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“Those Raging, Rousing, Rapturous Nights in Peppy Paree”

(<a ee F
C Be ,
B !PARIS WITH THE
LID LIFTED

 
   
     
   
   
    

BY q
BRUCE REYNOLDS 4

AUTHOR OF “A COCKTAIL CONTINENTALE”

A new sort of a “Travel Cocktail’ that fi

works fast and kicks hard, and opens

the gates to a “million dollars’ worth
of frolic—in Paris

ILLUSTRATIONS BY
H. P. STOLL anp H. E. KUHLHOF

ie

NEW YORK
GEORGE SULLY & COMPANY

aT SFTW AST HPs ET (= oe SRTCOPYRIGHT, 1927, BY
GEORGE SULLY & COMPANY

°
@toe
‘

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

  

PRINTED IN THETo
JIMMY KNOX
(“One Swell Bloke’)FFE FiP yePARIS WITH
THE LID LIFTED

3

3 >
fs

pon
ase
= ton fedsestese
Lobb betes:PARIS
WITH THE LID LIFTED

Tuts book contains a cold “million dollars” worth of
sly, peppy, inside information that will make your
next trip to Paris a whirlwind of Joy. Places—People
—Frolics—Stunts—you might not find otherwise.

The Real Paris.

Paris, France.

Not Paris, America.

Paris with the Lid Lifted.

Paris Pipin’ Hot.

The peppy, purplish, palpi-
tating Paris that all true “Joy-
seekers’ yearn to see.

 

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GAP PAE fae Ab Dg iw sence aRR yee o PLES
ne = 3 ts iad rtiee as)Paris Is “the Top of the Beanstalk” ——

 

You gurgle and swallow and rub your eyes

Paris is a real land of enchantment—a continual,
dizzy, giddy joyride—different, dazzling, novel, color-
ful, bizarre, panoramic, kaleidoscopic, chic, charming,
and utterly Foreign. Foreign from the “toot-toot” of
the taxi horn to the tidy, tippling tables of the Terrace
Cafes; from the astounding, startling sidewalk Bunga-
low-Lavatories, to the red-bearded, Beret-topped,
wasp-waisted native Boulevardier

A thrill, a tingle, a tickle a second, in Paris. Paris

whirls. Your brain whirls. It is Cocktail after Cock-
2PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 3

tail; cocotte after cocotte; cabaret after cabaret;
dawn after dawn; thrill after thrill; adventure after
adventure; headache after headache; bromo after
bromo. You will want to kick holes in the sky and
bite the stars; take in the Sun and shine up the Moon
—in Paris. And that is exactly what you are going to
do. But keep in step and keep sober and don’t balk at
anything. Go where you are told to go and you will
see every little nook and cranny of Paris that there
is to see, and you will get a hundred franc return on
every single franc you spend. You will just have the
time of your life.

ag

:

aTahiFilugaspesbbocrolabeeaasels ia Leereiescitteee
Speers veeereyr Ts ws eeThis Is a Joy-Ride That Covers Them
All

Theatres
Race Tracks
Cabarets

Bars

Dance Halls

Supper Clubs
Restaurants

Motor Rides

Boat Rides
Promenades

Balls

Fétes

Stunts

The Naughty Places
Shopping

 

SE NES POVERTY STDS ESTSSTET TE DEGE EEEREES SETSE TEST CET SERTESES ETE TESSTETECSSST © LorNever mind the expense.

You have come for a holiday. Spend that money
you worked so hard for. Every penny of it. The
harder it was to get, the freer it should be spent. The
only reward you ever do receive for your labor, is what
your money will buy you in pleasure and in happiness.

DON’T try to see how cheaply you
can «DO Earns:There Is None of the “High Brow” Here

This is a Tale of Paris, new and novel. There is
not a word about the Louvre, the Ezffel Tower or
Napoleon’s Tomb. Not a scratch about a Church, a
Picture Gallery, a Museum, a Studio, or a Statue.

This, a book for that congenial, convivial, liberal-
minded, liberal-pursed person, who believes that
pleasures were made to grasp and not to reject; who
knows how to take hold of a good time and wring it
dry; who doesn’t quibble or squabble over pennies;
and who tries to see how much he can spend, rather
than how little.

You will now see Paris, as Paris is; pull back the
curtain, call a Spade, a Spade. What is written here,
is Truth. If to you, Truth is shocking, read no fur-
ther. But

 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

 

    
 

  

©) 3 @}

(Don’t “Do” Paris Like This)
6If You Are One of Us

If we understand each other and you want to go
to Paris and play, and just live life at its peak, and
see everything and do everything, and you have the
liberal mind to take it as it is—and the money to
buy it, and if you want Paris, inside-out, “Paris—with
the—Lid—Lifted’”—-you are now going to get it. But
remember, this trip is not for
Goody-goods, or crepe-hangers,
or hard-shells, or nose-tossers.
This will be a chummy, clubby
party. Very, very select. We
must all understand each
other; all be great friends and
all enter into the spirit of the
party, with a snap. We must
be alert, a-sparkle, a-tingle,
alive. There will be no place
for slow-movers. Now—off
we go to find out

 

Come AlongHow to Have a Good Time in Paris

AND NOT ONLY “HOW”
BUT
WHERE AND WHEN
AND ALL THAT YOU NEED, TO HAVE
THIS GOOD TIME, IS——MONEY AND ALIBIS

(Albis for the Wife, if You Couldn’t Leave
Her at Home).

The money, you must scrape up for yourself.

But on page 100, you will find a list of 10 alibis. All
have been tried and tested, and are guaranteed to
work. If you have never been to Paris, there may be
parts of these alibis, that you will not understand,
but when you do arrive and get your bearings, they
will be quite clear.

All this, of course, provided you are a “He.” If
you are a “She,” then reverse the process. Or should
it be that you are both a “He” and a “She” traveling
together, and you make one of those rare combina-
tions, that do everything as “One,” then disregard the
Alibis entirely. They are not for you. But still, you
may pass them on to some Hen-pecked, or Rooster-
rasped friend. That would be a kindness.

9

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Suppose you have 15 days and
15 Nights

to spend in Paris

How will you spend them?What to Do and Where to Go for
15 Days and Nights

 

 

 

You want to ram, cram, jam every minute of these
15 Paris days and nights, with the rarest Frolic. You
want the rarest foods, the rarest drinks, the rarest
shows, the rarest sights, the rarest of everything. Not
a second of those 15 precious days and nights shall be
wasted. You want to know every morning, the in-
stant you sit up in bed, and rub your eyes and reach
for the Bromo bottle, just where and how, every golden

tick of the clock, that day, will be spent. You can
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12 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

look in Guide books and you can ask questions. You
can go where the folks back home told you to
go. You can go on a Cook’s tour. You can join up
with steamer companions. You can go out and flap
and flounder about, by yourself. But Paris, as re-
gards that kind of sight-seeing, is no different from
New York. You wouldn’t want someone in New
York, your first visit there—and you dead-bent on a
good fling—to take you to the Aquarium, or to Grant’s
Tomb or to the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ monument, or
walk you up Broadway and let you look in the pretty
windows. Suppose, therefore, that you“Time Table”

YOUR DAYS AND NIGHTS

Every minute of every day and every night of the
15 days and 15 nights—to have something to look
forward to—and the very utmost of that “something.”
To make the “Time Table,” definite, positive. To live
up to it, absolutely. To never be steered off it.
Stick to this schedule and sys-
tem, and you will see about all
there is to see, in Paris. You
will leave Paris, happy and an-
xious to come again. Paris will
mean something to you. It will
sort of become, ‘Your Paris.”
You will know it as you know
your own home town. Your
goings and comings will be so
easy and simple. Your merry
haunts, your intimate ac-
quaintance with the streets,
your first hand knowledge of the real Paris life. You
come, a Tourist. You leave, a full-fledged Parisian.
And all you do, is follow this “Time Table.”

Agree to this—and

 

 

13We Are Ready to
Start the Joy-Hop

First, read where to go and what to do in “The
Time Table,” then turn to the page designated after
each item, and read what the place is, where it is and
how to get there.

But First Agree to Do This

Before you start jumping to the back of the book
every time the “Time-Table” tells you to jump—Read
the Book through, from cover to cover, just as you
would a novel. Because, in it are many surprises and
they must be “stumbled” across as you go along, or
you will miss the fun. Start now and read straight
through to the end, then when you actually get to
Paris, take the Book along and work the “Time Table”
all you like.

But first

Please

Promise to read it through without “jumping.”

Read it, page by page, as a “Snappy Story.”

This book looks like a “Guide Book,” but it is more
than that. It is an intimate, heart-to-heart “Talk.”
Take it that way.

 

 

14Don’t Be Lazy

Don’t flop down into a
nice easy chair, somewhere,
and say: “To the Devil with
the Time Table. I don’t feel
like running about. I'll just
stay here.” A fine way to
see Paris, that would be.
Shake yourself. Keep mov-
ing. Realize that your time
is limited. There are things
to see, more marvelous than
you have yet seen. And if
you do flop down and order
that extra cocktail and get in that rut—the Parade
moves on without you. You cheat yourself out of
pleasures, which actually, you wouldn’t miss for worlds.
What a ghastly shame to miss anything in Paris. Times
will come, yes, when you do feel a bit burned out, but
remember—all you have to do, is generate enough
steam to go to the front door, and call a Taxi. Make
yourself do this. See it all. Everything. Every place,
every stunt in this book is Real. You can get to them
and enjoy them all. Just by calling.a taxi. You don’t
have to know how far off the place is. The taxi whirls
you there, in a jiffy. Do, by all means, stick to the
“Time Table.” Do it all. It is all marvelous!! In
Paris.

 

15Don’t Let Your Trip to Paris Be Like
This

 
   
  
   
    
   
  
    
    
 
   

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO.

June 4: Steamer Saponia. Arrive Cherbourg.
Spend night in Paris.

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID.
Saponia one day late. Spend night on tender, under
pile of suitcases.

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO. June s:
Notre Dame in morning. Louvre in afternoon.

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ook up cousi RAL OUDAL: ot

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WHAT YOU PLANNED TO / }
DO. June 6: VT Sy
Arrange finances at bank.
Buy presents for people at
home.

 

16PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 17

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID. June 6:

Slept all day. Sat at table on terrace at Cafe de la
Paix and watched people go by.

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO. June 7:

Morning, visit Tomb of Unknown Soldier. After-
noon, Tuileries Gardens.

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID. June 7:

Slept and sat at Cafe de la Paix and watched people
go by.

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO. June 8:

Visit Napoleon’s Tomb, Eiffel Tower, Trocadero,
Cluny Museum.

“WHAT YOU “ACTUATLY
DID. June 8:
Changed from Cafe de la
Paix to Harry’s New York Bar.
Watched pink elephants go by.

|

    
 

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO
DO. June o:
Visit church of the Made-
leine, Palais de Justice, Arc de
Triomphe, Pantheon.

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18 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID. June 9:
Sat at Cafe de la Paix and watched people go by.

   
 
  
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
   

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO. June to:
Spend day at Versailles, going through Palace.

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID. June to:

Started to look up Cousin. Sat in Harry’s New
York Bar and watched the entire Noah’s Ark go by.

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO. June 11:
Spend day at Palace of Fontainebleau. Through
the beautiful Forest.

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID. June 11:

Got more money. Sat at Cafe de la Paix until it
began to rain. Went to Harry’s New York Bar and
got still wetter, side.

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO. June 12 to June
10:
Visit Malmaison. Famous Picture Galleries and
Art Studios in Latin Quarter.

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID. June 12 to June ro:

Went to Harry’s New York Bar. Henry’s Bar.
Scribe Bar. Cintra Bar. Cafe de la Paix and watched
—took nap.

 

DMA ALLL SterS rie Teliicserteat ict tttiiststt tiie titi te it ttei peresl tr preter etir iret rTPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

WHAT YOU PLANNED TO DO. June 20:
Sail for home.

WHAT YOU ACTUALLY DID. June 20:
Missed boat.Now You Board the Boat That Takes
You Over

You have your choice.

A Cunarder, a White Star or a French Liner.
Money is no object. You want the best. How can
we select a ship? Without prejudice let us pick the
ship that happens to be the newest; supposing, that
in the newest, will be embodied all the latest innova-
tions that contribute to comfort and luxury, in the
highest degree. The newest ship, we find to be, the
Ile de France, of the French Line. We board the Ile
de France. We find it deco-
rated in the Nouveau art, start-
ling in its novelty, but truly
magnificent. Its Grand Salons.
Its private Suites de Luxe.
(One, especially, done by
PAUL POIRET, aiter the
French Province of Algeria.)
The bedroom, in the form of a
vari-colored striped tent, open-
ing into a Parlor that depicts

the Desert at sunset. The walls,
20PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED an

entirely of straw; the red sky, the yellow sun and Palm
trees. This suite, on this particular voyage, occupied
by J. B. Hulett, the Automobile Potentate of New
York. And further along on this marvelous ship, we
find a shooting Gallery; a “sidewalk” Terrace Cafe. A
garage for 150 cars. A chapel with an altar and a choir.
A Grand Guignol Theatre. A Motion Picture Theatre.
4 Private Dining-rooms. A Gymnasium. A Race
Track for flat and steeplechase racing. And book-
makers and jockeys. (The horses are wooden, but
what of that?) A sun Deck with full size Tennis
Court. A Boxing Ring. A Merry-Go-Round for
children. A massage room. A department store.
All the usual Deck games. A Masque Ball the
2nd night out, with soft lights, balloons, confetti, and
Champagne. Big “Shows” every night in which all
the professional artists, take part. Bridge games,
Indoor Tennis, Tea Dances, Concerts. And 3 huge
smoke-stacks to go up and make Love behind, in the
moonlight. A revelation in luxury and magnificence
is the new Ile de France.

But as regards the voyage over, it is for you to de-
cide what kind of a voyage it is to be. You “make” the
voyage, yourself. You can have Ship life, dull or
Ship life, hilarious, charming, romantic, marvelous!

Grab every bit of good time possible.

You will get on the boat, a stranger to 99% of the
other passengers, and they will be in the same posi-
tion, themselves; so that everyone starts even. IfBin BL STE LERELRSESIELEd Labia ie a Ee eEESEL EL areet ttt iA ni

  
     
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

22 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

you are mopy and glum or stand-offish and dignified,
or you want to play but don’t know how to get any
playmates to play with, then take heed.

Those Goddesses who flit about you in such dazzling
splendor, belong just as much to you as to any other
male on the ship; and it was never intended for you to
be lonesome a minute, so stalk right in and let them
know it. Ship acquaintances are made without for-
mality or hesitancy.

If you are sitting in your deck chair and the little
Miss Peaches you want hops by, give her a chance
to get half ’round again, then face about, trot off in
the opposite direction and when you turn the next
corner, there she will be, dropping right into your
arms. The best known system, is to stop cold, let
your mouth fly open and say, “Well, I declare.” She
stops, also. She never saw you before, but she just
stops. Then you appear to come out of your daze,
shake yourself and say: “You will pardon me, |
have seen you before. Permit me. My name is
Jones. I sat just across the aisle from you, that
night that you went to the ‘Follies.’ You perhaps
didn’t notice me—but a

(This is a thousand to one sure shot, because every
attractive, alive American Sweetums who ever went
to New York, went some one night to the “Follies.”
And when you pull this on her, it sounds perfectly
reasonable. )PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 23

(A pause now while she stutters something.) Then
you flash this to her. ‘Well, anyhow, we are on
this boat together. May I join you for a trot around
the deck?” And that is all there is to that. In 5 min-
utes, you discover 9 mutual friends. Her Uncle is the
Cashier of your bank; and your Aunt Sarah taught
her Cousin in Sunday School. And Paris—oh, you
both want to go to all the same places and do all the
same things, in Paris.

And no—you are not sitting at anyone’s table in
particular and oh how nice—indeed you would like to
sit at hers—and—and—and——

This is one way to make them Drop. Another is,
to go to the dining-room the first meal out, before
and take
a stand somewhere where you can sweep the whole

 

anyone has been allotted a regular table

room with your eye, and also watch them as they
enter; then pick out the particular Mouse you want,
slip over to the Chief Dining-room Steward, quietly
point the lady out to him and say: “When you allot
the tables, see that my chair is next to hers and if
you can, make it a small table for two—and I say—
here is” (Then slip him the $10). It is fixed. That
next luncheon or dinner, you arrive late, you plainly
gasp but she looks up, oh, very detachedly and boredly,
at you and you bow low and say:

“Well, I trust you may find this agreeable.” Don’t
expect any comeback, just another detached toss ofsrested retttsieists test ests betee Latta psdbeesteted eat eaes abe retet be cates Lal deci ta a

24 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

the chin and a perfunctorily mumbled, “Yes, thank
you.” Then you study the menu as she explores the
bottom of her coffee cup, but every now and then look
up quickly and catch her looking at you. She will
duck back into the cup again but she knows you
caught her. Now you give your order to the Table
Steward with all the Sang Froid that you can com-
mand. Be particularly cranky about your eggs and
be sure to ask if the chicken is fresh or cold storage.
And now for the “Dirty Work.” You say: “Oh,
Steward” (just as he walks away)—“you might bring
me a bottle of Pol Roger. Serve it with the chicken.”
And now bending across the table to her, whom you
have studiously ignored for 5 minutes—“I beg your
pardon (Show your pretty teeth), but I cannot drink
this wine alone—will you—shall I—may I—have the
steward bring two glasses, as long as we are going to
sit together.”’ (She nods an assent, but no enthusiasm. )
“Charming,” you exclaim. “Yes, Steward, two
glasses.” And once more you go to it. “I should
introduce myself. I am Mr. Fresh. And you?” She
is cornered. She has to tell you. ‘Miss Uppity?
Thank you.”

Then say: ‘The dining-room seems to be crowded.
But mostly buyers, I think. I will confide, if I may,
that I am on pure pleasure bent and I take it, if I
am any judge, that you are, also.” She answers “Yes.”
But do not get excited, she is still on the other side of
the wall. But you keep right on showing her yourPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 25

pretty smiles, and in your voice, shoot out all the
charm sparks and the “It” that you have, and it will
not be long until she tumbles. She is looking for
just as much Romance and good times as you are.
Now some other dame in the room attracts your eye.
You say: “Oh, there is So and So. She is supposed
to be one of the best gowned women in New York,
but (now you are slyly studying her at table), I can’t
see it. That is not my idea of an ensemble. Now I
like (Here you give a glowing picture of what ‘she’
has on)”. And that is the clincher. If she does not
thaw out a little bit now—it’s “going to be a long hard
winter.” But this is only the first meal. You will
meet her again, if not on deck, or in the lounge, back
at the same table in about 5 hours. Then she will be
altogether different. You will hop right into a happy,
breezy conversation and before you push back your
chairs to leave, you will have everything all fixed up
Hunky Dory and Hotsy Totsy, for the evening.

And that opens up another line of action. There
are three or four usual things to do, on shipboard
in the evening. You will have coffee and liqueurs in
the Lounge; you will go into the Smoking Room for
the “Pool Auction” and then dance until 12 o’clock;
which is the average traveler’s idea of the end of a
Perfect Day—but if you want to really stand out and
start something and get a “Gang” straight off and
have some really delicious times, get 6 or 8 girls and
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26 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

and say: “This is sort of Blah, don’t you think?
Why not get organized and have a real party? I have
a big Cocktail Shaker down in my cabin. (Take the

   
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  

 

biggest shaker along that you can find. 5 or 6 stories
high.) And I also have a phonograph with all the new
records. Let’s go down there, shake up a wicked
drink, turn on the music, turn down the lights—and
have a real clubby little hour or so, before turning in.”

And do they Fall for that? And go? Try and
stop them. It will be a stampede. And in that one
little hour below stairs in your own cabin, you will all
come so close together and get so chummy and inti-
mate that you are set for the rest of the voyage and
months—and years after.

And then after this is all over—and you can’t make
any more noise below decks—go back up to the
Lounge again and when the Orchestra quits, call for
volunteers to play the Piano (On a French Boat you
can do this. On an English or American ship, No.
They SHUSH you out at 12 o’clock. So if you want
all that the angels can give you on an Ocean voyage,
go on a French Ship). And there will be a volunteer,PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 27

never fear. There is always a “Life of the Party,”
on every French Ship. And this one may also have a
Ukelele tucked away and you can gather around and
sing the latest Popular Songs of Broadway. But even
this joyousness must come to an end—and it will,
about 2 o’clock. But do you go to bed? You do not.
You turn to that little table-darling of yours—and you
say, kind of off-hand like—“I am not at all sleepy,
are your” It is an even break that she will answer
“No.” And now, son, get real busy. Do your stuff.
Say quickly: “Great! What do you say, if before
saying Good-night, we take a turn around the deck?”
(Steady now, don’t bite your nails.) She will answer:
“Very well, let’s.” It is a cinch, she will, because she
knew you were going to spring this, when you asked
her, if she were “sleepy.” So off you go, to see the
moon, and count the twinkling stars. And now comes
your finest finesse. There are cozy corners up above
you on the boat deck and oh how you want to go up
there. But don’t do it!! This is only the first night.
Don’t even touch her hand. Just walk and talk. Talk
about the evening’s fun and the other people in your
party. Say only nice things about everyone. This,
she will make a quick mental note of and like you for.
And you must try in every way that you can to in-
crease that “Liking” with every speeding minute. Be-
cause, on how much she does like you, depends every-
thing. Whatever she does later, hinges absolutely
upon that. And don’t you make any advances until28 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

you are sure that she wants you to. When the time
comes, you will know it.

Tonight, you stop the walk and you send her off
to bed. Say “It was so sweet of you to walk with me
when I know you were tired. I will say: ‘Good-night
to you now, and thank you so much.’ ”

Ha! Magnificent! You dismiss her. Great! And
don’t you believe anyone who tells you that a girl likes
a “Fast Worker.” She does not, because she doesn’t
want to be taken for granted. To be viewed “cheaply,”
to be considered “Easy.” Call it Vanity. Anything
you like. It is a fact. Just hold out, keep a grip on
yourself and let her Fall for you before you Fall for
her, and then both of you Fall together, and that way,
it is great.

These are the rules for Sea-Ship Courtship:

Ist Night.

Walk and talk impersonally. You send her to bed.
2nd Night.

Tell her how congenial and Pal-ly she is and how
much you like to talk with her.
3rd Night.

Call her ‘“My dear” and say it with feeling but don’t
touch her.
4th Night.

When you walk the deck, hold her hand and plan
some good times together, in Paris.
5th Night (Your Last Night).

Go just as FAR as her kiss and her words and her

S25 232PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 29

eyes tell you to go. And let it be away up on the Boat
deck behind a lovely old smoke-stack and under a sil-
very moon. This is “Nobody’s business” night. It
all comes out now. What is to be, will be. Just hope
for the Best. You may get it. “Bless you, my
Brother.”

And as regards your deportment toward the other
Passengers. Those of your own immediate, intimate
gang. The next day, after that jolly little party
down in your cabin, with the Cocktail Shaker and the
Phonograph—here is a good little stunt to get you the
spotlight and establish you as a good, live Lad. Call
the Wine Steward at Luncheon, point out your friends
at their different tables about the dining-room, and
tell him to take a quart of Pol Roger to each table.
Send your card with the Wine. Write on it: “Will
you permit me this little pleasure?” It will not cost
you over five Berries a bottle and you will only have
to do it once, because the others will want to “show
off” too, and next day, some one or the other of them
will bang a bottle right back at you.

You also make some very fine friendships playing
Bridge aboard ship. This can occupy your time,
mornings, while Sweetums is sleeping.

And don’t forget to tip the Deck Steward, every
day, a dollar, to watch for Sweetums when she appears
on deck and rush up to her and give her a million
dollars worth of attention, making sure to say that
you were inquiring for her and that you wished to be

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werk iage on? Sabres: eee Sibi sts : as fo.

  
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 

 

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PO APT aH wes30 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

summoned as soon as she appeared. Or would she
like to read. (Here the Steward gives her, each day,
another Book of yours, which was given you, before
sailing by some other Doll you have by now, forgotten
all about.)

NOTE:

All of the above has been written to a “He.” If
you are a “She” something helpful should be said to
you. And what could that be better than to tell you
to be just your own sweet, charming self. And, oh,
yes—bring along all the lovely frocks you can. At
least 5 evening gowns, one for every night out. This
is most important, because no other damsel must over-
shadow you on this trip and take the spotlight away
from you. There can be only one “Queen” and that
must be you. At least you must feel yourself “Queen
of the ship.” “Feeling” is everything. It gives you
confidence and with confidence, you will get what you
want, whatever that may be.

But how difficult it is, for a mere man to suggest a
“technique” to a woman. She is the one who gives
his “technique” to him.

Let us now get entirely away from the Personal.
You are on the Ile de France. It is an actual voyage.
Who have been your fellow passengers? Of the really
outstanding celebrities, there was Werner Janssen,
Edna Ferber, Alla Nazimova, Francine Larrimore,
Wilda Bennett, Pepy D’Albrew, Dean Cornwell. And
of the officers of the ship, there is but one real PurserPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 31

in the world and that is Monsieur Villar, a host charm-
ing, marvelous. And a dining-room Steward, Gasnier,
who watches over you as though you were a King and
nothing could possibly be good enough for you. No
attention too exquisite, no table delicacy too rare.
And there was Harold A. Content “Bravest and most
decorated Soldier in the War.” Hon. Albert Ottinger,
Attorney General of New York. Leonard Liebling,
Editor, Musical Courier. Bee Rothenberg, the Coun-
tess Poonaise, New York’s “most copied woman of
Fashion.” Thomas Ryan of New York’s largest ad-
vertising Agency. William L. Birely, best known citi-
zen of Boston. Sam W. Frankel, editor, The Art
sx News (and his marvelous wife).
Bernard Grauer, vaudeville
headliner. A hundred and one

      

other celebrities you meet on
the Ile de France. And now
= blows the last whistle, the gang-
plank swings ashore—off rush
the Baggage carriers—and you
follow

This is Havre

 

 

The next stop—Paris.

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Stop now, and Take Heed—

  
 
  
  
  
   
    
 
   
 
   
   
  

You must get off in Paris with the right foot. Don’t
make those blunders so many make.

There is a long list of ‘““Don’ts”———

For EXAMPLE:

 

DON’T
Don't
As soon as you land in Paris, begin “Putting on
airs.”

You don’t act that way at Home

 

Don’t
Try to drink Paris dry, the
first day.

Don’t

Wear knickers and a cap
and carry a Kodak; and look
like a Rube.

Don’t

Strut your stuff before the
Hotel clerks. Don’t laugh at
the small elevators; or say “In
America, we have—oh, in
America—etc.”’
32

 

  

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Don’t

Wear a straw hat with a fancy band and a gay col-
ored overcoat with your dinner clothes and don’t call
them “a Tux.”

Don’t

Go to the colored boy in the basement of The Ameri-
can Express Company and buy a stack of foreign hotel
labels and paste them all over your baggage; and then
go about blowing to everyone you meet, that you have
been to all of these places. It will be tragic the way
they will trip you up.

Don’t
Go into a Haberdasher’s, look at 300 ties, then push
them all aside and say: ‘‘Haven’t you got a tie an

American would wear?”

Don’t

Yell every minute for “Matches” and yell louder
when you have to pay for
them.

Don’t

Quarrel about the Tax on
your Bill. It is a war Tax and
the war over here, was no
“Buggy ride.”eee a

pa

     
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  

34 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED
Don’t

Pack up (by mistake) the Turkish toweling Robe in
the Hotel bathroom, and take it home with you.

Don’t

Act so ugly when using the telephone.

Don’t

Let your drink make you so boisterous in cafes.

Don’t
Tell everyone you meet what everything you wear
or carry cost.

Don’t

Go into a Restaurant and
yell your order to a French
waiter in English. Or hiss or
snap your fingers to attract his
attention. Or if he doesn’t un-
derstand you, don’t call him a
“Dumbbell.” And don’t hol-
ler, “Gass-on” at him—or say
“Wee Wee.” Or exclaim, “I
never saw such prices.” Or,
“Make it snappy.” Or, “Gim-
me the check.”

  
 

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7%PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 35
Don’t

Quarrel with office clerks and shopkeepers because
they were closed when you called between 12 and 2.
(The French lunch period.)

Don’t

Argue with every Taxi driver at the end of every
ride. The charge registered on the Meter is less than
half as much as you pay in America—and you ought
to be ashamed of yourself.

 

Don’t

Argue, wrangle, dispute, crab or grouch about any-
thing in Paris. You came here to have a good time and
to make friends.

Don’t
<A
eB Go home and write back to
a “4 Paris friends——: “Arrived

home safe and the old Statue
of Liberty certainly looked
Syste to me.”

      

Don’t
Try to teach the French,

English——

But

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4

  

Teach Yourself, French

Here are a few random words and phrases that you
cannot get along without—in Paris,

  
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
   
 
 
  
   
  
   
 
  
  

Be a Sport. Memorize them.

It will smooth the way for you. You won’t be such
a “Foreigner,” have so many disputes, get into such
hot water or have your nerves so jangled.
Above all—learn how to MAKE LOVE—tn French.
The same old “applesauce”—only in France they
call it “Sauce DE POMME”—and learn this part of
your lesson well. It is the Golden Key that opens the
Pearly Gates.
Not to speak or understand French will be the same
| handicap to you, that it would be to a Frenchman, in
New York, who knew no English. What Theatre
could he go to; what Movie; what Restaurant; what
Hotel. It is quite the equivalent to being deaf and
dumb. Oh, yes—Americans do go to Paris who do
not know a word of the Language, and they do have a
good time—but how much better time would they have
the other way. All day long you will have occasion
to speak French and you will be embarrassed and
handicapped at not being able to do so. If it is just
a case of “getting by,” then go to Paris and be a Goof,
but if you have any ambition to do and to say the right

thing at the right time, and not stand out like a “sore
36

 

 

  

, 4 “AMBASAS- eg steele cidigeas handed ices adaa jad bded gist dadin ea oie ed atthe Age dae ead tdci pada daa Parad ds ea eet te ba renter eee clea 7PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 37

thumb” tourist, then get yourself a smattering of
French. And it is not difficult. If you only learn 10
words a day, that will be 60 words going over on the
boat, and then each morning in Paris, while dressing,
if you can say, whistle or mumble to words a day
more, the first thing you know, you will be winning
the diamond studded wash rag, as a French scholar.
Suppose now that

 

You Are Strolling Up the Boulevard

and you see ze little French Goddess tripping toward
you, and she spies you at the same moment and you
look ecstatically at her and show your pearly teeth
(if you still have them) and she gives you right back,

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STH SENT —

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ye TE Sie Et

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Silat tateELLPEEDEST PRET PRES ECESSED TEES TES Ee ES Eetctet ce Peterere res resteeeti "I r " _ ss

     
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
  

38 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

that “‘come-and-get-me-love-me-carry-me-away  WiZ
you” invitation. You have to make good. Start off
right. Tell it to her, in her language. She will not
understand it, in yours. And you might as well be
deaf, dumb and blind if you are strolling along with a
cunning little French Mama and you don’t know how
to put what you are thinking, into words. She might
know what you are thinking, and she might be think-
ing the same thing, but she cannot tell it to you either.
But you are to blame, not she. She never had the
opportunity to learn English. You have had plenty
of opportunity to learn French. And shame on you!
But, anyhow, to help you out, here is the first lesson
in “How to make a Lady look, linger and love,” in one
lesson,” in Paris.

(If you cannot memorize these—copy them down,
and take them with you and point to them).

Say to her:

“You look charming. I must
know you.”

(Vous etes ravissante. Je
voudrais faire votre connais-
sance. )

Next flash this one—

“Will you step into a cafe
with me.”

(Voulez-vous venir avec moi
dans un cafe.)PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 39

Isn’t that better than just walking along looking at
her and grinning like a Goof?

Now you are on the way, not only to “make hay
while the sun shines” but also to “make Love when it
Rains.”

 

Keep right on talking to her

Here is some more

Hand her this

 

 

“You are very pretty, very congenial. You and I
must be great friends.”

(Vous etes tres gentille. Vous me plaisez beaucoup,
nous ferions une bonne paire d’amis. )

 

And be ready to hand her this, next

“We will go somewhere to dance, and you will have
dinner with me.”

(Nous irons a un danse et
nous dinerons ensemble. )

 

And then pull your ace

“Now we will go to some
place where we can be quite
alone—and talk things over.”

(Et maintenant nous pour-
rions aller a un petit endroit
tranquille ou nous pourrons
causer a notre aise.)SEEEI TSS ETERS Tere Set TE F ers: ree Pivest eres Ps eittt r otra fr ied

Seba beotarselcire SRCSPCLOSETY et ped E 3 Raat te

itis Seeerrees i Flbates Ebates steeed ous abating Ressdua eatee eapadad 3 sessed estates tesiettes tenet atts icaie etre aa e.
br) pat erad: . Ll bi svar thpee bie siee cs v i)

  
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 

40 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

If this doesn’t get her—leave her flat and grab the
next one. And these little Hotsy-Totsy French Mamas
are as plentiful in Paris as Shamrocks in Ireland—and
as cute and innocent as a mouse in a convent. The
deepest they know how to dig, is for a package of
cigarettes. And toss one a too franc tip and you
will have to plead to the French Parliament to call
out the entire standing army to help you get rid of her.

These simple, innocent little kids of the streets.
They have never been anywhere but Paris. They
know nothing but Paris and because Paris is gay,—
they are gay. No one ever taught them to be really
“Bandits.” They need a few francs a day to buy
food and shelter and pretty frocks and high-heeled
boots and cigarettes and Porto Rouge, but when it
comes to going after big money like the New York
| or London ‘Ladies of Leisure and Pleasure” do, they
don’t know the first thing about it. And they never
will know. 50 francs to one of these little happy-
go-lucky hoydenish girls would be the equivalent to
$50 to a hard shell Broadway cruiser. And it is 50
francs well invested because this little Imp really
needs it. And so it goes. On every Boulevard and
in every side street, you will meet them and just look
at them and they will mischievously smile. Always!
| It is the spirit of Paris. And it is a wonderful spirit.

It is the spirit that keeps one young and carefree, and
gay and gladsome. Oh, marvelous!
On Page 262 you will get a complete course in con-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 4

versational French. Always keep this book handy,
when in Paris, and refer to the “French Lessons” con-
stantly. It will not be long until you can babble away
like a native.a i uc

    
  
  
 
  
   
   

Now—Suppose you are a “He”
traveling alone and you don’t
want to be traveling alone
What ts the First Thing you must Do?

 

 

GO—GET YOURSELF A LADY, FAIR

The “Ladies Fair” which you, the Tourist in Paris,
will meet, are divided into six classes.

I. Ladies of the Boulevards. (All French.)
II. American and British Girls who reside in Paris.
III. Habitues of Hotel Lobbies.
IV. Habitues of Brothels.
42

  

a a eerPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

V. “Hostesses” at Cafes.
VI. Those ‘‘Sweet Girl Tourists.”

And don’t overlook the “Male Vamp” of Paris—
THE GIGOLO!

Crass I

“Ladies of the Boulevards”
(All French)

Harshly called “Street Walkers.” Appallingly
plentiful. They promenade every Boulevard and side
street. And they wait for no flirtation. In their ap-
proach, there is no subtlety. They come right up and
grab you; make you the proposition “cold Turkey”
and they know all the naughty English words. As a
whole, they are circly-eyed, over-painted and unat-
tractive; although some are still
in their teens. An alliance with a
“Girl of the Streets” in Paris, for
anyone who cares, or has stand-
ards, is out of the question. Their
life is hard and seamed. All night
they walk the streets, many limp-
ing from fatigue. Sit in front of
any prominent Boulevard Cafe
and see the same ones pass, times
innumerable. They dress, the
height of Fashion because this is
their ‘‘show window,” but don’t be

 

 

 

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Eevee Mitte eeeesighs ta ade be [Lath os tech eat hes tak

FP PRES a SEaTs Tie erase ey ee Poiey
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44 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

taken in by them. Give them silent sympathy but an
open “cold shoulder.”

