FRONTIS

PIECE

"Washing-ton
JXnithtSc.

VIEW
OF THE

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI,
OR THE

EMIGRANT'S AND TRAVELLER'S

GUIDE TO THE WEST.
CONTAINING

A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THAT ENTIRE COUNTRY -,
AND ALSO

NOTICES OF THE SOIL, PRODUCTIONS, RIVERS,
AND OTHER CHANNELS OF INTERCOURSE AND TRADE .
*
AND LIKEWISE OF THE
CITIES AND TOWNS, PROGRESS OF EDUCATION, & C
OF EACH STATE AND TERRITORY.

* Westwag$Che star ofempire takes its way;^r—BERKELEY.
*

SECOND EDITION.

P i tlartrttyftfa:
PUBLISHED BY H. S. TANKER.
minimal
1834.

ENTERED, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1834, by H. S.
TANNER, in the Clerk's Office of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

INTRODUCTION.

T H E VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI is a portion of our

country which is now arresting the attention not only
of our own inhabitants, but also those of foreign lands.
Such are its admirable facilities for trade, owing to its
numerous navigable rivers,—such the variety and fertility of its soil,—the number and excellence of its
productions,—the genial nature of its climate,—the
rapidity with which its population is increasing,—and
the influence which it is undoubtedly about to wield
in giving direction to the destiny of this nation,—as to
render the West an object of the deepest interest to
every American patriot. Nor can the Christian be
inattentive to the inceptive character and forming
manners of a part of our country whose influence will
soon be felt to be favourable, or disastrous, to an extent corresponding with its mighty energies, to the
cause of religion.
To give a brief, and yet satisfactory, account of
this vast county, its resources, history, manners and
customs of the people, political sub-divisions, cities,
colleges, & c , is the great object of this work; in
which the author has studied to embody, in as small a
compass as possible, such information as he deems
most desirable and useful to the community. Whether he has succeeded in this effort, it is not for him to
pronounce an opinion. He can only say that he has
honestly endeavoured to do what he could.
There are three great classes of men for whose
benefit the author has endeavoured to prepare this
book.

IV

INTRODUCTION.

1. For those who desire to remove to the Valley of
the Mississippi, and there cast their lot. Such persons, whether natives of Europe, or citizens of our
Atlantic states, are, of course, solicitous to know as
much as possible about that vast region to which they
expect to remove. To procure such information, and
in such a compass that it could be soon read, has hitherto been almost, if not quite, impossible. Until Mr.
Flint and Mr. Darby, and especiallly the former, published their valuable works entitled the " Geography
and History of the Western States," and a " View of
the United States/' but little had been published
which attempted a systematic and extended description of that portion of our country. Some small
works only, or such as had reference to insulated
portions, had been written, if we except the books of
travels in that region which had appeared, but which
relate principally to the country along the Upper Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas, and Red Rivers. These
works are valuable, and will continue to be valuable:
but they are too large, and too general in their contents, to be read by the majority of those who are
about to emigrate to the West. Since a large portion of this book was written, a very valuable one has
been published by the Rev. John M. Peck, of Illinois,
relating mainly to the states of Illinois and Missouri.
To furnish to emigrants such information as they
desire, has been a primary object with the author
throughout this work. And he hopes he has succeeded, in a good degree, in the attempt, and if any
reader finds that much is here wanting, he will also
find much given, and perhaps as much as could be
given within the limits prescribed. For the object
has not been to make a large book, but a small and
comprehensive one.
2. This book is designed to give information to
those who purpose to travel, for amusement, health,
or business, in the West. And this class is now far
from being small. Every year, hundreds, and even
thousands, are making a tour through the whole, or

INTRODUCTION.

V

a part of the Valley of the Mississippi. And soon
the American, who has not made the tour of the Valley of the Mississippi, will be considered a man who
has seen but little of his own county. To know
somewhat of the routes which lead to the West, the
steam-boats, lines of stages, acdmmodations, cities and
towns, curiosities, literary institutions, manners and
customs of the people, &c. is certainly desirable to
those who are about to journey to that portion of our
country. Such persons will find, it is believed, much
of that kind of information which they need in this
volume. The accompanying maps, views of cities,
and sketches of their environs, will be acceptable to
such readers.
3. A third class, to whom the author entertains the
hope that this work may be useful, is composed of
those who desire to know more about the Valley of
the Missisippi, although they do not expect either to
travel or emigrate thither. There are thousands of
such persons in our eastern or Atlantic states. For
what intelligent and reading citizen can there be
among us who does not desire to know well the geography, resources physical and civil, literary institutions, and the moral and religious condition of every
portion of our country ? Americans are the last people who can afford, or should desire to be ignorant of
their own country, or any portion of it. And surely
we all must desire to know much of that portion of
it to which so many of our friends and relatives have
removed, and which may be the home of our posterity,
—especially when is superadded the interest which
the West is so intrinsically calculated to excite.
As a general remark, it may be said that our eastern citizens are but little informed with regard to the
" Great West." The author has met with many men
who are reputed to be well informed on other subjects,
but who are remarkably ignorant even of the geography of the western country, and who make the most
ludicrous mistakes when speaking of its rivers, the
relative position of its states, and the distance of its
1*

VI

INTRODUCTION.

towns, It is but a few months since he saw a book,
published in no distant city and within a year, in
which the fact is gravely stated, that the Valley of the
Mississippi contains about half a million of square
miles! And this is but a trifling error compared with
many that are daily made by men who ought, by this
time, to know more about that part of our country.
Perhaps it will not be improper to give, in this
place, a very brief analysis of this book, that the reader may know, at this stage, what he may expect to
find in it.
The first ten chapters contain a general view of the
Valley of the Mississippi. Beginning with a short description of the grand three-fold division of the territory of the United States, there follows an account of
the great Central Valley of North America, of which
the Valley of the Mississippi is a part. Then follows,
in order, a general Geographical description of the
Valley of the Mississippi; its grand sub-divisions
according to its large rivers; its climate in reference
to productions, its soil, minerals, forests, animals,
&c. A short historical account is next given of the
West, and reasons for expecting a very rapid and long
continued increase of its population. Then follows a
chapter on the climate of the Valley of the Mississippi
in reference to temperature and diseases. This article was written by Dr, Daniel Drake of Cincinnati,
and gives, in a very short compass, a more philosophical and satisfactory view of this subject than is to be
found elsewhere. This chapter, which the Doctor
kindly furnished at the request of the author of this
work, will well repay any man for the half hour's
time which he may spend in a careful perusal of it.
No man in the country is better qualified than Dr.
Drake, from long and close attention to this subject, to
do full justice to it. An account of the Indians who still
reside in the Valley of the Mississippi, and of the monuments of antiquity which abound there, follows next:
and some notices of the manners and customs of the

INTRODUCTION.

VII

people of the West, and of their pursuits, close the
general description of the Valley of the Mississippi.
From the eleventh to the twenty-fourth chapter inclusive, there is given a geographical, statistical, and
historical description of Western Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Kentucky,
Tennessee, Illinois, Missouri, Arkansas, Mississippi,
Louisiana, Alabama, Florida, and the regions west of
these states and territories, up to the Oregon (or
Rocky) Mountains. In the account of each state the
following particulars are invariably given. 1. A brief
outline of its constitution and government. 2. Its
surface, soil, productions, facilities for trade by rivers,
roads and canals, &c. 3. Cities and towns. 4. Education in common schools and academies. 5. The
extent of public land. 6. Historical notices; and
finally, general remarks, which may be useful to emigrants, travellers, and others.
The remaining chapters give a full account of all
the Colleges, Theological Seminaries, Medical Schools,
Asylums for the Deaf and Dumb, &c. Religious Denominations, Steam-boats; and the various routes by
which emigrants and travellers may visit that country, expenses of removing, and of travelling, to it, &c.
The above is a very brief and imperfect analysis of
a book which has been written solely with the view of
imparting some knowledge of a very large and interesting portion of our country. Should any one, upon
perusal, find in it nothing which he did not know before, let him lay it aside quietly, and remember that it
was not written for him, but for the less informed.
The author has had occasion, in preparing this work,
to refer to Flint's Geography of the Western States,
Darby's View of the United States, Peck's Guide to
Emigrants, Breckinridge's Louisiana, Williams' Florida, Judge Martin's History of Louisiana, Marshall's
History of the American Colonies and life of Washington, the American Almanac, the Quarterly Register of
the American Education Society, Western Pilot, the
Accounts of the Expeditions of Lewis and Clarke, Col.

via

INTRODUCTION.

Long, Col. Pike, and the Travels of Mr. Schoolcraft,
Mr. Tanner's map of the United States, &c. &c.
From these works he has obtained much information, and occasionally he has used the language of
their authors, where, from the alterations which he
found it necessary to make, he could not give it as
quoted.
But although much has been derived from works relating to the West, much more has been derived from
personal knowledge, and from intercourse with western men. The author was born in the West, and has
spent the greater part of his past life there, and has
been familiar from his youth with many of the scenes
which he has described. He has also repeatedly,
within the last three years, travelled extensively in
that portion of our country. In this book nothing is
stated but what he believes to be correct, though he
may have been misinformed on some points.
The maps which are placed in this book, the reader
will find useful. They will be particularly so to the
emigrant and traveller on account of the roads and
distances, from point to point, which are delineated on
them. Nevertheless if the reader has access to a large
and well executed map of the United States, or a good
atlas of the several states, he should avail himself of
them ; for the maps accompanying this work, although
good, are small, and cannot give a full exhibition of
every part of any state. The reader should desire to
be able to trace every river, county, &c. which is
mentioned in this book. Indeed no man ought, if he
could avoid it, to sit down to read a newspaper without having good large maps of our country, and, if possible, of the world hanging up within the range of his
eye.
A large number of letters respecting the Valley of
the Mississippi, written by the author of this work,
appeared originally in several of the newspapers.'*
* Particularly in the New York Observer, and the Sunday School
Journal; the former published in New York, the latter in this city.

IX

INTRODUCTION.

Some portions of them, greatly modified, are introduced into this work.
This is mentioned for the purpose of explaining the
fact of a similarity between these letters and parts 01
this book.
In the first part of this work, the name Rocky Mountains, is used to designate the mountains which bound
the Valley of the Mississippi to the westward. In the
middle and latter portions of the book, the reader
will perceive that the title Oregon instead of Rocky is
given to these mountains. This is the original name
of these mountains, and should have been continued,
instead of a name which is just as appropriate when
applied to any other range of mountains. In some of
the late English and French works on the geography
of North America, the appropriate name of Oregon
Mountains has been used instead of Rocky Mountains.
Philadelphia, September, 1832.
R. B,

INTRODUCTORY NOTE
TO THE SECOND EDITION.

THE first edition of this work, consisting of 1000
copies, having been sold, a second is now sent forth.
In this edition many improvements have been introduced. Much matter, in a condensed form, has been
added. And the entire work has been brought up, as
far as it can be done, to the present state of the West.
It is impossible—and it is unnecessary—to specify
these additions. The book will be found to be every
way improved, especially in those portions of it which
concern emigrants and travellers. The Public Land
Offices are mentioned, and the roads and canals leading
to that part of our country are described more minutely. I will only add that, throughout this edition,
the name, Oregon Mountains, is employed invariably,
instead of Rocky Mountains.
Philadelphia, October, 1833,
R. B.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
North and South America.—Brief Historical Sketch of the
United States.—Their Boundaries and Extent.—Threefold Division of the Territory of the United States,
CHAPTER II.
The existence of a great Central Valley in North America.
—Boundaries of that Valley.—A General Description of
it, and its. component parts or Basins. Boundaries of the
Valley of the Mississippi.—Boundaries of the Valley of
the St. Lawrence.—Contrast between these two Valleys.
—General Remarks,
CHAPTER III.
General Account of the Valley of the Mississippi.—Its Extent.—Subdivisions.—Geography and Physical Character,
CHAPTER IV.
Geography and Physical Character.—Valley of the Ohio,—
Of the Upper Mississippi,—Of the Lower Mississippi,—
Of the Missouri,
CHAPTER V.
1. Climate, considered in relation to the Productions of this
Region.—2. Minerals.—3. Soil. 4. Trees.—5. Animals,
CHAPTER VI
History of the Valley of the Mississippi,
CHAPTER VII.
Future Increase of Population,
CHAPTER VIII.
Climate and Diseases,
.
.
.
.
CHAPTER IX.
Indian Tribes, and Monuments of Antiquity, &c.
CHAPTER X.
Manners, Customs and Pursuits of the Inhabitants of the
Valley of the Mississippi,
CHAPTER XI.
Western Pennsylvania,
.
.
.
.
CHAPTER XII.
The Ohio River and its Scenery.—Western Virginia, -

CONTENTS.

XI

CHAPTER XIII.
Ohio,

139
CHAPTER XIV,

Indiana,

160
CHAPTER XV.

Michigan,

178
CHAPTER XVI.

Kentucky,

189
CHAPTER XVII.

Tennessee, -

201
CHAPTER XVIII.

Illinois,
CHAPTER XIX.
Missouri,
CHAPTER XX.
The Mississippi River and its Scenery.—Captain Shreve's
Snag-Boat.—Arkansas.—Regions which lie North of Illinois and Missouri, and West of Missouri and Arkansas,
CHAPTER XXI.
Mississippi,
CHAPTER XXII.
Louisiana,
CHAPTER XXIII.
Alabama,
CHAPTER XXIV.
Florida,
.
.
.
.
CHAPTER XXV.
Colleges, Universities, &c. CHAPTER XXVI.
Religious Denominations and Sects, CHAPTER XXVII.
Steam-Boats
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Hints to emigrants and Travellers respecting the various
Routes to the West, Expenses of Removal, and of Travelling, &c. .

215
235

251
262
271
290
301
310
325
332

349

GENERAL

VIEW

OF THE

M I S S I S S I P P I VALLEY.
CHAPTER I.
North and South America.—Brief Historical Sketch of the United
States.—Their boundaries and extent.-—Three-fold division of the
Territory of the United States.

T H E Continent of America lies between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans, and is westward of Europe and Africa, and
eastward of Asia. It stretches from 56° South, to about
80° North, and is upwards of 9,000 miles long, and from
1,500 to 1,800 in average breadth. It is divided into North
and South America, by the Isthmus of Panama, in 7° of
North latitude. SOUTH AMERICA contains about 6,434,200
square miles, 12,839,374 inhabitants, and embraces the
following states and countries:—Colombia, Bolivia, Brazil,
La Plata, Peru, Chile, Paraguay, Banda Oriental or Montevideo, and Guayana. Its mighty rivers are, the Amazon,
Orinoco, La Plata, and Magdalena; whilst the lofty Andes
and its branches are its mountains.

NORTH AMERICA

reaches from about the 7th degree of North latitude to the
shores of the Northern or Arctic Ocean, probably about
the 80th. It contains 9,075,051 square miles, and has a
population estimated at 23,006,344, and embraces the
states and countries of Guatemala, Mexico, United States,
and the British, Russian, and Danish possessions. The
Mississippi, St. Lawrence, Rio del Norte, Colorado, Oregon, and Mackenzie's, are its large and noble rivers. On
its western side stretches the Rocky or Oregon Mountains ; and on the east, the Allegheny range ; whilst in its
interior lie the great lakes or inland seas, Superior, Huron,
Michigan, Erie, Ontario, and many smaller ones.
2

14

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES.

Although America was discovered by Columbus in 149.2?
yet with the exception of Mexico, which was conquered by
Cortes in 1520, no permanent settlements, or colonies, were
formed in North America until 1607, when one was planted
on the James River in Virginia. In New York a colony was
planted by the Dutch, on the Hudson, in 1610. Another was
established at Plymouth, Massachusetts, in 1620, by a part
of Mr. Robinson's congregation, originally from England,
whence they had fled from religious persecution, but directly from Holland, where they had resided several years.—
This was the second English colony. As early as 1497,
the Cabots, John and Sebastian, had explored in some measure the coast from Newfoundland, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, down towards the Gulf of Mexico ; and in 1512,
Juan Ponce de Leon, a Spaniard, discovered the coast of
Florida : these two names, Newfoundland and Florida, were
the only names for the whole seaboard of our country,
until the name Virginia (a name given by Queen Elizabeth, or rather by Sir Walter Raleigh in honour of her,)
supplanted them as regards a large part of it. Many
unsuccessful attempts were made, both by the English and
French, during a period of more than a century, to found
colonies. The most famous of these were the calamitous
ones which were made under the auspices of Sir Walter
Raleigh, 1584-1587.
After 1607, colonies were successively planted from
Maine to Georgia, under charters from the English sovereigns. After having suffered much from oppressive and unjust acts of the Parliament of the mother country, and anticipating a continued disregard of their rights, the thirteen
original Colonies, after much deliberation, and a solemn invocation of the aid of the God of battles, declared themselves,
on the 4th of July, 1776, to be a free and independent people. In 1783, their independence was confirmed, and the
limits of the country defined. To the original territory of
the United States, the extensive region on our western
border, called Louisiana, was added in 1803, by purchase
from the French government, for the sum of $15,000,000 ;

15

UNITED STATES.

and in 1821 another important addition was made to our
territory in the acquisition of East and West Florida, on
the South ; which were purchased from Spain for the sum
of $5,000,000. The number of States has increased,
since 1789, from thirteen to twenty-four, besides three
territories, and a great extent of country in the West;
and our population has been more than trebled, so that it
has increased from 3,929,328 to 14,000,000.

LIMITS OF THE UNITED STATES.
Taken in its utmost extent, the territory of the United
States, as a physical section of the earth, extends from N .
lat. 24° 27' to N . lat. 49°, and from 10° E. to 54° W. long.
from Washington City. It is bounded north by British
North America; north-west by Russian America ; west
by the Pacific ocean; south-west by the Mexican states;
south by the Gulf of Mexico, and Cuba channel; and
south-east and east by the Atlantic ocean.
Miles.

This immense region has a limit in common with
British North America, from the mouth of St.
Croix River to the Oregon Mountains,
By an indefinite boundary from the Oregon Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, say
Along the Pacific Ocean from N. lat. 49° to 42°,
From 42° on the Pacific, along the Mexican border
to the mouth of the Sabine on the Gulf of Mexico,
Along the Gulf of Mexico, from the mouth of the
Sabine to Cape Sable,
Along the Atlantic Ocean, Having an entire outline of

-

3,000
600
486
2,300
1,100
1,800
9,286

The above differs a little from Mr. Darby's statement,
who makes the 51°, (in one place he seems to prefer the
54° 40' as the extreme northern limit,) to be the boundary
from the Oregon Mountains to the Pacific Ocean. But I
doubt the propriety of taking the 51st degree of north latitude, as the line of boundary from the Oregon Mountains.

16

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI,

That line is not settled ; but it will hardly be beyond the
49th degree. The Russians claim to 54° 40' of N. lat.|
and the British Government, in common with the United
States, claims the country west of the Oregon Mountains,
as far south as the 42d deg. of N . lat. It is to be regretted that our government does not look after this matter.*
The tide of population has rolled on, until it has almost
reached the foot of the Oregon Mountains, and soon it will
extend beyond those everlasting hills, upon the plains of
Oregon, as that region is now denominated.
The boundaries of the United States, when particularly
given, are as follows : On the north, the line between then>
and British America runs along the highlands, which separate the waters which flow into the Atlantic from those
which flow into the St. Lawrence, to the 45° N. lat.; thence
along that line to the St. Lawrence, and up that river to
Lake Ontario, through the middle of that lake, and lakes
Erie, St. Clair, Huron, and Superior, and the intervening
rivers or outlets, to the Grand Portage on the north-west
side of the last named lake ; thence across to a series of
little lakes which lead to Rainy Lake : down Rainy Lake
River to Lake of the Woods, through that lake to its northwest angle, and thence down a meridian line to the 49°;
along that degree to the Oregon Mountains—beyond these
mountains it is not settled, but will probably be continued
along the 49° to the Pacific ; along the Pacific shore to 42° ;
up that degree of latitude to a point due north of the Arkansas river; down that river to the point where the 100th
degree of longitude west from Greenwich intersects that
river ; along that meridian to Red River ; down Red River
to the 17° 30' W. Ion. from Washington ; down that meridian to the Sabine river, which it pursues to its mouth.—
On the south is the Gulf of Mexico ; on the east the Atlantic Ocean, and on the north-east the St. Croix river, and
* It is high time that the question of boundary on the north-west
from the Oregon Mountains to the Pacific Ocean should be settled.
As the territory to which it relates, is now comparatively unimportant
to any one, the question may be much more easily settled than at a
future day, when it will appear more valuable in consequence of the
proximity of population, and growing interests on each side. ^ T h e
difficulties in Maine would probably have been prevented, had suitably
attempts been made to settle the N. E» boundary in 1816, or '18^

UNITED STATES.

17

a line due north from that river to the Highlands, which
separate the waters running into the St. Lawrence from
those which run into the Atlantic Ocean.
Mr. Darby calculates the territory of the United States
at 2,257,374 square miles; or a fraction more than onetwentieth part of the whole land surface of the earth.*
Mr. Tanner estimates it, and I think, for reasons contained
in the foregping paragraphs, more accurately, at 2,037,165
square miles.
The territory of the United States is naturally divided
into three great sections; 1st, that of the Atlantic slope ;
2d, that within the great central valley of North America;
and, 3d, a slope or inclined plane, extending from the
Oregon Mountains to the Pacific Ocean.
Of these three divisions, the first and the last, or in other
words, the eastern slope, (that is the whole section which
lies east of the Allegheny Mountains, from Maine to Florida,) and the western slope, (which lies west of the Oregon
Mountains,) are far from being equal to the middle section,
commonly called the great " Mississippi valley," or basin.
For if we take the fifteen states which lie on the Atlantic
slope, viz. : the six New England States, New York, New
Jersey, Pennsylvania,')" Delaware, Maryland, Virginia,f
North and South Carolina, Georgia, District of Columbia,
and about half of Florida, we have an area of 384,580
square miles. And on the Pacific slope, according to Mr.
Tanner, we have 299,438 square miles, making a total on
these slopes of 684,018 square miles, and leaving to the
valley of the Mississippi, 1,353,147 square miles. From
this view, we learn the vast extent of the section of our
country which I am about to describe. In the next
chapter we shall ascend the Allegheny Mountains, and
take a view of the " Great Central Valley," as it is called,
and give its outlines, and some general description of it.
* View of the United States,
f Exclusive of the parts of those states which lie in the West,

2*

18

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI-

CHAPTER II.
The existence of a great Central Valley in North America—Boundaries of that Valley.—A General description of it and its component
parts, or basins.—Boundaries of the valley of the Mississippi.—
Boundaries of the valley of the St. Lawrence.—Contrast between
these two vallies. General remarks.

ANY man who will take the trouble of examining a well
executed map of North America, will at once notice the
fact, that there is what may, with propriety, be called a
great Central Valley extending through it, from south to
north. The outlines of this Valley are as follows : On the
east is the Allegheny range of mountains, which separate
the waters which run into the Atlantic Ocean from those
which flow into the Gulf of Mexico and the St. Lawrence.
This boundary may be considered as commencing at the
extreme point of Florida, and pursuing what may be called
the low dividing ridge of that peninsula, it passes into Georgia, separating the streams of the Chattahooche from those
which flow eastward, and thence follows the Allegheny
range of mountains to the north-east, more than 1200 miles,
until that range, which is almost perfectly continuous, terminates at the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in Lower Canada.
It may even be said to be continued in the low dividing
ridge which, on the north side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
runs through Labrador to Hudson's Strait, separating the
waters which flow into the Atlantic from those which flow
into Hudson's Bay. On the west, the Oregon Mountains,
which are a continuation of the Cordilleras of Mexico, are
its boundary, stretching north-west more than 2,500 miles
until they terminate on the Northern Ocean, near Behring's
Straits. These two ranges of mountains are more than 1,000
miles apart in the south ; and they diverge to a far greater
distance as they approach the North. They are of unequal
heights ; for whilst probably no point of the Allegheny system exceeds 7,000 feet, some of the highest portions of the
Oregon Mountains are believed to be much more elevated.

GREAT CENTRAL VALLEY OF WORTH AMERICA.

19

Both rest on very extended bases of granite, which in its
lowest position is seen at the falls of the rirers which flow
from these ' everlasting hills.'
On the south, this immense Valley terminates on the
crescent-like shore of the Gulf of Mexico; and on the north,
on that of the Northern Ocean. Its immense extent will
be perceived by a reference to the several subdivisions of
which it is composed. The principal of these are, 1st, the
valley of the Mississippi, or that vast basin which is drained
by the Mississippi river and its confluents, (including several smaller parallel streams which fall into the Gulf of Mexico from the same physical section,) containing at least
1,300,000 square miles; 2d, the valley of the St. Lawrence, embracing Upper and Lower Canada, and a part of
the United States, and containing 500,000 square miles ;
3d, the great basin which is drained by the numerous
streams which flow into Hudson's Bay ; and, 4th, the valley
of the Mackenzie's river, a very large stream, whose course
is more than 2000 miles in length, and which has many
confluents. The two last named sections of this Central
Valley contain at least 2,500,000 square miles ; so that
the whole Central Valley, including Texas, on the south
west of the Valley of the Mississippi, cannot embrace less
than 4,300,000 square miles !
It is remarkable that throughout this vast extent of
country, from the Gulf of Mexico to Hudson's Bay and the
Arctic Ocean, there is little that deserves the name of a
mountain. The dividing ridges which separate Mackenzie's
river from the streams which flow into Hudson's Bay, and
also those which separate the latter from the confluents of
the St. Lawrence, are of inconsiderable height, and are not
to be compared with the mountains which constitute the
eastern and western boundaries of the Valley. In fact, the
whole expanse of country in the central and northern parts
of this Valley, is remarkably level, and abounding in lakes.
Almost every river in this section of the Valley, is connected with several lakes. Mackenzie's river has Athapescow,
Slave, and other lakes. The Lake of the Woods, Winnepec, and others, are connected with the large river Saskatchewine, which flows ultimately into Hudson's Bay. And
indeed almost every little stream which flows into that bay,
either rises in a lake, or flows through one or more ; whilst

20

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

the St. Lawrence, for the first 1200 miles of its course, is
little more than a series of vast lakes or inland seas. And
the Mississippi too, although it is, in its main course, remarkably free from lakes, rises in the land of lakes, and
its sources are from almost a hundred little lakes or ponds.
It is a circumstance worthy of notice, that the great
rivers which drain the four sections (which I have called
basins) of this Central Valley, all rise in the vicinity of
each other, and on the western side of the Valley, and
three of them indeed in the ranges of the Oregon Mountains, and within a space of less than ten degrees of latitude.
The region stretching from the sources of the Mississippi
and St. Lawrence, north-west towards the sources of the
Mackenzie's and Saskatchewine rivers, is elevated, and
level in the eastern part, and broken or hilly, as you advance north-westward.
The lowest line from the Gulf of Mexico to Hudson's
Bay pursues the Mississippi to its source : thence it crosses
a low marshy country to the streams which flow into the
Lake of the Woods, thence down to Winnepec, and down
the outlet of that lake to Hudson's Bay. The day will come
when there will be a continued line of water communication
from one end of this' valley to the other, and abundant
facilities of commercial intercourse among the hundreds of
millions who will then people this vast and fertile region.
In a state of nature, in which almost this whole Valley
still is, it was a vast ocean of trees, save where its lakes
expand their waters, or where the prairies in the southwest prevail. This interminable forest was, and still is, the
home of the Buffalo, the Elk, the Deer, the Bear, the Panther, and a vast variety of other species cf animals, which
I cannot here undertake to describe, or even enumerate.
But what is infinitely more interesting and affecting, this
vast region long was, and is still, the abode of many tribes
of ignorant, degraded, benighted men, who deserve our
sympathy, and our aid in furnishing them with the means
of civilization, and of conversion to true Christianity.
The vallies of the Mississippi and St. Lawrence are the
chief, and almost only parts of this great Central Valley
which are inhabited, in any permanent manner, by civilized
men. And even the greater portions of these vallies are
the abodes of the uncivilized Indian, the wandering hunter

GREAT CENTRAL VALLEY OF NORTH AMERICA.

21

and trapper, and the beasts of the wilderness. As these
two valiies are those which are most interesting to us, I
shall devote the remaining portion of this chapter to some
general remarks respecting them.
I have already given the greater part of the boundary
of the Valley of the Mississippi. It is sufficient to say here,
that on the east the boundary is the dividing ridge from
the extreme southern point of Florida northward to the Allegheny mountains, along the dividing line of those mountains, through Georgia, North Carolina, Virginia, Pennsylvania, into the State of New-York , thence it deflects
*
westward, until it almost reaches the shores of Lake Erie ;
it then turns southward for some distance, and then pursues
a western course through Ohio and Indiana, and in Illinois
turns to the north , and separating the waters which flow
*
northward into Lakes Erie, Michigan, Superior, and the
Red River which flows into Lake Winnepec, from those
which flow into the Ohio, Mississippi and Missouri, it terminates at the Oregon mountains a little north of the 49°.—
On the west, the boundary of the Valley of the Mississppi
is the Oregon Mountains, down to about 41°; and thence
down the highest table land between the Arkansas and the
Red River on the east, and Rio Bravo on the south-west, to
the Gulf of Mexico, including Texas and adjoining parts of
Mexico; and on the south is the Gulf of Mexico. As described thus, it extends, exclusive of the Florida projection
through more than 20 degrees of latitude and 36 degrees
of longitude, and contains at least 1,300,000 square miles.
If any one will take the trouble of drawing aline with his
pencil on the map of North America, beginning at the
southern point of Florida, and dividing the streams which
flow into the Gulf of Mexico from those which flow into
the Atlantic on the east, the Lakes on the North, and the
Pacific on the west, until he terminates his course on the
Gulf of Mexico again, he will have the real boundary of the
Mississippi Basin or Valley ; and he will be struck with
two facts—1st. That the dividing line or boundary indicated
by his pencil mark, (which will exhibit the true separating
ridge) is remarkably crooked. And 2nd. That it is not a
mountain ridge, (whenMt runs through the mountain system) but a ridge, if 1 may so speak, in the basis of the
mountains—that is, in the table land on which the mountain

22

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ranges or ridges stand. This dividing line is not indicated
at all by any one mountain ridge ; as is proved by the fact,
that all the mountain ridges of the Allegheny system are
cut, indifferent sections of them, by rivers flowing directly
in opposite directions. In Georgia and North Carolina,
this dividing line is under one of the most eastern ridges of
the Allegheny mountains; but after it enters Virginia, in
its northward course, it changes over to the western ridges
—and in Potter county, in Pennsylvania, it is quite on the
western verge of those ridges. In the State of New York,
it leaves the mountains altogether, and does not enter them
again until it reaches Vermont; so that the Susquehanna,
Delaware, and Hudson Rivers cut through every ridge of
the Allegheny system.
The Valley of the St. Lawrence extends first south-east,
and then turns to the north-east, having the Gulf of St.
Lawrence as its base, whilst it reaches to the elevated flat,
marshy, table-land on which the Mississippi has its sources.
Sweeping down from this plateau to the south-east, and
then terminating in the north-east, it embraces a considerable slope on the south and east, which belongs
to the United States, including the whole peninsula of
Michigan, a large part of Ohio, the north-west angle of
Pennsylvania, and a great part of the state of New York
and Vermont. From the northern part of the last named
state, the highlands form its south-eastern boundary, in
that part of its course, down to their termination in the
British Province of Lower Canada. In giving the northern
boundary of the Valley of the Mississippi, 1 gave at the
same time that of the south-western side of the Valley of
the St. Lawrence. The northern boundary of this valley
is the dividing line of land which separates the waters
which flow into Hudson's Bay from those which flow into
lake Superior, Huron, E r i e , & c , and their great outlet, the
St. Lawrence River. Of course, it extends by a deflected
course eastward from the table-land which lies north-west
of the first named lake, to its termination in Labrador.
The Valley of the St. Lawrence, as described above,
contains about 500,000 square J§fles, of which near
75,000 are included in the large dMt small lakes, or inland
seas, which lie within its bosom.

GREAT CENTRAL VALLEY OF NORTH AMERICA.

23

Although the Mississippi and St. Lawrence rise on the
same elevated table-land, they are exceedingly diverse in
their characteristics, and pass through vallies as diverse as
are the rivers which give origin to their names. The
Mississippi is remarkable for its constant changes as to the
size of the volume of water which it rolls to the ocean :
the St. Lawrence is uniform throughout the year. A rise
of 30 feet in the former is less remarkable than that of 3
feet in the latter. The former is turbid and muddy, whilst
the latter is always limpid. The whole course of the one
is destitute of a lake of any consequence, whilst the other
is adorned with many large expansions of water. The
one annually swells, and overflows its^,banks to a great
extent—the other never doejs. The Mississippi flowing
from north to south, passes through a great variety of climate, and falls into the ocean in the region of almost
constant warm weather; whilst its great rival rises also
far to the north, winds down into the south as far as 41°
30', and then turns towards the north again, and finally ends
in its original climate of ice and snow. The Mississippi
divides above its entrance into the ocean, and pours its
waters through several separate channels into the common
reservoir ; whilst the St. Lawrence imperceptibly widens
into a large bay, which finally opens into a gulf of the same
name. The former, with twice the length, is supposed to
roll a volume of water far less than that of the latter. The
banks of the one for a thousand miles above its mouth, are
low and monotonous ; whilst those of the other generally
slope from the water by an elegant acclivity, and are beautiful when cleared of the forests. Much of the surface of
the Valley of the Mississippi is composed of prairie regions,
and grassy plains, where but few shrubs and trees are
found; whilst almost the whole Valley of the St. Lawrence, in a state of nature, is covered with interminable
forests. And whilst the tide is scarcely perceived in the
great river of the former, it often rises 20 and 30 feet in
that of the latter, and ascends more than 400 miles.
If it is true, that the ocean waters have greatly subsided
since the creation, and are now gradually diminishing, as is
the fact with regard to the Baltic ; the time probably was
when this whole Central Valley was submerged, and the
Appalachian or Allegheny mountains were islands in the

£4

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ocean ; and as the waters gradually abated, the highest
parts of the valley appeared, and streamlets began, of
course, to run toward their Ocean Father, and following
his gradually departing waves, became themselves expanded into lakes and wide rivers. That such has been the
history of the rivers which flow through this great Central
Valley, is manifest to any one who notices the corresponding appearances in the stratifications which are found in
their banks, which show that these river-channels were
formed by abrasion—that is, by the continued action of the
water, wearing away channels in a soil or ground which
was once continuous and uniform. There cannot be a doubt
that Lake Ontario has sunk, by its outlet, the St. Lawrence, breaking through, or rather washing away, the
barriers which once elevated it to the level of Lake Erie.
In the peculiar forms, if 1 may so speak, of these rivers,
we see a fine illustration of the wisdom and goodness of God.
It is manifest that all long rivers which flow towards the
north are peculiarly liable to excessive floods in the spring
season, when the snow and ice melt. For as the sun advances to the north, the upper or southern branches will
first pour down their floods upon the parent stream below,
which would soon be filled with ice, accumulated upon its
own unbroken bed, and which, when yielded, would spread
desolation far and wide. Now what resource has the St.
Lawrence to prevent this ? Its numerous and extensive
lakes, where the rising waters from above may be collected,
as in immense reservoirs; and before they can raise the
surface of the waters in these, the St. Lawrence is free
from ice. Hence the reason why this river varies so little
through the year in the volume of its waters. Now we
cannot have a conception of the terrible results which
would take place, if the Mississippi, which has not a lake
from its sources to its mouth, of any note, flowed northward, and entered into the Northern Ocean. And I believe
that we can scarcely find an instance of a very long river
flowing from south to north, in high latitudes, which has
not the admirable provision of lakes to contain and regulate
its immense volume of waters in the spring time.
I will only add, that the Valley of the St. Lawrence ought
to be an interesting country to the Christian and statesman,
<—to the one, because it contains many immortal beings.

GEOGRAPHY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER.

25

civilized and savage, whose moral cultivation is devoutly
to be desired; and to the other because it is capable of
containing a population of fifty millions, and is now the
cradle of what will one day be a great nation of freemen!
The preceding view of the great Central Valley of
North America will not prove uninteresting, I trust, to the
reader ; and it will have some bearing upon the succeeding
description of the Valley of the Mississippi, which I shall
commence in the next chapter.

CHAPTER I I I .
General Account of the Valley of the Mississippi.—Its Extent.—Subdivisions.—Geography and Physical Character.

HAVING spoken in the last chapter of the great Central
Valley of North America, extending from the Gulf of Mexico to the Northern Ocean, I proceed to give a general
description of the southern part of it, embracing all that
part of the United States which lies between the Allegheny
and Oregon Mountains, now called in common language,
the " Valley of the Mississippi." This vast region may be
described in a few words, as bounded on the North by the
Lakes, and the British possessions; east by the Allegheny
Mountains; on the South by the Gulf of Mexico; and
west by Mexico and the Oregon Mountains.
In the last chapter, when describing the several parts of
the great Central Valley, I gave the boundaries of what is
strictly the valley of the Mississippi. But, in the description
which I have just given, I have included under the name
VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI, the whole of that part of the

country which lies between the Allegheny and Oregon
Mountains, and the Gulf of Mexico and the Lakes.—
This is now the common, though somewhat vague acceptation of the title. It will be at once perceived that it includes
on the north, a strip of land, of variable width, which properly belongs to the Valley of the St. Lawrence; and on the
south-east it includes the whole of Alabama and parts of
Mississippi, Florida, and Georgia, which are not watered
by any branch of the Mississippi river, but which ar&so
3

26

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

much like this region in their physical features, as to be?
it is believed, properly considered apart of it.
The Valley of the Mississippi, as described above, contains more than 1,350,000 square miles, or considerably
more than two-thirds of the United States; and about one
twenty-eighth part of the whole land surface of the earth,
if we suppose with Mr. Darby, that surface to be equal to
38,840,000 square miles ; or one thirty-eighth part, if we
suppose, with Mr. Tanner, the land area of the earth to be
51,520,667 square miles. Leaving out the Florida projection, it reaches from the 29° to the 49° of north lat., or
about 1400 miles. ' Its outline or boundary exceeds 6,000
miles. From the sources of the Allegheny river to the
sources of the Missouri, the distance is fully 5,000 miles
by the course of the rivers, and from the sources of the
Tennessee to those of the Arkansas, the distance, in the
same manner, is nearly 4,000 miles.
The States, Territories, &c. which are included in the
Valley of the Mississippi, are the following. The areas
are from Mr. Tanner's estimates.
Square Miles.

West Florida,
.
•
Alabama,
.
Mississippi,
.
Louisiana,
.
Ohio,
.
Indiana,
,
Illinois,
.
Missouri, .
,
Kentucky,
.
Tennessee,
.
Michigan,
.
Arkansas,
.
West Pennsylvania, (or one-third of that state)
West Virginia, (or two-fifths of that state)
Mandan District
.
.
.
.
Sioux
do.
.
Huron
do.
,
Osage
do.
•
Ozark
do.
•

27,840
52,900
47,680
49,300
39,750
36,500
57,900
65,500
40,500
40,200
38,000
60,700
15,833
26,649
295,203
162,385
120,975
91,980
83,350
1,353,145

GEOGRAPHY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER.

27

If we were to include the parts of Georgia, North Carolina, and New York, which really belong to the Valley of
the Mississippi, we should have to add 25,000 square miles*
The extent of the Valley would then stand thus :
The States and Territories named above, .
1,353,145
Parts of Georgia, North Carolina and N. York,
25,000
Making a total of
.
.
.
1,378,145
Mandan, Sioux, Huron, Osage, and Ozark, are names
given, very appropriately, to the great regions on the
Upper Mississippi, Missouri, and Arkansas rivers, and
which have been commonly called the " North Western,"
and " Missouri Territories." Huron District is attached
to Michigan ; the other districts are governed, as far as
they have any civilized government, by the military Superintendants and Indian Agents, who are in the service
of the United States.

GEOGRAPHY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER,
This vast region may be considered as two great inclined planes, whose line of intersection follows the Mississippi
river to the mouth of the Ohio, up that river to the Wabash, along that river to its sources, and thence direct
to Lake Erie, by the Maumee river. This is the lowest
continuous line from the Gulf of Mexico to the Lakes.
On each side of this line, these planes ascend gradually to
the Allegheny and Oregon Mountains on the East and West.
The eastern plane is much narrower than the western ; consequently the rivers which flow down from the Allegheny
mountains towards the west, (or south-west as their course
generally is) are shorter than those which flow down the
western plane, from the Oregon Mountains. Down the for*
mer run the Ohio, commencing at the junction of the Allegheny and Monongahela, and its branches, the Kanawha,
Kentucky, Scioto, Cumberland, and Tennessee. Further
south, the Yazoo, the Big Black and the Homochitto, come
in from the east; whilst on the south-east, the Peal, Mobile,
Appalachicola, and many other smaller streams, flow directly into the Gulf of Mexico. Down the latter, (the western plane), flow the Upper Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas
and Red River, &c. &c., with their numerous tributaries,

28

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

If we except the Valley of the Amazon, probably tt(f
other valley on the globe will compare in size with that of
the Mississippi; and it surpasses all others in the richness and variety of its soil, and its general adaptation to
the support and comfort of civilized men. In extent it is
like a continent, being, in fact, more than one-third as
large as Europe : In beauty and fertility it is the most
perfect garden of nature; and by means of its thousand
streams, wonderful facilities are extended to every part of
it for commercial intercourse.
The Mississippi is the great river of this region. It rises
on the elevated table-land lying westward from Lake Superior. Its sources are a number of small lakes in that marshy region, in about 47° 47' north latitude. The St. Peter's, with ten or twelve tributaries, is the principal upper
branch of the Mississippi. Above the falls of St. Anthony
the Mississippi is five or six hundred yards wide. In latitude
39° comes in the Illinois, a noble stream, 400 yards wide at
its mouth, and navigable by boats almost 400 miles. A little
below 39° the Missouri discharges its mighty tribute. In
about 38° the Kaskaskia from the east joins the Mississippi.,
eighty yards wide at its mouth, with a course of nearly
two hundred miles, a great part of which, at some seasons
of the year, is navigable for boats. About 37° Comes in the
Ohio, called by the early French settlers, " La Belle Riviere," the " beautiful river." At its junction with the Mississippi, and for nearly 100 miles above, the Ohio is as wide
as the parent stream. Below 34° the St. Francis enters
from the west, having a course of 500 or 600 miles. A
little below 34° enters the White River, with a course of
1,200 miles, and with a mouth between three and four hundred yards wide. Thirty miles below, the Arkansas pours
in its waters, five hundred yards wide at its mouth, with a
course of 2,500 miles. In the state of Mississippi the Yazoo
comes in from the east, between two and three hundred
yards wide. Eighty miles below Natchez, and a little above
31°, the Red River enters, a stream nearly as long and deep
as the Arkansas. Immediately below that point, the Mississippi rolls its greatest volume of water. A few miles below
Red River it seen the first important bayou, or outlet, viz.,
the Atchafalaya,* that conveys to the Gulf by its own;
separate channel the surplus waters of the Mississippi.
* Commonly pronounced Chaf-fal-i'-o.

GEOGRAPHY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER.

29

Below the falls of St. Anthony, the Mississippi is half a
mile in width, and is a clear and tranquil stream. A few
miles below the entrance of the Des Moines, are rapids of
nine miles in length, which are a considerable impediment
to navigation. Below these rapids to the mouth of the
Missouri, the river is from three quarters, to a mile and
a quarter in width, with calm and transparent waters.
The Missouri wholly changes its character. It now has a
furious current, with a turbid mass of waters, and for a
distance of 200 miles, rough and rugged shores. From
the falls of St. Anthony to the Missouri, the current is at
the rate of two miles an hour; below the Missouri it is four
miles, and often more, per hour. Owing to accidental
circumstances, the impetus of the current is often shifted,
and the river tears up islands, removes the sandbars, and
sweeps away the alluvial soil, with all its trees and depo*
sites, to another place.
The sources of the Missouri rise among the Oregon
Mountains, through ten degrees of latitude, or near seven
hundred miles. The Yellow stone is its longest branch.
The Missouri is remarkably free from falls or rapids. After
leaving the Oregon Mountains, this overwhelming mass of
waters, though every where flowing with great rapidity, no
where swells into a lake, or rolls over a single cataract, in
a distance of at least three thousand five hundred miles to
the gulf of Mexico. At its junction with the Mississippi,
the Missouri rolls a volume of water twice as large as that
of what is called the Parent stream, and it far exceeds it
in length. Indeed, there can be no doubt that the Missouri,
with what is really its continuation, the Mississippi, is more
than 4,000 miles in length, and is the longest river on this
globe,* and unlike any other, it rises in the regions of
almost perpetual snow, and pours its waters into the oces n
in the region of the sugar cane and the olive.
The Ohio is, in a remarkable manner, gentle as it respects its current , and from Olean in Cattaraugus county
*
in New-York, to the Mississippi, over a distance of more
than 1200 miles, following its stream, at a moderately high
flood, meets, excepting the rapids at Louisville, with not a
single serious natural impediment.
* See North American Review, Vol. XVI. p. 60.
3*

30

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

In the next chapter I shall resume the consideration of
the physical features of the Valley of the Mississippi.

CHAPTER IV.
Geography and Physical Character.—Valley of the Ohio.—Of the Upper
Mississippi.—Of the Lower Mississippi.—Of the Missouri.

The Valley of the Mississippi has been divided by Mr.
Darby m\of our great subdivisions.* 1. Ohio Valley, length
750 miles, and mean width 2 6 1 ; containing 196,000 square
miles. 2. Mississippi Valley, above the junction of the
Missouri, including the minor valley of the Illinois, but exclusive of the region drained by the Missouri, 650 miles
long, and 277 mean width, and containing 180,000 square
miles. 3. Lower Valley of the Mississippi, that is, of the
Mississippi below the entrance of the Ohio river, including
White, Arkansas, and Red River valleys, 1000 miles long,
and 200 wide, containing 200,000 square miles. 4. Missouri
Proper, including Osage, Kansas, Platte rivers, &e. 1200
miles long, and 437 wide, containing 523,000 square miles.
This division, I would remark, is a convenient one—and
although I believe it makes these great subdivisions too
small, particularly the first three, yet I shall follow it in
the general remarks which I shall make in this chapter. I
need not inform the reader, that this arrangement leaves
out of view the extensive region in the south-east, embracing
a part of the State of Mississippi, almost the whole of
Alabama, West Florida, and that portion of Georgia
which is watered by the Appalachicola and its branches ;
and also Michigan Territory.
These sections will be described particularly when I come to treat of each State
and Territory separately.
The Valley of the Ohio is better known than any of the
others. It has much fertile land, and also much that is unfit
for cultivation, on account of its unevenness. It is divided
* View of the United States, Chap. VIII. from which the greater
part of the information contained in the present Chapter is derived;
and frequently is given in the language, slightly changed, of that
author.

GEOGEAPKY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER.

31

into two unequal portions, by the Ohio river ,• leaving on
the right or north-west side, 80,000, and on the left or southeast side, 116,000 square miles. The eastern part of this
Valley is hilly, and ascends rapidly as you approach towards the Allegheny mountains. Indeed, its high hills
are of a strongly marked mountainous character. Of
course the rivers which flow into the Ohio from the east,
viz. the Monongahela, Kanawha, Guyandot, Sandy, Licking, Kentucky, Green, Cumberland, and Tennessee, are
rapid, and abounding in cataracts and falls, which, towards
their sources, greatly impede navigation. The western
side of this Valley is also hilly for a considerable distance
from the Ohio, but towards its western limit, it subsides
into a remarkably level region. So that whilst the eastern
line of this Valley lies along the high-table land on which
the Allegheny Mountains rest, and where the rivers of the
eastern section of this Valley rise, which is generally at
least 2000 feet above the ocean level, the western line
has not an elevation of much more than one half of that
amount on the north, and greatly subsides towards the
Kaskaskia. The rivers of the western section are, the
Allegheny, Beaver, Muskingum, Hockocking, Scioto, Miami, and Wabash. Along the Ohio, on each side, are high
hills, often intersected with deep ravines and sometimes
openings of considerable extent, and well known by the
appellation of the " Ohio Hills." Towards the mouth of
the Ohio, these hills almost wholly disappear, and extensive level bottoms, covered with heavy forests of oak,
sycamore, elm, poplar, ash, and cotton wood, stretch along
the banks of the river. On this lower section of the river^
the water, at the time of the spring floods, often overflows
these bottoms to a great extent. This fine Valley embraces a population exceeding 3,000,000, which is nearly
three-fourths of the whole population of the entire Valley
of the Mississippi. The western parts of Pennsylvania and
Virginia, the entire states of Ohio, Indiana, and Kentucky,
the larger part of Tennessee, and a small part of Illinois,
are in the Valley of the Ohio.
The Upper Mississippi Valley, (lying above the entrance
of the Missouri) has been imperfectly explored, especially
beyond the falls of St. Anthony. It possesses a surface
far less diversified than the Valley of the Ohio. According

32

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

to Mr. Schoolcraft, the sources of the Mississippi river
have an elevation of 1330 feet above the ocean level. This
is about the elevation of the level, marshy, table-land, which
extends from Lake Superior to the Missouri at the Mandan
Villages. Throughout the whole of the Valley of the
Upper Mississippi, of which we are speaking, there is nothing which deserves the name of a mountain. There is
not probably on the earth an equal extent of territory, which
is of so level and monotonous a character. The highest
sources of the Mississippi river originate in the numerous
small lakes which lie between the sources of the Assiniboin
and Lake Superior. On the western side, it receives, as
you descend from its sources, the Leech-lake river, Sac,
Pine, Crow, Elk, Upper Jaway, St. Peters, Turkey, Little
Maquaquetois, Galena, Great Maquaquetois, Lower Jaway,
and Des Moines. From the eastern side, the Round-lake,
Sandy-lake, St. Francis, Rum river, St. Croix, Chippeway,
Black, Ouisconsine, Riviere au Fievre, Rock, and Illinois, pour in their several streams. It will be readily perceived that this Valley has great advantages for internal
navigation and commerce.
The Upper Mississippi Valley is very dissimilar to the
Valley of the Ohio. The former is remarkably level and
uniform, the latter in many parts broken, hilly, even approaching to mountainous. The one abounds in lakes and
marshes, the other is wholly destitute of them. The former is covered with prairies,—that is, extensive districts
destitute of trees, and covered with high grass and wild
flowers, and low shrubs;—the latter is covered, in its natural state, with interminable forests, which are only here
and there, even now, interrupted by the cultivated field. In
the Upper Valley of the Mississippi, clumps of trees may be
seen along the rivers and water courses, whilst the far greater proportion of it is open prairie, either elevated and dry,
or low and marshy, possessing generally great fertility of
soil, (although there are many strong exceptions,) and
greatly destitute of timber. It will be the region of pastoral
wealth, abounding in food for innumerable herds and flocks.
In latitude 45°, are the Falls of St. Anthony, where the
Mississippi is precipitated over rocks of sixteen or seventeen
feet of elevation ; and, including the rapids immediately below, has a descent of 74 feet. The Valley of the Ohio has

GEOGHAPHY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER.

$$

a similar, but not equal, impediment to its navigation, in
the rapids at Louisville, where there is a fall of twenty-two
feet, in the distance of two or three miles. We may add
that there are millions of acres in the Valley of the Upper
Mississippi, of marsh and lake, which are covered with
wild rice, (zizania aquatica) which feed innumerable flocks
of water fowls, and which will probably be an article of
food to a large population, as it now, occasionally, affords
to the famished hunter and Indian the means of satisfying
their hunger. Upon the whole, the Valley of the Upper
Mississippi is inferior to the valley of Ohio, but it will
eventually contain a large population. There are fine
tracts of fertile land on the Ouisconsin (pronounced Wisconsin), Fox, and some other rivers.
The Lower Valley of the Mississippi has a length of
1,200 miles, from north-west to the south-east, having the
sources of the Arkansas, and the mouth of the Mississippi
river as extreme points , reaching from north lat. 29° to
*
near 42°, and without estimating mountain ridges or peaks,
differing in relative elevation at least 5000 feet. And as
an elevation of 500 feet is believed to be equal, as it regards
temperature, to one degree of latitude on the level ocean
shore, if we add the actual difference of latitude, 13°, to an
allowance of 10° for relative elevation, the climate at the
north-west extreme must differ from that of the Delta, (or
Islands, in the mouth of the Mississippi,) 23° in temperature, and render the seasons at the head of the Arkansas
nearly as severe as those in north lat. 52° on the Atlantic
coast of Labrador.
This is Mr. Darby's estimate. But I
think that that distinguished writer is in a slight error
here ; for it cannot be that the mountain vallies-at the sources of the Arkansas are 5000 feet above the ocean level.
From the influx of the Missouri to that of the Ohio,
the volume of the Mississippi rolls by a general S. S.
E. course of 190 miles, by its windings; but on receiving the Ohio, it inflects to a course of S. S. W. 380
miles, to the entrance of the White and Arkansas rivers ;
it then turns to a very little W. of S. crosses three degrees of latitude, or about 360 miles by its sinuosities, to
the point where the 31° intersects it, or rather about a
mile and a half below the commencement of the Atchafalaya
outlet, a few miles below the entrance of Red River. From

34

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

this point the Mississippi inflects its general course, and
bends to S. E. which it pursues to its final discharge into
the Gulf of Mexico, a distance by the river of 335 miles.
So that from the mouth of the Missouri, the length of the
Mississippi, by all its windings, is 1265 miles, but by a
direct line, only 820 miles.
Into the Mississippi, as a recipient, are poured from the
east, below the mouth of the Ohio, the Obion, Forked
Deer, Big Hatchie, Wolf, Yazoo, Big Black, and Homochitto; and from the West, or North West, the St.
Francis, White, Arkansas, and Red rivers, with other
streams of less note.
It is a most remarkable circumstance that there is such
a prodigious inequality between the two opposing planes,
down which are poured the confluents of the Mississippi,
below the mouth of the Ohio. The western inclined
plane, falling from the Oregon Mountains, sweeps over
800 or 1000 miles; whilst the eastern, sloping from the
states of Tennessee and Mississippi, does not average a
width of 100 miles. And whilst the White River flows
down 1200 miles, the Arkansas near 2500, and the Red
River from 1500 to 2000, there is no river on the eastern
plane whose whole course exceeds 200 miles* The Arkansas and Red rivers are immense streams, and as they approach the Mississippi river, have many branches which,
after leaving their parent river, run parallel to it, and
finally unite with it again. Near the mouth of the former,
some of these bayous on the south side, in high water,
never return to the parent stream, but run directly to the
Red River; and some of those which break from the Red
River, make their way to the Atchafalaya, and find an outlet for their waters one hundred and fifty miles westward
of the Mississippi.
The Arkansas rises near lat. 42° north, and Ion. 32° west,
and falls into the Mississippi at 33° 56', passing over eight
degrees of latitude. It drains nearly as large a valley as the
Ohio does. Red River rises in the mountains of Santa Fe, in
north lat. 32 0 -35° ) and west Ion. 25°-^28°, from Washington, and falls into the Mississippi in lat. 31°. They are both
remarkable rivers for their extent, the number of their
branches, the volume of their waters, the quantity of the alluvion which they carry down to the parent stream, and the

GEOGRAPHY AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER.

35

colour of their waters. They doubtless cause the Mississippi to infringe so often upon the bluffs which are so conspicuous on its eastern bank. Impregnated by saline particles, and coloured by ochreous earth, the waters of these
two rivers are at once brackish and nauseous to the taste,
particularly near their mouths; that of Red River is so
much so, that at Natchitoches, at low water, it cannot be
used even for culinary purposes. White River, which
enters above the Arkansas, is a noble stream, and drains a
fine country belonging to the State of Missouri and Arkansas territory. The St. Francis is also a considerable river,
and falls into the Mississippi 280 miles below the Ohio.
At a short distance below the mouth of Red River, a
large bayou, (as it is called,) or outlet, breaks from the
Mississippi on the west, by which, it is believed, that as
large a volume of water as Red River brings to the parent
river, is drained off during the high spring floods, and runs
into the Gulf of Mexico, one hundred and fifty miles from
the mouth of the Mississippi. The name of this bayou is
Atchafalaya. Below this bayou, another, of large dimensions, breaks forth on the same side, and finally falls into
the Atchafalaya. This is the Placquemine. Still lower,
at Donaldsonville, seventy-five miles above N . Orleans, on
the same side, the Lafourche Bayou breaks out, and pursues .a course parallel to the Mississippi, and enters the
Gulf fifty miles west of the mouth of that river. On the
east side, the Ibberville Bayou drains off a portion of the
waters of the Mississippi, into lakes Maurepas, Ponchartrain, Borgne, and the Gulf of Mexico, and thus forms the
long and narrow island of Orleans.
In the lower valley of the Mississippi there is a great
extent of land of the very richest kind. There is also
much that is almost always overflown with water, and is a
perpetual swamp. There are extensive prairies in this
Valley, and towards the Oregon Mountains, on the upper
waters of the Arkansas and Red River, there are vast barren steppes or plains of sand, dreary and barren, like the
central steppes of Asia. On the east of the Mississippi,
are extensive regions of the most dense forests, which form
a striking contrast with the prairies which stretch abroad
on the western side of this valley.
The Valley of the Missouri extends 1200 miles in length

86

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

and 437 in average width, and embraces 52*3,000 square
miles. The Missouri River rises in the Oregon Mountains,
through an extent often degrees of latitude, or near 700
miles. The Yellow Stone is its longest branch. The
course of the Missouri, after leaving the Oregon Mountains
is generally S. E. until it unites with the Mississippi. The
principal branches flow from the S. W. They are the
Osage, Kansas, Platte, dec. The three most striking features of this Valley are : 1st. The turbid character of its
waters. 2d. The very unequal volumes of the right and
left confluents. 3d. The immense predominance of the
open prairies, over the forests which line the rivers. The
western part of this Valley rises to an elevation towards
the Oregon Mountains, equal, as it regards temperature,
to ten degrees of latitude.
Ascending from the lower verge of this widely extended plain, wood becomes more and more scarce, until one
naked surface spreads on all sides. Even the ridges and
chains of the Oregon Mountains partake of these traits of
desolation. The traveller, who has read the descriptions
of central Asia, by Tooke or Pallas, would feel, if transported to the higher branches of the Missouri, a resem*
blance, at once striking and appalling; and he would
acknowledge, if near to the Oregon Mountains in. winter,
that the utmost intensity of frost over Siberia and Mongolia, has its full counterpart in North America, on similar,
if not on lower latitudes.-—There is much fertile land in
the Valley of the Missouri, though there is much that must
be forever the abode of the Buffalo, the Elk, the Wolf and
the Deer.

GEOGRAPHY AND NATURAL RESOURCES.

37

CHAPTER V.
1. Climate, considered in relation to the productions of this region.—
2. Minerals.—3. Soil.—4. Trees.—5. Animals.

IN the last Chapter I gave an account of the four great
subdivisions of the Valley of the Mississippi. In this I
proceed to give some further notices of its physical features
and resources.
1. Climate, considered in relation to the productions, tyc.
—We may number four distinct climates between the
sources and the outlet of the Mississippi. The first, commencing at its sources, and terminating at Prairie du Chien,
in lat. 43°, includes the northern half of Michigan Territory, almost the whole of Huron and Sioux districts, and all
of Mandan, and corresponds pretty accurately with the climate between Boston and Quebec; with this difference,
that the amount of snow falling in the former is much less
than in the latter region ; and its winters are not as severe,
and its summers are more equal in temperature. Five
months in the year may be said to belong to the dominion
of winter. The Irish potatoe, wheat, and the cultivated
grains, succeed well in this climate; but the apple, peach,
pear, and the species of corn called gourd seed, require a
more southern climate to bring them to perfection. Abundance of wild rice grows in the numerous lakes at the
head of the Mississippi, which constitutes an important article of food for the natives. On account of the vast body of
frozen water still further to the north, Spring opens late;
but the Autumn continues longer than in the same parallels
on the Atlantic. A species of corn called the Mandan, cultivated by the Mandan and other tribes, flourishes in this climate.
The next climate includes the belt of country between
43° and 36° 30'. In this climate lie Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, the southern part of Michigan territory, Western Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, and Kentucky. The
severity of winter commences with January and ends with
4

38

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

the second week of February. Wheat is at home in this climate. The Irish potatoe flourishes well, especially in the
northern, and the sweet potatoe in the southern part. It is
the region of the apple, the pear, and the peach tree. The
persimmon is found throughout, and the paw-paw with its
luscious fruit, abounds in the southern part. Throughout
the southern half of this climate Cotton is cultivated for
home consumption, and some for exportation, but not much.
Tobacco and Hemp find a congenial soil, and temperature,
in the same part of this climate.
The next climate extends from 36° 30' to 31°. Below 35,°
in the rich alluvial soil, the apple tree begins to fail in bringing its fruit to perfection. Between 36° and 33° cotton is in
general a certain crop ; but below 33° is perhaps its best
climate, and there it becomes a first rate staple article.
Wheat is not cultivated much in the southern part, but
corn grows luxuriantly throughout this climate. I have
never seen finer orchards than in the northern part. Tennessee, Arkansas, and almost the whole of Mississippi,
Alabama, and Georgia, lie within this climate. Wheat
is not cultivated in the southern part, and does not flourish
in any part as well as in the one preceding. The long
moss is here seen on the trees along the swamps. The
palmetto abound, and the fig tree and orange flourish in its
southern parallels. Sugar cane will grow also in that part
of this climate, but is not a profitable crop generally, as
the season is too short for its full maturity.
Below 31°, to the Gulf of Mexico, is the region of the sugar cane and the sweet orange tree. It would be, if it were
cultivated, the region of the olive. On the Florida projection, almost every species of tropical fruits, including the banana, cocoa, almond, &c. find an agreeable climate, and in
many places a suitable soil. Snow is seldom seen here, and
the streams are not often frozen. Winter is only marked by
nights of white frost, and days of north-west winds, and these
do not last longer than three days at once, and are succeeded by south winds and warm days. Cotton and corn are
planted from February to June. The trees are generally
in leaf by the middle of February, and always by the 1st of
March. Early in March the forests are in blossom. Fireflies are seen by the middle of February. In these regions
the summers are uniformly hot, although there are days

GEOGRAPHY AND NATURAL RESOURCES.

39

When the mercury rises as high in New England as in
Louisiana. The heat, however, is here more uniform and
sustained, commences earlier and continues later. From
February to September, thunder storms are common, accompanied sometimes with gales and tornados of tremendous violence.
The climate of the Valley of the Mississippi corresponds,
it is believed, more exactly with the latitude, than that of
the Atlantic States does; this is owing to its uniformity,
being a vast basin, and remote from the influences of the
ocean, mountains, and other natural causes affecting climate. The elevation of the northern end, and especially
that of the extreme eastern and western parts of its great
planes, gives a colder climate than the same parallels
on the level shores of the Atlantic ocean. In some places
this elevation is sufficient to make a difference in temperature
equal to from three to five degrees of latitude on the margin
of the ocean. Mr. Jefferson maintained, that the temperature
of the Valley of the Mississippi is higher than that of the Atlantic coast in corresponding parallels. Dr. Drake, Mr. Darby and others, maintain a contrary opinion. As far as I can
learn, these last named gentlemen are right. Throughout
the central line of the Valley, from the Gulf of Mexico to
the lakes, I think that the mean cold of winter is greater by
two or three degrees than on the Atlantic coast in corresponding parallels. Several facts show this. The Ohio at
Cincinnati, and the Mississippi at St. Louis, the former of
which is almost one degree, and the latter one and a half,
south of Philadelphia, are about as much and as long frozen every winter, as the Delaware is at that city. The
reasons for this difference in the climate of the Valley of
the Mississippi and the Atlantic coast, are, 1st, that the
former region has not the moderating breezes from the
ocean—cooler in extremely hot weather, and warmer in
extremely cold, than the winds from the land—which tW
latter region enjoys—and 2d, it is moi*e elevated than the
corresponding portions of the sea coast.
In the southern and middle regions of this Valley, the
wide, level, and heavy-timbered alluvial lands, are intrinsically more or less unhealthy. In these situations the new
resident is subject to bilious complaints, to remitting fevers,
and especially to fever and ague, the general scourge of the

40

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Valley. The slopes of the Alleghenies; the interior of
Ohio and Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana, where the
forest is cleared away, and stagnant waters drained ; the
high grounds of Illinois and Missouri, and the open country
towards the Oregon Mountains, are as salubrious as any
other region.*
*
2. Minerals,—Many parts of the West abound in valuable minerals. The eastern slope of the Ohio Valley
abounds in iron ore, coal, and salt. These valuable minerals are also found in almost all the states. Vast quantities
of iron are manufactured in Pittsburg, and its vicinity.
Immense veins of coal are found in the same region, and
also in Ohio, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Alabama, and will be sources of great wealth to the inhabitants
in this valley, as there is reason to believe that this valuable species of fuel will be found in almost every state.
Salt water is found in many places throughout this region,
and is often discovered in springs, or " licks," as they are
called, to which the wild deer and buffaloes resort, in the
uninhabited country, in vast numbers. Salt is manufactured in great abundance, on the Kiskiminitas, a branch
of the Allegheny river ; at Yellow Creek, near its junction
with the Ohio above Steubenville ; on the Kahawha, sixtyfive miles above its mouth , on the Saline river thirty
*
miles from Shawneetown, in Illinois ; as well as in many
other places.
In Washington county and the adjacent region, in Missouri, there are lead mines of great extent and value. The
principal " diggings," are included in an extent of fifteen
miles in one direction by thirty in the other. This district
is 70 miles south-west from St. Louis. About 3,000,000
pounds of lead are smelted in a year, giving employment to
about 1200 men. The ore is principally of that class called
galena, and is very rich, yielding from seventy-five to eighty
per cent. There are also very rich mines of the same mineral at Galena, in the north-west corner of the state of Illinois, and on the Ouisconsin, in Huron district. In 1829,
it is said that about 12,000 people were employed in the
neighbourhood of Galena, and it is probable that from nine
* The reader will find in Chapter VIII. ample information respecting
the climate and diseases of the Valley of the Mississippi.

GEOGRAPHY AND NATURAL RESOURCES.

41

to ten millions of pounds were made that year. A larger
quantity, it is believed, is now made annually. A few
years ago this place was in the possession of the Winnebagoes.
Ores of copper, antimony and manganese, have been
discovered, but they are not yet wrought. It is probable
that mines of gold and silver will be found in this region,
as they are abundant in the neighbouring country of Mexico. I may add that gold has recently been found in
Tennessee and Alabama. And I have little doubt that it
Will be found in Missouri, and the Ozark Mountains, which
stretch south-westward from that state.
3. Soil, fyc.—The soil of the Ohio Valley, taken generally, may be considered fertile, but, in many places, it pre^
sents strong exceptions. Wherever the face of the earth in
this valley is broken into hills, mountains, or vales, excellent
fountain water abounds. In some of the more level parts of
Kentucky, of limestone formation, in very dry seasons,there
is a great scarcity of water. It would bo difficult to find any
other country of equal extent, where the natural features
are more strongly contrasted. In regard to the Upper
Valley of the Mississippi, timber is comparatively scarce,
as much of the surface is occupied by prairies and lakes.
Extensive lines of alluvial soil of great fertility border the
streams, particularly of the Mississippi, Illinois, <Scc. The
prairies are of various soils, some very fertile, and others
much less so, but extremely valuable for grazing. Immense herds of cattle and horses will be here raised for an
eastern market, and the population will be great, though
not so much so perhaps as in the Ohio Valley. With the
exception of the alluvial banks of its numerous streams, the
Missouri Valley is dry and sterile, and to a great extent
destitute of timber and fresh water. I ought to add that
much of this region is yet to be explored, and its soil as*
certained. There is, unquestionably, good soil enough to
sustain a large population, in this extensive valley. The
Lower Valley of the Mississippi is the most variegated
section of the United States; every form of landscape,
every trait of natural physiognomy, and an exhaustless
quantity, with an almost illimitable specific diversity of
vegetable and metallic production, are found upon this ex»
tensive region. There are the cold, sterile plains and vales

42

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

of the Oregon Mountains, the elevated and dry grounds of
the Arkansas ; and the exuberant fertility, with the disease
and death (to the unacclimated,) of the Delta of the Mississippi.*
The country lying along the Scioto and Miami rivers, in
Ohio ; that embraced in several counties around Lexington
in Kentucky; some counties of Michigan; large portions
of Missouri; and those portions of Illinois, and Indiana,
which lie along the Sangamon and Wabash rivers, are of
surpassing fertility. Indeed the general fertility of the
soil, and the luxuriance of the vegetation, are such as to
fill with admiration the mind of one whose observation has
been previously^confined to the Atlantic and Northern states.
Nothing strikes the attention of a traveller upon his visiting this region, more forcibly than the immense forests
which cover a large portion of the Valley of the Mississippi. That part of it which has been denominated the
Valley of the Ohio, was sixty years ago, and is still to a
great extent, a vast unbroken forest, presenting, in the
summer season, a most magnificent appearance. No prospect can be more grand than to stand upon the summit of
the Laurel Hill, the last of the Allegheny range, and survey
the extensive green scene which stretches out in the
distance to the West. These forests are of a most luxuriant growth. The Vallies of the Upper Mississippi, the
Missouri, and the Lower Mississippi, have immense prairies, or savannas, where the eye sees nothing, in the summer season, but, as it were, a vast ocean of waving wild
grass, flowers of various hues, and of five or six feet in
height. There are, however, large forests of trees of extraordinary size, particularly along the margins of the
rivers in these vallies.
4. Trees*—The brevity which I am compelled to observe
will not allow me to go into much detail in regard to the different species of trees. The sycamore is the prince of the
western forests. It is often of great size, sometimes hollow, and of such dimensions as to have a cavity of several
feet in diameter. Several have been found having cavities
of from ten to fifteen feet in diameter, so as to accommodate a number of persons. This tree is found in all
parts of the Valley, along the water courses. The ash,
* Darby's View of the United States, Vol. !.p. 313, 314.

GEOGRAPHY AND NATURAL RESOURCES.

43

the elm, the oak of various species, are found in the
greater part of the Valley. The sugar-maple abounds
in the northern and middle parts. The walnut, the beech,
and a great variety of other forest trees abound. The yellow poplar (liriodendron tulipifera) is a princely tree in various parts of this region, and next in size to the sycamore.
The cotton wood is a large tree, and abounds along the lower course of the Ohio, and on the Mississippi. The catalpa,
on the Mississippi, is an elegant tree. The china tree is a
beautiful shade tree, and is the ornamental tree of the towns
and villages in the southern part of the Valley, and throughout all the Southern Atlantic cities from Florida to Virginia*
The bow-wood is found on the Ouachita, (pronounced Washitaw). It is a splendid tree, bearing a beautiful flower, and
a fruit which, although inviting to the eye, is the apple of
Sodom to the taste. The dog-wood with its beautiful flower, the persimmon, wild plum, crab-apple, mulberry, &c.
abound in various parts. The paw-paw is found near Wheeling, and throughout the middle part of the Valley. Its
splendid fruit is too well known to need description. The
peccanwith its fine fruit of the nut kind, is found in Illinois
and Missouri. The magnolia with its beautiful flower is
found in Florida and Louisiana, and some other districts.
Mr. Flint thinks that it is not to be compared with the cotton wood, the sycamore, or the poplar, as it regards size.
It is nevertheless a very large tree, not only in Florida, but
also in the north-eastern angle of Louisiana, and in the
southern part of the State of Mississippi, 40 or 50 miles east
of the Mississippi river, as I well know. The cypress begins to be seen near the mouth of the Ohio, and is, with the
swamp gum, the most common tree in the deep swamps,
from that point to New Orleans. This tree raises a straight
column, from a cone-like buttress, to the height of sixty or
eighty feet, and then throws out a number of horizontal
branches, which interlacing with those of the others around,
form an elevated umbrageous canopy. The cypress is a
very valuable species of timber. Thousands of trunks of this
tree are every year floated down to New-Orleans and other
places, to be sawed at the Steam Saw Mills, or to be used
for other purposes. Below 31° and along the Louisiana and
Florida coasts, the live oak, quercus sempervirens, is found ;
valuable for ship timber. It is not a tall, but rather a
spreading tree, and resembles at a distance an open urn-

44

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

brella, and is remarkable for its solidity and durability.
No country on earth is covered with a greater variety
of useful trees, shrubs, and vines. The orange, the fig
tree, the olive, &c. find a congenial climate and soil in the
southern part of the Valley. The vine grows every where.
The pine forests of the south can furnish millions of masts,
spars, &c. &c. for our ships. #
5. Animals.—The deer, the bear, the fox, the wolf, &c.
are too well known to need notice. The Buffalo now keeps
his range on the sources of the Mississippi, the Missouri,
the Arkansas, and their branches. There, in immense herds,
he traverses the fields of his great domain. The Elk is
abundant ia the same region, far from the abodes of civilized man, which he shuns, and prefers the remotest plains
which stretch along the Oregon Mountains, better known
to the Red man who roams over the same dreary regions.
The beaver also lives in the same country. The panther
has a wider range. The antelope, the white bear, the
mountain sheep, and prairie dog, have so much fellowship
with the beaver, as to inhabit the same distant land.
Birds.—As to the varieties of the feathered tribe, although exceedingly numerous, and good either for food or
for song, I can only give them a passing notice. All the
birds of the Atlantic slope are found in abundance here, and
some which are not found there. The pelican, prairie
hen, wild turkey, parroquet, pigeons, swans, cranes, wild
geese, ducks, &c. &c. abound in various parts of the
Valley.
Reptiles.—As to reptiles, they are the same, generally,
as are found in the Atlantic States. The moccasin snake,
the rattle snake, copper head snake, horned snake, hissing
snake, bull snake, chameleons, lizards, scorpions, &c. &c.
are the most famous of the reptile species. As population
increases, all such things become less formidable. The
hogs and deer destroy vast numbers of them. The rattle,
copper head, and moccasin snakes, are very venomous.
The alligator abounds in the rivers and marshes as far
north as 34°. He is an unwieldy animal, but little dreaded by the inhabitants. Pigs, calves, &c. are sometimes
destroyed by him.
* See Flint's Geography of the Western States, Vol. I. p. 46—75%
from which much of the information contained in this chapter has beeii
derived,

HISTORY.

45

Fishes*—As to the variety of fish found in the rivers
and streams of the Valley of the Mississippi, there is but
little to be said that would be interesting in such a work
as this. They are numerous, and have been described by
Mr. Rafinesque "arid others, with much particularity and
accuracy.
In the next Chapter, I shall give a brief History of the
Valley of the Mississippi.

CHAPTER VL
History of the Valley of the Mississippi*
HAVING given an account of the Geography and Natural
Resources-of the Valley of the Mississippi, i proceed to
give a brief sketch of its civil History.
The English and Spanish dispute the honour of the discovery of this country. It appears, however, that Sebastian
Cabot sailed along the shores of what was afterwards called
Florida, but a few years after the discovery of America by
Columbus.* It is said by Spanish authors that Juan
Ponce de Leon discovered this country in the thirtieth
degree of north latitude in 1512. He gave it the name of
Florida, and made a landing, but was glad to escape from
the fierce attacks of the Indians. He had discovered land
on Easter day, and from that circumstance, gave the country the name of Florida, from the Spanish name of that
festival, Pasqua de Flores—the Festival of Flowers. Between 1518 and 1524, Grijalva and Vasques, both Spaniards,
landed on Florida. Their expeditions proved unfortunate,
through their treachery. In 1528, Narvaez obtained a
grant of Florida. He landed with four or five hundred
men. But his expedition proved disastrous, and he was
lost near the mouth of the Mississippi, by shipwreck. He
* See the very able and interesting* Memoir of Sebastian Cabot,
written by an American gentleman, (Richard Biddle, Esq. of the Pittsburgh bar), and recently published. It is a work which does great
credit to the author as well as to his country.

46

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

first recorded the names of several of the Indian tribes*
He was-succeeded by Ferdinand de Soto, a man of great
bravery and boldness, and of a chivalrous and enterprising
spirit. He landed in Florida with one thousand men,
marched into the Chickasaw country, was probably the
first white man who saw the Mississippi river, which he
crossed not far from the mouth of the Red River. On this
river he sickened and died ; and his followers not long
after left the country.
In the year 1564, the illustrious Protestant, Admiral Coligny, established a colony of Huguenots, near the site of
St. Augustine, which was sometime afterwards massacred
in the most cruel manner, by the Spaniards, for the crime.of
being Protestant heretics. This act of cruelty was requited
by Dominique de Gourgues, who hung the Spaniards on
the same trees upon which they had caused the French to
perish so miserably. Almost fifty years elapsed before we
hear any thing more of the French in North America.
In 1608, Admiral Champlaine founded Quebec, and in
the course of sixty years the French settlements spread
over what is now called Upper and Lower Canada. Their
hunters often made extended tours to the south and west.
In their intercourse with the savages, they learned that
there was a vast region in that direction, watered by a
noble river, whose course was towards the south. Excited
by these representations, M. Talon, the Intendant of Canada, determined to settle the question whether that river did
not flow into the Pacific, and so open a north-west passage.
For this purpose he employed Father Marquette, a Jesuit
missionary, who had travelled much, and Joliette, a trader,
to undertake an excursion for discovery. They went up
the lakes to Michigan, and ascended the Fox River to its
source, and crossed over to the Wisconsin, and descended
that river to the Mississippi, which they descended, as some
say, to the mouth of Arkansas, others to the mouth of the
Missouri, and returned by the Illinois. They discovered
the Mississippi on the 15th of June, 1673. The account
which they gave of the wonders which they saw, induced
M. de La Salle, a man of great enterprise, to undertake to
explore the Mississippi. He set out, in 1679, with a number of men, and spent the winter on the Illinois. He
directed Father Hennepin, who accompanied him, to explore

HIST0R5T.

47

the sources of the Mississippi, whilst he himself returned
to Canada for supplies. But the Father, preferring to descend the noble river, tells us that he actually reached the
mouth in sixteen days after he had left the mouth of the
Illinois River, that is, from the 8th to the 25th of March,
1680, and that he returned a.nd visited the Upper Mississippi as far as the Falls of St. Anthony. He returned soon
afterwards to France, and published an account of this
wonderful voyage, dedicated his book to the great Colbert,
and called the whole country Louisiana, in honour of
Louis XIV. the reigning monarch of France. In 1683,
La Salle founded the villages of Cahokia and Kaskaskia,
in what is now the state of Illinois.
La Salle then returned to France and endeavoured to
convince the ministry of the existence of a great line of
water communication offour thousand miles, from the Gulf
of St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico ; and of the importance of establishing a strong line of communication from
one point to the other, and thus insulating the English
settlements by this impassable barrier. In 1684, he sailed
from France, by order of the King, to discover the mouth
of the Mississippi. He landed one hundred leagues to the
westward of that point, in what is now called Texas, and
after many misfortunes, and vain attempts to find that river,
he set out to.go by land to the French settlements in Illinois, and after undergoing incredible hardships, he fell by
.the hands of assassins among his own men, who conspired
against him.
In January 1699, M. Ibberville arrived in the Gulf of
Mexico, in the neighbourhood of the mouth of the Mississippi, with two frigates. He first landed on Dauphine Island ; and on the 2nd of xMarch he entered the Mississippi
with a felucca, together with his brother Bienville, who accompanied him. Having ascended the river near one hundred leagues, they returned * Bienville proceeded down the
,
main river, and M. Ibberville by the bayou, or outlet, which
has ever since been called by his name, which leads into
Lake Maurepas, Ponchartrain, &c. to the Gulf. M. Ibberville having settled his colony at Biloxi, a healthy, but sterile
spot between the Mississippi and Mobile rivers, and erected fortifications, sailed for France, from whence he returned in the autumn with two more frigates. During that and

48

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

several succeeding years, the work of exploring the country
was carried on with vigour, and the whole Valley was traversed, and several colonies planted. It was long, however,
before the settlers turned their attention fully to the cultivation of the exuberant soil, instead of vain attempts to find
the precious metals. And although much was done in the
way of procuring peltry, &c. and in trading with the savages, yet these colonies were a source of much expense to
the mother country. In five years preceding 1717, the
balance against the parent country was 125,000 livres.
On the 8th of January, 1702, the colony of Mobile was
planted by M. Ibberville. Establishments were made in
various places. Missions were planted by the Catholic Missionaries among various tribes of Indians, many of whom
are now extinct. For many years these colonies had to
contend with great difficulties. Sometimes they were on
terms of peace with their neighbours, the Spaniards in
Florida and Mexico, and in league with them against the
English and the savages who were in alliance with them.
M. Ibberville died in 1706, and M. Bienville acted as
governor for many years afterwards. During 1719 he
founded the city of New Orleans, on the east bank of the
Mississippi, one hundred and five miles from its mouth.
In 1729 or 1730, the French utterly destroyed the Natchez, a powerful tribe of Indians, who had previously destroyed 700 French people in a quarrel which occurred in
1723. Various wars afterwards took place between the
colonists and the Indians, Spaniards, and English. By
wonderful adroitness and perseverance, the French had
an extrordinary influence over almost all the savages
throughout the whole Valley. By successive arrivals of
emigrants from France, the population increased rapidly
in numbers and wealth.
The " Mississippi scheme," or "bubble," as it has been
called, which was originated by John Law, in 1717, and
which spread ruin throughout France, was upon the whole,
highly beneficial to Louisiana, as it increased its population.
The amount of stock created, and on which there was almost
an entire failure, amounted to more than 310,000,000 of dollars. From the year 1736 the colonies in the southern
part of the Valley of the Mississippi, or Louisiana, as the
whole country was called, increased and flourished. Gene-

HISTORY.

49

rally the best of terms were maintained with the savages.
Agriculture wTas pursued. Valuable exports were made of
cotton, indigo, peltry, furs, pitch, lumber, &c. &c. from
New Orleans and other sea-ports in the vicinity.
In 1754, France and England commenced hostilities, on
account of conflicting claims to territory. At the close of
the war of 1744-49, the French ceded Nova Scotia to
the English. A long dispute occurred respecting its boundary : the French wishing to restrict it to what is now called by that name, and the English maintaining that it extended to the eastern line of what is now Maine, and north
to the St. Lawrence. In the West, France claimed all the
country west of the Alleghenies ; and England, on the other
hand, had granted to Virginia and other colonies charters
which extended to the " South Sea," that is, the Pacific
Ocean. And a grant of 600,000 acres was made to a company called the " Ohio Company," by Virginia and the
Crown. The Governor of New France (as Canada and
Louisiana were called,) protested, and stirred up the Indians,
and commenced the erection of forts at Presque Isle, (now
the town of Erie in West Pennsylvania,) on Le Boeuf, a
branch of French Creek, and at the junction of the Monongahela and Allegheny. The Lieutenant Governor of Virginia sent Major Washington in 1753 to the French Commandant of these posts, to request him to desist. This embassy failed to accomplish the object. The next year a
detachment was despatched to dislodge the French from
Fort du Quesne, (now Pittsburg,) at the junction of the
Allegheny and Monongahela. This charge was committed
to Washington, who marched, the same year, with the rank
of a Major, and having under his command four hundred
men, to secure and fortify a position on the Ohio. He was
surrounded and compelled to surrender, but on the most
honourable terms, at Fort Necessity, on the ground which is
commonly called the " Little Meadows," which lie on the
national road from Cumberland to Wheeling, and about
ten miles east of Uniontown. In 1755, General Braddock
was defeated in the most calamitous manner, on the eastern
bank of the Monongahela, about nine miles above Pittsburg,
himself mortally wounded, and the shattered remains of his
army conducted back, by Col. Washington. In 1758, '59,
Du Quesne, Niagara, and Ticonderoga, were taken by the
5

50

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

English. The memorable victory of Wolfe at Quebec?
made the English completely dominant in the Canadas in
1759, and the French humbled by repeated defeats by sea
and by land, ceded, towards the close of that war, all the
country west of the Mississippi, including the city and island of New Orleans, to the Spanish, by a secret treaty,,
made in November, 1762. At the treaty of Paris, in 1763,
France ceded to England all her possessions east of the
Mississippi river, and Spain ceded Florida to the English.
In 1764, the English took possession of Florida, and the
Spanish, under O'Reilly, took possession, in 17.69, of Louisiana, limited in extent by the Mississippi on the east, as
above remarked.
The American Revolution commenced in 1775, and
ended in 1783. During this period the West shared but
little in the conflict. General Clark captured the English force at Vincennes; and the Spanish, under Galvez,
uniting with the French in espousing the cause of the
United States, re-captured the English posts at Baton
Rouge, Mobile, and Pensacola. Besides these events, nothing of importance during this war occurred in the Valley
of the Mississippi. By the peace of 1783, England re-ceded
Florida to Spain, and acknowledged the independence of
the United States, ceding to them all the country north of
the 31° of N . lat. After the peace of 1783, the circumstance which most deeply interested the increasing population of the West, was the protracted controversy with
Spain, with respect to the line between the United States
and the Floridas, and the right, on the part of the United
States, to the navigation of the Mississippi to its mouth.
After much sharp and painful controversy on these subjects, Spain ceded, by secret treaty, in 1801, Louisiana to
France. The latter power ceded it, April 13, 1803, to the
United States, for the sum of 15,000,000 dollars.
During a period of more than fifteen years, after the Independence, the inhabitants of the West were harassed by
incessant attacks from the Indians on their borders. In
1790, General Harmar marched from Fort Washington,
the present site of Cincinnati, with an army of 1,453 men.
Within a few miles of the place where Chillicothe stands, a
bloody, but indecisive battle was fought, commonly called
Harmar's defeat. In November, 1791, General St. Clair,

HISTORY.

