Rosedale and Linden Park V\\\x Linden, New Jersey LARGEST CEMETERIES IN THE STATE ■">./ Beautiful and Accessible 2 miles from Elizabeth 7 miles from Newark 14 miles from New York On fAain Line "Pennsylvania Railroad TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES Superior to those of any other cemetery as to number of trains, rail- road fare, time, and distance. Why Lots in these Cemeteries commend themselves to Heads of Families and Investors. BECAUSE of the $1,000,000 Trust Fund provided for by the Trustees in each Cemetery, the income from which will keep the properties perpetually beau- tiful at NO EXPENSE TO LOT OWNERS. ;;BECAUSE such a guarantee, not found in any other cemetery, assures lot owners that the grounds will be maintained permanently as beautiful parks AFTER THE INCOME FROM THE SALE OF LOTS HAS BEEN EXHAUSTED. BECAUSE' Linden Lodge is the largest, most modern, and best equipped ceme- tery lodge in the country, and provided with every requisite for the comfort and convenience of visitors and. lot owners. Lots should be Purchased Nota. BECAUSE more advantages are offered to buyers in a new Modern Park Cemetery than in those which have been established many years, and in most cases no provision made for perpetual care without extra expense to lot owner. There are a greater number of ideal locations to select from; prices of lots are always lower and terms more advantageous. BECAUSE life is most uncertain and everyone should anticipate the inevitable by making a choice now of a final resting place. During the hours of grief no one is able to make a wise selection of a burial lot ; therefore, it is better to arrange for this necessity during health and life than to force the painful duty on one’s friends or relatives after death. Lots Will ProVe a Good Investment. BECAUSE they are sure to increase in value, and can be PURCHASED NOW at the INITIAL PRICE and upon the MOST ADVANTAGEOUS TERMS. BECAUSE the properties are accessible from every quarter and within easy reach of 4,000,000 people, and considering the steady and rapid growth of Greater New York and its tributary cities and towns, it is only a question of a .short time when plots in Rosedale and Linden Park will equal in value those of our most noted cemeteries. Free transportation to prospective buy- ers on application to any LEAD 1NG UNDERTAKER or offices of the As- sociation, Linden Lodge, 87 Broad St., 776 Broad St., 768 Bergen Ave.. 10 West 23d St., Linden, N. J. Elizabeth, N. J. Newark, N. J. Jersey City, N. J. New York' City.FULLER BUILDING—Twenty-third Street, Broadway and Fifth Avenue.RAND, McNALLY & CO.’S HANDY GUIDE TO New York City Brooklyn Staten Island, and Other Districts Included in the Enlarged City By ERNEST INGERSOLL WITH MAPS, PLANS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FIFTEENTH EDITION. Copyright, 1895, by Rand, McNally & Co. Copyright, 1902, by Rand, McNally & Co. Copyright, 1903, by Rand, McNally & Co. RAND, McNALLY & CO., PUBLISHERS CHICAGO AND NEW YORK 1904BROADWAY — Looking!I from the Post Qffice, City Hall. I -Si mil 111 is. : ST- 4w H SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS’ MONUMENT — Riverside Drive. nr CONTENTS. a I. An Introduction to New York, . Page 7 II. .Getting about the City, “ 16 III. Theaters and other Amusements, .... “ 45 IV. The City’s Parks, Drives, and Public Museums, . “ 59 V. A Tour of the City, “ 82 VI. The Rivers and Harbor, ..... “ 126 VII. A Ramble at»Night, ....... “ 147 VIII. Churches and Religious and Benevolent Work, -. “ 157 IX. Educational Institutions, Libraries, etc., “ 174 X. Clubs and Societies, ....... “ 188 XI Greater New York, ....... “ 195 XII. Seaside and Suburban Resorts, .... “ 209 247029 4 WHEN TRAVELLING ’Tis well to know That Onyx” Hosiery For Men, Women and Children is sold at all the stores and furnishing shops. All your hosiery ideas are made in “ Onyx.” WE GUARANTEE MEHODJE” UNDERWEAR and EVERY PAIR OF ONYX” HOSE “ M erode” ( HAND-FINISHED) RIBBED UNDERWEAR For Women and Children Weights for warm days and weights for cool ones. The Best Ribbed Underwear in America. Ask for them Lord & T ay lor (Wholesale) I. AN INTRODUCTION TO NEW YORK. Advice to Inexperienced Travelers. The metropolis has many entrances. A dozen regular lines of steamships bring passengers from Europe, and many others from South and Central America, the West Indies, and the ports along the Gulf of Mexico and the South Atlantic Coast. Lines of steamboats connecting with railroads come down the Hudson and from Long Island Sound. Five great railway termini stand upon the western bank of the Hudson and are connected with New York by ferries. Long Island is covered with a network of roads. Finally, in the very heart of the city, stands the Grand Central Depot. It will be well to point out distinctly the landing-places of passengers arriving by any one of these routes, beginning with the ocean steamships. Cabin passengers may go ashore as soon as the vessel is made fast and will find custom house inspectors ready to examine their baggage on the wharf without delay. Pick out your trunks, give to the inspector your “ declaration ” and your keys, be polite and good- tempered and the ordeal is quickly and easily passed. Steamship Landings. TRANSATLANTIC STEAMSHIPS. American Line.— Pier 14 (new), North River, foot of Fulton St.; office, 73 Broadway. (Southampton.) Allan-State Line.—Pier, foot of W. 21st St., N. R.; office, 53 Broadway. (Glasgow and Londonderry.) 78 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Anchor Line.— Pier 54 (new), N. R., foot of W. 24th St.; office, 19 Broadway. (Glasgow, via Moville and Londonderry.) Atlantic Transport Line.— Pier 39 (new), N. R.; office, 1 Broad- way. (New York and London, direct.) Compagnie Generate Trans at lantique.— Pier 42 (new), N. R., foot of Morton St.; office, 32 Broadway. (French Line to Havre.) Cunard Line.— Piers 51 and 52, N. R., foot of Jane St.; office, 29 Broadway. (Liverpool, via Queenstown.) Hamburg-American Line.— Pier, foot of 1st and Newark Sts. Hoboken, N. J.; office, 37 Broadway. (Hamburg, via Plymouth, for London, and Cherbourg for Paris.) Holland-American Line.— Pier, 5th St., Hoboken; office, 39 Broadway. (Rotterdam, via Boulogne sur Mer.) North German Lloyd Line.— Pier, foot of 2d St., Hoboken; office, 5 Broadway. (Bremen, via Southampton, and Genoa, via Gibraltar.) Phoenix Line.— Pier, foot of 7th St., Hoboken; office, 22 State St. (Antwerp.) Prince Line.— Atlantic Pier, Brooklyn; office, 61 Broadway/ (Azores, Naples, and Genoa.) Red Star Line.— Pier 14 (new), N. R., foot of Fulton St.; office, 73 Broadway. (Antwerp.) Scandinavian-American Line.— Pier foot of 41st St., Brooklyn; office, Produce Exchange Annex. (Christiania, Copenhagen, and St. Petersburg.) White Star Line.— Pier 48, N. R., foot of W. nth St.; office, 9 Broadway. (Liverpool, via Queenstown.) Wilson Line.— Pier 50, N. R., foot of Bethune St.; office, 22 State St., New York. (Hull.) COASTWISE STEAMSHIPS. Atlas Steamship Company.— Pier 55 (new), N. R., foot of W. 25th St.; office, 17 State St. (West Indies, South and Central America.) Clyde Steamship Company.—Pier 45, N. R., foot of Christopher St.; office, 19 State St. (Charleston and Jacksonville.) Cromwell Line.— Pier 9, N. R., foot of Rector St.; offices at Pier and 349 Broadway. (New Orleans.) Maine Steamship Company.— Pier (new) 32, E. R. (Portland.) Mallory Line.— Pier 20, E. R., Burling Slip; office, 385 Broad- way. (Galveston, Key West, Fernandina, and Brunswick.) Morgan Line (Southern Pacific Road).— Pier 25, N. R., foot of N. Moore St.; offices at Pier and 349 Broadway. (New Orleans.) Munson Steamship Line.— Pier 14, E. R., foot of Wall St.; office, 27 William St. (Cuba and Mexico.) New York Cuba Mail Steamship Company (Ward Line).— Piers 16 and 17, E. R., foot of Wall St.; office, 113 Wall St. (Ports in Cuba and Mexico, and Nassau, N. P.)AN INTRODUCTION TO NEW YORK. 9 Old Dominion Steamship Company.—Pier 26 (new), N. R., foot of Beach St.; office, on the Pier. (Norfolk, Richmond, etc.) Panama Railroad Steamship Line.—Pier 57, N. R., foot of W. 27th St.; office, 21 State St. (California, Mexico, Central and South America, via Isthmus of Panama.) New York and Porto Rico Steamship Co.—Pier, foot Dock St., Brooklyn; office, 1 Broadway. (Ports in Porto Rico.) Quebec Steamship Compa7iy.— Bermuda and West Indies Line.— Pier 47 (new), N. R., foot of W. 10th St.; office, 39 Broadway. (Ber- muda and Windward Islands.) Red D. Lines.—Robert Pier No. 10 Stores, Brooklyn; office, 135 Front St. (Porto Rico, Curacao, W. I., La Guayra, and other Vene- zuelan ports.) Royal Dutch West Indies Mail Lme.— Pier, foot Dock St., Brooklyn; office, 32 Beaver St. (Port au Prince, Curacao, etc.) Savannah Lme.—Pier 35, N. R., foot of Spring St.; New Pier 35, N. R. (Savannah.) All of the steamship landings are adjacent to surface cars (tram- cars) to all parts of the city; several of the principal hotels, including the Brevoort, Fifth Avenue, and some others, send their own coaches to meet the incoming steamers of the transatlantic lines. River and Sound Steamboats. The only lines of River and Long Island Sound steamers with which we need concern ourselves here are those that do more than a merely local traffic, and connect at their farther end with railways. The River boats cease running during the winter months, when the Hudson is impeded by ice, but the Sound boats are never interrupted, and rarely delayed. Most of the Hudson River boats touch at W. 22d St. The ordinary time of arrival is between 5 and 7 a. m., or, for the day lines, toward sunset. The landings of these boats are at the foot of the streets following: Albany Day Line.......................Desbrosses St. Albany, People’s Line (night)_______________Canal St. Bridgeport (Housatonic R. R.)_______Market St., E. R. Catskill (Catskill Mtn. R. R.)________Christopher St. Central New Jersey (Sandy Hook)____________Rector St. Fall River Line (Railroad to Boston)______WTarren St. Hartford___________________________ __Peck Slip, E. R. Kingston (Ulster & Delaware R. R.)......__W. 10th St. “ Mary Powell”_________________________Desbrosses St. New Haven (N. V., N. H. &,H. R. R. R.)____Peck Slip. Norwich (New London & Northern R. R.)___ .Spring St. Stonington (Railroad to Boston).............Spring St. Troy, Citizens’ Line.................-......W. 10th St.10 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Railway Stations. Central R. R. of New Jersey, Baltimore & Ohio (Royal Blue Line), and Philadelphia & Reading R. R., and dependencies. Ferry Pier No. 15, foot of Liberty St., New York. Another terminus of the Royal Blue Line is at South Ferry, the southern terminus of all the elevated railways, and the landing-place of several ferries. Pennsylvania R. R., Lehigh Valley, New York, Susquehanna & Western R. R., Station in Jersey City, with ferries to Cortlandt* Desbrosses, and W. 23d Sts. The Cortlandt St. ferry is the best one to take for a person going to lower Broadway, Wall St., the Post Office, the Brooklyn Bridge. or up-town by any of the elevated roads. The new ferry-house at the foot of W. 23d St., however, is regarded by the company as its main New York station, and thither goes the baggage to “ New York,” unless otherwise checked. This ferry is provided with very fine boats, and a full service of “ Pennsyl- vania cabs,” as well as reached by many lines of street cars. For Brooklyn take the Annex boat from the Jersey City side. Erie R. R., Chicago & Erie R. R., New York & Greenwood Lake R. R., New Jersey Northern R. R., and local dependencies, Pavonia Av., Jersey City, reaching New York by ferries to Chambers St. and W. 23d St. The former is within three blocks of the Warren St. station of the Ninth Av. El. Ry., or of the Chambers St. station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry., and within six blocks of the City Hall, Post Office, Brooklyn Bridge, and the City Hall station of the Third and Second Av. El. Rys. Delaware, Lackawanna & Western, and Morris & Essex R. Rs. have a depot in Hoboken, whence ferries come to Barclay St., and to Christopher St., New York. Barclay St. landing is near to the Barclay St. station on the Ninth Av. El. Ry., and to Park Place station on the Sixth Av. El. Ry.; it is five blocks from the Post Office, and seven blocks from the City Hall station of the Third Av. El. Ry. and the Brooklyn Bridge, and this ferry should be taken for Brooklyn, as there is no Annex boat from Hoboken. At Christopher St. is a station of the Ninth Av. El. Ry. and street-cars. The West Shore and the Ontario & Western R. Rs., and their western connections, come into a depot at Weehawken, north of Hoboken. A down-town ferry brings passengers to the foot of Franklin St., near Chambers (see Erie R. R. above); and an up-town ferry crosses directly to the foot of W. 42d St., whence cars transfer to all parts of the city. Check baggage to either ferry. Brooklyn passengers go by train to Jersey City, and take the Annex ferry.AN INTRODUCTION TO NEW YORK. 11 This finishes the list of stations on the New Jersey shore. At present there is only one passenger station on Manhattan Island. This is the Grand Central Depot, next to be mentioned. The New York Central & Hudson River R. R., the New York & Harlem R. R., and the New York, New Haven & Hartford R. R. unite their termini in the Grand Central Depot in E. 42d St. The new Grand Central Station is an immense six-storied building, reconstructed in 1898, which faces 42d St. across Fourth (Park) Av., and forms the most capacious and convenient railroad station in the country. Incoming trains deposit their passengers at the eastern side, where uniformed porters are at hand to assist passengers in carrying their luggage and reclaiming their baggage, which is stored in this part of the building until called for; no regular charge is made for these services. Baggage-express agencies and the office of the Cen- tral’s system of special cabs are in the building, and ordinary cabs and hotel coaches stand under cover at the side, under police surveillance. A stairway and elevators lead to the Third Av. El. Ry., which is the quickest way to Brooklyn. Surface cars pass the door, connecting directly or by transfer with all parts of the city. The new station is now complete, giving additional office room upstairs. The reconstruction of the public rooms on the ground floor has been completed on the following plan: The general waiting room of the station is a magnificent hall beneath a vast dome of steel and glass, entered from 42d St. The outgoing baggage room is at the western (Vanderbilt Av.) side. Ticket offices are arranged along the north side; outside there is a spacious entrance to the trains, which stand within a shed nearly 700 feet long, with a roof supported upon arches 200 feet in span. Every convenience and comfort known to travelers are provided, including spacious retiring rooms, with hos- pital accommodations, for women; a large smoking room for men; parcel rooms; telegraph, telephone, cab, and messenger offices; news stands, etc., besides a restaurant with prices not beyond the average purse. The system is so perfect and the management so strong at this great station that any confusion or difficulty is extremely rare, in spite of the crowds handled, aggregating 12,000,000 persons a year. Policemen and detectives are always present, and there is no safer place for man, woman, or child, stranger or citizen, in the city of New York, than the Grand Central Station. 212 handy Guide to new york city. The upper floors are filled with the head offices of the N. Y. Central R. R. and the New York offices of the New Haven R. R. The tunnel and approaches to the Grand. Central Depot consti- tute one of the most noteworthy pieces of engineering in the Eastern States. The three railroads above mentioned converge upon Fourth Av., just north of the Harlem, and cross that river upon a splendid four-track, steel swing-bridge, twenty-five feet above the water, so that its “draw” need not be opened for barges, etc. South of the Harlem the trains are carried upon a steel, four-track, elevated structure of remarkable solidity, high above the streets, and giving an airy and pleasing view of all the upper part of the city, as far as noth St., where a masonry viaduct, arched over the cross-streets, takes its place and carries the tracks upon a slightly descending grade to the northern entrance of the tunnel at 96th St. This tunnel con- sists of three longitudinal apartments, and conducts the four tracks to the Depot yard, at 50th St. The costly and admirable improve- ments outlined above were completed in 1897, and are highly advan- tageous from every point of view. A large station is provided at 125th St. for local traffic, and another at 138th St. Below the Grand Central Depot a tunnel, originally made for the tracks to the former down-town station, is now used by the Fourth Av. street cars. The middle of the street over these tunnels is planted in a continuous series of pretty parks, with a driveway on each side; this forms Park Av., one of the best of the residence streets. The Long Island R. R. discharges its passengers in Brooklyn at its station on Flatbush Av. (see Brooklyn); and at its station on East River, in Long Island City, whence ferries bring passengers to New York at James Slip (down-town, near Fulton St.), or at the foot of E. 34th St. From the latter landing surface cars run across town (through 23d and 42d Sts. and via Fourth Av. and W. 14th St.); and it is a branch station of both the Second and Third Av. El. Rys. The New York & Putnam R. R. (a division of the New York Cen- tral R. R.) runs northward through Westchester and Putnam counties to Brewster’s, where it joins the Harlem R. R., and connects with the New York & New England R. R. for Hartford and eastern points. Its station in New York is at'the 155th St. terminus of the Sixth Av. El. Ry.; but it has a station for the receipt and delivery of baggage in the El. Ry. station at Eighth Av. and 53d St. This road runs trains every few moments to High Bridge, Van Cortlandt Park, and the suburban stations on the branch to Yonkers, which constitutes the Yonker's Rapid Transit Line; and its tickets are good for passage either way on trains of the Hudson River R. R. between Yonkers and the Grand Central Depot. Hacks and Cabs.— Travelers often stop over in New York onAN INTRODUCTION TO NEW YORK. 13 through tickets from the South or West to New England, or vice versa. All such tickets contain a coupon, entitling the passenger to a ride in the coaches of the New York Transfer Company across the city, between the Grand Central Depot and any ferry station, or to any hotel or suitable stopping point between these points. These coaches meet all the great express trains, and may be taken advan- tage of as indicated above. Public carriages may be hired of the train-solicitors above mentioned at the following rates: Two-horse coaches, by the hour, $1.50 for the first hour or part, and 75 cents for each succeeding half-hour or part; by the mile, $1 for the first mile or part, and 40 cents for each succeeding half-mile or part. One- horse cabs, by the hour, $1 for the first, and 50 cents for each succeed- ing half-hour or part; by the mile, 50 cents for the first mile, and 25 cents for each succeeding half-mile. Lately the Pennsylvania and N. Y. Central railroads have each introduced a system of light cabs to carry passengers to and from their stations at the uniform rate of about 25 cents a mile, the former carrying two persons for one fare. Legal fares for public hacks, including electric motor-cabs, are as follows: Cabs—By the mile.—50 cts. for the first mile, and 25 cts. for each additional half-mile. For stops over five minutes and not exceeding fifteen, 25 cts. ;for longer stops, 25 cts. for each fifteen minutes. By the Hour.—With the privilege of going and stopping to suit yourself, $1 for the first hour, or part thereof, and 50 cts. for each additional half-hour. This tariff includes Hansom cabs. Coaches—By the 7nile.—One dollar for the first mile, or part thereof; and each additional half-mile or part thereof, 40 cts. By dis- tance for “stops” 38 cts. for each fifteen minutes. For brief stops not over five minutes, no charge. By the Hour.—$1.50 first hour or part thereof, and each succeeding half-hour or part thereof, 75 cts. From “line balls ” one or two passengers, to any point south of 59th St. $2; each additional passenger, 50 cts.; north of 59th St. each additional mile 50 cts. The legal fares are for one or two persons in a Cab, or for one, two, three, or four persons in a carriage; while children under 8 years are to be carried free when accompanied by adults.; It also includes the carrying of one piece of baggage; for all pieces over one a special bargain must be made. The fare everywhere on the trains of the elevated railroads and on all the surface cars is five cents without regard to distance. Baggage Express.— On all important incoming trains, a uniformed solicitor for either the N. Y. Transfer Co. or Westcott’s baggage delivery company passes through the train seeking orders. He will take your checks, giving a receipt therefor, and deliver your baggage to any part of New York, Brooklyn, or Jersey City. The payment may be made in advance or on receipt of the article at the house,14 HANDY GUIDE TC NEW YORK CITY. which will be in the course of two hours, ordinarily, if not earlier. In addition to these transfer companies, several other carriers have offices near the great stations and steamer-landings. These express- men usually charge the same rates as those above mentioned. Out side of these are a legion of small proprietors of “ expresses,” and individual owners of job-wagons, whose charge is only 25 cents a piece. They are honest, as a rule, but their responsibility should be inquired into before baggage is intrusted to them. Ordinary baggage may be taken with you if you employ a hack- man, and the delay, otherwise inevitable, will be avoided. The hotel omnibuses get baggage for their patrons very promptly also. For those who do not hire cabs or carriages, that American institution, the “ express delivery service,” is easily available here. Caution.— Never give up your checks to any one but a uniformed train-solicitor, or a regular office agent or porter of either the trans- portation company which holds the baggage or of the express com- pany to which you mean to intrust it; and always take a receipt; and*never give up your checks, if you claim your baggage yourself, to any person except the uniformed baggagemen of the railway or steamboat line by which you have traveled. If you expect to meet or visit friends in the city, wrho are residents, the best way probably is to keep your checks and let your friend manage the delivery of your baggage for you. Outgoing Baggage.— When you get ready to leave the city, an expressman will call at your house, and take and deliver your bag- gage at any station for from 25 to 40 cents a piece. Dodd’s and Westcott’s companies (both of which have many branch offices in New York and in all the adjoining cities) will check your baggage at the house to your destination in any part of the country, so that you need have no trouble with it at the railway station; but you must have bought your railway ticket in advance, and must pay 10 cents additional for the accommodation. Hotels. New York has always been proud of its hotels, which are almost numberless, and which year by year increase in excellence of service and splendor of appointments. They are scattered from the Battery to Harlem River, but few of prominence are farther than a square or two from Broadway or Fifth avenue, and all the foremost are between Madison Square and Central Park. Hotel list page 222.NEW YORK CLEARING HOUSE — Cedar Street, between Broadway and Nassau Street. Occupied by the New York Clearing House Association and the Chase National Bank. 15II. GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. In spite of the multitudinous surface-cars, elevated railways, sub- urban steam roads, bridges, steamboats and ferries, not to speak of carriages and cabs, New York finds herself continually in want of new methods of transit from one part of the city to the other, and to the neighboring cities. This is due not only to the enormously rapid growth of the city in population, but to the consequent spread of her purely commercial area, and the entailed necessity of living at a dis- tance from one’s place of business. Moreover the long and narrow shape of the island compels the great mass of travel to be back and forth in the same direction ; and morning and night all the public conveyances up and down town are over-crowded, so that more are earnestly needed. A few words in regard to the various ways of getting about the city will be appropriate. Elevated Railways. General Remarks.—The system of elevated railroads, which carry trains of cars drawn by steam locomotives, now consists of four main double-track lines, and a few short branches. All come together at the southern extremity of the island in a terminal station at South Ferry alongside the Battery. Two lines are on the West Side and two on the East, and all reach to the Harlem River, one (the “ Sub- urban”) continuing beyond,-through to Fordham. These trains run at intervals of two or three minutes (or even less, during the busiest hours of morning and evening) all the day and evening; and from midnight to sunrise the intervals between trains are not more than five minutes. Strangers should be careful to note the sign at the foot of the station-stairs which informs them whether that station is for “ up-town ” or “ down-town ” trains ; but if they forget and find themselves on the wrong side, they will be passed in free at the opposite station if they explain the case to the 16GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 17 gateman where the mistake is made. The fare on all roads and for all distances is 5 cents. A ticket must be bought and thrown into the gateman’s glass “ chopper” box at the entrance to the platform. On the West Side, certain trains going down-town take the Ninth Av. route, while others go via Sixth Av.; others proceed only as far as Cortlandt or Rector Streets, instead of going to the ferry. Up-town West Side trains go both to Harlem and 58th St. (Central Park). On the East Side, going down, some trains go to South Ferry and others to the City Hall; and up-town, both Second and Third Av. trains use the same track from the Battery to Chatham Sq., and must be distin- guished. The gatemen usually call out the destination of each train as it approaches, but anyone may quickly learn to recognize the signs on the locomotives, and the confusion is really not as great as it ap- pears to be. All of the roads are now consolidated and under the single ownership and management of the Manhattan Railway Co., whose general offices are at No. 71 Broadway. The busiest line is the Third Avenue ; the most comfortable and cleanest cars are those on the Sixth Avenue. Stations down town are at intervals of about five blocks; those up town, about half a mile apart. Any article lost or left in the cars or stations is taken to the “ Lost Property Office,” at 39 Greenwich St. (near the Battery), and can be reclaimed upon proof of ownership satisfactory to the clerks in charge. Free transfer is permitted at the Battery. The Ninth Avenue Line is the oldest, a part of it having been con- structed as early as 1870. It extends from the Battery up Greenwich St., passing Washington Market and overlooking much of the North River water-front, and has stations close to Liberty, Desbrosses, and Christopher St.' ferries. At West 14th St. it swings into Ninth Av., runs along it to 59th St. where it joins the Sixth Av. line. Its upper stations are at 14th, 23d, 34th, 42d, 50th and 59th streets. Sixth Avenue Line.—This is the main West Side line. From South Ferry it skirts Battery Park (q. v.) to Battery Place, which is the station for the Coney Island and other steamboats that sail from pier 1, N. R., and for the Washington Building, Produce Exchange, for- eign consulates, steamship offices, and lower Broadway generally. (See A Tour of the City.) The course is then up New Church St., a name derived from the fact that it passes directly in the rear of Trinity and St. Paul’s, over ground once owned by Trinity parish. Tenements on the left — among whose inhabitants is a colony of Arabs — and the rear of express offices and the large buildings onWashington Building. Produce Exchange. mml liijilif i piiJjlfM TnilUlm mmim HIllHjS miliiif llliiilj© Photo. Copyright by Irving Underhill. rj ........ 1 «. «n 18 battervBattery Park Building, PARK. 1920 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Broadway are seen. Rector St. is the station for Wall St., Trinity Church, the Equitable, Manhattan Life, and neighboring buildings. Trinity churchyard is next overlooked, and a glimpse of lower Broad- way obtained on the right. Cortlandt St. is the station for Jersey City and Communipaw ferries, for the Glen Island boats, Washing- ton Market, the Coal and Iron Exchange, Fulton St. and Maiden Lane; the W. U. Telegraph, Evening Post and Mail and Ex- press buildings, and St. Paul’s church. This street and the next (Dey) were named after owners of the properties through which they were laid out 125 years ago. St. Paul’s church and the graveyard in front of it (it is the rear of this church which abuts on Broadway) are seen on the right after leaving Cortlandt St.; and just beyond is the massive temple of St. Peter’s on the site of the oldest R. C. church in New York. Park Place, next stop, is the station "for Newspaper Sq., the SIXTH AV. EL. RY. AT IIOTH ST. Post Office, City Hall, Court House, and Brooklyn Bridge. The line now turns one block west through Murray St. (the sharpest curve in the world) to the 1 station at Chambers St., where you alight for the Fall River line and Pavonia (Erie R. R.) ferry. The streets from Fulton to Chambers on this west side of Broadway, were cut through “ the King’s Farm ” and named after prominent rectors and officers of Trinity parish, its owner, except Warren St., which commemorates Sir Peter Warren, commander of the British naval forces on this station after the Revolution, who married a daughter of the Delanceys here. The Cosmopolitan Hotel, and the lofty wholesale grocery warehouses, are concentrated in this neighborhood. The course is next up West Broadway through the wholesale grocery and dry goods district. Franklin, Grand, and Bleecker are the street stations, the last in the French quarter and close to Washington Sq. Turning west through Amity (W. 3d.) St., the line is carried over to the foot of Sixth Av., and its next station, at 8th St., is under the shadow of Jefferson Market and the clock-tower of the attached police court and prison. (See Courts, etc.) 14th St. is the next3122 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY\ station, with Macy’s famous bazaar, Union Square and the Four teenth Street Theater just at hand. Ladies crowd the platform here', and also at 18th St., which is near the busiest shopping districts of Sixth Av. and Broadway. At the 23d St. station are Ehrich’s store on Sixth Av., the Grand Opera House (2 blocks west) and the long line of West 23d St. shops and publishing houses. Proctor’s Theater, the Eden Musee, the Masonic Temple (the great gray building shadowing the station), and the hotels and theaters around Madi- son Sq., are a block’s distance. 28th St. is the station for the Fifth Avenue, Wallack’s, and Daly’s theaters, and other play-houses and hotels just above Madison Sq. The 33d St. station stands at the diagonal crossing of Broadway and permits a view down that street (to the right) as far as Grace Church (10th St.) and up to the yellow cube of the Metropolitan Opera House at 39th St. This is the station for 34th St.; for Knickerbocker, Herald Square, and Garrick thea- ters; for “ Murray Hill ” and “ upper ” Broadway; and for the shady “tenderloin” district west of Sixth Av. between 23d and 42d Sts. The open space here has been called Herald Square since the erection here, in 1893, of the beautiful and unique building of the Herald newspaper, which is probably the best appointed quarters of its kind in the country. A notable feature is the fact that its press- room in the basement on the Broadway side is. visible to the public through a long line of windows; and every evening the great Hoe web machines may be seen at their work by one who chooses to look. Sixth Av. above 34th St. is a long series of comparatively small stores and factories, over many of which are “ flats.” Bryant Park, named after the poet, containing a bronze bust of Washington Irving and a statue to Dr. Marion Simms, breaks the monotony at 40th St.; on the Fifth Av. side of this park the great New York Library is under con- struction, At the station at 42d St. passengers alight for the Grand Central Depot, two blocks mile) eastward, and for the surface cars co the Weehawken (West Shore R. R.) ferry, i}4 miles west. The Casino, the Metropolitan Opera House, the Broadway and Empire theaters, and the cluster of hotels around the crossing of Broadway and W. 42d St.; the principal clubs; the Fifth Avenue Baptist, Tem- ple Emanu-el, Heavenly Rest, Holy Trinity, and Divine Paternity churches on Fifth Av., are within easy walking distance. The 30th St. station is the one for the St. Marc and Buckingham hotels, Delmonico’s, Sherry’s, the Century Club. St. Thomas Episcopalian and the Collegiate church, the ,R. C. Cathedral, a,nd the Van-GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 23 derbilt houses — all on or near Fifth Av. Here passengers for Cen- tral Park change cars, unless they are on a Central Park train, which will carry them straight ahead to 58th St. and a Park entrance, with the Plaza (59th St. and Fifth Av.) one block east. The Harlem trains turn westward and pass through 53d St. (with a station at Eighth Av.) to Columbus Av., where the line again turns northward up Columbus Av. The station at ggth St. is close to Roosevelt Hospital. Soon after leaving it Broadway, now trend- ing northwestward toward its continuation in the Boulevard, is again crossed, and the armory of the 22d Reg’t is passed on the left at 67th St., while on the right glimpses are got of the Central Park, and of the tall apartment houses overlooking it, nearest and oldest of Which is the gable-roofed Dakota flats on Eighth Av. Several other magnificent hotels and apartment houses, such as the Majestic and he Hotel San Remo are near it. The j2d St. station is the place to alight for these hotels, and for a half-mile walk west to the lower end of Riverside Park; it is opposite an entrance to Central Park, and in a district of very handsome residences, where General Sher- man lived and many distinguished citizens now dwell. Just before reaching the 81 st St. station the American Museum of Natural History and another Park entrance (see Parks) are passed. The castle-like structure far off at the right is the “ Belvedere” on an eminence in Central Park; and at the left spaces of the Hudson appear, dotted with shipping. The stations at gjd St. and 104th St. are surrounded by costly and often elegant houses, all built within a very few years, save here and there a conspicuous relic of the rural past; and by lofty apartment houses which it will interest a visitor to see. The track is here at a considerable height above the pavement, but at noth St. it turns eastward to Eighth Av. and then turns up that avenue upon an iron trestle-work which is said to have amazed Count De Lesseps as an example of audacious engineering. The ground is low here, and the track is carried across it on a level with the fifth-story windows of the houses. This makes necessary an ele- vator to reach the station platform at 116th St. A wide area of the city (Harlem) is now under view toward the east and north, and the upper end of Central Park appears as a green grove a short distance away on the right. On the left are the ornamental stairways of Morningside Park, and above it the beginnings of St. John's Cathe- dral, the white St. Luke’s Hospital, and Columbia University. A few blocks beyond, St. Nicholas Av., the ancient country road toH HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. King’s Bridge and Albany, is crossed diagonally, the density of the population increases, and the next stop is in a lofty station at Harlem (IV. 125th St.), where the busy appearance of a down-town avenue meets the eye. Change here for the surface road to Riverside Park, Ft. Lee Ferry, and High Bridge. Rocky ridges, market gardens, and remnants of shanty-town diversify the dead level and uniformity of graded streets beyond, especially at the left, where the ground rises into a long ridge called Washington Heights, which is an exceedingly handsome part of the city. Near 135th St. station is the great R. C. Convent of the Sacred Heart. The engine-houses and shops of the company are at the 145th St. or Carmansville station; and half a mile beyond it the terminus is reached at 155th St. Here is the Har- lem River, and the great iron viaduct overhead, which continues W. 155th St. by an easy slope from Washington Heights down to the new McComb’s Dam bridge, which forms the great driveway to King’s Bridge Road and the north. This viaduct overlooks the Polo Grounds and the “ Speedway ” on the river side. This station is the terminus of the New York & Putnam R. R. which goes northward into Putnam County; by it are reached (within the city limits) High Bridge, Berkeley Oval (athletic grounds), Morris Heights, Fordham Heights, Kingsbridgeville, and Van Cortlandt — the last named the station for the great Van Cortlandt Park and Lake, where the best skating in this part of the State is obtainable, whenever there is ice anywhere. Trains run every few minutes, especially on Sunday, and some connect through into New England. A branch, diverging at Van Cortlandt Park, forms a rapid transit line to Yonkers. As this road is owned by the New York Central Company, tickets to and from Yonkers are good on the Hud- son River R. R. to the Grand Central Depot, and vice versa. The through time from South Ferry to Central Park by the Sixth Av. line, is 28 minutes; to 155th St., one hour. The Third Avenue Line runs from South Ferry along Water St. to Jeanette Park, where fruit vessels and canal-boats are numerous, and where a broad expanse of the busy East River and the front of Brook- lyn are overlooked. It then turns in among the shipping offices, drug and tobacco houses and factories of Pearl St., among which still stands at Broad and Pearl, the Fraunces Tavern, where Washington took leave of his officers in December, 1783, and makes its first stop at Hanover Square, the station for Wall St., the Custom House (the back corner of which is seen up a narrow street at the left) and theGETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 25 Commercial exchanges generally. Winding on through narrow Pearl St., Fulton St. is next reached, close to Fulton Ferry and Market; the ingenuity with which a portion of the old United States Hotel has been converted into entrances and station rooms, securing a platform in the narrow street is worth attention. At Franklin Square, the next station, you are right under the approach to the Brooklyn Bridge. THE BOWERY—From Grand Street Elevated Station. From Franklin Sq. up the New Bowery the train passes through the rough region of the Fourth Ward. On the right are seen the remnant of an old Jewish Cemetery, where Joe Jefferson played as a boy (see his “Autobiography”), many queer old streets, full of Irish tenements, which a century and less ago were the abode of gentility, and picturesque views of the Brooklyn Bridge. Chatham Square is a crowded, noisy spot, surrounded by streets full of factories and20 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. tenement houses filled with foreign laborers. The Five Points and Chinese quarter are only a block or two west, Park Row leads south to the City Hall, and the Bowery begins here. It is northward, up the Bowery, that the Third Av. line proceeds. The pillared front of the Old Bowery Theater (now the “ Thalia ”) is passed immediately upon the left near Canal St. station. Then comes an almost con- tinuous row of theaters, dime museums, cheap lodging-houses, and numberless small shops, while the din of the traffic is tremendous. At G?rand St. station, the principal shopping street of the East Side is crossed, and the horse-cars to the Williamsburg (Brooklyn, E. D.) ferry. Houston St. is the next station, and the one for Police Headquarters, for street-cars westward to North River ferries, and eastward into the heart of the great East Side tenement and small factories district, the home of the German, Jewish, Russian, and Bohemian population of wage-workers. • Before reaching the next station {Ninth St.) the Cooper Union appears ahead as a tall brown building looking down the Bowery. Fourth Av. diverges on the left side of it, and on this side the train enters Third Av. by a slight curve. Ninth St. is the station for the Bible House, Cooper Union, and Astor and Mercantile libraries; Lafayette Place, the mercantile district of Broadway, John Wanamaker’s, and Daniell’s stores, St. Mark’s^church, the Baptist Tabernacle, and lower Second Av. It stands on ground which was once a part of old Stuyvesant’s farm. The 14th St. station is close by Union Sq., the Academy of Music, the Irving Place, and Tony Pastor’s theaters, Tammany Hall, and Stuyvesant Sq. At 18th St. is a station and another at 23d St., the latter convenient to the Y. M. C. A., United Charities, Lyceum, Metropolitan Life building, Dr. Parkhurst’s church, and Madison Sq. Near the 28th St. station are St. Stephen's R. C., and the Rose Hill M. E. churches — the latter recalling the fact that this region was once the fine Rose Hill farm of Maj.-Gen. Gates. 34th St. is the station for the Long Island R. R., and a branch road (no extra charge) leads down to the ferry. At 42d St., the next station, another branch (no charge) leads to the Grand Central Depot. The next stop is at 33d St. (ferry to Blackwell’s Island). The 3gth St. station is unimportant, but at 67th St. alight for the Presbyterian Hospital and Lenox Library, the Normal College, and the Central Park menagerie. The 76th St. station has near it many charitable institutions; and the next station, 84th St., is the one for the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Obelisk (see Central Park).GETTING ABO NT THE CITY. 27 The whole remaining course up Third Av. calls for little remark. The street is the old Boston road, made straight and populous. For the whole of its six miles it is solidly built up with a continuous line of retail shops, restaurants, etc., over which are lofty tenements inhabited by well-to-do and respectable people, largely of the German nationality. Along Third Av., the Bowery, Park Row, and Broad- way a continuous line of business runs from Harlem River to the Battery, a distance, thus measured, of nearly ten miles; yet this is only one of the great city’s streets. The stations at 8gth St.,g8th St. (ferry to North Beach and College Point), 106th St., and 116th St. are in “ Harlem,” whose main east and west thoroughfare is reached at 125th St., where electic cars may be taken westward to the Sixth Av. El. Ry., and on to Washington Heights. The line con- tinues, however, to the bank of the Harlem at i2gth St., where pas- sengers going farther north change to the suburban branch (no extra fare). The Second Avenue Line does not need much description. It begins at Chatham Square, and passes thence northwmrd through Division, Allen, and First and Second Avs. to the Harlem River, where it connects with the terminus of the suburban road spoken of above. It goes at first through the heart of the densely populated Jewish, Russian, and German quarters, and gives an interesting out- side view of their existence in the tall and crowded tenements of the region between Chatham Square and East 14th St. Its stations are, successively, Chatham Square, Canal St., Grand St. (near Essex Market and Police Court), Rivington St. (near Allen St. M. E. church), 1st St., 8th St., 14th St., igth St., 23d St. (where the road turns from First into Second Av., and which is the station for Belle- vue Hospital, and the ferry to Blackwell’s, Ward’s, and Randall’s islands), 34th St. (Long Island R. R. and Manhattan Beach), 42d St., 50th St., 57th St., 65th St., 80th St., 86th St., g2d St. (Astoria ferry), 105th St., mth St., 117th St., 121st St., 125th St., and the Harlem River terminus. Second Av., as a street, is similar to Third Av., except that it is much less devoted to business, and in its upper part is less solidly built up, and has many large fac- tories, gas works, etc., along it near the river. From the cars of this line a good view of Hell Gate and the East River generally is obtained, and of the islands, with their penitentiaries and charitable institutions. The time between Chatham Sq. and Harlem is about 35 minutes. 328 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY, City Hall Branch.— It only remains to mention that an elevated Ry. station stands at the New York terminus of the Brooklyn Bridge, beside the City Hall, and near to the Post Office. Alternate trains on the Third Av. go thither without change; from the Second Av. line change at Chatham Sq. Trains outward from the City Hall go up Third Av. and change at Chatham Sq. for the Second Av. line. There is direct communication between the platforms of the El. Ry. at this station and that of the Bridge cars. Surface-Car Routes. Tramways, or “ street-cars,” as they are universally known in this city, are a very old institution in New York, and seem to do quite as large a business as they did before the elevated roads were built. Recent consolidations have grouped all the lines under the Metro- politan (Broadway) company. Transfer tickets to connecting and inter- secting lines are given, and it is possible for one to reach almost any point on the island of Manhattan for a single fare. As a rule the con- ductor gives the passenger a transfer check on request, but along Broadway these checks are obtained from a transfer-agent on the side- walk at exchanging points, as Houston, Astor Place, 34th St., etc. A short explanation will suffice to aid strangers in learning the general course of street-car traffic, which is rapidly changing from the anti- quated horse-car system, and from the newer cable method, to the under trolley system, by which the car-motor receives its power from an electric wire laid in a trench beneath and between the rails, by means of a trolley projecting from the bottom of the car and sliding along a continuous slot. The dangerous and cumbersome overhead trolley wires have never been allowed on Manhattan Island. Lines of cars run north and south between the Battery or City Hall and the upper part of the island on every avenue except Fifth, and most of them extend to the Harlem River. The Belt line follows the water-front on both sides as far north as 59th St., where it crosses the city. The Second, Thirds and Fourth Avenue lines go up the Bowery from the City Hall as far as the Cooper Union, and there diverge to their respective avenues. The last named follows Fourth Av. to 44th St. and thence follows Madison Av. to Harlem. Care should be taken on the Second and Fourth Av. lines, coming downGETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 29 town, to learn whether the car goes farther than Astor Place, where a transfer will, however, be given south on Broadway. The Broad- way line runs along Broadway and Seventh Av. (above 44th St.) between the Battery (South Perries) and 59th St. (Central Park). The Columbus Av. cars follow the same course as far as 53d St., where they turn west to Columbus (Ninth) Av., and thence go north to noth St., where passengers are transferred to the Lenox A v. line or East River lines. The Lexington Av. line follows Broadway from the Battery to 23d St. and then turns east to Lexington Av. and pursues that avenue to the Harlem River. Lines run from the Post Office to and along Sixth, Seventh, Eighth, Ninth and Tenth Avs.y and their cars continue along or connect with the Columbus Av., Amster- dam Av., or Boulevard lines, which run north over Morningside Heights to 125th St. Another line, from 125th St., extends up Am- sterdam Av. to Fort George. Cross-Town Lines reach from river to river at intervals of half a mile (or less, down town), connecting all ferries, steamship landings, railway stations, and hotels with one another, either directly or by exchanging transfers with north and south routes. Brooklyn Street and Elevated Cars of almost all lines may be boarded at the New York entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge. Lines North of Harlem River.—The rapid occupation of the terri- tory north of the Harlem River, successively enlarged by recent annexations to the present distant boundaries of Greater New York, has been accompanied and aided by a rapid extension of electric trolley lines, which now make all its parts accessible. These converge upon two points of contact with the city below the Harlem, viz.: Harlem Bridge (at Third Av.) and Central Bridge. All these lines as well as the line terminating at 135th St. and 8th Av., interchange transfers at all junction points. The principal lines are as follows: Southern Boulevard West Farms.—East from Harlem Bridge, through Morrisania, along the Southern Boulevard to Crotona Park, West Farms, and Bronx Park. Westchester Mount Vernon Line.—Along Third Av. from Harlem Bridge to Boston Road, out Boston Road past West Farms (branch to old Westchester Village), then north, east of Bronx Park, through Bronxdale, Williamsbridge, Wakefield, and Washingtonville, to Mt. Vernon and connections beyond, to Yonkers, White Plains, Tarrytown, Eastchester and New Rochelle. Fordham Line.—Out Third Av., past Crotona Park to Fordham, then north on Webster Av. to Bedford Park and Woodlawn.30 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. To High Bridge, etc.—North from Harlem Bridge along Willis Av. to 161st St., west to Sedgwick Av., and north to High Bridge. This road is striving to continue its line up the elevated eastern bank of the Harlem to Kingsbridge, where a line is already laid. Fifth Avenue Stages.—Capacious carriages traveling along Fifth Av. between Washington Sq. and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 81st St. Fare 5 cents; exchange transfers with cross-town cars at 14th and 42d Sts. In summer many stages have seats on the roof; but a more comfortable seat is that on the ordinary stages beside or behind the driver. These are being replaced by automobile vehicles. Ferries. An alphabetical list of the ferries by which Manhattan is connected with the surrounding shores is as follows: To Astoria.— From E. g2d St., every 15 minutes. Atlantic Av. Ferry.— See Brooklyn, 3. Barclay St. Ferry.— See Hoboken, 1. To Bay Ridge and Coney Island routes.—From the Battery half- h°To^Bedloe's Island (Statue of Liberty).— From the Battery, hourly to 7.30 p. m. . M To Blackwell's Island.— Foot of E. 26th St., twice daily. To College Point.— From E. 99th St., hourly during daylight, call- ing at North Beach. To Brooklyn.— As follows: (See Map.) 1. To 39th St., South Brooklyn, from the Battery. 2. To Hamilton Av., from the Battery. 3. To Atlantic Av., from the Battery. 4. To Montague St. from Wall St. (does not run evenings or Sundays). 5. To Fulton St. from Fulton St. 6. To Bridge St. from James St. 7. To Main St., from Catherine St. 8. To Broadway, E. D., from Roosevelt St. 9. To Broadway, E. D., from Grand St, and from E. 42d St. 10. To Grand St., E. D., from Grand St. 11. To Grand St., E. D., from Houston St. 12. To Greenpoint (Brooklyn, E. D.) from E. ioth St. 13. To Broadway, E. D., from E. 23d St. 14. To Greenpoint, E. D., from E. 23d St. Catherine Ferry.— See Brooklyn, 7. Christopher St. Ferry— See Hoboken, 2. Communipaw Ferry.— See Jersey City, 1. Cortlandt Sc. Ferry.— See Jersey City , 2. Desbrosses St. Ferry.— See Jersey City, 4. To Elysian Fields.— See Hoboken, 3.GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 31 To Fort Lee.—From W. 129th St., half-hourly via Undercliff. Fourteenth St. Ferry.— See Hoboken, 3. Franklin St. Ferry.— See Weehawken, 1. Fulton Ferry.-—See Brooklyn, 5. To Governor's Island.— From the Battery, hourly. Grand St. Ferry.— See Brooklyn, 9 and 10. To Greenpoint.— See Brooklyn, 12 and 14. Hamilton Ferry.— See Brooklyn, 2. To Hoboken.— As follows: 1. To First St. (D., L. & W. R. R.) from Barclay St. 2. To the same point, from Christopher St. 3. To 14th St. (Elysian Fields), from 14th St. To Hunter's Point (Long Island R. R.).—See Long Island City. To Jersey City.—As follows: (See Map.) 1. To Communipaw (Central R. R. of N. J.), from Liberty St. 2. To Montgomery St. (Pennsylvania R. R.) from Cortlandt St. 3. To the same point, from Desbrosses St. 4. To the same point, from W. 23a St. 5. To Pavonia Av. (“ Erie ” R. R.), from Chambers St. 6. To Bay St., from W. 13th St. 7. To Pavonia Av. (“ Erie ” R. R.), from W. 23d St. To Long Island City.—As follows: 1. To Hunter’s Point (Long Island R. R.), from James Slip. 2. To the same point, from E. 34th St. To North (or Bowery) Beach.— See College Point. Pavonia Ferry.— See Jersey City, 4 and 6. Roosevelt Ferry.— See Brooklyn, 8. To South Brooklyn.— See Brooklyn, 1 and 2. To Staten Island.— To St. George’s (S. I. Rapid Transit R. R.), from the Battery, half-hourly to midnight. Twenty-third St.—See Brooklyn,13 and 14, and Jersey City,5 and 7. Wall St Ferry.— See Brooklyn, 4. To Weehawken: 1. To West Shore R. R. station, from Franklin St. 2. To North Weehawken, from W. 42d St. 3. To West Shore R. R. station, from W. 42dSt. Butcher’s Boston T> t /s the best finish made for FLOORS, * Ull^ll Interior Woodwork. and Furniture Not brittle; will neither scratch nor deface like shellac or varnish. Is not soft and sticky like beeswax. Perfectly transparent, pre- serving the natural color and beauty of the wood. Without doubt the most economical and satisfactory POLISH known for Hard- wood Floors. For sale by dealers in Painters’ Supplies, House Furnishing' and Department Stores. Send for our FREE BOOKLET telling of the many advantages of BUTCHER’S BOSTON POLISH. The Butcher Polish Co., 356 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass,32 Promenade. THE BROOKLYN BRIDGE.GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 33 The Brooklyn and other Bridges. The Original Brooklyn Bridge.—This magnificent bridge spans the East River and connects New York and Brooklyn. Its terminus in New York is opposite City Hall Park, and directly reached by the City Hall branch of the Third Av. El. Ry., and by all the surface cars that go to the Post Office. Park Place is the nearest station on the Sixth Av. El. Ry. The terminus in Brooklyn is in the new plaza at Fulton and Sand Sts., where all the elevated railways of that city have their termini in a covered union station, and can be reached without descending to the ground, and where the cars of nearly every surface line are within a few steps. The bridge carries two drives, a broad, free footwalk, a double-track cable railroad, and an electric loop-line. The walk across is delightful, and seats are scattered along the broad “ promenade,” and in the balconies about the towers, where one may rest and enjoy the view. Bridge Cars.—The bridge cable railroad carried the larger number of persons who crossed the bridge until lately. The cars run in trains of three at intervals of a minute or less during the busiest hours, and cross in six minutes. The fare is 3 cents, two tickets for 5 cents. Since the summer of 1898, the trains of the Brooklyn elevated rail- ways have run to the Manhattan end of the bridge, where the plat- forms were enlarged and rearranged to accommodate the traffic. Among these elevated trains some are run through at short intervals in summer to Rockaway Beach over the Fulton St. line, and others to Coney Island over the Fifth Av. line. The car platforms at both ends are directly accessible from the stations of the elevated railways, and policemen are numerous and attentive. Trolley Cars began early in 1898 to run from Brooklyn to the Manhattan end of the bridge, where they pass around loops and return to Brooklyn, where each is shunted to its own line. No extra fare is required on the bridge; the tracks are laid, one on each road- way; and all the Brooklyn lines make equal use of the privilege. How the Bridge was built.— It was foreseen, many years ago, that the ferriage facilities between New York and Brooklyn were fast becoming inadequate to the rapidly growing needs of these two great cities. Not only would it be difficult to keep pace, by increase of ferries, with the advancing requirements, but the choking crowd of commerce could not find room for many more big boats in East River, and delays occurred even in fine weather, while a heavy storm, or a fog, would almost stop transportation. The need of a bridge was34 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. imperative. Much public discussion resulted in the making of accept- able plans and estimates, and the authority from the State to issue bonds of the twin cities to provide the money. In 1870 work was begun. The first thing was to make foundations by sinking caissons of timber down to solid resting-place, 78 ft. below the water level on the New York side, and 45 ft. in Brooklyn. As fast as they sank, by the digging away of the ground beneath them, masonry was laid course by course; and when hard-pan was reached, the hollow beneath the caisson was filled with concrete. The lower part of the towers (which are 140x50 ft. on the ground), is solid, then they are hollow up to the base of the great arches, 119 ft, high; the arches rise 117 ft. higher, and the cap-stones are 271 ft. above the water. Meanwhile the massive masonry anchorages, 127 ft. high and 119 ft. wide, con- taining the arrangement of iron bars to which the ends of the cables are fastened, were prepared, 930 ft. behind each tower. It is the weight and holding power of these anchorages that sustain the bridge, the towers really doing little more service than to elevate it at a sufficient height. The next step was to erect the four cables. To make them below and hoist them into place was deemed impracti- cable. They were made where they are. Two steel wire ropes, travelling over large pulleys, were stretched between the tops of the towers. By means of these, a few other small and fixed cables were stretched, movable platforms were hung, and a foot-bridge was laid, upon which the workmen, and sometimes a favored visitor, could cross. The present writer was among those who made this nerve- testing trip. Then all was ready to begin the cables. Seven years had passed, and it was not until June 11, 1877, that this work began. The cables are not twisted like ropes, but consist of 5,434 separate galvanized steel wires (12 ft. to the pound), which were drawn over, two at a time, and laid side by side as true to the proper curve of the intended cable as possible. The “ weaving” progressed steadily, and on Oct. 5, 1878, the last wire was drawn across. Then, by a careful and ingenious method, these wires were forced into a close and even round bundle, and closely wound with other wire, like the thread on a spool. Each finished cable is 3,57834 ft. long, 15finches in diameter, and able to bear 12,200 tons in the middle of the sag. The floor beams were next suspended by steel cables from collars clasping the cables at certain intervals, ana when these had been thoroughly tied together and braced, the suspension part of the structure was complete and ready for the final arrange- ment of roadways, railings, tracks, etc. The approaches to the bridge are massive arches of masonry, with here and. there steel truss-bridges spanning the streets. The total length is 1.^ miles; the length between the towers 1,595 ft.; the width, 85 ft.; the height above the water, in the center, 135 ft.; and the variation, due to extremes of temperature, amounts to 3 ft., vertical, at the center. Thirteen years of time, and about $16,000,000 were expended in the undertaking. The inventor and engineer in charge was John A. Roebling: but he died during the progress of the work, which was35THE WASHINGTON BRIDGE—Across Harlem River, from One Hundred and Eighty-first Street and Tenth Avenue to Aqueduct Avenue.GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 37 completed by his wife and son, Col. Washington Roebling, and opened to the public Sept. 24, 1883. New East River Bridge.—Another suspension bridge is under con- struction, crossing the East River from the foot of Broome St., Man- hattan, to Broadway, Brooklyn, the terminals extending half a mile inland on each side of the river. The two supporting towers are 1,600 feet apart. They are, above the water line, made of open work steel, and, from a short distance, look fragile, but in each of them is 6,000,000 pounds of steel, and their foundations and the anchorages of the cables are of the utmost solidity and safety. The engineering dif- ficulties overcome in laying the foundations of the two towers were amongst the most interesting that ever puzzled science. Now that it is nearing completion it is hard to grasp the enormous mass of material which has been welded into the service of this graceful, web-like aerial structure. Harlem Bridges.