RAMBLES IN
THE FAR WEST
HARRY ALEXANDER MACFADDEN

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

1938

HARRY ALEXANDER .MACFADDEN

RAMBLES IN THE
FAR WEST.

BY

HARRY ALEXANDER
MACFADDEN.

Published by the
STANDARD PRINTING HOUSE.
Hollidaysburg, Pennsylvania.

Copyright, 1906,
By Harry Alexander MacFadden.
All rights reserved,
305 n

FOREWORD,
The matter contained in the following pages descrip
tive of the tour made by the members of the National Edi
torial Association of the United States in the summer of
1905 through the Middle West, West, Southwest and
Pacific Coast of the United States, was originally publish
ed in the form of letters, by the author, in the Democratic
Standard, at Hollidaysburg, Pennsylvania.
Many of our friends of the Association, and others,
who were much interested, but were unable to read all the
letters, urged that they be collected and published in book
form, so that they might be more generally read and circu
lated — hence this book.
The general mass of our citizens have but vague and
indefinite ideas of the great resources, vast extent, unlimited
possibilities and golden opportunities of our great land
beyond the Missisippis River, If any of our readers shall
obtain any pleasure, satisfaction, profit and better knowledge
of the Greatest Republic on the face of the earth by the
perusal of these pages we will be well repaid for our labor.
Since these letters went into print the awful earthquake
disaster occurred at San Francisco; therefore the parts re
lating to that city and the illustrations thereof will have
peculiar interest and value.
We desire to acknowledge our appreciation of the
courtesies extended us, in the matter of securing illustra
tions, by the Southem Pacific, Denver and Rio Grande,
Rock Island, Santa Fe, Union Pacific and the Missouri,
Kansas and Texas Railroads, and the Oregon Railroad
and Navigation Company.
Harry Alexander MacFadden.
Hollidaysburg, Pa., July 10th, 1906.

CONTENTS. PAGE
Chapter I. The Beginning of the Journey 1
Chapter II, Guthrie, the Convention City 5
Chapter III. Oklahoma, the Land of the Fair God,
Its Beauties and Possibilities 1 1
Chapter IV, The Indian Pageant at the 101 Ranch 17
Chapter V. The Indian Territory, where the Noble
Redmen Royally Entertain the Paleface 23
Chapter VI. The Lone Star State, Texas a Mighty
Empire 27
Chapter VII. Dallas, Houston, Galveston, the
Commercial Centers 31
Chapter VIII. San Antonio, the Venice of Ameri
ca, the Alamo, the Missions 44
Chapter IX. The Rio Grande, the Plains of West
ern Texas, the Pecos River Bridge, El Paso,
Juarez, Mexico 54
Chapter X. The Deserts of New Mexico and Ari
zona, the Cacti 65
Chapter XI, The Plains and Valleys of California,
the Golden State, the Sea of Salt 73
Chapter XII. Riverside, the Home of the Orange,
the Magnolias gj^
Chapter XEI. Los Angeles, Pasadena, the Beauti
ful; Mount Lowe, the Alpine Tavern 86
Chapter XIV. Santa Catalina Island, the Marine
Gardens, the Leaping Tuna 95
Chapter XV, Los Angeles, the City of the Angels,
Its Power and Beauty jqi
Chapter XVL Santa Barbara, the Incomparable;
the Newport of the Pacific ' io9

PAGE
Chapter XVII. Del Monte, the Superbly Beauti
ful; Monterey, California's First Capital 115
Chapter XVIII. Santa Cruz, the Atlantic City of
the Sunset State ; the Sylvan Breakfast 'Neath
the "Big Trees" 121
Chapter XIX. The Nile-like Valleys, Stanford Un
iversity, Santa Clara Missions, San Jose 133
Chapter XX. San Francisco, the Queen of the
Golden Gate 141
Chapter XXI. Chinatown, the Barbaric, Mystic
and Wondrous 155
Chapter XXII, Oakland, Mount Tamalpais, the
Crookedest Railroad in the World 163
Chapter XXIII, The Straits of Carnequinez, tha
Largest Ferry Boat in the World, Sacramento
the Capital 170
Chapter XXIV. Dunsmuir, the Lady Barbers, tha
Lordly Mt. Shasta, Mt, Shasta Springs 176
Chaper XXV. Our First Glimpse of Oregon ; Med
ford, Salem 183
Chaper XXVI. Portland, the Rose City ; the Lew
is and Clark Exposition, Sacajawea, the Indian
Princess 187
Chapter XXVII, The La Grande Valley, Hot
Lake, Baker City, Boy Hunter Throws Gold at
Deer 202
Chapter XXVIII, Idaho, the Snake River Canyon,
the Bear River Irrigation 214
Chapter XXIX. Utah, the Mormon State, Its Ex
ploration and History 217
Chapter XXX. Salt Lake City, the Great Salt
Lake, the Tabernacle, the Temple the Mormons 221

PAGE
Chapter XXXI. On the way to Colorado, Glen
wood Springs the Wonderful, the Mineral Springs
and Vapor Caves 230
Chapter XXXII, The Canyon of the Grand, the
Mount of the Holy Cross, the Royal Gorge 234
Chapter XXXIII. Pueblo, the Pittsburg of the
West 243
Chapter XXXIV. Colorado Springs, the Scenic
Spot of America ; Pike's Peak, the Sublime ; Man
itou, the Picturesque 247
Chapter XXXV. The Garden of the Gods, the
Enchanted Indian Temple of the Great Spirit
Manitou 257
Chapter XXXVI, South Cheyenne Canyon, the
Spot of Poetic Beauty and Romance 262
Chapter XXXVII, Denver, the City of Sunshine,
The Parting of the Ways 271

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS, PAGE
Portrait of the Author Frontispiece
Union Depot, St. Louis 1
Masonic Temple, Guthrie, Oklahoma 6
Street Scene, Guthrie, Oklahoma 8
View of Oil Town of Cleveland, Oklahoma 14
Pets of La Sandia Ranch, Texas 2^
Herd of Texan Fat Steers 27
Mexican Sheep Shearers at Dinner on a Texan Ranch 28
Typical Residences, Houston, Texas 32
Harbor and Shipping, Galveston, Texas 34
First Presbyterian Church, Houston, Texas 35
Sea Wall and Bathing PaviHon, Galveston, Texas 36
Mexican Bull Fight 60
Tournament of Roses, Pasadena, California , 86
Hotel Raymond, Pasadena, California 88
Bathing Hour at Avalon, Santa Catalina Island 95
Handsome Catch of Albicore, Santa Catalina Island 96
Tropical Park, Santa Catalina Island 98
Rose Embowered Seminary, Los Angeles 101
Typical Residence, Los Angeles 102
Oil Wells in the Pacific Ocean, California 108
Hotel Potter and Santa Barbara Bay 109
General View of Santa Cruz, Cahfornia 121
One Day's Catch of King Salmon, Santa Cruz 123
Big Tree Grove, Santa Cruz 124
The Wave Cave Santa Cruz 126
Some Flower Embowered Homes, San Jose 133
View of Santa Clara Valley, California 135
Saint Claire Club House, San Jose 137
Alum Rock Park, San Jose 138

PAGE
Sunset at the Golden Gate, San Francisco 141
Dolores Mission, San Francisco 142
Japanese Tea Garden, Golden Gate Park 144
Itahan Quarter, San Francisco 146
Oriental Street Venders, San Francisco 148
Strange Craft of All Nations, San Francisco 150
Sentinel of the Tong, Chinatown 152
Seals on Seal Rock, San Francisco 154
Mexican Quarter, San Francisco 157
Street of Residences, Chinatown 159
Capitol Building and Park, Sacramento 170
County Court House and Sutters Fort, Sacramento 174
Snow Crowned Mount Shasta 180
Street Scene, Baker City, Oregon 202
Multnomah Falls, Oregon 213
Valley of the Grand River, Colorado 230
Hotel Colorado, Glenwood Springs 230
Wampah Spring, Glenwood Springs 232
Mammoth Swimming Pool, Glenwood Springs 234
Mount of the Holy Cross, Colorado 239
The Currecanti Needle, Colorado 240
Cog Wheel Raihoad Ascending Pike's Peak 247

THE UNION DEPOT, ST, LOUIS

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
CHAPTER I.
THE BEGINNING OF THE JOURNEY,
THE National Editorial Association of the United
States, at its session last year at St. Louis, Missouri,
made a wise decision when it accepted the invitation, so
generously extended, of the Press Association and Citizens'
Committee to hold its meeting of 1905 at the city of Guth
rie, Oklahoma Territory. The Executive Committee of the
Association fixed the dates of the 20th annual convention
for June 7th, Sth and 9th, 1905 There had been so much
disscussion in the press for several years about the vast
resources and possibilities of Oklahoma and Indian Ter
ritories, and the desires of these two territories for entry
into the Union as a single state, that all the editors were
anxious to go upon the ground and view the situation over
in person. The Pennsylvania editors being desirous of seeing new
things, through the courtesy and consideration of Mr. A. S,
Crane, General Passenger Agent, and Mr, F, H. Tristram,
Assistant General Passenger Agent of the Wabash Railway,
were enabled to view in the best style the wonders of en
gineering on that wonderful railroad from Pittsburg to St,
Loui;:., It cost the Wabash over $50,000,000 to build its
railroad into Pittsburg, and miles of solid rock had to be
1

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
cut through before the city could be reached. In the first
20 miles west out of that city are 18 tunnels, and in the
first 60 miles 62 bridges are crossed by that road.
The Wabash Railroad is one of the best constructed
and most ably and safely conducted railroads in the whole
country. Its equipment of cars and locomotives are of the
most modem style and first-class in all respects. The
management of the Wabash is wide-awake and progressive,
and that system is destined to soon become one of the most
powerful and complete organizations in the country. The
editors thoroughh.^ enjoyed their trip over the Wabash from
Pittsburg to St. Louis.
The editors from Maine to Florida, and from the Mid
dle West and all other parts of our great country, with their
wives, daughters and sweethearts, made their rendezvous at
St. Louis on June 5th preparatory to making a wholesale
"msh" into the Territory. Through the kindness of the
Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railway Company, and the
especial and able supervision of Mr. George Morton, die
General Passenger Agent, and Mr. A, C, Miner, the Travel
ing Passenger Agent, the editors were provided two hand
some and perfecdy equipped special trains to transport all
the editors and their girls, old and young, to Guthrie, The
name of the railway which has been such a potent factor in
developing the Southwest, has become known to its friends
and the public generally as the "Katy," so that when the
scribes first heard that name they thought some little girl
was being discussed, instead of a full grown and powerful
railroad. The Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railway has
become one of the most popular highways for reaching
Texas, Old Mexico, Califomia and the Southwest from St.
2

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
Louis, and the equipment of cars and fast trains is first-class
in every respect.
The two special trains with their bui^den of brains, wit
and beauty left the Union Depot, St. Louis, at one o'clock
Tuesday aftemoon, June 6th, for Guthrie, arriving there
shortly after noon the following day. The majority of the
delegates had never been in the "Woolly West" before, and
from the time the special train left St. Louis the trip was
full of interest and surprises for them. They opened their
eyes in wonder when they saw the great and mighty "Father
of Waters" at St. Louis, the grand Mississippi River, with its
torrents sweeping to the sea. A short distance West of St.
Louis the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad crosses the
mighty Missouri River, which truly deserves its name,
"The Big Muddy River," for it was bank-full of the yellow
est, muddy, clayey water we have ever seen. The river,
it is said, carries acres and acres of land from the nortli
down south to enrich the fields lying along its course and
the course of the Mississippi, thus truly making one man's
loss another's gain.
The railroad followed the north bank of the Missouri
River unfolding to the eastern eyes a panorama of vast
level rich and fertile fields filled with com, wheat and po
tatoes — the Nation's food — such as we had never dreamed.
Yet when the shadows of evening began to fall and the
boundaries of Kansas were reached and passed tlie traveler
looked out upon a marvelous sight of wheat fields and corn
rows glistening in the rays of the setting sun — vast, big
beyond comprehension — apparently stretching in one un
broken line from horizon to horizon, having on its bosom
more than enough to have fed all of Pharoh's countless
3

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
armies. The rising of the next day's sun found the tourists
speeding through the rich and fertile fields of the Indian
Territory, which "blossomed as a rose," producing all kinds
of grains and fmits in the richest profusion. A few hours
later the party had passed into the borders of its bright and
beautiful sister, Oklahoma Territory, where the verdure of
the fields was of the brightest sempiternal green, and the
wheat, in all its golden glory, was waiting for the harvester
to shore its full and forceful grains to build up the bone and
sinew of the nation. The vast pastures of green and suc
culent grass were dotted with thousands of sleek, fat cat
tle, such as make the juicy and toothsome porterhouse
steaks, and none of Pharoh's lean and hungry kine were in
those herds. The cattle of both the Indian and Oklahoma
Territories are already famous for their sleekness and fine
beef. They are most sought for in the great cattle markets
of the west. The large herds of tiiese two territories are
continually augmented by fresh herds of yearlings and two-
year-olds, which are brought up from the plains of Texas; as
many as 100,000 a year, and fattened on the juicy grasses
of the valleys of these two territories, Oklahoma means
"The Land of the Fair God." Tmly it is a fair land.

