(J^.l(t Yale University Library TRAILS ByJOHNMUlR Fi-o-Jtl The Yale Collection of Mountaineering Literature Given in memory of MICHAEL ELLINWOOD CURTIS, '52 1930 - 1957 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY STEEP TRAILS t^.^r-^y^. MOUNTAIN SHEEP (Ovis nelsoni) From a drawing by Allan Brooks STEEP TRAILS BT JOHN MULR r> I EDITED BY "WILLIAM EEEDEEIO BADE With Illustrations BOSTON AND NEW YORK HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY COPYRIGHT, I918, BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANT ALL BIGHTS RESERVED JPuilished September igtS EDITOR'S NOTE The papers brought together in this volume have, in a general way, been arranged in chron ological sequence. They span a period of twenty-nine years of Muir's Ufe, during which they appeared as letters and articles, for the most part in publications of limited and local circulation. The Utah and Nevada sketches, and the two San Gabriel papers, were con tributed, in the form of letters, to the San Francisco Evening Bulletin toward the end of the seventies. Written in the field, they pre serve the freshness of the author's first impres sions of those regions. Much of the material in the chapters on Mount Shasta first took similar shape in 1874. Subsequently it was rewritten and much expanded for inclusion in Picturesque California, and the Region West of the Rocky Mountains, which Muir began to edit in 1888. In the same work appeared the de scription of Washington and Oregon. The charming httle essay "Wild Wool" was writ ten for the Overland Monthly in 1875. "A Geologist's Winter Walk" is an extract from a letter to a friend, who, appreciating its fine Uterary quality, took the responsibiUty of send- EDITOR'S NOTE ing it to the Overland Monthly without the author's knowledge. The concluding chapter on "The Grand Canon of the Colorado" was published in the Century Magazine in 1902, and exhibits Muir's powers of description at their maturity. Some of these papers were revised by the author during the later years of his life, and these revisions are a part of the form in which they now appear. The chapters on Mount Shasta, Oregon, and Washington will be found to contain occasional sentences and a few paragraphs that were included, more or less verbatim, in The Mountains of California and Our National Parks. Being an important part of their present context, these paragraphs could not be omitted without impairing the unity of the author's descriptions. The editor feels confident that this volrnne will meet, in every way, the high expectations of Muir's readers. The recital of his experi ences during a storm night on the summit of Mount Shasta will take rank among the most thrilling of his records of adventure. His observations on the dead towns of Nevada, and on the Indians gathering their harvest of pine-nuts, recall a phase of Western life that has left few traces in American literature. Many, too, will read with pensive interest the EDITOR'S NOTE author's glowing description of what was one time called the New Northwest. Almost in conceivably great have been the changes wrought in that region during the past gener ation. Henceforth the landscapes that Muir saw there will five in good part only in his writings, for fire, axe, plough, and gunpowder have made away with the supposedly bound less forest wildernesses and their teeming life. William Frederic BadJ: Berkeley, Califoenia May, 1918 CONTENTS I. Wild Wool 3 II. A Geologist's Winter Walk . . 19 III. Summer Days at Mount Shasta . 29 IV. A Perilous Night on Shasta's Sum mit 57 V. Shasta Rambles and Modoc Memo ries 82 VI. The Citt of the Saints . . . 105 VII. A Great Storm in Utah . . .114 VIII. Bathing in Salt Lake .... 121 IX. Mormon Lilies 126 X. The San Gabriel Valley . . .136 XL The San Gabriel Mountains . . 145 XII. Nevada Farms 154 XIII. Nevada Forests 164 XIV. Nevada's Timber Belt . . . .174 XV. Glacial Phenomena in Nevada . 184 XVI. Nevada's Dead Towns . . . .195 XVII. PuGBT Sound 204 XVIII. The Forests of WAsmNGTON . . 227 ix CONTENTS XIX. People and Towns of Puget Sound 248 XX. An Ascent of Mount Rainier . 261 XXI. The Physical and Climatic Char acteristics of Oregon . . . 271 XXII. The Forests of Oregon and Their Inhabitants 299 XXIII. The Rivers of Oregon . . . .327 XXIV. The Grand Canon op the Colorado 347 Index 383 ILLUSTRATIONS Mountain Sheep {Ovis nelsoni) . . . Frontispiece From a drawing hy Allan Brooks, reproduced hy per mission of the State Fish and Game Commission of Califomia. Tissiack fbom Glacier Point: Tenata Canon . 20 Mount Shasta after a Snowstorm .... 30 Photograph hy PiUsbury's Pictures, Inc., of San Francisco At Shasta Soda Springs 48 In the Wahsatch Mountains 106 Sego Lilies (Calochortut NuUalKi) .... 134 San Gabkiel Valley 138 The Sage Levels of the Nevada Desert . .168 Mount Rainier from the Soda Springs , . . 262 The Oregon Sea-Bluffs 274 Cape Horn, Columbia River 340 The Grand Canon at O'Neill's Point . . .348 AU but the first three iUustrationt are from photo graphs by Herbert W. Gleason STEEP TRAILS STEEP TRAILS I WILD WOOL Moral improvers have calls to preach. I have a friend who has a call to plough, and woe to the daisy sod or azalea thicket that falls under the savage redemption of his keen steel shares. Not content with the so-called subjugation of every terrestrial bog, rock, and moorland, he would fain discover some method of reclamation appUcable to the ocean and the sky, that in due calendar time they might be brought to bud and blossom as the rose. Our efforts are of no avail when we seek to turn his attention to wild roses, or to the fact that both ocean and sky are already about as rosy as possible — the one with stars, the other with dulse, and foam, and wild light. The practical developments of his culture are orchards and clover-fields wearing a smiling, benevolent aspect, truly excellent in their way, though a near view discloses something barbarous in them all. Wildness charms not my friend, charm it never so wisely : and whatsoever may be the character of his heaven, his earth seems 3 STEEP TRAILS only a chaos of agricultural possibilities calling for grubbing-hoes and manures. Sometimes I venture to approach him with a plea for wildness, when he good-naturedly shakes a big mellow apple in my face, reiterat ing his favorite aphorism, "Culture is an orchard apple; Nature is a crab." Not all cul ture, however, is equally destructive and inap- preciative. Azure skies and crystal waters find loving recognition, and few there be who would welcome the axe among mountain pines, or would care to apply any correction to the tones and costumes of mountain waterfalls. Never theless, the barbarous notion is almost univer sally entertained by civilized man, that there is in all the manufactures of Nature some thing essentially coarse which can and must be eradicated by human culture. I was, therefore, delighted in finding that the wild wool growing upon mountain sheep in the neighborhood of Mount Shasta was much finer than the aver age grades of cultivated wool. This fine dis covery was made some three months ago,^ while hunting among the Shasta sheep between Shasta and Lower Klamath Lake. Three fleeces were obtained — one that belonged to a large ram about four years old, another to a ewe about the same age, and another to » ^ This essay was written early in 1875. [Editor.] 4 WILD WOOL yearling lamb. After parting their beautiful wool on the side and many places along the back, shoulders, and hips, and examining it closely with my lens, I shouted: "Well done for wildness! Wild wool is finer than tame!" My companions stooped down and examined the fleeces for themselves, pulling out tufts and ringlets, spinning them between their fingers, and measuring the length of the staple, each in turn paying tribute to wildness. It was finer, and no mistake; finer than Spanish Merino. Wild wool is finer than tame. "Here," said I, "is an argument for fine wildness that needs no explanation. Not that such arguments are by any means rare, for all wildness is finer than tameness, but because fine wool is appreciable by everybody alike — from the most speculative president of na tional wool-growers' associations aU the way down to the gude-wife spinning by her ingle- side," Nature is a good mother, and sees well to the clothing of her many bairns — birds with smoothly imbricated feathers, beetles with shining jackets, and bears with shaggy furs. In the tropical south, where the sua warms like a fire, they are allowed to go thinly clad; but in the snowy northland she takes care to clothe warmly. The squirrel has socks and 5 STEEP TRAILS mittens, and a tail broad enough for a blanket; the grouse is densely feathered down to the ends of his toes; and the wild sheep, besides his undergarment of fine wool, has a thick overcoat of hair that sheds off both the snow and the rain. Other provisions and adaptations in the dresses of animals, relating less to climate than to the more mechanical circumstances of life, are made with the same consummate skill that characterizes all the love-work of Nature. Land, water, and air, jagged rocks, muddy ground, sand-beds, forests, underbrush, grassy plains, etc., are considered in all their possible combinations while the clothing of her beauti ful wildlings is preparing. No matter what the circumstances of their lives may be, she never allows them to go dirty or ragged. The mole, living always in the dark and in the dirt, is yet as clean as the otter or the wave-washed seal; and our wild sheep, wading in snow, roaming through bushes, and leaping among jagged storm-beaten cliffs, wears a dress so exquisitely adapted to its mountain life that it is always found as unruffled and stainless as a bird. On leaving the Shasta hunting-grounds I selected a few specimen tufts, and brought them away with a view to making more lei surely examinations; but, owing to the ioaper- 6 WILD WOOL fectness of the instruments at my command, the results thus far obtained must be regarded only as rough approximations. As already stated, the clothing of our wild sheep is composed of fine wool and coarse hair. The hairs are from about two to four inches long, mostly of a dull bluish-gray color, though varying somewhat with the seasons. In gen eral characteristics they are closely related to the hairs of the deer and antelope, being light, spongy, and elastic, with a highly polished surface, and though somewhat ridged and spi- raled, like wool, they do not manifest the slightest tendency to felt or become taggy. A hair two and a half inches long, which is per haps near the average length, will stretch about one fourth of an inch before breaking. The diameter decreases rapidly both at the top and bottom, but is maintained throughout the greater portion of the length with a fair degree of regularity. The slender tapering point in which the hairs terminate is nearly black: but, owing to its fineness as compared with the main trunk, the quantity of black ness is not sufficient to affect greatly the gen eral color. The number of hairs growing upon a squareinchisabout ten thousand; the number of wool fibers is about twenty-five thousand, or two and a half times that of the hairs. The 7 STEEP TRAILS wool fibers are white and glossy, and beauti fully spired into ringlets. The average length of the staple is about an inch and a half. A fiber of this length, when growing undisturbed down among the hairs, measures about an inch; hence the degree of curiiness may easily be inferred. I regret exceedingly that my in struments do not enable me to measure the diameter of the fibers, in order that their degrees of fineness might be definitely com pared with each other and with the finest of the domestic breeds; but that the three wild fleeces under consideration are considerably finer than the average grades of Merino shipped from San Francisco is, I think, un questionable. When the fleece is parted and looked into with a good lens, the skin appears of a beauti ful pale-yellow color, and the delicate wool fibers are seen growing up among the strong hairs, like grass among stalks of corn, every individual fiber being protected about as spe cially and effectively as if inclosed in a sepa rate husk. Wild wool is too fine to stand by itself, the fibers being about as frail and invisi ble as the floating threads of spiders, while the hairs against which they lean stand erect like hazel wands; but, notwithstanding their great dissimilarity in size and appearance, the wool 8 WILD WOOL and hair are forms of the same thing, modified in just that way and to just that degree that renders them most perfectly subservient to the well-being of the sheep. Furthermore, it will be observed that these wild modifications are entirely distinct from those which are brought chancingly into existence through the acci dents and caprices of culture; the former being inventions of God for the attainment of defi nite ends. Like the modifications of limbs — the fin for swimming, the wing for flying, the foot for walking — so the fine wool for warmth, the hair for additional warmth and to protect the wool, and both together for a fabric to wear well in mountain roughness and wash well in mountain storms. The effects of human culture upon wild wool are analogous to those produced upon wild roses. In the one case there is an abnormal development of petals at the expense of the stamens, in the other an abnormal develop ment of wool at the expense of the hair. Garden roses frequently exhibit stamens in which the transmutation to petals may be observed in various stages of accomplishment, and analogously the fleeces of tame sheep occasionally contain a few wild hairs that are undergoing transmutation to wool. Even wild wool presents here and there a fiber that 9 STEEP TRAILS appears to be in a state of change. In the course of my examinations of the wild fleeces mentioned above, three fibers were found that were wool at one end and hair at the other. This, however, does not necessarily imply imperfection, or any process of change similar to that caused by human culture. Water-lilies contain parts variously developed into stamens at one end, petals at the other, as the constant and normal condition. These half wool, half hair fibers may therefore subserve some fixed requirement essential to the perfection of the whole, or they may simply be the fine boundary- lines where an exact balance between the wool and the hair is attained. I have been offering samples of mountain wool to my friends, demanding in return that the fineness of wildness be fairly recognized and confessed, but the returns are deplorably tame. The first question asked is, "Now truly, wild sheep, wild sheep, have you any wool?" while they peer curiously down among the hairs through lenses and spectacles. "Yes, wild sheep, you have wool; but Mary's lamb had more. In the name of use, how many wild sheep, think you, would be required to furnish wool sufficient for a pair of socks? " I endeavor to point out the irrelevancy of the latter ques tion, arguing that wild wool was not made for 10 WILD WOOL man but for sheep, and that, however deficient as clothing for other animals, it is just the thing for the brave mountain-dweller that wears it. Plain, however, as all this appears, the quan tity question rises again and again in all its commonplace tameness. For in my experience it seems well-nigh impossible to obtain a hear ing on behalf of Nature from any other stand point than that of human use. Domestic flocks yield more flannel per sheep than the wild, therefore it is claimed that culture has im proved upon wildness; and so it has as far as flannel is concerned, but all to the contrary as far as a sheep's dress is concerned. If every wild sheep inhabiting the Sierra were to put on tame wool, probably only a few would sur vive the dangers of a single season. With their fine limbs muffled and buried beneath a tangle of hairless wool, they would become short- winded, and fall an easy prey to the strong mountain wolves. In descending precipices they would be thrown out of balance and killed, by their taggy wool catching upon sharp points of rocks. Disease would also be brought on by the dirt which always finds a lodgment in tame wool, and by the draggled and water-soaked condition into which it falls during stormy weather. No dogma taught by the present civilization 11 STEEP TRAILS seems to form so insuperable an obstacle in the way of a right understanding of the rela tions which culture sustains to wildness as that which regards the world as made especially for the uses of man. Every animal, plant, and crystal controverts it in the plainest terms. Yet it is taught from century to century as something ever new and precious, and in the resulting darkness the enormous conceit is allowed to go unchallenged. I have never yet happened upon a trace of evidence that seemed to show that any one animal was ever made for another as much as it was made for itself. Not that Nature mani fests any such thing as selfish isolation. In the making of every animal the presence of every other animal has been recognized. Indeed, every