— Several large bridges cross the Harlem. There is a railway bridge at Second Av., and at Third Av. is an iron draw-bridge for general traffic, known as Harlem Bridge. At Fourth Av. is the great draw-bridge which brings all the railways centering in the Grand Central Depot. At Madison Av. a new bridge spans the river to Mott Haven. Next comes the new Central Bridge, formerly known as McComb’s Dam Bridge. Just above it is the railway bridge for trains of the New York & Putnam R. R. High Bridge is above these, and is a conspicuous and beautiful object. It was built to carry the Croton aqueduct across the Harlem valley at 175th St. It is 1,460 ft. long, and is supported by 13 arches resting on solid granite piers, the crown of the highest arch being 116 ft. above the river sur- face. The water is carried over the bridge in large cast-iron pipes protected by brick masonry. A wide footpath enables visitors to walk across it and view the fine prospect from its top. A small park has been made at its southern end, and picnic grounds, boating houses, hotels, and beer gardens are numerous at both ends. It is consequently a great resort for out-door parties in warm weather. Water Supply.— New York gets its water supply mainly from the Croton River and a group of lakes, some 40 miles northward. It is brought by the Croton aqueduct — conduit of brick and stone com- pleted in 1842, and able to deliver 96,000,000 gallons a day. From the Bronx River is derived 16,000,000 gallons a day more. The Cro- ton aqueduct crosses the Harlem upon the viaduct known as High38 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Bridge (hereafter described). In Central Park, four miles below High Bridge, is the retaining reservoir, capable of holding 1,030,000,- 000 gallons, and just below this is the receiving reservoir, which holds 150.000. 000 gallons more. A new reservoir of immense capacity is in course of erection on the site of the old race track at Jerome Park. Besides these there is a “high service” reservoir, holding 11.000. 000 gallons, at High Bridge, and another at Ninth Av. and 97th St. The iron mains distributing the water under the principal streets aggregate about 660 miles in length, which feed 8,420 fire hy- drants in addition to the private supply pipes. For several years a new aqueduct has been building to increase the supply. This source is the same Croton watershed, but new retaining reservoirs have been, or remain to be, built to store so much of the 400,000,000 gallons of water, now running to waste, as may be desirable. This new aque- duct, which has cost $25,000,000, and. embodies the best principles of construction, became available before the close of 1890. It is a tunnel, 14 feet in diameter and over 30 miles in length, carried through solid rock, at an average depth of 500 ft. below the surface. It leads, like the others, to the reservoir in Central Park, and will be distributed by the present system of pipes. Its ultimate capacity, when the sys- tem of storage reservoirs has been completed, will be 300,000,000 of gallons daily, and enough water will come through at the first open- ing to satisfy all demands for some years to come, and to restore the proper degree of pressure. It is probable that no great city in the world uses so much water per capita as does New York. Croton water is as pure and wholesome as could be desired, and no one need hesitate to drink it freely. The income of the city for water service now exceeds $2,550,000 a year. A short distance above it another remarkable structure, called the Harlem River or Washington Bridge, spans the stream. It is 2,400 ft. long, and 80 ft. wide, built of steel, iron, and stone. The two central arches are each 510 ft. span, and 135 ft. above high-water mark, and are notable examples of a new device in engineering wherein sections of steel were combined and keyed into the arches in the same manner as stone arches are built. Its total cost was nearly $2,700,000, and it was opened to travel in 1889. The New York end is at Tenth Av. and 181st St., and is reached by the cable road from 125th St. King’s Bridge is at the point where the waters of the Plarlem River and Spuyten Duyvil Creek meet. This was the scene of hard fighting in the Revolutionary War, and all the region round about is of historic as well as picturesque interest. Rapid Transit Railroad.—The many excavations and closed streets in New York will have made the most casual observer know of this great municipal undertaking, in which the city has invested $35,000,- 000. It was begun in 1900 and is to be in operation in the spring ofRAPID TRANSIT TUNNEL STATION 3940 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. 1904. The main line will extend from City Hall to Spuyten Duyvil Creek, 230th St., and the East Side line to Bronx Park. Branches and other divisions are in contemplation, or already authorized, including tunnel connection with Brooklyn. When this great work has been completed it will relieve the traffic, now often congested, and undoubt- edly be of immense public benefit, though the “ seven-league boots” in which the city makes its strides seems to defy the march of conve- niences. Other notable railroad undertakings within the city are those of connecting the Long Island Railroad system to Manhattan by a tunnel extending to Herald Square, and a similar proposal of the Penn. R. R. to tunnel the North River and reach Manhattan at Herald Square. Post Office and Postal Facilities. The General Post Office is at the junction of Broadway and Park Row, next the City Hall, and is reached from up town by all the north and south surface railways, and by the Third Av. El. Ry. to City Hall station, or by the Sixth Av. line to Park Place. The “gen- eral delivery” (ftoste rest ante) windows are near the front door; the stamp selling windows on the Broadway side. Letters can be asked for and stamps bought all night as well as during the day, except on Sunday. The money-order, registered-letter, and other special offices are upstairs, and are open from 9 to 5. The pneumatic dis- patch is in the basement. The top stories contain Federal Courts, etc. A Public Gallery is reached by ascending the stairway at the right of the front entrance and turning to the right on the Mezzanine floor. From this gallery all the interesting operations of sorting the mail, both for the railways and for city delivery, may be seen. The site of this huge building (which is a conspicuous example of the unlovely structures erected for the government when Mr. Mullet was supervising architect) was formerly the southern point of City Hall Park. The structure is five stories high above the sidewalk— one story being in the Mansard roof — besides a basement. Branch Post Offices.— General details in regard to post-office man- agement and the handling of mails have no place here, but a few facts may be useful to the stranger as to the branch post offices, called Stations. These branches are scattered all over the city, and form the local centers for collection and distribution of mail by the carriers. QThey are open until 8 p. m. on week days, and from 8 to to a. m. on Sundays. Stamps, money orders, postal notes and registered letters may be bought there, but no letters are given toPost Office. PARK ROW—Looking north from Broadway and Vesey Street 4142 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. callers at these stations, any letter addressed to a station being delivered to the address by the carrier, or, if this is not known, re- turned to the General Post Office to be advertised, etc. For any questions as to the delivery of your mail by the carrier, go to the station in whose district you live. Following is a list of branch offices: Madison Square, Madison Av. and 23d. St., entrance on 23d St. A, 136 and 138 Greene St. B, 380 Grand St., between Norfolk and Suffolk Sts. C, Cor. Hudson and Bethune Sts. D, Third Av., between 8th and 9th Sts. A, No. no W. 32d St. A, 401 Third Av., bet. 28th and 29th Sts. G, Broadway and 51st St. H, Lexington Av. and 44th St. (Second-class matter received.) /, Columbus Av., cor. 105th St. /, 2309 Eighth Av., cor. 124th St. A, 203 E. 86th St., near Third Av. A, 141 E. 125th St. M, Amsterdam Av., near 157th St. N, Cor. Broadway and 69th St. O, 122 Fifth Av. (Second-class matter received.) A, Stone St., cor. Produce Exchange. R, Morrisania, Third Av. and 150th St. 5, Broadway, cor. Howard St T, 3319 Third Av. Cl, Third Av., cor. 103d St. A, Wool Exchange, West Broadway and Canal St. W, 498 Columbus Av., cor. 84th St. F, 1160 Third Av., near 68th St. Foreign Branch, West St., near Morton St. City Island. High Bridge, Sedgewick Av., near Depot Place. Kingsbridge. University Heights. Bedford Park. ' In addition to this, some fifty sub-stations have lately been estab- lished—principally in drug stores. These are primarily for the sale of stamps, the registering of letters, and the sale of money orders, but there are also collection boxes at each sub-station. By means of all these aids to rapid circulation of mail, letters will be delivered in any part of the city within two or three hours of mail- ing at the utmost, and if addressed to a point within the same dis- trict where mailed, in a much shorter time. The letter rate to any part of the city is 2 cents an ounce. Delivery by carrier, to specified house and number, or where the address is known to, or can be obtained by, the post office authoritiesGETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 43 is made throughout all parts of the city, at intervals, in the more densely populated quarters, of only an hour or two, from morning until 8 or g p. m. The carriers also deliver registered letters and parcels; or these can be obtained at the General Post Office, where the delivery hours are from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m.; and the receiving hours (also at the stations), are from 8 a. m. to 6.30 p. m. Collections are made from the lamp-post boxes, and the boxes in hotels and large buildings, at intervals of an hour or two (even oftener down town), all day and at midnight; on Sunday a collection is made in the afternoon, and again at midnight. A “Post Office Guide” is pub- lished, which gives full information as to foreign and other mails. Letters addressed to persons who cannot be found are advertised in some of the daily papers after being held one month. They are then delivered at the General Post Office to the persons to whom they are addressed on payment of a fee of 1 cent. Letters indefinitely directed are placed on general delivery to await calls. Telegraphs, Telephones and Messenger Service. Telegraphs.—All the land telegraph and ocean cable companies have their offices and many branch stations in New York. The Western Union Headquarters is in the huge building at the corner of Broadway and Dey St., just below the Post Office. At Fifth Av. and 23d St., and at 16 Broad St., are the principal branch offices, con- nected with the central office at Dey St. by pneumatic tubes; others are scattered everywhere, in hotels, ferry stations, great stores, etc. The Postal Telegraph and Commercial Cable Companies have their central office and main operating room in their new building at Broadway and Murray St., and many branches throughout the city. The new building is fourteen stories in height, exclusive of basement, and has a frontage of 70 feet on Broadway, and 156 feet on Murray St. The first four stories are Indiana limestone, and the upper por- tion of the building is light-gray brick, with terra cotta trimmings. The American District and the Mutual District Telegraph Companies have offices scattered all over town, generally in conjunc- tion with the Western Union offices, where uniformed messengers are on hand to deliver telegrams, answer calls, and perform every variety of service for which a boy is capable. The charge is regulated by a tariff, printed in a book carried by the boys, and it is well to learn in advance what will be the charge for the service you wish done. 444 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. These boys are faithful in their work, but many of them will over- charge a customer if they can. Prominent Business Buildings are named and situated as follows: Aldrich Court, 45 Broadway. American Surety Co., 100 Broadway. American Tract Society, 150 Nassau St. Bennett, 93-99 Nassau St. Boreel, 113-1x9 Broadway. Bowling Green, u Broadway. Broad Exchange, 25 Broad St. Cable (Met. St. Ry. Co.), 621 Broadway. Church Mission House, 281 Fourth Av. Clearing House, Cedar St. near Broad- way. Clinton Hall, 15 Astor Place. Coal & Iron Exch., 21 Cortlandt St. Columbia, 29 Broadway. Commercial Exchange, 699 Broadway. Constable, in Fifth Av. Delaware, Lackawanna & Western Railroad, 26 Exchange Place. Drexel, 1-9 Broad St. Edison, 44 Broad St. Empire, Broadway and Rector St. Equitable, 120 Broadway. Havemeyer, cor. Church and Cort- landt Sts. Lawyers’ Title Ins. Co., 37 Liberty St. Mail and Express, 203 Broadway. Manhattan Life, 64-68 Broadway. Manhattan Trust Company, Wall and Nassau Sts. Mills, n-23 Broad St. Mohawk, 160 Fifth Av. Mutual Life Ins. Co., 28-40 Nassau St. Nat. Bk. of Commerce, 27-31 Nassau St. Nat. Shoe & Leather Bank, 271 Broad- way. New York Life Ins. Co., 346 Broadway. Park Row, 12-21 Park Row. Postal Telegraph, 253 Broadway. Potter, 35-38 Park Row. Presbyterian; 154-158 Fifth Av. Pulitzer, 61 Park Row. St. Paul, 220 Broadway. Schermerhorn, 96 Broadway. Sheldon Building, Nassau and John Sts. Standard Oil, 24-28 Broadway. Stewart, 272-288 Broadway. Syndicate, 35 Nassau St. Telephone, 16-20 Cortlandt St. Temple Court, 3-9 Beekman. Times, 41 Park Row. Tontine, 84-88 Wall St. Tower, 50 Broadway. Tribune, 154 Nassau St. Trinity Court, Broadway and Trinity Place. Union Trust, 80 Broadway. United Charities, 287 Fourth Av. Washington, 1 Broadway. Welles, 18 Broadway. Western Union, Broadway and Dey St.III. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. The amusements of this great gay city are multitudinous in number, as wide in their variety as are the diversity and breadth of human tastes and ingenuity, incessant in action, and of all grades of expen- siveness. They range from the Italian opera and Shaksperian drama, to the beery concert hall and dime museum ; from scientific exhibi- tions to a Bowery auction ; from a Delmonico banquet to a luncheon in Chinatown; from Long Branch and Manhattan Beach to a clam- bake at Sandy Hook ; from Plymouth pulpit to the Salvation Army ; from athletics at the Turn Yerein to a slugging-match on the East Side ; from a morning stroll up Fifth Avenue to a midnight ramble in the Five Points. They change with the alternating seasons, and parallel with the regular methods of enjoyment go innumerable and never-ceasing attractions of an occasional character ; but all fall into certain classes, briefly and candidly summarized below: Theaters and the Opera. New York now has about 45 theaters, properly so-called (including the opera), besides several places where similar entertainments are often given. Stock companies are maintained, however, only at a very few, the metropolitan stage being almost entirely given up to companies led by some star, which give a certain play or series of plays for a certain time and then yield the boards to a different lessee company and play, perhaps of an entirely different character. This has com- pletely upset the traditions of the older theaters, where the public knew just what kind and quality of play might be expected, whatever its name, and has stamped little individuality upon any of the new ones. The prices usual are $2.00 for the orchestra or best balcony seatsTfi.oo admission without a secured seat, and 50 cents to $1.00 for the upper galleries. These prices are increased for grand opera and special performances, and grade downward in the theaters on side- 4546 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. streets, and variety houses, to as low as io cents admission. Seats may be obtained several days in advance. The wearing of full dress by ladies and evening suits by gentlemen is not imperative in New York, as in Europe; but is becoming a more general custom, especially at the opera, and an increasing number of ladies are in the habit of removing their hats, to the great joy of those sitting behind them, and usually to the enhancement of their own appearance. The Rialto.— One of the peculiarities of the city, most noticeable in the early autumn, when actors are seeking and arranging engage- ments, is the congregation of “the profession ” on the sidewalks and the restaurants along Broadway between 27th and 31st Sts. This is due to an ancient custom fostered by the presence in that neighbor- hood of the Actors’ Fund and several dramatic agencies; but this new “ Rialto” is a recent change from the old and famous “ slave mart ” on the south side of Union Square. Amateur Dramatics.— In both New York and Brooklyn many societies of amateur dramatic performers exist, some of which give regular performances, of a public or semi-public nature, while others act only before invited friends. The addresses of such societies can easily be ascertained by any stranger interested in making their acquaintance. Costumes, etc.— Costumers are numerous in the Bowery and Third Av., about Union Square and in Sixth Av., where masquerade dresses, wigs, masks, etc., and usually evening suits may be hired. Alphabetical List of Theaters. Abbey’s Theater.— See Knickerbocker Theater. Academy of Music, E. 14th St., cor. Irving PI.—This was the home of opera and the tragic muse until the Metropolitan Opera House was built, and here all the great singers, especially of Italian opera, were accustomed to be heard. It is a very spacious and handsome structure, interiorly, and for some years past has been exclusively occupied by the “ Old Homestead,” “ Kentucky,” and similar plays. It was built in 1854, and rebuilt, after a fire, in 1866. Amberg Theater.—See Irving Place Theater. American Theater, Eighth Av. and 42d St. — Has a good stock company playing popular plays. Matinees daily, except Monday. Berkeley Lyceum, 44th St., west of Fifth Av.—A small theater, occupied by the American School of Dramatic Arts, but often used for amateur theatricals, readings, charitable performances, etc.THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 47 Bijou Theater, 1239 Broadway.— Comedies. Bowery Theater.— See Thalia Theater. Broadway Theater, Broadway and 41st St.—A large, commodious house, given up mainly to comic opera, such as that sung by Francis Wilson and DeWolf Hopper. Casino, Broadway and 39th St.— An orna- mental pile of Moorish architecture, con- trasting sharply with the staid character of the buildings about it, and at night blazing with lanterns and rows and pinnacles of lights. Interiorly the oriental style is car- 3 ried out in all the details of box- arrangement, open lobbies, and mural decoration, while gilding is laid on with a barbaric ex- pansiveness. Operatic far- ces occupy the stage mainly. A large cafe and summer garden are open on the roof during the summer. Central Opera House, 205 E. 67th St.—Miscellaneous entertainments. Chinese Theater, 5 Doyer St. Criterion Theater, 1514 Broadway, cor. 44th St.— Devoted to melodramas and light comedies. Daly’s Theater, Broadway, near 30th St.—Formerly the home of Ada Rehan and Augustin Daly’s company, playing the Shakesperian and classic dramas, but now under the management of Daniel Frohman, and devoted to light comedies. Dewey Theater, E. 14th St., near Third Av. Eden Musee, 23d St., bet. Broadway and Sixth Av.—This is a museum of wax-works, rivaling Madam Tussaud’s in London; but it has a stage where a variety or musical performance is often given afternoons and evenings. It is open on Sunday. Empire Theater, Broadway and 40th St. —A large and elegant house opened in 1893-4, and devoted to American plays, well staged48 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. and acted by companies tinder such directors, as Charles Frohman and Mr. Gillette. It is noteworthy for its broad balcony, in place of narrow galleries, and the good taste of its decorations. Fifth Avenue Theater, Broadway and 28th St.— A theater under this name has had a long and creditable history on this site; but the present handsome fire-proof building is new, replacing one burned in 1892. This is now called Proctor’s Fifth Avenue Theater and is devoted to continuous performance. Fourteenth Street Theater, 14th St., just west of Sixth Av.— Melodramas and farces, at moderate prices, now characterize this theater, whose history has been a varied one. Garden Theater, northwest corner Madison Square Garden.—This is an artistically finished and peculiarly comfortable house, in which bright comedies and comic opera prevail. It is here that Richard Mansfield has been seen most often of late years. Garrick Theater, 35th St., just east of Broadway. High-class comedy. This was formerly known as Harrigan s Theater. Germania Theater, Eighth St.,between Broadway and Fourth Av. — This small theater, until recently called the Eighth Street, is the scene of Poole’s genre plays in the Plattdeutsch dialect, such as “The Corner Grocer.” The prices are low, and the attendance almost exclusively Germans and Jews. Grand Opera House, Eighth Av. and W. 23d St.—This is another theater of large size and varied fortunes. It has a massive and orna- mental front of white marble, through which a grand entrance from each street leads to the spacious auditorium. Badly situated, it failed as a theater, but in 1869 the building was purchased by the late James Fisk, Jr., and Jay Gould, and the upper floors were devoted to the offices of the Erie Railway until after the death of Fisk. ‘ ‘ It was the scene of the magnificently audacious career of that prince of railway wreckers, and the theater was kept open at a loss during his occupancy, principally as the home of opera bouffeT When Fisk was killed the property passed into the hands of managers who devoted it to “star” companies, and it has prospered. The prices here are frequently much lower than on Broadway. Harlem Music Hall, 125th St., near Seventh Av.—Vaudeville. Harlem Opera House, 125th St., near Seventh Av., is a large and highly decorated theater, devoted to vaudeville.THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 49 Harry Miner’s Theater, Bowery near Broome St.—Variety, where ladies are rarely if ever seen. Herald Square Theater, Broadway and 35th St.—Comic opera of an excellent character, such as “Rob Roy” and “The Girl from Paris.” Huber’s Theater, an attachment of Huber’s Dime Museum, E. 14th St., near Fourth Av., giving variety performances several times daily, at a trifling extra admission price. Keith’s Theater.— See Union Square Theater. Knickerbocker Theater.— Broadway and 38th St. This large and luxurious house was opened in 1893-4 by Abbey, Schoeffel & Grau as Abbey's Theater, and was devoted to playing of the highest class, such as that of Bernhardt, Irving, Rejane, and other European celebrities who have all been seen here, and are likely to continue to appear upon its stage. Its prices are very high. Republic Theatre.—This is a new theater built by Oscar Hammer- stein, at Seventh Av. and 42d St. Irving Place Theater is the home of legitimate drama in German, at 15th St. and Irving Place. Lexington Avenue Opera House, E. 58th St., near Third Av.— Light opera, especially in summer. London Theater, Bowery, near Rivington St.— A variety hall. Attended almost exclusively by men. Lyceum Theater, Fourth Av., between 23d and 24th Sts.—This pretty and popular theater supports Daniel Frohman’s principal stock company, which gives society comedies, such as “ Lord Chumley” and “Trelawny of the Wells,” in an excellent manner. Madison Square Theater, 24th St., near Broadway.—This theater (until lately Hoyt's), is remembered for the excellent work of Mr. Palmer’s stock company several years ago. The orchestra here is over the proscenium, and a striking novelty is an elevator stage, which is raised, and lowered between the acts, giving the stage car- penter an opportunity to set one scene during the playing of the pre- ceding act. It is now devoted to farce comedy. -Madison Square Roof Garden.—This is an open air evening resort on the roof of the front corner of the Madison Square Garden (see p. 54) overlooking Madison Square. It is reached by the elevators in the tower, and includes for an admission fee of 50 cents, the ascent50 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of the tower. Refreshments are served and a performance of vaude- ville is given, which usually includes the latest stage-dancing. Its success has induced several other establishments to arrange their roof space for a similar entertainment. Manhattan Theater, Sixth Av. and Broadway, between 33d and 34th Sts.—Comedies, such as “ Lovers’ Lane,” and “ Mile Fifi.” METROPOLITAN OPERA HOUSE. Metropolitan Opera House.— This vast playhouse occupies the block on Broadway between 39th and 40th Sts., and through to Seventh Av., giving it a space 200 by 260 ft. square. The excellent architecture of this building, which is conspicuously in view all the way up Broadway, from below Union Square, has often been com- mented upon. The design in a general way is after the Italian renaissance, and the material is yellow brick. The entrances are numerous, and the main foyer, in the Broadway front, is 34 by 82 feet in dimensions, and can be enlarged by opening wide doors into a parlor. This building, designed by Cady, was opened in October, 1883, under the manage-THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 51 ment of Henry Abbey, and saw several seasons of grand opera. The interior was ruined by fire in August, 1892, but has since been rebuilt and improved at a cost of $500,000, with entirely new scenery and appointments. Its seating capacity is 3,500. There are 54 boxes, 35 of which are occupied by stockholders, and an omnibus box with seats for 100. It is the home of grand opera, and the Wagnerian operas, as well as Italian favorites, are annually produced there with great splendor and correspondingly high rates. Metropolis Theater, Third Av. and i42d St.—Light comedies. Miner’s Eighth Avenue Theater, Eighth Av., near 26th St.—A variety show— frequented almost wholly by men. Miner’s.—See Harry Miner'1s Theater. Mount Morris Theater, Third Av. and 130th St.—Occasional per- formances. Often used for amateur dramatics. Murray Hill Theater, Lexington Av. and 42d St.—Comedies. New York, Broadway and 44th St.—The music-hall and roof- garden parts of the vast and ornate theater building which has been distinguisned by vaudeville of the most costly and sensational kind. People’s Theater, Bowery, east side, opposite Spring St., is a theater where popular plays are given at cheap prices. Proctor’s Pleasure Palace.—An immense place of entertainment, on E. 58th St., near Third Av., giving a continuous vaudeville from noon till midnight, having a German beer-restaurant in the base- ment, and (in summer) a roof-garden. Proctor’s Theater, on 23d St., just west of Sixth Av., is a pictur- esque structure, also devoted to a continuous variety show, but catering to a somewhat better class of patronage. Roof Gardens.—See Madison Square Roof Garden, New York, Casino, Proctor's Pleasure Palace, Republic, and Victoria. Savoy Theater, 114 W. 34th St.—Melodrama. St. Nicholas Rink, 66th St., near Columbus Av.—Vaudeville in summer, and skating in winter. Thalia Theater, Bowery, near Chatham Sq.—This is the famous ‘"‘Old Bowery Theater,” where, in its early days, the greatest actors and actresses of fifty years ago were seen and heard. It is now devoted to German and Jewish dramas.52 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Third Avenue Theater, Third Av. and 31st St.—Melodramas. Tony Pastor’s Theater, East 14th St., near Third Av.—The oldest vaudeville theater in the city, lately offering a continuous perform- ance from noon till midnight. Union Square Theater, 14th St., near Broadway.—This was for- merly the scene of such plays as the “ Banker’s Daughter” and “A Celebrated Case,” but lately has been devoted to Keith’s “ continu- ous performance ” of vaudeville, the entertainment proceeding with- out interruption from noon to 10 p. m. Victoria Theater, 7th Av. and 42d St.—Opened by Hammerstein for light comedies. Roof garden in summer. Wallack’s Theater, Broadway and 30th St.—Built by Lester Wal- lack after his moving from 13th St., and known as “Wallack’s” until occupied by Mr. A. M. Palmer in 1888. This theater is one of the most elegant and comfortable in the city. Weber & Field’s Music Hall.—Vaudeville. A large refreshment room is attached, and smoking is permitted throughout the audience, but the performance is unobjectionable. Windsor Theater, Bowery, near Canal St.—Popular plays and operas by Jewish actors in the Yiddish dialect. Music, Lectures, and Exhibitions. The Madison Square Garden.— This structure, opened in June, 1890, is of a class by itself, since it affords accommodations for a variety of entertainments. It occupies the block diagonally opposite the northeast corner of Madison Square, bounded by Madison Av., 27th St., Fourth Av., and 26th St., the site of the old garden where circuses, athletic matches and exhibitions were wont to be seen. The new building is a handsome structure of buff brick and light terra cotta; is constructed wholly of masonry, iron, and glass, is lighted Dy electricity, and is absolutely fire-proof. At the southwest corner a tower rises to the height of 300 feet, ascended by elevators and staircases and provided with summit balconies commanding a wide landscape. The building contains an amphitheater, a theater, a restaurant, a concert hall, a roof garden, and several smaller rooms, with all possible conveniences for public and private entertainments. On special occasions all portions of this structure, except the theaterMADISON SQUARE GARDEN — Madison and Fourth Avenues, West Twenty-sixth and West Twenty-seventh Streets, McKim, Mead & White, Architects. 6354 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. can be so arranged as to communicate. The Amphitheater is 310 by 194 feet and 80 feet high, with an arena containing a track one- tenth of a mile in length. It has a permanent seating capacity for 6,000 people, inclusive of 150 private boxes, and for conventions and similar purposes, can be arranged to seat 12,000. Under the per- manent seats, and extending around the entire Amphitheater, is a continuous hall with upward of 30,000 square feet available for exhibitions and fairs. Here the great fancy balls are held, the annual horse, dog, and flower shows, the circus in spring, autumn conven- tions, and midsummer concerts. The Restaurant, on the ground floor in the Madison Av. and 26th St. corner of the building, is 80 x 90 feet in dimensions, and is handsomely decorated. Its kitchen is on the roof. Over the restaurant is the Concert Hall, seating 1,500 people; it is also intended to be used as a ball or banqueting room, and for this purpose connecting supper-rooms and every convenience have been provided. The Roof Garden and Theater have been elsewhere described. Concert Halls.— First among halls devoted primarily to musical productions is the Carnegie Music Hall, a beautiful building on Seventh Av. and 57th St. It was founded by Andrew Carnegie, has cost over $2,000,000, was opened in May, 1890, and has an auditorium which will seat 3,000 persons, besides three smaller halls for recitals and chamber music, and a series of elegant lodge-rooms. While the main purpose of the institution is the encouragement of superior music, and the popular orchestral concerts of Damrosch and Seidl made it widely known, its halls are also to be rented for conventions, lectures, etc. Other similar institutions of lesser size are Mendels- sohn Hall, 119 W. 40th St.; Steinway Hall, E. 14th St.; Berkeley Lyceum, 44 W. 44th St., and Lyric Hall, Sixth Av., near 42d St., all of which are constantly used for lectures and meetings, as well as concerts. The ball rooms of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, Delmonico’s, and Sherry’s are the scene not only of balls and banquets, but of fashionable parlor lectures, musicales, etc. Musical Societies.—The oldest musical society in the city is said to be the German Liederkranz, founded in 1847. The society has about 1,600 members, and a female chorus of about 80 voices. Its club-house is in E. 58th St., between Park and Lexington Avs. The Liederkranz gives at its own hall three concerts, making it a point to perform at each a novelty with their full chorus.THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 55 The Arion is another well-known singing and social club, much like the Liederkranz, though less serious in its musical manifesta- tions. There are some 800 members, 150 of . whom are in the choir, and the club-house is a handsome edifice at Park Av. and 59th St. Less generally known are the Beethoven Mannerchor, 210 5th St.; the Mannerchor, 203 E. 56th St. the Mendelssohn Glee Club, 119 W. 40th St.; the New York Sangerbunde, 138 E. 57tb St.; the Oratorio Society, Seventh Av. near W. 56th St.; and the Philharmonic Society, Carnegie Hall. The concerts of the last-named reach the climax. Lectures in New York are frequent, but occasional, and the adver- tisements in the daily papers, especially in The Tribune and The Evening Post, should be scrutinized daily by anyone interested. Chickering Hall and the hall of the Y. M. C. A. building are the usual places for their delivery, but many are given in churches, and in theaters on Sunday, especially in the Grand Opera House. A long course of weekly lectures is sustained by the Y. M. C. A. each winter; the Cooper Union supports a free course of lectures on popular sci- ence and kindred subjects, and the City provides hundreds of free illustrated lectures in schoolhouses each winter. At Columbia College the lectures to the higher classes are often open to the public, too. The lecture hall of the American Museum of Natural History is occupied nearly every night in winter by illustrated lectures on travel and scientific topics, always free, and exceedingly popular. They are given by the Museum and the Scientific Alliance. But perhaps the most interesting thing in this line, to a visitor, is an evening in the great basement-hall of the Cooper Union. Here are held not only the largest political mass-meetings that assemble anywhere in the city under cover (it was here that Lincoln made his renowned speech in .i860); but it is the usual forum for addresses by the orators of all sorts of reforms and social and religious isms. It is an enor- mous room, and some of the crowds which assemble there exhibit, in a way that can be seen nowhere else at a glance, the cosmopolitan polyglot character of the metropolis. A Sun day-night meeting at the Cooper Union is one of the “ sights ” of New York. The Lenox Lyceum at Madison Av. and 59th St., and the Grand Central Palace, Lexington Av. and 43d St., are large halls devoted to fairs, bicycle tournaments, and similar entertainments. Museums and Galleries.—The two great museums of the city are described as a part of Central Park (see Parks, Art, and Libraries).56 HANDY GUIDE TO HEW YORK CITY. Athletics. The athletic world has undergone a material change during the last few years, and the sports which had the largest following a decade ago are seldom heard of to-day. General track and field athletics were popular always and will remain so; baseball is as popular as ever with schoolboys, and such time-honored amusements as skating never change. But more serious athletics have seen many changes of late. The extraordinary rise of the bicycle has had a marked effect on other sports. Persons supposed to be beyond the ath- letic age have taken to the wheel, and have discovered that they can have amusement and exercise for themselves better than sitting on a bench and watching others. The clubs that encourage racing, “ cen- tury runs,” frequent exhibitions of speed and skill in riding, and the constant improvement of roads nourish the athletic and sportive side of this serviceable machine. (See Rand & McNally’s “ Cycling Guide to the Country Round New York” for general information as to wheelmen and cycling roads and resorts.) Athletic Clubs.—The three best-known athletic clubs in this city are these: New York A. C., with a handsome club-house at Sixth ^ Av. and 59th St., and elaborately prepared grounds and country club- house at Travers Island, in the East River, opposite Pelham, the Knickerbocker, at Madison Av. and 45th St.; its club grounds are at Bayonne, Bergen Point; electric cars from Jersey City, or Central R. R. of New Jersey to West 8th St., Bayonne ; and the U?iiversity at Sixth Av. and 26th St. In Brooklyn the Crescent Athletic Cltib leads; its house and grounds are at Bay Ridge, overlooking the Nar- rows. (Ferry from New York to 39th St., S. Brooklyn, and electric cars.) The once famous Staten Island Athletic Club is only a shadow of its old self; but the cricket club, at Livingston, S. I., retains its vigor. The Columbia Oval at Williamsbridge (Har- lem R. R.) and Berkeley Oval at Morris Heights (N. Y. & Putnam R. R.) are favorite grounds for collegiate and other contests and games. The Y. M. C. A. clubs have sprung up all over the district, and all of them have gymnasiums, in charge of ath- letic experts. Even the regiments of the National Guard have taken to athletics, and the athletic games annually seen at the armories are spirited in character and witnessed by large crowds.THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 57 Baseball does not interest the general public as much as it formerly did, but professional games are still frequent throughout the season. All the National League games are played at the Polo Grounds, Eighth Av. and 155th St. (best reached by the west side elevated railroads), where the New York Baseball Club makes its headquarters. Manhattan Field, right beside it, is under the same management, and here many of the college football games are played, as well as base- ball and other contests and races of various kinds. In Brooklyn the baseball grounds are at Eastern Park, where all the league games in that city are played. The grounds can be reached, by the Kings County and the Union elevated roads, the Long Island Railroad, and by the various surface cars to East New York. The parade ground in Brooklyn, adjacent to Prospect Park, near the southern entrance, is the place where most of the polo, cricket, and amateur baseball games are played. The field is so ample that as many as a dozen baseball games can be seen there on any fine Saturday afternoon. Bowling has made a wonderful advance into popular favor during a few years past. Formerly it was only popular among Germans as an accompaniment to picnics and beery Saturday nights, but its good qualities as an amusing exercise have caused its higher develop- ment. Now there are 4,000 bowling clubs in the metropolitan district, each containing at least twenty members; there are 630 bowling alleys, each costing $2,000. Boating is largely indulged in on the Harlem, along the North River in the upper part of the city, and in Brooklyn, where several prominent aquatic clubs have quarters along the Bay Ridge Shore. The principal clubs in New York are the Atlanta, i62d St., on the Harlem ; The Crescent, 147th St; Metropolitan, 147th St.; Nassau, 158th St.; Nonpareil, 149th St.; Union, 149th St. The principal Brooklyn clubs are at Bath Beach, North Beach, and Sheepshead Bay. Tennis has extensive grounds in Central and Prospect parks, see Parks. The Racquet Club owns an elaborate and luxurious house, at 23 W. 43d St., for the indoor playing of its game, and also for social enjoyment. Rifle-Practice and Shooting.— The rifle-shooting at Creedmoor, L. I., where is situated the range of the National Rifle Association, may interest military visitors, though the excitement of a few years ago in regard to it has subsided. Creedmoor is a small village on the58 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Long Island R. R., xk/z miles from New York, and on match days special trains run at short intervals. Public Golf Links have been laid out by the Park Department on the hillside east of Van Cortlandt Lake, and at Sunset Park, Brooklyn, and Pelham Bay Park. Winter Sports.—Whenever the weather is cold enough good skat- ing is to be had, with much gayety, on the lake in Central Park, and on the sheets of water in the northern part of the city, especially Van Cortlandt Lake and at Prospect Park, Brooklyn. There are forty acres of skating surface in Central Park and seventy-two acres in Prospect Park. Skates may be hired at all these places. Indoor skating is usually provided for at rinks, of which two were open in 1898—the Ice Palace, Lexington Av. and 107th St., and St. Nicholas Rink, Columbus Av. and 66th St. Polo is played in the annex to Prospect Park, Brooklyn. Cricket.—There are public grounds at the north end of Central Park, New York, and in Prospect Park, Brooklyn. THE MALL, CENTRAL PARK, Where the Band plays on Saturdays and Sundays in summer.IV. THE CITY’S PARKS, DRIVES, AND PUBLIC MUSEUMS. All the parks of the enlarged city are under control of a commission of three members, appointed by the mayor, but each commissioner has large independent powers in reference to his own district — one superintending parks and public grounds in the boroughs of Man- hattan and Richmond ; a second, those of Brooklyn and Queens boroughs, and the third, those of Bronx borough. The parks have always been an object of great solicitude on the part of the people, who have guarded them against encroachments with jealous care, and have willingly spent vast sums upon their improvement, espe- cially upon those north of the Harlem, which in a few years will become a most beautiful series of woodland spaces reserved in the midst of the fast advancing city, connected by delightful drives or “parkways,” and in some instances reached by steamboats on East River. Ultimately these parks will be connected with Brooklyn’s systems by a bridge and boulevard. The demolition of whole blocks of buildings in the crowded lower part of the city, to make small parks for the benefit of the tenement house population, is another evidence of the great value New York places upon parks. Battery Park, Bowling Green, and Jeannette Square, at the 59 560 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. southern extremity of the island, and City Hull Park and the open area in front of The Tribune building, called Printing-house Square, are described elsewhere. Abingdon Sqicare, where Eighth Av. turns out of Hudson St., was at one time a fashionable locality, and Jackson Square, where Hudson St., W. 13th St., and Green- wich Av. intersect, is a good bourgeois neighborhood, largely inhab- ited by Scotchmen, whose Caledonian club-house overlooks it. Washington, Union, Madison, and Stuyvesant squares, and Bry- ant and Gramercy parks, will be described in the “Tour of the City.” Tompkins Square is a space on the East Side, some ten acres in extent, between avenues A and B, and 7th and 10th Sts., which has lately been improved, and will in time become a park of great beauty. It is the evening resort of the vast population of wage- workers who live in its neighborhood, as is the new park near the Five Points, and Cor leaps Hook Park, The Hamilton Fish Park, and the W’. H Seward Park for other dense populations on the East side. On summer nights, when the public bands play, these parks are worthy a visit. The City Recreation Piers are a new and much appreciated departure. They are at the foot of E. 3d, E. 24th, E. 112th, Christopher W., W. 50th, and W. 129th Sts. Central Park. Means of Access to Central Park.— The Broadway and Seventh Av., the Sixth Av., the Eighth Av., and the Belt Line street-cars go directly to the lower end of the park. The Eighth Av. line runs along the whole length of its western side, and the Fourth Av. line (on Madison Av.) is only one short block east of it. The Fifth Av. stages go to its main entrance and along its eastern side as far as the Met. Mus. of Art, at 81st St. The Sixth Av. El. Ry. reaches the foot of the park at 58th St. by many direct trains, or by a change from Harlem trains at 50th St.; it also runs along the western .side of the park on Columbus Av., with a station opposite the Museum of Nat. History and the 77th St. gate on that side. The Third Av. El. Ry. is four blocks east of the park; its 67th St. station is most con- venient for the Menagerie and lower part of the park, and its 84th St. station for the Art Museum and Obelisk; a car line crosses the park at 86th St. The Lexington Av. cable line is three blocks 3ast. Lower Park. — Central Park is divided into two nearly equalCITY'S PARKS, DRIVES, AND ‘MUSEUMS. 61 halves, a northern and a southern, by the high ground around the Belvidere and the sunken road at 79th St., beyond which, northward, are the reservoirs and the upper park, to which, however, a stranger does not ordinarily extend his walk. The principal entrance to the park is at 59th St. and Fifth Av., where the Drive begins and where the park phaetons start. This is called the Scholars’ Gate, and it is appropriately adorned by a colossal bust of Alex, von Humboldt, at the unveiling of which, in 1874, Prof. Louis Agassiz made a memor- able address. At Eighth Av. and 59th St. is another spacious entrance, in front of which there is a circular esplanade, styled the Columbus Plaza. In the center of this circle towers the lofty rostral column surmounted by a statue of Columbus— a monument presented to the city by its Italian residents in 1892, in commemoration of the Columbian anniversary. Nearer the park entrance the statue of “Commerce,” presented to the city in 1865 by Mr. Stephen B. Guion, may be seen. Gates will also be found where Seventh and Sixth Avs. abut upon the park; the Sixth Av. gate has a statue to Thor- waldsen, presented by Scandinavian citizens. The Scholar’s Gate (Fifth Av. and 59th St.) is the best starting point for a ramble, and the reader is advised to make his way along the broad thoroughfare leading inward from that entrance, which will quickly take him to the Menagerie.—The living animals displayed here will hold his atten- tion a longer or shorter time according as his interest in them is large or small. They are grouped in small houses around the old Arsenal, a picturesque building of unknown age containing a police station in the basement, offices for the administration of the Commissioner for Manhattan, and a meteorological observatory of much consequence in the attic; it is close to the gate at 64th St. and Fifth Av. In front of it are houses and cages containing the monkeys, the parrots, and other tropical birds, and certain cats and other small animals that require warmth; a cage of eagles; a large wire fronted aviary, and several pens containing buffalos, deer, etc. In the rear of the Arsenal are pens for the deers, bisons, oriental buffalos and other quadrupeds; the great tank for the sea-lions; and exposed cages with wolves, etc. In winter many of these cages and paddocks are unoccupied, the animals that inhabit them in warm weather having been put under shelter. The lion-house, containing the lions, tigers, leopard, etc., the two-horned rhinoceros, and the interesting trio of hippopotami (which are provided with a huge tank), is among these cages, and forms the central attraction to most visitors. ~ In the rear02 IIANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of that is the deer-house and adjoining paddocks, where elks, giraffes, oriental goats, etc., are lodged, and behind that the house for the elephants, and the pond and paddock where the storks and some other large birds live. The bear pits are hollowed into the side of a rocky ledge near by, and form an unfailing attraction to the children. In winter many animals belonging to circuses are boarded here, and form apart of the exhibit which, consequently, is much more extensive at that season, than in summer. The Mall, Esplanade, etc.—In moving about the menagerie, glimpses are caught of the winding, rocky-shored piece of water at the southern end of the park called The Pond, and a short walk to the bridge in the rear of the Menagerie should be taken, in order to look at it. This done, turn your face northward, pass beneath the arch that carries a drive over the main pathway and follow its wind- ings onward until it brings you out upon the Mall. This is a broad level space of rather high ground, a quarter of a mile long, planted with parallel rows of stately elms, between which broad and straight paths of asphalt, lined with seats, run straight to where the prospec- tive is beautifully closed by the carved balustrade of the Terrace, over which, in the remote distance, rises the tower and flag of the Belvedere. Southward, a charming" glimpse is caught, through the trees, of the tall apartment-houses on 59th St. and of the roofs and steeples along Fifth Av. At your left stretches the undulating lawns of The Green, dotted here and there, perhaps, with pasturing sheep, watched by a son of “Old Shep”—a dog, now dead, whose fame has gone far and wide (See St. Nicholas, Vol. XI, Pt. II, p. 747.) Below the Green, nearer to the Eighth Av. entrance, is the ball ground, devoted to boys’ amusements; but it is invisible from here and the noise of its shouting players does not despoil the silence. At the lower end of the Mall is a statue of Shakspere, by J. Q. A. Ward, erected there in 1872, on the 300th aniversary of the poet’s birth; and just above it, facing each other, are statues of Burns and Scott, both in sitting posture, and appropriately borne upon pedestals of Aberdeen granite. Both were modeled by John Steele of Edinburgh, and presented to New York by resident Scotch- men. Ward’s “ Indian Hunter ” stands somewhat behind the Burns statue, looking eagerly towards The Green; and a few rods up the Mall is the bronze statue of Fitz Greene Halleck, modeled by Wilson MacDonald. The Mall' is the great promenade of the park, and on summer afternoons is always filled with loiterers, while goat-car-CITY'S PARKS, DRIVES, AND MUSEUMS. 68 riages, carrying happy youngsters, race up and down one of the side paths. At the upper end is the Kiosk, in which, on Sunday after- noons, a band plays in the presence of great throngs of listeners of every class of society, and significantly overlooking this musical spot is the bust of Beethoven, unveiled with much ceremony in July, 1884. Here, at the right, are the beautiful Wistaria Bower and (behind it) the Casino (restaurant), where ice cream and light edibles may be pro- cured at moderate prices. THE TERRACE BELOW THE MALL The Ramble.— Here no “guide” is wanted, the very genius of the place, which has been left as wild as possible, and whose paths wind in and out most confusingly or come to a sudden halt against the rocks or lake shore, is to wander without method or care till you are rested from the formality and crowd of the town, “ so near and yet so far.” A noble bust of Schiller; rustic cabins set upon lofty points of rock; narrow gorges hung with blossoming vines ; splash- ing waterfalls ; a gloomy cave ; thickets, flowers, birds, woodland sights and sounds—these are the features of The Ramble. The pick- ing of flowers and the breaking of twigs are wisely forbidden. A sign directs the rambler to the Carrousel — a place for children’s games64 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. with swings, merry-go-rounds, etc. Another sign directs him to the Dairy, near by, where milk, bread and butter, cheese, and the like, may be bought for a luncheon. The Belvedere is not far away, along shady paths and over bare rocks, and it should not be forgotten. The view from its tower is worth far more than the small exertion of climbing to the outlook. The reservoirs seen at the foot of the tower and northward are those which first receive the Croton water, and whence it is distributed. From the Belvedere a path down an avenue of thorn-trees, which completely overarch it, leads eastward to the main thoroughfare, whence it is only a short distance to the Art Mu- seum and Obelisk at 82d St. and Fifth Av., a description of which will be found a few pages ahead Returning from the Belvedere to The Ramble, keep along the edge of the lake, cross another bridge, pausing a moment to look at the swans, and walk straight on to the gate at 77th St. A large unfinished stone and brick building faces you on the opposite side of Eighth Av., surrounded by wide and regular lawns. The green space is Manhattan Square, an annexation to Central Park, and the uncom pleted building is the nucleus of The American Museum of Natural History, large as it already is, is only a beginning. The entire building, as designed, will occupy the whole of Manhattan Sq., and embrace four great courts. The architecture will be imposing and the central structure will be surmounted by a lofty dome. An idea of the appearance may be gained from the completed south front on 77th St.— a beautiful struct- ure of light brown stone, approached by a grand stairway. Admit- tance is free except on Monday and Tuesday (25 cents), and the museum is open on Sunday afternoons and on Tuesday and Saturday evenings. Pamphlets descriptive of several collections are for sale at the door ; but the system of labelling is so complete that these are hardly required by the casual visitor. The museum occupies a building of five stories in height along the whole front of the north side of 77th St., with a tee piece running northward. The entrance is in the center, and visitors should choose the ground level in preference to the so-called main door at the top of the outside steps. By this means the whole collection is reached, floor by floor, without repeating. It contains articles and models illustrating the life of the Eskimos of North America, the Shoshone Indians, the Gros Ventres; basketry, and the archaeology of New York ; a fine collection of Totem poles of the Ilaida Indians; masksNATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM — 77th Street Front Main Entrance in 65The Walter Sanitarium Walters Park, near Reading, Pa. I N the mountains of Southeastern A Pennsylvania, less than two hours from Reading Terminal, Philadelphia, four hours from New York, without change. air, PJatxr, and keener? Seldom (Equaled. BUILDINGS OF GRANITE ROCK, 320 FEET FRONT, FIVE STORIES IN HEIGHT. THE Original Massage Institution, erected, owned, and managed by its founder, who has given forty-five years to the study and practice of sanatory methods, fifteen years as a supposed incurable invalid, and thirty years' as a practitioner who first healed himself. 43atl)6, ^Hotinnrnts, ©Irctrtcttp, fypgtcnic iDtctarp, iDatrp, LtPcrp. TERMS VERY MODERATE. Send for Illustrated Catalogue. Address ROBT. WALTER, M. D., WALTERS PARK, PA.CITY'S PARKS, DRIVES, AND MUSEUMS. 61 and dishes from British Columbia ; carvings from Vancouver Island, and basketry and utensils of the Chilcoten and Yakima Indians; the Jesup collection of woods; the Hyde collection from the ancient pueblos, cliff-houses, and burial-caves of the Southwest; groups of animals, masterpieces of the taxidermist’s art, conspicuous amongst which are the cases of moose, bison, and musk-ox, undoubtedly the finest in the world. This is particularly true of the Bird-rock group and the Water Ouzel group. Here, also, are minerals, includ- ing the exhibit of the Tiffany’s, at the Paris Exhibition in 1889, pur- chased and presented by J. Pierpont Morgan ; collection of meteorites and geological specimens, including the collection of the late Prof. J. Hall, priceless to palaeontologists; specimens of vertebrate palaeon- tology ; cretaceous fish ; ichthyosaurus with young, showing it to have been viviparous, and hundreds of other priceless examples of by- gone ages. The collection of reproductions and casts of the ancients’ monoliths and bas-reliefs of Central America, presented by the Duke of Loubat, is shown here, as well as rare and curious specimens illustrating the pre-Columbian life of that portion of the continent. One floor is given up to anthropology, conchology, palaeontology, ento- mology, and mammalogy, and on this floor is the library containing 55,000 volumes on natural history subjects, accessible to members and students, and the laboratory for photography. In addition to its use as a museum it is a center of .scientific life. Supplementing the lectures organized officially, the meetings and lectures of the New York Entomological Society and the Linnaean Society of New York, are held within it. The lecture hall has a seating accommodation of 1,500 and is a separate building at the extreme north of the museum. The lectures on Tuesdays and Saturdays are free. The Drive.— A good plan will be to return now to Central Park and wait until one of the public carriages comes along, northward bound. These carriages or “ phaetons ” are roomy and easy-going affairs, which make the complete circuit of the park at intervals of about half an hour. The fare is 25 cents for each passenger for the whole ride. This pleasant and profitable trip (which by the way is not beneath the dignity of anyone), begins at the Fifth Av. and 59th St. entrance. The course is to and past the end of the Mall, show- ing its green parterres, the noble breadth of The Green and all the statues there; then along the western side of the Mall and to a knoll at the lower end of the Lake, passing the fine bronzes “ Tigress and Young” by Aug. Caine, and “The Falconer,” by George Simonds; then around the western extremity of the Lake, past the heroically tall bronze statue of Daniel Webster, which was modeled by Thomas Ball, and stands opposite 73d St. The Lake remains prettily in view for some time on the right, with the wroods of The Ramble, and the mediasval tower of the Belvedere as its background. On the left,68 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. outside the park, the Dakota, Majestic, and vSan Remo hotels, and the Natural History Museum are here conspicuous. The memorial statue of the Seventh Regiment also stands near 72d St., and not far from it is a bust of Mazzini, the Italian liberator, modeled by Turini, and +he gift of Italian citizens. Leaving the lake shore, the drive loses itself among almost continuous lines of trees. The grim walls of the lower reservoir are near at hand on the right. Near the 8ist St. gate an equestrian statue of General Simon Bolivar will attract notice. It was a gift from the government and people of the Venezuelan Republic. Through thickening and beautiful woods, opening here to a glimpse of sunny hill-slopes or rocky exposures, and there to the shining surface of the lake-like reservoir, the passen- ger rolls smoothly along the perfectly kept road. If it is in the morning not many carriages will be seen, but the bridle-path which follows the road pretty closely may be well filled; but if the hour is toward sunset the drive will be crowded with handsome equipages, and one may feel himself quite “ in the swim.” The upper end of the park is much wilder and more solitary than the lower end; and here, on a bit of a hilltop called Mt. St. Vincent, at the extreme end of the drive, is a large restaurant and lounging place, where excellent fare is given at moderate rates. The southward ride along the East Drive differs from the upper part of the West Drive only in the fact that you overlook a wide area of half-built town toward the east. The Obelisk and Metropolitan Museum of Art are passed at 82d St., with passing glances of admira- tion for Conradt's statue of Alexander Hamilton, and Kemeys’s “ Still Hunt,” which stands a little above them. Then the beautiful woods and rocky knolls and lake glimpses along the eastern side of the lower park begin; the bronze statue of Prof. S. F. B. Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph, attracts attention near the 72d St. entrance; Ward’s historical statue of “ The Pilgrim ” (a gift from the New England Society) is justly admired as the Lake is approached; the Terrace and Mall fall under our eyes, and the ride ends at the familiar approach to the Scholars’ Gate — the starting point. