fence has gradually become such a thick entangled mass
of bushes, briers, underwood, and trees, that it is quite impossible
to get through it except at the entrances, which are kept free
by the inhabitants, and which Baker mentions. This natural
fort could hold out for a long time even against an attack with
firearms. The wood forming the rampart is in places nearly
a mile broad. The village stands on a very large open
space within this fortress of wood, and as Chief Chulong was
killed in a quarrel, it is governed by his wife, until her son
grows up. 'The huts are built of straw in a peculiar form, and
are arranged in groups separated from one another by fences
and shockingly dirty narrow paths. At one end of the village
an enclosure built round an immense fig-tree is used as a meet-
ing-place by the men, Upon a high scaffolding there are nume-
rous reclining-boards, which command a distant view, and are
occupied at all hours of the day by men of all ages, talking,

SPORT IN LATUKA. 225

smoking, and transacting business. Under the trees the boys
engage in basketmaking, for which the leaves of the doléb
palms furnish excellent material.

The men are usually quite naked, and deck themselves with
ornaments made of iron, and sometimes of copper, which is
highly prized. Spiral coils of brass, which find their way here
from Zanzibar through Uganda, are much sought after and
much valued. Cowries are valueless Bead ornaments are
little cared for, except a dark blue cylindrical sort, called mauir
in the Sudan, which are used for waistbands and necklaces, and
small coral and blood-red beads, with which they decorate the
head-dresses. - The latter have the form of an antique helmet ;
they were mentioned by Baker. They are made of a thick felt
of human hair, and are adorned with plates of copper, red beads,
cowries, empty brass cartridge-cases, the fruit of the Abrus
precatorius, &e.; but a tuft composed of the gaudiest feathers
procurable, resembling the old plumes of heron's feathers, is
considered their chief ornament. For this purpose gay-coloured
weaver-birds, &e., are snared, and this practice has often given
me a good opportunity of ascertaining the native names of birds.
Scars on the forehead, temples, and breast are common tribal
marks.

The only weapons I have seen are spears and shields.
Knob-sticks are used by the women for killing bustards.
The men are excellent hunters and extraordinarily courageous ;
they attack the elephant and rhinoceros with the spear, and
also the buffalo, a still greater feat, for the hunted often hunt
the hunter. The solitary old bulls are especially dangerous ;
they take possession of certain districts, and often render the
roads impassable. - One of these animals established itself near

our station, and after severely injuring ten men in eight days,
: it was killed, but not till it had received twenty-three bullets !
\ In this district hunting parties are formed throughout the
' whole year, as there is no close time. 'The name given to
i this very village by the Danagla when they first occupied the
) country, and which is in use at the present time, was Zertbet-
» es-Sayadim (the hunters' village), which shows that sport has
I long been pursued by the inhabitants.

Women and girls are much more numerous here than men.

P

226 GONDoKOoRO TO AGARU.

This numerical disproportion, which also prevails in other parts
of the country, may explain why the women here, who are
both ponderous and ugly, are not renowned for their chastity,
and why the men, on the other hand, are considered very
lenient to their robust helpmates.

I have already said that the interior of the village was
dreadfully dirty, in contrast to the Bari villages, which are
always kept scrupulously clean within, although their environ-
ments are very dirty. - Hundreds of rats and mice infest the
huts. The latter are built upon round substructures, about
four and a half feet high, which are usually calked and overlaid
with mud. The huts are surmounted by bell-shaped roofs
(sometimes peaked), which project considerably over the sub-
structures. A small doorway is left open, about two and a
half feet high, which must, of course, be entered on all fours.
The interior is kept fairly clean, but is quite dark. The thatch
is generally made of grass; many huts are covered with split
leaves of the doléb palm, which are more durable and com-
pact-a very desirable quality for withstanding tropical rain.
Sheep and goats are the only domestic animals kept here;
the former are long-legged and of a superior breed. Curiously
enough, I saw no dogs. Agriculture, as is usual among hunt-
ing tribes, is rather neglected, although the soil is excellent,
and the soldiers grow durrah, maize, ground-nuts, and splendid
water-melons.

I saw six little ostriches the size of turkeys running about
loose. They were hatched by the sun at our station from eggs
buried in the sand. I was told that these birds are very
numerous. - Snakes appear to enjoy the sandy soil at Okkela,
for a considerable number of different species are found there,
chiefly adders, among which are several new kinds. Poisonous
snakes sometimes make their way into the huts. One of them,
a kind of Echis, is very common, and much dreaded.

Okkela is a paradise for the collector. The belt of wood
round the Negro village is full of treasures. I shall never
forget the pleasure of half an hour which I spent there. The
white dorsal mane and tail-tuft of Colobus guerezsa, gleamed
through the dark foliage, small families of them being led
by white-bearded old males, which gazed fearlessly at the

THE FEAXTEHEERED TREE. 227

stranger. - Close by, a dark baboon mother was giving her
offspring rough lectures on good manners, which, to judge from
the howling, were not much appreciated; tall fox-coloured
baboons, white on the under-side, were chasing one another
along the tree-tops, and barking and yelping like hoarse dogs.
A small mouse-coloured monkey with a black face, and quite
unknown to me, skulked away through the thick bush ; two
varieties of Funambulus ran up and down the long tendrils
of the creeping plants, and the graceful XYerus leueumbrinus
roved about upon the ground. Small cats, ichneumons, rats,
and mice had also found a comfortable shelter in the wood,
and other creatures quite unknown, to judge from the descrip-
tion, are said to haunt it, especially at night,

The feathered tribe was much more numerous and striking.
Gorgeous blue kingfishers (Halycorn senegalensis and Zl. semi-
coerulea) and beautiful bee-eaters (Merops Bullockii and M.
albicollis) were perched on the dry boughs watching for in-
sects; a large grey cuckoo, probably a new variety, could be
heard in the tree-tops, as also the handsome Cuculus capensis,
whose loud ery the Negroes interpret by the word lashakong
(my gourd), and a charming little falcon (Nisus sp.) joined
them with a sharp chirp, which the natives call left, 9
happy imitation of its ery. Snow-white terpsiphone and
brilliant golden cuckoos (Chalcites cupreus and C. Clas) were
swinging in the green leafy bowers, and cunning barbets
(Pogonorhynchus Rolleti, P. diadematus, and P. abyssinicus) came
into sight for a moment, to disappear again directly, like wood-
peckers. In the thick copsewood Bessornis Heuglinit flew off
at my approach with a sudden cry of fear, and Cichladusa
guitata sang as loudly, but was not quite so shy. An Aédon
warbled its beautiful song among the thickest briers, and was
accompanied by the tapping of numerous woodpeckers. I
caught Picus nubicus, the rarer P. minutus, and another kind
which I think is new ; it closely resembles P. schoensis, and is
equally handsome.

Animal life abounded also in the open country, covered
with shrubs, and on the broad clearings and sandy flats. The

ground was strewn with the shells of Achatina zebra ; small
lizards and snakes of various kinds-among them the rare

228 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

Typhlops-glided over the sand, and larger snakes hissed
frightfully and retreated. A concert of croaking frogs was
going on at the edge of the khor, and on its sandy islands
enormous crocodiles were watching the children bathing close
by. Herds of Antilope leucotis grazed on the young grass ;
large wild boars issued from holes in the ground ; they are no
despicable antagonists, for they can make very good use of
their huge tusks Going farther into the bush, I saw the
elegant form of a wild cat stealing off with its long tail in the
air, and heard a loud growl from a leopard which disapproved
of my presence. Lions were most plentiful.

A herd of zebras grazing on the fresh green grass is a
pleasant picture, whether surrounded by their frolicking young
or running away at a thundering galop. One does not
often meet with Phatages (Manis) Temmincki and Orycteropus
cethiopicus ; a fine example of the latter fell into a pitfall, and
was unfortunately eaten up before I could rescue it.

In the meantime, I can report little concerning the vegeta-
tion, for we are at the end of the dry season. - Blossoms were
nowhere to be seen. The predominance of acacias over every
other form of tree, which is still more striking farther to the
east, begins to attract attention here.

A road formerly much frequented leads from Okkela to
Bor; it is passable only in the dry season, and then water is
scaree. « The route is as follows :--From the doléb forest,
Kayala, to the village of Bori, at the foot of the mountain of
the same name (also called Loligono) ; thence through a treeless
plain covered with grass to an isolated tamarind ; from this
point through the same treeless country to a lonely mnabbak-
tree, as the jujube-tree, properly named " sidr," is called here.
This tree stands on the boundary between the districts of Bari
and Latuksa, and at the same time marks the end of the
swamps. - Chief Chorkiri's village, Liéna, is the next halting-
place, and the next night is passed at a little Bari village
called Bombari, in a large forest of dum palms. Then the
Bor territory proper begins, and a halt is made at the village
Feriak, from which place it is only a few hours' journey to Bor.
During the last three of the eight days' march the road runs
near the stream, which is first reached at its eastern branch,

THE WEAKER SEX. 229

known as Khor Kirshambe. No A/or except Khor Ginetti is
crossed all the way between Okkela and Bor, water being
scarce along the whole route. 4

I could procure but little information about the Ber country
(Baker's Berri). The language, the frisure, the practice of
carrying two spears, the spears themselves, and the shields,
which I had an opportunity of seeing, are identical with those
of the Shuli country, so that Latuika must be considered as an
encroachment on it, running into it from the north-east or
north-north-east; or it may be more correct to regard Latika
as the remains of a primitive population afterwards inundated
by Shuli. The western frontier of the proper Latiitka territory
is formed by Khor Loddo, for the Liiria district, though both
languages are spoken in it, belongs to the Bari and not to the
Latuka.

The warriors of Okkela are estimated at 120 men: eighty
young men, and forty who wear " helmets and ivory bracelets,"
that is, men quite grown up, besides about twenty grey-headed
men, to whom no great respect is shown. I was told that each of
the men possessed only five or six wives, for cattle are scarce,
and sheep and lance-heads are not so cheap now as formerly.
The price of a strong full-grown girl was formerly, and is still,
where cows exist, twenty-two head of cattle ; here twenty sheep
or goats and forty iron lance-heads are considered an equivalent ;
in Lauda and the southern parts of the country forty molut (iron
hoes). The women can hardly be called the weaker sex here;
they carry burdens that a man would shudder at. This is
strikingly the case in water-carrying ; the streams are often
far away from the villages, so that it takes hours to carry a
pitcher of water-a very large one, on account of the distance-
to the houses situated on the high hills Cooking, carrying
supplies of meat from the forest, providing the family with
fruits of Borassus, procuring grass for housebuilding, manufac-
turing all kinds of pottery except pipe-bowls, weeding, and
harvesting, all devolve upon the women. Meat and porridge
constitute the staple food. I saw no vegetables eaten except
gourds and common purslane. - The Borassus has been already
mentioned.

There is a very extraordinary custom among the women here

230 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.
of wearing around their hips, as their only clothing, a small
hand-net used for fishing. - One of these sturdy beauties, dressed
in a net, with a load upon her head, and the indispensable short
tobacco pipe in the corner of her mouth, would doubtless cause
a sensation in some parts of the world. l

When a man dies, the body is laid upon its right side, and
buried outside the village, a skin being usually spread under-
neath it; after a time- generally about two months-the
bones are dug up, cleaned, and put into a clay vessel, which is
placed beneath a tree or by the roadside, or frequently behind
the house of the deceased. - When a chief dies, the ceremony is
somewhat more imposing. A grave is dug: to the depth of three
and a half to four feet, in the largest of his huts, and lined with
mud and clay by the women. A hide is placed in it, upon
which the body is laid in a half-sitting position ; then the grave
is roofed in with mats, supported by sticks laid crosswise, " so
that the earth may not touch the body," and a layer of earth is
spread over the roof. After a time the bones are taken out and
placed in a clay vessel, which is hung in a tree. Those who
fall in battle or are murdered are not buried thus, but are left
lying where they fall. Baker has already mentioned the dances
which are performed in honour of the dead, whether the latter
have died naturally or by violence. In conformity with a
custom observed in the south, 4.¢., in Unyoro and Uganda, if
the dead appear to their relations in a dream, an offering of
flour and the blood of a sheep is brought to the clay vessels,
and the spirits are besought to discontinue their visits. Little
children are buried outside the hut-doors, to the right, and some
durrah is usually planted over their graves-a very poetical
idea.

The eldest son inherits all his father's possessions, wives in-
cluded ; he may give a share to his brothers, but is not bound
to do so. Quarrels between brothers are consequently very
common, and they generally end with the death of the younger
ones. It is no uncommon thing for a son to murder his father
in order to step into his shoes.

Amulets and charms are everywhere held in the highest
esteem, and even my boiling-point thermometer for determining
heights was looked upon as " medicine for making rain." In

enne
rs

THE TOBACCO OF LAUDA. 231

front of one house I noticed a gourd with seven holes, into
which were stuck pieces of straw ; the woman who lived there
had had several children, but lost them all, and this was
charm to prevent the recurrence of the catastrophe.

The chief of Lavida came to visit us, bringing with him a
present of tobacco, which is cultivated in his territory. - Like
all Latuka tobacco, it is made into flat round cakes, which,

t

when required for use, are powdered. The method of prepara-

tion is as follows :-As soon as the leaves have obtained the
necessary maturity, they are pounded until the stalks and leaves
form one mass; this paste is made into a large heavy bundle,
which is wrapped in leaves and exposed to the heat of the sun
for a time; the drying process is then completed in the shade.
When the bundle is opened, its contents are found to have
become mouldy ; it is exposed to the sun for a second time,
then finely ground, and finally a little water is added to it,
and it is formed into a paste, from which the cakes already
mentioned are made. Throughout the whole district of the
upper White Nile these cakes are called Faniet, and are much

- sought after. The best tobacco in Liatiika grows on Jebel

Molong.

Our stay here had been almost too long, and as we had still
much work before us, and a long way to go, we were obliged
to move forward. Keeping the cloud-crowned Jebel Liafit, a
long mountain chain, to our left, we had to cross a sandy plain
covered by burrows, until we arrived at a wide but still pass-
able swamp. It is impossible for me to say much about the
next portion of our route as far as Khor Bicher, because a
terrible thunderstorm overtook us, and in a few moments the
country was transformed into a lake, through which we hurried
forward, wading up to our ankles in water. In the park land
through which we passed two groups of very dark rocks were
visible; Khor Bicher itself was scarcely fordable, and caused a
delay of over an hour, as it was so much swollen by the rain,
and its banks are so steep. Shortly after, we had to cross Khor
Koz, which is much more important, and comes from Tran-
gole. Near it lies the large village of Eyakke, picturesquely
situated among hills, and surrounded by green corn-fields, and a
forest of Balanites. - Eyalcke is the first village in Chief Latome's

2323 GONnDoKOoRo TO AGARU,.

district. Half an hour's march over the well-made broad road,
on red clay, which stuck fast to our feet, brought us to Loronio,
a station near the hill of the same name.

Chief Latome's village and hill lie in the centre of a slightly
undulating plain, enclosed towards the north and north-east
by the Lafit range. In all other directions, distant groups and -
ranges of hills were visible. The soil must be uncommonly
fruitful, as it is capable of maintaining a considerable number
of Negroes, I estimated that the men capable of bearing
arms in Loronio were about a thousand ; this may be accepted
with slight modification, as the number of huts, which literally
cover the hill, is quite astounding. - Latome claims authority
over thirteen other villages, many of which are larger than
this. I say " claims," because he does not, properly speaking,
belong to the great hereditary chiefs of the land (at least so
Chief Maye told me), but owes his great influence to his skill
making rain, and in a measure also to his good government.
In each of these villages Latome has huts and wives, whom it
is the duty of their respective chiefs to support. He only
visits the villages himself to collect tribute, which consists of
corn, sesame, honey, leopard-skins, cattle, and ivory. If rain is
needed in a village, a deputation must go to Loronio, and
Latome, carried on a little ankareb, and accompanied by sundry
porters carrying pots of mrisse (beer), repairs to the place and
orders the rain.

The long high chain of the Lafit mountains, which name I
may give to the whole range, to save confusion, is at most three
hours' march from here; it culminates in the two high peaks
Lafit and Ittatok. - The range has in different parts many dif-
ferent names; it runs in the direction of south-south-east to
north-north-west. - Towards Téarangole, which is situated, not in
an easterly, but almost south-easterly direction from here, it forms,
with other mountains, a sort of defile, from which rise here and
there single peaks and hills, many of them crowned with perfectly
flat plateaux, on which are situated large densely inhabited villages.

Khor Koz, the very type of a rain-torrent, flows across
the plain from south-east to north-west. At this time it had
already partially flooded the land, but in the dry season it does
not contain a drop of water. Deep wells have therefore to be

 

|
|
.
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E

CHIEF LATOMES VILLAGE, 233

dug in its bed. This would be a fine place to cultivate rice !
But now the crowned cranes, swans, knob-billed geese
and storks are undisturbed lords of the flooded land, Whicli
with so little trouble might yield a thousandfold profit. Game
also abounds here, but buffaloes and lions are less common;
Hysenas, dangerous only to goats and sheep, are numerous.
The population was busy at this time tilling the fields with
crescent-shaped pieces of iron fixed to strong bamboo handles,
often ten feet long. A visit to Latome gave us an oppor-
tunity of seeing his village. By constructing small stone
walls round the hill, a row of small terraces, one above
another, had been made, on which separate serfbas and huts
were built close together, each of them surrounded by a bam-
boo fence backed by wood, and made so strong that a musket-
ball could scarcely penetrate them. Loronio is one of the
strongest positions in the country, indeed almost impreg-
nable, on account of its situation upon the mountain, its
thickly packed zeribas, separated only by steep narrow lanes,
its rows of palisades and bamboo walls, and the fact that its
inhabitants are always prepared for war. A number of watch-
towers, often three storeys high, afford the watchmen an unin-
terrupted view over the country.

Latome received me in a zeribe near the summit of the
hill, and close by the cattle-yard. The zeribe is composed of
about ten very cleanly kept huts, with roofs made of palm-
leaves, and about double the number of granaries. - Latome is
an elderly gentleman of medium height and rather pleasant
features. He bears the Latika marks, formed by six scars
in two sets of three each, upon his temples. He is a very
clever talker, and is known and feared as cunning and untrust-
worthy. - That occasionally his words are followed by deeds is
proved by the fact that not many years ago he destroyed
103 Danagla, notwithstanding their superior arms. He has
always shown himself very friendly and liberal towards me,
although generally accused of avarice. On this occasion we
received presents of honey, ivory, and cattle, return gifts having,
of course, to be made.

Meantime a motley crowd assembled in the yard-women
and girls, the former with leather aprons, the latter entirely

234 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

nude; men of different districts, all armed with shields and
spears-the genuine Latika people, recognisable by their
slight figures and long faces; those from more southern dis-
tricts by short stout bodies and round faces-all nude and
adorned with iron ornaments, ivory rings on the upper arm,
broad copper rings as necklaces, and helmets of shining brass
or copper plates, surmounted by waving ostrich-plumes. Some
of them wore a cap made of basketwork. - After our reception
was over, we visited the summit of the hill, whence a splendid
view is obtained, extending from Mount Loligono, in the Ber
country, northwards over the whole Lokoya range, to the west,
and to the high peaks of the Obbo mountains, in the south
and south-west, where the horns of Jebel Asal tower up-so
named on Baker's map, but called by the Bari © Ekara," and
by the Latuika " Chufal ;" then away to the long lofty ranges
of Molong and Kilio, the defile leading to Térangole, with its
hills rising up like sentinels, and finally the long range of
Lafit, which closes the scene on the north-east-a typical
Alpine landscape !

About an hour and a half's march from Loronio brought us
to Ongolet, or Longolet, one of the above-mentioned hills, some
400 to 450 feet high, the summit of which was occupied by a
strongly fortified village. Round about were well-tilled fields
with vegetable mould of a chocolate-colour, and corn-fields
just becoming green, and gradually losing themselves in thin
woods of Balanites and acacias. Chief Latome accompanied
me thus far, and then sent me as a farewell present an elephant's
tusk weighing about eighty rofl. On all sides little torrents
rushed down to Khor Koz, which we always kept to our
right, now flowing nearer to, now farther from, the road, and
invariably marked by a thick green belt of trees. The soil
here is of a stiff yellow loam, which, softened by water, gives
to the latter its yellow tint.

The village of Loriajo, situated an hour and a half from
Longolet, is one of the few Latiuka villages lying on the plain,
and is only defended by a thorn-hedge. Like others, it is
divided into different quarters, each having a chief and a
watchtower. In this case they number seven. As the village is
small and most of the inhabitants were out working in the fields,

i

ARRIVAL AT TARANGOLE. 233

___ we had to arrange for the transport of our goods to the neigh-

f
h

bouring village of Bingajok, by the porters making several
journeys, which naturally caused considerable loss of time.
We had also to remain a night at Bingajok, as immediately
beyond Loriajo there are some very deep swamps, in which
one sinks to the knees, and many torrents, swollen to the level
of the banks, render the passage difficult. As the population
of this village, which formerly, judging by the number of huts,
must have been over a thousand, had deserted it, we had to
send to Tarangole to requisition porters. We found in the
deserted huts rough figures of clay, representing oxen and
sheep-perhaps children's playthings, or maybe talismans, as
they were numerous in the huts built for cattle and sheep.
The somewhat elevated position of Bingajok, on the ridge of
a slight undulation in the middle of the valley, permitted me
to make a small triangulation; even the Lokoya Mountains
were visible.

Late in the evening the porters we so much needed arrived,
under the leadership of Chief Maye's son, Lajuri, and estab-
lished themselves in the deserted huts, which now, on account
of the numerous fires, had quite an inhabited appearance.
Unfortunately, mosquitos were very numerous. Proceeding on
our journey, we passed at first through very thick acacia woods
growing on yellow sandy soil, then over a wide open field
with isolated trees, where the village of Katiga stood in Baker's
time. Now its inhabitants are located in two separate moun-
tain villages. - Then we went through extensive woods of acacia
and Balanites, intercepted now and again by troublesome swamps,
till at length, after a two hours' march, we reached the culti-
vated land, in the midst of which our headquarters
in Latuka, is situated. The Lafit range is about four and a-
half hours' march from here. A straight road leads right over
it to the Ber country, whence people frequently come hither
for trading purposes.

Tarangole is the oldest settlement in this part. It was
opened up twenty-five years ago by Danagla troops in the
employ of Khartim merchants, and since that time, with some
few interruptions, it has been a place for the exchange of ivory.

. I say expressly "exchange," because, owing to the warlike

236 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

character of the inhabitants, the slave-trade could not be carried
on here. Chief Maye, an old man, is still the nominal ruler
of this country. He devotes himself, however, mostly to rain-
making, whilst the real government rests in the hands of his
eldest son, a bright young man, who speaks Arabic fluently,
and who is in dress and manners the exact copy of a Khartim
dandy. - Our military station is close to Khor Koz, which here
runs from south to north. - The kAor now contains good water
to the depth of three and a half to four feet, which has formed
wide sandbanks wherever possible. - Fragments of granite and
quartz, felspar, and mica are found there. From the thick belt
of trees and underwood resounds the song of the Aédon, and
the strange bleating and cackling of Schizorhis leucogastra, such
as we had heard in Loronio from their relations, Schizorhis
zonura. They are strange, noisy fellows, now barking like a
dog, now cackling like a hen, now bleating like a sheep, espe-
cially when five or six of them are chasing one another round
the acacia and tamarind trees, wagging their long flexible tails
up and down.

The acacia wood affords good tannin for curing skins, which
process the Latuka turn to good account in preparing the
small leather aprons so much worn by the fair sex. 'The soil,
though swampy in places, is very superior. It consists of a
soft yellow clay, mixed in many places with sand, and in other
parts of a very black vegetable mould. Its cultivation is very
easy, nothing more than the scratching up of the surface to a
depth of four or five inches, as neither stones nor luxuriant
vegetation afford any obstacle. Red durrah, a little sesame,
and a great deal of dukhn (Pemicillaria), are grown. Sweet
potatoes, bananas, as also ground-nuts, were first introduced by
our soldiers. - Numerous herds of cattle and very superior goats
and sheep pasture here, as Chief Maye has known how to pro-
tect them from the Danagla's love of plunder. The natives
live about half a mile from the military station, in two large,
well-built, but very dirty villages, full of watchtowers, dogs,
women smoking tobacco, &e.

The Latuka are a peculiar race of men, quite distinct from
all other Negroes about here. _ Of slight, almost elegant figure,
with a medium height of five feet eight inches (average of twenty

THE LATUKA, e
J
measurements), they have beautiful large eyes, a high forehead,
well-formed mouth, and good, well-set teeth, although they
too extract the lower incisors. 'The face is oblong, the nose
aquiline, the chin not protruded. - Six skulls gave the follow-
ing measurements :-From the tip of the nose to the occipital
protuberance, I 1.93 in. ; from one external meatus to the other
across the head, 10.78 in. (average). Moderately small ears},
large hands, and rather large flat feet complete the portrait of
a Latuka man. The women do not appear to such advantage.

They are rather too corpulent, and absolutely ugly.

On our arrival near Tarangole the porters' wives came more
than half an hour's walk to meet their husbands. These women
are fruitful, as the majority of them have three or four children,
and families of five or six are not infrequent. - Nine is said to
be the highest number borne by one woman. Twins are rare,
and are believed to bring misfortune to the father. Should
he go buffalo-hunting after their birth, it is considered certain
that he would be wounded or killed, and if he wounded an
antelope, it would be sure to escape him. Men, therefore, who
are under this ban do not leave the village until another woman
has borne twins, or his own wife another child, in which case
the spell is broken. The twins themselves, who, as among
other Negro races, receive no proper name-a custom adopted
from the Sudan Arabs-are brought up with the other chil-
dren, and suffer no reproach.

The tribal marks in this district, besides the extraction of
the lower incisors, are four incisions radiating over the temple
from the corner of the eye, which are met by four others
coming from above. Five more incisions are made upon the
forehead, two on either side and one in the middle, all radiat-
ing from the root of the nose. 'The three spears and the
helmet are also characteristic of the Latika; bows and arrows
are not used. Both sexes greet one another throughout the
whole day with the word TZoggolo, the answer being Khummo.
Music and dancing are much enjoyed, and practised on every
possible occasion. - Hunting, however, is the pride of the
Liatuka; they are passionately fond of it, and will attack a
buffalo with a spear, or receive a springing leopard upon their
shields. It is only to be expected that such bravery is re-

238 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

warded by many a wound, and yet one rarely sees maimed:
people in the villages. If a company of people join together
in a hunt, the booty is brought home, and the flesh of buffa-
loes, elephants, and large antelopes is divided amongst the
inhabitants of the village. The chief receives, should he desire
it, the head of the slaughtered animal. If a man goes out hunt-
ing alone, he keeps all that he kills. If a wounded animal
escapes, it belongs to the finder; but if a wounded elephant
dies in a neighbouring district, one tusk belongs to the finder,
the other to the man who first wounded it, and its flesh must
be divided in the village to which the finder belongs.

The breeding of sheep and cattle was once very actively
carried on here, but now, with the exception of Chief Maye's
numerous herds, only large flocks of sheep are to be seen.
Cattle are only milked by men; the dirty habit practised by
the Dinka, Bari, and others, of washing the milker's hands and
face, as also the cow's udder and the milk-pot, with urine
does not exist here. Butter is chiefly used for anointing the
body, sesame oil being preferred for use in cooking. Blood is
freely eaten. - Durrah beer and tobacco are the only narcotics
used. The tobacco is smoked in curiously formed pipes, and
is mixed with two parts of charcoal, either for economy's sake
or to increase the strength. _ Salt is an article in great request,
and is obtained from the ashes of plants; saline clay is said to
exist farther to the east, but the method of extracting salt
from it is not understood. With the exception of iron, no
metals are, apparently, found in the country. Copper and brass
are imported chiefly from Khartim, sometimes from the south,
as also are cowries. There is no communication with the east
except on the frontier of the country (Latika). - The Ber
country occupies a position to the north-north-west and north-
west of this district; its inhabitants, several of whom I saw,
are certainly Shuli. - Irenga is the nearest district towards the
east; it is also called Arenga, or even Renga. Its striking
rugged mountains are partly visible from here; they are said
to be distant three days' good march, and the road which leads
to them passes over the Logere mountains, the inhabitants of
which carry on a flourishing trade with those of Irenga. The
language spoken in Irenga is quite distinct from the Latuka

THE LATUKA LANGUAGE 239
and the Shuli, so is also the language of Akara, a country
lying still farther to the east, whose inhabitants dress, and
arm themselves with two spears, exactly like the Shiuli. It is
said that, at a few hours' distance from Logere, a stream called
Tu, running due north, may be reached. - Its broad sandy bed,
covered with islands and boulders, brings down very little
water (just like Khor Asua) throughout the year, except at the
rainy seasons, when it is very full. On either bank there are
dense woods of doléb palms, in which all kinds of game abound.
There is said to be a much more important stream farther to
the east, but no one from here has yet penetrated so far.

I attempted to compile a vocabulary of the Latula language,
and found that its idiom differs entirely from the languages
spoken on the White Nile. A thorough investigation of it
was, of course,; impossible during so short a stay. - The Arabic
guttural ghain often occurs in Latika, as in Shuli, and like-
wise a nasal », U is employed as an article. Gender, when
necessary, is marked by certain words placed before the foun.
The cardinal numbers are not formed by combinations, but
quite different words are employed. I cannot give any infor-
mation about conjunctions.

The sky was overclouded when we left Térangole. Taking
a south-easterly course along Khor Koz, through beautiful
park land, we reached the ford in about half an hour. The khor
was here about twenty-two yards broad, and full of yellowish
water, which reached up to our thighs, and flowed over a sandy,
rocky bottom. We had a pleasant march over a very good
firm road through sandy country covered with open wood, the
ground being rather wet in some places; the predominance of
acacias (Acacia albida, A. mellifera, and A. campylacantha) and
Balanites gave a grey tone to the scenery. Khor Oteng, now
very insignificant, is said to pour such large volumes of water
into Khor Koz in the rainy season, that the passage is otten
rendered impossible for hours. The ford of Khor Koz is called
Chuchur; a splendid forest of doléb palms, yielding an abun-
dance of odorous fruits, skirts the Aor, copses of various other
trees intervening. Large flat blocks of friable granite, with
white streaks, lie across the road that leads direct to the foot of
the hill of Loguren, which is about four hundred feet high,

240 , GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

Its summit is crowned with the dome-shaped huts of the village
bearing the same name.

Dum palms (Hyphcene thebaica) grow here, as they do at
the ford of Khor Koz. It appears, therefore, that the southern
limit of this tree runs along the Bahr-el-Jebel between Bor
and Lado, and then advances farther to the south, no doubt
owing to the sandy soil which connects the Latika and Somal
districts. - Picturesque groups of rock inhabited by the restless
Hyrax, well-tilled fields, and here and there small clumps of
doléb palms are seen along the road to Elianga, where, on the
edges of the rocks, numerous clay vessels containing human
bones seem to say, "Memento mort," a rather unnecessary
warning in Central Africa!

We counted more than thirty mountains in Térangole and
Loguren; most of them are covered with forest. We turned
next through a broad belt of palm forest towards Jebel Ghatal,
which lies at a distance of about half a mile to the left of
the road, and is dotted over with numerous villages; Khor
Irume, which we crossed yesterday, flows between the road
and the mountain. A long lofty mountain range running from
the south and west stretches along to the right of the road ;
it contains the high peaks of Lavalong and Legiri (which
belongs to Jebel Lotese). We rested under a tall tamarind,
near a well full of good water. 'The inhabitants of the sur-
rounding villages obtain most of their water from this well,
for Khor Koz is some distance away. The defile in which
we camped is rather narrow, well tilled, and thickly peopled,
although no inhabitants were visible. It runs to the west,
through the mountain chain above mentioned, then to the east,
through the prolongation of Jebel Ghatal (behind which the
summits of Jebel Dongotelo appear), and ends in the south,
near Jebel Sereten. The village Abure, high up on the slope
of the mountains, overlooked our improvised camp, which was
rather disturbed at night by numerous lions. A long row of
hills, 100 to 120 metres high, runs in front of Jebel Bayango,
and upon them all the villages in this neighbourhood are built.
Parallel to them, on the right hand, the lofty Lomu range
extends, from which Khor Ibiala descends in bold leaps to
Khor Koz. The view becomes a little more extensive here.

THE LARORTAX TREE. 241

In a small opening before us were some fine trees, surrounded
by young crops, which were divided into large squares by
fences of brushwood and straw, as a protection from the water
that rushes furiously down from the adjacent mountains. - The
very populous and independent district of Ikoto is characterised

_ by excellent reddish soil; the numerous guard-huts in the

fields were deserted, but here and there upon the mountains
we saw small groups of people watching our march. A village
must once have stood near Khor Iffune, to judge from the
patches of castor-oil plants, the luxuriant Solanaces, and the
durrah which had run to waste. From the summit of an
adjacent hill I obtained a view over the mountains of the north-
eastern Shuli district; Jebel Kuron, where a military post has
just been erected, was certainly the grandest of them.

Leaving the Bayango range, we crossed the defile, and pass-
ing over hilly country bestrewn with rubble, we reached Jebel
Khofir, a group of hills about three hundred to four hundred
feet high, the spurs of which we had to mount after fording
two small kAors. Their stony declivities, strikingly whitish in
colour, were covered at the top with thick brier brushwood, in
which we noticed the dwarf tree, with reed-like leaves, called
by the Shuli, Lakorta,* which we had seen last year near Chief
Rochama's village, Bigyo ; it seems, indeed, to grow on all the
mountains of eastern Latuka.

From the heights of Jebel Khofir the lofty Irenga mountains
came again into view. My guides pointed out to me the highest
part, lying almost due east, as Jebel Ziimo. Farther to the
north, a very high and apparently solitary summit they named
Jebel Baya, and a little to the south of it a large but very distant
mass, situated in the district of Harogo, they called Jebel Toé.
We descended from the spurs of Khofir into a caldron-shaped
depression, where we rested a short time by some wells, and
then followed the path to the hills which form a continuous
barrier at the foot of the huge Jebel Seréten. - The acacia
copse through which we passed was at first very thick, but
soon became more open, and Khor Koz, which hitherto had

'run at some distance from the road, approached very closely to

4

§
§

|

* Dr. Emin Pasha calls this elsewhere " Lakerda." See note on this name in
the Index.-G. 8. %
Q

242 GONDOKORO TO AGARU.

it. Its sandy bed was about thirty feet broad, and studded with
boulders, giving evidence of the force of its torrent; it only
contained an inch or two of water, for no rain had fallen during
the past few days. A little farther on we halted upon a pro-
minence some thirty feet above the ZAor, after a march of
nearly eight hours. We had now reached the end of the
Latuka defile; on our left lay the spurs, or rather the pro-
longation, of J ebel Sereten ; before us the extremity of Jebel
Lomu, usually, but incorrectly, styled Jebel Tia, the name
of a Latika tribe, bent sharply to the south-west, permitting
the Halanga and Langora mountains to be seen. - They
looked exactly like a continuation of this mountain, while the
isolated masses of the mountains Oppei and Odia, generally
named Jebel Midi, filled up the gap. Behind us lay Jebel
Seréten ; Jebel Dongotolo and Khofir were far off on our right,
and in the distance the Lodio and Kyelamin groups of the
Lafit range appeared.

As soon as we had crossed the Ahor, which we then left for
good, we passed out of the Latiuka country and entered the
Shuli district. Whenever I questioned the Latuika people con-
cerning their traditions and genealogy, they invariably located
their proper home, or rather the place from which they peopled
Latika, at Jebel Kyelamin, which points to a migration from
the north-east. This tribe, which, although surrounded by the
Shuli, has managed to preserve such a marked individuality,
certainly deserves a more thorough study than I was able to
devote to it during my short sojourn in the country. It would
have been interesting to compare the vocabularies which I col-
lected with vocabularies from the east (Kaffa, Galla), but they
were not in my possession.*

We continued our journey over hard dry soil, which,
almost purple in colour, and covered with thick acacia woods,
was intersected at many places by countless runnels, and some-
times by deep ditches. In clearings we saw many Calotropis
and various Euphorbia, one of which is particularly common in
the south, and the Acacia fistula was also very abundant. A
whole system of brooks converged here into the large Khor

* [See Index.] They are Masai, as I discovered on examining Emin's voca-
bularies. -E. G. R.

AGART, 243

Alare, along the broad sandy bed of which we had to walk for
some minutes. That very large volumes of water must often
be carried down this channel to Khor Koz was very evident
from the steep fall of the bed, and the piles of rubbish and frao-
ments of rock upon its sides. One hill followed another, mid
the ascent, which had been quite perceptible from Taérangole,
now became steeper and steeper. We first crossed Khor Lop-
polo, which sends its waters into the Khor Agaru; it came
straight from the mountains, had a deeply cut channel, and even
at this time of the year contained a little water. - A short halt
enabled us to obtain a good view of the little station at the foot
of the high Kela hill. A quarter of an hour's descent, in a
more southerly direction than we had previously followed , brought
us to Khor Okora, a foaming mountain torrent, which contained
colder water than I had ever before found in Africa. This khor
skirts the Kela hill in a narrow channel, twenty feet deep in
some places, and then meanders on towards the south. The
station of Agaru is situated on the southern slope of the hill.

2. FROM AGaRU THROUGH FADIBEK To FAJULI AND BACK
TO FADIBEK.

SITUATION OF AGARU-RESEMBLANCE OF ITS INHABITANTS TO THE SHOLI
- LANDSCAPE SCENERY-GAME-PRESERVES-SAVANNAH-LIKE CHARAC-
TER OF THE COUNTRY-GEOGRAPHICAL INQUIRIES.

AgaRU is still one of our advanced posts. It is situated three
days' good march from our nearest station in Latuka, a day
and a half's march from Fadibék, and three or four days' march
from Fajuli. The lofty Langia range forms a large crescent
as it runs from the east by the north to the west. Towards
the western extremity of its convex side is situated the Kela
hill, close by which our station stands. The mountains, which
are partially wooded, are composed of masses of primitive rocks,
a grey granite speckled with black predominating. 'The
gleaming threads of the two mountain torrents, Amok and
Okora, may be seen descending the Langia and uniting about

244 AGARU TO FAJULL.

twenty minutes' walk behind the Kela hill, whence, under the
name of Okora, they descend over ledges of stone in a south-
easterly course, forming beautifgl cascades. The bed of the
torrent is an exceedingly narrow trench, the walls of which are
steeply scarped on the eastern side, and are about nineteen feet
high. - Their upper stratum, some fifteen feet thick, is composed
of very close reddish clay, with hardly any intermixture, beneath
which there is a layer of sharp-edged stone fragments cemented
together with clay and mud. In the bed lie granite boulders,
which compel the brook to follow very fantastic windings. I
was told that the Okora, which is fed by springs and contains
water all the year round, loses itself in a swamp farther to the
south-east. - From the summit of the Kela hill an entirely new
and extensive mountainous country is visible towards the south
and south-east, whilst to the east the view is shut out. Jebel
Pale looks very striking, with its three sharp towering horns ;
it lies in the Ldngo country, as the people here call all the
unknown district situated to the south and south-east. To
prevent future travellers from making mistakes, I would call
their attention to the fact, that when Negroes and interpreters
are asked the names of mountains and countries, they generally
give at first the name of the chief or tribe dwelling at the
place in question, and only state the real names in answer to
further inquiries. Thus, for Jebel Ogilli one usually hears Woll,
which is the name of a tribe; Jebel Oppei is called Madi, and
the district of Lirem is designated Aje, also the name of a tribe.

At the foot of the Langia range there lies a small and ex-
ceedingly fruitful plain, thinly wooded in parts, and affording
very good pasture for cattle and sheep. In this locality, cattle
are distinguished by having their ears lopped or pierced ; pieces
are cut out of them, fringes are made at their edges, and they
are twisted into curious forms, so that every cow-owner has his
private pattern of ear.

Native huts and sertbas are scattered far and wide over the
Kela hill and the surrounding country ; small terraces are built
for single dwellings right up to the peak of the hill, which is
about 250 feet high. The style of the huts is similar to those
in the Shuli and Shiluk districts, but they are generally smaller,
and have a thicker roof, for protection from the cold. Oven-

A SHULI VILLAGE, 245
shaped corn granaries, huts for young girls, numerous votive
huts, adorned with Achatina shells and horns of dwarf antelopes,
all exist here, while now and then, in the background, can be
seen a smithy, and the erections, so common among the Shuli,
where men and women hold their separate meetings and gather
together for conversation, are not wanting. - There is usually
one of these men's meeting-places on a terrace at the entrance
of a village. - Stands for hunting-trophies, consisting of horns,
skulls, and jaws of slain animals, are to be seen, as also trophies
of every variety of antelope that exists in the country, and of
buffaloes, giraffes, zebras, and other animals of the cat tribe.
There are said to be no lions here. Leopards live among the
crags and rocks; wild cats and hyzenas are plentiful, the latter
being notorious sheep-stealers. The inhabitants are Shuli,
and therefore good hunters, but they cannot compare with the
Latika. Their arms-two spears only-their frisure, and
their ornaments are identical with those of their southern kin.
The women, too, resemble them in being almost entirely with-
out clothing.

A boiling-point observation gave 3700 feet for the height
of Agaru, and the necessary corrections should make it still
higher. It is evident, therefore, why Agaru has always been
considered a kind of sanatorium on account of its climate, a
reputation which it well deserves.

Like Latika, Agaru should yield many treasures to the
collector. I found a weaver-bird, resembling the Hyphantornmis
Spekei, but differing from it in its white under jaw and throat ;
it is probably a new species. For the first time I met with
the superb PAolidauges leucogaster, which appeared to be passing
in small noisy flocks to the north-west. The beef-eaters (Bu-
phaga erythrorhyncha), which prove a sore pest to the cattle,
were particularly numerous and bold. Kingfishers (Halcyon
semicerule@), the beautiful Ispidina picte, and bec-eaters
(Merops Bullockii and M. pusillus) sat on the bushes catching
insects. The hoopoe (Upup« epops) is also fairly common.
Fringillidse appear in legions at this season of the year, being
attracted by the ripening corn. - While in Térangole the place
of the house sparrow is taken by the Philagrus melanorhynchus,
it is here represented by the Passer Swainsoni, a bird of the

246 RXGARU TO FAJULL

same group ; neither of them, however, build their nests in the
huts. Altogether, the feathered fauna of this country is more
closely allied to that of Abyssinia and the Somal country than
to that of our province.

The march from Agaru to Fadibék is accomplished by the
natives, and also by our own men when they have no baggage,
in one day, although we spent exactly eleven hours fifty-five
minutes over it, marching rapidly. The Langia range, with
its summit Logiteli, crowned by the village of Loggede, pushes
its last offshoot, the small round peak of Lara, far out into the
bush ; here the first haltflis usually made beside a pool, round
which flutter hundreds of small white butterflies with red-
tipped wings. From this point another mountain range,
known as Jebel Julu (?), forms a crescent towards the west.
Our road followed the chord of this are through thick
forest and occasionally high reeds, the ground being frequently
intersected by narrow yawning clefts. A rather steep descent
marked the extremity of the range, and then, to the right, the
long chain of Laburomor came suddenly into sight; it seemed
to run partly behind the other range. In front of us, but a
little to the right, rose the grand Jebel Lamo, between it and
Laburomor the summit of Jebel Aggu was visible for a
moment, and at the extreme end of the Lamo, which has a
north and south axis, Jebel Lalak and Jebel Latjiet (Fadibék)
made their appearance.

The country, covered with bushes and briars, was very mono-
tonous, for the view towards the mountains in the east was
shut out by high grass. A luxuriant bed of reeds preceded the
belt of wood by Khor Arenga, which flows to the south-south-
east, and though only sixteen feet broad, contains a very strong
current of cold yellow muddy water, reaching up to the knee
(it is never lower). The springs which feed it lis in the
Laburomor mountains; it empties itself, as we discovered
afterwards, into Khor Bagger. The large village of Uong
stands on the heights of Jebel Lamo, and its fields, which are
subject to the ravages of thousands of finches, extend along
the foot of the mountain. Jebel Lamo is often called Jebel
Falogga, after a large Negro village, one of ten that are situated
on its flanks.

ARRIVAL AT FADIBEK, 247

A sharp turn to the north took us out of the proper road
through luxuriant corn-fields and past fine masses of rock
where huge fig-trees and tamarinds were growing, to the;
village of Uallo, the chief of which wished to submit to our
Government, but wanted to see me first. After the necessary
details had been discussed, our new ally conducted us to Khor
Wodbala, a broad swamp, on the western edge of which we
intended to pass the night, While gathering wood, I found
in the hollow of a tree, about six feet above the ground,
three fully feathered fledglings of the Dacelo chelicutensis, with
striped heads, white collars, the lower part of their beaks and
outer feathers of their pinions being blue. Hence it is quite
certain that this bird builds its nest in hollow trees, or at least
can do so occasionally, a fact quite in accordance with its
habits. Hilly country stretches from the Ahor towards Jebel
Lalak as far as a deep ravine, which separates it from the
corn-fields lying at the foot of that mountain. Quantities of
bamboo and Anona were growing along this road. We ought
to have been able. to get porters at the village of Jangbi, but
failing to do so, we went on through high grass and rushes
until we reached the fields of Fadibék, and striking across the
hills that radiate from Jebel Latjiet, and on rocky parts of
which were some fine AAaya-trees, we descended the hill, and
after passing Chief Aguok's village, we reached the station of
Fadibek just in time to escape a downpour of rain.

I gave some information about Fadibék on the occasion of
my last year's expedition; I have therefore only to add that
the station has prospered, and still remains the centre for
the eastern Shuli district. The continual rain made outdoor
work disagreeable, but I had one good ornithological find in
the graceful Ptilopachys ventralis, whose sharp ery at coupling
time is heard from the crags in the Shuli country. It is the
best game found here. I also found a large spider, a new
species.

Our route from Fadibék to Fajuli should have taken us
first to Jebel Abayo, in the district of Labongo, which we
visited last year, and then we were to leave the Fatiko road on
the right. But the path proved to be rather different from
that followed last year, for it led across the Abanya hill, and

248 AGARU TO FAJULL

past the huts of the village of Madi, which was deserted last
year on account of sickness, and finally turned through grassy
flats and very numerous bamboo copses straight to Jebel
Abayo, passing round which, in a sharp curve to the east, it
brought us to a rocky hill at the eastern declivity of that
mountain. - There we halted, and obtained a glorious view to
the east and south-east over blue mountains which no European
had hitherto seen. Last year thick mist partly concealed the
horizon, and it was impossible to obtain any compass bearings.
This time also an evil star seemed to rule, for the interpreters
I had brought with me became confused in giving the names;,
and contradicted one another, which was very annoying, for
some forty mountains and mountain groups were in sight.
So I only accepted those names which were given me unani-
mously, and left the rest to fill in at favourable points along the
road from native information, a plan which proved successful
beyond my expectations.

A long row of doléb palms marked the course of Khor
Funotar, a tributary of the Bagger, to which we next made
our way. Darkish water flows down the rocky bed of the
khor, but is good for drinking. Up to this point the country
is covered with brushwood, interrupted by corn-fields, high
grass, and bamboo copses. A large savannah, grown over in
parts by low brushwood, commences here; it is crossed by
numerous rivulets, all of which run into Khor Bagger. When
we passed through it the grass was already very high. I
may mention that all these grassy flats found in the Shuli and
Madi countries, and often twelve to fifteen hours' march across
either way, are purposely left unoccupied, as preserves for
elephants and game. Jebel Goma, which on this journey was
occasionally seen far off to the right, was an old acquaintance.
The rushing water of Khor Bagger, to which we descended,
struggles through acacia bushes and over patches of sand and
slabs of mica schist, and is audible at some distance. - Flowing
in a curve from east to west, it is here about forty feet broad,
and pours down its rocky bed a volume of water, four to five
feet deep, into Khor Asua, which, without it and the Atappi,
would be only a rain-torrent. ‘

We crossed the Aor without any annoyance from crocodiles,

WILD GRAPES: 249

and, upon an open stretch of land just beyond it, I was able at
last to take the compass bearings necessary to complete my
observations made on the Abayo, the country to the south
alone being veiled by clouds. A grand panorama was visible
-the Agaru group, the solitary forms of Lalak, Lamo, and
Aggu, the syenitic dome of Abaya, which we had passed on
the road, and even the distant Seréten,. All the groups of the
north-east Shuli district, as far as the Kuron and Kiteng, in-
cluding the very striking three-pinnacled Akkara group (Jebel
Pale); in front of us, the imposing masses of Ogilli, Paimol,
and Mora, between which appeared the pointed Farabongo ;
and finally, the grand masses of Okaga-a far more magnificent
scene than that presented by the eastern mountains, because
the outlines are more jagged and bold than the rounded
summits of the more northern ranges.

The Languello hill, which we next climbed, rises from a
sort of plateau, and on its summit we found large reservoirs
of water, in which small flocks of widow-ducks (Dendrocygna
viduata) were sporting. My men ate freely of the fruit of
the wild vine, growing all round ; its ripe black grapes are
not juicy, but very pleasant. A fine sycamore and a soli-
tary doléb palm beside it form a prominent landmark, visible
for a long distance in this scantily wooded country ; they an-
nounced to us the proximity of our camping-ground, under a
stunted tamarind, beside Khor Dore. This spot had been chosen
because of the abundance of water and of bamboos, which sup-
plied good material for hutbuilding. The latter part of the
savannah is crossed by broad hollows overgrown with rushes ;
these- hollows are probably swamps in the rainy season. Then
followed open wood with groves of Amomum, until, after a good
three hours' march, we reached newly tilled land, and ascended
a good road on clayey soil, through a fine forest to the Leruama
hill ; then, through the corn-fields which surrounded the little
village of Tingtum, we reached the village of Lira, situated on
the ridge of the hill.

After a short rest here, we proceeded to Jebel Uyugu, where
the cultivated land is surrounded by fine forests with large dark
masses of foliage, a rare sight in the Shuli country. A number
of barked trees showed that the inhabitants kept bees, for

250 AGARU TO EAJULI.

baskets made of bark were hung on the trees. The short stretch
of land from here to Jebel Gikkor, one of the many lofty hills
in this region, is fairly well wooded, and crossed by two small
watercourses. - Here, too, we saw clumps of butter-trees.
Larema, a Negro village at the foot of the hill, had been
deserted, because the soil was exhausted, and its inhabitants
had built another village upon the hills of Loto, which may, in
its turn, be deserted in three or four years. Durrah soon ex-
hausts the soil, and the varieties of beans, which are exten-
sively grown here, exhaust it still more rapidly. - Manuring is
not dreamt of, a change of residence being preferred. We
had therefore to camp in the forest, where we were able to
admire the abundant succulent sword-grass growing there, and
still more the full grandeur of a thunderstorm which came from
the south-east, accompanied by a deluge of rain, turning the
country into a lake in a few minutes.

Before the rain fell, however, I had been able to climb
Jebel Gikkor, and to take from its summit a series of bearings,
which was fortunate, as Jebel Oppei, near Agaru, and Jebel
Abayo were visible. Such bearings give a good basis for
laying down routes. A correct triangulation could easily be
made from this point, were time and instruments at command.

The farther one proceeds to the south-east, the more savan-
nah-like does the country become; and the Lingo country
has the same character, if those who have been there may be
believed. - While at Jebel Gikkor there is still to be seen a
small wood, the red or chocolate-coloured country beyond it
is only covered with high grass, or, in moist places, with reeds
and Cyperus, scarcely a tree being visible. In front of us
neither mountain nor hill could be seen ; only the far-stretching
undulations of the country were to be distinguished, as it
gently rose and fell beneath corresponding waves of grass.
To the north, the land rises, following the general dip of the
country towards the south; otherwise there is nothing but
wide undulating grassy tracts, and a semblance of woods in
the distance, due to the perspective accumulation of the few
trees.

The station of Fajuli, situated amidst such surroundings
and built in a sort of caldron, is not a very desirable place to

THE L&NGO COUNTRY. 251
stay in, as may be gathered from what has just been said, but
it is exceedingly important as a centre for trade with the
Lingo districts to the east and south-east of it. Ivory figures
here as an article of commerce, as well as ostrich feathers,
which, hitherto neglected, are to be procured in large quanti-
ties, for the broad savannahs of the Lingo country harbour
large numbers of the birds. I have therefore given such
orders as will not only render the collection and transport
of the feathers profitable to the people, but will also ensure
the erection of enclosures for ostriches in all our stations, and
the introduction of ostrich farming. The eggs are hatched
by the simple method of placing them within heaps of corn,
the warmth of which effects the purpose.

Fajuli, having no streams, is supplied with drinking-water
from several wells which lie at the foot of the hills forming
the caldron. The largest of these reservoirs lies about a
quarter of an hour's walk to the south of the station, being
about half a mile long, and six feet deep. - Milk-white quartz
is seen round its edges. 'The water is yellowish, and has a
slightly vegetable taste. The supply throughout the year is
sufficient for the station as well as for the neighbouring Negro
villages.

According to information obtained here, the following
countries and districts succeed one another from the south
to the north-east. The district of Umiro extends from the
south-south-west to the south-east, and appears to be the
largest and most extensive of the Lingo countries. It has
already been mentioned by Speke under the Kiginda name
of Kidi. It is divided into numerous small districts, where
different dialects are spoken, and which are ruled over by
small chiefs. In the south-east, towards Usoga, there are
permanent villages. Farther to the east the inhabitants are
nomads. The nearest seribas may be reached from Fajuli in
four days. The road passes through the village of Konaa, in
the Lira district, to the villages of the district. Five
days' march to the south-east leads you to the country of
Lobbor, which is very mountainous. - The inhabitants of Farat-
jell, who are much molested by the people of Lobbor, brought
me a spear, a very small shield of giraffe's hide, and some

332 AGARU TO FAJULI,

unique head-dresses, made of beautifully dyed bird-skins.
In Lobbor they speak a language of their own, as well as
Shuli. Lireém, or Lorem, adjoins Lobbor on the north, and
is also called Aje, after its inhabitants; it is very populous,
and may be reached from here in five days, by way of Jebel
Facher, in an almost easterly direction. - The district of Koli-
ang lies next to that of Lirem. - Behind it, towards the east-
north-east, is the district of Bognia, visitors from which proved
to be of the Lingo type, with oval faces, flapped head-dresses,
and cowrie ornaments. Turkan, the sandy country lying to
the south, sinks in broad terraces, and possesses only a little
brackish water. Many mountains are however visible. Its
inhabitants are nomads. My men compared the vegetation
there to that of southern Kordofan. A sweet-scented Law-
sonia and large acacia woods are very abundant. I was told
of the phenomenal springs of Natefir, occupying a deep circular
hollow in the ground, which is filled with soil resembling
"ashes," and from which abundant supplies of good sweet
water can be obtained by digging. Directly behind Lobbor
lies Termayok. The district of Rom adjoins Koliang on the
north,

I give these notes with great reserve, especially with regard
to bearings, as my information was gained from Negroes; all
being well, I shall myself visit these countries in order to
inspect our stations.

The zoological specimens I obtained are scarcely worth
mentioning. Zosterops senegalensis and Tricholais elegans are
very common; Zonogastris phenmicoptera is rarer. We lost a
large black and white bird (perhaps a shrike-Urolestes) in the
high grass.

We were obliged to return by the same route, as our time
was limited. The country being flooded, owing to the almost
incessant rains, and every runnel of water having been trans-
formed into a gushing torrent, the passage of which caused
much delay, we got no farther on the first day than Jebel Leru-
ama. A night march enabled us to traverse the waterless
tract, which extends to Khor Dore, during the cool hours, but
we had to submit to a cold bath in the tall grass. - It is parti-
cularly unpleasant to march through extensive corn-fields, for

BACK AT FADIBEK. 253
not only do the stiff stalks strike sharply as they rebound, but
they also rain down a constant shower-bath from their panicles.
I procured some ducks for the cooking-pot on the Lan-
guello hill, and also took a series of ,compass bearings of the
surrounding mountain peaks. We then proceeded to Khor
Bagger, which, though much swollen, could be crossed by
swimming; but when we prepared to stay there for the nigh'g,
neither wood nor bamboo could be found for hutbuilding, and
so we had to continue our march until we reached the place
where we had stayed on the first night of our outward journey.
We arrived there in rather more than three hours, having thus
been marching for eight hours forty-five minutes altogether,
and at a rate exceeding two and a half miles an hour, whilst
on the outward journey the same distance took us ten hours.
We saw small troops of buffaloes on our way, and two extremely
large snakes-not pythons-which we did not succeed in
catching. The rain, which had been so excessive at Fajuli,
did not seem to have extended to this place, for the ground was
hard and dry. We had no view from Jebel Abayo, but that
is usually the case at midday, when the distant mountains
are veiled in mist. Having changed our porters, we kept
mainly to our old path, and reached our station at Fadibék,
where, however, we are only to have one day's rest.

3. From FapmmEér ri4 OBBo to LaBor®.

THE VILLAGE OF MADI-THE SO-CALLED MADI PEAK-IN THE FANYIQUARA
DISTRICT-ABUNDANCE OF STREAMS-THE FAGGAR-KEREFI ROAD.

Wr followed the path we had traversed last year as far as
the village of Agoro, which is situated among picturesque
rocks and luxuriant verdure. Every now and then we saw the
peak of a high mountain due north, but no one could tell me
its name. - It was said to be in the Bari country. - The village
of Midi appeared even more neglected than last year, when it
was at least hedged round with a bamboo fence. The pre-

r FADIBEK TO LABORE.

dominance of girls in all the villages about here was very
striking; I had already noticed it in Fajuli.

From Midi, we had to diverge from our last year's road and
take a path which led across the two small XAors of Okora and
Faggara, both of them full of water, and then reached another
khor, by which the station of Farajok is situated. - The march
was almost barren of topographical results, for clouds com-
pletely veiled the mountain chain running along on our right,
and only the solitary groups of the Lalak, Aggu, and the
smaller Akuero, lying in front of the chain, were momentarily
visible now and then. A wide rolling plain, with luxuriant
grass and very little timber, stretched out before us to the
west and north-west, and wherever depressions existed there
were muddy ponds or immense reed thickets, from which Cen-
tropus monachus could be heard, while a species of weaver-bird
(Euplectes franciscanus) and the widow-bird (Penthetriae ma-
croura) climbed about the stems. Shortly before reaching the
village of Miri, the road entered durrah-fields, which covered
the hillsides, enclosing small villages, and it then descended to
Khor Limur, a clear stream flowing over granite slabs. The
little station of Farajok is picturesquely situated on its northern
bank. It was erected to protect the road from Fadibék to
Labore, which here branches off from the Obbo road.

We passed through Yuaia, and halted at a little place called
Latinoto, where dome-shaped rocks afforded a good view over
the country. Since leaving Midi, we had been continually
marching through durrah-fields. The Shuli only eat red
durrah in cases of necessity, when, for instance, the eleusine
crop fails; as a rule, they employ it only for brewing beer, so
that the consumption of the latter article must be very consider-
able. The long mountain chain named Lobull, running up
from the south, is ten to fourteen miles distant, to the right
of our road; it must be about 3000 feet high, while its
principal summit, Lumoga, probably attains to 4000 feet.
Whether this is the " Midi Peak" of the maps I cannot say,
but I know that no peak exists in the Midi district, and
Jebel Lumoga, in the Shili district, is not, properly speaking,
a " peak." The traveller soon finds out how thoroughly de-
fective are the few existing maps of this country.

KHOR AXATAPPI
$3

A slight ascent soon brought us to a row of hills running
across our route; a lofty hill named Aliagair lay to our right
and to its left, overtopping it by some 200 feet, was the tilili
Ummoda, which we climbed. - Jebels Latjiet, Lamo, and Lalak
now lay behind us; the Lobull chain ran from east to north,
with Jebel Aggu and Akuero standing like bastions in front.
To the north and south-west a long row of mountain groups
was visible, among which was the twin pyramid of Jebel
Okirri, probably more than 5000 feet high, which is perhaps
the same mountain as that pointed out to me from the ridge
of Jebel Oppone, in the Liria district, and called Jebel Ekaia,
(Bari), and which was named Jebel Chufal in Latuka; at any
rate, it is identical with the mount " Asal " (@ honey '") of
Baker's map. I made the acquaintance here of Jebels Kaffai
and Lokalla, and saw my old friends Jebel Remo (Miidi-Lokoya)
and the Farshile range, for which I heard for the first time the
general name of Jebel Areda, Jebel Arda (" mountain of the
termites ") probably being a corruption of this name.

Khor Atappi, or Atabbi, was reached at noon, and forded ; it
rises in the Jamma mountains (which form the southern end of
the Lobull chain), at a long day's march from Fadibék, and at
the ford it flows from east to west, between gently sloping
banks. _ It is about forty feet broad, with swampy approaches,
but easy to cross, although there are some rocks in its bed
near the northern bank. The rise of the country at first
sufficed to conceal the mountains in front of us, and in the early
morning we could only just see the contours of the Lobull
range, which stood out sharply against the nocturnal sky.
We marched through the same monotonous undulating country
as the day before. From Jebel Chamma, a somewhat higher
hill, the grass became very troublesome, and briars foretold the
approaching jungle, in the midst of which were the durrah-
fields of a little village named Dogovura, which was hidden in
a thicket of castor-oil bushes. Khor Ayi, which we next
crossed, was fringed by a fine belt of trees, but had such
muddy banks that we sank in above the knee; throughout
the year it contains clear but rather yellowish water, and is
said to flow into the Bahr-el-Jebel. A short ascent through
woods brought us to the little station of Obbo, erected only a

256 FADIBEK TO LABORE.

few months ago, and very important as a junction of the roads
leading to Térangole (two very hard days' march), Fadibék
(two good days' march), and Labore (three long marches). A
boiling-point observation gave the height of Obbo (which is
not, by the bye, on the site of Baker's Obbo) as more than 3000
feet.

Obbo is the most northerly outlying division of the Shuli
country, not counting Ber, which is cut off by Latika; Latika
tribes dwell to the north-east (Jebel Ifuddu), Bari to the north-
west, and Midi to the west. The people have adhered very
faithfully to their Shuli manners and customs, and the language
spoken in Fajuli is perfectly identical with that spoken here.
"Old Kachiba," the rainmaker, died long ago, and was suc-
ceeded by one of his 120 sons, but the people are still hospi-
table, friendly, and obliging.

Very hilly country, covered with high grass, and in many
places with thick brushwood, extends from Khor Ayi, which we
forded, to Khor Ovidda, which loses itself in a ravine, and
seems in places to be blocked up with boulders. In spite of
the mountainous character of the country, it sinks so much that
the ancroid fell from 26.56 inches at Obbo to 27.05 inches at
the latter kor. _- The whole land is hilly, and intersected by very
numerous small AkMors; it is industriously cultivated, and its
alternate fields and park land present an exceedingly diversified
aspect.

Ogilli, three and a half hours' distant from Khor Ovidda, is
the first and the principal zeribe« of the district of Fanyiquara,
which we entered here, the Ovidda being the boundary both of-
the Obbo and Shuli districts. The population of Fanyiquara
consists of Midi; they are easily recognisable by their language,
which is similar to those spoken on the west of the river.
After a farewell look at Jebel Okkiri, the march was recom-
menced, for the chief of Ogilli kindly supplied us at once with
men to carry our few loads. The little kAors, most of which
were dry, became so numerous that in a quarter of an hour's
march we had crossed four of therm. We were still in a
mountainous country, where the rain was powerful enough to
excavate channels even in stone! The ground, which had
fallen, began to rise again perceptibly towards the ranges of

DESERTED BY THE PORTERS. 257

hills in front of us, which formed part of the mountain system
that extends from Dufilé, and follows the eastern side of the
river as far as Labore. - Cultivated fields and small villages
were scattered among the hills, and the scenery was very lovay,
so that the march was a pleasant one, especially as the way led
over level red clay, free from briars and other obstacles.

The village of Fagger, the huts of which are scattered over
a large circular terrace, is the capital of the Fandikér district
and is encireled by a chain of hills. (Crops of durrah, eleusine:
tobacco, and sesame grow here, and the little Midi cucumber
twines itself about the stalks in every direction.

Little remains to be said about the road from this point to
Kérefi and Labore. The porters supplied to us at Fagger
begged permission to start early and go on in advance, in order
to get back here again in good time from Kérefi, so two of our
men were sent with them, and we followed more leisurely,
through mist, which was so thick that we could only just
manage to find the path, We did not, however, lose much as
regards scenery, for the open forest, covering consecutive rows of
hills, was very uniform, and was only varied at times by a rich
growth of vegetation near some of the numerous Ahors. Cross-
ing Khor Yibi, a broad stony, dry ravine, we came to the
village of Déreto, which was quite hidden in corn-fields, and
here we were annoyed to find that the Fagger porters had no
sooner laid down their loads, ostensibly to take a rest, than they
disappeared. Déreto was quite a small place, and though
Chief Yata did his utmost to get our things carried on, he
could not find enough porters, so we had to march two hours
farther to Kérefi, and send back some of the porters from there.
The path led over red clay completely covered with rubble, and
slightly down hill through park land and woods, with here and
there a solitary pile of rocks. Kérefi itself had undergone no
change since last year ; I even found my old huts standing.

The road we took from here to the river deviated slightly
from that followed last year. The names I heard for most of
the kAhors were different from those given me last year, but I
am inclined to prefer the ones told me this year, because my
guide belonged to this place, and seemed to be well informed.
The red sandy flats which extend from Khor Merve to the

R

238 > LABOEBE TO FATIKO.

Kuitu hills are overgrown with acacias, Balanites, and, unfor-
tunately, with Randia also, and glossy thrushes (Zamprocolius
chalcurus) were flitting over them in remarkable numbers.
The weaver-birds, still moulting, were busily repairing their
'hanging nests, which shows that the rainy season has not yet
set in here. The handsome Astur metabates is very common
everywhere, and seems to take the place of its northern relative
A. polyzonus. - We descended by rather steep natural stairs to
the river, which we reached exactly two hours thirty-four
minutes after we had left Kérefi, as compared with two hours
forty minutes last year.

Having been ferried across the river, which was already
(May 26) swollen with rain that. had fallen in the south, we
soon reached Labore, and there ended our expedition, which
I hope has not proved altogether fruitless in regard to the
geography of this district.

4. FROM LaBGorE ri4 FADIBEK TO FatfGo.*

OPPOSITE LABORE-A MADIL FUNERAL-CONFUSION IN THE GEOGRAPHICAL
NOMENCLATURE-MADI VILLAGES-BARL DISTRICT-KHOR ATAPPI-
THE HOT SPRINGS OF KHOR ASUA-A GREYISH-GREEN LANDSCAPE-
ETHNOGRAPHICAL NOTES ON THE SHUOLL-FADIBEK -A LAND OF
THORNS-SHOLL HUTS-APICULTURE-CHIEF AKUOK-SHCOLL SMITHS-
SHOCLI CUSTOMS-THE VIEW FROM JEBEL ABAYO-FRIEND ROCHAMA's3
WELCOME.

 

THE ferry across the Nile near Labore lies about two-thirds
of a mile above the station on the way to Khor Ayu. As the
river there is scarcely more than 200 feet broad, it did not
take us long to cross, and we landed a little farther to the

* A letter forwarded with this paper to Herr Hansal, the Austro-Hungarian
Consul at Khartium, dated Widelai, November 28, 1880, reads as follows :-

«*The notes contained in the enclosed pages were collected and compiled during
a tour of inspection in the south ; their somewhat cursory form may perhaps be
excused, on the ground that I had neither time nor inclination to round off and
polish materials collected in the midst of grass and thorns. If, therefore, I ven-
ture to request that the notes may be kindly forwarded to the " Royal and Imperial
Geographical Society " in Vienna, to be used as thought best, it is because the

PLANS AND PROSPECTS. 259

north, having been carried somewhat down the stream by the
current. 'The bank is about five feet high; it is formed of
alluvial soil, and is well wooded. The current presses upon the
western bank, as is made evident by the existence of numerous
islands on the eastern side, which is not exposed to the de-
structive action of floods. The chain of hills which runs
along the eastern side of the river from Muggi is here called

Kuitu, and is only separated from the river by a narrow strip
of land.

territory I passed through, although partly traversed by other travellers, has been
but very inadequately explored, and still more imperfectly described, so that fresh
information is desirable."

"I should certainly have pushed on from Fadibék eastwards, where a terra in-
cognita awaits the traveller, if it had not been for limited time and numerous
administrative duties elsewhere. As it was, I had to be satisfied with what
came under my notice in the districts nearer my headquarters, and I can only
claim the indulgence of the Society for the insignificance of the gift I offer it. I
was unable to map out any routes, owing to a severe wound, which rendered my
journey from Fatiko to this place very trying, especially as no riding animals were
at my command. In what direction I shall next direct my steps I cannot at pre-
sent decide. Should I find it possible to go by land from here through Luibari and
Kaliké to Makrakd, I shall certainly do so, but if not, I may probably go through
Ladd straight to Monbuttu, and from there open up a route to the lake. As the
result of my journey, I have some fresh supplies of ivory ready to be sent off,
besides which, contracts have been made with the southern chiefs for further sup-
plies, and so I hope that the Government will be satisfied. I have received a
friendly invitation from Chief Mbio, who has been considered unapproachable for
the last eighteen years, and I intend to avail myself of it, for the wealth of this
Nyam-Nyam ruler in ivory has become almost proverbial, and I have always
had at heart the opening up of friendly communications with the native chiefs.
My men are at present engaged in the erection of a new station at LiGgo,
and Mbio's invitation reached me through them. Two new stations have been
erected in Latuika, and a third is to be established in Ber. I have established a
station at Fadibék, with sub-stations in Agaru, Fajuli, and Fatinga-the latter
is not yet erected-as well as stations in the south. We have advanced from
Wadelai to Okoro. So much for my year's work."

"There are in the province about 1400 officers and soldiers, and about 200
irregulars."

"As usual, I have endeavoured to collect zoological and ethnological specimens,
and shall venture to send to you by the next steamer all I have."

"I am unable to communicate any fresh news from Ugdnda. The men last sent
to me by Mtésa, with presents and letters, found Mruli deserted, and fearing lest
their retreat should be cut off by Kabréga's people, they returned at once to
Uganda, while their letters reached me through Rionga's men. I am now ex-
pecting men daily from Kabréga, and, should they come, I will quickly re-establish
my relations with Uginda. The chief of Toru has offered me a free passage
through his territory."

260 LARORE TO FATIKO,

Scattered granite blocks mark the ascent along which our
road led up to the ridge of the hills. Open wood and high
grass, with bushes of all sorts, Zizyphus, Balanites, and abun-
dant Randia, covered the ground and shut out nearly all view ;
now and then we saw for a moment the peaks of Jebel Foki
and the broad back of Atikki.

The road wound at random through the rank grass, in which
bamboo but seldom appeared. _ After crossing Khor Tipalanga,
a distant view was obtained of a chain of hills, the general
direction of which was about parallel to the road, but slight
deflections occurred where small streams flowed through gullies
to the river. - Several small Madi enclosures formed the village
of 05, which stood on a ridge above Khor Merve, in the midst
of pulse and hibiscus plants. Large quantities of a cucumber
called by the Madi wurdzu lay in front of the huts, and a
high termite hill in the centre of the village afforded a view
over the country, and enabled me to take compass bearings.
The rise from Labore to this place is very considerable; the
aneroid here read 27.87 in., while at Labore the reading was
28.02 in. A short march brought us to Khor Kilive, the
largest stream in this region; it is probably never dry, for
prolific vegetation grows beside it, and crops abound in the
neighbourhood. We reached the zeribe of Kérefi, our night
quarters, after a march of exactly two hours and fifty-two
minutes.

The night before our arrival a leopard had made its way into
the little village and killed a man, consequently we had the oppor-
tunity of witnessing a funeral. A cireular hole, about three
feet in diameter and five feet deep, was dug in front of one of
the huts, and the corpse, clothed in a skin, was placed in it in
a squatting position, with arms and legs drawn up. Then earth
was shovelled in and stamped firmly down, and the grave was
covered over with stone slabs. The bereaved wives, who were
now inherited by the son of the deceased, wept in an orthodox
manner during the ceremony, and when it was over everybody
went about his business. I was told of a curious belief exist-
ing in a village not far from here, whose inhabitants are said
to have the power of turning themselves at night into leopards
and of killing and devouring men. I remember hearing of a

A CHIEFS GRAVE. 261

similar belief in Unyoro, and on the Blue Nile the
« hysena-men " is absolutely believed.

There has been a drought here this year, and therefore there
is a good deal of poverty in the villages, but, notwithstanding
this, our porters were given some corn to eat. In the middle
of the village, which consists of the usual small M4di huts, in-
fested by bugs, the mother of the reigning chief is buried ; a
flat stone and several long poles, on which hang amulets, mark
the grave. The father of the chief is buried at the entrance
of the village, his grave being marked by an upright stone
about seven feet high, and a post notched at its upper end.
Wooden memorial figures, like those placed in the Bari burial
huts, do not exist among the Midi. Large heaps of sycamore
figs lie in front of the houses. Scrotal hernias are exceedingly
common here among the men.

Descending the hill from Kérefi to regain the main road, we
had to cross a little kAor which winds round the hill and then
joins Khor Kilive. We passed numerous enclosures surrounded
by well-tilled fields, some of them belonging to the village we
had just left, and the others, from Khor Lekir onwards, to the
community of Absdsa. - Baker's district, Fanyiquara, does not lie
near the river, but is merely a village community to the south-
west of Obbo. Fine tall trees were left standing in the fields
and clearings, and in their branches we heard the cackling of
the plantain-eaters (Schizcerhis). The range of hills to the west
of the Nile presented a wondrous view, the glowing shades of
blue being relieved by a shifting veil of white and grey clouds.
After this the ground rose again considerably, and when we
had passed Khor Lebbii, Jebel Médi-Lokoya (named Madi-
Lucquoia on the maps) came into sight; this latter name was
probably heard by Speke from the Danagla who accompanied
him, but the mountain is called Remo by the Madi, and appears
as Bemo on Grant's excellent map. The village of Odukwe,
where we stayed the night, was situated, like all Madi villages,
upon the ridge of a hill, and, in contrast to the general rule,
was surrounded by a very strong zerib@, and, for a wonder, ib
was very neatly kept. Outside the village stood a tall, magni-
ficent tree, a Khaya (Midi, Fri; Shili, Tido), specimens of
which are met with rather frequently from this latitude south-

legend of

262 LABORE TO FATIKO,

wards, and, like the Soymida, are quite ornaments to the forest.
The fruit is the size of a small apple, and enclosed in a hard,
woody shell. Jebel Remo, the slopes of which are scantily
wooded, stood out here in a very imposing manner.

The small districts which surround this place are as follows :
-Fanyiquara, Fandikér, Falibék, Vorolo, Takalla, Bongo, the
last being inhabited by Shuli. Next to the river lise Yodzi,
Dana, Pimeto, Ibi, and Bari. From an ant-hill in the fields
Jebel Labilla (Abu Sala) was indistinctly seen to the south-east,
and the mountains of Obbo to the north-north-east, Drinking-
water is obtained here from wells, the nearest Aor being at
some distance. Extensive fields of sesame, eleusine, and hibis-
cus were succeeded by open forest, while mountain groups still
appeared to the lef‘fi, in the front of the road. - Khor Iti was next
reached ; it is rather narrow, but carries down a rapid torrent
of water to the larger Khor Atappi. Its upper course was
marked for a short distance on our left by a row of trees. We
turned away from it, and then passed between high hills, having
on our left the isolated hill of Itiago, and on our right the long
ridge of Lofurri. The path was overgrown by wild grass and
isolated clumps of bamboo. Taking a south-westerly direction,
we marched through well-cultivated fields containing ornamental
groups of beautiful trees. The pretty Pogonorhynchus Rolleti
and, in the corn-fields, the harlequin quail (Coturniz Delegorguei)
were frequently met with.

This district is called Bari. Upon a height above Khor Iti
lies the large village of Anyisori, in the midst of garden-like
surroundings, its numerous homesteads covering the country
far and wide. A striking contrast was presented by the deso-
late hilly country, overgrown with high grass and dense brush-
wood, which we entered, after a short rest in the village. Here
troops of elephants were busy gathering mabbak (the fruit of
the Zizyphus). A very difficult road through briars and grass,
with ridges of granite running across it, brought us at last to
the large Khor Atappi, which we forded with ease, as it had
not rained for a long time. It is a fine channel, about sixty
feet broad and five feet deep, and above the ferry it flows with
a strong current almost due west. Dense forest and bushes of
Zizygium adorned the high banks ; granite blocks, felspar, and

KHOR ASUA, 263

mica were visible here and there. Numerous butterflies flew
out of the trees, and we very frequently heard the Schizorhis
zonura. - The road again ascended, and the mountain of Domi
became our landmark. - The country before us was entirely
uninhabited, but, on that account, the more frequented by
herds of elephants and buffaloes, and the presence of still more
dangerous company was indicated by the numerous spoors of
lions on our path, Shortly after noon our road approached
Mount Domi, but as it soon took a more easterly direction,
the mountain was left on our right. Our path afforded us
an occasional glimpse of the mountain peaks on the west of
the Nile. We reached at last the Midi settlement, Agudze,
where a part of the population of Farshile has established
itself in three strong zeribas A heavy storm broke over
us here.

As we were informed late in the evening that guides were
awaiting us at a village lying a little farther to the south, we
marched to that place next morning. The road took us down-
hill and across Khor Kulukéu, on the banks of which were
scattered numerous boulders, but we could not find a drop of
water. After another steep descent, we gained Khor Asus,
but soon left its sandy bed on our right. There seemed to be
very little water; broad sandbanks and numerous granite
boulders were visible. From this point the khor flows past
Jebel Domi, which lies on its right bank, and it receives the
waters of the Atappi before it enters the Nile. Linant's route
lies farther to the west. The village of Odiri, to which we
were bound, was recognisable at some distance, from a pile of
rocks and a magnificent tamarind. Millions of green hairy
caterpillars unfortunately rendered the shade of the trees un-
comfortable. In order to reach Khor Asua, we had now to
return along the old road, and then to turn a little more to
the west, when we soon arrived at the bed of the river, which
is here exactly eighty-eight feet broad and three feet deep.
It had not rained for a long time; in fact, very little rain has
fallen during the kharif this year, which may account for
the river looking so insignificant. Banks of yellow coarse
quartz sand bordered the stream in places, and large boulders
were still more frequent. The banks were six to eight feet

264 LABORE-TO FATiKO.

high; they sloped down gently, and were scantily clothed with
vegetation.

On the left bank of the river, whlch here flows due north,
thick smoke appeared, and as we approached I fancied that I
perceived a very slight smell of sulphur. From large clefts
between the boulders, and still oftener from springs close by the
river, there bubbles out perfectly clear hot water, without taste or
smell, at a temperature of from 137.3 to 1 3.8.3° Fahr. (at diffe-
rent places), forming a small brook forty-six inches broad and
three inches deep. _ In this little channel two other springs gush
forth, whirling up thick mud. - By measuring with & stick, I
found a rocky bottom at a depth of twelve inches. The tempera- -
ture of the air was 72.5° Fahr.; that of the river water, 77°
Fahr. ; the aneroid read 27.69 in. A boiling-point observation,
made somewhat later, resulted in 208.8° Fahr., the temperature
of the air being 73.4" Fahr., and the aneroid indicating 27.69
in. - No deposit of efflorescence was noticed near the springs,
and no plants or animals were to be seen around, except the
boiled body of an inquisitive frog. In the middle of the river,
somewhat higher up, there are other warm springs, having a
lower temperature, viz., 104° Fahr. - The whole of the western
sandbank appears to be undermined by hot springs, for a very
short distance below the surface the ground becomes hot and
moist. - After a course of about ten feet, the little streamlet flows
into the river, and makes its water warm to the touch for some
distance. _ The whole ground must be quite under water when
the river is at full flood. The water from these hot springs is
credited with great healing power, especially for syphilis and
skin diseases. The practice of scattering corn and flour round
the springs indicates a traditional reverence for them. These
springs, together with those on Jebel Labilla and that to the
south of Fatiko, appear to originate in one and the same large
basin. I took some of the water for analysis I found many
wing-shells in the river. Farshile lies to the south-west of
this place, and may be reached in about three hours and a half.

Undulating grass land, strewn over with boulders, rose
gently before us; but few trees were visible, and most of
those were distorted by fire. A very lofty tree stood out
upon the ridge of the hills, forming a good landmark. - Jebel

CHARACTER OF THE VEGETATION, 2653

Domi was still on our left, while to the right Khor Chuki
though a good way off, could be distinguished by the fringe>
of trees along its banks. We presently crossed it, and could
see that the gigantic blocks bordering its bed had been seulp-
tured by the water, and not been brought down by floods.
An extensive view from the next hill gave an opportunity of
taking the bearings of the previously unknown mountains and
mountain groups in the Shuli district, which we were about to

enter. Jebel Namo, lying in the district of Fadot, was very.

imposing. A rapid ascent over hilly country, overgrown with

very high grass, brought us to a rivulet, where we expected to'

~ find water;. but it was quite dry, and digging procured only a
little coffee-brown, bad-smelling liquid. A little farther on
we found a pool of rain-water, which, to judge by its colour
and taste, must have been used by elephants and buffaloes for
toilet purposes; but our thirst had been unquenched for six
hours, in a temperature of 33° C. in the shade, so we were not
very particular.

The country was entirely uninhabited, and the grass so high
that it was difficult even to use the compass, especially as the
path turned and twisted every moment. Where woods inter-
vened, they were fairly uniform-acacias, Kigelias, and num-
bers of Sarcocephalus caught the eye, and the tamarinds were
particularly fine and numerous. As a rule, the country from
Lado to beyond 3° N. lat. presents the same grey mono-
tonous green, the same stiff leather-like foliage, interrupted
only at the kors by a more succulent verdure and some
variety of species. Towards the south the vegetation assumes
a different and more cheerful character. _ As regards the
animals of this region, lions, leopards, and hysenas alarmed
us every night, and the cheetah is particularly common.
Buffaloes, elephants, and various kinds of antelopes (the com-
monest being Antilope oreas) abound. On account of the high
grass, we could only hear the birds. A large species of python
is frequently met with at the AMors.

During a slight thundershower, we reached the Shuli village
of Fanto, and were soon busily engaged in building our huts.
Taught by experience, I have long since discarded the incon-
venient practice of carrying a tent about with me ; every wood

v. -.’

 

266 LABORE TO FATIKO.

furnishes abundance of long switches and branches, which,
driven into the ground in a circle, are arched over and bound
together with bast; thus a framework is formed resembling a
hencoop, and is strengthened by hoops or switches tied round
it, and thatched with grass held in place by strips of bast and
thin switches. A shelter is thus formed which is large enough
to contain an ankareb, a few boxes, a table, and a chair, and
which resists the rain and storm better than a tent. One hour
is quite sufficient for a few men to construct a comfortable hut.

The village of Fanto is inhabited by Shuli, but the huts are
like those of the Madi, and do not resemble the Shuli dwell-
ings farther north, which are built like Shifluk huts. Each
hut has a small, carefully fenced tobacco plantation (Micotiana
rustica), beside which lie heaps of ashes for strewing over the
plants and the soil, as a protection against insects. Small cala-
bashes are grown, and Helimia@ bulbifera, which, however, is
more common in the Midi than in the Shuli districts. Only
the round subterranean bulbs are eaten, and when I gathered
some of the aerial bulbs I was strongly urged to leave them
alone, the men saying that they would kill me. Red durrah,
sesame, eleusine, and a little dukhn (Penicillaria) are the chief
articles of food ; but throughout the Shuli country eleusine
corn is preferred for eating, while red durrah is used for brew-
ing, and eaten only in times of need. Whenever the eleusine
crop fails, as it partially did this year, the people everywhere
complain of hunger, although there is abundance of red durrah.
Besides these cereals, there are numerous plants of which the
seeds or leaves are eaten as vegetables. T'wo sorts of cucumber,
two of hibiscus, oneof them (ZZibiscus cannabina) used for making
packthread, the other grown for its seeds, and a species of
Echinops, from which salt is made, are cultivated everywhere.
Each hut contains large water-jars and small cooking vessels
of clay, of the usual shapes. Here, as elsewhere, the pottery
is made by women, and it is only south of 2° N. lat. that this
work devolves upon the men. Every woman lives with her
children in a hut of her own, and has her own granary. In
front of each dwelling there usually stands a miniature hut,
containing some corn, small bones, &c., and near it a kind of
miniature sleeping-bench is placed, and is looked upon as a

A DESERTED COUNTRY, 267

| prophylactic for all sorts of skin disease. I did not see any
domestic animals, but the huts in the Shilli and in some parts
of the Madi district are infested with bugs.

The clear weather that followed the storm enabled us to get
a good view of the Latiika range, which is quite Alpine in
character, and contains elevations rising probably to 4000
feet. The Shuli call the whole chain " Ablenyim," from nyim,
sesame, and ab/é, wanting, because the inhabitants possess very
little sesame, and obtain their supplies from the Shuli country.
Besides this nickname, each portion of the long chain has
probably a name of its own.

The road from Fanto wound in a long curve, skirting the
mountain group of Adodi and leading through several clear-
ings, which, to judge from the presence of some straggling
durrah and sesame plants, must have been at one time under
cultivation. We then ascended, between parallel ranges of hills,
to the prettily situated village of Laguerion, which name has
quite a French sound, owing to the nasal pronunciation of the
on. The village of Yuaia, where our Midi porters turned
back and were replaced by Shuli, belongs to the district of
Farajok. - Obbo lies to the north of this place, Labongo to the
south, Fallibék to the south-west, Fadibék to the south-east,
and Madi to the east-south-east. The station of Fadibék stands
on Mount Latjiet, which is distinguished by its double peak, and
lies almost due south-east. The chief of the little village kindly
presented me with three baskets of flour, and expressed his
devotion to me by lifting my hands alternately, then turning
them round, licking the palms and wiping them with his hand,
while all the time his face wore an expression of the greatest
delight. The frisures and ornaments of the people corre-
spond exactly to the description I gave previously. Every
one has his under-lip pierced, and wears in it polished quartz
pins, brass cylinders, or straws.

Fortunately, little dew fell at night, so that the porters
were more willing to start early, as they had not the prospect
of a cold bath. Khor Limiir, which we reached after a very
tiring march through thickets of reeds and rushes, possesses
good pure water, a pleasant contrast to that which we had been
drinking for two days, which was a thin solution of dirt and

268 f LABORE TO FATIKO.

mud. Passing through a broad defile, a beautiful landscape
opened out before us. Fresh green fields, with here and there a
few majestic trees, were bordered with hills, on the tops of which
were bare piles of stones, forming fantastic outlines against the
clear sky. Such a scene amply compensates for many difficulties.
From a high hill, the burnt rock of which looked like cast-iron,
we obtained another good view over the long Latika range,
which runs up from the north, and which is called here by the
general name of Lumoga (the g is pronounced like the Arabic
ghain). f

We next marched through exceptionally high grass (this
country ranks after north Unyoro for the abundance of its
grass and thorns), the pointed beards of which penetrated our
clothes and pricked like needles. 'The village of Midi, in the
district of the same name, is fenced. in by split bamboo, as is
the case in all the succeeding villages to the south-east, passion-
flowers and Cucurbitacese twining their tendrils over the fence.
The bamboos from the immediate neighbourhood are also used
as fuel, wood being scarce. Towards the south some slender
doléb palms were visible, and Amomums were plentiful at the
hor, but unfortunately the fruit was not ripe. The inhabi-
tants appear to be keen hunters; netted hoops were hung
before the huts for catching francolins and bustards, which
are said to be plentiful. If a bird steps into the hoop and
gets caught in the network, it cannot escape. Snares for
antelopes are constructed on the same principle, like those
seen in Uganda and Unyoro.

