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‘ CITY 03 _THEBES,«

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DESCRIPTION OF A VIEW

OF

.‘EHE GREAT TEMPLE OF KARNAK,

AND THE SURROUNDING

NOW EXHIBITING AT .

THE PANORAMA, BRoAnwéyE

  

CORNER OF PRINCE AND MERCER STREETS,

NEW-YORK.

 

PAINTED BY ROBERT BURFORD,
' H ‘

'3»

FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN IN 1834,

BY F. CATHERWOOD.’

 

 

 

NEW-YORK: M

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PRINTED BY WILLIAM. OSB'ORNf \- “ ,~

‘3 *9 ‘ :;88 Williamjstreet. )3

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ENVIRON.
DESIGN

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THEBES.

“ Visit we next Karnak across the plain,
Smiling with richest verdure—ripening grain,
Where rows of andro sphinxes indicate,
In mutilated grandeur, the high state
Of old Diospolis, whose ruins cast
Ev’n still a vivid radiance o’er the past.
Columns, and temples, porticos sublime,
O’erpower the astonished senses with their vast
And solid masses—unsubdued by time.

One fine propylon ’bove the rest doth rear

Its splendid front aloft; superior far

To aught that Rome, or Greece, or earth can claim

Of ancient portal— _
EGYPT, BY SALT.—Canto 3.

EGYPT, in the earliest ages of the world, was aflourishing
nation; which, from its geographical position, acted a conspi-
cuous part in history; and its inhabitants, by the unanimous
testimony of the most ancient writers, were even in those days
a rich, potent, and enlightened people; who, although they have
long since disappeared from amongst mankind, their history be-
came a matter of conjecture, their language an enigma, and their
country subject to barbarians, have left venerable monuments of
their grandeur and power; in the rearing of which neither la-
bor nor expense was spared to insure durability, which have;

remained singularly preserved amid the shock of ages, the rage? i

of war, and the unsparing hand of barbarism, to attest the truth
of their former magnificence, and to prove the advanced state
of the arts at that remote period. No other country presents to
the observations of the curious so great a number of monuments-
of high antiquity, or so many vestiges of the earliest civilization
of man, especially Upper Egypt—the seat of the Pharaohs, where
the greatest works of these powerful and magnificent princes were
erected, and adorned with all that art could devise, or despotism‘
compel man to execute. It. cannot, therefore, be a matter of
surprise, that they have excited boundless admiration in the minds
of travellers from all countries; or that the most profound in—
terest has been manifested by the learned and ingenious of later
ages, in the wonderful remains and striking peculiarities of
“ that land of wonders where mystery hath yet unfolded but half
her treasures—where so many dark secrets of the antediluvian,
world still remain undeeiphered on the pillars of Seth”-—‘—-an inte-

($21,?

 

 

 

 

 

4

rest which must continue unabated in every nation where the
arts are cultivated, or their history considered worthy of notice.
Thebes—the renowned capital of the Egyptian monarchy;
the ruined, but imperishable city; the great Diospolis, famed by
poets and historians, of such prodigious antiquity, that the time
of its erection remains enveloped in obscurity; and the date of
its destruction is far anterior to the foundation of most other cities
-——presents one of the most extraordinary, extensive, and inte-
resting ruins extant—the concentrated labor of ages, which
neither time nor the fanatic rage of the conqueror of Egypt has
been able to destroy—eternal monuments of the art and industry
of the people who first civilized the world; it is difficult to de-
scribe, and impossible, without inspection, to form an adequate
idea of the vast extent, ponderous massiveness, and gigantic ap-
pearance of these majestic ruins. Temples, palaces, obelisks,
colossal statues, prodigious propyloe, forests of columns, and
avenues of spi'iinxes, still retaining all the sharpness of the chisel,
and the brilliancy of their original coloring; but shattered and
detached, as if in the very zenith of their beauty, by some mighty
convulsion of nature ;——amazement and admiration are continu-
ally excited at the grand and beautiful design, and the exquisite
symmetry, neatness, and fine taste displayed in the execution—
mixed with surprise and awe at the enormous size of the materials,
and the extraordinary human force that must have been employed
to produce such unparalleled ruin. Souini describes his sensa-
tions, “ not as simple admiration, but as an ecstasy which sus-
pended his faculties, rendered him immovable with rapture, and
inclined him more than once to prostrate himself in veneration
of such monuments———the rearing of which appeared to transcend
the strength and genius of man.” Denon declares “that the
whole French army, coming suddenly in sight of the ruins, with
one accord stood in amazement, and clapped their hands with
delight, as if the end and object of their glorious toil, and the
complete conquest of Egypt was accomplished and secured, by
taking possession of the splendid remains of this ancient metro—
olis.”
p'Of the foundation and early history of Thebes but little is
known; it was called Diospolis; or, the City of Jove, and is
- supposed to have formed part of the kingdom founded by Misrim,
the son of Ham, about one hundred and sixty years after the de-
luge ; for there is no-doubt that the city existed several centuries
before the time of Mteris, first king of Egypt (2200 B. c.,) and