And if you want to have a real party, one out of
the ordinary and one that will yield you big divi-
dends, if not of the flesh, of the spirit; round up about
6 of these street girls, march them up to a sidewalk
cafe and sit them down and give a Party. It will
cost you but the price of a good umbrella; all the
sandwiches, drinks and cigarettes you can consume,
for an hour. They will babble their thanks to you in
French, kiss you on the chin, and for that hour, you
will be the Kingiest King in Paris. No matter how
bold and hard and “Professional” these Ladies of the
Boulevards may be, they are never tough and they are
awfully appreciative. Your hospitality of a sandwich
and an aperitif at a sidewalk table, endears you to
them, quite as much as if you had taken them to the
home of your Grandmother. They are never rude and
no one is ever rude to them. What they do and how
they live is not frowned down upon in Paris. They are
as welcome in Cafes and shops and are treated with
the same courtesies and formalities as you are. It is
all so different in Paris. A girl can sink to the depths.
But by her own people, she is invariably treated as a
Lady. So remember—you can smile at them, talk
to them, drink with them, laugh with them—but you
don’t have to make love to them.Crass II

The American and British Girls Who
Reside in Paris’

Among these you will find some marvelous com-
panions. Some are divorcees with beaucoup alimony.
And the best spenders and highest steppers you ever
met; beautifully gowned and bejeweled and a top-
notch social entree. Others are attractive, but broke.
But all make a marvelous “front.” And all know all
the “jumps” and all speak your language. Then there
are the English chorus girls in the big Revues. And
the other group that came over,
for “adventure.” These are the
girls you will Pal around with.
And you are going to meet a
flock of them. You will be told
exactly, where, later. No chap
with any looks and pep and a
few francs in his pocket, need
ever spend 5 minutes alone, in
Paris. And he can have a
different Doll, for breakfast,
luncheon, dinner—and the eve-
ning. Pretty ones, snappy ones,
45

 

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HEI CS ELMeES GEG secede ace Se a gna

46 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

charming ones. And all roll the eye and eye the
roll. Some of the greatest girls and finest friend-
ships of your life, you will meet and make, in Paris.
These girls have cute apartments of their own; and
many have their little “Cocktail Parties” every after-
noon, where you can drop in at “five” and meet
more and more girls, each time. A good investment,
surely. And these “dropping in” parties, if you linger
long in Paris, they are going to add much to the
“Kick” of your visit. At one single cocktail party,
you may meet 10 jolly good scouts, and if you make
friends with those 10, you will go to 10 more cocktail
parties later. Some of the greatest American girls
you have ever met live in Paris. And that word “live”
you couldn’t take it too literally. Live they do and
magnificently; week after week packed solidly with
buoyant, bubbling, bounteous life. Tryst after tryst
and party after party. A drive through the Bois at
mid-day, then the Beauty Parlor and the Modiste; a
swagger luncheon; a rendezvous at some smart Bar; a
cocktail and a dance at a Hotel; home to dress and
a marvelous dinner; and then Montmartre until long
past the crack-o-dawn. Over here, their lives are
wholly without restrictions, conventions, conditions or
criticism; they love Paris and Paris loves them.Crass III
Habitues of Hotel Lobbies

Beware of these. They are in the main, black-
mailers. Many work with Male Perverts and they
will try to get up into your room and pull the “Badger
Game” on you. They are “dressed to kill” and come
around at tea and dinner time, and smile and wink at
every male who looks their way. Some men, not wise,
will think these women, guests of the Hotel, and get
all puffed up over their conquest, but don’t be childish.
These Lobby-workers are the strong-armed Female
Bandits of the world. They will
get the gold out of your teeth
right where you sit, and with
your mouth closed. They could
steal the wig off an old’s man’s
head, without removing his hat.
And some of them will fool you
completely. They all speak
English and they can all smile
and talk beautifully. They fre-
quent every Hotel that caters to
Americans and think every
American “easy picking.” Par-
47EAA

48 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

ticularly in the Hotel Bars, will you meet them, and
that is the particular spot where you “Fall” the
hardest; thinking it no harm, at all, to buy the
“Pretty girl,” at the opposite table, who is all alone
—just one little drink. But do that—and you are
“spotted” for days after, and all the time, you sit
and drink with this Bebe Doll, her own Gigolo or
Apache, is seated at another table close by, watch-
ing every move, and already spending in his mind, the
good, easy coin, that he and she together, are later,
going to “shake you down” for. And this sort of girl
goes after the big money. Not hundreds of francs,
but thousands. She will tell you tales of woe that
would bring tears to the eyes of the Iron Horse. Ah!
but she will not spring them all at once, or the first or
second time she is with you. Those two occasions will
be devoted entirely to proving to you, that it is not
your money but you—but just wait. In her mind, the
plan of campaign is all laid out and ready to spring
when the time comes. First she will get you on the
phone, or rush up to you all excited and out of breath:
“My God!” she will wail—“My maid has stolen all
my clothes. I came home last night and found my
closets, my dresser drawers and my trunk just rifled
clean. I haven’t a toothbrush, Boo-Hoo-Hoo-Hoo.”
And you, you big sap, if you fall for it, before you get
through, you will be out—about 5,000 francs for a
new “wardrobe.” And the best of them do fall. And
there are 10 more such tricks that these girls work
to get big money. Another trick is, about the alimony.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 49

She will say to you, “What do you think, the Lawyer
who pays me my alimony has died and until the courts
can appoint someone else, my income is all tied up
and I can’t even eat. But, of course, I will give you
a note for the loan. You will be perfectly safe.”

And another famous graft: “The man I sold my
home to in New York has sent me a Personal check
and I cannot get the cash on it.”” (She shows the check
and it looks O. K.), “until it goes all the way back to
America again and is collected. But it is good as gold.
This man is worth 5 million dollars, Why, you surely
must know him by reputation. (Pause while you
“Fall”). Oh, thank you so much and I will repay you
just as soon as the check is collected.” These are the
“big Touches.” ‘The little ones are the same as have
been worked on you before, many times. So “Stop—
look—listen” and run, when one of these damsels turns
the golden smile upon you, across a Paris Hotel
Lobby.Se aa

     
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    

Crass IV
Habitues of Brothels

These, it stands to reason, you don’t want to have
anything to do with. Except as you would want to
go and visit a Museum. Every boulevard is infested
with Guides who have the addresses of these Ladies.
And there are more of them in Paris than any other
ten cities combined. The Guides will be enormously
delighted to take you the rounds. This kind of girl, in
Paris, however, is far fetched, when so many you meet
by introduction, are attractive and companionable.
These licensed, commercialized Houses, are perfectly
safe, because all are under strict
police surveillance. There is
never any pocket-picking or
hold-ups. The girls are good
natured and to them, there is
no wrong in anything. It is
the only life they know. All
their girl friends do the same
thing; and perhaps, also their
Mothers and Grandmothers be-
fore them. And believe it or

not, they are all refined, soft-
50PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 51

spoken and there is never a word of profanity or
coarseness. It might be better not to refer to this class
of girl; but she exists—and you will not be in Paris
10 minutes until a “Street Guide” will accost you and
want to take you to meet some of them. Therefore,
this bit of information in advance. If you are a male
and over 21, it is for you to decide. But when you do
decide, you are not deciding anything more serious,
than to go on a tour of inspection. If you are inter-
ested in all the phases of human life, this may prove
interesting to you and the places, themselves, no more
than “Museums” in which strange, new “Freaks” of
nature are exhibited. The “Ladies” see no harm in
your coming, merely to inspect them. They will parade
before you in frankest nudity, and dance with one an-
other in a mirror-walled room, so that of their charms,
you may miss nothing. Then you can buy a bottle
of wine, to be a gentleman, give them cigarettes, a
50 franc tip to the two or three who happen to be
nearest to you, and they will all smile and thank you
delightedly, and you may go your way, adding an-
other rich experience and adventure that will give
still more color to your life. This is speaking frankly,
but there has really been no harm in the pilgrimage.
Not, at least for a Male. And it is surely not advised
that women tourists visit such places. That having
been disposed of, we pass on to another type of damsel.Seater eset reeset rete ie tee eens a =a a
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Crass V

‘‘Hostesses”’ at Cafes

These girls, dressed beautifully, infest every Cafe
and Night Club. In some places, they are called
‘Hostesses.” They sit at every table not occupied by
legitimate patrons. For the sole purpose of making it
“pleasant” for the unaccompanied gentlemen. 99%
of them are French. And they speak no more Eng-
lish than the carefully memorized “naughty words.” A
man is not expected to enter into an alliance with them,
unless he so desires. They will sit at your table, be
your “scenery,” dance with
you, drink your wine, eat your
lobster and wish you a very
sweet ‘‘Good-Night”—for 100
francs for the evening. ‘The
too francs is for their time,
and very cheap at_ that.
“Tadies must live.” You can
pop in and out of 5 Cafes a
night, have a girl in each place
to eat and drink with you, and
it costs you 100 Francs tip.
And you are under no further
52PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 53

obligation. You go home alone. Some of these girls
are really pretty. You spy an especially pretty one,
and make inquiry. You are told that this little lady
with the Madonna-like face is 25 years old; and that
“she has had 7 children.” You are further told, that
707% of these girls of the Paris Boulevards and Cafes,
have children; many being beautifully educated from
the earnings of these street-girl-mothers.

After all these girls perform a definite service
for the money they receive. They are not Parasites.
Their earnings they come by, honestly. They dance
with the patron and should be paid for it. They help
sell the House’s Wine, anda cemmission on that, they
are entitled to. ,

Many of them, by day, are milliners and dress-
makers. They build up substantial businesses, selling
to each other. Smart girls, these. And if you can
speak French you will find them decidedly companion-
able. They know life far better than you do. Every
night in a big Paris Cafe, meeting new people and
having new experiences, has given them a breadth
and a depth not possessed by any other girls on earth.
And they are only dippant and boisterous if your own
conduct demands them to be. You could do far worse
than spend an hour with a Cafe Hostess.Crass VI
Those ‘Sweet Girl” Tourists

Ah! Here is real Quality. Perhaps a “Ship ro-
mance” among this assortment. Or perhaps a siren,
who is stopping in your Hotel. A school girl; a
debutante; a business girl; a divorce; a married
woman, out for a fling: :But-be careful. A little girl
from Little Rock is nat’ thé easiest to handle when
the Fizz begins to work, and she starts singing: ‘“Halle-
lujah.” And as a rule, they want to see all the Risque
sights and go to all the naughty places in Paris. Not
that they are bad, but all their
lives, they have had others
whisper to them, those certain
things, about Paris, and now
they are in Paris,—and they
just must see it all. Watch
your step when they “fall” and
want you for their very own;
and you are the one they ap-
point to show them the town.
That means another ball and
chain. Better have a flock. Not
just one. And treat them all
54PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 55

alike. Say to each, in turn, “Baby, I am just
crazy about you.” She will believe you, thereby
proving that she is crazier than you are. So “Love
‘em where you find ’em and Leave ’em where you love
‘em.” You are going to Paris, not to attend a SUN-
DAY SCHOOL Convention—but for a JOY RIDE.
A “Joy Ride” doesn’t mean one DAME—it means
one hundred.

And you can have just as many as you want. They
are here. And waiting for you, with open arms. And
they will let you take them out and trot them around
and buy them all the pretty wine and pretty baubles
and pretty parties in Paris. If you are a good playboy
and a spender you can be a Sultan. You can have
a Harem four times as big and beautiful as any real
Sultan that ever lived. Money opens feminine hearts
faster than Cupid. Just start handing it out and they
will start following you. And it will be worth it. You
will get the biggest good times for your money you
ever had. And what you spend, will only be one-third
what the same sort of an occasion would cost you in
New York, and minus all the thrills. So play hard,
spend freely, stay up late, see it all, and get it all,
but look out—don’t get hooked. Remember the warn-
ing: ‘‘Not one Lady Fair, but a hundred.”

     
  
 
 
 
    
 
   
   
   
   
    
   

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The “Male Vamp’”—The Gigolo

In these Cafes, see also the Male Vamp. He, of
the patent leather hair and dress, immaculate. Here
to make the night pleasant for the female patrons.
Paris calls him a “Gigolo.” An unaccompanied Lady
if she cares to dance, can summon 4 Gigolo,—take a
turn around the floor with him and pay him 10 francs
per dance. Moneyed women, however, have been
known to “fall” for their Gigolo——buy him a motor
car, send him to the best tailor; even take him back
home. Gigolos, as a rule, are handsome enough to be
seen with, anywhere; and women of wealth and experi-
ence will pick up a good-look-
ing Gigolo and keep him dur-
ing their entire sojourn in
Paris. This solves a problem.
The young man is not intro-
duced to her friends, as a
Gigolo. And who is the
wiser? This Lady, who might
otherwise have been lonesome
and restricted, as to her
amusements in Paris, may
now have her fling, and when
it is all over, can say: “Ta Ta”
56PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 57

to Giggy; bestow upon him a proper recompense, and
board her boat for home; to again take up the hum-
drum of domestic life. Yes, this is done, in Paris. And
why not? Why should Traveling Ladies be lonesome
any more than traveling gentlemen? Do not both sexes
have the same tastes, inclinations and desires, when
they get away from home? And a woman journeying
forth alone is surely under a handicap, in Paris, if she
is without male escort, to take her to all those gay
spots she and everyone else who is “alive,” comes to
Paris to see. And cases have been known where
women even traveling with their own husbands, have
their Gigolos. It is Friend Husband who engages the
Gigolo. He, himself, doesn’t dance and he doesn’t care
to stay up late, and just as his wife seeks gayety, he
seeks quiet. She has come to play. He has come to
rest. So why split on this mere difference of view-
point. Let them each have their own kind of enjoy-
ment, and no harm done. So it is, therefore, that
the Gigolo performs his important function in Paris.
To keep lovely ladies from being lonely and bored and
to make their Paris visit all that their hearts desire.
Ladies—engage your Gigolos, by the dance, day or
week. Faces, manners and fees, to suit.

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Your Hotel in Paris

The First Consideration, your Hotel. In Paris there
are Hundreds. Low priced and high priced. Select
a high priced one. The high priced one will give you
the comforts and the luxuries and the environment and
the associations and the life you are looking for. Just
as you selected the newest ship, select the newest Hotel.
This, the Hotel Ambassador, and the Hotel Ambassa-
: dor is in the center of everything. A lobby, that is
. magnificent; fountains, paintings, tapestries, art furni-
ture. Servants in Court livery.
A beautiful dining salon; ball-
room, American bar, card room,
shops. And the food, marvelous.
Sponsored by the famed Alber-
tella, most ingratiating and effi-
cient Maitre d’H6tel in all Eu-
rope. And Victor, a Drink
Mixer beyond compare. Also, a
smaller Dining-room downstairs,
with prices lower. And in the
Ambassador you will meet people
58PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 59

worth while. And there is an orchestra; and the Yale
and the Harvard Glee Club Bands, playing alternately
day and night. And you, yourself, can keep the Bar
open as long as you can keep your eyes open. There is
all the gayety and luxury you could wish for. at the
Ambassador; the newest in the great Duhamel chain:
and personally directed by Monsieur Roger and Marcel
Duhamel, two great Hosts. Stop where you like in
Paris, but the Ambassador is big, beautiful, luxurious
and friendly. And not too expensive.

To stint on your living, is to cheat yourself. Let
your hotel be the Best. In a high class hotel you meet
high class people. In a cheap hotel, cheap people. Do
you, to save a dollar or two a day on your Hotel bill,
want to form associations with people who, when you
get back home, you would be ashamed to have anyone
see you speaking to? It is serious to form temporary
friendships in Europe, with people socially beneath
you. On the other hand, meet people in Europe with
whom you will be proud to perpetuate a friendship
when you return to the States. Such people are im-
portant to you. You can use them. In a business
deal. In social life. If anyone tells you, you can do
Europe on 100 francs a day, you just have a little pri-
vate wink all to yourself and set aside 1,000 francs a
day to spend and be sure to spend every franc of it.

Have a real holiday in Paris. Find out how much
money really will buy you.

 
  
  
 
 
 
 
    
  
    
     
   
  
   
  
 
     
  
   
  

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60 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

On the various ‘Time Table” pages to follow, when
you are told to see “this page and that page,” don’t
pay any attention to it, until you have

FIRST READ THE BOOK THROUGH—TO
THE ENDPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

 

TIME TABLE

FIRST DAY

Arise at noon.

Press a button. Order breakfast. See Page r1ro.

See about your Mail. See Page rio.

Engage a table for dinner at Des Ambassadeurs.
See Page 111.

Pick up “A Lady Fair” to go with you. ‘Look
them over” in the hotel first. See Page 42.

t o'clock. Meet that marvelous man named
“Dobes.” See Page 112.

1:30. Haila Taxi. See Page 112.

Go for the Jolliest Ride in Paris. See Page 121.

1:45. Goto Ciro’s for Luncheon. See Page 117.

3 o'clock. Walk to the corner to the Rue de la
Paix. See Page 118.

Take a marvelous stroll.
See Page 1109.

3:45. Visit the Bar of the
Hotel Ritz. See Page 119.

4.15. Walk 1 block to
the Rue de Rivoli; and
promenade. See Page 121.

4:45. Drive to the Hotel
Claridge. See Page 122.

6:30. Take another Drive
“Most glorious drive of your
life.” See Page 115.

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62 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

FIRST DAY—ConrtTINUED

‘Behold The Empress.” See Page 116.

7:30. Dress for Dinner. See Page 124.

(You are dining at Des Ambassadeurs but you
don’t go there until 10 o’clock.)

8 to 10. Lounge. Patronize your own Hotel
Bar. Nibble chip potatoes. “Look them over”
again.

to o'clock. Des Ambassadeurs.

12 o'clock. Go to The Florida. See Page 125.

Champagne compulsory. See Page 126.

1:30 A.M. Go to Florence’s. See Page 126.

4 A.M. Go to Les Halles. See Page 128.

Stop at Au Pere Tranquille for Onion Soup. See

Page 128.

5 A.M. Stroll among the
Hucksters.

EeTiceA Mi. Go to bed!
N. B.

If Des Ambassadeurs is
closed, see Page 209 for sub-
stitute Restaurants. BUT
DO ALL OF THE OTHER
THINGS, »ON, TEES
SCHEDULE. A day and
night you will never forget.

MARVELOUS! !PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

SECOND DAY

Sleep until 1. Out at 2. Luncheon at Cafe de
Paris. (See Page 129.)

3:30. Those shops you resolved to go back to,
as you promenaded yesterday. Loaf for an hour.

4:30. Go to Cafe de la Paix. (See Page 129.)
Take a seat at a sidewalk table and watch “the
world” go by.

5. Tell taxi-driver to take you to the Seine,
at Place de la Concorde. (See Page 135.) Go down
steps to boat landing. Buy ticket to Austerlitz.
Take little passenger boat. (See Page 135.) Taxi
back to your Hotel.

6:30. Engage seats for Moulin Rouge. (See
Page 134.) Dress.

7. Dine at Langer’s. (See
Page 136). Show the Head-
waiter you know something
about Food. (See Page 130.)

8:15. Taxi to Moulin
Rouge.

12 o'clock. Wax to Le
Perroquet. See Page 136.
Leave at 2: Go to bed.

N. BB. If. Langers: is

closed, choose a substitute
Restaurant (Page 209).

 

 

 

 

 
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
  
 
   

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64 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

THIRD DAY

Arise at 11. Coffee in your room as you dress.

Out at 11:45. Engage your seats for the evening,
at Folies Bergere. 30 minutes to do other errands.

Go to Boulevard Madeleine and Rue Caumartin.
Stand on the corner. You are going to take a Bus
ride. Take Bus marked “AS.” (See Page 136.)
(Going toward Madeleine Church.) Say to con-
ductor ‘Terminus.” (Pronounced ‘Tare-me-
noos.”) Go to end of line, get off and take another
Bus and return to where you got on.

1:45. Go to Delmonico’s for Luncheon. (See }
Page 137.)

3 o'clock. Walk around the corner to the famous
Harry’s New York Bar. (See Page 137.) Ask for

— Harry, himself. Get initi-
= —_ ated into the Eb ts:
f 4 o'clock. Walk, or stag-
ger one block, to Henry’s
Bar. (See Page 147.) Ask
for Bob Lloyd.

5 o'clock. Go home and
lie down. Don’t write any
letters. No one will be able
to read them.

6.308) Dress:

7 o'clock. Dinner at HotelPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

65

 

 

THIRD DAY—ConrtTINUED

Ritz. (See Page 168.) If Summertime dine in
the Garden. Order wine like a Gentleman. (See
Page 170.)

8:15. Taxi to Folies Bergere. (See Page 148.)

12 o'clock. Taxi to Zelli’s. (See Page 149.) See
Joe Zelli, himself.

2 o'clock. Go to the Capitole for Onion Soup.
(See Page 150.)

3 o'clock. Go to bed.

 

 

 
  
  
   
   
  
   
   

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

FOURTH DAY

Sleep until 11. Coffee at the little French Cafe
you have noticed near your hotel. (See Page 151.)
Engage your seats for the evening at the Casino
de Paris. (See Page 154.)

12 o'clock. Taxi to the Champ de Mars. (See
Page 152.) Back to the Opera House.

12:45. Loaf and shop until 1:30. Go to Prunier’s
for luncheon. (See Page 153.)

3 o'clock. Go to office of New York Times. (See
Page 153.)

4 o'clock. Round up your gang at Harry’s. Also
at Henry’s

5 o'clock. Have a taxi driver “Pour” you back
into your Hotel.

Loaf.

Dress.

7 o'clock. Dine at Phil-
lipe’s. (See Page 154.)
it 8:15. Taxi to “Casino de
My / Paris.”
ay 12 o'clock. Taxi to Chez
i Josephine Baker. (See Page
a p 154.)

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3 o'clock. Go to bed.

N. B. If Chez Josephine
Baker is not open, see sub-
stitute Cabarets. (Page 209.)

i’

 

 

 

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nae
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FIFTH DAY

Out at 11:45.

Take a marvelous walk. Go through the Rue de
la Paix, past the Place Vendome, turn to the left
and walk down the other end of the Rue de Rivoli
to the Grand Magasin du Louvre. (See Page 155.)
Thence a swing into the Avenue de l’Opera and
back to the Rue de la Paix again.

1 o'clock. Go to the Rue Daunou to the Hotel
Chatham—opposite Henry’s. Luncheon in the
Garden. (See Page 155.)

2:30. Goto the Cercle Haussmann. (See Page
156.) (If you’re a “she,” “Shes” are not admitted to
the Cercle Haussmann. Instead, you visit the Estab-
lishment of some famous Modiste.) (See Page 156.)

4 o'clock. Go back to the
Cafe de la Paix for half an
hour. Go to the Opera
House corner and take any
Bus going straight up the
Avenue de l’Opera. Say
“Tair-me-noos” and take an
interesting ride through the
workingman’s quarter. (See
Page 158.) Back to where
you started.

& oclock. Taxi to the
Cintra Bar. (See Page 159.)

 

 

 

 
  
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
  
   

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68 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

FIFTH DAY—ConTINUED

5:45. Do your errands. Walk to your Hotel.
Lounge. Read the New York Herald. (See Page
159.) Dress.

No theater tonight. You are dining at a mar-
velous Restaurant, the Chateau Madrid, but you
don’t go until 9 o’clock. (See Page 160.)

11:30. Drive to La Troika. (See Page 160.)

{ 2 o'clock. Go to bed.

N. B. If it is not Summer time, you cannot dine
at Chateau Madrid. See substitute Restaurants,
Page 208.

 

 

 

 

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69

 

SIXTH DAY

Out at 11:45. Coffee at that little neighborhood
French place. Have it on the sidewalk. Walk
down the Grand Boulevards again. (The same
route you taxi-ed over your first day.) Ina straight
line. See Page 122. Walk back on the other side
of the street. Go through the Passage Jouffroy.
(See Page 162.)

1 o'clock. Go to Tour D’Argent for Luncheon.
(See Page 162.)

2 o'clock. An hour for mail, cables, errands and
shopping. (See Page 163.) Some more papers are
in at the office of the New York Times.

4 o'clock. Another great Bar to explore. At the
next corner The Hotel
Scribe Bar. Downstairs.
(See Page 164.)

5 o'clock. Take another
ride through the glorious
Bois. Give the chauffeur
the same instructions as on
the first day.

6 o’clock. To your Hotel.
Engage your tickets for
Palace Music Hall. (See
Page 165.) Dress.

 

 

 

 

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70 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

SIXTH DAY—ConrtTINUED

7 o'clock. Dine at Maisonnette des Comediens
Russes. (See Page 165.)

8:15. Taxi to Palace Music Hall.

12 o'clock. To The Palermo. (See Page 165.)

2 o'clock. To bed.

 

 

 

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SEVENTH DAY

(Supposedly Sunday. )

Up at 11. A stroll over any Boulevard and coffee
at any sidewalk table. The great thing to do on
Sunday is to go to the Races. (See Page 167.)

If at Longchamps, Auteuil or Saint Cloud, lunch-
eon en route, in the Bois, at Les Cascades. (See
Page 168.) Get to the track at 2:30.

Back to town at 7.

Read, write, dress lei-
surely. No show tonight.
The gala social event of
Sunday, is the dinner dance
at Hotel Ritz. (See Page
168.) Reserve your table
by phone, early. Go at 9
and stay until 1. Call it a
night and crawl in. (A lit-
tle Piety, you know, on the

Sabbath. )

 

 

 

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
   

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72 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

    
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
  
  

 

EIGHTH DAY

Sleep until 11. Go have a wee Spot with the gang
at Harry’s and Henry’s and The Scribe.

2 o'clock. Luncheon at Au Caneton. (See
Page 178.)

3 o'clock. Take a drive up the Boulevard Hauss-
mann, through the Avenue Friedland, the Avenue
Wagram, past the Arc de Triomphe, through the
Avenue de la Grande Armee (See Page 178), re-
turning through the Bois; thence up the Avenue
Victor Hugo, to the Avenue Henri Martin and back
to the Opera House by way of the Seine, through the
Avenue Tokio; thence over the Champs Elysees,
Rue Royale, Boulevards Madeleine and Capucines.
| Another incomparable drive. (Copy this down and
) show it to the chauffeur.)

4 o’clock. Sit again on
the Terrace of the Cafe de
la Paix. Coffee or an ice.

5 o'clock. Go to the Ham-
mam Turkish Bath. (See
Page 179.) No hurry about
getting back to your Hotel
to Dress; because there is
no show tonight. You dine
at another wonderful rest-
aurant in the Bois, Armenon-
ville.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

 

EIGHTH DAY—ConrtTINUED

11:30. Go to Kasbeck. (See Page 180.) Or
Cassanova. (See Page 180.)
2 o'clock. Go to bed.

 

 

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And Now a Surprise

You have been a good, obedient, loyal boy (or girl).
You have donned the spangled harness and strutted to
schedule—every night for 8 straight nights—and there
may have been MOMENTS when you would rather
have had Measles than “Dress.” You were tired,
burned out, absolutely all in. But you did it. And
now for the Reward. The Surprise. Take the Dinner
jacket and all the glad raiment and put it in moth
balls. You won’t have to dress again. Now you are
going to see the real Paris. The Paris of the Parisians.
The Paris the tourists don’t see. You are going right
out among the Parisians and live the life they live.
Eat where they eat and play where they play. You
were made to doll up and do all that high life stuff be-
cause that is the side of Paris all of your friends have
seen and you must see it, too. But when you get back,
you can spring 10 stunts on them to their one. The
things you will see, the next 7 days, they don’t know
exist. But those last 8 days were glorious. Cost you
a pile of money, but that side of Paris is the most
spectacular in the world. Nowhere such Restaurants,
such lavish living. It all had to be had. And look—
it puffed you up a bit. Your chin is a notch higher;
you swagger a bit more; you are a whit more impor-
tant. Good. Swank and Strut counts for a lot. You
can go back to your Main Street and put on all the
“bow wow” you want. YOU know Paris. YOU have
lived. Now for

 

74The Paris of the Parisians

   

 

Where
You don’t “‘dress.”’

You don’t strut.

 

You don’t squander
You don’t “Lord” it any more.

You get right down now to real Paris life—with real
Paris people, and it isn’t going to cost you one-fifth
what the other cost

 

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76 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

TIME TABLE
NINTH DAY

Sleep until 11. Coffee where you like. Go toa
new Bar. The Cecil Bar. (See Page 181.)

1 o'clock. Taxi to Le Grand Veneur for luncheon.
(See Page 182.)

2:30. Golf. (See Page 182.) Horseback (See
Page 182) or Cinema (See Page 183).

6 o'clock. Do errands and promenade. you Do
NOT “DRESS.”

8 o'clock. Taxi to Place du Tertre, Sacre-Cceur.
Dine. (See Page 183.)

9:30. The Lapin Agile. (See Page 184.)

11 o'clock. Taxi to the ¥
bottom of the Hill, to Bou- j seis p Py
levard de Clichy. (See Li SAT
: : Sel a Pe
Pagenras.)) sit atyside-) | | protien
walk cafe. | Hee ah
11:30. Walk down the i} A = 5
Rue Pigalle to Number 14. ALI — Zea
Fred Payne’s Bar. (See { “Sie-@
4 OE ek lee,
Page 186.) hi > %
3 o'clock. Go to bed. LAN ePIC,
N. B. Your first day »a.\\ N <r a
, . w Q 7] . * }
of “real Paris.” Did you NM AYMA™
\h = sie 4

like it?PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

TENTH DAY

Out at 12. A trot about for half an hour. (Page
182.) Taxi to Auberge du Cul Blanc for luncheon.
(See Page 187.)

2 o'clock. Appointment period. (See Page 187.)

4 o'clock. Taxi to Fouquet’s. Sit on the Ter-
race. (See Page 187.) Walk to Napoleon Bar, 3
blocks down the Champs Elysees. (See Page 187.)

7:30. To your Hotel.

8 o'clock. Taxi to Left Bank. (Other side of
Seine.) Dine at Chicago Inn. (See Page 188.) Go
for a liqueur to Du Neant. (See Page 189.)

10:30. Walk 3 blocks down the Boulevard de
Clichy to the Moulin Rouge. Drop into the entrance
marked “Bal du Moulin
Rouge.” (See Page 189.)

11:30. Stroll to 14 Rue
Pigalle. To Cliff Thomp-
son’s. (There are one or
two here, you surely want to
see again. Or pick up a new
one. )

2 o'clock. Go to bed.

3. oclock—yes—go _ to
bed !!

4 o’clock—Oh, very well
—have it your own way.

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
    
 
   
    
   
  
   
   
  
  
   
  
  
   
 
   

 

 

 

 

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78 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

ELEVENTH DAY

Out at 12. Some more New York papers are in.
Go to Times office. Also Harry’s and Henry’s.
(You will not be strong enough to resist.)

1:30. Taxi to Auberge du Clou for luncheon.
(See Page 190.)
| 3 o'clock. Coffee at Cafe de la Paix. Golf or
: Gift Buying (See Page 190) or Baccara.

7 o'clock. Go, circle the lake again in the Bois.

8 o’clock. Dine at Grande

 

 

 

 

 

Ermitage Moscovite. (See NN

Page 1091.) | iN
to o’clock. Go for liqueur rT |
to Le Caveau des Oubliettes Ly ly j

Rouges. (See Page 191.) Ra

 

11 oclock. Go to Bal Qe '\ : any: #4

Tabarin. (See Page 192.) ; os (s
12 o'clock. Go to Harry’s Xt ==
Downstair’s cabaret. (See \ f ¥
Page 192.) ‘Y
ee Ny

2 o'clock. Go to bed.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

TWELFTH DAY

Out at 12. Coffee where you like. Promenade
for an hour.

t oclock. Luncheon. Cafe Savoyard. (See
Page 193.) Stroll around Sacre-Ceeur, along the
Place du Tertre, the place where you dined on the
Ninth day. Visit the quaint old shops.

3 o'clock. Your choice. The Cintra Bar or The
Scribe Bar.

4 o'clock. Tea Dance at Claridge.

6 o'clock. Taxi to “Robinson-in-the-Trees.” For
| : dinner. (See Page 108.)
10 o'clock. Taxi
to L’Enfer. To Le
Ciel. (See Page 194.)

12 o'clock. Taxi
to La Petite Chau-
miére. (See Page
194.)

1 o'clock. To La
Paradis. (See Page

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N. B. If “Robin-

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not open, see Pages
208-209.a

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80 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

THIRTEENTH DAY

Out at 12. Promenade. Your own time. Harry’s,
Henry’s, Cintra or The Scribe. Luncheon at “The
Cabesson.” (See Page 196.)

3:30. Take the boat again. At Place de la Con-
corde. Go the other way up the River—to Suresnes.
(See Page 196.)

8 o'clock. Dine at Boeuf Sur le Toit. (See
Page 197.)

10 o'clock. Taxi to Aux Belles Poulet. (See
Page 197.)

11 o'clock. Taxi to La Fétiche. (See Page 198.)

12 o'clock. Go to Rue
de Lapp. (See Page 199.)

2 o'clock. Go to bed.

N. B. If “The Cabes-
son” is closed, see sub-
stitute restaurants. (See
Pages 208-209.) If not
pleasant enough to take
the boat ride, or if Aux
Belles Poulet is not to
your taste, do one of the
other stunts. (See Pages
215-216.)PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

 

FOURTEENTH DAY
Out at 12. Promenade.

1:30 sharp at Place de la Concorde. Inquire

entrance to Sewers.

Go down and walk through an

old-time sewer to the Madeleine.
2 o'clock. (If Sunday.) Go to the Races. As-

certain the Course.

6 o'clock. Round up your various gangs.

 

Harry’s, Henry’s, Bushby’s,
The Scribe, Cintra.

7:30. Dine at Chinese

™ Restaurant. (See Page 200.)

9 o'clock. Taxi to the
Catacombs. (See Page 200.)

10 o'clock. Cliff Thomp-
son’s.

12 o'clock. Rat Mort.
(See Page 201.)

2 o'clock. Mitchell’s.
(See Page 202.)

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

FIFTEENTH DAY (THE LAST)

Out at 12. Do as you like. Luncheon at Res-
taurant Cheval Pie. (See Page 203.) A farewell
round of the Bars. Your last chance to buy those
gifts.

7 oclock. Dine at Chez les Vikings. (See
Page 203.)

4 8:30. The famed Latin Quarter. Taxi to Cafe
du Dome. (See Page 204.) Sit here. Get an eye-
full.

11 o'clock. To The Select. (See Page 205.)

12 o'clock. To Deux Magots. (See Page 205.)

1 o'clock. Go to Pigall’s. (See Page 207.)

2 o'clock. You may want
to double back to some of
those all-night places you
particularly liked. (Aux
Belles Poulet is open until
4).

Wour last “night: Put
away the moon and hang out
the sun.

SQUEEZE THE HOURS
DRY.

Never mind the Boudoir.

 

 

 

 

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NOW TAKE A 16TH DAY

Take this extra day to do those things that you
should have done and to Un-Do those things that you
should not have done.

Or make this a day of telling lies to the wife to
square the hundred and one lies you told her the pre-
ceding 15 days.

Or

This, a day of cabling for money to get home on.

Or

A day of writing postcards,
to tell Bill and Jack and Mary
and Mabel all about it. And
to be absolutely proper, post-
cards have but one correct
form—‘Dear Mabel. “So this
is Paris. Having wonderful
time. Wish you were here.
Miss you very much. X marks
my room. Love.” (How
many have you had, worded
just that way?)

Or
It might be a day for rushing out and grabbing, at

the last second those hundred and one gifts, you had
better not go home without.

 

83

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This Is a Day of Crabbing

A day of “cutting down expenses.”’ “You'll be gosh-
darned if you will tip that waiter more than 10 %.
(For the past 15 days you have tipped 25% and 50%.)
| And 2 francs is enough for any taxi driver and that
) War Tax on the Hotel Bill is awful. And why does a

stamp on a postcard to America cost as much as for a
letter? And why should you give the Hotel Concierge
anything for just handing out your key to you? And
the maid, you have never seen her, and she is paid by
the Hotel to clean your room. And the Taxi starter,
. what did he ever do for you but open and close a few
taxi doors? And why should any cable to America cost
$1.20? And 1o francs for a slice of canteloupe in the
Hotel dining-room! A crime!! In fact the price of
everything in Paris is terrible. Outrageous. Ghastly.
You are being gyped, robbed, skinned alive ?

Ah! But this is your 16th day

After you have had all the Good Times

’Twas ever thus

Most of us, under the surface, are Pikers. We want
to dance but we balk at paying the Piper. And one
thing peculiar about the Tourist in Paris, at some

stage or other of his visit, he goes sour and grouchy.
84

 

 

 

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On every Boulevard where Tourists gather, you could,
any hour of the day, send out a call to those who have
grievances against Paris, and you would get a crowd,
big enough to start a ““Convention of Grouchers.” They
simply cannot relax and really enjoy Paris. They
will not stop crabbing long enough to realize that Paris
is a different world entirely. It is a strange complex.
This crabbing by Tourists. Some of them don’t even
like the Louvre. They think it looks dirty and should
be washed. And some say—Oh is that the Eiffel
Tower? It looks like a smoke-stack.” They carry a
chip around on their shoulders and talk nasty to
everyone they meet.

A Grouchy person, in Paris. Terrible! Run away
from him or her, as fast as you can. You are not the
grouchy kind. You will love Paris. Paris to you,
will be as near Heaven as you will ever want to be.
And that is the frame of mind to be in. You will be
looking for thrills in Paris and you will get them.

 

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NOW TAKE A 17TH DAY

And Go-a-Calling

And what a marvelous lot of friends you can visit.
They, themselves, will not be at home but just you
go and stand outside and look up at their houses and
get a deep-down thrill. A wonderful experience this.
One of the finest of all your days in Paris. ‘“Going-a-
Calling.” On the Immortals. Take your Taxi, make
up your list, tell the Chauffeur to drive slowly, show
| him a copy of the various streets and numbers and
just roll along. You will not have to alight from the
Cab. Merely stop for a moment before each house
and drink deeply of its historic and hallowed loveli-
ness. What an adventure! Don’t miss it!

Go first to Rue de Courcelles. At Number 38.
Charles Dickens resided here in 1846. He naively
referred to it later, as “the most ridiculous, extraordi-
nary, unparalleled and preposterous house in the
world; being something between a holy house, a
‘shades,’ a haunted castle and a new kind of clock.”

AVENUE WAGRAM. Number 120 was the resi-
dence of Alexander Dumas. He died here in 1870.

At the age of 67. His works totaled 1,200 volumes.
86PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 87

RUE DE PENTHIEVRE. At Number 26 lived
Benjamin Franklin in 1776, when on his mission to
secure the active aid and cooperation of France in the
American War. At Number 37 lived Lucien Bona-
parte, brother of Napoleon. He died here in 1840.

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAIS. At Number 1, the
Duke of Wellington spent much time after the Resto-
ration.

RUE TRONCHET. At Number 5 lived Frederick
Chopin. Here he wrote his famous Nocturnes.

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES. At Number
8 lived Jacques Offenbach. He who wrote the im-
mortal “Tales of Hoffmann.”

RUE DE LA CHAUSSEE D’ANTIN. Number 2.
Gioachino Rossini wrote his majestic Operas here.

RUE DU MONTTHABOR. At Number 4, the
charming American Writer, Washington Irving, lodged
in 1821 and here he wrote “The Sketch Book.” And
here also came later to reside, the immortal Frederick
G. Lewis, greatest American Interpreter of the Plays of
Shakespeare. And ’tis said of the beloved Lewis, whose
memory was upon occasion faulty, that often did he
fail to recall his place of residence, and would ride and
walk for hours, in search of it.

RUE DE LA JUISSIENNE. Number 2. Here
lived Madame du Barry. And from here, she went to
her death in 1793, at the age of 45.5 ot eee

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88 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

RUE DE LA MICHODIERE. At Number 19, in
a small apartment on the sth floor, lived Napoleon
Bonaparte, when “an unemployed and impecunious
soldier.”

RUE DE LOUVOIS. At Number 5 lived Gaetano
Donizetti and here he wrote ‘Les Martyrs.” Number
102 was the home of Voltaire.

RUE DE RICHELIEU. Number go1. Here re-

| sided Giacomo Meyerbeer. He who composed “Les
Huguenots.” Number 50. Here lived Madame de

Pompadour. A lady who knew her “Groceries” well.

RUE MONTHOLON. Number g. See here the
residence of Franz Liszt, where he gave lessons on
the piano, before starting on his long and brilliant
career aS composer.

| RUE DE LA TOUR D’AUVERGONE. Number
37 was the home of Victor Hugo in 1849 and he tells
of it in his “Things Seen.”

RUE DES MARTYRS. Number 47. The home
of Honore de Balzac in 1841. And it is said that at
that time, he was in seclusion here, dodging his
creditors.

