Yale University Library 39002000952367 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Purchased from the income of the bequest of WILLIAM ROBERTSON COE Honorary M.A. 1949, for material in the field of American Studies. EDV/IN STANTON PICKES - HIS BOOK -4^9 /U^^^ /A^ /2^-.^/AJi^ /'V^^^>^^»'X-^g, ^lY DIARY. MY DIAEY; WBITTEN DUElNO A TOUR THROUGH CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, I.N' THE AUTUMN OF 1882, BY JOHN CAMM HOLMES. BV UNWIN BEOTHEES, CHILWOETH AND LONDON. MDOCCLXXXIII. ^ J^ < ¦^ ONWIN BEOTHEBS, THE (iBESHAM; PBESS, CHIL-WOBTH AND LONDON. DIAEY. August 16, 1882. Wednesday. At one o'clock this afternoon I started from Eingwood for the station, with my mother, Maggie, and Bertha. They -went to Victoria, coming on later to Euston, -while I went to Holborn direct. Previous to leaving home a small scene occurred with "Gyp," who, thinking he was going for a drive, hopped into the cab, and was only ejected after an application of the stick. About 3.30, after I had lunched at the refreshment -room, my father and mother and sisters, and afterwards Mr. and Mrs. Abbott, with Ethel and Charley, arrived. Imme diately notes were handed to me, and I received my commission as paymaster- general; Charley was made baggage-master. Our luggage consisted of six large Saratoga and four state-room trunks, besides several rug-rolls and dressing-bags. Altogether the excess came to £2, and this only among five people. Our train was timed to start at four, so, at five minutes before that hour, we got into our carriage. ii DUEY. a comfortable and well-arranged saloon, with two divisions and a lavatory. And now commenced the final farewells from the Holmes family, which were only terminated by the guard's whistle and the train moving off. My mother and father and sisters and myself waved our handkerchiefs as if life depended on them, and until we could see each other no more. After a very pleasant journey we reached Liverpool at nine, and immediately proceeded to Eberle's Eoyal Hotel. Here an oyster and grouse supper awaited us, and I believe we did it justice. Mr. Eberle came in while we were discussing it, and gave Mr. Abbott the news of the place. Previous to roosting, Charley and I played a game of billiards. We had a room together. August 17. Thursday. After breakfast Charley and I took a stroll down the town and docks, and made several final purchases of fruit, &c. At the end of the landing-stage we saw a cattle vessel unloading. The poor brutes had to walk up a slippery gangway from the lower to the upper deck, and then round several right-angle corners to a still more slippery gangway for the shore. At about at least a dozen points between the hold and the top of the landing-stage were stationed men with sticks, ever ready to give the poor helpless brutes a good LIVEEPOOL. 3 blow. On the flanks of the animals were a cross and crown, about which, however, I could learn nothing. They might have belonged to the government, and on their way to become beef for the troops in Egypt. We went as far as the large flour and wheat ware houses, and then walked along the street facing the docks, where every other house is a " pub," and thence by Water Street, to the hotel. At one o'clock we all had lunch, and half an hour afterwards took cabs, with the luggage behind in a cart, for the landing- stage. Here we found the tender with a crowd of people round her — emigrants and their friends, and various people seeing each other off. At two we cast ofi' from the stage, and were fairly cut off from the shore. The Sarmatian of the Allan Line for Quebec, the boat we intended to cross in, was anchored fully a couple of miles off, opposite New Brighton. The docks and the shipping were a splendid sight as we steamed down to her. On approaching she looked an enormous vessel, and strong enough to face any storm. She has three masts and one funnel painted red with a black top. Her length is about 400 feet, and her breadth about 40 feet ; she draws twenty -six feet of water. Numerous emigrants watched our arrival from the decks. On stepping aboard we saw them pass the doctor's examination. He looked at each in the face, and some of the babies' clothes were taken off to show him their DIAET. chests. They number in all six hundred. There appear to be whole families going out as well as single men and women. They are from all nations. We observed a good number of Germans and Scandi navians. Some English and Irish whom we noticed on the tender were very downcast on leaving the old country, the women utterly breaking down. Am(5ng our first day's experiences was an inspection of this huge vessel's machinery. The first engineer took us over. We descended among innumerable Jumboish cranks and shafts, and then lower still, underneath these, to the bottom of the vessel into the shaft tunnel. This is one hundred and fifty feet long, and where daylight never comes ; it leads from the engine-room to the screw, and contains the shaft, three feet in circumference. At four o'clock the last tender arrived, and in it my brother-in-law, George Eooth, and Mr. Edmunds with his boy. Half an hour later the last bell was rung, and all strangers departed. My state-room, where I have to sleep for the next ten days, is near the saloon. There are two berths in it. My companion, whom I found out about five o'clock, is a one-armed gentleman from Montreal. As he was unable to climb into the upper one, he exchanged with me for my lower berth, and so I obtained the one I wished for. After dinner at six everybody went on deck, and at 7,30 we com menced to steam ahead. Gradually the land became S.S. SAEMATIAN. 5 fainter and fainter, till we lost it in the darkness which had been slowly coming on. As we could not get over the bar till ten, we went but slowly, and at times almost stopped. After crossing, a large four -masted and three - funnelled steamer inward bound passed us. She looked very fine, all her port holes alight. Mrs. Abbott and Ethel have the cap tain's cabin, a fine large, airy deck-house, while Mr. Abbott and Charley have the chief officer's, which is similar only smaller. August 18. Friday. This morning Charley and I managed to slope into the bath-room while a large crowd were waiting out side, and to have a good sea-water ducking. We breakfasted at 8.30, and had plenty of eatables to choose from. Altogether the feeding is very good. The vessel was passing between the Irish coast, somewhere north of Belfast and Wigtownshire, Scot land. As both shores were some ten to fifteen miles distant, one could only see that they were pretty high and hilly. On looking at the Irish side through my glasses I could see numerous little white houses dotted about on the sides of the hills. There were very few on the Scotch. At eleven we lost sight of the Scottish coast until we came to the Mull of Cantyre and Torr Point ; we then rounded the north- b DIAEY. east corner of Ireland with its lighthouse and steered along the northern coast, gradually losing sight of Scotland altogether. There was hardly a cloud in the sky, the sun shone brilliantly, and the sea breeze tempered the heat. Before entering Lough Foyle, we passed the Giant's Causeway about three miles off, and could just see the enormous pillar-looking things through our glasses. They appeared about two hundred feet high. After lunch we entered the Lough and steamed on past hilly shores numer ously studded with whitewashed cottages. Oppo site the small town of Moville we laid to at about 3.30 and waited for the mails from Londonderry. A tender with some more passengers, and a shore boat with the pilot, came alongside. Into the latter Mr. Abbott, Charley, and myself, and