atom in creation may be said to be ac quainted with and married to every other, but with imiversal union there is a division suffi cient in degree for the purposes of the most intense individuality; no matter, therefore, what may be the note which any creature forms in the song of existence, it is made first for itself, then more and more remotely for all the world and worlds. Were it not for the exercise of individualizing cares on the part of Nature, the universe would be felted together like a fleece of tame wool. 12 WILD WOOL But we are governed more than we know, and most when we are wildest. Plants, animals, and stars are all kept in place, bridled along appointed ways, with one another, and through the midst of one another — killing and being killed, eating and being eaten, in harmonious proportions and quantities. And it is right that we should thus reciprocally make use of one another, rob, cook, and consume, to the utmost of our healthy abiUties and desires. Stars attract one another as they are able, and harmony results. Wild lambs eat as many wild flowers as they can find or desire, and men and wolves eat the lambs to just the same extent. This consumption of one another in its vari ous modifications is a kind of culture varying with the degree of directness with which it is carried out, but we should be careful not to ascribe to such culture any improving qualities upon those on whom it is brought to bear. The water-ouzel plucks moss from the river-bank to build its nest, but it does not improve the moss by plucking it. We pluck feathers from birds, and less directly wool from wild sheep, for the manufacture of clothing and cradle- nests, without improAdng the wool for the sheep, or the feathers for the bird that wore them. When a hawk poimces upon a Unnet and pro- 13 STEEP TRAILS ceeds to pull out its feathers, preparatory to making a meal, the hawk may be said to be cultivating the linnet, and he certainly does effect an improvement as far as hawk-food is concerned; but what of the songster? He ceases to be a linnet as soon as he is snatched from the woodland choir; and when, hawklike, we snatch the wild sheep from its native rock, and, instead of eating and wearing it at once, carry- it home, and breed the hair out of its wool and the bones out of its body, it ceases to be a sheep. These breeding and plucking processes are similarly improving as regards the secondary uses aimed at; and, although the one requires but a few minutes for its accompUshment, the other many years or centuries, they are essen tially alike. We eat wild oysters aUve with great directness, waiting for no cultivation, and leaving scarce a second of distance between the shell and the lip; but we take wild sheep home and subject them to the many extended processes of husbandry, and finish by boiling them in a pot — a process which completes all sheep improvements as far as man is con cerned. It will be seen, therefore, that wild wool and tame wool — wild sheep and tame sheep — are terms not properly comparable, nor are they in any correct sense to be con- 14 WILD WOOL sidered as bearing any antagonism toward each other; they are different things, planned and accomplished for wholly different pur poses. Illustrative examples bearing upon this inter esting subject may be multiplied indefinitely, for they abound everywhere in the plant and animal kingdoms wherever culture has reached. Recurring for a moment to apples. The beauty and completeness of a wild apple tree living its own life in the woods is heartily acknowledged by all those who have been so happy as to form its acquaintance. The fine wild piquancy of its fruit is unrivaled, but in the great question of quantity as human food wild apples are found wanting. Man, therefore, takes the tree from the woods, manures and prunes and grafts, plans and guesses, adds a little of this and that, selects and rejects, until apples of every conceivable size and softness are pro duced, like nut-galls in response to the irritat ing punctures of insects. Orchard apples are to me the most eloquent words that culture has ever spoken, but they reflect no imperfec tion upon Nature's spicy crab. Every culti vated apple is a crab, not improved, but cooked, variously softened and swelled out in the process, mellowed, sweetened, spiced, and ren dered pulpy and foodful, but as utterly unfit 15 STEEP TRAILS for the uses of nature as a meadowlark killed and plucked and roasted. Give to Nature every cultured apple — codling, pippin, russet — and every sheep so laboriously compounded — - muffled Southdowns, hairy Cotswolds, wrin kled Merinos — and she would throw the one to her caterpillars, the other to her wolves. It is now some thirty-six hundred years since Jacob kissed his mother and set out across the plains of Padan-aram to begin his ex periments upon the flocks of his uncle, Laban; and, notwithstanding the high degree of excel lence he attained as a wool-grower, and the innumerable painstaking efforts subsequently made by individuals and associations in all kinds of pastures and clunates, we still seem to be as far from definite and satisfactory re sults as we ever were. In one breed the wool is apt to wither and crinkle like hay on a sun- beaten hillside. In another, it is lodged and matted together Uke the lush tangled grass of a manured meadow. In one the staple is defi cient in length, in another in fineness ; while in all there is a constant tendency toward disease, rendering various washings and dippings indis pensable to prevent its falling out. The prob lem of the quality and quantity of the carcass seems to be as doubtful and as far removed from a satisfactory solution as that of the wool. 16 WLLD WOOL Desirable breeds blundered upon by long series of groping experiments are often found to be unstable and subject to disease — bots, foot-rot, blind-staggers, etc. — causing infinite trouble, both among breeders and manufac turers. Would it not be well, therefore, for some one to go back as far as possible and take a fresh start? The source or sources whence the various breeds were derived is not positively known, but there can be hardly any doubt of their being descendants of the four or five wild species so generally distributed throughout the mountainous portions of the globe, the marked differences between the wild and domestic spe cies being readily accounted for by the known variability of the animal, and by the long series of painstaking selection to which all its char acteristics have been subjected. No other animal seems to yield so submissively to the manipulations of culture. Jacob controlled the color of his flocks merely by causing them to stare at objects of the desired hue; and pos sibly Merinos may have caught their wrinkles from the perplexed brows of their breeders. The California species {Ovis montanaY is a ^ The wild sheep of California are now classified as Ovis nelsoni. Whether those of the Shasta region belonged to the latter species, or to the bighorn species of Oregon, Idaho, and Washington, is still an unsettled question. [Editor.] 17 STEEP TRAILS noble animal, weighing when full-grown some three hundred and fifty pounds, and is well worthy the attention of wool-growers as a point from which to make a new departure, for pure wildness is the one great want, both of men and of sheep. II A geologist's winter walk! After reaching Turlock, I sped afoot over the stubble fields and through miles of brown bemizonia and purple erigeron, to Hopeton, conscious of little more than that the town was behind and beneath me, and the moun tains above and before me; on through the oaks and chaparral of the foothills to Coulter- ville; and then ascended the first great moun tain step upon which grows the sugar pine. Here I slackened pace, for I drank the spicy, resiny wind, and beneath the arms of this noble tree I felt that I was safely home. Never did pine trees seem so dear. How sweet was their breath and their song, and how grandly they winnowed the sky! I tingled my fingers among their tassels, and rustled my feet among their brown needles and burrs, and was exhilarated and joyful beyond all I can write. When I reached Yosemite, all the rocks seemed talkative, and more telUng and lovable than ever. They are dear friends, and seemed to have warm blood gushing through their ^ An excerpt from a letter to a friend, written in 1873. [Editor.] 19 STEEP TRAILS granite flesh ; and I love them with a love inten sified by long and close companionship. After I had bathed in the bright river, sauntered over the meadows, conversed with the domes, and played with the pines, I still felt blurred and weary, as if tainted in some way with the sky of your streets. I determined, therefore, to run out for a while to say my prayers in the higher mountain temples. "The days are sun- ful," I said, "and, though now winter, no great danger need be encountered, and no sudden storm will block my return, if I am watchful." The morning after this decision, I started up the canon of Tenaya, caring Uttle about the quantity of bread I carried; for, I thought, a fast and a storm and a difficult canon were just the medicine I needed. When I passed Mirror Lake, I scarcely noticed it, for I was absorbed in the great Tissiack — her crown a mile away in the hushed azure; her purple granite drapery flowing in soft and graceful folds down to my feet, embroidered gloriously around with deep, shadowy forest. I have gazed on Tissiack a thousand times — in days of solemn storms, and when her form shone divine with the jewelry of winter, or was veiled in living clouds; and I have heard her voice of winds, and snowy, tuneful waters when floods 20 TISSIACK FROM GLACIER POINT: TENAYA CANON ON THE LEFT A GEOLOGIST'S WLN^TER WALK were falling; yet never did her soul reveal itself more impressively than now, I hung about her skirts, Ungering timidly, until the higher mountains and glaciers compeUed me to push up the canon. This canon is accessible only to mountain eers, and I was anxious to carry my barometer and clinometer through it, to obtain sections and altitudes, so I chose it as the most attrac tive highway. After I had passed the taU groves that stretch a mile above Mirror Lake, and scrambled around the Tenaya Fall, which is just at the head of the lake groves, I crept through the dense and spiny chaparral that plushes the roots of the mountains here for miles in warm green, and was ascending a precipitous rock-front, smoothed by glacial action, when I suddenly fell — for the first time since I touched foot to Sierra rocks. After several somersaults, I became insensible from the shock, and when consciousness returned I found myself wedged among short, stiff bushes, trembling as if cold, not injured in the sUghtest. Judging by the sun, I could not have been insensible very long; probably not a minute, possibly an hour; and I could not remember what made me fall, or where I had fallen from; but I saw that if I had rolled a little further, my mountain-cUmbing would have been fin- 21 STEEP TRAILS ished, for just beyond the bushes the canon wall steepened and I might have faUen to the bottom. "There," said I, addressing my feet, to whose separate skill I had learned to trust night and day on any mountain, "that is what you get by intercourse with stupid town stairs, and dead pavements." I felt degraded and worthless. I had not yet reached the most dif ficult portion of the canon, but I determined to guide my humbled body over the most nerve- trjdng places I could find; for I was now awake, and felt confident that the last of the town fog had been shaken from both head and feet. I camped at the mouth of a narrow gorge which is cut into the bottom of the main canon, determined to take earnest exercise next day. No plushy boughs did my ill-behaved bones enjoy that night, nor did my bumped head get a spicy cedar plume pillow mixed with flowers. I slept on a naked boulder, and when I awoke all my nervous trembUng was gone. The gorged portion of the canon, in which I spent all the next day, is about a mile and a half in length; and I passed the time in tracing the action of the forces that determined this pecuUar bottom gorge, which is an abrupt, ragged-waUed, narrow-throated canon, formed in the bottom of the wide-mouthed, smooth, and beveled main canon. I will not stop now 22 A GEOLOGIST'S WINTER WALK to tell you more; some day you may see it, like a shadowy line, from Cloud's Rest. In high water, the stream occupies all the bottom of the gorge, surging and chafing in glorious power from wall to wall. But the sound of the grinding was low as I entered the gorge, scarcely hoping to be able to pass through its entire length. By cool efforts, along glassy, ice-worn slopes, I reached the upper end in a little over a day, but was compelled to pass the second night in the gorge, and in the moonlight I wrote you this short pencil-letter in my notebook: — The moon is looking down into the canon, and how marvelously the great roclis Idndle to her light! Every dome, and brow, and swelling boss touched by her white rays, glows as if lighted with snow. I am now only a mile from last night's camp; and have been climbing and sketching all day in this difficult but instructive gorge. It is formed in the bottom of the main canon, among the roots of Cloud's Rest. It begins at the filled-up lake-basin where I camped last night, and ends a few hundred yards above, in another basin of the same kind. The walls everywhere are craggy and vertical, and in some places they overlean. It is only from twenty to sixty feet wide, and not, though black and broken enough, the thin, crooked mouth of some mysterious abyss; but it was eroded, for in many places I saw its solid, seamless floor. I am sitting on a big stone, against which the stream divides, and goes brawling by in rapids on 23 STEEP TRAILS both sides; half of my rock is white in the light, half in shadow. As I look from the opening jaws of this shadowy gorge, South Dome is immediately in front — high in the stars, her face turned from the moon, with the rest of her body gloriously muffled in waved folds of granite. On the left, sculptured from the main Cloud's Rest ridge, are three mag nificent roclss, sisters of the great South Dome, On the right is the massive, moonlit front of Mount Watldns, and between, low down in the furthest distance, is Sentinel Dome, girdled and darkened with forest. In the near foreground Tenaya Creek is singing against boulders that are white with snow and moonbeams. Now look back twenty yards, and you will see a waterfall fair as a spirit; the moonlight just touches it, bringing it into relief against a dark background of shadow. A little to the left, and a dozen steps this side of the fall, a flickering light marks my camp — and a precious camp it is. A huge, glacier-polished slab, falUng from the smooth, glossy flank of Cloud's Rest, hap pened to settle on edge against the wall of the gorge. I did not know that this slab was glacier-polished until I lighted my fire. Judge of my delight. I think it was sent here by an earthquake. It is about twelve feet square. I wish I could take it home^ for a hearthstone. Beneath this slab is the only place in this torrent-swept gorge where I could find sand sufficient for a bed. I expected to sleep on the boulders, for I spent most of the afternoon on the slippery wall of the canon, endeavoring to get around this difficult part 1 Muir at this time was making Yosemite Valley his home. tEditor.] 