RUE DE SAINTONGE. Number 20, the resi-
dence of Robespierre, at the time of his execution in
1794.

PLACE DES VOSGES. Number 21. The home
of Cardinal de Richelieu.

EEEPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 89

RUE DE LILLE. Number 119. The home of
General de Lafayette in 1799 after his release from
the Austrian Prison.

RUE CROIX DES PETITS CHAMPS. Number
7. The home of Charlotte Corday. From here she
went to slay Marat.

RUE SAINT HONORE. Number 350. Here
Napoleon signed his marriage contract in the office
of Josephine’s attorney, by whom the young General
was asked what his possessions were; and answered,
“What I have on.”

RUE DES MOULINS. At the corner on the left.
Jeanne d’Arc rested here when encamped outside the
Walls of Paris.

RUE DE BRENELLE. Number 118. Once the
home of the Duc de Brissac, last lover of du Barry.

RUE DE LA FERRONNERIE. Number 11.
Here came a little Coquette by the name of Jeanne
Vaubernier. She worked here as an errand girl for
a Dressmaker. One day she met a man. The man’s
name was Louis XV and then she became Madame
du Barry.

RUE DE CHARONNE. Number 98. The gentle-
man who lived here was Cyrano de Bergerac, whom
Rostand made famous.

RUE FAUBOURG SAINT HONORE. Number
41. Queen Victoria was entertained here in 1869.

    
 
 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
  
 

 

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90 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

RUE DU FAUBOURG POISSONNIERE. Num-
ber 58. Corot had his studio here. And around the
corner at 51, the Capitulation of Paris was signed on
March 30th, 1814.

RUE DU FAUBOURG ST. DENIS. The most
ancient street in Paris. The Kings of France made
their joyous entries into Paris down this street, and
also it was the line of march for Royal funerals.
Around the corner in the Cemetery for “Protestant
Strangers,” John Paul Jones is buried.Did You Like It?

Have you enjoyed these Days and Nights? Have
they been happy—snappy enough for you? See Page
224. (“The Author Presents His Compliments.’’)
And how was your conduct? This, answer truthfully.
On the next page is a CHART. “The Apology Chart.”
Will you have to make use of it? Look the chart over
carefully. Notice how the blank spaces are to be filled
out. If you feel you owe anyone an apology, for any
misdemeanor, this chart makes it easy for you.
Merely write your own name on the top line, with
the Place of Offense, and check the particular deeds
of misconduct of which you were guilty, below.
Now, Examine the Chart on the Next Page.

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

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>PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 93

AND THIS HANDY REFERENCE LEXICON

Should you be a “Tippling” person and your con-
duct, these Days and Nights, has been pretty terrible,
here are some words that will help you describe such
a condition. Just check the ones that fit. But should
you be a non-tippling person, you may sigh the sigh
of the Righteous—and turn the page. But don’t sprain
your wrist patting yourself on the back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Were You

Fried to the Hat Pickled
Slushed to the Ears Ginned
Lit Shicker
Squiffy Spifflicated

Oiled Primed

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
 
   

 

 

 

psoas ener IER DT94 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Edged

Jingled

Piffled

Piped

Bent

Sprung

Scrooched

Jazzed

Corked

Corned

Potted

Hooted

Tanked

The heeby-jeebies

Stiff

Paralyzed

Ossified

Out cold

Embalmed

Blotto

Lit like a
Christmas tree

Lit like Macy’s
window

Wet

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The screaming-
meemies
Cock-eyed
Wall-eyed
Glassy-eyed
Bleary-eyed
Hoary-eyed
Pie-eyed
Four sheets
Crocked
Leaping
Screeching
Lathered
Plastered
Soused
Polluted
Saturated
A bun
A slant
A snootful
A skinful
The shakes
The whoops aiid
jingles.Who Cares What a Good

Times Costs?

No matter what fun costs, in Paris, it is worth it.

Don’t crab about the cost of anything. You have
had two kinds of Fun. The most expensive and the
most economical. And don’t balk at the “expensive,”
and only do the “economical.” See it all. Have it all.
Otherwise you cheat yourself out of many rare times.
Your “15 days” as outlined here—will give you more
joy and education, more adventure and experience than
any other 15 days—or 15 years of your life.

And in 15 more years you
will be living it all over again,
in your mind—and reciting it
(at least, some parts of it) to
friends, old and new; perhaps
to your children, to your chil-
dren’s children. So live all
that you can—as joyously as
you can—and while you can.

Joy and happiness is worth
all that it costs. And Paris
is the place to buy “Joy and

happiness.” You can buy
95

 

 

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96 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

enough of it, not only to fill you up while there, but
have a great surplus besides, to carry back home with
you, to draw on when things go dead on you and life
gets dreary, for years to come. Your whole future
will take its “current” from that “Joy Jag” you had
in Paris, in just those two or three marvelous weeks.
What did your money ever buy you, greater than
that? Why go about with a long face, moaning about
what this cost, and that cost? Jf you want it, buy it
. whether you can afford it or not. And nine times out
of ten, you will not be spending money at all. You
will be investing it. Investing it in something that
will come back to you a hundred fold later on. And
so we say: “Who cares What a Good Time Costs?”
In Paris.Don’t Be Stingy in Tipping

Tourists come back from Paris, and tear their hair
about the “Tipping outrage.” They tell you, how
everywhere they went in Paris, Theaters, Hotels, Res-
taurants, Taxi-cabs—they were held up, robbed and
massacred. Bah—to this. Tipping in Paris, com-
pared to Tipping in New York, is absolutely innocent
and of no consequence. Note this comparison.

PARIS VERSUS NEW YORK

If your luncheon in Paris costs 25 francs, the Tourist
7 Con-
sider! 10% of 25 francs is 2
francs and 50 centimes. Or 10
cents. Would you be so

measely as to give a waiter

will say “Tip 10%.

ioe

who has served you as ex-
quisitely as has this French
waiter, one dime? Give him
5 francs. 2zoc. And _ this
double tip in Paris, is 5 or 10
cents less than you would dare
leave at your plate in New
York.

97

 

 

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

98

But Tipping in the most expensive Restaurants is
different. Ciro’s for example. If your dinner for
two costs 300 francs, then you may tip only 10%.
Give the waiter 30 francs or $1.20. But in addition
give 10 francs to the wine steward. And an extra 50
francs to the headwaiter, if you expect him to bow or
take any notice of you on your next visit. These are
the only circumstances under which you should adhere
to the strict 10% tip schedule. Because, Ciro’s and
similar places charge New York prices.

But what does that matter? You only go to these
places once and then only to be able to say you went.
And if you didn’t, you could not know all phases of
Paris life. These are the places, however, that give
Paris the blackeye. ‘Tourists visit them because they
are famous and they think they typify Paris. When
they have been to them all, they imagine they have
done Paris thoroughly. What a terrifically mistaken
idea that is. These places are gilded and their traps
are set for Tourists and for Tourists only. They are
a joke. If you come to Paris and these “sucker-em-
poriums” are all that you see, you might just as well
have remained in New York and squandered your
money around the Ritz or the Plaza.

Hand out your tips freely and make them gener-
ous—to the real Frenchman in the real French place.
He serves you well. He deserves your generosity.
But at the other places, the “Tourist Baits,” toss out
the 10% and let them take it or leave it.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 99

TIP GENEROUSLY

You will feel better. The service will be better.
The Taxi Tip.

In Paris, you ride 1o blocks for 2 francs, 8 cents.
Would you tip 10% of 2 francs, or even 25%, which is
2 cents. No! Give the chauffeur 1 franc tip for
every 3 francs on his meter. (33 1/3%.) And this
magnanimous gratuity is about one-half the tip you
would dare give a New York chauffeur. Remember—
you do not wish to be considered ‘“‘a Tourist.” Many
Tourists in Paris are sneered

Ke?

at. They have given America
a black eye. You want to be
‘“‘An American Gentleman” and
those things that will stamp
you an American Gentleman”
are

Liberal Tipping.

Soft Speaking.

Dignified Dress.

Respect for the French.

Love of Paris.
Knowledge of the Language.

 

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Those Alibis

(For the Wife. Sometimes rudely referred to as
“The Ball and Chain’)

ALIBI $1.

(When you are one hour late, slip her this one.)

“My dear—what do you think? The Taxi Driver
didn’t understand me.

“Instead of bringing me here, he took me away over
to the other end of Paris.

“T am so mad I can’t see,” etc. etc.

ALIBI 2.
(When you are 2 hours late, try this. )
‘Don’t say a word. It is dread-

ful. But I had to stand in line at

the American Express Company for
two hours, waiting to get a check
cashed,” etc., etc.

ALIBI {3.
(When you are again 2 hours
late, this should work.)
‘“Well—what do you think, my
dear—The President of my Bank,
Mr. Solmonsky, sent a friend of his
100PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED IOI

to Paris with a letter of introduction to me. A Mr.
Murphy. Well, Murphy proceeded to get very drunk
and for two hours I have been riding him through the
Bois trying to sober him up, so he could meet his wife.
You know how important Mr. Solmonsky is in my life.
I just had to do it,” etc., etc.

ALIBI #4.

(When you are again 2 hours late, she will fall for
this. )

“Oh, my darling, I am so sorry. I was going to be
here right on time, but I met Earl Leslie, and a very
dear friend of his was in a terrible automobile acci-
dent, and was taken to the Hospital. And Earl in-
sisted that I rush out there with him. My dear, there
was no way out of it,” etc., etc.

ALIBI ¢5.
(When you are again 2 hours
late, this one is a clincher.)
“Now wait a minute!
“Just a minute, my dear!!!
“My excuse is a good one.
I’m terribly run down, the pace
we have been going. Well, a
friend told me about the won-
derful Turkish Bath here. I
went there—laid down to take
a nap—left a call—but the

 

     
 
 
  
   
  
  
  
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
   

 

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102 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

darned fool boy didn’t understand me—and I slept on.
Oh—it is terrible. I am heart-broken,” etc., etc.

ALIBI +6.
(When you are 3 hours late, this never fails.)

“Well, what’s the idea.

“You told me to meet you at the Cafe de la Paix.
I waited there for three hours. What? W hat?? You
were there? What??? The Capucines? Well, can
F! you beat that! There I sat on the side of the Opera.
I didn’t know the place had two sides,” etc., etc.

ALIBI 37.
(When you are again 3 hours late, this works
always. )
‘Where was I?
: “What do you mean, where was I?
‘Where were you??!!
‘What? Hotel Scribe?
“No, you were not! What?
“Upstairs? Can you beat that?
“T never said a word about upstairs.
“T thought you would have sense enough to come
downstairs—to the Bar! !
‘“What—certainly I meant the Bar!!!” etc., etc.

ALIBI {8.
(When you are 4 hours late, this is certain. )

“Oh, my dear, give me a chance!!
“Listen now, please!PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 103

“T have just had the most
terrible time. I was riding in
a taxi and the chauffeur sassed
a policeman and they had a
violent quarrel, right there in
the street—and the _brass-
headed chauffeur wouldn’t shut
up and the policeman not only
took him to the police station
but he took me, too, as a wit-
ness. Can you tie that? Me
—in Paris—in jail, and for 4 hours—and then I
had to put up a Bond that I will appear in Court
tomorrow afternoon—and that means another four
hours. What? Oh, no—oh, no— You needn’t go

with me. It would make you too nervous,” etc., etc.

 

 

 

ALIBI {9.
(When you are 5 hours late, this works marvelously. )

““Oh—I have been bored to death.

“You know Charlie Brown. Well, Charlie, dammit,
turned his mother-in-law over to me—and she wanted
to do some shopping—and for five hours I have been
leading that hatchet-faced old party around, showing
her the stores. Terrible! Terrible!! And I wanted
to take you to the Ritz for Tea today,” etc., etc.

 

 

ALIBI +10.

(When you are 5 hours late, they swallow this one,
line, hook, sinker and all.)Srese treaties 24 rat ea be tele aera STOTESLStEcestelesenetco cet: POEERT LAPS ESEELELLCOESE LURE ESeELE! et PELeTETTeTie) : 4teeeeres sigs 1
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104 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

“Well—fuss if you want to
—but you would be sorry if
you knew. What? No, I can-
not tell you. What? No, I
cannot. I don’t want to. I
want it to be a surprise. Oh,
well—if you must rave like
that I shall be compelled to tell
you. That bracelet you have
been dying for. Yes, that
| bracelet. What? Yes! I saw
the man—and for five hours he
has been showing me designs. What! Don’t muss me
all up. What? I thought you would be ashamed. Let
this be a lesson to you. Never doubt me again,”

 

 

Cle etc.

But Take Heed

It is far better to tread the straight and narrow—
and never have to resort to Alibis. That is to say, for
some, it is. (For old men in wheel chairs.)

But

For those Regular ‘“He”-Boys—in Paris—a good
alibi, now and then, comes in handy. Don’t believe
the Brother who tries to tell you otherwise. A man is
a man and @ alibi is @ alibi.

(Not the Author’s sentiments. The above was over-
heard one evening during “Choir Practice.”’)And Now——

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THOSE NAUGHTY PLACES

Paris has the reputation of being the naughtiest city
in the world and it is true. Paris is Naughty. Naughty
if you want to look for it. The American Tourist goes
back home and whispers sly tales about Purplish

nights in Paris. It is not suggested that you want
to go DIRT-exploring in Paris. But if go you must,
and the Author does not at all advocate it, there is a
Right and a Wrong way to go.
(Surely, it is a kindness to tell
you this.) Do not go with a
so-called “Guide.” These
) “Guides” infest the Boule-
| vards from the Rue Royale
to the Opera. They sneak
up to you, want to sell you
NAUGHTY postcards, take
you to naughty cinemas, to
“houses” and “exhibitions.”
Walk away from them.The Right Way to Go to the Naughty
Places

You have made some friends in Paris. Go into con-
ference with these chaps. They live in Paris. They
know all “‘the Ropes.” Go with one of them. Or ask
to be directed.

THE NAUGHTIEST RESORTS IN PARIS

There is that certain house in the Rue Chabanais, the
most famous and beautifully appointed resort in the
world. The former Paris haunt of Edward VII
when Prince of Wales. A solid gold bathtub here.
And a marvelous Grotto. And rooms lavishly dec-
orated in the fashion of
every country.

Next there is that
place, number — Rue du
Faubourg Saint Martin,
the “House of Mystery”
where the occupants are
masked. And number
— Cite Pigalle, where
lights are low, and an
organ plays, and what

 

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108 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

is done, is done on a beautifully curtained off stage.
This, the de luxe “entertainment” of its kind in Paris.

And there is number — Sainte Appoline.

And the so-called “Booking Office” number — Rue
Blanche.

And Chez Jean. — Rue Victor Masse where every
Tuesday and Friday, at midnight, a show, of its kind,
incomparable, is put on. And there are two really
terrible Balls every year. The Quat’z’ Arts Ball (Pro-
nounced Kats-Artz), where, if you have even a Bead
on—you cannot get in. This happens in May. And
the Medical Students Ball, in June.

YOU ARE TOLD NOT TO VISIT THE
NAUGHTY PLACES

Such places are not for American women. Certainly
not for youths. Assuredly not for the circumspect.
And as plainly stated before, and emphasized now—
they are only for those of certain broad viewpoint who
absolutely demand to see this sort of thing. The sole
reason for the mention of such places, is that if you
must go, you will go under the proper auspices.
AVOID THE STREET GUIDES.

They will not steal your watch and chain but they
are grafters and collect at both ends. From you and
from the Resort Keepers, and they play strong
favorites. They will take you only to the place that
pays them the largest commission, and the chancesLalas hes bee:

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 109

are, that that place will be one you had rather not
have visited.

This is a hard subject to be writing about. There
will be certain good people reading this book, to whom
such places and such scenes as have been referred to,
have not the slightest appeal, and it is requested of
them, in all earnestness, to please disregard this sec-
tion of the book entirely. It is regrettable that it has
to be included, but as this particular phase of Paris
life is so absolutely dominant, no book about Paris
would be complete, without mention of it. And the
mention here is more as a “warning” than a “cata-
logue.” Please take it as such.

DO NOT VISIT THESE PLACES AT ALL. But
if you have particular leanings that way and are de-
termined to do so, then go under proper conditions.
Not with a street guide.

     
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    

 

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Here the Reference
Section Begins

(Referred to in the preceding “Time Tables.’’)

BREAKFAST IN ROOM

The French Hotel breakfast consists of nothing but
a pot of coffee and two crescent shaped rolls. Hot
milk is served with the coffee. This is sufficient to
tide you over, for an hour or two, ’till lunch time.

SEE ABOUT YOUR MAIL

The main Post office for American Tourists is the
American Express Co. But if you have a little “class”
and hold your head a bit high, you will not want to
stand in line with the typical “rubber stamp” tourists,
who flock in droves to the American Express Co. Use
this fine institution for other purposes. Have your
mail sent in care of a Bank.

For example:—

The Bankers Trust Co., Place Vendome.
Morgan-Harjes, Place Vendome.

The Guaranty Trust Co., Rue des Italiens.

The Equitable Trust Co., Rue de la Paix.

All have perfectly equipped Post Offices.

Do not be timid about using these facilities. There

is no red tape. Select anyone of the above 4 addresses,
IIoPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED III

and tell your office, family and friends, to forward your
mail in care of that institution. All are equally ac-
cessible.

 

DES AMBASSADEURS

The ultra-smart “class” restaurant of Paris, and the
only fashionable Revue restaurant. A Show with your
dinner, and the elite of the world as your table mates.
Princes, Lords, the Cloak and Suit Trade, the “Indus-
trial Aristocracy of the United States.”

Prices, here, higher than a cat’s back. When the
“check” comes, have handy a box of aspirin tablets
and your smelling salts. But there is dancing between
the acts; some really good entertainers and an ex-
tremely classy, flashy atmosphere. You will imagine
you are having a wonderful time, anyhow. Particu-
larly if the Mouse with you is beautiful and weak.

    
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
    

 

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112 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

And there is something—to look forward to. You must
go to Des Ambassadeurs. This is the place everyone
will ask you about when you get back home.

GO MEET THAT MARVELOUS MAN, NAMED “DOBES”

Find him at the American Express Co. Make this
your first stop. Dobes is the so-called “Tnformation
Man” here. He is asked and he answers thousands
of questions a day. But he is more than “Tnformation
Man.” Dobes is Mama, Papa, Big Brother, Big Sis-
ter, Guardian, Wet Nurse, Judge, Referee, Umpire,
to and for, every American in Paris. They question
him, quiz him, confide in him, “confess” to him, lay
bare their whole lives to him. He answers every ques-
tion—from “What is a Franc?” to “Do you really
think I should marry?” Dobes is the most tantalized,
nagged, hounded, persecuted MARTYR of the age.
Yet the most serene, sweet tempered, smiling man in
Paris. Go meet him—ask him any damphool ques-
tion and bang will come the answer. Dobes is also
a singer of note. But first and foremost, he is the
mainspring and mainstay of the American Express Co.
in Paris. Long May He Wave.

'GOUHATL Al TAXI

And that is easy. You think they have a few taxi-
cabs in New York. Here, Taxis climb up and down
your back and get in your hair. They are like gnats.
And watch out—they sneak right up behind you andPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 113

snap at your “rear.” And every Paris chauffeur has a
luxuriant shaving brush draped across his upper lip.
(Now you know where all those Horse-tails have
gone.) Gorgeous, stupendous, awe-inspiring Mous-
tachios.

Yes, there are a few million taxicabs in Paris and
they chase you. You don’t have to chase them. Dur-

 

 
 
 

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\

ing the day, you can ride all over Paris for the price
Then
the gentleman, avec le plus grande moustachios, makes
his Hay. Not when the sun shines; when the moon
shines. He can dope up his meter right while you are
looking at it. And you pay what it registers. Call
all the Gendarmes in the neighborhood and you will
only be making a blooming booby of yourself. But
don’t let it fret you. He may rob you at night but
you rob him in the daytime. The day rate is about one-
third the rate in New York.

  
  

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114 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

“Say TO THE CHAUFFEUR”

Don’t say anything to the chauffeur unless you can
say it in French. Not one of the “million and ten” of
them can even understand “‘yes” and “no” in English;
and because practically all Americans “fight and
holler,” they are dead set against you, before you
step a foot into their cab. By all means, learn to say
your numbers in French. For example, if you said
to a French taxi-driver: ‘(32 Rue Blondel,” the “32,”
he will not get, at all. You must say: “Trant deux
Rue Blondel.” ‘Trant deux” is 32, in French. Or
if you want to go to “12 Rue Chabanais,” say: “Douze
Rue Chabanais.”’ The importance of learning the
French numbers is not exaggerated.

SPECIAL NOTE

The surest way to get about in Paris taxicabs is to
take a pencil and print (not write) the address, to
which you wish to be taken, and show that to the
chauffeur. Follow the “TIME TABLE” and make
up these printed slips, for each day, to show to the
Taxi Driver. This not only shows him the numbers
but gives him the spelling of the streets, which, if your
French is not good, you will mispronounce. Print the
address. And this way, get anywhere, without con-
fusion. You don’t have to know where the place is, or
worry about it. The driver knows.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 115

THE MOST GLORIOUS RIDE OF YOUR LIFE
(The ride through the Champs Elysees and the

Bois de Boulogne.)

Say to the chauffeur, ‘Promenade le Bois.”

You may have motored much;

traversed many

beautiful thoroughfares; rolled through many Parks
but you are now taking the most gorgeous of all the
motor rides of all the world, the ride through the
Champs Elysees to the Bois de Boulogne. The world’s
finest residences; the Ateliers of the famous Modistes;
the ne plus ultra in shops; the finest, widest, most
glittering parked thoroughfare, flanked on both sides
by intriguing Terrace Cafes. Past the majestic
obelisk at the historic Place de la Concorde; the lovely
Tuileries Gardens, with their fountains, monuments,
statues and flowered paths, leading to the Louvre; the
stately Arc de Triomphe, inside of which burns the
everlasting flame at the bier of the Unknown Soldier.
This, the Champs Elysees. (Some call it “Champs
Ely-sus.”) Thence past the pink marble Palace of
the former Anna Gould, and into the glorious Bois de
Boulogne, with its lakes and swans and merry
pavilions, and waterfalls and acres of dense forests
and tall waving trees, and bowers of beautiful flowers.
And the most wonderful Race tracks in the world,
Longchamps and Auteuil. To the left, to the right,
ahead and back, never did your eye behold vistas, so
challenging to the imagination. And such equipages
as flash by. Rolls-Royces, Hispano-Suizas, Isotta

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116 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

laden ladies and meticulously groomed men. All the
beauty and the fashion of the world is crowded about
you in the Bois de Boulogne. Quite worth crossing
six oceans to look upon. And this Heavenly ride you
may take again and again. It costs you less than one
dollar.

“BEHOLD THE EMPRESS”

Once Josephine was Empress of Paris. But now

Paris has one, even more spectacular, ‘““The Empress

Mistinguett”. Mistinguett of the Revues. She, who

| has Paris all agog, and on its ear. “Hear she comes,”

“There she goes” is a veritable din along Paris Boule-

| vards. See Mistinguett billed to the sky, in a Mazda

blaze, before the biggest Music Hall. Or see her motor-

ing in the Bois in a dazzling car, of Creme and Mauve

‘ and on the box, her resplendently liveried footman and

chauffeur. Mistinguett, the wearer of a thousand eye

blinding gowns a season; the possessor of a mine of
diamonds, rubies, emeralds.

Mistinguett opening a Grand Ball; presiding over a
fashionable charity. ‘Mistinguett Dolls,” ‘“Mistin-
guett Perfumes,” ‘“Mistinguett Gramaphone Records,”
player piano rolls, music sheets. “Mistinguette” the
outstanding, flashing, crashing, kaleidoscopic woman
of all Europe. Every one you meet talks about her;
everywhere you go, you see her. And everyone who
knows her, loves her. Mistinguett is a great actress
and a great woman. She lives in regal state, just with-
out the gates of Paris, in the romantic old Chateau ofPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 117

Madame du Barry; and her parties are the most elabo-
rate and select of the Paris season. Mistinguett has
been on the Paris stage, many, many years, and so be-
loved is she, that upon her first entrance at every per-
formance, her audience stands and shouts its ‘‘Bravos”
and blows its kisses to her, across the footlights.

Also is she a great friend of Paris’ poor. A woman
of vast personal fortune, she bestows liberally upon
many French Charities.

CIRO’S FOR LUNCHEON

Get this over with. To go home from Paris with-
out having lunched at Ciro’s, would stamp you ever-
lastingly the Parvenu. You have been in twenty res-
taurants just like Ciro’s. In New York. In Chicago.
In Boston. Even in Cincinnati. A ceiling, four walls;
some carpet on the floor. Your fellow lunchers—
Americans, all of them. There is Joseph Zilch, Presi-
dent of the Buttonhole Makers Union of Hoboken.
There is Sol Ginsberg of “The Elite Cloak and Suit
Co.,” of New York. There is Mary Kolinsky, buyer
of Women’s Underwear for Skimbel Brothers, and
there is Abe Cohen, Director for Famous Slayers-
Casket Company. (And perhaps Mr. Famous, him-
self.) They are all here. If their names you do not
know, their faces are familiar. And not a single
Frenchman; not even on the sidewalk, outside. (A
Frenchman would be afraid that the fumes from the
“checks” the waiters hand the customers, might perco-
late under the door, to the street, and suffocate him.)

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118 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

The food in Ciro’s. No fault to find with the food.
But as Reuben Perkins of New Hampshire once said
when a friend asked him how he enjoyed the show
the night before—he shifted his terbaccer from one
cheek to the other and replied—‘“How could a feller
enjoy any show that cost $5.00 a ticket.” And so it
is at Ciro’s. How could you enjoy any slice of canta-
loupe that cost $1.00; or a Baby Lobster that cost
$2.25; or a cup of coffee that cost soc. But go to
Ciro’s and get this thrill. It is a grand and glorious
feeling. You will swell up with pride and importance,
if you have money enough to, all at one sitting, order
a slice of cantaloupe, a baby lobster and a cup of
coffee. But seriously; you, the Zilchs and the Gins-
bergs and the Kolinskys and the Cohens don’t go to
Ciro’s because you really like to spend the money.
You go, because others see you there, and they go
out and say they saw you. Ciro’s prices are the high-
est prices on the Globe. Your “check” will look like
the population of Pittsburgh. You wouldn’t think
they could get so many figures on one little piece of
paper. Ciro’s will take all your money; your United
Cigar store coupons; six shares of steel, four Liberty
Bonds—and your shirt. But you must go to Ciro’s,
once, anyhow.

THE RUE DE LA PAIX

Most expensive and luxurious street in the world.
World famed jewelers and modistes. Only two blocksPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 11g

long. From the Avenue de L’Opera to the Place Ven-
dome. Promenade the Rue de la Paix. Look in the
shop windows. Diamonds, big as baseballs. In a
single window, half a million dollars worth. But Pearl
White, in Paris, wears over half a million dollars worth
every time she goes to the delicatessen. And Pearl
now has a magnificent villa in Cairo, on the Nile, and
Pearl deserves it.

TAKE A MARVELOUS STROLL

Stroll down the Rue de la Paix to the Avenue de
Opera. Walk up the Avenue de |’Opera to the Rue
Saint Honoré. Look in the shop windows. Walk back
on the opposite side again to the Rue de la Paix and up
the other side to the Place Vendome. Turn right to
the Hotel Ritz. Into the Ritz bar.

THE RITZ BARS

Where you go to see the Best People at their worst
These, the most exclusive bars in Paris. And two of
them. One especially for women. A tiny box-like
room, scarcely more than fifteen feet square. Dick
Kleegan calls it “The Black Hole of Calcutta” and
“The Steamroom.” Densely packed in here are
American Flappers, Cinema Queens, stage belles and
alimony spenders. The smartest, pertest little cubby
hole in the world. And these people are not the Tour-
ists, but the really high class American men and
women who come regularly to Paris and who are low-

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
   
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
  
   

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120 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

voiced and non-spectacular. The great drink is a
“Champagne Cocktail.” A tall one for ten francs.
Same in the Men’s bar. Make these Bars your regu-
lar Rendezvous. Drink champagne cocktails and
nibble chip potatoes with the best Americans in Paris.
Go any time between noon and seven o’clock. Cock-
tail time is five o’clock. If you appreciate “class,” you
will find it plus, in these Bars, at the Ritz.

For example. Just glance around. There is Clay
Morgan, Edward Milton Royle, Ralph Whitehead, Paul
Frawley, Jack Donohue, John McGlynn, Mason
Peters, Frank Belcher, Robert “Wetzel” Curry. There
is Joe Kilgour, Charlie Purcell, Morgan Coman,
Tommy Cowan, Fred I. Lewis, Edwin Mordaunt, Al-
bert Phillips, Irving Fisher, Gerald Bacon, Stanley
Ridges, George Le Guerre. All the elite of New York’s
Rialto. Actors, artists, lions of society. And the
famous Jack Stone, “Sausage King” of Paris. His
immense Pig farm, just outside the city, and his sau-
sages on the tables of every smart Restaurant. And
meet the radiant ‘Frank,’ Manager of the Ritz Bar.
Frank has more friends and knows more Paris than
any living man. And if you are not yet satisfied with
the Class of your fellow Drinkers, here comes Roger
Ferger, “Prince of Cincinnati,’ whose wardrobe, ’tis
said, is second only to the Prince of Wales and whose
good looks cause a feminine stampede at his every
appearance on every mid-town Boulevard. And there
is America’s greatest Surgeon, F. Tone Cavill; Amer-
ica’s greatest Lawyer, Jerry F. Katz; America’s great-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 121

est Advertising Expert, P. B. Littlehale; America’s
greatest Insurance Agent, F. D. Cochran; America’s
greatest Manufacturer, R. Hoyt Sloan; America’s
greatest Motion Picture magnate, Sam Morris; Amer-
ica’s greatest Diamond Merchant, Jules Oppenheimer;
and “America’s Greatest” in every other Profession
and commercial enterprise. The place to see them all
in Paris, is in the Ritz Bars.

THE JOLLIEST DRIVE IN PARIS

Over the chain of Grand Boulevards. Tell the
chauffeur—‘‘Promenade les Boulevards, de la Made-
leine, Capucines, des Italiens, Poissonniere, Bonne
Nouvelle, Saint Denis, Saint Martin, Place de la Re-
publique, Place de la Bastille. Retournez a l’Hotel.”
And what a ride this is. You will be surprised, de-
lighted, thrilled. Now you know more about Paris in
one hour than the mere Tourist ever will know. And
many of them have never even heard of the Grand
Boulevards. They have traversed the Madeleine and
the Capucines and that is all.

RUE DE RIVOLI

Largest and most shop-crowded Tourist Promenade
in Paris. A mile of bauble-packed shop windows, glit-
tering gee-gaws, tea-rooms and hotels. Along here,
The Continental Hotel, The Meurice (where the
Prince of Wales stops and The Eminent Wilton
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122 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

nade, the entire distance, is topped by an overhanging
stone canopy. Like walking through an arcade, only
that one side is open. Spend easily an hour going from
one end to the other, looking in the windows. The
“sucker” shops of Paris. Paste jewelry and every
novelty and Souvenir ever conceived. A place where
you pay $2.00 for something worth soc.

HOTEL CLARIDGE

On the Champs Elysees. A high-priced Hotel, with
a lane of glittering showcases running from one end of
it to the other. Here a Tea Dance, each afternoon.
Two bands. A Jazz band and a Tango band. Enor-
mously popular in Paris is the Tango, but only the
Argentines know how to dance it. The best place in
| Paris for an afternoon dance. See all the visiting
Buyers here. And a hundred dashing, dazzling,
darling (?) damsels, eager to “come over” and keep

you from being lonesome.

THE GRAND BOULEVARDS

How wonderful, how interesting is this promenade.
You start at the Rue Royale, at the Church of the
Madeleine, where Napoleon married Marie Louise.
Here, also, the Flower market. Buy here enough
flowers for a dollar to win yourself a ‘““Home.” Walk
down the Boulevard de la Madeleine for two blocks,
then look up at the sign post and you will discover that
you are now on the Boulevard des Capucines. A fewPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 123

more blocks along the Boulevard des Capucines and
you are on the Boulevard des Italiens. Then this one
changes to the Boulevard Montmartre; and that one,
to the Boulevard Poissonniere. And that one to the
Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, and then all of a sudden,
this one changes to Saint Martin. It is strange to you.
You have traversed all of these Grand Boulevards in
a straight line. You haven’t turned a single corner.
The Boulevards changed names each two or three
blocks. But what a Promenade. The gala Promenade
of Paris. Paris’ Bowery. See the gay little Cafes,
the Dudeish French Sheiks, the wiggly little Cocottes.
Cafes by the score. All with tables on the sidewalks
called “Terraces.” Here the real Parisian sits and
drinks and makes merry, from one dawn to another.
These cunning little sidewalk tables with all about the
bustle of a carnival. Itinerant musicians and vendors.
Shops, Movies, Fakirs, Merry-go-rounds, Roller
coasters, Shooting galleries. A street carnival,
actually. And banked behind the booths are box cars,
fitted up as dwellings. Here the itinerant merchants
and carnivalites live. Here, they cook and keep
house.

In Paris there is an ever-present spirit of good fel-
lowship. In Paris, every opportunity is given every
man to get the most possible out of his life. The
most in money, the most in pleasure. And you never
see an arrest. Never hear an argument. The Gen-
darmes walk among the people, enter into their fun
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124 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
   

natured men imaginable. Seldom do you read of a
crime or even a misdemeanor, in Paris. And on Féte
days like Mi-caréme and Bastille Day, bands play
and the people dance in the open street. A beautiful
sort of a “Live and let live” Brotherly love is here.
Everybody is happy. And you catch the spirit of it
and are thrilled. You love Paris each day, more and
more. Not seated stiff backed, up in Ciro’s, but down
here, along these Boulevards, mingling with these
| simple, child-like gayety-seeking people. The people
who really belong here. And after the deceit and the
coldness and the thievery and the thuggery and the
graft of some other cities you have known, these
honest French folk seem like babies to you, and you
take them right to your heart. And the marvelous
food you can get in these little sidewalk cafes and the
beautiful wines and liqueurs, and the fine string or-
chestras that play for you as you sit and sip and sup
out in the open. And the singers with really good
voices. And the (to you) modest prices of everything.
This is the life and this is the phase of Paris life that
lifts you out of the Tourist Class and settles Paris as
your part-time home for the rest of your life. You
leave Paris only to look forward to an early return.
(You taxi over these Grand Boulevards now, but some
day soon, you will come back and walk over them.)

DRESS FOR DINNER

And dressing for dinner should be as much of a
man’s daily routine, as his morning bath and his shave.Sota s end!

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 125

It is no event “dressing” for the evening. It requires
no formal function to call out one’s Dinner Jacket.
What more is it than the mere common habit of a
Gentleman? Yet some men, rather than “Dress,”
would prefer a toothache. When dressing is men-
tioned, they strike a haughty attitude. Their nose
goes up in the air, and with all the hauteur and disdain
of an English Butler dismissing his Master, they say:
“Me dress, I should say not. You can, but I’ll be
damned if I do.” To them, a dinner jacket is a
straight jacket. And they call ita Tuxedo!// A din-
ner jacket has not been a “Tuxedo” since Spark Plug
won the Brown Derby. Etiquette demands that every
man shall dress every night on the Ocean and every
night that he dines formally, or goes to a Theatre.
Let the American man swing around and put an end
to the Foreigner’s ridicule of his attire. Let him also
observe the trend in men’s fashions and select and
wear his clothes with distinction. Let him look for-
ward to the “pepping up,” the refreshening effect of
“dressing for dinner.”

Changing the garments worn all day for fresh ones
in the evening is a tonic. Those who are opposed, let
them once try it. Do not “dread to dress,” love
to dress. It lifts you right up. Makes you feel—
“somebody.”

THE FLORIDA

The very smartest of the after-midnight Dance
Places of Paris. No Cabaret, but professional Ball-

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126 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

room dancers. A Jazz orchestra and a Tango band.
The floor, of different colored squares of glass with
lights shining through. A great rendezvous for South
Americans, said to be the best looking and best
groomed men in the world. Scores of them here at the
Florida and each, with a woman, laden with the big-
gest diamonds you ever gazed upon. They give dolls
away; balloons are buffeted about and little cotton
balls, thrown at one another. The top price for
champagne, but you can afford it. ’Tis nothing, com-
pared to New York prices. And they play all the
national anthems of the Argentine and everyone stands
and sings. Always a good party here.
You will like The Florida.

CHAMPAGNE COMPULSORY

. At every after-midnight place, you can buy cham-
pagne only. (You refer to it, familiarly, as ‘“Fizz.”)
But what of it? In New York, you pay a cover charge
of $5 per person. In Paris, no cover charge—and a
quart of the best champagne, enough for two, to last
for an hour, costs no more than $5. How innocent.
And it matters not, if you are a Teetotaler and don’t
drink a drop, you must buy it anyhow. It is your
badge of entry. A bottle of champagne must be on
every table. (Such torture. Ha!)

 

FLORENCE’S

In Rue Blanche, Montmartre. The real, ripping,
hotsy-totsy place of Paris, this one. Entirely of col-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 127

ored folks. And how they do strut and shout and
fling themselves about. And the band and the quar-
tette and the solo singers and “Frisco” and Florence,
herself; and the chicken Maryland and the corned
beef hash, between dances. And the crowd and the
spirit. You will have one of your best nights in Paris,
at Florence’s.

This big black man “Frisco” has no equal on earth
as a shouter, a stepper and a master of ceremonies.
Princes, Lords and Dukes come here and love it.
“Frisco” pulls them right out of their chairs, no matter
how blazing their coat of arms; and he drags them
out into the middle of the floor and they Charles-
ton and Blackbottom and do everything he tells them
to do; and in return they plaster 100 franc notes all
over his perspiring face; and then everybody in the
place, rocks the walls with a joy-thunder that rumbles
like a dynamite explosion in a subway. And Florence,
whose place it is, croons and makes you cry while her
husband, Palmer Jones, tickles the ivories; and that
big dusky boy who sings Tenor; Honey Lamb—it
comes to you like a sweet evening breeze blowing over
a candy factory. Florence has made a fortune. No
color-line in Paris. If you go into Florence’s with
any silly snobbery, it’s a cut glass piano scarf to a
rusty tin dipper, that Florence and Frisco will win you
over. This place is one of those 18 karat diamond-
studded “Sure Things.” And if there is any great
American actress in Paris or famous millionaire or

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128 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

celebrity of any status, and you want to find her, or
him, the very surest place to look is Florence’s.