The porters engaged for the next march assembled at mid-
night and held a veritable dancing orgie in the bright moon-
light, accompanied by all sorts of conceivable and inconceivable
noises. Towards morning, however, they fortunately went to
sleep, having realised with horror that they were expected to
start early, in the cold (64° Fahr.), and to march through the
wet grass. Thus it was late when we left Madi, and after
marching through its extensive fields, we came to another
little village, where all the trees were hung over with straw
beehives, showing that we had now reached a honey-producing
district. - While a great deal of honey is obtained in Makraki,
its quality, however, being rather deteriorated by the method

FADIBEK. 269

of extraction by fire, the Bari country produces no honey at
all, and the eastern part of the Midi country but little: On
the other hand, the whole of the Shuli country abounds in
good white honey, owing to the practice of hanging the bee-
hives upon the trees. In Unyoro, where cylinders of bark
are used instead of baskets, the honey is also good, and has
a fine aromatic flavour; perhaps the elevation of the country
has some effect upon it.

The rest of the way to Fadibék was rather picturesque ;
cultivated fields alternated with thin acacia woods, scattered
boulders and small swampy channels bordered by rank
vegetation, until we reached a high towering rock, against
which was situated the village of Agoro, surrounded by
luxuriant crops and girt with dark masses of foliage. The
Shuli usually choose picturesque sites for their villages. A
short descent brought us to the station of Fadibék, which is
built here upon a low hill.

The Government formerly possessed here a flourishing, well-
situated, and healthy station (Fadibék is more than 3000 feet
high), but when Gordon Pasha, from motives of economy, gave
orders for the evacuation of all the southern stations, this also
had to be abandoned, although its revenue in ivory far sur-
passed the yearly expenses. - Since that time, the chief, Aguodk,
repeatedly requested that a station occupied by regular soldiers
might be erected near him, and had brought ivory to Fatiko
as a present. His wishes were readily complied with, for the
new Governor-General has no objection to the erection of
stations, provided they cover their expenses, and this new
station is prospering very well, on account of the active
assistance of the Negroes, and promises to become one of the
finest in our province.

We failed to procure guides here to Agaru, which lies about
a day and a half's march to the north-east, owing to the aver-
sion of the people to the inhabitants of that country, where
a small station is about to be built for the collection of pro-
duce from Irenga and Turkan. The road to the south-east
passes through Labongo, Fallibék, and Fajulli to Fatinga,
near Jebel Lira, where another station is in course of erection,
with the object of opening up the Lango districts Unfortu-

270 LABORE TO FATIKO.

nately, the season of the year rendered this direct road to
Fauvera impracticable, and, much against my inclination, I was
compelled to go by way of Fatiko. 'The route from here to
Dufilé was said to lie in a westerly direction, but no one had
travelled by it. Khor Asua, which lies at some distance from
here, is crossed, they say, in going to Fatiko.

Chief Aguok has become a thorough Dongolaui in dress and
manner, speaks Arabic fairly, sits and sleeps on an ankareb,
and regales his guests with coffee, but nevertheless his numerous
wives and children appeared in the national costume, 4.¢., almost
nude, adorned only with short tails of cotton. - The Shuli have
a greater liking for glass beads than any other tribe of this
country ; small crimson and white opal beads are particularly
prized. The men plait cowrie-shells and beads in their hair,
but their tresses are not so elaborately arranged as among the
Shuli living farther to the south and east. Iron ornaments
are everywhere the order of the day, and the gorgets, which
actually cause the neck muscles underneath to shrink, and
bracelets and anklets, as well as chains and ornaments for the
girdles, are very neatly made. A Shuli smith was working
close to the chief's premises. _ His bellows were formed of large
clay vessels, having, at their bases, spouts drawn out at right
angles to carry the blast; they were covered at the top with
leather, having rods fastened in the middle, which are worked
up and down to cause the draught, and are kept in action by a
boy. Large stones serve as anvil and hammer; the tongs are
made of a piece of wood, split at the end, and a piece of iron
to polish the work completes the apparatus. Fining the iron
is never practised. At the time of our visit bits were being
made for donkeys, which are numerous.

The men are clothed in sking of antelopes, goats, and sheep,
and skins of the cheetah (Cynailurus guttatus) are also much
worn. . If a rag of cloth can be procured, it is worn somehow,
the head being covered first. Ostrich feathers are much ad-
mired, and are worn as head ornaments, the white feathers
being dyed red with iron ochre. - The ostrich is said to abound
throughout the Ldngo country.

Girls go about quite nude, and the women's dress consists
only of a tail of cotton threads, twelve inches long, hanging

SHULI MANNERS.

271

behind from the girdle, and a covering of cotton threads, about
three fingers broad, in front. Girls wear only five or six
threads, hanging down in front from the girdle. Iron and
brass rings are worn wherever it is possible to put them, and
their jingling noise is heard at a distance, announcing the
approach of one of the fair sex. The Shiulli women are not
ugly when young, and really pretty faces are often seen among
them, but their reputation is none of the best, and it is said
that their husbands are not very sensitive about the vagaries of
their better-halves. I have formerly described the sleeping-
huts where boys and girls learn morality.

In all the villages there are places of assembly for men
and women, i.e., sloping benches made of logs, on which they
stretch themselves to smoke and talk; Burton has already
described them. - The favourite resorts of young men are high
scaffoldings like watchtowers, commanding an extensive out-
look. Miniature huts, magic plants for use in hunting and
war, trees decked with skulls and bones, are met with every-
where.

The station of Fadibék is surrounded by numerous Shuli
hamlets, all neatly enclosed in bamboo fences ; their well-tilled
fields extend far around, and through them winds a little kAor
with such luxuriant vegetation, that for the moment you forget
that this is the sparsely wooded Shuli country. Clumps of
slender date-palms, half buried in thick underwood, look very
graceful. The chief of all the Shuli, Rochima, an old gentle-
man who is very proud of his pure Wawitu descent, and with
whom I was previously acquainted, sent his son to invite me
to visit him, as illness prevented him coming to see me; so
we turned off in the direction of his residence.

Broad ridges of hills strewn with rocks and boulders, and
clothed with open forest, stretched out before us, and numerous
hamlets lay scattered over the well-tilled country. A good
view was obtained from a high bare dome, Abayo, against
which the village Lungudi nestles, and as we had to change
porters here, I had time to look round. ' 'The bare granite was
so steep that I could hardly get a foothold. There must be a
splendid view from the top (260 feet above the village) in
clear weather, but on this occasion smoke and fog interfered

272 LABORE TO FATIKO.

with it. Far to the south-east lay mountain groups, one of
which, Farabongo, I was told, could be reached in four days'
march.. Jebel Shua was fairly distinct, but Jebel Julu and
Jebel Kija were veiled in mist. I saw an incredible number
of large leaf-bugs filling all the recesses of the rock and emitting
a disgusting odour. Some of the porters assigned to us here
had full beards, though as a rule one never sees bearded
Negroes in this part of the country. Large quantities of
sesame were under cultivation along our route. - Passing the
large hamlet of Kyatangura, we entered the district of Labongo.
We had met with this name before in the Lrir district; the
recurrence of it here among the Shuli, whose close affinity to
the Liir is sufficiently proved by their language, is very striking.
A good deal of confusion may, however, arise from the fact
that here, as in Makrakd, whenever the soil is exhausted, the
villages are removed, and their names disappear with them.
Hence it is very necessary, for the benefit of future travellers,
to give correct names to the kAors and mountains, the un-
changeable features of the country. We had still to pass
several widespreading hamlets before reaching our night's
quarters, situated beside a pool which contains rain-water all
the year, and which, like the village, is named Diendi. At
every hamlet we passed, the chief came to greet me, generally
dressed in a long coloured shirt and a tarbush, and accom-
panied 'by a motley crowd of men and women. The Shuli
are a very polite people, always ready with greetings and
inquiries after one's health, but as their national greeting
consists of raising the arms of the visitor four or five times
above his head, the repetition of the ceremony becomes rather
fatiguing.

Our next marches, though not unreasonably long, taxed
every one's strength severely, on account of the high grass.
Unless the nature of the country; its inhabitants, or other
pressing reasons, render it absolutely necessary, I always con-
sider it foolish to make porters with whom one is going to
travel long distances march more than six hours a day. On
the road from Diendi to Khor Bagger, the most important
tributary of the Asua after the Atappi, the grass and its accom-
panying inconveniences surpassed anything I had seen before.

oN A VISIT TO ROCHAMA. 273

A storm during the night had beaten down the long grass
stalks and quite concealed the path. We had therefore to fight
our way through damp bogs, enormous grasses, and thickets
of bamboo, no pleasant combination. We breathed freely
again at last, when, after more than three hours' struggle, we
reached the stony ridge along which lies the village of Latjiet,
amidst picturesque rocks. After crossing a range of hills, the
highest of which was the cone-shaped Nyone, we left the dis-
trict of Labongo and soon arrived at Khor Bagger. Its rapid
torrent was confined by banks, some ten feet high, on which
flood-marks six feet above the present level were plainly visible ;
the water reached up to our waists and roared over numerous
boulders. At the ford, the bed of the Zor, which elsewhere
is fifty to sixty feet broad, widens out considerably, and is
divided by boulders into deep channels. The force of the cur-
rent presses upon the southern bank, along which loam-pillars,
about eight feet in diameter and overgrown with rushes, rise
above the level of the river. These are fragments of that part
of the bank which has been torn away by its current. Unlike
all the streams we had hitherto passed, which were of a muddy
yellow colour, the water in Khor Bagger was very clear and
good. Its source is said to lie in Lirem, a district of the
Lingo country.

After a short rest on the southern bank, the march was
continued. Jebel Goma stood as a landmark before us. The
real dip of the country begins at the ridge on which the village
of Layima stands; the ranges of high hills which we had suc-
cessively passed during the previous days lay behind us, shut-
ting out the horizon like a wall. A boiling-point observation
(207.1° Fahr., temp. 84° C.) confirmed the fact that we were
descending. In the open forest covering the slope, we heard
the call of numerous francolins at daybreak, and a very singular
cry seemed to announce the presence of PHilopachys ventralis.
The Colobus guereza, which are very common from here to the
south and towards Abyssinia, were combing their white
coats upon the tall trees. On reaching the village of Biayo,
Roch@ama's residence, we found that he had thoughtfully had
good huts erected for us; but the old gentleman was very

indignant when he heard that I intended to cross Khor Asua
S

274 LABORE TO FATIKO.

the same day. When, after a long debate, in which even his
wives took part, and after an appeal to me to stay for old
acquaintance' sake, I at last yielded to his importunity, his
men were immediately ordered to bring wood and water, a goat
for myself, and several pots of mrisa for my men. A present
of cloths, glass beads, copper, and a bottle of wine for him-
self, requited his kindness and increased his good-humour.
Rochima had aged, but was still the faithful, amiable man I
had previously found him to be. - He has no power at all over
his people, who make fun of the long-winded orations he is
so fond of making on every possible occasion. His son is
very young, and cannot support his authority, but this is cer-
tainly done by his first, old, and ugly wife, who is only distin-
guished from her inferiors by a rather longer tail; she was
very obliging.

The village is beautifully situated. A fine khor, fringed
with beautiful vegetation, flows along the bottom of a wide
clearing, which is covered with short succulent grass, and
resembles a meadow. It is adorned with handsome colossal
fig-trees, tamarinds, and dolébs. _ Close beside the village,
which nestles among crags, there is a rocky ridge, upon which
I found a plant quite new to me. I am inclined to call it a
reed palm ; it is named here Lakort@, and is said to be confined
to this mountain. I had never seen it before in any of my
long expeditions, and of course I collected specimens. - Bananas
are scarce; evidently the soft yellow loamy soil does not suit
them.

A concourse of people had gradually assembled; their appear-
ance was very striking, on account of the curious way in which
their bodies were painted ; purple spots in front of the ears
and an ashy-grey ring round each eye seemed to be the
favourite design. I noticed several zebra-hides among those
worn as clothing by the men, and I elicited that the animal
was very common towards the east, and especially in the open
sandy Lango district. A very old and defective zebra-skin
was worn by one of the boys. Its very narrow dark stripes
on a pale yellow foundation seemed to indicate a particular
variety, but perhaps it was only the skin of a young animal.

Great men do not make great haste, so we could not set off

DENSE POPULATION, 275

next morning until friend Rochima had finished his sleep, and,
with great difficulty and trouble, had persuaded his men to
carry our few loads. In the course of the march, which took
us over very hilly ground covered with high grass, Jebel Ato,
better known under the name of the district, Faranka, came into
sight. I noticed some Eriodendrons growing in a wood, but they
seemed to be very scarce here." A very steep and long descent
brought us at length to Khor Asua, which is here widened by
broad stone ledges to about one hundred and thirty feet, and
was very difficult to ford, especially as the late rains had swollen
it considerably, so that the water reached to our armpits.
Rich vegetation crowned the rocky banks, the bright blossoms
of the Spathodeas shone among the dark foliage of the tree-
tops, and red Loranthus twined its garlands round the trunks.
Exactly opposite the point where we descended to the ford,
Khor Bara, which we had crossed once before near Bayira, and
found rather empty, poured its abundant water into the Asua.
The village of Lenga-Lenga, which we reached after a short
march through open forest, stood on a corner of a rocky height
without any fence. Besides bananas, tomatoes are found here,
which were no doubt introduced by the Danagla.

Village now succeeded village; but the large hamlet Uong,
on the gentle slope of a green hill, surrounded by fine clumps
of trees, and having a fine view of the mountains of Fatiko,
was particularly attractive. As soon as we had crossed Khor
Bara, we entered a palm forest, in which were situated nume-
rous seribas, fields, and hamlets, upon a comparatively level
highland. The village of Odidk, where Chief Roch@ma had
again thoughtfully had huts erected for us, lay within sight of
Bayira, which we had visited before. The adjacent large fields
were planted with sweet potatoes of the red-skinned variety
which are universally grown in the south, while in all the dis-
tricts to the west of the Nile the larger less sweet and white-
skinned kind is cultivated. The chief of this place kindly had
a feast prepared for my men in the evening; large quantities
of eleusine beer and sweet potatoes were supplied by the vil-
lagers, who, in return, claimed a share of the men's rations of
meat, and dancing and singing kept the village astir until the
early morning.

276 FATIKO TO FAUVERA.

d

The march from here to Fatiko was very pleasant; a short
descent over very muddy, pitchy black ground brought us to
Khor Bara, which we again crossed. Its bed was crowded with
rocks, and its water was about ten feet broad, and not quite
five feet deep. In the open well-tilled country were several
little hamlets, and close to the road lay Verbayo, within a stout
stockade of wood ; a good many Tephrosia were growing beside
its houses, and the indigenous Luffa »+cucumber and small cala-
bashes climbed up them. - The short grass looked at a distance
as if covered with hoar-frost, an illusion produced by the dew-
drops hanging on its reddish flowers. - Accustomed as we were
to a constant temperature of over 68° Fahr., we felt it quite
cold here at 63° Fahr. There was an almost entire absence of
trees, as yearly fires only permitted the growth of annuals.
The village of Otongole had been deserted, as the soil was
exhausted. - Its gite was marked by bananas, gourds, and tobacco
plants. - The last part of our march was through high grass,
with occasional rushes and Cyperacese, sparse woods, red sandy
soil, and stubble-fields, where grasshoppers were chirping.
The road rose gently all the way, and brought us, at the end
of three hours, to the station of Fatiko, where we were to stay
several days.

5. From Fatfro to FAUvERA AND Back.

SCARCITY OF FORESTS IN THE SsHUOLL COUNTRY-A PAPYRUS SWAMP-A
FIGHT BETWEEN HYENAS AND LIONS-A TROPICAL FOREST-RE-
CEPTION BY RIONGA - FAUVERA - PEDIGREE OF THE WAWITU
PRINCES-A NOCTURNAL FEAST-SORCERESSES-PRODUCTS OF THE
SOIL-MEAT-A STRUGGLE THROUGH GRASS.

WHEEN we despatched our men to reoccupy Fauvera and
keep the road to Ugidnda open, the officers in charge found
the old path so full of grass and briers that they preferred
to follow the beaten track running from here to Koki, and
from that place to try and discover the road used years ago by
the Danagla. So too we, leaving on our right the road we
had followed before, turned straight towards Jebel Ato, which

mnie

AN INQUISITIVE COMPANY. 277

could be used for a long time as a fixed mark in the con-
struction of our route.

The descent from the plateau on which Fatiko stands is
noticeable at once, although the country seems to rise to the
south in parallel chains of hills. Muddy channels, reminding
one of those in Uginda by their blackness, though not by their
depth, run between the rows of hills, and blocks of conglo-
merate are scattered on the ridges. Here and there is a little
brushwood, and, wherever a few trees form a clump, there are
whole nests of Amomum, the agreeable, sourish pulp of which
is much relished by everybody. The Arabic name used here for
Amomum is 4bu Hamira ; in Unyoro and Uginda, where the
plant is called Maftinguru, the fruit is eaten with banana
beer (mwénge).

A short distance before Kanakok we had to cross Khor
Bara again. Scattered zeribas full of huts, from which the
sound of merry singing reached our ears, form, together with
the village, the district of Loggolum, which is rich in corn and
sesame. - Throughout the Shuli country, though plenty of red
durrah and Penicillaria are grown, eleusine is the more im-
portant grain, because it alone produces a strong, bitter drink
(called Zongo by the Shuli), for here too drinking very often
takes the place of eating. I have seldom met with so numerous
and inquisitive a company as at this place-women, children,
and men, a motley crowd, with their glittering iron, brass, and
copper ornaments, many of the women carrying their infants on
their backs tied up in goat-skins and covered with gourd-shells.

The undulations of the country before us were so con-
siderable that even the mountains of Fatiko were hidden from
view. I succeeded, however, in taking, from the top of an
ant-hill, the bearings of Mounts Goma, Kaka, and Kalavinya,
which crossed my former bearings. A very long march
took us from Kanakok to Koki. The hills, which run parallel
to the road and shut it in to the right, <.s., the west, form
the watershed between the Unyama and the Asua, and there-
fore all the streams we crossed that day ran to the left, that
is, eastwards to the Asua, while along our former route all
the kAors flowed to the Unyama, the main stream of which
we crossed near Fatiko. - The humidity of the soil in this tract

 

278 FATIKG TO FAUVERA.

of country is very considerable, as shown by the pitchy black
patches of swamp. - The numerous rivulets, some of which, like
Khor Malach, contain very good water, are generally fringed
and almost filled with granite boulders. - The ground, which in
the lowest places is a rich, black, and very heavy humus, is
replaced by clay and quartz sand upon the ridges of the hills.
The mountains visible here were Jebel Ato, lying just in front
of us, and Jebel Mord, a group situated far off, in the Lingo
district, and not yet marked in any map.

On the whole the vegetation is poor. _ Woods are very scarce
in the Shuli country, but abundance of high grass is met with,
and this uniform covering often gives the country the appear-
ance of a large savannah, although it is really undulating and
hilly. _ It is difficult to gain much knowledge about the animal
world during our journeys in single file, even when one is at
the head of the procession, for the rustling and crackling of
the trampled grass through which a way must be made scares
all the animals away. We saw, however, many elephants.
The village of Koki, temporarily deserted by its inhabitants,
is beautifully situated, and still more beautifully cultivated.
Tobacco, sesame, eleusine, bananas, and even cotton, are grown.
Our night quarters lay away from the road, at a place called
Koro, which was exceedingly dirty. Besides the white-blossomed
Tephrosia, I saw here a yellow-blossomed variety. Our next
march was exceedingly monotonous, and led through slightly
undulating country, which looked like a sea of grass, interrupted
only by patches of bog and mud; there were no fields, no
villages, and no inhabitants. We reached Khor Mennabor,
the first and most northerly papyrus swamp along this route.
The incidents of African travel must be experienced to be
appreciated-to jump from one plant to another, to miss one's
footing and fall up to the breast into water and mud, to feel
the burning sensation caused by the fine hairs of Vossia
grass, which abounds in such marshy spots, and above all, to
witness the absurd appearance presented by a whole company
of people kicking about in swamp and mud, all these things
are very curious. We met a caravan of Wanyoro who had
been buying ivory from the Shilli in exchange for brass and
bark cloths, and who were probably going to exchange them

LIONS AND HYAENAsS. 279

gaggunda or in Kabréga's country for women, cattle, and

Soon after this we came to Khor Tochi (Khor Tushe of
Linant's map), and encamped on its western bank. We were
now in the basin of the large Khor Kabuli, which is formed by
the union of the Tochi and the Korova, and joins the Nile
opposite Fauvera, Khor Tochi was at this place about forty
feet broad; the water reached to our knees, and had a very
rapid current; we had crossed it before nearer its source,
where it is known as Khor-el-Hamir (& name given it by the
Danagla). Khor Shagga joins it above the spot we forded
this time. Lions and hysenas are very numerous, and here, as
all over our country, there is a firmly rooted belief that a deadly
enmity exists between the two animals, and that when hysenas
conspire together against lions they always get the best of it.

From a lofty mass of rock, which we reached about an hour
after leaving our camping-ground, we obtained a distant view
over almost level wooded country, in which the mountains of
Mord, Pidi, and Fatiri were visible. The aneroid reading gave
the elevation of the country as rather more than that of Fatiko.
During the day's march we crossed broad depressions lying
between hardly perceptible ridges of ground; in the rainy
season they are probably almost impassable. Khor Poroli is
another, and a very bad, specimen of the papyrus swamps
alluded to above; it is very deep; Ampullaria Wernest was
growing here in great abundance. We took more than half
an hour to cross the swamp, which was about seventy feet
broad. To the left, and marked by an immense Vitex-tree, lay
the road followed by Baker on his first journey to the south.
Not far from the swamp is Khor Korova, the largest stream of
this region, which, with Khor Tochi, forms the Kabuli. Coming
from the Silicat (? Shikat), it is here about a hundred feet broad,
and its yellow, icy-cold water is breast-high. At the ford it is
skirted with papyrus, but the passage is quite open, and the
sandy ground gives a good foothold. - For more than a quarter
of an hour the kkor was on our left, looking like a broad strip
of papyrus; then the road turned away from it up the slopes
of the hills, from which we saw undulating woody country to
the south. - Wild boars are very numerous in this district.

280 FATIKO TO FAUVERA.

After a long walk through high grass we reached, at Ras-el-
Fil, the road we had previously traversed; here were some
pools of water, being all that was left of Khor Lio, which is
said to flow into the larger Khor Tabaru during the rainy
season ; the latter, in its turn, pours itself into the Nile near
Anfina's island. - Francolins abound here. After a long search,
we at last discovered some dark stagnant water in a hollow,
and by it we encamped, after a march of seven hours and a half.
The place is called by the natives Modo, but by the soldiers
Ras-el-Maye, because pools of water are said to exist here all
the year. The formation of the ground we next passed over was
remarkable. Probably there was once an even slope down to
the river, but the upper layer has been washed away, and
where harder ground has resisted the action of water long
ridges remain standing. Their elevation above the level of the
country is insignificant, but, following their direction, a number
of broad furrows or depressions have been formed, generally
containing mud, water, and rank vegetation.

As the road runs, as a rule, along the top of the ridges, and
therefore parallel to these depressions, the general effect is the
same as when passing between rows of low hills. The country
sinks towards the river. There was no scenery to speak of;
high grass and woods alone were visible. After passing the
point where the road to Anfina's branches off, we again left the
«" old road," and, instead of turning towards Khor Kabuli, we
took a more southerly direction, passed a village hidden
in forest, and were informed by the cry of Haliaétus vocifer
that the Nile was near. - This bird and Lobivanellus senegalen-
sis can be heard at a considerable distance, and their ery is a
sure sign of the proximity of water. A quarter of an hour
later, the river, divided by large rush islands, lay on our right,
and, shortly after, we reached Khor Kabuli and the hill which
marks its confluence with the Nile. The former landing-place
at the khor was entirely overgrown with rushes and papyrus,
so that the water was quite hidden. The river has here also
a broad fringe of papyrus, through which boats are pushed with
difficulty, and the landing-place at Fauvera alone is free from
this obstruction. - Fauvera, which we soon reached, was in pro-
cess of renovation. It was among the stations abandoned last

CHIEF RIONGA AND FAUVERA. 281

year; and the men told off to reoccupy it had only been there
fourteen days. On the north bank of the river there are
several large villages, inhabited by and indeed the
whole district near the rapids is named, both by the Shuli and
the Wanyoro, Shifalt, but by the Waginda, Chopi.

Rionga, the chief of this district, was little altered, but was
perhaps rather more stupid than he used to be, owing to his
indulgence in mwénge and spirits. Fauvera is well situated,
and surrounded by fine large forests. It possesses a heavy,
grey, loamy soil, which produces good crops, especially of maize.
The river yields abundance of fish, of the species common in
these countries, but a longer stay might reveal many new
kinds. A kind of python is very frequently found on the river-
bank just below the station, which lies about twenty feet above
the level of the water. Specimens eight to ten feet long are
often killed, and are freely eaten, while the fat is considered a
specific for rheumatism and for earache. Hysenas and leopards
are nightly guests, and are very troublesome. Birds are seen
in large numbers.

The road from Fauvera to Koch is rendered very interesting
by its beautiful scenery. - Clumps of tall trees, generally tama-
rinds or sycamores, festooned with luxuriant climbing plants,
alternate with open acacia wood (Acacia gummi{ifera, A. campyla-
cantha, A. albida, A. fistula); but euphorbias, doléb and date
palms, and the slender Dracanas, with their leafy crowns, are
especially striking. Their presence imparts to the forest a
genuinely tropical appearance, which is increased by the
abundance and beauty of the underwood, and contrasts very strik-
ingly with the tediously uniform woods on the northern bank.

Koch (Koki), which is perhaps the best-situated station of
the province, will scarcely be tenable, for Rionga is by no
means to be depended on, and lately has been actually refrac-
tory. - The Nile here flows almost due south and north, and the
left bank is free from all obstruction, but the papyrus fringing
the opposite bank is all the more luxuriant, and Rionga's island,
Nyamezi, which lies just opposite the station, is completely
covered by it. Of course, mosquitos are not absent, either here
or in Fauvera.

The river (Nile) appears to have no general name among

282 FATIKO TO FAUVERA.

the natives, but is called after the different districts through
which it passes. At Koch I sometimes heard it called Kyambo,
although its usual name in Kinydro is Muigga. The name
Kioga is applied only to the lake-like enlargement of the river-
bed above Mrili, having no outlet to the north, which is marked
on Gordon's map Lake Coja, and has been repeatedly " dis-
covered." - The name Kikiuinguru is only used for the district,
and the mountains marked by that name on the maps have no
general name ; their highest elevation is called Msédya (man),
just as in Kabréga's country a high conical summit to the east-
south-east is called Msédja mkurru (the tall man),

Slightly ascending, our path wound from here to Gasaui
through fine acacia forest, containing numerous hamlets and
extensive plantations of sweet potatoes, pulse, and tobacco,
besides small groups of bananas. But from Gasaui a stretch
of grass and reed-beds commenced which defies all description.
The banana groves run wild, with their fallen stems, and an
undergrowth of briers and tendrils which grow with almost
incredible luxuriance in the loose coffee-brown soil, are, in spite
of their thorns and prickles, not so unpleasant as the thick,
dense beds of reeds, which, rebounding, strike and lash the
traveller from all sides. _ A few solitary huts were all that
remained of the once flourishing village of Karsita. Defang
Malo (Malo), where we remained for the night (making, in the
Wanyoro fashion, only short marches from beer jug to beer
jug), is a small village, inhabited by smiths, who work the
good iron ore found in the neighbourhood. The whole district
from Tokra is called Dedng, which name, therefore, is not con-
fined to a particular village, as I had before understood. My
men revelled here in maize cobs and sweet potatoes, of which
our host provided quantities in return for a small present.
We next met with broad hollows, fringed here and there with
woods and filled with almost impenetrable reed jungle. Large
groves of bananas, in which hundreds of trunks had been broken
down, probably by elephants, were rendered almost impassable
by plants growing in dense confusion between the fallen stems.
Any one who wishes to gain an idea of the gorgeousness of
African vegetation should visit one of these places, though he
will certainly congratulate himself if he gets out of the chaos

ANFINA'S CAPITAL 283

of prostrate trunks, deep holes and trenches, creeping plants,
thorns, and tendrils, with a whole skin and only his clothes in
rags,. - But yet these woods are beautiful. After passing the
little village Bedmot, and the Maya ravine, we left the huts
of Kijaja to our left, and, marching along a much better road,
we reached the boundary between Rionga's and Anfina's terri-
tories, at the Khor Nyaj, which was quite dry. We rested at
Royoro's village, Merachik, and through the liberality of that
chief, who is subject to Anfina, my men enjoyed some banana
beer, so that the march was continued in better spirits.
The hills above Khor Tari were clothed with a grand wood,
whose trees towered to the sky and were hung with festoons
of climbing plants. Many trees upon our way had been
stripped of their bark to make beehives, though the manage-
ment of bees, if such a term may be applied to the mere hang-
ing up of hives and the extraction of the honey, is much more
actively carried on in the Lingo district than here.

On our arrival at Anfina's (Panyatoli), his men, in festive
attire, and drawn up in rank under waving Egyptian banners,
received us with a volley of guns. Anfina himself, their com-
mander, was dressed in English flannel, and did me the honour
of conducting me into his enclosure, where a fine large hut,
built in the Waginda style, was assigned to me, while my men
camped outside the fence. - Presents were immediately brought
me of quantities of sweet potatoes, fowls, eggs, eleusine, flour
ripe and unripe bananas, six elephant's tusks, and a goat. A
cow and the indispensable banana beer were added for my men.
I was not a little puzzled as to how I should requite this
bounty, for among the great chiefs of the south one cannot get
off with glass beads and other toys of the kind ; at any rate my
present must have pleased Anfina, for a large gourd vessel full
of banana wine (sandi) was then sent me. The reception pre-
pared for me, the crowds of people, the well-armed attendants
of the chief, becomingly dressed in cloths, the people decently
wrapped in skins and bark cloths, all vividly reminded me of
Uganda and the reception I met with on two occasions from
King Mtésa. I must say again, that, setting aside peculiari-
ties common to all Negroes, Anfina and Mtésa's Katikiro

284 FATIKO TO FAUVERA.

(Pokino) must be placed among the few Negro gentlemen of
my acquamtance.

As is well known, Aunfina is one of those rulers in the south
who trace their descent to the Wawitu, and are rather proud
of it, and of their lighter-coloured skin. - Suwarora, Mtésa,
Rumanika, Kabréga, Rionga, Anfina, Gabla in Btenga, and
Rochima are the principal of these chiefs, and they affirm that
they are related to one another. Without entering into this
question, I will only remark that my very able and unfortunate
predecessor, Linant de Bellefonds, tried to sketch a sort of
genealogical tree, which, however, requires some alterations.
At Gordon Pasha's request I afterwards undertook to correct
it, and I give it here as follows :-

Isanza (son of Bgogéd).

Kyevambe (named also NiantGakara).

 

 

Saiglgma. Kilchope. Mugeni.
Rionga. Fovuka. Kamrdsi
a Anfina, |
Kabréga.

Immediately after my arrival at Anfina's, caravans of porters
were sent by his sub-chiefs with presents for the support of his
guests (Wawitu custom). - Anfina is the only Negro prince I
have known, not excepting Mtésa, to whom clothing and what-
ever other appliances have found their way here have really
become indispensable ; he is, also, the only chief who uses plates
and dishes in eating, and glasses for drinking. - Ankarebs,
chairs, and even metal spoons are found here, and the bananas
that were brought me were handed on a china dish. Evening
had scarcely set in when dancing commenced ; at four different
places noggaras (drums) were beaten, and chorus singing, with
vigorous clapping, accompanied the recitative of the singer,
who improvised on all possible themes. One of Rionga's men
mimicked me in a very amusing fashion, inquiring the names
of mountains, XAors, plants, &e., and taking notes, not forget-
ting also observations with the compass. " What is the name
of the village in front of us ?" asked the soloist, and gave him-
self the answer, " Kijaja," whereupon the chorus took up the
word, and repeated ten times " Kijaja." Linant's adventures

WICHWEZI WITCHES. 285

with Kabréga's men at Khor Kafu were also illustrated in the
dances. The orgy lasted till three o'clock in the morning, and
every one was stirring again at five o'clock.

The most striking figures among the crowds of people loiter-
ing about here were the Wichwézi sorceresses, a large number
of whom are found at the court of every Wawitu prince.
Clothed in bark cloths, yellowish brown or dyed black-one
wore even the handsome mfone, a fine bark cloth with black
patterns-so that the whole body is covered, they also not
infrequently wear skins of goats or sheep, and occasionally
cheetah or otter (Lutra sp., Nyonge) skins, and adorn or dis-
figure their heads with objects of every conceivable description.
These ladies are certainly not beautiful, and they would hardly
be eligible for vestal virgins, but they are feared, and therefore
venture to take many liberties. As is always the case where
professional interests are concerned, they vie with one another
in eccentricities. - One at Rionga's court grunted every minute ;
. at Anfina's, one of them spoke in the highest falsetto, while
another sat down beside one of the company, and wanted her
shoulders rubbed and her head bent. But there was a man
who surpassed them all; he was apparently quite deaf, and
chattered about all sorts of stupid things, giving no answers
to questions, but leaving off as soon as any one whistled.

Panyatoli (Anfina's village) lies in a well-wooded country,
but the forest trees have been removed to make room for fig-
trees used in the manufacture of cloths. The cloths I saw,
however, were all coarse, and by no means equal to the fine
pieces of Uganda and Karigwa, where they are imported from
Ruhi@nda. As regards cultivated plants, I only saw tobacco and
bananas, for the eleusine was gathered in, and the time for
sowing red durrah here had hardly come (November). Sesame,
which ripens all the year through, is found here and there.
Tobacco (Nicotiana virginiana) might yield a good return under
proper treatment, but by careless drying, the leaves shrink
up so much, that the tobacco has an uninviting appearance.
The bananas are fairly good, and belong to the golden-skinned
variety called Nyamunya. Here, as in all parts of Unyoro,
the men only eat the bananas boiled before they are ripe, while
the women and children also eat them uncooked when ripe.

296 FATIKO TO FAUVERA.

Bananas are, of course, a very important means of subsist-
ence, but the principal article of food in north Unyoro is the
red-skinned sweet potato, which yields abundant crops at all
seasons of the year. _ Besides the grains and fruits just enume-
rated, the usual vegetables are grown, such as gourds (Helmic
bulbifera), two kinds of yams, and Colocasia. - There are also a
number of wild herbs, which are eaten as vegetables, and re-
markably good and prolific varieties of Phaseolus, so that vege-
table food is very plentiful.

The supply of meat is not so satisfactory. _ As a rule cattle are
rare, and can hardly be taken into account except for the chiefs.
Goats and sheep (the latter very large, and having large fat tails)
are plentiful; goat's flesh, however, is here always better and
fatter than mutton. - Game can hardly be obtained during a large
part of the year, owing to the high grass, but is eagerly hunted
after the grass is burned down. _ Elephants are very numerous.
As to domestic animals, there are large numbers of sporting dogs,
of a good build, and generally of a brownish-yellow colour ; tamed
wild cats are common, but the real house-cat, introduced from
the north, is rare. - Fowls are exceptionally numerous, but ex-
tremely small. - Fishing is actively pursued in the river; the
dried, sometimes huge, fish are seen hanging up in every hut,
even inland at a great distance from the river.

We should have celebrated Id-el-Kebir, the great or sacri-
ficial festival, here, but the road to Fatiko was long and rough,
and, as I had to inspect the rapids near here, where a small
station was to be established to secure the passage, we were
obliged to leave Anfina's sooner than he, and perhaps we
ourselves, wished. - Immediately after leaving Panyatoli; the
descent to the river began. - Well-tilled land, with numerous
zeribas scattered over it, by which the neatly kept road passes,
gradually gave place to woods containing beautiful tall trunks,
and here and there to grass land, or, where depressions occurred,
to reed thickets, as at the little Khor Nyambue. - After a short
journey of not quite four hours, we reached the river, where the
bank, about eighty feet high, sloped steeply, and was composed
of ferruginous red clay. - The river, flowing in a loop from east-
north-east to west-south-west, has at this place (Mutud, in the
district Fodi) no rapids, and is only about five hundred feet

CROSSING THE NILE. 287

broad, which, of course, makes the crossing easier; but there is
no village here, and only two boats are available for the passage.
On the northern bank there are isolated crags and tall forests,
inhabited by Lingo people, and mever before visited. There
seem to be no other names for the districts along the northern
bank except those of villages.

Leaving the men to ship our few cattle and goats, wo took
our baggage and turned a little farther to the west, where there
were said to be five boats. On our way we passed the spot
beside the river where Linant's tent stood when he visited
Anfina. The island Mukidna, on which Anfina then dwelt,
lies just opposite this place, but is now uninhabited, and a good
deal of it has been washed away. Keeping close to the river,
which is here very pretty, we reached the ferry of Aueri, and
were soon busy sending off the baggage and porters. - Of course,
only two boats were found here, and the Matongali who had
been ordered to help us preferred drinking mwénge in his
village, and left us to work alone. The river is not broad at
this place; to our right a ledge of rock projected across it,
over which the water foamed, and to our left, about five minutes
off, were some rapids-none of them, however, at all dangerous.
While the men were engaged in shipping the cattle, a Negro
killed a fine viper, but it was, unfortunately, spoiled for pre-
serving. We crossed in seven minutes, for our oarsmen were
really good and the boat was light; we went almost straight
across, though the current was very strong.

The following aneroid readings for the relative heights are
of interest:-Night-quarters at Mutud (eighty feet above the
river) 26.38 in.; Aueri (seven feet above the river), 26.56
in.; devel of river (in the boat), 26.793 in. - The steep
northern bank is richly wooded, and Lingo zertbas are very
numerous. We found our men waiting in the little village
Mukomére, which is inhabited by Shifali, and then we con-
tinued our journey in a north-easterly direction, intending to
reach the Fatiko road at Rasg-el-Fil. The country was very
well peopled, to judge from the extensive fields, but the few
huts that we saw had been deserted by their occupants; all
the trees were hung with cylindrical hives of bark.

Towards noon we reached a rather extensive group of zertbas,

288 FATIKO TO FAUYVERA.

one of which was kindly given up to us at once. A difficult
stretch of country without water was said to lie before us. The
houses of this village of Fachora were a good deal like Wanyoro
houses, divided into compartments by cane partitions, and
padded with hay. - But the granaries were totally different,
being oven-shaped. The house utensils were of the usual
description, and hunting weapons were conspicuous. The day
before we arrived, a buffalo had been killed and eaten. Tobacco,
Helmia (of which only the bulbs are eaten), Lubia, three kinds
of gourd, sesame, maize, and Vigna were cultivated. - Towards
evening a large assemblage of Lingo collected ; they had never
seen a white man, and my leather leggings, reaching to the
knee, which they called " elephant's legs," particularly interested
them. ;

The next was indeed a march! Grass of a height and
closeness rare even in Unyoro, and dripping with dew, had
literally to be broken through, for, as soon as we had left the
village, there was no road of any kind. As I had taken the
lead, I had, of course, the first and full enjoyment of the grass,
thorns, and water, and, at a temperature of 63° Fahr., to have to
crawl, as wet as a drowned rat, through bushes, is unpleasant
even in Central Africa. It was scarcely possible to take com-
pass bearings, everything was so wet, and the grass thrust itself
so impertinently even into our ears and eyes. - The first clear-
ing was reached after about two hours and three-quarters'
march, and was hailed with joy, for we could dry ourselves
there in the sun. The delay-our rate of marching could not
have been more than two miles an hour-was made up for by
a quick march on the better ground we had now reached,
where the men ran to warm themselves, for a cool wind was
blowing. At Modo, our old night quarters, which we reached
shortly after midday, the water, always scanty enough, had
been drunk up by elephants and buffaloes, and so we had to |
go on with thirst unquenched for two hours and a quarter -
longer to Ras-el-Fil. There we found water in a row of
holes, which tasted good after a march of eight hours. From
this place we returned to Fatiko by the road described above. __

 

 

THE BELINIAN CHAIN. 289

6. From to OBBo.
(Letter to Consul Hansal in Khartim, dated Obbo, Hay 23, 18981.)

THE BELINIAN MOUNTAINS-ANIMAL LIFE-MUSCOYY GL S
ITS HILLSIDE VILLAGES—LIRIA—OKKELA, A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE-
LATOKA AND ITS PEOPLE-THE UNEXPLORED REGION TO THE EAST-
PALM FORESTS-AGARU AS A HEALTH RESORT-FADIBEK AND ITS TRADE
--AN EXCURSION TO FAJULLI-LAngo VISITORS-OBBO-RETURN To
THE NILE.

             

Ix order to inquire into some complaints which had reached me,
and at the same time to inspect our new stations to the east
of the Bahr-el-Jebel, I went through Gondokéro to Térangole,
in Latika, thence through Awaru to Fadibék and Fajulli,
returning to this place by F adlbck, and I intend to go through
Kérefi to Labore, and then to the south-west.

The route from Gondokoro to the adjacent Belinian range,
and thence to the Lokoya mountains, in the Liria district, was,
on the whole, better dealt with in the older investigations of
Morlang and Peney than on Baker's meagre map. You re-
member that a broad sandy plain, with open acacia woods
and abundant doléb bushes, stretches out from GondokGro
towards the Belinian chain. To the north this plain slopes
down to the swamps of Bor and Ber, while to the south its
margin rises up to the mountains of the Bari and Shuli coun-
tries. The region is very rich in game. Numerous herds of
elephants wander over the wide plain, for they are very fond of
the fruit of the Balanites, which are exceedingly common here.
Unfortunately, lions are a sore plague to man and beast. The
ascent begins shortly before Belinian, so that Befo's village,
Urbare, though apparently in the same wide plain, is much
higher than Gondokoro. The Belinian chain itself, and the
country round it, are well cultivated and thickly peopled ;
numerous herds of cattle and goats-sheep are very rare in the
Bari district-were grazing on the short green grass, accom-
panied by hundreds of buff-backed herons. Water is not
wanting, for the Kirinion, here called Kadwé, a very important

khor, provides water all the year, and also plenty of fish. Its
#

2g0 GONDOKORO TO OBBO.

banks were literally covered with storks (Clcomia episcopus),
which seem to make this their meeting-place; the tufted
Scopus wmbrett« also is extraordinarily common. In the sandy
bed of the khor transparent mica scales glittered. I afterwards
discovered that they had been washed down from the adjacent
mountains, especially Jebel Torkola, which we passed, and
where we met with that variety of mica which is known as
muscovy glass.

Jebel Torkola belongs to the Lokoya mountains, which,
stretching from north-north-west to south-south-east, join the
Shuli mountains in the south. Here, they stood like a wall before
us ; they have always been considered difficult to cross, because
of the hostility of their dense population. Even now the in-
habitants of this particular part of the Bari district are stubborn,
but I have been successful in keeping the road open and pre-
serving a good understanding with the different chiefs. From
Jebel Torkola to the defile of Tollogo one mountain group
succeeds another, hilly country intervening, covered with dense
brushwood, and in parts with very dense bamboo jungle.
Petunias of all shades, from pure white to dark lilac, and
beautiful odoriferous Crinum delight the eye here. The defile
of Tollogo, formed by the mountain groups of Tollogo and
Kajumbo, is a narrow valley, with a little brook running
through it, and is very carefully cultivated. The population
must be very dense; we found the people actively engaged in
field work, in which the women also assisted. The villages lie,
as everywhere in this region, high up on the mountains, each
house, enclosed in a thick fence, upon a small artificially
formed terrace; the surrounding rocks, which closely resemble
the older huts in colour, serve as admirable hiding-places in
case of attack, and the numerous stones make still better
weapons. - Quite peculiar to this district is the practice of
fencing-in the fields with the green growing stems of the Bos-
wellia papyracea, the sweet-smelling resin of which is found
in large drops between the thin and ragged scales of the
epidermis.

A sharp turn round Jebel Tollogo leads to the capital of
the Lokoya country, Rinyak, marked on the older maps
Rignia. The people here are certainly Bari, but Latika is

A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 291

much spoken. The district of Livia, to which the Lokoya
mountains belong, is the most densely populated Bari district
I have seen. It is very mountainous throughout, and con-
tains very lofty elevations, such as Jebel Oppone, the outlying
peak of Jebel Tollogo, which in good weather is visible even in
the northern Shili district. - Red durrah, sesame, a very small
kind of Lubia, tobacco, and two varieties of gourd are culti-
vated. Khor Loddo, about four hours' journey from Chief
Rugang's village, Rinyak, forms the boundary between Bari and
Latiika. - Before reaching it, however, there is a swamp full of
Cyperaces, which the elephants and buffaloes of the surround-
ing country seem to have chosen for a dwelling, and which
takes about an hour to cross. - Masses of iron ore lis ex-
posed in the bed of Khor Loddo, totally differing in formation
and appearance from the bog ore so common in this country.
The descent, which began at Rinyak, became more and
more considerable. The country in front of us once more
assumed the form of a large plain, extending at the same level
almost to Loronio, and forming, as it were, a second terrace
after leaving Gondokoro. Till within a short distance of
the station of Okkela (Baker's Wakkela), the yellowish-white
sandy soil is covered with open woods of acacias, Zizyphus,
Balanites, and other thorn-bushes usually found on such flats.
Near to Okkela the woods become more and more frequent, so
that the road runs through fine park-like tracts; the dark
foliage of Kigelias, spreading boughs of sycamores, and pliant
branches of Grewias, together with handsome butter-trees, De-
tarias yielding edible fruits, euphorbias, and dolébs, mingle
with other forms of trees, while groups of aloes and nests of
Sanseviera are found among them. Khor Ginetti, or Kanieti,
the name adopted by Baker from the Danagla, rises in the nor-
thern Shuli mountains. In the Ber district, which lies to the
north, it is named Chol, and there unites with Khor Koz, which
flows down from Térangole, and loses itself in the swamps of
that country. It contains water all through the year, which
indicates the existence of springs in the mountains ; it lies in
a deep bed, the rather high loamy banks of which give its
water a yellowish tint, and it often swells so considerably after
a few hours' rain that it cannot be forded for many hours.

ae

292 GONDOKORO TO OBBO.

Olkela has long been noted for its astonishing abundance of
game, and for the collector it is a real paradise. - The number
and variety of monkeys is particularly striking, and the lions
are so numerous that you meet with them in twos or threes on
every excursion into the wood, but they have never been known
to attack men, while leopards are, on the contrary, much dreaded.

Five hours' journey towards the east-south-east takes the
traveller through park land and growing crops to Loronio, Chief
Latomé's village, which, picturesquely situated on a high hill,
probably contains 1500 to 2000 inhabitants in its bamboo-
fenced houses. The old chief, famous far and wide as a
rainmaker, is also ruler of thirteen other villages, which lie
scattered over the country, and pay him taxes with great
punctuality. A splendid view is obtained from the summit of
the LGronio hill, of the Loligono peak, to the north-north-west,
in the Ber district, of the whole group of the Lokoya moun-
tains, and of the long western, southern, and south-eastern chains
of the Latuka mountains, right down to Jebel Seréten, Jebel
Dongotolo, and the distant Logere summits. - The imposing
Jebel Ekara-visible even from Rinyak-stands out among the
other mountains, its truncated pyramid being surmounted by two
pinnacles. It is called in Latuika, Chufal, and in Obbo, where
it lies, Jebel Okirri, and may safely be identified with Jebel
Asul (the "Honey Hill ") of Baker's map, said to attain an
altitude of 4000 or $000 fest. The Lafit and Ittatol
summits in the Lafit range, with the lofty Liodin, as well as
Kilio in the south-western range, are very considerable eleva-
tions. - Altogether Latiuika presents a very mountainous aspect
here, its main valley running from north-west to south-east.
The swampy land round Loronio harbours numbers of herons
and storks, but far more remarkable are the many. Balearic
cranes, which walk solemnly about the fields in twos and threes.

Khor Koz lies close to the station ; it is now a broad and
deep stream, but in winter it is quite empty, and therefore can
hardly be considered anything more than a rain-water channel.
On the way to Térangole, the chief station in the Latuika dis-
trict, this Ahor runs along near the road to the right hand,
and often approaches quite close to it. The valley is here still
very broad, but the Lafit chain encroaches on it to the left.

 

Sma cie

TARANGOLE AND CHIEF MAYE, 293

Here and there are high hills similar to the Loronio, and
generally crowned with large villages. The little village
Loriajo lies, however, in the plain, and immediately beyond it
is a boggy thicket, where the sticky loamy soil, into which we
sank above the knee, is exceedingly unpleasant. A number
of small rivulets cross the road here, all of them rain-torrents
coming down from the Lafit range. Thick acacia bush grows
rank in the sandy soil, which is sometimes yellow, sometimes
white, and extends up to the fields round Térangole, formerly
the headquarters of the Danagla, and now a smart little military
station close to Khor Koz.

During the short time of its existence, the station has en-
tered into communication with near and more distant districts,
and people are often to be found here from the districts of Renga
or Irenga, lying farther to the east, and from the Kuron
mountains and Loba. - The land is splendidly cultivated, has an
excellent soil, and, besides possessing numerous herds of cattle
and flocks of superior fat sheep, it supports a numerous and
very well-disposed community, whose old chief, Maye, now only
carries on the business of rainmaking, while the administra-
tion is in the hands of his son, Lajur. Viewed from the
station, the valley to the south-east becomes narrower and
narrower, and appears to be shut in, while almost east-south-
east the jagged mountains of the Irenga chain come into sight
for the first time; they seem to be higher than the nearer
mountains, and they form a long chain with very curiously
shaped horns and teeth. The distance from here to Irenga is
estimated at three to four good days' march-but what was
meant by one of these day's marches we were presently to
learn. The unexplored countries of Akkara and Musingok,
with the rivers of Tu and Ogeloquer, border on Irenga.

The people of Latika are entirely different in form of face
and structure of head, and stature, from the tribes dwelling
around them, and must, doubtless, have forced their way here
from the east. Their language and customs are also quite
peculiar to themselves. I collected examples of the former ;*

* The vocabulary collected by Emin Pasha proves conclusively that the Latika
are Wakuavi (Masai), and they are coloured as such on Mr. Ravenstein's map
of Eastern Equatorial Africa, published in 1883.

294 GONDOKORO TO OBBO.

the latter have been on the whole faithfully described by Baker. _
Their weapons, their passion for the chase, and the continual
feuds which decimate the country have also been referred to
by him.

Tarangole does not by any means lie due east of Okkela
and Loronio, but considerably more to the south than either
of them. From here to Agaru we traversed country yet un-
trodden by any traveller. The entire distance is twenty-two
hours forty-one minutes good march, and, as we could only
march four hours and a half the first day, the journey was
accomplished in four days, each day's march including a rest
for the porters, lasting from 5.30 a.M to 1.30 Par- On the
first of these marches we crossed Khor Koz twice, and reached
the village of Elianga, where, in the large durrah-fields close
to the road, we saw a number of clay vessels filled with human
bones. - At the second ford, called Churchur, friable white-
veined granite lies at the edge of the kAor, a large dense wood
of doléb and dum palms covers the bank, and the melon-like
smell of the orange-coloured doléb fruit is perceptible at some
distance. - Throughout Latuka the doléb palms form in places
regular woods, and in the fruit season they provide the natives
with food in various forms for about two or three months. I
was surprised to find the dum palm (Hyph@&ne thebaica) so
far south as this, for on the Bahr-el-Jebel it is not found to
the- south | of lat. 3"-30' N., and- from -there to} the southertt
frontier of Uganda it is never seen.

At the village of Loggurén, which is situated like a fort
upon a hill, the road branched off to Logere, Kuron, and
Irenga ; unfortunately, I was not able to follow it. . 'The
country near Jebel Ghattal has a heavy red clay soil, and
was covered with industrious workers clearing away stones
from among the young crops. As the land slopes very much,
and, after the slightest rain, rushing brooks roar down over
the rocks from the mountains, all the fields are surrounded
with hedges of straw and hay, which afford some protection.
The scenery is very fine, cultivated land alternating with park
land and crags. The valley before us narrowed more and
more, the mountain groups of Ghattal, Dongotolo, and Bay-
ango on our left, and the long, lofty Lomu range on our

A MOUNTAIN REGION. 295

right, approaching nearer and nearer to one another. When
crossing the hills, a number of mountains and mountain groups
were visible, lying partly in the unknown countries to the east
of Latitka, partly in the north-east of the Shili district. Thus,
from the heights of Jebel Khofir, which we climbed over to
reach the other side of the valley, the lofty Toé, in the Har-
rogo district, came into sight, and among the distant Irenga
mountains we saw the dome-shaped Baya and the Zummo Peak,
which last is certainly higher than all the rest. Jebel Seréten,
which, seen from Térangole, seemed to shut in the defile, now
lay beside us, and we spent the night at Khor Koz, which we
had not seen for some time, as it had flowed at some distance
from our road. As soon as we had crossed the kAor the road
took a westerly direction, 'The soil here is a hard red clay,
containing masses of quartz fragments, often of a beautiful
milky white colour, which are used by the Shuli in the manu-
facture of the little cones which are worn by men and women
in the under-lip. Jebel Seréten forms the boundary of Latutka
on the Shuli side.

A number of small rivulets and some large torrent-beds
intersect the country. The vegetation during the first part
of the route consisted of dense acacia bush, and farther on of
open bush, such as is found on steppes. A quantity of Calo-
tropis and three varieties of euphorbia were thriving well on
sandy spots. Khor Okorra, a true mountain stream, rushes
down from the adjacent Halanga chain, and in a deep gorge,
which keeps its water icy cold, sweeps round the foot of the
high hill of Kela, which is covered with Shiuli villages, and
where the little station of Agaru is situated. The high posi-
tion of this station (3700 feet), its cold water, and moderate
temperature, render it the healthiest and most pleasant place
of abode in this country; its surrounding mountains and hills
also make it very picturesque.

From Agaru to Fadibék was a hard day's march of eleven
hours fifty-five minutes. We passed by the Langia range,
then crossed Khor Arenga, with its beautiful " gallery "
wood, and reached Jebel Lamo, or, as it is usually called,
Falogga. - We were now in country traversed last year, when f
marked on my map the mountains, such as Lamo, Lalak, and

296 GONDOKORO TO OBBO.

Aggu. - Fadibék has grown into a large and beautiful station,
and is the centre of numerous smaller establishments in the
Shuli district, viz., Fallibek, Fargjok, Fajulli, Lira, &c. The
excursion to Fajulli, the frontier post towards the Lingo
country, proposed last year, and now rendered necessary, was
actually made, and opened up a new and extensive moun-
tain country, which may be looked upon as the southern slope
of Shoa, Kaffa, &e. - Ascending gradually through the district
Labongo, we reached Khor Bagger, which we had crossed last
year on the way from Fadibék to Fatiko, and which may be
considered the chief tributary of Khor Asua, for its course is
longer than that of Khor Atappi. A savannah, interrupted
occasionally by thickets of brushwood, stretthes from here for
a considerable distance as far as the steppes of Koliang, Ter-
mayok, Turkan, and the prairies of the country in the
south-east. Tall forests only exist round the mountains, where
alone there is always plenty of moisture.

The traveller need not be surprised if he often traverses
long distances of two to three days' march in the Shuli country
without meeting with any villages, as these savannahs are re-
served for the chase. _ At Jebel Leruama settlements and fields
begin again. 'The corn was nearly ripe when we passed. On
the hill of Gikkor there were patches of Musa ensete. From its
heights I was able to take observations, connecting my work in
this part with that in Fatiko. The station of Fajulli is very
unfavourably situated in the midst of a wide hilly savannah.
It has no surroundings worth speaking of and no outlook, but
it forms a centre for the people in the south and east, who come
to barter their ivory for glass beads, copper, brass, &c. This
accounts for my finding men here from Bognia and Lirem, from
whom I obtained information about their countries, which lie
at a distance of eight to ten days' journey from here. They wore
the usual Lingo head-dresses, and spoke Lingo, which is quite
different from Shuli. Unfortunately, we had to return to Fadi-
bek by the way we had come, for the road through Fachér,
Ogilli, Akkara, and Oppei was longer, and would have taken at
least ten days more, which I could not spare, owing to engage-
ments elsewhere. I was therefore unable to complete and
correct my notes of this journey.

SHULI AND MADI BORDER. 2097

We turned our steps from Fadibék through Midi to Farajok,
on Khor Limur, and after settling some boundary disputes
among the Shuli tribes, we crossed Khor Atappi much farther
up than last year, and arrived at Obbo, where the roads be-
tween Labore, Latitka, and Fadibék meet. A compass bearing
of Jebel Okirri, our old acquaintance of Liria and Latuka,
completed my triangulation.

We are to go next to Liaboré.

LaBort, May 26, 1881.

We arrived here this morning. About nine hours march
through hilly country overgrown with high grass brought us to
Ogilli, a village in the Fanyiquara district, where the porters
were changed, in order to proceed as quickly as possible. The
district of Fandiker, with its capital, Fagger, joins on to the
above district, and their extensive corn-fields are also contigu-
ous. As there were no large kAors to cross, and the grass was
not high enough to cause any difficulties, the march was quite
pleasant. It has not rained here for a long time, and while
the people, particularly in Fajulli, and we ourselves, have been
complaining of excessive humidity and too much rain, it is
the exact opposite here. At Derreto, a little village on the
way, all our porters ran off, and only the kindness of Jata, the
chief of the place, enabled us to reach the village of Kérefi on
the same day; there we found our last year's huts. When
we entered the Fanyiquara district we had left the Shuli
behind us. We are now in the Madi country, which is a
recent encroachment on the Shuli country from the west. The
'ground from Obbo to Kérefi, although crossed by many and
sometimes rather high ranges of hills, gradually falls to
the river; Kérefi itself lies considerably higher than Laboré,
but this difference of altitude within so short a distance
(three hours' march) is amply accounted for by the steep
face which the Kuitu hills present towards the Nile opposite
Laboré.

My very limited time prevents me at present from making
a map of my routes and working out my positions. Therefore,
pray excuse the incompleteness of this narrative, which is
only intended to give you some idea of my wanderings. That

298 GONDOKORO TO OBBO.

these journeys, which were undertaken for the control of the
Government service, the inspection of the officials and of the
work accomplished, and the protection and improvement of
the Negro population, have also contributed to the pecuniary
advantage of the Government is, I think, proved by the fact
that I have delivered into the magazine here, about ten
hundredweights of ivory and five or six pounds of ostrich
feathers, which were presented to me by Negro chiefs in
return for the presents I gave them.

i
l
A
i

V.

TRAVELS TO THE WEST OF THE BAHREL-JEBEL.

1. From L&aDG, on THE Wuire NLE, THROUGH NYAMBARA
To KEpIsa, IN THE Krorrg CoUNTRY.

OFF ON A HOLIDAY !-A SWAMPY TRACT-A DEFEAT OF THE DANAGLA-
KHOR KODA AND ITS FLOODS-A NYAMBARA DANCE-A NYAMBARA
VILLAGE-ARRIVAL IN KEDERC.

WITH almost the same feelings that fill the heart of a school-
boy when the first day of his holiday has begun, I left Lado,
with all its heat, behind me on the 15th of September 1881,
bound this time for the north, to inspect the old mudirié
(Government department) of Rol. Immediately behind Ladd
there extends a trough-shaped depression edged with thickets
(running, on the whole, from south to north), which is swampy
in parts, owing to the large amount of rain that has fallen this
year, and in other parts sandy and covered with impenetrable
bushes of thorns. It harbours numerous lions, so that the
traveller has to be very wary. A delicious scent is given off
by millions of yellow and pink acacia blossoms, which, together
with Balanites, Zizyphus, Randia, and similar thorns, flourish in
such sandy flats, forming at the same time a favourite resort
of the Fringillidse, which swarm in this region. - On clearings
in the midst of this chaos of thorns are situated the little
hamlets of the Bari chiefs, Yalo and Mari, which together
form the district of Nyori. They were enclosed in hedges of
blossoming euphorbia, and surrounded by extensive yellow sandy
stretches and numerous fields of durrah, the second crop this
year. - The eleusine was still small, and the Lubia had hardly
sprouted. Large swarms of geese enliven these fields, and

300 EADO TO KEDIBA.

Hoplopterus and Sarciophorus tectus are also frequent guests..
One of the most curious members of our flora, Ademium spe-.
ctosum, Fenzl, fittingly compared by Marno to a baobab left
sticking in the earth, is very often found here; the Bari call
the plant Zoréni. We had to wade knee-deep in water and mud
through the broad swamp (which we had crossed the previous
year at a point much farther south) in order to reach the
Makraké road, which leads, over a slightly rising and very
sandy region in the district of Kuji, to numerous euphorbia
enclosures, where, at the time of Dr. Junker's travels here, a
great many hamlets and herds were to be seen. To-day the
woodpeckers hammer upon the fences, and wild grass and
Solanaces cover the ruins of the huts, with more sympathy
than men, who at this very place hunted down the cattle and
their fellow-creatures.

Nersho's small village of Koka, where we passed our first
night, lies in the midst of Lubia fields, to which the clumps of
trees on the sandy flats form a pleasing contrast. The total
absence of palms is remarkable 'The Hibiscus sabdariffa,
which is grown so extensively in the Shiuili country, is culti-
vated here; its purple leaves, and a white or purple fleshy
calix and large pale yellow flowers, give it a very showy
appearance. In the Shuli country the calix is relished
on account of its acidity, but the Bari only use the seeds, a
mucilaginous decoction of which is poured over their meal-
porridge. We had had to leave the Makraké road to get to
Koka, and now we had to find it again by the help of the
glorious moonlight. - Our picturesque procession made its way
straight over the sand and through the thorns: a motley com-
pany-people from Nyambara and Amadi; Chief Doli, with
his numerous nude and lusty beauties; lanky, narrow-chested
Agar; soldiers, and Danagla. Majestic trees, chiefly syca-
mores and tamarinds, and sometimes Parkias, formed thick
woods here, and then we came to tall grass, bent low by the
wind and its own weight, and often blocking the road. Nume-
rous game-tracks and elephant-runs cross these plains.

As soon as we reached the Makrakd road, a view opened up
of Jebel Malokwin and the chains of Reko and Mire; behind,
Jebel Kumifi, and to the left, Jebel Veya (Vio), and several more

 

A DEFEAT OF THE DANAGLA. 301

2

distant mountain groups of the southern Fajelu district, made
their appearance. - Our route led over a plateau of ferruginous
clay, concealed beneath a layer of sand formed by disintegra-
tion ; it was studded with sparse bushes, and intersected by many
small water-runnels, which in the Akarif help to swell Khor
Nyamini. At this time the contained a good deal of
water. - Here our route left the Makraks& road for good, and
after passing between several picturesque groups of rocks and
through some swampy depressions, it led us on to a wide
savannah. A tall tree marks the place where eighty Danagla
lost their lives, and their comrades had to beat a disgraceful
retreat while attacking Chief Langajo's Nyambara zertbas, which
formerly were situated here. Rince that time, Khor Nyamini
has been called in Arabic " Khor Temanin " (the " brook of the
eighty "). My guide, Tombe, Langajo's son, and now chief of
this district, was present during the attack, and he now carried
a gun which had been captured on the occasion. Khor Berr
flows through high grass, which shuts out all view. The Bari
call it Kongolo-Kob, but by the Arabs it is called Khor-et-
Tin, because its water is of a dirty white, owing to the loamy
soil of its banks. It comes from northern Fajelu, and flows into
Khor Nyamini.

_ After midnight there was a violent thunderstorm, which
«produced the inevitable confusion that always follows such
events; in the early morning all were asleep, so that we did
not start till late. The country before us sloped, and was on
that account mostly swampy, but marching is fairly easy even
through a swamp when a good firm strata of clay lies under-
neath, The whole land is covered with exceptionally high
grass, interrupted occasionally by steppe vegetation and thorn
thickets. Kigelias and splendid Dalbergias are very abundant
here; where the soil becomes drier and sandier, dense copses
of acacias are found, of two different species, one with white
thorns and pink and yellow catkins, the other with long stiff
white thorns, two or three of which are often situated on a
large black protuberance; the white blossoms of this kind
are wonderfully fragrant. - Reddish-brown, lofty ant-hills, with
crenelated spikes and points, are scattered here and there.
Large numbers of pigeons, whose liking for moist ground I have

302 LADO TO KEDIBA.

before mentioned, were cooing in the tall trees. Otherwise,
birds are not plentifal, although red widow-birds (Huplectes
ignicolor) climb about the grass stalks, and the confiding gros-
beaks (Orithagra leucopygi@) warble their varied stanzas to
the wanderer from among the acacias. - Khor Koda, which we
crossed this time much farther to the north than last year,
contained about twenty inches of water in a bed ten feet broad ;
at high water, however, it overflows the land far and wide, and
one has frequently to wait for days before being able to cross
it. The banks are sandy, and three to five feet high. - The
country lying to the west of the kAor is completely flooded in
the éarif; at present a small portion of it is dry, and after
crossing it we arrived at the Bamban swamp, through which
we waded ; it was in many places over three feet deep. To
the right and left of the ford the swamp extends to a distance
of about a mile. It is covered with thick grass, except in iso-
lated spots, where many hippopotami and still larger numbers of
crocodiles are found. - Swarms of dragon-flies flutter above the
swamp, and are chased by bec-eaters (Merops albicollis). The
rise of the ground after passing the swamp is at once made,
evident by the presence of whole colonies of a species of Sanse-
viera (named Tore in the Nyambara idiom), the fibres of
which are used in ropemaking. - Shortly before arriving at
Tombe's village of Jubba, I noticed cultivated patches of Peni-
cillaria, so rarely seen in the Bari country, and the more
common eleusine just running to seed. The village lies upon
the top of a hill, and overlooks the district of Lofita, of which
it is the chief village.

The rest of the day passed in building huts and making our-
selves comfortable, in making hypsometrical observations and
calculating the height of the hill. We were obliged to wait
here for porters from Mort, for those who had accompanied us
from Lado belonged to this place, and it would not have been
right to take them farther. The sun sank, and myriads of
glowworms pursued their fiery course through the still air,
whilst the stars twinkled overhead, and the sheet-lightning
seemed to set the sky on fire for several minutes at a time.

Chief Tombe had placed his big drum underneath the votive
tree which stood in the open space before my hut, and it soon

A NYAMBARA DANCE. 303

sent forth a sound of invitation to a dance, three strokes at a time
being continually repeated. Immediately the people collected
together, and in a minute two long lines were formed, one of
women, the other of men, each person holding two sticks made
out of the excellent wood of the Dtospyros mespiliformis, which,
when struck, gives out an almost metallic sound. The big drum
then began to beat in three quaver time, accompanied by a small
dram, while the sticks were struck against each other, and a
chorus formed a prelude to the ball. The hopping rhythm of
this really pretty production was succeeded by a processional
march of men and women simultaneously round the drum, ac-
companied by singing, but this solemn demeanour did not last
long. The drum struck up a lively tune, some of the young
men jumped high in the air and crowed like angry cocks,
some of the more eager women began the exciting trilling
sound of which all Negro women are so fond, and suddenly
they launched into an allegro furtoso. The men jumped high,
and on alighting rebounded, the sticks clattered, the singing
gradually swelled, here and there a woman advanced to the
men, hopping and swaying her body alternately to the right
and left, while her arms revolved like the sails of a windmill.
Her challenge was at once accepted, the men springing for-
ward, two or three at a time, to fight for the possession of the
women. - The enjoyment became more and more universal, the
men throwing off their inconvenient clothes, the women allow-
ing their aprons and tails to fly away, until a furious dance was
being performed round the drum, the women inside, the men
forming an outer ring-a veritable pandemonium, lighted up by
the red glow of torches, which were brandished by the dancers,
and from which a shower of sparks was scattered far and wide.

On such occasions, it is difficult to know what most to admire
-the untiring endurance of the dancers, who have been work-
ing during the day, or the primitive genuine enjoyment that is
mirrored in all these sparkling eyes and shining rows of teeth.
Women with infants on their backs, but more often with chil-
dren of four to five years of age, are the most indefatigable
dancers, and perhaps it is these gymnastics, carried on from
early youth, which account for the healthy development of the
Negroes, and the absence of deformities among them. It is also

30% ° LADO TO KEDIBA,

noteworthy, and may be mentioned in praise of the Negroes
here, that their dances are entirely free from obscenities, which
are the order of the day in Unyoro and Uganda. In dealing
with uncivilised people, it is difficult to say what is modest,
what immodest. - To our ideas that may seem to be immodest
which is not so to them, and the impropriecties may not be
greater than among civilised men, for in this respect the old
principle, Naturalia non sunt turpia, holds good to its utmost
extent. - Dr. Schweinfurth's ingenious remark, that the music
of the Negroes is learnt by listening to the music of the ele-
ments, can be very justly extended to their dance, which is
only a mimicry of what is seen going on in nature. The men
dancing around the women, who encourage them by alluring
pantomimic movements, may be seen also in the animal
world ; and the fundamental ideas underlying all Negro dances
point to their common origin, the many immaterial variations
extant being due to the varying occupations most in vogue
among different tribes. ut how are we to account for the
fact that the Negroes, although they are eminently musical,
and have an exquisite perception of time, have never yet suc-
ceeded in harmonising their choruses ?

The village of Jubba lies, as I have said, upon a hill, and
contains only about one hundred and twenty huts and their
granaries, most of the Negroes belonging to the place living in
small zertbas at from half an hour to two hours' distance from it.
Differing entirely from the Bari style, these dwellings have
elongated conical roofs, placed upon a circular substructure of
about three feet in height. The grass covering the roof is
not arranged in layers one over the other, but in one layer
from top to bottom. - The entrances are low, the interior dark
and undivided. Corresponding to the style in vogue farther
north, there are a few huts erected upon platforms, which are
raised upon stakes about five to six feet above the ground.
Every wife has a separate hut and granary for herself and her
children. Flat open pieces of ground, where sesame and corn
are beaten out, votive stakes covered with all sorts of skulls
and horns, and the round fruits of the Oncoba are found be-
tween the huts. The cultivated plants that I saw were Peni-
cillaria, eleusine, hibiscus, Hyptis, tobacco, gourds, and Lubia.

NYAMBARA CUSTOMS. 305

There are hardly any cattle, owing to the insano raids of
former years which deprived these districts of their entire
possessions in cattle.* The people keep fowls, and generally
make clay cages for them underneath the granaries; there are
also a few dogs. All the inhabitants are Nyambara (Khor Berr
is the boundary between this and the Bari country), who speak
a language differing only dialectically from Bari; numerous
Madi words are, however, mixed up with it, and point to a
long-continued contact with that people, whose migration from
the west to the east drove the Nyambara, who lived in the
south, towards the north.

To some extent at least, the Nyambara physically resemble
the Bari, but they have rounder heads and more compact
bodies. The colour of their skin is a pure chocolate brown,
often almost running into black. The extraction of the incisor
- teeth and their habits and customs are the same as those of
the Bari. I was rather surprised to find here women belong-
ing to the Mori tribe married to Nyambara men. Although
the Bari, more frequently than any of the Negroes of these
countries, leaves his home and settles anywhere where cattle
and red durrah thrive, it is an almost unheard-of thing to find
a Bari married to a woman of a different tribe. This is also
the case among most of the northern tribes, for marriage with
women of strange tribes is not permitted. It was, therefore,
the more surprising to see these fat, short Mori beauties, orna-
mented with leaves, amongst the Nyambara women, with their
long aprons. Nearly all the men here are clothed with a few
cotton rags, but their attire is very scanty, and they wear as
ornaments, by preference, necklaces of teeth and small tortoise-
shells, as also beads and bracelets and anklets made of iron,
copper, or brass. - Waist-belts, too, as among all Negro tribes, are
indispensable. The women's leather aprons are often prettily
decorated with glass or iron beads, and the fringed aprons
worn by the young married women often display very delicate
chains made of coiled iron wire. A glittering, polished,
dagger-like knife is here a part of the women's toilet. It is

* Emin Pasha refers here to the raids made by the Egyptian troops; to obtain
cattle and other supplies when they first occupied the country, raids which he

found it so difficult to suppress.-R. W. F.
U

306 LADG TO KEDIBA.

fastened to the waist-belt, and is not even laid aside when
dancing.

The swamp of Lere, at the base of the hill, is a flat covered
with thick grasses, nearly three miles broad ; a rut running
through it represents the path. - On account of the long season
of drought, the water even in the worst places did not exceed
eighteen inches in depth. The passage, however, through the
decaying slippery grasses was very unpleasant. When the
swamp is full it empties a very considerable quantity of water
into Khor Koda. From this point the road passed through
broad stretches of grass, broken here and there by patches of
thick brushwood ; it was also crossed by a number of small
brooks and swamps. - Besides Anona, the most characteristic
trees and bushes were Sarcocephalus, Oncoba, and many acacias,
small groups of Terminalia, and larger ones of Vatica, especi-
ally where the moisture was considerable. _ We had to wander
through a rather monotonous stretch of country before reaching
the boundary of the Nyambara district, which is formed by the
swamp of Lukomiikui. - Reddish sand-patches, brushwood, and
broad swamps followed one another, and we had also to cross
small brooks, having large granite blocks strewn upon their
banks. The Nyambara country borders upon Kederi, which is
inhabited by a tribe of the same name, whose chief, Jorube
(called Wod Loron by the Danagla), lives in the village of Kediba,
which we reached at midday. Dokhn-fields and a solitary |
small doléb palm were passed upon the road. As the village
only consists of the chief's huts, it is small, but a numerous
Negro population has settled around it in small open hamlets.
The huts are very small, low, and round, are constructed of
wood, and have very shapely roofs, formed of grass layers, so
neatly placed one above another as to look as if trimmed by
shears. - Near to the huts are graves marked by large pyramids
of stones.

THE KEDERU COUNTRY. 307

2. From KErpisa to BITI-CONDITION or THE Amant District.

THE KEDERG COUNTRY-A VILLAGE FESTIVAL-MISDEEDS OF THE DANAGLA,
AND RE-ESTABLISHKMENT OF SOCIAL ORDER-THE MORG COUNTRY-
NOTES ON THE AKKL

Among luxuriant fields of Penicillaria, growing to a height
of some ten feet upon the grey loam, we marched over hilly
country, bestrewn with stones, and covered in most parts with
bush. In the midst of the latter were numerous small zertbas
and industriously cultivated crops, where high wooden scaffold-
ings (often two storeys high) served as watch-towers and
frightened away the birds, which visit the crops in large num-
bers. - After passing the small Khor Ngorre, which was seven
feet broad, but contained only a little water in its red sandy bed,
we reached the important Khor Tafari, that here rushes rapidly
almost from south to north, and is about fifty to sixty feet
broad and five feet deep. 'The banks, which are fringed with
beautiful woods, are of a grey loam ; the eastern bank is about
ten feet high, and steep, while the western bank slopes gradually
to the water. The current has formed at this place a large
sandbank. The natives assert positively that this stream joins
Khor Ito farther to the north, and then assuming the name of
" Gel," crosses the country of the Elysb and reaches the Bahr-
el-Jebel opposite Bor. - Numerous small watercourses join the
Tafari, which is said to contain water throughout the whole
of the year. All the hamlets which we passed were deserted
on our approach by their inhabitants, who fled into the jungle.
The fires were burning in the huts, and as soon as we had passed,
their owners returned. The people here seem to be accus-
tomed to rough usage, for in our province it would certainly
never occur to any of the people to flee before a traveller.
A Kederi hamlet gives one the idea of a child's plaything,
owing to the neatness and diminutive size of the huts. We
halted shortly after crossing Khor Pottokai, where I observed
the nests of the weaver-bird, which I had missed for some time.
The honey-guides (Indicator Sparmanni) in great numbers
tried hard to attract our attention, unfortunately in vain.

308 ( KEDIBAX TO BITL

Another hour's march led us at last to a splendid watercourse,
which is so picturesque that it has no rival in this part of the
country. _ Climbing down its high banks, a richly wooded
island lay before us, beyond an expanse of water some hundred
feet broad, which we found to be three to five feet deep, as we
waded round the point of the island. Just above the ford,
Khor Labikko, a considerable stream coming from the south-
west, joins this river, the Ito, which flows from the south.
The united streams flow from the south-south-west to the
north-north-east, - The colour of the water is a light grey, but
its taste is very good. - Shortly after passing Khor Tafari, we
had an example of the speed with which these watercourses
can rise; this kAor rose so suddenly, on account of rain which
had fallen in the south, that the stragglers of our caravan were
cut off from us, and only caught us up two days later on. The
road from Khor Ito as far as Chief Doli's village presented
nothing worthy of mention save grass, steppes, small hamlets,
and a view of several blue mountains and peaks.

Morlabba, Doli's village, has about six hundred inhabitants,
belonging to the Kedert tribe, who appear to be quite different
from all the surrounding natives. _ The Mindari, who, to judge
from their language, belong to the Bari, dwell to the east of
Morlabba. - To the north-west dwell Mort-Kodd (¢.e., northern
Mord), who are erroneously called Midi by the Mittu tribes;
due west the same tribe is found, as well as the Mittu, and
Liggi and Nyambara live to the south. The language of the
Kedert differs entirely from that of the surrounding tribes ; it
appears, from its sharp s and rattling 7, most like the language
of the southern Midi, and the cardinal numbers from I to 4 are
identical. The name for 5 is different-taw in Madi, nds in
Kedert. - The other cardinal numbers are formed in Kederu by
5 and an affix; for example, dzidallo 5 + 1, dzidirri 5 +2, &e.
All other numbers are, however, entirely different, as also the
names of plants and animals.

The impression which the people made on me was very
favourable ; they were modest, even rather bashful, and they
appeared to be chiefly occupied in agriculture, as the Danagla
had ruined their cattle-breeding, and their fields covered the
country in all directions. A kind of red durrah, not so bitter

KEDERU DANCES. 309

as the species grown by us in the south, dokhn (Penicillaria),
eleusine, a great deal of sesame, two species of Lubia, a little
Hyptis, and tobacco are the chief plants cultivated. I also
noticed large baskets filled with the woody fruits of a gardenia
called ktrruru, which is cooked and eaten. In physical ap-
pearance the Kederi are mostly of a middle height, with well-
developed muscles and a good proportion of fat, not, however,
being too corpulent. Their heads are rounder than those
of the Bari and the Nyambara, and are better proportioned in
both diameters, the forehead being more erect. The face is
also rounder and less prognathous. - The nose is short, and the
lips not very pouting; the feet are small and perfectly flat.
The skin is a good deal darker than that of their southern
neighbours, although a reddish ground-tone is observable.
The hair is sometimes worn partially shorn; this is, however,
not usual, for the short locks are generally plaited with all
kinds of ornaments, and, like the body, they are coloured with
ochre mixed with oil. The ornaments are very various-from
the tails of the genet cat, which the men carry hanging from
their elbows, and the bead earrings worn by both sexes, to the
huge iron rings with which they decorate the upper arm;
everything, in fact, is represented which the Negro fancy can
invent. The leaf-aprons of the women, often worn only for
form's sake, vary, according to individual taste, from a thick
bunch of green leaves, which form a real covering, to a simple
green twig. 'The weak, but here very sturdy, sex is very
scantily attired, and many of the greasy beauties, laden with
iron rings, have absolutely no clothing save their colour. The
women appear to enjoy the greatest freedom, and mix on all
occasions with the men in a perfectly unconventional manner.
The dance, which here also is accompanied by drums and the
clapping of sticks, consists of a complete set of really beautiful
evolutions, and the tingling of the anklets of the dancers in
perfect time adds a new kind of music. I saw a young man
being carried round sitting on the shoulders of a comrade;
he was singing and gesticulating with his arms, spread-
ing them out above the people, as if blessing them, and was
surrounded by a ring of women dancing in a spirited manner,
and crying shrilly, Yo, yo; it was a scene which might have

310 EKEDIBA TO BITZ.

represented Evoé Bacche, especially as the beer-jars were in
great demand.

A number of half-tame zebra-ichneumons ran about the
village, as well as several fox-red baboons.

From Morlabba as far as Khor Gurud there is a stretch of
very well-cultivated land ; just at the ford the receives a
tributary, which is now dry. - Upon a path cut up by elephants
and full of holes we wandered through the steppe jungle, which
was rendered almost impassable by high grass, until we came
to the bed of Khor Arise, which contained only a little water,
twenty to thirty inches deep in places. - It was fringed by thick
Sizygium bushes, which are found in all such kAors. For about
half an hour we followed this easy road, which is, however, often
impracticable for days, and then the path led uphill again to
troublesome grass jungle, through which we had laboriously to
work our way. - Elephants are so numerous here that in an hour's
march we came upon four herds, and saw altogether one hun-
dred and twenty animals. Unfortunately, these colossal creatures
destroy the road by sinking into the soft soil and leaving their
footprints filled with water, as well as by throwing the trunks
of trees across the path, to which obstacles the chaos of grass
and thorns proves no pleasant addition. - Guinea-fowl and fran-
colins kept flying up every minute from the high grass to the
side of the path. In favourable places I noticed a rich growth
of yellowish-white fungus, often of considerable dimensions;
whether edible or not I do not know. We rested under a
magnificent group of Humboldtias. The Oncoba, which ripens
long before this in the south, had only small green fruits here.
In the middle of a group of about thirty tall doléb palms the
little village of Daso was situated. It was in process of re-
moval, however, as the fields were said to have become " old,"
that is to say, they do not repay cultivation. Nests of a large
red ant, constructed of green leaves, and the size of a man's
head, are found upon all the bushes ; the bite of these ants is
only to be compared to the sensation caused by boiling water
on the skin. Numerous bats flew, even by day, around the
summits of the doléb palms. Most of the species of bats found
here, and especially the large Xanthorpia, do not avoid the
light so much as is usually supposed.

DANAGLA MISDEEDS. JH

After passing a small Mor by means of a natural bridge
(i.e., the enormous roots of a fig-tree), and then following for a
time the road, which led through a swamp, thorns, and grass,
we turned in the direction of Jebel Paya. The land here has
such an elevation that the rise to the foot of this mountain was
first noticed when we began to descend. The mountain proper,
which lay at a short distance to the right of our road, rises to
a height of about six hundred and twenty feet above the pass.
It would have been impossible to ascend the mountain without
great loss of time, on account of the exceedingly high grass
and masses of bushes, so I did not attempt it.

The land now began to fall rapidly, especially towards
the right, but, on account of the forest, no view was to be
obtained, even in those places where cultivated fields inter-
vened. The people here grow an immense amount of sesame,
which thrives splendidly upon the rocky soil. Many doléb
palms, a number of small streams imbedded in the rock, all
flowing in the direction of the Amadi river, and many culti-
vated fields, lent to the last part of this road a very pleasant
variety.

Our headquarters on this occasion were established at Biti,
Chief Kango's village. A number of official duties were await-
ing me here. This village lies at a distance of about two
hours from the great Danagla station of Amadi, which be-
longed formerly to the mudirid of the Bahr-el-Ghazal. I deter-
mined to find out how things were going on there. On
looking over the records, which I had demanded, and which were
only unwillingly produced, I found that they contained some
curious information concerning the inhabitants, which I must
not omit to detail. There reside in the district of Amadi,
called also Kism Jur, in addition to forty Danagla in the pay
of the Government, who act as a sort of irregular soldiery, no less
than ninety-six other Danagla, of whom over twenty were, to
all appearance, doing nothing, whilst fifteen made a living as
traders, and forty-five were ushurid (tithe-payers), who, as a
matter of course, neither cultivated the land nor payed tithes,
and as many as eight were fakis. To these must be added
three hundred or more persons composed of dragomans, farukh-
miri (Government slaves !), makalil (Negro soldiers of the

312 KEDIBA TO BITL

Danagla), and shwiyalin-zilla (gun-bearers), all of whom are
ready to be armed in case of war, or razzias, and are prepared
to murder and to pillage. - In times of peace these people make
their captured slaves work for them, and should they not be able
to cultivate sufficient food, they oppress and pillage the settled
native population. - The following are the exact statistics :-

Resident Danagla, as under:- Dragomans, &c., as under :-
Having no employment _. s 27 | Mittu § § 3 a X 38
Ushurie (tithe- pay/ere) * 4 46 | Mora f f A yale: 76
Traders -. . , . 13 | Agar A f ¢ 5
Tailor 3 F s s f I N) am-Nyam (Zande) I % $1
Boatman . s s + s 1 | Monbuttu . A X '* 133
Faki $ 5 E F s 1 | Bongo > % , 4 6

ho 319
In Government employ _ . > 40
129

 

The unproductive population consists thus of four hundred
and forty-eight men ; and if to these be added lawful wives,
concubines, children, boys for carrying arms, slaves, &c., at the
rate of at least five to each man, it will be found that about three
thousand people live at the expense of the Negro inhabitants of
the district, who number from ten to fifteen thousand. In ex-
planation of the presence of so many Monbuttu and Nyam-Nyam,
it may be mentioned that after every raid into those districts
large numbers of slaves were brought back, who were ulti-
mately left to their own resources, as no employment could be
found for them. - In order to get rid of this rabble, I immedi-
ately gave orders that all people having no definite occupation
were immediately to leave the country, and the agriculturists
have engaged not to oppress the Negroes, to pay a yearly tax
of a hundred piastres, and, in case complaints should reach me
that they Aave oppressed or badly treated the Negroes, they '
will be at once expelled. Those persons following any trade
will also be compelled to pay a fixed tax and to submit to the
same regulations. One f@/i has been taken into Government
employ as a schoolmaster ; the others are to return to Khartum.
The number of Government officials in this district is exactly
forty, distributed over four or five small stations; if this small
number has been sufficient to terrorise the whole country, one

A MORU VILLAGE. 313

officer and fifty soldiers will certainly suffice to ensure order.
What sufferings these poor people must have endured !

Biti is situated outside the district of Kederit, in the Mort
country, which includes Morit-Kodd, or " northern" Mord, and
Mori-Missa, or "southern" Mord, a distinct dialect being
spoken in each of these divisions. Although the language
is perfectly distinct, and belongs to the westerly group of the
languages of our province, the frisure, ornaments, weapons,
and dress, if one can speak of dress, are exactly identical with
those of the Kederi. Most of the women are perfectly nude,
only some few of them hanging a small leafy twig from the
back of their girdles. It is curious to note that if one meets
a company of such belles deécolletées carrying water, they cover
their faces with their disengaged hand. All that you see
in Africa seems to prove that modesty is only a product of
education.

The village of Biti is rather straggling, and contains two
hundred and fifty to three hundred huts, together with their
granaries. - The huts are usually built in groups of two and three,
surrounded by small fences ; they have bell-shaped roofs, and are,
on the whole, rather larger than those seen in Kederi. They are
constructed, however, in the same neat manner, and have small
square entrances, which can be closed by day from the outside,
and by night from the inside, by a kind of lid. From a hygienic
point of view, it would be interesting to know how much oxygen
is provided for the two or three persons to breathe who sleep
in these hermetically sealed huts, in which a fire burns.
Large baskets, plastered over with clay, placed upon platforms,
about three feet high, and covered with conical straw lids, serve
as granaries. Just now they contain reddish-white durrah and
dokhn, which constitutes the chief article of food, and is eaten
as porridge, served with vegetable sauces. Various species of
gourds and Gynandropsis thrive everywhere, and provide the
materials for these sauces; yams and other roots also find their
way into the kitchen. The tobacco grown in this country
(mashirr, or Nicotiana rustica) has yellow flowers, and is very
strong. It is chewed as well as smoked, the former practice
having probably been introduced by the Danagla. Disorder
and dirt rule throughout the whole village, except near the

aff KEDIBA TO BHEL:

graves, which lie amongst the huts, and are conical mounds,
covered by stone pyramids, or enclosed within a circular fence
made of branches. Bodies are said to be buried in a squatting
position, the chin being placed upon the knees, and the arms
around the shins. As a rule, the henhouses are built near
the graves ; they are cylindrical in form, and constructed either
of stone slabs covered with clay, or else of wattle and daub,
with heavy stone lids and doors. 'The fowls are very small;
many are without tails; they are good layers, but their eggs
are small. The ancient wealth in cattle of this country has
become mythical. - Hunting appears to be little practised ; the
country literally teems with herds of elephants, but no one
ventures to attack them. In fact, the Negro tribes in this part
of the country, as well as in Makraks, are very indolent;
they are wanting in elasticity of mind and stamina, comparing
unfavourably in these respects with their neighbours, the Dinka,
Bari, and other tribes. This weakness of character has enabled
the Danagla to obtain a footing in the country, and has exposed
it to robbery, and to the evils inflicted by the slave-trade. The
whole village is filled by dogs of the breed common to this
country ; many are white, with yellowish-brown spots; others
are liver or fawn coloured. No one has thought of training
them for the chase.