a dozen others descended down a long rope ladder, and were rowed ashore. Here we hired an Irish jaunting car, with a real Jarvey to drive us. Directly we got on he started off at a gallop through the desolate- looking main street of dirty white houses. We had to sit tight and hold on like grim death. He went on at this pace for five miles, as if racing the cars behind, to an old dilapidated ivy-grown castle by the shore, which we had previously passed in the steamer. It was shown to us by the custodian, a dirty old woman, whom we christened Mrs. Donovan. She gave us a long account of its history, which MOVILLE. resulted in our going away with the knowledge "that there was a king, and his name was O'Neil, and he had lived there." Previous to our departure I looked into this lady's cabin, and saw the "Eint Payer " in undisputed possession of the best place before the smouldering kitchen flre, while several fowls were strutting about the apartment. It was curious to see the mounds of peat beside each cottage and the barefooted women about them. We took a piece of peat and some shamrock on board to Mrs. Abbott. When the time came for paying our Jarvey I gave him 8s., but he was most indignant and threw it on the ground, and made a deuce of a row. As I had no intention of being murdered by a band of Land Leaguers or wild Irish, I gave him 2s. more, and presently had the satisfaction of hearing that he had got at least twice as much as his proper fare. They say these fellows are never satisfied. Our friend the priest told us a good story about an Irish cabdriver at Brighton where the fare is 2s. 6d. an hour. After his riverence had got out and asked the fare, the cabby said, " Wheell, Father, if it was for yesilf I'd axe ye nothing, but as it's me master's cab I'll axe yer honour for 3s. 6d." When we got on board, the mail tender had ar rived, and George Eooth and friends to whom I had previously bid farewell were alongside in the other tender. At five o'clock we again started, and by 8 DIARY. dinner-time were well out to sea. At this meal our ranks gradually commenced to thin, and hurried ascents were made to the deck. The saloon is a very fine apartment. It is the full breadth of the ship, and has two long tables. It would probably be better if it were amidships and not astern, as there one feels the full force of the screw and the pitching or rolling of the vessel. We now began to observe that there are some people on board who do nothing else but walk up and down, up and down the decks all day. Chief among them are two very ladylike ladies' men, so nice. One is eminently a Pretty Man, so we have christened him accordingly ; but the other is not so fair to look upon ; he walks, or rather slides, with one shoulder above the other, and is called Ally Sloper. They have cut all we other young men out; and they almost absolutely monopolize the eligible ladies who are not ill. After eight we lost the land, and were finally cut off from the shore and were pitching on the long Atlantic rollers. August 19. Saturday. This morning I had a bath, but felt more or less queer after my first night on the ocean. At breakfast there were but a very few people. I myself had to depart early. Mrs. Abbott and Ethel did not appear MAL DE MER. 9 all day, while we gentlemen sat about and slept, and were little fitted for aught else. As it was simply im possible without an utter disregard to one's feelings to proceed below, we got that " awfully jolly fellow " — which, it may be explained, is Charley's name for one of the stewards — to bring us our meals to Mr. Abbott's deck-house. Towards evening the wind freshened up, and to a landsman the sea was rolling moun tains high, and even the wheel-man observed that it was a " bit fresh." Going below from the fresh air on deck to my stuffy state-room, where all the ports were closed^ most quickly sealed my fate. With the greatest difficulty I rolled into bed. August 20. Sunday. When I got out of my berth I felt very queer, and with the greatest difficulty crawled up on deck to the smoke-room. I breakfasted on biscuits and brandy and water with one or two other unfortunates, and lay down for the whole morning on the cushions. The weather was very rough; we pitched tremen dously, and shipped a good many seas. Once when I was sitting upon a stool at the door, and feeling a little better, a huge wave came on board, and completely drenched me. Before we knew where we were we were all sitting in three feet of water, and more 10 DIAEY. miserable than ever. We couldn't laugh. Mr. Abbott, when crossing the deck, was ducked twice, and did not appear the whole day afterwards. As for the rest of the Abbott family they wisely kept to their beds and were not seen at all. In the afternoon I felt better, and had a bottle of stout. It considerably revived me ; so much so that I was able with some others to take soup, beef, and potatoes for dinner at six o'clock in the smoke- room. We were a most miserable dinner-party ; only three of us could sit up ; but we had great fun in fielding glasses and plates as they floated gracefully across the table at every pitch of the vessel. Among the party were two Sandhurst men who had been spun at their exams and were going out to learn farm ing in Ontario ; an old Eugby and Oxford man, about to see what he could do in the estate agency line in Canada ; and a young lieutenant going out to join his battery at Halifax. The accounts we received from below were appalling ; nearly everybody we asked for was ill in bed, and only seven people dined in the saloon out of 145. This was too much of a good thing ; so with my land agency friend, whom we had christened John Bull, I determined to spend the night in the smoke-room. We wrapped ourselves up well in ulsters and rugs, and soon after 11.30, when Sam, the deck steward, put the lights out, fell fast asleep. LIFE ON BOAED. 11 August 21. Monday. This morning was comparatively calm, so, after stufling my handkerchief well over my nasal organ, I ventured into the saloon. The odours between this compartment and the companion way are not too pleasant, and this was why I took care of my nose. I believe the strange and mysterious smells which come from a ship's pantry, and the close atmosphere of a state-room, have quite as much to do with sea sickness as the pitching and rolling of the vessel. After breakfast we had numerous reappearances among the ladies, and the Pretty Man and Ally Sloper trudged them all up and down the deck. One lady is a most persistent walker. She goes it at all hours of the day as if her life depended on it. We have the military element on board, a colonel in the Engineers, with his wife and two little girls. He has an appointment at the Military Academy at Kingston, Canada. August 22. Tuesday. After breakfast some lively ones started a pool in the smoking-room. So many nunabers are taken and drawn for, and then sold at public auction. The pool is given to the owner of the number, which corresponds with the number of the miles 12 DIARY. done by the ship at midday. Of course likely numbers fetch a good price, sometimes forty shil lings, and there is generally six or seven pounds left in the pool, when the half for the Liverpool Seaman's Orphanage has been deducted. On board we have the adjutant and one or two members of the Canadian Wimbledon team. They are very jolly fellows, and some remember my tent at Wimbledon from the lilies. In the evening some of my Sunday smoking-room acquaintances and myself had a supper of sardines on toast and bottled beer in the saloon. We played cards, and had rather an uproarious time of it. Pretty Man was heard to say, " Ugh ! what low fellows ! they eat supper and drink bottled beer — the brutes." I am afraid we shall never get on with the ladies now.August 28. Wednesday. Before breakfast I had the hose played on me by the boatswain. It was rather cold at first, but it has sent all feelings of sea-sickness away. The lady-killers have been hard at it to-day, but their efforts are not now 80 deadly. In fact, they are beginning to be discarded by some of the fair ones. This is owing to the reappearance of my sea-sick smoking-room friends. In the evening we again played cards and had supper, and enjoyed ourselves immensely. ICBBEEGS AND WHALES. 