24 A GEOLOGIST'S WINTER WALK of the gorge, and was compelled to hasten down here for water before dark. I shall sleep soundly on this sand; half of it is mica. Here, wonderful to behold, are a few green stems of prickly rubus, and a tiny grass. They are here to meet us. Ay, even here in this darksome gorge, "frightened and tor mented" with raging torrents and choking ava lanches of snow. Can it be? As if rubus and the grass leaf were not enough of God's tender prattle words of love, which we so much need in these mighty temples of power, yonder in the "benmost bore" are two blessed adiantums. Listen to them! How wholly infused with God is this one big word of love that we call the world! Good-night. Do you see the fire-glow on my ice-smoothed slab, and on my two ferns and the rubus and grass panicles? And do you hear how sweet a sleep-song the fall and cascades are singing? The water-ground chips and knots that I found fastened between the rocks kept my fire aUve all through the night. Next morning I rose nerved and ready for another day of sketching and noting, and any form of climbing. I escaped from the gorge about noon, after accomplishing some of the most delicate feats of mountaineering I ever attempted; and here the canon is all broadly open again — the floor luxuriantly forested with pine, and spruce, and silver fir, and brown-trunked Ubrocedrus. The waUs rise in Yosemite forms, and Tenaya Creek comes down seven hundred feet in a 25 STEEP TRAILS white brush of foam. This is a little Yosemite valley. It is about two thousand feet above the level of the main Yosemite, and about twenty- four hundred below Lake Tenaya. I found the lake frozen, and the ice was so clear and unruffled that the surrounding moun tains and the groves that look down upon it were reflected almost as perfectly as I ever beheld them in the calm evening mirrors of summer. At a Uttle distance, it was difficult to believe the lake frozen at all; and when I walked out on it, cautiously stamping at short intervals to test the strength of the ice, I seemed to walk mysteriously, without ade quate faith, on the surface of the water. The ice was so transparent that I could see through it the beautifully wave-rippled, sandy bottom, and the sqales of mica glinting back the down- pouring light. When I knelt down with my face close to the ice, through which the sun beams were pouring, I was deUghted to dis cover myriads of TyndaU's six-rayed water flowers, magnificently colored, A grand old mountain mansion is this Tenaya region! In the glacier period it was a mer de glace, far grander than the mer de glace of Switzerland, which is only about half a mile broad. The Tenaya mer de glace was not less than two miles broad, late in the glacier epoch, 26 A GEOLOGIST'S WINTER WALK when all the principal dividing crests were bare; and its depth was not less than fifteen hundred feet. Ice-streams from Mounts Lyell and Dana, and all the mountains between, and from the nearer Cathedral Peak, flowed hither, welded into one, and worked together. After eroding this Tenaya Lake basin, and all the splendidly sculptured rocks and mountains that surround and adorn it, and the great Tenaya Canon, with its wealth of all that makes mountains sublime, they were welded with the vast South, Lyell, and lUilouette glaciers on one side, and with those of Hoffman on the other — thus forming a portion of a yet grander mer de glace in Yosemite Valley. I reached the Tenaya Canon, on my way home, by coming in from the northeast, ram bling down over the shoulders of Mount Wat- kins, touching bottom a mile above Mirror Lake. From thence home was but a saunter in the moonlight. After resting one day, and the weather con tinuing calm, I ran up over the left shoulder of South Dome and down in front of its grand split face to make some measurements, com pleted my work, climbed to the right shoulder, struck off along the ridge for Cloud's Rest, and reached the topmost heave of her sunny wave in ample time to see the sunset. 27 STEEP TRAILS Cloud's Rest is a thousand feet higher than Tissiack. It is a waveUke crest upon a ridge, which begins at Yosemite with Tissiack, and runs continuously eastward to the thicket of peaks and crests around Lake Tenaya. This lofty granite wall is bent this way and that by the restless and weariless action of glaciers just as if it had been made of dough. But the grand circumference of mountains and forests are coming from far and near, densing into one close assemblage; for the sun, their god and father, with love ineffable, is glowing a sunset farewell. Not one of all the assembled rocks or trees seemed remote. How impres sively their faces shone with responsive love! I ran home in the moonUght with firm strides; for the sun-love made me strong. Down through the junipers; down through the fixs; now in jet shadows, now in white Ught; over sandy moraines and bare, clanking rocks; past the huge ghost of South Dome risiog weird through the firs; past the glorious fall of Nevada, the groves of lUilouette; through the pines of the vaUey; beneath the bright crystal sky blazing with stars. All of this moimtain wealth in one day! — one of the rich ripe days that enlarge one's life; so much of the sun upon one side of it, so much of the moon and stars on the other. Ill SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA Mount Shasta rises in solitary grandeur from the edge of a comparatively low and Ughtly sculptured lava plain near the northern extremity of the Sierra, and maintains a far more impressive and commanding individual ity than any other mountain within the limits of CaUfomia, Go where you may, within a radius of from fifty to a hundred miles or more, there stands before you the colossal cone of Shasta, clad in ice and snow, the one grand, unmistakable landmark — the pole-star of the landscape. Far to the southward Mount Whitney lifts its granite summit four or five hundred feet higher than Shasta, but it is nearly snowless during the late summer, and is so feebly individualized that the traveler may search for it in vain among the many rival peaks crowded along the axis of the range to north and south of it, which all aUke are crumbling residual masses brought into relief in the degradation of the general mass of the range. The highest point on Mount Shasta, as determined by the State Geological Survey, is 14,440 feet above mean tide. That of Whit- 29 STEEP TRAILS ney, computed from fewer observations, is about 14,900 feet. But inasmuch as the aver age elevation of the plain out of which Shasta rises is only about four thousand feet above the sea, while the actual base of the peak of Mount Whitney lies at an elevation of eleven thousand feet, the individual height of the former is about two and a half times as great as that of the latter. Approaching Shasta from the south, one obtains glimpses of its snowy cone here and there through the trees from the tops of hills and ridges; but it is not until Strawberry Valley is reached, where there is a grand out- opening of the forests, that Shasta is seen in all its glory, from base to crown clearly re vealed with its wealth of woods and waters and fountain snow, rejoicing in the bright mountain sky, and radiating beauty on all the subject landscape like a sun. Standing in a fringing thicket of purple spiraea in the imme diate foreground is a smooth expanse of green meadow with its meandering stream, one of the smaller affluents of the Sacramento; then a zone of dark, close forest, its countless spires of pine and fir rising above one another on the swelUng base of the mountain in glorious array; and, over all, the great white cone sweeping far into the thin, keen sky — meadow, 30 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA forest, and grand icy summit harmoniously blending and making one subUme picture evenly balanced. The main fines of the landscape are im mensely bold and simple, and so regular that it needs all its shaggy wealth of woods and chaparral and its finely tinted ice and snow and brown jutting crags to keep it from looking conventional. In general views of the moun tain three distinct zones may be readily de fined. The first, which may be called the Chaparral Zone, extends around the base in a magnificent sweep nearly a hundred miles in length on its lower edge, and with a breadth of about seven miles. It is a dense growth of chaparral from three to six or eight feet high, composed chiefly of manzanita, cherry, chin- capin, and several species of ceanothus, called deerbrush by the hunters, forming, when in full bloom, one of the most glorious flower-beds conceivable. The continuity of this flowery zone is interrupted here and there, especially on the south side of the mountain, by wide swaths of coniferous trees, chiefly the sugar and yeUow pines, Douglas spruce, silver fir, and incense cedar, many specimens of which are two hundred feet high and five to seven feet in diameter. Goldenrods, asters, giUas, UUes, and lupines, with many other less con- si STEEP TRAILS spicuous plants, occur in warm sheltered open ings in these lower woods, making charming gardens of wildness where bees and butterflies are at home and many a shy bird and squirrel. The next higher is the Fir Zone, made up almost exclusively of two species of silver fir. It is from two to three miles wide, has an average elevation above the sea of some six thousand feet on its lower edge and eight thou sand on its upper, and is the most regular and best defined of the three. The Alpine Zone has a rugged, straggling growth of storm-beaten dwarf pines {Pinus albicaulis), which forms the upper edge of the timber-line. This species reaches an elevation of about nine thousand feet, but at this height the tops of the trees rise only a few feet into the thin frosty air, and are closely pressed and shorn by wind and snow; yet they hold on bravely and put forth an abundance of beauti ful purple flowers and produce cones and seeds. Down towards the edge of the fir belt they stand erect, forming small, well-formed trunks, and are associated with the taller two- leafed and mountain pines and the beautiful WiUiamson spruce. Bryanthus, a beautiful flowering heathwort, flourishes a few hundred feet above the timber-line, accompanied with kahnia and spiraea. Lichens enliven the faces 32 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA of the cUffs with their bright colors, and in some of the warmer nooks of the rocks, up to a height of eleven thousand feet, there are a few tufts of dwarf daisies, wall-flowers, and penstemons; but, notwithstanding these bloom freely, they make no appreciable show at a dis tance, and the stretches of rough brown lava beyond the storm-beaten trees seem as bare of vegetation as the great snow-fields and glaciers of the summit, Shasta is a fire-mountain, an old volcano graduaUy accumulated and built up into the blue deep of the sky by successive eruptions of ashes and molten lava which, shot high in the air and falling in darkening showers, and flow ing from chasms and craters, grew outward and upward like the trunk of a knotty, bulging tree. Not in one grand convulsion was Shasta given birth, nor in any one special period of volcanic storm and stress, though mountains more than a thousand feet in height have been cast up like mole-hills in a night — quick contributions to the wealth of the landscapes, and most em phatic statements, on the part of Nature, of the gigantic character of the power that dwells beneath the dull, dead-looking surface of the earth. But sections cut by the glaciers, dis playing some of the internal framework of Shasta, show that comparatively long periods 33 STEEP TRAILS of quiescence intervened between many dis tinct eruptions, during which the cooUng lavas ceased to flow, and took their places as perma nent additions to the bulk of the growing mountain. Thus with alternate haste and deliberation eruption succeeded eruption, until Mount Shasta surpassed even its present sub Ume height. Then followed a strange contrast. The gla cial winter came on. The sky that so often had been darkened with storms of cinders and ashes and lighted by the glare of volcanic fires was filled with crystal snow-flowers, which, loading the cooling mountain, gave birth to glaciers that, uniting edge to edge, at length formed one grand conical glacier — a down- crawling mantle of ice upon a fountain of smouldering fire, crushing and grinding its brown, ffinty lavas, and thus degrading and remodeling the entire mountain from summit to base. How much denudation and degrada tion has been effected we have no means of determining, the porous, crumbUng rocks being ill adapted for the reception and preser vation of glacial inscriptions. The summit is now a mass of ruins, and all the finer striations have been effaced from the flanks by post-glacial weathering, whUe the irregularity of its lavas as regards susceptibility 34 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA to erosion, and the disturbance caused by inter- and post-glacial eruptions, have ob scured or obUterated those heavier characters of the glacial record found so clearly in scribed upon the granite pages of the high Sierra between latitude 36° 30' and 39°. This much, however, is plain: that the summit of the mountain was considerably lowered, and the sides were deeply grooved and fluted while it was a center of dispersal for the glaciers of the circumjacent region. And when at length the glacial period began to draw near its close, the ice mantle was gradually melted off around the base of the mountain, and in receding and breaking up into its present fragmentary con dition the irregular heaps and rings of moraine matter were stored upon its flanks on which the forests are growing. The glacial erosion of most of the Shasta lavas gives rise to detritus composed of rough subangular boulders of moderate size and porous gravel and sand, which yields freely to the transporting power of running water. Several centuries ago im mense quantities of this Ughter material were washed down from the higher slopes by a flood of extraordinary magnitude, caused probably by the sudden melting of the ice and snow dur ing an eruption, giving rise to the deposition of conspicuous delta-Uke beds around the base. 35 STEEP TRAILS And it is upon these flood-beds of moraine soil, thus suddenly and simultaneously laid down and joined edge to edge, that the flowery chap arral is growing. Thus, by forces seemingly antagonistic and destructive. Nature accompUshes her benefi cent designs — now a flood of fire, now a flood of ice, now a flood of water; and again in the fullness of time an outburst of organic life — forest and garden, with aU their wealth of fruit and flowers, the air stirred into one universal hum with rejoicing insects, a milky way of wings and petals, girdUng the new-born moun tain like a cloud, as if the vivifying sunbeams beating against its sides had broken into a foam of plant-bloom and bees. But with such grand displays as Nature is making here, how grand are her reservations, bestowed only upon those who devotedly seek them! Beneath the smooth and snowy surface the fountain fixes are still aglow, to blaze forth afresh at their appointed times. The glaciers, looking so still and small at a distance, repre sented by the artist with a patch of white paint laid on by a single stroke of his brush, are stiU flowing onward, unhalting, with deep crys tal currents, sculpturing the mountain with stern, resistless energy. How many caves and fountains that no eye has yet seen lie with all 36 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA their fine furniture deep down in the darkness, and how many shy wild creatures are at home beneath the grateful lights and shadows of the woods, rejoicing in their fuUness of perfect life! Standing on the edge of the Strawberry Meadows in the sun-days of summer, not a foot or feather or leaf seems to stir; and the grand, towering mountain with all its inhab itants appears in rest, calm as a star. Yet how profound is the energy ever in action, and how great is the multitude of claws and teeth, wings and eyes, wide-awake and at work and shining! Going into the blessed wilderness, the blood of the plants throbbing beneath the life-giving sunshine seems to be heard and felt; plant- growth goes on before our eyes, and every tree and bush and flower is seen as a hive of restless industry. The deeps of the sky are mottled with singing wings of every color and tone — • clouds of brilliant chrysididse dancing and swirl ing in joyous rhythm, golden-barred vespidse, butterflies, grating cicadas and jolly rattUng grasshoppers — fairly enameling the light, and shaking all the air into music. Happy fellows they are, every one of them, blowing tiny pipe and trumpet, plodding and prancing, at work or at play. Though winter holds the summit, Shasta in summer is mostly a massy, bossy mound of 37 STEEP TRAILS flowers colored Uke the alpenglow that flushes the snow. There are miles of wild roses, pink bells of huckleberry and sweet manzanita, every bell a honey-cup, plants that tell of the north and of the south; tall nodding lilies, the crimson sarcodes, rhododendron, cassiope, and blessed Unnsea; phlox, calycanthus, plum, cherry, Crataegus, spiraea, mints, and clovers in endless variety; ivesia, larkspur, and colum bine; golden aplopappus, linosyris,^ bahia, wyethia, arnica, brodiaea, etc., — making sheets and beds of light edgings of bloom in lavish abundance for the myriads of the air dependent on their bounty. The common honey-bees, gone wild in this sweet wilderness, gather tons of honey into the hollows of the trees and rocks, clambering eagerly through bramble and hucklebloom, shaking the clustered bells of the generous manzanita, now humming aloft among poUeny willows and firs, now down on the ashy ground among small giUas and buttercups, and anon plunging into banks of snowy cherry and buck thorn. They consider the UUes and roll into them, pushing their blunt poUeny faces against them Uke babies on their mother's bosom; and fondly, too, with eternal love does Mother ' An obsolete genus of plants now replaced in the main by Chrysothamnvs and Ericameria. [Editor.] 