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SHISHOkM W
1
HITE MOONfAI
w*

*»•$»

HT42:
!|Sw3<

fi

'©(JIBE

PR1CE..25CT?'

FIFTH

AVENUE

HOTEL,

1IAMS0I g«|UAKE, IEW IOEK.

THE LARGEST, BEST APPOINTED, AND MOST LIBERALLY MANAGED HOTEL IN THE
WITH THE MOST CENTRAL AND DELIGHTFUL LOCATION.

HITCHCOCK, DARLING, & co.

CITY,

Robert Bonner's Sons' New Novels.
The Northern
Zight.
Translated from the German of E. Werner by
Mrs.
D. M. Lowrey. 12mo, 373 pages, handsomely bound in cloth, $1; paper
cover, 50 cents.
Th« Forsaken
Inn.
By Anna Katharine Gieen. Illustrated by Victor
Perard. Bound in cloth, $1.50; paper covers, 50 cents.
A. Matter
of Millions.
By Anna Katharine Green.
Magnificently
illustrated by Victor Perard. 12mo, 482 pages, handsomely bound in English
cloth, gold stamping ©n cover, $1.50; paper cover, to cents.
Mrs.
Harold, Siagg.
A novel. By Robert Grant, author of " J a c k
Hall," etc. Beautifully illustrated by Harry C. Edwards. Paper cover, 50
cents; bound in cloth, $>1.
The Unloved Wife.
By Mrs. Southvrorth. Willi eight choice illustrations. Elegantly bound in cloth, $1; paj *r covers. 50 cents.
Lilith:
A Sequel to " The Unloved Wife " By Mrs. E. D. E. N. Southworth. With illustrations by O. W. Simons. Paper covers, 50 cents; bound
in cloth, $1.
Paoli, the Last of the Missionaries. A picture of the overthrow of the
Christians in Japan in the Seventeenth Century. By W. C. Kitchin. Superbly illustrated with large and small engravings from designs by G. A.
Traver and Henry Bouche. 12mo, 500 pages, handsomely bound in cloth, $1;
paper cover, 50 cents.
The Beads of Tasmer.
By Mrs. Amelia E. Barr, author of " J a n Vedder's Wife," etc. Beautifully illustrated by Victor Perard. 12mo, 395 pages,
bound in English cloth, $1.25.
The Breach of Custom
Translated from the German by Mrs. D. M.
Lowrey. With choice illustrations by O. W. Simons. Paper cover, 50 cents;
bound volume, $1.
Under Oath.
An Adirondack Story. By Jean Kate Ludlum. Handsomely bound in cloth, $1; paper covers, 50 cents.
The Alchemist.
Translated from the French of Honore de Balzac,
with illustrations by F . A. Carter. Elegantly bound in eloth, $ 1 ; paper covers, 50 cents.
Cousin JRons, Translated from the French of Honore de Balzac. With
twelve beautiful and characteristic illustrations by Whitney. 12mo, 439
pages, handsomely bound in cloth. $ 1 ; paper cover, 50 cents.
Cesar Birotteau.
From the French of Honore do Balzac. With fourteen choice illustrations by Harry C. Edwards. Paper cover, 50 cents;
cloth, $1.
Ununited.
A Story of the Civil War. By a popular Southern author.
Illustratpd by F . A. Cartel. Handsomely decorated paper cover, 50 cents;
bound in cloth, $1. This is a splendid novel of the late war. It deals with
the armies and their operation-* © • both side?, aud shows the feelings of
»
brothers who crossed swords in the conflict.
The New South.
By Henry W. Grady. With a character sketch of
Henry W. Grady bv Oliver Dver, author of " Great Senators." With portrait. 16mo, bound in cloth, uniform with " Great Senators," $1.
Great Senators.
By Oliver Dyer. 12mo, bound in cloth, $1. Mr. Dyer's
reminiscences and character delineations of Calhoun, Benton, Clay and
Webster, and Sam Houston, Jefferson Davis and other United States Senators, have been a great success. His book is written in a brilliant and charming style, and deals with persons and a period of great interest to all Americans.
For sale by all booksellers,
priee, by

SOBERT

o r sent

postj/ahl

BONNER'S SONS*

on receipt

of

PUBLISHERS,
T

Cor. William and Spruce Sts., 1S EW Y O R K .

CANDY
CHOCOLATES
OF T H E H I G H E R GRADES. T H E T R A D E
SUPPLIED.

ALEX. M. POWELL,
MANUFACTURING CONFECTIONER,

1 5 0 & 1 5 2 C h a m b e r s St.,

N e w York,

J^ORING, SHORT & HARMON,
Opposite Preble House, Congress Street, PORTLAND, MAINE.
Have a Large and Caiefully Selected Stock of

sbut f( •ami*)fellaeons*]
SUCH AS IS NEEDED BY THE

SUMMER TOURIST AND TRAVELER.
Visitors are a l w a y s w e l c o m e , a n d w i l l find c o m f o r t a b l e seats and
polite a t t e n t i o n .

FINE STATIONERY
IN GREAT VARIETY.

WEEKS & BRUCE,
I n t e r v a l e , IT. KC.3
Proprietors of

T h e CLAREMDOHs

Everything new and first-class. Good livery in connection with the house.
Free carriage to and from depot. New and modern hotp]. Fine location.
Pleasant rooms. Beds furnished with the best of springs and hair mattressps.
TJERMS from $8 to $21 per week. Accommodates 100. Open to the
public for the first season, Jialy 1, 1891.

Tfee EQoiii]taii] View Jjouse,
BETHLEHEM, N. H.
I. A. TAYLOR,

PROPRIETOR.

This House is beautifully situated, overlooking all the prominent mountains. Those looking for a quiet and homelike place to spend their vacation,
will find at the Mountain View House all the comforts that are necessary.
The table will be first-class in all particulars, and great care has been taken
to make the rooms pleasant and comfortable.
A First-cla«s Livery, composed of good, gentle horses and niee carriages
is connected with House, and daily excursions are made to the different points
of interest.
Terms reasonable.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN
TOURISTS
SHOULD NOT FAIL TO EXAMINE T H E

Beautiful

VIEW-B00KS

of this region, just issued for the season of 1888.

ENTIRELY NEW.
Produced in Germany by the Photo-Litho
Process, expressly for us.
PRICES, ACCORDING TO SIZE, AS F O L L O W S :

Size 5 / ^ b y 6 i n c h e s , 27 views,
"
6
" 9}4
"
24
"
"
7/2 " 1 0 ^ "
84
"

.
.
.

P r i c e $ .25
"
.50
"
1.00

The $1.00 book contains 84 views. Every view of prominence
in the mountain region, beautifully bound in cloth.

Above books for sale on all White-Mountain
trains, a?id at the Hotel
Stands, or sent on receipt of price by the publishers.

News

CHISHOLM BROS., Publishers,
PORTLAND

. MAINE.

United States Hotel, Boston,

RECENTLY ENLARGED AND GREATLY IMPROVED.
Altogether the Most Accessible and Convenient Hotel in Boston.
Being- Directly Opposite t h e Boston & Albany, and only one block from t h e
Old Colony and Fall R i v e r L i n e s .
Three Blocks only from the New York & New England or Providence a n d
Stonington Stations.
Passengers to or from all Southern or Western Points, by either boat or rail, will
save all carriage fare.
Careful Porters meet all Through Trains at the Station, or passengers can bring their
checks directly to the Hotel Office, and Light Baggage will be transferred free.

SIXTEEN HUNDRED HORSE-CARS,
Passing three sides of the Hotel, bring it in direct and close connection with every
NOKTHERN and EASTERN RAILWAY STATION and STEAMBOAT as well as many attractions

of CITY, SEASHORE, and SUBURBS, giving guests every possible facility and
convenience of rapid and economical transfer from all points

UNEQUALLED BY ANY HOTEL IN BOSTON,

Thus making1 a most convenient point to stop on arriving- in the city, saving all carriage
fares, and, for those who desire to spend a day or week in shopping or visiting the
thousand objects of art and interest, a most central, desirable, and convenient location,
being- only two minutes' walk from all the great

Retail Stores, Theatres, Objects of Interest and Places of Amusement. -<
Guests arriving by the Boston & Albany have only to cross the street Those arriviiv;
by the Old Colony and Fall River, New York & New England, or Providence and Ston
ington Lines, will have about three minutes' walk. Those arriving by the Noithern aivo
Eastern Lines can take carriage, or horse-cars marked " Boston &• Albany and Old Colony ?
which pass all Stations and the Hotel every five minutes.
According t o Size,
Regular Transient Charges will be,
Location, and
for full Day's Board
.
.
$3.50 and
Convenience, and
whether occuRoouis only
1.00 "
pied by one or more
persons.
Single Meals
.75
Foi Special Rates, full particulars will be given, with maps, circulars, etc., on appli
cation to

{

TILLY HAYNES, United States Hotel, BOSTON.

BLACKSTONE
CIGARS.
THE

LEADING

CIGAR

IN

AMERICA,

Twelve millions (12,000,000) sold during 1890.
Each Original Blackstone is stamped

WAITT &

BOND.

This Cigar is Hand
Havana

filler,

Made,

has a fine

clear

and Sumatra wrapper.

The same can also be said of our
BLACK STONE, except t h a t it

has

a

W . &. B .

domestic

wrap-

per.

For Sale on all trains in the W h i t e Mountains.

WAITT

So BOHSTD,

MlAISrXJir,^VCrJ?XJR,E:RS,

Jftoston.

WHITE MOUNTAINS.

Chisholm's

WHITE*MOUNTAIN
GUIDE-BOOK

M. F. SWEETSER,
AUTHOR OF " T I C K N O R ' S AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS," " CHISHOLM's MOUNTDESERT G U I D E , " ETC , ETC , ETC

Chisholm Brothers
_ ^ C PORTLAND. 2 ^ _

C O P Y R I G H T , 1880

AND

1887.

BY HUGH J. CHISHOLM.

PREFACE.
N honest endeavor is made, in these pages, to present a Guide-book to the White Mountains which
shall be inexpensive without being venal, treating
the great mountain-hotels and routes as effects, rather than
causes, and considering them more in the light of episodical
adjuncts than as the chief purposes of the tourist's excursion
into New Hampshire.

T h e main stress is laid on the natu-

ral scenery of the White Hills, and the romantic history and
legends connected therewith, in the belief that these are the
things which induce travellers to journey thitherward, rather
than even the very creditable works of constructive and
gastronomic art which may be found there during the tour.
An attempt has also been made to clear the text from the
encumberment of figures and lists, by grouping at the end
tables of the distances from the chief hotels and resorts to
the objects of interest in their vicinity; lists of the hotels
and boarding-houses, with the extent of their accommodations, and their prices; and tables of the altitudes of the
various mountains, lakes, villages, and hotels.

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Summer Hotels and Boarding-Houses, and Prices .
Distances from Villages to Places of Interest
. .
Altitudes
Adams, Mount
. 57, 73 Fryeburg
. 22, 119, 132
Alpine Cascades . . 1 1 3 Garnet Pools . . .
62
Alton Bay,
Georgianna Falls . . 82
107, 18, 114, 131, 139, 99 Glen-Ellis Falls . . 63
Arethusa Falls
. . 45 Glen House,
Bartlett, 38, 134, 136, 139
60, 37, 133, 140, 59
Basin, The .
. . 82 Gorham, n o , 120,133,139
Beecher's Cascades . 43 Grand-Trunk Ry.
. 108
Belknap, Mount . . 107 Haverhill, 120,133,139,17
Bemis
. . . . 39 Hayes, M o u n t . . . 7 1 1
Benton Range . . .
91 Holderness . .
86, 12©
Berlin Falls,
International Line
18
. 33, 37, 121
113, U S , 131, 139 Intervale
Introduction . . .
5
Bethel .
108, 115, 131
Bethlehem . 66, 131, 139 Jackson Falls,
34, 37, 121, 133, 139
Bird's-Eye View . . 8-9 T
. 52
Black Mountain . . 91 Jacob's Ladder
Boston & Lowell R . R . 92 Jefferson Hill,
71, 121, 133, 139
Boston&MaineR R.12,16
. 56
Bridgton, 25, 27, 116, 131 Jefferson, Mount
Kiarsarge . . . .
32
Bridgton and Saco
Lafayette, Mount
80
River R . R . . . . 27
93, 132, 133
Campton, 86, 89, 116, 131 Laconia .
Lake Village
93, 122
Carriage Road, Mt.
Washington . . .
58 Lancaster, 74,122,133,139
Cannon Mountain . 79 Lead-Mine Bridge . n o
Carrigain, M o u n t . . 38 Littleton,
70 95, 123, 134, 139
Cathedral Woods . 31, 37
Lonesome Lake . . 79
Centre Harbor,
Lowe's Path . . .
73
104, 100, 117, 132, 139
Cherry Mountain. . 73 Madison, Mount . . 57
M a n c h e s t e r . . . . 93
Chocorua . . . .
26
8-9
Clay, Mount . . .
56 Map
Clinton, Mount . . 46 Maplewood,67,95,124,140
Concord
93 Middle Mountain. . 33
113, 124
Conway . 33, 31, 117, 132 Milan . . . .
Conway Junction . 15, 25 Moat Mountain . 30, 32
Moosilauke . . . .
90
Copple Crown . . . 102
Crawford, Abel . . 39 Morgan Mountain . 87
Moriah, Mount . . 1 1 2
Crawford House . 42, 41
Crawford Path . . .
46 Mount-Adams Path . 73
Crystal Cascade . 62, 65 Mount Pleasant . 25, 46
Dalton . . .
71, 139 M o u n t - P l e a s a n t
House . . .
47, 124
Eastern
Division
B. & M. R . R . . . 12 Mount Washington . 52
M o u n t-Washington
Echo Lake . . . .
77
Railway . . . . 51
Emerald Pool . . .
62
. . 38
Fabyan House, 47, 42, 95 Nancy's Brook
. 94, 125, 134
Fall-River Line . . 10 Newbuiy
North Conway,
Flume House, 81,140,132
28, 23, 27, 125, 134, 13.9
Flume, T h e . . . .
82
Franconia . 68, 119, 132 North Woodstock, 89, 126
88
Franconia Mountains, 76 Osceola, Mount .
Frankenstein . . .
40 Ossipee . . 2 6 , 126, 139
Copyright, 1880, by H U G H J.

. . . .

pages 114-130
131-136
137-140
Ossipee Park . . . 105
Pemigewasset, Mt. . • 82
Pemigewasset - Valley
R.R. . . . . 8 4 , 8 8
Pilot Mountains . . 74
Pleasant, Mount . 25, 46
Plymouth, 85, 94, 126, 135
Pool, T h e . . . .
82
Portland . . . . 15, 18
Portland & Ogdensburg R . R . . . 2 1 , 36
Presidential Range .
5
Profile, The
. . .
77
Profile House . . .
76
Prospect, Mount . 75, 86
Randolph H i l l . 112, 126
Red H i l l .
. . . 104
Ripley Falls . . .
45
Sandwich Dome . . 88
Sebago Lake, 22, 23, 127
Silver Cascade
„ . 45
Silver Lake . . . .
27
Songo River . . .
24
Squam Lake . . . 1 0 5
Starr King, Mount . 73
Stonington Line . . 10
Sugar Hill . .
69, 127
Sugar Loaf . . . .
91
Thornton . 89, 128, 139
Tuckerman's Ravine, 64
Tunnel Falls . . _ . 82
Twin-Mountain
House . 49, 95, 128, 140
Walker's Falls . . .
79
Warren, 90, 94, 128, 136
Washington, M o u n t . 52
Waterville,
87, 129, 136, 139
Weetamo, M o u n t . . 87
Weirs, 106, 93, 100, 129
Welch Mountain . . 87
Wells River
. . . 94
West Campton,
89, 129
West Ossipee .
26, 129
Whitefield . . 71, 129
White-Mt. Notch . . 36
White Mountains. .
5
Willard, Mount . . 42
Willey House . . . 45
Willey, Mount
. . 45
Winnepesaukee
Lake . 96, 18, 25 , 9 3
Wolfeboro . 25, 100, 1 3 0
Woodstock . .
89, 1 3 0

CHISHOLM.

INTRODUCTORY.

H E White Mountains of New Hampshire cover an
area of about thirteen hundred square miles, between the Maine border and the Connecticut Valley,
the Androscoggin, Upper Ammonoosuc Valley, and the basin
of Lake Winnepesaukee.

T h e central chain of mountains,

sometimes called the Great Range, or the Presidential Range,
is thirteen miles long, extending from Mount Madison to
Mount Webster in a direction of south-south-west, and culminating in the lofty peak of Mount Washington.

The

group carries snow through nearly half the year, and on
account of this circumstance received the name of the
Mountains

White

from the early settlers along the New-England

coast more than two centuries ago.

Several leagues to the

south-west are the Franconia Mountains, and various other
groups and ranges are found in all directions.

The almost

infinite variety of scenery in this region constitutes its great
charm, and gives it a perennial interest, even to those who
have seen loftier and more famous mountajn-lands.

Scores

of thousands of tourists enter this district every summer,
coming from all parts of the Republic, and even from beyond
seas, and each finding here that which can please and benefit.
5

6

INTROD

UCTOR Y.>

There is a marvellous variety of colors, the differing rockformations of the peaks giving rich contrasts of browns and
grays, blacks, whites, and reds, around which the all-pervading green of the forests sweeps like a vast undulating
sea.
There are several first-class railroads traversing the valleys
of the White-Mountain region, and a few well-served stagelines, bringing all the principal points within easy reach, and
yet leaving hundreds of miles of remoter roads to be explored by private conveyance or on foot. A dozen first-class
hotels and scores of boarding-houses of various grades are
adequate to the accommodation of many thousand guests.
The season begins feebly in June; grows more lively all
through July; and is at its height in August, when nearly
all the public houses are full and overflowing. In September
and October the " city folks" return to their homes beside
the paved streets, invigorated and refreshed by their visit to
the highlands, and feeling the pulsings of a new life in their
veins.

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER

I.

The Routes from New York and the West to the White Mountains. —
The Sound Lines. — The Lines by Rail. — From Saratoga to
the Mountains. — From Montreal and Quebec to the White
Mountains
CHAPTER

II.

The Routes from Boston to Portland. — The Boston and Maine
Railroad (Eastern Division). — The Boston and Maine Railroad.— The.Route by Sea. — Portland
CHAPTER

.

.

.

28

V.

The White-Mountain Notch. — The Wonderful Maine Cential Railroad, from North Conway to Fabyans. — The Crawford House. —
The Fabyan House. — The Twin-Mountain House .
CHAPTER

21

IV. .

North Conway and its Attractions.—Jackson Falls .
CHAPTER

12

III.

The Route from Portland to the White Mountains. — Fiyeburg.—
Sebago Lake. — The Eastern Raihoad to North Conway ,
.
CHAPTER

9

36

VI.

Mount Washington.—The Mountain Railway.—The Summit.—
The View. — Mounts Clay^ Jefferson, Adams, and Madison
.
7

51

8

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER

VII.

The Glen House. — The Mount-Washington Carriage-Road. — The
Waterfalls and Ravines near the Glen House
.
.
.
.
CHAPTER

58

VIII.

The Villages of the Western Valleys. — Bethlehem. — Franconia. —
Sugar Hill. — Littleton. — Whitefield. —Jefferson
.
.
. 6 6
CHAPTER

IX.

The Profile House and its Surroundings. — The Franconia Mountains.— Mount Lafayette.—The Flume House .
. . .
CHAPTER

X.

Plymouth. — Campton and Waterville. — The Pemigewasset Valley. — Moosilauke
CHAPTER

92

XII.

Lake Winnepesaukee and its Surroundings. — Wolfeborough and
Centre Harbor. — Squam Lake. — The Routes by the Boston
and Maine Railroad and by its Eastern Division
CHAPTER

85

XL

The Western Avenue. — The Route from Boston to Lowell, Concord,
and Lancaster, and the West Side of the Mountains
CHAPTER

76

96

XIII.

Bethel. — Shelburne. — Gorham. — Berlin Falls. — The Route from
Portland to the Northern Side of the Mountains
.
=
.

108

WHITE-MOUNTAIN GUIDE-BOOK,

CHAPTER

I.

T H E ROUTES FROM N E W YORK AND T H E WEST TO T H E
MOUNTAINS. — T H E

SOUND LINES. — T H E

LINES

BY

WHITE
RAIL.—

FROM SARATOGA TO T H E MOUNTAINS. — FROM MONTREAL AND
QUEBEC TO T H E W H I T E MOUNTAINS.

T H E SOUND L I N E S

I E A V I N G New York at late afternoon, and traversing the thronged channels about the American
metropolis, by fortresses and iron-clad frigates,
vast fleets of merchant-vessels and hundreds of
passenger-boats, the great steamers of the Sound lines glide
through the busy scene like floating castles, giving fascinating panoramas of the crowded and uneasy shores, groaning
with their million and a half of inhabitants. Out through
the boiling currents of Hell Gate, past islands unhappily
known in New York's municipal annals, and at last the
shores on either side draw away from each other, as twilight
comes down, and the great vessel plows her way out into
the famous commercial highway of Long-Island Sound.
T h e Norwich-line steamers reach their port of New London very early in the morning; and travellers can take the
express-train to Boston, arriving in time to catch the morning
9

IO

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

trains to Portland, North Conway, or Fabyans. Train from
Norwich connects with White-Mountain express over the
Boston and Maine at Worcester.
T h e Stonington-line boats reach their port at early dawn,
and meet express-trains for Boston by the Shore Line, avoiding the passage around Point Judith, and reaching the capital
of Massachusetts quite early in the morning, or connecting
with the White-Mountain express at Providence.
T h e Fall-River steamers, the " Puritan," " Pilgrim," and
" Providence," are more elegant than the Norwich boats,
and give opportunity for a longer night's r e s t ; but have the
slight disadvantage (in rough weather) of a few miles' run
on the open sea, rounding Point Judith, and entering Narragansett Bay. From Fall River trains run to Boston in
one and a quarter hours, connecting with all the northern
routes;, and also a train runs by Framingham to Lowell,
where it meets the morning train up to Fabyans and Bethlehem.
T H E LAND R O U T E S .

Passengers from New York may reach Boston by night
trains on the Shore Line, the Air Line, or the Springfield
route, in time to take the morning trains to the mountains
or Portland. ^Bhese routes are somewhat more expensive
than the Sound lines, and are also quicker.
There are also both day and night trains from New York
to the mountains by Springfield, Worcester, Nashua, and
Concord.
Trains on the New-York and New-England Railroad connect also at morning, at Putnam, Conn., with the WhiteMountain express northward by Worcester, Nashua, and
Concord.
T h e most direct route from New York, however, is that
which runs through New Haven and Hartford to Springfield, and thence continues northward up the Connecticut
Valley, reaching Fabyans in about twelve hours from N e w
York, without change of cars.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

II

Sometimes travellers go directly from New York to Portland, by the regular steamships ; and then go into the mountains by the short line of the Maine Central Railroad. This
route gives a pleasant sea-voyage, as a preliminary to a complete change of air and scene.
T H E ROUTES THROUGH VERMONT AND CANADA.

Of routes northward from New York, up the Hudson Valley and across Vermont, there are a great variety, whose
changing details may be learned from the metropolitan newspapers.
From Saratoga and other points on that line, the usual
route is across Southern Vermont to Rutland and Bellows
Falls, and up the Connecticut Valley.
Points farther north in the Champlain region are connected
with the mountains by the St. Johnsbury and Lake Champlain Railroad, from Maquam Bay, and across Northern
Vermont.
Montreal sends her mountain-tourists down the Canadian
Pacific Railway and the Passumpsic Line, directly to the
heart of the White flills, in a few hours. T h e Grand Trunk
Railway also carries many tourists from Montreal and Quebec to Gorham, at the foot of the Presidential R a n g e ; or,
at Groveton Junction, connects with the lines on the west
side of ahe mountains.

CHAPTER

II.

T H E ROUTES FROM BOSTON TO P O R T L A N D . — T H E EASTERN RAIL'
ROAD AND ITS C I T I E S . — T H E BOSTON AND MAINE RAILROAD.
— THE ROUTE BY SEA. — PORTLAND.

T H E W A Y OF T H E COAST.
The Boston and Maine Railroad—Eastern
Station on Cattseway Street,

Division
Boston.

(108

miles).

|f?*5V>U|USHING out from the crowded terminal station in
N PisE! Boston, the train crosses the broad Charles River,
| | J | 3 j j 8 and swings in a half-circle several miles long
around the populous heights of Charlestown,
through numerous suburban villages, and over a network of
other railroads. Beyond Chelsea and the lofty Massachusetts Soldiers' Home, the engine settles to work, and
flies over the broad and salty expanse of the Lynn marshes,
with the hotels of Revere Beach and the rocky bluffs of
Nahant close at hand on the East, and the bold hills and
white villages of Saugus on the other side. Lynn rises on
the edge of the marshes, with its forty thousand inhabitants,
who make twelve million pairs of shoes a year, and are the
chief workmen in the leading industry of Massachusetts.
T h e imposing lines of brick buildings which form the central part of the city are flanked by miles of wooden houses,
bounded at last by High Rock, commemorating Moll Pitcher
and the Hutchinsons, and Dungeon Rock, where mild-mannered fanatics cut through the solid porphyritic ledges for
thirty years, in vain quest for concealed treasures.
Next comes Swampscott, where Miss Culture delights to
12

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

13

muse during the summer, in satisfactory juxtaposition with
the venerated and exceedingly estimable>descendants of the
Puritans. Long Branch is to New York, or Brighton to
London, very much what this strand is to Boston, although
the Massachiisee resort is much the most accessible in point
of time. A bit of sea appears on the right, and a few of the
smaller villas and cottages; and the green hills hide the
mossy old streets of Marblehead, farther out on the
point.
Salem is the next stopping-place, and the train pauses
long enough in the great dark hall of its granite and castellated station to allow a throng of appropriately sombre and
stately memories to re-visit the mind. T h e mother-city of
Massachusetts ; granted in 1627 to knights and gentlemen of
England, and " called Salem from the peace which they had
and hoped in i t ; " where the sweet Lady Arabella Johnson
died; where Roger Williams preached, and Winthrop administered justice, and the Bradstreets and the Endicotts dwelt;
the scene of the terrible witchcraft persecution in 1692 ; the
hornet's nest of privateers during our wars with Britain;
the chief mart, for many years, of the American trade with
the E a s t I n d i e s ; and the birthplace of Israel Putnam the
soldier, Timothy Pickering the statesman, Bowditch the navigator, Peirce the mathematician, and Prescott the historian.
Here Hawthorne also was born, and dwelt for many years;
and here, too, lived George Peabody, whose honored remains
lie in the cemetery near by, while his bequests enrich the
city with rare collections and institutions. There are perhaps
twenty-eight thousand inhabitants here, fluctuating socially
around the venerable East-India aristocrats, and living a
quiet and industrious life. It would be no great loss to miss
a train here, and thereby gain time to see the antiquarian
treasures of Plummer Hall, the Old Witch House, the oldest
church building north of Florida, the priceless collections df
the Peabody Institute, the curiosities in the East-India
Marine Hall, the custom-house where Hawthorne was a

14

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

clerk, and the bright harbor, now empty of Calcutta and
Madras keels.
Out through the long dark Salem Tunnel, not devoid of
osculatory suggestions to E s s e x maidens, and across North
River, with the harbor and the sea on the starboard, and
then the train enters Beverly, famous for shoes, and the
point of departure for the line of track which winds about
the rocky hills of Cape Ann, to Gloucester and Pigeon Cove.
Next come names which were once great, but are now
eclipsed even by the Denvers and Santa Fds of the F a r
West, — Wenham, which an English tourist called " a delicious p a r a d i s e " about the time that Murillo and Claude
Lorraine died, and before Voltaire and Sam Johnson were
b o r n ; Hamilton, where the vivacious Gail Hamilton dwells;
Ipswich, a venerable Puritan hamlet, on ground which Capt.
John Smith reconnoitred in 1614; and Rowley, settled two
hundred and forty years ago by a nomadic church from
Rowley in old Yorkshire.
Over the wide marshes which stretch to the yellow sanddunes of Plum Island the train flies apace, and soon enters
charming old Newburyport, which Joseph Cook eulogizes as
" the sea-blown city at the mouth of the Merrimac." Nowhere are there lovelier drives, quainter old colonial houses,
more drowsy streets, more amusing legends, or such myriads
of venerable trees overarching all the sidewalks. On one
side is the lofty and picturesque Chain Bridge, with Laurel
Castle, where Sir Edward Thornton has spent so many seasons ; and Hawkswood, where Julia Fletcher used to live;
on another is Ben : Perley Poore's Indian Hill mansion, the
Abbotsford of New E n g l a n d ; and on another is the home
of John G. Whittier, the good old poet of the Merrimac
Valley, whose harp is ever attuned to lofty Christian melodies. Newburyport has been called home by John Quincy
Adams, Caleb Cushing, John B. Gough, and Harriet Prescott Spofford; it has been visited by Louis Philippe, Talleyrand, Lafayette, Washington, Longfellow, Thoreau, and

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

15

scores of old-time worthies; Garrison was born here, and
Whitefield is buried in one of the ancient churches.
Now the train sweeps across the high bridge over the
Merrimac, with the ocean on the right, fronted by the fading
old city, and on the left the swelling outline of P o Hill, over
Whittier's home. For twenty miles it traverses thick forests
and open salt meadows, with ancient hamlets on one side and
the broken shores of Hampton and Rye, dotted with summer-hotels and cottages, on the other. Another brick and
wood cavern ingulfs the track at Portsmouth, the only seaport of New Hampshire, and one of the quaintest and most
interesting of the seaboard cities. Among these shadowy
and tranquil streets the Wentworths and the Langdons
dwelt; and here were born James T . Fields, Mrs. Partington Shillaber, and the Bad Boy, Thomas Bailey Aldrich, not
to mention Commodore Parrott of artillery fame, or Bishop
Parker, or Sir John Wentworth. About nine thousand
people live here, and double that number of legends and
traditions.
T h e vigilant traveller who looks out on the right-hand side
of the train, as it crosses the bridge over the Piscataqua,
will see the great ship-houses of the United-States Navy
Yard at Kittery, near the old domains and crumbling tombs
of the Pepperells and Sparhawks; and perchance the steamboat running out towards the Isles of Shoals, which lie ten
miles out to sea. At Conway Junction the train for the
White Mountains direct swings off to the left; and the
Portland train passes on, by the stations of Wells and
Kennebunk, and then through the twin-cities of Biddeford
and Saco, between which it crosses the wide Saco River,
which we shall see again in its very cradle. A half-hour
more, across the quiet townships of York County, and the
many-wheeled procession, Pullman, smoker, coach, and truck,
rattles across Fore River bridge, and enters fair Portland,
the metropolis of Maine.

l6

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

T H E W A Y OF T H E H I L L S AND B E A C H E S .

The Boston and Maine Railroad— Western Division.
Haymarket Square, Boston.