CHAPTER n,
GUTHRIE — THE CONVENTION CITY,
AT the city of Guthrie the editors were given a surprise
of what westem hospitality means. Guthrie, tiie cap-
tal of what is destined to be one of the greatest and wealth
iest states of the West, is a city of 30,000 people, but did
not have sufficient hotel accommodations for the some 700
people in the editorial party, so the best citizens of the
city — the merchants, doctors, lawyers, bankers and preach
ers, with graceful and spontaneous generosity, opened their
homes and took the editors into the bosoms of their families
and entertained them most royally during the convention.
Many pleasant friendships were thus formed which will re
main through the rush of years to come.
The Guthrie people had laid their plans well for the en
tertainment of the editors, and every man, woman and child
entered with their whole souls into the work, and that city
of 30,000 provided and cared for all the wants of the edi
torial writers as well as a city of 100,000 people could have
done, and they were pardonably proud of the success of
their efforts.
The city of Guthrie is a wonderful place; a phenomo-
non of the West. The history of its birth reads like a page
from the Arabian Nights. Sixteen years ago the green
and beautiful hills on which the pretty, prosperous, pro
gressive and populous city now stands were entirely unin-
5

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CARNEGIE LIBRARY, GUTHRIE, OKLAHOMA
habited. Suddenly, as if Aladdin had breathed upon his
magic lamp, there was, on April 22d, 1889, a quick, start
ling and wonderful change, and the spot became, instantly,
a city of 20,000 souls — not the beautiful, well regulated
city of to-day— but a city of white tents and board shanties
of the first Oklahoma "boomers."
Those people— men, women and children, white and
black and red, Jew and Gentile, Protestant and Catholic,
non-believer and lover of all men, from all walks, classes
and conditions of life, came from all parts of our great
nation to build here a beautiful city and found a mighty
and imperishable State, They were full of force, power,
vim, vigor and virtue, and determined to build such I
city as should rank with the best in the land. These
6

> inO Z o H W t-' Qa !^ w

o '^ o

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
'boomers" succeeded fsr beyond their most sanguine ex
pectations, and to-day Guthrie, with Ler 30,000 popula
tion, stands forth a beautiful, large, important, up-to-date,
progressive city; a lasting monument to the perseverance
and pluck of her citizens, which excited the praise and ad
miration of us all. We prophesy for Guthrie a bright and
bailliant future, as the capital of the new State oi Oklahoma,
that soon is to be a bright star in our Nation's constellation.
Guthrie is beautifully located on the Cottonwood River
and has a perfect drainage 'system. The public buildings
are handsome and stately. They have a United States
Government building worth $150,000, a Masonic temple
worth $75,000, a Cit / Hall worth $50,000, a Carnegie li
brary wordi $50,000, a $150,000 gas plant, a $250,000
electric light plant, two telephone systems, fine business
blocks and 40 large manufacturing plants. They have a
perfect water system costing $150,000 and an excellent fire
department. The city has fine, well graded streets, and
miles of them. They have 60 miles of fine brick and ce
ment sidewalks. They have fine public and private shools,
having about $300,000 invested in their school properties.
An electric street railway of the most modem kind was
completed just in time to give our party a ride about the ¦
city. The city is full of handsome and commodious homes.
That the city is prosperous is shown by the fact that its
four banks have deposits aggregating the tidy sum of be
tween $2,000,000 and $3,000,000. The future of Guthrie
as the capital and a commercial metropolis is assured, for
the competition in all lines is already made possible by the
fact that eight railroads center in the city and anotlier lire
is building. The people are peaceful, orderly, intelligent
7

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
and have the religious affairs of the city well looked after
by 17 large churches of all denominations.
The sessions of the 20th Annual Convention of the
National Editorial Association were held in the Brooks
Opera House, a handsome and commodious play house
which would do credit to a much larger city. In the ab
sence of Govemor Ferguson, on account of his wife's ill
ness, Delegate Bird S. McGuire extended a hearty welcome
on the part of Oklahoma Territory to the delegates, Guth
rie's welcome address to the Associadon was eloquently
voiced by Mayor John W. Duke, while later, but warm
and friendly, came the greeting of Senator O. R. Fegan.
To these generous warm words of welcome President W.
W. Screws, of the Nadonal Editorial Association, made a
happy and eloquent reply, voicing the appreciation, pleasure
and satisfaction of each and every member of the noble
array of writers at being in Guthrie, and at everything being
done for their comfort and pleasure. After the convention
was duly opened the meetings moved along like well-oiled
machinery. A large amount of preliminary business and
routine was speedily put through. The election of ofificers
for 1905-06 was a harmonious affair, and in a few minutes
the following officers were elected:
President, Hon. John Dymond, New Orleans; First
Vice President, John E. Junkin, Sterling, Kansas; Second
Vice President, H. B. Vamer, Lexington, N. C; Third
Vice President, Leslie G. Niblack, Guthrie; Recording Sec
retary, J. W. Cockmm, Indiana; Corresponding Secretary,
William A. Ashbrook, Johnstown, Ohio; Treasurer, Colonel
J. Irvin Steel, Ashland, Pa,
Before finishing up the business of the convention the
8

STREET SCENE, GUTHRIE, OKLAHOMA.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
Association passed strong resolutions calling upon Congress
to admit Oklahoma and Indian Territories as one joint
state into the fold of these great United States of America.
It was the unanimous opinion of the delegates that the last
Congress had badly treated our westem brethren, and that
they were entitled to admission in all respects; that they
have a class people who would make the best of citizens, as
over two-thirds are American bom. The Association by a
unanimous vote selected the city of Indianapolis as the
place of the 1906 convention, the invitation thereto having
been extended by Govemor J. Frank Hanly, Mayor John
W. Holtzman and Alfred F. Potts, President of the Indian
apolis Commercial Club. The convention after passing
heartfelt resolutions thanking the people of Guthrie and
every one who had aught to do with the pleasure of their
visit, rose in a body, sang that grand old anthem, America,
and stood adjourned.
The people of Guthrie surely did extend the glad hand
and joyful smile to the fighters of the pen. They made the
editors' first night in the city memorable by one of the most
elegant and enjoyable receptions and dances they had ever
attended. The dance was given in the city hall, which was
most elaborately decorated. The gowns of the lady patron
esses were most elaborate, and the costumes of the young
lady debutantees were most beautiful and bewitching. The
boys were so pleased and captivated by the fair ones, that
they one and all voted the dance up to the standard of the
efete East, and a great credit to the "Wild and Woolly
West." Even the flower bedecked booth was present, with
the pretty and bewitching maidens serving brilliant red
punch to the thirsty lads. Aftemoon teas and lawn fetes
9

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
were given especially for the pleasure of the editorial ladies,
who were loud in their appreciation of the style and gener
osity with which they were treated by their Westem sisters.
The Masonic fraternity is very strong, and has much
wealth among its members in Guthrie, The Scottish Rite
Masons have one of the finest temples of that order in the
United States, it having been erected a few years ago at a
cost of $75,000. The Masons, without regard to creed or
style, on the evening of June, 8th tendered a reception at
their temple to the entire National Editorial Association.
The evening was one long to be remembered, every feature
being a decided success. The address of welcome was a
beautiful and masterful effort, and was delivered by the
Grand Potentate of Oklahoma Territory, Harper S, Cun
ningham, The responses were made for the Association
by President W. W. Screws, of Montgomery, Alabama,
and Joseph B. McCabe, of Boston, The reception was
closed with a musicale, which would have done credit to
musical Boston, in which the ladies of Guthrie sang with
great culture and expression, selections from the Italian,
French and German masters. When not engaged in the
convention the delegates and their ladies were treated to
one round of pleasure by the Guthrieites, and the day to
leave brought much regret both to the editors and to the
citizens at parting. The work of the convention being
finished, the people of the twin Territories planned a grand
tour for their editorial guests to show all the beauties
resources and possibilities of those lands.

10

CHAPTER in,
OKLAHOMA — THE LAND OF THE FAIR GOD — ITS
BEAUTIES AND POSSIBILITIES,
ON Friday night, June 9th, the sleepy editors were
hustled into their special trains and started on their
swing around the circle, to see and be seen, feted, wined
and dined. Enid, Oklahoma, came first on the list of stops,
and it seemed that every one of its 5,000 people had tumed
out to do the editors homage. Here a big reception was
held in the opera house, which was followed a short time
after by a banquet in the rooms of the local lodge of Elks,
who are famed for their eating and social qualities. A
short time after leaving Guthrie a sad event happened
which caused a feeling of sorrow and sympathy to touch the
hearts of all the editors. Mr. G. T. Wright, an aged edi
tor from Hinsdale, Illinois, who was accompanied by his
wife and daughter, was suddenly, while talking with a friend
on the car "Bolton," stricken with appolexy, and expired in
a few minutes. The body was taken from the train at Enid,
and as it was removed the entire editorial party to the num
ber of 700 stood outside the train and sang that grand old
hymn of Cardinal Newman:
Lead, kindly light! amid th' encirling gloom,
Lead Thou me on;
The night is dark, and I am far from home.
Lead Thou me on; 11

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
Keep Thou my feet; I do not ask to see
The distant scene; one step enough for me,
I was not ever thus, nor pray'd that Thou
Shouldst lead me on;
I loved to choose and see my path, but now
Lead Thou me on;
I loved the garish day, and spite of fears.
Pride mled my will.
Remember not past years.
So long Thy pow'r has bless'd me, sure it still
Will lead me on
O'er moor and fen, o'er crag and torrent, till
The night is gone;
And with the mom those angel faces smile,
Which I have loved long since, and lost awhile.
That large band of sympathetic mourners, thus feel
ingly intoning that beautiful hymn made a grand and truly.
impressive sight, and one long to be remembered. Mr.
James H. Potts, editor of The Times, Troy, N. Y., who was
the poet of the party, was a passenger on the car "Bolton,"
in which Mr, Wright died, and being much impressed by
the unfortunate death, composed the following beautiful
poem in commemoration of the sad event:
"THE LEADING LIGHT."
Did ever brighter sunset glow
Than on that Oklahoma day?
Shining on those too stunned to pray,
Like promise of the rain cloud's bow.
Passing from out gloom's darkening fold,
This richly burdened ship of life.
Whose masts spoke victory over strife,
Was entering the gate of gold.
12