38 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA Nature clasp her smaU bee-babies and suckle them, multitudes at once, on her warm Shasta breast. Besides the common honey-bee there are many others here, fine, burly, mossy fel'* lows, such as were nourished on the mountains many a flowery century before the advent of the domestic species — bumble-bees, mason- bees, carpenter-bees, and leaf-cutters, Butter- ffies, too, and moths of every size and pattern; some wide-winged Uke bats, flapping slowly and saiUng in easy curves ; others Uke small fly ing violets shaking about loosely in short zigzag flights close to the flowers, feasting in plenty night and day. Deer in great abundance come to Shasta from the warmer foothills every spring to feed in the rich, cool pastures, and bring forth then- young in the ceanothus tangles of the chapar ral zone, retiring again before the snowstorms of winter, mostly to the southward and west ward of the moimtain. In like manner the wild sheep of the adjacent region seek the lofty inaccessible crags of the summit as the snow melts, and are driven down to the lower spitrs and ridges where there is but Uttle snow, to the north and east of Shasta, Bears, too, roam this foodful wilderness, feeding on grass, clover, berries, nuts, ant-eggs, fish, flesh, or fowl, — whatever comes in their 39 STEEP TRAILS way, — with but Uttle troublesome discrimina tion. Sugar and honey they seem to Uke best of all, and they seek far to find the sweets; but when hard pushed by hunger they make out to gnaw a living from the bark of trees and rot ten logs, and might almost Uve on clean lava alone. Notwithstanding the CaUfornia bears have had as yet but Uttle experience with honey bees, they sometimes succeed in reaching the bountiful stores of these industrious gatherers and enjoy the feast with majestic relish. But most honey-bees in search of a home are wise enough to make choice of a hollow in a Uving tree far from the ground, whenever such can be found. There they are pretty secure, for though the smaller brown and black bears climb well, they are unable to gnaw their way into strong hives, while compelled to exert themselves to keep from falling and at the same time endure the stings of the bees about the nose and eyes, without having their paws free to brush them off. But woe to the unfor tunates who dwell in some prostrate trunk, and to the black bumble-bees discovered in their mossy, mouselike nests in the ground. With powerful teeth and claws these are speed ily laid bare, and almost before time is given for a general buzz the bees, old and yoimg, 40 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA larvae, honey, stings, nest, and all, are devoured in one ravishing revel. The antelope may stiU be found in consider able numbers to the northeastward of Shasta, but the elk, once abimdant, have almost en tirely gone from the region. The smaUer ani mals, such as the wolf, the various foxes, wild cats, coon, squirrels, and the curious wood rat that builds large brush huts, abound in all the wilder places; and the beaver, otter, mink, etc, may still be found along the sources of the rivers. The blue grouse and mountain quail are plentiful in the woods and the sage-hen on the plains about the northern base of the moun tain, while innumerable smaller birds enliven and sweeten every thicket and grove. There are at least five classes of human in habitants about the Shasta region: the Indi ans, now scattered, few in numbers and miser ably demoraUzed, though stiU offering some rare specimens of savage manhood; miners and prospectors, foimd mostly to the north and west of the moimtain, since the region about its base is overflowed with lava; cattle-raisers, mostly on the open plains to the northeastward and around the Klamath Lakes; hunters and trappers, where the woods and waters are wildest; and farmers, in Shasta VaUey on the 41 STEEP TRAILS north side of the mountain, wheat, apples, mel ons, berries, all the best production of farm and garden growing and ripening there at the foot of the great white cone, which seems at times dur ing changing storms ready to fall upon them — the most sublime farm scenery imaginable. The Indians of the McCloud River that have come under my observation differ con siderably in habits and features from the Dig gers and other tribes of the foothills and plains, and also from the Pah Utes and Modocs, They live chiefly on sahnon. They seem to be closely related to the Tlingits of Alaska, Washington, and Oregon, and may readily have found their way here by passing from stream to stream in which salmon abound. They have much bet ter features than the Indians of the plains, and are rather wide awake, speculative and ambi tious in their way, and garrulous, Uke the natives of the northern coast. Before the Modoc War they Uved in dread of the Modocs, a tribe living about the Kla math Lake and the Lava Beds, who were in the habit of crossing the low Sierra divide past the base of Shasta on freebooting excursions, steal ing wives, fish, and weapons from the Pitts and McClouds. Mothers would hush their children by telUng them that the Modocs would catch them. 42 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA During my stay at the Government fish- hatching station on the McCloud I was accom panied in my walks along the river-bank by a McCloud boy about ten years of age, a bright, inquisitive fellow, who gave me the Indian names of the birds and plants that we met. The water-ousel he knew well and he seemed to like the sweet singer, which he caUed "Sus- sinny." He showed me how strips of the stems of the beautiful maidenhair fern were used to adorn baskets with handsome brown bands, and pointed out several plants good to eat, particularly the large saxifrage growing abun dantly along the river-margin. Once I rushed suddenly upon him to see if he would be fright ened; but he unffinchingly held his ground, struck a grand heroic attitude, and shouted, "Me no 'fraid; me Modoc!" Mount Shasta, so far as I have seen, has never been the home of Indians, not even their hunting-ground to any great extent, above the lower slopes of the base. They are said to be afraid of fire-mountains and geyser-basins as being the dwelUng-places of dangerously power ful and unmanageable gods. However, it is food and their relations to other tribes that mainly control the movements of Indians; and here their food was mostly on the lower slopes, with nothing except the wUd sheep to tempt 43 STEEP TRAILS them higher. Even these were brought within reach without excessive climbing during the storms of winter. On the north side of Shasta, near Sheep Rock, there is a long cavern, sloping to the northward, nearly a mile in length, thirty or forty feet wide, and fifty feet or more in height, regular in form and direction Uke a railroad tunnel, and probably formed by the flowing away of a current of lava after the harden ing of the surface. At the mouth of this cave, where the light and shelter is good, I found many of the heads and horns of the wUd sheep, and the remains of campfires, no doubt those of Indian hunters who in stormy weather had camped there and feasted after the fatigues of the chase. A wild picture that must have formed on a dark night — the glow of the fire, the circle of crouching savages around it seen through the smoke, the dead game, and the weird darkness and half-darkness of the walls of the cavern, a picture of cave-dwellers at home in the stone age! Interest in hunting is almost universal, so deeply is it rooted as an inherited instinct ever ready to rise and make itself known. Fine scenery may not stir a fiber of mind or body, but how quick and how true is the excitement of the pursuit of game! Then up flames the 44 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA slumbering volcano of ancient wildness, all that has been done by church and school through centuries of cultivation is for the mo ment destroyed, and the decent gentleman or devout saint becomes a howUng, bloodthirsty, demented savage. It is not long since we all were cave-men and foUowed game for food as truly as wildcat or wolf, and the long repression of civiUzation seems to make the rebound to savage love of blood aU the more violent. This frenzy, fortunately, does not last long in its most exaggerated form, and after a season of wildness refined gentlemen from cities are not more cruel than hunters and trappers who kill for a Uving. Dwelling apart in the depths of the woods are the various kinds of mountaineers, — hunt ers, prospectors, and the Uke, — rare men, "queer characters," and well worth knowing. Their cabins are located with reference to game and the ledges to be examined, and are con structed almost as simply as those of the wood rats made of sticks laid across each other with out compass or square. But they afford good shelter from storms, and so are "square" with the need of their builders. These men as a class are singularly fine in manners, though their faces may be scarred and rough Uke the bark of trees. On entering their cabins you will 45 STEEP TRAILS promptly be placed on your good behavior, and, your wants being perceived with quick insight, complete hospitality will be offered for body and mind to the extent of the larder. These men know the mountains far and near, and their thousand voices, Uke the leaves of a book. They can teU where the deer may be found at any time of year or day, and what they are doing; and so of all the other furred and feathered people they meet in their walks; and they can send a thought to its mark as well as a bullet. The aims of such people are not always the highest, yet how brave and manly and clean are their Uves compared with too many in crowded towns mildewed and dwarfed in disease and crime! How fine a chance is here to begia Ufe anew in the free fountains and sky- lands of Shasta, where it is so easy to Uve and to die! The future of the hunter is Ukely to be a good one; no abrupt change about it, only a passing from wilderness to wilderness, from one high place to another. Now that the railroad has been built up the Sacramento, everybody with money may go to Mount Shasta, the weak as well as the strong, fine-grained, succulent people, whose legs have never ripened, as well as sinewy mountaineers seasoned long in the weather. This, surely, is not the best way of going ta 46 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA the mountains, yet it is better than staying below. Many stiU smaU voices wiU not be heard in the noisy rush and din, suggestive of going to the sky in a chariot of fire or a whirl wind, as one is shot to the Shasta mark in a booming palace-car cartridge; up the rocky canon, skimming the foaming river, above the level reaches, above the dashing spray — fine exhilarating translation, yet a pity to go so fast in a blur, where so much might be seen and enjoyed. The mountains are fountains not only of rivers and fertile soil, but of men. Therefore we are all, in some sense, mountaineers, and going to the mountains is going home. Yet how many are doomed to toil in town shadows while the white mountains beckon all along the horizon! Up the canon to Shasta would be a cure for all care. But many on arrival seem at a loss to know what to do with themselves, and seek shelter in the hotel, as if that were the Shasta they had come for. Others never leave the rail, content with the window views, and cling to the comforts of the sleeping-car Uke blind mice to their mothers. Many are sick and have been dragged to the heaUng wilderness imwillingly for body-good alone. Were the parts of the human machine detach able like Yankee inventions, how strange would 47 STEEP TRAILS be the gatherings on the mountains of pieces of people out of repair! How sadly unlike the whole-hearted ongoing of the seeker after gold is this partial, compul sory mountaineering! — as if the mountain treasuries contained nothing better than gold! Up the mountains they go, high-heeled and high-hatted, laden like Christian with morti fications and mortgages of divers sorts and degrees, some suffering from the sting of bad bargains, others exulting in good ones; hunters and fishermen with gun and rod and leggins; blythe and joUy troubadours to whom all Shasta is romance; poets singing their prayers; the weak and the strong, unable or unwilUng to bear mental taxation. But, whatever the motive, all will be in some measure benefited. None may wholly escape the good of Nature, however imperfectly exposed to her blessings. The minister will not preach a perfectly flat and sedimentary sermon after climbing a snowy peak; and the fair play and tremendous impar tiality of Nature, so tellingly displayed, will surely affect the after pleadings of the lawyer. Fresh air at least will get into everybody, and the cares of mere business will be quenched Uke the fires of a sinking ship. Possibly a branch railroad may some time be built to the summit of Mount Shasta like the 48 AT SHASTA SOD^ SPRINGS SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA road on Mount Washington. In the mean time tourists are dropped at Sisson's, about twelve nailes from the summit, whence as head quarters they radiate in every direction to the so-called "points of interest"; sauntering about the flowery fringes of the Strawberry Meadows, bathing in the bahn of the woods, scrambUng, fishing, hunting; riding about Castle Lake, the McCloud River, Soda Springs, Big Spring, deer pastures, and elsewhere. Some demand bears, and make excited inquiries con cerning their haunts, how many there might be altogether on the mountain, and whether they are grizzly, brown, or black. Others shout, "Excelsior," and make off at once for the upper snow-fields. Most, however, are con tent with comparatively level ground and mod erate distances, gathering at the hotel every evening laden with trophies — great sheaves of flowers, cones of various trees, cedar and fir branches covered with yellow Uchens, and possibly a fish or two, or quail, or grouse. But the heads of deer, antelope, wild sheep, and bears are conspicuously rare or altogether wanting in tourist coUections in the "paradise of hunters." There is a grand comparing of notes and adventures. Most are exhilarated and happy, though complaints may occasion ally be heard — "The mountain does not look 49 STEEP TRAILS so very high after aU, nor so very white; th& snow is in patches Uke rags spread out to dry," reminding one of Sydney Smith's joke against Jeffrey, "D ^n the Solar System; bad light, planets too indistinct." But far the greater number are in good spirits, showing the influ ence of hoUday enjoyment and mountain air. Fresh roses come to cheeks that long have been pale, and sentiment often begins to blossom under the new inspiration. The Shasta region may be reserved as a national park, with special reference to the preservation of its fine forests and game. This should by all means be done; but, as far as game is concerned, it is in Uttle danger from tourists, notwithstanding many of them carry guns, and are in some sense hunters. Going in noisy groups, and with guns so shining, they are oftentimes confronted by inquisitive Doug las squirrels, and are thus given opportunities for shooting; but the larger animals retire at their approach and seldom are seen. Other gun people, too wise or too lifeless to make much noise, move slowly along the trails and about the open spots of the woods, like be numbed beetles in a snowdrift. Such hunters are themselves hunted by the animals, which in perfect safety follow them out of curiosity. During the bright days of midsummer the so SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA ascent of Shasta is only a long, safe saunter, without fright or nerve-strain, or even serious fatigue, to those in sound health. Setting out from Sisson's on horseback, accompanied by a guide leading a pack-animal with provisions, blankets, and other necessaries, you follow a trail that leads up to the edge of the timber- line, where you camp for the night, eight or ten miles from the hotel, at an elevation of about ten thousand feet. The next day, rising early, you may push on to the summit and return to Sisson's. But it is better to spend more time in the enjoyment of the grand scen ery on the summit and about the head of the Whitney Glacier, pass the second night in camp, and return to Sisson's on the third day. Passing around the margin of the meadows and on through the zones of the forest, you will have good opportunities to get ever-changing views of the mountain and its wealth of crea tures that bloom and breathe. The woods differ but Uttle from those that clothe the mountains to the southward, the trees being sUghtly closer together and gener ally not quite so large, marking the incipient change from the open sunny forests of the Sierra to the dense damp forests of the north ern coast, where a squirrel may travel in the branches of the thick-set trees hundreds of 51 STEEP TRAILS miles without touching the ground. Around the upper belt of the forest you may see gaps where the ground has been cleared by ava lanches of snow, thousands of tons in weight, which, descending with grand rush and roar, brush the trees from their paths Uke so many fragile shrubs or grasses. At first the ascent is very gradual. The mountain begins to leave the plain in slopes scarcely perceptible, measuring from two to three degrees. These are continued by easy gradations mile after mile all the way to the truncated, crumbUng summit, where they attain a steepness of twenty to twenty-five degrees. The grand simpUcity of these Unes is partially interrupted on the north subordinate cone that rises from