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is on the eastern side of Central Park, opposite the entrance at 8ist St. It is half a mile from an elevated railway, but is reached directly by the Fifth Av. stages. The Fourth (or Madison) Av. street-cars pass within one block, andCITY’S PARKS, DRIVES, AND MUSEUMS, 69 the park carriages go to the door. Admittance is free except on Mon- day and Friday, when 25 cents is charged; open Sunday, 1 to 5 p. m. The principal entrance is in the east front. Turnstiles within the door admit and register visitors, and umbrellas and canes must be checked and left at the desk. A series of hand-books, costing 10 to 20 cents each, may be bought, covering a number of the separate exhibits; the catalogue of paintings is especially full and valuable. Unlike the great European art museums, the Metropolitan is a private institution, receiving but a small sustenance from New York The Original Home, the First Section ^ity. The Louvre, Built, of the Metropolitan Museum of til6 lDritlSH J.ViUS6Um, Art, in Central Park. the art galleries of Dresden, Naples,Vi- enna, and Madrid, are national institu- tions, and some of them centuries old. But this is a corporation of individuals, who devote some of the benefits of their wealth in this way to the people; and although the older part of the museum was erected little more than ten years ago, it stands unique in the world in its Cyprian antiquities; is second only to the British Museum in its Babylonian cylinders; leads all American collections in paintings and statues, and has acquired an incomparable series of mummy cases. The original plan of the building provided for extensions, which have been made from time to time on the rear or northern side in order to accommodate the rapid accumulation of new objects by the munificence of art-lovers. Other and more extended enlargements are in progress on the eastern side. The corporation in charge of the museum has for several years maintained an estimable art school in New York City.70 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Among the treasures of this museum are examples of the most noted of the masters of the Italian, Dutch, Flemish, and Spanish schools — Michael Angelo, Leonardi de Vinci, Correggio, Murillo, Claude Lorraine, Titian, Velasques, Teniers, Holbein, Albert Durer, Rembrandt, Rubens, and many others, are all represented. The mod- ern French and English schools have specimens ranging from Gains- borough, Turner, and Reynolds to Rosa Bonheur, Leighton, Alma Tadema, and Constant. The American school includes Gilbert Stuart, Kennett, Cropsey, Gay, and Innes. The metallic arts, porce- lains, laces, and musical instruments are amongst the most noted, but the most artistic and remarkable gathering is probably that of the goldsmith’s art, mainly due to the munificence of J. Pierpont Morgan, containing magnificent examples, going back to 300 B. C., in most perfect condition, amongst which are a corona Tr hemp kalis, such as were awarded to athletes; a corona Nuptualis, or bridal wreath, wrought in silver and gold, in leaves of the oak, myrtle, and hawthorn, both in leaf and flower-bud; and a gold crown of the Priestess of Demiter. Sculpture and architectural embellishment are represented mainly by casts, but they are good ones, and few museums can possibly have more than a few originals. Arms and armor, and specimens of the art of the worker in iron are a worthy and, in some respects, a remarkable collection, as also is the exhibit of early glass—Persian and Arabian, Greek, Roman, and early Phoenician. Carved wood, of European, Japanese, and Burmese workmanship with elaborate inlaying, is represented by some of the best extant examples.. In fact, for variety, richness, and artistic ex- cellence, the Metropolitan Museum bids fair, especially in light of the Rogers five millions to which it has recently fallen heir, to rank amongst the best art galleries of the world. The Obelisk, “Cleopatra's Needle." The obelisks that stand as mementoes of ancient religions and king- doms in the valley of the Nile, have been objects of intense interest to the world ever since their erection; and it is a subject of gratifica- tion to all Americans that the most distinguished of those remaining in Egypt — the far-famed “Cleopatra’s Needle,” should have been permitted to come to New York. Historical.—This obelisk was quarried out of the hard, rose-red syenite of the quarries of Assouan (anciently Syene), in Nubia, and was then floated 700 miles down the Nile to the ancient city On, known in classical writings as Heliopolis— City of the Sun — whose ruins are near the modern village of Matunyeh, five miles from Cairo.C1T Y*S PARKS, DRIVES, AND MUSEUMS. 71 This renowned temple at Heliopolis, of which a model has been preserved, was consecrated to the special service of Ra, the mid-day sun, the god of creating light and‘life, and thence, secondarily, to deities associated with him by similarity of attributes. There is no record of the founding of this building, which is regarded as only exceeded in age, in all Egypt, by the shrine of Pthah at Memphis. It was occasionally rebuilt or repaired, and at last, was restored and enlarged by Thothmes III who belonged to the XVIIIth dynasty, was a great warrior, and represented the height of Egypt’s period of conquest and expansion about sixteen centuries before Christ. He also adorned the temple grounds with new and splendid obelisks. Two of these, of the larger size, stood in front of the temple, one on each side of the main entrance; and it is one of these two that has been set up in Central Park. Though always of religious significance, the obelisks themselves were not worshiped, but bore the names of the god or gods of life, to which they were severally consecrated, and also of the king — himself an object of worship — who erected them. This form of monument was symbolic of the highest function of nature— re-creation. They were always associated with temples, yet always an exterior acces- sory, as was the case with this one. When this obelisk was erected, it had only a single vertical column of hieroglyphics, placed there to the glory of Thothmes III. Three centuries later, Rameses II, the “ Pharaoh” of Mosaic story, added two outside lines upon each face, while Seti II also placed a few lines of hieroglyphics with his cartouche, on the lower front of the stone. Thus this stone commemorates three great rulers. When the Romans conquered Egypt, they brought down the two great obelisks above mentioned, and sent them to Alexandria to ornament a city at that time only second to Rome itself in grandeur and learning. This occurred in the eighteenth year of the reign of Augustus, 13-12 B. C., when Publius Rubrius Barbaras was prefect of Egypt; and the engineer who managed the removal was a celebrated Greek architect named Pontius. The bases of these two shafts had become some- what rounded, and the Romans thought the best plan was to support them freely upon bronze legs. These took the form of sea crabs (regarded as appropriate because the crab was the symbol of Apollo — a god in the Roman mythology which corresponded with Ra); but afterward nearly all the accessible portions of these crabs were hacked away by plunderers. Fortunately, however, in the case of the present obelisk, the one crab remaining in fair condition (and which may be seen in the Art Museum) contained an inscription which affords the information as to its removal above recited. This obelisk (as well as its fallen companion now in London) has been known for a long time as Cleopatra’s Needle; but it is evident from the history above given, and the fact that Cleopatra died some years before the stone.was brought from Heliopolis, that she never had anything to do with it entitling her name to remembrance by it. °HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. How the Obelisk was Obtained. — In early days several smaller obelisks were taken to Rome, and may still be seen there, after a his- tory of vicissitude. Afterward a larger one was sent to Constanti- nople. The Parisians obtained one from Luxor (Thebes) and set it up in the Place de la Concorde ; and in about 1876, the fallen compan- ion to ours, in Alexandria, was moved to London and erected upon the Thames embankment. This last circumstance aroused a general desire in the United States that one should be brought over here, and upon learning this fact the late Khedive of Egypt, Ismail Pasha, presented this one, which was the most easily accessible, and the sixth largest in size in all Egypt, to the city of New York. The work of its removal was committed to Lt.-Com. H. H. Gorringe, U. S. N., and the entire expense was borne by the late W. H. Vanderbilt. The Inscriptions.—The carvings upon the obelisk long antedate, of course, the invention of letters ; yet they are a form of writing in which ideas are expressed by pictures and symbols. These are called hieroglyphs, and were read as easily by anyone acquainted with the meanings of these conventional drawings as an expert now reads an easy rebus in a juvenile magazine. Those meanings, however, were lost and forgotten many centuries ago, and it is only within a few de- cades that scholars have re-discovered, to some extent, the significance of the conventional figures and signs, and have acquired the ability to translate some of the hieroglyphics. Orientalists still differ, how- ever, as to many meanings, and hence no agreement has been reached in regard to the full translation of the inscriptions upon this shaft. Certain general facts are clear, nevertheless. The sides of the shaft were inscribed with three vertical rows of characters, and the faces of the pyramidion, or sloping apex, contain other figures in squares —all in intaglio relievo. As originally the apex was gilded, and the surface of the shaft brightly polished, these depressed characters would be even more distinct than they now are. The inscriptions, so far as they have been translated, are of little historical value. Those in the pyramidion are unquestionably dedicatory to the two gods Ra and Atum — to Ra, as god of heaven, and to Atum as god of Heliopolis. The translations of those on the shaft are little more than a monotonous list of official epithets and mag- niloquent titles. The hawks, at the top of the column on each face, are the birds of Ra, because they fly the highest and are supposed to be able to gaze steadily at the sun; the bull often represented is Mnevis, the sacred white bull of that worship; and the little group of figures here and there in each column, enclosed by an oval, is the cartouche or signature of the royal inscriber. The middle columns on each sideGRANT'S TOMB—South Front Entrance. The top corner figures and other sculpture has yet to be supplied. 73•4 HISTORIC CLAREMONT, AMERICA’S FAMOUS ROADHOUSE — See page 77.CITY'S PARKS, DRIVES, AND MUSEUMS. 75 are by Thotmes III, who set tip this obelisk; and those on the sides are by Ramesis II, inscribed three centuries later. In addition to this, Seti (or Usorken) I placed his cartouche upon three faces, near the base, about nine and a half centuries before Christ. The inscriptions cut upon the bronze crabs, and said to be copied from the original, are wrong, since the cleaning and further study of the old fragment show that the true date (as explained above) is 13-12 B. C., instead of 23-22. The full history of these bronzes, and their Greek and Latin inscriptions, are given by Prof. A. C. Merriam in a “ Monograph,” published by the Harpers, and for sale in the Museum of Art (price 50 cents). Dimensions.— The full length of the obelisk is 69 ft. 2 inches. This includes the pyramidion, which is 7 ft. 8% inches high, precisely the width of its base. The slope of its sides would, if continued to twice the length of the stone, cause them to meet in a point. The weight is 220 tons. Much fear was entertained that the severe alternations of heat and cold in this climate would cause the surface of the stone to chip, and a coating of paraffine was therefore applied; whether or not this was efficacious, no evidences of decay are yet discernible. Books upon this and other Egyptian obelisks have been written by Lt.-Com. H. H. Gorringe (a quarto with many fine illustrations), by W. R. Cooper, of London, and by several other authors, which can be obtained at the libraries. Other Parks and Drives. Riverside Park and Grant’s Tomb. — Riverside Park, or Drive, lies along the high verge of the Hudson, between 71st and 127th Sts., and is reached by the boulevard street-cars, by the Sixth Av. El. Ry. (half a mile walk), or, at its upper end, by the cable-cars along 125th St. to Fort Lee Ferry. It was the subject of an appreciative illus- trated article, by William A. Stiles, in The Century, October, 1885, and of an illustrated article in Munsey, October, 1898. All along Riverside Avenue, which bounds the park inland, and extends northward to the Convent in Manhattanville, elegant houses, surrounded by expensive lawns and flower gardens are rising; and it is fair to suppose that this admirable region will become, and perma- nently remain, one of the finest and most fashionable residence por- tions of the metropolis. “ The road itself — a cluster of ample ways for pleasure riding, driving, and walking, separated by strips of turf from which stately trees are to rise, and extending for three miles — would have a dignity of its own wherever it might lead through the 6BANDY GUIDE TO BEW VORK CITY. % city. But its position overlooking the broad Hudson gives it ail added importance and an individual character which are not repeated nor paralleled in any of the famous avenues of the world.” The roadway and pedestrian promenade is bounded by the low coping of. the massive retaining wall, which withholds the drive from sliding down the steep river-bank. “ Below this retaining wall the woods have been.left in their native wildness, with only asphalt walks threading aisles made by the trees themselves. It is in this wilderness that Riverside lovers find a paradise. ... As long as the daylight lasts the walks and grass-grown hills are the play- grounds of myriads of children. . . . Bordering the eastern line of the drive-way is a row of fine modern houses quite unlike any other metropolitan dwellings. It seems almost as though their owners had endeavored to combine with the necessities of city life some of the joys of a rural residence.” These elegant homes begin on the rise south of the 79th St. hollow, and are resumed at 84th St. After passing the big private school for girls between 85th and 86th Sts., one comes to a handsome row of light-colored residences. Gen. E. L. Viele lives on the corner of 88th St.; near 90th St. a very strik- ing house, with a red tiled roof and many balconies, is that of John H. Matthews, “ who made a solid fortune out of effervescent soda ; ” and the 90th St. corner is occupied by the picturesque ivy-grown home of Mrs. Mary S. Parsons, in front of which a flight of stone steps descends to the river; this house was built by Cyrus Clark, “Father of the West Side” on the site of the pillared country-seat of Brockholst Livingston. The Delanceys, Apthorpes, and McVic- kars once had adjoining estates, and a volume of interesting local reminiscences might be compiled here. Outside the drive stands a bronze copy of Houdin’s statue of Washington, given to the city by the school-children. Beyond this comes the hollow and roadway at 96th St., plans for bridging which are in progress; and the high ground on the further side is crowned by the old-fashioned white mansion of the Furness estate, marked by a pillared portico and spacious wings. The large red brick and brown stone house and grounds of Peter Doelger cover half the block at 100th St. Another big house set back from and above the street, and surrounded by a garden at io2d St., noticeable for the fact that it is built of iron, is the home of Mrs. Bertha Foster, widow of the man whose patent glove-hooks brought him a fortune. Maggie Mitchell, the actress, dwells in her own house a block east, at the corner of West End Avenue ; and Richard Mansfield lives at No. 312, just beyond 104th St. At 108th St. the huge square-towered house of S. G. Bayne, and the ivy-grown one of his neighbor, H. S. F. Davis, are conspicuous, but above that few have been built. This, however, is the highest, most sightly part of the drive, and lots are said to be worth $25,000 apiece. ^Another similar drive is to be made along the river front of Wash- ington Heights, from 155th St. northward to Old Ft. George.CITY'S PARKS, DRIVES, AND MUSEUMS. n Park carriages ply between 72d St. and Grant’s Tomb; fare, 25 cents. The Claremont restaurant is one of the historic landmarks of the city and a meal in its breezy verandas is one of the indispensable things “to do.” It is on a bluff just above Grant’s tomb, commanding an unsurpassed view of the Hudson and the Palisades, and its history is an epitome of America’s public life. Over the adjacent hills, with Washington in command, was fought the ever memorable battle of Harlem. It was modeled after Lord Clive’s historic Claremont in Sur- rey, England, now owned by King Edward VII. From Claremont the British minister viewed the trials of the first steamboat, the Fulton, in 1807. It was the residence of Joseph Bonaparte whom Napoleon made King of Spain, and since its acquisition by the city, its Lessee (R. A. Gusher) has entertained untold hosts of guests, from President McKinley to the Governors and Officials of the State and City. Claremont is in fact the gathering place of the beauty and the chiv- alry of the metropolis. The northern part of the park has kept the old name Claremont Heights, and here, overlooking a commanding prospect, and sur- rounded by quiet lawns, which keep at a reverential distance the “equipage and bravery of fashion,” has been placed the Tomb of Gen. U. S. Grant, the first soldier of the restored Union. General Grant died on July 23, 1885. His own preference, as well as that of his family, led to his interment in New York; and the site of the present monument was chosen, and set apart by the city, because of its natural beauty, not only, but because a memorial build- ing would be visible from many distant points in the city, harbor, and river. A temporary vault-like tomb was immediately constructed, and the body was placed therein, August 8, 1885, after “the most solemn and imposing ” funeral demonstration ever made in New York, viewed by more than a million people. Here the body of the great captain remained until removed to its present final resting- place, in 1897. The following description of this magnificent mau- soleum is quoted by permission from Gen, Horace Porter’s account in The Century Magazine, for April, 1897: “ The lower portion of the tomb is a square structure of the Grecian- Doric order, measuring 90 feet on a side. The entrance is on the south side, and is protected by a portico formed of double lines of columns, and approached by steps 70 feet wide. The square portion is finished with a cornice and a parapet, at a height from grade of 72 feet, and above this is a circular cupola 70 feet in diameter, of the Ionic, which is surmounted with a pyramidal top terminating at a height of 150 feet above grade, or 280 feet above mean high water of the Hudson River. The interior is cruciform in plan,- 76 feet at the greatest dimension, the four corners being piers of masonry connected at the top by coffered arches the tops of which are 50 feet from the floor-level.^ On these arches rests an open circular gallery of 40 feet78 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. inner diameter, culminating in a paneled dome 105 feet above the level of the floor. The surfaces between the planes of the faces of the arches and the circular dome form pendentives which are decor- ated in high-relief sculpture, the work of J. Massey Rhind, and emble- matic of the birth, military and civic life, and death of General Grant. . . . The approach to the crypt is by stairways which give access to a passage encircling the space dedicated to the sarcophagi, which space is surrounded by square columns supporting paneled marble ceilings and entablature.” In the construction of this memorial the greatest care was taken to obtain the highest solidity and durability. The stone is granite from North Jay, Me.; only large, flawless blocks were used, and every- where the best possible material and workmanship was exacted. Five years passed between the laying of the cornerstone by President Harrison and the dedication; and the total cost will be about $600,000, contributed by about 90,000 givers, none in a larger sum than $5,000, and almost entirely citizens of New York. The matter has been in the hands of a Monument Association, the most influential member of which was Gen. Horace Porter. Their sole reward was the uni- versal public interest and magnificent pageantry that united to make the dedication of this memorial, April 27, 1897, one of the most nota- ble public occasions in the history of the metropolis and the country. The plans contemplate a noble approach from the river’s edge, where a steamboat-landing will be built. The body of General Grant rests in a sarcophagus hollowed from a single, flawless block of red porphyry, quarried at Monteiro, Wis., which is closed by a massive lid of* the same lustrous material. A duplicate beside it will contain the body of Mrs. Grant, according to the General’s wishes. Morningside Park extends from Central Park at noth St. to 123d St. It occupies high, rocky ground, and the battlemented wall and heavy staircases along its eastern side, overlooking the Harlem flats, are conspicuous from the trains of the Sixth Av. El. Ry. At its northern end are the remains of Fort Laight, one of the line of block-houses, built to defend the northern approaches to the city in the war of 1812-14. Morningside Heights is the name given to the elevated plateau immediately west of Morningside Park, which is gradually becoming covered with imposing buildings, and will be, after a few years, the most beautiful part of the city. At the southern end will stand the magnificent Protestant Episcopal Cathedral of St. John, the Divine; a part of the apse has been erected. Just above it has already been finished the first section of the great St. Luke’s Hos-CITY'S PATHS, DRIVES,, AND MUSEUMS. 79 pital. Upon a large area north of that stands the imposing quad- rangle of new buildings for Columbia University. The central place is now occupied by the Library, whose gray dome is promi- nent above the reddish-gray of the other college halls (see p. 172). North of it are visible Barnard College and the towers of the Teachers College. These buildings, with Grant’s Tomb, will make a mag- nificent show from the river, and entitle these heights to be called the Acropolis of New York when all shall be completed. The Boulevard is a doubly broad street, following the line of the old Bloomingdale road, which starts at 59th St. and Eighth Av., and extends northwesterly to 167th St. It is the main road, leading from out of the city to all the northern suburbs, and when the rapid transit railroad, which underlies it, is completed, will again be the great artery of travel which it was a hundred years ago. Parks and Drives North of the Harlem. Harlem has its own little park in pretty Mt. Morris Square, which occupies about twenty acres and interrupts Fifth Av., between 120th and 124th sts., by its rocky hill, which is over 100 feet high, and crowned by an observatory. An examination of this relic of the original roughness of the land here gives one an idea of the labor expended in reducing to the present level the streets and building sites of this now flat and monotonous district. Another reservation is that for Colonial Park, between Bradhurst and Edgewood avs., extending from W. 145th to W. 155th St. Six new parks, in and near the annexed district north of the Har- lem River, recently projected, are as follows: Van Cortlandt Park.— A new and large park containing 1,069 acres, which is yet almost in its original condition of rocky woodland, (lake and stream, and contains a large parade ground for the National Guard. Van Cortlandt station, on the N. Y. & Putnam R. R., stands upon its margin and near the lake and public golf links. Bronx Park lies along both sides of the Bronx River above West Farms. It is reached by elevated railroad, Fordham Station, or by trolley-cars to West Farms or Bronxdale; and is connected with Van Cortlandt Park by the Mosholu Parkway, and with Pelham Park, along the coast of Long Island Sound, four miles eastward, by another Parkway. Bronx Park was long ago the property of the Lorillards, whose mansion still stands near the waterfall that ran the old snuff mill wherein the family fortune was begun. The manor house is the office-of the park superintendent, and in its basement is a restaurant.80 HANDY GUIDE TO NE W YORK CITY. The Botanical Gardens, which are resulting from the efforts of a society in cooperation with the city government, are in this part of the park, which has been prepared for them; some 300 acres have been set apart for this purpose. The Zoological Garden, under the care of the New York Zoological Society, in cooperation with the State and City, adjoins the Botanical Garden and has a grant of 266 acres. A grand display of animals, domiciled as nearly as possi- ble in their native circumstances, is made, and special attention given to American animals. Both institutions have a high educational value, by maintaining libraries and lecture courses; and the public is admitted free on four or five days of each week. Crotona Park is a space of 135 acres between Morrisania and Tremont, also connected with Bronx Park by a drive. It is easily reached by the Suburban El. Ry. to 170th St. Claremont Park lies upon the wooded ridge three-quarters of a mile east of High Bridge, and just west of Central Morrisania (Harlem R. R.) station; and St. Mary s Park is in the heart of Morrisania. There is also a little park surrounding the reservoir at the southern end of High Bridge. Pelham Bay Park is the largest park in the city, consisting of 1,756 acres of unimproved country, with seven miles of water-front on Long Island Sound. It has great potentialities of development. It is reached at the Bartow station of the Harlem branch of the N. Y., N. H. & H. R. R. A public golf links has been made by the city, and when this park is joined to the Bronx by a parkway, as it is in- tended to be, it will be the richest of the string of parks that girdle the great city from the Sound to the Hudson. The Speedway.—This is a public “ speeding course ” along the west bank of the upper Harlem River, provided by the city as a place where owners of fast horses may test their paces. Its length is about three miles, and its total width is from 125 to 150 feet, diminished to 95 feet, width of roadway, by the sidewalks, whose presence was bitterly opposed by the housemen, whose selfishness has been conspicuous in the whole history of this peculiar feature of the city’s public grounds. The construction of the road is as follows: Over- lying a Telford bed are four inches of broken trap rock, graded to give the crown of the road a dip of two inches to the side channeling. On this are four inches of cinders, rolled and packed to the same grade. The top dressing is a mixture of sand, loam, and clay, the latter in the proportion of about two to one. The grade is as nearly level as it was possible to get it. From High Bridge to a little beyond Washington Bridge there are a few slight inclines and declines, but beyond Washington Bridge there is a practically straight and level stretch of two miles. The speedway can be reached from the 155th St. viaduct, and also from High Bridge, and when it is thronged with fine horses, in gallant rigs, it is one of the sights of the metropolis to any one interested in the subject of America’s special equine product, the trotter and pacer. Both are to be seen here in their highest degrees of development.1 CITY’S PARKS, DRIVES, MUSEUMS. 81 Drives. — Though it is pleasant to wander almost anywhere along the winding roads north of the Harlem, east of the flats of Morrisania, some special “drives” have been prepared and are followed by those who have the carriages to use upon them. The Southern Boul- evard starts from the north end of the Third Av. bridge and turn- ing east follows the line of the Westchester shore of Long Island Sound, then curving around returns to the westward and joins Central Av. at Jerome Park. It is wide, well kept, and commands at its southern end some fine views of the Sound. It has electric cars. Central Avenue begins at the north end of the Central Bridge, formerly called McComb’s Dam Bridge. It is reached by Seventh Av. at 155th St. It is a wide boulevard and the road-bed is kept in excellent condition. This is the fashionable drive of the city outside of Central Park, and every afternoon, and especially on Sunday, it is thronged with splendid horses. yy Nicholas Avenue.— This fine road was formerly Harlem Lane, and runs northwest from Central Park, alongside of the grounds of the Convent of the Sacred Heart, and thence to Ft. Washington, where it joins the King's Bridge Road, which you may follow thence to King’s Bridge across the Harlem, after which it runs into Broadway and extends to Yonkers. All these are good ’cycling roads. THE JUMEL MANSION —Washington Heights. Once Washington’s Headquarters.V. A TOUR OF THE CITY. What is the best route to take for a single day’s tour of the city of New York? Here is a question that might be debated a long time. Any manageable route is likely to leave out some specialties of interest; but the locality and route to such places are all to be found elsewhere in this volume. Bearing in mind the limitations of time to a single day, the following itinerary seems a good one, but it is not intended that the “tourist” shall halt anywhere more than a very few minutes, unless he is willing to begin the peregrination at an earlier hour than ordinary in the morning. Madison Square to Washington Square. Madison Square is at 23d St. and Fifth Av., in the center of the hotel district, and thus forms a natural starting point for the greater number of the strangers within our gates. Here Broadway slants across Fifth Av., making an open paved plaza, which is one of the most animated points in New York, especially in the afternoon when the shopping and pleasure-seeking people from up-town meet the business population from down-town at this cross-roads. The park itself measures about six acres in extent, between Fifth and Madison Avs., on the east; the latter street beginning here at 23d St., and extending uninterruptedly to 139th St. and the Harlem River — a perfectly straight line. Its trees have grown until they mantle the whole space with their shade in summer, when all day the park is filled with nurses and children and idle folk of every class; and in winter the shadows of the twigs beautifully tesselate the asphalt, as the strong rays of the electric lamps strike through the leafless branches. A spouting fountain occupies the middle of the Square, and at the southeast corner is a handsome drinking fountain, designed by Miss Stebbins, and given to the city by the late Catherine Wolfe. At the southwest corner sits Randolph Rogers’s statue of William H. 83A TOUR OF THE CITY. 83 Seward, at the southeast corner stands Ward’s statue of Roscoe Conkling, and at the northwest corner is Augustus St. Gaudens’s statue of David Farragut, the popular naval hero of the Civil War. This statue is the most artistic piece of sculpture in the city. It is of bronze, and is in the life-like attitude of the commander as he stands upon his quarter-deck, facing the gale and directing the movement of his ship, with the fervor of battle in his eyes and the decision of coming victory in his pose. The pedestal takes the form of an inviting bench, protected by a high curving back and orna- mented with inscriptions and emblematic figures in low relief. It was presented to the city by the Farragut Memorial Association. Nearly opposite, on the point between Fifth Av. and Broadway, the granite obelisk erected by the city in 1857 to the memory of Worth, the hero of the Mexican War, rises with simple dignity from the small enclosure in which he is buried. Madison Square was surrounded, only a few years ago, by fashion- able residences, some of which remain. The handsome home of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, the Madison Square Garden, and the Manhattan Club cluster at its northeast corner. West of it is the new building of the Appellate Division of the Supreme Court; the church below it is the Madison Av. Presbyterian — the pulpit of the Rev. Dr. Charles Parkhurst, the foe of corrupt politicians; and the magnificent marble pile on the corner of 23d St. is the central office of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company. Let us cross 23d St., in front of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, and walk down Fifth Av., which is here given up to trade. On the upper cor- ner of W. 21 st St. (it must be remembered that this avenue divides the cross streets into “east” and “west”) is the Union Club. The Lotus lived just opposite for many years, but its site is now covered by the new headquarters of the Baptist Church. A block below, southwest corner of 20th St., is the Methodist headquarters, and the Presbyterians are close by. The windows of book stores and the pub- lishing house of Rand, McNally & Co., on the northwest corner of 19th St., will attract our eyes. Chickering Hall formerly ornamented the northwest corner of 18th St., and opposite, covering the site of the old Belmont home, is the twelve-story Constable Building. The preva- lence of piano dealers and the great yellow “Judge” building at 16th St., devoted to publishing and allied trades, are noted before crossing the busy current of 14th St., when we find ourselves in a nest of makers of school books and apparatus. Private houses below 13th St. have84 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. been little disturbed, and nearly every one is, or has been, the home of some family whose name is familiar to the public. The church at 12th St. is the First Presbyterian, and the next the Church of the Ascension, containing a celebrated chancel painting1 by John Lafarge, and windows by Lafarge, Maitland, and others. The square, old-fashioned homestead on the northwest corner of 9th St. is the old Ray mansion, built about 1825. Eighth St. is here called Clinton Place, and is marked by the Brevoort and Berkeley hotels. The last block has several well-known residents—No. 8 was the home of the art connoisseur, the late John Taylor Johnston; at No. 6 live the Stewarts; at No. 2 dwelt ex-mayor Abram Hewitt, and at No. 1 William Butler Duncan. Washington Square to the Battery. The Washington Arch.— The visitor passes from Fifth Av. into Washington Sq. under the noble curve of the Centennial Arch, com- pleted in 1893, which has been exquisitely modeled in. marble at a cost of more than $250,000, after the temporary structure built there for the centennial celebration of the inauguration of the first president of the United States, w7hich took place in this city on May 1, 1889, with such memorable pomp and circumstance. It was paid for by popular subscriptions, mainly in small amounts, and almost wholly by residents of the city; and its sentimental and artistic value places it among the foremost objects of interest in the metropolis. The park at Washington Square is nine acres in extent, and occu- pies the site of the old Potter’s Field, wherein more than 100,000 bodies are buried. Later it was a military training ground, and a camp for volunteer troops during the late war. Its improvement is therefore more modern than the appearance of the grand elms would indicate. The north side of Washington Sq. is peculiarly impressive and interesting, from the style of the residences, many of which are still inhabited by affluent old families, too conservative and too much in love with past associations and with the beauty of the loca- tion to yield to the behest of fashion and move up-town. Many well- known literary men and artists dwell in this neighborhood. The old gray Tudor halls of the University of the City of New York, which contained so many interesting memories, will be missed from the western side of the square, where they have been replaced by a lofty modern structure, in the top of which the University has resumedTHE WASHINGTON MEMORIAL ARCH—Washington Square, at the begi nn ing of Fifth Avenue. Designed by Stanford White. 85 i86 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. its sessions while the lower floors are devoted to business. The region south of the square has fallen into the deepest social degradation, and is inhabited by a mixture of Italians, French, Negroes, and nonde- scripts, among whom the police know many habitual criminals. The Italian poor predominate among the crowds that throng here on pleasant evenings; and to this people the city owes the bronze statue of Garibaldi, which faces the fountain, and is the work of Giovanni Turini. It was in view of this degradation that the south side of the square was chosen as the site of the mission church and home erected there in 1892, as. a memorial to the Rev. Adoniram Judson, who was the first foreign missionary sent out from the United States. Its great yellow campanile dominates the square, and its parochial work penetrates to the most squalid corners of the dark neighborhood. From Washington Square we walk down South Fifth Av., through the French quarter, to the station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry. at Bleecker St., and take our seats in a train bound down-town. We alight at Battery PI. and can spare a few minutes for a stroll about Battery Park and a glance at Castle Garden, facts in regard to which may be read in the next chapter. This done, we will turn our steps up Broadway toward the commercial quarter and Wall St. Bowling Green to Wall Street. Bowling Green is a small oval of shrubbery in the triangular space at the foot of Broadway. It is the oldest park in the city, and was a market place in the early Colonial days of the Dutch town, whose nar- row and intricate streets w^ere laid out between it and East River. The English made a little park of it, and some of the best houses of pre-Revolutionary days overlooked its lawn. Here was erected that leaden statue of George III, which the spirited young Americans pulled down in 1776, and out of which, tradition says, they molded 42,000 bullets to fire at the red-coated subjects of the melted monarch — which was adding injury to insult. The lower end of the park is now ornamented by a bronze statue, excellent in design, of Abraham de Peyster, who, about 1700, was the principal merchant and most influential publicist in New York; he sits in a chair inscribed with symbolic bas-reliefs. The statue is the gift of his descendant, J. Watts de Peyster, and the artist was G. E. Bissell, whose statue of Watts adorns Trinity churchyard.A TOUR OF THE CITY. 87 “ On the site now occupied by Mr. Cyrus W. Field’s Washing-ton building [the enormously high structure west of The Green and fac- ing the Battery], No. i Broadway, Archibald Kennedy, the collector of the port, built in 1760, a large house, which successively became the headquarters of Lords Cornwallis and Howe, General Sir Henry Clinton, and General Washington, while Talleyrand made it his home during his stay in America. Benedict Arnold concocted his treasonable projects at No. 5 Broadway, and at No. 11, on the site of the Burgomaster Kruger’s Dutch tavern, was General Gage’s head- quarters, in the old King’s Arms inn. . . . South of the square, and on the site soon to be occupied by the new United States Custom House, the first governor of the New Netherlands, Peter Minuit, who had bought the Island of Manhattan from the Indians for $24, built Fort Amsterdam, a block-house surrounded by a cedar palisade.” Straight across from The Green, at the head of Whitehall St., the long, stately fagade of the Produce Exchange forms the most con- spicuous feature in the scene. This building is 300 by isofeejtin ground dimensions, 116 feet high to the cornice of the roof, and 225 to the top of the tower. It stands upon a foundation of 15,000 spruce piles, and is fire-proof throughout. The cost, including the ground, was nearly $3,200,000, and when the bonded debt is liquidated it will yield an income of $200,000 a year. The external material is brick and terra-cotta, and the style is modern renaissance of a beautiful order, surmounted by a massive campanile, and designed and exe- cuted by George B. Post, as architect. The Produce Exchange arose by degrees out of the habit of the merchants, from the earliest time, of meeting in the central market- place to traffic together and compare prices. In 1690 an exchange building was first erected, partly for their use, at the foot of. Broad St., succeeded in 1727 by an exclusive corn-exchange or market at the foot of Wall St. This was followed by other buildings more and more specially adapted to their needs, until finally the merchants united in erecting the Merchants’ Exchange, now used as the U. S. Custom House. But after a time a number of discontented members and outsiders, who were then doing business in flour and grain in the open air at the lower end of Broad St., organized and incorpo- rated a new association which set up for itself at the corner of White- hall and Pearl Sts., where Washington Irving had lived in his younger days. To this new center all the old members were finally obliged to come, and in 1868 the “ New York Produce Exchange ” was organized, and on May 6, 1884, the members took possession of this new “ temple of commerce.” The old Corn Exchange has been torn down, and in its place has arisen the Army Building. The membership has long since reached the limit, 3,000, and when a vacancy occurs, by death or otherwise, from $3,000 to $5,000 is paid at an auction among approved bidders for the vacated certificate.88 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Several large entrances admit to the corridors, where are a branch post-office, the offices of the Produce Exchange Bank, and several other corporations. Nine elevators are constantly running, and vis- itors may easily go to the foot of the tower, where they are permitted to ascend the stairways to its summit. If the visitor does not care for the Tower he stops at the Gallery floor, and passes into the balcony overlooking the “floor” of the Exchange. THE PRODUCE EXCHANGE — Whitehall, Beaver, and Stone Streets. Several other analogous business associations may be noted. Among them are: The Mercantile Exchange — butter, eggs, etc.— in Hudson St.; the Coffee Exchange, at Pearl and Beaver Sts.; the Cotton Exchange, (see below); the Maritime Exchange, in the Pro- duce Exchange building; the Metal Exchange, on Burling Slip; the Coal and Iron Exchange, 131 East 58th St.; the Real Estate Ex- change, 111 Broadway (see Harper's Magazine, November, 1888); Building Material Exchange, 11 Broadway, and the Horse Ex- change, whose great stables are at 50th St. and Broadway, and which acts in conjunction with Tattersalls, in London. Representatives of all these unite to form the Chamber of Com-90 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. merce, which was incorporated in 1770, and is the oldest commercial corporation in the United States. Leaving the Produce Exchange we walk eastward through Beaver St., originally a canal, leading into the greater inlet which penetrated what is now Broad St. Opposite the Exchange is a handsome gran- ite pile, which is the rear of the Welles building, whose still grander front of rose granite is at No. 18 Broadway. A cluster of Atlantic cable offices will attract attention. The narrow cross street is New, which leads northward to Wall. Its tall buildings are filled with commercial offices, and the sidewalks are crowded with “ curbstone ” brokers. The next street crossed is Broad, with the beautiful Morris building on the corner. Beaver St. suffers a “ jog,” and on the other side of Broad there comes suddenly into view ahead the great round front of yellow brick, and the conical red roof-tower of the Cotton Exchange, where all the dealings in cotton in the United States concentrate. Here William St. crosses and South William diverges; and on the wedge of land between the latter and Beaver is Delmonico’s restaurant, occupying a fine new building that replaces the old one where the original of this famous restaurant was known for so many years. The opposite corner is covered by the splendid building of the Corn Exchange Bank; and the fourth corner by a third magnificent structure in gray stone, built and occupied by the Farmers’ Loan & Trust Company. Beyond the Corn Exchange are seen the great Post building, and the new offices of the venerable Journal of Commerce, while northward Lords Court and the Dela- ware, Lackawanna & Western Railway offices carry the lofty line of walls to Exchange PI. and the rear of the Custom House. All of this notable group of new buildings are very lofty, very costly, and very comely in architecture, while their structure and interior arrangements and finish are of the most modern and highly finished character. A few steps farther on we run out of Beaver St. into Pearl St. at the point where it crosses Wall Street.— “In the neighborhood of old Ft. George, were clustered a number of the aristocratic families who, before the Revo- lution, had been accustomed to give the fas in fashion, such as the Delanceys, Livingstons, Morrisses, Bayards, De Peysters, Crugers, but for some years Wall St., where abode the Winthrops, Whites, Ludlows, Verplancks, and Marstons, had been running an even race with Pearl, getting ahead in the end, and holding precedence till Park PI. claimed the laurels. Cortlandt St. gained luster from the residence there of Sir John Temple, Colonel and Lady Kitty Duer, Major Fairlin, and Colonel and Mrs. Crawford, once Mrs. RobertBROAD STREET — Looking North from Beaver Street. 91 792 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Livingston. In Wall St. was to be found the very desirable board- ing bouse of Mrs. Daubenay, or Dabney, the great resort of Southern members of Congress. Broadway had been a pleasant bowery street until the great fire of 1776 swept through it, leaving desolation in its wake.” In the early Dutch days Pearl St. was the natural shore line (it owes its sinuosity to that fact — not to its having been a “ cow-path” as the story goes) and an estuary penetrated the length of Broad St. In 1652 the defenseless condition of the Dutch town led Governor Stuyvesant to prepare a fortified line of defense against a probable attack by Indians, not only, but from New England, where the English colonists were threatening the Dutch.( A line of palisades was planted from river to river (Pearl to Greenwich Sts.), just above the head of the Heere Graft (Broad St. inlet), banked up with earth and having a broad space within cleared for the convenience of the defenders. This “wall” rapidly decayed, but was repaired from time to time, and after the capture of the city by the English in 1663 . was substantially rebuilt and defended by stone bastions at the gates at Broadway and the East River, and by an “artillery mount” at William St. Meanwhile houses were built along the cleared space within the palisade. It finally was recognized as a street, naturally named Wall. Not until the beginning of the eighteenth century were any streets north of Wall laid out. All that tract was “ Damen’s farms,” as far north as “the Maiden’s Path ” (Maiden Lane), which “was a very ancient road, .... its course through a valley the easiest route of passage from the two great highways along the North and East River sides.” From the very first Wall St. became a choice thoroughfare in the growing town, where the best people lived, and it retained this char- acter, with little business intermingled (except toward the foot of it, where the slave-market stood) until after the Revolution. “The financial institutions of the city became concentrated here gradually, having been first drawn to the locality and then kept there for some time by the fact that nearly all the government buildings stood on the street. The City Hall was here before its removal to its present site; so were the courts, and the first Congress of the United States after the adoption of the Constitution assembled in a building which cov- ered the site of the present Sub-Treasury.” Now the name stands not only for the assemblage of great financial institutions which line its quarter-mile, but for the whole body of dealings in money and securities that go on in New York under the lead of the StockA TOUR OF THE CITY. 93 Exchange; yet the offices of the manipulators of the largest and most influential of the financial operations credited to “Wall Street ” are often several blocks away from that short avenue, whose paving stones might be replaced by gold bricks without exhausting the vaults of wealth and the world-wide resources the street represents. Let us note a few of the sign-boards. The even numbers are on the right-hand (northern) side of the street as we saunter up toward Broadway. At the next corner below used to stand the Old Tontine Coffee House, and the Tontine commercial building is now a monu- ment upon its site. At No. 80, just below Pearl St., is the Southern National Bank, and at No. 76 the Seamans’ Bank for Savings. The Sampson building is at No. 65, and at 62 the New York branch of the Nevada Bank of San Francisco; but insurance offices almost exclu- sively occupy the numbers from 72 to 56, together with many offices opposite them. In the Brown Brothers’ building at 59-61 are located, besides the offices of that distinguished firm of bankers, the New York branches of the Bank of Montreal, the Merchant’s Bank of Canada, and the Stock Agency of the Canadian Pacific Ry. This brings us to Hanover St., and to the U. S. Custom House, which occupies the whole block on the south side of Wall between Hanover and William Sts. The Custom House is a massive structure of granite, with an Ionic * portico sustained by fluted pillars of granite, and reached by a broad flight of steps, which together make an imposing effect. The interior is one great rotunda, covered by a dome supported upon eight columns of Italian marble, whose Corinthian capitals were carved in Italy. This was the “ floor ” of the old Merchants’ Exchange, for wffiich the structure was originally prepared; and it is now filled with an inner and outer circle of desks, occupied by those clerks with whom the public has most business. A bridge across Exchange PI. connects this rotunda with a second building where oth~r offices are; but there is nothing of interest to a casual visitor to be seen beyond the rotunda. Opposite the Custom House, at No. 54, is the lofty brick front of the Central Trust Company; at No. 52 are the City Bank, the Bank of British North America, financial agencies of several Northwestern railroad companies, the law offices of ex-Secretary Evarts and his partners, and several other important factors in commercial life. No. 50 is the abode of agencies for banks in China, and other large insti- tutions. The Bank of America’s big building across the street (No. 46) was completed in 1889, at a cost of $1,500,000. Then follows a cluster of very striking buildings lately erected, grand in their archi- tecture and magnificent in all their interior appointments, of which04 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YOkN CITY. the new Merchants and Manhattan Bank building is perhaps the most costly and imposing. The nine-story building of the United States Trust Co., at 43-45, cost about $700,000. No. 35 is the Wall St. wing of the great Mills building, erected some years ago by Senator D. O. Mills, one of the “ silver kings ” of California, at an expense of over $4,000,000. It has frontages of 175 feet on Broad St., 150 feet on Exchange PI., and 25 feet on Wall St., is ten stories in height, and has 330 rooms. The beauti- ful brown stone building opposite it (No. 36) is occupied by New England railways, etc. No. 29 is the old marble house of Drexel, Morgan & Co., and contains, besides the extensive offices of that firm, those of the Leather Bank. This brings us to the corner of Broad St., and into view just below on the left of the lofty double front of the Mills building, with its beautiful wrought-iron entrance, while on the right, the front of the Stock Exchange becomes conspicuous. Opposite the head of Broad St., on the right-hand side of Wall St., stand the Assay Office and the Sub-Treasury of the United States. The Assay Office, No. 30, is the oldest building in the street. It is of marble, and represents a handsome style, much in favor for public buildings a century ago. It is open to visitors from 2 to 4 p. m., and is well worth examination. “ Every operation is here carried on that is done in the Mint, except the actual stamping of the money. In the front are the offices of the assayer, and the room where crude bullion is received and paid for; and in the six-story building at the rear it is assayed, refined, separated, and cast into bars. Gold and silver are here to be seen in great profusion, the former generally in bars weigh- ing from 250 to 300 ounces, and worth from $5,000 to $6,000, and the latter in bars weighing about 200 ounces, and worth $250. The gold which is used in the arts is generally in thick square plates, worth from $100 to $800. The most noticeable curiosities are the hydraulic press, by which a great quantity of silver is compressed into a round body not unlike a milk-pan; the crystallizing vats, where the metal is subjected to the action of powerful acids, and the melting-room, where at intervals the gold and silver are poured off. From twenty to one hundred millions of crude bullion are here received and assayed in che course of a year.” The Sub-Treasury is the large Doric building of granite extend- ing from the Assay Office to Nassau St., and reaching through to Pine St. in the rear. It stands upon the site of the old Dutch City Hall and of the subsequent Federal buildings, where Washington was in- augurated first President of the United States, in 1789. The broad flight of steps is now broken by a pedestal bearing J. Q. A. Ward’s colossal bronze statue of Washington Taking the Oath, which was paid for by popular subscription, and unveiled in 1883. This building wasA TOUR OF THE CITY. 95 first erected for the Custom House, but was long ago outgrown and remodeled for its present purpose. “ Within there is a rotunda 60 ft. in diameter, the dome being supported by 16 Corinthian columns. Around this rotunda are ranged the desks of the various divisions of the Sub-Treasury. There are two large vaults for the storage of gold coin and notes on this floor, and the large vaults for the storage of silver are in the basement.” Near the Pine St. entrance are the two rooms devoted to the handling of gold and silver coin. More money is stored in this building than anywhere else in the country, except in the Treasury vaults at Wash- ington, and the majority of the money paid out by the General Government is by drafts upon this Sub-Treas- ury. Steel doors and shut- ters and a well-armed guard protect the treasure, and upon the granite roof are facilities for mounting a bat- tery of Gatling guns and otherwise protecting the building against assault. The street at the side of the sub-treasury. the Sub-Treasury is Nassau, which runs straight north to City Hall Sq. In this lower part it is occupied wholly by banking and commer- cial concerns, as also is Pine St. in the rear of the Sub-Treasury, where many insurance companies and other large institutions are located. Farther on, Nassau St. is devoted largely to picture stores, shops for the sale of stationery and office supplies, and a great num- ber of second-hand book-stores. At its upper end the lofty buildings are occupied principally by lawyers, and it finally emerges into “Newspaper Square.” It has lately acquired some very fine tall buildings, the most conspicuous and beautiful of which is that of the Mutual Life Insurance Company, filling the east side of the block between Liberty and Cedar Sts. The Sheldon building, corner of John St., and the Bank of Commerce at Cedar St., are noteworthy. Returning to Wall St., the latest new edifice is the narrow, twenty- story Gillender building, partly occupied by the Manhattan Trust Company, at the corner of Wall and Nassau Sts., opposite the hand- some Wilkes building, It was opened in May, 1897. Nos. 14-1696 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. are covered by a wing of the Schermerhorn building, owned by the Astor family, which is full of business men. The New York Stock Exchange, the oldest and most legitimate organization of brokers, own an estate at 15 Wall St., extending through to Broad, on which their new home is in course of construction. In the interim their business is carried on at the Produce Exchange. No one but a member is allowed upon the floor, and when it is remembered that $80,000 is paid for that privilege, the restriction is not to be wondered at. The hours are from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m., and members are forbidden to make any transactions except during those hours. The dealings are wholly in stocks, bonds, and other securities which have been recognized or ‘ ‘ listed ” by the Ex- change. The most prominent of these are represented byname upon iron standards scattered about the floor, around which the selling and buying of those particular securities goes on. A younger organization with similar purposes, is The Consolidated Petroleum and Stock Exchange, which has oc- cupied since April, 1888, a noble building with large accommodations for business, at the corner of Broadway and Exchange Place. It arose from a consolidation of various boards dealing in oil, mining and general securities, and began operations in 1875. It now does nearly as much business as the older board, and the scene from its gallery (the entrance to which is on Broadway) is often even more animated, since the stocks and bonds of oil and mining corporations are more fluctuating than those of railway and telegraph companies. The New Bank Clearing House, in Cedar St., a few doors east of Broadway, first occupied in January, 1896, is of marble, carved in all the profusion of the Italian renaissance, its window spaces set off by Corinthian pillars, and surmounted by an entablature bearing carv- ings of the arms of the city and other designs. This is, in many respects, the most beautiful building in New York. The rooms of the Clearing House Association, composed now of sixty-six banks, are on the upper floor beneath the skylighted dome. The ground floor is occupied by the Chase National Bank, whose offices are finished in marbles, gilded stucco, and artistic metal work. The great steel safe in the basement is made to hold 210 tons of gold, or about $105,000,- 000 in coin. No. 10 Wall St., at the head of New St., is the splendid Astor building, on the site of the First Presbyterian Church. The grand new yellow brick structure opposite (Nos. 9-11) is the Mortimer building. This brings us to the corner of Broadway, where rise the massive walls of the United Bank building. Here are the rooms of its jointpp[ ' irr IwitH r H Wt 111 mmmmm ns 191 III *11 mu in If* r?f - ill rr*7 ^ . BSf its mV PARK ROW BUILDINGS—13 to 21 Park Row — Our Highest Office Building.98 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. owners, the First National Bank and the Bank of the Republic; of several private banking firms, and of Southern and Western railways; and here General Grant had his offices during his brief and ill-fated career in the “ street.” Up Broadway to the City HalL Some of the noblest and costliest business structures in the city stand on Broadway below Wall St. At No. i is the exceedingly lofty Washington building (p. 94). Nos. 5 to 11 are now covered by the Bowling Green offices, a Hellenic-renaissance, light-colored,''sixteen- story building surrounding an open court. Its fagade, 235 feet high, is one of the most massive and imposing in the city; and its door- ways and details as well as its structure have an architectural excel- lence worthy of careful examination. This edifice and the ground it stands on (about 160 by 190 feet) are valued at $3,600,000. At No. 18, next above the Produce Exchange, the grand front of the Welles building appears. No. 26 is covered by the massive structure of the Standard Oil Company, and No. 29 by the ornate Columbia. At No. 45 the richly carved fagade and antique entrance of Aldrich Court will be admired, and the Consolidated Exchange is nearly opposite. Covering the numbers 64-68 is the lately erected home of the Manhattan Life Ins. Co., a double building of white sand- stone, fronting on both Broadway and New St., connected at the roof by a flying arch, and surmounted by a cupola containing the office of the U. S. Weather Bureau. In its rear rise the equally lofty domes of the Commercial Cable building, extending from New to Broad St. The dignified granite home of the Union Trust Company at No. 80, and the Tower at No. 50, are conspicuous buildings; the last named stands on a lot only 22 ft. wide, yet it runs up to 13 stories (167 ft.) and contains 120 offices. All of these, like most of those mentioned heretofore, are new, architecturally imposing, splendidly fitted within, and return a fair rate of interest upon the investment. This brings us to Trinity Church, surrounded by its historic churchyard and looking straight down Wall St. “Where Jews and Gentiles most are wont To throng for trade and last quotations— Where, hour by hour, the rates of gold Outrival in the ears of people, The quarter-chimes serenely told From Trinity’s undaunted steeple.” But this noble house of worship is fully described in the chapter onTHE CITY HALL, NEW YORK — In City Hall Park, between Broadway and Park Row, opposite Murray Street. 