Station on

T h e train runs across several Boston streets, and then
emerges into broader horizons in crossing the Charles River,
between Charlestown and Cambridge, reaching terra firma
at Somerville, near that dark hill on which the Ursuline
Convent was burned by an angry mob. Beyond the Mystic
River, the college-crowned heights of Medford are seen;
and then come the pretty suburban villages of Wyoming
and Melrose. Now and then bright lakes diversify the landscape, and craggy hills, half-tamed, roll away on either hand.
Wakefield, with its group of stately buildings, commemorates the founder of the rattan-working industry; and Reading, with its rolling sienite hills and many shoe-shops, comes
next to the north, followed by the peaty plains of Wilmington, where the first and eldest Baldwin apple-tree is still
shown with great local pride.
Andover next appears, the school of the prophets of the
old State Church of Massachusetts, where the venerable halls
of the Theological Seminary rise on a beautiful hill, surrounded by wide grassy areas and long lines of tall trees, under
which the divinity-students of Congregationalism walk as
gravely as the robed Roman scholars of the De Propaganda
Fide do under the evergreen oaks of the Villa Borghese.
Here Stuart, Phelps, Park, and Woods have trained the
spiritual athletes of Puritanism to noble service in all lands,
from the rationalistic cities of Eastern New England and
the bovine faith of the hill-towns to the most distant and
perilous enterprises of Chinese and African missions. T e n
years ago I stood by a group of fine school-buildings at
Brechin, in old Scotland, and was told that the hill which
sloped down thence to the South E s k was called Andover
Hill, because the schools had been built and endowed by
two citizens of Andover, in Massachusetts. T h e same gentlemen (natives of the Scottish town) also erected a stately

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

17

stone library-building for the Andover Seminary, and entitled it Brechin Hall.
The scenery of Andover is very
pleasing, along the vales of the Shawshine River, and the
sunset view from Andover HilTis widely famous for its rare
beauty.
T h e next city to come into view is Lawrence, which
commemorates the name of Abbott Lawrence, a munificent
Boston merchant, and long-time Minister to England. Although but forty years old, Lawrence has thirty thousand
inhabitants, and is the most beautiful of the manufacturing
cities of New England, with stately public buildings and
hundreds of thousands of humming spindles. H e r e are the
enormous Pacific Mills, among the largest in the world, and
producing enough cheap cloths to drape a small continent.
F o r half an hour the line follows the bright Merrimac
River, full of picturesque beauty, and rich in history and
legend; and then crosses from Bradford to Haverhill, on a
substantial bridge. Here, practically, is the head of navigation on the Merrimac, eighteen miles from the sea, and the
houses of the city are aligned on hills which rise gracefully
from the stream. John G. Whittier was born here, in 1807,
and has written many charming verses about the surrounding
lakes and the river. Again and again the infant settlement
of Haverhill was assailed by French soldiers and Indian
warriors, two centuries ago, and scores of its people were
slain or carried into fatal captivity; but the Saxons held
fast, and now no more peaceful and happy community exists
than the shoe-making city of Haverhill.
Leaving the Merrimac Valley the train soon enters New
Hampshire, and rushes without pause across several farming towns, to Exeter, the famous academy-village, where so
many illustrious scholars and statesmen have received their
early education. T h e next station of importance is Dover,
the most ancient settlement in the State, and now a busy
little factory-city at the falls of the Cocheco. From this
station a train runs across a picturesque farming country

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WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

for an hour and a half, to Alton, on Lake Winnepesaukee.
At Rollinsford, just beyond Dover, the White-Mountain
train leaves the main line, and at Great Falls joins the train
for the White Mountains from the Eastern Division.
Not far beyond Dover, the Portland train approaches the
sea, and runs through Wells, Kennebunk, Biddeford, and
Saco, near their famous beaches. At Old Orchard the line
lies between the hotels and the surf.
A short run from this point, and the train enters Portland.
FROM BOSTON TO P O R T L A N D .
The

Way of the

Sea.

Towards evening the great white steamships of the Portland Line, and at early morning the International steamers,
leave their piers at Boston, and hold their stately course down
the harbor, towering high over the yachts and the dainty
steamboats of the Bay fleet, and winding between the fortified islands, until they pass out through Broad Sound into the
open sea. T h e route is laid not far off shore, along the
famous coasts of Essex and past the white hotels of a score
of beach-resorts, — Swampscott, Marblehead, Manchester,
Magnolia, —until the tall twin light-houses on Thacher's
Island are rounded, and then the wide Gulf of Maine is
crossed, well off the New-Hampshire beaches, and not far
from the Isles of Shoals and the solitary Boone Island. At
last the Cape-Elizabeth light is passed, and the picturesque
harbor of Portland comes into view.
PORTLAND.

One of the most beautiful and enterprising of the maritime cities of New England is Portland, the metropolis of
Maine, and the point of departure for Mount Desert, Moosehead Lake, and the Rangeley Lakes, as well as for the White
Mountains. It has about thirty-five thousand inhabitants,
and glories in the possession of several imposing public
buildings, a city-hall of Nova-Scotia sandstone, a post-office

OBSEKVATION CAKRUN ON ALL THROUGH TRAINS BETWEEN PORTLAND AND WHITE MOUNTAIN?

20

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

of Vermont marble, and a custom-house of Maine granite,
besides two cathedrals, and a great number of churches.
T h e harbor is a deep-watered nook of the beautiful Casco
Bay, heavily fortified in the old-fashioned manner, with
high walls of masonry, sustaining scores of black guns.
Throughout the summer steamboats run through these
holiday waters, bearing merry excursionists to the park-like
. islands and their hotels ; and swift trains connect the city
with the adjacent southern beaches, Scarborough, Old Orchard, and the rest.
On the main street of Portland, where it crosses Munjoy's Hill, stands a tall observatory, from which one can
enjoy a view over the ocean and Casco Bay, and also see
the grand panorama of the White Mountains, serrating the
whole north-western horizon. T h i s vision of sublimity is
enough to allure the summer-voyager even from the breezy
coast of Portland, and cause him to set his face toward the
region of the North-west Wind, Keewaydin.

CHAPTER III.
THE

ROUTE

FROM

PORTLAND

FRYEBURG. — SEBAGO
NORTH

TO

THE

LAKE. — T H E

WHITE
EASTERN

MOUNTAINS. —
RAILROAD

TO

CONWAY.

FROM PORTLAND TO T H E W H I T E MOUNTAINS.
By the Maine

Central

Railroad.

i H E R E was something heroic in the temper of the
| men who planned the Portland and Ogdensburg
Railroad, resolving that the fair little Forest City
should be joined to the great Western lakes by
bands of steel, although two great mountain-ranges and
many formidable rivers lay between. From their resolution
this long line has come into existence, breaking down all
natural obstacles, and sparing no outlay of treasure to broaden the famous commercial route. Incidentally (though
mainly, for our purpose) the line developed new areas of
aesthetic pleasure, and made easy the way for thousands of
pilgrims of sentiment. So that one can now pass from Portland to the very gate and threshold of the White Mountains
in three brief hours, and in as much more time can traverse
their wonderful gorges, and emerge in the Connecticut Valley. Of all the railroads which approach the mountains,
this is the only one which carries them by storm, and penetrates their deepest recesses, and with the invincible power
and calm security of modern scientific engineering. This
21

I

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

route was built by the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad
Company, and operated by them with success until recently,
when it became a part of the gfeat system of the Maine
Central Railroad, extending from the Connecticut Valley
eastward to the frontiers of Canada.
The indomitable
engineer who drove the line through the mountains is John
F . Anderson.
It is but little more than half an hour, through quiet old
farming towns, and by several white hamlets, until the train
reaches the shore of Sebago Lake, the beautiful sheet of
water which lies between the highlands and the plains, and
mirrors the distant peaks in its clear and translucent tide.
One of the fairest episodes of the journey is that in which
the train speeds along the shores of Sebago, by glittering
sandy beaches and embowered points, with the clear expanse
of the waters stretching far away beyond. Then ensues a
short run over the dreary watershed, and the line descends
into the valley by Steep Falls, and meets the bright stream
of the Saco, the mountain-born river. Shaggy highlands are
seen on either side, as, from time to time, there occur breaks
in the woods ; and the clustering villages of the plains are
succeeded by half-wild forest-hamlets. Beyond W e s t Baldwin, in looking across the river, one may see the stately old
Wadsworth mansion, where the poet Longfellow spent many
a happy vacation in the home of his grandfather; and a little
way beyond are the Great Falls of the Saco, which may be
seen from the train, as they dash in white masses of foam
over the high black ledges. Soon the rugged ridge of
Mount Cutler is rounded, and the pretty village of Hiram
Bridge appears, in the glen to the right of the track.
Fryeburg hides its beauties behind deep groves, as the
train draws up to the station, and the uninstructed traveller
would hardly imagine the tranquil delights of this Queen of
the Saco Valley, with its vast areas of richest meadows, its
sweetly sinuous river, and its deeply shaded streets, bordered by dignified old colonial houses. There are very

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

23

pleasant drives throughout all this region, by which one may
reach the luxurious hotel on Mount Pleasant, the eastern
vidette of the White Mountains; or enjoy the diversified
charms of the Kezar P o n d s ; or cross the emerald intervales
to North Conway, under the very shadows of the mountains.
Close to the village is Jockey Cap, a huge pile of granite
from which the western peaks are seen in panoramic line;
and just beyond is Lovevvell's Pond, commemorating the
valiant captain who led thirty-four Massachusetts rangers to
this shore, in 1725, and fought with the Pequawket Indians
here all day long, until Lovewell and his chaplain and nearly
all his men were killed or wounded. Soon afterwards the
Indians abandoned their village, and Fryeburg was founded.
Daniel Webster taught the village academy for awhile; and
Gov. Lincoln, while living here, wrote a long semi-didactic
poem, " T h e Village."
T h e summit of Stark's Hill, close to Fryeburg, has recently been cleared, and affords a magnificent view of the
mountains and the great Saco Plain. T h e new summerresort of Highland Park, several miles out, is now attracting some attention; and the entire Fryeburg region gains
more and more favor each season.
As the train advances from Fryeburg, and swings from
curve to curve over the Saco meadows, the prospect varies
continually, and the house-crowned cone of Kearsarge, the
long red ledges of Moat Mountain, and the splendid white
crest of Chocorua, rush into view. At last a passage opens
ahead, between the bristling Green Hills and Moat Mountain, and the line runs through a dreary bit of woodland, to
the station at North Conway.
LAKE SEBAGO.

As the train goes, by the way of the Maine Central Railroad, Sebago is seventeen miles from Portland, and fortythree miles from North Conway. T h e steamboat departs

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

from the railroad-station, and makes the tour of all the lakes,
and then returns, the distance up and back being sixty-eight
miles*
Sebago is twelve miles long and nine miles wide, with a
greatest depth of four hundred feet, and waters purer than
those of any other New-England lake. Its shores are low,
with graceful ridges rising beyond, and the White-Mountain
chain frequently appearing in the blue distance; while but
a few islands break the broad expanse of water. On the
east shore is Windham, settled by men of Marblehead, and
the birthplace of John A. Andrew; and Raymond, where
Nathaniel Hawthorne spent some of his earlier years, often
rowing out on the lake, while the solemn stillness and shadowy gloom of the forests deepened the sombre spirit which
Puritan Salem had given him.
At the head of Sebago, after an hour's sail, the steamer
runs between brushwood jetties, and enters the Songo River,
a quaintly errant stream which flows six miles to pass between points two and a half miles apart, often so near the
banks that the boughs brush the decks. Longfellow himself
has used the pen which honored the Rhine and the Arno to
write laughing verses about this corkscrew river. After
ascending to the level of the upper lakes, by a canal-lock,
the vessel sweeps out into the Bay of Naples, near the
hamlet of Naples. Dudley W a r n e r says that all harbors are
likened to the Neapolitan Bay, " and I am sure the passing
traveller can stand it, if the Bay of Naples can." Now in
ancient times this sheet of water was called Brandy Pond,
and when Neal Dow banished alcoholic spirits from the
State, the people hereabouts took this as their best approach
to the Parthenopian Gulf, and named it the Bay of Naples.
This classic water is left by passing through a draw-bridge,
and the gallant bark steams boldly out on Long Pond, an
uncivilized Yankee Windermere thirteen miles long and not
more than half a league wide. One may go on to the head,
at Harrison; or stop at N o r t h Bridgton, a pretty lakeside

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK,

hamlet near the mountain-glen where Artemus Ward was
b o r n ; or pause midway at Bridgton Landing, and ride a
mile to the brisk highland village of Bridgton, with its beautiful drives and lakes, its woollen-mills and canning-factories.
Mount Pleasant is ten miles from Bridgton, by a stage-line,
and seven miles from Fryeburg. It consists of a long wall
of wooded heights about two thousand feet high, with a road
leading to the top of one of the middle peaks, up a long and
shallow ravine. T h e hotel on this summit is a spacious twostory building, open for ten weeks in the season. T h e
view is very beautiful and extensive, either on the west,
where the ancient and paradisiac plains of Pequawket
are overlooked by Chocorua, Osceola, Moat, Kiarsarge,
and the lofty Presidential R a n g e ; or on the southeast, where Portland's spires appear over Sebago's broad
bosom. A new narrow-gauge railroad runs from Bridgton
Junction, on the Maine Central Railroad, to Bridgton, sixteen miles distant, giving an easy mode of access to the
region of Mount Pleasant and the towns beyond.
THE BOSTON & MAINE R.R. ROUTE TO NORTH CONWAY.

There is a point called Conway Junction, sixty-seven miles
from Boston, where a branch line diverges from the main
stem of the Eastern Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad, and starts up the valley of the Salmon-Falls River, at
Great Falls connecting with the train from the Western
Division of the same road. Beyond the humming and
rumbling mills at Salmon Falls and Great Falls, the train
swings along cheerily over the Norway plains, and pauses
at Rochester, a dull and prosperous town of six thousand
inhabitants, with broad and regular streets, and spacious
ecclesiastical and educational buildings. T h e next station
is Milton, near some picturesque ponds and hill-scenery;
followed by Union, about which, I believe, there is nothing interesting. At Wolfeborough Junction the track for

26

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

Wolfeborough may be seen diverging to the left, to reach
the Winnepesaukee shores in eleven miles. After this
come numerous stations in the indefinitely prolonged town
of Wakefield, whose beautiful lakes, crystal-clear and hillguarded, suffice to draw hither several hundred city-folks
every season. Wakefield is succeeded by Ossipee, another
town of generous distances and many stations, one of which
is at the capital of Carroll County; and another stands at
the road which leads to the famous and never-visited Green
Mountain in Effingham, near the Maine frontier.
The
Ossipee Mountains, low and woody, now crowd the track-,
and after passing them by, and crossing the Bearcamp River,
the train slows up at W e s t Ossipee. This smallest of the
highland hamlets was for many years known as the favorite mountain-resort of John G. Whittier, several of whose
poems are connected with this valley. There are beautiful
views, from W e s t Ossipee, of the great peaks of Chocorua,
Passaconaway, Paugus, Whiteface, and Sandwich Dome,
rising across the level plains of Tamworth as the Alban
Mountains rise over the Roman Campagna, and richly
spiritualized at each clear sunset. There are pleasant drives
from W e s t Ossipee, the easiest of which is one of four miles
to Ossipee Lake, a large oval sheet of transparent water
surrounded by gloomy heaths, and stocked with divers fish.
On the shore are the vestiges of an ancient fort, built by
Capt. Lovewell during his ill-fated foray in 1725, and afterwards sadly abandoned. Harriet Martineau likened Ossipee
Lake to the wildest parts of Norway, whereat the land of the
Northmen may not feel unduly proud. About seven miles
north of W e s t Ossipee, by a fair, level road which traverses
the venerable hamlet of Tamworth Iron-Works (whose ironworks have not been run since before the W a r of 1812), is
Chocorua Lake, a lovely mountain-tarn at the foot of Mount
Chocorua, a mile long, and domineered over by the customary
hotel. Chocorua is ascended by a path which leaves Hammond's farm-road three miles from the Lake House, and

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

27

rises over a splendid line of rocky ridges and spires to the
apex of the gallant peak, 3,540 feet above the sea. From
W e s t Ossipee, also, stages run daily through South Tamworth and Moultonborough Corner to Centre Harbor, eighteen miles distant on Lake Winnepesaukee, giving a series
of brilliant views of mountain-scenery.
Beyond this interesting W e s t Ossipee, the train rapidly
approaches Chocorua, and presently runs for a long distance
on the shore of that pretty sheet of water, with curving
sandy beaches, and a lone islet, whose platitudinous modern
name of Silver Lake is hardly better than the homely old
Six-Mile Pond which it supplanted. Certain it is that the
grandest view of Chocorua is obtained from the eastern
shore of this spacious lake.
Beyond Madison the line is elbowed off to the eastward
by the gloomy and irredeemable foot-hills of Chocorua,
until it crosses the Swift River, and enters the famous
meadows of Conway, along which it finds an easy course
up to North Conway.
T H E BRIDGTON AND SACO-RIVER

RAILROAD

Is a new route, with small but very comfortable cars, and a
two-foot gauge, connecting with the picturesque Maine Central line at Bridgton Junction, and running sixteen miles
north-east to Bridgton, where it connects with stages for
North Bridgton, Waterford, Paris, Sweden, etc. T h e route
leads through a wild and rugged country, with frequent
views of the mountains on either side, and of the clear
waters of Barker Lake and Hancock Lake. I t was opened
in 1883.

CHAPTER

IV.

N O R T H CONWAY AND ITS A T T R A C T I O N S . — J A C K S O N
NORTH

\

FALLS.

CONWAY.

V I L L A G E of perhaps eight hundred inhabitants,
four churches, an academy, and three or four broad
and rural streets, hardly pleasing the visitor at
first glance, and yet showing such groups and lines
of hotels that it is manifest that thousands of tourists come
hither every season, — such is North Conway in its material
aspect. It stands on a terrace in the great alcove which
the Saco Valley makes in the long mountain-wall, like some
rather ugly piece of ware placed on the shelf of a bric-a-brac
cabinet, and carefully preserved for the sake of its happy
associations. Let us confess in the beginning, that the
inhabitants lack metropolitan conveniences (except their
valuable new water-works) and taxes, and that the sunniest,
summer days are far from chilly, and then let us add, that,
nevertheless, no rural resort in New England has such devoted partisans and ardent admirers, no village in the mountain region has refreshed and renewed so many thousands
of weary citizens.
Bethlehem has cooler air; Jefferson, grander views; the
Fabyan plateau, wilder surroundings; and Newbury, fairer
meadows : yet somehow the fascination which North Conway exerts surpasses that of any other, and is peculiar to
this locality. For three-quarters of a century the tide of
summer-travel has been swelling, until it requires two firstclass railroads for its accommodation, and many hotels of
28

M O U N T W A S H I N G T O N , FROM T H E M A I N E C E N T R A L R A I L R O A D .

NORTH CONWAY, N. H.
The largest and best appointed hotel in North Conway. Firstclass in every respect. Commanding the finest view of the
whole White Mountain range, combined with the charming intervale scenery for whicli North Conway is famous. Excellent
livery, charming drives, perfect drainage and unexceptionable
table and service. Situated within 500 feet of North Conway
Station of Boston & Maine R. R., and three minutes from Maine
Central Station from which free stage connects with all trains.
Also steam heat, open fire-places, electric lights, first-class
barber shop, telegraph and post office.

Now Open, Under New Management.
FOR TERMS ADDRESS

< POBTBB

&

TATLOR

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

29

various classes for harbors of repose. There are those who
have visited this village every season for a quarter of a century, and who return with contrition after each infidelity of
a detour to Bethel, or Campton, or even Bethlehem. How
can we better account for the peculiar charm of the place
than in saying that there is in its landscapes more of staying
power, more of the indelible, than is found elsewhere, and
that scenes so lovely, remembered so faithfully, cannot lose
their attraction ?

MOUNT

KEARSARGE.

What, then, are the elements of this landscape, at once
so varied and so charming, — this panorama, whose mere
memory draws thousands of visitors every year from distant
cities of the Republic? Imprimis, then, a broad shelf, the
former terrace of an ancient lake, perhaps, but now occupied by many-windowed hotels and great buildings of the
genus which the Swiss happily call pensions, but which we
grimly confuse with urban abominations, under the name

30

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

of boarding-hotises; shops, here and there, for the sale of
country supplies and exotic luxuries ; churches, including
the usual little ultra-Gothic Episcopal" chapel which appears
at every conspicuous watering-place; and railroad-stations,
one of which looks Byzantine enough for a Russian guardhouse, or a dome of the Kremlin. This populous shelf projects from the sides of the Green Hills, — a range of shaggy
and confused mountlets which run almost to the Maine
borders, and show occasional bare crests, bearing queer
rustic names, and accessible by Arcadian woodland paths.
At their end, and proudly conspicuous from the village, is
the tall dark pyramid of Mount Kiarsarge, towering very
nobly into the blue sky, and forming an infinite variety of
combinations with the clouds, the mist, and the lights of
morning and of sunset. On the opposite side is that which
was for many decades the distinctive charm of North Conway,— the broad, level, fertile meadow of the Saco, dotted
with exquisite elms, and crossed by a waving band of groves,
under which the bright Saco River dashes and ripples. In
a few years more, when the Vandalic railroad embankments
are covered with swaying grass up to the tracks, this beauty
shall perchance return. Beyond the emerald plain rises the
chief feature of the Conwegian l a n d s c a p e , — t h e long, massive, serrated ridge of Moat Mountain, which was burnt
over in the year of the Crimean War, and still reflects the
sunlight from vast bare ledges of reddish rock. Running
from the glens of Bartlett to the Swift River, near Chocorua,
this Titanic rampart enwalls the Conway vale like the mountains about the Happy Valley of Rasselas, or, as some one
has said, like the sentry-ground of angelic guards, protecting the peaceful plains below. But Kiarsarge on one side,
Moat on the other, grand as they are, are but the framework for a still more magnificent picture, where the northern
sky is filled with the great peaks of the Presidential Range,
mounting upward to the commanding crest of Mount Washington, and clothed upon with the idealizing beauty "of dis-

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

31

tance and of dream." Therewith infinite combinations may
be formed, as they are seen through the arches of the
Cathedral Woods, or over the blown grass of the intervales;
or under the swaying elm-branches, or above the pebbly bed
of the Saco, or even beside the satin parasol of Miss Irene
Macgillicuddy.
Another peculiar charm of North Conway is found in the
great variety of excursions in the vicinity, whether by road,
by railroad, or by the paths which thread the neighboring
forests. All summer long merry parties are bowling over
the roads to Fryeburg, Walker's Pond, Conway, Kiarsarge
Village, Jackson, and Bartlett, professedly in search of lakes,
ledges, and waterfalls, yet by no means forgetting social joys,
of varying intensities. Nor do the livery horses have opportunity to forget the Ridge Road, the Dundee Road, or
the famous Thorn-Hill drive, — excursions which reveal new
combinations of mountains and glens. But the favorite drive
leads across the intervales, to the singular cliffs at the foot
of Moat Mountain, the White-Horse and Cathedral Ledges,
and to Echo Lake. T h e famous White-Mountain Mineral
Spring is a short drive to the southward, near ancient
Conway and the huge Washington Bowlder. T h e elegant
Kearsarge House is the chief hotel at North Conway.
They who " seek adventure in the salvage woode " may
find many paths tempting their willing feet, from the halfhour's stroll to Artist's Falls, — that tiny forest-gem, — and
the neighboring groves which shelter the granite-curbed
waters of the Forest-Glen Mineral Spring, to the arduous
journey to Province Pond, surrounded by leagues of unbroken wilderness. Christ Church is almost over-arched
by the lofty pines of the Cathedral Woods, down whose
odorous aisles Doris and Phyllis ramble for hours, apparently in such seclusion as Eden once knew, yet so
bounded by highways and railroads that they cannot lose
themselves.
T h e mountain-climber may clamber — or even ride — up

32

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

the ascending league of bridle-path which conducts to the
nobly uplifted granite crown of Mount Kiarsarge, and thence
look out on a prospect which stirred the hearts of Starr
King and Theodore Parker, and many thousand lesser men
and women. The vale of Conway, the remote peaks of Carrigain, Moosilauke, and Lafayette, the ravine-torn Presidential
Range, the lowlands of Maine, and the open sea by Portland,
all come into the field of vision, with myriads of other recognizable points, peaks, villages, and lakes, diversifying the
vast landscape.

DIANA'S BATHS, NORTH CONWAY

Or if a wilder and more remote excursion is desired, there
is a new path which leads from the beautiful water-scenery
of Diana's Baths up to the crest of Moat Mountain, and
from thence along the great ridge, giving sweet and charming prospects over the valley below and for many a league
over the apparent levels of Western Maine. The highest

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

peak is six and a half miles from the Kearsarge House, half
of which is by carriage-road, and of the rest half is nearly
level, and the remainder ascending. There is also a short
and steep path leading from the further shore of Echo Lake
to the crest of the White-Horse L e d g e , — a unique excursion, and one as yet rarely taken.
Still another trip of this kind leads to the top of Middle
Mountain, by a pleasant and well-marked path, one and threefourths miles long, from the Artist's Falls House. Thence
we may see the great northern peaks, the remote crest of
Lafayette, Fryeburg village, and Sebago Lake, and the
superb red spire of Chocorua.
How shall we pause to describe, at three lines to each,
the beauties of Buttermilk Hollow, the sequestered glens
of Sligo and Jericho, the favorite rambles on the intervales,
the fascinating view from Sunset Hill — near John McMillan's ancient hostelry — the costly villas beyond the Cathedral Woods, the quiet beauty of the scenery about the great
Intervale House, or the cool hill-tops of Kiarsarge Village,
with their group of quiet boarding-houses ? Southward the
old stage-road runs, in five miles, to Conway, — the ancient
Chatauque, or Chateaugay, — where the spacious Conway
House attests the popular favor which has long attended this
quiet and attractive hamlet, Northward the road traverses
the Intervale suburb, really the most charming part of North
Conway, and advances, in about four miles, to Lower Bartlett, where a group of summer-houses clusters about the
western base of Mount Kearsarge. At Intervale Station,
two miles above North Conway and directly upon the border
of Cathedral Woods, is a group of the finest villas in the
mountain-region, surrounding a colony of hotels. Here is
the Intervale House, one of the largest and best appointed of
White Mountain hostelries. Its environment holds delightful views over meadow and mountain.
Another advantage which North Conway justly claims is
found in its accessibility from the great cities of the coast,

34

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

and in the ease with which mountain-excursions in all direction may be made, by the aid of its railroads. There are but
few points in the White Hills that may not be reached in a
single day's trip from North Conway, by going up on the
morning trains, and dining out, it may be at the Profile House,
or on the top of Mount Washington, or at the Glen House.
Great numbers of tourists go through the Notch to the Crawford and Fabyan Houses, and return on the afternoon trains.
So that North Conway, although geographically at one side,
is made a central point in the White Hills by virtue of its
perfect system of communications.
JACKSON F A L L S .

About nine miles from North Conway, and less than four
miles from the line of the Maine Central Railroad at Glen
Station, is a beautiful and secluded glen, crossed by the
Pinkham-Notch road and the sparkling Ellis River, and
enwalled on all sides by dark-green mountains and rockyfaced peaks. Near its centre is a small cluster of farmhouses, three spacious boarding-houses, a country store, and
a dignified little rural church. This hamlet dates back more
than a hundred years, and bears the modest name of Jackson
City. In summer-time, indeed, the title is not so far wrong,
for then the population is largely augmented, and includes
bishops, professors, bankers, and all the urban species, with
even a larger representation of the ladies of those grades.
There is excellent trout-fishing in the neighboring brooks,
to beguile paterfamilias into the clothes-wrecking brook-side
adventures of a truant school-boy; and the edict of London
against croquet has not yet been promulgated on these lawns.
Between the two chief boarding-houses, the Ellis River
flows rapidly; and from its embowered bridge, one may see
the Jackson Falls, a few rods above, and a very pleasing
spectacle in times of high water. Farther up the stream are
many bits of rare landscape beauty, which are found out every
season by the distinguished artists who visit and sketch in

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

35

this vicinity. Down stream, about a mile and a half from
the hamlet, are the Goodrich Falls, which were grand enough
to repay a long journey, before the saw-mills impaired their
beauty. T h e Winni*weta Falls are about three miles from
Jackson, and are sufficiently seldom visited.
T h e favorite points of attack for the alpestrians who visit
this lovely glen are the far-viewing T h o r n Mountain, whose
summit is reached by a farm-road two and a half miles long
and a path half a mile long; the twin domes of Double-Head,
about four miles distant on the Dundee r o a d ; the massive
Iron Mountain, largely composed of iron-ore, and a little
over three miles distant; and the vast terraces of Giant's
Stairs, about five miles away, and on the main range. T h e
drives lead to the Cook farm, the Fernald farm, Prospect
farm, and other famous points which look into the ravines of
Mount W a s h i n g t o n ; and from the head of the valley there
is a good Appalachian path into the wild desolation and
boulder-strewn chaos of the Carter Notch.
The scenery of the Ellis glen is sweet and pastoral, and
the view of Moat Mountain from the village is famous for
its delicate and ethereal beauty. T h e glen is seven hundred
and fifty-nine feet above the sea, and is seldom chilly in
summer. Every year sees a larger constituency of visitors
at this ideal mountain-hamlet; and Jackson is rapidly attaining a deserved prominence among the favorite resorts of the
White Hills.
T h e beautiful Wentworth Hall, with its quaint QueenAnne cottages, is the chief summer-hotel here, and is presided over by Gen. M. C. Wentworth. Just across the
rushing river is the famous old Jackson-Falls House
(Trickey's), greatly renovated and enlarged in 1886. T h e
other hotels are the handsome new Iron-Mountain House
(Meserve's); Gray's Inn, with its fine views; and the GlenEllis House ; together with several summer boarding-houses

C H A P T E R V.
THE

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

ROAD, FROM

NORTH

NOTCH. — T H E

MAINE

CENTRAL

CONWAY TO FABYANS. — T H E

RAILCRAW-

FORD H O U S E . — T H E FABYAN H O U S E . — T H E TWIN-MOUNTAIN
HOUSE.
FROM NORTH CONWAY THROUGH T H E

NOTCH.

IN all Eastern America there is no other episode of
railroad travelling comparable for grandeur with
the famous route, of the Maine Central line
through the White-Mountain Notch. T h e Hoosac-Tunnel route through the Berkshire Hills, the Pennsylvania Railroad between Altoona and Cresson Springs,
and the Baltimore and Ohio Line along the Cheat-River
mountains, exhibit passages of great landscape beauty and
g r a n d e u r ; but neither of them can compare with the sustained and increasing interest of this route, whose conception was one of the most daring thoughts which ever
entered the mind of man. T h e mountain-spirits smiled
grimly at the bright little theodolites which were borne
breathlessly up towards their fastnesses ; but when the axe,
the pick, and the powder-barrel followed, and vast lanes were
opened through the forests and cliffs, and the steam-song
shrilled along the ridges, the gnomes fled away, and allowed
their ancient home to become a suburb of Portland. At a»y
rate, the bears did, for they abandoned the Notch en masse,
and lay down with (and outside of) the sheep of the more
distant and less noisy townships.
36

T H E Q-BEAT CUT, W H I T E MOUNTAIN NOTCH.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

37

As the train swings out from the North-Conway station,
we see that it is partly composed of observation-cars, with
open and windowless sides, over which rain-shedding awnings
are triced up, while revolving arm-chairs occupy the floor.
, It is a ride of twenty-seven miles, or not far from an hour
and a half, up to the Crawford H o u s e ; and the Duchess
of Brookline and Lady Murray-Hill settle themselves in
becoming attitudes, while the American sovereigns of the
male line unfold fresh newspapers and take out their cigarcases. The wiser travellers, those who have been forewarned by good guide-books, find seats on the right-hand
side of the cars, and bide their time.
T h e processional through the Cathedral Woods is cadenced by the reverberations from the solemn depths of
the forest; and the incense which rolls away among the
groined arches of the pines is evolved from no Arabian
spices, but from the black carbon of Pennsylvania. In a few
minutes the pretty summer-hamlet at the Intervale is passed,
and the wide green meadows open away on the left, overhung by tall cliffs, and garlanded with deep-toned groves.
Ever and anon new peaks come into view, now the giants
which tower over Jackson, and now the trackless and formidable ridges beyond Bartlett. T h e stream which flows
by the track is the Ellis River, which since sunrise has
descended from the snow-banks in Tuckerman's Ravine, and
now is hurrying away toward Old Orchard Beach.
Glen Station is soon reached, with its platform bordered
by Glen-House and Jackson stages, whose horses still retain vivid memories of Spruce Hill and the long slopes of
the Pinkham Notch. The lovely mountain-hamlet of Jackson is about three miles away, and the Glen House is twelve
miles further, through the high Pinkham Notch. As the
train rushes onward, the valley grows narrower and more
wild, with the rounding dome of Iron Mountain rising on
the right, and a glimpse of the vast treads of Giant's Stairs.
On the other side are the ponderous mountain-ranges which

$8

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

enwall the glen of Albany, and are traversed only by bears
and lumbermen.
Upper Bartlett is the next station, and the comfortable old
country inn of Frank George is seen on the right, before a
background of mountains. Here the Waltonian disciples
come, to pursue trout in : Sawyer's River and the Saco, and
in the numerous clear streamlets and forest-bound ponds
which abound in the vicinity. This is also the strategic
point from which attacks are made on the lonely Mount
Carrigain, the great watch-tower of the wilderness, whose
dark peak is visible from the station-platform, over the track
ahead. T h e venerable writer of these lines went to the top
of Carrigain, five years ago, at the cost of three days'
marching through pathless woods, and three nights of sleeping under the stars ; but now the climber can reach the foot
of the mountain by a new railroad, and get to the top by an
Appalachian path. So that Carrigain is no longer the Ultima
Thiile of our alpine clubs, and sharp eyes may find on the
path hair-pins, as well as beer-bottles.
Beyond Upper Bartlett the laboring train soon begins to
climb the ridges of Duck-Pond Mountain, wheeling from
westward to northward, and unfolding new groups of highland peaks. After Sawyer's River is crossed, and the new
lumber-railroad is thrown off, on the left, our line crosses
Nancy's Brook, with its pretty cascades an,d flume, flowing
down that solemn mountain which a learned Latinist of
Harvard once christened Mount Amoris-gelu^ " t h e Frost
of Love." Nancy's story is familiar to all New-Englanders,
from its manifold narrations, in every book in the literature
of the hills, from the quaint old histories of Crawford and
Willey, and the Ruskinian periods of Starr King, down to
the most arid and venal of the Cadmian brood of papercovered guide-books ; yet we must tell it once more, for the
benefit of the tourist from Ilfracombe or Kalamazoo. Wellnigh a century, then, has passed since poor Nancy was
betrothed to a farmer of Jefferson, a base fellow indeed,

WHITE-MOUNTAIN-

GUIDE-BOOK.