the side of the main cone about three thousand feet from the summit. This side cone, past which your way to the summit lies, was active after the breaking-up of the main ice-cap of the glacial period, as shown by the comparatively unwasted crater in which it terminates and by streams of fresh- looking, unglaciated lava that radiate from it as a center. The main summit is about a mile and a half m diameter from southwest to northeast, and is nearly covered with snow and neve, bounded by crumbling peaks and ridges, among which 52 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA we look in vain for any sure plan of an ancient crater. The extreme summit is situated on the southern end of a narrow ridge that bounds the general summit on the east. Viewed from the north, it appears as an irregular blunt point about ten feet high, and is fast disappearing before the stormy atmospheric action to which it is subjected. At the base of the eastern ridge, just be low the extreme summit, hot sulphurous gases and vapor escape with a hissing, bubbUng noise from a fissure in the lava. Some of the many smaU vents cast up a spray of clear hot water, which faUs back repeatedly until wasted in vapor. The steam and spray seem to be produced simply by melting snow coming in the way of the escaping gases, while the gases are evidently derived from the heated interior of the moimtain, and may be regarded as the last feeble expression of the mighty power that Ufted the entire mass of the mountain from the volcanic depths far below the surface of the plain. The view from the summit in clear weather extends to an immense distance in every direc tion. Southeastward, the low volcanic portion of the Sierra is seen Uke a map, both flanks as well as the crater-dotted axis, as far as Lassen's^ • An early local name for what is now known as Lassen 53 STEEP TRAILS Butte, a prominent landmark and an old vol cano like Shasta, between ten and eleven thou sand feet high, and distant about sixty miles. Some of the higher summit peaks near Inde pendence Lake, one hundred and eighty miles away, are at times distinctly visible. Far to the north, in Oregon, the snowy volcanic cones of Mounts Pitt, Jefferson, and the Three Sis ters rise in clear relief, like majestic monu ments, above the dim dark sea of the northern woods. To the northeast lie the Rhett and Klamath Lakes, the Lava Beds, and a grand display of hill and mountain and gray rocky plains. The Scott, Siskiyou, and Trinity Moun tains rise in long, compact waves to the west and southwest, and the valley of the Sacra mento and the coast mountains, with their marvelous wealth of woods and waters, are seen; while close around the base of the moun tain Ue the beautiful Shasta Valley, Strawberry Valley, Huckleberry Valley, and many others, with the headwaters of the Shasta, Sacramento, and McCloud Rivers. Some observers claim to have seen the ocean from the summit of Shasta, but I have not yet been so fortunate. The Cinder Cone near Lassen's Butte is Peak, or Mt. Lassen. In 1914 its volcanic activity was re sumed with spectacular eruptions of ashes, steam, and gas, [Editor.] 64 SUMMER DAYS AT MOUNT SHASTA remarkable as being the scene of the most recent volcanic eruption in the range. It is a symmetrical truncated cone covered with gray cinders and ashes, with a regular crater in which a few pines an inch or two in diameter are growing. It stands between two smaU lakes which previous to the last eruption, when the cone was built, formed one lake. From near the base of the cone a flood of extremely rough black vesicular lava extends across what was once a portion of the bottom of the lake into the forest of yeUow pine. This lava-flow seems to have been poured out during the same eruption that gave birth to the cone, cutting the lake in two, flowing a Uttle way into the woods and overwhelming the trees in its way, the ends of some of the charred trunks still being visible, projecting from beneath the advanced snout of the flow where it came to rest; while the floor of the for est for miles around is so thickly strewn with loose cinders that walking is very fatiguing. The Pitt River Indians teU of a fearful time of darkness, probably due to this eruption, when the sky was filled with falling cinders which, as they thought, threatened every Uving creature with destruction, and say that when at length the sun appeared through the gloom it was red Uke blood. 55 STEEP TRAILS Less recent craters in great numbers dot the adjacent region, some with lakes in their throats, some overgrown with trees, others nearly bare — telUng monuments of Nature's mountain fires so often lighted throughout the northern Sierra. And, standing on the top of icy Shasta, the mightiest fire-monument of them all, we can hardly fail to look forward to the blare and glare of its next eruption and wonder whether it is nigh. Elsewhere men have planted gardens and vineyards in the craters of volcanoes quiescent for ages, and almost without warning have been hurled into the sky. More than a thousand years of pro found calm have been known to intervene between two violent eruptions. Seventeen cen turies intervened between two consecutive eruptions on the island of Ischia. Few volca noes continue permanently in eruption. Like gigantic geysers, spouting hot stone instead of hot water, they work and sleep, and we have no sure means of knowing whether they are only sleeping or dead. IV A PERILOUS NIGHT ON SHASTA's SUMMIT Toward the end of summer, after a light, open winter, one may reach the summit of Moimt Shasta without passing over much snow, by keeping on the crest of a long narrow ridge, mostly bare, that extends from near the camp-ground at the timber-line. But on my first excursion to the summit the whole moun tain, down to its low sweUing base, was smoothly laden with loose fresh snow, present ing a most glorious mass of winter mountain scenery, in the midst of which I scrambled and reveled or lay snugly snowbound, enjoying the fertile clouds and the snow-bloom in all their growing, drifting grandeur. I had walked from Redding, sauntering lei surely from station to station along the old Oregon stage-road, the better to see the rocks and plants, birds and people, by the way, trac ing the rushing Sacramento to its fountains around icy Shasta. The first rains had fallen on the lowlands, and the first snows on the mountains, and everything was fresh and bracing, while an abundance of balmy sun shine filled all the noonday hours. It was the 57 STEEP TRAILS calm afterglow that usually succeeds the first storm of the winter, I met many of the bird":* that had reared their young and spent their summer in the Shasta woods and chaparral. They were then on their way south to their winter homes, leading their yoimg full-fledged and about as large and strong as the parents. Squirrels, dry and elastic after the storms, were busy about their stores of pine nuts, and the latest goldenrods were still in bloom, though it was now past the middle of October. The grand color glow — the autumnal jubilee of ripe leaves — was past prime, but, freshened by the rain, was still making a fine show along the banks of the river and in the ravines and the deUs of the smaller streams. At the salmon-hatching establishment on the McCloud River I halted a week to examine the limestone belt, grandly developed there, to learn what I could of the inhabitants of the river and its banks, and to give time for the fresh snow that I knew had fallen on the mountain to settle somewhat, with a view to making the ascent.' A pedestrian on these mountain roads, especiaUy so late in the year, is sure to excite curiosity, and many were the interrogations concerning my ramble. When I said that I was simply taking a walk, and that icy Shasta was my mark. I was invariably 58 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT admonished that I had come on a dangerous quest. The time was far too late, the snow was too loose and deep to cUmb, and I should be lost in drifts and sUdes. When I hinted that new snow was beautiful and storms not so bad as they were called, my advisers shook their heads in token of superior knowledge and de clared the ascent of "Shasta Butte" through loose snow impossible. Nevertheless, before noon of the second of November I was in the frosty azure of the utmost summit. When I arrived at Sisson's everything was quiet. The last of the summer visitors had flitted long before, and the deer and bears also were beiginning to seek their winter homes. My barometer and the sighing winds and filmy, half-transparent clouds that dimmed the sun shine gave notice of the approach of another storm, and I was in haste to be off and get myself estabUshed somewhere in the midst of it, whether the summit was to be attained or not. Sisson, who is a mountaineer, speedily fitted me out for storm or cahn as only a mountaineer could, with warm blankets and a week's provisions so generous in quantity and kind that they easily might have been made to last a month in case of my being closely snow bound. WeU I knew the weariness of snow- cUmbing, and the frosts, and the dangers of 59 STEEP TRAILS mountaineering so late in the year; therefore I could not ask a guide to go with me, even had one been willing. AU I wanted was to have blankets and provisions deposited as far up in the timber as the snow would permit a pack- animal to go. There I could build a storm nest and lie warm, and make raids up and around the mountain in accordance with the weather. Setting out on the afternoon of November first, with Jerome Fay, mountaineer and guide, in charge of the animals, I was soon plodding wearily upward through the muffled winter woods, the snow of course growing steadily deeper and looser, so that we had to break a trail. The ammals began to get discouraged, and after night and darkness came on they be came entangled in a bed of rough lava, where, breaking through four or five feet of mealy snow, their feet were caught between angular boulders. Here they were in danger of being lost, but after we had removed packs and sad dles and assisted their efforts with ropes, they all escaped to the side of a ridge about a thou sand feet below the timber-line. To go farther was out of the question, so we were compelled to camp as best we could. A pitch-pine fire speedily changed the tempera ture and shed a blaze of light on the wild lava- 60 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT slope and the straggling storm-bent pines around us. Melted snow answered for coffee, and we had plenty of venison to roast. Toward midnight I rolled myseU in my blankets, slept an hour and a half, arose and ate more venison, tied two days' provisions to my belt, and set out for the summit, hoping to reach it ere the coming storm should fall. Jerome accompanied me a little distance above camp and indicated the way as well as he could in the darkness. He seemed loath to leave me, but, being reas sured that I was at home and required no care, he bade me good-bye and returned to camp, ready to lead his animals down the mountain at daybreak. After I was above the dwarf pines, it was fine practice pushing up the broad unbroken slopes of snow, alone in the solemn silence of the night. Half the sky was clouded; in the other half the stars sparkled icily in the keen, frosty air; while everywhere the glorious wealth of snow fell away from the summit of the cone in flowing folds, more extensive and continuous than any I had ever seen before. When day dawned the clouds were crawling slowly and becoming more massive, but gave no intima tion of immediate danger, and I pushed on faithfully, though holding myself well in hand, ready to return to the timber; for it was easy 61 STEEP TRAILS to see that the storm was not far off. The mountain rises ten thousand feet above the general level of the country, in blank exposure to the deep upper currents of the sky, and no labyrinth of peaks and canons I had ever been in seemed to me so dangerous as these immense slopes, bare against the sky. The frost was intense, and drifting snow-dust made breathing at times rather difficult. The snow was as dry as meal, and the finer particles drifted freely, rising high in the air, while the larger portions of the crystals rolled like sand. I frequently sank to my armpits between buried blocks of loose lava, but generally only to my knees. When tired with walking I stiU wallowed slowly upward on all fours. The steepness of the slope — thirty-five degrees in some places — made any kind of progress fatiguing, while small avalanches were being constantly set in motion in the steepest places. But the bracing air and the sublime beauty of the snowy expanse thrilled every nerve and made absolute exhaustion impossible. I seemed to be walking and wallowing in a cloud; but, holding steadily onward, by half-past ten o'clock I had gained the highest summit. I held my commanding foothold in the sky for two hours, gazing on the glorious landscapes spread maplike around the immense horizon, 62 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT and tracing the outlines of the ancient lava- streams extending far into the surrounding plains, and the pathways of vanished glaciers of which Shasta had been the center. But, as I had left my coat in camp for the sake of hav ing my limbs free in climbing, I soon was cold. The wind increased in violence, raising the snow in magnificent drifts that were drawn out in the form of wavering banners glowing in the sun. Toward the end of my stay a succession of small clouds struck against the summit rocks Uke drifting icebergs, darkening the air as they passed, and producing a chill as definite and sudden as if ice-water had been dashed in my face. This is the kind of cloud in which snow- flowers grow, and I turned and fled. Finding that I was not closely pursued, I ventured to take time on the way down for a visit to the head of the Whitney Glacier and the "Crater Butte." After I reached the end of the main summit ridge the descent was but Uttle more than one continuous soft, mealy, muffled slide, most luxurious and rapid, though the hissing, swishing speed attained was ob scured in great part by flying snow-dust — a marked contrast to the boring seal-wallow ing upward struggle. I reached camp about an hour before dusk, hollowed a strip of loose ground in the lee of a large block of red lava, 63 STEEP TRAILS where firewood was abundant, rolled myself in my blankets, and went to sleep. Next morning, having slept little the night before the ascent and being weary with climb ing after the excitement was over, I slept late. Then, awaking suddenly, my eyes opened on one of the most beautiful and sublime scenes I ever enjoyed. A boundless wilderness of storm-clouds of different degrees of ripeness were congregated over all the lower landscape for thousands of square miles, colored gray, and purple, and pearl, and deep-glowing white, amid which I seemed to be floating; while the great white cone of the mountain above was all aglow in the free, blazing sunshine. It seemed not so much an ocean as a land of clouds — undulating hill and dale, smooth purple plains, and sUvery mountains of cumuli, range over range, diversified with peak and dome and hollow fully brought out in Ught and shade. I gazed enchanted, but cold gray masses, drifting like dust on a wind-swept plain, began to shut out the light, forerunners of the coming storm I had been so anxiously watching. I made haste to gather as much wood as possi ble, snugging it as a shelter around my bed. The storm side of my blankets was fastened down with stakes to reduce as much as possible the sifting-in of drift and the danger of being 64 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT blown away. The precious bread-sack was placed safely as a pillow, and when at length the first flakes fell I was exultingly ready to welcome them. Most of my firewood was more than half rosin and would blaze in the face of the fiercest drifting; the winds could not de molish my bed, and my bread could be made to last indefinitely; while in case of need I had the means of making snowshoes and could retreat or hold my ground as I pleased. Presently the storm broke forth into full snowy bloom, and the thronging crystals dark ened the air. The wind swept past in hissing floods, grinding the snow into meal and sweep ing down into the hollows in enormous drifts all the heavier particles, while the finer dust was sifted through the sky, increasing the icy gloom. But my fire glowed bravely as if in glad defiance of the drift to quench it, and, notwith standing but Uttle trace of my nest could be seen after the snow had leveled and buried it, I was snug and warm, and the passionate up roar produced a glad excitement. Day after day the storm continued, piling snow on snow in weariless abundance. There were short periods of quiet, when the sun would seem to look eagerly down through rents in the clouds, as if to know how the work was ad vancing. During these cahn intervals I re- 65 STEEP TRAILS plenished my fire — sometimes without leaving the nest, for fire and woodpile were