99100 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW. YORK CITY. Churches and need not be repainted here, further than to say that the churchyard and the church itself are open at all suitable hours to visitors. The climbing of the steeple used to be one of the “ things to do,” but now an equally good view of the city maybe had from the roofs of the Washington or Equitable buildings, or from the tower of the Produce Exchange, to each of which the visitor is carried by an elevator. The yellow office building north of the churchyard was erected by the trustees of the property; and the magnificent Em- pire Building, on the south, was built in 1898 on the site of the build- ing where Russell Sage had his famous adventure with dynamite. The American Surety Company's building, at Broadway aim Pine St., is one of the loftiest commercial edifices, 307 feet above the pavement and having twenty-one fire-proof floors, in addition to basements. The building was designed by Bruce Price; the site is nearly square, and the foundation extends seventy-two feet below the street. The street fagades are of granite and the rear walls of brick to the height of the fifteenth story, from which point granite is wholly used for facing all walls. The building contains about 500 offices. Express elevators run to the upper floors, and other cars give access to all floors. Just above is the Boreel building (No. 119), largely occupied by insurance companies, and directly across the way, at No. i2o, rises the palatial home of the Equitable Life Assurance Society, known far and wide as the Equitable building. The Equitable.— This towering and sumptuous structure should not be neglected by the sight-seer. Its broad ground-floor corridor runs straight through to Nassau St., and forms a brilliant arcade, paved, walled, and adorned with vari-colored marbles, and illumi- nated by electricity, along which elegant little shops and restaurants are arranged. The letter chute and pneumatic despatch tubes on this floor should be looked at, too. In the basement are a grand array of hydraulic pumps and other machinery, and the largest elec- tric lighting plant in the city devoted to a single establishment. Taking any one of the several elevators the visitor may be carried to the top story and ascend to the roof, where an extensive view of the city is obtained — a pleasure which no one ought to forego. Liberty St., one of the few that cross lower Broadway, and which is devoted largely to machinery depots; Cortlandt St,, leading down to the Jersey City ferry; Maiden Lane, the abode of jewelers, deal- ers in diamonds and gems, and the makers of instruments of precis- ion; Dey St., with the Western Union Telegraph Company’s build- ing on the corner, and John St., opening eastward, are crossed in succession as one walks on up Broadway. Out from the mass ofA TOUR OF THE CITY. 101 these streets rise certain very lofty and beautiful new buildings, of which that of the Lawyer’s Title Insurance Company, running through from 44 Maiden Lane to Liberty St., is especially note- worthy, particularly for the graceful finish of its roof and the carv- ing on its northern fagade. The Downing building, at 106-8 Fulton St., ought also to be noticed. The tall new building at John and Broadway, owned by the Corbin estate, is occupied by the Long Island R. R. Co., the Chatham and Corbin banks, etc. This brings us to Fulton St., named in honor of the man, who, if not wholly the originator, was certainly the practical inventor of the steamboat. It is an extremely busy street, all the way down to Ful- ton Market on one side, and to Washington Market on the other. The lofty home of The Evening Post, erected by William Cullen Bryant and his partners, stands upon the southeast corner, and begins the long catalogue of newspapers which congregate between here and the Brooklyn Bridge. The highly ornamented, tower-like build- ing of The Mail and Express stands opposite, with its larger face on Fulton St. The opposite block is occupied by old St. Paul’s and its churchyard, and the Astor House (see Hotels) fills the succeeding block. The Ann St. corner, where the Herald once stood, now supports the tall and ugly St. Paul’s building finished in 1897. Here, at the parting of the ways, the motley pile of the Post Office rears its huge bulk, with the City Hall in its rear. Broadway stretches northward west of it; to the right Park Row leads off at an angle toward Chatham Sq. and the Bowery. The rush and turmoil of traffic here are indescribable. At the very beginning of Park Row has risen one of the tallest business buildings of th^ city,' called the Park Row, thirty-three stories in height. The old buildings beyond are covered with the signboards of newspapers known all over the country. Beekman St. (named from that old farmer and tanner who owned all this region, and the “ swamp” besides, long decades ago, and founded one of the wealthiest of Knickerbocker families) strikes across Park Row, passes (by Mail St.) to Broadway and continues, under the name of Park PI., westward to North River. A few doors down Beekman is Temple Ct., the home of the Nassau Bank and of countless lawyers. O11 the other- side of Beekman the iron and stone mass of the Potter building rises skyward, and next beyond, covering the point between Park Row and Nassau St., is the Times building, grandly beautiful in architecture and notable in its construction, since the old building which it replaced was not taken102 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. down, nor the work of its occupants interrupted while the new walls arose around and far above them. At the head of Nassau St., and just across from City Hall Park, is Printing House Square, an open paved space in the center of which stands a statue of Benjamin Franklin, erected in 1872, after the design of Plassman and at the expense of Capt. De Groot, formerly a steamboat commander on the Hudson; while Ward’s statue of Horace Greeley is seated just in front of The Tribune. Around this limited space, within easy hail of one another, are published the Daily Tribune, Sun, Journal, World, Press, Times, News, and Staats Zeitung, while several other daily and weekly newspapers in foreign languages are issued within a quarter of a mile. Here is the news- paper center of New York; and these precincts are hardly less wide- awake and active at midnight than at midday. The cupola of the World building is open to visitors daily from 9 to 1. A notable addition to this towering group is the Tract Society’s new building, east of Nassau St., 24 stories in height, and framed of steel. Here is the entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge (see page 32), and, if this is your only opportunity to inspect the structure, it would be well to walk out a few hundred feet upon the promenade; or better yet, spare 15 minutes for a trip across it in the cars and return. In and Around the City Hall. This little spot of green, three-quarters of a mile above the Battery, which is called City Hall Square, and the fine building in its center, are interesting, not only as the place where the government of the city is conducted, but historically and architecturally. The Statue to Nathan Hale should not be overlooked. It is of bronze, by McMonnies, and stands in the southwest corner of the park, facing Broadway; and it is one of the most spirited and satisfactory statues in the city. It represents him ready for his heroic death. The surrounding park is all that is left of the ancient Commons, which extended northward to the “ Collect” or pond, beyond Duane St., where the Tombs now rears its grim quadrangle. Here stood the old “ bridewell,” the almshouse, the “ new” jail and a gibbet — all near Chambers St. The jail has been made over into the present Hall of Records — a brown stone building close to the bridge — but the others long ago disappeared. The rapid growth of the town, after the close of the Revolution, made it expedient to abandon the old City Hall in Wall St., and erect a newer and larger one, which, as public opinion decreed, must be placed in the Commons,PRINTING HOUSE SQUARE 103A TOUR OF THE CITY,. 105 The plans of architect John McComb were accepted in 1803, but it was not until 1812 that the building was really complete. The total expenditure upon it was less than $500,000. Marble was used for the front and ends; but no one urged anything better than brown-stone for the rear, since it was not supposed that anybody of any conse- quence would ever live north of this spot. In 1858 a spark from the fireworks, displayed from the roof at the celebration of the successful laying of the first Atlantic cable, set fire to the beautiful cupola, which was destroyed, and the low dome over the rotunda was dam- aged. These were clumsily replaced. A picture of the hall previous to that time, and of the architect’s drawing of the cupola, may be found in The Century for April, 1884, adorning an article upon this building, in respect to which the writer, Mr. Ed. S. Wilde, remarks: “ Notwithstanding this change, and the damage done less by time than by stupidity, the hall stands to-day unsurpassed by any structure of the kind in the country. The design is pure. No pains or research was spared. The capitals of the first [Ionic] and second [Corinthian] orders are marvels of execution. . . . The classic detail through- out is admirably wrought. . . . The principal elevations were undoubtedly those of Inigo Jones’s design for the palace at Whitehall, of which only the Banqueting House was built.” The City Government has its central administration in this build- ing, where are the offices of the Mayor, President of the Borough of Manhattan, City Clerk, and some other functionaries, and the meet- ing rooms of the Council and Board of Aldermen. Various munici- pal departments and bureaus have their offices elsewhere, but arrangements are making for the construction of a new city building opposite the northeast corner of the park. There is little to be seen inside the City Hall except the historic objects and paintings, mainly on public exhibition in the Governor’s Room. The Mayor s Office occupies the southeast corner of the building on the ground floor, and contains one of the most valuable of the city’s works of art—the large full-length portrait of Lafayette, painted by Prof. vS. F. B. Morse, afterwards inventor of the telegraph, during Lafayette’s famous visit to the United States in 1825; portraits of Mayors Paulding and Allen by Morse are also in this room, together with those of Fernando Wood, Phillip Hone, Kingsland, and other mayors, by Vanderlyn, Elliott, Inman, and other painters. The picture of Washington and his horse, hanging in the city clerk’s office, is unsigned, but is believed to be a poor specimen of Major John Trumbull’s work. The fine circular stairways in the rotunda are overlooked by the painted plaster original, presented in 1834 by Commodore Uriah106 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY, P. Levy, U. S. N., of David d’Angers’s statue of Thomas Jefferson, the, bronze replica of which is in the National Capitol. Immediately opposite the head of the stairway is the entrance to the Governor’s Room, a stately apartment stretching along the front of the building, intended and formerly used for civic banquets and ceremonial occa- sions, and the scene of some of the most noted social incidents in the early history of the municipality. The old-fashioned furniture, including relics from a dignified past, make the room stately; and its walls are hung with full-length portraits of governors of the State and national heroes, many of which are fine examples of American art. The equestrian “ Washington” here is by John Trumbull, after a small original (now in Baltimore), and was made in pursuance to a resolution in 1790 by the Common Council, “that the President of the United States be requested to permit Mr. Trumbull to take his portrait, to be placed in the City Hall, as a monument of the respect which the inhabitants of the city bear towards him.” Trumbull assures us in his Autobiography that “ every part of the detail of the dress, horse, furniture, etc., as well as the scenery, was accurately copied from the real objects.” The full-length of Gov. George Clinton, as he appeared at Fort Montgomery, is also by Trumbull, was painted in 1791, and has been pronounced by critics the best example extant of Trumbull’s method. The same painter did the portrait of Alexander Hamilton (1804); the splendid picture of Gov. Morgan Lewis, in his uniform as a major-general in the war of 1812 ; probably that of John Jay, and some others. Among others of the older painters represented in this room, or elsewhere in the city’s art collection (scattered through the municipal offices), are John Vander- lyn, Thomas Sully, Henry Peters Gray, George Catlin (the Indian painter), William Page, C. W. Jarvis, Thomas Hicks, and Henry Inman. Of more recent artists, the best known is Daniel Hunting- ton, a good example of whose work is the portrait of Governor Morgan. An interesting relic here, old and carefully painted, but of unknown history, is the head of Peter Stuyvesant. Two other ancient and noted pictures belonging to the city are hung in the office of the water register, in the Tract Society’s building; these are, a portrait of Hendrik Hudson, of unrecorded history, and one claimed to be that of Christopher Columbus, a copy of a picture painted in 1459, when Columbus was 23 years of age. The municipality owns many other portraits of distinguished men, which are scattered about various offices, and of which no authentic catalogue exists. Historic Objects in the Governor’s Room include the punch-bowl presented to the city by Gen. Jacob Morton in 1812, upon which are printed views of the commercial aspect of the city of that day anc/ an unnecessary injunction to the “ corporation ” to “ Drink deep;” a bust of De Witt Clinton; battle flags of the Civil War; and a desk used by Washington, and other furniture brought from the original State House in Wall St.A TOUR OR THE CITY. 107 The Aldermanic Chamber is a large room on this floor at the eastern end of the building, which has no ornaments worth attention, but which has a public gallery whence the often spicy “ debates ” of the City Fathers may be listened to. At the western end is the Chamber formerly devoted to the Council, a very handsome room adorned by portraits of Presidents Monroe, Jackson, and Taylor, by Vanderlyn, and of Fillmore, Clay, and Jefferson, by C. W. Jarvis. The County of New York was formerly coextensive with the city, but was abolished by the charter of the city in 1897. Its offices and courts were in the Court House, the marble building facing Cham- bers St., in the rear of the City Hall, whose erection was the occa- sion of much of the fraud and peculation on the part of the ‘ ‘ Tweed Ring/’ the investigation of which caused the downfall of that corrupt coterie of politicians in 1870. Here sit the various County Courts, several parts of the Supreme Court, and the Surrogate’s Court. Other civil tribunals have quarters elsewhere. The Criminal Courts have now a great building to themselves on Center St., connected with the Tombs Prison by an elevated and inclosed passageway spanning Franklin St., usually spoken of as the “ Bridge of Sighs.” This building is a handsome renaissance edifice of stone, red brick, and terra cotta, whose interior court is elaborately ornamented with carved marble and bronze. It contains not only courts, but the offices of the Streets Department and some other bureaus. Its inter- est to the visitor is confined, however, to the mural paintings of Edward Simmons, in the room of the Supreme Court, Trial Term, Part I, in the northeast corner, on the first floor. These are magni- ficent color-drawings covering the wall behind the judicial bench. The central one is America offering justice to the world; it is said that the countenances are those of the artist’s wife and children. On the right are the Three Fates — Clotho (youth), on the right, spins the thread of life from her distaff; Lachesis (middle age) twists and measures it in her hands; and aged Atropos cuts it off at death’s appointed time. The panel on the left is devoted to three male figures — Brotherhood uniting Science to Freedom. The drawing is powerful, and the use of color, especially the management of the white drapery, is exceedingly strong and admirable. They were made in 1895, under the direction of the Municipal Art Commission, which now controls all matters relating to the embellishment of the public buildings, the acceptance by the city of statues, etc. 8108 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The Tombs is a nickname of the city prison, suggested long ago by the gloomy architecture, which made it for many years one of the landmarks of the city. In 1898 it was rebuilt into a greatly enlarged form, but nothing remains of its picturesque exterior, which was perhaps the best example of Egyptian style in the country. This prison occupies the entire block bounded by Center St. on the east, Elm St. on the west, Leonard St. on the south, and Franklin St. on the north, but its really grand proportions are dwarfed by its situation in a hollow. The site was formerly occupied by the Collect, a sheet of water connected with the Hudson River by a strip of swamp called Lispenard’s Meadows (whence the name of Lispenard St.), through which ran a little rivulet, afterwards enlarged into a barge-canal, on aline with the present Canal St., which derives its name from this circumstance. “ This canal,” says Lossing, “was spanned at the junction of Broadway and Canal St. by an arched stone bridge which was subsequently buried when the ground was heightened by filling in and the canal disappeared.” This filling in was the first public improvement undertaken at. the close of the Revolution; the City Hall was then just rising and no buildings stood between its rear and the tanneries which bordered the swamp, where in winter merry parties went skating, and where, a little later, Fulton tested the models of his steamboat. The prison now covers the site of the pre-revolutionary gibbet, which was planted on a small island, and therefore stands upon ground long dedicated to the hangman’s use. Internally the prison is rather a series of buildings than a single structure. The cells rise in tiers one above the other, with a separate corridor for each row. Besides those awaiting trial in the Special Sessions and Magistrates’ Courts, persons accused or convicted of the more heinous crimes are kept here until they have been tried before the higher courts, or until they depart for the State Prison. Up Broadway and Across to Second Avenue. Having completed our sight-seeing in and around the City Hall, let us now take a cable-car on Broadway and ride up the central part of that great thoroughfare. A short time ago the buildings here would have called for little notice, much less, admiration; but within two years this part of the great thoroughfare has been adorned by some of the finest of the tall commercial structures which are making a towering new New York. The magnificentA TOUR OF THF CITY. 100 homes of the Postal Telegraph and Home Insurance companies, together filling the block between Murray and Warren Sts., have already been spoken of. Other very notable ones farther up the street, are the buildings of the Hide & Leather Bank, corner of Chambers, of the Mutual Reserve Fund, corner of Duane St., and the colossal structure of the New York Life Insurance Company at Worth St. Many less in size are handsome bits of architecture and a great improvement, outside and inside, over the past. We traverse the wholesale district nearly all the way, and pass a long line of railway offices and miscellaneous agencies, as well as many retail stores; while here and there a hotel, like the Broadway Central (the old Metropolitan is gone) attracts attention. Many widely-known names will be observed upon the signs, but a more noticeable feature of this — the dry goods and importing — district is the prevalence of foreign names. At East 4th St. we stop the car, and getting off, walk to the right (one block) into Lafayette PI., a .spacious street extending from Great Jones (E. 3d) St. to Astor PI.; in 1899 it was opened southward by a new street, and made contin- uous with the widened and extended Elm St. The great brick structure at the foot of the Place is a Roman Catholic home for street-boys, called the Mission of the Immaculate Virgin. It grew out of the unselfish labors of a priest, Father Drumgoole, whose statue, in bronze and of heroic size, stands at the corner of the building. It is said to contain a miraculous well-spring. On the next corner (E. 4th St.) the De Vinne Press is conspicuous; there is where The Centitry and St. Nicholas, and the fine publica- tions of the Grolier Club are printed. Diagonally opposite gleams the yellow and white gothic Diocesan House of the Episcopal Church; and the long line of Corinthian pillars beyond it mark Colonnade Row, the early home of the Astors and other great families of old New York. This is all that is left of the fine houses which a few years ago filled this quiet side street; but the massive brick and brown stone facade of the Astor Library still remains con- spicuous, and a moment should be spared by the tourist to enter and inspect its halls, its collection of portraits, of busts of ancient heroes and sages, and the enormous amount of literature displayed in the cases that line its walls. This brings us to the head of the Place, where the convergence of Astor PI. and 8th St. forms an opening, where, not so many years ago, was the southern boundary fence of the farm of Capt. Richard110 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Randall, the founder of the Sailor’s Snug Harbor on Staten Island. At the time of his death, in 1801, the large farm here, and his well- known octagonal house, were valued at about $40,000; this endow- ment was so invested as now to be worth about $15,000,000. Upon the wedge between Astor PI. and 8th St.," now occupied by the tall and handsome new structure of the Mercantile Library, stood until 1890 a noble brick structure called Clinton Hall. It was built as a theater, half a century ago; and at its doors in May, 1849, occurred the Astor PI. riot, precipitated by the rivalry between the Ameri- can actor, Forrest, and the English actor, Macready, which resulted in a mobbing ?£ the latter’s company and friends at the close of a performance. The very ungraceful statue in front of Clinton Hall was erected by the postmen of the city to the Hon. S. S. (“ Sunset ”) Cox, as a memorial of his championship of their claims before Con- gress; but, unhappily, their gratitude was not accompanied by artistic judgment. Many electric cars start in Astor Place for the Fourth Avenue and Second Avenue lines. Let us now turn to the right and walk eastward toward Second Av. Fourth Av. is at once encountered, looking down which to the right the upper end of the Bowery is seen. On the point of land opposite, between the divergence of Fourth and Third Avs. from the Bowery, is the pile of browh stone sheltering the schools and reading rooms of the Cooler Union, for which a moment may be spared (see p. 183). In front of this building, facing down the Bow- ery, stands a bronze sitting monument to Peter Cooper, modeled by Augustus St. Gaudens, and erected in 1897. Opposite the rear of the Union is the Bible House (see p. 173). Continuing along 8th St., we cross Third Av. underneath its elevated railway (9th St. station) and walk on past the short Stuyve- sant PI., which takes its name from that old Knickerbocker, the last of the Dutch governors. He owned the lands hereabout, lived 'in a big stone farmhouse on the Bowery, and was buried in 1671 at his chapel, just beyond, upon the site of which now stands St. Mark's Church (elsewhere described) within a green plat at the corner of 8th St. and Second Av. The large modern church beyond, facing us across the street as we come to Second Av., is the Baptist Tabernacle, whose latest pastor was the pugnacious Dr. Potter.A TOUR OF THE CITY. Ill Stuyvesant Square and Gramercy Park. We now turn tip Second Av. and find ourselves in a handsome thoroughfare, the houses along which (in this part) are almost wholly occupied by wealthy and influential Germans. On the corner of nth St. the building of the N. Y. Historical Society will be noticed, and two blocks further the N. Y. Eye and Ear Infirmary. At the left-hand corner of 14th St. stands the old Fourteenth Street Presbyterian Church. The house of ex-Senator William M. Evarts is at No. 231, on the opposite corner; and at 15th St., we find the beautiful Stuyvesant Square, occupying the space of four blocks, filled with fine old trees, and surrounded by elegant residences. This was a part of the Stuyvesant property, and its west side is bounded by Rutherford PI., keeping the name of another old family, whose descendants dwell near by. The double-towered church overlooking the square is St. George's (Prot. Epis.) which is said to have the largest seating capacity of any church in the city except the R. C. Cathedral. Beside it are the Rutherfold PI. Friends' Meeting House and school (Quaker)—plain brick structures without steeples or ornament. On this square remain many old New York families — the Fishs, Stuyvesants, De Voes, Rutherfords, and others. It is a charming dwelling place. Above Stuyvesant Sq. Second Av. grows more business-like; and leaving it we turn eastward and walk through E. 20th St., which in this block is mainly given up to private stables. We re-cross Third Av. under its “ L ” road, and presently come to the fashion- able seclusion of Gramercy Park. Gramercy Park, whose name commemorates the old Gramercy farm, is the property of the owners of the surrounding property, and its privileges go with their title-deeds. Its gates are opened only by these proprietors, and its pleasant walks are reserved for the nurses and children of the neighboring families. Here dwells an aristocratic colony of old and wealthy families, who have thus far withstood the advance of the commercial tide northward, among whom are many well-known persons. On this 20th St. side, at Nos. 116-118 was the home of the late Governor Samuel J. Tilden, a palace among palaces. Next to it, at No. 120, is the club-house of The Players, described under Clubs. Other residences are those of the late Cyrus W. Field, to whom we owe the Atlantic cables, and of the late David Dudley Field, the eminent jurist; of Mrs. Courtlandt Palmer, at whose house, during the life of her husband, the Nineteenth Cen- tury Club was wont to meet; of John Bigelow, Abram Hewitt, and the Coopers; of William Stein way, of piano fame, Nicholas Fish,112 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Brander Mathews, the dramatist, Joseph Howard, of newspaper repute, and many professional men. Irving PI. abuts upon the south side of the Square, and is continued northward from it to Harlem as Lexington Av. Union Square and Central Broadway. Let us walk on through E. 20th St., as far as Fourth Av. On this corner stands the red-and-white Church of All Souls, where Doctor Bellows used to preach, and at 18th St. the immense Florence — the largest of the down-town apartment houses, and one of the most elegant. One block more and we reach Union Square.— We enter it at its quietest (northeast) corner, where E. 17th St. crosses Fourth Av. The Everett House is on our right, and the Clarendon Hotel on the left. The Westminster is one block east, corner of 16th St. and Irving PI. A broad paved space, called The Plaza, borders this northern side, and may be illuminated at night by the picturesque row of lamps along the curbing. Here military parades and out-door meetings, especially those called by labor agitators, often occur, and in summer a flower market is held here every morning from 5 to 8 o’clock. Overlooking this plaza are the windows of The Century and St. Nicholas editorial rooms. The Square itself is an oval park of three acres or so, shaded by large trees, and ornamented by a handsome fountain and statues. On the Fourth Av. side are a row of hotels, restaurants, and shops. South of the Square runs the busy line of 14th St.—where the Union Square Theater, the Morton House, and several fine .shops are conspicuous. Here, in the midst of a paved space, stands the fine equestrian statue of George Washington. It is of heroic size, was modeled by Mr. H. K. Browne, and originally stood on the ground now covered by the Cooper Union. Straight against the southern end of the square breaks the whole traffic-current of Broadway, to swerve to the west of it (“ Dead Man’s Curve ”) and sweep along its further side, where 14th St. adds its quota. Here, where the crowd is densest, has been placed H. K. Browne’s bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln, seated in the chair of state with the emancipation proclamation in his hand, which was erected by popular subscription soon after Lincoln’s assassination. Facing down Broadway stands the life-size figure of Lafayette, which was designed by Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Liberty statue in the harbor, and erected in 1876 at the cost of the French residentsUNION SQUARE—Looking Northwest from corner Fourth Avenue and Fourteenth Street. 113114 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of the city; and a handsome bronze drinking- fountain is among the ornaments on the west side of Union Sq. The quaint marble one, by the late Olin Warner, formerly here, has been taken to Central Park. A Walk Through the Shopping District.—The central shopping district is comparatively small and well defined. It may be said to begin at 8th St., where Daniell’s drygoods store occupies nearly a whole block along Broadway. Just above it another entire block is taken up by the large bazaar of John Wanamaker, occupying the iron building erected by A. T. Stewart and used until 1896 by his suc- cessors. The Vienna Model Bakery, Grace Church, Goodyear’s Rub- ber House, and St. Denis Hotel follow to 12th St. whereone of the Ilackett, Carhart Co.’s stores stands. Opposite are widely known stores for the sale of foreign books, umbrellas, and Austrian bent furniture. Millinery goods and clothing houses, a well-known lamp-fixture house, and the Morton House bring us to Union Square. Continuing up Broadway, east of the Square, the stroller passes the Lincoln and Spingler buildings, and then Tiffany’s great store- house of jewels and articles de vertu, on the site of the Church of the Puritans, famous as Doctor Cheever’s previous to 1870. Passing next several well-known music stores, we enter upon the ‘ ‘ ladies’ half mile. ” Just beyond the corner of E. 18th St. is the great oriental bazaar of Vantine & Co. Between that and 19th St. Arnold & Constable’s dry ABRAHAM LINCOLN—14th Street.A TOUR OF THE CITY. 115 goods house nearly fills the block on the left, with Sloane’s carpet house on the right. All along here jewelers, fruit sellers, and other shops make a brave window show. Opposite is the Gorham Silver Company, and Lord & Taylor’s immense establishment on the left. In the next block (20th to 21st Sts.) the Conti- nental Hotel and Purssell’s bakery and restaurant nearly fill the space on the right, and on the left is a row of gay shops, and one of Park & Tilford’s big grocery stores. At 21st St. Broadway begins to widen out, and is filled on both sides with the offices of many railway and express companies, telegraph stations, etc. Twenty-third Street has of late years become a street of impor- tant shops. In the neighborhood of Fourth Av. are gathered the principal makers of optical and surgical instruments. Along the south side of the street, eastward toward Broadway, are many book stores, picture stores, and places for the sale of art objects, photographs, and “collectors’ ” postage stamps. The block between Fifth and Sixth Avs. is filled with rich shops. On the north side are, among others, the well-known book stores and publishing offices of George Putnam’s Sons and E. P. Dutton & Co., and several great furniture shops, besides the Eden Musee and the Masonic Temple—the latter at the corner of Sixth Av., with two prominent banks on the ground floor. The south side of the street is a line of department and special stores, of which the most noticeable are those of Stern Brothers, covering a dozen numbers; Le Boutillier Brothers, James McCreery, and John Goodwin, Burt's shoe store, the children’s supply house of Best, and McCutcheon’s linen shop. West of Sixth Av. this street contains many minor shops, some theaters, and a long line of handsome resi- dences, which, however, are rapidly disappearing because of the trade attracted by the new importance lately given to the ferries of the Pennsylvania and Erie railroads at the foot of the street. Sixth Avenue from some distance above 23d St. down to 14th St. is, perhaps, the most crowded shopping district in the city, the prices of goods there being somewhat cheaper on the average than else- where in the central district. Here is a series of widely known “de- partment stores,” where almost everything one can need in ordinary life may be bought under one roof. Such are Ehrich’s, at the corner of 23d St.; Adams’s, filling the block from 22d to 21st, with Hall’s furniture store and others opposite; O’Neill’s, stretching from 21st to 20th, opposite the Church of Holy Communion ; Cammeyer’s and116 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Alexander’s shoe houses on the left, and Simpson, Crawford & Simp- son’s establishment on the right, filling the space to 19th St.; Siegel, Cooper & Co.’s enormous bazaar takes up the next block on the left, with Altman’s fine store opposite; several large furniture shops stand between 17th and 16th Sts., east of which, on the south side of 16th St., appear the stately fagades of St. Joseph’s (Jesuit) Church, and the St. Xavier College, in the rear of the Greenwich Savings Bank; beyond this, Bauman’s and Little’s stores are the largest among many stretching to 14th St. It is as much as any one can do to make his way along this street on a pleasant afternoon ; and as the holiday season approaches the crowd, mainly of women and children, on all these sidewalks, becomes too dense for any one’s comfort, but it is highly picturesque. Fourteenth Street, like 23d, is not of much importance to shoppers, west of Sixth Av.; it contains one of the older theaters, the fortress-like armory of the Ninth Regiment, the headquarters of the Salvation Army, and some stores and residences. East of Sixth Av. the north side of the street is largely occupied by the old- fashioned mansion and grounds of the Van Buren estate, the city home of the family and descendants of President Martin Van Buren, though that statesman himself never inhabited it. The New York Hospital is seen behind it on 15th St. Beyond Fifth Av. (where 25 years ago the northeast corner was “ Delmonico’s ”) the north side of the street is crowded with small agencies, among which those of piano firms predominate . The south side of 14th St. is one of the busiest in New York. Macy’s widely known bazaar — the oldest of the city’s department stores—occupies the corner of Sixth Av. Walking toward Broad- way we pass lesser copies of it in Calahan & Morrisey’s, Rothen- berg & Co.’s big establishments, besides many special stores, such as two dealing in dress patterns, one in wigs, others in gloves, or corsets, or jewelry of a certain kind, etc. They continue between Fifth Av. and Broadway, where Dobson’s carpet house and the Kumfurt Company’s shoe store are most prominent; and this broad sidewalk is often a living mass of bundle-carrying people. ^ Other shopping districts are upper Broadway and Fifth Av. for pictures, jewelry, objects of art, carriages, saddlery, fine millinery, and the goods generally which men and women of wealth buy fofSIXTH AVENUE—Looking North from Fourteenth Street Station of Elevated Railroad.118 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. themselves and their homes. Grand St., Third Av. about 59th St. and upper 8th Av., on the other hand, are the favorite shopping regions for persons of small means in those neighborhoods. Good stores are to be found far uptown, too, as along 125th St., in Harlem, and on Columbus and Amsterdam Avs., so that the parallelogram traced above is by no means the only “shopping district” in this great city. In Brooklyn the principal stores are along Fulton St. for half a mile above the City Hall, and on Broadway in the eastern district. A Ride Up Fifth Avenue. Crossing Madison Square, described in the beginning of the pres- ent chapter, we stop one of the Fifth Av. stages, and, climbing to a seat upon its roof, prepare to enjoy a ride up America’s grandest street. “ Fifth Avenue,” to quote a recent eulogist, “ is the Belgravia of the American metropolis, the center of its fashion and splendor, the home of its merchant princes. Many of the structures in this long line of costly domiciles possess marked beauty of architectural design, and all are built in fine massive blocks and chiefly of brown stone. Here, indeed, on every side are gorgeous club houses, churches not- able, for their beauty, and a domestic architecture of rare variety and comfort, with picture galleries and rich porticos, and long vistas of Connecticut brown-stone palaces, the homes of incalculable wealth and splendor. . To describe in detail the many objects of interest to be seen on this avenue would require more space than we have at command. It has been appropriately said, that an inquisitive visitor should, on taking a stroll up Fifth Av., be accompanied by a herald- at-arms, a mercantile register, an dlite directory, and a wise old club- man with his stores of personal and family gossip.” The buildings long occupied by Delmonico’s and as the Brunswick Hotel are beside us as we start, while the old Victoria Hotel is on the south west corner of 27th St. The Reform Club is on the right at northeast corner of 27th St.; and all along the street in this neighborhood will be noticed shops for the sale of pictures, bric-a-brac, fine furniture, foreign books, and fashionable costumes and millinery. On the northeast corner of 29th St. is the house of the “swell” Calumet Club, on the southeast corner the Knickerbocker Flats, and on the northwest corner the imposing stone Collegiate (Dutch Reformed) Church (See Sunday) ; this church was organized in 1623, but the present building dates from 1854 ; and next to it is seen the palatial Holland House hotel. The Knicker-A TOUR OF THE CITY. 119 bocker Club is on the northeast corner of 326., and opposite on the left, where formerly were the houses of the late John Jacob Astor and of William Waldorf Astor, rise the magnificent united hotels, Waldorf-Astoria. This Hotel, completed in November, 1897, covers nearly a third of a block, and is sixteen stories (250 feet) in height. It contains over a thousand guest rooms, and its public rooms are among the most pa- latial in the world. The entrances are on 33d and 34th Sts.—the latter having covered carriage-ways of iron and glass, reminding one of the Continental Hotel in Paris. The corridors, parlors, and re- freshment rooms on the ground floor display an exquisite combi- nation of Russian and Italian marbles, stained glass, and wood carv- ing, are furnished with taste as well as richness, and are adorned with paintings by C. Y. Turner. Certain apartments, usually to be seen upon request at the office, are especially noteworthy. The “Astor Gallery,” at the head of the main stairway, is one of these. It is a small ball room that faces 102 feet on 34th St., and follows in decoration and furnishing the famous ball room of the Hotel Soubise of Paris. The artistic features of the room are the twelve panels, painted by Edward Simmons, which depict the four seasons and the twelve months. The Louis XVI “ Myrtle Room ” adjoins the Astor Gallery on the east, and is designed for weddings and similar occa- sions. A “Colonial” diningroom is near by. The Ball Room, where many public entertainments, concerts, lectures, etc., are given, is a room with a double tier of gallery boxes able to seat over 1,200 auditors ; and its foyers and attached promenades add to its appear- ance of roominess. It is elaborately, but not gaudily, decorated, and is spanned by a lofty canopy which has been painted by Edward H. Blashfield, who decorated the dome and ceiling in the Congressional Library. There are more than forty figures, representing “ Music ” and “ The Dance,” all more than life size. In some twenty oval and circular panels on the walls are paintings by Will H. Low, depicting national music. The roof becomes in summer an open-air restau- rant and promenade. Murray Hill.— This name is applied to all the elevated region cov- ering several blocks in this neighborhood, where, twenty years ago, was clustered that fashionable class which now is usually designated ‘ ‘ the four hundred. ” It took its name from the mansion (‘ ‘ Incleberg ”) and family of Robert Murray, an eminent Quaker merchant of the Revolutionary period, and father of the grammarian, Lindley Mur- ray. It was his patriotic wife, who, by her personal charms, conver- sation, and wine, detained the British officers here on the day they crossed over from Long Island long enough to allow Putnam to pass safely by with the remnant of the American army, hidden by inter- vening woods, and join Washington’s forces on Harlem Heights. This mansion is said to have stood close by where 37th St. now crosses the avenue.no handy guide to new york city.., Where the Italian-looking palace of white marble, upon a terrace at the left, the mansion built and occupied by A. T. Stewart, until recently stood, is rising a palatial home of another sort, that of the Knickerbocker Trust Company. The small building next beyond, is a gallery for the exhibition and sale of pictures, etc.; and next beyond that (southwest cor. 35th St.) is the house of the New York Club. The block between 36th and 37th Sts., on the right, is taken up by the house of Pierre Lorillard. On the left, the beautifully carved front of the Engineers' Club (formerly the home of J. C. Drayton) at No. 374 will attract admiration ; the St. Nicholas Club is on the southwest corner of 36th St., the Brick Church (formerly Dr. Van Dyke’s) on the left. No. 435 is the club house of Delta Kappa Epsilon, and at the corner of 39th St. rises the very con- spicuous front of the Union League Club. The only remaining house on that block is the splendid home of Fred. W. Vanderbilt, No. 459. At 450 is the Republican Club, and the next two blocks on that (left-hand) side, from 40th to 42d Sts., are given up to the old Distributing Reservoir and Bryant Park, where the Crystal Palace stood in 1857, and where the Public Library will be built. Forty-second St. is the great thoroughfare east and west of this middle part of the town, and the massive walls and roofs of the Grand Central Depot will be seen at the right. A little this side of it, at Madison Av., is seen the lofty Manhattan Hotel, whose spacious office and lobby are well worth turning aside to look at for the sake of their inlaid marbles and the exceedingly interesting wall paintings by Charles Y. Turner. On the diagonally opposite corners of Fifth Av. and 42d St. are the Bristol Hotel and the handsome Columbia Bank—the latter a creation of the architect Richardson. At 506, next beyond the Bristol, is the city house of Russell Sage, and opposite him, on the northeast corner of 43d St., stands the beautiful Synagogue Emanu-El, the leading Hebrew congregation. The Century's new club house is conspicuous at the left, in W. 43d St. The corners of 44th St. are filled by the new Delmonico’s (on the right), and the equally new eleven-storied Renaissance Building, for similar purposes, of his modem rival, Mr. Sherry; both were erected in 1897. The church on the southwest corner of 45th St. is the Divine Pater7iity (Rev. Chas. H. Eaton), and that diagonally oppo- site, with the angels upon the four corners of the tower, is the ChurchRESIDENCE OF CORNELIUS VANDERBILT—Fifth Avenue, Fifty-seventh to Fifty-eighth Street 121122 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of the Heavenly Rest (Rev. D. P. Morgan). The Windsor Arcade, headquarters of the Jockey Club, fills the block from 46th to 47th Sts., opposite which lives Miss Helen Gould, at the southwest corner of 47th; while H. B. Plant, the southern railroad magnate, lives at No. 586, and Robert GoeletatNo. 591, with Ogden Goelet close by (No. 608); and Mrs. Roswell P. Flower occupies No. 597. The beautiful church on the left, with flying buttresses, is the meeting house of an- other congregation of the Collegiate (Dutch Reformed) Church, and was erected in 1872. The Belgravia Apartments and Buckingham Hotel occupy the next block on the right, and the Cathedral (which see) fills the block from 50th to 51st Sts., next beyond. The marble buildings in the rear are the residence of the Archbishop, and the Rectory, where his assistants dwell. On the left-hand side, at No. 616, lives Mrs. Daniel Butterfield, opposite the Democratic Club (No. 617), the social headquarters of Tammany Hall politicians; at No. 622, the comedy singer, Francis Wilson; and at No. 634, D. O. Mills, the California millionaire; and then come “ the Vanderbilt houses.” The first of these, on the northwest corner of 51st St., is where Wm. H. Vanderbilt lived, and where his widow is still domiciled; connected with it is the second (No. 642), extending to 52d St., which is the home of Mr. Vanderbilt’s daughter and her husband, Wm. D. Sloane. On the other side of 52d St. (No. 660), is the home of W. K. Vanderbilt, former president of the New York Central Ry. and present head of the house. Mrs. Osgood, a sister, lives at No. 697 Fifth Av., and Mrs. Elliott Shepard, another sister, at No. 2 W. 52d St. Just beyond the Cathedral formerly stood the R. C. Orphan Asylum, but its site is rapidly filling with new and elegant private residences. St. Thomas Church occupies the northwest corner of 53d St., and has much to interest the stranger for a few moments in its handsome interior, where the memorial windows are peculiarly fine, and the chancel is adorned by an altar of inlaid marble. Behind it is a series of bronzed plaster bas reliefs by A. St. Gaudens, flanked by two large wall paintings by John Lafarge, that on the right repre- senting the three Marys going to Christ’s tomb (Luke xxiv), and that on the left the story of Mary Magdalen (John xiv). The altar is a memorial to the former rector, Dr. Wm. F. Morgan, whose bronze bust is displayed. The reading desk and the Harper memo- rial are fine examples of wood-carving. At 54th St. are the houses of Ex-Gov. Levi P. Morton and of Wm. Rockefeller (No. 689), officers ofCOLUMBUS MONUMENT AND PLAZA — Broadway and 8th Ay, and 59th St entrance to the Park. The greatest surface line exchange point in the city. 9124 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. the Standard Oil Company, filling the two corners on the right, while the late Calvin S. Brice dwelt at 693, opposite the new house of the University Club (northeast corner of 54th St.), a lofty and dignified edifice of granite, occupying what formerly was the pretty dooryard of St. Luke’s Hospital. The beautiful house on the southwest corner of 57th St., set back from the street in a depressed space, is the home of Harry Paine Whitney. The next objects of interest are the late C. P. Huntington’s great stone house (which is said to have cost $4*000,000 — one staircase of Mexican onyx costing $300,000), at E. 58th St., and the costly and spacious chateau-like mansion of Cor- nelius Vanderbilt, filling the breadth of the Square between W, 57th and W„ 58th Sts. The well-known yachtsman, William Iselin, lives at No. 745, and the New Club is at 747. This brings us to the Plaza, at the entrance of Central Park, where the great Plaza Hotel on the left, and the lofty Savoy and New Net her l and hotels on the right, form a conspicuous trio of modern buildings. The avenue now overlooks the most improved portion of the park, and at the left, down 59th St., can be seen the tall and handsome facades of the De Navarro row of apartment houses, described below. On the right the noble marble house of the Metropolitan Club (which is called the “Millionaire’s” Club on account of the great wealth of all its members) attracts the eye ; and beyond it the line of beautiful mansions continues, becoming more varied and inter- esting in architecture as we proceed, for all are the houses of people locally prominent in business, politics, or society. The great chateau-like residence next to the Metropolitan Club is that of Elbridge T. Gerry, commodore of the New York Yacht Club and president of the “ Children’s Society.” On the corner of 63d St. is the yellowish building of the Progress Club — a Jewish social organization. Mr. Crocker, the San Francisco millionaire owns the splendid new house standing with its end to the avenue on the upper side of 64th St.; and the magnificent French roofed double house, with the glass canopy over the entrance, is occupied by Mrs. John Jacob Astor and Mrs. William Astor, whose drawing rooms may be thrown into one by opening sliding doors. This is on the upper corner of 65th St.; and the next upper corner is the site of the stately house of H. O. Havemeyer, one of the “ sugar kings,” marked by its conical roofs. Perry Belmont dwells close by, at No. 855, and next door to him, in an ornate home on the southern corner of 67th St.,A TOUR OF THE CITY. 125 lives George Gould. Two very large, costly, and comfortable-looking residences fill the corners of 68th St.; the lower one, with a balustrade about the roof-edge, is that of Charles T. Yerkes, the street-railway operator of Chicago and elsewhere, and the other that of ex-Secre- tary William C. Whitney. Grand and varied houses succeed one another to Seventieth St., where the Lenox Library fills a whole square ; it is described elsewhere. On the park side of the street, opposite the Library, stands the bronze bust of Richard M. Hunt, modeled by Daniel C. French, and erected here, in a granite portico, by the Fine Arts Societies of New York, in 1898, as a memorial to the talented architect and artist who died in 1894. Seventy-second street is a remarkable vista of palaces, ending at Madison Av. in the big, quaint, brown brick house, built by Louis C. Tiffany. The synagogue of the Beth-El Congregation occupies the space between 75th and 76th Sts. This brings us to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Fifty-ninth Street has always been one of the most important of the cross-town streets. It is the route of the Belt Line street-cars, which form an important transfer connection with many north and south lines from river to river. The intersection of Third Av. and 59th St. is an important shopping district for the upper east side; at Madison Av. are the Lenox Lyceum and other interests; at Fifth Av. it crosses the Plaza, passing the Netherlands, Savoy, and Plaza Hotels and the principal entrance to Central Park, then passes along the southern end of the park past a line of notable buildings from Fifth to Seventh Avs.—a celebrated school for boys, the Catholic and German and club houses, and the fine new house of the New York Athletic Club at the corner of Sixth Av. Here is a terminus of the Ele- vated Railway, and a park gate, adorned by a bronze statue of Tho^ waldsen. Between Sixth and Seventh Avs. stands a splended series of apartment houses in pseudo-Spanish architecture, named “ Madrid,” “Cordova,” “Granada,” “Lisbon,” etc. Their exterior, with Moorish arches, Arabasque ornaments, and indented balconies, is worth careful notice, and their interiors are as magnificent as they are convenient— and expensive. Many other of the finest of the city’s apartment houses are in this neighborhood, or within sight along the western border of the park. At Eight Av. the street is lost in Columbus Plaza, with its rostral column, where Broadway comes in diagonally and the boulevard begins.12(5 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. No great city in the world is so grandly situated with reference to the sea and navigable rivers as is New York. Other cities and sea- ports have beautiful, hill-girt harbors, as Yokohama and Rio Janeiro; other cities stand at the mouth of broad rivers, as New Orleans, Alex- andria, and Shanghai ; other cities spread, like Constantinople, along the curving shores of a strait, protected from the fury of the outer gales ; but only New York combines all these advantages in her in- sular site, under a beauty of landscape arrangement all her own and the admiration of the world. The horizon seen from her roofs is the blue Atlantic. The harbor, pleasingly irregular in outline, studded with islands, girt by low hills, and encompassed by cities and villages that glow brightly in the sun- shine, and at night form a galaxy of brilliants, lacks only the snows of Fujiyama, or the broken towers of the Organ Mts., to surpass Rio or Yokohama. The East River is an American Bosphorus, lead- ing from the sea to Long Island Sound; and the Hudson River (in connection with the Erie Canal) forms the water highway for a com- merce geographically as extensive as that of the Mississippi, the Hoang-Ho, or the Volga. It would be possible to embark in a canoe at the Battery, and never leaving it, save for an occasional short “carry,” to float to the borders of Alaska. Three grand divisions of this chapter present themselves — The Hudson or North River, the East River, and the Harbor. The North River Water-front.— The available water-front of New 120THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 127 - -«•"----------------------- )ROUGH - View from North River York on the Hudson is said to be no less than 13 miles ; at present, however, there is little commerce, and only an occasional temporary wharf, above 23d St. The water-front (nominally Twelfth Av.) above that is mostly given over to lumber and stone yards, factories, etc., which receive and discharge their heavy materials either from vessels or from the cars of the Hudson River R. R., whose line passes along the water’s edge from Spuyten Duyvil to 30th St. Washington Heights and Manhattanville occupy the elevated shore with pleasant residences down to the Ft. Lee ferry. Between 128th and 72d St., Riverside Park and Drive beautify the bank. At 42d and 34th are ferry and steamboat landings, and a few irregular piers are scattered along, broken again by the 23d St. ferry-landing, near which many steamboats touch or depart, and a few of the ocean steamships have their docks. This region is known in police circles as Hell’s Kitchen. Ocean Steamers.— The scenes daily enacted at one or another pier when the great ocean steamships are about to sail (Saturday is the special day) are well worth the attention of a visitor from the interior, to whom anything connected with the sea is interesting. The wharf and the ship are thronged with passengers and their friends, floral offerings from those who stay behind load the cabin tables, baggage is being stored with much noise, the roar of escap- ing steam adds to the uproar, carriages are constantly arriving and departing, peddlers shout their wares, and all is hurry-skurry until the gang-plank is drawn in and the steamer swings slowly out into the stream, amid cheers from the assembled crowd, and answering shouts from the passengers. It is well worth while to pay a visit to one of the “ ocean racers.” The greatest luxury in the fitting and furnishing is the rule on the steamers of the great lines. The table is supplied with every deli- cacy. There are superb smoking, card, and retiring rooms, electric bells with which to summon well-trained waiters, and the electric128 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. light is now in common use. The transatlantic steamers have flush uecks with these accommodations below, but the coastwise steamers as a rule have cabins on deck, and are between a steamship and a river steamboat in appearance. From Canal St. down to Cortlandt, the water-front is largely- devoted to domestic transportation and freight lines, and the ware- houses and sheds are monopolized by the produce and supply trade of the city. Flour, meal, butter, eggs, cheese, meats, poultry, fish, and fruit, are poured into this “lap of distributive commerce ” by New Jersey and the counties lying along the Hudson River, to be sold and re-sold in Washington Market (q. v.). The piers are all numbered, Pier One being a noble stone structure, covered with a great iron shed, close by the Battery, which is reserved by the city for public uses, and becomes in summer a public pleasure resort. The front street here is West St. It is filled for the most part with old and mean buildings, devoted to drinking saloons, eating houses, ship chandleries, and small clothing and provision stores, with many tenements in the upper part. The Belt Line of surface cars runs along the water-front from the Battery to 59th St., and from them can be seen all that one would ordinarily desire of this waterside. East River and Long Island Sound. Above Hellgate.—The East River is, in reality, only a tidal strait cutting off Long Island and connecting New York Bay with Long Island Sound. As you approach it from the Sound — generally — early in the morning the points and bays of the converging shores bewilder one, and it is hard to say where the Sound ends and the River begins. All along the mainland, from New Rochelle, some twenty miles above Hellgate, islands succeed one another and hide the real shore, which, however, is low and uninteresting. The first one (off New Rochelle harbor) is David's Isla7id, where extensive hospitals were erected during the late war. Subsequently the island was purchased by the United States, and made a sub-depot for the reception of recruits. It is now a fortified infantry post, named Fo7't Slocum, and can be reached by boat from New Rochelle. Next comes Glen Island, which has been fitted up by J. M. Starin as a pleasure resort, intended especially for ladies and children and small picnic parties who go out in the morning and return in the evening by steamboat; every sort of innocent amusement possible at such a place has been provided and the resort is a great favorite. Boats run back and forth every hour or two, in summer, between theTtiE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 1&9 island and the foot of Cortlandt St., N. R. Several other islands, not notable, hide the shore of Pelham and Chester, while on the left Sand's Point, bearing a light-house, juts out from the bluff Long Island shore. Just beyond it is the deep indentation of Manhasset Bay, in front of which lies Hart's Island, the potter’s field for the city of New York, and the site of a lunatic asylum and several other branch establishments of the city’s charities; more than 2,000 unknown or pauper dead are buried there every year. City Island, between Hart’s and the Westchester shore, is a pretty spot, inhabited by farmers, boat-builders, and fishermen, notable as the place where American oyster culture first began. Great Neck now forms the Long Island shore in the shape of a headland on the left, falling away into the deep indentation of Little Neck Bay, famous for its clams. On the farther side of this bay is the projection of Willet's Point, nearly meeting the long, low peninsula from the mainland called Throg's Neck. The reader must examine the map to understand thor- oughly this itinerary, and must read Irving’s “ Knickerbocker” to get the wealth of old traditions, and the histories of this region for the soberer facts that belong to it. Willet’s Point is a station for the En- gineer Corps of the U. S. Army, whose fortifications crown the bluff. “ Torpedoes—Don’t Anchor ” is a signboard that may be read clear across the narrow strait which is the real entrance to the East River, and refers to the explosives that stud the bottom of the channel as a part of our coast defense. On the top end of Throg’s Neck are the batteries and encampments of Fort Schuyler. This fort was begun in 1833, but not garrisoned until the beginning of the Civil War, when the great McDougal General Hospital was built near it. It is a scientifically casemated fortress of gneiss walls and earthworks, and commands all approaches by water from that side of New York. It can be reached by rail or trolley cars to Westchester. Whitestone and College Point are next passed on the Long Island side, the broad inlet of Flushing Bay opening beyond the. latter, after which comes the amusement resort along Bowery Bay, called North Beach, Ber- rian's Island, and the upper end of Astoria. The low shore of the Port Morris district of the city appears, mean- while, on the right, with a terminus of the New Haven R. R., where barges are loaded with freight and passenger cars to be towed around to the railroad termini in Jersey City, and forwarded to their destina- tion without unloading. The low shore on the left is Riker's Island, just above Astoria. Randall's Island, which the old Governor Van130 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Twilier bought two centuries ago from the Indians, appears next on the right, behind the “ Sunken Meadow.” It is the site of some of the municipal charitable institutions. The strait north of it, called Bronx Kills, admits to the mouth of Harlem River. South of it a passage through to the western channel is known as Little Hellgate, and separates it from the beautiful fields and groves of Ward's Island, where sick and destitute immigrants are cared for, and also where one of the city’s huge lunatic asylums towers above the trees. Blackwell’s Island to the Battery.