13 August 24. Thursday. To-day we are in the ice-track, and have been fortunate enough to see several icebergs and schools of whales. Two of the bergs were very fine, and we passed within half a mile of them. They were huge snow- topped masses, and their enormous pinnacles looked very much like some tremendous human teeth. At the base the waves broke in spray against them. Their colour at the top was pure white, a little lower down blue, and beneath that bottle green. I remember there was one which had a peculiarly shaped piece of ice on the summit ; every one looked at this through glasses for a while, and some said it was the Polar Bear. The whales only betrayed their presence by blow ing off; that is, spouting into the air columns of water which look like steam. Occasionally one would show half its huge black carcase out of the water and quickly disappear again. At about three o'clock this afternoon we sighted land, and everybody ran to the ship's side to look at it. At first we all said it was a long black cloud, but gradually it became clearer, and we were told we were nearing Belleisle. Some little time after this land was sighted on the port bow ; this was Cape Bauld, on the northern coast of Newfoundland. On passing 14 DIARY. through the Straits of Belleisle, where there is a lighthouse on the island, both shores looked rugged and bare, the Newfoundland coast appearing flat. In the evening we lost sight of them, and entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence. August 25. Friday. After lunch to-day we sighted the island of Anti- costi. We did not approach close enough to see any thing but bare cliffs. It is ninety miles long, and was not lost till the evening. After dinner some of us got up an impromptu concert. Mrs. Abbott sang and Ethel played, and others favoured the company. I sung John Peel and the Massacre of the MacPhersons, but only on condition that the rest of my compa triots should join in the chorus. And so they did, so much so, that the audience applauded and com pelled us to deliver with perfect artistic taste, 0 Chafoosezlum and a glee of the Three Blind Mice. We were only twelve, but I think we convinced the audience that our lungs were quite healthy. Some of us understood what house singing meant, which, by the way, I have heard disparagingly compared to a chorus by drunken navvies on a Saturday night. THE ST. LAWRENCE. 15 August 26. Saturday. This morning we found ourselves in the Eiver St. Lawrence. The vessel was close in to the southern shore, but we could not see much of the northern, the river being from twenty to thirty miles wide. All day we have been steering up this magnificent river. The pretty little villages along the shore, all with their miniature church, are chiefly French. Behind them are high ranges of forest-clad hills. At eleven we were met off Eimouski by an odd- looking steam tender, with half of its machinery on deck. The mails were speedily put on board, and some of our friends went by her also. We were rather sorry to lose them. One feels after a week on the ocean that you have known people all your life. Near us were H.M.S. Northumberland ^ emd Phcenix. In the afternoon we passed Eivere de Loup, a Canadian watering-place, and the entrance to the river Saguenay. After dinner we had another concert, but this time a strictly proper one. Its object was a collection for the Liverpool Seamen's Orphanage. Pretty Man and the military section said they were not musical, and attempted to cut the collection. They were caught, however, by Mr. Abbott and the doctor. They were tittering and jeering among the few who were ill- 16 DIARY. mannered enough to stay on deck and stare through the skylight at our good-natured attempts to amuse. We finished the evening with a supper, and I don't know how many bottles of champagne. Anyhow, it was the last night and we meant to enjoy ourselves. August 27. Sunday. I awoke at six and found that the steamer was going along slowly close in shore. By the time I was on deck, we were alongside the wharf at Point Levi, opposite Quebec, and close to the Grand Trunk terminus. The view of Quebec and the scenery around was most surpassingly beautiful ; the citadel looked very much like Ehrenbreitstein on the Ehine, and the surrounding hills almost the counterpart of those which are seen on approaching the Tyrol from Munich. Everything, however, was on a larger scale, and quite dwarfed European scenery. After breakfast we went ashore. Previously to this, the conductor of the superintendent's oflScial car, which had been awaiting our arrival, came on board with all sorts of letters for Mr. Abbott. It was soon arranged that we should go on to Montreal by the 10.30 train. On going ashore we were most assiduously attended to by " Gideon," our ear conductor, and the baggage master. Our numerous pieces of luggage were not the QUEBEC. 17 least trouble to us, and the custom-house officials were most polite. The waggons whieh took our lug gage from the quay to the car were curious-looking affairs, like wine merchants' barrel carts in our country, only larger. They had a shoot arrange ment like' a contractor's cart, and when they had brought the " pieces " to the required place, the whole lot were shot out in the most unceremonious way. At nine o'clock we took two carriages, which were also rather odd — very high off the wheels> and very light and springy, and with plenty of silver ornaments ; they had seats for four. We were attended by the local Grand Trunk passengers' agent, and were immediately driven to the ferry for Quebec, which conveyed carriages and all across the river. We first inspected a huge river steamer, two stories high. There were 113 berths, a general saloon thirty feet high, splendidly appointed, and the usual domestic offices. It was a floating palace. Proceeding up a very steep hill, through the old town, with its wooden houses, we reached the ram parts. The view from here is only surpassed by that from the promenade in front of Dufferin Terrace, and from immediately below the citadel. The river, some two to four miles wide, extends for about fifteen miles towards the Falls of Montmorency, and forms a most beautiful lake. Ships of the largest tonnage were anchored here and there, and many 3 18 DIARY. sailing boats flitted over its placid bosom. Imme diately opposite, on the dther side, was Point Levi, where we landed, while on our left some miles distant, with the hills immediately behind, were the suburbs of Beaufort and St. Boch. The rock on which we were standing is some 200 feet or more high. It is a veritable Gibraltar, and appears almost impregnable. Driving out to the Plains of Abraham, we passed several handsome villas, and noticed the footwalks along the road all made of timber, which is the cheapest material here for paving. Near the handsome stone-built prison we came to the column erected to Wolfe and the British troops who fell on taking the city in 1759. It is a handsome monument, and is on the very spot where Wolfe fell. The view of the field from here gives one a very fair idea