Tonight the center of attraction is John W. Ryan.
Of New York. A giant in stature; a giant of Finance
and a Giant of Good Fellows. John, as usual, buys
wine for everyone in the place. And has the time of
his life. With him is Granville Burton, Hat king of
New York; also leading light throughout all Mont-
martre; and William Skinner, who directs New York’s
Gold-plated Hotels. Go to Florence’s if you don’t go
anywhere else.

LES HALLES

This, a big thrill. The great market place of Paris.
At crack of Dawn, hundreds of hucksters open up
their vegetables and fruits right out on the street and
begin to do business. Every restaurant in Paris buys
here; and thousands of thrifty housewives. It is a
great sight, in the early gray of the morning and a
beautiful gray it is to match the dark brown taste on
your tongue, after your round of the Cafes. You
have done all the usual stunts in your day. Here is
something new. And when you come to Les Halles—
go to——

AU PERE TRANQUILLE
For Onion Soup

This, a quaint workingman’s cafe. In the center
of the market. You go upstairs. The hucksters drink
and eat downstairs. A funny little orchestra. Youcan dance

     
 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 129

or sing. Other “slummers” all around you,

in evening dress. There is Frank Fay, your favorite

American
Manville.
they hate

vaudevillian, and that prince chap, Tommy
They are out to see it all, too. And, oh, how
that onion soup. Yes, sir—‘‘a good time

was had by all.” Here at Au Pere Tranquille. In the
great Market Place. Les Halles.

LUNCH AT CAFE DE PARIS

See Ciro’s. Same description fits both. You must

come here
a window

once, anyhow. A landmark. You can have
table, and sit back and hope and pray that

someone you know back home will happen to be pass-
ing and look up and see you. The food, excellent.

Therefore

this is the favorite dining place of that king

of epicures, George Nash, when in Paris. And of
George Vivian, Robert Pitkin, Lionel Adams, John Mil-
tern, Averil Harris, Col. I. R. Nelson, Dave Herblin
and Helen Green Weiler of Cincinnati, and A. J.
Herbert, popular English actor. See them lunching
many a day at Cafe de Paris.

CAFE DE LA PAIX

Hundreds of thousands of Tourists pour into Paris

each year.

Everyone of the “hundreds of thousands”

finds the Cafe de la Paix. They go to it, over and
Over again, and sprawl themselves out on the Ter-
race; order a 3 franc drink and sit and “‘rubber”’ at the

passersby
Paris, the
Opera.

for hours. On the most prominent corner in
Boulevard des Capucines and the Avenue de
The biggest Restaurant building, the. long-

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130 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

est expanse of sidewalk tables, the greatest army of
waiters, the most systematized service, the best coffee
and the cheapest “‘kill-time” spot in Paris. It is a
tradition, that if you want to see anyone in Paris, and
you sit in front of the Cafe de la Paix long enough,
that person will pass. Sooner or later. And you will
come here, time and time again. It is the most famous
and accessible corner in the city. But come only
between-times. Don’t let it conflict with your “TIME
/ TABLE.”

It is a great vantage point to watch the promenading
tourists, the ‘Ladies of the Boulevards,” the real
Parisians, the Gigolos, the male Perverts, the taxicabs,
the hawkers, the beggars. Old men and old women in
rags and tatters picking up discarded cigarette stubs.
A great rendezvous. The place to tell your friends
to meet you.

Inside this Cafe is also one of the finest Restaurants.
And here you will meet two of the most noted women
of America, both of whom now reside in Paris. Mrs.
Charles Rector of the famous “‘Rector’s” of New York.
And Mrs. Stephen C. Baldwin, widow of Manhattan’s
best known Criminal Lawyer. ‘Reccie” and “Edie,”
as they are known to hundreds, are two of the most
sought after social lights of Paris and no smart func-
tion is ever given without them. Both have notable
collections of Jewels, 3 or 4 swagger motors and own
an interest in one of the large Racing stables of France.
They dine at least three evenings each week, at the
Cafe de la Paix. And with all the pomp and cere-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 131

mony of Empresses. And here also meet that big
Book Man, John G. Kidd of Cincinnati, and those
great Thespians, Eddie Foy, Thomas W. Ross, De
Wolf Hopper, Harland Dixon, Theodore Mitchell, Clar-
ence Oliver, A. J. Herbert, Frank McHugh, Richie
Ling, Averil Harris, and Sid Weinstein, whose “Best
Girl” is his marvelous Mother.

LEARN TO ORDER FOOD BY “SEASON”

You know where to eat and when to eat—now find
out what to eat. By month. By season. The fine
art and charm of dining is not in flopping into a Res-
taurant, grabbing the menu, sweeping it quickly with
your eye and calling to the waiter, “Give me some
of this; give me some of that.” Just the same old
“Bread, meat and potatoes” that everyone else orders.
Why not know Food as you know other fine things?
Why be at the mercy of a menu, at all? Why not
order the dinner in your mind before you enter the
restaurant? Two or three hours before. What a
gorgeous idea. The thrilling anticipation of it. How
much nicer to know the novel, the exceptional, the
exquisite in foods and when they are in season. Not
just any dish; any old commonplace food like “Corn
beef and Cabbage” or “Ham and Sauerkraut.” You
never knew there were so many marvelous foodstuffs.
And you can have them all, in Paris. Show the Head-
waiter that you know as much about beautiful food
as he does.

Take every month of the year. Just see and marvel

    
   
  
   
  
   
    
 
 
 
 
  
    
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

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132 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

at what each month reaches out to you in the way of
epicurean delicacies.

JANUARY

Eat turkey, capon, chicken, rabbit, goose, lark,
pheasant, partridge, widgeon, woodcock, wild duck,
plover, snipe, teal, hare, venison. Eels, smelts, oysters,
turbot, cod, carp, cravettes, lobsters. Spinach, endive,

brussels sprouts.
FEBRUARY

The month of green geese, whitebait, giant aspara-
gus, globe artichokes, pronns, pigeons, truffles.

MARCH

The abundant Fish month. Sole, plaice, flounder,
eels, perch, pike, smelts, carp. Early green peas.
Moor fowl and plover. Some choice dishes are Ome-
lette aux Huitres (oysters), Filet de Soles Colbert,
Mackerel Hollandaise, Turbot Dieppoise, or Perche
gratinee or brochet en dauphin.

APRIL

Red and gray mullets, fresh herrings, ham, lamb,
spring chicken. Plover’s eggs are the hors d’oeuvres of
the month.

MAY

The great delight of May is the variety of fresh
vegetables. The early green pea with sweetbreads,
and pigeons and baby chickens and ducklings. And
the mushroom and the first strawberries.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 133
JUNE

Here is a typical June dinner. Green pea soup.

Turbot with lobster sauce. Saddle of lamb, mint
sauce. Asparagus and new potatoes. Roast duck.
Hearts of Lettuce salad, strawberries and cream. Or
substitute a luscious home-grown chicken, roasted to a
golden brown, with creamy bread sauce; cherry pie.
After that a fragrant slice of camembert and a pony
of Brandy

TOLY
Veal now is at its best and French veal is the best
of all. Tomatoes are getting ripe and melons and
plums and the last of the strawberries. An ideal July
dinner is cantaloupe frappe, consomme en gelee.
Poulet poche aux concombres, pommes risoles, fraises
Romanoff. Iced coffee.

AUGUST

The month of the suckling pig, the peach, the green
fig, the grouse and venison and mutton.

SEPTEMBER

The grape gathering month. The month of par-
tridges and oysters and abundant fruit. And the
French Thrush is in perfection. (Their own orgies
on the grape vines give them a fine flavor.) Order
your “Thrush au Chasseur a la Choucroute.” Or
have it Au Choux or Swathed in fat bacon.

    
  
  
  
   
 
   
   
   
   
  
   
  
   
  
 
    

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134 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

OCTOBER
Mackerel comes in now. And pheasants. A pheas-
ant pie, sautee with truffles; served with an orange
salad and chip potatoes.

    
   
 
  
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
   
  
 
 
 
   

NOVEMBER

Now we welcome the Turkey. And the Chestnut.
And November is the month of soups, Petit Marmite
or-Pot au Feu and mutton broth.

DECEMBER

The month of feasting. A York ham basted in
Champagne and spiced sausages. Turtle soup. Plum
pudding. Roast turkey.

MOULIN ROUGE

The most famous of Paris Music Halls. The sign
of the old Red Mill, which revolves continually. This,
the center of the life of Montmartre, the tenderloin
of Paris. A big, flashy Revue here. 100 girls who
do not wear even a bangle. A fortune spent on this
production. A band plays in the Foyer during inter-
mission. Everyone leaves their seats, promenades and
drinks. Best orchestra chairs, $2.00. For a show that
ranks with some of the best on Broadway. Well worth
while. Also a Roof Garden on top of the building and
you can dine here. A great ceremony of tipping. And
at all other Paris Music Halls, the same. You tip a
Red uniformed boy for opening the cab door. TipPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 135

another for getting your “order” exchanged for a
ticket, tip in advance to check your hat; pay 5 francs
for a program, tip the usher for each person in your
party. And still more tipping as you go out. The
show is long; running until midnight. The custom of
drinking and eating in another part of the building
during this intermission is a novelty. Also a naughty
exhibition of Oriental Dancers. How tame by com-
parison is theater-going in America.

THE SEINE

A narrow little ribbon of a River that runs through
the center of Paris and separates the Left Bank from
the Right Bank. The Left Bank, principally, the
“Latin Quarter” and the Right Bank, Paris proper.
About 150 Bridges across the Seine. At intervals of
a block or two. And some of these bridges, magnifi-
cent examples of sculpture and decoration. What can
one say about a mere River of water—in Paris, when
there are so many beautiful Rivers of Wine. But, oh,
yes—there is

THE BOAT RIDE

There are many boat landings along the Seine. The
most accessible one, off the Place de la Concorde. One
of the jolliest, most unusual and interesting things you
can do, is go down and take the little Passenger Boat
and ride up toward Vincennes; traveling through
the lane of old gray castle-like buildings with their
towers and minarets; and past old streets pregnanta
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136 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

with romantic history. Don’t ride far, your maiden
voyage. Buy a ticket to Austerlitz. Tourists don’t
know about this stunt. And it is a barrel of fun; and
so simple. You step right off the Place de la Con-
corde onto the boat. Costs about 2 francs.

RESTAURANT LANGER

A flashy, fashionable restaurant, yet in the most
beautiful parked section of the Champs Elysees.
Good food, music and people. A favorite dining place
of that Pet of the Boulevards, the Dashing Charles I.
Scott. And of those other debonair lads, George Fen-
ton, Oscar Brod, P. Dodd Ackerman, Paul Everton,
Clarence Nordstrom, Harland Dixon, Alan Rogers,
Michael Kurz, George Tarler, A. J. Seifert, Don Camp-
bell, Bert Gardner, Walter Ibold, Newman Samuel,
Donald Foster, Charles L. Bailey, William Roselle and
John Davidson Dickson.

LE PERROQUET

About as well known an after-midnight dancing
place as The Florida. An expensive doll given away
here to every Lady. A professional dance team. Good
music and a lively place. One of the very fashionable
rooms. Decorations, most bizarre.

TAKE THE BUS MARKED “AS”

Another cute stunt. Go take a Bus ride. Get the
fun out of riding as a commoner. Fare less than aPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 137

franc. Bus divided by a partition. One side, first
class; other side, second class. When second class
is full, the Parisians drape themselves, all over the
back platform, and stand up. The first class is a bit
more expensive. Up the Boulevards des Capucines and
Madeleine, through the Rue du Faubourg Saint
Honoré, past the Palace of the President and the
Ministry Buildings; into the Champs Elysees, to the
Arc de Triomphe; through the beautiful and bustling
Avenue Victor Hugo, past one of the finest residential
avenues in the world, the Avenue Henri Martin.
(Here the home of the famous Philips Ambler, known
to all Paris as the Duke de Cheval-Blanc.) And on to
Port Saint Cloud. A glorious ride. For four cents.
You will like it. And there are fifty other Bus routes,
starting from the Opera House. The way to learn
Paris. And mingle with the people.

DELMONICO’S

Same description as of Cafe de Paris.

HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR
5 Rue Daunou, near Rue de la Paix

This, about as important an institution in Paris, as
the French Chamber of Deputies. That is, to you, it
will be. Because here, is one of the breeziest, buzziest,
bang-uppiest places on earth. The fountain Head of
that glorious and edifying order, “The International
Bar Flies”; its members, men and women of the

    
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
  
  
 
 
  
 
  
 

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138 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

loftiest station. Each one, solemnly initiated by the
famous Harry, himself. Harry McElhone. Harry’s
New York Bar becomes a habit. It grips. You never
shake it off. You will never want to shake it off.
You enter. Your first visit. You introduce yourself
to Harry. Then hope as hard as ever you can that
you look good to him. If you do, not only will you be

ia

 

initiated into the “I. B. F.’s,’ but you will be intro-
duced, all hands ’round. And in this place, that fore-
casts much. It means an immediate “gang” for you.
The bulliest boys and girls of the American and Eng-
lish Colony in Paris. Famous War Correspondents,
and newspaper men. Artists, Actors, Diplomats,
Sporting Men, the Bon Vivants of Paris. You will
be one of them. If you can qualify. Meet Sparrow
Robertson, international sports writer. Tom Topping,
Genius of the Associated Press, and most popular
newspaper man in Europe. Charlie Kinney, Erskine
Gwynne, Dick Kleegin, Floyd Gibbons, Arthur Moss,and all the Regulars of Paris.
in the rear of Harry’s where you can sit your Lady
down. And cartoons on the walls by the famous SEM.
The environment here of a high class Club.
most particular Rendezvous in Paris will be Harry’s
And lose no time in being elected an
“International Bar Fly.”

(The President, or Big Blue Bottle-Fly, is the
famous American writer, O. O. McIntyre.)

And here follows some bits from the I. B. F. Ritual.

New York Bar.

“THE CODE OF THE BAR FLIES”
(Written by Jack Dean)

As we buzz around this old world of ours,
Let’s live as we fly on our way,

Goodfellowship is the rarest of flow’rs,
Its fragrance will sorrow allay.

So. “Here’s to The Bar Flies,” “Good fellows all.”
Give the toast with a loud ringing cheer;

May we always be “Bar Flies” until the last Cally:

Good hearted! Broad minded!

Let’s Live and Let Live sans malice or spite.
From Neighbors’ affairs, keep afar,

The man who today’s proclaimed in the right,
Tomorrow wears feathers and tar.

The “I. B. F.’s” all know Flies should be Free.
Untrammeled by Bigotry’s Blight,

Pursuing our Happiness, pledging Liberty,

It’s our own God-given Birthright.

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

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140 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Youve all seen a Bird fly. You've all seen a horse-fly,
You’ve all seen a House fly as well,

You've all seen your coin fly. You’ve all seen your

kin fly,

When you’ve had hard luck tales to tell.

But when you see a “Bar Fly” a true “I. B. F.” guy,
Give him “The Grip” with a welcome yell:
Then both drink the bar dry,
“Fill them up once more,” cry,

For a “Bar Fly” to be Bar Dry, is Hell!

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1. The I. B. F. is a secret and sacred fraternal or-
ganization devoted to the uplift and downfall

of serious drinkers.

2. Members must buy—if not at the moment, some
time. What is a decade among friends?PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 141

 

un ay

3. Any member of the I. B. F. caught cutting out
paper dolls after a bad night must hand in his
resignation.

 

 

4. Those who come to the Trap at 5 A. M. and are
able to play a ukelele without a rehearsal are
eligible for life membership.

 

 

 

 

5. Members bumping their chins on the bar rail
in the act of falling are suspended for ten days.

      
   

 

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

6. Members who have the idea they can wallop
Tunney are notified that there is a plastic sur-
geon on duty day and night close to all Traps.

 

they do their weeping in the toilet, and also
bring their own mops.

 

 

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8. Back Slapping after six drinks should be
tempered with mercy. Remember many B. F.’s
have false teeth.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

g. Those seeing cerise cats with purple ears should
keep it to themselves. Traps are not zodlogical
gardens.

  

10. Those spiffing about ‘“‘The best little woman in
the world” and staying for another round must
pay for it.

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144 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

   
  
 
  

 

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will be penalized drinks to all I. B. F.’s present.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 145

 
  

  
   

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And here we have the Initiation Ceremony of the
International Bar Flies. Administered by Harry, him-
self. Most solemnly.

‘Flick a member on the left shoulder as if a fly were
there, and give him the grip which is natural to all
I. B. F.’s; the Right hand extended as if holding a
glass of whiskey; the Right foot raised the height of
a Bar Rail; and then Buzz.”

You are now an “International Bar Fly.’ Con-
gratulations. Buy adrink. “Buy” for everyone in the
Place. Be a worthy member!

And there is a Subsidiary Order, to the International
Bar Flies, called

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146 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

THE AMALGAMATED ORDER OF BEER
SHIFTERS

(and here are the Regulations of this noble order)

1. All members must have a holding capacity of
at least two liters.

2. Any member going to bed sober will be asked to
resign.

3. No member shall give up beer for the sake of
work.

4. Any member growing round shouldered through
pushing bar doors open will be pensioned off.

5. Should any member get fined for “D. T.’s,” he
must on no account pay the fine but spend the
cash on beer for members when he comes out.

6. Any Member signing the pledge will be imme-
diately expelled.

7. All members should join the “Drink more beer”
movement by insisting that bars should serve
less froth.

8. Members should not blow the froth off, as it’s
a waste of beer.

9. All members of the I. B. F. and A. O. B. S. are
notified that beer is classed as a beverage and
not as a regular drink.

1o. Members are warned that the only “Froth”
allowed in the bar is the froth on the beer.

N. B. All I. B. F.’s are honorary members of the
above order.

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 147

LEE FFT ESSE PLR DUPRE ISIN Ty ct TE

Both of these respected Orders are exclusive to
Harry’s. And if you have a drop of that rich, red
blood, and want some dandy good companions—go
to Harry and beg to be admitted to the inner shrine
of the I. B. F.’s and the A. O. B. S.’s. It is one of the
finest frolics in Paris. You will get a real old-time Ht
kick out of it.

HENRY’S BAR

Known as the Club Volney. Corner Rue Volney and
Rue Daunou. One block from Boulevard des Capu-
cines. Another great rendezvous for the Tip-Top
Tads of Paris, and you will find here, a great sports-
man, Bob Lloyd, Emperor of this exclusive Paradise
of Beverage and Cameraderie.

If you are “Regular,” Bob Lloyd will be glad to
welcome you, and to be welcomed at Henry’s is no
mean compliment. Meet here also Sam B. Jackson
and Charlie Brazelle, the Perfume Prince. Two other
great Americans. And in the smart Back Room
here, come the most charming women of the American
Colony, in Paris. You will never be lonesome once
you qualify for this “back room” at Henry’s. Henry’s
is also the haunt of the famous Jockeys of the golden
olden days. Johnnie Reif, Frank O’Neil, Skeets Mar-
tin, Mat McGee, Guy Garner. And of that “Maker
of Stars” of the stage, Robert Hosea, international
vocal instructor; the man who taught John Barry-
more, Marilyn Miller, John Steel, Clare Luce and
many other present-day celebrities. They all gravitate

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148 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

to Henry’s. No more congenial atmosphere in all
Paris. Actually, an Exclusive Club. Drop in here,
often.

THE FOLIES BERGERE

Another riotous, eye-popping, head-pounding Revue.
A Ziegfeld Follies and a George White Scandals rolled
into one. Not in talent and entertainment—but in
costuming and scenic investiture. A crash-bang noisy
spectacle with armies of nude girls, and acrobatic
dancers, and so many scene shifts you get dizzy. Also,
a great feature, the Promenade between the parts. A
Jazz Band plays. The audience leaves its seats, and
drinks for half an hour. The place is alive with
Cocottes. But beware of them. Not attractive.
Neither are the French girls, on the stage, attractive.
: The “make-up,” terrible. Eyelids smeared with
purple; lashes plastered with mascara; cheeks painted
yellow and rouged on top. And many on the Boule-
vards and in the Cafes look this same way. A French
chorus girl has no lure for an American man. Their
chatter is cute, their accent, fascinating; the toss of
their hips intriguing, but that is all. You must come
to Paris to realize that the prize baby-dolls of all the
world live in America. No other women, anywhere,
can hold a candle to them. For looks, for charm, for
style, for chic, for speed, for companionship. Come
and use Paris as a playground. But bring your own
Mouse with you. Else find yourself a “Miss New
York” after you get here. You can’t play otherwise.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 149

There’s no “thrill” in the other kind. (This “knock”
is not meant for the Refined French Girl, The “Lady.”
She is beautiful, charming, marvelous.)

ZELLI’S

Perhaps the best known Night Resort in Paris. A
big, noisy room with a hundred ‘“Hostesses” and
“Gigolos.” (A Gigolo is a male vamp.) And Joe
Zelli, himself, the greatest single human attraction in
Paris. Joe of the spectacular personality; the cham-
pion Bologna Tosser of the Universe. Everything with
Joe is “Royal.” He will usher you to the Royal Box;
ask you how your “Royal Liver” is; tell the waiter to
bring you the “Royal Bottle”; give you the “Royal
Wine Bucket,” and have the ‘Royal Orchestra” play
for you the “Royal selections.” Joe is a great, grin-
ning, good-time guy, and he will give you many a
gladsome hour. And there are 740 girls, more or less,
to dance with, and everyone is affectionate, hungry,
thirsty and broke. You also meet all the Brothers and
Sisters, you came over on the boat with, at Zelli’s.
And if Joe thinks you are anybody at all, he calls in
a well-known caricaturist. You pose while he sketches
you, and this sketch goes up on the wall. A cagy
idea. You bring everybody you meet, after that, down
to Zelli’s, just to show them that picture.

Joe Zelli takes all the glory away from Barnum.
Barnum was never the showman that Joe Zelli is.
And Joe is worth a million dollars now. All made
in 7 years—and with “Personality.” Nothing else.ESTAS HErEses ita isavarilesit rata ezeers aa ber ba tet set ia royand ais sors rea ve tes Er EE SSetetesSLSVesSsORFLEsEOissic eteesecis Levee ereeeeee

   

150 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Go into Zelli’s in 1927; open 3 bottles of wine. Stay
away 3 years, come back, and Joe will rush to meet
you and call you by your first name, and you will love
it. And Joe is kind. He gives away a hundred thou-
sand francs a month to Charities. Here at Zelli’s you
meet one of the world’s most spectacular Play-Boys—
Jimmy Knox of Knox Gelatine fame. Jimmy’s table
looks like the show window of a liquor store on a
Saturday night. Count 19 bottles of Pol Roger at
one time. This Knox lad is the Champion Wine Buyer
of Montmartre. And twenty girls around him. He
will sit there, straight through to the Dawn; then
“close the place,” give every musician a 1oo franc tip;
and every girl and Gigolo the same, and take his own
twenty damsels to Mitchell’s, and buy them a break-
fast of ham and eggs. (And it is said of him, that he
never “makes love.”) The next night and the next
and the next, Jimmy Knox will repeat the program.
And nowhere else, but at Zelli’s. With him will al-
ways be his closest chum and Guardian, Paul Kind,
also in the Gelatine business, and a big, good gink.
By all means, go to Zelli’s.

THE CAPITOLE

A bizarre, typically Parisian midnight rendezvous,
famous for onion soup. You can dance, drink, inhale
the soup and get set for bed. This, the last stop. The
climax of a night. If you know those popular Play-
Boys from Broadway, John Gallaudet, Hugh O’Con-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 151

nel, Harold Woolf and Edward Butler. If they are in
Paris you will find them at The Capitole,

THOSE FRENCH CAFES

Called Bistros. Cutest places in Paris. And they
give to the City of Paris much of its charm and Bo-
hemianism. Find a Bistro on most every corner; and
4-5-6 to a block. All have tables outside, on the
sidewalk, and when you promenade, you wind in and
out among these tables. Sit down at one, order a
Porto rouge, or a Cafe noir and a Brioshe; and you
are sO cozy, so content, so enthralled with the ever
streaming panorama, you find it difficult to move. Ex-
cept to get up and walk to another one on the next
block. Crowds at these sidewalk cafes. The entire
population of Paris, it seems, sits down to drink and
chatter. Charming, indeed. It is these Terrace-Side-
walk tables that weave a spell over the entire land-
scape and give to Paris an ever gala and Féte-like
aspect. And everything so inexpensive. A glass of
wine for a franc. Wine is the only thing drunk.

The Paris laboring man, the plasterer, and the
painter, in his white jumpers and wooden shoes, comes
into the Bistro and stands, in perfect equality, along-
side the French business man or Advocate, and sips
his glass of wine. Beer, seldom. And always before
drinking, they touch their glasses and say “Sante.”
The simplicity and charming cameraderie of it all.
No snobbishness in Paris; no irritability, no airs.
Everyone, high or low, is the quintessence of polite-

   
  
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
   
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   

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152 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

ness. It is “Bon Jour, Monsieur” and “Merci, Mon-
sieur”; everywhere you go in Paris. No such good-
fellowship and courtesy anywhere else in the world.
The Paris air, fragrant with courtesy, with good nature.
You are happy in Paris. Paris gets you.

CHAMP DE MARS

A glorious Parked area with Napoleon’s tomb on
one end, the Trocadero on the other end and the great
Eiffel Tower in the center. A beautiful promenade.
Just off the Arc de Triomphe; the Etoile section.

THE PARIS OPERA HOUSE

Every Guide Book and visitor to Paris has told you
of the magnificence of this edifice and the big, impor-
tant part it plays in Parisian life. Principally for
Grand Opera;, and in season, here come all the great
artists. Also used the year ’round for Balls and State
receptions. The Grand Prix Ball held here; and the
Mi careme Balls. Ten or a dozen orchestras, playing
simultaneously; all under the one room; and none of
them clashing. This gives an idea of its immensity.
Dancing on every tier and there are six; and dancing
on the stage, in the foyers, and in the orchestra Pit.
The seats, removed as desired. The Opera House is
the Hub of Paris. Your entire life, in Paris, is cen-
tered about it. You remember the shops, the theaters,
the cafes, the hotels, by their tributary relationship
to the Opera. Every cab driver, bus driver, newsboy
and beggar in Paris, knows how to direct you, whenPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 153

you say “Opera.” And if you cannot say anything
else in French but “Opera” (pronounced—O’-PAY-
RAH) you will never get lost.

PRUNIER’S FOR LUNCH

9 Rue Duphot.

A place famous for sea food. Oysters, clams, lob-
sters, mussels, snails, fish. Every taxi driver knows
“Prunier’s.”

NEW YORK TIMES

Corner Rue de la Paix and Rue Daunou. Half-
way between Harry’s and Henry’s. Here, a great
stunt. The New York Times maintains a Reading
Room in Paris. Big leather lounges and easy chairs
and writing desks. Go any time of day, write let-
ters, and read the latest Times as they come off the
Boats. And ask for “Bailey” here. Bailey is a rare
comrade. He makes your welcome a ringing one, and
his vivid personality and fund of stories is a real at-
traction. Call at the New York Times during your
entire stay in Paris. And some evening when you are
seated. out in front of the Cafe de la Paix—you will
see a tall, well dressed young chap, selling the New
York Times. This is Ike Meltzer, formerly of Harlem,
but now the newspaper Baron of Paris. Ike is a
great chap and a valuable ally. He knows Paris from
end to end—and inside, out. Ike is the Chap you will
want to talk very confidentially to, some time. Watch
out for him. He can tell you much.cA
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154 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

CASINO DE PARIS

The third largest Revue in Paris. Same description
as for the Moulin Rouge and Folies Bergere. This
place, made famous by Dolly Sisters, who, for years,
have starred in its Revues.

DINE AT PHILIPPE’S

Another “Class” Restaurant. About on a par with
Cafe de Paris and Delmonico’s, but not so large or
elaborately decorated.

CHEZ JOSEPHINE BAKER

The little ““Maple Nut Sundae” who came over to

Paris from New York’s Harlem black belt and knocked

them dead—and then made all her colored brothers

| and sisters, millions of them, all over the world, turn
from black to green—when she up and married an
Italian Count, and now is everywhere received with
éclat, as the “(Countess So and So.” She plays in one
or the other of the big French Revues and then goes
to her own Night Club “Chez Josephine Baker,” and
gets still another ovation. And she is an artiste.
Many four-flush, but the “Countess Josephine” does
deliver. One of the smartest ultra Jazz Palaces of
Paris. You will get a gob of a good time here and
Josephine works every second and every muscle to
entertain you. Here also meet the New York elite
when in Paris, Hale Forde, Al. Strassman, Tom “Bridge
Whist” Martin, Richard Willis and Abe and Irma Sun-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 155

shine, those two enormously popular Americans who
are welcomed everywhere with open arms. They all
come here.

GRAND MAGASIN DU LOUVRE

One of the great department stores. Enormous
stocks of everything and at the lowest prices. The
other stores or “‘Magasins,” as they are called, are
Galerie Lafayette, Magasin du Printemps, Grande
Maison de Blanc, Magasin Samaritaine, Bon Marché,
Aux Trois Quartier. At the door of each you get an
interpreter and your shopping is made as easy and
satisfactory as at home. But their systems and cus-
toms will seem strange to you. Clear across the entire
front and sides of each store, merchandise is displayed
for sale on the sidewalks.

LUNCH IN GARDEN OF HOTEL CHATHAM

A surprisingly beautiful setting, right in the center
of the Rue Daunou, and across the street from your
beloved Henry’s. You step from the sidewalk into
a large garden and lunch or dine mid flowers, palms
and fountains. If it be winter time, the scene shifts
to the very kitchen itself, where you walk up to the
Chefs, select just the particular chops, steaks and fowl,
that you wish broiled, and give the order personally.
Another delightful novelty in restaurants. And food,
par excellence.

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156 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

CERCLE HAUSSMANN

The biggest open Gambling House in the world.
But no Roulette Wheel. Not a gyp resort, but a real
Club for gentlemen. Baccarat and Chemin de Fer.
On the Boulevard des Italiens. Three floors. Scores
of tables. Restaurants. Special rooms for Bridge.
You must be a member. Costs you 100 francs. And
your Passport is required. Several hundred at play
at all hours. Men only. And these two games, Bac-
carat and Chemin de Fer, the fairest of all gambling
games, because the odds are even. Lose one day.
Win the next. At one big table, men betting 10,000
francs at each turn of a card. The famous Greek
gamblers among them. Their average daily losings or
winnings as high as $50,000. An American, a former
Grand Opera singer—Joe Ratliff—is said to have
made the largest winnings this season.

If you are a man among men and have a sporting
streak and crave a taste of everything that is classy
and speedy in this world, go play Baccara or Chemin
de Fer at Cercle Haussmann. A banging, big bargain
for the 100 franc membership fee.

VISIT SOME FAMOUS MODISTE

And now the treat of treats for the ladies. In Paris
are created the Feminine Fashions for the world. The
Paris couturiers each year have two big formal open-
ings. Summer and Fall. February and August. And
Buyers from all over the world attend these openings.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 157

But by invitation only. (You can secure an invitation
through the Paris office of your own Gown shop at
home.) Quite a thrill it is to see—

THE BIRTH OF THE STYLES

To have the very first peep at the models, which, i
within a week, will be in the hands of the leading 4
Modistes and Manufacturers of America. To be copied i
and sold by the hundreds. These are the originals. i
You sit with the other privileged guests in a circle,
about this rambling mirror-walled and tapestry-hung
salon. Among all these buyers today is the beautiful
Elizabeth Cochran of Dallas, Texas. She is with Fran-
cine Larrimore. Popular New York actress. They
take it all in, wide-eyed. They are buying many of
these wondrous models for themselves, and stealing a
march on all of their friends. And there is the famed
Mae Weir, Modiste de luxe to the Swagger ones of
New York. And Fortuna Morgan and Lee Melnick
of New York City, who also import enormously. And
many other notables are here. The models, girls all of
a size, strut and pose before you, in dazzling array.
You see some really marvelous creations, and some
decidedly inane ones. But the great, the supreme
fashion arbiters of Paris, say that these are the models
the world is to wear, and that settles it. See the
parade of the Mannequins. One hour, two hours. Un-
ceasingly. And at the finish, the buyers gather about
the Head woman of the establishment and make a
future appointment to come back and inspect close-up,Pa

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158 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

the particular garments in which they are interested.
These models sell to your modiste at an average of
$165 a garment. With duty, delivered in New
York, over $200. But Adenoid Bros. and Greenberg
and Slovinsky can chop the copies out with sharp ma-
chine knives, a hundred at a time, and sell them for
one-tenth the model cost. The Paris creator, in order
that no house may have an advantage over another,
sets a fixed date for releasing, and no garment is
shipped before that date. A striking peculiarity of
this fashion creating, is that a house may, one season,
build up a marvelous reputation on its models and
become the rage. But the following season, it may
lose the designer responsible for these creations,
to some other house, and that house will take its vogue
away from it. Sunday go to the Races. Every
. modiste of prominence sends his or her models to
Longchamps and to Auteuil. They strut up and down
before the great Grandstands, and the gowns most
admired become the Season’s rage. The following are
the important modistes of Paris who hold gala open-
ings each February and August:

Chanel, Patou, Lanvin, Vionnet, Poiret, Callot
Soeurs, Lelong, Worth, Paquin, Premet, Jenny, Dre-
coll, Martial & Armand, Renee, Molyneux, Bernard
and Beer.

THROUGH THE WORKING MEN’S DISTRICT

Best way to go, is on foot. Next best way, is ina
Bus. Walk or ride through miles of sidewalk shopsPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 159

and sidewalk tables. Everything from cake to pianos
is sold on the sidewalks. The life and the bustle along
the way is fascinating and everyone, good natured and
gay. An extremely interesting adventure. See the
real Parisian lower classes at work and at play.

THE CINTRA BAR

Drop in for a call. Or call in for a drop. One of
the large, important and extremely novel bars. Two
floors. Everyone sits on low stools and uses the bar-
rels for tables. Meet the best here, both American and
French. The drink de resistance is Port. Walls
covered with barrels, each holding Port of a different
vintage and price. Make your choice, and the Garcon
draws it for you, right out of the spigot, fragrant,
beady and smackin’ good. And nibble with it deviled
anchovy and cheese sandwiches. A great mid-day
meeting place. Over there, the glorious Mrs. Tom
Mix. In that corner, Edna Purviance, movie luminary,
and Mat Beecher, Painter, Boulevardier, Fashion
Plate extraordinary, and Frederick G. Lewis, greatest
American Shakespearian actor, and Florence Fair,
most beautiful woman in Paris; and Harry Talmadge,
that big, popular, “Party” Man and Hill and Mildred
Joseph. They are all here. The Cintra, Rue Ed-
ward VII.

PARIS EDITION—-NEW YORK HERALD
A busy, brimming little American newspaper pub-
lished in Paris every morning. All the latest des-
patches from America. You will learn to lean on it

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160 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

while in Paris. Buy it at any corner Kiosk (news-
stand). Also the Chicago Tribune and Paris Times
are published here daily. (Meet Hank Wales, Direc-
tor General of the former. No relation to the Prince
of Wales but just as topping a chap.)

THAT MARVELOUS RESTAURANT—CHATEAU MADRID

The show place of Paris. A very ultra, huge and
charmingly laid out dining place. In the glorious Bois
de Boulogne. Everyone “in the swim” goes to Chateau
Madrid. Prices high but atmosphere gorgeous. Col-
ored lanterns strung among the trees. A soothing or-
chestra. Gowns, jewels; flash, dazzle, “living” de luxe.
A scintillant, and long to be remembered evening awaits
you here. This, perhaps, the very smartest of all the
smart restaurants of the world. Entertaining this
evening is Earl Benham and his charming young wife;
and in another party Ed. Wynn, Raymond Hitchcock,
Eddie Delling and Judge Arthur W. Sager, Eddie and
the Judge, the most ‘invited’ men in Paris. They
know every one worth knowing and go everywhere
worth going. And Eddie has a new Rolls-Royce.
Painted purple and white. (Just made another mil-
lion. )

LA TROIKA

This, a Russian after-midnight place. In the Rue
Fontaine. The ‘42nd Street” of Montmartre. An
artistic, original, intimate atmosphere. The lights are
soft; the entertainment, delightful. The artists all inPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 161

real Russian Costume and they sit among the guests
and arise one by one, and sing or play, as the spirit
moves them. The food good, the dance orchestra,
excellent, and soft lights to make it chummy. Among
the best of the Russian places; and Russian music is
enchanting. See here the celebrated Manny Strauss,
the silent, modest figure who rules half of Wall Street,
James Marshall and Jack Sheehan of musical comedy.
Dr. J. N. Garfunkle, Gitz Rice, Great Composer and
Vaudeville Artist. And with him, his gorgeous wife.
And Bill and Gitzine. A veritable convention of Rices.
With them, also, the Dazzling, Mrs. Ralph Whitehead.

THE OLD GATES OF PARIS

His Majesty, King Louis XIV, to himself, one day,
said, looking into the Royal mirror and patting himself
on the Royal back, ‘Louis, old thing, why not erect
some more monuments to yourself.” And the answer
coming quickly back, ‘Yes, do,’ he did.

Behold two more of them. The marvelous old Gates
—Porte Saint Denis and Porte Saint Martin. A great
sport was Louis XIV. (That trick table in his Palace
at Versailles where he pressed a button and the floor
opened up and the table went down; to come back
laden with the Feast, that Louis and his sweetie might
dine and sup, en negligee. Unseen by servants.) See
the old gates, just as erected by Louis XIV himself,
for himself and in honor of himself. A touch of the
old world that is indeed charming. See them at the
end of the Grand Boulevards, surrounded by Cafe

    
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   

 

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162 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

tables and throngs of merry makers. The real Paris,
down here. Stroll through the quaint, narrow, cen-
turies-old streets. Glorious. Enchanting. Nothing
quite so lovely.

PASSAGE JOUFFROY

The cutest, longest and bustling-est Arcade you ever
saw. Just off the Boulevard de Montmartre. Lined
with smart shops, a distance of three or four blocks
through. And across the street, another Arcade, Pas-
sages des Panoramas. Stroll through both of these
Arcades. You will feel like a “New World Discov-
erer,” because no one will ever tell you about them.
You will not meet anyone who has ever seen them. A
charming promenade.

