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raeORIGINAL LETTERS
FROM INDIAORIGINAL LETTERS.
FROM INDIA

(1779-1815)

Mrs. ELIZA FAY

With Introductory and Terminal Notes

BY

EK. M. FORSTER
Author of “A Passage to India”

 

New York
HARCOURT, BRACE AND COMPANYCOPYRIGHT, 1925, BY
E. M. FORSTER

PRINTED IN THE U.S. A. BY
THE QUINN & BODEN COMPANY
RAHWAY, N. J.CONTENTS

PAGE

I. InrRopuctory Notes sy E. M. Forster we foe 7
Manuscript of the Letters 7 SE ieee eae 7
Editions of the Letters. : ; 7
Mrs. Fay’s Career. 3 set as 9
Her Style. Her Character . . . . 13
The Historical Background . . . . .~ 36

1. The French War . ; : ; : : 2-16
2. Hyder Ali... eee te 317
Calcutta in 1780 ; .. wy oe [1S
1. History . ; uo. oh eS
2. Society -. . : : 20
3. Topography . : 4 © 22
The Devis Portrait 24
II. FacsrmiLe or Mrs. Fay’s Portrait sy A. W. Devig

Frontispiece

III. Oricinat Lerrers From Inp1ia By Mrs. Fay, REPRINTED
FROM THE First EpitTIon oF 1817 . : Seg

IV. Turminat Notes sy E. M. Forster . . 289he

er nsINTRODUCTORY NOTES

Exiza Fay is a work of art. But she was also a historical
character, who wielded and resumed a pen, and from that
point of view some brief notes may be acceptable; the
reader can be trusted to forget them as soon as he enters
her tremendous presence and gazes upon her prepotent
form. (See Frontispiece. )

MANUSCRIPT OF THE LETTERS

She died in Calcutta, in 1816, and her MSS. were prob-
ably destroyed there after her death. As arranged for pub-
lication, they consisted of (i.) twenty-three letters to her
family, covering the period from April 1779 to February
1783. (ii.) Letters composed at Blackheath, at the in-
stance of a certain Mrs. L. Mrs. L. may be only a literary
device, for these letters are really an autobiography. They
continue her story from 1783, and doubtless carried it down
to 1815, the date at which she was writing. Unfortunately
the administrator of her estate did not consider the letters
to Mrs. L. sufficiently interesting to print in their entirety,
and the reminiscences end in September 1797 in conse-

quence ; the last twenty years of her life are almost unknown
to us.

EDITIONS OF THE LETTERS

(i.) In the Calcutta Gazette (May 9, 1816) Mrs. Fay

“Tespectfully gives notice that the Narrative . . . is now
7

  
 
 
  
   
   
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
   
   
   

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INTRODUCTORY, NOTES

in the Press, and will be completed with all possible des-
patch’; subscriptions are invited. She died the following
September, intestate and insolvent, and the book was pub-
lished in an unfinished state, with a tepid “advertisement”
by the administrator, who hopes it will benefit the creditors
(p. 288). This is the original edition (1817). The Li-
brary of the India Office possesses a copy; I know of none
other in England.

(ii.) The book brought in a profit of Rs.220 in four
years, and was reprinted in 1821, also at Calcutta. This
reprint is identical with the 1817 edition, except that the
title page is reset and the “advertisement” omitted. The
British Museum possesses two copies of it.

(iii.) In 1908 a new edition was published by Messrs.
Thacker Spink of Calcutta, under the auspices of the Cal-
cutta Historical Society ; edited by the Rev. W. K. Fir-
minger (now an Archdeacon), who further contributed an
introduction and notes. I am grateful to this volume, for
it was here I met Eliza first, and the notes contain much
valuable local matter. Nevertheless it is an indifferent piece
of work. There are numerous slips and—what 1s worse—
the text has been tinkered and repunctuated unpardonably.
Believing Mrs. Fay’s English style to be inferior to his own,
the Archdeacon has made on an average one alteration in
every line she wrote—alterations which always lead us
away from her spirit, and occasionally from her meaning.

The present edition—the first to be published outside
India—makes no claim to scholarship but it does restore
the original text. A few obvious printer’s errors have been
corrected, full names have often been substituted for initials
when my knowledge permits, and in one place (p. 234) 1

eae 1 India Office Records: Bengal Inventories, 1821, vol. 3.

8

ao
anni)

Veh tae talebeletiaebsggh abode saINTRODUCTORY, NOTES 9

have ventured an emendation. Elsewhere Mrs. Fay speaks
for herself, as was indeed her constant custom while alive:
“this story must be told in my own way, or not at all.”
In preparing the notes, I have been under much obliga-
tion to Sir William Foster, C.I.E., who has not only allowed
me access to the India Office records, but has given me the
benefit of his great experience and knowledge. It is entirely
through him that I am able to present a few additional facts
about Mrs. Fay. There are still some problems awaiting
solution: e.g. What was her maiden name? What was the
date and the fate of the portrait of her by A. W. Devis?

MRS. FAY’S CAREER

There is little to relate, beyond what she herself tells us.

She was born in 1756, perhaps at Blackheath. Perhaps
her father was a sailor, for she refers to his familiarity with
the wind’s eye, and to her own resemblance to him when
disguised in a pair of striped trousers. He died in 1794.
There was a mother—dead by 1783. There were two
sisters, one of whom apparently married a Mr. Thomas W.
Preston. The initial letter of Mrs. Fay’s maiden name
was apparently C. And that is all we know of her origins.
So obscure were the C. family that a very few years have
sufficed to conceal them from the historian.

Nor will her education detain us more than it did her.
Something vaguely commercial is indicated—perhaps con-
nected with dressmaking and France. She could splash
about in French, also pick up and drop Italian, Portuguese,
shorthand and Hindustani. In music she loved a Nicolai
Sonata, and she was capable of backgammon and cards,
though rapidly fatigued by either, and invariably worstedora

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10 INTRODUCTORY, NOTES

at chess. On one of her voyages a pair of globes accom-
panied her, but geography could never have been her strong
point, for she thought that the Alps were only one mountain
thick, and the Malabar Hills the third highest range in the
world. Writing she adored—never happier than when the
pen is in the hand—but her grammar was most personally
her own, and Archdeacon Firminger observes with concern
that “she frequently arranges her words in such an order
that she is bound to get into trouble with her relative pro-
nouns.” She does. Indeed her mental equipment was that
of an intelligent lady’s maid or courier, who has read Mrs.
Radcliffe, Pope, and Nubilia in Search of a Husband, and
can allude at a pinch to Queen Cristina of Sweden. Her
religious instruction was that of the Established Church
of England: pious without enthusiasm, she censures the
bigotry of Rome and deplores without attempting to cor-
rect them the errors of the heathen. She thought that the
Mohammedans worship Mohammed. She believed in Na-
ture. She detested indelicacy.

When we meet her (spring of 1779) she is twenty-three
years old, confused and vigorous, and recently married to
Anthony Fay. Nothing is known about Fay either. He
was Irish by extraction, and the only son of a “Francis Fay,
gentleman, late of Rotherhithe, Surrey.” © He had recently
been called to the Bar at Lincoln’s Inn, and was now going
out to practise as an Advocate at the Supreme Court of
Calcutta. At this point Mrs. Fay’s letters to her family
start. The first fourteen of them—the most brilliant she
ever penned—describe the journey out. The ride across
France, the adventures in Egypt, the voyage down the Red
Sea, all lead up with unintentional art to the stupendous

1Lincoln’s Inn Admission Registers, July 3, 1778.INTRODUCTORY NOTES II

tragi-comedy of Calicut, where the East hit her, bang, and
incidentally revealed to her both her husband’s character
and her own. The enormous letter recounting their impris-
onment by Hyder Ali ranks among the more remarkable
documents of Anglo-India; intensity, passion, venom, hu-
mour conscious and unconscious, are sustained page after
page, and the pean of deliverance that follows adds a gTOo-
tesque yet genuine touch of beauty. Nothing as exciting as
Calicut happened to her again. It is her high-water mark
of sensation. In time the Fays reached Calcutta, he was
admitted an advocate (June 16, 1780) and began to prac-
tise, but their married life did not last. They were both of
them underbred and quarrelsome and he was a fool to boot.
In less than two years he had run into debt, alienated their
professional friends, and produced an illegitimate child,
and his wife had to leave him. He went back to England,
in connection with a big political intrigue, and we hear no
more of him (dead by 1815). She went back to Eng-
land herself in 1782, via St. Helena; chastened but in-
domitable.

Her second voyage. Off to Calcutta again in 1784.
Humbler social outlook; thought of starting a seminary for
young ladies: but resumed mantua-making instead: bank-
Tupt in 1788: returned to England in 1794 and acquired
a financial interest in a boat called the Minerva, which
promptly burst into flames owing to the explosion of a
bottle of aqua fortis, and had to be scuttled.

Third voyage. Off to Calcutta in the repaired Minerva.
Arrived in 1796 but only stopped six months. Another
boat is acquired, the Rosalia, and is laded with costly mus-
lins with which she hopes to make her fortune in the United
States. Before she can reach the mouth of the Hoogli, the

 

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 

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12 INTRODUCTORY NOTES

Rosalia fills with water and the muslins are ruined. New
York is attained by other agencies on September 3, 1797.

At this point the administrator lost enthusiasm and
stopped publishing the MS., so that our next glimpse of
the wanderer is in 1815 at Blackheath, where she probably
sponges on her sister, Mrs. Preston. She writes her remi-
niscences for Mrs. L.—older and more formal now, but
still cattish. Her last movements can be pieced together
from various sources.. Next spring she sails for Calcutta
for the last time, on the Sir Stephen Lushington, to die
there on September 9, 1816, aged sixty.” Since she left no
will, her estate was administered by the Registrar of the
Supreme Court. Her Indian creditors got eight annas in
the rupee. Mrs. Preston, of Point Cottage, Blackheath
Hill, was owed £300 and got £61:1:0. The Sér Stephen
Lushington was owed Rs.800 for passage money and got
Rs.400. Her effects were put up for sale by her old enemy,
the auctioneer Tulloh.? Prices did not run high. A book
entitled Thoughts and Remarks on Establishing an Inste-
tution for the Support and Education of Unfortunate re-
spectable females only fetched one rupee fourteen annas,
while Thoughts and Remarks on a Protestant Nunnery
went for even less. Scott, Mrs. Barbauld, Hannah More,
Lady Morgan and introductions to chess also occur on the
list, also oddments of household furniture and millinery,
also a Welch wig, two pianos and a gold watch—perhaps
the very one into which she had stuck pins at Calicut, so
many years before: anyhow it went cheaply. She was
buried the day after her death, in one of the Calcutta

1 Among them are Archdeacon Firminger’s notes to his edition, and MS.
notes in the possession of Sir W. Foster.

2 Asiatic Journal for 1817, pp. 407 and 517.
8 India Office Records: Bengal Inventories, 1816, vol. 3.INTRODUCTORY NOTES 13

cemeteries, no one knows in which, and there her second-
rate career comes to an end. She had been neither rich
nor well-educated nor well-connected nor good-tempered
nor beautiful nor improper; what hope had such a female
of attracting the attention of her contemporaries? And
why does she attract us now?

HER STYLE. HER CHARACTER

“T reserve to myself the option of resuming the narra-
tive style whenever I shall deem it necessary.” She was in
prison when she wrote this, and a tea-kettle had just been
stolen from her by another lady, so that one would not
expect her to reserve options, but the remark is typical
of her. It expresses her character, like all her remarks.
Every word she wrote is personal. Not a single sentence
is dead, and even when she seems to function mechanically
—to praise Providence, for instance—there is always some
little turn at the end, such as “But to resume,” or “You
must however be all impatience to know how we fell into
this pickle, take then the particulars,” which pulls the
paragraph into shape and makes it her own.

How very differently do human beings pass the time allotted them
in this probationary existence! Surely, to consume it in supine
indolence or “vain repetitions” can never render us more acceptable
to Him who is the fountain of light and knowledge. We ate some
preserved peaches with them, which the Consul paid for; and then
took our leave; but were forced to submit to a salute from the

sisters, which we would gladly have dispensed with, for they all
took an enormous quantity of snuff.

Thus does she get her own back upon some unattractive
Ursuline Nuns. Or consider the following trifle: it beginsa ee eS Ea
ee oN eee eee ae oe an

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14 INTRODUCTORY, NOTES

with all the dreariness and unreality of an ocean log, then
curdles into daily life suddenly.

Numbers of man-of-war birds and eggs, were taken, which
proved to be good eating; they likewise caught the finest turtle I
ever saw, weighing near 400 lbs., but by an act of unpardonable
negligence in people so situated, it was suffered to walk overboard

in the night.

Suffered to escape, and she so partial to nourishing food!
Her opinions and desires are always sticking out like this,
and ripping the chaste mantle of literature.

Were she only frank and naive, it would be something,
but she is much more: a soul courageous and gallant, an
eye and ear always on the watch. She does not conceal
her sufferings, but not once does she whine over them, and
we get after a few pages a wonderful impression of hard-
ness. Hard as steel? Scarcely, because that suggests
nobility: but harder than her blockhead of a husband.
When the verandah in which they had hidden their savings
was twitched off the house by a monsoon, he abandoned
himself to lamentations while she calculated the direction
of the wind and finally discovered the money in a far away
tuft of grass. In her sense, as in her sentiment, she is the
child of her century, which despite its palpitations never
lost grasp of the main chance. Her floods of tears and
fainting fits are always postponed until a convenient mo-
ment: they never intrude while she is looking after her
luggage or outwitting her foes.

To this strength of will she joins high powers of ob-
servation. Her little character sketches are delightfully
malicious; Mr. Hare, the Tullohs, the grand Mrs. Hast-
ings, Captain Ayres, Captain Lewis.—“I want to make youINTRODUCTORY NOTES 15

see them,” she says, and we see them. She is also shrewd
about national characteristics; quick to detect the cal-
lousness of the lower class Frenchwoman; nor, if one is to
generalise about the myriads of India, could it be better
done than this:

I wish these people would not vex one by their tricks; for there
is something in the mild countenances and gentle manners of the
Hindoos that interests me exceedingly.

And the liveliness of her eye! People and articles passed
before her not as they do for most of us, in a blur, but with
definite outlines. Read her description of the costume of
the Consul’s wife at Alexandria, or of the costume she
herself donned before entering Cairo, or of the scenery of
East Africa, with which she so nearly collided. All she
says of it is “before we tacked flées were seen on the shore
—had this happened during the night nothing could have
saved us”: yet no words could bring East Africa nearer
and she does not weaken the effect by remembering that
night might have concealed the flies. And her ear: like
her eye it is always alive; how the cries of the sepoys at
Calicut sink into her! And her mouth: how she does
relish her food! She is constantly registering through her
senses, and recording the results with a powerful though
untrained mind. The outcome is most successful, and it
is strange that her letters are not better known in this
country. ‘Though they have value historically, their main
interest is human; they show us a highly remarkable
character, triumphant over the difficulties of life and
Narrative style.

Style is always being monopolised by the orderly minded;
they will not admit that slap-dash people have equal lit-La a a at
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16 INTRODUCTORY NOTES

erary rights, provided they write slap-dash. If Mrs. Fay
got her relative pronouns correct she would be a worse
writer, for they can never have been correct in her mind,
she can never have spoken quite proper even when calling
at Government House or learning sweet little Miss Rogers
the use of the globes. She wrote as well as she could, she
wrote nothing that she herself was not. Even the tatters
of the Grand Manner are hers, for she was full of aspira-
tions, and loved to embark upon the billows of the
grandiose. Her humour, irritability, power of description,
sense of little things, all gain their full force because she
was at the same time wishing she could write as feelingly
as Mrs. Radcliffe or as wittily as Fielding. Her age pro-
duced many greater letters, but few that so faithfully
reflect the character of their author. Every word tells its
story. Cherchez le style; c’est la femme.

THE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

Two facts must be kept in mind while we read the earlier
letters: England and France are at war, and the English
in India are preparing to fight Hyder Ali, the ruler of
Mysore.

(i.) England went to war with France (also with Spain,
America and Holland) in 1778, so when the Fays travel
across France in the following year they are in enemy
country. They are treated, and expect to be treated “with
great politeness”; she is quite affronted when their papers
are looked at, and though she sometimes sighs for Old
England, she never thinks it her duty to suffer. With a
clear conscience she admires Marie Antoinette, sight-sees,
hob-nobs with the enemy, gives her letters to St. Lubin.

ee eralo ke eat

  

INTRODUCTORY, NOTES

The French, under Admiral Suffren, treated Hickey and
his Charlotte with similar courtesy at Trincomalay three
years later (Wm. Hickey, iii, 34 seg.). Eliza has not
Charlotte’s charm, yet even she finds little to resent, and
her letters are an interesting example of eighteenth century
war mentality.

Peace was made in 1783 to the advantage of France.
‘The war had been mainly naval—West Indies, coasts of
Southern India; in the latter theatre it connects with the
more intimate operations of Hyder Ali.

(11.) The “fell tyger Hyder Ally” was a Mohammedan
soldier, who started in Hindu employ, established himself
in the uplands of Mysore, and was trying from that cen-
tral position to dominate southern India, and to reach the
Malabar coast on the west and the Carnatic and Coro-
mandel on the east. He succeeded in the Malabar and
occupied Calicut, its capital: but to the east he had already
collided with the English in Madras (1767-69), and a
second and greater war was impending when the F ays blun-
dered on the scene. Hyder Ali had two main grievances
against the English: they had taken the port of Mahe
during their operations against the French, and he regarded
it as under his protection; and they were intriguing with
his mutinous subjects, the Nairs. In the confusion and
tension his brother-in-law, the governor of Calicut, thought
it wiser to detain all English people there. For further
details see note on the Fays’ imprisonment at Calicut
(p. 292). Soon after their release the actual war broke
out.

This is the war that so roused the eloquence of Burke.
Hyder Ali swept down into the Carnatic and nearly took
Madras. When the French fleet arrived under Suffren he

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18 INTRODUCTORY, NOTES

Aner se

operated in conjunction with it. He died in 1782, but his
son, Tipu Sahib, continued to give trouble.

Subsequent upheavals, such as the French Revolution
and the Battle of Waterloo, do not appear to have incom-
moded Mrs. Fay. But it is as well to remember that she
lived through them. She saw a little of the Portuguese
possessions, and a little of the Cape, both before and after
the expulsion of the Dutch: and probably she saw a good
deal of America towards the close of her life, but “having
arrived in the land of Columbia, I will bid you adieu.”

: cee
se EEN Meare eat ee Pate ome

CALCUTTA IN 1780

When the Fays landed in Calcutta, certain very cele-
brated and rather dull historical events were in progress,
events well known to Macaulay and every schoolboy, and
the object of careful research on the part of Sir James
Fitzjames Stephen. Eliza herself was more interested in
the price of mutton and the shapes of hats, nevertheless the
celebrated events influenced her life, so some reference must
be accorded to them; it will be followed by short references
to Calcutta society and to Calcutta topography.

Gi.) Hiéstory—tIn 1773 the British Parliament had
passed a “Regulating Act” to provide for the government
of Bengal, a province which was technically part of the
Mogul Empire but actually under the control of a politico-
commercial enterprise, the Honourable East India Com-
pany. The Act created (a) A Supreme Council at Calcutta,
with Warren Hastings as Governor-General and four coun-
cillors, of whom the most famous is Philip Francis; (2) A
Supreme Court of Judicature, with Sir Elijah Impey as

 

Oro
a

ISG:INTRODUCTORY NOTES 19

Chief Justice and three other judges, of whom Sir Robert
Chambers will concern us most (p. 183). Council and
Court were independent of each other and their spheres not
clearly defined, so there was friction between them (p. 186),
but far more serious was the friction that arose inside the
Council itself. A prominent Hindu, who had accused Hast-
ings of corruption, was himself subsequently accused of for-
gery; he was tried before the Supreme Court, and probably
fairly tried, he was found guilty and was exec d (1775).

oA
?

This is the famous and interminabl€ Nuncomar cas$: Mrs.

Fay does not refer to it in her letters, but it must have
been_often_on_her lips, for it convulsed Calcutta, and

finally crippled t ne careers both OF Hastings and.of Impey.

Warren Hastings is far above our heads; an Imperial
Pioneer and a fine fellow. feared tor his ability, liked for
his charm. ~ He “had jiist"made a somewhat imprudent
second marriage with a divorcée, but was living down the
slight scandal it had raised. Impey was a man of inferior
calibre; however, he was neither dishonourable nor weak,
and, though he and Hastings had been at the same public
school, there is no reason to suspect conspiracy between
them on the occasion of the Nuncomar trial. The evil
genius of the tangle was certainly Philip Francis. Bril-
liant, bitter, ambitious, immoral, and probably the author
of the Letters from Junius, Francis came out East in the
hope of advancing his career on the newly created Council,

but he met with a personal mishap: he climbed up a bamboo
ladder into the room of a Mrs. Grand, _swas..discawered,
sued by the husband, ‘and condemned by Sit Elijab Impey
to pay Rs.59,000.(3 779). Hlence-his 1 7
which--combined ‘with—his~jealousy—of-Fiastings on the
Council, and induced him to take up. the Nuncemar triala ae ee era ht
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20 INTRODUCTORY NOTES

(although he had not tried to save Nuncomar at the time),
and to search for anything else that was likely to injure
his enemies. He drew a Colonel Watson into his schemes,
and Watson drew in poor blustering Anthony Fay (p. 209)
and Fay deserted his wife; celebrated events wrecked little
lives.

Francis and Hastings fought a duel (p. 195), but this
was only an incident in their feud. Francis returned home
after it to stir up trouble in England. He aimed at the
impeachment of Hastings and of Impey. for. High Irea-
son: both men had subsequently to return for the pur-
pose of defending themselves, Hastings. was. tried. and

Loe.

COMIN OE IS

impeach Impey was dropped.

Books: Fitzjames Stephen, Nuncomar and Impey, gives
a thorough analysis of the episode; for gossip, turn to
Busteed, Echoes from Old Calcutta (4th edition), an
entertaining and accurate miscellany.

(ii.) Society——To the student of British deportment
overseas, the end of the eighteenth century in Calcutta is
an interesting period. A change is at hand. The English
are no longer merely traders, soldiers, adventurers, who
may take up what attitude suits them towards the abo-
rigines; they are acquiring racial consciousness and the
sense of Imperial responsibility.

O never let conscience molest or offend you,
For conscience should keep all the time we’re in India,

sings a local poet in the Bengal Gazette, but his advice was
ignored and his paper suppressed. A Supreme Council
and a High Court brought solemn social consequences in
their train. Viceregal airs begin, the king’s birthday 1sSoReal

  

INTRODUCTORY NOTES 21

already a religious event although he was George the
Third, Lady Governess and Chief Justice hold their state,
and apart from them, with a pride exceeding their own,
Charles Grant lays the foundation of Protestant Missions
in Bengal. What would be the relation of this new
society to the old oriental societies through which it was
sprouting? No one asked the question yet, nor knew that
a very peculiar brand—Anglo-India—was being added to
the existing distractions of the peninsular.

A social routine soon evolved, which has partially
continued down to the present sterner epoch. Ride or
walk before breakfast. Breakfast about nine. Then the
gentlemen went to their work, and the ladies passed their
morming as best they might, in a state of deshabille.

The fashionable undress, except in the article of being without
Stays (and stays are wholly unworn in the East) is much in the
English style, with large caps or otherwise, as fancy dictates. No
care or skill is left unexerted to render the appearance easy and
graceful, a necessary circumstance, as gentlemen in the course of
their morning excursions continually drop in, who say the prettiest

things imaginable with an air of truth that wins on the credulity and
harmonises the heart.

Thus writes Miss Sophia Goldborne, a contemporary
of Mrs. Fay’s and sometimes her rival in the narrative
style. Dinner burst on the world at two—enormous
(p. 190); the gentlemen each drank three bottles of
claret, after which both sexes fell asleep, only regaining
consciousness towards sunset. Perhaps a little more work
was done in the evening, but the great event was a ride
or drive on the Course, or an airing on the Hoogli; then
tea or coffee, formal calls, and supper at ten. Mr.Mews

See tie ee

Porn
rr ers

ree! PRO :
de Tee SI
SR Ce odie Spe ar are

<a PS Ven canelice

ae

Pepe eT Sa :
ae Sphere ie)
De Soo

me
MY SYA

  
  

22 INTRODUCTORY NOTES

Mackrabie (another contemporary) writes in his diary:
“Entre nous, the evening was stupid enough, and the
supper detestable; great joints of roasted goat with end-
less dishes of cold fish.” Bed at midnight.

Mrs. Fay’s early connections were with legal circles—
the Impeys, Chambers, Hydes. But after her husband
deserted her she sank into what would now be termed
“second society.” Perhaps she did not mind much. She
had soon seen through the world and its little tricks and
discovered that “grand parties so much resemble each
other that a particular detail would be unnecessary and
even tiresome,” and that even Mrs. Warren Hastings was
mildly absurd.

The delightful Memoirs of William Hickey (3 vols.:
1749-1790) form a perfect social pendant to our au-
thoress. If she is a lady, Hickey is a gentleman. He
was an Irish attorney, etc., who ran in and out of Calcutta
during her period, and in and out of the same section of
society. They never allude to one another, and it is
improbable they ever met—dates just preclude it. But
they had numerous friends and aspirations in common, and
both clung to what either would have called the wheels of
fashion’s car. Their value to us to-day is that they were
not first-rate, never at the top. They give an account of
Calcutta that would never occur to the well-bred, the highly
educated, the sincerely pious, or the satisfactorily intro-
duced. If any one wishes to know what ordinary social
life there was like a hundred and fifty years ago, let him
read them; their modest careless stuff is true as a mirror
and also pleasant as a design.

(iii.) Topography.—The city, like its inmates, was Just
assuming modern airs. Its territory already stretched overBod Wer ica baa |

  

INTRODUCTORY NOTES 23

three miles along the Hoogli and about a mile and a half
inland. As Mrs. Fay sailed up the animated stream she
passed on her right the recently built residences on Garden
Reach, and, after them, the imposing mass of the new
Fort William, the river Esplanade, and the old Fort
William. ‘The Old Fort was under demolition, for bitter
memories were not as carefully cherished in India then as
they are to-day, and Eliza and her friends were not exer-
cised by an episode which had happened in the débris
twenty years previously, and which was to thrill the nine-
teenth century with increasing indignation:—the Black
Hole of Calcutta. The site of the tragedy was—as it still
is—the geographic centre of the city, and the bungalows of
the English and the buildings they constructed for business,
amusement, and religion lay mostly within a half-mile
radius of this Old Fort; hereabouts stood the Government
Offices, the Court House, the residences of the judges, the
“Harmonicon,” the Playhouse, and other buildings men-
tioned by Mrs. Fay, and here, shortly after her arrival, rose
the classical colonnade of St. John’s Church. It is not
known where she and her husband set up house, but in later
years, after his desertion of her, she had a shop abutting on
to the St. John’s churchyard, z.e. in Old Post Office Street,
now called Hastings Street (see note, p. 299).

North, east, and south of the English area dwelt “the
blacks” in some congestion, the richer blacks repairing to
the north. Also apart, though for other reasons, dwelt the
Governor-General, Warren Hastings, together with his
wife, the Lady Governess. Until recently the magnificent
couple had lived out at Belvedere, Alipore, but Hastings
had sold this house just before Mrs. Fay arrived, and the
house in which she pays her respects and which she callsAW)

Secnasti oa a ape Seer

ee ore et eee Serer

Se Te ew

Mi Nerra

La
ee

ee

re \ eg aya ETO EG hae ay ee:
SEAS Dito bea fener e Re Py Dy iC

geet eeu ta ee
es rN

  

24 INTRODUCTORY NOTES

‘Belvidere’ must be some other mansion, at present un-
identified.

There was no bridge over the Hoogli, and consequently
little expansion on the western bank.

Those who care to evoke Mrs. Fay’s Calcutta should
look at the charming set of coloured engravings of the
city by T. Daniell (1786-88), which breathe the very
spirit of Anglo-Indian origins; here are porticoes and
street scenes, esplanades, equipages, and mendicants, just
as they met her appraising eye. Among contemporary
maps Upjohn’s (1791) is good. Literary assistance may
be found in Firminger’s notes, Busteed’s Echoes from Old
Calcutta, and the pages of Bengal, Past and Present, an
excellent periodical which specialises on topography.

THE DEVIS PORTRAIT
(See Frontispiece)

This amusing picture raises a small problem. It 1s
reproduced from the engraving “by T. Alais” in the 1817
edition. I have failed to trace the original drawing. As
the inscription states, Mrs. Fay is in Egyptian (not in
Indian) costume—the clothes precisely correspond with her
description of what she wore in Cairo—so one would assume
that the portrait was made shortly after her arrival in Cal-
cutta, z.e. about 1780, while she still had money, friends,
youth, and interest in her escapade. But A. W. Devis, the
artist, would then have been very young indeed—scarcely
eighteen—nor can I find proof that he came East at so
early a date. He was on an E.I.C. boat, the Antelope, in
1783, and was wrecked on the Pelew Islands, where he took

 

LIL TTT ETE oak SoeINTRODUCTORY, NOTES 25

part in the tribal wars of savages, and sketched them and
their womenfolk between whiles (see An Account of the
Pelew Islands, by George Keate, 1788—a fascinating work,
replete with adventures that put the Fays’ to shame). He
was in Calcutta by 1784, and perhaps he drew Mrs. Fay
then, but she had parted with her husband, lost her mother,
and visited England in the interval, and it seems unlikely
that she should retain either her Egyptian clothes or her
enthusiasm about them through so many vicissitudes.rae

§
i
iSer aL

or)

os

 

Ree

 

 

 

 

See later 7°

, CA trofoed ir foe’ Cgyptan ([eetumeUt a

   
   
  
    
  
   
  
    

ORIGINAL LETTERS

FROM INDIA:

CONTAINING A NARRATIVE OF A
JOURNEY THROUGH EGYPT,

AND
THE AUTHOR’S IMPRISONMENT AT CALICUT

BY HYDER ALLY.

TO WHICH IS ADDED,

AN ABSTRACT OF THREE SUBSEQUENT VOYAGES To INDIA.

 

BY Mrs. FAY.

 

PRINTED AT CALCUTTA.Sr ae

amen,
~~

ee

poet res :
oreBE ON 1

 

PREFACE

Tue volume now submitted to the public, exhibits a faith-
ful account of certain remarkable occurrences in the history
of an individual, whose lot has been to make frequent visits
to several distant regions of the globe, to mingle in the
society of people of different kindreds and tongues, and to
experience many vicissitudes of fortune. At a time when
fictitious representations of human life are sought for with
so much avidity, and constitute one of the principal sources
of amusement in the hours of solitude, such a work as the
present will, it is presumed, not be unacceptable. Those
whose curiosity is attracted by the recital of incidents that
never took place, or whose sensibility can be awakened by
the description of emotions that were never felt, may per-
haps derive a similar gratification from the following un-
embellished narrative of simple facts and real suffer-
ings.

Five and thirty years ago, it was the fate of the author
to undertake a journey over land to India, in company with
her husband the late Anthony Fay Esq. who, having been
called to the bar by the onorable society of Lincolns Inns,
had formed the resolution of practising in the courts of
Calcutta. They travelled through France, and over the
Alps to Italy, whence embarking at Leghorn they sailed
to Alexandria in Egypt. Having visited some of the
curiosities in this interesting country, and made a short
stay at Grand Cairo, they pursued their journey across the

Desert to Suez. After passing down the Red Sea the ship
29

i
bi al
Ces vaa

Se eee

  

Se ee Ta

a om

eee cee Re
‘ Wil cbse

ee sae eA an
Rh ad Ret SRG, gee ihn i

30 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

in which they sailed touched at Calicut, where they were
seized by the officers of Hyder Ally, and for fifteen weeks
endured all the hardships and privations of a rigorous
emprisonment.

When, after residing two years in India, the author, on
account of circumstances explained in the course of the
work, returned to her native country, she was repeatedly
urged by several of her friends to publish some account of
the events that had befallen her, which, it was supposed
would engage the attention of the public, being connected
with important circumstances in the lives of well known
and respectable individuals, and illustrative of the char-
acter of a Potentate whose movements were the subject of
serious alarm in India. But, at this period a woman who
was not conscious of possessing decided genius or superior
knowledge could not easily be induced to leave “the harm-
less tenor of her way,” and render herself amenable to the
“pains and penalties” then, generally, inflicted on female
authorships; unless inspired by that enthusiasm that tram-
ples on difficulties, or goaded by misfortune which admits
not of alternative. Being utterly uninfluenced by either
of these motives, and having all the fear of criticism and
aversion to publicity which characterizes the young women
of her day, the author at that time declined complying
with the wishes of those she yet highly honored, and
never enquired farther after the fate of her letters, than
to learn that they were duly received by those dear friends,
to whom all her peregrinations and the knowledge of her
eventual safety could not fail to be highly interesting.

Since then, a considerable change has gradually taken
place in public sentiments, and its developement, we have
now not only as in former days a number of women who

PE ae ae OL eh arte Seo!ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 31

do honour to their sex as literary characters, but many
unpretending females, who fearless of the critical perils
that once attended the voyage, venture to launch their
little barks on the vast ocean through which amusement or
instruction is conveyed to a reading public: The wit of
Fielding is no longer held over them in terrorem, and the
delineations of Smollet would apply to them in vain. The
race of learned ladies ridiculed by these gentlemen is ex-
tinct. A female author is no longer regarded as an object
of derision, nor is she wounded by unkind reproof from
the Zterary Lords of Creation. In this indulgent era the
author presumes to deliver her letters to the world as they
have been preserved by the dear sister to whom they were
partly addressed, trusting that as this is, in its nature, the
most unassuming of all kinds of writing, and one that
claims the most extensive allowances, they will be received
with peculiar mercy and forbearance.

Since the period to which these letters refer, the Author
has made voyages to India, touching in the course of them
at various places in all the quarters of the globe, and has
been engaged in commercial and other speculations. Her
trials and anxieties, however, have produced only a long
train of blasted hopes, and heartrending disappointments.
—An account of these subsequent occurrences is therefore
subjoined in a series of letters lately drawn from the
original Journals and Memorandums, and addressed to a

lady, whom the Author has the happiness to rank in the
number of her friends.

Shadows, clouds, and darkness still rest on the remainder

of her pilgrimage, which calls for the pilotage of kindness
and the Day-star of friendship. She has, however, by the
blessing of Providence been constantly enabled to tisees

ra moe

Fe anal

Sr ae eee ee tore er Te en eee ae
pe ef eROrE Son 2 eR OT ne oe oe sie 7.
GES ae aaa tho LO pa eo es Cease iptied gt

(ite be

Jk ok

   

32 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

superior to misfortune, and will not now in the evening of
her days, derogate from the unostentatious energy of her
character, or seek to solicit the pity of her readers by weari-
some retrospect or painful complaints. With feelings
acutely alive to kindness and truly grateful for every ex-
pression of it, she most thankfully esteems the generous
patronage with which she has been honoured, and is ren-
dered the more sensible of its value, because she is conscious,
that it was not meanly solicited or unworthily obtained.

To the inhabitants of Calcutta, she begs more particu-
larly to render her thanks. Long acquaintance, high
esteem, and unfeigned affection call for this peculiar
tribute. Five times has she visited this city, under various
circumstances, and with different feelings, yet never had
cause to regret the length or the dangers of the voyage,
secure of ever meeting here all that could encrease the joys
of social life, in its happiest moments, or soothe the hours
of languishment in the days of adversity.

CatcuTra, Anno. 1816.Spach ttrhFincehe iene peer rides

ORIGINAL LETTERS

Letter I
FROM MRS. FAY

Parts, 18th April, 1779.
1 BELIEVE before I left England it was agreed that, my
Letters should not in general be addressed to any one
particularly, as they will be something in the style of
journals; therefore a contrary method would be rather
embarrassing—I suppose you begin to think that I have
forgotten you all; but it really has not been in my power
to write till now, of which assertion an account of our route
will furnish abundant proof.—We reached Dover at about
seven in the evening of the (én my eyes,) ever memorable
loth of April. The thoughts of what we all suffered on
that day, can never be banished one instant from my recol-
lection, till it shall please God to grant us a happy meeting.
My constant prayers are that, we may be enabled to support
this dreadful separation with fortitude—but I dare not
trust myself with the subject; my very heart seems to melt
as I write, and tears flow so fast as to compel me to shut
one eye while I proceed. It is all in vain, I must leave off.
And must weeks, nay months elapse before I can have the

Satisfaction of even hearing from you? How shall I

sup-
port the ide

a! oh my dear Father! my beloved Mother! for
your poor girl’s sake, take care of your precious health; do
33

 

~~ * ~ . ~ es wm «
7 >, : aye 7 5 sta
ISS rrr ogee eps Ui See Naeger

Da aie * ‘ac , i vee tA
TIP RT eponeke

a)
oo

eT TEE
io EARS Poe
ae

en eme= stares!

  
  
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
   
   
  
 
 
 
  
  
  

=e

a
oy

ett

: seis mee

aon
=~et era
rs

facet PS

paca oleae
Sime ae

a ba

amet
=

a heated
See ome

Crete p

  

Oey ak

34 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

not be unhappy. The Almighty will, I doubt not, preserve
us to each other; something tells me that we shall meet
again; and you have still two excellent children left to be
your comfort; they I know will use every effort to keep
up your spirits; happy to be so employed! but let me not
repine; this trial is not permitted, but for all wise purposes.
I will now lay down my pen and endeavour to acquire a
calmer set of ideas, for I must either write with more
fortitude or not at all. Adieu for a little while; I will try
to take some refreshment, and then resume my pen.—Half-
past four p. m.—In vain I strive, the thoughts of home still
prevail, and totally preclude every other consideration. I
know no better method of chasing these intruders, than by
proceeding with the narrative of our journey; allons donc.
We embarked at Dover for Calais on the 11th at 5 Pp. M.
and had a most delightful passage of just three hours, from
port to port. I wished for a little sea sickness but either
the wind was not high enough, or I am become too good a
sailor, to expect benefit this way, for I remained perfectly
well. I assure you there is a deal of ceremony used here
now. On coming within gunshot of the Fort, we hoisted a
French flag, and were permitted to sail quite up to the
Quay. We met the other packet coming out, which
accounts for my not writing by that mail.—I have neglected
to mention that Mr. B— the young gentleman whom
Captain Mills recommended as a travelling companion,
joined us before we left England. His appearance is by
no means prepossessing; he seems a dissipated character
and more calculated to shine in convivial parties than to
render himself agreeable in the common routine of society ;
whether this opinion be just or not, time will discover. On
landing we were all drawn up together, and ordered to theSFL are a

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 35

Custom House, where we gave in our names, occupations,
&c. they next marched us about half a mile farther to wait
on the Governor, in order that he might put any questions
he chose to us; his Lordship not being visible, we were
forced to arm ourselves with patience and proceed to his
Commissary, where we found it a mere matter of form,
they asking but what was known before. However I assure
you, we thought more than we dared to express on the
occasion. Only imagine how disagreeable to be dragged
about in such a manner immediately after a Sea voyage
instead of reposing ourselves. After all was settled, we
first took places in the Diligence for the next day: then
called on Monsr. Pigault de l’Epinoye, to whom you will
remember I had been formerly introduced. He received
us with his usual kindness and hospitality. This gentleman
is descended in a direct line from one of the six brave
Citizens of Calais, who so nobly offered themselves as
victims to save their beloved country from the barbarous
sentence pronounced against it by our third Edward. He
is much esteemed by his countrymen on this account.

This being my fourth visit to Calais, I must of course
have formerly described every thing worth notice there, so
shall merely say we sat off from thence on the 12th Inst. at
8th a. mM. and reached Boulogne about noon. The sight of
this place brought to my mind many pleasant recollections
of the social hours passed there. I called on several friends,
and was much urged to prolong my stay among them, but
that you know was impossible. Indeed far rather would I,
had time permitted, have taken one turn round the ramparts,
to enjoy the melancholy satisfaction of once again behold-

ing the white cliffs of my dear native land, so frequently
viewed from thence.es reas ‘a
mii) fae
Bh

Fa a

Fe eee ana
RT ie eraser

REC See eeae Oy aa Lame
wis mie gen ipo al wel

pane ar

cere
ner

= 5 a i i oe nn a — oe
a
; So SEEN dre eee Re a otaeore Cem a ee eer dee er
eas ce ene Oe ees REEF OIE) egeini mn sere io

arate pe

a)

We
4!

Watt
hei
ay

te

Ss Ge oe

 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

CO PROP a i ty

TO CRCHO ROL ULE Ren
Ese) See 5
athe ia)

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 

36

You must expect me to make frequent omissions and mis-
takes, for two men have just placed themselves under my
windows with humstrums; and indeed there is constantly
some noise or other through the day and evening; some-
times two or three dancing bears; and a few hours ago they
exhibited a poor little Porcupine. I pitied the miserable
animal from my heart. What can these unhappy creatures
have done to merit being so tormented? (now by way of
parenthesis, I could almost wish that a London mob had
possession of the two musicians, as possibly the discipline
of a horse-pond might be of use in teaching them for the
future, better employment on Sunday evenings); but to
proceed: We left Boulogne (a place I shall ever admire, and
perhaps regret), and about ten at night reached Montreiul,
from whence we departed at three on Tuesday morning,
dined at Abbeville, and by eight in the evening were set
down at the same Inn, where you may remember we stopped
when travelling this road before, but were hurried away
when we had scarcely tasted a morsel, under pretence of the
Diligence being ready, and afterwards detained in the yard
an hour; nor did our hostess in any respect deviate from her
former character, as you shall hear. As a lady in company
and myself were greatly fatigued we chose tea, but none
being procurable there, were forced to use our own; the rest
sat down to supper, which I had predetermined to avoid
doing. Before they had a quarter finished, in came the
woman; never did J behold such a horribly looking great
creature. ““Well” said she “the coach is ready” and on
being asked if she wanted to get rid of us, replied that it
was equal to her whether we went or staid provided she
were paid for our suppers: at last when compelled to
relinquish her claim on that score from the lady and me,rate on

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 37

she insisted on being allowed twenty-four sous for the hot
water, this we complied with; to oblige our hospitable
countrywoman, (tell it not in Gath I blush to acknowledge
the claim) but persisted in remaining till on being summoned
by the driver, nearly an hour afterwards, we set off and
travelled sixty miles without alighting, to Chantilly, where
is a famous palace belonging to the Prince of Condé, but
to my great mortification, I was through weariness obliged
to remain in the house while the rest of the party went to
see it. Well never mind, you can read better descriptions
of it, than mine would have been. From thence we pro-
ceeded to St Denis, where I was fortunate enough to obtain
a cursory view of the ancient abbey; a most magnificent
structure, the burying place of the Kings of France. Such
scenes naturally induce reflections on the vanity of all human
grandeur, and lead to a melancholy, rather soothing than
otherwise, to minds wearied by exertion, or irritated by
disappointment. Having however little leisure to indulge
these reveries, we passed on to the Library, where among
other trophies is deposited the sword of our illustrious
Talbot; a pang shot across my heart at the exulting manner
in which it was exhibited; in short I felt as an English-
woman, a more severe degree of national mortification than
this Memento of an event so long gone by seemed calculated
to produce. The sacred relics were next displayed, amongst
which are, an eye of St Thomas the apostle, the shoulder
blade of I forget what saint, and a small phial of the Virgin
Mary’s milk; at the sight of these absurdities I silently
blessed God, that my religious instruction had not been
blended with such cunningly devised Fables. If, all the
gems they shewed us were genuine, the Treasury must be
immensely rich, for many of the shrines were almost covered=a OP

Rae)

  
  
 
 
    
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
 

Se rere eam Tae ee

SE adert

Fe ace
a os ee RE Oe

=~

. i ’
aed
oan i i

PON s
Wahi iciss eh aio

ee Pa ee Ee ar Ne OL ee Por ek wire ee ow ee ee. Ae eee ce ow es ber aoe | ae eee
Ae PE CARRERA Sa he Pee beh eR AR gee Cote ee Wary ee oa cee ree er a ene Cee er eet a ee a car et gay ee Re ee yee
RIBS poh MWh NG ge Te Beg Pee i poe a a he ie Se Se PS ae ear ys ee ace Say ae ga en A Re ge ae ae ee ree ae eto eat Pe Coes el |

Hiab ae at RIE A>
Be SNe i ee wd toe ae eed ee BJ goth ok ho
RU a Geena ad 2a Or

   

38 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

with them. We arrived at Paris about eight on Wednesday ;
and most dreadfully fatigued was I; nor will that appear
strange when one considers that, for the last sixty miles the
carriage went as fast as eight horses could draw it, over a
strong rough pavement; never stopping but to change
horses, and at St. Denis to repair a wheel. As the post
went off next morning, I could not recover myself sufficiently
to write by it; but now feel quite strong again, and having
brought you to Paris, may venture to take a little repose as
it is past eleven. 9th 7 a. Mm. I have arisen thus early on
purpose to finish my letter (which must be in the Office
before ten). I find little alteration in this Place; the people
behave as politely as if there were no War, or even dispute
between us. This you know is not the region of Politics,
therefore little can be mentioned under that head. I could
communicate some few observations, but as perhaps this
may be inspected, judge it more prudent to suppress them.
A variety of circumstances has contributed to detain us here
much longer than we intended; and I am fearful we shall
not leave Paris before Thursday; however this will be the
only letter I shall write until I can give you intelligence of
our safe arrival at Marseilles, which will be I suppose in
about a fortnight. From thence to Leghorn we must
coast itina Feluca. So if you write by the mail of the 29th
addressed to me at the Post Office Leghorn, your letter will
be sure to meet me there. J have a thousand things more
to say, but must reserve them for my next, for if I miss the
post it will Iam sure, make you very uneasy—God bless you.
Your’s affectionately.ea ie 4)

 

Letter IT

Parés 24th Aprél 1779.
My vDEaAR Frienps,

Being detained for want of our passports, I find it neces-
sary for my comfort to hold the only communication
now in my power with you. Last night we were at the
Colissée, a place resembling our Ranelagh; there were some
brilliant fire works to be exhibited, and as it is the custom
for Ladies to stand upon chairs to see them, a gentleman of
our party having placed us with our backs against a box,
went to procure some. During his absence the Queen?
entered the box attended by the Duchess D’Alencon, and
several other ladies. I had seen her Majesty before at Ver-
seilles, and thought her at that time very handsome, but
had no idea how much better she would look, by candle
light. She is delicately fair and has certainly the sweetest
blue eyes that ever were seen; but there is a little redness,
a kind of tendency to inflammation around them, and she
is likewise slightly marked with the small pox; both which
trifling blemishes were then imperceptible, and she appeared
perfectly beautiful. On entering the box she sat down,
and pressed the Dutchess to sit also, which the latter in
terms of great respect declining, the Queen in a tone of
kindness that it is impossible to forget, said, “Then you
will oblige me to stand,” rising as she spoke. The Duchess
then complied, and they conversed together very agreeably
during their stay. Her majesty seemed highly gratified

[1 N.B.—These small figures refer to terminal notes, p. 289.]
39

 

oS
aot ae
he

—
ne

ng
ed
.
} Ue
ie
eat

5G CoN
S ” Ws

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 

eetPee tay Se ae ae er ae Spouse aces
AAP Abert PARSE AT TAD rE De Be ae

DU hig heaesctinte tees! Paap eee Oe ee Le ee
Ra ei se Ae arg cr he gee a aa |

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

40 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

4

by the entertainments, and expressed her approbation, in
what I could not help thinking, rather too familiar a way
for a person of her exalted rank: frequently clapping her
hands and exclaiming aloud, “Ah! mon Dieu que c’est
charmant, ah! que c’est joli.’” The Royal party soon re-
tired, and we afterwards walked in the Rotunda! than
which ‘a more brilliant spectacle can scarcely be imagined.
The ladies were all splendidly dressed, and their heads
adorned with feathers in greater profusion, and far more
lofty, than is customary with us. But enough of this, I
must now turn to a very different subject, having hitherto
neglected to inform you of a singular conversation (and its
result) which passed in the Diligence, as we came to this
place. We had among the passengers a Mr. H— an
English Jew, and two brothers, named Ar—f diamond
merchants, who were just returned to their native country
after a long residence in London. The former had left
Paris some years and resided in a provincial town. Speak-
ing of this circumstance he observed that, his principal rea-
son for quitting the Capital was his dread of assassination, to
which he thought it probable that his religion might render
him more liable, than other inhabitants; although he ad-
mitted ke had no proof that persons of his persuasion were
among the more frequent Victims. This statement, of
course, excited both surprize and curiosity in us, who were
foreigners; and the elder Mr. A—f evidently mortified at
such discourse, and doubting a representation of facts from
so prejudiced a quarter, and about which it had not fallen
in his way to inquire, stoutly denied the charge; but the
Jew would not give up the point. He said that in a certain
part of the City, where there were many houses of ill fame,
it was but too common to rob and murder those, who were

pot I al achat
o PAP i gee? i
ond ity 3
Ip re kp aicereh oe ane
penta oa I ES cel Se ee ere

Er os

I a eT
5 Pee aa 2 2 aie,

 

TTT ETE ee TET
DS peter rc ry PR Reg ek Rem ON ery RearSe Cane Ns Cats Coa Eee SSA NES reso a pp se Tne i Rees Se ° 7
pe et an te iy i or tor tg tle en neo yy indie ae ee edt napa, Redo,

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA Al

inveigled into them, and afterwards throw the bodies into
the Seine; when taken out they were conveyed to the Petit
Chatelet to be owned, and that who ever would take the
trouble to visit that place would find that, out of the
numbers deposited there were very few (as reported) merely
drowned persons; but evidently such as had died by violence.
This conversation ended (as that of men frequently does) by
a wager between the parties, both of whom agreed to refer
the matter to Mr. Fay. The Jew was to lose, if, in one
week seven bodies under such suspicious circumstances
should not be found exposed at the Petit Chatelet. 1
thought this a monstrous supposition; for though I had
often heard of people being drowned in the Seine, and the
explicit detail of Mr. H— led me to fear that, the manner
in which they met their fate, was but too truly described,
yet I could not believe the number of victims to be so
great. The result of Mr. F—’s researches has unhappily
placed the fact beyond a doubt. Within the last seven
days, ten miserable wretches have been exposed, who had
marks of violence on their bodies, and of these, there were
two dreadfully mangled. But I will say no more on this
shocking subject than merely to observe, that there must
be either some radical defect in the police, or a degree of
ferocity in the people, not to be repressed by the severe
penal Laws, which in other countries are found nearly
adequate to the purpose. ‘The slight degree of feeling
expressed by the lower order in speaking of such things,
even when pressed on their senses, evinces a hardness of
heart approaching to absolute insensibility, that to me seems
quite revolting: I myself asked a young woman, who had
been peeping through the gate at the Petit Chatelet, what
was to be seen there? “Oh” replied she, with great ap-

an
pest

    
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     

carl
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pests
[
eer

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42 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

parent indifference, “seulement quelques bras et jambes”
(only some arms and legs). I have written myself into a
train of most uncomfortable thoughts, so lest I infect you
with the gloomy ideas that fill my mind, the wisest way
will be to say adieu! We shall now soon be out of Paris.
Ever your’s,

&c. &c.Letter IIT

Parts, 27th April, 1779.
My Dear Sister.

As I do not propose sending this before Monday, I shall
have full time to write every particular. I date once more
from this sink of impurity, contrary to my expectation.
We have been detained thus long that the Lieutenant de
Police might have time to make the necessary enquiries
about us, but have at last obtained our passports, and thank
Heaven shall soon breathe a purer air. From the first
place we stop at, I propose giving you a further account of
our accommodations in the superb and elegant city of Paris,
famous throughout the world for its superiority over all
others, especially in the points of cleanliness and delicacy.
I assure you that, so long as I before resided in France, I
never till now formed an adequate idea of it: but adieu
for the present: I am going to drink tea. How do you
think I make it? Why in an earthen pot an inch thick
at least, which serves the double purpose of tea kettle and
teapot, so it is all boiled up together and makes a most
curlous mess.

AUXERRE EN Burcoyne,
130 Mélles De Paris.

When I wrote the above I was in a great rage and not
without reason, pent up as we were in a street scarce wide

enough to admit the light; our chamber paved with tiles,
43

  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 

ree oo -ca

ore, La aty ate ee noe 4A
GOA OP ries ekg ty PST

BPE ROR Ath Coe ers ree eg En SHS ite

  
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

44 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

which most likely have never been wetted, nor even rubbed,
since the building of the house; add to this two C ommoditées
in the same state, on the stairs, and you will not wonder
that my constitution was not proof against the shock; the
very air I breathed seemed almost pestilential. However
thank God I escaped with one of my feveretts of four days
continuance. When I began this letter I was but just re-
covering: no creature to do the least thing for me in the
way I had been accustomed to; obliged to prepare for my
departure the next morning, though scarcely able to crawl:
and to crown the whole a most extravagant bill for being
poisoned with Dirt. Well we sat off, and the fresh country
air soon restoréd me to myself—but I have not told you
how we travel.

We found the route totally different from what we ex-
pected, and that we must be positively under the necessity
of going by land to Chalons sur Soane, which is three
hundred miles from Paris: now as we could get no re-
mittances till our arrival at Leghorn, it did not suit us to
take the Diligence, so after mature deliberation we deter-
mined on purchasing two horses, and an old single horse-
chaise; but how to avoid being cheated, was the question:
for Mr. Fay did not care to depend on his own judgement
sn horseflesh.—He made enquiry and found that there were
many englishmen employed in the stables of Noblemen
here; so putting a good face on the matter he went boldly
to the Duc de Chartres’ Castle,” and scraped acquaintance
with his head groom, who was very proud to see a country-
man, and immediately on being told the affair, offered his
assistance. Accordingly they went next day to the cattle
Fair, where he pitched on an excellent draught horse, only
a little touched in the wind, on which account he procured

Seen Carre eee
E Ce San ers

Sy ee

eget le PTO Ce giants

LUE On aye yoree EE eee aeAL ae a

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 45

him for six guineas, so there cannot be much lost by him,
even if he turn out amiss. But I dare say he will prove a
most useful beast, for he has drawn Mr. B—r, and myself in
our chaise (which by the bye we bought for seven guineas)
at the rate of thirty five miles a day: and does not seem in
the least fatigued, though we had our heavy trunk at our
back: so much for Azor—now for his help-mate Zemire.
In the course of conversation with his new friend, Mr. F ay
found that, there was a very pretty mare in the Duc de
Lausanne’s stables, which had been intended for the course,
but would not bear training; so he agreed to give eight
guineas for her. Mr. B.— was to ride her next day toa
horse-race in the Bois de Boulogne, and we were to accom-
pany him in a post chaise. But alas! poor man! it was
an unfortunate attempt. It seems he had never been used
to riding, and was ashamed to own it, (one of the weaknesses
to which I really believe men are almost invariably subject),
So wishing to pass for an excellent horseman, he mounted
with pretended courage: but through actual fear, reined her
in so tight that miss, knowing the weaknes of her rider,
reared up on her hind legs, threw him first, and then fell
backward over him. We thought by the violence of the
fall that he must have been killed, but he came off with a
few bruises; we had him bled immediately, put him to bed
and left him in good hands till our return. Mr. Fay
mounted Zemire, and we proceeded to the course, where we
were very agreeably entertained, only it grieved me to see
so many beautiful English horses galloping about; I could
hardly believe myself in France, for all the gentlemen were
dressed after our manner. The Count D’Artois might
very well have been taken for a Jockey in his buck-skin
breeches, and round hat. The bets were chiefly betweenABN OLY) ees eee eS epee eran hie Pa oe NS
Y OM tty he a ; POULT Lae TPC eA

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

46 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

eT Sy
et eer aa ta J
rs ae saa o ate

him and the Duc de Chartres; the horses were all rode by
englishmen: as to our little mare she would fain have been
amongst them, but she had now a rider who knew how to
manage her, and is punished for her audacity; for Mr. B—
: has not the courage to mount her again, and she is forced
ie to carry Mr. Fay with a portmanteau of twenty pounds
weight—You will wonder at my temerity when I acknowl-
edge having myself ventured to mount Zemire, after Mr.
B—’s accident. I first however saw her tried by several
persons, and wishing to be able to vary the exercise by
riding now and then, during our journey, was induced to
make the attempt. She performed twice very well; but
on the third day, an umbrella being snapped close to
her nose, just as I was going to set off, she began to
rear, on which I instinctively abandoned both whip and
reins, and throwing my whole weight forward, clasped
her round the neck with all my might, this sudden
manoeuvre fortunately kept her down: I seized the critical
moment and alighted in safety with no other injury, than
a little fright, and the consciousness of looking rather
foolish. Nor has she ever been guilty of the like towards
any one; so that my character for horsemanship is com-
pletely established. We have been certainly very lucky
in our purchases: the horses perform well, and the chaise,
without being particularly uneasy, seems very strong. I
am told they will bring a good price in the South, but you
shall hear.