39

who deserted her on the eve of their journey to be married,
and hastened away towards Portsmouth. As night approached, a terrible winter-storm set i n ; but the dauntless
girl started after her runaway lover, hoping to find him
encamped in the Notch. There was not even a road, and
she struggled on in the darkness atnd the snow, fording the
rushing streams, and bruised by the rocks, until at last the
fiery heart was chilled into peace by the pitiless gale, and
she sank down by the side of the brook, where her body was
found not long afterward, encrusted with snow, and with her
head resting on her staff. Devotion, betrayal, heroism,
death — it needs but the pen of a Hawthorne or a Scott to
make these lean outlines throb with bewitching life. T h e
adulatory ink which treats of polite officials and gentlemanly
landlords flows far too feebly to effect such transfigurations.
Now the train enters the Crawford Glen, by the manygabled mansion where dwelt Dr. Bemis, whose earlier life
was spent in Boston, and his later decades in this grand
valley, which he owned and enjoyed until his death in 1882.
Just beyond is the ancient (and now closed) Mount-Crawford
House, where Abel Crawford opened his forest-tavern, eighty
years ago, and where he dwelt until he was eighty-five years
old, the patriarch of the mountains, the hearty, happy
pioneer of hundreds of Bonifaces of all moods. Not even
Tyndall nor Whymper could describe this valley so delightfully as did old Timothy Dwight, the President of Yale
College, nearly a hundred years since, in his quaint scholastic
language : " Here the mountains assumed the form of an
immense amphitheatre; elliptical in its figure; from twelve
to fifteen miles in length; from two to four in breadth ; and
crowned with summits of vast height and amazing grandeur."
From this point lead the faint and almost-forgotten trails
which ascend Mount Crawford and Mount ^Resolution, the
vast peaks which tower on the farther side of the Glen,
tempting the advance of the adventurous explorer.
From Bemis Station the train climbs upward on a grade

40

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK,

of one foot in forty-six, rushing through wilder wildernesses,
and clinging to the sides of the great cliffs. T h e music of
the Arethusa Falls may almost be heard, as its stream is
crossed, a mile below; and then the lofty Frankenstein Cliff
appears ahead. Just before the trestle is reached, the vigilant traveller who looks forward on the right will get one of
the grandest possible views of Mount Washington, up the

T H E WILLEY VALLEY, LOOKING N O R T H ;

long valley of Dry River, with the great peak nobly and
suitably enframed between its high southern spurs. This
prospect has long been famed for its sublimity, and the only
regret is that one cannot have more time to enjoy it. While
running on to the trestle, the great cliffs above should be
observed, and also the profound depths of the Saco Valley,
sweeping away on the right. T h e deep Frankenstein Gulf

T H E W I L L E Y BROOK B R I D G E , M A I N E C E N T K A I U. E .

(Face p .

43.)

m mmmmm
5 0 0 ROOMS,
SINCLAIR & MANN,
BOSTON.
Chas. A. Sinclair.

Geo.

G. Mann,

Q N E of the best conducted hotels in New England, under new management, and noted for its excellence and elaborate appointments,
*««* &avmg been refurnished throughout. Strangers, business men and tourists will find it to their advantage to make T H E QUINCY their
headquarters while m Boston.
T H E QUINCY is situated in the very heart of the city, two minutes' walk from Faneuil Hall, and is near all principal points of interest, uorsei cars pass the door to depots and all parts of the city. The proprietors pride themselves in the reputation of the cuisine and
table, which is the best in New England, everything beirg served on the most liberal scale.
THE QUINCY is the only hotel in Boston running its elevator all night. Mail collected and delivered at hotel, every hour from 6 a.m.'
until midnight, a special service liaving been inaugurated by the proprietors, entirely independent of government delivery, affording quick
service for all guests of the hotel.
J
r *
»
J
F
B
J»
BH
T H E QUINCY HOUSE C A F E is noted for its English mutton chops, Welsh rarebits, and broiled live lobsters.
THE
QUINCY is the only hotel in Boston running its own carriages, and the fare to and from all depots and steamboats is only 25 cts.
Parties coming to Boston can write in .advance or telegraph and have carriages meet them at the depot.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

41

is crossed on a wonderful trestle of iron, five hundred feet
long and eighty feet high, whereat all vigilant travellers must
gaze, by craning out of the car-windows. Still the track
rises, perceptibly, and the trees in the Saco Valley are so far
below that their tops present the semblance of a green
carpet. Across this vast bowl are famous mountains,—
Crawford, with its pointed reddish p e a k ; the Giant's Stairs,
showing forth their etymology; Mount Willey, a very noble
needle of rock, rising sharply from the woods; and many
another picturesque summit. As the train crosses the Brook
Kedron, a charming little picture of forest and mountainstream is presented, contrasting with the broader scenes
beyond. Presently the green carpet of the valley is broken
by the white Willey House, far below, and the true Notch is
entered, with Mount Willard's purple cliffs in front, and the
avalanche-torn sides of Mount Webster on the right. It
must be remembered that the track is not straight, but
winds in and out around the sides of the ridges, giving prospective and retrospective views in rapid succession, and
with continual change. T h e Willey-Brook Bridge is one of
the marvels of this route, and spans a gorge far deeper and
wider than even the Frankenstein Gulf. T h e frowning ledges
of Mount Willard are now rounded, with the dark crevice of
the Devil's Den overhead; and on the right opens a view
of the great valley towards the Willey House, resembling in
kind (although less extensive) the famous prospect from
Mount Willard's summit. Below, in the valley, the dark
still waters of the Dismal Pool are seen, surrounded with
huge rocks and dense thickets. Narrower and narrower
grows the valley, and its floor seems ascending to meet the
track, until at last the Gate of the Notch is reached, and the
Great Cut, where the railroad splits into the mountain, just
beyond the glittering splendors of the Flume and Silver
Cascades, and the train emerges upon the plateau by the
Crawford House.
T h e train runs swiftly from the Crawford House to the

42

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

f
I
I
[
I

Fabyan House, a distance of four miles, on a down grade of
eighty feet to the mile, following a tributary of the Ammonoosuc. There are several impressive views of the White
Mountains from the latter part of this ride, the tall gray
peaks rising high over the intermediate and pathless forests.

\

There is no other public house within miles of the Notch,
and so it happens that tourists are obliged to sojourn at the
Crawford House. It is therefore very fortunate that this is
a good hotel of the first class, 1,900 feet above the sea, with
broad and almost interminable piazzas, cool and airy halls,
post-office, telegraph-office, livery-stable, bowling-alley, gaslights; environs which the landscape-gardener has justly approved; and a dining-room where even Epicurus or Uncle
Sam Ward need not famish. T h e fact that the present
writer has always paid for his dinners here (and elsewhere)
releases him from the obligation to enwreathe the names of
the hotel-keepers with optimistic adjectives, and so the tourist must e'en advance timorously to the test, without help
from the oracular precision (on this point) of the average
describer of summer-resorts. Let him not fear the result.
Near the front of the house is the pretty little Saco Lake,
the cradle of the Saco River, and so far widened and deepened by art as to give a reason for being for the boats which
float on its crystal tide. T h e rugged forest between the
lake and the overhanging mountain has been combed and
brushed and perfumed, and otherwise adorned for a summer
pleasaunce, so that it has won the happily suggestive name
of Idlewild.
Mount Willard is the chief feature of this neighborhood,
and, although a little mountain, only 670 feet higher than
the hotel, has won the enthusiastic praises of three such
varying types of men as Bayard Taylor, Starr King, and
Anthony Tro'llope. You may ride to its top, on an excellent
carriage-road, and look from the edge of the purple cliffs

T H E CRAWFORD H O U S E .

;
I
I
I;

\
;
I
i
;
[
;

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

down into the vast concavity of the Notch, filled with unbroken forests curving in graceful lines to the river, and
terminated by the sharp spire of Chocorua. In the other
direction is Mount Washington, in the centre of the Presidential Peaks. Probably Trollope was not far wrong, when
he said that nothing in all the classic Rhineland equalled the
view from this summit, down the Notch.
People who like flumes can be highly gratified on Mount
Willard, for it sustains the Butterwort Flume (which I
don't know much about) and the Hitchcock Flume, easily
reached by a path leaving the road a quarter of a mile below
the summit. It is a remarkable canon betwixt walls of
rock, 350 feet long, thirty to sixty feet deep, and in some
places not more than six feet wide.
Looking southward from the Crawford, one sees the Gate
of the Notch, with the adjacent slopes of Mounts Clinton
and Willard falling away toward it like magnified ramparts,
and cut off with sharp precision so that there might be
space for the infant river to jDass through. The Tenth
New-Hampshire Turnpike and the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad were later thoughts, and had to carve their
own ways. On the eastern side is the great rock of Elephant's Head, from whose top such a pleasing view is
gained, howbeit the way hither is a path only ten minutes
long from the hotel.
Beecher's Cascades commemorate the Brooklyn Boanerges,
who was very quickly and unceremoniously immersed in one
of their basins, by an unlucky slip on its margin. Half a
mile leads to their head, crossing the railroad alongside the
hotel, and soon reaching the dainty little stream, along
whose embowered banks a good path ascends, favored with
rustic seats here and there, and leading past a brilliant rosary of sparkling falls and deep pools, with strangely worn
ledges and cliffs, until the top of the last rocky mass is
reached, and on it a seat from which a line of distant mountains appears, through the long umbrageous vista. On the

44

WillTE-MOUX

T H E SILVER CASCADE,

/'AIN

GVIDE-BOOK.
opposite side of the
hotel—
umbilicus
montium et aguarum
— are Gibbs's Falls,
distant a few minutes
of brisk w a l k i n g ,
where one of the
b r o o k s from the
Presidential Range
tumbles whitely over
a ledge about as high
as thirty feet may indicate.
In an idle hour, it
may profit one to
saunter
down
through the Gate of
the Notch, and endeavor to find the
profiles with which
it is alleged that the
adjacent rocks are
alive. These allegations at least demo n s t r a t e that mountaineers are possessed of fecund imaginations. A little way
beyond, descending
the famous old Tenth
Turnpike, and the
Flume Cascade appears, - flashing over
the ledges on the left,
and then compressed
into a narrow rocky

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

45

flume at the bridge. A quarter of a mile further down is the
Silver Cascade, which descends a thousand feet in a single
mile of advance, now covering the steep ledges with a delicate
white veil, like Cluny lace, and now forming direct and narrow
falls, like marble pillars. Beautiful as this scene is after heavy
rains, at other seasons it mainly serves to demonstrate the
essentialness of water to a successful cascade. Some miles
below, and far secluded in the tangled forest on the west of
the railroad, are the splendid phenomena of the Ripley Falls
and the Arethusa Falls, the former reached by a good path
leading from Avalanche Station, and falling 108 feet, over
high and imposing cliffs — while the Arethusa Falls are 176
feet high, and form one of the most magnificent decorations
of the hill-country, but are so environed with pathless savagery that they are visited but rarely. In this direction,
also, and near the little flag-station at Moore's Brook, is the
path which leads upward for three miles, to the lonely crest
of Mount Willey, the watch-tower of the Pemigewasset wilderness.
T h e Willey House is three miles from the Crawford
House, down the Notch road, and consists of a low and
massive old wooden building, to which a rather unpleasant
modern structure has been added. T h e older house was
the favorite tavern in this region ninety years ago, where the
sturdy Coos farmers used to rest, .on their way to Portsmouth.
Late in August, 1826, occurred a terrible mountain-storm,
when the solid clouds themselves broke like water-spouts
against the hills, and hurled vast areas of field and forest
into the glens below. Such an avalanche roared downward
towards the Willey House, but was averted from it by a
huge rock, which caused the rushing slide to open right and
left around the house, and join below it. Providence had
thus well arranged; but the free will of Mr.;Samuel Willey
moved him to flee from the house, before the slide began,
together with his wife and five children, and two servants.
They were caught in the track of the avalanche, in the

46

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

frightful darkness of a stormy night, and not a soul escaped
to tell the story. T h e mangled bodies of six of the victims
were found by searching parties, but three of the children
were never recovered.
THE BRIDLE-PATH UP MOUNT WASHINGTON.

This grand old route starts right into the woods at the
Crawford House, and directly begins to climb the main
range. For a good pedestrian no better line of attack on
Mount Washington can be taken, and it can be accomplished in a short day, the distance being under ten miles.
Care should be taken lest fogs confuse and cause wandering,
for several travellers have been fatally lost from this path
under such circumstances. About three miles from the
Crawford, the path reaches the top of Mount Clinton, and
thereafter it lies along the crest-line of the range, above the
limit of trees, and with superb views on every side and
ahead. Clinton is 4,320 feet high; and it is nearly two miles
thence to the top of the splendid dark dome of Mount Pleasant, 4,764 feet high, covered with several acres of grass and
alpine flowers, and commanding an almost limitless view.
Somewhat less than a mile farther, where the path curves
around the profound chasm of Oakes's Gulf, is the top of
Mount Franklin, 4,904 feet h i g h ; and then the trail traverses the thin edge of the narrow ridge between Oakes's
Gulf and the Ammonoosuc Valley, with magnificent mountain-architecture on all sides, and approaches the very picturesque rocky peaks of Mount Monroe, 5,384 feet high, and
resembling some vast ruined castle, with crumbling towers,
and a deep gateway. Descending towards Mount Washington, the Lakes of the Clouds are soon passed, and the barren
plain of Boott's Spur sweeps away on the right, towards
Tuckerman's Ravine. T h e great cone of Washington now
fills the advance, and sharp and breathless is the climb
which leads to its crown 0

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

47

THE FABYAN HOUSE.

About four miles north of the Crawford House, on the
plain of the Ammonoosuc, stands the spacious building
of the Fabyan House, the focal point of travel on the west
side of the mountains. Five hundred guests can be accommodated at once in this great Dover Cliff of a caravansary;
and the varied charms of livery-stable, news-stand, billiardhall, bowling-alley, post-office and gasometer, are available for
the summer visitor, to say nothing of a parlor covering 3,500
square feet, and a dining-room with an area of nearly 6,000
square feet. T h e external architecture of the house is of
the simplest order; but the rooms within are high-studded
and airy, and the halls are wide and commodious. The
Fabyan is 1,571 feet above the sea, and affords a refuge
against hay-fever, that new recreation of the professional
and leisurely classes. Near by stands the modern and
luxurious Mount-Pleasant House, a comparatively new
establishment, where more than three hundred guests
can dwell at once; and the White-Mountain .House, which
dates back nearly forty years, to the mythic epoch of the
Rosebrooks. Let us allow the ancient hostelry to recall
those bygone days, when old Eleazar Rosebrook came
up frere from Massachusetts, in 1792, and implanted treedestroying civilization in this lonely glen. T h e n there was
a huge mound here, called the Giant's Grave (which the
builders of the Fabyan House laboriously shovelled away);
and Ethan Allen Crawford, Rosebrook's grandson, the paramount hunter and mountain-guide, opened a hotel by its
base, as early as 1803, and sheltered the scattering tourists
who came hitherward during the olympiads of Madison and
Monroe. T h r e e hotels were burned in succession, on this
site; and the mountaineers spread a tradition of a disembodied red-skinned Cassandra, who waved a torch on the
Giant's Grave at night, crying: " N o pale-face shall take
deep root h e r e ; this the Great Spirit whispered in my ear."

48

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

Nevertheless the Fabyan has stood for nearly a score of
years, and has not yet yielded to that mysterious dispensation which causes our summer-hotels to burn up just after
their last guests have departed, in the autumn.
Near the front of the hotel is the Fabyan Cottage, where
winter-travellers find refuge when Coos County is a mimic

MT. WASHINGTON, FROM TURNPIKE NEAR FARVANS,

Switzerland; and a little farther toward the mountains is
the marble monument which covers the tall frame of Ethan
Allen Crawford. Let us not forget the neat parlors and
offices in the Swiss villa opposite, used for the convenience
and information of tourists ; nor the pavilion near the hotel,
sacred to the pedagogic confabulations of the American
Institute of Education ; nor the Ammonoosuc Falls, about

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

a league out on the road to Mount Washington, foaming
and plunging in billowy masses over and between ledges
of polished granite; nor the Lower Ammonoosuc Falls,
valuable as showing how utter a ruin saw-dust utilitarianism
can make of the choice beauties of nature.
But all these things — nor even the railroad junction close
by — are not enough to account for such a great hotel in so
lonely a place. Behold then the true reason — the casus
cedificandi if you will, or perchance, even, the raison d?Hre
— in that grand panoramic line of mountains to the eastward, where Mount Clay supports from the north the vast
gray mass of Mount Washington (son of the iron age, see
the climbing mountain-railway, and the white hotel on the
crest!); while the southern peaks of the Presidential Range
stretch away to the right in stately line, ending with the
sharp downward slope of Mount Webster, at the Notch.
T h e air-line distance to these heights is from five to seven
miles, across the pathless forests which fill the great plateau
of the Ammonoosuc.
Let us not forbear to say that at this hotel is a railroad
junction, with tracks leading south to the Crawford House,
in 4 miles, and North Conway, in 29 miles ; west to the TwinMountain House, in 5 miles, Bethlehem Junction, 10 miles,
the Profile House, 19J miles, and Littleton, 21 miles; and
east to the summit of Mount Washington, in 9 miles.
THE TWIN-MOUNTAIN HOUSE.

T h i s is one of the neatest and cosiest of the great mountain-hotels, with a fai-famed cuisine, and an altitude which
is valuable as above the hay-fever line. T h e views therefrom are certainly not inspiring, and the surroundings lack
the jinterest which attaches to so many other localities in
this region; but pleasant drives may be enjoyed in several
directions, and many distinguished people may be seen on
the hotel-verandas. This house, with its guests, and the
miscellaneous thousands brought hither on Sunday excursion^

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trains,
for several years constituted the summer-parish
of Henry Ward Beecher, who
expounded broad-church
Congregationalism and Christian liberality to all who could
assemble in the great tent adjoining. T h e railroad-station
is across the river from the hotel, 5 miles from the Fabyan
House and 14^ miles from the Profile House.
T h e Twin Mountains lie to the south, across the Ammonoosuc glen, and only one of them is visible, that being the
North Twin, behind which the great range stretches away
for nearly eight miles, nearly midway between the Franconia
Mountains and the Field-Willey range. T h e South Twin is
succeeded by Mounts Bond and Guyot, on the same tall
ridge, the height of the peaks being from 4,700 to 5,000 feet.
They are not ascended once in ten years, being remote from
roads, and girdled by belts of almost impassable dwarfspruce. Mount Hale (which the hotel-people will tell you is
" t h e other T w i n " ) is finely seen from the Twin-Mountain
House, and heads the Little-River Mountains on the north,
commemorating, in its name, Edward Everett Hale, who was
a famous mountain-explorer before the isms and the olatries
claimed all his attention.

CHAPTER
MOUNT W A S H I N G T O N . — T H E

VI.

MOUNTAIN

RAILWAY. — T H E

SUM-

M I T . — T H E V I E W . — MOUNTS CLAY, JEFFERSON, ADAMS, AND
MADISON.

T H E MOUNT-WASHINGTON

RAILWAY.

S I X - M I L E branch of the railroad leads from
the Fabyan House to Mount Washington, by high
grades up the Ammonoosuc Valley. T h e r e it
connects with the mountain-railway, which ascends .to the
summit in about 3 miles, with an average grade of 1,300 feet
to the mile, and a maximum grade of 1,980 feet to the mile,
or one in three. T h e ascent is made in i j hour. The locomotives are queer-looking pieces of machinery, chunky and
ungainly, but of enormous p o w e r ; and perform their duty
by pushing the cars from below, or by retarding their descent
from the same relative position. T h e complicated brakes are
supplemented by a central rail, fitted with cogs, and played
into by cog-wheels on the locomotive, by which the train
slowly ratchets itself up the steep slopes. So perfect are
the safeguards, that no fatal accident has ever taken place
on these trains.
Sylvester Marsh of Littleton invented. this wonderful
piece of mechanism, and in 1858 ^received a charter for the
road, accompanied with much merry banter from the NewHampshire legislators. In 1866 the track was commenced,
and three years later it was successfully finished. T h e timetable begins on July 1.
51

52

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

At Ammonoosuc station the quaint little train starts
sharply upward, on a grade of one foot in three, through a
wide lane which has been cleared through the woods. T h e
second stop above this point is at W a u m b e k Junction, where
the engine takes water from a tank near the point where the
old Jefferson and Fabyan bridle-paths met. T h e foliage is
growing smaller and thinner, and finally ceases to obscure
the view, which includes vast and continually increasing
areas of New Hampshire and Vermont.
Jacob's Ladder is a long and massive trestle, over which
the train ascends slowly on its most formidable grade, 1,980
feet to the mile, and at times 30 feet above the rocks. Here
the tree-line is passed, and the area of sub-alpine vegetation
begins. Marvellous prospects open on all sides, and the
rocky humps of Mount Clay draw near, at the head of the
ravine called the Gulf of Mexico, and with the mysterious
depths of the Great Gulf opening on its further side towards
the Glen House. T h e air grows colder and colder, and the
August of the valleys becomes November on the heights.
In every direction nothing is seen but gray and frost-splintered rocks, with dull mosses and hardy alpine flowers. In
the last mile of track, from the Gulf Tank to the Summit
House, there is but 800 feet of rise; and soon after passing
Lizzie Bourne's monument the train reaches a level line on
the summit of Mount Washington.
T H E SUMMIT OF MOUNT W A S H I N G T O N .

There are higher peaks in the Carolinas and beyond the
great prairies, but no mountain in America has filled so large
a space in the popular vision as Mount Washington, — the
culminating point of New-England soil, the monarch of the
Northern Appalachians. Its temperature and botany are
those of Middle Greenland; and the varying phenomena of
frost-work, opening and closing clouds, sunrise and sunset,
shadows and storms, afford great resources for a college of
meteorology, and much interest even to the unscientific per-

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•CRAWFORD NOTCH AND SACO VALLEY, FROM ELEPHANT'S HEAD.

(Face p .

54.)

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

son who does not know an anemometer from a megatherium.
T h a t monumental work, the Geology of New Hampshire, says
also that this is to the botanist the most interesting locality
east of the Mississippi; and great store of tiny plants, with
polysyllabic and Alexandrine names, are found along the
slopes. All the upper part of the mountain consists of
ragged and angular fragments of mica-slate, broken by frost
and pitted by storms, verifying its description given over 200
years ago in Josselyn's New England Rarities
Discovered:
" T o outward appearance a rude heap of maffive ftones, and
you may as you afcend ftep from one ftone to another, as if
you were going up a pair of ftairs."
Mount Washington is 6,293 feet high, of more than \\
mile above the sea-level, an altitude which renders heavy
overcoats and shawls necessary even in August. There is
now quite a hamlet on its summit, which is visited by over
ten thousand people annually. T h e largest building is the
Summit House, a long three-story structure of wood, solidly
bound down to the ledges, and adequate to the accommodation of 150 guests. Two stories, steam-heated, are for sleeping-chambers : the lowest story contains parlors, a large
dining-room, telegraph and post offices, a bric-a-brac shop,
the clerk's throne, and, in the centre of the office, a large
stove, which usually draws within its permanent influence
most of the visitors to the summit. T h e old Tip-Top
House, a massive and low-browed stone building, is in the
rear, and also the new sanctum of the daily local paper,
Among the Clouds. Across the track is the baggage and
ticket office of the Glen-House stage-line. The engine-house
and turn-table of the railway are also near the hotel; and
the Glen-House stable is just below the cone. A plank-walk
leads from the Summit House to the observatory of the
United-States Signal Service, a tight little wooden house
about 36 feet long, on the south edge of the summit, and
commanding one of the very best of the views. Here a
picket-post of signal-corps men rerrained t h r f f v g V ^

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WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

several years, enduring the rigors of winter and the curious
tourists of summer with equal patience, and telegraphing to
Washington the approach of storms and the indications of
the heavens. The conspicuous amount of weather enjoyed
here during the cycle of the seasons would laugh to scorn
the ordinary lowland thermometers and wind-gauges; and so
a corrupt and fraudulent government equipped the observatory with multifarious instruments, whose names are as
complicated as their construction. It is these extraordinary
Latin things Avhich told the New-England farmers when to
gather in their frugal hay, and the New-England sailors when
to sail.
The Indians had many a quaint and interesting legend
about Mount Washington, culminating in the account of the
translation of their great chief Passaconaway, from the uppermost peak, in a flaming chariot. In 1632 a valiant Irishman
named Darby Field penetrated the wilderness from Portsmouth, guided by two Indians, and after many days' march,
gained the summit of Mount Washington, and carried back
a delightful account of his adventures, which stimulated the
colonists to make several other visits, soon afterwards. In
1784, the Rev. Dr. Manasseh Cutler, of Ipswich, and six
other gentlemen visited the summit, and it probably received
its name then. In 1821 Crawford built a stone cabin here ;
and in 1840 the first horse climbed up. T h e Summit House
dated from 1852 (removed in 1884). In 1870-71, Prof. Huntington and three companions passed the winter on the summit, which has since been occupied throughout the year.
T h e view-line from Mount Washington has a circumference of nearly a thousand miles, including points in live
States and in Canada. The clearest days are during the
prevalence of west or north-west winds, after heavy rainstorms.
Looking westward down the Ammonoosuc Valley, over the
white Fabyan House and Bethlehem, see the Green Mountains of Vermont; and still farther away, beyond the great

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

Champlain Valley, are several of the remote Adirondack
peaks. Farther north are Littleton, Jefferson, and Lancaster, the Connecticut River, the Green Mountains running
into Canada, and the near summits of Clay and Jefferson,
with the Pilot Hills and white Percy Peaks, and the vast
undulating wilderness of northern New Hampshire beyond.
Mount Adams is the gray crest so near, on the north, with
Madison alongside it, and over them the Androscoggin Val-

ley, and remote peaks along the national frontier. Lake
Umbagog, Aziscoos, Goose Eye, Blue, and many another
famous mount of Maine, rise over the Gorham valley; and
the site of the Glen House shows brightly at the foot
of the long Moriah-Carter range. Then the view passes
down the Ellis glens to the graceful Kiarsarge, over
North Conway and the Saco intervales, with Lake Sebago

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WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

and the hotel on Mount Pleasant on its left, and the ocean
off Portland. Further to the right Old Orchard Beach has
been seen, and the Isles of Shoals. T h e two rocky peaks
of Moat Mountain are on the right of the Saco meadows,
and under Silver Lake and Ossipee Lake, with the splendid
spire of Chocorua on the right, and the blue mass of the
Ossipee Range, alongside which flash the waters of Lake
Winnepesaukee. T o the right of the round dome of Passaconaway and the high cleft peak of Whiteface are the two
Uncanoonucs, near Manchester, and Wachuset, in central
Massachusetts ; and still more to the right are the faint blue
disk of Monadnock and the pyramid of Kearsarge. This
view is best gained from the signal station, whence one may
look down on the Lakes of the Clouds, and the lower peaks
of the Presidential Range, extending to the Notch, with
black Carrigain and high Osceola on their left, and sharp
Willey and Vermont's blue Ascutney on the right. A little
way further are the glorious serrated ridges of the Franconia
Range, the hotel-crowned Moosilauke, and the Killington
Peaks, near Rutland, nearly over the Ammonoosuc Valley
again.
T H E FOUR N O R T H E R N PEAKS.

Mount Clay adjoins Mount Washington, and is 5,553 feet
high, forming the head-wall of the Great Gulf. T h e r e are
three well-defined and finely-stratified hummocks or low rocky
knolls on the ridge, steep-sided, and separated by sedgy
hollows. These are the famous " humps of Clay," which
may easily be visited in a half-day, from the summit of
Mount Washington.
Mount Jefferson is north of Clay, and is 5,714 feet high,
with two neighboring peaks, and long spurs making out to
the west. One of these is the Castellated Ridge, whose
precipitous rock-piles, crested with turret-like ledges and
crumbling rocky towers, have the semblance of venerable
ruins of the feudal ages.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

57

Mount Adams is 5,794 feet high, or only about 500 feet
lower than Washington itself ; while as to shape and symmetry it yields precedence to none. T h e peak resembles a clearcut pyramid, rising freely from a rocky ridge, and flanked by
minor masses of rock. For the mountaineer it has a peculiar fascination, on account of its height, its form, its seclusion, and its magnificent views. T h e crest is composed of
a heap of fragments of frost-broken rock. T h e best way to
ascend this mountain is from Randolph, whence Lowe's
path leads upward in four miles.
Mount Madison is 5,365 feet high, and is the great domi-,
nator of the Androscoggin Valley, from which it appears in
the most beautiful forms and colors. It is indeed a very
graceful and symmetrical mountain, and would claim high
admiration but for the close vicinity of its greater brethren.
T h e crest consists of a narrow ridge of weather-beaten
rock 50 to 75 feet long, in the sub-alpine district, and braced
by long flanking ridges which descend to the deep valleys

CHAPTER VII.
T H E GLEN HOUSE. — T H E MOUNT-WASHINGTON CARRIAGE-ROAD.
— T H E WATERFALLS A N D RAVINES NEAR T H E GLEN HOUSE.
[ T h e new Glen House, built in 1885-87, and conducted by Charles R . Milliken,
is a very handsome building architecturally, and has every convenience and luxury
of modern life.J

T H E MOUNT-WASHINGTON CARRIAGE-ROAD.

| B | 3 | g j ] T A R T I N G out from the Glen House, across the
E S ^ S i l m e a d ° w s °f t n e Peabody, the adventurous climber
[E»11U3M soon enters the dark and luxuriant woods which
clothe the heavy eastern shoulder of the mountain,
and so fares upward along the firm white road for nearly four
miles, while the trees gradually dwindle until they become
hardly more than shrubbery, and at last disappear altogether,
leaving the mountain above the Half-Way House, four miles
up, almost entirely bare, except for the dead white trees
which cover considerable areas, and bear the name of buck'shorns, or bleached bones. A little way above is the Ledge,
or the Cape of Good Hope, where the road suddenly doubles
on itself, ever rising at a high grade, and revealing one of
the most awe-inspiring views of the profound and shadowy
depths of the Great Gulf, almost under foot, with the
splendid peaks of Jefferson, Adams, and Madison looming
high above, across the chasm. Downward, to the east, is
the long green wall of the Carter Range, at whose base is a
rectangular dot, in which the outlines of the Glen House
are recognizable. -The prospect continually varies, as higher
levels are gained, and as the road turns from side to side,
and faces now the south, and the Saco-Conway region, now
the east, and the rising peaks and silvery lakes of Western
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WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

59

Maine, and now the north, with dainty bits of distant landscape, plaided meadows and white villages, framed between
the great dark peaks so near at hand. T h e grandeur of mountain architecture is more evident from this route than from the
railroad, as the firm white.highway ascends by the five great
spurs to the eastward, looking down into the dark ravines,
and out along the little Labrador of the Alpine Garden.
On one side or the other, the topographical map of Northern
New England is continually outspread, basking in the vivid
sunshine, or dappled with deep cloud-shadows. At last the
panting horses, or the weary pedestrian, who has become all
knees and lungs, clamber up the final high grade, and reach
the top of the last cone, — the crest of Mount Washington.
T h e valleys toward the Androscoggin first meet the view,
as the slow ascent is m a d e ; and when higher grades come,
the Saco Valley and its tributary plains of Western Maine
are unrolled like a vast map. W h e n the ridge of Mount
Clay is overlooked, from the upper reaches of the road, the
Ammonoosuc Valley appears, on the west, opening away
towards the distant Connecticut River, and girt with rolling
highlands.
ROUTES TO T H E GLEN HOUSE.