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
"Lead, kindly hght!" The song of men
Arose in honest sympathy;
The beconing sky replied to me,
"The Sun that led shall lead again,"
The next day the editors passed through the beautiful
town of Snyder, which still showed the baleful effects of the
destructive cyclone which had visited that section a few
months before, sweeping a large portion of the town off the
face of the earth. The citizens, nothing daunted by the
windy visitor, were rapidly repairing the damage of the
storm. The trains reached the thriving and progressive
town of Lawton, Oklahoma, in time for breakfast. The
citizens of this town were bound to keep up the reputation
of hospitality which had been set at a high pace by Guth
rie, and the people met tiie trains with their carriages r.nd
drove the editors to their homes, served fine breaakfsts and
entertained them most handsomely. Lawton enjoys tiie
distinction of being a "govemment town," It was plotted
and laid out by tiie Engineer Corps of the United States
Army, and in consequence is a model town. The streets
are broad and straight, with plenty of open spaces and
parks, and the lots are large and well located. The United
States wisely used all the money obtained from the sale of
lots in fine public improvements, giving the town a system
of streets, water works, sewage system, school houses and
public buildings second to none in the Territory. And this
was all done without the citizens contributing one cent in
taxes for tiie erection of these works and improvements.
From Lawton the trains bearing the brains of the Na
tion soon passed over into the Indian Territory, where a
stop was made about noon at Chickasha, the chief town of
13

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

OVERHOLSER OPERA HOUSE, OKLAHOMA CITY.
the Chickasha Indian Nation. Thirteen years ago the
town site was a blossoming prairie, but to-day it is a bust
ling and progressive town of about 12,000 people, with
fine buildings and numerous successful manufacturing
plants. On the arrival of the trains the Indians and the
whites, with a big brass band, which for noise would outdo
our own Social Band, greeted their guests and marshalled
them into line up the street to a big pavilion where a boun
teous luncheon had been prepared. The viands were so
good and so inviting, and the editors feasted with such gus
to that it looked as if tiiey had just recovered from a Dr.
Tanner fasting feat. Some merry wag noticing how
able the editors were with the knife and fork dubbed
them the National Eating Association. The editors being
14

A bird's eye view of the oil town of CLEVELAND, OKLAHOMA.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

PRIVATE RESIDENCES, OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLAHOMA.
too full of good things for utterance, took no offense with
the liberty taken with the National Editorial Association.
Late that same aftemoon the party reached Oklahoma
City, Oklahoma Territory, the metropolitan city of the
Territory. The growth of this city has been so rapid that
one might well have faith in the ancient fables, and believe
that some genii had breathed on the "wonderful lamp" and
wished that a city be, and the wish was realized. For no
less than 16 years ago the city of Oklahoma was an un
broken grassy plain, a feeding ground for droves of buffalo
and herds of antelope pursued by the wily red men. But
to-day — lo! the change — there now stands die most flourish
ing, progressive city of that section, with a population ap
proximating 40,000 people, with public buildings of the
15

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
first class, wide asphalt paved streets, water works, sewers
gas and electric light, modem schools, 137 wholesale houses
and 65 large manufacturing plants, electric street railways
and nine steam railroads bringing the commerce of the
world to its doors. That city contributed $3,500 to enter
tain the editors and the entertaining was done most royally.
A reception committee of the representative citizens of
Oklahoma City met the editors at the railroad station and
escorted them to a beautiful park where a fine complemen
tary dinner was served. From the park the party adjoum
ed to the opera house where bright, happy and witty speeches
were made by the mayor and some of the prominent citi
zens, and a galaxy of the editorial brain and brawn respon
ded in the best style of after-dinner speeches. The follow
ing morning the editorial party found themselves back in
Guthrie in readiness for one of the greatest events of the trip.

16

CHAPTER IV.
THE INDIAN PAGEANT AT THE 101 RANCH,
THERE is located in Oklahoma Territory, near the town
of Bliss, what is conceded to be the greatest and largest
farm in the world. It is called and incorporated die "101
Ranch," and is owned, controlled and conducted by the
Miller Brothers — Joseph Miller, President, age 37; Zach T,
Miher, 25, Treasurer, and George L. Miller, 23, Secretary,
The ranch Was founded in 1871 by George Miller, a native
of Kentucky, father of the three Miller brothers, the present
owners. Some pertinent facts about this greatest farm in
existence may not be amiss. It contains 87,000 acres, or
540 homesteads, a homestead embracing 160 acres. It is
larger than some European principalities. It includes in
its limits parts of three counties, and has three flourishing
towns — Bliss, White Eagle and Red Rock. A railroad
runs its entire length and it is watered by two big rivers
and inumerable creeks. The Miller Brothers own in their
own right 10,000 acres and the other 77,000 acres are leas
ed from the Indians, embracing the Ponca Indian Reserva
tion, and nearly all of the Otoe and Missouri Tribes. The
ranch has its own telephone plant embracing 35 miles of
wire, and costing $50,000. There are 11,000 trees in the
apple orchard. The ranch fences cost $10,000. The op
erating expenses are $5,000 per month. The crops this
year will consist of 9,000 acres of wheat, 2,500 acres of
17

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
corn, 500 acres of oats, 500 acres of alfalfa and 12,000
acres of melons. The melons are shipped out by the car
loads, and are the finest grown in the west, the seed alone
is wortii $2.50 an ounce. The melon patch has a sign
which would tickle the average darkey almost to death. It
is, "$5 for any one who goes through this patch without
taking a melon," That sign goes, and any one crossing
the patch may eat and carry home all the melons he pleases.
This ranch has the largest buffalo herd in the world. Ten
thousand tons of hay are cut yearly. It requires 42 bind
ers to harvest the wheat, and five steam threshers to thresh.
Twenty mowing machines gather the hay. Five stearn
gang plows furrow the land, and 600 mules and 350 cow
ponies are used as beasts of burden. Five hundred men
are employed, and 15,000 head of cattle roam its fertile
pastures. The ranch is incorporated at $300,000, but no
dividends are declared, the profits being put back in the
improvement of the ranch.
The Miller ranch house is the most perfectly appointed
in the world, from the kitchen to the billiard room in the
attic, and many of the most distinguished men in the coun
try have enjoyed its hospitality. Any visitor who comes
to the ranch, whether invited or uninvited, is most heartily
welcomed, and treated with the most generous hospitality.
It is a practical lesson in big things to see that great ranch
and view its systematic workings, down even to the small
est details. The Miller Brothers learning that the National Edi
torial Association was coming to Guthrie in June to hold
its annual convention, determined to do their share in en
tertaining the visitors, and show them such sights impossi-
18

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
ble for them to see in the staid and sober east, and exhibit
to them in all its pristine glory westem life on the plains on
a big ranch — the Indian, cow boy and cow girl on their
native heath.
The Miller Brothers called their ranch 101 from the
fact that the branding iron used by their father, George
Miller, for years to mark his horses and cattle, was made up
of the figures 101. Having determined some months be
fore to entertain the editors, the Miller Brothers made the
most elaborate preparations for such an exhibition as their
eastern visitors never saw and will not likely see again.
Much time, labor and some $12,000 were spent in arrang
ing the greatest wild west show ever planned.
June Ilth dawned bright and clear, and the editors
and their friends numbering about 2,000 persons were soon
taken on their special trains to Bliss, the Miller 10 IRanch
station, where they found everything in readiness for their
reception, and they were conducted to a great tent out on
the prairie, where a real buffalo had been barbecued, and
here each one was served with a light lunch and buffalo
sandwiches. After the luncheon the editors were escorted
to the specially prepared arena, out on the wide prairie,
where they found an amphitheatre of such great and magnif
icent proportions as never had been seen by Greeks or Ro
mans, or by the great Americans before. There, out on
Nature's own tilting field, stretched an arena one and one-
fourth miles around, eight seats deep filled with humanity,
and in front of those seats were thousands of other people
standing, who had come to see the great show, such as
neither the great Bamum, nor the famous Buffalo Bill ever
dreamed of. 19

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
About 40 special trains, horses and carriages, "prairie
schooners" and all kinds of conveyances, from early morn
ing, had been pouring their loads of humanity out on the
prairie, until the time of opening the display, it was vari
ously estimated there were from 75,000 to 100,000 on the
grounds, gathered to see the passing pageant of the "Wild
and Woolly West." Yet the order of this great crowd was
simply marvelous. Although there were two companies of
United States Infantry on hand to keep order, it was not
found necessary to maJke a single arrest for a breach of the
peace. The managers of our county fairs might well take
lessons from the management of that show. No liquor is
sold anywhere in the Territories, There was not a single
gambling device on the grounds; not a single drop of liquor
was sold, nor was there single drunken man in all that vast
assemblage. Their conduct was most exemplary, and not
a single thing was done to offend the sensibilities of the
most fastidious person. There were gathered there the
ladies, doctors, lawyers, laymen, editors, priests, soldiers,
ranchmen, scouts, cowboys, farm hands, Indians, Mexicans
and all classes and conditions of humanity, yet all were jolly
and peaceful and on pleasure bent.
The show was participated in by soldiers, scouts,
rough riders, cowboys and Indians. Almost 300 cowboys
and 500 Indians took an active part in the pageant, which
might well be called the passing of the scout and the disso
lution of the tribal relations of the Indians, for by recent
Act of Congress the Indians of Oklahoma this year will be
allotted individual holdings of lands, instead of holding
lands by tribes, as heretofore.
The pageant opened at 1 o'clock with the grand pa-
20

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
ade illustrative of the progress of civilization. At the head
of the cavalcade rode the three Miller Brothers, seated on
milk white Arabian horses, then followed the Indian chiefs,
braves and squaws gaily bedecked in bright blankets, beads,
war paint and feathers. At their front came that Apache
chief, Old Geronimo, the most desperate and bloodthirsty
Indian living to-day. The old Apache is a United States
prisoner of war at Fort Sill, Indian Territory, By permis
sion of the Secretary of War he was allowed to attend the
celebration under a strong military guard. His appear
ance was greeted by cheers by many, and by jeers and
hoots from a few, yet the old villian rode his horse erect,
undisturbed and apparently unconscious of the commotion
he was creating. As he came along the ladies were no
ticed to creep a little closer to the protecting arms of their
escorts. Then came the ancient prairie-schooners, each
drawn by eight oxen; then the modem farm machinery and
a steam engine drawing 16 plows; then followed the auto
mobiles, while 12 bands were scattered through the parade
playing martial music. An emigrant train, such as crossed
the plains in advance of the days of railroads, drew up the
rear. In the procession also, on their gallant steeds, rode
four of the Mullhall family — father, mother, son and daugh
ter — said to be four of tiie most daring and accomplished
riders in the world.
Following the parade came the buffalo hunt, with wild
and fierce animals chased by the Indians, with all their sav
age and wild recklessness of the forest. After which the
Indians gave such an exhibition of games and war danc;s
as never before were witnessed by pale-faces — who lived to
tell the tale. The Mullhalls gave exhibitions of their truly
21

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
wooderful skill in all kinds of fancy horse-back riding. The
cowboys being on their mettie, showed their dexterity in
subdueing the wild, bucking bronco, and their ability in
throwing the lasso, every time bringing the steer to the
ground. The negro Sampson "Pickett" showed his prow
ess over a great steer by throwing him in a wrestling
match. "Pickett" also showed his strong jaws by suddenly
catching a big steer by the nose with his teeth and by a
great effort throwing it prostrate to the ground. After this
there were sham battles between the Indians, scouts and
cowboys, which put to shame any of the Buffalo Bill efforts
ever attempted in that line. One of the most realistic
events of the day was the attacking of the emigrant train
by the Indians and their subsequent buming of the wagons.
It all looked so devilish, real and wicked that many of the
spectators had trouble to convince themselves that it was
only a show. The people rose — the show, the greatest of
them all, was over — and such as shall never be seen again
under the same circumstances. Every one left the prairie
thanking the Miller Brothers, and praising them for the
magnitude of their exhibition, and the orderly and decent
manner in which everything was conducted. At the con
clusion of the 101 Ranch celebration the special trains re
tumed to Guthrie to permit the editors to make preparations
for continuing their tour, and the trains left that city about
midnight the same night.