— Turning and twisting through Hellgate, where the east side of Harlem is in view, piled high with breweries and factories, the steamboat enters the narrow, quiet, and lovely stretch of water between Blackwell's Island on the right and Astoria on the left. The great buildings on Blackwell’s Island are all charitable or correctional institutions belonging to the city. The first to appear is a lunatic asylum. Then follow the workhouse; the almshouse for men, and then an almshouse for women; the reservoir; the rude stone castle of the Penitentiary—“sent to the Island,” in Police Court phrase, means coming here; ne^t the immense halls of Charity Hospital. The hideous commercial front of Long Island City, exhaling the odor of oil and disgusting chemicals from its refineries, rendering- houses and sugar-making establishments, now appears upon the east- ern side, while upon the western is the middle region of New York, its shores crowded with gas works, factories, and blocks of tenements, with here and there a great beer-garden overhanging the rocks, and a bath-house floating at their feet. Just below Hunter's Point (where the Long Island R. R. has its terminus) is Green Point, the northern extremity of Brooklyn (on the left). Directly opposite it the forbidding gray front of Bellevue Hospital (q. v.) looms above the trees, and the landing of the 26th St. ferry. Three blocks below is the East 23d St. ferry and landing, where many steamboats touch to accommo- date passengers going up-town. Williamsburg, the ‘ ‘ eastern district ” of Brooklyn, occupies the shore on the left, and on the right New York is solid to the water’s edge. The river contracts its width, and straight ahead lies the U. S. Navy Yard (See- Brooklyn) — a half-circle about the large and once swampy bight anciently called the Wallabout. The head of your boat, hitherto pointed southeast, now turns slowly to the southwest, and rounding Corlear's Hook enters the lower and busiest part of the East River, spanned by the great suspension bridge. After you have swept under the bridge and past Fulton ferry theTHE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 131 river perceptibly broadens, the Brooklyn shore, lined with massive warehouses, and overlooked by the fashionable mansions on “the heights,” trending away to the left and the New York shore losing its outline to the right in a forest of masts. Governor's Island blocks the view ahead, with Buttermilk Channel between it and Brooklyn; and avoiding the buoy that marks Diamond Reef your boat enters the Harbor, and sweeps around the Battery to its North River pier. Governor's Island is a fortified military reservation of the Govern- ment, and the headquarters of the Military Department of the Atlan- tic, which is co-extensive with the Division of the same name, and embraces all of the States east of the Mississippi River, where all the Division and purely military business is transacted; but the offices of the chief quartermaster and chief commissary, and the other commer- cial departments are in the new Army building, a fine structure at the corner of Whitehall and Pearl Sts., in the city. This stands on ground covered by one corner of the first Dutch fortification erected in New Amsterdam, and occupies the site of the old Produce Ex- change. The officer in command here is usually the one next in suc- cession to the senior major-general commanding at Washington. A ferry-boat (free) is run between the island and the U. S. Barge Office, next to South Ferry, at intervals of an hour or so; and though purposeless tramping about the island is discouraged, a quietly behaved visitor will be welcomed. It will facilitate sight-seeing, however, if an introduction to a resident officer be obtained. The landing is upon the northern side of the island, at the foot of a road running up to the Parade. All the ground at the right of this road belongs to the New York Arsfenal, in charge of the Ordnance Bureau, and is covered with offices, magazines, pyramids of shot and shell, and rows of dismounted cannon. At the left, a few yards beyond the landing, the Parade appears, adorned with trees and surrounded by the old-fashioned houses of the commandant and headquarters staff; at the further end are the officers’ club, the chapel, and the soldiers’ barracks. At the near corner is the long building filled with the library and picture-gallery of the Military Service Institution — an organization by officers of the army devoted to the advancement of their profession. Near by is the Military Museum, the key of which can be obtained, and an illustrated catalogue pur chased at the institution. In this museum are stored a great number of interesting relics of all our wars, especially the last one; a great variety of obsolete and modern arms and equipment, both domestic and foreign; a large and interesting collection of objects of Indian handicraft, costumes, decorations, etc., collected by officers on the frontier; many presenta- tion and persona1 swords, guns and the like, and miscellaneous arti- 10132 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. cles of interest. Especially to be mentioned are the relies of Sir John Frankiin; the war horse (admirably mounted) which Sheridan rode at Winchester — -----the steed, The,: saved the day, by carrying Sheridan into the fight From Winchester, twenty miles away.” This horse was of Black Hawk blood, came into the service with the Second Michigan Cavalry, and was considered by Sheridan the best charger he ever knew. A kettle-drum captured at Saratoga in 1777; the camp-bedstead and a card-table that belonged to Washing- ton, represent the War of Independence; while a series of torn battle- flags recall the Civil War. Beyond the Parade a sunken way leads to the moat, picturesque old sallyport, and interior of Fort Columbus, which is half-filled with the quarters of officers and artillerymen. Through an opposite port you pass down to the level of the moat, now dry and grassy, on the opposite side and climb the narrow stairs leading to the scarp, when the magnificent breadth of the harbor breaks upon the view. Thence a path descends the sloping lawn of the glacis, past the little powder magazine and the hospital (on the right) to old Castle William, a small, circular fort of brick and stone on the point of the island opposite the Battery and commanding the channel. Castle William.—This old-fashioned fortress was begun in 1808, but its construction lagged until the war of 1812 was threatening the country, when it was completed in great haste by the voluntary labor of the citizens; the professors and students of Columbia College, for example, came in a body and worked several days upon it. Its name honors the memory of Col. Jonathan Williams, the son of a Revolu- tionary patriot and the grandnephew of Benjamin Franklin. He studied military science and fortifications in France, and was made chief engineer of the American army in 1805, when he built most of the forts in the inner harbor of New York, including Fort Columbus, and Fort Clinton (Castle Garden). It has three stories of casemates, reached from the ground by spiral staircases in towers. The lower tiers are now used for storage and the uppermost as a prison for military convicts. Several great guns are still mounted upon the parapets, and used for saluting; and it is worth while, if you can obtain permission, to mount to the top, since one of the most beauti- ful views in the world is to be obtained there. Leaving the Castle, you will walk along the shore, past the water batteries, which may be made extremely formidable at short notice, and so around the southern extremity of the island and back through the Parade to the ferry. A Walk along the East River Water-front, through South St., is far more interesting than anything to be seen on the North River front of the city, and is peculiarly fascinating to a person from the interior who, for the first time, finds himself at a great seaport, and whose imagination is stirred to its depths by the sights and sounds familiar to his mind from reading and pictures of foreign travel andTHE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 138 seafaring adventures. Turning up the river from South Ferry, at the foot of Whitehall St., we come at once into the most anciently occupied portions of the island and the present domain of foreign commerce. The land we tread upon here is all artificial. The natural riverside is represented by Pearl St., whose western side was prim- itively the walk along the shore which the houses faced, and whose turn at Franklin Sq. recalls the country road which later ran over toward the high road in the center of the island. One by one, as the growing town demanded them, piers were pushed out, and docks filled in, until finally Water, Front (begun in 1687), and at last South St., were added, and the shore extended out to water too deep for farther progress. Just north of the ferries at the foot of Whitehall St. is Coenties’ Slip. It is now one of the places where fruit vessels abound in summer and canal boats tie up through the winter months; the little park at the head, which represents a space filled in, has been named Jeannette, after the ill-fated vessel which the New York Herald sent on an Arctic exploration. Old Slip, next encountered, opens out of Hanover Sq. It now contains a big new police station, behind which, where an ancient market building stood until within a few years, is now an engine house, built of red and black bricks in close imitation of the old Dutch structure. The foot of Wall St. is beyond, with its ferry to Brooklyn Heights, which is used almost exclusively by the brokers who live over there, and does not run its boats after nightfall. Just above it is the foot of Maiden Lane, v/here stood the Fly Market, famed in the early history of the town. “ Fly ” was a corruption of the Dutch word vly, meaning “ valley.’’ The tall, old-fashioned, slanting-roofed buildings along here are filled with the offices of shipping-masters, vessel-owners, and other seafaring occupations. Here are makers of nautical instruments, outfitters for seamen, sailors’boarding-houses (now well regulated and officially supervised), dark and cobwebby little saloons, with toy ships in the window, or specimens of shells, coral, scrimshaws, worked during the tedium of long voyages in the forecastle, and weather-browned men, “full of strange oaths,” leaning over the counter. Far over the street, their bowsprits reaching almost to the win- dows of the agents’ offices on the other side, are great ships moored to the wharves, disgorging goods brought from some other side of the globe, taking on freight to go to buyers who know not whence it comes; or waiting with unruffled patience the profitable cargo that134 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. shall enable them to go forth. Between them yon get a glimpse of the water, fairly alive with moving boats of every kind. It is such a scene, to be snre, as every great seaport may present, but the picture in New York excels in glowing light and breadth of canvas, and it is intensely novel and interesting to a landsman. The broad space at the foot of Burling Slip passed, you are at Fulton Ferry and Fulton Market, the liveliest point on the river- front. The great bridge looms up overhead, shading the Clyde Line and other steamers to southern ports. Farther on is the ferry to Broadway, Brooklyn; and still farther beyond a lot of queer junk- shops and places for the sale of sea-going commodities, is Catharine Ferry and Catharine Market. The latter is a relic of old times, in the midst of crazy buildings and a rude population not yet disturbed by the hand of progress. The log-wood, coffee, and other tropical goods remind you that here is the center of the South American and West Indian commerce. Later comes the broad space of Market Slip, with a long row of disused trucks standing in a line along the middle of the pavement. The scene has now become uninteresting and squalid, and when the dry docks begin to appear the entertain- ment of the stroll is at an end. Cars run along the whole length of this lower river-front, and one may perhaps find a ride upon them satis- fying to his curiosity. A Trip Down the Bay. New York Bay is roughly lozenge-shaped, stretching into the Hud- son and East rivers at its northern end, and reaching its southern point out through the Narrows into the Lower Bay, which is a broad indentation from the Atlantic, protected by Sandy Hook and the Bar, which form a north-and-south barrier stretching from New Jersey to Long Island. The mass of Staten Island, reaching to within a mile of Long Island at the Narrows, divides the Lower from the Upper Bay, the latter of which is the Harbor, properly speaking. South of Staten Island is Raritan Bay, and between it and the New Jersey mainland winds the narrow tide-channel called Staten Island Sound, or the Arthur Kills. A glance at the map will make this plain. Tour of the Harbor.— Emerging from either river into the harbor, the Battery, and Governor’s Island are quickly left behind, and the massive commercial and office buildings at the lower end of the city group themselves into a magnificent mountain of stately archi- tecture, supporting banners of sun-gilded steam and smoke, andTHE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 186 bristling with gables, turrets, and flagstaff s. At the right, as you gaze sternward, the breadth of East River, the delicately arched line of the graceful suspension bridge, and the looming heights of Brooklyn extend the picture grandly in that direction, while at the left are the broad level of the Hudson and the tall elevators and green background of Jersey City, far enough away to take on an ideal beauty. The focal and foreground point of the splendid scene is the Battery — green with trees and lawns — marked by the quaint structure of Castle Garden, and fringed with white, where the gentle surf breaks against its curving sea-wall. The Battery (as before this the reader will have ascertained) is the name applied to the triangular park at the southern extremity of the city. Originally Manhattan Island was rounded at the end and bor- dered with rocks, hardly covered at high tide. Upon the outermost of these a fortification, in the form of a water-battery, was built very early in the history of the city, and rebuilt, but not much used at the time of the Revolution. This accounts for the name. Among the defenses projected at the close of the last century was anew fort here, upon the outermost rocks. It was completed in 1805, and was named Fort Clinton, after Gov. DeWitt Clinton. This is the structure since modified into Castle Garden. As originally built the fort was separated from the mainland of Manhattan Island by a strip of water which was bridged by a draw, and which was filled in later. It was a circular building of solid stone masonry, with walls in some places thirty feet thick, and was provided with barbette and casemate guns. It was liberally armed and garrisoned by the Government, and was considered by military men one of the best forts in the country. During the second war with England Fort Clinton was the center of a great deal of activity on the part of the citizens of this town. In 1814, the probability of a naval attack presented itself, and early in the spring the Common Council called a mass meeting of citizens to consider the situation. The citizens pledged themselves to rally for the defense of the city. Enlisting stations were at once opened, and companies and regiments were rapidly formed, and drilled opposite Ft. Clinton, which was much strengthened at the same time by gangs of citizens working with trowel and spade. The intense excitement of the times, center- ing at the Battery, spread in all directions about the port, and works were thrown up on Brooklyn Heights, Ellis Island, Bedloe’s Island, and Staten Island, largely by volunteer labor of citizens. Forts were built all around the Lower Bay and along the shores of the East River and McGowan’s Pass, and other strategic points were covered by a chain of forts protecting the city on the north. For this mas- ter, consult Journal U. S. Artillery, IX, March-April, 1898.136 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. After the war Ft. Clinton was kept in good military shape for a few years only, because the defenses of other approaches to the city had made it practically useless. It was deeded to the State in 1822. Then began its civil existence, which is more interesting than its mil- itary career. From 1824, when Lafayette landed thereon his visit to this country, until 1853, when theatrical representations of a rather cheap sort were produced there, the fort was a popular resort. In 1847 Castle Garden was remodeled inside, shut in with a high roof, and fitted up as a luxurious place of amusement. The Havana Opera Company, the leading opera organization of the period, appeared there, and many fine plays were given. Then followed the wonderful introduction of Jenny Lind by P. T. Barnum, when the town went wild over the Swedish diva. In 1855 Castle Garden became the State immigrant depot* and nearly ten millions of immi- grants passed through its halls. In 1891, however, the United States took charge of immigration, aban- doned Castle Garden, and established a new depot upon Ellis Island. This is a small Island between the Liberty Statue and the Communipaw shore, which has been almost covered with a fine range of buildings. Hither all steerage passengers are transferred from the steamers in which they arrive, and before they can land must be examined as to their eligibility as citizens, and be fully recorded. If they are bound to some interior point, they are put into .charge of railway or steamship agents, and by them conducted to the trains or steamers. The Government never loses sight of, nor ceases to protect, the immigrant until he is prepared to face the new life. A ferry-boat (free) runs between the Battery and the island every forty minutes during working hours. THE BARGE OFFICE.THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 187 The Battery Park contains twenty-one acres, is shaded by large trees, and provided with a broad walk along the sea-wall and with a great number of seats, always crowded with quaint immigrants and loungers. At the eastern end of the sea-wall stands the Revenue Barge Office, a branch of the' Custom House, surmounted by a tower 90 ft. high, and beyond that the group of ferries to Brooklyn and Staten Island known collectively as South Ferry. In 1893 the Battery was adorned by a bronze statue of John Ericsson, the great engineer, which stands near the Barge Office. It was erected by the city, was designed by J. S. Hartley, and the granite pedestal bears panels in low relief commemorating the deeds of the “ Monitor.” The Aquarium.— Castle Garden has been restored externally, and refitted by the city (Park Department) as an aquarium, open freely, each day to the public. It is in charge of city officials, and will repay inspection. The floor of the old fort is occupied by large open tanks for large fishes, seals, great turtles, etc.; and the walls are encircled by glass-fronted wall tanks containing an extensive display of the fishes of our waters, both salt and fresh. The circular gallery above them is occupied by tanks in which are living, amid fixed aquatic growths, a rich collection of small corals, anemones, mollusks, crustaceans, and other creatures of great interest and beauty. Everything is fully labeled. Admittance 10 a. m. to 4 p. m. , daily. The Liberty Statue. Bartholdi’s Statue of Liberty stands upon Bedloe’s Island, 1$.miles southwest of the Battery and on the western edge of the path of com- merce. Its base is surrounded by the double, star-shaped wmlls and salients of old Fort Wood, which partly hide the pedestal, but lend dignity to the noble figure. This colossal figure, the largest statue of modern times, is made of hammered plates of copper, is 151 ft. in height and stands upon a pedestal 155 ft. high. Auguste Bartholdi was a French sculptor, already known to Amer- icans by his statue of Lafayette in Union Sq., and by other works. He was impressed during a voyage to the United States by the eager- ness with which the immigrants crowded the decks for a first glimpse of the new land to which they were coming with such hope and con- fidence, and the thought came to him, as Mr. Charles Barnard has well written it; “ What a joy and encouragement it would be to these people if they could see something to welcome them, to remind them that this is a republic. What if there stood, like a great guardian, at138 BANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. the entrance of the continent, a colossal statue — a grand figure of a woman holding aloft a torch, and symbolizing Liberty Enlightening the World! ” When he went home he proposed that a popular sub- scription should be opened in France to present to the people of the United States such a statue. The idea took the fancy of the French. More than $200,000 was collected, and in 1879 Mr. Bartholdi began work upon the statue, the sketch of which had been approved by critics and people alike. The process of building this colossal figure was most interesting, and was graphically detailed by Mr. C. Barnard in St. Nicholas for July, 1884, quoted below: Structure of the Statue.—A monolith so enormous as this was designed to be, could never be transported or erected; and if built up in courses it would crumble and become unsightly. Bartholdi remem- bered the statue erected centuries ago by “ II Cerano ” on the shore of Lake Maggiore, which was made of copper, in thin sheets, ham- mered into shape and laid upon a frame of stone, iron, and wood; and he decided that his statue must follow the same method. A begin- ning was made by executing a model in plaster just one-sixteenth the size of the intended statue. Next another model four times as large was constructed, and carefully studied and worked over to make it as perfect as possible. This quarter-size model being finished, the task followed of making the full-sized model in plaster. But this had to be cast in sections, and these fitted together. To mold these full- sized copies of the quarter-sized model, which had been cut into suitable pieces, was a work of great ingenuity. Their weight required a support, and a framework of laths was first erected over which the plaster was roughly spread, and then was chiseled and smoothed by skillful workmen into an exact similitude of the smaller model. These sections in plaster completed, came the work of making wooden molds that should be exact copies both in size and modeling of the plaster. “ It was a long, tedious, and difficult piece of work; but there are few workmen who could do it better than these French carpenters. Each piece was a model of a part of the statue, exactly fitting every projection, depression, and curve of that portion of the figure or drapery. Into these wooden molds sheets of metal were laid, and pressed or beaten down until they fitted the irregular sur- faces of the molds. All the repousse, or hammered work, was done from the back, or inside of the sheet [which varied from one to three yards square]............In this complicated manner, by making first a sketch, then a quarter-size model, then a full-sized model in sections, then hundreds of wooden copies, and lastly by beating into shape 300 sheets of copper, the enormous statue was finished. These 300 bent and hammered plates, weighing in all eighty-eight tons, form the outside of the statue. They are very thin, and while they fit each other perfectly, it is quite plain that if they were put together in their proper order they would never stand alone; .... there must be also a skeleton, a bony structure inside, to hold it together.LIBERTY ENLIGHTENING THE WORLD—Bedloe’s Island, New York Bay. Statue by Bartholdi. 11 139140 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY\ This is of iron beams, firmly riveted together, and making a support to which the copper shell can be fastened. ' Thus the statue itself was built. Its readiness was promised for the summer of 1883, and the people of America were asked to contrib- ute money to erect a suitable pedestal. They were slow to respond, not feeling the enthusiasm for the idea which had prompted the Frenchmen; but at last The World newspaper aroused attention, and by a systematic effort on its part (chiefly) the $250,000 necessary was raised, and the summer of 1886 was .spent in erection of a pedestal after plans by Richard M. Hunt, under the supervision of Gen. C. P. Stone, as chief engineer. Bedloe’s Island had been selected as the place for it to stand by Bartholdi himself. There 2,000,000 people could plainly see the great bronze figure from their homes, and another million, in country homes, could see her lamp by night; while men and women of every nation would pass in ships beneath her mighty arm. Stairways in the interior of the pedestal lead to balconies on each side at the base of the statue and up into the statue itself. These chambers and the interior are lighted by electricity, and narrow, but well-protected stairways lead up among the iron trusses and cross- braces which knit the whole structure together, and are securely anchored to the pedestal. It is interesting to note the strength and ingenuity of this skeleton, and to observe how deftly the plates are joined, so as to appear seamless and continuous on the exterior. After a time the stairway becomes spiral, twisting upward around a central column, the return stairway coiling, reversely, within it, so that no one is met either going up or coming down, though the voices and steps of invisible persons are plainly heard. The main .stairway leads to the hollow in the top of the head, where it is said that forty persons may stand at once, and a row of windows in the half-circle of the coronet overlooks the whole harbor, New York City, the Brooklyn shore, far back among the'Long Island hills, and out past the Narrows to the ocean horizon. It is a magnificent picture, and on a clear, bright day fully repays one for the exertion of the climb. No greater elevation can be reached anywhere near New York. The torch is lighted by a cluster of electric-lamps, the dyna- mos and machinery for feeding which are in a building on the south- ern shore of the island. The figure itself, which faces the east, and has a face full of grave and noble beauty, stands posed on one foot, as if about to step forward, and is majestic from every point of view.FORT WADSWORTH, STATEN ISLAND. 141142 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. It is iio % ft. high to the top of the head and 151 to the apex of the torch-flame, held aloft as a beacon of liberty guiding the stranger hastening to our shores from over the sea. An excellent descriptive pamphlet may be bought on the island. A steamboat leaves the Battery for the statue every even hour, between 8 a. m. and 4 p. m. , reaching Bedloe’s Island in fifteen min- utes, and returning on the alternate half hours. The fare for the round trip is 25 cents. There is no charge for seeing or ascending the statue, and an hour is sufficient time to spend upon the island. Scenery of the Harbor.— Bedloe’s and Governor’s islands left astern, the whole of the Harbor is in view. The New Jersey shore on the right is indistinct, but would have little to show, as it is a low, squalid water-front, bordered by great shallows, locally distinguished as York Bay. Straight ahead is Robin's Reef Lighthouse, warning against a ridge of rocks where a century ago seals used to bask and play, whence its Dutch name. The lighthouse is a low, brown tower, hardly visible against the hills of the Staten Island shore. On the left is the monotonous expanse of South Brooklyn, curving about the anchorage-basin of Gowanus Ray, the northern shore of 'which pro- jects into the point called Red Hook, where there are vast ware- houses; and the verdant hills of Prospect Park and Greenwood Cem- etery make the background of the city. The skirts of Brooklyn thin out toward the south into the high, villa-dotted shore of Ray Ridge, below which the shore swells outward in green bluffs to form a head- land at the Narrows crowned by the batteries of Ft. Hamilton, in front of which, at the water’s edge, is old Fort Lafayette. Fort Hamilton is the name not only of a fort, but of a pretty little village which has grown-up around it. The military reservation contains ninety-six acres, and extends around to the beach of Graves- end, which reaches m behind the western extremity of Coney Island. The fort itself is a large casemated structure, capable of being put in a state of most effective defense and having shore batteries fifty feet above the water. Its guns command the Narrows and the approach from the Lower Bay, and it is garrisoned by several artillery com- panies. It is now a part of the city of Brooklyn. Fort Lafayette is the conspicuous, circular “castle*’ standing in the water in front of Fort Hamilton, constructed of brick and resting upon an artificial island where its guns command the channel, point blank. It was begun in 1812, and named Fort Lafayette in 1822, when it was first garrisoned. It has long been obsolete, but duringTHE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 143 the Civil War it was the prison for political prisoners, where many- well-known persons convicted or suspected of treason against the Government were confined. Lately it has been used as a place of storage for ordnance and ammunition; and here Zalinsky built and experimented with his dynamite guns, and the new submarine tor- pedo boats were tried. This is one of the places selected for the improved harbor defenses, and it is probable that at some future day steel turrets will be erected upon it, carrying guns of enormous caliber. The, Narrows are here only a mile wide, and form the gateway from the Lower Bay into the Harbor. The right-hand shore is the eastern end of Staten Island, with the contiguous villages of Tomp- kins ville, Stapleton, and Clifton. The yacht club-houses, the queer craft of two or three wrecking companies, and many coasters at anchor will attract notice. The point at the Narrows is high and is occupied by Fort Wadsworth — a name which covers the whole group of fortifications on that side. The military reservation includes one hundred acres of high and rugged land, which could quickly be made almost impregnable, and in conjunction with Ft. Hamilton become an impassable obstacle to the invasion of the harbor by a hostile fleet. Thj fort reached by trolley cars from St. George. Having sailed through the Narrows, the wide expanse of the Lower Bay spreads to the right, opening at the left to the breadth of the Atlantic. The low sandy shore fades eastward into the dotted beach of Coney Island; and if the wind is brisk a white line of surf may be distinguished breaking on the bar. Near at hand, on the right of the channel, a group of small islands and dismantled hulks will attract the attention of the passenger. These constitute the Quarantine Station.— Quarantine in the port of New York for the protection of the public health was established and is authorized by State laws; the city office of the Commissioners is at 71 Broadway. The establishment consists of the hospital ship “ Illinois,” Swinburne Island, upon which is located the hospital for contagious diseases; Hoffman Island, situated one mile north of Swinburne Island, which is used for the detention and purification of well persons arriving in infected vessels; the quarantine burying-ground, situated at Seguin’s, Staten Island, in which are deposited the remains of all persons dying of infectious diseases; the upper boarding-station at Clifton, S. I., at which are the health officer’s and the deputy health officer’s residences, and from which all vessels are boarded arriving from144 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. non-infected ports; and the steamer, by means of which daily com- munication is kept up between all points of the quarantine establish- ment, supplies transported, the remains of deceased patients towed to the hospital burying-ground, and the mails[and passengers released from vessels detained in quarantine brought to the city. Swinburne Island is connected with the health officer’s residence at Clifton, S. I., and the health officer’s residence with the New York office of the Commissioners of Quarantine. From quarantine are just visible, eight or ten miles southwest, the trio of lighthouses and the military barracks on Sandy Hook, which is a long spit reaching northward in con- tinuation of the New Jersey coast-line. Some distance outside of it, marking the position of some dangerous shoals, lie the Sandy Hook and Scotland Lightships — hulks securely anchored, whose short masts support two great red globes by day and lanterns by night as a warning to mariners. Around the former and return is the “ out- side ” or “ocean” course of the yacht clubs, where the great races for the America cup and other prizes are sailed. The main ship-chan- nel runs close by both the lightships and the extremity of Sandy Hook. At the heel of Sandy Hook, and between Navesink River and the Bay, rise the lofty Navesink IIighla7ids, surmounted by twin light- houses, one of which only is now used, furnished with an electric flashlight of remarkable power. - From this lofty outlook an agent thoroughly acquainted with the insignia of all craft coming to New York, and aided by a powerful telescope, watches the horizon and notifies the agent of the Asso- ciated Press at Sandy Hook of the approach of any steamer or vessel worth mention. This is immediately telegraphed to New York. Another “ ship-news” agent resides at Fire Island, and a third at Quarantine ; while other agents are deputed to board incoming .steamers and gather such exchanges, dispatches, correspondence, etc., as they bring for the local newspapers, or for customs officers. Persons expecting friends from abroad may, by paying a dollar and leaving their addresses at any telegraph office, receive notice of the arrival at Quarantine of the vessel by which the absent ones are coming, giving them ample time to reach the wharf from any part of the city as soon as the vessel itself. Fort Hancock is the name of the powerful concealed fortifications on Sandy Hook. This is the scenery of the ocean portal, visible to the outward- bound voyager, or to the excursionist going to Coney Island, Rock- away, Sandy Hook, or Long Branch. A few words remain to be saidTHE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 145 in regard to the south shore of Staten Island and Raritan Bay, seen from the steamboats that go to Keyport, Perth Amboy, Tottenville, or around into Newark Bay. Passing down through The Narrows the steamer turns southward along the straight south shore of Staten Island, which is pretty, but has few features of special interest. Great Kill is an indentation early passed, and later comes Prince's Bay, the headquarters of the oyster cultivators of the region, whose natural beds, where the young oysters, or “ seed,” are gathered, and planted beds, to which they are transferred, cover many square miles of shallows in this vicinity. All along the adjacent Jersey shore, and particularly off Keyport, this industry rules; and in the spring and early summer the whole surface of this part of the bay will be dotted with oyster sloops, and hundreds of small boats will be seen, each with two or three men busily tonging. Ernest Ingersoll’s “ Oyster Industries of the United States,” which was a special report to the Census of 1880, contains full details, statistics, and illustrations of this business, and of the oyster culture generally in the neighborhood of New York. He found that at that date the oyster planters of New York Bay alone numbered 500, cultivating 2,500 acres of sea-bottom, having 400 sailing vessels of all sizes, and selling $375,000 worth of oysters annually, one-third of which had been brought young from Chesa- peake Bay, replanted and allowed to gain their growth in these genial waters. This narrowing easterly portion of the bay is called Raritan Bay, and receives the Raritan River and canal, which communicates with the Delaware River at Trenton, N- J. The port of Tottenville is the southernmost village of Staten Island — a queer old town of sea- faring people. Straight across from it, at the mouth of Raritan River, is Perth Amboy, one of the very earliest places settled in New Jersey. Between Staten Island and the mainland of New Jersey runs the river-like channel of Staten Island Sound, or the Arthur (“ Achter ”) Kill; and it is a delightful sail to return along its still current between green and shady banks, with here and there a small village or some other pleasant object to interest the eye. As the northeastern part is reached the island shore becomes low and the broad shallow expanse and marshy shores of Newark Bay open ahead, with the water-front of the busy city of Elizabeth at its mouth (on. the left). Here crosses the high steel draw-bridge of the Baltimore & Ohio R. R., carrying their trains to the new terminus at the northern end of Staten Island; and at the Staten Island end of the bridge are seen146 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. the inclosures and a few houses of Erastina. Newark Bay receives the Passaic and Hackensack rivers and is navigable. Its eastern shore is Bergen Point, the terminus of the peninsula stretching south from Jersey City, and a delightful place for a suburban resi- dence. Between Bergen Point and Staten Island winds the Kill nan Kull, extending through to the harbor, and completing the insulation of Staten Island. On the right, noble old houses with elegant grounds, and a succession of small village centers line the shore; but on the Jersey shore, which reaches out in the low point called Constable's Hook, there is seen an immense array of oil-tanks, warehouses and shipping wharves — the property of the Standard Oil Company and terminus of their pipe lines—immediately opposite which are the park-like grounds of Sailor's Snug Harbor. From here a beautiful picture of New York Harbor is presented, and a moment later the circumnavigation of Staten Island has been completed. Staten Island is connected with the adjacent shores by ferries from Port Richmond to Bergen Point; from Howland Hook to Eliz- abethport; and from Tottenville to Perth Amboy; and from St. George to South Brooklyn. Hi i Uf fit p • * ft r , ] THE AQUARIUM—Formerly Castle Garden.VII. A RAMBLE AT NIGHT. Some suggestions as to a good route for a nocturnal ramble, and the sort of thing a person may expect to see, may be useful. If you are in search of evil, in order to take part in it—don’t look here for guidance. This book merely proposes to give some hints as how the dark, crowded, hard-working, and sometimes criminal portions of the city look at night. Supposing that you start from an uptown hotel, say at 9 o’clock, a good plan would be to take the Sixth Av. El. Ry. to Bleecker St. station. This is a shady corner, in more senses than one. The junc- tion of Bleecker and South Fifth Av. is quite roofed over by the elevated station and tracks, and the latter street is one of the most poorly lighted in town; moreover the locality is largely inhabited by negroes, mainly of a very low class, becoming still more low and vicious as you go down Sullivan and Thompson Sts.,below Bleecker; and a large proportion of the white residents, American, Italian, French, and Irish, are fond of shady places and shady ways. Wander about these gloomy blocks a bit, if you like, but keep your eyes open — not so wide, however, as would be advisable four or five hours later. East of South Fifth Av., Bleecker St. is brighter, and there are several queer little French and Italian restaurants. Fifty years ago this street was the height of fashion, and the doorplates of the fine old houses, many of which yet remain in melancholy dirt and ruin, bore names now counted 1 ;gh up on Fifth or Madison avenues. But great business houses are ris'ttg year by year on their sites, and even the devil is being ousted from all this evil part of town by com- merce and manufactures. The huge and handsome Mills Hotel No. 1 stands here. Wooster and Green Sts., next east of South Fifth Av., which twenty years ago were infamous, are now walled in by huge factories and commercial buildings. Two blocks further on we come to Broadway, quiet and gloomy here, since almost every store is closed at 6. We cross it and walk one block east to the head of Mulberry St., just beyond which are the rooms of two street missions, one of which, the Florence Mission, is widely known for its work among the women of the street. Turning down Mulberry we pass the solemn, white front of Police 147A RAMBLE A T NIGHT. 149 Headquarters, whose two green lanterns, erect and firm before the door, are no more watchful than the power within, with its hand on the pulse of the metropolis, unceasingly vigilant, unfailingly ready, minute by minute, day after day, year in and year out. The Police Force.—No part of the city government is so apparent, to both citizens and strangers, as the police. The first man the visitor sees, as he alights from his incoming train or boat, is a police- man. The government of the force has gone through many changes, by the latest of which it is governed by one commissioner (John N. Partridge) who appoints the Chief of the Police (Nathanial B. Thurston). The superintendence of Elections is no longer a part of their duties. The Headquarters of the force is at 300 Mulberry St. The boroughs of Manhattan and the Bronx contain thirty-eight precincts, each of which has its own station house, with quarters for the men, cells for prisoners, and, in a few, a matron for the care of women prisoners. Attached to each one are two patrol wagons. Each precinct is commanded by a captain, who has under him sergeants and roundsmen — the latter “ going the rounds” to see that the patrolmen are at their posts, or “beats,” and doing their duty properly—and a quota of privates, or “ patrolmen.” Many of the men on duty in the northern part of the city are mounted on horses; a large squad patrols many streets upon bicycles; and the men of the Harbor Police patrol the river margins in rowboats, with headquarters on a steamer. A “ steamboat squad” is detailed in summer to accompany all the pleasure boats plying to suburban and seaside resorts, and the special water excursions and picnics so frequent at that season. The Broadway Squad is a picked body of favored officers, of peculiarly tall and fine appearance, who are com- plimented by being assigned to day posts upon the great thorough- fare. The Detective Bureau is composed of a large number of skilled officers detailed for detective work, with the rank of sergeants. The force now numbers, all told, about 4,500 men in old New York, and 3,000 more in Brooklyn, Queens, and Richmond boroughs. Police Headquarters (Mulberry St., near Houston) is connected with all the stations, Bellevue Hospital, and some other points, by special telegraph wires, and all arrests, fires, accidents, and every occurrence of any moment, in any part of the city, is at once commun- icated to the Headquarters’ operators. Unless there are “reasons of state ” for keeping it a secret, a memorandum of this information is at once placed in the hands of the reporters for the press, who are on duty at Police Headquarters, and who never for a moment, day or night, leave the place “ uncovered.” This routine explains how so great a quantity of news is gathered. The same system is applied to the other boroughs. The Health Department long had its offices in this building, but now is quartered in its own premises, Sixth Av., cor. 55th St. The odd, elevated figure confronting us as we approach the next150 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. corner gradually shapes itself out of the shadows as the image of the genial Puck, whose bright weekly is printed in that great building. On this northeast c orner of Mulberry and Houston ran for many years the notorious pugilistic resort and concert hall of Harry Hill; but the doughty proprietoi closed his doors some years ago. Turning east through Houston St., we walk two blocks to the Bowery (of which more presently), an 1 jumping upon a car ride down half a mile to Worth St., which opens as abroad thoroughfare westward from the lower side of Chatham Sq. We walk rapidly two or three hundred yards along it, until we suddenly find ourselves in an open, triangu- lar space, where several narrow and irregular streets converge. This is the Five Points.—Thirty years ago Worth St. was called Anthony, and did not extend through from Chatham Sq. to Broadway, as it now does, but stopped midway at “the points,” where its intersection with Park and Cross (now Baxter) Sts. formed five triangles. The ground was low, and had from the first been avoided by those who could choose a more desirable site for their buildings. On each of these points, years ago, stood grog-shops of the lowest character, and the whole neighborhood was filled with infamous houses and tumble- down tenements, inhabited by the poorest and most abandoned persons—the human drainage of the city. It would be unpleasant to insist upon all the disagreeable features. What remains even yet is indicative of a very bad past, though the light has been let in by the opening of Worth St., the paving of the little “square,” the demolition of many of the old rookeries, and the closing of such alleys as “Cow Bay” and “ Donovan’s Lane.” Even the old “Bloody Sixth’’police station in Franklin St. was abandoned a dozen years ago. Nevertheless you may listen to the noise of fighting any night now in that region, especially in the Italian quarter just north of it; and the counters of the dark and dreadful saloons are chipped with knife-thrusts and dented with pistol-bullets. Where next? Baxter St., which leads straight through from the Five Points to Chatham St., is dark and quiet. The ol’ clo’ shops are shut, and all the Cohens have gone to bed. In the day-time this narrow, short, and dirty thoroughfare will repay the curiosity of any sight-seer who has the temerity to run the gauntlet of “pullers in.” The street, more commonly spoken of as “ the Bay,” has always been known for its cheap clothing business, and shop after shop on both sides is given up to our Hebraic brethren, wTho appropriate the greater part of the sidewalk for the display of their various “ bargains. ” Swarthy men and sometimes girls entreat you to enter and buy, not only, but seize your arm and will drag you in, if they can, despite the protests and revilings of the salesman next door. The complacencyA RAMBLE AT NIGHT 151 with which you are assured that black is white and that other contra- dictory things, are similar, in order to effect a sale, is amusing — objectively. It is too far to go to see the Italian rag-pickers in Crosby St., but we can find a great colony of the same people in Little Italy, just above here ; so let us go to The Mulberry Bend.—Mulberry St., here at its southern end, is narrow, dark, and dirty. Six-story tenements, whose unwashed win- dows scarcely disclose any evidence of the lamp-light within, rise in a solid wall on either hand. Their first floors are occupied by shops of various kinds—all dark now, but blurs of red and yellow light at each corner, and once or twice in the middle, of every block, show that the saloons are still open. Along the curbstone, every two or three doors, are groups of trucks,whose drivers and horses are stabled somewhere in the midst of these tenements. It it not much after ten o’clock, and plenty of people are in the street; if it be one of the hot summer evenings, everybody is out, half of them asleep on the trucks, or in door-steps, or on the cellar doors, where the mothers have brought pillows, or maybe a mattress, for their children to lie upon ; and there they will sleep all night rather than stifle inside those awful hives of neglected humanity. The Park recently opened here, has cleared away some of the worst of these squalid tenements, and opened the ‘Points” and the “Bend” to fresh air and green grass. It has a rest-house, fountains, and in- numerable seats. A great new schoolhouse is close by. On all sides are pictures worth an artist’s study, especially on a summer evening. Here is a little street coming in from the right, and the smoky torches of a fruit-seller gleam upon the brass buttons of two police- men who are watching what seems to be material for a very pretty row, in a group of small, lithe, dark men excitedly quarreling and gesticulating. Not a word of English is heard'— only a rough, gut- teral Italian. Perhaps they will take it out in words — perhaps a knife may flash out, a cry be heard, and the cat-like murderer get away, even though policemen are so close at hand, for his countrymen will help him to escape, in order that they may institute the vendetta and become their own avengers. We move on. The way is more crowded, and as we jostle through it is hard to believe this is not Naples. The street curves slightly to the left. More dark-skinned men and bonnetless women — who ever saw one of these signorinas wear a hat ? — throng the sidewalks and squat in the doorways of the152 BANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. little shops, whoso thresholds are below the sidewalk, or lounge upon the trucks, or pass in and. out of a concert hall where dancing is going on. Let us step into this groggery kept by a man whose name is honored in Rome, if his sign may be believed, and get a glass of beer. It is a dark, smoky little bar-room, filled with Italians. No doubt they look ferocious, if your fancy insists upon it, but to me there seems only a sort of brutish curiosity in their glances. The beer comes in glasses holding nearly a quart, and only three cents is asked; but if it was not altogether obtained by emptying the dregs of the beer-kegs in other saloons, the stock was certainly eked out in that way. We take just a sip for politeness sake and go out again. This is the Mulberry Bend — in some respects the most unmanage- able crime-nursery in the city. It is quiet enough, as a rule, how- ever, and we turn back and saunter through the stinking shadows of Bayard St. (the very worst part of a very bad street named after the pattern of gentility) without any sensations of alarm, since no ven- detta has been declared against us in “ Little Italy.” Chinatown and the Chinese.—At the top of the slope of Baxter St. is Mott St., and here in daylight an extremely picturesque and for- eign scene is presented as you look back at the rickety tenements and the chaffering crowd of excitable hucksters. Mott St., from Bayard to Chatham Sq., is the heart of Chinatown. Here, or in the immediate neighborhood, the majority of the 7,000 Chinese in New York has its home, though its work may be done to a large extent somewhere else. Here are the joss houses, the civil officers of the colony, the merchants, the tailors, and shoemakers, the lodging- houses and restaurants, the gambling rooms and opium-smoking places. The latest estimate by the Chinese Consulate (26 W. 9th St.) places the number of Chinese in New York and Brooklyn at about 7,000. All come from a little territory in the province of Kwantung, in part known as the Sam Yup, or Four Towns, and the Sz’ Yup or Three Towns. Some thirty “companies” of merchants are enumerated in New York, and many of them do a large business, not only at home, but in supplying Chinese shops in outlying towns. Their stock is mainly imported direct, and includes a wide range of goods. These stores are always open, of course, to visitors, and in each of them a clerk or proprietor speaking English will be found. The largest wholesale ones are in Mott St. and Chatham Sq.; but the most showy retail shops are those in Pell St., at the lower end of the Bowery. Their habits of personal cleanliness are maintained, their streets are by all odds the cleanest in that part of the city, the buildings in whichA ramble at night. m they live are well swept and kept in good repair, and their quarters, though smelling of incense smoke, and otherwise strangely malodor- ous to Caucasian nostrils, and despite their crowded condition, far surpass in wholesome cleanliness the tenements of the foreigners around them. The hour of this walk is too late, of course, to enable us ro enter the stores, whose upright signs,- with big carved characters and little knots and tassels of cloth, glimmer picturesquely in the gaslight. What we can see through the darkened windows induces a resolve to come here again by daylight. The front of a building on the eastern side of the way attracts attention. It is covered with balconies hung with gaudy signs and ornaments, and illuminated by large octagonal lanterns of colored glass. This is the new temple or joss house at No. 16, which is worth a visit. A Joss House.—We enter the hall, and climb two pairs of stairs to the front room, whei'e the noise made by our entrance brings an aged and shriveled attendant, who bows his welcome, shaking his own hands the while, instead of shaking ours. One side of the room is filled with a great shrine of magnificently carved ebony columns and arches, within which carved figures covered with gold leaf are placed, the whole resembling somewhat the stage-setting of a tiny theater. The extreme back of the shrine is occupied by a half-length painting representing, they tell you, Gwan Gwing Shing Te, the only original god of the Chinese Empire. On his left is the woman-like figure of his grand secretary, Lee Poo, and on his right, in fiercest battle array, is Tu Chong, the grand body-guard. A row of candles, set like theater footlights, illuminates the painting, and brings out all its barbaric splendor. About three feet in front of the shrine is a massive carved table upon which are arranged the brass jars, joss sticks, sandle-wood urns, and all the offerings and sacrifices peculiar to this worship. It is before this table, after lighting his incense sticks and his sacred paper, that the Mongolian worshiper makes his devotional salaams, pours his tiny libation of rice wine, and repeats the ritual of prayers enjoined upon him. The religion of this people, as manifested here, is, however, accompanied by little sacredness. A Chinese Theater is conducted at 5 Doyer St., which may be visited by anyone, and (in parties) by ladies. The plays and audi- ence are thoroughly and characteristically Chinese, by actors of abil- ity, are never offensive, and often are comical. Admission, 25 cents. Confections and sugar-cane are sold, and everybody smokes. Several Chinese restaurants are carried on in this quarter, and on Saturday nights and Sundays, when Chinamen flock in here to visit friends and make purchases, they are crowded. The largest one is kept by Kee Keng Low on the third floor (front) of 16 Mott St. Another is at 16 Doyer St.154 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The Bowery,—It is only eleven o’clock, and the Bowery is still crowded with people, and brilliant with innumerable lights along its whole length. There is no other such a street in America. “ In it is probably represented every civilized nation on the globe, and it is un- questionably a democratic street. It is the antithesis of Broadway, and the grand avenue of the respectable lower classes.” Years ago it was the resort of a peculiar type of braggart ruffians, the Bowery boys, who were the heroes of that New York which was guarded by the “ leather head ” police, and ran to fires “ wid de machine ” of their favorite volunteer company. Dickens found here material to his taste. No chapter in his “ American Notes ” is more graphic or true than that upon the Bowery ; and Thackeray was anxious first of all to see this street and its habitues. But that time passed with the era of the war and the coming of the immigrants. Americans have almost disappeared from that part of New York, and the swaggering “boy ” has departed. The “ young feller ” who remains is really no better, but he is more showy, less troublesome, and is in turn giving way to the German and Jew, good-natured and frugal, even in their amusements. Larger buildings and better shops are exhibited year by year, and the Bowery is gradually but steadily rising. The Russian Quarter.—It is getting late. We must hurry east- ward. Here is Chatham Sq. again. A maze of streets radiates off at the left—dark, narrow streets leading down toward the East River, and we can see in the distance a few of the lights on the Brooklyn Bridge, and distinguish against the sky the shadowy blur of a tower. Let us follow the line of the Second Av. El. Ry. up Di- vision St. as far as Market. St., running the gauntlet of hook-nosed girls in front of the millinery stores, who, from pure force of habit, will beseech us to go in and buy something “ for your lady, sir.” It is an odd bit of the city. Then we turn down Market, a broad and once important .street, which runs down to East River, and cross over one block to East Broadway, a semi-fashionable thoroughfare half a century ago, but now the central avenue of the Russian and Polish quarter, so far as these people can be separated from Jews, Bohemians, and Hungarians,who throng a square mile of marvelously crowded tenements in this region. Here, among his countrymen, dwells many a political refugee or escaped soldier from the dominion of the Tsar ; or if, as is usually the case in New York, the education of the exile enables him to earn enough to live in a better place, he is often to be seen here as a visitor. Signs in Russian letters are fre-A RAMBLE A T NIGHT. 155 quent. One of these, over the door of a basement liquor saloon, sug- gests to us that we go in and get a glass of vodka, or Russian spirits; there is little in it that differs from any bar-room of the vicinity, and the drink is nothing but poor whisky. The sign of a Russian res- taurant attracts us. We find a neat room, once the parlor of a big house, where a mother and two comely daughters are chatting with half a dozen dark-skinned young men, who sit smoking cigarettes at small tables. We get some bread and coffee, and go our way, having seen little if anything out of the ordinary. The Russian, the Pole, the Bohemian, is lost at once in the American ; but the Jew remains ca Jew. In “ Judea.”—We turn disappointedly out of East Broadway, and wander about the narrow dirty streets northward ; and westward— Forsythe, Allen, Orchard, Ludlow, Hester, and Canal. Everywhere six and seven storied brick tenement houses are crowded to their eaves with humanity. One single square mile in this part of town holds a quarter of a million persons. Nine-tenths of them are Germans or Germanized Jews and Bohemians. They are the hardest-working part of the population, and spend the least of what they earn. The Israelites are the most interesting. They form a community by themselves, supplying each other’s wants and having communication only to a limited extent with outsiders. Here is where the fakers <*nd peddlers who throng the lower part of the town get their supplies jid learn how to earn their livelihood, even before they have any idea of the language of the country. There is no special reason why we should come to see them at night, save for the picturesqueness of it; except on Thursday night (preceding the Hebrew Sabbath, which begins at Friday’s sunset) when the streets, and especially Hester St., are crowded to suffoca- tion with crowds of strollers and buyers of the holiday’s provisions, and long lines of hand-carts, selling every conceivable thing and illu- minated by flaring oil-torches. The little shops open their doors to the widest, and upon every cellar door some zealous merchant dis- plays a heap of second-hand goods, and howls out the name and virtues of his wares. Fire Department.—Few things interest the stranger in New York more than to go to a fire and see the work of what is conceded to be the most scientific and capable fire department in the world. It is ruled by a commissioner, appointed by the mayor, from headquarters 12It ANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. 156 at 157 B. 67th St., but practical direction is in the hands of a chief, who has under him a deputy for Brooklyn. The old city contains over 100 engine, hook-and-ladder, and water-tower companies, grouped into battalions under battalion chiefs, and so arranged in districts that a certain amount of apparatus responds to any alarm in its district, and more is called by additional telegraphic signals. TRINITY CHURCH -Lower Broadway, opposite Wall Street.VIII. CHURCHES AND RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. The Dutch Reformed Church has the honor of possessing not only the oldest Protestant organization in New York, hut in the Western hemisphere. This patriarch is the Collegiate 1). F. Church Society, whose 250th anniversary was celebrated Nov. 21, 1878. The finest of the present Dutch Reformed churches, architecturally, is the Third (or Fifth Avenue) Collegiate at Fifth Av. and 48th St., which exhibits a wealth of study in its constructive and other decorations. The Bloomiiigdale Church (Boulevard and W. 68th St.) is a handsome building of white and gray stone. Another handsome edifice belongs to the Second Collegiate of Harlem, at Lenox Av. and 123d St. The church at Fifth Av. and 29th St. is known as the Holland Church, and is a fine building of Vermont marble in the Romanesque style. In addition to those heretofore mentioned, some twenty other churches and missions of this denomination are scattered about the city and its northern suburbs, a recent addition to the list being the Hamilton Avenue Church, at W. 145th St. and Convent Av., which stands upon what was once the home estate of Alexander Hamilton. Episcopalian.