T h e routes to the Glen House are three : by stage from
Gorham, 8 miles n o r t h ; or from Glen Station, 14 miles
south ; or from the summit of Mount Washington, 8J miles
south-west. Without doubt, the stages, horses, and drivers
of the Glen-House corps form the best establishment of
the kind this side of the Rocky Mountains, affording transportation at once swift, sure, and safe. The ride upward
from Glen Station, through Jackson City, and along the
ascending grades of the Pinkham Notch, is full of interest;
the mountain-road is altogether exciting; and the drive from
Gorham is more beautiful than either,— leading up long
glens, by the rushing stream, with the great mountains
coming out, one by one, to be seen and admired of every
clear eye.

6o

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

T H E GLEN H O U S E .

About two-thirds of the way from North Conway to Gorham, by the Pinkham-Notch road, stands the Glen House,
which ranks high among the mountain-hotels in the grandeur
of the view from its verandas, and is one of the first in respect
to the position of its guests. Let us also bluntly state a
conspicuous fact, somewhat alien in kind to the belles-lettres
of guide-books, in saying that the menu at the Glen House
is one of the best and most wholesome in New H a m p s h i r e ;
and also that the tables are waited on by polite collegestudents, competent to take orders in -the language of the
Horatian ode's, or of the sonnets of Petrarch, or of the
theses of Schleiermacher. This vast hotel, with its parlor
covering more than an acre, its copious and peculiar watersupply, its book-and-picture shop, telegraph and post-offices,
billiard and bowling-rooms, tennis-court, archery-lawn, and
furlongs of piazzas, is able to accommodate five hundred
guests at one time, and to satisfy them with aesthetic, social,
and gastronomic luxuries.
But even such a Sybaris would fail on the Lynn marshes
or the Newark meadows; and so the success of the Glen
House must be attributed to its peerless situation, vis-a-vis
with the five noblest peaks east of Colorado, separated from
them only by a narrow valley, and surrounded by many
choice bits of scenery in ravine, peak, and waterfall. These
things are sometimes casually alluded to by the summercorrespondence parasites ; but let us look upon them as the
reason for being of the Glen House.
T h e Glen, therefore, is an open square in the great street
of the eastern hills, bounded on the north by the approaching ridges of Mount Carter and Mount Madison, on the
south by Wild-Cat and Washington, on the east by the
tangled and inaccessible Carter Range, and on the west by
the great Presidential Range. It is 1,632 feet above the
sea, — a height which is well above the hay-fever line, and

WHITE-MOUNTAIN-

GUIDE-BOOK.

6l

within the domain of almost perpetual coolness, — with air
perfumed by the surrounding forests, and made musical by
the rushing streams, the sighing foliage, and the songs of
countless birds, not less than by the merry waltzes of the
hotel-band. Below the great inn are the verdant meadows
of the Peabody River, with dark forests beyond, and over
them the Great Gulf,-—a vast bowl-like ravine opening deep
into the heart of the Presidential Range, filled with curving forests and silent lakelets, and sheltering milliards of
speckled trout in the dark pools of its mountain streams.
(En passant, who that has visited the Glen House does not
remember the great salmocide, Josh Billings, deep-eyed and
hirsutely aureoled, and talking much of trout in language
which, even in its spoken form, reveals how preciously
distinct, subtle, and blessed its orthography must be?)
Across the Great Gulf, then, rises the crown of New England, — the five-pointed star which is visible from Monhegan
to the Adirondacks, and from Massachusetts to the St.-Lawrence Valley. Let us begin on the north, with the least and
lowest of the group, and observe the rugged crest of Mount
Madison, with its long slopes falling into the Androscoggin
Valley; and then the clear and shapely pyramid of Mount
Adams, cutting sharply into the blue sky, or repulsing the
gray mists from its iron-bound shoulders, and in some way
typifying the coldness and loftiness, the firmness and permanence, of the noble family from whose ancient head it
was named. Next, to the left, is the ponderous rocky peak
of Mount Jefferson, with the strength of Adams, but without its quality of fineness;, and sustained on the south by
the apparently low crags of Mount Clay, for which mountainclimbers have devised the name of " humps," as if the Sage
of Ashland was represented as a petrified dromedary. Mount
Washington is almost concealed by a huge foot-hill, almost
an Alp in itself, over which spur after spur of the sovereign
mountain is seen, falling away towards the eastern valleys,
with the ultimate peak visible over all, and crowned—not

62

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by a temple to Apollo, or to St.- Benedict, but — by the
favorite American shrine, a spacious white hotel. If this
prospect is not enough, you may climb Mount Wild-Cat,
behind the Glen, by a path an hour long, and look into the
ravines under the p e a k s ; or even take the new path up
Mount Madison, four miles long, and trample over all the
northern line of summits. Or, if you prefer figurines to
these colossal statues of the immortals, descend the old
Randolph road to Dolly Copp's, and see the Imp, carved in
profile on the Carter R a n g e ; or study the Garnet Pools, a
mile northward, on the Peabody River, where countless ages
of falling waters have whirled the rounding stones on the
submerged ledges, until they have worn deep circular basins,
brimming with translucent mountain dew; or clamber up to
Thompson's Falls, two miles to the southward, just off the
North-Conway road, where one of the brightest of brooks
falls down the steep side of Mount Wild-Cat, with infinite
play of white foam, roaring plunges, and deep dimpling
p^ools, stretching for a half-mile through the woods, and
from its summit looking into the heart of Tuckermari's
Ravine; or sit down by the Emerald Pool, close by, and see
the busy Peabody River, fresh from its dance among the
boulders and ledges, idling for a moment in a broad deep
basin, overhung by rich foliage, and reflecting delicious dark
colors from its shadowy .depths in the seclusion and tranquillity of the forest.
T H E CRYSTAL CASCADE.

T h e lover of Nature will find it profitable to go down the
North-Conway road for three miles, and then diverge to the
right, by a convenient guide-board, for a half-hour's stroll up
a woodland path, among grand old trees, mossy rocks, and
the sights and sounds that were once heard " eastward in
Eden," to the Crystal Cascade, the first-born daughter of
Mount Washington, where the stream which flows out of
Tuckerman's Ravine falls over a cliff of dark slate, 80

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

63

feet high, gracefully and merrily, filling the woods with the
voice of its going. There is a little rustic bridge below,
whereby one crosses to the right bank, and gains a vantageground of opposing cliff from which the whole sweep of the
fall is charmingly visible.

GLEN-ELLIS FALLS.

THE GLEN-ELLIS FALLS
are about a mile beyond'the Crystal Cascade, where another
friendly guide-board indicates the divergence of a path to
the left. These are the most beautiful and impressive falls
in the State, and have been ardently admired by poets and

64

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

painters and the rank and file of humanity for over half a
century. T h e name Glen Ellis has much prettiness; but
the ancient name, Pitcher Falls, was closely descriptive, and
might well have been retained. It is thus that the water is
gathered — the delicious frosty water from the Snow Arch
— as if by the contracting edges of a great rocky pitcher,
over which it pours in a solid and compressed column,
70 feet high, or twice the height of the Senate Hall at
Washington. T h e grooves in the side of the cliff give a
singular spiral twist to the water, and slightly deflect it from
a direct downward course. Above are lapsing rapids;
below, a deep dark pool gathering the white column of light,
and wreathed with prismatic m i s t s ; overhead are the rugged
slopes of Mount Wild-Cat; and all around are the forestarches. So much for the details of mensuration, with
which a volume of this kind must be content, leaving the
soul of the scene, the Arethusa spirit, to be interpreted by
Shelley and Coleridge, Bryant and Lowell, or the spark of
poetic fire which lingers in every heart.
TUCKERMAN'S RAVINE.

Cutting deep into the elephantine mass of Mount Washington, on its south-east side, and so marked a feature as to
be visible even in Portland, on a clear day, is this vast
gorge, which bears the name of one of the most honored
early explorers of the White Mountains. T h e abrupt
promontory of the Lion's Head, projecting from the Alpine
Garden, enwalls one side; and the rocky plateau of Boott's
Spur forms the other wall; while at the head is a line of
formidable cliffs, from which descends the so-called Fall of
a Thousand Streams. In the floor of this vast natural cathedral, paved with shattered rocks and perfumed by dwindling
shrubbery, are the two dark and silent Hermit Lakes ; and
the chancel is fitly furnished with the glittering tracery of
the Snow Arch, from which flow waters purer than those
of the Sacramental Lake. Here the snows of winter accumu-

WHITE-MO.UNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

65

late to a depth of hundreds of feet, compacting into ice, and
eaten away by the stream beneath until there is formed a
deep cavern, whose sides and roof are of crystalline beauty.
Although it vanishes by late August, this is a true glacier,
showing (in small) all the phenomena of the Mer de Glace,
the moraines, and the scratchings on the bed-rock.
There is a sort of path from the Crystal Cascade into the
ravine, but the best route is by a newly-cleared bridle-path
which leaves the Mount-Washington carriage-road about two
miles up, and enters by Hermit Lake. One may traverse
the ravine, ascend its head-wall, and reach the top of Mount
Washington, in from five to seven hours from the Glen
House. But the best way to enjoy and comprehend the
scene is to pass the night in the Appalachian camp near
Hermit Lake, with good store of blankets and a roaring fire.
Then the sunset, the gloaming, the solemn starlight, even
the red glare of the camp-fire, and the swift sunrise, add
infinite charms to the varying hours. Solitude, a sense of
strangeness, a feeling of amazing other-world-ness, fill the
soul; and the shop, the study, the^ boudoir, seem removed
by infinite aeons and impassable spaces. Do not take merry
men in there to encamp under those majestic cliffs. Rabelais should not intrude in the Homeric realm.

1
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J
j
1
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J

I
I
I

CHAPTER
THE

VILLAGES

OF

THE

WESTERN

VIII.
VALLEYS. — B E T H L E H E M . —

FRANCONIA. — SUGAR H I L L . — LITTLETON. — W H I T E F I E L D AND
DALTON. — JEFFERSON H I L L . — L A N C A S T E R .
BETHLEHEM.

N a broad terrace near the summit of the mountainrange which is bounded by the Ammonoosuc and
Gale-River Valleys, facing the cool north and the
wide strath which opens into the Connecticut Valley, and so on half-way to Canada, for the St. Lawrence
winds to pass through, stands Bethlehem of Coos, which is
now one of the foremost summer-resorts of America. There
are several villages in the Carolinas which are higher above
the sea, but they are lower towards^ the equator, and also
more closely environed by highlands; so that Bethlehem's
urgent claims for superior coolness based on altitude may
still hold good. T h e hay-fever unfortunates also find here a
safe refuge, and convene their national assemblies on these
heights without fear of stertorous sneezings, save when, on
rare occasions, the south winds blow through Franconia
Notch. T h e view of the Presidential Range from this long
street is one of the best imaginable, being at the true artistic point of distance, and showing forth magnificent effects
under the light of morning and evening. The village has
recently been made very accessible by a narrow-gauge railway, leaving the, C. &. M. Railroad line (White-Mountains
Division) at Bethlehem Junction, and ascending the heights
66

White

Mountains.

The Maplewood
Maplewood, Bethlehem, N. H.
Maplewood Hotel,
Maplewood Cottage,
13 Furnished Cottages.
The elegant and spacious "Maplewood Hotel,—the palace Hotel of the
famed town of Bethlehem (the " H u b " of the White Mountains), has accommodations f e»r 500 guests, and in the grandeur of its site, the completeness and modern quality of its equipments, the character of its management,
bears a reputation unsurpassed by any.
The spacious, unique, and handsome " Casino," the only building of its
kind in the state, with its privileges for pleasure and recreation, is for the
exclusive use of Maplewood guests.
The Maplewood
Farm
adjoining, embrace H more than six hundred
acres, and furnishes daily supplies of pure milk and fresh vegetables.
IS Private
Cottages are on Maplewood grounds, containing six to
seven rooms each, fitted*up for those who prefer the privacy of their own
homes.
Transient
Board, $4.50 per day; for the season, $21 per week, and
upward.
Send for descriptive pamphlet.

AINSIilE & McGILVRAY, Managers.
ALSO O F

St.

Augustine, Florida.

The finest location in the South, situated just outside of the city gates,
on elevated land, on one of the broadest and most popular avenues, in the
midst of extensive grounds, commanding a magnificent view of the ocean.

(Or

Smaller

Accommodations for 100 guests.
Upward.

Motel,)

$3.00 per day. $10.00 per week, and

Charles H. Davis, Manager,
M A P L E W O O D , N.

H.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

67

for about three miles. This new route passes near the
Maplewood, stopping at Bethlehem Street, in the vicinity of
the chief hotels. Trains connect with those on the WhiteMountains Division of the Boston, Concord and Montreal
line, and with the new railway route to the Profile House.
T h e materiel of Bethlehem consists of two great summer hotels, a score of smaller hotels and boarding-houses;
churches for the local Congregationalists and Methodists
and the exotic Episcopalians; three miles of plank sidewalks ; the remarkable pipes and hydrants of the Crystal
Springs Water Works ; the park on Strawberry Hill; and
the office of the chatty summer paper, the
White-Mduntain
Echo.
The Sinclair House is the oldest of the two large
hotels, and stands at the divergence of the Franconia road,
with spacious accommodations and countless American adjuncts of luxury. T h e Maplewood is about half a league
distant, and as far also from Bethlehem Junction, isolated
near the edge of the terrace, and commanding a noble view
of the distant White Mountains. This is a very sumptuous
Boston institution, with handsome cottages, observatories,
halls, and other choice and palatial accessories, and ranks
among the foremost of the great mountain hotels.
T h e village is 1,450 feet above the sea, and is undeniably
the coolest place in New Hampshire, off the mountain-tops.
But it lacks trees, cascades, brooks, lakes, forest-rambles,
and the other attractions which give such a charm to North
Conway, and condone its higher temperature. Nevertheless,
there are many pleasant drives in the vicinity, especially
those which lead over the crest of the ridge and open the
view of the great Franconia Mountains, just across a narrow
wooded valley, and forming one of the most glorious prospects in the whole region. The favorite way to enjoy this
view is by the drive called, with August-refreshing poetry,
Around the Heater.
T h e Gale-River road leads through a
picturesque wilderness, by a virgin stream; the Cherry-Valley road is a shady and circuitous lane, through pleasant

68

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK,

woodland scenes ; the Kimball-Hill observatory looks over
all the vast western landscape, from the Adirondacks to the
clear peak of Mount W a s h i n g t o n ; and the rambles on
Strawberry Hill and Cruft's Ledge are rich in their revelations of sylvan beauty and far-away mountains. One may
also drive through Franconia to Sugar Hill; or over Wallace
Hill to Littleton ; or by decaying old Dalton to Lancaster.
Or he may climb to the near summits of Mount Agassiz and
Mount Cleveland, and thence get a panoramic view of countless shadowy mountains and deep-cut glens.
Professor Agassiz discovered moraines in the vicinity, but
they are harmless; and the views which Dwight discovered
and Starr King praised are still the chief and sufficient attraction of this hill-town, plus a temperature of May carried
over into August.
FRANCONIA.

At the bottom of the profound glen which sinks away to
the north-west of Mount Lafayette, is this pretty little hamlet, whose arctic winters have become proverbial throughout
the land of John Stark and William E. Chandler. About the
time that the First Napoleon was at the summit; of his glory,
iron-works were founded here ; but they have long been cold
and abandoned, and Franconia's best title to fame is its very
remarkable view of the dark Franconia Mountains, which
shut out the light from one side of the glen with drop-curtains more magnificent than even a New-York manager ever
dreamed of. It cannot be denied that there are trout in the
adjacent b r o o k s ; and that there are pleasant drives in all
directions—Bethlehem, Littleton, Profile House, Sugar Hill
— needs not to be stated. Nearly 300 urban idlers may be
found here, on any August Sunday, comfortably and inexpensively quartered in the neat boarding-houses which stand
by the roadside. T h e Forest-Hills House, first opened in
18&3, is a spacious first-class hotel, in an eligible locality,
and with much architectural beauty.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

69

SUGAR H I L L .

There is a bold ridge between Lisbon and Franconia,
crossed by several roads, and lifting its crests of pasture
and woodland nearly two thousand feet above the sea,
from which a view may be obtained of the White and Franconia Mountains en famille, which is, in the opinion of the
writer of these solemn pages, at once more grand and more
beautiful than any other prospect in New Hampshire. Not
more than ten years ago there was a small hamlet on the
west slope, commanding the long line of the Green Mountains of Vermont; and on the east slope a few farm-houses,
where occasional groups of summer-tourists abode. Now
there are three large hotels, the Goodnow, Sunset-Hill, and
Look-Off Houses, on the ridge, connected by stages with
kakonymous Littleton, and endowed with all the luxuries of
the Victorian age. T h e hill, like the Sierra Nevada or the
Himalayas, is named for its chief product, whpse derivation
is found in the groves of sugar-maples on the summit. On
one side appear the ascending terraces of Moosilauke; and
on the other are the long slopes of Mount Washington, with
t h e trains crawling *rp and down; but the chief feature of the
scene is the superb Franconia group, seen from foundation
to turret, just beyond the deep trench of the valley of — alas!
— H a m Branch. In spring and autumn the great cruciform
ravine in Mount Lafayette is filled with snow, and the peak
becomes as true a Mountain of the Holy Cross as any that
lures tourists and artists to distant Colorado.
T h e measured distance from Sugar Hill to Franconia is
about 2^- miles; the estimated distance from Franconia to
the hill is nearly 13 miles. The people at the hill drive to
the Franconia Notch, or Bethlehem, or Littleton; or explore
the artificial caverns of Ore Hill, or the gold-mines at Lisbon, or the copper-mines of Mount Gardner; or visit the newfound flume and the Bridal-Veil Fall, on the tangled slopes
of Mount Kinsman. Or," better still, they stay on the verandas, and look.

70

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

LITTLETON.

A bright little village, stretching along the Ammonoosuc,
and slowly climbing the hills to the ( north, with the usual
variety of quaint country stores, the usual group of small
wooden churches, and the usual bank and weekly newspaper,
— so Littleton appears to the casual visitor, who, if his turn
of mind is practical, will see also a line of small factories
along the rushing stream. It is indeed the most prosperous
village in Northern New Hampshire, and might have been
one of its great summer-capitals, if the pioneers of the last
century had not changed its name of Chiswick to the name
which it now bears. It is impossible for romantic or aesthetic emotions to be aroused by the word Littleton, which
comes very near to being the culmination of the commonplace. But little do the busy citizens care for mellifluous
titles. They are too prosperous to need the help of the summer-boarder ; and too vigorously Democratic to pander to
exotic sentiment.
There are beautiful prospects from the hills in this vicinity;
and from the Oak-Hill House and the Chiswick Inn, above
the village, the vast panorama of mountains includes the
Presidential peaks and the Franconia Range, in a single coup
d'ceiL T h e drives over the adjacent ridges, either toward
the Franconia Notch, or to the Connecticut River (which
bounds the town for thirteen miles), reveal other and varying prospects, full of beauty and interest. If any one doubts
it, let him (or even her) drive to Mount Eustis, or Gilmanton
Hill, or Mann's Hill, all within two miles, and verify the
statement. So, in spite' of its name and its enterprise, Littleton is yearly becoming more and more a favorite point
with scenery-hunters. Near the centre of the village is that
famous old inn, Thayer's White-Mountain Hotel, whose
Sunday dinners are famous in all northern New England.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

71

WHITEFIELD AND DALTON.

Whitefleld is the place where millions of feet of logs are
buried in the pond every year, to be resurrected in the form
of shapely boards and symmetrical shingles. On the plateau above the great steam-mills and their tenements is the
pretty village, with its central common and wooden churches.
About four miles out, on the rim of a long slope which descends toward the main range, are the Mountain-View House
and the Cherry-Mountain House, isolated and quiet, and
commanding views of great beauty and interest. Bray Hill
is a gentle eminence about 2\ miles distant, which has for
many years been famous for the grand prospect from its
c r e s t ; and Kimball Hill, crowned by a tall observatory, is
even superior as a view-point, since its horizon is much
broader and more diversified.
Whitefield is at the junction of the Whitefleld and Jefferson, Concord and Montreal, and Maine Central Railroads,
the former of which runs to Jefferson Hill. Dalton is an
obscure and sequestered hamlet to the westward, behind
Dalton Mountain, near the head of the Fifteen-Mile Falls
on the Connecticut River; and its only interest to urban
ramblers is in the great mansion of the Sumner family, once
a sort of feudal castle of this glen, later sparsely occupied
as a summer-hotel, and now abandoned.
JEFFERSON HILL.

As a place for rural homes and farms, Jefferson was
discovered and occupied by Col. Joseph Whipple, in 1772;
and when the Canadian Indians attacked the village, a few
years later, he rallied his sturdy tenantry, and beat off the
invaders with good lusty blows. As a summer-home, the
place was discovered about eighty years later, by Starr King,
whose glowing descriptions drew another swarm of invaders
hither, to remain, during the dog-star's ascendency, as willing captives and tributaries.
Several hotels have been

72

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

erected, at favorable points; and a railroad has been extended from Whitefield to a station within two miles of the new
village. Its height above the sea is 1,437 feet, or within 20
feet of the altitude of Bethlehem, so that the hay-fever sufferers cannot suffer here.
Jefferson Hill is at the point where the Cherry-Mountain
road strikes the Gorham-Lancaster road, high up on the
slope of Mount Starr King, at the edge of the mountain-forests, and looking down on the fair Jefferson meadows. T h e
ample reason for its being is found in the immense landscape of mountains, to the last degree bold and picturesque,
which is outspread before it, across and up the valley of
Israel's River. T h e wooded ridges of Cherry Mountain and
the Dartmouth-Deception Range crowd the foreground,
flanked on the left by the Presidential group, Madison, with
its long slopes toward Gorham; Adams, deeply indented by
King's R a v i n e ; Jefferson, nobly conspicuous and sharply
trenched; and Washington, crested by a white hotel and
barred by a curving railroad. On the right of Cherry are
the clear, sharp peaks of the Franconia Range, Garfield,
the inaccessible, with its dark pyramidal spire; Lincoln, a
lower summit; and Lafayette, firmly drawn against the sky,
serrated, gray, and very stately.
The best authority has
proclaimed this altogether the point from which to obtain
the grandest view of the White Mountains; and subsequent
visitors, experts in aesthetics, have ratified the verdict, with
enthusiasm, although certain local attachments still prefer
the prospects from the Conway roads, or the Glen House,
or Bethlehem (let us leave Sugar Hill exempt from the
comparison). Varying combinations of these noble scenic
elements may be formed by driving out on the North Road,
the Whitefield road, or the renowned Cherry-Mountain road.
The last-named leaves the Ammonoosuc Valley, near Fabyan's, crosses Cherry Mountain, and at Jefferson deflects
to the eastward, and runs out to Gorham, which is 17 miles
from Jefferson.
No other road in New England offers

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

73

such noble views of mountain-scenery, or so highly sustains
the interest of the route. It is the Presidential Range
which is under vision, not masked by foot-hills and long
spurs, as on the east side, but abrupt, precipitous, alpine,
with a few deep and abysmal ravines, separated by steep and
frowning ridges, and with distinct and localized peaks. It is
but two miles farther to the Glen House than to Gorham, by
the Old Pinkham Road, and the best teams are to be found
at the former place.
Five miles out from Jefferson, and fourteen miles from
the Glen House, is the Mount-Adams House, occupying the
best view-point on the road, near Boy Mountain and the
Cold-Stream Falls, and under the shadows of the huge peaks
of Adams and Jefferson, which are within five miles in an
air-line, and stand out with great vigor and fascinating power.
One needs the Latin superlatives to adequately describe the
scene. Several exciting excursions may be made on this
side, and C. E . Lowe of Randolph is the best guide. H e has
made a new path up Mount Adams, from a point about 3J
miles beyond the Mount-Adams House, traversing the woods
by a trail 2J miles long, and then clambering over the ledges,
above the tree-line, for \\ miles more. Branch-paths lead to
Mount Madison and Mount Jefferson, and through the appalling chasm of King's Ravine. This system of paths and
camps was built under the supervision of the AppalachianMountain Club, by which it is kept in order.
Mount Starr King is a peak of the Pilot Range, 3,800 feet
high, rising over the village of Jefferson, and accessible by
a path 2J miles long. T h e journey should be made by midafternoon, in order to see the great ravines of Adams and
Jefferson filled with light; and the magnitude of the view in
all directions will richly repay the labor of the a s c e n t
Cherry Mountain is a long and forest-covered ridge between Israel's River and the Ammonoosuc, 3,670 feet high.
T h e Stanley Slide occurred July 10, 1885, when an avalanche of earth, rocks, and trees descended the Owl's-Head

74

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

peak of Cherry Mountain, making a two-mile track of devastation, wrecking Oscar Stanley's house at the base, killing
several cattle, and mortally wounding Donald Walker, one
of the farm hands. T h e vast scar of this slide is plainly
visible from Jefferson, and is visited daily by scores of people.
LANCASTER.

T h e largest village near the White Mountains, and one of
the most beautiful, is Lancaster, the capital of Coos County,
with its 2,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, 2 newspapers, public
library, academy, and graded schools, and multitudinous lawyers and starch-factories. T h e Connecticut River flows
near, and is bordered by broad and highly productive intervales, which form a beautiful feature of the scenery of the
valley, besides augmenting the revenues of the pleasant Lancastrians. Here, also, flows Israel's River, which descends
from the Ravine of the Castles, under Mount Jefferson,
and crosses the plains of Jefferson. In former times Lancaster was a popular summer-resort, but the rapid growth of
independent local interests, the liberal advertising of other
mountain villages, and the destruction of the great Lancaster Hotel, have well-nigh stricken the place from that category. Still, there are several summer boarding-houses here,
adequate to accommodate perhaps 200 g u e s t s ; and an
autochthonous Episcopal church, for the benefit of aestival
Anglicans.
T h e chief feature of the landscape is the Pilot Mountains,
a far-reaching and wall-like line of highlands, rising abruptly
from the meadows of Lost Nation and New France, serrated
with many porphyritic peaks, and still awaiting an intelligent
explorer. T h e most impressive sight from the village is
this great rolling rampart, which plays fantastic tricks with
the sunshine and shadow, and towards sunset assumes the
tenderest tints of deep amethyst. T h e Presidential Range
is also visible, far away up the Israel's-River Valley, dreamy

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE--BOOIC.

75

and picture-like in its soft blue veil of air, and filling the
senses with languid satisfaction. Lunenburg Heights, eight
miles away in Vermont, and nearly 1,700 feet above the sea,
is the favorite objective point for drives, and overlooks all
the western valleys and the highlands which environ and
compress them. Two miles or so from Lancaster, on the
Whitefield road, is Mount Prospect, with a fine new road to
the hotel on the summit, and views over all upper Coos and
through the mountain regions from the white Percy Peaks,
by the entire Presidential line and- the jagged Frariconia
Range, down to remote blue Moosilauke.
Lancaster is on the Concord and Montreal Railroad, 8-J
hours from Boston, and 10 miles from the end of the line,
where it connects with the Grand Trunk Railway, at
Groveton Junction.
In 1883 the new Lancaster House, a large and handsome
Oueen-Anne hotel, was opened, on the site of the old Lancaster Hotel, Starr King's favorite resort. It is, believed
that the beautiful little Coos capital will speedily regain its
ancient prestige as a summer-resort. Another hotel has
been built on the top of Mount Prospect, which is reached
by a new road, and commands a view of great interest and
extent.

)
[
i

C H A P T E R IX.
T H E PROFILE HOUSE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. — T H E FRANCONIA
MOUNTAINS. — MOUNT LAFAYETTE. — T H E FLUME HOUSE.
THE FRANCONIA

MOUNTAINS.

TjpEj«|3|||N the town of Franconia are the three chief peaks
HN &fl °^ a v e r y Picturesque group of mountains, which
f ^ o P 5 extends several miles to the southward, westsouth-west of the White Mountains, and separated
from the Presidential Range by two chains of ponderous
peaks. Although less lofty than the other mountains, they
excel in the alpine character of their sharp points and slender s p i r e s ; while their unbroken robes of green forest give
them an air of quiet beauty which compensates for the
absence of the desolate and gloomy grandeur of their eastern brethren.
THE PROFILE HOUSE.

T h e Profile House, in a narrow glen near the head of
the famous pass, is the capital of all this region, and gives
shelter to 500 guests at once, with all the soft luxuries
» of our patrician age, the bric-a-brac shop, post and telegraph
offices, billiard and bowling rooms, a barber-shop, gas-lights,
a dining-room fit for a conclave of cardinals, connected villas, and a busy livery-stable. T h e cliff-enwalled basin in
which this wilderness-palace stands is 1,974 feet above the
sea.
In 1879 a narrow-gauge railroad was built from the stand76

New England

Conservatory of Music.
{Founded

by

Dr.

JE.

Tourgee*)

Carl Faelten,

Director.

Music—Instruction
in Piano-forte, Organ, Violin, Violoncello, Double
Bass, Flute, and all other Orchestral Instruments, in Voice Building and Art
of Singing, Solfeggio, Music in Public Schools, Theory, Harmony, Counterpoint and Composition. The present Musical Faculty consists of forty-two
teachers, and to this staff will be added in September, 1891, Signor Fei'uccio
Busoni, at present Professor of Pianoforte at the Conservatory in Moscow,
Russia, and winner of the International Rubinstein prize of 1890; Mr. Cail
Stasuy, now Professor of Piano at Conservatory of Frankfort, Germany;
Miss Estelle T. Andrews, now teacher of Pianoforte of Wellesley College;
and Mr. Templeton Strong, the eminent composer, for the Harmony and
Composition department.
Tuning.—A full course of practical instruction in all branches, under
the supervision of Mr. Frank W. Hale.
Elocution.
— Systematic courses in Elocution, Dramatic and Lyric
Action and Oratory, under direction of Prof. S. R. Kelley, Principal.
Fine Arts*—-Drawing,
oughly taught.

Painting, Modeling and Decorative Art thor-

Moderfy Languages—under

competent teachers,

Many collateral advantages, such as faculty concerts and semi-weekly
pupils' recitals, free to students and their friends. Also, Orchestral
Class*
free to pupils.
A comfortable home for lady students in the Conservatory building
Male student will find board and rooms at from $5.50 per week upward, near
the' Conservatory.
Approximate cost for board, tuition and incidentals for forty-one weeks:
Beginners, $360 to $525 per annum f Advanced s udents, '$440 to $625 per
annum, according to number of studies taken and location of room.
Next

school year begins

Sept. 109

1891.

For Illustrated Calendar address
LUTHER

S.

ANDERSON,

Business Manager,
FRANKLIN

SQUARE,

BOSTON, M A S S .

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

77

ard tracks at Bethlehem Junction, running through nearly
ten miles of forests, and finding its terminus near the Profile House, from which, however, it is happily concealed by
a screen of groves. By this route, the Franconia Notch is
made very accessible to the outer world, while its manifold
beauties have been judiciously saved from blemish. To
the southward, the stages still roll away down the Notch to
the terminus of the new Pemigewasset-Valley Railroad, ten
miles from the Profile and five miles from the Flume. The
Profile House is and must remain the great centre for all
excursions in this lovely Franconian region, whose manifold
and diversified attractions are so worthy of observation.
ECHO LAKE.

Nearly every large mountain-hotel has its museum of
natural curiosities, in the adjacent glens; but that of the
Profile House is fairly rivalled by but few others. From
the veranda of the house, the view falls upon Eagle Cliff, a
precipitous foot-hill of Mount Lafayette, 1,472 feet above the
road, and furnishing a colossal screen upon which the clouds
and the sunlight form magic pictures. Under its iron-bound
walls is the lovely Echo Lake, one of the daintiest imaginable
bits of water-scenery, with a flotilla of white row-boats wherein summer-idlers float throughout the dreamy days. The
little cannon which from time to time is fired (price, 50
cents) on the shore resembles that piece of South-Carolinian
artillery which threw the first shot against Fort Sumter's
walls, in the terrible reverberations and threatening crashes
which are thrown back to it from all points of the compass.
Just beyond the lake is the low and rocky pile of Bald Mountain, easily accessible, and commanding a dividend-paving
view of the Notch, and the Franconia Valley to the north.
THE

PROFILE.