51

with an army of 1,400 men, met with a most calamitous
defeat near the Miami, in which more than 600 brave men
were slain, and 265 wounded. The Indians, flushed with
success, increased their depredations and massacres. It
has been proved that between 1783 and 1790, no less than
1,500 people of Kentucky were massacred by the savages,
or dragged into a horrid captivity : and that the frontiers
of Pennsylvania and Virginia suffered a loss not much less.
In 1793 the government sent Gen. Wayne against the Indians, who, with an army of 3000 men, on the 20th of
August, 1794, at the Miami of the Lake (or Maumee, as it
is now called), gave them a tremendous defeat. The consequence was a general peace among all the tribes of Indians, in the West and South, which was secured by the
treaty of Greenville, August 3, 1795. In the year 1794
an insurrection, (occasioned by duties laid on spirituous
liquors manufactured in the United States,) in the western
part of Pennsylvania, was quelled without the shedding
of blood.
In 1812, the late war with Great Britain commenced.
The Valley of the Mississippi was the theatre of many of
the events of that contest. In the northern parts of it
were the battles of Tippacanoe, Mississinewa, River Raisin, Forts Meigs and Sandusky, the victory on Lake
Erie, the capture of Detroit and Maiden, and the defeat of
the British army under General Proctor on the Thames.
In the south were the bloody and decisive battles, with
the Indians, at Taliushatchie, Talladega, EmuckfiiW,
Tohopeka, the. attack upon Fort Boyer, the capture of
Pensacola, and the victory at New Orleans. The events
of that war are too recent to need a more particular notice.
It terminated in the early part of 1815. It was sometime,
however, before the ruinous effects of the war ceased.
Every species of speculation was carried, for a while, to a
ruinous excess, and several years elapsed before public
confidence was completely restored.
Some Historical notices of each state in the West will
be given when I come to that part of the work.

52

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI-

CHAPTER VIL
Future increase of Population.

HAVING in the last chapter given a brief and general
History of the Valley of the Mississippi, I proceed now to
make some remarks upon the rapid increase of population
in that region, and to assign some reasons for believing
that it must continue to increase at a rapid rate, for along
period, in future.
The first French settlements in the Valley of the Mississippi were made in the latter part of the seventeenth
century. In 1699, Bienville and Ibberville planted a colony at Biloxi, which is in the southern extremity of what
is now the state of Mississippi. During the twenty years
preceding, colonies had entered the upper end of the
Valley from Canada, then a part of the French dominions^
and had settled at Cahokia, and Kaskaskia, in what is now
Illinois; at Detroit, in Michigan Territory; and Vincennes, (or Post Vincent, as it was called,) in Indiana.
These colonies were small, for a' long time, and chiefly for
trading posts, and not for agricultural purposes, at least
not so to any important extent.
It was not until the middle of the eighteenth century, or
about 1750, that the English began to make attempts to
colonize that country. It has sometimes been asserted, that
Daniel Boone was the first conductor of an English colony
to the West. This is true of Kentucky, and that part of
the Valley. This event occurred in 1775. A Mr. Finley,
from North Carolina, visited this state in 1707, and again
he and Boone visited it, and to a considerable extent traversed it, in 1769 and 1771. In 1773 Boone advanced with
a colony of 40 or 50 persons ; but being attacked by the
Indians, they returned to Clinch river, and the party remained there two years—and in 1775 removed and settled
on the site of what is Boonesboro' at this time. But it
is far from being the fact, that this was the first English

FUTURE INCREASE OF POPULATION.

53

colony that was led to the west. In the western part ot
Pennsylvania, a colony was planted, in what was long known
by the name of the " Redstone Settlement," (the chief fortified place in which was " Old Fort," now Brownsville, on
the Monongahela,) several years before 1775. Immediately
after the peace of Paris, in 1763, by which the eastern and
northern parts of the Valley of the Mississippi were ceded
to Great Britain, emigrants began to plant themselves in
West Pennsylvania and Virginia, and Pittsburgh became
the centre of these colonies. Even before this event, colonU
zation had commenced in that quarter. Indeed, it was partly
owing to efforts to plant a colony in that region, prompted
by the inducements held out by the British government,
and particularly through the governor of Virginia, that the
" French war," as it. was and is still called, had its origin,
and which was commenced in 1754, and ended in 1763.
But English settlements were also early made in East
Tennessee. As early as 1755, companies from North Carolina and Virginia visited that country for the purpose of
hunting. In 1757, Fort Loudon was built on the Little
Tennessee ; and the next year, some settlements were made
on the Holston, which were destroyed when Fort Loudon
was captured by the Cherokees, in 1760. In 1768, more
permanent settlements were made in East Tennessee, which
continued amid various vicissitudes, and finally flourished.
For a long period the advance of emigration into West
Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee,
was slow. Encountering the most formidable difficulties,
and marking every step of their progress with blood,
shed by the hands of unsubdued savage foes, not less than
three thousand persons were either murdered or carried
into a horrible captivity, (from which but few of them
ever returned,) in these early settlements, before the year
1790. Before the close of the next eventful period often
years, comparative quiet, and protection from Indian
attacks, were obtained, but not without several bloody
battles, lost or won. But it was not until fifteen years
more had passed away, that is, until 1815, only eighteen
years ago, that entire security was afforded to the settlers
in every part of the Valley.
It was owing to the dangers arising from the hostile
Indians, as well as to many other obstacles, which I shall
5*

54

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

incidentally show hereafter, that the population of the West
increased so slowly during the first twenty-five years—that
is, from 1765 to 1790. At the last named date, it did not
much exceed 150,000, by actual enumeration. From that
period, it increased more rapidly, although much more
slowly during the first, than the last half of the subsequent
forty years. The population in 1830, will appear from
the following table :
]POPULATION.

POPULATION.

In 1830.
337,846
204,173
937,903
343,031
31,639
157,445
140,455
687,917
681,904
30,388
136,621
215,739
309,527
17,362

2,624,963

West Pennsylvania,
West Virginia,
Ohio,
Indiana,
Michigan Territory,
Illinois,
Missouri,
Kentucky,
Tennessee,
Arkansas Territory,
Mississippi,
Louisiana,
Alabama,
West Florida, (about)

In 1820.
244,862
147,514
581,434
147,178
8,919
55,211
66,586
564,317
422,813
14,274
75,448
153,407
143,000

4,231,950

No estimate is here made of the population of the western parts of Georgia and North Carolina, and the southwestern angle of New York.
From the above table it appears, that during the last
forty years the population of the Valley of the Mississippi
has increased from 150,000 to 4,231,950 ; and we have
reasons for believing, that it will continue to increase at a
very rapid rate, for a long period. The present rate of
increase is such, that the whole population in that region
is doubled in about eleven years. I shall proceed to give
some reasons why the population must increase very
rapidly for a long period.
1. The first reason which I shall mention is derived
from the fact, that there is now the most perfect security

FUTURE INCREASE OP POPULATION.

55

enjoyed by the inhabitants, both as it regards their personal
safety and that of their property.
The emigrants to the west, in early times, and even
down to the close of the late war with Great Britain, encountered dangers on the frontiers which none but they
could overcome. We have all heard of Indian wars, and of
the cruel massacres which have almost always followed Indian victories. But the half has never been told. Under
the colonial government, strong inducements were held
forth to promote emigration and settlement in the west.
Even as early as 1750, attempts were actually made to
plant colonies in the western parts of Pennsylvania and
Virginia, and the adjoining parts of what is now the State
of Ohio. But, with few exception, none went who either
remained in their new abodes, or returned again to the land
of their birth. It has already been stated, that in the short
period of seven years, from 1783 to 1790, more than fifteen
hundred of the inhabitants of Kentucky were either massacred or carried away into a captivity worse than death,
by the Indians; and an equal number from Western
Virginia and Pennsylvania in the same period, met with a
similar fate. The settlers on the frontiers were almost
constantly, for a period of forty years, harassed either by
the actual attacks of the savages, or the daily expectation
of them. The tomahawk and the scalping knife were the
objects of their fears by day and by night. But now the
case is widely different. After the loss of many gallant
men, who perished in the many battles which occurred, the
Indian tribes are subdued; and even to the sources of the
Missouri and the Mississippi, they generally manifest a
friendly spirit. It is indeed a matter of great thankfulness
to a Christian mind, that they are, to so great an extent,
desirous of education, and instruction in the arts of civilized life, and are willing to hear of the way of eternal life.
And now the inhabitants on the Mississippi and the Arkansas, the Missouri and the Alabama rivers, live in as
perfect security as do those on the Hudson and the Delaware, the Susquehanna and the Potomac.
2. There is in the Valley of the Mississippi an immense
extent still of the finest land in the world, which may be
purchased at the small sum of one dollar and a quarter

56

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

per acre ; and the prospect is that it will be attainable for
even a smaller sum.
There are probably, at a reasonable calculation, one
million of square miles, or 640,000,000 acres of land fit
for cultivation in the Valley of the Mississippi—equal to
4,000,000 farms or plantations, of 160 acres each ; or
8,000,000 of farms, of eighty acres each, a quantity of
land which, in New England, would be considered very
ample for one family. It is, indeed, probable, or rather it
is certain, that it will not all be needed for agricultural
purposes for a century or two. I have said that there are
1,000,000 of square miles which may be cultivated. The
whole valley, however, contains more than 1,350,000
square miles, so that I allow more than 350,000 square
miles for mountainous regions, for marshes and swamps,
and for sterile plains, and prairies, towards the Oregon
Mountains. But I would remark, that excepting the skirts
of the Allegheny and Oregon Mountains, there is scarcely
any thing which deserves the name of a mountain in the
whole valley ; and as to the swamps and marshes, the clay
will come when many of them will be drained, either by
the State or General Government. And even the prairies,
excepting the very sterile, which are less extensive than
most suppose, will be turned to good account. And it
ought to be remembered, that forests are as necessary for
a dense population, as cultivated ground is. There must
be large tracts of uncultivated land, to afford fuel, timber,
and pasturage.
Four millions, or rather eight millions, of families may
have farms in the West of no inconsiderable size. Besides,
thousands, or rather hundreds of thousands of families will
be engaged in the navigation of the rivers ; in the various
arts, and trades, and manufacturing processes, which even
now employ and support a large population ; in merchandise and commerce; and in the learned professions of law,
medicine, divinity, and the instruction of youth in thousands
of common schools, hundreds of academies, and colleges,
and universities. The facilities for supporting a family in
the Valley of the Mississippi, not indeed-equal in all places,
are such as would astonish an eastern resident, who knows
little or nothing about this region. It has been correctly
said, that " nature has been almost too profuse in her gifts

FUTURE INCREASE OF POPULATION.

57

to this great valley." Such is the fertility of soil, and
other natural advantages, that too little industry is required, for the proper developement and strengthening of the
valuable traits of human character. It is true, indeed,
that industry, and perseverance, and frugality are needed,
especially by the emigrant upon his arrival; but he will,
by a few years of toil and energy, acquire the means of
living, without a very constant application of his powers
of body and mind. A little effort, comparatively, will enable him to support his family, and live in comfort.
3. The increased facilities of emigration to that region,
and of the introduction of such articles as are necessary to
the support and comfort of the inhabitants.
These facilities will appear the more manifest and striking, if we compare the present with the past. Fifty or
sixty years ago, when the first emigrants crossed the Allegheny Mountains, these great natural boundaries presented almost insurmountable obstacles. There was then, and
for a long period afterwards, no road that could be travelled
by a wagon, with any convenience. Merchandise of every
description—even salt and iron—had to be carried across
on horseback : and this was almost the only mode by which
a family could cross these mountains. It was then a matter
of great toil and difficulty, requiring a long time, to remove
a family to the West. There are many still living who well
remember these toils. These subjects employ many an hour
of the evenings of the western sire, as he relates the hardships of his early days, and the dangers which he encountered in removing to this new world. The frequent relation
of these interesting events serves to gratify the good-natured
loquacity of old age, and to while away, in a pleasant
manner, the long and tedious hours of a winter night.
But how different is the state of things at present! It is
almost an affair of nothing to cross this once formidable
barrier. There are thousands of men in the West who
have crossed it from fifty to one hundred times. There are
at least fifteen good roads, several of them turnpikes, across
these mountains, in various parts, from Lake Erie to the
Gulf of Mexico, besides several others which are less travelled. There are not less than fifteen lines of stages, which
now cross these mountains ; thus uniting the western with
the eastern cities. Some of these lines run once a week,

58

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

but the most of them three times a week; and six, at least,
now start daily. Throughout the whole year, hundreds
of wagons pass and repass on each of these routes, carrying the productions of the Atlantic slope, and the merchandise from Atlantic cities to the Valley of the Mississippi ; and sometimes carrying the productions of the West
to the East. And thousands of these wagons annually
carry out the families and household property of eastern
or foreign emigrants, who are seeking a home in the distant West. Whole caravans of families moving onward,
are continnally met by the traveller, as he journeys to the
East.
I have often stood and viewed with wonder, whole caravans of emigrating families, having sometimes a dozen
wagons in company, as they passed along the streets of
Louisville, Cincinnati, Brownsville, Pittsburg, or Wheeling*
I have a thousand times met them on the summits of the
Alleghenies ; and, as they passed, wagon after wagon, the
women and children sometimes riding, and often walking
after in an irregular line, and the men driving the teams,
or urging on the live stock, I have been reminded of the
beautiful lines of Virgil, which represent the Trojan
Prince supporting the drooping spirits of his followers
amid the toils of a long and perilous voyage. With a
verbal change, it might be used by many a father of a
family, as he pursues his long and toilsome way across
these lofty mountains, seeking a new residence, in an almost unknown land :
Per varios casus, per tot discrimina rerura
Tendimus Hespcriam, sedes ubi fata quietas
Ostendunt.

Canals and rail-roads are now constructing through the
Allegheny range. The Pennsylvania canal, and the Chesapeake and Ohio canal are now in progress. Soon the James
River and Kanawha Canal will be undertaken. Others will
follow. A rail-road—the Baltimore and Ohio—to increase
the facilities of inter-communication between the East and
West, has been commenced under favourable omens. In
a few years, probably, a national road from Washington to
New Orleans, will add another line of communication between the Atlantic slope and the Valley of the Mississippi.

FUTURE INCREASE OF POPULATION.

59

But this is not all. On the southern boundary of the Valley is a line of coast of 1100 miles, containing many points
of access to this vast region. Thousands of emigrants enter the Valley of the Mississippi from this direction, preferring a voyage around Cape Sable, to a journey across the
mountains. I have seen the large steam-boats on the
Father of rivers, carrying, besides some hundreds of tons
of merchandise, four or five hundred emigrants, from Germany, Ireland, or other foreign lands,—who had landed at
New Orleans,—to the central or upper parts of the Valley.
On the other hand, the extended chain of lakes affords, on
the north, a similar and more easy manner of communication
with the Valley of the Mississippi. Nor less than twentyone steam-boats, .and one hundred and twenty sail of vessels of all sizes, on Lake Erie alone, are exchanging the
products of the East and West, and annually transporting
thousands of emigrants to the Valley of the Mississippi.*
These numerous natural and artificial channels of intercourse between the East and West, by which emigration
and commerce are consequently very greatly promoted,
are objects of deep interest to every American ; for they are
among the most powerful bonds by which our union will,
with the blessing of God, be perpetuated. Natural boundaries have hitherto, all the world over, divided the inhabitants of the earth into separate and often hostile nations.
But with us, neither the Allegheny nor the Oregon range of
mountains will constitute a " wall of separation" to sever
our union. The natural and artificial facilities of intercourse, which I have described above, give unity to our
feelings and our interests. And so great is the emigration
from the East to the West, and so wide the consequent dispersion of the families which compose this nation, that innumerable ties to bind us together as a people, extend over
our vast country, in the natural relations of life, in the friendships of our youth, as well as in the duties which the laws
of our country and our God enjoin upon us.
4. Another reason for the rapid increase of the population
of the Valley of the Mississippi in future, is to be found in
the increased facilities for trade and intercourse between
the different sections of it,
* There are twenty-five steam-boats on Lake Ontario and the St.
Lawrence above Montreal, and several more are building.

60

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Probably no country on earth, of equal extent, 1 «5 ?(\
many advantages, in facilities for intercourse, as th * V.-ii*
ley of the Mississippi. A thousand streams, naVf, >5AV
at least during several months every year, and the1 ?v -iy
canals which are now constructing, afford convenien. Jmanels of commerce and intercourse in every part of th : * v<l
region. Several thousand flat-bottom boats convey a '.uially
the productions of the various sections of this regioi #,o the
sea-ports in the southern parts of it, particularly to tr « grout
•
emporium of the West, the city of New Orleans. A () hundreds of keel-boats, at seasons of low water, carry - pro.
ductions of the southern, and of foreign climes, <* the
*
northern part of it. But it is the introductioa of stec H-boat*
into this vast region, watered by large rivers, some 4" which
are many hundreds of miles in length, which has gr atSy ia»
creased of late years, the facilities for trade' and 'ii'iifjnation. No other country on earth will be benefit! A t<> en
equal extent by this wonderful invention. It has iircatly
made a revolution in the commercial affairs of tl ^ West.
Instead of spending many months in warping a I *rge> or
" cordelling" and " poling," and " bush-whacking' * a keeboat from New Orleans to Pittsburg, against the i peUcou^
current of the Mississippi and Ohio, a steam-boat n > - i w w s
the voyage in fifteen or twenty days, stopping a • at ts\\
the intermediate places of importance. Not onh; -istim?
been gained, but the expense of travelling, and of
^vs'ting goods, has been diminished three or four-fifth «
I will here give an interesting extract from t'n« Cineinnati Daily Gazette, relating to steam-boats in *\. West t
" T h e first steam-boat built on the western water*, of
which the writer of this article has any record, wf - ,hf NewOrleans, of 350 tons, built at Pittsburg in 1811 ; » ;J SP. has
no account of more than seven or eight built'pi ' iuusiy to
1817. From that period they have been rapidly «i. * reading
in number, character, model, and style of \fo ! .ayiiship.,
until 1825, when two or three boats, built about •' d \^uodv
were declared, by common consent, to be the rst m ih&
world. Since that time, we are informed, that ome of thw
New York and Chesapeake boats rival, and p -"J>ahly sur<
pass us, in richness and beauty of internal dec< utiote,
" As late as 1816, the practicability of na mating the
* A mode of propelling a boat up a stream by pulling I
of the trees which overhang the water.

. branches

FUTURE INCREASE OP POPULATION.

61

Ohio with steam-boats was esteemed doubtful. None but
the most sanguine augured favourably. The writer of this
well remembers that in the year 1816, observing, in company with a number of gentlemen, the long struggle of a
stern-wheel boat to ascend ' Horse-tail Ripple,' (five miles
below Pittsburg,) it was the unanimous opinion, that such
a contrivance might conquer the difficulties of the Mississippi as high as Natchez, but that we of the Ohio must wait
for some more happy century of inventions. In 1817, the
bold and enterprising Captain Shreve (whose late discovery
of a mode of destroying snags, and improving western navigation, entitles him to the reputation of a public benefactor,)
made a trip from New Orleans to Louisville in twenty-five
days ! The event was celebrated by rejoicing, and by a
public dinner to the daring individual who had achieved the
miracle. Previous to that period, the ordinary passage of
barges, propelled by oars and sails, was three months ! A
revolution in western commerce was at once effected.
Every article of merchandise began to ascend the Mississippi, until we have seen a package delivered at the wharf
of Cincinnati, from Philadelphia, via New Orleans, at one
cent per pound ! From the period of Captain Shreve's celebrated voyage till 1827, the time necessary for the trip has
been gradually diminishing. During that year, the Tecumseh entered the port of Louisville, from New Orleans, in
eight days and two hours, from port to port.*
" Since the introduction of steam-boats, the memorandum before me furnishes a list of 343, (since increased to
about 450,) of which probably about 225 are now running,
whose united tonnage may be estimated at about 56,000
tons, employed during this period on the Mississippi, Ohio,
and their branches. The largest size rate about 500 tons ;
but a large majority of them are under 250 tons.
" The average cost of a steam-boat is estimated at $100
per ton.f The repai/s made during the existence of the
boat, amount to one-half of the first cost. The average
duration of a boat has hitherto been about four years. Of
those built of locust lately, the period will probably be
about two years longer."
* Even this has been since outdone.
f This is quite too high. See the Chapter, in this work, which
relates to the steam-boats of the West.
6

62

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

The number of steam-boats (when this was written,) in
actual commission, is stated by this writer at more than
two hundred ; the average tonnage of which may be stated
at 175 tons, making the amount employed 35,000 tons.
The annual expenditure for fuel alone is estimated at
$1,181,000. The other expenditures are calculated, by
the most intelligent owners, at one million three hundred
thousand dollars ; making the present total annual expenditure nearly two million jive hundred thousand dollars.
The writer adds—" We cannot better illustrate the magnitude of the change in every thing connected witb the
western commerce and navigation, than by contrasting the
foregoing statement with the situation of things at the time
of the adoption of steam transportation, say in 1817.
About twenty barges, averaging about one hundred tons
each, comprised the whole of the commercial facilities for
transporting merchandise from New Orleans to the upper
country. Each of these performed one trip down, and up
again to Louisville and Cincinnati within the year. The
number of keel-boats employed on the Upper Ohio cannot
be ascertained, but it is presumed that 150 is a sufficiently
large calculation to embrace the whole number. These
averaged thirty tons each, and employed one month to
make the voyage from Louisville to Pittsburg; while the
more noble and dignified barge of the Mississippi, made
her trip in the space of one hundred days, if no extraordinary accident happened to check her progress.
" T h e Mississippi boats now make five trips within the
year, and are enabled, if necessary, in that period, to afford
to that trade 35,000 tons. Eight or nine days are sufficient, on the Upper Ohio, to perform a trip from Louisville
to Pittsburg and back. In short, if the steam-boat has
not realized the hyperbole of the poet, in annihilating time
and space,* it has produced results scarcely surpassed by
the introduction of the art of printing."
* To give the reader an idea of the effect of steam-boats in diminishing distance, in the estimation of the western people, I would state,
that Mrs. General Clarke, of St. Louis, told me, not long since, that a
few years ago, she, together with a party of gentlemen and ladies, took
a little excursion of pleasure, (for the purpose of spending a fourth of
July,) in a steam-boat, up to the falls of St. Anthony, a distance of only
about eight hundred miles from St. Louis !

FUTURE INCREASE OF POPULATION.

63

I will only add that there are five or six steam-boats on
the Appalachicola and Chattahooche ; thirteen on the Mobile and its branches, the Alabama and Tombigbee; several
in the Opelousas trade ; three on Lakes Ponchartrain, and
Borgne, and the Pearl river ; while, as I have mentioned
before, there are twenty-one on Lake Erie, which trade with
the ports on the south side of that lake, and of those above.
Of the two hundred and more on the Mississippi and Ohio,
and their branches, there is no stream of sufficient size
which is not entered by some of them. Every little river
has one or more steam-boats.' In a few years the number
will be doubled. Every river from Cape Sable to the
Sabine, and from the mouth of the Mississippi to the Yellow
Stone and the Allegheny, will be covered with them,
whilst they will abound not only on Lakes Ontario and
Erie, but also on Huron, Michigan, and Superior.
5. The fifth reason which I shall mention, for the future
rapid increase of the population of the Valley of the Mississippi, is, the increased confidence in the general salubrity
of the climate of that country.
I can well remember, what fearful apprehensions were
entertained, by emigrants to the west, on this subject. The
fevers of the Muskingum, Miami, Wabash, and Kentucky,
were objects of the greatest dread. Now they are little
feared. A careful attention to health, an avoidance of
exposure during the autumnal season, while the process of
acclimation is going on, and a timely application of the
medicines which an increased knowledge of the materia
medica, and especially of the character of the diseases of
this region, will soon ensure to the emigrant as good health
as the inhabitants of the east enjoy, and much better, even
along the rivers, than the dwellers on the Delaware and
the Susquehanna, the Juniata and the Potomac, have of late
years enjoyed. There are portions, unquestionably, of
the lower part of the Valley, particularly the level, low,
and swampy alluvial bottoms along the rivers, which will
be unhealthy to those who are not acclimated.
6. Another reason for expecting that the increase of the
population of the West will continue to be rapid, is found in
the increased and, increasing religious and literary advantages and privileges which emigrants to the West enjoy*
I am far from asserting, that these privileges and advantages are as great as it is desirable they should be. But

64

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI,

they are rapidly increasing. In many places, particularly
in the large towns and cities, they are as great as in the
eastern towns and cities ; whilst great efforts are making to
supply every destitute neighbourhood with these advantages.
Within the last five years, astonishing efforts have been
commenced, (and they are but commenced,) by the friends of
religion, both in the East and West, to dispense bountifully
Bibles, to those who are destitute of them,—to establish
Sabbath schools,—to send the living preacher to destitute
neighbourhoods,—to promote the Temperance reformation,
—to plant Colleges and Theological Seminaries, &c. No
one can for a moment doubt, that these efforts will greatly
promote the increase of emigration to that region. A
noble beginning has been made in these things, but much,
very much, remains to be done. In what has been commenced, we have an earnest of what will be accomplished.
7. A seventh reason is to be found in the fact that there
is already a great amount of intelligence, and of interesting
society, in all the settled parts of the Valley.
The idea is no longer entertained by Eastern people, that
to go to the West, or the " Back Woods,5' as it formerly
was called, is to remove into a heathen land, to a land of
ignorance and barbarism, where the people do nothing but
rob, and fight, and gouge ! Some parts of the West have obtained this character, but most undeservedly, from the
Fearons, the Halls, the Trollopes, and other ignorant and
insolent travellers from England, who, because they were
not allowed to insult and outrage as they pleased, with Parthian spirit have hurled back upon us their poisoned javelins
when they left us. There is indeed much destitution
of moral influence and means of instruction in many, very
many, neighbourhoods and towns in the West. And noble
and successful efforts are making by the Bible, Missionary,
Tract, Sabbath School, Temperance, Education, and Seamen and River Men's Societies, to remove it, and to keep
the march of knowledge and religion equal to the gigantic
march of emigration and population. But there is in all
the principal towns of the West a state of society, with
which the most refined, I was going to say the most fasti- ,
dious, of the Eastern cities, need not be ashamed to mingle.
It has even become a fashionable way of spending a part of
the year, to visit the most interesting cities and places of
the West, to view their rising greatness, see the curiosi-

FUTURE INCREASE OF POPULATION.

65

ties which abound in them and their vicinities, and enjoy
the cordial and even elegant hospitality of their inhabitants,
Even the " exquisite," from Philadelphia, New York, Baltimore, and Boston, is to be seen in the streets and the
shops of Cincinnati, Lexington, Louisville, New Orleans,
and a hundred other places, and finds that even his delicate
personage can pass along not only with safety, but even
without molestation.
The Eastern emigrant will find,
that wholesome legislation, and much of the influence of
religion, are enjoyed in the Valley of the Mississippi, extending to him the enjoyment of his rights and the protection of his property. There are twelve organized State
and Territorial Governments. And I ought to add, that
although common schools are not as good as they should
be, yet there is an increasing attention to them. One state
(Ohio) has recently commenced a good common school
system, and other states will soon follow her example.
And Sunday schools will soon be planted wherever there
is a sufficient population. There are now thirty colleges
actually in operation ; two or three medical institutions ;
five or six theological seminaries, and several schools of a
higher character than common ; besides a large number of
academies. These Institutions are indeed in their infancy,
but they afford an education but little, and some of them
not at all, inferior to what may be obtained in the East. I
merely allude to this topic at present; I shall have occasion hereafter to mention particularly every literary insti*
tution of importance. I only speak of it now, as a fact
calculated to exert a powerful influence upon the intelli*
gent in the East, who may think of removing to the West,
I have thus given, as briefly as possible, the reasons
which, to my mind, are sufficient to show, that for a long
period the population of the Valley of the Mississippi must
continue to increase at a very rapid rate, if not indeed at
the same rate at which it has increased during the last
twenty or thirty years. Let us glance, for a moment, at the
difficulties which stood in the way of emigration thither
during the last fifty years. At the commencement of that
period, the war of the revolution was just ceasing; the
country was embarrassed ; the savages in the West were
numerous and powerful, and almost all hostile to us. A few
settlements had been made in Western Pennsylvania and
6*

66

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Virginia, Kentucky and Tennessee. During the first fifteen
years, these colonies advanced, but it was amidst tears and
blood : roads were opened with great difficulty across the
Alleghenies; the diseases of the country were not well understood, and death cut off many of the emigrants. During
that period and until 1803, the trade on the western rivers
was embarrassed by the " occlusion," as it was called, of
the Mississippi, by the Spanish, who had possession of
Louisiana, and with whom our government had a protracted and violent controversy during nearly twenty years.
Then succeeded the Indian depredations and massacres on
the frontier, until the close of the late war in 1815; together with the embarrassments occasioned by that war
and the embargoes which preceded it. Then came the
rage of speculation, and the consequent period of gloom
occasioned by " making haste to be rich," and aggravated
by injudicious legislation in some cases, in the shape of
relief laws, &c. &c. But now, how different is the prospect ! May it not be overclouded by any untoward event!
The following statement, extracted from the Report of
the Commissioner of the General Land Office, exhibits the
total sales of lands in each state and territory in the Valley
of the Mississippi, (excepting the western parts of Virginia
and Pennsylvania, Kentucky, and Tennessee,) during nine
years and a half—that is, from the 1st of July, 1820, to
the 1st of December, 1829. This document must prove
interesting to every citizen of our country, as it goes to
show the immense purchases of its lands, the consequent
increase and spread of its population, and its additional
strength and improvement.*
Acres.

lOOths,

1,405,267 73
In Ohio, In Indiana,
2,169,149 70
In Illinois,
667,200 44
In Missouri,
923,506 32
1,459,054 78
In Alabama,
In Mississippi, 544,523 82
In Louisiana,
158,839 35
In Michigan,
443,209 23
In Arkansas,
59,899 36
In Florida,
336,567 50
* In 1830, the sales of public land in the West amounted to $2,329,356,
and in 1831, to $3,000,000.

CLIMATE AKV DISEASES.

67

The preceding statements show not only the rapid settlement of the West during the last ten or eleven years, but
also the relative size, if I may so express myself, of the
column of emigration to each of the states which are named.
In 1790 Kentucky became an independent state, and was
admitted into the Union ; in 1796 Tennessee was received
into the Union ; Ohio in 1803; Louisiana in 1812 ; Indiana
in 1816; Mississippi in 1817 ; Illinois in 1818 ; Alabama
in 1820 ; and Missouri in 1821. The Territory of Michigan was organized in 1805 ; Arkansas in 1819; and Florida in 1822. Within ten or fifteen years from this time,
Arkansas, Michigan, and Florida will become states; and
probably another will be formed in the District of Huron,
on the upper Mississippi. Should the West increase in
population, for the next forty years, in the same ratio in
which it has increased during the last forty, the majority
of the population of the Union will be in the Valley of the
Mississippi before the end of that period. That such will
be the fact does not admit of a question ; it is conceded by
all who have paid any attention to the subject.

CHAPTER VIII.
Climate and Diseases.
1. CLIMATE.—The vast extent of the Valley of the Mississippi necessarily imparts to its climate a diversified character. The new states and territories already organized
within its limits, are ten in number ; # while portions of
two of the old states extend into the same region. The new
may be divided into the ivarm and temperate. The former are Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and the southern
half of the territory of Arkansas—the latter, Tennessee,
Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri.
The
first group lie between the latitudes of 30° and 35° ; the
second, extend from the parallel last mentioned, to that
of42°» Hence the first division corresponds with South
Carolina and Georgia—the second with North Carolina,
Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Jersey, and the southern
* Exclusive of Florida and Michigan.

68

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

part of New York. In estimating the change of climate to
which emigrants from the old states will subject themselves
in settling in the new, it should be recollected, that Tennessee lies in the rear of North Carolina, Kentucky of Virginia; and that Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri,
stretch out behind Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware,
New Jersey, and the southern part of New York. The
New Englander, and New Yorker north of the mountains
of West Point, should bear in mind that his migration is
not to the West, but South West; and as necessarily brings
him into a warmer climate as when he seeks the shores of
the Delaware, Potomac, or James' River.
Besides variations of latitude, several causes conspire to
produce diversities in climate. Between the Lower Mississippi states, and the portions of the old states corresponding with them in latitude, these causes are neither numerous
nor powerful; and hence,on the same parallels, their differences of climate are less than the differences between the
upper states of the Great Valley, and corresponding portions
of the Union near the sea board. First—the elevation of
the land above the surface of the ocean, is nearly the same
in Louisiana, iVrkansas, Mississippi, and Alabama, as in
Georgia and South Carolina. Second—Their geographical
relation to the sea is similar. Third—-Neither of them is
contiguous to mountains, except the north-west portions of
South Carolina. Hence, the emigrant from the banks of
the Santee or the Savannah River, to those of the Lower
Mississippi or Red River, if he keep in the same latitude,
will experience but little change of climate. He will observe, however, in his new residence, that north-east winds,
attended with cool rains, are less frequent ; and, on the
contrary, that the south-west wind is more prevalent, and
perhaps more humid—as it does not, like that of the country
he has left, undergo the modifying influence of the peniusula of Florida. The northern parts of Alabama and Mississippi, are occasionally visited with snows several inches
deep, and frosts that congeal the surface ; but their duration
is transient; while in the southern parts of the same states,
and in Arkansas and Louisiana, these phenomena are much
rarer. In their upland parts, these warm states have, on the
whole, winters, which are dry, frosty, and bracing : in the
maritime portions, raw, humid, and rainy. In the former,

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

69

the summers are fair, and not intemperate; in the latter,
hot, infested with thunder gusts, and often sultry.
The inhabitant of New England, or indeed of any of the
old states north of the Potomac, who starts on a migration
to the states which are bounded on the south by the Gulf
of Mexico, should be prepared to encounter a decided
change of climate, consisting in increased heat throughout
the year, and especially in a prolonged sumrner , in more copious rains, and in a greater prevalence of south-west winds.
The emigrant from the shores of the Mediterranean,
will find in this portion of the Valley of the Mississippi, the
nearest approach to his own climate, though eight or ten
degrees further south; but he should prepare himself for
greater extremes between summer and winter, than he
has been accustomed to in Italy, or the south of France.
The greater emigration to the Upper, or temperate
Mississippi states, than to the lower, renders the study of
their climate, compared with that of the Atlantic states
and Europe, more interesting than the inquiry through
which we have just passed.
As in most cases, it is not less useful to inquire into
causes than to look merely at effects, I shall direct the
attention of those who contemplate an emigration from the
Atlantic to the Western states, to some of the circumstances which may be presumed to modify the climates of the
two regions.
First—The Atlantic states have an ocean on one sidey,
lakes on another, and mountains, between 2 and 3000 feet
high, on a third—the first and last of which are so contiguous to the emigrating portions of these states, as to exert a
decided influence on their climate. On the other hand, the
Upper, or temperate Mississippi states, are remote from the
sea, and comparatively remote from mountains; but have
on one side more extensive lakes than those which skirt the
Atlantic states. The ocean lies to the east of the latter,
and the Allegheny Mountains to the west; while the states
in the interior have the Lakes to the north, and the Alleghenies to the east—varieties in the physical geography of the
two sections, that cannot fail to exert an influence on the
temperature and humidity of their winds. Thus, the northeast, east, and south-east winds of the sea board, are always
much more damp than those of the interior. In spring

70

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI*

summer, and autumn, they bring more copious rains ; and
in winter, deeper snows. They are also more frequent
and violent than in the Upper Mississippi states. Finally,
in winter they are warmer; and in summer, as coming
from the surface of the ocean, would be more fresh and
temperate than in the Valley of the Mississippi, were it
not for the Allegheny Mountains, which cool the currents
that roll over them to that region. These mountains, on
the other hand, reduce the temperature of the south-west
and west winds, which blow from the interior of the continent towards the ocean, and give to the people of the middle maritime states, a succession of less sultry breezes in
summer than envelope their brethren in the west. For
the same reason, the north-west wind is drier and colder,
at the same season, on the leeward than the windward side
of the Alleghenies.
Second—The courses of rivers, by changing in some
degree the direction of the winds, exert an influence on
climate. In the Atlantic states, from New England to
North Carolina, the rivers run more or less to the southeast, and increase the winds which blow from the northwest, while the great bed of the Mississippi exerts an equal
influence in augmenting the number and steadiness of the
winds which blow over it from the south-west; and here
is another cause of difference in climate, chiefly perceptible,
first, in the temperature, which, if no counteracting cause
existed, they would raise in the west considerably above
that of corresponding latitudes in the east—and, secondly,
in the moisture of the two regions, which is generally
greater west than east of the mountains, when the southwest wind prevails, as much of the water, with which it
comes charged from the Gulf of Mexico, is deposited before
it reaches the country east of the Alleghenies.
Third—The great cities of Boston, New-York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, are but a few feet above the level of the
sea, and the country connected with them has but little elevation—while the towns which are rising on the banks of
the Upper Mississippi, the Missouri, Wabash, Ohio, Cumberland, and Tennessee Rivers, are elevated about 500 feet
above the surface of the ocean, and the intervening country
about 250 feet more. The influence of this elevation, so
often overlooked in comparing the climates of the eastern

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

71

and western states, would give cooler summers to the latter than the former, were it not for the greater prevalence
of south-west winds in the region of greater elevation. To
estimate the full effect of this superior elevation, it is necessary to refer to the increasing altitude of the immense
unwooded plain down which the Missouri flows from the
Oregon Mountains, which themselves rise to the varying
height of 5, 6, and 7000 feet, and give to the western winds,
which would otherwise arrive moist and temperate from
the Pacific Ocean, a decided character of transparency
and coldness.
Fourth—The west abounds in lofty forests, of far greater
extent than the east—an element of difference in the climate of the two, the influence of which must be admitted,
although its exact amount cannot, perhaps, be estimated.
Forests are said to retard the velocity of the winds, and
increase the precipitation of their moisture. It is more
certain that in spring, summer, and autumn, they intercept
the rays of the sun, most of which are thus reflected before
they reach the surface of the earth, and copious evaporation is prevented. They seem, also, to promote the condensation of vapour, from the surrounding air ; and may
be considered as one of the causes of the more copious
dews, which are said to fall west than east of the mountains.
Fifth—The general inclination of the surface of the Atlantic states is to the east and south-east—that of the Mississippi states to the south. Were these angles of inclination great, their effects upon the temperature of the two
regions would be decisive ; but being slight, the increased
heat of the west, from this cause, is not perhaps very
considerable.
Such are the leading causes of any differences of climate
which may exist between the states which lie on the sea,
and those on the Upper Mississippi, and its tributaries.
These differences, especially in temperature, have been
much dwelt upon, ever since the publication of Mr. Jefferson's celebrated Notes on Virginia, in 1781. But as it respects the heat of summer, they have been greatly overrated. Two causes have contributed to augment and perpetuate the error: First—The extensive popularity of Mr.
Jefferson's book. Secondly—The great number of emigrants from New England, and New York, most of whom

72

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

have been unconscious how much they had changed their
latitude in a migration to the interior, and have made reports
concerning the heat of the latter, in the same language as if
they had travelled on the latitudes in which they were born.
As a general fact, the settlers from Virginia, in Kentucky,
and from Maryland and Pennsylvania, in the states north
of the Ohio River, have not complained of hotter summers
than they had been accustomed to experience in their native
land. It is probable, however, that the summer temperature of the west, is rather greater than that of the east, in
corresponding latitudes ; an effect, as far as it exists, to be
ascribed chiefly to the greater prevalence of south-west
winds in the former than the latter—and to the influence
of the Allegheny Mountains, over which those winds must
pass to reach the Atlantic states. Both these causes,
however, are in a good degree compensated by the greater
elevation of the interior, as already pointed out. So great
is the effect of this elevation, that in the middle of the state
of Ohio, where it is nearly 1000 feet above the level of
the sea, the temperature is probably lower than in corresponding latitudes of eastern Pennsylvania.
To solve the problem of comparative temperature, accurate contemporary observations should be made on compared
thermometers, placed under similar circumstances in a great
number of situations ; but this has not yet been done. The
only points that admit of a comparison approaching to this,
are Cincinnati and Philadelphia or its vicinity—the former,
however, situated about 50' south of the latter.
From a series of daily observations in Cincinnati or its
vicinity, for eight consecutive years, the mean annual temperature has been ascertained to be 54 degrees and a
quarter. Dr. Rush states the mean heat of Philadelphia,
at 52 degrees and a half; Dr. Coxe, from six years' observations, at 54 and a sixth ; and Mr. Legaux, from 17
years' observations, at Spring Mill, a few miles out of the
city, at 53 and a third; the mean term of which results,
53 and a third, is but the fraction of a degree lower than
the mean heat of Cincinnati, and actually less than should
be afforded by the difference of latitude.
A reference to the temperatures of summer and winter,
will give nearly the same results. From nine years' observations (three at Spring Mill by Mr. Legaux, and six in

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

73

Philadelphia by Dr. Coxe,) the mean summer heat of that
part of Pennsylvania, appears to be 76 degrees, and sixtenths. The mean summer heat at Cincinnati, for an
equal number of years, was 74 and four-tenths. The average number of days, in which the thermometer rose to 90
degrees or upwards, during the same period, was 14 each
summer; and the greatest elevation observed was 98 degrees : all of which would bear an almost exact comparison
with similar observations in Pennsylvania. Mr. Legaux
states the most intense cold, at Spring Mill, from 1787 to
1806, to have been 17 and five-tenths degrees below
cipher—while within the same period it was 18 at Cincinnati. The average of extreme cold for several years, as
observed by Mr. Legaux, was one and eight-tenths of a
degree below cipher : the same average at Cincinnati, was
two degrees below. From all which we may conclude,
that the banks of the Delaware and Ohio, in the same latitudes, have nearly the same temperature.
The interior states have not only been declared much
warmer than the eastern, in the same latitudes, but denounced as liable to sudden and extreme changes, in a degree
entirely unknown in the latter. This opinion has, perhaps,
in part, arisen from the report of emigrants—who, upon
settling in the new country, have had their curiosity awakened, and become, for the first time in their lives, attentive to
natural appearances. They have then gone on to compare
the sudden changes in the west, with those of the climate
left behind; but which, unfortunately, they had never observed—and, of course, decide in its favor. The thermometers of the two countries indicate no material difference on
this point, as appears from what follows. Mr. Volney states
the annual range of the mercury, in Pennsylvania, on an
average, at 100°. Mr. Legaux even makes it more. At
Cincinnati, it is exactly 100°. The extreme range, taking
the cold in one year, and the heat in another, in Pennsylvania, according to various authorities, is about 120 degrees ;
the difference in the west in the course of 25 years, has
not exceeded 116°. The difference between the warmest
and coldest times of each day in the year, I have found by
comparing the manuscript journal of Mr. Legaux with my
own, is at least as great on the Schuylkill as the Ohio.
President Day has kindly furnished me with a statement of
7

74

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

this difference at New Haven, for two years—from which 1
find, that the daily changes from cold to heat, were about
one degree greater at Cincinnati than at New Haven—
but the opposite changes were two and a quarter degrees
greater there than in Cincinnati. And at a short distance
from the sea board, the difference would be still more
striking. An inquiry into those sudden and irregular reductions of temperature, which are every where deprecated5
would give results in no degree unfavorable to the west.
No fall of the mercury at Cincinnati has ever exceeded
20° in an hour and a half, which Dr. Rush states to have
taken place in Pennsylvania. The Doctor also asserts,
that the thermometor has fallen 41 i ° ; and Mr. Legaux
saw it fall 47° in 24 hours—which is five degrees more
than any depression ever observed in Cincinnati, in the
same length of time. Finally, Dr. Rush declares that there
is but one steady trait in the character of the climate of
Pennsylvania—and that is, it is uniformly variable. From
these evidences, to say nothing of others, I think the opinion that the climate of the west is more changeable than
that of corresponding latitudes in the maritime districts, is
proved to be without any sufficient foundation.
Let us recur to the winds, the great modifiers of climate
in every country. I have already referred to the greater
prevalence of south-west winds in the interior—of northeast and north-west winds in the maritime states. Not
having at hand the materials for an extended comparison,
1 shall insert a tabular view of observations made at Cincinnati, for six succeeding years, with so few omissions,
that they amount to 4200. They have been brought to the
eight principal points of the compass; and while they
show the relative prevalence of different winds in the successive months of the year, will furnish data for comparisons between the western and eastern states, by those who
reside and observe in the latter.

75

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.
OBSERVATIONS.
MONTHS.

January,
February,
March,
April,
May,
June,
July,
August,
September,
October, .
November,
December,
Total,

S.E. S. S.W. N.E. N. N.W.:E. W. CALM.II
6

5
10
7

?
9
6
6
6
9
9
7

2 13

1
1
0
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
1

13
16
24
19
23
19
23
23
24
13
11

1 21
8 1 14
11 1 10
10 1 8
10 0 10
12 5 7
11 2 11
10 1 12
9 0 8
6 1 10
6 1 10
5 0 15
8

87 14221 106 14 136

3
0
0
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2

6
5
5
3
4
2
4
1
3
4
7
6

16 50

6 |
|
8

4
5
6
3
4
6
3

3 1
5 '
9

62 1

From this table it appears, 1. That the different winds
of Cincinnati prevail in the following order :—South-west,
—north-west,—north-east,—south-east,—west,—east,—
south,—and north. 2. That the south-west is the prevalent wind nine months out of the twelve, viz. from March
to November inclusive. 3. That the N . W . wind prevails
in January, December, and February. 4. That the greatest number of calm days are in December and February;
the least in June, September, and October, which are
equal. 5. That the southern are to the northern winds,
as 322 to 256 ; or about 40 to 32. 6. That the western
are the prevalent winds throughout the whole year ; being
to the eastern as 407 to 209, or nearly as 4 to 2. 7. That
the west wind blows only half as much in the six warmer,
as in the six colder months. 8. That the east, south, and
north winds are nearly equal.
Most of these deductions are exhibited by the following
table ; in which the whole number of observations, stated
above, are supposed to be represented by 1000, and the
subsequent numbers to be its fractional parts.

76

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
MEAN OF 6 YEARS OBSERVATIONS.

1000, of which the South-east make South,
South-west,
Southern,
North-west,
North, - North-east,
Northern,
South-east, East,
- North-east,
Eastern,
South-west,
West, - North-west,
Western,
Calm, - -

122
19
313
454
192
19
150
361
122
22
150
294
313
70
192
575
87

A brief sketch of the character of the principal winds
embraced in these tables, may be useful to those who propose to emigrate to the West.
1. The South- West,—This wind, which, as we have just
seen, prevails on the Ohio three-fourths of the year, exhibits
two different characters, or is divisible into twovaiieties
—the humid and the arid. The former of these is characterised by prevailing throughout the night; by generally
continuing two or three days after its commencement; by
alternating with the north-east wind; by sinking .the
barometer more than any other aerial current; and by
always causing clouds, and generally rain, which is often
profuse. The arid south-west commences between sunrise
and ten o'clock in the morning. It is at first very gentle,
and increases in force with the progress of the day until
four or five o'clock in the evening, when it begins to subside. About sun-set it ceases, and the succeeding night is
clear and serene. This is the predominant wind in the
hottest and driest weather, with which indeed it is identified in the mind of every observer in the West. Its prevalence, in comparison with the other variety, is perhaps as
eight or ten to one. It is seldom attended with an atmosphere altogether cloudless, but never produces any other

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

77

form of rain than a thunder shower. It sinks the barometer less than the humid south-west, but raises the thermometer higher than any other wind. It is not known
whether at present it prevails more or less than upon the
first settlement of the western states.
2. The North -West.—-This wind, like that already described, exhibits two varieties, one of which occurs in warm,
the other in cool weather. A state of calmness, or the dry
south-west, generally precedes and follows the former of
these varieties. It is the gale which attends thunder storms ;
and of course commences to the windward. Its duration
is transient, seldom continuing longer than a few hours,
and its geographical extent is equally limited. The other,
which is the principal variety of north-west wind, begins, it
is well known, to the leeward ; it generally succeeds rain,
and may be regarded as the harbinger of fair weather.
In spring and autumn, however, it is frequently attended
with moderate showers, which seldom continue more than a
day ; and in winter it produces snows, that are sometimes
among the deepest which fall in the valley of the Mississippi,
In common, it does not exhibit any nocturnal intermission, though, for the most part, it blows with less violence
at night, than in the day. It is generally followed by a
calm, which is succeeded by the south-east or south-west
wind. It frequently undergoes a change into the northeast, blowing from every intermediate point of the compass.
On the barometer and thermometer it produces effects op*
posite to those of the south-west wind. The greatest elevation of the former, and depression of the latter of these
instruments, hitherto observed at this place, were during the
prevalence of this wind. The longer it continues, the lower is its temperature ; and when it is not too much reduced,
it feels as pleasant, as it is uniformly pure and invigorating,
3. The North-East.—This current, by ascending the
St. Lawrence, may reach Cincinnati without passing over
the Alleghenies : but it generally traverses those mountains,
and deposits on them, as already stated, a part of its humidity, as appears from "its seldom producing much rain or
snow along the Ohio. Except, however, when it succeeds
to the moist south-west, and follows a storm, this wind constantly produces one of them, or at least cloudy weather.
In temperature and weight, it holds a medium between the

78

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

south-west and north-west. It sometimes continues to blow
for a week after a south-west storm, during which the sky
will be perhaps nearly clear. It is invariably moist, and
produces in all exposed to it, the sensation termed rawness ;
though in a much less degree than in the Atlantic states.
4. The South-East.—This partakes much of the character of the humid south-west, for it raises the thermometer and sinks the barometer in a moderate degree. It is
always damp and generally produces rain or snow. It
frequently succeeds to the north-west, and is then for the
most part attended with a clear sky.
5. The West.—This is generally a cool and rapid wind.
From the region it traverses in reaching this place, it must
necessarily be dry and enlivening. In the winter, when
it continues long enough for the air of the Oregon Mountains to arrive, it produces intense cold, sinking the thermometer sometimes below cipher.
6. The North, East, and South.—These winds do not
prevail, respectively, more than one week in each year.
The first seems to possess most of the qualities of the
north-west; and the second of the north-east; the third
appears to be a modification of the humid south-west, and
is always stormy.
In regard to the weather, on the Ohio, the following
table setting forth the results of 4268 observations, will
afford sufficient information for the general reader. Observations made in other parts of the upper Mississippi states,
would, probably, give nearly the same proportions of clear
and cloudy weather.
Clear Days.
Cloudy Days. Variable Days
180
107
68
158
112
91
187
78
85152
106
107
185
111
68
172
112
74
172.33

104.33

82.16

From these results, it may be expected, that of the 365
days in the year, about 176 will be fair, 105 cloudy, and
84* variable.
The condition of the weather, in each month of a mean

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

79

year, for the abo ve period, is exhibited in the following
statement :
Clear Days. Cloudy Days. Variable Days.

January, .
February, .
March,
April,
May,
.
June,
.
July,
August,
September,
October,
November,
December,

.
.
,
.
.
.
.

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

9.8
10.3
13.5
13.1
15.0
15.5
19.0
19.6
19.5
16.1
9.5
9.6

13.1
12.0
9.1
10.8
8.5
5,0
5.5
4.6
5.3
6.0
13.5
14.1

7.8
6.5
8.3
7.6
7.5
9.6
6.0
6.5
6.1
• 8.1
5.5
5.8

From this table it appears, that July, August, and September, have the greatest, and each about an equal number,
of fair days; that October, June, and May, compose the
next class; to which succeed the months of March and
April, followed by February, December, January, and
November; that in the four latter months there is the
greatest proportion of cloudy weather; that next to these
rank April, March, and May, succeeded by the remaining
months, which are nearly equal. Lastly, that in the number
of days which are variable, according to the sense in which
that term is here employed, there is among the months no
great difference.
The quantity of water in the form of rain and snow,
which falls annually in the West, has not been accurately
ascertained. It is probably, about thirty-six inches, and
nearly the same as in corresponding latitudes east of the
mountains. Taking the mean of a series of years, it is
found that in April and May there falls the largest quantity ;
next to these are November, March, December, July, and
October, succeeded by January, August, February, September, and June. The same months, in different years,
afford very different quantities of rain. September has
been observed to vary in this respect, from less than an
inch to more than five ; October from half an inch to eight;
and April from two to nine. The spring rains are sometimes excessive, and protracted for eight or ten weeks ,
*
during which there are showers perhaps, on an average,

80

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

every third day. During the spring of 1813, there fell
upwards of sixteen inches ; four times the quantity which
fell in the ensuing four months. At other times, this state
of things is reversed. In the spring of 1814, there fell
not more than nine inches ; and in the three subsequent
months, the quantity was equal to fourteen.
Every irregular distribution of the spring and summer
rains, is of course prejudicial to agriculture. The copious
and long continued storms of the former season, now and
then check the early growth, or even prevent the planting,
of many important vegetables. To these rains such dry
summers occasionally succeed, that the pastures are consumed, the leaves of the Indian corn become curled, and
those of many forest trees, in dry situations, die and fall off
before the usual time. But, fortunately, such extraordinary
droughts occur too seldom, and are too limited in their
extent, to be regarded as any great calamity,
From the Valley of the Tennessee River, to the summit
level, between the lakes and the waters which flow into
the Ohio, the snows become deeper and deeper. In Tennessee they seldom exceed a few inches—in the centre and
northern parts of Ohio and Indiana, they sometimes, as
was the case in the winter of 1830-31, fall to the depth of
two feet. North of the Ohio River the snows are deeper
in proportion to the latitude, than they are on the opposite
side ; which is owing perhaps to two causes, first, the greater elevation of the interior of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio;
secondly, the vicinity of the lakes. At -Cincinnati, the
deepest snow which falls does not exceed a foot; but one
third of that depth is a more common maximum for the
winter. This being the case, and periods of mild weather
with rain occurring frequently, in almost every winter
month, the ground is seldom covered for any great length
of time. Severe winters, however, have occurred a number of times, in which the same snow has continued on the
ground for several weeks, during which the Ohio was
bridged with ice from its sources to its mouth. This happened as far back as 1796, and was repeated as late as
1831-2, showing that no particular change of climate has
yet taken place in the West.
More snow probably falls east of the mountains than west
below the latitude of 40°—-above that parallel, the difference is not perceptible. This can be easily explained.

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

81

In the maritime states, every eastern wind, in winter?
almost of necessity brings snow, as it transfers the atmosphere of the seas, over the colder surface of the continent.
In the West, the great lakes supply, in this respect, the
place of the Atlantic Ocean, and augment the depth of the
snows, for two degrees to the south of their shores.
The fogs of the western rivers are said to be denser,
than those of the eastern, but additional facts are nesessary
to an accurate estimate.
In tornadoes, hail-storms, winter thaws, and floods, summer frosts, premature springs, anticipating autumns, and
other anomalies, the climates of the East and West, in
the same latitudes, seem not materially to differ.
In the interior states, the pleasantest travelling and emigrating months, are April, May, and June ; September after
the equinox, the entire month of October* and the first half
of November. The vernal travelling season, is more showery than the autumnal, but from the fulness of the rivers
and the lively green of the forests and fields, more cheerful.
The autumn is smoky, dusty, and often deficient in water,
but serene, equable in temperature and decorated with leaves
of every tint, which present the traveller of taste with an
untiring succession of picturesque and beautiful views.
DISEASES.
1. Of the warm Mississippi States.—The diseases of
this portion of the great Valley are few, and prevail chiefly
in summer and autumn* They are the offspring of the combined action of intense heat and marsh exhalation ; and pre*
vail, especially in the vicinity of water courses, ponds,
lagoons, and marshes. The population of the villages and
country generally, are visited by remitting and intermitting
bilious fevers. New Orleans and Natchez are infested with
the same maladies, particularly the former, and experience,
in addition, occasional attacks of yellow fever. To the
whole of these diseases the natives, both Creole and AngloAmerican, are much less liable, than emigrants, who must,
in general, undergo a seasoning, which in sickly situations
is apt to be repeated ; and often proves fatal, or greatly
enfeebles the constitution, by producing chronic inflammation of the liver, or enlargement of the spleen, terminating
in jaundice 3 or dropsy ; and greatly disordering the diges-

82

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

tive organs. Inflammation of the liver, both acute and
chronic, is, indeed, an exceedingly common malady in this
region ; and in a great degree, replaces those affections of
the lungs, which are so fatal in the North, and so rare in
the South. When an Individual finds himself subject to
an annual attack of fever, or seized with inflammation of
the liver, the chronic varieties of which are sometimes extremely insidious, his only safe resource is a yearly migration to the north, in the month of April or May, where he
should remain till October. Should he resolve to defy the
climate, he will probably fall a victim to his temerity.
The much dreaded yellow fever, as it but seldom returns,
and is nearly limited to the larger towns, carries off but few
persons, compared with the maladies just named; but its
victims are chiefly selected from the emigrant population.
When it breaks out, none who are not acclimated should
venture to remain within its reach.
Those who migrate from a colder climate to the southern Mississippi states, should observe the following directions. First—To arrive there in autumn, instead of spring
or summer. Second—-If practicable, to spend the hottest
part of the first two or three years, in a higher latitude.
Third—-To select the healthiest situations. Fourth—To
live temperately. Fifth—To preserve a regular habit.
Lastly, to avoid the heat of the sun from 10 in the morning
till 4 in the afternoon, and above all the night air. By a
strict attention to these rules, many would escape the diseases of the climate, who annually sink under its baleful
influence.
Were the other portions of the year in these southern
climates as insalubrious as the summer and early autumn,
the destruction of human life would be frightful; but, happily, no region on earth is healthier for eight months of the
year, than that which we are now considering. During
this period, there is, it is true, some disease ; but it is
chiefly that which was generated in the hot season. The
latter part of the autumn, and the entire winter and spring
seasons, originate fewer maladies than in almost any other
part of the Union. Thus it is, that the balance between
liabilities and exemptions is maintained, and the wisdom
and goodness of Heaven practically manifested.
2. As we advance northwardly, and at the same time ascend on the great inclined plane, which extends from the

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

83

Gulf of Mexico nearly to the shores of the lakes, the diseases constantly become more diversified, and more equally
distributed throughout the year. The intense and steady
heat of a protracted summer, is replaced by a variable
temperature, with a greater diurnal range of the thermometer. Spring and autumn bring a rapid succession of hot,
or at least warm and frosty days. The northern and southern winds come into perpetual conflict, and neither predominates very long. The winters lengthen, and the cold
becomes intense—but still, on the banks of the Ohio, and
up the Mississippi to the mouth of the Missouri, thaws
and warm rains, with south-west winds, occur more or
less in every month, from November to March. It is not
till we pass the latitude of 40°, that the empire of frost in
winter is tolerably established. Beyond that degree, the
cold of winter is about as steady as is the heat of summer
below the latitude of 34°. Between those two parallels,
neither summer nor winter has much constancy.
Thus the temperate, or upper Mississippi states, are far
more infested with the maladies which depend on variations
of temperature, than the southern division; and from the
autumnal to the vernal equinox, are much more unhealthy.
If the other, or the hot portion of the year, in this northern
division, was exempt from the diseases depending on great
heat and marsh exhalations, the boast of its inhabitants,
when comparing their lot with that of their southern
friends, would be better founded than it is. But along all
the streams, more especially those which have alluvial
bottom lands, which are annually overflown, and where
the forests and original vegetation have been but partially
subdued, the inhabitants are liable to the summer diseases
of the south—some of which, as cholera and dysentery,
• seem to be more frequent and violent than towards the
Gulf. Others, however, as the numerous varieties of bilious fever, are incomparably less general and malignant.
From these observations it may be collected,that the two
great causes of disease in the upper Mississippi, or western
states, are variations of temperature and marsh exhalation.
A third cause is supposed to be the water. Throughout
most of these states, which have a limestone foundation,—the
imperishable basis of their wealth,—the spring and well water is hard. This, by those who have lived elsewhere, in

84

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

sand-stone regions, or on primitive or transition rock formations, where the water is soft, is believed to be unhealthy.
To them, it may indeed prove so at first, but their systems
soon become reconciled to the change ; and 1 have not, as
yet, seen any evidence that this kind of water produces a
single permanent disease. In the fourth place, the question
is often asked, are not fogs unhealthy 1 Do they not produce ague and fever 1 The answer, I think, should be in
the negative. I have not observed, that those who are constantly exposed to them are more unhealthy ; or, indeed, as
unhealthy as many others in society, who are not exposed to
them. Fogs are but water in a state of vapour, through
which exhalations of a poisonous nature may, it is true, be
diffused ; but these exhalations, sent up from the surface
of the earth through the day, appear to subside in the
evening with the dews, before the fogs begin to arise ; and
hence, an exposure to the former, is far more dangerous
than the latter.
Passing from causes to effects, I shall proceed to enumerate the principal diseases which seem to have connexion with the soil and climate of the West.
In autumn, winter, and early spring, the pleurisy, severe
colds, croup, and those forms of disease of the lungs, which
have received the name of " hasty consumption," are of
frequent occurrence. True, hereditary, consumption is
however, a rare disease in the West, compared with NewYork or New England—and families which, remaining on
the banks of the Hudson or Connecticut River, would be cut
offby that malady, might often be preserved, by a migration
to the Valley of the Ohio, the Cumberland, or Wabash.
Acute inflammations of the brain, of the liver, and of the
joints, in the form of rheumatism, are, likewise, of frequent
occurrence, during the cold and variable portions of the year.
From the accession of hot weather, commencing in Tennessee with the month of May, and on Lake Erie with its
close, till after the autumnal equinox, summer diseases prevail over all the West—but are most rife in the valleys, and
above all on the shores of the lake. These maladies may
be divided into two groups : First, cholera infantum,—or
the summer sickness of children—cholera morbus, diarrhoea, colic, and dysentery. The first of these complaints,
in the west, as in other parts of the United States, is more fre-

CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

85

quent and fatal in the towns than the country ; though the
latter is by no means so exempt as is generally supposed.
Dysentery is not of constant annual recurrence. Many
summers pass without originating a single case—while
others produce it as an epidemic, spreading indiscriminately over the hills and vallies, and affecting equally the
dense and sparse population.
The family of diseases, just enumerated, precede and
follow the summer solstice ; but, with the exception of
dysentery, rarely run into autumn. They are the legitimate offspring of hot days and cool nights, and almost invariably display the greatest violence in June and July.
Secondly. To the summer, succeed the autumnal diseases of the west, which are, substantially, the same that
prevail in the south. They often begin in summer, and
very commonly continue till arrested by the frosts of autumn. These maladies are intermitting and remitting bilious fevers—the former of which, in their various shades,
have received the names of ' ague,' ' dumb ague,' and
* chill and fever.' The intermitting fever is essentially a
disease of the country, instead of the larger towns; and
prevails much more in the vallies, and on the slopes of the
hills that bound them, than on the uplands. Its relative
prevalence in different years is very different. It often
graduates into the remitting fever. This is the most formidable of the summer and autumnal diseases of the west;
and, in some seasons, appears with a degree of malignity
approaching to that which it displays in the south. Unlike
intermitting fever, it prevails as much or more in the towns
than in the country. In most years, it is a mild and manageable disease ; but sometimes, as just intimated, proves
exceedingly fatal—which may be the case in one town,
while others are but little affected; and in another year
the case will be reversed.
When this malady becomes protracted, it commonly
passes into ague and fever. In this form it frequently recurs through the winter and succeeding spring, when
relapses of intermitting fever are, likewise, apt to occur.
They are generally the immediate consequence of exposure
to a cold and damp atmosphere.
A form of winter or relapsing intermittent fever, is * periodical head-ache,' or ' sun pain,' so called by the people,
8

86

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

from the well known fact, that the fit generally comes on
in the morning about sun-rise, and seldom continues after
sun-set. It is a painful, but not a dangerous disease.
Sore eyes may be mentioned as a prevailing disease of
the western states. They are more common in the newly
than the old settled parts of the country ; and prevail more
in autumn than any other season. Treated even by a skilful physician, they often prove obstinate ; and, neglected or
improperly managed, are frequently followed by blindness.
In several parts of the west, a disease prevails, which
has received the appellation of < sick stomach,' from its
prominent symptoms, nausea and frequent vomiting, especially on taking exercise. It is, also, called ' milk sickness,' from an opinion, that it is produced by the milk of
cows, which have fed on some poisonous plant. It has
likewise been ascribed to the water of certain springs, and
to marsh exhalations. The cause, however, is perhaps
unknown, and it seems to be evanishing.
Goitre, or ' swelled neck,' once prevailed on the upper
waters of the Ohio, particularly in and about Pittsburg, but
has nearly disappeared.
Typhus, or nervous fevers, are sometimes considerably
prevalent in the western towns; but, on the whole, are, I
think, less frequent and fatal than in the east.
Dyspepsia, and liver complaints of a chronic kind, are
troublesome maladies in the Mississippi states, especially
in the cities. In many cases, they have seemed to me to
arise from the same cause with autumnal fever, the poison
acting feebly on the system ; but more commonly they are
the offspring of abuses in the use of tea and ardent spirits.
As to measles, small-pox, scarlet fever, and other diseases of that natural class, they prevail occasionally in the
west, in the same manner as in other countries.
Let not the eastern reader be alarmed, at the catalogue of
diseases which I have enumerated. He should recollect
that most of them prevail in his own section of the Union,
and often with great mortality ; while some, as consumption, and 1 might add typhus fever and dysentery, are far
more fatal in the east than the west. Nor should the Lower Mississippi states be considered preferable to the Upper,
on the score of health ; for, although they are sickly but
four months of the year, yet such is the extent and energy

INDIAN TRIBES, MONUMENTS, & C

87

of the diseases which then prevail, as more than to counterbalance the whole year in the temperate states.
That these states are not unfavourable to human life,
may be inferred from the unprecedented increase in their
population. The number of inhabitants in Tennessee,
Kentucky, Missouri, Illinois, Indiana and Ohio, is at least
three millions. Had they been unhealthy, it is quite incredible that in the short period of half a century, so great
a number could have congregated within those commonwealths. Was the climate especially fatal to emigrants,
the number cut off, and the number repelled, must have
given a ratio of increase, far beneath that which has actually existed. As to a seasoning, or acclimation, I am
doubtful whether in the temperate Mississippi states, it has
any existence. At Cincinnati, I am sure it can seldom be
perceived. When formidable and fatal diseases have prevailed, they have as often attacked those long resident in
the city, as the ' new comers ;' and nothing is more common, than to see persons arrive at all periods of the spring,
summer, and early autumn, and still enjoy as good health
as if they had entered its atmosphere at the winter solstice.
I would, however, caution travellers and ' movers,' against
much journeying in September and early October, when
bilious fevers prevail; for, however secure they might be,
if they could be transferred, without a journey, to a western town, the usual process of reaching it in autumn, over
land, the necessary mode when the waters are low, is apt
to generate serious diseases.

CHAPTER IX.
Indian Tribes, Monuments, &c.

HAVING in the last Chapter remarked on the climate
of the Valley of the Mississippi in reference to temperature, diseases, dec. I now proceed to give some account
of the Indian inhabitants, their manners, customs, present
state, &c. together with some notices of those ancient
remains which are still to be found in almost every part
of the West.

88

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

When North America was discovered, it was in the occupancy of a great number of tribes of Indians who derived
their means of subsistence almost solely from fishing and
hunting. And when the first settlements were made in the
north part of the Valley of the Mississippi, by the French
in 1670 at Detroit, and during the next fifty years, at Biloxi,
Mobile, New Orleans, Natchez, Post of Arkansas, &c. in the
southern part, that vast country was filled with numerous
tribes, possessing indeed striking and similar traits of
national character, and the same habits of living, although
widely differing in language. Within the next succeeding
fifty years, say from 1720 to 1770, French colonies and
trading posts were planted in Tennessee, Upper Alabama,
the interior of Mississippi, on the Red River, Arkansas,
and along the Ohio at various points from its mouth to its
sources, and on the shores of Lake Erie ; whilst in the latter portion of that period, the English commenced the
establishment of colonies and trading posts within the eastern verge of the Valley, and indeed, before the close of that
period, had gained possession of the whole country east of
the Mississippi River. So that during the last seventy or
eighty years almost the whole of the eastern side of the Valley and a part of the western, has passed from the possession
of the Indian inhabitants into that of the whites*
When we look back to the state of this valley one hundred years ago, we find that every portion of it was occupied by powerful tribes and nations, the names of many of
which are handed down to us in the early histories of the
country. But widely different is the present state of
things. Several large and powerful tribes have been
destroyed by intestine wars, or, what is more deplorable,
by wars with the civilized emigrants, who have gained
possession of the best part of the Valley.
What are called the Southern Indians are the Choctaws,
Cherokees, Chickasaws, Creeks, and Seminoles, inhabiting
parts of Mississippi, Alabama, Tennessee, North Carolina,
Georgia, and Florida. These tribes are entirely insulated
now from those which are west of the Mississippi. They
were all once very powerful tribes, and their wars with
each other and with the French and English, and of some
of them with our own government, are well known. At
present the Seminoles are only about 43O00,and the Chicka-

INDIAN TRIBES, MONUMENTS, & C .

89

saws 3,500. While the Choctaws are about 12,000, the
Cherokees 11,000, and the Creeks 20,000,—exclusive of
those portions of the tribes which have removed west of
the Mississippi, and which, if added, would make the number of the Choctaws 18,000, the Cherokees 14,500, and the
Creeks 22,500. The government, it is well known, is endeavouring to remove the portions of these tribes which are
still east of the Mississippi, to a country west of Arkansas
Territory and the state of Missouri, and to place the Choctaws immediately north of the Red River, the Cherokees
between the Arkansas and its great branch the Canadian
River, and the Creeks on the north bank of the Arkansas
River. The Chickasaws are to unite with the Choctaws,
and the Seminoles will have a separate portion of the country. The country which the government has purchased in
that region from the Osages and other tribes, contains
about 100 millions of acres. The Creeks and Seminoles
have recently sold their lands in Alabama and Florida to
the United States, and will probably remove within two
years. The Choctaws and Chickasaws have already
commenced removing, having sold their lands a year ago.
In Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, which once contained so
many powerful tribes, are now to be found only scattered
remnants of the Shawanese, Putawatomies, Miamis,pKickapoos, Peorias, Kaskaskias, and Cahokias; and almost all
these are about to remove west of the Mississippi, to the
country granted to them in exchange for their land in these
states.
On the Upper Mississippi and towards Lake Superior,
are the Chippeways, Menomonies, and Winnebagos. About
the lead mines on the Mississippi live the Sacs and Foxes.
In the same region are the Iawas. High up the same
river live the Sioux or Dacotas, extending over to the Missouri. In the Valley of the Missouri River live, in succession as you ascend, the Osages, reaching to the Arkansas;
the Pawnees in three divisions, who were once numerous,
and next to the Sioux in strength; Arickarees, Mandans,
the Minnetarees, Arripahas, Assineboins, Crows, and Blackfeet. On the Arkansas are found the Quapaws, Chiamanches, &c. On the Sabine, and between it and the Red
River, are the remnants of several tribes, residing also
partly in Texas, such as the Appallaches, Chetimaches,

90

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Tunicas, &c. once numerous and powerful. The Cados
are high up on the Red River.
I have no adequate data upon which to give a very accurate statement of the numbers belonging to the tribes
within the Valley of the Mississippi. These tribes are very
numerous, and many of them very small. The following
statement has been made, and is probably as accurate as
any which the reader is likely to find any where.
Creeks,
.
. 22,500
Choctaws, .
. 18,000
Cherokees, .
. 14,500
Seminoles, .
.
4,000
Chickasaws,
.
3,500
Pawnees,
.
.
6,500
Omahas and Otoes,
3,180
Delawares, .
.
1,600
Shawanese, .
.
6,350
Kansas,
.
.
1,500
Osages,
.
.
6,500
Senecas,
.
.
400
Senecas& Shawanese, 320
Miamis,
.
.
1,000
Wyandots, .
.
450
Kickapoos, .
.
1,800
Perias,
Pianka
shaws, Weas, and J. 1,000
Kaskaskias,
Total,

25,000
Sioux,
6,000
Chippeways,
5,000
Black Feet, .
8,000
Assinaboins,
6,500
Putawatamies,
5,300
Winnebagos,
6,300
Sacs, .
4,000
Menomonies,
4,500
Crows,
4,000
Arripahas, .
3,000
Crees,
4,000
Ottawas,
3,000
Algonquins,
And about twenty
other small tribes
including Man- } 25,000
dans, Arickarees,
&c.
J
202,700

It is mournful to look back to the former state of many
of the tribes of this vallley, when the French planted their
numerous trading posts among them, and compare it with
their present condition. Several of the tribes which then
existed are now wholly extinct, or lost in others; and at
least twenty which were then numerous, contain now not
more than from fifty to five hundred souls each ! I do not
attribute this destruction to the influence of the whites, to
the degree which some do. Undoubtedly our wars, and
still more our vices, have done much to ruin the tribes contiguous to us. But other causes and more powerful, unquestionably have existed. For it is a fact that the tribes

INDIAN TRIBES, MONUMENTS, & C .

91

far remote from us have greatly diminished within the last
hundred years. The truth is, it is impossible that a savage
people, living a wretched and wandering life, divided into
separate tribes, almost constantly at war with each other,
can avoid a gradual but certain destruction. For centuries
before the colonizing of the Valley of the Mississippi, these
desolating causes had existed, and had swept away millions from the earth. There is unquestionable evidence, I
think, that this whole continent, and especially the Valley
of the Mississippi, and the neighbouring country of Mexico,
was once inhabited by a vast population, possessing, in
some degree at least, a greater amount of knowledge of the
arts than the present race of Indians.
An uncivilized state of mankind is one of constant tendency to annihiliation, all the world over. Nor need we
marvel at it. From the very nature of the human mind,
and the condition in which men are placed in this world, it
cannot be otherwise. A state of barbarism, is a very miserable one. Its uncertainty, often, of the means of sustenance ; its great destitution of social or individual happiness ; its gloom and dreariness; its want of happiness here,
and its ignorance of life and immortality beyond the
grave,—are unfavourable to a rapid propagation of the
species, or indeed to propagation at all.
There are probably sixty tribes of Indians in the West,
inhabiting a great variety of climates, scattered over a
great extent of country, speaking different dialects ; and
yet they all possess, essentially, the same traits of character, and their manners are not merely similar, but almost
identical. A greater physical and moral resemblance exists among them than is to be found among the inhabitants
of any other region on the globe.
With regard to stature, some of the tribes exceed the
medium height of our people ; this may be said of the Sioux, Osages, and perhaps the Cherokees. Some other
tribes, on the contrary, are rather shorter than the whites
of our country. Their complexion is well known to be
that of a very dark, smoked, copper colour ; and exceedingly similar in all the tribes. The hair is very black, coarse,
of a glossy appearance, and seldom becomes grey, although
this is sometimes the case. The forms of Indians are almost
universally straight, their limbs well proportioned, vigor-

92

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ous, agile, and their bodies seldom corpulent. The feeble
of their children generally die through the hard usage to
which they are subjected. In their gait they have a peculiar motion, and always place one foot immediately
before the other in a right line, and seldom deflect their
toes from that line. They are almost always to be seen
walking in single file, one following immediately after another, even when engaged in earnest conversation.
Their foreheads are broad, slightly retiring, and very
seldom projecting. The nose is prominent, and its base
very much expanded. The cheek bones are high ; the
lips of moderate thickness, and their eyes black. The females have the comparative delicacy of conformation which
in every nation belongs to the sex.
As to moral habits, they are unquestionably indolent as it
regards such labour as we are accustomed to perform.—
This might be expected. Their mode of life from time immemorial has been wholly diverse. They need the exciting circumstances of the chase or war, and then they will
travel further, and perform more incredible exploits of
activity and daring, than those who are unacquainted with
them would imagine to be possible. But steady, unremitting industry is intolerable to them. Excepting the Cherokees and some of the Choctaws, very few of the Indians
have made- much progress in the knowledge of the arts of
civilized life. But the truth is, that very few, and these
inadequate, efforts have been made in other tribes to induce
them to live a civilized life. The great and only hope of
their civilization is with the children, through intellectual
and religious education.
As to the domestic virtues and habits of the Indians, and
the happiness or misery of their condition, there have been
very different opinions. Rousseau, Chateaubriand, and
others, have described them as amiable, virtuous, and eminently happy. I have known many who have professed to
entertain the same opinion. But Volney, and Charlevoix,
among the former writers, and many of the latter, have
much more justly described their condition, as that of a race,
taken as a whole, neither amiable nor happy. Indeed I
know not how any man who has really studied the condition
of the uncivilized Indians, can possibly represent them as
in any other than a very wretched condition. Their coun»

INDIAN TRIBES, MONUMENTS, & C

93

tenances are almost always stern, and melancholy, seldom
wearing a smile. They manifestly have not the acute sensibility which civilization imparts, or rather increases.—
That they have affections is certain, but not generally of
an ardent, tender kind. Born amidst forests, and perpetual gloom ; from their childhood conversant with rocks,
woods, deserts, and the dreariness and solitude of the wilderness ; having only a precarious, and often a scanty,
subsistence ; subject to constant and deep alternations of
hope and fear ; enjoying but little the present life, and
having no certain hopes of a life to come, it is no wonder
that cheerfulness and joy should seldom be depicted in
their countenances. It is not surprising that they should
have little fear of death. They scarcely regard it in any
other light than as the end of a life void of attractions, and
even of existence, which few of them firmly believe to be
prolonged beyond the present stage of being. Their fortitude in the endurance of suffering results from a physical
insensibility, to which is added the effect of constant inculcation of it as a chief or only virtue. No ordinary stimulus can move them. But when they are excited, they have
no moderation. Their rage, their fury in battle, their
alternations of hope and despair exhibited in gaming, their
brutal exhiliration in drunkenness, are truly horrible.
It is interesting to observe how manifestly the Indians,
degraded and ignorant as they are, show the traces of the
moral law written on the hearts of all men. There are
certain virtues which they hold as being of universal obli*
gation, such as honour, constancy, generosity, forbearance,
and regard for truth. They generally admit, under some
form of modification, the being of a God, and the immortality of the soul. Many of the tribes have forms of prayer
which they use on extraordinary occasions, such as when
starting on expeditions of hunting or war. They are exceedingly superstitious, and greatly under the influence of
their prophets or " medicine men." Every thing with them
which is inexplicable is a " medicine." Their prophets
and jugglers have almost as much influence as their chiefs
and warriors. Their ideas of a future world are of course
dark and confused. Their Elysium is a great and beautiful country of prairie and forest, filled with wild beasts,
which are hunted by the happy and good, that is, those who

94

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

were brave on earth, and killed many of their enemies;
whilst the cowardly and undistinguished sink into oblivion,
not being able to pass with fearless hearts, the " narrow
bridge."
As to matrimony, it is well known that every man may
marry as many wives as he can maintain. All the evils
which naturally flow from polygamy are of course experienced. Jealousy among the wives, their quarrels and their
brawls, are frequent occurrences in the harem of an Indian
chief. Marriage is generally managed by the parents.
The vices of the Indians are such as might be expected
among an uncivilized people, who are destitute of the power
of Christianity. And it is greatly to be regretted, that
their intercourse with the whites has been, generally, any
thing else than beneficial to their morals. The most
shameless abominations are committed by men, whom the
Indians, in their ignorance, call Christians, only because
they have a white complexion, and belong to a nation
which professes to be Christian.
The more civilized Indians dress after the fashion of the
white people. This is the case with the Cherokees, some
of the Choctaws, and of the small tribes in Ohio and Indiana. Their clothes are coarse, but decent.
The Cherokees, having made considerable progress in the arts—
having farms on which they raise grain and cotton, and
possessing looms and mills, and blacksmith's shops, and
horses and cattle, &c. not only dress comfortably, but many
of them have respectable cottages and houses. But the
uncivilized tribes wear a calico jacket, and over that a
blanket or buffalo skin wrapped around them, and have
moccasins and leggings. But in summer, their youth especially, go without the last named garments. When they
can afford it, the squaws of the partially civilized tribes,
wear blue broad cloth petticoats.
Their laws have the nature of universal custom, and are
like a spell in their influence over the Indians ; so much so,
that if any Indian knows that he has committed an offence
for which he must die, (according to their custom), he seldom embraces the opportunity of escape, but will return
home to die, and dies as if there was an irresistible fatality
which prevented him from doing otherwise. This is an inexplicable circumstance, excepting upon the principle that

INDIAN TRIBES, MONUMENTS, & C

95

public opinion is every thing ; and an Indian considers that
he might as well die, as live under the conviction that he
deserves, in the opinion of all, to die. This consciousness
is intolerable. This fact, of itself, demonstrates how low
their conceptions of death are !
I think that no man who has any correct moral sentiments, or any just idea of what constitutes true human
happiness, can avoid feeling a deep sympathy for these poor
benighted ' children of the wood.' Is not their condition a
miserable one ? Are they not, in some degree, intelligent,
and of course accountable beings ? And what, can be done
to raise them from their degradation and misery? The
answer, to my mind, is plain-—that is, instruct them in the
principles of Christianity, and the arts of civilized life. Especially begin with the young. Almost all the tribes are
willing to have their children thus instructed. And our
government, as well as the Christian community, ought to
arise, and give to every tribe these great blessings. They
can be made Christians, and civilized men. They have
minds, and vigorous ones too. They are not more barbarous than our ancestors once were. The Gospel of Jesus
Christ can influence their hearts, and raise their thoughts,
and their despairing eyes, towards heaven.
I have indeed met with men, some of whom have been
among the Indians, and know something of them,—and
some who have not,—who have professed to believe that
there is no need of sending the Gospel to the Indians—that
they are happier and better off without it. With regard to
the latter class,—those who have never been among the
Indians,—they are deceived by the misrepresentations of
others, or by their own dreams of the simplicity and happiness of what they consider the " natural state of man." As
they know nothing about the matter, it is not worth while to
lose a moment in refuting their romantic and absurd ideas.
But as to the former class, viz. those who have been much
with the Indians, and who yet believe they are better offwithout civilization and Christianity, I have a word or two to say.
I have uniformly found that this class, which is composed
of men who are universally ignorant of the true nature of the
Christian religion, may be divided into three subdivisions.
1. Those who think that the fact, that the poor Indians
prefer their own state to that of civilization, is conclusive

96

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

proof that they are really in a better condition than they
would be, if civilized. These gentlemen would be opposed,
of course, to every effort to enlighten mankind in any way.
They must believe that the world is at present, excepting
a few political evils, doing about as well as can be desired.
They have no standard at all of excellence in human condition. Knowledge, and science, and the arts, and literature, and taste and refinement, and the innumerable blessings
of civilized life, are nothing at all in the estimation of these
gentlemen. And to instruct any ignorant person, who is
contented with his ignorance, is to do him an injury, to
make him less happy, although it may be the means of
elevating him in the scale of human dignity, and affording
him increasing and refined pleasures, commensurate with
his expanding faculties and enlarged desires !
2. Those who know that increased knowledge and advantages bring with them increased accountability, and
having a morbid sensibility on that subject, as it affects
their own case—being conscious that they do not live up
to the measure of their advantages—they think that ignorance is a happy state of total or comparative exemption
from responsibility. These men do not consider that increased light brings with it not only increased responsibility, but also increased ability, if we are not wanting to
ourselves, of meeting, happily, that responsibility.
3. Those who have been guilty of living in an unlawful
manner among the Indians—who have indulged in sensual
lusts, or who have defrauded them in dealing; and who,
as is commonly the case with abandoned men, try to persuade themselves that all others are as bad as themselves.
It should be no subject of marvel that such men think the
Indians are as virtuous and as happy, if not more so, than
the whites ; and verily, they are probably better than such
white men as they are ! I have no doubt that the Indians
are really more virtuous, or rather less vile and abominable in their lives, than the mass of white men who trade
with them, and who too often rejoice to find, that they are
beyond the Sabbath, and beyond the inspection and surveillance of that hundred-eyed argus,—public opinion.
Some of these men dread the instruction and Christianization of the Indians, because it would pour a flood of light
upon their dark deeds, and break up forever their unrighteous traffic.