22

CHAPTER V.
THE Indian territory— where the noble redmen
ROYALLY entertain THE PALE-FACE.
THE first stop, of any length, after leaving Guthrie was
made at Cleveland, Oklahoma. Here is one of the
largest and best oil producing districts in the West, and the
high oil derricks were seen on all sides, marring the beauty

of the country,
met at the sta
band, a commit
escorted to the
a fine complimen
Was served. La
of the place were
special delight of
did not "know,"
"shot." Oil was
July 2d, 1903,
are over 200 oil
and gas wells,
000,000 feet of
town looks much

SHOOTING THE OIL
WELL.

The editors were
tion by a brass
tee of citizens and
best hotel, where
tary breakfast
ter all the sights
seen, and for the
the editors, who
an oil well was
first found there
and to-day theie
producing wells
which flow ICO,-
gas daily. The
like a Pennsyl

vania oil town, and now has a population of about 4,000,
and as yet the Standard Oil Company octopus has not suc
ceeded in getting a foothold in the field.
From Cleveland the travelers hastened to Tulsa, In-

23

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
dian Territory, where the whites and Indians were waiting
to entertain them. The Tulsaites having heard of the
capacities of the editors, wisely had their feast prepared and
the tables spread before the editors arrived, so no time was
lost on the arrival of the trains in using their carriages to
convey their guests to a fine new hotel, where an excellent
banquet was served, and a fine orchestra played sweet
music while they ate. After the luncheon the carriages
were re-entered and all the sights of that hustling and
booming city were seen and admired.
From Tulsa the editors rode into Muskogee, the lar
gest town in the Indian Territory. This 13-year-old city
of the red-skins was a wonderful example of whirlwind-like
growth. Here, where a few years ago was not a single
wigwam, to-day dweh over 15,000 hustling and progressive
citizens. They have wide paved streets, fine water works,
electric light plants, trolley lines and fine public buildings.
The private homes of the people run anywhere from $1,000
to $60,000 in value, while a $250,000 fire proof hotel,
with all the modern conveniences — with a bath for each
room, and almost equals in accommodations the famous
Walton and also the Bellevue-Stratford, of Philadelphia, in
its appointments — is there to cater to the most exacting
traveler. And the strange part of the matter is that not a
single drop of liquor is sold in this large hotel; yet every
thing is of the best, and the proprietor is making money.
Who after this will say that a hotel cannot be mn without
a license to sell liquor?
The land in both the Indian and Oklahoma Territories
is so fertile that it will actually raise anything that is planted.
The subsoil is a yellow, sandy loam extending down 21
24

THE PETS OF LA SANDIA RANCH, TEXAS.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
feet to water, and there is a top dressing of five or six feet
of dark red loam, which simply bsats the world when it
comes to producing good results from the seed entmsted to
it. It is astonishing what abundant crops of wheat, com,
cotton, oats, potatoes and alfalfa ( hay ) those prairie fields
will raise. It is not an unusual thing for the farmers tliere
to raise from 125 to 200 bushels of potatoes to the acre,
and to annually clear from $40 to $50 per acre on alfalfa,
while the cotton yield runs from a bale (550 pounds) to a
to a bale and a half per acre. Apples, peaches, pears and
grapes are successfully and profitably cultivated, and all
crops of the temperate zone thrive there.
If it were not for the occasional drouths and cyclones
and "twisters" which make life occasionally miserable, there
would be no better place in the world for the farmer than
out in those tv/o Territories. The wise man there in pro
viding for safety against the cyclone, has dug himself an
underground cellar, and at the first sign of danger he and
his family flee to the "hole in the ground."
In the matter of population, wealth and development,
both of these Territories are well equipped and ready for
statehood, and they will get in. As, Hon. R. L. Lunsford
said: "We hold the winning hand, and will butt into the
Union," Four kings — com, coal, cotton and cattle, and
also the ace, oil. We wish them God speed, and sincerely
hope that the next session of Congress will do these broth
ers justice, and make them the 46th State — "Oklahoma,"
The editors departed from these Territories feeling
deeply grateful for the royal entertainment they had been
given in all the towns in which they had stopped, and fully
appreciating the generous hospitality that had been accord-
25

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
ed them — such as the National Editorial Association had
never received before. Long will the people of Oklahoma
and the Indian Territories have a green spot in the editorial
heart.

THE FLOURING MILLS, OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLAHOMA.

26

A HERD OF FAT TEXAN STEERS.

CHAPTER VI.
THE LONE-STAR STATE — TEXAS A MIGHTY EMPIRE,
SHORTLY before leaving Guthrie on their retum tour
the Texas delegation had pinned on each manly editor
ial breast a bright badge with the following motto:
All aboard for Texas. 1500 miles in Texas,
Every minute you spend in Texas you will be the
guests of the Texas delegation,
1500 miles through Texas — that expression, which
meant a trip longer than from New York to Chicago and
half way back again, gave most of the editors their first
impression of the greatness and immensity of that empire
State of Texas, But few people outside of the confines of
the Lone Star State have but the slightest conception of its
size and extent, A brief outline of the facts will help the
reader to realize in part what a vast empire it is. As it
has been well said:
Texas is the great keystone that supports the cen
tral arch of the United States,
For 400 miles it borders the Gulf of Mexico, and for
800 miles rests against the Rio Grande River. Extending
from the 26th to the 36th parallel of latitude and from the
94th to the 107th meridian of longitude, it embraces an
area of 265,280 square miles. Bare figures convey but a
meagre idea of distance or space. It is only by compari-
27

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
son that we get an idea of the relative importance of things,
Texas is an empire in itself. Compared with European
territory Texas is twice the size of England, Ireland,
Scotiand and Wales; a fourth larger than Germany, and
equal in area to France, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland
and Denmark. Compared with other States in the Union,
it is larger than Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi
and Louisiana combined. Michigan, Indiana, Illinois,
Wisconsin and Iowa could be dropped within her territory
and still leave enough unoccupied space to make several
states of the New England type. It is larger than the
whole of New England with New York, New Jersey, Mary
land, West Virginia, Pennsylvania and Ohio added.
Across the State from Texarkana to El Paso is further than
from Chicago to New York, and from Texline to Browns
ville is as far as from Chicago to New Orleans. When
Texas is as densely populated as New England it will
support a population of 73,142,000. The entire population
of the United States could be put down in Texas and yet
there would be no crowding and plenty of elbow room,
Texas is well adapted for an agricultural State, Its
soil is both rich and varied, indeed. Land can be bought
from $1 per acre up to most any price; according to state
of cultivation. It will grow in abundance wheat, com, oats,
cotton, rice, sugar cane, potatoes and juicy melons. All
kinds of fruit will grow there from apples to figs, and large
orchards of oranges and lemons are now being successfully
cultivated. As a cotton producing State Texas ranks first,
producing one-third of the entire crop of the world. The
annual crop and its by products mn in value from $155,-
000,000 to $175,000,000. 28

"4 " '"^ ,¦•.11' ' V''
. * . 1 V J.
*< -' A' ¦ r

•"T

THE MEXICAN SHEEP SHEARERS AT DINNER ON A TEXAS RANCH.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
The State has rich deposits of iron ore, coal, marble
and granite. The greatest and most phenomenal oil fields
in the world are located in south eastern Texas, near Beau
mont, In live stock— cows, steers, sheep, goats, horses
and hogs the ranches of Texas stand in front rank as to
quality and production. There are some of the largest
meat packing houses in the world located in Texas; among
which are represented the Armours, Swifts, Cudays and
others. Texas has a large timber area on which grow oak,
gum, beach, ash, elm, pine, magnolia and other less well
known woods. Texas has one of the best and absolutely
the wealthiest school system in the world. The State has
set apart to the common school fund, all told, about 38,-
000,000 acres of land. Of this there are 22,000,000 acres
remaining. The value of che land, in connection witia the
accumulated fund, amount to $40,000,000. The State
has also a very rich and flourishing State University, locat
ed at Austin. Separate schools are maintained all over
the State for the white and the colored children.
It is stated that the State of Texas, to-day, offers bet
ter opportunities for investment of capital and labor in the
ordinary lines of enterprise, either agricultural, industrial or
commercial than any other portion of North America, And
then Texas is mn on the principle of taking care of the
people, they having most stringent anti-trust laws, as the
Standard Oil Company and kindred monopolies have leam
ed to their sorrow and cost.
The great State of Texas is overwhelmingly Demo
cratic, and although the old saw that "Corn makes whiskey
and whiskey makes Democrats," is still heard in the land,
yet the signs of the times are that Texas will soon be a
29

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
prohibition State, so far as the indiscriminate sale of Hquor
is concemed. Many a northerner could take needed les
sons in many particulars from Texas.

30

CHAPTER VII,
DALLAS, HOUSTON, GALVESTON^THE COMMERCIAL
CENTERS,
N consequence of the big "blow" they had heard from
their Texan brethren the editors were anxious to see the
plains of Texas and taste of Texan hospitality. The edi
torial special left Muskogee about midnight and reached
Dallas at noon the next day (June 13.) The run down to
Dallas was made through a rich farming section, but some
of the northern editors were disappointed because those
those did not have the fine and substantial farm houses of
the Pennsylvania farmer. They had not become accustom
ed to the habit of that country of one-story farm houses, with
small bams, for all grain is threshed in the fields as har
vested. When the editors looked on the rich fields and
heavy crops they realized that they were in truth in the
"garden spot of Texas,"
The Texans are pushers, and as soon as the train
arrived in Dallas the pencil pushers were met by the re
ception committee and taken to the waiting special trolley
cars. The editors were given a trolley ride over the entire
city, and the fine city hall, magnificent court house, St,
Paul's Sanitarium, Dallas Public Library, Commercial Club
building, fine hotels and business blocks and private resi
dences were in turn pointed out, described, and viewed.
After the sight-seeing car ride was finished the visitors
31

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

were taken to'the large and finely appointed State fair
grounds, just outside the city limits. Here a dainty and
bountiful luncheon was senred the hungry and weary tour
ists, who discussed
all the good things
with the utmost rel
ish. From the ban
queting pavilion the
party adjourned to
the large auditorium
where the speech-
making feature of
the program was
pleasantly exemph
fied. The address
of welcome was
made by Mayor
Barry, followed by
Editor W. G. Ster-
ritt, who in a witty
and entertaining
speech told his nor
thern brethren how
glad he was to have
them come and see
their city and then
to go home again
and sing its praises.
On behalf of the

THE IMPERIAL HOTEL DALLAS,
TEXAS.

visitors Addison B. Burk, Esq., of Philadelphia, made an
eloquent response. In the evening the local lodge of B. P.
32

TYPICAL RESIDENCES, HOUSTON, TEXAS.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

O. Elks held a reception for our party in their handsome
rooms. The Elk building covei s an entire square and is
said to be one of the finest temples of that order in the
United States.
Dallas is one of the wealthiest and most important
manufacturing commercial cities in the southwest. It has
at present a population of about 82,000, and its energetic
citizens have
formed a club
whose sole pur
pose is to boom
the city and en
deavor to swell
the population
to 150,000 be
fore ninet e e n -
ten. They say
they will do it
sure. The city
has fine trans
portation facili
ties, having 8
different railway
, lines, with 84
THE ELKS' CLUB, DALLAS, TEXAS, . '
trains arriving
and departing daily. It has 62 newspapers and periodicals,
of which The News is the leading moming paper and The
Times-Hearld the most influential evening paper.
Late that night the editorial trains left for Houston,
where they arrived in time for breakfast next moming.
After breakfast the party was taken in charge by a com-
33

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

littee of the Houston Chamber of Commerce, and in special
olley cars guided the visitors through all the interesting
arts of that thriving commercial city of 75,000 people.
"he activity and bustle of the city impressed the editors

THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK, HUSTON, TEXAS.
sry favorably 3.nd told louder than words of the immense
alume of business done in that city. More cotton is
andled in Houston than any other city in the South, and
34

THE HARBOR AND SHIPPING, GALVESTON, TEXAS.