The Profile is perhaps the cardinal wonder of the NewHampshire highlands, and has won worship from ancient

78

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

tribes of Indians, transcendental fancies from Nathaniel
Hawthorne, and astonishment from myriads of travellers.
The old geographies used to portray it, in company with the
Leaning Tower of Pisa and the gigantic natives of Patagonia;
and the railroad circulars still use the same venerable cut.
Probably there is not a finer or more impressive phenomenon of the kind in the world. Twelve hundred feet above
the base of Mount Cannon are three ledges of granite, about

T H E PROFILE.

40 feet high, whereof one forms the forehead, another the
nose and upper lip, and the third the heavy chin, of a vast
human profile, facing the south-east, and clearly relieved
against the sky. Recent investigations by skilful climbers
have shown that these ledges are still firm and strong, and
likely to endure. A few minutes' walk south of the Profile House, a guide-board by the roadside tells the passer-by

"OLD

MAN

OF T H E

MOUNTAINS,"

Near Profile House, Franconia Notch, White Mountains, New Hampshire.

HOTEL LOOK OFF,

.

SOgar Hill, N. H.

TFiK opew for its 5th Season,^ June 15, 1891.
This new hotel is situated on the eastern slope of the mountain of the same name,
one-half mile from its summit, at an elevation of over 1900 feet. The Hotel fronts
east, facing the world«i\ nowned JFranconia Notch, with the whole of Franconia Valley in view. On the right are the massive Franconia mountains, Kinsman, Cannon,
Lafayette and Garfield, from south to north. Beyond is the Presidential range, with
"Washington over-topping all. The Twin mountains near, and beyond them Cherry
mountaiLS, and still farther the Star King and Pilot ranges, and yet more distant
the Dixville mountain. In the far distance Owl's Head in Canada is seen, with miny
well known lesser peaks near by. On the west the Green mountains of Vermont form
the western horizon, with Mt. Mansfield and Camel's Hump plainly discernible.
Those desiring grand t cenery, pure air, freedom from hay-fever, every taint of
malaria, insects, dust and heat, can find no better place. The hotel has 100 larg * airy
guest-rooms, which command a view that cannot be surpassed by any other house in
the White Mountain region. Every room is suppli d with gas, electric bells, the best
of spring bads and hair mattresses, Thr». Hotel is pupplied with an abundance of pure
mountain spring water, is especially well fitted with steam heat and open fires to
accommodate early and late guests, which we cater to, and to whom we will give
especial reduction.
Iron fire-escapes on every floor. We intend that the cuisine shall be first-class.
Music for dancing during the reason. Iu connection with the Hotel is one of the bf st
Liveries in this region, consisting of thirty horses for carriage and saddle, coach with
tally-ho seat, mountain wagdns, two seated side bars, single and double buckboards,
carriages with and without tops. Parties coming to Hotel Look Off: will leave the
train, at Lisbon, N. H., then by coach or piwate conveyance.
Improvements,
5th Season,
1891.
A farm has been purchased adjoining, containing one hundred and forty acres,
where milk aid vegetables will be raised to supply Hotel. A stone cottage, five
\ minutes' walk from House, contain:1, g a few rooms, will be leased to parties or i amilies desiring more quiet. About two miles plank walk has been constructed. Also a
grove has been purchased, containing five acres, directly in front of Hot' 1, fitted up
ifor a park, named Benjamin Park, containing new lawn tennis courts, croquet
grounds, provided with ample shade, and, a spring of pure water which h s been much
enjoyed by former guests. The park is now under the full control of the managers
of the Hotel, and it is hoped will add much to the pleasure of its guests.

* «

THIRAM

NOYES & SONS, Sugar Hill, X. H.

Telegraph Adaressf Lisbon, X. M.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK,

79

to look u p ; and there, high over the quiet lake, is the Great
Stone Face, less preternaturally huge than the pictures indicate, but not less amazing in its silent grandeur. Walk
northward a few feet, and the grim and determined features
relax into the similitude of a toothless old woman ; while
from certain points on higher, ground it appears like the face
of some amiable village Hampden. T h e beautiful crystalline
tarn at the foot of the mountain is Profile Lake, where a little
navy of dainty boats is kept, to wage war on the trout from
the hatching-houses above, or to give Paul and Virginia a
chance to insulate themselves in the embowered coves
towards the outlet of the Pemigewasset-Merrimac.
Lonesome Lake is on a shoulder of Mount Cannon, a
thousand feet above the road, with a bridle-path leading up
from a point about two miles below the Profile House. On
its remote shores, amid the great forests, a picturesque chalet
has been erected by the owners of the lake and its environs,
Messrs. W . C. Prime and W . F . Bridge of New York, and
here literature and Waltonian joys divide the tranquil summer.
Walker's Falls are on the left of the road, about three
miles from the Profile 'House, and are visited by a forestpath leading first to'a series of step-like plunges, then to a
fall of 50 feet, and then to another fall of 60 feet. Above
this succession of cascades the stream may be seen, flowing
out of the White-Cross Ravine.
Mount Cannon rises directly over the Profile House to a
height of 1,876 feet, or 3,850 feet above the sea, and is
ascended by a path two miles long, leading also to the Cannon Rock, a granite ledge which looks like a heavy gun when
seen from below. T h e chief features of the view are the
splendid peaks of Mount Lafayette, just across the Franconia Notch, and the wide expanse of the Pemigewasset
Valley, running below distant Plymouth, and full of rare
beauty and richness.

•

8o

8

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

MOUNT LAFAYETTE.

T h e tallest and most conspicuous of the Franconia Mountains is 5,259 feet high, with a remarkably sharp, clear-cut,
and thin crest-ridge, nearly a mile and a half long, and serrated with several keen peaks of rock. On one side is the
deep and unvisited ravine of the Franconia Branch, and on
the other are the inaccessible semi-glaciers of the WhiteCross Ravine and the forests of the Franconia Notch. T h e
slopes fall away from the narrow crest-line (furrowed by a
deep path worn by animals) almost precipitously, into hollows
of amazing depth. Lafayette is one of the most symmetrical
and attractive of the New-Hampshire peaks, and has doubtless aroused in many minds similar emotions to those which
President Dwight expresses with such droll solemnity: It
" removed all doubts in my mind concerning the practicability of uniting the most exquisite beauty with the most
exquisite sublimity." T h e mountain received its name at
the time of the visit of the Marquis de Lafayette to America,
about the year 1825.
T h e path used to be practicable for saddle-horses, many of
which ascended during each season. Such accommodations
are no longer furnished, and the ascent must be made on
foot, with comfortable slowness. It is well to start early.
T h e path enters the woods close to the Profile House, and
in a mile of climbing reaches the notch between the mountain and the Eagle-Cliff spur. One and a quarter miles
farther leads to the plateau d£ the western spur, covered
with impenetrable copses, and upholding the lofty tarns of
the Eagle Lakes. A mile and a half of climbing over the
sloping ledges of the main peak ensues, with fascinating
views on all sides; and then the summit is reached, 3 ! miles
from the Profile House. T h e ruins of an old stone house
are found h e r e ; and there is a clear spring not far below.
Looking to the north-east and east, beyond the adjacent
cone of Mt. Garfield, one sees the great Twin Range, over

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK:

81

which appear the various peaks of the Presidential Range
(Mount Washington with its hotel and railroad) and the
Mount-Willey group. More to the right, far away, are the
sharp peak of Kiarsarge and the long dark wall of Mount
Pleasant (in Maine), each crowned by a hotel. Across the
wilderness of Pemigewasset appear the vast Mount Carrigain
and the far-reaching Mount Hancock, the white spire of
Chocorua, the sierra of Tripyramid, and the dark pinnacles
of Osceola and Tecumseh. To the right of the Lafayette
ridge appears the fair Pemigewasset Valley, with Kearsarge
and Monadnock far beyond, and Moosilauke, over the Warren mountains. Across the Franconia Notch are the vast
bulwarks of Kinsman and Cannon, with the quiet waters of
Lonesome Lake. T o the right of Cannon are the very distant peaks of Camel's Hump, Mansfield and Jay, in the
Green Mountains, with the houses of Franconia and Littleton in the foreground, and the sharp cleft of the Willoughby
Notch far away on the horizon, and Owl's Head, in Lower
Canada. Farther around are the white bubbles of the Percy
Peaks, the Pilot Hills, the heights of Bethlehem, and the
bright village of Jefferson Hill. It is a magnificent view, one
of the six finest in the entire mountain-region.
T H E FLUME HOUSE.

A little more than five miles from the Profile House,
and 543 feet below it, down the Franconia Notch, is the
Flume House, with room for a hundred and fifty guests.
On one side the Arcadian scenery of the Pemigewasset
Valley stretches away in a vista full ten leagues long; and
in front are the forest-clad peaks of the Franconia Range,
forming the profile called Washington Lying in State. The
beautiful contrast between these two views, the rich peace
of the lowland strath, and the sublimity of the closely environing mountains, gives a continual charm and refreshment
to the sojourn here.
T h e Pool is reached by a path a little over half a mile

82

• WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

long, through the woods, and is a broadening of the young
Pemigewasset River, a hundred feet wide, surrounded by
Black cliffs of great height, which the water enters by a cascade and leaves in rapids. For many years a quaint old
aquatic Diogenes lived here, in a rude boat, imposing tribute
on all who were content to be amused by his cosmogonic
speculations.
The Basin is another Pemigewasset by-play, near the roadside, a mile and a half up the Notch, where the pellucid
waters of the juvenile Merrimac are gathered in a huge
granite bowl, fifteen feet deep and sixty feet around, and
whirl around in a green-hued Maelstrom, impelled by a white
cascade from above. Just below is the mouth of the Cascade Brook, which Mr. Prime calls the finest brook in
America for scenery and small trout, and up whose course,
nearly a mile, by a labyrinthine so-called path, are the brilliant Tunnel Falls, with the rarely-visited but very attractive Island Falls a half-mile higher up, and three miles below
Lonesome Lake.
T h e Georgianna Falls are reached from a point about a
mile south of the hotel, by a difficult path nearly two miles
long. Here the outlet of Bog Pond falls heavily over a
cliff 80 feet high, filling the defiles of Mount Pemigewasset
with its music, but rarely seen o f heard, except by the birds
and the deer.
Mount Pemigewasset is over the Flume House, and may
be climbed, by means of a steep bridle-path, \\ mile long,
leading through the forest to the verge of the summit-cliffs.
T h e view includes two notable scenes : the smiling valley of
the Pemigewasset, hemmed in by mountains and lit up by
the flashing s t r e a m ; and the neighboring Franconia peaks,
sq near as to be visible from base to crest, and indented by
the shadowy White-Cross Ravine.

%

. J Y?''
V

The

*'••,:.

«*.*'« £

*<%(*<. 4&S

w

Flume," near the Flume House, Franconia Notch, White Mountains, N.H.

84

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

THE FLUME.

T h e greatest wonder at the southern gateway of the Franconia Notch is the deep and narrow canon which has been
eaten by a mountain-brook in the coarse granite ledges near
the base of Mount Flume. This famous locality is less than
a mile from the Flume House, and a carriage-road runs almost to its entrance. Thence ascending over broad inclines
of granite, over whose shining slope the water slips in thin
crystal sheets, the gate of the Flume is soon reached. T h e
canon is in fact a trench 700 feet long and from 10 to 20 feet
wide, between parallel perpendicular cliffs fully 60 feet high.
At the bottom a merry little brook dashes down among the
rocky fragments, skirted and often crossed by an easy plank
walk. Between the narrowing walls in the upper part of the
Flume, a huge boulder was held for centuries gripped tightly
by the opposing cliffs, midway between the rim and floor of
the chasm. This huge rock was swept away in June, 1883,
when a tremendous avalanche, caused by rains on the peaks
above, rushed downward through the Flume, lengthening
and deepening the chasm, and adding two new waterfalls to
its attractions. T h e walk leads up to the head of the Flume,
whence adventurous souls and vigorous bodies (of the Appalachian-Club species) have ascended to the summit of Mount
Liberty.
The Franconia Notch is reached on the south by the
Pemigewasset-Valley Railroad (opened in 1883), which leaves
the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad at Plymouth,
and runs northward across Campton and other valley towns
to a point in North Woodstock, five miles below the Flume
House. Near its terminus, in the year 1887, was opened the
large and comfortable Deer-Park Hotel.

CHAPTER
PLYMOUTH. — CAMPTON

AND

X.

WATERVILLE. — T H E

PEMIGEWAS-

SET VALLEY. — MOOSILAUKE.
PLYMOUTH.

H E chief summer-resort on the south-west side of
the mountains is Plymouth, the beautiful and prosperous academic village near the confluence of the
Pemigewasset and Baker's River, capital of Grafton County, withal, and famous commercially for its manufacture of buckskin gloves. It boasts of lovely and productive meadows^ dotted with the most graceful elm-trees ; and
the mountain-born Pemigewasset rushes merrily along the
edge of the terrace on which the village is built. There are
three churches here, the State Normal School, and more
than a thousand inhabitants. In 1712 the Indian town on
this site, chief place of all northern New Hampshire, was
destroyed by Massachusetts rangers, with many of its people, and after fifty years of raids by both combatants through
the valley, the locality was occupied by white settlers.
Afterwards, it became known as the birthplace of abolitionism in New Hampshire. In its court-house, Daniel Webster delivered his first plea; and in its hotel, Nathaniel
Hawthorne died, in 1864.
Fully 500 city-folks spend part of every summer here,
attracted by the pure air, and the beautiful drives in the
vicinity. T h e Pemigewasset House is a large and first-class
establishment, fronting on wide lawns toward the village,
85

86

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

and with the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad and the
beautiful Pemigewasset River behind and below it. No fewer
than 300 guests can be accommodated here, with high and
airy rooms, a quadrille-band to beguile the evening hours
con espressio?ie, parlors of generous dimensions, news-stand,
barber-shop, and reading-room.
Let it be said, without
prejudice to others, that this house is famous for the scrupulous neatness with which it is kept, in all parts. In the
village there are several other boarding-houses, with all
grades of prices and accommodations.
T h e map will show the extent and variety of the drives
in this vicinity, revealing rare views of the Franconia and
Waterville Mountains, and the emerald meadows of the two
rivers. T h e venerable Episcppal Church of Holderness, \h
mile distant, should be visited; and the Livermore Falls, 2
miles up on the road to the Profile House, will repay the
ride, especially by the beautiful views from the road in ascending.
The chief mountain-excursion is that to the top of Mount
Prospect, nearly 5 miles distant, and reached by an easy
carriage-road over the upland pastures. T h e view from the
crest is famous for its variety and beauty, and includes a
vast area of central New Hampshire, Mount Washington,
the sierra of the Franconia Range, the deep trench of the
Pemigewasset Valley, and hundreds of greater and lesser
peaks filling all the north and north-east, with the delightful
and variegated scenery of the lake-country on the other side.
A visit to the top of this mountain is justly considered de
rigueur, for all sojourners at Plymouth.
CAMPTON AND W A T E R V I L L E .

Campton Village, girdled with beautiful hills, and bordered by grassy meadows, is the summer-capital of the upper
Pemigewasset Valley, and receives every year several hundred urban lowlanders, who seek and find the fountain of
health among these graceful hills. There is a small church

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK,

87

here, two or three shops, a dozen boarding-houses, and a
railway-station, erected in the year 1883. T h e drives in
the vicinity are full of varying interest; and there are several favorite rambles over the pastured hills in the neighborhood, revealing beautiful views of the Franconia Mountains
and the great ranges towards Moosilauke. The crowning
attraction of Campton, however, is that which is seen from
its streets, — the view of the Waterville peaks, up the MadRiver Valley. There they stand, the noble trio, Welch
Mountain on one side, altogether rocky, and most brilliant
in color ; Tripyramid in the centre, and more distant, striped
from top to bottom with a vivid white slide ; and on the right
the enormous bulk of Sandwich Dome. T h e people throughout all the countryside call this latter Black Mountain, in
recognition of its prevailing color ; but the geographers have
named it Sandwich Dorne, because there are too many other
Black Mountains in New Hampshire. T h e Camptonians
are altogether an agricultural people, and fifty tons of maplesugar have been prepared here in a single year.
Among the alpine excursions made from this point is that
to the top of Mount Weetamoo, 5 miles distant by road and
nearly 2# miles more by path, whence one may see Lake
Winnepesaukee and Mount Washington. Another is the
ascent of Welch Mountain, about 6 miles distant, and a
remarkably handsome piece of rocky architecture, bright
in color and symmetrical in form. Still another is the trip to
Morgan Mountain, about 9 miles distant, with a path a mile
long leading to a crest which overlooks the exquisite scenery of Squam Lake and Lake Winnepesaukee, with their
hundreds of dainty islands and grove-laden capes.
WATERVILLE.

About 18 miles from Plymouth, and 12
ton Village, is the mountain-resort known
Elliott's), and for many years frequented
and liberal Bostonians. At this point the

miles from Campas Greeley's (now
by transcendental
Mad-River Valley

SS

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

ends, and the road becomes no thoroughfare, for the glen
is nearly surrounded by tall a n d ' formidable mountains.
Two trails run out over high passes, one through by Livermore to the White-Mountain Notch ; and the other over
Flat Mountain to Upper Sandwich. Another rude road
leaves the valley below, and crosses the breezy Sandwich
Notch, to the lake-country on the South. There are very
beautiful views from the road up from Campton; and the
low eminences in the glen command striking prospects.
The vast walls of the Waterville Valley are composed of
Mounts Tecumseh, Osceola, Tripyramid, and Black Mountain, or Sandwich Dome. They are nobly conspicuous from
all points on the lowlands, and form objects worthy of great
admiration and continual interest.
Elliott's is 1,536 feet
above the sea, and is surrounded (beyond its meadows) by
deep forests, among which trout-brooks abound. T h e Cascades, the Greeley Ponds, the Flume, and other points of
attraction, are reached by easy p a t h s ; and there are longer
Appalachian paths to the summits of the adjacent mountains. One of these leads to the top of Osceola, 4,400 feet
high, in little over 4 miles ; another gains the crest of Tecumseh ; and a third winds over the long ridges and sharp peaks
of Sandwich Dome (Black Mountain) to its summit, from
which a superb view is afforded, including the great family
of the White Hills on one side, and the shining plains of
Squam and Winnepesaukee on the other. This prospect
is without doubt one of the very noblest in all New Hampshire, and affords an infinite variety of contrasting episodes.
THE PEMIGEWASSET VALLEY.

W h a t the Saco Valley is to the White Mountains, the
Pemigewasset Valley is to the Franconia Range, the long
and delicious vestibule through which access is gained to
the very many shadowy hills at the end. T h e name itself
breathes forth the free spirit of nature, and sounds like the
long rustle of pine-boughs, or the rush of sylvan streams

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

89

through dewy thickets. It is one of those ponderous composite words which our Indians could make as well as modern German philosophers can, and means Crooked-Mountain-Pine-Place. Born in Profile Lake, and re-enforced
by long streams from the wilderness about Thoreau Falls,
this sesquipedalian stream descends 1,500 feet in the first
30 miles of its course, filling the lovely valley with music
and coolness, and fructifying leagues of level green intervales.
T h e Pemigewasset train leaves Plymouth, on the arrival of
the Boston train, and ascends the valley to the terminus,
five miles from the Flume House. Beyond Livermore Falls
are several famous view-points on the road, and the tall
peaks about Waterville loom up conspicuously on the right.
Soon W e s t Campton is reached, with Sanborn's ancient inn,
beloved by artists, and just across the river from the mild
summer-resorting of Campton Village.
T h e next town to be traversed is Thornton, prolific in
corn, potatoes, and maple-sugar, Scottish in scenery, and for
a quarter of a century the parish of Dr. Noah Worcester.
There are a few farm boarding-houses scattered here and
there in the t o w n ; and the pretty Mill-Brook Cascades, 42
feet high, are near the road east of the river. Just beyond
W e s t Thornton is the most striking view on the stage-road,
where the Franconia Mountains, foreshortened along their
axis, are grouped in a cluster of sharp dark spires.
Woodstock, " the head of plough navigation," is the next
town traversed by the advancing railway-train, nearer the
Franconia Range, amid wilder surroundings of ridge and
forest, and with a much scantier population. T h e mountains
appear in several grand views from the road, and command
continual attention. At North Woodstock are a few boarding-houses; and the Deer-Park Hotel is' a charmingly
situated summer-resort. On the east a road leads across the
river, and a short distance into the edge of the Pemigewasset wilderness, to Pollard's, where the veteran guide dwells;

oo

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

and a western road conducts to : the Agassiz Basins, and in
to the trail which leads to Moosilauke and Warren.
Be)ond Woodstock and the railway terminus, the stageroad rises rapidly, and soon enters the portals of the Franconia Notch, hard by the Flume House.
MOOSILAUKE.

T h e straggling village of Warren, with its group of summer
boarding-houses, is on Baker River and the Boston, Concord
and Montreal Railroad, not far from the Connecticut Valley,
and in the midst of woody mountains and falling brooks, to
which many weird Indian traditions still cling.
Moosilauke, one of the noblest view-points in the White
Hills, lies to the northward, and a good road leads to the two
sequestered boarding-houses at the base, over 5 miles from
Warren. T h e summit is reached by a carriage-road about
4J miles long, ascending near the deep Jobildunk Ravine,
and traversing the clear and narrow ridge between the south
and north peaks, up to the massive old building of the Tip
T o p House, on the crest. Other routes, by steep paths,
ascend from W a r r e n Summit and from Tunnel Brook. T h e
peak of Moosilauke is haunted by many legends of the ancient
Pemigewasset Indians, which have been narrated in a style
of charming quaintness, interspersed with tales of the early
settlers, told in the manner of the veracious Diedrich Knickerbocker, in Samuel Little's " History of Warren."
The view is not .surpassed by any other in New Hampshire,
and includes the rich and fascinating Connecticut Valley, the
Presidential and Franconia R a n g e s ; black Carrigain, in the
wilderness; Kiarsarge, by North Conway; the Mad-River
Valley, and its enwalling p e a k s ; the shining levels of Lake
Winnepesaukee, and the open sea; Kearsarge's spire, and
Monadnock's blue d i s k ; Greylock, chief of the Berkshire
hills; Ascutney's pointed crest-; and the long and serrated
lines of the Green Mountains of Vermont.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

91

T H E BENTON RANGE.

T o the west of Moosilauke, and very conspicuous from
the delicious meadows which surround the medicinal springs
and quiet streets of Newbury, is a range of mountains which
are rarely visited and little known by the tourists to the
White Hills. T h e peaks are Owl's Head, Blueberry Mountain, Hogsback, Sugar Loaf, and Black Mountain, the latter
of which is 3,571 feet above the sea, higher than Kiarsarge
or Chocorua, and fully as picturesque in its remarkable
rocky architecture. It is worth the labor of the ascent for
this alone, and again for its charming prospect over the
meadows of the Connecticut and the western mountains.
Sugar Loaf is a sharp aiguille of white rock, monumentally
conspicuous from the long valley, and ascended by means of
iron pins sunken in the ledges.

CHAPTER

XL

T H E WESTERN AVENUE. — T H E ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO LOWELL,
CONCORD, AND LANCASTER, AND T H E WEST SIDE OF T H E MOUNTAINS.

S g g g i H E western route to the mountains may be called
iRfflEcjJI the Merrimac Route, as those on the east merit the
PPiL!Bfil| title of the Saco Routes. Entering the Merrimac
Valley within 15 miles of Boston, the western line
follows its course for 130 miles, and then crosses Warren
Summit to the Connecticut Valley. T h e train leaving Boston at about 8 A.M. stops at Plymouth for dinner, and reaches
Lancaster or Fabyans in the latter part of the afternoon.
After leaving the huge terminal station of the Boston and
Lowell system, the train rumbles across one of the many
caterpillar bridges which almost hide the Charles River, and
then flies by several suburban stations in Somerville and
Medford, and a long line of rural villages in the country
beyond. At Lowell the broad Merrimack River is" reached,
and the factories which line the stream for a long distance
attest how valuable is this mountain-born water to New-England industries, and especially to " the Manchester of America." More than 65,000 people dwell here, and 16,000 of
them are employed in the cotton-mills alone, making fabrics
which are famous all over the world/ This great manufacturing city, which has long been one of the show-places of
Massachusetts, is yet less than 70 years old. T h e waterpower which is its reason for being is derived from the Paw-

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

93

tucket Falls, and flows down the front of the city in a canal
1J mile long, which debouches at the mouth of the classic
Concord River.
Pleasant views are given over the Merrimac as the train
hurries onward, soon entering New Hampshire, and pausing
at the bright manufacturing city of Nashua, where about 15,000 people derive a comfortable living from the mills which
line the water-power of the Nashua River.
Less than an hour more brings the traveller to the largest
city in New Hampshire, Manchester, devoted to various
manufactures, and sheltering 40,000 inhabitants under its
many roofs. Both at Manchester and Lowell were large
Indian towns, in ancient times, where the aborigines gathered to catch fish at the Amoskeag and Pawtucket Falls.
Seventeen miles beyond, the train enters Concord, the capital
of New Hampshire, a handsome city of 15,000 inhabitants,
with an imposing State-House and other public buildings,
and a line of profitable manufactures. In the suburbs are
quarries of fine white granite, employing 500 men, and producing large quantities of stone every year.
Beyond this snug little capital the line crosses the Merrimac, and approaches Canterbury, famous for its Shaker
village; and Tilton, where the Methodists have a large
seminary. Soon the gallant line of the Sandwich-Waterville
mountains comes into view, filling the north-eastern horizon
with its broken lines. T h e Winnepesaukee River is followed closely, and its expansions of Sanb(3rnton Bay and
Lake Winnesquam, past the busy and prosperous towns of
Laconia and Lake Village, and then over a kind of amphibious route, among bays and lagoons, arid with the mountains
rising more and more conspicuous. Weirs is the station
where the neat little waves of Lake Winnepesaukee are seen
on the starboard quarter of the train, with the large steamboat, adequate to a transatlantic voyage, which braves the
blustering seas towards Wolfeborough and Barn-Door.
The train runs up, by the camp-meeting tabernacles, and

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along the shore of a protracted bay, to Meredith, — a quiet
lake-village, with some slight (but unadvertised) claims as a
summer-resort. For the next half-hour the route lies through
a thinly-settled region, with occasional ponds visible in the
woods, and along the horizoii several famous mountains,
with new ones rising into view from time to time. Beyond
Bridgewater, descending on the Pemigewasset meadows, the
Franconia Range is seen, cutting the northern sky.
At Plymouth there is much noise and bustle — half an
hour for dinner — huge Pemigewasset Hotel on one side,
river on the other — transfers of no end of baggage and
tourists for Campton and the Profile House — down-trains
meeting Boston trains, as at a half-way house — bells, gongs,
whistles, and a great clattering of knives and forks.
After this refreshment the train rushes up the ancient
Asquamchumauke Valley, along the meadows of Baker's
River, and strikes its first bond fide peak, on the right-hand
side, in Mount Stinson, which glowers over the vale of
Rumney.
T h e valley narrows to Wentworth, with its
Noah's-ark of a church, and Warren, a disintegrated rural
village, not so handsome as it should be, in view of the
natural beauties around it. Thence the line ascends the
Mikaseota glen to Warren Summit, and soon takes down
grades towards the Connecticut, with views of royal old
Moosilauke on the right, and the fine peaks of the Benton
Range. Past the venerable village of Haverhill, — known
to searchers for vernal peace, — we bear away to the north,
with very charming views across the Connecticut River and
the luxuriant Oxbow Meadows, across which is the white
hamlet of Newbury.
At Woodsville and Wells River is the confluence of
two rivers and several railroads, under the lee of rugged
and woody Mount Gardner.
Heavier by the accession
of numerous tourists from the President-making regions
beyond the Hudson, the train runs up the Ammonoosuc
Valley, environed by hills and woods, and giving slight

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

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95

glimpses of Bath and Lisbon, and a fuller view of Littleton.
From Wing Road, a little way beyond, the main line continues on, by the immense lumber-mills of Whitefield, to
Lancaster—of which we have before spoken — and Groveton Junction, where it intersects the Grand T r u n k Railway.
T h e Mount-Washington Branch diverges at W i n g Road, and
runs 20 miles into the mountains, following the deep and
forest-covered valley of the Ammonoosuc, and terminating
only at the base of Mount Washington. From Bethlehem
Junction the pretty little narrow-gauge trains run up the
heights to the Maplewood and the great summer resort of
Bethlehem, 3 miles distant; and also to the Profile House,
down in Franconia Notch. Soon the white facade of the
Twin-Mountain House is seen^ on the left; and, as the
Fabyan House is approached, the glorious line of the Presidential Range starts into the field of vision.

CHAPTER
LAKE

WINNEPESAUKEE

OUGH AND

CENTRE

AND

ITS

XII.

SURROUNDINGS. — WOLFEBOR-

HARBOR—SQUAM

LAKE.— THE

ROUTES

BY T H E BOSTON AND MAINE RAILROAD.

I N N E P E S A U K E E , wild, aboriginal, irregular, and
yet musical and sweet, the name is like its subject,
— full of winsomeness, and far apart from the
commonplace. No wonder that when some hairbrained sentimentalist said that the word meant " T h e Smile
of the Great Spirit," the people, far and wide, caught at the
fancy, and all the Nipmuck lexicons in New England could
not shake their faith. But the Indians were very practical
folk, scanty in theology as well as in vesture, and their
name, that which the lake now bears, signified simply " T h e
Beautiful W a t e r in a High Place." Two tribes of red men
dwelt on the shores, and feasted on the fish that they drew
from the waters; and in later days the French partisans
and Indian warriors from Canada made this a main route
for attacks on the New-England towns. New Hampshire
erected a cordon of block-houses in the region in 1722;
and in 1746 Col. Atkinson's regiment was cantonned in
winter-quarters near the lake to serve as a bulwark against
the Canadian forays. In good truth, these valiant soldiers
spent most of their time in hunting and fishing; and when
the forces were disbanded many of the young militiamen
hastened back into this primeval paradise, to "locate." So
the settlement began, and their log-huts rose under the
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WHITE-MOUNTAIN

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97

Ossipee Mountains, and along the bays of the southern
shore. Winnepesaukee became a civilized lake, and the
Indians, the fish, and the forests vanished. About the y.ear
1835, steamboats appeared; and at a later day the genius of
the nineteenth century made the lake an annex of Lowell,
by damming up its waters at the outlet, and raising the entire
surface 6 feet higher, — or to 502 feet above the sea, — to
serve more acceptably as a mill-pond to draw upon when the
Merrimac runs low.
As now constituted, Winnepesaukee has about 70 square
miles of water-area, with a greatest length of 19 miles, and
a greatest width of %\ miles. T h e waters — everywhere
clear and transparent — are generally rather shallow, though
reaching a depth of 200 feet at certain points ; and so feeble
and inadequate are the influent streams, that wise men
believe that there are many vast springs underneath the
waters. T h e inevitable " 365 islands — one for every day
in the y e a r " — w h i c h the average American will try to find
in the seas of Paradise, as he has already found them
miraculously occurring at Lake George and Casco Bay, and
in all other Yankee archipelagoes,—are also accredited to
Winnepesaukee. Iconoclastic Science, however, with her
theodolites and compasses, sweeps the whole mimic sea with
a net-work of bases and angles, baited with juicy logarithms,
and finds only 267 islands, islets, and rocks, covering 10
square miles,—3 of them having over 500 acres each, 7
more over 160, and 226 less than 10 each. Some of these
contain large and exceptionally productive farms, whose
navy of horse-boats make an actual and practical thing of
a horse-power as applied to navigation. But most of the
islands are mere bits of turf and rock, a strip of beach, a
group of bushes and arching trees, just large enough and
lonely enough for, the camps of summer-gypsies, and good
for little else. Encouraged by the laws of the Commonwealth of New Hampshire, and stimulated by the honorable fish-commissioners, the finny population has largely

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increased, and now affords good sport and frequent dinners
for the knights of the bending rod.
En passant, it may be said, as a point d^appui for the
encouragement of Anglo-Americans of the type of the
younger Henry James, that this bizarre Winnepesaukee has
been endued with a certain couleur de rose by such belsesprits, connoisseurs, and litterateurs as Edward Everett,
Starr King, ; Dr. Bartbl, Harriet Martineau, and Fredrika
Bremer, who regarded it as a chef-d^ oeuvre of nature, and,
possibly par complaisance merely, compared it not unfavorably with ces autres in the transatlantic realms over which
Cook's tourists are driven Mais, chacun a son gout.
" I perceive that you have a great mynd to the lakes,"
wrote Capt. Mason, speaking of this region, in 1634; and
the Americans who have been thus inclined in the subsequent quarter-millennium may be numbered by hundreds of
thousands. T h e exquisite limpidity of the waters, the graceful combinations of the multitude of islands, the sublimity
of the mountains on all sides, afford sources of continual
amazement, surprise, and delight, and give inspiring novelty
to every voyage over the landlocked sea. T h e bays which
retreat into the shadows of the Ossipee Mountains, interlocked with verdant shores and alcoved by bowery promontories, are accessible by smaller boats, and afford most
delicious cruising-ground when wading cattle do not blockade the straits.
The steam navy of Winnepesaukee is headed by the great
vessel Mount Washington, competent to carry r,ooo passengers, and the commodious Lady of the Lake, which is usually
spoken of as The Lady.
There are also several smaller
ex^ ..rsion-steamboats, a few fresh-water yachts, and a goodly
fi tilla of neat row-boatsi
;.:,/;
T r n r e are four ports which rejoice in the visits of the
larger vessels: Alton Bay, Wojfeborough] Centre *H arbor,
and the Weirs. Alton Bay, 96 mile: frc m Boston and 28
miles from Dover by the Boston and Maine Railroad, is the

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nearest point to Boston (all-rail, and no change of cars), and
is reached from Dover, on the main line (see page 17), by
ascending the Cocheco Valley, and passing through Rochester and Farmington. The Mount Washington leaves Alton
Bay and its summer-hotel and camp-meeting grounds, on
arrival of the Boston train, and runs down the long and
river-like fiord of Merry-Meeting Bay for 5 miles, after which
she swings out on the open lake, and soon reaches Wolfeborough.
Wolfeborough is the terminus of a branch of the Eastern
Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad, 51 miles from
North Conway.
The direct course to Centre Harbor is 20 miles long,
and leads through the broadest parts of the lake, between the
islands, and with glorious views of the environing mountains and peninsulas. Conspicuous on one side are the tall,
twin peaks of Mount Belknap, or Gunstock, with their lightcolored sienite crests; the Ossipee Range, covered with
dark forests, lifts its long wall on the right; and in front
swell the characteristic mountains of Sandwich and Waterville, overlooked, at one point, for* about 15 minutes, by the
remote and stately peaks of Mounts Washington, Adams,
Jefferson, and Pleasant. One by one, group by group, the
islands float swiftly by, the shifting scenes of a grander tableau than human orchestra ever played before. The limpid
water flows dreamily around these fair Atlantides, and Percival should sing here his " On thy fair bosom, silver lake,"
where Whittier has averred that " The lake is white with
lotus-flowers." Amid this peace of air and sea the course
lies onward, and up the narrow northern bay to the white
hamlet of Centre Harbor. This is the last port of the Mount
Washingtonj
but The Lady continues on to the Weirs,
which is 106 miles from Boston, and the point where the
Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad meets the lake boats.
T h e Mount Washington
connects at Long Island with a
steamboat for Lajce Village and Weirs.