I have nothing particular to say of the country; perhaps
it may be national prejudice from which no person is entirely
free, but notwithstanding all their boasting, I do not think
it equals my own dear England. It must be allowed that
the present season is not the most favourable for making

ed

ae ee are

DEG pee ee
Po ae cere euieu aie

as . u ry
ey Oe AP eee ee ee22 aN AOE ag

Joes
Ce
Sta

Pe
“
YS

    
 
   
   
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
  
 

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 47

Nan a ale tal

Cae SOuib ac ray te ie
Seco ce

- Loastanhs Se ah tel at

observations, for they cut the Vines close to the stumps in
the winter, and as they are not yet much sprouted, one sees
nothing but a parcel of sticks in the manner of our hop
poles, but not above thirty inches high, which gives an air
of barrenness to the prospect. I do not know what my
mother would do here, as she is not fond of wine; for there
is nothing else to drink. For my own part, and I believe
I may answer for my companions, I cannot say that I find
any great hardship in being obliged to put up with tolerable
Burgundy at about four pence a bottle; it is not at all
heady, so no creature thinks of drinking it with water. A
pint every meal is the allowance of each. We have all
necessaries with us, such as tea, sugar, bread, butter, corn
for the horses &c: so we have little to do with the Inns,
except at night, when we provide ourselves with meat for
the next day. As to breakfast and dinner we fix on a place
where there is water at hand, and there sit down under the
shade of a tree, and make a fire, while the horses graze
comfortably, and eat their corn. Ask my dear father if he
does not think this a good plan? at least we find it pleasant,
and much more to our taste, than spending more time as
well as money, in the wretched public houses we have
hitherto met with—I wish we were hardy enough to make
the grass our pillow; but that is impossible, so we must
submit to be disgusted and pillaged once a day. You
may remember my remarking that, I was afraid we
should suffer during our journey, for the fineness of the
spring which has proved to be the case. The weather |
has been excessively boisterous for the last fortnight
with much rain, than which nothing can be more dis-
agreeable on a journey, especially when conducted on a
plan like ours.—We were obliged to stop at Fontain-Raeyeecs’

hime Tae
aay

si {
vA
a

een TET

en

Sere ae

ee a es

iii ee One re een?

Cn inier od Zee et ee ue er ea
—— s. At ee a

ern r=
Pm de + - i
Se

ft
a

Re

ba Mth ae hw tig eek DR DNS Ne ae a)
aCe i EE eg neh y pied eo AB ey ee BO, a

5

bs

UNTO ee

rah
eed ie ae gon
ans

  
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

 

48 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

bleau on account of the weather by which means we saw
the Palace, and gardens, and were almost wet through,
for our pains. It is an immense place; the Chapel has
been beautiful, but the paintings are much injured by
time. There is an elegant theatre which I was much
pleased with. The apartments of the royal family are
truly superb. We were shewn the council chamber where
the last peace was signed, and I, as an Englishwoman, be-
held it with great pleasure you may be sure. We saw like-
wise the gallery of Stags, famous for containing above a
hundred stags’ heads all ranged in order with an account,
when they were killed and by whom, and infamous (at least
in my opinion) as being the place where Christina, Queen
of Sweden, caused Monaldeschi her chief chamberlain to be
beheaded, if not absolutely in her presence, at least while
she remained in an adjoining room. I cannot bear that
woman. She abdicated her crown from sheer vanity but
retained that passion for despotism which shewed what
kind of feelings she had cherished, while seated on the
throne. I think that in her, the faults of either sex were
blended, to form a character, which without possessing the
firmness of a man or the gentleness of a woman, was desti-
tute of the virtues expected in both. Christina may have
been an accomplished female; but she can never be called
great, even by her admirers.

The gardens of Fontainbleau are all in the old fashioned-
gingerbread-style, ornamented with box in a thousand fan-
tastical shapes. The Swiss who shewed us the Palace, was
very thankful for a shilling, which is more than any person
in the same situation would be in England for twice as
much. The forest of Fontainbleau is thirty miles across,
and nobody can hunt there without the Kings permission 5ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 49

he comes here every season.—We found the roads very
heavy, but Azor was strong enough to go through them;
however we have given him a day’s rest, and after dinner
shall set off Jehu like.

Now don’t you envy us all this pleasure? I assure you
I should be very glad to go all the way in the same manner,
for we travel without fatigue, and the way of living just
suits me; for you know I always preferred wine to beer,
but I would not have you imagine that I can shake off all
thoughts of home; they return but too frequently, and I
teally believe now, that my illness at Paris, was brought on
principally by uneasiness of mind: but I find myself un-
equal to this subject. I must make a resolution never to
enter upon it; for what service can it do to either of us, to
be continually recalling unpleasant ideas; especially when
I have need of every possible consolation to support me in
the arduous task, which Providence has called upon me to
undertake.

I have now literally exhausted my paper, and must there-
fore leave you to imagine every thing my heart says to all,
and how truly

I am,
your affectionate

&ec. &e.

_

a
ie it. |
: eis anes
Se eeeSacco

ts
a et Ne Os : es

rerio mae

fase

Sey Oia)
FOU ET Settee ork
eta ar ahs

 

Letter IV

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

Leghorn, 17th June, 1779.
My Dear SISTER.

I suppose you have been long uneasy at my silence,
but indeed it has not been in my power to write sooner
—In my last I gave you reason to imagine we should
arrive here in less than three weeks, by way of Marseilles;
but after we reached Lyons we were informed, that this
would prove a very uncertain and dangerous method; as
between the English and French scarcely any vessel can
pass free: therefore after mature deliberation, we deter-
mined as we had still our carriage and horses, to push our
way boldly through Savoye, and cross the Alps to Italy.
We stopped several days at Lyons, which as you and all the
world know has long been famous for its incomparable silks,
and velvets; I think it ought to be so for its asparagus
which is the finest I ever tasted; and remarkably cheap.
Being a vegetable I am very fond of, and having found
it at all times beneficial to my constitution, I wished to
eat it freely; but was almost disgusted by the manner
in which it was constantly brought to table at the Inn,
covered with a thick sauce composed of eggs, butter, oil
and vinegar.

Having in vain remonstrated against this cookery, I at
length insisted on seeing the Cook himself; and when he
made his appearance, arrayed as is customary, in a white
waistcoat, cap, and apron, with a meagre face almost as

sharp as the large knife he held in his hand, I calmly repre-
50ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 51

sented to him that the sauce he had sent up, totally disagreed
with my stomach, and requested to have the asparagus
simply boiled with melted butter, the poor man looked
much distressed “What without oil!” yes! “Without eggs”?
certainly! this answer completed his misery, “Ah madame”
exclaimed he, with clasped hands and uplifted eyes “de
grace un peu de vinaigre”. Madame was inexorable, and
the shrug of contemptuous pity with which he retreated
was ludicrous beyond expression.

On arriving near the Alps, it appeared that I had formed
a very erroneous idea of the route, having always sup-
posed that we had only one mountain to pass, and that
the rest of the way was level ground; instead of which
when we came to Pont de Beauvoisin (50 miles from
Lyons, and the barrier between France and Savoye) we
heard the agreeable news, that we had a hundred and twelve
miles to travel thro’ a chain of mountains, to the great Mont
Cenis.

You may imagine how uncomfortable this information
made us all; with what long faces we gazed upon each other,
debating how the journey was to be performed; but being
happily you know very courageous, I made light of all
difficulties, and whenever there was a hill, mounted Zemire,
while the two gentlemen took it by turns to lead me as I
had not a proper side saddle, so poor Azor made shift to
drag the chaise up pretty well, and in the descents we made
him pay for the indulgence. I forgot to mention that they
were very particular about our passports at this Barrier,
and detained us while the Governor examined them
minutely, though justice compels me to acknowledge that
in general we were treated with great politeness in our
passage through France; no one ever attempted to insultPee ee aha ea
Oa tase Lie,

oon SM ear ace eS a hare
Leh Mae 2) ES rer SAR OIF ODE,
OVTATY Le Fa ene
i er a
rei

  
    
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

52 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

us, which I fear would not be the case were three French
people to travel in England; I wish I could say as much
for their honesty; but I must confess that here they are
miserably deficient, however my being acquainted with the
language saved us from flagrant imposition.

Our method was this: we always if possible, contrived
to stop at night in a large Town, (as to dinner we easily
managed that you know how), but never did we suffer the
horses to be put into the stable till I had fixed the price
of everything; for they generally ask four times as much
for any article as it is worth. If I found there was no
bringing them to reason, we left the house. In particular,
at Chalons sur Soane, the first Inn we stopped at, the woman
had the conscience to ask half a crown for each bed; you
may suppose we did not take up our abode there, but drove
on to another very good house, where they shewed us two
rooms with six excellent beds in them, at the rate of four
sous a bed, for as many as we wanted; so for once I com-
mitted an act of extravagance by paying for the whole; or
we might perhaps have been disturbed in the night by
strangers coming to take possession of those left vacant.
For they are not very nice about such matters in France.
I have seen rooms with six beds in them more than once
during our route. I only mention the difference of price
by way of shewing what people may gain by choosing their
houses, for we were really better accommodated at less than
one fourth of what we must have paid at the other house.
Speaking of Chalons reminds me of a very unpleasant
circumstance that occurred to us at the following stage.
Mr. Fay had most unwisely and contrary to my earnest in-
treaty, pinned our passports to the book of roads, which
he usually carried with him on horse back, and as might be

Paras rT ame
soe Z seroma 5 Z

a
. pw

Ee erence
Serene BG OR ce CREE Oe ra

wieeee

1p
1 ea

SIRE a eaeRY PRs err Permiee earcr iene Yen oer ory ates

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 53

expected, they, in a short time worked themselves loose,
and we were on our arrival at the end of the next day’s
journey alarmed with the idea of their being intirely lost,
and that we should be compelled to return all the way to
Paris to procure others: happily Mr. Fay went back &
found them at a place where we had stopped, I need not
tell you what fright and vexation, this folly and obstinacy
cost us: but I hope it will have a salutary effect for the rest
of our journey.

In further proof of my assertion on the subject of
honesty, I must relate a little incident which occurred on
our way to Lyons. Mr. Fay had changed as many guineas
at Paris, as he thought would be sufficient to bring us to
Chalons, and received by weight twenty four livres ten
sous, for each, that is seven pence halfpenny profit: well,
the last day but one we finished our current money, but
as we were in a city, doubted not of being able to obtain
nearly the value of our guineas. On inquiry we were
recommended—to a very religious goldsmith who by the
landlord’s account spent almost his whole life in acts of
piety : after waiting an hour and a half till he returned from
mass, Mr. F. delivered him a guinea, confident of receiving
its full value: when behold this conscientious gentleman
after the most minute inspection and weighing it in a pair
of sugar scales generously offered eighteen livres as a fair
price: which so enraged Mr. F ay that he immediately left
him and went to another shop, where the utmost they
would give was twelve livres: only think what wretches!

since it was impossible for them to be ignorant of its real
value. Mr. Fay declared that he would rather fast all day
than submit to become such a dupe. This subjected us to
great inconvenience; after discharging the reckoning we

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    
   
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

Cr Ere SO ERAT SN pee Y Rice ,PPE re ye pte Pe Reon A a eee eo

oe PCH SRN Ea pein Ph pha Le Sree CRS Ste oo msgs See a Rte Wipe. fo”

Fy tye yyy OU ra Cane Ge peor Tat ch ered eg a 2a a4
Be Gap sce tN rp a i hehe EG

tea u
Vela ea ee

     
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

54 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Pere ee ect Pe Se ee

Peay es a a il
a Yiutte = Ps af = - .
irae CE OP OE Saige 7 aN

had only thirty sous remaining; and sat out with a sum
not sufficient to procure a single refreshment for our poor
horses; so that at every Inn we were obliged to represent
our situation: but found none who had honesty enough to
offer us a fair price for our guineas, or the charity to give
us even a glass of wine or a morsel of bread. I leave you
to guess if our appetites were not pretty keen by the time
we arrived at Lyons. I shall never forget how foolishly
we looked at each other all day; however a good supper
obliterated all grievances, and the next morning we found a
way to change our guineas for Louis-d’ors on equitable
terms. So much for our starving adventure. To proceed
on our journey.

On the 20th we reached Lanneburg, a village at the foot
of Mont Cenis situated in what is called a valley, which
though really so with respect to the mountains that surround
it, is even with the clouds. I had a tolerable proof of its
elevation, for the weather was so sharp, that I could not keep
a minute from the fire. By the way I must observe, that
having travelled through North Wales, I supposed myself
to have acquired a tolerable idea of mountains and their
appendages, such as cascades, torrents, and apparently air-
hung-bridges &c. but the passage of the Alps set at defiance
all competition, and even surpasses whatever the utmost
sketch of my imagination could have pourtrayed.

The valley of Lanneburg is itself, the most strange wild
place you can conceive, in some parts grotesque, in others
awfully terrible. The rocks rise around you so fantastically,
that you might almost think yourself transported to a place
which nature had made a respository of these stupendous
inn productions, rather with a view of fixing them hereafter in
ha appropriate situations, than of exhibiting them here.

TTA Saya Tess
tenia targa
aS Oe A vanihe

Be oat ai

Se a ee ed Se eet re ee nr eee eo es
Saiacmiaas ie ree TO REI ee a eet eal

 

ET eae at SEO ee ae eeeake vist oe “<> As
oye Ota he att ery treat tpt =

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 55

But above all, the cascades throughout the road are
charming beyond description; immense sheets of water are
seen sometimes, falling from rock to rock; foaming fretting
and dashing their spray on every side; and sometimes de-
scending in one grand flow of majestic beauty: in short
they went so far beyond any idea I had formed of such
appearances in nature, that they seemed to communicate
new powers of perception to my mind, and if I may so
express it, to expand my soul, and raise it nearer to its
Creator. The passage has been so ably described by
various writers that any formal account I could give you
of it, would rather waste your time than add to your
information. I shall only tell you how I felt and acted for
I know your affection prompts the wish to travel in imagina-
tion with the sister you love; come then let us ascend
Mont Cenis together.—After various deliberations it was
concluded that I should go up across a mule, as the safest
way; both the gentlemen determined on walking, which
Mr. Fay knew not to be very difficult, having made the
experiment the evening before. I was strictly forbidden
to touch the reins, being assured that the animal would
guide himself, and that any attempt to direct him could
hardly fail to prove fatal. Under this charge, judge what
I must have felt when my mule, in the very steepest part
of the ascent and when I had become fully sensible of the
“high and giddy height,” all at once, thought proper to
quit the pathway, and with great sang froid stalk out upon
one of those precipitous projections, where only the foot of
a wild Goat or Chamois ought to tread. What did I not
suffer! I durst not touch the rein, durst not even call to
the guide for help. Every instant appeared fraught with
destruction, it seemed madness to die without an effort to

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56 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

save one’s self, yet to make an effort was to invite the fate
one dreaded. Happily this dreadful poise between life and
death lasted not long; for, the sagacious animal calmly
picking its way fell into the track by a path, which no
human eye could discern, and the guides gave me great
praise for my self-command; a praise I never desire to
purchase again by a similar trial. If however anything
could render a stranger easy in crossing the heights, it
would be the amazing skill and celerity which these people
display; the road winds in a zigzag direction; and in the
most acute, and of course, in the most dangerous turns they
leap from crag to crag as if they held their lives on lease,
and might safely run all risks, till the term expired.—The
plain, as it is called, at the top of this mountain is six miles
across: as we proceeded we found “still hills on hills, and
Alps on Alps arise”; for we continued to be surrounded
by snow top mountains, where reigns eternal frost. The
heat of the sun had thawed the passage, so that we met
with no inconvenience, but we passed great quantities of
ice lodged in the crannies. There is a very large lake on
the plain, said to be unfathomable; that I can tell nothing
about, but that it contains excellent, salmon and trout, am
well convinced, for we stopped at the Inn according to the
laudable custom of all travellers, for the sole purpose of
tasting it. An Inn, say you, at the top of Mont Cenis!
Yes, it is really a fact, not that I envy them their situation,
but they are not the only inhabitants: for there are more
than twenty farm houses, where they make most excellent
butter and cheese. Every spot around, where it is possible
for the hand of cultivation to scatter seeds for the use of
man, is treasured with care and nourished by industry ; and
you see gardens no bigger than a dining table, and fieldsORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 57

like a patch of carpet, from time to time, smiling beneath
the rugged battlements of rocks, like the violets peeping in
the hedges. Far, among the apparently inaccessible heights
of this “cloud capt” region, they pointed out to me a
Chapel, vulgarly called notre Dame de Neige; and justly
have they named her, for eternal snows designate her
dwelling; if however these simple and sequestered beings
can there draw near to God, and experience the comfort of
religious hope, and providential care, this singular edifice
has not been reared in vain, to bless such a region of
desolation.

When you read an account of the road, it will readily
be perceived that my fellow travellers must have found some
difficulty in getting the horses over, as the poor beasts were
not accustomed to such a rugged path; for you are to
understand that, the people in the neighbouring villages of
Lanneburg and Novalese have no other means of subsist-
ence than carrying passengers over the mountain. It is
therefore their interest to render it impassable to any but
themselves, so that the whole passage of fifteen miles, is
covered with great loose pieces of rock, which must be
clambered over: the guides skip from one piece to another
like goats, and go at the rate of five or six miles an hour ;
but my unfortunate companions could not proceed at this
pace; so every ten minutes we had to wait for them—As I
was carried down in an armed chair, fastened to poles and
slung upon straps, in the manner of our sedans, between
two men and in which I soon felt tolerably at my ease; I
had the pleasure of seeing them continually: sometimes in
the clouds, and at others nothing visible but their heads,
which was rather amusing to me, knowing they were in no

danger, especially as Mr. F ay had affected to make veryrat GA Reel ad

pe ae re

cote eet te sere eee Reena :
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i a 4s Same és reyee Es * RAC: CR Awe x . ~ A
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PEA ave te atee ke on a gen 8 Teo tA Sy Oe a

   

58 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

light of it, and even said “I might walk very well if I
chose it,’ but when we reached the bottom, he told a
very different tale, and stormed violently at his own suffer-
ings. The drollest part of our procession was, that of the
poor mule which bore our chaise in a kind of machine, on
its back; and another with the two wheels placed on each
side, in the oddest way imaginable. A good night’s rest
put us all in good humour, and we proceeded cheerfully
forty miles along a very delightful road, for the most part
planted with double rows of trees, to Turin, where we
remained three days and were much amused; but having
crossed the mountain, I must allow myself and you a little
Test.

June, 26th—I was more pleased with the Palace at
Turin than any other I have met with during our journey,
not for its external appearance certainly, for that is un-
promising, but the inside simply atones for the deficiency.
The rooms are all in long ranges, opening into each other
by doors, which by folding within the pannels become
invisible. The furniture is beyond description rich and
elegant, but the best part of every finely decorated house
must ever be the paintings, and this palace seemed to say,
“You are already in Italy:” like a true Englishwoman
however, I looked more, I believe, at a picture of our
Charles the first, and afterwards at one by Vandyke of that
unfortunate monarch’s three children, than at any other in
the collection. The face of the King is exquisitely done,
but his dress struck me as too fine, and withal so stiff, that
I could not admire it. Poor Charles! we are tempted to
forget the errors of the Prince, in considering the amiable
qualities and long sufferings of the man: nor is it possible
to contemplate the benevolent melancholy of his counte-

PT Te
eer ai ree rg tp ok ee |

os A
eae re ea LRrte ire pee et plier are re

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 59

mance, and credit every accusation of his enemies. I
looked on his mild penetrating eyes, till my own were
suffused with tears. As to his children, they are the
Sweetest creatures I ever beheld; and to see them thus,
was perhaps the more pleasant, from a consciousness of its
being the only period wherein they could communicate
that sensation to a reflecting mind.—There was no tracing
the selfish, and eventually, callous libertine in Charles;
nor the tyrant and bigot in James; all seems playful grace,
and dignified gentleness; and the painter appears to have
given a kind of royal polish to the beauty (certainly far
beyond nature) which he had so happily depicted in these
unfortunate children. Among what I deemed the most
curious portraits, were those of Martin Luther, and his
wife. I have frequently meditated on this great character,
and always felt myself so much obliged to him (especially
since my residence in a Catholic country, ) that I confess I
was disappointed to see him a homely, and rather vulgar
looking man. I cannot believe this is a good likeness; at
least the one I saw of him in the abbey of St Bertin at St
Omers left a very different impression on my mind. The
Reformer might not be handsome, in the common accepta-
tion of the word, but surely, penetration courage and firm-
hess must have stampt their expression on his features.
Here is a terrible representation of another great man, tho’
in my opinion deficient in the first mentioned quality (Sir
Thomas Moore) of his head rather, for it appears just
severed from the body; his daughter has fainted at the
horrible spectacle; and her complexion is so exactly what
it should be, that the whole scene appears natural, and you
feel too much for her, even to offer her restoratives to life
and misery. I would not live in the same room with such

. “a ga
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Sethe or Na a ere epee orien ae gE

   
  
  
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
    
    
   
   

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60 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

a picture for the world; it would be worse than the cave of
Trophonious.

I was doomed to experience another disappointment in
what is affirmed to be a faithful portrait of Petrarch’s
Laura, which I had fancied was like the Venus of Apelles,
an assemblage of all that was lovely and eraceful in woman.
You remember my saying, that it was worth all the pains I
took in learning Italian, to read his sonnets in praise of
this idolized being. So no wonder that I ran eagerly to
seize on features that had inspired such verses, and awak-
ened such tender constancy as Petrarch displayed. Judge
then how disagreeably I was surprised at seeing a little red-
haired, formal looking, old maidish thing, no more like the
beauty in “my mind’s eye” than “I to Hercules. . . .”
Petrarch too was as ugly as needs be. Well, well, they are
not the only couple seen to most advantage in their Poetic
dress. What further I have to say about the Palace, must
be very concise. I cannot help informing you though,
that we saw the King of Sardinia at mass with his whole
family but none of them seem to be remarkable for beauty.
Though not esteemed rich, yet he lives in great splendour ;
the furniture of his state bed-chamber, even to the frames
of the chairs, is all of massive silver.°

The Theatre is a vast building and so magnificent in
every respect, that nothing you have seen can give you any
idea of it; the stage is so extensive, that when they want to
exhibit battles, triumphant entries, or any kind of srand
show they have room enough to produce the finest effect,
and really seem to transport you to the scene they would
represent. It is not uncommon to have fifty or sixty horses,
at a time upon this stage, with triumphal cars, thrones
&c &c. The King’s box, is consistent with his superb Pal-os ee einen ee ee

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 61

ace; it is as large as a handsome parlour, and lined through-
out with mirrors, which have a beautiful effect, as they
reflect the stage and thus double the display of its grand
processions &c: all the boxes in this Theatre are neat and
commodious; furnished with chairs and curtains, so that if
the party choose to be retired they are at full liberty; and,
as coffee and other refreshments are served, they frequently
pay little attention to the Stage, except when some cele-
brated performer or grand spectacle excites their curiosity.
There is a smaller Theatre, which opens when this is closed,
but I did not see it. I visited the royal gardens, but
thought them very uninteresting, as all appear after those
that surround the seats of our English Nobility and gentry;
and on running thro’ another Palace, an academy and

various other places, nothing struck me as sufficiently novel
to merit your attention; and, I have written such an in-
tolerably long letter, that I must conclude for the present,

tho’ I mean to bring you on my journey to-morrow, as I
have not yet told you half that is on my mind; but there
is such an uncertainty in my present movements, that it is
desirable not to lose a single day in forwarding a letter.
Believe me however and wherever I may be,

most affectionately yours,

E. F.

IN CONTINUATION

Leghorn, 28th June.

I RESUME my journal of yesterday which I shall now
inclose in this; I am still waiting a summons for departure,
and anxious to say all I can, to my dear friends, before what
may probably be a long adieu. From Turin we sat out on

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
   

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62 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

the 26th ultimo, to Genoa, a distance of 130 miles; and
now I own my courage begun to fail; for having been some
days ill, I grew so much worse, from the motion of the
chaise, that we were obliged to stop and get Mr. Fay’s
horse ready for me to ride, which was a great ease to me;
but notwithstanding this relief, on the second evening I was
seized with every symptom of fever, and that of the most
violent kind; “Well,” thought I, “it is all over with me
for a week at least; but thank God I was mistaken, for at
two o'clock in the morning, I fell into the most profuse
perspiration I ever experienced, which, tho’ it exceedingly
weakened me, yet considerably abated the disorder, and
altho’ I felt ill, dispirited, and every way unfit to travel, yet
I made a sad shift to pursue my journey.

Unfortunately, in coming out of Alessandria the place
where I had been so ill, we had a wide river to ford, and
there was no way for poor miserable me to get over, but
by Mr. Fay’s taking me before him across the mare, which
was tolerably well accomplished. When he had landed me
safe he went back, and with great difficulty whipped the
old horse through; he was up to the girth in water, and I
expected every moment, he would break the chaise to pieces
for he frequently attempted to lie down. When we had
overcome this difficulty we continued in tolerable spirits,
until our arrival next day at the Buchetta, an appenine
mountain, by the side of which Mont Cenis would appear
contemptible; it is near twenty miles over, without any
plain at the top, so that no sooner do you reach its summit,
than you turn short, and descend immediately. Had the
weather proved fine, the prospect from this prodigious
eminence must have been glorious; but so thick a fog
enveloped us, that we could not distinguish any thing ofORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 63

five yards distance, and the cold was as piercing as with us
in January. Never shall I forget the sense of wearisome,
overbearing desolateness, which seemed to bow down both
my body and mind at this juncture. I felt‘a kind of
dejection unknown before through all my peregrinations,
and which doubtless tended to increase the unusual fears
that operated on my mind, when we arrived at the end of
this day’s journey. It was nearly dark; the Inn was little
better than a large barn or hovel, and the men we found in
it, so completely like all we conceive of Banditti, and
assassins, that every horrible story I had heard or read of,
instantly came into my head: and I perceived that the
thoughts of my companions were occupied in the same
painful way; our looks were the only medium of com-
munication we could use, for we were afraid of speaking,
lest we should accelerate the fate we dreaded. Every thing
around us combined to keep alive suspicion and strengthen
fear; we were at a distance from every human habitation:
various whisperings, and looks directed towards us, continu-
ally passed amongst the men, and we fancied they were
endeavouring to find whether we had any concealed arms.
When we retired for the night worn out as we were, not
one dared to sleep and surely never night appeared so
long. With the earliest dawn we departed, and as the
people saw us set out without offering us any injury,
we are now persuaded that we wronged them: but yet
the impression made upon our minds will not easily be
effaced: we feel as if we had escaped some projected
mischief,
We arrived pretty early at Genoa, a grand but gloomy
disagreeable city, owing to the houses being very high, and
the streets so narrow you might almost shake hands across

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AEE OS Ie hb eel ae gon

  

64 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

them out of the window. It abounds with magnificent
Churches and Palaces, principally built of the most beauti-
ful marble, at least they are faced and ornamented with it.
Their roofs flat, and rendered very agreeable gardens, by
flowering shrubs, little arbours, covered with wood-bine and
jessamine, elegant verandahs, awnings &c. In these the
ladies wander from morning to night.—As far as I can hear
or see, they are more remarkable for pride than any thing
else. Their dress costly, but heavy and unbecoming, except
so far as they manage their veils, which are so contrived as
to give very good play to a pair of fine eyes. They wear
rouge; but apply it better than the French ladies, who may
be said rather to plaster than to paint: when the best
however is made of this practice it is still a very hateful
one in my opinion.—I went to view the Palaces of Doria,
Doraggio, and Pallavicini, where are many fine pictures and
statues; but the rooms are so large, and so many of them
are only half furnished, that they had on the whole an
uncomfortable look. I was much pleased with several of
the churches; the Cathedral is completely lined with
marble, but I was attracted more by the Jesuits’ church on
account of the paintings, though, I have neither health nor
spirits to enter into a particular description of them. The
assumption of the Virgin by Guido, is a most delightful
performance to my taste. I always admire his pictures, but
being simply an admirer, without knowledge on the subject,
I seldom hazard a remark as to the manner in which a piece
is executed.—The theatre here is large, but not to be
compared with that at Turin. The gardens are every
where in the same style, all neat and trim, like a desert
Island in a pastry cook’s shop, with garnish and frippery
enough to please a Dutchman. There are many admirableye ob ad

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 65

churches in this city; but its chief boast, in my opinion,
consists in being the birth place of Columbus, who was
undoubtedly a great man, and from his talents, firmness,
wisdom and misfortunes, entitled to inspire admiration and
pity. I often thought of him, as I passed these streets and
was ready to exclaim, you were not worthy of such a Citizen.
The velvets, goldwork, and artificial flowers manufactured
here, are said to be unrivalled; but I made no purchases for
very obvious reasons.

We saw a very grand procession on Corpus Christi
day, at which the Doge assisted, and all the principal
nobility, clothed in their most magnificent habiliments,
and each carrying a lighted taper; several images also,
adorned with jewels (as I was informed) to an almost in-
credible amount, were borne along to grace the spectacle.
It is to be lamented that, this noble city should disgrace
itself by the encouragement given to assasination, for a
man after committing half a score murders, has only to
take a boat which nobody prevents him from doing, and
claim the protection of any foreign ship, which none dares
to refuse, and there he remains in safety. Mr. Fay saw
five of these wretches on board one vessel. What you have
heard respecting the custom of married women in Italy
being attended by their Cicisbeos, is perfectly true. They
speak of it with all the indifference imaginable. Surely,
after all that has been said, the usage must be an innocent
one, if any thing can be called so which tends to separate
the affections of husband and wife, and that, the constant
attendance, the profound respect of another man, must be
likely to effect. Altogether it is a vile fashion, make the
best of it, and I heartily hope never to see such a mode
adopted in old England.PRRs Be Sur ree Peg te ee eV eae My te od
Dr nah a haat bos A Ey oh ct See Ac EO Re i

Cesk ea att ae ya sos i SS
Lay n Bek CECE Pe a ee tay pars
ered pa Soh wea pcs Uy ad Be

  

66 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

eae A eee

We sold our horses at Genoa, for about three guineas
profit—and no more, as Mr. Fay embraced the first offer
that was made him. You who know me, will be well
aware, that I could not part with these mute but faithful
companions of our journey without a sigh. Far different
were my sensations on bidding adieu to our fellow traveller
Mr. B—r, who left us on our arrival at this place. My
first impression of his character was but too just, and every
day’s experience more fully displayed a mind, estranged
from all that was praise worthy, and prone to every species
of vice. He professed himself almost an Atheist, and I
am persuaded, had led the life of one; it was perhaps for-
tunate that his manners were as disgusting as his principles
were wicked, and that he constantly reminded one, of that
expression of the Psalmist “the Foo/ hath said in his heart
there is no God’’; as the comment, he was but a fool, rose
to remembrance at the same moment.

We took our passage in a Felucca from Genoa, and
arrived here in thirty three hours. My first message was
to the Post Office, where was only one letter for me, dated
10th May. I am impatient for more, being kept in daily
expectation of sailing, and it would be mortifying to leave
any behind. I must now conclude; believe me,

Ever most affectionately your’s,

E. F.

Sean} PO eaten ee es pa at Pee ety
PECL 2 Sear malo PF FS npr ROE ran uae

P. §. I open this to say, our letters and remittances are
arrived. Ten thousand thanks for your kindness, but I
have not time to add another word.

Se ee ey eeSth A

 

Letter V

On board the Hellespont,
OvuTER Mote, Lecuorn.

July 2nd, 1779.
My Dear Frienps,

You may perceive from this date that I have quitted
Leghorn, but how I came to take up my quarters here,
cannot be explained, till after the relation of some par-
ticulars which I must first notice, in order to proceed regu-
larly with my journal.

Our letter of introduction from Mr. Baretto ‘ of London
to his brother, the king of Sardinia’s Consul at Leghorn,
procured us the kindest attentions from that gentleman and
his family, indeed they were so friendly to us in every
respect, that I soon felt all the ease of old acquaintance in
their society, and shall ever remember them, with sentiments
of the most cordial esteem. Through this kind family I
Saw whatever was worthy of note in Leghorn, and its
environs; but my increasing anxiety as to our journey, took
from me all power of investigation. When one sees merely
with the eye, and the wandering mind is travelling to the
friends left far behind, or forward to the unknown clime
whither its destiny points, few recollections of places and
things will remain on it. But: far different will be its

recognition of persons. When these have softened an
anxious hour by kindness, or relieved its irksomeness, by

smiles and gaiety, the heart will register their action and
6768 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

their image, and gratitude engrave their names on the tablet
of remembrance. What a romantic flight! methinks I hear
you exclaim; but consider, this is the land of Poesy, surely,
I may be permitted to evince a little of its spirit. I shall
never forget that Leghorn contains the Baretti’s, and
Franco’s. The latter are eminent merchants; the house
has been established above a century. The eldest of the
present family is above eighty years of age; a most vener-
able and agreeable old man; with more of active kindness
and benevolent politeness, than I ever met with in one,
so far advanced in life, and who has seen so much of the
world. He not only shewed us every attention during our
stay, but has given us a letter recommending us in the
strongest terms to a Mr. Abraham, of Grand Cairo; which
should Mr. Baldwin, the East India Company’s resident,
be absent when we arrive there, may prove useful. At all
events, we are equally indebted to Mr. Franco’s friendly
intentions.

We have often boasted of the superiority of the British
flag, but alas poor old England! her flag is here humbled
in the dust: we have several ships in the mole, but if one
dare venture out, so many French Privateers are hovering
round, that she must be taken in a few hours. I pity the
poor Captains from my heart, but the person for whom I
feel most interested, is a Captain Les—r of the Hellespont,
(Mr. P—’s relation). I cannot express half what I owe to
his civility. From the moment he knew of my probable
connection with his family, he has uniformly shown us every
possible attention. His situation is very disagreeable, to be
forced either to abandon so fine a ship, or incur almost a
certainty of being taken prisoner in her, as she must soon
venture out; for she has already eaten her head off, by

0

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A diol rn pad
: Gl i Oa
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hi ae mem rr are ater PTE.

  
  
   
  
   
 
 
   
 
 
   
 
  
   
    
   
    
 
  
   
  
   
 

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 69

lying here a whole twelvemonth on expence, as such is the
deplorable state of our commerce in the Mediterranean,
that no one will now underwrite an English ship at any
premium. I think the number lying here is seven, and
believe they intend soon to make a bold push together; but

it will be all in vain; they never can get through the Straits
of Gibraltar, unmolested.

4.o'clock p.m. A Hard Gale.

I told you this morning what reason I had to esteem
Captain L.— He is now entitled to at least a double
portion of my gratitude, if estimated by the service done.
As there was no likelihood of meeting with an English
vessel, we engaged a passage in a Swedish one, called the
Julius, Captain Norberg, for Alexandria, at £6 each, (cheap |
enough you will say); and had all in readiness: so last |
night I quitted the shores of Europe, God knows for how
long: his will be done. Captain L.— as his ship lay next
but one to our’s, and we were not to sail ’till day break,
oftered us his cabin, because, as he very considerately ob-
served, we could not sleep comfortably in our own, amidst
the noise of preparing for Sea. I readily complied, well
knowing the advantages of his proposal, having already
dined several times on board the Hellespont, which is kept
clean and in good order, equal to the nicest house I ever
saw. This morning the Julius went out to the Road, and
we prepared to follow; but just at that time arose a sudden
squall of thunder and lightning, succeeded by a very strong
gale of wind; the poor Julius was forced to drop anchor,
and there she lies, two miles off, pitching (driving piles
Captain L— calls it) and has just struck her lower yards;een a TU ge

are aie aces

ERE Te Th
2, OAC I ca

|) Raecces

   
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   

 

70 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

she slipped one cable two hours ago, but the other brought
her up. I see her now and would not exchange cabins for
a trifle.

Several vessels have been driven in, in distress; one
dashed directly against the Hellespont and snapped her
Bowsprit short; we had but just time to secure the poop
lanthorn from the stroke of another; the zron was torn away,
so you may guess it blows smartly, but I feel perfectly easy.
I am luckily sheltered now, and no one shall persuade me
to leave this ship ’till all is over, and the weather settled
again. I doubt we shall not be able to sail this day or two,
for the wind is rising; but so that we arrive, time enough
to save our season at Suez, all will be well. Tea is waiting,
and they are tormenting me to death. Adieu. God bless

you all, prays,
Your affectionate

EB. E:Beas Nena |

em &

m a rae eae SEM TSE Pao nl Gk, Ue
a Ba se alas a or el ioe ORR
= a Sieg Reece
cine =

a ad oe »)
SILT

 

Letter VI

  
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
  
 

Ship Julius at sea, 20th July, 1779.
I nope, my dear friends will safely receive my letter of the
2nd Instant, from Leghorn, wherein I mentioned the kind-
ness of Captain L.— and our situation in his Ship. We
remained with him ’till Sunday evening, when we embarked
on the Julius, and the following morning, sailed with a fair
wind; but it changed in less than six hours, and came on
so strong, that we were forced to put back again and cast
anchor. The gale lasted ’till Wednesday evening ; however
we made shift to ride it out, though we were continually
paying out cable (as it is called;) and expected every
moment to be driven on shore.

When the weather moderated, Mr. Franco sent of a
letter to Mr. Fay, stating that he had just heard from Mr.
Abraham of Grand Cairo, who was about to proceed to
Europe, with his family, by the first ship ; therefore to guard
against any future disappointment, this kind gentleman
inclosed a general letter to the Jewish merchants, Mr.
Franco’s name being well known throughout the East.
Having already seven letters of introduction to persons in
Grand Cairo, we shall not, I imagine, have occasion to
make use of this.

On Thursday the 8th, we ventured to sail once more,
and have hitherto gone on pleasantly enough.

Tuesday, 20th July. Since my last date, I have been
a good deal vexed at an accident which, perhaps, will appear

very trivial. I had a pair of beautiful pigeons given me at
71

 

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Ty ny Re

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

72 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Leghorn, which furnished me with much amusement.
These pretty little creatures, their wings being cut, ranged
at liberty about the ship. At length one of them fell, or
rather was blown overboard. I saw it a long while
struggling for life, and looking towards the vessel, as if to
implore assistance; yet, notwithstanding my fondness for
the poor bird, and anxious desire to extricate it from its
perilous situation, if such a thing were possible, I could
not even wish that, a ship running eight knots an hour,
should be hove to, and a boat sent out after a Pigeon. The
widowed mate lived only three days afterwards, never
touching a morsel of food, from the time the other dis-
appeared, and uttering, at intervals, the most plaintive
sounds, which I could not avoid hearing, my cabin being
upon deck. For you must know, it is a regulation on
board Swedish vessels, that the whole ship’s company join
twice a day, in devotional exercises; so Capt. Norberg
reserved his great Cabin for the purpose, of assembling
them together, or we would willingly have engaged it. So
much for my little favourites. I shall now advert to a
more chearful topic.

My voyage has been rendered very interesting, and
instructive, by the conversation of one of our passengers, a
Franciscan Friar, from Rome, who is going as a Missionary
to Jerusalem; and in my opinion no man can be better
calculated for the hazardous office he has undertaken.
Figure to yourself, a man in the prime of life (under forty),
tall, well made, and athletic in his person; and seemingly
of a temperament to brave every danger: add to these
advantages a pair of dark eyes, beaming with intelligence,
and a most venerable auburn beard, descending nearly to his
girdle, and, you cannot fail to pronounce him, irresistible.

Scns ae Sew
mit Aeen gerdiote ee tdi a ae oled pp oe
7 TAT RST Pe ge Se ok opie ae

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 73

He appears also to possess, all the enthusiasm and eloquence
necessary for pleading the important cause of Christianity;
yet one must regret that so noble a mind, should be warped
by the belief of such ridiculous superstitions, as disgrace
the Romish creed.—He became extremely zealous for my
conversion, and anxiously forwarded my endeavours, after
improvement in the Italian language, that I might the more
readily comprehend the arguments, he adduced to effect
that desirable purpose. Like other disputants, we some-
times used to contend very fiercely, and one day on my
speaking rather lightly of what he chose to call, a miracle
of the Catholic Church, he even went so far as to tell me,
that my mouth spouted forth heresies, as water gushes from
a fountain.

This morning (the 22nd) at breakfast, he intreated me to
give up my coffee, as a libation to the bambino (child)
Jesus, and on my declining to do so, urged me with the
most impressive earnestness, to spare only a single cup,
which he would immediately pour out in honour of the
Blessed Infant. Professing my disbelief in the efficacy of
such a sacrifice, I again excused myself from complying
with his request: upon which declaring that he was equally
shocked at my willful incredulity and obstinate heresy he
withdrew to another part of the vessel, and I have not seen
him since.

23rd a. M. We are now off Alexandria, which makes a
fine appearance from the sea on a near approach; but being
built on low ground, is, as the seamen say “very difficult to
hit.” We were two days almost abreast of the Town.
There is a handsome Pharos or light-house in the new
harbour, and it is in all respects far preferable; but no
vessels belonging to Christians can anchor there, so weBe Ue

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74 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

were forced to go into the old one, of which however we
escaped the dangers, if any exist.’

My acquaintance with the Reverend Father has
terminated rather unpleasantly. A little while ago being
upon deck together, and forgetting our quarrel about the
libation, I made a remark on the extreme heat of the
weather, “Aye” replied he, with a most malignant expres-
sion of countenance, such as I could not have thought it
possible, for a face benign like his to assume, “aye you will
find it ten thousand times hotter in the Devil’s House”
(Nella Casa di Diavolo). I pitied his bigotry and prayed
for his conversion to the genuine principles of that religion,
whose doctrines he professed to teach.

Mr. Brandy ° to whom Mr. Fay sent ashore an intro-
ductory letter, came on board to visit us. I rejoice to hear
from him, that there are two ships at Suez, yet no time
must be lost, lest we miss the season. This gentleman
resides here, as Consul for one of the German Courts, and
may be of great use to us. We received an invitation to
sup with him to-morrow; he has secured a lodging for us,
and engaged a Jew and his wife to go with us to Grand
Cairo as dragoman, (or interpreter) and attendant: should
we proceed by water, which is not yet decided on, Mr. B—
will provide a proper boat. I am summoned to an early
dinner, immediately after which we shall go on shore with
our Dragoman, that we may have time to view whatever is
remarkable.

24th July. Having mounted our asses, the use of
horses being forbidden to any but musselmans, we sallied
forth preceded by a Janizary, with his drawn sword,
about three miles over a sandy desert, to see Pompey’s
Pillar, esteemed to be the finest column in the World. This2 Ae ly

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 75

pillar which is exceedingly lofty, but I have no means of
ascertaining its exact height, is composed of three blocks
of Granite; (the pedestal, shaft, and capital, each contain-
ing one). When we consider the immense weight of the
granite, the raising such masses, appear beyond the powers
of man. Although quite unadorned, the proportions are
so exquisite, that it must strike every beholder with a kind
of awe, which softens into melancholy, when one reflects
that the renowned Hero whose name it bears, was treacher-
ously murdered on this very Coast, by the boatmen who were
conveying him to Alexandria; while his wretched wife
stood on the vessel he had just left, watching his departure,
as we may naturally suppose, with inexpressible anxiety.
What must have been her agonies at the dreadful event!
Though this splendid memorial bears the name of Pompey,
it is by many supposed to have been erected in memory of
the triumph, gained over him at the battle of Pharsalia.
Leaving more learned heads than mine to settle this dis-
puted point, let us proceed to ancient Alexandria, about a
league from the modern town; which presents to the eye
an instructive lesson on the instability of all sublunary
objects. This once magnificent City, built by the most
famous of all Conquerors, and adorned with the most
exquisite productions of art, is now little more than a
heap of Ruins; yet the form of the streets can still be
discerned; they were regular, and many of ‘the houses
(as I recollect to have read of Athens) had fore-courts
bounded by dwarf walls, so much in the manner of our
Lincoln’s-Inn Fields, that the resemblance immediately
struck me.

We saw also the outside of St. Athanasius’s Church, who
was Bishop of this Diocese, but it being now a Mosque

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76 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

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were forbidden to enter, unless on condition of turning
mahometans, or losing our lives, neither of which alterna-
tives exactly suited my ideas, so that I deemed it prudent to
repress my curiosity. I could not however resist a desire
to visit the Palace of Cleopatra, of which few vestiges
remain. The marble walls of the Banqueting room are
yet standing, but the roof is long since decayed. Never
do I remember being so affected by a like object. I stood
in the midst of the ruins, meditating on the awful scene,
till I could almost have fancied I beheld its former mis-
tress, revelling in Luxury, with her infatuated lover, Marc
Anthony, who for her sake lost all.

The houses in the new Town of Alexandria thro’ which
we returned, are flat roofed, and, in general, have gardens
on their tops. These in some measure, in sO warm a
country, may be called luxuries. As to the bazars (or
markets) they are wretched places, and the streets exceed-
ingly narrow. Christians of all denominations live here on
paying a tax, but they are frequently ill treated; and if one
of them commits even an unintentional offence against a
musselman, he is pursued by a most insatiable spirit of
revenge and his whole family suffers for it. One cannot
help shuddering at the bare idea of being in the hands of
such bigotted wretches. I forgot to mention that Mr.
Brandy met us near Cleopatra’s needles, which are two
immense obelisks of Granite. One of them, time has
levelled with the ground; the other is intire; they are both
covered with hieroglyphic figures, which, on the sides not
exposed to the wind and sand from the Desert, remain un-
injured; but the key being lost, no one can decypher their
meaning. I thought Mr. B— might perhaps have heard
something relative to them; he, however, seems to know

a ie trae
Sore oan EeORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 77

no more than ourselves. A droll circumstance occurred
on our return. He is a stout man of a very athletic make,
and above six feet high; so you may judge what a curious
figure he must have made, riding on an ass, and with
difficulty holding up his long legs to suit the size of the
animal; which watched an opportunity of walking away
from between them, and left the poor Consul standing,
erect, like a Colossus: in truth, it was a most ludicrous
scene to behold.
25th July. The weather being intensely hot, we staid
at home ’till the evening, when Mr. Brandy called to escort
us to his house. We were most graciously received by
Mrs. B— who is a native of this place; but as she could
speak a little Italian, we managed to carry on something like
conversation. She was most curiously bedizened on the
occasion, and being short, dark complexioned, and of a
complete dumpling shape, appeared altogether the strangest
lump of finery I had ever beheld; she had a handkerchief
bound round her head, covered with strings composed of
thin plates of gold, in the manner of spangles but very
large, intermixed with pearls and emeralds; her neck and
bosom were ornamented in the same way. Add to all this
an embroidered girdle with a pair of gold clasps, I verily
think near four inches square, enormous earrings, and a
large diamond sprig on the top of her forehead, and you
must allow, that altogether she was a most brilliant figure.
They have a sweet little girl about seven years of age, who
was decked out much in the same style; but she really
looked pretty in spite of her incongruous finery. On the
whole, though, I was pleased with both mother and child,
their looks and behaviour were kind: and to a stranger
in a strange land (and this is literally so to us) a little atten-

 

 

   
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

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78 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

tion is soothing and consolatory; especially when one feels
surrounded by hostilities, which every European must do
here. Compared with the uncouth beings who govern
this country, I felt at home among the natives of France,
and I will even say of Italy.

On taking leave, our Host presented a book containing
certificates of his great politeness and attention towards
travellers; which were signed by many persons of con-
sideration: and at the same time requesting that Mr. Fay
and myself would add owr names to the list, we com-
plied, though not without surprize, that a gentleman
in his situation, should have recourse to such an ex-
pedient, which cannot but degrade him in the eyes of
his Guests.

It being determined that we shall proceed by water, for
reasons too tedious to detail at present, I must now prepare
to embark. I shall endeavour to keep up my spirits. Be
assured that I will omit no opportunity of writing, and
comfort yourselves with the idea, that before ¢hzs reaches
you, I shall have surmounted all my difficulties. I certainly
deem myself very fortunate in quitting this place so soon.
Farewell; all good be with you, my ever ever dear Friends

prays,
Your own,

E. F.en ey AW die Ue

 

Letter VII

Grand Cairo, 27th August, 1779.
My Dear Frienps, In coming to this place, we were in
great peril, and bade adieu to the sea at the hazard of our
lives, the Bar of the Nile being exceedingly dangerous.
Fourteen persons were lost there, the day before we crossed
it, a circumstance that of course tended to increase our
anxiety on the subject, and which was told me just before
I closed my last letter; but for the world I would not have
communicated such intelligence. Our only alternative to
this hazardous passage, was crossing a desert, notorious for
the robberies and murders committed on it; where we
could not hope for escape, and from the smallness of our
number, had no chance of superiority in case of attack.
The night after we had congratulated ourselves on being
out of danger from the bar, we were alarmed by perceiving
a boat making after us, as the people said, to plunder, and
perhaps, to murder us. Our Jew interpreter, who, with
his wife, slept in the outer cabin, begged me not to move
our dollars, which I was just attempting to do, lest the
thieves should hear the sound, and kill us all, for the
supposed booty. You may judge in what a situation we
remained, while this dreadful evil seemed impending over
us. Mr. Fay fired two pistols, to give notice of our being
armed. At length, thank God, we out-sailed them; and
nothing of the kind occurred again, during our stay on
board; though we passed several villages, said to be in-
habited entirely by thieves.
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80 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

As morning broke, I was delighted with the appearance
of the country, a more charming scene my eyes never
beheld. The Nile, that perpetual source of plenty, was
just beginning to overflow its banks; so that on every side,
we saw such quantities of water drawn up for the use of
more distant lands, that it is surprising any remains. The
machine chiefly used for that purpose is a wheel with
earthen pitchers tied round it, which empty themselves into
tubs, from whence numerous canals are supplied. Oxen
and Buffaloes are the animals generally employed in this
labour. It is curious to see how the latter contrive to keep
themselves cool during the intense heat that prevails here;
they lie in the River by hundreds, with their heads just
above water, for hours together.

Rosetta * is a most beautiful place, surrounded by groves
of lemon and orange trees; and the flat roofs of the houses
have gardens on them, whose fragrance perfumes the air.
There is an appearance of cleanliness in it, the more gratify-
ing to an English eye, because seldom met with in any
degree, so as to remind us of what we are accustomed to
at home. The landscape around, was interesting from its
novelty, and became peculiarly so on considering it as the
country where, the children of Israel sojourned. The
beautiful, I may say, the unparalleled story of Joseph and
his brethren, rose to my mind as I surveyed those Banks,
on which the Patriarch sought shelter for his old age; and
where his self convicted sons bowed down before their
younger brother, and I almost felt as if in a dream, so
wonderful appeared the circumstance of my being here.
You will readily conceive that, as I drew near Grand
Cairo, and beheld those prodigies of human _ labour,
the Pyramids of Egypt, these sensations were still moreORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 81

strongly awakened; and I could have. fancied myself an
inhabitant of a world, long passed away: for who can
look on buildings, reared, (moderately computing the
time) above three thousand years ago, without seeming to
step back as it were, in existence, and live through days,
now gone by, and sunk in oblivion “like a tale that is
told.”

Situated as I was, the Pyramids * were not all in sight,
but I was assured that those which came under my eye,
were decidedly the most magnificent. We went out of
our way to view them nearer, and by the aid of a telescope,
were enabled to form a tolerable idea of their construction.
It has been supposed by many that the Israelites built these
Pyramids, during their bondage in Egypt, and I rather
incline to that opinion; for, altho’ it has lately been proved
that they were intended to serve as repositories for the dead,
yet each, being said to contain only one sarcophagus, this
circumstance, and their very form, rendered them of so
little comparative use, that most probably, they were raised
to furnish employment for multitudes of unfortunate slaves:
and who more aptly agree with this description, than the
wretched posterity of Jacob? I understand there is a little
flat, on the tops of the larger Pyramids, from which it is
conjectured that the Egyptians made astronomical observa-
tions. The largest, is said to be, above five hundred feet
high, perpendicularly. The inclined plane must measure
much more: the steps are nearly three feet distant of the
Pyramids ; though I very anxiously wished to have inspected
them, and the sphinx, prudence forbade me from making
the attempt, as you will allow, when I proceed farther in
my narrative.

On the 29th, we reached Bulac the port of GrandYe a es:

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82 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Cairo, and within two miles of that city, to my great joy;
for on this river, there is either little wind, or else it comes
in squalls, so suddenly, that the boats are often in danger
of being overset, as they carry only, what I believe is called,
a shoulder-of-Mutton-sail, which turns on a sort of swivel,
and is very difficult to manage, when the wind takes it the
wrong way. It seems indeed almost miraculous how we
escaped.

Mr. Fay sat out almost immediately to Mr. Baldwin’s,?
who received him with much civility, and sent an ass for
me, with directions to make all possible haste, as a Caravan
was to set off in three hours.

I must now give you a description of my dress,”° as my
Jewess decked me out, preparatory to our entering the
Great City. I had, in the first place, a pair of trowsers,
with yellow leather half-boots and slippers over them; a
long sattin gown, with wide sleeves, open to the elbows;
and a girdle round my waist, with large silver clasps; over
that another robe with short sleeves: round my head a fine,
coloured, muslin handkerchief, closely bound, but so
arranged that one corner hung down three quarters of a
yard behind. This is the dress for the House; but as I
was going out, she next put on a long robe of silk, like
a surplice, and then covered my face with a piece of muslin,
half a yard wide, which reached from the forehead to the
feet, except an opening for the eyes; over all, she threw a
piece of black silk, long and wide enough to envelop the
whole form; so, thus equipped, stumbling at every step, I
sallied forth, and with great difficulty got across my noble
beast: but, as it was in the full heat of the day and the veil
prevented me from breathing freely, I thought I must have
died by the way. However, at last, I was safely housed,

 

Tem a ey aTORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 83

but found a great change had taken place; all thoughts of
going were now laid aside. I dare not at present enter
into particulars, and can only say that, some thing was
wrong, and on that account we were kept in suspense, ’till
about a week ago, when just as we had determined to pro-
ceed, if possible, another way, matters were adjusted: so
to-morrow afternoon we are to enter on the Desert, and
shall, please God, arrive at Suez, most likely, on Monday,
from whence I propose writing again. The season is so
far advanced that a good passage cannot be expected: we
have no hopes of reaching Calcutta in less than three
months, but at any rate, the voyage is preferable to going
through the long Desert, from Aleppo to Bassora.

When I write from India I will give a full detail of the
affair to which I allude, though as it is very important, you
will, most probably, see the whole in the papers. Adieu
for the present it is bed time.

287h. Again I take up the pen to hold a little further
converse with my dear friends, while waiting the summons
to depart ; and as health is the most important of all earthly
subjects, shall begin with that. It will, I know, give you
pleasure to hear that I have found scarce any inconvenience
from the heat, though all of our Party, who have been in
India agree that, they never felt the weather so oppressively
hot as here; which proceeds from the terrible sandy deserts,
that surround the town, causing the air to smell like hot
bricks. This however I could have borne, but just on our
arrival, there broke out a severe epidemical disease, with
violent symptoms. People are attacked at a moments
warning with dreadful pains in the limbs, a burning fever,
with delirium and a total stoppage of perspiration. During
two days it increases; on the third, there comes on uni-

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84 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

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formly a profuse sweat (pardon the expression) with vomit-
ing, which carries all off—The only remedies prescribed,
are lying in bed and drinking plentifully, even two gallons
a day, of Nile water: no nourishment, and not so much as
gruel, is allowed until after the crisis; not one has died of
the disease, nor, I believe, scarcely one escaped: even the
beasts have been affected. Mr. Fay had it three weeks ago,
and among all I conversed with here, I remained the only
healthy person, and really hoped to have proved the truth
of what is asserted by physicians, that nervous persons are
not subject to be attacked by contagious distempers, not
even by the Plague itself. However, this day sennight, I
was seized with most violent symptoms, so that at the three
days end, my strength seemed entirely exhausted; but I
have, thanks be to Providence, recovered as surprizingly ;
and am already nearly well. It had every sign of the
Plague, except that it was not mortal. Do not be frightened
at the name, but I assure you, it is commonly called “la
queue de la Peste,” and the general opinion is, that had it
arrived in the month of February, the living would scarce
have been sufficient to bury the dead.

Grand Cairo by no means answers to its name at present,
whatever it may have done formerly.—There are certainly
many magnificent houses, belonging to the Beys and other
rich individuals, but as a city, I can perceive neither order,
beauty, nor grandeur; and the contrast between the great,
who seem to wallow in splendour and luxury, and the people
at large, who appear to want the common necessaries of
life, is not more striking, than disgusting; because, those
who are raised above their fellows, do not look, as though
they merited the distinction, either by talent, manners or

_ even the most ordinary pretentions. The Christians (who

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ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 85

are called Franks) live all together in one street, which is
closed at each end every night; a precaution neither un-
pleasant nor useless. An agreeable variety is given to the
appearance of the town by the Mosques, or I should con-
sider the whole wretchedly stupid. A wedding, here, is a
gay and amusing spectacle, from the procession which
accompanies the Bride in all her movements, drums, haut-
boys and every other kind of noise and parade they can
make, seem indispensible: but the circumstance of com-
pletely veiling, not only the face, but the whole figure of
the woman, in the enveloping mantle of black silk, before
described, gives an air of melancholy to these exhibitions.
To show the face is considered here, an act of downright
indecency ; a terrible fashion for one like me, to whom free
air seems the great requisite for existence.