LA TOUR D’ARGENT

15 Quai de la Tournelle.

A good stunt here. A famed restaurant for Duck.
For the way the duck is served. You enter and are
escorted to a long table full of dressed ducks. You
select the one you want; a nice, kind faced, roly-poly
one, and you are given its number. Then take your
seat at table, and there begins a strange ceremony.
The duck appears, but par-boiled, only. To be cer-
tain that you are its particular Daddy, the number in
the Duck’s bill and the number in your hand must
correspond. Next the Garcon takes His Royal Duck-
lets and cuts off the breast, legs and wings. The
carcass is put in a novel looking machine and pressedPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 163

until all the juice is crushed out of it. This juice
makes the gravy. Next the breast, wings and legs
are put in a chafing dish and basted with the juice.
Then it is served to you with red crawfish. And
Little Brother and Little Sister, that am some Duck-y.
Among other notables, see here Mrs. Sarah Morse
Huber, Kentucky’s most celebrated hostess.

GO SHOPPING

A big subject, this. You have been told the leading
Department stores. The specialty shops you will see
all about you as you promenade. One way to shop,
if many presents or garments to buy, is with a Com-
missionnaire. The Commissionnaire is a Professional
shopper. He can really save you money. If you want
to buy gowns, he gives you a card to a Gown House
and you buy “Wholesale.” Likewise with hats, bags,
dolls and jewelry. The Merchant pays him his com-
mission. Such a Commissionnaire is Irving Marks, 12
Rue d’Aguesseau. A good gown shop is Honore’s, 164
Rue de Faubourg Saint Honore. A good man’s tailor
is Crouzevialle, 18 Rue de la Chaussee d’Antin. And if
you want a crackerjack barber, who can speak English
and who will do as you tell him, and not want to run
a lawn mower over your head, and make you look like
a Billiard ball, go find “Jack” at Victor and Fernand’s,
3 Rue Edward VII. And if you want a good laundry,
drop a note to Blanchisserie, 38 Rue Laborde. They
will call and deliver and charge you one-third the
prices at your Hotel. And if you want your clothes

 

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164 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

cleaned or pressed, there is the New York Pressing
Company, Rue du 29 Juillet. Telephone Louvre 57-06.
And you know where to buy your liquor—so this will
be about all on “Shopping.”

THE SCRIBE BAR

Right on the corner that you will always be passing.
Rue Scribe and Boulevard des Capucines. Easy to get
into but not easy to get out of. Meet here Earl Leslie,
Prince of the Paris Music Halls, premier Impresario
and all ’round most successful, most popular and “big-
gest” American in Paris. Leslie creates, designs,
builds, finances, writes, musicalizes, hires, and directs
his own shows, and acts in them. In between times, he
holds Court in this Scribe Bar. His story is interest-
ing. He landed in Paris, in 1919, a wide-eyed, gangling
youth; couldn’t speak a word of French, and so green,
he thought Buttermilk came from Butterflies. Today,
nine-tenths of the Americans who meet him, think he
is a Frenchman. He “owns” the Boulevards, and a
new baby is named after him every hour. You could
interrupt a Tribunal of the French Senate, if you told
them Earl Leslie sent you. See Leslie at his theatre
and meet him in the Scribe Bar.

Meet here, also, Monsieur Alfred Montero, Direc-
teur of the Hotel Scribe, in which this toppy Bar is
located. A distinguished Parisian, and the last word
in sartorial elegance. The Scribe Bar. Don’t over-
look it.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 165

THE PALACE MUSIC HALL

Not so big and flashy as the Moulin Rouge, Casino
de Paris and Folies Bergeres, but one of the shows that
everyone sees.

DINE AT MAISONNETTE DES COMEDIENS RUSSES

Rue Vivienne. Russian, Gypsy and French music
and entertainment. Bohemianism, rampant. Some
real atmosphere. The dish of the House, Pancakes
Blini. Among the Guests, this evening, Sanford
Brown, the leading legal luminary of Cincinnati.
At his table the distinguished Andreas Burckhardt,
one of those really high class Americans whom Paris
likes to welcome.

PALERMO

6 Rue Fontaine. A celebrated Argentine orchestra.
Also the colored ‘“Crackerjacks.” Enough to keep
your feet busy. And beautiful champagne and a dash-
ing coquette to keep you occupied otherwise. This,
the place formerly operated by Jed Kiley, where the
Prince of Wales, came three nights straight running.
Many are the stories told. On the Prince’s first visit,
the waiters went on strike. Kiley called for volun-
teers; and society men and women present took the
striking waiters’ places. Mrs. Freddy Havemeyer
cooked ham and eggs for the Prince. Rodman Wana-
maker, with a napkin over one arm, served him. Mrs.
Charlie Munn acted as cloakroom girl. Princess Pigna-
telli made biscuits, and the Prince himself, carried his

 

meeriemerepeeneen erratn Curries166 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

own drink from the bar to the table, and stayed for
hours.

Another time, Kiley, hearing that the Prince was
coming, playfully announced, that, for that evening
only, and at stupendous expense, he had procured a
marvelous new attraction—namely, the Prince of
Wales. Unknown to Kiley, Wales had already arrived
and had heard the speech. Wales was game. He
dressed up in a Russian costume and did a dance with
Kiley. Another time, the Prince lost his coat check.
Kiley playfully told him, he would not let him take out
a coat unless he could prove it was his. The Prince
replied that he would take the very worst one in the
room. He did—and it was his own coat. An old rain-
coat that he had kept since the war.

Another time Kiley bet Reginald Vanderbilt that
he could get his Russian Wolf hound into a certain
place, where dogs were forbidden. Just then the
Prince of Wales, also in the party, started inside, and
Kiley, quick as a flash, pressed the leash into the
Prince’s hand—saying “Here, Prince, hold my dog, for
a moment.” And the Prince did, walking in, the dog
behind him. Kiley won the bet.

Find Jed Kiley, now, the Proprietor of the College
Inn, 28 Rue Vavin. A cafe that is a novelty. On the
window, the picture of an old-time schooner of Lager
Beer, and such reminiscent signs as ‘“‘Cans filled from
the back door only,” “The best free lunch in Paris,”
etc. Kiley’s partner is Jimmy Cossitt, erstwhile star
of the Gridiron at Ann Arbor.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 167

GO TO THE RACES ON SUNDAY

Called “Les Course.” Five principal tracks; Long-
champs, Auteuil, Saint Cloud, Maison Lafitte and
Chantilly. Dress up for the Races as you would for a
wedding. Tail coat, white spats, wing collar, and
gray top hat. The Grand Stands spraddle out and look
like the World’s Fair. The turf is sod.

A tip. On Sunday, pay no attention to the Form,
bet on the Rothschild horses. They win every Sunday.
Who knows or cares why. To get out to the Tracks,
take acab. Or, the real way to go, is to hire a 7 pas-
senger Rolls-Royce—a Hispano-Suiza or a Renault,
with a liveried chauffeur. You can swell up and make
believe it is your own car. Even go so far as to tell
people it is, particularly the girl you take with you.
Pick up one of these cars on Sunday, or any day, along-
side the Opera house. Including tip, the whole after-
noon only sets you back about $15. And that Lord-
like, cock-o’-the-walk feeling as you nestle down among
the “ostrich-plume”-stuffed cushions—and ze Bebe by
your side, starts fighting to hold your hand—is worth
a flock of ‘‘fifteens.” And here is another stunt. You
can hire a Tally-ho. Four beautiful, high-stepping
horses. Grooms in full livery and a trumpeter for the
rear seat. Make up a party of 12, and the men in
the party split the bill. (The lad talking to you now
did that stunt once and Mrs. Tom Mix drove the 4
horses; and wow—was that a marvelous party? Get
particulars from Cliff Thompson.) Anyhow—go to

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the races. If you have to go on a bicycle, or roller-
skate out and back. Racing season in Paris is April
to November. The Grand Prix, in June. And wear
the glad-est glad raiment you have. A Sunday at the
Race Track is the dressiest occasion in Paris. As an
example of “what well dressed Race-Goers should
wear,” observe Walter Catlett and Jimmy Gleason and
Lucile Webster or ‘“‘Reccie” Rector and John Reidic.
And there is also Dennis F. McSweeney, the in-
separable companion of John McCormack, who is over
here now to escort “His Honor” Jimmie Walker
through Ireland. Today they have it all on. They
are on “Parade.”

LUNCH AT LES CASCADES

A glorious restaurant, right in the middle of the
Bois de Boulogne, and resting against the beautiful
natural waterfall, from which it gets its name.
Luncheon under gay-colored umbrellas, on the ter-
race. A setting, enchanting. Then go to the Races.
“Tust around the corner.” (Here to-day, is the world’s
most Popular Hotel owner, Johnnie Horgan. He is
entertaining James P. Orr and R. K. Le Blond. All
of Cincinnati.)

DINNER DANCE AT THE RITZ

Sunday night, go dine and dance at the Ritz. You
have been told of the smartness of the Ritz and the
people who go there. Engage your table in advance.
Then look, next morning, in The Herald. You mayPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 169

see your name. If you seek something really swagger
to do, on Sunday evening, this is it. And the gowns
and jewels, the most ultra, in Paris. ‘These are the
Americans who are not tourists. The type you are
proud to claim.

It is here you see the spectacularly illustrious of
Paris. Leaders of Fashion and Society. On both sides
of the Atlantic. Over there, the ever-colorful Berry
Wall, Pet of New York’s “400” and Style-Dazzler of
the Early ’90’s. And by a freak coincidence, quite
near him, sits his successor, the radiant youth who
wears the Fashion Crown today. His name, William
Gaxton; immaculate, exquisite, distingue; his raiment
the last whisper of smartness. Gaxton wears clothes
as no man can wear them. With him, his Chief Sate-
lite, Victor E. Murray, of Cincinnati. And at another
table, Princess Galitzine, formerly Aime Crocker
Gouraud, she of the glorious past, who has a million
friends and the most gorgeous house in Paris. And
with her, Burton Holmes, famous Artist-Lecturer; and
Arthur Hurley, foremost stage director, with Irene
Homer and Martin Burton, New York’s latest sensa-
tions in “Playing the Game.” And Roberta Brazelle,
the stunning former sister-in-law of Peggy Hopkins
Joyce, and now undisputed Queen of Paris’ American
Colony. And there are the fashionable and important
Maurice Livingstons. And the “magnificent” Alfred
E. Aarons, Imperial Potentate of New York’s Theater-
dom. Entertaining this evening: Oscar Shaw, Broad-
way Matinee Idol; James Murray Allison, newspaper

 

ad a th aaa BP HS Ee
at Se area eatin ete edt170 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

celebrity, and Harry C. Walker, ‘““Mode-Maker of
Madison Ave.”

These and a score more, other celebrities, you will
dine among, on these gala “Sunday Nights” at the
Hotel Ritz.

HOW TO “SHOW OFF” WHEN ORDERING WINE

And this is one of the finest of the cultural arts;
selecting just the proper wine at just the proper mo-
ment. Few know how to do it. But if you do, the
French Maitre d’Hotel will open his eyes with respect
and bend a bit lower. It is a simple study, yet few
have taken the trouble to learn it. But a gentleman
is a gentleman. And it is the badge of a Gentleman
to know the Etiquette of Wines. To the Frenchman,
it seems the grossest ignorance and crudity not to
know. Wine that delights the eye with its jeweled
colors, the nose with its exquisite bouquet, the palate
with its delicate savors. And in Paris, drink the most
exquisite wines of the World.

When the Garcon brings you the wine list, push it
aside, or lay it down on the table unopened. Knit
your brows a bit, roll your tongue in your cheek to sug-
gest a blase “at Homeness,” rub your chin and say,
“Let me see. With the Hors d’oeuvres, you may bring
me a Vermouth, With the Oysters, I should like a
good Graves (Grov) or a Chablis; with the soup, you
may select for me, a dry Sherry; when you serve the
Fish, let it be a Sauterne; and with my roast, IPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 171

strongly prefer a Burgundy, but if you have an espe-
cially select Claret, you may bring that.

“The Partridge, Garcon, you may serve with that a
choice Champagne; say, a bottle of Pol Roger of your
best vintage. And I shall top off my cafe noir with a
pony of Martel.”

And so it is, the exact kind of wine to order with
each course. But this applies only to formal dinners.
For the ordinary dinner of just you and the Girl
Friend, a bottle of “Fizz” (Champagne) may be
served throughout; preceded by one or a flock of cock-
tails before dining, and followed by Benedictine,
Chartreuse, Kummel, Curacoa or a bevy of any of the
popular liqueurs at the finish.

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WINE

The old saying, “Wine improves with age.” A Port
or Sherry will mellow beautifully for 80 or 90 years
or more. A good Burgundy is marvelous at 40 and
a Claret at 50. Champagne is at its best at 15 to 20
years.

Claret. Should be drunk at the temperature of a
comfortably warm room. 65° to 70° Fahr. The best
Clarets bear the mark of the Commune from which
they come. Medoc, St. Emilion, Margaux and St.
Julien. Their Brand names will be of the different
makers or “Chateaux” within each Commune. For ex-
ample, you will see on the “Wine List,” such names
as Pontet-Canet, Dauzac, Cantemerle. All are good.
The general character of a fine Claret is a delicacy,172 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

lightness, softness and elegance of taste and bouquet.
Old Clarets will throw a deposit and lighten in color.

Graves. These wines have body, beautiful color,
finesse, and pronounced bouquet. The best ones are
Chateau, Haut-Biron, Bon Air, de Chavalier, Cam-
ponac.

Sauternes. Sauternes are of golden color; soft,
sweet and highly perfumed. They are ideal light
wines, warming and comforting without being heady
or bilious. The most famous of these is Chateau
Yquem (the Brand made famous in America by Roy
Calvin Graham, whose cellar of Chateau Yquems in
New York City, was said to be the greatest private
stock in the world; he having collected it through the
years and paid fabulous premiums for the rarest
vintages). Other good Sauternes are La Tour Blanche,
Coutet, Climens, Guiraud.

Burgundies. Fuller in body and of greater alco-
holic strength. “The King of Wines,” say Connois-
seurs. The most fragrant of all red wines. A fine,
clear, dark red color. And a Burgundy delivers to
the palate all the promises held out by its fine radiance
and charming bouquet. Burgundy is never sugary or
spirity, but soft, velvety and delicate to the last drop.
It leaves on the palate a most pleasing “‘Au Revoir,”
never a watery or fiery taste. The best Burgundies
are Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Romanee-Conti,
Nuits St. Georgees.

Champagnes. The best Champagnes come from
Rheims, Epernay and Chalons. A peculiarity ofPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 173

Champagnes is that they are not alone of the grapes
of a certain Chateau or Season; but are blended, the
old with the new, by the bottlers, who strive to main-
tain a certain standard of taste for which they have
established a reputation. The more famous brands
are Pol Roger, Heidsieck, Cliquot, Pommery, Roederer,
Ruinart, Moet and Chandon, Montebello. If you want
a Dry Champagne, say “Sec” after you give the name
to the waiter. (‘‘Sec’”? means Dry.) A Champagne
not “Sec” is sweet, and few people like a sweet cham-
pagne. The “Sec’’ costs more.

BE “FUSSY” ABOUT THE GLASS IN WHICH YOUR
WINE IS SERVED

If you want to really throw out your chest, swank
all over the place and enormously impress the waiter,
instruct him particularly as to the type of glass to serve
with your wines. This stuns him. He has “never met
such an absolutely gorgeous Gentleman as this be-
fore.” One who is not only an eminent connoisseur
of wine, but who must likewise turn the Dining Salon
upside down to search out for him just a certain shape
and texture of glass. By Jove, that is quite Bon Ton
(“Putting on the Dog”). But learn this little bit of
Booshwah, it will get you the spot light and when you
can make an august, pompous French waiter sit up
and take notice, you have accomplished something.

For Champagne, push aside the ordinary large
brimmed, saucer-shaped glass, because you know that
this type of glass is all wrong. It lets off the Carbonic

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    

 

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acid gas in the wine (the Fizz) too quickly and it goes
flat. Insist, instead, upon a Tulip-shaped glass, with
a deep star cut at the bottom of the bowl. This sets
up a steady stream of bubbles which makes the wine
look its best, while keeping it lively longer than the
shallow bowled glass.

The shape of the ideal glass for Clarets, Burgundies
and White Wines, that gives the color its best showing,
is the same shape as the Champagne glass only smaller
but the ‘‘deep star cut” at the bottom is not so essen-
tial. The curve of the tip of this glass, however, must
be generous enough to concentrate the bouquet.

For the drinking of Port. Port seems to show its
glorious ruby color and to give out a more exquisite
bouquet from old cut glass. And the cutting should
be of a certain depth and design to make the wine
sparkle.

For Sherry, the glass must be thin and tall, and only
half filled. Abuse the waiter and scream for the Man-
ager of the Hotel, if the waiter stupidly attempts to
fill the glass beyond a certain point.

For Burgundy, the glass should be large, at least
one-third of a pint capacity, to give the bouquet full
play and never filled to the top. The glass should be
narrower at the top. It must also be warmed by the
hand, or even warmed before a fire. Nothing is so
important to get at the full Savor of this “King of
Wines” as to have the glass at just the precise tem-
perature.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 175

THE CEREMONY OF DRINKING WINE

(And no one knows this but you. Memorize it.
Swank with it everywhere you go.)

Begin by tilting the glass gently, so that your eye
may enjoy the varying beauty of its color, as its depth
above the glass changes. Then with the glass steady,
sigh three times and inhale the bouquet of the wine,
through the nose, the while rolling the eyes ecstatically.
The appreciative powers of the sense of smell will
likewise be augmented by a mental picture of grapes,
plump and luscious, growing in the vineyard. ‘The
stem of the glass should be held between the thumb
and the first finger and a rotary movement of grad-
ually increasing speed, given to the beverage. This
rotary movement assists the vaporization of all the
volatile principles of the wine and brings a larger sur-
face of it, in contact with the ozone. The wine will
now offer a complete scale of perfumes, varying in
delicacy, subtlety and power. The warmth of the
hand will now have been employed until the perfect
temperature has been reached. Now the moment of
moments has arrived when the wine will come to the
palate, which is already pleasantly prepared by all
that has gone before. You should now look out the
window and search for a bird, hoping to catch it, itself,
in the very act of drinking. For you will now emulate
the bird. You will take your wine in little sips, to be
rolled meditatively and reverently ’round the tongue,
for each part of the tongue has its own special sensi-Pert, Tore
422334

176 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

bility. Its taste Buds. But do not swallow yet. Be-
fore swallowing, purse your lips as you would in
saying “O” and draw in a little air to mingle with the
wine, now the same temperature as the mouth. This
action will be recorded by a new series of perfumes.
Now sip and sigh. Sip and sigh, sip and sigh.

Try this upon the very next occasion if you are
drinking wine. Also memorize it and be most par-
ticular to recite it to the Head waiter. Say to him,
“Do you know, my good man, how wine should be
drunk?” He will only stare at you. Then let him
have it. It will go all the better with him, if the
Orchestra happens, at the moment, to be playing
‘Hearts and Flowers.”

WHICH VINTAGE TO ORDER AND WHICH NOT TO ORDER

(Wine has its good and bad years, dependent upon
the Grape harvest.) This is your guide.

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
 

  
  
 
  
  
   
   

Year Claret Burgundy Champagne
1887 Good Good Very good
1888 Good Good Poor

1889 Good Good Very good
1890 Good Good Fair

1891 Good Good Poor

1892 Indifferent Very good Very good
1893 Very good Very good Very good
1894 Poor Good Fair

1895 Fair Very good Fair

1896 Very good Very good Very good
1897 Good Fair Very good
1808 Good Good GoodYear

1899
1900
IQOI
1902
1903
1904
1905
1906
1907
1908
1909
I9IO
IQII
IQI2
1913
IQ14
IQI5
1916
IQI7
1918
IQIQ
1920
1921
1922
1923

Claret

Very good
Good
Poor
Poor
Poor
Good
Good
Fair
Good
Bad
Fair
Good
Bad
Fair
Good
Good
Fair
Bad
Good
Very good
Fair
Good
Fair
Fair

Good

Burgundy

Very good
Fair

Poor

Fair

Fair

Very good
Fair

Good

Bad

Fair

Fair

Good

Fair

Good
Good
Good

Fair

Bad

Fair

Good
Good

Fair

Bad

Good

Very good

NOTE

      
 
  
  
  
 
  
  
  
   
  
 
   
  
 
  
  
  
 
  
   
  
  
   
 
 
 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 177

Champagne

Very good
Very good
Fair

Poor

Poor

Very good
Bad

Fair

Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good

Fair

Good

Fair

Fair

Good
Very good
Very good
Good
Fair

Very good
Good

Do not take the foregoing “table” too seriously. All
5 -

wine in Paris is good wine.

This chart is merely to

memorize in the event that you are out with a Goddess
you want to especially impress with your great inti-

macy with the highest scale of living. In other words,

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if you want to be Le Grande “‘corner-sewer” and show
off before the waiter when he suggests a bottle of
Pommery of the vintage of 1903—just swell up—
throw out your chest and say, “Oh no—that was a bad
year for Champagne. Let me see (rub your chin
now and look like Pres. Coolidge trying to decide
whether or not to cut the Income Tax)—bring me a
bottle of Pol Roger 1904. That was an especially good
year for Roger.” You get the idea? Try it. Because
in this merry old world, you can get away with any-
thing if you look the part and can shoot the bluff.

LUNCH AT AU CANETON

Will Rogers did, and immediately afterward, rushed
over and kissed Mary Garden. (What they dropped
in his soup, is not known.) But this is a rare Russian
place, that serves many dishes, novel and delicious.

THE AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMEE

The thoroughfare over which Napoleon marched his
troops, triumphant, into Paris. And in commemora-
tion of which, the Arc de Triomphe was erected at the
other end. One of the most interesting Avenues in
Paris. Luna Park is here, the Coney Island of Paris.
And the Bois de Boulogne runs along one side. A
great avenue to promenade on Sunday morning. To
see Types and to sit and sip French coffee, at a side-
walk table.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 179

THE HAMMAM TURKISH BATHS

What a hoity-toity Turkish bath this one is. Atmos-
phere that is real Turkish. Every modern device and
luxury. A high domed ceiling entirely of Turkish
stained glass; the best massage you ever had; a swim
in a pool; a nap on a Harem-ish couch; your clothes
pressed; your hair cut; your lunch; a cocktail; and
out you step, fit as a fiddle and fairly screaming to
yourself: “Where is that Gene Tunney. Bring him
on.” 18 Rue des Mathurins. One block from the
American Express Co.

ARMENONVILLE

In the Bois de Boulogne. And what a place. For
dinner. And a Dance. And a Romance. A more
marvelous, fairy-like setting, impossible to imagine.
You dine on a Terrace, skirting a lake. Swans swim
about and duck their heads and bring up lilies; col-
ored lanterns dance scintillating shadows on the water.
Soft music. Glorious women. Beautiful food. Surely,
this place was conceived by the Angels. Without a
doubt, the most spectacular and exquisitely laid out
Restaurant in Paris. And on a beautiful, balmy sum-
mer’s night—ah! But don’t waste it on a Dame you
are not mad about. And some day persuade George
Olsen to come over here and bring his marvelous or-
chestra. This, the place decreed by the Gods, for
Olsen.

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And for Madeline Cameron to sing and dance, as
only she can.

THE KASBECK

Off Boulevard Clichy. Another Russian place.
Some think it the best. A collection of beautiful old
silver, said to have been rescued from the Palace of
the Czar. Some stunts here. The lights go out and
surprise lights shine up through the tables. Excellent
singers. Very intimate program and a world of
atmosphere.

THE CASSANOVA

In the heart of Montmartre. For dinner. And
after midnight. Beautiful tapestries, and among the
best entertainers in Paris. Perhaps the most refined
of the Russian places.

And here, we meet that big international “Divorce”
man, Senor del Toro. When Senor del Toro is not
resting from his arduous labors in Paris, he can be
found at the Hotel Belmont, New York. The Senor is
known as “The Father of the Mexican Divorce Laws.”
We tease the Senor a bit and ask him the question,
“Why go to Mexico when you can get a perfectly good
little Divorce right here in Paris?” ‘‘Mexico is nearer
than Paris,” quickly replies the Senor. ‘Merely stop
off two days on your trip to California, at Nogales, a
city rich in diversions, scenic beauty and things quaint
and historic; see a bull fight, loll in the cabarets; sip
the potent Tequila with bewitching Senoritas. Or

+PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 181

take fascinating drives through the romantic country-
side of “Old Spain.” In those two days you file the
necessary petition, and journey on to Los Angeles.
Within 60 days your Divorce Plea will have passed
through the august Courts of Mexico and a decree
mailed to me, at the Hotel Belmont, New York City.
And, furthermore, the husband can divorce the wife
without her consent and vice versa, merely by the serv-
ing of a paper upon the person from whom the divorce
is sought and that divorce is valid in every nation in
the world,” etc., etc.

And having delivered himself, the Senor passes on;
leaving you with some more food for thought. When
you want a Divorce, Senor del Toro will be the man
you will, no doubt, consult. (But perish such thought.)

THE JOCKEY

A famous stunt restaurant and cabaret. Go at 11
o’clock. See famous painters and the real Bon Vi-
vants of Paris. An indescribable atmosphere. A
sign, reading: “The only client we ever lost, died.”
Low, cracked ceilings and the tattered walls covered
with posters. Cartoons painted with shoe polish.

CECIL BAR

One of the best known Bars in Paris. Rue Cau-
martin. Off the Boulevard Madeleine. More com-
monly called “Jack Bushby’s bar.” A good crowd here
and Jack Bushby, himself. You will want to know182 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Jack. He is a great friend of your great friend, Joe

Zelli.
THE GRAND VENEUR

6 Rue Demours. One of the very popular and pic-
turesque French places. A great long rambling Hall
of a room, with benches along the wall, red plaid
tablecloths and a big open fireplace in the center.
Food that is food. And good company. You may
meet those two sweethearts, the Brayton Witherells,
here.

GOLF

There are many Golf Clubs about Paris. You can
make a satisfactory arrangement by merely paying
the Green fee. Fontainebleau. Two hours’ motor
ride. 40 francs Green fee. Saint Cloud. On the edge
of Paris. Most beautiful Course and most accessible.
Green fee, 100 francs. Go by Taxi. The Caddies are
none too energetic and speak not a syllable of English.
You pay them only 5 francs (2o0c.) for the 18 holes.

HORSEBACK

The finest bridle paths in the world. Winding in
and out of the beautiful Bois de Boulogne. Easy to
arrange for a horse. Go to Mons Olive’s Academy.
7 Rue Thiery. Near the Bois. $1.50 an hour. And
splendid horses. All society goes here, in the morn-
ing about ro o’clock. And after your canter, the
Cafe Dauphin for cocktails. A dandy stunt. Ex-
tremely colorful. The Loving Cup, for the most expertPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 183

and popular Horsewoman, was, this season, captured
by Mrs. Joe Ratliff, of New York City.

THE CINEMAS
(The movies)

In Paris you see all the big feature movies they have
in New York—only, a year old and all American-made
Pictures. The only Houses that have the “titles” in
English, so that you can understand them, are on the
Boulevard de la Madeleine and Boulevard des Capu-
cines. But who the deuce wants to go to a “movie” in
Paris?

PLACE DU TERTRE

The oldest, quaintest and absolutely the most thrill-
ing part of Paris. This, the “Way back-yonder” time
of the Louis’s. Here is the old Montmartre. See the
same old houses and shops just as they stood 400 years
ago. Here, a fascinating colony of Painters and odd
restaurants. A big open square, where you dine on
red checkered cloths, under gay umbrellas; and at
night, kerosene lamps twinkle on every table. The en-
tertainment, during dinner, is strange and enchanting.
A long-haired artist, in broad hat and flowing tie,
sketches your picture; a violinist comes to your table
and plays you a Beethoven Sonata; a Grand Opera(?)
tenor sings Figaro; an old actor declaims a tragedy;
a Half Wit slobbers a comic recitation; and flower
women and beggars call unceasingly. You see real
Paris here. Across from you, a solid phalanx of little

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

squat, two-story buildings, just as you have seen them
pictured in the ancient story books; and in each little
house, a charming restaurant. One, the late King Ed-
ward patronized, when Prince of Wales; and the story
goes that the little old lady who today cooks your
dinner was once one of his favorites. You visit her
and order in advance. Tell her whether you want
chicken, steak or chop. She lights the stove and pre-
pares the dinner before your eyes, and you eat it out in
her tiny back yard, in the moonlight. Don’t take any
but your “very Dearest” here. Another romantic spot
that should not be wasted. One of your finest evenings
in Paris. Call a small boy now and say to him, “Take
me to the

 

184

LAPIN AGILE”

He will lead you through the tiny crooked street,
past the little tumble-down curiosity shops and down
a hill. You look about and the charm of it all, just
takes right hold of you. You love it. Now you come
to an old house, the oldest, oddest, rickety-est, little
old house you ever saw. A low red light shines through
the dirty window pane. You wonder. “What is this
place?” The home of a beggar, perhaps. But no—a
surprise awaits you. You enter and find a large center
room filled with laughing, chanting, happy people. An
old man is here, with a long white beard and a red
Santa Claus cap. He is singing to them. It is wonder-
ful. You drop on an old bench at an old table; a
Saucy girl brings you a glass of brandied cherries; thePARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 185

old man stops; the company applauds gleefully; a
woman comes in and recites; a guitarist twangs; a
harpist strums; another sings jolly old songs in which
everyone joins—all in French; and your mouth flies
open, and you listen and look on in amazement that
anything could be so absolutely and utterly naive,
charming and lovely. They call this place “The Lapin
Agile” (The Jumping Rabbit). But it is you who
jump—for joy. If you have any of the Poet in you, it
all comes out here. The charge for the drink is noth-
ing. If you wish to leave 5 francs as you pass out—
“Merci, Monsieur.”
The Lapin Agile. Don’t forget it.

BOULEVARD DE CLICHY

The “Broadway of Montmartre.” Hundreds of
cafes. A mile or more of sidewalk tables. Orchestras
playing side by side. You sit down and for an hour
watch the seething life about you. An army of “street
girls” file by. Apaches, with colored silk mufflers about
their necks. Taxicabs honk; the Moulin Rouge
pours out its throngs; the orchestrions of the Merry-
go-rounds. This is getting down flat against the real
Paris life. And what a kick it gives you. What do
Tourists know about Paris? You have the right idea.
You come down and mingle with the people. You walk
about and know the streets and the places and the
stunts and the customs. It is your Paris. These
People, your friends. You are at Home. It is mar-
velous.Werye!; |r -tsttapatrad es Ci aie est rort tottocetetrartelrtces tTeSoaterctreperstattsta tetstss cocsperstavetrates metetesrener yettctest rete’ oereyeror= = a
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186 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

FRED PAYNE’S BAR
(The Artists’ Gril—Haven of One Cliff Thompson)

14 Rue Pigalle. Now for some excitement. You
don’t know it now, but this place is going to play a big
important part in your life in Paris. The Plot. Once
upon a time, not so long ago, a handsome play-actor
on Broadway, by the name of Cliff Thompson, treated
himself to a big yawn, and said: “I believe Ill take a
run over to Paris.” He did. But when he arrived in
Paris, he got so dizzy, he never went back. Bought a
half interest in a Cafe, known as Fred Payne’s. His
Grease paints, he chucked out the window and a Broad-
way actor ceased to be a Broadway actor. The news
got around. Every actor who now comes to Paris
from New York or London makes a bee-line to the
doormat of Cliff Thompson. Tonight we see here 4
sterling American actors, Frank Alworth, George
Drury Hart, Franker Woods, and Frank McCormack.

And now try and control yourself!!! Here is where
you will meet the ““Dames,” the American and English
Belles, who live over here. And there is no Garden of
Roses in all Paris half so lovely as this one. The show
girls come here each evening, to dine. Then, when the
curtain rings down, back they skoot again. You will
meet pretty ones, witty ones, ginny ones, cuddly ones,
haughty ones, hungry ones, thirsty ones, and lovely
ones, all. A great bevy of Buds, truly. You will remem-
ber this address, if you forget all the others. 14 Rue
Pigalle. Haven of Cliff Thompson and Fred Payne.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 187

And no place like it, on earth. Absolutely informal.
Meet any girl you like, but act like a gentleman. Here
is where you get the best in Paris. You will fall hard
for one of these.
P.S. Be sure to see the Art Gallery downstairs.
P.P.S. Be sure to meet Mary Richardson. Sweet-
est, prettiest, most charming girl in Paris, this Mary.

AUBERGE DU CUL BLANC

22 Avenue Niel. Near the Arc de Triomphe. Ex-
cellent food. Picturesquely decorated. Reasonable.

APPOINTMENT PERIOD
This time, expressly set aside for keeping that
“Date” you made last night with that new blonde you
met at Cliff Thompson’s. (You can write the rest,
yourself. )
FOUQUETS

If ever you are strolling up the Champs Elysees, the
most important Terrace Cafe, is Fouquets.

NAPOLEON BAR

The newest Bar in Paris. At the end of the beauti-
ful new Lido Champs Elysees, Arcade. Next to Hotel
Claridge. Champagne Cocktails 7 francs and with
each one, a ticket which entitles you to a chance on
a doll; raffled off each afternoon at 7 o’clock. To-day,
sitting across from you here, is John W. Campbell, that
big money-making man from Manhattan, who startedertrie Sy EIESERSLTERSESTERESEESLDTT REET ESEET PTO TET SLE ETETSTELEA TEE EET DE Ta Pee TaTTTEST TAPS PSiates Peres)
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188 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

25 years ago with a second-hand desk, chair and three
lead pencils and built up the present day Colossal 10
million dollar Credit Clearing House. This John W.
Campbell is the chap who spent $50,000 to build his
own private office. Among other fabulous luxuries that
it contains is a Pipe Organ, and priceless woods and
tapestries; a kingly collection of jades, and the largest
oriental carpet in existence. He is entertaining this
evening Clarence Chamberlin, the great American Air
q Conqueror and his charming young wife, The Lady
Wilda.

DINE AT THE CHICAGO INN

31 Avenue La Bourdonnais (near the Eiffel Tower).

Another wallop of a surprise. This place, the Food-
Maison of one Willie Morgan. A 7-foot colored boy
from Texas, who came to Paris, opened a Restaurant
and brought all the Texas dinner table traditions right
along with him. When Willie comes out of his kitchen
to greet you and shake you by the hand, he is going to
hand you a menu in Texas language, that will first
scare you, then excite you and then torment you most
to death. Your wild dancing eyes, when you finally
get them under control, are going to see ‘Chicken
Maryland with smashed potatoes and scream gravy! !”
“Roast Turkey, chestnut stuffing and cranberry
sauce.” “Waffles and maple syrup.” “Roast beef
hash and poached egg.” Yes. Yes. Don’t get ex-
cited. You may have it all!!!
You will meet Mr. and Mrs. Harry Whiting BrownPARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 189

of Glendale, Ohio, here; and with them, always, the
lovely Mattie Morse Griffiths, noted Kentucky Belle.

A LIQUEUR AT DE NEANT

34 Boulevard Clichy. A whale of a novelty, here.
You enter a dark room and have your drink on a coffin.
Served to you by the Undertaker, himself. In long
black coat and high hat. The Chandelier above you
is made up of the bones of a Cocotte. Next you are
given a mirror that you may stick out your tongue and
see that you haven’t long to live. Then your drink
comes on. You are told it is Poison. Next a skull
flies out of a casket. The casket carries a sign that
reads: “For Rent.’’ Next the characters in the pic-
tures on the walls fade out and in their places, skele-
tons appear. And now you get up and follow a Monk,
in brown cowl, through a long, dark passage, into a
cave. Here you are placed in a coffin and as your
friends look on, you vanish and become a skeleton.
Then, quite as mysteriously, you are brought back to
life. Now through another long dark passage, into a
second cave. Here, even stranger scenes are enacted.
A most original and amusing adventure.

BAL DU MOULIN ROUGE

This, the biggest, strangest, toughest, most seething
dance hall you were ever in. And the real thing. Not
for Tourists. Blacks and whites dancing together.
And, what of it? The prettiest white girls and the
blackest men and vice versa. They dance the old time

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190 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

French Can Can. And later, a Ballet. A great nov-
elty, this place. Here mingle the Street Girl and her
Apache Pervert; the respectable lower class married
woman and her own or someone else’s husband; the
simple little Midinette and the humble boy she will,
some day, marry. All gyrating and bumping one an-
other, on the most Parisian, promiscuous, conglomerate
dance floor in Paris. Spend only half an hour here.
Looking on. Go, between 9 and midnight.

AUBERGE DU CLOU

30 Avenue Trudaine. An old Inn. Here Napoleon
stopped to rest and change his horses. Bars on the
windows; and full of old pistols and Flint-rifles. And
: a very naughty picture on the wall. (Don’t go, just to
see the naughty picture.) The food is especially
Savory.

GIFT BUYING

The Angels protect the man who goes to Paris and
doesn’t bring back the presents, that every “He” and
every ‘She’ on his usually long list, expects. The Gift
buying streets are the Boulevards Madeleine and Capu-
cines; the Rue de Rivoli and the Rue de la Paix. Also
the miles of show cases that adorn the lobby of every
leading Hotel. If, in doubt, for your “women” take
them perfume. It costs only a third in Paris. Or
bags. Or dolls. Or lingerie. And for your ‘men,”
take them a Charvet cravat. Charvet is in the Place
Vendome; and the finest cravats in the world.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 191

GRAND ERMITAGE MOSCOVITE

24 Rue Caumartin. A good dinner here for .30
francs. Soft lights and a Jazz and Gypsy Band. Some
really great Russian singers. One especially clever
artist, with the guitar. A place, exceedingly popular.
And dining here this evening, at a great, jolly table
right in front, you glimpse some more celebrated Ameri-
cans. There is George D. Baker, Motion Picture Di-
rector, but now retired to a sweet, carefree Parisian ex-
istence on a fat income. And with him we see once
more that corking chap Alworth, Frank Alworth, lead-
ing man of a hundred New York plays, and now one
of the really striking figures in Paris’ inner shrine of
notables.

And there also the courtly Courtleigh (William), he
who shines so scintillant at important American ban-
quets. And there is John Wray. And once more, the
radiant Tom Martin, and Joseph Herbert, Jack
Cherry, and that handsomest of all the handsome
Artists of the New York Theatre, Hale Hamilton, hus-
band in private life to the glorious Grace Larue.