Some ten minutes to the north-north-east of the village
there is a broad watercourse, at present dry, which leads to the
Amadi river. Many names are given to it; the Kedert call
it Rodi, the Mord, Eyi or Ayi. Water of good quality, although
rather milky, is found in the sandy bed of the kAor, very near
the surface, as also in other places in large basins surrounded
by blocks of rocks. The kAor is fringed by luxuriant vegeta-
tion, amongst which are fig-trees, yielding small but tasty figs,
and the Anogeissus, called silek by the Arabs, which is much
prized on account of its excellent white wood. The Carpo-
dinus tendril, from which indiarubber is obtained, is also very
common, and is called bono. Masses of tall bamboo edge the
khor, which must sometimes contain an immense quantity of
water, for, at a height of six to eight feet above the surface of
the bed, masses of plants, carried down by the current, hang
upon the bushes. Animal life is varied and abundant, and

SLAVES SET FREE. 333

especially among the birds striking varieties, such as Schizor/his,
Irrisor erythrorkynchus (a mad chatterer), and parrots, are very
numerous. - Among rarer visitors may be mentioned Corythaix
leucolopha, which, in small companies of two or three, coo
and laugh in the tips of the highest trees. . Their red wing
feathers are used in the district of Bufl for the discovery
of thieves.

._ My Monbuttu escort increases from hour to hour, especially
since the arrival of Gambari, the chief of the district of Kubbi,
which is inhabited by Monbuttu and Zande; he had been
kept a prisoner during two years in the province of the Bahr-
el-Ghazal. - To-morrow one hundred and five men, women, and
children are to be sent to their homes, and numbers are still
coming in requesting to be sent home. The Monbuttu, quite
contrary to the usual practice among Negroes, are very clannish,
and appear to possess a real love for their native country.
When I playfully suggested to the girls that they should marry
here, they resented the idea quite angrily. The Nyam-Nyam,
too, love their relations. I have seen a boy, ten years of
age, who came all the way from Dongu to see his brother
in prison. 'The most comical figure in the motley crowd
which here surrounded me was Asiks4, an Akkgd, about thirty-
five years of age, who had been measured by Felkin in Rum-
bek, and had now established himself here. He is a noisy
fellow, and rather tall (five feet five inches) in comparison
with eight other individuals belonging to his tribe whom I
measured.

Gambari and this very wide-awake pigmy told me that the
Akk& are divided into numerous small tribes, and have no
settled abodes. Hunting is their only occupation, and they
lead a nomadic life among the Monbuttu and Amadi. Tribes,
however, which nomadise in one of these countries do not inter-
marry with tribes nomadising in another, and the Akka of the
Mabode country, for instance, never mix with those in the
country of the Meje. One tribe in the Meje country has a pale
yellow complexion. If a company of these wandering people
arrive near the residence of a chief, they build small huts for
the married people, the unmarried having to be content with
simple sheds. They generally establish themselves along the

310 KEDIBA TO BITI

rivers, where game is abundant and safe retreats available.
The chiefs near whom they dwell are compelled to provide the f
Akk& with corn, bulbs, and whatever else is necessary for their
maintenance, in 'return for which they receive the skins,
feathers, tails, &c., of the animals caught in the chase. They
are very vindictive, and if refused a request they become dan-
gerous. They are exceptionally expert as hunters, and I had
an opportunity of witnessing their dexterity in killing birds,
which they shoot with arrows from which the iron tips have

been removed.

This morning another was brought to me. He was
about twenty-five years old, and his two conductors could
hardly hold him fast. He was one of a number of Monbuttu
slaves whom I had confiscated the previous day. He had only
recently been brought here from his home with the Monbuttu
slaves whom I seized yesterday, and he had hidden himself,
from fear of being killed and eaten, in the straw roof of a hut,
where he had remained undiscovered until driven out by hunger.
Notwithstanding his resistance, he had been brought here from
Amadi; on the road he escaped into the high grass, and was
only recaptured after considerable trouble. I ordered his re-
lease, but he protested energetically against accompanying the
Monbuttu, and demanded to be allowed to go to his home by
himself, which was at last permitted him. He had a reddish
but rather dark skin (probably dirt), was very prognathous,
rather swag-bellied, but exceedingly nimble. His height
was three feet six inches. His whole body was covered by
thick, stiff hair, almost like felt, which was especially thick on
the breast, around the navel, and on the pubes, - This was
the case with all the Akkd I have as yet examined. The
wrinkles of their skin, especially at the corners of the eyes,
are very remarkable, and give to the their lachrymose
expression, also making them look older than they really are.
Mixed marriages between the and Momvi result in in--
dividuals having a coppery complexion, playing into yellow,
whilst in all other respects the Akkd type predominates. A
girl of about fourteen years of age, the issue of such a mar-
riage, measured three feet seven-eighths of an inch. The
smell of the perspiration, which is very penetrating and

BITE TO. BUT. 317,

exceedingly unpleasant, and which is noticed amongst all the
southern tribes, is especially strong in the the Nyam-
Nyam, and the Monbuttu; it is most perceptible during
physical exercise, and after any special mental excitement.
Even a lengthened residence in a foreign country-together
with extreme cleanliness, hardly diminish the intensity of this
smell.

From the top of a mass of gneiss lying near the road to
Amadi, I was able to take some compass bearings, which I
believe connect my recent with my former work, as also with
Felkin's surveys. The river at Amadi had perhaps best be
called Ayi or Eyi, for the names Rodi and Dok are only
applied locally. - With regard to the name Bahr-Jemid, it is
derived from that of a small Dinka village, past which the
river flows.

3. Froxm Birt to Burt-Trr RivyEr Lav.

GNEISS HILLS-GRASS STEPPES-JEBEL YERE AND ITS CAVERNS--PILE-
DWELLINGS OF BUFI-THE SLAVE-TRADE-A LADY VISITOR.

Ter rain prevented our departure yesterday, and to-day the
outlook was not much more promising; but it ceased at
last, and we started in good time. After crossing Khor Barra
we entered upon hilly country, covered with bush and inter-
sected by many small AMors. The latter were dry, but the
high sand-dunes on their southern banks showed how great
had been the force of the rain-water which had rushed through
them to the Ayi. A long broad row of round gneiss domes
and ridges, often of considerable height, stretched over the
whole country. - Small woods of acacias had obtained a footing
round many of them, and numerous rock-hens (PH/lopachys
ventralis) sheltered in their clefts and grooves, and were already
busy pairing. Elephants too, to judge from their fresh spoors,
must be very abundant. The steppe woods, in which groves
of Anogeissus are found, form a refuge for numerous parrots.
We saw quantities of tamarinds heavily laden with fruit, and

 

318 BITE 70 BUPI

perfect thickets were formed by a species of Zizyphus with.
inedible fruits (called by the Dinka lang@-komn, i.e., elephant-
zizyphus), together with Randia, which is known as kar.

After a good three hours' march, we halted on one of the |
rocky ridges just mentioned, from which I managed to take
some compass bearings. In some small water-puddles lying
in rocky hollows I saw flowering water-lilies, which, not
requiring much moisture, are apparently capable of surviving
a period of drought. Their seed, called beshinin in Egypt, and
sitt?b in the Sudan, is converted into flour.

The scenery undergoes a change here, for a real grass steppe,
with isolated trees, replaces the woods, and the sandy soil
favours the growth of euphorbia. Rocky domes and ridges
abound here likewise, and from one of the summits we saw Jebel
Yere in front of us. . It was rather higher than the surrounding
domes, near one of which we were to camp for the night. Khor
Kokobere, containing a good quantity of water, flowed along
its base, bounded by masses of gneiss. Jebel Yere presents a
flat back, and yields a splendid view over rolling, well-wooded,
and, to judge by the numerous pillars of smoke, well-populated
country. _ Towards the north and east no elevation could be seen ;
in the west it rained, but in the south and south-west many
peaks and mountains that I had previously noticed and marked
down were visible. The broad river, now seen for the first
time in front of us, is about a quarter or half an hour from the
mountain, and flows from south-west to north-north-east.

Jebel Yere is famous on account of its large caverns, in
which the natives took refuge, with their herds and corn, when
their country was occupied, and where they for a very long
time resisted their conquerors. In one of the caverns there is
said to be a very deep fissure, which reaches down to the water,
and anything which falls down it comes out again by the river.
An investigation of the caverns showed that the entrances had
been very carefully blocked up with stones and thorns, to pre-
vent the entrance of wild animals. I found an Entada, called
kangbd by the natives, growing here abundantly on the rocks ;
it is eaten with relish after being peeled in hot water.

A second broad belt of gneiss reefs and ridges, from which
large slabs may be lifted, extends beyond Jebel Yere. The

PILE-DWELLINGS. Sig

rock is generally whitish-grey or bluish in colour, and
sometimes it shows broad stripes in white or dark grey.
Petherick and Dr. Schweinfurth have already: noticed these
remnants of an ancient range of mountains. The steppe wood
is mostly filled with high grass. - On the whole, the ground is
composed of that widespread red clay, covered with quartz
rubble, which becomes more and more predominating as we
proceed to the south. Here and there the upper stratum has
been worn down into coarse sand, and towards Buf yellow
alluvial sand occurs with quartz fragments. _ In the depressions,
however, a black layer of humus overlies the red clay, and
forms in wet places muddy pools, which are the favourite
haunts of elephants. On the other hand, in drier places it is
even now cracked and fissured in all directions.

The grass steppe, with its clumps of doléb palms, is suc-
ceeded beyond Khor Lomario by a dense acacia bush, passing
which we entered extensive fields of durrah and dokhn, inter-
spersed by places where the bushes and high grass had been
left standing in order to provide material for building purposes.
Thousands of finches haunt these fields, and are a great plague.
The havoe which weaver and widow birds (Hyphantornis,
Euplectes) are capable of perpetrating in maize and dokhn fields
is absolutely astonishing. A covering of green leaves does
not always suffice to protect the maize-cobs from their strong
conical beaks,. We reached the river shortly before midday.
The path led so close along the edge of its yellow loamy bank,
which is sixteen to twenty feet high, that if we dropped a
paper it fell into the water. - The latter was now of a yellowish
colour, and appeared to be alive with fishes.

Here, at last, we were among the pile-dwellings. A platform,
supported upon over three hundred stout piles, each one six feet
high, stood within a broken-down bamboo fence. It had a length
of ninety feet, a width of eighty feet, was made of timber and
brushwood, and covered with clay and cow-dung, to form a
level flooring. The ground-floor among the piles serves as a
kitchen and storehouse; the water-jars and the murhakka (grind-
stone) are placed in it, and the servants sleep there. A square
hole in the centre of the platform provides this lower room with
light, and ladders lead through the hole to the platform. - This

$28 BITE TO BUFL

latter is divided by a reed fence into an outer and an inner
compartment, the former containing two large huts, each about
fifteen feet in diameter, with neat mud walls about three feet
high, and a lofty conical roof. These two huts serve as a
dwelling-place for the master of the house. 'The inner com-
pound, or harem, contains six smaller huts. The whole ar-
rangement is really curious, especially here, where the ground
is not swampy, and where termites are only seldom found, so
that there appears to be no real reason for such a method of
housebuilding.

The station of Bufi consists of a collection of such buildings,
those occupied by the Danagla differing only by their greater
filth from those of the rest of the population. - Each building
was originally surrounded by a bamboo fence, but these are
for the most part broken down, which is strange, for here
leopards carry off people in the day-time from out of their
houses, as we had an opportunity of witnessing. 'To each
homestead belong small gardens, in which are grown maize,
bamias, onions, a species of white bean, and egg-apples
(Solanum melongena); cotton appears to flourish here. The
tomato has not yet found its way here, but I saw bananas,
lemons, and bitter oranges, and the papaw-tree, which I
had brought with me from Uginda, had spread from station
to station as far as this place. The plants cultivated in addi-
tion to those just named are the usual species of grain, sweet
potatoes (with red skins), as well as the mlokAi@ (Corchorus)
which always follows the Arabs, Gynandropsis, Hibiscus can-
nmabinus, &c. Here at any rate a great deal could be done
in the way of agriculture, as water is plentiful and the
people very numerous. - But unfortunately the slave-trade
has been in full swing here, and no one thinks of using his
existence for any other purpose than to rob, to plunder, and
to deal in slaves.

The river, which is called by the natives, Doghuirguru,
makes a great bend near the station, and then assumes an
almost due northerly direction. After flowing through the Bufi
district, it passes through the country of the Kich, a division
of the Dinka, including the Jemid, Lau, and other tribes, and
is known there by different names, such as Nam-Lau (the river

 

THE LOWER AYLI $81

of Lau), &e. Farther to the north, where the districts of the
Atot, the Kich, and the ElyAb border upon each other, it
separates into two arms, which flow round a large island, that
during the AAarif is intersected by many small canals and
swamps. All the cattle zeribas of the neighbouring Dinka
are situated upon this island. The eastern arm of the river,
upon the right bank of which the village of Lau, or Lao, is
situated, and which has to be crossed when going from Shambé
to is called Goll by the Dinka. 'The westerly arm is
named Gok. Farther to the north, both arms join and enter
the Bahr-el-Jebel near Fauvér. The river is bordered by
large, almost impassable swamps. These swamps, as also the
river itself, are often perfectly dry during the dry season, so
that water is only obtained by trenching. Lal, or Elual,
which is marked on Pruyssengere's route, is only known here
as one of the numerous swamp troughs.

The shameful slave-trade here causes me so much work that
the days often appear to be really too short; in three days I
have sent one hundred and eighty slaves from the suburbs of Buf
to their relations or to their chiefs, and even yet chiefs from the
Mandari mountains are arriving here to reclaim their people.
In performing this work, it is impossible to rely upon the least
help from the officials of Buffi. A passive opposition to every-
thing that I order makes all beneficial work almost impossible.
No one will move a hand to help; to everything I say they
answer " Yes," but at the same time remain sitting upon their
ankarebs ; and all this one has to bear in the face of the com-
plaints of the oppressed natives, and in view of the complete
devastation of the country !

Nyamusa is the name of this district, which is inhabited by
the Bufi tribe. Gonge lies to the north-west; Molo, which is
said to have a language of its own (not Dinka), to the north ;
Mundar, or Mandari, where Bari is spoken, lies to the east ;
Wira, or Vira, to the south ; and the Mort, erroneously called
Madi by their neighbours, live to the south-west. The language
spoken by the Bufi Negroes cannot readily be classed with that
of any of the neighbouring tribes, the numerals being entirely
different; but in all the languages and dialects of the tribes

living in this neighbourhood so many analogies are to be
X

Bif1 TO BUFE

322

found, that it is impossible to doubt that they spring from the
same root. It is, however, surprising to find the indisputable
relationship between the language spoken here and the Madi
language spoken to the south of the Bahr-el-Jebel, and it is
impossible to avoid coming to the conclusion that all these
small peoples and tribes originally dwelt far to the west, and
were then driven towards the east by a migration of tribes
from the west, to be at last driven asunder and scattered, as
by a wedge, to the localities in which we find them to-day.
That all these movements have caused changes in the language
is only what might have been expected.

Although Dr. Schweinfurth accuses the Monbuttu women of
being rather lascivious, it nevertheless appears that their attach-
ment to their husbands and their sense of family ties are not
thereby decreased. I have mentioned that Gambari, the chief
of the Monbuttu district of Kubbi, had been detained in Dem
Suleiman, in the Bahr-el-Ghazal, on the charge of having made
and sold eunuchs. - Now, it is perfectly true that eunuchs were
made and sold in Monbuttu, but it is just as certain that the
offenders were two Danagla-Beshir Salah and Saleh Hakim-
and when they were accused of it, they tried, according to
the usual custom here, to put the blame on " Abd" (slave)
Gambari. During his absence from his district, the greatest
disorder prevailed ; the opportunity was taken to rob and
plunder in all directions, and to send whole convoys of slaves
to the so-called mudirié, Gurguru, <.e., the old district of Rol.
Children were stolen from their parents, to be sold at last for a
bottle of brandy or a pair of old trousers. All this is best
proved by the number of Monbuttu (two hundred and fifty)
whom I have already released and sent back to their homes.

At midday, the proper time for paying a visit, I was sur-
prised by the arrival of a lady. Ungauna, Gambari's chief
wife, had come all the way from Monbuttu, intending to go to
Lado, to request me to liberate her husband. She had, however,
heard upon the way that he was at liberty, and with me ; she
had therefore hurried here, through to see him, and
she now came to thank me. She was of middle height, rather
stout, but although she was very dark, a yellow under-tone
shone through her skin, and, like all the Monbuttu, she had

BUFIL TO RUMBEK. 323

very beautiful and well-kept hands. Save for a girdle round
her waist, she was perfectly nude. In her right nostril
there was a highly polished iron nail with a broad head, and
with this exception, she wore no ornaments. - Her frisure was,
on account of the cireumstances, dressed in the fashion in vogue
here, and her chignon was transformed into a number of curls
and rolls, which reached down to her shoulders. It was de-
lightful to see with what ease she entered my hut, took a chair
and sat down, whilst the dragoman, her brother-in-law, who
accompanied her, was obliged to stand. It is very easy to
recognise the different social positions of the women here by
their behaviour.

 

4. From BUFI To RUMBEK.

KERIMU-A BAND OF MUSICIANS-BUTTERFLIES-PONCET'S OLD ZER{BA-
THE YALO CATARACTS-FERTILITY OF THE |LESI COUNTRY - PILE-
DWELLINGS OF THE LOFI-CHIEF DOJERA, A HERCULES-THE AGAR
COUNTRY-AYAK A NEST OF SLAVE-DEALERS-THE ANIMAL WORLD -
FORDING THE YALO.

WE had to march for about a quarter of an hour up-stream
before reaching the ford, where the " good road " was said to
begin. 'The water there only reached just up to the breast, so
that the passage of the river (260 feet broad) was accomplished
with considerable rapidity. The road then led over a difficult
stretch of stiff mud, which could not be passed without con-
siderable disarrangement to the toilet; this was followed by
the swamp of Tunjuru, which was covered by high grass and
stretched out to a distance of nearly a mile on either hand.
The muddy gutter through which we waded was very deep in
some places, and caused many an amusing scene. After passing
through some cultivated land and by a number of isolated home-
steads, then through several swamps and swampy Zhors, the
road led over a monotonous district covered by steppe wood or
acacia bushes, until we reached a welcome resting-place near a
large mass of gneiss. Although an extensive view is obtained
from the top, it unfortunately provided nothing of interest with

321 BUFI TO RUMBEK.

which to enrich my sketch-map,. The short turf was here com-
pletely covered with the excrement of the Sciwrus (Xerus) leueum-
brinus, which, after being powdered, is used to heal old wounds,
for this squirrel feeds upon all kinds of aromatic bulbs. This
custom reminds me of a practice which obtains in the south
Syrian desert, where the excrement of certain gazelles is used
in the same way.

Trom the Mimvolu peak-for such is the name of the mass
of gueiss just mentioned-the path followed a sinuous course
until, after passing the road which leads direct from Amadi to
Ayak, it suddenly turned to the south, and then branched off
to the west, over stony, gently rising country, until it reached
a small village named Kérimu, which lies in the midst of
dokhn-fields. - As the name Kérimu is also given to the whole
district surrounding the village, I think I am justified in
assuming that this is Petherick's Kirmo, and if so, our routes
here join one another. - Chief Atoti, who resided here with his
wives, received us in a very friendly way, but he was not in
a position to offer us a drink of water, as the springs are
said to be very far away, and he therefore requested us not to
camp at his village. - Kérimu is small, and surrounded by rich
tobacco plantations and beautiful high Anogeissus trees, which
are called here, as in the Dinka country, amed.

A curious band of music had taken up a position at the foot
of a stately tamarind. A young man blew an immense horn
constructed of long gourds; by increasing and diminishing the
size of the sound-hole, he was able to modify the notes which
he produced; they sometimes resembled the trumpeting of an
angry elephant or the roaring of a bull, or sometimes the soft
purring of a great cat. - He was accompanied by a friend who

clapped with wooden staves and sang a monotonous song. We _

set off, headed by this music, and I am even now amazed
when I think of the lungs which were able to go on blowing
incessantly over the long uneven road.

The steppe became much more stony from this point. Many
nodules of ferruginous clay, black as coal, lay in the red sand.
- A diminutive fly, called by the people dubanet-el-fil, i.e., ele-
phant's fly, is one of the plagues of these grass steppes. I
found it more impertinent than any of its species, and it dis-

eater reina s

commin is

THE YALO RIVER. $28

played an intolerable preference for the corners of the eyes and
the nose. If it is crushed between the fingers, a strong smell
of honey remains. There are also two other species of flies
which are very common. One is like the common European
blue-bottle, the other is a large ash-grey species. Butterflies
are also seen in great quantities, from the large Eques species
down to the almost invisible moths. The most beautifully
coloured species I have yet seen is undoubtedly a small green
Zygrna, which, being coloured purple silver and steel green,
shines like a spark of fire. Unfortunately, I had no insect pins
in my possession.

At midday we arrived at a point where the ridge of hills
running along the river is touched by the road, and a fow
minutes later we came upon the river itself, which has exceed-
ingly high banks, but we left it almost immediately. The
path branched away between the hills, and was rendered diffi-
cult by the presence of crevices and very deep rain-gutters, as
well as thorns, especially those of the Randia, which were more
numerous here than elsewhere. After about an hour's ex-
ceedingly difficult march, we again reached the river-bank, which
was about twelve feet above the water, and descending which
we arrived at the ford. The current presses upon the steep
eastern bank. The river is exactly one hundred and eighty-seven
feet broad ; in the middle large blocks of stone were lying, and
the water reached up to our waists. The river is called the
Yalo, both by the Bufi and the Lesi, but farther to the north
the Dinka call it Gel. The west bank, which has only a gentle
fall, is often flooded, and here, close by the river, is a high tree,
a Diospyros, on account of which the ford is called Patokome
(Meshrat-el-Jogan). Jogan is the Arabic name for the Dios-
pyros, the sweet fruits of which are freely eaten everywhere.
Mohammed Mismar's small zertbe« lies about ten minutes up-
stream ; he lives there alone. Five minutes to the west is
the place where Poncet's zertba, Mvolo, once stood, and this
name is retained to the present day. The name Moffa, which
has been given by Junker to the place, is the name of the
chief of a village near to it, and the word Lési, which is
commonly applied to the small zertb@ here, is really the name
for the district, and for the small tribe which inhabits it.

326 BUFL TO RUMBEK.

From the top of the groups of rocks which are scattered
about, and which Dr. Schweinfurth has very well depicted,
a ridge of hill was seen in the north-north-west. - It was
probably the mountain named Gurken by the Sofi, and Dokié-
vuru by the Liési. - The Hyrax and graceful squirrels still play
upon the rocks, and the Ptilopachys pair in the surrounding
fields The old szertbe has vanished, and in its place are
luxuriant corn-fields. I shall, however, build a small station
here, and willingly spare five soldiers for it.

After rather more than half an hour's march, we arrived at the
cataracts of the Yalo. The river, which is surrounded by mag-
nificent vegetation, is divided here into three arms, separated
from one another by islands, formed of a chaotic agglomera-
tion of rocks, over which it is very difficult to climb. The
name of Damliba Manmiifo, <.¢., the Great Rapid, is given to
the easterly branch of the cataract; the number of fish it
contains is quite marvellous. On the road we had already
seen many people laden with fish twenty-four to forty inches
long, which gave no very agreeable perfume to the air. The
ground was covered with fish scales and bones, the remains
of many suppers, for the natives often fish here all night long.
Even the rocks are spotted white all over, an evidence of the
presence of large numbers of fish-eating birds, the most im-
portant of which are herons and ZHuliaétus vocifer. - More than
twenty men were standing in the roaring rapids, the water
being up to their waists ; the circular nets are stretched over
rods and simply let down into the stream and drawn along
against the current, to reappear immediately with three or four
fish, The principal fishing season is in November and Decem-
ber, when the river falls. Most of the spoil are fish of prey
which follow the lead of swarms of Chromis. Many Sanseviera
grow upon the rocks, as do bushes of Tinnee @thiopica, which
were in bloom when we passed, and the ground was covered
with the orange-yellow prickly fruits of the Cucumis Tinneana.

The district inhabited by the Losi tribe appears to be very
fruitful, to judge by the cultivation. - Besides the usual species
of corn, Hyptis, Voandzeia, and ground-nuts are cultivated.
Hunting must be extensively carried on, and with much
success, for we noticed great numbers of pitfalls in the high

THE SOFT 327

grass. The women are very ugly, and disfigure their lips by
the insertion of wooden discs or cones of quartz. Very deli-
cately made iron chains are much worn, and a curious product
of this country is seen in the pipe-bowls made out of red clay
in exact imitation of Egyptian patterns, which have been in-
troduced here from Khartim. A yellow clay found here is
eaten ; it is said to aid the digestion of fish, and also to take
away the smell of fish from the hands. The Dinka use the
strongly aromatic leaves and flowers of the Hypfis spicigera
for this latter purpose.

A damp grass steppe, strewn with many masses of gneiss,
between which doléb bushes grow, led by a gentle fall from
Mvolo to the river; after the rapids the latter passes into the
lower plain, to which the cataracts serve as steps. Whilst near
the station the Yalo flows due north, at the ford we crossed it
makes a bend to the west-north-west, and there it was one
hundred and thirty-four feet broad and thirty inches deep.
The bed was sandy, and bordered on each side by enormous
growths of grass. To the lefé of the road we followed after
fording the river, we came upon many old channels, which
were frequented by hippopotami, whilst herons and Sarcio-
phori were busily engaged in catching worms on the muddy
banks. Amongst the dokhn-fields and steppe-wood, in which
patches of red sand were strewn with gneiss rubble, there
were frequent strips of swamp nearly always formed by small
khors, which were very difficult to cross. 'The whole of this
small district, which is named Diuigwara, or Diugbara, belongs
to Chief Agai. His village was just being removed farther
to the south. A group of Anogeissus and Solanacese, in the
middle of the savannah which adjoins this village, marks the
place where the village of Ruku was once situated. We were
joined here by the two sons of the late chief, A-uri, armed
with large wooden clubs and broad-bladed buffalo spears ; they
had full beards and very beautifully made iron bracelets. It
is curious that all the people here chew tobacco.

At Ruku we entered into the Sofi district, where the lan-
guage differs considerably from the Lesi idiom, but is identical
with the language spoken in Beli, to which I shall subsequently
refer. The country had here a very wintry aspect; in many

328 BUFI TO RUMBEK.

places the grass had been burnt down, and red sand-patches
stretched out before us, blackened by ashes and charcoal. (In
some places, also, we noticed grass stubble which had been left
standing, and masses of yellow withered leaves scattered over
the ground or still hanging to the twigs of trees.

A sudden rainfall compelled us to camp in the small village of
Joro, the huts of which occupied a small clearing in the wood.
Some of them were built upon the ground, others upon plat-
forms. The space underneath the platforms is much sought
after on account of the shade it provides, and all house-work
is performed there. 'The men also assemble there to chat
with the women, who, as in all Mittu tribes, possess a con-
siderable amount of independence. I again noticed the lip
ornaments, the quartz cones, as well as the formidable naked
knives hanging to the waist-belts of the women, who were all
nude and very fat. A small hill, Dogrupatara, about 150 feet
high, lies near the village. On climbing it I obtained a view
of high rolling ground and a great number of small mounds
and rocks. The course of the Yalo, with its western bend,
was also well seen. The most noteworthy heights which
caught the eye were Jebel Gurken of the Lesi) and
Jebel Khartim, which had been noticed by previous travellers.
The former of these mountains is a slightly extended range of
hills, about 250 feet high, having, especially upon its northern
side, conspicuously bare cliffs. Jebel Khartim, or, to give it
its proper name, Jebel Nyedi, is a hilly plateau; it is called
by the Lesi, Dobrato.

On returning from my walk I had the unexpected pleasure
of catching a specimen of the mole-mouse (Georychus), which
appeared to be taking its evening promenade, and by whetting
its teeth against one another and softly hissing, it prepared to
defend itself. Its very small eyes were at the same time com-
pletely shut, giving a peculiar appearance to its large head.
The little animal, with its ornamental silver grey fur, the white
spot upon its forehead, and its soft hair, is very attractive. - It
comes far oftener into daylight than the mole, which it appears
to replace here.

The huts of the village of Rengo, which lie at the foot of
Jebel Nyedi, differ somewhat from others by having the points

)

1

A HERCULEAN CHIEF. 329

of their roofs decorated by star-shaped straw bundles. The
wealth of this district in cereals is very great, especially in
sesame, which we saw being hung up to dry ; it is on this
account that the Danagla have established zerfbas here, which
form a great emporium for the slave-trade.

The nearer we approached the hill, the more stony became
the ground and the more sparse the growth of plants. The
masses of rock between which we passed, and which formed
the hills, were mostly completely bare, and scorched by the
sun. It can easily be understood that in such a district the
natives were able for a long time to successfully withstand the
inroads of the Danagla. The descent to Dolla led through
high grass as far as the black alluvial bottom-land, where stalks
of durrah, often more than two fingers thick, shoot up to the
height of twelve feet. - Dolla is a large village, with many pile-
dwellings; it belongs to the district of Jirri, which name
Petherick gives to a village. The men's straw caps reminded
me of the southern Nyam-Nyam ; broad-bladed spears and
weighty wooden clubs, like those of the Dinka, constitute their
arms. In spite of their ornaments of fresh foliage and masses
of iron ornaments and lip plates, the women are, I think,
the most ugly that I have ever seen. Large bechives of the
usual shape hung on all the trees, the production of honey
being very large. The wax has up to the present been thrown
away.

In the open steppe wood, which extends as far as the small
village of Ngorre, there were hundreds of small mushroom-
shaped habitations of termites made from the thick grey clay.
The high red structures of the Termes bellicosus are hardly ever
found on such ground. The village was completely filled with
small fish, laid in the sun to dry, and giving out an intolerable
stench, which, however, did not seem to affect the Negroes.
A group of high doléb palms marks the situation of Moddo-
beri, the residence of Dojera, the chief of this district. He
was a man of herculean frame, and very well proportioned.
The form of his face, his expression, and his large beard gave
him the appearance of a Nubian. Report says that he once
killed a buffalo with a lance, and a sight of him makes it easy
to believe. Hospitality does not seem to be well understood

330 BUFI TO RUMEEK,

here; no one aided us in the construction of our huts, nor
even provided us with water. I may mention, however, as
a partial excuse for the people, that water was very scarce
through the stretch of country we had just passed, that the
villages are usually situated at a considerable distance from
their water-supply, and this village, moreover, had only recently
been occupied. _ We marched over sandy, reddish-brown soil,
covered with nodules of iron, in the direction of several large
rocks, which lie on a kind of open plateau free from all grass,
and where we saw the remains of the huts of former travellers.
Those of the inhabitants who speak Arabic call this locality
Hajr Abdu (the stone of Abdu), after a former official who was
stationed in Mvolo, but the natives call it Dolille Finnu.

From this point the district inhabited by the Dinka tribe
Agar commences. At a distance of some ten minutes to the
side of the road there is a mound, entirely covered with frag-
ments of stone, above thirty feet high. Deep holes are dug
round its base, from which the natives obtain very brittle stone,
sometimes red and sometimes white in colour, and greasy like
tallow. - The powder made from the white stone is rubbed into
the skins that cover the big drums, and is also used to paint
the huts and the cheeks. The red stone, which is sometimes
almost purple, is mixed with the fat obtained from the butter-
tree, and then used for anointing the body. - This hill is called
Dugfala (hole) by the Sofi and Lesi; the Agar word vin has the
same meaning. At the base of the hill, the difference between
the red soil which composes the hill and the light grey loamy _
soil of the declivity is very sharply marked. A great number
of Agar had come to meet us here, in order to express their
joy that a Government had been installed, and that a new
and, we will hope, improved era had begun for this oppressed
country. A number of the common petunias were in flower
along the road ; they are here lilac-coloured, whereas to the
south they are usually white. Many really colossal trees give
a park-like character to this district. - Unfortunately we saw,
too, the ruins of many villages which had been burnt down,
showing that this region had not escaped the devastations of
the slave-dealers. In the station of Ayak more than three
hundred slaves had just been sent away to their relations and

AYAK, A SESCT OF SLAVETEADERS. 331

chiefs, by their so-called masters, from fear that on my arrival
complaints would be made to me. - For over an hour we wan-
dered along in the midst of corn-fields, with their small watch-
huts, until at last we were greeted in a clearing by a long
row of about two hundred well-armed Danagla, an indication
that we should find an immense number of slaves in the station.
My small company of soldiers (ten men) formed a comical con-
trast to the forces of the Danagla.

The station is called Ayak. Dufalla, or Defa'allah, as it
should perhaps be called, is the name of its Governor, a scamp
of the first water, distinguished even in this respect above
his fellows: Koran in hand, he plunders far and wide. The
situation of Ayak, between Shambe, Rumbék, and Amadi,
would especially fit it to be the capital of the entire district,
and it is impossible to understand why Rumbek, where even
water can hardly be obtained, has occupied that position
hitherto.

The environment of Ayak is gloomy in the extreme. The
trees have been cut down, and a rolling plain covered by grass
extends on all sides. The soil is a sticky yellow loam, and it
would seem to be often flooded, to judge from the great pools
of yellow water which even at this season we saw in the fields.
The river, which makes a sharp bend close by the station, is
one hundred and nine feet broad at the southern ford, and varies
from four feet three inches to four feet eight inches in depth.
The banks are at present about fifteen feet above the level
of the water, and consist of pure reddish-brown sandy clay
unmixed by stone; in fact, not a single rock or stone is to be
seen as far as the eye can reach. The station itself consists
of irregular congeries of huts and zerfibas, mostly built on
high platforms; but as many people have also settled upon
the ground, it occupies a considerable area. Very few gar-
dens are to be seen, for the people here can think of nothing
but slaves. If, however, proper canals were dug and irriga-
tion employed, much might be expected here. 'The popu-
lation consists of the scum of Khartuim, Berber, Dongola, &e.

The men who were too lazy to work or could not exist there
_ came here and built huts, where they live, with their wives
and servants, at the expense of the Negroes. In round num-

$32 BUFI TO RUMBEK.

bers, and not counting slaves or other appendages, I suppose
there aro some three hundred of these parasites; and if we add
to them their slaves, four for each man, as the lowest calcula-
tion, there are about fifteen hundred who live upon the natives.
Under such conditions, although the country produces a remark-
able quantity of corn, sesame, sesame-oil, fat from the butter-
tree, wax, ground-nuts, &e., it is not to be wondered at that we
heard from the natives many complaints of hunger.

After all the disgust which I feel when writing of the state
of affairs in this place, it is quite a relief to turn from that sub-
ject to the fauna and flora of the surrounding country, which,
however, is not very rich. Hundreds of lizards climb about
the huts, the hedges, and all the old tree-trunks, hunting the
numerous flies and spiders which infest the place. The lizards
appear to have been infected by the reigning love of plunder,
for they fight and bite each other's tails off. A small python
about five feet long, which I received as a present, and which
has become tame very quickly, greatly terrified my servants,
whom nothing would induce to come near it. The horned
raven (T'metoceros abyssinicus) stalked round me, and often
allowed me to stroke its head. It was the sworn enemy of
two zebra ichneumons (Herpestes fasciatus), which, with the
curiously droll impudence which characterises these little
beasts, snapped away all tit-bits from him. In comparison
to these creeping parasites were several splendid examples
of a lemur (Otolienus galago), which is very common here, and
becomes very tame when well treated. They are delightful
little creatures, with their large umber-coloured eyes. - After
waking from sleep in the evening, they came and washed in
the water-pot. Civets and genets are said to be common, but
I could not obtain any. On the other hand, a nice specimen
of the caracal (Welis caracal) was brought to me.

As soon as we had left the river and turned in a northerly
direction, we passed through the extensive corn and lubia
fields which surround Ayak. We then reached grey loamy
soil, which is often inundated, and noticed on high patches,
where the soil is partially mixed with sand, a luxuriant growth
of ground-nuts. Although this plant is cultivated to a great
extent by the Agar, no one has ever thought of utilising the

A WELL-CULTIVATED COUNTRY. 333

oil which is obtained from it, for any other purpose than that
of anointing the body. The people believe, of course incor-
rectly, that the oil of the ground-nuts would be injurious to
eat, but that the sesame-oil is wholesome. All our porters
carried with them packets of ground-nuts neatly wrapped in
leaves.

After marching an hour and a half from Ayak, woe arrived
at the ford of the river, which flowed between steep sandy
banks about ten feet high; it was sixty-five feet broad, and
from three to five feet deep. The river is bordered by very
uneven ground, with deep swampy places full of water and
mud. IG took us half an hour to pass through this, after
which we came to a small patch of short grass, followed by
extensive fields of durrah and dokhn, alternating with grass
steppe. The district on the other side of the river is called,
like the principal village, Ferial, but a river Ferial or Welle
does not exist here. If one may judge from the extensive
cultivation, the number of people we met on the well-trodden
paths, and the numerous zertbas, this country is very thickly
populated, and is exceedingly productive in corn, sesame, and
tobacco. The mashirr of Ayak (Nicotiana rustica), as well
as very large gourds which are used for jars, are much sought
after and prized throughout the whole district of the Bahr-el-
Jebel. In the corn-fields surrounding the village of Malék,
which we left to our right, were a number of quails with their
young, probably the Coturniz Delegorguei, for the C. communis,
which is very rare here, would certainly have no young at
this time. - Just behind the village lay the swamp of Warrafian,
which is never dry.

After a four hours' march, we rested under a group of butter-
trees, which provided us with shade from the burning sun,
and where we received presents of water from the Agar chiefs
living in the neighbourhood. From this place a long march
through corn-fields, villages, and patches of ground scorched by
the sun, led to the wells of Miénval, which were in the middle
of the road ; they were about ten feet deep, in thick, light grey
loam, and contained very dirty water of a milky colour. With
a little trouble, however, it would be possible, by deepening
the wells, to get better water, and that this is not done shows

* T
334 RUMBEK.

the indolence of the people. When they go along the water-
less stretch to the market at Rumbeék in the winter, the
dry season, they have no need of water; and in the summer,
the rainy season, there are pools enough from which they can
drink.

Many mosquitos were found near the water, and it was
perfectly astonishing to see the immense quantities of earwigs
(Forficula sp.), of a species having an orange-coloured thorax
with a black stripe. On entering an Agir hut you are lite-
rally covered with these Orthoptera; the high grass also is
perfectly alive with them.

The boundary between Afin and Atof, two of the small
strips of country into which the Agfar territory is divided, was
situated at two and a half hours' march beyond the well. The
cattle in this district were estimated at between five and six
thousand. - The district of Montij was characterised by its thicker
woods. Large troops of baboons were met with here; they
were taking their breakfasts, and hardly took any notice of us.
A spot called Lermé, behind the village of Afiati, was pointed
out to me, where a village with all its inhabitants, who were at
the moment singing and dancing, was swallowed up by an earth-
quake. A very pleasant march through wooded country and
amongst many villages, brought us at last to the station of
Rumbék, the principal settlement of the Danagla in this
country. It has been inhabited by them for many a long year,
and I shall probably find a considerable amount of work to do
before things are as they ought to be.

5. RunmsBEK: AcAr AaAxp DINKA TrisEs.

RUMBEK AND ITS HISTORY-THE AGAR TRIBE- MATRIMONIAL BARGAINS-
woOMEX's RIGHTS- ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE-DRESS AND ORNA-
MENTS-DOMESTICATED SNAKES-A PARIAH TRIBE-SUPERSTITIONS.

RUMBEK, the capital of the district of Rol, was first occupied
from Gabba Shambé by Alfonse de Malzac, an attaché to the
French Consulate in Khartim, and a slave-dealer of repute.

AN UNCOMFORTABLE STATION. 333

It received its name from that of the chief of the district.
After Malzac's * death it was purchased by Binder, a Transyl-
vanian, and subsequently passed through the hands of Halil
Shami, Tohami, @Ghattas, until finally it became the property
of the Government, whose authority, however, up till the time
of my arrival has ouly been a nominal one. - This place,
originally erected for elephant hunting, became after the lapse
of years the centre of the settlement in this district, and the
starting-place for the caravans vid Amadi to Monbuttu; it
was also the collecting-place for the ivory, both white and
black, obtained by these caravans; and lastly, it provided an
asylum and free quarters for all idlers and scamps from the
various Danagla settlements throughout the Sudan. Its rise
was facilitated by the dense neighbouring population and the
luxuriant corn-fields. At the present time the station has a
very uncomfortable look, owing to the former attempt to con-
struct a moat round the station, and the numerous trenches
in the yellow clayey soil, from which clay has been taken to
plaster the walls of the huts and to form the floors of the
platforms. - Besides this, wells were constructed by means of
a row of deep holes, which the rain during the kAarif has
deepened in some parts and destroyed in others, so that you
can now almost imagine that you have come upon a colony
where gold-diggers have been at work. In the midst of this
chaos of trenches, mounds, and pools, the station buildings
form a kind of island. - They consist of a motley group of huts
built upon platforms, the irregular arrangement of which defies
all description. Paths about a foot broad, and covered by
every kind of filth, lead through this confusion; and as the
spaces underneath the platforms are occupied by crowds of
slaves, who live after their own manner, the stench and dirt are
prodigiously increased. Hardly any one has thought of fencing
in his house, so that every one can see into his neighbour's
dwelling, and if any one quarrels with his concubine every one
in the station can see and hear. In one corner a kind of

* M. Alfonse de Malzac died at Khartum in April 1881. Lejean (" Les Deux
Nils," pp. 19, 77, 99) calls him a monster of iniquity, but a good botanist ; Heuglin
(Petermann and Hassenstein's "Inner Afrika," p. 99) refers to him as "a slave-
hunter of the worst type."

Jie RUMBEK.
garden is situated, the trees of which-dates, lemons, and
pomegranates-planted by Malzac, were half withered, owing to
want of pruning and water. Water is very scarce; it is ob-
tained from deep wells, and has a dirty colour and a nauseously
earthy taste. The whole situation of the station so far from
all water is a great mistake, and its formation into a central
station can only be explained by its convenience for the slave-
trade. In one day I set free and sent home 165 Monbuttu,
of whom 41 were taken from the hut of the chief of this
district, a certain Mula Effendi, of course a Dongolaui, and
400 Agar, Kich, and Atwot (Atot) slaves; these numbers are
proof sufficient of the state of matters. In Rumbék there is
no lack of places for prayers, decorated by white flags, and
still less of fakis.

The Agar, who live round the station, are a curious people,
and although a good deal has already been written concerning
the Dinka, of which they are a division, it may not be out
of place to devote a few words to them. They are polite
and complimentary to excess, and so self-conscious that not
one of them would ever eat with a Mittu. Although the
Khartim settlement has existed here for more than twenty
years, it is almost impossible to procure any porters from them.
They still possess a considerable quantity of cattle, notwith-
standing the numerous raids and thefts to which they have
been subjected. - Nlavery has, however, been introduced among
them, and with it the demoralising use of brandy, that distilled
from dokhn, which is very strong, and contains much fusel-
oil, being accorded the preference. These are the results of
the civilisation introduced by the twenty years' residence of
the Danagla amongst them.

In their habits and customs the Agar have remained com-
pletely unaffected. The girls go about nude until they marry;,
even if this event does not happen for many a long year.
Whoever touches the breast of an unmarried girl must pay the
usual cows and marry her ; if he refuses to marry her, he must
at any rate pay the cows, and she must wait for a husband,
who can obtain her at a smaller valuation. At the time when
cattle were very numerous in this country, the price for a
good-looking girl was fifty or sixty cows ; now eight or ten

AGAR CUSTOMS. 587

are sufficient, and if the people are poor, double the number of
sheep and goats will suffice. Rich people will only give their
daughters in marriage to men who possess cattle, and so they
form a kind of clan, bound together both by relationship and
similarity of interests, to aid each other in case of any attack.

If a man wishes to marry, he speaks in the first place to
the father of his choice, and after a long discussion, at which all
the relations of the bride, from the grandfather to the female
cousins, take part, the price which is first asked-a hundred
cows-(I speak of well-to-do people) is at last reduced to
about forty, of which each of the relations receives a share.
As soon as the price has been paid, the male relations of
the bridegroom ornament themselves with aprons of leopard
skins, all kinds of fantastic head-dresses, and weapons, and
accompany the well-anointed bride, with song and dance, from
her father's hut to that of the bridegroom, where a feast is
held, for which the bridegroom provides an ox and the neces-
sary beverages. The next day the bride's father gives a
feast, on which occasion, as an act of generosity, he usually
returns ten of the cows paid by the bridegroom for the
bride.

The Agar never permit the girls of their tribe to marry into
another tribe, but they themselves sometimes marry Mittu,
Sofi, and Beli girls, who can be obtained rather cheaply in
exchange for iron shovels or goats. It often happens that a
young man who is too poor to provide the requisite number of
cattle agrees with a girl to elope. If, however, they do so,
they are obliged to hide themselves carefully, for should they
be caught by their relations, the man, unless by any means he
manages to ransom himself, would be immediately killed, and the
girl taken back into her father's house, to be subsequently sold
at a diminished value. As a rule, however, matters are arranged
by the relations on either side to their mutual satisfaction. Re-
pudiation on account of sterility occurs but rarely, and in such
a case half the cattle paid for the girl has to be returned. _ It
is more common on account of adultery, in which case the guilty
party is condemned to death or to the repayment of eight
cows. - Every woman has the right, should she be repudiated,

to take all her children with her, and to take a milch cow for
¥

438 RUMEEK.

the support of each child. - Men, however, who are rich and
influential enough to set-aside this custom often retain the
children. If sons have been taken away by the mother, they
may, if they choose, return to their father as soon as they are
grown up; the girls, however, remain unconditionally with the
mother, who, if she marries again, takes them to her new husband.

Births are not specially celebrated, and there are no cere-
monies of purification employed. Twins bring misfortune, and
require the sacrifice of a goat. At the birth of twins the
people rejoice if one of them dies, as that is supposed to
prevent misfortune visiting the parents. - Special names for
twins do not exist. The navel-cord of a newly born child is
divided by seven sharp straw splinters, and a few drops of the
blood are placed upon the mother's tongue, in order that, should
she later on use hard words against her child, they may have
no evil effects. - The father may get angry and curse his children
if he likes-his words have no power of producing evil.

The murder of a man must be atoned for by a fine of thirty
cows; that of a woman by forty cows. After a death, the
body is washed, shaved, rubbed with oil, and then put into
a circular hole in a squatting position, with the hands drawn
up to cover the mouth, all ornaments having been taken off.
A cow-hide is spread over the corpse, and the hole is filled up
with earth. - If the deceased was a rich man, a cow-hide is also
placed under his body, and an ox is killed, generally a diseased
one, and eaten by the relatives. The nearest relations shave
the head as a sign of grief. For six or seven days the deceased's
hut and those of his family are considered unclean, and avoided
by all but those who live in them ; the neighbours do not even
fetch fire from them.

The men do not wear any clothing, but have the following
ornaments :-small aprons of brightly coloured skins, which
are only used on festive occasions, head-dresses made out of
skeins of wool, ostrich feathers, and straw caps with Galago
skins. 'The bracelets are of ivory or jron, which the Agar
work, but more commonly barter from the Mittu and Bongo.
The women are enveloped in large skin aprons, often beauti-
fully ornamented with beads. The tribal marks of the Agar
and Atwot are four scars running parallel across the forehead,

TAME SERPENTsS. 339

Pel

as well as the removal of the four lower incisor teeth and the
two canines. f

The Agar are armed with two or three long, very broad-
bladed spears, which have no barbs, heavy throwing sticks or
clubs, and a large buffalo-hide shield. The Atwot is the only
Dinka tribe that uses arrows. - Formerly in hunting elephants
the people only used the spear; now, however, pitfalls are em-
ployed, as well as weighted spears hung to the branches of
trees, as is customary in the south.

The articles of luxury employed are, in addition to brandy,
the usual mrisse and a drink named wm bilbil, which occupies
a position between brandy and beer; also tobacco, which is
carried in small packets hung on the arm, and chewed. Plugs
of tobacco are carried behind the right ear.

Dr. Schweinfurth has already mentioned the many small
snakes which inhabit the straw roofs of the Dinka huts, and
which generally live on very friendly terms with the master
of the house. The great Python africanus is very common in
the whole of the Agar district, and one of these fine snakes
may be often seen as a privileged inmate in the huts of this
tribe. It is the women especially who form friendship
with them; they sometimes rub them with fat, and even
pour small quantities of fat down their throats. The Agar
chiefs told me that the snakes are so much at home that
they will never think of touching a goat or a sheep belonging
to the people with whom they live, even if they are very hungry,
but will go hunting far off into the forest, where they some-
times pay their friends a visit, and are always welcomed.

Of the various Dinka tribes, the Nuér and the Atwot speak
the same language, which differs considerably from the true
Dinka; whereas, on the other hand, the Rék, Mok, Gok,
Agar, Alwaj, Elyab, Kich, and Bor speak exactly the same
idiom.

In this family a very peculiar and isolated position, like
that of a pariah caste, is occupied by the so-called Derr, people
of a very dark skin, of middle size, and well-set bodies, who
wander through the dry land between the Kich and Elyab,
sometimes associating with them, sometimes with the Atwot.
They are hunters, possessing no settled dwellings or villages,

$10 RUMBEK.

but living upon the produce of the chase, or at times working
as smiths amongst the tribes just mentioned, whose villages
and huts they are otherwise not allowed to enter. If their
position is remarkable, their habits appear to be more so.
Scorpions and snakes living in dry places are larger and more
poisonous than those found in moist depressions, with the
single exception of the python. It is said that in the dis-
tricts frequented by the Derr there exist exceedingly poison-
ous snakes of a reddish-brown colour, and about three feet
in length, but the people know how to catch them. - Having
secured them by stratagem, they enclose a pool of water by
a strong thorn fence, so arranged that the game coming to
drink is obliged to pass through a narrow lane. The snakes,
having had a hole bored through their tails, are fastened at
the spot where the lane opens upon the water, and they not
unnaturally bite the animals which attempt to pass. In this
way two and three antelopes are caught in a day, the flesh
being used as food by the hunters, and the skins employed
to purchase wives.

The Agar are very superstitious. They not only believe in
~ all sorts of evil spirits dwelling in the forest-good spirits are
never believed in by a Negro-but they also look upon certain
animals, such as the owl, the Galago, and especially the jackal,
as harbingers of ill, who have to be carefully observed. - One of
the good qualities of the Agar, apart from their politeness and
abstention from begging, is their cleanliness, which not only
extends to their persons and food, but also to their villages ;
for, in contradistinction to other Negro villages, all the lanes
between their huts are clean and free from odours.

GRASS FIRES. 341

6. THrovan THE TERrrItory or THE GOK to THE River Rok
AFD BACK To THE River Yano.

BUTTER-TREES-GRASS-FIRES-THE JOT-THE RIVER ROA AND ITS FLOODS
-LANXG IN GOK-IRON-SMELTERS-A COMMON HUNTING-GROUND-THE
BELI-AN UNCANNY SHRUB-AN EVENINGS PASTIME-A FERTILE
REGION-HUNTING TROPHIES-ARRIVAL AT GUERI

A BroAD grassy steppe stretched far away when we had left
the corn-fields of Rumbek ; it was bare of wood, but for some
distance abounded in fine butter-trees (Bassias), which had
been spared for the sake of the fruits and the fat which they
yield. The Agar, as all other Dinka tribes, call this tree arak,
to the Bari it is known as kw@nurt, and to the Arabs as Zulu.
In the Bari country, however, another butter-tree, the kuruleng
(Stereospermum) is more common and more widely used. - The
" butter" of the Bassia is a fat of a reddish-white colour and
of firm consistency, whatever the temperature may be. When
fresh, its smell is not unpleasant, but cooked it has a burnt
flavour, which does not suit everybody. This fat, however,
might very profitably be employed in the manufacture of soap.
The country hereabout, with its solitary trees and scattered
pile-dwellings, has a very different aspect from the countries in
the south. - Possibly it is a country where one may live better,
but the south is certainly more beautiful.

Adol, a well sunk in whitish-grey loam, contained only a little
bad water; but the ripe, sweet fruits of the jogan (Diospyros
mespiliformis, called chum by the Agar) afforded our porters a
welcome opportunity for a halt. Leaving this well, we were
compelled to march between two lines of fire, the people having
set fire to the grass on both sides of our road. Crowds of
birds engaged in hunting insects were hovering over the
tongues of flame, whilst Balearic cranes and marabou storks,
similarly occupied, were stalking over the burnt ground. When
we passed out of this scorching heat we entered upon a depres-
sion which, although dry at the time, is evidently often flooded,
and then forms a swamp called Aber, which drains to the
north,. - As we were unable to find any water here, and digging

342 GOK TERRITORY TO RIVERS ROA AND YALO.

a well would have taken up too much of our time, we continued
our march without making a halt.

At this spot the Mellan district, inhabited by the Beli divi-
sion of the Mittu, is wedged in between the territories of the
Dinka. - On Junker's map the Mittu are called Beli and
Balma. - Balma, however, or rather Balima, means " my friend "
in the Beli language, and the Danagla, when they first came
to this country, heard this word so frequently that they applied
it to the whole tribe. Just in the same way the Bari became
known as Gillio or Yulio, which also means " my friend."

Strange to say, we encountered numerous coveys of rock-
fowls (Ptilopachys) in the steppe-woods of the Béli country,
although these birds ordinarily inhabit only stony regions.
The boundary between the Beli and the Gok, a Dinka tribe, is
formed by a small Anogeissus wood, beyond which we entered
Fedwin, a district of the Gok.

The kAor in front of us floods its banks to a distance of
three-quarters of an hour's march on either side. I noticed
that many loam walls had been erected for catching fish.
Khor Gulmar, where we camped for the night after an exceed-
ingly hot march, has also a very broad swampy bed; the
stream flows slowly to the north, and contains excellent cold
water. In the rainy season this kor is sometimes very diffi-
cult to ford, and it sends a large quantity of water into the
sandy flats of the Nur district, in which it is said to lose
itself. - Even in the driest season large basins containing clear,
good water are always to be found. Fannegai adjoins the
district of Fedwin; it has a rather moist soil, and a corre-
spondingly luxuriant vegetation. Acacias, strange to say, are
totally wanting in this district, but dolébs are very common.

The districts of the Gok are smaller even than those of the
Agar; we therefore arrived at an early hour at the station of
Jot, the chief village of the district of the same name, which is
generally, however, called Zeriba Mulchtar, after the commander
of the station. It forms the frontier post towards the Bahr-
el-Ghazal district. The Gok have the same tribal mark as the
Atwot, viz., several sears radiating from the glabella, and their
language, customs, and arms are exactly like those of their
Dinka brothers. They are celebrated as the best and bravest

A NIGHT MARCH. 343

of Dinka warriors, and it is said that one Gok can drive ten
Agar before him; they therefore call the Agfr, in scorn,
Tirem (useless.) The Dinka are the only Negroes in our pro-
vince among whom women are allowed to milk the cows. The
clean sertbas of the few Danagla settled here are surrounded
by high stockades made of split bamboo, over which there
climbs a white flowering, strongly smelling bean, which has
been introduced from Khartuim. Two kinds of large gourds
are grown in the corn-fields, of a different species from those seen
in the south ; the one is round, the other four-cornered, with
a reddish sweet pulp. The people here (Danagla) appear to
live on a good footing with the surrounding natives, to judge
from the fact that as soon as we requested porters they
immediately appeared ; so we were able to utilise a moonlight
night to cross the waterless stretch which lay before us. Al-
though such night marches are pleasant on account of the cool
air, they are usually followed by fever, especially if several
night marches are made one after the other. Therefore, people
who are strangers to the country will do well to use caution.

Throughout the district of Jot, into that of Ayell as far as
the borders of the river Rod, there stretches a plain, broken
here and there by beautiful thickets. Two hours and a half
were occupied in passing over the ground, which in parts was
flooded by the river. Numerous mushroom-shaped structures
made by the termites gave to the country a very peculiar
appearance; sometimes whole groups of them were seen. As
we approached the river, the road turned sharply to the north,
and was bordered by a wide expanse of grass. On the ruins
of a cattle zeribe, called Abiai, I noticed flocks of lively
plovers tumbling about, and heard the shrill notes of a flock
of Senegal magpies and the call of the white-headed osprey.
Masses of empty shells covered the muddy ground, over which
we could only march slowly, reaching, after five hours and a
half, the west bank of the river, where we obtained a well-
earned rest.

We camped upon the steep greyish-yellow loam bank of the
river, about ten feet above the level of the water. The eastern
bank slopes more gently ; the bed of the river is sixty-five
feet broad, and the water even now reached to the necks of

344 GOK. TERRITORY TO RIVERS ROA AND yYALO.

the tall Dinka. When the river is flooded, the district on
either side is covered for a long distance by water, so that at
such times the ford would present great difficulties. The river
is feared on account of its vicious crocodiles. The number of
oysters (Etheria) in it compelled us to cross with care in
order to avoid their beds.

The district of Abredl begins at the river ; it is inhabited
_ by Gok, and not by Bongo. It is a park-like district, in the
middle of which is the station of Lang (the Dinka name for
Zizyphus), which is generally called by the natives CGok-el-
Hassan, after its chief. This is the old well-known robber
nest Sherifi, as Dr. Schweinfurth calls it, and although Sherif
Babekr and Sherif Osman were long ago killed by Abd-es
Samat's famous trumpeter, Ingeleri, they took care to leave
numerous heirs. Danagla zertbas stretch far and wide over
the country, surrounded by the crops of the Bongo, who have
settled here, but who, although living amongst the Dinka,
preserve their nationality intact. As I only remained one
day in this station, and as my time was fully occupied by
official duties, I had, of course, little time to investigate the
state of affairs here, but the Danagla appeared to be little
pleased at my arrival, and held prayer-meetings to hasten my
departure.

Very much against the wish of Musa Bey, a very energetic
official, we marched next day, and after again fording the
river, which had slightly fallen, we returned over the old
slippery road to Abiai. From there we marched along the
road towards Jot, and leaving the road that leads direct to
Rumbeék to our left, our path led over open plains covered
with thickets and strewn with iron nodules. This cireum-
stance showed that the country was rising. To the right,
a sea of grass stretched out for a long distance, occasional
large swamps intervening. This grassy expanse extends as
far as the river, forming a refuge for numerous hippopotami
and herds of antelopes, and in the dry season, after the grass
has been burnt, it is the scene of great hunts.

After a short rest we continued our monotonous march.
Now and then our road was bordered by swamp, but it
led mostly through light wood, and then through extensive

ENTER THE BELL COUNTRY. 343

corn-fields, in which were situated the curious pile-dwellings
of the Dinka. - Balearic cranes were very numerous here, as
also the bulbul (Pyemonotus miloticus), whose flute-like song I
always like to hear. The corn was still ripening ; the process
occupies eight full months. The dokhn, however, was just being
reaped. Numerous baskets for fowls lay about everywhere,
for now all over the Dinka country the breeding of fowls
flourishes, as the people can always find a ready market for
them at the stations. The Dinka consider it so objectionable to
eat fowls or eggs, that whoever did so would go courting in vain.
Alel Kuimba (the Kuimba's smelting furnace) is situated at
the edge of the swamp, and is a much-frequented camping-
place. Many fish belonging to the genus Clarias were found
in the swamp.

A good hour's march led us through corn-fields wet with
dew to the boundary of the Dinka district, the last village of
which, Jombi, belongs to the Ayell district of Gok, and was
passed not far from Kuimba's. We left here the grey sticky
loam of the lowlands and entered upon the red ferruginous clay
which covers the Beli district of the Mittu tribe. The unin-
habited borderland, Loba, consists of a wide grass steppe, and
is frequented as a common hunting-ground. I noticed here a
great ironstone ledge, which formed a kind of step in the midst
of a plain; at its foot several Amomums were growing, the
only ones which I have seen in this district A large pool of
water called Debber was covered with geese, which provided
us with welcome food, as for many days we had passed
through a devastated country where meat was unobtainable.
From this point the soil was rather drier ; it presented a perfect
sea of grass. We passed by a deserted iron-smelting place,
where we saw the remains of its neatly constructed furnaces.
We next reached Khor Lila, in the district of Mér. This
swampy kAor is completely shut in by vegetation; it contains
water throughout the whole year, and is said to be identical
with Khor Gulmar, upon which we camped when travelling
from Rumbek to Jot. From midnight there had been thunder
and lightning, but fortunately the rain kept off until the early
morning, when all our goods were packed for the march,. We
then resumed our journey, marching almost parallel to the

346 COK TO RIVERS ROA AND ¥ALO.

khor, and passing many small camps erected by the numerous
fishers. I saw dams and weirs in the kAor-bed to stem the
current, showing that the people are keen fishermen, and the
numerous pitfalls in the high grass indicated their love of hunt-
ing. Leaving the khor, the soil became again stony, and steppe-
wood took the place of the high grass. Then followed small
villages surrounded by fields ; they were especially numerous in
the district of Mabongo.

No platforms were to be seen in this district ; the small huts
of the Mittu, which stand upon the ground, very much resemble
birds' nests. I also noticed here lounge-benches such as are
common among the southern tribes. - 'The small tobacco planta-
tions were hedged round. 'The tribal marks of the Beli are
scars radiating from the glabella over the forehead, and the
extraction of the four lower incisors. 'The men have their
upper lips, and the women both lips, bored ; they wear in
them large quartz balls or plates, or pieces of wood ornamented
by brass nails. The hair is twisted into locks, each lock being
drawn through a plate of iron, and these plates almost com-
pletely cover the head. Khor Lila forms the boundary here
between the Agar and the Beli, but several Beli villages have
been erected across the kor, for the Beli are very fruitfal,
and if it were not for the slave-trade, they would soon com-
pletely fill the country. Beyond Nyang, where, as in all the
villages of this district, the people obtain their water from wells,
grass steppe, light woods, and beautiful groups of bamboo in-
termingle, and numerous butter-trees form a striking feature
in the landscape. A large depression filled with water and
frequented by many water-birds is situated at the entrance of
the village of Mabongo, which gives its name to the district.

Our small station bears the same name. It is occupied by
a single Dongolaui, who rules like a sultan ; his huts stand
in a large bamboo enclosure, and his immense corn magazine,
which is erected upon a platform, held already enough corn to
supply Ladd for four or five months, and the harvest is not yet
gathered in! - What a shame it is!

A pool named Mangillihi marked the spot where we entered
the district of Jer; there were many butter-trees near (called
by the Beli, as well as tall tamarinds, together forming

AN UNCANNY PLANT. 347

the chief beauty of the landscape. - The rich green foliage of
the indiarubber creeper (called here bi/l@), with its white
bunches of blossoms and its strong but pleasant perfume,
abounds in the Mittu country, and is very beautiful. - Sanse-
viera (foi) also grows there, but the most curious form I
noticed was a plant much like a euphorbia, about three feet
high, with a grey stem about two and a half inches thick,
which had at its upper end six to eight short thick branches ;
these, as well as the stem, had an immense number of scars
where the leaves were inserted, and beneath each sear a short
sharp thorn, which gave to the plant, at this time without
leaves or flowers, a stumpy, prickly, uncanny appearance.
It grows in groups of two or three, and its character appears
to resemble its looks, for the natives, who call the plant Atbbota,
say that if buffaloes knock their heads against it, they are
blinded by the juice and their heads swell. The people take
good care, therefore, to avoid it.

Khor Maholu, which delivers a considerable quantity of
water into Khor Lila during the kari, was at this time only
a large pond. Its water is used by the people living in the
scattered zeribas belonging to the village of Magulu. Where
the corn-fields which surround these zerthas end, park-like plains
abounding in high trees, or broad bare flats of ferruginous clay,
covered with scanty moss-like turf and many small termite
hills, are noticed. The wells of Karaibote are circular basins
sunk into the hard clay soil; they contain dirty water and
water-lilies. - Worms of all kinds are found in them, and they
are the breeding-places of the Ferentit (Filaria medinensis,
Guinea worm), which is so abundant in this district. - Hundreds
of swifts flew over the small doléb plantation near the village
of Imudi, which lay hidden in the midst of bamboo thickets.
The latter extended to the corn-fields of the village of Bauru,
where we camped. '

Our porters, with their " buttoned " upper lips and the
glittering knives stuck behind in their girdles, were a merry
set, always ready to sing and dance. Hardly had they laid .
down their loads, when they formed a large circle for con-
versation, their naked and very ugly wives joining in quite
freely. I noticed here an exceedingly curious custom. One

ys - GOK TERRITORY To MYERS RoX axp vYaLo.

evening, when all had assembled for an evening entertainment,
the villagers seated themselves in a group, surrounded by our
porters, and began to sing a chorus. -All of a sudden one of
them sprang out of their midst and began to load my porters
with opprobrium, notwithstanding that they belonged to their
own tribe. This very insolent attack, which was interspersed
with all kinds of very low jokes, was given in the quickest
time, and accompanied by the clapping of sticks and the shrill
trills of the women. - Our porters appeared to take the whole
affair in good part, and laughed at the jokes and the obscenities
quite heartily. - When at last the singer was tired and stopped,
one of the company seized a green durrah-stalk and began to
beat him on the back, as a sign of the greatest satisfaction
and appreciation. - Our people then took their turn in the
performance, and after they had returned the compliments in
the same manner, the others commenced a perfect wildfire of
the most horrible invectives against their friends and com-
patriots, who only laughed, and apparently had no cause for
displeasure. As soon as one party was tired, the other party
took up the song, and this amusement continued until far
into the night. Such scenes often occur between the inha-
bitants of different villages, at a place which has been pre-
viously determined upon, and all parties appear to greatly
enjoy the fun.

The country which joins Bauru is covered with red ferru-
ginous clay and intersected by many rain-gutters, along which
bulbous plants abound. - The country is beautiful and well
cultivated. Village follows village, only separated from one
another by corn-fields, thickets of bamboo, and sometimes
small stretches of park-land. Grass steppe proper is first
noticed again on the borders of Gumro, where broad depres-
sions favour the growth of grass. - Passing through the corn-
fields of the village of Dubre, in which were great numbers of
shrieking parrots, we arrived at a small swampy AkAor called
Chongo about here, but known farther north as Gulmar and
Lila. Notwithstanding the existence of a number of pools
of standing water among the high reeds, we were almost
able to cross the /or with dry feet. In good time we reached
the small station of Lobaledé, which is situated on the eastern

~A HUNTERS TRIUMPH. 349

bank of the AAor, and is usually known by the name of its
overseer, Rahmet Allah, who occupies it with about ten to
fifteen armed slaves. Just at the entrance to his zeribe were
several neatly carved poles, each separating into two branches,
which were tipped with buffalo horns.

In the Beli district it is customary, as soon as a young man
has killed a buffalo, an elephant, a lion, or a leopard, for his
nearest relations to give a dance, at which the mother of the
successful hunter dances in a perfectly nude condition. - " I
gave birth to this hunter," she cries to her audience, whilst
her son, stretching forth his right arm, seems to impress
upon the spectators that it is not advisable to come too near
it. The people then erect a post before the village, and
decorate it with the skull or horns of the slain animal, so
that every stranger visiting the place may ask the name of
the brave hunter. In all the villages are carved poles on
which to hang the great drum, and withered trees upon which
trophies of the chase, such as the skulls of antelopes, are
fastened ; also bow-shaped traps used in hunting game.

This station is celebrated for the splendid ice-cold water
which is found in the Aor. A lion had done us the favour
of killing a buffalo and then permitting itself to be driven off,
and an elephant had been killed in the morning, so that there
was meat for every one. - When we left, however, next morn-
ing all that remained of the buffalo was its splintered bones,

After passing through the corn-fields of Lobaledé, and
then through brushwood and over a savannah, we crossed
several small swampy streams which flow into the Chongo,
and then rested in an Anogeissus wood in the district of Lori.
We next passed through deserted fields and large plantations
of Hibiscus sabdariffa, as far as a broad swamp named Mabollo,
upon the other side of which, under the shade of high tama-
rinds, was a well containing very good water. Our guides,
however, had arranged to halt at the Dokurru wells, which
contain bad water, and were disappointed at being compelled
to march farther on in the blazing sun, although we reached
the Lulunyi swamp shortly after midday, and halted there. A
low chain of hills running from east to south lay before us,
shutting out all view. - Late at night we received a visit from

go - GOK TERRITORY TO RIVERS ROA AND YaLo.
several Negro chiefs, who brought with them small gifts of
meal, ground-nuts, round dumplings made of darrah meal, and
pots containing very uninviting soup.

After a good hour's march over the hills in splendid star-
light, we reached the little villages of Karro and Koyo, which
join one another. We soon left them behind and passed over
a broad Xkkor-bed, containing only a few pools of water; then
on through steppe-wood, where the blossoms of small gar-
denias filled the air with their perfume. The district we had
just passed through was rendered especially charming by the
presence of small woods of tall trees, chiefly Humboldtias, with
slender tall trunks, and a few Bassias growing in groups of
two or three. I have never seen woods formed of the Bassia
except far to the south-east, upon the road leading to Fajulli.
Heaps of stones by the side of the road, upon which were
placed the two-horned posts I have just mentioned, marked
the spots where the inhabitants of two neighbouring villages
were accustomed to meet together to abuse each other, i.e., to
enjoy themselves.

Passing by a small pool called Domebra, we came in sight
of lofty Jebel Gurken, which we kept in front until we reached
the station of Guéri, which is situated on Khor Yalo, not far
distant, I was informed, from its confluence with the Uoko or
Ombolokko. The Yalo, which makes a bend at four minutes'
distance from the zertba, is eighty-seven feet broad, and was
at this time two to three feet deep. It is enclosed by steep
banks about eleven feet high. The stream is often bank fall,
but does not overflow here; on one side of it large blocks of
kidney-shaped ironstone crop out. Numbers of herons and
storks were busily engaged in fishing. Buffaloes are numerous
in this country.

SESAME AND DOKHX. 3531

7. Ins Lon: CoU®TRY Axp tHs UprER YaLO As FAr As
SavyaAapix. f

A FRUITFUL REGION-GRASS-FIRES-LOST IN THE BUSH-A CONCERT OF
LIONS AND DONKEYS-AN AFRICAN GARDEN-PARROTS-THE RIVER
YALO.

From Guéri we had to march to Sayadin (the " hunter's
village "), and in so doing we first passed through the large and
numerous villages in the districts of Guéri and Koddu, which
were nearly all enclosed in high thorn fences. Helmia and
sweet potatoes were cultivated everywhere; the scaffoldings
which are used for drying sesame were heavily laden, and
specially constructed structures had been raised for the dolthn,
which had just been reaped, and was about to be exposed to
the sun before being thrashed. - Khor Ombolokko, after having
received a number of small watercourses, flows into the Yalo,
and, like all its tributaries, overflows its banks for a consider-
able distance. In the AkAharif it forms a difficult swamp. Its
bed is about thirteen feet broad, but when we passed it the
stream was only seven feet across and ten inches deep, and
contained yellowish loam-coloured water. - Whereas the bank
on this side of the AAor slopes gently, the other is high, and
does not permit the water to overflow.

I shall long remember the march from the Ombolokko to
Khor Merbu. One of my men had incautiously thrown a
light into the withered grass during our halt; the flames
immediately blazed up, and, being driven by the north wind,
followed at our heels. At such times it is necessary to bring
into play all the composure and experience learnt by a long
life in the tropics in order to bear with calmness the threatened
destruction of valuable notes and collections. - Fortunately the
broad belt of damp grass at the kAor broke the force of the fire,
and at the second ford of the winding Merbu, a deep swampy
khor, we were able to rest after racing before the flames.

The path we were following had for a long time only been
used by natives, so that it was very difficult to find, for in
many places it was overgrown with grass. - Our guide therefore,

383 LORL COUNTRY. AND UPPER Y ALO.

instead of keeping to the south-south-east, turned to the east,
probably with the intention of reaching the road which leads
direct from Mvyolo to Sayadin, and soon led us into the middle of-
a dense bush. -We were therefore compelled to halt under the.
blazing midday sun to reconnoitre. About a quarter of an hour
to the south-south-west of our halting-place we found a pitfall,
near which the footprints showed us that game had recently
been caught here and carried away. We therefore followed the
footprints on the dry soil, which was a difficult matter, and
in about half an hour we reached the small village of Mbaro,
where we received a good reception and found good water.
Part of an antelope was also offered us, and readily accepted.

All the lions in this district appear to serenade Mhbaro at
night, for their howls lasted till dawn. Each howl produced
a prolonged "he-aw " from two donkeys which had been brought
with us for the use of invalids; under these circumstances
sleeping was not easy, so, although the morning was very
cold, we were glad to break camp. 'The march through the
park-like Lori district, with its small woods and numerous
streams, was more like a pleasant walk, especially as, after we
had passed the village of Rango, the country was studded by
picturesque groups of rock. Jebel Madiri, a small gneiss hill,
looked really like .a mountain, rising as it does from broad
grass steppe. - Behind it we noticed the Mdilo hills trending .
towards the south. I saw a Hyptis in the fields; it is here
called kollo, and its fruit was just ripening.. 'The soil is
splendidly cultivated, and on account of thickets and tall
trees, which had been left standing, the country looked like
a garden, in the midst of which were situated the clean well-
kept zeribas of the village of Mbelle.

This village is almost joined by that of Lori (marked Tori
on the maps), the residence of the Lori chief, Sei. It is formed
of a large group of huts surrounding an open space. - The stores
of ground-nuts are here protected from the ravages of mice
in large baskets plastered with clay and placed upon stone
pedestals. In addition to durrah, dokhn, and Hyptis, much
tobacco, cotton with white seeds, and hibiscus are cultivated..
After passing the village the ground commences to fall. It,
is composed of the dark red ferruginous soil which is so_

AFRICAN .PARROTS, $35

characteristic of the south; in all depressions it is covered by
a thick layer of black detritus. The corn-fields are inhabited
by numerous parrots, which are seen in companies of from two
to six, and are not at all wild.

In the whole of our province I only know of three species
of parrot-the Paleornis torquata, which is widely distri-
buted, and called by the Arabs durraA, or more commonly sifte
dudu ; the Pionias Meyerii, which is also common ; and, farther
south, the elegant Agapornis pullaria, which plays great havoc
with the corn-fields. In the -extreme south the well-known
grey parrot, Psiftacus erythacus, is also met with.

All of a sudden, a very conspicuous mountain mass, situated
in the middle of the steppe-wood, came into sight. Its centre
rose higher than Jebel Nyerkani, near Lado; at each end it
had long spurs; the Negroes called it Jebel Tobe. - After
passing Khor Deluru, we left the beaten path and struck
through the wood, until we at last found a good road, which
led us straight to the banks of Khor Yalo, here a beautiful
stream, which shoots with a roar over the rocks filling its bed,
and is fringed by forests. It was a hundred and sixty-five feet
broad and thirty inches deep. - Many small streams flowed
across our road into the river; one of them, Khor Lau, was
edged by incipient " gallery " woods. Khor Ofo is noteworthy
on account of the flats on its northern bank. Rather broad
white belts of gneiss were noticed in the red soil as far as
Chief Ritku's village, Mbaro, which lay at about ten minutes'
distance from our path. Many hyzenas howled in the grass,
but were cautious enough to keep out of our way. - For a few
moments a somewhat lofty range of mountains came into sight ;
my guide called it Dokolo, but I cannot find it marked upon
any map. From the village of Kyéro, where we halted, we
obtained a good view of the mountain ; it is not seen, however,
from the station of Sayadin, which has been newly built in
the middle of a wood. This village is a small place, situated
on the bank of Yalo, and is a centre where game of every kind,
especially elephants, is found, and a large quantity of ivory can
be obtained.

3534 RETURN MARCH TO LADGO.

8. REturN March To Labo.

" NORTHERS " - STEPPE - FIRES-A CHIMPANZEE - FEEDING ELEPHANTS-
GREAT THIRST-A DANAGLA VISITATION-KEDERG HUNTING TROPHIES
AND GRAYES-A BATH IN THE ITO-BACK AT KEDIBA.

ORIGINALLY we had intended to proceed by the direct route
to Kabayéndi, but letters from Amadi compelled us, to re-
linquish this plan. Proceeding in a northerly direction, we
reached the Yalo after an hour's march, at a spot where an
island divides the river into two arms. Its depth varied
between five and seven feet, but ledges of rock enabled us to
cross with ease. Splendid date-palms, quite as fine as those
seen in the southern ornamented its banks. - Broad
belts of humid grass enclosed the many hilly undulations, and
provided pasturage to herds of elephants. We frequently
passed groups of rocks and masses of gneiss, but none of them
afforded a prospect. - Crossing Khor Ojo, we entered the Mort
country, or rather that part of it which is called Mort-Madi
on existing maps. - Mori-Madi, however, is a pleonasm, for
Madi is merely the name given to the Mort by the Lori, and
is an appellation rejected by that tribe.

Marching at this time of the year is rather unpleasant, as
strong northerly winds whirl up the vegetable ashes, which
almost blinded us. Proceeding at a fair rate, we soon passed
Jebel Riku, an isolated mountain, and reached Ngunyi, the
inhabitants of which had been frightened by a steppe-fire, which
destroyed their huts and laid waste their fields. Scarcely had
we reached Mollo, when we were compelled to halt, for the
country all round us was ablaze, and the heat most oppressive.
Khor Gullo, fringed by fruit-laden doléb palms, flows past this
village. It had shrunk into an insignificant swamp, crossing
which we made for the hills, which vividly reminded us of the
vicinity of Mvolo, presenting as they did a combination of bare
rocks and palm-trees. As we went on, the country grew more
rocky and desolate, and euphorbias once more made their
appearance. 'The huts of the village of Yere are built in the
Mort and Kedert style, being low, with dome-shaped roofs,

A LIVE CHIMPANZEE. 335

and having walls ingeniously made of bundles of straw, so as
to present a chequered pattern. A lofty mass of gneiss lies
close to the village, and repays an ascent, as many moun-
tains are visible from its summit, the bearings of which had
been taken on former occasions, and among which were Jebel
Oso, Jebel Togodo, the two jagged peaks of Donvu and Jebel
Paya, as also Jebel Riku, which we had long since left behind
us. The grass was ablaze all around, and the dense smoke,
aggravated by a strong northerly wind, made it difficult to
read the compass. Numerous minor peaks peeped out from
the forests round us, and our road led past one of them,
Jebel Taya. A very small village, which we reached about
half-past twelve, afforded welcome rest after a six hours' march
in the scorching sun ; unhappily, the scanty supply of water
obtainable from its wells smelt so badly that, notwithstanding
our great thirst, we took no delight in drinking. Fortunately
Chief Tokkoro's village, Kenyi, or Kenyi masa, lay at a distance
of only twenty minutes' walk. This extensive place abounds
in filth, especially at this time of the year, when many of
its inhabitants are absent, but we were able to obtain a drink
of good water from the river which flows past it. A further
march of twenty-one minutes brought us to the Amadi station,
where we were delighted to find awaiting us a young chim-
panzee, a present from the Monbuttu chief, Mbitima.

During my short stay here I set the station in order, and
distributed the soldiers, who had arrived during my absence,
among the out-stations. - Scarcely an hour remained for taking
bearings to render my former surveys more complete. A
nearly total eclipse of the moon occurred on the 5th of Decem-
ber, and was hailed by the Danagla, as is customary, by
knocking together all their tin pots and shrieking. Letters
from the Meshra-er-Rek, which informed me that the steamer
Bordén might be expected at any moment at Lado, compelled
me to hurry my departure. From these same letters I learnt
the mournful news of the death of Mgr. Comboni.

The Ayi, or Yei, is of considerable width at this place,
and reached up to our knees. Having forded it, we passed
Jebel Merre, where a large herd of elephants was peacefully
feeding, and made straight for the lofty black rock of Killa,

3)

3826 RETURN MARCH TO LADO.

which rose in front of us like a watch-tower. _ Beneath a cliff,
radiating from it, we saw the blackened ruins of the village of
Vari. It was already 1 PM., and we had as yet not found
a drop of water; the guides appeared to be in an uncertain
state of mind, and asserted that no water could be reached
before sunset. We were therefore all the more pleased when
we met a Negro in the midst of the wood, whose sister we had
restored to him at Ayik, and who offered to act as our guide.
And thus, at 3 PM., after a hot and dry march, we reached
the village of Mizani, which lies at the foot of the densely
wooded Jebel U1.

We were now once more in the country. Our
course thus far had been southerly, but we now turned to the
east, in order to reach our old road. Our night's march was
repeatedly disturbed by elephants, but early in the morning
we reached the bed of Khor Arita, which is possibly identical
with Khor Arise. For about ten minutes we marched along
its bed, which abounded in pools of whitish water. Another
burnt village lay in front of us, beneath Jebel Nyangali-it had
been " visited" by Danagla! Jebel Waru is a mass of granite
rising boldly above the red sandy soil to a height of four hun-
dred feet. Its flanks are densely wooded, and, to judge by
the numerous deep, narrow fissures, across which we were
frequently obliged to jump, it must yield an abundant supply
of water. - Khor Labikko was already known to us as a tribu-
tary of the Ito, and was at present quite dry.

The village of Mollo is situated near this kor, in the midst
of corn-fields, I noticed there many trees hung with skulls
and horns. Unfortunately these trophies were obtained only
from dwarf antelopes and beasts of prey, which appear to
abound in the vicinity. From a lofty pole in the centre of
the village the skin of a python fluttered in the wind. The
numerous graves round the village could be recognised by
pyramids formed of slabs of rocks or by huge heaps of stones,
from the centre of which rose a pole, with three notches in its
upper extremity, which was shaped exactly like those which
are seen on the ancient Mohammedan tombstones in Southern
Arabia. I saw occasionally a third form of grave enclosed

* Such is not the case.-E. G. R.

A REFRESHING BATH, 337
by slabs of stone arranged in a circle, so as to support a
larger slab, thus forming a kind of table. 'The care which
the Mittu and Kederi devote to their graves constitutes a
fine trait in the character of these tribes, who differ in this
respect very favourably from the Bari and Dinka.

The ground beyond Mollo presents features which vividly
recall the Makraka road. Broad flats of reddish sand, occa-
sionally quite bare, but more frequently covered with thorn
scrub, alternate with open forests and fine shrubberies, alive
with Nigritea Arnaudi. It was our intention to take a more
southern route, past Jebel Kuryok to Zanga, but our guides
frustrated our plan, and we were obliged to submit. Khor Loa
afforded us at least some drinkable water, but the heat was so
great that even our carriers were glad when we halted, a little
after noon, at Khor Ito. This Ahor, which we now crossed
farther south than previously, is here about fifty feet broad and
forty inches deep, and flows between rocky banks about ten
feet high.

Only African travellers can appreciate what it is to reach a
running stream like this after a six or seven hours' march.
We rested a while under the shade of tall trees, and our carriers
availed themselves of this opportunity to take a refreshing bath.
We then started, and after passing through durrah-fields, arrived
at one of those small zeribas which the Danagla have sown
broad-cast over the country. Our unexpected arrival led to
the precipitate flight of the occupiers, and we thus found our-
selves alone at Berri, with little hope of being able soon to
leave it, when a neighbouring Negro chief unexpectedly put in
an appearance, and promised to furnish us with porters. - This
promise he kept, so that, crossing a thinly wooded, park-like
country, and leaving Jebel Fora close to our left, we reached
Khor Taféri in good time. This khor now presented a per-
fectly dry bed of sand, about a hundred feet wide, but when in
flood it can only be crossed with the aid of a rope-bridge made
of lianas. - Extensive corn-fields separate the village of Kediba
from the khor. - This village we had already visited during the
outward journey, and we now followed our old road from here
to Ladd.

358 BEDEN TO KAKUAK.

9. From Brox, on tur NLE, THROUGH FaAJELG To
KAKUAK.

A WASTED COUNTRY-FAJELG-GUMBIRI-KAKUAK AND ITS MOUNTaAINS-
THB WATERSHED OF THE YEI-GANDA-TRIBAL DIVISIONS OFP THE MAXDI
-AGRICULTURAL PROSPECTS.

Wr left the station of Bedén on the 9th of October, and climbed
the hills which border the western banks of the river. A
broad rolling steppe lay before us, the few existing trees being
almost hidden amongst the yellow grass of the undulating
fields. - Blocks of rock and gneiss and quartz rubble were scat-
tered in all directions, especially near the innumerable rain-
channels which furrowed the country, and which at this season
of the year were almost empty. _ Numerous euphorbia hedges,
always used for the Bari cattle zertbas, were also to be seen,
proving that this district was once well peopled. Smallpox
and famine, caused by failure of the crops and continuous raids
which swept off the enormous cattle herds, have changed this
country from a garden to a desert. It is evident that this
steppe might be used for agricultural purposes, as well as for
pasturage, to judge by the luxuriant growth of durrah, dokhn,
hibiscus, and tobacco which surrounded the few Bari home-
steads we saw on our way. - After passing a gneiss hill, Zindiru,
the trees became rather more numerous. _ Steppe-woods formed
of figs, tamarinds, butter-trees, acacias, Balanites, Zizyphus, and
the very common Dtospyros mespiliform{is intermingled with the
sea of grass. A species of Boswellia forms a distinctive feature
of this region; its foliage, as seen from a distance, has a
reddish hue. It provides a quantity of sweet-smelling gum,
which the Arabs use as incense, and its stems are much valued
for hedges, as it is very tenacious and soon takes root and
blooms afresh.

The village of Mogedo, where we camped for the night, is a
rather large collection of huts, differing in no way from the
usual Bari villages. Chief Rombe promised to provide us
with porters early next morning, but whether due to the Bari's
intense dislike of the duties of porters, or to the fact of this

LOFTY MOUNTAINS. 359

being an almost independent district, his promise was only to
be taken as an empty compliment ; and although the big drums
began at midnight to call the porters together, it was very
late indeed before we were able to resume our march.

After passing between homesteads and extensive durrah-fields,
which had just been sown with this year's second crop, we soon
reached the savannah, and marched on rapidly over a red clayey
soil. Many elephants frequent this grassy region, and enjoy
eating the Balanites and Zizyphus, which are now laden with
fruit. A chain of mountains, called by the natives Rego, lay
before us; in the centre there was a deep depression, to which
we made our way, and which proved to be a defile thickly over-
grown with bamboos; it led us to a narrow pass between the
mountains of Lurja and Boron, which was rendered almost
impassable by thickets of luxuriant vegetation. - While we
climbed with great difficulty through it, I buried the hope of
ever using this road for camels. The aneroid read here 0.35
inch lower than it did in Mogedo, showing that the rise had
been considerable, although it was not very noticeable during
the march. - The district we had passed through must be com-
pletely without water in the winter, for even now, although the
rainy season has not yet come to an end, we had difficulty in
finding drinking-water. During the rains, however, a great
quantity of water must flow from here to the river, for the
ravines through which the watercourses wend their way, as
well as the long, deep channels carved out by the erosive
action of the water, are covered with white, coarse-grained sand
and sharp quartz rubble.