is proved by many blocks of stone, with hieroglyphics being

found, in an inverted position, in the walls of the most ancient
buildings. Amunoph I., who assumes the title of Pharaoh,
(1 50 3.04») much embellished the city, as did also his forty-eight

t.- Vl
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5

successors: the last of whom Psamrnaticus was slain by Cam-
byses, who conquered Egypt in the third year of the seventy-third
Olympiad (525 B. 0.), pillaged the city, destroyed the temples,
and carried the treasures, together with the best artificers, into
Persia, to build the cities of Persepolis and Suza. Diodorus and
Strabo both speak in the most exalted terms of the opulence and
beauty of Thebes at this period. “ Never,” says the former, “was
there a city which received so many offerings in gold, silver, ivory,
statues, obelisks, 650. from different princes.” Strabo states the
circumference at one hundred and forty stadia, or eighty fur-
longs ; and Homer celebrates it as the city of one hundred gates.

“ Not all proud Thebes’ unrivall’d walls contain,
The world’s great empress, 0n the E yptian plain;
That spreads her conquests o’er a the sand states,
And pours her heroes through a thousand gates——
Two hundred horsemen, and two hundred cars,
From each wide portal issuing to the wars.”

These splendid remains of antiquity spread over the plain on
both banks of the Nile, towards the Thebean desert and moun—
tains of Arabia on the east, and to the foot of the Libyan chain
on the west. The grand temples of Karnak and Luxor, about
tWO'miles apart, nearly mark the extent of the city on one side—
and the Memnonium, the colossal statues, Medinet Aboo,
Gournou, and other ruins of a smaller size, whose names are
buried in the lapse of ages, occupy a space of at least five miles
of the opposite, or Libyan suburb. Of walls, if there ever were
any, no trace remains : it may, therefore, reasonably be presumed,
that the doorways and propyloe of the temples, were the hundred

gates through which the chariots issued; the large courts of .

these sacred buildings being probably the rendezvous, or per-
haps even the barracks of the troops. Temples and works, de-
dicated to gods or kings, alone remain ; and centuries appear to
have made but little difference in their appearance. Not a ves-
tige of a private dwelling of the same era is to be found, probably
owing to their having been built of unburnt bricks. A few de-
tached villages, as in the time of Strabo, occupy the site of this
once famous city—the miserable mud hovels of which serve to
heighten by contrast the magnificence of the stupendous ruins
by which they are surrounded.

From no one point can the eye embrace the whole of these ex-
traordinary remains at the same time; the portion that has, there-
fore, been selected as the principal foreground of the present Pano-
rama, is the Temple of Karnak, one of the most ancient, extenv
sive, and best preserved ; and may be taken as a fair illustration
of all these monuments of grandeur; for although there are no
two e'Xactly alike, yet in simplicity of outline, regularfdisposition

b

_ .4 in. M:- 2.

 

6

of the several parts, and a certain tone of uniformity in the ma-
terial and workmanship, no striking difference can be discerned.
This great temple of the Egyptian Jove, is of such vast extent,
and is composed of such prodigious masses, that it almost suggests
the idea of a sculptured mountain: yet such is the beauty and
harmony with which its several parts are designed, and the mas-
terly and spirited style in which they are executed, that it stands
unique in the whole world. No doubt exists that. it is the tem-
ple described by Diodorus, as the most wonderful and ancient of
the Temples of Thebes: and that the ornaments, riches, and
workmanship, with which it was embellished, corresponded with
its extent. The area occupied by the various buildings connected
with it, is at least a mile and a half in circumference ; it is ap-
proached in several directions by Propylce, colossal gateways, or
moles, in themselves larger than many temples ; some ornament-
ed with statues of breccia, basalt, or granite, in sitting or erect
postures, from twenty to thirty feet in height; others having
dromos, with long avenues of sphinxes, and crio-sphinxes, one of
which runs through the city as far as Luxor; the whole being in
the best style of Egyptian architecture. This vast group of ruins
is covered both within and without by millions of beautifully exe—
cuted figures, hieroglyphics, and mysterious sculptures z—every
wall, portico, column, and architrave, with symbolical represen-
tations of the divinity, laws, and mysteries of religion; battles
on horse and foot, sieges, triumphs, sacrifices,glory in war, and.
luxury in peace; clearly evincing the military prowess of the
early Egyptians; and eminently calculated to increase the res-
pect, homage, and adoration of those who were admitted into their
holy sanctuary. These sculptures, which are executed in a
curious way, are striking specimens of skilful art, which the
climate and retired situation, have preserved in many instances as
perfect and as fresh in color, as if they had been the work of the
last century.