I must not conclude without mentioning a disappoint-
ment I met with. As the fertility of Egypt depends on the
due increase of the Nile, persons are hired to go round
Grand Cairo, twice a day, and report how many inches the
water has risen; returning solemn thanks to Almighty God
for the blessing. This is continued ’till it gain a certain
point, when the Dykes are broken down, and the river flows
majestically into the Canal, formed for its reception; while
the inhabitants hail its approach with every demonstration
of joy. Such was the account I heard, and great was my
anxiety, lest I should not be permitted to witness this
August ceremony. At length the period arrived, but never,
sure, were highly raised expectations more miserably de-
ceived: For this famous Canal, being dry nine months out
of the twelve, and serving during that interval as a recepta-
cle for the filth of a populous, and not over cleanly City, I
leave you to judge, how beautifully pellucéd its waters must

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

Ee irre ete rch ts frien anBean Ceap oe pate ©
o
Dave betg (om fray”

CON i a) Cah esd OP LARA de a

0
og '

     
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  

  

86 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

i a ee

appear: nor could St. Giles’s itself pour forth such an assem-
bly of half naked, wretched creatures, as preceded this so
vaunted stream ; crying aloud,and making all sorts of frantic
gestures, like so many maniacs. Not a decent person could
I distinguish amongst the whole group. So much for this
grand exhibition, which we have abundant cause to wish,
had not taken place, for the vapours arising from such a
mass of impurity, have rendered the heat more intolerable
than ever. My bed chamber overlooks the Canal, so that
I enjoy the full benefit to be derived from its proximity.”

I am now compelled, much against my inclination, to
bid you adieu; for I have a thousand things to do, and this
immense letter has left me little time.

Ever your’s most truly,

&c. &c.

Sern ead
De Ra eh ak mere

cot

ra See Ed

Sate a

a :
Pc =
. .

 

P. S. Not being able to enlarge on the only interesting
subject, has induced me to be rather diffuse on others, as
I wished to convey some information by this, perhaps, last
opportunity, *till our arrival in India; for it is doubtful
whether I may have any safe channel of conveyance from
Suez.

 

ay eC

CREST NST ORG STE SO
Pre Mew eres ore or oe Pg2 One

    
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
  
  
  
 
   
    
  
    

Letter VIII

FROM MR. FAY” TO MR. C.

On Board Ship, in the Red Sea,
Near Suez.
September 1st 1779.
Hownovurep Sir,

I seize the chance of three minutes, to tell you
that we yesterday arrived at Suez from Grand Cairo,
after a journey of three days, over a most dreadful Desert,
where every night we slept under the great canopy of
Heaven, and where we were every hour in danger of being
destroyed, by troops of Arabian robbers. But having .a
little party of English gentlemen, and servants (among
whom I held a principal command) well armed, and under
the orders of Major Baillie, and another military officer,
we marched the whole way in order of battle, and though
we could frequently see superior numbers, they never dared
to molest us.

Your daughter behaved most courageously and_ is
extremely well, considering the extraordinary fatigue she
has undergone. There is another English lady and her
husband on board, which promises to make it an agree-
able voyage. The ship is a very fine one, and we have
a handsome little chamber, and I hope in all things
shall find ourselves well accommodated. We expect to
sail in four hours. The ship is called the Nathalia,

Captain Chenu, a Frenchman, and apparently a very
87POL ee vary Pee aa ee Wee a
Weare ore onsite Wolk baw CDG te 2 as : 7
Cae : ri Er es 2a aS
: eal | on gb Je
Ost Mig ect

  

ae . .
Les iiiy each eyed SEES eae SS See an ren

   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  

ws esememn hate athlete iy tert prt REDE EAA AR RNIN AO OT et LN ENS ENE NET ET

88 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Fa rr a TS
Se et een = A
nce - PI Cas FY

polite good-natured man, which is a great matter in a long

Deer ee ers :

voyage.

I thank God I was never in better health and spirits,
tho’ I never slept during the whole journey on the Desert,
and lived the whole time on bread and water, notwithstand-
ing we had abundance of wine and provisions; but the
heat being excessive, I found no other food agreed with me
so well, and Mrs. Fay by adopting the same diet, preserved
her health also; whereas all the rest were knocked up
before we got half way over that confounded Desert, and
some are now very ill; but I stood it, as well as any Arabian
in the Caravan, which consisted at least of five thousand
people. My wife insists on taking the pen out of my hands,
so I can only say God bless you all.

ST eet oa ac
Ss os See eT CO sb vess

 

My Dear FRIEnpDs
I have not a moments time, for the boat is wait-
ing, therefore can only beg that you will unite with me,
in praising our heavenly Protector for our escape from the
various dangers of our journey. I never could have thought
my constitution was so strong. I bore the fatigues of the
desert, like a Lion, though but just recovering from my
illness. We have been pillaged of almost every thing, by
the Arabs. This is the Paradise of thieves, I think the
whole population may be divided into two classes of them;
those who adopt force, and those who effect their purpose
by fraud. I was obliged to purchase a thick cloak, and
veil, proper for the journey, and what was worse, to wear
them all the way hither, which rendered the heat almost
insupportable.—Never was I more happy, than when I came
.on board; although the ship having been for six weeks in

F aati ic:

 

Whetee,

Te A a Ana any ren Sy gee Re
Rosi Peed eae Read ee tee rome at Ue aE Pes eaeetree Seep ts “7

 

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 89

the hands of the natives, the reason of which I cannot
enlarge on here, is totally despoiled of every article of
furniture; we have not a chair or a table, but as the carpen-
ter makes them, for there is no buying such things here. Our
greatest inconvenience is the want of good water: what can
be procured here, is so brackish, as to be scarcely drinkable.

I have not another moment. God bless you! pray for me
my beloved friends.cart ry nee
ere one,
a a

eR er aaa

PT aed

Sa a ee I

toe

Jaa x

Cr a eehbatit US aCe es ee Acne

ADRIAN a0 a SERED cae RETRAIN

tS
SS Sr oe

 

Letter IX

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

FROM MRS. FAY

Mocha, 13th September 1779.
Tuank Gop MY DEAR FRIENDS, I am once more enabled
to date from a place of comparative liberty, and an Euro-
pean Gentleman having promised me a safe conveyance for
my packet, I shall proceed to give you a hurried and melan-
choly detail of circumstances of which it has been my chiet
consolation to know that you were ignorant. You are of
course impatient to be informed to what I allude; take then
the particulars: but I must go a good way back in order to
elucidate matters, which would otherwise appear mysterious
or irrelevant.”

The East India Company sent out positive orders some
time ago, to prohibit the trade to Suez, as interfering with
their privileges; but as there never was a law made, but
means might be found to evade it, several English merchants
freighted a ship (the Nathalia) from Serampore, a Danish
settlement on the Hooghly, fourteen miles above Calcutta,
whose commander, Vanderfield, a Dane, passed for owner
of the ship and cargo. Mr. O’Donnell one of the persons
concerned, and who had property on board to the amount
of above £20,000, came as passenger, as did Mr. Barrington
the real supercargo, also a freighter, and two Frenchmen,
brothers, named Chevalier. They left Bengal on New
year’s day 1779, and came first to Calicut on the coast of
Malabar, where they arrived in February; found English,

French, Danish and Portuguese Factors, or Consuls
90

 

STRELA aR ee mI RCT
BDO S A AG ge Uw Mo eae oh ER ea Bat et2 ae Ay
Cor ij

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA QI

there; and trade in a flourishing state, so not apprehending
any danger they entered into a contract with one Isaacs,
a rich old Jew, who has great influence with the govern-
ment, to freight them with pepper for Bengal on their
return from Suez; that being the greatest town on the
Coast for that commodity.—The price was settled and £700
paid as earnest. This business arranged, they proceeded
on their voyage; and having luckily disposed of some part
of the cargo at this place, reached Suez with the remainder
in the beginning of June, landed their Goods to the amount
of at least £40,000, and prepared to cross the Desert on
their way to Cairo. The company besides those already
mentioned, consisted of Chenu the second mate, with some
officers and servants, in all twelve Europeans, strengthened
by a numerous body of Arabian guards, camel drivers, &c.,
for the conveyance of their property: more than sufficient
in every body’s opinion; for no one remembered a Caravan
being plundered, for altho’ sometimes the wandering Arabs
were troublesome, yet a few presents never failed to procure
a release from them. Thus were they lulled into a fatal
security; each calculating the profits likely to accrue, and
extremely willing to compound for the loss of a few bales,
should they happen to meet with any strolling depredators,
not even once supposing their lives were in danger, or in-
tending to use their firearms should they be molested.

On Monday the 14th June they left Suez, and next
morning at day break, had travelled about twenty miles
(nearly one third of the way) when suddenly an alarm was
given of an Attack, as they, poor souls, were sleeping across
their baskets (or panniers.) Capt. Barrington on awaking
ordered a dozen bales to be given to them immediately :
but alas! they were already in possession of the whole; for

*%n
Pr)

 

   

92 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

eee ea

——,

the Camel drivers did not defend themselves an instant,
but left their beasts at the mercy of the robbers; who after
detaching a large body to drive them away with their
burthens, advanced towards the passengers. Here I must
request you to pause, and reflect whether it be possible
even for imagination to conceive a more dreadful scene to
those concerned, particularly to Mr. O’Donnell, who from
a concurrence of fortunate circumstances, had in less than
four years realized a fortune of near £30,000; the bulk of
which he laid out in merchandise on the inviting prospect
of gaining 50 Per Cent, and as his health was in a very weak
state proposed retiring to Europe. What must that man
have felt, a helpless spectator of his own ruin. But this
was nothing to what followed on their being personally
attacked. ‘The inhuman wretches not content with strip-
ping them to the skin, drove away their camels, and left
them in a burning sandy Desert, which the feet can scarcely
touch, without being blistered, exposed to the scorching
rays of the sun and utterly destitute of sustenance of every
kind; no house, tree, or even shrub to afford them shelter.
My heart sickens, my hand trembles as I retrace this scene.
Alas! I can too well conceive their situation: I can paint
to myself the hopeless anguish of an eye cast abroad in
vain for succour! but I must not indulge in reflections, let
me simply relate the facts as they occurred. In this
extremity they stopped to deliberate, when each gave his
reasons, for preferring the road he determined to pursue.
Mr. O’Donnell, Chenu, the cook and two others resolved
to retrace their steps back to Suez, which was undoubtedly
the most eligible plan; and after encountering many hard-
ships, they at length, arrived there in safety. Of the re-
maining seven who went towards Cairo, only one survived.

=

I ee ee ere re
prea eL ers Eek ae " eR
ee. ‘ ‘y. Sh Oe eee CERT

ry
mre enn See

: eR Fa ne ee .
i f mee Se ere c :

Fe eT =
terns al
Ss Chae
Piet

 

RIG TPR GT SSS aSFe Oo oa

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 93

—Mr. Barrington being corpulent and short breathed, sunk
under the fatigue the second day; his servant, soon followed
him.—One of the French gentlemen was by this time
become very ill, and his brother perceiving a house at some
miles distance (for in that flat country, one may see a great
way,) prevailed on him to lie down under a stunted tree,
with his servant, while he endeavoured to procure some
water, for want of which the other was expiring. Hope,
anxiety, and affection combined to quicken his pace, and
rendered poor Vanderfield, the Danish captain, unable to
keep up with him, which he most earnestly strove to do.
I wept myself almost blind; as the poor Frenchman related
his sufferings from conflicting passions; almost worn out
with heat and thirst, he was afraid of not being able to
reach the house, though his own life and that of his brother,
depended on it. On the other hand the heart piercing
cries of his fellow sufferer, that he was a dead man unless
assisted by him, and conjuring him for God’s sake, not to
leave him to perish now they were in view of relief, arrested
his steps and agonised every nerve. Unable to resist the
solemn appeal, for some time he indulged him, ’till finding
that the consequence of longer delay must be inevitable
destruction to both, he was compelled to shake him off.
A servant belonging to some of the party still kept on, and
poor Vanderfield was seen to continue his efforts, ’till at
length nature being completely exhausted, he dropped and
was soon relieved from his miseries by Death. Nor was
the condition of the survivors far more enviable, when
having, with difficulty, reached the building after which
they had toiled so long, it proved to be an uninhabited shed.
Giving himself up for lost, the French gentleman lay down
under shelter of the wall, to await his last moment, (theSener ae
Ber ad fo tp
7

pa et eer TAN
Maple Oe ane Scie er eR Cad
™ ee aoe 5 Beers er,

Scere Tr aes

eer ts eet ee

a

LE hia etm

Se

oom

Se ee pee

pe

ae

ek ae a
1 Seer

  

We Pn terre

page ete L

94 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

servant walked forward and was found dead a little further
on). Now it so happened that an Arabian beggar chanced
to pass by the wall, who seeing his condition, kindly ran to
procure some water, but did not return for an hour. What
an age of torture, of horrible suspense! for if “hope deferred
maketh the heart sick,”’ the sensation must cause ten-fold
anguish at a moment like this.

The unhappy man was mindful of his brother, but
utterly unable to undertake the task himself, he directed
the beggar, as well as he could, to the spot where he had
left him, with a supply of water. But alas! all his en-
deavours to find the unfortunate men were ineffectual, nor
were their bodies ever discovered: It is supposed that they
crept for shelter from the sun, into some unfrequented spot,
and there expired. The survivor by the assistance of the
beggar, reached the hut of a poor old woman, who kindly
received him; and through whose care he was soon restored
to strength, and arrived safely at Cairo, after as miraculous
an escape, as ever human being experienced.

This melancholy story had been mentioned by Mr.
Brandy before I landed at Alexandria, (Oh with what hor-
ror did I hear his brief recital) and the particulars I soon
learnt at Cairo. The subject was in fact closely connected
with my fears and sufferings, at that place, and which I
hinted at the impossibility of my then revealing, neither
could I, for the same reason, give you any account of the
Egyptian Government, lest they should intercept my letter,
altho’ it is necessary you should know a little of it, for the
sake of comprehending what I have further to relate, con-
cerning these unfortunate adventurers.”*

Egypt, then, is governed by twenty four Beys, of whom
one presides over the rest, but this superiority is veryey pr lea gk

 

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 95

precarious; for he holds it no longer than ’till some other
of the number thinks himself strong enough to contend with
him; and as they have here but two maxims in War, the
one to fly, the other to pursue, those contests Jast not long:
the vanquished, should he escape assassination retires up
the country, ’till Fortune changes her aspect: while the vic-
tor takes his place. Thus do their lives pass in perpetual
vicissitudes. To-day a Prince, to-morrow a F ugitive, and
next day a prince again. These things are so common,
that nobody notices them: since they never disturb the
inhabitants or compel them to take part in their disputes.
In order to be a check on these gentlemen, the Grand
Signor sends a Bashaw, to reside among them, whom they
receive with great respect and compliment with presents of
value, pretending the utmost deference for his authority,
but at the same time a strict eye is kept over him, and on
the least opposition to their will, he is sent in disgrace
away—happy if he escape with life, after refunding all his
presents and paying enormous sums besides.

By the above statement you will perceive that, the Beys
are in reality independent, and likewise discern the hinge
on which their politics turn, for as long as under colour
of submission, they consent to receive a Bashaw, it is in
their power constantly to throw the odium of every dis-
agreeable occurrence on his shoulders, under pretence of
Orders from the Porte. Now briefly to proceed with my
little history, some time after the fatal robbery, another
ship called the St. Helena, arrived at Suez, under Danish
colours with the rea] owner, a Mr. Moore, on board. He
justly apprehensive of a similar fate, refused to land his
Cargo ’till the then Chief Amurath Bey, had accorded him
a solemn permission or rather protection, under which heBt

i 3 7

Reg PR eerre  MEROLIe euaN gyda eae ORS
ath) WCE Dia ae RORY bre ae

  
  

aD a now NRE eri Lae + ees 2
centr Ser

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

96 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

safely reached Cairo, disposed of his effects, and prepared
for his return to his ship with a fresh Cargo. But in the
interim, Mr. O’Donnell had been advised to present a
memorial to the Beys, by which he reclaimed his property
as an Englishman, threatened them with the vengeance of
his nation if not immediately redressed, and declared him-
self totally independent of the Danes. This rash procedure
alarmed the people in power, who however still continued
apparently friendly, in hopes of a larger booty, ’till the 30th
July, when they threw off the mask, seized the Caravan
even to the passenger’s baggage, and made Mr. Moore a
prisoner. You may recollect that in my letter from Cairo,
I told you what a hurry Mr. Fay was in, to fetch me from
Bulac, not having, as he then thought, a moments time to
spare. It so happened that I arrived within an hour after
the seizure of the Caravan and when all the gentlemen
concerned, were in the first transports of that indignation,
which such a daring outrage could not fail to excite; at once
exasperated by this treacherous behaviour and alarmed, lest
some new crime should be committed against them.

Every one is of opinion that their design was to cut us
all off, had we gone out ignorant of the seizure of the
Caravan. I had scarcely sat down in Mr. Baldwin’s
parlour, when this terrible news, which seemed to involve
the fate of every European alike, burst upon me like a
stroke of lightning. Never shall I forget the terrors I
felt—: In a few moments the room was filled with
Europeans, chiefly English, all speaking together,—calling
out for arms, and declaring they would sell their lives
dearly; for not one appeared to entertain a doubt of their
being immediately attacked. In the midst of this con-
fusion, Mons. Chevalier (the poor man who escaped from

Ta eee ee
ae ae pent ODP eee entree PCE nee
‘ cred ~ Ciao: Sona ee es Slee Le rath

 

ee

Abie?
- iy ay
r pea
wei
ay
te

ae

Cay IS IE a ee I aa a
Oa Re Ae Were eo SA ee Roe ee Be CrtSAY A
i

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 97

the Desert) cast his eyes upon me, exclaiming “Oh Madam
how unhappy you are in having come to this wretched
place.” This drew the attention of the rest,—and “what
shall we do with the lady?”—was every one’s question—
at last they resolved on sending me to the house of an Ital-
ian Physician, as a place of safety; thither I was instantly
taken by a native, who even in the distress and confusion
of the house, and although the Italian’s was only a few
steps distant across a narrow lane, felt greatly shocked,
because my veil chancing to be a little loose, he could see
one corner of my eye, and severely reprehended the in-
decency of such an exposure.

On reaching my expected Asylum a scene of more
serious alarm (if possible) than I had left at Mr. Baldwins
awaited me. The lady and her daughter were wringing
their hands, and crying out in agony, that they were utterly
ruined—; that all the Europeans would be murdered:
and they even appeared to think, that receiving another of
the proscribed race increased their danger. Imprisonment
and massacre in every shape, were the sole subjects of their
conversation; and so many terrible images did their fears
conjure up, and communicate to my already disordered
mind, that there were times, when the reality could have
been scarcely more appalling. Oh England! dear
England! how often did I apostrophise thee, land of
liberty and safety—: but I must not review my thoughts—;
a simple narrative is all I dare allow myself to write.

For several days we remained in this harrassing state of
suspense, and alarm; at length news arrived that the two
ships which had brought these ill-fated adventurers to
Egypt’s inhospitable shores, were seized by the Govern-
ment, three days before they took possession of the Caravan.

 

 

-

a

5

ay Soe pe
ee ary

Tes

He ae

 
  
 
  
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
  
   
   
 
 
 
  
 
 

ae ei
wares re
ae St cate

> a aes SS

rn Flore Lanne
Se Coe sesh ots % A ay
Sta eg eA tes Guy es aaD tie
Re PR a

i
Un DL A coi ee ary ee ey

    

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 

98

Their prisoners indeed, we already virtually were, not being
allowed to quit the City. I should have mentioned that
the Bashaw was the tool made use of on this occasion; who
pretended he had Orders from Constantinople, to seize all
English merchandise and confiscate the Vessels, suffering
none but the East India Company’s packets to touch at
Suez. This Firman was said to be obtained of his sublime
highness, by the British resident at the Porte, on behalf of
the E.I. Company; whether this pretence was true or false,
we could never learn. Many other reports were prop-

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 

Se oe ea
= 7s Ot he ole ry
ra 7 - —, Ss es ae a

a a ee eR eee ee aaa
ee Oe S 5 Oe B es Beran kis bueebtany “
; = rt “ mG eal Sea ae Seen So es Ph ’ oe

agated, as must always be the case in a country under
arbitrary government: there being no certain rules to judge
by, every one pronounces on the event as his hopes or fears
dictate. Some times we were all to be sent prisoners to
Constantinople, then we were assured that after a general
plunder of our effects, we should certainly be released;
and once it was confidently reported that, the Bowstring
would be secretly applied to prevent our telling tales.
What added much to our mortification and justified our
fears was, that all the Christians belonging to the two ships,
were on the loth of August dragged to Cairo in the most
ignominious manner, having previously suffered, during
their imprisonment at Suez, every species of hardship which
barbarity and malice could inflict. The people also at
whose house we lodged, behaved to us continually with
marked disrespect, if asked a question they seldom deigned
to reply, and took care to enlarge perpetually on their
condescension in suffering themselves to be incommoded
with strangers. To be thus treated, at a time when
perpetual solicitude and terror had unbraced my nerves
and subdued my spirit, seemed so cruel, that I think it
absolutely hurt me more than even our detention; a

race :

 

aves

\ 5 =

Rt eee
SSeS

; a
t b.
co ie

SO2 Vek eat

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

detention which was certainly

99
harder upon us, than any
other Europeans in one sense, since we had no connection
whatever with the parties, were coming from a different
quarter of the globe; not concerned in trade, and unknown
to those who had visited their country on that account:
no demon of avarice had led zs into their power, nor could
we afford a prey to theirs. These considerations however
evident, made no impression on our host, they were rather
motives of exultation over us, and wh
misfortune, it was irremediable, for we could not change

our abode, without going into another street, where we
should have been unprotected.

at enhanced our

All the Christians live in one part of the town as I before
noticed: during the time when the Plague rages, they visit
each other by means of bridges thrown across the streets,
from the tops of the houses, and this is a convenience they
often resort to at other times, as it saves them from insult,
which they often meet below. I find I have written myself
into such a strange humour, that I cannot proceed method-
ically; but I must try to arrange my thoughts and go
forward better.

At length the Beys, enchanted by that Deity whose
bewitching attractions few mortals can resist, whether on
the banks of the Nile or the Thames: in other words,
influenced by the promise of three thousand pounds, and
an absolute indemnification from Mr. O’Donnell, gave us
leave to proceed on our V oyage in defiance of the tremen-
dous order of their master, and thus ended this most dis-

agreeable and distressing business. I wil] release you from
this wearisome letter. I shall have time at Mocha to con-
tinue my journal—, Adieu till to-morrow.

Ever most affectionately yout’s,

E. F.: A Fy 1
ever hve en ey
eee tehe Ok cin

DS BN i Sie ek

 

 

 

Letter X

Inclosed in the Foregoing

Mocha, 15th September.
My Dear SISTER,

I resume my pen in order to give you some ac-
count of our passing the Desert, which being done by a
method of travelling totally different from any thing in
England, may afford amusement, and even without the
charm of novelty could not fail to interest you, as the
narrative of one so nearly and dearly connected.

When a Caravan is about to depart, large tents are
pitched on the skirts of the City, whither all who propose
joining it repair: there they are drawn up in order, by the
persons who undertake to convey them. Strong bodies
of Arabian soldiers guard the van and rear; others flank
the sides—; so that the female passengers, and the
merchandise, are completely surrounded, and, as one would
hope, defended in case of attack. Each gentleman of our
party had a horse, and it is common to hire a camel between
two, with panniers to carry their provisions &c.—: across
the panniers, which are of wicker, a kind of mattress is
thrown, whereon they take it by turns to lie, and court
repose, during their journey. Females who can afford the
expence, are more comfortably accommodated—; these
travel in a kind of litter, called a Tataravan; with two poles
fastened between two camels, one behind, the other before.
The litter has a top and is surmounted by shabby, ill con-

trived Venetian blinds, which in the day, increase the
100pis the Whoa

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA IOI

suffocating heat, but are of use during the nights which
are cold and piercing.—Every camel carries skins of water,
but before you have been many hours on the Desert, it
becomes of the colour of coffee. I was warned of this, and
recommended to provide small guglets of porous earth,
which after filling with purified water, I slung to the top of
my Tataravan; and these with water melons, and hard
eggs, proved the best refreshments I could have taken.
The water by this means was tolerably preserved; but the
motion of the camels and the uncouth manner in which
the vehicle is fastened to them, made such a constant
rumbling sound among my provisions, as to be exceedingly
annoying. Once I was saluted by a parcel of hard eggs
breaking loose from their net, and pelting me completely:
it was fortunate that they were boiled, or I should have been
in a pretty trim; to this may be added the frequent violent
jerks, occasioned by one or other of the poles slipping out
of its wretched fastening, so as to bring one end of the litter
to the ground; and you may judge how pleasing this mode
of travelling must be.

At our first outset, the novelty of the scene, and the con-
solation I felt, on leaving a place which had been produc-
tive of so much chagrin, and so many too well founded ap-
prehensions, wrought an agreeable change on my harrassed
feelings—; but when we had proceeded some distance on
the Desert; when all traces of human habitation had van-
ished—; when every sign of cultivation disappeared; and
even vegetation was confined to a few low straggling shrubs,
that seemed to stand between life and death as hardly
belonging to either—; when the immeasurable plain lay
around me, a burning sun darted his fierce rays from above,
and no asylum was visible in front, my very heart sunkSe ter ee erie LA ee
er eC at Nees F

ee
G tae OSs, renter

a rea

  

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ASE Te, Reed Oe AE ae

SV pPe PH ee hr yaureaitire ae
AU Ok Treks yy has

102 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

within me.—I am sure you will do justice to my feelings,
the late Catastrophe being deeply imprinted on my mind,
and indeed never absent from it. For the world, you
should not have known what was passing there, when I
made so light of the journey in my letter from Grand
Cairo.

In the midst of these soul-subduing reflections, the
guides gave notice of a body, apparently much larger than
our own, being within view of us.—All the sufferings
related by the poor French gentlemen, my active imagina-
tion now pourtrayed, as about to be inflicted on me. My
dear Parents, my sisters, cried I, will never see me more !—
should they learn my fate what agonies will they not en-
dure !—but never can they conceive half the terrible reali-
ties, that I may be doomed to undergo! Happily, for once,
my fears outwent the truth; the party so dreaded, turned off
in pursuit of some other prey, or perhaps intimidated by our
formidable appearance, left us unmolested.

It is impossible even amidst fear and suspense not to be
struck with the exquisite beauty of the nights here; a per-
fectly cloudless sky, and the atmosphere so clear, that the
stars shine with a brilliancy, infinitely surpassing any thing
I witnessed elsewhere. Well might the ancient Egyptians
become expert astronomers, possessing a climate so favour-
able to that study; nor were we less indebted to those
Heavenly luminaries; since, by their refulgent light, and
unvarying revolutions, the guides cross these trackless
Deserts with certainty, and like the mariner, steer to the
desired haven.

You will perceive, that my boast of having crossed the
Desert, like a lion, was not literally just ;—but then remem-
ber, it was his strength, not his courage to which I alluded:ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 103

for it is true that, considering how much I had suffered in
Cairo, I really did perform the journey well, and on the
second day being convinced by the behaviour of some
around me, how greatly dejection increased the actual evils
of our situation,—I rallied my spirits to the utmost, and
lifting up my heart in gratitude to the Almighty, for having
thus far supported us, I determined to trust in his goodness,
and not desert myself.
On this day I was exceedingly affected by the sufferings
of one of our party—Mr. Taylor, going out as assistant
surgeon on the Bengal establishment. He complained of
illness when we sat out, and seemed overwhelmed with
melancholy. He had been plundered of all by the Arabs—
had sustained various misfortunes, and of late, appeared to
be consumptive. The extreme heat of the weather so over-
powered him, that he resigned all hope of life, and at length,
in a fit of despondency, actually allowed himself to slide
down from his horse, that he might die on the ground.
Mr. Fay seeing him fall, ran to assist him in regaining his
seat, but he earnestly begged to be left alone, and permitted
to die in peace. It was impossible to inspire him with
hope and as he appeared to have so little strength, I did
not believe that, with so strong a predilection for death, he
could have been kept alive—: yet to see a fine young man,
a countryman and fellow-traveller expiring amongst us,
without striving to the last to preserve him, would have been
inhuman. Thank God, our cares so far prevailed that he
is still with us, though his disorder is now confirmed, and
his melancholy but little abated—. He thanks us for life,
as if grateful for our attention, but not for the gift. I fear
his heart is breaking, as well as his constitution.
When my mind was a little relieved on poor T—’s ac-

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104 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

count, I had leisure to think of the horses;—you recollect
how partial I ever was to these noble animals; and we had
several with us, of such singular beauty and docility, that
they would have attracted the attention, I had almost said
the affection, of the most indifferent spectator. The
wretched creatures suffered so much from heat and thirst,
that their groanings were terrible, and added to. this an
involuntary rattling in the throat, as if they were on the
point of expiring, so that one heard them with a mixture of
compassion and horror extremely painful to bear: yet
notwithstanding that this continued for many hours, we
were so fortunate, as not to lose a single horse in the
Caravan.—With the dogs, we were less successful,—three
very fine ones sat out with us, but none survived—one of
them was the most beautiful Italian greyhound, I ever
beheld :—he cost seven guineas at Venice. ‘The first day
he got tolerably well forward; but during the second his
strength failed, and he appeared to suffer excruciating pain
from the heat. When he was in the most frightful state, his
tongue hanging out of his mouth, his eyes wildly staring,
and altogether presenting the idea of madness, rather than
death, his master Mr. T— had the modesty to bring him
to me, and request that I would admit him into my Tatara-
van.. I hope no person will accuse me of inhumanity, for
refusing to receive an animal in that condition,—self-
preservation forbade my compliance. I felt that it would
be weakness, instead of compassion, to subject myself to
such a risk; and you may be certain, my sympathy was not
increased for its owner, when he solemnly assured me, by
way of inforcing his intreaty, that it would cost him a less
severe pang, to see his own father thus suffering, than he
then felt—I was induced to credit this assertion; knowingORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 105

that when last in England, he had remained there seventeen
months without visiting the old gentleman; though he
acknowledged having been within 1 50 miles of his resi-
dence. A very short time after this, the poor creature
dropt down gasping, but ere he had breathed his last, a
brutal Arab cut him to pieces before his masters face; and
on his expressing anger at his cruel behaviour, ran after
him with a drawn scymiter—you may judge from this
incident, what wretches we were cast amongst.

We found Suez a miserable place,—little better than
the Desert which it bounds, and were, as probably I have
already told you, impatient to get on board, where we found
every portable necessary of life had been carried off. We
had been pretty well pillaged ourselves, and could there-
fore sympathize with the losers, as well as lament our
own personal inconvenience, however, thank Heaven
that we escaped as we did:—if ever they catch me on
their Desert again, I think I shall deserve all they can
inflict.

Our passage down the Red Sea was pleasant, the wind
being constantly favourable, but afforded no object of
interest, save the distant view of Mount Horeb, which
again brought the flight of the children of Israel to my
mind; and you may be sure, I did not wonder that they
sought to quit the land of Egypt, after the various specimens
of its advantages that I have experienced.

The only vessels we saw, were those built for the con-
veyance of coffee, for which this port is famous ;—they are
so bulky, clumsy, and strangely constructed, that one might
almost take them for floating mountains. I cannot be
expected to say a great deal of my shipmates, having been
so short a time together, but to own the truth, I do not look

 

 

 

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Os
CER eR ChE eee 6
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106 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

forward to much comfort, where the elements are so dis-
cordant ;—however, as we are to touch at Calicut on the
Coast of Malabar, you shall from thence have the par-
ticulars: for, by that time we shall be pretty well familiar-
ized with each other. May the detail be more agreeable
than my present ideas will warrant me in supposing.

Let me now proceed to say a few words of Mocha,
which is a pretty considerable place, walled round, and
guarded by soldiers.—It appears to great advantage after
Suez, being plentifully supplied with fruit and vegetables;
—the provisions not bad, and the water excellent. The
worst I know of it, is the excessive heat, which is even
beyond that of Cairo. Our sailors have a proverb, that there
is only a sheet of paper between that and another place—
too shocking to be mentioned—I should yet say there
were many sheets; for we have really met with so much
kindness and hospitality here, as to make us almost forget
the heat.

The principal trade is carried on by Banians and Raja-
puts, (as they are called, tho’ I cannot yet tell why) who
come here from India—make comfortable little fortunes
and return. A family of the former, consisting of three
brothers, named George, has shewn us every possible atten-
tion ever since we landed, and the Chevalier de St. Lubin,
a French gentleman, of elegant manners and superior in-
formation, has treated us, in the most sumptuous style.
It is whispered among the English here, that Mons De
St. L— has been on a mission from the French Court to
Hyder Ally, for the express purpose of sowing the seeds
of discord between him, and the English; and that he has
to a great degree succeeded; how far this is true, we cannot
yet say, but so intirely was Mr. Fuller, one of our passengers,Poa) a

   

   

 

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ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 107

persuaded of the fact, that he just now proposed we should
arrest the Chevalier, who is about to proceed in a day or
two to Europe. How far Mr. F— may be politically right,
I cannot tell; but my heart revolted at the idea of receiving
every mark of attention from a man one hour, and on bare
suspicion, making him a prisoner the next; and most truly
did I rejoice when this scheme was overruled. There
should be very sufficient reasons for conduct, so despotic
and apparently ungrateful, and we certainly were not in
possession of documents to authorise such a procedure. [
am much better pleased that this gentleman should return
peaceably to his native country, and forward my letters to
you, which he has promised on his honour to do, and to
secure them amongst his private papers.—I might have
written twice as much if I chose.2°
And now my dear Friends, I must again bid you adieu.
I trust my next accounts will be more pleasant, than this
sad detail must prove, and that I shall meet letters at
Calcutta, with good news of you all. My heart aches with
thinking of the distance between us; but after surmounting
so many difficulties and happily escaping from so many
dangers; I feel inspired with hope for the future.

Ever most affectionately your’s

E. F.Comite Ise
Cat ee SOR)

DET TENG Pee Cy

Sect LL rs ea

Sat ie me neces ES oat eee pe Etter aes SE ee are hat
5 as ET be ded * be Sipe che state 6
c rE Pi Cag % Ct Racliind Penne ou mS,

 

Letter XI

   
  
  
  
  
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  

On Board the Nathalia at Sea

28th October, 1779.
My Dear FRIEnpDs,

I wrote you from Mocha, in date the 15th Septem-
ber, by the Chevalier de St. Lubin who has most solemnly
engaged to forward my letter, and I trust will keep his
word.

We have now been six weeks at sea, and in the course
of a few days hope to reach Calicut. Our passage across
the Indian Ocean, we found very pleasant: the Monsoon
being against us, made it tedious, but no boisterous seas
had we to contend with, as in the Mediterranean :—all has
been calm, easy and free from alarm of every kind hitherto;
fortunate indeed may we deem ourselves in having experi-
enced such fine weather; for our ship is not half laden and
has not Cargo enough to keep her steady. You will now
expect me to say some thing of those with whom we are
cooped up, but my account will not be very satisfactory,
although sufficiently interesting to us—to begin then.

The woman, of whom I entertained some suspicion from
the first, is I am now credibly informed, one of the very
lowest creatures taken off the streets in London; she is so
perfectly depraved in disposition, that her supreme delight
consists in rendering everybody around her, miserable.—It
would be doing her too much honour to stain my paper

with a detail of the various artifices she daily practices to
108t ’ ‘
We BW Ah allo Beton Ne a ae ie lay Ba
" r ;

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 109

that end.—Her pretended husband having been in India
before, and giving himself many airs, is looked upon as a
person of mighty consequence, whom nobody chooses to
oftend; therefore Madam has full scope to exercise her
mischievous talents, wherein he never controuls her—not
but that he perfectly understands how to make himself
feared; coercive measures are some times resorted to; it is
a common expression of the lady. “Lord bless you, if I
did such, or such a ching, Tulloh would make no more to
do, but knock me down like an ox.” I frequently amuse
myself with examining their countenances, where ill nature
has fixed her Empire so firmly, that I scarcely believe either
of them ever smiled unless maliciously. Miss Howe’s
description of Solmes, in Clarissa Harlowe, recurs to me
as admirably suiting this amiable pair—to that I refer
you.*°
Chenu, the Captain, is a mere “Jack in office ;” being
unexpectedly raised to that post from second mate, by the
death of poor Capt. Vanderfield and his chief officer on the
fatal Desert, is become from this circumstance so insolent
and overbearing, that every one detests him. Instead of
being ready to accommodate every person with the few
necessaries left by the plundering Arabs, he constantly
appropriates them to himself. “Where’s the Captain’s
silver spoon? God bless my soul. Sir, you have got my
chair, must you be seated before the captain? What have
you done with the Captain’s glass?” and a great deal more
of the same kind; but this may serve as a specimen. And
altho’ the wretch half starves us, he frequently makes com-
parisons between zs table, and that of an Indiaman, which
we dare not contradict while in his power; tell me now,
should you not doat on three such companions for a long

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Pa fe ate a ee tera ET
F G nes hee 38 he yore -

110 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

voyage ?—but I have a fourth who at least, merits to be
added to the triumvirate; his name John Hare, Esqr.,
Barrister at Law, a man of the very first fashion I assure
you, and who would faint at the thought of any thing
Plebeian. Taylor was one day shewing him a very hand-
some silver hilted sword, which he greatly admired, till
chancing to cast his eye on the scabbard he read “Royal
Exchange.” “Take your sword” said he, “its surprizing a
man of your sense should commit such an error; for fifty
guineas I would not have a City name on any article of my
dress; now St. James’s or Bond street, has a delicious sound,
don’t you think so my dear friend?”—Now would any one
suppose this fine gentleman’s father was in trade, and he
himself brought up in that very City, he effects to despise?
very true nevertheless—Quadrille he would not be thought
to know; it is only played by the wives and daughters of
Tradesmen, in country towns: I want to make you see him;
figure to yourself a little mortal, his body constantly bent
in a rhetorical attitude, as if addressing the Court, and his
face covered with scorbutic blotches. Happily from an
affectation of singularity, he always wears spectacles. I say
happily, as they serve to conceal the most odious pair of
little white eyes mine ever beheld. What Butler says of
Hudibras—that

Ce tren
arty Gs oe CL oy are
; Geen ees oye sie
Reta ears Sri gop Ofe CeO et at ete aAN

“he could not ope
His mouth, but out there flew a trope,”

may literally be applied to this Heaven-born Orator, who
certainly outdoes all I ever heard, in the use of overstrained
compliments and far-fetched allusions. But with all those
oddities, were he only a good-natured harmless simpleton,ic honis whe
Tite eevee rs

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA _ rrr

one might pity him. At first he took so much pains to
ingratiate himself with us, that he became a sort of favorite;
—so many confessions of superior abilities in Mr. Fay—
such intreaties to spare him, when they should practise in
the Courts together,—a studied attention to me in the

minutest article—effectually shielded him from suspicion,
till his end was answered, of r

aising a party against us, by
means of that vile woman, who was anxious to triumph over
me; especially as I have been repeatedly compelled (for the
Honour of the Sex) to censure her swearing, and indecent
behaviour. I have therefore little comfort to look forward
to, for the remainder of the voyage.”

It is, however, only justice to name Mr. Taylor as an
amiable, tho’ melancholy companion, and Mr. Manesty
an agreeable young man, under twenty, going out as a
writer on the Bombay Establishment, from whom I always
receive the most respectful attention. Mr. Fuller, is a
middle aged man; it is easy to see, that he has been ac-
customed to genteel society. How different Azs manners
from those of Hare! Poor man he has, it seems, fallen into
the hands of sharpers, and been completely pillaged. He
has the finest dark eyes, and one of the most intelligent
countenances [ ever met with. His trip to Bengal is, I
doubt, a last resource. May it prove successful. I have
no enmity towards him; for though he has joined the other
party, it is evidently with reluctance. Mr. Moreau a
musician, going out to India to exercise his profession, is
very civil and attentive.

Dissentions have run very high on board. The very
day after we sailed from Mocha, a sudden quarrel arose
between the Captain, and H— the Barrister; on which the
ship was ordered about, and they were going ashore in aSee ee Pa ee
Rasher on a adc > — aT

Ta i ere re er err oer
Reece Peas renege rte Oerltaayiotey CPP IU EE Cy cae tte e

—

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7 aa a Satya Re A é

ace fi

  

112 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

great hurry to decide it; but by the interposition of friends,
they were prevailed upon to curb their wrath, ’till their
arrival at Calicut, as in case of an accident, no officer
remained to supply Chenu’s place. About a month after,
they were reconciled; and so ended this doughty affair.

I had almost forgotten to mention Pierot, the purser of
the ship—a lively, well informed little Frenchman,—full of
anecdotes and always prepared with a repartée; in short,
the soul of the party. He sings an excellent song, and has
as many tricks as a monkey. I cannot help smiling at his
sallies, though they are frequently levelled at me; for he is
one of my most virulent persecutors. Indeed, such is our
general line of conduct; for, having early discovered the
confederacy, prudence determined us to go mildly on, seem-
ingly blind to what it was beyond our power to remedy.
Never intermeddling in their disputes, all endeavours to
draw us into quarrels are vainly exerted—: indeed I despise
them too much to be angry.

During the first fortnight of our voyage my foolish
complaisance stood in my way at table; but I soon learnt
our genteel maxim was “catch as catch can,”—the longest
arm fared best; and you cannot imagine what a good
scrambler I am become,—a dish once seized, it 1s my care,
to make use of my good fortune: and now provisions run-
ning very short, we are grown quite savages; two or three
of us perhaps fighting for a bone; for there is no respect of
persons. The wretch of a captain wanting our passage
money for nothing, refused to lay in a sufficient quantity
of stock; and if we do not soon reach our Port, what must
be the consequence, Heaven knows.

After meals I generally retire to my cabin, where I find
plenty of employment, having made up a dozen shirts forORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 113

Mr. F— out of some cloth, I purchased at Mocha, to
replace part of those stolen by the Arabs—Sometimes I read
French and Italian, and study Portugueze. I likewise
prevailed on Mr. Fay to teach me short-hand: in conse-
quence of the airs H— gave himself because he was master
of this art, and had taught his sisters to correspond wth
him in it. The matter was very easily accomplished—in
short I discovered abundant methods of making my time
pass usefully, and not disagreeably. How often since, in
this situation have I blessed God, that he has been pleased
to endow me with a mind, capable of furnishing its own
amusement, in despite of every means used to discompose it.

4th November.—We are now in sight of the Malabar
hills, and expect to reach Calicut either this evening, or
to-morrow; I shall conclude this letter, and send it under
charge of Mr. Manesty, to forward it from Bombay. I am
in tolerable health, and looking with a longing eye, towards
Bengal, from whence I trust my next will be dated. The
climate seems likely to agree very well with me, I do not at
all mind the heat, nor does it affect either my spirits, or
my appetite.

I remain
Ever affectionately your’s,

E. F.

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awn bal

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  

Letter XII

Calicut, 12th February, 1780.
My pear FRIENDS

It was my determination never to write to you, during
the state of dreadful Captivity in which we have long been
held, but having hopes of a release, think | may now ven-
ture to give you some account of our sufferings, which have
been extreme, both in body and mind, for a period of fifteen
weeks, which we have spent in wretched confinement,

totally in the power of Barbarians.”
I must premise that, such is the harrassing confusion of
my mind, and the weakness of my nerves, that I can merely
offer you a simple statement of facts, and even that must
necessarily be incorrect; for incessant anxiety and constant
anticipation of more intolerable evils, have totally unhinged
my faculties. God knows whether I may ever recover
them; at present all is confused and clouded.—Reflections
on the importance of our speedy arrival in Bengal, which so
many circumstances had contributed to prevent, and the ap-
prehension lest our delay should afford time to raise serious
obstacles against Mr. Fay’s admission into the Court, as an
advocate, had long been as so many daggers, piercing my
vitals: add to this the heart-breaking thought what immense
tracts lie between me and those dear dear friends, whose
society alone can render me completely happy. Even were

the most brilliant success to crown our future views, never
114

S = e
RT -
eR ere SOORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 115

could I know comfort, ’till the blessed moment arrive, when
I shall clasp you all to my fond heart, without fear of a fu-
ture separation ; except by that stroke, to which we must all
submit; and which has been suspended over my head as
by a single hair. I trust that I have been spared, to afford
me the means of proving more substantially than by words,
how inestimably precious, absence has made you in my
sight.—Well may it be said that, the deprivation of a bless-
ing enhances its value; for my affection rises now to a pitch
of Enthusiasm, of which I knew not that my heart was
capable ;—but which has been its consolation, amidst all the
horrors of imprisonment and sickness: no congenial mind to
which I could declare my feelings, sure of meeting with
sympathizing affection, as I so delightfully experienced in
the company of my beloved sister—But I forget that all
this while you are impatient to hear how we fell into so
distressing a situation ; take then the particulars.

I told you in my last that we expected to reach Calicut
very shortly, and accordingly next day, on the (to me ever
memorable) 5th November, we anchored in the Roads, and
to our great concern saw no English flag up. In a short
time we were surrounded by vessels which approached us
with an air of so much hostility that we became seriously
alarmed,—with one exception; this was the redoubtable
Mrs. Tulloh. She had frequently, in the course of the
voyage, expressed a violent desire for some species of ad-
venture,—a passion for some romantic danger, on which
she could descant hereafter; and far from congratulating
herself on having arrived at Grand Cairo, when the Caravan
was setting off in safety, she ever expressed a wish, that she
had been present during that period of terror and confusion,
of which she envied us the participation. On hearing

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116 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Chenu declare that he feared he must make a shew of
engaging, notwithstanding the deficiencies under which
he laboured, and which evidently rendered the idea of re-
sistance on our part, a mere farce; since we had neither
arms, ammunition, nor men on board sufficient to abide the
contest, she positively insisted on having a chair brought
upon deck, in which she was determined to sit, and see the
engagement; observing that, it was the next best thing to
escaping from shipwreck.—Having no ambition to play the
Heroine in this way, I resolved on going below, and exert-
ing, (should it be necessary) my limited abilities in assist-
ing Mr. Taylor, who had agreed to officiate as Surgeon
—not feeling myself inclined to brave horrors of this na-
ture, for the mere love of exhibition. Most probably had
the matter become serious, she would not have been per-
mitted to indulge her fancy; but by degrees our suspicious
visitants sheered off, without venturing to commence an
attack, seeing us apparently so well prepared to resist them ;
and we flattered ourselves that our fears had been alto-
gether groundless.

The next morning Hare and two others, going on shore
to reconnoitre brought back intelligence, that we might all
be safe in the Danish Factory, on condition of our passing
for Danes ;—as a misunderstanding actually subsisted be-
tween Hyder Ally and the English. Mr. Passavant, the
Danish Consul, had been on board meanwhile, and given
us pretty nearly the same information, and from others we
soon learnt a circumstance, which confirmed our apprehen-
sion, that some mischief was brewing,—this was the de-
parture of Mr. Freeman, the English Consul, who had left
the place some weeks before, taking with him his furniture
and effects,—a positive proof that he supposed hostilitiesORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 117

were about to commence; as it has been found a common
procedure in these cases, for Asiatic Princes to begin a War,
by imprisoning the Embassadors or Residents, of course, a
wise man will fly when the storm lowers.

Now our most worthy fellow-passengers, had privately
agreed to continue their journey by land, and rejoiced in the
opportunity of leaving us in the lurch :—they therefore
accepted Mr. Passavant’s invitation immediately, without
consulting us. At first this behaviour affected me a good
deal and I resolved to follow them:—Mr. Fay concurring
in opinion.—But on calm reflection, we judged it most
prudent to learn what reception they met with, before we
ventured on such slippery ground. On Sunday Chenu
dined on board; and appeared very earnest for our quitting
the Ship: but we did not attend to his persuasions. The
Gunner who had charge of the vessel was a very respectable
man, and we had lately held many conversations with him;
he had a vile opinion of the Captain, believing that money
would tempt him to commit amy act, however atrocious;
and had resolved in case an armed force was seen approach-
ing the ship, to cut and run down to Cochin, with all the
sail he could set,—but alas! before Chenu left us this day,
he ordered all the yards to be struck, saying he should stay
six weeks. This was doubtless done to frighten us, and to
induce us to go on shore; but having taken our resolution,

we were not to be moved; especially as he dropped some
dark hints, respecting the situation of those, who were there:
in so much that we had reason to think our only chance of
escaping imprisonment, was by remaining where we were.
Meantime intelligence reached us from various quarters,
that disputes ran high between the Captain and passengers,
about the remaining half of their passage money. As theyfend
oP

ea Ferd PEs PN TON RR rie a pk tds ate eS AR a eal Ue,
pie, Od aU aroun ett ie yer ty tee é a pe Wek aah beard
BRS SOLS ae I ata Tg eae ie 5 ae Le sata eae fa de hg SS

    

™, =F PSE ES
moos, eT ray Sor al
Gee ne onl athin 3)

a

118 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

ST ee eee

a a ee et eeeeetoert nt Sa Cee eo
TOT cet of ches eiages PBR LE TT gah kn i y STA rn. Goat ns

proposed leaving the ship there, he demanded payment;
which they refused till they should arrive in Bengal.

On the 8th came Lewis, Hare’s servant, for his own
clothes :—he brought news that a challenge had again passed
between his master and Chenu, on the occasion of his mas-
ter’s trunks being stopped for the passage money—he left
them on the point of deciding it when he came off. You
may suppose we became exceedingly anxious to learn
the event, but had soon other matters to engross our atten-

tion.
During the three days we staid here, after every one

else departed, boats full of people, were continually coming
on board by permission of our worthy Captain, under pre-
tence of viewing the ship,—we thought this rather odd;
but John the Gunner being, as I observed before, a prudent
steady man, we trusted to his discretion. About four, on
Monday afternoon, I was sitting in the round-house at
work, when a large boat came along side, with more than
twenty armed men in her;—one of them shewed a written
chit as he called it from Chenu; notwithstanding which,
John insisted on their leaving their arms behind them—
this, they at length complied with, and were then permitted
to enter. J ran down half frightened to Mr. Fay, who was
reading in our cabin, and told him the affair. “Pho,” said
he, it is impossible they should mean any harm: are we
not under the protection of the Danish flag?” this silenced
me at once, and he went upon deck to see the issue. All
this while our visitors feigned to be mighty ignorant, and
inquisitive, peeping into every hole and corner, as if, they
never saw such a sight in their lives—purposely dallying
on the time ’till just dark, when to my great joy they de-
parted. A heavy squall came on, which they sheltered

Careun eGORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 119

from under the ship’s stern, there another boat met them,
and after some parley, they both (as I thought) went away.
But in a few minutes down came Mr. Fay “you must
not be alarmed, said he, I have news to tell you:—we are
to have a hundred and fifty sepoys on board to-night!”
Seapoys: for what! “Why the English are coming to
attack Calicut—Chenu has promised Sudder Khan, the
Governor, his assistance, who has sent these troops for our
defence”—“Oh Mr. F—” replied I, this is a very im-
probable story, for God’s sake suffer not these people to
enter the ship, if you can avoid it; otherwise we are ruined.
I see plainly this is a second Suez business;” (for by the
same treacherous pretext they gained possession of the ships
there) and at ¢hat instant, all that those unfortunate men
suffered, coming fresh into my mind, I really thought I
should have fainted—Seeing that I was rendered more
uneasy by being kept in suspense, he now acknowledged,
that under favour of the night, a large party, headed by a
Capt. Ayres, an Englishman in Hyder’s service, had already
made good their entrance. The Commander had indeed
related the above nonsensical tale to our Gunner, as an
excuse for his proceeding; but did not seem himself to
expect, it would gain belief: however being nearly destitute
of Arms and Ammunition (the Arabs had taken care of
that) what could we do, but recommend ourselves to the
Divine Protection? which I may truly say, was never more
earnestly solicited by me.—When the redoubtable Captain
Ayres had settled every thing upon Deck, he favoured us
with his company below.—As this Gentleman is in great
power, and had a large share in the subsequent transactions,

I must here devote a few moments to giving you a little
sketch of his history.

TER otra Tp Dhami eC ae
ea aS Ere eae
Dia ep ee mE
MEI para AEST Se See

rT eee
We Seimei Fon eee cr ou mE
ai an: S
nn oth a I

a
i

  
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   

7 Sarees
‘ 2 feeb
He OO

a PS Ow ala Doak ied ea

ad Fi ts e - pam Ure 8

A on oy ee a ha ao
SE eat et a ead a me

Sos Sete

Se om eae -Pars

ee

SN a a a caer et a
a! A cc) Gea aoe es Sao ORS Ce eS ACR NL pales Geen Bee perro b

sere?

mats
= ae met a

edurkiae ete

a a aye Bee the aye ea
te a eAOr Leta rap ie oh TA Dn oe &

  
  

120 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

He was born in London, and at the usual age bound
apprentice to a saddler; but being a lad of spirit, and
associating with other promising youths of similar talents,
and courage, he soon found an employment more suited to
his active genius; in a word, he became a Gentleman Col-
lector on the Highway. This post he maintained several
years, and if we may credit what he relates when in a
boasting humour, performed many notable exploits; it is
true he sometimes got inclosed within the hard gripe of the
Law, but always found means to liberate himself, from
it, till on one unlucky trial, proofs ran so strong against
him, that in spite of money and friends (which in his case
were never wanting) he was Capztally convicted; though,
afterwards, pardoned on condition of transportation for
life—This induced him to enlist for the East Indies, where
he exercised his former profession, and was twice im-
prisoned at Calcutta on suspicion; but having acted cau-
tiously, nothing positive appeared against him: so by way
of changing the scene, he was draughted off for Madras,
where finding his favourite business rather slack, and his
pay insufficient to support him without it, our hero deter-
mined on deserting to Hyder Ally, which resolution he soon
found means to put in practice,—carrying with him two
horses, arms, accoutrements, wearing apparel, and every
thing else of value he could lay hands on, to a pretty con-
siderable amount. This shew of property, (no matter how
acquired) gave him consequence with Hyder, who imme-
diately promoted him to the rank of Captain. Being a
thorough paced villain, he has during these seven years
taken the lead in every species of barbarity—He even
advised his General, who is Governor of this Province, to
massacre all the natives by way of quelling a rebellionek poy et 09

 

     
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 121

which had arisen.—The least punishment inflicted by him
was cutting off the noses and ears of those miserable
wretches, whose hard fate subjected them to his tyranny. In
short a volume would not contain half the enormities perpe-
trated by this disgrace to human nature—but to proceed.

At sight of him I shuddered involuntarily, though at that
time ignorant of his real character, such an air of wicked-
ness and ferocity overspread his features. The sergeant
who accompanied him was (always excepting his master)
the most horrid looking creature, I verily believe, in ex-
istence: from such another pair the Lord defend me! Ayres
told me, with the utmost indifference that the people at the
Factory had all been fighting duels:—that Mr. Passavant
the Danish Chief, had sent for a guard to separate them;
and that the Governor finding the ship had no owner, as all
these disputes arose about dividing the spoil, had thought
proper to take possession of her in the Nabod’s name, until
matters were inquired into; after which he facthfully prom-
ised to restore her, without the least embezzlement—the
love of Justice alone inducing him thus to act.

Though we perceived the fallacy of these pretences, yet
as it was useless to argue with the vile instrument of
oppression, we only requested to be set free on shore with
our effects. This he engaged for, and even offered to take
charge of any valuables or money—You may be sure we
pleaded poverty; declaring that except our clothes, (which
could be no object in a country where so few are wom) a
guinea would purchase all we possessed; in the mean time
we requested a guard to protect our persons from insult.—
Having pledged his Honour for our security, the captain
retired. You will believe that sleep did not visit our eye-

lids that night: The fright had disordered me so much, that<i See rete a
aaa ee

re

Se rr ee ee
ey ae a .

Te i ee emo ea re

bree ae

i
Ao OSs:
Se D0

eA. hl
5 ,

CU Re ee ae Ne ek ah ds a oe ce ee Be
PEVUNER DC EECE GaN eRe el elon a

   

122 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

a violent retching came on, succeeded by a strong fever,
which occasioned dreadful pains in my limbs. In the midst
of these excruciating tortures, I heard Ayres tell his Ser-
jeant, that orders were come to plunder the Ship, and make
all the officers prisoners in the Round-house.