— Next in antiquity as an organization is the Prot- estant Episcopal (Church of England), where, of course, Trinity heads a list notable for splendid architecture as well as good works. The residence of the bishop is at 160 W. 59th St., and his office at the Diocesan House, 29 Lafayette PI. A cathedral to cost several millions is to be built presently upon the high ground near the lower end of Morningside Park (W. noth St.). The oldest organization in the denomination and in the city (except the Dutch Reformed), and the wealthiest, and most ritualistic one in the United States, is Trinity Church.—It is on Broadway, facing Wall St., and the Rector St. station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry., whose trains overlook 157158 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. its churchyard, is close in its rear. The land on which Trinity Church now stands was the old West India Company’s farm, before the Conquest of Manhattan Island by the English. It then became “the King’s farm,” and in 1705 was granted to this, the Colonial Church. These lands embraced the entire tract' lying along the North River, between the present Vesey and Christopher streets. Much of it was subsequently given away to institutions of various sorts, but enough remains to constitute a property yielding about $500,000 income annually and worth an enormous amount at the market prices of real estate in that part of the city. - This income is spent in the maintenance of old Trinity and six chapels, besides aid to many subsidiary missions in various squalid parts of the city, to supporting a long list of charities, and to the care of Trinity Ceme- tery in Manhattanville. The original church, built in 1697, and rebuilt in 1737, was destroyed in the great fAe of 1776. It was not replaced for several years, St. Paul’s giving its hospitality to the parishioners; but in 1788 a new church was erected which stood for half a century. It was then torn down, and upon its site arose the present edifice, which was completed in 1846. Trinity Churchyard is beautiful in itself, and full of associations of monuments of historical interest. Many of the graves go back to the 17th century. Here are buried many well-known persons, among them Alexander Hamilton. It is open to the public daily. Of the monuments the most conspicuous is the “ Martyrs,” in the northeast corner, near the street. This was erected by the Trinity corporation in memory of the American patriots who died in British prisons in this city during the Revolutionary War. Another promi- nent monument, at the left of the entrance, is the one to the memory of Captain Lawrence, of the man-of-war Chesapeake,, whose dying cry, “ Don’t give up the ship,” is carved upon its pictured sides. St. Paul’s Church, which stands on Broadway between Fulton and Vesey Sts., and nearly opposite the Post Office, is in reality only a “ chapel ” of Trinity Parish. It is the rear which is seen upon Broad- way, the church originally facing toward the North River and com- manding a view of it. This edifice was built in 1764-6, and although the third in the order of its foundation is now the oldest church build- ing in the city. Its architecture is good and impressive, and its interior a chaste and carefully preserved example of the ecclesiastical fashion of 150 years ago. Its venerable walls have seen many mem- orable ceremonies, and in its churchyard are resting the bones ofCHURCHES AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 159 famous men and women. In the rear wall, facing Broadway, is a memorial tablet to General Richard Montgomery, the hero of Quebec, while in the churchyard are monuments to Thomas Addis Emmet, an Irish patriot, the actor, George F. Cooke, and others. Grace Church stands on Broadway at xoth St., just where the great thor- ough fa r e bends slight- ly westward; and it is therefore in view for a longdistance from both di- rect ions. The style is decorated Gothic, elab- orately car- ried out, and the rectory and adjoin- ing buildings are harmoni ously adapt- ed to it, while a pretty space of lawn and GRACE CHURCH. garden makes a pleasing foreground to one of the most gratifying architec- tural pictures in New York. Its spire is particularly graceful, and contains a melodious chime of bells. The windows and interior of Grace Church are very rich in decorations; and this church shares with St. Thomas the most fashionable weddings in the city. The Chantry—a small addition on the south side of the church, used160 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. for daily services—was erected by money given by the late Miss Catherine Wolfe. A building connecting the church and the rectory is used as a vestry and clergy house, and contains a library and read- ing room, open to members of the church; in the rear is a school. Back of the church, in Fourth Av., is a day nursery, erected by Mr. Levi P. Morton, in memory of his wife, for the reception of young children during the hours their mothers are at work, and known as the Grace Memorial Home. Grace Chapel belongs to the parish. St. George's, on Rutherford Place, overlooking Stuyvesant Sq., is descended from the congregation of the second Episcopal church erected in the city, which stood at Beekman and Cliff Sts., now the heart of the leather and hardware district. It is a very spacious and handsome building, and has an annex for the Sunday school, etc., built by Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan. Dr. Rainsford is rector. St. Mark's is another venerable church edifice, at Second Av. and xoth St. (9th St. Station, Third Av. El. Ry.), which covers the site of a chapel built by Stuyvesant, the last of the Dutch governors, whose bones rest beneath its floor. The present is the second building, erected in 1826. Its outer (eastern) wall has a memorial to Stuyvesant. St. Thomas' Church is at Fifth Av. and 53d St., and is perhaps the most fashionable of up-town houses of worship. Its paintings by Lafarge and its illuminated windows are justly admired. The Church of the Transfig^crat^on in 29th St., just east of Fifth Av., is now known all over the country as “ the little church 'round the corner.” This name is said to have been derived from the refusal some years ago of a certain pastor in Madison Av. to perform the burial service over the body of the aged actor, George Holland, bid- ding the emissary of his friends (who was Joseph Jefferson) go to “a little church ’round the corner,” where they might be accommo- dated. Since that time the players of the country have held this church and the late Dr. Houghton, its pastor, in veneration, and nearly all actors and actresses who die in New York are buried from it. A memorial window to Harry Montague is one of its features. It is a low, cruciform building, in Gothic style, shaded by trees; its walls are half covered with vines, it has a pretty lych-gate, and altogether is one of the most attrrotive houses of worship in the city. About eighty other churches an l chapels of this denomination exist within this city, nearly all of which are “ low church.” Presbyterianism is the method of one of the oldest and strongestCHURCHES AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 161 sects in New York. The First Church, founded in 1716, stood orig- inally in Wall St., near Broadway, but now occupies the block on Fifth Av. between nth and 12th Sts., with one of the mbst dignified edifices of its class in town. Nine pastors have succeeded one an- other there, the present being H. Duffield, D. D. The next oldest church is the Scotch (1756), now in 14th St. near Sixth Av. The Brick Church, whose tall spire crowns Murray Hill, is next in age, but overreaches both in social prominence. Originally (1765) it stood on the triangle opposite the City Hall, now occupied by the Times building. The former pastor was Dr. Henry Van Dyke. The Rutgers St. Church (now the Rutgers Riverside) was organized in 1798 down-town, and has finally moved to its present place at 73d St. and the Boulevard. The Fifth Avenue Presbyterian (pulpit of the late Dr. John Hall) is the most fashionable as well as the most popular of the churches of this denomination in New York, and is the successor of an old society organized in Cedar St. in 1808, which, after several removals, arrived at its present building at Fifth Av. and 55th St. This is a highly decorated specimen of Gothic architecture. The interior pre- sents as great a contrast to the conventional plain meeting-house of former days as can well be imagined. Neither carving nor color has been spared, and the effect produced is rather more that associated with a theater than with a church — an effect which the light wood used in the paneling and in the construction of the pews, and the gradual sloping of the floor from the entrance to the pulpit, help to bring out to its fullest extent. Dr. Hall came from Dublin, Ireland, in 1867, died in Ireland in 1898, and was buried there. The churches heretofore named are the original Presbyterian churches of the city, which number fifty-five in all, not including several mission chapels. A few others of the more prominent should be mentioned. The Madison Square Church is that of which Dr. William Adams was so long the pastor, succeeded by the present in- cumbent, the Rev. Charles H. Parkhurst. The Fourth Avenue, at Fourth Av. and 22d St., became famous under the pastorate of the late Dr. Howard Crosby. The Madison Avenue is under the care of the Rev. C. L. Thompson; the Church of the Covenant, long min- istered to by the Rev. Prof. Marvin R. Vincent, is now led by Dr. G. S. Webster; and the Phillips Church (formerly Fifteenth St.), at Madison Av. and 73d St., has as pastor Dr. J. E. Bushnell. The head- quarters for the many Presbyterian societies for church work, home162 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. missions, church, erection, etc., are in the splendid stone office-building at Fifth Av. and 21st St., called Lenox Hall. Methodist Episcopal.—Methodism is an old institution in New York.. The most ancient edifice is in Willet St., near Grand, but the John Street Church is entitled to foremost mention. This build- ing occupies the site of the first Methodist church in America, and is known as the cradle of American Methodism. The Allen St. Mem- orial, Rivington St. east of Orchard, is the successor of the church in Allen St., so famous in the religious annals of the city as the center of a remarkable revival about 1830. The Washington Square Churchy so called, occupies a marble building in 4th St., near Sixth Av. The Central Church{Seventh Av. near 14th St.) is the successor of that in Vestry St., and St. Paul's, now possessed of a fine edifice of marble, at Fourth Av. and 22d St., succeeds an old one in Mulberry St. The Eighteenth Street, between Eighth and Ninth Avs., is the “ Charter Church,” holding the original deeds, and its trustees are the legal successors of the first board. The Madison Avenue (at No. 659) has a fine brown-stone building recently erected; this is the church made famous by Dr. Newman, who numbered General Grant among his parishioners. The pulpit floor of another fashionable new M. E. Church, the Park Avenue, is made from timber from the original church in John St. Trinity (323 East 118th St.) has the largest mem- bership of any Methodist church in the city, and St. James in W. 126th St., stands second in this respect. St. Andrews, on 76th St., between Ninth and Tenth Avs., is in a fashionable location, and is the finest house of worship of this denomination in town A new and very artistic church is St. Paul's, West End Av. and 86th St. The Baptist church in New York goes back to an early date in local history, when a congregation met on Golden Hill, at the head of Burling Slip, where they were in danger of mob violence on account of their Arminian doctrines, which were distasteful to the rest of the people.1 Gov. Stuyvesant, however, guaranteed them protection, and the sect has thriven since, and now numbers fifty-two churches and missions. The most noted of these are: The Fifth Avenue, at W. 46th St.; Madiso7i Avenue, at E. 31st St.; Epiphany, Madison Av. and ,64th St.; Calvary, Sixth Av. and 57th St.; and the Abys- sinian (colored), 166 Waverley Place. Congregationalism has not grown as much in old New York as in Brooklyn. The foremost church is the Tabernacle, at Broadway and 34th St., of which the late Dr. W. M. Taylor was the pastor. TheCHURCHES AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 163 Central Church, at 57th St., between Eighth and Ninth Avs., and the Pilgrim Church, Madison Av. and E. 121st St., are most influen- tial societies. Of Unitarian churches New York has three, two of which are widely celebrated by reason of the eloquence of their pastors. A ll Souls is the oldest, and was made by the late Dr. Bellows the most prominent church of this denomination in the city, if not in the whole country. It stands at the corner of Fourth Av. and 20th St., and is very conspicuous through its red and white Byzantine style of archi- tecture. The Church of the Messiah, at 61 E. 34th St., cor- ner of Park Av., is now distin- guished by the oratory of the Rev. Robert Collyer, its pastor, and is a handsome structure. In Harlem the Unitarians wor- ship at Lenox Av. and 121st St. The Lutheran denomination is as strong in New York as might be expected of its large German population. Its churches are mainly on the East Side and in Harlem, but are not confined to those quarters. Nearly the old- est, if not quite so, is St. Ma- thias, at the corner of Broome and Elizabeth Sts., where ser- vice is still held and a school maintained in one of the worst in E. 73d St., is also prominent. James, TEMPLE EMANU-EL. precincts in the city. St. The “ German Evangelical Reformed” church is. at 97 Suffolk St. Quakers, or Friends, have two meeting houses, one at 144 E. 20th St., and another on Rutherford PL, facing Stuyvesant Sq. A Mora- vian sopiptj yrqrships at 154 Lexington Av., with a mission at 636164 I/ANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Sixth Av. Three Universalist churches may be found, viz.: Church of the Divine Paternity, 538 Fifth Av.; the Second, 82 W. 126th St.} and the Church of the Eternal Hope, 142 W. 81st St. The Israelitish population of the city has been growing with great rapidity during the past decade, and their synagogues now number about fifty. Most of them are small edifices, in the narrow East Side streets; but many are scattered along the avenues, and beautify them by their oriental architecture. Such are Beth-El, Fifth Av. and 76th St.; B'nai Jeshurun, Madison Av., near 65th St.; Hand in Hand and Temple Israel, in Harlem; Shaarai Tephila, Columbus Av. and 82d St., and, most notable of all, Temple Emanu-El, north- east corner of Fifth Av. and 43d St., which is the finest specimen of Moorish architecture in America, and one of the costliest religious structures in the city. It is built of brown and yellow sandstone, with the roof of alternate lines of red and black tiles. The center of the fagade on Fifth Av., containing the main entrance, is flanked by two towers or rather minarets, both richly carved. The congrega- tion belongs to the reform wing, under the pastorate of the learned Rabbi, G. Gottheil. Some miscellaneous churches and missions should not be forgotten. The Church of the Strangers, formerly at 299 Mercer St., where Dr. C. F. Deems was pastor, which appeals directly to readers of this book, has now been moved to No. 307 W. 57th St.; it still sustains important missions among the unfortunate. The Swedenborgians worship at 114 E. 35th St., and (in German) at 141 Chrystie. The Mariner's Church at 46 Catherine St. (near Chatham Sq.) is interesting, as are services at the Howard, Florence, Cremorne (104 W. 32d St.), and several other missions. Roman Catholic Churches. Roman Catholicism met with great prejudice ana material obstacles when it first endeavored to gain a foothold in New York, and failed to do so until after the Revolution ; but now it leads all other denominations in the number of its communicants drawn from, every rank of society. The Cathedral is the first, of course, of the Catholic churches, and the great show church of the city; it is described at length farther on. About 100 other Roman Catholic churches are catalogued, of which only a few need be commented upon. The oldest, as has been said, is St. Pete?''s (Barclay and. Church Sts.). Next in order of age come166 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. the Old Cathedral (St. Patrick’s church) at Mott and Prince Sts., now in the center of an Italian population ; it is underlaid by vaults (but burials have ceased), where Charles O’Connor, John Kelly, Judge Brady, and many prominent citizens and prelates of the last genera- tion are interred. Next oldest are St. Mary's (near Grand St. Ferry); St. Joseph's, Si. James', and St. Andrew's. Some notable churches are Epiphany (373 Second Av.), lately presided over by Dr. Burtsell; Immaculate Conception (505 E. 14th St.), where the Rev. John Edwards is pastor; St. Joseph’s (59 Sixth Av.), the parish of the late Father Farrell, celebrated as an anti-slavery preacher and writer before and during the Civil War. Churches distinguished by race are: Mount Carmel (447 E. 115th St.), Italian; St. Benedict the Moor (210 Bleecker St.), African ; St. Vincent de Paul (127 W. 23d St.), French; Immaculate Conception (Morrisania), St. Joseph's (E. 87th St. near First Av.), St. Joseph's (Ninth Av. and 125th St.), St. Mary Magdalen (17th St. and Av. B), German; and St. Stan- islaus' (43 Stanton St.), Polish. Vicar-General Mooney’s church, is that of the Sacred Heart (447 W. 51st St.); and Dr. Brann’s is St. Agnes (143 E. 43d St.). The Jesuits, besides the magnificent new church of St. Ignatiits (84th St. and Park Av.), have an imposing church and college dedicated to St. Francis Xavier in 16th St. near Sixth Av.; and the Dominican’s church is St. Vincent Ferrer, Lex- ington Av. and 66th St. All Saints, Madison Av., corner E. 129th St., is the most noted R. C. church in Harlem ; but the most fashion- able church of the city, next to the Cathedral, is probably St. Stephen's, 140 E. 28th St., formerly in charge of Doctor McGlynn, of which Dr. C. H. Colton is now pastor. THE CATHEDRAL. The Cathedral on Fifth'Av., between 50th and 51st Sts., should not be omitted from the list of places strangers ought to visit in New York. Its projector was the late Archbishop John Hughes, and the architect was James Renwick. All the designing and execution of the work, mechanical and artistic, was done in New York, except cer- tain adornments, hereafter mentioned. The corner-stone was laid on August 15, 1858, in the presence of 100,000 persons, who had room to stand on the adjacent-lots, then vacant. On May 25, 1879, the structure was dedicated by Cardinal McCloskey, who died in 1885.C From an elaborate account written by the architect, we learn that this cathedral is an example cf the decorated and geometric style ofCHURCHES AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 167 Gothic architecture which prevailed in Europe from 32 : to 1400, and of which the cathedral of Cologne and the nave of W: -tminster are advanced exponents; and that although Europe can boast larger ones, for purity of style, originality of design, harmony of propor- tions, beauty of material, and finish of workmanship, New York Cathedral stands unsurpassed. Architectural Details.—The plan is a Latin cross, and the dimen- sions are: Length, 306 ft.; breadth of nave and choir, 96 ft. without the chapels and 120 ft. with the chapels ; length of the transept, 140 ft.; height, 108 ft.; height of side isles, 54 ft. Above the granite base- course the whole exterior is of white marble from Pleasantville, West- chester County, N. Y., and from Lee, Mass. The principal front, on Fifth Av., consists of a central gable, 156 ft. in height, flanked by twin towers and spires, 330 feet high. The grand portal in the lower division of the central gable has its jambs richly decorated with col- umns with foliage capitals, and has clustered mouldings, with rich ornaments in the arch, which is also decorated and fringed with a double row of foliated tracery. It is intended at some future period to place statues of the Twelve Apostles in the coves of the jambs of this portal, in rich tabernacles of white marble. A transom of foliage with emblematic designs crosses the opening of the door, over which a window, with beautiful tracery, fills in the arch. The gablet over the main portal is richly paneled with tracery, having the arms of the diocese in the central panel. The label over the gable is crock- eted with an original design of the grapevine and morning-glory, intertwined and alternating in the crockets, and the whole is termin- ated by a very rich and beautiful finial. The door is flanked on either side by buttresses terminating in paneled pinnacles, and be- tween these buttresses and the tower buttresses are niches for statues. The horizontal balustrade over the first story is of rich pierced tracery. Over this and across the whole gable, except over the central portal, is a row of niches tor statues. Above, a richly moulded Gothic jamb incloses a magnificent rose window, 26 ft. in diameter, equaling those of the greatest cathedrals abroad. Above this rose window the main gable is carried up to the roof-lines, and is veiled by a pierced screen of rich tracery, termin- ated by a label cornice which is crocketed. The crockets are de- signed from leaves and flowers of the passion-flower, and at the gable entwine a foliated cross bearing the emblem of the Sacred Heart. The towers rise square to 136 ft., where they change into octagonal lanterns 54 ft. high, over which are the spires, 140 ft. in height, mak- ing the total height ot each tower and spire 330 ft.; they are flanked by massive buttresses decorated with very light and beautiful taber- nacles at each offset, and terminated by clustered pinnacles, which join the buttresses of the octagonal lanterns. The spires are octag- onal, built in two stories, have rich moulding in the angles, and the faces paneled with traceries; they terminate in a magnificent foliage finial carrying crosses made of copper. Circular stone stair-168 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. ways are carried up in the buttresses of the towers, and a full chime of nineteen.bells is placed at a height of no ft. above the ground. These twin spires are newer than the rest of the church and still white and perfect. They are visible for a long distance, should be studied through an opera-glass to realize how fine and beautiful is the carving. They are a subject of pride and delight to all the citizens of the metropolis. ■ Visitors should walk around the Cathedral and note the fine details of its architecture from various points of view — the buttresses, pin- nacles, and side arches ; the ornamented gables and great windows of the transept, 58 ft. high and 28 ft. wide. Four statues of the Greek Doctors, and six of the Latin church adorn the niches. Later on, all the Doctors of the Universal Church will be represented. The side aisles of the transept are flanked by octagonal buttresses, in which are stairways leading to the triforium and roofs. The apse, or curved head of the cruciform ground-plan, is five-sided externally, and, like the other parts, is divided by the buttresses into bays, each of • which is pierced by a grand window filled with stained glass. Other Religious Organizations. A great number of missionary and religious societies, both unsec- tarian and denominational, have their headquarters in this city. Some of these are national in character; others purely local. The great center of Protestant evangelical labor and influence of this kind is Bible House, an immense brick edifice, seven stories high an: occupying a whole block, bounded by Fourth Av., 8th St., Third Av., and 9th St. This building was erected in 1852 by the American Bible Society, an organization which began to print and diffuse the Scriptures in 1816, and has since distributed nearly 50,000,000 copies of the Bible, or important sections of it, in almost every recognized tongue. Here are the headquarters of the society, and a printing office, bindery, etc., employing 500 persons, where the Scriptures are printed in many languages. The Young Men’s Christian Association in New York is in a flourishing condition, and owns a large building at Fourth Av. and 23d St. The interior is divided into a reception-room, reading-room, parlors, lecture and concert hall (with a seating capacity of 1,400), lecture-rooms, class-rooms, library, g3nmnasium, bowling alley, and baths. On the top floor artists’ studios are rented. The building is open to visitors all day, the library may be used by strangers, and religious gatherings are held daily. The association sustains severeCPI UR CUES AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 169 branches in Second Av. and other parts of the city, of which the most notable is the Railroad branch, which . occupies a handsome building near the Grand Central Depot, given by Cornelius Vander- bilt. The Young Men’s Institute at 222-4 Bowery and the West End branch in W. 57th St. are worth a visit. The Young Women’s Christian Association occupies a beautiful home at No. 7 E. 15th St., and devotes itself to helping in every way the young working women of the city. It has a library and many other features which will make it an interesting object to ladies visit- ing the city, who can obtain lodgings and restaurant meals here. The Salvation Army has its American headquarters in a tall building erected in 1894 at 122 W. 14th St. It has other halls or stations for meetings, residence, etc., at 27th St. and Third Av.; Lexington Av. and 125th St.; 323 Bleecker St., etc. The American Volunteers, who seceded from the Salvation Army in 1895, have their headquarters, under Ballington Booth, at Fourth Av. and 16th St., where their Gazette is published. Other religious institutions having houses in New York include the following: The Christian Alliance and International Missionary Alliance, 692 Eighth Av., carries on evangelical work all over the world. The International Order of King's Daughters and Sons, an unsectarian “religious order of service,” has its Central Council at 156 Fifth Av. The Brotherhood of St. Andrew (Protestant Episcopal) has an office at 281 Fourth Av. The White Cross Society, Dr. L. F. DaCosta, president, is at 224 Waverley PI. The Door of Hope, for the regen- eration of fallen women, has its central home at 102 E. 61st St. Hospitals and Charities. Hospitals and Public Charities.—New York is justly proud of its hospitals, and any stranger suffering illness or accident in the city ought at once to place himself in one of them rather than remain at a hotel or boarding-house. Bellevue.—This is the most widely known hospital in America. It stands at the foot of E. 26th St., and is a “ long, grayish, four-story, prison-like structure, situated in a block which extends to the East River, and is inclosed by a high, forbidding stone wall. It was established in .1826, and Is under control of the Department of Charities which is permitted to expend upon it about $100,000 a year. For many years it has been famous for the high medical and surgical skill of which it is the theater, its faculty embracing many leading170 HANDY GU rDE TO NEW YORK CITY. members of the profession in the city.” Admission of patients (between io a. m. and 3 p. m.), is procurable upon the recommenda- tion of a physician, but contagious diseases are refused; accidents and sudden illness, at any time of day or night. Hours for visitors, from 11 a. m to 3 p. m. Within the grounds is the Bellevue Hos- pital Medical College, founded in 1861; it has taken a high rank, and has now about 500 students. The Morgue is another object of gruesome interest at Bellevue. It is a small, one-story building. In an inner room, protected by a partition of glass, the unknown and unclaimed dead lie outstretched, almost nude, upon marble slabs, and under the drip of icy water. Near Believre is the Emergency Hospital, 223 E. 26th St., for the relief of persons taken suddenly ill, and women on their way to Maternity Hospital, Other emergency hospitals are Gouverneur, in Gouverneur Slip; the Fordham Reception Hospital, 2456 Valen- tine Av., and the House of Relief, 67 Hudson St. The New York Hospital is next in popularity, and the oldest in the city. The office and residence is at No. 8 W. 16th St. But in 1877 there was opened in the rear of this office, a magnificent struc- ture facing W. 15th St. (near Fifth Av.), having every modern device for health and comfort. This hospital also maintains a branch “ house of relief,” for cases of accident or sudden illness, at 67 Hud- son St. This branch, as well as the main establishment, has ambu- lances, and gives free treatment in emergency cases. Other Hospitals.—Roosevelt, at 59th St. and Ninth Av., is con- structed on the pavilion plan, and is of great size and excellence. St. Ltike's Hospital, on Morningside Heights, is under the care of the Protestant Episcopal Church, but makes no distinction as to its patients. Another great semi-denominational hospital is the Presbyterian, Madison Av. and 70th St., where nine-tenths of the patients pay no money. Several hospitals and dispensaries are under Roman Catholic auspices, such as St. Vincent'sy 163 W. nth St. (visitors, Tuesdays and Fridays, 3 to 5 p. m.); St. Francis', 603 5th St., and St. foseph's, a branch of the above in Carmansville; and St. Elizabeth'sy 223 W. 31st St. No distinction as to religion or race is made as to applicants in any of these institutions. Several hospi- tals are especially intended for women and children, largest among which is the Wo7nan's Hospital of the State of New Yorky which receives many paying patients from other States.CHURCHES AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 171 The institutions over which the Departments of Charities and Cor- rection have control are on islands in the East River, whose large buildings are so conspicuous in passing up or down that river in a steamboat. The most important and most southern of the group is BlackwelEs Island, the lower end of which is opposite 50th St. Upon it are the great penitentiary, to which go offenders convicted in the police courts and reported as “sent to the island; ” also the almshouse, workhouse, several asylums, special hospitals, and the great Charity Hospital. Ward’s Island, next above, contains the insane asylum and some other buildings, and the institutions for the care of sick or incapable immigrants. Randall’s Island, north of Ward’s and at the mouth of Harlem River, contains the idiot asylum and several hospitals and schools for children. On Hart's Island is another insane asylum; and on North Brother Island the hospitals for contagious diseases. Private Philanthropies.— The Charity Organization Society, composed of the representatives of many of the charitable associa- tions in the city, exercises a general watchfulness over philanthropic labors in New York, and enables efforts toward doing good and sup- pressing evil to gain the strength of united and organized direction. The State Charities Aid Association supervises philanthropic work throughout the whole State, and promotes reforms by legislative means and otherwise. In New York County there are committees to visit the various departments of Bellevue and other hospitals and the institutions for the poor and insane on Ward’s, Blackwell’s, Randall’s, and Hart’s islands. Another committee is the managing board of the Training School for Nurses; and it is a branch of this association which has placed the big boxes seen in ferry houses and depots for the reception of the newspapers, books, and magazines which you have finished reading. The publications collected every day are distributed not only to hospitals and other institutions, but also to lighthouses and lonely life-saving stations. These two supervisory societies work cordially together and do immense service; and the office of both is in the magnificent building on the corner of Fourth Av. and 22d St., erected by John S. Kennedy in 1893 as a headquar- ters for benevolent societies and agencies. Of the private institutions for general assistance to the poor, none are more widely known than the Five Points House of Industry and the Five Points Mission, which stand across the street from 13m HANDY G UIDE TO N& IV YORK Cl TV. each other at the Five Points, which is only a short walk from Broad- way, through Worth St. Both were established about 1850, when that locality was the most vicious in the city. Now it is safe, quiet, and reasonably clean; and these missions, more than anything else, are entitled to credit for the change. Both of them assist the desti- tute of all classes, and find enough to occupy them within a very few blocks. They support missionaries among the tenement-house people, provide food, clothing, and necessaries for applicants thought worthy; maintain large schools, and provide for the health, educa- tion, etc., of great numbers of poor and neglected children, hundreds of whom are sent annually to homes in the interior of the country. The mission is now enjoying a new and much enlarged building. The Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor (105 E. 22d St.), assists 20,000 or more carefully investigated cases annually. The Hebrew Society for the Improvement of the Sani- tary Condition of the Poor (103 W. 55th St.) is another noteworthy agency in ameliorating the suffering in over-crowded tenements. The long list of special asylums and societies for the benefit of special classes of unfortunates, as the blind, deaf-mutes, orphans, etc., can not be given here. Lists of them can be found in the City Directory, or in the special Directory of the Charity Org. Society. A few words should be spared, however, in reference to the group of Humane Societies. — Of these the most widely known is the Society for the Prevention of Crtielty to Animals, founded by the late Henry Bergh, for it has branches in all principal cities in the United States and Canada. Its headquarters are now in a handsome stone edifice at the corner of Madison Av. and 26th St., where Oicr Animal Friends is also published. There is an agency in Brooklyn. The object of the society is the enforcement of the laws relating to the protection of and to prevent cruelty to animals in all parts of the United States. It has a staff of officers, uniformed much like policemen, who patrol the streets and have power to make arrests, and whose badge is a large silver shield stamped with the seal and name of the society. It also maintains a number of ambulances in which disabled horses are removed from any place where they may fall to a place where they may be cured. The Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children is a powerful organization now housed in the splendid new building lately erected for it at 23d St. and Fourth Av. by Elbridge T. Gerry, its president. Its object is the enforcement of laws relating to children,CHURCHES AND BENEVOLENT WORN. 173 their protection against and rescue from oppression and evil influ- ences, and their help when in need. The Society for the Suppression of Vice is managed by Mr. Anthony Comstock, and directs its attention mainly to the detection and seizure of obscene literature, and the -punishment of offenders under the laws against gambling; office, 41 Park Row. The Society for the Prevention of Crime is presided over by the Rev. Dr. Parkhurst, and has a very similar scope; office, 105 E. 22d St. Other important philanthropic associations are: Actors’ Fund, 12 W. 28th St.; Baptist Home Mission, 111 Fifth Av.; Female Guardian Society and Home for the Friendless, 29 E. 29th St.; Kindergarten Society, 70 Fifth Av.; Sabbath Union, 203 Broadway; Seamen’s Friend Society, 76 Wall St.; Sunday School Union, 111 Fifth Av.; Association for Befriending Women and Young Girls, 136 Second Av.; Association Fraterna Italiana, 64 S. Washington Sq.; Bowery Mission, 105 Bowery; Catholic Sailors’ Friends, 178 Christopher St.; Cercle Francais L’Amitie, 440 Sixth Av.; Children’s Aid Society, 105 E. 22d St.; City Vigilance League, 105 E. 22d St.; Civil Service Reform Association, 54 William St.; College Settlement Association, 95 Rivington St.; Consumers’ League, 120 E. 34th St.; Lutheran Emigrant Mission, 8 State St.; Evangelical Alliance, 105 E. 22d St.; German Missions, 6 and 27 State St.; Irish Emigrant Society, 51 Chambers St.; Jewish Immigrants Protective Society, 210 E. 118th St.; Ladies’ Health Protective Association, 105 E. 22d St.; Legal Aid Society, 233 Broad- way; Working Girls’ Societies, 244 W. 26th St.; Penny Provident Fund, 101 E. 22d St.; Provident Loan Society, 279 Fourth Av.; Typothetse, 106 Fulton St.; United Hebrew Charities, 128 Second Av.; Working Women’s Protective Union, 312 W. 54th St.IX. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. Public Schools. The public school system of the city consists of graded schools, evening schools, corporate schools (industrial schools, reformatories, orphan asylums, etc.), the nautical school on the St. Mary, the Normal College and the College of the City of New York, and several high schools, notably that for boys at 60 West 13th St. The total now exceeds 400 schools, and it is constantly being amplified, yet loud complaints are heard of the inadequacy of the accommoda- tions. The whole system is under control of the Board of Education, at 490 Park Av. It comprises every phase of school life, from the kindergarten and truant schools to the College of the City of New York and the Normal College for training teachers, and has to provide for not less than half a million ordinary pupils, daily, as well as for the necessary instructors and buildings. The attendance at school of children between the ages of 8 and 12 years is compulsory for the entire school year ; that of children be- tween 12 and 16 for only a part of the year, if otherwise employed and wage-earners. Free evening and vacation schools are also sus- tained by the city. The school buildings are distributed all over town, and many of them will seem very dreary abodes to visiting teachers, but the situation is a necessity of city-crowding. Such persons will find schools which in appearance, equipment, discipline, and thoroughness will well repay a visit, at 104th St. and Amsterdam Av., and at 134th St. and Lenox Av. The College of the City of New York is open free to all young men residing in this city, and prepared at the city schools, and it offers both a literary-classical and a scientific course, each four years in length. There is also a mechanical course of instruction, and a post-graduate course in engineering. The total number of students 174THE LIBRARY OF COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY—116th Street, between Amsterdam Avenue and Boulevard. 175176 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK* CITY. approaches 900, only one-third, of whom are engaged in classical studies. This college occupies the large, turreted brick building on the southeastern corner of 23d St. and Lexington Av., which contains a cabinet of natural history, a library of 25,000 volumes, and much laboratory apparatus. The Normal College, for young women, is a free institution sustained by the city, corresponding with the last mentioned, and intended especially for training girls to serve as teachers. It has an immense monastic-looking building in 69th St., between Fourth and Lexington Avs., which cost $500,000. Most of its graduates enter the service of the city as teachers. The curriculum includes Latin, physics and chemistry, German, natural science, French, drawing, music, etc. Some years ago a five years’ classical course was inaugurated, which entitles students at graduation to the degree of A. B. A model or training school is erected in the rear, in which pupil-teachers have an opportunity to supplement their theoretic studies with the practical. The morning exercises in the chapel at 9 o’clock are open to the public. Take Fifth Av. stages or Fourth or Lexington Av. electric-cars to 69th St., or the Third Av. El. Ry. to 67th St. All of the above mentioned schools and institutions are free, and are under control of the Board of Education. Columbia University. Columbia University is the foremost institution of higher learning in New York, and one of the foremost in the United States. It began in 1754, as King’s College, under a charter from the English crown and by aid of money raised mainly in England, The Trinity Church corporation took an interest in it from the start, and presently made it a grant of land between what is now College Place and North River, from the sale or rental of which a large part of the Univer- sity’s income has since been derived. During the Revolution its ses- sions were interrupted and its buildings appropriated to the use of the troops. After that war the Legislature of the State made a grant of land and reincorporated it as Columbia College, under a board of regents, afterward changed to twenty-four self-perpetuating trustees. The institution erected buildings on College Place and occupied them until 1857, when the College was moved to its third home between 49th and 50th Sts., east of Madison Av. This was outgrown in a generation or so, and, in 1897, was abandoned for what is comEDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETCL 177 sidered a permanent home on Morningside Heights. The grounds now cover nearly eighteen acres between the Boulevard and Amster- dam Avenue, from 116th to 120th St.; it was formerly occupied by the Bloomingdale Insane Asylum, and cost $2,000,000. The build- ings occupy a high, leveled site, facing southerly, and ultimately will form a quadrangle, nearly surrounding the Library. Only a few now exist. The Library, whose great gray dome is a stately feature in the landscape, was erected at the cost (about $1,000,000) of Seth Low, President of the University 1890-1902, as a memorial to his father, the late A. A. Low of this city. It is a cruciform building, having an Ionic colonnade in front and a noble entry between pillars of dark, polished Irish marble. The interior is a rotunda open to the dome, which will be used as a reading room, while the surrounding parts of the building are devoted to the books, and to various other purposes, including, at present, many recitation-rooms. The sixteen pillars of the rotunda are of Vermont syenite, with gilded Ionic capitals. In the rear of this building is the beginning of University Hall, the base- ment stories only of which are finished. These contain the power- house, a tier of business offices, and the extensive and highly modern gymnasium and athletic appliances. A noble superstructure is to be erected here, containing various offices and halls, and the academic theater, occupying the semicircular, apse-like rear part. Four lab- oratory buildings are now completed and in service. Schermerhorn Hall, next east of University Hall, is devoted to biological sciences, and contains, besides laboratories and lecture-rooms, an interest- ing museum of natural history, open to the public. Beside it are the Physics Building, Earl, South, and Fayerweather Halls, Havemeyer Hall, devoted to chemistry, and the Engineering Building, containing the machinery needed in practical instruction. The outer (Boulevard) front of the latter building bears a spirited bronze memorial tablet, modeled by James E. Kelly, to Knowlton and the Battle of Harlem Heights, which was fought about here Sept. 16, 1776. The five “ colleges” or departments of the University now estab- lished are: 1. Arts. 2. Science. 3. Law. 4. Political Science. 5. Medicine. The College of Arts is the oldest and central department, and embraces the classical and literary curriculum usual in a collegi- ate course of four years. The Department of Science now embraces all that used to constitute the almost separate “ School of Mines,” long famous in the history of Columbia, and so much of the other courses a,s touch its province. A four years’ course will give degrees178 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of Mining Engineer, Civil Engineer, Metallurgical Engineer, and Bachelor of Philosophy. For the degree of Doctor of Philosophy there is a post-graduate course of two years. The Law School has quarters in the Library, and a large attendance; its course is two years. The Department of Political Science offers a three-years’ course in the broadest scope of political economy, conferring the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. The Department of Medicine is better known as “The College of Physicians and Surgeons.” It occupies extensive buildings on 6oth St., between Ninth and Tenth Avs., close to Roosevelt Hospital, in which (and in other hospitals) much of the instruction is given. These buildings, and the affiliated Maternity Hospital, near by, are due to the gifts of various members of the Vanderbilt family; while Edwin Gould, of the class of ’88, has erected for the University a fine boat-house at the foot of West 115th St. (North River). The University now has some 60 members of the faculty and nearly 2,000 students. The Barnard Annex is the name of a course of study for women, parallel with that of undergraduates in the School of Arts, for which a fine building has been prepared at the Boulevard and 120th St. Its graduates receive diplomas equivalent to University degrees. The Teacher’s College and Horace Mann School is a large insti- tution on the north side of 120th St., for instruction with special reference to preparation for teaching; and it is closely affiliated with Columbia. University of the City of New York. This institution is stronger than its comparatively narrow reputa- tion would lead an outsider to suppose. Its lack of recognition in the past is largely due to the fact that its quarters have been scat- tered, so that it has made little visible impression by means of imposing halls and a broad campus, as is the wont of colleges. Its original and main building was the castellated and historic structure which had stood for sixty years at the northeastern corner of Wash- ington Square; but that was demolished in 1894, and is now replaced by a tall, modern structure, whose top floors only will be occupied by the University. Here have been fixed the offices of the administra- tion, the Law School (hitherto one of the strong points), and the School of Pedagogy. The various undergraduate schools and departments of Arts and Sciences which form the nucleus of the institution, however, areED UCA riONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, E TC. 179 quartered in a series of new buildings, approaching completion, upon an extensive scale, within an elevated park-like inclosure on the east bank of the Harlem River, near Kingsbridge, which include a Hall of Fame, 500 feet long, built about the Library, containing 150 panels in which ultimately will be fixed bronze tablets, commemorating great and famous Americans. It was the gift of Miss Helen Gould. The Union Theological Seminary, now in academic relation to the University, occupies a building at Fourth Av. and 69th St. This widely known school was founded in 1836, and is the principal place of training for ministers of the Presbyterian church, but ifs students may come from any evangelical denomination, so long as they can show a certificate of good church standing. The library is founded upon a gift of 13,000 volumes by L. Van Ess, and now contains about 00,000 books and nearly 50,000 pamphlets and manuscripts. As would be expected it is very rich in rare and ancient theological books and MSS., specimens of early Bibles, first printings, and rare tracts. The Faculty of Medicine occupies spacious buildings at the foot of E. 26th St., and contiguous to Bellevue Hospital (which see). These buildings (whose two amphitheaters, together, will seat 1,000 pupils) are modern and admirably adapted to their purposes. At- tached is the Loomis Laboratory, the cost of which ($100,000) was defrayed by an unknown friend on condition that his name be kept secret, and the laboratory be directed and named after Dr. Alfred Loomis. Much of the instruction is given in the wards and lecture rooms of Bellevue, and it is consequently of a very practical character. Miscellaneous Institutions. The Cooper Union, or Institute, is an enormous building at the head of the Bowery, where Fourth Av. branches off to the left and Third Av. to the right. It was erected by the late Peter Cooper in 1857, at a cost of $630,000, and endowed with $300,000 for the support of the free reading-room and library. The purpose is philanthropic, and embraces day and evening schools of various kinds. Besides those which have a regular academic course, there are art schools for men and women, free school of telegraphy and of type-writing for women, and other special departments. As the thousands of pupils who attend these classes are drawn almost entirely from the people who must work, all of the instruction tends to the practical. (See p. 1S7.)m •HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Roman Catholic Institutions.—Of these the leading college is St. Francis Xavier’s, whose beautiful new building next to St. F. Xavier’s Church, in West 16th St., near Sixth Av., is one of the architectural ornaments of the city. This is a day college, in charge of the Jesuit Fathers, and numbers about 450 students, who come daily from their homes to the class-rooms. It has a reference library of 20,000 volumes and a small circulating library. Another able institution under charge of the same pedagogical order is St. John’s College, at Ford- ham, a station on the Harlem R. R., at the extreme northeastern edge of the city, where the spacious and beautiful grounds of Rose Hill surround the school. Manhattan College is a third strong R. C. school, situated in Manhattanville, and reached by the cable cars. The great Academy of the Sacred Heart, one of the oldest and best xnown Catholic schools for girls, is also in Manhattanville; and another noted convent school is that of Mt. St. Vincent, on the Hud- son River, above Riverdale, a branch of which is maintained by the Sisters of Charity, in 17th St., between Fifth and Sixth Avs. Libraries and Reading-Rooms, The Public Library system will not be complete until the opening of the central building between 40th and 42d Sts., on the west side of Fifth Av., the headquarters of the New York Public Library,* Astor, Lenox, and Tilden foundations. . The consolidation of these founda- tions was effected under the State laws of 1892 and 1895, and in December of that year, Dr. John Shaw Billings, U. S. A. (retired), was chosen director. At the time of the consolidation the Astor library owned its site and buildings in Astor Place, had an endowment fund of about $941,000, producing an annual income of about $47,000, and contained 267,147 volumes. The Lenox library owned its site and building, Fifth Av., had an endowment fund of $505,500, producing an annual income of $20,500, and contained about 86,000 volumes. The Tilden Trust possessed Mr. Tilden’s private library in his late residence, containing about 20,000 volumes, and an endowment fund estimated at $2,000,000, making the total number of volumes in the New York Public Library 373,147, and the total endowment funu about $3,446,500. The departments of the New York Public Library for the free circu- lation of books are the Bond St. Branch, 49 Bond St.; Ottendorfer Branch, 135 Second Av.; George Bruce Branch, 226 W. 42dSt.; Jack- son Sq. Branch, 251 W. 13th St.; Harlem Branch, 218 E. 125th St.; Muhlenberg Branch, 130 W. 23d St.; Bloomingdale Branch, 206 W. 100th St.; Riverside Branch, 261 W. 69th St.; Yorkville Branch, 1523-. Second Av.; 34th St. Branch, 215 E. 34th St.; Chatham Sq. Branch, 22 E. Broadway; St. Agnes Branch, 2279 Broadway; TravellingEDUCA TIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 181 Libraries, 206 W. 100th St. The office of the chief of the department is at 226 W. 42d St. Telephone, 2479-38^1 St. The branches are open from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. on week days, but are closed during the entire day on New Year’s Day, Decoration Day, the Fourth of July, Presidential Election Day, Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas Day; after 6 p. m. on Easter Day and Christmas Eve., and on Election Day (when not Presidential) after 5 p. m. The sites of the libraries, to be erected to meet the endowment fund of Andrew Carnegie, have not been determined upon. The Lenox (Fifth Av. and 70th St.) is a treasure-house of sculpt- ures, paintings, ceramic and other kinds of artistic production (see Art); and of manuscripts, rare and curious specimens of early print- ing and binding, and costly and unusual editions, the gift to the city of the late James Lenox. It is now open to the public all day for study or reading, and contains all the Public Library works on cer- tain subjects, as music and early American history. The building was begun in 1870. Of the most precious books, a very large number are specimens of the first products of the typo- graphic art, first editions, Bibles, Shakespeariana, and Americana. There are also copies of every known edition of Walton’s “Angler,” of Bunyan’s “ Pilgrim’s Progress,” and of nearly every known edition of Milton. A great number of exceedingly valuable MSS. and illu- minated books on vellum are present. The collection of Bibles includes a perfect copy of the so-called “ Mazarin” Bible, the product of Gutenburg and Faust at Mainz, about 1445, and five copies of Eliot’s Indian Bible. Examples of these Bibles, and many of the curiosities further men- tioned, are displayed in glass table-cases, where they can be examined almost as well as if held in the hand. These cases contain specimens of the very first imprints of both Europe and America. There are many “ block books,’’for example, representing the stage of printing before the invention of movable types, when, after the fashion of the Chinese, a page was cut on a wooden block, among them two copies of the “ Biblia Pauperum,” a small folio of 40 leaves, the most cele- brated of this class of books, and supposed to have been executed about 1430. Caxton's press is represented by no less than seven speci- mens, one of which is a fragment of Fevre’s “ Recuyell of the Histo- ries of Troye,” issued at Bruges about 1474, being the first book printed in the English language. A copy of this has been sold for over $5,000. There are also copies of the “ Doctrina Christiana,” one of the earliest products of the Roman Catholic press in Mexico—the first press on the American continent—and of the “ Bay Psalm Book,” the first book printed within the territory of the United States, dated Cambridge, 1640. As to modern books the library is especially rich in bibliophilistic gems, fine bindings, and books of illustrations and the illustrative arts. Art galleries occupy the second and third doors, and contain about182 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. 150 pictures, including- many of great note. Among these are a por- trait, considered an original, of John Bunyan, one portrait of Wash- ington, by James Peale, three by Rembrandt Peale, and one (full length) by Gilbert Stuart. Here is Munkacsy’s great picture, “Blind Milton Dictating ‘ Paradise Lost ’,” which was the masterpiece of the Paris Exposition of 1878, and has been so often engraved. There is one Andrea del Sarto, “ Tobit and the Angel one Delaroche, “ The Field of Battle”; one Gainsborough, called “A Romantic Woody Landscape”; one Horace Yernet, “The Siege of Saragossa”; sev- eral Wilkies, Verboeckhovens, Gilbert Stuarts, Reynoldses, and Les- lies ; two Copleys, and a like number of Turners. The Turners are “A Scene on the French Coast, with an English Ship of War Stranded,” painted in 1831, and “ Staff a, Fingal’s Cave,” first exhib- ited in 1832, and bought from the artist for Mr. Lenox by Leslie in 1845. There are also several statues, busts, and cases of pottery, etc. The Astor Library is the most popular consulting library in the city. It occupies a substantial building of brown stone and brick, in the Romanesque style, now headquarters of the Public Library. It was founded by the will of John Jacob Astor, who died in 1848, leaving $400,000 for that purpose. His son, William B. Astor, added upward of $550,000 to this endowment; and his grandson, the late John Jacob Astor, gave about $700,000 more. This library is open from 9 a. m. until 6 p. m., but never in the even- ing; and is used by some 125,000 readers of all types annually, from the most casual idler in literature to the most learned and indefati- gable investigators. Students in the higher schools and institutions of learning and active journalists form a large class of its patrons. Within the entrance, on the ground floor, is a large hall, adorned by marble busts of Roman heroes, copied from the antique. Here a warden requires you to leave in his care any books or packages you may be carrying, and also your cane or umbrella, and he gives you a check for them. Ascending the marble staircase to the second floor, you arrive in the lofty central hall, and find yourself surrounded by alcoves of books supported upon galleries, and rising to a great height on every side. Right and left arches open into spacious wings of similar structure, where long tables and scores of arm-chairs are set for readers. In the main hall some tables are especially reserved for ladies, but there is no impropriety in their going into the other rooms if they please. - A large number of current periodicals and cyclopedic, historical, and general reference works may be con- sulted freely; and any person, by writing upon the small blank furnished him the titles and shelf-numbers of any other books, and his name and address, can have the use during the day of as many books as he needs. No books are ever lent out of the building.EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 183 Volumes of printed catalogues lie near the office desks, and also an admirable card catalogue; and you should look up in one or the other of these the name of each book asked for, in order to put upon your card the Library’s “ shelf-number,” which will be found written on the catalogue margin, opposite each title. Having handed in your slip, you wait until the book is delivered to you. The Astor Library is well lighted through the roof, is well warmed and ventilated, toilet-rooms are attached, and altogether is one of the pleasantest places for study in the country. The librarian and his assistants are not only learned, but full of kindness in assisting readers; and they give out about 400,000 volumes each year — three-fourths of the^total number of books now possessed by the Astor. The total capacity of the upper halls is about 300,000, but there is storage for 200,000 more on the ground floor. Among the treasures are rare MSS. in Greek and Latin, given by Mr. Astor, and the elephantine volume of chants used at the coronation of the French kings for many years, superbly illuminated with vignettes by well-known early French artists. All the current magazines and trade journals will be found in the south hall, and back volumes may be had on application to the librarian in charge. The Cooper Union Library and Reading Room (three minutes’ walk from the Astor Library) forms one of the strongest features of that great institution (y. v.), and one which Mr. Cooper felt to be so important that he endowed it with a fund of $300,000. It occupies an immense room on the third floor, the walls of which are lined with shelves of books, each in a jacket of strong paper. Long tables are supplied for readers of books and magazines, which are given out from a desk, on deposit of the metal check which every one who enters must accept and must return when he leaves the room. The library contains about 20,000 volumes, principally practical and instructive; and is noted as the jDossessor of a complete set of both the old and new series of Patent Office reports, which are consulted yearly by almost 2,000 persons. Each volume has been carefully indexed, making them invaluable for reference. The library is open in the evening and then is crowded by a class of readers who have no time during the day to spend in gathering information or in taking intellectual amusement. More interesting to the stranger, however, will be the sight of the long tables and racks filled with newspapers and period- icals and pored over by crowds of men and boys, generally poorly dressed, often dirty, but all orderly, quiet, and eager to read. This is one of the sights of the city, and the visitor will easily accept the statement that between 450 and 460 newspapers and periodicals are taken in here. The only other really large public reading-room in the city is that at the Y. M. C. A. building.18-1 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Few of the other libraries in the city will repay a visit by the casual observer. The most important lending libraries are the Apprentices’, the Mercantile, and the Free Circulating. The Apprentices’, 18 W. 16th St., has nearly 100,000 volumes which cir- culate widely among all classes of readers, accomplishing a wide service in education. The Free Circulating Library is less than ten years old, but circulates about 450,000 volumes annually from four offices, one of which is devoted to books in German. The Aiguilar Libraries are four branches of an institution circulating selected books in the poorer quarters of the city, under the patronage of a society of Jewish men and women of prominence. The Mercantile Library occupies rooms in its new building at Lafayette Place and 8th St., and owns over 200,000 volumes of general interest, new books being added as fast as issued. The ordinary fee is $5 annually, or $3 for six months. The public are admitted only to the outer office, which contains nothing to interest the sight-seer. The upper part of the city profits by the old IIa}'lent Library, founded in 1825 and connected with much interesting local history; it is at 2238 Third Av., between 121st and i22d Sts. Other libraries which might be added to this list would interest specialists only and need not be expatiated upon in this book, except to say that a law library is open to public inspection in Rooms 116-122, Post- office Building. Besides more than 30,000 legal works, this library contains portraits of Thomas Addis Emmet, Chancellor Kent, and Judge Greene C. Bronson; and busts of James T. Brady and John Anthon. Among the books are many very scarce copies of law reports; a few books belonging to Alexander Hamilton, and contain- ing numerous entries in his handwriting; a note-book of Lord Hard- wicke; and the cases and opinions of Charles O’Conor. The Society Library, University Place and 12th St., is another large private circulating library, very rich in books of art, history, and genealogy, and similar lines, and containing some notable portraits and historical mementos. Art Galleries. Fine arts have made a very notable advance in New York during the last few years, in the direction of exhibition and general popu- larity, not only, but toward a higher standard of work and more thorough methods of teaching. The one really great public gallery of the city is that of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which isEDUCA TIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 185 described in the general account of that institution (pp. 68-70). The Lenox Library has a small gallery of fine pictures open daily; and the New York Historical Society, Second Av. and nth St., pos- sesses many portraits, examples of the Dutch masters, and pieces of statuary, to which visitors are admitted by card from a member of the society. The principal gath- ering place of art in the metropolis is The American Fine Art Society, 57th St. be- tween Seventh Av. and Broadway. In its galleries are located The National Society of Mural Painters, The New York Chap- ter of the American Institute of Archi- tects, The Society of American Artists, The National Sculp- ture Society, The American Fine Art Society, The Fine Arts Federation of New York, The New York Water Color Club, The New York Academy of Design, The Society of Beaux Arts Archi- tects, and The Art Students’ League. The Academy holds an exhibition of new paintings in the early spring of each year, and several prizes, ranging from $100 to $300 are distributed. During the first two days of the exhibitions, which are known as “ varnishing day, ” and “ private view” or “ buyers’ day,” admission can only be obtained by a card of invitation from the sec- AMERICAN FINE ART SOCIETY.HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. 