The progress that has been made in the science of hierogly-
phics—although the interpretations is by no means completely
established—proves portions of this temple to be of prodigious
age. Successive monarchs, each anxious to surpass his prede-
cessor in the size and beauty of his work, and to record his piety,
virtues, or conquest—have made additions at different and much
later periods; some even since the Persian conquest; for al-
though that event transferred the seat of empire to Memphis, it
did not all at once destroy the importance and high celebrity of
the capital of the Thebaid.

From whatever situation this splendid temple of pagan wor-
ship is viewed, the efl’ect is striking and wonderful, and cannot
fail to impress the intelligent beholder with awe and astonish-

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merit. At a little distance the sublime conception, the noble
gateways, the magnificent halls, and towering obelisks, are ob-
jects of pleasure and interest: but when on a nearer approach,
the immense masses of the hardest stone become apparent—when
the labor necessary to detach these masses from the original
rock is considered, the distance they were brought from the
quarries, the herculean task of hewing, polishing, and fixing :—
when the eye contemplates the painting and sculpture, characters
of unknown import, symbolical of the mysteries of the worship
celebrated therein, or of the great deeds of a race long passed
away, the mind is insensibly carried back to the illusions of for-
mer ages, and is lost in admiration of a people possessed of the
moral and physical means of completing such wonderful under-
takings, so far exceeding all modern exertions of man’s strength ;
which, although they may want the powerful classical associa-
tions, inseparably connected with Greece and Rome, yet become
doubly interesting, when it is‘ remembered that they were raised
by the people, to whom those nations were indebted for the arts,
sciences, and learning. —

The natural scenery around partakes much of the austere
character of the ruins, and adds to the grandeur of the whole.
To the east lies a small tract of cultivated country, interspersed
with palm trees; beyond which spread the dreary deserts of the
Thebaid, arid and parched, backed by the immense and pic-
turesque mountains of Arabia. Towards the west, the Nile, the
fertilizerbf Egypt, silently flows through the city. At this
season a narrow silvery stream, its banks bounded by fresh and
beautiful verdure, brilliant as the emerald ; luxuriant corn-fields,
and fineplantations of palms, finely contrasting with the barren
sands beyond; and the bare and pointed mountains of the Libyan.»
chain by which the view is closed. In the fore-ground a small
caravan of pilgrims, &c., who have just crossed the desert on
their way to join the great caravan to Mecca from Cairo, is re-
presented preparing to encamp for the night; the whole illu-
mined by the magic hues of the setting sun, whose last beams
falling on the projecting masses of the temples, where he was
worshipped with so much pomp—the obelisks and the white
rocks, touching them with the varied and glowing tints of the
rainbow—produces a scene of so truly magnificent and extraor-
dinary a character, that the whole world cannot produce its
parallel.

 

EXPLANATION OF THE ENGRAVING.

NOI 1-”‘Arab Village-

A small village containing about three hundred inhabitants, generally called
Karnak. The huts are built of straw and mud, with supports of palm or sycamore;
the whole, with the exception of a considerable Indigo manufactory, belonging to
the Pacha, presents a scene of poverty, desolation, and ruin. The Arabs till a
small portion of the banks of the river, for the support of themselves and cattle, but
not more than want absolutely compels them to do. Their principal dependance is
on what they receive as acting as guides, or excavators to travellers, and the sale of
various small antiquities which they find in the ruins or tombs. -

N0: 2l_!he Nile-r

This most magnificent river of the ancient world, to which Egypt owed its
rincipal wealth, rises in Abyssinia, takes a circuitous course through Nubia and
gypt, and a little below Cairo falls into the Mediterranean. The part here
seen is about a quarter of a mile across. On the annual rising of this river from
the rains which fall between the tropics, depends the fertility of the country;
the rise generally commences in June, and about the middle of August, when
it has generally attained the height of from eighteen to twenty cubits, it is ad-

mitted into the canals of the interior, accompanied by great rejoicings; it very '

shortly after begins to fall, and gradually leaves the land, which at this time
assumes the appearance of a vast lake, the towns and villages being on' high

round form islands. The extent of the inundation of course depends on the

istance of the mountains on either side, when the flood subsides the vegetation
is extremely rapid, and the increase wonderful; the natives immediately plant
their doura, indian corn, millet, rice, &c., clover and barle for their horses, and
beans for their camels, and a few esculent vegetables. ’the crops are gathered
in from two to three months, when a second is immediately planted, the ground
being prepared by means of artificial irrigation; the water of the Nile, by the
PerSIan wheel, and other more simple inventions, being again distributed over
it. ’The boats usually employed on the Nile, are called cangias; they have
a covered deck, and one or two cabins; when the wind serves they hoist im-
mense sails; when it is unfavorable the oars are used, or the crews swim to
the shore and drag them.