Can any thing be imagined more distressing, than my
situation without the means of relief,—no possibility of
obtaining advice, and no female to whom I could look for
succour or assistance. This was about two in the morning,
—these words sounded like the signal of death in my ears.
Immediately a party of armed men surrounded our Cabin,
and demanded entrance. I clung round my husband and
begged for God’s sake that he would not admit them; for
what could be expected from such wretches but the most
shocking treatment. All this while there was such a noise
without, of breaking and tearing, to come at their plunder,
as convinced me that should we once lose sight of our little
property, every thing was lost: at first they were pacified on
being told that I was asleep, but soon grew out of patience,
brandished their scymitears and one man who spoke a little
English, threatened with horrible execrations to murder us
if we did not énstantly comply with their demands, and
open the door.—Mr. Fay drew his sword on this declara-
tion, swearing solemnly that he would run the first man
through the body, who should presume to enter his wife’s
apartment. His air of resolution and menacing actions,
had their effect so far, as to prevent them from breaking
open the door; the top of which being sashed, I beheld
through it, their terrific countenances, and heard them
incessantly calling ‘“‘ao, ao,” (in English come). This
word has made an impression on me, which is indescribable.
I can never hear it pronounced on the most common occa-ee tae a erie ee as
isd be Mee yh a

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 123

sion, without trembling: but to return—Mr. F ay now
intreated me to rise if possible, being fearful he could not
keep them much longer at bay. I endeavoured to comply ;
but the agonising pains I suffered, and the extreme weak-
ness brought on by fever, rendered it impossible for me to
stand upright; there was however no remedy—so by
degrees I got my clothes on (I recollect now that I must
have been above an hour employed in this business. )
Through the glass door, I could see the villains outside, use
menacing gestures and urge me to make haste,—vowing
vengeance on me if I kept them longer waiting.

Expecting a strict search and being desirous of rescuing
something from the general wreck, Mr. Fay contrived to
conceal our watches in my hair, having first stopped their
going by sticking pins in the wheels: and the little money
we possessed, and what small articles I could take without
exciting suspicion, were concealed about my person. Thus
equipped I crawled out, bent double, and in an instant, the
Cabin was filled with Seapoys. I must here pause, and
intreat my dear sister to imagine herself in my situation at
that dreadful moment: for no language can I find, that
would do justice to my feelings.

But when I came on deck, the scene which presented
itself would have appalled the stoutest heart ;—mine al-
ready weakened by grief and apprehension could not with-
stand it. A sudden burst of tears alone saved me from
fainting. The poor sailors were so distracted, that many of
them could scarcely be restrained from Jumping over board
to escape slavery ;—sometimes crying for their wages, and
asking the Officers to pay them; who incapable of affording
any consolation, walked about like men bereft of reason:
no wonder, since this fatal event would, to say the least,

parle ee 7
= - as

yee
a ra

r “ ‘ we ao
So rt forclan poeple Deter: PTET ey igre ies weed

 

ns

  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
  
 

Se ices!

ee

Stier

ees

= Se — Sees

OT Gir Pn Gai
Sea ee Oe ee ees
age Ra eth :tI, SA Lie Me NOs ar,

  

aS ORR RR EIT IY SRE te Tome nen tnoipevsern tert PETER ET LEE SO TE OT 7 ¢ eae

 

ee eee eet een ay

Rc gh eee ene eet ee te ane
LE ae co aed oaaetantne PS pe ha Pe

ea es

nivo fo

Lacan

  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 

124 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

occasion them the loss of twelve month’s pay, exclusive of
their private ventures.

We were immediately ordered on shore, together with
the carpenter and ship’s steward;—we demanded our bag-
gage, but in vain; at length having represented the neces-
sity of a change of linen, a person was sent down with
me, in whose presence I put up a few common things, in a
handkerchief, not being allowed to take any thing of value;
but having laid out a silk gown the day before, to put on
in case I went ashore, I begged hard for that, and obtained
it; though my husband was not suffered to take a second
coat, or even to change that he had on. Our beds were
likewise refused, lest they should contain valuables; and
upon deck the bundle was again examined in search of
hidden treasure,—but finding nothing, they, contrary to
my expectations, searched no further; but permitted us to
leave the vessel unmolested; except that they had the
cruelty to toss several half extinguished Blue lights into the
boat, the smoke of which, from the rancid oil and abomi-
nable rags used in their composition, almost stifled me.—
At this time it rained hard, and continued to do so the
whole day, which forced me to creep under the shelter of a
kind of half deck, where I sat, bent double, for two long
long hours, and then a remarkably high surf, prevented
large boats from landing,—we had no remedy but to go
into a canoe, scarcely bigger than a butcher’s tray, half full
of water,—so that we reached the shore dripping wet—
Compare this account with the many chearful and flattering
conversations we have held together on the subject of my

earrival in India. What a striking difference! It is true

we were in the hands of the natives; but little did I imagine
that, any power on this Continent, however independent,ALE SLED ad

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 125

would have dared to treat English subjects with such
cruelty, as we experienced from them.

As if to aggravate our miseries by every species of
insult, they compelled us to walk above a mile thro’ a heavy
sand, surrounded by all the mob of Calicut, who seemed
to take pleasure in beholding the distress of white people,
those constant objects of their envy and detestation.—
When we had proceeded about half way, our Guards de-
tained us nearly an hour, in an open Square, till the Gov-
ernor’s pleasure should be known. He sat all the while
smoking his Hooka, and looking down upon us; when hav-
ing sufficiently feasted his eyes, he ordered us to be taken to
the English Factory—How I dragged on my weary aching
limbs, I know not. The rain still poured and as we went,
a lad who had deserted from Madras, and was then a ser-
jeant in Hyder’s service, seeing a country-woman in such
distress, offered to procure me an umbrella, but could not
prevail on the barbarians to stop, while he ran for it, though
he was their officer. I thanked the poor lad for his kind
intention and Mr. Fay insisted that I should take his hat,
while he walked on bare-headed to the place of our con-
finement.—But here I cannot describe the horror which
seized me on finding, we were totally in the power of
wretches, who, for, aught I knew, intended to strip and
murder us: why else were we sent to an empty house?
not a single chair to sit on, or any other bed than the floor.
These were my heart-breaking reflections, as I ‘threw
myself in despair on a window seat, worn out with fatigue
and want of nourishment; without means of procuring even
a draught of water to assuage my thirst, which gTew eXces- |
sive; for the offer of a bribe would have been dangerous. .
In this miserable condition we remained till two o'clock,ey es woes.
me Peers mene i ee IT
Aen P aur eee Cyr
2 ST a ie ES

eae ae ee eee ree oer te
° He coe Q aA See ES Saee Bo a Pao e
SNS er NG ee eek ek Se Scr eee Sh eee

  

ea H at
Lect De tt Sse Pat Wm Ba

126 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

when Mr. Passavant having heard of our misfortune, sent
us a dinner; but his messenger had very great difficulty in
obtaining admittance, with even this temporary relief.
From him we learnt that, the other passengers were hith-
erto unconfined, but expected every moment to be made
prisoners. After Mr. Fay had dined, (for my anxiety
continued so great, that exhausted as I was, I could not
touch a morsel of what was brought) I besought him to
look round for some place into which I might crawl, and lie
down unseen by the Seapoys, that guarded us. He was
averse to this, lest they should imagine that we were seeking
to escape, and make that a pretext for ill usage :—but per-
ceiving that the sight of them prevented me from taking
that repose, so necessary to recruit my poor worn out
frame, he complied with my request, and having discovered
a lumber-room leading out of the Veranda which sur-
rounded the house, he assisted me into it—Here with my
little bundle for a pillow, I stretched myself on the floor,
amidst dirt and rubbish, and enjoyed a fine sleep of more
than three hours, when I awoke completely refreshed and
entirely free from the dreadful tortures, which had racked
me the whole night.—I did not even feel any symptoms
of fever.

Surprized and thankful for the change, I joyfully went
down to Mr. Fay, declaring that I would continue to make
use of the lumber-room to sleep in, and as Mr. Passavant
had, during my nap, sent me a rattan couch, tho’ by the bye
without either mattress, pillow, or musquito curtains, I was
just going to have it conveyed there, when the place was

found to be swarming with venomous reptiles; perhaps a

hundred scorpions and centipedes—happily I slept too
soundly to feel them, and J remained unmolested; but hadGVA weeny

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 127

I moved hand or foot, what might have been the conse-

quence !

The next morning we had a visit from Mr. Hare; less,

it appeared, to condole with us on such unexampled suffer-
ing, than to embrace the occasion of displaying his own elo-
quence; for which having a very strong passion, it was no
wonder, if he thought the misfortunes of others proper sub-
jects to expatiate on. Mounting his rhetorical hobby-horse,
the Orator harangued a long while, though to little pur-
pose, endeavouring to turn our situation into ridicule ;-—
offered to convey letters for us to Bengal ;—pretended to be
in raptures with the fine view of the Sea from our Veranda,
which I hinted to him he might still have time to admire
at his leisure, though he affected to be certain of leaving
Calicut in a few hours. At length he concluded, by ad-
vising me to address a tender memorial to Hyder Ally,
whose general character for gallantry, would not admit of
his refusing any request made by a fair Lady. This was
wonderfully witty in the speaker’s opinion, as you may
conceive, how facr the Lady in question looked. How a
man could break a jest on a creature so bowed down by
affliction, I know not: but I envy not his feelings.

I forgot to tell you that, the duel between the Captain,
and the Orator, was prevented by the guard, doubtless to
the regret of these heroes. It seems the day they went on
shore, Ayres accompanied by another Captain of a pretty
similar description, named West, made Mr. Passavant a
visit, to look at the strangers. Now as it was of the utmost
importance, that they should remain undiscovered by such
dangerous people, and as their visitants, though illiterate,
were sufficiently acute, all perceived immediately the neces-
sity of being guarded ;—accordingly they, every one spokes -- ~—
See at a ear —

ma

a eee =

BEI tah ate see A ens OT) ha < ald eo

[pei

  

Peter or errant SL re eet pt ee eos a

. parr Ts Cases eee ; "
RET eo mol eee east oe S ae eM
ple ee a See ae sat = Rata eit ane eee fed ey " one 4

3 Eee os area pe

1228 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

French, and this, together with their long wide coats, and
preposterous hats, which had just then become fashionable
in England, effectually shielded them from suspicion; when
behold, a sudden fit of Patriotism, aided by an irresistible
fondness for exhibition, rendered the great Mr. H— in-
capable of persevering in deception. ‘What’ exclaimed
he, “shall Engl¢shmen harbour distrust of each other! perish
the ignoble idea!—be the consequences what they may, I
will no longer restrain myself from embracing my beloved
country-men.” At the conclusion of this heroic speech,
“Suiting the action to the words” advancing theatrically,
he grasped the hand of Ayres, and shook it, with such
violence as if he meant to demonstrate the excess of his joy
and confidence, by dislocating the shoulder of his newly
acquired friend.

The most unreserved intimacy, immediately took place
between these congenial souls, and it is asserted that unable
to keep any secret from his bosom confidant, H— was
really so mad, (I may say, so cruel) as absolutely to ac-
knowledge the ship to be English property. I could not
have believed that his folly and imprudence would carry
him so far; thus much is, however, undoubtedly fact, that
the man in the spectacles is constantly pointed out, as the
author of every mischief which followed.—It is surprizing
how often we find weakness and malignity united, or rather
let us say, that providence has thus ordained it, for the
benefit of mankind. Probably the former induced H— to
injure the party to which he had attached himself :—the
latter undoubtedly led him to visit us, for he could not
conceal his exultation at the circumstance of our accidental
capture in the Vessel, seeming to involve us exclusively in
her fate. The unfeeling wretch availed himself of this toFADE AY

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

nen nel pee ae

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 129

lay a scheme, that had it been adequately seconded, must
have brought on our destruction.

Ayres was first prevailed on by large presents, to dis-
suade the Governor from confining them, and that point
gained, he pushed their interest forward thus, “These gen-
tlemen” said he, “have no concern here of any kind; be-
sides, as they are people of the highest consequence, their
detention would bring half India on our back, so take my
advice and let them go.” “Well, but replies Sudder Khan,
“what must I do with my prisoners?” “Oh keep them by
all means” replies Beelzebub, “the man is a stout fellow,
and after a little breaking in, will make a most excellent
soldier: send him and his wife up the country, there feed
them on dry rice, he will soon be glad to enlist I warrant
you. The chief of the other party Mr. H— is a brother
lawyer, so you need not fear, but he will be happy enough
to get rid of him; indeed he owned as much to me pri-
vately, and pledged his honour that no ill consequence
could possibly arise from the transaction:—the person in
question not being of sufficient importance for the English
to reclaim him solemnly; especially as he came out without
leave.” You will wonder how I came by all this informa-
tion; have patience, you shall know in time.”

The Governor heard this argument calmly, promised fair,
and acted so far agreeably to his professions that, while
we were closely confined and miserably situated, our worthy
fellow passengers enjoyed full liberty to walk about, and
amuse themselves as they pleased.—This procedure could
not fail to vex us excessively, though we were then ignorant
of its real cause, and whenever we ventured to expostulate
on our unreasonably harsh treatment with Ayres or any
other, who chanced to call, the only answer we could obtaina er nora A ENT Oe
en esse DIP oe

he!

Oe ae er mea eee aro eee hte
g ¢ ot ee SER RTI Rahs prneas Ng Se a) S

aes >

IT a

\ Paes

(aca en

  

Peer eins Te!
Pereree eye pincers

130 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

was, with a shrug of affected compassion, “why did you
stay on board! nothing can be done for you now, you must
abide the event.”’ ‘These insinuations created fears, that a
distinction would really be made in our eventual disposal,
as much to our disadvantage, as the present state of
things, but we had no remedy—all avenues to relief were
closed.

I think I told you that, our watches were concealed in
my hair, being secured with pins to prevent them from
going; one of the pins however came out, at the very time
I was set on shore. Never shall I forget what a terrible
sensation the ticking of the watch caused! I think had it
continued long, I must completely have lost my senses; for
I dared not remove it, from a fear of worse consequences;
but happily it stopped of itself. When we were fixed in
our prison Mr. Fay took these watches, (we had three you
know) and all the money we had power to secure in
chequins, which are of easy conveyance (about twenty-five
pounds) and putting them into his glove, hid them in a
snug place, as he thought, about the Verandah. The day
after we were taken prisoners, a most dreadful hurricane of
rain and wind came in, (it was the breaking up of the mon-
soon) and next morning we found to our extreme grief, that
the place where Mr. Fay had concealeu our treasure, to
which alone we could look for the means of escape, was
entirely blown down; and no vestige of our little property
remaining. Mr. Fay was in despair from the first; but
after he had told me, I searched diligently all round, but in
vain. At length it struck me, from the direction in which
the wind blew, that if I could make my way into an inclo-
sure, at the back of the house, it might possibly be found
there. The seapoys guarded the front, but there being onlyaa ie Wl

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 131

one door backwards, they seldom took the trouble of going
round. I did not tell Mr. Fay of my scheme, as there was
nothing he opposed so strongly, as the appearance of seek-
ing to escape; but when he was completely absorbed in con-
templating this new misfortune, I stole to the back door.
There was a large lock and key inside and to my surprize,
when I had turned this, my passage was clear to the stairs,
leading to the inclosure; and not a soul in sight. The
grass was excessively high and wet, but I struggled to make
my way through it and waded about, determined at least
not to leave an inch unexplored. Imagine my joy, when in
the midst of a deep tuft I found the old glove, with all its
contents safe, and uninjured. What a treasure it seemed!
how many are there who never felt so much true delight on
receiving a magnificent fortune, as we experienced in again
beholding this sheet anchor of our hopes, thus unexpect-
edly restored.

But alas! the little unlooked for liberty I had regained,
was too tempting of to be enjoyed again; and a day or two
afterwards as I was walking about in the grass, I espied a
seapoy coming round. I was not certain that he saw me,
so I endeavoured to reach the house unobserved. At the
moment [ turned round to fasten the heavy door, he ran to
it, pushing it against me, with such violence that the large
key which had unfortunately a very long shank, was by this
means struck directly against my right breast, and gave me
the most excruciating pain. I fainted through excessive
agony, and was with difficulty recovered. Much I fear the
consequences of this accident will embitter my future life.
Having no other nurse than my poor husband, who was not
only ignorant of what ought to be done, but totally without
the necessaries for any kind of emollient application,—mySues Cygne Oe Op Ns tas
A Os tee

es Bk Ge i RO ie i A os toatl
J ee

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

132 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

case was truly distressing; so that even Ayres who chanced
to call, expressed some concern for me, and sent plenty
of milk which I used as an embrocation with success. [I
believe he punished the seapoy for his insolence, but this
could not repair the mischief.

At the very time when this painful variety took place
in the cheerless monotony of our prison days, the cruel
designers who had assisted in dooming us to this wretched
abode, fell completely into the pit which they had digged
for us.—The evening before Ayres Tulloh and Hare had
called on us together, the former was (according to his
general policy) endeavouring to discover whether we had
any concealed property; on which I exclaimed “Captain
Ayres how should we have any thing left, except the bag-
gage in the vessel, which is of little value? as the Arabs
pillaged us to the utmost of their power; we were altogether

a set of poor creatures when we came to Calicut; and you
are well aware we have received nothing since.” ‘Answer
for yourself Mrs. Fay” cried Hare, “for my own part I
feel happy in saying, that, I am voz poor, I have property,
valuable property and shall not shrink from avowing that
I possess it.” I marked the eye of Ayres during this
bombastic speech, and have since found, that I was not
deceived in its expression.

Sudder Khan induced by this and other similar stories,
which the passengers had told of their own consequence,
determined to frighten them into the payment of a large
sum of money. Accordingly next morning (the 13th) he
sent a large party of seapoys to the Danish Factory, who
peremptorily demanded them as the Nabob’s prisoners.
Mr. Passavant at first refused, but on their threatening to
fire into his house, was constrained to yield to this out-ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 133

rageous violation of the most sacred rights, and delivered
his guests to slavery. God forbid that I should, generally
speaking, be capable of rejoicing in the miseries of my
fellow creatures, even where they merit punishment, but I
must own, (blame me if you will) that for a short time I
did feel satisfaction in this stroke of retributive Justice, in
as far as regarded the Tullohs, and Hare, for the vile con-
duct of these people, and the malevolence of their disposi-
tions, had steeled my heart against them.

It was certainly a curious sight to behold them, after all
their airs of superiority reduced to take up their residence
with us, whose situation, while singular, was the object of
their ridicule and contempt. The scene was however now
changed; although shey, like many others in the world,
were able to support their neighbour’s misfortunes with
stoical firmness, and even render them a source of amuse-
ment, each readily discovered when personally attacked by
a similar calamity, that close imprisonment is by no means
a proper subject on which to exercise wit, and that people
when in distress are not precisely in the humour for relish-
ing the pleasantry of others on their troubles. Tulloh
fortunately understood Moors, which is the general lan-
guage among the military throughout India ;—by this
means he got his trunks on shore the day after the seizure,
and saved them from the violent storm, which came on next
_ morning, wherein every one imagined the ship must have
been wrecked. How we wished to see her drive on shore!
especially when Sudder Khan the Governor who is Hyder’s
brother-in-law, was seen walking about in great perturba-
tion on the beach anxiously watching the vessel, praying
to Mahomet, and from time to time, casting up the sand
towards Heaven with earnest invocation and entreaties,aN ir ie
ee Aree eae

(PAPE AR eee ate kee
dem A wy eee kay CeCe St a

   

Ee act a a a ee Ta

134 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

that she might be spared, as a present to the great Hyder;
very probably fearing that some blame might attach to
him in case she were lost.

As it happened, however, all things went wrong for us
—The cabin and steerage where, our trunks had been
placed were soon filled with water, and every thing, such
as books, wearing apparel, beds, with laces, buckles, rings
&c. was either stolen or totally spoiled. These latter I
might have saved, when we were brought on shore, but
unfortunately the trunk, which contained my clothes, was
just wéthout the cabin-door, and two of the wretches who
watched us sat on it, so that I could not remove an
article. This disaster left us nothing except our lives to
be anxious about—-why do I say anxious! since life itself
on the terms we held it, was hardly worth preserving.
The other passenger’s baggage was injured but not like
our’s; for we, not being favorites, had been forced to keep
our packages at hand, during the voyage, as we had no one
to get them up when wanted, whereas the rest had theirs
stowed away in the hold and consequently little damage
befel them.

Many ships perished in this terrible hurricane. The
St. Helena which left Mocha a week after us, met with it,
and suffered so much that she was forced to put into Cochin,
(a Danish settlement in Latitude 10) with the loss of her
masts; and so greatly shattered besides, as to be compelled
to undergo a thorough repair.—If this happened to a fine
new vessel, one of the best sailors in India, what must have
become of us, had we continued five days longer at Sea?—
badly found in all respects, and worse manned; not half
people enough to work the ship properly, even in good
weather, was not this another hairsbreadth escape think

ed

a fe eae ert ee een et
Fe Dyce Dr > a 2 CG Bare fae mabae

pees
eg ol ae SRN
Gene Se by pease

face; ‘ ¢ 7
A Ver fe Gk Bu die Nak te Se ie sae ee he ay

  
  
    
  
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
   
  
  
  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 135

you, though by a dreadful alternative? The ways of
providence are inscrutable! But to revert to my main
subject,—glad shall I be when it is concluded; for I detest
matter of fact wréting, almost as much as matter of fact
conversation :—yet this story must be told in my own way,
or not at all.
When the gale ceased, the whole cargo was landed and
deposited in the Governor’s warehouses, where he caused
the Gentlemen’s baggage to be opened, and like a child
pleased with gewgaws, every article which struck the eye,
was instantly condemned as his booty. Poor Hare’s trunks
were stuffed with knickknacks like a Pedlar’s box: judge
then what agonies he appeared in, when the fatal moment
of examination approached, lest they should become, as
might be expected, objects of desire to the Governor.—
Not a single tooth pick case, knife, or knee-buckle was
produced, but what he declared had been received as a
pledge of friendship from different relations; parents,
brothers, sisters, male and female cousins, to the utmost
verge of propinquity, all put in their claims with success,
Tulloh serving as interpreter, until he was perfectly weary
of the office; ashamed of pleading such trifling causes, and
only deterred from throwing up his post, by the earnest
entreaties of Hare, who continued stamping, exclaiming
and fretting, as if his life depended on the issue. At last
a small paper bundle fell into the searcher’s hands, he then
became outrageous. “For Heayen’s sake, cried he my
dear friend, (almost breathless with apprehension) Oh for
Heaven’s sake endeavour to preserve ¢hzs parcel for me;
should it be taken I am an undone man, for I shall never be
able to replace the contents; let them take my clothes, my |
Law books, every thing, except my music books—all thatFae nee ere a
Od aie ae Se ae Sy * rem
re peat Gagne eae oe re

sr Eco Tae a Eee

re ee Eh hn Soe ERAN ae Fer
re eer, gaa Cae ten PT) Cte by

  

*nected with so many misfortunes, that my confidence was

136 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

I can yield without a sigh.” Tulloh imagining that the
contents must be of immense value to him from his extreme
agitation, earnestly interceded for the parcel; but obtained
it with great difficulty, as curiosity and avarice were
awakened by perceiving the convulsive eagerness with
which the owner petitioned for it—The former was soon
gratified and the latter consoled; for Hare tearing open the
parcel discovered to the astonished spectators neither more,
nor less, than an exquisite assortment of VENETIAN FIDDLE
strincs!! But, ah! dire mischance! the remorseless
waves, (which are neither respectors of persons or things)
had pervaded this invaluable treasure and rendered it
wholly useless; and to complete his misery the next thing
that presented itself to the sad owner’s eyes, was a most
expensive and finely toned Tenor violin, purchased at
Venice, and for which the precious strings were intended,
—broken all to pieces! J leave you to form any ideas
you may think proper on the subject of that extravagant

sorrow, such a character was likely to exhibit—and pass on

to matters more interesting.

The general introductory letter which, as you may recol-
lect, Mr. Franco gave us at Leghorn, had remained in Mr.
F—’s pocket book from that time, ’till we reached Calicut.
We had been told that Isaac, the Jewish merchant, who
agreed to freight the Nathalia, and received £700 as
earnest on that account, was zmmensely rich, and had great
credit with Government, of which he held several large
contracts for building ships &c. besides being a great
favourite with Sudder Khan. Every one also, even Ayres,
spoke highly of his general character. But our introduction
to Mr. Baldwin had been productive of, or at least con-ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 137

lost, and I dreaded making further applications, lest similar
events should ensue. This was very foolish reasoning you
will say, and I am ready to acknowledge it, the only excuse
to be made is, that my mind was weakened by calamity.
However after Tulloh and the rest of these people joined
us, our situation became, if possible, still more distressing
and we anxiously sought every practicable mode of relief.
Mr. F— therefore petitioned the Governor for leave to go
out under a guard, which being granted, he immediately
delivered his letter to Isaac, who seemed highly gratified at
hearing from Mr. Franco whom he had personally known
at Constantinople, when they were both young men, above
sexty years ago: for Isaac is also considerably turned of
eighty, and like him, enjoys full possession of his faculties,
both bodily and mental, being equally remarkable for tem-
perance and sobriety. Mr. F— could not speak to our
strangely acquired friend except by an interpreter; so that
no confidential conversation could take place. He was

apparently touched with pity for our sufferings, especially:

on hearing how much I was afflicted with illness. My
spirits were raised by the account my husband gave of his
visit, and soon after his favourable report was confirmed,
by my receiving a present brought to the Factory, by a
servant, belonging to the benevolent Jew, and which in our
situation was truly valuable, consisting of a catty of fine
tea, a tea-pot, and a tea-kettle. Although these things were
expressly sent to me, yet Mrs. Tulloh and her party seized
the last mentioned article, and forcibly kept it; so that I
was forced to make my tea, by boiling it in my tea-pot. Ah
my dear sister, I was at this time ill enough to be laid up
on a sick bed, and carefully nursed, yet was I thankful for
such food as I should once have loathed, and [I still con-

outa Naete: LS

ee!

~~

PCT Fr ek eo adil, Vict as
ARR AG Rea Ms
aS

ys

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

we
ae

oe 3

7 TET 5
ws in aes ts A
Bi
aa! ¥ ~ oS
<¢ an het eae = Fah ae

ey ee ee ies
Ri a Oat See I
+ as

Po edBo ee orca a
= a ES BC ead x peer? ane

at ewe ee te eee oe tee
Fee Me 5 Sars ai gS APES Ce nar ern eer,

Kan yd

i gl ra ey

1 ee

re Be bat fe Fac aic
ew Roy et
ova 4

  

AG ee cA ee baa
ee a
. 5

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
   
  
 
 

138 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

tinued to lie on my rattan couch, without a pillow or any
covering except my clothes, and surrounded by people
whom my very heart sickened to behold.

I will here by way of relaxation transcribe a few pas-
sages from my Journal, as nothing happened for some time
worthy of a particular recital; reserving to myself, how-
ever, the option of resuming the narrative style, whenever
I shall deem it necessary.

14th November, 1779.
Mr. Fay was sent for, this morning, to the Governor,
who asked him what he wanted? he replied, Liberty:—
there was no observation made on this answer, nor can we
conceive what Sudder Khan can mean by the detention of
so many persons, who never bore arms. They gave Mr.
Tulloh 30 rupees for our support. All we are able to
procure is tough, lean, old beef, goat’s flesh, and a not
unpleasant rice cake, but too sweet to be palatable with
meat; we preserve either with difficulty from our perpetual
visitors the crows, having no cup-board or place to put our
victuals in.—Of all existing creatures crows are surely the
most voracious, and the most persevering—I have seen
one with his eye fixed for a full half hour on a person, and
the instant that person’s eye was averted, pounce on the
bread, or whatever had been prepared and bear away the
prize. Mem.—Ayres is remarkably like these crows, he
has exactly their théevésh expression of countenance, and
the form of his head resembles their’s.

15th November, 1779.

The Gentlemen waited all day at the Governor’s house,
being promised their baggage, but he thought proper to
disappoint them—received 10 rupees subsistence money.St ee ert pf erteete arent

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 139

18th November.
A most impudent message brought from the Governor,
requiring all the gentlemen to enter into the Nabob’s
service; which they unanimously refused, with every mark
of contempt, and were in consequence ordered to be more
closely confined—One of Mr. Fay’s trunks brought on
shore containing wearing apparel, and law books, probably
much damaged, yet certainly valuable to him, as he has
mone remaining. Made application for it but without
success. ‘Tulloh received 20 rupees.

20th November.
Received notice to prepare immediately to set off for
Seringapatam, a large City about three hundred miles dis-
tant, where Hyder Ally usually resides—How can I sup-
port this journey over the mountains!—Mr. F— is about
drawing up a petition, representing the bad state of my
health, and entreating permission for me to proceed to
Cochin. We hope to prevail on Isaac to present it.

21st November.

Discover that the journey to Seringapatam was merely

a vile plot of the Governor’s to put us off our guard, and
thereby gain possession of what property had hitherto been
concealed; thank God this feint miscarried. A letter
reached us from Mr. O’Donnell, stating the arrival of the
St. Helena at Cochin. He laments our misfortune and
promises to take such methods as shall compel the Nabob

to do us speedy and effectual Justice. Heaven speed his
endeavours; this life is horrible.Be er er Dat

re a Neca
; FETS a rigeiry
Sy EO ne

boa’

=.

SRE AERN I amen TET ENMU
5 Coan! a REO ae IO

rete ey isn dt eg plaisir: EtG eh
a TR OR
i

ot

rho a ee er
bi UB ak Be ‘

     
  
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 

140 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 

22nd November.

The gentlemen waited five hours at the Governor’s for
their effects, but returned without them. He takes evident
satisfaction in seeing them like slaves attendant on his nod
—Five ships supposed to be English passed in front of
our prison. How peculiarly distressing did I feel this

sight!

23rd November, 1779.

Mrs. Tulloh being taken ill of a fever, application was

made to the Governor for medicines; but this happening

to be a high festival, he, like the Pharisees in Scripture,

refused to profane it by doing good—Should the woman
die in the interim what cares he?

24th November, 1779.
This morning got some medicines from the ship’s chest
—many flying reports of hostilities having actually com-
menced between Hyder Ally, and the English—should this
really prove true, our fate will be sealed for fe. Little
did I think when pleading the cause of the Chevalier de St.
Lubin at Mocha, that he had been raising a storm whose
effects would so materially involve us. Mem.—The lady
is well again.

28th November, 1779.

It is now certain that the Nayhirs * have laid siege to
Tellicherry; a settlement of our’s about a degree to the
northward; seven miles nearer lies Mahey which the
French held, ’till we took it from them in March last; but
not finding it worth keeping, have since evacuated it, after
dismantling the fortifications.Sig Got LW ar et hay
(eae 7

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 141

29th November, 1779.
Sudder Khan is about to march a thousand troops into
Mahey, under pretence of resuming it in the Nabob’s name,
but every one guesses this to be merely a feint to cover his
real intentions of privately assisting the N ayhirs ;—should
they succeed in their attack, Hyder will then throw off the
mask and declare war; but if the English conquer, he will
disavow the whole affair.

30th Navember.
I have now a lamentable tale to relate. We were this
morning hurried away at a moments warning to the fort,
crouded together in a horrid dark place scarcely twenty
feet square, swarming with rats, and almost suffocating for
want of air. Mr. and Mrs. Tulloh secured a small room
to themselves; but my husband and JI, were obliged to
pass the night among our companions in misery—rats con-
tinually gnawing the feet of my couch, whose perpetual
squeaking would have prevented sleep, had our harrassing
reflections permitted us to court its approach.

ist December, 1779.

Luckily discovered a trap-door, which led to some rooms,

or rather lofts, where no human foot had trod for many
many years. ‘These had been the store rooms of Angria
the Pirate,” and they certainly contain “a remnant of all
things”—Broken chairs—tables—looking-glasses—books,
even a spinnet was among, the articles, but beyond all re-
pair, and vast quantities of broken bottles, which had been
filled with liquors of all kinds: but the rats in their gambols
had made havoc among them. I remember when I should
have shuddered at the thoughts of sleeping in such a

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

eR 2 ee paris
Sieh et een ed ~

Ose kiss

yt = Oar eae iy alia big etic oe
et er CO ag jo Wipe ele os
Seine ee ql ern oy aes

ee!

Deepa es
= . has SOE “2 yap ge ee *
an gee
aSa aca an a eee De ee

eet re
Parr ie
Seer “ i

Sa a eR

Pe RS

coer rh eatin

Wie sg

  

ree oy
UR ry a A ALAN

dich Sa aaah po

142 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

wretched place; but now privacy gave it irresistible charms;
so having with difficulty obtained leave to occupy it, we
exerted every nerve to get a spot cleared out before dark,
for my couch; likewise so to arrange some bolts of canvas
which were among the spoils, as to form a sort of mattress
for Mr. F—; here we lay down, comparatively happy in
the hope of enjoying a tolerable nights rest; my husband
being provided with a long pole to keep off the rats; but
surely never were poor mortals so completely disappointed
and for my own part I may add, terrified—No sooner was
the light extinguished, than we heard a fluttering noise,
attended at intervals with squeaking—by degrees it ap-
proached the deds, and we felt that several creatures were
hovering over us, but of what description we were totally
ignorant—sometimes their wings swept our faces, seeming
to fly heavily—then again they would remove farther off,
but still continued squeaking—Good God! what horrors
I felt. Mr. F— protested that whole legions of evil spirits
had taken possession of our apartment, and were deter-
mined to expel the intruders. The rats also acted their
part in the Comedy; every now and then jumping towards
the beds, as we could hear; however Mr. F— on these occa-
sions laid about him stoutly with his pole, and thus kept
them at bay; but our winged adversaries were not so easily
foiled;—they persisted in their assaults ’till day-break,
when what should we find had caused all this disturbance,
but a parcel of poor harmless bats! whose “‘ancient solitary
reign we had molested.”” To any one accustomed to see or
hear these creatures our terror must appear ridiculous, but
to me who had never chanced to meet with any such, the
idea never occurred, nor did even Mr. Fay suggest any
probable or natural cause of alarm. We cannot helpORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 143

laughing very heartily at it ourselves now, and you are at
full liberty to do the same.

2d December.

Ayres called to tell us that two ships of the line, and

a frigate had just passed towards Tellicherry—We shall

soon hear news from thence; Oh! that it may change our

hard destiny !—The Governor marched at the head of his
troops towards Tellicherry.

10th December.

Application was made this morning to the Lieutenant
Governor by Mr. Isaac, who I am now convinced is our
true friend, representing that this air disagreeing with me
I requested permission to remove to Cochin, and that my
husband, on account of my extreme ill health, might
accompany me. He promised to consult Sudder Khan
upon it. The Quelladar or Governor of the Fort, spent
some time with us this morning;—he is a fine old man,
with a long red beard, and has altogether a most interest-
ing appearance:—and here I may as well give a short
description of this place.

Calicut then, is situated on the coast of Malabar in 11°
north latitude and 75° east longitude.” It was formerly
a very considerable town governed by a Zamorin, who also
held the adjoining country; but has been some years in the
possession of Hyder Ally, of whom you must have heard
on occasion of his war with the English in 1770. They
would certainly have put an end to the reign of this
Usurper, had he not discovered a method of influencing the
principal persons in power, in consequence of which he
obtained a peace, much more honourable and advantageousDEPTS Rn HET ee

a mE aad
Bent oo ere PS Coe ao enero Sage ee Oe Ue SiCOaL aya

ae

ee eo eee oe kh ete
Vig bay ge opi Boge eee
et hak

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

144 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 

to himself than to those who granted it. Having acquired
by his genius and intrepidity every thing that he enjoys, he
makes his name both feared and respected; so that nobody
chooses to quarrel with him. I have indeed heard a com-
parison drawn between him and the King of Prussia, though
I think much to the disadvantage of the latter; as suppos-
ing their natural abilities to be equal,—the great Frederick
ought znfinitely to surpass a man who can neither write nor
read, which is the case with Hyder. The lawful Prince
of the country of which he has usurped the Government is
held by him in actual confinement, though with every out-
ward shew of respect, by which means he prevents the
people from rising, lest their legitimate sovereign should
fall a sacrifice to his resentment.

The fort must have been formerly a strong place, but
is now in a dilapidated state—the walls are very thick, and
they mount guard regularly; which was one inducement
for sending us here; as Ayres told the Governor it was
not worth while to keep a hundred seapoys watching us,
when they were wanted elsewhere and that the fort was
quite good enough for us to live in;—these arguments pre-
vailed and here we were sent. When I first arrived I was
so extremely ill, as to be scarcely sensible of what passed
for some hours; but I remember Hare burst into a violent
flood of tears, declaring that we were all doomed to death
by our removal to this wretched spot, which being com-
pletely surrounded by stagnant water, could not fail to
produce some of those disorders so fatal to Europeans. We
have not however hitherto experienced any complaint. The
loft we sleep in is indeed disgusting beyond belief, and the
Quelladar, I suppose at the suggestion of Ayres, has ordered
the easier of the two ways of entrance, that discovered bySA 3 ich wot a)
a "i ‘

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 145

Mr. F— to be blocked up; so that there is no way left but
by means of a ladder placed almost in a perpendicular
direction :—there is a rope by which to hold, or it would
be impossible for any person to descend, but even with this
assistance, I have great difficulty to reach the bottom.

11th December, 1779.

Peremptorily ordered to make ready for a journey to

Seringapatnam. By the Governor’s desire delivered an In-

ventory of our losses: he promises full restitution, but has

given no answer to my request. I am full of solicitude on

this subject; but would submit to any thing rather than
remain in this wretched place.

12th December, 1779.

Mr. F— waited twice on the Lieut. Governor but with-
out effect. What can he mean by thus trifling with us?
is it merely a wanton exercise of power, or intended to
hide some dark design? these perpetual surmises distract
me. Mem. Tulloh received 144 rupees to pay alJ our debts
but took especial care not to let us have a single rupee,

what wretches we are cast among! riy very soul rises at
them.

13th December, 1779.

Mr. F— was sent for by the Governor, who told him,
that we might both have permission to go to Cochin when-
ever we thought proper; that he would furnish a boat and
pay every incidental expense, besides making entire satis-
faction for damages sustained,—Can all this good news be
true? How suspicious I grow? what a change from being

credulous—yet where is the wonder after being so fre-
quently deceived?ec = apataake ae Laer aa m

ea ee rere tS
So RE OPTED Vat manna = wee a aolccur ah atreree cr a giapauane ie IR nee OE) EE

  

es ha ae A

Oe Mia fea rie ae

146 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

14th December, 1779.
Preparations are going on briskly all day with our fel-
low passengers, who are eager for their departure, as well
they may. Every thing which was taken from them on
shore, has been this day restored, but those left in the ship
are irrecoverable; of course we benefit nothing by this
restitution—Mr. F— could not obtain our promised licence
to-day.— These delays, weigh down my spirits, and increase
all my complaints. I have still much pain in my breast;
Oh that I fear, will prove a fatal blow—TI shall have a
great loss in Mr. Taylor.

15th December, 1779.
The Governor still withholding our licence under pre-
tence of business, I advised Mr. F— to insist on being
zmmediately dispatched, or in case of refusal, by all means
to declare himself ready to accompany the others; for I
saw clearly that should they once leave us, it must then be
entirely at this fellow’s option, whether we went all or not,
and who would not rather run the risk of even dying of
fatigue on the journey, than hazard remaining at the mercy
of such wretches! I dread, lest this should be part of the
old plan of which I have since never heard, and had almost
forgotten it. It is much easier to practise against two
individuals than a whole company.

16th December.

The Doolies (a kind of shabby Palanquin in which a
person sits upright and is carried between two men) arrived
this morning about ten. The gentlemen went to take leave,
when Tulloh earnestly represented our case, to which the
Governor replied, that he could not possibly attend to otherORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 147

matters till they were gone, but pledged his word that
nothing should arise on his part to detain us a single hour
afterwards; every one agreed with me how dangerous it
was to trust such fallacious promises. On my knees I
intreated Mr. F— to pursue the method I had before
pointed out, but my advice was despised. At nine in the
evening the party commenced their journey, having first
stripped the place of provisions and every thing else, which
having been bought out of the general purse we had an
undoubted right to share. They even took my tea kettle,
but luckily the man who had it in charge forgot it amidst
the hurry of departure, by which means I recovered it. My
heart sunk within me at seeing them quit the fort, not from
motives of personal esteem or regret you may suppose, for
it was impossible to grieve for the loss of some of the
company; we parted with as much indifference as absolute
strangers ; after a fellowship in misfortune sufficient to have
united almost any other society more closely than an inter-
course of years under common circumstances. I went to
bed, but in spite of every endeavour to calm the agitation
of my mind, passed a sleepless night.

17th December.

Rose in extreme anxiety which was far from being
diminished by a message from the Governor, ordering Mr.
F— not to attend him ’till the evening; accordingly at four
o'clock he sat out, and as I felt extremely ill, the certain
consequence of fretting and want of rest, I lay down and
had just sunk into a doze, when my poor husband flew into
the room like a madman, uttering a thousand extravagant
expressions. Starting up in new and indescribable terror,
and wringing my hands, I begged only to know what had

=

eRe TR RO
ee Oe
=

SHOE Gk cae
sides kite DS

Ses Ph ey
Bl a i a

   
 
 
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
   
  
 
  
 
 

Sas eels
5 c spe
SPSSBn

Ber a eae

Sa eens
get ms Skee ES pate ae -
eae

- Tama Eas
isa ce. et

agree a 22 ee
eee
STU Sear
CT etn

4 oo H
4 7 4
MP
~

p c
oii GER ch cade boyy
Teves epee eon AE

  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

148 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

happened. “Happened?” cried he “why we are betrayed,
ruined, utterly undone; you must leave this place instantly,
or you may be made a prisoner here for ever.” Where are
we to go? I very naturally asked! I heard not the answer,
my head swam, and I dropped on the floor completely over-
powered.—Whatever happened at that fearful moment I
forget and endeavour to banish from my mind, as the effect
of insanity—How he accomplished it I know not, but Mr.
F— actually carried me in his arms down that almost per-
pendicular ladder which I have described and placed me
on a kind of bier: I was in this manner conveyed to my
former habitation—I opened my eyes and became for a few
moments sensible of the motion, but soon fainted again,
and did not recover ’till I found myself once more entering
the English Factory as a prisoner.

I now inquired, what was the cause of this change in
our abode: and learnt that Mr. F— being refused leave to
depart, had became so exasperated as wholly to lose all self-
command; and rushing up to the musnud (throne) of the
Lieutenant Governor had actually seized him, peremptorily
insisting on the immediate fulfilment of his promise. Such
conduct might have been expected to bring down énstant
destruction; but fortunately every one present was per-
suaded that grief and vexation had literally turned his
brain; and they are not only much terrified at every species
of madness, but from their religious prejudices, regard the
sufferers under these complaints with a superstitious awe.
Swayed by these mingled emotions the wicked Governor
condescended to temporize with my husband, acknowledg-
ing that he had no power to release us without the Nabob’s
order which in consideration of my ill health he would
endeavour to procure; and to pacify him further, he per-ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA T49

mitted our return to this place, where we are certainly in
every respect more comfortably situated. But these con-
cessions went little towards allaying that fever of passion,
which his continual and cruel delays had excited: thence

arose the alarm I experienced and which for a time so
materially affected my health.

19th December, 1779.
Received five rupees subsistence money which we were
informed were the last we should ever have. I cannot

conceive what they mean to do with us or what will be
our fate at last.

21st December, 1779.
The Governor sent for Mr. F— to offer him a com-

mission in the Nabob’s service and on his absolute refusal,
swore that he might subsist how he could: that his masters
money should no longer be lavished on idlers, then in a
rage ordered palanquins. “you shall go to Seringapatam”’
said he “they will soon teach you better manners there”
Mr. F— joyfully acquiesced in this mandate,—we pro-
vided necessaries for our journey which was fixed for the
24th; but the other knew better than to keep his word, so

this like all our former views, and expectations of liberty
ends in smoke, shall I say?

26th December, 1779.

A very melancholy Christmas-day passed yesterday.
My dear friends little imagined they were drinking the
health of a poor prisoner, (for I know you did not forget
us) neither were we forgotten here, if empty compliments
can be styled remembrance. All the Europeans and several

os

’

a
Si es

Sy hese Sie
SiN
ca att .

  
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
  
 
 

tte

Sey we ie B
pe oe Aceg ee
neta peaNO
ate

a a ce ra are A

rae Os Peas OU aD ah
5 . 5
5 AR Meh Li

ee eh as
Dees cibeteee

be Sp trad a 80

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

150 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

of the natives attended our Levée. But alas! what relief
can mere ceremonious visits afford to misfortune! say
rather that aided by recollection, such shadowy comforts
add keenness to afflictions sting. I feel my mind insensibly
raised whenever I attempt to expatiate on any subject
which tends to revive the ideas of our separation. Even
now I tread forbidden ground; for your sakes as well as
my own, let me hasten to escape by skipping over this dan-
gerous season of Christmas. I therefore pass on.

10th January, 1780.

The little money saved was nearly expended, and we
must soon have been reduced to our last mite had not
providence sent us relief from a quarter little dreamed of.
Mr. F— wrote about a week ago to Mr. Church, Governor
of Tellicherry inclosing a memorial of our case, which he
requested might be translated into the language of the
country and proper methods used for its safe delivery to
Hyder Ally himself. This morning brought in reply, a
most generous humane letter from Mr. Church; which,
after acknowledging himself honoured by our application,
and promising his utmost concurrence in every measure
we may think necessary, concludes thus “my heart bleeds
for your distresses, and those of Mrs. F— she in particular
must have suffered greatly. I have taken the liberty to
accompany this letter by an order for two hundred rupees
to serve present occasions: Any sum you may in future
require a line to me shall always command it, as I know
the difficulty of procuring remittances where you are. Eng-
lishmen ought to feel for each other; we are not without
our share of troubles here; and I verily believe Hyder is at
the bottom of all.” Now pray does not this letter deservePAEAM Goths NR LSet aeh Sah We Dyk

     
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
  
 
   
 
  
 

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA I5I

more than I have said of it! just thus would my dear father
have treated a distressed countryman—Methinks I see his
benevolent heart venting itself in tears of sympathy at the
recital. Precious tears! why am I not permitted to mingle
mine with them! for they will flow in spite of my en-
deavours to restrain their course.

11th January.

Having now money to bribe with, we began to think

of attempting an escape; for besides the silence observed
on the fate of our companions, though near a month has
elapsed since their departure, we live in continual dread of
being forced up the country and perhaps massacred there:
Every one who leaves this place must first obtain permis-
sion from the Governor, but as these passes only mention
generally so many people and are granted indiscriminately
to whoever applies for them, provided they be not suspected
persons, one may easily be procured under feigned pretences
(it is a matter frequently done.) A Friar belonging to the
Portuguese convent, usually manages these affairs when
properly instructed. This information we have from a
Native Portuguese named Pereira, an officer in Hyder’s
service, with whom Mr. F— commenced an intimacy while
we were in the Fort, and who is now quartered here at his
special request. Tho’ I must confess I cannot like this
man, yet am I obliged to trust him. The visits we receive
from Ayres are terrible trials to one who loathes dissimula-
tion as I do. This wretch has once or twice mentioned a
cow that annoyed him by entering the little garden, or
paddock, in which it appears his house is placed; this
morning he entered the factory with his scymitar in his
hand unsheathed, and bloody, and with an expression ofeet ie

ee aah ae eat el aes
a x AEG Pee rey ro 4 a Liane hee

~

Fa eh a a

pete Pee eer eee ——— ae : IE Sao :
re + ta om oo or ar ote - _ or = ot
pa Sear = = an ay 7 7 rc penny SST Sg aT Ta Se oes Sa
Ta ead area meena RES FY wee 3 gn a ear ee ae RE Sean 2 caiman meet 3 tex GON
FO Oe RpeeRe ioe Rove : S ea pee Led Ae TT ne ed =
Rom rime Cachan hte wnat Ine nme" mi a Sem Sur eas ae aoe ere os a
ares Rip ncaa er ans! a TRE Fy OC s Z ES > ee Pete hae
Sao oe a 3 et ig RR OF, FI AT alien! eee CR A el aeohaudnoieee’ Py oe oS SSR CORON hed

eS eS eas
pat IS

a
Te
(oe
ee
hey &
ea cs
ae
hea
Chel
4
heh 0
Career)
ta
5 1?
t rs

ce

ae ea

——

Vie EDDY pe

  

152 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

diabolical joy informed me that he had just caught the ani-
mal entering and being armed had completely chined her.
You cannot imagine said he, how sweetly the sword did the
business; my very heart shuddered with horror and in-
dignation, yet I dared not give vent to those feelings. I
doubt not he would murder me with as much pleasure as
he killed the cow with; and have no reason to suppose he
would be punished for the act.

12th January, 1780.
Some quarrel unknown to me has certainly taken place
between Pereira and Mr. F— the looks of the former
alarm me; his dark scowling eye is frequently directed
towards him, with an expression of dreadful import; yet
he appears desirous of forwarding our escape——He has
introduced us to father Ricardo, who engages to provide
us all things for our departure to Cochin.

13th January, 1780.
The priest breakfasted with us, and promised to set
about the business without loss of time; he is to receive
twenty rupees, on our setting off from hence, and twenty
more on our arrival at Cochin or Tellichery, through the
medium of Isaac, on whom the order from Mr. Church
was drawn, by which means we received it without sus-
picion.

14th January, 1780.

A Licence or Passport is procured for us as two French-
men going to Mahey. We have paid twenty rupees boat-
hire to a smuggler; these are commonly very courageous
men; which is some comfort to me: under Mr. F—’s pro-a a Ayere sy
ob ie dlc O

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 153

tection and his, I will endeavour to think myself secure.
His house is admirably situated for our purpose, close by
the sea side; this is to be our place of rendezvous. The
precise time is not yet fixed upon: the intervening hours
how anxiously will they pass!

15th January, 1780.

The boatman called to desire we would be at his house

at six this evening ;—gave him our little baggage (we had
been obliged to purchase many necessaries) and four rupees
to buy provisions. When it grew dark, Mr. F— put on
a sailor’s dress and I equipped myself in a nankeen Jacket—
a pair of long striped trowsers—a man’s night cap, and over
that a mighty smart hat,—with a pair of Mr. F—’s shoes
tied on my feet, and a stick in my hand. In this dress
Mr. F— declared that I was the very image of my dear
father, which highly gratified me. I had tied the clothes
we took off, in a handkerchief; with that in one hand and
brandishing my stick in the other, I boldly sallied forth,—
taking care, however, to secure a retreat in case of acci-
dents, a most fortunate precaution as the event proved.—
Father Ricardo met us at the smuggler’s according to ap-
pointment and we paid him twenty rupees, and gave him
security for the other twenty; when this was settled, noth-
ing remained as we supposed, but to step into the boat,—
when behold! news was brought that the sailors had made
their escape no one knew whither! after waiting two hours
in that dangerous situation to see if they would return, and
raving in all the folly of angry disappointment against
those who had misled me, we made a virtue of necessity
and trudged back to our prison, where we luckily effected
an entrance without exciting suspicion.

e

eg
See

et ae ite ws
= she ere
Sipe ot
seep Det

eo

naeSheng?
Pree aad LO

an oe rere ay

re

Deer ee to eer ET
Fee set re enn ene

oe ere
ste Nl POT oe
Cama e i ee :

a

yo ie

  

154 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

17th January, 1780.
Had all arranged for our escape last night but so many
people were about us, that we dared not make the attempt.

19th January, 1780.

Father Ricardo has once more arranged all things for

to-night,—we must give more money, but that is no

object. Once free and we shall doubtless find means of
proceeding on our journey.

5th February, 1780.

Every day has this wicked priest contrived some scheme,

to amuse us with false hopes of escaping; every night
have we lain down in the full persuasion that it was the
last we should pass in confinement; and as constantly have
we awoke to meet bitter disappointments.—This continued
alternation of hope and fear preys on my spirits and pre-
vents me from gaining strength, but yesterday I received a
serious shock from the behaviour of Pereira, and which ex-
cited more alarm than almost any circumstance that has
occurred to me—I had long marked his hatred to Mr.
F— and dreaded his revenge—I was setting at work when
he entered the room—naked from the middle—just as Mr.
F— was going into the next room. His strange appear-
ance and the quick step with which he followed my husband
caught my attention; and I perceived that he held a short
dagger close under his arm, nearly all concealed by his
handkerchief and the exigency of the moment gave me
courage.—I sprung between him and the door through
which Mr. F— had just passed, drawing it close and secur-
ing it to prevent his return, and then gently expostulated
with P— on the oddness of his conduct and appearance;a A ser Eo ge

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 155

he slunk away, and I hope, will never trouble us again,
especially as he has adopted another mode of revenge
which may perhaps be equally effectual though more slow
in its operation. He went to Ayres and informed him that
we had endeavoured to escape, mentioning every particular
of our scheme, and, as far as I can learn, telling the whole
truth; but fortunately naming a different evening from the
one on which our unsuccessful attempt really was made on
which Ayres exclaimed, “‘well Pereira you have made up a
very fine story, but without a word of truth, for on the
very night you mention, F— was setting with me over a

bottle of wine; I’ll take my oath of that for it was my birth
night” this was true likewise, so we were saved for that
time; but as Ayres knows that escape is in our heads he
will, I fear, guard us with redoubled vigilance, and so far
Pereira’s design has taken effect.

6th February, 1780.
Mr. F— has completely detected the pious father
Ricardo, and his worthy colleague the smuggler, and sorely
against their will compelled them to refund his money all to
about twenty three rupees, which they pretend has been dis-
bursed. We now discovered, that although our offers might
tempt their avarice and lead them to deceive us, yet they
dared not persevere in assisting our escape; as the conse-
quence of detection would to them be inevitable death.

loth February, 1780.

At length I begin to cherish hopes of our speedy re-
lease, as Sudder Khan returned last night from Seringa-
patnam ; but is encamped without the Town, waiting for a
lucky day, till when he dares not enter his own house.—So

a es ’
So

“ xk y ae ae Oy
ig aN PEORIA Re A Suse.
Bae A eh a a

se

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

rs ore SR AT SPS EY
Baten CeO Se yarenel he Moasedere ahi
See piersParal ing 2 Sb ar

Pd SB Seeder haa ech Ue
OS TEATS Se Foren iy pita the Bag ee
Py Giwrehe ele te ene
yitogtiP

     
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

156 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

how long we may still be detained, Heaven knows—Mr.
F— and our friend Isaac propose paying him a visit to-

MOrrow.

13th February, 1780.

They went out on Friday and again to-day, but have
not yet been able to obtain an audience; and thus we may
perhaps be led on a fortnight longer, by his ridiculous
superstitions. Mr. Isaac, however, assures my husband,
that from all he can learn it is really intended to release us,
which makes me comparatively easy; yet it is impossible
not to feel severely this delay, at such a critical period; for
should Hyder commence hostilities against the English,
whilst we remain in his power, not all Isaac’s influence will
be sufficient to extricate us from it; our doom must be

sealed for life.

2 a mae clo ees Pema — —— ee
ae eae See Rig RE ee eo ee A
gs - Sona oo stele eal Gee yoy Ses sha te 5
ates Te. PRO er aces eae Rt Se AOE ae mp =
ses Pe pec ae a aoe OE Ce ieee Se on

Ne ere
Peer ae rs

14th February.
Our indefatigable advocate walked out with Mr. F— (1
should have mentioned that the distance is about three
miles) but they were again disappointed, Sudder Khan
being still closely shut up at his devotions, which are to
continue two days longer at least—How very distressing to
be kept in this horrible suspense: But our friend still com-
forts us with the assurance, that a// will be well——He really
behaves to me like a father, and as I have now acquired
some knowledge of Portuguese, we are enabled to converse
tolerably well. I do not recollect having described his per-
son, and will therefore endeavour to give you some, though
a very inadequate idea of it.
Isaac then is a fine venerable old man, about eighty-five
with a long white beard; his complexion by no means dark,“Ea AE SO a

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 157

and his countenance benign yet majestic; I could look at
him, till I almost fancied that he resembled exactly the
Patriarch whose name he bears, were it not for his eye,
which is still brilliant. His family I find according to
ancient custom in the East, consists of two Wives, to whom
I am to have an introduction.

15th February.