Judge, therefore, this rendezvous by such plutocratic
patrons as these.

CAVEAU DES OUBLIETTES ROUGES

A great stunt. Have a liqueur in a sewer. With
real Parisians. It is doubtful if a Taxi driver can find
it. The address is, 11 Rue St. Julien le Pauvre. Just
say, “Notre Dame.” Get out at Notre Dame and walk

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192 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

around the corner. This is one of the most interesting
and delightful stunts in Paris. A group of itinerant
musicians have gotten hold of an old sewer, a part of
the ancient dungeon of the Prison of Notre Dame and
they have fitted it up with old tables and benches.
You go ’way down under the ground and hear the old
French songs and the old French instruments. You
chant and clap your hands with the rest of them and
have a marvelous time. See also down here, the bones
4 of the ancient prisoners who were buried alive in sealed
| tombs. You will go again to this place.

BAL TABARIN

The same description as of the Bal du Moulin
Rouge. “Blacks and Whites,” and the French Can
Can.

HARRY’S DOWNSTAIRS CABARET

The basement of your friend Harry’s New York Bar.
Now that you are an “I. B. F.” you should “Buzz”
about this place, often. Here, Bill Henley sings all the
peppy new songs from Broadway (and Bill can sing)
and Bud Shepherd plays the accompaniment (and Bud
can play). And the festive Charles Kinney, in mellow
mood, acts as Master of Ceremonies. Every drink, 10
francs. (Champagne not compulsory.) No formal
dress. If you don’t have a good time down here—go
see a physician. A long, rambling room; the walls
hung with clever cartoons by SEM; and the tables
adorned with the flower of Oxford Bagged Youngaertecte

   
   
    
   
   
 
  
  
  
 
  
   
  
   
   
  
   
 
 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 193

America and his best girl. Here they strut their stuff,
light each new cigarette from the stub of the last one—
and raise the roof. “I’ll say, this is Hotsy-Totsy,” says
she. And, “This is the life,” says he. ‘Come on, you
Bill and you Bud—whoop her up. We are never going
home.”

This is Harry’s Downstairs Cabaret. Starts at
10.30 and runs ’till 2. Drop in often, if only for an
hour, between times. And see here such Bon Vivants
of Broadway as Jack Ewald, Burton Rascoe, Joe V.
Connolly, Arno Merkle, and George Sweet.

CAFE SAVOYARD

The Rue Lamark, at the very foot of Sacre Coeur.
You sit on a high bluff against a whole side of solid
glass, and as you lunch, you can look about and see all
Paris. A delightful view, a novelty and good food.

ROBINSON IN THE TREES

A taxi ride outside the city, but such a novelty. You
climb up and sit in a tree, and your food is pulled up
in a basket. And after lunch, it is a sight to see about
50 people ride up on horseback and jump their steeds
over a little stream that runs through the place. Also,
a big dance floor. You wanted a real novelty. Here
is one. Go to Robinson’s and have your dinner, up in
a tree top. And this may be one of those fortunate
nights when you will meet here the charming Mr. and
Mrs. Fritz Williams, those glorious Artists of the New
York Theatre.

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194 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

LE CIEL
(Heaven)

A spectacular, ballyhoo stunt place on the Boulevard
de Clichy, Montmartre. The illusion is that you are
in Heaven. Sitting around at The Lord’s Supper, with
the 11 other Disciples. You talk to the Angel Gabriel,
and through a mystic ceremony, you ascend to Heaven.
Many curious adventures.

Next door to this place (Heaven) is:

L’ENFER
(Hell)

And here, you just reverse the previous process. You
go to Hell. Also amusing.

LA PETITE CHAUMIERE

2 Rue Berthe. At the steps of the Fanicula, leading
to the top of Montmartre.

Before proceeding further, we must get better ac-
quainted. This is not a nice place, strictly speaking.
The life here is a definite part of Paris and a well-
known phase of humanity, but if you are circumspect
and intolerant, do not visit here. This is a place where
men dress as women. Men of a certain degenerate
tendency who infest every large city. If, however, you
do want to see these Freaks cavort around and swish
their skirts and sing in Falsetto and shout, ‘““Whoops,
my dear,” this is the place to see them. Nothing is
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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 195

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as when you entered. It is meant to be funny. Take a
it that way, rather than to bother to analyze it, or to 5
be shocked. And funny, it is. Excruciatingly funny. 4
And if this exhibition has amused you, here are some
more addresses of places of the same character, where
you can go and see some more fairy-nice boys (say it
fast and it sounds all right).

CHEZ ROLAND .
15 Rue Aux Ours

CHEZ MA BELLE SOEUR
47 Rue Caulincourt

LA TRIBOULETTE

243 Rue Saint Jacques

 

 

And the Angel Bar, Champs Elysees Bar and the
Liberty Bar. The Fairy-Nice Boys are thick in these
places.

LE PARADIS

Rue Pigalle. A real racket here, Black men danc-
ing with French girls. Black women dancing with
white men. Leader of orchestra singing through mega-
phone. That haunting accordion again. More girls
pouring down the stairs. More Gitz Rice music. Men
dancing with their hats on. A French soldier dances
by. Black man walks about the tables trying to get
a white partner. He gets one. She dances with both
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196 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

the dance floor, grab a girl away from her partner,
handcuff her, drag her screaming back up the steps,
and out. A pickpocket. But on goes the dance. You
get plenty of winks and smiles. Two come over and
ask you to dance. You say, “No, thank you.” But
Ladies must live. So you give them 50 francs each.

LA CABESSON AT VILLE D’AVRAY

Just a short, lovely drive outside Paris. On the road
to Versailles. All terraced in Cubicles. You dine in
a beautiful park, alongside a fairy lake. The same
lake, painted so many times by Corot. The real Coun-
tryside. You will like it. And many interesting people
sit nearby. A favorite rendezvous of the Dolly Sisters.
Of Pearl White. Of Evelyn and Katherine Mayer. Of
Marion Whyte, Robert L. Hague, George A. Randel,
Donald Foster and A. A. Fraser (of Remington Type-
writer Fame).

TAKE THE BOAT AGAIN

This time, go to the other end of the Seine. Ride to
Porte Saint Cloud. To Suresnes. A beautiful ride.
And the cute little boat. You sit up on deck, out in
the open. Every few minutes, it stops and takes on
passengers. And these are real Parisians. A boy
comes on and sells Eskimo Pies; chocolate encased iced
cream. You pass all the beautiful old gray castle-like
buildings; the Coty Perfume works; scores of River-
bank Cafes; little nook-like places to come to dine—
and all this lovely scenery, fine air, interesting, his-
torical panorama, costs you about 2 francs. Disem-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 197

bark at Suresnes and take another boat back to the
“Concorde” landing, where you got on. Don’t balk at
this trip. It is perfectly easy to find the boat. And
enormously worth-while. Takes about 3 hours, the
round trip.

BOEUF SUR LE TOIT

(Bull on the Roof)

28 Rue Boissy d’Anglais. Just around the corner
from the Madeleine Church. A long, narrow room
where you sit against the wall. A real American Jazz
band plays incessantly. One of the jolliest groups in
up-town Paris. You dance and dine and make fre-
quent trips to the Bar. Good food and interesting boys
and girls. Very few French. The piano pounder here
gets all the new stuff, red hot from Broadway. And
you will see also in this place those marvelous Amer-
icans, James J. Ryan, Brandon Peters, J. Keirn Bren-
nan, Hugh Cameron, Counselor Edwin Campbell, and
Herbert Corthell.

AUX BELLES POULET

32 Rue Blondel. And once again, we must have that
Brotherly and Sisterly understanding. This place is
not for every reader of this book. And certainly not
for young boys or young girls; or for ladies who are
squeamish. If you are one who would be shocked to
walk into a Cafe and see that the “waiters” serving
the drinks and dancing about the room, are young
girls, without any clothes (not even a bangle on)—
then turn this page quickly—and get your mind on

    
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 

 

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198 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

  
    
   
    
 
  
  
    
   
    
  
  
  
   
 
  
 
  

something else. This, is a huge cafe. About 50 girls
promenading up and down, all absolutely nude. They
are young girls. None are over 25. You enter and
the entire 50 of them (or all those who are not other-
wise engaged) make a rush for you and stand in line,
for inspection. You blink, redden, hazily point to one
or two, and these selected ones drape themselves about
your table—and you buy them drinks. Innocent
enough. And after a few minutes, you feel not at all
embarrassed. These girls, decidedly gentle and un-
assuming. They make no unseemly advances and
speak no English. Sit as long as you like, drink and
Look. This, a great place in Paris—“‘Aux Belles
Poulet.” Sometimes called “The Chicken Run.” Un-
less you are especially narrow minded and crabbed,
you will get a kick out of it; and the little girls are
sweet and assuredly have lovely bodies. “The Human
Form divine,” you know. No reason to look with
scorn or sneer upon that.
Another similar place, but “not quite,”

is
LA BOHEME
On the Montmartre Hill. Here daring little damsels
also trot about the tables and flirt and frolic—dressed
about, as nice little girls in America, dress—in their

bathrooms.
LA FETICHE

Here, a sure-enough novelty. You have been to see
the young men dressed as young ladies. Now go andWeer rst tisatosl tatu.
pa TS tei hereed ds

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 199

see the young ladies dressed as young men. A Bar, a
cabaret and a restaurant. All manned by women, in
men’s clothes. A woman orchestra, women waiters.
You saw the play, “The Captive” (or heard of it) in
New York. This is “it.” Be careful of the girl you
take with you. Some of these dashing dames of mag-
netic masculinity, may get “smashed” on her and try
to take her away from you. A harmless place, though.
Unique, amusing, “educational.” Most assuredly,
Paris.
RUE DE LAPP

This, the Bastille district. The home of the Apache.
Not tough any more. You are safe here, because, out-
side every resort, there stands 2 Gendarmes. Seldom,
if ever, any disorder. A long dark lane of Apache
Dance Halls. The noise, terrific. An uproar of
mechanical pianos, banjos, drums, accordions, laugh-
ter, boisterous stamping and hand clappings. The
Apaches are making merry. They dance, not alone
with their girls but “man with man,” and always with
their hats on. Blacks and whites, of every phase.
Drop in for a squint at the Bal Musette, Bal de Fa-
mille, Bal Bousca. See the big fat Breton woman,
come out on the floor, after every dance, a big leather
bag slung over her shoulder and holler to the dancers,
to kick-in with some more centimes. And if you mix
in really, with this crowd, you have to dance with any-
one and everyone who asks you. They don’t want any
“high-hatters” here. But of course, you can stand on

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200 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

the side lines and look. The only place in Paris, where
you see the real Apache. But he is not your pet stage
Apache. He doesn’t carry a knife in his teeth, nor
drag his dame about the floor, by her hair. He is a bad
boy, though, this Rue de Lapp Lothario. If he is good
looking and has that certain something called “It,” he
may have 5 girls, out on the street “working” for him.
And every cent, they get from other men, he takes
away. Go down and see these charming(?) young
gentlemen. They do wear Caps, colored silk mufflers
around their necks, and some, silk sashes exactly as in
the movies. And see the Apache also in the Rue des
Gravilliers, the famous Bal de la Vache, and “The
Senate” near the Place Maubert, where go the Absolute
Dregs of Paris.

CHINESE RESTAURANT

Rue de Carmes. Off Rue des Ecoles. See dozens of
Chinese men with white girls. A Chinese dinner. A
clean place, interestingly decorated. A great novelty.

THE CATACOMBS

All your life, you have heard of the Catacombs of
Paris. Go now and go through them. From here, the
early Romans quarried their stone to erect their build-
ings. Next, thousands of bodies were exhumed from
Paris cemeteries and thrust here; and still later, these
catacombs were used as Hatcheries for conspiracies
against the Crown. Lafayette held his secret meetings
here. Few people you will meet in Paris can tell you2 iS8FS

      
   
  
 
 
 
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
  
  
   
 
 
 
 
   
    
 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 201

where the Catacombs are located. Here is that coveted
information. Taxi to corner of Place Denfert—and
Rue Rochereau.

“THE RAT MORT”
(“The Dead Rat’)

They hand you a funny paper hat and a rattle. Girls i
have no backs in their dresses and wear their pearls "
behind, down to their hips.

You risk a dance. A dainty little French Coquette,
with a saucy pug nose and a permanent marcel. (“But
Brethren and Sistern, what we need in this here town
is less permanent waves and more permanent wives.”’)
You spin around famously together, She babbles in
French and you order ze bottle of “fizz.” A special
gentleman brings the cooler. A pushcart backs up.
Eight different brands of wine. You make your selec-
tion. The great ceremony begins. The bottle is placed
tenderly in the cooler. It is spun about among the ice
cubes, like a top. A towel is wrapped around both the
bottle and the cooler. And just as you look over at
the Doll and say “Ah,” and rub your palms, the waiter
approaches you once more, bows, removes the cloth,
pats the bottle, twirls it around again, and just when
your agony becomes unendurable, he decides that still
it is not sufficiently iced; puts the cloth back, and
walks away and leaves you flat. But by and by, your
wish comes true and you get it. And it goes bubbling
down. And another. And another. And it is so cheap
and so beautiful that you would bathe in it, only the

 

 

  

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202 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

bubbles hurt your skin. Next you throw confetti,
jiggle your rattle, dance some more and toss ze Bebe
100 francs for her “time,” to be a gentleman.

Here you meet a distinguished gentleman of New
York and Stockholm, Mr. G. Hilmer Lundbeck, Man-
aging Director of the Swedish American Line;—and
talking with him, you get all enthusiastic and excited
and fidgety. You never before heard any one wax
so eloquent over Norway, Sweden and Denmark; that
glorious ‘Land of the Midnight Sun.” And this Mr.
Lundbeck tells you also of the magnificent new oil burn-
ing ship Gripsholm. Right then and there, you firmly
resolve that this will be your next trip. Mr. Lundbeck
is entertaining here this evening some other illustrious
Americans: Bernard Hamblin, Bennett Musson,
Jerome Daley, Richard Carlisle, Colonel I. R. Nelson,
Clarence Blair, Harry Bradley, Ignatio Martinetti,
Edgar Nelson, Tom Carrigan, Charlie Pitt, Colonel
Wm. “Underwood” Simmons, William Wiley, Manag-
ing Director of the Cincinnati Enquirer, elected by
acclamation, the most popular visiting newspaperman
in Paris, and Sidney F. Katz, the New York attorney,
said to have tried and won (in association with his
brother) more law cases than any other Barrister be-
fore the American Bar. All here at “The Rat Mort.”

MITCHELL’S

Rue Pigalle. The All Night “Childs” restaurant of
Paris. Ham and eggs at 6 o’clock in the morning, be-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 203 i

fore going to bed or to “the hospital.” You are served
by Harlem negroes and also table-mated by them. But
this is Paris. Go, get a kick out of it, Never mind
how you were brought up. Colored folks in Paris are
nice folks. And everyone goes to Mitchell’s and
loves it. :

RESTAURANT CHEVAL PIE

Victor Emanuel, off Champs Elysees. Lots of
atmosphere. Decorations most picturesque. The
name “Cheval” has something to do with a horse.
Maybe it means, you will eat like one. Anyhow this
reminds you of the gag about the two Americans. In
a Paris restaurant, having oysters. One said to the
other, “I want some horse radish, but I cannot make
the waiter understand.” “Well,” said the other,
“““Cheval’ is horse, and ‘rouge’ is red, now dammit if
we only knew what ‘Ish’ was, we could get it.” This,
the favorite Paris haunt of the celebrated American
Railroad Magnate, Charles P. Morse, he who played
such a big part in the building of the Erie into the
great railroad system that it is to-day; and who has
now retired after 30 years of magnificent service. If
you meet him here, order what he orders. HE knows
food! !

 

CHEZ LES VIKINGS

 

A Norwegian place. The best restaurant and most
picturesque interior in the Latin Quarter. Just the
“atmosphere” you like.

  

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204 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

THE NOTORIOUS CAFE DU DOME

Corner of Boulevard Raspail and Boulevard Mont-
parnasse. To the Paris Latin Quarter, what Rector’s
used to be, in New York. Here every habitue of this
section, comes to sit, sup and “‘dish the dirt.” (And
here, you can get a “LOAD of Dirt.”)) An enormous
expanse of Terrace-tables and a huge Bar inside. You
see all the Nuts and all the Freaks, plain and fancy;
broke and affluent; mangy and modish, glassy-eyed and
goo-goo eyed; long haired and bald-domed; Van Dyke
bearded and pasty-faced; decorous and degenerate;
pious and perverted; mademoiselle-ish young men and
young-men-ish mademoiselles. Every sort, type, and
figured male and female you ever beheld, inside or out-
side a side-show. They go but one place en masse and
that is to the Cafe du Dome. But when you see them,
you will be disappointed. They don’t look particu-
larly starved or poetic or painter-ish, as you have pic-
tured the romantic, thrilling Latin Quarter-ite to look.
Those who get themselves up the most grotesquely, are,
g times out of 10, Americans. And the Americans
do it more for a “Gag” than through any artistic or
Bohemian-ish temperament. But go sit for awhile on
the Dome Terrace. Also, across the street, another
Cafe, the Rotonde; some but not as many nuts. And
who is that sitting over there? Why, it is Madame
Pauline Nova, the handsome and aristocratic mother-
in-law of Charles A. Levine, the daring and dashing
Eagle of the Ether.reteu'

     
  
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 205

THE SELECT
Latin Quarter. Open all night. At its best, about
5 A. M. The haven of tired “street walkers” and
American gluttons for more. Gentlemen with long
wavy hair and long, painted finger nails and other
gentlemen who, when they walk, walk “Falsetto,” toss
their hips and lift their brows. But interesting.

THE DEUX MAGOTS

Latin Quarter. Where one hears more dirty stories
and advice as to where to buy “adorable dresses” all
in English than anywhere else in Paris. The rampage
of youths of Pep and Pocket book, and their Sub-Deb
“dates.” And also here, you find the sober-faced
Frenchman and his wife, craning their ears to catch a
word and stretching their eyes to study these strange
specimens from America.

And also in this Latin Quarter, are the Closerie des
Lilas; Baty’s, The Dingo, The Ste. Cecile, Henriette’s
—and the famous Le Duc, on the Terrace of which
place Du Maurier wrote “Trilby.”

A story is told of one frisky American Artist who
frequénts this place, that last year he was designated
to “touch up” a painting in an old Latin Quarter
church. Upon completion of his work, he presented a
bill for 2,500 francs ($100). The bill seemed exces-
sive to the Sexton, and it was promptly returned to the
artist, with a curt notation, to “itemize it.” This is the
way the facetious young American student itemized it:
(Dr. John Roach Straton—is this Bill correct? )

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206 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

   
  
   
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
  
  
 

Correcting the Ten Commandments.. $7.10
Embellishing Pontius Pilate and put-

ting new ribbon on his bonnet.... 3.02
Putting new tail on the rooster of St.

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Washing the servant of the High
Priest and putting rouge on his

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Putting new stone in David’s sling .. _ 1.10
Enlarging the head of Goliath ...... 1.03
extending saulisvlersi. 5) 2.05
Mecorating7Noah’s Ark ..4....... 6.50
Mending the shirt of the Prodigal Son 6.35
Brightening up the flames of Hell ... .60
Putting new tail on the Devil ...... 1.50
Putting a silver dollar over the poor

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 207

CAFE DES MARINERS

A big kick here. On the river bank. Near the Ex-
position Bridge. Off the Champs Elysees and easy to
get to, yet when you do get there, a different world. A
sort of a Boarding house for Fishermen, The real
French housewife passes the soup tureen from one to
the other and you help yourself. Likewise all the
other food. You look out and see the men fishing.
Best ‘“Boo-ya-bis” in Paris. (The French soup of
fish, lobster, mussels and bread, all smashed up to-
gether.) And some of your companions have names
you know well. There is Jimmy Widmeyer, Leo Ca-
rillo, Doctor Monroe Greenberger, Commodore Rithiof,
G. Erikson, Wm. (“Bud”) Murray, Bertram Maskiell,
Arthur Kleve, Percy Helton, Tom Brander, Roger
Gray, August Ferger, Arthur Treacher, Judge Thomas
F. McAndrews. A gala place this, and a corking
novelty.

PIGALL’S

A good gob of fun here, throwing little balls at one
another and the new stunt of “the Doll Dance.” The
dance floor is set off in squares and each square is
numbered. A wheel is spun, to decide which is the
number for that dance. If it hap-ens to be number
“23” the girl who is standing nearest to “23” when
the music stops, wins the doll. And you, if you can
wink, win the Girl.

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Substitute Restaurants

EXPENSIVE
In the Bois.

(In addition to The Chateau Madrid, Armenonville,
Les Cascade and Dauphine) the others are Normandy,
) Pre-Catelan, Pavilion-Royale, Chalet des Iles. If
summertime, try and work them all in.

 

Substitute—MID-Town Restaurants
(Expensive )
Carlton, Henry’s. La Rue.
Voissin.
Drouant.
LEDOYEN

A flashy place on the Champs Elysees. Just behind
the Petit Palais. You dine on the terrace under an en-
chanting sky, near a lovely splashing fountain.

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Substitute Restaurants
(Inexpensive )

In this group, you will find only those real old-time
and marvelously atmospheric French Restaurants.
They are truly quaint and lovely. If your stay in
Paris is prolonged, visit as many of them as you can;
or mark them for your next visit. Such food. Such
traditions. Enchanting little places. To be enjoyed
hugely and thought of tenderly.

CHEZ MARIANNE

Boulevard Clichy. Near the Moulin Rouge.
Famous for the part it played in the French Revolu-
tion. A Museum as well as a wonderful eating place.
Here, see the signature of Robespierre and his com-
panions. Eat Calvados. The rendezvous of French
actors.

PAILLARD’S

Boulevard des Italiens. Where the great Restau-

ranteurs, themselves, are trained.

CAFE DE LA REGENT
161 Rue Saint Honore. This one opened in 1718.
And here in those days, the great Bonaparte came to
dine and play chess with Robespierre. Their old table,

still here.
209

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CAFE PROCOPE

Said to be the first Restaurant in Paris (now there
are over 2,000). 13 Rue l’Ancienne Comedie. The
favorite haunt of Voltaire, Danton, and Rousseau.
Charming, hallowed atmosphere.

LA VENUE
Opposite Gare Montparnasse. Latin Quarter. Dine
in the Garden. Good music.

MAXIM

Famous for generations, as the gay spot of mid-town,
Paris. Your Dad and your Grandad had their fling
at Maxim’s. Don’t miss it. For luncheon or dinner.

PAVILLION DU LAC
Parc de Montsouris. Special Band Concert with
dinner.
LAPRE’S
24 Rue Drouot. One of the oldest.

NOEL PETER
24 Passage des Princes. Another delightful old
historic place.
GRIFFON
6 Rue D’Antin. One of the very famous ones.

BRASSERIE DES PYRAMIDS

3 Rue des Pyramids. Everyone likes this place.
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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 211

CAPUUETS MTIA TS a Tk

MARGUERY

You have tasted or heard of “Sole Marguery.” It
originated here. One of the huge 100% Parisian
Restaurants. Large orchestra and food you will never
forget. Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle.

LAPEROUSE
On the Quai des Grands Augustins. Famed for
grilled cutlets.
FOYOT’S
Rue Vaugirard. An important one,

BOEUF A LA MODE

Another favorite eating place of Bonaparte. Housed
in an old mansion built by Cardinal Richelieu. Here
is atmosphere, plus.

RESTAURANT MEDICI’S

On the sidewalk, overlooking Luxembourg Gardens,
and near a lovely fountain and pool.

 

GAUCCAIR

96 Rue Petit Champs. See here, the French jour-
nalists.

 

 

PRPVENTETEES PRET FTE Tree eee eeSubstitute Cabarets

   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
   

THE CAFE BRUANT

Waitresses in Hunt Costume. Red breeches and
patent leather boots. And red table cloths. Old car-
toons painted on walls. A la Elbert Hubbard Kuhlhoff.
Drinks fiying through the air. That accordion music.
Oo la la! The dreamy dance music of the world. A
weird effect. Absolutely fascinating for dancing. The
Tango, the most popular of all dances. They encore it
a dozen times. A girl sings, ‘“Hotsy Totsy” in French.
You are the only American and you are discovered.
The pianist gets your eye and very lightly on the keys,
you hear, “Hallelujah,” “Hinky Dinky Parley vous.”
He winks and smiles. He gets a tip which he deserves.
And you sit there and think of your old Pal, Jimmy
McHugh, who wrote most of these tunes and wish that
he could be with you—and then you go out, and by a
strange coincidence you meet him at the Hotel Am-
bassador. And how Jimmy does get those ‘‘Peaches”
in Paris.

THE BOULE NOIR

Here, decidedly intimate. No tables. Patrons
seated on long benches drinking beer and singing with
the entertainers. A big chap in red shirt and black

212PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 213

velvet Tam-o-shanter, strides up and down, leading the
mischief. All the songs, off color. Everyone laughing
at you. They know you are not getting a word of it.
Several young ladies, ever so coyly, smile. You grin
back and send them a drink. They come over and
purr their thanks in French. All the French you
know, you learned off Perfume bottles. All you can
say is, “Oh, Chevrolet de Cadillac” or “Bon Soir, how
is your old Pomme de terre this evening?”

LE TOQUET

Orchestra leader in soiled white trousers and tennis
shoes. Girls at tables, alone. Faces seamed and hard.
Enough to frighten strong men into convulsions. Real
thugs, these. When they cough, the walls crumble.
Girls with stockings rolled below knees. And the ac-
cordion again. You catch the eye of two Gendarmes.
They smile. You send them a Drink. “Delighted.”
They strol. over. More grins. More drinks and out.

LA CLOCHE

Here they pass out more little celluloid balls. You
are supposed to get kittenish and throw them at each
other. At a nearby table, a nice kind-faced old gentle-
man. A big Bread Man from Rye. No doubt about it.
Gold spectacles and a lovely, shiny, billiard-ball dome.
Half a dozen girls pick him out. From all directions,
come the balls at him. And is he playful? Just picks
up the balls, and throws them right back at those gosh
darned girls. Yes, Sir! And what a thrill he is going

 

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to give the Boys back home in Rye—in that corner
cigar store or that Elk’s Club, when he tells this lurid
tale about that wild party in Paris.

THE SALLE WAGRAM
A Students’ Ball

Painted on the drum you read, “Bob’s Diabolic
Demons.” And here you see damsels absolutely nude.
And no self-consciousness. They stroll and dance
about and stop and converse with you with as little
concern as though they were stepping into church.
Scores of ‘‘female impersonators” also scattered among
the dancers. And frayed-out Counts with monocles
and hair parted down the back. Negro men and white
girls. And now and then, a commotion in one of the
boxes. You look up. Perched high, is a girl, and the
“Students” are playfully taking her clothes off. Then
a Pageant pours into the hall, More nude girls. On
floats. And balloons, confetti, horns, rattles, paper
caps and champagne. A colorful evening.

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Special Stunt Places

THE MEAT MARKET t

The restaurant opposite the great (Abattoir) “Da-
gorno’s.” Order a porterhouse steak, and eat it with
the butchers. And you think you have tasted steak
before? Never! Here is a steak 4 inches thick and
as tender as the fluff on humming birds’ wings. The i
butchers, of course, save all the good steaks for them- |
selves and sell the others. Go and eat the meat they
eat. And sit right down with them.

 

THE MOSQUE

Every taxi driver knows it. The Mohammedan
Church occupies one part. Bazaars in the other. Sit
on the ottomans, drink Turkish coffee, eat Turkish
candy and buy Turkish souvenirs. Beautifully deco-
rated in real Oriental style. The only place of the
kind in Paris. (There sit those two sterling actors,
Brandon Tynan and William David, cross-legged on
the floor, in true Turkish fashion.)

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THE PRIVATE PICTURE GALLERY OF YVES TANGUY

A real intimate Gallery. A most interesting collec-
tion of his own paintings. And for sale. At present,
he is the Vogue in Paris. You will find Yves Tanguy
at 16 Rue Jacques Callot. And he is the intimate

215

 

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friend of one of the most important and popular young
men in Paris, Marcel Duhamel. Everyone covets an
autographed “‘Tanguy.” Go, get one. Get a dozen,
if you can. Priceless, a few years from now.

THE WINE MARKET

At Bercy. The cafe on the corner. See how they
handle, sample and sell wine. Get right in among the
workers. A great novelty and you drink the wine that
the merchants, themselves, select, and eat the food that
they eat.

THE ZOO

Paris has two Zoos. The Jardin des Planies. Ona
little Island in the Seine. And The Jardin D’Acclima-
tion, near the Bois.

Jardin des Plantes. All the usual animals. But here
also, the Dog Cemetery of St. Quen. A cemetery for
dogs only. Walk about and marvel at the monuments,
mausoleums and marble shafts, erected to the memory
of Pet Dogs. Many graves, with wreaths and fresh
flowers the year ’round. A monument to a St. Bernard.
His epitaph states that he saved children from drown-
ing. And this inscription on another tombstone, “Tou
Jours Gai Fidele et Caressant”’ (a tribute to be envied
even by a human). Another Tombstone has the dog’s
portrait carved in bas relief and alongside it, the face
of its Master. And farther along, the body of “Prince”
lying in state in a Mausoleum. And next, “Colette”
with a little bronze sparrow perched on her tomb. A
Dogs’ cemetery.Be ssolis based cabasascssessassdasdtoniania baisnesas aisles isis ab siete Las iaie ical s csi asec. WARE

     
 
  
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
    

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 217 4

PARIS HAS ITS AUTOMAT

Corner Boulevard des Italiens and Place de |’Opera.
Step right in, drop your franc in the slot and get your
glass of wine, your salami sandwich and your cup of
Java—Funny? This one will slay you. a

PARIS HAS ITS SODA FOUNTAIN 3

On the corner of Rue des Italiens and Boulevard des
Italiens. Called Sam’s, an American Restaurant with
a soda fountain. Open all night. Also flapjacks with
maple syrup.

THE CIRCUSES

Paris has indoor Circuses, running continuously.
Clowns, bareback riders, animals, acrobats, chariot
races and pageants. Well worth while. You see the
real French ‘“‘Home-man” and his family. The princi-
pal circuses, the Cirque d’Hiver and the Cirque de
Paris. (Opposite you, sits Marcella Seifert, that beau-
tiful and marvelous Broadway Actress.)

 

THE FLEAS

Go to Porte Clignancourt. The funniest Market in
Paris. They call it “The Flea Market,” and here, all
over the ground, is littered the strangest lot of Junk.
Old jewelry, silverware, pewter, old clothes, broken
down furniture, watches, dishes, etc. Anything can
be purchased for a song and the purchaser carries it
off, cleans it up, mends it and uses it, and “who is the
wiser?”

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218 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

STAMP MARKET

Visit also the Stamp Market. Champs Elysees at
Avenue Marigny. You remember how, when you were
a youngster you bought and traded foreign postage
stamps. Here, you will see crowds gathered about
stamp stalls, and stamps are spread out everywhere,
over tables and chairs. The Traders are old men as
well as boys, and they argue and sputter and fuss as
though the possession of a certain stamp were the most
important consideration in their lives.

VISIT THE BOOKSTALLS

Along the Quay of the Left Bank. Go over the
Bridge off the Place de la Concorde. Here find block
after block of tiny bookstalls, books both old and mod-
ern, books of fiction, poetry, drama, history, philoso-
phy, music and religion. Prices, “nothing.” If you are
a lover of odd books, here will be your Paradise. Also
Paintings on sale. Propped up against the walls of
buildings. “A song” buys these.

IF YOU WOULD GO SLUMMING

There are two neighborhoods particularly poverty
stricken. The bottom-most pits of the dregs of human-
ity. The Rue Martin and around the Gare de Lyons.
Filthy lodging houses with their occupants lying prone
upon the floor and huddled together, 50 in a room.
Cripples and beggars; an appalling sight. Go, if you
are curious. There are no slums more wretched than
Paris Slums.ae ir satecates acai gshL Suan ASR LS Lags Tessie lees tee teacsicisiad iets side cial eatenteshal ini biitetst Castile blast eaa sass

BEAUTIFUL DRIVES—OUTSIDE PARIS

And the right way to do these, is to start from the
Hotel Ambassador and go with “Mr. Foster.” Foster
is a great chap to “get in” with. He knows every angle
of sight-seeing, and you will travel with him in style,
in luxury and with dispatch, and at the lowest cost.
Mr. Foster, Hotel Ambassador. A great Courier and
a great Companion. He operates a Bus line, de Luxe.

These are lovely trips into the French Countryside.
You may linger in Paris long enough to take them all.
They are delightful motor trips—over beautiful roads,
across charming Greenswards, and lovely streams.

DRIVE “‘A”’

To “Bois Joile’”’ or known to the chauffeurs as “Cent
Quatre” (104) kilometers. This charming villa Hos-
tessed over by an old French actress. Furnishings are
priceless antiques; truly beautiful. Delicious dinner.
And you may meet Mrs. Robert Brodnax and
Florence Ingraham Blake there and that suggests a
charming rubber of bridge. Also see here, Purnell
Pratt, Broadway Leading Man.

DRIVE “‘B”’

“Pavilion Henry IV.” Only half an hour away. In

lovely old Saint-Germain. Get out and walk over the
219

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wonderful terrace that commands a view of all Paris.
Dine in a Garden, said to be the finest in France.

(C9)

DRIVE C

Dine at Moulin de Becherel, at the edge of the old
Mill Pond. On the way to Ramboulett. You will love
it, and the foremost painters and writers and actors go
here.

C699

DRIVE D

To Tessancourt, the Old Mill. An hour and a half.
Famous for Trout and catch your Trout-ie, yourself, if
you like. The stream, in which he flutters and frisks
his way along, runs directly under this old house where
you are dining. It divides the house in twain. A
charming idea, and a wonderful dancing room.

664.9)

DRIVE “‘E

Ho! Ho! ’Tis said ‘all the world loves a Lover,”
and just so it is that all Lovers love “Corne A’ Biche,”
the famous old restaurant within a forest. Also a
colony of Bungalows here. Each Bungalow, on each
merry week-end, houses its pair of Turtle Doves. A
sweet prospect, this. You will not forget ‘“Corne
A’Biche.” Ask Louis Rothchild about it. When he is
not at the Ritz-Carlton, New York, find him here—
and always with a Goddess!! Here is a Boy who
knows his Goddesses—and his Groceries.

DRIVE “FP”

To Les Adelys. But an hour away. And luncheon
or dinner at the Grand Cerf, a hostelry referred to asBere riiecs teed enlaial

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 221

one of the most beautiful in France. Dating back to
the 15th Century. The Host, a Gourmet of renown
and as attested by this interior, a lover of Art. A
happy adventure, and a hearty repast awaits you here.

 

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There are Five great Carnival Seasons in Paris.
April “Mi Careme,” June “The Grand Semaine,” July
“Bastille Days,’’ Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve.

If you happen to be in Paris during ‘““Mi Careme,”
you can see Street Pageants, street dancing and go toa
Ball every night.

If, in June, “The Grand Semaine.” The Prix de
Drag at Longchamps. The day that all the old Coaches
and Talley Ho’s are brought out and all the smart
sporting set drives to the Track, as in the good old
days. A great sight.

THE GRAND PRIX

The great French Derby. Run at Longchamps. An
eye-popping display of women’s fashions. The men in
tails and gray top hats.

THE GRAND PRIX BALL

The night of the Grand Prix. The entire Opera
House turned over to it. A Pageant on the huge stage,
and on every tier and in every corner an orchestra, and
dancing. Most fashionable public event in Paris
society. You see all the Ex-Kings, Princes, Lords,
Dukes and great personages of the world.

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 223 Hi
BASTILLE DAYS i

Paris goes mad on these 3 days. It is their cele-
bration of the downfall of the Kings, the burning of the
Bastille, and liberation of the prisoners. On every
corner, along the Grand Boulevards, the Place de Re- 4
publique, the Place de la Bastille and the Hotel de if
Ville, there is a band stand and music plays for great |
milling crowds, that dance right in the streets. And
this goes on, all night. A thrilling opportunity to study
the tremendous and really beautiful cameraderie of
the French people. Also to see the Americans having
their most joyous fling. Particularly the Stars of the
New York Stage. Meet here and there, among these
happy throngs, such Celebrated Artists as Donna
Pasdeloup, Joan Blair, Caroline Newcomb, Louise
Makintosh, Mary Charles, Virginia Morgan, Florence
Hartley, Byron Hatfield, Charles Kraus, Harry
Neville, James G. Morton, Mortimer Martini, Orrin
Burke, Maxwell Sholes, and Frank Armstrong. See
them dance and sing and play and prance and have the
time of their lives.

 

 

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The Joy Ride Is Ended

It is hoped that you have not been ruined, either
physically, morally or financially.

Go back now to your normal routine; if poorer in
pocket—richer in memory and experience.

Let’s Make This a Big Fraternity

Be a good sport and write and tell the author what
kind of a time you had on this “JOY RIDE” through
Paris. Let’s all come together and form a select little
| society of JOY RIDERS. All our names enrolled in
one Special Book. What do you think of the idea?

Write a letter and send in your name.

Let’s find out just who the “Regulars” are—and
really-truly, organize a sort of a little inner shrine.
A great idea! What is your name? And what kind of
a time did you have—in Paris? Tell us other Boys and
Girls all about it. Address the author in care of
George Sully & Co., 114 E. 25th St., New York, N. Y.

 

NOW TURN THIS PAGE
AND GET A SHOCK!!

224.

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You Are Going to Be Punished

It is coming to you. You might have thought you
“sot away” with a whole lot of stuff—but you didn’t.
Fifteen crimes have you been guilty of:

1—You jumped your ‘“Time-Table’—not once but
many times.

2—You lagged behind for ‘‘another cocktail” and an-
other—and another.

3—There were times when you got up for Breakfast
at 7 o’clock at night and missed everything.

4—You flopped into the Restaurant nearest to you—
instead of going where the ‘“‘Time-Table” told you
to go.

5—You listened to others and let them throw you off.
Went with them instead of where you were
booked.

6—You let one Girl monopolize you, instead of having
One Hundred girls, as ordered.

7—You went every day to Harry’s New York Bar,
instead of once in awhile.