RAMBLES Tn THE FAR WEST.
tiie cotton compresses were seen by the editors and they
viewed with interest all the various processes at the cotton

THE FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, HOUSTON, TEXAS.
seed mills — where from the fuzzy cotton seed was taken
35

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
cotton batting, cotton seed oil extracted and refined, so that
it looke4 like the finest olive oil, and said to be often sold
as such in the North, and the residue of the seeds was
pressed into cakes for cattie feed and sold at $12 a ton.
After the trolley rides the party was taken to a mag
nolia grove, outside of the city limits and served with an
elaborate banquet, at which the freedom of the city was
extended to the pen fighters by Judge McKittridge, of the
County Court, in a witty speech. Among other things the
Judge said was that Texas never had a defaulting State
officer, and that their State was free from boss rule. The
Judge seeing so many ladies in the crowd, made himself
solid with them by explaining that they had a law in force
in Texas which gave the wives half of their husband's
property absolutely, with power to dispose of the same by
will. This made some of the women want to move to
Texas at once.
The reply on behalf of the editors was made by Addi
son B. Burk, Esq., of Philadelphia, who said that he might
as well admit that he came from the State of Pennsylvania,
which was completely in the hands of the bosses, and he
was glad to congratulate the Texans on their freedom and
generous hospitality. A large number of the scribes took
advantage of the stop in Houston to mn over to Galveston,,.
which was only 50 miles away.
The editors expected to find many signs of the great
flood in Galveston, but they were agreeably disappointed.
They found that the beautiful city had risen rejuvena
ted from the waves. Everywhere were seen signs of re
newed activity and progress, and on the beach was observ
ed the towering sea wall, witii its mighty granite front,
36

SEA WALL AND BATHING PAVILION, GALVESTON, TEXAS.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
erected by the United States Government at an expendi
ture of $50,000,000, to keep the majestic waves from again

o n l-H >om>
<!

O
jz: H W
>

devastating the city. The new Galveston has risen like
a sprite from the waves, and will be more substantial, great-
37

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
er and mere powerful than of old; and will be a shining
beauty spot of the gulf coast, and a sea port of which the
whole country will be. proud. Galveston is more prosper
ous than she was bsfore the gigantic tidal wave on Septem
ber Sth, 1900, swept out of existence thousands of her
people and destroyed million of dollars worth of. her prop
erty. The city, with its' deep harbor, extensive wharves,
great commerce snd lines of shipping sailing to all parts of
the world, is destined to scon become, and . remain, the
greatest seaport of tiie Southwest. Galveston has become
a great pleasure resort in both winter and summer. Her
bathing beach is the finest in the South, and the waters of
the Galveston Bay abound with tarpon, pompano, mackerel
and all kinds of sea food fish. The angler can have more
sport and make larger catches of fish than the immortal Sir
Isaac Walton ever saw in his wildest dreams. Galveston
has some of-the largest fisheries in tiie world. Large fleets
cf fishing boats are maintained, which are sent far out into
the gulf for food fish, and come in heavily laden with deli
cious fish, which are shipped North by the car loads.
While we were there a fleet of four boats came in having on
board a total of over one hundred tons of "red snapper," a
delicate and toothsome fish found in great numbers in the
Gulf of Mexico. It was intimated to us that many of the
red snappers, whose flesh is a beautiful pink, are packed in
cans and sold and eaten in the North for high grade salmon.
It is a fine table fish, whether it be sold under its own name
or by another name.
Galveston is the greatest cotton exporting port in the
South, and in one of the mammoth cotton ware houses there
we were shown $5,000,000 worth of cotton awaiting ship-
38

RAMBLES IN THE FAP. WEST.
ment to England to be manufactured into cotton goods and
returned to our coantry to be fashioned into fl.eecy gowrs

H W
H
n
t?-J z
p o H

for our gay "summer girls."
The cotton comes to the v/areho-ce in Iccse, iinmenss

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
bales weighing 550 pounds, and then it is placed in the
compress and squeezed down to one-third the size, thus a
ship can carry a three times greater cargo of cotton than it
could if the cotton had not had that bear-like hug.
The great sea wall, a mighty feat of engineering, is
over four miles long, sixteen feet wide at the base, five feet
wide at the top and seventeen feet high above low tide.
The foundation of the wall rests upon four rows of round
piling twelve inches in diameter and driven four feet apart
into the ground forty-four feet down into the solid clay.
The outside of the wall, next the sea, is fortified, or rein
forced by immense blocks of granite weighing a ton and
more apiece. The beach outside of this wall was crowded
with gay bathers when we were there, and some of our gay
boys invested a quarter in an abreviated bathing suit, and
sported in the waves for a while, making goo-goo-eyes at
the Galveston "buds."
The wide streets, green lawns, beautiful flowers and
handsome homes of Galveston excited the admiration of us
all. Galveston is called "The Oleander City," for all its
residence streets are lined with beautiful oleander trees frora
ten to twenty feet high, covered with bright and fragrant
blooms. The city of Galveston is situated on an island at the
westem edge of the Gulf of Mexico, and has the advantages
of a main-land town as well as those of a sea coast resort.
Like many another Texas town Galveston owes its discov
ery and foundation to the proud Castillian. In the year
1782 a Spanish fleet exploring the Gulf of Mexico discov-
ed this island and named the Galveston Bay and the island
in honor of Elf Exmo Senor Conde De Galvez, who was
40

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
then the Spanish Govemor of the Province of Louisiana. It
is a matter of history that in 1810, and for a number of
years thereafter, the notorious pirate Lafitte and his desper
ate band of buccaneers made their headquarters there while
they ravaged the shipping plying in those waters. Some
years later the island fell under the control and rule of the
Empire of Mexico, The following bit of poetry tells of
Galveston's attractions:
"Gem of Mexico's Gulf — northem shores,
A city after noble Galvez named;
Lovely scenes greet the eye, at its door;
Varied from bright, to lesser retain'd —
Evenings are enchantment of the mind —
Sunset o'er the sea, bright as maiden's cheek;
Transfuse life and joy of purest kind.
Only to give rest, where heart pleasure seeks
No check — the health-giving Beach to find,"
The social life of the city is very attractive and most
of the exclusive affairs are given under the patronage of
the Company of Honorable Ancient Artillery, which is a
hundred years or so old. The public buildings, the court
house, custom house. Cotton Exchange, Sealey Hospital,
St, Mary's Hospital, Rosenburg Library, Medical College,
Scottish Rite Cathedral and churches are all fine and stately
buildings and the business blocks are fine examples of their
kind. The city affords fine openings in all lines of business,
which will be rapidly absorbed. The United States Gov
emment, with engineer officers in charge, is engaged in
work on the harbor and fortifications, which will make Gal
veston one of the best and most completely guarded har
bors in the world, and no foreign fleet would be able to safely
41

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
enter that stronghold. The city has three beautiful parks-
Sherman Park, Central Park and West End Park. A

Ho >1-1 <;
o o>

O aO

magnificent driveway has been planned and is now in course
of constmction inside the sea wall and encircling the city.
42

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
The level of the city is being raised from five to ten feet
in places by sand pumped from the Bay and distributed
by dydraulic system, which is perfect and wonderful.
Having viewed all the wonderful sights of Galveston
our party returned to Houston.

CONCEPCION MISSION, SAN
ANTONIO, TEXAS.

43

CHAPTER Vin.
SAN ANTONIO — THE VENICE OF AMERICA — THE ALAMO—
THE MISSIONS.
HAVING arrived at Houston, our party visited a num
ber of places of interest, sought out their friends, were
wined and dined, and turned their thoughts to the forward

THE ALAMO, SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS.
journey. When the shades of night had again fallen the
weary editors retired to their cars and were soon rolling across
the plains to the historic city of San Antonio, which was
reached early on the morning of June 15th.
44

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

The day was bright and pleasant, and the temperature
very comfortable, just such a day as was best suited for the
tourists to see at its best
that quaint city. San
Antonio is most pictur
esque, and has been call
ed the Venice of Amer
ica. The city was set
tled by the Spaniards in
the year 1689, and the
romantic San Antonio
river rising in the green
hills several miles north
of the city, flows, with
its deep, dark green wat
ers, through the city in
a tortuous and serpen
tine course, and is cross
ed by many artistic
bridges. The city has
many ancient and his
toric buildings, which
were erected by the
Spaniards several hun
dred years ago. The
many notable buildings
and quaint customs of
long ago mingle witii
the beautiful and roman
tic aspects of tiie past, FOUR STREET SCENES, SAN
The old Spanish adobe ANTONIO, TEXAS,
45

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
house, with its galleries and large court yard, stands up
neighbor to a modem business house, a mild protest against
the encroachment of the busy activity of the present day for
sordid gain. One can pause by such a relic of the past and
imagine he can see the youthful and beautiful Spanish
senorita, with her black lace mantilla wrapped around her
head, looking from the barred window, on her lover singing
in the street below. The impress of the Spanish and
Mexican domination of the town is seen on all sides, from
Alamo Plaza to the uttermost outskirts of the city.

THE COUNTY COURT HOUSE — ^SAN FERNANDO CA
THEDRAL — MAIN PLAZA, SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS.
In the old days of the' power and influence of the Span
ish friar there stretched no less than 21 large, strong and
beautiful missions and monasteries from the Canadian fron
tier to the Mexican border. There are five of these noble
examples of the architect's beautiful fancy, and monk's la
bor and skill in the vicinity of San Antonio. They are the
Mission San Juan de Capistran, erected in 1716. The
46

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
Alamo Mission, built in 1718, The Mission San Jose,
built in 1718, The Mission San Francisco de Espada,
estabhshed in 1730, The Mission Concepcion de Acuna,
built in 1731, Of these missions that of the Alamo now
stands in the centre of the city of San Antonio, on the his-
toritic Alamo Plaza, The others are located from four to
six miles outside the city limits. All of these missions
were originally connected with each other by^ large under
ground passages, to afford a means of safety and escape.
Originally these missions were connected with large dormi-

THE FOUR FAMOUS SPANISH MISSIONS, SAN
ANTONIO, TEXAS,
tories, or cloisters, and the whole surrounded by a large
wall, some 20 feet high, built of adobe, or sun-dried bricks,
for the protection of the monks and their parishoners, who
in times of attacks by the blood-thirsty Indians fled to the
missions for safety. The monks lived chiefly by cultivat
ing the fields surrounding the missions and by bartering
47

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

CONFEDERATE MONUMENT,

Occasionally religious
services are still held in
the San Jose Mission —
on feast days. The
ruins of the mission
still show wonderfully
beautiful carvings and
decorations, display
ing master pieces of
skillful art i s t s . Of

with the friendly Indi
ans. These missions
have long since been
abandoned by the
monks as places of res
idence, and, with the ex
ception of the Alamo
and San Jose Missions,
are falling into mins.