Saw a letter to-day from Mr. Tulloh, to Mr. Passavant
the Danish Factor, dated 19th January, which mentions,
that they were fifteen days on their journey to Seringapatam
and twelve more confined in a shed, half starved to death,
as no one was permitted to assist them except with the
coarsest food in small quantities; at length the Nabob
granted them an audience, when having listened to their
complaint, he sent for Sudder Khan, to answer the charge.
“Three successive days” says Tulloh “we were all sent for,
and confronted with him, when Hyder commanded him
to make instant restitution, however, we have as yet re-
ceived nothing except that yesterday on taking leave his
highness presented us with five hundred rupees for our
journey to Madras, besides ordering Palanquins, carriages
for our baggage, and every other convenience, likewise a
guard of a hundred seapoys to conduct us into the English
bounds. I spoke to him for Mr. and Mrs. F— and ob-
tained an order for their release also. Whether the ship
will be returned or not, God Knows, we are just going to
set off.” Thus far Tulloh. Now the man who brought
this letter, saw them all go and remained at Seringapatam
ten days afterward, without hearing further; so I hope we
may conclude they are out of theér troubles. Mrs. Tulloh
has now seen enough poor woman to satisfy her taste forzB iy 2 RAVE Gop ah le alae oe ie a PUR SE Bd, ener ee sat SAD hoe Bl ee |
ae rete aU eb ae CEE ORT Fae TT ret

Paes U
gt Se eS ie

     
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 

158 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Fo reer at ee

adventures. From all I can learn, it would have been
utterly impossible for me to have supported the various
hardships of their journey, in my precarious state of health;
poor Mr. Taylor how sincerely do I pity him.

eee es betes
5 EG TTT
eect eet at ee Ae ha

17th February, 1780.

Mr. Isaac called by appointment about two o’clock and
took my husband with him, to walt once more on the Gov-
ernor. He seems to entertain no doubt of bringing back
the order for our release. JI endeavour to be calm and to
rest with confidence on his assurance; but when I con-
template the dreadful alternative, should he meet a per-
emptory refusal, and recollect the deep machinations that
have been practised to keep us here, my heart recoils at the
“idea. It is now eight in the evening; every thing is packed
up and ready for our departure yet they return not.
Some obstacle I fear must have been thrown in the way by
that vile Sudder Khan to prevent our liberation, and we are
destined to remain his wretched prisoners. How shall I
support the intelligence? Heaven inspire me with forti-
tude! I can neither write, nor attend to any thing!

A ene eee om
“ FO ee SS ae eR atta ace RTE
aaa ~ Soe ea ie tne oy s es *) Pa ashes secertee Co?
Seen cae We eae ee DE nl Pha temp ee ar ee
Ghote epee eee oe. ORE eta: o is ri a AN ve

 

id GTO eaeLetter XIII

Cochin, 19th February, 1780.
Tuanks be to Providence that I am at length permitted to
address my beloved friends from this land of liberty towards
which my wishes have so long pointed. After wading
through my melancholy journal, you will be enabled in
some measure to form an idea of the joy that fills my breast
on contemplating the contrast between my present situation,
and that from which I have so recently escaped—lI will not
however indulge in reflections, but hasten to proceed with
my narrative, which broke off at a most interesting period
in my last letter, when I was every instant expecting the
news of our release.

I was not relieved from suspense till near twelve on
Thursday night, when the gentlemen returned bringing
with them the so anxiously desired passports for ourselves,
and such trifling articles as remained in our possession ;
more than this I find they could not obtain for us, though
absolute promises of restitution and remuneration had been
frequently held out. This however seemed a slight evil
compared with what even one days detention might pro-
duce ; we therefore abandoned all thought of farther appli-
cation on the subject, and on Friday 18th February, at
5 A.M. joyfully quitted our detested prison, and repaired
to the house of our steady friend and benefactor Isaac,
when we found one of his own sloops prepared to convey
us to Cochin, with every necessary refreshment on board.

Thus by the indefatigable exertions of this most excellent
£59

eee ey (og en

Pettey scr tatters gels ae oe St nesyBae peace

CARS ek te eT
as SOP tod pein an ok ta
Ao Oe babe seen

    

160 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

man, we are at last released from a situation of which it is
impossible for you to appreciate the horrors. To him we
are indebted for the inestimable gift of liberty. No words
can I find adequate to the expression of my gratitude. In
whatever part of the world and under whatever circum-
stances my lot may be cast; whether we shall have the
happiness to reach in safety the place to which all our hopes
and wishes tend, or are doomed to experience again the
anxieties and sufferings of captivity; whether I shall pass
the remainder of my days in the sunshine of prosperity, or
exposed to the chilling blasts of adversity; the name of
Isaac the Jew will ever be associated with the happiest
recollections of my life; and while my heart continues to
beat, and warm blood animates my mortal frame, no dis-
tance of time or space can efface from my mind, the grateful
remembrance of what we owe to this most worthy of men.
When we were plundered and held in bondage by the
Mahometan robbers amongst whom we had fallen; when
there was no sympathizing friend to soothe us among our
Christian fellow captives; when there was no hand to help
us, and the last ray of hope gradually forsook the darkening
scene of our distress; kind Providence sent a good Samaritan
to our relief in the person of this benevolent Jew, who
proved himself an Israelite indeed. Oh my dear sister!
how can I in the overflowing of a grateful heart do other-
wise than lament, that the name of this once distinguished
people should have become a term of reproach! Exiled
from the land promised to the seed of Abraham; scattered
over the face of the earth, yet adhering with firmness to the
religion of their fathers, this race once the boasted favourites
of Heaven, are despised and rejected by every nation in the
world. The land that affords shelter, denies them a partici-

eee eee TT
S am 2 a FPR aN hy eao ar a aerator tT Lt caer) rT
see “se beaten Sie ae SR AE TICS UF abe aA SEE ees " iter

hee)

ae PT
Sr
> EA PO,

 

TTORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 161

pation in the rights of citizenship. Under such circum-
stances of mortifying contempt, and invidious segrega-
tion, it is no wonder that many of the children of Israel
in the present day evince more acuteness than delicacy in
their transactions, and are too well disposed to take ad-
vantage of those, from whom they have endured so much
scorn and persecution. It gives me therefore peculiar
pleasure to record their good deeds, and to proclaim in my
limited circle, that such men as a Franco and an Isaac,
are to be found among the posterity of Jacob. These
sentiments are not overstrained but the genuine effusions
of a thankful heart: as such receive them.

19th February, 1780.

This morning about eleven we arrived at our long wished
for Port, and were landed close to the house of our good
friend Isaac which is pleasantly situated by the river
side about a mile from Cochin, and rendered in every
respect a most delightful residence. Here we were wel-
comed by the two wives of Isaac who were most
splendidly dressed to receive us, rather overloaded with
ornaments yet not inelegant. Indeed I think the Eastern
dresses have infinitely the advantage over ours; they are
much more easy and graceful; besides affording greater
scope for the display of taste, than our strange unnatural
modes. They were extremely hospitable and very fond
of talking.

I mentioned before, having learned:a little Portuguese
during my imprisonment, which was of great advantage
to me here, for except Malabars, it is the only language
they speak, and a miserable jargon indeed is what they call
Portuguese here—However we contrived to make our-

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

SET a ag Le eT AR ET IO REL yee NTR aryCer rare riety ray eae

ay Lanes
ed al

MARTI NeD
Pe -
5S es

ee

a ea

Ee Nee eh Be Fo
Reese ee Pee Sea ee a ee eee

  

a
Dp i gts eo a)
Sal Be is Hi pe EY |

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

162 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

selves mutually understood so far as to be convinced that
each was kindly disposed towards the other. Had I been
differently circumstanced, it would have given me great
pleasure to have accepted the pressing invitations of these
ladies to pass some time with them—the entire novelty of
the scene would have amused me. Novel I may wel/ call
it, in more respects than one; we were entertained with
all the profusion that wealth can command, and generosity
display. Though religious prejudices banished us from
their table, ours was loaded with every delicacy,—all served
on massive plate; among many other articles of luxury
which I had never seen before, were numbers of solid silver
Peekdanees, which served the purpose of spitting boxes
(excuse the term.) They stood at each end of the couches
in the principal room: some of them were nearly three feet
high, with broad bottoms; the middle of the tube twisted
and open at the top, with a wide mouth, for the convenience
of such as had occasion to expectorate. These are not
what we should call delicate indulgences in England; but
in a country where smoking tobacco and chewing betel
are universally practised, they must be allowed to be neces-
sary ones.

You will judge what a change these apartments were to
me when contrasted, not with our prison in the Fort of
Calicut, for our residence there was undoubtedly the acme
of wretchness, but even with the house in which I had so
long lived, without any furniture at all, save my unmat-
tressed couch, an old table and three broken chairs; and
where many a time the poor Portuguese lad who served us,
had entered at the hour of dinner empty handed, exclaim-
ing that the dogs had carried off all that had been provided.
My own face I never saw during the whole period, thereORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 163

not being so much as the fragment of a looking-glass to be
obtained.

The younger wife of Isaac attached herself to me in
such a manner as I never before experienced, and really
appeared as if she could not bear to part with me, even when
I went with my husband to see the town of Cochin, which
is truly a very pretty romantic place; but what was far
more to my satisfaction, we luckily found Mr. Moore there,
who proposed sailing the next day, and kindly offered us
a passage on the St. Helena, which you may be sure we
gratefully accepted. On our way back we were accosted
by a Captain Richardson, whose ship is under repair here,
and will be ready in about six weeks. He shook hands
with us as country folks, and directly offered us both a
passage to Bengal with every accommodation in his house
during our stay here,—a most liberal proposal; was it
not? and which would have been very fortunate for us, had
we missed the St. Helena; in the present case his offer was
of course declined, but I shall ever recollect the kindness
which dictated it, and trust opportunities will be afforded
to evince my gratitude.

On the 21st, at 5 a.m. Mr. F— left me with my new
friends, promising to return for me in half an hour, to the
great grief of the fair Jewess who was become so fond of
me—but alas! I waited hour after hour, and no husband
returned. I was in the greatest anxiety and consternation
imaginable, dreading lest some new disaster had overtaken
us, and that our ill starred journey was again stopped short
in its course—It is impossible for you to conceive what I
suffered during his absence and how my mind was harrassed
by various tormenting conjectures,—those only, who have
been subject to such cross accidents as I have so frequently

oes An Oe Ti tb y eto
perc terpecten oe ear meoeresonteer erar eele le 6Cath pe Nepales OBO 2 eee ie ay
Ohueiriar ey as us Lon 8 ea ek ts eat
5a Way aA atc Baa her lak OR Lg, By tlie eke Ba

  

Bee TE ROTO PLT ITT ee ake

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

164 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

eerie rae arty Ce eee
ne te a b Scee ete pe Aree > Le

experienced, can judge of my feelings—At length about
noon he made his appearance, and very calmly began un-
packing the chest as if to replace the things at his leisure—
I asked of course what had occurred and if Mr. Moore
had changed his intention? “Why, answered he, Moore
and all the rest are gone on board, but somehow I dont
think he will sail to-day for all that.” This reply almost
bereft me of my senses, knowing the consequence of being
left behind would be a journey by land to Madras, (for he
would never have had patience to wait till Captain Richard-
son’s ship was ready) the expense of gvhich alone must
amount to eight or nine hundred rupees, not to mention the
intolerable fatigue of travelling in this Country. Aware
that if I did not exert myself all was lost, I took a hasty
leave of our kind friends, and we immediately proceeded to
Cochin with our little baggage, and sent out for a boat, but
by this time the afternoon breeze had set ‘in and the sea ran
so high, that none would venture over the Bar; at last a man
agreed to provide a large boat and take us off for sixteen
rupees. When we came to the water side, what should this
mighty boat prove, but a narrow Canoe with paddles,
scarcely big enough to contain us and our four rowers. I
hesitated—the people ran round me on all sides, intreating
me not to venture, and assuring us both by words and
gestures that the danger was imminent. Captain Richard-
son who was among them declared that, it would be next
to a miracle if we escaped: indeed every moment evidently
increased the risk; but Mr. F— now seeing the error of his
delay, swore to run all hazards, rather than stop any longer
at Cochin: a common practice with most people who have
in brought themselves into difficulties by their imprudence
me : and who seek to regain by obstinacy, what they have lost

one,

EN a eae en ne ee eet Syren te Sa
i as Ps sf - mee A ae, - we ss Or | i ala
o thet s ma A EP rT lanl aes ie
= 6 prs ro a) a Pr oe a ba i ‘ <)

 

ae *
we

TS eee

FR = SECS
maattarekane ements

re RR RS

‘,SO Ee terry ear aetna been mts

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 165

through folly. Pity such cannot always suffer alone. Find-
ing him positive I commended myself to the protection of
the Almighty and stepped in; all the spectators seeming
to look upon me as a se/f devoted victim: yet how was it
possible to avoid going! had I refused Mr. F— would
constantly have upbraided me with whatever ill consequence
might have resulted from the delay, and who could wish for
life on such terms! “No” thought I at the moment, “rather
let me brave death in the line of my duty, than have my
future days embittered by reproach, however unmerited.”
As we proceeded the waves gradually rose higher, and began
to break over us: one man was continually employed in
baling out the water, though his only utensil was a bamboo,
which hardly held a quart. Never shall I forget what I
felt on looking round in this situation; every wave rising
many feet higher than the boat, and threatening to over-
whelm us with instant destruction. I sat at first with my
face to the stern, but afterwards moved to the front, and
when I saw a wave coming, bowed my head to receive it.
We were a mile from the shore, and at least ¢wo from the
ship; was not this sufficient to appal the stoutest heart! yet
I can truly say that my mind was perfectly composed, con-
scious of the rectitude of my intentions,—I could look up
boldly to Heaven for protection. Mr. F— will tell you
how frequently I begged him not to entertain the least
doubt of our safety. ‘We have never” said I, “been con-
ducted thus far by the hand of Providence to perish; re-
member my dear parents; is not their happiness involved
in our safety? depend upon it we shall be preserved to be-
come the humble instruments of rendering their declining
years happy.”
While I was speaking a tremendous wave broke over

  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

phe SP ian ae ORT Se
Se : Sa -2e4

Sane
asa

oy
a a
Sa pa ya teeta

> a Sere,
Ss “7 ee ~ .
~ Sa ee 3 an tal tating!
a a eea Lee eae

etm Aon

Sa EL ah
Sea re 4 Beale eRe et die isi Shans apne
_ Bap 5 he Ds pire ees

ee idee ee tin Behe ocr hb Mey Canaan ant aan

pa ae Liman Pater eee —_ — a ——s
ne ae areas STG in ear

eT oe Lire

qi Cho
ye]
ety

re te AER eh Ree hae hee
pa ho Ma ey a he FAS Ce Ns Ng

  

Ree Slap ered

166 ORIGINAL, LETTERS FROM INDIA

us, and half filled the boat with water, on which, thinking it
would be presumptuous to proceed, we ordered the men to
make for the nearest land, but this the wind would not
permit, so we were obliged to keep on, and had reached
within a mile of the ship, when she began to spread her sails,
and in a few minutes got under weigh with a fair wind.—
Our people now wanted to quit the pursuit, as she gained
ground considerably, but we kept them in good humour by
promising more money, and putting a white handkerchief
on a stick, waved it in the air. After some time we had the
pleasure to see her tack about and lye to so in another half
hour we came up with her, having been three hours in the
condition I have described,—wet through and nearly fright-
ened to death, being every moment in the most imminent
danger. To describe my joy is impossible or my impatience
to quit the boat; without waiting for the chair to be
lowered I scrambled on board, and had I not been relieved
by a violent burst of tears, must have fainted.

Every one in the vessel blamed Mr. F— exceedingly
for running such a risk by his delay as the other passengers
who went on board in the morning, did not experi-
ence the slightest inconvenience. Mr. Moore luckily
came in the provision boat, which was six hours in getting
on board. This circumstance was the means of saving our
passage.

When we reached Ceylon the wind became contrary,
which together with a strong current, kept us upwards of
three weeks beating off the Island, before we could weather
Point de Galle. This will account to you for my letter
being scarcely legible-—I am at this moment writing on
my knees in bed, and if I had not been contented with this
method all the way, I could not have written at all. MySpee io iN Ua ee a Se how eet ie gel

esi

  

cae

RETA Te ar Pe aro ert etn esos ire rr ap eomorenneesichen eee Senta ones

pet a
a

  
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

ereeperon

eo tert

z Pye RE Re (a ae mere aay
5 Cassar. peenein Godley os
aie peg es
o ees iy
Pa a ee

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 167

eS

father well knows, a vessel has not a very agreeable motion,
when beating up in the winds eye.

4th April, 1780.

At length thank Heaven! we are at anchor in Madras
Roads, having been six weeks making a passage that with a
fair wind we could almost have performed in as many days.
Happily for me our society has been very different from the
last I was condemned to mix with on shipboard ;—of those
Mr. Moore, and Mr. O’Donnell are of the most importance
to us, our acquaintance with them commenced in Egypt,
and as they were indeed (though innocently) the cause of
all we suffered there, a very agreeable fellow-feeling has
naturally taken place between us. The latter is now
obliged to return to India to begin life again, (his losses on
the Desert having been followed by many unavoidable ex-
penses, as you will learn from my narrative), and seek a
competence under all the disadvantages that an injured
constitution added to a deep sense of disappointment and
injustice, subject him to.—You may be sure we have had
many conversations concerning the sad story of the Desert,
and the last moments of those who perished there.—A boat
1S Just come to take us on shore, so adieu for the present.
The Roads are very full, there are eight ships of the line

and above sixty other vessels, which form a magnificent
spectacle.

6th April, 1780.

I was exceedingly alarmed yesterday by the surf. We
got safe over it, but another boat upset just afterwards;
however, fortunately no lives were lost.—Sir Thomas Rum-
bold is hourly expected to embark, which is all that detainsSa ee

om a

Se ee ei

Te a a Oe ne eee
Crea os ena pes ee ais eto fee T ss > aero ee
mete nhs a * Gn its oar Sg ade pe OP SRR Ce Nada lean NO i %

Sees 5 hee : a

Hees Va Ee A oe pe er eee
gee ee ke ae Ee a tid ee a
Ape Mee ae ee

  

 

168 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

the fleet; so that perhaps I may not be able to write ten
lines more—

6p.m. As far asI can judge I feel pleased with Madras,
and gratified by the reception I have hitherto met with. [
shall of course write to you again from thence, being likely
to remain here a week or two; at present I must close my
letter: but as a matter of curiosity shall just mention the
astonishing celerity of the Indian tailors.— Yesterday even-
ing Mr. Fay, not being overstocked with clothes to appear
in, ordered a complete suit of black silk, with waistcoat
sleeves, which they brought home before nine this morning,
very neatly made though the whole must have been done by
candle-light.

I cannot conclude without saying, that although I feel
rather weak, my health is improving, and that the pain I
suffer from the accident which befel me at the Factory, is
not so violent as formerly—God grant I may soon be re-
lieved from apprehension on ¢hat score.

The Governor is gone on board.—Captain Richardson
of the Ganges under whose especial charge this packet
(containing the whole of my narrative from Mocha) will
be placed, as I had no safe opportunity of forwarding
any letter from Calicut or Cochin, has sent for it. The
perusal will cost you many tears but recollect that all is
over, and my future communications will I trust, be of a
very different complexion. May this reach you safely and
meet you all well and comfortable. Adieu—-God Almighty
preserve you prays your own,

E.F.Letter XIV

Madras, 13th April.
My DEAR FRIENDS,

Agreeably to my promise I take up the pen to give
you some account of this settlement, which has proved to
me a pleasant resting-place after the many hardships and
distresses it has lately been my lot to encounter: and where
in the kind attentions and agreeable society of some of my
own sex, I have found myself soothed and consoled for the
long want of that comfort; while my health has in general
reaped great advantages from the same source.

There is something uncommonly striking and grand in
this town, and its whole appearance charms you from
novelty, as well as beauty. Many of the houses and public
buildings are very extensive and elegant—they are covered
with a sort of shell-lime which takes a polish like marble,
and produces a wonderful effect—I could have fancied
myself transported into Italy, so magnificently are they
decorated, yet with the utmost taste. People here say that
the chunam as it is called, loses its properties when trans-

ported to Bengal, where the dampness of the atmosphere,
prevents it from receiving that exquisite polish \so much
admired by all who visit Madras. This may very likely be
the case.

The free exercise of all religions being allowed; the
different sects seem to vie with each other in ornamenting
their places of worship, which are in general well built, and

from their great variety, and novel forms afford much
169

Peis
Qo Sean

a RI Se
yi . G

aS
ere ar)

ao

ar a ne Soe ae
PE ee Gi th ah ee Srp eS ~
ees (opine. sent Ghat a ie oa
el pan S re

i

1

if
ep ‘i
Pa
cera ys
ie | ha)
Pep?
ae

a fe

Sti

al
cf

ttaa SLL ee

eee ae aaa eae oe

See At

  

170 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

gratification, particularly when viewed from the country, as
the beautiful groups of trees intermingle their tall forms
and majestic foliage, with the white chunam and rising
spires, communicating such harmony softness and elegance
to the scene, as to be altogether delightful; and rather re-
sembling the images that float on the imagination after read-
ing fairy tales, or the Arabian nights entertainment, than
any thing in real life; in fact Madras zs what I conceived
Grand Cairo to be, before I was so unlucky as to be unde-
ceived. This idea is still further heightened by the inter-
mixture of inhabitants; by seeing Asiatic splendour, com-
bined with European taste exhibited around you on every
side, under the forms of flowing drapery, stately palanquins,
elegant carriages, innumerable servants, and all the pomp
and circumstance of luxurious ease, and unbounded wealth.
It is true this glittering surface is here, and there tinged with
the sombre hue that more or less colours every condition of
life;—you behold Europeans, languishing under various
complaints which they call incidental to the climate, an
assertion it would ill become a stranger like myself to con-
trovert, but respecting which I am a little sceptical ; because
I see very plainly that the same mode of living, would
produce the same effects, even “in the hardy regions of the
North.” You may likewise perceive that human nature
has its faults and follies every where, and that black rogues
are to the full as common as white ones, but in my opinion
more impudent. On your arrival you are pestered with
Dubashees, and servants of all kinds who crouch to you as
if they were already your slaves, but who will cheat you in
every possible way ; though in fact there is no living without
one of the former to manage your affairs as a kind of
steward, and you may deem yourself very fortunate if youep at

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 171

procure one in this land of pillagers, who will let nobody
cheat you but himself. I wish these people would not vex
one by their tricks; for there is something in the mild
countenances and gentle manners of the Hindoos that in-
terests me exceedingly.

We are at present with Mr. and Mrs. Popham from
whom we have received every possible civility. He is a
brother lawyer, and a countryman of my husbands, and
she is a lively woman, her spirits have in some measure
restored mine to the standard from which those amiable
gentlemen, the Beys of Egypt, and Sudder Khan with his
coadjutors Ayres and my worthy ship mates, had so cruelly
chased them.

We have made several excursions in the neighbourhood
of Madras which is every where delightful, the whole
vicinity being ornamented with gentlemen’s houses built in
a shewy style of architecture, and covered with that beauti-
fulchunam. As they are almost surrounded by trees, when
you see one of these superb dwellings incompassed by a
grove, a distant view of Madras with the sea and shipping,
so disposed as to form a perfect landscape, it is beyond
comparison the most charming picture I ever beheld or
could have imagined. Wonder not at my enthusiasm; so
long shut up from every pleasing object, it is natural that
my feelings should be powerfully excited when such are
presented to me.

Nothing is more terrible at Madras than the surf which
as I hinted before, is not only alarming but dangerous.
They have here two kinds of boats to guard against this
great evil, but yet, notwithstanding every care, many lives
are lost. One of these conveyances called the Massulah
boat, is large, but remarkably light, and the planks of whichere ern p,
CS eee I Ae at eo

ee eras

Fre eR eee oa ee Ean
ola Tw . at Sc DEA Liner one

eo

pace RRS ELT AGS TR EPS ee Sy
poe Rout ea Weed orth alk oR Gee ae ant ee ar
ute ;

Tepenee ee Pade eS

  

172 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

it is constructed are actually sewed together by the fibres
of the Cocoa-nut. It is well calculated to stem the violence
of the surf but for greater safety it requires to be attended
by the other, called a Catamaran, which is merely composed
of bamboos fastened together and paddled by one man.
Two or three of these attend the Massulah boat, and in case
of its being overset usually pick up the drowning pas-
sengers. The dexterity with which they manage these
things is inconceivable;—but no dexterity can entirely
ward off the danger. The beach is remarkably fine.

The ladies here are very fashionable I assure you: I found
several novelties in dress since I quitted England, which a
good deal surprised me, as I had no idea that fashions
travelled so fast. It is customary to take the air in casriages
every evening in the environs of Madras: for excursions in
the country these are commonly used; but in town they
have Palanquins carried by four bearers, which I prefer.
They are often beautifully ornamented, and appear in char-
acter with the country, and with the languid air of those
who use them, which, though very different from any thing
T have been accustomed to admire in a woman as you well
know, yet is not unpleasing in a country the charms of
which are heightened by exhibiting a view of society entirely
new to me.

Mr. Popuam is one of the most eccentric beings I ever
met with.—Poor man he is a perpetual projector, a race
whose exertions have frequently benefitted society, but
seldom I believe been productive of much advantage to
themselves or their families. He is at present laying plans
for building what is called the black town, to a great extent,
and confidently expects to realize an immense fortune, but
others foresee such difficulties in the way, that they fear hePg teat

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 173

may be ruined by the undertaking. The pleasure he takes in
his visionary scheme should not be omitted in the account
as of some value, for it really seems to be an uncommon
source of enjoyment.”*

The Black town is that part of Madras, which was
formerly inhabited wholly by the natives, but of late many
Europeans have taken houses there, rents being consider-
ably lower than in Fort Sr. Grorcr, which is a very strong
Garrison, built by the English, and where since have been
constructed many fine houses, &c.—this is considered of
course a more fashionable place to reside in. Between the
Black town and the Fort, lies Choultry Plain which being
covered entirely with a whitish sand, reflects such a dazzling
light, and intolerable heat, as to render it a terrible annoy-
ance especially to strangers. Mr. Fay has been exceedingly
pressed to take up his abode here, and really many sub-
stantial inducements have been held out to him; but as his
views have been all directed to Calcutta, where knowledge
and talents are most likely to meet encouragement he cannot
be persuaded to remain. Besides, a capital objection is,
that no Supreme Court being as yet established he could
be only admitted to practise as an attorney, no advocates
being allowed in the Mayors Court: so that his rank as
a Barrister would avail nothing here: I most cordially
acquiesce in this determination. But I must suspend my

scribbling; Mr. P— is waiting to take me to Sr. THomas’s
Mount.

17th April, 1780.

I resume my pen, resolved to devote this day to my
dear friends, as it is likely to be the last I shall spend in
Madras. I found St. Tuomas’ Mount a very beautiful

a ok le Boa he eeSa er et reer teT Erk Te

Ce eT a ieee aE cL eet
BS em erence ean, ;
UE Pa ne a eee

* roe —
. fe a

ye
poe aa!

. oe ee
ar ne
eee
Leesa et Fes

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

174 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

place, it is a high hill of a conical form, crowned at the top
with white houses, and a Church built by the Portuguese in
memory of some St. THomMas, who they say, was murdered
on this spot by a Brahmin.—The road to this place 1s
delightful, being a complete avenue of the finest trees I
ever saw, whose intermingling branches are absolutely
impervious to the sun. Not far from hence I was shewn a
prodigiously fine Banian tree, the singular nature of which
is, that its branches bend down to the ground, take root
and thence spring out anew; thus forming innumerable
arches. I call it a vegetable Cathedral, and could not help
fancying that Banian groves were formerly appropriated to
idolatrous worship, since they are admirably calculated for
the celebration of any mysterious and solemn rites from
which the uninitiated are excluded; and may be properly
called “Temples not made with hands.” On the whole I
felt highly gratified by my little excursion, which was, I
believe, not more than seven miles from Madras.”

I must now assure you that I have actually seen several
of those things with my own eyes which we girls used to
think poor Captain $ took traveller’s liberty in relating,
such as dancing snakes, Jugglers swallowing swords &c.
The snakes were to me somewhat alarming, the other a
very disgusting spectacle; when they are become familiar I
may be amused with the one, since the various forms, the
prismatic colours, and graceful motions of the snakes may
give pleasure which the other exhibitions never can. When
you have seen a man thrust a sword down his throat and are
fully convinced that there is no deception, you feel that
you have beheld a wonder, and there the gratification ends,
for the sight is unnatural and disgusting. With some
other tricks of the Juggler, I was however much pleased;ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 175

his power of balancing was astonishing, and he had a
method of throwing four brass balls up and catching them
with such amazing rapidity, that they perpetually encircled
his head, forming a kind of hat around it; he likewise
threaded small beads with his tongue, and performed a
number of very curious slights of hand. Dancing. girls
are a constant source of amusement here, but I was much
disappointed in them, they wrap such a quantity of muslin
round them by way of petticoat, that they almost appear to
have hoops;—and their motions are so slow, formal and
little varied, that you see the whole dance as it were at once ;
they are very inferior to those of the same profession at
Grand Cairo though I never saw any there but in the streets,
however their dancing is certainly less indecent, at least so
far as I could witness it.

There seems to be a strange inconsistency in the char-
acter of the natives; they appear the most pusillanimous
creatures in existence, except those employed on the water,
whose activity and exertions are inconceivable. They will
encounter every danger for the sake of reward, with all
the eagerness of avarice, and all the heroism of courage ;
so that if you have occasion to send off a note to a ship, no
matter how high the surf may run, you will always find
some one ready to convey it for you, and generally without
being damaged, as their turbans are curiously folded with
waxed cloth for that purpose; so off they skip to their
Catamarans,—for the prospect of gain renders them as
brisk as the most lively Europeans.

The Hindoos have generally their heads shaved but they
preserve a single lock and a pair of small whiskers with
the greatest care. Their manner of writing is curious;
they write with iron needles, on palm-leaves which areli a a eect eae et ee Tes
rer CT OTe EES ==) CE eae ee Oa rere ee:

  

aa cL eo

HTS SE ee “ ee

CpG AO en Oe mis ee OF -_
A ty

    
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
  
 
 

176 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

afterwards strung together and form books. Boys are
taught to write on the sand; a very good plan as it saves
materials and a number can be instructed at the same time.
For teaching arithmetic, great numbers of pebbles are used ;
so that every part of the apparatus is cheap.

The natives of India are immoderately fond of an in-
toxicating liquor called Toddy which is the unfermented
juice of the Cocoa-nut or Palmyra tree 3—-sugar and water
is also a favourite beverage. Butter is very scarce and not
good; what they call Ghee is butter boiled or clarified, in
order to preserve it, and is very useful for many purposes,
such as frying &c. On the whole one may live very well
at Madras,—to me it appears a land of luxury as you may
suppose, when you recollect, how I had been accustomed
to fare. We may think ourselves very well off in escaping
from the paws of that fell tyger Hyder Ally as we did, for
I am assured that the threat of sending us up the country
to be fed on dry rice, was not likely to be a vain one; it
is thought that several of our countrymen are at this very
time suffering in that way: if so, I heartily wish that the
War he has provoked, may go forward ’till those unhappy
beings are released and the usurping tyrant is effectually
humbled.

Mr. O’DowneE tt has just called and desired me to pre-
pare for an early summons to-morrow. I have ever found
him friendly and attentive and must always deem myself
highly obliged to him, as he certainly had but too much
occasion to feel hurt by the behaviour of Mr. Fay, whose
temper, yeu know, is not the most placid in the world. He
quarrelled with both him and Mr. Moore during the pas-
sage about the meres¢ trifles (wherein too he was palpably
in the wrong) and challenged them both: Judge what ISPT tk So eet oti tate accent Pore et ree ee AT Lens, Coren renin iain erties ee”

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 177

must have suffered during these altercations, vainly en-
deavouring to conciliate, and in agonies lest things should
proceed to extremities.—On our arrival here, I prevailed on
Mr. Popuam to act as a mediator between the parties;
who at length, though with great difficulty, convinced Mr.
}F— that he had been to blame, and induced him to make a
proper apology to both gentlemen: thus ended the affair
but I have reason to think, that had I not been with him,
he would not have been invited to proceed farther on the
ship; nor am I free from apprehension at present, yet Mr.
O’D— has proved himself so true a friend and has so
materially served my husband, that I trust our short trip
from hence to Calcutta, will prove a pleasant one. I un-
derstand that several additional passengers are to join us,
which may operate as a check on fiery spirits.

18th April.

Mr. & Mrs. P— have completed their hospitable kind-
ness by insisting that we should partake of an early dinner
(at one o’clock) after which we immediately proceed on
board; and heartily rejoiced shall I be, when once over
the terrific surf. I leave Madras with some regret having
met with much civility and even sympathy here. I must
now bid you adieu; in my next I hope to announce that
my long pilgrimage is ended. I likewise shall expect to
find letters from you, waiting my arrival at Calcutta. My
anxiety at times arises to impatience, lest any evil should
have befallen you, during the long period in which all a
communication has been suspended between us: my heart
however yet retains its power of conversing with you.
Whenever I see any thing new or entertaining I directly
imagine how you would have looked, and what you wouldBe RON cd Ae a

IEE Ae Pree 4 fhe
ho Seca Ve aes

a C4 fase

ee ne ay ee
ac are aay ’

ee

Se ry tee
ieee ae eee
rece rene “i

PSP acta

et
CPP

= eee ete ot et ee
aren yer ner

eee
al

    
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

178 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

have said on the occasion; and thus cheat myself into a
pleasing dream of social intercourse with those most dear
to me.

Our stay at Madras has been the means of procuring us
some respectable recommendations to persons in Calcutta;
for we have made several desirable connections here. Hope
again smiles on us and IJ endeavour to cherish her sugges-
tions; for it is as much my duty as my énferest to keep up
my spirits, since in my present state of health, without
them, I must wholly sink; and now more than ever I feel
the necessity of using exertion.

The hot winds prevail here at present, which renders the
weather peculiarly oppressive, but a few hours will change
the scene. Adieu: remember me in your prayers, my be-
loved parents, my dear sisters, and rest assured of the un-

alterable affection of your own
Eviza.Lee Rewe i
Ped Gh kl a

 

Letter XV

Calcutta, 22nd May.
My Dear Frienps,

I may now indeed call for your congratulations since
after an eventful period of twelve months and eighteen
days, I have at length reached the place for which I have
so long sighed, to which I have looked with innumerable
hopes and fears, and where I have long rested my most
rational expectations of future prosperity and comfort. I
must now in order to keep up the connection of my story
return to Madras, and from thence conduct you here
regularly.

Mr. F— and Mr. Popuam both assured me that a
massulah boat was engaged, but on arriving at the beach
none could be had; so there being no remedy, I went off
in a common cargo boat which had no accommodations
whatever for passengers, and where my only seat was one
of the cross beams. How I saved myself from falling
Heaven knows, Mr. F— was under the necessity of exert-
ing his whole strength to keep me up, so he suffered a
little for his negligence. It was what is called a black
surf and deemed very dangerous; there were some moments
when I really thought we were nearly gone; for how could
I in my weak state have buffetted the waves had the boat
overset? When once on board our voyage passed comfort-
ably enough; our society was pleasant; indeed Mr.
O’DonnELt is ever a host to us in kindness; Mr. Moore

our supercargo was however more strict in his enforcement
179

a
ro, Chee es ‘

- es Se ae ae s iid) Ere iiayens om a iS
os aa Gaow Pee eee oes i Pere eee oea a. é \

ms Pree “aaa ay os moet aan! Ree Tote at kat! oe

iy on SActke ve : ton i eo eo - :
é ast Eee As Or pp eree. oye 8 : en re
ae - = at a ad a a Ta :

  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

rer ie ames oy .
~

a a
eS ne
SeteMarto re er on Gn
SEO as
5 3
“Peale sa SGD ge Buia Ea ay Ln
ph i go a ar ed Ot ere Bar
P04 (Re

  

gO an ncn at

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

180 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

of rules than was agreeable to most of us; we were kept
more orderly than so many children at school; for if we
were in the midst of a rubber at whist, he would make us
give over at nine precisely, and we were obliged to keep
our score ’till the following evening. But this was of little
moment, for as we advanced towards the place of our
destination, we were too much interested to think of any
thing else. We had a distant view of the pagodas of Jag-
gernauth,—three large pyramidical buildings very famous
temples among the Hindoos, who there worship the images
of Jaggernauth and keep a splendid establishment of the
Priesthood attendant on the Idols in the manner of the
ancient heathens. I am credibly assured that at stated
intervals the principal figure is taken out in an enormous car,
with a great number of wheels beneath which his votaries
prostrate themselves with the most undaunted resolution;
firmly persuaded that by thus sacrificing their lives, they
shall pass immediately after death into a state of everlasting
felicity. Well may we say that, “life and immortality were
brought to light by the Gospel” since in regions where its
sacred influence is unknown or unattended to, we see such
gross acts of folly and superstition as these, sanctioned by
authority: may it please the Almighty disposer of events
to hasten the period of their emancipation, that all mankind
may hail each other as brothers, and we may be brought
together as ‘‘one fold, under one shepherd.”

Calcutta, you know is on the Hoogly, a branch of the
Ganges, and as you enter Garden-reach which extends
about nine miles below the town, the most interesting views
that can possibly be imagined greet the eye. The banks
of the river are as one may say absolutely studded with
elegant mansions, called here as at Madras, garden-houses.

a ac a aed ae
ia i ae abet ~ s

Fa eee
‘<a spot Chet = SRT A re

 

4 Laceta

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 181

These houses are surrounded by groves and lawns, which
descend to the waters edge, and present a constant suc-
cession of whatever can delight the eye, or bespeak wealth
and elegance in the owners. The noble appearance of the
river also, which is much wider than the Thames at London
bridge, together with the amazing variety of vessels con-
tinually passing on its surface, add to the beauty of the
scene. Some of these are so whimsically constructed as
to charm by their novelty. I was much pleased with the
snake boat in particular. Budgerows somewhat resembling
our city barges, are very common,—many of these are
spacious enough to accommodate a large family. Besides
these the different kinds of pleasure boats intermixed with
mercantile vessels, and ships of war, render the whole a
magnificent and beautiful moving picture ; at once exhilarat-
ing the heart, and charming the senses: for every object
of sight is viewed through a medium that heightens its
attraction in this brilliant climate.

The town of Calcutta reaches along the eastern bank of
the Hoogly; as you come up past Fort William and the
Esplanade it has a beautiful appearance. Esplanade-row,
as it is called, which fronts the Fort, seems to be composed
of palaces; the whole range, except what is taken up by
the Government and Council houses, is occupied by the
principal gentlemen in the settlement—no person being
allowed to reside in Fort William, but such as are attached
to the Army, gives it greatly the advantage over Fort Sr.
GerorGE, which is so incumbered with buildings of one kind
or other, that it has more the look of a town than of a
military Garrison. Our Fort is also so well kept and every
thing in such excellent order, that it is quite a curiosity to
see it—all the slopes, banks, and ramparts, are covered with

> :
7
5 7a - °
a. Ss ig ane 7 os ry
Be Nea kata nO oe sos

=
a ie

as

  
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   

meee aie
Ivers Se

ig ea Pn Nee ae
SOG Cain alee ene remarer Ce CS
a a eeOs a ie Bee
Paterna UTS

iA RL
pee Ade PT ei Hee ei atds
Ded oO)

ey

ear a a

eee
Or al sec aeriree .

Sa ee aca oma Ee

=
a

PIR the =

ee ees

a a a

  

182 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

the richest verdure, which completes the enchantment of
the scene. Indeed the general aspect of the country is
astonishing; notwithstanding the extreme heat (the ther-
mometer seldom standing below ninety in the afternoon) I
never saw a more vivid green than adorns the surrounding
fields—not that parched miserable look our lands have
during the summer heats;—large fissures opening in the
earth, as if all vegetation were suspended; in fact the
copious dews which fall at night, restore moisture to the
ground, and cause a short thick grass to spring up, which
makes the finest food imaginable for the cattle. Bengal
mutton, always good, is at this period excellent—I must
not forget to tell you that there is a very good race ground
at a short distance from Calcutta, which is a place of fash-
ionable resort, for morning and evening airings.

Through Mr. O’Donnell’s kindness we were introduced
to a very respectable Portuguese family who received us
with the greatest civility, inviting us to take up our abode
with them until we could provide ourselves with a house—
Mr. Da C— was a widower, but his late wife’s sisters, who
resided with him, were born at Chandernagore, (a French
settlement between twenty and thirty miles higher up the
river;) but from long disuse they had lost the habit of
speaking their native language, though they understood it
perfectly; so I was forced to make out their Portuguese in
the best manner I could, constantly answering in French.
In this way we frequently conversed, and I gained much
information respecting the customs of the place—the price
of provisions, and many other useful matters.

Fortunately, throughout all our difficulties we had pre-
served our letters of introduction, by keeping them always
concealed about us, together with Mr. F—’s admissioneA a

 

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
    

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 183

 

to the Bar and other credentials, which were essentially
necessary to his establishment here: so that my husband
became immediately known to Sir Robert Chambers, who
behaved to him with the utmost attention; and whose lady
after hearing a little of my melancholy story, and finding
I was too much indisposed to admit of my paying my
respects to her, had the goodness to wave all ceremony,
and accompanied by her husband, to visit me at the house
of the Portuguese merchant, which was a condescension
that I certainly had no right to expect. She is the most
beautiful woman I ever beheld,—in the bloom of youth;
and there is an agreeable frankness in her manners, that
enhances her loveliness, and renders her truly fascinating.
Her kindness towards me daily increases; and she seems
never weary of listening to my sad story. ‘She loves me
for the dangers I have passed, and I love her that she does
pity them.” *
29th May.
J have delivered my letter of introduction to Mrs. Hast-
Incs, on whom I should have waited long ago, had the state
of my health admitted of the exertion. She resides at
Belvidere-house about, I believe, five miles from Calcutta,
which is a great distance at this season and for an invalid.
The lady was fortunately at home and had three of her
most intimate friends with her on a visit, one of them, Mrs.
Morte, a most charming woman. Mrs. H— herself pit

Is_easy to perceive at at the first glance, is tatsupesior to the

generality of her sex; though her appearance is rather
eccentric, owing to the circumstance of her beautiful auburn
hair being disposed in ringlets, throwing an air of elegant,
nay almost intantine simplicity over the countenance, most

admirably adapted to heighten the effect intended to berr ey at ee
peas pare ay m

Ea er ee aed
ep bem 1S pene Ott gas bee eT

al en

RP aa C ee a
* ae Lane eal Oa eee tt Be

(aeoe

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

184 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

produced. Her whole dress too, though studiously be-
coming being at variance with our present modes which are
certainly not so, perhaps for that reason, she has chosen to
depart from them—as a foreigner you know, she may be
excused for not strictly conforming to our fashions; besides
her rank in the settlement sets her above the necessity of
studying any thing but the whim of the moment. It is
easy to perceive how fully sensible she is of her own conse-
quence. She is indeed raised to a “giddy height” and
expects to be treated with the most profound respect and
deference. She received me civilly and insisted on my
staying dinner, which I had no inclination to refuse, but she
seemed not to evince much:sympathy when [ slightly
touched on the misfortunes which had befallen me; nay
she even hinted that I had brought them on myself, by
imprudently venturing on such an expedition out of mere
curiosity. Alas! Mrs. H— could not know what you
are well acquainted with, that I undertook the journey with
a view of preserving my husband from destruction, for had
I not accompanied him, and in many instances restrained
his extravagance and dissipated habits, he would never,
never, I am convinced, have reached Bengal, but have
fallen a wretched sacrifice to them on the way, or perhaps
through the violence of his temper been involved in some
dispute, which he was too ready to provoke—but to return
I could not help feeling vexed at Mrs. H—s observation,
to say the best of it, it was unfeeling;—but I excuse her.
Those basking in the lap of prosperity can little appreciate
the sufferings or make allowance for the errors of the un-
fortunate; whom they regard as almost beings of another
order.”®

You will expect me to say something of the house, whichORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 185

is a perfect 42jov; most superbly fitted up with all that un-
bounded affluence can display; but still deficient in that
simple elegance which the wealthy so seldom attain, from
the circumstance of not being obliged to search for effect
without much cost, which those but moderately rich, find
to be indispensable. The gardens are said to be very taste-
fully laid out, but how far this report is accurate I had no
opportunity of judging; the windows being all as it were
hermetically closed; sashes, blinds, and every opening,
except where tatties were placed to exclude the hot wind.
This surprized me very much: but I understand no method
is so effectual for that purpose. I was not permitted to
take my departure till the evening, when the fair lady
of the mansion, dismissed me with many general pro-
fessions of kindness, of which I knew how to estimate the
value.

Next morning we received an invitation to the bal] given
annually on the King’s birthday. This however I was
under the necessity of declining on the plea of ill health
and Mr. F— could hardly ever be persuaded to attend
such formal assemblies.

When my husband waited on Sir Elijah Impey, the
Chief Justice, to shew his credentials, he met with a most
flattering reception. It so happened that he was called to
the Bar from Lincoln’s Inn himself, and seemed quite at
home while perusing the papers, being acquainted with
the hand-writing of the officers who prepared them; and
perhaps that circumstance might render him more partial.
On Mr. Fay’s expressing some apprehensions lest his hav-
ing come out without leave of the E. I. Company might
throw obstacles in the way of his admission to the Bar here,
Sir Elijah indignantly exclaimed “No Sir, had you dropped

   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

pope ees ee cee
Aine eer “s
Fei et pees

SaaS

— oe aa Scape ee apn ey Palme wae

cline gudenmsacoae nares he ALCL AOS cae, aa pier Oba iS Ng ue Se ag
- 2 hang eee Cl. tah aen ae Se eee! 2 a Sao

nar aecgeeneene aa EE pe ES

re eel rt)ES ee eet eer hy eee

a oe ee ero eer ee er renee
rama ie ra seek sca Pe aoe

Ree .

  

Pond gee SOE a

as As aan
Ng Be BAe

186 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

from the clouds with such documents, we would admit you.
The Supreme Court is independent and will never endure to
be dictated to, by any body of men whose claims are not
enforced by superior authority. It 1s nothing to us whether
you had or had not permission from the Court of Directors,
to proceed to this settlement; you come to us as an authen-
ticated English Barrister, and as such, we shall on the first
day of the next Term, admit you to owr Bar.’ Sir E—
also offered to introduce him to Mr. Hyde which Mr. F—
thankfully accepted. Do you not admire the high tone in
which Sir E— delivers his sentiments? There exists, it
seems, a strong jealousy between the Government and the
Supreme Court, lest either should encroach on the preroga-
tives of the other. The latter not long since committed Mr.
Naylor the Company’s Attorney for some breach of privi-
lege, who being in a weak state of health at the time, died
in confinement—this has increased the difference.’ I
merely mention this en passant, for it regards not us, let
them quarrel, or agree; so the business of the Court be not
impeded we cannot suffer. Mr. F— is already retained in
several causes. His whole mind will now, I trust, be
occupied with his profession, and as his abilities have never
been questioned, I flatter myself that he has every reason to
look forward to ultimate success.

20th July.

Hyder Ally has at length thrown off the mask, and com-
menced hostilities in good earnest. How providential was
our liberation at that critical juncture! and my gratitude
to Heaven was lately called forth in another instance—I
recently conversed with a gentleman who crossed the Great
Desert by way of Aleppo.—He assures me that besides theee ee hem ee ES |
.

or

Go é ;
Sal Sy
' ‘
er

Cae hice sipgeenetyaes many now
Soo cy ens el ahead ete eee
Re ata es rs
eee mae be ear

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
  
 
 

ro

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 187

danger from the Arabs, there is so much more from other
causes than in going over that to Suez, that he is quite
confident, J never could have survived, the journey; “‘or
he added any European woman”—therefore on the whole
we seem to have experienced the lesser evil, though the
alternative of falling into the hands of the enemy was
horrible! Iam concerned to say that dreadful reports are in
circulation respecting the excesses committed by Hyder’s
troops in the Carnatic, but the particulars are too shocking
to be repeated.

You have no idea how busy I am. Lady Chambers has
been kind enough to lend me some of her dresses, for mine
to be made by—I have commenced house-keeping, and am
arranging my establishment, which is no little trouble in a
country where the servants will not do a single thing, but
that for which you expressly engage them nor even that
willingly. I just now asked a man to place a small table
near me; he began to bawl as loud as he could for the
bearers to come and help him. ‘Why dont you do it
yourself” said I? rising as I spoke to assist. Oh I no
English. I Bengal man. I no estrong like English; one,
two, three Bengal men cannot do like one Englishman.—
Adieu remember you must write me long letters. you see
even the heat has not reduced mine to a single sheet. I trust
that I shall never be found incapable of addressing you.
Mr. F— unites with me in kind remembrances.

I am ever most affectionately your’s

&c. &e.bre 349 gee ee
wk Hn
POR ag fe ea

ry ae
F a a
ean
a 0

ee oer at eae
Cece panera Dk see = oo
peat a linea ; aN

Se eee ee ee tere eee rene Let
: haat és A ‘ ih Ee ee mite ag sets

    
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  

Letter XVI

Calcutta, 29th August.
My Dear FRIenps,

Ten thousand thanks for the precious packet of letters
I yesterday received: you can form no idea of the eager-
ness with which I flew from my dressing room; and Mr.
Fay from his study—at the joyful sound of “letters from
England.” But my very eagerness wrought for a while
its own disappointment; for when I laid my hands on the
prize, I fell into a kind of hysteric, and it was some time
before I could break the seals, and yet would not suffer
Mr. F— to deprive me of the gratification for which I had
so long panted—over such treasures who would not be a
miser—I would not permit a single scrap to escape me till
I had devoured the whole. Those only know what that
impatient hunger of the heart is after information, and the
intercourse of affection, who have been debarred as long
as I had been from objects so dear.

I rejoice to find that the Chevalier de St. Lubin per-
formed his promise and that you now are in possession of
every event that occurred to us till our arrival at Mocha.
To know that we had passed the desert, that object of my
dear mother’s dread and apprehension, must have set her
mind comparatively at ease; Alas! little did she suppose,

| how far more horrible were the miseries that we had still
to undergo! thank Heaven, they are past.—I will quit the

subject which agitates me too much.
| 188

Deon gepa RN i ek Fe
ie mu eee)

Sr

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
   
  
 

REIT A?
ene ae
rae

rc ee dal 0 Shee je

pi TD heat raids in ae
Spree eS s

aay < ee RSS o
Pa tla ea

a ae or ae oe a cy en ee

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 189

I am happy to say that our house is a very comfortable
one, but we are surrounded by a set of thieves. In Eng-
land, if servants are dishonest we punish them, or turn them
away in disgrace, and their fate proves, it may be hoped,
a warning to others; but these wretches have no sense of
shame. I will give you an instance or two of their conduct,
that you may perceive how enviably I am situated. My
Khansaman (or house steward) brought in a charge of a
gallon of milk and thirteen eggs, for making scarcely a pint
and half of custard; this was so barefaced a cheat, that I
refused to allow it, on which he gave me warning. I sent
for another, and, after I had hired him, “now said I, take
notice friend, I have enquired into the market price of every
article that enters my house and will submit to no imposi-
tion; you must therefore agree to deliver in a just account
to me every morning’—what reply do you think he made?
why he demanded double wages; you may be sure I dis-
missed him, and have since forgiven the first but not till
he had salaamed to my foot, that is placed his right hand
under my foot,—this is the most abject token of submis-
sion (alas! how much better should I like a little common
honesty.) I know him to be a rogue, and so are they all,
but as he understands me now, he will perhaps be induced
to use rather more moderation in his attempts to defraud.
—At first he used to charge me with twelve ounces of but-
ter a day, for each person; now he grants that the consump-
tion is only four ounces. As if these people were aware
that I am writing about them, they have very obligingly
furnished me with another anecdote. It seems my com-
prodore (or market man) is gone away; he says poor
servants have no profit by staying with me, at other gentle-
men’s houses he always made a rupee a day at least! besidesBe re a ec aE et a

suet be eet erty re
eo beste rite Wala e r qa?

ae aa

Rect

eee oe ea “a

a ay
A eae
4 a! ’
uty.

7% i cs

eee

a

ie toe

Tae LAS NE PEER!

   

190 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

   
  
   
   
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    
  
 
 
 

his wages; but here if he only charges an anna or two
more, it is sure to be taken off—So you see what a terrible
creature I am! I dare say you never gave me credit for
being so close—I find I was imposed on, in taking a
comprodore at all; the Khansaman ought to do that busi-
ness. Judge whether J have not sufficient employment
among these harpies? feeling as I do the necessity of a
reasonable economy. It is astonishing, and would be amus-
ing if one did not suffer by it, to see the various arts they
will practice to keep a few annas in their hands, for though
the lawful interest of money is but 12 per Cent (enough
you will say), yet twenty four is given by the shop-
keepers, who will lend or borrow the smallest sums for a
single day, and ascertain the precise interest to the greatest
exactitude, having the advantage of cowrees, 5,120 of
which go to make one rupee. The foolish custom which
subsists here of keeping Banians, gives rise to a thousand
deceptions, as no one pays or receives money but through
the medium of these people who have their profit on every
thing that comes into the house.

In order to give you an idea of my household expenses
and the price of living here, I must inform you that, our
house costs only 200 rupees per month, because it 1s not
in a part of the town much esteemed; otherwise we must
pay 3 or 400 rupees; we are now seeking for a better
situation. We were very frequently told in England you
know, that the heat in Bengal destroyed the appetite, I
must own that I never yet saw any proof of that; on the
contrary I cannot help thinking that I never saw an equal
quantity of victuals consumed.” We dine too at two
o’clock, in the very heat of the day. At this moment Mr.
F— is looking out with an hawk’s eye, for his dinner; andORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA IQI

though still much of an invalid, I have no doubt of being
able to pick a bit myself. I will give you our bill of fare,
and the general prices of things. A soup, a roast fowl, curry
and rice, a mutton pie, a fore quarter of lamb, a rice pud-
ding, tarts, very good cheese, fresh churned butter, fine
bread, excellent Madeira (that is expensive but eatables are
very cheap, )—a whole sheep costs but two rupees: a lamb
one rupee, six good fowls or ducks ditto—twelve pigeons
ditto—twelve pounds of bread ditto—two pounds butter
ditto; and a joint of veal ditto—good cheese two months
ago sold at the enormous price of three or four rupees per
pound, but now you may buy it for one and a half—Eng-
lish claret sells at this time for sixty rupees a dozen.
There’s a price for you! I need not say that much of it
will not be seen at our table: now and then we are forced to
produce it, but very seldom. I assure you much caution is
requisite to avoid running deeply in debt—the facility of
obtaining credit is beyond what I could have imagined; the
Europe shop keepers are always ready to send in goods; and
the Banians are so anxious to get into employment, that
they out bid each other. One Says “master better take me,
I will advance five thousand rupees ’—another offers seven,
and perhaps a third ten thousand: a Company’s servant
particularly will always find numbers ready to support his
extravagance. It is not uncommon to see writers within
a few months after their arrivals dashing away on the
course four in hand: allowing for the inconsiderateness of
youth, is it surprising if many become deeply embarrassed?
—Several have been pointed out to me, who in the course
of two or three years, have involved themselves almost
beyond hope of redemption. The interest of money here
being twelve per Cent, and the Banian taking care to secure

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
  
 
 

4 imo - y 4 7
aT PT eee EN Te I Bre R amet ener we Ns soe sienSeer er in oe eo ert
eer fe ae ngs ne : 4 a C oom

ret

eevee

ae
zebra Oh "
=e

   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 

192 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 

bonds for whatever he advances, making up the account
yearly and adding the sum due for interest, his thoughtless
master, (as he calls him, but in fact his slave) soon finds
his debt doubled, and dares not complain unless he has the
means of release which alas! are denied him.

I should have told you before that Mr. F— was admitted
an advocate in the Supreme Court, on the 16th June,—
has been engaged in several causes, wherein he acquitted
himself to general satisfaction and is at present as busy
as can be desired. Every one seems willing to encourage
him and if he continue but his own friend, all will, I feel
persuaded, go well with us, and we shall collect our share
of gold mohurs, as well as our neighbours.—I like to see
the briefs come in well enough. The fees are much higher
here than in England, so you will say “they ought” and
I perfectly agree with you.

Sir R. Chambers met with an accident some weeks ago
(by jumping out of a carriage when the horses were restive )
which confined him to his house a long while but he is now
recovering; I was a good deal vexed both on his own
account poor man, and because Mr. F— was deprived of
his friendly aid. I have seen little of my kind patroness
since, for she goes scarce any where without her husband—
we were to dine with them the very day the circumstance
happened. They are gone up the country and will not
return for some months.

31 August.

I have received another packet and rejoice to hear you
are all going on so well. They talk of a frigate being soon
to sail, in which case I shall close and dispatch this.—hy 2 Oe
ee y Ue ag oe eo

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 193

As I propose sending you a regular supply of Calcutta
Gazettes,” there can be no necessity to fill my letters with
political information. I trust that in a short time Hyder
will be effectually humbled.