No. 3.—-Medinet Aboo.

One of the four grand temples mentioned by Diodorus Siculus. It stands on,
an artificial mound of considerable extent, reaching nearly to the foot of the
mountains; the same enclosure comprehends three distinct but connected build-
ings. The original founder was the same king who erected the great obelisk at
Karnak. Thothmes II. and HI. continued the work. Rameses III. adorned the
outside with sculpture, and other monarchs to the number of eleven have made
additions. The first temple consists of the usual propyloe, three courts and a
portico, which conducts to the Adytum or most holy part, which is an f isolated

9

building surrounded on three sides, by corridors of pillars, and on the fourth, by
several small chambers, ornamented with very curious sculpture. The first and
largest propylon bears the names and soul tures of Pto emy. Lathyrus, and
Dionysius. In the third court the early Christians of the Coptic church, about
the fourth century, formed a place of. worship, erecting an altar and concealing
the pagan sculptures by mud; the Size of the church and the remains of the.
houses of crude bricks in the court, prove the Christian population to have been
considerable. The second and third buildings are the palace, and great temple
of Rameses III. of vast size and beauty; the apartments of the king are in a very
dilapidated state, but in those that remain are curious sculptures of the amuse-
ments, and domestic life of this extraordinary people. From the palace a
dromos of two hundred and sixty—five feet, two immense propylce and two
extensive courts ornamented with collonades of osiride pillars, leads to the main
temple, all the walls of which are covered with military and religious sculptures,
initiatory rites, and sacred mysteries; thousands of figures in the most lively
attitudes, and excellent preservation; the adytum and various chambers beyond
are completely blocked up by rubbish; the whole was about five hundred and
seven feet in length; in the second court are the remains of another Christian
temple, to erect which, various parts of this noble pile were destroyed. To the
south-west is a low plain, surrounded by high mounds of sand or alluvial soil,
about seven thousand feet in length, by three hundred in breadth, probably an
ancient lake or hippodrome. A smaller one about fifty feet square, and faced with
stone, is attached to the first temple.

No. 4.——Statues of ’Memnon, ac.

,, Two immense colossi, called Shamy and Tamy, which appear to have stood
at the head of a Dromos of considerable extent, ornamented with other statues,
leading to a temple of which but few vestiges remain. The easternmost of these
figures is the celebrated vocal statue of Memnon, so long the admiration and
wonder of the ancients. Previous to the time of Strabo this statue was thrown
down, as he was told, by an earthquake, but more probably by order of Cambyses,
and was repaired about the time of Juvenal. They are nearly equal in size, and
about forty feet asunder, the material is a quartzy sand-stone highly Crystallized;
the height is about forty-seven feet, or with the pedestal sixty. The vocal statue
has been repaired with grit-stone, several pieces forming the body and shoul-
ders, the head being one block. The other statue is of one stone only; a line

.of hieroglyphics down the back, gives the name of Amenophis 111., but does not

mention the time of their erection, or repair. On the leg of the statue towards
the north, are inscribed the names of many ancient and illustrious persons, who
came from Rome and Greece to hear its vocal powers. The sound was uttered
about the first hour after sunrise, and is said to have resembled the sudden
snapping of an [harp string, or the ring of sonorous metal. Mr. Catherwood
discovered in the lap of the figure a stone, which on being struck by a hammer,
emitted a shrill metallic sound, also a recess in the back of the statue to conceal
aperson, which convinced him, that it was one of the many delusions practised
by the Egyptian priesthood. The figures are represented seated on thrones,
which are ornamented with the god Nilus and various plants peculiar to the
river. By each of the thrones are two female figures about eight feet in height,
probably the wife and mother .of Amenophis. These vast colossi are without
grace or expressrpn, but their immense Size, and attitude .of dignified repose,
gives them an air of conSiderable majesty; they are very much disfigured in
many parts, apparently by human Violence—their breadth across the shoulders is
eighteen feet. ~

 

10

No. 5.—Memnonium.