INDIAN TRIBES, MONUMENTS, & C .

97

But I rejoice that the subject of civilizing the Indians, is
awakening the attention of the Christian public. Missionaries are labouring with much success among the Cherokees, Choctaws, and Chickasaws—and their efforts among
the Osages, Creeks, and some other tribes, are not without
encouragement: and, as the government is now about to
try the experiment of collecting several tribes on the west
of Arkansas Territory and the state of Missouri, what benevolent heart does not wish, that there may be one day, a
happy community of civilized Indians, sharing in all the
blessings of our government?
MONUMENTS.—The antiquities of the Valley of the Mississippi, may be divided into three classes. 1. Those belonging to the Indians. 2. To people of European origin.
3. Those of the unknown people, who inhabited this region
before the Indians. The antiquities of the first named
class, are neither numerous nor interesting. They are
rude axes and knives, pestles and mortars for preparing their
corn for food, arrow heads, and other similar articles. To
the antiquities of the people of European descent, belong
the medals found, occasionally—such as, one at the mouth
of Muskingum River, which was a thin round plate of lead,
bearing on one side the inscription, "Petit-belle riviere,"
and on the other, " Louis XIV." Some coins have been
found inscribed, " George I I . " and " Caroline." Some Roman coins are said to have been found in Tennessee. Traces of a. furnace of fifty kettles exist in Kentucky, a few
miles from Portsmouth.
The antiquities of a people who inhabited the Valley of
the Mississippi prior to the Indians, are very numerous.
They are to be found from the lakes to the Gulf of Mexico,
they consist of tumuli or mounds, and what are supposed to
have been forts, cemeteries, temples, altars, camps, towns,
watch-towers, &c.
In.the vicinity of Newark, Ohio, is found a fort contaiaing forty acres within its walls, which are about ten feet
high. It has gate-ways and walls in front of them for protection. Another fort contains 22 acres, and has an observatory, partly of earth, and partly of wood, in the middle of
it. There is another circular fort, containing 26 acres.
There are also parallel walls, with watch-towers. It is said
that there are more than 1000 wells, many of them exceed9

98

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ing 20 feet in depth, in the vicinity of the same town. Near
Marietta, in the same state, are to be found traces of fortifications, of a remarkable extent. On the spot where Cincinnati now stands, were four mounds, or pyramids. One of
them was 35 feet high, in the form of an ellipsis. In one
of these mounds, pieces of jasper, rock crystal, granite, &c.
were found; also, a small oval piece of sheet copper, several
marine shells, a quantity of isinglass, several copper figures
of animals, human bones, &c. &c. Many of these mounds,
all over the valley, contain an immense number of skeletons.
The largest mound is on the bottom land, along Grave Creek,
14 miles below Wheeling, in western Virginia. The most
numerous collection of mounds is to be found a few miles
east of St. Louis, on the American bottom. More than 200
of all sizes are to be counted there. Near Cahokia there
are many mounds. In some of the prairies they are to be
found. They are generally on the bottom lands of rich
alluvial soil. They are sometimes, however, to be seen on
high hills ; for instance, on the high bluffs on the north bank
of the Missouri, above Cote-sans-dessein. It is a remarkable circumstance, that these mounds are most numerous
in those portions of the valley which are best calculated to
sustain a dense population.
Millions of human beings have been buried in these tumuli. To have erected such works, so numerous and large,
must have required a great population. Mr. Atwater has
even supposed that Ohio, several hundred years ago, contained more than 700,000 inhabitants, of a race now extinct.
The antiquities of Tennessee and Kentucky are very numerous, and exceedingly interesting; but the limits of this
work will not allow me to go into details on this subject.
Some notices of these antiquities will be given when we consider each state and territory in the west.
Besides the human skeletons found in the nitre caves of
Kentucky, and other relics of by-gone generations, masses
of bones of animals of enormous sizes, to which the name of
Mammoth and Megalonyx have been given, and which have
excited great attention on the part of naturalists, have been
discovered.
In closing this chapter, I would sta^te, that in the Museums at Cincinnati, and Lambdin's Museum at Pittsburg, are

CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS.

99

to be found many very interesting specimens of the relics
of antiquity, belonging to this valley.*

CHAPTER X.
Character, Manners, and Pursuits, of the Inhabitants of the Valley of
the Mississippi.

I T cannot be expected that, in a work so limited as this
is, any thing like justice can be done to the subject of this
chapter. I shall only give a general description of the
character, manners and pursuits of the people of the West,
avoiding details as much as possible.
The population of the Valley of the Mississippi is exceedingly heterogeneous, if we regard the very great variety
of nations of which it is composed. There is not a country in Europe which has not furnished some portion of its
population. But by far the greater poportion of the European population, is from Great Britain and Ireland. Of
course, emigrants from those portions of Europe, speaking
our own language, and having so many of the elements of
character and manners homogeneous with our own, produce no influence, worthy of notice, on the lineaments of the
national character of theWest, especially after their amalgamation with us, which is effected by a short, period of residence. The emigrants from France, however, possessing
traits of character very diverse from our own, speaking a
very dissimilar language, and still more, grouped together
as they almost invariably are, produce a very great diversity in the general character and manners of the West, as
far as that sort of population prevails. But inasmuch as it
is confined almost entirely to Louisiana, and some isolated
portions of Illinois, Missouri, and Michigan, and has little
or no influence upon the other parts of this vast country, but
little notice will be taken of it, in this general description
of the character and manners of the people of the West.
* For a more full account of the antiquities of the West, the reader is
referred to the interesting communications made to the American Antiquarian Society, by Caleb Atwater, Esq. of Circleville, Ohio, and found
i n Vol. I. of their transactions; Brackenridge's View of Louisiana,
Schoolcraft's Travels, Lewis and Clarke's Expedition, Major Long's
Expeditions, & c . & c .

100

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

As it regards the emigrants from the other countries of
Europe, the smallness-of their numbers, compared with the
entire population, and their dispersion throughout the country, render their influence too inconsiderable an element to
be taken into account in a description of the national character and manner sof the West. We must look to those
causes and circumstances which exist amongst themselves,
and which have had a chief influence in moulding the character of the population of the Valley of the Mississippi,
unless indeed we mean to speak of the West, not as it is,
but as it exists in our imagination.
The great difficulty in describing the character and manners of the West, taken in the general, arises from the fact
that they do not essentially differ from those of the population of the Atlantic states. The shades of difference,—and
they are only shades,—are such as have been created by
causes and circumstances existing in the West alone. Every one who has seen much of the West, at once perceives
these shades ; but they are too attenuate and impalpable to
admit of being very distinctly pourtrayed. I shall, however, endeavour to indicate some of the traits of difference,,
after having made the remarks which I am about to make,
with regard to the mode in which the West has been peopled from the Atlantic states.
In travelling over the various states and territories of the
West, I have been struck with a fact which is somewhat remarkable. It is the manner in which that country has been
colonized. The emigration to the Valley of the Mississippi seems to have gone on in columns, moving from the East
almost due West, from the respective states from which they
originated. From New England the emigrating column advanced through New-York, peopling the middle and western
parts of that state in its progress; but still continuing, it
reached the nothern part of Ohio, then Indiana, and finally
Illinois. .A part of the same column from New-England
and New-York is diverging into Michigan. It is true also,
that straggling companies, as it were, diverge to a more
southerly direction, and scatter over the middle and southern parts of the Valley, and are to be found in every state,
in every county and town, in greater or less numbers. The
Pennsylvania and New Jersey column advanced within the
parallels of latitude of those states into West Pennsylvania,
and still continuing, advanced into the middle and southern

CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS.

101

parts of Ohio, and extends even into the middle parts of Indiana and Illinois. The Virginia column advanced first
into the western part of that state and Kentucky,—which
was long a constituent part of it,—thence into the southern
parts of Indiana and Illinois, until it has spread over almost
the whole of Missouri. The North Carolina column advanced first into East Tennessee, thence into West Tennessee, and also into Missouri. And the South Carolina
and Georgia column has moved upon the extensive and
fertile lands of Alabama, and has in some degree peopled
Mississippi. Louisiana was a foreign colony. The Amer*
ican part of it is composed of emigrants from the upper
part of the Valley, and from the southern and eastern
states. The same remark is true of the small population
of the state of Mississippi. In Arkansas the emigrating
columns of Kentucky and Tennessee predominate. As
was remarked of the New England column, it may be said
that straggling parties from all the others have wandered
from the main bodies, and have taken a more northerly or
southerly direction. A hundred considerations of business
or affinity, have operated to occasion this divergency.
The above mentioned fact furnishes a better key than any
Other that 1 know of, to furnish a correct knowledge of
the diversities of customs and manners which prevail in the
Valley of the Mississippi. For if one knows what are the
peculiarities of the several states east of the Allegheny
Mountains, he may expect to find them, with some shades
of difference, occasioned by local circumstances, in the cor-,
responding parallels in the West. Slavery keeps nearly
within the same parallels. And so does every other pecu-.
liarity. The New England column is intelligent, industrious,
economical, enterprising, moral, and fond of institutions for
the promotion of knowledge and religion. The PennsyU
vania column of Scotch, Irish, Germans, &c. partakes of all
the characteristics of those worthy nations. The southern
columns have a great degree of similarity, and are distin«
guished by high-mindedness, generosity, liberality, hospitality, indolence, and, too often, dissipation. The southern
character, however, is a noble one, when moulded by good
influences.
The peculiarities, or, to speak more properly, the devel*
opements of character, which may be said to distinguish the
9*

10*2

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

population of the West, may be readily enumerated ; and
they are all created by the peculiar circumstances in which
the people have been placed in that new world. They are,
1. A spirit of adventurous enterprise : a willingness to
go through any hardship or danger to accomplish an object.
It was the spirit of enterprise which led to the settlement of
that country. The western people think nothing of making
a long journey, of encountering fatigue, and of enduring
every species of hardship. The great highways of the West
—its long rivers—are familiar to very many of them, who
have been led by trade to visit remote parts of the Valley.
2. Independence of thought and action.-—They have felt
the influence of this principle from their childhood. Men
who can endure any thing : that have lived almost without
restraint, free as the mountain air, or as the deer and the
buffalo of their forests—and who know that they are Americans all—will act out this principle during the whole of life.
I do not mean that they have such an amount of it as to
render them really regardless alike of the opinions and the
feelings of every one else. But I have seen many who have
the virtue of independence greatly perverted or degenerated,
and who were not pleasant members of a society, which is
a state requiring a compromising spirit of mutual co-operation in all, and a determination to bear and forbear.
3. An apparent roughness, which some would deem
rudeness of manners.
These traits characterize, especially, the agricultural
portions of the country, and also in some degree the new
towns and villages. They are not so much the offspring of
ignorance and barbarism, (as some would suppose), as the
results of the circumstances of a people thrown together in
a new country, often for a long time in thin settlements ;
where, of course, acquaintances for many miles around are
soon, of necessity, made and valued from few adventitious
causes. Where there is perfect equality in a neighbourhood of people who know but little about each other's previous history or ancestry—but where each is lord of the
soil which he cultivates. Where a log cabin is all that the
best of families can expect to have for years, and of course
can possess few of the external decorations which have so
much influence in creating a diversity of rank in society.
These circumstances, have laid the foundation for that

CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS.

103

equality of intercourse, simplicity of manners, want of deference, want of reserve, great readiness to make acquaintances, freedom of speech, indisposition to brook real or
imaginary insults, which one witnesses among the people
of the West.
The character and manners of the traders and merchants
who inhabit the principal cities and towns of the West, do
not differ greatly from those of the same class in the
Atlantic states.
A voyage on board of a large and crowded steam-boat
from Pittsburg to New Orleans, or from that city to Cin*
cinnati or St. Louis, or Nashville, would exhibit to an eastern traveller the concentrated traits of character and
manners which distinguish the western people, save that a
considerable abatement should be made for the exciting
circumstances, which occasion an unnatural prominence of
peculiarities.
There are, besides the French population,—which is distinguished for its quiet, inoffensive, domestic, sober, industrious, frugal, unenterprising spirit and manners,—five or
six classes of people in the Valley of the Mississippi. 1. The
agricultural portion. 2. The merchants and traders. 3 .
The manufacturers. 4. The river men, who follow the
rivers as a business, on board the common boats (flat bottomed, keel, barges, &c.) or steam-boats, as common hands
or labourers, pilots, engineers, &c. This is a numerous and
very peculiar class of men. 5. The hunters who live on
the verge of the frontier, and in their westward movement
are constantly treading on the heels of the savages. They
dwell on the public lands, and are a race of men possessing
remarkable traits of character and manners, which are a
compound of civilization and barbarism. They are truly
sui generis, in every respect. Their language is a very
peculiar dialect, employing many words and phrases in a
sense which is utterly unknown to any body else. 6. The
gaming adventurers, black legs, &c. who infest the steamboats and chief places from Pittsburg to New Orleans, who
live upon the ruin of the unwary, the ignorant, and the young.
The population of the Valley of the. Mississippi, taken as
a whole is a highly interesting one. It is in a state of
rapid formation as to the elements of character. Good and
bad influences are active and potent. It is indeed a critical

104

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

period. Every thing should be done that can be done to
disseminate the seeds of knowledge and virtue and true
religion. These are interests, however, to which Christians and patriots, both in the East and in the West, are
far from being indifferent. Let light prevail; let the means
of adequate literary and moral education be diffused through
every portion of that vast region ; let true religion exert its
plastic influence to mould the hearts of men into the habits
of goodness ; let good sentiments be kept every where uppermost, and our country is safe, and love, and kindness,
and happiness will prevail along every river, and throughout
every valley of that vast country.
I have travelled extensively in every state and territory
in our country, excepting two, and I am free to say, that I
have travelled in the Valley of the Mississippi with quite
as much pleasure as in the Atlantic states. In all my extended journeys through that country, I have never known
an instance of a man being treated in an uncivil manner
whose deportment was gentlemanly. Everywhere T have
found sincerity, kindness, true deference, and real hospitality, although associated oftentimes with great plainness
and roughness of manners.
The West does not enjoy the same advantages, as it regards education, and in many places, of constant religious
instruction, which the East generally does. There is, as
might be expected, a far greater number of persons who
are uneducated, and of persons who have but little taste for
reading, than is to be found in the Atlantic states. These
evils are felt and lamented, and I hope will be remedied.
^Measures are now pursuing which are calculated to accomplish this desirable object.
The people of the West live amidst the elements of
greatness. The lofty mountains on each side of the valley,
the extensive inland season the north, the immense forests
and prairies, and mighty rivers, with which they are so
familiar, are calculated to have an elevating effect upon the
human mind. Nature, every where appearing upon a grand
scale, must have some influence in prompting to noble conceptions, and in impressing its own image of greatness on
the western character. But these external influences are
impotent of themselves, except to excite the imagination and
to supply striking and appropriate similies, metaphors, and

CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS.

105

create the language of wonder. The advantages of culture, not merely of instruction, but also of education, in the
proper sense of the word, must co-operate with the grandeur of nature, to produce true greatness in man.
I have not mentioned the fact of the existence of a multitude of singular and uncouth phrases and words, as characteristic of the West, for I have deemed them utterly
unworthy of notice. I have heard some scores of them in
my tours, but such of them as are not the coinage of rude
boatmen, or of still more ignorant hunters, are of eastern
origin, and claim no pretensions to regard in this work.
Every country has its low, vulgar expressions, and its
proverbial language, which it would be a useless labour to
collect, and still more unjust to consider, as any data for
estimating national character and manners.
PURSUITS OF THE PEOPLE.—On this topic I shall say
but little*
In the northern half of the Valley, the vast majority of
the people are engaged in agriculture. The productions
are wheat, corn, rye, oats, potatoes, apples, &c. &c.
Great quantities of salted beef and pork, and of live stock,
as sheep, hogs, cattle and horses, are sent to distant markets, either across the mountains to the east, or down the
rivers to New Orleans, and intermediate cities. In the
lower half of the valley, cotton, corn, tobacco, hemp, sugar,
rice, & c are staples within the respective parallels of
their growth, and are products chiefly of slave labour.
Western Pennsylvania and Virginia, Kentucky, the south
part of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Missouri, send vast quantities of flour, corn, and corn-meal, pork, bacon, salted beef,
apples, cider, dried apples and peaches, &c. to New Orleans
and intermediate places. From the north part of Ohio,
and from Michigan, and the north-western angle of Pennsylvania, are sent vast quantities of the same agricultural
products to New York, by the lakes and the New York
canal; and from the same regions are driven great quantities of live stock to the East. Whilst from Tennessee and
Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama, Louisiana and West-Florida, are exported, this year, (1833,) by way of New Orleans
and Mobile, probably more than 500,000 bales of cotton,
40,000 hogsheads of tobacco, 100,000 hogsheads of sugar,

106

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

and 5,000,000 gallons of molasses. Also from the same
region, corn, rice, tropical fruits &c. &c. to an amount of
which I am ignorant, are sent to New Orleans, Mobile,
and other but smaller sea-ports; whilst from the same states
great numbers of cattle, hogs, and horses are annually driven to eastern and southern cities. From the upper Mississippi and Missouri, vast quantities of furs, skins, buffalo
tongues, &c. &c. are sent by way of St. Louis or Mackinaw
to the East and South, by the American Fur Company.
In West Pennsylvania are extensive manufactories of
iron, salt, whiskey, &c. The manufacture of iron and
machinery, and the building of steam boats, are carried on
to a great extent at Pittsburg, Brownsville, and some other
places in West Pennsylvania, and at Cincinnati. Steam
boats are built at many other places on the Ohio from New
Albany to Pittsburg. They are beginning to be built at
St. Louis and Alton, on the Mississippi, and a few have
been built at Nashville. Salt and iron are manufactured in
West Virginia ; cotton bagging, bale ropes, and cordage.,
are manufactured in Tennessee and Kentucky. Various
manufactures are springing up in Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, which will be more fully enumerated when I come to
treat of those states in detail. It is found difficult to introduce those manufacturing processes which demand great
skill into states where the labour is done almost wholly by
slaves. For the present ignorance of the slave population
is utterly incompatible with great skilfulness in the manufucturing arts and processes. And free labour, (that is, of
the whites) is difficult to obtain, except at enormous
prices, in slave holding states. These difficulties will be
remedied at some future period.
The number of merchants, and of traders, (who are often
a distinct class from the regular merchants,) is very great
in the Valley of the Mississippi. As there is scarcely a
spot in all the West which is 50 miles from some navigable stream, (that is, navigable during some portion of the
year,) it will be at once perceived that the number of traders will be immense. Thousands of the producers are
partial traders, and deport, in their own boats, the produce
of their farms, to a distant market—a circumstance whicb
must have a great bearing on the character and manners
of the population of the Valley of the Mississippi.

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

107

CHAPTER XI.
Western Pennsylvania.

HAVING completed the general description of the Valley
of the Mississippi, I now proceed to give some notices of
its several political subdivisions. In doing this, I shall
commence with the upper part, and advancing southward
in the order in which that great valley is commonly visited by travellers and emigrants from those eastern states
which lie north of the Potomac, 1 shall describe the states
and territories, successively, until I arrive at Florida. By
pursuing this plan, I shall not only have it in my power to
give an account of the several states and territories in
order, but also to present the reader with a sketch, from
point to point, of the principal tours which 1 have made in
that vast region, and which, having been performed along
the great rivers and most important roads, will, I trust, be
interesting. Without further preamble, I shall begin with
Western Pennsylvania, taking my first stand at the city of
Pittsburg, which place I have often visited, crossing the Alleghenies by various roads, and by various modes of travelling.
WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA is bounded on the north by

Lake Erie and New York ; east by the dividing line or
ridge which separates the waters which flow eastward into
the Susquehanna and Potomac from those which flow
westward into the Ohio; south by Maryland and Virginia;
and west by Virginia and Ohio. The southern boundary
is on lat. 39° 4 3 ' ; the northern is on lat. 42°, saving a
small projection which extends down to lake Erie ; and the
western is on 3° 36' W. Ion. from Washington. Its area is
about 15,833 square miles, or one third part of the state.
The following is a list of the counties in Western Pennsylvania, together with their respective population according to the census of 1830 :—
% * The small Italic letters annexed to the counties indicate their situation in the state : as, e, w, n, s, n e, n m,
e m, tec—east, west, north, south, north-east, north of middie, east of middle, &c. The seats of government of the
different states are printed in small capitals.

108

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Counties.

County Towns.

Washington, s w,
Washington,
Greene, 5 w,
Waynesburg,
Fayette, s w,
Uniontown,
Westmoreland, s w9 Greensburg,
Allegheny, w,
Pittsburg,
Beaver, w,
Beaver,
Butler, w,
Butler,
Armstrong, w,
Kittanning, .
Mercer, w,
Mercer,
Venango, w,
Franklin,
Crawford, nw,
Meadville, .
Erie, n w,
Erie, .
Warren, n w,
Warren,
McKean, n,
* Smithport, .
Jefferson, w m,
Port Barnet,
Indiana, w m,
Indiana,
Somerset, s,
Somerset,
Total of Populal ion,

.

Population
in 1830.

42,784
18,028
29,172
38,400
50,552
24,123
14,531
17,701
19,729
9,470
16,030
17,041
4,697
1,439
2,025
14,252
17,762
337,846

About one half of Cambria county is in the Valley of the
Mississippi, being drained by some of the confluents of the
Conemough, which flows into the Allegheny river.
Government of Pennsylvania.—Governor-—term of office
three years, salary $4,000; Secretary of State ; Treasurer ;
Auditor General; Surveyor General * and Atorney Gene,
ral.
Senate, consists of thirty-three members, elected for
four years. House of Representatives, one hundred members, elected annually.
Judiciary.—There
is a Supreme court, consisting of a
Chief Justice and four Associate Judges. This court holds
its courts in five places in the state, which is divided into
five districts for that purpose.
The state is also divided into 16 districts, for the sessions of the Courts of Common Pleas. Each of these Circuits has a presiding Judge, and two Associates from each
county. The Judges of the Supreme Court receive a
salary of $2,000 per annum ; the Judges of the Common
Pleas, $1600 ; and the Associates, $200.

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WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

109

Harrisburg is the capital of the state.
Pittsburgh is the seat of the sessions of the Supreme
Court, and also of the United States District Court, for
Western Pennsylvania, and may be considered the capital
of this part of the state.
Surface of the Country,—As a general remark it may
be said, that West Pennsylvania is broken and hilly.
Somerset, parts of Fayette, Westmoreland, Cambria,
Indiana, Jefferson, and McKean, are mountainous; whose
vallies are from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above the ocean level,
and their ridges from 500 to 1,000 feet higher. Washington, part of Fayette, Westmoreland, and Allegheny counties are remarkable for their lofty, insulated, and fertile hills, with narrow and exuberant bottom lands intervening. The appearance of this country, variegated by
elevated hills which are seldom in the shape of ridges, but
rather disconnected and conical, with innumerable vales,
is exceedingly picturesque when viewed from some elevated
part of the most western range of the Alleghenies. The
counties which lie northward of Pittsburg, although broken, are not generally covered with such high hills as
those which I have just mentioned. They have also much
more level bottom lands along the water courses. On
French Creek, and many other of the confluents of the
Allegheny River, there are extensive bottoms, covered
with beech, birch, sugar-maple, intermixed with the Weymouth pine and the hemlock spruce. It is from these
extensive forests, and those on the sources of that river,
that the vast quantities of lumber sent to the country below,
as far as New Orleans, are annually drawn.
Soil and Productions,—The soil of the southern counties
is generally good, excepting Somerset county, and some
portions of Greene, which are called glade lands. Corn,
wheat, rye, barley, oats, flax, the potatoe, &c. grow well
in every county. Few portions of the West have a soil
better adapted to these productions than Washington, Fayette, Westmoreland, Allegheny, and parts of the other
counties. The counties which lie towards Lake Erie and
New York have a thinner and colder soil than those towards
Virginia. They are well adapted to the purpose of grazing. They abound in herds of cattle and other live stock ;
and, as has already been remarked, they furnish vast sup10

210

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

plies of lumber,—of which it is supposed that no less than
30,000,000 feet of plank annually descend the Allegheny
river, and find a ready market in the towns and cities
which border on the river from Pittsburg to New Orleans.
In a state of nature, this country was covered with continuous forests of oak, walnut, hickory, sugar-maple, poplar, beech, elm, sycamore, and buck-eye along the streams,
chesnut, &c. &c. This region is watered by the Monongahela, Allegheny, Youghioghany, Loyalhanna, Conemaugh, French Creek, and Beaver, and their common
recipient the Ohio. By inspection of the map it will be
seen, that all these confluents converge tow?ards one district, the centre of which is Pittsburg. To this emporium
the productions of this whole region are chiefly brought to
market by the natural channels of these confluents, which
are navigable for boats much of the year, excepting the
north-western section, which trades with New York, by
Lake Erie and the Erie and Hudson canal.
This is emphatically an agricultural country ; but large
quantities of live stock are driven annually to an eastern
market, by way of the three excellent turnpike roads which
connect, in this State, the West with the East, viz : the
national road which passes from Wheeling to Cumberland,
through the southern part of this region ; the southern
Pennsylvania road; and the northern road from Pittsburg,
through Ebensburg, Huntingdon, &c. to Philadelphia,
uniting with the Southern Pennsylvania road at Harrisburg.
One of the productions of this part of the state is, to the
joy of all good men, greatly and rapidly on the decline. I
mean tvhiskey. A section of this country has obtained an
inglorious celebrity for the quantity and quality of this liquid fire which it produces. There is scarcely a whiskeybibber in the land, from Lake Erie to the Gulf of Mexico,
who has not vociferously praised the Old Monongahela.
But I rejoice to believe that this infamy will soon be done
away. A large proportion of the distilleries in this part of
our country, have ceased within two years, and the temperance cause is advancing rapidly. It is believed that
there is not one half the quantity of whiskey now manufactured here that was made two years ago. In Washington county, more than two-thirds of the distilleries have
been abandoned. In 1791-4 an insurrection occurred in
Western Pennsylvania, because of the excise or tax on the

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

Ill

manufacture of whiskey. Happily the difficulty was settled, and the liberty poles thrown down, without bloodshed. It is gratifying to believe that no such uproar
would now be made by the enlightened citizens of Western
Pennsylvania, who seem to feel a noble determination not
to be behind any of the friends of temperance in other
parts of our country, in their efforts to expel the evils of
drunkenness from the land.
During the months o{ October, November, December,
March, April, May, and June, the Ohio is navigable for
steam-boats up to Pittsburg, and its confluents, for flat and
keel boats, which convey the productions of this region to
a market in the southern part of the Valley. During January and February the navigation is usually interrupted
by the ice, and in July, August, and September, by the
want of sufficient depth of water in those streams. Steamboats, during the fall and spring high waters, run up to
Brownsville, on the Monongahela. The other rivers in
Western Pennsylvania, are not yet navigated by steamboats to any considerable extent.
Inexhaustible quantities of bituminous coal, exist throughout this section of our country, in the vallies and in the
hills, in strata varying, in different places, from a few inches
to several feet in depth, and afford abundance of fuel,
cheaper even than the wood which its forests supply, and
admirably suitable for manufacturing purposes. There is
a great abundance of iron ore, particularly in the tier of
counties which border the Allegheny range, from which
vast quantities of iron are manufactured. In the counties
of Westmoreland and Fayette, are many furnaces and
forges. Much of the iron of those counties is taken in the
form of blooms and pigs to Pittsburg, Brownsville, &c.
and there manufactured into various forms of iron. On
the Conemaugh and Kiskiminitas, salt is manufactured to
a great extent. It is also made in some other places, but
in comparatively small quantities.
The natural advantages of this region, the general productiveness of its soil—for there is scarcely any part which
cannot be cultivated with advantage, even the knobs of its
hills—its facilities for intercourse, natural and artificial;
and the salubrity of its climate, will render it a very populous country. When the Pennsylvania canal shall be
completed, and it is now finished from Pittsburg up to the

112

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Allegheny mountains at Johnstown, and almost completed
in its eastern section to the same mountain ; when the
canal uniting the Allegheny river with Lake Erie ; and
when the Ohio and Chesapeake canal, now in progress,
and also the Baltimore and Ohio rail road expected to extend into this region, and already commenced, shall all be
completed, no country will enjoy greater facilities for intercommunication and trade. The farmer and manufacturer
of Western Pennsylvania will then have New Orleans,
New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, with the places
intermediate, as the markets to which he can send the
products of his labour.
There was no part of the west settled by Anglo-American colonists before Western Pennsylvania. Several years
before the American Revolution, settlements were made in
the neighbourhood of Pittsburg, and on the Monongahela,
in what was then called " Redstone Settlement." The
horrors and dangers of Indian wars were long known to
its earlier inhabitants.
Chief Towns.-—Washington, the seat of Justice for
Washington county, is 25 miles south-west of Pittsburg;
it is nearly midway between Brownsville and Wheeling,
on the national road from Cumberland to Columbus in Ohio.
It is in the centre of a beautiful and fertile country.
Canonsburg, is a small town, 18 miles south-west of Pittsburg, on the turnpike road from that city to Washington
and Wheeling. It is chiefly distinguished for its being
the seat of Jefferson College. Brownsville, is on the eastern bank of the Monongahela River, 45 miles, by the river,
south of Pittsburg. It is a place of much business. Uniontown is on the national road, and is beautifully situated
near the western base of the Laurel Hill or Ridge. Erie
is an important post on Lake Erie, about 120 miles north
of Pittsburg. It has considerable trade with Buffalo, &c.
Also Greensburg, Beaver, Meadville, are growing and important towns. Several of them are the seats of justice
for the counties in which they stand. Along the Monongahela there are several places, such as Elizabethtown,
Williamsport, Bridgeport, (which is separated from
Brownsville by Dunlap's creek) where steam-boats, are
built every year. Steam-boats are also built at Beaver
and in its vicinity and at Shause's town, a small village
on the left bank of the Ohio, 13 miles below Pittsburg.

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

113

The steam-boats which are built at these places after being
launched, are commonly taken to Pittsburg to be finished,
and receive their engines.
There is a vast number of villages and towns in Western Pennsylvania, and many of them beautiful, and containing an intelligent and pleasant society, but which the
limits of this work will not allow me even to name,
The most important town, or rather city, for it is incorporated as such, is Pittsburg,—which has been rightly
called the " Birmingham of the West."
Pittsburg is situated in 40 deg. 27 min. of north latitude,
and 3° 02' west Ion. from Washington ; 300 miles west of
Philadelphia, 120 south of Lake Erie, 1,100 by land, and
2,029 by water, above New Orleans. It stands at the
junction of the Monongahela and Allegheny rivers. The
Monongahela here runs nearly a due north-west course;
the Allegheny flows into it from the north-east; and, both
combining their streams, form the beautiful Ohio, which
flows away in a north-western direction. The city stands
upon a level alluvial bottom of quite a limited extent , for
*
immediately back of it, and at a distance of less than a mile
from the Point, rises Grant's Hill, with Ayres' Hill on the
west, and Quarry Hill on the east, which may be called the
great secondary bank, and which spread out so as to leave
along the Allegheny River a strip of land of about one-third
of a mile in. width, of great fertility : and along the Monongahela, a still narrower margin of alluvial bottom.
This city was founded in the year 1765 : a fort had been
built five years before, by Gen. Stanwix. This fort stood
near the point of junction of the rivers. It cost 60,000
pounds sterling. The stone magazine still remains entire.
The fort was called Fort Pitt, in honour of the celebrated
Earl of Chatham, under whose auspices as Premier, almost
the whole of the Valley of the Mississippi was wrested
from the French in the war of 1754—1763. Whilst this
place was in the possession of the French, it was a most
important post of trade. Here, surrounded by savage
tribes, the trader found a ready market for his articles of
traffic.
A small fort, erected here by the French, was
called Fort Du Quesne. It was in attempting the capture
of this fortress that Braddock was defeated, on the eastern
bank of the Monongahela, at the distance of about nine
10*

114

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

miles above Pittsburg. And afterwards, Grant, with his
800 Caledonians, met with a similar disaster upon the hill
which has ever since served as a monument, commemorative of his name and his defeat.
The city of Pittsburg stands on the Delta above described, having a triangular form.
It is rapidly extending
along the alluvial margins of the Monongahela and Allegheny rivers, by the sides of the hills above mentioned—and is
even encroaching upon them. Houses are building on their
sides and summits. On the western side of the Monongahela, and about a mile above Pittsburg, lies the flourishing
town of Birmingham, and immediately opposite to the city,
along the west bank of the same river, and under the high
and jutting hill called Coal Hill, is a street of manufacturing
establishments, which may be considered as an extension
of Birmingham, and is connected with Pittsburg by a
bridge, built in 1818, at an expense of $110,000. In the
opposite direction, and north of the Allegheny river, stands
Allegheny Town, on a beautiful alluvial plain of great extent, connected with Pittsburg by a bridge, erected in
1819, at an expense of $100,000.
Pittsburg is admirably situated for trade and manufactures. It may be said to stand at the head of steam-boat
navigation ; for the Allegheny and Monongahela can only
be ascended in times of high water. It is the mart of portions
of Western Virginia and New-York, as well as Western
Pennsylvania; while the Ohio opens to the enterprise of
its citizens the whole of the Mississippi Valley. The exhaustless banks of coal which exist in the neighbouring hills,
and the excellent mines of iron ore which are found in
great abundance in the counties along the mountains, and
in the banks of the Ohio below, give to this city its preeminence over all other western cities, for manufacturing
purposes.
In 1810, the population of Pittsburg was about 5,000 ;
in 1820 it was 7,248 ; and at present, including its suburbs,
it is near 30,000. During a part of the period from 1817
to 1824, this city suffered.much from the general stagnation
of business, and the extensive bankruptcy which prevailed.
During the last 8 or 9 years its prosperity has been wonderful, and bids fair to continue.
There are in Pittsburg, one Baptist church; five Pres-

Fage JOJ.

A Baptist Church
B Ftoman Catholic Church
C Covenanters' Churd/v
D Secede*?' Church
E Methodist Church
F German Qwrclv
G Union Church
H .Episcopal Churdv
I Fust Fresbyteiians Ch.
J Seconds Do.
K Unitarian Church
L Methodist Gturch
M Afiican Churclv
;N WesternUniversity ofmF.A
O FiasMMonitorial
S.Scit.
P
FittsburyhFxcIiange/
Q Mansion Souse/
R Fittsburgh Motel
S Zambdins Museums
T United States Sank
IT Fittsburylis Fanh
V Court Souses
WMarket
X Fort Suauesnes
Y /Ivtf ./&£
f FoundrieSrMiZls &c.

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA*

115

byterian; four Methodist; one Episcopal; one Roman
Catholic, (besides which there is a Cathedral of great
dimensions building on Grant's Hill); one Covenanter's ;
one Seceders'; one German Reformed ; one Unitarian , one
*
Associate Reformed; one Lutheran, and one African: total
19. This statement includes the suburbs of the city.
Besides the Banks, Hotels, Churches, Bridges, Manufacturing Establishments, &c. the principal objects worthy of
the attention of a stranger are, 1. The Western University
of Pennsylvania, whose buildings are nearly completed.
They stand near Grant's Hill, on the Monongahela side of
the city. 2. The State Prison in Allegheny Town, which
has cost the state a vast amount of money, and is established somewhat upon the plan of the new Prison in Philadelphia. 3. The Theological Seminary, located also in
Allegheny Town. The edifice of this important and rising
institution has been recently completed. It stands on a
beautiful, insulated hill, or knoll—rather of the form of a
ridge than of a sugar-[oaf-—about 100 feet higher than the
waters of the Allegheny riVer. >'?t is literally quite a task
to ascend this hill of science''and religion. The centre
building is fourst^es^higTi/^d^tHe^wings are three stories. The whole is 150 feet long", arid contains 70 or SO
rooms for students. There are also rooms for the library,
(which, by donations from Scotland, and from individuals
in this country, is already quite respectable,) a chapel,
halls for recitation, rooms for a steward, &c. The prospect from this eminence is truly delightful. One getsabove the smoke of this smoky city, and breathes the pure
atmosphere, and looks abroad over the city with its immense manufacturing establishments, and the noble rivers
below, over whose waves boats of every description are
constantly moving, propelled by oars, sails, or steam.
4. The Museum, established by Mr. Lambdin, whose efforts
are worthy of the highest praise. 1 know not, in all this
wonderful city, an object more worthy of a stranger's attention, than this Museum. It contains many fine specimens of the relics of aboriginal times and arts. 5. The
United States Arsenal, about two miles above the city, on
the south side of the Allegheny River, at a village called
Lawrenceville. This is a large depot of arms, ordnance,
&c. It encloses about four acres. 6. The City Water
Works, erected in 1828,—a noble and valuable monument

116

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

of liberality and enterprise. The water is elevated 116 feet,
from the Allegheny River, by a pipe of 15 inches in diameter, and 2,439 feet in length, to a basin or reservoir, on
Grant's Hill, 11 feet deep, and calculated to contain
1,000,000 of gallons. The water is raised by a steam
engine of 84 horse power, which will elevate 1,500,000
gallons in 24 hours. I might mention also the beautiful
aqueduct of the Pennsylvania canal, across the Allegheny
River, a short distance above the bridge.
The great quantities of coal in all the hills around, and
of iron manufactured in this entire region—particularly
along the mountains,—combined with the fine situation of
this city for commercial enterprise, have made it a vast
assemblage of manufacturing establishments, which are day
and night rolling up immense volumes of smoke, darkening the very heavens, and discoloring every object—even
the houses and the inhabitants. There are here ten Foundries, for various castings, including steam engines and
ploughs. M'Clurg and Company's was erected in the year
1803, for the sum of $77,000, and has cast many cannon,
balls, &c. for the government. There are six Glass Works.
The excellence of the manufactures of this city in glass are
well known. There are eight Rolling Mills, consuming
3,190 bushels of coal daily, and driven by ten steam engines,
of from 60 to 100 horse power each. There are Jive Cotton Factories, propelled by steam, and having many thousands of spindles. There are seven shops for making and
repairing steam engines and machinery. There are two
Steam Flour Mills. I cannot specify the copper, tin, nail,
and earthenware Factories—nor those for the manufacturing of knives, files, and other articles of cutlery. Nor the
Saw Mills, Dye Wood Cutting Mills, Brass and Bell
Foundries, &c. which employ 24 steam engines. The number of yards for the building of flat, keel, and steam-boats
I do not know exactly. This is one of the greatest places in
the West, and in the world, for the building of steam-boats.
The preceding paragraph gives a brief statement of the
Manufactories of Pittsburg alone. The following statement, obtained from a perfectly authentic source, embraces
the manufactories of Pittsburg and its vicinity—and, in
some cases, of Allegheny and Westmoreland counties. 1
give it in detail, as it was furnished to me, that the reader

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

117

may have some idea of the extent of the manufactures of
this growing city, and of the region in the vicinity.
1. There are the following N A I L FACTORIES AND ROLL-

ING MILLS, in Pittsburg and its vicinity. The weight of
metal manufactured in 1831 by each, together with the
value of the manufactures is given :
Weight in lbs.

Union, - Sligo, . Pittsburg, •
Grant's Hill,
Juniata,
Pine Creek,
Miscellaneous Factories,

720,000
400,000
782,887
500,000
500,000
457,000
360,000

Value.

.
•
•
•

$43,200
32,000
80,544
30,000
40,000
34,100
28,800

2. Foundries.—There are 12 Foundries in and near
Pittsburg. During the year 1831,2,963 tons of metal were
converted into castings, 132 hands employed, 87,000 bushels of coal consumed, and the value of the manufactures was
$189,614. Exclusive of Pittsburg and its vicinity, there
are 5 Foundries in Allegheny and Westmoreland counties.
3. In and near Pittsburg, there are 37 Steam Engines*
valued at $180,400, which employ 123 hands.
4. There are 8 Cotton Factories, with 369 looms, 598
hands, and worth $300,134. In the counties of Westmoreland and Allegheny, there are 5 Cotton Factories.
5. In Pittsburg, and the two counties above named, there
are 8 Paper Mills, valued at $165,000.
6. There are in Pittsburg and its vicinity, 5 Steam Mills*
which employ 50 hands. Value of their products, annually,
$80,000.
7. There are 5 Brass Foundries and 8 Coppersmiths*
Shops.
Value of manufactures, $25,000.
8. Within the limits of the cit}^, there are 30 Blacksmith's shops, which employ 136 hands. There are also 4
Gunsmiths, and 9 Silversmiths and Watch repairers.
9. In Pittsburg, and the counties of Westmoreland and
Allegheny, there are 26 Saddleries and 41 Tanneries.
There are also 64 Brick Yards, and 11 Potteries.
10. There are 4 White Lead Factories in the city, and
7,400 kegs made annually—value3 $27 ? 900. There are
also 4 Breweries,

118

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

11. There are 6 Printing Offices in Pittsburg, and 6
more in the two counties.
The estimated value of the manufactures of every kind in
Pittsburg, and the counties of Allegheny and Westmoreland, in 1831, was $3,978,469 !
In Allegheny and Westmoreland Counties, the number of
Distilleries was, in March 1832, sixty-two ; in 1830, it was
one hundred and sixty-eight!
There are, it is believed, not less than eight thousand
wagons arriving at this city every year from Philadelphia,
loaded with merchandise for the west. Whilst the quantity
of flour, whiskey, lumber, salt, &c. which is brought to this
place by the roads, the canal, and the rivers, for exportation
to the lower parts of the valley, is immense. I have no
data for estimating accurately the worth of the merchandise
which is at present brought annually from the East. In
1818, it was estimated at 89,425 tons, and valued at
$17,885,000 ! At present it cannot be less than 20 million
dollars. Much of the heavier kinds of merchandize, is now
brought up from New-Orleans by steam-boats.
The coal which abounds here is found in strata of from 6
inches to 10, or more, feet in depth. And what is remarkable, it is found in the hills which overlook Pittsburg at
the height of about 300 feet above the bottom of the rivers.
Below this one stratum, which is of about equal elevation,
no other is found until you descend into the base of the hills
below the bottom of the rivers. It is not the fact that the
great mass of these hills is coal. But a small portion of
them is of this species of substance. Coal Hill, immediately
opposite the city on the west side of the Monongahela,
is a great source of this kind of fuel. The miners have penetrated a great distance, and the coal slides down the
hill into boats, or is deposited for the wagons, by a kind of
rail-road, or inclined plane, to the alarm of many a passerby. The perforations made in digging the coal, reach, in
some places, very far into the hill. It is worthy of a stranger's attention to explore the interior of these gloomy regions, survey the dark caverns and the pillars which sustain
the superimposed mass of mountain, and contemplate the
leaden colored faces of the miners, as they meet his eye
when the torch's gleam falls upon them. But let him not
expect to escape without atoning for his temerity in enter-

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

119

sng these abodes of Pluto, or rather Plutus, by paying a
suitable reward either in money, or, as is too commonly the
case, in whiskey.
To a stranger nothing is more imposing than to stand on
the bank of the Monongahela above the Point, and survey
the steam-boats as they depart on their long voyages down
the Ohio, or when they arrive upon their return. There is
something grand in seeing the large boats, of a beautiful
form, and great power, marching up heavily loaded, overcoming the resistance of the current, and discharging at
intervals their steam, which occasions a very loud and startling roar, re-echoed in quick succession from the hills which
environ the city. Nothing is more striking to one who
witnesses the scene for the first time. When the rivers
are navigable, say during 7 or 8 months in the autumn and
spring, nothing is more common than for several boats to
arrive and depart daily, occasioning much activity in the
trade of the city. Thousands of travellers here embark
for the farther " West."
There is much moral power in this city—much wealth
and intelligence—many men of talents in the learned professions of law, medicine, and divinity, some of whom are
extensively known in our conntry.
In Pennsylvania there is no system of common schools
established by the authorities of the state. Education has
therefore depended upon the voluntary efforts of the people.
Schools have generally been maintained by the inhabitants
of each neighborhood during some portion of the year.
There are, however, many neighbourhoods where, owing
to the sparseness of the population, or their poverty, or
their want of interest in the subject, schools have been very
inadequately supported. And, in many places, the teachers
are incompetent for want of knowledge, or grossly deficient
in moral character. A change for the better is, however,
going forward. In this city, and-in most of the large
towns and larger villages, and in many of the most populous neighborhoods, very respectable schools are maintained. Academies are also established in all the larger towns,
and the higher branches of learning taught in many of
them. I would remark in this place, that there is a great
demand in West Pennsylvania, for good school teachers:
they would find certain and profitable employment.

120

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

As I intend to give a full account of the Colleges, and
other literary institutions of the Valley of the Mississippi,
in a separate chapter, I shall not here speak of the Colleges,
&c. of Western Pennsylvania, but only refer the reader to
that chapter. For the same reason, I shall say nothing here
respecting the Religious Denominations, but reserve what
I have to say on that subject for a distinct chapter.
I shall now close this description of Western Pennsylvania, with a few general remarks1. This portion of our country has occupied a considerable place in the annals of our nation. Seventy-five years ago,
it was the abode of numerous tribes of Indians. The
French claimed much of this region, and had several fortified posts in it, and, with their Indian allies, carried terror
and death into the adjoining English settlements in the
east. The principal of these fortifications was Fort Du
Quesne, which was subsequently called Pittsburg. Many
indeed were the brave and enterprising settlers who
fell amid a long continued, and vindictive, but successful
war, during which savage cruelty, and civilized inhumanity and stratagem, bedewed these hills and vallies with blood,
and caused the voice of lamentation, uttered by sorrowing
widows and fatherless children, to be heard in many a distant neighborhood. It was here that our beloved Washington learned the arts of war in successful and unsuccessful campaigns against the Indians and their Canadian
allies. In 1753, he was sent by the lieutenant Governor of
Virginia, to warn the French to leave this region of country, which, as well as what is now Ohio, Indiana, &c. they
had commenced occupying. In 1754, he was again sent
with the title and command of a Major, to dislodge the
French and Indians from the post which they had commenced fortifying at the junction of the Monongahela and
Allegheny. At a place called the " Little Meadows," (ten
miles east of Uniontown,) in the immediate vicinity of
which, the National road from Cumberland to Wheeling
now passes, he was attacked by a numerous body of French
and Indians. Having but one regiment, and protected onJy
by a small stockade, he was compelled to surrender;
which he did on honourable terms.
In 1755, Col. Washington again marched out to this region, as an aid-de-camp to Gen. Braddock. The disastrous

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

121

issue of this expedition is too well known to be repeated
here. On the east bank of the Monongahela, where an
excellent female seminary now stands, the British and
American forces met with a terrible defeat. Braddock,
mortally wounded in the battle, soon afterwards died ; and
in the retreat, the remnant of the army was commanded by
Washington until its arrival at Dunbar's camp in the neighbourhood of the Little Meadows. About half a mile westward of the latter place, by the road-side, Braddock was
buried. His bones, many years afterwards, were taken to
England.
In 1758, the British General Forbes, marched against
Fort Du Quesne. Col. Grant, who commanded the advance, with 800 Scotchmen, was defeated on the hill which
bears his name. But in November of that year, this fortification surrendered. This event gave security to the emigrants, who now began to settle in this region. In 1759,
Quebec was captured. And in 1763, this war was ended
by the treaty of Paris.*
2. In 1790, Congress passed a law imposing excise duties
upon spirits distilled in the United States. This law was
violently opposed in many parts of the country, especially in
the western part of Pennsylvania. During the period of
1790-94, many meetings were held by the malecontents at
Pittsburg, Brownsville, Parkinson's Ferry (now Williamsport,) on the Monongahela, Braddock's Field, and other
places, where violent measures were adopted to defeat the
law, and prevent the government officers from doing their
duty. Many outrages were committed. The whole country became a scene of disorder. The Marshal of the United States for this District, was openly resisted, and escaped
for his life, down the Ohio, after the burning of General
Neville's house, which was done by the insurgents, because
the Marshal was harboured there. It is impossible for any
one, who did not live on the spot, rightly to conceive of the
deplorable state of things. Matters waxed worse and
worse. Neighbourhoods were torn to pieces by dissensions ; houses and other property began to be burned by the
rebels; and there was at length but little security for life,
especially to those who stood forward prominently in behalf of the government.
* Marshall's History of the American Colonies, Chapters X-X1I.
11

122

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

Meanwhile, the government did all that it could, consistently with dignity and justice, to conciliate the disaffected.
The laws were modified, proclamations were issued, and
an amnesty proffered. But all in vain. At length, President Washington, having the proper sanction of the Supreme
Court, called on the governments of the neighbouring states
in 1794, for their aid in quelling this insurrection. And in
the autumn of that year, 12,000 men from Pennsylvania,
New Jersey, Maryland, and Virginia, advanced upon the
insurgents by way of Bedford and Cumberland. Governor
Lee, of Virginia, commanded ; and, under him, were the
Governors of Pennsylvania and New Jersey. The advance
of this formidable force soon settled the difficulty. The
proffered terms of pardon were accepted. A few of the
chief leaders of the rebellion, who were found, were taken
to Philadelphia for trial. No life was lost; the liberty
poles disappeared * the " whiskey boys " quietly submitted^
,
and thus happily ended the " Whiskey Insurrection."*
3. Western Pennsylvania presents many and strong inducements to eastern emigrants, especially to such as desire
to remove—not exactly to a new and uncultivated country—
but to one where the wilderness has given place, in a good
degree, to cultivated fields. And there are many such emigrants, who, possessing a considerable amount of property,
wish to purchase in a country where land, although fertile
and cultivated, is much cheaper than it is in favourable situations in the older states. Such emigrants will find much
cultivated land in West Pennsylvania, of a good quality, convenient to market, or to the natural and artificial channels
of trade, which abound in this section of our country.
Rivers and roads are found in almost every part, leading to
the great marts of business, either in the East or the West.
Canals are adding to these facilities, and soon Rail Roads
will still more increase them.
Farms can be purchased for various prices, in this entire
region, according to their relative advantages for trade,
and proximity to market towns. It is impossible to state
these prices with much accuracy. Some good farms will
cost 8 or 10 dollars per acre, in a good state of cultivation,
* For a full recount of this insurrection, the reader is referred to the
history of it, written by the late Hon. Mr. Findlay, of Westmoreland
county.

WESTERN

PENNSYLVANIA.

123

and having houses, barns, &c. In more favourable situations they will cost from 15 to 25 dollars per acre; and in
the neighbourhood of considerable towns, they will command even a greater price per acre.
The advantages of this country for trade, agriculture, the
raising of live stock, &c. have already been mentioned.
Many thousands of sheep are raised in Washington county,
and in other counties, for the production of wool. And this
business is found to be profitable. Whilst manufactures of
iron, cotton, wool, &c. &c. now employ profitably a vast
amount of capital.
The climate of West Pennsylvania is eminently salubrious. Of this I speak from long and intimate knowledge.
It is essentially the climate of New Jersey and Eastern
Pennsylvania, as it regards temperature, excepting so far
as it is modified by elevation, which is very considerable in
every portion, and especially along the mountain ranges
and vallies. The Ohio at Pittsburg, is 678 feet above the
Atlantic ocean off Philadelphia, and the hills around are
from 400 to 500 feet higher.
The morals of the people are generally good. Intemperance is rapidly diminishing. Religion was early planted in
this region, and has a great influence upon the public mind.
The preaching of the gospel is enjoyed in almost every
part. Schools are improving, and Sunday schools, with
libraries, are becoming to a good degree general. Whilst
Colleges are numerous, and some of them very good, and
all of them affording an education to young men at a moderate rate of expense. Manual labour schools are also establishing, which are opening the doors of science to the
gifted sons of the humblest and the poorest.
Upon a survey of all these circumstances, I think it may
be truly said that this portion of the West holds out many
inducements to eastern emigrants.

124

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

CHAPTER XIL
The Ohio River and its Scenery.—Western Virginia.

HAVING in the last Chapter given a description of Western Pennsylvania, or what may be properly called the country which lies at the head of the Valley of the Ohio, I proceed to speak of another and more southern portion of this
Valley. The present chapter will contain some account of
the Ohio River, and a brief description of Western Virginia.
The Ohio River may be considered as commencing at
Pittsburg, at the junction of the Monongahela and Alleghany. From that point its general course is towards the N .
W . to Beaver, 28 miles. From Beaver it pursues a course
a little S. of W. to Wellsville, about 50 miles below Pittsburg. From this place its general course is almost due S.
to Marietta, only verging a little to the West, as it approaches that place. From Marietta it pursues a S. W .
course to the mouth of the Sandy. From that point it pursues a westward, or rather a little N . of West course, until, passing Cincinnati, it receives the great Miami. From
its junction with that river to its union with the Mississippi, its main direction is south-west.
The length of the Ohio from Pittsburg to the Mississippi, is 952 miles. In the language of the boatmen it is called 1000, and even 1100 miles long. Cincinnati is nearly
midway from Pittsburg to its junction with the Mississippi.
The captains of the steam boats reckon Louisville to be
near 650 miles below Pittsburg, and 450 fibove the mouth
of the Ohio.
The course of this river, like that of all the streams of
the Valley of the Mississippi, is singularly crooked. Its
bends, as they are called, or meanderings are perpetual and
uniform, and almost monotonous. In no place, from its
source to its mouth, can the eye take in a section of more
than five or ten miles in length; and excepting a few

THE OHIO RIVER AND ITS SCENERY.
cc

125

long reaches,"—which is the boatmen's name for the
straight portions of the river,—not more than from five to
seven miles can often be seen in any one place.
About seventy-five rivers and creeks empty into the Ohio
between Pittsburg and its mouth. The most important of
these are, on the left hand as you descend, Chartiers, in.
West Pennsylvania; Wheeling creek, Little Kanawha,
Great Kanawha, Guyandot and Sandy, from West Virgi*
nia : Little Sandy, Licking, Kentucky, Salt, Green, Cum*
berland and Tennessee, from the state of Kentucky. On
the right, or west side, Beaver, from Pennsylvania; Mus«
kingum, Hocking, Scioto, Little Miami, Great Miami,
from Ohio; Wabash, from Indiana.
Between Pittsburg and the mouth of the Ohio there are
one hundred considerable islands. There is also a number
of sand-bars, tow-heads, &c. Some of the islands are seve*
rai miles long, but of a narrow width. Not a few possess
great beauty, fertility of soil, and afford delightful sites for
a retired residence. They are generally too low to be
very safe situations in times of high floods. They are all
covered with dense forests, save where cultivation has eon*
verted the wilderness into a fruitful field.
The current of the Ohio is remarkably uniform, smooth
and placid. In this respest it is surpassed by no other
river on earth. The banks are generally high and abrupt,
forming in many places bluffs and cliffs of the height of
three or four hundred feet. Between these high bluffs and
hills there are often strips of alluvial land, commonly called
bottoms. These interval or botttom lands possess astonish*
ing fertility. They are often of considerable width, so as
to form farms of large extent, and of great beauty and value,
The high hills which border the river, sometimes in im*
mediate contiguity, at others standing off and leaving a con*
siderable extent of bottom land, varying from a quarter of a
mile to a mile in width, exhibit a wild and picturesque gran*
deur which cannot be conceived by those who have not wit*
nessed such scenery. They are commonly covered, even to
their very summits, with dense forests of oak, beech, wal*
nut, &c. &c. ; whilst along their base and far beneath
their summits, a continuous grove of the white armed syca*
more; the beautiful sugar-maple, ash, elm ; and along the
lower half of the river's course, cotton-wood, hackberry,
11*

126

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

cypress, &c. rear their heads, and add inexpressible beauty
to the prospect. These trees are frequently of a gigantic
size, and cast their broad shadows, in the mornings and
evenings, quite across the placid bosom of the gentle Ohio.
And when seen, during the full moonlight, from the boat
which floats peacefully down the calmly moving stream,
whilst nothing is heard save the bells of the cattle on the
banks, the distant barking of the watchful dog, or the dissonant notes of the " moping owl," the effect on the mind
of the traveller is indescribable. The constant shifting of
the scene, the alternation of bright and dark sides of the
hills, together with the variation in the appearance of
the river—one place reflecting the beautiful beams of the
moon, and another enveloped in the deep shadows cast from
the lofty and overhanging bluffs,—altogether form a scene
surpassing in beauty and effect any thing which I have
elsewhere seen.
I have passed many times up and down this river from
its source to its mouth. At one time 1 descended in a steam
boat, when the river was full of floating ice, and the banks
were covered with snow, and all nature wore a most forbidding aspect. Nothing was pleasant but the fire in the beautiful and elegantly furnished cabin. At another time, I
descended when the heat of a mid-summer's sun, would
have rendered the steam-boat an intolerable place, had it not
been for the perpetual breezes which float up or down the
river. I have passed up and down this river when its stream
was swollen by the vernal and autumnal floods, and when
the largest steam boats proudly pursued their way up and
down between Pittsburg and New Orleans, without obstruction. And I have been on this river, in the latter part of
summer and the beginning of autumn, when it was with the
utmost difficulty that a steam boat of 80 or 100 tons could
pass from Pittsburg to Louisville : when it would sometimes
require hours to get her over a sand-bar or a shoal, with all
the aid that could be given by " sparring," and hauling, by
means of a cable fastened at one end to a tree on shore and
the other to the capstan, or to the shaft of the wheels, whilst
a heavy pressure of steam was employed to force the boat
ahead.
Before the introduction of steam-boats, every species of
water craft was employed in navigating this river—some of
which were of the most whimsical and amusing structure*

THE OHIO RIVER AND ITS SCENERY.

127

The barge, the keel boat, the flat bottom or family boat,
the pirogue or canoe, ferry boats, gondolas, skiffs, dug-outs,
and others, whose designation I cannot this moment recal
to mind, formerly floated in great numbers down the Ohio
and Mississippi, to points of destination sometimes more
than two thousand miles distant from the place from which
they started. And even since the introduction of steamboats, which in great numbers now traverse this river, and
its branches, many hundreds—I might almost say thousands
of these boats—still continue to float on these waters. The
keel boats find much to do, during that portion of the
summer and autumn when the river is too low for the steamboats to run. Hundreds of flat bottom boats (called, in the
western boatman's dialect, " broad horns,") annually float
down from a thousand places on the Ohio and other western
streams, to Cincinnati, or Louisville, or New-Orleans. I
have often passed fifty of them in a day, rowing with their
long sweeps, or else floating leisurely with the current—often two or three lashed or fastened close together, and thus
allowing the hands and passengers to while away the hours
in holding converse together on the extended roof, or in
each other's cabins.
This mode of navigation is slow, compared with the steamboat, but it is cheap—and to people who have but little to
do, or who are not inclined to do much, time is reckoned of
but little consequence. It is a great mistake to suppose that
the introduction of steam-boats has been succeeded by the
disappearance of all this sort of craft. The rapidly increasing trade of this region, together with the cheapness and
convenience of the flat boat navigation, seems to increase,
rather than diminish their number.
Convenient and
pleasant as is a steam-boat for families of emigrants removing to the West, yet there are hundreds and thousands of
such families, who prefer the flat boat, slow as its motion is.
Some prefer it, because they think that it is safer than the
steam-boats, to which so many accidents have happened.
Others cannot afford to bear the expense of a passage in a
steam-boat. Besides, hundreds of farmers, who live on the
small but navigable streams which flow into the Ohio and
other large rivers of the West, build their own boats at little expense, load them with their own and their neighbours'
produce,—and, when they have descended the small streams

128

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

in the vicinity of which they live, find that it is often cheaper to float on down to a distant market in their own
boats, than to ship their cargoes on board of a passing
steam-boat.
These boats, however, are not only subject to great delays, but also exposed to some dangers from the rapids,
sandbars, rocks, arid sudden and violent storms and tornadoes, which sink them before they can be gotten to the
shore. Considering the form of these boats, and their unwieldy nature, it is truly wonderful that more accidents of
this kind do not happen. As it is, they are so seldom, that
they "are scarcely estimated at all, by those whose business
or choice it suits to descend to Cincinnati or New-Orleans,
by this mode of navigation. There is not on earth a class
of men of a more peculiar and marked character, than the
western boatmen. They are as much a sui generis sort of
men, as our sailors are. They have, it is true, lost much
of the lawless and outrageous spirit which they had in the
olden time, and before the introduction of steam-boats upon
the western waters. They have become less intemperate,
more civil in their intercourse with other men, but yet their
distinguishing traits of character remain,—boldness, readiness to encounter almost any danger, recklessness of consequences, and indifference to the wants of the future, amid
the enjoyments, the noise, whiskey and fun, of the present.
It is a mounful fact, that their own inclination, as well as
their mode of life, almost constantly exclude them from the
means of moral and religious instruction. Their condition
is beginning, however, to excite Christian sympathy, and to
elicit suitable efforts for the promotion of their reformation.
There are many beautiful and rapidly growing towns and
cities, between Pittsburg and the mouth of the Ohio. The
chief of them are Beaver, Steubenville, Wellsburg, Wheeling, Marietta, Galliopolis, Burlington, Portsmouth, Maysville, Ripley, Augusta, Cincinnati, Newport, Covington,
Lawrenceburg, Madison, Jeffersonville, Louisville, New
Albany, Henderson, Shawneetown, and Smithland. Almost a hundred more, flourishing, but yet small villages,
springing up on the banks of this beautiful river, might be
mentioned. But I shall reserve whatever degree of particular description of these places I may give in this book,
until I come to speak of the states in which they stand.

WESTERN VIRGINIA.

129

I am acquainted with no river scenery in our country
through which it is more delightful to pass, than that which
borders the Ohio River, in the spring or early part of summer, when all nature seems to be teeming with life—when
the noble forests which crown both the hills and the vales on
each side of this gracefully meandering river, have put on
their dark coloured foliage—and when the balmy breezes,
scented by the flowers of the shrubbery wnich forms the
undergrowth along the banks, are wafted gently over the
noble steam-boat, as she careers along—Or, when autumn
is beginning to shed its mellow influence upon the vegetable
world, and the forests, as the soft and serene day opens in
the morning, or wears away towards the evening, exhibit
from the vales and the lofty banks on either side, the varied
tints,—the yellow, the red, and the purple, intermixed with
the yet unchanging green,—which give signs of the gradual
decline of nature towards the lifelessness and coldness of
approaching winter. Nothing can be more pleasant than to
make a voyage at such a period, in an elegant boat, possessing suitable accommodations, (as many western steamboats do,) in company with pleasant and intelligent passengers. Many an hour will glide swiftly away, while the deck
is promenaded in the morning and the evening—and the
ever-varying scene contemplated with renewed admiration.
But I must now close these general remarks respecting
the Ohio and its scenery, and occupy the remainder of the
chapter with a brief description of Western Virginia.
WESTERN VIRGINIA, is bounded on the north by Pennsylvania, and Maryland ; on the east by the line which separates the waters which flow into the Atlantic by the Potomac, James' River, Roanoke, &c. from those which flow
west; on the south by North Carolina and Tennessee ; west
by Kentucky; and north-west by the Ohio river, which separates it from the state of Ohio. A narrow strip of land
projects northward between a part of the western line of
Pennsylvania and the Ohio river. The area of Western
Virginia is about 26,649 square miles, or two-fifths of the
state. The line of division which separates Western from
Eastern Virginia, can easily be traced on a good map of
the state. On the south-west, the Sandy, up to a certain
point, thence a direct line to the Cumberland Mountains,
and thence along those mountains to the Tennessee line,

130

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

form the boundary which separates Virginia from Kentucky.
The following is a list of the counties in Western Virginia with the census of 1830. In 1820, the population was
147,514. The population of the entire state in 1830 was
1,211,272.
Population
Counties.
County Towns.
in 1830.
Brooke, n w,
Wellsburg,
7,046
Ohio, n w,
Wheeling,
15,584
Monongalia, n w,
Morgantown,
14,056
Harrison, n w,
Clarkesburg,
14,72a
Randolph, n m,
Beverly,
5,000
Russell, s w,
Lebanon,
6,714
Preston, n,
5,244
Kingwood,
Tyler, n w,
Middlebourne, .
4,104
Wood, w,
Parkersbu rg,
6,429
Greenbrier, w m,
Greenbrier, C. H.
9,006
Kanawha, w,
Charleston,
9,326
6,534
Mason, w,
Point Pleasant, .
Lewis, w m,
6,241
Weston,
Nicholas, w m,
Nicholas, C. H.
3,346
Logan, w,
Logan, C. H. .
3,640
Cabell, w,
Cabell, C. H. .
5,834
Monroe, w m,
Union,
7,798
Pocahontas, w m,
Huntersville,
2,542
Giles, w,
Parisburg,
5,274
Montgomery, s w,
Christiansburg,.
12,306
Wythe, s w,
Wythe, C. H. .
12,163
Grayson, s,
Grayson, C. H.
7,675
Tazewell, s w,
Jeffersonville, .
5,749
Washington, s w,
Abingdon,
15,614
Scott, s w,
Estillville,
5,724
Lee, s w.
Lee, C. H.
6,461
Total of Population,

204,173

From the above table it appears that there are 26 counties in Western Virginia. The increase of population has
been somewhat more than 55,000 during the period of ten
years, from 1820 to 1830.
The whole number of counties in the state, in 1830, was
105.

WESTERN VIRGINIA.

131

Executive Government of Virginia.—Governor elected
by the General Assembly—term of office, three years, salary $3,333J. Lieutenant Governor, #1,000. Two Counsellors, each $1,000. Treasurer and Auditor, each $2,000.
LEGISLATURE, styled the Greneral Assembly of Virginia,
consists of a Senate and House of Delegates* The Senate
consists of 32 members ; and the House of Delegates of
134, of whom 31 are elected by the counties in Western
Virginia. The Legislature meets annually on the 1st Monday in December, at Richmond, the capital of the State.
JUDICIARY.—The Court of Appeals consists of a President, with a salary of $2,720, and four other judges, whose
salary is $2,500 each. This Court holds two sessions annually, one at Richmond, for East Virginia ; the other at
Lewisburg, in Greenbrier County, for West Virginia, including all the counties West of the Blue Ridge, commencing on the first Monday in July, and continuing ninety days,
if business requires it.
General Court.—The state is divided into ten districts
and twenty circuits. There are twenty Judges,—one for
each circuit. A Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery is held twice every year in each county and corporation.
Face of the Country, fyc.—The eastern part of Western
Virginia, as any one will perceive who examines a wellexecuted map of Virginia, is composed of a section of the
Allegheny system of mountains. This mountainous section
is much wider on the south than on the north, for the dividing line which separates the eastern from the western
streams crosses over from the Blue Ridge to one of the
western ranges of this system of mountains, at a short distance north of the New River, which is the main branch
of the Kanawha River. So that whilst many ridges and
spurs of the Alleghenies are in the southern part, there are
but two or three mountain ridges, exclusive of the detached
portions, in the middle and northern parts of Western Virginia.
The vallies which lie between these mountains are by no
means always narrow strips of comparatively level land;
they often expand until they seem, to one surveying them
from an elevated spot, like vast basins, surrounded by elevated mountains. Such is the valley in which Abingdon is

132

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

situated, and that which embosoms a large portion of East
Tennessee, having the Clinch, and further south the Cumberland mountains, on the west, and the Blue Ridge on the
east. Much, however, of this vast basin in East Tennessee is interrupted by minor mountains and ridges, which,
when compared with the great natural boundaries, in the
distance, are insignificant. In Virginia, the ridges are
more compact, so to speak, than in East Tennessee. Still
the valley in which Wythe and Washington counties are
situated, having Walker's mountain on the west, resembles
more a basin than a valley. Smaller basins, such as Burke's
Garden, are to be found throughout the whole mountainous
region in Virginia.
Nothing can be more beautiful to the eye of the traveller, as he pursues his way over these successive ridges, than
to survey, from their summits, the vallies and basins which
lie before him, and on his right and left. They appear often
like vast oceans of trees, lying at an immense distance below him, waving their green surfaces to the various blasts
of wind which agitate them. They are not now continous
forests. Here and theie, the green surface is interrupted
by cultivated farms, fields of grass, of corn, or of wheat, adding variety to the scene, as well as giving assurance to the
traveller that he is in a land inhabited by civilized men.
The mountainous belt, in Virginia, is about 120 miles in
width, being composed of successive parallel ridges or
mountains, interrupted by the rivers and smaller streams,
which intersect them in various places. Beyond these
mountains lies the hilly portion of Western Virginia, sloping down to the Ohio river.
An examination of this mountainous zone, stretching from
south-west to north-east, presents this remarkable phenomenon, viz. these mountain ridges have little or no effect upon
the course of the rivers which rise and flow from this elevated region. They run east or west, without having their
course affected by opposing mountains; for when necessary, they seem to cut through them, as if these everlasting
barriers afforded no impediment at all to their course. And
their sources interlock with, and pass by each other, pursuing their opposite ways, without any reference to the
mountain ridges, so that you can select no one of these
ridges as the great dividing line, separating the western

WESTERN VIRGINIA.

133

from the eastern waters. In fact they rise on the great
elevated table-land upon which the mountains seem to have
been superimposed, and have their courses shaped entirely
by the declinations of its surface, without reference to the
mountains at all; so that if one could imagine these mountains to be removed away, the rivers would still pursue
their channels, formed in the eternal base, unaffected by
the removal of the mountain mass.
Beginning at the southern end of this mountain system,
as it regards Virginia, on the Tennessee and North Carolina
line, and advancing northward, you first find the Holston,
Clinch, & c , flowing south-westward into the Tennessee,
and so into the Mississippi. Next you come to the New
River, or main branch of the Great Kanawha, which rises
in the north-west angle of North Carolina, and runs northwest through every ridge of the Allegheny system, (including what is called the Allegheny Ridge) excepting the
Blue Ridge, on the west side of which it rises. As you
proceed further northward,you come to the Roanoke, which
rises west of the Blue Ridge, and in its course south-eastward, cuts through that mountain. Next you come to the
James River, which also cuts the Blue Ridge; and some of
its main branches rising far to the West, cut through every
ridge of the system, save the most western one or two.
Still further north you -find the Potomac, and its branches
rising almost in the western sides of the mountainous region,
and cutting in its way eastward almost all the ridges; and
on the opposite side, you find the Monongahela, and its
branches the Cheat and Youghiogany, in their course westward, cutting through the remaining ridges. Indeed these
remarks might be extended to those parts of the Allegheny
system which lie south and north of Virginia. I shall
leave to others to account for this phenomenon.
The vallies which lie between these mountain ridges possess, generally, great fertility of soil. And no climate is
more salubrious. The traveller who would spend the summer months in visiting this region, whether in quest of
health or pleasure, will not find himself disappointed. There
is a good line of stages running from Richmond, by way of
Staunton, Lexington, Lewisburg, Charleston on the Kanawha, to Guyandot on the Ohio, crossing the Alleghenies.
Another runs up the great valley, intersecting the one from
12

134

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Washington via Lynchburg, and continues on through the
south-eastern angle of Western Virginia, into East Tennessee. Tours along these and other roads in this mountain
region, although over rough roads, will be found to be very
pleasant in the summer and autumn. I have never witnessed finer scenery than these mountains and vallies, interspersed with well cultivated farms, afford.
The Legislature of Virginia, at its Session in the winter
of 1830-31, incorporated a company to make a rail-road
from Lynchburg to the New River, or principal branch of
the Kanawha. It is now proposed to contine this rail-road
through Abingdon, into the centre of East Tennessee, to
Kingsport or Knoxville on the Holston,—and, perhaps,
ultimately, into the northern part of Alabama. Several
meetings have been held in various towns in this region, to
consider the subject, and devise measures to promote it.
That such an improvement would be of immense advantage
to this region, fertile not only in soil, but also in the most
valuable minerals, and yet shut out from many of those facilities of trade enjoyed by most other sections of our country,
is manifest—And nothing but a rail-road can well be made.
It would be from 250 to 300 miles in length, over a very
favourable surface, and open an easy mode of conveying an
immense amount of valuable productions to an eastern market, and thus increase the population and the wealth of this
interesting region. In the counties through, or near which
such a road will pass, if ever made, are to be found in abundant quantities, coal and copper, in Montgomery;—lead,
in Wythe, so abundant that vast quantities would be sent
to the East, if it could be transported at a sufficiently low
price; salt, in Washington, (a few miles from Abingdon)
where one hundred thousand bushels will be made this year,
and where enough could be made to supply East Tennessee
and East Virginia,—-gypsum, in Washington, superior to
that of Nova Scotia, and very abundant: iron, in unlimited
quantities, can be manufactured in Wythe and Washington,
in Virginia, and in Carter, Sullivan, and Washington counties, in Tennessee.
This rail-road I trust will be undertaken soon. Northern
capitalists will find it profitable stock. Engineers are now
surveying the ground, and find it to afford the best of facilities. The route of this proposed rail-road is the natural

WESTERN VIRGINIA.

135

outlet of the productions of South-Western Virginia, and
Eastern Tennessee. Expensive as the carriage is, flour and
wheat are carried by wagons from this region to Baltimore;
and even 4,000 bales of cotton were last year carried from
East Tennessee, in this way, to the same city. And all the
merchandise which is sold in South-West Virginia and East
Tennessee, is brought, at great cost, in wagons from Baltimore or Lynchburg.
The country which reaches down from the mountain
range to the Ohio, in Western Virginia, is generally hilly.
These hills are often of great height, of a round and cononicai shape, insulated by ravines, or by narrow bottom
lands, which separate their bases. The surface of this
portion of the state is, therefore, exceedingly diversified;
and much of the hilly parts is not susceptible of cultivation, on account of its unevenness.
Soil and Productions.—The soil of the bottom lands is
generally of great fertility. Along the water-courses, there
is much land of a fine quality. The sides and summits of
the hills, in. many cases, have a productive soil. In some
places, however, the hills are rocky and barren. The
whole country, in a state of nature, was covered with dense
forests of oak, ash, elm, sugar-maple, sycamore, poplar,
&c. The sycamore grows along the water-courses ; the
maple, elm, buck-eye, and paw-paw, grow on the alluvial
bottoms chiefly.
The productions are wheat, rye, maize, (universally called corn in the West, and indeed generally throughout the
United States,) oats, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, &c. &c.
Tobacco is raised in some counties to a considerable extent.
Cattle, horses and hogs, are here raised for an eastern market. Flour, corn, &c. are in great quantities sent by the
various rivers of this section of our country, to New-Orleans and other places in the lower part of the Valley.
Salt is manufactured, in great quantities, on the Kanawha River, in the vicinity of Charleston, about 65 miles above
its mouth. At the point where the salt factories are established, the Kanawha River is about 150 yards wide. The
" salt region" extends 15 miles along the river, and the quantity of salt now manufactured annually, is about 1,200,000
bushels ; and may be extended to an indefinite amount.
The salt water is obtained by boring through a great rock,

136

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

to the depth of from 300 to 500 feet. Copper or tin tubes
are introduced to keep out the fresh water, which lies above
the salt water, and the latter rises as high as the surface
of the river ; along the margin of which, and in the water's
edge, though all communication with it is cut off, the wells
are sunk. It is then raised to the top of the bank of the
river, about 40 feet, by forcing pumps, propelled by steamengines, and conveyed to the furnaces as required. Bituminous coal abounds on the spot, and is used for the purposes of evaporating the water.
These works at present employ about 1,000 men} as saltmakers, coopers, boat-builders, &c. The average price
of salt has hardly exceeded 30 or 35 cents per bushel at
them. By means of the increasing channels of cheap
transportation, which are now opening by canals, rail-roads,
&c. supplies of salt may be obtained from the West in
future emergencies,—such as happened in the last war.
During the year 1827,787,000 bushels of salt were made
at these works, giving employment to 471 regular labourers, and using 1,695,000 bushels of coal in evaporating 64
millions of gallons of water. The capital employed was
estimated at $548,000, and the agricultural productions
consumed, valued at $47,600, besides the cost of 133 tons
of iron, and $7,950 paid to mechanics. And all this is exclusive of the cost of transportations, making of barrels,
building of wagons, boats, &c.
About 100,000 bushels of salt are now annually made in
the neighborhood of Abingdon, in Washington county, as
I have already remarked.*
No state in the Union is richer in valuable minerals than
Virginia, and particularly the western part of it. Iron is
every where abundant in the mountainous regions. Coal,
gypsum, lead, copper, &c. are also found in the south-western counties, and will probably be abundant. Mineral
springs of the most valuable character are found in several
* I t is estimated that about $7,000,000 are invested in the manufac*
ture of salt in the United States. I n 1829, 4,444,929 bushels of salt'
were manufactured in the United States, one half of which were made
in the Valley of the Mississippi, and 5,901,157 bushels were imported.
Before good roads were made across the Alleghenies, salt sold in the
West as high as $12 per bushel, equal to 24 bushels of wheat! And
even after good roads were made, but before it was manufactured in
the West, it sold from $3 to $5 per bushel! Now it costs from from
37 J to 50 cents per bushel

*

C Churches
a United' States Bank
b Commercial Bank
c Mayors Office
d Council Chamber
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ft- Jail
h Theatre
N
i Cincinnati Coller/v
j Medical College
k Hospital
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in Ampiutheatre
n ,#«/#, House
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Hotel
\> Peart Street.
House
q Sai-ings
Bank
v lioodnartf
Free School
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Museumt Jjetten's
Museum
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Paintings
v Surveyor
Gente. Office
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•

WESTERN VIRGINIA.

137

places. The most celebrated of these are the Warm, Hot,
Sweet, White Sulphur, and Red Sulphur Springs, in the
midst of the mountains; and partly in West, and partly in
Central Virginia—and are found in Greenbrier, Bath, and
Monroe counties. There are fine orchards in Western
Virginia ; and apples and cider constitute important articles of exportation. Lumber of every description is also,
in large quantities, sent down the rivers to the Ohio, and
thence to the towns in the lower part of the Valley.
Western Virginia is drained by a considerable number
of streams, which are navigable for flat boats, and some
for steam-boats, during the spring and fall months. On the
North is the Monongahela and its branches ; on the West,
Wheeling Creek, Little Kanawha, Great Kanawha, Guyandot, Sandy, and many smaller streams ; and on the South,
is the Holston and its branches. These streams, flowing
down from the mountains, are rapid in their currents, and
have numerous cataracts towards their sources, which furnish fine water-power for mills, &c.
Towns.—There
are many very pleasant towns in
Western Virginia. The largest is Wheeling, which is
situated on the Ohio, 92 miles below Pittsburg. It is a
place of great business. At this point, thousands of travellers and emigrants embark on board the steam-boats for
the more distant West. The national road from Cumberland to Columbus and St. Louis, crosses the Ohio at this
place. This road is completed beyond Zanesville, in Ohio :
and will be finished to Columbus soon. It has cost a vast
sum of money, and is a great public benefit. The population of Wheeling is about 6,000, and is rapidly increasing.
The situation of this town is quite romantic lying below
very lofty hills. It is a place of extensive manufactures
in iron, cotton, flour, &c. Steam-boats are built here.
Morgantown,
Clarksburg,
Lewisburg,
Abingdon,
Charleston, Wellsburg, Point Pleasant,
Parkersburg,
and many others, might be mentioned as pleasant places.
Education.—The state of Virginia has established no
general system of common schools. In this respect Western Virginia is in the same condition as Western Pennsylvania. Virginia appropriates, however, #45,000 annually
to educate poor children. This is a very defective measure, but accomplishes some good. Academies exist in
12*

138

VALLEY OF T H E MISSISSIPPI.

some of the larger towns. But there is no College in
Western Virginia. There is but little need, perhaps, that
there should be, as there are many Colleges in the neighbouring states.
GENERAL REMARKS.
1. The character of the people of Western Virginia, is
very different from that of the inhabitants of the Eastern
part of the state. There are but few slaves in the West,
less wealth, and more industry and equality among the people. Their manners resemble much more those of Western
Pennsylvania than those of Eastern Virginia.
2. The climate is one of pre-eminent salubrity. No part
of the West enjoys greater, if as great, advantages in this
respect.
3. Although there is no public land for sale in Western
Virginia, yet emigrants will find much land of good quality
offered for sale, by those .who, have cultivated it for several
years, and are now desirous of removing still farther west.
4. Very spirited efforts* arerfbw making by the inhabitants of Eastern arid'Western Virginia1, to secure the construction of a canal, or, if that cannot be done, a rail-road,
from the James River to the Kanawha. And there can
be but little doubt, that there will soon be such a channel
of communication between the East and the West, through
this state. Its importance must be obvious to every one.
5. The early history of Western Virginia, if well written, would constitute a chapter filled with the details of the
hardships, sufferings, and massacres of the first emigrants.
But few events, however, of general interest at this time,
occurred in this section of our country. Logan, the
famous Mingo chief, lived near the mouth of the Kanawha
River. The story of his calamities, as well as a specimen
of his simple but affecting eloquence, is well known.
6. A mile and a half below Parkersburg, at the mouth
of the Little Kanawha, is the celebrated island which was
formerly the residence of Mr. Blennerhasset. The beauty
and charms of this delightful spot, like the once cheering
prospects of its former proprietor, have long since disappeared.

JPage iz?.

139

OHIO.

CHAPTER XIIL
OHIO.
T H E STATE OF OHIO is bounded on the north by Lake

Erie and Michigan Territory ; east by Pennsylvania and
Virginia ; south by the Ohio river, which separates it from
Western Virginia and Kentucky ; and west by Indiana.
Extending from N . lat. 38° 30' to 42°, and in Ion. from
3° 34' to 7° 44' W. from Washington. Its area is 39,750
square miles, or 25,440,000 acres.
The Ohio river forms the boundary of this state on the
south-east and south, for near 500 miles.
TABLE OF T H E COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.

COUNTIES.

Adams,
Ashtabula,
Athens,
Allen,
Butler,
Belmont,
Brown,
Champaign,
Clarke,
Clermont,
Columbiana,
Coshocton,
Cuyahoga,
Crawford,
Clinton,
Dark,
Delaware,
Fairfield,

SITUATION^

POPULATION
t COUNTY TOWNS.

IN 1830. '

12,231 West Union,
n e, 14,584 Jefferson,
s e,
9,787 Athens, [ta,
w m,
578 Wapaghkonetsiv, 27,142 Hamilton,
28,627 St. Clairsville,
e,
s, j 17,867 Georgetown,
w m, 12,131 Urbana,
swm,
13,114 Springfield,
s w, 20,466 Batavia,
35,592 New Lisbon,
e,
e m, 11,161 Coshocton,
n e, 10,373 Cleveland,
n m}
4,791 Bucyrus,
s m. 11,436 Wilmington,
w,
6,204 Greenville,
m,
11,504 Delaware,
1 w, 1 24,786 Lancaster,

*
»

Distance
from
Columbus.

Tol

191
73
110
101
124
104
50
43
109
152
84
138
69
67
103
23
28

140

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI

(Table Continued.)
COUNTIES.

Fayette,
Franklin,
Gallia,
Geauga,
Green,
Guernsey,
Hamilton,
Hocking,
Highland,
Harrison,
Hancock,
Hardin,
Henry,
Holmes,
Huron,
Jefferson,
Jackson,
Knox,
Lawrence,
Licking,
Lorraine,
Logan,
Madison,
Marion,
Medina,
Meigs,
Mercer,
Miami,
Monroe,
Montgomery,
Morgan,
Muskingum,
Perry,
Pickaway,
Pike,
Portage,
Preble,
Putnam,

POPULASITUATION
TION. IN 1830.

m,
m,
s,
n e,
swm,
e m,
S IV,

s m,
s m,
e
>
n w m,
w m,
n w,
m,
n,
e,
s,
m,
s,
m,
n,
w m,
m,
m,
n em,
8 e,
w,
w m,
s e,
w m,
s e,
m,
s m,
m,
s>
n e,
IV,

n w,

COUNTY TOWNS.