Mr. Hare has visited us several times: and is now quite
complaisant to Mr. Fay. This is the way of the world you
know, and of course to be expected from such a slave to
outward circumstance, such a mere “summer friend” as
this man ever evinced himself.—By his account the hard-
ships they underwent would very soon have destroyed so
poor a creature as I was at that time: so that the difficulties
we fell into, though at the moment of suffering so deplored,
proved eventually our safe guard in more respects than one.
Had we not touched at Calicut, I am fully persuaded we
should have been shipwrecked, and had not my illness
furnished a pretext for detaining us there after the rest, I
should have died among those cruel people in the most
shocking way imaginable, since they were for a long while
absolutely destitute of every necessary. What short-sighted
beings we are! how futile, how defective our best formed
calculations! I have sometimes pleased myself (I hope
not improperly) with the idea, that the power of discern-
ing clearly the beneficent designs of providence during our
earthly pilgrimage, and of perceiving that in a thousand
instances like these, a rough and stony path has led to
safety and ultimate happiness, may be intended to form
part of our enjoyment in a future state, wherein we are
taught that to contemplate the Supreme Being in his per-
fections will constitute the height of bliss—Let me have
your sentiments on the subject; its discussion can do neither
of us harm and may lead to improvement.Se eee eee
ee "8 ee bye — a i goat saa e

a

—
~

pane eee

% Po

rept ty ret “

ee

i Ee
a eS
Cage,
: is
5

0

se

= oon
rd j ‘

194 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Sth September.

I have nothing particular to add—my health continues

very good considering all things. This is a dull time:

vacations are always so to professional people. God bless

you and grant us a happy meeting—our prospects are

good; nothing but the grossest misconduct can prevent our
success. Adieu

Yours most affectionately

E. F.Letter XVII

Calcutta, 27th September.
My Dear FRIEnpDs,

The bad news I hinted at some time ago is already
avenged; and a much more serious affair has happened
since, but for the present I must relate what has occupied
a great deal of attention for some days past: no less than a
duel between the Governor General and the first in Council,
Mr. Francis, there were two shots fired, and the Governor’s
second fire took place; he immediately ran up to his an-
tagonist and expressed his sorrow for what had happened,
which I dare say was sincere, for he is said to be a very
amiable man. Happily the ball was soon extracted; and
if he escape fever, there is no doubt of his speedy recovery.
What gave occasion to the quarrel is said to have been an
offensive Minute entered on the Council books by Mr.
Francis, which he refused to rescind; but being unac-
quainted with the particulars, I have as little right as in-
clination to make any comments on the subject—It always
vexes me to hear of such things. What a shocking custom
is that of duelling! yet there are times when men may be
so situated that, as the world goes, one knows not how they
could act otherwise; much may be effected by the judicious
interference of friends, but those qualified for the task are
rarely to be met with. Mr. Francis is highly respected
here, and being now at the head of what is called the Oppo-
sition party, his death would be severely felt by many who
affect great indifference about the event.*°
195

TEP Le Le eek
> , hePeper a Gg eh ak
rd EG da hay woe Son & ae oe Ag ek
AICO Ea INE cet Be aa

(POE OR Ok Oe Un ata

Binns
ia

  
  
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
   

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Since I wrote last we have had a good deal of trouble
with our Mohametan servants, on account of an old cus-
tom; not one of them would touch a plate on which pork
had been laid—so that whenever we had any at table our
plates remained, till the cook or his mate came up to change
them. This being represented as a religious prejedice, | felt
it right to give Way, however ridiculous it might appear,
in fact it was an ‘nconvenience we felt in common with the
whole settlement, except the gentlemen of the Army who
had long before emancipated themselves from any such
restraint; finding this to be really the case the whole of the
European inhabitants agreed to insist upon their servants
doing the same as those of the officers at the Fort, or quit-
ting their places. They chose the latter alternative, and as

their prejudices run very high in all religious matters, We

were in doubt whether they would not prefer suffering the
rather, than touch the very vessels which
d food,—but behold in about four

days they came back again requesting to be reinstated; and
acknowledging that the only penalty incurred by touch-
ing the plates was the necessity of bathing afterwards: from
this you may judge of their excessive idleness; however all
now goes on well and we hear no more of their objection—

The serious affair at which I hinted in the beginning of
this letter, was the cutting off Col. Baillie’s detachment
with dreadful slaughter. I trust we shall soon have ample
revenge, for that fne old veteran Sir Eyre Coote is about
to take the field and his very name will strike those undis-
ciplined hordes with terror—Oh how I feel interested in

the event! *

Nothing surely can be more disagreeable than the
weather here at present, it is very hot with scarcely a

196

erm on eee ae
Sees er aa

“ een re eee end ern *
rane Pen Fae a er aaa
o eo ne: oh ies Specs PEON ad Brie oe
Sa eee one mn Be Leer et

greatest extremity
contained this abhorre

(acer:

 
 

PRSRS SSeS aeORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 107

breath of air stirring; and such swarms of insects buzzing
about, but beyond all the bug fly is disgusting—one of
them will scent a room; they are in form like a ladybird
but their smell is a thousand times more offensive than that
of our bugs. A good breeze would disperse them all, but
that we must not expect till the monsoon changes, that is,
about the middle of next month.

I never told you that one of the Captains who had charge
of us at Calicut made his escape some months ago, and came
to ask our assistance till he could get employment up the
country. Mr. F— gave him a lower room, and he remained
with us several weeks: his name is West. This was the
man from whom we collected intelligence of the plots laid
against us there, and which had nearly proved successful.
West is a stout fellow accustomed in his early days to
labour, and seasoned to the climate;—he is gone up to
Patna, in charge of some boats and is to remain there.
Ayres used to treat him very ill at times, and he says at-
tempted more than once to assassinate him, because he re-
fused to concur with a party that Ayres headed, consisting
of six or eight abandoned wretches whose intention it was
to cut off several of the more opulent natives secretly, and
possess themselves of their effects; while they should con-
trive to fix the guilt of the transaction on some persons who
were obnoxious to them. West threatened to reveal the
whole plot, on which they pretended to abandon it, but he
soon found their object was to rid themselves of him ; and
he effected his escape in a canoe (at the utmost risk of per-
ishing in the attempt) to Cochin, from whence he easily
got a passage to Bengal. What a horrible fellow is that
Ayres: surely he will meet his deserts: should the English
take him he will be shot instantly as a deserter.

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
  
   
 

AERtet a

—

poo on

Foe eras

a ae ant erate Te tee as
TEE ges ay ME eee maser ee mec eee tt) wee ore C

IS
- ¢ Key Pagers ‘

Roa ee

PC SSeS Oy i aah at aN Oe ee A
A OS Ripe hit ok GL sea A had a a

Dore Ante gins

PERE VES ROP pat

  

198 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

We have found out a nephew of Isaac’s named Daniel,
he is a man of no great consequence here, either in point of
situation or circumstances though not absolutely poor:—
we asked him to dinner, and endeavoured by every means
in our power to evince the grateful sense we entertain of
his worthy uncle’s kindness and beneficence.

3rd November.
Since my last date I have the pleasure to acknowledge
the receipt of another packet from England, with the
gratifying intelligence that you were all well on the 7th of
April. My time has passed very stupidly for some months,
but the town is now beginning to fill,—people are returning
for the cold season. Term has commenced, and Mr. F—
has no reason to complain of business falling off; if he fall
not from it, all will be well. My first Patroness Lady
Chambers is returned from her tour but Sir Robert having
purchased an elegant mansion in Calcutta, (for which he
is to pay £6,000, in England) her Ladyship has full em-
ployment in arranging and fitting up her new abode; so
that I see but little of her; she is however always kind and
full of condescension towards me when we do meet.

19th December.

Mr. Fay has met with a gentleman here, a Dr. Jackson
who comes from the same part of Ireland, and knows many
of his connections; they soon became intimate. Dr. J—
is physician to the Company, and in very high practice
besides; I have been visited by the whole family. The
eldest son a fine noble looking young man, is a Lieutenant
in the Army, and has lately married a very pretty little
woman, who came out in the same ship under the pro-(Wes toie mes ee

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 199

tection of his mother; as did Miss Chantry a most amiable
and interesting young Lady, who now resides with them.
They have not been long arrived.” The Doctor’s Lady is
a native of Jamaica and like those “children of the sun,”
frank and hospitable to a degree—fond of social parties in
the old style “where the song and merry jest circulate round
the festive board” particularly after supper. Dinner parties
they seldom give; but I have been present at several else-
where since the commencement of the cold season. The
dinner hour as I mentioned before is two, and it is custo-
mary to sit a long while at table; particularly during the
cold season; for people here are mighty fond of grills and
stews, which they season themselves, and generally make
very hot. The Burdwan stew takes a deal of time; it is
composed of every thing at table, fish, flesh and fowl;:—
somewhat like the Spanish Olla Podrida,—Many suppose
that unless prepared in a silver saucepan it cannot be good;
on this point I must not presume to give an opinion, being
satisfied with plain food; and never tasting any of these
incentives to luxurious indulgence. During dinner a good
deal of wine is drank, but a very little after the cloth is
removed; except in Bachelors parties, as they are called;
for the custom of reposing, if not of sleeping after dinner is
so general that the streets of Calcutta are from four to five
in the afternoon almost as empty of Europeans as if it were
midnight—Next come the evening airings to the Course,
every one goes, though sure of being half suffocated with
dust. On returning from thence, tea is served, and univer-
sally drank here, even during the extreme heats. After tea,
either cards or music fill up the space, ’till ten, when supper
is generally announced. Five card loo is the usual game
and they play a rupee a fish limited to ten. This will strike

 

Ce es eoCt ee Se S

adage gle Gake heres

aaa ge

ae a ae
sa re ‘ she Sri dae Sarge SI Cs auicnee e a Te re es rec Sees ae a Sa aoe Kee eee Sey ne

eBay <a hiey RP TOR  TE a  E

200 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

you as being enormously high but it is thought nothing of
here. Tré dille and Whist are much in fashion but ladies
seldom join in the latter; for though the stakes are mod-
erate, bets frequently run high among the gentlemen which
renders those anxious who sit down for amusement, lest
others should lose by their blunders.

Formal visits are paid in the evening; they are generally
very short, as perhaps each lady has a dozen to make and
a party waiting for her at home besides. Gentlemen also
call to offer their respects and if asked to put down their
hat, it is considered as an invitation to supper. Many a hat
have I seen vainly dangling in its owner’s hand for half an
hour, who at last has been compelled to withdraw without
any one’s offering to relieve him from the burthen.

Great preparations are making for the Christmas, and
New year’s public balls ;—of course you will not expect me
to write much till they are over; nor to own the truth am
I in spirits, having great reason to be dissatisfied with Mr.
Fay’s conduct. Instead of cultivating the intimacy of those
who might be serviceable or paying the necessary attention
to persons in power; I can scarcely ever prevail on him to
accompany me even to Dr. Jackson’s who is generally
visited by the first people; but he cannot endure being
subjected to the forms of society—some times he has called
on Sir Robert Chambers, but the other Judges he has never
seen, except on the bench since his admission: he did not
even accept Sir Elijah Impey’s obliging offer to introduce
him to Mr. Hyde, but suffered Mr. Sealy to perform that
ceremony, and when the Chief Justice advanced to accom-
pany him, he was forced to acknowledge that he had been
already introduced,—upon which the great man turned on
his heel and hardly ever noticed him afterwards. ThisORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 201

happened on the day Mr. Fay was admitted to the bar at
Mr. Hyde’s public breakfast at whose house the profes-
sional gentlemen all meet on the first day of every Term
and go from thence in procession to the Court House.** [I
will now close this letter in the hope of having better ac-
counts to give you in my next.

Your’s affectionatelyre eee rae

ce

ia Le ed

a

 

Letter XVIII

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
  
  

Calcutta, 27th Jan., 1781.
My Dear SIsTER,

Since my last we have been engaged in a perpetual
round of gaiety—keeping Christmas, as it is called, though
sinking into disuse at home, prevails here with all its
ancient festivity. The external appearance of the English
gentlemen’s houses on Christmas-day, is really pleasing
from its novelty. Large plantain trees are placed on each
side of the principal entrances, and the gates and pillars
being ornamented with wreaths of flowers fancifully dis-
posed, enliven the scene.

All the servants bring presents of fish and fruit from
the Banian down to the lowest menial; for these it is true
we are obliged in many instances to make a return, perhaps
beyond the real value, but still it is considered as a com-
pliment to our burrah din (great day). A public dinner is
given at the Government house to the gentlemen of the
Presidency, and the evening concludes with an elegant Ball
& Supper for the Ladies. These are repeated on New
year’s day and again on the King’s birth day. I should
Say have been, for that grand festival happening at the
hottest season, and every one being obliged to appear full
dressed, so much inconvenience resulted from the immense
croud, even in some cases severe fits of illness being the
consequence, that it has been determined to change the day
of celebration to the 8th of December which arrangement

gives general satisfaction.—I shall not attempt to describe
202Vso Ae te
A Mace 8 Ae Be

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 203

these splendid entertainments farther than by saying that
they were in the highest style of magnificence: in fact such
grand parties so much resemble each other, that a particular
detail would be unnecessary and even tiresome.

I felt far more gratified some time ago, when Mrs.
Jackson procured me a ticket for the Harmonic ** which was
supported by a select number of gentlemen who each in
alphabetical rotation gave a concert, ball, and supper, dur-
ing the cold season; I believe once a fortnight—that I at-
tended was given by a Mr. Taylor, which closed the sub-
scription and I understand it will not be renewed, a circum-
stance generally regretted as it was an elegant amusement
and conducted on a very eligible plan. We had a great
deal of delightful music, and Lady Chambers, who is a
capital performer on the harpsichord played amongst other
pieces a Sonata of Nicolai’s in a most brilliant style. A
gentleman who was present and who seemed to be quite
charmed with her execution, asked me the next evening, if
I did not think that j7g Lady C— played the night before,
was the prettiest thing I ever heard? He meant the rondo
which is remarkably lively; but I dare say “Over the water
to Charley” would have pleased him equally well.

Mrs. Hastings was of the party; she came in late, and
happened to place herself on the opposite side of the room,
beyond a speaking distance, so strange to tell, I quite forgot
she was there! After some time had elapsed, my observant
friend Mrs. Jackson, who had been impatiently watching
my looks, asked if I had paid my respects to the Lady
Governess? JI answered in the negative, having had no
opportunity, as she had not chanced to look towards me
when I was prepared to do so. “Oh, replied the kind old
lady, you must fix your eyes on her, and never take them

en a Se eb
tes re :
eee pe ra

ery a aie :
. Snagit
ee EES eS ent

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
   

Pe
aed

ASeee ae LE ee
LEST in arta Beri Ore
es er ae “ % po rr ee rs

Ba ait eh enle or

Be, et ny -

el ae re ea a

ae Joe

  

204 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

off ’till she notices you; Miss Chantry has done this, and so
have I; it is absolutely necessary to avoid giving offence.”
I followed her prudent advice and was soon honoured with
a complacent glance, which I returned as became me by a
most respectful bend. Not long after she walked over to
our side and conversed very affably with me, for we are
now through Mrs. Jackson’s interference on good terms
together.

She also introduced me to Lady Coote ** and her insepa-
table friend Miss Molly Bazett. It was agreed between
them when they were both girls that, whichever married
first the other was to live with her, and accordingly when
Sir Eyre took his lady from St. Helena, of which place her
father was governor, Miss Molly who is a native of the
island accompanied them to England and from thence to
India, where she has remained ever since ;—thus giving a
proof of steady attachment not often equalled and never
perhaps excelled.

19th February.

Yesterday being the Anniversary of our release from
imprisonment, we invited Dr. Jackson’s family, Mr.
O’Donnell and some friends to assist in its celebration; I
call it my ‘Jubilee Day’ and trust my dear friends at
home did not forget the occasion.

This reminds me to tell you that Sudder Khan and
Ayres our chief enemies have both closed their career of
wickedness. The former died of wounds received before
Tellicherry; and ‘the latter having repeatedly advanced
close to the lines of that place, holding the most con-
temptuous language and indecent gestures towards the
Officers; setting every one at defiance and daring them toORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 205

fire at him, (I suppose in a state of intoxication, miserable
wretch:) was at length picked off, to use a military phrase.
—Too honourable a death for such a monster of iniquity.
My hope was, that he would have been taken prisoner, and
afterwards recognised and shot as a deserter.

Poor West is also dead; he never reached his destina-
tion—the boat he went up in, by some accident struck on
a sand bank and nearly all on board perished.

26th March.

A Frigate being ordered to sail for Europe with dis-
patches from Government, I shall avail myself of the
occasion, and close this letter with a few remarks on our
theatrical amusements.

The house was built by subscription; it is very neatly
fitted up, and the scenery and decorations quite equal to
what could be expected here. The parts are entirely rep-
resented by amateurs in the drama—no hired performers
being allowed to act. I assure you I have seen characters
supported in a manner that would not disgrace any Euro-
pean stage. Venice Preserved was exhibited some time ago,
when Captain Call (of the Army) Mr. Droz (a member of
the Board of Trade) and Lieutenant Norfar, in Jaffier,
Pierre, and Belvidera shewed very superior theatrical tal-
ents. The latter has rather an effeminate appearance off
the stage, yet I am told he is a very brave Officer when on
service; and though always dressed as if for a ball, when he
makes his appearance, is among the most alert in a moment
of danger. I cannot imagine how he contrives it, for the
present mode of arranging the hair requires a great deal of
time to make it look tolerable; however this is said to be
the case.*’-—One of the chief inconveniences in establish-

et oe Yao 9at aS ry reed
CAR ats : ra i a
Sapahin 5 PS ae =

Ce
od

fee eR Oe hace! a5

Se
rie ee addins So te

ete POG ot

Fate aaa

BR rah 1h apo a ee phe OSE
Pe LO Re en ke feo es rae Oo a 6s ry
Boe Nelae ey Meg peR sy eee y rary»

o
eo ORO eee

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

a06 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

ments of this kind, is that the performers being independent
of any controul, will some times persist in taking parts to
which their abilities are by no means adequate;—this
throws an air of ridicule over the whole, as the spectators
are too apt to indulge their mirth on the least opening of
that kind: in fact many go to see a tragedy for the express
purpose of enjoying a laugh, which is certainly very illib-
eral and must prove detrimental to the hopes of an enfant
institution like the one in question:—for my own part I
think such a mode of passing an evening highly rational;
and were I not debarred by the expence should seldom miss
a representation—but a gold mohur is really too much to
bestow on such a temporary gratification. Adieu—TI shall
write again soon.
Your’s most affectionately

BaeLetter XIX

Calcutta, 26th May.
My Dear SIstTeEr,

You must have perceived that the style of my letters
for some months past has been constrained, nor could it
possibly be otherwise; for not wishing to grieve your
affectionate heart by a recital of the melancholy change
in my prospects, occasioned by Mr. Fay’s imprudent be-
haviour, I was reduced to enlarge on less important sub-
jects. Some hints however escaped me which must have
led you to suspect that all was not going on properly; but
his conduct of late has been such that no hope remains of
his ever being able to prosecute his profession here.

Ever since our arrival he has acted in every respect
directly contrary to my advice—By constantly associating
with persons who had distinguished themselves by thwart-
ing the measures of Government,—he soon became equally
obnoxious. On one occasion when a tax was proposed to
be levied on houses, several meetings were held at our
house, wherein he openly insisted on the illegality of such
a procedure, and encouraged his new friends to assert
their independence. I remonstrated in the strongest terms
against measures so pregnant with evil, and which must
terminate in utter ruin, if not speedily abandoned; the
character of our chief ruler being well known;:—he will
never desert a friend or forgive an enemy; what chance
then has an individual who rashly incurs his resentment of

escaping its baneful effects? all this and more I repeatedly
207

Fas Ok Bw Re go Ma
i 0

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
  
   
 
 
  
    

Ree aeoT eee ee

om

ee ad

3 a
: é ay, Gein amas aa. ta epee igiews WD ;

=

= bt

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

Dene eee

568 + ~=ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 

but alas vainly urged—my representations were as hereto-
fore treated with contempt: he still persevered, giving
himself entirely up to low and unworthy pursuits, while
his professional duties were wholly neglected and his best
friends slighted.

We were frequently invited to parties which he as con-
stantly evaded, leaving me to make what excuses I could
for his absence.—My dear kind Patroness Lady Chambers,
still continues on my account to shew him attention as do
the Jacksons and some few others: she has lately added a
son to her family;—I was with her at the time, and the
sweet infant seems to have formed closer ties between us.
On a late occasion however she was compelled to speak
plainly. The christening is to take place in a few days;
Sir Elijah and Lady Impey have offered to stand for the
child, and Lady C— wishes me to be present, but Sir E—
positively refuses to meet Mr. F— who of course cannot
be included; so unless I can reconcile him to the omission
I must remain at home also.

3rd June.

The grand ceremony is over. I had no difficulty with
Mr. F— he declared himself pre-engaged the instant I
mentioned the subject, and insisted that I should make
some apology for him which was readily promised—You
may suppose that I could not under such circumstances
enjoy much pleasure though Sir E— and his Lady behaved
very graciously. But the idea that my husband was so
totally proscribed where he might have figured among the
foremost pierced my very soul; yet was I forced to put on
the appearance of cheerfulness, that I might seem to receive
as a compliment what was certainly so intended. ‘TheORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 209

public countenance of Lady C— and being admitted to
such a select party cannot but operate favourably for me
at this crisis, when I shall stand so much in need of support.

24th June.
Though term is now far advanced, Mr. Fay has scarcely

a brief. The attorneys are positively afraid to employ him;
and causes have actually come on with two advocates on
one side and one on the other, rather than permit him to
appear in them. What a noble opportunity of making an
ample fortune is thus wantonly thrown away! Heaven
grant me patience. I have only this reflection to console
me, that every effort in my power has been made to ward
off the blow which is now inevitable.

I yesterday confided to Lady C— my real situation: who
(on my stating that Mr. F— must certainly be obliged to
quit the Settlement very shortly, ) with the utmost kindness
insisted on my making her house, my home whenever that
event should take place; and Sir R— has in the most cor-
dial way inforced the invitation—Thus through the good-
ness of Providence am I provided with a secure and highly
respectable asylum, till a passage to Europe can be obtained
on moderate terms, a difficult matter to accomplish.

17th July.

On the last day of the present month we must quit our
house; and when my husband and I may reside under the
same roof together again, Heaven alone can tell. It is
astonishing to see with what apparent unconcern he sup-
ports the shock: but the acquisition of a new Patron has
raised his spirits. Colonel Watson, a man of superior abili-
ties and immense fortune has been long a determined op-

a a

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210 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

So ca rm HT

poser of Government, and the étter enemy of Sir Elijah
Impey, against whom he has set an impeachment on foot,
to prosecute which it is requisite that a confidential agent
should serve the process on the defendant here, and proceed
to England with the necessary documents.*? Mr. F— has
contrived to get himself appointed to this office: he has
drawn up a set of articles many copies of which are pre-
paring by Bengalee writers, who though they profess to
understand English and are tolerably correct in copying
what is put before them, know not the meaning of any thing
they write; a great convenience this to such as conduct
affairs that require secrecy, since the persons employed, can-
not, if they were so disposed, betray their trust. Colonel
Watson never comes here; all is carried on with an air of
profound mystery—I like not such proceedings and doubt
if any good can come of them, but I dare not interfere nor
drop even a hint which might lead to suspicion that any
thing extraordinary is going forward. The duty of a wife
which is paramount to all other civil obligations, compels
me silently to witness what is beyond my power to coun-
teract; although the character of a highly revered friend is
obliquely glanced at, and may be in future more seriously
implicated in the business—you will guess to whom I
allude. Adieu you shall hear from me again when I
change my abode.

St a Ns

a Ra Oe ae Ee aS aed
a bya na awe nares ee : Seley pet

Your’s affectionately

EoLetter XX

Calcutta, 28th August.
My Dear Sister,

Since I wrote last, my feelings have been harrassed in
various ways almost beyond endurance—Mr. F ay quitted
me on the 31st ultimo, and the rest of that day was de-
voted to the distressing (however Just and necessary) task
of delivering back such articles of furniture as had not been
paid for, to the persons who supplied us with them; and
also returning what had been borrowed of different friends
for our convenience; what remained was taken Possession
of next morning, by a man to whom my unfortunate hus-
band had given a bond for money advanced on the most
exorbitant terms, to support his extravagance. Thus am I
left destitute of every thing but my clothes, to endure the
wretched effects of his imprudence, with a constitution
weakened by the sufferings and privations, I underwent
during my eventful journey, added to the dread which J
cannot avoid feeling lest that unlucky blow I received in
Calicut should be productive of serious consequences.

Lady Chambers welcomed me as a sister, she wishes me
to accompany her every where but time alone can reconcile
me to general society:—The very day of my removal here,
a circumstance was disclosed that determined me no longer
to bind my destiny with that of a man who could thus set
at defiance all ties divine and human. After consulting my
legal friends I demanded a separation, to which he having
consented, a deed was drawn up by Mr. S—— under the

21II

  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  

PER RT ndoo ee ee eee ET Ne
TEA a s Ege ert oe

aa Serta

-—s at Rr me ae Tr Nad

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

212 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 

inspection of Sir Robert Chambers, in the fullest manner
possible rendering me wholly independent of Mr. F—’s
authority, with power, to make a will &c. in short conceived
in the strongest terms our language could supply. I have
appointed Mr. G. Jones Solicitor of Lincoln’s Inn and Mr.
Mc Veagh one of the masters in Chancery here to act as
my Trustees. Two more respectable men I could not have
chosen. You my dear sister, who know better than any
one, what exertions I have used, and what sacrifices I have
vainly made for this most ungrateful of beings, will not
be surprised to find that even my patience was not proof
against this last outrage.

But let me dismiss the hateful subject merely stating that
the deeds were signed on the 11th instant. His secret is
safe with me, though when we met on that occasion he had
the insolence to hint his belief that out of revenge I should
divulge it. So let him s7é// think, for I deigned no reply
except by a look; when I with secret triumph beheld his
hitherto undaunted eye sink beneath the indignant glance
of mine.

“Tis Conscience that makes cowards of us all.”

5th September.
Sir Robert being appointed President of the Court at
Chinsurah, is gone up to take possession of his charge,
accompanied by Lady Chambers and the family.” So here
am I left alone to ramble over this great house and medi-
tate on irreparable evils. Sir R— has however kindly
entrusted me with the keys of his immense library, which
will furnish a rich treat when my mind acquires sufficient
calmness to look beyond itself in search of amusement.
The acquaintance of Mrs, Wheler I have found a mostdie Sink BSW tee Sek cae
o iD

Bae ¥

  
 
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

Stead

Bees
eet
et pe

EERE II Rt Rare re yer rele me ee gree hee er ere

wr se
‘ ah : =A API pd -
St Sypris rome ry ap rmem tach et TFS

on
eS

eee

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 213

valuable acquisition.*° I went with Lady C— to pass a
day with her at the gardens, and have been treated with
the utmost attention ever since. She has authorised me to
look up to her as a steady patroness on all occasions. Mr.
Hastings being gone up the country on political business
Mr. Wheler of course takes the chair during his absence
so you may judge what influence Mrs. W— possesses; but
“she bears her honors so meekly” and contrives to soften
the refusals which she is frequently compelled to give by
so much affability and sympathy, as to conciliate all parties
and render herself generally beloved.

I have never mentioned yet how indifferently we are
provided with respect to a place of worship; divine service
being performed, in a room, (not a very large one) at the
Old Fort; which is a great disgrace to the settlement.
They talk of building a Church and have fixed on a very
eligible spot whereon to erect it but no further progress
has been made in the business.*°

I now propose, having full leisure to give you some
account of the East Indian customs and ceremonies, such
as I have been able to collect, but it must be considered as
a mere sketch, to point your further researches. And first
for that horrible custom of widows burning themselves with
the dead bodies of their husbands; the fact is indubitable,
but I have never had an opportunity of, witnessing the
various incidental ceremonies, nor have I ever seen any
European who had been present at them. I cannot suppose
that the usage originated in the superior tenderness, and
ardent attachment of Indian wives towards their spouses,
since the same tenderness and ardour would doubtless
extend to his offspring and prevent them from exposing the
innocent survivors to the miseries attendant on an orphan

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214. ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

state, and they would see clearly that to live and cherish
these pledges of affection would be the most rational and
natural way of shewing their regard for both husband and
children. I apprehend that as personal fondness can have
no part here at all, since all matches are made between the
parents of the: parties who are betrothed to each other at
too early a period for choice to be consulted, this practice
is entirely a political scheme intended to insure the care and
good offices of wives to their husbands, who have not failed
in most countries to invent a sufficient number of rules to
render the weaker sex totally subservient to their authority.
I cannot avoid smiling when I hear gentlemen bring for-
ward the conduct of the Hindoo women, as a test of supe-
rior character, since [ am well aware that so much are we
the slaves of habit every where that were it necessary for a
woman’s reputation to burn herself in England, many a
one who has accepted a husband merely for the sake of an
establishment, who has lived with him without affection;
perhaps thwarted his views, dissipated his fortune and
rendered his life uncomfortable to its close, would yet
mount the funeral pile with all imaginable decency and die
with heroic fortitude. The most specious sacrifices are not
always the greatest, she who wages war with a naturally
petulant temper, who practises a rigid self-denial, endures
without complaining the unkindness, infidelity, extrava-
gance, meanness or scorn, of the man to whom she has given
a tender and confiding heart, and for whose happiness and
well being in life all the powers of her mind are engaged;
—1is ten times more of a heroine than the slave of bigotry
and superstition, who affects to scorn the life demanded of
her by the laws of her country or at least that country’s
custom; and many such we have in England, and I doubtspokes

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 215

not in India likewise: so indeed we ought, have we not a
religion infinitely more pure than that of India? The
Hindoos, or gentoos are divided into four castes or tribes
called the Brahmin, the Khutree, the Buesho, and the
Shodor: their rank in the land, declines gradually to the
last named, and if any of them commit an offence which
deprives them of the privileges that belong to their respec-
tive castes, they become Parias, which may therefore be
called a filthy tribe formed as it were of the refuse of the
rest. ‘Those are indeed considered the very dregs of the peo-
ple, and supply all the lowest offices of human life. They
all profess what is called the religion of Brahma, from the
caste which bears his name all the priests are chosen, who
are treated in every respect with distinguished honour and
reverence. ‘Their religious Code is contained in a book
called the Veda, which only the Brahmins are allowed to
read; it is written in a dead language called the Sanscrit.
They worship three Deities, Brahma, the creator, Vistnoo
the preserver, and Sheevah the destroyer. But they pro-
fess to believe them only the representations or types of the
great spirit Brahma (the Supreme God) whom they also call
the spirit of wisdom, and the principle of Truth: none but
Hindoos are allowed to enter temples, but I am told the
Idols worshipped there are of the very ugliest forms that
imagination can conceive; and to whom Pope’s description

of the heathen deities may, in other respects, be strictly
applied.

“Gods changeful, partial, passionate unjust.
Whose attributes are rage, revenge, or lust.”

I lament to add to such wretched objects as these, num-
bers of the deluded natives are devoted in the strongest

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216 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

and most absolute manner possible. A certain sect named
Pundarams live in continual beggary; extreme hunger alone
induces them to ask for food, which when granted, they
only take just what will preserve life, and spend all their
days in singing songs in praise of Sheevah; another sect add
a tabor, and hollow brass rings about their ancles to in-
crease the noise with which they extol their deity. I con-
sider both these as a species of monks but believe the holy
fathers fall far short of the Jogees and Seniases of India, in
their religious austerities. ‘These not only endure all pos-
sible privations with apparent indifference, but invent for
themselves various kinds of tortures which they carry to an
astonishing length; such as keeping their hands clenched
till the nails grow into them,—standing on one foot for
days and even weeks together—and hiring people to sup-
port their hands in a perpendicular position.

Their expiatory punishments are some of them dreadful.
I myself saw a man running in the streets with a piece of
iron thrust through his tongue which was bleeding profusely.
On the Churruk Poojah (swinging feast) hundreds I have
heard, are suspended at an amazing height by means of
nooks, firmly fixed in the flesh of the back, to which some-
times a cloth is added round the body to afford the miserable
victim a chance of escape, should the hook give way. I, by
accident, (for voluntarily nothing should have tempted me to
witness such a spectacle) saw one of these wretches, who was
whirling round with surprizing rapidity, and at that distance
scarcely appeared to retain the semblance of a human form.
They firmly expect by this infliction to obtain pardon of all
their offences, and should death be the consequence, they go
straight to heaven—thus changing the horrid state of priva-
tion and misery in which they exist here, for one of bliss: if— een Pm Nomar Sorry he thom bye bo Paes

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA  ar7

such be their real persuasion, who can condemn the result.
Indeed under other circumstances it is found that, not-
withstanding their apparent gentleness and timidity, the
Hindoos will meet death with intrepid firmness—they are
also invincibly obstinate, and will dée rather than concede a
point: of this a very painful instance has lately occurred.—
A Hindoo beggar of the Brahmin caste went to the house of
a very rich man, but of an inferior tribe, requesting alms;
he was either rejected, or considered himself inadequately
relieved, and refused to quit the place. As his lying before
the door and thus obstructing the passage was unpleasant,
one of the servants first intreated, then insisted on his re-
tiring, and in speaking pushed him gently away; he chose
to call this push a blow, and cried aloud for redress, declar-
ing that he would never stir from the spot ’till he had
obtained justice against the man: who now endeavoured to
sooth him but in vain; like a true Hindoo he sat down,
and never moved again, but thirty-eight hours afterwards
expired, demanding justice with his latest breath: being
well aware that in the event of this, the master would have
an enormous fine to pay, which accordingly happened. I
am assured that such evidences of the surprizing indifference
to life, the inflexible stubbornness, and vindictive disposi-
tions of these people are by no means rare; it seems extraor-
dinary though, that sentiments and feelings apparently so
contrary to each other should operate on the same minds;
seeing them so quiet and supine, so (if it may be so ex-
pressed ) only half alive, as they generally shew themselves,
one is prepared for their sinking, without an effort to avert
any impending danger; but that they should at the same
time nourish so violent and active a passion as revenge, and
brave even death so intrepidly as they often do in pursuit of

ca
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218 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

it, is very singular:—but enough of these silly enthusiasts.

J had lately the opportunity of witnessing the marriage
procession of a rich Hindoo. The bride (as I was told)
sat in the same palanquin with the bridegroom, which was
splendidly ornamented ;—they were accompanied by all the
relations on both sides, dressed in the most superb manner;
—some on horse back, some in palanquins, and several on
elephants ;—bands of dancing girls and musicians I under-
stood preceded them ;—and in the evening there were fire-
works at the bride’s father’s house and the appearance of
much feasting &c. but no Europeans were present. This
wedding was of a nature by no means uncommon here; a
rich man had an only daughter, and he bargained to dispose
of her, or rather to take for her a husband out of a poor
man’s family, but of his own Caste: for this is indispen-
sable. In this case the bridegroom is brought home to his
father-in-law’s house and becomes a member of the family;
so that although the law prohibits a man from giving a
dowry with his daughter, yet you see he does it in effect,
since he gives a house to a man who wants one; gives in
fact, a fortune but saddled with an encumbrance ;—perhaps
in a few years the old man may die, and the young one hav-
ing fulfilled the wishes of his parents, and provided for his
own wants, may employ some of his female relations to look
round among the poorer families of his caste for a pretty
girl, whom he will take as a second wife, tho’ the first
always retains the pre-eminence, and governs the house:
nor can the husband devote more of his time to one than
the other,—the law compelling him to live with them
alternately, you may be sure the account is strictly kept.
My Banian Dattaram Chuckerbutty has been married be-
tween twenty and thirty years, without faking a secondCk ea Rot ee

  
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 219

lady, and he boasts of being much happier with his old
wife (as he calls her) than the generality of his friends are
amidst the charms of variety. For my own part, I have
not a doubt but he is in the right.

The Hindoo ladies are never seen abroad; when they
go out their carriages are closely covered with curtains, so
that one has little chance of satisfying curiosity. I once
saw two apparently very beautiful women: they use so
much art however, as renders it difficult to judge what
claim they real//y have to that appellation—Their whole
time is taken up in decorating their persons:—the hair—
eye-lids—eye-brows—teeth—hands and nails, all undergo
certain processes to render them more completely fascinat-
ing; nor can one seriously blame their having recourse to
these, or the like artifices—the motive being to secure the
affections of a husband, or to counteract the plans of a rival.

27th September.

The Hindoos who can afford to purchase wood for a
funeral pile, burn their dead; one cannot go on the river
without seeing numbers of these exhibitions, especially at
night, and most disgusting spectacles they are. I will not
enlarge on the subject. This mode however is far superior
to that of throwing them into the river as practised by the
poor; where they offend more senses than one. I have
been frequently obliged to return precipitately from a walk
along the river side, by the noisome exhalations which arose
from these wretched objects.

Some of the Hindoo customs respecting the sick are
really shocking—When a person is given over by the
Brahmins, (who are physicians as well as priests) the re-
lations immediately carry him, if within a reasonable dis-share ral Ee re eee TTS
e Cog ar sone ee Ss : Leta ose 3
Foe ~ ee a ieee ne

eae

PBN a RST OER Fon ee a ae nr Sa a hae ea

  

220 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

tance, to the banks of the Ganges, where he is smeared
with the mud, quantities of which I am told are thrust into
his mouth, nose, and ears. ‘This treatment soon reduces
him to a dying state; nor is it desirable that he should
recover, since he must in that case lose caste; for it is an
established rule, that whoever removes from the spot where
the sacred rites have been performed, becomes an outcast.
Dr. Jackson was once fortunate enough to be called in to
attend the wife of a Hindoo Rajah whom they were on the
point of taking to the river when he arrived—he assured
the Rajah that he perceived no dangerous symptoms and
would answer for her doing well.—Luckily the tremendous
ceremonies had not commenced: The event justified our
good Doctor’s predictions—the lady is still living and his
success in this instance, has led to several others, highly
gratifying to the best feelings of humanity and certainly
beneficial to his fortune.

This letter has run to such an enormous length that I
must now conclude, with wishing that I may soon hear
good news of you. I remain,

Your’s most affectionately

KE. F.Letter XXI

Calcutta, 17th December.
My Dear SISTER.

Sir R— and Lady C— have been down since I wrote
last, and remained here during term, but are now gone
up again, though much distressed. Mrs. C— prefers stay-
ing here.—A melancholy event has occurred in the family;
the sweet little boy just turned of six months old, to
whom I was so fondly attached, died a few weeks ago.
Dear interesting child! I shall Jong lament his loss. He
was not ill more than three days; so rapid is the progress of
disease in this country.

Mr. and Mrs. Hosea are arrived in Town and have taken
accommodations on the Grosvenor, Captain Coxon. I was
in hopes of being able to take my passage with them but
am disappointed.”

Mr. H— was Resident at one of the upper stations; he
is a man of high character and generally esteemed; and
his wife one of the most amiable women I ever knew; it is
impossible to do otherwise than love her. As she daily
looks to be confined, her leaving Calcutta till after that
period, is out of the question, so they must suffer the
Grosvenor to proceed to Madras without them, where she
is expected to remain a month at least, and the family and
baggage of Mr. H— are to follow in a Country ship at the
risk of arriving too late.

The agreement is that, if she sail from thence before a
221

SEO, er o Vovet geet

CFT TES.ie ee clatter oe eee et eee ’
ri Katies ers e es oer ;

a ae CE eee eet errant Ser oe
We ie rate Le aie RESTS Oh eth COSC Jase Nair fi

Vt.s.

  

222 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

certain day a small sum is to be forfeited; but after that
day, should Captain Coxon be compelled to proceed on his
voyage without them, he is still to receive ten thousand
rupees, that is half the passage money by way of compensa-
tion. I state these particulars to shew what large sums
are exacted of passengers.

The society of Mrs. Chambers, who is a fine looking
respectable old lady, well informed and chearful, with that
of Mrs. Hosea, who has charming spirits, enables me to pass
the time far more pleasantly than when I was left here
during the rains. Besides I often visit at Dr. Jacksons,
and have made acquaintance with several agreeable families,
who allow me to call on them without formality; the very
idea of which is hateful to me at present: so cruelly fallen
are my once highly and justly raised expectations. For
what place do I now hold in the Society with which I am
permitted to mix? Alas, none except by sufferance: but
most ardently do I wish to escape from this fatal spot the
scene of so many severe afflictions, and seek comfort with
those who have never failed to afford it. There I shall not
be constantly reminded of past hopes, now alas! sunk in
disappointment. Think not these observations proceed
from a repining spirit, or unmindfulness of favors received:
I have been most beneficently treated and my views have
been furthered in a way which I had no right whatever to
expect. Can attentions like those be forgotten? No! it
forms my proudest boast that I have such friends, and while
life remains I must ever cherish the remembrance of their
generous exertions. The approaching season always in-
spires melancholy reflections—I will therefore pass it over,
and look forward to the next, when by the blessing of
Providence I hope to be with my beloved family.ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 223

27th January, 1782.

My dear Mrs. Hosea has thank heaven, got happily
over her confinement, which took place three weeks ago;
and all is now bustle and preparation for their departure.—
Sir Robert’s eldest son, Thomas, goes under their care;
he is a charming boy, nearly seven years of age, which is
rather late; but no good opportunity has occurred ’till
now ;—a Miss Shore (the daughter of an intimate friend)
about the age of Thomas, also proceeds with them. Mrs.
H— takes one little girl of her own, sixteen months old;
the baby is to be left with Lady C—: she promises to be a
lovely child.

We are to have the christening to-morrow when I shall
take my leave of large parties; except one, which I must
attend. Mrs. H—s infant daughter is to be christened
early next month and Sir R—s whole family is invited. At
present I devote myself entirely to Mrs. H— who I really
think has a friendship for me. Would it were in my power
to accompany her, but that for many reasons is impossible.

Another Indiaman (The Dartmouth Captain Thompson)
has just sailed, but she too is absolutely crowded with pas-
sengers; so I must have patience—It is almost incredible
what quantities of baggage, people of consequence invari-
ably take with them; I myself counted twenty-nine trunks
that were sent on board, for Mr. and Mrs. H— exclusive
of chests of drawers and other packages, with cabin stores
&c. and more still remain to be shipped. This separate
passage to Madras will add greatly to the expense; for
Captain Coxon would not have charged a rupee more, had
they embarked with him at Bengal; even removing so much

baggage from one ship to another will occasion no small
inconvenience.

ig Boe ed Ge WA

‘

Sto

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SSS ee
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asa

Seat Pong? :

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Betas so
cea gn Pema Pam reeneem hfe F
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Sa a

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Oia Ae Gia DOSNT TS Rr ile SRE orn
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eye 4 et
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A lr Te

a ek ae |

eas
Hi

   

224 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

   
 
 
  
   
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
 
   
   
 
 
 
  
 
 

Chinsurah, 10th February.

My time has been too much taken up for this fortnight
past to afford leisure for writing. I have another melan-
choly event to record; but let me proceed regularly.

Our friends left us on the second Instant. Poor Mrs.
H— was dreadfully affected at parting with her infant; it
seemed cruel for a mother to abandon her child only twenty-
five days old; but it must in all probability have fallen a
sacrifice. Her anxiety in other respects was great. Ad-
miral Suffren is said to keep a sharp look out after English
ships going down the Bay; but, I trust, Sir E. Hughes
will find the French fleet better employment than cruizing
about after our vessels.”

Sir R— and Lady C— felt severely the shock of their
son’s departure but poor Mrs. C— whose very soul seemed
treasured up, if I may so express myself, in her grandson,
sunk under the blow. On the fifth she was seized with a
violent illness, of which on the seventh she expired. Sir
R— is deeply afflicted, and I should be surprised if he were
not, for, to him she was ever an exemplary parent; and gave
an irrefragable proof of strong maternal affection, by
accompanying him to this country at her advanced period of
life. Her death is generally lamented, as a most chari-
table humane good woman. “Let her works praise her.”
She was in her seventieth year. We came up here immedi-
ately after the funeral which took place the next day, and
was most numerously attended; I may say by almost the
whole settlement—gentlemen as well as ladies. Her char-
acter demanded this testimony of respect and that it was
paid, affords me pleasure.

You will expect me to give you some account of this
place; but after having told you that it contains many verySecret tment arte rt perenne set Sa

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 225

fine houses,—is regularly built,—and kept remarkably
clean; nothing more remains to be said. One cannot ex-
pect much chearfulness among the inhabitants, though they
are treated with the utmost kindness, and all private prop-
erty is held sacred.

A strange circumstance occurred at the time of its cap-
ture, which will probably become a subject of litigation. A
King’s ship, either a frigate or a sloop of war, was lying
off Calcutta, when news arrived that the Dutch had com-
menced hostilities—The Captain accompanied by a party
of his officers and seamen, proceeded with all expedition to
Chinsurah, which he reached about 2 a. M. next day, and
summoned the place to surrender to His Majesty's Arms.
The Governor being totally unprovided with the means of
resistance complied ; so that when a detachment of the Com-
pany’s troops marched in at seven o’clock to take Posses-
sion they found the business already settled, and had the
laugh most completely against them. The Captain was
soon induced to relinquish his capture, but insisted that his
people were entitled to prize money, and has put in his
claim accordingly—Is it not an odd affair2

21st February.
Sir R— is going to dispatch some letters for England
and I will profit by the occasion, having at present nothing
further to communicate. All remains in uncertainty.
I am,
Your affectionate

E. F.

ear Bea
Uaere —
een Is

opr ere

Po te La es
Se ene

ete pak Sa alte
. : C
Tes ee ee

ea ee ee ee eee
a. sted 7” £5 rs ; . Sed > ¥

ane
PY

os

to

Fane nnaeepe ere e — 5 Ee + Sane a I — —SS—
I a een ee ee ah SOE Pe I alee) Fae ram Ce Seer =
Pe ee Ey mie ae leis pee AS S 1A AR aE ein dae a2 aes Spee ere. ae Se Cail ang eviniate
feeds eee ag pasa 5a = ES iS ala soe ave See = es a Se attay, na = Se ae Dae poh FR >
Se, Sa Secs ae oy pes, Ra - pits, rea i Z - Jn
— ‘ os PE ee oe Se ieee on oie a SSO ee eee ii a “

ee
fe

i int N

 

Petter X XG.

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  

Calcutta, 17th March.
My Dear SIsTER,

This is in all probability the last letter I shall write from
Bengal. Mrs. Wheler has been indefatigable in her exer-
tions; and has at length secured a passage for me on
the Valentine, Captain Lewis; a fine new ship—this is her
first voyage. I shall have a female companion too, which
is certainly desirable. Colonel and Mrs. Tottingham with
their family accompany us, besides these we shall have
seven military gentlemen, two of the company’s civil ser-
vants, and thirteen children, under Captain Lewis’s im-
mediate protection. The ship is expected to sail in the be-
ginning of next month. I dined in company with Captain
Lewis yesterday at Mrs. W—s, and we were both much
pleased with his behaviour—When we retired after dinner
my good friend congratulated me on the prospect of sailing
with such a commander, for many of them assume airs of
consequence, but Captain Lewis does not seem at all that
way disposed; and should the passengers prove agreeable,
I really think we may promise ourselves a comfortable
voyage.

I am using every effort in preparing my baggage, and
Lady C— with her usual kindness renders me every
assistance; nor have my other friends been neglectful of
any thing that can contribute to my comfort both on the
passage and after my arrival in England; till my health

shall, with the blessing of Providence, be restored, when
226A A aS

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 227

I may be enabled to seek out some decent means of
support.

I had a very eligible proposal made me of entering into
partnership with a most amiable lady who has lately en-
gaged in the school line, but was compelled to decline it, my
complaints requiring a change of climate, and that I should
consult those medical friends who have been accustomed to
prescribe for me. I much regret this circumstance, having
no doubt but we might have suited each other extremely
well, for she has proved herself a sincere friend in many
instances and must ever possess my grateful esteem.

28th March.

I had the pleasure last evening, of being present at the
marriage of Captain P. M and my young friend Miss
Tr ; the wedding was kept at Dr. Jackson’s and of course
they intended to have a little ball; but hardly any one
could be prevailed on to dance so late in the season. JI had
given a solemn promise that nothing should induce me to
run the risk, so to comply was out of the question.—At
length Mrs. Jackson, senior, who is turned of sixty-five,
opened the ball with a very good minuet, and afterwards
footed it away for about two hours, as gaily as the youngest:
her example took effect, and they made up a tolerable set.
The dance was succeeded by a magnificent supper, to which
nearly thirty persons sat down. After the customary toasts
we retired, and I reached home before one. May they be
happy is my sincere wish.

This is a terrible season for reaching the ships, none but
stout vessels can venture down. Colonel Tottingham pays
seventy pounds for a sloop to convey his family. I am in
this respect fortunate. Sir R— and Lady C— are going

 

 

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
  
    

eA ee Ae
*Pete ts he ook eee eee ee ei
ASOT a Vistas wash Sate ey pag

2 '
UR EA iret to a Ga a We Da it aid
bh Rt Rieti : cj Se Oe ea

       
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

228 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

to a place called Bearcole for the benefit of sea-bathing,
and I shall accompany them to Ingellee; which is within
a tide of the Valentine: my friends will then proceed by
land to the bathing-place; and one of the sloops by Sir
R—’s orders will convey me and my baggage to the Barra-
bola head where the ship is lying at anchor to complete her
cargo.

5th April.

I have every thing now ready and only wait for the
completion of Sir R—s preparations. I feel very impatient
to get to sea, being persuaded that it will have a salutary
effect on my health,—change of scene and company will
also be of service. I have taken leave of every one, and for
many shall preserve sentiments of the most grateful esteem.

Ow Boarp THE VALENTINE,”
Barrabola Head, 14th April.

I left Calcutta, on Tuesday the ninth Instant with Sir
R— and Lady C— the latter I am concerned to say is in
a very weak state, but trust sea bathing will be beneficial.
We had a boisterous trip of it down to Ingellee, and every
one but myself was dreadfully sea-sick.

My kind friends quitted me on Saturday evening.—I
felt quite forlorn at our separation. To be thrown among
strangers after experiencing for near nine months, the
attentive hospitality of such a family as I was torn from,
almost overcame my fortitude,—but I soon lost every other
sensation in that overwhelming one of sea-sickness, which
lasted the whole way, nor could I go on board till the
afternoon.—I shall keep this open till the Pilot goes, that

a el aN eee IE a rc a ace ae A ce
ef 7
age
2

m

=

4 A ——— St
es ea a aaa
- Secon eae ERMAN to a omar eePTL Are a3

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 229

you may have the satisfaction of hearing that we have
passed the first dangers.

20th ‘April.
Our commander is by no means the placid being we
supposed.—I doubt he will prove a very tyrant—instead of
paying attention, or shewing respect, he exacts both, and
woe be to those who fail in either. We are still waiting for
the remainder of our Cargo and Captain Lewis vents his
rage in drinking “confusion to the Board of Trade’ every
day.

28th April.

We had a narrow escape last evening though I knew
not of the danger till it was over. I was seized after tea
with severe spasms in the stomach, and had the doctor
with me; when suddenly the ship began to pitch and toss
violently ; and I heard Captain Lewis, call out in a voice of
thunder “Stand by the sheet anchor, heave the lead.” Pres-
ently all was quiet again, nor had I the least suspicion till
next morning of our having been adrzft on the Barrabola
sand; and what might have been our fate Heaven knows,
had not the sheet anchor brought us up; for it is a most
dangerous place, surrounded by shoals and out of sight of
land.

It is pleasant to see Captain Lewis so alert on perilous
occasions; he appears to be an excellent seaman, but the
roughest being surely that nature ever formed, in language
and manners. The oaths he swears by, are most horrible
and he prides himself in inventing new ones. How were
Mrs. Wheler and I mistaken? I see he must be humoured

> 5 ae oa Sr aae Bs roa, Ray Hep ete
= PY eS o « ue ie Sea On hee oe seem aera ees * rn m.
as a oe ae Fa cineca a ne ane EER PSY ae hea ata he et eerie
De a a a

“I
par Se 8 ay
Se
ae

ee s Nir great ator Bide

ean Rpe ooo eae
ae eS

- Rachael

ane
Fhe Wie “teal al
aeoarS",Sa

Fe et eros

ASOT

De en eee ac ote rot ar aaah
oc ph ae iar a ~ Deena

iG
; Se,
D .
a Pa
‘evr
5
'

230 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

like a child, for the least contradiction makes him almost
frantic.
2nd May.
Now I must indeed say farewell—the Pilot is just quit-
ting us, and has promised to put this on board the first vessel
that sails for England; there is one under dispatch. God
bless you. Within six months, I trust we shall all meet in
health and safety.
I am,
Your’s affectionately

E. F.Letter XXIII
St. James's Valley, St. Helena. 24th September, 1782.

My Dear SIstTEr,

A more uncomfortable passage than I have made to
this place, can hardly be imagined. The port of my cabin
being kept almost constantly shut, and the door opening
into the steerage; I had neither light nor air but from
a scuttle: thereby half the space was occupied by a great
gun, which prevented me from going near the port when
it was open.

Mrs. Tottingham at first took her meals in the Cuddy,
but the gentlemen were in general too fond of the bottle to
pay us the least attention; after tea, we were never asked
to cut in at cards, though they played every evening.
Captain Lewis swore so dreadfully, making use of such
vulgar oaths and expressions; and became so very rude and
boisterous, that Mrs. Tottingham withdrew intirely from
table, and never left her cabin for the last thirteen weeks:
but the Colonel took care to send her whatever was neces=
sary; I had no one to perform the like kind office for me,
and was therefore forced to venture up among them, or
risk starvation below.

The table was at first most profusely covered; being our
Captains favourite maxim “never to make two wants of
one”; Every one foresaw what must be the consequence,
but he would not listen to reason. Thus we went on till
the beginning of August, when he declared that we had

231

ek Se USS See

  
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
  
    

RE Ce ats SOENANO I ies S

Feet ee eee aterm een

= = - = e <a
eee art ott in a ety a toeed
eR I al
s s ee :

merase SEI
as ST

ST a
Si rer ene etree co sa

and ———=

  

232 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

rounded the Cape of Good hope; offering to back his
opinion by receiving twenty guineas, and return a guinea a
day till we reached St. Helena: but no one accepted the
bet; yet doubts seemed to hang on the minds of many.
However on the 5th at noon, hearing that we were in Lati-
tude 33. 32 S. I began to think with the Captain that, it
was needless to spare our stock, since a few days would
bring us a fresh supply—but alas! at 4 p. m. land was per-
ceived on the East coast of Africa; so near, that before we
tacked izes were seen on the shore—had this happened dur-
ing the night, nothing could have saved us from ship-
wreck.—Can I sufficiently bless Providence for this second
escape ?

On examining the state of our water and provision,
after the error was discovered, we were put on an allowance
of a quart of water a day, for all purposes; and for nearly
a month before we arrived here, we were forced to live on
salt provisions; even the poor children and the sick, had
no better fare.

While off the Cape, we encountered very stormy weather
but happily sustained no injury, except the loss of a fore-
top-mast which was easily replaced—Captain Lewis, one
day, thought fit to refuse me a passage through his cabin,
for which I had expressly stipulated. I retired, and in
a few minutes he came down to apologize for his behaviour,
and a most curious apology he made. He began by say-
ing that he had been beaten at péquet, and that losing
always made him cross, “besides, said he, to tell you the
truth I do not like ladies, not, (with a great oath) that I
have any particular objection to you, on the contrary I
really think you are a quiet good sort of woman enough; but
I cannot abide ladies, and I declare that, sometimes whenee Gh

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 233

you come up to me upon deck, and say, ‘how do you do Cap-
tain Lewis’ it makes my back open and shirt (sic) like a
knife’’—so much for this gentleman’s respect and _polite-
ness: I was forced to appear satisfied and he seemed very
penitent for some days; till another cross fit came on.

Judge if I did not rejoice at the sight of this romantic
Island; though its appearance from the sea is very un-
promising,—inaccessible rocks, and stupendous crags frown-
ing every side but one, nor is there any anchorage except
at that point—The town is literally an ascending valley
between two hills, just wide enough to admit of one street.
The houses are in the English style, with sashed windows,
and small doors. Here are back-gardens, but no gar-
dens; which makes the place intensely hot for want of a
free circulation of air; but when you once ascend Ladder
Hill the scene changes, and all seems enchantment. The
most exquisite prospects you can conceive burst suddenly
on the eye—fruitful vallies,—cultivated hills and diversified
scenery of every description. The inhabitants are obliging
and attentive, indeed, remarkably; so altogether I find it
a most welcome resting place. After being kept on salt
provisions for a month, one is not likely to be very fastidi-
ous; former abstinence giving more poignant relish to the
excellent food, which is set before us.

Lord North, and the Hastings, China ships, arrived soon

after us, but we are all still detained for Convey—how
vexatious.

18th October.