The Temple called Memnonium or Palace of Rameses II., is one of the most
elegant, symmetrical, and interesting of the temples of Thebes. And from this
cause was, perhaps more than any other, defaced by the Persian conquerors.
It is fronted by a prodigious but ruinous propylon, and approached by a court
one hundred and eighty feet wide, by one hundred and forty feet long, having
double rows of columns on either side; in this court stood a statue of Rameses,

enerally called the Memnon, from which the building has been miscalled the

emnonium; it was of red granite from Syene, and from the remains which are
scattered about must have been the largest and most noble statue of a single stone in
Egypt, or probably in the world. The shoulders which are perfect measure sixty-
three feet round; many other parts have been cut up by the Arabs for mill-stones;
thelabor and expense of erecting it must have been immense, and the power used to
destroy it of no mean description. Mr. Catherwood calculates, that this statue with
its pedestal weighed when whole about one thousand tons. From a second large
statue in this building, the head called by the name of “ Young Memnon,” in the
British Museum, was brought by Belzoni. From this court a flight of steps
leads to a second, not quite so large, two of the sides of which have pillars
sculptured into a representation of Osiris, the otherltwo have circular columns;
hence three flights of steps, and doors of black granite, lead to the grand hall
one hundred and thirty three feet by one hundred feet-twelve columns in two
rows down the centre, with fine spreading capitals rise to the height of thirty—two
feet, and are twenty-one feet three inches in circumference. Eighteen other
columns, smaller, and shorter, on each side, six in a row, support the flat stone
roof, which is painted blue, studded with stars, and representations of the
sacred bird. The higher pillars in the centre having square openings, for the
admission of light and air. Various pedestals remain from which statues have
been destroyed or carried away to enrich the cabinets of Europe. To this hall
succeeded three central, and six lateral chambers, two only of which remain;
these probably formed the private apartments of the king. The various sculp-
tures which adorned the walls of this building, were singular displays of the
science, opulence, and great deeds of the Egyptians, one thousand five hundred
years before the christian era; they represent battle scenes by sea and land,
sieges, processions, oblations to the gods, astronomical subjects, &c., of the time
of Rameses 1. Homer, it is thought, here studied many of the fine battle scenes
of his Iliad. An inscription on the architrave, mentions that it was erected by
Amunmai Remeses, to the honor of his father Omunre, king of gods, &c. ; the whole
building is above six hundred feet in length. In the vicinity of this temple, are
various other buildings and statues, in a very ruinous state.

No. 6.——Gournou.

The village of Gournou stands about a quarter of a mile from the river, where the
cultivated plain joins the sands, and by the road to the tombs of the kings. From
the ruins of numerous unburnt brick houses, it appears to have been of considerable
extent, but is now nearly abandoned, the caves of the adjacent rocks offering more
secure, and less expensive habitations'. The palace orternples consists of many
courts, and apartments ornamented With sculpture, but is in so ruinous a state, that
it is difficult to make out either its plan or extent.

No, '7.—3eban el Malook.

.The ports or gates of the kings. The necropolis or celebrated .caverns exca-
vated in the mountains, known as the se ulchres of the ancient kings of Egypt,
to which the passage called Beban el alook, leads through a narrow gorge,
flanked by barren and almost perpendicular .rocks, rank amongst the most extra-
ordinary and interesting of the works of this wonderful people, and are astonish-

a
can.“

 

.v.

 

11

ing efforts of human labor and patience; many of the sepulchres were opened at a.
very early period, probably by the Persians in search of plunder. Diodorus men;
tions forty-seven. In the time of Ptolemy Lagus seventeen only were known.
Strabo mentions forty having been opened; at the present time about twenty are
accessible. They consist of many apartments filled with paintings and sculpture
in the highest state of preservation, depicting in glowing colors, and with Chinese
fidelity of outline, the manners, customs, amusements, punishments, &c., of every
department of life, from the kitchen to the saloon, from the but to the palace; exe-
cuted with taste, nicety, and richness of coloring, and proving the wonderful pro-
gress the Egyptians had made at this early period, in the refinements, luxuries, and
various arts oflife. The tomb of all others pre-eminently conspicuous, both for the
beauty of its sculpture and state of preservation, is that opened by the unfortunate
Belzoni, described page 234 of his 4to. work; its length altogether is three hundred
and twenty feet, and its perpendicular depth ninety feet; in its last apartment was
found the beautiful alabaster Sarcophagus, now in the museum of Sir J. Soane.
Bruce’s, or the Harpers’ Tomb, is also of great interest, (Bruce, Vol. I. p. 126.)
The name of Rameses III., and of his father and predecessor, occurs amongst the
hieroglyphics; the apartments are painted with a representation ofa kitchen, fishing
and fowling scenes, the fruits, flowers, and herbs of the country, boats, warlike
arms, agricultural scenes, specimens of furniture, vases, pottery, baskets, &c., and
in the last are represented two harpers, playing before the god, from which the tomb
takes its name; from one apartment a large granite Sarcophagus was removed by
the late Mr. Salt. Near are also the tombs of the wives and daughters ol'many of
the most ancient kings; they appear to have suffered from the effects of fire, and are
much defaced. A secluded path leads hence to the valley of Dayr el Medeeneh
where are many very ancient tombs, and mummy pits; one tomb of the family of
Amenophis, presents the brick arch, at the early period :of more than fifteen centuries
before Christ, and proves the dryness of the climate to. be such, as to admit unburnt
bricks to stand uninjured a period of thirty—four centuries.