Near to one of these, we entered the district of Fajeltt proper,
inhabited by various divisions of the Bari tribe. 'They are
ruled over by independent chiefs, and only distinguished by a
special dialect from the other Bari. On account of the very
damp soil, a more vigorous growth of vegetation has sprung
up here, and a small wood of Cresalpinias and Kigelias,
heavily laden with fruit, formed a pleasing, peaceful picture.
Along the whole route we only saw two very small doléb
palms. We camped for the night by the pools of Lodafe,
where the porters were rewarded for their exertions by a cow.
It was quickly killed and cut up, and, with plenty of meal,

360 BEDEN TO KAKUAK

it furnished a supper which lasted until four o'clock in the
morning. - Notwithstanding this protracted meal, we marched
early, and soon reached the very steep ascent to the mountain
chain which lay before us. 'The pass was overgrown with
such high grass that no view was possible, but I climbed
up Jebel Kyago, which lay near the road to the right, and
obtained thers a satisfactory view, besides being able to take
a number of bearings by which to work out my map. The
descent from this chain is inconsiderable; it may be best
described as a step to the terrace which rises in the west. A
bamboo wood grew along two small AAors, Hauchu and Lotor-
tioni, both of which flowed through deep ravines. - Broad
stretches of coffee-brown rich humus, black scattered blocks of
rock, the murmur of water clear as crystal, by which ferns and
moss grew luxuriantly, and the cool shade, reminded me of
far-away mountain woods, and if it had not been for the
characteristic vegetation, I could have imagined myself far
from Africa. A long march through high grass and prickly
Randia bushes forcibly recalled the fact that I was still here.
The fields which surrounded the village of Mitika had been
much damaged by locusts, and as the Fajelt only cultivate a
little durrah, they will be badly off for mrisse this year ;-
eleusine forms their staple food.

The rain poured down every day, and not alone by day, but
by night too, so that the soft humus clung like pitch to our
feet. . Chief Fitia, a toothless old fellow, had, notwithstanding
an extra ration of brandy, the greatest difficulty in collecting
porters for us. The drums seem to have become hoarse on
account of the rain, and only gave forth a sorrowful sound.
We had to be content to begin our march after AIM.
The rain accompanied us. Whole stretches of this district
were overgrown by Amomum and aloes. A great number of
small watercourses drained the soil ; notwithstanding this, we
continually came upon swampy depressions between the rows
of hills, their stiff, fetid mud being very unpleasant. I noticed
plants on all sides, such as Solanacese, gourds, and the castor-
oil plant, which indicated old settlements, and we also passed
many hamlets and villages encircled by extensive fields where
eleusine, Hyptis, dokhn, and Lubia were being grown. The

mcr

AT GUMBIRL 361

homesteads were mostly enclosed by hedges made of strong
beams and thorns, probably as a protection against the nume-
rous lions. - The villages in this district are generally situated
upon the tops of hills, and the numerous mounds and moun-
tains have quite a romantic appearance. Jebel Loka, called
Jebel Kuerkuit by the Bari of Bedén, forms an excellent
landmark, on account of its peculiar shape. It is seen for a
considerable distance, unless, as is often the case, its summit
is hidden by clouds.

We stayed the night in the village of Kerbolong, near the
mountains, and then proceeded to the adjacent station of Gum-
biri. The rain sufficed to wet me through and to interfere
with my work, but did not damp the spirits of the porters.
After passing through the fields which surround the village of
Goddu, our road led through swampy lowlands, where swarms
of yellow-backed widow-birds (Penthetri@ - macroura) were
climbing about the tall grass; then we reached a broad road,
made by the Gumbiri people, for which in such weather we
were doubly grateful.

The station of Gumbiri, in Fajeli, our farthest outpost in
the Makrakd district, was reached early, and we remained
there for one day. As the station had only just been built
and the surrounding natives were still rather timid, my stay
could not be thoroughly utilised. I have, however, been able
to ascertain on this journey that Khor Bibia has been till now
over-estimated, and that, like Khor Luri, it receives its waters
from the Loka and Kero mountains. It is said that Kiri, on
the Bahr-el-Jebel, can be reached from Gumbiri in four days'
march through very mountainous country. After marching
between the eleusine fields which surround Gumbiri, and which
are divided by deep ditches separating one man's property
from another, we arrived at high grass land, where numberless
khors rush over blocks of rock; the latter often form bridges
over the streams, but usually cause rapids. - Here and there,
swampy stretches were covered by small woods of Vatica.
Troops of chattering wood-hoopoes were to be seen in the
numerous butter-trees. - Two small hills near the road, at the
foot of which there were many fungiform termite structures, are
called Kéniy and Mundid, names given in Fajelt, as well as

362 BEDEN TO KAKUAK.

in Bari, to first and second born male twins. A buffalo herd -

emerged from the thick brushwood near Khor Kinda, a tribu-
tary of Khor Yei, and crossed our road, but fortunately did no
damage.

This Xhor used to form the boundary between the
who were pressing forward from the south-west, and the Fajelt,
who were retreating towards the east. 'The latter, being in
great difficulty, sought the aid of the Danagla, under command
of Ahmed Atrush, and were then able to drive back the canni-
bals ; they had, however, to pay a heavy price to their deliverers.
About an hour from the other side of Khor Kongoro is the
boundary between the Fajeltt and their relations the Kakudk,
in whose district several of our stations are situated. The
district of Kakuik is very mountainous, and the lofty summits
of Korobé and Kura served us as landmarks. The road
makes a great bend round these mountains, which appear to
stretch out in a long line towards the south ; the torrents
rushlng down from the heights glisten like sflver threads, and
joining form the important Khor Lunn, which we passed before
reaching the cultivated region where sesame, Hyptis, Vigna, eleu-
sine, and tobacco grow. White blossoming Tephrosias, on the
borders of the fields, are probably grown for use in fishing.
Zeribas and fields alternated with steppe and bush ; in the
latter the large-leaved Anona were conspicuous, while in the
steppe there were groves of Amomum, and sedges and gigantic
reeds grew in the muddy bottoms of depressions in the ground.
Upon the slope of Jebel Kurja, near some doleb palms, was a
small village ruled over by a young woman. From this place
we climbed up the steep black, bare granite rocks, over which
small watercourses murmured. The splendid deep blue Sal-
vias formed a great contrast to the dark red Ipomceas, which
twined about everywhere; cushions of moss and Selaginellas
grew along the water.

I was reluctant to leave the very beautiful view here Wthh
included the mountains of Kaliké in the south and those of
Ndirfi in the north. We descended between rocks and over
rubble to the level plain, through which many swampy Ahors
run, and in which we had twice to ford Khor Lunn before we
reached the small station of Korobe. This station is situated

HHR eae ie nea

A PELLGHTEUL  GARDEX., 63

ta

upon a hill, round which Khor Lunn flows, and it is celebrated
for its never-failing good water and its invariably cool tem-
perature, on which account it would form a good sanatorium
for the province; it is only about five hours' march distant
from the station of Ganda.

After crossing Khor Lunn again, this time by means of a
very good bridge, the country began to rise rapidly. The
path, which led over yellow, moist, loamy soil, passed be-
tween two rows of mountains, the one on the east being com-
posed of many peaks, eight hundred to fifteen hundred feet
from the road, which was often crossed by spurs from its hills
in the form of flat rocky ridges or high Mamelons, All the
khors were contained in very deep beds, but although they
were troublesome to cross, the march over the broad road,
edged by luxuriant vegetation, was, on the whole, very pleasant.
Kigelias and Prosopis laden with fruit, extensive reed-woods,
then stretches of high grass with gigantic Echinops, groves,
tall acacias, all the bushes grown over with COrucifers,
which exhale a stupefying odour, and the white flowers
of which shone like stars from the dark green bushes, the
road itself being strewn with the five-pointed flowers of a
Kszempferia, all combined to form a delightful garden. At
ten o'clock in the morning we found ourselves upon a water-
shed. All the brooks we had as yet crossed were tributaries of
the Yei, or at any rate they flowed to the north, whereas now
the streams flowed to the east. This fact is indicated upon
Junker's map of the district of the Yei, but the streams do not
flow into the Bibia, as in that map, but into the Bahr-el-Jebel
between Dufilé and Widelai The hills around Janda are
richly wooded and encircled by small AMors. The character
and vegetation of the country are, on the whole, very like those
of north Unydro, except that there are no banana groves, The
place of the banana is taken here by Musa ensete, which is
conformable with the altitude of the country. Date palms
were noticed near Khor Liékebe, and the bright flowers of the
Spathodias were blooming amongst the thick acacia wood
which covered the hill of Janda.

The station of Janda (Ganda), our most advanced post in
the Kakudk country, was only erected last year, and has since

 

364 BEDEN TO KAKUAK.

served as the centre for our relations with the southern tribes.
(Kaliké, Liibari, A-Liiri, and Logo). It has, however, lost
much of its importance by the erection of a new station on the
upper waters of the Kibbi, in Kalika, and by the latter being
connected with Wadelai in the east, with Tambira (also on the
Kibbi, but in the Logo district) to the west, and with the.
station of Kubi in the Monbuttu country, whereby a direct and
in part navigable road has been opened up between Monbuttu
and the Bahr-el-Jebel. - Janda is still, however, one of the.
most interesting posts in our province. Its high hill (four
thousand and eight feet by B.P. observation) commands an ex- _
tensive view over the whole country as far as the mountains
which run along the west bank of the Bahr-el-Jebel, whilst
towards the south an undulating stretch of country loses itself _
in the far-distant sky-line. At about an hour's march to the .
south of Janda, the territory of the Kalika begins ; it is followed -
to the east and south-east by that of the Lnibari, which in turn
extends to the Madi of the Bahr-el-Jebel. <The A-Iniri live
due south. On the west the Kalika extend northwards in the-
direction of Ndirf. -" Iniggar,". on Junker's map, is, as its
name implies, of Kakuak or Bari origin. Its chief with his
tribe are said to have been driven by the Makraki from their
original home into the Kalika territory. - 'The country to the
west of the Kalika is inhabited by the Logo, who extend from
the middle course of the Kibbi as far as their kinsmen, the:
Abukaya. - Babe, or rather Bagbe, on Junker's map, is really
the name of a Kalika chief.

The people who came with the chiefs Léemin and Bagbe
to visit me reminded me by their appearance of the Madi at
Dufilé, having, like them, dark chocolate-brown skins, rounder
heads, less prominent cheek-bones, and rather thinner lips than
the surrounding tribes. They were all completely loaded with .
heavy iron ornaments in the shape of bracelets and anklets. ‘
I rarely saw copper, but ivory rings on the legs, sometimes six
inches broad, appeared to be the pride of their owners. All
wore earrings, like the Midi, and some had as _
a flat-shaped cap made out of plaited string and decorated with _
ostrich feathers, which had been coloured red by iron ochre. .
They spoke Kakuik fluently, but used their own language,

 

MADI TRIBES. 363
among themselves. - Specimens of it which I noted down show
its identity with the Midi idiom of the Bahr-el-Jebel, the
distribution of which is therefore, as far as my present know-
ledge goes, as follows :-

(1) The Midi, to the east and west of the Bahr-el-Jebel,
(2) the Inibari, (3) the Kalika, (4) the Logo, (5) the Brera
division of the Amadi on the Kibali, (6) the Abukaya-Oizila
and Oigiga, (7) the Jojeri of Mort, near Wandi.

The relationship between this group and the westerly group
in the Bahr-el-Ghazal district, which have a remarkable linguistic
similarity, remains still to be discussed. At any rate there is
a well-marked difference between the language of the Madi
group living in our province and that spoken by all the other
tribes and peoples. It constitutes a compact division, to which
I would give the name of southerly, to distinguish it from the
northerly group of languages (Dinka, Bari, &e.)

The whole territory occupied by the Madi was formerly
enormously rich in cattle, and even to-day in some parts, as, for
instance, at Jebel Vatti, large and numerous herds are still
maintained. - On the whole, however, the number of cattle has
been reduced almost to zero, owing to the frequent raids made
from Makraki. In many of these razszias, six to eight thousand
head of cattle were carried off, and very quickly dissipated.
Now, however, agriculture flourishes, and besides talabwtn, red
durrah, and sesame, which used to be cultivated, the large-
grained white durrah from Makraka, which yields exceptionally
good flour, and was probably originally introduced from the
north, is also grown. I need hardly mention that gourds,
Helmia bulbifera, Liabias, hibiscus, &e., are largely cultivated,
but it is interesting to note that good yams are grown on
Jebel Vatti.

At Janda a perfectly new scraggy plant was brought me
from Liibari ; it had greyish-green, lancet-shaped leaves, and, like
the potato, some forty bulbs upon its roots, each four to five
inches long, about an inch in diameter, with a thin white
skin; when cooked it forms a good vegetable. It is now
much cultivated here, and is called lombo ; the natives plant
its shoots and bulbs all the year round, and have only to leave
sufficient room between the plants (which reach a height of

366 KAKUAK AND FAJELU COUKTRIES.

 

from twenty-four to thirty inches) to allow for the growth of 1
the bulbs. l i

Indisputably, the meteorological conditions of this district
are very favourable to agricultural operations. - There are tw0|1
very sharply defined rainy seasons, an abundant rainfall, under-i
ground water, a thoroughly damp soil, a moderate tempera-
ture, and a considerable population. The tomatoes (Solanum
lycopersicum) best show what the low temperature can accom-
plish ; they are as large here as those grown in the " blessed "_
islands of the Egean, whereas in the hot lowlands, on the
borders of the Bahr-el-Jebel, they reach at most the size of a
nut. Tobacco also, of which both species are grown, attains
here very considerable dimensions.

Janda must be a real paradise for the collector in spring-.
time. Although the rain never ceased and the high grass
rendered the chase very difficult, I was able to obtain in a
very short space of time many new species both of mammals
and birds, not to mention a large number of rare species, such
as Myrmecocichla nigra, Elminia Teresita, Lamnius gubernator,
Pentholcea clericalis, Circaiétus zonurus, Bubo capensis, and others.
Snakes, too, are exceedingly numerous ; most of them are small

Colubrids.

fo. Ins Kartik anp. FaELC CoUNThRhirs,

RETURN TO THE ¥YEI-A CONFIDING MOUSE-THE TRIBAL DIVISIONS OF
THE BARI-THE MARSHIA OF RIMO-A MAKRAKA VILLAGE.

THs road we took on our return journey from Janda to the
north led through Korobé, which we reached in a storm of
rain. - It passed mostly over steppe land, through which flowed
several large streams, such as Khor Kimil and Khor Kembe,
as far as the small station of Langomeri, near to which are
the steep and naked cliffs of the Kasa hill. The country is
well cultivated, and is said to be very fruitful. The inhabi-

AFRICAN BRIDGES. 367

tants of Kakuik are very numerous, and live in scattered
zertbas encircled by thorn hedges. The huts remind one of
those of the Bari, on account of their low walls and small
doors. - Inside each serfihe tobacco is cultivated, and two
species of Phaseolus overgrow the thorn hedges. - The women,
who are patterns of ugliness, were just employed in beating
eleusine on large flat pieces of rock, which lay scattered about,
and heaps of Hyptis were drying in the sun, giving out an
aromatic odour. I took a stroll through the eleusine fields to
observe the habits of numerous dwarf parrots (Agapornis pul-
laria). I shall always remember this walk, for on a stalk I
noticed a small bird climbing, which appeared quite strange
to me. I soon caught it--the first COrethica from north-east
Africa, which neither Riippell nor Heuglin mention. A young
specimen of the rare Myrmecocichla nigra was also captured,
and the pools afforded a new Triton, besides which a number
of very small frogs with very strong voices attracted my
notice.

An almost absolutely straight road-an avis rarissima in
this country-led from the picturesque rocks of Langomeri to
the Yei valley. - Its soil was a very moist alluvial clay, mixed
with much yellow sand. 'The woods were very light indeed,
but on the sides of the road were numerous sharp cutting
sedges. At the ford, the Yei was about twenty-five feet broad
and thirteen feet deep, so that the people had here improvised
a bridge, but I am still not quite clear how the porters, with
loads upon their heads, crossed it. We all preferred a very
unpleasant cold swim, and soon a number of brown and black
figures were splashing in the river, bidding defiance to the
numerous crocodiles. - Shortly afterwards we had to cross
another stream, which was thirteen feet broad and over six
deep. The bridge here was so respectable that we all crawled
over it, in order not to hurt the feelings of its architect. The
station of Vitako, which is situated upon an ascent, is a
wretched, unsavoury village. We had to remain there two
days, almost as prisoners, for the great feast (Zd-el-Kebir)
prevented our marching, and the continuous rain did not
allow us to leave the miserable huts. The natives brought to
me whole families of the @olunda pulchella, a beautiful and

368 KAKUAK AND FAJELU COUNTRIES.

very confiding mouse, which at once ate from my hand, showing
that it might easily be kept in a cage. As a rule, the female
has three to four young with her; they are usually striped
exactly like the parents, but their rusty colour is of a rather
darker shade. - This was, however, no place for either hunting
or collecting, for all the trees had been cut down in the neigh-
bourhood, with the exception of a few solitary tall ones along
the bank of the river. I was therefore glad to move on, and
after a tedious march through rain and mud, and a night spent

by Khor Yembe, an important tributary of the Yei, we passed _

|

 

|

through an open forest, in which a Xeropetalum was bloom- _

ing. Then we reached Khor Kobbo, which is enclosed on both
sides by broad swampy borders, and sends its rushing waters

into the Yei. Two trees thrown over the - kkor formed a |
rickety bridge, about sixteen feet above the rapid stream, -

which was forty feet broad and twelve feet deep. The swampy
land on the other side of the khor was literally covered with
Parnassiae palustris, which could have almost been mistaken
for a European variety. A short march led us through a hilly
steppe, with swampy depressions, to the station of Rimo, our
headquarters in the Kakuik and Fajelu countries.

Rimo consists of scattered groups of huts and zeribas,

surrounded by fields. It is the centre of a perfect babel of i
tribes: Kakuik occupy the south and south-east; Fajelt the _

north and south-west; Mundi the west; a colony of Bari,
who have wandered here from the Nile, have their dwellings
scattered all about, and the true Marshia occupy Rimo itself.
The cultivation of this district does not much differ from what
may be seen elsewhere, except that a few very neglected
bananas have been planted. Khor Geli, with its swampy
banks, would be a remarkably good place on which to culti-
vate rice, but, of course, no one has ever thought of planting
it. Cotton grows here very well. Rimo has suffered much
lately from the depredations of elephants, which have broken
into the station at night and destroyed the crops. - It is very
remarkable that I saw no vultures along the whole of my
route, their absence being explained by the paucity of cattle,
whilst the few goats hardly supply the demands of the popu-
lation. - The Milous Forskalii, too, which is elsewhere so

THE BARI AND THEIR SUBDIYISTONXS. 369

common, is rarely seen here. On the other hand, I saw the
Elanus melanopterus in full feather (in October) ; it arrives
here in September, breeds, and leaves for the north in February
or the beginning of March. - The Penthetric macrourae and
Euplectes flammiceps are very common indeed, and were also
in full feather.

Before I leave Rimo, and the Kakuik and Fajelt countries,
it may not be out of place to consider the position of these
tribes with regard to the surrounding peoples, more especially
as Fajelt has not been previously visited, so that my journey
was the first through this district.

The Bart people, to which both these tribes belong, are
divided into the following eight large divisions :-(1) Bari (to
the east and west of the Nile), (2) Fajelt, (3) Kakuik, (4)
Marshia, (5) Nyambara, (6) Liggi, (7) Mandari, (8) Shir.

These divisions together form a sharply defined whole, and
are distinguished from their neighbours by physique, customs,
and language. It is true that fewer lanky men are found
among the inhabitants of the mountains of Kakuik and Fajelt
than among the Bari of the lowlands; the colour of their skin,
too, varies greatly between dark brown and reddish brown, where-
as the Shir, for example, are all of an almost exactly identical
colour (No. 42 of Broca's scale of colours). But through-
out all the divisions, the head is always of the same shape,
so that a member of this group can be at once distinguished
among hundreds of other Negroes. The temples are very
strongly compressed just before the ears, so that the height of
the skull is much increased throughout the whole length of the
sagittal suture, owing to the approximation of the lower borders
of the parietal bones. This is so marked that it alone suffi-
ciently characterises the group. 'This is not the place to
detail the anthropological material which I have gathered, as
the Bari have often been described elsewhere. The language
spoken by these eight divisions is perfectly identical, with the
exception, perhaps, of a few words which have been imported
from their immediate neighbours. - This latter fact applies also
to the Nyambara, although they live in the centre of the dis-
trict occupied by the whole group, and therefore come less in
contact with strangers than the other divisions. The influence

2 A&

370 KAKUAK AND FAJELU COUNTRIES.

of outsiders is very marked amongst the Kakuik and Fajelti, -

who often wear a leafy dress, in imitation of the Makraké

tribes, instead of the leather apron usually worn by the Bari. |

They are, however, conservative enough to retain their broad
tails of cotton threads. Earrings, too, are worn by both sexes

in the west, whereas they are very rarely seen in the neigh- .
bourhood of the Nile, and the Kakuik women alone wear a

quartz pin in the lower lip. _ It may also be worth mentioning

that, whereas the real Bari, the Shir, and the Mandari live in -
permanent villages, which, once established, are never abandoned, _
the divisions occupying the south and west have roving habits, _
and like to change their villages from year to year. The }
Marshia, who live in and around Rimo, and who are few in -

number, occupy a rather isolated position in the general group.
Externally they resemble the Bari type, and are of very dark
complexion, and they appear to be the remainder of a large
tribe which in the course of time has been scattered. They
live rather exclusively, and marry among themselves, or with
girls they have bought from other tribes. 'They are very
skilfal and industrious smiths.

Passing by the chief zertbe of Rimo, which was encircled by
bananas, and where ten to fifteen Danagla lived, we descended
to Khor Geli, which flows into the Yei, and crossed it by
means of a swinging tree-trunk ; its depth varies from six to

 

eight feet, and it was thirty-two feet broad. An hour was |
occupied in getting the people and goods across the bridge, _

and we then ascended through a belt of sedges to the village
of Maga, a Mori settlement in the country.
Close by the village there is a very swampy depression

called Dange, containing about three feet of water, and ending

in a perfect wilderness of high grass, shrubs, and brushwood.
Chief Woda's row of huts, Wandi, forms the boundary here
between the Fajelt district and that of the true Makrakd4, whose
first village, Poro, had a very pleasing appearance. Conspicuous
among the cultivated plants were splendid Colocasias, manioc,
and Helmia, and an abundance of tobacco. Threatening rain
compelled us to camp at Chief Bandua's village, Abutii, which
consisted of twelve huts, as many corn stores, and therefore as
many wives. In the middle of the zertbe was a cleanly kept

P We S9

A EKARUAK VILLAGE: 371

space, with a smooth floor of red clay, used for house-work and
dancing. The huts, which were much more roomy and larger
than those in Fajelt, had walls of straw mats, plaited in the
pattern of chess-boards, just like those I had formerly seen in
Bufi; the roofs were bell-shaped. The thorn hedge which
surrounded the village was overgrown with beans, one of
which, having black seeds, appeared to be wonderfully fruit-
ful, for each pod contained between fifteen and seventeen seeds.
Yams were grown inside the zertbe. Goats, dogs, and fowls
were the only domesticated animals visible. The goats were
gaunt animals, having rather long legs and smooth nose and
breasts. Most of them were white or brown ; they are said to
be very prolific. The dogs were small, of a very compact
build, with erect ears and tails, the latter being curled at the
tips; they were mostly grey or tan-coloured. 'The fowls were
small, and had very bright feathers.

As the chief of the village was Aors de combat, owing to a
buffalo wound in his thigh, the sceptre was for a time in the
hands of his first and very intelligent wife, who understood
perfectly well how to command. All the beauties of the
place, ornamented with masses of iron and a few leaves,
honoured me by considerable attention, especially an old
woman, who did all she could to attract my notice. I could
not understand at first why she did it, but this was soon ex-
plained by my being told that the daughter of this old woman
had been set at liberty by me in Amadi last year; she was
one of the slaves I had found there, and she had returned to
her mother. - Before the huts were straw plates containing a
great quantity of caterpillars, about two inches long, which,
after being freed from their hairs and lightly roasted in the
fire, are considered an excellent dish.

The brushwood near Abutu showed evident signs of a recent
visit of elephants ; they had certainly not improved our road,
which, after leaving the village of Mbala, led past innumerable
zertbas and villages, I had never seen so many buildings to-
gether except in Uganda, and the resemblance to that country
was increased by the cultivation, for there were extensive fields of
sweet potatoes, chiefly of the white-skinned species, and manioc
grew everywhere, while bananas and tobacco were extensively

372 KABAYENDI AND THE MAKRAKA.

planted, and even the red Amaranthus and Canna indica were
not wanting. - The huts alone were different, and reminded
me more of the true Nyam-Nyam style of architecture. In
order to find a bridge-these people do not appear to love the
water-woe were led about four hours from the village, and
had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of innumerable
small chiefs, until at last we arrived at Khor Bandama, and
having crossed it by means of a wonderfully simple bridge
composed of two tendril ropes, our guides wished to camp in
the village of Rémbeta. It was a clean place, with friendly
people and extensive cultivation. I found here the beautiful
Solanum which grows in Uginda ; its red cherry-like fruit is
very tempting-looking, notwithstanding its objectionable taste ;
but if we had remained we should not have arrived at Kaba-
yendi next day, so we determined to march on. f

 

II. KABAYENDI AND THE MaAaKRAKA.

A BUFFALO-HUNT - LIFE AT KABAYENDI- IMMIGRANT ZANDE - SULTAN
wWANDO'S HISTORY-NATURAL HISTORY NOTES-THE MAKRAKA—IDDIO,
THEIR TRIBAL DIVISIONS, CUSTOMS, AND QUALITIES.

Tgg country was cultivated as far as Khor Nambia, where
ironstone crops up, but then followed a wilderness with a
most extraordinary confusion and density of vegetation. _ It
was almost impossible to breathe sometimes in the midst of
the grass and brushwood. A tremendous noise was heard
in the jungle-the natives were engaged in a buffalo-hunt,
with nets and spears, as is customary here. After passing
Khor Kurpio, we again entered durrah fields in which zertbas

were situated, and we passed a broad, perfectly flat slab of _

gneiss lying across the road. It was late in the afternoon
when we crossed Khor Au, a considerable stream of good clear
water, and ascended to chief large village of Ekiideli,
where we halted on account of the pouring rain. - The chief,

who came to welcome us, vanished almost immediately, pro- _

4

Gatch

MAKRAKA FRISURES. 373

bably thinking to escape a request for porters; so, after a
deluge of rain, we were compelled to leave a number of our
loads behind, to be forwarded later on, and we then continued
our tramp through the mud, and crossing Khor Torre, a
swampy runnel, we reached Ondebiri.

The chief, Gigo, is an old, grey-bearded man, very tall,
with well-arranged locks and a pointed, waxed beard ; he is
a celebrated tippler, and was accompanied by fifteen portly
Venuses wearing aprons of leaves. I noticed here again the
luxuriant growth of hair which distinguishes the Makraka
from their neighbours. It is seen in both men and women,
and they construct most wonderful frisures by carefully
arranging it in small plaits and locks, saturated with fat,
gum, and red iwon-clay.. When their hair is let down, the
Makraka women remind one forcibly of the Abyssinians, such
as those seen in Gadaref. After a short march, we reached
the road coming from and then passed
through fields, where a number of runnels had to be crossed.
When we reached the station at midday, we were received by
Nyam-Nyam playing upon musical instruments, singing Mak-
rakd, screaming Bari women, and the inhabitants of the village
-a curious spectacle, which was rendered the more impressive
by the appearance of the Indian elephants which marched up
to greet us.

The zeribas of Kabayendi cover a considerable extent of
ground, which is usually cultivated, but having been exhausted,
it is now left fallow for a time, and is covered by short grass.
Few trees are seen, for they have been used up by the large
population. - Plenty of water can be obtained in Khor Menze ;
it is, however, coloured red, and tastes strongly of iron. On
this account wells are dug at a short distance from the /or,
and cold drinking-water is obtained from them, of a dirty white
colour, and still tasting strongly of oxide of iron. The cultiva-
tion is as usual. In the officials' gardens, citrons, sweet lemons,
papaws, figs, and Anonas thrive very well; they have all been
imported here from Ladd. It is curious that the pomegranate,
although it thrives well, never bears any fruit in Lado; the
only explanation I can give is, that the trees have been too
plentifually watered. Onions and water-melons also thrive well.

374 KABAYENDI AND THE MAKRAKA.

We planted cotton for the first time this year, and from two
okkas of seeds we obtained twenty kantar of good cotton, a
result which certainly encourages me to go on with its culti-
vation. - I am now going to try rice and indigo.

Kabayendi was established about twenty years ago by De-
bono's people, who came to this district from Atrush's station
on the Yei. They first settled to the north, in the Abukaya
district, but were driven away by ants (termites), and then
occupied the old station of Fadl Allah, on the river Embe. In
1877 they removed to this place, notwithstanding its bad
water, as the fields near Fadl Allah had been exhausted. The
population of Kabayendi is composed chiefly of Makrakd and
Bombé, some Abukaya, and a few Mort and Mundu. Bari
(from Ladd) reside in small colonies all over the province.
The true Zande (Nyam-Nyam) are at the present moment very
numerous, because Mhio's brother, Sultan Wando, having been
driven from the Bahr-el-Ghazal district by Rafai-Aga's bad
treatment, sought refuge here with all his people, wishing to
settle in our district.

I have offered him the unoccupied land to the south of
Tomayd, and already messengers have been sent to gather his
scattered people and to bring them here. According to the
latest intelligence, Mbio himself, after a six months' war, and
after he had destroyed all his ivory, has been captured by
Rafai-Aga and Hassan-Aga's soldiers, and taken to the Bahr-
el-Ghazal, where he is now in captivity. I was going to visit
him, but now my journey will be considerably shortened. I
am sorry for this brave warrior!

Wando, well known to readers of Dr. Schweinfurth's book,
is a well-built, athletic fellow ; he has a dark skin and a com-
pletely shorn head, which distinguishes him from the other
Nyam-Nyam, who think so much of their frisures. - The rokko
trousers of the Monbuttu constitute his only dress. He was
accompanied by three of his fourteen sons, all wearing the
handsome hide-dress of the Zande, and tall straw hats deco-
rated with parrots' feathers. The indispensable trumpeters
accompanied them, carrying gigantic horns and trumpets made
out of elephant's tusks and decorated by leopard-skins.

I noticed near Khor Menze, which flows into the Torre near

4

THE MAKRAKA AND THEIR DIVISIONS. 375

the station, a great number of fresh-water crabs (Telphusa),
very comical, nimble creatures, who when approached at first
show fight, but then run away. They are called by the Mak-
raka ugennre, and are eaten by them, as indeed is everything
that can be eaten. I also found a beautiful small snake; I
had seen it before near Ladd, Fatiko, Latiika, and Fauvera,
but have never found more than one at a time. It was the
Typhlops Schlegelit, formerly only found in Mozambique; it
appears, however, that this graceful animal is extensively dis-
tributed throughout Central Africa. - Several specimens of the
Georychus were brought to me; they are very common in the
Dinka district, but the variety found here appears to be rather
larger and of a darker grey colour. The most common bird
seemed to be the Spermestes cucullatus, which builds its nests in
the high straw roofs, and in this country appears to take the
place of the Lagonosticta A large Hyphantornis was also
found ; it is certainly a new variety, but is probably related to
the Hyphantornis Guerini. A long stay here would probably
enable me to make many new discoveries. The whole of the
immediate neighbourhood of the station has been devastated
by elephants. f

In the foregoing pages I have often made use of the name
Makrakd in order to designate the peculiar people who have
pushed themselves in between the northerly tribes. I must,
therefore, mention here that this name, which is accepted on
all sides, is not their original patronymic, but a nickname which
has been given to these cannibals by the original occupiers of
the country. About four generations ago, four Zande tribes,
the Iddio, Bongbé (Bombé), Apigumba, and Abdugminda, tired
of the constant oppression of their own chiefs, left their homes,
which lay far to the west-south-west, and made their way
towards the north; the rumour of their cannibal propensities,
which spread far and wide, rendered their advance easy. I
have already mentioned that on their trying to enter Fajelt in
the east they were driven back. They then settled in their
present quarters, and thence rapidly extended. - The Apigumba
and the Abingminda, who have an idiom of their own as well
as the common Zande language, being numerically small tribes,

blended with the Bongbé and Wando's Zande. The Bongbé

376 KABAYENDI AND THE MAKRAKA.

and the Iddio, on the other hand, maintained their separate
existence as distinct tribes, as also their tribal peculiarities, and
form to-day, the former under their own name, and the latter
under the name a most valuable portion of our popu-
lation, owing to their industry and trustworthiness.

The Iddio (Makrakd) living in the province of Makrakd,
include ten divisions, each ruled over by an hereditary chief,
namely, the Akbayd, Rembeté, Wiamberi, Bondua,
Agbati, Mbédimo, Abate, Akudeli, and Aviingodi. These
divisions have many subdivisions (the Agbatii, for instance,
counting ten), each of which is ruled by an hereditary sub-chief,
in addition to whom each village has its superintendent, who is
appointed by the chief of the district, and can be deposed by him
at pleasure. The Iddio do not recognise any universal chief;
disputes are settled by the superintendents of the villages, and
questions of great importance by the superior chiefs. I can-
not say whether any other relation exists besides their common
origin between our Iddio and those who live far to the south-
west. The Iddio-Makrakd are still a hardy hunting people;
they have, however, in the course of time, improved their
methods of agriculture in a way hardly seen in any other tribe.
The plants which they brought from their own country form
even now their staple crops; two of them, the Colocasia and
manioc, give to the Nyam-Nyam villages a very characteristic
appearance. - Throughout this region these two plants are only
extensively cultivated in Uginda and by the Zande tribes, and
if specimens are met with in other places, it is, as a rule, easy
to say where they come from.

My endeavour to introduce cattle-breeding amongst the
Makrakd only led to one result-they immediately ate all the
cows I gave them. The true Makraké4 will eat everything, it
matters not what it be, from the elephant to the wild cat, from
the enormous python down to the fat grubs in the rotten wood
of a dead tree; everything that moves is eaten. . Our porters
carried with them on the march (hanging to their arms) mouse-
traps made of twisted split reeds, and when we reached our
night quarters they had no sooner laid down their loads than
each man was busily engaged setting his trap. Although the
Makraké often marry women from the neighbouring tribes,

_Z

WOMEN'S RIGHTS. 377

they always remain true to the Zande peculiarities, habits, and
customs ; therefore the difference is all the more remarkable
which exists between their women and the women of the truo
Zandé, who are of the same original stock. - Whereas the
Zande women possess an extremely retiring and modest dis-
position, are hardly to be seen upon entering a village, and
are greatly respected by their husbands, although they have
no women's rights besides those of performing their household
duties, the Makraki women rule the roost and possess every
freedom. - As soon as you enter one of their villages, the
women, who are mostly tall and of a very powerful build,
attract attention, and it soon becomes evident that they speak
the last word in the affairs of the village. They are, neverthe-
less, good, industrious workwomen, and are very much attached
to their husbands. I must, however, refrain from touching on
the subject of family life, although many interesting customs
obtain here, for Dr. Junker, who has lived for a considerable
time in this country, will of course be able to treat of this
subject in a more thorough and detailed manner than I could
possibly do after a stay of only three days. I will only say,
therefore, in conclusion, that the dialect spoken by the Makraké-
Iddio differs very little from that spoken by the remainder of
the Zandé, with the exception of a few isolated names for
plants and animals Their love of music and enthusiastic
pursuit of it are the same as amongst the other Zande tribes,
and many of their magic practices are also identical. They
are likewise excellent smiths and workers in iron, and their
elegantly formed knives and delicate wirework are models of
excellent workmanship.

378 THROUGH ABAKA COUNTRY TO GOSA.

12. THrovan tHuE® ABark& Country to Goga.

TOMAYLA-LUXURIANT " GALLERY" wOODS-THE MPAFU-TREE-THE ABAKL
-GREAT COLD-CHIEF ANSEA-ATROCITIES OF THE DANAGLA-NATIVE
SELE-HELP-THE BABUKUR-GOSA-COTTON-WEAVERS.

AFTER leaving Kabayendi, we wandered through a very hilly
country, in which many gneiss peaks were to be seen, to the
pretty little village of Mindi, where, from the top of a high
hill, I obtained a good view over the rows of the Abukaya
mountains, which lay to the north. The chief of the village
was an intelligent fellow, so that I was able to obtain from
him the real names of the mountains, the Nyam-Nyam generally
being accustomed to give the name of the nearest chief as
that of the mountain (for instance, Mbia Maloguma, the moun-
tain of Maloguma). Large stretches of land, over which the
road then led, were lying fallow, for the people only culti-
vate the land for a couple of years at a time. I noticed again
here huge boulders, at the foot of one of which Khor Hord
flowed, hidden between thick masses of reeds. - This Aor forms
the boundary between the Makraka and the who, it
appears, are not always good friends. An almost treeless flat,
overgrown with fine grass, extends from the foot of the hill of
Badia to Khor Asa, a clear mountain stream, which forms at
the ford a small waterfall. Its water, for a wonder, did not
contain iron, so that, after the mineral waters we had had to
drink for some days, it was very refreshing. - The small station
of Tomays, so named after the chief of the surrounding Abaké,
lay at a few minutes' distance uphill.

It may be well to mention here, that since Dr. Junker
travelled in this district, nearly all the chiefs and villages
which he mentions have changed their positions, with the
exception, of course, of such places as Wandi, Kabayéndi, Rimo,
and Ndirfi, which have become permanent Government stations.

The scenery around Tomaysd is diversified ; rocks, wood,
meadows (if I may use this expression in Africa), and flowing
waters fringed by bush, make the place a rich storehouse for
the collector. I found here many species of birds for the first

ondes nen" Is nice cea hada ies

P"

A "GALLBRY" WOOL. 379

2

time. - Amongst them was a beautiful widow-bird, as black as
velvet, and a new and very graceful pigeon, of which I had
already obtained specimens in Janda. - Small quadrupeds were
also numerous. - Hundreds of black Clausilia-like univalve
shells of two species were lying upon the moss which covered
the rocks in Khor Asa; curiously enough, all of them had lost
the point of the spiral, and although I examined more than
two hundred, I was not able to obtain a single perfect specimen.
None of the inhabitants of the village could be seen, for, as
Chief Ansea subsequently complained to me, the Abak& of
Tomayg are of a rather intractable character.

I had been told that the station of Kudirma was so far
distant that two days' march would be required to reach it;
we therefore collected our porters early, and before dawn, with
the threatening comet above our heads, we descended the steep
declivity leading to Khor Anje, which was hidden in durrah-
fields. The ascent was just as steep and precipitate; then,
marching along a ridge of hill, the rubble of which was thickly
covered with white and yellow lichens, we enjoyed an extensive
view over an exceedingly undulating and fertile land, in
which were many high hills, whose naked outlines stood out
above the green foliage like fortifications. - Villages surrounded
by their corn-fields lay in the depressions of the country far
below us, often hidden by rolling veils of mist. 'The fresh cool
morning air, the perfume of the plants and of the burnt-down
grass, the echoing song of the birds, and the flashing golden
tints of the rising sun combined to produce in the traveller a
feeling of buoyancy.

I noticed in the steppe which we next passed through many
groups of trees growing like islands in the broad expanse.
The path led in the direction of what appeared from the
distance to be a line of dwarf trees, but which were in reality
the tops of trees which grew in a hollow, their summits only
reaching to the level of the plain. A very deep descent
revealed the wonders of a " gallery" wood growing in a great
depression, of the same character as those so often seen in the
south. The trunks of the trees rose to a height of some hun-
dred or hundred and thirty feet before their crowns unfolded.
One of these " gallery " woods, through which Khor Modzua

380 THROUGH ABAKA COUNTRY TO GOSA.

flowed, was extremely interesting to me, owing to a species of
Pandanus, which was growing in a peculiar manner, some of
the plants having shot up to a great height before spreading
out their fans, whilst others resembled enormous reeds, divid-
ing close to the ground, and forming an impenetrable hedge
along the Aor. The hook-like thorns on the edges of the
leaves and on the under surface of the midrib were very sharp
and dangerous to the skin. This plant is called by all the
Zande bodduméd, by the Abaks bakive, and by the Mundi
langa. - This appears to be the most easterly point of its
distribution.

The village of Langiza, a Bongbé settlement, is surrounded
by durrah-fields ; its inhabitants had fled, but were seen peep-
ing out from behind the bushes. It is curious to note that
the people here sow eleusine and Hyptis amongst the durrah.
I noticed in the " gallery " wood near Khor Langa an old friend
in the gigantic tree called in Kiginda, and which, ac-
cording to Cameron's book, is known under the same name on
the west side of Tanganyika. In Abaks this tree is called
obbi, in Mundu abbi, in Zande mbiri or mbili, in Makraké bino,
and the use of its sweet-smelling resin and of its reddish
compact wood, as also the extraction of its red oil from the
green husks, are known here. 'Two of the trees I saw were
very large, but not so gigantic as those seen in Uganda.

Khor Langa forms the boundary between the Abakd and
Mundu countries. The " gallery " wood at Khor Krifa, which
takes about twenty minutes to cross, surpassed in beauty and in
luxuriance of vegetation any I have hitherto seen. In the deep
twilight, to which no sunbeam penetrates, ferns, Calladias, Acan-
thus, and Capparidaceae rivalled each other in the vigour of their
growth. The stream foamed over the moss-covered stones in
silvery white cascades, and high up in the trees the white coat
of the Colobus guereza flashed now and then through the thick
entangled foliage. After a short march through the steppe in
which these AAors are situated, we arrived at an early hour at
Khor Aire or Ire, which had a dense barrier of reeds. Its
water was of a yellowish colour, and the opposite bank of the
river flashed and glittered with mica. After twice fording this
khor, we reached the station of Kudurma, which lay to the

 

* LAND OF BOULDERS. 381

J

west of the high hill of Mungo. The country is here crossed
in all directions by rows of hills, sometimes of considerable size.
Khor Aire flows in a sharp curve towards the north, at a few
minutes' walk from the very prettily situated station. Its banks
are lined by beautiful woods, in which a great deal of rattan
(Calamus secundiflorus) grows, having large fruit panicles. - This
plant, which is called by the Zande poddv, and by the Mundi
akhka4, provides the people with good material for basket-work
in its fine feathery fan, and its stalk, after being split and
freed from thorns, is plaited into beautiful shields.

Crossing a hilly, scantily wooded steppe, broken by many
swampy depressions which drain the country towards the north,
our path led, after passing the swamp of Bopara, out of the
Mundi country into that of the Abakd. - The language of the
latter is more nearly related to that of the northern tribes,
whereas the Mundi have penetrated here from the south, and
their nearest relations are the Mumberi or Momi, who live near
the Welle. I noticed that the steppe was covered by numerous
boulders; they were sometimes broad slabs, sometimes round
Mamelons, just like those I had seen farther to the north, in
the Mittu district. They were occasionally quite bare, but in
other places covered with sparse vegetation. Khor Mekke and
Khor Edi were the largest watercourses we met with; both
are sources of the Yalo. The bed of the first was composed of
bare rocks, while the second flowed over yellow sand. Khor
Edi was partially bridged over by a tree-trunk. From this
point the rise of the ground became more apparent, but there
were still many swampy places, through which we had to wade,
until we reached our station of Kanga, which is built in the
fallow fields surrounding the zertb@ of the district chief.

We had suffered considerably from cold during the last few
days; as a rule the thermometer registered in the morning
at six o'clock 62° Fahr., which to us was a Russian temperature,
used as we were to the heat of the lowlands. In the mornings
our whole party, blacks, whites, and browns, sat round the fire
to warm our hands. Khor Edi flows quite near the station ;
a granite dyke running across it causes a large rapid. Where-
ever flat slabs of rock did not prevent the growth of vegetation,
there were broad impenetrable Pandanus thickets, inhabited by

382 THROUGH ABAKA COUNTRY TO GOSA.

Aulacodus Swinderianus, which are much hunted on account of _
their tender flesh. An otter (Lutra) is said to be found farther
up-stream ; I often saw the natives wearing pieces of its skin.
The steppe cat (Welis mamiculata) is also said to be very common |
all over this district. Three female cats were given to me in
one day ; they were very nice, dusky-grey creatures, with a fow
greyish-black stripes and white paws; notwithstanding their
small size, they spat horribly as soon as they were touched.
It would be interesting to send a pair to Europe in order to
see what influence the climate and food would make upon the
second and third generation. 'The European wagtail (Budytes
flava) had already come back to its winter quarters.

Chief Ansea, the ruler of the Abaké of Kanga, affects a
greasy fez and a long Tibet robe, green with age, as also wide
Turkish trousers, of a colour very difficult to describe; but
although his authority extends far and wide, and many Negroes
obey his commands, he has not yet been able to afford a shirt ;
so it was my first business to renew his outer man, after
which, on account of his light brown skin, exceedingly straight
profile, scanty full beard, and his classic Sudan Arabic, he gave
the impression of being rather an inhabitant of Dar-Mahas or
Batn-el-Hajr than an Abaké prince. His zertb« consisted of
about forty huts and granaries, and as many very ugly women,
with such enormous plates inserted into their lips that they
almost looked like broad beaks. - This, together with the undu-
lating movement of their hips when walking, called to my
mind very forcibly the spoonbill. 'The people here carry a
perfect arsenal of iron upon their bodies.

As the ground round Kanga is exhausted, Ansea intends
shortly to remove his village to the Khor Meridi. - This kor,
which is now a stream of from two or three feet in breadth, is
usually seventy feet wide. Farther to the north it is called Roa.
It was about two and a half hours' march from Kanga. Masses
of reeds and canes grow on the red ferruginous mud, where
they appear to thrive. The other head-stream of the Roa, the
Rasubd, also flows over this same ferruginous mud, which, in
addition to the broad fringe of Pandanus, adds considerably
'to the unpleasantness of the ford. Iron appears to be very
plentiful in this district, for I found that arrow-heads made of

 

ABD-ES-SAMMATS NEPHEW. 383

iron are used here as articles of currency, and are exceedingly
sought after by the surrounding tribes. In the steppe-wood
which grows between these two watercourses, I noticed very
many specimens of Sarcocephalus, with ripe fruits ; also several
species of Vitex, the fruit of which was just beginning to
ripen. Khor Aoa is about a hundred feet broad; it has a
muddy bed, composed of yellow mould, and is enclosed in
broad " gallery " woods. The ford must once have been very
difficult, for the people have tried to construct a kind of bridge,
by heaping in the river cut grasses, upon which the traveller
sinks over the ankles.

We camped for the night at Baga, which is now inhabited
by Zande proper, who have for long contended with the robber
bands of Sabbi. _ Abdullahi Abd-es-Sammat, an unworthy
nephew of his open-hearted uncle, does not content himself
with robbing and plundering the whole of this district from
his at Sabbi and Kanna, but also tyrannises over the
people by cutting off their hands and feet for his private
amusement. It was on account of cruelties of this kind, and
the panic which they had raised amongst the inhabitants, that
I visited them, for their complaints to the Government of the
Bahr-el-Ghazal district had not been attended to. This was
only to be expected, for there the officials are all brothers
or cousins.

Leaving Biga, we crossed many steppes, éhors edged with
broad " gallery " woods, and swamps containing the abominable
Vossia grass, until we reached Jebel Ngirud, where I utilised a
short halt to ascend it. After treading down the grass, I was
able to obtain a view from its summit as far as Jebel Baginze,
but the names I heard for the different points of interest did
not exactly tally with those given to Dr. Junker. This is
probably to be explained by the fact that he appears to have
had Nyam-Nyam interpreters, whilst I had Abaki. On the
other side of Jebel Ngirua, well-wooded country gradually sinks
to Isu, or Echu, as it is here called. As I did not wish to
waste my time in idle words, I preferred not to visit the
stronghold of the Danagla, which was situated upon that river,
but took the road which led past burnt zertbas and devastated
fields to the village of Ombamba, where we halted. The mes-

384 THROUGH ABAKA COUNTRY TO GOSA.

sengers whom I sent to the zeribe to fetch its commander
returned, bringing with them Chief Endauia, accompanied by
most of the people who had been the greatest sufferers, and I
ascertained from them that when a rumour of my approach
arrived two days ago, the robbers decamped during the night
with all their treasures, and that the zertbe was now deserted.
I at once gave orders for the erection of a station here to
guard the frontier.

Chief Ranga, of the Babukur tribe, owns this exceedingly
fruitful district; he appears to depend in a measure upon the
more powerful Ansea. The latter's eldest son rules over the
Babukur who live round Jebel Mogille: They are an ugly
people, of a deep black colour; their upper lips are pierced,
and in many cases their ears too, and they possess even a
worse reputation for cannibalism than the Monbuttu themselves.
I noticed that eleusine, sweet potatoes, Colocasias, yams, Helmia,
and a little durrah were cultivated. The huts and granaries
were in shape like those of the Nyam-Nyam, but less graceful.
The language of the Babukur, as well as their appearance and
their universal custom of circumcision, reminded me forcibly
of the inhabitants of Lond, in Kabréga's country, who have
also migrated from the west. A Sterculia is common here;
the Abakia manufacture a coarse cloth from its bark, which
they use for aprons.

It was impossible to do all that I had intended here, on
account of Mhbio's capture and the flight of the robbers. A
long stay would have been useless, so, with a heavy heart, I
commenced my return journey, The old road was taken as
far as Meridi, but from there we struck out in a new direction
to Gosa. The country we traversed rose gradually, and several
low ridges of hill crossed our path. Large pieces of beautiful
white quartz are scattered over these ridges. The people
manufacture the long pins and broad plates which the women
wear in their lips out of this quartz by rubbing one piece
against another. After passing Ngéle, a miserable village,
where we could obtain no durrah, but got some very good yams,
we marched through a district having an exceedingly wintry
aspect, and containing many deep swamps, to Moggi, a large
village, where Ansea's brother, Falongo, resides. Thick Ano-

DANAGLA IN SLAYVE-YOKES. 385

geissus groves surrounded the village, and swamps of Turtur
albiventris fluttered about among the huts, apparently fill-
ing the place usually occupied by the Turtur semitorquatus.
Falango, a celebrated tippler, appears to exact prompt obedi-
ence from his people, for the porters we requested were at
once forthcoming, and he insisted upon accompanying us him-
self to our next night's quarters.

The next stretch of country was covered with boulders, and
there were many small peaks. Tobacco (Wicotiana Virginiana)
is extensively cultivated in this district, and used, as elsewhere,
for smoking, whereas the N. rustica, with the yellow flowers, is
mostly chewed. A row of lofty mountains running from south
to north was visible from the top of a flat gneiss slab on the
hill of Asdla. I took compass bearings of the peaks, but was
not able to obtain their names, for the mountains lie in the
Abukaya country, and the Abaki@ who were with me do not
travel. Corn and tobacco, sesame and mris@, exist in their
own country, and they obtain their clothes from the @ibbi-tree ;
Justus Perthes's Institute is unknown-why, then, should they
travel ?

The swamps on our road were very frequent, and generally
knee-deep,-sticky, muddy beds, having nice-sounding names,
but being very unpleasant realities. We saw the red-headed
dwarf parrot (Agapornis pullaria) in swarms, twittering in the
durrah and eleusine fields. Notwithstanding the great beauty
of this bird, it is much disliked by the inhabitants on account
of its destructiveness. We passed Chief Buringulu's new
zeriba, Ambereko, situated upon a high hill, the flanks of
which were covered by durrah-fields. A well-cultivated plain
stretched out on all sides, except in the east, where the
Abukaya mountains formed an apparently continuous wall.
The march from here to the station of Gosa was short but
noteworthy, for an incident occurred showing very clearly the
present condition of this country. 'I'wo Danagla from the
Bahr-el-Ghazal had recently come to Ndirfi, but, disturbed by
my presence in the neighbourhood, had endeavoured to lcross
the frontier at night with five or six slaves. 'The Negroes
living here had, however, defeated them, and put them in slave-
yokes (sheba), in order to lead them to me. It is certainly a

2 R

386 GOSA TO WANDT.

good sign that such a thing can happen in the country with-
out a disturbance.

The Alire,.or Ire, as the Yalo is called here, is about sixty-
five feet broad and three and a half feet deep at the ford.
The banks, which are not wooded, slope gently down to the
rushing water, which is broken by ledges of rock.

Gosa, the central station of the Abukaya country, was only
raised to the rank of a station a few months ago. It is ad-
mirably situated for watching the road from Monbuttu to the
north, and those leading to the district of Rol and to the
Bahr-el-Ghazal. - My experiences last year in Amadi proved
the necessity of this surveillance. Cotton has thriven so well
here that it has given rise to the industry of weaving, which
will probably be of considerable importance in the future.
The inhabitants-at present only the Danagla and their ser-
vants-weave the light cotton stuff known throughout the
Sudan as damur, which is so very well suited to our climate.
It is better made here than I have ever seen it in Khartim.
Gosa lies so low that I was unable to obtain views of either
mountains or hills, and a platform which I constructed for the
purpose proved of no use. The surrounding land had been
denuded of trees, and the steppe was covered with burnt grass,
so that I could not add to my collections. Even the birds which
I noticed or obtained were hardly worth taking trouble about.

13. From Gosa ¥I4 ABUKAYA AND MAKRrAKA-SUcair®
TO WANpLI

THE PAPAW-TREE-A ROUNDABOUT WAY-TROOPS OF MONKEYS-GRANITE
HILLS-EXTENSIVE DURRAH-FIELDS-AFRICAN STILL-LIFE.

CLIMBING slowly out of the depression in which Gosa lay, and
passing through a very wild bushwood and by many scattered
villages, we reached the first of the low ranges of hills of
which the highest point is named Luttu; it lay at a short
distance to the left of our path, and near the small village

 

 

TROOPS OF MONKEYS. 387

of Lutomba. From this point, as far as Khor Allo (Junker's
Ollo), there was a steppe, crossed by many swampy water-
courses. There was a little wood in some places, chiefly
composed of the small-leaved Anogeissus, and the usual
species found on a steppe. The Allo itself was fifty-five feet
broad and five feet deep; it joins the Aire farther to the
north, and these two streams form the Yalo. On the rising
ground near this stream lay the Abukaya station of Manda,
surrounded by a blooming garden, in which I noticed a num-
ber of Papaw-trees amidst the usual vegetables and fruit.
A short march led us from Manda, over many rocky hills, to
the foot of the mountains, and then, instead of following the
old and certainly fatiguing road between them, which was the
shortest route to our next station, my guide determined to go
right round the mountains, in order not to tire me! - Of course
it did not matter to him that we lost a few hours by so doing.
We therefore followed the apparently never-ending mountain
chain towards the south and south-east, marching over its spurs,
which jut out into the plain and form ravines and precipices,
and going through canes and reeds, under a burning sun. After
a four hours' march, we halted for a short rest on the other side
of Khor Mendé, which was almost dry, but our guides would not
let us stay long, as they said we had still far to go, and they
were perfectly right about that!

I noticed upon the bare flanks of the mountains luxuriant
copses of a plant having the general form of a euphorbia. It
was new to me; about forty inches high, it had wing-like
appendages upon its four-sided stalk, and its flowers were red,
like an aloe. Large troops of Cercopithecus were climbing
about the rocks, led by a white-bearded male ; they were not at
all shy. Many small with clear flowing water coming
from the mountains had all a southerly direction. At midday
we had at last left the mountains behind us, at least the great
chain, and had entered cultivated fields, in the midst of which
the station of Aluginya is picturesquely situated. It is the
most northerly station in this part of the province of Makraka.
Unfortunately it was impossible for me to stay here, as pressing
duties caused me to hurry forward to Wandi.

I observed near here the granitic hills with broad white

388 GosA TO WANDL

quartz stripes which I have so often mentioned before. Many
swamps, overgrown with cutting grasses, made the march to
the station of Embe, or Nembe, very unpleasant. There were
extensive acacia groves in the neighbourhood of many of these
swamps. Elsewhere in Makrakd the acacia is rather rare.
Khor Embe has a breadth of about a hundred feet; the
water is about forty inches deep and full of sunk stones. To
the right and left of the ford it was covered with a broad
growth of papyrus. From the large open space which lay
before the huts of the station, I obtained a very good view
over the mountainous country, with its many heights and peaks
of which I had now to take leave; for the road slopes from
here into the lowlands, and only once more, at the top of a
high ridge of hills, was I able to catch a glimpse of the blue
mountain peaks. The durrah-fields, through which we marched,
were very extensive; one field joined another, occasionally
intercepted by small zones of wood or by a strip of high
steppe-grass. The only broad strip of savannah we passed
forms the boundary between the Abukaya and the Makrakd,
whose district we again entered. For more than an hour we
went through durrah-fields, till, after a long hot march, we
arrived at the village of Baginmanya, where the chief received
us hospitably. Our luggage had remained far behind, and
only arrived about sunset, so that I could not think of work,
and occupied the time by a stroll through the fields.

The road from here to Makraka-Sugaire is really only a
path leading for three hours through fields of durrah, Hyptis,
tobacco, sweet potatoes, and Colocasias. On account of the
numerous zsertbas surrounded by neatly kept fields, the neat
huts, the trees hung with bundles of maize-cobs and other
seeds, the many nets and lines for catching game, the nume-
rous Tephrosia bushes for catching fish, this part of the
country presents a very homely, hospitable appearance, which
is borne out by the polite and friendly demeanour of its inhabi-
tants. Close by the big Khor Torre, which we crossed in a
boat made out of a gigantic trunk, lay the zertbe of Makraké-
Sugaire, where we found the huts we had occupied two years
before still standing. As at that time, the brilliant sunbirds
buzzed round the flowering citron and Papaw trees;. as then,

 

 

1 nr

BACK 389

the yellow-backed widow-bird climbed about the grass; as
' then, Khor Torre rushed by-but the master of the house, who
had taken such a pride in these gardens, and who had hospitably
kept an open house for every needy one, was sleeping beneath
the sod.

After a day's rest here for the sake of the porters, the
march was again resumed. - On my former Makraksd journey,
in August 1880, we had hardly found water enough to drink
along this road ; now, however, in November, in consequence
of very heavy summer rain, all the pools were full, and most of
our time was occupied in wading through mud and water.
From the durrah-fields we heard the ery of the boys stationed
there to frighten off the elephants competing with that of
hundreds of frogs which croaked by the side of the road. The
bridge which spanned Khor Bindama, a tributary of the Torre,
had been destroyed by the high water, which we had therefore
to ford by a ledge of rock which stretched across its bed. The
steppe commences just behind the Bari villages near this kMor.
It is composed of grey loamy soil, overgrown with high grass
and a few trees, and crossed by many ; it would probably
be worth cultivating. We next reached the stony rubble
which is scattered over the ground near the station, and
then, after passing several watercourses near which bananas
were cultivated, we entered the station of Wandi, the oldest
village in the province of Makraké. At this place my route
joined that which I had previously laid down, and this year's
excursion came to an end.

( 390 ')

vI
ON THE GEOGRAPHY OPF PLANTS AND ANIMALS.

1. THE AccuImaATISATION OF Various Domestic Axiyauns
IN THE EQUATORIAL NILE REGION,.

(Letter to Professor G. Schweinfurth, dated Lado,
December 25, 1881.)

You ask after the elephants.* There are three of them, and
they are stationed in Makrakad, but are scarcely used for trans-
port at present, for want of fit persons to attend to them. It
was the greatest mistake that Gordon could have committed,
for the sake of a few guineas, to send back the attendants
that came with the elephants from India, before they had
trained other proper attendants, and to entrust them to Shiluk
soldiers, who, like all Negroes, have no interest in animals
except as articles of food. Besides, the elephants arrived here
at the time of the block in the river, when I was cut off for
eighteen months from all communication even with Khartim,
and had quite enough to do to preserve myself and my people
from destruction. In spite of most liberal promises to the
Negro chiefs, I have not yet been fortunate enough to procure
any young animals. I have no doubt that, with sufficient care
and a staff trained for the purpose, elephants would save us
much of the continual annoyance from porters.

The camels are doing well, and keep up the postal service
between Ladd and Rejaf. They will be useful to me in those
districts where there are tracts without much water. Donkeys
can only be used for a few years; even those from the Langd

* The Indian elephants (six in number) were sent by the Khedive Ismail from

Cairo to the Sudan. They travelled the long distance of two thousand miles
uninjured, swimming the Nile six times.-G. S.

 

 

<>

F

2 all

200-GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 391

J

district (where they are kept in herds for the sake of their
milk) do not last long. One of my favourite schemes is an
attempt to acclimatise buffaloes, which, in my opinion, would
be well suited to the country. Unfortunately I have not yet
been able to procure any tame buffaloes, and those in this
country, even when they are caught young and grow up with
the cows, are always rather wild. Two two-year-old cows are
here at the present moment, I have introduced rabbits,
which are doing well, and promise to thrive. A large duck
thrives, and multiplies in a remarkable manner; it is similar
to the so-called Turkish duck; I bought the original birds
from the Zanzibar Arabs settled in Uganda, and they have
spread over the whole of our province, just like the Papaw-tree.
Pigeons do not thrive everywhere, chiefly owing to the nume-
rous birds of prey, which decimate them.

2. NoTtEs.

GEOGRAPHICAL PROBLEMS OF THE AFRICAN TROPICAL FAUNA-LIMITS OF
WALLACE'S Z00-GEOGRAPHICAL REGIONS-MIGRATION OF ANIMALS AND»
ITS CAUSES-AFRICAN AND EUROPEAN BIRDS OF PASSAGE- DIVERSITY
OF THEIR MIGRATIONS-SOUTHERN LIMHT OF EUROPEAN VISITORS-
MIGRATING FISHES-GREAT LINE OF SEPARATION FROM SOUTH-EAST
TO NORTH-WEST-THE REGION OF STEPPES AND FORESTS OF THE
BAHR-EL-JEBEL - ANIMALS CHARACTERISTIC OF THE STEPPES AND
FORESTS-THE GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE GREY PARROT-
THE CHIMPANZEE-SCARCITY OF BIRDS OF PREY.

 

LADd, December 1884.
ThE study of the tropical fauna of Africa has in many respects
peculiar claims on our attention ; for, in the first place, forms
most closely connected with those characteristic of it at the
present time, appear in the miocene deposits of Europe, so that
this fauna occupies a most exceptional position as regards its
antiquity, geological antiquity I might say, compared with the
existing types of later date. And, indeed, the camelopard,
hippopotamus, Orycteropus (Cape ant-eater), and others be-
longing to a period of creation long passed away, intrude
as anomalies into our times. But it is not antiquity alone

392 700-CGEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

which lends a charm of their own to such considerations;
various and manifold are the unsolved questions relating to
the distribution of individual families, the physical conditions
which have brought about their migrations, the apparently
spontaneous appearance of forms in places where they are
separated from all their relations by large tracts of country,
and finally the coincidence or otherwise of faunistic with floral
regions.

Whereas the almost total absence of palsgontological evidence
from Central Africa renders it impossible to enter upon ques-
tions of evolution, and the very incomplete acquaintance with
even the existing animal life of this region permits as yet no
generalisations, it is the more desirable to compensate in some
measure for this deficiency by work in detail, _ First and
foremost in this work is, of course, the compilation of accurate
special lists for cireumscribed divisions of the country as a
basis for a general survey. The material for such work is
only gained by diligent collecting. But another exceedingly
profitable task offers itself to the explorer in the application
of the collected facts to zoo-geographical purposes. Wallace
has defined the zoological provinces of the African continent
with a master hand, and, on the whole, there is nothing to
alter or find fault with in his arrangement. We have next to
ascertain how the boundaries of these provinces are situated
with regard to one another, at which parallels of latitude
and longitude the transitions take place, and whether they
are sharply pronounced or become gradually perceptible. As a
matter of course, there are numerous questions connected with
this inquiry concerning the relation between the physical for-
mation of the country, its vegetation, and its fauna.

While, from what has been said, it is evident that a large
and productive field awaits the worker, it must be clearly
understood that the following lines, which relate to a very
limited region, are only an attempt to contribute some little to
the solution of debated questions, and that they were written
in the heart of Africa. Moreover, the data given are confined
chiefly to ornithological facts, because the birds of the country
have been more thoroughly investigated than other animals.

If migration be taken in its widest sense as a periodical

 

MIGRATION OF BIRDS. 393

removal from one place to another, it may be asserted that the
greater part of the animals of Africa are forced to make such
changes. The difference in the commencement of the rainy
season throughout the grassy or wooded uplands, both north
and south of the equator, naturally influences the ripening of
fruits and the development of insect life, upon which the higher
classes of animals depend for subsistence. - Hence arises the
necessity for the latter to leave tracts which are beginning to
get dry, and to go in search of others which yield the necessary
means of subsistence in greater abundance. A good example
of this wandering caused by the necessity of finding food is
afforded in the Chrysospizsa lutea, Licht., which frequents the
steppe in flocks at the first commencement of the summer
rain, and builds its nests in the acacia brushwood, but, as soon
as the steppe becomes withered and dry, collects in small com-
panies and removes to the banks of the larger rivers and brooks,
visiting even towns and villages. These birds may thus be
seen in the winter months by hundreds in Khartim, together
with Passer domesticus, L. - The same is true of some weaver-
birds. It is, then, quite natural that, when the steppe yields
no more food, its feathered inhabitants should retire, in part at
least, to the south, where an abundant feast awaits them. I
mention as a well-known example Hyp/hantica ethiopica, Sund.,
which in summer frequents the tablelands of Kordofan, Sen-
nar, and Takale, but in the winter chooses for its abode the
region between Sobat and the 4th parallel of N. lat., be-
cause the beds of rushes in this tract supply suitable dwell-
ings and food. But besides the need of food, which causes
birds as well as all other animals to change their residence,
it must be remembered that limited districts, which are able in
ordinary times to harbour &a certain number of birds, become
too small for them, particularly in the breeding season, because,
on the one hand, each pair demands a larger space, and on the
other, the consumption, of insects especially, is considerably
increased. Hence results a movement which in our territory
is chiefly from south to north, though migrations to the south
are not unknown.

It would be superfluous to give examples of this movement
from south to north ; all that have hitherto been called African

394 700-GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

birds of passage belong to this class. _ It will therefore suffice if I
refer to the Poliornis rufipenmis, Strick., a bird of prey ; to Hury-
stomus, Merops, Hyphantornis and Euplectes, besides Chryso-
coccyx and Oxylophus, and many waders. It will be more
interesting to call to mind a variety which periodically disperses
to the south as well as to the north, such as Coturniz Delegorguet,
Delg. - Like many other birds, this elegant quail seems to have
its proper abode in the district lying between the lakes, for I was
able to collect specimens of it there all through the year, both
hatching their eggs and also as young and fully grown birds.
Their proper home may be considered to lie between the third
parallels of latitude on either side of the equator; from this region
however, large flocks start on their migrations to the north and
south ; to the north when the summer rains clothe the steppes
with verdure and food is not wanting for the young ones, to
the south when the country in the north is bare and scorched,
and when in their proper home a scarcity of seeds arises from
a short period of repose in the vegetation. So we find these
birds in February in South Africa, even beyond the. 25th
parallel, while in September they collect in Kordofan under 14°
N. lat. Turniz lepwrana, Sm., also seems to make rather
distant migrations. - But, with regard to all these movements,
it must be remembered that though large numbers of the birds
mentioned leave their proper haunts for certain periods, as
many individuals and pairs remain behind as can find subsist-
ence without too much difficulty. And herein lies the chief
difference between such local wanderings and those of the real
birds of passage from other continents, which change their
quarters temporarily and periodically without leaving behind
any individuals of their kind except those that are sick or
incapable of long flights. Moreover, these movements among
our birds are almost exclusively confined to the inhabitants of
the brushwood and the steppe, while the occupants of the real
forests never change their dwellings, at least with very few
exceptions.

Now, while we cannot speak of real migrations among our
indigenous feathered tribes, Europe and Asia send us a con-
siderable number of guests; many of them remain in the
northern part of the continent, but a large number reach the

 

EUROPEAN VISITORS. 395

tropics in their flight. - Singularly enough, these are not always
the most active flyers. I have been able to collect corn-crakes
(Crex pratensis, Bechst.) even by the Albert Lake at about 2° N.
lat. ; but those that come as far as these regions are almost
without exception feeders on insects, while the feeders on corn
are wont to stay farther north. - Wading and swimming birds
are also comparatively poorly represented. What laws regu-
late the diffusion of these winter guests, why particular varieties
push on so extraordinarily far towards the south, while others,
though physically stronger, remain far behind them, aro at the
present time unsettled questions; only when we are in posses-
sion of observations extending over many years, and of special
data concerning the distribution of the wanderers during winter,
with constant regard to the climatic conditions of this country
at the time of their arrival, shall we be able to form an opinion
on this question. For the present it is our duty to confine
ourselves to the registration of facts, such as the occurrence of
the nightingale (Luscinia philomela, Bechst.) in Latika and
Makrakd, of the redstart (Ruttcilliae phoenicurus, L.) in Rejaf,
west Makrakaé, as far as 4° N. lat., and of the reed warblers
(Calamoherpe arundinacea, Gm., and C. palustris, Bechst.) as
far even as 2° N:; lat.

On the other hand, storks and cranes never reach us, and
in the course of years I have only once collected a specimen
of Ciconia alba below 6° 35' N. lat., which no doubt had lost
its way. The same winter the Egyptian vulture (Neophron
perenopterus, L.) and Himantopus autumnalis, Hass., were
common here, though they do not appear every winter; it
may, therefore, have been due to an abnormal winter in the
north. _ With regard to the arrival and departure of birds of
passage to and from this country, it may be remarked that
the end of September and October are the months in which
they arrive. Thus in the present year the yellow wagtail
(Budytes flava, var. cinereocapilla, Sav.) was first noticed on
October oth. The time of departure is protracted, and falls
between February and April. On April 21, 1884, I caught
a cuckoo (Cuculus canmnorus, L.) in Lado.

We have as yet scarcely any information about the move-
ments of other classes of animals in the tropics. That migra-

396 700-0GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

tions actually take place among the fishes for spawning pur-
poses, I was able to convince myself at the rapids of the river
Rol, near Mvolo, where twice a year a movement of immense
shoals of fish goes on up and down stream, an occurrence which
is well known to the natives, and much desired by them, for
it supplies the country far and wide with fish. I observed the
fish moving down to the north at the end of October, while
the contrary movement takes place, according to the statement
of those who dwell there, in June.

Let us now turn our attention to another series of pheno-
mena, which are the more interesting because they exhibit
facts which seem to be opposed to the universal rules of the
distribution of animals; I mean the appearance of certain
species in localities where they are separated from their nearest
relations by very long tracts, sometimes by whole continents.
Such cases are to be found in Europe in the presence of
Cyanopica cyamea, Pall., in Siberia, whilst their nearest rela-
tions (Cyanopica Cooki) reside in Spain, of Myogale moschata
in Russia, and of M. pyremnaica in the Pyrenees, while no
species even allied to them exists in the intervening countries.
An entirely similar instance is afforded by the appearance
of the Angola magpie (Pifta angolensis) in a limited district of
West Africa, while the genus Pitta most essentially belongs
to Wallace's oriental region, between which two haunts beside
the ocean, lies the whole breadth of the African continent.
The same holds good of (tufted-tailed porcupine)
and the West African representatives of the Tragulids; both
genera are properly oriental.

Now, as it is so difficult to account for such very exceptional
cases, they must challenge us to an exact study of the interven-
ing regions; and that surprising disclosures may often be found
there is shown by the following facts:-According to my
experience, is by no means rare in Central Africa,
and is fairly equally distributed ; in Monbuttu I succeeded in
collecting within a short time a number of living specimens.
In contradistinction to nond@, the common variety of porcu-
pine (Hystrix) which is found beside it, it is called XoliG,
and its region may at present, as far as my experience goes, be
defined as extending northwards to about 3° 40' N. lat., and

_E

aC

LINKS BETWEEN EAST AND WEST. 397

eastwards to 28° 50' E. long. - But I do not doubt that, as
regards its eastern limit, a much greater extension may be
revealed by further investigations, for in former journeys I have
found even at 31° E. long. forms of vegetation which decidedly
belonged to the western tropics. If, then, such an advance
towards the east should be confirmed, of which I have no doubt,
a connexion will thus be formed with hitherto apparently
isolated representatives of the same species in the west. It
seems to me more than probable, from instances I have seen,
that a representative of the Tragulids exists in Monbuttu; and
I have also been told of a variety of Lemuridse. The fauna of
Central Africa is yet too little known to be applied to the
elucidation of disputed points, but it seems as if the soil of the
Black Continent is able to furnish reasons for all apparent
exceptions, and connecting-links for all broken chains. Not
long ago Anomalurus, the West African representative of the
flying squirrel, was a completely isolated phenomenon, until
Peters described the Anomalurus orientalis of Zanzibar from
«Hildebrand's specimens. Now, I have found a new species of
the same kind in Monbuttu, whereby the chain is completed
from one side of the continent to the other. - The northern
limit of this interesting variety may extend in the western
division of our territory to about 4° N. lat., but then it turns
in a long curve to the south-south-east, following the boundaries
of the true forest region.

What has been affirmed with regard to certain Mammalia
is of course true of other classes of animals, and especially of
birds,. Whenever the same species has appeared isolated in
the west and east, the north and south, we are quite justified
in searching for their connecting links in our territory. - Melo-
cichla mentalis, Fras., was till now known only in diametrically
opposite places, namely, the Gold and Loango coasts on the one
side, and Ukamba in East Africa on the other; yet it belongs
to a family spread over the whole of Central Africa. Macronyz
croceus, Vieill., is cited by Heuglin and Antinori as a case of
complete isolation in the Bahr-el-Ghazal region, though the
bird is commonly seen southwards from 6° N. lat, It would
therefore be by no means strange if continued collecting rendered
the isolation of Pitts angolensis doubtful by the discovery of

398 700-GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

allied varieties, and to this end the regions of moist, warm,
dense forests should chiefly be searched. _ Heuglin, though
furnished with comparatively insuflicient material, has already
pointed out that, as we advance from the north in the direction
of the equator, the affinities of the north-eastern fauna with
that of the west, and even of the south, grow more numerous,

that is, a number of varieties formerly believed to belong -

exclusively to the west spread themselves much farther to
the cast than has generally been supposed. . My own col-
lections confirm this opinion most thoroughly, and I will
attempt to show that the reason of it is to be found in the
physical formation of the country and the vegetation which
clothes it.

Soon after the Bahr-el-Jebel has passed the rocky defile of
Jinja, after leaving the Victoria Lake, and has spread itself
out in the wide alluvial plains of eastern Unydro into a series
of shallow, lake-like basins, it is again confined by mountain
ranges, and flows between high rocky banks over a succession
of steps, which form rapids, to the Mwutan Nzige or Albert
Lake. - Except the extensive swampy flats to the east of
Mriali, which are exposed to the inundations of the river,
and the equally flat tracts of the southern Langé district,
which in some places extend to the river, and are covered
with a vegetation of grass and papyrus peculiar to such boggy
districts, both banks of the river are overgown with thick
forest. On the northern bank, in consequence of less abun-
dant irrigation, greater declivity, and a very insignificant
thickness of surface soil, the leathery-leaved and stiff forms
of northern vegetation prevail, which are not affected by tem-
porary droughts. 'The southern bank, on the contrary, pre-
sents a succulent verdure, and a rich display of foliage
belonging to tropical species and dependent on constant
moisture. Though the region between the lakes, a decidedly
mountainous country, cannot produce the exuberant vegetation
of the western tropics, owing to its elevation, yet the dews,
continuing all through the year without intermission, and the
exceedingly rich and well-watered soil, supply a basis for a
considerable development of vegetable growth. Besides the
imposing representatives of northern latitudes, the Ficus, Bal-

Mbp

TTC

QOYERLAPPING OF FAUNAS, 399

J

- samodendron, Cratzeva, and Combretum, the following genera

are found here:-The Protea of Abyssinia, Anona, Hexalobus,
Coffea, Dracsena, and, above all, miles of banana plantations.
As the Victoria Nile forms a boundary between the languages
of the northern Negro races and those of the Bantu tribes, so
also it marks the line where the cultivation of corn in the
north ceases, and sweet potatoes become the foundation of
human sustenance. Generally speaking, the flora of the region
under consideration forms an integral part (as Grant's collec-
tions in particular show) of the large and yet so uniform vege-
tation of the North African region, which fact explains, for
instance, the remarkable scarcity of palms in this country, the
common Phcenix, Borassus (rarer in general towards the equa-
tor), and Calamus being the only palms known at present.
But a number of West African varieties also occur, probably
attaining here their eastern limit, and marking out this country
as a region of transition. t

This position, however, is more unmistakable as regards the
fauna. - Unfortunately, little is known of Mammalia; it may
therefore be sufficient to allude to the frequent occurrence of
Aonyx, and to mention that during my sojourn in Uganda
and Unyoro I was repeatedly told of a large anthropoid ape,
which the Wagianda called masiki, and the Wanyoro kin-
yabantu. - But as, in spite of all my efforts, I did not succeed
in obtaining a specimen, its existence in the Nile basin proper
remains unverified. The case is different with birds. Besides
the species and forms distributed generally over the East
African sub-region, a large number of distinctly western kinds
are found, of which I will mention Campephaga phenicea, Sw.;
T'richolais caniceps, Cass. ; Telephonus minutus, Hartl. ; Tricho-
phorus flavigqula, Cab.; Spermestes cucullatus, Sw.; Agapornis
pullaria, L.; and in particular the very common Psiffacus ery-
thacus, L. While it is thus sufficiently proved that the West
African fauna extends to this country, we find, on the other
hand, a number of true East African types which seem not to
appear again farther westwards. I will only mention Coracias
caudata, L.; Phyllostrephus Sharpei, Sh.; Buceros eristatus, Riipp. ;
Pionias ruftventris, Rupp.; Schizorhis leucogastra, Riipp.; and
Francolinus G@rantii, Hartl. The district between the lakes must,

400 7200-GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

therefore, be considered neutral ground, as it were, on which
representatives of different zoological regions meet: if we go .
westwards, the West African type of fauna and flora becomes
continually more prominent ; if we go eastwards, we meet the (
well-defined forms of the southern Somal district, and more
isolated instances of the forms of the southern half of tropical _
East Africa. It is not necessary for me to point out how g
exceptionally profitable a thorough exploration of this region
would be. }
Let us now follow the Bahr-el-Jebel in its farther northern
reaches. It flows out of the Albert Lake as a majestic stream,
accompanied on either side by mountain ranges running at a
greater or less distance from its margin, and at length ap-
proaching close to it in the Madi district, where they confine
its bed and give rise to a series of falls and rapids between
3° 40 and 4° 40° N. Farther to the north, these mountain-
chains trend to the west and east, leaving the valley of the
river considerably broader and larger, Only solitary moun-
tain groups rise here and there almost abruptly from the level
country, until at last, still farther northwards, the endless
swamps commence, in which the river, now without banks, is
involved up to its confluence with the Bahr-el-Ghazal. In
accordance with the character of the mountains, the detritus
of which constitutes for the most part the plains beside the
river, the soil of the valley is not rich. Sand, often mixed
with loam, and red clay impregnated with iron, which covers
more elevated parts, are not adapted to develop a particularly
luxuriant vegetation. Hence it will be seen that the whole
river-valley of the Bahr-el-Jebel, up to the Albert Lake, must
be included in the domain of the steppes,-not the sandy
steppes of southern Kordofan, nor the extensive savannahs of
the eastern Sudan, but wooded steppes, where beautiful forms,
such as Tamarindus, Khaya, Odina, Anogeissus, Bassia, and
Stereospermum attain to full perfection, and Acacia, Zizyphus,
Balanites, Sarcocephalus, Gardenia, &e., are most prominent. The
farther we go from the river westwards, the more perceptible
does the transformation become, the more striking the resem-
blance with the sandy plateaux and steppes of the Somal country.
The whole Langé district, starting from the eastern frontier of

 

EAST OF THE NILE. 401

Latika, and extending as far south as Usidga, may be com-
pared to certain tracts of Kordofan which contain scattered,
bare mountain groups, sandy steppes, reservoirs of water, and
a nomadic population.

Following the configuration of the country, the limits of
certain forms of vegetation run here much farther to the south
than they do to the west of the river or in the river-valley itself.
In the latter, for instance, the dum palm (HZyphone thebaica)
reaches its southern limit at 5° 20' N. lat., while in Latika I
have seen woods of it, and then it has been found following a
large curve to the south-east. In the east, also, a Lawsonia is
common, which I could not distinguish from Lawsonia inermis,*
also Calotropis procera, Leptadenia pyrotechnic«a, and on the
margins of rain-torrents a tamarisk-all of them trees which
do not appear at all in our country proper, or, like Calotropis,
but seldom.

While the plants just mentioned suffice to determine the
botanical status of the country, its fauna also is peculiar to
itself. - Besides Equus zebre and H. Burchellii, thero are
antelopes, giraffes, various kinds of hares, Lycaor pictus, of
Edentata, Orycteropus, and Manis, of monkeys, Theropithecus,
and a species, perhaps new, of Cercopithecus, which give the
country a character of its own. With the exception of the
monkeys, which are, of course, restricted to the forest, whether
open steppe forest or connected woodlands, they are all true
inhabitants of the steppe, and therefore on the western bank
of the Bahr-el-Jebel they appear only in the flat country
as far as the skirts of the mountains, but entirely avoid their
slopes. The extraordinary abundance of elephants in the
east may be connected partly with the occurrence of forests
of Balanites, but, on the other hand, considering the scanty
supplies of water towards the east, may be due to the fact that
the animal is capable of long marches, and in the dry season
retires to the broad swamps of the Ber country, which never
dry up, and to the swamps on the northern frontier of Usoga,
where he defies all pursuit. What is true of the Mammalia
must, of course, also hold good of the birds, and we must next

* A fact of great importance as regards the origin of this widespread object of

cultivation. -G. S.
2C

402 700-GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

look for true steppe birds in the eastern division of our country,
although we shall also meet with forms which have hitherto
been known as belonging exclusively to the east. Among the
former, the ostrich ought to rank first; it is always found
wandering about in flocks, of often thirty birds; it keeps
strictly to the steppe, especially where covered with brushwood,
and avoids altogether forest, mountain lands, and damp tracts.
From the class of birds of prey it may suffice to select Melieraz
polyzonus, Riipp.; Helotarsus ecaudatus, Daud. ; and Poliornis
rufipennis, Strickl., the last of which has its proper home here.
I am astonished at never having yet met with the bird of
the steppe par excellence, Gypogeranus serpentarius, Li., though I
have no doubt of its existence here. As a matter of course,
all the birds dwelling in the steppe region farther to the north
frequent also our southern steppes, and therefore no special
enumeration of them is necessary, for they consist for the most
part of forms widely distributed over Africa. Turning to the
purely eastern varieties, we first of all come across Schizorhis
leucogastra, Riipp., which even in Latika replaces Schizorhis
zonura, Riipp. (a native of all other parts), and is the prevailing
form far down to the south (Uggnda). Its western limit
may be laid down at 32° 30° E. long. 'The following are also
purely eastern birds :-Dryoscopus migerrimus, Reich.; per-
mestes camiceps, Reich.; Crithagra chloropsis, Cab.; Caprimulgus
inornatus, Heugl., all of which are caught in Liatiks. It
must further be remarked that none of these eastern species
cross to the western side of the Bahr-el-Jebel valley ; on the
contrary, several do not even reach it, but confine themselves
to the eastern slope of the mountains of Obbo.

The circumstances connected with the flora and fauna of
the western side of the river do not assume such a simple
form. As already stated, there is here also a chain of moun-
tains running from the lake towards the north, at a greater or
less distance from the river. At about 4° 8' N. lat. this range
leaves the river, and, gradually decreasing in height, runs in a
north-westerly direction to the Bahr-el-Ghazal ; all the country
lying to the north and east of this chain, consequently the whole
triangle formed by it, the Bahr-el-Ghazal, and the Bahr-el-J. ebel,
belongs to the steppe domain, and the fauna assumes a corre-

d

 

inne

THE REGION OF FORESTS, 403

sponding character. But all the Mammalia we have mentioned
are found again here except zebras, which appear to be totally
absent; ostriches also are frequent, at any rate to the west in
the Jangée (Dinka) country, while in the eastern division of
the region in question they are rarities, no doubt because the
country is swampy and densely populated in its dry parts.
The distribution of the ostrich, therefore, is regulated by the
line of demarcation between steppe and forest, and this applies
also to the Manis Temminckit. Both are absent in Uginda,
Unyoro, Kalika, Monbuttu, Makraksa, and the countries of
the Jur and Bongo, as well as in Dar-Fertit, while they are
common in the adjacent Dinka countries, in Latuka, and in
the whole of the Shuli and Lango districts, The same is true
of the giraffe.

Ascending from the plain, we leave the steppe and come
next to the real forest region, into which, however, the steppe
often intrudes, generally in long ribbon or wedge shaped strips.
Probably the largest part of our territory is covered with
brushwood (open and generally low woods), where, however,
tall trees are not altogether wanting. But it is seldom that
dense woods of one kind of tree are seen, and it is the absence
of these which makes our woods seem open and straggling, at
any rate in the eyes of a northerner. - Real forest, closely
packed woodlands, where a man may roam for hours and days
together without being reached by a ray of sunlight or feeling
a single drop of rain, extend into our territory only on the
south and west, and correspond completely with the reports of
Livingstone and Stanley concerning the south and its impene-
trable forests. A connecting-link, as it were, between these
two kinds of forest is formed by the belts of wood along the
margins of watercourses, in which all the vigour and splendour
of tropical vegetation are displayed.

It is apparently strange that, the farther we advance west-
wards the farther do these belts extend northwards, so that, for
instance, while in the east the Victoria Nile seems to be their
northern limit, and they are consequently restricted to Uganda
and Unyoro, they are found again in the west of Makraka, that
is, more than two degrees farther to the north. This apparent
anomaly may be explained by the fact that the main lines of de-

404 7200-GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

marcation in the whole of our territory, both for the vegetation

and the fauna, run nearly from south-east to north-west, and the _

purely southern forms extend farther northwards in the west

than in the east. I learn from Lupton Bey that he has found |
numbers of Elais (oil) palms in the west of the Bahr-el-Ghazal _

basin, even in 6° N. lat., which first appear in our territory at
3° 40' N. lat. I have myself found in the Makraké territory,
in 4° 45' N. lat., Calamus secundiflorus and Pandanus, the
former of which does not cross 2° 20' N. lat. farther to the
east, whilst the latter is wanting altogether. It is clear that
this striking variation of limits along the parallels of latitude is
determined by the differences of altitude and climate in the
region under consideration. As the boundary-line follows very
nearly the western slope of the ranges before mentioned, the
richer vegetation must be ascribed simply to more abundant
dews, inundation, and saturation of the soil, the existence of
such motive forces being proved by Casati's meteorological
records from Monbuttu, and more especially by Junker's carto-
graphical labours.

The flora naturally harmonises with the fauna, and as the
western and southern varieties of plants penetrate much farther
northwards than has been supposed, corresponding animal
species will go hand in hand with them. - Omitting altogether
older varieties, already cited by Heuglin, such as Agapornis,
which is not rare, but, on the contrary, very common, I will only
refer to some forms in my last collections from Monbuttu,-
Turacus giganteus, Vieill.; Musophaga, sp. n. ; Corythaix persa,
L.; Spermospiza heematina, Vieill.; Pyrenestes ostrinus, L.;
and from Makrakd, still farther north, Nectarinia cyanocephala,
Sh.; Pytelia Monteirii, Hartl.; Hyphantornis ccularis, Sm.;
Megalcoema bilineata, Sund., and several kinds of Trichophorus.