Yesterday Captain Lewis gave a grand entertainment
on board the Valentine. I was obliged to preside for Mrs.
Tottingham would not venture on the water till there wasNe hag hoa
SERIO ite paces air poe IS eal
Oe SOSA LE Pa

AA

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

234 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

a necessity for it. Wehad a most brilliant party. I danced
a good deal, but find no inconvenience from it. It is odd
enough, that he should have fixed on your birth day. You
may be sure I silently drank my own toast. Mrs. Comettee
and the other ladies seemed highly gratified, and well they
might, for no expence was spared to render it completely
elegant.

aaa ea Lan
Len een Co SN

ene -

20th October.
The Chapman is just arrived, in a most dreadful state,
having lost near fifty of her Crew in her passage from
Madras, from whence she sailed in Company with the
Dartmouth, which was wrecked off the Carnicobar island
the very ship I was, as I then thought, so unfortunate in
missing: so that in this instance, as in many others, I may
justly impute my safety to that Providence which

ea alee ete ar ar eet eect a as
* . a 5 ri a . A MERE | eles
ce ciate mane Neen 5 wae br Seine

“From hidden dangers, snares and death.
Has gently steered my way.”

11th November.

Among the passengers in the Dartmouth were Mrs.
Irwin and her infant son, a most interesting child, three
years of age, who were wonderfully preserved through suf-
ferings, enough to overwhelm the strongest constitution;
and proceeded to St. Helena on the Chapman on board
which were Mr. Casamajor and his mother, who secured
accommodations on the Lord North, not choosing to venture
farther on the Chapman.** Upon which I was applied to,
to accompany Mrs. Irwin who could not well proceed with-
out a female companion, and was not able to procure
accommodations on the other ships—I instantly deter-Rp tee rere

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 235

mined on accompanying her for the express purpose of
endeavouring to soften the inconveniences under which she
laboured, and to soothe her mind harrassed by the many
hardships of her distressing voyage.

25th November.

This day we left St. Helena in company with the Lord
North, Valentine, and Hastings. The Chapman unfortu-
nately sails very ill and cannot keep up with the other ships.
Captain Lewis told me at St. Helena in order to prevent
my quitting the Valentine, that we should be left in the
lurch the first fair opportunity; and so it happened long
ere we reached England.

Our passage was tremendous, the Sea breaking over
the ship and continually carrying some thing or other away ;:
nor had we any naval stores to replace what was thus lost.
Captain Walker and Mr. Gooch, the second officer, were
daily employed with the people, repairing the sails and
rigging, nor did they shrink from any labour. I never
beheld such exertion: very frequently they were obliged
to take the wheel, for scarcely a sufficient number could be
found to keep watch.

On entering the channel the weather was so thick that
no observation could be taken for five days. One night
after remaining several hours in dreadful suspense respect-
ing our situation, Captain Walker came down about half
past ten o'clock, to tell us that we were off Scilly. What
a declaration! off Scilly! on a stormy night in the begin-
ning of February! This intelligence was not likely to
tranquillize our feelings. Mrs. Irwin and myself passed a
sleepless night, and in the morning, one of the sailors
ascertained the place we were driven into to be St. Ive’s

  
  
   
 
    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 

Sorter open rtene onpetnea oke ntahmOS

areca ea eat ae

=

a lee ae net ee er eet eee or eas
3 é arene oe a5 a Bac os Bae arate

aswel ite a

= aE rae Sree Sea Sr

5 ol a a

wl he

BUSOU seta ale,

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 

236 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Bay, a most dangerous place; but thanks to providence,
we sustained no injury, except being forced round the
Land’s End, which was to us a serious misfortune, being
utterly unable to beat back into the English channel, our
men being worn out with illness and exertion, and our
stores of every kind nearly exhausted.

No Pilot would venture to stay on board: The Chap-
man having no poop, looked so unlike an Indiaman, that she
was taken for an American, and we poor forlorn creatures
set down at once as prisoners. “Why don’t you release
those women,” said they, “We will have nothing to do
with you, we know better.” We found afterwards that
although the preliminaries of peace had been some time
signed, no account of the important event had reached this
remote spot. Captain Walker now proposed proceeding
to Milford Haven to refit, but the indraught, as it is called,
having brought us off Lundy, he changed his resolution
and took a pilot on board for King road, where we anchored
at 7 A.M. on the 7th February 1783.

Tue Enp oF THE First Partrs
_* ™~
perree aire sa mutans Nine etosa a —,
ecesyionatr ie) eh ior ae ined aad
eon ea
FR rs yeaa a Ss " :
wl Zier eaaaaman ner . 3

ch
ee tet!

aaa SET Th eee
a acer erm eat aia el
aoiprar a alanis
Pirate ETO Tete

PART SECOND

Containing an Abstract of the
Author’s Three Subsequent
Voyages to IndiaEr ie ced

sc rnise

4

iswae we

 

 

 

Letter I

TO MRS. L

 

Blackheath, 12th February, 1815.
My Dear Mapam,

The interest which you are pleased to take in my
welfare, and the kind inquiries you make respecting the
voyages I have performed since my first memorable one,
induce me to offer you a simple statement of facts relative
to them; though to accomplish this even in the briefest
manner, some circumstances must be revealed which I
would rather consign to oblivion, and some wounds must
be re-opened, which time has mollified, if not healed.—
The manuscript submitted to your perusal, closes with an
account of my arrival in England, and thus ended my first
eventful visit to India; a period which according to my own
estimation, had comprized a whole life of suffering and
anxiety, and dissolved for ever the strongest tie the human
heart can form for itself; a period in which physical and
moral evils had alike combined to inflict whatever can
wound the heart to its inmost core, and destroy that con-
fidence in our fellow creatures, without which the world
seems indeed “a howling wilderness,” peopled with terrific
monsters, each prowling either by violence or fraud for his
defenceless prey.

Happily for me gentler beings had blended in my path
their benign influences; my sorrows had been cheered and
239

é
te

he

ey
aa

2
a
oat a
Peapa }
poe Id
. , a
Pree
es
tr.
Ka eit
Pict J
7
frie
oatSars Peer oes Pact athe

a ato es Ta based
5 Pe nae Pe oie GS SO Re Tannen

Fen Sorte 3

Heke aa ea
Aes Cal ear Lene TR

FOr Mae een
(ho) .

WL ry
PUR ea
oo

  

240 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

consoled by many. I was still young, and with buoyant
spirits relieved in some degree from their late severe pres-
sure, hailed my native land; yet a sigh of regret would
mingle with my joyful anticipations, at quitting the society
wherein, though assailed by tempestuous winds and moun-
tainous seas, I had so frequently enjoyed, ‘““The feast of
reason and the flow of soul’”’ amidst congenial minds.

For ever blest be the moment when I quitted the
Valentine; from that circumstance arose a friendship which
has constituted one of the sweetest enjoyments of my life,
and which still remains unbroken, though my friend and I
seldom meet; but her letters are invaluable. Few possess
such epistolary talents: they have been my chief solace and
consolation in distress; but to proceed: Mrs. Irwin, her
little boy and myself went on to town, where a dreadful
shock awaited me; my dear mother was no more; the tie
to which a daughter most fondly clings was rent asunder;
tho’ I had still a father and two most affectionate sisters
remaining, it was long ere I could justly appreciate their
worth, or draw consolation from their society. For nearly
a whole year I laboured under very severe indisposition,
and incurred great expence for medical attendance, not less
than £150. I was several times considered in imminent
danger; Mrs. Irwin too was long, after her arrival, affected
with the most distressing nervous debility. All this is not
to be wondered at, for during the passage from St. Helena,
both of us were in an infirm state, and our health had
suffered much from the circumstances in which we were
placed. It is true we experienced all possible relief from
the kindness of those around us, whom we daily beheld
subjected to privations and exertions the most trying, yet
ever affording us comfort and attention. In each benevolentPeed rae ey

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 241

act Captain Walker was amply assisted by Mr. Gooch, and
the Surgeon Mr. Crowfoot, a most worthy and scientific
young man, to whose skill I was probably more indebted
for the prolongation of a precarious existence, than I was
aware of at the time. My health being in some measure
restored, I tried various plans in pursuit of independence;
but none seemed to promise success; my friends wished
me to remain at home; but Calcutta appeared the most
likely theatre of exertion; and you cannot wonder that my
heart warmed towards a place, where I had met such friend-
ship and generosity, and where so much general encourage-
ment was given to the efforts of respectable individuals.
I still bore in mind the offer which had been made to me
in Bengal, and determined to pursue this plan; and having
become acquainted with a Miss Hicks, a young woman of
the strictest integrity, and who possessed many valuable
qualifications, I engaged her to accompany me as an assist-
ant. Captain Walker was about to proceed to Bombay, in
command of the Lord Camden, and offered me a passage on
very moderate terms, provided I took charge of four ladies,
who wished to have a protectress during the voyage. Being
desirous of seeing Bombay, I felt little reluctance to comply,
especially as my friend Mr. Gooch held the same station
in the Camden which he had, so meritoriously filled, in
the Chapman. The passage to be sure, would be rather
circuitous, but in a fine new ship, navigated by persons of
whose nautical abilities I had such indubitable proofs, that
appeared of little moment. The prospect of strengthening
my connections in India, influenced me still further. Hav-
ing therefore arranged my plans on a general ground, allow-
ing for the deviations which in such a case as mine, might be
allowed to arise from circumstances, I embarked on the

RN eo
.

-
—

ta

=

iene Fe
sors,

ee
D

aeig wee pes
et
Sar ce eat oe Ser

   
  
 
    
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
  
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
   
  

A

Satie he fs

mies a ee ein bas ate tee oh ase > is = re rat ~

ee tio , nen Stee =

Me Gs
Seneca

eG pean:

ret

eee cesde Ne ms

Feat ee ae Oe

Se ate er ace cE eee re or ores rT er a

24 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Lord Camden, and sailed from the Downs for India, on the
17th March 1784.—Here let me pause for the present;
I will soon resume my pen.
Tam &c.
E. F.ance neat errno

Letter II

TO MRS. L

 

15th February, 1815.
My Dear Mapam,

For some days we had rather boisterous weather,
but this subsided as we approached the Canary Islands,
where (to my great mortification) we did not stop.—On
the third of April had a view of the peak of Teneriffe
which is said to be 2,000 feet high, perpendicularly. It
must have been formerly a considerable Volcano; so lately
as the year 1704 there was an irruption from it which did
immense damage. On the 1oth we passed the Cape de-
Verd Islands, but to my regret without touching at any;
for curiosity was ever with me a predominant feeling. The
Island of Fogo has a Volcano, which sometimes flames out
in a terrible manner, and discharges pumice stones to a
great distance. The weather at this time was intensely
hot, but we had plenty of apples on board, which afforded
great refreshment; and soon after they were finished, we
spoke a Danish ship, whose captain made the ladies a hand-
some present of oranges and pine apples. It is not easy
for you, my dear madam, to conceive the importance of
such accommodations: but those who have been many
weeks, perhaps months, shut up in a floating prison, without
the power of procuring refreshments which even health
demands, will be well aware of their value-—At length the

trade winds visited us, ‘‘and bore healing on their wings;”
243

porphin nae enditega theres ons = whe ite TS,
Y 7 mtn ein Bip pene ore err ett

to had ee oh ea
* 8

¥

as Se
(WAG 3 yiSle era aia Pes
gation) S CTA cme peter? ‘a

Se aE Pry rare et eees rt) er) ee

5 rf ei Fae) 7 Someta srk Fane
= rj Pa pea me ates ~ =e eA eP
ree ss ES Lak wie ae

   

244 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

we passed the Tropic of Capricorn very pleasantly, but soon
afterwards a change took place: such are the vicissitudes
of a sea life. I have not yet mentioned the names of the
ladies who accompanied me, there were Mrs. Pemberton,
and Misses Turner, Bellas, and Fisher, who with Miss
Hicks and myself occupied two thirds of the roundhouse;
and I note it as rather a singular circumstance, that we were
only five times on deck during the passage, which was
owing to a previous arrangement between the Captain and
me, to guard against imprudent attachments, which are
more easily formed than broken; and I am happy to say
the plan succeeded to our wish—About this time, Captain
Walker fell dangerously ill, but fortunately recovered
before the 8th of June, when the birth day of Miss Ludlow,
a Bristol lady, who subsequently became Mrs. Walker,
was celebrated in high style: all the ship’s company had
a dinner of fresh provisions, and we sat down to a most
sumptuous repast, vegetables and fruit having been pro-
vided in England, and salad raised purposely for the
occasion.

We were now going at the rate of eight knots an hour,
off the Cape, with a heavy swell; but the young folks,
nevertheless, so earnestly solicited for a dance, that the
Captain could not refuse; so all the furniture being removed
out of the cuddy, I led off, by particular request; but had
only gone down one couple, when a tremendous Jee lurch
put us all in confusion. I declined standing up again, but
the rest during three or four hours, tumbled about in the
prettiest manner possible, and when no longer able to dance,
made themselves amends by singing and laughing; no
serious accident happened to any one, and the evening
concluded very agreeably.oh Ae a

 

VOErry?

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 245

On the 11th June we struck soundings at 7 a.m. off
Cape L’Aguillas, this exactly confirmed Capt. Walker’s
observations, and was matter of greater rejoicing to me,
than can be imagined by persons who were never brought
into danger, by the ignorance or inattention of those
intrusted with the command. The next day we shipped
so many seas from the heavy land-swell, as to extinguish
the fire; we were therefore constrained to put up with
a cold dinner: however our good Captain, ever provident,
produced a fine round of beef, preserved by Hoffmann,
which well supplied the deficiency.

On the 24th June, we anchored in the Bay of Johanna,
one of the African Isles to the northward of Madagascar.
It is a fertile little spot. We here met with plenty of
refreshments and very cheap. The oranges are remarkably
fine: I took a good quantity of them: their beef is pretty
good: Captain Walker purchased several bullocks for the
ship’s use and to supply our table. The inhabitants are very
civil, but are said to be the greatest thieves in existence.
We were much amused with the high titles assumed by
them. The Prince of Wales honoured us with his company
at breakfast, after which Mr. Lewin * one of our passengers,
took him down to his cabin, where having a number of
knick-knacks, he requested his royal highness to make
choice of some article to keep in remembrance of him;
when to Mr. L’s astonishment he fixed on a large mahogany
book-case, which occupied one side of the cabin; and on
being told that could not be spared, went away in high
displeasure, refusing to accept any thing else. The Duke
of Buccleugh washed our linen. H.R.H. the Duke of York
officiated as boatman, and a boy of fourteen, who sold us
some fruit, introduced himself as Earl of Mansfield. They

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246 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

seem very proud of these titles—We all went on shore, and
while those who were able to walk, rambled about to view
the country, which they described as very delightful, I
awaited their return in a thatched building erected for
the accommodation of strangers. We were careful to return
before sun-set, the night air being reckoned very pernicious
to Europeans.—These people are almost constantly at war
with those of the adjacent Isles. Being in great want of
gunpowder, they prevailed on Captain Walker to give them
the quantity that would have been expended in the cus-
tomary salutes.

On the 2nd July we left Johanna, with a pleasant breeze,
but were soon driven back and experienced great fatigue
for many days, from a heavy rolling sea, but on the 2oth,
at day break, we saw Old-woman’s Island, and at 11 a.m.
cast anchor at Bombay. An alarming accident happened
while saluting the Fort; the gunner’s mate reloaded one of
the guns without having properly cleansed it, in consequence
of which he was blown off into the water. Never did I
behold a more shocking sight. The poor creature’s face
was covered with blood, yet he swam like a fish till a
boat reached him. Thank God he escaped with some
slight hurts, and to my surprize was upon deck next
day.

On the 21st we went on shore with Mr. Coggan the
Naval store-keeper, who was Miss Turner’s brother-in-law.
We landed in the dock-yard, where the many fine ships
building and repairing with the number of Europeans
walking about, almost persuaded me, I was at home, till
the dress and dark complexion of the workmen destroyed
the pleasing illusion—Mrs. Coggan received me very kindly,
and by her hospitable treatment, rendered my stay atORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 247

Bombay as agreeable as possible. On Saturday the 24th
we received a visit from the Governor (Mr. Boddam) which
I find is to be considered as a great compliment. We went
to church, on the 25th, and in the evening sat up to receive
company as also the two following evenings, a tiresome
ceremony to me who detest parade and was merely a
traveller; but Mrs. Coggan assured me it would be an
affront to the settlement if I submitted not to the established
custom. The like usage formerly prevailed in Bengal, but
is now abolished. On the 29th we went to pay our respects
to the Governor at Pere// his country seat, a delightful place
and a charming ride to it. Indeed all the environs are
beautiful; in this respect it has greatly the advantage of
Calcutta; but the town itself is far inferior. They have a
handsome church and a good assembly-room, where they
dance all the year round.

We dined one day at Mr. Nesbit’s, chief of the Marine,
who gave us a repast in the true o/d Indian style. “The
tables they groaned with the weight of the feast.” We had
every joint of a calf on the table at once; nearly half a
Bengal sheep; several large dishes of fish; boiled and
roasted turkies, a ham, a kid, tongue, fowls, and a long
train of et ceteras. The heat was excessive, the hour two,
and we were thirty in company, in a lower roomed house, so
you may conceive what sensations such a prodigious dinner
would produce. It is however a fact that they ate with
great appetite and perseverance, to my astonishment, who
could scarcely touch a morsel.

On the ist August, the Camden being ordered to
Madras without any prospect of proceeding from thence to
Bengal, Captain Walker secured a passage for Miss Hicks
and myself on the Nottingham, Captain Curtis, who offeredSeca ae

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248 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

us the best accommodations and refused to accept of any
remuneration. He afterwards disposed of his ship, but
under the express stipulation that we should retain our

cabin. I dined on the 8th at Mr. D. Scott’s with our fellow

passengers Mr. and Mrs. Lewin; and a very agreeable day
we passed, the whole of the cuddy passengers being invited,
so that we sat down once more together, assuredly for the
last time. On the 23d I dined with Miss Bellas at her
uncle’s gardens where I met with a most cordial reception,
and was introduced to Captain Christie whom she married
before I quitted the settlement; and alas! I must add
survived her marriage only thirteen weeks. She died, as I
afterwards heard, of a confirmed liver complaint. Her
health was very bad during the whole passage; for on the
least motion she constantly became sea-sick, and never over-
came it: she was a most amiable young woman and
generally beloved. I shall ever cherish her memory with
affection. On the 25th Captain Curtis introduced the
new Commander Captain Ross to me, and made as many
apologies for quitting the ship, as if he had been account-
able to me for his conduct. “But however” said he “go
when you will, I will see you safe on board and clear of the
Reef,” which is a ridge of rocks at the entrance of Bombay
harbour. This promise he performed on the 4th September,
when having taken leave of our friends, he accompanied us
on board the Lowisa, for so was the Nottingham named in
honour of the new owner’s wife. He staid until seven in
the evening, and then went on shore with the Pilot; first
calling up all his late servants, whom he charged to pay me
the same attention as if he were present. I shall ever
esteem him. Our friendship continued unabated while I
remained in India; he afterwards commanded the SwallowAA es

ere: “Las

 

 

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 249

Packet, and mine was the first and the last house he entered
on each voyage: since my return home I have seldom seen
him, but that alters not my sentiments.—It was natural that
I should quit Bombay with favourable impressions. I had
been treated with much kindness and mixed with the first
society on the Island: I refer you to other travellers for
descriptions, observing only that provisions of all kinds are
good, but rather dear, except fish, which is here in high
perfection and very plentiful.

On the 15th September we anchored in Anjengo roads,
to take in coir rope and cables for which this is the great
mart. They are fabricated of the outer rind of the cocoa-
nut, whose quality is such that the salt water nourishes it,
and it possesses also an elasticity which enables it to con-
tract or dilate itself, in proportion to the strain on it. This
property is peculiarly useful in these seas, where squalls
frequently come on with frightful violence and rapidity, and
the preservation of an anchor is an object of importance.
The surf runs very high here, and is at times extremely
dangerous. Captain Ross brought off an invitation from
Mr. Hutchinson the chief, to dine with him; but no one
chose to venture on shore. I have not forgotten the fate
of Mrs. Blomer, who was drowned some years ago with
seven others in attempting to land on the beach.

Here is a pretty strong Fort on the sea side. Every one
who went on shore spoke with rapture of the country.
The vicinity of the great chain of mountains which separates
the coast of Malabar from that of Coromandel, and which
are said to be the highest in the world, (the Alps and Andes
excepted) gives an awful termination to the prospect. The
water is here so indifferent that few Europeans attempt to
drink it. Formerly Anjengo was famous throughout India

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250 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

for its manufactures of long-cloth and stockings, but these
have fallen to decay. We left this dangerous place on the
22nd; the wind several times blew so strong, we had great
apprehensions of being driven on shore; and a very narrow
escape we certainly had; for on examining the anchor, only
one fluke was found remaining; the other must have been
so nearly broke by the strain on it, that it would not
bear heaving up. Our passage was remarkably tedious,
though we had a pleasant man in command, who kept an
exceeding good table, but not expecting to be more than
five or six weeks at sea, instead of ¢we/ve, our stock of fresh
provisions was quite exhausted long ere we reached Cal-
cutta, and only distilled water to drink. On the 27th
November we arrived, and to my great surprise after all that
had been said against the probability of such an event taking
place, found the Camden had been some time in the river.
Mr. Baldwin the chief officer died soon after, and my friend
Mr. Gooch succeeded him. In this situation he remained
for several voyages, with Captain Dance till he obtained
the command of the Lushington, and J had frequently the
pleasure of seeing him during my residence in Bengal.
Being now about to enter on a new scene, I will take leave
for the present and remain,

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Blackheath, 19th February, 1815.
My pear Mapa,

At Calcutta I met with great kindness from many
whom I had formerly known, and who now appeared
desirous of forwarding any plan, I might adopt. At
length with the approbation of Captain Walker, and
several other friends, I determined on placing Miss Hicks
in business as a milliner. It was agreed that my name
should not appear, although I retained in my own hands
the entire management of the concern, allowing Miss
H. one third of the profits. Mr. Berry purser of the
Camden had the goodness to open a set of books, and to give
me every necessary instruction how to keep them in proper
order, which afterwards proved very advantageous in the
prosecution of my concerns. You are aware how many diffi-
culties both from within and without must have opposed
themselves to this design, and how much even the same
feeling operated in contrary directions; at least, if the wish
for independence may be termed pride, to which it is
certainly allied. Soon after, a proposal was made me to
engage in a seminary for young ladies, on so liberal a plan,
that I have since frequently, regretted not having complied
with the solicitations of my friends; but I had in fact gone

rather too far to recede, having made several large purchases,
251

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Se pee!

Sa a et

252 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

which could not be disposed of suddenly but at consider-
able loss. Within four months after our arrival, Miss
Hicks married Mr. Lacey; “ and the following Christmas
lay in of a fine boy, but unfortunately lost him at the end of
six weeks; after which her health declined so fast, as to
render it absolutely necessary that she should proceed to
Europe. I took that opportunity of sending home for
education, a natural child of my husband’s, whose birth
had caused me bitter affliction; yet I could not abandon
him, though he was deserted by his natural protector.
They accordingly embarked on the 5th of September 1786,
on the Severn Packet Captain Kidd, with every prospect of
a favourable passage; but on the oth, owing to the rapidity
of the current, the vessel struck on a sand, called the Broken
Ground, just below Ingellee, and every European on board
unhappily perished, except the second officer in whose arms
the poor little boy expired; but Mrs. Lacey supported
herself in the fore chains with exemplary fortitude, till a
tremendous sea broke over them, and he saw her no more,
but by great exertion reached the shore on a broken spar.
I felt her loss severely, for she possessed a mind and spirit
that would have graced any station.

After this melancholy event I was compelled to conduct
business in my own name, but on a more extensive scale,
and succeeded tolerably well, till the unlucky year 1788,
when such immense investments were brought out, that
nearly all concerned in that branch of commerce, were
involved in one common ruin. Yielding to the storm, for
I had large consignments which I was compelled to receive,
my brother having become security for them at home, I
solicited and obtained the indulgence of my creditors for
eighteen months under four trustees, Messrs. Fairlie, Col-ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 253

vin, Child, and Moscrop, whose names were sufficient to
sanction any Concern; and such was the confidence reposed
in my integrity, that every thing remained in my own hands
as formerly. Never, I am proud to say, was that confidence
abused; pardon the seeming vanity of this assertion; in
justice to my own character, I must say thus much, and can
boldly appeal to those who are best acquainted with the
whole transaction for the truth of my statement. Having
received several consignments from my kind friends at
home, which sold to great advantage, and various other
means suggesting themselves, wherein I was benevolently
assisted by many who saw and compassionated my arduous
struggles after independence, I succeeded in settling either
in money or goods, every claim on me, and again became
possessed of a little property; when in the beginning of
1794, anxiety to see my dear friends, led me to resolve on
returning once more to Europe. I must here mention
what operated as a strong encouragement to prosecute the
plan immediately. In May 1791 Mr. Benjamin Lacey
brother of my lamented friend’s husband came to Bengal,
bringing out a small investment for me. I received him
into my family, and altho’ only nineteen years of age, he
evinced such abilities, that I soon obtained a situation for
him, where he conducted himself so much to the satisfaction
of his employers, as to be intrusted with confidential com-
missions to Madras and elsewhere, which he executed with
judgment and integrity. This young man happening to
be in Calcutta, I embraced the opportunity of leaving to
him the management of my concerns. As a proof that my
confidence was not misplaced, allow me here to notice, that
altho’ my stock and bills were delivered over to him without
inventory, or engagement on his part when I left India, he

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254 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

in the course of eleven days after, transmitted regular
accounts of the whole, and where placed, making himself
answerable for the proceeds in the strongest manner; so
that had we both died, my friends would have found no
difficulty in claiming my effects. Having by his assistance
laid in a small investment, I embarked on the 25th March
on board the American ship Henry, Captain Jacob Crownin-
shield, bound for Ostend; and on the 29th the pilot quitted
us. I found the Henry a snug little vessel, Capt. C. a well
behaved man, and his officers, though not of polished
manners, yet in their way disposed to offer me every
attention that could render the passage agreeable. I
suffered at times from the heat, but on the whole enjoyed
better health than during my former voyage. Having only
one passenger on board besides myself, but little occurred
to relieve the monotony of a sea life: I frequently played
chess, and was almost constantly beaten. Cards and back-
gammon had their turn, but I grew tired of all; till at
length, on the 2nd July we anchored off St. Helena.

I went on shore in the afternoon and learnt with some
vexation that a large fleet sailed only the day before. I
wished to have written, specially as we were not bound
direct to England. Many changes had happened in this
curious little Island, during my twelve years absence.
Few recollected me; but Captain Wall of the Buccleugh
formerly chief officer of the Valentine, behaved with the
greatest attention,—TI shall ever acknowledge his kindness.
Fresh provisions were very scarce, a drought had prevailed
until this season for four years, and it would require three
good seasons to repair the damage sustained, by their stock
perishing for want of water—A circumstance happened
during our stay, the like of which was not remembered by

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pes SeerORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 255

the oldest inhabitant, though from the appearance of the
place, one would conclude such events were common: a
large fragment of rock, detached by the moisture, fell from
the side of Ladder Hill, on a small out-house at the upper
end of the valley; in which two men were sleeping in
separate beds. The stone broke thro’ the top and lodged
between them, the master of the house was suffocated, it is
supposed, by the rubbish, as no bruises were found on his
body; the other man forced his way through, and gave the
alarm, but not time enough to save his companion. This
accident has caused many to tremble for their safety, since
all the way up the valley, houses are built under similar
projections, and will some time or other probably experience
the same fate. Among the Alps such things are common.
An unpleasant affair also occurred to me. JI had, when
last here, given a girl who had attended me from Calcutta,
and behaved very ill, to Mrs. Mason, with whom I boarded,
under a promise that she should not be sold, consequently
no slave paper passed. Mr. Mason, however, in defiance
of this prohibition, disposed of her for £10. This act
militating against the established regulations, advantage
was taken of my return to the Island, to call upon me as
the original offender, not only for that sum, but a demand
was made of £60 more, to pay the woman’s passage back to
Bengal with her two children!!! After every effort, I
could only obtain a mitigation of £10, being forced to draw
on my brother Preston at sixty days sight in favour of the
Court of Directors, for £60, a sum that I could ill afford to
lose, but the strong hand of power left me no alternative.*’
On the 6th July we quitted St. Helena, and on the 11th
anchored off Ascension. Our Captain and the gentlemen
went on shore to look at the Island. The following

   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 

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256 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

remarks I extract from his journal. “The soil near the
sea, appears dry and barren in the extreme, like cinders
from a fire; indeed the whole Island bears evident marks
of the former existence of volcanoes, several craters still
appearing on the hills; perhaps it owes its origin to some
great convulsion of nature, as I am persuaded does St.
Helena: altho’ the sea coast presents a dreary view, yet
on walking farther the prospect becomes enchanting; a
most delightful verdure covers the smaller hills, and the
vallies; and no doubt they afford plenty of water, tho’
not being very well, I was too much fatigued to examine.
The 2nd officer saw five or six goats, but could not get
near enough to fire at them.”

Numbers of man-of-war birds and eggs were taken,
which proved to be good eating; they likewise caught the
finest turtle I ever saw, weighing near 4oolbs., but by an act
of unpardonable negligence in people so situated, it was
suffered to walk overboard in the night. We had however
the good luck to catch a fine albercuore which weighed
near 100lbs., its flesh when roasted resembled veal; we
were fortunate in having an excellent cook on board, who
really made the most of our scanty provisions. On the 3rd
of August, three large ships hove in sight, one of which bore
down towards us and fired several guns to bring us to.
They sent a boat on board with orders for our Captain to
attend the commander; he came back, to our great joy, in
about half an hour, having been treated with much civility
by the French Captain. It was now we heard the distress-
ing news of Ostend being in the hands of the French;
indeed they boasted of having gained the advantage every
where, except in the West Indies—These were three
frigates mounting from 28 to 32 guns, they had been 20eae Oe

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 257

days, from Brest and had taken 22 prizes. We had been
assured by Captain Wall, that the French dared not shew
their noses in the channel, but I with sorrow now witnessed
the contrary, not on my own account, being safe enough on
board an American; but Captain C. informed me, there
were more than 200 English prisoners on board those ships.
—He now acquainted me with his determination to pro-
ceed to America, and very politely offered me a passage,
that I might witness the disposal of my property, which I
of course declined, not feeling the least desire to prolong my
voyage. So having arranged my affairs in the best manner
possible under existing circumstances, I took a final leave
of the Henry on the 4th September, and landed with my
baggage at Cowes in the Isle of Wight.—From this place I
soon reached London; pleased as I went, to behold scenes
from which I had been so many years banished, and
anticipating the delight with which my dear father would
receive his long absent child. Alas! I was doomed to be-
hold him no more. He expired only four months before my
arrival—The remainder of my family I had the happiness of
finding in perfect health—The property sent to America
came to a tolerable market, but Captain Crowninshield
instead of making the returns in cash, sent a ship called the
Minerva, with his younger brother Richard Crowninshield
in command of her, which ship it was proposed that I should
take out to India under certain conditions. She was a fine
new vessel of about 300 tons burthen; I had her coppered,
and proposed her first making a voyage to America, and on
her return sailing for Bengal about Christmas: But when
completely fitted for sea, with a picked cargo on board for
Boston, she took fire by the bursting of a bottle of aquafortis,
which had been negligently stowed among other goods, and

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Wicd a4

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

 

258 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

though immediately scuttled and every precaution taken,
sustained material damage. This involved me in a series of
misfortunes. Mr. P. Wynne who had shipped to the
amount of £428 on the Minerva, by mere accident dis-
covered that, contrary to the general opinion, the Captain
was responsible for all goods committed to his charge under
regular bills of lading; and accordingly commenced an
action against him, in which he was successful, the whole
debt and costs near £600 falling on the Captain, and from
his inability, on me: this decision caused a change in the
tenor of bills of lading, which now contain clauses against
fire and several other casualties, whereas before “‘the
dangers of the seas” were alone excepted. Thus did my
loss operate to the advantage of others. To prevent the
total wreck of my little property, I was compelled to proceed
immediately on the original plan, as affording the only
chance of attaining independence, and ultimately securing
a home in my native country.

Having resolved never again to travel alone, I engaged
a Miss Tripler as a companion, for two years, at £30 per
annum; but had soon cause to regret the agreement. A
proposal being made by my dearest friend Mrs Irwin to
take out a young lady, who had been educated in England,
and was going to rejoin her friends in Bengal, I felt no
disposition to refuse, having frequently seen Miss Rogers
and knowing her to be a most amiable little girl; besides
as I had a piano-forte, and a pair of globes with me, and a
good collection of books, I was pleased with the idea of
contributing to her improvement, and amusing myself at the
same time—The ship being obliged to touch at Guernsey,
I determined to join her there; so, on the 17th July sheORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 259

sailed for that place. Miss Tripler and my Bengal servant
proceeding on her, as the most saving plan. Here let me
pause, reserving the account of my third voyage for another
letter.

I remain truly your’s

E. F.

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Letter IV

 
 
   
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    
  

 

TO MRS. L

Blackheath, 24th February, 1815.
My Dear Mapam,

On Sunday the 2nd August 1795 at 5 a.m. Miss
Rogers and myself, accompanied by Captain Richard
Crowninshield quitted London for Southampton, from
whence the packets sail for Guernsey. I did not leave
my sister and nieces without deep regret; they were always
very dear to me, but now, having lost my parents, the tie
was drawn still closer; abstracted from this consideration,
I rather rejoiced at quitting England, as the whole time of
my stay had been imbittered by a succession of losses and
disappointments, arising partly from my individual mis-
fortune respecting the ship, and partly from the general
state of commerce at this inauspicious period. Alas! in
the number of wretched Emigrants whom I saw crowding
the port of Southampton, I felt that I had but too many
fellow-sufferers, and it was easy to read in many a sorrowful
countenance that, “the times were out of joint.”

On arriving there, we were advised to go on by land to
Lymington, and embark from thence; this gave me an
opportunity of passing a few hours at Newtown Park, a
short mile from Lymington, the residence of Mrs. Irwin’s
sister Mrs. P—n. The house and grounds are strikingly
beautiful, and an Observatory at the top of the former,

commands an extensive view over the Isle of Wight, and
260lp ee a a TOL a

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 261

great part of the channel; and Mrs. P.—n assured me, that
not long before, she saw from thence near four hundred
vessels sail together. The wind becoming fair, we em-
barked on the $th August, and next evening safely reached
the Mznerva at Guernsey. We found all on board greatly
fatigued, the ship having arrived only the night before,
after a most harrassing passage of eighteen days. What
an escape we had! On the 8th we went on shore; passed
through the market, which appears to be well supplied,
particularly with fruit, vegetables, poultry, and butter; we
took a quantity of the latter, which lasted perfectly good
all the way out. I was pleased with the market people,
they were so remarkably clean and civil. The women wore
bonnets with enormous stiffened crowns, underneath which,
they had becoming laced mobs. Provisions are in general
good and cheap; the fish excellent; such delicious soles I
never tasted any where. We went to church and heard
prayers both in French and English; a dialect of the former
prevails here, but it is a vile jargon, I could scarcely under-
stand one word in ten. This must be a very healthy place;
I saw here a lady who, at the age of ninety-four, had full
possession of her faculties, and I heard there were several
others on the island nearly of the same age. Mr. Tupper,
a gentleman to whom I had a letter, was in his 76th year;
he and his whole family paid Miss Rogers and myself the
greatest attention. I was surprised to see the magnificent
style in which their house was fitted up, the drawing room
stove was of silver, the curtains rich silk, with gilt cornices;
the chimney piece cost eighty pounds, and every other
article corresponding; but even these were trifling, when
compared with the many capital paintings and valuable
prints which adorned every room in the house. I after-DeVere cay ee

Qa SRT en

PTT aCe ad Wai Yeote Thad Vib attr)
J Oe ire! Oh OULD yo

    
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

262 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

wards found that the prevailing taste with the wealthy here,
is for expensive houses; for the roads are so bad and steep,
that single horse chaises are the only carriages in use. On
the 17th August, Mr. J. Tupper came by appointment to
shew us the Island, of which we made almost the tour.
The lands are highly cultivated, but such roads I never saw;
they are barely wide enough to admit a chaise; fortunately
we met only one, which backed for us to pass. I admire
the exact manner in which the hedges are kept, they add
great beauty to the prospect. I have seldom seen more
picturesque views; the land and sea vallies are particularly
striking. Their parties, though elegant, are by no means
expensive; for liquors are duty free, and the best wines do
not cost more than 16s. per dozen, except claret, which is
at from 25 to 28s. The hospitality with which we were all
treated by this worthy family, excited the most grateful
emotions; and I bade them adieu with sincere regret.

I am yours truly,

E. F.

La eae eee aE

ees ee eon a teeter eee ere
pa PRP RIC LS akin oa S eeLetter V

Blackheath, 25th February, 1815.
My pear Mapam,

We were a pretty large party on board; Mr. Camp-
bell, fresh from the Highlands of Scotland, on whom
the officers were continually playing their jokes; Mr.
Smith, a youth going to the Madeiras, and Mr. Regail,
who was one of the most interesting young men I ever
met with: his manners were elegant, his mind highly
polished, and his disposition placid and benevolent; but
he appeared bending beneath a deep dejection; he never
joined in conversation, if it were gay; he ate no more than
barely sufficed nature, and tho’ from politeness and native
suavity, he never refused to join our evening parties at cards,
yet his depression was visible even in the moments of
amusement. He had been brought up in Russia, and had,
for his age (which could not be more than 24) seen much
of the world, and evidently mixed in the first society, and
I apprehend some singular blight had happened in his
fortunes. .

On the 7th September we landed at Funchall, the
Capital of Madeira. I was exceedingly delighted with our
approach to the Island: the town is built on rising ground,
and as you draw near to it, appears imposing and mag-
nificent, having several churches and convents. Behind the
town the ground rises abruptly into steep hills, covered with
vineyards, and ornamented with pleasure houses, at once

exhibiting the appearance of prosperity and cultivation, and
263

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264 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

the charms of picturesque and romantic scenery—A Mr.
L.— to whom I had letters, went with us to a Hotel; for
unfortunately his lady being in England, he could not en-
tertain us at his own house. Living in this manner was
very expensive and disagreeable also, we paid §s. each for
dinner, exclusive of wine; and neither the waiter, nor any
other servant, understood a word of English, or any other
language we could speak. It was only with the landlady
we could have any communication. We found Funchall
much less beautiful than its first appearance promised; the
streets were ill paved, narrow, dirty and solitary; but the
great church is a handsome building, and the hospital a
very excellent one, before which is a fine fountain, which
is always a refreshing sight in a country like this. The
American Consul visited us the next morning, and invited
us to his country house, for which we sat out at 5 o’clock.
Miss R—s and I were in silk net hammocks, slung upon
poles, and each carried by two men, who went at a great
rate, considering the road lay up a steep hill; this is the
only mode of conveyance, except riding on horse back, as
no wheel carriages can be used in a country so hilly—They
employ a kind of dray or sledge drawn by oxen to transport
goods.

We found a large party assembled; the lady of the
house, a pleasant Irish gentlewoman, had all the frankness
and hospitality of her country, and with her husband, a
most amiable and companionable man, made us quickly
forget we were strangers. Even the Portuguese ladies,
seemed familiar with us, tho’ unluckily we could not con-
verse with them. We had a ball at night, but the weather
being too warm for dancing, we exchanged it for whist. I
cannot help observing here, how frequently people whoORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 265

travel, will find an advantage in knowing some thing of
this game, as they may sit down with persons of different
nations and languages and enjoy with them an amusement,
that for the time, admits of an interchange of ideas and
facilitates good-will, even where conversation is denied.
We sat down above thirty to an elegant supper; the grapes
I found delicious here, but the season for other fruits was
over. The vineyards are tended with unusual care; the
grapes of which wine is made, are not suffered to ripen in
the sun, which they told me is the reason of the superior
flavour in Madeira wine. The Consul’s house was most
delightfully situated; it overlooked the whole town of
Funchall, the surrounding country, and the wide spreading
ocean; it had a beautiful garden, which produced abundance
of peaches, apricots, quinces, apples, pears, walnuts, bananas,
guavas, and pine-apples, and behind rose a fine grove of
pine trees. I quitted this paradise with regret, and found
my ride down-hill very fatiguing and disagreeable.

We staid here till the 21st, and by means of our first
friend, spent several pleasant days, and gay evenings, but
the weather was so intolerably hot, and the travelling so
disagreeable, that if I had not been detained by business, I
would much rather have passed my time on board. One
day we went with the American Consul to visit a Convent
of Ursulines; we found the Chapel door open, but were
not suffered to pass the threshold: the nuns were very
chatty, and like most ignorant persons, exceedingly curious,
asking a hundred ridiculous questions. How very differ-
ently do human beings pass the time allotted them in this
probationary existence! Surely, to consume it in supine
indolence or “vain repetitions” can never render us more
acceptable to Him, who is the fountain of light and know-

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266 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

ledge. We ate some preserved peaches with them, which
the Consul paid for, and then took our leave; but were
forced to submit to a salute from the sisters, which we
would gladly have dispensed with, for they all took an
enormous quantity of snuff. These are the only nuns I
ever saw who do not conceal their hair. On leaving these
pious ladies, we went to Golgotha, or the chapel of skulls,
(as it is called) being entirely lined with skulls and other
human bones. What an idea!

We drank tea the same day, with Signor Esmerado,
whose large house and extensive grounds once belonged to
the Jesuits. This is one of the richest families in the
Island; the display of plate surprised me; the tea tray was
the largest I ever saw, and of massive silver; wine and
sweetmeats, were served in the same costly style. After
tea there were several minuets danced; they with difficulty
suffered us to depart, and were the means of introducing
us to another pleasant evening party, where the lady of the
house played remarkably well on the piano-forte, and sung
in a style of superior excellence.

One day we went on horse-back, to visit the church of
Nossa Senhora de la Monte, (our Lady of the Mount) about
three miles from Funchall, upon a very high ground which
must have cost a large sum in building. The ascent to it,
is at least by a hundred steps. The church is not large, but
richly ornamented: there is a wonder-working image of the
virgin, in a chrystal shrine, very small, not more than two
feet high, it looks exactly like a doll; but her little ladyship,
however insignificant her appearance, had more votaries
than any other saint on the Island. Here we saw some
paintings, which considered as the work of a self-taught
Genius, (and I was assured this was a fact) had extraordi-hue Faw eal

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 267

nary merit. In this little excursion, I was surprised to see the
diversity of climate exhibited in a short distance; the vin-
tage was over, below; while the grapes around us were like
bullets, and I am told they never completely ripen; we ob-
served the same effect in Mr. Murray’s plantation, half a
mile lower. This gentleman, who was the English Consul,
had laid out above £20,000 in improving a spot, which after
all, will never bring any thing to maturity; yet it is a
most charming place; there are three ranges of gardens, one
above another, the lower are very large and well laid out, on
a level, artificially formed, in the midst of which stands a
good house, but not sufficiently elegant to correspond with
such extensive grounds. In these are several reservoirs,
containing gold and silver fish, which are supplied with
water by small cascades, so as to be kept constantly full:
Nor are Mr. Murray’s improvements confined to his own
estate; the road up to the mount and the wall which
secures it, with many fountains, conduits, and reservoirs,
were made by him. He has also opened many cross-paths,
winding round the hill in the prettiest manner imaginable,
with stone seats, and alcoves, to rest on from time to time;
and has planted the hollows with chestnut trees, entirely at
his own expence. Poor man! he had been obliged by ill
health to abandon his little paradise, and was at this time
in Lisbon. We afterwards called upon the British Vice-
Consul Mr. C k, at his country seat, which was re-
markable for its extensive prospect; we thought him and
Mrs. C. very good kind of people, but were surprized to
find that altho’ the latter was English, she had resided
abroad from infancy, and knew scarcely a hundred words
of her native language.

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268 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

and hospitality at this place, yet were we assured, that the
inhabitants had little enjoyment of society with each other;
that being all engaged in one line of merchandize, the
pursuits of interest, were found to jar with those of good-
fellowship; and that on the whole, Madeira was an un-
pleasant residence, except to the sick, and the way-faring.

I am yours truly

K. F.eB CAe AE AI

 

Letter VI

 

TO MRS. L

Blackheath, 28th February, 1815.
My pear Mapam,

We were much tossed by the equinoctial gales on
quitting Madeira, as might be expected; but on the 23rd
September we obtained a sight of the peak of Teneriffe:
all that day we kept standing in for the land, but to little
purpose, as the mountains are too high to admit of approach,
except ina calm. On the 26th we cast anchor in the road
of Oratavia: the visit-boat came out, and as soon as our
bill of health had been examined, the Captain was permitted
to go on shore. I sent by him a letter which, Mr. P
the American Consul at Madeira, had given me, and
received in reply a most cordial invitation from Mr. and
Mrs. Barry for Miss Rogers and myself, to take up our
abode with them during our stay with which we thankfully
complied in the evening. The appearance of this country,
pleased me much better than Madeira, as it is more culti-
vated and better inhabited: the city of Oratavia constitutes
a fine feature in the beautiful scene. We were received
most kindly by the worthy couple who invited us, and at
whose house we met with the best society in the Island.
I greatly prefer the Spanish ladies to the Portuguese,
finding them more easy in their manners, and much better
educated. Many spoke French and Italian with facility,

and several had been so connected with the English, as to
269

 

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270 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

have attained enough of the language, to be tolerably
intelligible in it: their persons were pleasing, and some
would have been really handsome, but for the presence of
Mrs. Barry, who altho’ in her thirty-fourth year, I thought
the most beautiful woman I ever beheld. She was in
England just before Sir Joshua Reynold’s death, and he
declared repeatedly, that would his health permit him ever
to take another picture, it should be Mrs. Barry’s. Her
height was commanding, with just enough of the enbonpoint
to be agreeable. Dimples have been called “the first of.
the graces.” I never saw a countenance display more of
them; her smile was perfectly fascinating.

I was disappointed in my intention of ascending the
Peak of Teneriffe, the season being too far advanced; and
I was assured by many, that I was quite unequal at any
time to have endured the fatigue. After travelling 15 miles
over loose stones and rugged ascents, you find yourself still
at the foot of the Peak; here it is necessary to remain till
two in the morning, when the task of clambering begins,
over pumice stone and ashes, and should you reach the
top by sunrise, you may esteem yourself very fortunate:
four hours are generally allowed for the ascent, and after
all, should the Peak be enveloped in clouds, which is fre-
quently the case, you have your labour for your pains;
but on a clear day the view is truly sublime; you can
distinctly see the seven Canary Islands; some assert that
both the Continent of Africa and the Island of Madeira
have been seen from hence; but I cannot suppose the
human vision capable of extending so far, tho’ I do not
doubt that both places are comprehended within the
immense horizon such a prodigious height may command.
Having heard a very good account of Santa Cruz, which is2 ea

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 271

between 20 and 30 miles across the Island, we determined
to visit it, little aware of the roads we must encounter.
Ladies here travel on Asses, on which are placed a sort of
armed chair, with cushions and a foot-stool; this plan
appeared to be easy, but we soon found that the roads at
Madeira, were bowling greens compared to these; how the
poor animals that bore us, contrived to keep their legs,
clambering over the rocks that from time to time had
fallen in the path, I know not; the shocks they gave me I
shall never forget. Mr. Barry had provided a cold turkey,
wine &c. for a repast, and when ready for it, we went into
a peasant’s cottage, and dined comfortably, endeavouring
to laugh away our fears and fatigues; the remains of our
meal afforded a feast to the peasants, who live in a most
wretched style, seldom tasting either meat, eggs, or milk:
the mother of the mistress of the cottage was near eighty,
and to see, with what eagerness the poor old creature
watched every morsel we put into our mouths, was really
affecting. Notwithstanding their coarse fare, the common
people here, are a stout, hardy race; fair complexioned,
well featured, and remarkably lively, as we found by our
attendants, for as each animal has a man to guide it, we
were almost stunned by their incessant chatter. Soon after
dinner, we renewed our journey; my animal fell down, but
I was not hurt, and for the next five miles, our road was
easy, and lay over a delightful plain which brought us to
the ancient city of Laguna, the Capital of the Island, which
is tolerably large, well inhabited, and has two good churches,
with several convents; from thence the road to Santa Cruz
lay entirely on the descent, over large stones and fragments
of rock. The jumbling was horrible, and pour surcrott de
malheur, so strong a wind blew from the sea, that my whole

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272 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

strength was scarce sufficient to hold my umbrella; yet I
did not dare give it up, the rays of the sun were so power-
ful, and the reflection from the stones intolerable. I was
at one time so exhausted, that I declared I must give up the
journey, but the creature I rode, carried me on in spite of
me, and stopped not until we arrived at the house of Mr.
R. y in Santa Cruz, who gave us all a hearty welcome.
This gentleman lived in a most delightful situation fronting
the Mole, where notwithstanding our fatigue, we walked
in the evening, when our good host got tipsy for joy, and
with great difficulty allowed ws to retire. Alas! weary as
we were, the musquitoes would scarcely permit us to sleep;
my companion suffered terribly from them.

Santa Cruz is indeed a fine place, and the country
around, well deserves the pen of Mrs. Ratcliffe to celebrate
its cloud-capt mountains, vallies teeming with abundance,
that in the language of Holy Writ, seemed to “Laugh and
sing’ beneath the eye of their majestic mountains; and
here to render every couwp d’oetl complete, the vast Atlantic
occupies the front, and offers its immense world of waters
to our contemplation.

The most curious, perhaps I ought to say the most
énteresting circumstance that happened to me in this ex-
pedition, was the violent passion uur kind entertainer
conceived for me, and which was certainly opened in a
manner perfectly new. “My dare soul, what shall I do to
plase you? Is it fifty pipes of wine you would like? but
why will I talk of wine? you shall have my house, my
garden, all I have in the world! at nine o’clock to-morrow
I will resign every thing up to you, and by J—-s if you'll
consent to marry me, I'll be drunk every day of my life
just for joy.” Irresistible as the last argument was, my¢ Se CoS vn Tuk Sageny Uh
SPR a erat tte ete eterna Cot ental

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 273

heart of adamant withstood it. Poor R y! never did
a kinder heart, a more generous spirit exist, and but for a
fault which indeed proceeded really from the warmth of
his heart, he would have been a most agreeable companion;
he was beloved by every one. Poor man! let me here close
his history, by recording that he was since killed by a
shot in the streets of Santa Cruz, at the time of Lord
Nelson’s attack against it. We returned soon after this
declaration, and found the road present objects of new
beauty, because we were a little more at ease in our con-
veyance, from habit—We found a new guest with Mrs.
Barry, a Mr. Edwards, who was just arrived from Turkey
and attended by a native of that country; he was completely
a citizen of the world, held a commission in the service of
the Grand Signior, had been every where, and seen every
thing; he was elegant, accomplished, and every way agree-
able. Our fellow voyager Mr. Campbell, during all the
time we were at Teneriffe, continued the butt of the
Captain’s jokes, in which others were too ready to join him;
on our return, they persuaded him that his legs were
swelled, which was ever the precursor of mortal disease in
the Island, and the poor fellow submitted to be swathed in
flannel, and dosed with every nauseous mess they gave
him, with the utmost patience, until Mr. Barry’s good
nature released the victim, who was to be sure the most
ignorant creature in the ways of the world, I ever met
with.

I cannot omit to mention, that when we left Santa Cruz,
one of Mr. B.’s servants walked over from Oratavia that
morning, and returned with us apparently without fatigue,
as he laughed and talked all the way home, tho’ the real
distance was fifty miles, and the badness of the roads of

 

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274 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

course rendered the exertion much greater, but I was
assured this was not remarkable.

On the 6th October after breakfast, we took leave of
our kind hosts: and here instead of putting on a semblance
of concern, I was obliged to stifle my actual emotions, lest
they should appear affected. I never recollect being
equally moved at a separation, after so short an acquaint-
ance. But Mrs. Barry is so truly amiable, and we were
treated with such generous hospitality by both parties, that
it seemed more like a parting between near relations, than
casual acquaintances. Since then Oceans have rolled be-
tween us, and time and sorrow have combined to efface the
traces of recollection in my mind of a variety of circum-
stances; yet every thing I then saw and enjoyed, is still
fresh in my memory. Adieu, my dear madam, for a while:
believe me

Yours truly
E. F.Letter VII

TO MRS. L

 

Blackheath, 1st March 1815.
My pear Mapam,

On the 7th October 1795, we set sail from Ora-
tavia with a fair wind, and as it continued, I was sorry
we were obliged to stop at St. Iago, where we anchored,
on the 13th, in Port Praya Bay. This Bay makes a noble
appearance; the surrounding hills rising like an amphi-
theatre from the sea. The next morning we went on shore
about eight o’clock, but were excessively incommoded by
the sun, which in these climates rises very rapidly when
once above the horizon. Signor Basto the Commandant of
the Island, received us very politely, and most of the princi-
pal inhabitants came out to pay their respects to, and gaze
at, the strangers; among the rest a tall Negro priest, whose
shaven crown had a strange appearance. Signor B. led
us to a summer house which he had built for the sake of
coolness, and where there was indeed wind; but the air
from a brick-kiln would have been equally pleasant and
refreshing; while the glare was insupportable, as the place
was open on all sides; fortunately I had brought a pack of
cards, so to whist we sat, and his Excellency the Governor
joined us, and did us the honour to play several rubbers;
and as he spoke neither English nor French, I know not
how we could have amused each other better, as I have
observed before. An elegant dinner was provided for us,
275

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276 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

rare Emer eT —.
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at which I was obliged to preside. In the evening we
walked out to see the country, which is well cultivated and
highly picturesque; but the inhabitants make a wretched
appearance, generally living in huts, even when they are
rich. The sugar-cane raised here is remarkably strong;
they have also very good cotton, which they manufacture
into a pretty kind of cloth; but it is very dear, and exceed-
ingly narrow, being only about a quarter wide. After tea
we returned on board, tho’ Signor Basto offered to accom-
modate us with a house to ourselves; but as it is considered
dangerous to sleep on shore, we declined his offer, and bade
him adieu with many thanks for his civilities. In the course
of the day we learned, that this place is so unhealthy, that
out of twenty who land here, fifteen generally die within
six months. What a pity! every production of warm
countries thrives here in abundance, but Man, who culti-
vates them, sickens and dies.

Our Captain here laid in a stock for a long voyage, and
we set sail with a pleasant gale; the day following we caught
a fine dolphin; I never saw any thing so beautiful as the
colours it displayed when dying. On the 29th October
we crossed the Line, and again poor Mr. Campbell was the
butt of the party; he had been taught to expect a great
shock on passing it, and really stepped forward to look at
it, but the boatswain, who was his countryman, advised him
to keep aloof; he however declared very seriously that,
“he felt a very great shock, he must say, at the time.”
Nothing further occurred worthy of notice till our arrival
at Madras, which took place on the 25th January 1796.
I found this town much improved since my former visit,
and was particularly pleased with the Exchange, which is

ae ater eee er ret Tat eet

 

FarisORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 277

a noble building, ornamented with whole length pictures
of Lord Cornwallis, Sir Eyre Coote, and General Meadows.
The Theatre and Pantheon, where the assemblies are held,
are three miles from Madras. At this place we parted with
poor Mr. Campbell. I shall never forget the agony of tears
I one day found him in. “What is the matter” said I.
“Miss Rogers is going away and I am here,” answered he;
the words were very comprehensive; many young people
will be aware that they express love and misery in the
extreme. Poor Mr. C— must mourn in vain, for alas!
“his love met no return.”

On the 6th February we again set sail, and were fortu-
nately but little annoyed by the surf. On the 22nd we
reached Fulta, where the pilot being over-anxious to get
forward, made sail at night, when the soundings suddenly
shallowing he found it necessary to cast anchor, tho’ not
quite early enough, for in swinging round the ship struck.
At first she lay easy, having made a bed in the sand, but
when the tide came in, she heeled terribly, and it was the
opinion of most on board, that she would never be got off.
The chief officer advised us to secure whatever valuables we
had, about our own persons, for fear of the worst; (which
precaution I had already taken) and used all possible means
for the preservation of the vessel himself. Happily the ris-
ing tide floated her off.—You cannot judge of the acute-
ness of my feelings on this occasion; to see all my hopes
and cares frustrated: and the quick transition from sorrow
and disappointment on seeing the ship afloat again, without
having sustained the least injury, can only be imagined, by
those who have experienced such changes.