of the difficulties our troops had to over come. There is also an obelisk on the terrace to the French general, Montcalm, and Wolfe. Ee- turning to the landing stage through the town, we were again ferried across, and reached our car attached to the train about eleven o'clock. On the whole, Quebec gives one the idea that the inhabi tants are wilfully letting the place go to ruin, so little care is taken of the streets, public buildings, and ramparts, and other interesting antiquities which connect it with the Old World, The train which had been awaiting our return OUR CAR, 19 consisted of four baggage cars, two Pullmans, two ordinary cars, and our most luxuriant " official car," When all were " aboard," as the conductor bawled out, the odd-looking engine, with its great smoke stack, lantern, cow-catcher, and bell, com menced to haul us along. Our car had two large saloons, one at each end, with couches, chairs, and writing tables. In the centre, leading off a small passage which connected them, were two luxuriantly appointed bedrooms, with four-post bedsteads, wash ing stands, and toilet tables ; a lavatory, and a small kitchen, with all the fittings to cook for a dozen people. One of the saloons was used as a smoking-room, and the other as a sitting-room. There were windows all round, and we were able to see the country well. At either end was a platform, Gideon was most attentive, and told us all about everything, the line, towns, and scenery. He has been twelve years on the car. There is water on board for eight days. We walked through the whole train, and found several of our friends from the Sarmatian. The Pullmans are the same as in England, but larger ; the ordinary cars are different from anything we have at home. They are sixty feet long, with a gangway down the centre, and have rows of seats for two each, ranged down the sides. They are the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class of the country, and everybody has to ride in them, unless they pay 20 DIARY. extra to go into the Pullmans. All the cars had attendants on them ; the two Pullmans had one white conductor, and two black porters, one to each car. They were good-humoured fellows, continually grinning and showing their teeth and the whites of their eyes. They had a neat blue uniform with white peaked forage caps. The train went along the river for some distance, and when we left it there was nothing but wood on each side. One noticed more than anything the straightness of the line, which is only single. The rails are nailed on to the sleepers or ties, as they are called, and^ no chairs of any description are used. Also the signals, and points or switches, which instead of being sharp, as in England, are quite blunt. At Eichmond, surrounded by park like scenery, the train halted for twenty minutes to enable us to lunch. There was any amount of pushing about and scrambling for the eatables, especially on the part of a Scotch gentleman ; but as we had telegraphed ahead, we were tolerably comfortable. Starting off again, the scenery on pass ing the Eichelieu Eiver was very beautiful. Here, fifteen years ago, a train went into the river, the bridge was therefore approached and crossed with care. At 6.15 we reached the junction in front of the Victoria Tubular Bridge, and were in sight of Mon treal. Here a pig train with thirty two-storied cars MONTREAL. 21 passed us from the west for Boston. The grunters were mostly black, and there were many hundreds of them. They had been three days travelling, and are disembarked once a day for food and water. The Victoria Tubular Bridge is considered one of the most marvellous engineering wonders of the world. It is perfectly straight, and two miles long. When the train is in the middle it is impossible to see either end. We -n'ere eight minutes going through. It has twenty-three piers, and is 22 feet high, and 16 feet wide. It cost $6,300,000, and was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1860. At the station Mr. Fowler, of New York, met Mr. Abbott. We were soon driven off to the Windsor Hotel, where, after a good bath and dinner, we were only too glad to get to bed. Windsor Hotel, Montreal, August 28. Monday. This hotel is on a most extensive scale. They can put up five hundred guests. On entering there is a large hall with white and black marble paving. At the further end are tobacco and cigar stalls, flanked by railway ticket, telephone, and the general hotel offices. Leading off are the lavatories, hairdresser's shop, and bar. The dining-hall, a magnificent apart- 22 DIARY. ment, is on the first floor, and the drawing-rooms are round about it. At breakfast this morning we noticed Mr. Conway, the London actor, and our old friend Ally Sloper. There is a Scientific Congress now in session here, containing some of the ugliest- looking male and female "missing links" one would wish to see. They all wear red ribbons, and discuss the origin of the humble bee. This morning Mr. Abbott, Charley, Mr. Fowler, and myself were driven down to the Grand Trunk general offices, a handsome red-brick building near the river. After an interview with Mr. Wainwright, the assistant general manager, who is a very polite and efficient cicerone to Mr. Abbott, and is generally "putting him through" all Grand Trunk matters, we started for the works, at tended by the locomotive superintendent. We were taken through the engine-shops, where they turn out an engine a week ; the lamp, model ling, and motion shops, as well as the car-shop, where we noticed several cars in a slightly knocked-about condition. One huge driving-wheel had rope bands instead of leather ; they are supposed to be more economical. The workmen — and they number over 1000 — are well looked after. We visited their dining-hall, which contains a small stage and a library. Here all the daily papers are kept, and the monthly journals taken in. The librarian showed us his album, with photographs of distinguished THE GRAND TRUNK RAILROAD WORKS. 23 visitors. Mr. Abbott is going to send his. On the whole the works give one the appearance of a small arsenal. Everybody is busy, and the place is clean and well kept. They cover an immense space of ground, but perhaps this is no criterion where ground is not particularly dear. In the afternoon Mr. and Mrs. Abbott were invited to a garden party at Mr, Sargent's, the traffic manager, Mr, Abbott, Ethel, Charley, and myself went about four, in top hats, &c,, Mrs. Abbott not feeling well. The house was a stone one, approached by a drive through two or three acres of ground. There were a number of people there, and a band on the terrace overlooking the town. There were only two pretty-looking girls present, and one only was striking. Some of them dressed well, but nothing like one would have seen at a similar occa sion in England. Most of the men wore top hats and black coats. One " scientist" appeared in evening dress, and looked accordingly. I am only writing here what I saw, and do not for one moment find fault with our Canadian kindred for not, as some do on our side of the water, making dress and parade the chief object of life. However, I think our party took the shine out of the lot. " We had 'em all on," and our togs were not so old-fashioned as some of our neighbours. At dinner, which was better served than last night, we had a look at the people. Pretty faces are 24 DIARY. remarkable only by their absence, and figures there are none. We had some Indian corn, which is very sweet, potatoes stewed in cream, and some mush, but no other novelties, except, in fact, the way in which the whole dinner was served. So far, we have sat down to a perfectly bare table at every