THE ALAMO SIXTY YEARS AGO.

them all the Alamo
stands forth with most
historic interest to the
American. It was
therein in* February
of 1836 that America
had its "Thermopylae,"
but unlike that historic
THE ALAMO DECORATED FOR SAN battie field the Alamo
JACINTO ANNIVERSARY. had no "messenger of
48

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

defeat," for here none escaped. It was here for 1 1 days, in
that February of 1836, that handful of brave and valiant
Americans under Travis,
Bowie, Crockett and oth
ers, kept General Santa
Anna and his 7,000
Mexicans at bay until
their ammunition became
exhausted and the entire
garrison was massacred,
and their bodies bumed.
A month later General
Sam Houston, with his
Texans, defeated and
THE FIGHT IN THE ALAMO, .^p^^.^d Santa Anna
and his Mexicans. The Alamo is now used as a historical
museum. Plenty of places of interest are to be found in
San Antonio for the
tourist and the anti
quarian. The promi
nent public buildings
are the Federal build
ing, city hall, court
house, market house,
Carnegie Library and
the new Sunset depot
of the Southem Pacific
Railroad. The city
has within its limits 22
beautiful parks and plazas adomed with magnificent tropi
cal plants and giant palms. South of the city are the fam
49

SOLEDAD STREET SIXTY YEARS AGO
SAN ANTONIO,

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ous Hot Wells Springs, which
have wonderful health giving
properties. The city is fum
ished with the purest water
from 21 artesian wells, which
pour forth daily 41,000,000
gallons of sparkling water.
The streets are the finest kind,
laid in mesquite blocks, as
phalt, vitrified brick and ma
cadam. There are alone 67
miles of good madamized
roads. There are also 55
miles of electric trolley roads
in and surrounding the city.
One of the most interesting ^ WINDOW OF SAN JOSE MIS-
sights to the civilian is the SION, SAN ANTONIO,
United States Govemment post,
Fort Sam Houston, on the edge of
the city. The
ofificers and
soldiers sta- j^^W^ Mil
tioned there
sometimes

range m num
bers from 30,-
000 to 50,000 MEXICAN BASKET
men, and Con- VENDERS.
tribute largely to the gaiety of the
social life of the citv. Life in the
THE DOOR OF SAN JOSE ,, . ty. ±.uc in uic
MISSION Mexican quarter of the city was

50

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

-¥

•^^

especially interesting to those of the party who had never
seen the swarthy faces of the "Greasers" or heard their soft
and poetical language. The Mexican girls from 15 to 20
are beautiful as pictures, but from
20 to 40 they become exceeding
ly homely, and sometimes repul
sive from drinking mescal and
smoking cigarettes.
The committee of the Chamber
of Commerce of San Antonia, who
had the editors in charge, per
formed their task in a most agree
able manner, and all was done for
the comfort of
the inner and
*the outer man
that Southem
hospitality
could devise and offer. The
sights of the city were seen in the
mosty thorough manner, and were
greatly appreciated. Each of the
editors said good-bye to San An
tonio with keen regret, and with a
strong desire to visit its confines
soon again. A large number of
editors left the party here and re
tumed home.
By courtesy of the Southem
Pacific Railway, through its genial and efficient officers-
Passenger Traffic Manager Charles S, Fee and General
51

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

Passenger Agent T. H. Goodman — arrangements were
made to run the editorial special train over that road the
entire way to San Francisco, making stops along the route
to suit the convenience and pleasure of the editors. The
courtesy was greatly
appreciated by the pen
cil pushers, who have
none but kindliest words
of praise for these offi
cials and their road.
The Southern Pacific
certainly is one of the
finest railroads in the
country, and ranks with
the very best of them.
That road is familiarly
known the "Sunset
Route" and its "Sunset
Limited" from New
Orleans to San Francis
co is one of the best and
most palatial trains on
earth, fitted, as it is,
I with all the modem con-
jveniences of travel, with
dining cars serving
SAN JOSE MISSION, SAN ANTONIO, j^eals en route equal to
those of the swellest hotels in the land. This road is call
ed the "Open Window Route," because its locomotives
bum oil for fuel and there is no smoke, no cinders and no
dust, and the large and commodious observation cars add
52

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
to the comfort of the traveler, giving ample opportunity of
seeing all the beauties of the scenery along the route. The
observation car is equipped with a large library of the best
books of science, history and fiction, for the free use of the
passengers, and a fully equipped buffet.

SAN JUAN MISSION, SAN ANTONIO,

53

CHAPTER IX.

THE RIO GRANDE— THE PLAINS OF WESTERN TEXAS— THE
PECOS RIVER BRIDGE — EL PASO — ^JUAREZ, MEXICO.
THE evening of June 15tii saw all the moulders of pub
lic opinion at the beautiful "Sunset" depot ready to
board their special train, leave San Antonio and start in

chase of the set
"Sunset" depot
structure, built in
and coloring of
mission style of
is one of the
the city, surroun
beautiful droop
artistic hedges of

THE MEXICAN GOING
TO MARKET.

ting sun. The
is a beautiful
tme harmony
the old Spanish
architecture, and
beauty spots of
ded, as it is, in
ing palms and an
Califomia cyp

ress. The special train was soon speeding through the
night on its westward course, and the editors awoke early
the next moming to find the train rushing along the great
Rio Grande River, swollen by recent rains into a mighty
torrent. The river, in many places,
mshed along between high and pre
cipitous banks formed by rocky
cliffs, and on one side of the river
was the free and enlightened United
States of America, while on the op-
TYPES OF MEXICANS posite side, only a rifle shot away
54

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

was the effete empire of Mexico, the so-called republic, silent
as the grave. A few hours later the train was mnning
swiftly over our vast
rolling plains, covered
only with withered sage
bmsh and many varie
ties of cacti, seemingly
practically worthless as
farming or grazing
land, yet sheep thrive
and grow fat, finding
much nourishment in
MEXICAN VILA, SAN ANTONIO, the species of cactus
growing there called prickly pear. It is said that with ir
rigation these same apparently arid and unproductive plains
will blush and blossom like a rose. At different places
along the road, miles and miles from any town, were seen
large numbers of box cars fitted up with bunks and cooking
and eating arrange
ments. We were told
these were used by the
track hands who build,
keep up and repair the
road bed. These men
camp out thus for
months and months at
a time, during which
period they never see a
town. Among the
workmen are many Chinese, Mexicans and a large number
of Indians, who are said to make fair workmen — as long as
55

CHILI CON CARNI TABLES, SAN
ANTONIO,

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

HOME OF THE MEXICAN PEON.

they feel like it, and as long as they are kept away from
whiskey, or "fire water," as they call it. Both the Indians
and Mexicans of the lower orders will make any sacrifice,
or go to any
inconvenienceto secure suf
ficient whi s -
key to make
them drunk,
and when
they reach
that condition
they are ex
ceedingly dangerous and blood-thirsty wretches. Some
miles further west we passed Del Rio, and old Mexican
adobe town, which doubtless was so called because it was
not on the river (Rio). Late in the aftemoon, after cross
ing sandy deserts, we came to Viaduct, Texas, where there is
one of the largest if not
the largest, railroad
bridge in the world
spanning a deep gorge
of the Pecos River.
The bridge is almost
half a mile long and is
427 feet above the sur-
of the river. The train
halts on the centre of

BEAUTIFUL SAN ANTONIO HOME.

that great bridge so that tiie passengers may get out and
take a look over its dizzy side into tiie frightful depths be
low. Few can look in the water without a shudder of fear.
56

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

SAN FERNANDO CATHEDRAL, 100
YEARS AGO, SAN ANTONIO.

El Paso, at the extreme westem border of Texas, was
the last scheduled stopping place in the Lone Star State,
and it was reached by the special train Friday evening,
after a long and tire
some journey of well
nigh 1,000 miles from
San Antonio. The cit
izens of El Paso were
well prepared for the
descent upon them of
the hundreds of editors,
and the entire popula
tion, with committees
and a big brass band,
tumed out to greet and
welcome their guests. The address of welcome was made
by Zack Cobb, a lawyer, and a grandson of Howell Cobb,
of President James Buchanan's cabinet. "His speech was
full of fire, vehemence and buming eloquence, which made
the hearts of his hearers tingle as he bade them welcome to
the best the city affor
ded, and also he told
them of the future
greatness that was to
be her's. At the con
clusion of the speech
making the newspaper
men were taken on HOT SULPHUR WELLS, SAN
special trolley cars to ANTONIO.
view all the sights of that queen city of the Rio Grande
River. This beautiful city stands at an altitude of 3,717
57

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

FRUIT ORCHARD, EL PASO, TEXAS.
feet above the level of the sea. It now has a population of
over 30,000 people, and is rapidly increasing. By reason
of its locality at the gateway of Old Mexico, and the fact
that 19 tmnk lines reach and pass through the city, it is
destined to become the commercial metropolis of the South
west. It is practically the half-way house between the At
lantic and Pacific Oceans, and between Denver and the city
of Mexico, and has been the Mecca oi the health-seeker
and the resting place of the tourist for a quarter of a cen
tury. From El Paso can be reached the Mexican cities of
Juarez, Chihuahua, tiie City of Mexico and the numerous
other cities on the Mexican Central Railway, and the many
health resorts of Southern New Mexico. The beautiful
58

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
scenery of the Rio Grande, and the fine views of the
Raton and Glorieta Mountains to the north, and north
easterly the Sacramento and White Mountains, from 12,000
to 14,000 feet above sea level, add to the attractiveness of
the place. A mile or more outside the city can be seen
the clouds of smoke pouring from the largest ore smelters
in the world, where millions of dollars worth of gold and
silver are extracted from the stubborn rock and added to
the permanent wealth of the world. North of the city,
nestling against the great Franklin Mountain range, is Fort
Bliss, one of Uncle Sam's most important military reserva
tions, where the most daring cavalry riders and scouts are
trained. Every way one may turn there are objects of

BALING ALFALFA, NEAR EL PASO, TEXAS.
59

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

interest and beauty to be seen. After making the inspec
tion of El Paso, the editors were taken across the large
bridge spanning the Rio Grande to Ciudad-Juarez, Mexico,
and given their first
close view of a foreign
land. The Mexicans,
knowing what had been
done earlier in the day
by their "Gringo"
brethren of El Paso, de
termined to show the
Americans a thing or FLOATING GARDENS, MEXICO,
two. The Board of Trade, accompanied by the Alacade
and all the other town dignitaries, tumed out with a fine
band to bid the visitors welcome, and do them honor. To
the delight of the younger ink-slingers, as well as many of
the "old boys," the delegation was accompanied by a host
of the prettiest and most attractive senoritas that Mexico
can boast of. What
the charming senoritas
lacked in language tiiey
more than made up in
languishing, captivat
ing glances, and many
of the boys left with
lacerated hearts at the
PRIVATE RESIDENCE ON THE hour of parting. In tiie
PASEO, MEXICO, reception committee
were the Quien Sabe Elks, of El Paso, who, clad in their
new and picturesque Mexican suits, and wearing broad
sombreros, looked very unique. The public reception was
60