8,182 Washington, ;
14,741 COLUMBUS,
9,733 Gallipolis,
15,813 Chardon,
14,801 Xenia,
18,036 Cambridge,
52,317 Cincinnati,
4,008 Logan,
16,345 Hillsboro',
20,916 Cadiz,
813 Finlay,
210 Hardin,
262 Napoleon,
9,135 Millersburg,
13,346 Norwalk,
22,489 Steubenville,
5,941 Jackson,
17,085 Mount Vernon,
5,367 Burlington,
20,869 Newark,
5,696 Elyria,
6,440 Bellefontaine,
6,190 London,
6,551 Marion,
7,560 Medina,
6,158 Chester,
1,110 St. Mary's,
12,807 Troy,
8,768 Woodfield,
24,362 Dayton, [ville,
11,800 McConnells29,334 Zanesville,
13,970 Somerset,
16,001 Circleville,
6,024 Piketon,
18,826 Ravenna,
16,291 Eaton,
230 Sugar Grove,

Distance
from
Columbus.

45
108
157
57
83
112
47
74
124
114
66
161
80
113
149
74
45
135
34
130
62
27
47
111
94
111
78
140
66
70
59
46
26
65
127
92
148

141

OHIO

(Table
COUNTIES.

SITUATION.

continued,)

POPULATION
IN 1830.

COUNTY TOWNS.

Distance from
Columbus.

Paulding,
n to,
161
Richland,
n m, 24,008 Mansfield,
Ross,
s m, 24,068 Chillicothe,
Sandusky,
2,851 L'r Sandusky,
n,
Shelby,
w m,
3,671 Sydney,
Scioto,
8,740 Portsmouth,
s?
Seneca,
n m,
6,159 Tiffin,
Stark,
e m, 26,588 Canton,
Tuscarawas,
e m, 14,298 New Philad'a.
Trumbull,
n e, 26,123 Warren,
Union,
m,
3,192 Marysville,
Van Wert,
n w,
49 Willshire,
s e, 11,731 Marietta,
Washington,
Wayne,
n m, 23,333 Wooster,
Williams,
n w,
387 Defiance,
21,468 Lebanon,
,
Warren,
swm,
Wood,
n w,
l,102JPerrysburg,
Total, 73 Count ies,
937,903|

71
45
103
86
91
85
116
107
157
37
146
106
86
175
83
135

Population of Ohio at different periods.
Population.

1790, about
3,000 From 1790 to 1800,
1800,
45,365
< 1800 < 1810,
1810,
< 230,760
* 1810 < 1820,
1820,
< 581,434
< 1820 < 1830,
1830,
< 937,903

Increase^

42,365
185,395
350,674
356,469

GOVERNMENT.—Governor, term of office two years, salary $1,200 ; Secretary of State ; Treasurer; and Auditor.
Senate consists of 36 members, elected biennially;
House of Representatives consists of 72 members, elected
annually.
JUDICIARY.—Supreme Court consists of a Chief Judge
and three Associate Judges—salaries, $1,200 each.
Courts of Common Pleas.—The state is divided into
nine districts, in each of which there is a presiding Judge,

142

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

salary $1000, and two Associates in each county who receive each, $2 50 per day, during their attendance at Court.
All the judges of the Supreme Court and the Courts of
Common Pleas are elected by the House of Representatives for the term of 7 years. The Supreme Court sits
once a year in each county, and the Court of Common
Pleas three times a year.
The only capital crime in Ohio is murder in the first
degree. There is no imprisonment for debt, except in
case of fraudulent withholding of property.
Columbus is the seat of Government.
Face of the Country. The eastern part of the state
which borders on Pennsylvania is hilly, but gradually becomes more level as you approach westward. Along the
whole course of the Ohio River, there is, in this state, a
strip of land, of from 10 to 15 miles, and in some places
more, in width, which is broken and hilly. These hills,
especially in the immediate vicinity of the river, are very
high and often of quite a mountainous aspect.
The western half of the state is in general remarkably
level. On the immediate borders of Indiana, it is so much so
as to assume a very monotonous appearance. The central
parts of the state, from the neighbourhood of the Ohio
River up to lake Erie may be compared, as it regards level
character, not with entire accuracy, to the country around
Philadelphia, or rather that portion of Pennsylvania which
is seen by the traveller as he passes from that city to Lancaster by the main turnpike road.
Soil.—At least three-fourth parts of this state possess a
soil that may be said to be fertile, and a large portion may
safely be pronounced to be first rate land. Even the highest
hills commonly possess a good soil, and are covered in a
state of nature, with forests of trees of prodigious size. In
some cases, especially in the portion of the state bordering
immediately on the Ohio river, they are too rocky to be
susceptible of any mode of cultivation. Sometimes the
bluffs on and near the mouths of the rivers which fall into
that stream, exhibit on their sides masses of exposed grey
limestone or sandstone.
That part of Ohio which maybe considered as the poorest,
as to soil and vegetable productions, is a district of country
Jying along the Ohio River, commencing in Belmont county,

OHIO.

143

stretching down to the Scioto river, and extending from
the Ohio into the state to the average distance of about 40
or 50 miles. Many of the hills in this district are stony,
and have a sterile soil. They abound in metallic ore, marble, and other valuable species of stone, such as are suitable
for mill-stones, oil-stones, &c. &c. On the water courses
there is a considerable quantity of fertile land even in this
district.
The vallies of the Miamis the Scioto, and a portion of
those of the Hocking and Muskingum, have much land of
the very finest quality. The same may be said, although
in a sense somewhat more qualified, of the vallies of the
Maumee, Sandusky, Cuyahoga and other streams which
flow into Lake Erie.
Forty years ago this state was covered with one immense, uninterrupted, forest of oak, walnut, hickory, ash,
poplar, beech, locust, elm, sugar tree, &c. &c. And even
now, to one who stands on an eminence in any part of the
state, and surveys this country, the cleared land bears no
comparison with that which, is yet covered by the lofty
forest. The sycamore, elm, honey-locust, sugar-maple,
buck-eye, grow chiefly in the level and fertile alluvial bottoms. The under wood of this country is such as the dog
wood, spice wood, red bud, sassafras, sumach, paw-paw,
iron wood, &c. The dog wood grows on all lands. The
paw-paw, and spice wood grow on fertile soils, the former
chiefly on alluvial bottoms.
The hackberry is found in the western part of the state
on bottom lands: a species of the buck-eye is the horse
chesnut of the east. The linden tree is the bass of New England. There are several species of the oak, viz. black,
white, red, jack, post, &c. and of the walnut, hickory, &c.
in the west.
Beech grows on two kinds of lands—on low wet bottoms,
and on elevated undulating and even hilly land. Its prevalence is indicative of a cold soil, not always very fertile, but
generally productive and very lasting. A large portion of the
land in the vicinity of the Ohio is covered with beech interspersed with other timber, and on the very level lands in the
north-western part of the state, on the streams of the Maumee and Sandusky, this species of timber greatly abounds.
Rivers.—This state is composed of two unequal inclined

144

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

planes. The longer of which slopes down southward to
the Ohio river, and the shorter slopes northward to Lake
Erie. Down these planes flow all the rivers of the state.
The streams which flow into the Ohio, are the Mahoning, a
branch of the Beaver, Little Beaver, Muskingum, Hocking,
Scioto, Little Miami and Great Miami. Those which flow
into Lake Erie are the Maumee, Portage, Sandusky, Cuyahoga, Grand, and Ashtabula. These streams afford numerous and highly important facilities for boat navigation,
to the various sections of the state through which they flow.
The Muskingum, Scioto, Great Miami, Maumee and Cuyahoga are particularly important streams, as they flow from
the table-land of the state, and their upper branches so interlock with each other as to render the construction of canals
not only a practicable, but alsoacomparatively easy undertaking. Vast quantities of the cultivated productions of this
state, as well as of timber, and lumber of every sort, are
every year sent down these rivers to the Ohio and Lake
Erie, and find a distant market in New-Orleans and NewYork.
Canals and Roads.—Two important canals have been
undertaken by this enterprising state. l.The Ohio and Erie
Canal. This canal commences on Lake Erie at Cleveland,
at the mouth of the Cuyahoga. It follows the banks of that
river 37 miles, thence it crosses Portage summit to the Tuscarawas river, descends along the course of that river to the
Tomoka creek, a little stream which falls into that river from
the west, a few miles below the town of Coshocton; it
ascends along the Tomoka a short distance and thence crosses over to the Licking river, a branch of the Muskingum; it
ascends along the Licking to a point on the South Fork a few
miles south of Newark; thence it crosses over to Walnut
creek, a small stream which falls into the Scioto; after
reaching that river, it descends along the eastern bank to
Circleville, and there crosses over to the west or right bank
of the river; descending along that bank it passesChillicothe,
and continues to the mouth of the Scioto at Portsmouth.
The length of this canal is 307 miles, its width is 40 feet9
and the depth of water 4 feet. There is a feeder extending 10 miles from Columbus, to the main canal, and also one
from Racoon creek near the Licking summit. This canal
crosses several streams on aqueducts, such as those over

OHIO.

145

the Cuyahoga, Tuscarawas, White Woman, and Scioto,
besides many smaller ones.
This canal is now completed. This great work was
commenced in 1825. It has gone forward at a steady rate.
Many difficulties have been encountered in its prosecution.
There are 1,185 feet of lockage on this canal. The surface of Lake Erie is 568 feet, and that of the Ohio River
at Portsmouth 474, above the ocean level. This canal has
opened a large amount of trade between the central parts
of Ohio and New-York.
2. The Miami Canal; which extends from Cincinnati
to Dayton on the Miami River. It is 65 miles in length,
exclusive of feeders. The dimensions are the same as those
of the Ohio and Erie canal. It was finished in 1830,
and has opened a channel of trade between Cincinnati and
one of the finest portions of the state. It cost the sum of
$746,852. It is probable that this canal will be continued,
at some future time, to the Maumee, an entire distance
from Cincinnati, of 265 miles.
In 1828, the general government appropriated to the
state of Ohio the half of the public lands along the canal,
within the distance of 5 miles on each side of it, provided
the work should be undertaken within five years from the
approval of that act, and finished within twenty years ; and
also provided that the said canal be a public highway for
the business of the government of the United States, free
from tolls. The state has ageed to continue this canal as
far as the sales of the public land will sustain the expense.
Erie and Mad River Rail-Road*—It is proposed to
make a rail-road from Sandusky to Dayton on the Miami
River. By this route another channel for commercial intercourse will be opened between Lake Erie and the Ohio.
The length of this rail-road will be 153 miles, and will cost
$10,775 per mile. It is ascertained that it is perfectly
practicable to make this road, and a company have undertaken the work. In a few years it will be completed. This
road will pass through Tiffin, Bellefontaine, Urbana, and
Springfield.
Congress further assigned to this state 500,000 acres of
the public lands which lie within it, for the construction of
any other canals, or extention of those which were then
commenced, upon the conditions that the same be complete
13

146

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

within seven years from the time of the approval of this
act; and that the said canals shall be public highways for
the use of the government of the United States, free from
toll, forever. The total quantity of land granted by Congress to this State for internal improvements, is 922,937
acres.
To construct the canals above described, which are 372
miles in length, and benefit a large portion of the people,
the state has borrowed the following sums, which, with
their respective amount of interest, are given from the
Ohio State Journal :
Sum borrowed.

Loan
"
"
"
"

of
"
"
"
"

1825
1826
1827
1828
1830

$400,000
1,000,000
1,200,000
1,200,000
600,000

Per Cent. Interest.

at

5
6
6
6
6

a
it
Cl

a

$20,000
60,000
72,000
72,000
36,000

Foreign Debt,
$4,400,000
School Fund, (bor'd.) 169,460
Total,

$260,000
10,167

$4,569,460

$270,167

To meet the interest due last year,
the following sources were relied on :
Direct Tax of 2 mills on a dollar,
Canal Tolls
Sales of land granted by Congress,
Donations, interest on deposits, &c.
Amounting to

. . .

on the canal loans,
-

-

-

-

$121,516
80,000
50,000
20,000

-

$271,516

The taxes in 1831, for canal, state, county, township,
and school purposes, &c. amounted to $585,076 21, or
about 62 cents, upon the average, to every inhabitant of
the state.
The national road from Cumberland into the West, is
completed to the vicinity of Columbus. It is laid out from
Columbus, through Indianapolis and Terre Haute in Indiana, to Vandalia in Illinois, and will terminate probably at
St. Louis. There is no*where in our country a finer road

OHIO.

147

than the part of it which is finished from Wheeling to the
vicinity of Columbus. This road is now of great advantage to Ohio, and will be far more so when the whole line
is completed.
There is now a road making, to be McAdamized, if practicable, from Cincinnati to Columbus,—which is to be, eventually, continued to Lake Erie. The principal roads, with
the distances marked, are indicated on the map which relates to this and the succeeding chapter.
There is a large number of lines of stages in this state,
some of which start daily, but the most of them three times
a week. I can only mention a few of them. 1. There are
two lines daily, called the Mail and Accommodation Lines,
from Cincinnati through Columbus, to Washington and Baltimore. 2. A line from Cincinnati, by way of Hillsboro',
Chillicothe, and Lancaster, intersecting the above mentioned lines at Zanesville. 3. A line from Columbus up to
Cleveland, by way of Wooster. 4. One from Wooster to
Pittsburg, by way of Canton and New Lisbon. 5. From
Buffalo in New York, to Detroit, along the Lake shore in
this state. There are also lines from various points on the
Ohio, such as Ripley, Portsmouth, Gallipolis, &c. up into
the central points of the state, and continued to Lake Erie.
Indeed, there is scarcely any important place in the state,
which cannot be approached by stage, especially from
March to December.
Productions.—This state produces abundantly every
thing which grows in the middle states. Corn grows luxuriantly, yielding, on rich alluvial bottom lands, from 50 to
75 bushels per acre. Fifty bushels per acre, are a common and almost average crop. Wheat grows finely in this
state, and flour is exported in vast quantities by the Ohio
and Lake Erie, to Southern and Eastern markets. Many
Steam Mills have been erected in this state, especially in
the vicinity of the Ohio River, for the manufacturing of
flour. Mills for the same purpose, propelled by water, are
to be found in every part of the state. Rye, oats, buckwheat, &c. &c. grow abundantly in every part of the state.
Melons, squashes, pumpkins, beans, peas, potatoes, onions,
beets, carrots, parsnips, tomatos—and, in a word, all sorts
of vegetables which grow in the middle and northern states,
are raised in great perfection.
Hemp is cultivated to some extent. Tobacco is begin-

148

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ningto be raised in considerable quantities, for exportation
Flax is grown by almost every farmer for domestic manufacture.
The orchards of this state would be excellent, if sufficient attention were paid to them. Apples, peaches, pears,
quinces, apricots, plums, cherries, currants, gooseberries,
strawberries, and all kinds of fruits which are the growth
of this climate, are ahundant in this state, wherever attention is bestowed upon their cultivation.
Horses, cattle and hogs, are here raised in great numbers, and driven to an eastern market. And thousands of
barrels of beef and pork, are boated from all the towns on
the navigable streams, for the southern part of the Valley,
or to New-York. In the year 1831, 410 flat bottom boats
arrived at New-Orleans, loaded with salted beef and pork,
flour, corn, in ears or in meal, apples, cider, dried fruits,
whiskey, &c. from this state. How great a quantity of
these articles was shipped on steam-boats for the same destination, or transported by Lake Erie to the East, I have
not the means of stating accurately. Vast quantities of
lumber are annually senjt-down the Ohio River from this
state.*

• ,:-;

•-.

•-•::':

; f

r.

Manufactures,—Tbere are a numbed of cotton and woollen factories established in the towns along the Ohio. Cincinnati is a rival of Pittsburg, in manufactures of iron, &c.
I shall have occasion to speak particularly of the manufactures of that city, in another place. There are a number
of furnaces for smelting iron ore in the counties along the
Ohio, particularly in the region of Hocking River. Glass
is manufactured in several towns in the same part of the
state. Iron is also made in some of the counties border* Some idea, although a very imperfect one, of the vast quantity
and value of the exports of this state, may be obtained from the following- statement.
From the 1st of April to the 1st And from the 4tb of March to the
of July 1829, there were trans4th of April 1831, there passed
ported on the Miami Canal to
along this Canal—
Flour,
Cincinnati—
37,642 bbls.
Of Flour,
21,485 bbls.
Whiskey,
4,582 do.
Whiskey,
9,822 do.
Pork,
10,384 do.
Pork,
3,834 do.
Lard,
15,549 kgs.
Lard,
2,593 kegs.
and
273 bbs.
Corn,
11,095 bush's. Bacon,
38^ hds*
and in bulk,
1,072,910 lbs.

OHIO.

149

ing on Lake Erie. On the Muskingum, below Zanesville,
salt is manufactured at various places, for about thirty
miles. About 250,000 bushels are made annually. Considerable quantities are also made on Yellow Creek, about
14 or 15 miles above Steubenville. In 1830, there were,
in this state, $334,762 invested in the manufacture of salt,
and 446,350 bushels were made.
In every town and village in the state, all the ordinary
manufactures, such as hats, cabinet wrare, &c. &c. are
made to an extent proportioned to the demand. And almost every farmer in the state is the manufacturer of a
large part of the articles of wearing apparel, &c. which
his family need. It is impossible to make any estimate of
these things. But if it could be done, it would exhibit a
very great amount of manufactures of this sort, and of immense value.
Cities and Towns*—CINCINNATI, is the great commercial emporium of this state—and, next to New-Orleans,
the largest city in the Valley of the Mississippi. It is situated on the right or western bank of the Ohio, at North
latitude 39° 06', and west longitude 7° 25'. It stands on
the first and second banks of the river—the former of which
is above ordinary high water, and the latter gently rises
about 60 feet more, and then spreads out in an extended,
level plain.
No city has a more beautiful site than that which Cincinnati occupies. The Ohio here pursues its meandering
way towards the west. Immediately opposite the city it
runs nearly due west; consequently, the city faces the
south. But the river bends, both above and below the city,
and pursues a straight course but a short distance.
The reader will have a good idea of Cincinnati, by imagining an extensive circular plain, bounded by high wooded
hills, forming a circumference of about 12 miles ; and that
this plain is divided by a gently meandering and beautiful
river, flowing through it on its westward way. The city
spreads out on the northern bank, whilst opposite stand
the beautiful and rapidly growing villages of Newport and
Covington, divided by the Licking River, which here flows
into the Ohio. When viewed from the the top of the hills
which bound the horizon, this extensive plain is covered
in the central part with a growing city, extending up and
13*

150

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

down the river, with its bustle, and its beautiful houses ;
whilst around are spread fertile fields, and the river is
adorned with boats of various descriptions, from the humble flat boat to the noble steam-boats, which are almost
constantly heaving in sight, rounding to the wharf, or setting out for a distant port.
Cincinnati was founded in 1789. But it was not until
1808, that it began to grow rapidly. At that period the
Government sold the land on which it stands. Fort Washington, erected many years before, stood on this site. In
1826, the population was 16,230; in 1830,26,515; and
in 1831, 28,014. At present, it exceeds 30,000, exclusive
of a floating population of 1,500 or 2,000.
Some of the streets run parallel with the river ; others,
commencing at the river, cross the former at right angles.
Several of these streets are 66 feet wide, and 396 apart.
The houses are generally of brick, and many of them painted white, yellow, or lead colour. The public buildings,
many of which are very beautiful, are a Court-house, four
Markets, one of which is 500 feet in length ; Bazaar, two
Banks, Cincinnati College, Catholic Athenaeum, Medical
College, Mechanic's Institute, two Museums, Hospital and
Lunatic's Asylum, High School, many Hotels, 24 Churches, of which the 2d Presbyterian is very elegant—and the
Unitarian, and some of the others, display much taste.
The plain on which Cincinnati stands extends a mile
back, to the hills which bound it on the North, and along
the river a mile and a half, or two miles. The upper part
of the city extends up to the point where the hills meet
the river, and along the narrow strip of land which intervenes between those hills and the Ohio. It is in this quarter that many boat yards are situated, and where many
flat, keel, and other kinds of boats, are built every year.
There^have been built at this city, no less than one hundred and fifty steam-boats !
The value of the manufactures of this city is very great,
exceeding #2,500,000 annually ! Vast quantities of cabinet work, hats, &c. &c. are here made for exportation.
1. There are ten Foundries, including a Brass and Bell
Foundry, and one for casting type.
2. There are three or four Cotton Factories, and about
fifteen Rolling Mills, and Steam Engine Factories and
Shops.

OHIO.

151

3. There are Jive Breiveries.
4. There is a Button Factory ; and a Steam Coopering
Establishment, where several thousand barrels are made
annually by machinery, propelled by steam.
5. Two Steam Flour Mills, and five or six Steam Saw
Mills.
6. There is one Chemical Laboratory.
There are probably not less than 40 different manufacturing establishments driven by steam power.
The imports, of which dry goods are the principal item,
exceed $5,000,000. The exports, consisting of various
articles of produce, of which pork is the chief; and of manufactures, of which iron articles and cabinet furniture are
the chief, probably exceed the imports in value.
I shall give, in a few words, a summary statement of
those matters which are most important to the stranger.
1. In 1831, the taxable property of this city, consisting
of houses and lands, and merchandise and manufactures,
was valued at #4,206,204, a sum much too low. The
revenue of the city that year was $35,230; and the expenditures $33,858.
2. There are two Banks, and a Savings' Fund Association ; two Museums, very interesting to strangers; and two
Hospitals.
3. There are three Insurance Companies belonging to
the city, and two branches of Insurance Companies at
Hartford, Connecticut.
4. There is a company which supplies the city with
water, which is elevated by steam power from the Ohio.
5. There are several Literary and Scientific Institutions,
of which the Lyceum, Atheneum established by the Catholics, and which is really a college, and cost about $20,000 ;
Medical College, having 7 or 8 Professors ; Academy of
Medicine, and Lane Theological Seminary, are the chief.
6. In 1831 there were 18 public schools, embracing
2,700 scholars, at an expense of $6,610 for Teachers' wages. This city is imitating the noble example of Boston,
in establishing free schools for the whole population. The
number of private schools and academies is great.
7. There are three Library Companies, which have in
all near 10,000 volumes of books.
8. There are 3 daily, 2 semi-weekly, 6 weekly, (four of

152

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

which are religious,) two semi-monthly, two monthly, and
one quarterly (medical) publications—sixteen in all—issued
in this city.
9. There are 34 charitable associations, and 25 religious
societies.
10. There are several Fire Companies, and a large number of fire engines.
11. There are six Presbyterian Churches, five Methodist, four Baptist, two Episcopal, one Lutheran, one Associate, one Catholic, one Unitarian, one Friends' Meeting,
one Swedenborgian, one Jewish Synagogue, one African,
one Christian.
12. In 4 months during 1831, there were issued from
the Cincinnati press 86,000 volumes, of which 20,300
were of original works. In the same time, the periodical
press issued 243,200 printed sheets.
The number of lawyers, physicians, merchants, &c. is
great.
Along the Ohio above Cincinnati, there are many pleasant and flourishing places. The most important are Ripley, Portsmouth, Burlington, Gallipolis, Marietta, and
Steubenville.
RIPLEY is a flourishing place. Several steam-boats have
been built there during the last two years. It is 46 miles
above Cincinnati, and has about 700 inhabitants.
PORTSMOUTH stands on the Ohio at the mouth of the
Scioto, and 103 miles above Cincinnati. The Ohio and
Erie canal commences here. This place is finely situated
for trade. As this canal opens up a channel of intercourse
with New-York, and all the West, a great commission business must eventually be done at this town. It has about
1,000 inhabitants. Five or six steam-boats have been built
here. This town is 45 miles from Chillicothe, and 90
from Columbus. BURLINGTON and GALLIPOLIS are pleasant and growing places, the former 144, and the latter 185
miles above Cincinnati. Gallipolis was originally settled
by a small colony of French, who suffered greatly through
the imposition of speculators, sickness, and other calamities. Many of them left the place through discouragement.
MARIETTA stands on the Ohio bank just above the entrance
of the Muskingum. It is a beautiful place, but exposed to
inundations at very high stages of the river. It has fine

OHIO.

153

schools and seminaries of learning. The population is
about 1,300. There is much fine bottom land in the vicinity of this place, both on the Virginia and Ohio banks of
the river. A number of steam-boats have been built here.
This place is 277 miles, by the river, above Cincinnati.
STEUBENVILLE is a very pleasant and flourishing town 379
miles above Cincinnati by the river, and 60 below Pittsburg by the river, but 38 across the peninsula. It is situated on an extensive alluvial bottom, of sufficient elevation
to be safe from inundations. The country around this
place is fertile, and exports great quantities of flour, whiskey, &c. It contains 3,000 inhabitants. For many years
there has been here a large woollen factory of much celebrity, which has consumed 60,000 pounds of wool annually.
There are three flour mills, one cotton factory, a steam
paper mill, and three or four churches.
There are many beautiful and flourishing towns through
the interior of the state, some of which I shall mention,
beginning with the eastern part. •
N E W LISBON in Columbiana county, CANTON in Stark,
and Wooster in Wayne, have each about 1200 inhabitants,
are places of much business, and centres of large fertile
districts, which will soon have a dense population. Wooster is 124 miles, and New Lisbon 56 miles westward of
Pittsburg.
MASILLON, N E W PHILADELPHIA, COSHOCTON, and N E W -

ARK, situated on the two principal branches of the Muskingum, and through which the Ohio and Erie canal passes,
are flourishing and beautiful places, and will become very
large and important centres of trade for the fertile regions
which surround them.
ZANESVILLE, on the eastern bank of the Muskingum, at
the point where the Licking joins that river from the west,
is a large increasing town of 4,000 inhabitants. It is the
county-town of Muskingum county, and being situated on
a stream which is navigable during several months in the
spring and fall, it possesses great advantages. The falls
in the Muskingum river give fine water power to this
flourishing place, which is employed by several flour-mills,
saw-mills, an oil-mill, a rolling mill, nail factory, and woollen factory. A bridge over the Muskingum connects
Zanesville with West^Zanesville, which stands at the junc-

154

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

tion of the Muskingum and Licking, and one over the latter river unites the town of Putnam with West and East
Zanesville.
LANCASTER, the county town of Fairfield county, 34
miles from Chillicothe, and 28 from Columbus, is situated
in a delightful and very fertile valley, on the head stream
of the Hocking, and has a population of 1,500 inhabitants.
A bluff of great height, and singular appearance, half a
mile north of the town, affords a most admirable prospect
over the town and surrounding country.
CHILLICOTHE, on the west bank of the Scioto, CIRCLEVILLE and COLUMBUS on the east, are very important towns
in the Scioto valley. Chillicothe is the seat of justice for
Ross county, and was once the capital of the state. It has
between 3000 and 4000 inhabitants, and is the centre of a
very fertile region which is watered by the Scioto and the
Paint Creek, which here runs parallel with the river and
falls into it a few miles below the town. There are several
cotton factories, mills, &c. in the neighbourhood. In the
vicinity, on Paint creek, and even on what is now occupied
by this town, formerly stood several ancient tumuli, or
mounds. In levelling one of them for the purpose of erecting a building, many human bones, it is said, were found
in this monument of former, and now unknown generations.
Chillicothe is 45 miles above Portsmouth, and 96 from Cincinnati.
CIRCLEVILLE is 19 miles above Chillicothe, and is a
growing place, which will be much benefitted by the canal.
It is the county town of Pickaway county. Within the
limits of the town are two mounds or tumuli, one is square
and the other circular and gives name to the town.
These monuments are highly interesting. This place has
a population of about 1500 inhabitants.
COLUMBUS, the political capital of the state, is in the centre of Franklin county, and very nearly of the state. It is
112 miles north-east of Cincinnati, 135 miles west of
Wheeling, and 396 from Washington city. It is a beautiful town, occupying a site which in 1812 was covered with
a dense forest. The public buildings are the state-house,
a court-house for the supreme court, a building for the
public offices, a market house, &c. all of brick. The population is near 3000, and constantly increasing. The State

OHIO.

155

Prison, or Penitentiary, is located here. It is poorly conducted for want of a suitable building. A new and excellent building upon an improved plan, is about to be erected.
There is a good asylum for the deaf and dumb at this
place, sustained by legislative aid. The country around
Columbus is very fertile and almost perfectly level. On
the west side of the Scioto, at the distance of a mile, is the
village of Franklinton.
DAYTON, on the Miami, 65 miles from Cincinnati, is a
very flourishing place. Springfield in Clark county,
Hillsboroi in Highland, Mansfield in Richland, Ravenna
in Portage, St. Clairsville in Belmont, TJrbana in Champaign, Athens in Athens county, and many others might
be mentioned as interesting places in the interior of the
state, and most of them, situated in districts of excellent
land.
CLEVELAND, on Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, and at the termination of the Ohio and Erie canal,
is a place of great business and rapidly increasing in population. Lower Sandusky on the Sandusky bay, and
Perrysville and Maumee, at the foot of the rapids in the
Maumee^river, and at the head of sloop and steam-boat
navigation on that river, Huron at the mouth of Huron
river, Grand River', at the mouth of Grand River, may be
mentioned as places on Lake Erie which are destined to be
important.
EDUCATION. This state is setting a noble example, on the
subject of education, to the other states of the Valley of
the Mississippi. Within a few years, each township has
been divided into school districts, according to the provisions of a school act which was adopted by the state. The
following summary of what has been done by public authority to promote education, I have obtained from official
sources, and is of a very recent date.
The number of acres of land set apart by congress, for
schools within Ohio, (including salt reserves, which have
been mostly sold, and the avails appropriated for common
schools) is 678,576, estimated to be worth $1,200,000
Probable number of acres sold is 339,288, payable by
instalments; unsold 339,288, or about one half.
The amount received on account of sales of said land is
$391,420, which has been loaned chiefly to the commis-

156

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

sioners of the canal fund, on an interest of 6 per cent.
The proceeds of all school lands, are to be thus invested.
The amount raised by taxation for the support of common schools, being three-fourths of a mill upon the dollar,
of the taxable property in the state, was, in 1832, about
50,000 dollars.
The total amount at present raised by law, for the support of schools will not educate the whole number of
children more than two months in a year. Not less than
five school examiners are to be appointed in each county,
by the court of common pleas, every two years, who are
to examine the teachers. The manner of distributing the
school money to the teachers is various, as there are
various funds from which it accumulates.
Congress has granted 92,800 acres of public land to this
state for Colleges, Academies, and Universities. Of which,
one township, containing 23,040 acres, very valuable, has
been given to the Miami University at Oxford.
Also, two townships of land have been given to the Ohio
University at Athens,—a quantity of 46,080 acres, but
much inferior in quality to that appropriated to the Miami
University.
There are academies in all the principal towns ; in many
of which the Latin and Greek languages and the mathematics are taught. In Cincinnati, Marietta, Chillicothe,
Steubenville, and some other places, are female seminaries
of much and deserved celebrity. Throughout the state
there is an increasing interest felt on the whole subject of
education. And in a few years the common school system
of Ohio will equal that of New York.
There are five or six colleges in this state in actual
operation, besides other important institutions, which will
be described in the chapter devoted to the Literary Institutions of the Valley of the Mississippi.
GENERAL REMARKS.—To those who desire to emigrate
to the West, this state proffers many inducements.
1. Its climate is healthy, in an eminent degree. All
emigrants, in this and every other part of the Valley, should
be careful not to expose themselves too much at first, and
to keep out of the damp airs of night, especially during the
autumnal season: to wear a sufficient amount of warm

157

OHIO.

apparel, and occupy as speedily as possible comfortable
houses.
2. There are 5,242,221 acres of public land to which
the Indian title has been extinguished; besides 344,613
acres, to which that title has not been extinguished, but
which will soon be, in all probability.*
In almost every
part of the state, land which is new or uncultivated, may
be purchased, either from the government, or from those
who purchased large quantities of public land, which they
are now willing to sell to others. For the convenience of
those who wish to purchase public land, the state has been
divided into eight districts, in each of which is a Land
Office maintained by the General Government, where
lands may be entered and paid for. These offices are at
Steubenville, Marietta, Wooster, Zauesville, Chillicothe,
Cincinnati, Wappakonnetta and Bucyrus. The qualities of
the lands in each district are various. Much good land is]to
be found in all—perhaps most in the last four.
The following is a table of the place of these Land offices, with names of the Registers, and the Receivers of
moneys arising from the sales.
At what place
opened*

Registers.

Receivers,

Marietta
Zanesville
Steubenville
Chillicothe
Cincinnati
Wooster
Wappakonnetta
Bucyrus

Joseph Wood
Thomas Flood
David Hoge
Thomas Scott
P. S. Symmes
Joseph S. Lake
T . B . Van Home
Thos. Gillespie

David C. Skinner
Bernard Van Home
John H. Viers
Isaiah Ingham
Morgan Neville
Samuel Quinby
Robert I. Skinner
Joseph H. Larwell

3. There is no difficulty in purchasing most valuable
farms here, which have from 50 to 100, and some 150
acres, in a good state of cultivation, and having on them
houses, barns, orchards, &c. &c. These houses are not
generally any thing more than plain cabins, as they are
* See the late Report (made to the U. S. Senate, April 16,1832,) by
the Committee on Manufactures.
14

158

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

called ; but yet they will answer the purpose until better
ones can be built. There are thousands of farmers in this
state, as well as in western Pennsylvania and Virginia—a
fact which has already been mentioned—who settled heie
when their families were young, often when they themselves
were just married, and having paid for their quarter of a
section of land (160 acres,) or an eighth (80 acres,) and
raised a family of children, they are now desirous of selling
their improved land for a sum with which they will go
again into the wilderness, either in this state, or farther
west, and buy land enough to give each of their sons, and
perhaps their daughters too, a plantation of 80 or 160
acres. And this they can easily do by selling their present farms at the rate of from five to ten dollars, and (if
near to some town or on the bank of a navigable river, or
along an important public road,) for even a much larger
sum, per acre. With this amount they can purchase much
public or Congress land. It is true they have to begin in
the woods again. But this is nothing to men who are
inured to such labour, and who expect to do nothing but
labour all their days, and to find their happiness in doing so.
Emigrants who can afford to do so, will often, and I
should say, generally, find it to be most pleasant to purchase
farms which are already somewhat cleared and cultivated.,
and which have at least 30 or 40 acres under good fences,
and withal a house which may be made comfortable until a
better one can be built. It is a great trial to eastern families to go at once into the woods, and have to build a house
hastily, and then be much exposed to sickness, in an unfinished and uncomfortable building, in the midst of a deep and
gloomy forest. There is no difficulty in obtaining farms
which are partly cultivated, and which may be had at prices
differing according to location, fertility of soil, extent of
ground cleared, and value of buildings erected. Young and
single men from the East may go at once into the forest,
if they are enterprising and fond of hard labour.
4. Mechanics of all descriptions have work enough to do
in this state; and, if industrious, are certain to do well.—•
This is true of every sort of mechanics, and especially so
of those who are engaged in such trades as are most essential to comfort or business.
5. Travellers will find this state a wide field for pleasant

OHIO.

159

and profitable journeying in the seasons of spring, summer
and autumn. This state abounds in pleasant towns, delightful and ever-varying scenery, along its rivers and main
roads.
6. The history of this state is an interesting one. It
suffered exceedingly from the hostility of the Indians until
the close of the last war. Fort Washington occupied for
many years the spot where Cincinnati now stands. From
that point the armies of Harmar and St. Clair marched to
defeat in 1790 and '91. And from that point Wayne set
out in his campaign which ended so triumphantly in 1794.
During the late war with Great Britain, this state suffered
much. Many of her citizens were in the armies of their
country, and many fell in the attacks upon Fort Meigs, and
i n the battle on the Thames. The north-western part of
this state was then a frontier. For a period of 25 years,
the inhabitants of this state suffered deeply from the attacks
of the savages ; and many a father, mother, and child, suffered a cruel death.
The first permanent settlement in this state was made at
Marietta, by the Rev. Dr. Manasseh Cutler, and General
Rufus Putnam, in 1788. The population at present considerably exceeds 1,000,000, and is rapidly augmenting. In
1790, it was about 3,000 ; in 1810, it was 230,760. This
statement shows the astonishing increase of the population
of this state during 40 years. But great as her population
now is, nothing so much arrests the attention of a traveller
as the great disporportion which there is between the uncultivated and the cultivated portions of the land. There appears, as it were, but a spot here and there of cultivated
ground amid an almost uninterrupted forest. I was much
struck with this circumstance, when I passed from Cincinnati through the central parts of the state, last summer,
taking Lebanon, Springfield, Columbus, Wooster, Canton,
and New Lisbon on my tour. This state might have a population offive millions, and yet not have a very dense population ; and it might have Um millions and yet not be as
densely populated as some parts of Europe.
A large part of the state is settled by emigrants from New
England ; this is particularly true of the northern part.—
The north-eastern part once belonged to Connecticut, and
is sometimes called New Connecticut, but more commonly,
the Western Reserve, which embraces eight counties and

160

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

3,000,000 acres of land, and belonged, originally, by charter from the British government, to the state of Connecticut. After the revolution, that state sold to the general
government the land which she claimed in this state. The
sum which she received as an equivalent constitutes the
foundation of her school fund.

CHAPTER XIV.
INDIANA,

INDIANA is bounded on the north by Michigan Lake and
Michigan Territory; east by Ohio ; south by the Ohio river,
which separates it from Kentucky; and west by Illinois,
from which it is separated, in part, by the Wabash River*
This state extends from N. lat. 37° 48', to 41° 3 6 ' ; and
from W . Ion. 7° 44' to 11° ; its area is about 36,500 square
miles, or 23,360,000 acres.
The Ohio flows along the southern end of this state, in
its course, more than 350 miles.

COUNTIES.

Allen,
Bartholomew,
Boone,
Carroll,
Cass,
Clark,
Clay,
Clinton,
Crawford,
Daviess,
Dearborn,
Decatur,
Delaware,
Dubois,
Elkhart,
Fayette,
Floyd,
Fountain,

1 SlTUATION.

ne
m
s w m
n
n
s
w
nw m
s
s w m
se
s e m
e m
s w m
n
e m
s e
VJ

POPULATION
IN 1830.

COUNTY TOWNS.

996 Fort Wayne,
5,476 Columbus,
621 Thorntown,
1,611 Delphi,
1,161 Logansport,
10,686 Charlestown,
1,616 Bowling Green,
1,423 Frankfort,
3,238 Fredonia,
4,543 Washington,
13,974 Lawrenceburg,
5,887 Greensburg,
2,374 Muncytown,
1,778 Portersville,
935 Pulaski,
9,112 Connersville,
6,361 New Albany,
7,619 Covington,

[ly

TABLE OF COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.

141
41
62
88
113
103
69
122
106
98
55
59
124
68
121
81

INDIANA.

(Table
COUNTIES.

SITUATION.

Franklin,
s e
Gibson,
s w
Greene,
s w m
Hamilton,
m
Harrison,
se
Hancock,
m
Hendricks,
m
Henry,
e m
Jackson,
s m
Jefferson,
se
Jennings,
s em
Johnson,
m
Knox,
w
s m
Lawrence,
Madison,
m
Marion,
m
Martin,
s m
Monroe,
s m
Montgomery,
w m
Morg-an,
m
Orange,
s m
Owen,
w m
Perry,
8
Pike,
8 W
8 W
Posey,
w m
Putnam,
Parke,
w
Randolph,
e
Ripley,
] s em
Rush,
e m
St. Joseph,
n
Scott,
s e
m
Shelby,
Spencer,
s
10
Sullivan,
Switzerland,
s
Tippecanoe,
nwm
Union,
e
Vanderburg,
s w
w
Vermillion,
w
Vigo,
Warren,
w
Warwick^
8 10
Washington,
s m
Wayne,
e
" " T o t a l , 63 Coun ties,

H>1

Continued,)

POPULATION
IN 1830.

|
COUNTY TOWNS.
1

DISTANCE
PROM INDIANAPOLIS.

10,190|Biookville,
-~~
5,418) Princeton,
4,242 Bloomfield,
1,757 jNoblesville,
10,373 Corydon,
1,436 Greenfield,
3,975 Danville,
1
6,497 Newcastle,
4,870 Brownstown,
11,465 Madison,
3,974 Vernon,
4,019 Franklin,
6,525 Vincennes,
9,234 Bedford,
2,238 Andersontown,
7,192 INDIANAPOLIS,
2,010 Mount Pleasant,
6,577 Bloomington,
7,317 Crawfordsville,
5,593 Martinsville,
7,901 Paoli,
4,017 Spencer,
3,363 Rome,
2,475 Petersburg,
6,543 Mount Vernon,
8,262 Greencastle,
7,535 Rockville,
3,912 Winchester,
3,983 Versailles,
9,707 Rushville,
287
3,092 New Lexington,
6,295 Shelbyville,
3,196 Rockport,
4,630 Merom,
7,028 Vevay,
7,187 Lafayette,
7,944 Liberty,
2,611 Evansville,
5,692 Newport,
5,766 Terre Haute,
2,861 Williamsport,
2,877: Boonsville,
13,0641Salem,
18,571 Centreville,
343,031, of whom 3 are si ives.

14*fe

70
141
76
22
124
21
20
49
69
85
64
20
126
73
41
121
51
44
30
96
52
143
119
187
42
68
^97
79
40
89
30
167
115
105
70
77
170
86
83
187
91
63

162

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Several new counties have been added since the Census
of 1830. The following is a list of them :
COUNTIES.

La Porte,
La Grange,
Huntingdon,
Wabash,
Miami,
Grant,

| SITUATION.

nw
ne
nem
n m
n m
m

COUNTY TOWNS.

Michigan.

Miamisport.
Marion.

POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Population.

l a 18013
' 18K)
' 182()
4
183()

5,641
24,524
147,178
343,031

IYLCYGCLSQ

From 1800 to 1810
< 1810 to 1820
« 1820 to 1830

18,879
122,658
194,404

GOVERNMENT.—The Governor is elected for three
years; salary $1000 per annum. Lieutenant Governor is
President of the Senate, and receives $2 per day during
the session of the Legislature.
The Legislature is called the General Assembly of
Indiana, and is composed of a Senate, the members of
which are elected for three years; and a House of Representatives, whose members are elected annually. The
number of the former is at present 30 ; and of the latter
75. Pay of members of both houses $2 a day each.
The Legislature meets annually at Indianapolis, the
capital of the state, on the 1st Monday in December.
JUDICIARY.—The Judiciary power is vested in a
Supreme Court, Circuit Courts, and such other inferior
Courts as the General Assembly may establish. The Supreme Court consists of three Judges. And each of the
Circuit Courts consists of a President and two Associates.
All the judges hold their office for 7 years, if not removed
for improper conduct.
The judges of the Supreme Court are appointed by the
Governor, with the consent of the Senate. The presiding
Judges of the Circuit Courts are appointed by the Legislature ; and the Associates are elected by the people.

INDIANA.

163

There are seven presiding Judges of Circuit Courts. The
Judges of the Supreme and Circuit Courts receive $700
per annum. The Associate Judges receive $2 a day during the Courts.
Face of the country.—The country immediately bordering on the Ohio River,—say a strip of land, of from 15 to
25 miles wide,—extending from the Wabash River to the
Miami, is broken and hilly. The hills along the Ohio may,
with propriety, be called bluffs in many places. When one
has ascended from the river to the summits of these hills,
he finds that the country which lies beyond them is comparatively level, interrupted by deep ravines, and precipitous banks on the water courses. But, after having passed
over some 10 or 15 miles, he finds that the land is generally more level, and continues to become more so, until it
is almost perfectly level. This is the character of fourfifths of the entire surface of the state.
There is what may be called a low mountainous ridge,
extending from the Ohio at Louisville, a little north of west
to the east branch of White River at Hindostan ; thence it
pursues a due west course to the Wabash below Vincennes.
This ridge is very perceptible. It begins in Kentucky,
and is really the cause of the rapids or " falls" in the Ohio
at Louisville. It causes rapids in both branches of White
River, and also in the Wabash, a short distance above the
mouth of White River. This low ridge, although scarcely
perceptible, probably continues across the state of Illinois,
and is seen distinctly in the ledge of rocks at the Grand
Tower, below the entrance of the Kaskaskia.
The northern part of this state is generally level, or
gently undulating. This is also the character of the middie portions of the state.
Although there are no very extensive " prairies" in this
state, yet the Wabash is skirted by many of a limited extent ; and which, in general, possess a fertile soil.
It would be difficult to conceive of a country possessing
a more delightful appearance than this state presents, both
in those parts which are cultivated, and those which are
not. The level, exuberant fields, covered in the summer
with crops of the most luxuriant growth—and the noble
forests, where the hand of cultivation has not yet made an
opening, are both objects which must ever be viewed with
interest by travellers and emigrants.

164

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

This state is quite as level, as a whole, as it is desirable
that land for cultivation should be.
Soil,—This state may be divided into three divisions,
for convenience, in treating of its soil.
1. The first section embraces the southern end of the
state, from Illinois to Ohio. In width it may be described
as embracing the two tiers or lines of counties which lie
between the Ohio River and the East Fork of White
River, which rises, in some of its eastern streams, towards
the Ohio line. Resides, it includes a line of counties next
to them on the north, and through which the East Fork of
White River flows in the lower part of its course, after
leaving Bartholomew county. So that this portion of the
state may be said to comprehend the three tiers of counties which lie parallel with the Ohio River. The first of
these tiers, beginning at the Wabash at its junction with
the Ohio, consists of Posey, Vanderburg, Warrick, Spencer, Perry, Crawford, Harrison, Floyd, Clark, Jefferson,
Switzerland, and Dearborn—in all twelve counties.
They all border on the Ohio River. The second tier
consists of Gibson, Pike, Dubois, Orange, Washington,
and Scott—and does not extend to the Ohio line ; but end3
at the west side of Jefferson, one of the counties of the first
tier. This second tier embraces six counties. The third
tier consists of Knox, (of which Vincennes is the chief
town,) Daviess, Martin, Lawrence, Jackson, Jennings, and
Ripley—in all seven counties.
The general character of this portion of the state, embraces 25 counties, as it regards soil, is upon the whole
good. There are some excellent counties, and parts of
counties—and some of a very different description. There
are but few counties out of the whole number, which have
not a considerable extent of good land. I suppose that in
majority, the good greatly predominates over the indifferent. There is but little, comparatively, which is unfit for
cultivation. The second rate, and even the third rate
land would be considered fine land in many of the Atlantic
states. In these counties, beech may be said to predominate, interspersed with oak, ash, poplar, sugar tree, walnut,
and sycamore on the bottoms, &c. &c. This is, as I remarked before, the most broken and hilly portion of the

INDIANA.

165

state. The soil is, in general, durable ; and improves in
productiveness by proper cultivation.
2. The second grand section of this state is a zone of
about sixty or seventy miles in width, stretching across
the state, from Illinois to Ohio, and lying immediately
north of the first named division. It occupies the entire
central portion of the State, and extends about 20 miles
South, and 40 miles north of Indianapolis. It embraces
about forty counties in six successive tiers. Their names
are as follows—Sullivan, Greene, Monroe, Bartholomew,
Decatur, Franklin ; Vigo, Clay, Owen, Morgan, Johnson,
Shelby, Rush, Fayette, Union ; Vermillion, Parke, Putnam, Hendricks, Marion, (of which Indianapolis is the
chief town, and capital of the state,) Hancock, Henry,
Wayne ; Warren, Fountain, Montgomery, Boone, Hamilton, Madison, Delaware, Randolph ; Tippecanoe, Clinton,
Carroll, Cass, Wabash, Allen.
There is not a finer district of country of the same extent in the United States, than that which has been described above. Almost every part of it posseses a fine soil,
covered in its natural state with heavy forests of oak, poplar, walnut, hickory, ash, sugar-maple, beech, wild cherry,
honey locust, coffee tree, hackberry, cucumber tree, linden,
&c. &c. with dogwood, iron wood, spice bush, and other
small underwood. The Wabash River is skirted on each
side by small prairies, in this and the former division.
3. The third division embraces all that portion of the
state which lies north of the last named division—in other
words, between the tier of counties through which the
Wabash runs, and the northern boundary of the state.
With the exception of a strip of 10 miles in width, which
lies along the northern line of the state, and which embraces the following counties—La Porte, St. Joseph, Elkhart, and La Grange,—the whole of tHis region, embracing
near 3,000,000 of acres, belongs to the Putawatomies, a
tribe of Indians, who will soon sell their lands, it is expected, and remove to the west of the Mississippi. The
Miamis, another tribe of Indians, own a portion of this
state south of the Wabash, but of small extent. The whole
extent of land in this state, to which the Indian title is not
extinguished—in 1832, was 3,681,040 acres.
A large portion of the third great division of this state

166

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

is excellent land. There is, however, a much greater
amount of flat and wet land, than in the other portions of
the state. There is a considerable number of ponds and
marshes, many of which, perhaps, may be drained. But
the wet and marshy part is inconsiderable, when compared
with what is entirely fit for cultivation. The Kankakee
river, which is a branch of the Illinois, rising in this state,
runs through a country abounding in ponds and marshes.
The new counties on the northern boundary, possess in
general an excellent soil, especially those through which
the St. Joseph's runs, in the sweep which it makes down
into this state.
Rivers.—The Ohio flows along the whole of the Southern end of the state,—a distance, by its winding course, of
353 miles. It receives only a few inconsiderable streams
from this state, save the noble Wabash on the western
boundary.
1 shall only mention the chief of these little
streams, beginning on the eastern line. They are White
Water, Laughery, Silver Creek, Black Creek, Indian
Creek, Blue River, Anderson's Creek, and Pigeon Creek.
The Wabash is the great river of this state. It rises in
the western part of Ohio, and runs first a north-west course ;
it then turns to the south-west, and pursues this course
until it reaches the western side of Indiana, receiving in
that part of its course Little River, Eel, and Tippecanoe
from the north * and the Salamanic, Mississinewa, Wild
,
Cat, and Wea rivers, from the south-east. After reaching
the vicinity of the. western boundary of the state, the
Wabash, a few miles above Covington, begins to pursue a
course almost due south, until it reaches a point a few
miles below Terre Haute ; whence, pursuing the same
direction, it becomes the boundary betwreen Illinois and
Indiana, to its junction with the Ohio. In this part of its
course, it receives from the West the Vermillion, Embarras, Bon Pas, and Little Wabash; and from the east,
Sugar Creek, Racoon Creek, White River, Patoka River,
and Sligo Creek, with many other and smaller streams.
The White River drains all the central part of this state,
and with its branches is invaluable, as a channel for trade.
It has two great branches, viz.: East Fork, and West
Fork. Each of these has several large confluents. The
former has Graham's Fork, Sand, Clifty, and Flat Rock

INDIANA.

167

Creeks, Blue River, &c. The latter has White Lick, Eel
River, and many others.
In the north-western part of the state, Piekamink and
Kankakee rivers rise, and flow into the Illinois. Whilst
on the north-east, the Maumee may be said to begin at
Fort Wayne, at the junction of two branches,—the St.
Joseph's from Michigan, and the St Mary's which rises in
Ohio. The branches unite at Fort Wayne, in Allen
county; and the united stream, the Maumee, (or Miami
of the Lake, as it is still called by many,) flows away
north-eastwardly through a part of Ohio, and falls into
Lake Erie, within the limits of Michigan Territory.
The St. Joseph's River/ (not the one just named) a
considerable stream, enters this state on the north from
Michigan Territory ; and turning again towards the northwest, it falls into Lake Michigan, within the limits of the
Territory in which it rises.
The Wabash is navigable for steam-boats up to Lafayette, a distance of more than 370 miles from the Ohio.
They have even ascended 25 miles further to Delphi. The
White River has not yet been much navigated by steamboats. One or two have been up as high as Indianapolis.
But hundreds of flat boats annually descend the Wabash
and White Rivers. Probably no other river, of an equal
size, in our country, drains so large and important a valley
as the Wabash and its branches do. And certainly, no
river of the same size, is navigable as great a distance by
steam and flat boats, as this river is. The trade of this
river is becoming immense. In 1831, during the period
which elapsed from the 5th of March to the 16th of April,
54 steam-boats arrived and departed at and from Vincennes alone. It is also estimated, that at least one thousand flat boats entered the Ohio from the Wabash, in the
same time. One-tenth of these flat boats, it is calculated,
were loaded with pork, at the rate of 300 barrels to a boat.
Another tenth are said to have been loaded with lard,
cattle, horses, oats, corn meal, & c . ; and the remainder
* It is to be regretted that two rivers should be called by the name of
St. Joseph's, which rise in the same part of Michigan Territory. The
one flowing south enters the Maumee—and the other west, and enters
Lake Michigan.

168

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

with corn in the ear. The value of produce and stock
sent annually to market, from the Valley of the Wabash,
by flat boats, all of which pass down this river, must be
now near $1,000,000.
In February, March, and April of 1832, there were 60
arrivals of steam-boats at Lafayette !
Canals and Roads*—This state has undertaken to construct a canal, from the Wabash to the Maumee, called
the Wabash and Erie Canal. This canal is now commenced.
In 1824 Congress made a donation of public lands to the
state of Indiana, for the purpose of enabling that state to
construct this canal. That donation being considered insufficient, Congress granted, on the 2d of March, 1827,
each alternate section of the public lands within five miles
of the proposed line, upon the condition that the work
should be commenced within five, and completed within
twenty years. This grant was accepted. The route was
surveyed, and the canal located. The lands granted were
surveyed and selected. A Board of Canal Commissioners
has been appointed—and the work is now actually commenced.
The route of this canal is as follows : It commences on
the Wabash at or near Lafayette, and continues along the
banks of that river up to the entrance of the Little River ;
thence up that river to the Aboite River, across that stream,
and up another branch of the Little River to its sources—
thence across the summit, seven miles to the junction of
the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's, at Fort Wayne. The
water needed on the summit level, will be supplied by a
feeder 14 miles long from the St. Joseph's. From Fort
Wayne, the canal will descend along the Maumee to the
town of Maumee, at the lower end of the rapids of that
river. Should the Miami Canal in Ohio, be continued to
the Maumee, as it is probable that it will be, it will intersect the Wabash and Erie Canal near Fort Defiance on
the Maumee, about 50 miles above the rapids.
It will at once be perceived, that a part of the Wabash
and Erie Canal will be within the state of Ohio. That
state has not yet undertaken to make her part of this canal,
but will no doubt do so, as soon she has well advanced in
her other and greater improvements.

INDIANA.

169

This entire canal will be about 202 miles long, of which
127 are in Indiana, and 75 in Ohio* The expense of
making the part within the limits of Indiana, including
locks aad feeders, was estimated by the United States' Engineer, at $1,081,970, or about $9,000 per mile.
That portion of the grant of public land for this canal,
made by Congress, which lies in this state, being each
alternate section of public land for five miles on each side,
through which the canal passes, amounts to 355,200 acres.
Of these 264,000 have been selected and set apart by the
state, and 41,000 acres sold for #71,000. The remainder,
91,200 acres, are within the lands of the Miami Indians,
and which will belong to the state as soon as their title to
them shall have been extinguished by the government of
the United States.
This canal must be completed v/ithin fifteen years, by
the requirements of the act of Congress.
The importance of this canal is obvious to all; and its
construction will be remarkably easy, there being but few
physical difficulties to be overcome.
The public lands granted to the state for this purpose,
are valued at $756,750. The balance of the sum required,
will be raised by loans ; the first of which has recently
been taken by eastern capitalists.
Roads.—A state road is now making from Indianapolis
to Michigan Territory, called the Michigan road. It will
terminate on the St. Joseph's.
An act has been passed to allow a company to make a
rail-road from Indianapolis to Louisville.
The national road will pass through Indianapolis from
Columbus to St. Louis. When completed it will be of
great advantage to this state.
Lines of stages are established during the summer, from
Madison and Cincinnati to Indianapolis, and on several
other roads. The roads in this state are good in summer,
but bad in winter, on account of their being entirely of clay,
except the corderoy roads, as they are called, that is, roads
made over swampy ground by laying small round logs or
saplings close to each other across the road, so as to form
really a bridge. Such roads are always rough.
Productions.—The productions of this state are similar
to those of Ohio. Corn, wheat, rye, buck-wheat, oats, flax,
15

170

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

&c. &c. are staples. The garden vegetables are the same
as those of that state. Potatoes, common and sweet, turnips, beets, parsnips, cabbages, pumpkins, all sorts of
melons, &c. grow abundantly here. Vast quantities of
corn are raised in this state, and sent down the Ohio and
Mississippi. Hogs are raised in great numbers, for a foreign market. Many thousands of cattle, hogs and horses,
are driven to the East from this state ; and thousands of
barrels of pork and beef are annually sent to New-Orleans.
Bees-wax and feathers are sent in great quantities from
this state to the East. Apples, pears, peaches, &c. are
becoming abundant. The plum and other wild fruits are
abundant here. Hemp and tobacco are cultivated to a
considerable extent in this state. Large quantities of ginseng are dug and refined in this state, and sent to China
by way of the eastern cities.
Towns. INDIANAPOLIS is the capital of the state. It
is situated on the left or east bank of White River, about a
mile from the river. Twelve years ago the place where
this beautiful town now stands was a forest, and the land
belonged to the Indians. Even now the lofty forest, like
a wall, surrounds the town at the distance of about a mile,,
The streets of this town are wide, and named after the different states of the Union. The site is almost perfectly
level. Congress granted this state 2,560 acres for the
seat of Government. The sale of a part of that land will
enable the state to erect a splendid state house, together
with the other requisite public buildings. There is a fine
court house, for the courts of the county and of the state.
There are several churches here. The population is now
quite 1,400 and constantly increasing. Improvements are
steadily going forward. The people are intelligent, moral
and agreeable. Considering how recently this place has
been settled, it is remarkable that it has so very pleasant
a society. The same remark may be made respecting all
the large towns of this state.
Along the Ohio are many beautiful villages and towns
springing up, which are destined to become important
places of business. The chief of them, are Lawrenceburg,
Aurora, Vevay, Madison, JefTersonville, Albany, Fredonia,
Troy, Evansville and Mount Vernon.
LAWRENCEBURG is a place of a good deal of business*

INDIANA.

171

It stands a short distance below the mouth of the Miami.
Its situation is so low as to expose it to inundation when
the spring floods are uncommonly high. Vevay is a pleasant town, and was founded by a colony of Swiss in 1804,
who have successfully cultivated the grape. It has about
200 houses. Madison has a beautiful situation 90 miles
by the river below Cincinnati, and 60 above Louisville.
It has a population of about 1,500. The society here is
pleasant, intelligent and moral. It is a place of much
business, and is destined to be an important place. The
public buildings are a court house, bank, three or four
churches, &c. Jeffersonville stands opposite to Louisville. It is a pleasant little place of about 500 inhabitants.
The State Prison is located -here. Albany stands below
the falls, and about five miles below Louisville. It is the
largest town in the state, and bids fair to be the most important as a commercial and manufacturing place. It is
here that many of the steam-boats on the Mississippi come
to undergo repairs. Several steam-boats have been built
here. Several of those manufactures which are connected
with the building and repairing of steam-boats, are carried
on at this place. The population of this town is near
5000.
On the Wabash are many flourishing towns growing
up. I shall notice the most important, in their order,
beginning at the mouth of that river.
NEW-HARMONY, on the left or eastern bank of the river
60 miles above its mouth, is surrounded by a fine rich and
heavily timbered country, interspersed with small fertile
prairies.
It was settled in 1814 by a religious sect of
Germans called Harmonites, under the guidance and control of George Rapp, in whose name all the property was
held. They erected 100 large and substantial buildings,
and converted the wilderness into a garden. In 1824
Robert Owen of New-Lanark, in Scotland, bought the
entire place and lands connected with it for $190,000, and
established a community upon his " social system," and
" new views of society :" about 700 individuals joined him.
But soon discord arose among the members, and the
" social principle" was abandoned. The place is now
flourishing upon the " individual principle." Vincennes
is situated on the east bank of the Wabash, 142 miles

172

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

above the mouth. It was founded by the French in 1690.
It is, next to Cahokia, Kaskaskia and Detroit, the oldest
town in the Valley of the Mississippi. It is contiguous to
prairies of considerable extent. The country around is
level and of a light soil generally. It possesses much
trade, and is probably increasing in population at present.
It has been considered rather unhealthy for several years
past. In this respect it is improving. The situation is
one of great beauty. The houses are about 300 or 400 in
number, and the population is near 2000. Terre Haute,
120 miles by the river, above Vincennes, on the east bank
of the river, is a flourishing place, and bids fair to be one
of the most important on the river. Lafayette is 110
miles above Terre Haute, and on the same side of the
river. It is a new and very flourishing town of 300 or
400 houses. Five years ago this region was a wilderness*
It is now a place of great business. Delphi is 25 miles
above Lafayette, on the same side of the river, a new and
flourishing town. Logansport is 18 miles above Delphi,
at the junction of the Wabash and Eel rivers. It is a
growing place. I might mention several more towns which
are springing up, as if by magic, along this beautiful river,
if the narrow limits of this work allowed it.
Throughout the whole state, beautiful and flourishing
villages are growing up in every organized county.
Manufactures.
The manufactures of this state are not
numerous. The pursuits of the people are chiefly agricultural and mercantile. A few cotton factories have been
erected along the principal rivers. A considerable number of steam saw-mills and grist-mills have been erected,
and are now erecting, in various parts of the state, and
especially along the Ohio. But little iron and salt are yet
manufactured in this state. A furnace which was once in
operation on Driftwood fork of the East branch of Whito
river, has ceased for some time.
Education,
This state does not yet enjoy a system of
common schools supported by public authority. The constitution of the state contains the following important provision respecting general education. " It shall be the
duty of the general assembly, as soon as circumstances
will permit, to provide by law, for a general system of
education, ascending in regular gradation, from township

INDIANA.

173

schools to a state University) wherein tuition shall be
gratis, and equally open to all." In the absence of a
public school system, the people of almost every neighbourhood of sufficient population have made efforts to have
a school, have erected school houses, and sustain a school
during a part of a year. It is to be regretted, however,
that the schools are often taught by incompetent teachers.
But the public mind is awaking to the importance of this
subject, and it will not be long, I trust, until this state will
follow the noble example of Ohio.
One thirty-sixth part of the public lands in this state
has been appropriated by Congress for common schools,
amounting, (including the lands appropriated to schools in
Clark's grant,) to 556,184 acres. Besides this, two townships, or 46,080 acres have been given for a college.
There are several good academies, male and female, established at Madison, Indianapolis, and other of the largest
towns.
There is a College under the patronage of the state at
Bloomington.
GENERAL REMARKS.—1. No state in the west presents
greater inducements to those who desire to emigrate to
that part of our country than Indiana does. There are
12,699,096 acres of public land to which the Indian claim
has been extinguished ; and 3,681,040 acres to which the
Indian title will soon be extinguished. This land may be
purchased for the small sum of $1 25 per acre, and a vast
proportion of it is of the richest quality. And many partially cultivated farms may be bought in the older settlements, at the rate of from 3 or 4 to 10 or 15 dollars, per
acre, according to situation, extent cleared and fenced,
and the value of the buildings on them.
This state is divided into six districts for the convenience
of those who desire to purchase public land, viz. Jeffersonville, Vincennes, Indianapolis, Crawfordsviile, Le Port,
and Fort Wayne. The following is a statement of the
names of the land offices, registers, and of the receivers
of the public money.

15*

174
Land Offices.

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
Registers.

Receivers.

James P. Drake,
Indianapolis, Arthur St. Clair,
Fort Wayne, Thos. Breckenridge, 1 John Spencer,
John D. Wolverton,
John Badollet,
Vincennes,
JeffersonWilliam Lewis,
Jas. G. Read,
vilie,
CrawfordsSamuel Milroy,
, James T. Pollock,
ville.
Le Port,
i David Robb,
1 John M. Lemon.
2. Almost every part of this state is easy of access to
emigrants who remove to it early in the spring or late in
autumn, for then the Wabash is navigable by steam-boats
up to Lafayette and Delphi, so that the emigrant may be
readily carried into that part of the state which is contiguous to the Wabash or Ohio without difficulty. Should the
emigrant removing to this state, prefer going to it by land
rather than by water conveyance, he will find the roads
good in the latter part of spring, and generally during the
whole of summer and autumn.
3. The climate of this state is salubrious. Along the
wide and level alluvial bottoms, there is usually more or
less of bilious fever, in some one or other of its varieties,
during the autumnal months. But if emigrants would
be careful of their health, they would not in general suffer
much. There are several causes of sickness among new
settlers in this and all other, western states. 1. They
generally have open and inconvenient houses during the
first few years. They are often negligent on this point,
preferring to clear off their ground, and put up a barn, before they erect a comfortable house. Often they are
compelled, through the necessity of labouring hard to provide food for their families, to turn their attention away
from providing a house, until a year or two passes away.
In the meanwhile, living in a house which is open to the
damp and unhealthy atmosphere of autumnal nights, and
noxious exhalations by day, it would be miraculous if they
escaped sickness. I have a thousand times wondered that
they have as good health as they usually have. 2. They
often live on food which is not of a wholesome kind,
through difficulty of obtaining better. 3. They frequently

INDIANA.

175

labour much harder, and expose themselves more, than
they ought. I know they will plead the necessity of their
circumstances. But it is very unwise, for the purpose of
gaining a little at the present, to run the risk, by overexertion, of losing health and perhaps life. 4. Emigrants
when becoming unwell, and perhaps admonished for days
of approaching sickness, often neglect to send for a physician, or perhaps find great difficulty in obtaining one in a
new and sparse settlement, until the disease becomes
seated in the system.
It is very far from being true that the majority of emigrants to this state from the East must pass through a
period of sickness as a seasoning. The greater part of
those who take proper care of their health, undergo no
disease peculiar to this climate, more certainly than those
who have long resided in the state.
4. It is most convenient and economical for the emigrant
to arrive in this, and all the other states in the upper part
of the Valley of the Mississippi, in the early part of the
spring season. For by doing so, he may be able even if
he settles down in the woods, to prepare and plant a few
acres with corn, which will yield him in the fall, food for
the winter and next summer, and by the fall he may have
more land cleared and ready to be sown with wheat or rye.
Besides, the ground which produced corn in the summer
may be sown with winter grain, so that he is then very
sure of being able to go on well. For he may spend the
first summer in taking care of his few acres of corn, which
will give him but little trouble ; in putting a fence around
i t ; in building or rather finishing the house which he,
with the help of his neighbours, put up during the first
week after his arrival; and in clearing a few more acres
of land. When his winter grain has been sown and the
corn gathered in the autumn, he has but little to do in the
winter, save taking his corn to mill, providing firewood
and taking care of the two or three horses, five or six cows,
and 10 or 15 hogs which he brought with him, or bought
in the neighbourhood. Or he may deaden some of the
forest trees around, and so prepare the way for further
clearings. In this way he may plant the next year a large
field of corn, which is the great and sure and most valuable
production in this state, for bread stuffs, and he will have

176

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

a harvest of small grain, and an abundance of corn in the
second autumn, together with a great increase of.cattle,
hogs and poultry, if he chooses to have it so.
But if he arrives in the autumn he must come in the
early portion of it, if he intends during that season to erect
a house, clear a few acres, and sow a field of wheat. And
then he must wait for his own bread-stuffs, until the succeeding mid-summer or rather autumn; living meanwhile
on bought wheat or corn and other provisions. This is
expensive, and what is more, the eastern emigrant who
settles down on a piece of land in the woods, as I have just
described, much more endangers his health by coming in
the fall, than by arriving in very early spring, I have
seldom seen families remove from Western Pennsylvania
to Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky, &c. &c. in the fall; but almost
always in the spring. Most certainly, however, families
which remove from the north of James river to the southern states of the Valley, should not think of going thither
until late in autumn, whether convenient or not. For
otherwise they will run a great risk of being sick during
the first summer, and perhaps of losing life.
5. The greater part of the inhabitants of Indiana are
emigrants from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and states north of
Pennsylvania. A considerable portion of them came from
Kentucky and Western Virginia. A large number of
them came hither single young men, and first opened a
little farm and built a house, and returned to their fathers,
and married, and removed to the "new settlements,'5 and
took up their permanent abode : or they found wives among
the settlers around them. This was perhaps the most
common course. And although such women have not the
refinement and education of eastern women, they are far
better qualified to endure the very laborious and hard life
of the wife of an emigrant who sets out in the world with
about money enough to buy 80 acres of land, two horses,
two or three cows, a few hogs and sheep, and a wagon, a
plough, and a harrow, &c. &c 3 which-will" cost, in all,
about 350 or 400 dollars, and which, excepting the land
(if it be public or Congress land,) he may have to buy on.
a partial credit.
N. B. The reader must constantly remember that public lands can only be purchased for cash payments. It is

INDIANA.

177

now $1,25 an acre, unless sold at auction; but there are
no credits.
6. Good mechanics of almost all descriptions will find
profitable employment in this state.
7. School Maste?*s from the East, or young men who
are qualified to teach schools, would do well to come to
this state, as well as to Ohio and other western states.
They would do good, lay up, in two or three years, money
enough to buy a quarter, or half of a quarter of section of
land, and commence farming. Or they will find it to be
for their interest to teach school all their lives, which is,
or ought to be, a most honourable business, and will not
prevent them from carrying on farming to such an extent
as to support a family.
8. The history of this state, down until the close of the
last war in 1815, is a mournful.chapter in the chronicles of
our country. Many of its brave and enterprising people
moistened its soil with their blood. The defeat of St.
Clair in 1791, and the blood-bought but decisive victory
of Wayne, in 1794, occurred on its eastern border; and
the battles of Tippecanoe and Missisinewa, within its
limits, took place at aymore recent period. Their details
are too fresh in the recollection of every reader of his
country's history, to need repetition here. In 1816, this
State was formally received into the Union of the states*
Its prosperity, ever since, has been rapid.

178

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI,

CHAPTER XV,
MICHIGAN.
MICHIGAN. The peninsula which is called by this name
lies immediately north of Ohio and Indiana. It is bounded
on the west, north, and east by lakes. A more minute
description of its boundary would give Lake Michigan as
constituting the western boundary for 260 miles ; Huron
on the north-east and east 250 miles; St. Clair river,
Lake St. Clair, Detroit river, and Lake Erie on the east
for 13&> miles; the state of Ohio 80 and Indiana 110 miles,
on the south.
This peninsula extends from N. lat. 41° 35', to N . lat.
45° 20' ; andifr6m?5° 20' to 9° 53' W. Ion. from Washington. Its area is 38,000 square miles, or 24,320,000
acres.
TABLE OF THE COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS,
COUNTIES.

Wayne,
Monroe,
Oakland,
Lenawee,
McComb,
St. Clair,
Washtenaw,

SITUATION.

se j
se
s em
s m i
e
e m
s em

St. Joseph,

s w

Cass,
Berrien,
Van Buren,
Michilim ackinaw,

s w
s w
s w
n

Total,

POPULATION
IN 1830.

6,781
3,187
4,9 i l
1,491
2,413
1,114
4,042

Distance
from
Detroit.

COUNTY TOWNS.
DETROIT CITY,

Monroe,
Pontiac,
Tecumseh,
Mount Clemens,
St. Clair,
Ann Arbor,
White Pigeon )
1,313
Prairie,
£
919 Edwardsburg",
325 Niles
5
877 Mackinac,
27,378

36
26
63
26
59
42
169
174
I

321

JPdoe 264.

179

MICHIGAN*

The following counties lie west of Lake Michigan, and
in the District of Huron, which is attached, at present, to
the Territory of Michigan :
COUNTIES.

Brown,
Crawford,
Chippewa,
Iowa,

POPULATION
IN 1830.

n
w
w
w

COUNTY TOWNS.

Dist'ce
from
Detroit

1,356
692
626
1,587

SITUATION.

Menomonie,
Prairie du Chien,
Sault de Ste. Marie,
Helena.

598
356

w
m
m
m

4,261

Total population of Michigan 31,639, of whom 32 are
slaves.
The following new counties have been made since 1830 :
COUNTIES.

Lapeer,
Sanilac,
Shiwassee,
Saginaw,
Hillsdale,
Jackson,
Ingham,
Branch,
Calhoun,
Eaton,
Kalamazoo,
Barry,
Allegan,
Ottawa,
Oceana,
Montcalm,
Isabella,
Gratiot,
Midland,
Gladwin,
Aranac,
Kent,
Ionia,
Clinton,

SITUATION. |COUNTY TOWNS.

1

em
ne
m
nm

Byron.
Saginaw.

§ m

i
1
[

sm
sm
s
swm
swm
w
sw
sw
sw
w
w m
nw
m
nm
nm
ne
sw
m
m

J Montcalm.

180

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

GOVERNMENT.—-Governor, appointed by the President—
salary, $2,000 ; Secretary, do. salary $1,000. The Legislative Council is elected by the people; they continue in
office two years. Their present number is 13.
- Judiciary.—There are four Judges, who hold courts in
the several counties—salary of each, $1,200. They are
appointed by the President with the consent of the Senate.
DETROIT is the present Capital of this Territory.
In 1820, the population of Michigan, including the Huron
District, was 8856 ; in 1830, including the same District, it
was 31,639. But exclusive of Huron, the peninsula of Michigan, to which the name of Michigan is commonly confined, contained in 1830, 27,378 inhabitants. The number
is now not short of 45,000 ; and it is rapidly increasing, by
reason of the great tide of emigration which has been setting into that territory during the last two years.
Face of the Country.-—The southern part of this territory is very level, or gently undulating. The northern
part is more uneven. Along the shore of Huron there are,
in places, very high bluffs; and along the east shore of Lake
Michigan are, in many places, immense hills of pure sand
of from fifty to several hundred feet in height, which have
been blown up by the almost constant western winds, sweeping over the lake and the sandy margin on its eastern side.
There are some tracts of land in the south part of Michigan, which are covered with small lakes and marshes. But
the extent of such land is wholly inconsiderable, when compared with that which is admirably fit for cultivation.
Much of the land which now appears marshy will become
dry and good land, when cleared of the heavy forests which
now exclude the rays of the sun. And in many places the
wet lands can be drained with but little trouble or expense.
Parallel with Detroit River, and at a distance of a mile in
some parts, there is swampy ground of considerable width,
which it is believed may be drained.
It is far from being true, that there is much land in this
territory which is of a dead level. It is almost invariably
moderately uneven or undulating. The dividing table land,
which extends from the south to the north, throughout its
entire length, is more elevated and uneven than it has, by
some, been represented to be. It is a most beautifully
variegated part of the country. As to surface, this whole

MICHIGAN.

181

table land, and I may say the entire interior, is much such
a country as one sees in passing from Philadelphia to Bristol or Trenton.
Soil*—The soil of a very large portion of this territory
is uncommonly fertile. In the southern half especially,
the land is of a rich soil, and of astonishing depth in many
parts.
To one who has seen only the comparatively shallow soil
of New-England, it is matter of great surprise to see, in
some of the southern counties of this peninsula, rich alluvial lands of great extent, whose exuberant, vegetable
mould of a black appearance, is from three to six feet in
depth, and which seems to be almost inexhaustible. And
although there is far from being an equal extent of such
rich soil in the northern half,—inasmuch as it is more broken, and in some places rugged from large hills and bluffs,
with deep intervening ravines, particularly on the margin
of Lake Huron, and in others low and swampy—yet there
is a good proportion of fine land.
It is the testimony of gentlemen who have travelled much
in this territory, that it is not surpassed, in point of fertility
of soil, by any other portion of the West. One of the surveyors who have been employed by the general Government in surveying the public lands of Michigan, told me
that after having seen by far the greater part of it, he was
decidedly of opinion that it possesses a greater proportion
of the very best land, than any other part of the West
which he had seen. Mr. Cass also speaks of it as a country, taken as a whole, of surpassing fertility and beauty.
The prairies of this territory are of very limited extent,
compared with those of Illinois. They are, however, very
valuable ; and in the summer are covered with grass of
uncommon height. Almost the entire surface of this territory is covered with heavy forests of oak, walnut, sugarmaple, ash, poplar, hickory, beech, &c. similar to those of
Ohio and Indiana, excepting that in the northern part
there is a great abundance of pine, of a most valuable species for ship timber.
Rivers*—This peninsula abounds in rivers and small
streams. From the limited extent of the country, it is impossible that any of these rivers can be very long. They
rise from the considerably elevated, but comparatively level
16

182

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

middle land, and flow, in every direction, into the lakes
which border this peninsula on three sides. Beginning on
the south-east, and proceeding along the lakes, I shall mention the most important. The first is the Maumee, which
rises, by some of its upper branches, in this territory, and
by others, in Ohio—and, after having flowed the greater
part of its course in the latter state, it falls into Lake Erie
within this territory, by an expanded mouth, or rather
gulf. This is a very important stream, on account of the
facilities which it, in connexion with the Wabash, will
afford for inland navigation, by means of an intervening
canal. This river is navigable for steam-boats up to the
rapids, at Maumee and Perrysburg, in Ohio.
The next rivers which occur in order, are Raisin and
Huron, both falling into the western end of Lake E r i c
They are both navigable for boats, in the lower part of
their courses. Their sources interlock with those of Grand
River, which, flowing in an opposite course, falls into Lake
Michigan. A few miles below Detroit, is the pleasant
little stream Rouge. Clinton River is the only important
one which falls into the Lake St. Clair. Into St. Clair
River fall the Belle, Pine, and Black rivers. The Saginaw, a very considerable and important river running
northward, falls into the large1 Saginaw Bay, which is a
part of Lake Huron. Many other, but smaller streams,
fall into the same lake, such as the Thunder, two Sandys,
Sheboigon, &c. Those which fall into Lake Michigan,
are Traverse, Ottawa, Betsey's, Manistic, Pentwater,
White, Maskegon, Grand, Kallemazoo, and St. Joseph's.
Of these, the last named three are by far the most important streams.
The Grand River is the largest on the peninsula. Its
whole course is about 150 miles. For 50 miles from the
lake, it is navigable for sloops and steam-boats. At that
point, there are rapids which interrupt the navigation.
These rapids afford fine water power for manufacturing
purposes. In their vicinity are salt springs, and gypsum
in vast quantities, and of an excellent quality. At the
foot of these falls is a town, which bids fair to become a
place of much commerce. Above these rapids there is
boat navigation for 50 miles more. There are not less than
six or eight large branches to this river. The country
through which it flows possesses great fertility. It is be-

MICHIGAN.

183

lieved that it will be an easy matter to make a canal from
the sources of the Grand River to the Huron River, and
so unite Michigan and Erie Lakes.
The Kallemazoo is a considerable stream, which falls
into Lake Michigan, to the south of Grand River.
The St. Joseph's River is a large stream, and empties
into Lake Michigan in the south-western angle of the territory, with a wide mouth. It is navigable for sloops to
the rapids. Above these it has a still further extent of
boat navigation. It flows through a very fertile region,
variegated by prairies arid high forests. The country on
this river is not surpassed, in point of beauty and fertility,
by any in the Union. The sources of this river interlock
with those of the St. Joseph's of the Maumee. Newbury port is a flourishing town at the mouth of this river.
Niles is n flourish ino- town also on this river. A steamboat trades regularly between it and Chicago, in Illinois.
Productions.—They are the same as those of Ohio and
the state of New York generally. Corn grows most luxuriantly here. Wheat, rye, oats, barley, buckwheat, potatoes, pumpkins, melons, and all sorts of garden vegetables,
which grow in the middle states, find a congenial soil here.
The luxuriant growth of all kinds of the cultivated vegetables, and also of the grasses, is such as to astonish those
who have seen only the productions of the eastern states.
Toivns.—There are but few towns which have yet attained any considerable size.
DETROIT is the capital of the territory. It stands on
Detroit River, 18 miles above its entrance into Lake Erie,
and about 9 below Lake St. Clair. The site of this city
is beautiful, being a level plain stretching out from the
river to a great extent. Detroit was founded by the French
in 1670. Its growth for a long period was slow, being
chiefly a trading post. Since it came into the possession
of the Americans in 1796, it has increased more rapidly,
and especially within the last four or five years. Its population is now above 3000, of whom about one-third are of
French origin.
There are five fine streets running parallel with the
river, and six or eight others crossing them at right angles,
running out from the river. As the Detroit River here
runs towards the west, the city of course faces the south,

184

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

or rather the south-east. The public buildings are a
State House, Market, Court House, Churches, &c. This
place is one of great and increasing trade, and will become
a large city.
*
The American population of this place, embraces a large
number of very interesting families. I have seen few
places which have a finer society.
The Detroit River, or Strait, (which the word Detroit
means) is a beautiful sheet of water, of from one to three miles
wide, deep, and running at the rate of two and a half miles an
hour. The country along its banks is extremely beautiful.
The French settlers on both sides occupy farms of narrow
fronts and extending far back. Their houses stand near
the road which runs along the river ; so that, being contiguous to each other, they have the appearance of one
half of a continued street.
Mackinac.—This village, of 100 houses, stands on the
south side of the island of Mackinac, or Michilimackinac,
as it is commonly written, in the straits which lead from
Lake Huron into Lake Michigan. The town stands in a
beautiful cove, and possesses a good harbour. Above it,
on an elevation of 150 feet, stands Fort Mackinac ; and on
an eminence, still higher and further back, is a battery.
These fortifications are of great strength.
And this
island, which is 9 miles in circumference, is a place of
great importance, as commanding the entrance into Lake
Michigan.
Mackinac, like Detroit, is a place of great trade with
the Indians. It is here that hundreds and thousands of
them come annually to dispose of their peltry, and receive
their annual payment from the United States, through the
government agents. It is the centre of the operations of
the north-west branch of the American Fur Company.
There is here a flourishing Mission School, for the instruction of Indian children, supported by the American Board
of Commissioners for Foreign Missions. Old Mackinac
stood immediate!}- south of the island on the extreme point
of the peninsula.
Monroe and Frcnchtown on the Raisin ; Broumstoum,
near the mouth of Detroit River; Pontiac, Ann Arbor,
Byron, Montcalm in the interior; and Nilcs, Newburyport, on the St. Joseph's of the lake, and many others

MICHIGAN.

185

might be mentioned as growing and important towns and
villages.
The settlements in this Territory are chiefly confined to
the south-eastern part of it. Of late, settlements have
been made in the south-western angle, on the St. Joseph's,
Kallemazoo and Grand Rivers. Several new counties have
been recently laid out, in that and the south part of the
Territory.
Of the 24,320,000 acres of land in this peninsula, the
Indian title to 16,393,420 had been extinguished, and their
claim to 7,926,580 was not extinguished, June 30, 1828It is expected that it will not be long until they will sell
their remaining claims to the U. States, and remove to
lands which will be assigned to them beyond the Mississippi. The Indians who live here are Ottawas, Miamiss
Putawatomies, Wyandotts and Chippeways.
Education.—Congress has granted to this territory onethirty-sixth part of the public lands, amounting to 543,893
acres, for common schools^ and 46,080 for a UniversitySchools are established and maintained by private efforts,
a part of the year, in almost all the neighbourhoods which
have a sufficient population. Many Sunday Schools, with
Libraries, have been established lately. It is expected that
eventually there will be a good system of common schools
established by public authority. There are a few Academies.
Congress has granted 10,000 acres of land for the erection of the government buildings of this territory.
GENERAL REMARKS. 1. No other country on earth has
such admirable natural advantages for trade and commerce,
as this peninsula possesses. In all directions, streams flow
From it into the lakes, which almost surround it. Many
of these streams, as we have seen, are navigable for boats.
And canals can easily be made between their interlocking
sources.
2. This territory, on account of the fertility of its soil,
and the number and variety of its productions, as well as
the facility with which they may be sent to market, is well
worthy the attention of those who are about to emigrate
to the West. It is a country of abundant fruits; orchards
grow admirably. It is also the land for flocks and herds*
16*

186

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Cattle, hogs, sheep, horses, &c. are easily reared, and find
a ready market.
3. The wild game of this territory is similar to that of
Indiana, and the adjoining, unsettled parts of Ohio. Deer,
bears, beavers, otters, wolves, foxes, &c. are numerous.
Geese, ducks, and other aquatic fowls, are exceedingly
abundant. Wild turkies, pheasants, prairie-hens, &c. &c.
are to be found in great numbers, and afford delicious food
to the settlers in the autumn and winter.
4. There is a vast extent of public land for sale in this
territory, which may be purchased at $1 25 an acre.
There are two public Land Offices in this territory, viz:
Land Offices.