so near this could easily be done — or busied myself with my notebook, watching the gestures of the trees in taking the snow, examining separate crystals under a lens, and learning the methods of their deposition as an enduring fountain for the streams. Several times, when the storm ceased for a few minutes, a Douglas squirrel came frisking from the foot of a clump of dwarf pines, moving in sudden interrupted spurts over the bossy snow; then, without any apparent guidance, he would dig rapidly into the drift where were buried some grains of barley that the horses had left. The Douglas squirrel does not strictly belong to these upper woods, and I was surprised to see Mm out in such weather. The mountain sheep also, quite a large flock of them, came to my camp and took shelter beside a clump of matted dwarf pines a little above my nest. The storm lasted about a week, but before it was ended Sisson became alarmed and sent up the guide with animals to see what had be come of me and recover the camp outfit. The news spread that "there was a man on the mountain," and he must surely have perished, and Sisson was blamed for allowing any one to attempt climbing in such weather; while I was 66 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT as safe as anybody in the lowlands, lying Uke a squirrel in a warm, fluffy nest, busied about my own affairs and wishing only to be let alone. Later, however, a trail could not have been broken for a horse, and some of the camp fur niture would have had to be abandoned. On the fifth day I returned to Sisson's, and from that comfortable base made excursions, as the weather permitted, to the Black Butte, to the foot of the Whitney Glacier, around the base of the mountain, to Rhett and Klamath Lakes, to the Modoc region and elsewhere, develop ing many interesting scenes and experiences. But the next spring, on the other side of this eventful winter, I saw and felt still more of the Shasta snow. For then it was my fortune to get into the very heart of a storm, and to be held in it for a long time. On the 28th of April [1875] I led a party up the mountain for the purpose of making a sur vey of the summit with reference to the loca tion of the Geodetic monument. On the 30th, accompanied by Jerome Fay, I made another ascent to make some barometrical observations, the day intervening between the two ascents being devoted to estabUshing a camp on the extreme edge of the timber-line. Here, on our red trachyte bed, we obtained two hours of shallow sleep broken for occasional gUmpses 67 STEEP TRAILS of the keen, starry night. At two o'clock we rose, breakfasted on a warmed tin-cupful of coffee and a piece of frozen venison broiled on the coals, and started for the summit. Up to this time there was nothing in sight that be tokened the approach of a storm; but on gain ing the summit, we saw toward Lassen's Butte hundreds of square miles of white cumuU boil ing dreamily in the sunshine far beneath us, and causing no alarm. The sUght weariness of the ascent was soon rested away, and our glorious morning in the sky promised nothing but enjoyment. At 9 A.M. the dry thermometer stood at 34° in the shade and rose steadily until at 1 p.m. it stood at 50°, probably influenced somewhat by radi ation from the sun-warmed cliffs. A common bumble-bee, not at all benumbed, zigzagged vigorously about our heads for a few moments, as if unconscious of the fact that the nearest honey flower was a mile beneath him In the mean time clouds were growing down in Shasta Valley — massive swelling cumuU, displaying deUcious tones of purple and gray in the hollows of their sun-beaten bosses. Extending gradually southward around on both sides of Shasta, these at length united with the older field towards Lassen's Butte, thus encircling Mount Shasta in one continu es A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT ous cloud-zone. Rhett and Klamath Lakes were eclipsed beneath clouds scarcely less bril liant than theu- own silvery disks. The Modoc Lava Beds, many a snow-laden peak far north in Oregon, the Scott and Trmity and Siskiyou Mountains, the peaks of the Sierra, the blue Coast Range, Shasta Valley, the dark forests filling the valley of the Sacramento, all in turn were obscured or buried, leaving the lofty cone on which we stood solitary in the sunshine between two skies — a sky of spotless blue above, a sky of glittering cloud beneath. The creative sun shone glorious on the vast expanse of cloudland; hill and dale, mountain and val ley springing into existence responsive to his rays and steadily developing in beauty and individuality. One huge mountain-cone of cloud, corresponding to Mount Shasta in these newborn cloud-ranges, rose close alongside with a visible motion, its firm, polished bosses seeming so near and substantial that we almost fancied we might leap down upon them from where we stood and make our way to the low lands. No hint was given, by anything in their appearance, of the fleeting character of these most subUme and beautiful cloud moun tains. On the contrary they impressed one as being lasting additions to the landscape. The weather of the springtime and summer, 69 STEEP TRAILS throughout the Sierra in general, is usually varied by slight local rains and dustings of snow, most of which are obviously far too joy ous and life-giving to be regarded as storms — single clouds growing in the sunny sky, ripen ing in an hour, showering the heated landscape, and passing away like a thought, leaving no visible bodily remains to stain the sky. Snow storms of the same gentle kind abound among the high peaks, but in spring they not unfre- quently attain larger proportions, assuming a violence and energy of expression scarcely sur passed by those bred in the depths of winter. Such was the storm now gathering about us. It began to declare itself shortly after noon, suggesting to us the idea of at once seeking our safe camp in the timber and abandoning the purpose of making an observation of the barometer at 3 p.m., — two having already been made, at 9 a.m., and 12 m., while simul taneous observations were made at Strawberry Valley. Jerome peered at short intervals over the ridge, contemplating the rising clouds with anxious gestures in the rough wind, and at length declared that if we did not make a speedy escape we should be compeUed to pass the rest of the day and night on the summit. But anxiety to complete my observations stifled my own instinctive promptings to re- 70 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT treat, and held me to my work. No inexperi enced person was depending on me, and I told Jerome that we two mountaineers should be able to ynake our way down through any storm likely to fall. Presently thin, fibrous films of cloud began to blow directly over the summit from north to south, drawn out in long fairy webs Uke carded wool, forming and dissolving as if by magic. The wind twisted them into ringlets and whirled them in a succession of graceful convolutions like the outside sprays of Yosem ite Falls in flood-time; then, saiUng out into the thin azure over the precipitous brink of the ridge they were drifted together like wreaths of foam on a river. These higher and finer cloud fabrics were evidently produced by the chilling of the air from its own expansion caused by the upward deflection of the wind against the slopes of the mountain. They steadily increased on the north rim of the cone, form ing at length a thick, opaque, ill-defined em bankment from the icy meshes of which snow- flowers began to fall, alternating with hail. The sky speedily darkened, and just as I had com pleted my last observation and boxed my instruments ready for the descent, the storm began in serious earnest. At first the cUffs were beaten with hail, every stone of which, 71 STEEP TRAILS as far as I could see, was regular in form, six- sided pyramids with rounded base, rich and sumptuous-looking, and fashioned with loving care, yet seemingly thrown away on those deso late crags down which they went rolling, fall ing, sliding in a network of curious streams. After we had forced our way down the ridge and past the group of hissing fumaroles, the storm became inconceivably violent. The ther mometer feU 22° in a few minutes, and soon dropped below zero. The hail gave place to snow, and darkness came on like night. The wind, rising to the highest pitch of violence, boomed and surged amid the desolate crags; lightning-flashes in quick succession cut the gloomy darkness; and the thunders, the most tremendously loud and appalling I ever heard, made an almost continuous roar, stroke follow ing stroke in quick, passionate succession, as though the mountain were being rent to its foundations and the fires of the old volcano were breaking forth again. Could we at once have begun to descend the snow-slopes leading to the timber, we might have made good our escape, however dark and wild the storm. As it was, we had first to make our way along a dangerous ridge nearly a mile and a half long, flanked in many places by steep ice-slopes at the head of the Whitney Glacier 72 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT on one side and by shattered precipices on the other. Apprehensive of this coming darkness, I had taken the precaution, when the storm began, to make the most dangerous points clear to my mind, and to mark their relations with reference to the direction of the wind. When, therefore, the darkness came on, and the be wildering drift, I felt confident that we could force our way through it with no other guid ance. After passing the "Hot Springs" I halted in the lee of a lava-block to let Jerome, who had fallen a little behind, come up. Here he opened a council in which, under circum stances sufficiently exciting but without evinc ing any bewilderment, he maintained, in oppo sition to my views, that it was impossible to proceed. He firmly refused to make the ven ture to find the camp, while I, aware of the dangers that would necessarily attend our efforts, and conscious of being the cause of his present peril, decided not to leave him. Our discussions ended, Jerome made a dash from the shelter of the lava-block and began forcing his way back against the wind to the "Hot Springs," wavering and struggling to resist being carried away, as if he were fording a rapid stream. After waiting and watching in vain for some flaw in the storm that might be urged as a new argument in favor of attempt- 73 STEEP TRAILS ing the descent, I was compeUed to follow. "Here," said Jerome, as we shivered in the midst of the hissing, sputtering fumaroles, "we shaU be safe from frost." "Yes," said I, "we can lie in this mud and steam and sludge, warm at least on one side; but how can we protect our lungs from the acid gases, and how, after our clothing is saturated, shall we be able to reach camp without freezing, even after the storm is over? We shaU have to wait for sun shine, and when will it come?" The tempered area to which we had com mitted ourselves extended over about one fourth of an acre; but it was only about an eighth of an inch in thickness, for the scalding gas-jets were shorn off close to the ground by the oversweeping flood of frosty wind. And how lavishly the snow fell only mountaineers may know. The crisp crystal flowers seemed to touch one another and fairly to thicken the tremendous blast that carried them. This was the bloom-time, the summer of the cloud, and never before have I seen even a mountain cloud flowering so profusely. When the bloom of the Shasta chaparral is falling, the ground is sometimes covered for hundreds of square miles to a depth of half an inch. But the bloom of this fertile snow-cloud grew and matured and fell to a depth of two 74 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT feet in a few hours. Some crystals landed with their rays ahnost perfect, but most of them were worn and broken by striking against one another, or by rolUng on the ground. The touch of these snow-flowers in cahn weather is infinitely gentle — glinting, swaying, settling silently in the dry mountain air, or massed in flakes soft and downy. To Ue out alone in the mountains of a stiU night and be touched by the first of these smaU silent messengers from the sky is a memorable experience, and the fineness of that touch none will forget. But the storm-blast laden with crisp, sharp snow seems to crush and bruise and stupefy with its multitude of stings, and compels the bravest to turn and flee. The snow feU without abatement until an hour or two after what seemed to be the natu ral darkness of the night. Up to the time the storm first broke on the summit its develop ment was remarkably gentle. There was a deUberate growth of clouds, a weaving of translucent tissue above, then the roar of the wind and the thunder, and the darkening flight of snow. Its subsidence 'was not less sudden. The clouds broke and vanished, not a crystal was left in the sky, and the stars shone out with pure and tranquil radiance. During the storm we lay on our backs so as 75 STEEP TRAILS to present as Uttle surface as possible to the wind, and to let the drift pass over us. The mealy snow sifted into the folds of our clothing and in many places reached the skin. We were glad at first to see the snow packing about us, hoping it would deaden the force of the wind; but it soon froze into a stiff, crusty heap as the temperature feU, rather augmenting our novel misery. When the heat became unendurable, on some spot where steam was escaping through the sludge, we tried to stop it with snow and mud, or shifted a little at a time by shoving with our heels; for to stand in blank exposure to the fearful wind in our frozen-and-broiled condition seemed certain death. The acrid incrustations sublimed from the escaping gases frequently gave way, opening new vents to scald us; and, fearing that if at any tune the wind should fall, carbonic acid, which often formed a considerable portion of the gaseous exhalations of volcanoes, might coUect in suffi cient quantities to cause sleep and death, I warned Jerome against forgetting himself for a single moment, even should his sufferings ad mit of such a thing. Accordingly, when during the long, dreary watches of the night we roused from a state of half-consciousness, we called each other by 76 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT. name in a frightened, startled way, each fear ing the other might be benumbed or dead. The ordinary sensations of cold give but a faint conception of that which comes on after hard climbing with want of food and sleep in such exposure as this. Life is then seen to be a fire, that now smoulders, now brightens, and may be easily quenched. The weary hours wore away Uke dim half-forgotten years, so long and eventful they seemed, though we did nothing but suffer, StiU the pain was not al ways of that bitter, intense kind that precludes thought and takes away all capacity for enjoy ment, A sort of dreamy stupor came on at times in which we fancied we saw dry, resinous logs suitable for campfires, just as after going days without food men fancy they see bread. Frozen, bUstered, famished, benumbed, our bodies seemed lost to us at times — aU dead but the eyes. For the duller and fainter we became the clearer was our vision, though only in momentary glimpses. Then, after the sky cleared, we gazed at the stars, blessed immor tals of light, shining with marvelous brightness with long lance rays, near-looking and new- looking, as if never seen before. Again they would look famiUar and remind us of star gazing at home. Oftentimes imagination com ing into play would present charming pictures 77 STEEP TRAILS of the warm zone below, mingled with others near and far. Then the bitter wind and the drift would break the bUssful vision and dreary pains cover us Uke clouds. "Are you suffering much?" Jerome would inquire with pitiful faintness. "Yes," I would say, striving to keep my voice brave, "frozen and burned; but never mind, Jerome, the night will wear away at last, and to-morrow we go a-Maying, and what campfires we will make, and what sun- baths we will take!" The frost grew more and more intense, and we became icy and covered over with a crust of frozen snow, as if we had lain cast away in the drift all winter. In about thirteen hours — every hour like a year — day began to dawn, but it was long ere the summit's rocks were touched by the sun. No clouds were visible from where we lay, yet the morning was dull and blue, and bitterly frosty; and hour after hour passed by while we eagerly watched the pale Ught steaUng down the ridge to the hollow where we lay. But there was not a trace of that warm, flushing sunrise splendor we so long had hoped for. As the time drew near to make an effort to reach camp, we became concerned to know what strength was left us, and whether or no we could walk; for we had lain flat all this time 78 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT without once rising to our feet. Mountaineers, however, always find in themselves a reserve of power after great exhaustion. It is a kind of second life, available only in