meal. Slowly the waiter, who is a citizen and a voter, brings some knives, forks, and napkins, and doesn't particularly hurry himself. The dishes are brought as ordered, the plan of the dinner being a table d'hote, with a menu. Iced water is taken at every meal, and is found everywhere. It was in our car yesterday, the Grand Trunk offices this morning, in all the rooms at the hotel, and it is hard to find a place without it. Ice is very cheap, seven dollars only being paid for twenty pounds to be delivered each morning from April to November, After dinner Charley and I strolled down to the St. Lawrence Hall — another large hotel, further in the city. Here we found some of our supper party from the Sarmatian just off to Toronto, After a final libation with them we returned to the hotel and bed. August 29. Tuesday. We did nothing particular this morning save pack our trunks and stroll about. This city is named from the hill or small wood-covered mountain which lies LACHINE RAPIDS, 25 behind it. This was called Mont Eoyal by the French, and the city is situated on some undulating ground between it and the river. It is laid out in blocks, the peculiarity of the streets being that they are nearly all planted with shade-trees, and give the place a very pleasing appearance. The houses are mostly substan tially built of stone ; and there are some fine public buildings and places, notably the English Cathedral, the Court House, the City Hall, and Victoria Square, with a statue of the Queen. Some of the streets are fine and handsome, and the whole city gives one the idea that it was built on a well-con sidered and carefully carried out plan. It has not, however, the smartness and neatness of an European city, especiaUy as to roads. At 4.30 we started for Lachine, where we boarded a steamer for the rapids. Opposite was the Indian village of Ottawawa, where, however, there are very few, if any, pure redskins. After steaming a mile or so we came in sight of the rapids, which, in the distance, look like long blue lines between the two islands in the centre of the river. As we ap proached the water became more turbulent, and swirled and eddied in great circles round the boat. Great care is taken on board the steamers, men being stationed with an extra tiller in case the steam gear fails. The channel directly between the two islands is the most dangerous part of the rapids. Here the 26 DIARY. river is lashed into foam, and we seemed to literally shave past rocks, around which, on looking back from the steamer, the river appears to descend in steps. We were all supposed to be wrought up to the highest pitch of excitement, and though fully aware of the danger of shooting these rapids, thoroughly enjoyed the sensation. On our way down the river we passed under the Victoria Bridge, and a fe-w minutes later were hurrying to the Windsor for dinner. After this meal Charley and I had to perform a little business, he looking after the baggage while I paid the bill. At the station an American gentleman, a doctor of New York, and his wife, who was very good-looking, saw us off; Dr. Morrell M'Kenzie, of London, accompanied us some distance in the car. We walked through the Pullmans and saw all the arrangements for sleeping, and people going to bed in them in the most ordinary way in the world, A little after ten the train started, and for an hour or so we sat up talking. Our sleeping arrangements were as follows : Mr, and Mrs. Abbott in one bedroom, and Ethel in the other; Mr. Fowler, Charley, and myself being distributed on the couches in the saloons. Just before going to roost I lost my straw hat— or rather had it lost for me — with the artistic ally fashioned black bow attached. THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, 27 August 30, Wednesday. At 2 a,m, I was just conscious of the fact that we were being shunted on to a siding at Prescott junction, after being detached from the train which was going on to Toronto and Chicago. At seven o'clock, when I finally rolled off my couch, it was a beautiful morn ing, and the party were soon astir. Our siding was close to the station platform alongside a goods wharf. It was a novel experience to walk out of one's bedroom in the morning on to a railway track, among cars and all sorts of freight. Our breakfast in the car was another novelty. We had corned beef, canned chicken, bread, butter, tea, and apples ; all prepared and laid out by Gideon, who certainly provides us with every comfort, and appears to think further ahead than most people. It would have been a sight for any one at home to have seen, and remembered. We left the car to be forwarded on to Kingston, while we walked down to the river to go on by water. Prescott is a fairish-size town, with nothing par ticular except its grass- grown roads. At the wharf we had to wait for the steamer, and in the interval Charley and I had a swim in the river. The water was splendidly clear and cool, and we thoroughly enjoyed our bath. The boat was called the Algerian, and after the usual fashion of river boats here, was two-storied, painted white, very clean inside, and 28 DIARY, had a huge saloon running her whole length. The river St. Lawrence between Prescott and Ogdensberg — the first town in the States we have seen — is two miles wide, and we are 1200 miles from its mouth. One can hardly appreciate the immensity of dis tances here ; for instance, the province of Quebec only, is as large as the whole of the British islands put together, and Canada proper as large as the whole continent of Europe. It is thought nothing to travel two or three days to a place, and towns a day's run from each other are considered quite near. After passing Brockville, we entered the Lake of the Thousand Islands. The latter are of all shapes and sizes ; some are high, some low, others a mile or more in length, others a mere rock jutting out of the water. It is perhaps this diversity that gives the charm to this most beautiful lake. While some are dreary, barren rocks, there are others clothed with the most luxuriant foliage, with the trees and grasses growing down to the water's edge. Groups of them were clustered together with miniature coves and bays, and little white cottages, with here and there a cow cooling herself in the stream. Numbers had tents on them, and it is the custom to camp out in the summer, and go in for boating and fishing. There are in all 1900, and they extend for more than ten miles. At Alexandria Bay, the fashionable head quarters on the lake, there are some large hotels, and FARM LANDS, 29 near are islands with villas built on a more costly scale, among them being Mr, Pullman's, of Palace Car fame. Our boat reached Kingston at 4,30. It is a fortified place with a military college. After a two- mile drive, we again reached the car. On starting there was a steep curve, up which an extra engine had to push behind ; this once surmounted, we went along at a fair rate. A dining-car was attached to our train, with little tables to seat four on each side. On board there was a kitchen, with three cooks, five waiters, one scullery man, and a superintendent. We took dinner, or " supper," as the menu called it, at seven o'clock, and were well served and very well pleased. From Kingston to Toronto we passed through farm lands. Land can be bought there from £5 to £40 per acre, all cleared and with farm buildings erected on them. When the old colonists or pioneers have completed the period of settlement necessary to obtain absolute possession of their lands, they take the first opportunity of making a good price for them, aud move westward to lands recently opened up, which they obtain at almost nominal sums. The