Registers.

Receive?^.

Jon'n. Kearsley
Detroit
John Biddle
White Pigeon Prairie Abraham Edwards Thbs. C. Sheldon
5. The climate of this peninsula is very fine. It is that
of the greater part of New-York and New-England as far
north as the middle of Maine. Detroit is nearly on the
same parallel with Boston, that is about 42° 20', and
Mackinac the most extreme northern point, is in about
45° 48'. The climate of the southern part is like that of
the southern and middle parts of New- York} while the
northern part resembles, in its cold and protracted winters,
the middle parts of Maine, and the northern parts of Vermont and New-York. The lakes which bound this peninsula on three sides exert much influence in moderating the
extremes of heat and cold. The summers and autumns
of this territory are delightful. The latter especially, are
very mild and of long continuance. The springs are considerably later than those of Ohio and Indiana.
On some of the extended alluvial bottoms, which border
the rivers in the southern part of this territory, in the latter part of summer, and in the autumn, bilious fevers
sometimes prevail, as in the other western states. The
emigrant must take care not to expose himself at those
seasons, if he can avoid it, and live temperately and
comfortably.
6. The extent of the lakes which are contiguous to this

MICHIGAN.

187

peninsula is as follows. Lake Erie is 230 miles long, and
50 miles in its greatest width, but averaging more than
35 miles, and extending from S. W. to N. E. It is not
so deep a lake as Ontario. Lake St. Clair* is, nearly circular, and is about 20 miles in diameter. It is connected
with Lake Erie by Detroit River, which is 27 miles long,
and from one to three wide, and from 25 to 30 feet deep.
Lake Huron is about 220 miles long, with an average
width of 90. It is connected with Lake St. Clair by St.
Clair River, which is 35 miles long, and from 25 to 30 feet
deep, and has a rapid current. Lake Michigan is 270
miles long, by about 50 in mean width. It is connected
with Huron by a strait of about eight miles in width,
through which a gentle current constantly sets into the
latter lake. In the eastern entrance of that strait lies
Michilimackinac Island.
It will be at once perceived, what great advantages this
territory has in point of navigable facilities. There is
now a considerable number of schooners and sloops on
Lake Erie and the upper lakes. This number is probably
about 120 ; whilst there are 21 steam-boats on Erie alone,
some of which occasionally visit Lakes Huron and Michigan. Seven of these boats constitute a daily line from
Buffalo in New-York to Detroit. A boat has been built
recently for Lake Michigan, and a second is now building
to constitute a line of packets from Buffalo in New-York,
to Chicago in Illinois. In a few years there will be a
dozen on that lake and Huron, and the merchandize from
New-York, for the whole region on and beyond Michigan
lake, will be brought in steam-boats from Buffalo and other
places on Lake Erie. The Hudson and Erie canal, will
greatly increase the trade of Michigan Territory. Even
now vast quantities of pork, beef, flour, corn, feathers,
beeswax, honey, skins, &e. &c. are shipped from this
peninsula for New-York, and other eastern markets.
7. Emigrants from the East who desire to settle in
Michigan will find it easy to remove to it, by taking a
canal boat at Albany for Buffalo. This is a very economical mode of removing. From Buffalo they can go in a
* St. Clair Lake is shallow, and does not admit vessels drawing more
than nine feet water.

188

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

steam-boat to Detroit, a voyage of 330 miles, and made
usually in from 36 to 48 hours, for a small sum, if they
take a deck passage. I have seen a family of four or five
persons, and having two wagon loads of stuff, make this
voyage for twenty dollars. The price in the cabin, at
present, is eight dollars, for each grown person. Those
emigrants who wish to remove to the southern and southwestern parts of Michigan, instead of going to Detroit,
ought to land at Sandusky, or the mouth of the Maumee
River, and go then by land.
8. The history of this territory may be given in a few
words. It was visited by French traders as early as 1640.
Detroit was settled about 1670. In 1763 this country was
ceded by France to Great Britain. In 1783 it was ceded
by the latter power to the United States, but was not given
up until 1796. The surrender of Detroit, and the defeat
and massacre of our troops at the river Raisin, constitute
a melancholy portion of the history of the war of 1812-'15.
In 1805, a territorial government was organized, which
still continues. In a year or two it will no doubt become
a state.

189

KENTUCKY.

CHAPTER XVI.
KENTUCKY.
KENTUCKY is bounded on the north by the Ohio river,
which separates it from the states of Illinois, Indiana, and
Ohio; east by Western Virginia; south by Tennessee;
and west by the Mississippi, which separates fit from the
state of Missouri. The greatest length is about 400 miles,
and its area 40,500 square miles, or 25,920,000 acres.
It lies between N . lat. 36° 30', and 39° 0 8 ' ; and W.
long. 5°, and 12° 25'.
TABLE OF THE COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.
COUNTIES.

Adair,
Allen,
Anderson,
Barren,
Bath,
Boone,
Bourbon,
Bracken,
Breckenridge,
Butler,
Bullitt,
Caldwell,
Callaway,
Campbell,
Casey,
Christian,
Clarke,

Clay,
Cumberlandj
Daviess,
Edmondson,

Estill,

SITUA-

j POPULA- 1
TION
COUNTY TOWNS.

TION. J IN 1830. 1
5 m
8,217 Columbia,

s
6,485
m
4,520
s wm 15,079
e m 8,799
n
9,075
n e m 18,436
n
6,518
w m 7,345
s wm 3,058
n w m 5,642
w
8,324
5,164
S IV
n
9,883
m
4,342
s w 12,684
m 13,051
s e ' 3,548
8,624
s
5,209
wm
Is wm 1 2,642
1 e m [ 4,618

Distance
from
1 Frankfort.

Scottsville,
Lawrenceburg,
Glasgow,
Owingsyille,
Burlington,
Paris,
Augusta,
Hardinsburg,
Morgantown,
Shepherdsville,
Princeton,
Wadesboro',
Newport,
Liberty,
1
Hopkinsville, \
Winchester,
Manchester,
Burkesville,
Owensboro',
Brownsville,
1
[Irvine,

9i
151
12
126
73
72
43
73
118
141
74
229
262
79
66
206
45
115
119
150
138
71

190

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

(Table continued.)
COUNTIES.

Fayette,
Fleming,
Floyd,
Franklin,
Gallatin,
Garrard,
Grant,
Graves,
Grayson,
Greene,
Greenup,
Hancock,
Hardin,
Harlan,
Harrison,
Hart,
Henderson,
Henry,
Hickman,
Hopkins,
Jefferson,
Jessamine,
Knox,
Laurel,
Lawrence,
Lewis,
Lincoln,
Livingston,
Logan,
Madison,
Mason,
McCracken,
Meade,
Mercer,
Monroe,
Montgomery,
Morgan,

Distance
from
Frankfort.
m j 25,098 Lexington,
25~~
n e 13,499 Flemingsburg,
79
e
4,347 Prestonburg,
142
w
9,254 FKANKFORT,
n
6,674 Port William,
57
m 11,871 Lancaster,
52
n m 2,986 Williamstown,
44
s w l 2,504 May field,
284
w m 3,880 Litchfield,
110
m 13,138 Greensburg,
90
ne
5,852 Greenupsburg,
132
n m 1,515 Hawsville,
130
w m 12,849 EKzabethtown,
80
s e
2,929 Mon't Pleasant,
168
nm 13,234 Gyntliiana,
38
s w m 5,191 Mumfordsville,
105
w
6,659 Henderson,
180
j n m 11,387 New Castle,
37
s w 5,198 Columbus,
:308
w
6,763 Madisonville,
200
\n w m23,979 Louisville,
52
m ; 9,960 Nicholasville,
37
s e | 4,313 Barboursville,
122
se m 2,206 London,
102
e
3,900 Louisa,
\
127
n e 5,229 Clarksburg,
!
96
m 11,002 Stanford,
51
to
5,971 Salem,
245
s 13,012 Russelville,
!
171
m 18,751 Richmond,
50
n 16,919 Washington,
63
w
1,297 Wilmington,
282
w m 4,131 .Brandenburg,
90
m 17,694 Harrodsburg,
30
s
5,340 Tompkinsville,
144
m 10,240 Mount Sterling,
60
e m 2,857 West Liberty,
107

POPULASlTUATION
COUNTY TOWNS.
|
i TION. J IN 1 8 3 0 . J

191

KENTUCKY.

{Table
COUNTIES.

Continued.)

SlTUA- | PoPULA- 1
TION.
TION
COUNTY TOWNSI
1 IN 1830. 1

Distance
from
Frankfort.

Muhlenburg,
Nelson,
Nicholas,
Ohio,
Oldham,
Owen,
Pendleton,
Perry,
Pike,
Pulaski,
Rockcastle,
Russel,
Scott,
Shelby,
Simpson,
Spencer,
Todd,

swrm 5,340 jGreenville,
|
177
w m 14,932 Bardstown,
55
n e m 8,834 ' Carlisle,
|
58
w m 4,715 Hartford,
154
n m 9,588 Westport,
44
n m 5,786 Owentown,
28
n
3,863 Falmouth,
60
se
3,330 Perry C. H.
148
e
2,677 Pikeville,
165
s m 9,500 Somerset,
85
s e m 2,865 Mount Vernon,
73
s m 3,879 Jamestown,
109
n m 14,677 Georgetown,
17
n m 19,030 Shelbyville,
21
s
5,813 Franklin,
165
m ! 6,812 Taylorsville, !
35
s
8,680 Elkton,
!
186
s w 5,916 Cadiz,
226
Trigg,
Union,
w
4,764 ,Morganfield,
205
Warren,
\s w m 10,949 Bowling Green.
145
Washington,
m 19,017 Springfield,
50
Wayne,
s
8,685 Monticello,
110
Whiteley,
s e j 3,806 Whiteley C. H.
130
Woodford,
m 112,273 1 Versailles,
\
13
Total, 83 Counties,
|687,917, of whom 165,213 are
slaves, 4,917 free coloured persons, and 517,787 whites.
POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Population.

In 1790, about 73,677
1800,
< 220,959
6
1810,
406,511
1820,
< 564,317
6
1830,
687,917

Increase*

From 1790 to
6
1800 <
< 1810 <
6
1820 <

1800,
1810,
1820,
1830,

147,282
185,552
157,806
123,600

Executive Government. Governor, term of office four
years—salary $2,000 per annum; Lieutenant Governor

192

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

$4 per day as president of the senate : Secretary of state
$750 ; Auditor, Register, and Treasurer, each $1,500.
The Legislature consists of a Senate and House of Representatives, styled the General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Kentucky.
The members of the former are
chosen for 4 years; those of the latter annually. The
senate consists of 38 members; and the house of representatives of 100. The members of both houses receive
$2,00 per day during the session of the legislature.
Judiciary.
The court of Appeals consists of a Chief
Justice and two other Judges : salary of each is $1,500.
Circuit Courts. The state is divided into 16 judicial districts for holding circuit courts. There is a Judge for each
circuit, who has jurisdiction of law cases over $50, and of
chancery cases over 5 £ , and holds three terms a year in
each county of his circuit. The salary of the Judges of
the circuit courts is $1000 per annum. County Courts
are also held by three or more justices of the peace.
Their jurisdiction is over inferior suits. They hear
appeals from the decision of single justices.
Face of the country. The south-eastern portion of this
state borders upon the Allegheny range of mountains, some
of the spurs and detached ridges of which descend for a
considerable distance into it. That part of the state is
consequently of a mountainous character, with lofty eminences and deep ravines, and valleys between them, affording
landscape views of uncommon boldness and picturesqueness. Along the Ohio River, and extending from 10 to
20 miles in different places from it, are the " Ohio Hills,"
parallel with that beautiful stream. These hills are often
high, generally gracefully rounded and conical, with narrow vales and bottoms around their bases. They give to
that portion of the state, through which they extend, a
very rough appearance. They are covered with lofty
forests, and have often a good soil on their sides and summits. The alluvial bottoms between them and the Ohio,
and along the streams which fall into that river, are of the
richest kind.
Rut the great expanse of land in this state which
stretches from north-east to the south-west, between the
mountainous and hilly portions on the south-eastern, and
north-western sides above described, is in general beauti-

KENTUCKY.

193

fully undulating or rolling. In the southern part, on the
waters of the Green and its branches, and towards the
Tennessee boundary, this extended vale, if I may so term
it, is designated by the title of barrens,—a most deceptive
word. For the country is far from being poor ; it is generally second or third rate land; much of it has a productive soil. It is very thinly wooded, and covered in the
summer season with high grass growing amid the sparse
and short oak timber. But the country lying north-east
of those barrens, and constituting the northern half of the
wide and beautiful vale of Kentucky, and which is watered
by the Licking, Kentucky, and Salt Rivers, and their
numerous branches, is really the garden of this state.
This tract of land is about 100 miles in one direction, by
50 in another, and exceeds in beauty, fertility of soil, and
amenity of landscape, perhaps any other portion of the
West of equal extent. The substratum of this section, and
indeed of a great part of Kentucky, is limestone.
Black walnut, cherry, honey locust, buck eye, paw-paw,
sugar tree, mulberry, elm, ash, hawthorn, coffee tree,
yellow poplar, together with grape vines of an uncommon
size, generally indicate that the soil is of a most prolific
kind. Numerous streams flow through this region, and
springs of water of great beauty are frequent. The cane
brakes which existed throughout it as an underwood, when
it was first settled, have disappeared, and are succeeded
by grass and the may-apple, and other vegetables which
grow on the richest soils. In this section of the state are
hundreds of the finest farms, with stately and elegant mansions, the abodes of wealth, and intelligence.
Soil and Productions. There is a great extent of excellent land in this state, as I have already intimated. There
is also a considerable portion of land on the Ohio hills on
the west; the mountains on the east; and the " knobs" of
the "barrens" which can never be cultivated, on account
of its roughness of surface, and sterility of soil. The
general fertility of this state is well known.
The productions are maize or indian corn, wheat, rye,
buckwheat, oats, hemp, tobacco, and all the vegetables of
the middle states, in great abundance. Cotton is raised
for domestic use in many of the southern counties; but
little for exportation.
17

194

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Corn, wheat, hemp and tobacco, are grand staples in
this state. Vast quantities of corn in the ear, and corn
meal, flour, fruits, fresh and dried, whiskey, cider, cotton
bagging and bale ropes, bacon, pickled pork, butter, cheese,
honey, feathers, bees-wax, salted beef, &e. are annually
sent to New Orleans and other towns in the southern part
of the Valley, or in the steam-boats to the upper part
of it.
Great numbers of cattle, hogs and horses are every
year driven to the eastern and southern markets. I possess no recent data, by which to calculate the value of
these exportations. In 1828, there passed the turnpike
gate at the Cumberland Gap, an amount of live stock valued at $1,167,302. In 1829, incomplete reports of the
exports, gave the sum of $2,780,000.
Manufactures,—The
manufactures of this state are
rapidly increasing. Salt in considerable quantities is made.
In 1830, there were $160,000 invested in this manufacture, and 137,350 bushels were made. Iron is manufactured in several counties. Hemp is manufactured into
cotton bagging, bale ropes, cordage, &c. Many other
articles are extensively manufactured. The domestic or
family manufactures of this state are very valuable. Every
farmer manufactures many of the articles of clothing worn
by his family.
Rivers,—The Big Sandy, Little Sandy, Licking, Kentucky, Salt, Green, Cumberland, and Tennessee, are
rivers which flow into the Ohio within the limits of this
state. Of these the Licking is navigable for boats 70 or
80 miles.
The Kentucky is navigable for flat boats 150 miles, and
for small steam-boats to Frankfort. It falls into the Ohio
at Port William, 77 miles above Louisville. Salt River
is navigable 100 miles, and is 100 yards wide at its mouth.
Green River is boatable 200 miles, and is navigable by
one of its branches—the Barren River—for steam-boats
to Bowling Green. It has many branches. The Cumberland rises in the eastern part of the state, flows south into
Tennessee, and returns again into this state, and empties
into the Ohio, 59 miles above the junction of the latter
with the Mississippi. It is 600 miles long, and navigable
for boats 400 or 500. Steam-boats of the largest class run

KENTUCKY.

195

yp to Nashville during several months of the year. The
Tennessee is a river of Tennessee state. It runs but a
short distance in this state, and falls into the Ohio, eleven
miles below the mouth of the Cumberland.
The rivers which flow from this state are generally
rapid streams, running in deep channels, with perpendicular, and in many placesr very high banks of rock. They
are liable to great and sudden floods. The scenery on
their banks is exceedingly picturesque.
The Ohio flows along the north and north-western line
of this state for nearly 700 miles—and the Mississippi
between 40 and 50.
Roads.—There are good roads leading to every important place in the state. And numerous lines of stages run
in the summer from Lexington, as a centre, in every
direction,—to Nashville, Cumberland Gap, and to the
southern states ; to Louisville, Cincinnati, Maysville, <&c.
<fcc. The facilities for travelling are abundant. A rail
road is projected from Lexington to Louisville, and a fine
turnpike from the same place to Maysville, is completed.
The only canal in the state is the important one around
the falls in the Ohio at Louisville, which is about two
miles long, sufficiently deep to admit the largest steamboats when the river is high enough for them to run ; it
has 4 locks, overcomes a fall of 22 feet, and cost about
$730,000.
Towns.—FRANKFORT, the capital of the state, is situated in north latitude 38° 48^5 and west longitude 7° 48'.
It stands on the right or northern bank of the Kentucky
River, 60 miles above its entrance into the Ohio. It is
situated on a beautiful bottom, surrounded by very elevated
hills, which give the place a very picturesque appearance.
The banks of the river are two or three hundred feet high,
and almost perpendicular. A bridge connects South Frankfort with Frankfort. There are several factories for the manufacture of hemp and cotton here. Steam-boats run from
this place to Louisville, Cincinnati, and other places on the
Ohio, during the vernal and autumnal portions of the year,
when the waters are high. The State House is one of the
finest buildings of the kind in the United States. It is
built of the most beautiful materials, The other public

196

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

buildings are the Penitentiary, which contains more than
a hundred convicts, and is conducted on the most approved
plan,—-a Court House, and three or four Churches. The
population is about 2,000 ; and the society of the place is
polished, intelligent, and hospitable.
LEXINGTON is situated 25 miles south-east of Frankfort,
in one of the most beautiful regions on the globe. In
every direction extends a very fertile country, covered with
elegant villas, cultivated fields, and lofty forests. A branch
of the Elkhorn runs through the suburbs. This town was
named by some hunters, who were encamped on the spot
when the report of the battle of Lexington, in its progress
through the western wilds, reached their ears.
The streets of this town are wide and handsome, and, many of the houses are very beautiful. The public buildings
are the Court House, Market, Univerity, Masonic Hall,
United States' Bank, eleven Churches, and the State Lunatic Asylum, which contains many patients, under excellent
treatment. There are three or four factories for spinning
and weaving wool; five or six for cotton ; and several for
making machines. In 1830, 1,000,000 yards of cotton
bagging, and 2,000,000 pounds of bale rope, and other
cordage, were manufactured here.
The environs of this place are represented in an accompanying map of the town. The inhabitants of this place
are distinguished for their elegant and cordial hospitality,
their intelligence, and public spirit. The several learned
professions here embrace much talent. Very many strangers from the lower part of the Valley of the Mississippi,
here spend their summers ; whilst many travellers from the
East every year, spend much time at the excellent hotels
of this place. The population is between six and seven
thousand.
LOUISVILLE, at the head of the Falls or Rapids of the
Ohio, is the great commercial emporium of this state. It
is 132 (commonly said to be 150) miles, by the river, below Cincinnati ; 52 miles from Frankfort, 74 from Lexington, 180 from Nashville,* 1,448, by the river,above NewOrleans, and 590 miles from Washington City. It faces
the north ; the Ohio running at this point nearly due west.
It stands on a vast alluvial bottom, which, ascending from
the lower bank, stretches out in every direction from the

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KENTUCKY.

197

river. The Bear Grass, a considerable stream, falls into
the Ohio in the upper part of the city. There are several
streets running parallel with the river, and others crossing
them at right angles. A vast and increasing amount of
business is done here every year. Excepting when the
river is frozen up, steam-boats arrive and depart daily on
the upper Ohio. Shippingsport and Portland, two villages
separated by the canal, and about two miles below Louisville, are really the port of this city below the falls. Hundreds of steam-boat arrivals and departures occur every
year. Before the canal was built, goods and passengers
from the Mississippi and the lower Ohio, were landed at
these villages, and brought up to the city by land. This
caused an immense factory business to be done here. But
now, all steam-boats which can run on the Ohio, may pass
through the canal; so that boats will hereafter come up to
the Louisville wharf and receive their freights, and on their
return land their cargoes at the same place.
The public places here are the Court House, Market, 6
or 8 Churches, High School, United States' Bank, and a
Marine Hospital. There is a Cotton Factory, Iron Foundry, and 5 or 6 Steam Mills. In 1800 there were 600 inhabitants; 1820, 4,012; and 1830, 10,336. At present it
is more than 13,000. I know no place in the West which
is increasing more rapidly than Louisville. It is a great
thoroughfare for the Valley of the Ohio. Thousands of
flat boats arrive here every year from the rivers which
flow into the upper Ohio. And hundreds of steam-boats
arrive from every part of the Valley of the Mississippi.
The vast amount of business done along the wharves of this
city astonishes every traveller from the East.
The position of Louisville is about lat. 38° 18' north, and
long. 8° 42' west from Washington. The surrounding
region possesses great fertility. The climate is generally
salubrious. In August and September, bilious fevers sometimes prevail to a considerable degree. The accompanying map of Louisville and its environs, will give the reader
a good idea of it.
MAYSVILLE, on the Ohio, 60 miles above Cincinnati, is a
place of great business. It is a thoroughfare for the upper
part of the state. Great quantities of merchandize arrive
here by steam and other boats from the East; and exports
17*

198

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

of flour, tobacco, corn, &c. <fec. of great value, are made
from this place for the upper and lower towns in the Valley.
The population is near 3000. A turnpike road has just
been made from this place to Lexington, 75 miles distant.
Besides Louisville and Maysville, the other important
towns on the Ohio, as one decends, are Greenupsburg, Augusta, Newport, and Covington, (opposite to Cincinnati,)
Port William, (at the mouth of the Kentucky,) Owenboro\
Henderson, Smithland, (immediately below the entrance
of the Cumberland,) and Paducah, at the entrance of the
Tennessee river.
In the interior of the state, there are the following flourishing and important towns, most of which are county
towns. Their distance from Frankfort is given in the list
of counties in the beginning of this chapter. Commencing in the eastern part, and proceedings west, we find
Flemingsburg, Washington, Paris, Georgetown, Harrodsburg, Versailles, Bardstown, Shelbyville,
Russelville,
Bowling Green, Princeton, Glasgow, Elizabethtown, <fyc.
<fyc. Besides these, there are not less than 50 or 60 growing villages in different parts of the state, which are the
centres of populous neighbourhoods.
Education.—There
is no public system of common
schools. Every neighbourhood has supported a school or
*not, at the option of the people. There are few neighbourhoods where schools have not been maintained some portion
of time. But this important interest has been greatly neglected. At present, a much greater feeling is awaking. It
was ascertained in 1830, that a very large number of children are not receiving an education. It is hoped that the
Legislature of the state will soon devise a system of common school instruction, whose benefits will be felt in every
part of the commonwealth. There are Academies in many
of the important towns, in some of which the classics and
mathematics are taught. Female schools, of a high character, are established in several places. There are also
six Colleges in operation in this state.
Mineral Springs.—The Olympian Springs, 47 miles east
of Lexington; Harrodsburg Spring; and Big Bone Lick
Springs, 20 miles below Cincinnati, are much frequented
by invalids every summer. They possess different medicinal qualities. And visiters at them enjoy fine accommodations for health and pleasure.

KENTUCKY.

199

Curiosities.—There are numerous Caves in this state ;
some of which, as, for instance, what is called Mammoth
Cave, in Edmondson county, are of great extent. Some of
them have earth impregnated with nitre, from which, during the last war, it is said 400.000 pounds of saltpetre
were manufactured. At the Big Bone Lick, bones of prodigious size have been found, which belonged to races of
animals which are believed to be now extinct.
Many skeletons have been found in caves in this state.
Many mounds, erected by the aboriginal inhabitants, are
also found.
In some cases, streams of considerable size run wholly
under ground, for some distance. Near to Bowling Green,
there is a mill under an immense rock, just where a branch
of the Barren River flows forth from its subterranean course.
This state abounds in astonishing natural curiosities, and in
the finest landscapes.
GENERAL REMARKS.—1. As a general remark, it maybe
said that this state has a delightful climate,—less warm in
summer, and more cold in winter, than any one would suppose, who does not consider the great altitude of its middle
and eastern parts.
2. There is much good land in this state which is not
cultivated. A population of 5,000,000 might find abundant
room within the limits of this state. Emigrants from the
East may find much land for sale here, either in an uncultivated state, or already partially cultivated ; and for very
reasonable prices, varying according to circumstances from
3 or 4 dollars to 20 per acre.
3. This state is a delightful region for the traveller, who
journeys for pleasure, to visit in the spring, summer, and
fall seasons, especially in the two last. The roads, although
not generally turnpikes, are then good ; the scenery is fine ;
and the entertainment at the public houses is liberal, cordial, and often sumptuous.
4. The Kentucky character is a very peculiar one. It
is a compound of high-mindedness, self-confidence bordering on boastfulness, enthusiastic ardour, courage, frankness,
sincerity, and unbounded hospitality. Honour is every
thing. Their admiration of their noble country, and all its
productions, is excessive. No man is more fascinating than
a well-bred, and noble-minded, virtuous Kentuckian.

200

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

5. Emigrants from New-England and states north of the
Potomac who design to settle in Kentucky, will remove
thither by way of the New-York canal, Lake Erie, Erie
and Ohio canal, and then descend the Ohio River to such
point as will be most convenient; or they will remove by
the Pennsylvania canals and roads to Pittsburg or Wheeling, and thence descend the Ohio in boats. Those who remove from Virginia and North Carolina will enter Kentucky by the roads which lead into it from the East, of
which there are several. Foreigners will come in the
cheapest manner, by way of New Orleans, and thence up to
Louisville, or such other point as they choose, by the steamboats.
6. The early history of this state is the most wonderful
chapter in the annals of our nation. The adventures of
Daniel Boone, Harrod, Logan, Ray, Butler, Johnson, and
others, are unparalleled in the history of any other times.
From 1770 to 1795, when the treaty at Greenville was
made by General Wayne, the inhabitants of this state
literally lived in the constant anticipation of Indian attacks. ^Mahyi, very many of them, fell either in the field
of battle, O'T in their corn-fields and houses, by the hands
of savage ••foes.; .>. '•:- * \
7. The country now called Kentucky, once belonged by
charter to Virginia. It was visited by a Mr. Finley, from
North Carolina, in 1767 ; and again, by Daniel Boone, in
1769. The first permanent settlement was made in 1774,
at Harrodsburg. In 1787, not a single Post-office had been
established. The first newspaper printed in Kentucky,
was issued August 28th, 1787, on a demi sheet, in Lexington, by Mr. John Bradford, and entitled the " Kentucky
Gazette." No other paper was then printed nearer than
500 miles. Kentucky became a state in 1793, and is the
oldest state in the West.
8. Boone was a man of temperate habits, erect, and
vigorous in his movements, even in his latest years.—About the year 1800, he removed to Missouri; and ended
his long and eventful life, in September 1820, at the house
of his son, Mr. Nathan Boone; and was buried beside the
remains of his wife, on a bluffof Tuque Creek, Montgomery
county, about two miles from the Missouri River.

jraga

J?6.

201

TENNESSEE.

CHAPTER XVII.
TENNESSEE.
TENESSEE is bounded on the north by Kentucky and
Virginia; east by North Carolina; south by Georgia,
Alabama and Mississippi ; and west by the Mississippi
river, which separates it from Arkansas and Missouri;
extending from N. lat. 35° to 36° 40'; and from W. Ion.
4° 12' to 13° 14'. The mean length from east to west is
about 400 miles, and its mean width is near 108; having
an area of 40,200 miles, or 25,728,000 acres.
TABLE OF COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.
EASTERN TENNESSEE.
COUNTIES.

Anderson,
Bledsoe,
Blounf,
Claiborne,
Campbell,
Carter,
Cocke,
Grainger,
Greene,
Hamilton,
Hawkins,
Jefferson,
Knox,
Marion,
Monroe,
Morgan,
McMinn,
Rhea,
Roane,
Sevier,
Sullivan,
Washington,

SITUATION.

POPULATION
IN 1830.

n em
e
se
n
n
ne
e
em

5,310
4,648
11,028
8,470
5,110
6,414
6,017
10,066
14,410
2,276
13,683
11,801
14,498
5,508
13,708
2,582
14,460
8,186
11,341
5,717
10,073
10,994

e>

s em
ne
e
e n
s
se
n
s em
em
| e m
e
ne
e

Total, 22 Counties,

|

COUNTY TOWNS.

Clinton,
Pikeville,
Maryville,
Tazewell,
Jacksonville,
Elizabethtown,
Newport,
Rutledge,
Greenville,
Hamilton, C. H .
Rogers ville,
Dandridge,
Knoxville,
Jaspar,
Madisonville,
Montgomery,
Athens,
Washington,
Kingston,
Sevier, C. H .
Blountville,
Uonesborough,

Distance
from
Nashville.
195
109
196
243
215
316
247
232
273
148
264
229
199
114
168
46
153
129
1
159
225
306
[
298

196,300, of whom 17,887 areslaves.

202

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

{Table

continued.)

WESTERN TENNESSEE.
COUNTIES.

SITUATION, I

Bedford,
Carroll,
Davidson,
Dickson,
Dyer,
Fayette,
Fentress,
Franklin,
Giles,
Gibson,
Hickman,
Hardeman,
Hardin,
Haywood,
Henry,
Henderson,
Humphreys,
Jackson,
Lincoln,
Lawrence,
Maury,
Montgomery,
Madison,
McNairy,
Obion,
i
Overton,
Perry,
Rutherford,
Robertson,
Shelby,
Smith,
Sumner,
Stuart,
Tipton,
Warren,
White,
Williamson,
Wilson,
Wayne,
Weekly,
Total, 40 countie)S

m
w
m
w m
w
s m
n
s
s
w
m
s w
s w
w
nw
w m
ID m
n
s
s
m
n
w
s
n ID
n
wm
m
n
s w
n
n
n w
w
m
m
nm
nm
s
nw

POPULAT I O N IN

COUNTY T O W N S .

Distance
from
Nashville.
52
109

1830.
30,386 1 Shelbyville,
9,397
Huntingdon,
28,122 NASHVILLE,
7,265 Char lotte,
40
Dyersburg,
1,904
168
8,652 Somerville,
184
2,748 Jamestown,
131
82
15,620 Winchester,
18,703 Pulaski,
77
5,801 Trenton,
139
8,199 Vernon,
66
11,655 Bolivar,
158
112
4,868 Savannah,
275
5,334 Brownsville,
12,249 Paris,
108
8,748 Lexington,
130
1 6,187 Reynoldsburg,
77
| 9,698 Gainesborough,
79
22,075 Fayetteville,
73
5,411 Lawrenceburg,
75
i 27,665 Columbia,
42
14,349 Clarksville,
46
11,594 Jackson,
147
!
128
5,697 Purdy,
2,099 Troy,
i
161
8,242 Monroe,
109
7,094 Shannonsville,
114
26,134 Murfreesborough,
33
13,272 Springfield,
25
1
5,648 Memphis,
224
19,906 [Carthage,
52
20,569 Gallatin,
25
6,968 Dover,
81
Covington,
5,317
197
15,210 McMinnville,
74
9,967 Sparta,
92
26,638 Franklin,
18
25,472 Lebanon,
31
6,013
Waynesborough,
92
132
1 4,797 [Dresden,
| 485,6037of whom 123,716 ar e slaves.

203

TENNESSEE.

West Tennessee,
East Tennessee,

-

-

Population.
485,603
196,300

-

Slaves.
123,716
17,889

Total of Tennessee,
681,903
141,603
POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Population.
Increase.
In 1800
105,602 From 1800 to 1810
156,125
1
4
1810
261,727
1810
1820
159,086
1
1820
420,813
1820 * 1830
261,090
' 1830
681,903

GOVERNMENT.—Governor,'—term of office two years,—
salary $2,000 per annum.
The Legislature consists of a Senate and House of Representatives, styled the General Assembly of Tennessee.
The former shall consist of a number never less than onethird, nor greater than one-half as many as there are members of the House of Representatives. The number of
both depends upon that of the taxable inhabitants. At
present there are 20 Senators and 60 Representatives :
They are elected biennially. Their compensation is $4 a
day during the session of the Legislature, which meets
biennially on the third Monday in September, next following the election ; and it may be called, if necessary, at
other times, by the Governor.
The general election is once in two years, on the first
Thursday and Friday in August.
JUDICIARY.—The Supreme Court of Errors and Appeals consists of three judges,—salary of each, $1,800 per
annum. Two Chancellors—salary of each, $1,500.
There are eleven Circuits and as many judges : the
salary of each, $1,300 per annum.
Surface of the Country.—The eastern part of this state
is mountainous ; the middle and western parts are moderately even in general, and in many places quite level.
Some of the mountains, particularly the Cumberland range,
have table lands of considerable extent and tolerably level.
—Such land is of a light soil, but productive and good for
the growing of the smaller kinds of grain. Between the
mountain vallies of East Tennessee and the level lands of
the western part of the state, there is a difference of elevation of probably 1,000 feet; a fact which must have a

204

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

great effect upon the temperature and productions of the
two regions.
Soil.—As a whole, this state probably has less first rate
soil than Kentucky. But it has, nevertheless, a large extent of most excellent and productive land. Many of the
vallies of East Tennessee, and large portions of the middle
counties, and of the Western District, as it is called,—that
is, the portion of the state which lies west of the Tennessee
river, and between that river and the Mississippi—have an
uncommonly fertile soil.
Productions.—Corn is a great staple of this state. It
grows luxuriantly in all parts of it. Cotton grows well
also in this state, and large quantities are raised, especially
in the middle and western counties. Tobacco and hemp
are also raised. Wheat, rye, oats, barley, and buckwheat, grow well, especially in East Tennessee. All sorts
of vegetahles, including sweet-potatoes, dec. d t c , grow
finely in this state. Melons of all sorts find a congenial
soil here.
It is good cotton land which will yield a bale, or bag, of
400 pounds per acre. Some lands will yield twice this
quantity ; but much in this state yields less than one bale
an acre. Cotton, corn, hogs, horses, cattle, iron, tobacco, dec. &c. are the chief exports from this state.
Rivers.—The great rivers of this state are the Tennessee and Cumberland. The former rises in Virginia, and
flowing down to the south, it cuts the Cumberland mountains, and sweeping into the northern part of Alabama, it
turns to a north-western course across Tennessee into Kentucky, and falls into the Ohio, 48 miles above the junction
of that river with the Mississippi. Its whole course is
about 1200 miles; and is interrupted by the Muscle Shoals
and other rapids. The latter rising in Kentucky sweeps
down into this state, and finally enters the Ohio 11 miles
above the mouth of the Tennessee. It is navigable to
Nashville, and sometimes above, for the largest steamboats, when its waters are up—which occurs at intervals
all the year through, and especially in the early spring
and autumn. These rivers are very seldom frozen. Duck
river, an important branch of the Tennessee, is navigable
for boats during the fall and spring floods. And the Obion,
Forked Deer, Big Hatchie, and Wolf, which flow into the

TENNESSEE.

205

Mississippi from the Western District, afford considerable
advantages to that part of the state, inasmuch as they
are navigable for boats during the winter, spring and part
of the autumn. Steam-boats run on the Hatchie and
Wolf.
Manufactures.
Iron is made in large quantities in East
Tennessee, and along the Cumberland in the vicinity of
Clarksville-, below Nashville. Salt is manufactured to a
very limited extent in this state. In 1830, there were
$3,000 invested in this business, and 3,640 bushels made.
There are several factories in this state for spinning cotton, and soon the manufacture of that article will become
established in this state. Several steam-boats have been
recently built at Nashville and other places on the Cumberland.
EAST TENNESSEE. Whoever will take the trouble to inspect a map of this state, will at once discover, that it is
divided into two great, unequal, and in many respects very
dissimilar sections. I shall notice these divisions separately.
East Tennessee possesses a rhomboidal shape. Its
northern line separates it from Western Virginia, and its
southern divides it from Georgia and Alabama : while on
the east is the everlasting barrier of the Unika or Smoky
Mountain, which is a continuation of the Allegheny Ridge
of the Allegheny system, running from northeast to southwest ; and corresponding to it, runs, in a similar course,
the Cumberland Mountain, on the west. This mountain
separates East from West Tennessee. This whole region,
which embraces 22 counties, and constitutes one-third
part of the entire state, is very elevated. Even the vallies
which lie between its mountains are from 800 to 1,000
feet above the alluvial lands in the western part of the
state.
If any one supposes that East Tennessee is a vast plain
having mountains only on the east, and west, and south, he
is utterly mistaken ; for it is greatly intersected, especially
in the northern part of it, with mountainous ridges, of
greater or less elevation, and having intervening vallies of
varying widths, all pursuing, like the Unika and Cumberland, in the general, a course from N . E. to S. W.
The Tennessee, with its numerous confluents,—the
Holston, French Broad, Clinch, Hiwassee, and their numer18

206

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ous branches,—drains every valley in this entire region.
Several of these streams, such as the Nolechucy, French
Broad, Little Tennessee—or Tennessee as it is commonly
delineated on the maps, and which is far inferior to the
Hoiston, although it gives name to the great recipient,—
rise eastward of the Unika mountains, in North Carolina,
and in their course westward cut through it.
Many of these rivers are navigable for flot boats, during
a considerable portion of the year. But owing to the
numerous rapids and falls which exist in all of them, it is
almost, if not quite impossible to introduce steam-boats into
these waters, with much hope of success. It is true indeed
that the experiment is now making of running a steamboat, the u Knoxville," from Knoxville to the Muscle
Shoals ; but unless some very considerable obstructions
are removed, which may undoubtedly be done, the effort,
I fear, will not be very successful.
The valleys in East Tennessee are fertile. The productions are corn, wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, & c , in great
abundance, especially corn, which grows remarkably well.
Cotton is also much cultivated in the Hiwassee district.
Fruits, such as apples, peaches, & c , are very abundant.
I have never seen orchards more heavily loaded with fruit
than those of East Tennessee. This region also abounds
in honey. Almost every family along the roads on which
I have passed, possess several, and some a large number
of hives of bees, which yield a plentiful supply of one of
the most wholesome articles of diet. Gold mines exist in
the Unika Mountains, and also in the Hiwassee district.
The greatest obstacle to the more rapid increase of this
country in wealth and population, is the great difficulty of
exporting its productions to a market, and of importing
such foreign articles as are needed. To boat them down
the waters of the Tennessee, with all its difficulties,
to New Orleans, is a tedious business, and subjects
the trader to inconveniencies to which the trader from
Ohio, and indeed from any other portion of the Valley of
the Mississippi, is a stranger. And to wagon them across
to Baltimore or Lynchburg, as is most frequently done,
and to bring merchandise by the same mode of conveyance
from those places, which is the only way now pursued, of
obtaining it, is attended with enormous expense. At pre-

TENNESSEE.

207

sent the inhabitants are greatly stirred up on the subject
of having a rail road made from Knoxvilie to Lynchburg
in Virginia. This it is proposed to do by continuing the
rail road which the legislature of Virginia at a late session,
authorized a company to make from Lynchburg to New
River, which is the main branch of the Kanawha. Should
that road ever be made, its continuation to Knoxvilie, or
at least to the Boat Yard, or Kingsport, which is the
highest point on the Holston to which boat navigation
extends, will not be impracticable. On the other hand,
the people of Charleston urge the importance of extending
their Columbia and Augusta rail road, so as to enter East
Tennessee by the valley of the Nolechucky, or the French
Broad, or the Little Tennessee ; or else cross the highlands of North Alabama, and reach the Tennessee River
near the Muscle Shoals, and perhaps eventually reach to
the Mississippi River. These are great projects, and
should they ever be accomplished, they will confer great
blessings upon this secluded, though valuable portion of
our country.
There are many interesting towns and villages in East
Tennessee, such as Blountville, Rogersville, Jonesboro'
Greenville, Knoxvilie, Maryville, Athens, &c. Of all
these, Knoxvilie is by far the most important. It is on the
western bank of the Holston, on a hilly site, and near the
centre of this section of the state. It has a population of
about 3,000 inhabitants. There are three or four churches
here. The college stands on an elevated hill, south of the
town, and has a most commanding view of the whole
country around, the town on the north, and the Holston,
which meanders along amid lofty hills on the east.
East Tennessee, with its mountains and vallies, its rivers
and lofty and grand scenery, is the Switzerland of the
United States, and contains an active, industrious, frugal,
and moral population.
The first settlements were made in this part of the state
in 1757, when fort Loudon was built. From this period
until 1796, there was an almost continued series of Indian
wars, and the colonists suffered dreadfully. From 1784 to
1790 there were constant intestine difficulties, owing to the
attempted formation of a new and separate government
here, which was called the state of Frankland.
In 1790

208

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

N. Carolina ceded the whole country to the United States,
and in 1796 the state was organized as such, and received
into the Union. A full history of these events would be
interesting, but I cannot enter upon- it.
W E S T TENNESSEE. This portion of the state embraces
about two-thirds of the territory, contains 40 counties, and
is separated from East Tennessse by the Cumberland
Mountain. Its surface is scarcely any where very level,
but is generally undulating, and in many places, especially
in the eastern part of it, hilly. In a state of nature it was
covered (it is so still to a great extent) with a heavy forest
of oak, walnut, poplar, ash, elm, cedar, &c. Corn grows
abundantly, together with other small grains. Fruits, such
as apples and peaches, are very abundant. Garden vegetables also grow finely. But cotton is the grand staple of
West Tennessee. The rich alluvial lands of this portion
of the state yield fine cotton. Tobacco and hemp are cultivated, to some extent.
Shelbyville, Gallatin, Clarksville, Sparta, M'Minville,
Winchester, Columbia, Franklin, and Murfreesboro', are
flourishing towns, and centres of fertile regions. Memphis,
Randolph, and Bolivar, are important towns in the Western
District, that is, the section of West Tennessee which lies
west of the Tennessee river. There are 14 counties in this
portion of the state, and several flourishing towns. Indeed
Tennessee has a remarkably large number of flourishing
towns and villages, which bid fair, in the course of time, to
become important places.
But the chief town in West Tennessee, and indeed the
capital of the state, is NASHVILLE. This important town,
or rather city, for it is incorporated as such, stands on the
south-western bank of the Cumberland River, which here
flows a little to the west of north. It is 180 miles south of
Louisville, Kentucky; 714 fromWashington city; 199 west
of Knoxville, 110 north of Florence ; and 224 from Memphis on the Mississippi. Nashville was named in honour
of the brave Gen. Nash, who was killed in the battle of
Germantown. As early as 1767, the place where Nashville now stands was occupied as a station by French traders, and it was in its neighbourhood that many of the tragical events of the early Indian wars, which so long harrassed the first colonists of this state, occurred. But it

TENNESSEE.

209

was not until 1784, that the town was founded. The site
is far from being level. The town covers one entire hill
together with its gently sloping sides, and extends westward upon another, and on the south it is reaching another
in that direction, which is the gradually rising eminence
upon which the College stands. The site is a very elevated
one compared with the surface of the river, which flows by
in a narrow and deep channel.
Nashville literally stands upon a rock; for a hard limestone rock lies but a few inches below the surface. Indeed,
in many places, it is exposed to open view. The consequence is, that no cellar is here made but what is excavated, by blasting, from the solid rock. The houses are almost all of brick, and that of a fine colour. I have never
seen a town of the same size which contains as few mean
houses, and as little in the general appearance that offends
the eye. It is indeed a remarkably beautiful place. It
contains more elegant mansions and pleasant seats, in and
around it, than any other town, of equal size, in the United
States, which I have seen. There is much wealth and active business here. It is the commercial emporium of the
state. Eleven or twelve (perhaps more at times) steamboats, find business enough in the trade between this place
and Louisville and New-Orleans, during that portion of the
year when the Cumberland is navigable. And there is not
only wealth here, but there is intelligence, refinement, benevolence and hospitality, to an almost unrivalled extent.
The square around the court house and market is the great
business part of the city. The population is at least 8,000,
The Market House, Court House, Baptist, Presbyterian,
and Episcopal Churches, the Academy, and College, are
public buildings which arrest the attention of the stranger.
The market-house is a very fine one; and not only is the
architecture of it, but also the care with which it is kept
free from every thing offensive, very creditable to the inhabitants. The Episcopal Church is a beautiful building
of the Gothic style of architecture. There is a new Penitentiary building within half a mile of the city. It encloses
4 acres, and is constructed upon the most approved plan. It
is designed to hold about 300 convicts. It is on the plan of
the Prison at Weathersfield. The Water Works, by which
the city is supplied with water from the Cumberland, are
18*

210

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

a noble monument of the liberality Etna" enterprise of the
citizens.
There are several Classical schools in Nashville, where
youth prepare for the college. There are also several
most excellent female seminaries, the principal of which is
the public one under the superintendence of the Rev. Mr.
Hume, which has upwards of a hundred pupils. No town
in our country is better supplied with schools of a higher
grade, than Nashville.
Education,—This state has recently made some efforts
to secure a more general establishment of common
schools. A large fund, derived from the sales of the lands
in the Hiwassee district in East Tennessee, which were
granted to the state by the general government, has been
accumulated, and its interest distributed. But the sum
which is granted to each school district, is too inconsiderable to do much good. As the school fund amounts now to
more than f 1,000,000, if that sum were increased by the
addition of its interest, until it becomes upwards of
§2,000,000, and then the proceeds so given to the people
in each county, as to require their active co-operation in
raising a further amount by taxation, so as to secure the
establishment and maintenance of schools, as the NewYork system does, it would be a great blessing.
There are four colleges in this state, of which I shall
speak in another part of this work. There are several
academies and schools of an elevated character, both male
and female, in the state. But there is need of many more.
Curiosities.—This state abounds in natural curiosities
and relics of antiquity. Caves, rocks bearing unknown
characters and signs, tumuli, mounds and forts; graves
containing bones of men of an uncommonly small size, in
White county; salt-petre caverns, &c. & c , are very
numerous, and objects worthy of the attention of the curious traveller, Mr. Rafinesque has given much interesting
information respecting such matters, not only those relating
to this state, but to those of the whole Valley.
GENERAL REMARKS.—1. There is a great quantity of
excellent land in this state for sale at a low price, either
partially cultivated, or wholly uncultivated.
2. The climate of this state is very fine, being midway
between the extreme cold of the north* and the oppressive

TENNESSEE.

211

heat of the further south. It is in general a healthy climate.
Indeed this may be affirmed without hesitation, excepting
the low alluvial lands bordering on the Mississippi. The
inhabitants of no other parts of our country have finer
health than those of East Tennessee.
3. The whole state of Tennessee, and particularly the
western part of it, has increased very rapidly in population
during the last twenty or thirty years. In 1790, there
were 35,691 inhabitants; in 1800, 105,602; in 1810,
261,727; in 1820, 420,813; and in 1830, there were
681,903 ; of whom 535,745 are whites, 4,555 free blacks,
and 141,603 slaves. This rapid increase will continue for
a long time. It is somewhat remarkable, that the increase
of the population of this state should have been 261,090,
during the last ten years, for she has sent forth thousands
of emigrants to other and more western states.
4. On the 5th of November 1791, was brought into
Tennessee the first printing press. Soon after was issued
the first Tennessee newspaper, called the " Knoxville
Gazette." In 1809, a solitary barge of sixty tons and
thirty-fiye men, wound its laborious way up the Cumberland, and arrived at Nashville, to the joy and astonishment
of the inhabitants. The people from all the adjacent parts
of the country flocked together to see the " barge." The
important event was formally announced in the newspapers,
and the whole country rang with the intelligence. There
are now ten or eleven steam-boats, and some of them of
the largest class, employed in the Nashville trade. There
are also several on the Tennessee river, and one or two
small ones on the Hatchie.
5. Iron and salt are products of Tennessee, as are
gypsum, nitrous earth, beautiful marbles, and some other
fossils. Iron and gypsum are the most plentiful and valuable of the mineral bodies in the state. In its natural
state, Tennessee was covered with a most dense and diversified forest, which, added to its cultivated vegetables,
and metallic and fossil wealth, give great variety and value
to the staple commodities, which are again indefinitely
augmented by domestic animals. Provisions of all kinds,
and horses, cattle, and hogs, are exported to a great
amount annually.
6. From its structure it results, that whilst the western

212

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

part admits the profitable culture of cotton, the eastern is
suitable for the small grains ; whilst its most fertile river
valleys, it is supposed by many, are the most favourable
to the developement of Indian corn, of any places found
in the United States. Much flour is imported into the
cotton-growing parts of this state, from Ohio and other
states. The cotton of the western part of this state, particularly of the Western District, is both abundant, and of
a fine quality.
7. This is an interesting part of the country for the
traveller to visit. Whether he pursues his way amid the
mountains and vallies of East Tennessee, with all their
grand and picturesque scenery and pleasant villages, and
fertile fields ; or visits the fertile regions of middle and
western Tennessee, covered with noble forests, variegated
by numerous and deep channelled rivers, and partakes of
the generous and polite hospitality of the people, he will
find rich and constant enjoyment.
There is a regular line of stages, which, coming from
Washington City and Richmond, and passing through a
part of Western Virginia, traverses East Tennessee, passing through Blountville, Kingsport, Knoxville, Kingston, &c. It thence crosses the Cumberland Mountain by a
safe turnpike; and, passing through Sparta, continues to
M'Minnville. From that place the line branches into two,
one goes south through Winchester to Huntsville, Tuscaloosa, & c , the other passes through Murfreesboro' to
Nashville.
There is a daily line of stages between Nashville and
Louisville, and tri-weekly lines from Nashville to Memphis,
and to Florence, at the foot of the rapids, or " Muscle
Shoals" of Tennessee. Besides, there are many other
lines which run to the various towns throughout the state.
The distances of these places from Nashville, are given,
with sufficient accuracy in the table of counties and countytowns, in the beginning of the chapter.
8. Emigrants to this state will pursue the course men*
tioned in the chapter relating to Kentucky. The route
and modes of removing to this state are similar, or rather
the same as those mentioned in that chapter. Most or the
foreign emigrants to this state, will go to it by way of

TENNESSEE.

213

New-Orleans, and the steam-boats which run up the Mississippi, Tennessee and Cumberland rivers.
9. The following information, contained in a letter,
written by Mr. M. Rhea, of Columbia, Maury county, and
dated June 29th, 1832, was received just as this chapter
(in the first edition) was going to press. It contains some
interesting facts. It answers several queries, in order,
which I had propounded to Mr. Rhea. I ought to add,
that Mr. R. is the author of the excellent map of Tennessee, recently published , and is, perhaps, better acquainted
*
with that state, than any olher man in it.
1. "Manufactories of Salt.—This article has been manufactured at two places, in Hawkins and White counties—
but in very small quantities. They are at present scarcely
worthy of attention, owing to the weakness of the water.
" 2. Coal is found in almost all parts of the state, except
west of Tennessee River. The principal deposits are,
however, found on both sides of Cumberland Mountain,
between the foot and top. The deposits seem generally
to have nearly the same elevation. Bituminous entirely.
" 3. Metals.-—Iron is found and manufactured every
where east of Tennessee River. Gold is found in Monroe,
M'Minn, Blount, and Sevier. Lead has been found in
several places. No works for smelting that metal have
yet been constructed. These are the only metals which
have attracted any attention heretofore.
" 4 . Relics of Antiquity abound every where through
the state, particularly in West Tennessee. They are presented either in the form of clay-walled towns, with houses
and graves in the interior, or as high and large mounds of
earth and shapeless sto-nes. The towns are always situated
near a good spring or stream of water; the walls extending to, or enclosing part of the water. The graves are
seldom deeper than one and a half or 2 feet, lined with
flat stones at the bottom, sides, ends and top. The body
seems generally to have been placed in a sitting posture.
No gigantic skeletons have been found in this country.
The remains, and sometimes the whole, of earthern vessels,
are found in the graves ; these seem to have been water
vessels. Small stone hatchets, and other edge tools of the
same material, are frequently found in these cemeteries
and towns. No implements, nor ornaments of metal, are

214

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

seen. No conjecture can be formed of the purpose designed in the construction of the mounds or pyramids.
They are, generally, round and conical. I have seen some
flat and regular on the top, and bounded by straight sides,
and right-angled corners. These piles have been frequently
penetrated, but no remains have been discovered in the
interior. There are many of these relics of antiquity in
this (Maury) and the adjoining counties.
" 5. Fort Loudon is the only ancient fortification of
European construction known in this state. The remains
are only discernible, it having been a hastily constructed
fort. It stands immediately above and between the junction of Tennessee and Tellico Rivers.
" 6. Rail Roads and Canals.—It is difficult, in the present state of things, to determine which of these modes of
internal improvement will be best adapted to the country.
On account of the very rednced stage of water in West
Tennessee in the summer season, it is probable that the
canalling system cannot be made useful here. No important objection exists against the other mode. All the
materials for rail ;roads abound, and are cheap, in every
part of the state,""""

/fc£c:

15 LoiigitiLde'iWest 34 froiu^\ r aslimgt<m 13

ILLINOIS.

215

CHAPTER XVIII.
ILLINOIS.

ILLINOIS is bounded on the north by Huron District, attached to Michigan Territory at present; north-east by
Lake Michigan ; east by Indiana ; south-east by the Ohio,
which separates it from Kentucky; west and south-west
by the Upper Mississippi River, which separates it from
Missouri and the Sioux District. It extends from N. lat.
37°, to 42° 30'; and from W. long. 10° 35' to 14° 25'.
From the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi to the
northern boundary,-Illinois is 382 miles long; its area is
57,900 square miles, or 37,056,000 acres.

TABLE OF THE COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.
COUNTIES.

Adams,
Alexander,
Bond,
Calhoun,
Clarke,
Clay,
Clinton,
Crawford,
Edwards,
Edgar,
Fayette,
Franklin,
Fulton,
Gallatin,
Greene,
Hamilton,
Hancock,
Henry,

SITUATION.

POPULATION
IN 1830.

COUNTY TOWNS.

2,186 Quincy,
w
s
1,390 America,
wm
3,124 Greenville,
w
1,092 Gilead,
e
3,940 Clarke C. H.
em
755 Maysville,
sm
2,330 Carlyle,
e
i l l ? Palestine,
e
^ 1 # 4 9 Albion,
e
4,071 Paris,
m
2,704 VANDALIA,
s
4,083 Frankfort,
nm
1,841 Fulton C. H .
7,405 Equality,
se
i
w
^,674 Carrolton,
2,616 McLeanboro',
se
483 Venus,
w
n
41 Middletown,

Distance
from
Vandalia.

193
181
20
126
86
46
30
118
92
106
102
133
137
106
93
133

216

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

{Table

Continued.)

i Distance
from
1 Vandalia.
Jackson,
sw
1,828 Brownsville,
[' 127
Jefferson,
sm
2,555 Mount Vernon,
65
Johnson,
s
1,596 Vienna,
j 167
Joe-Daviess,
nw
2,111 Galena,
326
1
n m
274 Knox C. H.
Knox,
188
e
3,668 Lawrenceville,
Lawrence,
84
Macon,
n m
1,122 Decatur,
70
Macaupin,
m
1,990 Carlinville,
95
Madison,
w
6,221 Edwardsville,
55
Marion,
sm
2,125 Salem,
26
Mercer,
nw
26
Montgomery,
m
2,958 Hillsborough,
28
Monroe,
w
2,000 Waterloo,
99
Morgan,
w m 12,714 Jacksonville,
90
Perry,
s m
1,215 Pinckneyville,
129
Pike,
w
2,396 Atlas,
148
Pope,
se
3,316 Golconda,
160
Peoria,
)
n m
43
1,310 Peoria,
n
Hennepin,
Putnam, §
Randolph,
sw
4,429 Kaskaskia,
95
Sangamon,
m
12,960 Springfield,
79
Shelby,
m
2,972 Shelbyville,
40
St. Clair,
w
7,078 Belleville,
71
Schuyler,
)
w m
Elushville,
| 142
2,959
Macomb,
w m
M'Donough, $
Tazewell,
m
4,716 Mackinaw,
149
Union,
sw
3,239 Jonesborough,
154
Vermillion,
e
5,836 Danville, ,
150
Warren,
n w
308 Warren,
e
2,710 Mount Carmel,
Wabash,
109
Washington,
s m
1,675 Nashville,
I
Wayne,
s e m\ 2,553! Fairfield,
69
White,
s e 1 6,091' Carmi,
1
94
Total, 51 Counties.|157,455, of whom 747 are slaves.
COUNTIES.

POPULASITUATION
TION. IN 1830.

COUNTY TOWNS.

217

ILLINOIS.

The following new counties have been made since the
census of 1830 was taken.
COUNTIES.

Coles,
Cook,
La Salle,
McLean,
Rock Island,
Jasper,
Effinoham,

SITUATION. |COUNFY

e
ne
n
nm
nw
se
m

TOWNS.

Charleston.
Chicago.
Ottawa.
Bloomington.

POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERI ;DS.
Population.
Increase.
In 1810,
12,282 From 1910 to 1820,
42,929
55,211
1820,
'
1820 ' 1830, 102,234
.
157,445
1830,

Illinois was admitted into the Union in 1818, and contained that year, by enumeration, 35,22<"> inhabitants.
OUTLINES OP TILE CONSTITUTION.

T h e Legislative au-

thority is vested in a General Assembly, consisting of a
Senate, the members of which are elected for four years;
and of a House of Representatives, elected biennially.
Their number depends on circumstances designated in the
constitution. At present there are 18 Senators, and 36
Representatives. The pay of each is $3 a day. The
General Assembly meets every other year (at Vandalia,
the capital of the state,) on the 1st Monday in December
next following the election; and the Governor is authorized
to convene it, on extraordinary occasions, at other times.
GOVERNMENT. The Governor is elected for four years;
his salary is $ 1000 per annum. There is a Lieutenant
Governor who is president of the senate.
JUDICIARY. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief
Justice and three Associate Judges ; Their salaries are
$1000 each. They hold circuit courts- also. There is
another Judge for the circuit north of the Illinois river.
The "County Commissioners' Court" levies taxes, and is
composed of three commissioners elected every two years.
Justices of the peace are elected every four years by the
people. Their jurisdiction is over inferior cases.
19

218

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI,

There is a Judge of Probate in each county who grants
letters of administration, receives probate of wills, and
before whom all business relating to estates of those who
deceased without having made wills, is transacted.
Imprisonment for debt is disallowed except in case of
fraud, or the refusal of the debtor to deliver up his property for the benefit of his creditors Slavery is not
allowed to be introduced otherwise than as a punishment
of crime, since the adoption of the constitution. There are
no laws against usury.*
Surface of the Country* The northern and southern parts
of this state are broken, and slightly hilly, but as a whole
this state is more level than perhaps any other in the
Valley of the Mississippi. When examined minutely, it
is found that there are several varieties in the surface of
this state, which will be very briefly specified.
1. The alluvial bottoms which stretch along the Mississippi, Wabash, Illinois, Kaskaskia, Rock, and all the other
streams. These bottoms are of various widths, in some
places a mile, and in others six or eight. The American
bottom, as it is called, reaches along the Mississippi from
the mouth of the Kaskaskia to Alton, or a little above the
entrance of the Missouri; a distance of near 90 miles.
The soil of these bottoms is alluvial, of astonishing fertility,
often embedding trees and other vegetable remains.
These bottoms along the margin of the rivers are covered
with a heavy forest. But more remote from the rivers,
they are covered with prairies of various sizes, commonly
narrow and interrupted by forests. As the surface declines
from the river bank, it often happens that a portion of the
bottoms is covered with stagnant waters, a part of the
year, which were left by the overflowing of the rivers.
They might be easily drained. Owing to the stagnant
water and the decay of immense quantities of vegetable
productions, they are often unhealthy.
2. Prairies.
A large part, probably more than one
half of the surface of this state, is covered with prairies.
In the southern part,— that is south of the national road
from Terre Haute to St. Louis,—the prairies are comparatively small, varying in size from those which are several
* See the Constitution of the State.

ILLINOIS,

219

miles in circumference, to those which contain only a few
acres. But in the middle and northern parts of the state,
they become very extensive, and stretch out in some directions so that the eye perceives with difficulty the bounding
forests. In general however they are narrow and of an
irregular shape ; at one place projecting into the forests;
at others, the forests make inroads into them, and points
of woods reach nearly into their centres. Often, insulated
clumps of trees stand like an island in the midst of the
prairie. The prospect, to one passing through these prairies in the spring season, is delightful. The scene is forever changing, always picturesque, and beautiful.
The prairies are generally undulating, seldom exactly
level, often slightly concave, so that, in some cases, they
have stagnant waters over their central surface in the
spring. Their soil is various but fertile. From May to
October, they are covered with tall grass and flower-producing weeds. In June and July, these prairies seem like
an ocean of flowers, of various hues, arid waving to the
breezes which sweep over them. The heliotrope or sunflower, and other splendid vegetables which grow luxuriantly over these plains, present a striking and delightful
appearance. A considerable portion of the prairies along
the streams, and some of those which are more elevated,
are incapable of being cultivated, on account of the inundation to which they are subjected during a large part of
the spring and summer.
As to the origin of these prairies it would be useless to
speculate much. They were probably* formed, as they
certainly are perpetuated, by annual fires, which sweep
over them every autumn. Along the streams, and in other
places where vegetation does not suffer from the drought
of the latter part of summer and early autumn, and of
course becomes sear and combustible less soon than it does
in the plains which are drier, the fire does not encroach
much : consequently the forests prevail there, and probably
gradually encroach in some places upon the prairies.
* Doubtless many of the prairies were formed by inundations. This
opinion is strengthened by facts as well as by their general position as
it regards relative elevation. But this is a point which I cannot here
di scuss,

220

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Wherever the fire is kept out of the prairies, they soon
become covered with a dense arid rapidly growing forest.
S. Barrens.—These are a species of country of a mixed
character, uniting forest and prairie. They are covered
with sparse, stinted oaks, &c. and grass. The fire sweeps
over them in the fall, but is not powerful enough, from
want of abundant fuel, to destroy the timber. They soon
become covered with thick forests, when the fire is excluded. They are not poor land, as their title, given
ignorantly by the early settlers, would seem to indicate.
They are generally second-rate land, productive, healthy,
more rolling than the prairies, and abounding in good
springs. Parts of this state, a large portion of Kentucky
south of Green River, and some parts of the other western
states, are of this description.
4. Along the rivers, and beyond the bottoms where there
are any, are often elevated bluffs, conical, and insulated,
rather than of the form of connected ridges, and of from
one to three hundred feet high. The knobs are stony, and
often rocky at or near their summits. They are found
along the rivers in some parts of this state. The ravines
which separate them, are often deep.
The prairies are often intersected by ravines, which lead
down to the streams. Sink-holes are found in some parts
of the state, which are sometimes wide and deep. Frequently they no longer drain off the waters, but are filling
up gradually. Their existence shows, that the substratum is secondary limestone, abounding in subterraneous
cavities.
There is, in this state, but little stony ground, in the
sense in which that expression is used in the east,—denoting loose stones scattered through the surface. Quarries
of stone are found in the bluffs, and in the banks of the
streams and ravines.
The soil of this state is generally very fine, and exceedingly productive. The prairies are difficult to plough, on
account of the firm grassy sward which covers them. But
when subdued, they become fine arable lands.
The kinds of timber most abundant are cotton-wood,
sycamore, hickory,ash, sugar-maple, beech ; black, white
red, post, and jack oak ; black and white walnut; blue and
white ash ; sweet and sour or black gum; red and water

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221

elm ; black and honey locust; linden, buck-eye, peccan,
hackberry, catalpa, mulberry, box elder, wild cherry, willow, dogwood, sassafras, persimmon, with smaller underwood of sumach, plum, crab apple, grape vines, paw-paw,
hazle, &c. &c. The sycamore and cotton wood grow
along the streams. In the southern end, on the streams
which flow into the Ohio and Mississippi towards their
junction, the cypress grows. The trees in this state exhibit a very luxuriant growth, and are often of enormous
size.
Productions.—The
staple productions of Illinois are
Indian corn, wheat, Irish and sweet potatoes, beef, pork,
horses, tobacco, and lead. The castor bean, or Palma
Christi, is raised in considerable and increasing quantities.
It grows well here. Wine is made, but not to a great
extent. Cotton is raised in considerable quantities for
domestic use, and is manufactured extensively, in the families of farmers, into coarse fabrics. Hemp, flax, and silkworms, succeed well. Apples, peaches, pears, plums,
cherries, grapes, gooseberries and currants, arrive at great
perfection. The wild fruits are grapes, plums, cherries,
gooseberries, mulberries, crab apples, persimmons, blackberries, raspberries, and strawberries.
All the cultivated grasses, such as timothy, clover, &c.
grow well here. The prairies are covered with a species
of rough grass, which affords a fine pasturage, and good
hay.
The wild animals of this state are deer, brown bears,
grey, black and prairie wolves ; foxes, racoons, squirrels,
opossums, gophers, panthers, rabbits, turkies, &c. The
deer are abundant in many parts of the state. Their skins
are often dressed and worn by hunters and farmers. The
prairie wolf is a small species of wolf, and exceedingly
mischievous. He is the jackall of the West. The gopher
is about as large as a squirrel, and injures the prairie
lands by his burrowing, and throwing up numerous little
hills. Wild horses of a small size exist in this state.
They are of the same species as the Indian ponies, and are
the offspring 0 f the horses which were brought here by
the early French settlers, and suffered to run at large.
Horses, cattle, hogs, sheep, and poultry of every kind,
are raised with the greatest ease in this state. The prai19*

222

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ries afford abundant pasturage and hay for cattle, horses,
and sheep. No country in the world has greater advantages for raising live stock* Hogs are raised with little
trouble and expense. The fruits of the forest, the mast
of the oak, beech, walnut, &c. are fine food for them. And
in the fall they become well prepared for slaughtering,
after being fed for a short time on corn ; or are fit for it
without having been thus fed. A few dollars will purchase
a few breeding swine; and, in a short time, every farmer
has a large stock of hogs around him. The same thing
may be said of cattle and horses. Many farmers, in
ordinary circumstances, raise annually several hundreds
of hogs, a hundred head, or twice that number of cattle,
and ten or twenty horses. Tens of thousands of cattle and
hogs are annually driven to an eastern market from this
state. And more, perhaps, are slaughtered, salted, and
sent to New Orleans by boats. The value of the salted
beef, pork, tallow, lard, butter, hides, and cheese, which
are thus exported, cannot be accurately estimated.
The fowls of the state, both wild and tame, are numerous. Wild geese and ducks frequent, in great numbers,
the rivers, lakes and ponds. The " prairie hen," is very
abundant. Partridges (the quails of New England,) are
very numerous. Domestic geese, ducks, &c. are easily
and abundantly raised. Geese feathers are exported to
the East, and find a good market.
Honey is a valuable product of this state, as well as of
all the neighbouring states. Both wild and domesticated
bees are found throughout the state. Almost every family
has a number of hives in the vicinity of the house,—whilst
the frontier men spend much of their leisure time in the
fall, in taking the wild bees. Honey sells for fifty cents a
gallon, by the barrel; whilst beeswax always finds a ready
sale.
The mineral products of this state are lead, copper,
iron, salt, &c. Lead is found in the greatest abundance
in the north-western angle of this state, and the region
around on both sides of the Mississippi, from the Rock
River to the Ouisconsin. The entire extent of this lead
region, is probably near 200 miles in length, by 100 in
breadth. Galena is the centre of the lead business in this
state. It is eleven years since these mines began to be

ILLINOIS.

223

wrought. There are now many " diggings." The ore is
inexhaustible, and very rich, yielding from 50 to 85 per
centum. The total amount of lead made here until September 30, 1830, was 40,088,860 lbs. It was only in 1827,
that these mines began to be wrought very extensively.
In that year 5,182,180 pounds were made ; in 1828,
11,105,810 pounds were made; in 1829, 13,343,150; in
1830, 8,323,998. In 1831, a large amount was made.
But in 1832, desolation pervaded this entire region, on
account of the Indian war.
Bituminous coal is found abundantly in ail parts of this
state, in the bluffs, and the banks of the water courses.
On the Illinois, and opposite to St. Louis, in St. Clair
county, it is very abundant. And many thousands of
bushels are sent to St. Louis annually, and sold at the
rate of from ten to twelve and a half cents per bushel.
Iron ore is found in the southern end of the state; and
it is said to exist near the rapids of the Illinois.
Native copper, in small quantities, has been fo&nd in
Jackson and Monroe counties, in the southern part of the
state. But in the lead region, between the Rock and
Ouisconsin rivers, there is a district of twenty miles by 5
or 6, which contains much copper ore. It will soon be a
valuable product.
Silver mines are supposed to exist in the southern part
of this state. Cornelian stones, topaz, jasper, agate, opal,
and quartz, are found in this state.
Salt is manufactured on Saline river, in Gallatin county,
12 miles from Shawneetown. About 130,000 bushels are
made here annually. Salt is also made in the neighbourhood of Brownsville, on Muddy Creek, in Jackson county,
about 12 miles from the Mississippi; on some of the
streams of the Sangamon; in the neighbourhood ofCarlyle, on the Kaskaskia; in Madison county ; and, probably
in other parts of the state.
In 1829, there were $53,000 invested in the manufacture of salt in this state, and 138,000 bushels were made
that year. The business has greatly increased since that
period.
Manufactures,—Salt, as I have already remarked, is
made in several places in this state. The manufacture of
this important article will annually increase. Salt water

224

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

is abundant in this state, and there is no want of coal or
wood as fuel, by which it may be evaporated. Salt-works
open a fine market to the farmers around them for their
corn, beef, pork, potatoes, fruits, vegetables, and manufactures. Salt sells at these works at the rate of one bushel for
two of corn ; four bushels of salt for one hundred pounds
of beef, or a hundred of flour, & c . ; or from thirty-seven
and a half to fifty cents per bushel of fifty pounds.
There are between ten and twenty steam grist and saw
mills in the state. Large quantities of flour are now manufactured here, and exported. Mills propelled by steam,
water, and horse power, or by oxen or horses on an inclined plane, are constantly increasing. Steam mills will become numerous, on account of the comparative want of
good sites for water mills, and of the abundance and
cheapness of fuel. A good steam saw mill, with two
saws, can be built for $1500. And a steam flour mill,
having three pair of stones, elevators, &c. may be built
for from $3,500 to $5,000. Such a mill will make
from 30 to 50 barrels of flour in 24 hours. The number of horse mills, tread mills, and water mills, in this
state, is already great.
Considerable quanties of castor oil are manufactured in
this state from the palma christi, or castor bean. This
vegetable growns finely in this soil. And the process of
expressing the oil, is as simple as that of making cider.
It is a much more difficult task to clarify the oil, when it
is expressed. One bushel of castor beans will make near
two gallons of oil. The price of the beans and the oil has
diminished greatly, on account of the increased competition within two or three years. There are six or eight
castor oil presses in the state. Mr. Adams of Edwardsville made in 1825, 500 gallons, which he sold at the rate
of $2 50, per gallon. In 1826 he made 800 gals : in 1827
1,000 gals: in 1828, 1,800 gals: in 1829, 521 gals:
1830, 10,000 gals : in 1831, 12,500 gals: at present castor oil sells for about seventy five cents per gallon.
There area few factories for the making of cotton yarn.
The prospect is that they will increase. There is also a
number of cotton gins.
But little iron is yet manufactured in this state. There

ILLINOIS.

225

is a furnace in Wabash county. This species of manufacture will speedily increase.
I have already spoken of the manufacture of lead. It
has been very extensive during the last few years. It is
sold at Galena at prices varying from two or three cents
per pound.
There is in this state, as in all the other western states,
a vast amount of domestic manufactures made by families.
All the trades which are needed in this new state are
springing into being. Every town and county has carpenters, shoe makers, blacksmiths, wagon makers, weavers, &c.
Steam boats will soon be added to the list of articles
manufactured in this state. Indeed I believe that already
one has been commenced at Alton, 22 miles above St.
Louis.
Rivers. This state has great navigable facilities. It
has the Mississippi flowing along its south-western border
540 miles: Michigan washes a shore of 57 miles on the
north-east. The Wabash is a boundary on the east 120
miles; and the Ohio adds 130 miles on the south-east:
whilst in the interior, to say nothing of smaller streams,
the Kaskaskia gives 150, the Illinois 300, and the Rock
River 150 miles of boat navigation.
The Illinois is a beautiful stream ; and during a large
portion of the year it is navigable for steam-boats to Peoria,
160 miles above the mouth, and even to the rapids, which
are 230 miles. It has many large and boatable confluents,
such as the Macaupin, Apple Creek, Crooked Creek, Sangamon, Spoon, Mackinac, Vermillion, Fox,Pickaminkand
Plane. These streams are boatable during the high waters
for man}' miles, and flow through veiy fertile regions.
No part of this state exceeds the country along the Sangamon in excellent soil.
Rock River rises in Huron district. It has many
branches, and flows with a rapid current over a sandy
bottom, and enters the Mississippi at Rock Island ; a
beautiful and romantic spot, 298 miles above St. Louis.
The Kaskaskia has also many branches, and irrigates the
middle of the southern half of the state. It is a beautiful
stream, and flows through a fertile region.
The little Wabash, Embarrass and Vermillion, are im-

226

V A L L E Y OF T H E M I S S I S S I P P I .

portant and boatable streams, which flow into the Wabash
oh the eastern side of the state ; whilst Muddy Creek,
Cahokia, Henderson's Creek, Edward's Creek, Plum
Creek, Apple and Fever Rivers, &c. are streams which
flow into the Mississippi, and most of I hem boatable at
periods of high water: the last three named, flow from
the lead region above Rock River.
The great advantages of this state for navigation and
commerce, will be perceived by an inspection of a map of
the state. It enjoys between 8000 and 4000 miles of boat
navigation, and its citizens may send the products of their
industry to New-Orleans or New-York.
A route for a canal from the Illinois to Chicago on Lake
Michigan, has been surveyed. Its length will be about 70
miles. The general government has made a donation of
each alternate section for the space of five miles on each
side of the proposed canal, throughout its entire length,
upon conditions similar to those upon which grants were
made to the canals in Ohio and Indiana. The quantity of
land granted to this state, for these internal improvements,
is 480,000 acres. This canal has not yet been undertaken.
Much greater difficulties than were at first anticipated
have been ascertained to exist in the nature of the ground,
from the Plane river to Chicago, a distance of about 20
miles; there being a sub-stratum of solid limestone a few
feet below the surface.
On this account the idea of obtaining water for the summit leveLfrom the lake will probably be relinquished; and
if a feeder cannot be made from the Calumick river,—a
stream which flows into the southern extremity of the lake
—a rail-road for this intervening distance of 20 miles
must be resorted to. There can be no doubt but that soon
a canal or rail-road will open up admirable facilities for
the transportation of merchandize from Lake Michigan to
St. Louis and this entire region.
All the larger rivers of this state are similar to the Mississippi in having bluffs on one side or the other, with forests and prairies intervening in many places between them
and the river; whilst on the opposite side stretches out a
level or moderately undulating country.
4|, Towns* VANDALIA is the capital of the state. It is
situated on the right or western bank of the Kaskaskia, at

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227

N» lat. 38° 57' and W. long. 11° 58'. It is in the centre
of a beautiful and fertile country. The public buildings
are only temporary. The population is about 1000. The
national road from Cumberland through Columbus in Ohio,
Indianapolis and Terre Haute in Indiana, to St. Louis, is
to pass through this new and growing town. Vandalia is
about 70 miles from St. Louis and 781 miles from Washington city. Congress has appropriated 2560 acres to this
state, for the seat of government; the sales of which will
erect the public buildings of the state.
EDWARDSVILLE on Cahokia Creek, 20 miles north-east
from St. Louis, is a pleasant and growing village. Until
within a few years, it was the seat of government, which
had been transferred from Kaskaskia to that place.
BELLEVILLE in St. Clair county, 14 miles south-east of
St. Louis; Carrolton in Green county: Carlyle on the
right bank of the Kaskaskia, in Clinton county ; Albion in
Edwards county, on the eastern side of the state, and near
Bon-Pas creek; Jacksonville in Morgan county ; Springfield in Sangamon county ; Brownsville on Muddy creek,
in Jackson county; and many more might be mentioned
as delightful towns in the interior of the state, and centres
of fertile regions.
Along the Ohio stand America, Golconda, Shawneetown,
and other and smaller places. Shawneetown is the chief
of them. It is 9 miles below the mouth of the Wabash,
and 110 miles south east of Vandalia. It is the largest
town in the state, and has considerable trade. Its situation
is low and liable to partial inundations at extremely high
floods. There is an office here for the entry of purchases
of public land. Trinity is a village of a few houses on the
Ohio, six miles above the junction of that river with the
Mississippi. It is a noted landing place for steam-boats.
Oxford, Carmi, Palmyra and Palestine, are new towns on
different streams of the Wabash.
KASKASKIA is the county town of Randolph county. It
is situated on the right bank of the Kaskaskia river, 6
miles from its mouth. It is in the midst of a beautiful
country. It was founded the year after Philadelphia was.
It had, when in the possession of the French, 7000 inhabitants ; at present, it has about 1000. There is a Land
Office here.

228

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ALTON stands on the Mississippi, one mile above the
mouth of the Missouri, sixteen miles below the entrance of
the Illinois, twenty-two above St. Louis, and sixty west of
Vandalia. There are two neighbouring villages, called
Upper and Lower Alton. The prospect is, that Alton will
become a place of great business. The population is between 500 and 1000. This will be an important station
for building steam and other boats. Vast numbers of hogs
and cattle, are here slaughtered for the New Orleans
market.
GALENA is on Fever River, a short distance above its
entrance into the Mississippi, in the north-western corner
of the state. It is the seat of justice for Joe-Daviess county,
and the centre of the lead region in this portion of the state.
It has a population of 1200 inhabitants. There have been
as many as 99 arrivals of steam-boats at this place in a
year!- The population of the lead region is about 10,000.
CHICAGO is the principal port on Lake Michigan, within
the limits of this state. It stands at the entrance of the
Chicago River, into the lake. It is a growing place. It
will, from its favourable situation, become a place of a great
commission business. A line of packets is established between this place and Detroit and Buffalo. There is also a
steam-boat trading between it and Newburyport, on the
St. Joseph's, in Michigan Territory.
Along the Illinois River are several towns rapidly growing up, at which many stream-boats arrive annually from
St. Louis : such as Reardstown, Peoria, &c.
Education,—In most of the denser settlements, common
schools are maintained during a part of each year. It is to
be regretted, that many of the teachers are but poorly qulaified for the office of teaching a school. A greater interest
is, however, awaking on this subject. Congress has granted to this state one-thirty-sixth part of all the public land,
or one section in every township,—in all 977,457 acres,—
for common schools: besides three per cent, on all the sales
of public lands in this state, excepting a sixth part of this
sum which is to go to the establishment of a College. The
fund growing out of this reservation from the sales of public land, now amounts to more than $40,000. Besides, two
townships, or 46,080 acres, are granted for a Seminary of
learning, or College. The value of all these lands consid-

ILLINOIS.

229

erably exceeds, even at the rate at which the public land is
sold, $1,200,000. At some future, and no very distant
day, it is hoped, a liberal and efficient common school system will be established in this state. A number of Academies,—at Belleville, Kaskaskia, Rock Spring, &c. have
been established. Female schools, of an elevated character, are commencing under good auspices.
The saline reservations in this state, which have been
given to the state by the general government, are 206,128
acres.
GENERAL REMARKS.—This state proffers many inducements to those who are emigrating to the West.
1. It is easy of access, by the most convenient and cheap
modes of removal. On the north is Lake Michigan, by
which emigrants from New-England and New-York, as
well as foreigners, are constantly entering the fertile plains
of the northern end of the state. On the south, the steamboats from New-Orleans, are constantly carrying hundreds
and thousands of emigrants up the Mississippi, Illinois,
Rock River, Ohio, and Wabash. Whilst by the same
mode, emigrants from Western Pennsylvania and Virginia,
Ohio and Kentucky, are constantly arriving. Indeed, a
majority of the people of this state have emigrated from
Kentucky and Tennessee, who removed either by water, or
more commonly by land in their wagons, carrying with
them much of their furniture, their farming utensils, and
their live stock—which it was easy to do, on account of the
shortness of the distance. The expence of removing a
family from Buffalo, Pittsburg, or New-Orleans, and all
places in their general vicinity, by steam-boat, to any parts
of Illinois, which are within 100 miles of the Mississippi,
Illinois, Ohio, and Wabash rivers, or of Lake Michigan,
(and this will include every part) is far from being expensive, as I shall show in another place.
2. There are 28,237,859 acres of public land in this
state to which the Indian title has been extinguished, yet
to be sold; and 3,158,110 still belonging to the Indians,
which will soon be in the market. For a treaty has very
recently been proposed to the tribes in this state, by which
they will probably sell their lands. The price of public
land is $1 25 per acre. No credit is allowed.
20

230

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

The names of places where Land Offices are opened,
Registers, and Receivers of moneys arising from the sales
of public lands, are as follows:
Receivers*
Land Offices,
Registers.
;
Shawneetown, James C. Stoo,
John Caldwell,
William L. May,
Springfield,
John Taylor,
Charles Prentiss,
Vandalia,
William Linn,
Wm. P. McKee,
Edwardsville,
Benj.F. Edwards,
Miles Hotchkiss,
Kaskaskia,
Edward Humphreys
Joseph Ketchell,
Palestine,
Guy W . Smith,
Francis Prince,
Danville,
Samuel M'Roberts,
Sam'l Alexander, . Thomas Carlin.
Quincy,
3. Farms, considerably cultivated, may be purchased
from the early settlers who desire to purchase government lands again, at prices varying from $2 50 to $8 per
acre.
4. In no part of our country is it possible to convert an
uncultivated piece of land into a good farm, sooner than in
this state. Let an emigrant purchase, as he may do in
thousands of places, a quarter of a section (160 acres) of
land, or the half of it, or a section, if he is able, on the borders of a fertile prairie, so that one half of his purchase
may be wood-land and the other half prairie, or whatever
other proportion he chooses. And let him fence the larger part of his prairie land, and retain the wood-land to
furnish timber, and in a short time he may have an excellent farm under cultivation. He may soon raise as many
cattle, hogs, horses, &c. as he may desire, or has corn and
hay to feed them with in the winter. And there need be
no want of these things, if he has two or three hands to
help him to cultivate his fields and mow his prairie. The
prairie and woodland will afford range enough for his cattle, hogs, and horses in the spring, summer, fall, and early
winter.
T h e larger prairies, which are sometimes several miles
across, are like the lakes in New York and other parts of
our country, public property ; and all who live around
their borders, have a common right to send as many cattle
into them as they choose. The prairie, when turned into
fields, is difficult, for two or three years, to subdue com-

ILLINOIS.