As a result of all the facts now collected, the limit of
Wallace's " West African sub-region" must be pushed very
considerably to the east, and finds its natural boundary in the
mountains, which, starting from the Albert Lake, form on the
one hand the highlands of Amadi and Logo on the west and
north, and on the other send out spurs towards the north-
north-west, and subsequently to the north-west, which have
already been alluded to several times as the boundaries of the

 

 

|

f

t

BAEC T -.-

THE GREY PARROT AND THE CHIMPANZEE. 403

steppe and forest region. - Joining this region, which harbours
purely western and partly also southern species of plants and
animals, is the district between the lakes, to a certain extent
a neutral transition ground, where eastern and western varie-
ties meet. The close affinity between the two regions will be
best demonstrated by a short review of the most prominent
animals peculiar to them.

Let us take first the grey parrot, Psittacus erythacus, LL., the
northern limit of which passes right through our territory.
From Usoga, where the bird is common, according to the
assertions of the natives, it passes in a deep south-westerly
curve round the large swamps in the north-eastern part of
Unyoro, then bends farther northwards, and for the rest of
Unyoro remains at 2° N. lat., along which parallel it crosses
the Albert Lake. After this, its northern limit is uncertain-
we have here to deal with regions entirely unexplored-until
it reappears in Monbuttu, and follows very nearly the course
of the Bomokandi or Mayo, reaching the Welle-Makua at one
point only, and crossing it where the large banana and oil-
palm forests at the great bend of the river in the A-Madi
district furnish a suitable abode. Beyond the mouth of the
Bomokandi, it appears to advance much farther to the north,
for Lupton Bey writes me that it is not uncommon in Dar-
Abu-Dinga, and to the west of that place, that is, somewhere
between 5°%-6° N. lat. This accords with its appearance so far
north as Lake Chad, where it has been caught by Denham.
In this case also the line running from south-east to north-
west is followed.

While it is definitely proved that the grey parrot reaches
the Nile basin, as I have seen it frequently in Uganda and the
adjacent countries, this is still an open question as regards the
chimpanzee. - Its existence in the country proper of the sources
of the Nile is still problematical. All the more frequent is it
in the basin of the Welle-Makua. - Throughout Monbuttu and
the wide A-Zande district, wherever large stretches of forest
or belts of wood afford sufficient space and suitable trees, the
chimpanzee will not be sought in vain. - It passes then far up
northwards with the forests, and Dr. Junker reports that it is
also common in the west, in the region of the A-Babua, for

406 7200-GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

instance. - It builds its sleeping nests of branches and leaves
in the highest and strongest trees, and stays in them till late
in the morning.

While it has been thus demonstrated that the boundary-lines
of the vegetation coincide for the most part with those of the
fauna, it is natural to expect that other facts relating to this
subject will be found in our territory. _ It is known that birds
of prey are rare in the proper forest region, and this has been
proved to correspond with their distribution towards the south.
Except in Uginda, where daily executions supply the neces-
saries of life to a considerable number of vultures, the regions
to the south of 4° N. lat. are poor in birds of prey, unless they
are steppe regions. In Monbuttu, where no cattle are kept, I
only saw a single vulture, which, on the bank of the Kibali,
was probably pondering over the competition of the population.
The commonest bird of prey there is Asturinulae monogrammica,
Temm., which lives on Already in Makraki
Milvus parasiticus, Forsk., is rare, though elsewhere it is one
of the plagues of our country. Where the forest region begins,
the carrion vultures, the eagles, Melierax, Poliornis, and others,
almost entirely disappear, because their food is only found in
open country.

Were the boundaries between steppe and forest, as well as
between their connecting-links, everywhere sharply defined, we
should be able to draw direct inferences from the vegetation of
a country as to the nature of its fauna. But this is not the
case; on the contrary, the various regions run so much into
one another that a real separation is impossible, and hence it
happens that in every locality which admits of it we find the
inhabitants of two different regions intermingled. Thus Mon-
buttu, belonging to the western region, besides harbouring the
purely western animals, supplies us with a number of animals
that have long been known to us in the East African region.
Thus, too, the inhabitants of the south and west push as far
north and east as the conditions of climate and sustenance
allow them, and the occurrence of such species comparatively
far to the north seems to depend only on the possibility of
their procuring suitable food, viz., on vegetation, climate, and
elevation. - But why certain species of animals inhabit a well-

 

NEED OF FURTHER RESEARCH. 407

defined and very restricted country, never crossing its limits,
consequently occupying a position of isolation with regard to
their kindred, cannot be explained without special investiga-
tions, which do not lise within the range of these general
observations, and which will be better worked out in the light
of later notes concerning the distribution of individual genera.

YI,

oN THE STATE OF CIYVILISATION AND ON
POLITICS:.

t=-IHE tx Ths Provincs: or Rout imm i18§:.
(From a Letter to Professor G. Schweinfurth.)

DANAGLA -MISRULE-STATISTICS-PARASITICAL STRANGERS-SLAVE MUR-
DER BY THE DANAGLA-ROBBERY, PLUNDERING, AND THE SLAVE-
TRADE-STATISTICS OF THE SLAVES IN AYAK-THE SHAMEFUL CONDLI-
TION OF RUMBEK-ISLAM MAKES NO PROSELYTES.

TRAVELLING straight across the northerly part of the Nyambara
country, we arrived at Biti, which is situated some two hours'
march from Amadi, and here we shall have to remain for a few
days. Since this part of the country was taken out of the
hands of the Khartim trading companies, it has yielded abso-
lutely nothing to the Government, except the ivory obtained
from Monbuttu. The abundant imports of corn of various
kinds, honey, wax, sesame oil, and fat of the Butyrospermum,
have been shamefully squandered and wasted, the rearing of
cattle has been put an end to, and the people have been first
plundered and then sold in troops as slaves. They have been
driven from Monbuttu to this place like beasts for slaughter,
What I used to see in Bor and Ladd when I was a novice in the
service, and when there were no restrictions on the slave-trade,
was mere child's-play compared with what goes on at these
zeribas, inhabited and controlled exclusively by Danagla ; for
here slave-raiding is quite openly and systematically carried on.

STATISTICS OF AMADL 409

The various factors which are at work here may be seen from
the following statistical abstract :-

I. Danagla* (Autterie), or irregular soldiers in Govern-

ment employ . # 8 40

II. Danagla in or near Amadi, who are not employ ed by
Government t > $ . 96
III. So-called Dragomans, far ukh basmgm &c. t i ~* 319
455

According to these statistics, the unproductive population
in and around Amadi numbers, say, 455 men, and if we
add to these their concubines, lawful wives, and wives of the
second rank, and the female slaves, boys for carrying guns
and water-bottles (rekwa@), children, '&e., a total of about
four on an average to each man, these "lilies of the field "
must amount, at the lowest estimate, to 2200. When
I use the expression ushurie, i.e., tithe-payers, it must not
be thought that these people pay taxes of a tenth or even
of a thousandth part to the Government-I at least know
nothing of such payments. They pay nothing; they only take
whatever they can lay hands on; and the euphemistic name
has been given to them by the person who drew up the report
which I copy, not by me. That this man knows how to round
off a neat sentence well is proved by a note which he adds after
the names of the fukis:-" Hali an es séinaé munkdta'a lillah
teala," 4.¢., " Without any occupation, depending upon God the
Almighty for support." Now, as the population of the Amadi
district is, at the most, from eight to ten thousand, the crying
evil of this state of affairs is obvious. No cattle are kept-that
was prevented long ago; there is scarcely any hunting; so that

* Danagla is the plural of Dongolaui= Nubians from Dongola. They were
once the armed employés of the Khartim merchants, and when the trade in ivory
was taken over by the Egyptian Government they were enlisted as irregular
soldiers. A company of them is called a Autterie. " Dragomans" are freed
slaves, who are employed as police-soldiers, and negotiate with the natives. The
basingers are armed slaves who accompany the traders as an escort; their gun-
boys are called farukh, which name is also given to mercenaries hired as
irregular troops at Khartim.-R. W. F.

*+ They included 27 Danagla without any occupation, 46 ushurie (tithe-pay ers),
13 pedlars or traders, 1 tailor, 1 boatman, and 8 fakis.

+ Namely, 145 Monbuttu, 76 Mord, 51 Nyam-Nyam, 38 Mittu, 6 Bongo, and
5 Agar.

410 ZERIBAS IN THE PROVINCE OF ROL.

nothing is left but the cultivation of corn, which, besides serving
as food, has to furnish the material from which to distil brandy,
which practice has unfortunately taken root and is in full swing
among the natives.

It might have been supposed that, in order to secure for
the Danagla a comfortable existence, at the expense of the in-
habitants, the latter (the producers) would at least have been left
in peace. - Far from it. - During the first two days of my stay
here, the Negro chiefs, living in the immediate neighbour-
hood, complained to me that some of their people-mostly
women and girls-had been stolen to the number of two
hundred and forty. - These figures do not include the numerous
Monbuttu, eighty-five of whom (mostly girls) claimed and
received their freedom on the day of my arrival; and about
two hundred slaves belonging to other tribes, who at once
returned to their relatives. In the course of a few days the
. number of Monbuttu who were set at liberty, and at once sent
home to Makraks, amounted to two hundred and one. Not-
withstanding all this, greater surprises awaited me. I received
a report from the Monbuttu people in Makraks, that a J@ki,
residing there, Mohammed Salih of Bornu, who had been
imprisoned for slave-dealing in Gordon's time, but soon set at
liberty, had gone to Monbuttu, and with the help of an escort
of six armed slaves, had taken away twenty-six persons, and
brought them to Makraka. The f@ki and his prey were very
soon brought before me; there were nineteen young boys, five
girls, and two children of four to six years of age. My ex-
amination proved that the fwki had gone by unfrequented
paths from village to village, and had obtained these twenty-
six individuals, partly by false representations, partly by open
violence. Of course it did not occur to the governor of the
district, Rakhit Bey, who happened to be at the time at
Kabayéndi, to imprison this man-hunter, although he had him
brought before him, and reprimanded him for coming into the
station by night!! And I am expected to perform wonders.
with such officials! Naturally, I at once took precautions to
render the recurrence of such an affair impossible.

The station of Bufil being very remote, my visit was wholly
unexpected, and therefore occasioned quite a panic. Nobody

 

STATISTICS OF AYAK. 411

seemed to have any idea of getting a living except by plunder
and the slave-trade. On the very first day of my visit two
hundred slaves were reclaimed by their relations. - More than
five hundred carrier-loads of corn have been sent here by the
natives during the last few weeks, and squandered. The maga-
zine is now quite empty ; the people complain of hunger, and at
the same time wander about the station drunk,. A certain Abd-
el-Kher, an official here, has himself collected not less than
eighty-four slaves, while the number of those reclaimed in two
days from the immediate neighbourhood is about four hundred,
besides the Monbuttu who have been restored to their chief,
Gambari. Of course I have made a great stir among this
rabble, and think now that the Negroes will have a little
peace, and will entertain more respect for the Government
than they have done hitherto.

Ayak, one of the oldest settlements of the Danagla, and one
of the strongest bulwarks of the slave-market, was governed
by a certain Defa'allah, who, in spite of his most glaring and
cruelly bad treatment of the Agar-Negroes, and in spite of
having connived at robbery and murder, has contrived to
maintain himself here for years-how I do not care to discuss.
He was hated and feared by all the Negroes. Shortly before
my arrival, this exemplary governor had hunted up over four
hundred slaves of both sexes and all ages, belonging to the
neighbouring Agar, Kich, Atwot, and Mandari. About two
hundred of the choicest boys and girls had been concealed by
trusted chiefs in the small zertbas of the so-called Dragomans,
and about fifty Monbuttu who presented themselves to me were
said to have been voluntarily set free. If we reckon to these, at
a low estimate, from seven to eight hundred slaves present in the
station, it gives in round numbers 1500 persons, a number
certainly about one-third under the mark.

If we summarise the inhabitants of Ayak, we find them to
be as follows :-

Pedlars (one of them a Greek) . s *
Persons without any employment _ . gy
Ushurie _ . s ¥ ¥ s . x: 57.
Irregular soldiers eus A s f: 30

413 ZERIBAS IN THE PROVINCE OF ROL,

This gives 151 masters to 1500 slaves; and this does mot
include seventy-three basingers (armed Negro slaves), with
their slaves, and a large number of Nyam-Nyam, Monbuttu,
Bongo, Mittu, &c., of whom nobody was able to tell where
they came from, nor what they were; but, at any rate, they all
have slaves.

That my estimate of the number of slaves here is a very
moderate one is proved by the fact that, in reply to my repri-
mand, the officials said there were formerly three to four thou-
sand slaves in the district, and no one had ever troubled about
it. Why, then, should I ? The dismissal of the governor of the
station and his immediate banishment, as well as the arrival
of fifty-four regular soldiers from Shambe to garrison the
station, soon taught the people that at last even here the rights
of the Negroes will have to be respected.

In addition to the six or seven hundred ardebs of corn
which had been taken from the natives each year " for the
Government," a very large quantity had also been obtained by
the officials for their own private uses, and for the distillation
of brandy; and no one took the trouble to deny that large
quantities of sesame, sesame-oil, Butyrospermum fat, honey,
wax, and ground-nuts had been requisitioned from the people
under the name of taxes. Plunder has indeed been carried
on to such an extent that it is a wonder that anything at all
remains for the people; and that so many natives still exist in
the neighbourhood must certainly not be attributed to the
care of the Government, but to the fact that these Dinka
tribes, with their long lances, have been able to protect
themselves.

Murder appears to be so very common here that scarcely
any inquiry is made about it-they were only abid, that is,
slaves !

A certain Abd-es-Sadik (i.e., a servant of the Just !-what
irony !), himself a slave of the Defa'allah mentioned above,
lately put four persons to death, and when his master was
questioned about it, he replied that he had long ago given
the fellow his liberty (to murder, presumably !) and assigned
a village to him. I ascertained, however, that on the day of
my arrival he was still living in Defa'allah's house. When

A WORTHLESS GOVERNOR. 413

Defa'allah's slaves were subsequently confiscated, twenty-seven
were found to belong to Abd-es-Sadik.

In explanation of the phrase that " he had assigned a village
to him," it may be as well to remark that all the officials here
had a number of male slaves, whom they armed-of course
with arms and ammunition belonging to the Government.
These fellows then settled down in the native villages, and
compelled the inhabitants by force of arms to contribute all
sorts of produce, which they partly used for their own support,
but sent most of it to their masters' houses. Yusuff Pasha
Hassan, Hassan Bey Ibrahim, Mula Effendi, and the rest of
these petty Satraps have thus kept up dozens of these robbers'
nests here, concealed by the prestige of their names. Other
armed slaves went about the country, hunting up slaves for
their masters. That all these slaves carried on slave-hunting
on their own account need scarcely be mentioned.

My stay at Ayak lasted a long time, since Mula Effendi,
the chief of the whole district of Rol, naturally showed no
inclination to proceed against his accomplices. He had, indeed,
himself at Ayak a branch establishment of his chief house
at Rumbek, with fifty to sixty inmates.

Rumbek is not far from Ayak, so that the people there had
had time to send away any slaves from whom gossip or com-
plaints were apprehended, and even in some cases to send
them free to their homes. If the number of such was four
hundred in Ayak, it was here from six hundred to seven hun-
dred, while the total number of slaves in Rumbek before my
arrival was reckoned by the people themselves at over three
thousand. The station was a fearful place, as bad as brandy,
syphilis, the slave-trade, and debauchery of every sort could
make it. Happily, my order that every man should now pay
regular taxes and officially announce the number of his slaves
had done away with the desire to stay among the scum of
Khartum which had collected here, and I was glad enough to
dismiss all this rabble to Khartim, and to permit them to
retreat to the Bahr-el-Ghazal, where the Danagla régime flour-
ishes as it did before Gessi's time. The morning after my
arrival one hundred and sixty-five Monbuttu slaves of both
sexes (among them a number of children of five to six), who

414 ZERIBAS IN THE PROVINCE OF ROL

did not understand Arabic, and had only lately been brought
here, came to ask me to restore them to their own homes ;
forty-five of them (twenty-five males and twenty females)
belonged to Mula Effendi, the governor of the district! The
question of their support presents no difficulty ; the Negroes
grow corn in abundance, and if meat runs short, the Agar or
Atwot would be said to be in revolt, a raid would be under-
taken, and cows stolen. - Then a report would be made to the
Government-there are some very curious ones of the kind in
existence-and the whole affair would be a thing of the past.

Since 1877 no accounts have been sent in from or kept
by this administration. - Though the governors received money
for the payment of wages, no one has been paid a piastre for
years ; probably, however, the governors have bought goods
with the funds belonging to the Government, and sold them at
three times the amount. Slaves figure in these accounts as
oxen, asses, &c. The making of false seals and fabricating
receipts by their use complete the picture of what has been
going on here. And with it all the place is full of prayer-
places and fawhis. f

In the divan at Rumbek I sat upon Ziber Pasha's carpets
and cushions, and coffee was handed to us by Darfur slave-
girls captured by his son.

It is a curious fact that during more than twenty years'
rule, Islam has scarcely made ten proselytes in the whole of
our provinces-a greater proof of administrative failure could
hardly be furnished.

On my return journey I succeeded in freeing about fifty
more slaves, who had been concealed in the small zeribas of
the Beli district, and I sent the owners to Ladd.

Meanwhile soldiers from Lado had arrived in Amadi, and
had commenced to turn out the Danagla. Although my sol-
diers are not exactly angels, and now and then make the
people work for themn-they are but Negroes after all-still
they are used to discipline, and as far as their treatment of
the people is concerned, and the good terms they are on with
them, they deserve nothing but praise. But it may be asked,
Will my efforts produce any lasting effect ?

Ml he

MOUNTAIN RANGES. 415

2-ON EXPLORATION, THE LABOUR QUESTION, AND
CIVILISATION.

(Letter to Dr. G. Schweinfurth, dated Bedén, May, 1881.)

LATUOKA-A FIELD FOR EUROPEAN SCIENCE-CHINESE LABOUR-THE LA-
KERDA-TREE-MORINGA FROM UGANDA-CULTIVATION oF RICE AND
MAIZE-EUCALYPTUS-EUROPEAN FRUITS IN LADG.

A JournEy to Latuka, to inspect the stations there, took me
vid Agaru to Fadibék, and, after visiting Fajulli from there, I
returned +14 Obbo to Laboré. It would be impossible for me
to give you a thorough description of this country without
writing at greater length than you would perhaps care for,
but in order to accomplish the purpose I have in view, it will
be necessary to take up a few minutes of your time.

As soon as we had passed through the narrow defile which
runs to the south-east from Térangole to Jebel Sereten, a
view was obtained of a perfectly new mountainous district.
Many solitary masses, often of considerable size, were seen, as
well as long ranges and chains crowned by jagged peaks and
domes. - The serrate mountains of Irenga and the mountains
of Musingok, which form a connecting-link with Kaffa, were
visible to the north and north-east, in which direction were
also the rivers Tu and Ogeloquer, both flowing to the north.
In the east the extended range of Kuron stood forth, which
stretches like a broken wall towards the south, joins the ranges
of Latuka and the Obbo plateau, with its formidable mountain
pyramids, in the west, and descends in terraces into the Somal
and Galla countries to the east.

Whilst our station at Agaru has an altitude of more than
four thousand feet, according to hypsometrical observations,
Fajulli, which lies farther to the south, is much lower, not-
withstanding the general rise in the altitude of the country.

The station in the Lirem country, which is inhabited by
the Ajé division of the Lingo tribe, keeps up our communi-
cations with the districts of Umird, Lobbor, Termayok,
Koliang, Bognia, and also with Turkan, from where we obtained

416 EXPLORATION, LABOUR QUESTION, ETC.

some splendid camels last year, which still do good work at
Rejaf.

The number of new names I have just mentioned, and which
are not yet to be found upon any map, will show you what
a large tract of new country we have now to deal with,
especially when I add that the places are not situated at five
to six hours' march from one another, but often at a distance
of from six to eight days' good march, and even more.

Is it not about time for me to remind you of your friendly
promise to assist me whenever you could? Our stations now
form as good a basis for the exploration of the country as you
could possibly wish, and I need not add that I would do all in
my power to aid explorers.

A great deal of money is given now-a-days-unfortunately
in Germany as elsewhere-for the exploration of the worn-out
routes which lead from Zanzibar into the interior; men and
money, too, are sacrificed on the west coast, while there lie here
scientific treasures within reach, and no one heeds them! I
apply to you, then-the approved master of African explora-
tion, a disinterested promoter of scientific research-with the
earnest and sincere request to use the proffered opportunity,
either yourself or for others, who, if sent by you, will always
be welcome. Will you not let German explorers have the
honour of opening up this new, rich field? No delay, how-
ever-you know well enough how precarious official positions
are in the EHast-and it is a question whether my successor
will take an interest in science. Do not think me arrogant
for using this last expression ; on the contrary, I am perfectly
well aware that I am one of those " of whom you do not know
the stamp," as Professor Hartmann was fond of saying. You,
however, who have known the East for a long time, will
probably say that I am right.

And now I will touch upon another point which appears to
me to be a vital one, and upon which I would ask your advice
and help in the name of those ties which bind you to our
country. You were, I think, the first to propose the immi-
gration of Chinese to open up Central Africa. Since the
government of this province was entrusted to me three years
ago, I have certainly studied the people and the country

 

CHINESE LABOUR. 417

with great care, and I have come to the conclusion that under
the present conditions no real progress can be made, or at
least it must be so slow that decades will hardly suffice to
set upon a solid basis the work which has hitherto been done
with so much trouble. Let us set aside all discussion as to
the cause of the anomalies which exist-regrets are no cure.
I cannot get over the conviction that if it is possible for Central
Africa to be opened up, it can only be accomplished by means
of the Chinese, and that our beautiful country, with all its rich
resources, and with the possibility which is afforded of estab-
lishing good communications between each settlement by means
of such workmen, would repay a thousandfold such an undertak-
ing. This idea has been one of my dearest projects for four:
years, but I kept silence, because I hardly expected to obtain a
single response to such wishes. Now, however, that you have
given me permission to come to you for advice, it is different,
for your influence in Government circles in Egypt will attain
much that "wun certain Emin Bey" would strive for in vain.

Will you support me in this matter if I apply officially to
the Government? Will you convince the Belgians that a few
hundred Chinese established in any suitable place-under the
direction of practical Kuropeans-would form a better nucleus
for the civilisation of Africa than any number of Indian
elephants and ironclad steamers? - Lastly, will you be so
good as to give me your opinion on this subject ?

Do not be annoyed at my freedom. - If I had not the welfare
of these lands really at heart, if I did not fear that some day
or other I must leave them, and that my work, the result of
many a weary day, may fall to pieces, I would keep my own
counsel, as I have done till now. Fortune has long permitted
me to withstand the tropical climate. My days, however, may
be numbered, so is it not better for me to speak out freely ?

When climbing a high hill in the Shuli district last year,
I noticed a species of dwarf tree with reed-like leaves ; its roots
penetrated to a depth of about twenty or thirty inches in the
moss-covered humus which lined the crevasses existing in the
bare granite. The little tree was so remarkable that I then
intended to ask its name.

I have again met with quantities of this tree on the mountains

2 D

418 EXPLORATION, LABOUR QUESTION, ETC,

in the east and south-east of the Latiika country (Jebel Ghattal,
Jebel Sereten, Jebel Kuron), and I take the opportunity which
Consul Hansal's courtesy affords me of sending you a speci-
men in spirit, with the request that you will kindly determine
its species. - The Shili call it lakerda.* - The raw shoots are
used for cleaning and polishing shields. Its vertical distri-
bution is from 2500 to 3000 feet. Together with this plant
you will receive the leaves and blossoms of a tree which I have
introduced here from Ugiénda, and which thrives well ; its seeds
(also sent you) produce a considerable amount of fine yellow
oil, and when we. ran out of soap, we made a good substitute
by mixing the crushed seeds with potash. - The tree shoots up
like a bamboo to a height of some twenty-five to thirty feet ; its
stalk, however, is too weak to be of any use. - It grows singly
in the banana groves in Uginda. - Is it the Moringa ?

The rice + which you were good enough to send me grows
splendidly, and I shall take the liberty of forwarding you a
sample of it. The " horse-tooth " maize which His Excellency
Stone Pasha sent me also thrives well; each crop, however,
requires to be sown on new ground, for if two crops are sown
on the same field, the plants of the second crop are small, and
the grain is small and round, like that of the usual sorts. It is
curious to notice the tendency which every variety of maize
sown here has to produce dark, often almost black, grain. - The
grass |? for pasture which has been sent me has not grown as
well as I had hoped ; perhaps the soil was too moist. I have
just sown a fresh crop. After considerable trouble I have
managed to rear some ten to fifteen Eucalyptus trees from two
and a half to three feet in height; the seeds which Gordon
Pasha obtained from the English Consulate in Algiers sprouted
well, but withered immediately.

The fruits which flourish best are figs, lemons, citrons,
Anonas, and the Carica papaya. - Pomegranates bear little fruit.
I have no pineapples. Three species of banana bear well; my
dates are still young. May I ask you to send me some good
wheat to experiment with in the Shili district (3000 feet) ? I

* It is Schnizleinia (Hypoxis) sp. n. -G. S..

* The rice was sent by Rosette. -G. S.
+ Guatemala grass (Fuchlcena luzurians). -G. S.

ACCLIMATISATION OF PLAXTS. 419

have just written to Kabréga for coffee to try at Agari (4000
feet).

In my own interest, I shall use every endeavour to cultivate
the various species of bamboo sent me, and I will let you know
which kind thrives best. I have just received a collection
of vegetables from M. Marquet and other friends in Khartim.
We grow all the vegetables which exist in the Sudan, as well
as Colocasias, sweet potatoes, Helmi@ bulbifera, two kinds of
Dioscorea, four kinds of Phaseolus, and sugar-cane. Melons
do not grow well; water-melons, on the contrary, thrive
splendidly, especially a kind sent me from Darfur, which we
plant in the and which the rain does not harm.

Although I am afraid of wearying you, I will once more
return to the two points I have already mentioned. In the
first place, send me somebody. I certainly do not advise you
to send a scientific expedition consisting of several members;
I do not wish such an expedition, for reasons not far to seek.
What I do want is an explorer well up to his work, and not
too proud to take a practical hint now and then. Good intro-
ductions from the Egyptian Government are necessary for
Khartum. I will defray the cost up here.

Secondly, would not the introduction of Chinese settle the
slave-trade once and for all? Think over this matter care-
fully, and write me about it; I do not think that the proper
methods have been yet followed or the proper measures taken.
I should be sorry to pose as a critic, but I have had the oppor-
tunity of thoroughly learning the needs of this country.

And now my hearty greeting, and again a thousand thanks .
for all your interest and courtesy. Your sympathy is a great
help to me in my difficult task.

420 [THE SL&VE QUESTION.

3. ON THE SLAVE QUESTION.

(From a Letter to Dr. G. Schweinfurth, dated Ladé,
December 25, 1881.)

HORTICULTURE IN LADO-THE FIRST STEAM-ENGINE IN THE HEART oF
AFRICA-ON THE ADMINISTRATION OFP THE PROVINCE-BUDGET SUR-
PLUSES-THE SLAVE QUESTION-DR. JUNKER'S OBSERVATIONS-DOX-
GoLaUI OUTRAGES.

Just imagine! - Our garden already yields to the Government
nearly a thousand piastres monthly from vegetables and other
produce, , 'This is encouraging, 'is it not?. We have just
commenced irrigation by means of a steam-engine, which I
asked for from Khartim-the first engine at work in the heart
of Africa, Now every one wishes to lay out a garden. My
absence from here was prolonged for more than three months
during my tour of inspection through the old mudirié of Rol,
where I finally suppressed the shamefully conducted slave-trade.
I am therefore rather behind-hand with my work here, but I
will soon make up for lost time. I venture to enclose some
notes of this last journey, and you are at liberty to make what
use you please of them. I can vouch for the scrupulous aceu-
racy of the facts recorded. You will see from them that till
now many things have been put up with which should not
have been allowed. I have great doubts as it is whether my
efforts in this direction will meet with approval in Khartum,
for energetic measures hardly seem to be in favour there. I
have received a hint privately that, if I like to go there for a
few days, there is nothing to prevent me (I have not been there
since May 1877) ; I will, however, carefully consider the matter.
I am thinking of a certain gift of Danaiis, and am too well
acquainted with the Sudin and its ways to suppose that I can -
be a persona grata. Otherwise I am quite satisfied with the
consideration shown me. But if I must confess the truth, I
believe that no good can be done until this province is
separated from the central Government and made quite in-
dependent, as it was in the days of Gordon and Baker. It is
better not to write at all, when I have to wait five months for

SLAVERY IN THE BAHR EL-GHAZL. 421

an answer to every letter asking for the approval of new
measures. - 'The fact that this year, the first of real business, I
have been able to obtain for the Government a net revenue of
between five and six thousand pounds sterling proves that
the province can support itself, notwithstanding Gordon's oppo-
site opinion. Caoutchoue, oil, &e., are not included in this
estimate.

January 31, 1882.

I have heard from Dr. Junker again to-day, and enclose his
letter, begging you not to publish anything in it which is not
geographical. - This letter and those from Casati, which I like-
wise enclose, will, by the exceeding misery which they disclose,
furnish the best proof of what I have just asserted. It will
only be possible to produce salutary effects and to suppress
outrages in this country when it is separated from Khartim,
and possesses an administration armed with all requisite
authority. Here I sit gnashing my teeth and wasting my
time in writing for permission to do this, that, or the other,
which requests lead to nothing, while I might be up and
doing. I do not even yet know where my frontier lies on the
side towards that nest of slaves, the Bahr-el-Ghazal province,
and whenever I send a proposal to Khartiim, it comes back
again without a decision. What use are all the compliments
showered on me and the politeness shown me? It is known
that you write to me, and that I occasionally publish some
information ; hence all this attention. Junker has kept silence
hitherto, but when he returns, unless something is actually
done soon, he may make some disclosures which will be rather
unpleasant for the Egyptian Government. The capture ot
slaves, and the slave caravans which travel daily from the
southern districts northwards to the Bahr-el-Ghazal territory,
and, alas! to Rumbek also, are undeniable facts. When I
wrote to Khartim, asking that Wando's and Kifa's territories
might be placed under my command, so that I might erect two
or three military stations there, and be able to render the
transit of slaves impossible, I received the answer that the
chiefs of those districts would perhaps be displeased if they
were annexed to this territory. - Naturally one loses all inclina-

422 AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, ETC,.

tion to work when such answers as these are sent, based, as
they are, on the most thorough misconception of circumstances.
I at length sent a military expedition to Monbuttu to protect
the country from the Danagla, but have been compelled to
withdraw it, because I encountered the greatest difficulties at
every step, and, having no power to decide questions myself,
should have been obliged to report to Khartum, and wait five
or six months for an answer. - Excuse this long jeremiad.
You, who know this beautiful country, will understand better
than any one else that this forced inactivity is the greatest
curse to a man like myself.

 

4. ON THE AgrIcULTURE, COMMERCE, AND ADMINISTRATION or
THE EQUATORIAL PROVINCE.

(Letters to Dr. @. Schweinfurth from Lado, March 3 and 18, 1883.)

THE MPAFU-TREE - AMOMUM FRUITS - LOMBO BULBS - TOMATOES - AT-
TEMPTS TO SOW BAMBOOS AND WHEAT-MAIZE-GUAVAS-ONIONS AND
OIL-PALMS-SATISFACTORY BUDGET-NEGRO REYVOLTS ON THE BAHR-
EL-GHAZAL-PROJECTS FOR COLONISING CENTRAL AFRICA-ON MIS-
SIONARY SOCIETIES AND THEIR PROSPECTS IN CENTRAL AFRICA-NEW
STATION ON THE KIBBI-NEW ROUTE TO THE BAHR-EL-GHAZAL PRO-
VINCE-CONDUCT OF THE DANAGLA-INDIARUBBER.

I am sending you a box of seeds with this letter, and should
particularly like to know the name of the tree which bears the
three-cornered nuts that I enclose. I first met with this gigantic
tree in 1876 in Uganda, where some specimens of it grew
beside my hut. They were twenty-one to twenty-five feet in
circumference, and rose to a height of ninety to a hundred feet
above the ground before throwing out branches, which formed
a splendid broad crown. - The fruits are olive-shaped, and are
enclosed in a green husk, which smells of resin; after being
dipped in hot water they aro eaten. I only send you the
kernels. The bark is light grey, thick, and cracked, and is
strongly impregnated with resin. If a cut be made in it, a

ACCLIMATISATION OF PLANTS. 423

viscous transparent resin of a very light green colour oozes out
immediately. - It becomes slightly turbid like milk on exposure
to the air, and when fresh, gives out a powerful smell like that
of cedar wood (Oleum cedri). - This resin is dissolved by boiling
it in oil, and is a favourite perfume among the natives. The
wood is reddish, and very serviceable, as it is not attacked by
inssets. In Uginda this tree is called mpaofuw, and Cameron
meations it i cye rasa o() !,

Specimens of the fruits of Calamus secundiflorus are likewise
enclosed, but you will perhaps take more interest in those of
Musa ensete, which I found fairly abundant round Tomays.
The fruits are fresh, so perhaps they will sprout. Did the
He'mia * bulbs reach you safely (through M. Vossion)? Would
yor like specimens of caoutchoue, and shall I send other kinds
of resin? - I have also sent some fruits and seeds of Amomum,
which is very common everywhere; perhaps a practical use
for it might be discovered. The people here use the crushed
seeds to mix with coffee, just as the Egyptians use their Ambbe
han, Abyssinian seeds of the same plant. If the tubers [of the
kambo plant] come in time, I will send you a basketful of
them. The tomatoes were as large as my fist at our station of
Janda (4100 feet), while in Lado they are very diminutive.

I am able to send a good report of my agricultural experi-
ments. Among the varieties of bamboo that were kindly
sent me, Bambusa arundinacea and Dendrocalamus strictus have
made a good start, and I have great hopes of them. I have not
been so fortunate with the Italian peperoni. The cultivation of
the Zea mays (American seeds) is spreading slowly among the
Negroes ; rice is thriving splendidly in Ladd and Dufilé, and is
now going to be cultivated also in Makrakd (at Rimo). I brought
a small sample of wheat from Khartim, where the missionaries
grew it from Algerian seeds. The result was good, only the
birds will not leave the ears alone. I have sent some of the
seeds produced here to Makrakié and to the southern stations,
so that its cultivation may be tried there. Vine stocks have
taken root at last, after failing at least ten times. - The Carica
papaya t has spread from here over the Bahr-el-Ghazal terri-

* They are still growing in several of the gardens in Cairo.-G. S.

+ Dr. Emin brought it from Ugdnda in 1874. -G. S.

424 AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, ETC,

tory. - Guavas thrive and bear plentifully. I am now sending
you some shoots. I am sorry that I have no mangoes, and
the seeds you spoke to me about have never reached me. I
am cultivating ground-nuts largely ; their oil is our substitute -
for butter. - Onions are cultivated at all the stations, and thrive
especially well in Dufilé and Makraks. - The love of gardening
and cultivation has much increased among my people during
the past year, and I daily receive letters begging me for seeds
and plants. - Our soldiers and officers are now quite aware that
a well-tended garden affords not only amusement but tangible
advantages. - When, however, the plant or fruit arrives at
maturity, it is consumed-you know the Negro character-no
one dreams of reserving seed for the next planting, for is not
Emin Bey in Ladd in order to provide seed ? I have hundreds
of times sent seeds to the people, and asked them to preserve
some ; they have over and over again promised to do so, but
when sowing-time comes, they invariably apply to me for a
fresh supply. They have, however, improved a little lately,
and with time and patience I think I shall bring them to
better ways. The planting of Hlais guineensis is what I have
now most at heart; seeds are on the way from Monbuttu, and
I shall begin to plant them as soon as they arrive. Date
palms do well; here they are still small-some forty feet-
but in Makraka they have borne fruit this year. I am ex-
pecting pineapples by this steamer, which I begged of M.
Marquet in Khartim. The coffee * you sent me would not
bud. What do you think of trying Cinchona? '
The net revenue of the past year remaining at the disposal
of the Government, after all salaries, expenses, &c., have been
deducted, amounts to #8000 sterling, of which the greater
part has been paid into the Government treasury at Khartim.
The trifling sums which I obtained from there, after many
requests, have been spent in paying arrears of salary (1879-
1880). But it seems as if the Government did not value
this province much ; for instance, during the year 1882, only
one steamer was sent here-that which brought me from
Khartuim.+ - This steamer, too, carried no goods, my petition

* Caffea liberica from West Africa. -G. 8.

t Dr, Emin arrived in Khartim on March 7, 1882, and left on June 18;
1882.-G. S.

RED TAPE. 423

for a larger boat to take goods having been refused. The
prohibition against merchants coming here was also retained,
in spite of my earnest appeals that it might be annulled;
therefore, ever since December of 188 1, the officials have been
absolutely cut off from all supplies, and have consequently
experienced greater distress than in the year 1878-9,
when the river was closed. Gordon, however, allowed mer-
chants to come here, for he clearly saw how absurd such a
measure was as a preventive against the export of slaves from
this country. Well, the legislators in Khartim-foreigners
and Arabs-may understand these things better than one like
myself, who is not a Pasha; but I can tell you one thing,
and that is, that under the present system they may quietly
draw their pens through the names of our provinces in a couple
of years. It is so ridiculous to dream of stopping the slave-
trade in the Sudan by setting up a slave department in
Khartim with branch offices ; to try and tie up our districts
with the red tape of Egyptian bureaucratism is an idea that
makes one's hair stand on end. If the Government, besides
the exploitation of the interior of Africa for pecuniary ends,
which seems to have been the cue latterly, is really bent on
carrying on a humanitarian mission there-and that was cer-
tainly Ismail Pasha's intention-it can, in my opinion, only be
done by uniting the Negro districts-the Bahr-el-Ghazal and
the Equatorial Provinces-and separating them entirely from
the Arab portions of the Sudan. Then a capable European
Governor must be found for them, who has a love for the work,
and will take an interest in the country, not one who does not
care whether " blue men or green live by the Albert Lake."
He should have three to four steamers at his disposal, and
should be commissioned to work out the details of the organi-
sation, of the exploitation of the country, of the disposal of the
products, and of matters affecting the slave-trade in conjunc-
tion with us, the local Governors. A commission in Khartim
for slavery affairs, consisting of the Governor of the Sudan, or
his representative, and the consuls, as well as five to six trust-
worthy natives, Mohammedans and Christians, should be in
direct communication with the Governor of the Negro districts,
whose residence should be at Sobat. Fashoda would of course

426 AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, ETC,

be given up as a mudiric. But these are all dreams, and their
realisation will not become a necessity until later years, when
I have long been dead. Excuse this digression ; out of a full
heart the mouth speaketh. - My position is not an enviable one,
as I have already hinted, for our province has received absolutely
no support at present. We certainly cannot blame officials
who have been left a whole year without supplies if they do
their duty reluctantly and ask for their discharge at every
opportunity. _ Since June I5, 1882, the day I left Khartim,
until to-day, March 6, 1883, I have received neither letters
nor news from there, nor has a steamer been sent up here.
Supposing that the river is blocked again, which I begin
to fear is the case-for I can think of no other explanation of
the dilatoriness at Khartim-would it not then be the duty
of the Government to send me news by the Bahr-el-Ghazal,
whither steamers have twice been sent? Must I call their
conduct towards us negligence ? - Is it not rather want of con-
sideration ? - Hitherto my personal influence has kept things
in order, and made the Negroes my allies, but I begin to be
tired of it, for I see that the Government does not understand
us, and never will ; and if I retire, things will fall to pieces here
in a very short time, and then they will have a nice task before
them.

You have heard of the Negro revolts on the Bahr-el-Ghazal ?
It seems that the Negroes there have had enough of being
regarded only as "things" from which every possible service
is to be extorted, and which are then to be maltreated in return
for the work they have done. After many years' experience of
the Negroes, and intimacy with them, I have really no hopes at
all of a regeneration of Negroes by Negroes-I know my own
men too well for that-nor have I yet been able to bring myself
to believe in the hazy sentimentalism which attempts the con-
version and blessing of the Negroes by translations of the New
Testament and by " moral pocket-handkerchiefs" alone; but I
do not on that account despair of the accomplishment of our
task, viz., the opening up and consequent civilisation of the
African continent. It will no doubt be a work of time, and
whoever devotes himself to the task must from the first give up
all thoughts of fame and of his services being acknowledged.

 

HOPEFUL PROSPECTS. 427

But Europe possesses energy for anything, and if one man dies,
another will take his place and carry on his work. It is strange
that Europeans have lefé our countries quite out of sight,
and prefer to pour money into the interior by the somewhat
worn-out route from Zanzibar, and to enhance the greatness
of Sultan Mirambo, and heroes of his stamp, by tribute. If
only a thousandth part of the sums expended on those
expeditions, which were, however, intended to form stations,
had been employed in fitting out a small expedition-of
Germans of course, I should prefer-and sending it here, I
would have sent it forward into the still unoccupied country
to the south of Makraki-a real paradise. The men would
have been within a few days' march of us and in constant
contact with the world, in a healthy mountain region, and
would have become a protection and a blessing to the sur-
rounding Negroes. Small stations would in a very short time
have been thrown forward to the Congo through the entirely
unknown district extending from the western shore of the
Albert Nyanza to Nyangwe, or an advance might have been
made to the Beatrice Gulf, and finally to the Tanganyika. Has
the King of the Belgians no means of forming such a station ?
And would it be quite impossible for you to start something
of the sort? Of course, you must not mention me in con-
nection with it, but you may be sure that the men who come
may depend on my complete and most zealous support. _ I
must, however, make one remark: I am not speaking of an
exploring party, but of the foundillg'of a station, a centre,
in fact, for future explorations. The station should maintain
itself by hunting, tillage, gardening, &c. (ivory !!). The staff
should be chosen with a view to this-men who are not only
able to command and to take the altitude of a star, but who
know how to work occasionally, and do not disdain to take a
look into the cooking-pot. As an experienced traveller, you
will certainly admit that a man who wishes to live and work
here would also do better to leave the spirit-bottle behind in
Europe. What boundless advantages the country itself would
derive from such beginnings! Much more effective support
to our struggles against slavery would be afforded by the
presence of several Europeans than by that of ten Consuls in

 

428 AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, ETC,

Khartum, or by enlarged and emended editions of Anglo-Egyp-
tian slave conventions! But if Europeans have no money for
such purposes, or prefer to waste men and means from Zanzi-
bar, we have at any rate the missionaries.

I took a great deal of pains during my stay in Khartim to
prevail on the mission there to undertake the establishment of
stations in this country, not in the foolish manner of past times,
but after the model of the French station in Bagamoyo, though
perhaps with rather less religious ballast and less psalm-singing.
Whether they were alarmed by Mgr. Comboni's death, or what it
was, I do not know, but there was so much talk of getting per-
mission from Rome, temporary difficulties, want of money, &c.,
that nothing is to be hoped for in that direction. The C. M. S.
do not see their way to send a mission here ; the other societies
may think differently, but I have no connexion with them ; and
the Germans-do you suppose they have money for the purpose ?
There remains only Mgr. Lavigerie, with his Turcos and Zouaves
-what do you think of my opening a correspondence with
him ? From what I see and hear, he would be just the man
to take an interest in this kind of thing, and he seems to have
means enough at command to go to work at once, which is just
what I want ; for I should like before my death to have a better
guarantee for the preservation of the work I have done than
could be afforded by the prospect of seeing a highly respectable
Bey step into my place, who would neither understand nor love
the country and its inhabitants. I refrain for the present from
further and longer explanations ; a buon intenditore poche parole.
You are almost the only one who really knows our country,
and takes an interest in its prosperity and misfortunes, and
for that very reason I was unwilling to keep these ideas from
you. Should you be able to interest yourself in my dreams,
and to make your influence felt on behalf of this country, which
you have been the principal instrument in making known to
the world, my half-formed projects will soon take shape under
your hand and become realised, to my great satisfaction. Pray
do not blame me for troubling you by asking your help and
advice-I have no one that I can trust, and am, too, an official.
I beg you, therefore, to consider all my utterances as quite
private, but above all to let me know your views, and, should

NEW STATIONS. 429

my plans appear to you practicable, to proceed to put them
into execution as far as possible without delay. I may appear
to you rather egotistical, but does not every gardener seek to
protect the flowers which bloom under his care ?

Our country has remained quite quiet at present. - About six
hundredweight of ivory lies in the magazines, and a quantity of
tamarinds, ostrich feathers, Butyrospermum fat, Arachis oil,
hides, &e., are waiting to be disposed of. My men have
erected a new station on the Kibi, and another party is going
to occupy the road between it and the station of Widelai, so
that the ivory may now be sent from the station of Kubi in
Monbuttu to those of Tambira and Logo on the upper Kibali,
and thence past the new station on the Kibi to Widelai,
whence the steamer will bring it to Dufilé. In the east, also,
the station of Tarangole is finished, and that of Lobbor, which
will join the line of Fajulli, Facher, Farshile, is in course of
erection. The flora of the tablelands in the east differs entirely
from that of this neighbourhood, and is much more similar to
that of Kordofan.

I brought rather rich zoological collections from my last tour
to the south-south-east, and, as far as I can decide with my
small supply of literature, I shall be able to send to Dr. Hart-
laub, my amiable correspondent, eight or nine new species
of birds and two new mammals. I should like to have
collected insects, but I had no pins. As for anthropological
objects, I have some crania to send to Europe. Should you
like some for Virchow ? I have made a good number of
measurements, among others six to eight of Akkgd (P and f),
all according to Broca's scheme, which M. Vossion * kindly
gave me, with a splendid portable apparatus for measuring.
This is very different from the conduct of the Government, for
I have twice applied to it, and written privately to Stone
Pasha to get some instruments I wanted-particularly a small
altazimuth instrument, or at any rate a theodolite and chrono-
meters-either on loan or to be paid for out of my salary : of
course they have neither time nor inclination in Egypt for
such matters. It does not signify, however, for I have already

* He was at the time the French Vice-consul in Khartam, and is at present French
Consul-General at Philadelphia.

430 AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, ETC,.

made other arrangements, and what instruments I do possess
are my own property. _ It is, however, rather annoying to hear
men in power hold forth continually about their appreciation of
scienee, and then to receive nothing but empty phrases when
one applies to them.

Our communication with the Bahr-el-Ghazal territory has
been interrupted for a long time, at least by the usual post-
road which runs from here through Amadi, Ayik, and Rum-
bek to Gok-el-Hassan and Jur Ghattas, for the Dinka round
Jur Ghattas have revolted, and the Bongo round Gok-el-
Hassan have joined them. I have therefore opened a new
route, passing through Makraka to Gosa, and thence north-
wards through Sabbi to Wau. - Of course this is a much
longer road, so I have received no news from there for the
last three months. I hear reports of two steamers having
arrived there to take so-called basinger to Khartim as recruits ;
this will, of course, not fail to increase the existing discontent
considerably, for our Negroes do not like to leave their native
country, and the thought of going to Khartim is quite horrible
to them. We do not know what is going on in Fashoda and
the neighbourhood, for the Government prefers to leave us in
the dark, - Darfur is probably already lost to the Government,
for Slatin wrote several times to Lupton asking for assistance,
as his situation was really desperate, but Lupton had to refuse
it, as he could not trust his own province. - Five to six thousand
Danagla still live in the Bahr-el-Ghazal territory, just as they
did in Gessi's time, although he emphatically asserted that he
had sent them all away. As regards my own-and I have a
good share of them, and cannot dispense with them, having no
soldiers-I have nothing to complain of. I have kept them in
order with a rod of iron, much as a battalion of Bashi-Bazuks
is held in check; they do not love me, but they fear me, and
therefore obey. It may be that certain rather singular situa-
tions, from which I fortunately came out in triumph, have
thrown a sort of halo round me. I hope that all will go
on smoothly with us, and that the youngest province of the
Egyptian dominion will also be the most sensible.

PROPOSED ADMINISTRATIVE DISTRICTS, 431

After the arrival of the steamer from Khartim, i
March 18, 1883.

I can supply large quantities of caoutchouc; unfortunately
I cannot enter into direct communication with the commercial
world, but am obliged to deliver all produce at Khartim (with
gnashing of teeth !), and receive in exchange the very worst
goods at the highest prices in lieu of monthly pay. Set me
free, entrust me with the independent control of this country,
and I will show the Egyptian Government what our province
can do.

I have been obliged to answer the letter Mr. L. Holz was
so kind as to send by a refusal. That I should prefer German
trade is certain;-only think what a trade could be opened up
in ivory, oil of all kinds, skins, corn, ostrich feathers, Buty-
rospermum fat, indiarubber, wax, iron, &e., &c. It would appear
as if the time had come when they [the Government] intend
to make good former mistakes, among which I include the
celebrated division of the Sudan into four parts, and the
appointment of a Sudan Ministry in Cairo. Just think how
ridiculous it is to join into one province the Bahr-el-Ghazal and
Dongola with Darfur and Kordofan !

If they wish to centralise the administration, well and good ;
let them divide the Sudan into administrative districts thus--
(1) Darfur and Kordofan, (2) Dongola and Berber, (3) Khar-
tum and Senniar, (4) the Eastern Sudan (Kassala, Suakin,
Massaua), (5) Harar, (6) Bahr-el-Ghazal and Hat-el-Istiva
(Equatorial Provinces).

Each of these natural provinces should be administered by a
Mudir, two local officials, and a finance bureau. Would fot
this be cheaper? And then, instead of giving £30,000 for
a Sudan Ministry, place the whole district under the Home
Minister, and spend the money in building telegraphs !

But an end to complaints.

432 THE SUDAN AND EQUATORIAL PROVINCE.

5. THz SupAxn anp THE EQUATORIAL PROVINCE IN THE Summzr
or 1982;

THE REVOLT OF THE MAHDI-A YOYAGE UP THE NILE FROM
KHARTOM TO LADG.

Tug condition of affairs in Khartum was so very disagreeable
that I was really glad to leave the place [June 15, 1882].
You know, of course, from the newspaper reports-which, by
the way, are often rather coloured-that a year ago a certain
Mohammed Ahmed, who had been held by the Arabs to be a
kind of prophet, on account of his contemplative life, suddenly
gave himself out to be the Mahdi-the last prophet-and com-
menced his new career by sending letters to the Governor
General, and the governors and chiefs of the tribes, requiring
them to recognise his superior (spiritual) authority, to turn
from their bad way of life, to cease oppressing the people, and
to be ready to obey his orders. A small group of excited
Arabs, mostly those of his own tribe, flocked to him. Now,
instead of immediately sending an intelligent officer and a
detachment of troops with an order to take the prophet a
prisoner at once, the Governor-General thought it good to send
as Commissioner the noted Abu Saud to investigate matters,
and at the same time to send a company of soldiers to bring
the prophet to Khartum. _ Now, whilst Abu Saud, after several
theological discussions, returned with his steamer to rest on
hig laurels, the soldiers attacked the prophet the same night,
but were annihilated, and their arms and ammunition fell into
the Arabs' hands; Abu Saud steamed to Khartim and reported
his theological results.

If, even then, energetic action had been taken, the whole of
the affair would have been ended in a few days, for such reli-
gious assemblies, even on a larger scale, are far from rare in
the East. Only call to mind the Babite movement in Persia,
the Wahabite war in Nejd, and similar proceedings in Yemen.
Unfortunately, the Governor of Fashoda received a command
to punish the rebels; and whilst the Mahdi, with a well-armed
and largely recruited following, crossed the Nile, marched to

A DISASTER NEAR FASHODA. 433

the west, and, now in open rebellion, preached to the Bakara
a war against the Turks (Egyptians), the troops of Fashoda,
regulars and irregulars, plundered the Arab villages to the east
of the Nile, and drove loyal inhabitants into the rebels' arms.
Rauf Pasha now probably saw that it was impossible to quench
a fire with oil, so he gave strict orders to the Governor of
Fashoda to retire on that town, and to act entirely on the
defensive.

In the meantime, the Mahdi had taken up a fortified posi-
tion in the mountains on the other side of Fashoda, and openly
- declared his intention of remaining there till the end of the
rainy season, and of then marching on Kordofan. His emis-
saries were sent out in all directions, inviting the people to
join his standard, and they found them willing enough fo
listen, especially those on the Blue Nile, where several
solitary Shurefw (descendants of the Prophet's family) and
Fukaha (priests of a low grade) possessed very considerable
settlements and lands. At this time, reinforcements to the
number of four thousand men, which Rauf Pasha had very
wisely requested, were being mobilised in Egypt. He had not
sufficient troops, and did not wish to take the responsibility of
using irregulars, or of fighting Sudanese with Sudanese. Un-
fortunately, the Governor of Fashoda undertook to show what
a capable official could do, so a very large expedition, led by
him in person, and which was also joined by the chief of the
Shiluk, marched with the utmost rapidity against the rebels ;
but as the soldiers were permitted no time to rest, nor pro-
vided with water or food, they were nearly all destroyed, the
leader also paying for his folly with his life.

Although it would have been an easy matter for the Mahdi
to have taken Fashoda at once, he refrained from taking any
aggressive action, remaining true to his programme. Rauf
Pasha was recalled, and the command given into the hands of
the Vice-Governor, Giegler Pasha, who commenced at once to
arrange a mighty expedition, composed of many regular troops,
large numbers of irregulars, Barabra and Danagla, of all kinds
and colours; and Yussuf Pasha Hassan, himself an irregular,
was placed in command.. This man was well. known through
Gessi Pasha's reports on his slave-dealing affairs. The troops

2 E

434 THE SUDAN AND EQUATORIAL PROVINCE

which Rauf Pasha had demanded were said to be quite un-
necessary; the Government in Khartim was quite able to
crush the rebels with the resources at its own command.

Whilst this expedition was still on its way, and amusing
itself with drinking mrisa-for an irregular never travels
without a pot of beer, a rosary for prayer, and one or two
concubines-the smouldering fires of rebellion broke out in
Kordofan and in Senniar, and the Government of Khartim
was hardly able to supply half the aid in men and ammuni-
tion demanded from it on all sides. In Sennar especially
things came to such a pass that the town of Sennar was set on
fire, the Governor and his few soldiers were driven into the
fortified barracks and there besieged, and the whole land was
filled with murder and the most shocking anarchy.

Although Giegler Pasha himself went with a small steamer
to Sennir, the Government would have lost the whole district,
had it not been for the united exertions of Salih-Aga, a very
brave leader of some irregular troops, and Awad-el-Kerim, the
great Shukurie chief, who personally led two thousand horse-
men into the fight, and so saved Khartuim from a like fate.
In Kordofan, too, villages were burned and the people mur-
dered. Communications in all directions were discontinued,
and if the situation improved a little after the victory in
Sennar, whereby the Government regained to some extent its
former prestige, yet the new Governor-General and Minister of
the Sudan, Abd-el-Kader Pasha, who arrived about this time,
found plenty to do.

As the official duties connected with my province fully
occupy my time, I am not able to write much more concerning
the last few days of my stay in Khartim. The situation in
Kordofan appeared to be very critical, and we all waited
anxiously for news of Yussuf Pasha's great army. - The news,
too, which came from Egypt gave us enough to think about.
Notwithstanding the extreme kindness of both Europeans and
Arabs, I was, as I have already said, heartily glad when the
steamer Ismailia, which had been placed at my disposal by
Abd-el-Kader Pasha, steamed into the White Nile, and I
had once more the pleasure of ascending its majestic waters.
Descriptions of this district have been too often given for me

AN ASCENT OF THE NLLE. 435

J

to add another; we could not land anywhere without running
the risk of being attacked, and neither soldiers nor arms were
on board, so we steamed direct to Kawa, which is the last
telegraph station and wooding-place for all the Khartim
steamers. j

The woods of acacias (Acacia nilotica), which extend for miles
along the banks of the river, have been considerably thinned ;
still they will last for many a long year to come, especially if
the present stupid waste of wood is somewhat curtailed. Of
course no one ever thinks of planting fresh trees. The traveller
from the north meets in these woods for the first time very
numerous long-tailed monkeys (Cercopithecus griseo-viridis),
screeching swarms of green parrots (Paleornis torquatus), and,
as rare visitors, and therefore all the more welcome, the small
Galago (Galago senegalensis), beautiful, easily tamed animals.

After taking on board a sufficient quantity of wood, and
receiving the last telegrams from Khartim, we steamed to the
south, soon left the last mountains behind us, and reached
Fashoda, where we received the almost crushing intelligence
of the nearly total annihilation of Yussuf Pasha's army; of
about five thousand men, hardly two hundred had been able to
escape. This, then, was the end of an expedition which had
been placed upon the stage in such a pompous manner. The
chief causes which led to this catastrophe were the thorough
incompetence of the leader, who scorned the advice of the
regular officers placed under his command, a carelessness and
heedlessness almost bordering on insanity, the indispensable
beer-jars, and the use of the beasts of burden for transport-
ing goods and courtesans from Fashoda, instead of carrying
water for the soldiers, who were half killed by thirst. The
town (Fashoda), in which only a few soldiers remained, was in
the greatest danger of being captured by a sudden blow, in
addition to which, the Shiluk, angered by the death of their
chief, who had accompanied the Governor of Fashoda in his
unfortunate expedition, refused to obey orders, and remained
at a distance from the town.

After steaming about twelve hours, we reached the station
of Sobat, which is situated upon the high south bank of the
river of the same name. It was erected by Gordon Pasha for

436 THE SUDAN AND EQUATORIAL PROVINCE.

the purpose of having the steamers coming from the Bahr-el-
Ghazal and Bahr-el-Jebel searched for slaves. This station
originally belonged to the Equatorial province, but it was sub-
sequently placed in the mudirid of Fashoda; the people, how-
ever, from Fashoda had only used the station in order to make
razzias into the country entrusted to my care; therefore, as my
complaints had not been heeded, and the station had also been
evacuated at the beginning of the present difficulties, I had
requested the Governor-General to make the station over to
me again, and he had granted my request. 'The reason I
asked for it back was that I wished, by reoccupying the Sobat,
and by erecting two or three small stations between it and my
station at Bor, to establish a post-road, which would enable me
to be independent of the arrival or non-arrival of steamers
from Khartum, and which I might also use, in case of blocks
in the Nile, to send my correspondence safely and expeditiously
to Khartim. After arriving at the Sobat, where some two
thousand Shiluk assembled to meet us, I was able to make the
necessary arrangements with their chiefs. The three days that
we remained there cutting wood were passed on the best of
terms with the natives, who brought very large quantities of
provisions for sale, such as flour, durrah, fowls, and fish, as also
straw mats; iron and tobacco were the article most sought
for in exchange. From the Sobat to the station of Shambe, a
distance of about a hundred hours' steaming, we had to pass
through a monotonous, depressing stretch of swamp. Broad
lake-like expanses of water, large swampy reed islands, tufts of
papyrus, groves of amba;j, and more rarely small strips of firm
ground, alternated constantly with each other, and only very
seldom could a solitary tree be seen. There was, however, no
lack of material for the observer, for hosts of various kinds
of Diptera would have gladdened the heart of any entomolo-
gist, and there were millions of bloodthirsty mosquitos, against
which it was almost impossible to protect oneself. Any one
without sufficient interest in entomology to sacrifice his blood
to the cause, would wish, as I did, to be again on land. - The
small station of Shambe, which we reached after more than
four days' steaming, affords the traveller a very desirable rest.
This station is really nothing but a wooding-place, and is only

BACK AT L&DO JULY 1882. 437

of interest because it is the starting-point of the road which
runs through the Dinka country to the Bahr-el-Ghazal.

It was really pleasant, after my long absence, to be once
more in my own district and amongst the Negroes, with whom
a long residence has made me very intimate. I received here
the first news from the Bahr-el-Ghazal, that the Rizegat on its
northern boundary had rebelled, and that the Bakara, who had
been incited by the emissaries of the Mahdi, were giving a great
deal of trouble to Lupton Bey, my former assistant, now Gover-
nor of the Bahr-el-Ghazal district. It appears, therefore, that
the most distant possession of Egypt, the Equatorial province,
is at this moment the only part of her entire dominions which
is perfectly tranquil.

The station of Bor was, as usual, in a very neat and clean
condition ; it is surrounded by extensive gardens, and its gar-
rison lives on the best footing with the thousands of Negroes
who reside in the neighbourhood, and who have learnt to feel
like men since I drove the Danagla from this place, and so put
an end to the slave-trade here. The Government, too, has
gained materially by this transaction, for the tax in grain, the
only tax which I have imposed, has been almost doubled in
amount. 'The people, who formerly left their homes, and who
preferred to lead a miserable life as fishers on the numerous
islands in the river, rather than lose their children, have gradu-
ally returned home, and have recommenced to cultivate ex-
tensive stretches of land which they had left lying fallow. The
whole district between Bor and Ladd on the west bank of the
river, is an almost unbroken line of villages and huts, and even
where the Dinka give place to the Shir (who are Bari), new fields
and plantations have started into existence. All that is needed
is to protect the Negro population, and unrelentingly to pre-
vent the old razzias for men and cattle; the Negroes will
themselves see to the spreading and increase of the population.
The Dinka, who possess large herds, were once the most
oppressed of the natives, and now they have already extended
far beyond their original boundaries.

Ladd, my capital, celebrated on account of its storms, its
thunder and lightning, and heat, suffered this year from want
of rain, so that in many places the first crops of durrah were

438 LETTERS TO DR. IIH.

spoilt. The drought, however, is at an end ; I and the rain
seem to have arrived together, for it pours in a continuous
torrent. It is almost impossible to see a bit of blue sky for
half an hour together. During my absence some trouble
had also taken place in my district. I was away, and the
cattle were tempting, so the people made a few razzias, which,
remarkably enough, their instigators had paid for with their
lives, for the Negroes have at last learnt not to be ill-used
for nothing. I hope that my people will remember this in the
future. - In all other respects everything is quiet, and the news
I have received from the south, from the Albert Lake, from the
east, from Latika and Fadibék, from the west and south-west,
from Makraki and Monbuttu, all tells of the greatest tran-
quillity.  Kabréga, king of Unyoro, has again sent me an
invitation to visit him ; unfortunately, I am at the present
moment unable to accede to his request, as other and more
important affairs await my attention, and therefore I have no
time for paying such visits.

6. TurE® LETTERS to Dr. G. ScuwEInxFUrTHX.

#

A JOURNEY IN MONBUTTU-THE MONDUG AND BABUKUR-DISTRIBUTION OF -
THE OIL-PALM-A COMPARISON OF THE FLORA OF UGANDA AND MOX-
BUTTU-MEETING WITH ZANDE CHIEFS-MUNZA'S GENEALOGY-RUM-
BEK CAPTURED BY THE DINKA-THE DONGU-FIRST SIGNS OF THE
REBELLION IN THE SUDAN-THE ORIGIN OF THE MONBUTTU-LETTERS
FROM JUNKER AND LUPTON-COMMUNICATION WITH THE NORTH DE-
STROYED-MONBUTTU MEDICINES-ARRIVAL OF JUNKER-BAHR-EL-
GHAZAL TAKEN BY THE REBELS.

BELLIMA, MoNBUTTV, June 21, 1883.

WurRE could I better begin this letter to you than amongst
the people whose name you first gave to the world, and at the
edge of one of those wonderful " gallery " woods that you so
accurately described ? It seems almost like a dream to find

A MARCH TO MONBUTTU, 1833. 439

myself in the middle of Monbuttu, and the spell of the illusion
is kept up by the strange forms which surround me, and by
the almost overpowering splendour of the flora and fauna, in
which I daily meet with new forms. And yet I really.
am in Monbuttu, and only half an hour ago King Munza's
daughter led her two small boys to me and told me of the
former splendour of her father's house.

It was a curious chain of cireumstances which changed the
direction of my route and led me here. You must therefore
have patience if my story is rather long. - As the transport of
corn and ivory was overburdening the inhabitants of Makraks
and causing complaints, I conceived the wish to visit the upper
course of the Kibali in order to investigate the possibility of
navigating it, so that, if possible, I might utilise it for the trans-
port of ivory from Monbuttu as far as Kalika. Our station
of Logo, situated at the junction of the Nzolo with the Kibali,
together with the station of Tambira, would then form good
points of support. With this idea in view, I started, and
intended to march vid Wandi and Ndirfi southwards to Logo
and Tambira, where I could take up my headquarters. To the
west of the latter place the road led vid Gango to Kubi
and Tingazi, our chief stations in Monbuttu, and to the east
through the Logo and Amadi districts to our stations of Kalika
and Wiadelai. - However, when I arrived at Ndirf, such dis-
quieting news of the state of affairs in the Zandé countries
came to my ears, that, instead of going direct to the south, I
struck west, and, passing by Tobo and Tendia, I reached our
station of Mundi, on the Dongu. - The report which had already
reached Lado that a large number of the Zandé chiefs, sup-
ported by their connexions in Makraki and Monbuttu, had
determined to withdraw themselves from their allegiance to the
Government, proved here to be a fact.

In order to make the state of affairs clear to you, I may
say that the chiefs mostly concerned were either those who
from being simple dragomans or gun-boys (fwrikA), had been
made chiefs by the Danagla, or those freebooters who by force
of arms had usurped the power of the real chiefs. A chain of
such robber nests had been established to the west between
Ansea and Wando ; another along the line of the Dongu, where

440 LETYERS TO DR. -SCHWEINEURTH.

the scoundrels had monopolised the ford of that river and cut
off our road to Monbuttu. They had been informed of the
difficulties of the Government in Khartim by their correspon-
dents in they were also well acquainted with the dis-
order and rebellion in the Bahr-el-Ghazal district, and they
therefore apparently thought the time had come for them to
play a little comedy for my benefit.

Shortly before my arrival in Mundi, one of them, emboldened
by the possession of thirty-five guns which he had somehow or
other managed to collect together, terrorised over the country,
and systematically kidnapped women. He also thought fit to
take prisoner an officer who was travelling from Monbuttu
to Makraks, to keep him a fortnight in custody, also to rob
other travellers of their arms and servants, and at the same
time to declare openly that he was the lord of the land and
recognised no authority higher than his own. This was too
much even for my patience, and in the face of the agitation
which had existed for some time in Monbuttu, it was necessary
to make some energetic move. I had, however, no soldiers
with me, for they had all been sent from Tendia to Logo.
When, therefore, a number of the small chiefs just mentioned

refused to accept my invitation to meet me, thus openly dis-
_- obeying, I went by night with ten men to the village of the
nearest chief among them, and before the people had time to
get their guns, I took him prisoner. With the greatest ease
I confiscated some twenty guns, and after I had assured the
people that neither they nor their goods should come to harm,
I retired to the station, and immediately sent my prisoner to
the east, where, during his banishment, he will have time to
consider whether or not it is advisable to play with the fire.
On the same day a great meeting was held, a new chief was
elected and placed in office, and then I marched as fast as
possible to the south to arrest the possessor of thirty-five guns.
He was, however, too quick for me, and had vanished, but
I obtained the guns, and therefore rendered him harmless,
even should he attempt mischief elsewhere. In a meeting of
more than forty Zande chiefs, the runaway was declared
deposed, and the rightful heir to the district was appointed in
his place; but the Zande were most impressed by the fact of _

ARRIVAL ON THE WELLE. 441

my returning to their relations all the women who had been
captured. With one blow, therefore, peace was restored and
the road reopened, at least here, whilst the district in the west
will have to wait a little.

Monbuttu now lay before me, from whence I was receiving
letters every day requesting my personal presence to put
matters in order. I determined to go there at once, as I
was able to spare a few days.

After crossing the Dongu near the small military station of
the same name (the river was a hundred and twenty-five
feet broad and eight feet deep, and had many rapids), we
marched through the narrow strip of Zanda country which lay
between it and the banks of the Kibali, which we reached at
midday on the 15th of June. All the Zanda call the Kibali
Makua. The Zande word Welle means, as far as I can make
out, "the river par excellence," in contradistinction to small
streams. At the place where we crossed the river it was
two hundred and forty feet broad, twelve feet deep, and flowed
at the rate of fifty-seven feet per minute. You may believe
me when I tell you that at this point I thought very much of
you, especially when one of my soldiers, who was born in Kuka,
made the remark that the river we were crossing was probably _
his river [i.e., the Shari].

We were now in Monbuttu proper, although the whole of
this part of the country is inhabited by a tribe which the real
Monbuttu call Bamba, and the Zande, Abangba, and which is
actually identical with your Abanga. It is a very interesting
fact, and one which illustrates well the movements and wander-
ings of this tribe, that the Mundi, or Mondi, of the Makraks
country are really identical with these Bamba, who, it may be
supposed, were driven by the Zandg to the east, and thus
separated from their relations many long. years ago. The
language of the Mundi, which differs entirely from that
spoken by the other tribes living in Makraks, is identical with
that of the Bamba, and many of my people from Mundi met
with their relations here. The and the
both aboriginal inhabitants of the country, known to-day as
Monbuttu, are also related by identity of language to both the
Mundu and Bamba. Another branch of the Monbuttu family,

442 LETTERS TO DR, SCHWEINFURTH.

which is at present completely cut off from all connexion with
them, are the Babukur, and they too are also found here in
the south, under the name of Mayanga. But excuse this
digression; it was my intention to describe to you my journey,
and I drift into hypotheses ! _ My learned colleague and friend,
Dr. Junker, who has worked here for so long, will treat of all
this far better than I can ever do.

At every step which I took from the Kibali to the south,
my admiration of the country increased, and the glorious
vegetation perfectly enchanted me,. I was very glad, there-
fore, to stay for a few days in Bellima, Gambari's head-
quarters, before proceeding to the south. - Many changes have
taken place since you visited Monbuttu, and now any one
wishing to study the people and their customs must leave the
beaten paths and seek out more remote parts of the country
than Kubi or Tingazi. - One thing, however, no misery, no
misgovernment, has been able to overcloud, and that is the
magnificence of Nature, its sublime woods and " galleries." © How
often, as I have wandered under these high domes, has the
beautiful old song occurred to me, " Wer hat dich, du griiner
Wald, aufgebaut so hoch da oben ? "

I have taken all possible trouble to utilise to the utmost
extent my few days' stay in this place, and have, of course,
managed to procure a few seeds and " curios" for you. - Owing
to want of paper, it has been simply impossible to collect
plants. The last steamer brought me only a very few news-
papers, which I had to use in packing bird-skins, &c.; but do
not be disappointed ; you shall, notwithstanding, have some
plants from here. I have very often seen the kole nut here,
and have collected some of the thick banana-like fruits which
contain the séeds. The people use the latter as a cure for
hemorrhage. I am afraid that those I sent you will not grow,
for I could not obtain any perfectly ripe ones. Another seed
is found in this country which is so like that of the kola nut
that it is quite possible to mistake it. It has, however, a
sharp taste, sharper than the strongest onion, and it produces
extreme intoxication if eaten. The Monbuttu call these seeds
envamu, and the great chiefs use them exclusively as an article
of luxury. A kind of nutmeg is also very common. - It grows

TRAE OIL PALM. 443

on beautiful high trees of the same kind as those I saw in
Uganda, where they appear to be confined to the lowlands.
The variety and abundance of species of Anona are very
noticeable. I send you the seeds of one of them, called moém-
bara, which yields bright yellow fruits larger than a pine-
apple and distinguished by an acid taste. If it were possible
to improve their cultivation, they would become a magnifi-
cent fruit. I have collected a considerable quantity of Elais
seeds, and if I return to Lado I will have this beautiful
tree planted everywhere. - Its most northerly limit in our
district, as far as I know, is in Makrakd, where I. saw it
spontaneously growing upon the small islands in the Yei. I
imagine that the seeds had been carried down the river from
the south. I see from a letter from Lupton Bey that the Elais
palm is found to the west of the Bahr-el-Ghazal district as far
as 6° N. lat. Seeds from there have been planted in Lado. I
may take it for granted beforehand that you will be satisfied
with the sample of caoutchoue I sent you. 'The juice was
collected, according to my instructions, without mixing it with
water, and was then simply thickened over the fire and smoked.
Masses of it could be collected in this country, as both species
of the Landolphia are very common. 'The juice is used in a
remarkable way here as an application in the treatment of dry
skin diseases. The affected places are painted with it, and it
forms an impermeable layer over the diseased skin. The facts
which you establish with regard to the flora of this land, namely,
the predominance of pure westerly forms and species, I can
corroborate with regard to the fauna, on the basis of my
zoological collections. - But this was only what I expected from
the first. The want of text-books prevents me determining
more than a very small portion of my collections, but I believe
that I have already collected much of interest and several
completely new species.

My stay here is not exactly pleasant; on the day of my
arrival the people commenced to complain of pricking and
burning in the skin, and several especially susceptible indi-
viduals suffered from small swellings, chiefly on their hands
and feet, as well as feverish symptoms. _ My turn came next;
purplish-red spots appeared upon my neck, face, and hands,

444 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINEFURTEH.

exactly like petechise, in the centre of which small hard pro-
minences appeared, accompanied by severe burning, and they
lasted for a long time. - The cause of this affection was inexpli-
cable to me, until I found that it was produced by the bite of
a microscopic fly, which is unnoticed at the time, but which
gives rise to the results I have just described. I hope that a
change of air will free us from this affection, but I am told
that these flies are always found where many bananas grow.
Now there are plenty of bananas in this country, for, whereas
in Ugidnda, the banana country, only three kinds are culti-
vated, more than ten kinds grow here, artificial varieties like
the dates in Tripoli. I have myself only seen four kinds,
differing very considerably from sach other.. ' One of them
bore fruit eight to ten inches long, and as thick in proportion,
which so astonished me that I immediately ordered a number
of plants to be sent to Ladd. - This fruit, although of a very
solid consistence, has a very agreeable taste, and is eaten dried
by the big chiefs. You have also tasted such dried bananas
(badingo), and said that you liked them; you will therefore
accept those I send you as a reminder of Monbuttu. Should
you require more, please say so. The banana groves, which
are here also left almost entirely to themselves, remind me
forcibly of Unyéro and Uganda; but what an immense dif-
ference there is between those countries and Monbuttu !

The reason for this difference may be found, first, in 'the
country itself. Uganda lies at a much higher altitude than
Monbuttu, where two careful hypsometrical observations gave
an altitude for Bellima of only about 2500 feet, which, when
carefully calculated, will be probably considerably increased.
On this account, also, the flora in Uganda cannot compete
with that in Monbuttu; and although the same "gallery"
formation may be found there bordering the deepest water-
courses, it never, as far as I know, attains in that country the
overwhelming luxuriance which is seen here, and any single
species, whether tree or bush, never reaches such gigantic
dimensions there as here. The best proof I can give of this
thorough difference is the absence of palms in Ugdnda, where,
with the exception of the Phoenix spinosa, a few dolébs, and
a species of Calamus, no further examples of this family are

ZANDE VISITORS. 445

to be found. The doléb palm appears to be also very rare in
Monbuttu, but it is said to be common in the plains of the
Meaje and Mabode tribes.

Tinaazt, July 8, 1883.

If I were to describe to you the road which led me from
Bellima to this place, I should tire you just as much as it
tired me. - Probably with the idea of preventing me seeing his
villages, Gambari chose a road which led through the virgin
forest, and which at last confused his own guides, so that I
was very glad when we hit upon a few Momvi huts in the
middle of the forest, and when some of their occupants led us
to our small station of Maigo. On our first day's march wo
forded the Gadda, which flows not far from Bellima; we then
met with a number of its tributaries, often larger than the
river itself; fortunately, the water in them was not very high,
and, here and there, we found bridges constructed with the
boldness of conception well known to you. So all went off
well, and my experience is the richer, for I had only seen true
virgin forests before in Uganda.

When we were about an hour's march from Tingazi, we came
to the village of Nenja, which is situated on a high hill, and
is the residence of Yangara, who received us in a circle of his
wives and people. He expressed a wish for us to remain, but
we were obliged to decline the invitation, and to continue our
journey to the station, where we made, unfortunately, a very
short stay, as we had to start on our return journey the
very next day. To me the time passed like a dream ; almost
too much of it was taken up by visitors from all directions.
Let me call to mind the most interesting of them. From the
west came the Zande chiefs, Bori, son of Manji, and grandson
of Ntikkima-Kifa, who had never entered one of our stations
before; Mbru, a very aged, jovial fellow, with long white hair
and a beard dyed red; Masonze, a special friend and host of
Dr. Junker; Mbittima, Wando's eldest son, who has made
himself a home among the Abisanga, and in whose favour it
may be said that he is totally unlike his father. Bakangai
had died a natural death a few days before, and his son, who
is under Kanna's immediate protection, seems likely to succeed

436 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

him. I have sent men with presents to Kanna, for I am
very desirous of establishing friendly relations with him.
Hitherto he has always kept very much aloof; but the expe-
rience this part of the country had of the Danagla, who pro-
fessed to be officials, was scarcely calculated to inspire him
with a desire for annexation, or even with confidence. This
has now been remedied, I hope; I have acted honestly, and
the new organisation of the country may be more in accordance
with its needs and wishes, especially as it was drawn up after
consultation with the most influential chiefs-which brings me
back to these men.

The three great chiefs, Yangara, Gambari, and Kadabo,
now rule the north of this country from west to east. The
two latter are parvenus, but Yangara is a true Monbuttu
prince, though sprung from a collateral branch. Kadabo does
not rule in Monbuttu proper, but in Momvi, in the far east,
and therefore may be able to maintain his position with our
assistance. - How long Gambari will be able to do so is very
problematical, considering his ceaseless intrigues and plots.
It is his intention to collect all the arms he can get hold of,
and then to occupy the Mabode district, where his favourite
brother, Arama, is said to have established a dominion already.
I will watch these proceedings for some time longer, and then,
if there is no improvement, I will request that the rifles be
given up, and will look out for another chief who is legitimate,
and at the same time more sensible than Gambari. Yangara,
on the other hand, was an excellent companion during my stay
at Tingazi. He is somewhat timid, perhaps more so than is
desirable in a man of his position, but he is honourable and
prudent, and has hitherto proved a trustworthy ally. When
Ghattas's people killed Munza, they of course divided his
wives between them, and in some way or other it came to pass
that Munza's youngest and favourite wife, Kettivoto (called by
the Arabs, Tam Séina), is now Yangara's chief wife and adviser,
and seems to deserve the influence she enjoys, for she exhibits
much common sense whenever she takes part in consultations.
She is not pretty, is no longer young, nor has she ever had
any children-which is remarkable in a Monbuttu woman-
and yet her superiority is recognised, not only in Tingazi, but

MONBUTTU CHIEFS. 447

also throughout the country. You know, of course, what
an important position women occupy as a rule in Monbuttu.
Munza's daughter is married to Gambari. - She is a very arig-
tocratic and conceited person, and tries to hide her twin sons'
mixed blood by bandaging their heads all the tighter. It is
very noteworthy how much importance is attached to pure
descent in Monbuttu, and indeed among the Zand@ also, of
course only on the father's side. - Munza's sons, of whom there
are about fifteen living, are dispersed among the chiefs. The
three elder, Mbala, Bomba, and Bebe, have founded a village
on the Nomayo, where, according to the general rumours, they
perform wonders in cannibalism, and wait for the restitution
of their paternal inheritance. I was by no means favourably
impressed by Mbala.

Munza's brother, Asanga (Sanga), is certainly pre-eminent
among the Monbuttu chiefs of the present day. He hastened
to Tingazi from his residence, which lies two or three days'
journey to the south-south-west. We were unknown to each
other when I caused him to be released from his long and
unmerited captivity, and sent him back to his country, and
now he came to make my acquaintance. - He quite corresponds
with one's conception of what a Negro prince should be. He
was accompanied by a crowd of men, among whom was an
Albino with a long fair beard, and he brought with him
about twenty very elegantly painted ladies. It was long since
I had had the pleasure of seeing so elegant and fair a company
as the one which now came to visit me, and which was rein-
forced by Yangara and some forty of his wives. From the
multitude of chignons, I might have fancied myself at an
esthetic kettledrum, had it not been for the apologies for
aprons, which reminded me too forcibly of Africa - After
I had presented my amiable visitors with a few glass beads
and copper bangles, I brought out your book in honour of
the occasion, and you would have felt well repaid for your
trouble could you have seen the transports of delight caused
by your pictures, especially the Zande and Monbuttu portraits.
I can assure you that the "Mbarik Pah" * is very warmly

* That is, "leaf-eater," a nickname given to Dr. Schweinfurth in allusion to
his botanical occupations.

448 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFU RTH,

remembered, particularly by the Zandé, and that, when I inquire
after the names of plants or am collecting seeds, I am very
often asked if I am your fellow-countryman. It is beyond
the comprehension of people here, as well as in other parts of
the country, how a man can trouble himself more about animals
and plants than about slave-girls, and can show greater interest
in mountains and rivers, valleys and plains, than in making
raids on the Negroes' cows and goats. And the people are
certainly not to be blamed, for who has taken trouble about
these things from disinterested motives until now ?

I have tried to draw up a genealogical tree with the view
of acquiring a knowledge of the real ruling families, and of
distinguishing the numerous claimants and upstarts from the
rightful masters of the country, and now I have a fairly clear
idea of this subject, so puzzling to a novice. I append the
curious result of my researches :-

Erd. +

|
Mébolo. +

|
Menzigga. +
|

e Nl

| |
Takuba (Tikibo) Nabimbali

 

(founder of Western branch). + (founder of Eastern branch). +
|
| | 2C
Muapd. + Munza. + Sanga (Kebir). Abunga. +
| |
Sanga Mambelé. Mbala. Gongo. +
Zisi.

Ndula + (the family Ndula is properly Bamba).
Degberra. + - His sister is Dekera. +
|
Kupa+, Kubi+, Bondo +, Banda +, Enemasi+, Yangara.

N.B.-Degberra's sister, Dekera, married Nabimbali, chief of the Monbuttu,
who associated with himself his brother-in law, Degberra, and invested him with
a part of his territory at the expense of his son, Abunga. From him Yangara is
descended.

I should certainly like to have extended my journey a little
farther to the west, where every step would have brought me
nearer to Junker's farthest point, or to the south, whence I re-

DISTRIBUTION OF SEEDS. 449

ceived a pressing invitation from Sanga. But there was so much
business to be transacted in the east that I could not even.
think of staying in Tingazi any longer. My zoological collec-
tions were increased daily by new and unknown specimens, and
I received many interesting objects, as well as much valuable
information, through the kindness of the chiefs. My vocabulary
of the Monbuttu language was making rapid progress ; I there-
fore left with the greater regret, after a stay of barely eight
days. The official business was despatched to the satisfaction
of all concerned, and I venture to hope that Monbuttu will
enjoy henceforth a well-regulated and orderly administration.

I distributed among the chiefs a large quantity of seeds
which I had brought with me from Ladd and Makrakd, as well
as some loads of white durrah from Makraké, which we wish
to try here. Only eleusine has been cultivated here up to
the present, and that too in very insignificant quantities.
Bananas, sweet potatoes, Colocasia, manioc, yams, Helmia,
and gourds are found everywhere, and suffice to support life.
Maize of good quality is rather to be considered a delicacy.
The tobacco, which our officers have begun to cultivate from
Gadaref seeds, is excellent. Wheat and rice are to be tried
this year, and lemons, pomegranates, and figs promise to be a
success. I sent vine stocks and guavas from Ladd. This is
all very good so far, but the want of butcher's meat is much
felt in the long run, though perhaps we should call the micro-
scopical fowls meat out of politeness. I hope I may be able
to arrange for the transport of large numbers of animals,
especially goats, from Logo (your Maoggu, and probably Baker's
Malegga), not for consumption, but for breeding purposes, in
order that they may gradually spread over the country.

BoxaERE's VILLAGE, NEAR THE Doxav, July 22, 1883.

It had been my intention to go due east from Gambari's
residence to the stations in Kadabo's territory, and thence to
reach our station, Logo, where the main body of my men was
waiting for me. - But it was not to be. The return journey
from Tingazi was rendered so much more difficult by continuous

rains that we had to construct bridges over most of the larger
2 K

450 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH,

streams-and there were only too many of these-before we
could cross them. You would have been delighted to see the
Governor of the province working in the deep water, axe in
hand. The Monbuttu are poor hunters, and swimmers are
very rarely found among them.

Shortly before reaching Bellima, I received letters which
upset all my plans and obliged me to make a forced march
northwards to this place instead of going eastwards. The
Dinka had surprised Rumbék during profound peace, put all the
garrison and inhabitants to sword, and carried off weapons,
ammunition, stores, &c. I am quite at a loss to understand
how this happened, and how the people could have acted
thus without any incentive-but that is just it! What can
the incentive have been? I had sent off sufficient rein-
forcements to Aysk and Rumbék since the Dinka on the
Bahr-el-Ghazal had become refractory, so that I have nothing
to reproach myself with. However, I at once forwarded a de-
tachment to march from Gambari's past Gango to Logo, and
bring the men assembled there to I resolved to
make for Makraki myself by the shortest way, to send forward
reinforcements from there, and, when the greater part of the
men from Logo had arrived, to go north with them.

We followed the old road from Gambari's residence to
Mbaga's village, Negunda, and then, after a good march of
about seven hours, reached the Kibali, which wo crossed
immediately. The Dongu flows into it just at this place, and
a hypsometrical observation gave the height as 21 71 feet,
which agrees pretty well with the altitudes obtained of the
stations Mundi and Dongu, and of this village (Bongere's).
Immediately after leaving the river, we entered the boundless
steppe; there were tall, sharp grasses, marshy pools, genuine
papyrus swamps, and very scanty woods. We wandered for
two whole days in this chaos of grass, making a road for
ourselves, for there was no path most of the way, and you know
what that work is. The guides we had taken with us proved
incompetent from the first, and so we had only the compass to
depend on. We passed some Zands dwellings, standing by
brooks amidst the woods which line both banks, but they were
deserted, so that we could gain no information about the way.

 

THE DONGU RIVER, 451

At last I ordered a halt, and went forward myself in quest of
huts and guides, when, as luck would have it, I came upon
some dwellings, the occupants of which, being subjects of
Ikwa (Wando's son, and a friend of mine), gave me a guide,
who conducted us to Bongere's village, where we arrived
towards three o'clock in the morning.

I shall go on again to-morrow morning, if the few porters
I have asked for arrive. We are now in the middle of the
Zande country, a " gallery " wood still reminding us occasionally
that we are yet far to the south. Hunting being the chief
occupation of the people, their dwellings are scattered singly
over the country, and enormous tracts of land are purposely
left uncultivated, partly as a protection against the attacks of
enemies, but still more as refuges for all kinds of game, for the
Zande like meat above all things, and human flesh, though it
is preferred, cannot always be easily obtained.

The Dongu lies about an hour's journey to the south of this
place, and has flooded the country far and wide; in the dry
season, it can easily be forded even here. I believe I have
now determined its lower course almost completely, having
seen it at four different points. Its abundance of water may
easily be accounted for by its draining the numberless swamps
and marshy hollows which intersect the country between here
and the highlands of Makrakd, and contain an ample supply of
water all the year round. It is still an undecided question
whence the Dongu comes, but most probably it descends from
the mountains round Janda and Korobé. If I return from
the north with a whole skin, one of my first tasks shall be to
visit the western slopes of the Kaliké mountains, and then to
hunt up the source of the Kibali more to the south. All our
maps are incorrect, and I am inclined to believe that the posi-
tion of Monbuttu must be slightly altered. Dr. Junker is the
most competent authority on this point, and I will not fore-
stall him.

Junker was still in the west when I last heard from Lupton
Bey, though he intended to go shortly to Dem Soliman on his
way home. But, as Lupton told me in the same letter that
the road to Meshra-er-Rek was blocked by the Dinka, and
could be traversed only with an escort of a couple of hundred

4823 LETTERS TO DR. SCAWEINFURTH.

men, I have written to Junker inviting him to come to us
through Monbuttu, for his own sake and that of his collections,
as Herr Bohndorff is still staying somewhere near Zemio's. At
the same time I sent the necessary orders to all our stations to
give him assistance and supply him with porters. If he likes
to take this opportunity of surveying the upper course of the
Kibali on the way, there is nothing to prevent him; he has
only to proceed along the road which it was originally my in-
tention to have followed. I handed the letter for him to the son
of the Zand chief, Mbru, together with a letter to Bohndorff,
and I am convinced that the latter gentleman has received
them by this time. So I shall hope to see Dr. Junker again
before his departure.