No. 8.—-Iuibyan Mountains.

An immense chain of mountains, barren, rugged, and steep, presenting in many
places abrupt and extraordinary precipices; the average height in the neighborhood
.of Thebes is 1200 feet. They are composed of horizontal and regular strata of
calcareous stone, more or less soft and white, intermixed with large mammilated
and concentric flints. At their base is a vast accumulation of sand, which, dis-
tributed by the winds, is gradually encroaching on the cultivated plain.

No. 9.—Grand Bropylon.

The first grand propylon, or principal entrance to the Temple of Karnak,
which, from its colossal size, commands admiration, was approached from the
Nile by a Dromos, or paved way, through an avenue of crio sphinxes, with rams’
heads of large size. Immediately before the entrance stood two gigantic sta-
tues of Rameses;—who added the propylon and first court, thirteen cen-
turies before the christian era. The one side retains great part of its original
height ;-—-the northern has lost its summit and cornice; on the top is a small
hut, which has been the dwelling of Mr. Burton, and several other travellers.
This propylon appears never to have been finished; the stones are in a rough
state, not hewn or embellished on any of its sides-excepting after a la se of
many thousand years by the astronomers who accompanied the division of
Dessaix, a French eneral under the command of Bonaparte, who have engraven

on it the latitude an longitude of many celebrated places in Egypt. This propylon,

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Which is four hundred feet long, and forty in thickness, would have been one of
the most imposing monuments of Egyptian architecture, the size and solidity of
the building giving it rather the appearance of a fortress, than the entrance to a
temple. The addition of, ne or more of these ornaments, was permitted as an
important favor to the anoient kings of Egypt ;,who, from their pious or beneficent
acts, or warlike exploits, became entitled to perpetuate their names, by ennobling
the mansions of their gods. The buildings appear to have been first roughly
raised, and afterwards polished and ornamented ;—the eight cavities and square
openings in the upper part, which appear in most of these buildings, long puzzled
the curious. A sculptured painting in the temple, at last furnished an explanation——
where they appear filled by great trees or masts, spliced as at the present day, hav-
ing‘ at theirextremities pikes, to which are attached banners, and long streamers;
they are placed vertically in the sockets, and braced down by clasps—the machinery
connected with them must have been very curious.

No. 10.—G-reat Court.

A large open court, two hundred and seventy-five feet in length, by three hundred ,

and twenty-nine in, breadth, having a covered corridor on either side; supported by
a double line of columns fifty feet in height down the centre. The only one
of. which that is perfect appears above the building, and bear the names 'Tirhaka,
Psammaticus I., and Ptolemy Psyscon. The walls are all ornamented with
sculptures, several of which at the west corner bears the names of the 22d dynasty.
The mounds of earth are supposed to have been raised by the Arabs as places of
defence. ‘

No. 11.—Side Temple.

4,

A small temple more recently added, which projects considerably into the court :
and beyond the walls the interior is about twenty-five feet in height; but it is so
buried in sand, that only. the cornice‘is VlSlbIe. Through this temple, which is
divided into three parts, and some small chambers, was the entrance to the temple
from the grand avenue to LuxOr.

No. 12.—Iaateral Entrance.

The sculptures near this doorway are the names of the towns taken by the
first Sheshonk in his expedition against Jerusalem (971 B..C.)‘ A similar entrance
appears also on the opposite side of the court—the blocks which compose them are of
immense Size.

No. 13.—Second Propylon.

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Forming the entrance to the hall of columns. It was ornamented with two colos-
sal fi 'ures of rose colored granite, now broken and defaced, and a small vestibule.
The intel of the doorway beneath is formed of a Single stone forty feet ten inches
long. This propylon is covered with curious sculptures, principally religious, many
of them added by Ptolemy Psysconuby whom it was repaired. The entrance is
twenty feet wide, and sixty-three feet high.