331

pletely. This is owing to the unyielding grassy sward
with which they are covered ; and to plough which requires a strong team of horses or oxen.
5. An emigrant, after having selected and purchased
the tract of ground which pleases him,—and in doing this
he ought always to prefer a healthy region of moderate
fertility to exuberant lands where sickness prevails,—has
to select a site for a house. This ought, if possible, to be
elevated, accessible to the breezes, near to a good spring,
and remote from swamps and marshes. The immediate
bank of the river is better than the low partially inundated
land more remote from the river, and near the bluffs :
ravines, coves, and all confined places are to be avoided.
6. In settling upon uncultivated lands, and having but
little money beyond what they need to purchase that land,
emigrants cannot expect to have costly houses for a few
years. They must erect cabins, made of unhewn logs,
with roofs made of clap-boards, that is, of large undressed
shingles, not nailed on, but kept in their places by large
saplings or pieces of timber laid on them. The floor, where
boards cannot be obtained, is made of puncheons> that is,
logs split into thick plank and hewn. Such a house ought
to have a good chimney, the crevices between the logs
well closed and daubed, and sufficient ventilation by doors
and windows. It costs but a few dollars to erect such a
cabin, or a double one, and have a sort of porch around it
of eight or ten feet in width. A kitchen, a meat or smoke
house, spring or milk-house, a corn-crib, and log-barn,
with a wagon-shed, will be all the building needed for a
while; and they may be made, where there is industry
and ingenuity, for a small amount. At a future day, a
good framed or brick house, a framed barn, &c. may be
erected. But however plain a cabin may be, it ought
to be comfortable, dry, and warm in winter; not always
leaking, smoky, and damp from a floor resting on the
ground.
Mr. Peck supposes that if an emigrant should purchase
320 acres of land, and pay for all the improvements, the
amount would be as follows:

232

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

160 acres of prairie at $1 25 per acre,
.
$200
Fencing it, in four fields of 40 acres each, with
a Virginia fence eight rails high, .
.
160
Breaking up, with the plough, these 160 acres •
at $2 per acre,
.
.
.
.
320
To this add the cost of cabins, stables, corncribs, & c , say,
.
.
.
.
200
Eighty acres of timbered land, and eighty of
prairie, adjoining it, for timber, pasture, &c.
200
Making the cost of a farm of 320 acres, and
improvements to be

^

5

0ftn

Of course, smaller farms would cost less. But few
emigrants, however, purchase every thing in this way.
By their own labour they do much that would cost a great
deal, if purchased or hired. An emigrant needs two or
three horses, a few cows, hogs, and sheep: two or three
ploughs, harrows, wagons, &c. If he cannot take all
these with him, and it is not convenient for emigrants
from the East to do so, he can purchase them here. His
ploughs, harrows, and many other things, he will perhaps
be able to make himself after the first year or two. #
* T h e following* is a sketch (not perfect of course) of the present
prices of articles and of labour in this state:—Brick, from $3 50 to $4 00
per thousand; pine boards, seasoned, from $20 to $30 per thousand feet; .
unseasoned, and from the rafts in the rivers, from $12 50 to $15 ; flooring- boards, at the saw-mills, 1£ inch thick, $1 25 per hundred feet;
weather boards, from 80 to 100 cents; walnut, for ceiling-, & c . $1 00 to
$1 5 0 ; linden, $1 25 ; roofing, 75 cts. Nails, by the keg, 10 cents per
pound ; glass, 5 or 6 dollars per hundred square feet* Carpenters' and
joiners' work is estimated by the day, the job, or the square,—that is,
one hundred square feet. Common workmen receive usually $1 00 a
day and board. Framing, when the timber is hewn, $1 00 per square;
roofing-, $1 50, when the materials are prepared; laying floors, $4 00
per sqare, including- dressing the plank; making doors, 50 cents per
pannel; window sash, 6 cents a light; laying brick, $2 00 per thousand;
putting on three coats of plaster when materials are found, including
hands to carry the mortar, and board, 12^ cents per square y a r d ; oil
costs by the barrel, 75 cents a gallon ; white lead, ground in oil, in kegs
of 28 pounds, from $3 50 to $4 00 per k e g ; the usual wages of mechanics is $1 00 per day and board ; master-workmen, mill-wrights, and
some others, charge higher ; scientific mill-wrights and machinists will
command from $2 00 to $3 00 per day ; common labourers receive $10
per month, or fifty cents a day ; men who can handle the broad axe, saw

ILLINOIS.

233

7. The climate of Illinois is delightful, and unquestionably healthy. If emigrants will choose favourable
situations, and be careful to have comfortable houses as
soon as possible, and dress warmly when sudden changes
from hot to cold weather are occurring, and not expose
themselves to inclement weather, they will have good
health. The summers and autumns are generally dry and
warm,—more so than in the Atlantic states. The diseases
which prevail are those which are common in the western
states in the same parallels of latitude. Bilious fever, in
its various types, is the most noted. By timely attention,
it is generally a manageable disease. It is far from being
the case that even emigrants from the East, generally have
a seasoning of sickness before they become accustomed to
the climate.
8. Taken as a whole, this state is one of great fertility
of soil, and capable of sustaining a vast population. It has
the finest situation of all the western states. It is sufficiently remote from the mountains which bound each side
of the Valley, to have a climate little affected by them.
It has milder winters than those states which border the
mountainous ranges. This is a country of vast and beautiful plains, with noble streams.
9. There is a great demand in this state for good teachers of every gradation, from the infant school instructer,
to the teacher of an academy or high school. And although their wages may not be as high as in the East,
yet it is to be considered that their expenses are far less.
10. The eastern emigrant will find warm-hearted friends
in every neighbourhood in this state. The people of the
West have much plain and blunt, but sincere hospitality.
And any emigrant who comes among them with a disposition to be pleased with the country and its inhabitants,—•
or plane, though they are not carpenters, receive 75 cents per dayThere is great encouragement to good mechanics in the denser settlements of the state. Many mechanics are farmers also.
T h e preceding statement is taken from Mr. Peck's Guide to Emigrants. I would add that these, prices are substantially the same as
those of Indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Missouri.
T h e y are the prices which prevail in the interior, and smaller towns.
Those of the large towns and cities, are, of course, considerably higher,
as it respects many items above named.
20*

234

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

to partake of their hospitality cheerfully,—to make no
invidious comparisons,—to assume no airs of distinction,
—and in a word, to feel at home in this region, where, of
course, every thing is very different from what he has been
accustomed to, will be truly welcome. Fastidious and
reserved manners, a disposition to be forever unfavourably
contrasting the West with the East,—and to find fault
with every thing around him,—will speedily render any
emigrant an object of dislike and neglect.
11. At the late census the population of this state was
157,445. As that enumeration took place two years ago,
and there has been two years' emigration added since, it
would be safe to estimate the present population at near
200,000.
12. The history of this state may be very briefly given.
In the year 1673, the country along the Mississippi and
Illinois was discovered by Marquette and Joliette, who
ad been sent to explore it by M. Talon, the Governor of
Canada. In I683,Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and other villages
were built. The French retained this country until 1763,
when it was ceded to Great Britain. In 1783, it became
a part of the United States, and formed a portion of the
territory of Virginia. In 1787, it was included with
Indiana and Ohio, under the title of the Territory N . W.
of the Ohio. In 1801, it was included with Indiana as a
part of that territory. In 1809, it was organized as a
separate territory. And in 1818, Illinois became one of
the United States.*
* In some portions of the preceding account of Illinois, the author
has derived much aid from Mr. Peck's very valuable work, entitled,—
" A Guide to Emigrants." &c. This work relates chiefly to Illinois
and Missouri.

MISSOURI.

235

CHAPTER XIX.
MISSOURI.
MISSOURI is bounded north by the Sioux District; east
by the Mississippi river, which separates it from Illinois,
Kentucky, and Tennessee ; south by Arkansas Territory ;
and west by the Osage and Sioux Districts, which are
unorganized portions of the territory of the United States.
It extends from N. lat. 36° to 40° 36' ; and from W.
long. 11° 47' to 17° 32'. Its area is 65,500 square miles,
or 41,920,000 acres.
The Mississippi River runs 550 miles along the eastern
border of this state ; whilst the Missouri River flows 384
miles through it, and enters the Mississippi.
The western line of this state is the meridian which
passes through the point of junction of the Kansas and the
Missouri.
Jefferson City, on the Missouri river, is the capital oi
the state.
TABLE OF THE COUNTIES ANEL COUNTY TOWNS.
COUNTIES.

Boone,
Callaway,
Chariton,
Clay,
Cole,
Cooper,
Cape Girardeau,
Crawford,
Franklin,
Gasconade,
Howard,
Jackson,
Jefferson,
L a Fayette,
Lincoln,
Madison,

POPULATION
SITUATION. IN 1830.

-

m
m

n m
n w
m
m
se
e m
tn
m
w
e
w
e

•

COUNTY TO\YNS.

8,859 1 Columbia,
6,159 Fulton,
1,780 Chariton,
5,338 Liberty,
3,023 JEFFERSON CITY.
5,904 Boone ville,
7,445 Jackson,
1,721 Little Piney,
3,484 Union,
1,545 Gasconade,
10,854 Fayette,
2,823 Independence,
2,592 Herculaneum,
2,912 Lexington,
4,059 Troy, m
2,371 Fredericktown,

Distance
Jefferson City.
56
32
79
190

' from

51
208
98
79
47
65
177
164
138
97
170

236

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
(Table

COUNTIES.

SITUATION.

Continued.)

POPULATION
IN 1830.

COUNTY

TOWNS.

Distance
from Jefferson City.
"""190
'
67
278
187
132
167
96
149
123
134
168
152
85
236
127
200

1
Marion,
ne
4,837 ) Palmyra,
Montgomery,
em
3,902 Lewistown,
N e w Madrid,
se
2,350 New Madrid,
Perry,
3,349 Perryville,
e
Pike,
ne
6,129 Bowling Green,
Ralls,
ne
4,375 New London,
Randolph,
n m
2.942 Randolph,
n
l 2,657 Richmond,
Ray,
St. Charles,
e
4,320 St. Charles,
St. Louis,
e
14,125 St. Louis,
St. Genevieve,
e
2,186 St. Genevieve,
St. Francois,
s em
2,366 Farmington,
Saline,
nm
2,873 Walnut Farm,
Scott,
se
2,136 Benton,
1
Washington,
em
6,784 Potosi,
Wayne,
s
\ 3,264 Greenville,
Total, 32 Counties, | 140,455 inhabitants,
Of whom 25,091 are slaves, 569 free coloured people, and 114,795
whites.
The following new counties have been made since the
census, of 1830 :
Counties.
Audrain,
Clarke,
Lewis,
Monroe,
Ripley,
Stoddard,

Situation.
em
ne
ne
n em
sw
se

County Towns.

L a Grange.
Paris.

POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Population. \
Increase.
In 1810, - 19,833 I From 1810 to 1820, - 46,753
* 1820, - 66,586
' 1820 ' 1830, - 73,869
< 1830, - 140,455
GOVERNMENT. Governor—term of office four y e a r s salary §1,500 per annum. Lieutenant Governor is President of the Senate.
LEGISLATURE. The legislative power is vested in a
General Assembly, consisting of a Senate and a House of
Representatives. The members of the former body are

MISS0UKI.

237

#

elected for four years ; the members of the latter, for two
years. Every county is entitled to one representative ;«—
but the whole number can never exceed 100 members.—
The senators are chosen by districts. The constitutional
number is not less than 14 nor more than 33. The present number of senators is 18 and of representatives 49.
The elections for senators and representatives are held
biennially, and for governor and lieutenant governor once
in four years, on the first Monday in August.
The Legislature meets every second year (at the City
of Jefferson,) on the first Monday in November.
JUDICIARY. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme
Court, Circuit Courts, and such other inferior tribunals as
the General Assembly may, from time to time, establish.
The Judges are appointed by the governor, by and with
the consent of the senate ; and they hold their offices during good behaviour, but not beyond the age of 65 years.
The Supreme Court consists of a presiding judge and
two associate judges , the salary of each #1,100 per an*
num.
There are five Circuit Courts and as many Judges.—
The salary of each is $1,000 per annum.
The Constitution of this state was formed at St, Louis
in 1820.
Surface of the Country.—The surface of this state is
greatly diversified. The alluvial bottoms are level. In
the middle part rises a hilly region, extending from St.
Genevive south-westward into Arkansas, and is the commencement of the Ozark or Masserne Mountains of that
territory. The northern part is undulating, but no where
approaching what may, with propriety, be called mountainous.
Extensive prairies stretch out in the western
and northern parts of this state. Even the St. Genevive
hills are marked with this character, and have the appearance, in places, of extensive uncultivated fields. The mine
region, which lies about 70 miles south-west of St. Louis
is hilly, and a considerable portion of the state lying south
of the Missouri and Osage rivers, is of the same character,
and is in many places, marked with flint knobs of conside*One half of the Senators are elected at each general election, which
occurs biennially.

238

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

rable elevation. The country between the Mississippi and
Missouri rivers is delightfully undulating and variegated.
The prairies, which are of variable widths, are generally
fertile. The Mississippi is skirted with many rich alluvial
prairies, as well as extensive tracts of heavily timbered
land.
Soil*—There is a great extent of very fertile land in
this state. The alluvial bottoms, and much of the upland,
whether timbered or prairie, is of the very finest quality.
Whilst much that is second rate is admirably fit for cultivation, and produces abundantly. There is also much
surface in this state, on the highest hills, and the flinty
knobs in the south-western part, and a considerable extent
of swampy land which commences on the Mississippi a few
miles below Cape Girardeau and stretches down into Arkansas, along some of the head branches of the St. Francis, which is not susceptible of cultivation. But as a whole,
this state has a vast quantity of very fertile and productive
land. The soil is loamy, friable, and easily cultivated, partaking much of a sandy nature moderated with the richest
Vegetable mould.
Productions.—The forests of this state embrace the
oak of several species, black and white walnut, yellow poplar, which here attains its largest size, ash, elm, hackberry, hickory, peccan, sycamore and cotton wood along the
streams, sugar tree, cypress in the south-eastern angle,
yellow pine, and cedar on the flint-hills, with an undergrowth of dogwood, paw-paw, grape vines, &c. &c. These
forests, as well as those of Illinois, and of the extended territory beyond, abound with game of various kinds—deer,
bears, panthers, wolves, wild turkies, &c. & c , which give
employment and sustenance to a semi-barbarian population,
which is constantly pressing on the heels of the retreating
savages. These hunters settle either on the United States'
or Indian lands, and cultivating a little spot of ground, continue there, until the game has disappeared, or the proper
claimant of the land comes and " warns them off." I have
seen some of these men who could spend hour after hour in
detailing their achievements with the "rifle." One of
them who lives amid the Genevieve hills, told me that he
came from " Old Kentuck," many years since, and that
he had killed his sixteen hundred deer, three hundred bears,

MISSOURI.

239

a hundred buffaloes, and turkies and other less important
game in great numbers. When these men settle down upon the public lands, they are called, in the language of this
country, " Squatters." As it regards religion and moral
culture, they are most deplorably ignorant, and have little
concern about a future existence.
The cultivated productions of this state are corn, wheat,
rye, barley, buckwheat, tobacco, hemp, cotton in the southern counties, potatoes common and sweet, and garden vegetable of all sorts, which grow in the middle and southern
states. No soil is more favourable for gardens ; corn and
wheat grow finely in this state. Tobacco is a staple here.
Cotton grows well in the southern part, but is exported only
in very small quantities.
Peaches, pears, cherries, apricots, apples, gooseberries
&c. grow well in this state. Grapes may be cultivated to
great advantage in this state; for the vine here finds a congenial climate. Pal ma christi, poppy, rhubarb, and other
medicinal plants grow well here.
The fruits of the forest are here abundant, such as hickory-nuts, walnuts, peccans, plums, crab apples, hazlenuts,
pawpaws, mulberries, persimons, &c.
Minerals,—This state is rich in valuable minerals.
Lead is found in great abundance in Washington county,
and the region drained by the Maramec and Gasconade rivers, and by the upper streams of the White river. But
the principal "diggings" are included in an extent of thirty
miles in one direction, by fifteen in another. The centre of
this district is about 70 miles south west from St. Louis.
This lead region is hilly, and watered by numerous streams
which flow into the rivers just named. Some of these hills
have a fertile soil; but many of them are covered with flint
rocks, and are barren knobs. The valleys intervening possess much fertility.
The lead ore is found in detached masses, and not in
veins, or in situ, as mineralogists term it. The business of
digging is therefore very much of a lottery. The ore is of
that species which is called galena, and yields from 75 to
80 per cent. About 3,000,000 pounds are annually made,
giving employment to 1200 hands. The lead is hauled
chiefly to Herculaneum, and St. Genevieve on the Missis-

240

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

sippi river, and thence shipped on board steam boats to various distant places.
Many shot towers have been erected on the high bluffs
along the Mississippi, in the neighbourhood of the towns
above named, where large quantities of shot are manufactured. Recently, sheet lead has been manufactured. The
manufacture of white lead will probably be soon attempted.
In this lead region are found copper, zinc, manganese,
antimony, iron, calamine, cobalt, &c. These lead mines
were wrought by the French 100 years ago. This region
could furnish lead enough for the whole of the United
States.
Salt is made at Boone's Lick, and several other places
in the state.
Coal of a bituminous kind is found abundantly in this
state, especially along the Missouri, and will be invaluable
as a fuel, in this region of prairies. Gypsum, marble, chalk,
ochres of various colours, nitre, pumice stone, and barytes,
are found in this state.
Iron is manufactured in several places. Iron ore is very
abundant throughout the state. The exports of this state
are lead, flour, corn, hides, buffalo skins and tongues, furs,
lumber, salted beef, pork, venison, &c» &c.
Deer, bears, wolves, and panthers are common. The
buffalo and elk have retired to the region lying beyond this
state. Water fowls are abundant, such as geese, ducks,
swans, &c. Prairie hens, partridges, pigeons, turkies, &c.
are numerous.
This is the country for raising cattle, horses, hogs, and
sheep. Vast herds of cattle are raised on the western borders of the state ; and thousands are there slaughtered and
the meat salted, and exported by way of New-Orleans to
the eastern states, or to the West Indies. Whilst the tallow, and the hides preserved in a dried state, are sent to
the tanneries in the upper part of the Valley, or to the eastern cities. The extensive prairies of this entire region, will
make it always the land of great pastoral wealth. From
this part of our country, the markets of Philadelphia and
Baltimore, and other Atlantic cities, will derive many of
their supplies; whilst our shipping will here receive its
salted and jerked beef.
Rivers.—No other state in our country has as many no-

MISSOURI.

241

ble rivers as Missouri. The Mississippi rolls along its border more than 500 miles. The great Missouri intersects
it. The Osage and Maramec increase its navigable facilities ; whilst the St. Francis and White rivers rise in its
southern part.
The Missouri rises within the ridges of the Oregon
mountains, through a distance of several degrees of latitude.
The highest branches are Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin rivers, which flow almost due north within these mountains. After their junction, the Missouri still flows north,
receiving Dearborn and other small rivers. It then turns
towards the east, and receives Maria's river from the north.
Above the entrance of that stream, are stupendous falls in
the Missouri. For the distance of 17 miles the river descends most rapidly. There are several perpendicular cataracts ; the first of 98 feet; the second 19 feet;. the third
47 ; and the fourth 26. After receiving Maria's river, its
course is a little north of east until it receives the Little
Missouri. In the upper part of its course, it receives more
than 20 considerable streams, the largest of which is the
Yellow Stone, which is nearly as large as the Missouri,
and rises in the same region. Its length is several hundred miles. It flows through a fertile and heavily timbered
country.
After the junction of the Missouri and the White Earth
River, the general course of the Missouri is south-east,
until it reaches the western boundary of this state at the
junction of the Kansas. The number of the confluents
which it receives in this distance is great. Some of these
tributaries are very large. The Platte is reckoned to be
2000 miles long, and the Kansas 1200. The greater
number of these branches come in from the west. Those
which flow from the east, are generally short and small
streams.
The immense length of the Missouri may be readily believed, when we learn that the mouth of the Yellow Stone
is 1800 miles above the junction of the Missouri with the
Mississippi. At the junction of the Yellow Stone and the
Missouri is a fort, which is one of the centres of the operations of the Western Branch of the American Fur Company's business.
Within this state, the Missouri River pursues a course
21

242

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

somewhat south of east, and enters the Mississippi, almost
at right angles, about 200 miles above the junction of the
latter with the Ohio. The Osage, Gasconade, and Mine
rivers, are the principal streams which enter the Missouri
from the south, within the limits of this state ; whilst rom
the north its main confluents are Grand, Chariton, Tyber,
and Rock rivers.
Besides the Missouri, the Mississippi receives in this
state a large number of tributaries, which are generally
small. The most considerable are the Maramec, which is
200 miles long, Cuivre, Salt River, Fabius, Wyaconda,
and Des Moines.
It is remarkable that the Missouri, although it receives
so many and large tributaries, is, during a large part of
the year, a comparatively shallow stream, scarcely affording water enough, in some places, for safe steam-boat navigation. The causes of this fact are, first, its running
through a great extent of country destitute of timber, which
occasions during summer a constant and great evaporation
—and, second, a large portion of its waters are absorbed
by its extensive alluvial and porous banks.
The Missouri is a remarkable river in every respect. It
has a powerful current. Its waters are always muddy. It
is constantly changing its channel. Its whole course is a
regular succession of great bends, or meanderings. Its
waters are wholesome ; and, it is said, are more easily
preserved cool and fit to drink, than other waters are.
Towns.—The capital of the state is the CITY OF J E F FERSON, which stands on the right or south bank of the
Missouri, a few miles above the entrance of the Osage,
134 miles west of St. Louis, and 990 west of Washington
City. It is a small town, and no way remarkable, excepting as the seat of government for the state—to which
honour it prefers no other claim than that it is central.
Congress has granted to this state 2449 acres for the seat
of government. The sale of this land will erect the public
buildings of the state.
Numerous villages and towns are springing up along the
banks of the Mississippi, in its whole course in this state,
and on the Missouri, and their principal tributaries. Some
of these I shall mention. Along the Mississippi, and in its
vicinity, stand New Madrid, Cape Girardeau, Jackson,

MISSOURI.

243

Perryville, St. Genevieve, Herculaneum, Vide Poche, St.
Louis, Alexandria, New London, Palmyra, Hannibal,
Wyaconda, & c . ; and on the Missouri and near it, are St.
Charles, Florissant, Jefferson City, Franklin, Booneville,
Chariton, Lexington, Bluffton, Liberty, &e.
In ascending the Mississippi River from the mouth of
the Ohio, several towns are seen in succession, on each
side of the river, after having passed 50 miles.
CAPE GIRARDEAU is the first town on the Missouri
side. It is a small place, but will eventually be one of
much importance. It is situated on a bluff of considerable
elevation, and a rich country spreads out from it. It is
50 miles from the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi.
The next place of consequence, is St. Genevieve, one hundred and twenty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. This
town stands a mile from the river, on one of the most
beautiful alluvial bottoms in the West. This bottom land
is cultivated, and contains several thousand acres. The
river is at present encroaching upon it every year. It has
already washed away about five hundred acres. St. Genevieve is an old French town, and is settled almost entirely
by French, who came originally from Canada. The town
presents a very singular appearance, from the unusual
structure of the houses, they being chiefly of wood, low,
and almost surrounded with porches. The population i s
about twelve hundred. The next important town is Herculaneum, which is on a small alluvial bottom, environed
by high bluffs, the tops of which are surmounted with shot
towers, where vast quantities of shot are manufactured.
It is from this place and St. Genevieve, that the lead which
is made at the lead mines in Washington county, about
thirty-five miles west or south-west from this point, is exported by the steam and other boats. Herculaneum is a
very small place. It is thirty miles below St. Louis.
The next place which arrests the attention of the traveller, is Jefferson Barracks, ten miles below St. Louis.
The Arsenal is still nearer to that city. This is the most
important military post in the West. It is immediately on
the bank of the river. The buildings are all of stone, and
sufficient to accommodate from five hundred to seven hundred men.
The next place which one would notice on the right or

244

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

western bank, is a French town called Carondelet on the
maps, but here called universally, Vide Poche (Empty
Pocket.) It contains many small houses, and is inhabited
by French, or rather a mixture of French and Indian,
called by boatmen of this region, Gumbo French, They
have their gardens, and live by selling vegetables, wood,
&c. to the people of St. Louis. Nearly opposite, on the
Illinois side, stands Caholcia, next to Detroit the oldest
French settlement in this region.
But ST. LOUIS is by far the most important place in all
this part of the Valley of the Mississippi. This city is
1,200 miles by the course of the river above New Orleans,
and is next to that city, the largest and most commercial
town on the Mississippi. It is 630 miles by water, and
267 by land, from Louisville, 350 by land from Cincinnati,
856 from Washington City, and 134 from the seat of government of the state. It stands on the western side of
the Mississippi, near two hundred miles from its junction
with the Ohio, .eighteen miles below the Missouri, and
thirty-eight below the mouth of the Illinois. This city is
growing rapidly in importance. Situated on an elevated
bank, it ig&bovfe the overflow of the river, and must prove
a healthy place, especially as the small ponds in its vicinity
are becoming drained. Two streets parallel with the
river are on the first bank ; the rest of the city stands upon
the second bank, which spreads out into a vast plain to the
west. The streets in the old part of the city are rather
too narrow for convenience. But it is altogether a place
of great business. It is the centre of trade for the states
of Missouri and Illinois, and indeed for the Valleys of the
upper Mississippi and Missouri, and it is nearly in the centre of the entire Valley of the Mississippi. The houses
which have been built by the American part of the population, which greatly predominates over the French, and
is now more than two-thirds of the whole, are principally
of brick. The present population is about seven thousand.
The French population is Catholic. They have a large
brick Cathedral.
The Methodist and Presbyterian
churches are flourishing. Those of the Episcopalians and
Baptists are smaller, but very respectable. The latter
have a church of coloured people also..

MISSOURI.

245

The Court House, Market, College, Academy, Churches,
& c , are the chief public buildings of this city.
One of the greatest curiosities here is the American Fur
Company's Establishment, where thousands of skins may
be seen at once, such as buffalo, deer, &c. &c. brought
down the Mississippi and Missouri. They employ at present about one thousand men in this branch of the company, as hunters, trappers, &c. Their principal post on
the Missouri is at the mouth of the Yellow Stone, 1,800
miles above this place. In the summer of 1831, their
steam-boat, the Yellow Stone, returned from a trip up^the
Missouri, up which she went 1,400 miles, (but could not
reach the Yellow Stone, as contemplated, on account of
the low state of the river,) bringing a great number of
skins, and about nine thousand buffalo tongues, dried of
course, and in a fine state of preservation. What a sacrifice of that noble animal there must have been, and only,
or chiefly, for their hides and tongues ! This branch of
the American Fur Company is managed by Mr. Choteau.
The American Fur Company has its head quarters at
New-York, and was founded by John Jacob Astor and
others many years ago. Mackinaw is the centre of the
operations for the northern branch ; as St. Louis is for
those of the western.
Last summer the American Fur Company's steam-boats
ascended to the mouth of the Yellow-Stone River; and
this year (1833,) they have ascended 2100 miles from
the mouth of Missouri, being three hundred miles above
the entrance of the Yellow-Stone. In very high waters,
it is ascertained, they may go even higher up this noble
river.
This city was founded in 1764, by Pierre Laclade,
Maxan, and Company. For a long period it was only a
trading post; it is now flourishing greatly.
I have seen no place in the West, save New-Orleans,
that bids fairer to become an immense city than St. Lowis
does. When the vallies of the Upper Mississippi and
Missouri become populous,—and they will in less than 50
years,—and when the canals are made which will one day
connect, at various points, the Mississippi with the lakes,
this city must be a very large one. There is no want ot
room on the elevated and level alluvial and secondary bot21*

246

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

toms upon which it so beautifully stands., And it is always
accessible to steam-boats, with the exception of from four
to six weeks in the winter, when the Mississippi is commonly frozen over.
A traveller will find a greater variety of character in
this city than in any other in the Valley of the Mississippi,
excepting the city of New Orleans. Americans, from all
the states, French, Germans, Spaniards, and Indians of
various tribes, are to be seen here. A great moral change
is going forward here. The influence of pure religion is
gaining ground; there is a large number of good men here.
The savage custom of duelling is disappearing, although
there have been one or two tragical scenes of this sort
within two or three years. I know not a more pleasant
city in the West than St. Louis, and it will soon be a very
large one.
The amount of business done here is very great. As
this is the emporium of trade for an immense region, and
the depot of the merchandize and productions received at
it, and exported from it, there must be a great number of
boats employed here. Besides the flat and keel boats,
which are very numerous, I have seen twenty steam-boats
lying along the wharves of this city at once. Steam-boats
from every part of the Valley of the Mississippi visit this
place, besides those boats which may be called regular
traders or packets, between this place and various others,
—of which the following is a brief enumeration.
Last summer, there were 6 steam-boats regularly employed between St. Louis and New-Orleans, besides many
others which occasionally ran between these places. A
trip from one place to the other and back again, usually
occupies 24 days. The shortest time in which one was
over made, was 18 days. The usual fare for cabin passengers descending, is $ 2 0 ; ascending, $25 ; for deck passengers, $5, either way. Freight, per 100 lbs. descending,
37 i cents; ascending, 62^ cents.
From St. Louis to Louisville, 630 miles, at least 10
steam-boats run regularly, besides a far greater number
which run occasionally. Usual time of a trip, 10 or 11
days—the passage each way being somewhat more than
three days—depending, of course, on circumstances, speed

MISSOURI.

247

of the boat, state of the water, &c. The fare of the cabin
passengers is now $12, either way ; deck passengers $4.
Freight about 25 cents per 100 lbs. Some of these boats
run up regularly to Cincinnati, commonly reckoned 150
miles above Louisville.
From St. Louis to Fever River, about 480 miles, (according to the boatmen,) there run as many as 3 or 4
steam-boats regularly, and many occasionally.
Time
occupied by a trip, about 10 days. Fare for cabin passengers, ascending, $12—descending $9. The route of some
of the boats extends occasionally up to St. Peter's River
and St. Anthony's Falls, 400 miles further.
Several boats run up the Missouri to Franklin, 200
miles; and to Fort Leavenworth, 200 miles further.
Freight to Franklin, from 50 to 75 cents per 100 lbs.; and
to Fort Leavenworth from $1 00 to $1 50 ; from Franklin
down, 25 cents per 100 lbs. A steam-boat belonging to
the American Fur Company has been built, for the purpose
of running up to the mouth of the Yellow Stone.
There are several steam-boats which run regularly,
and many occasionally, from St. Louis to various places,
—Beardstown, Pekin, Peoria, &c.—on the Illinois River.
It is not an uncommon thing now to see more than 20
steam-boats advertised at St. Louis at one time, to start
for various places throughout the Valley of the Mississippi.
The exports from this city to the various places with
which it trades, are merchandize of all kinds, lead, furs,
skins, bread stuffs of all sorts, &c. &c. The value of these
exports is immense ; but I have no means of ascertaining
it accurately.
NEW MADRID, on the Mississippi, 65 miles below the
mouth of the Ohio, is a small place, but well known as a
place where boats stop on their way down the river. It
was injured by earthquakes in 1811-12.
ST. CHARLES, on the Missouri, twenty miles from its
mouth, and the same distance north-west from St. Louis, is
a considerable town.
Education.—There is no public system of common
schools established in this state. Congress has appropriated 1,086,639 acres for this purpose; besides 46,080
acres for Colleges, Universities, &c. to be disposed of by

248

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

the Legislature of the state. The saline reservations
which Congress has given to this state, amount to 46,080
acres, which will probably be devoted to education.
Common schools are maintained to a greater or less extent, in every neighborhood of sufficient population. There
are several Catholic Seminaries for youth of both sexes in
this state, and two or three Academies, which are well
conducted—and the number is increasing. There are two
Colleges in this state, which I shall notice hereafter.
GENERAL REMARKS.—Many of the remarks which were,

made in reference to the state of Illinois, are applicable to
Missouri. The climate, soil, and productions of both states
are so similar, that they may be rightly considered identical.
1. The population of Missouri is rapidly increasing.—
The emigrants are chiefly from Kentucky, Tennessee,
Virginia and North Caroli na j but one may also find here
the natives of almost every state. The settlements extend
along the principal rivers, and back into the country to a
considerable distance.
2. The exuberance of the soil,—the pleasantness of the
climate,—and the great facilities for trade by means of its
numerous navigable streams, will render this state a most
desirable residence for those who wish to emigrate to the
West. Those who resolve to remove from the southern
states, will probably prefer this state to any other of the
western states ; inasmuch as the climate is similar in many
respects to that to which they have been accustomed.
And as slavery is at present tolerated here, many will be
induced to remove from the South to this state, because
they can carry their slaves with them.
3. There are in this state 34,547,152 acres of public
land, to which the Indian claim has been extinguished ;
and 3,744,000 acres to which that title is not yet extinguished, but which will probably be so, at no distant day.*
From this statement the reader will perceive what a vast
amount of land in this state is for sale at the low price of
one dollar and a quarter per acre,—the rate at which
public land may now be obtained.
* Since the above was written, Congress has passed an act to make
further purchases of the Indian claims in Missouri, Illinois, Indiana,
Michigan and Ohio.

249

MISSOURI.

The following is a list of the public land offices, with
the names of the Registers and Receivers of the public
moneys—
Places where
opened.
St. Louis
Fayette
Jackson
Palmyra
Lexington

Registers*

Receivers.

William Christy
Hampton L. Boon
George Bullett
Wm. Wright
Finis Edwing

Samuel Morry
Uriel Sebre e
John Hays
Wm. Blakey
Edw. M. Ryland

Partially cultivated lands maybe purchased in this state,
as in all other western states, for very reasonable prices*
4. * Manufactories of various kinds are springing up in
this state, and will afford encouragement to mechanics to
remove to this portion of our country. There is an iron
foundry at St. Louis, and a marine railway for the repairing of steam boats. The building of steam boats, and the
making of machinery, will soon give employment to many
artizans who are acquainted with that business.
5. There is a decided moral change going on throughout this state, which will render it a desirable residence
for virtuous and intelligent emigrants from the East. It
was to be expected, that at first many persons of a reckless
character would resort to this new and remote country, to
escape from the restraints of civilization and religion*
But owing to the increase of the number of good men,
and the efforts which are successfully making by the
friends of religion and knowledge, of every name, bad influence is counteracted by that of another sort. An interest is awaking on the subject of education. The legislature of the state will probably soon lay the foundation of
a school fund, by the sales of public land.
6. The French settlements along the Mississippi and
Missouri, in this state, have a population of a very peculiar
character. The French here are an amiable, quiet, unenterprising people. They are generally poor, simple in
their manners, contented and frugal, They retain their
own language, save that it is somewhat corrupted from
their intercourse with Americans. They are all Roman
Catholics. Many of the men are employed by the Ame-

250

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

rican Fur Company, as hunters and trappers. This is a
mode of life which their fathers pursued in this wide and
then wild region; and it is one in which they themselves
find equal delight. It is not uncommon for those who go
on hunting excursions to the Oregon mountains, to be absent from their friends several years, living in the meanwhile among the buffalos, the elks, the bears and the Indians.
7. Emigrants from the East, as well as from Europe,
will generally go to this state by steam boats from Pittsburg and other places on the Ohio, or from New Orleans.
When the Mississippi becomes connected with Lake Michigan by the Illinois and Michigan canal and rail-road, thousands of emigrants will remove to this state by the Lakes.
8. Missouri formerly made a part of the country of
Louisiana, which was purchased from France in 1803. In
1804 Louisiana was divided by an act of Congress: the
portion lying south of the 33d degree of N . lat. was styled
the " Territory of Orleans," and the residue, the " District
of Louisiana." In 1805, the District of Louisiana was erected into a territorial government, under the name of the
"Territory of Louisiana;" and in 1812, its name was
changed to the "Territory of Missouri." In 1821, a part
of this territory was admitted into the Union as an inde*
pendent state, under the name of Missouri.
During the year 1811, this country suffered much through
sickness, as it has occasionally done, to a far more limited
extent, since. The late war with Great Britain, and the
gloomy years of depression in business from 1817 to 1824,
retarded the increase of this state for a while. But now
prosperity has beamed upon this state for several years,
and health and plenty exist throughout its borders.
Next to Virginia, it is the largest state in the Union.
And it is destined to become exceedingly populous, rich,
and powerful.
9* I cannot forbear to add, that strong hopes are entertained, that at no very distant day, and in a way perfectly
consistent with the rights which are secured to individuals
by the Constitution under which we live, slavery will come
to an end in this state, and also in Kentucky and Tennessee,

MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

251

CHAPTER XX.
The Mississippi River and its Scenery—Captain Shreve's Snag" Boat.—
Arkansas.—The Regions which lie North of Illinois and Missouri
and West of Missouri and Arkansas.

FROM the mouth of the Missouri, to its entrance into the
Gulf of Mexico, the Mississippi runs about 1250 miles. The
width varies from a mile and a half to three quarters of a
mile, which may be said to be its average width. Its current is rapid for nearly 900 miles of that distance, and only
becomes less so as it approaches the vicinity of Natchez,
No person, who has not seen it, can have a correct idea of
the whirling, boiling motion of its waters, occasioned by
their immense volume meeting with some obstruction in
the bottom or sides of the channel. Its bends are uniform,
and on a large scale. And whilst they add to its length,
they increase its beauty, and diminish the force of its current, which is a great obstacle to ascending boats.
From the entrance of the Missouri to that of the Ohio, is
a distance of about 200 miles. The scenery along this portion of the Mississippi is highly interesting. The immediate
vale through which the river flows, is, on an average, nearly
8 miles in width, and is bounded on each side by high bluffs,
generally of secondary limestone. The river runs generally near to one line of bluffs or the other, and leaves on the
opposite side an extensive alluvial bottom of the richest soil,
covered with lofty forests on the margin of the river, and
near the bluffs skirted with prairies. The channel of the
river is chiefly along the western bluffs during this entire
distance. The appearance of these bluffs is often singular
and sublime. They often seem to shoot up towards the heavens like the lofty battlements and pinnacles of an ancient
city, exhibiting along the river a perpendicular mass of
hoary rocks of two or three hundred feet in height. These
bluffs, especially in the vicinity of St. Genevieve and
Herculaneum, are objects of deep interest to the traveller,

252

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

as he passes in a steam boat. In one place, one of these
bluffs raises his lofty head in the midst of the waves of the
Father of Waters, in the shape and under the appropriate
designation of the Grand Tower.
About thirty miles above the mouth of the Ohio, these
bluffs disappear from the view of the voyager, on account
of their remoteness from the Mississippi.
From the entrance of the Ohio to the gulf of Mexico,
the vale through which the Mississippi runs becomes wider
and wider, from fifty to a hundred and fifty miles. As far
as the eye can see, in the greater part of this distance, not
a hill or bluff can be seen rising above the level, uninterrupted alluvial bottom, covered with cotton wood, sycamore,
cypress, gum, &c. &c. which spreads out on each side,
save where the river occasionally seems to wander over to
the base of the " Chickasaw Bluffs," in West Tennessee,
and the " Walnut Hills," in the state of Mississippi, on the
eastern side.
From the mouth of the Missouri to the entrance of the
Yazoo, there are, at long intervals, small towns and villages
on the banks of this river which interrupt the otherwise
continued forests which border this great stream. From
the Yazoo to St. Francisville, towns and villages, with cultivated fields and beautiful villas, begin to appear frequently along the banks. But from St. Francisville, to a considerable distance below New Orleans, the banks are covered with a succession of cotton and sugar plantations, with
their villas and " quarters" of negroes, &c. like a continued street divided by the magnificent volume of this immense river.
The general government has employed Captain-Shreve,
with a large number of men, for several years, in removing
the snags, and other similar obstructions to navigation, in
the rivers of the West. For the purpose of removing the
snags, (which are trees, many of them very large, sunk in
the river with their tops down stream, and their roots imbedded in the mud at the bottom) he has constructed a machine which answers the purpose admirably in many respects. He has put 4wo steamboats, constructed for this
purpose, together, by means of large and strong timbers
between them, from 10 to 15 feet long. The front beam
between them is about three or four feet above the water,

MISSISSIPPI KIVER, ETC.

253

and is very strong. The boats are low, small, strong, and
have engines of great power. The boatmen, who have
some strange name for almost every object, call this " Uncle Sam's Toothpuller." When they attack a snag, they
do it in this way. This double boat marches up the stream
with a tremendous pressure of steam, and takes the visible
part of the snag (which is the top of the tree) between her
bows, and by the strong cross beam, lifts it up, and as the
boat urges her way onward, the snag is raised up, until the
whole tree almost stands on its end. Then the boat stops,
holds it there, while the hands cut it in pieces of twenty or
thirty feet, and let them float away. It sometimes happens
that some of these snags, when really trees of four or five
feet in diameter at the lower end, and with immense roots
anchored fast in the bottom, are immoveable by Uncle Sam's
steam boat. In that case as much is cut away as can be.
As the stumps, or the lower parts, cannot always be removed, (for it would require the strength often steam boats
to move some of the largest, that have been for years imbedded in mud) the cutting off of the upper part, which is
visible when the water is low, creates some danger. For
when the water becomes low, and yet these stumps are invisible, they prove dangerous to steam boats. I am informed that one or two boats have been injured by this cause.
The captain has removed a vast number of snags from
the lower Mississippi and the Ohio; and is now at work in
the upper Mississippi, between the mouth of the Ohio and
St. Louis. His machine can do nothing, however, save
when the rivers are very low. During a large portion of
the year, the Heliopolis is laid by, to rest from her tremendous exertions. When not employed with the boat,
these men are engaged in cutting down the trees which
stand on the banks, upon which the Mississippi is encroaching, in order that they may not be carried away by the wa»
ter in an entire state, and so go to form new snags, and also
to keep the bank from being washed away rapidly; for
when the river encroaches upon a bank, and partly undermines large trees, their falling in carries away a large extent of the bank. Besides doing this, they have, in some
instances, cut small channels across the isthmuses of some
of the great bends in the lower Missisippi. The consequence is, that in high water, part of the stream runs down
22

254

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI,

these channels, and soon wears a deep and wide bed, and
so the length of the river is shortened several miles. In
the winter of 1830—31 eighteen miles were saved by a cutoff, in the great bend opposite the mouth of Red River. I
have sometimes, however, doubted the expediency of doing
this work. The Mississippi is rapid enough now, in all
reason, and these improvements as they are called, are adding greatly to its rapidity, by throwing the fall that is in
many miles into half a mile, in some cases. Any one can
see what must be the consequence. The Steamboats certainly do not gain much ,• as they lose by the increased difficulty in ascending, what they gain by the diminution of the
distance and the rapidity of descent. And as to making
the Mississippi much straighter, and consequently shorter,
it is all a vain attempt. It will run in a serpentine course
(I believe that it can be demonstrated that every river
without tides invariably does so) and although the efforts of
man, and indeed its own, may occasionally make a cut-off?
yet it is daily forming new bends, or increasing old ones.
Much has been said about the bends in the Ohio and Mississippi, and other western rivers; but they exist in every
river on earth, above the influence of strong tides, or where
the banks are not so rocky that they cannot be washed
away. Look at the Savannah, and all southern rivers. And
even several of those in New-England, with their granite
banks, have numerous and regular bends.
From the mouth of the Ohio to New Orleans, there are
125 islands in the Mississippi river, some of which are of
considerable size ; but they are generally too low and subject to inundation, to be very valuable for cultivation. They
are the abodes of the passing boatmen, and of the land animals and water fowls of this region.
From the entrance of the Missouri to the mouth of the
Mississippi, sixty rivers and creeks fall into this great recipient. The most important are the Maramec, Kaskaskia,
Muddy Creek, Ohio, Obion,-Forked Deer, Big Hatchie,
Wolf, St. Francis, White, Arkansas, Yazoo, Big Black,
Homochitto, and Red River.
And within the same distance, the principal cities and
towns are St. Louis, Vide Poche, Herculaneum, St. Genevieve, Columbus, New Madrid, Randolph, Memphis, Vicks-

MISSISSIPPI RIVER, ETC.

255

burg, Rodney, Natchez, St. Francisville, Baton Rouge, Ibberville, Donaldsonville, and New Orleans.
Having given the preceding description of the Mississippi River and its scenery, I now proceed to take a brief
notice of Arkansas Territory.

256

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ARKANSAS.

This Territory is bounded on the north by Missouri;—
east by the Mississippi river, separating it from Tennessee,
and Mississippi state ; south by Louisiana; and west by a
line drawn from the south-western corner of Missouri to
Fort Smith on the Arkansas river,—and thence by a meridian line to the Red River,—down Red River to the point
where the western limit of the U. States from the Sabine
to Red River intersects that stream,—and thence down that
line to the 33d degree of N . lat. Its southern line is the
33d degree of N . lat.; and northern 36° 30'. The number of square miles is 60,700, or 38,848,000 acres. It was
erected into a Territorial Government in 1819. The population, according to the recent census, is 30,388.

TABLE OF THE COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.
COUNTIES.

SITUATION.

Arkansas,
Clarke,
Conway,
Chicot,
Crawford,
Crittenden,
Hempstead,
Hotspring,
Independence,
Izard,
Jackson,
Jefferson,
La Fayette,
Lawrence,
Miller,
Monroe,
Phillips,
i

e
em
em
se
m
ne
s
m

Pope,

POPULATION
IN 1830.

COUNTY TOWNS.

1,426 Arkansas,
1
1,369 Clarke C. H.
982 Lewisburg,
1,165 Villemont,
2,440 Crawford C. H.1
1,272 Greenock, [H.
2,512 Hempstead C.
458 Warm Spring,
H
2,031 Batesville,
1,266 Izard C. H.
n
ne
333 Litchfield,
s em
772 Pine Bluffs,
s
748 Lafayette C.H.
ne
2,806 Jackson,
se
356 Miller C. H. j
e
461 Monroe C.IL
e
1,152 Helena,
n m , 1?483 Scotia>

Distance
from

Little Rock^

114
87
40
184
136
168
130
60
102
172
182
152
228
84
124
81

ARKANSAS.

{Table

COUNTIES.

Pulaski,
Sevier,
St. Francis,
Union,
Washington,

SITUATION.

m
sw
ne
s
nw

257

continued.)

POPULATION
IN 1830.

2,395
634
1,505
640
2,182

COUNTY TOWNS.

Distance
from
Little Rock.

L I T T L E ROCK,

Paraclifta,
Franklin,
Corea Fabre,
Fayetteville,

168
217

Total, 23 counties, | 30,388 inhabitants,
Ofwhom 4,576 are slaves, 141 free blacks, and 25,671
whites.
GOVERNMENT.—The Governor is appointed by the President, by and with the consent of the Senate,—salary,
$2,000 per annum , Secretary, do.—salary $1,000 per an*
num.
There is a Legislative Council consisting of five members ; and a House of Representatives comprising twentythree members, who are elected biennially, on the first
Monday in August; and they meet in the following October.
JUDICIARY.—There are four Judges, appointed by the
President, with the consent of the Senate. They hold Circuit Courts throughout the Territory. The salary of each
is $1,500. There is an Attorney and a Marshal for the
United States.
Surface of the Country.—This Territory possesses many remarkable features in its physical geography. In the
eastern part, along the Mississippi river, it is level, often
overflown by that noble river and its large confluents which
have their course through this territory ; in the middle part
it is undulating and broken, and in the western part almost
mountainous—the Masserne and Ozark mountains, lying
partly within this territory. There is, however, a large
extent of level and moderately uneven land in the middle
and western portions of the Territory.
Rivers.—The great river of this territory is the Arkansas which flows down from the Oregon mountains. Its length
has been estimated (probably without sufficient evidence,)
to be 2,500 miles. It receives no large tributary within
22*

258

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

this territory. It flows nearly through the central part of
it. St. Francis and White rivers, which rise in Missouri,
flow through the northern part of the territory ; whilst the
Ouachitta rises in the southern part and flows to the south.
The Red river flows through the south-western angle of
this territory. This territory possesses fine navigable
streams, and extraordinary advantages for commerce.—Every portion of it has a most direct and easy communication with New-Orleans, the great emporium of trade for
the whole Valley.
Soil.—The general features of this region are not well
explored. There is much land of astonishing fertility in
this territory, and the column of emigration has begun to
move in this direction. It will one day, unquestionably,
be a populous region. The Masserne mountains are prolific in minerals. Salt in abundance will be made in the
western part, la 1829-30, more than 10,000 bushels
were manufactured in this territory.
Productions.—Cotton is the staple of this territory.—
Corn and sweet-potatoes grow well. Wheat and other
small grain have not been cultivated to a great extent.
The apple does not flourish as well as the peach, which is
remarkably fine here. The wild fruits, grapes, plums, &c.
are abundant.
Towns.—The settlements are principally upon the
White River; along the Arkansas; and on the head
streams of Ouachitta, or, as it is pronounced, Washita.
There are several little villages along the Mississippi, the
chief of which are Helena and point Chicot, or Villemont,
as it is called on the maps.
The Post of Arkansas, or Arkansas, as it is called,
stands on the northern bank of the Arkansas river, 50
miles from its mouth. It was built a long time ago, and
is inhabited by about 600 people, mostly of French origin.
LITTLE ROCK is the capital of the territory. It stands
on ablution the south or right bank of the Arkansas river,
about 350 miles above its mouth, and 1068 miles from
Washington City. It is a small but pleasant town, and
has some fine society. It was a few years ago, as all this
country was, often a scene of shocking violence and fatal
rencontres between hostile individuals and parties. But at

259

ARKANSAS.

present, the morals of this place and of the whole territory
are improving.
There are several small villages in different parts of the
territory, but which are no way specially deserving a notice in this work. Around the court-house of each county
a little village is rising up, and at favourable points along
the rivers little towns are forming, which will at some
future day become important places.
Curiosities*—These are, 1. Sea shells in great quantities dispersed in the soil of extensive tracts of this territory. 2. The hot springs near the Ouachitta River. 3. The
quarry of oil stones near these springs. There are also
relics of antiquity found here similar to those which exist
in other parts of the Valley of the Mississippi.
GENERAL REMARKS.—1. This country contains much
fertile land; and also much, which, on account of its
swampy or its rocky and hilly surface, cannot be cultivated.
The tide of emigration is setting into this territory, from
Kentucky and Tennessee, and other western states. It
is a new country, and by no means well known. The
quantity of public land, to which the Indian title has been
extinguished, is 31,912,381 acres ; and there are 288,000
acres, to which the Indian title has not been extinguished.
Land Offices.

Batesville,
Little Rock,
Fayetteville,
Washington,

Registers.

Townsend Dickinson,
Bernard Smith,
Wm. M'Kenna,
Sam. P. Rutherford,

Receivers.

Caleb S. Manly,
B. S. Chambers,
| Matthew Leiper,
Dan. T. Wilter.

2. There is a decided moral improvement going on in
this territory. There is a considerable number of congregations formed by the labours of Methodists, Baptists,
Cumberland Presbyterians, Catholics, & c , and a healthful
influence is beginning to be created in many neighbourhoods. Congress has appropriated 950,258 acres of the
public lands in this territory for the promotion of common
schools, and 46,080 acres for colleges.
3. Those who emigrate to this Territory will generally
prefer to go to it by steam-boats, ascending the Arkansas
to Little Rock, if they prefer to settle in the interior; or

260

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

landing on the banks of the Mississippi river, if they prefer
the eastern part.

The Regions which lie North of Illinois and Missouri,
and Wes to/Missouri and Arkansas.
This immense part of the territory of the United States,
within the Valley of the Mississippi, has been divided by
geographers into five great districts, viz :—
Huron District, which lies north of the state of Illinois
and the Mississippi River, and reaches to Lake Superior
and the northern limit of the U. S. It embraces 120,975
square miles. It is, at present, attached to Michigan.
Sioux District, which lies between the Missouri and
Mississippi Rivers, and north of the state of Missouri, and
embraces 162,385 square miles.
Mandan District lies along the Missouri River, extending from the Sioux District north-westward to the sources
of that river, and embraces an area of 295,203 square
miles.
0%ark District lies immediately west of Arkansas territory, and contains 83,350 square miles.
Osage District lies west of the state of Missouri, and
embraces an area of 91,980 square miles. Making a total
of 753,893 square miles, which is much more than one
half of the entire area of the Valley of the Mississippi.
Respecting the character of these districts, as it regards
soil, & c , it is impossible to speak with much accuracy.
The country which lies west of Arkansas territory, to the
distance of about 200 miles, has much fine land. This is
the country to which the government is removing the Indians, placing the Choctaws between the Red River and
the Canadian Fort of Arkansas River ; the Cherokces,
between the Canadian and Arkansas Rivers; and the
Creeks, north of the Arkansas, and in immediate contiguity with the Osages. A large portion of the country
which lies west of the zone of 200 miles in width which I
have just named, is sterile prairies, with very narrow timbered alluvial bottom lands along the water courses.
A large portion of Huron District, especially the region

REGIONS NORTH AND WEST OF MISSOURI, ETC.

261

on the Ouisconsin, is fertile, and possesses great beauty
and many advantages as to navigable facilities, climate,
&c. The same may be said of a considerable portion of
the country which lies between the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. There is room enough in the region lying
along the Upper Mississippi, above Illinois and Missouri,
to form three or four states as large as Virginia.
It is said that there are some tracts of fine country on
the Yellow Stone and other of the upper branches of the
Missouri. But it is believed that a great extent of the
country along the Missouri, beginning 100 miles west of
the state of Missouri, is incapable of a dense population,
on account of the vast extent of the prairies. This will
probably be the case, at least for a long time to come.
Still, if these prairies should be found to be fertile (for this
country has been very imperfectly explored, excepting
along the banks of the Missouri and Arkansas Rivers,) at
a future day they will have a great population. Let the
fires be kept out of any portions of them, and these portions
will soon be covered with forests ; or it will be found there,
as in some other countries, that a vast amount of timber
is not absolutely necessary where ahundance of coal for
fuel exists, and where modes of agriculture or gracing may
be pursued, which will not require much fencing, especially
when something else may be substituted, This will be
the region of flocks of sheep, and herds of cattle and hor*
ees; and here will be the abodes of shepherds and herds*

men, like those of the. oriental countries* from tiare \mm*

262

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

CHAPTER XXL
MISSISSIPPI.

T H E state of Mississippi is bounded on the north by
Tennessee; east by Alabama; south by the Gulf ofMexico and Louisiana ; and west by Louisiana and Arkansas,
from which it is separated by the Mississippi River. The
Pearl River forms a portion of its western line, dividing
it from Louisiana, from the Rigolets to the 31st degree of
north latitude,—a distance of 60 miles. This state has a
line of coast of eighty miles along the Gulf of Mexico.
Mississippi extends. froniiN^tat. 30° 08' to 35° ; and
from W. long. 11° OS' yta L4° 26'. Its area is 47,680
square miles, or 30,515,200 ^icres. ,.
TABLE OF THE COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.
POPULADistance
TION
COUNTIES.
COUNTY TOWNS.
SITUAfrom
TION.
Jackson.
IN 1830.

Adams,
Amite.
Claiborne,
Copiah,
Covington,
Franklin,
Greene,
Hancock,
Hinds,
Jackson,
Jefferson,
Jones,
Lawrence,
Lowndes,
Madison,
Marion,
Monroe,

S XO i

sw
w
swm
s m
sw
se
!

S

m
se
sw
sm
I sm
litem
e
s

1 e

14,9371 Natchez,
7,934 Liberty,
9,787! Port Gibson,
7,001 Gallatin,
2,551 Williamsburg,
4,622 Meadville,
1,854 Leaksville,
1,962 Pearlington,
8,645 JACKSON,
1,792 Jackson C. H.
9,755 Fayette,
1,471 Ellisville,
5,293 Monticello,
3,173 Columbus,
4,973 Livingston,
3,691 Columbia,
1 3,861 Hamilton,

112
122
67
53
83
105
171
200
213
93
134
88
134
31
120
150

MISSISSIPPI.

263

{Table Continued.)
COUNTIES.

SITUATION.

POPULA- |
TION IN ( COUNTY TOWNS.

Perry,
se
l e
Pike,
Rankin,
w
1 sm
Simpson,
Warren,
w
10
Washington,
Wayne,
e
Wilkinson,
sw
* w I
Yazoo,
Total, 26 counties. |
Of whom 65,659 are
whites.

Distance
from
Jackson.

1830. 1
2,3001 Augusta,
137
5,402 Holmesville,
151
2,083 Brandon,
16
2,680 Westville,
56
7,861 Vicksburg,
54
1,976 Princeton,
119
2,781 Winchester,
165
11,686 Woodville,
148
6,550 jBenton,
1 64
136,621 inhabitants,
slaves, 519 free blacks, and 70,448

GOVERNMENT. The governor is elected for two years
—salary $2,500 per annum. Lieutenant Governor receives
$6 a day during the session of the legislature. The Secretary of State, Treasurer, and Auditor receive each
$1,200 per annum ; and the Attorney General $1,000.
The Legislative power is vested in a Senate and House
of Representatives, styled the General Assembly of the
State of Mississippi.
The members of the senate are
elected for three years, and the representatives annually.
The number of the representatives cannot be less than 37,
nor more than 100, as soon as the free population shall
amount to 80,000. The senate cannot consist of less than
one fourth, nor more than one third, as many as there are
representatives. The general election for the state takes
place on the first Monday and Tuesday of August. The
general assembly meets (at Jackson) annually on the first
Monday in November.
JUDICIARY. The Court of Chancery. Chancellor's
salary $2,000.
The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and four
associate Judges—the salary of each $2,000. The state
is divided into five districts, in which the Judges of the
Supreme Court severally hold circuit courts. These courts
have original jurisdiction in cases where the sum in dispute

264

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

exceeds $50 ; and appellate jurisdiction from the courts of
justices of the peace, where the sum exceeds $20. They
have also criminal jurisdiction. The county of Adams has
a separate criminal court, whose jurisdiction, however,
does not supersede that of the circuit court.
Every county has a probate court, and a county court
held by three Judges, of which the Probate Judge is the
presiding justice. This court takes cognizance of offences
committed by slaves, &c. The Judges hold their offices
during good behaviour, but not beyond the age of 65
years.
Imprisonment for debt is not allowed in this state, except in cases of a debtor who fraudulently withholds his
property from his creditors.
Surface of the Country.—Along the Mississippi River,
at various distances, there is a line of bluffs, in this state, of
from 50 to 150 feet in height, in some cases, still higher.
In some places these bluffs are washed by the river; in
other places they stand several miles from it. The portions which are contiguous to the river, are called by
different names, such as Walnut Hills, Grand Gulf Bluffs,
Natchez Bluffs, White Cliffs, and Loftus' Heights, &c.
The country beyond these bluffs spreads out into a
high, beautiful, and fertile table land, gently undulating
and productive. There is a zone of such land commencing
in Louisiana and extending through this state, parallel wTith
the Mississippi, into the state of Tennessee, interrupted
only by the streams which run through it. Its width is
from 10 to 30 or 40 miles.
Beyond this fertile belt of land, there stretches from
south to north, and reaches eastward to the Alabama line,
an extensive district of country, of various soil, but possessing much that is alluvial and fertile, contrasted with
much that is light and covered with pine. As a whole,
however, it possesses a great quantity of excellent land.
The southern, middle, and northern parts of this state
may be said to be beautifully undulating, with numerous
ravines and streams.
In its natural state, in which almost the entire state still
is, it was covered with a vast forest of oak, hickory, magnolia, sweet gum, ash, maple, yellow poplar, cypress in
the swampy alluvial Mississippi bottoms, pine, holley, &c.

MISSISSIPPI.

265

&c. with a great variety of underwood, grape vines, pawpaw, spice wood, &c.
The magnolia is frequently a tree of three feet in diameter in the south-western part of this state. The cypress
and swamp gum, are large in the swampy lands. Vast
quantities of cypress are floated down to New-Orleans
from this state. They are cut when the waters are high,
by the negroes in canoes, who cut them above their conelike like buttresses.
Productions*—In the early settlements near Natchez,
tobacco, indigo and cotton were successively staples.
The last named production has however prevailed for the
last 30 years. Corn is also produced, and would be abundant, if it were as valuable a crop as cotton. Peaches are
abundant. Sugar cane is cultivated in the southern part
of the state, but with only moderate success. The peach
is abundant. The orange grows here, but is often injured
by the climate. The fig also grows in the southern part.
This is an admirable country for the growth of garden
vegetables of almost all sorts.
The chief article for exportation from this state is cotton,
which is raised in great abundance. Corn is also exported,
for it here grows abundantly. Wheat is but little cultivated. This country is favourable for the raising of cattle,
horses and hogs. But in as much as cotton is found to be
more profitable as an article of cultivation than the raising
of any thing else, it absorbs almost the whole attention of
those who live on farms or plantations which possess a soil
suitable for its production.
Rivers. The great Mississippi River flows along the
western boundary of this state, a distance of 530 miles,
A large portion of its bank in this state is for a very considerable width an inundated swamp, covered with cypress,
and inhabited only at intervals, by those who cut wood
for the passing steam-boats. To a traveller who only sees
this state whilst passing along the Mississippi River, it
presents the most dreary and forbidding aspect, excepting
along the elevated and settled points of the bluffs which
immediately border the river.
Into the Missisippi River there flow, from this state, the
following named considerable streams. I shall mention
them in order, beginning at the northern end of the state.
23

266

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

The Yazoo rises in the northern part of the state, and
some of its eastern head streams interlock with the
sources of the Tombigbee. In its course towards the
south-west, it receives a number of considerable streams,
Yalo Busha, Buffalo Creek, Cold Water, &c. It falls
into the Mississippi twelve miles above Vicksburg, by a
mouth of 100 yards wide. Its whole length is more than 200
miles; about 50 of which it is navigable for large boats.
It flows through an elevated and pleasant and healthy
country. This river is distinguished for giving name to
the famous Yazoo speculation, which in its end was so
disastrous to the fortunes of many who were deceived
by it.
The next river is the Big Black, which rises in the
eastern part of the state, and falls into the Mississippi by
a mouth 40 yards wide, just above the Grand Gulf. It is
near 200 miles long by its course, and is navigable fifty
miles. Bayou Pierre is a small river which falls into the
Mississippi above Bruinsburg. There is a fertile country
bordering on this stream. The Homochitto is a small, but
pleasant stream, which falls into the Mississippi 43 miles
below Natchez. Below it, enters Buffalo Creek, nine
miles above Fort Adams, in the south western angle of the
state.
The Amite flows down from this state, through a broken
country, into Ibbervilie outlet, or Boyou Manshac, as it is
often called, 40 miles above Lake Maurepas. The Pearl
River rises in the southern part of the state, and flows by
a course of 150 or 200 miles, into the Rigolets or outlet
from Lake Ponchartrain into Borgne. There is a fine
healthy country, covered with pine and abounding with
springs, along this river.
It forms a part of the western
boundary of this state. Still, further east, flows the Pascagoula, parallel with the Pearl River on the west, and
the Tombigbee on the east. It is a stream of 200 miles
in length, having many branches, and navigable for boats
50 or 60 miles. It falls into the Gulf of Mexico by several
mouths.
The Tombigbee rises in the north-eastern part of this
state, and having drained a large, fertile, and beautiful region, it flows into the state of Alabama, and finally unites
with the Alabama River, in forming the Mobile River.

MISSISSIPPI.

267

By these various streams a boat navigation is opened
into the whole interior of the state, by which, in the winter and spring, many thousands of bales of cotton, besides
other products, are sent to the great emporium of the
Valley of the Mississippi.
TOWNS.—Jackson is the capital of the state. It stands
on the right or western bank of the Pearl River, 112 miles
north east from Natchez, and 1,035 from Washington city.
It is on the road from Natchez to Washington city. It is
a small but pleasant place, and improving in size and
wealth. Congress has granted 1,280 acres for the seat
of government.
NATCHEZ is the most important town in this state.
It
is situated on an elevated series of hills, about half a mile
from the Mississippi river, in north lat. 31 deg. 33 min.
The site of the town is undulating, and 200 or 300 feet
above the river.
The population is somewhat more than
3,000. It is a place of great wealth and business. The
society is good. Here are churches of Episcopalians,
Presbyterians, Methodists, Baptists, and Catholics. Along
the margin of the river and below the bluff upon which
the principal town stands, is what is called Natchez-belowthe-hill,—a collection of warehouses, boat stores, grogshops, &c. This town was the first place in the state
which was settled by white men.
It was founded by the
French in 1716, but was destroyed by the Indians in 1729.
The city of Natchez is one of the most beautiful places
in the Valley of the Mississippi. The principal part of
the city is more than two hundred feet above the Mississippi, and an extensive region spreads out on the east,
north and south. The streets are wide, and adorned with
the China tree. The houses of the wealthier inhabitants
are widely separated, each seeming to occupy a square,
surrounded with orange trees, palmetto, and other beautiful shrubbery. The public buildings are, the court-house,
churches, academy, &c. The inhabitants are distinguished
for their intelligence, refinement and hospitality. Many
of the wealthy planters of this region live a large portion
of their time in this city. It is in general healthy, but
has been occasionally visited by the yellow fever, when
that disease has visited New Orleans.
The prospect from the elevated site of this city over

268

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

the noble river, with its long line of flat boats, and its
steam boats constantly arriving or departing, the village
of Concordia opposite, and the vast country beyond, is enchanting beyond almost any other which I have ever
witnessed.
Natchez is 1,146 miles from the seat of government of
the United States; and 297 miles by the river above New
Orleans.
Monticello? Port Gibson on Bayou Pierre, Shieldsboro\
on the west side of the bay of St. Louis, G?*eenville, Woodville, Winchester, and Washington, are pleasant and
growing towns. Vicksburg, on the Mississippi, at the foot
of the Walnut Hills, and 100 miles above Natchez, is a
town of great business, which has sprung up within seven
years. Vast quantities of cotton are here shipped on
board steam-boats for New Orleans. The town rises from
the river up the sides of the Walnut Hills, in the most
romantic manner. Warrenton is nine or ten miles below
Vicksburg, on the bank of the Mississippi.
Besides these, there is a large number of pleasant villages springing up in this state.
Education,—This state has no common school system
established by law. But much interest is felt on the subject of education.
A fund is now accumulating from
"escheats, confiscations, fines," & c , the interest of which
is to be devoted to the education of poor children. Congress has appropriated 685,884 acres of the public land in
this state to the promotion of common schools; besides
46,080 acres for a college. There are several academies,,
and two colleges in this state.
GENERAL REMARKS.—1. The climate of this state may
be said, in the general, to be salubrious. Along the
swampy, alluvial, bottoms of the Mississippi River, it is of
course unhealthy, except to those who have become acclimated, by having lived there from their childhood. But
the interior of the state ? especially in the elevated and
broken parts of it, and the piney region in the south-eastern part, whose pure clear streams flow through a sandy
soil, are decidedly healthy. The heat of summer is long
sustained, and sometimes intense. The autumns, winters,
and springs, are fine seasons here.- The bilious fever, in
its various forms, is the most prevalent disease of thia

269

MISSISSIPPI.

country. It requires much care on the part of emigrants,
who are not accustomed to a southern climate, to live in
this stale with entire impunity, except in the most healthy
portions of it, during the summer.
2. The pursuits of the people are chiefly agricultural.
And although in this state, corn, tobacco, figs, sweet potatoes, rice, indigo, squashes, melons, plums, peaches, grapes
of many sorts, and various other vegetables and fruits, come
to full perfection, yet. they attract but little attention compared with cotton. The orange is cultivated in the southern part. But cotton is almost the only article cultivated
for exportation. And although the price of this article
has diminished from 25 and 30 cents per pound to ten or
fifteen cents, yet it is a profitable crop, and the cultivators
of it are doing well.
3. There are 21,211,465 acres of public land now for
sale in this state. There are also 6,529,280 acres, to
which the Indian title had not been unconditionally extinguished on the 2d of April, 1832, but which will be, in the
course of a year or two, it is expected. Making a total of
27,740,745 acres of public land now for sale, or about to
be soon. It will be perceived from this statement that a
very small portion of the land in this state is owned by
individuals ; and, as all the Choctaws and Chickasaws are
expected to remove during this summer and next, we may
expect that this state will soon become settled by emigrants
from the Atlantic and other portions of our country, especially from the southern part of it.
hand Offices, I
Mount Salus,
Choctaw,
Washington,

Registers.

1

Receivers,

I Thos. L. Sumerall, | Hanson Alsburg,
Gideon Fitz,
I George Crutcher,
| B. L. C. Wailes,
j Thomas Lewis,

4. The cultivation of cotton is by no means a difficult
operation. It is planted very much as corn is planted, in
March, and the early part of April, (depending of course
upon the relative northern or southern situation of the land)
and kept free from weeds through the summer, by constant
ploughing and hoeing. In its early stages it resembles,
when seen at a little distance, what are called bunch beans
growing in hills or rows. In the fall it is picked out of
23*

270

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

the opening pods, by slaves, who go along with a basket,
and gather ail that they can pick out. This is a tedious
mode of getting the cotton from the husk or pod that contains it. When it is gathered into the cotton house, then
comes the work of cleaning it of the seeds, by means of the
gin. This is a simple operation. The cotton passes between a revolving cylinder, (with teeth in circular rims of
iron,) and a grate, by which the seeds are separated from
the fine fibres of the cotton. It is next pressed into bales
by a machine somewhat like a cider-press, and is then
ready for market. A few good hands will cultivate several
acres.
From one to two bales, sometimes three, is the
produce of an acre of good land in this state. The price
of cotton lands is various,—from $ 10 or §20 to §40 per
acre, according to quality, situation, buildings and machinery on the premises.
5. The subject of internal improvement awakens considerable attention in this state. A fund for this purpose
is accumulating from the reservation of five per cent, on
the sales of the public lands within this state. Three-fifths
of which may be laid out in constructing canals, roads r
improving rivers, & c , within the state.
6. The early history of this state is interesting, but
cannot be given in detail in a work like this.
The first French colony was planted here in 1716 or
1718. In 1729 it was massacred by the Indians* In 1763
the land was ceded to the British ; in 1783 it was ceded
to the United States, but was held by the Spaniards until
1798. In 1800, what is now Mississippi and Alabama
was constituted the territory of Mississippi—and in 1817,
the state of Mississippi was organised.

LOUISIANA.

271

CHAPTER XXII.
LOUISIANA.
THIS State is bounded on the north by Arkansas territory,
and Mississippi State ; on the east by the same State; on
the south by the Gulf of Mexico ; and on the west by the
Mexican dominions. The 33d deg. of N . latitude is the
northern boundary west of the Mississippi River, and 31st
deg. on the east of that river; the Pearl River is its extreme eastern boundary, and the Sabine its western. It
extends from N. lat. 28° 56' to 33°; and from W. long.
11° 36' to 17° 16'. It contains 49,300 square miles, or
31,552,000 acres.
TABLE OF PARISHES AND SEATS OF JUSTICE.
EASTERN DISTRICT.
PARISHES.

Ascension,
Assumption,
East Baton j
Rouge,
i
West Baton
Rouge,
Concordia,
E. Feliciana,
W.Feliciana,
Ibberville,
Jefferson,
Lafourche
Interior,
Orleans,
Plaquimines,
Pt. Coupee,
St. Bernard,

Distance
from NewOrleans.
5,426] Donaldson,
75
5,669 Assumption e n ,
90
6,698 Concordia,

POPULATION
SITUATION. IN 1830.

sem
sem
m

SEATS OF JUSTICE.

3,084 Baton Rouge,
ne
4,662
em
8,247 Jackson,
8,629 St. Francisville,|
\e m
7,049 Ibberville,
\s e m
| 6,846 Coquille,
\s e

158
149
98
202

5,503! Thibadeauxvillel

108

49,826 N E W ORLEANS?
\se
4,489 Fort Jackson,
\s e
5,936 Point Coupee,
\m
Is em 1 3,356

75
154

\m

\s

117

272

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

(Table

Continued.)

Distance
POPULATION
SEATS OF JUSTICE.' from New>
SITUAOrleans.
TION. IN 1830.

PARISHES.

S t . Charles,
St. Helena,
St. J a m e s ,
St. John, )
Baptiste, $

s e m
e m
s e m

5,147,
4,028 St. Helena,
7,846 Bringier's,

60

s e m

5,677 Bonnet C a r r e ,

36

2,864 Covington,

44

St. Tarn- j
many, $
T e r r e Bonne,
Washington,

2,121 Williamsburg,
2,286 F r a n k l i n ,
|155,399|

~Total~^~

WESTERN DISTRICT.
POPULA1 SITUATION
SEATS OF JUSTICE.
TION. IN 1830. 1

PARISHES.

m
nm

Avoyelles,
Catahoula,
Claiborne,
Lafayette,
Natchitoches,
Rapides,
St. Landry,
St. Martin's,
St. Mary's,
Washita,

s
nw
m
s w
s
s
n

Distance
from NewOrleans.

3,484 Marksville,
|
2,58l!Harrisonburg,
1,764-Russellville,
, 5,653 Vermillionville
7,903,Natchitoches,
7,575 Alexandria,
12,591 Opelousas,
7,205 St. Martinsville
6,442 Franklin,
5,140 Monroe,

Total - | 60,340 |
E a s t e r n District - - W e s t e r n District - - -

240
251
441
192
354
272
192
176
141
323

155,399
60,340

Total of Louisiana
- - 215,739 Inhabitants.
Of whom 109,588 a r e slaves, 16,710 free blacks, and
89,441 whites.
POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Population.

In 1810,
1820,
1830,

.
.

76,556 From 1810 to 1820,
153,407 '
1820 ' 1830,
215,739

Increase.

76,851
62,332

LOUISIANA.

273

The population of the French Colony of Louisiana, in
1763 was 11,496.
The Population of New Orleans, in 1802, was about 10,
000; in 1810, 17,242 ; in 1820, 27,165 ; in 1830, 46,310.
The seat of government is, at present, New Orleans.
The Constitution was formed in 1812.
GOVERNMENT.—Governor—term of office four years—
salary $7,500 per annum. Secretary, Treasurer, Attorney General, and Surveyor General.
LEGISLATURE.—The Legislative authority is vested in a
Senate and a House of Representatives, styled the General
Assembly of the State of Louisiana.
The senators are
elected for four years ; their number is 17. The representatives are elected for two years. Their number is at
present 50. The elections are held on the first Monday ,
Tuesday and Wednesday of July. The General Assembly
elect by joint ballot, for governor, one of the two who have
received the highest number of the votes of the people.
JUDICIARY. The Supreme Court consists of three judges,
who are appointed by the governor, with the advice and
consent cf the Senate. This court has only appellate jurisdiction. It sits in New-Orleans for the Eastern District,
during the months of November, December, January, February, March, April, May, June and July. And for the
Western District, at Opelousas and Attakapas, during the
months of August, September, and October.
The Criminal Court of New Orleans has one Judge,
There are eight District Courts, and nine Judges. The
District Courts, with the exception of the first, hold in each
parish, two sessions a year.
The Parish Courts hold a regular session in each parish
on the first Monday in every month.
The courts in the first district, viz. the Parish, District,
Criminal and Probate Courts, are in session the whole year,
excepting the months of July, August, September and October, in which months they hold special courts if necessary.
Surface of the Country.—There are three very distinct
districts in this state, as it regards soil and surface. 1. The
north-eastern part, or the country lying east of the Mississippi and north of Ponchartrain, Maurepas, and Ibberville
outlet, embracing the Parishes of East and West Feliciana, East Baton Rouge, Washington, St. Helena, and

274

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

St. Tammany, is hilly, of a sandy soil, covered with pine,
possessing fine springs and a salubrious climate.
The
north-western portion of the state is also generally elevated,
some of it very much so. 2. The south-western part, in
the Opelousas country, is covered with extensive prairies,
of great fertility and generally level, or gently undulating.
3. The whole deltaj or country lying between the Atehafalaya (ChafTalio) outlet on the west, and the Ibberville
outlet with its continuation in lakes Maurepas, Ponchartrain and Borgne, on the east, is a dead level, and excepting
the margins of the numerous rivers and streams, and which
are from a mile to a mile and a quarter in width, is chiefly
continuous swamps, covered with cypress, swamp oak, gum,
&c. This is the character of much of the country bordering the lower parts of the Red river, and the Ouachitta,
the Courtableau, and other streams.
The whole southern line is a low marshy country,
scarcely rising above the level of the ocean, and often
overflown by the tides, Rising in the most gradual manner, the north-western part even reaches the aspect of a
mountainous character. The coast is lined with low and
sandy islands separated from the main land by shallow
bayous, or stagnant inlets, and covered with stinted liveoaks.
Soil.—This State has an astonishing diversity of soil.
Within its limits are all the varieties, from the recent, and
still periodically submerged alluvial lands, to hills almost
approaching to the magnitude of mountains. Here is to be
found soil of astonishing fertility, and some of great sterility ; unwooded plains, and the most dense forests which
can be found in our country. But as a general remark
it may be truly said that the soil of this state is astonishingly fertile. In the northern part, bordering on Arkansas, there is a considerable extent of hilly, flinty, barren
land. The parishes north of Ponchartrain are generally
not fertile..
Productions.—Sugar and rice are staples of this state,
generally below lat. 31, and cotton above that line. The
latter is, however, cultivated in every section of the state,
and sugar, partially to the northern boundary. Corn grows
finely, but is little cultivated, because less profitable than
-sugar and cotton. It is obtained, as well as flour and

LOUISIANA.

275

bread stuffs generally, from Kentucky, Ohio, and other
states in the upper part of the Valley. The apple grows
in the northern parishes, whilst the peach is every where
excellent; and the fig, of several species, grows over all
the state. The orange and pomegranate grow pretty well
wherever attempted ; and olives and bananas, but the latter
not so well as the former. Most garden vegetables would
grow admirably well, if cultivated. The great staples
are, however, sugar and cotton- In 1829, there were 725
sugar plantations in this state. There are probably now
about 800 ; many of them, however, are new and not yet
very productive, as it requires four or five years to bring
a sugar plantation into a perfect and profitable condition.
The settlements in this state are totally dissimilar to
those of any other state in our country, and are such as
can hardly be conceived of by those who have not seen
them. They also may be considered as having peculiarities occasioned by the different and distinctive features of
the country, described above. The inhabitants in the elevated and hilly portions in the north-east and north-west
portions of the state live in more detached and scattered
settlements, and spread over the country as in all other
states in the Valley of the Mississippi, if you except Arkansas and some parts of Mississippi state. The settlements
along the rivers are confined to -the margins, which are
higher than the woody swamps which lie back of them.
Nothing can exceed the beauty of these settlements. Each
plantation (for cotton or sugar) extends along the river
from a quarter to half of a mile, and back often a mile or
more. The plantation house stands near the river, with
the " quarter" of houses for the slaves, and the cotton or
sugar mills, &c. extending on each side, forming a considerable village. These villages nearly reach to each
other, and so form an almost continuous series of towns or
villages as far as the eye can reach. If the reader will
conceive of this, he will form some idea of the settlements
along the banks of the Mississippi from above St. Francisville to below New-Orleans; also along the Red River,
and many other streams.
The settlements in the prairie regions are also remarkable. They resemble those which 1 have just described,
for they are on the woodland margin of the prairie, and

276

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

seem when viewed by one standing in the midst of a prarie, like the beautiful settlements which border some of the
lakes in the state of New-York. The inhabitants of the
settlements around the prairies pursue agriculture to but a
limited extent compared with the raising of cattle, horses,
and mules. Some of these graziers have an immense
number of live stock. A few years since three of these
numbered 15,000 head of horned cattle, and 2,000 horses
and mules 1
The Attakapas prairie contains, it is stated, 5,000 square
miles; the Opelousas 8,000 square miles. The inhabitants around the prairies, as well as along the rivers, and
indeed throughout the state are mostly French. Along
the prairies, and in the country generally, they live in great
rural simplicity.
Rivets.—The principal river is the Mississippi, which
runs nearly 600 miles along and within the limits of this
state, and empties its waters into the Gulf by several
mouths, or passes, as they are called. The large river, called
Red River, with its large, confluent, the Ouachitta, comes
flowing down from the iior,tfi|, arid falls into the Mississippi,
in N. latitude 31°. Both these rivers have innumerable
lakes and bayous, parallel witbtneir-m^in streams, and are
lined by extensive cypress swamps in some parts of their
courses. A few miles below the mouth of Red River, is
seen the iirst outlet, by which a portion of the waters of the
Mississippi leave the main channel, and flow to the Gulf by
their own separate course. This is the Atchafalaya, commonly called Chaffalio, which after receivingThe Courtableau, Teche, and a few other small streams, flows into the
Gulf, 150 miles west of the Mississippi. At the village of
Ibberville, the Placquemine outlet occurs, and flows into
the Chaffalio. At Donaldsonville, the outlet or bayou,
La Fourche, occurs, and flows into the Gulf, 50 miles
westward of the Mississippi. And on the eastern side of
the Mississippi river, the small outlet called Ibberville
outlet, or bayou Manshac, flows to the eastward, and after
receiving the Amite, and several other streams, expands
into the small lake of Maurepas. An outlet connects this
lake with Lake Ponchartrain, which is again connected
with Lake Borgne, by the outlet called the Rigolets, into
which Pearl River flows. Lake Borgne is nothing more

LOUISIANA.

277

than a large bay belonging to the Gulf of Mexico. The
Ibberville outlet and the lakes just mentioned, together
with the Mississippi River, form the important island of
Orleans.
The Red River is navigable for steam-boats 90 miles
above Nachitoches. At that point are what are called the
" rafts," which prevent the passage of boats, although
there are more than 500 miles of fine steam-boat navigation above the rafts, in a good stage of the waters. At
the rafts there is a vast expansion of the river into bayous
and shallow lakes to the width of many miles, and for a
distance of 50 or 60 miles. This expansion is covered
greatly with floating timber, overspread in many places
with weeds and small trees.
The Red River rises in the region of Santa Fe, in Mexico. It is almost as long as the Arkansas. It receives as
its branches, above this state, the Kimichie, Vasseux, and
Little River; and within this state it receives the Bodcau,
Datache, Black Lake, Saline, Little River, and Ouachitta.
There is much fertile land on-the: Red'River. Its waters
are of a dark reddish appearance, strongly impregnated
with salt. Lake Bistmeau. is connected with it at the
"rails."
^* - : . -;
•'- The small streams which flow from this state into the
Gulf of Mexico, west of the Mississippi and its mouths, are,
the Vermillion, Mermentou, Calcasiu, and Sabine. They
all have lakes connected with them.
Cities and Towns.—NEW-ORLEANS
is the great emporium of trade, not only for this state, but for the whole
Valley of the Mississippi. It stands on the left bank of the
Mississippi, in N. lat. 30°, and W. long. 13° 6', and is
105 miles above the mouth of the river. It was founded
in 1719, by Bienville, who succeeded his brother M. D'lbberville in the government of the French colony in Louisiana. The course of the Mississippi below Natchez is
south-east. It makes, at this place, one of those bends
which are so charateristic of all the rivers south of the
Susquehanna. Running towards the east just above the
city, it turns to the north, then east, and then south. The
old part of the city stands at the centre of this bend, and
consequently faces the south ; the upper part, of course,
faces the east, and the lower the west. The extent of the
24

278

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

city along the river is three or four miles, and its width
varies from a quarter of a mile on the extremities, to
nearly a mile in the centre. The levee which commences
on each side of the river 160 miles above New-Orleans,
and is continued below it, forms what may be called the
wharf of the city. It is near 30 feet wide generally. It
serves not only for a wharf where vast quantities of merchandise and " up country" productions are landed from
ships and boats, but also for a market, and a sort of exchange, or place where extensive sales, transfers, &c. of
commodities are constantly taking place. Those streets
which may be said to run along the river, or parallel to it,
are somewhat in the shape of an Indian's bow, except that
the extremes form large angles, instead of curves, at the
junction with the central parts. Those streets which run
out from the river toward the woods or swamps in the rear
of the city, may be said to be at right angles with the section of the river from which they commence. Of course
there are some strange squares—not indeed, like that
which a worthy Hibernian found in the lower part of Philadelphia, that is, round—but somewhat in the shape of a
wedge.
The portions of the city which have been built by the
Americans resemble other American cities. The houses
are of brick, and mostly two or three stories high. But
that portion which was built by the French and Spaniards
is very different. The houses are lowr, surrounded by a
narrow porch, and are covered with stucco of a white or
yellow colour. In the central part of the city the houses
are contiguous ; but in the suburbs, or Fauxbourgs, they
are separated generally by intervening gardens, of orange,
olive, fig, and lemon trees, &c. The wooden buildings
are giving place gradually to those of brick ; and great
efforts are making to improve the streets with good pavements, stone sewers, &c.
The principal public buildings are, the Cathedral, College, Ursuline Convent, Presbyterian, Episcopal, French
Protestant, and Mariners' churches, Charity Hospital,
Town House, Banks, Theatres, &c. The Charity Hospital is one of the most useful charities of the city. New
Orleans is peculiarly exposed to disease and want. In this
hospital every thing is done for the sick and destitute

LOUISIANA.