8—You Taxi-ed when you were told to walk.

g—You went back again and again to Aux Belles
Poulet and each time took someone else, just to

“Show off” before them.
225

 

 

 

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10—You flopped down in front of The Cafe de la Paix,
and sat there for hours at a time.

11—You didn’t “Dress” in the evening but twice, dur-
ing your entire stay in Paris.

12—You argued and wrangled with Taxi Drivers, and
waiters and women and theater attaches and made
a “Boob” of yourself.

13—You went to see Cliff Thompson a dozen times—
when your “Time-Table” said you might go there
only 3 times.

14—You drank so much you had to prop your eyes
open with matches:

AND

15—You almost got Married! One morning you so-

bered up and—there she was.

All of these and more crimes, were you guilty of—

Now Stand Up and—Get Your Sentenceo— — Pepe T Tso 327 ; eatsedialeaelis tiisicatenstassi retiset
reff gael added Gls ete i sa San GUAT

YOU ARE SENTENCED TO
ONE MORE WEEK IN PARIS

AND DURING THE WEEK YOUR
PUNISHMENT SHALL BE—

 

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SeRDETELIrSeRIDELTOreter rat Te Peer ees Seto Tet etese Pritt tre tree tree tere tre rs sc htitary pote teiesrer eres ts ceeras stati errs: tiacrersttere. oceans ninaYOU ARE HEREBY SOLEMNLY
SENTENCED TO

Visit the Louvre, Hotel des Invalides, Cathedral of
Notre Dame, the Pantheon, Arc de Triomphe, Tuil-
eries Gardens, Conciergerie, Palais de Justice, Les
Gobelins, Trocadero, Champ de Mars, Chapelle Ex-
piatoire, Church of the Madeleine, Palais de L’Elysee,
Hotel de Ville, Grand Palais de Beaux Arts, Jardin du
Luxembourg, Palais du Luxembourg, Palais Royal,
Musee de Cluny, Musee Victor Hugo, Musee Balzac,
Musee Cernuschi, Place de la Bastille, Chambre de
Deputies, Parc Monceau, Place Vendome, Sacre Coeur,
Sorbonne, Theatre Francais, Eiffel Tower, Malmaison,
Versailles, Grand and Petit Trianons, Place de la Con-
cord, Pere Lachaise, Fontainebleau, The Battlefields.

And this is letting you off easy.

Because these “nice” places do exist in Paris and
nice people visit them. For you to visit them also, will
not be at all amiss. You are going to be asked about
them when you get back home. And it might be just
as well to have something else to talk about besides
Jazz and wine and women. Be gracious about it. You
might as well. There is no way out of it.

You are starting now. Shut your eyes (if you think
that is a nice way to act) and hold your nose and wiggle
all you like. But come on—open your mouth—

HERE COMES YOUR
“CASTOR OIL”

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The First “Dose” Is the Louvre

There is no possible manner in which to describe the i
majesty of these buildings or the treasures within them.
Nor their vastness. Perhaps the largest stretch of
buildings in the world. They stagger both the eye and
the imagination. It can only be repeated that there
are miles upon miles of Paintings, Sculptures, Antique
Furniture, Enamels, Ivories, Ceramics, Gems, Frescoes,
Terra-cottas, Bronzes, Drawings, Water-colors, Pas-
tels. Among the chief treasures, the original Venus de
Milo.

The Louvre, the finest palace in Europe, now de-
voted to housing the National Collections, and to Gov-
ernment Offices. Miles upon miles of Galleries, requir-
ing many days to explore thoroughly. Charles V
added to the Louvre and modelled it into a palace fit
for the residence of a king. But it is.to Francois I,
who tore down his predecessor’s work to erect a palace
worthy of his own magnificence, that we owe the
Louvre, ‘‘the noblest monument of the French Renais-
sance.”” Louis XIII planned an even more ambitious
building, by which the court was to be doubled in size,
thus the work already done formed only a quarter of
the building as he meant it to be. To him, we owe the
remainder of the west wing. The north side of the

court, the east side, and the remaining half of the south
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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

side were built under Louis XIV. The Palais des Tuil-
eries was built by Catherine de Medicis, and then the
idea of connecting the two palaces was conceived. The
north wing, which was to form the fourth side of an
immense court, was begun by Napoleon I, whose work
extends from the Pavillon de Marsan to the Pavillon
de Rohan which was built by Louis XVIII. On Octo-
ber 6th, 1789, the mob brought Louis XVI and his
family hither from Versailles. On June 28th, 1792,
the palace was attacked by the mob, and on August
roth followed the fatal day when the Swiss Guards
were massacred and the palace looted. The palace
was afterwards used for the sittings of the various
Revolutionary bodies, the Convention and the Comite
du Salut Public. On July 28th, 1830, again the mob
rushed on the palace and Charles X was forced to fly,
and on Feb. 24th, 1848, Louis Philippe fled from the
Tuileries.

Between the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and the
statute of Gambetta, extends the Place du Carrousel,
so named from the famed carousal held there under
Louis XIV.

Note:

Strive to arrive at the Louvre on a day when Mrs.
Nina Withers Halsey is escorting a party. Mrs.
Halsey is considered the foremost authority, not
only upon the Louvre, but upon every other histori-
cal place in Paris. She can make your Pilgrimage
absolutely delightful. Address a letter to Mrs.
Halsey, c/o American Express Company, Paris.

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 231 i

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Largest and grandest Arch in the world. Begun
under Napoleon I, who intended it to commemorate #
his victories. Brilliantly placed at the head of the ]
Avenue des Champs Elysees and radiating from it are i
twelve beautiful avenues; among them the magnificent
Bois de Boulogne, laid out in 1854. The arch, unfin-
ished when Napoleon married Marie-Louise, Chalgrin
prepared a temporary arch, covered in canvas, under
which Napoleon and his bride passed. When, under
Louis Philippe, it was finally completed, it was for-
mally opened in 1836. Among other events in which
the arch played a prominent part was upon the return
of Napoleon’s ashes in 1840; the distribution of flags
to the Garde Nationale in 1848; the occupation by the
Prussians in 1871; and the funeral of Victor Hugo in
1885.

 

MUSEE DE BALZAC

47 Rue Raynouard. Founded in 1908, in the house
which Balzac occupied from 1842 to 1848. Contains
much of interest relating to Balzac. Also in this
street, at No. 42, is the House occupied by Marie
Antoinette.

PLACE DE LA BASTILLE

The site of the fortress of the Bastille, originally
built to protect Paris from attack. Later, under
Charles VI, it became a Prison. Among the promi-
nent ones imprisoned in the Bastille were Barnard
Palissy, Cardinal de la Balue, Mathioli, the man in

  

 

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232 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

the Iron Mask, Fouquet, Mlle. de Launay, afterwards
Mme. de Stael, Voltaire, Cagliostro, Cardinal de
Rohan, and Latude. In the Carnavalet is a model
of the grim Bastille, objects relating to it, and various
memorials of Latude. When the Bastille fell at the
Will of the People, July 14, 1789, it contained only
14 prisoners. The foundation-stone of the Colonne
de Juillet, which occupies the center of the Place, was
laid by Louis-Philippe. In the vault, open to the pub-
lic are the bodies of those who fell in the Revolution
of 1830, which this column was designed to com-
memorate. ‘Their names, inscribed on the column. A
fine view from the top, approached by 240 steps. You
can see the Industrial quarter of Paris; the great dock
which communicates with the Seine; the pretentious
tower of the Gare de Lyon, the long boulevard Henri
IV; the great dome of the Pantheon; the smaller dome
of the Val de Grace; the Rue St. Antoine. And in
the distance, Montmartre and Sacre ’Ceeur. Small
remains of the Bastille have been placed on the Quai
des Celestins.

MUSEE CERNUSCHI

7 Avenue Velasquez. This very attractive museum
contains a fine collection of Chinese and Japanese
bronzes and china. On the exterior of the house the
words Fevrier and Septembre are inscribed, which
refer to the fall of the Bourbons and Napoleon III.
Here find the 18th century Japanese portrait statue
of a seated man; also the beautiful ‘““Budda de Me-PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 233

gouro.” Here also is the frieze from the Pagoda at
Yeddo. A small museum, but immensely interesting.

CHAMBRE DES DEPUTES

The old Palais Bourbon, on the Quai d’Orsay, facing
the Pont de la Concorde. Just over the Bridge. Built
in 1772 for the Dowager Duchess of Bourbon. Among
the rooms are the Salle des Pas Perdus, and the Salle
des Seances. This last fine room has, above the Presi-
dent’s seat, a Gobelins tapestry, after Raphael’s School
of Athens. Below it is Lemot’s bas-relief of History.
The orator of the moment takes his place below the
President, facing whom are placed, on the right, the
Liberals, the Reactionaries and the Radicals, who
gradually shade off towards the Socialists on the Presi-
dent’s left. The galleries are reserved for the Corps
Diplomatique, the President of the Republic, and
others who have an official right to a place, and the
press and the public.

See in the Salle des Conferences an interesting case
of medals. In the Salle Casimir-Perier many noted
statues. In the Salle due Trone, beautiful paintings
and in the Salle des Fétes, there are priceless Gobelin
tapestries.

The Palais de la Presidence, also on the Quai
d’Orsay, has been the residence of the President of
the Chamber of Deputies since 1832. Here also is
the building of the Ministers des Affaires Etrangers
which is reserved as 2 residence for visiting sovereigns

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CHAMP DE MARS

A marvelous garden. Landscaped and tiled and
rich in flowers and shrubbery. It extends from the
Seine to the Ecole Militaire and connects the tour
Eiffel with the Trocadero. A glorious promenade on
a summer’s afternoon. In 888 a battle was fought
here, between the Normans and the Parisians. In
1770 it was laid out to form a field for the military
exercises of the Ecole Militaire. Many great exhibi-
tions have been held here; the first balloon ascent;
the Féte de la Federation when Louis XVI and his
people swore fidelity to the Constitution, upon which
occasion, an immense altar, the Autel del a Patrie,
was erected, and a solemn mass celebrated. The revo-
lutionary festival of the “Supreme Being” was also
held here and eagles were distributed to the French
Army by Napoleon, and later Louis XVIII distributed
white flags.

CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE

One of the most intensely interesting and historical
spots in Paris. On the Boulevard Haussmann. Built
on the site of the Cemetery de la Madeleine de la
Ville L’Eveque, and designed to consecrate the spot
in which Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were buried.
The 2830 people who were beheaded on the Place de
la Concorde, were buried in this cemetery; among
them Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Demou-ec ririttsmetsahat Colas casi calls caidas bases isialitLedia lists ikisutecaabes achat kisi dishes iid i gesasdas ti Mcila bi iiiatiataastioa. bee”

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED _ 335 H

lins, Malesherbes, Madame de Lamballe, Danton, and
Bailly. Under the grass plots of the enclosure are
bones of those found in the cemetery, while the nine
tombs on either side contain the remains of the Swiss
Guards who fell at the Tuileries. Facing the chapel
is the tomb of Charlotte Corday, and that of Philippe
Egalite. In the chapel is a statue of Louis XVI. Be-
low it is inscribed his will. Also the statue of the
Queen, with Madame Elizabeth as “Religion” com-
forting her. Below it, her last letter to Madame
Elizabeth.
MUSEE DE CLUNY

24 Rue due Sommerard. On the site of the Palais
des Thermes, of which only fragments of the baths
remain. These baths, Les Thermes, formed part of
the palace built by the Roman Emperor Constantious
Chlorus. This palace, in which Julian the Apostate
was proclaimed Emperor in 360, continued to be used
on occasion by the Frankish kings until the trans-
ference of their dwelling to the Ile de la Cite, when
the buildings fell into ruins, the only remaining por-
tions being these baths. Various royal personages
have occupied the Hotel de Cluny, among them Mary
of England, widow of Louis XII and sister of Henry
VIII, and James V of Scotland. One of the most
interesting Museums in Paris.

 

THE CONCIERGERIE

Now the prison in which prisoners awaiting trial are
kept. The oldest prison in Paris. It gained its sinis-

  

 

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236 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

ter reputation as “an antechamber to the scaffold”
during the Revolution and every political movement,
every religious passion has contributed to its horrors.
Here was enacted the massacre of the prisoners, among
them the Count d’Armagnac, Constable of France, by
the Cabochiens. Among the prisoners confined here
were Marat, Danton, Desmoulins, Madame Elizabeth,
Madame Roland, Madame Recamier, Madame du
Barry, Charlotte Corday, Bailly, the Girondins and
F Robes pierre, himself; Marechal Ney, Prince Napoleon,
| and the poet Henri Chenier have more recently been
imprisoned here; but it is the name of Marie Antoi-
nette which stands out as the prototype of all the
misery held within these walls. During the Revolu-
tion over 1000 people were sometimes imprisoned at
the same moment. Much of the building was burned
down, but the buildings which remain, and which
form part of the Palais de Justice, date from the reign
of St. Louis.

CHURCH OF THE MADELEINE

On the site of a foundation as old as the 13th cen-
tury, the chapel of the Archbishop of Paris. The first
stone of the present building was laid by Louis XV.
The church is surrounded by a colonnade of Corinthian
columns between which are the statues of 32 saints.
The relief on the west facade represents the Last Judg-
ment. The interior, lighted from 3 cupolas, consists
of a large nave with shallow chapels on each side.
On the high altar is a group of Marochetti, represent-sean see fevecdst SFUEFTEPTET TEE TEa FT Eeepenpteg PE AapOEEFerov eet rnegrenepenranzéate tiene gt tareentneneet est tet eT eettbetreedeiteey eeneraiestertzrrrerrscrterrtcaiiy ag

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 2a7

ing the Magdalene being borne to heaven by angels.
A mosaic of Jesus Christ surrounded by characters
important in the history of Christianity; Napoleon I
being crowned by Pius VII. The Baptistry has the
Baptism of Christ; a tablet to the memory of De-
guerry, a cure of the Madeleine, who died for “Faith
and Justice” during the Commune, when he was killed
by the Communists. And here also, a statue of Jeanne
d’Arc, “Liberatrice de la France.” In 1871 nearly 300
Communists were killed before this altar. The Made-
leine is one of the richest and most fashionable
churches in Paris, with excellent music.

PALAIS DE L’ELYSEE

Now the official residence of the President of France.
The entrance, through a beautiful court, is at 51 Rue
du Faubourg St. Honore; the gardens extending
through to the Champs Elysees. This Palace was
built in 1718 for the Comte d’Evreux. Later bought
by Mme. de Pompadour. After her death it was
bought by the Duchesse de Bourbon, confiscated and
sold during the Revolution; finally passing into the
hands of Napoleon I, who signed his second abdica-
tion here in 1815. In this same year, the Duke of
Wellington and the Emperor of Russia occupied it. in
1850 it was the official residence of Louis Napoleon
and the coup d’Etat was prepared here. Under Na-
poleon III, it was restored and since 1871 it has been
reserved for the successive presidents as they are
elected.

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

LES GOBELINS

238

The State manufactory of the magnificent Gobelin
Tapestries. 42 Avenue des Gobelins. Jean and Phili-
bert Gobelin, who have given their name to this quar-
ter, had their atelier here at the end of the 15th cen-
tury, on the edge of the Bievre which flows past the
west side of the Gobelins. It is claimed that the waters
of this little stream had some peculiar virtue in dye-
ing. In November, 1667, Colbert installed the royal
manufactory of “Meubles de la Couronne” in these
ateliers, under the direction of Charles le Brun, whose
statue is in the front court. The Gobelins, though it
does rarely execute work for private individuals, is
almost exclusively occupied in working for the nation.
About 120 workers are employed, of whom half are
women.

The workshops of the Gobelin Tapestry are in two
rooms, the Atelier du Berry and the Atelier du Nord.
The worker works from the back of the tapestry, see-
ing the result in a mirror, and being guided by an
outline drawn on the warp-threads and by a picture.
Here is made the tapis de la Savonnerie. These car-
pets of which a worker can, on an average, make only
one yard a year, are worked from the front. After
you visit here you will no longer wonder that a single
Gobelin Tapestry is worth a King’s ransom,

HOTEL DE VILLE

The Hotel de Ville, occupying a large space between
the Rue de Rivoli and the Seine, and having its maini: 151s asadad a ddcbdssdatenedsel3sanita toes deseieelagetsucd saisinis ieAia sis0e ot shteibaesidaigs tiie citi 5it bisitEAL

    
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
   
   
  
   
  
 
   

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 239

frontage on the Place de l’Hotel de Villa, is the seat
of the municipal government of Paris. The Paris
“City Hall,’ a government consisting of 80 members,
chosen 4 from each arrondissement. The building is
decorated with 130 statues of great French men and
women, figures of Industry and Work, the figure of
the Ville de Paris, supporting the clock; over the clock,
beautiful bronze figures of Art and Science. The in-
terior is of great importance in the study of modern
French painting and ceiling and wall embellishment.
Here is held all the great Public Receptions to illus-
trious visitors. It was in these great Halls that Lind-
bergh and Chamberlain and Levine and Commander
Byrd were formally received after their memorable
trans-Atlantic flight through the air.

GRAND PALAIS DES BEAUX-ARTS

Though the building is primarily built for exhibi-
tions of French art, it affords shelter to the Salon des
Automobiles, the Agricultural Show, and the Cour
Hippique. The salon of the Societe des Artistes Fran-
cais. another salon held by the Societe Nationale des
Beaux-Arts, and the winter salon are held here. Lo-
cated on the Champs Elysees at the most beautiful of

all the Bridges that span the Seine.

MUSEE VICTOR HUGO

6 Place des Vosges. Victor Hugo, after living in
the house 15 years, decided to buy it and make of it a
museum devoted to himself. It was here that Hugo

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240 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

wrote Lucrezia Borgia and other dramas and poems,
and his marvelous Legende des Siecles and Les Mis-
erables; and here, there came to visit him, most dis-
tinguished men of his day.

HOTEL DES INVALIDES

(Tomb of Napoleon.) Founded by Louis XIV as
an asylum for old and disabled soldiers. At present
it is a “military city” used for the service of the mili-
tary Government of Paris and contains most of the
offices of the staff. The important Musee de l’Armee
is also housed here. The tomb of Napoleon, the great
work of modern art, which is so colossal, noble and
pathetic,—the mighty vault beneath the dome of the
Invalides where the greatest soldier of France now
sleeps his final sleep. Guarded by the veterans of
France. Here Napoleon’s ashes were brought from
St. Helena in 1840 on the request of the government
of Louis Philippe.

JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG

The chief interest of these gardens should lie in the
fact that they are the only remaining gardens in Paris
laid out in the Renaissance style. The great Medici
fountain; the marvelous sculpture. Here also is the
present day Paradise of the children, the amazing
Parisian children who make the garden peculiarly their
own. Also in its quiet corners can be seen grave men
teaching the sparrows to take crumbs from their lips.eyed adc ageesOGeA ce ate aso dans sts teal caer edie dei laasndecaaaiee ere, SO

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 241

PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG

In the Rue de Vaugirard. Officially called the Palais
du Senat, and occupied by that body. In 1611, Marie
de Medicis built this palace that resembles the Pitti
Palace at Florence, and exhibits the second stage of
French Renaissance architecture. The building was
enlarged in 1836. Here are the statues of Turgot,
d’Aguesseau, L’Hopital, Colbert, Mole, Malesherbes
and Portalis. The handsome Galerie des Bustes con-
tains busts of senators, and the amazingly ornate Salle
des Fétes is hung with Gobelin’s tapestry, and has a
ceiling representing Apotheosis of Napoleon I. The
Palace, which had been in turn the property of various
great personages, was sequestered in the Revolution,
and made into a prison. Under the Directory, the
courtyard saw the reception given to General Bona-
parte after his return from Italy. In 1852 the senate
was installed, and it has since remained the home of
the upper house under its different names. Among
the trials which took place therein, under the Chamber
of Peers, was the trial of Marshal Ney; of Lauvel,
who assassinated the duc de Berry; of Prince Louis
Napoleon; of the duc de Praslin, the’ murderer of his
wife: and of Fieschi, who attempted the life of Louis
Philippe in 1835.

CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME

Notre Dame de Paris, one of the first great churches
in France erected in the early French Gothic style, is

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242 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

a church of Our Lady, therefore full of reference to
her; a cathedral church of the city, and a royal church,
containing reminders of the “close alliance” between
Church and State. Among the many great scenes en-
acted in Notre Dame were the coronation of Henry VI
of England, as King of France in 1431; the marriage
of Marie Stuart and Francois II in 1552, the conver-
sion of the church into a ‘Temple of Reason” in 1792,
opened again for worship in 1795; the coronation of
Napoleon I by Pope Pius VII in 1804; the marriage
of Louis Napoleon in 1853; and the baptism of his
son in 1857.

The view from the top of Notre Dame is one of
the most striking town views possible, and nothing
can take its place as a means of grasping the geography
of the city. The ascent is made from the northwest
corner of the cathedral, outside; the steps—very dark
—are not difficult, but it is an immense distance to
the top.

The gallery over the facade at the root of the towers,
which is first reached, has on the balustrade the gro-
tesque stone monsters which, in spite of being often
reproduced, are so dramatic. In the south tower,
reached from this gallery, is hung the Bourdon de
Notre-Dame, rung only on great occasions, a bell
weighing 121% tons; given in 1400, by Jean de Mon-
taigu, refoundered and baptized by the name of
Emmanuel Louise Therese in 1686.

You will marvel at the Cathedral of Notre Dame.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 243

THE OPERA HOUSE

The largest and finest Theater in the world. This
grandiose building, the first subventioned theater, was
called into being as the result of a decree of 1860,
which decided that a new Opera House must be built
as a work of public utility. Out of 171 designs placed
before the council, that of Charles Garnier was chosen.
In 1870 still unfinished, the Opera House became a
great military store during the Siege of Paris; it was
completed in 1874 and a vast sum was spent in re-
pairing the damage done during the siege and the
Commune.

The great building which covers 3 acres, occupies
a magnificent position at the head of the Avenue de
Opera. The principal facade is decorated with four
groups, Music, Lyric Poetry, Lyric Drama, and The
Dance; four statues, Drama, Song, Idyllic Poetry and
Declamation. The bronze busts on the facade repre-
senting Mozart, Beethoven, Spontini, Auber, Rossini,
Meyerbeer and Halevy. The lateral fagades have
busts of musicians. The dome is crowned by Apollo,
and has on each side a Pegasus. The bronze groups on
the roof, representing Harmony and Poetry.

In the vestibule are statues of Lulli, Rameau, Gluck,
and Haendel. The splendid Escalier d’Honneur is
carried out in marble with a balustrade of onyx; fig-
ures support the lights. The Grand Foyer contains
sculpture by Jules Thomas, and a ceiling representing
Parnassus, in the center the union of Melody and Har-

 

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244 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

mony, Poetry and Glory; the caryatides supporting
the chimney-pieces. The smaller salons have ceiling
paintings. The whole interior is a triumph of the
ornate, successfully treated. The subject of the ceil-
ing is the Hours of the Night and Day.

PALAIS DE JUSTICE

The Law Courts of Paris. An immense pile of vary-
ing forms and styles, occupying the space between
the Boulevard du Palais, and the Rue de Harlay, and
extending from quay to quay of the Ile de la Cite. The
central facade and the fine gate on the Boulevard du
Palais date from Louis XVI. Under Louis Philippe
the buildings were enlarged.

Entering by the Cour de Mai, on the Boulevard du
Palais, the visitor can ascend the staircase and freely
visit the interesting interior of the law courts. The
Cour de Mai owes its name to the custom, long in-
dulged in by the basochiens, or lawyers’ clerks, of
planting a tree in the court every year in the month
of May.

The Galerie Marchande extends right and left of
the entrance; from either end of it fine galleries, the
Galerie de la Premiere Presidence, and the Galerie
Lamoignon, lead through the Palace to the handsome
Vestibule de Harlay. A door at the north end of the
Galerie Marchande leads to the Salle des Pas Perdus.
This hall is one of the sights of Paris, being the great
meeting ground of lawyer and client, and presenting
an animated scene. The present hall has on the southBa essecec aaa sic sesteGells ao aces ags ahead gdasubeis ddan creed caALG ad Gdsdd ist RS SM,
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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 245

side a monument to Malesherbes, the defender of
Louis XVI in his trial. The figures represent France

and Fidelity.
PALAIS-ROYAL

Now consists of two portions, the block of buildings :
facing the Place du Palais-Royal, a building in which iq
the Consil d’Etat is housed, and the garden behind it, 4
surrounded with galleries. Cardinal Richelieu caused
Lemercier to build him a palace on this site, a palace
called, until 1643, Palais Richelieu. Of this palace
nothing remains but a section in the second court.
When Richelieu died, he left his palace to Louis XIII,
who died a few months later. Then Anne d’Autriche
came to occupy it with her two children, and the
palace became the Palais-Royal. Henriette de France,
the widow of Charles I, also occupied the palace. In
1672 Louis XIV gave the palace to his brother the
Duc d’Orleans, whose son, the Regent Orleans, after-
wards occupied it. During his occupation much of
the palace of Lemercier was pulled down to construct
new buildings. The 4th Duc d’Orleans, after a serious
fire, entrusted the partial rebuilding of the palace to
Moreau, and bought the land to erect a theater on
the site of the present Theater-Francaise. When
Philippe-Egalite, his son, became possessed of the
Palais-Royal, he decided to fill his empty pockets by
building the galleries with shops below them. During
the Revolution the palace became national property,
the shops were filled, and the palace became the haunt
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246 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

In 1801 Napoleon installed the Tribunal in the
building and in 1814 the palace was restored to the
Orleans family. In 1848 it was sacked by the mob,
and was afterwards devoted to various public uses,
until in 1854 Jerome Bonaparte took up his abode in
it; and it was afterwards occupied until 1870 by his
son Prince Napoleon. During the Commune the
palace was for the 3rd time partly burned down, and
rebuilt from 1872-76. In 1789 the garden became
“le forum de la Revolution,” and it was here on the
12th of July that Camille Desmoulins rushed out of
the Cafe de Foy to leap upon a chair and harangue
the people, calling on them to rise; and here, therefore,
it may be said, began the Revolution. Green leaves
were plucked from the trees at the instigation of
Desmoulins to make badges, the emblem of hope.
Here also began the Revolution of July, 1830. Fashion
and rags met in the Palais-Royal where all the world
walked, played, and talked scandal; and it was only
in 1838, when the gaming houses were closed, that
the prestige of the Palais-Royal began to lessen, until
it has reached its present sorry state. But still one
of the great buildings of Paris.

The little cannon of the Palais-Royal, which from
May to October is supposed to be fired at noon by
the rays of the sun, a performance which only comes
off at the exact moment when the sun is rarely power-
ful, is placed in a box just behind the statue of the
snake charmer.\ 7

  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 247 i

THE PANTHEON

The Pantheon, now secularized to make a place of
burial for the men whom France desires to honor, was
begun by the architect Soufflot under Louis XV, who
designed it to replace the medieval Church of Ste.
Genevieve, one of the two patron saints of Paris; a i
shepherd girl of Nanterre born about 421. Her his-
tory and the miracles she wrought for the Parisians
are set out on the walls of the Pantheon.

The Pantheon, which stands on the mountain of
Ste. Genevieve, a mount of great sanctity owing to
the long-continued presence of the Churches of Ste.
Genevieve and St, Etienne-du Mont, is built in the
form of a Greek cross, and the exterior of this im-
mense classical building awes by its very size. The
sculptures of the pediment represent France bestowing
wreaths on her great sons. In front of the building is
Rodin’s remarkable Le Penseur.

The most interesting features of the building are
its connection with Ste. Genevieve, its present purpose
as a national monument, and the modern wall paint-
ings which surround the building.

Some of the great paintings here are Vers La Gloire,
Preaching of St. Denis, Charlemagne being. crowned
by Leo III in St. Peter’s, Charlemagne as the Patron
of Science and Learning, the Death of Ste. Genevieve
and many others.

A visit to the crypt is interesting. In it are buried
the great dead, among them Rousseau and Voltaire.
The view from the dome is a fine one.

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248 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

PARC MONCEAU

This beautiful park is one of the pleasantest in
Paris. A little lake with goldfish, pigeons, ducks, and
children—children everywhere—are among its fea-
tures.

The sculpture includes statues of Edouard Paille-
ron; Ambroise Thomas, with Mignon at his feet;
Gounod, surrounded by Sappho, Juliet, and Mar-
guerite. Chopin, with Night and Harmony; Guy de
Maupassant; the Jeune Faune. The Lionne blessee
and other statues. The tiny lake, La Naumachie, has
by it a colonnade of Corinthian columns brought from
the Church of Notre Dame de la Rotonde at St. Denis,
pulled down in 1719, and the circular stone arcade
from the old Hotel de Ville, burnt in 1871.

The park was arranged in 1861-62 on the site of
the Folies de Chartres, a garden laid out in the Eng-
lish style for Philippe-Egalite in 1785. It is now full
of shrubs and trees, and very green grass. Quiet in
the morning, crowded in the afternoon.

PERE-LACHAISE

(The principal cemetery of Paris.) Entrance Boule-
vard de Menilmontant. The municipality of Paris
purchased the ground to form this cemetery in 1864.
The Maison Mont-Louis earlier occupied part of the
site of the cemetery, a mansion belonging to the Jesuit
order; and one of their number, Pere-Lachaise, the
confessor of Louis XIV, became a person of such im-Wir 1t4d a eaeauaada ueataUnn Aa ease aad asakin saga

  

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 249

portance that the name, Maison Mont-Louis, faded
into the name Maison Pere-Lachaise. Over a million
persons have been buried in this cemetery. Here
Honore de Balzac is buried.

PLACE VENDOME

This beautiful octagonal Place was established on
the idea of Louvois, on the site of the hotel and gardens
of the Duc de Vendome. Begun in 1686, it was only
completed in 1720.

The Colonne Vendome, which stands on the site
of the statue of Louis XIV, destroyed in the Revolu-
tion, was begun in 1806, finished 1810. It was raised
to the “Glory of the Grand Army” by Napoleon the
Great, the bronze used in its construction being made
from cannon taken from the enemy in the campaign
of 1805. The statue of Napoleon which crowned the
column was taken down after the entrance of the allied
troops in 1814, and ultimately melted for the statue
of Henry IV on the Pont Neuf. Under Louis Philippe,
a new statue of Napoleon was erected, but during the
Commune, both statue and column were pulled down,
to be reérected in 1875, the bronze plates being recast
from the old molds.

SACRE-CCEUR

The most spectacular Church in Paris. Crowning
the heights of Montmartre is the immense basilica of
the Sacre-Cceur, begun in 1875 and not yet entirely
completed, the bell tower being still unfinished. It

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250 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

is designed in the Romanesque Byzantine style. This
huge building, so effective in its beauty, on the edge
of the steep hill of Montmartre, looking down over
Paris, is superb. The dome is well worth ascending
for the view.
THE SORBONNE

The University of Paris. Rue des Ecoles. Latin
Quarter. Traditionally the university dates from
Charlemagne, but only under Philippe Auguste was
it formally established. It is still the largest and most
cosmopolitan university, enrolling every year over
30,000 students. The Sorbonne itself, as apart from
the university, was founded in 1257 by Robert de
Sorbon, to be a hostel for poor students of theology.

THEATER-FRANCAIS

In the Place du Theater-Francais stands the
Comedie-Francaise. Originally built for the Varietes
Amusantes. Still governed by the rules laid down for
it by Napoleon in 1812.

The interior contains interesting busts and pictures,
and other souvenirs of the dramatic past. In the fine
foyer is Houdon’s wonderful Voltaire and Dalou’s Vic-
tor Hugo. Under the arcades are medallions of Victor
Hugo, Moliere, and Corneille.

EIFFEL TOWER

The tallest monument in the world, 984 feet. The
ascent, made by lift, though possible to ascend by
staircase. It is idle to mount the tower except on aOr) Re rach Oe Ri ee ae

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PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 251 |

clear, tranquil day. From the second stage the view
is good, but superb from the 3rd or top story, where
the view extends beyond the low hills which encircle
Paris. On this 3rd platform, enclosed in glass, the
names of the places which can be seen are painted over |
each window. But it is better to ascend a few steps il
to the open platform above. The view extends over
80 kilometers. Of Paris itself, the view is remarkable,
and people who come to scoff remain to marvel.

PALAIS DU TROCADERO 7

This great building was built for the Universal Ex-
hibition of 1878. It is splendidly placed on rising
ground on the right bank of the Seine, and looks across
its own attractive gardens to the Champ de Mars.
Above the central structure, which contains a fine con-
cert hall, is poised Mercie’s statue of Fame. The
palace is named after the Trocadero Port, taken from
the Spanish in 1823.

Here can be found many fine casts, architectural
drawings and photographs, and many exhibits from
many countries.

 

MALMAISON

Home of Napoleon. 7 miles from Paris, near Rueil.
The Chateau de la Malmaison, which owes its name—
mala mansio, or mauvais gite—to its precarious posi-
tion during the Norman inroads, is of keen interest, as
it was the residence of the Empress Josephine and the
last house occupied by Napoleon of France. JosephinePA]
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252 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Bonaparte bought Malmaison, had it enlarged and re-
arranged and the gardens laid out with great distinc-
tion. During the Consulate, the Malmaison was the
center of a brilliant circle until 1802 when the growing
claims of state caused it to be less used, though always
the Empress continued to spend large sums of money
on the place she loved so well. It was to Malmaison
that she retired after her divorce, and there that she
died. Her tomb is in the Church of Rueil.

After the death of Josephine, Malmaison passed to
her son Eugene. Later Queen Marie-Christine of
Spain bought the property and she sold it to Napoleon
III. Afterwards it passed through the hands of sev-
eral owners before M. Daniel Osiris-Iffla bought it to
present to the nation. The whole of the chateau forms
a valuable exhibition of furniture of the First Empire,
the pieces seen at their best in the surroundings which
were natural to them.

VERSAILLES

Eleven miles from Paris. Originally Versailles was
a hunting-box of Louis XIII to which Louis XIV, the
real creator of Versailles, added and made the scene
of the celebrated fétes held in his youth. But the
growing power and the growing ambition of this king
made a larger stage necessary. He built the 3 facades
on the garden enclosing the chateau of Louis XIII.
Versailles is remarkable as being a building brought
into being almost for the glorification of one man.
Painters and sculptors vied with each other to producecreate ee eee eee ace

     
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
  
 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 253 i

in paint and stone cunning allusions to the “Roi
Soleil” (Louis XIV); and though there are remains
of the Versailles of Louis XIII, it is Louis XIV whose
brain conceived and carried out the idea of this great
palace which was to give him the space and oppor-
tunity for pomp and ceremony which he required. il

The Palace. Approaching the Palace from the
Place d’Armes, in front of the palace, the two build-
ings right and left will be noticed. Now used as bar-
racks, these buildings were the grand stable and the
little stable. Over 2,500 horses were housed here.
The gateway, which bears the emblems of Louis XIV,
a lyre and sun, are often repeated in the decoration
of his palace. Entering the palace many interesting
and marvelous things can be seen. The rooms of the
Dauphin and the Dauphine, containing portraits of
the 18th century. The Queen’s Staircase, adorned
with delightful groups in gilt. The Hall of the Queen’s
Guards. The Queen’s anteroom, where the king and
queen dined, au grand couvert—in public. The Queen’s
reception room where she gave audience. The Queen’s
Bedroom, an admirable specimen and type of the
decorative art of Louis XV’s day. The ceiling of this
room represents the 4 chief virtues of Queens—“Fi-
delity, Charity, Prudence and Generosity.” It was by
a small door in this room that Marie Antoinette es-
caped to the King’s rooms when the mob invaded the
palace.

Then there is the Galerie des Glaces where the
Peace Treaty of the last war was signed; the decora-

me tenes tobe RE eile Behe NRE A ents a MEY
siibs a a emit 6

Peak nf RS PRONE MTT Pe abe md te

et Re Te MT nae OPT NG oe HTS TNS
eretcasitiscnceeee et te

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CESEEAESEESEDSISESI ES REE TED DEADAe sts haheatseat Sacks beseseeeePsteeeeses bene.

254 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

tions of this magnificent gallery are most remarkable;
the ceiling represents triumphs of the reign of Louis
XIV, the King being conspicuous in his golden armor
and brown peruke. The lasting charm of the whole
effect is secured by the absolute harmony of the deco-
rative scheme, than which it is impossible to imagine
anything richer.

The Hall of Abundance holds many famous mili-
tary water colors and military pictures; also modern
pictures of the States General, the funeral of President
Carnot and other events. The Hall of Hercules, the
court ballroom of the 18th century. The Salon de
Mars.

GARDENS OF VERSAILLES

The gardens and Park of Versailles are not to be
seen quickly; the gardens, perfect examples of the
formal garden, deserve a leisurely visit.

The grand architectural lines of the Palace of Ver-
sailles are continued in its gardens. It was the same
mind that planned their arrangement and one can de-
tect in them the same thoughts and similar artistic
feelings. Here it is impossible even to suggest, for
lack of space, the brilliant fétes which took place,
under Louis XIV, Louis XV and Louis XVI. The
greatest sculptors of that day aided in beautifying the
gardens. In front of the main block of the palace lie
the two basins of water called the Parterre d’Eau.
The bronzes that surround them are the most impor-
tant bronzes in Europe. Here are the Steps of Latona,ee ae

  

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 255

the Fountain of the Dawn, Cabinets des Animaux and
the Fountain of Diana. The Fountain of the Pyramid,
justly considered one of the finest pieces of work in
the gardens. Here also the Bath of the Nymphs of
Diana, the Basin of Neptune, the Grove of the Domes,
and the Basin of Apollo. Behind the Basin of Apollo
is the Grand Canal, one arm of which touches the
Grand Trianon, a sheet of water devised by Louis XIV,
who kept thereon a fleet of pleasure-boats and gon-
dolas. And then, Basin of Saturn, and the Basin of
Bacchus. Ascertain the date when the great Fountains
play, and do not miss it. These, the most stupen-
dously magnificent Gardens of the world.

THE GRAND TRIANON

About a quarter of an hour’s walk from Versailles.
Here Louis XIV often came, but after his death the
Grand Trianon was little used until Louis XV gave it
to his wife Marie Leczinska and a botanical garden
was prepared.

The Little Trianon now usurped the favor bestowed
on the Grand Trianon which was little used until
Napoleon came thence for a week after his divorce
from Josephine. Afterwards he frequently visited the
chateau. Louis-Philippe also occupied the building.
Here at Grand Trianon stayed Mme. de Maintenon,
Mme. de Pompadour, Louis XIV, Louis XV and
Napoleon I.