 

 

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No. 14.—Hall of Columns.
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This splendid and magnificent hall was added to the temple by Osirei, the father
of Rameses II. (1380 B. c.) It is one hundred and seventy feet in length, three
hundred and LWenty-nine in width, and above eighty in height. Down the centre
are two rows, each of nine massive columns, sixty-six feet high, without the
pedestal and abacus, and twelve in diameter, with rich, spreading, bell-shaped
capitals, generally termed the full-blown lotus; these are crowned by low plmths,
covered with sculpture, admirably proportioned, and gorgeously painted of the lotus
and buds alternating. On either side are seven rows of nine less gigantic columns,
forty-one feet nine inches in height, with capitals of the half-expanded flower.
The two first rows next the centre have an architrave, cornice and moulding,
in the usual ornamental style, supporting a number of plain square pillars, which,
rising to the height of the middle rows, sustain the loftiest part of the roof;..the
interspace between forming large windows, from which a fine burst of light flOWed
into the hall—broken and mysterious—preparing the mind for the mysteries of the
sensual and fascinating worship there celebrated. The plinths of the side columns are
nearly cubical; upon these are laid large blocks of stone transversely, reaching
,from the centre of one column to that of the adjacent one: large rafters or cross
beams of stone are laid across these, joining the two parallel rows of columns, over
which are placed other layers of stone, forming the roof; the outer projecting extremi-
ties of which, being curved, correspond with the cornice. The whole is built of
sandstone, as are most of the temples of Upper Egypt, which, in this dry climate,
resists the action of the weatherlonger than either granite or lime stone; the latter
is, howeVer, sometimes uSed for substructures. The sandstone quarries are at
fladjar Silsili, whose prodigious excavations have furnished materials for most of
the temples. It is an uniform compact granular stone, extremely hard when exposed
to a dry climate and hot sun : and preserves on the exterior of the temples a clean
sandy color. In the interior, where it is close or damp, nitre is formed in great
abundance, and attaches itself in large crystals to the walls; the stone then becomes
soft, is easily damaged, and peels off in large flakes. The enormous masses of
stone employed in this building, have been the admiration and wonder of all who
have seen them. The Egyptians are said not to have known the use of iron;
what instruments they used to cut, polish, and fix these ponderous stones, isa
mystery. One singular fact has become apparent by their ruin—which is, that the
cramps or tenons, by which they are held together, are of wood, dovetailed into
blocks of masonry. .

The sculptures and paintings which adorn every part of this immense building,
were executed by Osirei and his son, Rameses II. The historic scenes are in the
very best and most spirited style. On the north-east side they relate to the wars of
Osirei I. In the east, the first division represents the siege of a fortified town;—
the second, a battle in the field, where the king surrounds the enemy and slays
them;——thc third, the return of the king in triumph, with prisoners, and offerings of
gold, silver, vases, &c., to the gods of Thebes. The lowest division is another en-
counter in chariots, and by horse and foot—the Egyptians being again victorious;
and offerings of prisoners and spoil to the gods. On the south-east wall are a simi—
lar series of historical battles, pr‘ocessions by land and water, &c. On the walls
opposite the spectator, are the wars of Rameses II.—a continuation of the same
conquests. At the upper compartment of the north-west end, he attacks the enem ,

who are routed, and take refuge in a fortified town on a rock, which he storms. n ‘

the next is a battle in the field, where he takes many prisoners, and follows the re-
mainder to a fortified town, where he compels them to surrender. In all these the

king is on foot, armed with a shield and spear ;—in the lower line he is in his -

car, and storms several forts: the remainder is much defaced, but consisted of the
usual offerings of spoil and captives to the gods. The use of the coat of mail,
spear, battle—axe, &c., prove that the means of destruction were as various as at the
present day. Behind the side door of the hall, the scenes are again continued—
he attacks the enemy on foot and in his chariot, bowstrings the chief, and makes
oblations to the gods. In the lower series is a long tablet of hieroglyphics; and

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the battles continue along the wall of the court, where there is a siege,'in which

scaling—ladders are used—but the subjects are nearly obliterated. It is impossible

to conceive a more magnificent sight than the whole must have formed when per-

fect, and the ”immense area filled with admiring spectators. When lighted with

innumerable lamps of naptha, ‘the numerous priests and virgins in their gor-

geops attire; and the sacred fires burning—the scene must have been surpassingly
ril iant.

No. 15.-—1’ropylon.