Tomar¥, August 10, 1883.

I have had some hard marches, and well earned the few
days' rest that have fallen to my share. Bongere was kind
enough to procure me quickly the porters I wanted, and in two
long days' march we reached the village of Bodio, another Zande
chief, where we were to change our porters. But this chief
did not show himself, and sent a downright refusal in answer
to my invitation. I had no men with me except my servants,
so it was best to keep quiet, and employ the porters, whom I
had detained in expectation of what might occur, for one
day more. I settled my men, and stored my small quantity of
baggage in the village of a friendly Zande interpreter, dismissed
the porters, and hurried forward to requisition others among
the Abakd chiefs. I was so successful that I had all my men
and goods with me again within three days, and then we went
on towards our station, Tomayd, in rather short marches, for the
tall grass was very troublesome. We reached this place the
day before yesterday, and on the way I was able to get a small
supply of durrah from Chief Tomay&, who has settled about
three hours' journey from here; I had not tasted any for a long
time, and it was quite a godsend after my long abstinence in
the land of the root-eaters.

I must now wait until the men arrive from Ldgo, which may
not be for a couple of days more, and I am trying to turn the
little free time that is left me to the best account. It is very

THE DPINKA REYVOLT. 453

interesting to find forms so far to the north which I have
hitherto only seen in Monbuttu; the wooded margins of the
brooks especially remind me of that country.

The comet year is not yet over, I hear from Lado that
diluvial rains are continuing day and night without intermission,
and in the south it must be still worse, if possible, for the
Bahr-el-Jebel has overflowed its banks and flooded Lado, just
as in 1879, when the obstructions in the river cut us off from
the world for nearly two years. God save us from a repetition
of such misery !

The old zertba, Sherifi, now Golk-el-Hassan, has been burnt
down, with all its inhabitants, and Hassan himself is slain. The
Dinka seem to be in downright earnest this time. All the
people from Sabi and Kanna have fled to our territory, and
though I am glad of the addition to our strength, it is an
unwelcome proof that the conflagration continues to spread.
Our frontier districts are also disturbed, but we have at present
no further misfortune to complain of.

A letter from Lupton Bey reached me just in the nick of
time, before the way was closed, for all our communications
with the Bahr-el-Ghazal are now interrupted, and may remain
so for some time. He has sent me a new map of the territory
under his command, based upon a large number of observa-
tions he has taken to determine the position of certain points,
or, at any rate, their latitude. I am sending the original to
Dr. Behm for publication, but I will take a copy for you as
soon as I have time, and will enclose it in this letter, 'The
names in their English form will no doubt puzzle you as much
as myself. I have only been able to recognise a few of them
in their new dress, though for years I have been familiar
with names of places in this country. 'The hydrographical
data, however, on this map are exceedingly interesting, and in
many cases at variance with the views entertained at present.
Lupton tells me that he has seen with his own eyes almost all
that he has drawn, and I am really glad that he has been
working so industriously. _ With the addition of your labours,
and those of Junker and Casati, we might at last attain that
great desideratum, a good map of Egypt's Equatorial territory.
In Government circles no interest seems to be taken in it, nor

454 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

is the need of it felt, and so the matter is left to private
enterprise. I would set to work at the task myself were I
more than a dilettante in geography.

But do not therefore suppose that I am idle. On the con-
trary I have, alas! scarcely time enough for my most pressing
private work, and hence it happens that my preparatory work
for an ethnographical map of our territory has by no means
come to an end at present, though I have been engaged on it
for a long time. I am looking forward very eagerly to a com-
parison of the Monbuttu vocabulary with other north-western
languages. - The oldest people of the country, and those
best acquainted with their history, as far as this word is
appropriate here, told me that their forefathers came from the
north-west, and, after passing a large lake (without any outlet !),
reached the Kibali, which they gradually crossed to occupy
their present country. _ Without venturing on further conjec-
tures, I may suggest that an attempt to search out points of
resemblance in languages farther to the north might perhaps
be successful. For instance, it would be very interesting to
compare the proper language of Darfur. A very complete
vocabulary of it was compiled at the time of Purdy and Prout's
expeditions, as I have heard from some of the men who accom-
panied them, but what has become of it I cannot say.

This is a high day for me. I have received letters from
Lupton Bey and Dr. Junker, the one written from Dombo on
June 2d, the other from " my zertb« near Zemio, seven days'
march south-west of (Schweinfurth's) Dem Guju." "I can
look back to my last journey in the west with satisfaction, and
the more so that I have returned in comparatively good health
after my many exertions. The regions I have traversed are
more extensive than I supposed. They are nominally under
Egyptian rule, and yield constant supplies of ivory. I have
made a circular tour of four and a half months' duration,
travelling from here south-westwards to the Welle in fifteen
days, which I reached at a point about four to five days' march
west of its confluence with the Bomokandi. - The latter river,
with which you must be acquainted (it is the Nomayo), runs
up from the south-east, and Bakangai's and Kanna's territories
skirt its southern banks. A-Babua dwell near, on the southern

JUNKERS EXPLORATIONS. 455

shore of the Welle, besides some isolated descendants of the
A-Zande princes. I turned my steps thence towards the
north-west, and came upon the Welle again at the end of ten
days. The whole district up to this point is inhabited by
Banjia, who are akin to the A-Zandeé. A great number of
strange tribes people the farther bank of the Welle and its
labyrinthine archipelago. - Later on I crossed the Mbomu
farther to the north; it is an important tributary of the
Welle, which, rising in the eastern A-Zands domain, near
my route from Dem Bekir to Ndoruma, flows southwards, and
enters the Welle still farther to the west than I penetrated.
I made a circuit to the north through the territory of numerous
tribes which are now broken up, and reached my headquarters
again at this place."

This is the most important part of Dr. Junker's letter, and
as he declares that his journey is ended, and that he is only
waiting for " a favourable opportunity to return home," he
will, I hope, give you in person an account of his toils and
struggles, his work and labour. I have written again both to
him and to Lupton, and, considering the difficulties in the
Bahr-el-Ghazal, where Lupton has to put forth all his energy
to protect himself and his province, I have invited Junker to
come to us, where greater quietness prevails (may it continue '!),
and where his departure will depend only on the arrival of the
steamer. I hope he will consider my proposal, and act accord-
ingly. I cannot conceive what the views of the people at
Khartim are concerning these districts, whether they imagine
that our handful of men are a sufficient protection in them-
selves, and that all the Negroes together are no match for us.
Lupton has been expecting a steamer for the last nine months.
I had myself to wait eight months, and then after all I did
not get the very things I wanted. Well, we will do our duty,
and if cireumstances become still more complicated and we are
worsted, the Government will only have itself to blame.

Lupton Bey has sent me a great many very interesting
notes about his southern territory, but I refrain from discussing
them, as I am going to send them to Dr. Behm with the map.
Lupton defends the connexion of the Welle with the Congo
most warmly, which, however, seems no longer possible after

436 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

Junker's disclosures quoted above. _ To judge from information
I have received from some of our men who came from the
south, it seems that Junker's Kibi must be considered as only
a tributary of the true Kibali, and that the latter river comes
from the south-east ; probably, therefore, from the mountains on
the western shore of the Albert Lake. - From the north-east it
receives the waters of two other important tributaries besides
the Dongu and Kibi. I send you this as an on dit, with all
reserve, and put off its verification to a future occasion.

The Logo tribes, whose language is allied to that of the
Midi, are still somewhat troublesome, for my stations there
are of recent origin, but there is nothing to prevent journeys
being made among them. - Travelling in this country is by no
means so difficult in any respect as is usually supposed. Of
course hardships are not absent, and one often gets wet, but
that is very pleasant in hot weather. I have long wondered
that no sportsmen have yet strayed this way, for we could
show them all kinds of animals. - But they would have to
bring provisions with them, for Europeans generally turn up
their noses at our durrah pancake (kisra), though it is very
good, when one has learned to appreciate it, and particularly
when one has not had any for some time.

LADo, October 19, 1883.

Here we are again in our old headquarters, but in what a
state! I have been very ill lately, and I scarcely expected
to recover; it appears, however, that my mission here is not
yet at an end, so I will set my shoulder to the wheel again.
My men are still in the Dinka district, where no further
disturbances have yet occurred, and so, I hope, order will
be re-established in a very short time without unnecessary
bloodshed. The rest of the province is quite quiet, thank
God! and it is being worked so steadily that I reckon on a
disposable surplus of about £12,000 sterling at the end of
the year. Of course the steamer has not yet come, though I
urgently requested that it might be sent at the end of August.
All our stores are of course quite exhausted, and we are vege-
tating, so to speak, from day to day, and hoping for better

FORGOTTEN OR FORSAKEN. 457

times. Will they ever come? The worst mishap, and the
one that has vexed me most, is the entire destruction of our
gardens by the river floods. My bamboo plantations, so care-
fully tended, and the lovely roses, are gone, while even the rice
has been drowned. I have seeds of the latter, but what of
the others? Only the guavas have benefited by the rain, and
they are now covered with fruit, which, however, no one eats
here, because of their aroma. The Elais seeds have not yet
sprouted. Cabbages, grown from French seed, have done very
well, and so have the carrots, though they are not sweet. The
vines are in good condition, but have no fruit yet. Peaches,
plums, and olives will hardly be able to bear fruit on account
of the great heat, although they are beautifully green; I
will transplant them to Makrakid, where it is cooler (Janda,
3300 feet).

November 29, 1883.

It is rather a long time since I last worked at my notes for
you. I waited from day to day, hoping that a steamer would
come at last and bring me news from you, but we seem to be
forgotten in Khartum or consigned to perdition. - On Novem-
ber 23 I was delighted at receiving a letter from Lupton Bey,
who had not written for a long time, and who now informed
me that a steamer had arrived in the Meshra, but had not been
heard of till a month afterwards, on the 11th of Akewal
(August 15), for the road between the Meshra and Jur
Ghattas was blocked by the Dinka, and could only be used
with an escort of several hundred armed men. According to
a note Lupton had received -the despatches were still on
board the steamer on October 14, and Lupton himself was
at Jur Ghattas-the Governor-General in Khartim has been
changed once more, and Giegler Pasha has gone on leave.

A European traveller had come to the Meshra, and as he
would try to force his way to Jur Ghattas in spite of all the
warnings of the people, he was killed by the Dinka, one and
a half day's march from the Meshra, the victim of his own
obstinacy. The unfortunate man may have been your friend
Schuver.*

* It was Schuver.-R. W. F.

458 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

Things are going on very badly in the Bahr-el-Ghazal pro-
vince; almost the entire northern half of the country is in
open rebellion, and Lupton Bey has lost his best men in the
repeated fights. He had never very many of them, but the
worst part of it is, that the Danagla are in close communica-
tion with the Mahdi's people in Kordofan. I quote the follow-
ing words from Lupton (from Ganda, August 20, 188 3):-" The
Arabs are, I am told, in company with Gallabas, determined
to attack us at Dem Sebayr (Dem Ziber) as soon as Hareef
is over. Slaves are bought and sold now for ammunition ;
three packets will buy a boy, five a girl, two girls a Reming-
ton." This gives a better idea of our circumstances than any
description.

But it is not in the Bahr-el-Ghazal alone that the Negroes
are disaffected ; things begin to look lively with us also.
You know, from Baker's book, about Chief Loron (Baker's
Alloron) and his intrigues against the Government. _ Since
the management of this province was given into my hands, I
have endeavoured to make friends with this chief, and until
now we have been on the best of terms. Nevertheless, he is
again the guiding spirit of all the intrigues here, and only a
few days ago he invited the chiefs of Belinian and Lokoya to
make a combined attack on Lado, as there were but few
soldiers, and no ammunition there, which, alas, is only too
true. We have held out so far, but it is very doubtful if
we could resist a combined attack of all the Bari. The greater
part of my men are in the Dinka district ; the rest are scattered
over a country which extends from 8° to 2° N. lat. Assistance
from Khartum-well, you see well enough what that means.
Old Mohammed Said Pasha and his men have been starved
out, and have had to surrender to the Mahdi, because they
were not supported from Khartim. It is doubtful whether
Slatin is still alive. Lupton is almost deserted, and I have no
arms and supplies.

I have had no news of Dr. Junker for a long time. Lupton
informs me that transport of baggage to the Meshra is not
to be thought of. I do not know what Junker will do now.
Had he come here he might have gone to the south if necessary,
for Kabréga would have sent him forward on my recommenda- .

MEDICINAL PLANTS, 459

tion. Casati is in Monbuttu, and is getting ready for a tour
to the south-east.

My collections increase very slowly, for there is nothing
to collect in Lado but mosquitos and bats However, my
herbarium begins to assume more respectable proportions, and
I shall soon get together a small collection if I go once more
on my travels. These are certainly castles in the air at pre-
sent. I have a most delightful piece of news to tell you -at
least I consider it such-namely, that the first female date-
palm in this province is now bearing fruits as large as a bean.
I will send them to you if they ripen.

You will receive another curiosity in the shape of a black
powder, which the Monbuttu extol as an aphrodisiac. Our
people here swear to its efficacy, and so I enclose directions for
its use. Only persons presumably sterile, whether men or women,
ought to take it. - The powder is composed of the ashes of two
roots, one of which looks and smells just like a radish. I
was, unfortunately, not able to obtain whole tubers, but I have
written for some. - Bruised leaves of a liliaceous plant, which
the Monbuttu and Zandé grow for the purpose beside their
huts, are added to beverages. I have brought four bulbs of it
with me, and have planted them for the present to keep them
from spoiling. If they blossom, I will send you a whole plant ;
if not, I will send the bulb in clay.

A quantity of sweet-smelling resin from the mpafu-tree, of
which I have already sent seeds, will do for analysis In
Unyoro, I heard the Amaranthus praised as a good remedy
for worms, and therefore I brought seeds of it with me; it
grows wild everywhere, and is eaten like spinach. Its effi-
cacy has been confirmed by trials in the hospital here;
perhaps something might also be done with it in Europe.
The leaves of the Papaw are excellent for inflammatory swell-
ings, as well as for swellings of the glands and for bubos. I
prefer it to all the other remedies I know. There is much
to learn here in this direction. But how is it that the
Papaw, which is looked upon as the type of dicotyledonous
trees with an unramified trunk, often forms branches here
which also bear fruit like the main stem itself? I am impa-
tiently waiting for the mango seeds to try and cultivate them.

460 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFUERTE.

Marquet in Khartim has promised me some pineapples, and I
believe they will succeed splendidly here.

Decembir 11, 1883.

A high day !-a letter from Junker! Two boxes of pre-
sents for me accompany it: medicines, nets, cases, glasses,
books, and, best of all, a small quantity of blotting-paper,
which I can use for drying plants He tells me that all the
paper and portfolios you gave him were burnt last year in the
firs. What a pity! Presents coming to one in the inte-
rior of Africa from the western A-Zandé districts through
Monbuttu are rather mysterious, and in this case they only
serve to gild the pill: Junker is not coming, but is going to
Khartim by the Meshra, and takes leave of me in this letter.
May it be his lot to reach home safely, and meet with the
appreciation he so richly deserves! He is a fine, warm-
hearted fellow. It sounds very curious for him to ask me
to mention in my letters to Europe that he is well, and is
thinking of returning. What must his views be of the gra-
cious treatment we experience at the hands of our Govern-
ment in Khartim-they almost spoil us, steamers are sent so
often ! The steamer left here on April 14, and this is the
I Ith of December! In itself it is a matter of indifference to
me whether I have any communication with Khartim or not,
for I learnt long ago to cut my coat according to my cloth.
I scarcely ever drink spirituous liquors, and I can get coffee,
which I cannot do without, from the south. What vexes me
so much is the waste of time. - Here I am, loitering in Lado,
where there is nothing to do and nothing to collect, worry-
ing myself in the company of my clerks, and waiting for the
steamer, when I might be working and collecting in the south
or east.

December 18, 1883.

By the post before last Casati sent me a closed letter for
you [it has not reached its destination], asking me at the same
time to read the contents. As I replied that the letter was
fastened when it arrived, he sent me a copy yesterday. It
contains some very sensible opinions, but also, to my regret,

DR. JUNKER'S ARRIVAL, 461

a panegyric on myself, I should be sorry that you, above all,
should suspect that such demonstrations "to make my merits
known to the world" are due to my instigation. I must,
therefore, earnestly beg you to leave out the passage, should
you wish to publish the despatch. Excuse its insertion. I
have now served nearly nine years on the equator, and during
this time I have never resorted to puffs-though they seem to
be necessary in Egypt if a man wishes to get on.

I have some fine specimens for you from Unyoro and Uginda,
and I will do my utmost to obtain others. As my presence
is urgently demanded in the south, I shall probably make an
excursion to the lake after the arrival of the steamer, and shall
then have an opportunity of purchasing some ethnographical
specimens.

January 1, 1884.

A happy New Year to you! Will you sometimes think of
me during this year, and send me a line occasionally ? I really
need it, so look on it as charity. You have surely lived long
enough in Africa to have learnt the value of a few kind words
or a sympathising letter.

January 8, 1884.

Here is a great surprise; he is coming after all- Junker,
I mean. According to a letter from him, dated November 16,
which I received to-day through Monbuttu, he had started off
from Zemio's on that very day, intending to reach the main
north road, which terminates at Ansea's (Makrakd), straight
through Ndoruma's and Mbio's territories, or, if this were
impossible, by a détour to the south through Binza's and
Wando's districts. His letters from Europe had reached him
on November 15, and though he had made a day's march
northwards, he was induced by news he received from Lupton
Bey to turn back and direct his steps hither. Bo I hope to
have the opportunity of welcoming him here about the middle
of this month, and you can well imagine what a pleasure it
will be.

January 23, 1884.

This morning our friend Junker arrived here safely and in

good health. God grant that a steamboat may come shortly

462 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFC RTH.

to enable him to travel home! What a long talk we shall
have now !
May 27, 1884.

The Bahr-el-Ghazal mudirié has surrendered to the army of
the Mahdi, after Lupton had been deserted by all his men.
Sheik Keremallah, commander-in-chief of the army of occupa-
tion, writes to me that the whole Sudan is lost, Khartim
besieged, and that Hicks and Alaéddin have fallen, with
36,000 men, and he invites me to come to him at once and
surrender. It would be folly to fight without rifles, without
ammunition, without men that I can depend on, with Danagla
before and behind me. I shall therefore go to the Bahr-el-
Ghazal on Monday.

Junker has decided to try the route to Zanzibar through
Mtésa's residence. God guide him !

I am sending this letter by him. Kindly keep a place for
me in your thoughts.-Yours very sincerely, _ =

Dr. EMIN-BEY,

T1.

LUPTON'S LAST LETTERS-EMBASSY TO KEREMALLAH- WILD REPORTS-ACTS
OF TREACHERY-EVACUATION OF THE OUTPOSTS BEGINS-NO ESCAPE !
-THE EXPOSED STATIONS BOR AND RUMBEK DESERTED-RETREAT
TO AMADI-KEREMALLAH'S INCENDIARY LETTERS-BATTLES ROUND
AMADI-EARTHQUAKES- LOSS AT BOR.

LaD6, August 14, 1884.

I FINISHED my letter to you very hastily under the influence
of the sad impression which the surrender of Lupton Bey
and his mudiri@ to the Mahdi's men made upon us all. We
were hourly expecting our turn to come next, and to see the
Kordofan hordes encamped before our gates. It is but right
that I should now inform you of what has occurred since, though
I do not know how my letter is to reach you, if it does at all,
for we seem deserted and forgotten by all the world. I must,

A SUMMONS FROM THE MAHDL 463

however, in the interests of my people and of Junker, not
despair of a favourable solution to all these complications in the
end. I believe I told you about Lupton Bey's last letters,
in one of which he announced that the Mahdi's men, seve-
ral thousands in number, were encamped six hours' march to
the west of him, and that he was resolved to fight and die.
Another followed directly after with the news that, being left
in the lurch by all his men, he had surrendered his province,
and was going to Kordofin-he hoped also to see me shortly.
Together with this letter I received a despatch from the
" Emir Keremallah," commander of the army of the Mahdi
on the Bahr-el-Ghazal, summoning me peremptorily to. join
him at once in Assuan with my men, and submit to the
Mahdi. The whole of the Sudan had done so, Khartuim was
besieged, General Hicks and his troops, Alaéddin Pasha, and
all the higher officials were slain, and, if I delayed, all my
communications both by land and water would be cut off, so I
had better mike haste.

Now just think of my position. For fourteen months I had
had no communication with Khartum, or news from there, the
magazines were quite empty of cloths, soap, coffee, &e., and
though I had repeatedly pressed by letter for a consignment
of a couple of hundred Remington rifles and a sufficient
supply of ammunition, I had not received them; the whole
of Makraks, Rol, and part of Monbuttu were full of armed
Danagla ; in Lado itself there was a rabble of drunkards and
gamblers, most of them fellow-countrymen of the rebels-the
clerks of my divan, The prospect was not brilliant My
soldiers, of little account under any circumstances, were scat-
tered over a wide extent of territory, and their withdrawal had
to be accomplished with the greatest cireuamspection.

Accordingly, I asked my officials here, in open council,
whether they considered it more desirable to submit or to
prepare to fight. There could be no doubt what the answer
would be-the purport of it was submission. A letter in that
sense was therefore drawn up, and then we consulted as to
who should deliver it. The choice fell on myself, the Kadi,
the schoolmaster, and a few other men of this place, among
them one of my clerks, whose family possesses great influence

464 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

among the Danagla. - Now, I knew very well that my removal
would leave the way clear for anarchy, and that a descent of
the Makraké Danagla on Lado would plunge the whole pro-
vince into ruin. - On the other hand, it was imprudent to reject
the mission assigned to me, though it was evident beforehand
that I should never return if I once went to the Bahr-el-Ghazal,
but should have to go to Kordofan like Lupton. Amidst all
these perplexities, which were aggravated by scarcity of corn,
a fire broke out on June 1, dangerously near the magazine,
and in a very short time destroyed a large group of houses
and huts chiefly inhabited by Coptic clerks. Whereas previously
every one lent a hand on such occasions, fanaticism now showed
its worst side. I had to have recourse to the soldiers to get
the fire put out, and when I asked a Mohammedan clerk why
he did not help us, he answered, " They are Christians there ;
let them be." In face of such symptoms I bestirred myself, °
and in another assembly I laid the state of affairs before
the people, proving to them that my absence could only be
productive of mischief, and proposing that the Kadi should
be named chief of the mission in my place. - This man, strange
to say, supported me, and so the deputation was sent off,. Its
instructions were as follows: the status quo was to be main-
tained in the province until steamers and boats could be sent
to carry us to Khartim ; the province was to be exempt from
invasion under any form; above all, no violence was to be per-
mitted against the Sudanese soldiers. - This clause was inserted
in consequence of the arrival of certain letters, which threw
a light of their own on the situation. They came at the same
time as a letter from Keremallah to Dr. Junker, inviting him
to repair immediately to Wau and take charge of his collec-
tions left there by Bohndorff, if he did not wish them to be
given up to the Negroes. There were letters from Keremallah
to various officials (Danagla); they were copies of the one
sent to me, but being directed to them, were manifestly invi-
tations to disregard the constituted authority and desert with
their men; then there was a letter in English from Lupton
Bey to Junker, containing the information that Fashoda had
been given up by the Government ; and, lastly, an official letter
from the commander of my station in He wrote that

LUPTON'S SURRENDER. 465

three brave Sudanese soldiers had fled to that place, and had
even brought their rifles with them, one of them being Vonni,
Lupton's late orderly, a trustworthy man, who properly belongs
to this province, but had followed Lupton to the Bahr-el-Ghazal.
Well, these soldiers related at an official audience, that Lupton
had been betrayed by his own men, who had been in league with
the rebels for a long time; that the Danagla, directly after they
had occupied the mudirig, had burnt all the books and Govern-
ment documents, had opened and plundered the magazine, had
seized all the arms and ammunition which they found in store or
in the hands of the soldiers, and sold them to the highest bidder
for money or slaves, and finally had put the soldiers in slave-
chains. - The latter had their scanty food thrown down before
them into a trough scraped out in the ground, and within the
next few days were either reclaimed by some of the Danagla
as their former slaves or were publicly sold. You may imagine
how I congratulated myself on my decision not to go to the
Bahr-el-Ghazal.

Immediately after the departure of the above-mentioned
mission, Dr. Junker went towards the south, but remained in
Dufilé, to await for a time the course of events. - He was
kind enough to take all my correspondence, intending to carry
it with him, if necessary, by way of Zanzibar. I hope it may
not come to that, but that he may yet take the route to the
north. - As I was making arrangements to send all the people,
who are not wanted here, the so-called divan and its clerks,
to Makraks4, where, at any rate, there is abundance of corn,
another event suddenly took place there which filled me not
only with surprise but grief.

The head of the administration there, a certain Ibrahim
Aga, of Khartim, who had hitherto always proved trustworthy,
and therefore had been promoted by me step by step, though
he was a Dongolaui, had, it appears, been engaged for some
time in collecting the Danagla together from all the outlying
points, while at the very time he was writing letters to me full
of expressions of devotion and assurances of his undeviating
faithfulness to the Government. He had pillaged the maga-
zine in Wandi, and, through the agency of an Egyptian officer
who was devoted to him, he invited the few Sudanese soldiers

2 4

manis risks

466 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

and officers in the place to break their allegiance, but met witht
a refusal. - After this, on June 4, he started off, together witht
some Danagla who had joined him, the above-mentioned officer, -
and five Egyptian soldiers (ex-convicts). 'The boat on thes
swollen Yei had first been sunk by his orders, to prevent thes
news reaching here. They plundered the country all the way s
through Makrak&-Sugaire to Kabayendi, carrying off all theis
natives they could lay hands on, both men and women, and |
when they reached the station of Kabayendi, they pillaged not 1
only the Government magazine, but also private property. The
commander of the station, a certain Mustapha Aga, also from
Khartiim, was put in chains and carried off, all his property .
being confiscated. - Then the rabble went to Kudurma, wheres
they took up their quarters in order to prepare flour for thes
march to the Bahr-el-Ghazal, that is, to steal corn from thes
natives, and make flour from part of it and mrissa from the -
rest. - During this halt, the Danagla stationed in Mundi joined
the rebels, with their arms and ammunition, and there were:
only a few men left in Makraksa who adhered to us. But in:
the meantime I had been able to throw a few soldiers at least
into the district, and as it was not at all my intention to give.
up acting on the defensive, I confined myself for the time being :
to stirring up the Negroes against these men, and so far suc-.
ceeded that all the people they had dragged off with them;
returned to their homes. But dissensions seem to have broken:
out in the Danagla's camp itself, arising at first on account
of the captive, Mustapha Aga. - Letters and news received.
from deserters informed me that Ibrahim Aga was forced tou
restore all that he had taken from Mustapha, and was at last]
even imprisoned ; but in the end he took the road to Sabi,
accompanied by the five Egyptian soldiers and some of thes
Danagla, while the remaining Danagla and the Egyptian officer
already referred to are still staying in Kudurma. They intendfi‘
to wait there until the AAarif is over, and then to proceed to.
the north. Of course, they are in close communication with,
the Danagla who have remained ostensibly true to me, and I
should not be astonished if our present allies joined their)
seditious brethren at the expiration of the AAarif, unless help,
or good news comes from the north. f

#

¥

g

EMIN-BEY'S AMBASSADORS. 467

There are always rumours abroad in excited and turbulent
times; we hear tales and reports of occurrences in Kordofan
and on the Bahr-el-Ghazal, though no one can tell how they
have arisen. Letters from Keremallah to his countrymen in-
formed us that Lupton had actually left, and that he (Kere-
mallah) intended to go to Kordofan also, but there was no
other news. We were therefore the more surprised when,
soon after, a rumour was circulated here that Gordon Pasha
had entered Khartim with a large army, elephants, and
steamers, and, moreover, accompanied by a Sherif from Mecea.
Presently letters arrived from Makraks and Ayik, in which
the same reports were alluded to, and in one of them it was
asserted that a corps of twelve thousand rebels had been
repulsed before Khartim, and two or three traitors hanged,
one of them being Lupton's coadjutor, Satti Effendi, a faithless
scoundrel even for a Dongolaui, who had betrayed the Bahr-
el-Ghazal province, and then got off safely to Khartim. It
is certainly singular that this rumour should reach us from
three different directions. But the letters from Ayik con-
tained more important news and of greater consequence to
us. The members of the mission which was sent off from
here had fallen out soon after their departure, and the Kadi,
who had here assumed the character of saviour of his province,
did not shrink from declaring openly before the soldiers and
Danagla in Ayik that he was only going to the Bahr-el-Ghazal
to fetch the necessary troops, when he would return, and
after having hanged me, would have the officers and officials
beheaded ; we were one and all infidels, and deserved death.

_The schoolmaster was his sturdy supporter in these harangues,
-while the other three members were ashamed of the proceed-
ings, and remonstrated. From words they came to blows, and
finally the Kadi and the schoolmaster got the worst of it, and
' were sent back to Lado, where, however, they have not yet

arrived, while the other three members of the mission con-
tinued their journey through Sabi. I will refrain from com-
menting on this story ; it will show you what sort of men I
am obliged to work with.

Meanwhile the troops have arrived in detachments from the
south. - Much to my sorrow, I have had to give up all but the

468 LETTERS TO DLR, SCHWEINFUERTEH,

absolutely necessary stations, and have completely evacuated
the Fauvera, Fadibek, and Latika districts. - Some of the
soldiers thus set free have been employed to strengthen the
garrisons of stations situated on the river, but the greater part
have been ordered to Makraks and Amadi. The stations ot
Rumbéek, Ayik, and Bufi are also to be evacuated, for they
are quite useless, and monopolise three hundred men, who
are therefore not available for our help. If ever a steamer
comes, and brings arms and ammunition, I shall be in. a
position to reoccupy every post which may seem necessary.
These repeated evacuations do not tend, of course, to raise the
prestige of the Government among the Negroes. If the proper
course had been taken from the first, we should not be where
we are now. 'The mischievous prohibitive system, the half-
measures, the trifling with the slave-question, the hollow phrases
about the equal rights of the Sudanese-all these are bearing
fruit now, and my prophecies have been proved only too true.
I should long ago have sent an expedition through Bor to
the Sobat, in consequence of the strange absence of all news
from Khartim, just as I did twice during the time the river
was closed in the years 1878-80. But Lmpton's information
that Fashoda had been given up (Sobat has long been deserted)
makes me anxious about my men, for they would have to cut
their way through Dinka and Arabs along the whole route
between Sobat and Khartim. So this plan is impracticable,
and the only thing to do is to exercise patience. A few
days ago news reached me that Keremallah, while on the
march with his men (perhaps on his way hither !), had suffered
a severe defeat from the people of Sabi, and been completely
driven back; he himself had fled. Another version confirms
the facts of the battle and defeat, but says that Keremallah was
not present at all, but had gone some days before to Kordofan
in answer to a summons from the Mahdi. Supposing these -
reports are true, there still remains the difficulty of under-
standing what can have induced the people of Sabi to fight
against their countrymen. Abdullahi Wod Abd-es-Samat, chief
of this district and nephew of Mohammed Abd-es-Samat, is a
true Kenusi and not a Dongolaui, but there are probably genuine

Danagla among his men. Ho“ ever that may be, it would be |

#
F

f

THE NEGRO REVOLT. 469

a great gain to us if divisions were to break out just now
among the rebels themselves. The Danagla who are still in
Kudurma wrote to the commander in Wandi (I have the letter)
that if he did not join them by the 3d of August, they, the
Danagla, would make an expedition against Wandi. - To this
the answer was given that they might come. Nothing has
occurred in according to the last news I have received
from there, that is, up to August 9.

August 20, 1884.

I can now give additional particulars concerning the san-
guinary events in the Bahr-el-Ghazal. I learn from a letter
which was sent from there to Rumbek that the so-called farukh
(gun-boys), Dragomans, &e., have risen against the Arab occu-
pants of the zeribas of Dirir (Abu Gurin), Auet, Kuchuk Ali,
Wau, Bizelli, and Ahmed Audd, have seized all the arms and
ammunition, and are now in open war with the Danagla. In
consequence of this event, all the furukh of the Jur Ghattas
district, more than three hundred in number, have deserted,
and joined their brethren, previously destroying the small
station of Tonj, situated at the ford of the Tonj river. The
Danagla in Jur Ghattas are surrounded, and their communica-
tions with the west cut off. A certain Birinji is said to have
originated this rising. He formerly served as Senjak (com-
mander of a regiment) under Ziber Pasha and Ziber's son, and
was at last made head of the station Meshra-er-Rek, probably
in recognition of his services. Ibrahim Aga, who deserted from
us, is said to have met his death in the sacking of Tonj. I am
further informed that the Kadi and the schoolmaster, of whom
I told you, left Ayik ostensibly to return to Lado, but after
reaching Lesi they went secretly to Sabi, to reach Keremallah
from there, so they have deserted. Besides all this informa-
tion from Aysk, I received a post from Makraks to-day.
Nothing seems to be known there yet of the Negro rising on
the Bahr-el-Ghazal, but the news of Ibrahim Aga's death is
confirmed-he was well known in Makrakd, as he had been
there before-and " Doggoru," a small zeribe belonging to Jur
Ghattas and Tonj, is named as the scene of the occurrence. I
find Doggoru marked on your map as one of the streams forming

470 EETIERS TO DR. CHW EINFURTH.

the Tonj-there may, then, be a zertbe standing beside this
stream, and named after it. Communication between Sabi
and Jur Ghattas, and between the latter and Dem Soliman, is
said to be interrupted entirely. So my mission to Keremallah
is now reposing in Sabi, and long may their rest continue!

August 31, 1884.

Events have progressed a little. I had had no news from
our station of Bor since the departure of the steamer in April
1883, and I was in constant dread lest it should have shared
the fate of Shambé, which was overpowered by the Negroes
and destroyed. - Some attempts to get letters forwarded there
through Bufi by the Elyab people failed. At last I had re-
course to Befo, the Bari chief of the Belinian mountains near
Gondokoro, and offered him a large reward if he would send a
letter to Bor. He agreed to do so, and I handed him my
despatch on July 26. 'To learn the fate of the Bor people
was not my only object. When Shambé was in great straits,
I had sent off the largest and best of my barges there with
corn, ammunition, men, and one officer, and I had heard no
more of it since. Imagine, then, my delight when, on the
evening of August 24, a sergeant and eleven soldiers arrived
here from Bor, bringing the postal arrears and the best of
news. Not only was all going on excellently in Bor, but
the barge is there undamaged, and some men have escaped
from Shambé. The soldiers, led by Befo's man, had marched
from Bor to (Gondokoro in six days along the eastern bank
of the river, and had everywhere been well received by the
Negroes. - But the most surprising information came from the
commander of the Bor station, who writes as follows in a
postscript to his latest official despatch :-"I hear from some
Tuj men, who are now here (in Bor), that the river is blocked,
and that several steamers have come from the north, but have
gone back again to Fashoda." I have immediately made this
news known to all my people by a circular; whether true or
not, it will inspire them with fresh courage. When I was in
Khartum, I begged Abd-el-Kader Pasha, a very well-disposed
man, to grant me a steamer for Lado, and to assign the station

regan

GO00D NEWS. k 471

of Sobat to me, partly to prevent the constant incursions of
the Fashoda men into my territory, and partly to establish a
regular post to Khartim. The steamer would have brought
the letters as far as Bor; from there I should have pushed
forward three stations to the north, one of which was to have
been situated on the lower part of the Bahr-el-Zaraf, where it
is navigable all the year, and Sobat would have been the ter-
minus. - Thus the post-provided Fashoda still existed--
would have arrived at Khartium in about thirty days, whether
the river were closed or open, and we should have had the
additional advantage that all necessaries could reach us through
these stations, whenever there were obstructions in the river.
Sobat was granted me, the steamer was promised-and in the
end we were left in the lurch.

Good news seldom comes alone, and so it has happened
this time. I heard next that Rumbek had been successfully
evacuated, and that the soldiers and baggage had arrived in
Ayik, whence the retreat on Amadi is to be commenced.
This station is to be a centre for the defence, but it has lately
been greatly endangered, for a number of rebellious Danagla
assembled in the little station of Sayadin, and a Sudanese
officer, who went against them with some soldiers, was stupid
enough to fight and lose a quantity of war material. - My
Keremallah mission also is in Sayadin, it seems ; it only went
as far as Boiko, and then returned ; now it is in a dilemma.
As soon as the soldiers from Ayik arrive at Amadi, and have
joined those now there, who amount to about a hundred and
fifty, a vigorous attack is to take place. Of still greater im-
portance to us all is the news from that the rebels
assembled in Kudurma-they had regularly entrenched them-
selves-have retired and taken the route to Sabi through
Gosa, where there is said to have been a sanguinary collision
between them and Abdullahi Wod Abd-es-Samat's men. The
reports of this event are so confused that we shall do well to
wait for further details. The greatest anarchy seems to have
prevailed in the Bahr-el-Ghazal province ever since the retire-
ment of poor Lupton Bey.

472 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

October 22, 1884.

However much I should like to send you good news about
ourselves, I cannot, alas! do more than inform you that we
aro still alive. Every day brings fresh and often contradic-
tory reports, and this state of things will continue until a .
steamboat comes and satisfies our curiosity. - Meanwhile I have
transformed Lado into a very respectable fortress, with deep
moats, high ramparts, bastions, draw bridges, &e. If we are to
die at last, we will at least die the honourable death of soldiers.
And I believe it is not far off. I dare not let my men know
it, but really I have no longer much hope, especially as a later
letter from Keremallah says that Khartum is besieged by the
Mahdi in person, and has probably capitulated by this time.
Private letters which have just come from Dufilé contain a
curious tale,-according to the statements of Negroes who
have come to Fatiko, a large body of English soldiers, in
fine uniforms and well armed, have arrived at Kabréga's re-
sidence on their way to us. Can this refer to Thomson or
Fischer ? *

November 26, 1884.

Parturiunt montes, &c. The English soldiers are transformed
into a caravan of Zanzibar traders, who have come to Kabréga,
as usual, to purchase ivory and slaves. I have to thank
Anfina's men for this news. 'They have been sent to me by
their chief to beg that the soldiers might return into his
country, but this is, of course, impossible now. I have availed
myself of the opportunity to write to Kabréga and Mtésa, and
have enclosed letters containing news of us all to the French
and English missionaries, as well as to the English Consul-
General in Zanzibar, requesting them to inform our Govern-
ment that up to the despatch of these letters (November 17)
we were all well, though in great straits, and intended to
defend ourselves to the last man. I am certainly very doubtful
if these letters will ever reach their destination, but I have
done my duty, and if the Government in Cairo or Khartim

* Joseph Thomson reached the north-east corner of the Victoria Lake in
December 1884, whilst Dr. Fischer was there in December 1886.

AMADI THREATENED. 473

had ever thought of this route, letters and news might have
reached us long ago. 'They appear to have given us up a long
time ago, and not to think it even worth while to try to put
themselves in communication with us. The Danagla on the
Bahr-el-Ghazal are much more zealous, for they, from Christian
. -pardon! Mohammedan charity, are bent on freeing us from
the unbelieving Negroes and bringing us to the light of the
truth.

Should I at any time be able to send you one of the inflam-
matory letters which the so-called Emir Keremallah thinks
good to send us from time to time, you will be astonished at
the mixture of fanaticism, lies, and stupidity which are har-
moniously blended together in them. He has kept away from
the seat of war at present, and contents himself with writing
and threatening to appear. The combined troops of Sayadin
(that is, our rebels) and those from Sabi and Jur Ghattas have,
however, marched at his command against our station Amadi,
under the personal leadership of Abdullahi Abd-es-Samat and
Tahir Aga, accompanied by a very large number of Dragomans
and basinger, all armed with Remingtons. The station has
been attacked three times up till now, and three times the
assailants have been repulsed, and unless they bring cannon or
rocket batteries from Dem Soliman, the task may prove too
much for them at last. At present we have only to complain
of one man wounded. - The scoundrels cannot even shoot.

I have had no news from Makraksé for some days, but I
hope that everything is going on well. The Negroes, and
especially the Bombé of Makrakd, have hitherto shown them-
selves faithful confederates, so I am already richly rewarded
for the better treatment which I have always striven to obtain
for them. Signor Casati is now staying in Makrakd, for I re-
quested him to leave Monbuttu at the outbreak of hostilities,
as that country is too far removed. He thinks of remaining
where he is for the present, and kindly aiding my men with
his advice. Dr. Junker is here, and shares our joys and
sorrows. - His collections are lying in my house, well packed
up-will they ever reach Europe? We get along as best we
may. We have food, that is, white durrah, meat, and also
vegetables; occasionally fruits also.. Instead of sugar there is

474 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH,

honey; we make famous candles of wax. In place of coffee
we roast the seeds of Hibiscus sabdariffa, and I can assure you
that the decoction from them is not at all bad-it may even
be more wholesome and beneficial. Shoes are made here, and
very elegant ones too. We only want cloth for clothing, for
the dami@r manufacturers of Makraka have just gone over to
the saints, that is, have run away. I have asked Mtésa to
send us Zanzibar men with cloth, which I would contrive to
get from them by barter. I am still hoping, in spite of all the
past events, that we shall at length be released by the arrival
of a steamer from Khartium ; it would indeed be a shame if all
Junker's splendid collections were destroyed.

January 2, 1883.

I send you again my best and most hearty wishes for the
New Year. - Shall we be more fortunate this year than in that
just ended ? - You and all the rest of the world have doubtless
long ago counted us among the missing, but we seem to me to
be quite invulnerable, and not at all likely to be found dead ;
therefore I shall not resign the hope of sending you Junker
safe and sound as a present some fine day. It has really gone
very ill with him this time : the loss of his collections, a twelve-
month's useless and unwished-for detention, privations of all
kinds, no news from his relations, make up a very pretty list.
And yet I am glad that he came hither from the Bahr-el-
Ghazal in time, and luckily escaped from that wasps' nest,
though, indeed, only to suffer and wait. It is a pity that the
fine natural history collections from the Nyam-Nyam country
are all lost, and cannot by any means be replaced.

I have little to tell you about ourselves. On December 2
there was a hard-fought battle near Amadi, lasting from early
morning till noon, in which twelve of our officers and men were
killed and eighteen wounded, most of them by spear-thrusts.
This shows that the Agar Negroes had been summoned
to the assistance of the Danagla, and had come in great
numbers. Our men had stormed the camp of the enemy;,
and spread great destruction among them, but they were forced
to give way on account of the superior numbers of the Negroes,

EARTHQUAKES, 473

and they brought back their wounded safely to Amadi. Ac-
cording to the statements of bastnger prisoners, many Danagla
fell, and Abdullahi's (he is the commanding officer) rear is
endangered, Mbio's Nyam-Nyam having risen and burnt his
zeribas. The Agar also, having lost many men uselessly, are
said to have retired in displeasure.

Besides the events of war, we have to record those of the
elements ; two rather violent earthquakes have alarmed the
people. On the 26th of December more bad tidings arrived.
Our men in Bor had been nearly exterminated in a foraging
raid. I sent off two sailing-boats immediately with corn, men,
and ammunition, but I think it doubtful if they will arrive in
time to relieve the station. At the same time I despatched a
small body of men to Amadi to put an end to the Danagla
business. - The affair is becoming wearisome. The expedition
is composed of 165 soldiers and basinger, armed with rifles,
who have remained faithful to us, besides about 800 men
from Bombé, Mord, and Makraké, armed with spears and
shields. These, with the troops and basinger already in Amadi,
will more than suffice to stamp out the war entirely, unless the
rebels be reinforced by fresh additions from the Bahr-el-Ghazal.
I do not much expect it, for I have heard nothing for months,
even from the illustrious Emir Keremallah, though he used
to send me a threatening letter every fortnight. Fancy, the
scoundrel sent a robe of honour for me to Abdullahi! - The
gods alone know where my Bahr-el-Ghazal mission is; I hope
the Negroes have given them a settler, for such a select party
of rogues could not be got for any money.

January 6, 18835.

Talk of the devil and he'll appear! I have just received a
whole packet of letters from Amadi. My late clerk, Osman
Effendi, has come from the Bahr-el-Ghazal, and has joined the
rebels, with four hundred armed men and a rocket apparatus.
He writes to me, as do also Abdullahi and a certain Hassin
Ajib, whom Keremallah has sent to conduct us to him. He
says that resistance is vain, that all the Sudan as far as
Suakin has joined the Mahdi, and that he has just received a

476 LETTEERS.TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH,

letter from Keremallah informing him of the capture of Khar-
tum and the entrance of the Mahdi into the town, where a
large number of people are said to have died of starvation.
Keremallah is in Dem Ziber; thousands of Arabs and still
larger numbers of Bedouins (Bedwian) from Kordofan are with
him; Birinji, Ziber's old slave, will come shortly with about
two thousand men to reinforce the attacking army, and then it
will be all up with us. Letters from Keremallah himself were
also enclosed, with no news, but with copies of the two procla-
mations whereby the Mahdi is trying to establish his prophetic
mission (setting forth his connexion with God and the Prophet,
&c.), and a summons to the Bahr-el-Ghazal and this province
to join him. These are remarkably interesting documents, and
I will give them to Junker. Slatin and Lupton are said to be
in close attendance on the new prophet, and to enjoy great
honours ; but if that is true, why does not Lupton write? The
same day on which these letters reached Amadi, the station
was vigorously attacked, but the Danagla were repulsed and
fifty Arabs left dead on the field. Unfortunately, these fellows
spring up like mushrooms. {

We must wait and see what happens at Amadi during the
next fow days. If this affair turns out badly, nothing will be
left for us but a retreat to the south, provided we can still
accomplish it. There the great chiefs, Anfina, Kabréga, and
Mtésa, will readily receive me, and from there communication
with Egypt by Zanzibar might be possible.

January 12, 18835.

The apothecary who has just returned from Amadi denies
the truth of all that I have narrated above. There are, at
most, three hundred men before Amadi, and the letters of the
clerk, Osman Effendi, are intended to mislead us. It may or
may not be so : the retreat to the south is decided on.

Junker goes to-morrow morning to Anfina first of all, and
is taking my correspondence with him; if I overtake him, I
will send you further reports. I have faith in my lucky star.
God protect you !-Yours very sincerely,

Dr. EMIN-BEY.

DR. JUNKERS DEPARTURE. A77

TH.

AMADI FALLS, AND A PART OF THE GARRISON HEROICALLY CUT THEIR
waY THROUGH THE ENEMY-THE DANAGLA APPEAR IN THE NEIGH-
BOURHOOD OF LADO, AND THE NEWS OF THE FALL OF KHARTCM
ARRIVES-CONCENTRATION OF THE TROOPS ON THE UPPER PART
OF THE NILE-SOJOURN IN MUGGI AXD DUFILE-ALLIANCE WITH
KABREGA ANNOUNCED-REJAF AND LADG ASSAULTED BY BARIL AND
THEIR CONFEDERATES-DR. JUNKER'S DEPARTURE-POST FROM ZAXN-
ZIBAR-FIRST NEWS RECEIVED OF EGYPT AND EUROPE AFTER THREE
YEARS-DIFFICULTIES CONNECTED WITH THE RETREAT TO THE SOUTH
-UG&NXDA BEATEN BY UNYORO-CASATI'S DEPARTURE-DISCIPLINE
BECOMES RELAXED-GLOOMY PROSPECTS.

WADELAI, December 1, 1885.

I INFORMED you in my last letter of January 25 that Dr.
Junker, finding that the situation was becoming more and more
dangerous, was preparing to go to the south, with the intention
of taking up his abode with Anfina for the present, and trying
to put himself into communication with the missionaries in
Uganda. - He left, after Captain Casati had returned to Ladd
from Makrak&, on January 23. On the 30th, the barges which
had been sent to Bor returned without having effected any-
thing, for the officers there had refused to give up Bor, because
they had too many people belonging to them to march by land,
and the barges at their disposal were too small and too few.
They now asked for a reinforcement of three hundred men
and large quantities of ammunition, neither of which I was
able to give them. The valkil of the mudirié was satisfied
with this answer, and brought me an inventory, from which it
appeared that each officer had thirty to forty persons in his
household. Bor must therefore be given up for lost. - Mean-
while I sent a fresh supply of corn and some messengers with
another order for the garrison to come here-with what result
you will hear presently.

Being anxious at the absence of news from Amadi, I sent
an official there to bring me a true report of the state of
affairs. Before his arrival, or rather because they heard he
was coming, the officers resolved on a sortie, which was so

478 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWELINEURTH.

successfully carried out that the entrenchments of the Danagla
were stormed, their huts biirnt, and «part of their ammunition
destroyed. Abdullahi Abd-es- Sammzfl; and his brother Mahmud
fell on this occasion. Instead, howcérer of taking advantage of
the victory, the commanding officer'ordered a retreat, and though
the soldiers and officers urged him to complete the work on
the next day, nothing was done ; the officers caroused, the men
suffered hunger. All that was left of money and goods in the
magazine was wasted, and the fate of Amadi can no longer be
doubtful. I had written many times to the officer in command,
ordering him to send the sick and wounded to Ladd, and the
women and children to and finally, should the enemy's
forces become too large, to retreat in good time to Lado, which
is well and strongly fortified, or to enter Makrakd, where there
is plenty of corn. - But I had received either no answer at all
to my letters, or they were so worded that it was evident that
sordid self-interest had pushed into the background all thoughts
of the welfare and troubles of the province, and of the honour
of the Government we serve. In any case, I gave orders to the
chief of Makrak& to take corn and reinforcements to Amadi as
quickly as possible, even though the latter should consist only
of armed Negroes; but he did not carry out my orders, for he
could not leave the wretched Makraka spirits. Captain Casati,
who had an opportunity of watching the proceedings closely,
will be able to give an interesting account of them.

On the 2 1st and 22d of February I at last received more news
from Amadi. - Keremallah had arrived there in person with a
large following of clerks-including those that had been sent
from here-soldiers, and Danagla. - He had written to Murjan
Aga, the commandant of 'Amadi, summoning him to surrender.
A Sudanese officer from the Bahr-el-Ghazal, attended by some
soldiers, had also paid a visit to Murjan Aga, and invited
him to join the champions of the faith, but had not uttered
a word about Khartum, and Murjan Aga had been so accom-
modating as to let him withdraw unmolested. I can give
the remaining incidents concerning Amadi in a few words.
In a very short time the station was surrounded on all sides,
and cut off even from the river, though the distance from it is
very short, and then the brave soldiers had to endure days of

EVACUATION OF AMADL 479

great hardship. When the chief of Makrak& did at last come
up with reinforcements, and when men, hastily collected from
all the neighbouring stations, appeared before Amadi, they were
too late to break through the blockade. I cannot even yet
understand why the commandant of Amadi, knowing, as he did,
that relieving forces had arrived within two hours' march of
the station, never attempted a sortie. 'The soldiers before
Amadi were again and again led to the attack by their officers,
but lost their courage, and at last ran away. 'The chief of
Makrakd, instead of sticking to his post, collected his scattered
_men, and went back to Makrakia and his spirits. All was then
given up for lost. On March 28, a rumour spread abroad in
Ladd that the garrison of Amadi had cut its way through to
Makrak4. (On the same day I received letters dated March
9, 1885, wherein Dr. Junker's safe arrival at Chief Anfina's
was announced.)

Three soldiers from Amadi came into Lado on March 29.
They related that the soldiers had repeatedly urged their
officers to make a sortie and cut their way through, but that
the latter had always hung back, and probably intended to
yield to the enemy. At last the men became desperate, and,
led by six brave officers, left the zerib« against the will of their
superiors, cut their way through the Danagla, inflicting heavy
losses on them, and took the road (at least most of them
did) to Makraké&. - Murjan Aga followed them at last when he
found himself deserted. All the soldiers had taken their arms
and ammunition with them. - There remained behind in Amadi,
Hassin Aga, a Sudanese lieutenant, ill; Mohammed-es-Sayad
Effendi, Egyptian captain, voluntarily -after he had urged
the soldiers to surrender, and they had refused; Mustapha,
el-Arian Effendi, clerk, voluntarily ; also some corporals and
soldiers, most of whom were ill. I must add that this account
was fully confirmed afterwards ; the commandant of Amadi and
two of his officers had actually planned a surrender, and had
addressed a letter to Keremallah with this intention, but the
greater part of the officers retained their honour amidst many
faults, and the soldiers in particular behaved splendidly, though
for nineteen days they lived on cow-hides, and at last ate their
sandals, while their superiors drank spirits and made them-
selves comfortable.

480 LETIERS TO DR. SCHWEINEURTH.

Finally, on March 31, I was rejoiced to hear that three
officers from Amadi, with about 260 men, had arrived safely
at Wandi in Makraki. The troops recalled three months
ago from Monbuttu had also reached Makraké at the very
last moment, after their commander had put off the march,
under all sorts of erapty pretences, but really in conse-
quence of letters sent to him by the rebels on the Bahr-el-
Ghazal, urging him to wait for the course of events. Certainly
the incapacity, and often the downright malevolence, of our own
officials have played a great part in all the misfortunes that
have hitherto befallen us. Disobedience is the order of the
day, and every one seeks to protect his own interests only.

On April 1 the civil and military officers in Lado handed me
a document, wherein they petitioned that all the stations in the
south should be given up, and that we should restrict ourselves
to the line from Lado to Kiri. - Suicidal as such a suggestion
was, for we should then be confined to the most unfruitful part
of the province, and consequently throw ourselves into the
jaws of famine, besides cutting ourselves off from the only way
of retreat which would at last be open to us-unfortunate as
this motion was, persuasion would have effected little, and so I
had to give at least an apparent consent, and issue the neces-
sary orders.

According to the last news that has reached us, the Danagla
had sent off skirmishing parties to within two days' march
of Lado, in order to incite the Negroes against us, and had
then concentrated themselves in Amadi. Letters also arrived
from Keremallah and Osman Effendi on April 3. The first,
a sor-disant official despatch, told me of the events that had
taken place in and around Amadi, said that the garrison,
though summoned five times to surrender, had refused, that
then the siege was commenced, and that finally the soldiers
had forced their way through, and had taken the road to
Makrakd. Murjan Aga, the commander of Amadi, accom-
panied by the lieutenant Rabih Aga, had been overtaken on
the way, and both had been slain, their heads being taken
to Amadi. More than two hundred deserters, Dragomans,
basinger, &c., were in Amadi, besides many soldiers and
officers. The letter concluded with a summons to appear at

a
reams

EVACUATION OF MAKRAKA 481

Amadi with the higher officials of the province within ten
days of Jumadi-el-Alkhir 10 (March 26); otherwise he, Kere-
mallah, would march from Amadi against Lado on the 20th of
the said month (April 5); whatever might then happen would
be my own fault. The second, also from Keremallah, but
directed to me privately, informed me that he was only coming
to support me; no harm should happen to me if I would
come and surrender. 'The third letter is signed by some of
our own people, who have joined the Danagla in Amadi
(Mohammed-es-Sayad, Egyptian captain ; Yussuf-Bei, Sudanese
joiner; Abd-el-Aziz Aga and- Hassin Aga, Sudanese lieu-
tenants, and several corporals). These informed me that the
officers in Amadi were drunk night and day, while the soldiers
ate old leather and hides to appease their hunger, and they
invited me to give myself up, for that they, the writers, had
not received any bad treatment from the rebels. As Khartim
is not even mentioned in any of these letters, we may almost
conclude that our opponents had also received no news from
there for a long time. The bearers of the letters, two Negroes
of Amadi, said that a number of Jellabas had come from Kor-
dofan, that the slave-trade was in a very flourishing state, and
that the slaves I freed in 1881 had been reclaimed.
Meanwhile the Danagla in Amadi had not remained idle,
but had pushed forward their outposts again to within three
days' march of Lado, and had instigated the Negroes to slay
unmercifully any stragglers from Amadi, and to close the road
to Makraksa. This being the case, I was obliged to send my
letters to Makraki by the road I had lately opened through
Rejaif and Rimo. A detachment of the enemy had dispersed
the few officers and soldiers in Kamari, near Wandi, and then
marched against Wandi, which was untenable owing to its
position. - The soldiers therefore retired in good order towards
Rimo, intending to take the road from there to Reif. But
before they could reach it, the Danagla attacked them fiercely,
and were thoroughly defeated, losing a large number of men,
and flying precipitately. The march forward was then com-
menced, and detachment after detachment arrived safely at
Bedén, with their sick men and followers. I sent some clerks
and officials from Ladd, where scarcity of corn prevailed, to
® 2-4

482 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINEURTEH.

the south and to where they could find food, and
I was myself engaged in an inspection of the fortifications,
when, on April 18, I was again honoured by despatches from
Keremallah. - The letters contained the usual invitations to us
all to join the champions of the faith, but the most important
communication was the news that Khartim had fallen,. I
should find the details, he said, in an enclosed copy of a letter
from the Mahdi. - This letter, dated PRebi-ul-Akhir 12, 1302
(January 28, 1883), contained the news that Khartium was
taken by storm on the morning of Monday, Rebi-ul-Alkhir 9
(January 25), and that every one in it was slain except the
women and children. Gordon, the enemy of God, had refused
to surrender, and he and his men had fallen ; the Mahdi
had lost ten men only. The letter, written in old-fashioned
Arabic, and imitating in its expressions the older chapters of
the Koran, concluded with an injunction to Keremallah to act
in a similar manner here and in the Bahr-el-Ghazal. _ No
mention is made about a steamer being sent to the Meshra-
er-Rek, although it was such an important matter. I have
returned no answer at all to these last letters.

On April 19, the soldiers from Makraka came safely to
Bedén and Rejif, without being attacked again. On the
21st the boat which had been sent to Bor with corn came
back; the garrison still refused to come here-they must
therefore take the consequences. On the 23d a reinforce-
ment of 130 men marched into Lado, and on the 24th I
called together a council of all the officers to discuss the
measures to be adopted to save us from famine, and to guard
against unnecessary exposure to danger. After mature de-
liberation, and when I had retired for half an hour, resigning
the chair to Major Rihan Aga, in order that the decision
might be quite impartial, the following resolution was car-
ried, in the presence of Captain Casati:-" Considering that
there is not corn enough in Ladd, Rejaf, Bedén, &e., to
support the men that have come from Makraki as well as
our own people, that the next harvest is still far off, that by
sending out foraging parties we should exhaust our meagre
supply of ammunition and be left at the mercy of the Negroes,
while, on the other hand, it is impossible to procure corn by

RETFREXT TO THE SOUTIT 483

any other means-having regard to all these circumstances,
it is resolved that the women and children shall be sent to the
south, that the stations shall be occupied by soldiers only, to
the exclusion of all civilians, and that they shall be given up
if needful, so that all our strength may be concentrated in the
south. The line of retreat to be chosen towards the south,
because the route northwards beyond Bor is impassable, and,
further, we do not know whether Khartim has not actually
fallen, while we possess strong points of support in the south
at Dufilé and Wadelai, where there is plenty of corn and rich
lands in the rear. Finally, we should have a chance of send-
ing letters and men to Zanzibar and Egypt, or, if everything
went against us, of throwing ourselves into the arms of Ka-
bréga or Mtésa's son." The requisite orders were issued imme-
diately ; three companies remained in Lado under the command
of Major Rihan Aga. All the civil functionaries had already
been sent southwards, while I only and three clerks were left.
On April 25 I went myself, at the request of the officers,
to Gondokoro, to supervise the transport to the south, but I
soon perceived that the men were not really in earnest, though
the Danagla had advanced their outposts as far as Lado.
It was not only that they loitered and made evasions, but
rumours came to my ears which seemed to intimate that the
officers in Lado had determined, after my departure, to advance
to the north instead of to the south, a project which held out
no hope of success. I at once sent off an aid-de-camp with a
letter to the Major, ordering him to put a stop to these pro-
ceedings. In answer, I received a letter, signed by all the
officers, begging me to believe in their unalterable loyalty, and
urging me to go southwards as soon as possible and to manage
personally the transport of corn to Bedén, Rejaif, and Lado,
for the corn there was coming to an end. The impression made
upon me by all this was, that I should not be able to depend on
the gentlemen in Lado when in difficulties, and later events have
justified my suspicions. - Nevertheless, after staying a fortnight
in Gondokoro, where also corn was scarce, I set out to go to
the south, after first giving the most emphatic orders that the
Bari should be well treated, lest they also should be roused to
rebellion, and that as large a detachment of troops as possible

484 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

should be sent to Bor to bring the men from there, if it were still
practicable. A corporal overtook me at Bedén, who had been
captured near Amadi by the Danagla, and had escaped. He
asserted that they had lost a great many men both at Amadi
and before Rimo, and also that their ammunition was coming
to an end. They were busily engaged in collecting slaves
and sending them to the Bahr-el-Ghazal. Keremallah had
issued orders from Kamari to make preparations for retiring
to the Bahr-el-Ghazal; he was coming shortly himself. A
large number of men who actually came from there had already
marched off. The twenty-six soldiers who had been made
prisoners were to be chained, and employed in the trans-
port of goods. When the corporal heard this, he made his
escape with three of his comrades, but he could not say where
the others were, for he had swum across the river at Amadi and
left them behind. He said that the prisoners were neglected,
and suffered severely from want. The Danagla had fired twenty-
five cannon-shots to celebrate the taking of Khartim. This
was the first statement received from an eye-witness. Some
days later, the corporal's three companions arrived at Kiri,
having also succeeded in escaping, and they confirmed the
accounts I had received in all essential particulars.

I next went to Muggi, where I made a longer stay, and
succeeded in sending off to Lado a good quantity of corn and
some ground-nuts for making oil. - Meanwhile, several fugitive
soldiers from Amadi had arrived in Ladd, all of whom agreed
in stating that the Danagla were getting ready to march off to
the Bahr-el-Ghazal, and were in a great hurry about it. This
could only be explained by the supposition that their ammunition
was really almost exhausted, and that they had no desire to wait
here for the rainy season, when the swollen rivers would cut
off their retreat from this country, which is already famisked ;
possibly, also, they wished to go to Khartim as soon as they
could. Again, it was quite within the bounds of possibility
that the Mahdi had at last sustained a defeat, and was drawing
his men together. We cannot, of course, decide the question
at present. We first heard of the definite departure of the
Danagla when at Laboré, but no particulars reached us. I
stopped at Khor Ayu, near Laboré, till June 23, fully occupied

i t nllecrs Sammon

ARRIVAL AT WADELAI.® 485

in expeditions after corn, tending the sick-the wounded
from Amadi-and administrative business. - Captain Casati,
who had left Lado later than I did, overtook me in Labor.
Letters reached me there from Dr. Junker, telling me that he
had not been successful in establishing the communication he
desired or in forwarding letters, though he went in person
to Kamisoa, Rionga's son, and met some of Kabréga's men
there. A post came also from Lado with the announcement
that a Bari dragoman, whom the Danagla had carried off
from Makrak&, had arrived there. He had gone with them on
their retreat to the Bahr-el-Ghazal as far as Gosa, and had
then escaped. At the same time, all kinds of reports spread
through the province that the Danagla on the Bahr-el-Ghazal
were at war with foreigners and Negroes; even the names of
the commanders were given.

After sending off about four hundred ardebs of corn to Liad6,
I went at length to Dufilé, in consequence of representations
made to me officially by the Major in command of the second
battalion there, that he found it very difficult to send corn to
Lado, and could not also supply us at Khor Ayu. After I
arrived, the transport from Dufilé continued. Captain Casati
went on to Wadelai, and I thought of following him, partly
to see if I could not restore my former relations with Kabréga,
and send letters to Uganda, Zanzibar, and Egypt, and partly
to relieve Dufilé a little, for it was overcrowded. I left on
July 9, and arrived at Widelai on the 1oth; this is to be our
headquarters until better times come.

As we are cut off from all communication even with Makraka,
our only sources of information are, of course, rumours. 'To
show what they are like, I give you a translation of a letter
sent to me from Ladd on August 10, 1885 :-" We have
questioned Chief Kenyi about the rebels, and he tells us that
they went to Wau, and have been driven off from there; he
has heard that Bakhit Bey and Nur Bey are there, and an
Englishman of high rank with them. The inhabitants of
Fashoda are said to have risen, but also large numbers of
soldiers to have arrived there. After the festival the soldiers
will go to Bor, as you ordered. We hear from the people
that the Danagla have thrown the cannon they captured at

486 LETTERS TO:DR, SCHWEINFURTH.

Amadi into the Sayadin river. - One of their runaway servants
has arrived here; he accompanied them as far as Jur Ghattas,
and escaped, when they started for Hofrat-en-Nahas. He has
heard that war is going on in Shakka, and also that Nur Bey,
Bakhit Bey, and an Englishman are on the Bahr-el-Ghazal."
Such hallucinations are rife here, but the real fact is, that if
a legitimate Government still exists in Rhartum, as I hope
it does, it must have given us up for lost long ago, or has
supposed that I should hand over the province at once-the
most baseless presumptions possible. Shame upon those who
have forsaken us-without even asking after us !

It was now my principal task to open up the way to Ka-
bréga. Dr. Junker's futile efforts showed me that nothing could
be effected with the help of Anfina and Kamisoa. If I once
got command of the road to Kabréga, I might be able to send
a letter to the missionaries, and another to my old friend, the
Katikiro (Prime Minister) of Uginda, and through him-by
means of money and fair words-to the Arab merchants of Zan-
zibar who are domiciled in Ugiinda. This would be a great
gain. I could count on Kabréga's help, for he had always been
kindly disposed towards me, and received me warmly, while
two of the Arabs living in his capital were old acquaintances
of mine in Uganda, and honest men. At last, on August 21,
I succeeded in finding a messenger, who at once took charge of
letters and presents for Kabréga and Masudi, and promised to
deliver them faithfully. He started off early on August 22,
taking our best wishes with him. The following route was
prescribed for him: from Widelai to Faroketo, one day;
from Faroketo to Chief Boki's, on the lake, one day ; from
Boki by boat to the eastern shore, and along the shore to
Kibiro, two days in good weather; from Kibiro to Kabréga's
residence, two days; that is, ten to twelve days, including
halts.

I had sent men to Makraké from Rejdf, and news came
from thero at the beginning of September. All the stations
were untouched, but deserted ; some chiefs had been carried
off by the Danagla. None of the latter remained either in
Makraka or in Amadi; Abd-es-Samat's stations were also
evacuated. We have no news from the Bahr-el-Ghazal, but

RELATIONS WITH KABREGA. 487

fights between Negroes and Danagla are said to have taken
place. "Thus it is now certain that the country is clear of
Danagla; but are we any the better for that? - No one can
guarantee that they are not, perhaps, concentrating thomselves
in Dem Soliman, to return in January 1886, at the expira-
tion of the rainy season, strengthened by all sorts of ruffians
from the Bakara, &e. But suppose they do not return ? We
are a handful of men, with a very small amount of ammunition,
without supplies and communications of any kind, in the
midst of thousands of Negroes excited by the wars-and what
if these Negroes should rise against us? It is quite clear that
we have nothing to expect from Khartim, at any rate until
letters from us reach Egypt-so let us send letters at any
price."

I quote this passage from my diary as a proof that I did
not delude myself, but was quite aware of the true state of
affairs. I was therefore the more delighted when three of
Kabréga's men arrived here on the evening of September 20,
the sacrificial festival, and at once hastened to me. They
brought no letters, but greetings from Kabréga, and a hearty
invitation to come to him. Chief Boki had taken the letters
and presents from the man I sent, pretending that he dare not
send letters to Kabréga without his consent, as there might be
some magic in them. But he had despatched a messenger of
his own to Kabréga to tell him that the chief of the Turks in
Wadelai wished to enter into communication with him. There-
upon Kabréga had immediately sent off three men, with orders
to find out who the chief of the Turks was, and what he wanted.
Kabréga had suffered much at the hands of the Waganda, who
had made constant incursions since Mtésa's death. His men
formed a striking contrast to mine, being clothed in neat
cloths, while the latter wore skins. My men, however, are
willing and brave. There is no better and more workable
material for soldiers in the world than our Sudanese. - I sent
back Kabréga's men on September 28 with letters, presents,
&c., and am now expecting a proper embassy from him. The
great lords of the south will take their own time.

The Wanyoro had only just left when the steamer came from
Dufilé bringing very sad news. Bor had, after all, been de-

488 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

stroyed by the Negroes, just as the men were at last starting
to march to Lado. The Major in command at Lado had not
thought of sending a single soldier to Bor, in spite of all my
orders; but after the disaster had occurred, he despatched
about two hundred men there in a great hurry, without my
permission, and forgetting that that number would be far
from sufficient. They had reached Bor safely, and recovered
a quantity of ammunition, &e., but, instead of being satis-
fied with this and returning, they had advanced northwards,
probably at the Major's desire, had been beset by swarms of
Negroes on the Bahr-el-Zaraf, and thoroughly dispersed in
a panic, without having fired a single cartridge. Only forty-
three men out of a hundred and eighty have returned up
to the present time. - The immediate consequence of this was
that the Bari naturally revolted, having perceived our weak-
ness. - On October 4, in the early morning, Lado was attacked
on all sides at once by the Bari, Dinks, Shir, and Nyam-
bara combined, but the attack was repulsed. It is now be-
sieged, and I must send troops at once to relieve it. My old
friend Befo, of the Belinian mountains, is at the head of the
movement.

On October 19 some more men arrived here from Kabréga,
led this time by my old travelling companion and Dragoman,
Msige. - His instructions were to see if the chief of the Turks
were really Kabréga's old acquaintance, Emin Effendi, and, if
so, to put himself under his orders; but if it were another
man, to return at once, for Kabréga would not have anything
to do with the Government. The men were sent off in great
haste, and had not been able to bring with them sufficient
cloths or other things for sale. The Arabs had prepared a
quantity of wares to send, but Kabréga told them they had
better wait until Msige returned with his report, and then,
if the road were safe, they could go with their goods.
Msige brought four letters, two from Kabréga, one from
Abd-er-Rahman-bin-Abeid-bin-Hamis-el-Habeshi, a relation of -
Said-Bargash, and one from my old Uginda acquaintance,
Masudi-bin-Abeid-bin-Hamis. Kabréga's letters contained the
usual tales about the outrages the Turk had formerly com-
mitted in his country, and the cool request that I should

WELCOME GIFTS. 489

kill Kamisoa and Anfina for blocking the way between us.
Then followed great praise of myself, and an invitation to
come to him (Kabréga), backed by an appeal to our old
friendship. He also reproached me for not having written
to him about the war and our losses, and for not informing
him whether Khartim still held out or not.

Abd-er-Rahman's and Masudi's letters assured me of their
friendship, and offered to send me all that was necessary. A
number of presents accompanied the letters, most of them
from Kabréga himself: a whole piece of madapolam, a piece of
coarse American shirting (you may imagine what a singularly
valuable gift it was in these hard times, and how wonderful it
was for us here to receive cloths from Zanzibar), coloured
handkerchiefs, Uganda mats, bark cloths, salt, beans, very good
tobacco, and also coffee. Everything was at once divided among
my superior officers-in these days we must all be equal. I
hope also by sending a little linen to the officers farther north
to inspire them with some courage and willingness. The great
thing is, that by God's help a way has now been opened, and I
will take care to keep it open. I insert here the informa-
tion afterwards given me by Msige. Mwanga, the new ruler
of Uganda, has had all his father's officials killed, with the
sole exception of my old friend, the Kutikiro. According to
the statements of the Zanzibar people, four foreigners are
settled in Uganda. 'The old strained relations between the
two countries still continue, but that does not prevent men
coming and going for commercial purposes, and the Arabs send
and receive their letters and goods unmolested. No direct
road now exists between Unyoro and Karagwa, for it has been
closed by Chief Ntali, of Nkole. - Abd-er-Rahman, the mer-
chant, is getting ready to return to Zanzibar with his ivory.
Msige's men have, however, brought some cloths privately,
and so an active trade has sprung up here. 'Ten medie
(£1, 15s.) are paid for eight ells of madapolam ; there was quite
a struggle for coffee. Of course, I sent news to Dr. Junker
at once, and was almost obliged to admit that he had better
decide on travelling southwards. I have also written two
letters, one of which I am sending to Kabréga, the other to
the Arabs, with a request that they may be forwarded to the

490 LETTERS TO DER. SCHWEINFEURTIH,

missionaries in Uginda-if only one reaches them it will suffice.
Each of these packets contains two identical letters in English
and French, in which I request that the Consuls-General in
Zanzibar, and through their mediation the Egyptian Govern-
ment, may be informed of our situation, that messengers may
be sent to us from Uginda, and that they may bring a few old
newspapers to inform us what has taken place in the Sudan
and Egypt since 1883.

On the 3 Ist of October the steamer came from Dufilé. The
communications with Lado and Gondokoro are still uninter-
rupted, and all the Dragomans have fled from Rejaf. The cause
of the Bari movement is now clear to me. - As long as I was
present and prevented any interference with their affairs, and
particularly any attacks on their herds, they remained compara-
tively quiet, although they were excited by the occurrences
among the Dinka at Rumbék, and afterwards by the war
against the Danagla, who, by sending emissaries with all kinds
of pretexts, tried to incite the Bari to revolt. The complete
defeat of the soldiers sent to Bor, and the desire which then
arose to imitate the Dinka by seizing arms and ammunition,
but, above all, the proceedings of the commanders of the stations
at Lado, Rejaf, and especially GondokGro, who, in spite of all
warnings, made requisitions of cattle under all sorts of pretences
-such are the causes which will lead to the loss of the whole
Bari district; for, should we be able to crush the movement
by sheer force, the gain would not compensate for the expendi-
ture of ammunition, which is now so indispensable, or for the
irreparable loss of men. - Owing to the scarcity of corn in the
Bari district, and the impossibility of sending it from the south,
the stations would fall from starvation, and I am therefore
inclined to make arrangements for the evacuation of Lado and
Gondok6ro, to collect the men together in Rejéf, and gradually
retire on Dufilé. If we collect together, it is perhaps possible,
with good management and the ammunition we have in hand,
to maintain our position for another year, which may be long
enough to send letters and men to Egypt and receive an
answer. - But will Messicurs les Officiers obey orders?

On November 1, I sent Kabréga's men in a steamboat to
Kibiro, on the lake, with some presents and the above-mentioned

DUFILE ASSAULTED. 491

letters, as also a few presents for the Arabs. Everything now
depends on Kabréga proving compliant. But if all means fail,
and he too refuses his assistance, it will still be possible to send
150 men through Mrili to Uganda, though force may have to
be used. Kamisoa, Rionga's son, has sent men to me, but
they maintain that it is impossible for them to send letters
direct to Uganda. Perhaps here too gentle pressure will be
efficacious. I have sent the men back with a great show of
anger and without presents, and they promised to do their
utmost.

So much for the state of things up to the present time. I
have long kept up hope, but it now seems quite certain that
we must expect absolutely nothing from the north. Therefore
we shall try the south. 'Till now I have succeeded in keeping
my handful of men together. Who can guess what the future
will bring ?

December 3, 1885.

The steamer, which arrived to-day, brings the news that
Lado is not yet relieved. - Rejaf has been attacked by a large
number of Bari and Dinka, but they have been repulsed with
a loss of about 500 killed and a large number of wounded.
In a later assault, also, the Negroes lost a good many men.
Rejaf is well fortified and provisioned, but all these fights avail
nothing. I have therefore sent reinforcements once more, and
repeated my orders for the people to retire. I have no news
of any kind from Kabréga.

January 2, 1886.

To begin with, I wish you a happy New Year, Will it
bring us luck also? Let me give a résumé of the events of
the last month, if I may call them such. On December 10
news reached me that Dr. Junker had arrived in Fagango with
the porters I sent from here, and early on the 1 1th I steamed
up-stream in the Khedive to fetch him. In the evening we
were together in Wadelai. Two days later, the other steamer
brought news from Dufilé that the troops in Rejif had been
successful in their operations against the Bari, and had taken
a number of cattle. The reinforcements sent from here had

492 LETTERS TO Dr. SCHWEINXFURTH.

arrived, and preparations were being made to relieve Lado.
At last, on the 18th, the longed-for news came that Kabréga's
men were on the way. A letter from Kabréga informed me
that their departure had been delayed because the Arabs had
no wares; he had not, however, granted the Zanzibar men
permission to come here. On the 23d the men arrived, and
with them seven boys whom Kabréga had sent to learn to
read and write Arabic, and a chief, who was to remain here
" to manage the speedy despatch of letters," 4.¢., to keep a watch
on us all, and to inform Kabréga of all occurrences, and send
him news as quickly as possible. Kabréga writes that my
presents had arrived, and he also sends some to me, begging
my acceptance of them ; then follows a very respectable list of
articles which he wishes to be despatched to him. I quote some
of these demands for your edification : ammunition for his
revolvers, a couple of asses, a thousand sheets of paper, an
Arabic book, boots, shoes, illustrated papers, a trumpet, a drum,
medicines, a parasol, a screw-driver, files, needles, buttons, &e.
He sends a curious request for me to teach the seven young-
sters he has sent to read and write industriously (the language
of the Nassara),"* and not to let them play. In a second letter
he repeats his invitation to me, and says that the Arabs had
sent to Uginda for goods: he sends what was in store. " I
have sent your letters, not to the Nassara (probably the Eng-
lish in Uganda are meant), but to Zanzibar. I have also heard
that English and Americans have arrived in Usukuma, and,
if you come to me, you will hear all with your own ears,
whether it be good or bad." If Kabréga has really sent my
letters direct to Zanzibar by the Arabs, I am not exactly
pleased, but there will always be guid pro quos till Junker
makes up his mind to go to Uginda. Kabréga's men say
that a steamer brought by Europeans has been attacked by the
Waganda in the north of the Victoria Lake, and after the
loss of a European, has steamed off to the south. Probably
it is all a myth. It is a fortunate thing that I received a
quantity of cloths at Christmas. All got a share of them,
heathens and Christians, so that we look quite respectable

* The language of the Christians.

A MISSION TO KABREGA 493

again. I shall now begin to give ivory in exchange for cloths
for my men.

Junker has decided to go to Kabréga, and I hope he will
proceed from there to Ug:inda as soon as possible. I am
sending our apothecary, Vita Hassan, a brave young fellow, as
representative of the Government. He is first of all to take
up his abode with Kabréga, and I have given him full instruc-
tions I gave a packet to Junker for the English Consul-
General in Zanzibar, containing, besides official letters, a
couple of lines for you. This morning (January 2) the
steamer KAedive has taken the whole party to the lake, and
Junker and Vita are to disembark at Kibiro, whence they can
reach Kabréga in two days' march. Well, we will call down
upon them the old blessing, Q.D.B.V. Our chief aim now
is to obtain news through the missionaries in Ugdnda, even
though it may be old. My men's confidence in me is doubled
since they have seen the cloths. Now for a newspaper, and I
will hold my ground for two years more. But Junker must go
to Uganda for it, and I still do not know whether he will go.

WaAprrat, February 20, 1886.

At last it seems as if a beam of hope were going to burst
upon us. But let me begin at the beginning. After his
departure, Junker wrote me a few lines from Kibiro, to say
that he had arrived safely, and was waiting for porters to go to
Kabréga. I received several contradictory reports from Lado.
I was informed that a strong detachment of Negroes (Dinka
[Elyab, Bor, Agar], Bari, Nyambara, Fajelu, Mindari) were
encamped behind Jebel Lado, with the intention of attack-
ing Lado and Rejaf. Then a female slave, who had been
captured by the Negroes in Ber, ran away from them and
came to Ladd. She stated that she had gone in a boat
with her master from Bor to Fashoda, where she saw some
Shiluk quartered in the town. They had only burnt the
mudirié (Government offices). The river at Fashoda was
open. Soldiers and Danagla were stationed in Kawa, and
had made raids against the Shiluk. She had heard nothing of
the Faki (Mahdi). Next came the news that these Negroes

494 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTH.

had retired, and that a detachment of marauders which
had remained behind had been defeated, and some of their
rifles taken. At last, on February 14, some messengers came
from Kabréga with long letters from Junker and Vita. And
now listen! One of the servants of the Zanzibar merchants
came into Vita's hut towards evening on February 4, with one
of Kabréga's men, and, when the latter was not looking, he threw
down two notes before Vita, and then went off with his com-
panion. - Vita took up the notes, and found that one of them
was directed to himself in Arabic, and the other addressed in -
French, " A Monsieur le Voyageur dans cette ville." This he
immediately handed to Junker ; and what were the contents ?
A certain Mohammed Biri, an Egyptian, " ancien interprete de
P Association Internationale pour exploration de UAfrique," an-
nounced that he had arrived from Uganda the evening before
disguised as a trader, and that he had news for us all from
Egypt and the coast. He would be able to visit the gentle-
men and talk with them in a day or two. Dr. Fischer had
come as far as Usukuma (compare the news sent me by
Kabréga given above), but the King of Uganda had refused
to let him pass through his territory, and so he had gone to
Manyuema. - You may imagine Junker's anxiety when he read
the letter. _ He would no doubt have liked to send me further
details, but Kabréga sent off his men here the next morning.
So there is nothing for it but to wait patiently. Junker had
written on January 19 to Mr. Mackay in Uganda, asking for
porters; from there too an answer may have arrived. I sent
off an officer to Junker and Vita early on the 18th, under pre-
tence of sending ivory to Vita for the purchase of cloths, and
I am expecting the steamer to return from the lake to-day or
to-morrow. I wrote to Kabréga, begging him not to detain
the officer, and so we shall probably know how we stand in
about fifteen days. At any rate, there is a very good prospect
of at least getting our letters forwarded to you. Another mes-
senger from Lado came on the 16th; this time too it was
a Negro female slave who had escaped. According to her,
the Negroes had started off hurriedly from Jebel Lado be-
cause a man had brought news that troops and Danagla had
come up from the Bahr-el-Ghazal by steamer, and had laid waste

A DESPATCH FROM NUEAR PASHA. 493

the whole country as far as This news was confirmed by
four Agar men, who arrived some days later, and in conse-
quence of it the Negroes had dispersed. Moreover, the famous
Dinka chief, Kojur Dentonj, had fallen in the last fight before
Lado. I do not feel quite comfortable about these reports-if
they are anything more than mere Negro gossip. After recent
events, it is not likely that the Government would employ
Danagla as well as their own troops. Is it not more likely
that this is a new expedition of Danagla from Dem Soliman or
even Kordofan, among whom there would probably be large
numbers of deserters and prisoners from the Bahr-el-Ghazal
and Kordofan ?

WaprtaI, March 3, 1886.

On the afternoon of February 26, the sergeant-major,
whom I had sent with Junker and Vita to Kabrégs, ap-
peared quite unexpectedly, and laid down before me a large
packet of letters. - Besides letters from Dr. Junker to me
explaining everything in detail, there was an official despatch
from Cairo, signed Nubar, a letter of Sir John Kirk's, forwarded
to me by my agent, and copies of letters from Mr. Mackay,
Mr. Ashe, and M. Lourdel-all of them in Uginds-to Dr.
Junker. - Mr. Mackay had also kindly sent to Dr. Junker two
packets of Reuter's telegrams extending over the year 1884,
and up to November 2, 1885. The Egyptian despatch,
written in French, informs me that the Government is unable
to assist us, for the Sudan is to be given up, gives me
carte blanche to take any measures I please, should I decide to
leave the country, and, further, authorises me to draw on the
English Consul-General in Zanzibar. It is a cool business
despatch, in the fullest sense of the word, not acknowledging
by a single word the cares I have borne for three years, my
fights with Danagla and Negroes, my hunger and nakedness,
nor giving me a word of encouragement in the superhuman
task of leading home the soldiers, which now lies before me.
However, I am accustomed to this sort of thing. In the years
1878-80, during which the river was blocked for twenty-
two months, I held the country and people together, and
showed for the first time that we could maintain ourselves by

496 LETTERS TO DR. SCHWEINRURTH.

our own strength without any supplies from Khartum, and
not only did I spare the Government expense at this time,
but also proved practically that the province could, under our
honest administration, yield a surplus, after providing for its
own expenses. I began to plant rice and sugar, to set in
order the administration, and to extend the boundaries of the
province. Yet who has given me even a good word ?
la-dessus ! - The late Sirdar Ekrem Omar Pasha once said to
me that in the East one must have powerful patrons, plenty
of money, or a pretty wife, in order to obtain acknowledgment
of one's services. Can he have been right ?

Sir John Kirk has written me a very kind letter, and I am
indeed deeply grateful to him. He has moved heaven and
earth to assist me, has induced the Sultan of Zanzibar to write
letters to the King of Uginda and the Arab merchants, com-
mending me to their care, and has certainly done for me more
than his duty demanded, As to the letters from the mission-
aries to Junker, I have only to say that they were private
letters: there was a note for me on the margin of Kirk's
letter, telling me not to retreat hastily, and that they would
try to write to me. You can eagily conceive with what
interest I ran over the despatches, if you call to mind that
the last news from Europe-in a letter from Dr. Hartlaub-
reached me in the beginning of January, and the last from
Khartim in the beginning of February 1883, that is, exactly
three years ago. So now I had the whole of the sad drama before
me, which ended in Gordon's death, the retreat of the English,
and the loss of the Sudan, and it came back to my mind most
vividly how the editor of the Times had remarked in a note to
a communication from me that I took too gloomy a view of
the situation; for I had warned the English not to think too.
lightly of the state of affairs in the Budan, and not -to let
themselves be deceived by an illusory religious movement when
very different objects were really aimed at. Poor Gordon! I
see in the despatch that he was killed by a volley on the way
to the Austrian Consulate; and so Hansal also-the brave
Hansal-is probably numbered among the victims of these
unfortunate events. Besides the occurrences in the Sudan, I
find allusions to colonies started by the Germans in the west

 

UNTRUSTWORTHY OFFICERS. 497

and east of Africa, the Pacific Ocean, and elsewhere. Reading
these short and meagre telegraphic notes really makes one
nervous; the statements are so abrupt that it is vain to search
for the connexion between all the events. Excuse these long
digressions, which will certainly not interest you. I do not as
a rule fill my letters with reflections and personal opinions, but
I may be pardoned this time in consideration of my exceptional
position. - And exceptionally brilliant it is!

In Egypt and elsewhere they have certainly no notion of
the difficulties of my situation. They simply suggest to me
the way to Zanzibar, just as they would a walk to Shubra.
You will have perceived from the information contained in the
foregoing leaves that I cannot depend with any certainty on
my own officers. The greater part of my men, especially the
officers, have no desire to leave this country. I have repeatedly
drawn the attention of the Government in Khartim to the fact
that it is absolutely necessary to change the officers here every
second year, and also the men, in part at any rate, lest in
troublous times our movements should be impeded by innumer-
able obstacles. I have not even received an answer. The
greater part of our soldiers, coming, as they do, from our own
districts (Makraka, Dinka, &c.), and having never seen Egypt,
naturally prefer to remain here and live as their fathers did, while
the Negro soldier sent hither from Egypt, whether he be an
officer or a private soldier, has forgotten in the lapse of years
what strict discipline means, and, further, has adapted himself
to the country to such a degree that it has quite taken the
place of his native land. Each has his family, often a very
large one, if all its dependents be counted, and each has his
couple of goats or cows. Every one knows that the journey is
long and the toils great, that many days of hunger and hard-
ship lie before him, and that when he arrives in Egypt the
loose bonds of discipline will be tightened again, that he must
then say farewell to the mrisa jug, and that the " T"@'ali ya
valad" (Come, O boy) and "Ruh ya salad" (Go, O boyy must
come to an end. . . . Then consider how little attention has
been shown to our soldiers from Khartim, how they have
been left without supplies, without clothing, without pay,-but
enough, you can now understand why the men do not wish

2 I

498 LETIERS TO DR SCHWEINEURTH.

to move. - Besides, it is quite impossible to make a Sudanese
understand why the Government has given up the Sudan, and
he refuses in so many words to believe that a horde of Danagla
is able to crush a well-trained army. - Even now it is believed
here that the news of General Hicks's defeat in Kordofan is a
fiction. _ All my efforts during the last twelve months to con-
centrate the men in the south, have had no other result hitherto
than to draw from the first battalion, stationed in Lado and
the neighbourhood, or at any rate from the officers, a cate-
gorical declaration that they would not give up Lado, &e.
Now, if I send copies of the letter from Egypt, written in
French too (an error much to be regretted-it should have
been written in Arabic), it will at least be considered a fabri-
cation, that is, a device of my own, and will not be obeyed.
But something worse may happen, for when the people are
once convinced of the impotence of the Government, universal
anarchy may ensue, and the destruction of all the white men
may be the first result. I do not yet see how I am to get out
of this dilemma. God help me! Of course I wrote at once
to Nubar Pasha, promising to do my utmost, but could not
give the foregoing details, as the letter might be opened in
Uganda or elsewhere. The reason which induces me to com-
municate them to you is that, should we come to grief, you
at any rate will know the state of affairs, and will be able to
explain it to the authorities.