279

stranger that could be done. In it more miserable beings
have been sheltered, from it more have been dismissed
cured, and more have been carried to their long homes,
than from any other hospital in our country !
In the back part of the city, and at a distance of less
than half of a mile from the Mississippi, is a basin for
shipping, connected by a canal with the JBayou St. John's,
which empties itself into Lake Ponchartrain, six miles
north of the city. Through this canal, the trade of the
country bordering on Lakes Ponchartrain and Borgne, and
of all the coast along the northern part of the Gulf of
Mexico as far as Florida, comes to the city. Quite a considerable fleet of sloops, &c. may be seen at all times in
this basin. A rail-road, of about four miles and a half in
length, now connects the city with Lake Ponchartrain.
This will probably supersede the use of the canal and its
basin. A harbour will be formed in Lake Ponchartrain,
at the termination of the rail-road, where a considerable
village is now growing up.
Nothing can be more interesting to a stranger than to
walk along Levee-street and survey the flat boats which
line the bank along the upper part of the city, filled with
all kinds of productions from the " up-country." As many
as 1,500 such boats are here sometimes to be counted at
once.
Opposite to the centre of the city, he may sometimes
see 40 steam-boats, while every hour, almost, some arrive
and others depart on their long voyages; whilst below lies
the shipping, which is increased or diminished daily by
the arrival or departure of the powerful steam tow-boats
which escort the ships down to the mouth of the river, and
see them over the bar, and then bring others up, frequently
one boat marching up with two or three ships, two or three
brigs, and two or three sloops, &c. I And if he passes
through the market he will see such a scene as he never
before witnessed. Babel itself could not have exceeded it.
He will hear the French, Spanish, English, and sometimes
German, languages, spoken by negroes, mulattoes, quartre
unes, and whites. The words " piccayune," (6 1-4 cents)
and " bit"—(12 1-2 cts.) fall upon the ear at every step as
one passes through the trafficking crowd.
The population has increased rapidly. In 1810, it was

280

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

17,242; in 1820, it was 27,156; and in 1830, it was
46,310. This is the stationary or fixed population. In
the season of business, that is, the winter, 20 or 25,000
more may be added. As to the trade, a person may have
some idea of it from the fact that this year about 100,000
hogsheads of sugar, probably 5,000,000 gallons of molasses, 40,000 hogsheads of tobacco, and 400,000 bales of
cotton will be exported ; besides immense quantities of
flour, whisky, lead, salted beef and pork, lard, hides, peltry,
furs, &c.
This is one of the most wonderful places in the world.
Let the reader take a little turn with me on the levee ;
and first survey the river. As far as he can see almost,
up and down, the margin is lined with flat-boats, come
from above, from every part of the Valley of the Mississippi.
Some are laden with flour, others with corn, others with
meat of various kinds, others with live stock, cattle, hogs,
horses, or mules. Some have travelling stores: occasionally, some are to be found which are full of negroes; and
some full of what is infinitely worse, " Old Monongahela"
whiskey. Along the lower part, he will see a forest of
masts; higher up, he may see 20 or 30 steam-boats, with
their bows up against the levee, or else projecting over an
" up country" flat-boat. Every day some come from above
and others depart, on excursions of one or two thousand
miles, to St. Louis, or Louisville, or Nashville, or Pittsburg, or hundreds of other places. For distance is no
longer thought of in this region—it is almost annihilated
by steam. And if he casts his eye down the river, he may
see a whole" fleet, sometimes, coming up without a sail
stretched, or an oar manned—all carried along, and that
not at a slow rate, by a steam tow-boat, of tremendous
power. I was perfectly amazed the first time I saw this
spectacle. It was the Grampus tow-boat, marching up,
having two large ships grappled to her sides, two or three
brigs at a cable's length behind, and still further in the
rear, one or two schooners and two or three sloops! all
moving along \ery reluctantly, and not unlike a number of
rogues escorted by High Constable Blaney, or Hays, to-a
court of Justice, who march along, because they cannot
help it.
And if he turns his back to the river, he will see won-

LOUISIANA.

231

derful " sights." In one place he will see the busy and
anxious-looking merchant, receiving from the steam-boat
or putting on board the ship, his cotton, his sugar, his
molasses, tobacco, coffee, boxes of goods, & c , which cover
the levee far and wide. Along the whole line are the
owners of the flat-boats trading with the citizen, merchant,
and shop-keeper. Whole rows of Englishmen and Americans are to be seen peddling those valuable little stores
which one can move about in a hand-barrow, or carry in a
basket. And then such crowds (especially along that part
of the levee which is opposite the market-house,) of
Negresses and Quatre-unes, (written Quadroons by those
who do not understand French) carrying on their bandaned heads, and with solemn pace, a whole table-—or
platform as large as a table—covered with goodies, such
as cakes, and apples, and oranges, and figs, and bananas,
and pine-apples, and cocoa-nuts, & c , which it would be too
tedious for me fully to enumerate.
And then if the reader will go through the city he may
look at the steam saw-mills, steam cotton-compressing machines, the market-house, the state-house of ancient
appearance, the hotels, the theatres if he likes, the Cathedral, the Calaboos (called Calabozo by the Spanish) or
jail, the Charitable Hospital, and lastly, as the terminating
point to us all, the place where repose, in the stillness of
the tomb, those who once inhabited this city now so full
of life, activity and mirth. There is nothing in New
Orleans, more interesting to a reflecting man, than the
Catholic and Protestant Cemeteries, which are areas
covered with beautiful white mausoleums, some of several
feet in height, some standing solitary, and others crowded
together. It was with mingled emotions that I stood by
that of the eloquent and youthful Lamed, bearing, as the
most fit epitaph, the simple name of him whose ashes are
resting there. And there too rests Be Fernex, cut down
at a time when, so far as human eye can see, his usefulness
was commencing.
The population of this place is exceedingly various. A
large portion speaks the French language ; some, but the
number is not great, the Spanish; some, the German;
and the remainder, the English. Those that speak the
French are generally Catholics, and are, through all their

282

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

conditions and complexions, a polite, agreeable and interesting people ; honest, frugal and inoffensive. Too many
of the Americans who reside here, and more especially
those who make but a transient stay, are devoted to the
exclusive object of acquiring wealth, and are so immersed
in business as to neglect, it is to be feared, generally, the
interests of the immortal spirit.
Much has been said concerning the wickedness of this
city, and it is not to be denied that there is much wickedness here ;—much gambling, great disregard and desecration of the Sabbath, and a general indifference to religion.
Still there is progress made in the diffusion of evangelical
religion, and an increase of its practice. There are several
Protestant churches ; 2 Presbyterian; 1 Episcopal; 1
Baptist; 1 Methodist, and 1 French Protestant, and about
ten Sunday schools. There are also several Catholic
churches.
Upon the whole, whilst there is much to be done in this
city, there are some things encouraging. It has its wickedness, as has every city. Of the permanent population
much that is favorable might be said. There is much intelligence among them. Here are five daily papers, three
of which are partly in French and partly in English, and
all are conducted with ability. The French are an amiable people, very sober in their habits, and inoffensive, good
citizens. There is but little drunkenness among them, be
it said to their honour. And the most of the intemperance
to be found here (for it is not a drunken city, far from it—
it is better in this respect than Philadelphia or New York)
is to be found among the half-horse, half-alligator characters that come down the river; and even they are greatly
reformed—yes, reformed by steam. For since the introduction of steam-boats with their crowds of respectable
passengers, the noisy, drinking, swearing boatmen, have
been made to see and feel a little of the influence of civilization, and they are becoming ashamed of their own
vileness. Besides, it is now not so easy as it once was, for
such men to find employment.
This is the most remarkable city, in some respects, of
our country. It is the great commercial mart of the Valley of the Mississippi, and situated on the first favourable
site for a city. Receiving from above the productions that

LOUISIANA.

283

grow along* a hundred noble streams, which pour their waters into the grand recipient upon whose banks it stands—
and from below, the productions of every clime, wafted to
it by every wind that blows,—it increases rapidly in wealth
and population, and is destined to be the second, if not the
first, city of our Union. Where on earth can another city
be found whose situation is so favorable, in regard to the
extent of country, whose productions, as it were, naturally
tend to this great centre of trade ; almost like material
substances on the earth's surface to the centre of gravitation? Above it are more than 1,300,000 square miles of
the most fertile country, taken as a whole, that the earth
affords in equal extent; a country which will one day, and
that not very distant, contain a population of 100,000,000
of immortal beings, blest with intelligence and virtue, and
happy under a delightful and just government, established
and maintained by a virtuous people; or else rent into factions, distracted into opposing communities, suffering all
the evils that anarchy and irreiigion can bring upon a people.
Five miles below the centre of New Orleans, and almost
in its lowest suburb, is the battle ground, on which the
British were signally defeated on the 8th of January, 1815.
It has long been a noble sugar plantation. Lately, I understand, it has been divided into lots and sold.
There are several beautiful villages and townsalong the
Mississippi above New Orleans, such as Baton Rouge and
St. Francisville on the east side, and Donaldsonville and
Ibberville on the west. On the Red River stand Alexandria, 102 miles above the mouth, and Natchitoches, 84
miles above Alexandria, both on the south side, and considerable places. Jackson, Covington and Madisonville,
are north of Lake Ponchartrain.
Climate.—Mr. Darby contends that the seasons of Louisiana are colder by at least two degrees of latitude than
are those of a similar latitude on the Atlantic coast. And
he has the same opinion respecting the whole Valley of
the Mississippi. Mr. Jefferson held a directly opposite
opinion, judging from the fact that the reed cane, and the
species of birds called Paroquets, are found farther to the
north in the Valley of the Mississippi than on the Atlantic
coast. 1 suppose that Mr. Darby is nearer the truth than

284

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Mr. Jefferson, if we may depend upon thermometrical observations. Besides, it is a well known fact that the sweet
orange and sugar cane do not succeed well here, much to
the north of the 31st degree of latitude. The live oak
also does not grow in the Valley as far north as it does in
the Atlantic states. It grows, for instance, in the neighbourhood of Camden, S. C. in lat. 34 deg. 15 min. There
is but little of it north of the 31st deg. in the Valley of
the Mississippi. Still it would seem that there can be but
little difference in temperature, save what is occasioned
by elevation, between Louisiana and the corresponding
parts of Georgia and Florida. The real elevation of
Louisiana is unquestionably from 50 to 80 feet greater on
the coast than that of South Carolina, if the Gulf of Mexico
off the mouths of the Mississippi is really higher, as we
have reason to believe, than the Atlantic Ocean off the
Carolina coast.
A large portion of this state is unhealthy to those who
are not acclimated. Those who were born here have good
health all the year. The parishes north of lake Ponchartrain, and those on the upper part of Red River, are decidedly healthy.
- Education.—The legislature of this state appropriates
the sum of nearly $40,000 annually to educate the children
of the poor. Owing to the sparseness of the population,
there is much difficulty in supporting schools in many
parts.
Congress has appropriated 873,973 acres of the public
land, or one thirty-sixth part of it, to common schools ;
besides 46,080 acres for colleges, &c. There is no state
in the West where there is a greater disposition feon the
part of the public authorities, to promote education, and
I doubt not that an effective and liberal public school system will be established in this state.
GENERAL REMARKS.—1. There are in this state
25,198,234 acres of public land: consequently only
6,353,766 acres are the property of individuals. From
this it appears, that, making a due allowance for uninhabitable swamps and prairies, there is a vast extent of land
fit to be cultivated, which will one day be sold to individuals.

LOUISIANA.

285

Land Offices,
Registers.
Receivers*
¥/illiam L. Robeson
Hilary B. Cenas
New Orleans
Benjamin B. Rogers
OpeJousas
Valentine King
Washita
J. M. A. Hamblin Joseph Friend
Saint Helena
Thos. G.Davidson Alex. G. Penn
2. Much has been done to levee or embank the Mississippi River. And I have no doubt that at a future day,
and that not distant, the public authorities of this state
will carry on this improvement much further, and levee
the banks of all the rivers and bayous in this state which
need it, and so reclaim some thousands, or rather millions,
of acres from the overflow which renders them now unfit
for cultivation. These swamps are covered with impervious forests of cypress, swamp gum, &c. and are the favorite abode of the alligator and moccasin snake.
Would it not be well for the general government to give
up to this state all the public land in it, upon the condition
that the proceeds of its sales, should be devoted to this,
and similar works of improvement 1 It would be difficult,
I think, to conceive how the country could be more benefitted by the amount which may accrue from the sales of
this part of the public domain.
3. The manufacture of sugar has gradually increased
in this state from 1783 to the present. A duty of 2 1-2
cents per pound on foreign sugar from 1803 up to 1816,
and of 3 cents until recently, and now 2 1-2 ; and of 10
cents a gallon on molasses until last year, and at present
5 cents, has been the occasion of this advance in the culture of the sugar cane. It is estimated that 150,000,000
lbs. of sugar are annually consumed in this country. And
that 100,000,000 lbs. are now made in Louisiana, Florida
and Georgia; but by far the greatest part in Louisiana.
There are now about $50,000,000 invested in the sugar
business, in lands, slaves, steam engines, and other property, in this state. The number of slaves employed is
about 33,000.
The following statement is extracted from a report of
a committee of " T h e Agricultural Society of Baton
Rouge" in 1829.
" The gross product of one hand, on a well regulated
sugar estate, is put down at the cultivation of five acres 3

286

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

producing 5,000 lbs. of sugar, and 125 gallons of molasses,
the former valued, on the spot, at 5 1-2 cents per pound,
and the latter at 18 cents per gallon,—together $297 50.
" The annual expenses of each hand, including wages
paid, horses, mules, and oxen, physician's bills, &c. is $105.
An estate with 80 negroes, annually costs $8,330. The
items are as follows : salt meat, spirits, $830 ; clothing of
all sorts, $1,200; medical attendance and medicines,
$400 ; Indian corn, $1,000; overseer's and sugar maker's
salary, $1,000 ; taxes, $300; annual loss on a capital of
$50,000 in negroes, at 2 1-2 per cent. $1,250 ; horses and
oxen, $1,500 ; repairs of boilers, $550; do. of ploughs,
carts, &c. $300. Total $8,330.
" Fifteen acres are required for each hand, five for cultivation in cane, five in fallow, or rest, and five in wood-land.
The annual consumption of wood, on an estate worked by
80 negroes, is 800 cords. Two crops of cane are generally
made in succession on the same land, one of plant cane,
the other of ratoon ; it then lies fallow two years, or is
planted in corn or peas. One hand will tend 5 acres, besides cutting his proportion of wood and ploughing 2 1-2
acres of fallow ground.
" T h e capital vested in 1,200 acres of land, with its
stock of slaves, horses, mules, and working oxen, is estimated at $147,200. One-third, or 400 acres, being cultivated in cane, yields 400,000 pounds, at 5 1-2 cents, and
10,000 gallons of molasses at 18 cents,—together $23,800;
deduct annual expenses as before, $8,330, leaving an apparent profit of $15,470, or 10 3-7 per ct. as interest on the
investment."
In the report of the same Society, dated in September
1830, they state that they estimated the profit in their preceding report, at too high a rate, and that it does not exceed, on an average, 6 per cent.
The following statement on the same subject, is derived
from the Appendix to a letter addressed by the lamented
Honourable Mr. Johnston, to the late Secretary of the
Treasury.
" The capital invested in a plantation capable of producing, by the best management, 400,000 lbs. of sugar, and
10,000 gallons of molasses, worth on the plantation 23,000
dollars, must consist as follows ;

LOUISIANA.

287

1,500 acres of land, at $50 per acre
$75,000
90 hands, at 600 dollars each
54,000
40 pair of working oxen, at 50 dollars
2,000
40 horses, at 100 dollars
4,000
Horizontal sugar mill
4,000
2 sets of boilers, at 1500 dollars each
3,000
Buildings of all descriptions
25,000
12 carts
1,200
30 ploughs
300
All other utensils, such as timber wheels, hoes,
spades, axes, scythes, &c.
1,500
$170,000
" The annual expenses on the above plantation cost 10s
700 dollars, in the following items :
Provisions of all kinds
3,500
Clothing of all sorts
1,500
Medical attendance and Medicine
500
Annual losses in negroes
1,500
Taxes
500
Horses and oxen
1,200
Repairs of buildings
700
Ploughs, carts, &c.
300
Overseer
1,000
$10,700
" Two crops of cane are generally made in succession on
the same land, one of plant cane, the other of the second
year's growth ; it then lies fallow two years or is planted in
corn and beans.
Gross proceeds
$23,000
Expenses
10,700
Net proceeds
12,300
Being about 7 per cent, on the capital invested."
The preceding facts, subject to the rule adopted above,
might be used to bring out many important results. We
shall only take one—the amount of provisions annually purchased by the sugar planters.
" A s 400 hhds. of sugar are to 3,500 dollars paid for provisions, so are 100,000 hhds. to 875,000 dollars, annually
paid for pork, corn and other supplies, chiefly furnished by
Kentucky, Ohio, &c. And it should be observed that the

288

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

supplies of clothing, mills, boilers, carts, ploughs, and other
utensils, and of ho?*ses and oxen, as well as of slaves, are all
derived from other states of the union. We say all—for
the foreign products or manufactures which enter into the
consumption of the Louisiana sugar planters, are of small
importance or value.
" The statement just given has reference to one of the
best managed estates in Louisiana. With sugar at 5 cents
per lb. on the plantation, its late price, it is stated that the
capital employed does not yield six per cent, per annum."
The present consumption of sugar in the United States
may be put down at 150 millions of pounds—one third of
which is imported. In 1840 it is estimated that 200,000
hogsheads of home made sugar will be required, employing
or subsisting about 75,000 slaves, and that it will go on to
increase, if the production be protected. Mr. Johnston says
that Louisiania, alone, can supply the whole demand for sugar in the United States for 25 years to come. But there
are large tracts of land fitted for its cultivation in Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia and Florida—-especially the latter.
4. In 1829, the following articles were sent by boats to
New Orleans, from the Valley of the Mississippi ; 2,868
hhds. of bacon : 13,472 pieces of bagging : 3,995 kegs of
butter: 5,405 barrels of beef: 795 barrels of beeswax : 15,
210 lbs. of Buffalo skins or robes: 209,571 bales of cotton :
5,557 bales of cotton stock: 6,849 barrels of corn meal:
91,882 barrels of corn in ears: 157,323 barrels of flour:
110,206 kegs of lard : 146,203 pigs of lead : 2,940 barrels
of linseed oil: 6,215 packs of deer skins: 159 packs of
bearskins : 29,732 hhds. of tobacco : 4,239 bales of tobacco stock.
5. In the year ending 30th of September, 1831, the value
of imports at New Orleans from foreign countries, was
$9,761,588. Of exports there were shipped from that city,
during that year, abroad $15,752,029, and coastwise, $11,
418,622—total $27,170,651.
There were exported that year, of tobacco 36,132 hhds:
cotton, 170,541,259 lbs : and sugar, 55,351,420 lbs., exclusive of what was sent up the Valley. The amount of sugar
sent up the Valley, equalled almost what was shipped to
the Atlantic states, and abroad.

LOUISIANA.

289

6. Those who remove to this state will go to it either by
ship, and arriving at New Orleans, choose such a part of
it for future residence as they prefer; or by steam boat descend the Mississipi river from the upper country.
7. The history of this country which I shall here give is
very brief. The French commenced the settlement of this
country in 1699. In 1762, it was ceded to Spain. In 1802
Spain receded it to France, and in 1803 it was ceded to the
United States. In 1804, what is now Louisiana was erected into a Territory, called Orleans. In 1812 it became an
independent state.
Note,—The best short topographical description of this
state which I have seen, is to be found in the Preliminary
chapter of Judge Martin's History of Louisiana.

25

290

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

CHAPTER XXIII.
ALABAMA.
ALABAMA is bounded on the north by Tennessee ; east by
Georgia ; south by West Florida, and the Gulf of Mexico ;
and west by Mississippi. It has a line of coast, from the
Perdido to the east boundary of Mississippi of 60 miles. It
extends from N. lat. 30° 10' to 35°; and from W. long.
8° 05' to 11° 30'. Its mean length is 336 miles, and its
width near 200. Its area is 52,900 square miles, or 33,
856,000 acres.

TABLE OF THE COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.
NORTHERN ALABAMA.
COUNTIES.

Blount,
Franklin,
Jackson,
Jefferson.
Lauderdale,
Lawrence,
Limestone,
Marion,
Madison,
Morgan,
St. Clair,
Walker,
Total

SITUATION.

n m
n to
ne
m
\n w
\n
\n
\n w
\n
\n
\nem
n m

POPULA- \
TION IN COUNTY TOWNS.

1830.

1

4,233 Blountsville,
ll,078JRussellville,
12,700 Bellefonte,
6,855 Elyton,
14,984 Florence,
14,984 Moulton,
14,807 Athens,
4,058 Pikeville,
27,990 Huntsville,
9,062 iSomerville,
5,975,Ashville,
2,202 Walker C. H.
|125,725|

|

Distance
from
| Tuscaloosa

110
127
172
59
j 146
[ 102
| 130

1 118
i
|

155
135
129
47

ALABAMA.

291

SOUTHERN ALABAMA.
COUNTIES.

SITUATION.

POFULA- j
TION
COUNTY TOWNS.
IN 1830.

Distance
from Tuscaloosa.

129
11,874 Washington,
2,324 Blakely,
228
6,306 Centreville,
39
5,650 Greenville.
143
7,593 Clarkesville,
146
7,444 Sparta,
205
1,522 Montezuma,
187
2,031 Dale C. H.
242
14,017 Cahawba,
96
3,547 Fayette C H.
50
15,026 Eiie,
47
4,024 Columbia,
| 260
9,410 Lowndes C. H. 138
7,700 Linden,
78
6,267 Mobile City,
226
8,782 Claiborne,
157
12,695 Montgomery,
119
11,490 Perry C. H.
61
6,622 Pickens,
48
7,108 Pike C. H.
179
5,704 Shelby ville,
73
13,646 T U S C A L O O S A .
Washington
) 146
Washington,
3,474 !
sw
C. H.
| 113
Wilcox,
9,548 Canton,
1 5m
Total - - .
| 183,802 |
Northern Alabama - - 125,725
Southern Alabama - - 183,802
Total, - - 36 counties,
| 309,527 Inhabitants.
Of whom 117,549 are slaves, 1,572 free blacks, and
190,406 whites.

Antigua,
1 m 1
Baldwin,
s
Bibb,
m !
Butler,
' nm
Clarke,
sm
Conecuh,
s
Covington,
s
Dale,
s
Dallas,
m
Fayette,
nm
Greene,
wm
se
Henry,
Lowndes,
Marengo,
s m
Mobile,
sw
Monroe,
sw
Montgomery,
sm
Perry,
m
Pickens,
w
Pike,
se
Shelby,
m
Tuscaloosa,
m

POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Population.
Increase.
In 1810, less than 10,000)
1820, < < 127,901 V From 1820 to 1830, 181,626
1830, < < 309,527)

292

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

GOVERNMENT.—The Governor is elected for two years ;
salary $2,000. Secretary of State, Treasurer, and Comptroller of Public Accounts ;—salary of each $1,000.
LEGISLATURE.—The legislative power is vested in two
branches, a Senate and House of Representatives, which
together are styled, the General Assembly of the State of
Alabama*
The representatives are elected annually, and are apportioned among the different counties in proportion to the
white population ; the whole number cannot exceed 100,
nor fall short of 60. The senators are elected for three
years, and one-third of them are chosen every year. Their
number cannot be more than one-third, nor less than onefourth of the number of the representatives.
The general elections are held every year on the first
Monday and Tuesday in August.
And the General Assembly meets annually (at Tuscaloosa) on the fourth Monday in October.
JUDICIARY.—The judicial power is vested in a Supreme
Court, in Circuit Courts, and such inferior courts as the
General Assembly may; from time to time, direct or
establish. The Judges, after November in 1833, are to be
elected by a joint vote of both^Honses of the General
Assembly, every six years.
The Supreme Court consists of seven Judges ; and
the state is divided into seven Circuits, in each of which a
judge of the Supreme Court presides as a circuit judge.
The salary of each of these judges is $ 1,750.
Surface of the Country, Soil, tyc.—Alabama is divided
into two very unequal portions. On the north the Tennessee River, making a large bend towards the south, dips
down into the state. The section drained by that river
and by the numerous little streams that flow into it, is
called North Alabama, and embraces at present twelve
organized counties. This is also often called the Valley
of the Tennessee. An elevated ridge of hills, which may
almost be termed mountains, stretching from west to east,
and constituting in reality the south-western extremity of
the Allegheny System, separates this portion of the state
from what is called Middle and Southern Alabama, or
commonly South Alabama. The two portions of the state
differ exceedingly in soil, climate, and natural productions.

Jh:/^/6_

ALABAMA.

293

The north part is uneven and hilly; while the south is
either monotonously level, or moderately rolling. In the
north, the forests are composed of oak, hickory, ash, poplar,
elm, cedar, &c. while in the middle part of the state, these
species of trees are much interspersed with pine ; and in
the south the long leaved pine, together with cypress, gum,
swamp oak, holly and live oak along the water-courses,
constitute the immense forests which still exist there. I
have never seen in any other part of our country such dense
and high cane " brakes," as they are called, as I have seen
on the Mobile River, and its two great confluents, the
Alabama and Tombigbee. The long-leaved pine may be
said to be the prevailing species of timber in the southern
half of this state. The soil, wherever pine prevails, is not
even second rate, excepting along the streams. It will
produce a few crops very well; after which, it must be
constantly renewed by manuring. The alluvial bottoms
are fine cotton, and corn-lands. The grape would grow
well in this state. The alluvaai :lan(Js in this state are
extensive.
^ v .»•* '
Productions.—Cotton and cO.rn, pfixticul.ajly the former,
are the staples of thisjM$e.^Other grairts^'as well as all
kinds of fruits, would grow well if cultivated. Wheat is
raised in very small quantities, and is confined to the northern end. Gold mines exist in the N . E. angle of the state.
The increase of cotton in this state, within the last 15
years, is truly astonishing. It is believed that the exports
from this state, by the Mobile and Chattahooche, the grand
outlets of the southern portion of the state, will exceed
100,000 bales this year. Whilst, by the Tennessee, many
thousands more will find their way to New Orleans. The
cultivation of sugar-cane is increasing along the southern
zone of this state. The alluvial bottoms of the Escatappa,
Mobile, Perdido, Conecuh, Pea, Choctawhatchee, and
Chattahooche, produce the sugar-cane, and especially the
first-named three, on the lower parts of their courses,
which are within this state. Rice also grows well along
the alluvial bottoms near to the Gulf. Indigo was formerly
Cultivated in considerable quantities.
Rivers.—Alabama has fine navigable facilities. On the
north is the Tennessee, as has been already remarked.
Whilst the great southern slope is drained by the Alabama
25*

294

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

and its two noble branches,-—the eastern one of which is
composed of the Tallapoosa, Coosa, and Cahawba; and
the western is formed by the Tombigbee and Black Warrior. These streams are navigable by boats during a large
portion of the year. There are now 15 steam-boats which
trade on these rivers, carrying the productions of the
country to Mobile, the great commercial depot of the southern part of the state, whilst not less than ten or twelve
very large ones carry the productions of north Alabama to
New Orleans, or other points on the Mississippi.
Besides these rivers, the Chattahooche, which rises in
Georgia and is the boundary between that state and Alabama a distance of 160 miles by the river, affords great
commercial facilities to the eastern part of the state, which
will speedily become populous, inasmuch as the Creek
Indians have sold their lands,—-which lay in that part of the
state. Where this river unites with the Flint River from
Georgia, it assumes the name of Appalachicola, which it
retains, from that point to its entrance into the Gulf of
Mexico. There are several steam-boats now running on
this river between Columbus in Georgia and its mouth ;
whence the products of this region are shipped to Mobile
and New- Orleans. The Chociawhatchee, Yellow Water,
Escambia or Conecuh, and Perdido, are valuable streams
which rise in this state, and flow into the Gulf of Mexico,
between the Appalachicola and Mobile Rivers.
Internal Improvements.—The spirit of internal improvement has recently been greatly excited in this state also.
It is obvious to any one who will examine the map of the
state, that it must be of vast importance to connect the
waters of the Tennessee with those of the Alabama, if it
be practicable. The necessary examination of the intervening region has been made by a very competent topographical engineer, who has explored the valley of the
Coosa and the dividing ridge between it and the Tennessee.
I have learned from him that the project of making a
canal across this region will probably be abandoned, on
account of the difficulty of obtaining sufficient water to
supply feeders. He has no doubt of the practicability of
constructing a rail-road across, which will probably be
done. Indeed any one who will examine that portion of
the Valley of the Mississippi which lies east of the Ohio

ALABAMA.

295

and Mississippi Rivers, from North Alabama to Pittsburg,
must be convinced of the difficulty of constructing canals
in it. The channels of the rivers are very deep, and cut
through solid rocks in many places, so that it will be almost
impossible to supply water, in the low stages of the streams,
for the summits. All these streams become very low in
the summer, and the small ones on the elevated districts
would fail of answering the purpose of feeders in the dry
season. Rail-roads must therefore be almost the onl}~
mode of artificial communication in this region.
By an act of Congress of March 2,1819, it was provided
that 5 per cent, of the nett proceeds of all the sales of public
lands in this state should be reserved for making public
roads and canals, and improving the navigation of rivers.
Three-fifths of this amount were directed to be applied to
these objects within the state, and two-fifths to the making
of a road or roads leading to the state, Milder the direction
of Congress. This act gave rise to what is commonly
called the " Three per Cent. Fund," vested in/the bank of
the state of Alabama, and which amounted three years ago
to nearly $100,000. In January 1830, a Board of Internal Improvement, to consist of six Commissioners, was established by the legislature of the state, under whose superintendance the income of this fund is to be appropriated
to objects of public utility, as roads, canals, &c.
On the 23d of May, 1828, Congress made a grant to this
state of 400,000 acres of unappropriated lands, for improving the navigation of the Muscle Shoals and Colbert's
Shoals, in the Tennessee River; and likewise for improving the navigation of the Coosa, Cahawba, and Black Warrior Rivers.
Cities and Towns,—The great commercial emporium of
Alabama is MOBILE, situated on the west side of the Mobile river, 32 miles from the Gulf. It is 1033 miles from
Washington city, 160 from New Orleans, and 226 from
Tuscaloosa. The river is here 12 miles wide, embosoming
several low and sterile islands. Blakely stands opposite.
Mobile is built on a beautiful and slightly elevated spot,
and presents a very fine appearance. It early suffered by
being overflown, and has often been nearly destroyed by
fire. The wooden buildings are fast giving way to large
brick buildings, protected from the ravages of fire. The

296

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

streets are wide and beautiful. The inhabitants are now
becoming well supplied with water, brought by pipes from
a spring several miles west from the city. The Presbyterians, Methodists, Episcopalians, and Catholics have places
of worship here. A splendid Cathedral is about to be built
here. Mobile is the seat of a Catholic Bishoprick.
The China tree, or " Pride of China," as it is sometimes
called—the beautiful ornamental tree of the southern cities
and towns from New Orleans and Natchez, to Norfolk and
Richmond—line the sides of the streets, and greatly increase the pleasantness of this city. The health of the
place since the streets have become better paved, has greatly
improved. It has often been visited with yellow fever. Mobile is an older town than New Orleans, having been founded in 1702. Alternately under French, Spanish and English dominion, and long oppressed with the evils of colonial
vassalage, it bids fair now, enjoying the benefits of our free
institutions, and especially as the whole state will soon be
densely populated, to become a large city. The amount of
trade which is carried on here is very great. It is believed
that more than 100,000 bales of cotton will be shipped from
Mobile this year, so that more than half a million of bales,
will be the product of what I have described, in the third
chapter, as the Valley of the Mississippi; which is more
than the production of Georgia and the Carolinas. The population of Mobile is probably not quite 4,000.
There is a daily communication between this city and
New Orleans, by a line of stages to the Pascagoula, 40
miles, and steam boats thence by way of Lakes Borgne and
Ponchartrain to the termination of the New Orleans railroad on the last named lake, 5 miles from that city.
The country around Mobile possesses generally a light
soil—excepting the alluvial bottoms-and covered with longleaved pine. The marshes or swamps lying back of the city
have occasioned the sickness which has afflicted this place.
They will soon, it is hoped, be entirely removed by draining. Spring Hill, immediately west of the city, is a healthy
and pleasant spot, and the retreat of the inhabitants during
the extreme hot weather of the summer.
Blakely—Stands opposite to Mobile, distant 12 miles.
A steam boat runs several times a day betwen them. This
town has fine advantages as it regards a harbour, springs

ALABAMA.

297

of water, site, dec. But it has not increased as rapidly as
was expected. It has not the capital which its rival possesses, and consequently has not its trade.
Along the Alabama, Tombigbee, and their branches,
many beautitul and prosperous towns are springing up. On
the former are Claiborne, Canton,Cahawba, Selma, Vernon,
Washington, Montgomery, and Coosauda; on the latter
and Black Warrior, are St. Stephen's, CofFeeville, Tuscaloosa, and many others.
Montgomery—is a flourishing town which has sprung
up within a few years, on the left or south-eastern bank of
the Alabama river, 190 miles by land, and nearly 400 by
the river, from Mobile. It is a place of much business.
Steamboats run up to this place during moderate stages of
the river. Vast quantities of cotton, &c. are sent from this
place by steam and other boats to Mobile. It is 300 miles
from this place to Augusta in Georgia, and 119 miles to
Tuscaloosa. The population of this place is about 1,500,
and rapidly increasing. The country around is fertile and
many wealthy planters from Georgia and the Carolinas
have settled here. This town stands opposite a great bend
in the river.
TUSCALOOSA—is the Capital of the State, and stands on
a beautiful site, on the south or left bank of the Black Warrior. It is a flourishing place, and healthy. The public
buildings are a fine State House, University, Market,
Churches belonging to the Presbyterians, Methodists, Episcopalians and Baptists. The country around this place is
fertile and becoming settled rapidly. Congress granted
to this state 1,620 acres of land for the seat of Government.
Tuscaloosa is 858 miles from Washington City, 155
from Huntsville, 146 from Florence, and 226 from Mobile.
In the northern part of the state are several towns, the
chief of which are Florence, Tuscumbia and Huntsville.
Florence—stands on the north side of the Tennessee, at
the lower end of the Muscle Shoals, and about a mile from
the river. Directly opposite on the southern side of the
river, and at the distance of near two miles from it, is the
town of Tuscumbia. Both these places will, one day, be
large and important, for they stand at the head of steamboat navigation on the lower Tennessee. A rail road is

298

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

now making from Tuscumbia, to the Tennessee, and it is
contemplated to make another from Tuscumbia to some
point on the Tennessee, about 10 miles above the Shoals.
This rail road will be about 40 miles in length. This work
is now in progress. At the same time it is contemplated to
make a caned on the northern side of the Muscle Shoals.
The Muscle Shoals are a remarkable expansion in the
Tennessee river. Their length is thirty miles, and their
width varies from half a mile to three miles. In some
places the water is very deep, in others very shallow.
There are several rapids or falls in it, so great as to render
navigation very difficult and dangerous.
Besides Florence and Tuscumbia, there is Huntsville
in this section of the state, situated ten miles north of the
Tennessee river, and in a very fertile region. I have
never seen more beautiful cotton plantations than I have
seen in the neighbourhood of Huntsville. The country
south of the Tennessee, and through which one passes in
going from Huntsville to Tuscumbia, is a most beautiful
and fertile one. There are several other towns, but of less
consequence, in this part of the state.
Minerals.—Coal is found in abundance near Tuscaloosa,
and in other parts of the state. Salt is beginning to be
made in this state. In 1829, there were #3,000 invested
in this manufacture, and 4000 bushels were made that
year. It has greatly increased since. Iron is found, I
believe, abundantly, in the northern part of this state ; but
I know not to what extent it is yet manufactured.
Education.—There
is no public system of common
schools supported by law. Congress has granted to this
state one thirty-sixth part of the public land for common
schools—in all 722,090 acres; besides 46,080 acres for a
University. The saline reservations granted also to this
state are 23,040 acres, which will probably be devoted to
education.
In some townships the common school lands have been
sold, and the money invested in the State Bank, and the
interest applied to the object. But in most, the lands are
unoccupied and useless. There are three colleges in this
state, and several academies at Tuscaloosa, Huntsville, &c,
GENERAL REMARKS.
X. There are in this state

299

ALABAMA.

20>167,725 acres of public land to which the Indian claims
have been extinguished, and 7,760,890 acres which belong
still to the Indians, (chiefly to the Cherokees) who it is
expected will sell their claims before long, and remove
west of the Mississippi. The reader will at once perceive
how extensive the country is here which is yet to be
occupied.
Land Offices.
Montgomery,
Huntsville,
Cahawba,
Tuscaloosa,
Sparta,
St. Stephens,
Montevallo,

Registers.
John H. Somervilie,
Benjamin S. Pope,
Alanson Saltmarsh,
J. H. Vincent,
Wade H. Greening,
John B. Hazard,
Jacob T. Bradford,

Receivers.
Nimrod E. Benson.
Samuel Cruse,
Uriah G. Mitchell,
William G. Parish
John S. Hunter,
John H. Owen,
Joab Lawler,

2. The climate of this state, excepting on the low and
swampy lands, is a salubrious one. The summers are
long and the heat sustained, but not so intense as many
would suppose. The northern part, being at least 1,000
feet above the southern, has a climate, as it has a soil and
productions, widely different.
The spring commences early in the southern part of the
state. Corn is planted early in March, and even in February ; cotton somewhat later. Strawberries are ripe by
the first of May.
The chief disease of this state, in the summer and fall,
is bilious fever, in its several varieties.
3. This state, on account of its extent of unoccupied
land, its productive soil, and its generally pleasant and
salubrious climate, presents many inducements to emigrants, especially to those from the southern states of the
same parallels. And thousands have availed themselves
of these advantages, and have left the comparatively poor
lands of Georgia and the Carolinas, for the fertile regions
of this state. Its population has increased most rapidly
within a few years.
4. Emigrants who remove to this state have the choice
of three ways of reaching it. 1. To enter it from the
north, through Tennessee. There are two main roads lead-

300

VALLEY OF ^ H E MISSISSIPPI.

ing through Huntsville, and Tuscumbia. 2. To enter it
from Georgia, on the east, by the road from Augusta,
through Macon, Columbus, to Montgomery. 3. To enter
it by the south, through Mobile. Many foreign emigrants
remove by ship to that port, and thence go up in steamboats into the interior of the state.
5. This state was attached to the Territory of Mississippi until 1817. In 1820, it was received into the Union
as an independent state. It contained but few civilized
inhabitants before 1810. In this state some of the most
important battles with the Indians were fought during the
last war.

801

FLOEIDA.

CHAPTER XXIV.
FLORIDA.

W H A T was formerly called West Florida, and a large
portion of East Florida, border on the Gulf of Mexico. I
shall, therefore, in the brief description which follows, take
a general survey of the whole Territory of Florida.
Florida is bounded on the north, by Alabama and Georgia ; east, by the Atlantic ocean; south, by the Cuba
Channel, and the Gulf of Mexico ; and west by the same
Gulf, and the state of Alabama, from which it is separated,
in that portion of its boundary, by the Perdido River. It is of
a very irregular shape. Its entire length from north to south
is near 500 miles, and greatest width, across the northern
part, is not less than 600 ; whilst its mean width is not
more than 90 miles.
It extends from N . lat. 24° 40' to 31°; and from W .
long. 3° to 10° 30'. Its area is 55,680 square miles, or
35,635,200 acres.
Florida has an outline on the Atlantic Ocean of 550,
and on the Gulf of Mexico of 600 miles. From the southern extremity extends a line of numerous small islands to
the south-west, called the Tortugas.
TABLE OF THE COUNTIES AND COUNTY TOWNS.
WEST FLORIDA.

COUNTIES.

Escambia,
Jackson,
Walton,
Washington,

SITU A-J
TION.

nw
nw
nw
\nw
Total,

POPULATION
IN 1830.

COUNTY

TOWNS.

1 Pensacola,
1 Marianna,
Allaqua, [ley,
| Holmes' Val9,478
26

Distance
from
Tallahassee,

242
77
161
121

302

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

(Table

continued,)

MIDDLE FLORIDA.
SITUATION.

COUNTIES.

I POPULATION

J
n IO
n m\
nw
nw 1
nw

Gadsden,
Hamilton,
Jefferson,
Leon,
Madison,

Total,

COUNTY TOWNS.

IN 1830. j

D istance
from
Tallahassee.

4,855 Quincy,
1
553 Miccotown,
3,312 i Monticello,
6,494 | T A L L A H A S S E E ,
525 Hickstown,

23
29

15,779
EAST FLORIDA,

Alachua,
Duval,
Mosquito,
Nassau,
St. Johns,

m
ne
e
ne

2,204
1,970
733
1,511
2,538

ie
r

rotal,

Deal's,
Jacksonville,
Tomoka,
Fernandina,
St. Augustine,

178
313
292

8,956

SOUTH FLORIDA.

Monroe,

517 | Key West,
s
Total, 15 Counties, 34,730 inhabitants,
Of whom 15,501 are slaves, 844 free blacks, and 18,385
whites.
GOVERNMENT.—The Governor is appointed by the President by and with the advice and consent of the Senate ;—
salary, $2,500 per annum. Secretary—salary, $1,500.
The Legislative Council consists of 16 members, and
meets annually (at Tallahassee) on the first Monday in
January.
JUDICIARY.—There are four Judges, appointed by the
President and Senate—one for each of the four districts
which have been named. The salary of each, $1,500.
Surface of the Country,—It may be said in general, that
the zone of country which lies across the northern end of
Florida, extending from the Perdido in the west to the Atlantic ocean off St. Augustine, is rolling or undulating, not
exactly hilly, much less mountainous, but moderately

FLORIDA.

303

broken, excepting on the immediate Gulf shore, where it
is level. The peninsular part is remarkably level, low,
and much of it swampy. Portions of it, in places, are
similar to land supported by an unsubstantial foundation,
spongy, sometimes resting on alluvial matter, and sometimes on sand, and dangerous for cattle and horses. Numerous small streams and lakes collect the waters, and
drain them off gradually into the Atlantic or the Gulf.
A large portion of the country, in the northern part, is
covered with forests, the trees standing a considerable distance apart, without underbrush ; whilst the surface of the
ground presents a carpet of verdant grass and flowers, most
of the year. The alluvial bottoms, and the interval, and
the hammock lands, are covered with dense forests of pine,
oak, magnolia, loblolly, Florida mahogany, cedar, cypress,
cabbage palm, live oak, pawpaw, grape-vines of a most
luxuriant growth, the hybiscus, titi, &c. There are also
numerous, and some of them extensive, savannas or prairies, covered with tall grass.
The principal rocks of this country are lime-stone, (which
may be said to be the vast basis of this whole region,)
soap-stone and sand-stone. In the region of the Appalachicola, fine burr mill-stone is found. The entire coast is
marked by numerous bays, bayous, lagoons, &c. ; whilst
the interior abounds in lakes.
Productions, Soil, <fyc.—In that part of Florida, which
lies west of the Suwannee River, and which Gen. Jackson
designated as West Florida, when he was governor of the
country in 1821, there are about 10,560.000 acres. If
we deduct one-fourth part for bays, lakes, rivers, &c. there
will remain 7,920,000. Of this quantity, two-thirds, or
5,280,000 acres, may be considered as covered with pine
barrens; 800,000 with tillable upland; 600,000 with
hammock or interval land; 500,000 with swamp ; and
400,000 with marsh.
Of the peninsular part, it might perhaps be said, that
the proportion of good and tillable land is not greater than
in West Florida. But although the proportion of untillable land, consisting of pine barrens, sterile savannas,
swamps, and marshes, is very great, yet there is a very
considerable extent, in all, of very productive land. It is,
however, so much dispersed along the rivers and lakes,
that the population will never be very dense. There is an

304

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

almost boundless extent of range for cattle, horses, hogs,
& c , in this country, and it will always be, as it is now in
many places, a land of graziers, and of pastoral wealth.
Many graziers and farmers can count, not only hundreds,
but also thousands of heads of cattle.
The agricultural productions of Florida are not numerous. Cotton is the chief staple. Three kinds are cultivated,—sea island, Mexican, and green seed. The first
grows only in the vicinity of the sea, and under the influences of the sea breezes. It is a fine species of cotton,
grows sometimes to the height of fifteen feet, throws off
extensive branches, and bears a yellow flower. It is
planted in wide rows, and in the months of February and
March. The seed is extricated by passing the cotton between two small wooden cylinders. This is the best species of cotton. It is uncertain whether it is indigenous to
America or not. Its cultivation is limited, for want of
suitable soil, but it is a very profitable crop.
The green seed is more cultivated. It has a short
staple. The Mexican has a longer staple, and is an intermediate kind between the green seed and the sea island.
Rice is a profitable crop here. It grows well on marsh,
hammock, and upland, and even pine barrens, when they
are well trodden, or cowpenned, as it is termed. It is a
mistake to suppose that rice will only grow where it can
be overflown with water. If the weeds are subdued by
the hoe, it will grow well on the uplands of Florida, as is
well known by those who have made the experiment. Uplands produce here seventy bushels per acre ; whilst the
more rich bottoms yield eighty bushels; and even the
piney land will produce sixty bushels. Rice sells here
for 75 cents a bushel in market, or from three to four
dollars per hundred when cleaned.
Sugar-cane grows finely on the good lands in Florida.
The Otaheite cane is principally cultivated. The Philippine or ribband cane is rapidly supplanting this species of
cane in Louisiana, and will probably do so here. The
growing of sugar cane has greatly increased within a few
years, and much is now made in West Florida; where as
many as 3,000 pounds have been made on an acre.
The sweet potatoe grows admirably in this Territory,
even in the pine barrens. It is greatly cultivated, and
excellent. The Irish potatoe is raised> but does not last

FLORIDA.

305

so well as those raised in the north. Tobacco is a native
of this country, and was introduced into Europe from this
country, in 1560. One species still grows wild on the
hammock lands.
Indigo was formerly raised for exportation. When the
English possessed Florida, 40,000 pounds sterling were
paid in one year, in London, for Florida indigo. At present, none is raised for exportation, but farmers cultivate
it for family use. It is easily raised. It is indeed a native
of this region, and grows wild in the barrens. It is astonishing that it is not cultivated for exportation from the
Territory.
The small grains are but little attended to, excepting
corn, which grows well, in many places. Rye grows well
on uplands, wheat does not near the coast. It is thought
that barley would grow well if cultivated. The Palma
Christi, and the benne plant produce profitable crops. Peas
and beans grow well here. Pumpkins, water-melons, musk
melons and cucumbers are raised with great ease and in
great perfection. Squashes, beets, onions and parsnips are
raised with some difficulty. Lettuce, radishes, cabbage,
and carrots do well, particularly the two former. But the
egg-plant and the tomato grow admirably, and are more
generally used than most other garden vegetables, during
the summer season.
Various grasses grow spontaneously and abundantly
here.
The fig, both the large black and the small yellow or
coeleste, grows finely, and any quantity might be raised.
Two, and sometimes three, crops are produced in a year.
The sweet, sour, and bitter sweet, are three species of
oranges which grow well in this Territory. The first
named needs much care. Some orange trees here are believed to be 150 years old. Florida could furnish oranges
enough for the consumption of the whole country, if navigable facilities were opened into every part of it. About
1,200,000 oranges are gathered at St. Augustine annually ;
and in its vicinity 300,000 more. The pomegranate grows
finely here. The pear tolerably, and the apple poorly.
Peaches do well. Strawberries grow finely here, as also
do dewberries, blackberries, &c.
The exports are cotton, cedar logs, live oak timber,
26*

306

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

boards, staves, deer skins and horns, beeswax, tallow,
hides, peltry and bricks. Salt will be a manufacture of
immense importance in this Territory. It is believed that
soon from 500,000 to 800,000 bushels will be made at the
ponds which have been formed at Key West.
There is a great abundance of game, such as deer, turkies, geese, ducks, and other water fowls of great variety,
in this Territory.
The vegetable kingdom is as rich as
the animal; but the mineral is far more limited.
Rivers,—The St. John's is a remarkable river, rising in
the middle of Florida, and flowing northward it falls into
the Atlantic Ocean, north of St. Augustine. It is navigable to Lake Monroe in the centre of the peninsula. For
the last 100 miles of its course it is from 2 to 5 miles
wide, and is also from 8 to 10 feet deep. Several small
rivers flow from the peninsula, such as Indian, St. Lucie,
Charlotte, Hillsboro', and a vast number of smaller
streams. The Suwannee, Ocklockonne, Appalachicola,
Choctawhatchee, Yellow-water, Black-water, Escambia
and Perdido, flow down from Georgia and Alabama* into
the Gulf of Mexico. The Appalachicola is navigable for
steam-boats several hundred miles. This Territory has
a great number of boatable streams. Most of the rivers
have, however, shallow bars at their mouths. There is a
great number of bays and sounds along the coast. By a
little effort and expense, a fine steam-boat navigation could
be opened along the main land, and between it and the
islands from Mobile Bay to the Ocklockonne Bay ; and
also from St. Mary's to the mouth of St. John's, and up
that river to its sources ; thence to Indian River ; and
from the mouth of that River along the sounds on the
eastern side to the southern extremity, and even to Key
West, which is on one of the Tortuga Islands.
Towns. PENSACOLA stands on the north-west bank of
the bay of Pensacola, in N . lat. 30° 23' and long. 10° 05'.
It is an ancient, pleasant, and very healthy place.. During
the first century after it was founded it flourished but
slowly. When it fell into the hands of the English in
1763, it began to grow rapidly. The public places are
the Court House, Catholic Church, Market House, Custom
House and Public Store. The shape of the city is oblong.
The bay affords the best harbour on the Gulf shore. The
Government has established a naval station and depot here.

FLORIDA*

307

The health of this place is excellent. The climate is
pleasant, though warm. The extent of white sand banks
in its vicinity gives the bay shore a singular, and to the
eye, in clear days, a distressing appearance. The population is nearly 3000. It is 242 miles from Tallahassee,
62 from Mobile, and 1050 from Washington.
TALLAHASSEE is the seat of Government for!this Territory. It stands 22 miles north by wTest from St. Marks,
on an elevated situation, in a picturesque region, and is
about midway between the eastern and western boundaries.
It is 896 miles from Washington city. It is now a beautiful and growing place, and has about 1,000 inhabitants.
The public buildings are the Court House, State House,
several Churches, Market, Masonic Hall or lodge, &c.
The region around is beautiful and fertile. A fine stream
flows on the eastern side of the city.
Several large
springs, and particularly the one which is at the sources of
the Wakulla, in the vicinity of this place, are objects of
curiosity.
ST. AUGUSTINE is the largest town or city in Florida.
It stands on a beautiful bay, which is connected with the
sound that separates Anastatia Island from the main land.
The city stands opposite to the inlet, and two miles from
the Atlantic ocean. It is protected by a strong fort, called
Fort St. John. The city is oblong, and has a very beautiful appearance. The houses are generally built of a
peculiar kind of stone of this region—a concrete of seashells.
The population is near 4,000. The climate is delightful. This is probably the most salubrious place for invalids
from the north, in all the southern part of our country.
Oranges, limes, lemons, &c. grow finely here. It is 841
miles from Washington city.
K E Y - W E S T stands on Thompson's Island, one of the
Tortugas, off the south-western point of the Florida Peninsula. It is a naval station of much importance. Several
other small places might be mentioned, if there was space
for it.
It is expected that a ship canal will be made across the
northern part of the peninsula of Florida. There can be
no doubt about the practicability of the work, and still less
about its vast national importance.

^08

VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPI.

Climate,—The climate of Florida is in general healthy
in all situations which are remote from the marshes and
swamps. It enjoys daily the most delightful sea-breezes.
From October to June is the most pleasant portion of the
year in this region.
Education,—Congress has appropriated 877,484 acres
of public land for common schools in this territory, .besides
46,080 acres for a college, and 1,120 for a seat of government. Education is much neglected here. And it will be
so, it is to be feared, for some years.
GENERAL REMARKS;—1. The purchase of this territory
was of vast importance to our country. The land is found
to be much more valuable than was anticipated. It yields
abundantly most of the tropical fruits. It is believed that
coffee and the cocoa-nut tree will flourish here. Besides,
the possession of this territory gives increased protection
to the whole country.
2. This country abounds in curiosities, such as remarkable springs, caves, &c. and also in relics of the first Spanish settlements here. In some places are to be seen the
ruins of ancient towns and villages. Groves of oranges,
limes, lemons, peach-trees, &c. are to be seen, which were
originally planted by European settlers.
3. This country was eaily settled by the Spanish, after
many contests with the Indians, and their neighbours the
English on the one side, and the French on the other. In
1763, they ceded it to England. In 1781, they regained
it, and retained it by the treaty of 1783. In 1821, it was
ceded to this country for the consideration of $5,000,000,
allowed by the Spanish government to ours, for claims for
spoliations.
4. There are remnants of several tribes of Indians in
this territory, the chief of which are the Seminoles, who, it
is expected, will remove with the Creeks west of the Mississippi.
5. Emigrants who remove to this terrritory from Georgia, the Carolinas or Virginia, will generally enter it by
the roads which lead to it from Georgia and Alabama.
Those who remove to this territory from the middle and
northern states, or from foreign countries, will go to it by
ship.
6. There are 30,194,070 acres of public land in Florida,

309

FLORIDA.

belonging to the general government; and 5,166,500, to
which the Indian title was not extinguished on the 1st of
January 1832.
Land Offices*
Tallahassee,
St. Augustine,

Registers*
Geo. W. Ward,
Charles S. Downing,

Receivers.
Rich. K. Call,
Wm. H Allen.

NOTE.—Including Florida, the amount of unsold public land in the States and Territories in the Valley of
the Mississippi, the geographical description of which I
have now completed, was, on the first of January, 1832,
—227,293,884 acres, exclusive of 113,577,869 acres, to
which the Indian title was not then extinguished. In the
same States and Territories, 2,187,665 acres have been
appropriated for Internal Improvements; 508,000 for colleges, universities, &c. ; 7,952,538 for common schools;
89,605 for charitable and religious institutions, including
23,040 acres in Florida, for the Deaf and Dumb Asylum
at Danville, Kentucky, and 23,040 in Alabama, for the
Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Hartford, Connecticut; 21,589
for seats of government; and 298,288 of saline reserva^
tions, given up to the states in which they are situated, foy
their use.

310

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

CHAPTER XXV.
THE COLLEGES, UNIVERSITIES, &c. OF THE WEST
HAVING given a geographical description of each State
and Territory in the Valley of the Mississippi, I now proceed to give an account of the Colleges, Universities, Medical Schools, Theological Seminaries, and Deaf and Dumb
Asylums of that portion of our country. In doing this I
shall survey the states in the same order in which I have
already mentioned them.
W E S T E R N PENNSYLVANIA.—There are the following Literary Institutions in Western Pennsylvania.
1. JEFFERSON COLLEGE, at Canonsburg. This institution is located on the road from Pittsburg to Wheeling, and is eighteen miles from the former place. It has
been, in a remarkable degree, successful. It has grown
up gradually out of the first Grammar School established
west of the Allegheny Mountains. It was incorporated as
a college, in 1802. The number of its alumni is about
600. The present number of under graduates is 200,
besides nearly thirty in the preparatory school connected with the college. There is a Medical School in
Philadelphia connected with this college, containing about
one hundred and fifty students. There are 2,500 volumes
in the libraries of the college. There are three Professors
in the institution. The Rev. Matthew Brown, D. D. is
the President. A farm has been purchased, for the purpose of connecting manual labour with the institution.
The general fund given by the State and by individuals to
this institution, amounts to $9,000 ; and a fund by legacy,
for the support of pious young men who have the ministry
in view, amounts to six thousand dollars. The first president of this institution was the Rev. John Watson, M. A.,
one of the most distinguished young men, as it regards
talents and piety, that this country has ever produced.
2. WASHINGTON COLLEGE, at Washington,

This in-

stitution was founded in 1806. After flourishing nearly
twenty years, it declined, and finally suspended operations

COLLEGES, ETC.

311

for two years. It has, however, re-commenced, under
favourable auspices. The number of students this session
is about 140. A professorship of English literature has
been established, with the view, more especially, of educating and preparing young men for taking charge of common schools. John L . Gow, Esq. has been appointed
Professor of that department. The legislature of the State
have appropriated $500 per annum, for five y%ars, to aid
the institution in carrying this design into effect. The
Rev. Mr. M'Connaughy is the President. The town of
Washington is beautifully situated on the National Road
from Cumberland to the West, and is about midway between Brownsville and Wheeling, and also between Pittsburg and Wheeling; and is not far from being 25 miles
distant from each of the three places.
3. ALLEGHENY COLLEGE, at Meadmlle.
This institution was established by the Rev. Timothy Alden. The
college edifice is spacious, and is named Bentley Hall, in
honour of the Rev. Dr. Bentley, of Salem, Mass., a distinguished benefactor of the institution. I believe that this
edifice is not completed. The institution has a valuable
library of 8000 volumes, principally the donation of Dr.
Bentley. The Pittsburg Conference of the Methodist
Episcopal church has obtained this college, and have appointed the Rev. Martin Ruter, D. D. President. Its prospects are flattering. The college which the Conference
had at Uniontown, called Madison College, has been given
up.
4. WESTERN UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA, at Pitts-

burg. This institution was founded in 1820. The Rev.
Dr. R. Bruce is the president. The number of instructors
is four; of graduates fifty ; of undergraduates in all the
departments, 70. A very beautiful edifice has recently
been erected in the western part of Pittsburg for this
institution.
5. WESTERN THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY, at

Allegheny-

town. Alleghenytown is immediately opposite to Pittsburg, on the north side of the Allegheny river, and is connected with Pittsburg by a bridge. A building was
commenced in 1829, and will be completed during this
summer. It stands on a beautiful insulated hill, in the
form of a ridge, which rises one hundred feet higher than

312

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

the waters of the Allegheny River. The central edifice
is sixty feet in length, fifty in breadth, and four stories
high, having at each of its ends a portico projecting eight
feet from the building itself, adorned with Corinthian columns, and to be finished in a corresponding manner, and
with a cupola in the centre. On the sides of the main
building are two wings, each extending in length fifty
feet from the centre edifice, forty-five in breadth, and
three stories high. The exterior walls are constructed of
brick, and all the interior ones of stone, taken from the
excavated site of the institution. This entire building has
besides an oratory, or chapel, 45 by 25 feet, and containing a gallery, with shelves, sufficient to hold an extensive
library ; a dining hall; suites of rooms for the Professors,
and others for the accommodation of a steward ; and from
70 to 80 rooms, chiefly single, or for one occupant, for the
use of the students of the seminary. The prospect from
the building, over the city of Pittsburg, with its bridges,
manufactories, rivers, canals, steam-boats, &c. is delightful.
This institution is at one of the great central places of
influence in our country. In October 1829, the Rev.
Luther Halsey, D. D. was inaugurated as Professor of
Theology, and the Rev. John W. Nevin appointed Teacher
of Oriental and Biblical Literature. In May 1833, the
Rev. Ezra Fisk, D. D. was appointed professor of Ecclesiastical History, &c. An excellent library, of about 3000
volumes, belongs to the institution, a large part of which
was collected by the Rev. A. D. Campbell, on his late visit
to Great Britain, on its behalf. During the last session there
were thirty students. Board can be obtained here for
$1,00 per week.
6. There is a Theological School at Canonsburg,
belonging to the Associate Church. The Rev. Dr. Ramsay
is the Professor of Theology. There are several students
attending it,
7. There is a Theological School, lately established at
Pittsburgh belonging to the Associate Reformed Church.
The Rev. Mr. Pressley of South Carolina has been appointed Professor of Theology, and has entered upon the
duties of his office.
A successful effort is now making to establish a manual
labor academy at Zelinople, about twenty-five miles from

313

COLLEGES, ETC.

Pittsburg. A suitable farm has been purchased for the
purpose.
W E S T E R N VIRGINIA.—There is no college established in this part of Virginia.
OHIO,—1. M I A M I UNIVERSITY.—This flourishing in-

stitution is established at Oxford, Butler county, 27 miles
from Cincinnati, and 12 west of the Miami canal. It is endowed by the state, and possesses the township of land in
which it is established, yielding an annual income of between
$4,000 and $5,000. It has two spacious buildings of brick,
containing a chapel, libraries, philosophical apparatus, and
48 rooms for students. The libraries amount to 2,000
volumes. The whole number of students, in all the departments is about 160. There is an English Scientific
department, containing about 20 students. The Hebrew
Scriptures form a part of the regular course of studies.
The Rev. Robert H. Bishop, D. D. is President.
2. UNIVERSITY OF O H I O , at Athens.

Athens is forty-one

miles west of Marietta, 52 east of Chillicothe, and 37 from
the Ohio river. It is situated on an elevated peninsula,
formed by a bend of the Hockhocking, which meanders
around the town. The location is elevated, and the prospect extensive. The University was founded in 1802. The
Rev. Robert G. Wilson, D. D. is the President. The number of students is about ninety. It is endowed with 46,
080 acres of land, which yield about $2,300 dollars annually. A college edifice of brick, large and elegant, was
erected in 1817.
3. WESTERN RESERVE COLLEGE, at Hudson.

This in-

stitution is situated in Portage county, in the north-eastern
division of the state. It was founded by the Western
Reserve Synod, in 1826. It has now about 80 students. Between 20,000 and 30,000 dollars have been
subscribed to its funds, principally in New York and Philadelphia. More than 19,000 dollars have been subscribed
in Ohio. The Western Reserve has now more than 100,
000 inhabitants. It is capable of sustaining 1,500,000 inhabitants. It is supposed that it will eventually furnish 200
students to this college. There is a considerable number
of students in the preparatory department.
T h e manual labour plan has been adopted to some ex27

'

14

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

tent. About one half of the students are members of the
Mechanical Society.
4. KENYON COLLEGE, at Gambler.
This institution is
Episcopal, and was lately under the Presidency of the Rt.
Rev. Bishop Chase. The Rev. Charles P. M'Ilvaine,D.D.
is now the Rector of this College, as well as Bishop of the
state of Ohio. Gambier is in Knox county, five miles from
Mount Vernon, and in the centre of the State. The location is elevated and beautiful. The college was established in 1828. A part of the college buildings are completed
sufficient to accommodate one hundred students, which is
not more than a fourth of what the entire plan contemplates.
The building for tke.grammar school, just completed, will
accommodate seventy students. There are 150 students at
present in the college and grammer school. There are five
professors in the college, and three teachers in the grammar
school. The institution derived very valuable aid from the
agency which Bishop Chase performed in England. It has
six or eight thousand acres of land. A Diocesan Theological Seminary is connected with this institution.
5. N E W ATHENS COLLEGE, is

in

the

village of

New

Athens, in Harrison county, (in the eastern part of the state)
30 miles south-west of Steubenville, and ten miles northwest of St. Clairsville. It was incorporated five or six
years since- It has one brick building of three stories,
which will accommodate fifty students, which is the number of students in all the departments of this institution.
6. LANE SEMINARY, at Cincinnati.
The object of this
institution is to promote Theological education. It was commenced at the instance of Messrs. E. & W. A. Lane, merchants, of New Orleans, who made a very liberal offer of
aid. The location of this institution is peculiarly auspicious in its bearing upon the whole western region. It is
accessible from almost every part of the Valley by steamboat and canal navigation. Buildings, towards which the
people of Cincinnati have subscribed nearly $20,000, are
erected upon the Walnut Hills, about two miles from the
city. The site is one of great beauty, overlooking the city
of Cincinnati, and the delightful valley, in the form of a
vast amphitheatre, in which it stands. There is a manual
labour academy connected with this institution, which has
gone into operation. Instruction in the Theological department commenced in 1832. Successful efforts bave

COLLEGES, ETC.

315

been made to endow three professorships, and secure Professors of distinguished talents. About fifty thousand dollars have been subscribed in Philadelphia, New York and
New England to endow these professorships. The Rev.
Dr. Beecher of Boston, the Rev. Mr. Biggs of the vicinity
of Philadelphia, and the Rev. Calvin E . Stowe, of Dartmouth college, have been appointed Professors, and have
entered upon the duties of their offices.
7. MEDICAL COLLEGE OF CINCINNATI, has eight Pro-

fessors, and upwards of one hundred students.
Lectures
commence on the first Monday of November, annually,
and continue until the last of February.
8. There was a CINCINNATI COLLEGE incorporated in

1819, but it has suspended its operations. But a Catholic
College under the name of the Athenaeum, has lately been
established in that city.
9. A College has been recently incorporated at Ripley.
10.

A THEOLOGICAL SCHOOL, has been commenced at

.Columbus, by a Minister of the Gospel belonging to the
Lutheran Church.
11. There is a D E A F AND DUMB ASYLUM, established

at Columbus, which has about 30 pupils, and promises to
do well. It has been aided by the Legislature of the
State.
At Marietta, there is what is termed T H E INSTITUTE
OF EDUCATION. It contains four Departments: infant
school, primary school, high school, and young ladies'
school. A most important object of this institution is to
prepare teachers. A college is about to be established
here.
An establishment of a somewhat similar character exists
at Chillicothe.
INDIANA.—-1. INDIANA COLLEGE AT Bloomington,—

This College was chartered in 1825, but did not commence its operations until 1828. The Rev. Andrew Wylie, D. D. is President. It has several Professors. A
year ago this rising institution had 51 students. It bids
fair to become one of the most distinguished seminaries
of learning in the West. The situation of the place is
highly salubrious. Board, washing, fuel, &c. cost but
$1 37 1-2 cents per week.
2. HANOVER ACADEMY, or Theological Institution.—

This institution was established in 1827, at Hanover, Je£

316

VALLEY OF T H E MISSISSIPPI.

ferson county, 6 miles below the town of Madison, and
near the Ohio River.
It is principally intended for theological instruction, and is under the care of the Synod of
Indiana.
The Rev. John Matthews, D. D. late of Shepherdstown, Va. is professor of theology. A professor of
the oriental languages and biblical literature has been
appointed. There are one hundred students at present in
this flourishing institution, one half of whom have the
ministry in view. Manual labour is connected with study
in this institution. For this purpose, a valuable farm has
been given to this academy. The price of boarding, including washing and light, &c. is about 75 cents per
week. And it is expected that, in a short time, the whole
expense of a student, for board, will not exceed $30 per
annum, exclusive of two or three hours' labour daily. The
Rev. James Blythe, D. D. of Lexington, Ky. has become
President of this institution, and Professors of Mathematics, Languages, &c. have been appointed, and have entered
upon their duties.
MICHIGAN.—There is no College established in
Michigan.
Congress has appropriated 46,080 acres of
land to establish one at a proper time.
KENTUCKY.—1.

TRANSYLVANIA

UNIVERSITY,

at

Lexington.—This institution was chartered in 1798. It
has a good library, and a respectable philosophical and
chemical apparatus. It is delightfully situated in a region
of great resources and fertility. Last year the number of
its students, in the academical department, was eighty-one,
and its instructors, six : The number of its medical students each winter is usually about two hundred, and its
law students twenty. There are six professors in the medical department.
In May, 1829, the principal building of
this University was destroyed by fire, which loss, together
with the books consumed, was estimated at §38,000. There
was an insurance on the property to the amount of $10,000.
The Rev. Alva Woods, D. D. the late President of this
institution, has become the President of the University of
Alabama; and the Rev. B. O. Peers has been appointed
his successor.
New and valuable buildings are now in progress, and
will soon be completed.
2. CENTRE COLLEGE, at Danville,—This

College was

COLLEGES, E T C .

317

founded by the Synod of Kentucky, in 1822. The Rev.
J. C. Young, M. A. is the President. It is represented as
in a highly prosperous condition. Connected with the
college are a hundred and twelve acres of land, furnishing excellent conveniences for manual labour. The principal building is of brick, and will accommodate about
sixty students. This rising institution is under the instruction of an able and enterprising faculty. It has about
one hundred students, and their number is constantly increasingi A theological department was connected with
the college by the Synod, a few years since, but it has
not gone into operation.
3. GEORGETOWN COLLEGE, at Georgetoivn, twelve miles

from Lexington, on the Cincinnati road. The Rev.
Luther Rice is the President, assisted by three professors
mnd one tutor, besides the teacher of the grammar school.
This institution has just commenced its operations. It
has now about ninety students. It has a well selected
library and a considerable chemical and philosophical apparatus.
4. AUGUSTA COLLEGE.—This institution is in the town

of Augusta on the Ohio river, in Bracken County, about
40 miles above Cincinnati. It was established as an academy in 1822. Its first commencement was held in August
1829. Connected with the college is an academical department under three instructors. The college edifice is
three stories high, eighty feet by forty, and well finished.
The Rev. Mr. Tomlinson is the President. There are
several professors, men of talents and well qualified for
their offices. There are more than one hundred students,
I understand, in the collegiate department, and the number
is constantly increasing. The library contains 2,000
volumes. This flourishing institution is under the care of
the Methodists.
5. CUMBERLAND COLLEGE at Princeton.—This

institution

is under the care of the Cumberland Presbyterians. It was
founded in 1825. The Rev. F . R. Cossitt is the President.
It had, in 1831, one hundred and twenty students in all
the departments^sixty of whom were professors of religion,
Its library has one thousand volumes. A college building,
one hundred feet long, forty-five wide, and three stories
27*

318

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

high, has been erected. This institution is in a flourishing
condition.
6. CATHOLIC SEMINARY, at Bardstown, in Nelson County. As I have not visited this institution, I can only state
what I have learned from others. The college at this
place has two hundred students, and there is an ecclesiastical seminary with twenty or thirty. Another institution
of the kind also exists. Seven priests are engaged in instruction. The second wing of the college cost more than
#7,000. The Bishop of Bardstown is constituted perpetual rector. The legislature has incorporated it, with
all desired privileges. Three female religious orders have
been formed : the " Lovers of Mary," the " Sisters of
Charity," and the " Dominican Nuns." More than two
hundred young women in these institutions, are devoted to
the education of persons of their own sex. " In our two
seminaries," says Bishop Flaget, two or three years since,
" we have one tonsured, eleven minorities, four sub-deacons, and three deacons, with seventeen or eighteen young
persons more, who have been studying two or three years
for the priesthood."
7. There is a Deaf and Dumb Asylum established at
Danville, which is doing well. Congress has made a donation of a township of public land (23,040 acres) in Florida,
to this important institution.
There are several schools at Lexington of great excellence—one for boys, embracing much of the Festalozzian
system.
There is an Indian school under the superintendence of
Colonel R. M. Johnson, in Scott County, which has one
hundred scholars, from the Choctaws, Creeks, Putawatomies, and Miamies, and supported chiefly by their own
funds. This interesting school was established at the
house of Col. Johnson by the Choctaws some years ago.
It is very flourishing and will do good.
T E N N E S S E E . — 1 . The UNIVERSITY

of NASHVILLE,

which is an institution of vast importance to the state of
Tennessee, stands on the brow of a hill on the south of the
city, and has a commanding view of the place and of the
surrounding region. This institution, though chartered in
1806, did not assume a regular college organization until
1825.
In 1827, the name was changed, by an act of the

319

COLLEGES, ETC.

legislature, from " Cumberland College," to the " University of Nashville," and corresponding rights were conferred.
The main building and one of the wings, together with the
laboratory, have been built since 1825, when the institution was resuscitated. The laboratory is one of the finest
in our country. The chemical and philosophical apparatus
was imported from London at great expense, and is every
thing that can be desired. The mineralogical Cabinet is
certainly next to that of Yale College, and not inferior to
it as it respects the purposes which it subserves. It is a
very valuable and extensive collection. This department,
as well as every other in the college, is superintended with
much talent. There is no college in our country that can
afford advantages superior to those of this institution. The
Rev. Philip Lindsley, D. D. is the President. He is assisted by Professors every way qualified for the work.
The number of students is about 100, which is the largest number it has ever had. The number has been
steadily increasing every year, and it will be far" greater when the institution becomes better known ; for it is yet
in its infancy.
2.

GREENVILLE

COLLEGE.—This

institution

is

at

Greenville, in East Tennessee. It has no lands, but funds
to the amount of about $5,600. It is entirely indebted to
private bounty for its existence. It was incorporated in
1794. It has about 30 students. Henry Hoss, Esq. is
the President.
3.

KNOXVILLE COLLEGE.—This institution

is also in

East Tennessee, and is under the care of the Rev. Dr. Coffin.
The number of students is about 35.
4. WASHINGTON COLLEGE, nine miles from

Jonesboro\

in East Tennessee. This institution has about 30 students.
The Rev. Mr. Maclin is the President. This college was
established by the Rev. Samuel Doak, D. D. who was the
father of literature in East Tennessee.
5. SOUTHERN AND WESTERN THEOLOGICAL INSTITUTION

at Maryville.—This institution is in East Tennessee, and
is both literary and theological. T h e whole number of
students a few months since, was 55 ; 22 of whom were in
the theological, and 33 in the literary department. Manual labour on a farm constitutes part of their exercise.
This seminary was established in 1819, by the Synod of

320

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Tennessee. The Rev. Isaac Anderson, D. D. is the principal instructor. The library contains 5,550 volumes.
A Manual Labour Academy has been established in the
vicinity of Columbia, in West Tennessee, under the care
of the Rev. R. Hardin, D. D. N
I L L I N O I S . — 1 . ILLINOIS COLLEGE, at

Jacksonville—

This institution was founded in 1829. Funds were obtained,
two years ago, for it to the amount of $13,000. More than
thirty studentsMve joined the institution, and its prospects
are very encouraging. Manual labour, in agriculture, &c.
is connected with this college. Efforts are now making
to raise funds in the eastern cities and towns, to secure
permanence to this rising institution ; and the prospect is,
that $36,000 will be raised in Philadelphia, New-York,
and New-England. The Rev. Edward Beecher, late pastor of the Park-street church, Boston, is the President,
He has the assistance of able professors.
2. ROCK SPRING THEOLOGICAL SCHOOL.—F*ock Spring

is a small village, eighteen miles east of St. Louis, on the
principal stage-road to Vincennes. The general plan of
the studies is accommodated to the circumstances of the
preachers of the Gospel, and to the wants of the country.
Ministers who have families, and those who are somewhat
advanced in life, may attend the institution as long as may
suit their convenience. It is established on liberal principles, though under the particular control of the Baptist
denomination. There are two departments. 1st. A high
school, conducted on the plan of a New-England academy.
2d. A theological department, designed for preachers of
the Gospel of any age. As soon as circumstances will
allow, a regular Classical and Theological education will
be pursued. The whole expenses for an individual, for a
year, allowing the tuition to be gratuitous, including clothing, is about $50. The Rev. John M. Peck is Professor
of Christian Theology. There are 1,200 volumes in the
library of the institution. The number of students is about
fifty. There are three sessions in the year, one fifteen
weeks, and two of fourteen each.
MISSOURI.—There are two colleges in this state. 1 .
The CATHOLIC COLLEGE at St. Louis, which has several

Professors, and 120 students, and is very flourishing. It
is under the management of the Jesuits. 2. A new college

COLLEGES, ETC.

321

under the control of Presbyterians, is commencing operations at or near Palmyra, in Marion county.
The Catholics have several schools and academies in
this state.
1. A female seminary, at Florissant, about twenty miles
above St. Louis, where there is a large number of young
ladies receiving their education.
2. A charity school, of about forty scholars, in St. Louis,
taught by two or three Sisters.
3. There is a seminary in Perry county, at Perryville,
about eighty-five miles south of St. Louis, which has three
departments,—one for boys, in which are nearly 100 youth,
many of them from the West Indies and Louisiana, receiving an education , another for girls, where there is a
*
large number ; and a third for young men, who are pre*
paring for the priesthood. In January last, there were
twenty-four such young men. There are seven priests
here engaged in giving instruction, besides other teachers.
The whole is under the superintendence of the Bishop of
St. Louis.
4. In the lower part of the same county, (Perry) on
Apple Creek, a new female seminary is about to be established.
ARKANSAS.—There is no college established in Arkansas. Congress has appropriated 46,080 acres for this
purpose.
MISSISSIPPI.—-Mississippi has two colleges. 1. J E F FERSON COLLEGE, at Washington, six miles from Natchez.
This institution has done but little hitherto. It is now reorganized, and under the care of Captain Partridge and a
gentlemen from West Point, who have a flourishing
school. They have a large number of scholars. 2. A
new college in the neighbourhood of Port
Gibson.
This institution is under the control of the Presbytery of
Mississippi. It has received an ample charter. It bids fair
to become a valuable institution. The Rev. Jeremiah
Chamberlin,D. D. is the President.
LOUISIANA.—1. COLLEGE at Jackson, in the eastern
part of the state. This is the only Protestant college in the
state. It is at present under the management of a gentle*
man who received his education at West Point. What its

322

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

present condition is, I know not. It is amply supported by
the state.
2. There is a flourishing Catholic college at New Orleans.
ALABAMA.—There are three colleges in^ Alabama.
1. One at La Grange, a small town on the road from
Tuscumbia to Tuscaloosa, and about ten miles from the
former. It is flourishing. Efforts are making to enlarge
the departments of study, and introduce an extended
course. There are about 100 scholars in classes of all
gradations. The Rev. Mr. Payne is the President, assisted
by several other teachers. This college is under the direction of the Methodists.
2. Bishop Portier, who is the Catholic Bishop of the
Diocese of Mobile, has established a college near Mobile,
which has about 120 youth in it, taught by several teach^
ers.
3. But the most important institution in this state, if we
may judge from the advantages which it possesses in point
of funds, is the UNIVERSITY OF ALABAMA, located at Tuscaloosa. Some description of this institution may not be
unacceptable to the reader. By an act of Congress of
March 2d, 1819, one section of land (640 acres) was
granted to the inhabitants of each township for the use of
schools, and 72 sections or two townships, for the support
of a seminary of learning. On the 22d of March, 1828,
the trustees of the University of Alabama, having been
previously appointed by the legislature, selected as the
site of the institution the place known as Mair's Spring,
on the road towards Huntsville, and about a mile and a
half from the town of Tuscaloosa. The town of Tuscaloosa stands on the south bank of the Black Warrior, and
the road just mentioned pursues an eastern direction from
the town, and the University stands on the north side of
the road, facing the south. An area of 630 by 600 feet
borders on the road. On the east and west sides of this
area, it is contemplated to erect on each side, three buildings for dormitories; the central one on each side will
be 150 feet long ; and three stories high, having six rooms
for study and twelve for sleeping, in each story ; the other
two buildings on each side of the area are to be 100 feet
long each, of three stories, and containing four rooms for

COLLEGES, ETC.

323

study, and eight for sleeping, in each story. Only two of
these buildings have been completed, one on each side at
the northern extremity. What is to constitute the centre
building on the east side of the area is now in progress,
and the others will be built in the course of a year cr two,
and before they will be needed. On the northern side
stand three buildings, the central one of which is the Labaratory, containing the Chemical and Philosophical
Apparatus, Museum, Cabinet of Minerals, and Lecture
Rooms, &c. The other two, one on each side of the Labaratory, are double houses, each sufficient to contain two
familes of the professors, and having a lecture room between each conjoined edifice. On the right and left, at
the extremities of the line upon which these houses stand,
are two buildings for Refectories or dining halls. And in
the centre of the area above mentioned stands the Rotunda,
circular as its name imports, surmounted with an elegant
dome, and surrounded by lofty columns. This building is
seventy feet in diameter in the inside. The lower story is
high and has a gallery supported by columns. This spacious and elegant hall is for prayers, and the commencements, and other public exercises. The second story is
appropriated to the library.
About half of the two townships, (or 46,080 acres) given
by Congress, have been sold, and the avails, (such as have
not been used in erecting buildings) have been invested in
the stock of the state Bank of Alabama. The amount so
invested is more than $100,000, and it is constantly increasing from debts due for the land sold, and from the sale of
other lands.
This Institution went into operation two years ago, and
has more than 100 students at this time. The Rev. Alva
Woods, D. D. is the President. There are several other
Professors.
I have now completed the survey of the literary institutions in the Valley of the Mississippi. A summary of the
whole is, that there are in actual operation (of all gradations) thirty Colleges; ten Theological Seminaries, exclusive of the provision made for Theological instruction in
two or three colleges, but inclusive of several academies,
(such as that at Hanover, Indiana,) of a mixed character;
three Medical Schools; one Law School; and two Asylums

324

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

for the instruction of the deaf and dumb. The number of
academies and high schools I do not know with sufficient
accuracy to attempt to state it. As to academies and common schools, I have already said much. I will not here repeat what I have said in previous chapters.
To the preceding account of the colleges, &c. in the Valley of the Mississippi, I would subjoin the following very
brief statement respecting the periodical literature of that
interesting portion of our country.
There are from 280 to 300 newspapers published every
week in the Valley of the Mississippi. Of these, 10 or 12
are religious papers, and several more are partly so. Many
of the newspapers of the West have but a limited circulation, being confined chiefly to the counties in which they
are published.
In Cincinnati there are four daily, and two semi-weekly
papers, besides several which are weekly. There are
also three monthly, two semi-monthly, one quarterly (Medical,) Review. In Louisville there are two, in New Orleans five, in Nashville one, in Mobile two, St. Louis one,
and Pittsburg one, daily papers. In most of these places,
semi-weekly papers are also published.
A valuable medical work called " The Transylvania
Medical Journal," conducted by members of the Medical
Faculty of Transylvania University, is published at Lexington, Kentucky.
The periodical press in many places in the West enlists
much talent. I could mention several newspapers which
rival the best of those which are published in the East.
I suppose that upon an average the western newspapers
circulate 800 copies each : which, estimating the number
at 280, would give 224,000 copies. This I believe to be a
reasonable calculation. The number of families in the West
is about 675,000. From this it would appear that about
one-third of the families receive a newspaper; which is
probably the case. The whole number of newspapers in the
United States is about 1,000, of which 720 are published
in the Atlantic states.
The limited nature of this work will not allow me to say
more on this important subject. Truly important it must
appear to every thinking man. For if our liberties are to
be maintained, they must be maintained, under God, greatly

325

COLLEGES, ETC.

through the influence of an honest, independent, and intelligent press. No man has it in his power to do more for
his country than a capable and virtuous editor of a newspaper.
CHAPTER XXVI.
RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS AND SECTS.
HAVING completed the survey of the Colleges, &c. of
the West, I shall now give a sketch of the Religious Denominations in that great section of our country, and the
number of ministers, churches, members, &c. of each, as
far as the means which I possess will enable me to do it.
I am aware that no statements of this kind are likely to be
entirely accurate, for it is impossible to obtain the requisite
materials. Any defect which may be perceived by any
one, in what I am about to state, will be attributed, I trust,
to a want of full information on my part. And if what I
am about to write, should only lead to a more perfect
statement derived from those who are more competent to
give it, I shall not labour in vain.
1. Baptists. The following statement is made from the
Baptist Annual Register for 1833. It is probable that it
is not exactly correct, and yet I trust there is no material
error.
Churches.

Western Penn.
Western Va.
Ohio
Michigan
Kentucky
Indiana
Illinois
Missouri
Tennessee
Arkansas
Mississippi
Louisiana
Alabama
Total

Ministers. Communi

51
50
280
16
484
299
154
146
413
17
84
16
250

23
26
142
10
236
152
107
86
219
7
34
12
109

2,383
1,776
10,493
703
33,724
11,334
4,492
4,972
20,472
181
3,L99
278
11,408

2,260
28

1,163

132,915

328

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

It would no doubt be safe to estimate the number of
Baptist churches in the West at 2,300 ; ministers at 1,200 ;
and members at 140,000, including the Campbellites and
all others that are called by the name of Baptists.
2. Methodists. According to the Minutes of the several
Annual Conferences of the Methodist Episcopal Church
for the year 1832, there were in the Valley of the Mississippi,
Conferences.