DEL TOREO — THE MEXICAN BULL FIGHT — THE REAL THING.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

CHURCH OF ST, GUADALUPE, OVER 300 YEARS OLD,
JUAREZ, MEXICO.
held at the Mexican Custom House, where very palaisble
refreshmerts, and plenty of punch and cognac brandy, were
served the visitors. The editors were free and easy and
made most of tiie pleasures of the occasion, banishing dull
care and all tiioughts of the troubles of the 'morrow. The
bewitching senoritas, as a souvenir of the occasion, pinned
to each editorial breast a miniature Mexican straw sombrero
hat, to which was attached a ribbon bearing the motto:
"Viva el Cuarto Poder, El Paso, Texas and Juarez, Mexi
co, Junio 16, 1905," The town of Juarez being a very old
Mexican town, many objects were seen there telling oi the
61

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ancient Spanish occupation, and on all sides were places of
interest to tiie inqusitive American. To many the old
Spanish mission, with
its beautiful cathedral,
dating back over 300
years, was a place to be
admired and wondered
at. The massive walls
of the cathedral and the
beauty of its lines show
ed that the old dons and
monks built for ages to
come, witin an eye also
VIEW AT THE HEAD OF THE SAN ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ beauty.
ANTONIO RIVER. g^^ ^^ American Sab-
bath lovers there was great incongruity in the location of
the cathedral, for a short distance back of its walls stands
the city arena, where the worshippers, after services each
Sunday, retire to witness and applaud the cruel, bloody
and dangerous bull fights which take place there. At
these fights atrocious
cruelties are practiced
and hundreds of bulls
and horses are ruthless
ly killed annually, and
not unfrequently the
matador ( the man who
fights against the buH)
is gored to death. The
u-n u J f .u SAN PEDRO PARK, SAN ANTONIO.
bill boards of the town
were covered with the most remarkable flaming posters
62

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

announcing the grand regular bull fight for the following
Sunday. The posters were printed half in English and
half in Spanish. The English part of it read as follows:
"Plaza de Toros de C.
Juarez, Sunday 18, at
8.30 in the night. The
most sensational bull
fight ever witnessed in
Juarez. Troupe of
youthful Amateurs, all '''^'^''j^i
Americans, belonging
to the most exclusive
society, of El Paso,
Texas, who have of
fered their services to

DEER IN BRECKENRIDGE PARK,
SAN ANTONIO,

the Junta Patriotica for this bull fight, with a view of rais
ing funds for the Benito Juarez Monument, demonstrating
as neighbors and friends of this Republic, that they are
carried off by the National enthusiasm, which has been
aroused to erect a monument to the memory of one of the
greatest men in the His
tory of the Nation.
4 — Brave Bulls — from
Samalayuca and San
Martin ranches. All to
the death." The biU
also gave a full list of
the names of the mata-
dores, picadores and
banderilleros. The ad
mission price was named at seventy-five and fifty cents.
63

SAN ANTONIO 50 YEARS AGO.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
The remainder of the bill was taken up with the same ad
vertisement repeated in Spanish.
Other public buildings, including the jail, were inspec
ted by the party, after which considerable time was spent
in buying Mexican souvenirs, from the high conical Mexican
pointed straw hat, with its bullion band, to the handsome
Mexican blankets of most vivid hues. Strange as it may
seem, when the newspaper men and their girls re-crossed
the bridge into El Paso, and the United States, not one of
them had any article on which to pay duty to Uncle Sam.
Perhaps the custom house officers were just a little human
that day and tumed their blind side to the returning tour
ists. The remainder of the evening was spent in carriage
drives around the fine roads of El Paso, and 8 o'clock the
tourists again turned their faces westward.

bird's-eye VIEW OF FORT SAM
HOUSTON. 64

CHAPTER X.
THE DESERTS OF NEW MEXICO AND ARIZONA — THE CACTI.
THE CITIES OF TUCSON AND YUMA,
THE way West from El Paso for over 1,800 miles,
passing through New Mexico and Arizona, is over the
dryest and most parched deserts in the United States, on
which nothing but sage bush and cacti grow. Yet in all
its forlomess the desert presented attractions to the student
of nature, for the cacti in numberless varieties, shapes and
forms for hundreds of miles stretched along the tracks with
their bright and varied blooms, giving the sandy wastes a
peculiar and irresistable beauty. At one time for miles and
hours we passed through what seemed to be an endless
garden of the species cacti known as "Spanish daggar"
which were in full bloom and crowned with the most beau
tiful blooms of white flower-like bells, some blooms five feet
long, that we had ever seen. We longed to stop the train
that we might pluck a few of those majestic blooms and
send them to our friends in the east. The cacti in many
places were veritable forests with specimens from 8 to 12
inches thick and growing to a height of 15 and 20 feet.
The stations and towns along this road were small, few
and far between, and water a scarce article, wells being as
far as 70 miles apart, and to many of the railroad watering
stations the water for the engines had to be hauled a much
65

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

further distance. The railroad repairs along the Southem
Pacific road are done by hands who are quartered in box
cars, tumed into sleeping cars and hauled from place to
place as needed, and each gang carries its own cook and a
water car tank, often an old abandoned oil car. So it is
readily seen that the life of the railroad gang man is not a
happy one, and they
naturally have among
their number some of
the toughest specimens
of humanity seen in the
country. The great
sand storms of these
deserts, with their fierce
winds laden with sand,
in a few minutes will
bury the railroad en
tirely out of sight and
make it an imperative
necessity for the road to
keep numerous garlgs
along that part of the-
line to be quickly used
when needed. The
road in its course west
rises to an elevation of
5,082 feet above sea
level, and then again it CRQCKET STREET BRIDGE OVER
goes down so low that SAN ANTONIO RIVER,
at Salton it is 263 feet below the sea level. The road,
with its risings and fallings of grades, represents great en-
66

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

gineering feats, and it is wound around through rocky
gorges and along sides of cliffs like a mighty serpent
winding its way to the sea. In places benches were cut
out of the sides of high cliffs, and large over-hanging rocks
were left, which, to the timid passenger, seemed ready to
fcJl at any minute and crush the cars and all therein. The
road does not touch
any of the important
towns of New Mexico,
and the next place of
any considerable mag
nitude after El Paso
was Tucson, Arizona,
which has a popula-
approximating 20,000
It is full of vim, push
and energy, and has
all the modem im
provements, with man
ufacturing plants, that
many a larger city
might be proud of.
It is up at an eleva
tion of 2,400 feet
above the sea, and is
a veritable oasis in
the desert; a beauty
SAN FERNANDO CATHEDRAL AND spot in the sandy
MILITARY PLAZA, SAN ANTONIO wastes. The early
history of Tucson is full of romance, dating back to the
days of the Spanish conquerors. The courageous Spanish
67

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
padres, as early as 1649, carried their religious banners
into that country, and founded the nearby San Xavier
Mission. A settlement soon sprang up, and later came the
Spanish garrison to protect the settlers from the raids of the
blood-thirsty Apache Indians. The place soon came to be
known as Tucson, from the name given by the Indians to
the waters in the Santa Cruz Valley, near the town. La
ter, in 1853," Tucson and the surrounding lands, by the
Gadsden purchase, became United States territory. The
town later became an
important station on the
over-land coach mail
route, and still later a
^ hustling frontier town.
Its future prosperity and
growth was not fully
assured until 1 884, when
the Southem Pacific
Railroad was built into
the town. Since that
date the improvement
Tucson has been rapid
and substantial, until
she has become a mod-
 em citv; a great busi-
A RIVER BRIDGE, SAN ANTONIO. >' &
ness center; a metropolis
of some very considerable importance. The city is full of
modem homes and fine business houses, but it has still on
it many of tiie marks of the Mexican domination — its nar
row streets, lined witii adobe houses, and large Mexican
population, who still cling to all the customs of thefr Spanish
68

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

MOONLIGHT ON THE COLORADO RIVER AT YUMA.
ancestors. Even her newest buildings are built in beauti
ful Spanish and Aztec designs of architecture. It has its
clubs, its churches and societies of the best secret orders to
make life joyful and comfortable. With its important loca
tion and commercial enterprise, it presents many fine oppor
tunities to the business man and capitalist.
Of course every one wanted a souvenir of the day.
These Indians of the once fierce and powerful Yumas are
now apparently as gentle as lambs, and given over to the
ways of peace. But it was not always thus with them, for
in their annals are traditions of many a bloody war-path.
One of their most fiendish outrages was away back in 1781,
when the braves, led by their demonical Chief Palmer, de
scended, like a thunder bolt out of the clear sky, upon the
two Spanish missions near by, and with the utmost cmelty
murdered all the peaceful friars, women and children, who
had taken refuge in the mission buildings. For this out-
69

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

rage dire revenge was later inflicted upon the Yumas, and
they were, glad to "bury the hatchet" and smoke the pipe
of peace,: ¦ The situation of Yuma is low, being only 140
feet above the ocean level, but the air is dry and healthy.
The Yumaites will admit, with a smile, that it is occasion
ally just a trifle hot there in the summer time. Heat, of
course, is entirely a matter of personal feeling. The city is
progressive, and enjoys a good trade. The mines, the
agricultural enterprises and the stock raising industry all
contribute largely to the stability and wealth of the city.
The business houses are modem and well suited for the
demands of active business methods. The picturesque be-
galleried- buildings, which once were called Fort Yuma,
have become devoted to the ways of peace, and now shelter
the young Indians who are being taught to be good at the
expense of Uncle Sam, The Colorado River — as its name

THE YUMA INDIAN FAMILY.
70

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE PALM DRIVE, YUMA,
signifies, is "red" at Yuma, with the soil of many an acre
which it is carrying on. its bosom to soften the outlines of
the Gulf of California below, where the river loses itself.
The waters o^ the Colorado River, near Yuma, are being
utilized to irrigate and reclaim some 50,000 acres of parch
ed and arid land. Looking to the north from Yuma, 65
miles away, is seen, loonfting up in the clear sky, the hat
peaked mountain named Castle Dome, and to the south
Pilot Knob, which for hundreds of years have been guiding
signs for the voyagers of the plains.
From Tucson the railroad rapidly descends from the
"divide" until at Yuma, Arizona, it is but 140 feet above
the level of the ocean. This city is said to- be the hottest
place on the face of God's green earth. It is related that
a former wicked man of Yuma was called to his reward and
awoke in the realms of his Satanic majesty, and found the
heat there so cold that he had to come back to Yuma to get
71

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
his blankets to keep him warm in his new home. Yuma is
situated at the meeting place of the powerful Colorado
River and Gila River — an abundance of water — and still
the people there are very partial to the drink that made
Gambrinus famous. Numerous Indians live in and around
the city, and they flock to the station on the arrival of trains
to sell the guilelss and unwary tourist their cmde bead and
feather work at large prices. At Yuma the tourists saw
their first oranges and lemons growing on the trees.

THE YUMA INDIAN ROSE BUD.