By a most unfortunate coincidence, war has just at this
moment broken out between Uganda and Unyoro; as far as I
can make out, it is the consequence of endless misunderstand-
ings. The English missionaries in Uginda seem also to have
lost credit to some extent. I have written to the king, and to
my old friends, the Katikiro and the Arab, Hamis-bin-Holfan,
begging them to send me some men from there. I hope for
good results. I lay great weight on the fact that in all my
dealings with Kabréga I have found him trustworthy and
obliging.

Dr. Junker writes to me that he forwarded his letters from
Kabréga to Uginda on February 12, and that he has also
written to you. I gave him a small packet of letters for the
English Consul-General at Zanzibar, in which a couple of lines

I
I

THE WAR BETWEEN UNYORO AND UGANDA. | 499

were enclosed for you. I hope he has sent it on. Should you
find time amidst your numerous occupations and engagements
to send me a few words, I shall really be deeply grateful to
you. I shall, of course, send these lines on the first oppor-
tunity to Uganda, but will they ever reach you? The letter
from Egypt is dated May 27, and Sir John Kirk's, July 18,
1885.

Added to my misgivings about my own men, who may place
all kinds of difficulties in my way (not from ill-will, but from
unfathomable and unconquerable stupidity), I have a forebod-
ing that one of these fine days the Danagla will suddenly come
down upon us in steamers, or that perhaps the statement of a
girl in Ladd, quoted above, may be true, namely, that soldiers
and Danagla have reached Aysik. It is certain that the latter
will not leave us in peace, and equally certain that they will
occupy these districts again as soon as possible. They have
men and weapons enough now, and the resistance of the
Negroes will soon be broken down if a thousand or two of
such scoundrels appear well armed. Of course it would be
best to expedite our retreat, but how am I to set about it ?
Even Junker advises me not to be in a hurry.

April 5, 1886.

The war in Unyoro has turned out to be more serious than
we expected, and so Kabréga has put before Dr. Junker the
alternatives of retiring with him, or starting off for Uganda,
where indeed he wanted to go. He chose the journey to
Uganda, and left Kabréga on February 2, taking a route
more to the south than the ordinary one, in order to avoid the
Waginda army. My agent has retired to the lake, where he
is waiting till the final retreat of the Wagianda permits him to
join Kabréga again. The latter is said to have been hard
pressed by the Waginda, but has suffered no harm at present.
I have, however, received no direct information from him for
some time, and no reliance can be placed on the very contra-
dictory reports spread about by the Negroes. In my opinion,
it would be a good thing for us all if the arrogant Waginda
were thoroughly humbled for once. Mwiunga seems to rival
in capriciousness his father, Mtésa.

500 LETYIERS TO DR. SCHWEINFURTEH,

The situation in this country is still a very gloomy one.
As I said before, the greater part of our people do not wish
to retire from here. I expect a definite answer from Lado by
the middle of this month, and shall then be able to consider
how I am to act. If I can only get the people to let the
Egyptians retire, I am quite ready to remain myself.

April 20, 1886.

The steamer I expected has arrived, but has brought only
unwelcome news. I have no information from the officers
whom I sent to Ladd to explain the situation to the men there.
But a private letter from an Egyptian official has reached
me, containing, among other things, the following :-" The
report that several officers are on their way here to make
preparations for a movement to the south has caused great
excitement, and the men have agreed among themselves
not to go south, for, they say, the way to the seat of our
Government does not run southwards, but through Lado to
Khartim, and they would rather return to their homes than
go to the south. But if they are forced to do so, they will
seize all the arms and ammunition, kill any one who tries
to stop them, and finally make their way homewards. All
the men from here to Widelai are unanimous, and should you
still insist on the march to the south, I fear that not one of us
will escape, neither you nor we. I beg you therefore to give
up this plan, and instead to send boats to Khartim to procure
help from there. No one believes the news which comes from
the south, but the men say, 'We had better remain here than
let ourselves be sold to Kabréga;' and, had not the Major,
Rihan Aga, held them in check, they might have rushed
off to the south long ago, carried out their designs there, and
then have gone to their homes through Widelai." To explain
this, I must tell you that about a month ago all the older
corporals, &c., in Ladd, almost all of them men from Bornu,
Adamawa, &e., conspired to kill all the officers, Sudanese, and
others in the place, and establish a sort of free state. But an
Egyptian officer heard of the plot, and informed his superiors of
it, and the Major put the ringleaders in irons, releasing them,

A VISITATION OF SMALLPOX. 5otT

however, without punishment a few days later-an act of
clemency unsuited to these times. - In Dufilé, also, a sergeant,
major shot at his officer, but fortunately missed him.

All this may give you some little idea of the difficulties we
have to contend with here. I am hourly expecting to hear
that open rebellion has broken out in Lado, and then, of course,
I shall go there.*

Messengers have come from Kabréga. This time the
Wagianda have got a thrashing, and have therefore retreated.
Kabréga complains bitterly that all the Zanzibar men settled in
Uganda came with the Waginda to pillage his country. - I am
thinking of sending off Captain Casati to Kabréga soon to look
after letters, and then he shall take this long letter with him.
No news had come from Dr. Junker, probably because of the
war, but I am expecting men from Kabréga again within the
next few days, and then I shall probably hear from Junker
also. Smallpox has been raging among us in Widelai for the
last three months ; it is rather mild as a rule, but does not die
out. Rain is wanted, too, and the glowing heat at midday
makes even robust people dreadfully languid.

May 15, 1886.
Captain Casati sets out early to-morrow morning, and will

3)
stay with Kabréga for the present to forward letters to Uganda
and Zanzibar. Perhaps Mr. Mackay will be so good as to give
us news of what is going on in Europe. I am sending off all
my despatches this time, and I have enough faith in my good
fortune to hope that means of forwarding them will ultimately
be found. I had news indirectly from Kabréga's country yes-
terday. The war is over, and the Waginda have taken their
thrashing in silence for once. The smallpox, which is raging
there likewise, ¢.¢., in Unyoro, may also have had a depressing
effect on them. Kabréga has sent word to my agent, who is

* It may not be clear to all why Emin still remained at Widelai while he was
so anxious as to the action his men would take at Lado. He was obliged to
remain in the south to open up and maintain his communication with Kabréga, as
that ruler would only treat with Emin personally. He did subsequently return
to Lado, and withdrew the troops, but the letter explaining this journey has not
come to hand.-KR. W. F.

5o2 LETTERS TO- DR., SCHWEINFURTH,

now in Mahagi, that he may return to him. It is clear,
then, that all is quiet there, and so the Arab merchants will
soon again be passing along the roads between Ugifinda and
Unyoro. I will even try to get some small boxes of specimens
conveyed to Sir John Kirk, though most of the rare ones from
Monbuttu must remain here for the present. If those I send
arrive safely, some light and beautiful things shall follow for
you and the Leipzig people. Junker's collections are in Ladd ;
not a word has been heard of him, and I do not even know if
he has arrived safely in Uganda.

We are just as we were. - The men will not move, and the
few who are inclined to make the journey dare not speak their
minds. Moreover, the disagreement between the Sudanese
and Egyptians becomes more marked every day, and hatred of
the latter is openly expressed, only a few of them who enjoy
a fairly good reputation being spared. This is certainly not
undeserved, for the Egyptian gentlemen have always treated
the Sudanese en canaille, in spite of all my warnings, but now
the tables are turned. I endeavour to mediate as much as
possible; but can this go on long? I have made a fresh
attempt to bring the men to reason ; if this too fails, I must
resign myself to circumstances, and preserve the show of autho-
rity which I still possess as long as I can. If the worst comes
to the worst, the only thing I can do will be to put the
reins into the hands of the oldest Sudanese officer, withdraw,
if possible, to Kabréga's, and wait there until the men have
recovered their senses and will follow me-for follow me they
will sooner or later. In any case, I will let the Government
know by this post all that is going on here.

I believe, if I may give my candid opinion, that the Govern-
ment would act wisely if they paid the men and let them go
their own way, or handed them over to Said Bargash. - Every
officer and private soldier has his house full of people. You know
how they live here, and if this troop actually went to Egypt,
or even to Zanzibar, there would be no end to the outery and
scandal about slaves, &c. Besides, as I have already hinted,
strict discipline is not to be thought of with such soldiers and
officers, and therefore Egypt would gain nothing by them, but
would increase its budget to no purpose. The few old rifles

DISCONTENT OF THE SOLDIERS, 503

and other things which would be lost should really not be
considered.

But it is possible that the dispute now existing may be
settled in a very simple manner. I heard by the last post
that some soldiers, natives of have taken their rifles
and gone away, under the pretence that their rations were
not sufficient. Such examples are infectious, and as more
than half of our soldiers are natives of the same place, I
should not wonder if a large part of them follow those who
have already gone. Indeed, as a strong party among the
officers in Ladd, including some who are natives of these dis-
tricts, have long been pleading in favour of a retreat to Mak-
rakd, I should not be at all surprised to hear some day that
they had put their heads together and all marched off to
Makraka without informing me of their intention. Certainly
a struggle would then take place, for I believe that a large
number of the older corporals, who are personally attached to
me, would not follow without compulsion, and the collision
caused by this circumstance might lead to serious results.
However that may be, everything must shortly be decided,
and should I live I will not fail to send you further reports.
At present my aim is to make you acquainted with the situa-
tion, even at the risk of wearying you with all my words. So
pray excuse and pardon me for taking up your valuable time.

p. LEfiens to In. It. W. IfroRiy,

PROSPECTS OF RELIEF-SUPPRESSION OF THE SLAVE-TRADE-DISCOVERY
OF THE DUERU RIVER-FAITHFUL UNTO DEATH.

WaprEtaAt, July 22, 1886.

I am still waiting and hoping for help, and that from Eng-
land, whose philanthropic spirit will, I hope, keep her true to
her ancient traditions, notwithstanding the rise and fall of
Governments. I still believe that, whether Liberals or Con-
servatives are at the helm, the immense importance of aiding

»

$oj LETTERS TO DR. FELKIN.

us will not be lost sight of, nor the importance of crushing
the slave-trade and of keeping my people free. One or two
caravans are all that is necessary, and I believe they could easil y
reach me from the east coast direct, or from the north-east
corner of the Victoria Nyanza. 'There remains, too, the route
through Usoga and the Lingo district. _ I am of opinion, how-
ever, that a good present would smooth all difficulties there ;
and it must not be forgotten that if I knew that help was
coming to me from that direction, I could easily push forward
one or more stations towards the east, and thus stretch out a
helping hand to any caravan coming to my relief.

WADELAI, October 2, 1886.

DrEar FrIEND,-Your letter dated May 10, 1885, arrived,
together with one from Miss Felkin, dated September 25, 1885,
and I do not know how to thank you enough for still bearing
me in remembrance at a time when all my other friends
appear to have thought me dead. Your letters were the first
lines I received from Europe after three years and a half of
absolute isolation. May the Almighty reward you abundantly
for all the joy which your lines of affection gave me! . . .

How much the deaths of Gordon and of my old friend
Hansal have grieved me I need hardly tell you. What will
have become of Hansal's poor children, I wonder ? . .

We have heard a report that Dr. Fischer has arrived at the
north-east corner of the Victoria Nyanza, and that Kabréga
has sent some people to him to try and guide him to us. . . .

Now that the way to Uginda is at last open, owing to the
kindness of Mr. Mackay,* I hope that correspondence will

* Mr. A. M. Mackay went out with the first Church Missionary Society
expedition to Ugdnda in 1875. After much illness and many hardships, he
reached his destination in 1878. He has remained at his post with wonderful
tenacity until quite recently, having held his own against Moslem intrigue, the
suspicion and ill-treatment of both Mtésa and Mwinga, and the vicissitudes of the
climate. It was due to his influence and self-denying efforts that Emin Pasha
was at last enabled to enter once more into communication with Europe. He
also sent some supplies, and was the means of obtaining Mwidnga's consent for
Dr. Junker to pass through Uginda to Zanzibar, and for the caravan of goods
purchased by Dr. Junker to be sent to Emin. Emin again and again expresses

the gratitude he feels to Mr. Mackay for all the risks he ran in aiding him.-
R. W. 3.

THE SLAYERTRADE EXTINCT 5o5

be carried on with less difficulty than hitherto. What has
become of Dr. Lenz? I have heard nothing about him. Per-
haps it is because I have been temporarily obliged to abandon
the Monbuttu district. . . .

U wrote you in a former letter that I had made up my
mind to hold on here, and explained to you fully in that letter
my reasons for so doing, and my hopes and plans for the future

of this land. I repeat what I then said; I shall remain here,
and hold together as long as possible the remnants of the work
of the last ten years. If help comes to me from any side, so
much the better; if not, at least I will fall on the field where
my work has been accomplished. I am sorry to be obliged
to contradict the opinion which Stanley and Schweinfurth
have expressed, "that now the slave-dealers are overrun-
ning this country, and that the Negroes have more to suffer
than they used to have." Since the retreat of Keremallah
and the destruction of himself and of all his people on
the borders of Kordofan, everything has remained in perfect
peace, and indeed the war has in some respects done good,
for the whole of the Bahr-el-Ghazal district has been totally
freed from the slave-dealers, who, according to the above
account, were said to be following unchecked their nefarious
traffic. In the whole of the Bahr-el-Ghazal, I repeat, there is
to-day no single Khartumer remaining. It is true that a few
of Lupton's old Negro soldiers are still there, but they are
living peaceably with the natives. In my province I have only
sixty-two Danagla left, and I am quite able to prevent them
committing any excesses. The reoccupation of these districts,
which have been temporarily given up, could be carried out
with the greatest ease, and if we could only get a few caravans
sent vid Mombasa, Masai, Masala,* Wakori,t and from thence
either here or to Kabréga, it would be all that we want.
Naturally, the old Egyptian systera of plunder must never be
revived, but the natural resources of the land must be culti-
vated in a proper manner, and that too could easily be

* Masala was the farthest point reached by Thomson at the north-east corner
of the Victoria Nyanza.

+ The Wakori are a tribe through which Bishop Hannington passed. They
inhabit a district on the northern shore of the Victoria Nyanza.-R. W. F.

506 LETTERS TO DR. FELKINX.

accomplished-but who will help us? Will your merchants,
indeed, wait until it is too late? The cardinal question at
the present time is, in my opinion, not the reoccupation of
the Sudan, and money and men sacrificed for deserts and
sands, but that we should be supported, and our country pre-
vented from relapsing into barbarism and the slave-trade.
Into whosoever hands this country falls, the northern Sudan
-that is to say, Khartim, &c.-will naturally, after a time,
give in its allegiance. But 'of this. You cannot
think of the almost childish joy with which my people and I
received the caravan from Uganda. At the same time, we
are certainly proud of the way in which we have been able to
help ourselves whilst cut off from all external supplies. I send
you a sample of the beautiful pocket-handkerchiefs we have
made from cotton that we planted and spun ourselves. I
hope, too, you.will like the shoes. Instead of sugar we use
honey ; instead of coffee, the seeds of a species of Hibis-
cus; instead of stearine, candles made of wax ; soap has been
made from tallow and the ashes of various trees. With meat,
a few vegetables and oil procured from the semsem seed have
prevented us from starving. - The tobacco we are growing now
is very good. And then, think of the Temperance Question.
If Sir Wilfrid Lawson could only see us, he would take the
greatest pleasure in most of us. A hard time, truly, we have
had, and yet the hard time has been of some good, for the
old proverb, " Necessity is the mother of invention," has
proved itself to be true even in our case. I am, notwithstand-
ing, very thankful to God that the way to Uginda does seem
to be rather more open; and it is to be hoped that, with
plenty of ivory, and with the help of Mr. Mackay's friendly
services, I may be able to get enough cloth, &c., to clothe the
wives and children of my poor people respectably. They have
stuck bravely to me, and deserve, indeed, the best government
and help which could possibly be given them. .

And now I must end. - All my people send you their hearty
greetings. They remember you everywhere with affection.

DISCOVERY OF THE DUERUV. yoy

WApELAI, October 26, 1886.

Dear FrtEnD,-Before Dr. Junker left Uginda for the coast,
he collected a caravan, after immense difficulty, and with the
aid of Mr. Mackay of the Church Missionary Society, and
gained permission from King Mwinga to send it here. Besides
a good quantity of cloth, there were many presents from them-
selves, as well as newspapers from 1884 to 1886, a few books,
Graphics, and-what pleased me most and will prove most
valuable-a good many numbers of Nature ; so that at last
I am permitted once more to see what is taking place in
the scientific world. I see with deep sorrow that many of
my old friends have gone before me to their last rest-Marno,
Hansal, Dr. Behm, Dr. Nachtigal-all are no more. I am
now almost the last of those who knew the Sudan; most
of my friends have gone to rest, having finished their fight-
whilst I ? . In one of your former letters you ask me to
send one of my papers to be published in England, so I send
you the enclosed paper, which you can publish where you like.*
It is an account of a tour to the Albert Nyanza, which I
wrote on purpose for you. You must excuse its many faults,
but the circumstances under which it was composed will, I
hope, be sufficient explanation of its shortcomings. Rince I
wrote it, I have made two other excursions to the lake, and
have gathered a considerable amount of fresh details. I might
perhaps send at once the detailed map which I have drawn
up, but as there are several points which I should like to
clear up more fully, I will wait a while, and only give you, in
the meantime, the chief result of my work, which is the dis-
covery of a new river flowing from the Usongora mountains.
It is of considerable size, and flows into the lake at the south.
The river, which is called Kakibi by the Wasongora, and
Duéru by the Wamboga, contains a large island near its
junction with the lake. On account of numerous cataracts,
however, it is very difficult to navigate; but, on the other
hand, it pours into the lake throughout the whole year a large
volume of water. The town of Hamgurko is situated on its
banks, at a short distance from the lake, and a considerable

 

* See page 162.

508 LETTERS fO DR. FELEKIN.

quantity of salt of a superior quality is found there. - The

Kakibi or Duéru forms the boundary between the Muénge dis-
trict of Unyoro, which lies to the east, and the country of
Mboga, lying to the west. Mboga is inhabited by a people
speaking a language which appears to be only a dialect of the
Kinyoro. . To the west-north-west and north, Mboga is bounded
by Leundi, a country which lies behind the mountains border-
ing on the Albert Lake. ~ To the west I found a country
inhabited by tribes which I take to be Iddio (A-Zande). I was
told there was a large river to the south-west, on the banks of
which there is a colony of Akka-called Balia by the Wanyoro.
They, call themselves, however, in their own language, Betwa.
I could give you a considerable amount of information con-
cerning the light-coloured Wahuma from Mriali, and the Toru
mountains, and about the Wakonjo, &c., but, for the present,
what I have said must suffice. As soon as I have another
opportunity, I will send you full particulars on these subjects.

The zoological, and especially the zoo-geographical, results
which I have obtained during the last few months will, I hope,
be of considerable importance. I am sorry, however, that I
have not the necessary text-books to help me to work out in
detail all I have found.

By the same post I send to Professor Ratzel two papers for
publication, and I have already sent to Gotha a complete map
of my last Monbuttu journey, which will go to complete
some of Junker's work. I have sent by the same opportunity
one or two cases of preparations to England.*

W&perar, April 17, 1887.

To-morrow morning I am sending a courier to Unyoro with
letters for Mr. Mackay, and I take the opportunity of sending
you a few lines. On the oth of this month Mr. Mackay had
the goodness to send me some English newspapers, from which
I learn that it has been proposed to send us help. You can
imagine yourself better than I can tell you that the heartfelt
sympathy which has been expressed for me and my people in
England, and the many friends we appear to have made, have

* These have been received at the British Museum.

A HOPEFUL FUTURE. 509
given me extreme pleasure, and have richly repaid me for many
of the sorrows and hardships I have undergone. I could never
have believed that I, a stranger, and my poor people, could
haye received such generous thoughts, and that any one would
be ready to make such sacrifices for us. If, however, the people
in Great Britain think that as soon as Stanley or Thomson
comes I shall return with them, they greatly err. I have passed
twelve years of my life here, and would it be right of me to
desert my post as soon as the opportunity for escape presented
itself? I shall remain with my people until I see perfectly
clearly that both their future and the future of our country is
safe.

The work that Gordon paid for with his blood, I will strive
to carry on, if not with his energy and genius, still according
to his intentions and in his spirit. When my lamented chief
placed the government of this country in my hands, he wrote
to me :-" I appoint you for civilisation and progress' sake." I
have done my best to justify the trust he had in me, and that
I have to some extent been successful and have won the confi-
dence of the natives is proved by the fact that I and my hand-
ful of people have held our own up to the present day in the
midst of hundreds and thousands of natives. I remain here
the last and only representative of Gordon's staff. It therefore
falls to me, and is my bounden duty, to follow up the road
he showed us. Sooner or later a bright future must dawn for
these countries; sooner or later these people will be drawn
into the circle of the ever-advancing civilised world, For
twelve long years I have striven and toiled, and sown the
seeds for future harvest-laid the foundation-stones for future
buildings. Shall I now give up the work because a way may
soon open to the coast? - Never!

If England wishes really to help us, she must try, in the
first place, to conclude some treaty with Uganda and Unyoro,
by which the condition of those countries may be improved
both morally and politically. A safe road to the coast must
be opened up, and one which shall not be at the mercy of the
moods of childish kings or disreputable Arabs. - This is all we
want, and it is the only thing necessary to permit of the steady
development of these countries, If we possessed it, we could

510 LETTERS TO DR. FELKIN.

look the future hopefully in the face. May the near future
bring the realisation of these certainly modest wishes, and may
we be permitted, after all the trials which God has seen fit to
bring us through, to see a time of peace and prosperity in
Central Africa. You can imagine with what anxiety I look
for the dénouement of things, and how I count the days which
must still pass before I receive definite news. I thank God
that I am still able to work and to keep my people well in
hand. As long as I have plenty to occupy me, I seem to
forget all trials, of which we have, unfortunately, only too many.
I had only just returned here from Rejaf, when, owing to the
stupidity of the Negroes living near this station in burning
the grass during a gale of wind, the flames spread, and Wadelai
was burned to the ground. With the help of the neighbouring
Negro chiefs, I have been able to rebuild the station, which is
now much handsomer than before. It was only by tremendous
exertions that we were able to save our arms and ammunition,
but all else became a booty to the flames. It is true that we
had not much to lose, but what little we had was very precious,
and its loss all the more grievous.

Things go on with us in the same way as before. We
sow, we reap, we spin, and live day after day as usual; but
February was an unlucky month, for in nearly every station fires
broke out. This was due to the exceptionally strong winds in
that month, and to the carelessness of the natives in burning
the grass. We have docked our steamers, and renewed them
as much as possible; and, besides this, we have built several
boats, so you see we have plenty to do. I have been obliged
to evacuate Ladd, as it was impossible for me to supply the
garrison there with corn; but, as a set-off to the loss of this
station, I have been able to reoccupy the district of Makrakd4.
At present, therefore, we occupy the whole of my former
stations in Makraki: Rejif, Bedén, Kiri, Muggi, Laboré,
Khor Ayu, Dufilé, Fatiko, Fadibék, Widelai, Songa, and Ma-
hagi, nearly all the stations which were originally entrusted to
me by General Gordon; and I intend and expect to keep them
all. I should like here again to mention that if a relief ex-
pedition comes to us, I will on no account leave my people.
We have passed through troublous times together, and I

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I

FAITHEUL UXTO DEATH.

consider it would be a shameful act on my part were I to
desert them. They are, notwithstanding all their hard-
ships, brave and good, with the exception of the Egyptians.
We have known each other many years, and I do not think it
would be easy at present for a stranger to take up my work
and to win at once the confidence of the people. It is there-
fore out of the question for me to leave, so I shall remain.
All we would ask England to do, is to bring about a better
understanding with Uganda, and to provide us with a free and
safe way to the coast. This is all we want. Evacuate our
territory ? - Certainly not!

Dr. EMIN-BEY.

APBEENDIX.

e

MAP OF THE EQUATORIAL PROVINCE

Tuts map is merely a sketch intended to illustrate the record of
Dr. Emin's travels. The whole of the region to the west of the
Nile is subject to very considerable changes. The routes, so care-
fully laid down by Dr. Schweinfurth, Dr. Junker, and a few other
explorers, are dependent upon the Meshra-er-Rek and Wandi being
placed correctly upon the map, but neither the latitudes, still less the
longitudes, of these places have hitherto been satisfactorily deter-
mined. Lupton Bey's latitudes in the northern portion of the
Bahr-el-Ghazal have established the general accuracy of Dr. Schwein-
furth's itineraries, but they help us little towards placing the upper
Welle-Makua in its correct position. It is to be hoped that Mr.
Stanley's wellfound expedition will furnish a few trustworthy
positions, which will enable us to combine the vast mass of existing
materials in a satisfactory manner.

The linguistic colouring of the map is based upon the vocabularies
and other information furnished by Dr. Schweinfurth, Colonel Long,
Heuglin, Marno, Dr. Felkin, Beltrame, Mitterutzner, Wakefield,
and Emin Pasha. Very much remains to be done before our know-
ledge can be called satisfactory, especially as regards the many

aboriginal tribes who have been subjected by the invading Zandé
_ and Monbuttu. - Dr. Junker will no doubt be able to clear up many
doubtful points. In the meantime, two great facts stand out very
distinctly, viz., the extension of the Dinka and their kin from the
eastern shore of the Victoria Nyanza to the White Nile, and the
proximity of tribes allied to the Masai (Wakuavi) to the upper
Nile. 'That the Latiika, for instance, are the kinsmen of the
Wakuavi is clearly proved by Emin Pasha's vocabularies. . The
Galla, too, have found a place upon our map; and it is just possible
that their neighbours, the Girata, are Woratta or Dauro, whom
d'Abbadie classes together with the Gebbero (Sidama) and Agau as

APPENDIX, y3

Hamites. The origin of the Wahuma is a problem still awaiting
solution.

The inset map is intended to show the districts of the Equatorial
Province as they existed about 1882. In the time of CGessi Pasha,
the so-called Equatorial Provinces of Egypt included three distinct
provinces, each governed by a mudir, viz., Bahr-el-Ghazal, under
Gessi Pasha ; Rol, or Rumbék, under Mula Effendi; and the Equa-
torial Province proper (Hat-el-Estiva), under Emin Effendi. When
Gessi was recalled (in 1880), the districts of Monbuttu and Makrak4
were separated from Bahr-el-Ghazal, and, together with Rol, joined
to the Equatorial Province. Lupton Bey, believed to be still a
prisoner at Khartim, was appointed Governor of Bahr-el-Ghazal.
At the time of its greatest extension, the Hat-el-Estiva included the
following districts and stations :-

DISTRICT.

Rob. . . . Ayaik (headquarters), Shambé, Bull with Les
(Mvolo), Rumbék with Gok-el-Hassan, and
dependencies.

Bor . . . Bor and dependencies.

. . . Lado (headquarters), Amadi with Sayadin, Gon-
dokoro, Rejaf, Bedén, with dependencies.

Kirt . ., . Laboré (headquarters), Kiri, Muggi, Khor Ayu.

DuFILE . . Dufilé (headquarters), Fatiké, Wiadelai, Mahagi,
and Songa (occupied 1887).

FavyEra . . Foda (headquarters), Fauvera, and dependencies.

FaDIBEK . . Fajulli (headquarters), Farajok, Fadibék, Fachér,
Farchel, Lobbor, and dependencies.

Latéra . . T&rangole (headquarters), Obbo, Kuron, Maran-
gole, and dependencies.

Marraxr£ . Wandi (headquarters), Kabayendi, Kudurms,
Ombamba, Gosa, Mundi, Logo, Tambira,
Kalika (Kibi), Korobék, and dependencies.

MoxsBurtu . Mbaga (headquarters), Gango, Kubi, Tingazi,

(Gurguru). Gadda (Bellima), Dongu, and dependencies.

In consequence of the revolt of the Dinka and the advent of
emissaries of the Mahdi, Dr. Emin was compelled to abandon the
districts of Rol and Makrak&, and to withdraw from some of the
outlying stations. - Recently, however, some of the ground lost has
been recovered, and in April 1887 the whole of Makrak& had been
Ireoccupied, and the following stations were still held, viz., Rejaf

i and Bedén in the district of Lado; Kiri, Muggi, Laboré, and Khor
| 2 K

514 APPENDIX.

Ayu in the district of Kiri; Dufilé, Fatiko, Wiadelai, Mahagi, and
Songa in the district of Dufilé ; and Fadibék.

Emin Pasha's original maps have been published in " Peter-
mann's Mitteilungen," and nearly all the names given in this
volume will be found on sheets 1, z, 7, and 8 of my Map of
Eastern Equatorial Africa, published by the Royal Geographical
Society.-E. G. R.

BIOGRAPHICAL.

Murisa.-Mtésa was first heard of in Europe from Speke and Grant,
who visited Uganda in 1862. He professed to trace back his descent
to Kintu (or Ham), the founder of the dynasty. When I visited
him in 1879 he was about forty-five years of age, a splendid man,
some six feet high, well formed and strongly built. He had an oval
face, and his features were well cut. He had large mild eyes, but if
roused by anger or mirth they were lit up by a dangerous fire. He
had lost the pure Mhuma features through admixture of Negro
blood, but still retained sufficient characteristics of that tribe to:
prevent all doubt as to his origin. All his movements were very
graceful ; his hands were slender, well-formed, and supple; he was
generally dressed in a simple white Arab kuftan. .It is somewhat
difficult to describe his character; he was intensely proud, very
egotistical, and until near the end of his life he thought himself
to be the greatest king on earth. In his youth, and in fact until
1878, there is no doubt that he was very cruel, but an illness from
which he suffered certainly softened him. His chiefs often said to
me, " Ah, if Mtésa were well, there would be plenty of executions."
It has been said that he was extremely changeable and fickle, and to
superficial observers he was so; that is to say, as far as his inter-
course with Europeans went. If, however, one looks a little deeper
into his character, one finds that his apparent vacillation was over-
ruled by a fixed idea, which was to benefit his people, increase his
own importance, and to get as much as possible out of the strangers
who visited his court. This explains his being one day a friend to -
the Arabs, on another to the Protestants, and on a third to the
Catholics. A new-comer, especially if he had a large caravan, was -
always the favourite of the hour. It is not difficult for any one to -
enter Uganda, but to get away again is no easy task, unless one is |
going for a fresh supply of goods. Mtésa liked Europeans and |
Arabs to be present at his court; it gave him prestige, and he also .

a

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APPENDIX, 513

wished his people to learn as much as they could from the white
men, for he well knew and appreciated their superior knowledge.
In manner he was courteous and gentlemanly, and he could order
any one off to execution with a smile on his countenance. His mental
capacity was of a very high order. He was shrewd and intelligent ;
he could read and write Arabic, and could speak several native
languages. - He had a splendid memory, and enjoyed a good argu-
ment very keenly. If he could only get Protestants, Catholics, and
Arabs to join in a discussion before him, he was in his element, and
although apparently siding with one or other, who might happen to be
at the time in his especial favour, he took good care to maintain his
own ground, and I do not believe that he ever really gave up the
least bit of his belief in his old Pagan ideas. While too shrewd and
intelligent to believe in the grosser superstitions which find credit
among his people, he was yet so superstitious that if he dreamt of
any of the gods of his country he believed it to be an ill omen, and
offered human sacrifices to appease the anger of the offended deity.
Shortly after I left Uginda, he dreamt of his father, and in conse-
quence had five hundred people put to death. He also believed that
if he dreamt of any living person it was a sign that they meditated
treachery, and he condemned them forthwith to death. This supposed
power of divination is said to be hereditary in the royal race. In
concluding my remarks about Mtésa, I may say that he denied his
Wahiuima origin ; not only, however, did his features betray him, but
many of the traditions he held regarding his ancestors, especially
his descent from Ham, point conclusively to an origin in the old
Christianity of Abyssinia.

When I was in Uganda, Mtésa had two or three hundred women
always residing at his court. He did not know exactly how many
wives he had, but said that they certainly numbered seven thousand.
He had seventy sons and eighty-eight daughters. -R. W. F.

Mwaxca.-Mwanga is the present king of Uganda, having been
chosen by the three hereditary chiefs at the death of his father,
Mtésa, and it is certainly to be attributed to the influence of the
missionaries in Uginda, that the usual bloodshed which attends the
succession to the throne in Uginda did not take place. On ascending
the throne he was about sixteen years of age, and up to that time had
been a simple, harmless youth, but his high position soon turned his
head, and he became suspicious, abominably eruel, and really brutal,
He began to drink and to smoke bang, and up to the present time
his rule has been characterised by tyranny and bloodshed far sur-

£16 APPENDIX.

passing anything that happened in his father's time. Nor does he
appear to possess those good characteristics which certainly caused
his father to deserve a certain amount of respect. A number of
Christians, Protestants and Catholics, have been tortured and burnt
at the stake by his orders, and Bishop Hannington was murdered
by his command at Lubwa, on the borders of Uganda. -R. W. F.

Kanrast. -He was the first king of Unyoro with whom Euro-
peans came into contact; he was visited by Speke and Grant on
the oth of September 1862, at his residence (1° 37' 43" N. lat.),
which was situated upon a low tongue of land lying between the
Nile and Khor Kafu. His character was very mild, and he treated
Speke and Grant well, He died in 1870. - After a period, of
anarchy, in which one of his sons, Kabkamiro, was killed, he was
succeeded by Kabréga, the present king of Unyoro.-Ratzer.

KABREGA, the king of Unyoro, son of Kamrasgi. He received a
very bad character from Sir Samuel Baker, who visited him in
1877. As will be seen from the text, Emin Pasha has a better
opinion of him, and, indeed, it would appear that he inherits a
milder temperament than the Wagianda rulers, for Speke contrasted.
Mtésa's cruelty with Kamrasi's mildness, and at the present time
Emin experiences, on the one side, the brutality of Mwanga, Mtésa's
son and heir, and the mild and friendly treatment of Kabréga. The
Wanyoro are of opinion that they are descended from a more noble -
race than the Waginda.-RarzEL. *

PTHNOGRAPHICAL.

ForEtaxErs in UcA4xpa.-Strangers travelling through the coun-
try, accompanied by an escort from the king, are always sure of
obtaining good accommodation, as the escort goes to the best hut
in the village, turns the inhabitants out, and takes possession of
it for the time being. The people are, however, hospitable, and en-
deavour to make one as comfortable as cireumstances will permit.
Foreigners are not permitted to enter Ugénda without permission
from the king ; they are compelled to halt at the first village until it
is granted. One or two of the king's pages, bearing a drum and flag
as marks of authority, are usually sent with a requisite number of
porters to transport the stranger and his goods to the capital ; but
it is not etiquette for this to be done rapidly, and circuitous routes
are always chosen, the halts made being frequent and tantalising.
The traveller is also constantly annoyed by the constant disputes

APPENDIX, 517

between his escort and the villagers, which sometimes end in blows,
and it requires great tact on his part to keep the peace. The king's
pages are overbearing, and treat the villagers abominably, requir-
ing them to perform impossibilities, and beating them if they refuse.
As a rule, if the villagers hear that the king's guests are coming,
they leave their huts, preferring to lose their goods rather than be
maltreated by the king's pages. On one occasion, when travelling
with a very small escort, I nearly lost my life through their plunder-
ing propensities. The drummer, who marches at the head of the
caravan, receives the head of any cow that may be killed for food on
the march as a perquisite.-R. W. F.

Warcdara (Wawitu) -The Wahiuma inhabit scattered villages
throughout the whole of Uganda. They number between 40,000
and 50,000. They are probably descended from the original in-
habitants of Abyssinia, and there is no reasonable doubt but that the
ancestors of the reigning families in Uganda and Unyéro were
Wahiuima. Known by the name of Wahiuima, Watusi, and Wawitu,
they are found throughout the east of Africa from 2° N. to 7° 8.
lat, They are tall, of pure blood, with good-looking oval faces, thin
lips, and straight noses. The women are particularly beautiful, and
the Wagianda like to have them as wives, a very superior offspring
resulting from such marriages. The Wahuma are everywhere herds-
men. They live principally on milk and meat, and seldom engage
in agriculture. On account of this, it is impossible in Uganda, where
the Wahiuma are despised, to induce a Waginda to have anything to
do with the breeding of cattle. The Wahuma do not mix with the
tribes among whom they live ; they have a language of their own
and live in out-of-the-way villages. -R. W. F.

Bows axp Arrows.-Emin Pasha supplies precise information on
the weapons of the Akka and other tribes with whom he became
acquainted. In connexion with this subject, a paper by Dr. Ratzel
" On the Geographical Distribution of Bows and Arrows in Africa"
(Berichte d. Siichs. Ges. d. Wiss., Phil.-hist. CL., 1887, pp. 232-252,
map) will prove of interest.

Bark Crot.-A species of fig (Ficus lutea), which grows abun-
dantly throughout Uganda, is the tree from which mbuguz or bark
cloth is procured. The bark is taken from young trees; two
incisions are made round the trunk, a third, which is vertical,
joining the other two. The bark is then stripped off and the
outer surface carefully removed, after which it is laid on a smooth
square block of wood and rapidly beaten, in time to a low chant,
with heavy wooden mallets. These mallets have circular grooved

518 APPENDIX.

heads, which give to the bark a ribbed appearance like corduroy,
and under their blows it quickly thins out like gold under the
gold-beater's hammer. When the bark has been beaten out to
the requisite thinness, it is hung up to dry, and afterwards any
holes which may have been produced in the beating are neatly
patched with the trimmings from the edges. The thread used for
this purpose is made from the bark, or from the fibres of the plantain,
and a long thorn is used for a needle ; the sewing is remarkably
neat. - The mbugu, when new, is of a yellow-brown tint, resembling
freshly tanned leather ; some of the finer sorts, however, are of a
dull brick-red colour. They vary very much in quality, some of the
better kinds being beautifully soft, and these are procured chiefly
from the Sesse group of islands. The principal fault of this cloth is
that it soon decays if it gets wet. Sometimes the mbugu is dyed,
generally black, or various patterns in black, red, and blue are
printed on it. The tree from which the bark is removed is not
killed by the operation ; the wound is covered with banana leaves,
which are bound closely round it, and in process of time new bark
grows. A considerable number of people are employed in this
manufacture ; the women strip the bark from the trees and do any
repairing to the cloth that is necessary, but men beat out the bark
and make the cloth. -R. W. F.

BryeEracrs.-Brewing is extensively carried on in Uganda, as the
Wagianda have an inveterate objection to drinking water, and many
of them boast that from early childhood water has never passed
their lips. Almost every one knows how to manufacture some kind
of drink, and men and women, boys and girls, alike engage in this
occupation. Two kinds of wine and two kinds of beer are manu-
factured :-Mubist, called sandi in Unyoro, is fresh banana wine,
which is a perfectly tecetotal drink; mwénge, an intoxicating banana
wine ; mlamba, a non-intoxicating beer made of banana juice, with
a small quantity of boiled millet seed ; and maliwa, which has a
greater quantity of millet seed added, and is very inebriating.

The Arabs have introduced the manufacture of spirits from
mwéenge, and distil a liquor from it which contains a very high
percentage of alcohol.

The mubis? is made as follows:-A large hole is dug in the
ground ; it is lined with banana leaves, filled with green bananas,
and covered over until the fruit is quite ripe. The bananas are
then peeled, and mashed with fine dried grass in a large wooden
boat-shaped trough, having a funnel end ; a little water is added ;
the whole is mixed up either by the hand or with short wooden

APPENDIX, 519
sticks ; the trough is then covered with banana leaves, and the
mixture allowed to stand for an hour or two. It is then taken out,
and the liquor strained through sieves made of grass into large
bottle gourds, being then ready for use, and forming a sweet, non-
intoxicating, pleasant drink.

To make mwénge, the above decoction is set aside for three days,
when it ferments and becomes a slightly acid and refreshing drink,
but it is very inebriating. - Malwa and mlamba are made by simply
adding a definite quantity of boiled millet seed to the mubis?, setting
it aside in large earthenware jars, and stirring it from time to time
for two or three days. No substances are added to any of these
drinks to change their flavour.

These drinks are never stored; they are made as required, and
consumed by the evening of the fourth day. If the mwéenge be
bottled and kept in a cool place for a couple of months, it tastes
very much like champagne.

Mrisa is a drink made from durrah ; it is largely used throughout
the whole of the Egyptian Sudan. The grain is allowed to ferment,
the liquor is then boiled and cooled, and set aside for two days
before use. -R. W. F.

instrument consists of twelve to twenty pieces of
hard resonant wood, which are scooped out in the middle and laid
upon two parallel logs. It has the greatest compass of any musical
instrument in Uganda. It is played by two performers, who squat
on each side of it, and strike the logs with drumsticks. A chord
of four notes can be played at once.-R. W. F.

Maxaara, also called mweso, is the only game, properly so called,
which the Waginda know. It is played by two people, upon an
oblong board containing thirty-two holes in four rows of eight each,
the players having a certain number of counters, which may be
either stones, beads, or coffee-berries. Each player places a certain
number of counters in his two rows of holes, and the game, which
is a very complicated one, and requires a considerable amount of
calculation, consists in trying to obtain all the stones belonging to
the opposite player. The counters are redistributed in turn, and
on stopping at a hole, a player may, under certain conditions, take
the opponent's counters out of the two holes opposite. It is a
most fascinating game, and the people will sit for hours playing at
it. It is so difficult, however, that I was not able to learn how to
play it myself. It is probably not a native game, but may have
been introduced from the east coast, where a somewhat similar game

called Bao is played by the Arabs and the Suaheli. -R. W. F.

520 APPENDIX,

ORNITHOLOGY.

CrErtH1A. -This supposed Certhia or creeper is among the most
interesting birds discovered by Emin Pasha. It is the third species
of a genus, of which Salpornis spilonota, a rare bird of Central India,
is the type. A second species (S. Salvadori?) has been found in
Benguella. The species discovered by Emin Pasha has been described
by me under the name of S. Zminz, Hartl. -HartuAUusB.

CoryTHAIXx.-Emin Pasha names this genus in proof of Monbuttu
being linked to the fauna of tropical Western Africa. It should,
however, be observed that two fine species (Corythaiz lexcotis and
C. leueolophus) represent this genus in North-eastern Africa, and
that several other species, most of which have been discovered only
recently, are met with in Eastern Africa.

Birps or Moxsutrv.-The species referred to on p. 314 remain
doubtful until their skins shall have been examined. This applies
more especially to Turacus, which Emin Pasha was not able to com-
pare with specimens obtained farther west, as also to his species of
a Corythaix, which is hardly identical with Linné's Corythatz persa.
The Musophaga n. sp. is undoubtedly Musophaga Rosse, Gould, which
is numerously represented in the collection which Bohndorff brought
home from the Nyam-Nyam country. I learn from letters written
in April 1887 that Emin Pasha had not then been able to forward
the Monbuttu birds intended for me. -HARrTLAUE.

Passer pomrstIous (p. 303). -This bird is identical with Brehm's
Passer rufidorsalis (Speng, Zoolog. Jahrbiicher, ii. p. 325).

Prous. -The species of this bird which Dr. Emin describes as
being nearly related to Picus scheensis is that bird itself. Two speci-
mens from Okkela are in the Bremen Museum.-HarttaUQs.

Poconxnornyxconus (p. 262) -No bird named Bessornis Rolleti
exists. There are only two specimens named after Rollet, namely,
Pogonorhynchus Rollett and Oriolus Rolleti, Salvad. The bird de-
scribed by Dr. Emin as " beautiful" is probably a Pogonorhynchus.
This is, however, doubtful, for Dr. Emin has sent specimens of both
birds, which may consequently both occur in the same locality.-
Hartuaus.

BOTANY.

@" GarnuEry Forest," a descriptive term first introduced by Dr.
Bchweinfurth. See "The Heart of Africa," i. pp. 504, 506 ; ii. p. 166.
-RatzEr.

rm

APPENDIX, 521

plant is not found on the upper Nile. Dr.
Emin probably mistook it for one of the abundant Scrophulariacece
with bright blossoms, such as Striga, Sopubia,

Mmnmtosas.-Only one species of this genus exists in the region
under consideration,. Dr. Emin, when using this term, evidently
refers to acacias, of which there are many shrubs and trees. -
SenwemrortH.

MISCELLANEOUS,

Strattoxs.-These are military stations or forts. Hach station
is fortified, either by earthworks or strong stockades, and each
possesses several gates, which remain open from 6 A.m. till 8 P.M.,
and at which sentries are mounted night and day. From sunset
to sunrise no gun may be fired off in or near a station, except as a
signal of alarm. At 5.30 Am. the reveille is sounded, and soon
after the signal, " Light your fires." At 6 a.m. the roll is called
and the gates opened ; the soldiers drill, and the women begin to
sweep the streets. At 8.30 all excepting the sentries turn out to
work in the fields, to draw water, or to fetch wood ; the dew being
by that time dried up, the cattle are sent out to graze. - Work lasts
till 11.30, when there is an interval for rest till 2.30 pa. It then
continues till 5 P.»., when all return inside the fort. At 8 PA.
the roll is called, the gates shut, and at 9 PM. all fires are extin-
guished, an officer going the rounds to see that this regulation is
obeyed. The orders are most strict with regard to fire. Should a
strong wind arise during the day, the bugle sounds " fires out," and
any one not promptly conforming to the rule is severely punished,
This is a very necessary precaution, as, if a hut catches fire, it is
with difficulty that the whole station is saved from destruction. In
the spring of 1878 Lado itself was burned down, and the immense
stores which Baker Pasha had taken to the province were all de-
stroyed. It was owing to these precautions being omitted that
Wiadelai and several other stations were completely burned to the
ground in 1887.-R. W. F.

LatErttE.-The "bog iron ore" and " ferruginous clay" (clay
ironstone) frequently mentioned by Dr, Emin appears to be laterite,
the extension of which throughout the Congo region has recently
been made known by Dr. Pechuel-Loesche and others. Specimens
from the Congo agree with those obtained from the Bahr-el-CGhazal.
-SCHWEINFURTH.

Faxri (fakir, pl. fukara), literally a poor man, that is, a mendicant

522 APPENDIX.

monk, applied in the Sudan more especially to teachers of the Koran,
and also to those who have learned to write. -ScerwEmNrurtH.

Misstoxns.-A very brief note on the Christian Missions in or near
the Equatorial Province may be interesting. In 1848 a mission
was started in Khartim under the leadership of Father Ryllo, who
was accompanied by Knoblecher, Vinco, and Pedemonte. The first
mission station on the White Nile was established at Ulibari, close to
Gondokoro, in 1851, and in 1854 the "Holy Cross" mission station
was founded not far from Abukuka, in the country of the Kich. For
thirteen years the missionaries laboured and suffered, fifteen out of
twenty of them died,. and the mission was finally given up in 1862.
We owe important geographical and linguistic work to these intrepid
pioneers, especially to Morlang, Knoblecher, Beltrame, and Dorvak.
With regard to their success as missionaries, less can be said, but they
suffered so much from sickness that the wonder is they held on so long,
and it must not be forgotten that they were pioneers, and that they
had not the benefit of experience. The missionaries at Khartim and
El Obeid did good work, established schools, and met with no little
success.

In 1876 the Church Missionary Society sent out a well-equipped
party to Ugénda. In 1877 four of the party arrived at the south
end of the Victoria Nyanza, one of whom, Dr. Smith, died there.
Lieutenant Smith and the Rev. C. T. Wilson reached Uganda, but
the former was subsequently murdered, together with Mr. O'Neil, ab
Ukewere. A mission has existed in Uganda ever since 1877, and a
number of missionaries have carried on the work in spite of great
difficulties and hardships. Mr. A. M. Mackay has laboured there for
ten years with the greatest perseverance and zeal. Much translation-
work has been accomplished, and the Mission-school has been resorted
to by large numbers, many of whom have become Christians.

After Mtésa's death, Mwanga, his successor, tortured and burnt
many of the Christians, and ordered the murder of Bishop Hanning-
ton on the frontier; but, notwithstanding this, there are still about
45 communicants, 200 Protestant Christians, and 100 Catechumens.

In 1878 Roman Catholic missionaries also reached Uganda, and
have continued working there up to the present time. They have
a school, and many of their pupils have suffered death on account of
their Christianity ; statistics are unavailable.-R. W. F.

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

 

Latitude and longitude of each place are given in brackets.

ABBREVIATIONS. mountain ; mts., mountains ;

vill., village ; dist., district ;

sta., stations ; zer., geriba.

A-Bastra, tribe (3° 30° N. 25° 30° E.), 405

Abakd, tribe (4° 40' N. 290° 30° E.), 381-385

Abanga, see Bamba

Abdugminda, a Zanda tribe, 375

Abanya hill (8° 27" N. 32° 41' E .), 247

Abdrambo, tribe (3° 30' N. 26° 45 E.), 197,
203, 441

Abayo, mt. (8° 25 N. 82° 42" E.), 247,
248, 271

Abd-el-Kader Pasha, 441, 470, 434, 470

Abd-es-Sadik, his cruelty, 412

Abd-er-Rahman- bin -Abeid - bin - Hamis-
el-Habeshi, 488, 489

Abd-es-Samat, Abdullahi Wod, a Don-
golaui (nephew of Mohammed Abu-es-
Samat, who in Schweinfurth's time
owned Sabi and other stations in the
Bahr-el-Ghazal), his cruelty, 383, 468,
471, 413-5

Abdullahi, see Abd-es-Samat

Aber, swamp (6° 48' N. 29° 25" E.), 341

Abiai, cattle zer. (6° 59° N. 28° 59° E.),
343, 344

Abisanga, or Mabisanga, tribe (3° 40' N.
27° 80° K.), 196, 203, 445

Ablenyim, mt. (3° 55 N. 32° 47' E.), 267

Abre, tribe of Monbuttu, 203

Abreal dist. (7° N. 29° 5 55" E.), 344

Abrus precatorlus, L., 4 Llnnbmg plant,
order Leguminose, 20, 225

Abu-es-Samat, see Abd-es-Samat

Abu Gurun, sta., see Dirar

Abukaya, tribe, divided into A. oizila
(5° N. 30° E.), and A. cigiga (3° 50° N
29° 50° E.), 365

Abure, vill. (4° 13' 83° 7"), 240

Abu Sala, see Labilla

Abu Saud (son-in-law of Agid Ahmed
Sheikh, a great ivory and slave trader.
Baker wanted to hang him (" Ismailia,"
Index), but Gordon took him into
favour,. Hedied at Khartim 1881), 432

 

-

Abuti, vill, (4° 18' N. 80° 28" E.), 370

Acacias, 3, 14, 107, 132, 801, 400

Acacia alblda Del., 239

campylacantha, 221, 289, 281

fistula (Um Sufura, of Arabs), 27

242, 261

guinmifera, 281 ©

mellifera, 167, 239

nilotica, 4, 485

Acanthus arboreus, Forsk. (order Acan-
thacese), 125, 380

Acclimatisation of plants, 417, 418, 422-
424, 449, 457, 459, 460

Acclimatisation of animals, 889-390

Achatina zebra, a shell, 227°

Actitis hypoleucos, sandpiper, 195

Adamawa, country (9° N. 13° E.), 500

Adders, 146

Adenia venenata, see Passion-flowers

Adenium speciosum, Fenzl, a bush, order
Apocynese, 216, 300

Adodi, mt. (8° S1 N. 82° 27" F.), 267

Addl, mt. (6° 47' N. 29° 28" E.), S41

Aédon, " warbler" (a bird), 226, 236

Egialites pecuarius, a plover, 184

Eschynomene Schimperi, Hochst., the
"solah " of India, a bushy tree, order
Leguminosse, 123

Afiati, vill, (6° 45 N. 29° 36' E.), 834

Afin, dist. (6° 88" N, 29° 40' E.), 334

Afzelia, order Leguminoss, 107

Agapornis pullaria, L., a dwarf parrot,
353, 367, 385, 399, 404

Agar, Dinka tribe (6° 30° N. 29° 40' E.),
336-340, 475

Agaru, sta, (3° 52° N. 35° 5° B.), 246,
269, 295, 415

Agau (aboriginal tribes in Abyssinia), 512

Aggu (Aggo), mt. (3° 47' N. 832° 40' E.),
246, 251, 255

Agoro, vill. (3° 32 N. 32° 40° E.), 253, 268

Agudze, vill, (3° 44' N. 32° 11' EK.), 268

 

 

 

 

 

524 INDEX AND

Aguok, chief of Fadibék, 247, 269, 270

Ahmed Auat, sta. in Babhr-el-Ghazal, 469

Aire, river, see Yalo

Aje, a div. of the Lingo (3° N. 33° 45" E.),
244, 252, 415

Akbaya, a div. of the Makrakd, 3876

Akka, dwarfish tribe, call themselves
Batwa (1° 80° N. 29° 30' E. and else-
where), physique, 316, 429; mode of
life, 815; weapons, 194, 8316 ; half-
breeds, 316 ; native designations, 508

AuKkKkara, country (8° 28° N. 35° 10° E.),
238, 249, 203

Akudeli, div. of the Makrakd, 376

Akunero, mt. (3° 62 N. 82° 37 E
255

Alare, khor (3° 55°N. 58° 87 -L.), 242

Albert Lake (Mwuatan Nzigé), navigation,
14, 147; 162; depth, 148, 157, 159 ;
saltness, 184 ; origin, 171; sea-sick, 184

Albinos in Unyéro, 64, 447

Albizzia serico-cephalus, a mimosa-like
tree, order Leguminos, 106

Alel Kuimba, a forge (6° 50' N, 29° 4' E.),
345

Aliagar, hill (3° 455 N. 82° 80 E.), 255

Allo, khor (mouth 50° 16" N, 20° 42" E.),
387

Alogs, 37, 187, 183, 161, $60 ;
incantations, 149

Aluganya sta. (4° 45 N. 30° 8' E.),

Aluri, tribe, see Laur

Alwaj (Elwaj), see Way

Amadi, sta. (5° 88' -N, 30° 21'~E.), its
Danagla despots, and statistics of popu-
lation, 3811-312, 409 ; defence, 471,
473-6, 479-80, 486 ; also 355

Amadina, " wax-bill," a bird, 34

Amara or Uamara (Eastern Us6oga ?), 97

Amaranthus (caudata ?), 25, 48, 148, 372,
459

Ambaj (Herminiera), 11, 12, 436

Ambereko, vill. (5° N. 29° 33' E.), 384, 385

Amblyospiza, a bird, 200

Anok, khor (3° 52 N. 33° 3" B.), 218

Amomum (genus of the order Scita-
minege), 106, 125, 199, 268, 277 (native
names), 362, 423 (use of its seeds)

Ampularia Wernei, a plant, 279

Amrupi, hot spring (3° 23' N. 32° 12' E,),
158

Amulets, in Beramese, 86

Anastomus lamelligerus, a stork, 162, 166

Andropogon sorghum, see Durrah

Aunfina, chief of Magungo, Shifal4, and

.}, 254,

used in

387

part of the country, 21, 137 (a
"gentleman "), 283-284 (reception,
character); 472, 486

Anfina's island (Mukana), (2° 16° N. 32°

 

17' E.), 280

GLOSSARY.

Angal, vill. (2° 10° N. 30° 59" E.), 151

Angraecum, a parasitical orchid, 125

Anje, khor (4° 84' N. 29° 51' E.), 371

Ankareb (Arabic), bedstead, 181

Anogeissus, silk-tree of Arabs, order
Combretacese, 814, 384, 387, 899

Anomalurus orlentahs, a fiymg squirrel,
200, 897

Annna, tree, 199 (fruit), 206, 569, 873,
399, 443

Anona senegalensis,
(northern limit) E

Anges, chief of Kanga (4° 42' N. 29° 82
E.), 879, 882, 489

Ant-eaters, see Orycteropus

Antelopes, see Antilope, Tragelaphus,
Hydrotragus

Anthistiria, a grass, 149, 182

Anthoclexsta, genus of 'the order Logo-
niacese, 195

Anthropoid apes, 399 ; see Chimpanzee
and Masiki

Anthus, a pipit (bird), 183

Antilope (Kobus) ellipsiprymna, Ogylb,
101, 145

-- (Neotragus) Hemprichiana,
(Um-dikdik), 222

leucotis, Licht and Pet., 101, 130,

" gourd-tree," 104

Ehr.

 

228

oreas, Pall., 86, 101, 222, 265

(Bubalis) senegalensis, H. Smith, 145

Ants (white, Termes bellicosus), 13, 24,
26, 80, 329, 343

Ants, red, 310

Anyisori, vill, (3° 48' N, 82° b' BA, 262

Aoa, khor (4° 41' N. 29° 22" E.), 383

Aonix, a monkey, 399

Apagumba, a Zand tribe, 875

Apes, anthropoid, see Masiki, Kinyabantu,
and Chimpanzee

Aphrodisiac, 459

Apuddo, a division of the Midi, within
whose territory Sir S. Baker built
" Ibrahimia'' (3° 35°N.32° 10' .). The
falls of the Nile below Dufilé named
after it, 9

Aquila Wahlbergii, an eagle, 183

Arabs from Zanzibar, in Ugdnda and Un-
yoro, 111, 113, 115, 116, 128, 132, 488

Arachys hypogsea, L., see Ground-nut

Arama, Gambari's brother (his vill., 2
84' N. 28° 22" B.), 199, 446

Arda, Arab name for white ants or
termites, 13

Ardea alba and comata, herons, 166, 144

Ardeb, a measure, holds about three
bushels

Areda, mt. (3° 30' N. 02° 5) 2

Arenm khor (8° 41" N. 82° $7"
295

 

 

5
i' ¥.), 246,

INDEX AND GLOSSARY,

Arise, khor (5° 35 M. 80° 82° Ey, 810,
356

Aristida, a grass, 172, 176

Arita, khor (5° 22" N. 30° 30° E.), 356

Arju, mt. (8° 455 N. 82° E.), 8, 9.

Artocarpus (bread fruit), 195 ; see Myri-
anthus

Arundo phragmitis, L., a reed, 12

Asa, khor (4° 33" N. 29° 52' E.), 379

Asala, hill (4° 52" N. 290° 31' E), 885

Asanga, Munza's brother, see Sanga

Ashe, Rev. Mr., 495

Asi, khor (3° 7" N. 32° 5 E.), 105, 106

Asplenium (furcatum, L. ?), a fern, 125

Assuan, vill., 463

Astrilda (Estrelda Astrild, L.), wax-bill
finch, 34, 56

Astur metabates, goshawk, 258

polyzonus, many-banded goshawk,
142, 258

Asturinula monogrammica, Temm., a
goshawk, 406

Asua, khor (mouth 3° 43' N. 32° 2" E.),
275, 271

Atappi, khor (mouth 3° 42" N. 32° 5 E.),
255, 262, 207

Atherura, Atherure, or tufted-tailed por-
eupine, 200, 396

Atikki, mt. (3° 58" N. 31° 51" E.), 260

Ato, mt. (2° 53" N. 32° 80° E.), 275, 276

Atoi, dist. (6° 42' N. 29° 38" E.), 334

Atot, see Atwot

Atrush's sta., on the Yei, 362, 374

Atwot (Atot), tribe (6° 20" N. 30° 20' E.),
821, 839, 342

Au, kbhor (4° 28" N. 30° 15 E.), 872

Aueri, vill. (2° 15 N. 32° 17" E.), 287

Aulacodus Swinderianus (a porcupine),
383

Avungodi, div. of the Makrakd, 376

Awad-el-Kerim, chief of the Shukurie,
434

Ayak, sta. (6° 28' N. 20° 43° K.), 381
(slave-trade), 411 (statistics), 468, 471
(evacuation), 495

Ayell, dist. (6° 55" N. 29° E.), 343

Ayi, river, Yei, or Rodi (mouth 7° 27' N.
30° 45 E.), native names, 314, 320 ;
817, 319, 320, 321 (lower course), 355
(at Amadi), 367, 443

Ayi, khor (4° 7' N. 32° 29' E.), 255, 256

Ayu, khor and sta. (3° 50° N. 31° 55! E.),

267

 

BABINGE, rivulet (0° 26' N. 32° 39' E.),
47

Babites (a Mohammedan sect founded
1840-5 in Persia), 434

Baboons, geographical distribution, 57 ;
in 153, 156 ; also 224, 227, 384

 

525

Babukur, tribe (4° 50'N., 29°E.),physique,
384 ; language, 384 ; huts, 384; cauni-
balism, 192; cireumeision, 384

Badia, hill (4° 33" N. 29° 52" E.), 378

Badingo, dried bananas, 444

Baga, vill. (4° 41' N. 29° 10 E.), 888

Bagb‘f, chict (tes. 5° 28" N. 30° 58° E.),

6

Bagger, khor (mouth 3° 12" N. 82° 25 E.),
246, 248, 252, 272, 278, 296

Baginmanya, vill. (4° 81" N. 80° 16 E.),
388

Baginge, mt. (4° 23" N. 28° 58" E.)

Balhr-el-Ghazal, province (see map); con-
dition in 1882, 430; slavery, 421 ;
revolt, 458, 462, 465, 505; evacuated
by the Danagla, 486

Bahr-el-Jebel, physical features, 194, $98,
400, 453 ; ferry at Labore, 258 ; ascent
to Lad6, 436

Bahr-el-Zarafe (mouth 9° 23" N. 31° 30'
E.), 222, 445, 454, 471, 488

Bakangai, Zandé chief (dead), resided
S%1' N. 26° 47' RB.

Bakara (" cow-keepers "), Arab tribe, 9°
20' N. 27° E., and along White Nile,
433, 437

Baker, Sir Samuel, 22, 27, 50, 63, 96, 157

Balanites segyptiaca, Del., tree, order
Rimarubese, 174, 182, 289, 201, 299,
400

Balearic cranes (Balearics), 292, 841, 345

Balia, Kinyoro name of Akka, 508

Balsamodendron, order Burseracese, 398

Bamba (Abangba of Zanda, or Mundu,
8° 20'~N.-28° 40' E.J., 192, 190, 205,
441 ; see also Babukur

Bamban, swamp (5° 1' N. 31° 22" E.), 302

Bamboos, 459 ; see Bambusa, Dendro-
calamus

Bambusa arundinacea (bamboo), 419, 423

Bamia, Arabic for Hibiscus esculentus,
(q.v.) '

Bananas, in Ugignda, 38 ; in Midi, 101,
193, 207, 399, 285, 444

Bandama, khor (mouth 4° 30' N. 30° 20'
E.), 872, 389

Bang (hemp), smoked, 515

Bangaijok, vill, (4° 82' N. 82° 59° E.),
235

5

Banjia, div. of the Zanda (4° 30' N. 24°
80 E.), 455

Bantu, family of tribes, northern boun-
dary, 899

Bara, khor (3° 8" N. 82° 80° E.}, 275

Ihor (5° 38' N. 30° 22 E.), 317

3arabra or Nubians, 433

Barbet, see Trachyphounus, Pogonorhyun-
chus

Bari, dist. (3° 48' N. 32° 5 E.), 262

 

526

Bari, tribe (4° 30' N. 32° E.), physique,
369 ; deformation of knees, 5; sub-
divisions, 369 ; villages, 217, 219, 290 ;
dress, 5; agriculture, 291 ; tribal feuds,
217; colonies, 868, 874; revolt, 488,

490

Bark cloth, 40, 78, 81, 119, 120, 210,
517

Barra, khor (5%88' N. 80° 32 B.), 817

Basingers (slaves trained to the use of
arms), 409

Bassia Parkii, Hassk. (a butter-tree), 26,
300, 341, 350, 400

Batatas edulis, Choisy, see Sweet potatoes

Batn-el-Hajr, a dist, of Nubia (21° 20'
N.), 682

Bats, 43, 113 ; see also Xanthorpia

Batwa, see Akka

Bauru, vill, (6° 26" N. 29° 20' E.), 347

bays, mt. (4° S5 N. 85° 30° IK.), 241,
295

Bayango, mt. (4° 12' N. 83° 10' E.), 241,
294

Bay ita, vill. (3° 2 N. 32° 25° E.), 107

Beans, 371 ; see Phaseolus

Bedén, sta., named after a chief (4° 385!
N. 81° 86' E.), 3, 858

Bedmot, vill, (2° 7' N. 32° 27" B.), 288

Bee-eater, see Merops

Beef-eater, see Buphaga

Beetles, see Oryctes

Befo, a Bari chief, 215, 216, 470, 488

Beli, a tribe of Mittu (6° 20' N. 29° 55'
E.), 342 ; tribal marks, 346 ; dress, 329,
346 ; pile dwellings, 329 ; villages, 346 ;
fishing, 846 ; hunting-trophies, 349 ;
dances and amusements, 348-350

Belinian (Bilingong), mt. (4° 56' N. 31°
56' E.), 215, 289

Bellima, Gambari's vill. (3° 10' N. 28° 40"
E.), 191, 192, 194, 201, 438, 442, 444

Ber, tribe of Shauli (5° N. 32° 30° E.), 221,
222, 220, 288, 201

Berr, khor (4° 57' N. 31° 30' E.), 801

Berri, vill. (5° 17' N. 80° 44' E.), 857

Beramese, dist. (0° 55 N. 32° 30° K.), 36

Beshir Salah, his misdeeds, 322

Bessornis Heuglinii (a chat), 227

Rolleti, see Pogonorhynchus

Betwa (Batwa), see Akka

Beverages, see Sandi, mwenge, mlamba,
malva, mrisa, 518

Bigyo, will. (3° 5 N.82" 35) E.) 241,
273

 

Bibia, khor (mouth 4° 46" N. 30° 25 E.),
361, 363

Bicher, khor (4° 40° N. 32° 42' E.), 231

Bilbo, a tick, 184

Billa, indiarubber plant, 347

Binza, Zande chief (4° $0' N. 27' 37' E.)

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Birds, migration of, 165

Birinji, a rebel, 469, 479

Biti, sta. (5° 58' N. 80° 84' F.), 811, 312

Biyerre (Aruwimi) (mouth 1° 10' N. 23°
50' E.), xxii

Bizelli or Kurnuk;, sta. (7° 48" N. 27° 49
E.), 469

Bkimba, chief, in Unyéro, 58, 59

25" N. 51°

Blood-brotherhood in Uny6éro, 77

Boars, 101, 228, 279

Bodio, Zandé chief (3° 53' N. 29° 10' E.),
452

Bogboro, stream (3° 14' N. 28° 40' E.),
190

Bog iron, 24, 188 ; see Laterite

Bognia, dist. (8°-25' N. E.), 259,
296, 415

Bohndorff, 452

Boiko (6° 14' N. 28° 58 E.), 471

Boki, chief of Fanyumori, 164, 165, 185,
487

Bombart, vill. (5° 50' N. 81° 5518.3, 298

Bombe or Bongbe, tribe of the Iddio
division of the Zande (4° N. 29' E.),
192, 375, 473

Bomokandi, Nomayo or Mayo, river
{source 2° 20° N. 29° 80' E.), 191, 405,
454, 447

Bondua, a division of the Makrakd, 376

Bongbe, Zande tribe, see Bombe

Bongere's vill, (83° 40° N. 28° 56' E.),
449, 451

Bongo or Dor, tribe (6° 30° N. 28° 30
E.), 344, 430

Bongo or Labongo, dist. (3° 20' N. 32°
S5' E.), 262

Bonjurem, mt. (4° 48" -N. 32° 3 .B.)
216

Bopara, swamp (4° 45 N. 29° 45 E.)

Bor, tribe, 6

Bor, sta. (6° 13' N. 81° 44' E.), road to
Lataika, 228, 4837, 470, 475, 477, 482,
487, 513

Bora, vill. (3° 8 N. 81° 839 E.), 12, 160

Borassus flabelliformis, see Doléb palm

Bori, vill. and mt. (5° 2° N. 32° 30' E.),
228

Bori, a Zandé chief, 445

Boron, mt. (4° 24' N; 81° 25" E.), 359

Bornu, country (12° N. 12° E.), 500

Bos bubalus, see Buffalo

Bostrychus sp., a beetle, 4

Boswellia papyracea, a stunted tree,
yielding gum, 48, 218, 290, 358

Bote, tribe in Monbuttu, 203

Bova, mt. (0° 40' N. 32° 32" E.), 129, 130

Bows and arrows, 517

Brera, tribe of Midi, on the Kibali, 865

Briaki, vill. (0° 47' N. 32° 33' E.), 130

le

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Btenga, Gabla's native country, 283

Btobe, vill. (1° 40' N. 81° 50° E.), 71

Btuti, vill. (1° 25 N. 32° 22' B.), 29, 135

Bubo capensis (eagle owl), 366

Bubuleus ibis, Hasselq. (buff-backed
heron), 215

Buceros cristatus, Riipp. (crested horn-
bill), 399

Budytes flava, var, cinereocapilla, Sav.
(yellow wagtail), 882 ; migration, 395

Buffaloes, 29, 100, 221, 222, 233, 363,
372, 391

Buf, tribe (6° N. 30° 20° E.\, 319, 321

Bufi, sta. (6° N. 30° 20' E.) 820, 410,
411, 468

Bugs, 104, 267

Bugoma, near Kibiro, 180

Bukrasa, vill. (0° 40' N. 32° 355 E.), 130

Bulbul (bird), see Pyenonotus

Buphaga erythrorhyncha, a beef-eater
(bird), 245

Buteo augur, var. nigra, a buzzard, 184

Butterflies, see Eques

Butter-trees, 26, 153, 291, 800, 333, 341,
346, 350, 400 ; see Bassia and Stereo-
spermum

Butyrospermum or Bassia, see Butter-
trees

Buvuma, vill. (0° 35 N. 32° 39' E.). 129

Buzzards, see Circaétus, Buteo, Poliornis

Bzaggara, vill, (1° 2" N. 32° 31' E.)

CaBBAacEs, 457

Caddis-fly, see Chrysopaperla

Czesalpinias, 359

Calabashes, 276

Calamoherpe arundinacea, Gn., and C.
palustris, Bechst. (reed-warblers), their
migrations, 395

Calamus secundifliorus (a rattan), 160,
190, 381, 399, 423, 444 ; geographical
distribution, 404

Calladias, shrubs, 125, 380

Calotropis procera, R. Br., plant, order
Asclepiadacese, 8, 140, 162, 174, 242,
401

Camelopardalis, see Giraffe

Camels, 390, 415

Campephaga phcenicea, Sw.,
(" caterpillar-eater "), 399

Canarium edule, Hk., see Mpafu-tree

Canavalia, order Leguminose, 101

Canna indica (seeds known as "Indian
shots "), 42, 137, 372

Cannibalism, 192, 193, 206

in Uny6ro, 77, 94

Caoutchouc, 199, 431, 443; see also
Landolphia,

Capparidaces, order of plants (Caper
family), 380

a bird

 

 

527

Caprimulgus  inornatus, Heugl. (goat-
sucker) 401 + f

Capsicum conicum, see Pepper

Caracal, a lynx, 382

Carica Papaya, see Papaw-tree

Carissa, a tree, order Apocynes, 183

Carpzdiuus, plant yielding indiarubber,

Carrots, 457

Casati, Captain, 200, 459, 460, 473, 477,
482, 485, 501

Cassia sp. (senna), 157

Cat, domesticated, 80 ; wild, 228 ; see also
Felis

Caterpillars, as food, 371

Cattle, in Uny6éro, 59, 90 ; in Nyambara,
805 ; of the Shuli, 244; in Shifal4,
286 ; in Luir, 150, 155 ; Bari, 289

Cattle disease in Lataika, 223

Centropus monachus, alark-heeled cuckoo,
254

Cerambyx, a long-horned beetle, 146

Cezgopiuhecus (a genus of monkeys), 387,

1

--- griseo-viridis, 54, 57, 136, 485

ruber, 57

sabzeus, 57, 200

nov. sp. 57, 200

Certhia, 500 ; see Salpornis

Ceryle rudis (pied kingfisher), 144

Chad, lake (14° N. 14° E.), 405

Chalcites Clasii and Ch.
(cuckoos), 227

Chameleons, 146

Chamma, mt. (4° N. 32° 30' E.), 255

Charms, 47

Chat, see Thamorolsea, Bessornis

Cheetah (Cynailurus guttatus), 223, 265,
270

Chelidopteryx Riocourii (a hawk), 160

Chenalopex segy ptiacus (Egyptian goose),

66

 

 

 

cupreus

Chimpanzee (Troglodytus niger), 56,
156, 200, 405; a fable, 96 ; presented
with one, 355

Chinese labour, 416, 419

Chol, khor, or Lower Ginetti (g. v.)

Chongo, khor, or Upper Gulmar (6° 23"
N. 29° 28" E.), 848

Chopi, the country of the Wachope or
Shifala (g.¥.)

Chromis, a fish, 326

Chrysococeyx, Boddaert (Cuculus, Sharpe)
a cuckoo, 394

Chrysopaperla (Caddis fly), 144

Chrysospiza lutea, Lickht.(golden sparrow),
393

Chufal, mt., see Ekara

Chuki, khor (3° 39" N. 32° 13" E.), 265

Chulong, chief of Latdaka, 222, 2214

528

Churchur, ford (4° 26' N. 32° 58° E.),
239, 2094 f

Cichladusa guttata, a bird, 227

Ciconia alba (common stork), 395

-- episcopus, 290

Cinchona (Peruvian bark), proposed in-
troduction, 424

zonurus (a buzzard), 866

Cireumeision, in Londd, 154 ; in Mon-
buttu, 212

Cisticola ladoensis (fantail warbler), 174

Citrons, 373, 889

Civets, 332

Clarias (the "sharmoot" of Egypt), a
fish, 346

Clausilia (a univalve snail), 379

Clay, scented, 73

Cloth, see Bark cloth

Coal, in Monbuttu, 201

Coccinia, order Cucurbitacem, 75

Coffee, 77, 79, 118 ; Liberian, 424

Cola-nuts, 199, 207, 442

Coleus, order Labiatse, 131

Colobus guereza, Riipp.(Guereza monkey),
15, 64, 191, 155, 196, 226, 278, 880;
geographical distribution, 57, 102

Colocasia (antiquorum ?), a tuber, order
Aracese, 36-38, 206, 286, 370, 376, 449

Colubridge (Coluber serpents), 366

Combretum (order Combretaceze), 65, 107,
189, 899

Coney, see Hyrax

Convolvulus, 131 ; see also TIpomcea

Coracias caudata, L. (lilac-breasted roller),
399

Corchorus, shrub (mlokhia of Arabs), 74,
320

Cormorant, 144 ; see Phalacrocorax

Corvus scapulatus (a raven), 25, 77

Coryphegnatus albifrons, a bird, 146

Corythaix (a plantain-eater), 200

leucolopha, 315

persa, 404, 520

Cosmetornis Spekii (night-jar), 43

Cotton, 820, 352, 368, 374, 388, 506

Cotton-tree, see Eriodendron

Coturnix communis (Harlequin quail),
333

--- Delegorguei, 157, 262, 883, 394

Cowrie shells, 15, 81, 114

Cows, see Cattle

Crab, see Telphusa

Crakes, see Crex, Ortygometra

Cranes, crowned, 233 ; see also Balearic
cranes

Cratreva, a tree, order Capparidacere,
399

Crex pratensis, Becht (corn-crake), 895

Crinum (an umbellate bulbous lily), 137,
290

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY,

Crithagra chloropsis (a grosbeak), 402

leucopygia, 174, 802

musica, 146

Crocodiles, 127, 136, 159, 167, 228, 802

Cruciferse (cressworts), 65, 363

Cuckoo, see Centropus, Chalcites, Chry-
sococcyx, Cuculus

Cuculus canorus, L, (common cuckoo),
3095

capensis (Cape cuckoo), 227

Cucumbers, 12, 75, 260, 268, 276

Cucumis Tinneana (a cucumber), 326

Cucurbitaces, see Cucumbers

Cyanopica ecyanea, Pall., and C. Cooki
(magpies), 396

Cyenium (order Serophulariacese), 110

Cynailurus guttatus, see Cheetah

Cynocephalus, see Baboon

(sedges), 276

Cyperus (sedge), 7

Cypselus (swift), 147

 

DacrEro chelicutensis (a kingfisher), 247

Dahabiye (Arabic), a passenger - boat,
with sails and oars

Dalbergia, tree, 107, 801

melanoxylon, Perott, tree (supplies
Senegal ebony), 81

Dallington, Stanley's servant, 47

Damur (coarse, hand-made cotton stuff),
386, 474

Dana, dist., near Labore, 262

Danagla (plur. of Dongolaui, a native of
Dongola, see p. 409); misrule, 408 ;
robberies, 311, 308, 364, 384, 439, 465 ;
in Monbuttu, 204; defeat in Nyambara,
301 ; malefactors captured by Negroes,
885 ; revolt, 466 ; retreat to north,
484, 486, 505

Dange, swamp (4° 15 N. 80° 52 B.),
370

Dar Abu Dinga (5° N. 25° E.), 405

Dar Mahas, in Nubia (20° N.), 882

Darter, see Plotus

Dago, vill. (6° 85 N. 80° 30° .\, 810

Date-palins, 53, 111, 281, 354, 363, 459,
444, 399

Datura (a thorn-apple), 173, 176

Deang, vill, (2° 9'_ N. 82°26" K.), 197,
282

Debatu, vill, (0° 85 N, 82° 87" E.), 48

Debber, pool (6° 45 N. 29° 7' E.), 845

Debono, Andrea, 874

Dedds, khor (3° 25" N. 82° 6 I.), 111

Defa'allah, of Ayak, a rogue, 411, 412

Degea, vill. (0° 87' N. 32° 40' E.), 44

Deélurn,~ khor (5° 87" N. 29° 46° KJ,
353

Demba, vill. (2° 5° N. 59° 98" E.), 1852

Dem Guju (7° 17' N. 26° 26 E.}, 454

 

Mon Se

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

_ Dem Soliman (Suleiman), formerly
__ known as Dem Ziber (Ziber's town),
(7° S8 N. 26° 82" K.), 822, 461, 458,
470, 476
« Dem Ziber, see Dem Soliman
Dendrocalamus strictus (a bamboo), 423
Dendrocygna viduata, widow-duck, 249
Dentonj, Dinka chief, 495
Dereto, vill. (3° 57' N. 32° 2' E.), 257,
297
Derr, pariahs among the Agar, 339
Detarium, order Leguminosie, 2, 202
Dibbi-tree, 385
Diendi, vill. (3° 22' N. 32° 36' E.), 272
Dinka tribe (see map), 437, 512 ; language
and subdivisions, 339; agriculture,
845 ; revolt, 430, 450, 453, 457-8, 493;
see also Agar
Dioscorea alata, see Yam
Diospyros mespiliformis, a fruit-tree, 165,
303, 325, 341, 358
Diptera (flies), 436
Dirar or Abuburun, sta. (7°
25 E.), 469
Diseases, 33, 94, 443, 501
Doggoru, zer. (7° 9' N. 28° 38' E.), 469
Doghurguru, name of the Ayi at Buf,
820

22' N. 28°

Dogovura, vill. (4° 4' N. 32° 29' K.), 255
Dogrupatara, hill (6° 2' N. 23° 49'), 828
Dogs, 371 ; in Monbuttu, 188 ; in Mork,
314 ; in 286 ; in Unyoro, 80,
138, 173
Dojeri, chief, $29
Dokhn (Penicillaria Plucketii), 302, 306,
307, 309
Dokolo, mt. (5° 29" N. 29° 45" E.), 353
Dokurru, wells (6° 19' N. 29° 35 E.),
349
Doléb palm (Borassus flabelliformis), 6,
11, 12, 15, 100, 107, 135, 138, 140, 157,
268, 281, 291, 204, 310, 311, 319, 342,
__ 862, 399, 444 ; geographical dist., 11
_ Dolille Finnu, plateau (6° 23" N. 29° 47"
[ E), s80
Dolla, vill. (6° 17" N. 29° 47" E.), 329
_ Dombo, vill., 454
_ Domebra, pool (6° 13" N. 29° 43' E.), 350
| Domi, mt. (3° 43' N. 32° 9" K.), 263, 265
Dongotola, mt. (4° 17' N. 33° 12 E.), 242,
2092
\ Dongu, sta. and river (3° 54' N., 29° 40'
E.), 201, 439, 450, 451
Donkeys, in Lingo country, 391
Donvu, mt. (5° 40' N. 30° 25° E.), 355
Dore, khor (3° 12 N. 32° 52 E.), 249,
252 ; see also Mire
_Draciena (Dragon's blood tree), 37, 40,
58, 281
Dragon-fiy, 302

 

 

529

Dragomans, freed slaves employed as
police, 409

Dryoscopus nigerrimus, Reich. (a bush-
shrike), 402

Dlglaenge, swamp (1° 7'>N. 82°85 E.)

PDubre, vill., 6° 24" N. 20594" E.J. 948

Ducks, Turkish, 391

Duckweed, see Pistia

Duero, vill. (0° 48 N. 82° 85 E.), 40

Duern, river (mouth 1© 20° N. 30° 5° E.),
167, 179, 507

Dufalla, governor of Ayak, 331

Dunlée, sta. (5° 35 N. 925% 9° E\. 10, 99,
140, 513

Dugfala, vill. (6° 24' N. 29° 46' E.), 330

Dugwara, dist. (6° 7' N. 20° 53' K.), 327

Duhuli, mt. (0° 42' N. 32° 39 E.), 42

Dum-palm (Hyphsene), southern limit,
240, 2094, 401

Durrah (Andropogon Sorghum or Sor-
ghum vulgare), 8, 75, 385, $88, 889

Dwarfs, reported, 3 ; see Akka

Dytiscus, a water-scorpion, 146

EAGLE, see Aquila

Earth-eaters (the Lesi), 827, (Unyéro) 75

Earthquakes, 3, 5, 7, 177, 475

Earwigs (Forficula), 334

Echinops (a saline plant), 266, 363

Echis, a snake, 226

Edi, khor (4° 42' N. 29° 32' E.), 380

Egg-plant, see Solanum

Ekara, mt. (Chufal, Okirri, Midi Peak, or
Jebel Asal) (4° 16' N. 32° 26' H.), 234,
254-256, 202

Ekudeli, vill. (4° 24' N. 30° 14' E.), 372

Elais guineensis, see Oil-palm

Elanus melanopterus, Elanet, a hawk, 369

Elema, vill, (3° 23' N. 32° 7° E.), 157, 111

Elephant, legend (Uny6ro), 96

Elephant-fly, 324

Elephants, 29, 74, 142, 221, 222, 263, 278,
286, 289, 310, 814, 817, 858, 859, 871,

389, 401

Elephants, Indian, in Africa, 390

Eleusine coracana, " talabun " of Arabs, a
corn, 12, 74, 75, 100, 101, 142, 193, 206,
266, 277, 449

Elianga, vill. (4° 21" N. 32° 59° E.), 240,
204

Elminia Teresita, a bird, 366

Elyab, a Dinka tribe (6° 20' N. 31° 40
E.), 321

Emba, sta. (4° 40' N. 30° 9" E.), 874, 388

England, expected relief, 503, 509

Entada sudanica, a climbing shrub, order
Leguminosse, 53

sp., 318

Envamu, a nut, narcotic, 442

2. L:

 

INDEX AND

530
Equatorial Province, revenue, 421, 424);
taxation, 437; mismanagement at

Khartam, 425 ; suggested reforms, 425,
431 ; districts, 513

Eques, a butterfly, 20, 325

Equus Burchelli, 401

zebra, 401, 408

Eragrostis, a grass, 123

Ergugu, khor (mouth 2° 26' N. 32 12" E.),
36, 131, 134

Eriodendron, cotton-tree, 51, 275

Erra, khor (2° 9' N. 31° 15° E.), 149

Eruka, mt. (2° 100N. 81°10; E.), 148,
153, 157, 1867

Etheria, an oyster, 344, 850

Eucalyptus, 418

Euchlsena luxurians (Guatemala grass),
418

Euphorbia candelabrum, 8, 162

tirucalli, 174

venefica, 43, 71, 846

Euphorbias, 14, 18, 28, 109, 132, 145, 158,
213, 220, 242, 281,291, 206

Euplectes (widow-birds), 319, 394

flammiceps, 869

franciscanus (ignicolor), 802, 369

Eurostigma, a plant, 119

Eurystomus, roller (a bird), 394

Eyakke (4° 42 N. 82° 48' E.), 231

Eyupi, khor (mouth 8° 85° N, 82° 2' E.),
105, 106

 

 

 

 

 

Faro, vill. (8° 7' N, 32° 5 B.) 104, 144

Fabongo, vill. (2° 37" N. 81° 80° I.), 151,
162

Facher, mt. (8° 3" N. 83° 18"), 252, 2096

sta. (1b.) 429, 513

Fachors, vill. {2° 21" N. 82° 21" I.), 288

Fadibék, sta. (3° 81 N. 32° 41" E.), 247,
253, 267, 268, 206, 468

Fadiker, dist.(4° N. 82° 5 E.), 257

Fadl Allah's station, now Embe (4° 40'
N. 30° 9° B.), 874

Fadot, dist. (8° 33" N. 82° 15'.B.),.205

Fagak (Fagaki), vill, (2° 58° N. 81° 48'
E.), 144, 162

Fagango, on the Nile, above Widelai, 491

Faggara, khor (8° 85) N. 82° 389' W.), 254

Fagger, vill. (4° 1' N,. 32° 5 E.), 257, 297

Fagrinia, see Jeifi

Fajeld, district (4° 10' N. 31° E.) 301, 869

--- tribe of the Bari, 359, 881

Fajulli, sta. (3° N. 82° 54" E.), 250, 296,
415

 

Faki (Fakir), explanation of words, 522
Fallibek, sta. (8° 27' N. 82° 80° E.), 267,
269

Falogga, vill. (3° 43" N. 82° 54' E.), 246,
205

 

Faloro, vill. (3° 18" N. $1" 57' E.), 100

GLOSSARY.

Fandiker, vill (4°, 1 " E.;, 262,
297

Fanegoro, vill (2° 25 N. 31° 80' EB.), 151,
163

Fanioro, vill. (8 25 N, 82° 4'M.), 00

Fannegai, dist. (6° 53 N. 29° 12 E.), 342

Fanto, vill. (3° 32 N. 82° 29 E.), 265, 266

Fanyiquara, dist. (4° 8° N. 32° 8' F.), 256,
262, 207

Fanyuamori, vill.;(2" 14 N. 91° 22° Bj,
151, 163, 185

Faomo, vill. (3° 10' N. 82° 2 F.), 105

Faqueri, zer. (8° 5 N. 82° 5 E.), 106

Faé‘zEZOngo, mt. (3~8' N. 33°10 .), 2498

7

Farajok, sta. (3° 40' N. 82° 32 E.), 254,
267, 297

Faranka, dist. (2° 50'.N. 82° 20' E.)