1 H(> retary, and these are eagerly sought for. During the succeeding weeks the gallery is open to the public from 9 a. m. until 10 p. m. upon payment of an admission fee of 25 cts. There is also an exhi- bition in the fall, Avhere work less ambitious, but often none the less interesting, is shown to the public. The Water Color Society is closely allied to the Academy of Design. It has no rooms, the secretary’s address is Fine Art Society, 215 W. 57th St., N. Y. The object of this society is the advancement of painting in water-colors, and it holds an annual exhibition at the American Art Association, 6 E. 23d St., of the work of its resident members, which occurs in late January or early February, and forms one of the most interesting and important art events of the )^ear. In connection with this exhibition there is a display of the year’s results by members of the Etching Club. The Centennial Exhibition gave a great impetus to the fine arts in this country, one result of which has been the establishment in this city within the last fifteen years of a number of promising art societies in addition to these just mentioned. Five of these societies form a group, which have combined their forces into a “ Fine Arts Society,” intending to be a working institution, as distinguished from a club of painters. It has erected a handsome buildings 15 W. 57thSt., adapted to exhibitions, schools, and all other needs. In the great gallery of this building, several exhibitions of pictures occur annually, of which the most striking is that in May of the Society of American Artists, founded in 1877 by some of the younger men of that time who were not in accord with the policy of the National Academy and thought there was room for a second institution. This building is also the home of the National Sculpture Society, and of the Art Students’ League, a school of instruction in all branches of the graphic arts; each exhibits work once a year. The purely commercial side of art in New York has much to interest one. At the galleries of the American Art Association, 6 E. 23d St., two exhibitions and sales are held spring and autumn, and often at other times there are special exhibitions of extreme interest, as when Verestchagin showed his collection there in the spring of 1889. The principal art dealers have long been accustomed to add to the pleasures of the public by throwing open their collections of modern paintings, chiefly foreign, which are well worth examination. Auctions of pictures are rarely worth attending, unless some well-known private collection is to be disposed of.METROPOLITAN CLUB —Northeast corner Fifth Avenue and Sixtieth Street. m 14X. CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. Social Clubs. In a book of this character the subject of social clubs need not con- sume much space, since without an invitation from a member nothing more than the outside of the club-houses can be seen by a stranger. In mat / cases, indeed, there is little to reward curiosity inside, while some, like the Union League, and others of the older and more prominent class, have splendid rooms filled with treasures of art, as well as all the appliances of comfort and luxury, which the modern upholsterer, decorator, and cook are able to supply. Clubs have increased in numbers and expanded in membership and importance with the growth of the city, and will continue to do so. The following is an alphabetical list of the leading social clubs in New York and Brooklyn, with brief remarks: Aldine, hi Fifth Av.—Business men. Avion, Park Av. and 59th St. Army and Navy, 16 W. 31st St.—Military men. Authors', Carnegie Music Hall.—Literary men. Calumet, 267 Fifth Av.—An offshoot from the Union Club. Catholic, 120 W. 59th St.—Its members are Roman Catholics of wealth and social prominence, occupying a spacious and very beauti- ful club house facing the south side of Central Park. Century, 7 W. 43d St.—The oldest and strongest club in the country having an intellectual object; its members are chosen for their interest and attainments in literature and the fine arts, as well as for social qualities. Strangers are admitted by card to its monthly literary entertainments. Church, 578 Fifth Av.—Episcopalian. City, 19 W. 34th St.—Improvement of municipal government. 188CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. 189 Colonial, 127 W. 72d St.—A beautiful new bouse. Deutscher Verein (German Club), 112 W. 59th St.—The most ex- clusive German society, having an elegant house, a large part of which is open to the ladies of the members’ families. Democratic, 617 Fifth Av.—Tammany politicians. Down-town Association, 60 Pine St.—Business men. Engineers, 374 Fifth Av.—Civil engineers, architects, etc. Fencers.—37 W. 22d St.—-Sword exercise. “ Greek Letter ” Clubs, composed of members of college fraterni- ties having Greek names, commonly represented by their initials: Alpha Delta Phi, 35 W. 33d St.; Chi Phi, 2 Wall St.; Delta Kappa Epsilon, 435 Fifth Av.; Delta Phi, 56 E. 49th St.; Delta Psi (St. Anthony), 29 E. 28th St.; Psi Upsilon, 44 W. 44th St.; Phi Gamma Delta, 604 W. 114th St.; Zeta I’si, 148 W. 34th St. Harlem, Lenox Av. and 123d St.—Leading club of Harlem. Harmonie, 45 E. 23d St.—The leading Hebrew social club. Harvard, 27 W. 44th St.—Alumni of Harvard University. Knickerbocker, 319 Fifth Av.—A club of the “ gilded youth.” Knickerbocker Athletic, Madison Av. and 45th St.—Formerly the Manhattan Athletic Club, and heir to a magnificent house. Lambs', 70 W. 36th St.—Actors and men interested in the stage. Lawyers, 120 Broadway.—A luncheon club for lawyers and others doing business down town. It has magnificent rooms. Lotos, 558 Fifth Av.—Composed mainly of writers, actors, artists, and professional men. Monthly art receptions are held during the winter, and a Ladies’ Day each month, when music and recitations are added. If you are offered a card to one of the “ Saturday Nights,” take it and go, for the entertainment will be excellent. - Manhattan, Madison Av. and 26th St.—A distinctively political as well as social club, representing the Democratic party, and especi- ally the Cleveland wing. It occupied, until 1899, the mansion of A. T. Stewart, and includes many wealthy and prominent politicians. Merchants, New York Life Ins. Bldg.—A social and commercial club. Metropolitan, Fifth Av. and 60th St.—Composed of men of great wealth, and commonly known as the Millionaires’ Club. It is of recent organization, and has a superb marble home facing Central Park, just above the Plaza. 4190 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. New York Athletic, Sixth Av. and 59th St., and New Rochelle. New York, Fifth Av. and 35th St.— One of the old and exclusive social clubs, composed largely of Wall St. Men. Its house was formerly the home of Governor E. D. Morgan. New York Yacht, 67 Madison Av.—This is the leading American yacht club, and is the custodian for the '‘America Cup,” for inter- national races. Ohio Society, Rooms, Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.—Natives or former residents of Ohio, and their sons. The Players, 16 Gramercy Park.—An exclusive club of actors of the highest rank, managers, and professional men. Its house was the gift of the late Edwin Booth, and its library is a priceless col- lection of dramatic lore, the play-bills gathered by Augustin Daly, the libraries of Edwin Booth and Lawrence Barrett, etc. Press, 34 W. 26th St.—Journalists. Progress, Fifth Av. and 63d St.—A social club of Hebrews. Racquet and Tennis, 27 W. 43d St.—Athletic sports. Reform, 233 Fifth Av.—A social club of men interested in low- tariff measures. Republican, 450 Fifth Av.— A large social club, active in Repub- lican politics. Riding, 7 E. 58th St.—The “swellest” riding and driving club. St. Nicholas, 7 W. 44th St.—An aristocratic club composed exclu- sively of men whose ancestors resided in New York prior to 1785. Salmagundi. 14 W. 12th St.—Artists exclusively. Twelfth Night, 23 W. 44th St.—Ladies of the dramatic profession. Union, Fifth Av. and 21st St.— The first American club which was formed upon English models and was a real club as the term is now understood. It was founded in 1836, and had a succession of down- town resting places until 1855, when it moved into its present luxuri- ous house. This club has consisted from the very first of the “ social magnates of New York,” and it is now contemplating removal to an uptown house near Central Park. Union League, Fifth Av. and 39th St.— Although now one of the foremost social clubs, it grew out of an association of leading citizens banded together in 1863 for the support of the Union, and has ever since been a distinctively Republican organization. The present mag-THE UNION LEAGUE CLUB—Northwest corner Fifth Avenue and Thirty-ninth Street.192 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. nificent club house contains as an unusual feature a large art gallery, where extraordinary loan exhibitions are occasionally displayed, and which serves as a hall for entertainments. This club gives monthly receptions, at which new American pictures and foreign pictures loaned by private collectors are exhibited. Admission to these recep- tions is by card, obtainable from members. A ladies’ reception is given annually, and is a brilliant social event. University, Fifth Av. and 54th St.—A new granite palace. Women's Press Club, Carnegie Hall. Yale, 30 W. 44th St.—Alumni of Yale University. A capital sketch of clubs and club life in old and modern New York was furnished by Mr. Henry L. Nelson, as a supplement to Harper's Weekly, for March 15, 1890. Secret Orders. All, probably, of the secret orders and societies in the United States have representatives in New York, and for many it is the American headquarters. Several of these stand before the public more in a social aspect, or otherwise, than on account of any secrecy in their proceedings, and are mentioned elsewhere, e. g. the “ Greek letter societies” of collegians, above. Along list of others may be found in Trow’s Directory. The orders of Free Masonry and Odd- Fellows remain for special notice. Free Masonry.— The Masonic Temple at Sixth Av. and 23d St. is the headquarters of the Grand Lodge of New York State. It is a lofty granite building, and contains the offices of the Grand Secretary and other grand dignitaries of the Blue lodges. On the right is the large hall of the Grand Lodge of the State, which meets annually in June. The remainder of the year the room is available for assemblies, lectures, preaching, etc. Scattered through the corridors on the upper floors will be noticed cases of Masonic curiosities, such as charters, pat- ents, aprons, scarves, jewels, swords, trowels, etc., of historical value. These, and the portraits and busts of Grand Masters, form a part of the museum attached to the Grand Lodge library. This notable collection of Masonic literature is open to all visitors between 3.30 and 10.30 p. m. The lodge-rooms, Royal Arch chapters and asylums of Knights Templar on the upper floors, where the subordinate bodies meet, are open to the public and should be inspected. The most striking are the Chapter room, a fac-simile of an Egyptian tomb or temple, and the Commandery room or asylum on the top floor, whichCLUBS AND SOCIETIES. 198 represents the choir of a Gothic cathedral. The Grand Council of Royal and Select Masters meets annually there on the first Tuesday of September, it and the Grand Lodge being the only Grand bodies which assemble in this city regularly every year. The German Masons have a building of their own, overlooking Stuyvesant Sq. The high-grade or Scottish Rite Masons, who control the fourth to the thirty-third degrees, are divided into different organizations. The Supreme Grand Council of the Northern Jurisdiction meets at Scottish Rite Hall. Odd-Fellows.— There are over ioo lodges of the Independent Order of Odd-Fellows in New York City, and the headquarters of these is Odd-Fellows’ Hall, at the southeast corner of Grand and Center Sts. Scientific and Learned Societies. New York has many societies and clubs devoted to scientific, med- ical, and other learned investigations. The widest interest attaches to the New York Historical Society at the corner of Second Av. and E. nth St. (See Libraries and Art.) Monthly meetings are held during the cool months. The object of this society (founded 1804) is to investigate matters of local history and preserve records and relics illustrating it. Besides the library of 70,000 volumes, the building contains the interesting N’vc’v a marbles, presented by James Lenox, and the Abbot collec- tion of Egyptian antiquities, consisting of some 1,200 objects. “ The gallery of art is upon the fourth floor, and, excepting the Metro- politan Museum of Art, comprises, perhaps, the largest permanent collection in America, at the present time, of valuable sculptures, ancient and modern paintings by renowned masters, and authentic portraits of persons distinguished in history. It contains 800 pictures and 59 pieces of sculpture, and is increasing rapidly.” The American Institute is an old society, which has attained wide notoriety on account of its annual fair, at Third Av. and 63d St. “ These fairs are usually kept open for several weeks in the fall; and, among a vast array of machinery in motion, agricultural implements and manufactured goods, there are always to be seen a sufficient number of curious and beautiful objects.” The Farmers Club, of wide fame, is a section of this society. The Am. Geographical Society is a flourishing institution, with interesting rooms and a large library, at No. 11 W. 29th St., which any one may visit during the day. It has a grand collection of maps194 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. and charts, and many interesting mementos of travel and travelers. Its monthly meetings (first Tuesday of each month from May to November) are held in Chickering Hall, when lectures on geograph- ical subjects are given, which are usually illustrated, and always attract large audiences. Free tickets are distributed by members, or mailed to applicants by the permanent secretary. The Scientific Alliance is a federation of several organizations devoted to natural history, which meet in the Museum of Natural History or at Columbia College. Information may be obtained of Dr. N. L. Britton, Columbia College. The component societies are: Acadejny of Sciences (founded in 1817, as the N. Y. Lyceum of Natural History); Torrey Botanical Club; N. Y. Microscopical Society; Linn e an Society of New York; Am. Mathematical Society; N. Y. Mineralogical Chib; the New York section of the American Chemical Society; N. Y. Entomological Society. All of these meetings are open freely to the public, and a monthly programme is printed and may be obtained at any library or similar place. The annual “ Reception ” in March is an interesting display of the local scientific work of the preceding year. The Academy of Medicine is a corporation of physicians and students, devoted to the advancement of their professional science and interests, and the promotion of the public health. There are sections devoted to a variety of special diseases and departments of the science, and rooms and a library of 20,000 volumes are open daily to the public at 12 W. 31st St. In the same building are the rooms of the Medical Journal Association, which exists to furnish imme- diate access to all current medical literature in the department of medical journals and monographs, while the County Medical Society and several special societies also hold their meetings there. ROCKWOOD’S Photographs of New York City, Bay, Etc. TOURISTS’ SERIES, 8X 10, 25C EACH BROADWAY and 39th ST. (Opp. Met. Opera House) RocKwood presides in the Portrait StudioXI. GREATER NEW YORK. For many years certain enthusiasts have been advocating the inclusion within the name and municipality of New York City of Brooklyn, Staten Island, and an extensive surburban region north- ward and eastward. In 1890, a legislative commission, under the presidency of Andrew H. Green, was appointed to inquire into the expediency of the project, and this commission ascertained and communicated to the State Legislature the views of a large number of residents of the city and the outlying districts concerned. The result was a proposition or plan for an enlargement of the city by consoli- dation with it of the southern part of the towns of Eastchester and Pelham, in Westchester County, carrying the city-line eastward almost to Pelham Manor; this much was accomplished in 1895, and the northern boundary of the city now reaches Yonkers, Mount Ver- non, and New Rochelle. The proposition also included all of Kings County, and as much of Queens County, Long Island, as lies west of a line from Great Neck to Rockaway, embracing Long Island City and its suburbs — Flushing, Jamaica, and the shores of Jamaica Bay — and the whole of Richmond County (Staten Island). This would give an area of nearly 320 square miles, and include a popula- tion of 3,437,202, making New York the second city of the world. This agitation led to the submission of the question to the votes of the people concerned, in the autumn of 1894. The result was affirma- tive, a charter was granted by the State in 1896, and went into effect January r, 1898. The city now consists, therefore, of five boroughs— Manhattan (Island), The Bronx (north of the Harlem), Brooklyn, Queens (external parts of Brooklyn), and Richmond (Staten Island). Brooklyn. Brooklyn, with 1,166,582 inhabitants, according to the census cf i9oo; has increased her territory, and her population, by annexing, 195196 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. in 1894, the whole outlying territory of Kings County, taking in the suburban region southward, heretofore called Gravesend, New Utrecht, etc., and including Coney Island, Brighton, and Manhattan beaches. The beneficence of the change was at once apparent. Political misrule and speculative chicanery were replaced by the evenly applied government of the city, and an impetus was given to the growth and improvement of all those suburbs, now connected*by ,a network of electric railways. A visit to Brooklyn is among the duties, and will prove itself to the pleasure, of any one who wishes to see New York, for it is to all intents and purposes an integral part of the metropolis. There are four general divisions of the city, popularly, though not officially, called The Heights, South' Brooklyn, The Hill, and the Eastern District, or Williamsburg. Certain principal features should be attended to by the sight-seer, among which are the following: The Heights, Prospect Park, Greenwood and other cemete?c’s, The Navy Yard, Plymouth Church, A Tour of the Elevated Railroads, and the Brooklyn Institute's new Museum at Prospect Park■* The main thoroughfare of Brooklyn is Fulton St., which has a gen- erally eastward course. Fulton and Catherine ferries, and the East River Bridge, land upon it. Half a mile above the bridge stands the Court House, where the celebrated “ Beecher trial” took place; the Hall of Records, next to it; the Municipal Building (containing the departmental offices of the local government), and, prominently in front of all, the City Hall. These buildings are costly and impos- ing, and in front of them stands Ward’s bronze statue of Henry Ward Beecher, commemorating him not only as the great preacher, but as the anti-slavery champion and philanthropist. Near this point are grouped many large business structures, office buildings, banks, theaters, newspapers, etc.; and the principal shops line Fulton St. for half a dozen blocks above, while Washington St., two blocks south, near the extended bridge terminus, contains the costly new Federal Building, containing the Post Office, U. S. Courts, etc., the lofty Eagle Building, and the Clarendon Hotel. The principal theaters are: Amphion, Bedford Av., opposite S. Ninth St.; Acade?ny of Music, Montague St., near City Hall; Colum- bia, Washington and Tillary Sts.; Grand Opera House, Elm PL, near Fulton St.; Star, Jay St., near Fulton; Mont auk, 587 Fulton St.; Park, Fulton, opposite City Hall; Bijou, Smith and Livingston Sts.; Criterion, Fulton St., near Grand Av.; Hyde &*- Behman's, Adams St,, near Myrtle Av.; Lee Avenue Academy, Lee near Divi-GREATER NEW YORK. 197 sion Av.; Novelty, Driggs Av., near S. 4th St., E. D.; Gayety, Broadway and Throop St., E. D.; Empire, Broadway and S. Sixth St., E. D. If now the visitor will walk down Montague St. toward the river, he will soon find himself in that part of Brooklyn called The Heights.—Here the land comes to the water in a steep bluff nearly a hundred feet high at the foot of Montague St., where the residences of many of the oldest and most prominent Brooklyn fami- lies stand on what is known as Columbia Heights, overlooking from their windows a grand panorama of the harbor, the lower part of East River, and the Battery and Wall St. regions of New York City. Along the base of the bluffs are lines of wharves and spacious ware- houses, where ships are moored and foreign commerce comes and goes; and there is only room for a narrow street with only ware- houses, mostly bonded, those on the land side being built in excava- tions under the back gardens of the dwellings on Columbia Heights; but the highland' above is covered with stately homes, hotels, churches, clubs, and institutions of learning. The term “ The Heights,” however, is made to reach back as far as the City Hall, and hence includes the public buildings, the Y. M. C. A., the Academy of Music, and several theaters. Next to the capacious Academy of Music, and communicating with it by large doors, is the ornamental structure of the Art Association, and opposite to it the Brooklyn Library. Closely cognate is the purpose of the Long Island Histor- ical Society, which possesses a large and handsome edifice, with terra cotta and stone trimmings, at the corner of Clinton and Pierre- pont Sts., a library of over 80,000 volumes and pamphlets, and a museum of historical and curious objects. Clinton St. was for many years the Fifth Avenue of Brooklyn, and no part of the city is more fashionable than the blocks along Montague, Pierrepont, Remsen, and some other streets leading from Clinton to the river-bluff There is not the shade and picturesque beauty here, however, which belong to some other districts, that “ on the hill,” for example. Here on The Heights are the three first-class hotels of Brooklyn, the Mansion House, the Pierrepont House, and the new and lofty St. George Hotel, and here have lately been erected some tall and elegant apartment houses, the principal ones being the Arlington, Berkeley Grosvenor, Montague, Columbia, West End, Roebling, and Mar- geret, the latter a massive pile of ten stories, overlooking the Bay- Here, too, are the leading clubs — the Brooklyn, Hamilton, Excel- sior, and Crescent Athletic Club, just reinforced by the Jefferson, a198 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY new Democratic club — while on “ The Hill” the new Republican Union League Club, the Lincoln, and the Montauk have been added, with fine houses, to the older Oxford. It was the number of very fine houses of worship, not to speak of many smaller ones, in this conspicuous part of town, which gave to Brooklyn the name “ City of Churches.” Plymouth Church, made famous by Henry Ward Beecher, was until 1899 presided over by Dr. Lyman Abbot; the present pastor is Dr. N. D. Hillis. Plymouth Church is in Orange St., between Hicks and Henry. It is within easy walking distance of either Fulton Ferry or the Bridge, and “ anybody can direct you.” The edifice is merely a great brick “barn,” and has no ornamentation within inconsistent with its out- ward simplicity. It was built in 1847, and its pulpit was occupied 40 years by Mr. Beecher, until his death in 1887. Its most prominent members dwell near by, but a large part of the regular congregation gathers from remote quarters of the city, while a throng of strangers from all parts of the country is seen within its doors each Sun- day. Mr. Beecher lived and died not far away, at No. 124 Hicks St., corner of Clark. Another famous Congregational church on The Heights is Dr. Richard S. Storrs’s Church of the Pilgrims, at the corner of Henry and Remsen Sts. Next to the Historical Society’s building is Holy Trinity, the leading Episcopal church of Brooklyn, under the pastorate of the Rev. Dr. C. H. Hall; while St. Ann’s (Dr. Alsop’s) is only a block or two distant. Prospect Park.— This noble park, which lies upon the high ground in the rear of the city, overlooking the populous wards of South Brooklyn and the New York harbor on one side, and the Atlantic shore toward Coney Island on the other, is nearly as large as Central Park, and is by many people considered more enjoyable, if not more beautiful. It is reached by the following Trolley lines: From Fulton Ferry or the Bridge entrance, Flatbush Av. line (the most direct); Adams and Boerum Place line, and Franklin Av. line; from Hamilton (south) Ferry, the Hamilton Av. and Prospect Park line; and from Broadway (Williamsburg) Ferry, the Nostrand Av. line. The distance is about 2]/2 miles more or less, from any of the ferries, but the route from Fulton Ferry or the Bridge is the most interesting. None of the elevated railroads go very near the park. In connection with this park, a series N boulevards, 200 feet wide, has been designed for distant points. One is to cross East River at Blackwell’s Island, and connect with the Central Park or the Eastern Boulevard. The picturesque water-tower near the plaza overlooks the, whole region.THE LAKE, PROSPECT PARK, BROOKLYN--This drive is a part of the ordinary route to Coney Island.200 BANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The Park Plaza is a large paved space at the principal entrance of Prospect Park, where Flatbush Av., the Eastern Boulevard, and several other streets converge. Ornamental stone kiosks, and four great granite pillars, ultimately to support statues, mark the entrance to the drive. The center of the Plaza is marked by a memorial arch to the soldiers and sailors of the Civil War, which was erected in 1892, and is not so good in design as the Washington Arch. It contains some bad half-reliefs upon its interior faces, and is surmounted by a colossal bronze group by Frederick MacMonnies, representing the chariot of victory, led by heralds of peace. It faces the park, and should be seen from that side before being judged of, its rear view, first presented to our approaching from the city, being somewhat ludicrous. The arch is hollow, and stairways open to the public (entrance free) permit one to ascend to the top and get a close view of this work of art, which gains upon nearer acquaintance. It was erected during the summer of 1898. At a little distance is an electric fountain, illuminated during the summer at frequent intervals. Just within the park entrance stands a most excellent portrait-statue, also by MacMonnies, of J. S. Stranahan, who was called, at the time of his death, in 1897, Brooklyn’s foremost citizen, and who had been of more service than any other in establishing this and the other parks of the city. Prospect Park is a worthy rival of Central Park in attractiveness. It is wilder, more diversified, and freer to the public, although there are portions of the highest cultivation. It contains, among its ornaments, a statue to John Howard Payne, author of “ Home, Sweet Home,” and a bronze tablet noting the site (Battle Pass) of a critical part of the Battle of Long Island, which took place on these hills. The drives are exceedingly well arranged and delightful, and the lake is really a large body of water, upon which there are numerous boats; but the great advantage of Prospect Park is, that one may run about on the grass almost everywhere, or wander through the thickets at will. There is a winding lake with boats, a shady ramble, etc. From Lookout Hill, a magnificent view is to be gained, reaching from the Atlantic horizon to the Palisades and the Orange Hills; and on certain lawns, especially on Saturday afternoons, hundreds of brightly appareled young people may be seen playing ten- nis, or croquet, or practicing at archery, or otherwise actively amusing themselves, while thousands of others lounge upon the grassy slopes.GREATER NEW YORK. 201 Museum of the Brooklyn Institute.—This is the foundation of a museum of natural history and ethnology, which is housed in the building an eighth of a mile east of the Park Plaza, beyond the beautiful water tower. The collections are open free to the public from Wednesday to Saturday, but 25 cents admission fee is charged on Monday and Tuesday. These collections are the property of the Brooklyn Institute, and consist of a large amount of material illustrating all departments of zoology, which are displayed in suit- able cases, and are well worth seeing. The display of local birds and insects is especially good. A considerable amount of geological, mineralogical, and ethnological material has been gathered and arranged, and the beginning of an art gallery has been made, which already numbers several interesting pictures. The Brooklyn Institute is one of the most prominent social and intellectual influences in the city, being practically a system of university extension work. It originated in 1823, as an apprentices’ library movement, with lectures, etc., and in 1843 its scope was enlarged, but not much was done for the public until 1887, when it was reorganized, its membership and scope vastly increased, and it began a career of extensive usefulness. All the scientific and literary societies of the city joined with it, as sections, and others were organized, until now circles and classes for study and social societies exist under its organization in almost every line of work one can think of; and the public meetings and lectures before the sections or before the whole body of members are so numerous that three or four often occur on the same evening. The present build- ing is only the beginning of what is intended to be a vast and mag- nificent seat of popular learning. The legislature and the city have assisted the institute by large appropriations, and endowments are accumulating, so that additions will rapidly be made, and the plans of McKim, Mead & White will a few years hence be materialized into a building which will be one of the largest and handsomest educational institutions in the metropolis. Greenwood Cemetery. — This famous city of the dead covers a square mile of the highlands that lie back of South Brooklyn and overlook New York Harbor. It is 2yz miles from the bridge, and is reached most directly by the Fifth Av. line of the Brooklyn El. Ry., which has a station at its principal (the northern) entrance. Carriages will be found at the entrance, which the tour of th.)202 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. cemetery, and the driver explains what are generally regarded as the most interesting things as he goes along. The charge for the whole ride is 25 cents. This cemetery was opened in 1842, and about 250,000 burials have been made since that time, including the most distin- guished citizens of New York and Brooklyn who have passed away during the last half-century. The control is not vested in a private corporation, but in a board of public trustees, who now have at its disposal, for its maintenance, a fund approaching $1,000,000. These large resources, and the wealth of many of the families represented upon the rolls of its dead, have permitted a vast expenditure in beautifying both the public and private parts; and there is no bury- ing ground in the country which compares with Greenwood for the cost and elaborateness of its mortuary monuments or the care taken of it as a whole. The stone-bedded, tile-drained roads alone measure 25 miles in length. The northern is the principal one of the several entrances, and its grand Gothic gateway of brown stone, elaborately carved, holds the offices of the administration and a visitors’ room. Waiting rooms will also be found at the other entrances, each of which is furnished with toilet rooms, etc.; and near the center of the cemetery — which covers almost a square mile (474 acres) — is “The Shelter House ” (at the intersection of Locust and Southwood A vs.), designed for the shelter of visitors who chance to be remote from the various entrances and need the conveniences which it affords. From Plateau Hill, and from many other points, far-reaching and beautiful views of the har- bor, the Jersey shore, and New York and Brooklyn cities may be obtained, and a walk of half a mile from the eastern entrance will take one to Prospect Park. Among the thousands of mortuary monuments, some are worthy of special note. Among them are: The monument and bronze bust to Horace Greeley, on Locust Hill, near Oak Av., which was erected by the printers of the country. The triangular block covering the remains of Prof. S. F. B. Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph; this stands on Highwood Hill, is surrounded by many costly monuments, and overlooks the Clinton monument. The Soldiers’ Monument, which is tall and costly, but lacks impressiveness; it stands on the plateau of Battle Hill, whence a broad view is to be gained. The Theater Fire Monument, opposite the main entrance, under- neath which, in a common grave, rest the unrecognized and unclaimedGREATER NEW YORK. 208 bodies of those who perished in the burning of the Brooklyn Theater, in December, 1876, when over 300 people lost their lives. The Firemen’s Monument, surmounted by the figure of a fireman holding a child in his arms. It was erected by the old volunteer fire department of New York City, whose chief engineer, Harry Howard, has placed elsewhere in the grounds a statue in memory of his foster mother, showing her as adopting him when saved from a burning building. Many of the monuments take the form of Greek or Gothic memo- rial chapels, one of the most conspicuous and beautiful of which is that to Miss Mary M. Dauser, a philanthropic woman, at the inter- section of Fir and Vine Avs. Another temple worth special attention is that of A. S. Scribner, at Cypress and Vine Avs., which was made in Italy and contains the figure of Hope. The monument to commemorate John Matthews, at the south- westerly end of Valley Water, is in the form of a richly carved canopy and spire above a sculptured sarcophagus, upon the top of which lies a full-length marble figure of the dead man. On the tablet under the canopy is a veiled female figure seated in a chair and typifying grief. The artist was Carl Muller, and the cost $30,000. The Pilot’s Monument, erected by the pilots of New York Harbor to a hero among them; and the “Sea Captain’s Statue” (to Capt. John Correja, holding the actual sextant he was accustomed to use) . will interest those fond of the sea, Other fine and costly carvings in Italian marble are seen in the monument to the Brown Brothers, the New York bankers, in the emblematic group standing in the lot of the elder James Gordon Bennett, founder of the New York Herald, and in the famous Char- lotte Canda monument, at Fern and Greenbough Avs. The colossal bronze statue of Governor De Witt Clinton, in Baywood Dell, should not be missed by the visitor to Greenwood, who will come away feel- ing that perhaps it is as satisfactory as anything of the more pre- tentious sort in the whole cemetery. The Grant Statue at Grant Square, where Bergen St. crosses Bed- ford Av., is worth the attention of tourists. It stands in front of the splendid house of the Union League Club, by which it was presented to the city, and in one of the most interesting neighborhoods on “the Hill.” It is the work of Partridge, is of heroic size, in bronze, and represents Gen. Ulysses S. Grant on his favorite horse in campaign dress, as he appeared at the Battle of the Wilderness. Very im- posing ceremonies attended its unveiling in April, 1895, and it has given satisfaction to the critics as well as the citizens. The Navy Yard. — Tourists from the interior of the country are sure to be desirous of inspecting the U. S. Navy Yard in Brooklyn. It is on the Wallabout — a basin or indentation from the East River, 15204 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. where in Revolutionary days was moored the dreadful Jersey, worst of the prison hulks. It is at the foot of York St., and may be reached from all parts of Brooklyn by electric cars, two lines crossing the bridge to Manhattan. This is the foremost naval station in the country, and its brick wall embraces a space of 45 acres in the yard proper, while 100 more acres closely adjacent belong to the establishment. The space within the walls is largely occupied by huge machine-shops, storehouses, and the offices of the superintendents of various branches of the service. The United States Naval Lyceum, founded by officers of the navy in 1833, is here ; it has a fine library, and a large collection of histor- ical curiosities, together with valuable geological and mineralogical cabinets. Several trophies of the prowess of the navy in the earlier of the country’s wars, in the shape of captured guns and mortars, are displayed in a little park outside near the headquarters office. The “ quarters” of the officers of the Yard form an interesting line of old-fashioned residences on high ground along the south side of the premises; and the large, pillared structure seen in the distance, as one looks eastward, is the U. S. Marine Hospital, where 500 patients can be taken care of. One important shop was burned in 1899. The Navy Yard consists two portions, separated by the deep bay of “the basin,” or Wallabout, into which the dry-docks open. The peninsular part outside of the basin is called the Cob Dock and forms an extensive park-like space, where musters and drills of sailors, marines, or recruits may be witnessed. The great yellow hulk, housed in, permanently moored on the outer margin of the Cob Dock is the old frigate Vermont, forming a “receiving ship,” •that is a recruiting station, furnishing depot, and home for recruits and sailors while prepairing for or awaiting assignment to service. Ships in commission often lie at the wharves of the Cob Dock, to which a small ferry boat runs from the mainland of the Yard, but usually some sort of special permission must be obtained in order to cross in it to the Cob Dock and visit the Ver?nont or other naval ships there.DWithin the basin often lie many naval ships, transports, torpedo boats, etc., in or out of commission. These are usually accessible to visitors in the afternoon; but visitors are advised to make arrangements beforehand, if possible, with some officer of the Yard or of the ship they wish to inspect. It will smooth the way.CHURCH AND LIBRARY, SAILOR’S SNUG HARBOR-West New Brighton, Staten Island.m HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The Graving or Dry-docks on the basin front are of the greatest interest. Their dimensions are as follows: No. i (wood) length, 362 feet over all, 331 feet on the floor; breadth across top, 66 feet; draught, 25 feet. No. 2 (granite) length over all, 491 feet; on floor, 450 feet; breadth across top, 85 feet, breadth of entrance floor, 52 feet; draught, 25^ feet. No. 3 (granite) length over all, 657 feet; on floor, 564 feet; breadth across top, 70 feet; on entrance floor, 64 feet; draught, 29 feet. (From figures furnished by Captain of the Yard, Dec. 14, 1898, omitting fractions.) The huge steam pumps belong- ing to these docks can empty them of water in a few hours. In order to handle the vast pieces of plate-armor, machinery, gun-car- riages, and guns themselves required to be moved to and from modern ships, the Yard possesses a floating crane, which .is con- spicuous and interesting, as it will lift and swing to any point within its reach a weight of 75 tons ; but a new ioo-ton crane is now being erected to supplement and exceed the capability of this mighty engine. About 2,000 men are ordinarily employed at this Navy Yard. Staten Island. The description already given (see Harbor) of the shores of Staten Island forestalls the need of any extended remarks here. The ferry from New York lands at St. George, at the northern extremity of the island. This is the terminus of the Baltimore & Ohio’s branch line which crosses from Elizabeth, N. J., by a splendid bridge, but thus far is used exclusively as a freight-carrying route, and it is the cen- tral station of the Staten Island Rapid Transit Railroad, which reaches all the shore villages of importance. Staten Island is hilly and contains many attractive spots and much excellent farming land. The views of the harbor and harbor- shores gained from its northern highlands are exceedingly fine, while the most charming and artistic river scenery is to be had along Arthur .Kill and the sound separating the island from New Jersey. Quaint old ports are scattered along the southern shore, and the odd little villages throughout the interior, as countrified as if they were away in the woods of Cattaraugus. But interspersed everywhere are the modern and luxurious country residences of wealthy New Yorkers, who go back and forth daily. This interior is traversed, only by wagon roads, Richmond, the judicial seat of the island, (when it was Richmond County), being itself away from the railroad, but accessible by trolley cars from St. George. Sailor’s Snug Harbor.— The most interesting and notable thing on the north shore of the island is this asylum for aged and infirm sea-GREATER NEW YORK. 207 men, half a mile beyond New Brighton. This benefice is the result' of a bequest made at the beginning of last century by Capt. Richard Randall, then a prominent member of the Marine Society of New York. This bequest consisted mainly of his farm, whose southern boundary was the line of the present Astor Place, and which yielded to the trustees about $40,000. This has been so carefully managed that the property of the Harbor now approaches $18,000,000 in value, and the income suffices to care for 1,000 beneficiaries. Its stately and complete buildings occupy a park and attached farming lands amounting together to 185 acres. About 750 pensioners are at pres- ent on the rolls, all of whom have seen a certain amount of actual service as sailormen. The institution is open to visitors at all suit- able hours, and is well worth inspection, especially in summer, when the grounds and the water-views they afford are admirable. A mort- uary monument covering the bones of the founder stands near the main entrance, and in another part of the park is a bronze statue of Randall, by Augusta St. Gaudens, which is one of the most satisfac- tory pieces of sculpture in the neighborhood of New York. The visitor should take pains to see, within the buildings, the workshops, where scores of cheerful old mariners sit in the sunshine, smoke their pipes and work at plaiting baskets, mats, and other articles of straw, netting hammocks, fishnets, tidies, etc., and rigging toy models of painfully accurate schooners, brigs, and full-rigged ships. These articles are sold by them, and the more able and industrious make a considerable income in this way. The Sailor’s Snug Harbor is as sunny and cheerful a refuge as can be found in the Union. Prohibition Park (Westerleigh) reached by cars from St. George or Port Richmond, is an exclusive community of persons primarily interested in the prohibition of intoxicating liquors as a beverage. The leader of the enterprise is Dr. I. K. Funk, of Funk & Wagnalls. The park is now the home of many men of wealth and cultivation, who are making a beautiful village there. A feature is the great auditorium in which a summer programme of lectures, exhibitions, conventions, and meetings is in progress from June to October, attracting a large number of visitors interested in various “ causes.” The South Side of the island has stations for Quarantine (Staple- ton), Fort Wadsworth (one and a half miles from the railroad), and South Beach, a summer beach-resort (also reached by a steamboat line from the Battery), which is a small imitation of Coney Island,208 BANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. with various cheap restaurants and amusement places, and plentiful “ beer and skittles/’ Midland Beach is a newer, far more select, and really pleasant place, a mile beyond and reached by an interesting electric-car route. Trolley Lines and Ferries.—Electric car lines have spread greatly here, of late, the rivalry of two companies now making all the north- ern parts of the island accessible by cars from St. George, which reach southward to Fort Wadsworth, South Beach, Midland Beach, the new shore-resort, and Richmond. Inland, cars run along pleasant country roads, such as the Richmond turnpike. Other lines skirt the northern terrace, and connect by ferry at Port Richmond with Bergen Point and trolley lines to Jersey City. The same lines continue along the north shore to Howland Hook, where a new ferry takes passengers across to Elizabethport, whence they can reach any part of suburban New Jersey by electric cars. A ferry is now run between Tompkinsville and South Brooklyn. Dressfl T or jmi Comfort f ? No fear of ripping so travelers wear President Suspenders 50c $1.00 any store anywhere or by mail postpaid The C. A. Edgarton Mfg. Co., Box 404, Shirley, Mass.XII. SEASIDE AND SUBURBAN RESORTS. One chapter can hardly contain more than a mere suggestion as to the accessibility and distinctive characteristics of the seashore resorts near New York. These fall into two classes, namely: the coast of Long Island and the coast of New Jersey. The principal starting place in New York for steamboats to the seaside is at South Ferry (the Battery); and in Brooklyn from the foot of Fulton St. The times of departure and rates of fare are fully advertised daily Long Island Coast—Coney Island and Rockaway. The ocean beaches at the western extremity of Long Island are comprehended under the general designations “Coney Island” and “ Rockaway.” Important distinctions between the separate parts of each of these seaside resorts exist, however, and should be noted. A very pleasant nearby resort is Bergen Beach on Jamaica Bay, reached by one of the most delightful trolley rides out of Brooklyn ; it con- tains a hotel built in 1652. Coney Island proper, including West Brighton, is the western- most, oldest, most crowded and democratic part of this whole series of beaches. Here “ there is a motley crowd of hotels, big and little, concert stands, beer-gardens, variety shows, skating rinks, wooden toboggan-slides, shooting-galleries, bathing-houses, merry-go-rounds, inclined railways, museums, aquariums, brass-bands, pop-corn and hot-sausage venders in fact, everything that can be thought of for amusement and penny-catching. Out from the beach extend two long iron piers, with bathing-houses beneath them and restaurants, etc., at the end ; and here (and here alone) is where the steamboats from New York land their passengers. The bathing arrangements here are good. West Brighton is thronged with people of every kind from noon till midnight, and most of all on Sundays; but there are certainly more plebeians than patricians. Brighton.—Half a mile east of West Brighton is Brighton, the cm)210 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. favorite beach for Brooklyn people. Here is a huge hotel, which has been repeatedly moved back from the shore, out of the way of the waves ; and the beautiful grounds have more than once been ruined by the devastation of gale and salt spray. The piazzas are so broad that 2,000 persons may sit down at once at the tables set in them, and still leave ample space for promenading; and 20,000 meals may be given in a single day. The prices are not excessive, though some- what in advance of average rates in the city. In front of this hotel is a band-stand, canopied by a huge shell-shaped sounding-board, where an orchestra gives concerts twice a day. The bathing-houses are of great size and conveniently arranged, but none of them ob- structs the seaward outlook. An excellent vaudeville theater is the only amusement outside the hotel. Reached by elevated cars from Brooklyn Bridge, and trolley cars from Coney Island. Manhattan Beach.—This resort, next east of Brighton Beach, is the favorite place for New Yorkers of the well-to-do class, and un- doubtedly the spot to which the visitor will oftenest return. The Manhattan grounds are occupied by the structures and grounds about two vast hotels — the “ Manhattan ” and the “ Oriental.” The former is at the terminus from the railroad to New York and Brooklyn, and at the western end of the beach, nearest Brighton. The beach in front is protected by a piled breakwater which supports a planked walk, and a broad space of asphalted walks, lawns and flower-beds is arranged, with a great number of park benches. Here one may stroll or sit at ease, with the ocean on one hand and the gay bustle of the hotel piazzas on the other. Immediately in front of the hotel is a sort of out-door theater shed, in which Sousa’s band, sitting inside a vast concavity which acts as a sounding-board, discourses music afternoons and evenings. A few rods down the beach are the bathing- houses, which contain no less than 2,700 rooms and all possible con- veniences. Half a mile eastward, and connected with the Manhattan by a broad walk and series of lawns, is the great Oriental Hotel, with its own esplanade and bathing establishment. Steam and trolley cars. Rockaway.—The next beach east of Coney Island, from which it is separated by the outlet of Jamaica Bay, is Rockaway. This is one ol the oldest seaside resorts on the Long Island shore, and may be reached either by the Long Island R. R., by Brooklyn trolley cars, or by steamboat. The latter route carries by far the greater number of excursionists. Rockaway has lost the elegance and prestige which belonged to it a quarter of g, century ago, before Brighton and Mg,n-SEASIDE AND SUBURBAN RESORTS. 211 hattan were constructed, and the place is now the resort of those who need or prefer to take their amusement cheaply, and are not too particular as to fashionable tone. The general aspect at all four landings is much like that at the West End of Coney Island. Coast of New Jersey. The principal seaside resorts upon the coast of New Jersey are : The Highlands, Seabright, Long Branch, Asbury Park, Ocean Grove, and Sea Girt. These are accessible by railroad, but the pleasanter way is to go by the steamboats of the Central R. R. of New Jersey, from the foot of Rector St. to Atlantic Highlands, and thence on by rail. This is known as the Sandy Hook route. Atlantic Highlands is a village with several hotels at the mouth of Shrewsbury River. There is much of picturesque and historic inter- est in the neighborhood. Long Branch was a favorite resort for summer visitors to the sea- side (particularly those from Philadelphia) a century ago. “The Long Branch of to-day . . . may be described in one sentence: It is the only resort on the coast which supports a synagogue; the ‘ tiger ’ has two superbly appointed jungles; it is ‘ fashionable ’ in the sense in which the word is used by those who fondly imagine that lavish display of wealth is evidence of high social position. It may be judged from the foregoing that Long Branch is not a place whither a circumspect parent would take his family for a quiet sum- mer by the sea; but for those who like to be in the whirl of a ‘ fash- ionable ’ watering-place it is without a rival.” But those who would not care to live at Long Branch may find interest enough to tempt them to one or more day’s stay there. A line of steamers, supplemented by many irregular excursions, lands its passengers at the Iron Pier, which extends 800 ft. out to deep water, at a height of 20 ft. above the tide. The base of this pier rests upon Ocean Avenue, a part of the “beach drive” which runs from Sandy Hook to Barnegat Bay. Ocean Avenue toward even- ing is probably the liveliest thoroughfare in the United States. Plere one can see almost every kind of vehicle — stages crowded with excursionists, buggies drawn by swift roadsters, tandems, four-in- hands, T-carts, etc., many of them perfectly appointed, and each interesting in its own way, as representing one of the many types of people to be found at this resort. Underneath the Iron Pier is an extensive public bathing beach,212 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. with all suitable facilities, where at the bathing hour (announced near full tide by the hoisting of a white flag on the hotels) hundreds and sometimes thousands of persons may be seen in the surf. Trolley cars run at frequent intervals from Pleasure Bay, north of Long Branch, south through the coast villages to Shark River(Bel Mar). Many small places in the neighborhood of Long Branch require no special mention, permitting us to speak next of Asbury Park. —This modern and popular resort is really an out- growth of Ocean Grove. Its summer population is said to now reach 60,000, and it has become a beautiful village, with streets hard, well drained, and properly sewered; electric street-cars, good sidewalks, banks, newspapers, an opera-house, a library and lecture hall, elec- tric lights, public artesian water, and a plank walk a mile long on the sea-beach, connecting with the esplanade of Ocean Grove, have arisen where twenty years ago was little or nothing. The people here are not of the pretentious wealth and social prom- inence of those at Monmouth Beach and Seabright, nor are there many representatives of the pushing and sometimes vulgar ‘ ‘ aristoc- racy” of Long Branch; but, on the other hand, it is a more rational, well-to-do, and livelier population than that which frequents the academic walks of Ocean Grove, and though it can not drink fiery spirits is not averse to milder stimulants, and to dance, flirt, and otherwise make as merry as the gayest. There are said to be 200 hotels and boarding-houses, an increasing number of which remain open during the winter, when 5,000 people continue to inhabit the village and enjoy a comparatively mild and equable climate. The hotels at Asbury Park are the Coleman ($4), West End ($3.50), Atalanta, Ocean, Plaza, Brunswick, Columbia, and Commercial ($2 to $3), and a large number of others at less rates per day. Sepai ated from Asbury Park only by the long and narrow Wesley Lake, is Ocean Grove, a seaside town under the control of an association of Methodist clergymen, which owes its origin (1868) to the need of larger space and better accommodations for the annual summer camp- meetings formerly held at Vineland, N. J. The object in view of its founders was to establish a school and nursery of religious influence, where people would be attracted to remain for rest and out-door recreation. To this end, everything has been done to further the exclusiveness, not only, but the devotional spirit of the place. The streets are named after localities prominent in sacred history or after the fathers of the Methodist Church, and the largest buildings in the place are the Auditorium, the Tabernacle, intended mainly for “ holi-SEASIDE ADD SUBURBAN RESORTS. 213 ness” meetings, the Young People’s Temple, and a topographical model of modern Jerusalem, of real size. The new Auditorium, built in 1893, is a vast oval hall, spanned by a roof of a single arch, which will seat nearly 10,000 people. It is magnificently lighted by electricity, is dignified in its simplicity, and is one of the largest, and probably the most satisfactory, meeting-hall in the country and per- haps in the world. Its cost, approaching $100,000, was defrayed wholly by voluntary subscriptions ; and there is rarely any charge for admission ; but a collection is taken up at nearly every meeting. Innumerable association meetings and religious conventions or special services are held, in addition to the daily stated meetings for preaching, prayer or praise, during the two midsummer months, and the effort at religious revival is incessant. The fanatical outward manifestation which accompanied this spirit, and the ascetic rules of the early days, have been much relaxed of late years ; and now one sees little outward difference between Asbury Park and Ocean Grove, except the great number of quaint and pretty canvas cottages which form whole streets in the latter town. The hotels are good, many of the houses costly and elegant, and surrounded by beautiful grounds; the town is well sewered and watered, has gas and electric lights, and the religious intent of the community is no longer made burdensome to a resident who may not care to participate in it as fully as his neighbor. Trolley cars run south as far as Bel Mar. Westchester County. The hills and dales of Westchester County, which joins New York County and City on the north, are densely populated, and many pretty towns and villages may be counted. Yonkers is on the Hudson, and joins the northern limits of New York. It has 47,931 citizens, a great part of whom come regularly to business in the metropolis. Next eastward, covering the central hills, is ML Vernon, a scattered town with stations on both the Hudson River and New Haven railroads, and many beautiful drives. Still farther east is historic Westchester. Eastchester and Pelham are hamlets at the head of inlets from Long Island Sound, and are traversed by the Harlem Branch of the New Haven R. R. New Rochelle, 17 miles from Grand Central Depot, on the New Haven R. R., is exceedingly pretty and popular with New Yorkers. It was settled in very early times by Huguenots, and preserves many interesting relics of its colonial period. It may be reached by trolley via Mt. Vernon.214 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The New Jersey Shore. Although, in another State, and on the opposite side of the Hudson, the cities fronting upon the western side of the North River are an integral part of the Metropolitan District, since a great number of their inhabitants do business in New York and pass back and forth daily. These are Jersey City, Hoboken, West Hoboken, Gutenberg, and Weehawken. Jersey City.