country was undulating, with numerous streams, woods, and small lakes. We were told it was most fertile, and the soil, unexhausted, produces enormous crops without manure. For a sum of money often exceeded in England by the mere annual rent, a tenant 80 DIARY. farmer could become the absolute owner of a farm in Ontario, and for ever free himself from the vagaries of tenure and its attendant evils. This too is in the more thickly settled portions of the Dominion, where most of the necessaries of life and education are cheap, where the climate is healthy, and where the people are all of English extrac tion. As rooms had been telegraphed for at the Queen's Hotel, we had no difficulty, and got to bed very tired at one o'clock in the morning. Queen's Hotel, Toronto, August 31. Thursday, This is a very comfortable hotel ; more so than the Windsor, Montreal, but not so large. The service is excellent, and quite a treat after the latter house. The waiters are all blacks, and very goodnatured- looking fellows. They are dressed in black coats and white waistcoats, and are very smart. On entering the dining-room one of them always meets you, and, with a most polite bow and smile, immediately re lieves you of your hat and stick. Mr. Fowler left us after breakfast to meet his wife at Niagara, He has been our guide, comforter, and friend since we landed, and if we were not going to meet him again to-morrow his loss would be irreparable. TORONTO, 81 Toronto is situated on the north-west corner of Lake Ontario ; we came along its shores last night in the moonlight. This lake, it may be mentioned, is one of the great chain of fresh-water lakes which drain this enormous continent. It is 140 miles long by 60 wide, so there is no seeing across it. The city stretches along the shore for three or four miles, and two miles inland. It is laid out in blocks, with well- built houses, but has the same fault that we ob served in Montreal — a want of smartness, and a general appearance of neglect. King Street and Yonge Street, both with trams down the centre, are the best. Some of the shops are good, but, except in the way of Lacrosse bats and fur caps, I did not see any novelty. In the afternoon we took the ferry over to Hanlan's Island. At this place there is a large restaurant, with bowliug alleys and shooting galleries, the whole place having a Margate-and-Eamsgate-Hall- by-the-sea flavour about it. There were numbers of children paddling with their nurses, and others sit ting about on the dirty grey-coloured sand ; but the interest attached to the place is that it is Edward Hanlan's home, the famous oarsman, who is now champion sculler of the world. His name is here spelt with an a, and not as in England with an o in the final syllable. Just before we were leaving he came to the front of the hotel — of which, by the way, he is the proprietor — and we were introduced to him 32 DIARY, by the gentleman who was with us. This looked like a case of "a celebrity at home," but our interview of some five minutes' duration took place outside in the verandah. He said he liked our "little Eiver Thames," as there were so many walks about Putney, such as Wimbledon Common and Eichmond Park, useful for training, and the river was generally smooth for rowing. Our "Ijttle river," however, contrasts favourably with his native lake, which is frequently too rough to row on, and is frozen over for months together in the year,-. The. walks on his island, too, are not very extensile, . He took us to his prize stand, where there ai-e some dozens of trophies dis played from all quarters of the globe ; among them the champion cup, won on the Tyne in 1880, He is a strong, thickset man, rather good-looking, and very much like his photograph. Before dinner Charley and I took a tram to the Queen's Park. It is pretty, but, like everything else, wants some neatness and more care to make it perfect. The best building there is the University of Toronto, a large Gothic building of grey stone. The statue of Britannia, to the memory of the Canadians who fell in repelling the Fenian invasion of 1866, is also very effective : around it is a peculiar railing, with piled arms and swords at intervals. Near to the hotel was a travelling Zoo, which Charley and I visited after dinner. It was a poor show, but the fun of the fair was a tribe of NIAGARA. 33 pseudo-Indians. These gentlemen probably belonged to any other nation than the noble redskin from the prairie, painted and bedecked with feathers as they were. They contrived, however, to send some fifty people into fits of laughter by a series of howls and jumps, which were supposed to represent a war-dance and a pow-wow. As we had to pack again we went to bed early, having previously applied an internal lotion of sherry cobbler. September 1. Friday. We arrived at Niagara this morning at 1.15 from Toronto, via Hamilton. The scenery airound the latter place is very homelike and picturesque. At the station we visited an ice-house, where some 20,000 tons of ice are annually stored. It was then about half full, so we were able to go inside the empty portion. The interior was like a barn, and divided into four parts. The ice is simply stowed away there in the winter, the top of it being covered with straw. At the station to meet us were Mr. and Mrs, Fowler ; the whole party immediately drove off to the Clifton house, on the Canadian side. On our way, the Eiver Niagara was 150 feet below us, in a huge channel hewn by itself in the solid rock, on our left : we could just see the dark green water over the pre cipice. After passing a toll-house, we saw, some 84 DIARY. distance ahead, the spray clouds, -ft-hich rise from the foot of each Fall. They looked like steam. Whed we were opposite the Clifton we had a full view of both of these stupendous wonders of the world, and were anything but disappointed, as some said we should be, with our first view of the Falls. The Falls of Niagara, on the river of the same name, are twenty-two miles from Lake Erie, and fourteen from Ontario. Over them the drainage of half this enormous continent, from Lakes Erie, Michigan^ and Superior, has to pass on its way to the sea, through Lake Ontario and the Eiver St. Lawrence. Just before the river takes its leap over the Falls it is divided by Goat Island, and makes almost a right-angled bend. On either side of this island the river rushes and tumbles, descending fifty-two feet in one mile through the Eapids, which continue until the final plunge is made. From the hotel the American Fall is directly opposite, being 1,100 feet wide and 168 feet deep. Further up on the other side of Goat Island, and to the right, is the large Canadian, or Horse- shoe Fall ; this is over 2,000 feet wide, and descends 156 feet. Of course your impression is that the whole thing is most magnificently grand, and that it defies descrip tion. A few facts, however, may be interesting. Sir NIAGARA, 35 Charles Lyell estimates that the ravine through which the river flows after leaping the Falls took 30,000 years to be excavated. It has been calculated that 100,000,000 tons of water pass over the Falls every hour. Some years ago a condemned vessel was sent over the Horse-shoe Fall, and though she drew twenty feet of water she did not even touch the rocks as she went over the edge. Before dinner, which is ready here at 2.30, we strolled along to the Prospect House, and from there viewed the Falls. It is impossible, of course, to see where the Falls strike the water below, the spray rising in thick clouds half-way up the precipice, with a thinner veil many feet above. Before leaving the Prospect we were shown the Princess Louise's rooms ; they were very