On Wednesday the 24th February we reached Calcuttaerr terns

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278 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

in safety, where we remained several months. Here we
found a resting place after a long voyage, diversified by
many pleasant and perilous occurrences, and here therefore
I shall make a pause in the narrative.
I remain,
My dear Madam,
Yours truly,
E. F.Soh USE PERE Whoa
oy Ba Ra Es ek: a

  

 

 

 

aa rire

Letter VITT

TO MRS. L

 

Blackheath, 3rd March, 1815.
My pear Mapam,

On Wednesday the 24th February 1796 (as I men-
tioned in the conclusion of my last letter) my feet once
more pressed the ground of Calcutta. Miss Rogers, Miss
Tripler, and myself, went directly to a large house which
Mr. Benjamin Lacey had taken for us by my desire. We
procured a freight for the Ménerva and sent her off, within
a month after her arrival. The ship had been detained so
long on her passage from various causes, that our goods
came to a very bad market; we were compelled therefore to
sell part by retail, and dispose of the remainder by auction.
A small copper bottomed ship called the Rosalia, a very fast
sailer, was purchased, and the command given to Capt.
Robinson, an American, who came out with us, and on
the 26th of August following, I embarked on her, with Mr.
Benjamin Lacey and Miss Tripler, for the United States,
after bidding a painful adieu to my dear young friend and
companion Miss Rogers, whose place Miss Tripler had
neither inclination nor ability to supply; but having fettered
myself by an engagement, I was forced to submit: besides
I could not well have proceeded alone.—We set sail with
a fair wind, but a very strong current running astern. On
the night of the 29th the water broke with such violence
against the ship, that I called for dead-lights, but was as-

sured by the Captain that there was not the /east occasion
279

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280 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

for them; loth to be thought cowardly or an ignorant sailor,
I instantly gave up the point, but had great reason to
lament my acquiescence: in less than a quarter of an hour,
a most tremendous sea broke in at the starboard side of the
cabin, and half filled it with water, which soaked a bale of
valuable muslins, with me their unfortunate owner. On
this the pilot bawled out, that if the dead-lights were not
put up instantly, he would cut cable and get under weigh;
so at length they were fixed.—In the morning we had the
additional mortification to find, that the ship had sprung a
leak, and what was worse than all, that she appeared gener-
ally too weak to support the voyage; but as it would have
been wrong to give her up without a trial, we proceeded with
the tide to Ingillee, in the faint hope of the leak closing. —
On the 30th we reached the lower buoy of the Barabulla.
Our leak still continuing to increase, on the 1st September
we were obliged to put back for Calcutta. In the evening
of the 4th, we anchored off Cooly Bazar, and the next day
went on shore at Calcutta, where the Rosalia was examined,
and pronounced totally unfit for the voyage.

On the 11th September I went on board the Swallow
Packet with Captain Simson, who was a Guinea pig (as it is
called) on board the Camden when I came out in 1784. He
has been a very fortunate young man, so early in life to ob-
tain a command. We had a very elegant repast or Tiffin,
and J must say, Captain S. seemed heartily glad to receive
his old shipmate. Mr. L— and Miss T— having accom-
panied me, the former was suddenly taken ill with an ague
and fever: this added to the fatigue, loss, and disappoint-
ment, I had so lately endured, was very near too much for
me. I brought him back, procured the best advice for
him, and in a few days he was relieved; but before he wasoo

  

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ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 281

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able to crawl out, I was in the same situation with a*similar
intermittent, but escaped the cold fit: I was exceedingly
reduced but restored by the free use of bark, and other
prescriptions from Dr. Hare, who never failed to relieve
me.*°

On the 22nd October Mr. Lacey engaged for our
freight and passage, on board the Hero, Captain Jackson,
bound to New York, to sail between the first and the tenth
of December. As soon as my strength returned, I bustled
about my business, endeavoured to repair my losses, visited
my friends, and bade them farewell, and every necessary
preparation being completed, on the 18th of December we
went on board at Garden Reach, and reached Culpee the
22nd, after a tedious passage, kedging all the way. Here
we went on shore, and laid in provisions. On Christmas
day we anchored off Kedgeree. On New Year’s day we
got under weigh; but unfortunately the wind failed us:
and at six in the evening, the Pilot received instructions not
to take us out till further orders. This was a sad beginning
of the New Year; the embargo lasted 18 days, after which
we proceeded, though very slowly, and on the 3oth arrived
at Vizagapatam, where we ran some risk from the Hero
being mistaken for a French Frigate. On the Captain’s
going on shore, I sent a letter from my good friend Mrs.
Child, to Captain Hodson, who returned me a pressing
invitation, and the next day I found him on the beach with
four palanquins for me and my friends. We proceeded to
Waltair, where Mrs. Hodson, Mrs. Child’s sister, gave us
a most cordial reception, and insisted on our staying till the
ship was ready to sail. The next morning I breakfasted
with Captain Pitman, one of the most elegant young men
lever saw. He obligingly drove me in his Curricle roundDAS a hae eae aoe Fae
“Pato Pah eke Gan a ainda Pn St ge ar

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282 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Waltair, and shewed me Sardinia Bay, and several other
spots remarkable for their beauty.

His own house was charmingly situated on a hill, half
way between Vizagapatam and Waltair. Land here is
considered of so little value, that every person who built,
took in as much as he could employ.

To one whose eye has been fatigued with viewing the
flat country of Bengal, this place appears delightful, but yet
diversified prospects do not repay the want of fertile plains.
Here I bought some beautiful sandal-wood and ivory boxes,
for which this place is famous. Captain and Mrs. Hodson
behaved to us with unbounded kindness. In the evening
we quitted Vizagapatam. The town makes an agreeable
appearance from the sea, not unlike St. James Valley in
St. Helena. All who can afford it, live at Waltair, which
however does not contain above ten houses. ©

On Friday the 24th February I once more landed on
Madras Beach, and the day following saw many of my
friends; among others Captain Gooch, who looked remark-
ably well: there is nothing more pleasant than to meet
unexpectedly an old friend, after a long absence and in a
foreign country. He dined with us, and every one was
charmed with his behaviour, so different from many who on
getting into commands, fancy that insolence establishes
superiority.

On the 27th we dined at St. Thomé, with Mr. Stevens,
Mr. B. Lacey’s agent; in the evening we sat down to vingt-
un, at a rupee a fish, which Mr. S. assured us was very low.
I lost only two dozen. We rose from the card table at
half past eleven, and for the honour of Madras hospitality,
were suffered to get into our palanquins at that time of
night, without the offer of a glass of wine to support usar tr ene

 

’

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 283

during a four miles’ jumble, or a shawl to keep us from the
damp air.

On the 2nd of March Captain Gooch paid us a farewell
visit: I was a good deal affected at parting; how many
thousand miles had each to traverse before we met again!
At 5 p. M. we left Madras; there was scarce any surf, but
the sea ran high. I found every thing very dear here,
consequently made few purchases.

On the 4th of March we got under weigh at day break,
and set sail for a new country, towards which I now looked
with eager expectation. On the 15th I had the misfortune
to fall into the after-hold, which opens into the great cabin;
the steward having carelessly left the scuttle open, while he
went for a candle. I was taken up senseless, having re-
ceived a severe blow on the head and many bruises, but
thank heaven, no material injury. There was a large open
case of empty bottles under the opening, and had I fallen
the other way, I must have gone directly on it; judge what
the consequences must have been.

About the 20th we began to be troubled with calms and
southerly winds, when our Captain politely accused Miss
Tripler and me of being two Jonahs, saying he never knew
a good voyage made, where a Woman or a Parson was on
board. I had a very agreeable revenge, for that very after-
noon a breeze sprung up, which proved to be the trade
wind, and for some time we enjoyed a fine run; but the ship
was the most uneasy I ever sailed in, rolling and pitching
on every occasion. On the 23rd of April a violent gale
came on, and for several days we had very unpleasant
weather. I was in great fear of the passage round the
Cape, and we were all in trouble, as provisions ran very
short: all our wine and spirits were expended, and we had= Se ear PERI aD)
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284 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

neither butter, cheese, nor coffee remaining. On the 18th
of May we arrived off False Bay, and on the 20th at noon,
Mr. D. Trail the Harbour-Master came on board, and we
cast anchor soon after. Mr. Lacey wrote to Lord Macart-
ney for leave to proceed to Cape Town, as without his
permission no passengers are suffered to land. We received
a visit from Mr. Gooch First Lieutenant of the Jupiter,
an elder brother of Captain Gooch, of whose arrival at
Madras we brought the first news. I called by invitation
on Captain Linzee to look at the Dort late Admiral De
Lucas’ ship. Captain L. has been three years a Post Cap-
tain, tho’ not yet four and twenty. When in command of
the Nemeszs, he cut out two French vessels from some
Mahomedan Port in the Mediterranean, and was afterwards
taken himself. He but just saved his distance now, for
hearing at Cape Town on his arrival ten days ago, that the
Dort was under sailing orders, he sat off on horse-back, and
arrived but twelve hours before she was to have sailed.
Mr. Gooch brought Mrs. Losack the wife of the Captain
of the Jupzfer, to visit me, and they took us with them on
board that ship, where we drank tea and supped.

On Monday the 22d we went on shore at noon, and were
received by Major Grimstone the Commanding Officer,
who politely apologized for detaining us so long. At one,
six of us mounted a waggon with eight horses, which to my
great surprize were driven by one man in hand, at the rate
of six miles an hour, over loose stones, or whatever else came
in the way; so that we were almost jumbled to death. We
passed three beaches, and to avoid quick-sands, they drove
through the surf ; the roaring of which, the horses splashing
as they gallopped along, added to the crack of the driver’s
long whip, formed altogether a charming concert. As theORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 285

driver cannot wield these enormous instruments with one
hand, another man sits by to hold the reins, while by
lengthening or shortening his arm he dexterously contrives
to make every horse in turn feel the weight of the lash. At
length we reached Cape Town in safety, but were terribly
tired and bruised. Between the beaches, the road (such as
it is) passes along stupendous mountains, from whose
craggy tops, masses of stone are continually falling, some of
them large enough to crush a church; many have rolled
into the sea, where they form a barrier against the surf, and
may defy its force for ages.

We heard that the former Governor, General Craig,
sailed from hence on Tuesday preceding; he was once forced
to put back, but the second attempt succeeded.

There were no less than six vessels here. The flag was
struck on the 15th, and would not be hoisted again until the
15th August, during which interval the Dutch suffered no
ships to remain in Table Bay. Our people are not so
cautious; perhaps, experience may render them so. _I like
the appearance of the place; for altho’ the houses are
generally low, they occupy much ground; being built of
stone, or covered with plaster, and containing five or six
rooms on a floor, they look well; and though with only one
upper story, yet the ceilings being lofty, they do not seem
deficient in height. The church is handsome; the service
is performed in Dutch and English; there are no pews but
benches and chairs, which I greatly prefer, as it gives the
idea of social worship more, and is consistent with that
equality, which in the more immediate presence of God,
becomes his creatures, as being equally dependant on Him.
It is true this was partly lost here, because the Governor and
his family use benches, covered with crimson velvet. We

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286 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

sat off after service for Simon’s Town and reached the ship
at 4 Pp. M. On Monday Mr. Gooch took us in the morning
to see the Tremendous, Admiral Pringle’s ship.” Here we
saw furnaces for heating balls.

On Wednesday the 31st we dined on board the Dort,
where we met Captain and Mrs. Losack, Lord Augustus
Fitzroy, Captain Holles of the Chichester, and Captain
Osborne of the Trusty; we went and returned in Captain
L—’s barge. Next day we dined on board L’ Imperieuse
with Lord Augustus Fitzroy. In addition to our yester-
day’s party were Captain Stevens of the Ratile-Snake,
Captain Granger of the Good Hope, Captain Alexander of
the Sphinx, Mr. Pownall Naval Officer and his wife, and
Mr. Trail. Huis Lordship gave us a most magnificent dinner,
and to my great joy, was too much the man of fashion, to
urge the gentlemen to hard drinking, as had been the case
on board the Dort. He has an excellent band. When we
retired Mrs. Losack and Mrs. Pownall entered into con-
versation, about the Cape, which they both agreed was the
vilest place imaginable; Mrs. L— is a fine dashing lady.
Since her marriage, the Jupiter has been on a cruize. I
asked her if they were ever fired upon. “Oh yes, from a
battery and returned the fire.’ “Did you go below?”
“Not I indeed.” ‘Then I suppose you must have been
greatly alarmed for fear of being shot?” ‘Why to tell you
the truth I was so much engaged in observing how they
loaded the guns and maneuvred the ship, that I never
once thought of danger.” There is a courageous lady for
you!

We played at whist in the evening and retired at eleven.
Captain Alexander took us on board in his Barge. On
the 4th of June the Admiral, at one, fired two guns, thenoe So tS te he es ere
SS ere bree mere peer arate estar oes os Thea inte rem peer rte ens Simran farther ge ISA

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 287

all the Men of War in the Harbour followed with twenty
one each: the effect produced by the reverberation from so
many stupendous rocks was most noble! Mr. Gooch and
the Doctor came on board to take leave, and on going away,
the boats crew gave us three cheers, which our people
returned. On the whole, our time passed here pleasantly;
the politeness of my Countrymen, contrasted with the man-
ners of our American officers served to soothe the irritation
of our minds, and teach us to endure that for a season,
with patience, which we had often found to be a trial of our
spirits and temper, in the hopes of meeting by and by with
Gentlemen.

On the 5th of June the wind was as foul as it could blow,
and split our only main sail. It is a great misfortune to sail
in a vessel ill provided with stores and necessaries: we had
an opportunity of observing this day, what a good ship can
perform; L’Imperieuse F rigate being ordered on a cruize,
got under weigh at noon, passed us at 3 p. M. and was safely
out before night. Lord Augustus was polite enough to
hoist his colours while going by, and struck them immedi-
ately afterwards. Our Captain was too much of a Yankee
however to return the compliment. I forgot to mention,
that yesterday four large ships came in; they proved to be
the Rose, the Hillsborough, and the Thurlow East India-
men, under convoy of H. M. 74 Gun ship the Raésonable.

On the 8th of June we were still in sight of Simon’s
Town, though we were out two days. On the 11th of
July we crossed the equinoctial Line, and I felt satisfied in
thinking, that I was once more in my own hemisphere.
There are cases in which it is wisdom to please ourselves
with trifles; at this time my spirits were very low, and sunk
with what I might now term a presentiment, as I approached

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288 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

another people and another world, which was eventually the
grave of that property, for which I had toiled so long. On
the 28th of August a pilot came on board from Philadel-
phia, and from him we had the mournful account, that a
sickness raged in the city, almost as fatal as that which
ravaged it a few years before, and that a general distress
prevailed in America: frequent Bankruptcies, Trade at a
stand, and an open war with France daily expected, as they
took every thing from America which fell in their way—
As we did not like to proceed to Philadelphia after hearing
this account, we tacked and stood to the northward, but we
had a succession of vexatious hindrances, having narrowly
escaped shipwreck in Egg Harbour, and did not reach New
York till the 3rd of September, when we landed at 6 in the
evening, and went immediately to a house recommended by
my friend Captain Crowninshield, most happy to part with
the strange beings with whom we had been so long and pain-
fully immured.
Now having arrived in the land of Columbia, I will bid
you adieu for a while.
Iam, My dear Madam,
Yours truly,
KE

Advertisement.

The work had been printed thus far when the death of
the author took place. The subsequent parts of her journal,
not appearing to contain any events of a nature sufficiently
interesting to claim publication, no additional extracts have
been deemed necessary by the administrator, who from a
view of benefiting the estate has been induced to undertake
the present publication.TERMINAL NOTES
BY E. M. FORSTER

*P. 39. THE Queen: Marie Antoinette, aged 22:

*P. 44. Duc pe Cuartres: afterwards Duke of Orleans
(Philippe Egalité).

3P. 60. THe Kinc or SarpiniA: Vittorio Amedeo III.

*P. 67. THe Baretro Broruers: probably Joseph and Luis.
A big Indo-Portuguese firm, engaged in the Eastern trade. Joseph
built churches in Calcutta. W. Hickey found Luis “endowed by
nature with extraordinary talents and elegant address, though under
the unfavourable circumstance of an extremely dark skin, indeed,

nearly black.” See also Campos, History of the Portuguese in
Bengal.

°P. 74 seg. ALEXANDRIA. Topography. Two harbours, divided
by the promontory of Ras-el-Tin, on whose western spur stood the
lighthouse. (The Pharos of the ancients occupied the eastern spur
and has long since vanished.) The native town lay across the neck
of the promontory. The present city had not been begun. Mrs.
Fay’s account is interesting. She visits (i1.) “Pompey’s Pillar,”
which has nothing to do with Pompey; probably erected to Diocle-
tian, A.D. 297; height 84 feet: proportions—execrable. (ii.)
Mosque built in the seventh century over the site of the Church of
St. Athanasius, at the junction of the present Rue Rosette with the
Rue Sidi el Metwalli. It was a large building, of the court-yard
type; the wedge-shaped Attarine Mosque now occupies part of its
site. (iii.) “Cleopatra’s Palace’”—probably a fraud, and in any
case not visible in these days. (iv.) “Cleopatra’s Needles” had
nothing to do with her either, though they were brought to adorn a
temple she had begun. Originally set up by Thotmes III. (1500
B.C.) before the Temple of the Rising Sun at Heliopolis, they were
289Pe Pa key ety
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290 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

brought to Alexandria in 13 B.c. and set up in the forecourt of the
Temple to Augustus. They remained zm sztw till the nineteenth
century when one of them went to the Thames Embankment, the
other to the United States.

For the appearance of Alexandria as she saw it, cf. the illustra-
tions in Volney, Voyages en Syrie et en Egypt, 1783-85; Volney’s
pencil exaggerates, but so does her pen.

Society. The Fays did not see anything of the English com-
munity while at Alexandria, but, though small, it already existed.
A Dane, who landed twenty years earlier, says:

The English keep themselves quiet and conduct themselves without
making much noise. If any nice affair is to be undertaken they withdraw
themselves from it and leave to the French the honour of removing all
difficulties. When any benefits result from it they have their share, and if
affairs turn out ill they secure themselves in the best manner they can.

°P. 74. Mr. Branpy. The news the Consul brought was bad:
the previous Suez caravan had been plundered. Mrs. Fay dare not

put this in her letter for fear of the Turkish censor (p. 94).

1 Re 80: aoe 40 miles from Alexandria, and 10 from the
Rosetta mouth of the Nile. It was then a prosperous city. Edward
Wortley Montagu (Lady Mary’s son) had, until recently, lived
there in semi-Oriental state (Nichols, Literary Anecdotes, iv. 640).
The place is still delightful, though the sands are choking it; in
the nineteenth century when Alexandria expanded, it decayed.

*P. 81. Tue Pyramips. These are of course the three Gizeh
pyramids, visible long before boat or train reaches Cairo. The
Great Pyramid is 451 feet high. What does “steps three feet dis-
tant of” mean? Probably “of” should be “on.”

°P. 82. Grorce BaLpwin was the East India Company’s agent
at Cairo. He reported at length to Calcutta on the hardship endured
by the English in Egypt, and particularly on the catastrophe of the
Suez caravan, which Mrs. F ay is about to describe. (India Office
Records: Original Consultations of the Supreme Council for De-
cember 23, 1779.) Baldwin says that if his advice had been fol-
a lowed all would have been well; with which, however, the Supreme
: fe ; Council did not concur. 3ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 201

10P, 82. Mrs. Fay’s Dress. See frontispiece, also note, p- 24.
If, as is probable, the picture was done in India, she must have
brought her costume safely through the various misfortunes of the
journey.

1 P. 86. CuTTING oF THE Canat. This was the Khalig Canal
(now filled up). The ceremony dated back to Ancient Egypt, and
had at one time involved human sacrifice. The dyke was broken
when the river, as measured by the Nilometer on the Island of Rodeh
opposite, had risen to 16 cubits. Lane, Modern Egyptians, ch. xxvi.,
has a detailed account.

7 P. 87. Mr. Fay’s Letter: the only example of his epistolary
style, and the only indication that his wife had been a Miss C. If
C should happen to be a misprint for P, then her maiden name
would be Preston (p. 255).

*8P. go seg. Tue Natalia anp THE PLUNDERED CARAVAN. A
note is now due on this mysterious and agitating subject. Mrs. Fay
had to bottle herself up so long as she was on Egyptian soil; once
on the Natalia, she explodes. Her account is fairly accurate; let
us check it by the long complaint which John O’Donnell, who was
part owner of the merchandise, addressed to the Supreme Council
at Calcutta (India Office Records: Consultations of the Govern-
ment, June 12, 1780).

O'Donnell first went to India in 1771 as an E.I.C. Cadet; then
he became Deputy Paymaster to the Nawab of Oudh. The Fays
met him in Egypt, and, later, on their voyage round India. Accord-
ing to his account, the Natalia was a Danish boat, but her captain
was Dutch, not Danish, and named Van der Velden, not Vander-
field. Chenu (of whom we shall hear much in a moment) was sec-
ond mate. The two French Chevaliers were Pierre Mathieu Renault
de St. Germaine, a godson of Dupleix (Mrs. Fay’s “Monsieur
Chevalier’), and his brother Renault de Chilly. The Natalza
reached Suez on May 24, 1770. The catastrophe proceeds much as
Mrs. Fay relates. The caravan is plundered as it crosses the desert,
and the party splits—some continuing to Cairo, others returning to
Suez. Only Renault de St. Germaine reached Cairo, to spread terror

among the Europeans there; his brother de Chilly, Messrs, Bar-ee ee

ee a cee eee re eet eee or aceaaey
pee name ora ara aOR os EAT STS he ATER

   

292 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

 
 
 
 
 
  
  
    
   
   
  
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
  
 

rington, Jenkins, Van der Velden, some servants, and an Armenian
linguist all perished. Those who returned to Suez fared better ;
they included O’Donnell himself, Chenu, the cook, and a Captain
Waugh. Nevertheless, says O’Donnell, “under the intense influence
of the Sun which equally affected us by its vertical Rays from the
Heavens as by its reflected Heat from the burning Sands, we also
suffered from Thirst which was beyond Idea painful and trouble-
some. . . . We were reprobated by the People as if we had been the
most abandoned Delinquents. ... Our servant boys (sons of
Christians) were against their Inclinations notwithstanding their
Fears and Deprecations circumcised and underwent the Ceremonies
of being made Mussalman.” He did not suffer in silence; his
threats to the Egyptian Government endangered the Europeans in
Cairo, and nearly led to the seizing of the property of Mr. Moore.

The Natalia, lying all the time off Suez, had been gutted; now,
with Chenu as captain, and the Fays and other passengers on board,
she proceeds to her final doom at Calicut.

“* P.g4. THe GoverNMENT oF Ecypt: a well-informed account
of the confusion. The dual system of a Pasha sent from Constan-
tinople and of 24 local Beys or Mamelouks had broken down ten
years previously. The country remained in anarchy until 1790,
when a Turkish army subdued it.

*° P. 107. CHEVALIER DE St. Lusrn. His mission was not to
Hyder Ali but to the Marathas at Poona, where he did great damage
to English interests. Mrs. Fay cares nothing for her beloved coun-
try as long as she can get her letters delivered safely.

*° P. 109. TuLiox: probably the eminent Calcutta auctioneer of
this name. Zoffany the painter is said to have quarrelled with him
a few years later, and to have introduced him as Judas Iscariot into
a. picture of the Last Supper—having induced him to sit on the
understanding that he was representing St. John. The picture is
still in St. John’s Church, Calcutta. Mr. Tulloh (if he it be)
appears as a robust and handsome man. But Zoffany quarrelled
with so many people that there is a doubt which he selected for
Judas; some say it was a Mr. Paull.

Tulloh & Co. sold Mrs, Fay’s effects after her death,re

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 293

*7P. 111. JoHN Hare. How she loathes this chattering man-
nikin! Wm. Hickey (i. 274) did not find him so bad: “A genteel-
looking young man of very slight form and apparently in bad
health” ; they met in London in 1772. Hare built up a good practice
at Calcutta; he and Fay were both employed to defend J. A. Hicky,
the editor of the Bengal Gazette (p. 193); he became sheriff of the
city in 1782. His end was tragic. He was returning home over-
land (1784) with letters of introduction from Sir Elijah Impey to
Lord Thurlow, and he had some diamonds with him which he
allowed his attendants to see; they murdered him and threw the body
into the Euphrates. Thus the ostentation and expansiveness that
Mrs. Fay censures proved his death. She certainly sums up his
faults well; and his letter to Sirdar Khan (quoted on p. 293) fully
bears out her charge of pomposity. But he was probably nicer than
she says. We must never forget that she herself was a most trying
woman, particularly on a boat, and that Mr. Hare would not have
found her table manners funny, or appreciated her contempt for the
violin.

*8P. 114 seg. IMPRISONMENT AT CaLicuT. This important epi-
sode calls for detailed comment.

Names of the prisoners: Mr. and Mrs. Fay, Mr. and Mrs. Tulloh,
Mr. Hare and his servant Lewis, Mr. Taylor, Mr. Manesty, Mr.
Fuller, and one other, possibly John the Gunner. The Fays were
imprisoned from November 5, 1779, to February 17, 1780; the
others got free on December 16.

Place: the English Factory (Residency) at Calicut; then the Fort,
then back to the Factory.

Calicut was an old Hindu city. The name, Colicoda, means
“cock crowing”; a cock was supposed to have crowed on the fort,
and the city to extend so far as the sound could carry. Hyder Ali
acquired it peaceably from the Hindu ruler (Zamorin) in 1766, but
had to reconquer it in 1773. His brother-in-law, Sirdar (Sudder)
Khan was now governor. When the Natalia arrived war with
the English was contemplated, and the English factor had already
fled. The Natalia was a Danish boat—hence the appeal to the
Danish factor Passavant—and her captain was French; but Sirdar

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294 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Khan rightly surmised that the chief financial interests in her were
English. The Fays roused his suspicions first by refusing to place
themselves under Danish protection. He began by imprisoning
them, and added the other passengers in a few days. The imprison-
ment was monstrous. Nevertheless, Hyder Ali had good reason to
suspect English intrigues against him that autumn. He was driven
out of Calicut in 1782. His son Tipu Sultan got it back in 1789.
It is now British. The population is largely Moplah—fanatic and
turbulent to-day as in Mrs. Fay’s time.

We possess—most fortunately !—the portentous memoir that Mr.
Hare drew up and presented to Sirdar Khan on November 18, just
after he had been robbed of his luggage. (Quoted in Bengal Past
and Present, vol. xii. 257 seq. He sent it in duplicate to Madras,
and it has thus been preserved in the E.I.C. archives.) It entirely
confirms Mrs. Fay’s account—also her estimate of Mr. Hare’s char-
acter and oratory. How sublime is its exordium!

Your Memorialist begs leave in the first place to remind your Excellency
that the Humanity and Policy of enlightened ages have suggested Certain
Rules of universal Conduct under the denomination of the Laws of Na-
tions. ...

That the progress of civilisation has tempered and refined these Laws, so
that a minute attention to them forms in some measure the perfection of
National Character. ...

In a season of public peace and alliance between the powers of the Nabob
and Great Britain, nine English subjects have been seized by an armed force
and their persons confined without the necessaries of life, separated from
their property, the whole of it has been violently plundered and such parts of
it as remained are damaged and rendered useless by the salt water.

Their imprisonment being in the first instance against and contrary to
the Laws of Nations is aggravated by circumstances of peculiar and wanton
cruelty. The indecent noise and insolence of the numerous force which
constitute their Guard, molest equally their peace by Day and their rest by
Night, their situation is moreover destitute of every domestic convenience
and consolation, and the whole of their money has been taken from their
chests and publickly confiscated (Rs.6000 in all).

Sirdar Khan was unmoved. On January 1, 1780, a letter from
Mr. Passavant, the Danish factor, was received by Mr. Church, the
English factor, at Tellicherry (Bengal Past and Present, iii. 168),
and no doubt it was partly owing to this letter that Mr. Church
sent his ill-omened assistance to the Fays.

Meanwhile the missionary Schwartz was at Seringapatam, trying
to patch things up between Hyder Ali and the Madras Government,

 

ApelenyORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 295

but he did not know of the Calicut outrage. A second mission was
now despatched under George Gray with a letter from the Governor
of Madras to Hyder Ali, requesting the release of “Mr. Hare and
ten other Europeans” (Feb. 1780). Gray reports on his arrival
that they had all been released by February 17—the very date Mrs.
Fay’s narrative implies. Gray’s own reception was cold, and in the
following June the war started. The Fays only just escaped.

If they had been sent up country as Captain Ayres advised (p.
129, how would they have fared? The answer is to be found in
two most interesting little memoirs, The Imprisonment of James
Scurry, published in 1824, and The Imprisonment of James Brise
tow, published 1794. Scurry and Bristow were two young sailors,
captured by the French admiral during his naval operations and
handed over by him to Hyder Ali. They remained in the interior
several years, drilling recruits. They were circumcised and went
semi-native and Bristow was assigned a wife, from whom he parted
with great regret when peace was declared. Similar experiences
would doubtless have overtaken Mr. Fay.

*’ P. 129. She got the information about this plot from West in
Calcutta (p. 197).

7° P. 140. THe Nayuirs—z.e. Nairs—are a Hindu community
who interest anthropologists. They practise matriarchy and to a cer-
tain extent polyandry also. Mrs. Fay is wrong in supposing they
were attacking the English. On the contrary the English had insti-
gated them to rebel against Hyder Ali, and their operations near
Tellicherry were probably to this end. The rebellion was soon
crushed.

Mahe was another cause of dissension between Hyder Ali and the
English (p. 17).

** P. 141. Kannoyr ANGRIA was a Mahratta freebooter of the
earlier eighteenth century who infested the western coast ; sometimes
he is called an admiral. For his encounters with the English in
Bombay, see Clement Downing, History of the Indian Wars, re-
cently edited by W. Foster.

2 P. 143. CaLicuT: see note on p- 292.

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ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

23 P, 173. Mr. Popuam and his projects made much dust in
Madras at this time. When William Hickey landed in 1783, he
was erecting sixty houses at once, having purchased as building ma-
terial the stranded hull of an East Indiaman. He came to grief, so
did every one who trusted him. “A hard marriage settlement, some
extravagance, and Mr. Stephen Popham have forced me to quit my
country perhaps for ever,” complains a Mr. William Cane; and a
Mrs. Augusta Barclay censures “his peculiarities, I must not pre-
Sume to use a stronger word,” and is glad to feel that she sees as
little of him as possible. (Hickey, vol. iii. passim.)

296

 

*4P.174. Sr. THomas Mount. There are two “Mounts” near
Madras connected with St. Thomas. A legend brings him to India
to found Nestorian Christianity on the “Little Mount” by the banks
of the Adyar. There he was pierced by the lance of a Brahmin,
and ran six miles in a wounded condition to the “Great Mount,”
where he died (a.p. 68). It is the Great Mount to which Mrs. Fay
refers. The church on the summit was built by the Portuguese in
1547, when Nestorianism was dying out; it contains early inscrip-
tions, also a picture of the Virgin Mary by St. Luke, which St.
Thomas brought with him from Palestine. He is buried in a third
locality, Saint Thome, close to Madras, on the shore.

2° P. 183. Tue Cuamsers were Mrs. Fay’s chief protectors at
Calcutta. Sir Robert (1737-1803) had gained distinction in Eng-
land; Vinerian Professor of Law at Oxford; friend to Dr. Johnson,
whom he made laugh immoderately for reasons not obvious to Bos-
well (Boswell, iii. 304). He came East in 1774, as judge in the
Supreme Court. Here he did not increase his reputation, being weak
in the Nuncomar trial, and generally undignified and frivolous.
William Hickey addressed him as a “contemptible animal” (ill. 255),
on which “a look of surprize pervaded the whole Court,” but the
animal took no action. J. A. Hicky satirised him as Sir Viner Pliant
in the Bengal Gazette. Chambers became Chief Justice after Im-
pey’s resignation, and returned to England in 1799.

His wife, Fanny, was the daughter of the sculptor Joseph Wilton.
She was renowned for her beauty, smartness, and goodness. At theORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 297

age of sixteen she “stood for Hebe at the Royal Academy,” and in
later life composed a volume of family prayers.

Old Mrs. Chambers was also of the party. Also several children,
one of whom perished on the Grosvenor. Their Calcutta house was
probably in Old Post Office Street; they acquired a good deal of
property, and had some country estates; they have a vault in the
South Park Cemetery. Mrs. Fay does not mention them in her
subsequent visits ; possibly they had seen sufficient of her.

*° P. 184. Mrs. Hastincs: Anne Maria Apollonia Chapuset
(Marian), Hastings’ second wife. They fell in love coming out on
the boat. She was still married to a Baron Imhoff, whom she did
not care for and who did not care for her. A divorce was arranged
after the trio reached India, and she and Hastings were married in
1777, and lived together for many happy years. “An unsavoury
episode,” complained the historians. A contemporary writes: “She
has a good person and has been very pretty, is sensible, lively, and
wants only to be greater mistress of the English language to prove
she has a great share of wit.” When Mrs. Fay called on her, she
was about 43. Zoffany has painted her. “Belvidere House” raises
a small difficulty, for Hastings had sold the bungalow bearing that
name a few months before Mrs. Fay’s visit; the present residence
of the Governor of Bengal is on its site.

“7 P. 186. NortH Naytor, the Company’s attorney, had given
Hastings advice which the Supreme Court held to be illegal and,
after a complicated quarrel, he was committed to prison for contempt
of court. He developed dysentery in the Calcutta Jail, and, though
he was released, died soon after.

252) 190,

Foop. From various passages it is clear that our
heroine was of the hungry type. People who write long letters often
are. That very June “the Surgeon of an Indiaman fell dead after
eating a hearty dinner of beef, thermometre being 98°” (Busteed,
Old Calcutta) ; but the warning did not deter her. She ate and ate
till the end—asparagus, pork, tunny, turtle, preserved peaches, ghi.

*°P. 193. THE Calcutta Gazette, a respectable Government
paper, did not appear until 1784, so Mrs. Fay must mean the Bengal

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298 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

Gazetie. A disreputable weekly, and interesting as the first paper
to be published in India. J. A. Hicky, editor. First published,

February 1780. Here is a specimen of its news:

A few days ago a dispute arose between two young gentlemen not many
miles from Serampore about a lady of a sooty complexion. The friends
of both were of some apprehension that a duel would have been the conse-
quences, but it happily ended in a reciprocal bastinado.

Here is a poem from it:

O lovely Sue
How sweet art thou,
Than sugar thou art sweeter;
Thou dost as far
Excell sugar
As sugar does saltpetre.

A footnote explains that “thou” must be pronounced as in Scot-
land. The paper was suppressed in 1782 because of its attacks on
Hastings and general tiresomeness and vulgarity (Busteed, Echoes
of Old Calcutta, 182-222). J. A. Hicky was unsuccessfully de-
fended by Anthony Fay.

°° P. 195. DurL BETWEEN Francis aNp Hastincs. In the
words of a contemporary Mohammedan historian: “At the end of
Redjeh or the beginning of Theban both parties, according to the
established custom of the nation, went out by themselves and fought
with pistols. The Governor being befriended by destiny came off
harmless, but Mr. Francis was wounded. As he was predestined to
live a great deal more, the pistol ball, although it entered at his
right side, did neither break the bone nor even rend the curtain; it
stopped between bone and flesh and in a few days he was cured.”

They had quarrelled over an alleged promise of Francis’ not to
interfere with the military operations that Hastings was conduct-
ing. Had he, or had he not, given such a promise? The provoca-
tive minute was really Hastings’ not Francis’. It is full of delibe
erate insults, such as “I judge of his public conduct by my experi-
ence of his private, which I have found to be void of truth and
honour.” A challenge arrived in due course. Francis, who had
courage, entered in his journal for August 16: “Employed in settling
my affairs, burning papers, etc., in case of the worst—dull work.”eee ee a

  

ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 299

They met under the “Trees of Destruction” near the Alipore Bridge.
Much gentlemanly business—enquiries and so on—ensued; and just
as much hatred and suspicion remained. They achieved a certain
amount of pleasure for an old village woman who happened to be
passing and thought the encounter between the mad sahibs great
fun (Busteed, Echoes from Old Calcutta, ch. 6). And Hastings
was so far successful that Francis did not interfere further on the
Council, but shortly after left for England.

*‘P. 196. Coronet Barture: defeated by Hyder Ali near
Madras (Sept. 1780), and carried away as prisoner to Seringapatam,
where he died in misery two years later. His misfortunes recall her
own imprisonment to her.

Her hopes of Sir Eyre Coote were justified. He checked Hyder
Ali at Porto Novo, and ended the invasion of the Carnatic (1781).
His previous Indian career had been distinguished: fought at
Plassey. He died at Madras, and on her next visit she sees a
picture of him in the Exchange there (p. 277).

*? P. 199. Rowzanp Jackson: a doctor of ability, who had lost
his estates in Ireland owing to a lawsuit, and was obliged to take
service in India. He wished to be appointed “Physician” to the
Calcutta Hospitals, which Hastings opposed, on the ground that the
other practitioners were only “surgeons,” and that the distinction
was unfair. He died in 1784. His son’s name was Edward; the
name of the young lady whom Edward married was Pheebe Tuting ;
the other young lady’s name was Maria Chantry (Firminger).

°° P. 201. JoHN Hype: one of the judges in the Supreme Court.
A fantastic and hospitable person. The “public breakfast” is de-
scribed in detail by Wm. Hickey. Hyde’s house was close to the
Court (site of present town hall), so the Bar procession had not far
to go. He was himself a hearty feeder: satirised by J. A. Hicky as
“Turkey Cram.” His notebooks at Calcutta contain (says
Firminger) several references to Anthony Fay, but I have not had
the opportunity of examining them. He died at Calcutta, 1796.

8 P. 203. THE Harmonicon—dancing house, concert hall, and
tavern—stood in the Lal Bazaar, opposite the Jail.= S : Pe o
aes? paar rary nor BT
a eae ae i

a aE aes mS taba
etapa? OG oes ae PES Q Oe a ola? ei

300 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

85 P. 204. Lapy Coote, wife to the Commander-in-Chief. Her
father had been Governor of St. Helena.

86 P. 205.' THe Pray House “erected in 1775, stood close to the
northwest corner of the present Lyon’s range” (Firminger). It con-
sisted of pit and boxes; Mrs. Fay, for her gold mohur, would have
sat in a box. This particular performance of Otway’s Venice Pre-
served made a stir. The Bengal Gazette of February 11, 1781, says
of it: “Captain Call played Jafher admirably well, and may be styled
the Garrick of the East. Mr. Norford played Belvidera with such
an amorous glow of features and utterance—and was so charac-
teristic in the description of madness—as to procure him (as usual)
universal applause.”

*7 P. 210. Henry Watson: chief engineer at Calcutta, also ship-
builder and speculator in marine stores. He had lately quarrelled
with the Government over his dock-scheme, and had acted as second
to Philip Francis in the Warren Hastings duel (p. 195). His reten-
tion of Mr. Fay might well alarm Eliza; it showed that her husband
had gone over to the opposition, and turned against Impey and
Chambers, his former patrons. Did he now send Mr. Fay back to
England, to prepare the impeachment against Impey? And did
Mr. Fay make a muddle of this, as of everything else he touched ?
Probably. Watson had a superb house on Garden Reach. He
loved Calcutta, and did not leave it until he was dying (1785). He
bequeathed his fortune of £300,000 to his natural daughter; his
widow only inherited the dock projects, but she did well out of it in
the long run.

Mrs. Fay’s account of her husband is confirmed by an illuminating
and scathing passage in the Impey MSS. (B. M. 16260). Writing
from Patna, under the date of August 31, 1781, Sir Elijah Impey
speaks of Colonel Watson’s hostility and then continues:

This very man is at this time pushing his animosity against me in another
way. There is a very low man here of the name of Fay, who had been
called to the Bar in England, and, therefore, I thought it proper he should
be admitted an advocate here. This man at Watson’s instigation as I believe
has drawn the paper a copy of which I herewith transmit.

He entertains him, as I am informed, in his house, and means to send
him to England with the paper. Fay sent it to me in an hand imitating
printing. .. . He did not say who was the prosecutor employing him.ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 301

8 P, 212. CuHinsuRAH, a Dutch settlement on the Hoogli, was
seized by the English as soon as news of hostilities with Holland

reached them—z.e. in July 1781. It was finally ceded to us by
treaty in 1824.

°° P. 213. Mrs. Wueer. Charlotte, second wife of Edward
Wheler, member of Council; important people. Mrs. Fay’s misfor-

tunes seem to have raised her into society from which she subse-
quently sank.

* P. 213. CuurcH aT Catcurta. There was none for the mo-
ment; St. John’s was not begun until 1783. When Mrs. Fay re-
turned to Calcutta and set up a millinery establishment, her shop
abutted on to its graveyard. The sacred edifice, whose absence she
had deplored, then became a nuisance, for the Vestry erected a wall
which deprived her shop of light and air. She wrote complaining.
Her letter must be quoted in full, since it is the only additional
letter extant; and it is not without native acidity.

To the Rev. Mr. Blanshard, the Rev. Mr. Owen, Mr. Cockerell, Mr.

Thornhill, Mr. Sealey, Mr. Johnson, members of the Church Vestry.
13th April, 1789.

GENTLEMEN—Pardon the freedom I use in making an application, which
I flatter myself, however, will be attended with success having nothing for
its object that can in the smallest degree injure the property of the Church.

Permit me then to acquaint you that, about five years since, I became an
inhabitant, and, sometime after purchaser of the house I now reside in,
formerly the Post Office, and forms the south-west boundary of the old
burying-ground, now the compound of the New Church. At the period I
mention, the lower floor was nearly as habitable as the upper one; but
shortly after, a considerable part of it was rendered almost useless, in conse-
quence of a wall being built up against the window, so close as to prevent
the accession of either light or air. There is also great reason to apprehend
that from the accumulation of damp between the walls and the house, and
the want of a free ventilation, walls of the latter will sustain material
injury.

Suffer me, therefore, to request, Gentlemen, that you will have the
goodness to take the subject of this letter into consideration; and be pleased
to allow that part of the wall, which stands against my house, to be taken
down; or such openings to make in it, as may suffice to restore the premises
to their former usefulness.—I am, Gentlemen, Your most humble servant,

Eviza Fay.

(Quoted by Firminger from the St. John’s Church records. )

** P. 221. Wiuri1am Hosea had been seventeen years in the Com-
pany’s service; his wife’s name was Mary. The Grosvenor met

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302 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

with a terrible catastrophe, to which Mrs. Fay never refers: the cap-
tain ran the ship ashore at night on the east coast of Africa, in the
neighbourhood of Delagoa Bay (Aug. 4, 1782). One hundred and
thirty-five people survived the wreck, including four ladies and two
children. They tried to march southward to the Cape, but got into
difficulties with the natives, and only three (seamen) arrived. See
Bengal Past and Present, vol. ii. No. 3, for the official account; also
Hickey, ii. 199. Rumours of young savages with light skins led to
the theory that the ladies had married with their captors, and borne
offspring.

Mrs. Fay nearly met with a similar disaster on the Valentine (p.
232).

42P, 224. SuFFREN AND Hucues. They fought five engage-
ments on the Coromandel Coast, which win the admiration of ex-
perts (Mahan, Influence of Sea Power, 1660-1783, ch. xii.). Suffren
was a charming character and an accomplished admiral. Hughes
was solid and second-rate, as his picture at Greenwich suggests, but
his action was largely responsible for keeping the French out of
India.

48 P, 228. Tue Valentine. The log of this vessel records the
embarkation of Mrs. Fay and her luggage at Barrabola Head; also,
though in guarded terms, the disgraceful muddle off the African
coast. The name of the ship-surgeon who attended Mrs. Fay for

colic, and with whom she was subsequently accused of flirting, was
Patrick Ivory. (India Office Records: Log 452, G.)

44 P. 234. Tue Chapman. I have ventured to repunctuate this
passage. The text of 1817 reads, “On board which were Mr. Casa-
major and his mother, who secured accommodations on the Lord
North. Not choosing to venture farther on the Chapman, upon
which I was applied to...” The grammar is too queer even for
Mrs. Fay; nor does the sentence make sense. Vaguely disap-
probant, Archdeacon Firminger has, without comment, substituted
Valentine for Chapman. But try putting a comma after Lord North
and a full stop after Chapman; the situation becomes intelligible.

**P. 245. Mr. Lewin. Thomas Lewin (1753-1843) of the
Madras Civil Service.ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA 303

*6P. 252. ‘Miss Hicks. Register of St. John’s, Calcutta,
March 19, 1785: “John Lacey, a bachelor, sh
Hicks, single woman. T. Blanchard, Chaplain.”

*““P. 255. Stave Girt at St. HeErena,
action recorded of Mrs. Fay. It roused great indignation locally
(India Office Records: St. Helena, 57)- She stranded the girl on the
island in 1782, probably in payment of a bill. The girl was no fool,
and, on discovering that her late mistress was passing by on the
fenry, she at once went to the Governor and denounced her. In
her deposition she “made oath on the Holy Evangelists that she was
called Kitty Johnson as her supposed Father was Johnson the Gov-
ernors Groom at Calcutta, that her Mother’s name was Silvia, a
Free Woman, half cast, and she believes that a woman, called Peg
Chapman, her supposed godmother, sent her to service to Mrs. Fay,
then Mantua Maker at Calcutta.” Kitty goes on to say that Mrs.
Fay was following her husband to England and “was intimate with
the Doctor of the Ship going home, and as the Deponent knew of it
Mrs. Fay did not like to keep her” (cf. p. 229). She further com-
plains that she has been left withou
and ill-treated; has now two chil
mother who is said to be alive.

opkeeper, to Avis

This is the worst

t her consent, sold into slavery,
dren and wishes to return to her
The Governor then summoned Mrs.
Fay. In her statement she keeps a dignified silence about the doctor,
merely remarking she left Kitty on the island ‘
bad behaviour as a present to Miss Betty Mason, but did not suppose
she would have been sold.” The Governor took a serious view, and
told Mrs. Fay she must either settle the matter or remain to stand
her trial. Accordingly she drew a Bill for £60 on “my brother
Thomas W. Preston” (presumably her brother-in-law) ; £10 were to
purchase Kitty’s freedom, £40 for her passage with her babies to
Bengal, and £10 for maintenance on arrival.

Slavery was of course still a normal part of Anglo-Oriental life.
“Two Coffree boys, who play remarkably well on the French Horn,
about eighteen years of age: belonging to a Portugese Paddrie
lately deceased. For particulars enquire of the Vicar of the Portu-
gese Church”: thus runs a Calcutta advertisement in 1781. Cf. also
William Hickey’s Nabob (vol. ii.), and the lady presented to him
by Bob Pott. At St. Helena, probably on account of this scandal,

‘on account of her

SS ea Tee
Woe ee fe os Rea,
4

BREET OPESSa et eee

So ea arnt

304 ORIGINAL LETTERS FROM INDIA

regulations were passed which compelled the owners of slaves to
teach them some useful profession and to produce them at Divine
Service at least once a fortnight. (India Office Records, as above;
the volume also records the accident of the stone that fell on

Ladder Hill.)

48 P. 281. Dr. Hare: eminent Calcutta doctor. He treated W.
Hickey.

What are Hartley and Hare to grim Dr. Death
Who moves slowly, but perfects the cure?

Their prescriptions may rob me too soon of my breath
And heighten the pains I endure.

Bengal Gazette, 1780.Alais, T., engraver, 24

Alencgon, Duchess of, 39

Alessandria, 62

Alexandria, visit to, 73-78, 289

Angria, pirate, I4I, 295

Anjengo, 249-50

Artois, Count of, 45

Athanasius, Mosque of, Alexandria,
76, 2890

Ayres, Captain, his crimes and
death, 119-58, 197, 204

Azor and Zemire, horses, 45-66

B r, Mr., an atheist, 34, 45, 66

Baillie, Colonel, 196, 290

Baldwin, Mr., E.I.C., agent at Cairo,
68, 82, 96, 290

Banian tree, 174

Baretto brothers, 67, 289

Barrabola Head, 228, 280

Barrington, Mr., 90-92, 291

Bazette, Miss Molly, 204

“Belvidere,” Calcutta, 183, 297

Bengal Gazette, 296

Bengal Past and Present, 24, 294

Blackheath, 239

Blomer, Mrs., drowned with seven
others, 249

Bombay, visit to, 246-48

Brandy, consul at Alexandria, 74,
94, 290

Brandy, Mrs. and Miss, 77-78

Bristow, James, 295

Buchetta Pass, 62

Budgerows (house-boats), 181

Busteed, Echoes from Old Calcutta,
20

 

C—, Mr. (Mrs. Fay’s father), 9,
87, 201

Cairo, detention in, 83-86

Calais, 35

Calcutta, residence in, 18-24, 180-
228, etc.

Calcutta Gazette, 7, 193, 207

Calicut, imprisonment at, 17, 114-58,
293-295

INDEX OF MAIN REFERENCES

 

395

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
  
  
  
  
  
 
  
  
  
  
  
   
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
  
  
 
  
   
  
  
  
  
   
  
 
 
   
 

Campbell, Mr., 263, 273, 276

Campos, History of the Portuguese
in Bengal, 280

Cape Town, 284-85

Carnatic, 17, 187

Catamaran, boat, 172, 175

Ceylon, 166

Chalons, 52

Chambers, Sir Robert, 19, 183, 206;
his wife and children, 183, 296;
his mother, 221, 297

Chantry, Miss, 199, 204

Chapman, ship, 234-36

Charles I. and IL, reflections on, 58-

59
Chartres, Duke of, 44, 289
Chenu, Captain, 87, 81, 109, 292
Chevalier brothers (de St. Germaine
and de Chilly), 90-94, 291
Chinsurah, 212, 301
Christina of Sweden, thoughts on,

4

Chuckerbutty, Banian Dattaram, 218

Church, Mr., factor at Tellicherry,
150, 204

Churruk Poojah, 216

Cicisbeos, a contemptible institution,
65

Cleopatra, thoughts on, 76

Cochin, stay at, 159-66

Colisée, Paris, 39

Coote, Sir Eyre, 196, 297; his wife,
204, 200

Coxon, Captain, 221

Crowninshield, Captain Jacob, 254-
57; Captain Richard, 257-60

Daniel, a poor Jew, 198

Daniell’s views of Calcutta, 24

Devis, A. W., artist, 24

Downing, Clement, History of the
Indian Wars, 295

Dress, 24, 77, 82, 291

Dubashees, 170

Egypt, adventures in, 73-105; gov-
ernment, 94, 292

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TERS FROM INDIA

Isaac of Calicut, 91, 1 36-37, 198; his

wives, 161-63
Ivory, Patrick, ship-surgeon, 302

306 ORIGINAL LET

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oe AI Ske a sunt ~

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   

Fay, Anthony, 10, 29 seg., 300

Fay, Eliza, passim

Fay, Francis, 10

Firminger, Archdeacon W. K., 8,
299, 301, 302

Fontainbleau, visit to, 47-48

Food, 47, 50; 101, 112, 19%; 199, 243;
245, 247, 250, 297 Oh

Fort at Calicut, 141; Fort William
at Calcutta, 23, 181

Foster, Sir William, 9

Jackson, Dr. and family, 198, 209
Jaggernauth, 180

Jews, delicate situation of, 160
Johanna Island, 246-47

John the Gunner, 117

Julius, ship, 69-73

Keate, An Account of the Pelew

Pay SS = sone ug a
i ae ie laren

B France, 16, 33-5!

a : Francis, Philip, 19, 195, 298 Islands, 25

Mes Franciscan Friar, 72-74 Khalig Canal, Cairo, 85, 291
Franco, Mr., a Jewish merchant, 68 Khansaman, 189

 

ae

Frederick the Great, 144
Freeman, Mr., 11
Fuller, Mr., 106
Funchall, 263-68

Garden Reach, Calcutta, 23, 180
Genoa, visit to, 63-66

Ghee, 176

Goldborne, Miss Sophia, 21
Grant, Charles, 21
Gray, George, 295
Grosvenor, ship, an

LZ , Mrs., 7, 239

Lacey, Benjamin, 253

Lane, Modern Egyptians, 291

Laura (Petrarch’s), her portrait dis-
appointing, 60

Les—r, Captain, 68

Lewin, Mr. and Mrs., 245, 302

Lewis, Captain, 226-33

Lewis, Hare’s servant, 118

Lord Camden, ship, 241

Losach, Mrs., her courage,

Luther, Martin, thoughts on, 59

Lymington,
Lyons, 50

Madras, visits to, 166-78, 270-77,

282,

Mahe, 17, 295

Mamelouks, 292

Manesty, Mr., 111

Marathas, 292

Marie Antoinette, 39, 289

Mason, Mr. and Mrs., of St. Helena,
255, 303

Massulah boat, 171

Minerva, ship, 257-79

Mocha, 105-106

Mont Cenis, 54-57

Moore, Mr., 95, 164, 179

Moreau, Mr., 111

Motte, Mrs., 183

Murray, consul at Funchall, 267
Music ridiculed, 136; approved, 203,

d wreck of, 221,

301
Guernsey, 201-62

Hare, Dr., 281, 304

Hare, Mr., 110-47, 203-94

Harmonicon, Calcutta, 23, 203, 299

Hastings, Warren, 19, 195, 207; is
wife, 183-85, 203, 297

Hellespont, ship,

Henry, ship, 254-57

Hickey, William, diarist, 22, 296

Hicks, Miss (Mrs. Lacey), 241, 251,

303
Hicky, J. A. journalist, 293, 298
Hindu customs, 213-20
Hoogli, 23, 180
Horeb, Mount, 105
Hosea, Mr. and Mrs., 221-24, 30!

Housekeeping at Calcutta, 189-91
Hughes, Sir E., admiral, 224, 302
Hyde, Mr. Justice, 186, 200, 299

Hyder Ali of Mysore, 17, 106 seq.,

204
Idolatry deplored, 180 Natalia, ship, 87-124, 133-35, 291
Impey, Sir Elijah, chief justice, 19, Nayhirs (Nairs), 17, 149, 2905
ee, 185, New York, 288
Nichols, Literary Anecdotes, 290

Ingellee, 228

Irwin, Mrs., a great friend, 234-35 Nicolai, 203Nile, 80, 85

Norberg, Captain, 69, 72
North Naylor, 186, 297
Nuncomar, 19

O’Donnell, Mr., 90, 179, 291
Oratavia, Teneriffe, 269-70

Papistry condemned, 37, 73, 265

Paris, stay in, 38-43

Passavant, Danish Factor at Calicut,
116-17, 293

Paull, Mr., 292

Peekdanees, 162

Pereira, his villainy, 151-55

Petit Chatelet, Paris, 41

Fetrarch’s Laura, 60

Pierot, purser, 112

Pigault de l’Epinoye of Calais, 35

Polygamy condoned, 161-62

Pompey and his Pillar,
upon, 74-75, 289

Popham, Mr., of Madras,
296

Preston, Mrs., 12

Preston, Mr. T. W., 9, 255, 393

Pyramids, 80, 290

thoughts

171-72,

Quelladar of Calicut, 143
R——y, Mr., of Santa Cruz, 272-

73
Ratcliffe, Mrs., 272
“Regulating Act,” 18
Religious discussion, harmlessness of,
193 ve
Ricardo, Father, his villainies, 152-

54
Richardson, Captain, 164
Rogers, Miss, 258-79
Rosalia, ship, 279
Rosetta, 80, 290
Rumbold, Sir Thomas, 167

St. Denis, 37
St. Helena, island, 231-35, 254-55,

303 ee
St. Helena, ship, 163
St. Iago, 275
St. John’s Church, Calcutta, 23,

301
St. Lubin, Chevalier de, 106, 140,

188, 292

INDEX OF MAIN REFERENCES

  
  
 
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
 
  
  
  
  
 
  
  
  
 
  
  
   
 
  
  
  
 
  
 
   
  
 
  
   
     

397
St. Thomas Mount, Madras, 173-74,

296

St. Thome, Madras, 282

Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, 270-73

Sardinia, King of, 60, 289

Schwartz, 294

Scurry, James, 295

Sealy, Mr., 200

Seringapatam, 139

Sir Stephen Lushington, ship, 12,
250

Slave girl at St. Helena, 255, 303

Stephen, Sir J. Fitzjames, 18

Sudder (Sirdar) Khan, governor of
Calicut, 119 seqg., 293-94

Suez, 105

Suffren, Admiral, 17, 224

Supreme Being, 193

Supreme Council, Supreme Court,
Calcutta, 18, 186

Tataravan (litter), 100-104

Taylor, Mr., surgeon, 103-105, 110
III

Tellicherry, 143, 204, 294

Theatre at Turin, 60; at Calcutta,
205, 300

Toddy, 176

Tottingham, Colonel and Mrs., 226

Tripler, Miss, 258

Tulloh, Mr., 12, 109, 292; his wife,
108, II5, 137, 157

Turin, visit to, 58-61

’

Upjohn’s map of Calcutta, 24

Valentine, ship, 226-33

Vanderfield (Van der Velden), Cap-
tain, 90-93, 100, 292

Venice Preserved (Otway’s), 205,
300

Vizagapatam, 281-82

Volney, Voyages en Syrie et en
Egypte, 290

Walker, Captain, 244
Waltair, 282

Watson, Colonel, 20, 209, 300
West, Captain, 127, 197, 205
Wheler, Mrs., 212, 301

Zamorin of Calicut, 143

 

Zoffany, painter, 292

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