Pittsburg
Ohio
Missouri
Illinois
Kentucky
Tennessee
Hols ton
Mississippi

Members. Travelling' Ministers,

26,061
44,879
5,205
27,553
26,107
26,911
21,576
19,432

107
135
44
95
93
122
52
80

Total
197,724
728
Probably there are now nearly 220,000 members belonging to that denomination, and 750 travelling ministers,
The number of stationed ministers I have no means at
hand of ascertaining.
Reformed Methodists. This is becoming a numerous
body of Christians in some portions of the West. They
have large churches in Pittsburg and Cincinnati, and
publish a respectable religious journal at the former place.
I do not know their numbers. It is but a few years since
they were organized into a distinct denomination.
3. Presbyterians. There are 11 Synods, 43 Presbyteries, about 950 ministers, 1000 congregations, and 75,000
communicants, or members.
4. Cumberland Presbyterians. This denomination began to exist in 1810. They are found principally in Tennessee and Kentucky. They originated from the secessions of several ministers in Tennessee and Kentucky
from the regular Presbyterian church, on account of some
difference of views on the subject of the necessity of literary
attainments in the ministry, and also on account of some
doctrinal differences. They have now a General Assembly,
4 Synods, about 20 Presbyteries, 200 ministers, and are
rapidly increasing. They have a flourishing college at

RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS AND SECTS.

327

Princeton, Ky. I do not know the precise number of the
members of this denomination, but believe it to be about
50,000. It is said to be increasing, and is spreading in
Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Missouri, Illinois, and
other states.
5. Protestant Episcopal Church. This church has four
dioceses in the Valley of the Mississippi, exclusive of Western Pennsylvania and Virginia, which belong to the dioceses of those states. 1st, Diocese of Ohio, Rev. Chas. P..
Mcllvaine, D. D. bishop, about 20 inferior clergy, and
nearly twice as many churches. 2d, Diocese of Kentucky,
Rev. B. B. Smith, D. D. bishop, 10 or 12 ministers, and
about 20 churches. 3d, Diocese of Tennessee, four or
five ministers, and twice as many churches. 4th, Diocese
of Mississippi, four or five ministers. There are two
Episcopal ministers in Louisiana, two in Michigan territory,
one in Arkansas, two in Missouri, two in Florida, and five
or six in West Pennsylvania, and as many in West Virginia ; in all between sixty and seventy ministers, and
many vacant churches in the West. The prospects of
this church in the Valley of the Mississippi are evidently
encouraging. The Literary and Theological Institution
at Gambier, Ohio, is destined to exert a most happy influence upon the interests of that church, and wTill, I trust,
supply her altars with a learned and devoted ministry.
6. Lutheran Church.—-There are probably from thirty
to forty ministers of the Gospel of this denomination in the
West, a part of whom belong to the synod of West Pennsylvania, and apart to the synod of Ohio.
7< German Reformed Church.—-There are probably
about as many ministers of this church as of the Lutheran
in the Valley of the Mississippi. They have each near
one hundred churches. Most of their ministers in the West
preach to five or six congregations.
8. Emancipators.—This is a sect of the Baptists which
originated in 1805. They are opposed to negro slavery,
both in principle and practice. They and all other sects
of Baptists are included in the enumeration of the Baptists
which has been given.
9. Tunkers.—This sect has existed in this country
since 1719. They have probably forty or fifty churches,
principally in Pennsylvania and the western states.

328

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

10. Shakers.—This sect has churches in several places
in Kentucky and Ohio. Union village and Watervleit in
the latter, and Pleasant Hill and South Union in the former, are the principal. I do not know their number.
11. Christians or New Lights.—This sect arose about
twenty-five years ago, in Kentucky. Stone, Dunlavy, and
others, were the founders. Kincaid is now one of their
leading ministers and authors. They are generally, but
not universally, Unitarians in their theology. Their number is considerable, and increasing in Kentucky and Ohio.
They are to be found also in Indiana and other states.
12. Covenanters.—-There are several churches of this
denomination in the West, and perhaps twenty or thirty
ministers.
13. Associate Church, or Seceders, as they are commonly called. Their number is greater than that of the
Covenanters. They have a theological school at Canonsburg, under the instruction of the Rev. Dr. Ramsay, Professor of Hebrew in Jefferson college.
14. Associate Reformed Church.—A few years since,
the General Synod of this denomination voted to unite
with the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church.
The whole of the western synod as well as other parts of
that church, in New-York, Pennsylvania, and other sections
of the country, did not accede to the union. The western
synod embraces a considerable number of churches, and
had, a short time since, a theological school, under the
instruction of the late Rev. Dr. Riddle, of West Pennsylvania, which has been transferred to Pittsburg, and the
Rev. Mr. Pressley has been appointed professor of Theology. I do not know the precise number of their ministers in the Valley, but believe that it is larger than that of
the Associate Church.
15. Roman Catholics. The number of Papal dioceses
in this region is six. 1. Mobile, comprehending Alabama
and West Florida. 2. New Orleans, including Mississippi
and Louisiana.
3. St. Louis, comprehending Missouri
and Arkansas. 4. Bardstown, including Kentucky, Tennessee, and Illinois. 5. Cincinnati, including Ohio. 6. Detroit, embracing the territory of Michigan.
1. Mobile.—A splendid cathedral is about to be erected
in this place. Bishop Portier has recently established a

HELIGI0TJS DENOMINATIONS AND SECTS.

329

college here, which has now about 120 students. Several priests from Europe have lately joined him. 2. New
Orleans.—The mass of the population in Louisiana is Catholic. There are about twenty ecclesiastical parishes, most
of which are provided with priests. There is a Catholic
college at New Orleans, said to be flourishing. Numerous
convents and seminaries are established in various parts of
the state. 3. St. Louis.—About one-third of the inhabitants of this city are Catholics. There is a Catholic college, under the control of the Jesuits here, with 160 students. The superintendent of all the Jesuits in the Valley
of the Mississippi, resides at St. Louis. The Catholics have
a school, either male or female, and in some cases both, at
St. Charles, St. Genevieve, Florissant, St. Louis, Peryville,
&c. In the dioceses of New Orleans, and St. Louis, they
have 100 priests, two colleges, two theological seminaries,
ten convents, and 600 pupils in their seminaries. 4. Bardstown.—There are said to be 20 priests and 30 congregations in Kentucky. In the other states in this diocese there
are few organized Catholic Congregations. 5. Cincinnati,
—A large Cathedral has been built in this city, and at least
12 churches have been built in this diocese, and many more
are in prospect. A literary institution has been commenced
in Cincinnati, under the auspices and control of the Bishop,
called the Athenceum. The late Bishop Fenwick commenced
his labours a few years since at Cincinnati, with five members, and four years ago, he had 300 members in his church.
The Catholics state, that their number is rapidly increasing, not only in that city, but throughout the state of Ohio,
both by the arrival of foreigners and by actual conversions.
6. Detroit.—In this diocese there are six Catholic churches.
The Catholics reckon that they have 7,000 members in
Michigan territory, including fur traders. They have a
Chapel at Mackinaw, and 300 members in the Ottawa tribe
of Indians, 45 miles from Mackinaw.
16. In the Valley of the Mississippi there are about 34,
000 members of the Society of Friends, chiefly settled in
the states of Ohio and Indiana. They hold two yearly
meetings, one at Mount Pleasant, Ohio, and one at Richmond in Indiana, comprising a large number of Quarterly,
Monthly and other meetings. Some of this denomination
have recently settled in Michigan territory.
28*

330

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

In this general survey of the religious denominations in
the West, I do not reckon several small bodies, such as the'
Seventh Day Baptist, &c. nor several minor sects oferrorists, such as the Pilgrims, (now nearly extinct,) the famous
Mormonites, &c. The Valley of the Mississippi, like all
new countries, is a wide and fertile field for the propagation of error of every sort. Ignorance and credulity are
every where fit materials for the plastic hands of impostors
and heresiarchs of every description.
The whole population of the Valley of the Mississippi,
may be estimated, at 4,200,000. A general distribution
may be made, with tolerable accuracy, of the people, according to profession or preference, in the following manner :
enomination.
Population*
Methodist,
800,000
Baptist,
700,000
Presbyterian, 550 5 000
Papal
500,000
Protestant Episcopal,
50,000
Cumberland Presbyterians,
100,000
Friends,
.
.
.
.
34,000
Several smaller sects,
100,000
Total,

2,834,000

Leaving about 1,366,000 who are not attached to any sect
The various Religious Benevolent Societies of our country, are doing much in the Valley of the Mississippi. The
American Home Missionary Society, and the Board of Missions of the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church
have sent near 500 Ministers of the Gospel, within a few
years, to destitute congregations of that denomination in
the Valley of the Mississippi. A Baptist Home Missionary has been formed recently, with special reference to this
portion of our country. Other denominations are doing
much to establish and sustain churches, wherever the people prefer their doctrines and modes of worship. The
American Tract Society, and the American Bible Socieiy,
have circulated vast numbers of Tracts and Bibles in the
West. Whilst the American Sunday School Union is labouring to establish a Sunday School and library in every

RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS AND SECTS.

331

neighbourhood, leaving it to the people to conduct them as
they choose. They have established more than 4000 schools
within the last three years. And the Colonization Society
is extending its influence also into the West, and has formed many auxiliaries.
These facts are mentioned here to show that much is
doing to promote religion, and religious institutions, in the
West.

332

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

CHAPTER XXVII.
THE STEAM-BOATS OF THE WEST.
THIS chapter will be occupied with an account of the
Steam-boats, and Steam-boat scenes, of the Valley of the
Mississippi:—
The first steam-boat built in the Valley of the Missippi,
was the New Orleans, which was launched at Pittsburg in
the year 1811. Consequently, twenty-two years have
elapsed since the greatest improvement in river navigation
which the world has ever seen, was introduced into this
western region. Few steam-boats however were built before the year 1817. Since that period the number has
annually and rapidly increased, until it has become astonishingly great. From documents in my possession, and
which I believe are very accurate, I learn that, at the
commencement of the year 1831, the number of three
hundred and forty-eight had been running on these waters,
and all, excepting a very few which were brought round
from the East, were built in the West. During 1832,
about eighty steamboats were built, and nearly an equal
number have been built, or are building, this year.
So
that there have been not less, probably, than ,500 steamboats built in the West, about one half of which are now
in existence.
It is a fact, that the steam-boats in the West are far
less durable than those in the East. One reason of this
may be, that the wood of which they are made seems to
be of a more rapid growth, and consequently of a less
solid and firm fibre. Another reason is, that they are
hastily put together, and of materials little seasoned. And
perhaps a greater is, that they suffer much harder usage,
from the powerful application of steam, and more than all,
from being so often run against rocks, sand-bars and logs.
Whatever may be the causes, they seldom are worth

STEAM-BOATS.

333

much after running five or six years. Some have run
seven or eight; but this number is small. A few which
were built of live oak have lasted nearly ten years.
It has been asserted that the cost of a steam-boat in the
West is about §100 per ton.
This estimate as a general
one, is, I am persuaded, too high. The relative cost of
steam-boats in the West, as every where else, is inversely
proportional to their size. A steam-boat of fifty tons
costs more, proportionally, than one of a hundred tons,
or five hundred tons. At present a boat of from seventyfive to one hundred tons may be completely finished and
prepared, in every respect, for running, for about eighty
dollars per ton ; or at the highest, when most expensively
finished, for one hundred dollars per ton; whilst a plain
boat of five hundred tons can be built for perhaps sixty
dollars per ton. For instance, the Uncle Sam, of five
hundred tons, cost about $29,500 ; and the Henry Clay^
a splendid boat of five hundred tons, cost near $43,000.
Some idea of the large amount of capital invested in
steam-boats in the West, may be obtained, from the above
statement. The eighty steam-boats which were built last
year, some of them being of the largest class, cost on an
average from $12,000 to $15,000 each, in all from $960,
000, to $1,200,000.
It has been said, that steam-boats in the West usually
clear their prime cost during the first year's running, and
after that, the proceeds—deducting of course the repairs
and other expenses—are a nett profit to the owners. I
am confident that this is not true as a general fact. Whilst
some boats which run very well, and are managed by capable and careful officers and hands, and supported by the
indefatigable efforts of enterprising owners, and numerous
agents in the various ports from Pittsburg to New Orleans,
do quite, aud sometimes more than, pay their original cost
during the first year, and afterwards for three or four
years are a source of great profit to their owners, many
do not clear their first cost in two or three years, and
some never. It is considered well if they do so in two or
three years. Even then, they prove in the end, very valuable stock.
Steam-boats of the largest class in the West are estimated at five hundred tons, or rather at four hundred and

334

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

fifty and upwards. To this class belong the Uncle Sam,
Mohawk, Baltic, Henry Clay, Mediterranean, Philadelphia,
Belfast, &c. The medium size embraces those of three
hundred tons. To this class belongs the Hibernia. Those
which are calculated for low water and have a draught of
from twenty inches to four feet of water, according to the
amount of freight which they carry, are boats of one hundred tons or rather less. To this class belong such boats
as the Peruvian, Versailles, Banner, Waverly, Friend,
Don Juan, Magnolia, Sylph, Lady Byron, Citizen, Cleopatra. There is a large number of this size. And there
are some smaller, and calculated to run in very shallow
water and in small rivers,—such, for instance, are the Odd
Fellow, Scout, Traveller, and Hatchie. There are some
boats of one hundred and fifty, and two hundred tons ; such
are the Argus, Abeona, Napoleon, &c.
During the months of July, August, September, and
sometimes October, a large number of the boats, especially
those of the larger classes, do not run, on account of the
low water. But from October to July, all are in motion.
If in any portion of that period they are excluded from the
rivers in the northern part of the Valley, by reason of the
ice, they go down into the " lower trade," on the lower
Mississippi, and the Cumberland, Tennessee, Arkansas
and Red Rivers, where the navigation is never impeded
by ice. The summer of 1832, was a remarkable one for
the keeping up of the rivers in the West, especially the
Ohio. On this account an unusually large number of
steam-boats were running. Yet more than a hundred were
laid up, and received such repairs as were necessary for
the corning business of the fall and winter. I saw four or
five lying at Nashville, 15 or 20 at St. Louis, three or
four at Trinity, 30 or 40 at New-Albany and Shippingport,
a number at Cincinnati, and several at various other places
on the Ohio above that city.
Much has been said respecting the comparative elegance
of the eastern and western steam-boats.
tNon

nostrum tantas componere lites.

The most careless observer, however, cannot but notice
a great difference between them in a variety of respects.

STEAM-BOATS.

335

The eastern boats have not generally any cabins above
deck, but always in the hold, if I may so speak. But in
the western boats this arrangement is scarcely ever seen.
Their holds, or that part which in an eastern boat is occupied by the fore and aft cabins, and the machinery, is the
place for stowing away the heavy freight, &c. The boilers
are placed not in the centre, but on the bow of the boat,
and from them to the stern runs a deck or story, including,
or rather enclosing the machinery, which reaches somewhat beyond the middle of the boat, and having in some
cases a gentlemen's cabin, (and sometimes a ladies' also)
in the stern. Above this deck is another, which extends
from the stern to the fore part of the boat, and runs wholly
over the boilers. In many boats that part of this deck
which is in the stern of the boat, is occupied as a ladies'
cabin, whilst all the rest is for what are called declc passengers; in others, the whole of it is occupied by deck
passengers; and in others, both the gentlemen's and ladies' cabin are in this part of the boat, and what are
usually called deck-passengers occupy the deck below,
astern of the machinery. Such boats are always advertised as having " upper cabins." The part of this deck
immediately over the boilers, and through which the pipes
that conduct the smoke from the firen below pass, is called
the boiler deck. There are a few boats which have even
a third deck or story. From this description, the reader
will readily conceive that the western boats having deck
upon deck, on their midships and stern, must have a very
different appearance from those on the eastern waters.
And although in their bows or forward part they have an
unfinished appearance, and have a less ship-like aspect
than the eastern boats, yet they move very gracefully
through the water, and seem to one viewing them, like
floating castles. As they stand so much out of the water,
they resemble at a distance the dismantled seventy fours
at the Navy-Yard at Brooklyn, only they are much smaller. Scarcely any sight can be more beautiful than that
of the approach, or departure from port, of such a boat as
the Abeona, or Caledonia, when viewed from a distant and
elevated point.
In regard to the elegance of interior, I think many of
the western boats can well compare with the eastern. Al-

336

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

though they have not mahogany, yet they have the curled
maple and other beautiful woods of this region, which are
scarcely inferior. I doubt much whether there is a boat
on the eastern waters which has a cabin surpassing in
beauty that of the Henry Clay, or George Washington.
And the style of living on board the western boats generally far surpasses that of the eastern. I have travelled
extensively in the United States, and I have never seen
such tables set forth in any other steam-boats. Every
necessary article, and every luxury too of diet, which the
West affords, is to be found on the tables of the best steamboats in the Valley of the Mississippi.
The common opinion among mechanics, engineers and
captains in the West is, that engines constructed on the
high pressure principle, are preferable for boats in
this region, to those upon the low pressure principle.
There are some boats indeed upon the low pressure
principle, such as the Ben Franklin, Amulet, Robert
Fulton, Philadelphia, Waverly, Magnolia, Farmer, &c.
The owners and all interested in the low pressure boats,
are probably advocates for low pressure engines. But, as
I have already remarked, the general opinion is, that the
low pressure boats are not adapted to these western rivers,
with their long courses and rapid and powerful currents.
Several reasons may be assigned for this preference:
1. High pressure engines are much less heavy. 2, They
are much more simple in their construction, as every one
knows who knows any thing about steam-engines. A consequence of their simplicity is, that they are much more
easily understood, kept in order, and repaired when out
of order. Both of these considerations are important in
boats that make long voyages. And 3. They can work
off all the steam which they generate, if the valves connected with their cylinders are large enough ,• so that
there is no limit to their power, except the strength of the
boilers and cylinders. But in the low pressure boats no
more steam can be used than can be worked off by a condenser, so that there is a limit, (and usually the limit is
far below what the machinery will bear,) to the application
of the steam which they can generate. The consequence
is, that where great power is sometimes needed, in diffi-

STEAM-BOATS.

337

cult rapids, the engine cannot give it, because the steam
must not be generated faster than the condenser can work
it off, otherwise an explosion would speedily occur. On the
other hand, the high pressure engines have no limits as to
the power which they can afford, save the strength of the
boilers and cylinders. And if a sufficient amount of water
is kept in the boilers, and the boat is fully under way,
there is but little danger resulting from raising steam very
high. For in that case, however rapidly the steam is
generated, (if it be not converted into gas, which is not
likely to be done if a sufficient amount of water is in the
boilers,) it is carried off instantaneously by the action of
the piston in the cylinder.
Much has been said respecting the many and fatal accidents which have occurred on steam-boats in the West.
It must indeed be admitted that many, too many, such accidents have occurred. Many boats have been destroyed
by snags, others by fire; some have been run down by
other boats, and some have been injured, and many lives
lost, by the bursting of boilers.* I believe that many, if
not most, of these accidents have occurred through very
culpable carelessness, especially those of the last mentioned
class, the bursting of the boilers. That accidents should
happen to boats running on these rivers, possessing currents of great rapidity, constantly changing more or less
their channels, and rendered dangerous in low water, by
innumerable sand-bars, rocks and snags, is surely not a
subject of marvel. And when we remember the great
number of boats running (now upwards of two hundred
and forty,) and the length of their Voyages, ofttimes-—our
wonder will be still less. It is comparatively nothing for
a steam-boat to run from New York to Albany, New Ha* From a memorandum in my possession, and which was obtained
from a good source, I find that out of the one hundred and eighty-two
steam-boats, which were not in existence in July, 1831, sixty-six were
worn out; thirty-seven were snagged; sixteen were burnt; three were
run down by other boats; four or Jive were stove by ice or sand-bars,
rodcs, Sfc.; and thirty destroyed by causes not exactly known. Some of
the most calamitous accidents have been occasioned by snags, rocks,
and^fesi
Baring the »last year, an unusually large number of boats have been
destroyed, and many of them by fire.

29

33S

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

ven, Providence, or New Brunswick ; or from Philadelto Trenton ; or from Baltimore to Norfolk; where there
are no natural obstructions to navigation, and where the
voyage can be accomplished in a few hours. But the
case is far different, when a boat sets out from New Orleans for St. Louis, or Cincinnati, or Pittsburg; distances
of many hundreds of miles ; where snags, rocks, and sandbars, are to be guarded against every hour, especially
when the water is low ; and where the boilers are scarcely
allowed to become cold during the whole voyage !
Most of the accidents, which have resulted from the
bursting of boilers, have taken place, when the boat was
leaving port. Two general reasons may be assigned for
this fact; 1. The very improper practice of accumulating
steam, while the boat is stopping to land, or receive freight,
or passengers, so as to start with an immense pressure of
steam. This practice arises from a desire to make the
voyage in a very short period, or to excel some other boat
which is just before or behind. 2. The other cause is the
heeling over, as it is called in the West, of the boat, that is,
its inclining to one side, occasioned by the turning of the
boat as it leaves port. By this turning up of one side of
the boat, the water in the uppermost boiler is greatly diminished, and the steam that is in it, is very likely then to
be converted into the two gases of which water is composed, and one of which is very expansive. To understand
my meaning, the reader must keep in mind the fact, that
almost all the steam-boats in the West have from two to
nine boilers, all lying side by side, in the same bed or furnace, and connected with each other by intervening pipes.
Now if we suppose that a boat has five, or seven, or more
boilers, we shall readily see that it will require no great
inclination of the boat, to diminish very greatly the water
in the boiler which may be on the elevated side. An explosion of that boiler is to be considered a very probable
event, especially if the water in all the boilers was low at
the time of starting.
It has also been noticed that boilers have most frequently
burst just after there have been a few strokes of the piston
in starting. This probably results from the fact, that as
soon as the steam is diminished in the boilers, by the action of the piston in the cylinder, the water rises in the

STEAM-BOATS,

339

boilers, and—supposing that, at this moment, the boat has
keeled considerably, and the fires are burning intensely,
and the water is very low,—as the water rises (upon the
diminution of the pressure of the steam) it comes in contract with the sides of the boiler, which may possibly be
nearly red hot; instantaneously a greater quantity of steam
is generated than can be worked off by the action of, the
piston, which is yet too slow to carry off much steam.
Or the water is decomposed, and the hydrogen gas immediately causes an explosion.
The captains of the western steam boats, are in general
well qualified for their stations. There are indeed exceptions ; there are those who are uncivil, profane in their
language, and disagreeable. And such there are among
the captains of the eastern steam-boats. But I have travelled in many of the steam-boats in the Valley of the
Mississippi, and I have almost uniformly found their commanders urbane, attentive, patient, vigilant, and disposed
to do every thing that could be done to render the voyage,
—-often long and tedious, and demanding uncommon patience in the master of the vessel,—pleasant to the passengers.
The pilots on these boats, are generally rhen who are
well acquainted with the rivers. Many of them have
spent years on board flat and keel boats, and during perhaps some forty or fifty voyages up and down, have acquired a very minute acquaintance with the difficult places in
the rivers. But such are the unceasing changes which
are made in the channels, particularly in the Mississippi
river, that no human foresight or experience can guard
ag.iinst all accidents, resulting from sand-bars, rocks, and
snags. The post of a pilot is by far the most difficult on
board a western steam-boat. And the skill of many of
those whom I have seen is truly astonishing.
The engineers are generally attentive to their duties.
But few of them know much about the science of sieam
engines. They usually go a few voyages with an old engineer before they set up for themselves. Their knowledge is very limited, and wholly practical. There are,
'However, some noble exceptions. If a competent man
were an engineer on board the Uncle Sam, Henry Clay,
W some other boat, and would undertake to teach a

340

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

school, for the purpose of preparing engineers, I mean by
instructing several at a time during a few voyages, he
would render a gxeat service to the Valley of the Mississippi, It is however an encouraging fact, that many men
who were trained up in the shops for making steam engines and their machinery, at Pittsburg and Cincinnati,
are becoming engineers on board the steam-boats. Better
engineers could not. be found, inasmuch as they are familiar with the entire structure and principles of steam-engines. So that the prospect is that there will be fewer
accidents from bursting of boilers, although I am persuaded that the danger of such accidents is now greatly exaggerated in the imagination of the community.
The introduction of steam boats into the Valley of the
Mississippi, has effected a complete revolution in the internal navigation of that region. Merchandize of all kinds is
now carried between the extremest points for a very small
amount. It is said that goods can be shipped from New
York to New, Orleans, and then carried by steam boat to
Cincinnati, for 1 cent per pound! A single fact will convince any one of the advantage of steam-boats in a commercial point of view. In the summer of 1830, when the
Ohio was too low, for months, for steam-boats to run, it was
necessary to carry the merchandize descending that river
from Pittsburg, to Cincinnati and Louisville, in flat and
keel boats. A captain of a steam-boat, engaged in that
trade, has told me that he at that time purchased three keel
boats at six hundred dollars, loaded them with 50 or 60
tons, and when he arrived, at Louisville sold the boats for
three hundred dollars, and yet after defraying all the other
expenses of the trip, including high wages for five or six
hands on each boat, made a handsome sum of money. Then
freight was a dollar or two per hundred. But when the
steam boats commenced running,, it was carried for 20 or
30 cents per hundred for precisely the same distance.
By a recent law of the General Government, all steamboats in the West, as well as elsewhere, are required to be
enrolled and licensed by the Collectors of the Customs.; they
must have their names painted on them, and the names of
the places where they are owned, and pay twenty cents a
month out of the wages of every hand, excepting apprenticed and slaves, for the Hospital Fund* Steam boats are

STEAM BOATS.

341

registered at Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, St. Louis and
New Orleans.
The facilities for travelling which steam boats furnish in
the West, are inconceivable to our Atlantic people, or any
one who did not travel here in the " olden time." Then it
was a journey, on horseback, of several months, to go up
from New Orleans to Pittsburg; noto it can be done with
ease in three weeks, in almost any steam boat, and allow
much time for stopping at the intermediate places. When
steam boats first began to run, $125 and even $150 were
cheerfully paid for a passage from New Orleans to Louisville ! And when the charges were so diminished as to be
only $100, from New Orleans to Pittsburg, which is 650
miles further, and in all more than 2000 miles, it was
thought truly astonishing. But now one can go from New
Orleans to Pittsburg as a cabin passenger, for from $35 to
$45, and fare sumptuously every day! And if he chooses
to go as a deck passenger he can do it for perhaps $10 or
$12 ! Consequently astonishing facilities are afforded to families removing to distant parts of the entire Valley. The
passengers are denominated either "cabin" or " deck" passengers from the different parts of the boat which they occupy. Those in the cabin pay a much higher price, and
have every thing furnished. The deck passengers occupy
either the upper deck, or the one immediately astern of the
machinery, as I have already mentioned, and find their
own provisions. Their part of the boat is not generally
finished with much particularity, and is indeed rather an uncomfortable place in cold weather.
Although the steam boats of the West are generally designed for carrying freight as well as passengers, yet it is
astonishing what a number of persons one of them can carry.
Even a boat of 100 tons often carries 50 cabin passengers;
as many more, or perhaps twice as many, on deck ; and
withal 75 or 80 tons of freight! And a boat of 500 tons,
such as the Uncle Sam, or the Red Rover, or Belfast, has
often carried 100 passengers in the cabin, 500 on deck, and
400 tons of freight, and withal marched up the mighty
Mississippi at the rate of six or eight miles an hour! Immense numbers of passengers are carried from one part of
the Valley to another by these boats. Those boats which
come* up from New Orleans bring, besides merchants and
29*

342

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

other inhabitants or strangers, who occupy the cabin, hundreds of Germans, Irish, and other foreign emigrants who
land at that port, and are seeking a home in the interior of
the Valley of the Mississippi, On the other hand those
which descend from Pittsburg carry hundreds of travellers
and emigrants from the East, as well as from foreign
lands.
One of these large boats, filled with passengers, is almost
a world in miniature. In the cabin you will find ladies
and gentlemen of various claims to merit; on the forward
part of the boat are the sailors, deck hands, and those sons
of Vulcan—the firemen-—possessing striking traits of
character, and full of noise, and song, and too often of
whiskey ; whilst above, in the deck cabin, there is every
thing that may be called human?—-all sorts of men and
women, of all traces, from all parts of the world, of all
possible manners and habits. There is the half-horse and
half-alligator Kentucky boatman, swaggering, and boasting of his prowess, his rifle, his horse, and his wife. One
is sawing away on his wretched old fiddle all day long ;
another is grinding a knife or razor; here is a party
playing cards ; and in yonder corner is a dance to the sound
of the Jew's harp; whilst a few are trying to demean
themselves soberly, by sitting in silence or reading a book.
But it \s ajmost impossible-^the wondrous tale and horrible Iricfian story are- tellirig; the bottle and the jug are
freely circulating ; and the boisterous and deafening laugh
is incessantly raised, sufficient to banish every vestige of
seriousness, and thought, and sense. A friend of mine,
some time ago, went down from Cincinnati to New Orleans
on board the steam-boat -^—% which carried fifty cabin
passengers, one or two hundred deck passengers; one
negro-driver with his gang of negroes; a part of a company of soldiers; a menagerie of wild beasts; a whole*
circus; and a company of play actors \
When a traveller from the East enters a crowded steamboat at Pittsburg or Cincinnati, and takes his passage for
New Orleans, he very soon perceives a manifest contrast
between western and eastern scanners* and western and eastern steamboats. He soon discovers that the western people have much more equality in their intercourse; are
remarkably sociable, unceremp^ious, and independent*

STEAM-BOATS.

343

He will be very likely to consider them too forward and
indifferent to the opinions of others. But he will find upon
better acquaintance with them, that their apparent rudeness and incivility of manners soon disappear, and that they
are truly courteous, respectful, and kind to those who display similar traits of character. They are candid and
independent, and but little disposed to yield arrogated deference to any persons, no matter how high a standing in
society, birth or wealth may have given them.
I am truly sorry to say that the serious traveller will
very often be grieved with the prqfaneness which is so
common on board ^western-steam-boats. And the practice
is not confined to the officers and hands, but exists, to a
most disagreeable extent, among otherwise respectable
passengers. It is a lamentable fact that this vice is extremely common throughout the Valley of the Mississippi,
and more especially in the southern part of it. So much
so, that many gentlemen, and clever men in other respects,
are in the habit of using profane language, when they are
scarcely aware of it, and consequently restrain themselves
but little in any sort of company.
Another practice too prevalent on board the western
steam-boats is that of playing at cards. It is true that it
is generally for amusement; for the well regulated boats
profess not to tolerate gambling. But to say the least, it
is greatly to be regretted that a better mode of spending
time is not pursued. I know indeed that it is difficult for
persons wlio are not in the habit of reading much at any
time, to do so on board a crowded steam-boat. But I am
far from saying this with a view of palliating an amusement
of the most dangerous and seductive character. Its great
prevalence shows not only a want of taste for more useful
modes of spending time, but also a want of a correct
knowledge of moral principles, on the part of those who
are addicted to it. And although gambling is not pro~
fessedly tolerated, yet it is a fact that it exists on many
steam-boats in the West, and that too not only among ordinary passengers, merchants and other men of business, and
travellers, but also among gangs ^professional gamblers^
who infest the principal towns and cities from Pittsburg to
New-Orleans* and who are constantly traversing these
rivers to make a prey of the young and the unwary. It is

344

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

due to truth, to say, and 1 do it with real pleasure, that no
captains of well regulated steam-boats in the Valley of the
Mississippi will for a moment allow such men to play with
their passengers, or indeed to play at all. And yet I much
fear that there are few captains in the West who would,
as one of the eastern captains recently did, put a company
of gamblers on shore, who refused to desist from playing !
Yet there are some who would do it; indeed it has been
done already, if I have been correctly informed.
The hardening and chilling effects of gambling upon the
heart, may be learned from one or two anecdotes which I
select from hundreds, and which I received from unquestionable sources.
During one of the cold and cloudy days of 1831, December, the steam-boat M
stopped for freight at a port in
Kentucky, on her way down the river. Whilst there, a Mr.
— came on board,bringing with him his young, interesting,
and beautiful, but dying wife, seeking a southern climate
for her declining health. It was with some difficulty that
she v^as brought on board, she was so feeble. The ladies,
in the cabin* though strangers, received her with deep
sympathy^ and with her maid servant, ministered unremittingly to her wants. Her husband came but seldom to
her cabin; would sit a few minutes by her couch, and
then hurry away from her longing and tearful eyes. And
where was he spending his time 1 Where was he who had
sworn before God and man to " honour, love and protect
her, until death should them part?" He was in the gentlemen's cabin gambling, day and night! The boat continued her voyage, and in two or three days arrived at
, the place of her destination, where the poor lady
soon afterwards died at a boarding house. _ The husband,
if husband he could be called, stayed a day or two to see
her buried, and then embarked for New-Orleans, gambling
day and night, all the way!
Take another instance, which was told to me by the captain of the boat on which the case occurred* A few years
since, the large steam-boat M—^set out from New-Orleans
on an upward voyage, having on board much freight and
many passengers. Among them were several'merchants
who had large amounts in sugar, molasses, coffee, &c. Soon
after the boat started they commenced gambling, and con-

STEAMBOATS.

345

tinued without intermission until after 10 o'clock at night.
The captain then informed them, that it was contrary to the
rules of the boat that they should play in the cabin after that
hour. They demurred protested, and entreated. But he
was inflexible. At length he consented to their going to.a
small, private room ; but enjoined it upon them that there
must be no fighting. Faur of them renewed the game with
excited interest. The captain having occasion to be up all
night, went*, about three o'clock, into their room. To his
surprise he found them just on the point of fighting. Pistols
and dirks were drawn! At his interposition and command,
these weapons were put up. The cause of the quarrel was
this : One merchant had lost all the money which he had
with him, and all his large and valuable cargo on board.
The loser desired his merchandize to be estimated at the
retail price at
, where he resided, and to which place
the boat was bound. But the marble-hearted winner insisted upon the New Orleans price as the basis of the calculation, and which would have left the loser in his debt to
a large amount, for which he demanded a due-bill! At the
remonstrance of the captain, he ceased to insist upon this,
and the bill of lading having been transferred in due form
to the winner, the miserable loser went home without a
dollar to pay even his passage, to tell (if he could do it) to
his wife and children the story of his folly, and to become
a bankrupt ! Alas ! how many men in this western country, and on these rivers, have not only lost their fortunes,
but, it is to be feared, their souls also, by gambling.*
Another species.of wickedness has existed on board some
western steam boats—not countenanced nor willingly tolerated by any respectable captains ; but which results from
allowing persons of improper character to be on board.
* Jdeemitrighttosay that many eastern and northern men, when
travelling in the Valley of the Mississippi, or on visits to New Orleans
and other cities in the Valley, Who are of good character at home, do engage in gambling, to the grief of good men in this region. Even some
from whom such things would least have been'expected, have done so I
A gentleman in New Orleans mentioned tp me more than one such instance of men who reside in a city not a hundred niiles from New York,
who when on a visit to New Orleans not very long since, became much
addicted to card-playing. Our southern Christians have difficulties
enough to encounter without such mill-stone discouragements,

346

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Scenes of shocking depravity have occurred on some boats
from this cause. But I cannot believe that many such boats
are now running; and I am sure that the good sense and
virtue of the western peopie will frown the masters of such
boats out of the pale of respectable society. Propriety forbids any thing more than a mere allusion to a subject so
disgusting to every virtuous mind, and I turn at once from
the odious topic, to a more pleasing theme.
To a good man, there is no want of an opportunity of
doing good on board a western steam-boat, whilst he is
pursuing a journey, which duty calls him to make in that
region, if he possesses a good portion of that humility,
patience, love to God, and sympathy for dying men, which
his Master possessed. He will, if he is properly acquainted with human nature, endeavour to conciliate the esteem
and confidence of his fellow-passengers, by exhibiting a
polite and Christian deportment. And if he wisely avails
himself of every opportunity, and seeks such opportunities,
he may converse with almost every individual on board,
on the momentous concerns of a better world. He will
probably have to bear many things, especially at first, of
an unpleasant nature. In some circumstances, he will
find it prudent to endure in silence the profaneness and
other evil practices of the company, rather than reprove
openly. But if he perseveres with a heart bent upon doing good, (and every Christian ought to make this a primary object in all his journies, whether on business, or
pleasure in other respects), his hallowed influence will
pervade the boat, and produce a lasting impression. If he
isa minister of the Gospel, he will not find it wise to force
religious services upon the passengers ; but he can, by a
polite request, generally secure for such services, at a proper season, attention and approbation. 1 have known
ministers who, by abruptly attempting the performance of
religious services, without consulting the rest of the passengers, lost all their influence during the remainder of
the voyage. But if a minister, instead of this, is kind,
courteous, communicative, and anxious to avail himself of
every opportunity of doing good by conversation, he will
soon be much respected, and perhaps invited to preach the
Gospel to the passengers. He will need great patience
and meekness, and a disposition to weep over the follies

STEAM-BOATS.

347

and wickedness of men, and pray for them, and to consider
every profane expression, and other instances of wickedness, as an offence against his Heavenly t Father, and not
an insult towards himself. Truth alone, urged with persuasion and love, can avail for western steam-boats. They
afford a fine field for doing good, to men of hearts warm
and tender with the love of the Saviour, and who are well
acquainted with the springs which influence human nature.'
The western people are the last people on earth to be
forced into religion, and many of them have but little
reverence for the mere office of the ministry. One of them
told me, not long since, that he had " a great respect for
religion, but none at all for its professors"—that is, the
fact that they were professors of religion, did not of itself,
constitute, in bis opinion, any valid claim to his regard.
There is so much both to interest and amuse an intelligent traveller, that I know not how a voyage frow NewOrleans to Pittsburg, or between any other extreme points
in the Valley of the Mississippi, can appear long or very
unpleasant. If he has a taste for reading, and is furnished
as he ought to be, with valuable books, he can spend many
of his hours in increasing his knowledge in that way. Or
he may converse with his fellow passengers from morning
until night, and thus acquire much important information
respecting every portion of the country ; or communicate
what may benefit them.
If the weather is pleasant, he may spend much time in
viewing the banks of the river, covered with lofty forests,
or cultivated fields, with numerous villages and towns
springing up and adding new beauty to the scene. A pass*
ing steam-boat gives, ever and anon, variety to the events
of the day, and is a pleasing incident in the chronicle of
the voyage. A thousand objects, on the winding shores,
seen from the decks, arrest attention, and prevent him
from feeling the evils of ennui. Or he may even take a
seat, as I have done a hundred times, on the boiler deck,
and look down upon the movements of the firemen, who
are generally coloured men, and listen to their rude, but
frequently real wit, and their songs, when rousing up their
fires, or bringing on board a fresh supply of wood, and
especially when they are approaching or leaving ports.
In these musical fetes, some one acts as the leader, him-

348

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

self oftentimes no mean maker of verses, and the rest join
with all their might in the chorus, which generally constitutes every second line of the song. These chorusses
are usually an unmeaning string of words, such as " Ohio,
Ohio, Oh-i-o;" or " D hang, boys, hang;" or "'O stormy*
stormy," &e. When tired with the insipid gabble of the
card-table in the cabin, or disinclined to converse with
any one, I have spent hours in listening to the boat songs
of these men.
In conclusion, I would remark that it is the testimony
of the captains with whom I have conversed, that the
temperance reform is making gradual progress on board
the steam-boats of the West. On board the boat on
which this chapter was written, no ardent spirits are
drunk by either officers or men. Still, much remains to
be done.
But I must close this long, but still imperfect, account
of the steam-boats in the Yalley of the Mississippi.

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

349

CHAPTER XXVIII.
Hints to Emigrants on the modes of removing to the West.—Stage and
Steam-boat Routes.—Expenses of removing, and of travelling, &c. &c.

I PROPOSE to give, in this chapter, such information as I
am able, which may be useful to emigrants and travellers,
respecting the various modes of going to the Valley of the
Mississippi, and the expenses which must be encountered
by those who travel, or remove, to that part of our
country.
There are three general and grand routes, some one of
which must be pursued by every one who visits the Valley of the Mississippi, from the states which lie east of the
Allegheny Mountains:—
I. By the Lakes on the north.—This is the route which
emigrants and travellers from New England and the state
of New York will pursue. There are two points which
all of the first named class will aim at, viz.: Albany and
Buffalo. The major part of the New York column of
emigration will have only the latter named place to pass.
As it regards Albany, it is approached from New Eng*
land by five or six grand routes by land, which lead to it
from Vermont, Boston, Hartford, New Haven, & c , as
well as by the great natural highway, the Hudson River,
on which from 10 to 15 elegant steam-boats are running
daily. The approach to Buffalo is by stage or wagon on
the great western road from Albany to that place, or by
the grand canal, called the Erie and Hudson Canal, which
extends from the Hudson at Albany to Lake Erie at Buffalo. The following tables give the places and distances
on these routes.
1. BY THE ROAD.

From Albany to Buffalo, \ Little Falls
Schenectady
Miles 15 J Herkimer
Amsterdam
15 30 I UTICA
Caughnawaga
10 40 I Manchester
Palatine Bridge
12 52 Vernon
30

21
7

73
80

16

96

9 105
8 113

350

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Oneida
5
Lenox
7
Sullivan
5
Manlius
6
Jamesville
5
Onondaga Hill
7
Marcellus
8
Skaneateles
6
Auburn
7
Cayuga Bridge
9
Seneca Falls
3
Waterloo
4
Geneva
7
Canandaigua
16
East Bloomfield
9
West Bloomfield
5
Lima
4
Avon (East Village) 5
Avon Post-Office
2
Caledonia
8
Le Roy
6
Batavia
11
Pembroke
14
Clarence
8
Williamsville
8

118
125
130
136
141
148
156
162
169
178
181
185
192
208
217
222
226
231
233
241
247
258
272
280
288

Mendon
16 224
Pittsford
6 230
Rochester
8 238
Clarkson
18 256
Oak Orchard
22 278
Lewiston
40 318
Niagara Falls
7 325
From Albany to Rochester
via Cherry Valley*
Guilderland
14
State Bridge
12 26
Cherry Valley
26 52
Little Lakes
10 62
Bridgewater
20 82
Madison
14 96
Cazenovia
12 108
Manlius
12 120
Syracuse
7 127
Elbridge
15 142
Weeds Port
6 148
Montezuma
9 157
Lyons
17 174
Palmyra
14 188
Pittsford
15 203
Rochester
8 211
BUFFALO
10 298
Rochester to Buffalo,
Albany to Niagara Falls, Batavia
36
Canandaigua
208 Buffalo
40 76
There is also a route commencing on the Hudson river
at Catskill, and passing through the south-western counties, and through the villages of Ithaca, Bath, Canisteo,
Angelica, Ellicottville and Mavville, terminates at Portland Harbor on Lake Erie.
2. BY THE ERIE CANAL.
Albany
Troy
Junction
Schenectady
Amsterdam

0
7
9
30
46

Schoharie Creek
Caughnawaga
Spraker's Basin
Conajoharie
Bowman's Creek

53
57
66
69
72

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

Little Falls
Herkimer
Frankfort
Utica
Whitesborough
Oriskany
Rome
Smith's
LoormV
Oneida Creek
Canastota
New Boston
Chittenango
Manlius
Orville
Syracuse
Liverpool
Nine-mile Creek
Canton
Jordan
Weed's Port
Port Byron

88 1 Montezuma
95 1Clyde
100 Lyons
110 Newark
114 Palmyra
117 1 Fullom's Basin
125 j Pittsford
132 Rochester
138 1 Ogden
141 Adams' Basin
146 1 Brockport
150 Holley
154 [ Newport
162 Portville
165 Oak Orchard
171 Medina
173 Middleport
179 Lockport
185 Pendleton
191 Tonawanta
197 Black Rock
200 | Buffalo

351
206
217
226
233
241
254
260
270
282
285
290
295
305
309
314
315
321
333
340
352
360
363

There are now in operation on the Erie Canal, between
Albany and Buffalo, six transportation lines, numbering
120 boats; and two lines, that ply between Troy and Buffalo with 53 boats. There is also a line of boats plying
between Albany, Syracuse, and Oswego. Besides these,
there is a vast number of boats, belonging to individuals.
There are, also, several lines of PACKET BOATS on the

Erie Canal.
The number of boats that are daily, and almost hourly,
leaving Albany for Buffalo, affords abundant facilities to
emigrants, who can thus be conveyed, with their families
and property, to any point they may choose to designate,
at a very trifling expense.*
Having arrived at the beautiful and flourishing city of
* The price of passage in a packet boat is about 4 cents per mile,
that is, $14 50 from Albany to Buffalo. In the common boats, or line
boats, it is from 2 to 2 1-2 cents per mile. Families generally pay
Much less in proportion.

352

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Buffalo, the emigrant or traveller may go up Lake Erie in
a stream-boat, (of which there is a regular line, which
leaves that place every morning at 9 o'clock, besides those
which sail at other times) and stop at the following places,
viz.: Dunkirk, 45 miles from Buffalo—Portland, 60—Erie,
90—Salem, 120—Ashtabula, 135—Grand River, 165—
Cleveland, 195—Huron, 245—Sandusky, 260—Detroit,
330—Mackinaw, 600—Green Bay, 750—Chicago, 900.
The price of a cabin passage from Buffalo to Detroit is
at present $8. A deck passage is $4. A considerable
family—say five or six persons—and having a wagon load
of furniture, & c , may go on deck, and in a comfortable
manner in the summer season, for $20. To the intermediate, and also to the more remote places mentioned, the
price is proportionate, excepting, perhaps, a little higher
relatively, to Mackinaw, Chicago, & c , in as much as there
is less trade in that quarter, and but few boats visit there
at present.
It is 90 miles from Buffalo to Erie by land, and 188 to
Cleveland. It is 220 from Buffalo to Pittsburg by way
of Erie. From Cleveland to Columbus it is 140 miles,
and to Cincinnati, via Columbus, it is 250 miles. From
Sandusky city to Cincinnati, by way of Springfield, Dayton, & c , it is 215 miles. Stages run regularly, in the summer, from Buffalo to Erie, Cleveland, &c. on to Detroit;
and from Detroit to Chicago; and from Chicago to St.
Louis. The entire distance from Buffalo to St. Louis by
this route, is about 900 miles. Stages run also regularly
from Erie to Pittsburg; from Cleveland to Pittsburg ;
from Cleveland to Columbus and Cincinnati; and from
Sandusky city to Cincinnati.
II. By the various roads which lead to that country
from the East, beginning in the state of New York, and
extending in parallel lines down to the Gulf of Mexico.
The number of the most important of these roads, some
of which are turnpikes, is about 15. There are several
leading from New York into West Pennsylvania—one
along Lake Erie, already mentioned, reaching to Meadville—another further south. There are four or five
through Pennsylvania and Marylarid—one leading from
Harrisburg through Bellefonte out to E r i e ; another from
the same starting point, through Lewistown i Huntingdon,

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

WS

to Pittsburg; a third leads from Philadelphia through
Harrisburg, Carlisle, Chambersburg, and Bedford, to
Pittsburg ; and a fourth is from Baltimore, through Cumberland in Maryland, to Wheeling. There are two roads
in Virginia—one leading from Washington city through
the Valley of Virginia into East Tennessee; the other
from Richmond through Staunton, (intersecting that which
I have just named,) to Charleston on the Kanawha, and
ends at Guyandot on the Ohio. From North Carolina,
three roads lead into Tennessee—one from Wilkesboro,'
westward to Greenville; another from Rutherford through
Asheville to the same point; and a third further south
from Pendleton in South Carolina, across the southwestern angle of North Carolina, into Tennessee, along
the course of the Hiwassee,—called the Unika turnpike.
From Georgia, a road leads up into East Tennessee; and
several into Alabama,—the chief of which is that from Augusta through Milledgeville, Macon, and Columbus on the
Chattahooche, to Montgomery, and tkence to Tuscaloosa,
and also to Mobile. There is also a road fom Darien
through St. Mary's, and St. Augustine, to Tallahassee,
Pensacola, Mobile and New Orleans. On all these roads,
I believe that there are lines of stages, many of which run
three times a week, • and several every day. There are
besides these, several roads which cross the mountains,
and are a good deal travelled, but less important to emigrants and travellers, at present, than those named. One of
these roads runs from Montrose, in Pennsylvania, across the
northern tier of counties in that state, to Erie and Meadviile. There are two or three such roads in Virginia, and
as many in North Carolina.
One of the most important of the lines of communication
between the eastern and western parts of our country is the
Pennsylvania Canal and Rail Road, extending from Philadelphia to Pittsburg. This communication is by the canal
from Philadelphia up the Schuylkill to Reading, thence
across to the Swatara, down the banks of that stream to the
Susquehanna, up that river to the Juniata, along the Juniata to Holidaysburg, on the eastern side of the Allegheny
mountain ; thence by a Rail Road of 36 J to Johnstown, on
the western side; thence down the Conemaugh and Kiskiminitas to the Allegheny river, and along that river to
30*

354

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Pittsburg. A vast amount of business is now doing (1833)
on this canal, although the Rail Road is not completed
across the mountain. It is calculated that the tolls will
this year be $200,000 on this canal. In the course of a
few months that road, will be finished, and also the Rail
Road from Philadelphia to Columbia, on the Susquehanna,
17i miles below the mouth of the Swatara, between which
points there is a canal, which thus connects the Rail Road
with the Pennsylvania Canal. There will then be two lines
of communication (the canal and rail road) between Philadelphia and the Susquehanna.
The amount of business on this great channal of trade
and intercourse will be immense. The price of freight
from Philadelphia to Pittsburg is now $1 50 per hundred
lbs. Next year it will be at the rate of one dollar per
hundred lbs. I will add that it is contemplated to extend
this line of communication from Pittsburg by a Rail Road,
through Ohio, to a point on the Erie and Ohio Canal. Commissioners have been appointed to survey the route ; and
there is no doubt that this work will soon be accomplished.
When this is done a line of communication from Philadelphia into the great state of Ohio will be opened. Emigrants
removing from the East to Pittsburg and that region, and
even to the great country to the west of that city, will prefer this route.
I subjoin a table of the distances by the Columbia Rail
Road.
FROM PHILADELPHIA

TO PITTSBURG, commencing

at

Vine and Broad streets.
From Philadelphia to
Fair Mount Water
Works,
1
Lemon Hill,
} 1}
Viaduct over the
Schuylkill River, 1} 3
Buck Tavern
8 11
Spread Eagle,
5 16
Paoli,
4} 20}
Warren,
1} 22
Valley Creek,
7 29
Downingstown,
3 32

Columbia, 81 % miles.
Coatesville,
8 40
Buck Run,
4} 44}
Gap Tavern,
7 51}
Mine Ridge,
1 52}
Mill Creek,
5 57}
Soudersburg
3 60}
Conestoga Creek, 7 67}
Lancaster,
2 69}
Mount Pleasant, 7 76}
Columbia,
4i 81*

HINTS TO RMIGRANTS, ETC.

From Columbia to
Columbia as
above,
Marietta,
Bainbridge,
Falmouth,
Middletown,
Highspire,
Harrisburg,
Blue Mountain
Gap,
Port JDauphin,
Duncan's Island,
Beejen's,
Newport,
Lower Aqueduct,

355

Hollidaysburg, via Canal, 171J miles.
5 146
Thompsontown
7 153
81f Mexico,
4 157
3
84J Mifflintown,
14 171
6£. 91 i Lewistown,
14 185
3 | 94f | Waynesburg,
4£ 99 I Aughwick Falls, 12 197
Jack's Mountain, 6 203
3 102
6 209
Mill Creek,
6 108
5 214
Huntingdon,
7 221
Petersburg,
5 113
7 228
2£ 115J Alexandria,
12 240
9 124J Williamsburg,
10i 250J
Frankstown,
5 J 130
3 | 253|
Hollidaysburg,
5 135
6 141

From Hollidaysburg to Johnstown by the Allegheny Portage Rail Road, 36J miles.
Hollidaysburg
as above,
Walker's Point,
Inclined Plane,
W . 10,
Inclined Plane,

253J
l j 255
3 i 257^

W. 6,
6£
Mountain Branch, 9
Ebensburg
Branch,
3
Staple Bend,
10
Johnstown,
4J

263|
272f
275f
285|
290i

From Johnstown to Pittsburg by the Western Division of
Pennsyvania Canal, 104 wiles.
Johnstown as
above,
Laurel Hill,
Lockport,
Chesnut Hill,
Blairsville,
Saltzburg,
Salt Works,

290J
6* 297
10 307
5 312
8 320
16 336
r 343

Warrentown,
Leechburg,
Aqueduct over
the Allegheny,
Freeport,
Logan's Ferry,
Pine Creek,
Pittsburg,

5
10

348
358

3
2
13
12
6i

361
363
376
388
394J

356

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI*

I I I . By ship, round to Mobile and New-Orleans. To
those who are removing from the sea-ports on the Atlantic
to a southern point in the Valley, this route is the most
economical, and very convenient, inasmuch as it allows
them to take much household property with them at little
expense.
After reaching the West, it will be found most economical, pleasant, expeditious and.safe, to take a steam-boat
to such a point as will be most convenient for a journey by
land to the new place of residence, unless the. emigrant
chooses a situation on a navigable river, upon which steamboats are running. The emigrants who enter the Valley
of the Mississippfby way of the Lakes, will find it Cheapest to embark at the nearest point, on board of a boat on
the Ohio, Wabash, or Illinois, if they are proceeding to
the middle or southern 'parts of the Valley. But if they
are going to settle in a part of the country contiguous, or
within one or two hundred miles of the Lakes, they will
go by wagons or stages from the Lakes to the places
which they have selected.
Farmers, who remove to the West from the middle and
southern states, and I might say, from the states of NewYork and Connecticut, and who have good horses and
wagons, will find it still most economical to remove in
their own wagons, and carry with them as many of their
tools and implements, which are not too bulky or heavy,
as possible. Very good furniture, which can be sent by
water, or even carried in their own wagons, they had better take with them. For, although they can obtain such
articles in the West, yet they are dearer than in the E a s t ;
and, to the increase of cost must be added, often, the sacrifice of articles sold by emigrants, who possess them, but
do not carry them with them. The coarser and heavier,
or more bulky articles, can be purchased to greater advantage in the West, than carried there by emigrants.
Beds, common tables, chairs, &c. might be mentioned as
being articles of this description. But very fine articles of
cabinet ware, as well as clothing, kitchen and table furniture, tools of various descriptions, should be taken along
by every farmer, where it is not too inconvenient and expensive to do so.
But professional men, and, in a word, all those who
remove to towrns and villages, and possess little more than

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

357

the furniture of their houses, need not take any thing more
than the most valuable and easily transposed articles,
except in extraordinary cases, with them to the West.
For they will find it most convenient, and perhaps economical, to purchase these articles in the large towns of the
West.As to the expense of transporting household property,
goods, &c. by the three routes which I have already indicated, 1 can only speak generally, although I am confident
that I shall not err much.
By the first route, viz., through the Canal in New-York,
and the Lakes, I suppose, judging from what I can learn,
that the price of freight from New-York, or any where
on the North River, by this route would not exceed from
one and a half to two dollars a hundred, to any point within a hundred miles from the Lakes, nor even to Cincinnati,
and the country in that region. The same may be said
soon of St. Louis. Emigrants may calculate what it is
likely to cost them to remove from New-York or NewEngland, by this route to the West, and have what household and other property they may choose to take with
them, transported by canal-boats, steam-boats or sloops on
the Lakes, and wagons from the Lakes to the point to
which they design going.
As to the second general route, viz., by the several
roads whichs between the Lakes and the Gulf of Mexico,
lead from the East to the West, the price of transportation
from the Atlantic cities to the corresponding points on the
rivers in the West, from which steam-boats and flat-boats
run, is various,—being less in the northern part than in
the southern. For instance, freight is now carried at the
rate\>f from $1 to $1,50 per hundred, from Philadelphia to
Pittsburg, and from Baltimore to Wheeling. From Baltimore and Richmond to Guyandot on the Ohio, or Charleston on the Kanawha, or to Knoxville in East Tennessee,
the price of freight is from $4 to $5, sometimes a little
less, per hundred. From Savannah and Augusta, to Montgomery in Alabama, freight is probabiy about $3,50 or $4
per hundred at present.
As to the third route mentioned, viz., by ship from Boston, New-York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Richmond,
Charleston, & c , to New-Orleans or Mobile, the price of

358

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

freight varies very much, according to the state of trade
and other circumstances. But it is from 50 to 65 cents
usually, per hundred, for articles which are estimated in
that way, or more commonly at from 10 to 12cts. for a
cubic foot of almost any sort of thing which can be sent in
boxes. The voyage is usually about 10 or 15 days from
New-York or Philadelphia, and from 15 to 20 from Boston
to New-Orleans.
The price of freight from New-Orleans to St. Louis, is
about 62^ cents per hundred. From New-Orleans to
Nashville and Louisville, it is about the same as to St.
Louis: to Cincinnati, it is from 50 to 70 cents more per
hundred, when the boats cannot pass through the canal at
Louisville. And to Pittsburg, from New-Orleans, it is
from seventy-five cents to one dollar per hundred. But
these prices vary so much,—according to the stage of the
water, and the number of steam-boats running, that it is
impossible to be exactly and minutely accurate. Merchandize has been brought to Cincinnati, from Philadelphia via New-Orleans, for a cent a pound, or a dollar per
hundred, and to Pittsburg, for a dollar and a half per hundred, exclusive of insurance. I believe that the merchants
of Pittsburg would receive their goods from Philadelphia
and New-York, via New-Orleans, if it were not for the
risks at sea, and more especially for the delay which they
must undergo, which would seldom be less than six weeks.
Indeed they do now get their crates of crockery ware, and
some other articles, almost entirely by this mode of conveyance.
The prices of freight from Pittsburg to Cincinnati and
Louisville, is 30 cents per hundred on dry goods, and
$3,50 per ton on iron & c , when the steam-boats are running : but a dollar or two when the waters are too low
for any thing but keel and flat boats to run. And from
the same place to New-Orleans, it is usually from 40 to 50
cents per hundred on dry goods, and from $5,00 to $7,00
per ton on Pittsburg manufactures of iron & c , when the
waters are in a proper stage for the steam-boats to run.
From Cincinnati, Louisville, Nashville, and St. Louis
to New-Orleans, the price of freight is, of course, somewhat less, but not proportionably to the diminished distance.
As in shipping household goods, from eastern cities to

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

359

New-Orleans, so it is in shipping them from Pittsburg,
and any other place to another, in the Valley of the Mississippi—the whole is often taken in the lump, at a stipulated price. This is much cheaper than to pay at the rate
of the ordinary prices per hundred.
The following extract from Judge Hall's Illinois
Monthly Magazine, gives much valuable information for
emigrants, who are about to remove to Illinois, Indiana,
and Missouri. Indeed many of the remarks here made,
are applicable to the whole Valley of the Mississippi.
" In pursuance of our design of making our work useful
to persons who are about to emigrate to our state, we propose to answer a few of the questions which are sometimes
put to us by such individuals.
" What season is most favourable for those who come
from the Atlantic States, must depend upon the mode of conveyance which -they intend to adopt. In the spring, from
the time of the breaking up of the frost until warm weather,
all the natural roads, west of the mountains, are bad, and the
artificial, or turnpike roads, are so few, as to afford but little
assistance in a long journey. The emigrant, therefore,
should throw the latter out of his calculations, and lay his
plan in reference to the former. In the spring the bottomlands on the margins of our rivers are overflowed, the channels of all streams are full, and the travelling in any direction is impeded, and sometimes wholly stopped, by high
waters. The roads, generally speaking, are new; because
the great channels of trade and intercourse are not yet settled. Population is rapidly increasing, and trade fluctuating from point to point; the courses of roads are consequently often changed, before a permanent route is adopted.
Few roads, therefore, have become so fixed, as to their
location, as to have been beaten by travel, and improved
by a r t ; and the traveller who ventures out in the spring,
may expect to be obliged to wade through mire and water,
ancle deep, knee deep, and peradventure deeper than that.
But the spring is, for the same reason, the most eligible
season for travelling by water. The streams are then
swollen. The largest rivers rise from thirty to fifty feet
above low water mark ; rocks, snags, sawyers, and sandbars, those formidable obstacles to navigation, are now all
buried far below the surface ; the steam-boat glides with-

360

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

out interruption from port to port, ascends even the smallest rivers, and finds her way to places far distant from the
ordinary channels of navigation. Business is now active ;
the number of boats are increased, to meet the demand for
transportation ; and the traveller by water meets with no
delay ; while the hapless wight, who bestrides an unlucky
nag, is wading through ponds and quagmires, enjoying
the delights of log bridges and wooden causeways, and
vainly invoking the name of M'Adam, as he plunges deeper and deeper into mire and misfortune. Early in May
the waters begin to subside, the roads begin to get good,
and a short interval occurs when the traveller may proceed comfortably by land or water. But it is a season in
which no confidence can be placed, and not to be relied on,
except by such as are on the ground, ready to take advantage of its propitious moments. It is like a cessation of
arms in war, or a calm in the political world, when the
demons of discord are on the fence, ready to pounce down
upon the unsuspecting public, upon either side. If the
spring has been wet, the roads are still miry, and the
traveller who has been allured by the bright sun, and the
brilliant flowers, to forsake the steam-boat, will find, to
his great discomfiture, the effects of winter " lingering in
the lap of May." Should the spring, on the other hand,
have been unusually dry, the waters subside earlier than
common, and the travelling by steam-boat becomes precarious.
" In the autumn there is ordinarily but little rain, west
of the mountains. The weather is mild, and subject to few
changes. The roads become dry and good. Many of the
smaller streams are entirely exhausted, and their beds
dry, while others are so much diminished as to be easily
crossed at their fording places. But few of the rivers can
be now navigated by steam-boat-boats, while all of the
roads are passable, and many of them excellent. This,
too, is the season of plenty ; the crops are ripe, the cattle
fat, and travelling rendered cheap by the abundance of
food.
" Those, therefore, who expect to travel by water,
should come to our country in the spring, while those who
prefer the stages, or who use their own horses, should defer
the journey until September. Midsummer is objectionable
for a reason which will apply equally to the dead of winter,

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

361

—namely, the inclemency of the weather. And here an
idea occurs which is worthy of consideration. In the extreme western states, taverns are not numerous. Good
houses of entertainment are only found in the large villages,
and along a few of the most public roads. The traveller
is often obliged to make long stages, and to stop at uncomfortable houses; sometimes at log cabins, where a
single apartment must accommodate the family of the
owner and his guests, and sometimes at houses which are
unfinished, and open to the air. This is not so much the
case as ignorant or ill-tempered travellers represent. It
is an evil which may be in a great measure avoided, by
care in selecting the proper roads, and in finding out the
best houses of entertainment. Still it is an evil to be
guarded against, by persons who have been accustomed to
the comforts and luxuries of life. They will be unavoidaby
subjected on such a journey, to a greater degree of exposure to fatigue and weather than they have been accustomed t o ; and hence the propriety of adapting the season
and mode of conveyance to each other. In the summer,
or in the winter, long continued exposure to the extremes
of heat and cold, while actually travelling, would be severely felt, and the hours of rest would not bring their proper
refreshment at uncomfortable stopping places. In the
spring this exposure would be small, because most of the
journey would be prosecuted in the cabin of a steam-boat;
in the fall it would be little felt, because the air would be
mild and salubrious.
" As to the best season to emigrate to Illinois, in reference to health, we have but little to add to what we have
already said. We consider the climate of Illinois decidedly
healthy. We think it even more salubrious than that of
most other parts of the United States, and decidedly superior to that of any part of the sea-board. Emigrants,
however, are liable to disease on their arrival, from two or
three causes:—
1. From exposure to hardships, and extremity of climate
on their journey.
2. From the want of comfortable habitations, at their
first settlement.
8.' From change of food.
Fatigue, when long continued and excessive, most gene31

362

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

rally enfeebles the body, and predisposes it to disease.
"Heat, cold, or sudden and frequent transitions from the one
to the other, when endured for a length of time, have a
similar tendency. Bad food, and loss of sleep, are also
sometimes added to the discomfort of the traveller; and
he thus arrives in the country debilitated, and prepared to
fall an easy victim to the first assault of disease.
" The number of houses in a new country is barely sufficient to accommodate the inhabitants; and in the infancy
of society, but few dwellings contain superfluous apartments. The new comers must, therefore, either be crowded into the houses of the settlers, which are already filled
with inmates, or they must erect buildings, which, in the
first instance, are merely temporary. In either case they
are subjected to inconveniences to which they are not accustomed, to much exposure to the atmosphere, and to the
entire abandonment, for a time, of their regular domestic
economy. These circumstances, with the change of food
and air, throw the emigrant into a new state of being,
which affects his constitution for good or for evil; sometimes restoring the invalid to complete health, and as often
prostrating the energies of the sound in body.
" From these remarks, a judicious man, with a knowledge
of his own means, will be able to draw the proper conclusions. Should he be disposed to travel by land, he should
come in the autumn, but should, by all means, so make his
arrangements, as to arrive in this country long enough
before the setting in of the winter, to provide for that season. Houses can seldom be had for rent. Markets are
not yet established in our villages. Some time, therefore,
is requisite to build, or procure winter quarters, and to lay
in a stock of provisions and fuel.
" Taking every thing into consideration, we should prefer a conveyance by water. The rapidity with which the
trip is performed, is one great advantage in favour of this
mode of travelling. The avoidance of fatigue and exposure is another, and not an unimportant one ; and the opportunity which it affords of transporting a number of
articles of furniture and clothing, and a variety of farming
utensils, or mechanic's tools, all of which are a vast deal
dearer here than at the eastward, renders i t much the
most eligible. The advantage of arriving in the spring.

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

363

rather than the autumn, is very great, so far as health and
comfort are concerned. In the spring, the new settler
can, at once, commence building and making preparations
for living, without being exposed at the same time to
extremity of weather.
" As to the choice of routes, a person in any of the eastern cities can obtain sufficient information to enable him
to make his own election. The most rapid conveyance is
from Boston to Providence, or New Haven, by stage ;
thence to New-York, by "steam-boat; thence to Philadelphia, by stage or steam-boat; thence to Baltimore, by
steam-boat ,• thence"" to Wheeling, by stage; thence to
Louisville, by steam-boat; and from the latter place either
to Vandalia, by stage ; or to Shawneetown or St. Louis,
by steam-boat.- The route by the New-York canal and
Lake Erie will be more circuitous, but may now be travelled nearly all the way by water, and is preferable for
those who bring heavy articles. If water carriage all the
way be desirable, a voyage to New Orleans, and thence
up the Mississippi, will afford that convenience.
" The expenses on the route by the New-York canal,
will be nearly as follows :
From New-York to Albany, including every
thing
# 2 50
From Albany to Buffalo, by packet boats, .
14 50
or in the line boats, about #10 00
From Buffalo to Erie, by steam-boat,
.
2 00
Or from Buffalo to Ashtabula, by steam-boat,
4 50
Or from Buffalo to Cleveland, by steam-boat,
6 00
From Erie to Beaver, by stage, including every
, thing,
5 50
t
From Beaver to Cincinnati, by steam-boat,
10 00
From Cincinnati to Louisville, by steam-boat, 3 00
From Louisville to Shawneetown, by steam-boat, 6 00
From Louisville to St. Louis, by steam-boat, 12 00
" The routes from Cleveland, or Ashtabula, to Cincinnati, or any other point on the Ohio, as well as the distances, may be ascertained from the traveller's maps [in this
work,] which are accurate enough for practicable purposes.
The expenses will be from 4 1-2 to 6 cents per mile.
" The expense of travelling, for one person, by stage and

364

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

steam boat, from Philadelphia to St. Louis, is about $55,
including every thing.
From New Orleans to St. Louis, by steam boat, #25 00
.From St. Louis to Beardstown, Illinois,
6 00
From St. Louis to Quincy, Illinois,
6 00
From St. Louis to Galena, Illinois,
12 00
" All the above prices refer to the best and most expensive modes of travelling, namely, in the public stages, and
the cabins of steam boats, and the price of a passage in a
western boat always includes food and lodging. Those who
cannot afford to take what is called a cabin passage in a
steam boat, may be accommodated with what is called a
deck passage. The deck, for the use of such passengers,
is protected from the weather, but has no other convenience.
Passengers on deck furnish their own beds and provisions.
Many respectable emigrants find it to their advantage to
travel in this way.
" A deck passage from Beaver to Louisville
would cost,
$4 00
From Wheeling to Louisville,
4 00
From Louisville to St. Louis,
3 00
From New Orleans to St. Louis,
8 00
From St. Louis to Beardstown,
2 00
From St. Louis to Quincy,
2 00
From St. Louis to Galena,
3 00
" On reaching Louisville, several routes to Illinois are
presented. A stage runs from that place, by Vincennes,
directly to Vandalia, thence to Springfield, in Sangamon
county, and from Springfield north to Galena, or west to
Jacksonville. Should the traveller wish to visit any of the
eastern parts of the state, lying along the Wabash, he may
take the stage as far as Vincennes, from * which place, in
the spring, he can,ascend or descend the Wabash; or he
may embark at Louisville, in a steam boat for a place on
that river. For the southern part of the state, he may land
at Shawneetown, or Kaskaskia, where he may hire horses;
but in neither place will he find stages, to carry him into the
interior. For the western or north-western parts of Illinois,
the proper point to make is St. Louis. From that place
steam-boats depart almost every day, for all the towns in
Illinois which lie on the shores of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. Stages run from this place three times a week

HINTS TO EMIGRANTS, ETC.

365

to Vincennes, through Belleville, Lebanon, Carlyle, Maysville and Lawrenceville ; once a week to Vandalia through
Edwardsville and Greenville ; and once a week to Galena,
through Edwardsville, Springfield and Peoria."
A letter from an emigrant, who removed to Illinois last
fall, states his expenses to have been as follows ; from Boston to Pittsburg, by way of Albany, Buffalo, and Erie, $48,
35. From Pittsburg to Jacksonville, $53 84. Total $101,
19. This was for himself and his wife, and includes the
expenses of one day at Erie, and two at Wheeling. From
Wheeling to Louisville he took a deck passage, which is
economical, but ought not to be calculated upon by those
who. regard health or comfort. He thinks that the route
which he took is the best. From Albany to Buffalo he
went by the canal, and from Wheeling to St. Louis by
steam boat. The necessary expenses must of course vary
somewhat, as prices change and delays are uncertain.
To the above statements, I subjoin a few other items of
information which may be of use to travellers.
Miles. Expense.
From Philadelphia to Pittsburg by stage, 300 $15 00
Baltimore to Wheeling
271
12 00
402
14 00
Philadelphia via Baltimore to Wheeling
Pittsburg to Wheeling
59
4 50
140
8 00
Wheeling to Columbus
177
10 50
Columbus to Cleveland
45
2 00
Columbus to Chillicothe
94
5 50
Chillicothe to Cincinnati
110
6 50
Columbus to Cincinnati (direct)
112
5 75
Cincinnati to Indianapolis
86
4 00
Indianapolis to Madison
76
4 50
Cincinnati to Lexington
75.
4 50
Lexington.to Louisville
"267
15 50
Louisville to St. Louis, via Vincennes
180
12 00
Louisville to Nashville
Richmond to Cincinnati, via Staunton, Lewisburg, Charleston on the Kanawha, and
Guyandot, (by steam boat from the last
named place 155 miles)
515
28 00
Richmond to Knoxvilie, via Lynchburg, Abingdon, Kingsport, &c.
444
28 50
31*

366

VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Baltimore to Richmond, via Norfolk, by
378 $10 00
steam boat
199
12 50
Knoxville to Nashville, via McMinville
224
15 00
Nashville to Memphis
110
8 25
Nashville to Florence
155
10 00
Huntsville to Tuscaloosa
146
9 00
Florence to Tuscaloosa
119
8 00
Tuscaloosa to Montgomery
Tuscaloosa to Mobile by steam boat (about
450 miles by the river and 226 by land.)
12 00
Augusta to Montgomery, via Milledgeville,
Macon, Columbus, &c.
300
18 50
Montgomery to Mobile by steam boat
12 00
400
(about)
180
12 00
Do. by stage
160
12 00
Mobile to New Orleans
600
35 00
St. Augustine to Mobile about
From Boston, New York, Philadelphia,
Baltimore and Richmond to New Orleans, by a packet ship from
$60 to $65
The above statements are not in every instance, precisely accurate, but are nearly so. The prices vary somewhat every year. They are probably below rather than
above the estimates which I have given.

ENTDXBL
>»%%&«<*
A.
Albany (New), Ind,
.
171
Allegheny Town,
,
114
Alexandria, La.
.
283
Alton,
.
228
America, discovery of, .
14
extent and population,
13
North extent and divisions,
13
South do.
do.
13
town of,
.
227
American Fur Company,
245
Athens, O.
.
156
Tenn.
.
208
Arkansas, River, 33-35; 257,258
Territory, description of,
256-260
government, judiciary,
&c. ' ^
.
257
surface, soil, productions,
rivers, &c.
257,258
towns,
.
258,259
curiosities,
.
259
land offices,
...
259
general remarks concerning its climate, &c.
&c.
259,260
Arkansas, town or post,
258
Alabama, River, .
293,294
State, description of 290-300
government, judiciary,
&c.
.
292
surface of the country,
soil, productions,rivers,
&c.
292-295
cities and towns,
295-298
education,
298
322-324
land'offices,
.
299
general remarks respecting its climate, &c.
298-300

J3.

Baton Rouge,
.
283
Beardstown,
.
228
Belleville, 111.
^
.
227
Benevolent Societies,
.
330
Birmingham, •
.
114
Blakely,
.
296,297
Blountville,
.
207
Bolivar, Tenn.
.
208
Boone, Daniel
.
52-200
Brownsville, Pa.
.
112
Burlington, O.
.
152
C.
Canals, Erie and Hudson, 350, 351
Pennsylvania,
355
Ohio and Erie,
144,145
Miami Canal,
145
Wabash and Erie, 168,169
Louisville,
195
Illinois and Michigan 226
N. Orleans and Lake Ponchartrain,
279
Canonsburg,
112
Canton, O.
153
Cape Girardeau,
243
Chicago,
228
Cif cleville, O.
154 ,
Cincinnati, situation, history,
manufactures, &e.
• 149-152
Clarksville, Tenn.
208
Cleveland, O.
155
Columbia, Tenn.
208
Columbus, O.
154,155
Coshocton, O.
153
Cotton, manner of cultivating
it,
269,270
Covington, Ky.
198
Covington, La.
283
COLLEGES, LITERARY.

Allegheny College,
Augusta College,

311
317

INDEX.

. Catholic College at Bardstown,
318
Catholic College at St.
Louis,
320,321
Catholic College in Perry
Co. Missouri,
321
Catholic College at New
Orleans,
322
Catholic College at Mobile,
322
Catholic College at Cin- .
cinnati,
315
Centre College,
316,317
Cumberland College, 317,318
Georgetown College,
317
Greenville College,
319
Illinois College,
520
Indiana College,
315
Jefferson College, (Pa.) 310
Jefferson College, (Miss.) 321
Kenyon College,
314
Knoxville College,
319
La Grange College,
322
Louisana College, at Jackson,
321,322
New Athens, O.
314
Port Gibson College,
321
Ripley, O. College
315
Washington College,.
(Tenn.)
319
Washington College, (Pa.)
310, 311
Western Reserve College,
313, 314
COLLEGES, MEDICAL,

Medical College of Cincinnati,
315
Jefferson Medical College,
310
Transylvania Medical College,
316
D.
Dayton, O.

155

DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUMS,

at Columbus, O.
at Danville, Ky.
Delphi, Ind.
Detroit, city,
river,
Donaldsonville,

315
318
172
183,184
187
283

E.
Educatipn in the West, general
remarks respecting it, 63, 64
F.
Florence,
297,298
Florida, purchase of, 14,15; attempts to settle it made by
Ponce de Leon, 45; Grijalva
and Vasqiies, 45; Narvaez, 45;
Ferdinand de Soto, 46; Colligny,
46
description of,
301-309
government, judiciary ,&c.302
surface of the country, soil,
productions, rivers, &c.
' 302-306
cities and towns,
306, 307
education,
308
land offices,
309
general remarks concerning
its climate, &c. 308, 309
Frankfort, Ky.
195,196
G.
Galena,
Gallipolis, O.
Greensburg, Pa.

228
152
112

H.
Harmony, (New) Ind.
171,172
Herculaneum, Mo.
243
Hints to emigrants and travellers, respecting the various
routes to the West, expense
of removing and travelling
thither,
349-366
I.
Ibber ville, plants the first French
colonies in the southern part
of the Valley,
47,48
Illinois, River,
225
State, description of, 215-234
government, judiciary, &c.
217, 218
surface of the country, soil,
productions, manufactures, rivers, &c. 219-226
canals and roads,
226
towns,
226-228
education,
228,229

INDEX.

colleges,
320
land offices,
230
general remarks, concerning- its climate, emigrants
removing thither, &c. 229-234
Indiana State, description of,
160-177
government, judiciary, &c.
162, 163
surface of the country, soil,
productions, rivers, &c.
163-168
canals and roads,
168,169
towns,
170-172
manufactures,
172
education,
'
172
colleges, &c.
315, 316
land offices,
174
general remarks concerning its climate, &c. &c.
173-177
Indianapolis,
170
J.
Jackson, Mi.
Jacksonville,
Jefferson Barracks,
Jefferson City, Mo.
Jeffersonville, Ind.

267
227
243
242
171

K.
Kaskaskia,
^ ^ 227
Kentucky State, description of
.189-200
government, judiciary, &c.
191,192
surface of the country, soil,
productions, rivers, &c.
]92-194
cities and towns,
195-198
roads and canals,
195
education,
198
colleges, &c.
316-318
its early settlement,
200
curiosities,
199
general remarks, concerning its climate, &c. 199,200
Key West,
307
Knoxville,
207
L.
Lancaster, O.

154

369

La Salle, explores the Valley, 46
his death,
47
Lawrenceburg, Ind.
170,171
Lafayette, Ind.
172
Lexington, Ky.
196
Literature, (Periodical) of the
West,
324
Little Rock, Ark. Ter.
258
Logansport, Ind.
172
Louisiana, purchase of,
14
Louisiana State, description of,
271-289
government, judiciary, &c.
surface of the country, soil,
productions, rivers, &c.
273-277
cities and towns, 277-283
climate,
283,284
education,
284
colleges,
321,322
land offices,
285
general remarks respecting,
284-289
Louisville, Ky.
196,197
.
M.
Mackinac,
184
Madison, Ind.
171
Marietta, O.
152,153
Maysville, Ky.
197,198
Masillon, O.
153
Memphis,
208
M'Minville,
'
208
Michigan Lake,
187
Territory, description of
178-188
government, judiciary,
&c.
180
surface of the country, soil,
productions, rivers, &c.
180-183
cities and towns,
183-185
education,
185
land offices,
186
genera] remarks concerning,
185-188
Mississippi River, 23, 24, 31-34
scenery,
251-255
State, description of, 262-270
government, judiciary, &c.
263,264

370

INDEX.

surface of the country,
soil, productions, rivers,
&c.
264-267
cities and towns,
267,268
education,
268
colleges,
321
land offices,
269
general remarks concerning its climate, &c.&c.
268-270
Missouri, River, 29, 36,241,242
State, description of, 235-250
government, judiciary, &c.
236,237
surface ofthe country, soil,
productions, manufactures, rivers, &c. 237-242
cities and towns, 242-247
education,
247,248
colleges,
320,321
land office,
249
general remarks, concerning its climate, &c.
&c.
248-250
Mobile,
295,296
Montgomery,
297
Murfreesboro',
208
N.
Nashville,
208-210
Natchez,
267,268
Natchitoches,
283
Newark, O.
153
New Lisbon, O.
153
New Madrid,
247
New Philadelphia, O.
153
New Orleans,
277-283
O.
Ohio, River, its scenery, &c.
124-129
State, description of, 139-160
government, judiciary,
&c.
141,142
surface of the country,
soil, productions, rivers,
&c. ' 142-144,147,148
canals and roads,
144-147
manufactures,
148, 149
cities and towns,
149-155
education,
155,156
colleges,
313-315
land offices,
157

history,
159
general remarks concerning,
156-160
I
P.
' Pensacola,
^ 306, 307
Pittsburg, situation, history,
manufactures, trade, &c.
113-119
Portsmouth, O.
152
Public Lands, sales of,
66
R.
Rail Roads, Allegheny summit, 355
Lexington and Louisville, 195
Erie and Mad River,
145
Pittsburg and Ohio,
354
Virginia and E. Tennessee
134
Baltimore and Ohio,
58
N. Orleans and Ponchartrain,
279
Randolph, Tenn.
208
Red River,
277
Regions which lie North and
West of Missouri and Illinois,
260, 261
RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS & SECTS.

Associate Church,
328
Associate Reformed,
328
Baptists,
325
Catholics,
328,329
Cumberland Presbyterians,
326
Covenanters,
328
Christians, or New Lights, 328
Emancipators,
327
Episcopalians,
327
Friends,
~
329
German Reformed,
327
Lutherans,
327
Methodists,
326
Presbyterians,
326
Shakers,
328
Tunkers,
327
Ripley, O.
152
Shreve, Captain,
61
Snag-boat, or Uncle Sam's
Toothpuller,
252,253
St. Augustine,
307
St. Charles,
243
St. Genevieve,
243

INDEX.

371

Miami University, Ohio, 313
St. Louis,
244-247
Nashville University, 318,319
Steubenville, O.
153
Transylvania University, 316
Sparta, Tenn.
# 208
University of Ohio, at
STEAM-BOATS, of the West, their
Athens,
313
number, size, cost, appearance, scenes on them, &c.
Western University of Pa. 311
&c.
332-348
V.
Valley of the Mississippi, bounSugar, its growth and manudaries,
facture,
285-288
# 21-25
T.
Geography and physical
Tallahassee,
307
character,
23,25-36
Tennessee State, description of 201
History,
45
government, &c.
203
climate, productions, minsoil, productions, rivers,
erals, soil, trees, ani«&c.
• 203-205
mals, &e.
37-45
manufactures,
205
manners, customs, and purcities and towns,
208-210
suits of the people, 99-106
education,
210
climate and diseases, 67-87
colleges
318,319
Indian tribes, monuments
curiosities,
210
of antiquity, &c.
87-99
. general remarks concernsubdivisions,
26-30
ing,
210-214
reasons for expecting a raTerre Haute,
172
pid increase in future, 52-67
THEOLOGICAL SEMINARIES,
Valley of the Upper MississipTheological Seminary of
pi,
31-33
the Associate church, 312 Valley of the Lower MississipTheological Seminary of
pi,
33-35
the Associate ReformValley of the St. Lawrence,
22
ed,
312
Character,
23
Lane Seminary at CincinValley, or Basin of Hudson's Bay ,19
nati,
314, 315 Valley, or Basin of Mackensie's
Theological School at CoRiver,
19
lumbus, O.
315 Valley of the Missouri,
35, 36
Rock Spring Theological
Valley of the Ohio,
30,31
Seminary,
320 Valley, Great Central Valley of
Western Theological SeNorth America, boundaries,
minary at Allegheny
and character, & c
18-25
town, Pa.
, 311, 312 Vandalia,
226,227
Hanover Academy or TheVevay,
171
ological Institution, Ind.
Vicksburg,
268
315, 316 Vincennes,
171
Southern and Western
Vide Poche,
244
Theological Seminary
W.
at Mary ville, Tenn. 319,320 Washington, Gen. campaigns
Tuscaloosa,
297
in the West,
49
U.
Washington, (town of) Pa.
112
United States, History,
14
Mi.
^
268
limits,
15,16 Western Pennsylvania, descripsubdivisions,
17
tion of,
107-123
UNIVERSITIES,
surface of the country, soil,
Alabama University, 322,323
productions, rivers, &c.
109-112

372

INDEX.

government, judiciary, &c.
108,109
cities and towns,
112-119
history,
120-122
education,
119
colleges,
310-313
roads and canals,
111, 112
general remarks concerning it,
120-123
Western Virginia, description
of,
129-138
surface of the country, soil,
productions, rivers, &c.
131-137

government, judiciary, &e.
cities and towns,
137
education,
137
general remarks, concerning,
138
Wheeling, Va.
. 137
Winchester, Tenn.
208
Winchester, Mi.
268
Y.
Yazoo River,
266
speculation,
266
Z.
Zanesville, O.
153,154