Faratjell, or Farchel, sta. (2° 82 N. 28°
17" E.), 251, B18

Faroketo, . dist. (2° $0' N. 31° 30 .B.),
145, 191

Farshile, see Fashelu

Farukh (Arabic), gun-boy, p. 409, or a
mercenary

Fashelu (Farshile, Baker's Ibrahimiya)
(3° 35 N. 82° 10° E.), 255, 263,'264, 429

Fashoda, town (9° 55 N. 32° 15" E.), 71,
432, 483, 470, 485, 493

Fatanga, vill. (2° 455 N. 88° 7", E.), 259,
269

Fatiri, mt. (2° 85 N. 32° 30' E.), 279

Fatiko, sta, (8° 2" N. 32° 20° E.), 106, 109,
276

Fauvel, vill. (8° 5 N, 82°17" E.), 109

Fauver (Fawor of our map, 7° 27" N. 80°
45 E.), 321

Fauvera, Sta. (2° 12' N,; 82° 85'.E.), 13720]
280, 281, 468

Fedwin, dist. (6° 50' N. 29° 155 E.), 342

Fejau, vill. (2° 10' N. 81° 40' E.), 139

Felis caligata (booted lynx), 223

caracal, L. (the Caracal), 332

maniculata, Riipp. (Nubian cat), 382!

Serval, Schreb. (bush cat of Cape),

3

 

 

 

22
Ferial, vill. (6°.82' N. 29° 42' B.), 838
Feriak, vill., near Bor, 228
Ferns, see Asplenium
Ficus (fig-tree), 40, 107, 314, 398, 418
Ficus glumosa, Deb., 119
fessoglensis, Ky., 119
lutea, 173, 517
Figs, 418 |
Filaria medinensis (Guinea-worm}), 33, 347.
Finches (Fringillidse), 12, 13, 101, 300;

319; see also Habropyga, Astrilda,!

Ortygospiza, Sporothlastes, Pytelia,

Pyrenestes, Spermestes, Urseginthus,

Zonogastris |

 

 

A
¥

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Fischer, Dr. G. A. (in 1882-83 he pene-
trated through the Masai country to
Lake Naiwasha ; in 1885-86 he led an
expedition for the relief of Emin Pasha,
but only reached Kavirond. He died
Nov. 11, 1886), 494, 504

Fishes, migration of, 64, 170, 396 ; see
also Aulacodus, Chromis, Clarias, Pro-
topterus *

Fishing, 14, 15, 175, 326

Fleas, 23 .,

Flies (Diptera), 436

Fly-catcher, see Musicapa, Terpsiphone,
Campephaga

Fodi (Foda), dist. and sta. (2° 15 N. 32°
17' E.), 286, 513

Foki, mt. (4° 3" N. 31° 56' E.), 260

Folk-lore, in Unyéro, 93-96

Foquate, dist, (2° 40' N, 31° 28" E.), 151

Fora, mt. (5° 19' N. 30° 50' E.), 857

Forests, geographical distribution of, 403

Forficula (earwig), 334

Fowls, 188, 286, 305, 814, 345, 371

Francolins, 273, 280, 310

Francolinus Grantei, Hartl., 399

Fringillid&, see Finches

Frogs, 1837, 228

Fukara, plural of fakir (q. v.)

Funambulus (a squirrel), 227

Fundi, a freed slave

Fungi, 184, 310

Funotar, khor (3° 20' N. 32° 43" E.), 248

GaparEer (14° N. 35° 35 E.), 373, 449

Gadda, river (mouth 3° 40° N. 28° E.),
191, 445

Galago senegalensis (a Lemur), 200, 435

Gallabas (Jellabas), merchants, slave-
dealers, 458, 481

" Gallery " woods, 22, 187, 188, 194, 379,
389, 444, 521

Gambalagala, country (0° 20' N. 30° 20'
E.), 92

Gambari (a Monbuttu chief of Kubi, in
Monbuttu, detained a prisoner during
two years in the Bahr-el-Ghazal, until

- liberated by Emin Pasha), 204, 205,
315, 322, 445, 446

Gando, sta. (7° 40' N. 27° E.), 458

Gangezi, dist. (1° 30' N. 31° 45 E.), 97

Gango, sta, (2° 45 N. 29° 2" E.), 191, 450

Gani, i.e., country of the Wagani or

Garagir, nickname of the Monbuttu, 212

Gardenias (order Rubiaces), 309, 350, 400

Gasaui, vill. (2° 6' N. 32° 32" E.), 282

Geese, 299, 345 ; see also Chenalopex, geese

Geisi, mt. (1° 59' N. 31° 50' E.), 138

Gel (lower Taffari, mouth 6° 28" N. 31°
40' E.), 307

 

531

Geli, khor (4° 15" N. 30° 38" F.), 868, 370

Gebbero _ (Sidama), people, in S. Abys-
sinia, 512

Genet, 200, 332

Georychus (mole-mouse), 828, 375

Gessi Pasha, 512

Ghatal, mt. (4° 21' N. 83° 2' E.), 240, 294

Ghattas, a Coptic merchant of Schwein-
furth's time

Giegler Pasha, 433, 434, 457

Qikkor, hill (3° 6' N. 38° 56' F.), 250, 296

Gimiro's village (3° 2' N. 32° 20' KE.), 109

Ginetti, Kanieti, or Chol, khor (4° 52' N.
82° 53° K.), 221, 222, 201

Gipsies in Unyéro, 40

Giraffes, 221, 222, 401, 403

CGirata, tribe (5° N. 34° 50° B.), 512

Goats, 138, 150, 152, 178, 226, 286, 871

Goatsucker (bird), see Caprimulgus

CGoddn (4° 12° N. 31° G' B.), 361

Gok, tribe (7° N. 29° E.}, 342

Gok-el-Hassan (Lang, Defa'allah's or
Sherifi's), sta. (7° 2" N. 28° 57' E.}, his-
tory, 344, 453

Goll, the east arm of the Ayi, 321

Gollolindu (Mirshuk), khor (4° 45 N.
32° 2 E.), 216

Golunda pulchella (mouse), 367

Goma, mt. T' N. 82% 89° E.), 248,
273, 277

Gondokéro (4° 54' N. 31° 49' E.), 522 ;
reoccupied 1878, 214, 483

Gonge, dist. (6° 8' N. 30° 15 E.), 321

Goose, knob-billed (Sarcidiornis melano-
tus), 233 ; see also Geese

Gordon Pasha, vii., 2, 25, 50, 269, 467,
482, 496, 504, 509

Gosa, sta. (5% T' N. 20° 80' F.),.986

Goshawk (Astur polyzonus), 142 ; see also
Astur, Asturinula, Melierax

Gourds, 40, 75 ; see also Helmia

Graeculus, see Cormorant

Grant, Colonel, his botanical collection,
399

Grass-fires, 341, 351

Grasshoppers, 56, 276

Grewia mollis, a shrub, order Liliace®,
104, 182, 291

Grosbeak, see Crithagra

Ground-nut (Arachis hypogsea), 149, 326,
832, 352, 424

Guatemala grass, see Euchlsena

Guavas, 424, 457

Guereza (monkey), see Colobus

Gueri, sta. (6° 10 N. 29° 44" E.), 350

Guinea-fowl, 34

Guinea-worm, (Filaria medinensis), 33,
347

Gullo, khor (5° 32" N. 80° 6' E.), 354

Gulmar, khor, see Chongo

532

Gumbir!, sta, (4° 11 N. 81° 4 E.), 361

Gurarisi, a banana grove (2° 12 N. 832°
27' E.), 134

Gurmro, dist, (6° 22' N. 29° 20' E.), 348

Gurguru, nickname of the Monbuttu,
513; Arab name of the mudirié of
Rol, 322

Gurken, mt. (6° 11' N. 29° 49 E.), 826,
328, 350

Gura, vil (0° 519m. S881" EJ, 87,

130
Gurud, khor (5° 33' N. 30° 39' E.), 810
Gynandropsis, plant, order
145, 313, 320
Gypogeranus - serpentarius
bird), 402

(Secretary-

HasBroryaa (a finch), 56

Hailstorm in Unyéro, 63

Halanga, mt. (3° 586° N. 83° 5'B.) 205,
242

Halcyon semiczerulea (a kingfisher), 227,

senegalensis, 227

Haliaétus vocifer (an osprey), 145, 280,
326, 343

Hamgurko, vill, (1° 10' N. 30° 26' E.),
179, 507

Hamis-bin-Holfin, 498

Hannington, Bishop, 516

Hansal, Consul, 496, 504

Hares, 61

Harogo, dist. (3° 40' N. 34° 10' E.), 241,
295

Hassin Aga, 479

Ajib (emissary of Keremallah), 475

Bey Ibrahim, 413

Hat-el-Istiva (Equatorial Province), g. v.

Hauchu, khor (4° 20' N. 31° 27' E.), 360

Harok, see Elanus, Chelidopteryx, Nisus,
Spizaétus

Helmia bulbifera (a gourd), 74, 80, 266,
288, 365, 870, 449

Helotarsus ecaudatus, Daud. (a kite), 402

Hemipode, see Turnix

Herminiera, see Ambaj

Herons, 289, 292, 144 ; see also Ardea,
Bubuleus, Tantalus

Herpestes fasciatus (Zebra ichneumon),
832, 310

Heuglin, 398

Hexalobus (senegalensis), a tree, 399

Hibiscus (a mallow), 99, 101, 183

cannabinus, 266, 320

esculentus (" bamia ") 149

Sabdariffa, 300, 349, 474, 506

Hicks, General, 463

Hides, how dressed, 81

Himantopus autumnalis, Hass. (a bird),

o

395

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Hippopotamus, 12, 74, 77, 127, 136, 144,
162, 302, 327, 314

coun

Hofrat-en-Nahas (8° 45" N, 24° 5 E.), 486 _

Holy Cross, miss. sta. (6° 46 N. 31° 13"
E.), 522

Honey, 75, 283, 105, 268

Honey-guide, see Indicator

Hoopoe, see Irrisor, Upupa

Hoplopterus (speciosus), a plover, 300

Hornbill, see Buceros

Horo, khor (4° 88! N. 29° 53" RJ, 878

Hot springs, 158 ; on Lake Albert (2° 5
N. 31° 10' E.), 158 ; on Asua river, 264 ;

>

Labilla, 158; Rillek, 158; at Kibiro,
L177

Hotterié, a "band" (" coterie") of Dan-
agla, i.¢., slave-hunters

Humboldtia, 310, 350

Hunchbacks, 64

Hunting-trophies, 394

Hysenas, 99, 223, 233, 264, 281,353 ; fight-
ing lions, 279 ; see also Lycaon pictus

Hyas segyptiacus, a plover, the "eroco-
dile's friend," 4

Hydrocyon, a fish, 175

Hydrotragus Spekii (an antelope), 121

Hyphzene thebaica, Mav., see Dum-palm

Hyphantica sethiopica, Sund. (a bird), 393

erythrops, 176

Hyphantornis (weaver-bird), 146, $19,
394

 

 

abyssinica, 173, 183
dinidiata, 167
guerini, 875
ocularis, 404

-- Spekei, 245
Hypoxis, see Lakorta

 

 

 

Hyptis, an oil-plant, order Labiatse, 309, |

352

spicigera, 327

Hyrax, coney, 2, 240, 326

Hystrix, a porcupine ("nonda "), 396

 

IBIALA, khor (4° 10° N. 33° 8' E.), 240
Ibi, dist. (8° 52" N. 31° 58" E.), 262
Ibis, bird, 4

Ibrahim Aga, 465, 466, 469
Ibrahimya, see Fashelu

Ichneumons, 227 ; see also Herpestes

Iddio, a division of the Zand, also known

as Makrakd4, 508
Ifuddu, mt. (4° 15 N. 32° 48" E.); 256
Igeri, khor (mouth 3° 23" N. 32° 5 E.), 99
Tkoto, dist, (4° 10 N. 83" 10' E.), 241
Ikwa, Wando's son, 451
Iladze, khor (8° 20' N. 82° 5 E.), 99
Imudt, vill. (6° 27" N. 20° 1 y*omy 24"
Indiarubber, see Carpodinus

Indicator Sparmanni, white-eared honey - |

guide, 307

INDEX AND GLOSSARY,

ITpomcea, a convolvulus, 7, 12, 862

Irari, khor (mouth 8° 23 N. 52° 5 H.), 99

Irenga, Renga, or Arenga, dist. (14° 40' N.
33° 20' K.), 238, 241, 269, 298, 415

Irkabwe, native name of tobacco, 31, 77

vill. (0° 82° 33' E.), 87

Iron ores, 201, 291, 824, 382 ; smelters,
25; trade, 122

Irrisor erythrorhynchus, Lath., red-billed
wood-hoopoe, 315, 361

Trume, khor (4° 17' N. 83° 3' E.), 240

Islam, made no progress, 414

Ispidina picta (a bird), 245

Isu or Echu, river (4° 35' N. 29° 12' E.),
383

Iti, khor (3° 48' N. 32° 5 E.), 262

Itiaga, hill (3° 50' N. 832° 3' E.), 262

Ito, khor (5° 17' N. 30° 44' E.), 807, 857 ;
see also Labikko

Ittatok, mt. (4° 40° N. 82° 50' E.), 232, 292

Ivory, 117, 251, 268, 269

 

JaBaKOot (2° 15' N. 31° 2' E.), 151, 152

Jacana (bird), see Parra

Jale, dist. (2° 35' N. 83° 15 E.), 251

Jamma, hill (3° 50' N. 32° 50° E.), 255

Janda (Ganda), sta. (3° 27" N. 30° 58' E.),
195, 363

Jangbi, vill. (3° 85 N.

Jange, see Dinka

Jatropha manihot, L., see Manioc

Jebel (Gebel), Arabic, mountain

Jeifi, mt. (Fagrinia), sta. (3° 26' N. 32°
&' E.), 11, 99

Jellabas (gallabas), traders, 458, 481

Jemid, vill. (6° 30' N. 30° 30° E.), 317, 320

Jer, dist. (6° 30' N. 29° 16 E.), 346

Jinja ("stones") or Ripon Falls (0° 22'
N. 33° 30' E.), 398

Jirri, dist, (6° 20' N. 29° 47' E.), 329

Jombi, vill. (6° 55" N. 29° 4' E.), 345

Jondi, vill. (3° 14' N. 28° 40" E.), 190

Joro, vill. (6° 2" N. 29° 49' E.), 328

Jot, sta, (6° 55' N. 20° 8' K.), 342

Jubba, vill. (5° 4' N. 31° 13' E.), 302, 304

Julu, mt. (3° 2' N. 32° 20° E.), 109, 272

mt. (3° 46' N. 32° 57' E.), 246

Junker, Dr., 181, 200, 421, 451, 454, 460
(arrived at Lado, January 1884), 464,
465, 473, 474, 476, 477, 479 (arrived
at Aufina's), 485, 491, 493, 494, 498,
499 (departed for Uginda), 502

Jur Ghattas, sta. (7° 16' N. 28° 32° E.),
430, 457, 469, 486

32° 4]' E.), 247

 

KaBarv, vill. (0° 49' N. 32° 32 E.) 39

Kabayendi, vill. (4° 28" N. 30° 8' E.), 873,
374, 466

Kabiggo, hot springs (1° 45 N. 31° 20'
E.), 177

 

398

Kabréga, biographical notice, 516 ; char-

acter, 61, 62 ; audience, 60, 64, 68, 69 ;
negotiations, 472, 486-490, 492, 494,
499, 501; invites author, 438 ; his
capital, 81, 112

Kabrogeta, khor (1° 27" N. 81° 85 B.),
70

Kabuli, khor (2° 12' N. 32° 33" E.), 279,
280

Kachoro, brook, near Kibero, 183

Kadabo, a Monbuttu chief (2° 48" N. 29°
E.), 205, 446

Kadenokoka (Kittagong) (4° 38' N. 32°
18" K.), 921

Kadwe (Kadue), khor, or Kirinion (4°
48' N. 81° 57' E.), 289, 215

Kaggnpt‘eria, L., a genus of Zingiberaces,

3

Kafali, khor (4° 88" N. 32° 18" E.), 221

Kafatasi (1° 48" N. 30° 45 W.), 151

Kaffa, country, south of Abyssinia, 415

Kaffai, mt. (4° 11' N. 529° 88" E.), 255

Kati, Ihor (mouth, 1° 59' N. B.),
50

Kagei (Kagehyi), on south shore of Vice-
toria Lake (2° 22' 8. 38° 20" E.), 116

Kagoro, chief of Kibiro, 171

Kabura, dist. (0° 59' N. 32° 30° E.), 31,
131

Kairira, river (source 0° 48' N. 82° 30'
E.), 46, 130

Kakibi, river, 507 ; see Dueru

Kajumbo, mt. (4° 48' N. 32° 10' E.), 217,
290

Kaka, mt. (seen from near Fatiko), 277

Kakuak, dist, and tribe (3° 50' N. 30°
50° E.), 862, 863, 867, 871

Kalavinya, mt. (seen from near Fatiko),
277

Kalika, mt. (0° 35K. 82° 83' E.), 129

dist. and tribe (3° N. 30° 50' E.),

144; physique, dress, 364
sta. (Kibi), (2° 55 N. 30°58 E.),

64

 

 

Kamari, vill., near Wandi, 481
Kambo, a tuber, 423
Kamisoa, Rionga's successor, 485, 486,

Kampodi, a charm in Ugdnda, 47

Kamrasi, biographical notice, 516

Kanagurba, chief, 134

Kanakok, mt. (2° 58" N, 82° 255 H.), 277

Kandubituyu, rivulet (0° 20' N. 82° 38"
E.), 48

Kanga, sta. (4° 42" N. 29° 82" E.), 380

Kangara, vill. (2° 8' N. 31° 44" E.), 139

Kanieti, khor, see Ginetti

Kanna, a Zanda chief (2° 52" N. 27° 32,
E.), 445, 454

zor. (5° 10' N. 29° 8° E.), 288, 468

 

534

Kantar, a weight (about two hundred-
weight), 374

Kapeki, vill (0° 57' N. 82° 42° B.), 86,
131

Karagwa, country (capital 1° 43' S. 31°
5' E.), 68, 489 I

Karaibote, wells (6° 27" N. 29° 17'°E.),
347

Karro, vill. (6° 18" N. 29° 42' E.), 850

Karsita, vill. (2° 6° N. 32° 80 E.), 282

Kasegu, chief, 131

Kagidie, vill, (0° 28' N, 82° 40 E.), 46

Kasuba, khor (4° 45 N. 82° E.), 215

Kasvar, district in Lur, see Msvar

Katagrua, Kabréga's prime minister, 59,
60, 62, 63

Katiga, vill. (4° 82' N. 82° 52" F.), 285

Kawa, town (14° N. 82° 45 E.), 485,
493

Kayala, a palm grove (4° 57' N. 32° 30'
E.), 224, 228

Keder4, tribe and sta. (5° 11' N. 80° 33'
E.), 806-309, 356 ; physique, 309 ;
dress, 309 ; houses, 307 ; graves, 856 ;
hunting-trophies, 356

Kediba, vill. (5° 18' N. 80° 53" E.), 806,
387

Kela, hill (3° 52' N. 33° 3° E.), 243, 205

Kele, mt., or Yalani (4°: 18'. N. 81% 47
E.), 6

Kembe, khor (3° 48 N. 30° 53" E.), 366

Keniy, mt. (4° 10' N. 81° E.), 361

Keuus, dist. on the Nile, 25° 20° N.;
Kenusi, a native of Kenus, 468

Kenyi, chief, 485

Kenyimasa, vill. (5° 49! N. 30° 19' E.),
355

Kerbolong, vill." (418
361

Kerefi; vill. (5° 57 N. 34°58 R:));257,
297

Keremallah, the representative of the
Mahdi, 462, 463, 467-471, 473, 475,
476, 478, 480, 482, 484, 505 (his
death)

Keremu, vill. (6° 3' N. 30° 3" E.), 324

Kero, mt. (4° 18" N. 80° 28" E.), 8361

Kharif (Arabic), rainy season, autumn

Khartim, mt., see Nyedi

Khartim, town (15° 87" N. 82°
432, 476, 482

Khaya-tree, 247, 261

"Khedive," steamer, 140, 491, 493

Kheran, plural of khor (g. ¥.)

Khofir, mt. (4° 6' N. 83° 11' E.), 241, 295

Khor (plural kheran), Arabic, ravine,
torrent-bed, torrent, and in the Sudan
also perennial stream

Khor-et-tin (loamy torrent) (3° 18' N.
32° 7' E.), 110

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Khor-et-tin, or Loreza (3° 40' N. 82° E.), 8

or Berr (4° 57' N, 31°80 E.), 801

Kibali,| 439, 441,0450,0450);. also
Welle

Kibboia, a plant, 347

Kibi, head-stream of the Welle (3° N.
30° 50' E.), 187

Kibiro, vill. (1° 455 N. 81° 20' E.), 172,
175 ; salt manufacture, 176 ;; hot
springs, 177

Kich, tribe (6° 50 'N. 80° 50 'E.), 820, 522

Kidi, see Umiro

Kifa, a Zand chief, 421

Kigelia, a tree, order Bignonies, 110,
265, 291, 301, 363

Kija, int. (3° N. 82° 19 E.), 272

Kijgjlia, vill. "(2.0 -N. 82° 40}
98%

Kijeveka, vill. (1° 38 N. 31° 55 E.), 72

Kikinda, vill. (1° 28 N. 31° 85" E.), 70

Kikunguru, dist. (1° 55 N; 82°40 ° EB.),
282

Kilio, mt. (4° 28" N. 32° 45" E.), 284,
292

 

Kilive, khor (3° 56' N. 81° 56" E.), 260
Killa, rock (5° 26" N,. 30°27" B.), 855
Kimanya, vill. (1° 40' N. 31° 37' E.), 53, 71
Kimil, khor (3° 48' N. 30° 54' E.\, 366
Kindar, khor (4° 9' N. 81° E.), 362
Kingfisher, see Ceryle, Halcyon, Dacelo
" Kinyabantu," an anthropoid ape, 399
Kioga, lake (1° 30" N. 82° 50° E.), 282
Kiotosi, vill. (1° 20' N. 32° 22" E.), 134
Kirembwe, vill. (0° 45 N. 32° 86" E.), 41
Kirt (4° TSN, $1%40' R.}, 15; 156,518
Kirinion, khor, see Kadwe
Kirk, Sir John, 495, 496
Kiroto, sta, (2° N. 81° 58' B.), 19, 188,
146
Kirshambe, khor (5° 40° N. 31° 55 E.),
229

Kisra (Arabic), durrah pancake, 456

Kisuga, vill. (1° 45 N. 32° ¥ E.), 24, 50,
61, 72, 122

Kitakuba, vill. (0° 36" N. 82° 50" E.) 45

Kitara, vill. (0° 55 N. 32° 30' E.), 13

Kite, see Helotarsus, Milvus

Kiteng, mt. (3° 40' N. 33° 40 EF.), 249

Kiti, vill. (0° 27' N. 32° 39" E.), 47

mt. (0° 27"N,32%40 E.}, 129

Kitongali, vill. (1° 33" N. 31° 36 E.), 55, 70

Kittagong (Kadenokoka) (4° 38' N. 32°
18 E.), 221

Kituanga, vill. (2° 40 N. 32° 14' E.), 138

Kiza, chief, 23

Kobbo, khor (4° 10' N. 30° 37" E.), 368

Koch (Koki), vill, (2° 5 N. 32°86 E.),
136, 231

Koche (Koshe or Koshi), dist, (2° 45! N.
31° 25' E.}, 97, 143

 

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY. 5353

Koda, khor (5° N. 81° 23' E.), 302, 306

Koddu, dist. (6° 8' N. 20° 44' E.), 351

Koja, dist. (0° 12" N. 32° 48' E.), 127

" Kojur," magician or rainmaker among
the Dinka

Koka, vill. (4° 57" N. 81° 42" E.), 300

Koki (Koch), vill. of Shu@li (2° 46' N. 32
28" E.), 276, 278; see also Koch

EKokmiria, vill. (2° N. 32° 10' E.), 188

Kokobere, khor (5° 48 N. 30° 22' E.), 318

Kola-nut, 442, 199, 207

Koliang, dist. (3° 5 N. 84° 10 E.), 252,
296

Kolomello, cave (4° 40' N. 32° 10' E.), 219

Konae, vill. (2° 47' N. 83° 6' E.), 251

Kongoro, khor (4° N. 30° 55 E.), 362

Kordofan (13° N. 31° E.), 393, 394, 522

Koro, vill. (2° 45 N. 32° 29' E.), 278

Korobe, mt. (3° 53' N. 80° 59' K.), 362

(Korobék ?), sta. (3° 47' N. 30° 55
E.), 362, 513

Korola, mt. (4° 42" N, 82° 15 E.), 221

mt. (4° 48" N, 32° 26" E.), 221

Korova, khor (2° 23' N. 32° 28" E.), 279

Koshe (Koshi), see Koche

Koyo, vill. (6° 17' N. 29° 42" E.), 350

Koz, khor (4° 42' N. 32° 43' K.), 231, 232,
234, 236, 239-241, 2901, 292, 294

Krafa, khor (4° 89" N. 29° 58" E.), 380

Kubi, sta. (3° 11' N, 28° 41' E.), 315

Kubia, vill. (2° 3° N. 31° 52 E.), 139

Kuchuk Ali, zer. (7° 80' N. 28° E.), 469

Kudurma, vill. (4° 42' N. 29° 47' E.), 380,
466, 471

Kuerkuit, or Loka, mt. (4° 16" N. 31° 2
E.), 361

Kuftan (Arabic), a coat of light mate-
rial

Kuitu, hills (3° 55° N. 31° 53° E.), 258,
259, 297

Kuji, dist, (4° 55 N. 31° 48" E.), 300

Kuka, in Bornu (12° 50' N. 13° 30 E.), 441

Kuku, mts. (3° 40' N. 31° 50' E.), 6, 7, 9,
140

Kuluken, khor (3° 43' N. 32° 12" E.), 263

Kunuf, mt. (4° 53' N. 31° 33' E.), 300

Kurdu, mt. (3° 40' N. 32° E.), 9

Kurja, mt. (3° 56' N. 30° 27 E.), 362

Kurpio, khor (4° 23' N. 30° 15 K.), 372

Kuron, dist, and mt. (3° 55 N. 33° 383" E.),
241, 249, 293, 415

Kuryok, mt. (5° 9" N. 30° 41' E.), 357

Kyago, mt. (4° 24' N, 31° 80' E.), 360

Kyai, khor (1° 37" N. 31° 10' E.), 59, 60,
65, 70

Kyapisi, mt. (0° 38" N. 32° 40" E.), 44

Kyatangura, vill. (3° 24' N. 32° 40' E.),
272

 

 

Kyelamir, mt. (4° 33' N. 33° E.), 242
Kyente, hill, at Kibiro, 175

 

Kyero, vill. (5° 27" N. 29° 48" F.), 353

Kyikasa, vill. (0° 40' N. 32° 40" E.), 42

Kyivambiri, mt. (1° 20' N. 32° 30° E.),
29

LaBtko, khor (5° 20' N. 80° 36, E.), 856

Labikko, khor (5° 25 N. 80° 45 E.), so
called, but really the Ito, 308

Labilla, mt. (Abu Sala) (3° 21' N. 82° 13"
E.), 158, 262

Labongo, dist. (3° 20' N. 82° 40' E.), 247,
272, 296

or Fabongo, in Shali (2° 37" N. 31°

30' E.), 272 ; see also Bongo

Labgge, . E.). 7; 17;

DJ a

Laburomor, mt. (3° 45 N. 82° 50' E.), 246

Lado, sta. (5° L' N4 81° B.), 1, 487
(drought), 453 (flooded), 456, 458, 464
(burnt), 472 (fortified), 480 (dissatis-
faction), 482 (council of war, April), 488
(besieged), 495, 500 (mutiny), 510 (eva-
cuated) 513

Lafit, mts. (4° 54' N. 32° 45 E.), 219, 231,
235, 242, 202

Lagonosticta rufopicta, a finch, 56, 174

Lakorta-tree (Schnizleinia [Hypoxis] sp.
n.), 241, 274, 418

Lalak, mt. (3° 37" N. 82° 48" E.), 246, 247,
249, 254, 255

Lamellicornis (a beetle), 146 .

Lamo, mt. (3° 42' N. 82° 55" E.), 246, 249,
255, 295

Lamprocolius chaleurus, glossy thrush,
258

Landolphia florida, Bth. (yields caout-
choue), 443

Lang, sta., see Gok-el-Hassan

Langa, khor (4° 88' N, 29° 58" E.), 380

Langara, vill. (4° 37" N. 29° 49' E.), 380

Langia (8° 48" N. 82° 58" E.) 248, 246,
295

Ldngo, tribe (2° 30' N. 32° 30' E.), charac-
ter, 21 ; language, 296 ; frisures, 142,
296 ; houses, 288 ; domestic animals,
391 ; the country, 250, 296, 400

Langomeri, vill. (3° 49' N. 30° 45 E.),
366

Langora, mt. (83° 55 N. 33° 5 K.), 242

Languello, hill (3° 15 N. 32° 48" E.), 249,
252

Languerion (3° 42" N. 32° 28" E.), 267

Lanius gubernator, a shrike, 366

Lapwing, see Lobivanellus, Sarciophorus,
Vanellus

Lara, peak (3° 46' N. 33° E.), 246

Larema, vill, (3° 7' N. 32° 56' E.), 250

Larogoi, old Nile bed (8° 7' N. 31° 35°
E.), 161

Laterite, 521

 

536

Lathyrus, a pea, 181

Latinoto {8° 48" H.), 254

Latjiet, mt. (8°, 82" N, 32° 42' E.), 246,
247, 255, 267

vill. (8? 17 N. 82°. 85 £.), 278

Latome, chief of Loronio, 232, 233

Latauka, tribe (4° 30' N. 83° E.), 224-226,
229, 230, 233-239 ; physique, 286, 293 ;
disproportion of sexes, 226 ; original
seats, 242; language, 289, 242, 298 ;
tribal marks, 225, 2387 ; dress and or-
naments, 225, 235 ; villages, 224, 226,
2838 ; a funeral, 280 ; women, 229 ;
occupations, 224, 225, 237, 288, 202 ;
amulets, 230, 2385 ; features of the
country, 292 ; evacuation, 468, 513

Lau, khor (5° 35 N. 29° 42" B.), 858

vill. (6° 43' N. 30° 28" E.), 820

Lands, dist. (4° 20' N. 32% 10 E.), 229,
231

Lavalong, mt. (4° 16" N. 32° 57' E.), 240

Layima, vill. (3°]' N. 32° 385 H.), 273

Lawsonia, plant, 252

inermis, 401

Lazimon, khor (3° 10' N. 32° 2" EB.), 104

Lebbii, khor (3° 50' N. 32° E.), 262

Ledovan, mt., see Shua

Legiri, mt. (near Lotese), 240

Lekebe, khor (3° 30' N. 30° 58" E.), 863

Lemis, vill. (2° 57" N,. 80° 57 -B.), 864

Lemons, sweet, 363, 373 ; see also Citrus

Lemuridge, 397 ; see also Otolienus, Galago

Léndu, dist. (2° 20' N. 80° 50 E.), 143,
153, 1067

Lenga-Lenga, vill. (3° 3' N.; 32° 30' S.),
275

Lenz, Dr., 505

Leopards, 101, 110, 124, 228, 245,260,
265, 281

Lepidosiren, see Protopterus

Leptadenia pyrotechnica, Dne., a resinous
shrub, 401

Leptoptilus
stork

Lere, hill (3° 27" N. 32° 3" E.), 98

-- swamp (5° 7' N. 81° 12' E.), 306

Lerme (6° 45 N. 29° 36' E.), 334

Leruama, mt. (8° 9' -N. 32° 57' E.), 249,
252, 296

Lesi, tribe (5° 55° N. 29°50 H.), 325
327

Leundi, dist. (Londa? c. 1° 45 N. 30°
E.), 508

Liena, vill. (5° 87' N. 81° 58' E.), 228

Liggi, tribe (4° 40' N. 30° 30° E.), 369

Lila or Gulmar, khor (6% 42" 12"
E.), 345, 348

Lili, peak (4° 48" N. 32° 8" H.)}, 216

Fimur, khor:(87 ;40' N. 32°82 .), 254,
207

 

 

 

Marabou

crumenifer, see

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY,

Linant de Bellefonds, E. (son of Linant
Pasha, visited Mtésa, 1875, and there
met Stanley ; was killed after return,
August 1875), 44, 129

Lions, 101, 2283, 228, 2383, 245, 265, 279,
202, 209, 849, 352

Lira, dist. and mt. (2° 46' N. 33° 5 E.),
251, 269

-- vill, (8° 9 N. 82° 58" F.), 249

Lirem (Lorem), dist. and sta. (30° N. 83'
45 E.), 244. 252,996, 415

Liria, tribe (4° 37" N. 32° 15 E.), 219,
220, 289, 201

Lizards, 332 ; see also Varan

Loa, khor (5° 18" N. 80° 40° E.), 857

Loba, dist. (6° 48" N. 29° E.), 293, 345

Lobalede, sta. (6° 23" N. 29° 28 E.), 348

Lobbor, country (2° 20° N. 83° 20° E.)]
251, 252, 415, 428

Lobivanellus senegalensis, a lapwing, 141,
280

Lobull, mts. (4° N. 32° 45" E.), 254, 255

Loddo, khor (4° 40' N. 32° 20" E.), 221,
229, 291

Lodin, peak (4° 40° N. 32° 58" E.), 292

Lodio, tat. (4° 40' N. 82° 58 E.), 242

Lofurri, hill (3° 49' N. 82° 8" E.), 262

Lofuta, dist. (5° 4' N. 31° 12" E.), 302

Logere, mts. (4° 20' N. 33° 12 E.), 238,
292

Loggede, vill. (3° 48' N. 83° E.), 246 *

Loggolum, dist. (2° 58' -N. 82° 25 EK.),
277

Logguren, see Loguren

Logiteli, hill (3° 49' N. 3° 30' E.), 246

Logo, tribe and dist. (3° N. 30° E.), 186,
199, 865, 449, 456

, sta. (3° 10" N. 30° 5" E.), 439

Lohe, mt. (4° 32% N. 32° 18 E.), 218

Loka, mt. (4° 16" N. 31° 2" E.), 361 ; see
Kuerkuit

Lokalla, mt. 3° 55 N. 82° 15" H.), 255

Lokoya, mts. (4° 40' N. 32° 5' BH.), 284,
259, 290

Loligono, mt. (5° 2" N., 82° 219,
292

 

Lomario, khor (5° 55 N. 80° 23" E.), 819

Lombo, a tuber, 865 ; see Kambo

Lomu, range (4° 4' N. 33° 10' E.), 240,
242, 294

Londd, dist. and sta, (1° 41' N. 31° 52
E.), ga, 81, 78, 184 aq

in «Laur: (1% 40" N, 30°20 EJ),
154, 168

Long-claw, see Macronyx

Longobo, mt. (4° 43' N. 82° 3" E.), 216

Longolet or Ongolet (4° 40° N. 32° 48'
E.), 234

Lophira, a tree, order Dipterocarpes, 208

Loppolo, khor (3° 53' N. 38° 5" E.), 248

 

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Loranthus (mistletoe), 275

Lodafe, pool (4° 3" N. 831° 22" E.), 859

Loreza (Khor-et-tin) (3° 40' N. 32° E.), 8

Lori, dist, (6° 20° N. 20° 35 E.), 349,
352

 

vill. (5° 40' N. 29° 45" E.), 352
Loriajo, vill. (4° 86' N. 32° 50° E.), 234,
293

TLoron, chief of Gondokéro, 215, 458

Loronio, vill. (4° 40' N. 32° 47' E.), 224,
232, 233, 201, 202

Lotese, mt. (4° 20' N. 32° 51' E.), 240

Loto, dist. (3° 7' N. 32° 56 E.), 250

Lotortioni, khor (4° 19' N. 31° 25 E.), 360

Lottor, chief of Latika, 223

Lourdel, Catholic missionary, 495

Lubari, tribe (2° 50' N. 31° E.), 148, 153,
364, 365

Lubia, Arab name for the Vigna sinensis

(g. v.

Lubwa, vill. (0° 25 N. 33° 30' E.), 516

Luggar (Dr. Junker's) (3° N. 30° 20' E.),
364

Lukomukui, swamp (5° 18 N. 30° 57
E.), 306

Lulunyi, swamp (6° 19' N. 29° 40° E.),
349

Lumoga, mt. (3° 55" N. 32° 46' E.), 254,
268

Lungudi, vill. (3° 255 N. 32° 42" E.), 271

Lunn, khor (3° 57' N. 80° 55 E.), 362, 363

Lupton-Bey (arrived at Lado September
1879, and was appointed Governor of
Bahr-el-Ghazal in 1881 ; he surrendered
to the Mahdi), 405, 430, 437, 451, 453,
455, 457, 458, 462, 463, 465, 467, 476,
512

Loar, or Alar, tribe (2° N. 31° E.), 148-45,
148-50, 154-55 ; language, 143, 150 ;
dress, 143 ; weapons, 155; filing teeth
and tattooing, 154 ; houses, 144, 145,
148, 163 ; granaries, 149 ; matrimonial,
155; burial, 155 ; women, 149 ; chiefs,
154 ; fishing, 149 ; features of the
country, 15, 143

Luri, khor (4° 55 N. 31° 47 E.), 361

Lurja, mt. (4° 25" N. 31° 25 E.), 859

Luscinia philomela, Bechst. (nightingale),
395

Lutomba, vill. (3° 2" N. 30° 43' E.), 386

Lutra (otter), 121, 382

inunguis, 95 s

Luttu, hill (5° 2" N. 30° 43" E.), 386

Lwal, vill. (6° 22" N. 30° 47' K.), 321

Lycaon pictus (hyzena dog), 401

Lynx, see Felis caracal, Felis caligata

 

MaBISANGA, tribe, see Abisanga
Mabode, tribe (2° N. 28° E.), 197, 203,
416

 

337

Mabollo, swamp (6° 19" N. 29° 34" E.), 349

Mabongo, sta. (6° 84" N. 209° 12" K.), 346

Mackay, Mr. A. M. (of the Church Mis-
sionary Society), 494, 495, 504, 508, 522

Macrodipterix (night-jar), 113

Macronyx croceus, Vieill, (long-claw, a
bird), 897

Madapolam, a kind of cloth, 489

Madi (3° 80" N. 83° E.); 10-18) {01-108 ;
physique, 102; language, 103, 161 ;
divisions, $65 ; dress and ornaments,
10, 13, 102 ; villages, 12; marriage,
103 ; funerals, 260 ; graves, 261 ;
smiths, 11; agriculture, 101, 865 ;
transmigration, 260 ; votive trees, 101

peak, Jebel Asal or Ekara (g. v.)

vill; (3° 36" N; 32° 86' E.) 248, 253,
268, 297

Midi-Lokoya, peak, see Remo

Madinga, a musical instrument, 519

Madiri, mt. (50° 42" N. 29° 45 E.), 852

Madundi, tribe (1° 40' N. $1° 62 E.), 17,
18, 52. 72

Maga, vill. (4° 15 N. 80°82 E.), 870

Magangas (" magicians "), 16, 93

Magpie, Senegal, 343 ; see also Cyanopica,
Pitta

Magulu, vill. (6° 32' N. 29° 16' E.), 347

vill. (1° 48' N. 30° 50° E.), 151

Magiingo, sts. (23° 16' N. 81° 30° °E:), 16,
140, 145

tribe (2° N. 82° E.), 16-18, 187-88;
language, 17 ; dress, 16, 187; filing
teeth, 16 ; houses, 18, 188 ; food, 17 ;
burial, 17; marriage, 16 ; supersti-
tions, 16 a

Mabagi, sta. (2° 10' N. 81° 16 E.); 147,
166

 

 

 

 

vill, (1° 58' N. 31° 2" E.), 169
Mahdi, his revolt, 430, 431; summons,
476 ; letter on fall of Khartim, 482
Maholu, khor (6° 33" N. 29° 15 E.), 347
Maize (Zea mays), 45, 46, 55, 198, 282,
288, 418, 423, 449

Maigo, sta. (8° 17' N. 28 12" E.), 195, 445

Maigo, tribe, see Majo

Majo, or Maigo, tribe (2° 10' N. 27° 50' E.),
203, 209

Makedo, falls of (4° 25 N. 31° 40' E.), 9

Makrak&, or Iddio, a Zanda tribe (4° 30°
N. 30° 15 E.), 873-877; migration,
375; divisions, 876; language, 377 ;
dress, 373 ; food, 376 ; villages, 370,
376 ; women, 371, 377 ; occupations,
370, 871, 877, 388 ; reoccupation of
country, 510

Makraké-Sugaire, sta, (4°28" N. 30°17 E.),

388
Makango (plur. Bakungo), title of chiefs
of the first rank in Uny6ro, 89

§38 INDEX AND

Makwa (Makua), the Zanda name of the
Welle (q. v.)

Malach, khor (2° 47" N. 32° 28" E.), 278

Malek, vill. (6° 35 N. 29° 40' K.), 333

Mallows, see Hibiscus and Malvie

Molokwan, mt. (4° 52% N. 31° 26' E.), 300

Malye (mallows), 131

Malwa, a drink, 518

Malzac, M. de, 335

Mambango, chief of Monbuttu, 204

Mambere, Mumberi, or Momi, tribe (3°
10' N. 29° 80' E.), 2083, 881

Mamvolo, peak (6° 2" N. 80° 1' E.), 324

Manda, sta. (5° 1' N. 29° 50' E.), 387

Mandari, or Mandar, tribe (3° 35" N. 31°
20' E.), 321,0869

Mandinda, a musical instrument, 35

Mangala, a game, 519

Mangillihi, pool (6° 33' N. 29° 13' E.), 346

Mango seeds, 459

Manihot utilissima, see Manioc

Manioc, 75, 80, 187, 206, 370, 371, 376,
449

Manis Temminckii (the Manis), 184, 288,
403

Manji, a Zande chief, 445

Manyuema, tribe on upper Congo (4° S.
27° E.), 494

Marabou stork (Leptoptilus ecrumenifer),
341

Mari, a Momvu tribe (3° 30' N. 28° 45
E.), 187

Marquet, Mr., 424

Marshis, tribe at Rimo (4° 15 N. 30° 83'
E.), 369, 370

Masaba, country (1° 20' N. 83° 22" E.), 147

Masai, tribe, 505

Masala, vill. (0° 15 N. 34° 20' E.), 505

Masiki, an anthropoid ape, 899

Masindi (1° 40' N, 31° 55' E.), 21, 22

Mason, Colonel, 4

Masonze, a Zande chief, 445

Masudi-bin-Abeid-bin-Hamis, 488, 489

Matebere, a chief, 71, 72

Matongali, a second-class chief in Un-
yoro, 89

Matyum, vill., south-east of Mruali (c. 1°
30 N. 832° 30' E.), 92

Maudu, tribe of Monbuttu, 203

Maya, khor (2° 6" N. 32° 27' K.), 283

Mayanga, see Babukur

Maye, chief, 2832, 236, 203

Mbala, Munza's son, 447, 448

vill, (4° 19' N. 30° 27' E.), 871

Mbaga, Gambari's brother, 189

Mbaro, vill, (5° 30' N. 29° 43" E.), 852, 353

Mbazi, chief, 67

Mbelle, vill, (5° 4' N. 29° 45 E.), 852

Mberekai, a gourd

Mberi, tribe in Monbuttu, 203

 

 

GLOSSARY.

Mbili, tree, yields oil

Mbio, Zandé chief (5° 30' N. 27° 20' E.),
259, 874, 461 475

Mbittimaa, Zanda chief (3° 40' N. 27°
20' E.), 204, 855, 445

Mboga (0° 50° N. 29° 50', E.), 507, 508

Mbormiu, river (source 5° 5 N. 27° 15 E.),
455

Mbru, a Zanda chief, 445

Mbugu, bark-cloth (g. v.)

Mdilo, hills (5° 41: NL29" 45" HE.), 8623

Meaje-Majo, tribe (2° 10' N. 27° 50' E. ?),
203

Meajo (Junker's Medge?) (2° 40' N. 28°
E.), 196

Megalsema bilineata, Sund. (a bird), 404

Mejidie, a silver coin, value 20 piastres, or
3s. 6d., 489

Mekke, khor (4° 41' N. 29° 37"), 381

Melierax polyzonus (a goshawk), 402, 406

Mellan, dist. (6° 50' N. 29° 10' E.), 842

Melocichla mentalis, Fras. (a bird), 397

Mende, khor (4° 53" N. 29° 55 E.), 387

Mennabor, khor (2° 41' N. 32% 26 E.),
278

Menze, khor (4° 28" N. 30° 8" E.), 373, 374

Mer, dist. (6° 43' N. 20° 10' E.), 345

Merachak, vill, (2° 7' N. 32° 19 K.), 288

Merbu, khor (6° 3" N. 29° 37" E.), 351

Meridi, khor (4° 42" N. 20° 27" E.), 382,
384

Merops (bee eater), 394

albicollis, 227, 302

Bullockii, 141, 227, 245

pusillus, 245

Merre, mt. (5° 80° N30° 22" E.), 355

Merve, khor (3° 56 N. 81° 55 K.), 257,
260

Mervua (durrah beer), 76

Meshra-er-Rek (8° 14' N. 29° 10" E.), 457,
469

Meshra-es-Seid (3° 10' N. 31° 37" E.), 161

Meshrat-el-Jogan, ford (6° 2" N. 29° 57
E.), 825

Meteorological - after-glow, 65; hail-
storms, 63

Meto, mt. (3° 38" N. 31° 48" E.), 8, 140

Mezeju Mkuru, mts. (Mozeju Mkuru of
map) (0° 15 N. 30° 10" E.), 67

Mfumbiro (Kiny6ro), cook

Mianja (upper Mwerango, 1° 25 N. 32° 5
E.), 47, 48

Mice, in the Midi country, 99

Mienval, wells (6° 42" N. 29° 40" E.), 333

Migration of birds, 293

Milk, in Unyéro, 77

Milvus (a kite), 368

parasiticus, 34, 406

Mimi, mt. aud sta., south-east of Tingazi,
191

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Mimosas, 7, 18, 24, 132, 185, 521

Mimusops, a tree, order Sapotacese, 159

Mindi, vill. (4° 32" N. 20° 57 F.), 378

Minstrels, in Uginda, 32

Mire, or Dore, mt. (4° 45" N. 31° 10' E.),
800

Miri, vill. (3° 40' N. 32° 34' E.), 254

Mirshuk or Gollolindu (4° 45! N. 32° 2"
E.), 216

Missionaries in Central Africa, 428, 522

Mistletoe, see Loranthus

Mitika (4° 19' N. 31° 13' E.), 860

Mittu, tribe (5° 30° N. 29° 20' E.), 308,
327, 356

Mizani, vill. (5° 23" N. 30° 28" E.), 356

Mlamba, a drink, 518

Mlisa, vill. on Lake Albert (2° 4' N. 31°
28" E.)

Mceddoberi, vill. (6° 22" N. 209° 47' E.),
329

Modira, khor (4° 40' N. 52° 8' F.), 217

Modo or Ras-el-Mayo (2° 19° N. 32° 31
E.), 280

Modzua, khor (4° 36' N. 29° 50" E.), 379

Mofia, chief of Mvolo, 325

Mogedo, vill. (4° 27' N. 31° 29 E.), 358

Moggu (Falongo's vill.) (4° 50' N. 29° 31

.), 384

Mogille, mt. (4° 36' N. 29° 12" E.), 384

Mohammed Biri, 494

es-Sayad, 479

Salah of Bornu, 410

Mok, tribe (7° 18' N. 28° 45" E.), 339

Molere, mt. (4° 51' N. 32° 4' E.), 216

Mollo, vill. (5° 18" N. 30° 37' E.), 356

vill. (5° 34' N. 30° 6' E.), 354

Molo, dist. (6° 5 N. 80° 25" E.), 821

Molong, mt. (4° 17" N. 32° 53' E.), 219, 231

Mombasa, town (4° 5 8. 39° 40" E.), 505

Momvu, tribe (3° N. 29° E), 187, 201,
203

 

 

 

Monbuttu, tribe (see map), 190-192, 196-
213 ; origin, 202, 454; divisions, 196 ;
bandaging the head, 212, 447 ; circum-
cision, 212 ; clannishness, 315; dress,
&c., 210, 211; painting, 447 ; houses,
188, 190, 212; food, cannibalism, 192,
206 ; social institutions, 198, 208-210,
$22 ; genealogy of chiefs, 448 ; servile
tribes, 202 ; liberation of slaves, 410,
413 ; dances, 211; the country of the
Monbuttu, 191, 200, 201, 442

Monkeys, 101, 202 ; see Aonix, Baboon,
Cercopithecus, Chimpanzee, Colobus,
Theropithecus

Montij, dist. (6° 47' N. 29° 83' E.), 334

"* Moringa," a tree yielding oil, 418

Morlabba, vill. (5° 33' N. 30° 39' E.),
308

Mormyrus (a fish), 175

 

539

Moro, mt. (2° 87' N. 82° 83" E.), 249, 278
279, 288

Moru, dist. and tribe (5° N. 80° E.), 805,
313-314, 320, 854

Moru-Kodo ("northern " Moru) (5° 40"
N. 80° 10 E.), 313

Moru-Missa ("southern " Moru), 5° N.
80° E.), 818

Mosquitos, 334

Motacilla flava (yellow wagtail), 146

vidua, 146, 176

Mouse, see Georychus, Golundo

Mpafu-tree, (Canarium edule, Hook. fil.)
126, 380, 422, 459

Mparo-Nyamoga, capital of Unyéro (1°
28' N. 81° 80' E.), 59269, 81

Mrisa, durrah beer, 519

Mreko, chief of Kahura (1° N.
31, 34, 40. 45, 46, 131

Mrali (1° 89 N. 32° 20' RJ), 25227; 28,
50, 72, 185

Msedyus, mt. (1°%52' N/ 82° 86' E.), 982

Msige, interpreter, 68, 70, 72, 488

Msisi, river (1° 9' N. 30° 40' E.), 167

Msongua (1° 51' N. 30° 50' E.), 151

Msvar, dist. (2° N. 31° E.), 150

Mtésa, 46-49, 68, 115, 117, 146, 472;
biography, 514

Mtundwa, hill (0° 17" N. 32° 37/ E.), 194

Muambia, dist. or chief (0° 37" N. $2° 40
E.), 44

Mubisi, see Sandi

Mudir, " director," governor of a district

Mueng, dist. (1° 10' N. 30° 50' E.) 97, 508

Mugaya, dist. (1° 30' N. 31° 30' E.}, 97

Muggi, sta. (4° 8' N. 31° 42 E.), 6, 484

Mukana (Anfina's island) (2° 16" N. 32°
18} EB.), 287

Mukomere, vill. (2° 16 N. 32° 17' E.),
287

Mula Effendi, a worthless officer, 413, 414

Mumbere, see Mambere

Mundar, see Mandari

Mundia, mt. (4° 11' N.; 81° I' E.), 861

Mundu (or Bamba) (4° 5 N. 29° 45! E.),
192 (cannibals), 380, 440, 441

Mungaya, dist. (= Mugaya ?), 180

Mungo, hill (4° 42" N. 29° 47' E.), 381

Munza, late Monbuttu chief (3° 28" N.
27° 58 E.), 193, 204, 439, 446, 447 (his
daughter)

Murchison Bay or Mwiéru Luajeri (0° 10'
N. 32° 40° E.), 126

Murjan Aga, 478-80

Musa-Bey, an energetic officer, 344

Musa ensete (a banana), 20, 39, 296, 363,
423

Musanga (trumpet-tree), 195

Muscovy glass, 216, 290

Mushrooms, 184 ; see Fungi

1

 

U

82° 30° E.),

540

Musicapa (fly-catcher, bird), 141

infulata, 167

Musingok, dist. (4° 40' N. 83° 50° E.),
298, 415

Musk-rat (Myogale), 896 _

Musophaga Rosse, Gould (a plantain-
eater), 200, 400, 520

Mustapha Aga, 466

Mutongali (plur. batongali), a chief of the
second rank

Mutua, island (2° 15 N.. 82°. 17'B.), 286,
287

Mvyolo or Lesi,. sta. (6° 8 N. 290° 56 E.),
325, 326

Mwanga, king of Ugdnda, 515, 489, 522

Mwiru Luajeri or Murchison Bay (q. ¥.)

Mwénge (banana wine), 74, 76, 518, 519

Mwerango, river, see Mianja

Mwutan Nzige ("locust- killer") see
Albert Lake

Mycteria senegalensis (Yabirus stork), 98,
166

Myogale moschatus and M. pyrenaica
(musk-rats), 396

Myrianthus (a tree), 195

Myristica (a fruit-tree), 199

Myrmecocichla nigra (a wheat-ear), 366,
367

 

NADuIMA, mt. (0° 41' N. 32° 40' E.), 42

Naluvali Island (0° 5 N. 32° 38' E.), 12

Nambia, khor (4° 22" N. 30° 23' E.), 37

Nam Lau (river of Lau) or Ayi (q. v.)

Namo, mt. (3° 82' N. 82° 12' B.), 265

Naponga, brook (8° 27' N. 28° 32" E.),
187

ty
1

2

i

Nasirie, dist. (0° 80' N. 32° 40' E.), 144

Natefar, spring (2° 50' N. 34° 20' E.), 252

Nava, river (source 2° 15 N. 27° 50 E.),
191

Ndabiri, division of the Makrakd, 376

Ndirh, sta. (4°: 7' N. 80° 21' 15.), 862,
439

Ndoruma's (4° 50' N. 27° 25 B.), 460,
461

Nectarinia (sunbirds), 200

cyanocephala, 404

pulchella, 142

Nectodonts (an insect), 146

Nedada, vill. (3° 27' N. 28° 52 E.), 187

Negunda (3° 21" N. 28° 40' E.), 189, 201,
450

Nenja, vill. (3° 20' N. 28° E.), 195, 445

Neophron percnopterus (Egyptian vul-
ture), 395

Neotragus, see Antilope

Nepa (water-scorpion), 146

Newts, see Triton

Ngele, vill. (4° 46' N. 29° 28' E.), 384

Ngirua, mt. (4° 40° N.:20°: 16 E.), 888

 

 

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY,

Ngorre, khor (5° 18 N. 30°53" E.),.307

vill, (6° 18! 18.3, 820

Ngunyi, vill. (5° 34' N.80° E.), 852

Niambara, see Nyambara

Niam-Niam or Nyam-Nyam, see Zande

Nicotiana rustica, 32, 40, 267, 813, 833,
885

-- Tabacum, 32

virginiana, 40, 77, 78, 285, 385

Nightingale, see Luscinia

Night-jar, see Macrodipterix, Cosmetornis

Night-shade, see Solanum

Nigrita Arnaudi (a bird), 857

Nile, river, native names, 281 ; in Shifal4,
287 ; see also Bahr-el-Jebel

Nisus sp. (sparrow-hawk), 227

Nkole, country (0° 30' 8. 30° 80' E.), 112,
489

 

 

Noggaras, the kettledrums of the Wa-
ginda

Nomayo, or Bomokandi, river, 447

Nubar Pasha, 495, 498

Nuér, tribe (8° 40' N. 31° E.), 339

Nugger (Arabic), a sailing barge

Numa, rivulet (3° 23' N, 28° 45' E.), 188

Nur-Bey, a seamp, xvii., xx., 69, 485, 486

Nurvira, mt. (2° 58" N. 32° 3" E.), 162

Nutmeg, in Ugdinda, 123, 442

Nyaj, khor (2° 6°N. 32° 19' K.), 283

Nyambara (Nyangbara), tribe (4° 48' N.
31° 7' E.), 299, 303-305, 369

Nyambue, khor (2° 10 N. 32° 17' E.),
286

Nyamere, island (2° 3' N. 32° 85' E.),
281

Nyamini, khor (4° 57' N. 31° 85' E.), 801

Nyam - Nyam ("cannibals"), 3; see
Zande

Nyamusa, dist. (6° N. 30° 20' E.), 321

Nyang, vill. (6° 37' N. 29° 11' E.), 3846

Nyangali, mt. (5° 23" N. 5° 85 €.), 856

Nyangwe, on Congo (4° 8. 27° E.), 427

Nyapu, tribe (3° 30' N. 27° 55 E.), 196,
203, 441

Nyedi, mt. (6° 13 N. 29° 50' E.), 328

Nyefo, mt. (4° 5 N. 31° 35 E.), 140

Nyelea, vill. (20:10. -N. +817, 8 H.), 151,
152

Nyerkani, mt. (5° 5 N. 81° 45! E.), 3538

Nyiri, mt. (3° 50 N. 81° 50° E.), 140

Nymphaea, see Water-lily

Nyone, hill (3° 11' N. 32° 85° K.), 273

Nyori, dist. (5° N. 31° 40' E.), 299

Nyussi-Msisi, river (1° 9° N. 30° 40' E.),
167

Nzolo, tribe of the Kibali, at Logo, 439

OBBI, Midi name for the Welle, 187

Obbo, sta. (4° 7" N. 32° 29' E.), 256, 267
207

INDEX AND GLOSSARY, $41

Ocymum canum, L., the " toolsie" of
India, order 184

Odia, mt. (8"50°N., 38° 7"E.), 242

Odiak, vill, (3° 1" N. 32° 20 E.), 275

Odina (a gum-yielding tree), 400

Odiri, vill. (8° 41" N. 82° 12" E.), 264

Odukwe, vill. (3° 50° N. 32° 1' E.), 261

Ofo, khor (5° 34' N. 29° 42' E.), 853

Ogeloquer, khor (5° N. 33° 20' E,), 293

Ogilli, mt. (3° 13" N. 83° 12' E.), 244, 249

-- vill. (4° 5 N. 32° 10 R.), 256, 207

Oil-palm, 190, 207 (Elais guineensis),
190, 207, 404, 424, 443

Okirri, see Ekara

Ojo, khor (5° 28' N. 29° 46' E.), 354

Okaga, mt. (3° 8' N. 82° 59° E.), 249

Okka, a weight, nearly three pounds, 874

Okkela, sta. (4° 42" N. 32° 33' E.), 222,
224, 229, 201

Okora, khor (3° 52 N. 33° 3' E.), 243,
244, 205

khor (3° 35 N. 82° 38' B.), 257

Olives, 457

Ombamba, vill. (4° 35 N. 29° 12 E.),
383, 513

Ombolokko, river (6° 10' N. 29° 45 E.),
350, S51

Oncoba (a fruit), 304, 306, 310

Ondebiri, vill. (4° 25 N. 30° 10° E.), 873

Ongolet, vill. (4° 40" N. 82° 48 E.), 234

Onions, 373

Oppel, mt. (3° 47" N. 33° 10' E.), 242,
296

 

Oppone, mt. (4° 41' N. 32° 12 E.), 219,
291

Oracles, 96

Ordeal, poison, 88

Oriolus Rolleti, Salvad, see Pogonorhyn-
chus

Ortygometra egregia (Peters's crake),
149, 156

Ortygospiza atricollis (a finch), 56

Orycteropus sethiopicus (an aut-eater),
228, 401

Orycetes nasicornis (a beetle, family
Dynastidse), 146

Osman Effendi turns rebel, 475

Oso, mt. (5° 27" N. 30° 1' E.), 355

Ospreys, 343, see also Haliaétus

Ostriches, 226, 251, 270, 402

Oteng, khor (4° 27" N. 82° 58' E.), 239

Otolienus Galago (the Galago, a lemur),

332
Otongole, vill, (3° 2" N. 32° 23 E.), 107,
108, 276
Otsame, khor (3° 0' N. 32° 8' E.), 106
Ottelia (a water-plant), 12, 136 P
Otters, 121; see also Lutra
Ovidda, khor (4° 5 N. 32° 20' E.), 256
Owls, see Bubo capensis

 

Oxylophus (a bird), 394
Oysters, see Etheria

mt., 249
Palseornis cubicularis (a parakeet), 57
4351301‘quatus (green parrot), 101, 853,

 

Pale, mt. (8° 23""N. 83° 10' E.), 244, 249

Palta-oil in Monbuttu, 200

Palta-wine in Monbuttu, 207

Palms, 444 ; see also Date-palm, Oil-palm,
Dum-palm, Doléb, Calamus

Pameto, dist. near Labore, 262

Pandanus (screw-pine), 380-382, 405

Panyatoli, vill, (2° 7" N. 32° 17" E.), 137,
283, 285

Papaw-tree (Carica papaya), 137, 373,
387, 423, 418

Papyrus, 11, 12, 58, 135, 136, 162, 278-
280, 436, 450

Parakeet, see Palseornis

Paé'ngssia. palustris (an aquatic plant),

6

Parkia, see Bassia Parkii

Parra africana (African Jacana), 12

Parrots, 315, 317; see Agapornis, Palsor-
nis, Pionias, Psittacus

Passer domesticus, L. (is really P. rufi-
dorsalis), a sparrow, 2903, 520

Passer Swainsonii (a sparrow), 245

Passion-flowers, 137, 268

Patokome, ford (6° 2 N. 29° 57' K.), 325

Pays, mt. (5° 86" N. 80° 29° E.), $11,855

Pea, see Lathyrus, Voandzeia

Peaches, 457

Penicillaria, see Dokhn

Penthetria macroura (a widow-bird), 221,
254, 361, 369

Pentholsea clericalis (a bird), 366

Pentstemon, erroneous description of a
Serophuleriacea, 7, 131, 521

Pepper (Capsicum conicun), 75

Petherick, Mr. J., 324

Petunia (?), a nightshade, 111, 290, 330

Phalacrocorax africanus (cormorant), 166,
167

Phaseolus lunatus! (Duffin bean), 75,
130

mungo (Mungo bean), 75, 80, 130

Phatages (Manis) Temminckii, 228

Philagrus melanorhynchus, 245

Phcenix, see Date-palm

spinosa (wild date), 53, 444

Pholidauges leucogaster (glossy thrush),
245

Phyllostrephus Sharpei, Sh. (a thrush),
399

 

 

Picus minutus (woodpecker), 56, 227
nubicus, 227

 

542

Picus schcensis, 227, 520

Pidi, mt. (2° 85 N. 32° 84" E.), 279

Pigeons, 301, 379, 391 ; see also Treron

Pik, a measure, nearly two feet

Pile-dwellings, 319, 329

Pionias Meyeri (a parrot), 353

rufiventris, 399

Pipit, see Anthus, 142

Pistia (duckweed), 12, 136, 147, 185

Pitta angolensis (Angola magpie), 396,
397

Plantain-eater, see Musophaga, Schizorhis,
Corythaix, Turacus C

Platycerium elephantotis, Schw.(alichen}),
56, 125, 138

Plotus (darter), 144

Levaillanti, 166

melanogaster, 14

Plovers, see Egialites,
Hyas, Pluvianus

Plums, 457 ; see also Vitex

Pluvianus segyptiacus (a plover), 102

Pogonorhynchus abyssinicus (a barbet),
227

diadematus, 227

Rolleti, 227, 520, 262

bidentatus, 146

Poliornis rufipennis, Strick. (a buzzard),
394, 402, 406

Polygala (milkwort), 181

Pomegranates, 373, 418

Pondweed, see Potamogeton

Porcupines, $96 ; see also Atherura, Au-
lacodus, Hystrix

Poro, vill, (4°: 17' N, 80° 20' E.), 870

Poroli, khor (2° 29' N. 82° 28" K.), 279

Portulaca oleracea, see Purslane

Potamochcerus penicillatus (a bird), 200

Potamogeton (pondweed), 136

Pottery in Unydro, 85, 122

Pottolkai; khor (5°=22' N.=80° 48" B.),
307

 

 

 

Hoplopterus,

 

 

 

Prosopis (a plant), 363

Prostitution in Unyéro, 87

Protea, tree, 899

Protopterus (Lepidosiren) annectens, Ow.,
a fish, 137

Prout, Colonel, 4

Psittacus erythacus, L. (grey parrot), 57,
853, 399, 405

--- Timneh, 57

Ptilopachys ventralis (" rock-fowl "), 247,
273, 326, 342

Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), 74, 229

Pyenonotus niloticus (the Bulbul bird),
345

Pyrenestes ostrinus, L. (a finch), 404

Pytelia Monteirii, Hartl. (a finch), 404

Python, 47, 77, 265, 281, 882

Python africanus, domesticated, 339

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

QuaIL, see Coturnix
Quartz, 385

RABBITS, their introduction, 891

Radzl, 'khor (8° 12/N0 81°57 ©.), 104

Rafai Aga, his ill conduct, 374

Rahad (a loin-cloth, short apron), 6

Rains, in Uny6ro, 34, 65,108,139, 189, 297

Rakhit Bay, 485, 486

Randia, a shrub, order Rubiacese, 299, 318

Rango, vill. (5° 45 N. 29° 48" E.), 852

Raphia (a palm), 187

Ras-el-Fil (" Elephant's Head") (2° 23
N. 82 27" B.), 280

Ras-el-Maye or Modo (2° 19' N. 32° 31'
E.), 280

Rasuba, khor (4° 41' N. 29° 25 E.), 383

Rattan (Calamus Rotang), 160, 190

Rauf Pasha, 433

Raven, 34 ; see also Corvus, Tmetoceras

Razzia (Arabic), a raid, plundering ex-
pedition

Redstart, see Ruticella

Rego, mt., (4° 25 ~N,'81°%25'!E.), 857

Rejaf, mt. (4° 45 N. 31°82 °B;y)1

sta., 491

Rek, tribe (7° 30' N. 29° 20' E.), $89

Reko (Rego), mt. (4° 45 N. 30° 57" E.), 300

Rembeta, vill, (4° 25 N. 30° 20' E.), 372

Rembete, a division of the Makrakd, 376

Remo, mt., or Mddi Lokoya (3° 51' N.
82° 8"E.), 2550261, 262

Renga, see Irenga

Rengo, vill. (6° 18" N. 29° 49" E.), 328

Rice, 423, 418

Rihan Agas, commandant of Lad6, 482,
483, 500

Roku, mt. (5° 82" N, 29° 56' E.}, 854

Rillek, hot spring (4° 52 N. 30° 57" E.),
158

 

Rimo, sta. (4° 15 N. 30° 33" E.), $68, 870 ;
defeat of rebels, 481, 484

Rinyak, vill, (4° S9' N. 82° 19" E.}, 219,
290, 291

Rionga, chief of 1836, 281

Rizegat, Arab tribe (9° 30' N. 27° 30° E.),
437

Roa, river (6° 59" N. 28° 58"E.), 348, 382

Rochima, chief of Shauli, 106, 107, 271,
278, 275 N

Rock-fowl, see Ptilopachys

Rodon, khor (4° 88" N. 32° 17' E.), 220,221

Rokko, Zand designation of bark cloth,
210, 211

Rol, dist, and tribe (7° 20' N. 29° 50° E.),
322, 513

Roller (bird), see Eurystomus, Coracias

Rom, dist, (8° 25" N. 88° 46' E.), 252

Ronga, vill. on Lake Albert (1° 46' N. 3°
21' E.), 159

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Rubaga (0° 19' N. 82° 37' E.), 112, 128

Rubber plants, 347

Rugoi, hill behind Kibiro, 175

Rugong, chief of Liria, 216, 219, 220

Rubanda or Ruando, country (1° 30" S.
30° E.), 128, 285

Ruku, vill. (6° 8' N. 29° 53 E.), 327

Rumbék, sta. (6° 47' N. 29° 33" E.), its
history, 334; condition, 335; slave-
nest, 336; captured by the Dinka,
450 ; evacuated, 468, 471

Ruticilla phoenicurus, L. (redstart), 395

BaBt (Sabbi), zer. (6° 10' N. 28° 56' E.),
383, 453

Sagara, vill. (2° 7*N. 82° 27' E.), 133

Sage (salvia), 362

Said Bargash, Sultan of Zanzibar

Saleh Hakim, his misdeeds, 322

Salih Aga, a brave soldier, 434

Salpornis Emini, Hartl., erroneously de-
scribed as a Certhia, 520

Salt, 74, 121, 141, 150, 172, 176, 508

Salvia (sage), 362

Sandi, or mubisi (banana wine), 34, 76,
518

Sandpiper, see Actitis

Sanga Kebir, the "great" chief (3° N.
27° 45' E.), 199, 205, 448

Mambele or Zurar, the "little" (2°
10' N. 28° 7' E.), 205, 447; 448

Sanseviera, plant, yielding fibre, order
Liliaces, 291, 302, 347

Sarcidiornis _ melanotus
goose), 233

Sarciophorus (a lapwing), 327

tectus, 300

Sarcocephalus, a serubby tree, order Rubi-
acese, 187, 265, 306, 383, 400

Satti Effendi, betrays Lupton, 467

Sayadin, sta. (5° 26' N. 29° 43' E.), 353,
471

 

(knob-billed

 

Scabiosa, order Dipsaces, 182

Schizorhis (plantain-eater), 34, 261, 315

leucogastra, Riipp., 236, 399, 402

zonura, 102, 263, 402

Schnizleinia, sp. n., see Lakorta-tree

Schuver, Jean Maria (b. Feb. 26, 1852,
murdered by the Dinka, April 1883),
457

Schweinfurth, 200, 447

Sciurus (Xerus) leucumbrinus (a squir-
rel), 234, 326

Scopus umbretta (tufted umbre), 12, 70,
176, 215, 290

Scorpions, see Nepa

Screw-pine, see Pandanus

Seba Jezair, island (4° 38' N. 31° 37'
E.), 2

 

 

 

543

Secretary-bird (Gypogeranus serpenta-
rius), 402
Segsgzinella, order Lycopodiacem, 195,

Sempa, mt. (0° 39' N. 82° 40' F.), 43
Seznfix‘, town (13° 40'; N. 84%BR.),.898,
34

Sereten, mits. (8° 55" N. 883° 16' F.}, 240,
295

Serpents, see Snakes

Serval, or bush-ant, 223

Seguge (semsem), 8, 13, 100, 101, 311,
0

Sesse, islands in Victoria Lake (0° 20' N.
82° 40' E.), 518

Shagga, khor (2° 35! N. 82° 20' E.), 279

Shakka, in S. Kordofan (10° 52 N. 26°
35' E.), 486

Sh2%be, sta. {(J%5'-N.(80°:57' E.); 486,

f

Sheep, 150, 226

Shells, 159, 172, 176 ; see also Achatina

Sherifi's zer., see Gok-el-Hassan, 453

Shifalt (Chop!) (2° 10 N. $2° 20"B.),
17, 97, 284, 285

Bhikat (2° S84 N. 52° 38"°B.),. 279

Shiluk, tribe (see map), 150, 435

Shir,7tribe (5°: N. 31° 50° E.:); $69,
43 I

Shrike, see Lanius, Urolestes, Dryosco-
pus, Telephonus

Shua, or Ledovan (8° 5' N. 32° 20' E.),
109, 272

Shubra, a suburb of Cairo, 497

Shukurie, tribe (16° N. 34° E.), 484

Shauli, tribe (3° N. 82° 30 E.), 106-108,
244-245, 266-274 ; politeness, 272;
dress, 108, 270, 274 ; ornaments, 267,
270 ; arms, 247 ; frigures, 267 ; paint-
ing, 274; houses, 108, 244, 266, 271,
274; women, 266, 271; agriculture,
266 ; pottery, 266 ; cattle, 244; smiths,
270; hunting and hunting-trophies,
268, 271 ; votive trees and huts, 108,
216

Siluridans (fishes), 141

Siri, khor (3° 12 N. 31° 58' E.), 104

Sizygium, a tree, order Myrtacem, 262,
310

Skin disease, 443

Slatin, Colonel, 430

Slave-trade, 124, 322, 330, 420, 425, 481,
484, 505

Slave-raids, 300, 411, 412

Slaves, liberation of, 315, 321, $36

Smallpox, at Wadelai, 501

Smiths, 25, 81, 244, 270

Snails, see Clausilia

Snakes, 146, 226, $39 ; see also Echis,
Python, Typhlops

544

Sobat, river and sta. (9° 20' N. 31° 45
E.), 11, 898, 485, 470

Sofi, dist. and tribe (6° 10'N. 29° 55 E.),
327, 828

Sogodi, swamp (4° 41' N. 32° 27' E.), 122

Solanacese (nightshades), 153

Solanum, 75, 108, 373

coagulans, 8

melongena (egg-plant), 320

lycopersicum, see Tomato

Soldiers, Egyptian, 497, 502

Somal, tribe in North-east Africa, 400

Songa, chief of Mahagi, 168

Songa, sta. (1° 57 N. 81° 3' F.), 510, 514

Sorghum vulgare, see Durrah

saccharatum (sweet sorgho), 30

Soymida, a tree of the Melia, 262

Sparrows, see Chrysospiza Passer

Spathodea, a tree, order Bignonicese, 19,
54, 125, 275, 868

Speke, Captain, 78, 92

Spermestes cucullatus (a finch), 56, 146,
375, 399

caniceps, 402

Spermospiza (a bird), 200

hsematina, Vieill., 404

Spizattus occipitalis (eagle hawk), 142

Spondias (hog-plums), 222

Sporothlastes fasciatus (a finch), 56

Sports, see Hunting

Squirrels, 200, 234, 326 ; see also Anoma-
lurus, Funambulus, Sciurus, Xerus

Stanley's expedition, xxxii., 509

Stations, daily routine, 521

Stenostira plumbea (a bird), 221

Sterculia (a tree), 384

Stereospermum (a butter tree), 341, 400

Sterna (terns), 145

Storks, 292; see also Anastomus, Ciconia

Suakin, town on Red Sea, 475

Sugar-cane, 46, 77

Sunbirds, 142, 388 ; see also Nectarinia

Sunt (Arabic), wood of the Acacia nilotica

Swan (Plectropterus Gambensis), 233

Sweet potatoes (Batatas edulis), 75, 206,
250, 271, 275, 286

Swift, see Cypselus

Sycamores, 291

Syphilis, 38

 

 

 

 

 

 

TaBart, khor (2° 20' N. 89° 22 E.), 280

Tabotra (5° 8. 32° 50' E.), 116

Tafari, khor (5° 18' N. 80° 53' E.), 807,
857

Tahir Aga, 473

Taka, vill, (0° 47' N. 84° 10° B.), 97

Takalla, dist, (8° 55 N. 32° 20' E.), 262

Talabun, Sudan name for Eleusine cora-
cana

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY,

Tami, vill. (0° 50" N. 832% 832 E:), 38

Tamarinds, 2, 12, 107, 185

Tamarisks, 401

Tambira, sta. (2° 52 N. 80° E.), 364, 429,
439

Tantalus (bird, family of the herons), 4

Tarangole, vill; (4° 30' N. 32° 59 B.y
235, 298, 204

Tarbush, a cap, often named after Fez in
Moroceo

Tari, khor (3° 7 N. 82° 18 E.), 288

Tawfs (sedge-islands), 1, 14

Taya, mt. (5° S4" 14' E.), 355

Telephonus minutus, Hartl. (a shrike),
399

Telphusa (fresh water-crab), 375

Tendia (4° 12' N. 29° 52' E.), 439

Tephrosia, a bush, order Leguminos,
a mash from the leaves of which is
used to destroy fish, 101, 276, 278, 362,
388

Termayok, dist. (2° N. 34° E.), 252, 415

Termes bellicosus (white ant), 329

Terminalia, order 107,139,
306

Termites, see Ants, white

Terns, see Sterna, 145

Terpsiphone (Paradise fly-catcher), 227

Thamnolsea (a chat), 141

Theropithecus (a monkey), 401

Thomson, Mr. Joseph, 472, 509

Thrush, see Lamprocolius, Pholidauges,
Phyllostrephus

Tis, mt., or Lomu (4° 1° N. 38% 10' E.),
242

Ticks, 1565

Times newspaper, 496

Tingazt, vill, (3° 20° N. 27% 57° B.), 194,
196, 445

Tingtum, vill. (8° 10° N.92° 57° ©.),.240

Tinna, mt. (2° 50' N. 28° 45. E.), 191,
201

Tinnea sethiopica (a plant), 326

Tipalanga, khor (3° 56' N. 31° 54' E.), 260

Tmetoceras abyssinicus (horned raven),
104, 332 -

Toa, vill. (2° N. 81° 20° E.), 148

Tobacco, 82, 40; 77, 78, 112, 208, 281,
285, 313, 333, 385, 449, 506

Tobe, mt. (5° 48" N. 29° 43' E.), 358

Tobo (4° 8 N. 30° 17' E.), 489

Tochi, khor (2° 88, N, 82° 27" E.), 279

Toe, mt, (8° 42 N. 34° 12 E.), 241, 205

Togodo, mt. (5° 80° N. 30° 209° E.), 356

Togul (tokul), Nubian, a round straw
hut, with a conical roof

Tollogo, mt.. (4° 40' N. 32° O' .), 217,
218, 290

Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), 100,
275, 366, 423

INDEX AND GLOSSARY.

Tomays, sta. (4° 38' N. 29° 52° K.), 378,
452

Ton}, sta. (7° 18" N. 28° 43" E.), 469

Toreus erythrorhynehus (a bird), 20

Torkols, mt. (4° 455 N. 82° 2' E.), 216,
290

Torre, khor (4° 35 N. 80° 28° B.), 373,
388

Toru, country (0° 40" N. 30° 20° E.), 92,
154

Trachyphonus margaritatus (a barbet),
56

Tragelaphus scriptus (an antelope), 71,
102, 121, 133

Treron nudirostris (a pigeon), 159

Tricholsema (a bird), 200

Tricholais eaniceps (a bird), 399

elegans, 252

Trichophorus (a bird), 200, 404

flavigula, Cab., 399

Triton, n. sp. (a newt), 367

Troglodytes niger, see Chimpanzee

Tu, river (4° 27" N. 83° 22" K.), 239, 293

Taj (Tuich), tribe (7° N. 31° 10° E.), 470

Tunguru, island (2° 10' N. 31° 19' E.), 167

Tunjuru, swamp (5° 57" N. 30° 15 E.), 323

Turacus giganteus (the turaco, a bird),
200, 404, 520

Turkan, country (2° 40° N. 34° 30° E.),
159, 252, 269, 415

Turnix lepurana, Sm. (Kurrichaine hemi-
pode), 157, 394

Turtles, 167

Turtur albiventris, semitorquatus, and
senegalensis (turtle-doves), 174, 385

Twins, 84, 209

Typhlops Schlegelii (a snake), 228, 375

 

 

Uarto, vill. (3° 40° N. 32° 52" E.), 247

Uddu (Buddu), a district of Ugdinda (0°
30' S. 31° 45" E.)

Ugdnda, kingdom north of the Victoria
Lake; war with Unyoro, 498, 501 ;
treatment of foreigners, 516, 522; see
also Waginda, Mtésa, Rubaga, &e.

Ugungu, vill. (0° 43" N. 32° 32" E.), 130

Ti, mt. (5° 23" N. 30° 28" K.), 856

Ukamba, country (2° S. 38° E.), 397

Ulikare, vill. (4° 51 N. 32° 4 E.), 216

Umbre, see Scopus

Um-dikdik, see Antilope hemprichiana,
222

Umiro, country (2° 20' N. 33° E.), 97,
251, 415

Ummoda, hill (3° 44' N. 32° 29" E.), 255

Unyama, river (mouth 8° 35 N. 32° 5
E.), 11, 99, 106, 109

Unyoéro (1° N. 31° E.), the country of the
Wanyoro (g. v.)

 

545

Uoko, river (6° 10° N. 29° 45" E.), 850
Vong (Wong), vill (8° 42" N. 82° 55( E.),
246, 275
Upupa epops (Hoopoe), 245
Urgegiuthus phcenicotis, Swns. (a finch),
6

Urbare, vill. (4° S1UN. 81° 40' R.), (215
Ur1g2itlea, a bulbous plant, order Liliacese,

Urolestes (a shrike), 252
Usavara, $2% 41"B.), 126
Uséga (0° 80° N. 31° K.), 117, 197
Ushurie (Arabic), " tithe-payer," 409
Usonda, vill, (2° 38" R.J\; 139
Usongora, country (0° N. 29° 45 E.), 154,
507
Usukuma, country ("north" of Unyan-
yembe, south of Victoria Lake), 494
Uyugu, mt. (3° 8' N. 32° 58" E.), 249
Uyut, vill. (4° 528. 88° E.), 116
Uzinga, country (2° 30' 8. 82° 30° E.),
122

VALIABANTU (" cannibals "), 76, 90

Vakil, agent, lieutenant

Valani, mt., see Kelen

Vallisneria, an aquatic plant, 12, 136

Vanellus (lapwing), 4

Varan (a lizard), 100

Vari, vill. (5° 26" N. 80%~27' K.), 956

Varingo, khor (2° 8' N.81° 58 E.), 139

Vatako, sta. (3° 50' N. 80° 48" E.), 367

Vatica (a plant), 306, 361

Vatti, mt. (4° 10' N. 30° 10° E.}, 365

Vegetables, 419, 420

Verbayo, vill.(8° 1' N. 82° 25 E.), 276

Veya, or Vio, mt. (4° 42' N. 81' 80° E.),
300

Victoria Lake (Victoria Nyanza), 126

Vidua principalis (common widow-bird),
142

Vigna sinensis (lubia of the Arabs, a
bean), 8, 75, 288

Vine, 249, 287, 423, 457

Vita Hassan, the apothecary, 493-495

Vitex (wild plum-tree), 287, 383, 106,
107

Voandzeia subterranea (" a
pea), 80, 129

YVorolo, dist, (8° 55 N. 82° 10' K.), 262

Vossia, a grass, 12, 383

Vossion, Mons. (French Consul at Khar-
tum, now in Philadelphia), 429

Votive trees and huts, 108, 216, 245,
266

Vultures, 125, 406 ; see also Neophron

Wabgrar, sta. (2° 48 N. 31° 30° E.), 4,
13, 152, 485, 510
2 M

546

Waginda, the people of 29, 38,
89, 45, 67, 88, 111, 119

Waztails, see Budytes, Motacilla

Wahurma, Wawitu, or Watusi, tribe of
herdsmen, 35, 37, 43, 82, 92, 125, 130,
284, 508, 517 (pedigrees)

Wai, a large river flowing west to Welle,
160

Waj, Alwaj, or Elwaj, a Dinka tribe
(72 50° N. 29° 80' 12.) 389

Wakonjo, tribe (south-east of Albert
Lake?), 508

Wakori, tribe (0° 20' N. 34° E.), 505

Wallace's zoo-geographical regions, 392,
404

Wamberi, a division of the Makrakd, 376

Wamboga, see Mboga

Wand, sta. (4° 106' N. 80° 81' E.), 870,
389, 465, 468, 481

Wando, Mbio's brother, a Zanda chief
(original res. 4° 16' N. 28° 8' E.), 874,
421, 439

Wany6ro, people of Unyéro (1° N. 81°
E.), 58-565, 78-97, 112-138; personal,
53, 73; extraction of teeth, 74 ; dress,
55, 120 ; houses, 55 ; food and drink,
74, 76, 78, 79; cannibalism, 77, 94;
diseases, 94 ; birth, 83; twins, 84;
graves, 93 ; matrimony, 82, 85, 90 ;
prostitutes, 87 ; chiefs' wives, 77 ;
slave-girls, 117; blood-brotherhood, 77;
agriculture and cattle, 79, 80, 90;
smiths, 81; bark cloth, 82 ; tanners, 81;
pottery, 88, 122 ; markets and trade,
79, 111, 112; political institutions, 91;
laws, 86, 88; poison ordeal, 88; home
rule, 89. History of Unyéro, 92; war
with Ugdnda, 498, 499, 501 ; legends,
93-96 ; witches, 82 ;} magic, 93 ; super-
stitions and divination, 94-96; geo-
graphical notes, 97

Warbler, see Aédon, Cistiola

Warrafan, swamp (6° 36 N. 29° 42 E.),
333

Wara, mt. (5° 22 N, 5° 85 B.), 856

Wasawe, tribe, probably the Musawe of
J. Thomson, who are not Masai (0° 40"
N. 34° 30' E.), or the Masaba (1° 20' N.
28° 20' E.), 97

Waséoga (inhabitants of Usdga, 0° 30' N.
51° L.), 117, 197

Wasongora, t.e., inhabitants of Usongora

(q. v.)

Water-lilies (Nymphea), 12, 100

Water-melons, 145, 373, 419

Watusi, see Wahuma

Wau, sta. (7° 34' N. 27° 52% E.), 430, 464,
485, 496

Wawitu, see Wahuma

Wax-bill, see A madina

 

INDEX AND GLOSSARY,

Weaver-bird, 14, 34, 142, 258 ; see Hy.
phantornis

Welle ("river," Makwa of Zand, Kibali _

of Monbuttu, Obbi of Midi), 186, 187,
191, 201, 441

Werahanje, capital of Karagwa (1° 40' S8.
8:9 i.), 112

Wheat, 419

Wheat-ear, see Myrmecocichla

White Nile, ascent from Khartim, 434

Wichwezi, aborigines of Unyoro, 92;
soothsayers, 112, 137, 285

Widow - birds, 142, 379, 389 ; see also
Euplectes, Penthetria

Wilson, Rev. Mr., at Rubaga, 49, 522

Wira or Vira, dist. (south of Bufi), 321

Wodbala,. khor (3° 58 N, 32° 51' BE.),
247

Woll, tribe (8° 10' N. 38° 15 E.), 244

Woodpeckers, in Unyéro, 56 ; see also
Picus $

Woratta, a people to the south of Kaffa,
512

XANTHORPIA (bats), 221, 310

Xeropetalum, a plant, 368

Xerus leucumbrinus (a squirrel), 227

Xilopia sethiopica (a plant with aromatic
husk), 123, 190

YaBIrUs, see Mycteria senegalensis

Yalo, river, also known as Aire, Ire,
Nam Rol, or Gel (source, 4° 30' N. 29°
53' E.), 325-327, 333, 353, 354, 380,
386, 387

Yam (Dioscorea alata) 106, 260, 313, 449

Yambuya, vill. (1° 10' N. 24° 50° E.), xxii.

Yangara, a Monbuttu chief (at Nenja,
8° 20' N. 28° K.), 105, 205, 206, 445,
446, 448

Yei, river, see Ayi

Yembe, khor (4° 2 N. 30° 40' E.), 368

Yere, vill. (5° 35 N. 30° 18" E.), 854

caverns (5° 48" N. 30° 22" E.), 318

Yibi, khor (4° N. 32° 4' E.), 257

Yodzi, dist., near Labore, 262

Yusaia, vill, (8° 42" N. 32° 30' K.)}, 254,
267

Yubs, khor (8° 15 N. 51° 57° E.), 100

Y ussuf Pasha Hassan, 413, 433-435

 

ZANDE or Nyam-Nyam, tribe (see map),
374, 439 (chiefs), 451; see also Makrakd,
Banjia, Iddio

Tanga, sta. (5° 4' N. 30° 45" E.), 857

Zanzibar traders in Uny6ro, 67 ; see Arabs

Zea mays, see Maize

INDEX AND GLOSSARY. 547

Zebras, 222, 228, 274 ; see also Equus Zizypl
_ 74; see als t yphus, a tree, the 1
Zexzno, aOszdé chief (5° 82' N, 25° 40' which éauses fish toerirsréailézd 215621129?
J Li} 452, 454 299, 318, 400 ar wok &
2671211 ‘nga. Istockade Zonogastris phonicoptera (a finch), 252
Zingiruailiil’ ($5530, X. B1" 30° &.), ass gosterobs senegalensis (a bird), 252

a s 55 a TD" & D
Zinwg, brook (8° 25 N. 28° 48" Ef), 188 “58210 ias o
Zizygium, a bush, 262, 310 Zygoona, a butterfly, 325

THE END.

 

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