This Propylon, now forming the eastern end of the great hall, formed the extent
ofthe temple in the time of Thothmes III., as is proved by the holes for the flagstones
facing inwards. It is similarly ornamented with the others, and has on its outside
the representation of two immense boats, the one fifty-one feet, the other forty-five
feet long, with numbers of persons on board.

In. 16.—Gourt of the Ancient Temple.

A court having corridors at the sides, formed of osiride figures, formerly orna-
mented with two obelisks of rose granite, one of which has been thrown down
and broken by human violence. A small propylon at the extremity forms the
pntralgce 5% the next court: there is also an entrance at right angles opposite propy-
on, o. . "

No. 17.—Second Court.

The second court of the ancient temple, formerly containing two immense obe-
lisks of rose granite, dedicated to Amunre, by Amunneitgori, in honor of Thothmes
I., who lived in the time of Moses (1532 B. 0.); one has been thrown down and
partly destroyed by the Arabs, who cut it for mill-stones; the one standing was
presented to the English nation by the Pacha of Egypt; it is ninety—three feet and a

alf in height, without the pedestal (which is covered on all four sides with hiero-
glyphics, the only instance that has yet been discovered); and eight feet square at
the base of a single stone. The court is ornamented with osiride figures. Obelisks
were generally raised in honor of the sun, and in imitation of his rays. Each

‘ monarch vied with his predecessor in their height and beauty. They are covered

with hieroglyphical writing, columna and horizontal; varied representations of the

.royal conqueror making oblations to the gods, or receiving their blessings for his

public works, piety, or munificence.
No. 18.—-'.Ehird Court.

A small court, divided from the former by a propylon, and ornamented in the
same style, with two small obelisks, one of which only is standing. There is also
a small temple, in which the paintings and sculptures are very perfect.

No. Ill—Granite Sanctuary.

The asylum of the temple, with a gateway and small vestibule, with pedes—
tals for figures, entirely built of rose granite, from the quarries of Syene, which
supplied most of the granite used in Egypt. It has been divided into three large
and several small chambers; and the walls were sculptured and painted With a

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

15

number of subjects admirably adapted to the worship of the Theban Jupiter; This
sanctuary was probably originally of sand-stone, and so ancient that the time of its
erection cannot be traced. Thothmes 111., about the time of the departure of the
Israelites, is mentioned as having rebuilt it of granite. It was also repaired by
Alexander the Great} The courts containing the obelisks, and the next court, No.
20, are evidently the most ancient parts of the building, and no doubt formed the
whole of the temple, until the time of Thothmes III.

No. 20.—I‘inal Temple.

A small court, containing a few polygonal columns, of the early date of Osirtisen
I., of the sixteenth dynasty (eighteen centuries B. 0.); and the contemporary of
Joseph. The court is filled with ruins of the same age, and contains tWO pedestals
of red granite, formerly supporting obelisks. ‘

No. BIL—Remains ofa Temple.

Erected by Thothmes III. The exterior wall is totally destroyed, with the excep-
tion of the north-east side, on which Thothmes is represented presenting the god of
Thebes with various offerings. Thirtyltwo pillars decorate the sides, and twenty-
five columns, in two rows, the centre, in which the established order of the architec-
tu‘ral details is changed, and the capitals and cornices are reversed, without increas-
ing the beauty of the building. A. few small buildingsrbetWeen the temple and the
final propylon, complete the plan.

No. ae.-Waus of Unburnt Bricks.

This wall appears to have encircled the who1e of the temple, and the minor build-
ings connected with it, enclosing a space not less than a mile and two-thirds in
circumference. Whether it was built since the Persian conquest, by the remaining
inhabitants, who confined themselves to their most hallowed temple; or whether it

*is of more ancient date, has not been satisfactorily determined: neither can it be

ascertained Whether the various buildings enclosed were connected, or partly sacred,
and partly secular.

No; 24.—Gultivated rlain.

A fine tract of fertile country, between four and five miles in extent, over which
the Nile flows during its rise. It forms, by its beautiful appearance, a striking con-
trast with the barren sands of the Thebean Desert beyond, which refuse the least
nourishment to the hardiest plant ;——through which is the route to Cosseir, a post on
the Red Sea, about one hundred and eleven miles distant. There are also extensive
granite quarries in this direction.

\

No. 26.—Re‘servoir.

This basin, or sacred pond, for the use of the temple, is three hundred and ninety
six feet on its largest side, and two hundred and forty on its smallest; it is entirely
lined with granite. It receives the water of the Nile, which either oozes throu h
the earth, or has some nearly choaked up under round channel; it is so strong y
impregnated with nitre, that it can only be used or cattle.

 

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ntinued by Remeses‘VIII af (1 ate havao »%an
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1nxes,termfhated yap ' :
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