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WOLFEBOROUGH.

T h e active manufacturing village of Wolfeborough is prettily situated at the foot of a quiet bay on the eastern shore,
along the slopes of two hills which decline towards the little
mills and shops near the outlet of Lake Wentworth. T h e
Pavilion is the great hotel, with wide lawns sloping to the
water, anpl rooms for 300 guests. There are several other
hotels h e r e ; and boarding-houses and farm-houses enough
to accommodate many hundreds of visitors, among the adjacent hills. T h e usual pastime of driving about the countryroads, and getting views of near and distant scenery, is
varied here by water-excursions, trips up and down the lake
on the steamboats, and more independent and laborious
journeys in row-boats and yachts. Only a mile distant is
Lake Wentworth, a very pretty lake indeed, 4 miles long,
sprinkled with islands, and bearing on its shores the remains of Wentworth House, the feudal mansion of Sir
John Wentworth before the Revolutionary War.
Copple Crown is a mountain 2,100 feet high, 6 \ miles from
Wolfeborough, a mile of which is on an easy upland p a t h ;
and this forms one of the favorite excursions for city-folks.
The view includes the great lake on the north, and numerous
other glittering sheets of water in Eastern New H a m p s h i r e ;
with such mountains as Belknap, Moosilauke, Passaconaway,
Carrigain, Chocorua, Moat, Washington, Carter Dome,
Kiarsarge, Ossipee, the Uncanoonucs, Wachuset, Monad-"
nock, and Kearsarge.
Tumble-Down Dick is a pasture-covered hill a mile from
Copple Crown, crossed by a road, and affording a very
extensive view over the lake. The careful chronicler of
Wolfeborough should also describe the charms of the Short
Square and the Long Square, and dwell on the delights of
the Devil's Den arid the drives to Alton Bay and to Ossipee
Falls. W e shall leave many a terra incognita in Carroll
County, for adventurous wheels and keels to explore.

CENTRE HARBOR.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

CENTRE HARBOR.

Quite the daintiest and sweetest of the maritime ports 6i
Winnepesaukee is " the little hamlet lying white in its mountain fold," at the end of the long northern bay, 553 feet above
the sea, and close to some of the finest scenery in America.
There is a little church here, a country-store, a telegraphoffice, a line of pretty summer-villas, a large hotel and a
small one, and a dozen or so of rural boarding-houses, with
delightfully low prices. T h e railroads are far enough away,
and the only regular line of communication by land is the
great mail-stage which rumbles away over the picturesque
road to W e s t Ossipee, once a day. T h e long verandas of
the Senter House, cloistered by venerable elms, look out
down the lake for full 20 miles; and below them is a flotilla
of white pleasure-boats, in which daring navigators seek the
distant coasts of Beaver Island and Moultonborough Neck.
T h o s e who prefer to ramble may reach the top of Sunset
Hill or Centre-Harbor Hill in a few minutes from the village,
and overlook the manifold beauties of the lake-country and
the environing mountains. T h e drive called Around the
Ring, not more than 5 miles long, gives most fascinating
views of Red Hill and Squam L a k e ; and the road to Meredith, 5 miles westward, reveals new phases of the lakescenery.
In a word, and without dissembling, Centre Harbor would
be a little suburb of Paradise, but for the fact that in August
it is sometimes warm — even hot — possibly not more so
than North Conway or Plymouth, but running higher into
the Fahrenheit eighties than Bethlehem or the Glen House
ever do.
RED HILL.

A huge mound of gray sienite, 3 miles long, and 2,043 ^ e e t
high, Red indeed in autumn, this so-called hill rises nobly
over the Sandwich plains, and the view from its crest has
won enthusiastic praises from all manner of visitors, for a

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

105

hundred years, ranging in expression from Timothy Dwight's
dry rhapsodies to Starr King's or Isaac Hill's flowery exuberance. Dwight said that it repaid the labor of riding
to it on horseback from New H a v e n ; Isaac Hill, that a
more charming and delightsome view is not perhaps to be
seen in.America; Harriet Martineau, that it was " altogether
beautiful;" N . P . Rogers, that it is the perfection of earthly prospects, and defies competition) as it transcends description ; Dr. C. T. Jackson, that it is the most beautiful panorama which this country affords. T h e road is about 13 miles
from Centre Harbor to the point where the Red Hill trail
begins, and the path is nearly ij- mile long. If it is perferred to go up on horseback, sure-footed mountain-horses
may be taken from the base of the path. T h e view includes
the superb sea of islands on the south, Wachuset, Monadnock, Kearsarge, Cardigan, the lovely Squam Lake, Moosilauke, Sandwich Dome, Tripyramid, Whiteface, Chocorua,
Kiarsarge, Pleasant (near Sebago Lake), and all the hamlets
and lakelets of the surrounding country for many leagues.
Without endorsing the inordinate praises just cited, it may
easily be maintained that this is the finest prospect in all the
lake-country.
Ossipee Park is 10 miles from Centre Harbor, near the
obscure lake-port of Melvin Village. Here, near the famous
Falls of Song (the ancient Ossipee Falls), on a high plateau
overlooking Lake Winnepesaukee and the mountains, is the
beautiful villa of Mr. B. F . Shaw of Lowell. Over the glen
towers the forest-clad Mount Shaw, 2,361 feet high.

ASQUAM LAKE.

There is nowhere in our New England more beautiful
scenery than that which is found around this sequestered
lake. Nowhere else does Nature display such fascinating
variety, broad highland waters, exquisite islands, frowning
mountains, sylvan shores ; nor is there any other locality

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more free from the disfigurements of human interpolations,
or the meretricious additions of bourgeois taste.
The
Asquam House is a new hotel, on Shepard Hill, near the
lake, and overlooking it for many picturesque miles.
T h e name Squam or Asquam
is the Indian word for
water, and fails to indicate a lofty flight of imagination (or
of euphony) on the part of the red sponsors. T h e lake is
6 miles long, and covers more than 15 square miles, with
deep bays and coves, and a growing population of vigorous
fish. T h e r e are 16 islands rising from this crystal sea, some
of them large enough to be used as pastures, while others
are hardly more than great green bouquets, tied at their
bases with azure ribbon (as Chateaubriand said of the Hudson Highlands). A venerable antiquary of the Massachusetts Historical Society said, 65 years ago, and truly and
quaintly enough, that if this lake had been in Europe,
" m a n y a tourist would have tasked his imagination for
sonorous epithets to describe its scenery, many an artist
would have prepared his softest tints to paint its beauties,
and many a poet would have strung his lyre to sound its
praises."
THE WEIRS.

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Where the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad runs
near deep-water channels on Lake Winnepesaukee, and
delivers passengers to the steamboats, a pretty little summer city has risen, with several large hotels, and the highly
diversified streets of a camp-meeting ground. T h e latter,
indeed, so far as its site is concerned, is largely dowered
with sweetness and light, insomuch that it has allured even
the Unitarians, least Methodistic of all sects, to establish
here a downright camp-meeting, where the voices of liberal
divines and Arian polemics have resounded through the
groves, and astonished the autochthonous birds. T h e Methodists gather here more regularly, and in greater numbers,
and enjoy nature and religion together, as is their wont.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

107

Four times a day the Lady of the Lake leaves this theological port, to run to Centre Harbor and .Wolfeborough,
affording most convenient opportunities for marine excursions. It should be stated that the name of the station is
derived from the fact that the ancient Indian tribes built
long stone walls in the shallows near by, where the river
flows out, and placed nets here and there, at the openings,
wherein they used to catch immense numbers of shad and
salmon, at the times of their annual migrations. T h e s e
weirs remained for many years after their builders had been
exterminated, and bequeathed their name to the locality.

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ALTON BAY.

T h e most southerly point of the lake, not far from the
rural village of Alton, has been a steamboat-port since 1832,
and is now the point where a branch of the Boston and
Maine Railroad terminates, and whence the great steamer
Mount Washington
sails. Here the Adventists and the
Spiritualists have their summer camp-meeting grounds, and
discuss matters which even a guide-book may gravely smile
at.
There is also a secular hotel here, where fair cheer is found;
and the scenery and fishing in the vicinity are alike good.
Numerous ponds, or small lakes, are scattered through the
adjacent towns, the best of which are Merry-Meeting Lake,
10 long miles around, and Lougee Pond, on the road to
Gilmanton Iron Works. There are exceedingly beautiful
views from the summits of Sheep Mountain and Prospect
Hill, and from the roads leading over their ridges. Twelve
miles from the Bay, over a hilly road, yet one which gives
very noble prospects, is the path which leads in i j mile to
the top of Mount Belknap, 2,394 feet high, and commanding
a view which has but few rivals in this cluster of Yankee
States. T h e most direct route to Mount Belknap is from
Laconia, the large and beautiful village on Lake Winnesquam, 7 miles distant.

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CHAPTER

XIIL

B E T H E L . — SHELBURNE. — GORHAM. — BERLIN FALLS. —
ROUTE FROM

PORTLAND

TO T H E

NORTHERN

SIDE

OF

THE
THE

MOUNTAINS.

T H E GRAND T R U N K R A I L W A Y .

>HIS exceedingly Anglican route, with its headquarters in London, and its arms reaching from the
Lower St. Lawrence to the Great Lakes, has a
pleasant route which leads from Portland to the
mountain resorts near the upper Androscoggin, in about 70
miles. T h e line lies through a long line of Casco-Bay
townships, with occasional glimpses of the bay itself; and
then turns upward into the country, passing the pretty village of New Gloucester, and the station where stages await
passengers for the great hotel at Poland Spring, 4 miles off
the line. T h e n the valley of the Little Androscoggin is followed up, while the landscape becomes more rolling and
diversified. Paris Hill appears on the right, a proud little
county-capital crowning a high eminence ; and beyond the
ensuing wilderness, another charming bit of scenery appears,
at the station of Bryant's !Pond. T h e purgatorial woods of
the water-shed are soon passed, and the train swings down
into the rich pastoral region of the Androscoggin Valley.
BETHEL.

A dignified and well-to-do old village on the Androscoggin
River, near the great bend where the Presidential Range
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WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

109

forces the stream to swing from south to east, Bethel had
natural advantages and early influences as a summer resort
which later years have failed to adequately develop. It is
peculiarly an agricultural settlement, with beautiful intervales
along the river, rich in various products, and adding a sweet
pastoral charm to the landscape. T h e low mountains in
the vicinity are mostly covered with pasturage, and lack the
grim savagery of the peaks about the Saco and the Ammonoosuc. There are great resources for drives, for the country is open, and affords many easy and comparatively level
roads, extending into the western townships of Maine, and
even into various " Grants " and " Locations " where, as yet,
the academy-bells have not sounded, nor rival churches
installed brown-handed deacons. These easy buck-board
routes lead to points not yet familiar to the Cook's tourists
on the main avenues of travel, — to the Albany Basins, the
Rumford Falls, the Grafton Notch, and the Screw-Auger
Falls; and to many other charming nooks which even this
multivagous Guide-book knows not of. T h e nearer viewpoints are Sunset Rock and Paradise Hill, and those more
remote are Mount Abram and Mount Caribou, which look
upon the great Presidential Range, across the screen of the
Moriah-Carter ridges.
Bethel has two cosey hotels, on the quiet village-green,
nearly a mile from the railroad-station; and a dozen summer boarding-houses, on^the shady old streets, and along
the riverward meadows.
SHELBURNE

AND T H E LEAD-MINE

BRIDGE.

T h e town of Shelburne, where many summer-guests abide
in quiet farmhouses, consists of a sinuous valley, along the
Androscoggin, floored with green intervales, rich in grain and
grass, bordered on north and south by unbroken ranges of
tall mountains. Near the railroad-station is the least fragment of a hamlet, with a post-office and an old inn, over
which rises Mount W i n t h r o p ; and on the other side of the

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river is Gates Cottage, from which the great northern peaks
are so nobly visible. A path leads thence to Dream Lake
and the crest of Mount Baldcap, which overlooks the tumultuous wilderness towards Lake Umbagog, and also the coronal peaks of all this region.
T h e Lead-Mine Bridge is less than five miles from Gorham, where the road crosses the Androscoggin, and leads
toward Gates Cottage. From the bridge itself is gained one
of the most famous views of the peaks of Washington,
Adams, and Madison, directly over the bright rippling waters
and bouquet-like islands of the river. This aesthetic pilgrimage should be made towards the latter part of a clear summer afternoon, when the day is well aired, and the alchemy
of the sunshine has transformed meadow and hill into forms
and colors of ideal beauty.
In such contracted space, we cannot tell the legends of
Moses Rock, of Granny Stalbird's Ledge, of Hark Hill, or
recount the mediaeval history of Shelburne and the Indian
forays. Nor can we speak of the prolongation of the narrow valley eastward through Gilead, mountain-walled and
abounding in game, settled in ancient times by religious
enthusiasts from Massachusetts, and down to this day without even a hamlet in which to group its sturdy hill-men.
GORHAM.

T h e time was when Gorham stood as the chief of the
mountain-resorts, and although that is long past, there is yet
much to attract hither the lover of natural scenery. It has
railroad repair-shops of many-Hibernian power; but Starr
King will never more write his inspired chapters in its hotel;
and the goodly company of old-time guides are now (let us
hope) upon the Delectable Mountains. T h e village is 812
feet above the sea, standing in that elbow-like glen which is
formed by the Androscoggin River, rushing from the Rangeley Lakes straight towards Lake Winnepesaukee, but abruptly blockaded, and thrown off at a right angle with its former

WHITE-MOUNTAIN'

GUIDE-BOOK.

i n

course, by the sturdy foot-hills of the Presidential Range.
Here the Rangeley waters are met by Moose River, flowing
from the dark depths of King's Ravine, and the Peabody
River, which drains the Great Gulf.
There is no other village so near as this to the chief peaks
of the White Mountains, but they are hidden from view by
the shaggy hills which impend on the south. T h e imposing
masses and picturesque crests of the Moriah and Carter
Ranges are seen from the streets, close at h a n d ; and a few
minutes' walk leads to points which view the stately forms
of Washington and his staff. On the westward are the sunset curtains of the Crescent and Pilot Ranges, filling miles
of wilderness between Gorham and Lancaster; on the north,
closest of all to the village, is Mount Hayes, the guide
around which the river wheels, and the outpost of that range
of peaks which runs off into the woods to lofty Goose E y e .
It should be remembered that the old Alpine House has
been replaced by a new and spacious modern hotel, bearing
the same name, and continuing the same traditions ; and
also that the Gorham House is a comfortable old-time inn,
near the centre of the village. Both these hotels have many
horses, who pass the summer in drawing parties of tourists
over the meadow-roads, or through to the Glen and Summit
House, or over the famous Cherry-Mountain road. For it is
chiefly as a centre of delightful drives that Gorham is famo u s ; and from their courses the intervales of the Androscoggin are combined in infinite variety with the blue calms and
white turmoils of the river, and with the majestic forms of
the great mountains. W e shall soon speak of the favorite
drives, to Berlin Falls and the Lead-Mine Bridge.
A path begins at the end of the queer little suspensionbridge, and ascends to the top of Mount: Hayes in about two
miles. T h e main features of the view from this point are
the peaks of Washington, Adams, and Madison, within from
8 to 10 miles, and splendidly grouped for picturesque effects,
Adams and Madison rising in grand flowing lines from the

112

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

valley, and looking across to the bold opposing heights of
Carter and Moriah. In contrast with this Olympian majesty
is the Arcadian beauty of the Androscoggin meadows,
stretching away for many miles, jewelled by the diamond
and lapis lazuli of the river, and flecked with white farmhouses.
MOUNT MORIAH.

Mount Moriah, 4,000 feet nigh, is accessible from Gorham
by a bridle-path about 5 miles long, the same over which
Starr King and his illuminati used to ramble, and recently
renewed and cleared by the United-States Coast Survey.
Half-way up is the little peak of Mount Surprise, which commands such a fascinating view of the Pinkham Notch, the
Presidential Peaks, and the savage forests between. T h e n
ensues a charming walk through the dwindling upland groves,
by venerable mossy cliffs and up over breathless ridges, until
the bare crest is gained. T h e Green Mountains of Vermont,
the Kennebec peaks, the gray summits of Maine and Lower
Canada, fill the distant field; and close at hand are the vast
spires of the Presidential Range, cleft by profound ravines,
and closing the west with fretted lines of alpine ledges.
Randolph Hill is something over five miles from Gorham,
and is reached by driving out on the Jefferson road, to a
place called Scater's, and ascending thence by a branch hillroad to the right, high on to a spur of Randolph Mountain.
From this silent and sequestered spot, one gains a very
impressive view of Madison and Adams, lifting their gray
spires in airy aspiration, far into the blue sky, with the scars
of ages of storms and slides riving their weary forms. Below them and within open the cavernous depths of King's
Ravine, paved with the ruins of dismantled ridges, and' sheltering masses of profound shadow.
BERLIN FALLS.

About six miles from Gorham, up the valley, is the point
where the Androscoggin indulges in its first notable episode

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

113

of passion, and preludes its later adventures at Rumford,
Lewiston, and Brunswick. Here the outpour of the Umbag o g and Rangeley Lakes and the distant Magalloway region,
marches swiftly through the Caudine Forks of imprisoning
rocky cliffs, descending a hundred feet within a mile of advance, in white and boiling rapids, the domes of dark water
fringed by frettings of foam, and battering the boulders in a
determined way which insures victory in time. A footbridge crosses the chasm from cliff to cliff, nearly over the
deepest plunge of the stream, and affords a vantage-ground
from which to view the varying phases of the falls, above
and below. Near this* point is a rather unpromising village,
given to lumber-manufacturing, and containing the MountForist House. The drive thence to Milan Corner is about
eight miles long, and affords some famous views of the
W h i t e Mountains, which have been often reproduced by
artists.
T h e Alpine Cascades are about four miles from Gorham,
and are approached by crossing the Androscoggin on a light
foot-bridge, in full sight of a picturesque cataract. T h e visitor then pays a toll at the Novanglian chalet near the begin^
ning of the path, and perchance buys also peanuts, gum-drops,
and cheroots. T h e ledges and crags on the mountain-side
beyond afford a very eligible site for a w r aterfall; and after
heavy rains the Alpine Cascades are well worthy of a visit.

A LIST

OF THE

HOTELS AND BOARDING-HOUSES
WHITE MOUNTAINS, AND IN THE WINNEPESAUKEE
AND SEBAGO REGIONS.
With their Proprietors' Names, the Ntmiber of Guests accommodated^
the Distances from Railroad or Steamboat Stations, and
the Rates of Board by the Week.

ALBANY, N.H.
Houses and Proprietors.
J . M. Shackford

Quests. Miles.
16
13

Dollars.
5.00-8.00

ALBANY, Me.
Albany-Basin H o u s e

.

.

.

15

12

....

Winnipiseogee H o u s e (D. E . W h e e l e r ) * 250
Glendale H o u s e (John M. P e r k i n s ) . . . 50

\
\

10.00-12.00
6.00

2
..

5.00-6.00
7.00-14.00

Bartlett H o u s e ( F r a n k George) . . .
50 Near.
{See Lower
Bartlett.)
Cave Mountain H o u s e ( E . A . Stevens)
40 N e a r .

7.00-10.00

ALTON BAY.

ASHLAND.
Chestnut-Hills H o u s e (Alden Bowles)
Squam-Lake H o u s e

.

18
30

BARTLETT.
7.00-12.00

BELMONT.
H i g h l a n d H o u s e , L a d d Hill
Brown's H o t e l (A. W . Brown)
E l m H o u s e (J. Badger)
Belmont H o u s e ( I r a Mooney)
Highland-View H o u s e ( W . P .
114

. . . .
. . . .

25
30
12
. . . .
20
Clinton) . 3 5

..
..
..
..

5.00
5.00
6.00
7.00-9.00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

BENTON.
Houses and Proprietors.
G. W. Mann.
O. L. Mann
C. B. Kayser

"5

Guests. Miles. Dollars.
. . 5.00-7.00
6
. . 5.00-7.00
4
6

BERLIN FALLS.
Wilson House
Cascade House

30
75

BETHEL, M E .
Bethel House (W. F. Lovejoy & Sons) . 75
Elms House (Mrs. T. B. Gerrish) . . .
40
D. W. Towne .
25
Locke Mountain House (Mrs. P. H. Locke) 40
S. B. Twitchell .
.25
Spring Grove (A. W. Valentine) . . .
25
Cherry Cottage (A. Twitchell) . . . .
16
Artists' Home (C. F. Bartlett) . . . .
30
S. F. Bartlett
30
S. L. Gould
20
Maple Grove (J. G. Rich)
20
Alpine Cottage (A. Chandler) . . . .
50
BETHLEHEM.
See also Maplewood*
Sinclair House (Durgin & Co.) . . . . 350
Strawberry-Hill House (J. K. Barrett). . 100
Mt. Agassiz House (Horatio Nye) . . .
65
Avenue House (C. M. Bean) .
. . .
60
Highland House (J. H. Clark) . . . . 100
Bellevue House (David S. Phillips). . . 100
Prospect House (Mrs. George W. Phillips) 85
Ranlet House (D. W. Ranlet) . . . . 100
Centennial House (L. M. Knight)
. . 75
Mt. Washington House (C. L, Bartlett) . 70
Howard House (F. E. Derbyshire) . . .
60
Turner House (James N. Turner) . . .
75
Bethlehem House
45
Alpine House (C. H Clark)
65
Hillside House (C. F. Davis) .
. . .
50
Blandin House (A. W. Blandin) . . .
40
Sanborn's Cottage (W. E. Sanborn) , . 15
The Uplands (F. H. Abbott) . . . .
80
Heath Cottage (C. E. Bunker).
. . .
15
Gardner Cottage (R. H. Gardner) , . . 15
Broadview (G. L. Gilmore)
. . . .
40
Sunset House (Mrs. C. E. Bradley) . . 40
Blair's House (J. C. Blair)
. . . .
60

4.OO-17.00
6.00
7.00-14.00
6.00-10.00
7.00-12.00
5.0O-7.00
7.00-12.00
5.00-7.00
7.00
7.00-12.00
8 00-10.00
7.00-ic.oo
7.00-10.00

17.50-24.50
10 00-16.00
8.00-12.00
8.00-15.00
18.00-30.00
7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00
15.00-20.00
8.00-12.00
10.00-14.00
10.00-12.00
8.00-15.00
8.00-15.00
9.00-17.00
8.00-14.00
7.00-10,00
5.00-7.00
8.00-15.00
8.00-15.00
7.00
7.00-12.00 '
10.00-15.00
7.00-10.00

n6

WHITE-MOUNTAIN^

Houses and Proprietors.
Farm Cottage (A. S. Phillips) . . . .
Sportsman's Home (Allen Thompson)
Elm House (Mrs. Russell Hodgdon)
Greenfield House (J. M. Phillips) . . .
Swett's Cottage (S. P. Swett) . . . .
Cedar Cottage (Mrs. F. J. Wilder) .
Rowe's Cottage (John M. Rowe) . . .
Vista House (F. Glazier)
Plummer House (C. G. White & Son)
Echo Cottage (H. Smith)
Georgia Cottage (J. B. Bean) . . . .
Woodman Cottage (E. A. Higginson)

GUIDE-BOOK.
Guests. Miles. Dollars.
20
1
5.00
.15
7.00-9.00
.25
7.00-10.00
20
10.00-14.00
20
8.00-10.00
. 12
7 00
20
7.00-9.005.00-7.00
25
7.00-10.00
.30
7.00-10 00
15
7.00
20
\
8.00-10.00
.20

BRIDGEWATER.
Webster Farms (D/M. Webster) . . .
25
Mrs. W. R. Webster
25
Lake-View House
60
BRIDGTON, M E .
See Mount Pleasant.
Bridgton House (M. L. Mason)
Cumberland House (Bacon Sisters)
Ridge Cottage (W. S. Kimball) . . .
20

\\
\\

U

BRUNSWICK SPRINGS, V T .
Brunswick-Springs House (Henry Smith) 100
2
BRYANT'S POND, M E .
Glen Mountain House (A. Dudley) . . 50 Near.
Lakeside Cottage (O. F. Bowker)
. . 15
CAMPTON.
Blair House (J. C. Blair)
60 Near.
C A M P T O N VILLAGE.
Willey House (Mrs. Sheldon C. Willey). 20
Maple wood House (J. W. Morrison) . . 25
Highland House (Arthur B. Cook) . . 25
Charles Cutter . . . . . . . . .
20
Stephen 1). Kinsman
15
Village-Farm House (Frederic A. Mitchell)
20
Dr. W. A. Smith
10
Webster Farm (Charles G. Webster) . 10
Hillside House (Frank Chase) . . . .
45
Daymon House (Warren Daymon) . . 12
Brook-Farm House (George Foss)
. . 20
Sunset-Hill House (W. W. Buchanan) . 50

6.00-10.00
6.00-10.00
7.00-10.00

7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
7.00-10.50
6.00-8.00
6.00
700.-10.00
7.00
7.00-10.00
6.00-7.00
7.00
7.00
7.00
7.00
7.00-10.00
5.00-6.00
5.00-6.00
7.00-12.00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

CARROLL.
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles.
Pine-Grove House . . . . . .
. . .
Hardy's Cottage (D. M. Hardy)

117
Dollars.

CENTER HARBOR.
125 Miles from Boston—Steamers from Alton Bay and Wolfboro.
Senter House (J. L. Huntress & Son) . 250
20.00-28.00
Moulton House (S. F. Emery) . . . .
75
8.00-12.00
Lake House (Mrs. Almon Benson) . . 25
5.00-7.00
7.00-16.00
W. A. Page (Boarding-House) . . . .
25
5.00-7.00
Lakeside Cottage (Mrs. A. M. Graves) . 15
7.00-10.00
Willow Cottage (Stephen Wentworth) . 25
6.00-8.00
C. H. Weeks
10
6.00-8.00
Hillside Cottage (T. C. Gordon) . . .
10
6.00-10.00
Brown Cottage (B. F. Wentwoith) . . 18
6.00-10.00
Locust Cottage (B. F. Kelsea) . . . .
25
5.00-7.00
Sunset House (H. C. Sturtevant) . . .
40
6.00
Bean Farm (Mrs. A. M. Bean & Son) . 12
6.00
Red-Hill Cottage (F. F. Green) . . .
10
6.00
Cambridge House (R. D. Green) . . .
15
6.00
Lake Cottage (13. F. Moulton)
. . .
10
C H O C O R U A LAKE.
Chocorua-Lake House
40
Chocorua House (J. N. Piper) . . . .
20
COLEBROOK.
Parsons House (E. Small)
10
Monadnock House (T. G. Rowen). . . 100
Adelia Lyman
10
Table-Rock Cottage (G. A. Gleason) . 10
E. C. Rogers
. 6
H. Bedell
15
D. Graham
15
D. Cummings
10
Eben Noyes .
10
Mrs. J. C. Marshall
10
W. G. Lyman
.12
Mrs, Phcebe Cooper
10
J. W. Cooper
io
S. S. Gilman
8
Mrs. E. P. Tibbetts
6
W. H. Whipple
8
G. G. Leavitt
6
Mrs. D. P. Robie
6
E. C. Wilder
4
Camp Diamond, Diamond Pond (M. B.
Noyes)
30

7.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
J

54

7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00
5.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00
5 00-8.00

5.,oo~7.oo
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00
10

7.00-12.00

n8

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK

CONWAY.
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles.
ISO

Pequawket House (D. E. Pendexter).
Merrill House (O. Merrill)

.

8.00-10.00
7.00
5.OO-7.0O

i

4.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-10.50
7.00-10.00
7.00-IO.00

5° Near.
30

CONWAY CENTER.
Centre House (H. W. Richardson) . . 3°
Putman Cottage (David Putman) , . . 15
2
William E. Chase
5
Dundee Mt. House (David Wakefield) . 25
Atherton Farm (John Stott)
. . . . 2S
CRAWFORD HOUSE.
Barron, Merrill & Barron (C. H. Merrill) 4 0 0
DIXVILLE NOTCH.
Dix House (Mrs. George Parsons). . . 1 0 0

3
3

21.00-28.00
10

EAST TILTON
Lake-Side House (Henry Q. Dalton). . 75
Sumner House (Nelson H. Earle)

.

.

Lake-View House (James Sanborn)
Maplewood House (M. W. Bennett)
Vineyard Cottage (H. B. Philbrook)
Belmont Cottage (A. J. Young) .

.
.
.
.

.
.
.
.

40
40
30
30
25
20
14

30
10

EAST WAKEFIELD.
Oak-Hill Farm (A. Wentworth) . . . 10
Side-Hill Farm (J. C. Philbrook . . . 15
Glen Farm (George W. Seward) . . . 10
12
10
20

West-Newfield House (A. H. Davis) .
Davis House (W. F. Merrow) . . . . 3°
Ballard's Retreat (J. Ballard)
. . . . 10
Sunnyside House (S. Kershau). , . . 2 0
Echo Lake Cottage (Mrs. S. C. Davis) . 2 0
Province Mountain House (J. Brooks) . IS
Ridge Farm House (P. C. Young) . . . 2 0
Mountain House (T. E. Mitchell) . . . 25
Carleton House ( J. S. Carleton) . . • 2 0
Province Lake House (J. F. Wentworth) 30

Dollars.