comfortable and neat ; she was expected on the morrow. We passed the Museum and numerous photo and knick-knack shops, and were pestered at every step to purchase " this cheap view," or " those pretty moccasins," till we again set foot in the hotel. In the afternoon we drove to the Whirlpool Eapids, and descended to the river's edge in the elevator. The Niagara, after leaping the Falls, plunges down a narrow gorge, which some two miles below reaches its narrowest point ; here the under-current makes itself felt, and coming to the surface forms these famous Eapids. The river bounds along at a furious rate, roaring and throwing up waves and billows, like 36 DIARY. some mighty ocean lashed into fury by a storm. The noise is terrific. Passing over the Eailway Suspension Bridge, with the railroad track above, we drove along the American side to Prospect Park. Here, after descending the elevator, Charley and I changed everything we had on for a pair of rough flannel pants, vest, mackintosh cap, and felt shoes; and escorted, or rather led, by a guide, started to pass behind the wave of the American Pall. Immediately we left the dressing-room we found ourselves on the rocks beside the Fall, almost blinded by the spray, and hardly able to look up at it : we were drenched through and through in no time, but the water being warm we felt no inconvenience from this. We ascended a ladder on to a huge rock, and beheld the wonderful rainbow reflected on the spray. It was a beautiful little miniature, and a perfect circle. Led by our guide along some planks at the side of the rock, with a frail wooden rail to hold on by, and blinded with a whirlwind of spray, and almost borne down with the weight of water driven against us, we at length found ourselves beneath a ledge of rock with the Fall thundering down immediately in front. The noise was awful, and the eddies below boiled and washed up at our feet. It is only here that one could appreciate the magnitude of the volume of water rolling over the precipice above. NIAGARA. 37 and it is a sight well worth travelling across the world to see. The thrilling sensation experienced on this trip is one never to be effaced from the memory. On returning to our dressing-room we were photo graphed, there and then as we stood. While we were viewing the leap of the water over the ledge from the Park, an acrobat was performing on some trapezes and a tight rope suspended from the New Suspension Bridge ; we watched him for some time until he dived down a rope head first, 200 feet long, into the river below, where he swam about until picked up by a boat. It was a plucky feat, and he was well applauded by numbers of people who were watching him. We now continued our drive across the river to Goat Island, where we walked over the bridge to the Terrapin Eocks, on the edge of the Canadian Fall, and there stood immediately over the brink of the abyss into which the river falls. The river rushes past you, and your eye is only able to follow it to where it meets the great spray cloud, which rises from below. The roar of the water, and the situ ation, makes this one of the most impressive places from which to view the Falls. Proceeding round the island, we saw the river where it stretches across some two miles wide, before it reaches the rapids. It looks quite peaceful, and gives one no suspicion of the fury into which it is 38 . DIARY. lashed a little way below. Eeturning over the New Suspension Bridge we at length reached the hotel after a most wonderful drive. For a party of five the cost was $27, or £5 8s. At every point one is tolled, besides having to suffer the importunities of the fancy shopkeepers and the irrepressible photo graphers. As I write, the steady roar, not a harsh grating one, but a mellow continuous sound of the marching onward of many waters, strikes the ear. It can be heard for many— they say twenty — miles, and so soft that an ordinary conversation can be carried on without raising the pitch of one's voice -when quite close to the Falls. September 2. Saturday. After breakfast we took a last view at the Falls and drove to the station. In an hour we arrived at Buffalo, crossing on our way the magnificent sus pension bridge over the Niagara river. The view from this, extending on the one side over the Whirlpool Eapids, and on the other to the Falls, was most sublime ; but one shuddered to think what would have happened had the frail-looking bridge snapped, and one had been precipitated 245 feet into the river below. Buffalo is a large American city at the end of Lake Erie, and is the entrepot of all the grain traffic from the west. From what we saw, it did not look very inviting, but some of its suburbs are very LUNCH ON THE CAR. 39 fine I hear. We had to cross the Niagara again, and this time over the International bridge — a huge structure, on the open girder tubular sort of system. It is about 2,000 feet long, and cost $1,500,000. It belongs to the Grand Trunk Eailway. Our lunch to-day, which Gideon prepared, was a most sump tuous affair — chicken, tongue, pressed ham, and bottled Bass. We all enjoy these feeds in the car ; and as we are now seven, or rather more, in our eating capacity, it must be no slight task for Gideon to keep his stores up to what is practically an unlimited call. The scenery we passed through was chiefly agricultural and woody, with very few hills, and here and there a river. We passed Paris, a pretty Norwegian-looking town, and Stratford, which had a more substantial English appearance. At 7.80 our train drew up at Point Edward. We were immediately shown to our rooms above the depot. They are very comfortable, and belong to the Grand Trunk Eailway, being usually occupied by the officials when round on an inspection. Mr. Hickson, who is very pleasant indeed, received us in the dining-room, where we all had a " real nice " dinner, -with several officials of the line. Point Edward is on the St. Clair Eiver at the point where it leaves Lake Huron for Lake Erie ; Fort Gratiot on the American side is opposite. There is nothing but the depot, the town of Sarnia being 40 DIARY. two miles lower down the river. Some of the accessories to the meals here, and everywhere we have been, strike us as very homelike. They are the large quantities of European drinks and condi ments consumed with them. Bass's ale, Guinness's stout, Apollinaris water, and Crosse and Blackwell's pickles are articles of every day consumption, and seem to be well appreciated. This certainly speaks well for the enterprising agents of these firms, and it is a wonder that AUsopps' ale and Huntley and Palmer's biscuits are not seen too. Although the heat to-day has been about 90° in the shade, and in the sun somewhere near 100°, we did not find it too oppressive, the thermometer since landing never having been much below 80°, except at night, when it registers about 60°. September 3. Sunday. This morning after breakfast Mr. Abbott, Charley, and myself, with Mr, Hickson and Mr, Spicer to show us the way, strolled along the railway wharves to the grain elevator and the steam ferry. The elevator is a huge wooden building of great capacity. Outside, fronting the river, is a huge beam called the leg. This contains inside it small buckets on an endless chain, and is dipped into the car or vessel required to be unloaded. The buckets bring the grain up to the proper elevation, where there are POINT EDWAED. 