The gardens of the Grand Trianon are beautiful.

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43 ape :

  
    
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
  
   
   
   
   
  

  

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

256

PETIT TRIANON

Near the Grand Trianon is the Petit Trianon, the
more interesting of the two buildings, because of its
association with Marie Antoinette. Given to Queen
Marie Antoinette, it rapidly became a spot to which
she turned with pleasure, to free herself there for a
time from the irksome restraints of the court. She
caused the charming gardens in the English style
which surround the Petit Trianon to be laid out and
the Hamlet was built for her to enable her to watch
the life of the families she placed there and to join her-
self, to a very modest extent, in the simple pleasures
it provided. Indeed, the fame of the Petit Trianon
comes from its association with this unhappy queen.

PLACE DE LA CONCORDE

Commenced in 1763. Here the Guillotine was
erected and in 1792-94 over 3,000 persons came here
to meet their death.

Louis XVI was executed Jan. 21, 1793, then Char-
lotte Corday. Marie Antoinette (October 16).
Robespierre. The Obelisk here, once stood in front
of a great Temple of Luxor in Egypt. Presented to
Louis Philippe in 1831. It is 75 feet high. The 2
buildings on the right were erected in 1762. The
first, now Hotel Crillon, most expensive Hotel in Paris.
The other is the Ministers de la Marine.PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 257

FONTAINEBLEAU

One of the really marvelous places to visit, just out-
side Paris. Go on a Bus, starting at American Ex-
press Co., or from Thomas Cook and Son’s. A 2 hour
drive part of the way through the remarkable Forests
of Fontainebleau where the ancient Kings used to
promenade, drive and shoot wild boar and deer. The
deer still remain and will come up to the side of your
car and eat out of your hand. A forest of 42,000
acres with the Seine running alongside. The beautiful
old Fontainebleau Palace, favorite home of Napoleon
I. Enter through The Coup “Adieux,” the scene of
Napoleon’s parting from his Old Guard on April 2oth,
1814, after his abdication. Here also upon his return
from Elba, he reviewed his troops before moving them
to Paris.

A Palace full of treasures, paintings, sculptures, and
furniture. The private apartments of Napoleon, his
bed, the table upon which he signed his abdication
in favor of his son, April 11, 1814. Also the beautiful
Salle du Conseil, Salle du Trone. The apartments of
Marie Antoinette, Her Boudoir, Music Room, Salons
of the Ladies in Waiting, The Library, Galerie de
Divine, Galerie des Ceres, Salons de Reception. The
Salon de Louis XIII in which the King was born in
1601. The apartments of Madame de Maintenon.
The bedroom of Anne of Austria and of Pope Pius VII,
who was a prisoner here from 1812 to 1814. Stroll
through the beautiful Gardens.

Miko y he mache oe sam taetdhe ie batt A ORE tm Do a
Subba hi ‘ > iy pees © een258 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

 

THE BATTLEFIELDS

Go in a Bus from The American Express Co. or
Thomas Cook and Son’s.

Belleau Wood, now changed to ‘‘Wood of the Ameri-
can Marine,” in honor of the two regiments of the
Second Division of the United States Marines who
finally captured the position in June, 1918. A great
inspirational experience, this trip to Belleau Wood.
Over the Marne, through Chateau-Thierry.

You hear the thrilling story of how all the Paris
taxicabs were commandeered and thousands of troops
were rushed to the Marne in the dead of the night.
In Belleau Wood you see some of the old gas masks,
shells and guns.

The ruined villages of Bouresches. Captured by
the Marines on June 6, 1918. The famous Hill 204.
Through Vaux the scene of the brilliant engagements
of the Ninth and Twenty-third American Divisions.
The dramatic entry of the American troops, during
the second drive of the Germans to the Marne.

Chateau-Thierry. Where American Machine Gun-
ners in June, 1918, raked the river and the bridges
continuously for four days and nights. The ‘War
Memorial” an American institution. Established in
the old Hotel l’Elephant to give help of any kind to
the people of all the surrounding territory. The Marne
Valley as far as Jaulgonne where, in 1918, the enemy,
during their famous “Place Offensive,” crossed thePARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 259

Marne, to be stopped and repulsed on the southern
slope by the American 28th and 30th Divisions.

The grave of Quentin Roosevelt at Chamery.

Rheims. Next to Paris, the most famous city in
France. The systematic and vicious bombardment of
the Rheims Cathedral throughout the war shocked the
entire world. Rheims also the center of the Cham-
pagne trade.

Verdun. In 1916 the most terrible fighting of the
entire war. The name “Verdun” and the French Sol-
dier’s watchword, “They shall not pass,”’ have become
immortal. In five months the Germans were able to
push forward but eight kilometers and to do that it
cost them half a million men.The “Sentence” Has
Been Served

And now if you have visited all the wonderful, his-
toric old places on the pages preceding, you have taken
your “Sentence” like a man—

But it wasn’t such dire “Punishment,” was it?

Be honest—

Admit—

It was marvelous, beautiful, inspiring—

And you wouldn’t have missed it for worlds.

Paris and its Treasures—

It made you think.

Now you know something.

You can converse, you can reminisce, you can live
it all over, again and again. Long after sour Jazz
and wild women are forgotten.

You might have been tricked; the Author might
have broken faith with you in bringing in these His-
toric Places, but how could he help it? How could
he let you leave Paris without visiting such lovely,
hallowed scenes, and drinking deep of their romance
and poetry?

Ah! But let us not forget something else—most
important—

THe NExt Few Paces Must BE STuDIED VERY,
VERY CAREFULLY.

NOW YOU ARE TO GET—fore emanate eie trate

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
    

YOUR FRENCH LESSONS
(Take This Seriously)

On the following pages you will find a quick
“Catch-as-catch-can” course in French. Give it half
an hour a day for a month. Make yourself do this.
Study on the boat going over. Or get into it the very
day that this book falls into your hands. Paris will
mean so much more to you if you have a smattering of
French. If you memorize 1o phrases or words each
day, it will be a great help. Learn to ask directions, to
shop; to order your food in French. Learn to say:
“How do you do”; “You are looking fine”; “It is a
nice day”; “Will you have a drink with me?” All
these little speeches of courtesy are essential in Paris.
And “the numbers.” You must tell every Taxi Driver
where you wish to go in French. He will not under-
stand “23” or “59” or “172.” You must say: “Vingt
Trois” (23) or “Cinquante Neuf” (59) or “Cent Soi-
xante Douze” (172). And in a real Paris restaurant
(you will not want to go where all the other Americans
go, all the time)—the waiters speak only French and
the Menus are printed only in French.

Yes—Better take the time to learn a little French.

Or—Keep this book handy while you are in Paris
and copy from it as occasions arise.ips

TP h tyes et
reps hese

sbEPS bea bbes cher toeetesteeeSiGi eset A becdseral rete estsees rer eeessiestsr ess tateet eres SeSSsesieeertsesveren)

Here are some everyday expressions.

YOU MUST LEARN

     
 

TO

SPEAK FRENCH

Prop your-

self up in bed every morning for an hour before you
get up and memorize them.

EVERYDAY EXPRESSIONS

(And you will need every one of them)

Good morning.
Good afternoon.
Good night.

Last night.

This evening.

I want.

Give me.

Bring me.

If you please.
Excuse me.
Thanks very much.
Come here.

How are you?

Very well, thanks.
Wait a moment.
At once.

What do
want?

you

Bonjour.

Bonne nuit.
Hier soit.
Ce soir.
J’ai besoin.
Donnez-moi.
Apportez-moi.
S’il vous plait.
Excusez-moi.
Merci beaucoup.
Venez ici.
Comment
vous?
Tres bien, merci.

allez-

Attendez
ment.

un mo-

Tout de suite.
Que voulez-vous?

262

Boh (ng) zhoor

bun nwee
ee’ air-Swahr
se(r) swahr
zhay b’zwa(ng)
don-nay mwah
ah-pohr-tay-mwah
see-voo-play
ex-koo-say-mwah
mair-see boh koo
ve’nay-zee-see
kom-mau (ng)-
tahl-lay voo
tray bee-a(ng)
mair-see
attau (ng) day-zu
(ng) momau
(ng)
too de(r) suite
ke(r) voolay-vooListen to me.
Carry this.
Be careful.

What is it?
Hurry up.
What is the time?

Follow me.

Go away (clear
out).

Give me_ some
more.

Too much.

I do not under-
stand.

Do you
stand?

How much?

under-

Here it is.
I do not like.
I must go.
Allow me.

Come in.
Don’t mention it.

Take a seat.
Don’t disturb
yourself.

It doesn’t matter.

I beg your pardon.

PARIS WITH THE LID

 

 

Ecoutez-moi
Portez ceci
Faites attention.

Qu’est-ce que?

Dépechéz-vous.

Quelle heure est-
il?

Suivez-moi.

Allez-vous-en.

Donnez m’en en-
core.

Trop.

Je ne comprends
pas.

Comprenez-vous?

Combien?

Le voici.
Je n’aime pas.
Je dois partir.

Permettez-moi.

Entrez.

Il n’y a pas
quoi.

Veuillez vous
seoir.

Ne vous dérangez
pas.

Cela ne fait rien.

de

as-

Je vous demande
pardon.

  

LIFTED 263
ay-koo-tay-mwah
pohrtay se(r)-see
fate-zaht-tau (ng)
-see-oh (ng)
k’ess ke(r) say
day-pay-shay-voo
kell eur ay-teel?

swee-vay-mwah

ahl-lay-voo-zau
(ng)

donnay-mau (ng) -
nau (ng)-kor

troh

zhe(r)ne(r) kom-
prau(ng) pah

kom(ng)-pren-ay
voo

kom (ng)-bee’a
(ng)?

le(r) vwah-see

zhe(r) name pah

zhe(r) dwah par-
teer

pair-met-tay-
mwah

au(ng)-tray

eel nee-ah pah de
(r) kwah

veuhyai voo-zah-
swahr

ne(r) voo day-rau
(ng)-zhay pah

s‘lah ne(r) fay-
ree-a(ng)

zhe(r) voo de(r)-

mau (ng) d’-

pahr-doh (ng)264

I am in a hurry.
I am ill.

Send for a doctor.

That will do
nicely.
Good-by.

Your health.

I should like to see
you again.

I am pleased to
see you.

Can I offer you

some refresh-

ments?
Certainly, with

pleasure.

I am fortunate to
have met you.

It is very cold to-
day.

It is very warm
today.

This is very beau-
tiful.

PARIS WITH THE LID

    
    
  
     
  
   
    
    
  
  
  
  
  
   
  
 
 
 
   
   
   
  
 
   
   
  
  

   

Je suis pressé.
Je suis malade.

Envoyez chercher
un docteur.

Cela fera bien ]’af-
faire.

Au revoir.

A votre santé.

Je voudrais vous
revoir.

Je suis tres heu-
reux de vous
volr.

Permettez-moi de
vous offrir quel-
ques rafrai-
chissements.

Certainement, avec
plaisir.

J’ai beaucoup de
chance de vous
avoir recontré.

Il fait trés froid
aujourd’hui

Il fait trés chaud
aujourd’hui

C’es trés joli

LIFTED

 

zhe(r) swee pres-
say

zhe(r) swee mah-
lahd

au (ng)-vwah-yea
shair - shay - ru
(ng) doctur.

s‘lah fe-rah bee’a
(ng) laugh-fare.

oh re(r)-vwahr

ah votr’ sau(ng)
tay

zhe(r) voo-dray
voo re(r) vwarh

zhe(r) swee tray-
zeur-re(r) de(r)
voo vwahr

pair-met-tay-
mwah _ de(r)
voo - zof - freer
kell-ke(r) rah-
frai - shees - mau
(ng)

sair-tehn-mau
(ng) ahveck
play-zeer

zhay boh-koo de
(r) shau(ng)s
de(r) voo-zah-
vwahr

eel fay tray frwah
oh-zhoor-dwee

eel fay tray shoh
oh -sho zhoor-
dwee

Say tray zholeeGive me your ad-
dress.

Thanks ever so
much for your
hospitality.

I have enjoyed
your company
very much.

Meet me at— at—
o’clock.

I thank you for
your courtesy.

 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Donnez-moi votre
adresse.

Merci beaucoup de
votre aimable
réception.

J’ai été charmé de
votre aimable
société.

Venez me trouver

a— a— heures.

Je vous remercie
beaucoup’ de
votre amabilite.

Where is the W.C.? Ou est le water-

Give me a match,

please.

closet?
Donnez-moi des

alumettes, s'il

vous plait.

AT THE TAILOR

I want my clothes pressed.
Je voudrais faire donner un coup de fer 4 mes vétements.

Zhe(r) voodray fare don-nay-ru(ng) koo de(r) fair ah may

vailmau(ng).

I want them tomorrow morning.
Jen ai besoin demain matin.
Zhau(ng)-nay bz’wah(ng) de(r)ma(ng) mah-ta(ng).

I want these clothes washed.
Je désire faire blanchir ce linge.

Zhe(r) day-zeer fare blau(ng)-sheer se(r) lahnzh.

 

265

don-nay mwah
votr’ ah-dress

mair-see boh-koo
de(r) votr’ ay-
mah-bl’ray-sep-
see-oh (ng)

zhay ay-tay shahr-
may de(r) votr’
ay-mah-bl’  so-
see-et-tay

ve-nay me(r) troo-
vay-rah — ah—
eur

zhe(r) voo_ re-
mair-see-boh-
koo de(r) votr’
ah-mah-beel-ee-
tay

oo-ay le(r) water-
closet?

don-nay mwah
day-sal-leumett
seel voo play

AT THE LAUNDRY

shisha teen re ihton eter akhe.
subi 0 sii

 

 

 

Pn sn se =266 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

I must have them back in . . . days.
Jen ai besoin dans . . . jours.
Zhau(ng)-nay bz-wah(ng) dau(ng) . . . zhoor.

I want them done as soon as possible.
Je voudrais l’avoir aussitot que possible.
Zhe(r) voo-dray lah-vwar oh-see-toh ke(r) pos-see-bl’,

When can I have them back?
Quand puis-je l’avoir?
Kau(ng) pweezh lah-vwahr.

This is not mine.
Ce n’est pas a moi.
Se(r) nay pah-zah mwah.

There are some pieces missing.
Il y manque plusieurs choses.
Eel ee mau(ng)k pleu-z’yair shows.

They are very badly done.
Ils sont tresmal blanchis.
Eel soh(ng) tray-mahl blau(ng)-shee.

I do not speak French.
Je ne parle pas francais.
Zhe(r) ne(r) pahrl pah frau(ng)-say.

Can any one here speak English?
Est-ce que quelqu’un parle anglais ici?
Ace ke(r) kell-kun pahrl au(ng)-glay-zee-see.

I do not understand.
Je ne comprends pas.
Zhe(r) ne(r) kom-prau(ng) pah.

I will return later.
Je reviendrai plus tard.
Zhe(r) revee’ ahn-dray pleu tar.I will wait.
Je vais attendre.

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Zhe(r) vay-zat-tau(ng) dr’.

 

267

WHEN YOU ARE IN A FRENCH RESTAURANT

You will be out of luck, if these words and phrases you

do not memorize.
in French. Not
essentials:

To eat.

I am hungry.

I am thirsty.

Serve me.

Will you bring me
Dessert?

Bring me the bill.
That is not cor-

rect.
All right.

Manger.

Jai faim.

Jai soif.

Servez mol.

Voulez vous m’ap-
porter le Des-
sert?

Apportez-moi |’ad-
dition.

Cela n’est pas
juste.

C’est bien.

HOW TO ORDER

Every restaurant in Paris prints its menu
a word of English. Here are the

mawn-zhay
jay fa

jay swaf
sair-vay-mwah

(s'lah nay pa)

say bee’a (ng)

(What the Different Eatables Are in French)

Almonds
Apples
Apricots
Artichokes
Asparagus
Banana

Beef (steak)
Beef (roast)
Beans (French)

Amandes
Pommes
Abricots
Artichauts
Asperges
Banane

Boeuf (bifteck)
Boeuf roti
Haricots verts

ah-mau(ng)d
pomm
ah-bree-koh
ahr-tee-show
ahs-spairzh
bah-nahn
beuhf

beuhf roh-tee
ah-rekoh verr

 

PEER PETIT

psd ie se PRs Cb Rainn et on ah OtT.
enn

   
  
 
 
 
  
  
   
  
   
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
   
  
 
 
  
  
  
 
  
  
 
   

ey yy Peewee mad ys kee.Toretrrre

268 PARIS WITH THE LID

Beans
Beer (English)
Beer (German)

Biscuit
Boiled
Bottle (half)

Brandy

Bread (brown)
Bread (fresh)
Breakfast

Broth
Butter
Cabbage
Cake
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery (raw)
Cheese
Cherries
Chicken
Chop

Cider
Claret

Cocoa
Cod
Coffee (pot)

Cold

Crab
Cucumber
Cutlet
Dessert
Dinner

    
   
 
 
 
 
  
   
  
  
  
  
   
   
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
    
   
   
   
   
    
   
   
   
   
   

Haricots blancs
Biére (anglaise)
Biere (allemande)

Biscuit
Bouilli
Bouteille (demi)

Cognac

Pain (bis)
Pain (frais)
Petit déjeuner

Bouillon
Beurre
Chou
Gateau
Carottes
Chou-fleur
Céleri (cru)
Fromage
Cerises
Poulet
Cotelette
Cidre

Vin de Bordeaux

Cacao
Morue
Café (cafetiere)

Froid
Crabe
Concombre
Cotelette
Dessert
Diner

 

 

LIFTED

ah-re-koh blau
(ng)

bee’air au(ng)-
glayz

bee’air ahl-mau
(ng)d

bis-kwee

boo-yee

boo-tay-ye(r)
de’me

koh-n’yahk

pa(ng) bee

pa(ng) fray

P’tee day-zheun-
nay

boo-yoh (ng)

beurr

shoo

gah-toh

kar-rott

shoo-fleur

say-lay-ree creu

froh-mahzh

se(r)-reez

poo-lay

coat-lett

seedr’

vah (ng) de(r)
bohr-doh

Kah-kow’o

moh-reu

kay-fay (kahf’t-
yair

frwah

krab

ko (ng)-kohm-br’

coat-lett

day-sair

dee-nayDish

Duck

Eggs (boiled)
Eggs (poached)
Eggs (fried)

Fish

Gin

Glass (tumbler)
Glass (wine)
Goose
Grapes
Gravy
Grilled
Haddock
Ham

Hare
Herring
Ice-cream
Iced

Jam

Jelly

Kidney
Knife (large)
Knife (small)
Lamb

Lean

Lemon
Lemonade
Lettuce
Liver
Lobster
Lunch
Macaroni
Mackerel
Marmalade
Mayonnaise
Meat

Melon

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Plat

Canard

(Eufs (cuits)
(Eufs (pochés)
(Eufs (sur le plat)

Poisson
Genievre
Verre
Verre a vin
Oie
Raisins
Jus

Grillé
Haddock
Jambon
Liévre
Hareng
Glace
Frappé
Confiture
Gelée
Rognon
Couteau
Petit couteau
Agneau
Maigre
Citron
Limonade
Laitue
Foie
Homard
Déjeuner
Macaroni
Maquereau
Marmelade
Mayonnaise
Viande
Melon

269

plah

Kahn-are

eu(r) kwee

eu(r) posh-ay

eu(r) seur le(r)
plah

pwah-soh(ng)

zhe(r)-nee-ayvr’

vair

vair ah vah(ng)

wah

rai-za(ng)

zhous

gree’ yea

zhau (ng)-bo(ng)
lee-ayvr’

ah-rau (ng)
glass

frah-pay
kohn-fee teur
zhay-lay
roh(ng)-yoh(ng)
koo-toh

p’ tee-koo-toh
ahn-yoh

mayer’

see-troh (ng)
lee-mohn-ahd
lay-teu

fwah

oh-mahr
day-zheun-nay
mack-ahrohn-ee
mahk-roh
marr-me-lahd
may’ yon-ayz
vee-au (ng)d
me(r)lohn270 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Milk Lait

Mineral water Eau minérale

Mustard Moutarde

Mutton Mouton

Napkin Serviette

Omelette (plain) Omelette

Omelette Omelette aux fines

(savory) herbes

Orange Orange

Oysters Hiitres

Pancake Crépe

Peach Péche

Pear Poire

Peas (green) Petits pois

Pepper (cayenne) Poivre (rouge)

Pickles Pickles

Pie Paté

Pineapple Ananas

Plate Assiette

Plum. Prune

Potatoes (boiled) | Pommes de terre a
anglaise

Potatoes (fried) Pommes de terre
frites

Potatoes (mashed) Pommes de terre
en purée

Pudding Pouding

Punch Punch

Rabbit Lapin

Radish (horse) Raifort

Radishes Radis

Raspberries Framboises

Rice Riz

Rissole Rissole

Roast Roti

Salad Salade

Salmon Saumon

Salt Sel

 

 

lay

oh mee-nay-rahl

moo-tahrd

moo-toh(ng)

Sair-vee-ett

Om-lett

Om-lett-oh-feen
zerb

oh-rau(ng)zh

wee-tr’

kraype

paysh

pwahr

p’tee-pwah

pwah-vr’ roozh

pah-tay

ah-nah-nah

ah-see-ett

proone

pomm de(r) terr
ah l’au(ng)-
glayz

pomm de(r) terr
freet

pomm de(r) terr
au(ng) peu-ray

poo-ding

punch

lah-pa(ng)

ray-fohr

rah-dee

frau (ng) -bwahz

ree

ree-sohl

roh-tee

sah-lahd

soh-moh (ng)

sellSst
Cl Saieaee ca est eetoses be
is tFiea beta bes iertics

Sandwich
Sauce (mint)
Sausage

Sole

Soup (clear)
Soup (thick)

Spinach
Spoon (large)

Spoon (small)
Strawberries
Sugar

Supper
Sweet
Sweetbread
Syphon
Table
Tablecloth
art

Tea

Tender
Toast
Tongue
Tough

Trout
Turbot
Turkey
Turnip
Turtle
Underdone
Veal
Vegetables
Vinegar
Water

Water (iced)
Water (boiling)

PARIS WITH THE LID

Sandwich
Sauce (menthe)
Saucisse

Sole

Potage (clair)
Potage (epais)

Epinard
Grande cuiller

Petite cuiller
Fraises
Sucre
Souper
Sucre

Riz de veau
Siphon
Table
Nappe
Tarte

The
Tendre
Pain grillé
Langue
Dur

Truite
Turbot
Dindon
Navet
Tortue
Saignant
Veau
Légumes
Vinaigre
Eau

Eau glacée
Eau bouillante

 

   

      
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
    
   
   
   
   
  
   
  
 
   
    
  
 
 
   

LIFTED 271

sand-vitch

sohss (mau(ng)t)

soh-seece

sohl

pot-tahzh (clare)

pot-tahzh (ay-
pay )

ay-pee-nahr

grau(ng)d kwee-
yal

p’teet kwee-yai

frayz

sookr’

SoO-pay

sookray

ree de(r) voh

see-foh (ng)

tah-bl’

napp

tahrt

tay

tau (ng)-dr’

pa(ng) gree-yea

laung

dour

troo-ee’t

teur-boh

da(ng)-hoh (ng)

nah-vay

tor-teu

sai(ng)-yau(ng)

voh

lay-geum

vee-nay-gr’

oh

oh glah-say

oh-boo-ee-yau

(ng )t

 

Oe ThE tees Me kePEF en sammy te A Te =272
Whiskey (Irish)
Whiskey (Scotch)

Whiskey (Ameri-
can)

Whiting

Wing

Wine (red)

Wine (white)

Wine list

  

Whiskey (irlan-
dais)

Whiskey (écossais)

Whiskey (améri-
cain)

Merlan

Aile

Vin (rouge)

Vin (blanc)

Carte des vins

   
     
  
   
   
   

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

whis-kee-eer-lau
(ng)-day

whis-kee ay-koss-
ay

whis-kee ah-mair-
ee-ka(ng)

mair-lah (ng)

ell

vah(ng) roozh

vah(ng) blau(ng)

kahrt day vah(ng)

YOU GO SHOPPING

You will want to say:

Show me
What is the price
of this?

Your prices are
very high

What is your low-
est price?

Have you nothing
better?

Have you any
cheaper?

Won’t you reduce
the price a little?

I will think it over
and call again

Montrez-moi

Ouel est le prix
de ceci?

Vos prix sont tres
élevés

Quel est votre plus
bas prix?

N’avez-vous rien
de meilleur?

En avez-vous de
meilleur marche?

Ne pouvez - vous
pas faire une
petite reduc-
tion?

Je vais reflechir et
je reviendrai

montray-mwah
kell ay le (r) pree
de (r) se (r)-see
voh pree soh (ng)
tray-zel-vay
Kell ay vot’r pleu
bah pree
navvy-voo ree’ a
(ng) de (r)
may-yur
(ng) -nah-vai-
voo de (r) may-
yur mar-shay
ne(r) poo-vay-voo

au

pay fare eun
p’teet ray-dook-
zee-oh (ng)

Zhe(r) vay ray-

flay-sheer ay zhe
(r) re(r) - vee-
ah(ng) -drayI will take them— je vais—le—pren-

it—with me

Send them to this Veuillez les envoy-

address

PARIS WITH THE LID

dre avec moi

er a cette
adresse

     
  
  
 
  
  
 
 

LIFTED 273

Zhe(r) vay—le(r)
—prau(ng) dray
ah-veck mwah

veuh - yai lay-zau
(ng) vwah-yea
ah sett ah-dress

THE CLOTHES YOU WEAR

Gentlemen:

Coats (silk)
Trousers (pants)

Waistcoats

Pyjamas
Cuffs (pair)

Collars
Handkerchiefs
Gloves
Neckties
Socks

Shirts
Drawers
Night-shirts

Singlet
Bands

Ladies:

Shirt oe
Blouses
Skirts
Underskirts
Stockings
Chemises

Habits (soie)
Pantalons

Gilets

Pyjamas

Paires de man-
chettes

Faux cols

Mouchoirs

Gants

Cravates

Paires de chaus-
settes

Chemises

Calecons

Chemises de nuit

Gilet
Ceintures

Blouses
Jupes
Jupons
Bas
Chemises

 

ah-bee (swah)

pau (ng)-tah-loh
(ng)

zhee-lay

pee-zhah-mah

pair de(r) mau
(ng) -shett

foh-kol

moo-shwahr

gau (ng)

krah-vaht

pair de(r) sho-sett

sh’meeze

kahl’soh (ng)

sh’meeze de (r)
nwee

zhee-lay

sa(ng)-ture

blooze

zhupe
zheu-poh (ng)
bah

sh’meeze

  

   
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
  
  
 
   
  
  
    
   

 

aa pega agrert <8 daneyhe te
we mead elie

eh EPA in RASS he ONE LETTS oh BEE Rhames APT ot ge
. bie aie . : oid274 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Drawers Pantalons pau (ng) -tah-
loh(ng)

Combinations Combinaisons kohm-bee-nais-
oh(ng)

Night-dresses Chemises de nuit sh’meeze de(r)
nwee

Vests Camisoles kah-mee-zohl

Corset-covers Cache-corset cahsh-korr-say

Napkins Serviettes Sair-vee-ett

AND THESE WORDS WILL COME IN HANDY

After Apres ah-pray
Also Aussi oh-see
Always Toujours too-zhoor
Another Un autre a(ng)nohir
Bad Mauvais moh-vay
Bank Banque bau(ng)k
Before Avant ah-van (ng)
Black Noir noo’ahr
Blanket Couverture koo-vair-tuer
Boat Bateau bah-toe
Brush Brosse bross
Cab Voiture vwah-tuer
Cab-driver Cocher koh-shay
Camera Camera kah-may-rah
Cheap Bon marché boh(ng) marr’
shay
Cigar Cigare see-gahr
Cigarette Cigarette see-gah-rett
Church Eglise ay-gleez
Closed Fermé fair-may
Dear Cher shair
Difficult Difficile dee-fee-seel
Dirty Sale sahl
Easy Facile fah’sill
Enough Assez ah-say

Envelopes Envelopes an(ng)v’lopEverywhere
Evening
Flowers
Fur
Good
Hat

Hill
House
Hot

Ice

Ink

Kiss
Lake
Lavatory
Light
Long
Matches
Mirror
Moon
Moonlight
More
Museum
Needle
Never
Night
No
Nothing
Now

Nurse
Open
Overcoat

Paper (letter)

Pen

Pencil
Photograph
Picture

Pin

 

 

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Partout
Soir

Fleurs
Fourrure
Bon
Chapeau
Colline
Maison
Chaud
Glace
Encre
Baiser

Lac
Cabinet
Lumiére
Long
Allumettes
Mirroir
Lune
Clair-de-lune
Encore
Musée
Aiguille
Jamais
Nuit

Non

Rien
Maintenant

Infirmiére
Ouvert
Pardessus

Papier-a-lettre

Plume
Crayon
Portrait
Tableau
Epingle

 

pahr-too
swahr
fleur
foo’reur
boh(ng)
shap-poh
kol’lyn
May-zau (ng)
show
glass
au(ng)-kr’
bay-zhay
lack
kah-bee-nay
leu-mee’ air
loh(ng)
ahl-leu-met
meer-whar
leun
clair-de(r) leun
au(ng)core
meu-zhay
ay-gweeay
zhah-may
nwee
noh
ree’a(ng)
ma(ng) -teh-
nau (ng)
a(ng)fear-me’ air
oo’vair
pahr-deu-seu
pah’pee’ay ah
lettr’
pleu’m
kray’oh(ng)
pohr’ tray
tah’bleau
epp-angle276 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

Pipe
Police
Post Office

Quick

Rain

It rains
Railway station
Shoes

Short

Silk

Slippers

Soap

Soon

Stamps (postage)

Steamer
String
Suspenders
Table
Table-cloth
That
There
These-Those
This
Thread
Tobacco
To-day
To-morrow
Too much
To-night
Umbrella
Under
Very
Waiter
Water
When
Where
White

Pipe
Police
Bureau de Poste

Vite

Pluie

Il pleut
Gare
Souliers
Court
Soie
Pantoufles
Savon
Bientot
Timbre de poste

Bateau
Ficelle
Bretelles
Table
Nappe
Cela

Le bas
Ces

Ceci

Fil
Tabac
Aujourd’hue
Demain
Trop

Ce soir
Parapluie
Sous
trés
Garcon
Eau
Quand
Ou
Blanc

peep

poh-leece

beur-oh de(r)
pohst

veet

pleu’ee

ill pleu

gahr

soul’ yay

koor

swah

pau (ng)-too’ fil

sah’voh (ng)

bee-a(ng)-toh

tahm-br’ de(r)
post

ba-toh

fee-sell

bro-tell

tahbl’

nahpp

s’lah

lah bah

Say

se(r)-see

fill

tah’bah

oh-zhoor-dwee

de(r)-ma(ng)

troh

se (r) swahr

par-ah-plwee

soo

tray

gahr-soh (ng)

oh

kauh(ng)
00
blau(ng)PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 277

Why Pourquoi poor-quah

With Avec ah-veck
Weather (good) Beau temps beau’tau (ng)
Weather (bad) Mauvais temps moh-vay-tau (ng)
Without Sans sau(ng)

Yes Oui wee

Yesterday Hier ee’ air

LEARN HOW TO COUNT IN FRENCH

You must learn your numbers. Most essential. When
you inquire the price of anything, the answer comes to you,
in French. Nothing is so important in Paris as to be able
to talk and understand ‘“‘figures.”

The French numeral system sounds difficult but you can
learn it. Half an hour’s practice a day.

CARDINAL NUMBERS

I un u(ng)

2 deux deuh

3 trois trwah

4 quatre kahtr’

5 cing sa(ng)k

6 Six seece

7 sept sett

8 huit weet

9 neuf neuff
IO dix deece
II onze oh(ng)z
12 douze dooze
13 treize trayz
14 quatorze kah-torz
15 quinze ka(ng)z
16 seize sayz
17 dix-sept dee-sett
18 dix-huit deez-weet

4
Se
+ ih i . :

FAA a ER TT PEN Het ak ns meraat: | apse
21a

  

19
20
21

22
30
31
32
40
50
60
70
q 80
go

100
IOI
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
goo
1,000
2,000
1,000,000

  
  
   
 
  

The 1st
2nd

3rd

ofa tthPOr PSS Es EL es Rees ps Stree MSE RS LEDERER ESE RES ER Str rif rersietrreeritirsrreeererities

PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

dix-neuf
vingt
vingt-et-un

vingt-deux
trente
trente-et-un
trente-deux
quarante
cinquante
soixante
soixante-dix
quatre-vingts
quatre-vingt-dix

cent

cent un
deux cents
trois cents
quatre cents
cing cents
six cents
sept cents
huit cents
neuf cents
mille

deux mille
un million

   
 
 
  
 
 
 
   
  
  
 
  
  
  
  
  
   
  
   
  
  
  
   
  
   
 
  
 
  
 
 

deez-neuff
vah (ng)
vah (ng) -tay-
u(ng)
vah(ng) deuh
trau(ng)t
trau (ng) tay-u(ng)
trau(ng)t deuh
kah-rau(ng)t
sa(ng)-kau(ng)t
swasau(ng)t
swasau (ng) -deece
kahtr’vah(ng)
kahtr’vah (ng)
deece
sau (ng)
sau(ng)tu(ng)
deuh sau(ng)
trwah sau(ng)
kahtr’sau (ng)
sa(ng)k sau(ng)
see sau(ng)
sett sau(ng)
wee sau(ng)
neuff sau(ng)
meel
deuh meel
u(ng)meel’
yoh (ng)

ORDINAL NUMBERS

le premier
le deuxieme

le troisieme

le quatrieme

 

le(r) prem’yea

le(r) deuh-zee-
aim

le(r) trwah-zee-
aim

le(r) kah-tree-aimThe sth
6th
7th
8th
oth

roth
11th
12th
20th
21st
22nd
30th
4oth
soth
tooth
1,00oth
Once
Twice
Thrice
Four times
A quarter
A half
A third
A fifth

 

PARIS WITH THE LID

le cinquieme
le sixieme

le septieme
le huitieme
le neuvieme

le dixieme
le onzieme

le douzieme
le vingtieme

le vingt-et-unieme
le vingt-deuxieme
le trentieme

le quarantieme

le cinquantieme
le centieme

le millieme

  

LIFTED 279

le(r) sa(ng)-kee-
aim

le(r) see-zee-aim

le(r) set-tee-aim

le(r) wee-tee-aim

le(r) ne(r)-vee-
aim

le(r) dee-zee-aim

le(r) oh(ng)-zee-
aim

le(r) do6é-zée-aim

le(r) vah(ng)-tee-
aim

le(r) vah(ng)-tay-
eunee-aim

le(r) vah(ng)-
deuh-zee-aim

le(r) trau(ng)-
tee-aim

le(r) kah-rau(ng)-
tee-aim

le(r) sa(ng)-
kau (ng) -tee-aim

le(r) sau(ng)-tee-
aim

le(r) meel-ee-aim

COLLECTIVE NUMBERS

une fois
deux fois
trois fois
quatre fois
un quart

la moitie

un tiers

un cinquieme

eun fwah
deuh fwah
trwah fwah
kahtr’fwah
u(ng) kahr

lah mway-tee-ay
u(ng) tee-air
u(ng) sa(ng)-
kee-aim

   
   
  
  
  
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
    
   
  
 
   
 
  
 
  
  
  
 
  
   
   

sane pgsTepRPERISUYPUPRENNERaRARRIReNNSER eNO
+ : -

Meee RS MO Ow AT Tet280 PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED

An eighth
A couple
Double
Singly

A pair
A dozen
A half dozen

A score

Sunday
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday

January
February
March
April

May

June

July
August
September
October
November
December

Tyota tha vet Pode pELESpESEE DS § REFER ESERS EDS EE EST SERED SEsEST os Pee) Petsa toes Pets st ese seeEa betseeseeeeee

un huitieme
un couple
double
separement

Une paire
une douzaine
Une demi-douzaine

Une vingtaine

    
  
  
 
 
  
  
 
   

 

u(ng) wee-tee-aim
u(ng) koopl’
doo-bl’
say-pah-ray-
mau (ng)
eun pair
eun doo-zain
eun de’mee-doo-
zain
eun vah(ng)-tain

DAYS OF THE WEEK

Dimanche
Lundi
Mardi
Mercredi
Jeudi
Vendredi
Samedi

THE MONTHS

Janvier
Fevrier
Mars
Avril

Mai

Juin
Juillet
Aout
Septembre
Octobre
Novembre
Decembre

dee-mau (ng) ’sh
luh (ng) -dee
marr-dee
mair’kr-dee
zheu-dee
vau(ng)-dr’dee
sahm/’dee

zhau(ng)’vee-ay
fay-vree-ay
mahrz

ah-vreel

may

zhoo-ah (ng)
zhwee-ay

ah’oo
sep-taum(g)-br’
oc’ tohbr’
noh-vaum(g) br’
day-saum (g) br’PARIS WITH THE LID LIFTED 281

THE SEASONS

Spring Le printemps le(r) prah (ng)-

tau(ng)
Summer L’ete lay-tay if
Autumn L’automne loh-tonn F
Winter L’hiver lee-vairr i

And there will be other things you will want to know
how to say in French. Send for Mademoiselle Marthe
Charlot. A great, little French teacher who will come and
give you your French lessons at your hotel.

Her address: 28 Rue Legendre.
Her telephone: Carnot 5099.

 

Write down those things you need to say and can’t
Send for Mlle. Charlot and she will give it to you properly.

 sdieeetinetnaleaiainnatemeentats aatehetmameeiand

  
   

Ce eeS{La Pee PadepeYeieeehd Dati aees eet. Pes Peseeees Bee eoeeeee es ete

 
    
   
   
  
   
  
  
    
 
  

ALDERMAN LIBRARY

The return of this book is due on the date
indicated below

DUE | DUE

 

Usually books are lent out for two weeks, but
there are exceptions and the borrower should
note carefully the date stamped above. Fines
are charged for over-due books at the rate of
five cents a day; for reserved books there are
special rates and regulations. Books must be
presented at the desk if renewal is desired.

L-lWOODWARD & LOTHROP
WASHINGTON, D. C.

! 12-2-26-100M

DX GOO Seb 455

saris

  

RNG SET aaa