*

.,
..
3'
4
..
..
..
2*

3

3
4

i
5

EAST PARSONSFIELD, M E .
8
Forest-Lake House (C. C. Varney) . . So

7.00-12.00

5.OO-6.00
5.00-6.00
7.00-12.00
5.00-6.00
5.OO-7.00
5.00-6.00
5.OO-6.00
5.00-6.00
5.00-7,00
5.00-6.00
3.50-400
3 50-4.00
3.50-4.00
3.00-4.00
3.50-4 00
4.00-5 00
4.00-5.00
3.00-4.00
4.00-5.00
5.00-7.00
4.OO-5.00
4.00-5.00
4.00-5.00
4.00-5.00
5.OO-7.00

7.OO-12.00

j

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK :

EFFINGHAM,
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles.
J. C. Leavitt

119
Dollars.

ELLSWORTH.
FABYANS.
Fabyan House (Barron, Merrill, & Barron ?
O. G. Barron, Manager)
) 400
Mount-Pleasant House (Barron, Merrill, 1
& Barron ; O. G, Barron, Manager . ) 350
White Mountain House (R. D. Roun- i

Day, 4.50

..! 21.00-25.00

Day, 3.50

..{ 12.50-21.00
Day, 2 50
. . ! 10.50-15.00

|

L

FRANCONIA.
See also Sugar Hill.
Elmwood House (S. D. Morgan) . . .
50
Lafayette House (Richardson Brothers)
75
Mountain View House (Mrs. Horace
Bald-Mountain House (James Quimby) .
Echo Farm House (Jason Comey) . .
PhilHps House (W. B. Phillips; . , .
Brooks Farm (Mrs. Horace Brooks) . .
Mount-Cannon House (W. H. Brooks) ,
House of Seven Gables (F. V. D. Garret-

25
25
75
20
20

Mount Jackson House (Alvin Grimes) . 40
Forest-Hills Hotel (Priest & Dudley) . 175
Goodnow House (E. H. Goodnow & Co ) 275

5
7

7.00-10 00
7.00-10.00

6
6
8

7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
7,00-9.00
7.00-ro.oo
5.00-7.00

10
10
6
9
4

FRANCONIA NOTCH.
Profile House (Taft & Greenleaf)
. . 600
Flume House (Elliott Bros., managers) . 150

3

7.00-10.00
5.00-8.00
15.00-21.00
8.00-12.00
21.00-28.00
14.00-17.50

FREEDOM.
Mr. Towle's

.

FRYEBURG, M E .
Fryeburg House (M. P. Johnson) . . . 75

I

1
1

• Walker House (J. B. Dresser, Jr.,) . .
Pine-Grove House (H. Andrews) . .
Elm Farm (F. W. Powers) . . . .
Woodlawn Cottage (Mrs. J. W. Walker)

40
12
20
15

3
4

5.00-10.00
5.00-8.00
5.00-8.00
5.00-r 0.00
6.00
4.00-7.00
6.00-9.00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

FRYEBURG, ME.—CONTINUED.

Houses and Proprietors.
Maple Cottage (Thomas W. Hutchins)
Elmwood (P. B. <c E. P. Hutchins) .
f
Pine-Hill Cottage (Mrs. John N. Page)

Guests. Miles.
.15
..
. 15
..
.10
..

Dollars.
5.00-7.00
6.00
5.00

GILEAD, M E .
C. Gammon
Mrs. D. C. Sary
C. R. Milliken & Co

15
20
GLEN HOUSE.
500

\

3.50-5.00
5.00-7.00

8

GLEN S T A T I O N .
Conelius Stilphen
20 Near.
H. C. Fernald
25 Near.
GORHAM, N H.l
Grove Cottage (Chas. E. Philbrook
. 25
Eagle House (L. L. Jackson) . .
• 5o
Randolph Hill House (H. G. Snow)
. 100
Alpine House (G. D. Stratton)
. 200 Near.
Willis Cottage (Mrs. Willis) . .
. 40
Woodbine Cottage
. 20
Riverside Cottage (Mrs. E. C. Bent)
60
Lary House (A. G. Lary) . . .

6.00-9.00
7.00-10.00
6.00-10.00

3.50-5.00
10.00-20.00
7.00-14.00
5.00-8.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-8.00
6.00-10.00

GROVETON.
Melcher House (Tibbets & McNally)
. 30
Union House (P. L. Stark)
. . . .
30
Eagle Hotel (E. M. Tibbets) . . . .
30

4.00-10.00
4.00-7.00
4.00-10.00

GUILDHALL, V T .
Essex Hotel (C. E. Hartshorn). . . .
50

5.00-8.00

HARRISON, M E
50 Near.
Elm House (David Kneeland) . . .
20 Near.
Idlewild Cottage (Mrs. Jos. Fogg). .

6.00
7.00- •10.00

HART'S LOCATION.
Willey House (Dutton & Wilson) . . .
35
HAVERHILL.
Exchange Hotel (Scott Fellows) . . .
Maple Cottage (D. H. Stevens) . . .
Perley Ayer
Burrage Clifford
J. Woodward
F. P. Currier
N. H. Batchelder

40
10
10
8
10
12
10

7.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

Houses and Proprietors.
Mrs. A. O. Messer
Mrs. L. A. Paige
MrSi John Merrill
Lyman Buck
G. L. Wilson
Z. V. Webster
George H. Stevens

121

Guests. Miles. Dollars.
10
5.00-7.00
12
5.00-7.00
.12
5.00-7.00
6
5.00-7.00
6
5.00-7.00
6
5.00-7.00
12
5.00-7.00

HIRAM BRIDGE.
Mount-Cutler House (Will F. Greene)
50 Near.
Wadsworth Hall (Mrs. J. P. Hubbard)
20
1
Spring Mansion (Marshall Spring) .
15
1
Almon Young
15 Near.

10.00-12.00
5.00-10.00
5.00-10.00
5.00-10.00

HOLDERNESS.
Asquam House (Leon H. Cilley) . . .
75
Asquam Cottage (J. H. Morse). . . .
16
H. H. Piper
12
Lake-Shore Cottage (G. W. Mooney) . 1 2
Mrs. Bruce Piper . . . . . . . .
10
Camp Chocorua (for boys only) . . . .
30
Camp Algonquin (for boys only) . . .
20
Lake-Farm House (C. L. True) . . .
16

4
..
..
..
..

12.00-16.00
7.00
7.00
7.00
5.00-8.00

INTERVALE.
Intervale House (Stephen Mudgett &
Sons)
300 Near. 10.50-21.00
Pendexter Mansion (Mrs. C. C. Pendexter) 50
,.
8.00-14.00
Bellevue (J. A. Barnes)
80
.. 10.00-15.00
Idlewild (C. R Dinsniore)
30
..
7.00-8.00
Langdon House ([ L. Pe.ndexter)
. . 40
...
7.00-14.00
Maple Villa (George E. Gale) .
Pequaket House (Mrs. H. S. Vickery) . 4 0
..
7.00-10.00
Clarendon (Weeks & Bruce) . . . . 100 Near. 8.00-21.00
ISLAND POND, V T .
Stewart House (William A. Richardson). 150
JACKSON.
Thorn Mountain House ) ,r
M
r

rr„TX a11

S^ e —>

20
0

Jackson Falls House (Trickey Brothers). 75
Glen'EUis House (S. N. Thompson) . . 125
Iron.Mountain House (W. A. Meserve) . 75
Gray's Inn (C. W. Gray)
75
Eagle-Mountain House (C. E. Gale) . . 70
Eagle-Cliff Cottage (W. E. Elkins) . . 18

..

9.00-14.00

\i

i i d ' y 4.00-5.00
i 14.06-30.06

J¥

3*
3
2\

4
4
4

12.00-21.00
8.00-15.00
7.00-12.00
7.00-12.00
8.00-12.00
5.00-7.00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

JACKSON-CONTINUED.
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles.
J . L. Wilson
12
5
Gray's Cottage ( W . G. Gray) . .
20
4
H a w t h o r n e C o t t a g e (J. E . Meserve)
25
3
Hillside Cottage (S. Meserve) . .
15
5
C a r t e r - N o t c h H o u s e (J. Perkins) ,
15

Dollars.
6.00
6.00-8.06
8.00-9.00
6.00-9.00

JEFFERSON.
T h e W a u m b e k (Plummer & Porter)
. 200
Starr-King H o u s e (Plumrner & Porter) . 80
Plaisted H o u s e (P. C. Plaisted) . . . 1 2 5
Jefferson-Hill H o u s e ( E . E . Bedell) . . 100
Maple H o u s e (F. Collins) . . . . .
50
Stalbird H o u s e (Levi Stalbird). . . .
25
W o o d w a r d Cottage (Mrs. C. A . Woodward)
20
Cold-Spring H o u s e ( W . H . Crawford) . 30
Grand-View H o u s e (Mrs. B. Tuttle) . . 50
Hillside F a r m N . M. D a v e n p o r t )
. . 30
Willow Cottage (J. A. Hicks) . . . .
10
W a u m b e k C o t t a g e (S. S. H i b b a r d ) . . 20
Sunnyside H o u s e (C. L. Plaisted) . . .
25
U n i o n H o u s e ( H i g h t Brothers)
. . • 3o
Cloverdale C o t t a g e (John Palmer). . . 20

2\
i\
2\
z\
2\
i\

17.50-25.00
8.00-12.00
8 00-12.OO
16.00-15.00
12.00-15.00
6 00-10.00

2\
4
3

7.50-8.00
7. co
7.00-12.00
7.00
7.00
7.00-12. CO
7.00-8.00
5.00-IO.OO
5.OO-7.OO

JEFFERSON HIGHLANDS.
M o u n t - A d a m s H o u s e (J. W . Crawshaw)
60
Crawford H o u s e (G. A. Crawford) . . 50
Pliny-Range H o u s e (George W . Crawford
& Son)
. 6 0
Highland H o u s e (G. A . & G. L . P o t t l e ) . 60

7.00-I2.00
8.00-12.00
d\

6.OO-9.OO
7.00-10.00

1
1
1
1
\\
2

I2.00-l8.00
IO.50-l8.00
I2.00-l8.0O
7.OO-I4.OO
7.OO-IO.5O
5.OO-7.OO

KEARSARGE VILLAGE.
Merrill H o u s e ( F . W . & H . W . Russell). 40
T h e R i d g e (Dow & Hill)
roo
Russell Cottage ( F . W . & H . W . Russell) 50
Orient H o u s e (Levi W h e e l e r & Son) . . 40
F a r m Cottage
15
Arcadian Cottage ( O . & E . M c l n t i r e ) . . 25

LACONIA.
Eagle H o t e l
Willard H o u s e
Laconia H o t e l
Vue de l ' E a u (Mrs. C. C . W e e k s )
Bay-View H o u s e (S. L . Taylor)
L a k e Cottage (C. O. J o h n s o n ) .
Elmwood H o u s e (John Blaisdell)
E l m - F a r m (Prescott Ranlett) .

80
100
100
. .
. .
. .
. .

.
.
.
.

50
30
20
20

7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00
6.OO-7.OO
5.OO

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

123

Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles.
Mountain-View House (Orville M. Smith), 20
..
H. O. Dalton.
.20
..
Point Pleasant (L. A. Ladd)
10
..
John Chapman
6
..
Maplewood Farm (M.W.Bennett) . . 25
*.
N. S. Davis . . . . . . . . . .
30
..
Dr. Folsom (Belmont) . . . . . . .
6
..

Dollars.
5.00-7.00
....
7.00
....
5.00-7.00
....
....

LAKE VILLAGE.
Mount Belknap House

50

..

7.00-12.00

LANCASTER.
Lancaster House (Ned. A. Lindsey& Co.) 150
Hillside Cottage (W. L. Rowel 1) . . .
40
Williams House (J. M. Hopkins) . . . 50
Elm Cottage (B. F. Hunking) . . . .
20
Woodbine Cottage (W. C. Spaulding) . 1 0
Edward Spaulding
. . 15
Mount Prospect House (W. H. Smith) . 40
Maple-Grove Farm (G. E, Lasher). . . 15
Mrs. W. A. Hicks
10

..
..
..
..
..
.'.
..
..
..

10.00-17.50
7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00
....
7.00
8.00-12.00
7.00-10.00
7.00-10.00

LISBON.
See also Sugar Hill.
Brigham's Hotel (S. H. Brigham) . . . 50
Hillside Home (Edwin Knight) . . .
30
Dearborn House (L. A. Pierce) . . .
25
W. C. Spaulding
15
Sunset-Hill House . . <
40
Bishop House (John Bishop) . . . .
30
Pearl-Lake House (C. E. Woolson) . . 20
Bluff House (A. H. Elliot)
20
Elm House (E. W. Bartlett) . . . . ^o
Breezy-Hill House (Wells & Woolson) . 100
Maple-Hill Farm

..
..
..
..
..
2
..

6.00-8.00
7»oo
6.00-10.00
....
....
7.00

£
..
..

6.00-10.00
10.00-15.00
....

LITTLETON.
Oak-Hill House (Farr & Jarvis) . . . 150
Thayer's Hotel (H. L. Thayer & Sons) . 100
Chiswick Inn (Alex. W. Weeks) . . . 100
Littleton House (H. A. Benson) . . . 40
Mrs. Jefferson Hosmer
10
Sunny-Side House (Aaron D. Fisher) . 14
Mountain Home (E. D. Sawyer) , . . 35
Elm Cottage (F. R. Glover) . . . .
20
Echo Cottage (George Abbott) . . .
12
Wheeler-Hill House (G. & E. O. Wheeler) 30
The Maples (Dr. M. F. Young) . . .
12

..
..
I
..
..
2
..
..
..
..
..

9.00-15.00
10.00-17.50
12.00-15.00
7.00-10.00
....
5.00-6.00
7.00-10.00
7.00
5.00-7.00
6.00-7.00
7.00-10.00

124

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK,

LITTLETON--CONTINUED.

Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles. Dollars.
A. R. Burton
15
Alexander Mclntyre
15
Mrs. A. M. Cobb
10
5.00-7.00
Quimby House (Allen Quimby) . . . 15
7.00-10.00
C. D. Tarbell
id
LONG ISLAND (LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE).

Long-Island House (George K. Brown) 40
Island Home (Levi Blake)
. . . .60
Tip-Top House (M. D. Wentworth) . . 8

...
2
..

7.00-12.00
7.00-12.00
6.00-8.00

LOVELL, M E .
American House (M. K. Bemis) . . . 40
Fairview House (D. McDaniels) . . . 10

10
10

6.00-8.00
6.00-8.00

LOWER BARTLETT.
East-Branch House (Pitman Brothers) . 125
Pequawket House (Mrs. H. S. Vickery) 75
Pitman Hall (Mrs. Walter Pitman) . . 50

..
..
..

8.00-15.00
7.00-12.00
7.00-12.00

2

8.00-10.00

LUNENBURG, V T .
Lunenburg Heights (W. A. White) . . 50
Levi Barnard
10
S. T. Hale
10
J. L. Bell
8
Maple-Grove House (R. Thomas)
. . 10
MADISON.
Prospect House (Mrs. A. N*. Lanson) . 20
Madison House (J. C. Ferren)
. . . 16
Silver-Lake House (Mrs. A. J. Forrest) 25
Churchill ( N . Churchill)
25

2
\\
\
4

5.00
5.00
5.00-7.00
5.00

MAPLEWOOD, N. H.
The Maplewood

(Ainslie & McGilvray) 400

Maplewood Cottage (Charles H. Davis)

100

\

Day, 4.50
17.50 and
( upward.
( Day, 3.00
< 10.00-18.00

MARSHFIELD.
Marshfield House

50

M E L V I N VILLAGE.
Bald Peak House (Jacob Hodgdon) . . 14
Lake Side Cottage C. H. Shepherd) . . 10

6.00
6.00-10.00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

125

MEREDITH.
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles. Dollars.
Prospect House (H. W. Lincoln) . . .
60
3
7.00-8.00
Highland House (M. C. Pease) . . .
15
..
5 00
Elm House (H. H. Piper)
25
..
7.00-10.00
MILAN.
Hiram Elinwood
I. H. Fogg (West)

..

....

MILTON.
Phenix House (H. G. Wentworth) . . 25
Riverside House (C. H. Downes)
. . 30
Lydia Varney
16
Robert Mathes
18
Mrs. E. A. Fernald
8
George I. Jordan
8
Mrs. H. M. Drew
8
G. C. S. Wentworth
.
8
I. W. Duntley
. 10

r
\
\
\
|
|
|
\
\

MOULTONBOROUGH.
The Hall, Ossipee M't Park (B. F. Shaw) 30
Whiteface House (O. Ambrose) . . .
30
Moultonborough House (J. M. Smith) . 1 5
Union House (A. P. Jacklard)
. . .
15
James C. Pitman
15
Joel F. Cotton
6
A. P. Lacland . . . . . . . . .
8
Mrs. Q. M. Bean
6
Norman Clement
6

.. 12 00-15.00
5
5.00-7.00
..
5.00-7.00
..
7.00
5
5.00-7.00
5
5.00-7.00
5
5.00-7.00
1
5
5 00-7.00
..

7.00
7.00
5 00
5.00
5.00
5.00
5 00
5 00
5 00

M O U N T PLEASANT, M E .
Mount Pleasant House (C. E. Gibbs) . 75
7

10.00-18.00

MOUNT WASHINGTON.
200
..

I>ay, 5.00

Summit House

NAPLES, M E .
Elm House (N. A. Church)
15
NEWBURY, V T .
Montebello Mineral Springs
40
Sawyer's Hotel
25
H. W. Bailey, 2d
io
Richard Doe
10
E. B. Chamberlain
E. H. Farnham
20

..
..
..

8.00-10.00
8.00-10.00

..
..

....
....
500-8.00

NORTH BRIDGTON, M E .
Lake House (J. B. Martin)
20
..

7.00-10.00

126

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

NORTH CONWAY.
(See also Intervale, Kearsarge, and Lower Bartlett.)
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles, Dollars.
300 N e a r . 14.00-25.00
Kearsarge House (Porter & Tavlor)
8.00-17.50
Sunset Pavillion (M. L Mason). .
150
8.00-17.00
McMillan House (F. S. Plummer)
100
7.00-14.00
Artist's Falls House (Aug. Eastman)
75
7.00-14.00
100
North Cbtiwav House (L. J. Ricker)
Russell Cottages (P. W. & H. W.
7.00-12.00
120
Russell)
7.00-14.00
The Cliff (li. J. Ricker, manager).
75
6.00-8.00
Randall House (J. T. Randall) .
50
7.00-12.00
Eastman House (Alfred Eastman)
75
7.00
Echo Farm (Levi Seavey) . . .
30
8 00-14.00
Center Villa (R. Lifcchrieid). . .
60
7.00-10.00
Moat Mountain House (T. C. Eastman) 30
NORTH HAVERHILL.
Eagle Hotel (II. W. Metcalf) . . . .
25
G. A. Carr
8
T. B. Jackson
8
S. T. Pennock
6
Samuel Woodbury
6
NORTH SANBORNTON
J. E. Mudgett (Winnesquam Lake.) . . 10
NORTH STRATFORD.
Williard House (George H. Hilliard). . 75
Union House
50
H. B. Hinman
10
Percy House (J. W. Tibbets) . . . .
25
Brunswick-Springs House (Henry Smith), 100
NORTHUMBERLAND.
(See Groveton.)
NORTH WOODSTOCK.
Deer-Park House (Buchanan & Willis
1*
60
Fair-View House (A. W. Sawyer).
Russell House (G. F. Russell) . .
75
i
1
Mountain-View House (S. S. Sharon
60
3
Parker House ^Curtis L. Parker) .
1
25
Rive-View House (E. A. Sawyer).
20
Elm House (R.J. Darling) . . .
TO
Dearborn House (E. L.Dearborn).
35
Tuttle House (J. W. E. Tuttle). .
2
15
10
James Darling
2
East Branch House (Dura P. Pollard)
25
Cascade House (C. H. Russell . .
25
i
Inn-Ett(W. L. E.Hunt)
. . . .
20 1 *

8.00-12.00
6.00-8.00
5 00-6.00
5.00-6.00
5.00-6.00
5.00-6.00
7.00-14.00
6.00
7.00-10.00
7.00-10.50

7.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
6.00-8.00
6.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
6.00-7.00
7.00-10.00

....
. . .i.

7.00
6.00-12.00
6.00-12.00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

127

ORFORD.
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles. Dollars.
Elm House
, .
OSSIPEE.
(See West Ossipee and Chocorua Lake.)
Pine River House (J. E. Beasham) . . 40
7 00-10.00
H. Nichols
10
1
3.50-5.00
J . E . Canney
10
4.00-5.00
H. T. Brintnall
20
5.00-6.00
3
Cottage House (Ossipee Center) , . . 25
7.00
Carroll House (E. P. Allen)
75 Near. 7.oo-io\oo
PLYMOUTH.
Pemigewassett House (B. W. Angell) . 300
H . S. Chase
20
Eben K. Smith
10
Little's Hotel (G. W. Little)
50
Rose Lawn (O. C. Foss)
20
William G. Flanders
25
RANDOLPH.
Ravine House (L. M. Watson). . . .
Mount-Crescent House (R. I. Leighton).
RUMNEY.
C . C . Smart
Mrs. J. L. Spalding
George P. French
O. W. Stevens
T. G. Stevens
C. C. Craig
J. W. Wallace
Richard Clark (West Plymouth) . . .
Maple Cottage (G. H. Annis) . . . .
Daisy Cottage (R. B. Clark)
E. G. Doe

14.00-17.50

75
40

8.00-12.00
7.00-12.00

12
10
10
12
8
10
8
12
8
8

SANDWICH
Sandwich House (11. F. Dorr) . . .
30
Pleasant House (J. C. Burleigh) . .
10
Mr. Beede
Albert Fogg
Burleigh Hoyt
9
Diamond Ledge House (Samuel H. Burleigh)
(Centre Sandwich)
25
Mr. Quimby
Mr. Watson
Maple Ridge Farm (S. D. Wiggin) . . 30
Glen Cottage (William McCrillis) . . 25
Maple House (Centre) (T. Burleigh) . . 25

5.00-8.00
5 00-8.00

9
7
12
12
11

5.00-8.00
4.00-8.00
5.00-8.00
5.00-10.00

128

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

SEBAGO LAKE.
Houses and Proprietors.
' Guests. Miles. Dollars.
Lake Sebago House (Kneeland and
Stanley)
75 Near. 7.00-1000
Irving House (E. Libbey)
36
..
3.00-5.00
L. S. Davis
20
..
3.00-5.00
Lake-View House (North Sebago) . .
(A. K. P. Ward)
20
..
4 00-6.00
Bachlor House (No. Sebago) (L. Bachlor) . .
..
4.00-6.00
SHELBURNE.
Winthrop House (C. C. Hebbard) . . 50
Shelburne Spring House (S. J. Morse) . 5 0
Gates Cottage (Miss S.A.Gates)
. . 40
Philbrook Cottage (A. E. Philbrook) . 2 5
Grove Cottage (C. E. Philbrook) . . . 50
SUGAR H I L L .
Goodnow House (E. H. Goodnow & Co.) 275
Sunset-Hill House (Bowles & Hoskins) 275
Cedar Cottage (Nathan Whipple) . . .
20
Echo ^arm (Jason Comey)
25
Sugar-Hill House (Hiram Noyes) . . 25
Phillips House (W. B. Phillips) . . .
75
Hillside Farmhouse (Leonard Smith)
Elm Cottage (L. & S. Bowles) . . . .
30
Mapleside House (Lyman Aldrich) , . 25
Grand-View House
< . • 25
Hotel Look-Off (Hiram Noyes & Son) . 20c

..
.t
..
..
..

7.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
7.00-10.00
5.00-7.00
7.00-10.00

5
8
..
..
..
..

8 00-12.00
12.00-17.50
5.00
7.00-9.00

..
..
..
5

7.00-10.00
....
7-oo
5.00-7.00
7.00
5.00-13.00

TAMWORTH.
Joseph Gilman
Levi E. Remick
Troutdale (Mrs. L. M. Bragdon) . . .
30
N. H. Varney
30
S. H. Niekerson
Mrs. Lucy D. Blake
Wiggin House (A. E. Wiggin)
. . .
50

..

THORNTON.
George Foss
25
George Jenkins . „
10
Merrill House (William Merrill) . . .
40

..
..
4

....
....
6.00-8,00

TILTON.
Dexter House (Bryant & Taylor) . .
Brook Hill Farm (G. H. Brown) . .
James Chesley

..
..
••

••••

25
30
75

..
c.
5
4
4

,

....
....
5.00
....
4.00-5 00

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

I2g

TUFTONBOROUGH.
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles. Dollars.
Dana Palmer
10
5
....
Charles Ham
10
5
....
D. M; Smith
10
5
H. Hodgdon
10
5
....
TWIN-MOUNTAIN STATION.
Twin-Mountain House (Frank A. Cofran,
Manager) Opposite Station . . . . 300
.. 17.50-25.00
Pleasant-View House (Mrs. C. S. Miles) 25
..
5.00-7.00
Chase Cottage (Mrs. Dora Chase) . . 10
•£
5.00-7.00
Mt. Martha Cottage (S. W. Kelly) . . 24
i\
5.00-7.00
UNION.
Maple Ridge (John Kimball) . . . .
J. G. Stephens
A. G. Hall
J. H. Ferguson
Kimball Farm (J. W* Kimball) . . .
S. G. Chamberlain
C. B. Remick
Charles A. Reynolds
Charles Moulton
George C. Pike
E. W. Jenkins
Elm House ( J . C. Penny) . . . . .
BARTLETT.
Bartlett House (Frank George) . . .

40
2
20 Near.
15
..
30
3
20
2\
10
2
20
4
16
5
10
2
16
3^
12 Near.
15
..
50 Near.

WARREN.
Langdon House (L. H. French) . . .
25
Rev. R. W. Prescott
8
Merrill's Mountain House (Amos L.
Merrill)
30
Moosilauke House (John F. Thayer) . 100
Tip-Top House (Moosilauke) . . . .
50
WATERFORD, M E .
Waterford House (J. A. Drew) . . .
75
Pine-Grove House
Bear-Mountain House (L. Houghton)
Lake House (E. M. Dudley) . . . .
40

4 50-6.00
4.00-7.00
4.00-7.00
4.50-6.00
5.00
4.00-6.00
7.00
4.00-5.00
5.00-6.00
5.00
4.00-6.00
5.00-7.00
7.00-10.00

..
..
5
10

10.00- 12.00
Day, 3.00

..
..

7.00
....

..

5.00-8.00

12

8.00-10.00

WATERVILLE.
Silas B. Elliott

90
WENTWORTH.

Mrs. W. C. Pillsbury .

8

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

WEIRS.
Houses and Proprietors.
Guests, Miles. Dollars.
..
14.00-21.00
Lakeside Hotel (George W. Weeks) . . 2 0 0
..
12.OO-20.00
Hotel Sanborn (C. H. Woodman) . . 1 5 0
\
8.00-15.00
Winnecoette House (Geo. W. Weeks) . 60
6.00-IO.OO
Story's Cottage (D. B. Story)
. . . . So
6.OO-8.OO
Maple Cottage (Mrs. E. L. True). . . 2<>
5.OO-7.OO
Endicott House (S. C. Moore) . . . . 2 0
Heath & Brown
SO
•.
....
Winnepesaukee House (H. W. Gordon) So
.•
....
7.OO-IO.OO
Eagle Cottage (Mrs. George Mitchell) . 4 0
100
Weirs Cafe (F. W. Story)
European
700-10.00
Aquedocktan (Dennett & Brown). . . So
W E S T BETHEL.

..
WEST
T. J. Sanborn & Son
B. B. Southmayd.

CAMPTON.
75

7.00-10.00

W E S T OSSIPEE.
[See Chocorua Lake and Ossipee.)
Chocorua House (J. H. Nickerson)
So
E. A. Whitten . . . . . .
.
20
*
Waukameto (C. H. Remick) . .
4
25
Woodbine Cottage (N. H. Varney)
14
3*
Gilman's Hotel (Joseph Gilman) .
30
..
Chocorua Mountain (J. N. Piper) .
20
Wiggin House (A. E. Wiggin) . .
30
WEST THORNTON
JN.
Kendall House (A. H. Kendall) . . . 21
Burleigh House (J. C. Burleigh) . . . 12

*

7.00-10.00
7.00-9.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-7.00
5.00-8.00
5.00-7.00
7.00-10.50
6.00-8.00
6.00-8.00

WHITEFIELD.
Fiske House (H. W. Fiske)
. . . . 4 0 Near. 7.00-14.00
Mossy-Brook House ( I . M. Aldrich). . 4 0
1
7.00-10.00
Cherry-Mountain House (J. S. Fiske) . 4 0
Zk 7.00-12.00
Mountain-View House (W. F. Dodge &
100
2
8.00-15.00
Sons)
Carlton House (C. P. Carlton)
. . . 60
7.00-10.00
Charles Aldrich
15
....
Prospect Cottage (James A. Goodwin) . 2 0
5.00-7.00
Kimball-Hill House (H. J. Bowles) . . 25
5.00-8,00
WILLEY H O U S E S T A T I O N .
Willey House (George H. Moray). . . 75
6

1
GUIDE-BOOK,

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

131

WOLFBOROUGH.
Houses and Proprietors.
Dollars.
Guests. Miles.
T h e Pavilion (G. Hallidav) . . .
£ i2.qo-17.sO
Glendon H o u s e (G W . T h o m p s o n ) . . 150
8.OO-16-OO
Sheridan H o u s e ( T h o m a s Lees)
.
. IOO
. 7.OO-IO.OO
Bellevue H o u s e (Daniel H o r n ) . . • . 75
8.00-I2.00
Prospect H o u s e (J. B. Manning) . . . 50
....
1
6.O0-8.OO
6.OO-8.OO
6.OO-8.OO
]
y.oo-10.00
. . 80
6.00
Hillside Mansion (Charles S. Parris) . . 20
6 00-8.00
W . D . Hersey
6.00-8.00
15
Pebble Cottage ( W . B. Fullerton) • • J 5
r
6.00-8.00
Fair-View H o u s e (S. N . F u r b e r , jun ) . 20
5.00-7.00
Garland H o u s e ( S . M. Garland) . . . 25
5.00-7.00
Libbey F a r m (Curtis S. Edgerly) . . . 20
6.00-8.00
Edgerly F a r m (John A. Edgerly) . . . 20
4
6.00-8.00
G r o v e H o u s e (I. S. Lovering) . . . . 25
6.00-8.00
2i r
Fay F a r m ( S . W . Fay)
. . .
. . 20
6.00-8.00
2i \
Franklin (J. W . Avery) . .
. . 25
5.00-7.00
6.00-8.00
Bay View H o u s e (J. H . W a r r e n ,
. . 20
Maple Cottage (John L . Wiggin) . . . 20
6.00-8.00
E l m Cottage (Mrs. R. R. Davis) . . . 20
6.00-8.00
6.00-8.00
Rendell H o u s e ( W . B. Rendell) . . . 20
6.00-8.00
Stewart H o u s e (S. B. Stewart). . * . 20
.
6.00-8.00
Grand-View H o u s e (G. L. Morrison) . . 20
Willow H o u s e (S. A. Meader)
6.00-8.00
. • 25
.
D o e Cottage (Mrs. I r e n e Doe) . . • • is
6.00-7.00
Kimball F a r m (A. W . Kimball) . . . 20
5.00-6.00
2\
5.00-7.00
Rust Mansion (Mrs. H . Rust) . . • • 25
20
;
6.00-8.00
. . 20
6.00-7.00
H e r s e y H o u s e ( W . D . Hersey)
*
KO
6.00-8.00
D . D. Wingate
(5 7.00-10.00
L a k e - V i e w H o u s e (C. W . G i l m a n ) . . . 25

|
1

1
I

k

:

WOLFBORO
S a n b o r n H o u s e ( C . B . Remick)
E l m wood H o u s e (J. I. Sanborn)
Lovell H o u s e ( J . N . Fellows) .

J lJ N C T I O N .
. . . 60 N e a r.
. . . 2q
1
. . . 20
[

Pine Grove (Jona W . S a n b o r n ) .

.

7.00-9.00
7.00
5.00

I :r

.

.

20

5-oo

[
25

5.00
4.OO-7.OO

W O O D S T C )CK.
J, Bryant
5.00-8 i OO
Russell H o u s e ( C . H . Russell).