41 funnels to shoot it into other cars, or to distribute it over the floors of the elevator. Further on we found the steam ferry. This is a huge flat-bottomed screw propeller. She has four lines of rails on board, and carries across the river twenty-one cars at a time loaded with passengers or freight. On our return to the depot we went on board the steam tug Beatrice for a run down the river. We passed between Sarnia on the Canadian side and Port Huron on the American. They are both thriving ports, but have no other particular attraction. Below Sarnia is an Indian reservation, stretching for some miles along the bank of the river. We steamed close inshore, and saw several real live redskins. They were all dressed in European costume. The only novelty we saw was a woman who carried a papoose on her back. The suite of apartments we occupy belong to the officials of the line. They consist of half a dozen bedrooms and a very fair-sized dining-room. Along the river front there is a verandah, where the whole party adjourn after meals. Our number is one dozen all told, consisting of Mr. Hickson, general manager of the line ; Mr. Spicer, superintendent ; Mr. Yates, chief engineer ; Mr. Wallace, locomotive superinten dent ; Mr. Taylor, and another official ; and our party of seven. We are a very merry family, though a great deal of "shop" is talked about the line, all the officials 42 DIARY. being thoroughly Grand Trunk. After dinner we walked over to the church to escort the ladies, who had left us immediately the meal was over, home again. The church is very small, and is presided over by a coloured clergyman. He is, however, a good preacher, well educated, and speaks like an ordinary Englishman, September 4, Monday. This morning some of us had a swim offthe wharf ; it was rather dirty, and we had to be careful of the currents. After breakfast, Gideon obtained a row boat, with a man who knew the deadly currents, at least almost deadly to any proposals we made for going on the river, and at eleven o'clock we launched on what everybody considered a most perilous voyage. The stream was very strong, and it took us at least forty minutes to row half a mile ; at one point it runs over ten miles an hour. We went as far as the lake, which we reached by beaching the boat and walking across a spit of land. Here there is a cattle quarantine for animals sent into Canada from the States. They are kept in very comfortable quarters for ninety days, and are generally very valuable animals. The man who was in charge came from Newcastle, and turned on his full conversational powers when he knew that we came from the old POINT EDWAED. 43 country. In the afternoon we indulged in some fishing, with a primitive rod and line, off the wharf. We were at first unlucky, but at length we succeeded in catching eight fish, four apiece. They were pickerel and perch, and very fair size. The rest of the party visited Port Huron and Sarnia, which they said were totally uninteresting, though they are considered quite large cities here. After dinner everybody retired, all trunks having to be ready by 10 p.m., as we start for Chicago early to-morrow morning. Our rest is rather broken here by mosquitos and the incessant clang of locomotive bells. The latter are as large as small English Church bells, but more melodious. They are placed just behind the smoke stack, and whenever an engine enters or leaves a station they are set going. As our room overlooks the depot, and most of the freight traffic is worked through here at night, we are rung up more often than we would wish. The mosquitos add to the trouble by their continually whirring round our heads all night, and an occasional bite here and there. To-night I am going to try some Keating's powder, and hope it will have a salutary effect. September 5. Tuesday. At 8 a.m. we left Point Edward for Chicago, where we arrived at 8 p.m., and put up at the Grand Pacific 44 DIARY. Hotel. On our way the country in some parts was quite English. Near here we came into the prairie, and could see for miles around us. The superinten dent of this portion of the line accompanied us from Point Edward, and after dinner at Battlecreek his wife joined the party. The supper this evening has been the best square meal we have taken so far. September 6. Wednesday. This morning Charley and I had to breakfast alone, the rest of the party were rather early a'nd had already breakfasted when we came down. At 11.30 we all moved out to the Board of Trade building, and went over the Corn Exchange. We ascended in a huge elevator to the first floor, and were imme diately launched into a large hall, containing some hundreds of men who were all bawling at the top of their voices, and creating a perfect Babel. Our ad vent with two ladies and our further progress through the hall caused some sensation, and we were well stared at. In the centre -was the wheat ring, a large circle of three or four stairs, around and on which more noise than ever arose, while at either end were two smaller rings for other grain. The telegraph office stood in a corner at the further end of the hall, and was besieged ; and around the room were posted PULLMAN CITY. 45 telegrams from other markets, and also the state of the weather in different corn-growing countries. I re member that Liverpool was " very heavy," and that England was " fine after rain." From the Board of Trade we walked to the Grand Trunk office, still stared at by a large crowd ; who, as the Princess Louise was staying at the Palmer House, must have thought that we were in some way connected with that august lady. At two o'clock we started off to the depot, escorted by Mr. Pullman's agent, and there we met Mr. Pullman himself. He is a tall gentleman with grey hair and an American Vandyke beard. According to the usual hospitality of the country, Mr. Pull man's private car was awaiting our arrival, and Mr. Pullman was to take us to his city, some ten miles distant. This car is a most splendid affair, combining elegance with comfort and ease. En tering it at one end, we found ourselves in a small smoking-room, with leather couches and armchairs. From this we proceeded along a passage, off which were a ladies' boudoir and bedroom, in satin wood and red velvet ; beyond these we came to the main saloon. The chairs had their dust-proof holland covers on, so we did not see what was the pervading colour ; but the wood-work was magnificent, not only ofthe furni ture, but of the sides and roof of the car, all kinds of rare woods being inlaid in different shapes and pat- 46 DIARY. terns. Besides a dining-table there was a writing table and a harmonium. The wonders of the car did not cease here, for behind the saloon were a kitchen, scullery, and lavatory, the whole of the domestic economy being attended to by a coloured man. Mr. Pullman enumerated to us a list of distinguished guests who had used the car, among them being the Princess Louise, the Duke of Manchester, Mr. Walter of the Times, and a host of others. On arriving at Pullman we first visited the brickyard, where the bricks are made out of the clay dredged from Lake Calumet, hard by, and which is thus to be made a large port for grain and cattle via Lake Michigan. After this we went through the shops where the world-famed Pullman cars are now constructed, and saw how everything about them is made, from the cushion-springs to the lamps and the painting and varnishing without. All the machinery in this small arsenal is driven by one large engine, the largest I have seen, and perhaps of its kind in the world. Its horse power is 2,500, and the circum ference of the wheel ninety feet. On leaving the shops we walked through the city, which is neatly laid out in boulevards, with shade trees. The houses are substantially built of red brick. There is an arcade with retail shops on each side, and a theatre all under the same roof. The latter is not quite finished, but it promises to be a most cha