—This great town, which has absorbed several con- tiguous and once separate municipalities, now has 206,433 popular tion, and stretches from the harbor shore opposite the Liberty Statue; to the Hoboken line opposite the foot of Christopher St., New York and it reaches back to the Hackensack River and Meadows. Its, front is low land, a large breadth of which has been reclaimed from, the harbor, inclosing the great Communipaw Basin at the outlet of' the Morris & Essex Canal, in the rear of the terminus of the Central. R. R. of New Jersey. This low frontage, known originally as; Paulus Hook (or Point), offered less inducement to the early settlers, than other equally accessible districts near New Amsterdam, and was doubly exposed to Indian depredations. It was therefore slow to be settled and cultivated ; and the prejudice thus naturally begun, has been unnaturally continued in the minds of New Yorkers ever since. This feeling is intensified by the fact that the traveler on any of the railways that pass through Jersey City sees only the forlornest. streets ; and also by the fact that the town offers no one special attraction to the public gaze. The water-front is for the most part in possession of railway and steamship companies. Behind them are: a great number of factories, some of immense proportions — notably large glass works, crucible works, steel works, zinc works, locomo- tive works, boiler and machine shops, founderies, etc. The lofty piles of the sugar refineries form a conspicuous object near the center of the city, as one crosses from New York. A mile back from the river-front the long rocky ridge of Bergen Heights — a continuation of the Hudson Highlands — extends north and south as an elevated peninsula between New York and Newark Bays, as far as the pretty village of Bergen Point; and furnishes a fine building site for resi- dences, where the windows overlook the panorama of the whole har- bor. Upon this hill are many very pleasant streets and some fine churches and schools ; but there is little or nothing in the town to interest the casual sight-seer. Electric trolley-cars run to all partsHANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. 210 of the city and to the neighboring cities, including lines to Newark. All these concentrate in a Union Station at the foot of Montgomery St., the landing place for the ferries from Cortlandt and Desbrosses Sts., New York. The great new station of the Pennsylvania R. R., and Taylor’s, the leading hotel of Jersey City, are at this ferry. Hoboken.—North of Jersey City (Hoboken Ay. is the dividing line) lies the very convenient but unlovely city of Hoboken. Its water- front is made by the wharves of several great transatlantic steamer lines, particularly those sailing to the German ports, and by the station of the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western Railway system, including the Morris & Essex branch, which does such an extensive suburban business throughout “The Oranges.” At this station land the “ Hoboken ” ferries from Barclay and Christopher Sts.; and here start the electric cars of the Elevated Railroad to the hilltop and Hudson County Court House, and of various surface lines. The population of Hoboken (60,000) is very largely German, and is devoted to manufacturing to a considerable extent. It has one dis- tinctly American institution, however, in the Stevens Institutey which occupies a wooded promontory of rocks that juts out into the river conspicuously and is covered by a pretty park. This is a poly- technic and scientific school of high rank, founded by the late Com- modore Stevens, who equipped the “Stevens Battery,” famous in the early part of the Civil War ; and whose “ castle ” overtops the trees of what was formerly his estate. Weehawken is another little city, north of Hoboken and under the hill which here approaches the water more closely than below. It was the scene of Revolutionary operations ; and here, a few years later, Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr fought the duel which cost the former his life. Now it is known principally as the terminus of the New York, West Shore & Buffalo and the Ontario & Western railroads, and is connected with 42d St. and Franklin St., New York, and with Brooklyn, by ferries. On the summit of the lofty bluffs is a scattered German community, and very pleasant strolling places along the wooded cliffs northward, which command a magnificent outlook far down the bay. This locality is reached by electric cars from the ferry, whose cars run out to the old Guttenberg race track, and up to Hudson Heights and Fort Lee. Fort Lee, at the foot of the Palisades of the Hudson, and opposite Washington Heights, is a small village upon ground memorable since216 KANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Revolutionary times, which, for many years has been an excursion and picnic point, but is now of small account. Ferry from West 125th St. Inland Towns of New Jersey. Newark is the largest city in New Jersey, only 9 miles from the City Hall, New York, and separated from Jersey City only by the salt meadows along the Hackensack River. It lies for the most part along the west bank of the Passaic River, and small steamers and sailing craft ascend to the city’s wharves. It has now about 250,000 population, only a small portion of which does business daily in New York, for, notwithstanding its proximity, Newark is self-contained in a greater degree than any other town near the metropolis. The rapid growth of Newark is chiefly owing to its manufactures. These embrace almost every branch of industry, but particularly excel in jewelry, buttons and ornamental novelties, iron fabrics, India rubber goods, leather and leathern articles, drugs, clothing, hats, and in the production of malt liquors. Elizabeth is another manufacturing city, a few miles south of Newark, upon the shore of Newark Bay. It is a very old town ; many of its streets are shaded by fine old trees, and the residence portion contains charmingly old-fashioned mansions, the homes of wealthy families. Foremost among its factories is the enormous establishment of the Singer Sewing Machine Company, which prac- tically supports the waterside suburb called Elizabethport. Rahway is a pretty town of about 8,000 people, five miles south- west of Elizabeth on the Pennsylvania R. R. It is the residence of many men doing business in New York, and is surrounded by orchards and fruit farms. New Brunswick, 12 miles beyond, and 32 miles from New York, is an interesting old place at the head of navigation on the Raritan River, where the Delaware and Raritan Canal begins its overland course to Trenton. There are many large factories there, but its chief interest to strangers lies in Rutger’s College — an old seat of learning under the care of the Dutch Reformed Church, which can be seen from the cars of the Pennsylvania R. R. as they cross the lofty bridge spanning the river and canal. J The Oranges, and the region generally north and west from Newark, is the best known and most favorite district for suburban residences in the immediate neighborhood of the city. It is reached by the Morris and Essex line of the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western R. R., from Hoboken, and the stations are hardly half a mile apart. These are,SEASIDE AND SUE DEBAN EE SORTS. ai i in succession, after leaving Newark, Grove St., East Orange, Brick Church, Orange, Highland Av.y Mountain Station, and South Orange. The last is 14 miles from New York. The whole region, which gradually rises westerly into the Orange Hills, is highly cultivated and thickly set with the homes of New Yorkers. The Central Railroad of New Jersey gives access to one of the most populous and beautiful districts of New Jersey, suburban to the metropolis, which has been compactly described as follows: “The territory in question includes the vast New Jersey coast, with branches leading from it (the coast line of rail) to the nearby interior towns; the delightful suburban or permanent home section between New York and Somerville; the level stretch down through historic old Monmouth County, the most fertile county in New Jersey; Lakewood, the famous winter resort, and the wilderness of pines that stand like dusky sentinels for miles around it, imparting a most delicious, health-giving odor to the air; delightful South Jersey, with its quaint, long-lived people, its creeks, rivers, and bays, its wild-fowl shooting and its everlasting still-water fishing, crabbing, clamming, and oystering, the rich farming and dairy region along the main line through Somerset, Hunterdon, and Warren counties to Phillipsburg; over the wild, mountainous High Bridge Branch through a section of country abounding in pastoral scenes, with shady woods, streams, and valleys in view at all times, with Budd’s Lake, the pride of Morris County, close at hand, and fair Lake Hopatcong, New Jersey’s most beautiful sheet of water, nestling in the hills of Morris and Sussex counties, as though dividing the honor With them, all in plain view of trains approaching the station at Nolan’s Point; and, lastly, the grand scenic region along the Lehigh River from Easton westward, taking in Bethlehem, Allentown, Catasauqua, Mauch Chunk, Glen Onoko, Wilkesbarre, and terminating at the great manufacturing city of Scranton.” Newark is reached by more than forty trains daily, landing pas- sengers in the heart of the city, on Broad Street, near Market Street, by the Central Railroad of New Jersey. The Main Line passes along the shore of New York Bay through a continuous town, Bayonne beginning where Jersey City stops. The stations here are less than a mile apart, and the people are served by no less than fifty-six trains each way, daily, to Elizabeth, and forty each way to small way stations. At Elizabeth, the station is a hand- some nev^' structure in the center of this attractive city. ABeyond Elizabeth a series of lovely and growing towns succeed one another rapidly, tenanted by residents of the best class, who take great pride in maintaining a high degree of beauty, healthfulness, and social comfort in their villages; no suburban route out of New York shows218 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY, more elegant and delightful homes. El Mora and Lorraine are in the edge of Elizabeth, and then, fifteen miles from New York, comes Roselle, a park-like village, having an excellent inn, a Casino Club, and no factories; the historic rural community of Connecticut Farms is close by. The rising town of New Orange lies a short distance northwest. The building up here of a new manufacturing commu- nity is the enterprise of a powerful association which has acquired an immense and favorable site connected with all the neighboring rail- ways by a belt line, and offers fine inducements to an industrial population to make its-home there. Several large and varied indus- tries are already in operation, and others are about to be established, forming the solid nucleus of what promises to become an important factor of local prosperity. Cranford, the next station of importance, is a shady residence town, which has a Country Club, and is growing rapidly in numbers and in favor. At Garwood a flourishing manu- facturing town is making progress. Westfield is an older village of about 4,000 inhabitants, having many attractions, one of which is the handsome Athletic Club’s house, which forms a social head- quarters. The excellence of the roads throughout this level, dry- soiled region, where ’cycling is an unlimited pleasure, is particularly noticeable in this vicinity, and thence to Fanwood, an old-time town on Scotch Plains, which has been made by its wealthy residents into one of the most beautiful “ cottage colonies ” in New Jersey; Glen- side Park, upon the hills three miles away, is another growing center of fashionable suburban life. Netherwood, the next station, adjoins Fanwood, and, like it, is the home of families of wealth and refine- ment. Its powerful waterworks supply a wide area of surrounding villages. Only a mile beyond is the city of Plainfield, having about 20,000 population, and all the improvements of modern municipal life. Every one who knows Plainfield unites in praise of it as a place of residence; and its surroundings, especially toward the mountainous west, are so beautiful that strangers might well visit it for the sake of a day’s excursion. The schools and churches of this town are far-famed, and are the product of the intellectual and refined spirit that has animated the people there since its pre-Revo- lutionary beginning. Great historical interest, connected with the Revolutionary era, belongs to the whole neighborhood, especially about Scotch Plains, accessible from Plainfield by trolley cars.SEASIDE AND SUBURBAN RESORTS. 219 Bound Brook, a fine old town on the Raritan River, which is the home of many New Yorkers as well as of old local families, is the point where the Central Railroad of New Jersey connects with the Reading Railroad, by which the trains of the Royal Blue Line run between New York and Philadelphia. Binderne is a pleasant village just beyond, where the Hotel Finderne is conspicuous; and then the end of the “ Surburban Section ” is reached at Som. ^ville, a fine old country town much in favor with city people, thirty-six miles from New York. To this point the railroad has four tracks; and no less than twenty-four .passenger trains run back and forth daily, while Plainfield is served by thirty-four trains each way.. The Lehigh Valley Railroad serves a suburban region in Northern New Jersey of great beauty and historic interest, where lovely vil- lages are building and coming more and more into notice as resi- dences and summer resorts. This road passes between Newark and Elizabeth, where a new park is in preparation on elevated ground. Say brook is a village close by it. Roselle is in a lovely and especially healthy region, having unusual public advantages in the way of electric lights, gas, artesian water, schools, etc. South Cranford, Piet on, Ashbrook, and Oak Tree are other elevated localities beyond, upon picturesque sites among the hills. Plainfield is touched at South Plainfield, and then comes New Market, close to the Orange Mountains, and surrounded by a very beautiful and healthful region, beyond which many small hill stations are attracting a constant in- crease of suburban residents and visitors. Flemington, Clinton, and other further stations are older towns in the midst of a lovely rural region noted for its peach orchards. This fine railroad then continues westward as a double-tracked line across the Delaware River and Alleghany Mountains to the coal regions of Pennsylvania, and on through Western New York to Niagara Falls, etc. The New York, Lake Erie & Western Railway serves another populous community of suburban cities and villages, which vie with The Oranges in importance as well as in popularity. On the main line, which runs nearly north from Jersey City, are the Rutherfords and Passaic—the latter a factory town of 27,000 people. On the same river, a few miles higher up, and 17 miles from New York, is Paterson, a city of over 105,000 inhabitants. Its extensive iron and silk works and the repair shops of the Erie Railway give it a thriving appearance. The Passaic Falls, on Passaic River, are a feature of this 16220 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. place. The river here has a perpendicular fall of 50 feet and a total descent of 72 feet, affording an immense water-power, which has been improved by a dam and canals. The falls and bordering park are accessible by a line of trolley cars from the railroad station. Northward of Newark, and almost continuous with it, lies the beautiful Montclair district, occupying high ground, whose loftiest points c /erlook the whole Hackensack valley and harbor region. Here dwell a great number of old and wealthy families in estates which time and money together have greatly beautified; and large communities of more humble suburban folk have grown up about them. Still farther out are the various charming villages known as the Pomp tons, and beyond that Greenwood Lake, where the resident population is largely increased by summer residents and visitors. Along the western base of the Bergen Hills, the West Shore R. R. from Weehawken, and several other railways make their way north- ward, passing through many pretty villages where New Yorkers live, and penetrating, in the rear of the Palisades, a district of extreme natural beauty and full of historical relics and associations. No per- son should leave out of his scheme of exploration of the neighborhood of New York such places as Englewood, Hackensack, Cherry HUG Tappan, and others, where happened some of the most exciting incidents of the Revolutionary War, and which are still environed in a rural beauty astonishing when one remembers how near they are to the city. A journey up the West Shore Railroad, stopping at Tappan, where so much historical interest is concentrated in a district of great beauty, and then going on to West Point, to return by steamboat, is an excursion particularly recommended to strangers. It should be added, that throughout all of the region east of the rough hill-country, the smoothest of macadamized roads invite the cyclist. Among the best of these is that which goes north from Hoboken through Englewood, Cresskill, Tappan, and on to Nyack. Other fine roads are the old turnpikes from Newark up the Passaic, out through the Montclairs, westward through The Oranges and over to Morristown, and southward to Elizabeth, Rahway, Plainfield, and farther. Trolley Cars now reach all parts of suburban New Jersey, reach- ing from the ferries of Jersey City, Hoboken, or Weehawken, north to Englewood, Leonia, and Hackensack, west to Passaic, Paterson, and suburbs beyond; to the heights beyond Montclair; to Eagle RockSEASIDE A HD SUE DEB AH RESORTS. 221 and all parts of the Oranges; to Irvington and the southwestern suburbs of Newark; to Elizabeth and the ferry to Staten• Island. These afford the means of many cheap and interesting round-trips, as well as a convenient means, in connection with the steam lines, of reaching any point in that populous and beautiful district.LIST OF REPUTABLE HOTELS IN NEW YORK. Albemarle, Broadway and 24th St.—Eur., $2. Albert-St. Stephen, University PI. and E. nth St.—Eur., $1. Arena, Broadway and 31st St.—Eur., $1. Ashland, Fourth Av. and 23d St.—Am., $3 ; Eur., $1. Astor, Broadway, Barclay, and Vesey Sts.—Eur., $1.50. Bartholdi, Broadway and 23d St.—Eur., $1.50. Belleclaire, Broadway and 77th St.—(Not given.) Belvedere, Fourth Av. and 18th St.—Am., $3 ; Eur., $1. (German.) Beresford, Central Park West and 81st St.—Eur., $2. Bradford, 66 E. nth St.—Am., $1.50; Eur., 50 cents. Brevoort, Fifth Av. and Clinton PI. (Eighth St.)—Eur., $2. Broadway Central, 671 Broadway—Am., $2.50 ; Eur., $1. Buckingha7n, Fifth Av. and 50th St.—Eur., $1.50 to $2.50. Cadillac, Broadway and 43d St.—Eur., $1.50. Continental, Broadway and 20th St.—Eur., $1. Cosmopolitan, Chambers St. and West Broadway—Eur., $1. Devonshire, 30 E. 42d St.—Eur., $1. Earlington, 55 W. 27th St.—Eur., $1.50. Empire, Broadway and 63d St.—Am., $3.50; Eur., $1.50. Endicott, 101 W. 81st St.—Am., $3.50; Eur., $2. Everett, Fourth Av. and 17th St. (Union Square)—Eur., $1.50. Fifth Avenue, Fifth Aw. and 23d St. (Madison Square)—Am., $5. Gilsey, Broadway and 29th St.—Eur., $2. Grand, Broadway and 31st St.—Eur., $1.50. Grand Union, Fourth Av. and 42d St.—Eur., $1. Grenoble, Seventh Av. and 56th St.—(Not given.) Griffou, 19 W. 9th St. (French)—Am., $3; Eur., $1. Hall's, Duane St. and Park Row—Eur., 75 cents. Herald Square, 116 W. 34th St.—Eur., $1. Hamilton, Eighth Av. and 125th St. (Harlem)—Eur., $1 Hoffman, nn Broadway—Eur., $2. Holland, Fifth Av. and 30th St.—Eur., $2. Hungaria, 4 East Union Square—Eur., $1. Imperial, Broadway and 32d St.—Eur., $2. fefferson, 102 E. 15th St.—Am., $2.50; Eur., $1. fudson, 53 Washington.Square—Eur., $1. Kensington, Fifth Av. and 15th St.—Eur., $1. Leggett's, 76 Park Row—Eur., 75 cents. Lincoln, Broadway and 52d St.—Eur., $1. Madison Avenue, Madison Av. and 58th St.—Am., $3; Eur., $1. Majestic, Central Park West and 72dSt.—Am., $4; Eur., $2. 232LIST OF REPUTABLE HOTELS IN NEW YORK. 223 Manhattan, Madison Av. and 42d St.— Eur., $2. Marie Antoinette, Boulevard and 66th St.—Am., $3.50. Marlborough, Broadway and 37th St.— Am., $3.50; Eur., $1.50. Martha Washington, 29 E. 29th St. (Women only.) Metropole, Broadway and 42c! St.— Eur., $1. Miller s, 36 W. 26th St.— Am., $2.50. Mills Hotel No. 1, Bleecker St., cor. Sullivan.— Eur., 20 cents. Mills Hotel No. 2, Rivington and Chrystie Sts.— Eur., 20 cents. Morton House, Broadway and 14th St. (Union Square)—Eur., $1. Mount Morris, 2396 Third Av. (Harlem)—Eur., $1. Murray Hill, Park Av. and 41st St.—Am., $3.50 ; Eur., $1.50. Netherlanot, Fifth Av. and 59th St.—(unannounced, but high). New Amsterdam, Fourth Av. and 21st St.— $1. Normandie, Broadway and 39th St.— Eur., $2. Park Avenue, Fourth Av. and 32d St.— Am., $3.50 ; Eur., $1. Plaza, Fifth Av. and 59th St.— (Not given.) Roland, 59th St., between Madison and Park Avs.—Eur., $1.50. Rossmore, 1459 Broadway—Eur. St. Andrew, Broadway and 72d St.—Eur., $1.50. St. Denis, Broadway and nth St.— Eur., $1. St. George, 49 E. 12th St.— Am., $2.50 ; Eur., $1. St. Marc, 434 Fifth Ay.—Am., $4 ; Eur., $1.50. St. Nicholas, 4 Washington PI.—Am., $2.50 ; Eur., $1. St. Stephen, 52 E. nth St.— Eur., $1. (Joined to the Albert.) San Remo, Central Park West and 75th St.—$4. . Savoy, Fifth Av. and 59th St.-^Am., $4.50 ; Eur., $2. Shermait Square, Boulevard and 71st St.—Am., $5. Sinclair, Broadway and Eighth St.— $1. Smith &McNeil's, 199 Washington St.— 50 cents. Tremont, 4197 Park Av.— (Not given). Trainor s, 1289 Broadway—Eur., $1. (Gentlemen only.) Union Square, 16 East Union Square — Eur., $1. United States, Fulton and Water Sts.— Eur., 75 cents. Vanderbilt, Lexington and 42d St.— Eur., $1. Vendome, Broadway and 41st St.— Eur., $2. Waldorf-Astoria, Fifth Av. and 34th St.— Eur., $3. Wellington, 7th Av. and 55th St.— Eur., $2.50. Westminster, Irving PL.and 16th St.—Eur., $1. Winthrop, 2088 Seventh Av. (Harlem) — Eur., $1.50. Extras.— In all these hotels, of whatever plan, no “ extras” will be found unexpectedly swelling the bill, as so vexatiously happens in Europe.Keep Your Stomach Well Horsford’s Acid Phosphate CURES habitual stomach weakness, improves the appetite and digestion, and removes the cause of headache and wakefulness. It imparts new life and vigor by restoring to the system the needed tonic and nerve food. Insist on having Horsford’s Acid Phosphate. ParR Avenue Hotel ParK (4th) Ave., 32d 33d Sts., New York. ABSOLUTELY FIREPROOF AMERICAN PLAN $3.50, $4.00 and $5.00 per day and upwards EUROPEAN PLAN $1.00 to $4.00 per day and upwards Accessible to all railroads, ferries theaters, and department stores. Two minutes from Grand Central Station. Thirty-third Street and Fourth Avenue Subway Terminal directly in front of the door. REED G BARNETT, ProprietorsINDEX. PAGE ABBEY’S THEATER............... 46 J-*- Abingdon Square............ 60 Academy of Medicine..__________ 194 Academy of Music ______________ 46 Aiguilar Libraries, The ....... 184 Albany Day Line_______________'• 9 Albany, People’s Line (Night)_ 9 Aldine Association_____________ 188 Allan-State Line................ 7 Amberg Theater................. 46 American Fine Art Society.. ... 185 American Geographical Society, The _______________________ 193 American Institute, The........ 193 American Line................... 7 American Surety Company, The.. 100 American Theater............... 46 American Volunteers, The_______ 169 Amusements................. 45, 58 Anchor Line___________________ 8 Antiquities (see Metropolitan Mu- seum of Art). Apprentices’ Library, The ......184 Aquarium, The________________ 137 Architecture (see Metropolitan Mu- seum of Art). Arion, The ................. 188 Army and Navy Club_____________ 188 Art Galleries................. 184 Art Students’ League___________ 186 Arts, The (see Metropolitan Mu- seum of Art). Asbury Park................... 212 Ashbrook .................. 219 Assay Office, The............. 94 Associations for Helping the Poor 177 Astor Library, The ........... 182 Astoria______________________ 130 Astoria Ferry................. 37 Athletics___________________ 56 Athletic Clubs__________________ 56 Atlantic Avenue Ferry___________ 30 Atlantic Highlands____________211 Atlantic Transport Line_______ . 8 Atlas Steamship Company__________ 8 Authors Club...________________ 188 Baggage express_______________ i3 Baggage, Outgoing__________ 14 Baltimore & Ohio(Royal Blue Line) 10 Banks, Financial Institutions_ 90 Baptist Churches.............. 162 Barclay Street Ferry____________ 30 Barge Office, The______________ 136 Barnard Annex, The (for Women) 178 Baseball......................... 57 Ba< tery Park ............... 139 Battery, The................. 135 225 PAGE Baxter Street_______________ 150 Bay, A Trip Down the___________ 134 Bay Ridge.................... 142 Bay Ridge & Coney Island Ferry 30 u Bay,” The (see Baxter Street). Bayonne....................... 217 Bedloe’s Island______________ 140 Bedloe’s Island Ferry___________ 30 Bellevue Hospital... --------- 169 Bergen Point__________________ 146 Berkeley Lyceum________________ 46 Berkeley Oval................. 56 Bible House----------------- 168 Bij ou Theater ............... 47 Blackwell’s Island............. 171 Blackwell’s Island Ferry________ 30 Blackwell’s Island to the Battery _ 130 Boating Clubs_________________-43, 57 Botanical Gardens_______________ 80 Bound Brook___________________. 219 Bowery, The .................. 154 Bowery Theater............... 47 Bowling_________________________ 57 Bowhng Green................. 86 Branch Post Offices_____ ..— 42 Bridgeport (Housatonic Railroad) 9 Bridges---------------------- 33-37 Brighton_______________________ 209 Broad Street (Looking North from Beaver Street)_______________ 91 Broadway to City Hall, A Walk Up 97 Broadway Squad, The............ 149 Broadway Theater.............. 47 Bronx Park..................... 79 Brooklyn..................... 195 Features of, to be seen..... 196 Brooklyn Bridge________________ 33 Building of___________________ 34 Brooklyn Bridge Cars............ 33 Brooklyn Ferries, Various (see map) 30 Brooklyn Heights.............. 197 Brooklyn Institute_____________ 201 Brooklyn Institute Museum..... 202 Brooklyn Navy Yard____________ 204 Brooklyn Street and Elevated Cars 29 Brooklyn Theaters______________ 197 Bryant Park____________________ 22 Buildings, Prominent Business_ 44 Burling Slip .................. 133 PABS__________________________ 13 A-7 Calumet Club_______________ 188 Carnegie Music Hall_____________ 54 Carriage Fares................12,13 Casino________________________ 47 Casino Roof Garden _____________ 51 Castle Garden................ 138 Castle William................ 132226 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. PAGE Catharine Market.............. 134 Catharine Ferry................ 30 Catholic Club___________..____ 188 Catskill (Catskill Mountain R. R.)- 9 Caution to T ravelers.......... 14 Central Avenue________________81, 93 Central Bridge............... 37 Central Broadway----------------- 112 Central New Jersey (Sandy Hook) 9 Central Opera House ........... 47 Central Park ................ 60 Means of Access to.......... 60 Central Railroad of New Jersey _.. to Century Club.................’... 188 Chamber of Commerce____________ 90 Charity Organization Society___171 Chatham Square................. 25 Cherry Hill......._............220 Chicago & Erie Railroad ... --- 10 Chinatown and the Chinese_____ 152 Chinese Restaurants.......... 153 Chinese Theater..............47, 153 Christian Alliance, etc., The.'.. 169 Christopher Street Ferry........ 30 Church Club.________________ 188 Churches and Religious Work____157 Churches in Brooklyn.......... 198 Churches, Protestant.......... 157 Church of the Strangers, The 164 City Club.___________________ 188 City Government Offices_______ 105 City Hall Branch (of Second and 7 Third Avenue Elevated)_______ 28 City Hall, In and around .... 102 City Hall Square.............. 102 City Island 3.______________ 129 “ City of Churches, The ”...... 197 Claremont____________________ 77 Clearing House, The New Bank .. 96 Cleopatra’s Needle............. 70 Clinton______________________ 219 Clubs and Societies ......... 188 Clubs in Brooklyn_____________ 197 Clyde Steamship Company........ 8 Coaches.................... 13 Coastwise Steamship Lines______8, 9 College of the City of New York.. 174 College Point Ferry___________ 37 Colonial Club............... 189 Colonial Park ......._........ 79 Columbia Oval__________________ 56 Columbia University ........... 176 Columbia University Library____177 Columbus Plaza_______________ 6.1 Communipaw Ferry .............. 30 Compagme Generale Transatlan- tique...................... 8 Compania Transatlantica Espanola 8 Concert Halls _________________ 54 Coney Island................ 209 Congregational Churches........ 162 Connecticut Farms...._........ 218 Consolidated Petroleum and Stock Exchange..................... 96 Cooper Union.................. 179 Cooper Union Library. Corlear’s Hook ...... . Cortlandt Street Ferry Costumes_____________ County of New York .. Cranford_____________ Cricket ............. Criminal Courts, The... Criterion Theater.... Cromwell Line________ Cross Town Lines_____ Crot»n Aqueduct, The. Crotona Park......... Cunard Line.......... Custom Flouse, The___ PAGE — 183 .60, 130 — 3° ... 4 6 ___107 ___ 218 — 58 ___ 107 ... 47 ... 8 ... 29 .... 37 --- 80 .... 8 — - 93 TAALY’S THEATER ............... 47 Yr David’s Island_____________ 128 Delaware, Lackawanna & West- ern Railroad_________________ 10 Democratic Club............... 189 Desbrosses Street Ferry....... 30 Detective Bureau, The_________ 149 Deutscher Verein Club......... 189 Dewey Theater ________________ 47 Door of Hope, The. _......... 169 Down-town Association Club.... 189 Dramatics, Amateur___________ 46 Drives____________________ 81 Drive, The (Central Park)_____ 65 Dry-docks__________________ 206 Dutch Reformed Churches_______ 157 U'ASTCHESTER___________________ Yj East River , and Long Island Sound________________________ East River Bridge______________ East River Water-front, A Walk Along the____________________ 'Eden Musee____________________ Educational .Institutions...... Elevated Railways_____________ Elizabeth ..................2x6, Ellis Island.................. Elysian Fields Ferry........... Empire Theater.---------------- Engineers Club_________________ Englewood...................... Episcopalian Churches__________ Equitable Life Building, The... Erie Railroad.................. Esplanade, The (Central Park)__ Exchange, Various ............. 213 128 37 132 47 i74 16 217 136 3° 47 189 220 157 xoo xo 62 89 TpALL RIVER LINE.;............. Fan wood___________________ Fencers’ Club.................. Ferries, Various .............. Fifth Avenue, A Ride Up________ Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church Fifth Avenue Stages............ Fifth Avenue Theater ............ Fifty-ninth Street.____________ Financial Institutions......... Finderne_______________________ Fire Department, The .......... 218 189 30 xi8 161 30 48 125 90 219 156INDEX. PAGE Five Points____________________ 150 Five Points Mission ___________ 171 Five Points House of Industry__'171 Flemington...__________________ 219 Florence Mission............... 148 Fort Hamilton.................. 142 Fort Hancock __ .............. 144 Fort Lafayette_________________ 142 Fort Lee....................... 215 Fort Lee Ferry________________ 30 Fort Schuyler__________________ 129 Fort Slocum____________________ 128 Fort Wadsworth................. 143 Forty-second Street____________ 120 Fourteenth Street Ferry........ 31 Fourteenth Street Theater ...__ 48 Franklin Square_______________ 25 Franklin Street Ferry__________ 31 Fraunce’s Tavern______________ 24 Free Circulating Library, The__184 Free Masonry __________________ 192 Fulton Ferry___________________ 31 Fulton Market_________________ 134 pARDEN THEATER.. Garrick Theater___ Garwood_______________ Germania Theater______ Getting About the City... Glen Island___________ Glenside Park......... Golf Links, Public ... Governor’s Island_____ Governor’s Island Ferry . Gowanus Bay___________ Grace Church__________ Gramercy Park ........ Grand Central Palace__ Grand Central Station_ Approaches to_______ Grand Opera House_____ Grand Street Ferry____ Grant Statue, The ..... Grant’s Tomb__________ Greater New York______ (Boroughs of________ Extent of___________ “Greek Letter” Clubs ... Greenpoint Ferry______ Greenwood Cemetery_____ Greenwood Lake________ Gymnasiums ........... 48 48 218 48 16 128 218 58 *3* 3i 142 *59 hi 56 11 12 31 2°3 75 x95 x95 x95 189 32 201 220 56 TLTACKENSACK_______________ 220 Hacks__________________12, 13 Hall of Fame_____________ 179 Hamburg-American Packet Co__ 8 Hamilton Ferry............. 32 Harbor, A Tour of the______... 134 Harbor Police, The_________ 149 Harbor Scenery.___________ 142 Harlem Bridges______________ 37 Harlem Club____t________:... 189 Harlem Music Hall__________ 48 Harlem Opera House.......... 48 227 Harlem River, The____ Harmony Club......... Hartford Line........ Hart’s Island........ Harvard Club_________ Health Department____ Hebrews in New York. _ Hellgate, Above______ Herald Square________ Herald Square Theater. High Bridge__________ Hoboken______________ Hoboken Ferry________ Holland-American Line Hospitals and Charities. Hotels, List of______ Huber’s Theater ..... Humane Societies.... Hunter’s Point_______ PAGE --- 37 ... 189 ... 9 ... 129 ... 189 149 164 128 22 .... 49 ---- 37 .... 215 ---- 32 .... 8 ____169 .222, 223 .... 49 ____ 172 ____129 TNTRODUCTION to New York. 7-9 -L Irving Place Theater__ 49 TACKSON SQUARE________________ 60 J Jeannette Square____________ 59 Jersey City..___________________214 Jersey City Ferries (see map):,.,... 32 “Judea,” In___________________ 155 Jockey Club____________________ 123 TWILL VAN KULL..._........ 146 King’s Bridge__________ 38 King’s Daughters and Sons, Inter- national Order of___________ 169 Kingston (Ulster & Delaware R. R.) 9 Knickerbocker Athletic Club___ 189 Knickerbocker Club___________ 189 Knickerbocker Theater ........ 49 T AMBS CLUB____________________ Lawyers Club_______________ Lectures.........______________ Lehigh Valley Railroad.......10, Lenox Library, The_____________ Lenox Lyceum___________________ Letter Rates___________________ Lexington Avenue Opera House. Liberty Statue, The____________ Libraries and Reading Rooms .... Liederkranz, The............... Lightships..................... Lincoln Building, The__________ “ Little Church ’round the Corner, The”_________________________ London Theater................ Long Branch____________________ Long Island City...__________31, Long Island Coast Resorts...A. Long Island Railroad___.... ___ Lost Property Office, El. R. R. .... Lotos Club_____________________ Lower Park (Central Park)...... Lutheran Churches _____________ Lyceum Theater 189 189 55 219 181 55 42 49 x37 180 54 144 114 160 49 211 130 209 12 x7 189 60 163 49228 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. PAGE TV/TADISON SQUARE ____________ 82 1VX Madison Square Garden_____ 52 Madison Square Presbyterian Church______________________ 161 Madison Square Roof Garden -..49, 52 Madison Square Theater________ 49 Maine Steamship Company_______ 8 Mall, The (Central Park)_______ 62 Mallory Line__________________ 8 Manhattan Beach_______________ 210 Manhattan Club______________ 189 Manhattan Steamship Company __ 8 Manhattan Theater_________.... 50 Mariner’s Church, The__________ 164 u Mary Powell”_______________ 9 Masonic Temple, The___________ 192 McComb’s Dam Bridge____________ 37 Medicine (see under Bellevue, Co- lumbia Universit3>\ and Univer- sity of City of New York). Menagerie, The............... _. 61 Mercantile Library, The.______ 184 Merchants Club_________________189 Messenger Service............ 43 Methodist Episcopal Churches__162 Metropolitan Club ........... 189 Metropolitan Museum of Art____ 68 Metropolitan Opera House________ 50 Midland Beach_______________ 208 Miner’s Theater________________ 49 Miner’s Eighth Avenue Theater 51 Montclair.................. 220 Moravian Society, The......... 163 Morgan Line (Southern Pac. R. R.) 8 Morgue, The.__________________ 170 Morningside Heights........... 78 Morningside Park.______________ 78 Morris & Essex Railroad________ 10 Morris Heights_____________... 24 Mount Morris Park ______________ 79 Mount Morris Theater ......... 51 Mount Vernon_______________ 213 Mulberry Bend Park ... _______ 151 Mulberry Bend, The____________ 151 Murray Hill_________________ 119 Murray Hill Theater____________ 51 Museums and Galleries___________ 55 Museum of Natural History, The. 64 Music, Lectures, and Exhibitions.. 52 Musical Societies_____________ 54 AT ARROWS, THE.............. x43 National Academy of Design 185 National Sculpture Society____ 185 Navy Yard_____________-.______203 Navesink Highlands____________ 144 Netherwood __________________ 218 Newark___________________ 215, 217 Newark Bay: A_________________ 145 Newark, Northward of__________ 220 New Brunswick_________________ 2x6 Newburgh (two lines)___________ 9 New Haven (N.Y.,N.H. &H. R.R.) 9 New Jersey Athletic Club______ 56 New Jersey Coast Resorts .....211, 214 PAGE New Jersey Inland Towns________ New Jersey Northern Railroad___ New Jersey Shore..___-.________ New Jersey Trolley Lines_______ New Market_____________________ New Rochelle __________________ Newspaper Offices______________ Newspaper Square_______________ New York Athletic Club_________ New York Central & Hudson River Railroad____________________n New York Club__________________ New York & Cuba Mail Steamship Company____________________ . New York & Greenwood Lake Rail- road __________________________ New York & Harlem Railroad_____ New York Historical Society____ New York Hospital, The ........ New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad.... ________________ New York, Lake Erie & Western Railroad . __________________ New York Public Library ....... New York & Putnam Railroad_____ New York, Susquehanna & West- ern Railroad___________________ New York Stock Exchange_______ New York Theater............... New York Yacht Club........... Nocturnal Rambles, A Route for.. Normal College, The___________ North Brother Island___________ North (or Bowery Beach) Ferry .. North German Lloyd Line________ North River Water Front, The___ Norwich (New London & Northern Railroad)...................... 216 10 214 220 219 213 102 95 190 , 12 190 10 11 193 ' 170 IX 219 180 10 96 5i 190 I47 176 171 126 9 CYBELISK, THE________________ 70 ^ Ocean Steamers____________ 127 Ohio Society ________________ 190 Odd Fellows__________________ 193 Ocean Grove__________________ 212 PAINTINGS (see Metropolitan Museum of Art). Panama Railroad Steamship Line Parks, Drives, and Museums..... Park Plaza, The (Brooklyn)..... Passaic_________________________ Paterson________________________ Pavonia Ferry__________________ Pelham__________________________ Pelham Park_____________________ Pennsylvania Railroad___________ People’s Theater_______________ Phenix Line___________________ Philadelphia & Reading Railroad. Picton_________________________ Plainfield______1............... Players Club____________________ Police Force, The_______________ Police Headquarters............. Polo............................ 9 59 219 219 32 213 80 51 8 10 219 218 190 149 149 58INDEX. 229 PAGE Pomptons, The___________________ Port Morris....................... Post Office, The____________40, List of Sub-stations of the__ Presbyterian Churches___________ Presbyterian Hospital___________ Press Club..____________________ Prince Line_____________________ Prince’s Bay____________________ Printing House Square___________ Private Philanthropies__________ Private Residences, Palatial (see under Fifth Avenue, A Ride Up). Prohibition Park ............... Proctor’s Pleasure Palace_______ Proctor’s Pleasure Palace Roof Garden_______________________ Proctor’s Theater .............. Produce Exchange, The .......... Prominent Business Buildings ... Prospect Park (Brooklyn)________ Public Schools__________________ Public Library System and List Puerto Rico Steamship Company .. 220 129 IOX 42 160 170 190 8 I45 102 171 207 51 5i 5i 87 46 198 T74 180 9 QUAKERS’ Meeting Houses____163 Quarantine Station____ 143 Quebec Steamship Company . 9 HACQUET CLUB, THE.............. 57 Racquet and Tennis Club___190 Rahway________________________ 216 Railroads, various: Connecting with New York__16-12 - Elevated, in New York ....... 16 Railway Stations_____________10-12 Rapid Transit Railroad_________ 39 Ramble at Night, A_________x47-158 Ramble, The (Central Park)_____ 63 Randall’s Island_____________ 171 Raritan Bay___________________ 145 Recreation Piers ------------- 60 Red D Lines.................... 9 Red Hook___________________ 142 Red Star Line................ 8 Reform Club.................. 190 Religious Organizations_______ 168 Republican Club_____________ 190 Republic Theater.............. 49 'Rialto, The.................. 48 Riding Club.................. 190 Rifle Practice and Shooting ... 57 Rivers and Harbor, The........ 126 Riverside Park_______________ 75 River Steamboats_______________ 9 Rockaway______....------------ 2x0 Roman Catholic Churches_______ 164 Roman Catholic Institutions.. 180 Roof Gardens___________________ 51 Roosevelt Ferr;y_______________ 32 Roosevelt Hospital____________ 170 Roselle_______________________ 218 Royal Dutch West Indies Mail Line 9 Rutherfords, The.............. 219 Russian Quarter, The......... 154 PAGE CAILOR’S SNUG HARBOR .146, 206 ^ St. Andrew, Brotherhood of 169 St. George’s Church............. 160 St. Luke’s Hospital______________ 170 St. Nicholas Club............. 190 St. Nicholas Rink_________________ 51 St. Patrick’s Cathedral__________ 166 St. Paul’s Church................ 158 St. Vincent’s Hospital___________ 170 Scientific Alliance, The_________ 196 Scientific and Learned Societies 194 Salmagundi Club_________________ 190 Salvation Army, The.............. 169 Sand’s Point__________________ 129 Sandy Hook____________________ 144 Savoy Theater_____________________ 51 Savannah Line___________________ _ 9 Scandinavian-American Line________ 8 Seaside and Suburban Resorts______209 Seward Park______________________ 60 Secret Orders___________________ 192 Shopping District, The .......... 114 Social Clubs_____________________ 188 Society of American Artists_______ 186 Society for Prevention of Crime 173 Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals_____________ 172 Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Children__________________ 172 Society for Suppression of Vice... 173 Society Library, The............. 184 Somerville..................... 219 Sound Steamboats___________________ 9 South Brooklyn Ferry.............. 32 South Crawford....._............... 2x9 South .Staten Island............ 207- Speedway, The___________________ 80 State Charities Aid Association ... 171 Staten Island__________143, 146, 206 Staten Island Ferry______________ 32 Staten Island Trolley Lines . ... 208 Steamboats, River and Sound_______ 9 Steamship Landings.............. 7-9 Steamship Lines, Various_________ 7-9 Stock Exchange____________________ 96 Stonington (Railroad to Boston) .. 9 Stuyvesant Square_______________ in Sub-treasury, The_________________ 94 Surface Cars in Brooklyn......... 198 Swedenborgians in New York________164 Synagogues ................... 164 ■'T'APPAN_______________________ 220 Teachers’College and Horace Mann School__________________ 178 Telegraphs______________________ 43 Telephones______________________ 43 Temple Emanu-El________________ 163 Terrace and Lake, (Central Park) 63 Thalia Theater____________________ 51 Theaters, List of _ 46 Theaters in Brooklyn_____________ 196 Third Avenue Theater______________ 52 Tombs, The .................. 108 Tompkins Square.................. 60230 HANDY GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. PAGE Tony Pastor’s Theater............ 52 Tottenville_____________________ 145 Tour of the City, A.____________ 82 Transatlantic Steamship Lines___7, 8 Trinity Church__________________ 157 Trinity Churchyard_____________ 158 Trip down the Bay, A........... 134 Troy, Citizen’s Line______________ 9 Twelfth Night Club_____________ 190 Twenty-third Street Ferry ....... 32 TTNION CLUB __________________ 190 Union League Club......... 190 Union Square___________________ 1x2 Union Square Theater (Keith’s). _. 52 Union Theological Seminary_____ 179 Unitarian Churches_____________ 163 Universalist Churches...........163 University Club________________ 192 University of the City of New York 178 United Charities_____________ 26 T7"AN CORTLANDT PARK_______ 79 V Vanderbilt Houses, The___ 123 Victoria Theater ..._______ 52 WALDORF-ASTORIA, THE.. 1x9 vv Wall Street............ 90 Wall Street Ferry__________ 32 Wallack’s Theater__________ 52 Ward’s Island______________ 171 Washington Arch......... 84 Washington Bridge________ 38' PAGE Washington Heights______*.____ 75 Washington Square_____________ 82 Water Color Society__________ 186 Water Supply__________________ 37 Weber & Field’s Music Hall____ 52 Weehawken Ferry_______________ 32 Weehawken___________________ 215 West Brighton________________ 209 Westchester__________________ 213 Westchester County Resorts____ 213 Westfield____________________ 218 West Shore Railroad__________ 220 West Shore and Ontario & West- ■ ern Railroads_______________ 10 White Star Line________________ 8 White Cross Society, The_____ 169 Willet’s Point_______________ 129 Wilson Line__________________ 8 Windsor Theater_______________ 52 Winter Sports________________ 58 Woman’s Hospital of the State of New York _________________ 17b Women’s Press Club___________ 192 \CALE CLUB____________________ 192 Yonkers__________________ 213 Yonkers Rapid Transit Line____ 12 Young Women’s Christian Associ- ation_______________________ 169 Young Men’s Christian Association 168 ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN, THE 80 HOTEL EARLINGTON NEW YORK CITY New and Absolutely Fireproof European plan 27th St., West, near Broadway The most central and accessible loca- tion in the city combined with quiet and refined surroundings. Tariff of Rates Single rooms (bath), fx.so to $2; double rooms (bath), 1 person, $2 ; double rooms (bath), 2 persons, $3. Bath rooms adjoin- ing. Large double rooms, with private bath rooms, 1 person, $3; large double rooms, with private bath rooms, 2 per- sons, $4. Suites of parlor, bedroom, and bath for one person, $3, $4, $5,$7. Suites of parlor, bedroom, and bath for 2 per- sons, $4, $5, $6, $8. Suites of parlor, 2 bedrooms, and bath, $7, $8, $10. E. M. EARLE, & SON 30 years connected with Earle’s Hotel.Hudson River by Daylight The Most Charming Inland Water Trio on the American Continent. THE PALACE IRON STEAMERS "NEW YORK" and “ALBANY” OF THE HUDSON RIVER DAY LINE, Leave New York Daily, except Sunday, from Desbrosses Street Pier, 8.40 a. m.; Twenty-second Street Pier, N. R., 9.00 a. m.? W. 129th Street Pier, 9.20 a. m. From Albany, 8.30 a. m. THE FAVORITE ROUTE TO AND FROM THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS, SARATOGA AND THE ADIRONDACKS, HOTEL CHAMPLAIN AND THE NORTH, NIAGARA FALLS AND THE WEST, THE THOUSAND ISLANDS AND THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. Appreciating the demand of the better class of tourists for comfort and luxury, the management of the Bay Line have perfected their service in every manner possible, keep- ing it fully abreast of the times. The elegant steamers areas famous as is the majestic river on which they run. Built of iron, of great speed and superb appointments, they are the finest of their class afloat. No freight of any description is carried, the steamers being designed exclusively for the passenger service. Richly furnished private parlors, giving absolute seclusion and privacy to small parties or families, are provided, and handsomely appointed dining rooms, with superior service, are on the main deck, affording an uninter- rupted view of the magnificent scenery for which the Hudson is renowned. ATTRACTIVE DAILY OUTINGS (EXCEPT SUNDAY) TO WEST POINT, NEWBURGH, AND POUGHKEEPSIE. Send six cents for copy of “ Summer Excursion Book.” E. E. OLCOTT, General Manager, F. B. HIBBARD, General Passenger Agent, DESBROSSES STREET PIER. NEW YORK.SieKjlerybus ID CENTS. CURES AIL headaches. rQu ickly cured by SO£D£VEf?rm?£PE. /Oc FOR SALE ON ALL TRAINS DR. FAHRNEY’S Teething Syrup As a Relief from the irritations incident to the cutting of baby’s teeth it has no equal, and was especially prepared to relieve the sufferings of the little ones during this try- ing time—to make the teeth come through easily—to allay pain—and to keep the stomach in trim for good digestion. It Relieves and Cures such ailments as colic, dysentery, vomiting, diarrhea, constipation, biliousness, irregularity of the liver, and the different forms of in- digestion. There is one particular dread disease of children, called Summer Complaint or Cholei'a, Infamtum, which causes death in the face of the best treatment. Unless in the last stages, Dr, Fahrney’s Teething' Syrup will be found to be a superior remedy and cure for this dread disease, and will pre- vent it in all cases if used in time. It is sold "by all druggists at twenty-five cents per bottle, or will be mailed direct on receipt of price. Sample bottle will be mailed free if you mention this book. Address the makers, DRS. D. FAHRNEY & SON, * 122-126 W. Washington St., Hagerstown, Md. xiiiGREEN’S HOTEL Corner Eighth and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia, Pa. FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. EUROPEAN PLAN. 315 Rooms at $1.00 and $1.50 per Day and Upwards. 60 New Rooms with Bath Attached. FINEST RESTAURANT IN PHILADELPHIA. ALL MODERN CONVENIENCES. TELEPHONE IN EVERY ROOM. Table d’Hote Dinner 50 cents, from 12 m. to 8 p. m. MUSIC BY PROFESSOR MEYER’S ORCHESTRA. Eighth and Chestnut Street Trolley Cars pass the Hotel at the Rate of Three per Minute to all Parts of the City. This hotel is centrally located, and in the very heart of the city, being but one square from the Postoffice, Strawbridge & Clothier s. Lit Brothers, and op- 4 ____ posite Gimbel Brothers, and Partridge & Richardson, and easy of access to all Theaters, Railway Stations, Public Buildings, and Points of Interest. MAHLON W. NEWTON, Tix Celebrated Angora Cat Proprietor. of Green's HotelTHE EREDONIA FIRST-CLASS FAIVIILY HOTEL. 1321-1323 H Street, Northwest, WASHINGTON, D. C. “the fredonia hotel, a MODERN HOTEL HOME.” “The man without a home of his own will find this Hotel of ioo rooms the next best thing to it. It is centrally located, thoroughly equipped with every modern appliance, both for comfort and safety, newly furnished throughout from top to bottom, convenient to all lines of cars, and is in the midst of many of the city’s most prominent points of interest. It is conducted upon both the American and European Plans and has a cuisine not excelled by any hostelry in the city.” RATES. American: One person, $2.00 per day, $ 12 per week, $40 per month and upward. Two persons, $3.50 per day, $20 per week, $75 per month and upward. European: Rooms, one person, $ I per day and upward. Two persons, C t $ 1.50 per day and upward. Special Excursion Rates will be quoted to parties of twenty or more upon application to q WM. W. DANENHOWER, Proprietor,\ Hotel ‘Betteclaire Broadway and 77th Street NEW YORK CITY Luxuriously Furnished Rooms for permanent and transient guests at moderate prices. Orchestra of Solo Players 6 p. m. till 1 a. m. Restaurant, “Palm Room, and Cafe, gems of artistic perfection. Cuisine and service really delightful. You will say so. A special feature is our **After Theater Suppers.” A Hilliard’Parlor for Ladies is another pleasant feature. Original with the Belleclaire is the Refined Vaudeville eVery Thursday Evening Our gallery of beautiful paintings, valued at $50,000, is open evenings to visitors. Jiff ability and courtesy guaranteed from eVery Helteclaire employe. MILTON ROHLEE, Proprietor, \\ OHGHNIZBD 1SS1. Che Berkshire * life insurance ♦ Companp... WILLIAM R. PLUNKETT, President JAMES M. BARKER, Vice-President JAMES W. HULL, Secretary and Treasurer. OF PITTSFIELD, MASS. Its policies are protected by the Non-Forfeiture Laws of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, which secure greater bene- fits to members than those of any other State. The Massachusetts Non-Forfeiture Law applies only to policies issued by Massachusetts companies. It does not even apply to policies issued by companies of other States upon the lives of Massachusetts citizens. Its conditions as to travel and residence are very liberal. It has a large surplus over the legal reserve and all other liabilities. NEW YORK STATE AGENCY, 253 Broadway, Postal Building, JOHN H. ROBINSON, Manager. Map of Berkshire County, showing roads, schools, churches, and points of interest, sent free on application to home office or any agent.WELLINGTON.,* . . . NEW YO RK . . . The WELLINGTON, at 7th Avenue and 55th Street. . Modern, fireproof; telephone every apartment; every room with bath; $2.50 per day and up; also suites, furnished or unfurnished, by the season or year. The WESTMINSTER, Irving Place and 16th Street, one block from Union Square and Gramercy Park. Remodeled at a cost of over $100,000 ; tele- phone, steam heat, electric lights, open fires in every room; seventy-five new bathrooms ; rates $1 per day and up. The Westminster apartments are now connected with hotel on ground floor; two to seven rooms, with bath. A. W. EAGER. THE MAJESTIC ATLANTA, GA, APARTMENT HOTEL Entire construction absolutely fireproof, On fashionable Peachtree Street. Opposite Capitol City Club and Governor’s Mansion. Caters only to the best. Ralph Van Landingham, ManagerTHE BOLTON MARKET SQUARE, HARRISBURG, PA. Rates $2.50 Per Day and Up. Special Rates for Commercial Men. LARGE AND CONVENIENT SAMPLE ROOMS. Passenger and Baggage Elevator. Electric Cars to and from Depot. ELECTRIC LIGHT AND STEAM HEAT ROOMS EN SUITE OR SINGLE WITH BATHS. J. H. & M. S. BUTTERWORTH, ■ . Prop’rs.The Picturesque and ONLY All-Rail Route running Through Drawing-Room Cars between New York, Philadelphia and Bloomville, AND BETWEEN Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Long Branch, New York, and Kingston, to Saratoga and Lake George, DURING THE SUMMER SEASON THE FAVORITE ROUTE OF BUSINESS AND PLEASURE TRAVEL BETWEEN EAST, W|ST, NORTHWEST, AND SOUTHWEST. THE FAST EXPRESS TRAINS over this line have elegant Palace and Sleeping Cars between New York, Boston, Kingston, Albany, Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls, to Hamil- ton, Toronto, Detroit, Cleveland, Chicago, and St. Louis, without change. For tickets, time tables, and full information apply to any Ticket Agent, WEST SHORE RAILROAD, or address C. E. LAMBERT, General Passenger Agent, Room 204, Transit Bldg., 7 E. 42d St. New York. 17Accommodations and cuisine unsurpassed. Send for particulars and illustrated booklet. A. M. GRAHAM, Agent, W. P. CORIA, Agent, Boston, Mass. Providence, R. I. W. P. TURNER, G. P. A. A. D. STEBBINS, G. M. J. C. WHITNEY, 2d V.=P. and T. M. GENERAL OFFICES, BALTIMORE, MD. "FINEST COASTWISE TRIPS IN THE WORLD." Hmls i Jillners Trans. Co. STEAMSHIP LINES "Queen of Sea Routes” FROM BOSTON and PROVIDENCE TO NORFOLK . RICHMOND / OLD POINT WASHINGTON v BALTIMORE and all Points South and WestTKe PALATINE, W Newburg, N. Y, IfgljuS on arri- -- val of boats and trains to convey guests to the Palatine which is located but three blocks from landing. The view from the Piaza of the Palatine is very beautiful, ex- tending several miles up and down the Hud- son. ^ HORATIO N. BAIN & CO.0 Proprietors NELSON HOUSE, Poughkeepsie, N. Y. UjARGEST and best equipped hotel in the city. The Nelson House is the most centrally located hotel in the city, adjacent to the Post Office, Banks, County Offices, etc. Ho N. BAIN ProprietorDELICIOUS! ALL SODA FOUNTAINS 5 CENTS PER GLASS INDEPENDENCE HALL.—Chestnut between Fifth and Sixth Streets. Philadelphia. xiiAmerican Plan .... .00 per day . . and..... upwards . OPPOSJTE'THE TREASURY, LOCKLEH OM/TH E-.WH l TEIHOUSJ& The Hotel par excellence op the National Capital Electric Cars pass the door to all parts of the city. The most centrally located of any hotel in the city. ALSO Thousand Island ALEXANDRIA. BAX, N. X. AMERICA'S MOST BEAUTIFUL RESORT. Send two 2-cent stamps for beautiful illustrated guide, to O, G. STAPLES, Proprietor and Owner. National Hotel WASHINGTON, D. C. Opposite Pennsylvania Railroad. O. G. STAPLES, = = Proprietor,O0Q1OO © V"IIVW XSVd, pa^iuun l^V^9UUU00 »> snoutBti ^ S ^ o O o W +THE SEA TRIP OF THE Old Dominion Line Makes a most attractive route to Norfolk, Old Point Comfort, Virginia Beach, Richmond, Va., and Washington, D. C. Steamers sail daily except Sunday from Pier 26, North River, foot of Beach Street, New York. Tickets including meals and stateroom berth, $8.00 one way, $13.00 round trip, and upwards. Send stamp for illustrated book. Old Dominion Steamship Co. 81 Beach Street, New York, N. Y. H. B. WALKER, Traf. Mgr. d. J. BROWN, G. P A. O5flesf o/4// and aj± Old and Well-Tried Remedy For Children While Cutting their Teeth 1840 1904 has been used for over Sixty Years by Millions of Mothers for their Children While Teething with Perfect Success. It Soothes the Child\ Softens the Gums, Allays all Pain; Cures Wind Colic, and is the best remedy for Diarrhoea. Sold by Druggists in every part of the world. Be sure and ask for Mrs, Winslow’s Soothing: Syrnp, and take no other kind. Twenty-Five Cents a Bottle.TRAVEL IS EDUCATION 'Take your children with you under care of Tutor or GOVER- NESS. If this is not feasible, we will send you the BEST Talent for Home Training, or will recommend the Best Schools. “THE RIGHT TEACHER IN THE RIGHT PLACE” Schermerhorn Teachers’ Agency Oldest and Best Known. Established 1855 3 E. 14th Street, NEW YORK CITY Telephone 6129=18 American and Foreign Educational Bureau Colleges and Secondary Schools Supplied With Competent Instructors TEACHERS of ANY "BRANCH, for any GRADE, for PRIVATE SCHOOLS, for FAMILY, for PUBLIC SCHOOLS, for ANYTHING EDUCATIONAL, RECOMMENDED We have superior Teachers immediately available. If you are seeking-a wider field, if you are seeking best Teachers, if you wish to keep in touch with the opportunities for one of your experience and personality, it will pay you to communicate with this Bureau We Find Positions, We Supply teachers, We Handle School Property, We Recommend Private tutors and Governesses, We JldVise Parents Selecting Schools FREE SERVICE to Employers. We await your order JOHN C. ROCKWELL, Manager 3 E. 14, NEW YORK CITY Send for CircularsTHE FRANKLIN SQUARE HOUSE (HOTEL AND HOWIE FOR WOMEN), BOSTON, MASS.—See next page.Franklin Square House A HOME FOR SELF-SUPPORTING YOUNG WOMEN, WITH HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS, OR, A HOTEL WITH THE HOME SPIRIT, Large Hall with Grand Organ, Free Entertainments, Recreation Rooms, Reading Room, Educational Department RATES, INCLUDING BOARD, $3.50 TO $7.00 PER WEEK. 0 0 0 0 TRANSIENT DEPARTMENT For Women traveling alone. Also suites for groups of women traveling together RATES, INCLUDING BOARD, $1.00 TO $1.50 PER DAY. FRANKLIN SQUARE, BOSTON, TaKe Washington Street Car.Broadway Central Hotel NOS. 667 TO 677 CORNER THIRD STREET. NEW YORK MIDWAY BETWEEN BATTERY AND CENTRAL PARK. ar. five been thoroughly rebuilt and completely reorganized at mei a daa^ ter of a million dollars, and is perfect in detail and unsurpassed in Recommends itself for its thoroughly careful management, its Clearne table and service, and reasonable charges. LOCAIION ABSOLUTELY UNE(}UALED FOR BUSINESS, SIGHT-SEEING, AND PLEASURE. w^^?+iI^d+?,ran5lt Electric Lines passing the doors, run the entire length of Si15att/vry t0 Central Park, Grand Central R. R. Station, Lenox Avenue, arfn oS oh^rlclg?’and f4rant s Tomb, passing all the fashionable stores, theatres, ana principal attractions of the city. GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT PASSENGERS CAN TAKE LEXINGTON AVENUE ELECTRIC CARS 5tA°i/!il1?»iitatloni>dirfclto or from the ll0tel t0 42d Street,or Fourth Avenue cars aiiect to Astoi Place or Rond Street, one block in front. m + u2'HN^E/;EVATKAILlt0A,,S: Sixth Avenue Station, Bleeker Street, one block 111 tLe rear Third Avenue Station, Houston Street, two blocks in front. to the hotel °WU CarS transfer at Broadway with the electric lines, taking guests direct toiJ?S,seil^rs5r’v'n^ any khe ferries, or either foreign or coastwise steamers, can ^^?e+^:12ycf^^is'tow^TC•ar^, °F walk to Broadway and take electric cars direct to the hotel, or EfmiSnTi Elevated, stopping at Bleeker on Sixth Avenue, and Houston Street Station on third Avenue line, three minutes from hotel. The Central will be run on both the American and European Plan. The Regular Tariff of Charges for each person will he For Room only, - - - - - $1.00, £1.50, and $2.00 ISiSSfelSeAt'A : : : ?2 5.0’ “ft**™ Meals, when taken with rooms, for- full day, 50 cents each ^ . Rooms with parlor or bath, extra. According to size, location, and convenience, and whether occupied by one or more persons. SPECIAL RATES FOR FAMILIES OR PERMANENT GUESTS. for full particulars, send for large colored maps AND OTHER INFORMATION TO UNITED STATES HOTEL, BOSTON. TILLY HAYNES, broadway central PROPRIETOR. HOTEL, CABLE ADDRESS u TILLY.” NEW YORK.RIRD’S=E,YE, Map of New YorK. For full particulars send for large colored maps and other information. i Central. 3rand E Central] 1 Depot 8 Albany Nigtil