emergencies Uke this; and, having proved its existence, I had no great fear that either of us would fail, though one of my arms was already benumbed and hung powerless. At length, after the temperature was some what mitigated on this memorable first of May, we arose and began to struggle homeward. Our frozen trousers could scarcely be made to .bend at the knee, and we waded the snow with difficulty. The summit ridge was fortunately wind-swept and nearly bare, so we were not compelled to Uft our feet high, and on reaching the long home slopes laden with loose snow we made rapid progress, sUding and shuffling and pitching headlong, our feebleness accelerating rather than diminishing our speed. When we had descended some three thousand feet the sunshine warmed our backs and we began to revive. At 10 a.m. we reached the timber and were safe. Half an hour later we heard Sisson shouting down among the firs, coining with horses to take us to the hotel. After breaking a traU through the snow as far as possible he had tied his animals and walked up. We had been so 79 STEEP TRAILS long without food that we cared but Uttle about eating, but we eagerly drank the coffee he prepared for us. Our feet were frozen, and thawing them was painful, and had to be done very slowly by keeping them buried in soft snow for several hours, which avoided perma nent damage. Five thousand feet below the summit we found only three inches of new snow, and at the base of the mountain only a sUght shower of rain had faUen, showing how local our storm had been, notwithstanding its terrific fury. Our feet were wrapped in sacking, and we were soon mounted and on our way down into the thick sunshine — " God's Coun try," as Sisson calls the Chaparral Zone. In two hours' ride the last snow-bank was left behind. Violets appeared along the edges of the trail, and the chaparral was coining into bloom, with young UUes and larkspurs about the open places in rich profusion. How beauti ful J seemed the golden sunbeams streaming through the woods between the warm brown boles of the cedars and pines! All my friends among the birds and plants seemed Uke old friends, and we felt like speaking to every one of them as we passed, as if we had been a long time away in some far, strange country. In the afternoon we reached Strawberry Val ley and feU asleep. Next morning we seemed to 80 A NIGHT ON SHASTA'S SUMMIT have risen from the dead. My bedroom was flooded with sunshine, and from the window I saw the great white Shasta cone clad in forests and clouds and bearing them loftily in the sky. Everything seemed full and radiant with the freshness and beauty and enthusiasm of youth. Sisson's children came in with flowers and cov ered my bed, and the storm on the mountain- top vanished like a dream. SHASTA RAMBLES AND MODOC MEMORIES Arctic beauty and desolation, with their blessings and dangers, all may be found here, to test the endurance and skill of adventurous cUmbers; but far better than climbing the mountain is going around its warm, fertile base, enjoying its bounties Uke a bee circUng around a bank of flowers. The distance is about a hun dred miles, and will take some of the time we hear so much about — a week or two — but the benefits will compensate for any number of weeks. Perhaps the profession of doing good may be fuU, but everybody should be kind at least to himself. Take a course of good water and air, and in the eternal youth of Nature you may renew your own. Go quietly, alone; no harm will befall you. Some have strange, morbid fears as soon as they find themselves with Nature, even in the kindest and wildest of her solitudes, Uke very sick children afraid of their mother — as if God were dead and the devil were king. One may make the trip on horseback, or in a carriage, even; for a good level road may be found aU the way round, by Shasta VaUey, 82 SHASTA RAMBLES Sheep Rock, Elk Flat, Huckleberry VaUey, Squaw Valley, foUowing for a considerable portion of the way the old Emigrant Road, which lies along the east disk of the mountain, and is deeply worn by the wagons of the early gold-seekers, many of whom chose this north- em route as perhaps being safer and easier, the pass here being only about six thousand feet above sea-level. But it is far better to go afoot. Then you are free to make wide waver ings and zigzags away from the roads to visit the great fountain streams of the rivers, the glaciers also, and the wildest retreats in the primeval forests, where the best plants and animals dwell, and where many a flower-bell will ring against your knees, and friendly trees will reach out their fronded branches and touch you as you pass. One blanket will be enough to carry, or you may forego the pleas ure and burden altogether, as wood for fires is everywhere abundant. Only a Uttle food will be required. Berries and plums abound in season, and quail and grouse and deer — the magnificent shaggy mule deer as well as the common species. As you sweep around so grand a center, the mountain itself seems to turn, displaying its riches Uke the revolving pyramids in jewelers' windows. One glacier after another comes into 83 STEEP TRAILS view, and the outUnes of the mountain are ever changing, though aU the way around, from whatever point of view, the form is maintained of a grand, simple cone with a gently sloping base and rugged, crumbling ridges separating the glaciers and the snow-fields more or less completely. The play of colors, from the first touches of the morning sun on the summit, down the snow-fields and the ice and lava until the forests are aglow, is a never-ending deUght, the rosy lava and the fine flushings of the snow being ineffably lovely. Thus one saunters on and on in the glorious radiance in utter peace and forgetfulness of time. Yet, strange to say, there are days even here somewhat dull-looking, when the mountain seems uncommunicative, sending out no appre ciable invitation, as if not at home. At such times its height seems much less, as if, crouch ing and weary, it were taking rest. But Shasta is always at home to those who love her, and is ever in a thriU of enthusiastic activity — burning fires within, grinding glaciers without, and fountains ever flowing. Every crystal dances responsive to the touches of the sun, and currents of sap in the growing cells of all the vegetation are ever in a vital whirl and rush, and though many feet and wings are folded, how many are astir! And the wander- 84 SHASTA RAMBLES ing winds, how busy they are, and what a breadth of sound and motion they make, gUnt- ing and bubbluig about the crags of the sum mit, sifting through the woods, feeUng theu* way from grove to grove, ruffling the loose hair on the shoulders of the bears, fanning and rock ing young birds in their cradles, making a trumpet of every corolla, and carrying their fragrance around the world. In unsettled weather, when storms are grow ing, the mountain looms immensely higher, and its miles of height become apparent to all, especiaUy in the gloom of the gathering clouds, or when the storm is done and they are rolUng away, torn on the edges and melting while in the sunshine. Slight rain-storms are likely to be encountered in a trip round the mountain, but one may easily find shelter beneath well- thatched trees that shed the rain Uke a roof. Then the shining of the wet leaves is deUght- ful, and the steamy fragrance, and the burst of bird-song from a multitude of thrushes and finches and warblers that have nests in the chaparral. The nights, too, are deUghtful, watching with Shasta beneath the great starry dome. A thousand thousand voices are heard, but so finely blended they seem a part of the night itself, and make a deeper silence. And how 85 STEEP TRAILS grancHy do the great logs and branches of your campfire give forth the heat and Ught that during their long century-Uves they have so slowly gathered from the sun, storing it away in beautiful dotted cells and beads of amber gum! The neighboring trees look into the charmed circle as if the noon of another day had come, famiUar flowers and grasses that chance to be near seem fax more beautiful and impressive than by day, and as the dead trees give forth their Ught all the other riches of their lives seem to be set free and with the rejoicing flames rise again to the sky. In set ting out from Strawberry Valley, by bearing off to the northwestward a few miles you may see " , . . beneath dim aisles, in odorous beds, The slight Limisea hang its twin-born heads, And [bless] the monument of the man of flowers. Which breathes his sweet fame through the northern bowers." This is one of the few places in Califomia where the charming Unnaea is found, though it is common to the northward through Oregon and Washington. Here, too, you may find the curious but unlovable darUngtonia, a carnivo rous plant that devours bumble-bees, grass hoppers, ants, moths, and other insects, with insatiable appetite. In approaching it, its suspicious-looking yeUow-spotted hood and 86 SHASTA RAMBLES watchful attitude will be likely to make you go cautiously through the bog where it stands, as if you were approaching a dangerous snake. It also occurs in a bog near Sothern's Station on the stage-road, where I first saw it, and in other similar bogs throughout the mountains hereabouts. The "Big Spring" of the Sacramento is about a mile and a half above Sisson's, issuing from the base of a drift-covered hill. It is lined with emerald algae and mosses, and shaded with alder, wiUow, and thom bushes, which give it a fine setting. Its waters, apparently unaffected by flood or drouth, heat or cold, fall at once into white rapids with a rush and dash, as if glad to escape from the darkness to begin their wild course down the canon to th© plain, Muir's Peak, a few miles to the north of the spring, rises about three thousand feet above the plain on which it stands, and is easily climbed. The view is very fine and well repays the sUght walk to its summit, from which much of your way about the mountain may be stud ied and chosen. The view obtained of the Whitney Glacier should tempt you to visit it, since it is the largest of the Shasta glaciers and its lower portion abounds in beautiful and interesting cascades and crevasses. It is three 87 STEEP TRAILS or four miles long and terminates at an eleva tion of about nine thousand five hundred feet above sea-level, in moraine-sprinkled ice-cUffs sixty feet high. The long gray slopes leading up to the glacier seem remarkably smooth and unbroken. They are much interrupted, never theless, with abrupt, jagged precipitous gorges, which, though offering instmctive sections of the lavas for examination, would better be shunned by most people. This may be done by keeping weU down on the base untU front ing the glacier before beginning the ascent. The gorge through which the glacier is drained is raw-looking, deep and narrow, and indescribably jagged. The walls in many places overhang; in others they are beveled, loose, and shifting where the channel has been eroded by cinders, ashes, strata of firm lavas, and glacial drift, telUng of many a change from frost to fire and their attendant fioods of mud and water. Most of the drainage of the glacier vanishes at once in the porous rocks to reappear in springs in the distant valley, and it is only in time of flood that the channel carries much water; then there are several fine falls in the gorge, six hundred feet or more in height. Snow Ues in it the year round at an elevation of eight thousand five hundred feet, and in sheltered spots a thousand feet lower. Trac- 88 SHASTA RAMBLES ing this wild changing channel-gorge, gully, or canon, the sections will show Mount Shasta as a huge palimpsest, containing the records, layer upon layer, of strangely contrasted events in its fiery-icy history. But look well to your footing, for the way wiU test the skiU of the most cautious mountaineers. Regaining the low ground at the base of the mountain and holding on in your grand or bit, you pass through a belt of juniper woods, caUed "The Cedars," to Sheep Rock at the foot of the Shasta Pass. Here you strike the old emigrant road, which leads over the low divide to the eastern slopes of the mountain. In a north-northwesterly direction from the foot of the pass you may chance to find Pluto's Cave, already mentioned; but it is not easily found, since its several mouths are on a level with the general surface of the ground, and have been made simply by the faUing-in of portions of the roof. Far the most beautiful and richly furnished of the mountain caves of California occur in a thick belt of metamorphic limestone that is pretty generally developed along the western flank of the Sierra from the McCloud River to the Kaweah, a distance of nearly four hundred miles. These volcanic caves are not wanting in interest, and it is well to light a pitch-pine torch and take a walk in 89 STEEP TRAILS these dark ways of the underworld whenever opportunity offers, if for no other reason to see with new appreciation on returning to the sunshine the beauties that lie so thick about us. Sheep Rock is about twenty miles from Sisson's, and is one of the principal winter pasture-grounds of the wild sheep, from which it takes its name. It is a mass of lava present ing to the gray sage plain of Shasta VaUey a bold craggy front two thousand feet high. Its summit Ues at an elevation of five thousand five hundred feet above the sea, and has sev eral square miles of comparatively level sur face, where bunch-grass grows and the snow does not Ue deep, thus allowing the hardy sheep to pick up a Uving through the winter months when deep snows have driven them down from the lofty ridges of Shasta. From here it might be well to leave the im mediate base of the mountain for a few days and visit the Lava Beds made famous by the Modoc War. They Ue about forty miles to the northeastward, on the south shore of Rhett or Tule ^ Lake, at an elevation above sea-level of about forty-five hundred feet. They are a por tion of a flow of dense black vesicular lava, dipping northeastward at a low angle, but Uttle changed as yet by the weather, and about ' Pronounced Too'-lay. 90 SHASTA RAMBLES as destitute of soil as a glacial pavement. The surface, though smooth in a general way as seen from a distance, is dotted with hillocks and rough crater-like pits, and traversed by a network of yawning fissures, forming a com bination of topographical conditions of very striking character. The way Ues by Mount Bremer, over stretches of gray sage plains, interrupted by rough lava-slopes timbered with juniper and yellow pine, and with here and there a green meadow and a stream. This is a famous game region, and you will be Ukely to meet smaU bands of antelope, mule deer, and wild sheep. Mount Bremer is the most noted stronghold of the sheep in the whole Shasta region. Large flocks dweU here from year to year, winter and summer, de scending occasionally into the adjacent sage plains and lava-beds to feed, but ever ready to take refuge in the jagged crags of their mountain at every alarm. While traveling with a company of hunters I saw about fifty in one flock. The Van Bremer brothers, after whom the mountain is named, told me that they once cUmbed the mountain with their rifles and hounds on a grand hunt; but, after keeping up the pursuit for a week, theu- boots and clothing gave way, and the hounds were lamed 91 STEEP TRAILS and worn out without having run down a single sheep, notwithstanding they ran night and day. On smooth spots, level or ascending, the hounds gained on the sheep, but on de scending ground, and over rough masses of angular rocks they f eU hopelessly behind. Only half a dozen sheep were shot as they passed the hunters stationed near their paths circUng round the rugged summit. The full-grown bucks weigh nearly three hundred and fifty pounds. The mule deer are nearly as heavy. Their long, massive ears give them a very striking appearance. One large buck that I measured stood three feet and seven inches high at the shoulders, and when the ears were extended horizontally the distance across from tip to tip was two feet and one inch. From the Van Bremer ranch the way to the Lava Beds leads down the Bremer Meadows past many a smooth grassy knoU ahd jutting cliff, along the shore of Lower Klamath Lake, and thence across a few miles of sage plain to the brow of the waU-like bluff of lava four hun dred and fifty feet above Tule Lake. Here you are looking southeastward, and the Modoc landscape, which at once takes possession of you, Ues revealed in front. It is composed of three principal parts; on your left lies the 92 SHASTA RAMBLES bright expanse of Tule Lake, on your right an evergreen forest, and between the two are the black Lava Beds. When I first stood there, one bright day be fore sundown, the lake was fairly blooming in purple light, and was so responsive to the sky in both calmness and color it seemed itself a sky. No mountain shore hides its loveUness. It lies wide open for many a mile, veiled in no mystery but the mystery of light. The forest also was flooded with sun-purple, not a spire moving, and