.

.

.

20

|
1
j
1

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

WOODSTOCK-CONTINUED.

Houses and Proprietors.
Guests. Miles. Dollars.
Parker House (Curtis L. Parker) . . .
20
..
6.00-10.00
Mountain-View House (S. S. Sharon). . 3 5
..
«...
J. W. E. Tuttle
15
James Darling . . , . . . > . . .
10
..
....
A. W£ Sawyer
3c
..
....
E. A. Sawyer (North)
10
..
....
Dearborn House (E. L. Dearborn). . . 15
..
....
D. P. Pollard
20
WOCJDSViLLE.
The Brunswick (I. K. George & Co.). . 5 0
Parker House (Hawkins & Nutting) . . 3 0

m

..
..

7.00-14.00
5.00-7.00

DISTANCES IN MILES
From the Chief Mountain and Lake Resorts to Neighboring Places of Interest.

ALTON BAY to
Alton, i£; Sheep Mountain, 3^; Prospect Hill, 4; Mount Belknap,
13$; Lougee Pond, 7 ; Merry-Meeting Lake, 7 ; Wolfeborough (by
road) 11, (by lake) 10.
BEKLIET F A L L S to
Gorham, 6 ; Alpine Cascades, i^-; Mount Forist, I-J-J Berlin
Heights, 4-I; Milan Corner, 8.
B E T H E L to
Paradise Hill, ij-; Sunset Rock, i | ; Songo Pond, 4 ; Bryant's
Pond, 9 ; Albany Basins, 12; Crystal Ledge, 12; Screw-Auger
Falls, 15; Rumford Falls, 22 ; Lake Umbagog, 27.
B E T H L E H E M to
Bethlehem Junction, 3 ; Cruft's Ledge, 2 ; Watson's Farm, 3 ;
Wallace Hill, 3$; Kimball Hill, 5 ; Sugar Hill, 7 i ; Profile House,
10; Whitefield, 8 ; Lancaster, 16; Jefferson Hill, 15 ; Littleton, 5 ;
Crawford House, 17 ; Mount Washington, 22.
B E I D G E T O N to
Bridgeton Landing, 1; Heights Circuit, 7; Waterford, 9; MoosePond Circuit, 8; Mount Pleasant, 10; Naples, 9; Wood's Pond,
3£; Fryeburg, 14 ; Hiram Junction, 16.
C A M P T O N V I L L A G E to
Mill-Brook Cascades, 6; West Campton, 2; Plymouth, $.
*33

134

WHITG-MOlfNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

C E N T E E HARBOR to
Sunset Hill, i ; Centre-Harbor Hill, i ; Red Hill, 6; Squam Lake,
2; Meredith, 5; Long Island, 8; Rollins Hill, 7; Centre Sandwich, 8; Ossipee Falls, 10; Plymouth, 14; West Ossipee, 18;
Melvin Village, 12 ; Moultonborough Corner, 5.
C O N W A Y CORNER to
North Conway, 5; Allard's Hill, 2; Washington Boulder, 1;
Buttermilk Hollow, 6; Echo Lake, q,; Potter's Farm, 7; Fryeburg, S; Chocorua Lake, 9 ; Swift-River Falls, 8; Champney
Falls, 10; Swift-River Intervale, 14; White-Mountain Mineral
Spring, 2.
THE CRAWFORD HOUSE to
The Gate of the Notch, \ ; the Profile, \ ; Gibbs's Falls, f; Beecher's Cascades, •£; Pulpit Rock, J ; Flume Cascade, f; Silver Cascade, 1; Elephant's Head, £; Mount Willard, 2 ; Hitchcock Flume,
2; Willey House, 3 ; Ripley Falls, 6; Arethusa Falls, 7^; Fabyan
House, 4; Mount Washington (by bridle-path) 8£, (by railroad)
13; North Conway, 27.
THE F A B Y A N HOUSE to
Mount-Pleasant House, •£; White-Mountain House, 1; Lower
Ammonoosuc Falls, i-£; Twin-Mountain House, 5; Base of
Mount Washington, 6; Summit of Mount Washington, 9 ; Upper
Ammonoosuc Falls, 3^; Bethlehem, 13; Profile House, 20; North
Conway, 3 1 ; Jefferson Hill, 12.
THE F L U M E HOUSE to
The Pool, 1; The Flume, 1; The Basin, i | ; Mount Pemigewasset,
i-|; Georgianna Falls, 3 ; Tunnel Falls, 2$; Island Falls, 3 ; Pollards, 4; Profile House, 5; Plymouth, 24.
FRAKTCONIA to
Littleton, 5; Profile House, 6; Sugar Hill, 2$; Bridal-Veil Falls,
7 ; Kinsman Flume, 7.
F R Y E B U R G to
Pine Hill, J ; Stark's Hill, i ; Swan's Falls, i £ ; Jockey Cap and
Lovewell's Pond, 1; Battle-Ground, 2; Mount Pleasant, 7; North
Conway, 10; Lovell, 10; Upper Kezar Pond, u i ; Chatham
(Chandler's), 17.

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

135

THE GLEN HOUSE to
Garnet Pool, 1; Emerald Pool, 1; The Imp, 2 ; Thompson's Falls,
2; Crystal Cascade, 3^; Tuckerman's Ravine, 5; Glen-Ellis Falls,
4; Summit of Mount Washington, 8-^; Gorham, 8; Jackson, 12;
Glen Station, 15^; North Conway, 20; Jefferson Hill, 26; Summit of Mount Madison, 4; Carter Notch, 4; Osgood's Cascades,
GORHAM to
Randolph Hill (Summit), 6£; Berlin Falls, 6; Alpine Cascade, 4J;
Lead-Mine Bridge, 4J; Shelburne, 6; Milan, 14; Mount Moriah,
5; Mount Surprise, 2J; Mount Hayes, 2; Glen House, 8; Top of
Mount Washington, i6\; Jefferson Hill, 17.
GROVETON to
Cape Horn, 3; The Percy Peaks, 5; North Statford, 2; Milan,
19; Lancaster, 12.
H A V E R H I L L to
Piermont, 4$; Newbury, 3^; Orford, TO; Warren, 12^; Black
Mountain, n £ ; Top of Moosilauke, 13; Woodsville, 9 ; Top of
Sugar Loaf, 11.
JACKSON to
Glen Station, 3; Thorn Mountain, 3; Iron Mountain, 4; Double
Head, 4 I ; Fernald Farm, 5; Winniweta Falls, 3^; Glen-Ellis
Falls, 8; Glen House, 12; Crystal Cascade, io£; Ponds in Carter
Notch, 9; Grant's Ledge, 5; Hillside Circuit, 5; Thorn-Hill
Road, 8; Dundee Road, 12; Noilh Conway, 9; The Ledges, 15.
J E F F E R S O N HILL to
Railroad Station, 2.\; Top of Mount Starr King, z\; Bray Hill, 6;
Jefferson Mills, 3 : Stag Hollow, 5; Blair's Mills, 8; Lancaster, 8;
Gore Road. 8.; Whitefield, 11 ; Dalton, 14I; Fabyan House, 12;
Cherry Mountain, 6; Twin-Mountain House, 11; Bethlehem, 18;
Mount-Adams House, 5; Gorham, 17; Glen House, 19; North
Road, 8.
LACONTA to
Bay-View Honse, \\\ Gilford, 4; Lake Village* a j ; Gilmanton
Academy, 8; Weirs, 6; Mount Belknap, 8}.
L A N C A S T E R to
Jefferson Mills, 5; Jefferson Hill, 8; Whitefield, 8; Northumberland, 6; Groveton, 10; Lunenburg Heights, 8; Bray Hill, 8;
Mount Prospect, 2; Dalton, 9 ; Lost Nation, 6; Mount Pilot, 10.

136

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

LISBON to
Landaff Centre, 3 ; Parker Hill,'4^; Hunt's Mountain, 8; Sugar
Hill, 7; Bath, 5; Profile House, 15.
L I T T L E T O N to
Bethlehem, 5; Franconia, 6; Howland Observatory, 9; Profile
House, 11; Mann's Hill, 2; Mount Misery, 5; Eustis Hill, \\\
Waterford, 5; Upper Waterford, 6; Gilmanton Hill, 2; Around
the Heater, 3.
L O W E E B A E T L E T T to
Jackson, 4; Around the Square, 7 ; North Conway, 4; Iron Mountain, 4; Echo Lake, 7 ; Thorn Hill, 3 ; Bartlett Boulder, 3 ; Dundee
Road, 10.
MELVIE" VILLAGE to
Wolfeborough, 10; Mackerel Corner, 4; Moultonborough, 8;
Ossipee Falls, 4; Moultonborough Mineral Spring, 4.
M E R E D I T H V I L L A G E to
Centre Harbor, 5; Prospect House, 3 ; Waukawan Lake,
Weirs, 4 ; Plymouth, 14.

\\\

MOOSILAUKE to
Base of Mountain Road, \\\ Warren, 10; Warren Summit, 5;
Haverhill, 13; Head of Slide, \\ Newbury, Vt., 16; Franconia
Iron Works, 17^.
MOULTONBOROUGH CORNER to
Centre Sandwich, 4^; Centre Harbor, 5; Ossipee Falls, 5; Whittier Peak, 5; Tuftonborough Corner, 10; Tamworth, 12; West
Ossipee, 13.
N E W B U R Y (Vt.) to
Mount Pulaski, f; Montebello Sulphur and Iron Springs, \\
Wells River, 5; Haverhill, 3^; Bradford, 7$; Tops of Black
Mountain and Sugar Loaf, 15^; Top of Moosilauke, 16; Wright's
Mountain, 8; Profile House, 25.
N O R T H CONWAY to
Artist's Falls, i £ ; Forest Glen Mineral Spring, i j ; McMillan
House, 1; Kiarsarge Village, \\\ The Intervale, i j ; Around the
Square, 5; Thompson's Falls, 4; Diana's Baths, 3 ; Cathedral, 2\\
Echo Lake, 2\\ Top of Moat Mountain (by path), 6£; Top of

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

137

Kiarsarge (by path), 4^; Middle Mountain (by path), 3 ; Artist's
Ledge, 2; Top of Peaked Mountain, z\; Jackson Falls, 9; Bartlett Boulder, 7; Washington Boulder, 6; Conway Corner, 5;
Thorn-Hill Drive, 9; Ridge Ride, 8; Dundee Road, 12; Fryeburg, 10; Carter Notch, 14; Glen-Ellis Falls, 16.; Glen House,
Humphrey's Ledge, 14; Chocorua Lake, 18; Buttermilk Hollow,
10; Sligo, 13; Swift-River Falls, 18; Potter's Farm (Walker's
Pond), 12; Allard's Hill, 7; White-Mountain Mineral Spring, 4.
ORFORD to
Top of Mount Cuba, 9; Wentworth, 13; Piermont, 5^; Seven
Pines, •§-; Fairlee Pond, i-J.
PLYMOUTH to
Trinity Church, Holderness; i-J; Mount Prospect, 4^; Livermore
Falls, 2; Squam Lake, 7; Around Plymouth Mountain, 10; Centre
Harbor, 12; Bridgewater, 6; Campton Village, 5^; Rumney, 7;
Newfound Lake, 9; Loon Pond, 9; West Campton, 7; Waterville, 18; Thornton Centre, 12; Woodstock, 16; Profile House, 29.
P B O E I L E HOUSE to
The Profile and Profile Lake, \ ; Echo Lake, f; Lonesome Lake,
3 ; Top of Mount Cannon, 2; Top of Bald Mountain, 2; Top of
Mount Lafayette, 3 I ; Walker's Falls, 3 ; Island Falls, 5; The
Basin, 3-^; The Flume House, 5; The Flume, 6; Franconia IronWorks, 5f; Sugar Hill, 8 ; Bethlehem Junction, gi; Top of Mount
Washington, 29; Littleton, 11.
R U M N E Y to
Top of Mount Stinson, 3 ; of Rattlesnake Mountain, 2\;
worth, 6; Wentworth, 8.

Ells-

S A N D W I C H (Centre) to
Squam Lake, 3 ; Red-Hill Pond, \\; Bearcamp Pond, 4 ! ; Moultonborough Corner, 4^; Centre Harbor, 8; Thornton Street
(through Sandwich Notch), 12; Tamworth, 10.
T A M W O R T H V I L L A G E to
Ordination Rock, 1 ; Top of Chocorua, 8; Marston Hill,
Chocorua Lake, 4^; Centre Sandwich, 10; West Ossipee, 4.

\\;

T W I N - M O U N T A I N H O U S E to
Fabyan House, 5; Jefferson Hill, 13; Whitefield, 8; Crawford
House, 9; Lancaster, 16; Cherry Mountain Path, 8.

138

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

U P P E R B A R T L E T T to
(By road) Lower Bartlett, 7^; Bemis, 5J; North Conway, 12J;
Top of Bear Mountain, 3 ; of Mount Langdon, 2; Mount Tremont, 3.
W A R R E N to
Ore Hill, 3^; Wentworth, 5; Breezy-Point House, 4; Piermont,
9J; Haverhill, 9^; Top of Moosilauke, 10.
W A T E R V I L L E to
Top of Osceola, 4J; of Tecumseh, 3 ^ ; of Black Mountain (Sandwich Dome), 5J; Greeley Ponds, 4; The Waterville Flume, 3^;
The Cascades, \\\ Campton, n ; Plymouth, 18; Upper Bartlett,
15; Flat-Mountain Pond, 5; Foot of the Tripyramid Slide, 2;
Top of Tripyramid, 4 ! ; Top of Noon Peak, 3J; Top of Jennings
Peak, 4J.
W E S T OSSIPEE to
North Conway, 16; Centre Harbor, 18; South Tamworth, 6; Ossipee Lake, 4; Tamworth Village, 4; Silver Lake, 2\; Madison, 4;
Chocorua Lake, 6.
W H I T E F I E L D to
Mountain-View House, 3 ^ ; Cherry-Mountain House, 4; Bethlehem, 8; Twin-Mountain House, 8; Howland Observatory, 2;
Dalton, 6£; Lancaster, 10.
WOODSTOCK to
The Agassiz Basins, 2; Thornton Gore, 5; Base of Mount Moosilauke, 8 ; Fox's, 1; Plymouth, 16 ; Flume House, 8 ; North Woodstock, 4|.
W O L F E B O E O U G H to
Copple Crown, 6%; Around the Short Square, 6; Around the
Long Square, 12; Alton Bay, 10; Melvin Village, 10; Devil's
Den, 8; Tumble Down Dick, 6; Around Smith's Pond, 12; Ossipee Falls, 14.

ALTITUDES
Expressed in Feet, according to the United-States Coast and Geodetic Survey, the New-Hampshire
Geological Survey, the Railroad
Levellings, Osgood''s Guide-Book Reconnaissances, and the Explorations of the Appalachian Mountain
Club.

MOUNTAINS.
Feet.
Abraham
3,387
Adams .
5,794
S a m A d a m s P e a k (A.) . 5,554
J o h n Quincy A d a m s (A.), 55384
F o o t of P a t h (A.)
. . 1,430
First Ledges (A.)
. . 4,342
Agassiz
2,042
Anderson
4,000
Bald (Franconia) (A.) . . 2,310
Baldcap (A.)
3,081
Baldface
3,600
Bear
3,000
Belknap (A.)
2,394
Piper (A.)
2,063
Black (Waterville) (U.) . 3,999
Jennings P e a k (A.) . . 3,587
Sachem P e a k (A.) . . 3,050
Acteon P e a k (A.)
. . 2,545
Bald K n o b (A.) . . . 2,391
Black (Benton) . . . . 3 , 5 7 1
Blue (Maine)
3,200
Blueberry
2,800
Blue Ridge
2,000
Bond (G.)
4,650
Boy ( A . ) . . . . . . . 2,278
Bray Hill
1,637
C a m p t o n (A.) . . . .' . 2,879
C a n n o n (A.)
3,865
C a p e H o r n . . . , . . 2,735

Carr
Carrigain
Carter, N o r t h Peak . .
Carter D o m e
Cherry
Owl's H e a d (A.) . .
Chocorua
Clay
Clinton
Cooke's (Campton) . .
Copple Crown
. . . .
Crawford
Cuba
Cushman
Deception
Dickey . . . . . . .
Double-Head
Duck-Pond
Eagle Cliff
Field
Fisher
Flume
Forist
Franklin
Giant's Stairs
Goose-Eye
Green Hills
Green's Cliff
Green (Effingham) . .
*39

.
.

.

.

Feet.
3,522
3,678
4,702
4,830
3,670
3,302
3,54°
5,553
4,320
2,236
2,100
3JJ34
2,927
3,326
2,193
2,788
3,120
2,000
3,446
4,330
3,470
4,500
I
,9S°
4,904
3,5°°
3,200
2,390
2,958
2,500

140

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

M O U N T A I N S . — Continued.
Feet.
Green (Waterville) . . . 3,547 Pleasant ( M a i n e ) . .
Guyot
4,800 Prospect (Lancaster)
Hancock
4,420 Prospect (Plymouth)
. . . .
Hitchcock
3,600 R e d Hill
. . . .
Hope
3,000 Resolution
Huntington
3,Soo Royce
Ingalls
2,520 Sandwich D o m e . .
Iron
2,800 Scar Ridge (A.) . .
Israel
2,880 S q u a m
. . . .
Jackson
4,100 Star K i n g
Jefferson
5,714 Stinson
Kancamagus
3,500 Sugar-Loaf . . . .
Kiarsarge
3* 2 5i S t o n e . . . . . .
. . . .
Kinneo
3,427 Streaked
Kinsman
4*37° T a b l e
. . . .
Lafayette
5,259 T e c u m s e h
North Peak
5,081 T h o r n
Eagle L a k e s . . . . 4 , 1 4 6 T i n
Eagle-Cliff N o t c h
. . 2,990 T o m
Langdon
. . . . . .
2,460 T r e m o n t
Liberty
4,500 Tri pyramid
Lincoln . . 5, J oo Twins
Lowell
3*850 W a l l a c e Hill
Madison
5*365 W a s h i n g t o n
Nelson's C r a g (A.)
Melvin P e a k . . . . .
2,950
Lion's H e a d ( A . ) .
Middle
1,500
Edge Huntington's
Mist
2,243
vine (A.)
Moat, N o r t h P e a k . . . 3,200
Boott's Spur . .
South P e a k
2,700
Half-way H o u s e .
Monroe
5o§4
Marshfield
Little Monroe . . . .
5,220
Waumbek
Moosilauke
4,811
Jacob's L a d d e r
.
Moriah
4*653
Gulf T a n k . . .
Nancy
3,3oo
Osceola
4,4*7 W a t e r n o m e e
Ossipee
2,361 W e b s t e r
Passaconaway
4,200 W e b s t e r ' s Slide . .
Percy, N o r t h
3*336 W e e t a m o o
Percy, South
3*x49 Whiteface
Pilot
3,640 Wild-Cat
Pleasant
4,764 Willard
Pleasant (Lancaster) . . 1,896 Willey
. . 0 0 .

Feet.
2,Ol8
2,062
2,072
2,038
3400
2,600
3*999
3*824
2,162
3*943
2,707
2,565
3>376
i»756
3*305
4*105
1,650
3,200
3*393
4,200
5,000
2,124
, 6,293
. . 5*6i5
. . 5,016
Ra5*432
. . 5*524
. . 3,840
2
*563
3*9io
. . 5,468
. . 5,800
3,022
4,000
. . 2,210
2,546
4,007
4*35°
2,570
0 . 4*300

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

141

A L T I T U D E S OF N O T C H E S .
Carrigain
Carter . . . . . . .
Dixville . . . . . . .
Franconia
Mad-River

Feet,
2,465
3,320
1,831
2,014
1,815

New-Zealand
Pinkham
Sandwich
Willey
White-Mountain . . . .

Feet.
2,123
2,018
J
>754
2
)799
1,914

ALTITUDES OF LAKES A N D PONDS.
Feet.
Cherry
1,200 Saco
Clouds, of the
. . . .
5,053 Silver
E c h o (Franconia)
. . . 1,926 Smith's
Greeley
i>8i5 Squam
Lonesome
2,751 Star
L o n g (Whitefield) . . . 950 Stinson
Lougee
622 Sunapee
Merry-Meeting
. . . .
589 T r i o
Newfound
597 U m b a g o g
Ossipee
408 W i n n e p e s a u k e e .
P o n d of Safety . . . .
1,973 W a u k a w a n
Profile
1,950
A L T I T U D E S OF
Ashland
A l t o n Bay . . . .
Berlin Falls
Bethlehem
Bethlehem Junction
C a m p t o n Village . .
Centre Harbor . .
Conway Corner . .
Dalton
Gorham
Groveton
Haverhill
Jackson
Jefferson
Jericho
Lancaster
Lisbon
Littleton ( R a i l r o a d ) .
Lunenburg Heights .
Meredith
Moultonborough . .

. .
.
. .
. .
. .

.
.
. .

Feet.
475
530
1,035
M5°
.1,187
594
553
466
898
812
901
710
759
i>44°
784
867
577
. 817
. 1,639
542
581

.

Feet.
1,880
456
540
510
4,890
990
1,090
2,490
1,256
. 496-502
542

VILLAGES.

Newbury
. .
N o r t h Conway
N o r t h Stratford
Orford . . .
Ossipee . . .
Plymouth (Railroad)
Rumney . . .
Sandwich . .
Shelburne . .
South Y a r m o u t h
Sugar Hill . .
T o p of Hill
Thornton . .
Tuftonborough
U p p e r Bartlett
Warren . .
Waterville .
W e s t Ossipee
Whitefield .
Woodsville.

Feet.
426
521
915
438
642
473
520
648
723
630
^35!
1,895
1,223
889
664
736
*>553
428
957

142

WHITE-MOUNTAIN

GUIDE-BOOK.

ALTITUDES OF HOTELS.
Feet.
Feet.
Blair's . . . . . . .
556 Mountain-View . . . . 1,279
Cherry-Mountain. . . . 1,249 Oak-Hill
975
Crawford
1,900 Pollard's
1,490
Elliott's
1,036 Profile
i?974
Fabyan
1,571 Sanborn's
571
Flume
1,431 Senter
553
I
Fox's
749 Sinclair
>459
Franconia
^054 Starr-King
i>437
Glen
1,632 Twin-Mountain . . . .1,375
Goodnow
!>334 White-Mountain . . . .1,556
Maplewood . . . . . 1,489 Willey
1,323
Mount-Adams
1,648

PRE88 OF BROWN T H U R S T O N

COMPANY,

PORTLAND,

MAINE.

<^~~The Centennial House.—^
Having secured an interest in the well and favorably known Centennial
House, I take this opportunity to present complimen s to friends and former
patrons of this House, and cordially invite their continued patronage, assuring there will be no efforts spared to make their stay both comfort/able and
pleasant.
The House has one of the best locations in the lovely village Of Bethlehem, situated on high land, and commands extensive mountain views on all
sides, as well as fine sunrise and sunset views. It is quiet and home-like in
all its appointments. It is thoroughly watered and perfectly drained, has
pleasant playgrounds, fine lawns, shade trees, etc.
Extensive improvements and additions have recently been made both
in house and piazza room, drainage, grounds, etc.
Livery stable and farm in connection.
Bethlehem has an elevation of 1,500 feet above sea level, which secures
entire exemption from morning fogs and mosquitoes. Sufferers from hayfever, catarrh and asthma, find immediate relief.
It is easily reached from all points by elegantly equipped Pullman trains.
Six mails arrive and depart daily.
RATES: $8.00 to $15.00 for July, August and September. Reduced for
June and October.
All communications will receive prompt attention by addressing

L9 M. Knight,

.

TURNER HOUSE,

Bethlehem,

-

JV. S.

Bethiehem, N. H.

This long established house,—with Cottage opposite,—situated on the
Main street, seven minutes' walk from churches, post and- telegraph offices,
and about midway between the Maplewood and Sinclair Hotels, has accommodations for 75 guests. The rooms are large, airy, and have large closets.
The street in front of the house and along the tennis and croquet grounds i§
kept constantly sprinkled. The drainage is unsurpassed.
Livery, Laundry and Jersey Dairy. Carriage to all trains.
TERMS, $8.00 to $15.00 per week.
Transients, $2.00 to $2.50 per day.
T H E COTTAGE, which is nearly new, is an attractive two story
house,, with about a dozen sleeping rooms, parlor, piazza, &c. These houses
are oifl
T H E T U R N E R F A R M , which has been in possession of the Turner
family since the first settlement of the town in 1789, and has long been noted
for its many large shade trees, and the never failing stream of pure cold
water by the roadside, under the willow. The farm contains 250 acres, consisting of pasture lands, primitive forest with sugar orchard, and extensive
green fields and lawns on all sides.

J. N. Turner & Son, Proprietors.

JBEIiliEYUE F}0UgE,
BETHLEHEM,

N.

H.

David S. Phillips, Prop.
Elevation 1,600 feet. Entire exemption from Hay Fever, Catarrh and Lung
Trouble. Pure mountain air; no troublesome insects; and pure water from
mountain springs.
A. Good JLivery in Connection

with

the

House,

0£M
QBSERVATION

TOURISTS
Making trips through the Notch should
not fail to purchase a pair of
iEYE-PROTECTORS,i
saving annoyance from

cinders.

For sale by the News Agents on all trains.
Price 25 cents.

Bethlehem House is pleasantly situated on Congress Street, a few rods
from the Main Street, and accommodates fifty guests. The location of this
House, exempting it from the dust of a much traveled thoroughfare, renders
it a suitable residence for persons subject to hay fever and asthamatic complaints.—Guilds' Grafton County Gazetteer.
It will be the aim of the present proprietor to supply the guests of this
House with " a l l the comforts of home," and by the courteous attention and
abundant table supplies, merit the patronage of the public. Large, airy
rooms, and delicious pure spring water adds to the attractiveness of the
place.
Good livery in connection. RATES, $8 to $16 per week.

F. P. MarstOTi,

Proprietor.

(Open the year round.)

Thomas
North Main Street,

Lees9

Proprietor,

HOME FOR DRUMMERS,

WOLFBOROUGH, H.

E

lEEotelH I S: W"^TlrLrLeooette,
T
B I B S , 35T. H I .

Being 270 feet above the lake, the Winnecoette, at "Weirs, commands the
most beautiful and extensive view of Lake Winnipesaukee and the mountains, of any house in this region.
Broad piazzas surround the house. The sleeping rooms are large, airy
and comfortably furnished; three-fourths of them face the lake. The diningroom accommodates one hundred guests.
A large pine grove adjoining is supplied with seats, swings, etc. A. delightful playground for children.
The water supply and sanitary arrangements are unexceptionable. The
rounds are spacious, offering opportunities for lawn tennis and other 6ut-ofoor sports. Good stable connected with the house. Barge connects w i t h
every tr^in. Terms are very moderate. Special rates for families or parties.
LOW rates for J u n e and September. For terms or other information, apply
by letter or in person to
,J. W, Williams^ Prop.* The Weirs> JV. JBC.

f

Cat/* ModQtaii) NotiSe,
B A R T L E T T , ST. H,
E.

A.

STEVENS,

Proprietor.

Situated near the base of Mount Washington, pleasant and
healthy location, two minutes' walk from M. C. R. R. station*
Trains to and from Mount Washington daily.

Beautifully situated on an elevation in Kearsarge Tillage,
from which an unsurpassed view of all the mountains can
be had.
It is equipped with electric bells, telephone service, hot
and cold water on first and second floors, and every modern
improvement.
Mr. S. C. Hill, who forrnerly kept the Merrill House, in Kearsarge Village, has purchased Mrs. Barnes' interest in THE RIDGE, and with his experience in the hotel business, we hope to make THE RIDGE second to no hotel
in North Conway.
New horses and carriages will be added to the Livery, and it will be kept
up to as high a standard as any livery around the mountains.
The house will be opened May 30, for the season of 1891.
Reduced prices from that time until July 10.

DOW & HILL, Proprietors.

P . P . , Kearsarge,

N. g .

T h e , Centre . Villa,
Formerly

the SEAT BY

COTTAGE.

"Will be open for guests JUNE 10th. This house will commence the season of 1&91 under new management, after having been newly upholstered and
refurnished. The Villa is situated on the main street, not a minute's walk
from the depot, directly opposite the Kearsarge House, and commands a view
of the surrounding country which is unsurpassed. It will be the aim of the
management to provide a cuisine and service of such excellence as to leave
nothing to be desired by the patrons of the house.
;

Rates.—Transient guests, $2 per day. Board, $8 per week,
and upward, according to location of room.
For further information, address

The Centre Villa,
NORTH CONWAY, N". H.
R. Litchfield, Proprietor.

Strangers in Portland can obtain views of the harbor,
the islands, and coast, as well as of the city itself, at
this studio All of which are well worthy of a place
in any collection.

OPPOSITE

THE

FALMOUTH

HOTEL.

All Negatives Preserved in a Fire-proof Vault.

Casco

Bay

Steamboat

Co.

The Three Hundred and Sixty-five Island Route, running between
Prtland, Maine, and"the Islands of Casco Bay.

Mail Service all the year round.
C. W. T. Goding,

Landing Custom House Wharf.
General
Manager*

T, Great Steel Thoroughfare of the East.
i lines extending between P o r t l a n d and the boundary
HE.
etween M a i n e and N e w B r u n s w i c k ; and between
P< t;land and F a b y a n s , through the C e l e b r a t e d C r a w fo
N o t c h , piercing the heart of the W h i t e M o u n t a i n s :
©n >ute to M o n t r e a l a n d Q u e b e c , and all points west,
its aain lines, branches and connections not only reaching
B • H a r b o r , St. A n d r e w s , Moosehead, T h e R a n g e l e y ,
Megantic, Connecticut and Bigelow Lakes,
for imgthe shortest and only line by way of Coast and Beaches to all principal

""'Wriilte IMIo-mntain. R e s o r t s ,
bi?is also reaching numerous other resorts both on the Sea Coast
and in the Interior, which by their pure air, and invigorating
atmosphere are drawing visitors in increased numbers each
year; indeed it may be said that this line reaches a greater
G alaxy of Summer Resorts than any line in the World.
Four express trains run daily between Boston and points in Maine; three
for the Provinces; three for the Mountains; two for Montreal; and one for
Qriebec, with choice of route, via Portland or North Conway, and with connections from and to all points South and West.

Heportland, Ip. Desert ^Maohia^fceamLoal Liqe
is under the same management and is the Pioneer Steamboat
Li ne for Mt. Desert, making semi-weekly trips between Port*
la'ad, Bockland, Oastine, Deer Isle, Sedgwick, Bar Harbor,
Mllbridge, Jonesport and Machiasport from Portland on Tuesdays and Fridays at 11 p. m., or on arrival of Express trains
le-aving Boston at 7 p. m., and from Machiasport Mondays and
hursdays at 4 a. m., Bar Harbor 10a.m. Tourists who would
joy superior accommodations, the varied attractions of Coast,
ke and grand Mountain scenery should take the lines operd by this Company.
'ime Tables and other information cheerfully furnished on
)lication to the General Passenger Agent.
PAYSOX TUCKEK, General Manager,
PORTLAND, MAINS*
E. BOOTHBY, General Passenger Agent.

m

. ^Mm

;$wm®
Is the best located
house in the moun-

Parties

tains for transient

at any time to the

convej *d

guests. All trains

\anous p o i n t s of

The

I n t e l e s t , by first-

house is first-class

class teams and ex-

in all its appoint-

perienced drivers

stop h e r e .

ments, and through

Parties who wish fo

its fine perspec-

drive through the

tive v i e w ,

mountains find this^

and

n e a r n e s s to all

the most conven-

points of interest,

ient starting point,

is one of the most

where teams can be

popular houses in

obtained, from

the mountains.

two-horse carriage

a

to a six-in-hand

P o s t and teleoffices at

Tally-Ho coach,

house Fine tennis

a t very reason-

lawns.

able rates, either

graph

Bowling

by

alley. All modern
improvements.

A T I N T E R V A L E STATION, N . H .

trip.

The nearest Hotel t o the J u n c t i o n of t h e Boston & Maine a n d M a i n e Central Q£ov^*.»r

.Large

JJivery

jix&getS «& S o n s ,

"

Connected

.-

with

™v :1CUJ l ^ L i ^ ^ 3

/«,: ill**

ri^.v£„-'u^s» j

the

day or