Mount Shasta was seen towering above it rejoicing in the ineffable beauty of the alpenglow. But neither the glorified woods on the one hand, nor the lake on the other, could at first hold the eye. That dark mysteri ous lava plain between them compelled atten tion. Here you trace yawning fissures, there clusters of somber pits; now you mark where the lava is bent and corrugated in swelUng ridges and domes, again where it breaks into a rough mass of loose blocks. Tufts of grass grow far apart here and there and small bushes of hardy sage, but they have a singed appearance and can do little to hide the blackness. Deserts are charming to those who know how to see them — all kinds of bogs, barrens, and heathy moors; but the Modoc Lava Beds have for me an uncanny look. As I gazed the purple deep- 93 STEEP TRAILS ened over all the landscape. Then fell the gloaming, making everything still more for bidding and mysterious. Then, darkness like death. Next morning the crisp, sunshiny air made even the Modoc landscape less hopeless, and we ventured down the bluff to the edge of the Lava Beds. Just at the foot of the bluff we came to a square enclosed by a stone wall. This is a graveyard where Ue buried thirty soldiers, most of whom met their fate out in the Lava Beds, as we leam by the boards marking the graves — a gloomy place to die in, and deadly- looking even without Modocs, The poor fel lows that Ue here deserve far more pity than they have ever received. Picking our way over the strange ridges and hollows of the beds, we soon came to a circular flat about twenty yards in diameter, on the shore of the lake, where the comparative smoothness of the lava and a few handfuls of soil have caused the grass tufts to grow taller. This is where Gen eral Canby was slain while seeking to make peace with the treacherous Modocs. Two or three miles farther on is the main stronghold of the Modocs, held by them so long and defiantly against all the soldiers that could be brought to the attack. Indians usu ally choose to hide in taU grass and bush and 94 SHASTA RAMBLES behind trees, where they can crouch and gUde Uke panthers, without casting up defenses that would betray their positions; but the Modoc castle is in the rock. When the Yosemite Indians made raids on the settlers of the lower Merced, they withdrew with their spoils into Yosemite VaUey; and the Modocs boasted that in case of war they had a stone house into which no white man could come as long as they cared to defend it. Yosemite was not held for a single day against the pursuing troops; but the Modoos held their fort for months, until, weary of being hemmed in, they chose to withdraw. It consists of numerous redoubts formed by the unequal subsidence of portions of the lava- flow, and a complicated network of redans abundantly supplied with saUent and reenter ing angles, being united each to the other and to the redoubts by a labyrinth of open and covered corridors, some of which expand at intervals into spacious caverns, forming as a whole the most complete natural Gibraltar I ever saw. Other castles scarcely less strong are connected with this by subterranean pas sages known only to the Indians, while the unnatural blackness of the rock out of which Nature has constructed these defenses, and the weird, inhuman physiognomy of the whole region are weU calculated to inspire terror. 95 STEEP TRAILS Deadly was the task of storming such a place. The breech-loading rifles of the Indians thrust through chinks between the rocks were ready to pick off every soldier who showed him self for a moment, while the Indians lay utterly invisible. They were familiar with byways both over and under ground, and could at any time sink suddenly out of sight like squirrels among the loose boulders. Our bewildered soldiers heard them shooting, now before, now behind them, as they gUded from place to place through fissures and subterranean passes, all the while as invisible as Gyges wearing his magic ring. To judge from the few I have seen, Modocs are not very amiable-looking people at best. When, therefore, they were crawling stealthily in the gloomy caverns, unkempt and begrimed and with the glare of war in their eyes, they must have seemed very demons of the volcanic pit. Captain Jack's cave is one of the many somber cells of the castle. It measures twenty- five or thirty feet in diameter at the entrance, and extends but a short distance in a hori zontal direction. The floor is littered with the bones of the animals slaughtered for food dur- uig the war. Some eager archaeologist may hereafter discover this cabin and startle his world by announcing another of the Stone Age 96 SHASTA RAMBLES caves. The sun shines freely into its mouth, and graceful bunches of grass and eriogonums and sage grow about it, doing what they can toward its redemption from degrading associ ations and making it beautiful. Where the lava meets the lake there are some fine curving bays, beautifully embroidered with rushes and polygonums, a favorite resort of waterfowl. On our return, keeping close along shore, we caused a noisy plashing and beating of wings among cranes and geese. The ducks, less wary, kept their places, merely swimming in and out through openings in the rushes, rippling the glassy water, and raising spangles ui their wake. The countenance of the lava-beds became less and less forbidding. Tufts of pale grasses, relieved on the jet rocks, looked Uke ornaments on a mantel, thick- furred mats of emerald mosses appeared in damp spots next the shore, and I noticed one tuft of smaU ferns. From year to year in the kindly weather the beds are thus gathering beauty — beauty for ashes. Returning to Sheep Rock and following the old emigrant road, one is soon back again be neath the snows and shadows of Shasta, and the Ash Creek and McCloud Glaciers come into view on the east side of the mountain. They are broad, mgged, crevassed cloudUke 97 STEEP TRAILS masses of down-grinding ice, pouring forth streams of muddy water as measures of the work they are doing in sculpturing the rocks beneath them; very unlike the long, majestic glaciers of Alaska that riverlike go winding down the valleys through the forests to the sea. These, with a few others as yet nameless, are Ungering remnants of once great glaciers that occupied the canons now taken by the rivers, and in a few centuries will, under present con ditions, vanish altogether. The rivers of the granite south half of the Sierra are outspread on the peaks in a shining network of small branches, that divide again and again into small dribbling, purling, oozing threads drawing their sources from the snow and ice of the surface. They seldom sink out of sight, save here and there in moraines or glaciers, or, early in the season, beneath banks and bridges of snow, soon to issue again. But in the north half, laden with rent and porous lava, small tributary streams are rare, and the rivers, flowing for a time beneath the sky of rock, at length burst forth into the Ught in generous volume from seams and caverns, filtered, cool, and sparkling, as if their bondage in darkness, safe from the vicissitudes of the weather in their youth, were only a blessing. Only a very smaU portion of the water de- 98 SHASTA RAMBLES rived from the melting ice and snow of Shasta flows down its flanks on the surface. Probably ninety-nine per cent of it is at once absorbed and drained away beneath the porous lava-folds of the mountain to gush forth, filtered and pure, in the form of immense springs, so large, some of them, that they give birth to rivers that start on theu- journey beneath the sun, full- grown and perfect without any childhood. Thus the Shasta River issues from a large lake- like spring in Shasta Valley, and about two thirds of the volume of the McCloud gushes forth in a grand spring on the east side of the mountain, a few miles back from its immediate base. To find the big spring of the McCloud, or "Mud Glacier," which you wiU know by its size (it being the largest on the east side), you make your way through sunny, parkUke woods of yellow pine, and a shaggy growth of chaparral, and come in a few hours to the river flowing in a gorge of moderate depth, cut abruptly down into the lava plain. Should the volume of the stream where you strike it seem small, then you will know that you are above the spring ; if large, nearly equal to its volume at its confluence with the Pitt River, then you are below it; and in either case have only to foUow the river up or down until you come to it. 99 STEEP TRAILS Under certain conditions you may hear the roar of the water rushing from the rock at a distance of half a mile, or even more; or you may not hear it until within a few rods. It comes in a grand, eager gush from a horizontal seam m the face of the waU of the river-gorge in the form of a partially interrupted sheet nearly seventy-five yards in width, and at a height above the river-bed of about forty feet, as nearly as I could make out without the means of exact measurement. For about fifty yards this flat current is in one unbroken sheet, and flows in a lacework of plashing, upleaping spray over boulders that are clad in green silky algae and water-mosses to meet the smaller part of the river, which takes its rise farther up. Joining the river at right angles to its course, it at once swells its volume to three times its size above the spring. The vivid green of the boulders beneath the water is very striking, and colors the entire stream with the exception of the portions broken into foam. The color is chiefly due to a species of algae which seems common in springs of this sort. That any kind of plant can hold on and grow beneath the wear of so boisterous a current seems truly wonderful, even after taking into consideration the free dom of the water from cutting drift, and the 100 SHASTA RAMBLES constancy of its volume and temperature throughout the year. The temperature is about 45°, and the height of the river above the sea is here about three thousand feet, Asplenium, epilobium, heuchera, hazel, dogwood, and alder make a luxurious fringe and setting; and the forests of Douglas spruce along the banks are the finest I have ever seen in the Sierra, From the spring you may go with the river — a fine traveling companion — down to the sportsman's fishing station, where, if you are getting hungry, you may replenish your stores; or, bearing off around the mountain by Huckle berry Valley, complete your circuit without interruption, emerging at length from beneath the outspread arms of the sugar pine at Straw berry Valley, with all the new wealth and health gathered in your walk; not tired in the least, and only eager to repeat the round. Tracing rivers to their fountains makes the most charming of travels. As the life-blood of the landscapes, the best of the wilderness comes to their banks, and not one dull passage is found in all thek eventful histories. Tracing I the McCloud to its highest springs, and over the divide to the fountains of Fall River, near Fort Crook, thence down that river to its con fluence with the Pitt, on from there to the vol canic region about Lassen's Butte, through 101 STEEP TRAILS the Big Meadows among the sources of the Feather River, and down through forests of sugar pine to the fertile plains of Chico — this is a glorious saunter and imposes no hardship. Food may be had at moderate intervals, and the whole circuit forms one ever-deepening, broadening stream of enjoyment. Fall River is a very remarkable stream. It is only about ten miles long, and is composed of springs, rapids, and falls — springs beautifully shaded at one end of it, a showy fall one hun dred and eighty feet high at the other, and a rush of crystal rapids between. The banks are fringed with mbus, rose, plum, cherry, spiraea, azalea, honeysuckle, hawthorn, ash, alder, elder, aster, goldenrod, beautiful grasses, sedges, mshes, mosses, and ferns with fronds as large as the leaves of palms — all in the midst of a richly forested landscape. Nowhere within the limits of CaUfornia are the forests of yellow pine so extensive and exclusive as on the headwaters of the Pitt. They cover the mountains and all the lower slopes that border the wide, open valleys which abound there, pressing forward in imposing ranks, seemingly the hardiest and most firmly estabUshed of all the northern coniferse. The volcanic region about Lassen's Butte I have already in part described. Miles of its 102 SHASTA RAMBLES flanks are dotted with hot springs, many of them so sulphurous and boisterous and noisy in their boiUng that they seem incUned to become geysers Uke those of the Yellowstone. The ascent of Lassen's Butte is an easy walk, and the views from the summit are extremely telUng, Innumerable lakes and craters sur round the base; forests of the charming Wil- Uamson spruce fringe lake and crater aUke; the sunbeaten plains to east and west make a striking show, and the wilderness of peaks and ridges stretch indefinitely away on either hand. The lofty, icy Shasta, towering high above all, seems but an hour's walk from you, though the distance in an air-line is about sixty miles. The "Big Meadows" Ue near the foot of Lassen's Butte, a beautiful spacious basin set in the heart of the richly fcH-ested mountains, scarcely surpassed in the grandeur of its sur roundings by Tahoe. During the Glacial Period it was a mer de glace, then a lake, and now a level meadow shining with bountiful springs and streams. In the number and size of its big spring fountains it excels even Shasta. One of the largest that I measured forms a lakelet nearly a hundred yards in diameter, and, in the generous flood it sends forth offers one of the most teUing symbols of Nature's affluence to be found in the mountains. 103 STEEP TRAILS The great wilds of our country, once held to be boundless and inexhaustible, are being rap idly invaded and overmn in every direction, and everything destructible in them is being destroyed. How far destruction may go it is not easy to guess. Every landscape, low and high, seems doomed to be trampled and harried. Even the sky is not safe from scath — blurred and blackened whole summers together with the smoke of fires that devour the woods. The Shasta region is still a fresh unspoiled wilderness, accessible and available for travel ers of every kind and degree. Would it not then be a fine thing to set it apart Uke the Yellowstone and Yosemite as a National Park for the welfare and benefit of all mankind, pre serving its fountains and forests and all its glad Ufe in primeval beauty? Very Uttle of the region can ever be more valuable for any other use — certainly not for gold nor for grain. No private right or interest need suffer, and thousands yet unborn would come from far and near and bless the country for its wise and benevolent forethought. VI THE CITY OF THE SAINTS * The mountains rise grandly round about this curious city, the Zion of the new Saints, so grandly that the city itself is hardly visible. The Wahsatch Range, snow-laden and adomed with glacier-sculptured peaks, stretches con tinuously along the eastern horizon, forming the boundary of the Great Salt Lake Basin; while across the valley of the Jordan south- westward from here, you behold the Oquirrh Range, about as snowy and lofty as the Wahsatch. To the northwest your eye skims the blue levels of the great lake, out of the midst of which rise island mountains, and be yond, at a distance of fifty miles, is seen the picturesque wall of the lakeside mountains blending with the lake and the sky. The glacial developments of these superb ranges are sharply sculptured peaks and crests, with ample wombs between them where the ancient snows of the glacial period were col lected and transformed into ice, and ranks of ' Letter dated "Salt Lake City, Utah, May 15, 1877." [Editor.] 105 STEEP TRAILS profound shadowy canons, while moraines commensurate with the lofty fountains extend into the vaUeys, forming far the grandest series of glacial monuments I have yet seen this side of the Sierra. In beginning this letter I meant to describe the city, but in the company of these noble old mountains, it is not easy to bend one's atten tion upon anything else. Salt Lake cannot be called a very beautiful town, neither is there anything ugly or repulsive about it. From the slopes of the Wahsatch foothills, or old lake benches, toward Fort Douglas it is seen to occupy the sloping gravelly delta of City Creek, a fine, hearty stream that comes pouring from the snows of the mountains through a majestic glacial canon; and it is just where this stream comes forth into the Ught on the edge of the valley of the Jordan that the Mormons have built theu- new Jerusalem. At first sight there is nothing very marked in the external appearance of the town except ing its leafiness. Most of the houses are veiled with trees, as if set down in the midst of one grand orchard; and seen at a little distance they appear Uke a field of glacier boulders overgrown with aspens, such as one often meets in the upper vaUeys of the Califomia Sierra, for only the angular roofs are clearly visible. 106