72

CHAPTER XI.
THE PLAINS AND VALLEYS OF CALIFORNIA — THE GOL
DEN STATE — THE SEA OF SALT.
FROM Yuma the Colorado River was crossed and the
Sunset State of California was reached on the further
bank of the stream. There was a long run through arid
plains on ffrst reaching California. At Salton a salt lake
was seen, where the waters evaporate quickly leaving a
good grade of salt, which is hauled away by the car load
and purified for commercial use. This part of Califomia
has such a pure air and dry climate that the high tempera
ture has no ill effect on the people, while the nights are
cool, allowing refreshing sleep. The country, with its fine
climate is a veritable Mecca for persons suffering from tu
berculosis. Salton and the surrounding country is in a large basin
of what was once, doubtless, a vast inland sea. The land
is about 300 feet below the level of the ocean. Back for a
hundred years and more, to the time that the memory of
man runneth not to the contrary, the valley surrounding
Salton was a waterless, sandy waste. About two years
ago the water was noticed to be rising in the lowest part
of the valley, and soon Salton Lake was formed. Various
theories have been advanced for the sudden appearance of
the lake, but the most reasonable one is that the waters
escaped through some underground channels from the im-
73

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

GENERAL VIEW OF YUMA, ARIZONA.
mense irrigation plants in Arizona. At Indio, 25 miles
farther west, we found hosts of consumptives sleeping out
under the trees in mosquito net covered cots. Here we
were told have been wrought most wonderful cures by
Nature's own restoratives. Patients have come there so
weak and exhausted that they had to be carried off the
cars, helpless as little babies, to rise strong men and walk
away the next summer fully restored to health. Inva
lids from all parts of the world flock to Indio for relief; few
there are who go away uncured, and none go away with
out receiving some substantial relief.
Surrounding the station is a scene of rare tropical
beauty — there are the vine and fig-tree, the orange, stately
palm trees, luxuriant flowers and other tropical growths.
Indio lies down far below the level of the ocean, in what
was once the bottom of an inland sea of vast expanse. We
74

ARISTOCRATIC PORTION OF MEXI
CAN QUARTER, SAN ANTONIO,

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
observed no particular
difference in the atmos
phere, or comfort of
breathing. The geo
logical evidences indi
cate that where Irdio
now stands the briny
waves were once fath
oms deep. Abundant
supplys of good, pure
and clear water for man
and beast, and for re
freshing the thirsty
land are obtained from
deep artesian wells. There is hotel and boarding accommo
dations for travelers at Indio. A finely equipped sanitarium
provides for all the wants of invalids. When the train
stopped at the station a host of children — white, black and
brown — ^besieged the passengers to buy oranges, fine sweet
ones, at the rate of two dozen for a 25-cent piece. "One
curious effect of reflected sunlight, atmosphere, salt and
chlorine gas, always to be seen at points between Indio
and Volcano Springs, and called Mirage, is the appearance
of a beautiful body of water at the south, with islands, large
and small, trees and verdure, and invitation to the thirsty
to come and be satisfied; but go not, for it is waterless — not
a drop to be had, though you died for it."
There has been some talk of establishing a national
sanitarium for consumptives at Indio, and there are strong
hopes that the project will materialize. The editors on the
moming of June 16th opened their eyes early to gaze upon
75

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

the scenes that help to make California great. Fields so
large, that farms in the east seem small by comparison,
were seen, made fertile by irrigation, and closely followed
acre upon acre of bright green orchards, with the sparkling,
life-giving water flowing between their rows, and the trees
ladened with the finest of fruit — plums, olives, figs, apples,
peaches, oranges and lemons.
In the distance, from the railroad, were seen the noble
hills and grand mountain tops. To the traveler California,
so vast and so varied, is bewildering. Few, even of its
old residents, know one-half of its attributes or its charms.
Its very sun and sky and air fascinate. Frowning cliffs
and towering trees all speak of the wonders of out-of-door
living. The valleys, the hills, the peaks and the grand
and mgged mountains, with snow clad crests, and the
never-tiring sea, make pic
tures of sublimest beauty,
to charm even the dullest
mind. The climate of the
"Golden State" is most , ,
wonderful. In the valleys |^
are found days of contin
ued sunshine, where 330
days out of the whole year
are bright and rainless —
a perfect tropic climate,
with all the tropical fruits
from the palm date to the
pomegranate. In the dis
tant foothills hides a more
bracing air, while in the

LADY OF THE LAKE SCHOOL,
SAN ANTONIO.

76

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
more distant high 1^ A- s- lm
mountains the bracing Kja^^^^^^lSsM^-^^^^uL.
air of winter may be f^*^^| i(;Tp^^i_^ fW^Hw
found, and in the win- j" (,:„[[[ j j gj j j 6^ 11 BE 15' HH
ter months the visitor jlfrnlntt 5 6 111 Bi tt 11 ffi^
ter sports. The win- J
ters in Califomia are
ideal, and cause thous
ands annually to flee SAINT LOUIS COLLEGE, SAN ANTONIO
there to escape the rigorous winters in the east, for in the
valleys and on the sea coast can be found a tropical climate
all the year around. The summers of that State are simply
idyllic, for all the days are bright and full of sunshine, and
pleasant, and no rain comes to mar the pleasures of out-
of-door life. The heat is dry, but not oppressive, while the
shades of night continually bring cool and refreshing
breezes, inviting sweet and restful sleep. The hottest days
are always followed by cool nights. The climate is the
most equable known. The State is full of mineral springs.
In the Sierra Nevada Mountain region, and other parts of
the State, are enough health-giving mineral springs of the
greatest efficiency to drive the baths of Germany out of
business could the health restoring qualities of their waters
become known to the many sufferers who annually seek the
waters of Europe.
The State is full of all kinds of game; the lakes and
rivers are teeming with the gamey trout, and all other kinds
of fish, making it a veritable sportsman's paradise, for there
77

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

are no rains to come and spoil his plans or mar his sport;
so that life in camp is one continued round of joy and
pleasure. Califomia obtained its name, the "Golden State," from
the fact that it is so rich in gold-bearing sands and rocks.
On January 19th, 1848, gold was ffrst discovered in Cali
fomia, when James W. Marshall, an employee of General
John A. Sutter, found in the mill-race of Coloma, El Dora
do county; bits of sparkling metal that he knew were gold.
Like the shots at Lexington and Concord, Marshall's cry
of "gold" was heard 'round the world. Hither in two
years thereafter from over land and over seas came more
than a 100,000 adventurous men to dig for the yellow metal.
The State from that day to the present has continued to
produce from her mountains and rivers vast quantities of
the golden treasure, enriching the seekers after wealth.
In fmits and grain and all kinds of vegetables Cah
fomia stand in the front ranks of production, while her hills
and mountains produce coal and all kinds of minerals, and
her pastures raise sleek cattle, fat sheep and fast horses.
A hundred years or so ago a Spaniard planted some pota
toes in Southem Cali
fomia, but before he
could dig his crop a
band of Indians drove
him out of the section.
Recently some excava
tors on the site of the
potato patch dug up a
fine crop stones, the po-
FALLS ON SAN ANTONIO RIVER, tatoes having petrified
78

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE CARNEGIE LIBRARY, SAN
ANTONIO.

into that material. The
varied manufactories of
the State provide amp
ly for the needs of her
people. She is a veri
table empire within her
self. It is said that
California, by reason of
vast resources and var
ied industries, is the

only State in the Union which is entirely self-supporting,
and that she could be lifted up bodily and set down in the
midst of the great Pacific Ocean and still go on in her self-
supporting way.
Saturday aftemoon as the train speeded past the vast
wheat fields, with their golden grain, the pencil pushers saw
an example of westem push and energy. In the fields were
seen large machines which are pushed instead of pulled by
the horses. These machines, we were told, were "head
ers," or machines, which, as they pass through the fields,
cut off only about six inches of the top of the wheat and
bunch it up. These heads are then taken to another part
of the field, where a large steam thresher stands at work,
and soon the golden grain is taken from the chaff. After
the header follows the mower, which cuts down the straw,
and a baler nearby packs the straw in bales ready for ship
ment to the markets far and near for feed. Thus it is the
harvesting and threshing cire done in the fields, as a con
tinuous performance, and there is not the double handling
of crops seen in the east; nor is there any need of big bams
to store the grain in the sheaf, for the grain goes from the
79

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
fields to the waiting markets, and is quickly transferred to
the life-giving bread to feed the nation. Farming is done
on such a large scale that most of it is done by machinery,
and but little hand labor is necessary on most of the farms.
The vast level fields in the valleys and plains make it a
very simple and easy matter to use the complicated mach
inery. The ease with which those people farm would make
the Pennsylvania farmer envious could he see them. There
was something of interest and wonderment that met the
views of the travelers all along the way, and even the des
erts were not without their attractions. But it remained for
Califomia to give the tourists the biggest surprises.
After a hard and tiresome day the editors retired to
their berths and dreamless sleep on Saturday night, and the
"music" made by several gentlemen on the car, who did
not snore, failed to keep them awake.

80

CHAPTER xn.

RIVERSIDE — HOME OF THE ORANGES — THE MAGNOLIAS.

The awakening of the editors on the moming of Sun
day, June 18th, was one of great surprise; one of seeming
enchantment; for when they retired to sleep the night be
fore there were no signs of a city, but only vast fields.
Now, when they looked out of the windows of their cars
they saw their train was standing on the streets of River
side, one of the most beautiful cities in California, and to
the right of the train was one of the most beautiful parks
imaginable, filled with many varieties of the tallest and
handsomest palms, tree ferns, tropical plants, gorgeous flow-

fr^-^j^^

.^ #' M
^^ ¦?^*' -1^^

M-

>¦

•».

ORANGE GROVES AND MOUNTAINS, RIVERSIDE,
81

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

A PALATIAL HOME, RIVERSIDE.
ers and orange trees loaded with golden fmit. It seemed
as if the editors had dropped down into Paradise. It took
but little time for the editors to alight from the train and
start to investigate these unwonted and, to many unknown,
beauties of nature. Some passed through the residental
streets beyond, and there they found orange trees growing
in profusion. One lady handed an editor a garden rake
and told the boys to help themselves. It did not require a
second invitation of that kind, and the editors were soon
raking the sweet, luscious, juicy fmit from the trees in large
quantities. The party took early breakfasts at the vatious hotels
and restaurants, after which they boarded special trolley
cars provided by the Chamber of Commerce and proceeded
to see the sights of that most beautiful city, first running
out Magnolia Avenue, so cahed because it was lined by
those beautiful trees, loaded down with a wealth of scented
flowers. The fine sights of the city, the places of business
82

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

and the palatial homes of the people of wealth were seen.
The cars ran out into the country, so that the visitors might
see the orange groves and orchards. One spot visited was
a high round topped hill whose sides were terraced to the
foot and each terrace filled with orange trees and loaded
with fruit, some
^ ¦ green and many
ripe, on the same
tree. On their
retum to the city
the party was ta
ken to the Glen
wood Hotel, one
of the finest and
most completely
equipped in Cali
fomia, which is
saying a great
All that one needs to enjoy life at that great cara
vansary is money. The hotel was originally an old Span
ish mission, and was known for a time as the Mission Ho
tel, but it soon outgrew the demands of the tourists, and
the new palatial building was erected a few years ago. The
old building still stands in the grounds, in front of the present
hotel, and is used as a writing and waiting room for the
guests. In front of this building stands the original naval
orange tree imported from Brazil. The tree was trans
planted to its present position a few months ago by Presi
dent Roosevelt. At Riverside the tourists were in the cen
tre of the orange district of California, Riverside county
alone having over 20,000 acres of land devoted to the cul-
83

THE GLENWOOD HOTEL, RIVERSIDE.

deal.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

AN ORANGE PICKING SCENE, RIVERSIDE.
tivation of oranges. All land there is not perfectly adapted
to the culture of oranges, and for that reason good orange
land sells as high as $2,000 an acre, and in some instances
has been sold at a much higher figure. It takes about ten
years for an orange orchard to come to the profitable bear
ing age, and if the land is not all right the "tenderfoot"
will loose aU the thousands he has invested in his orchard
of golden fruit. Yet, when the land is right, and the orch
ard matures properly, there is a mint of golden money in
the golden fruit for the fortunate possessor of the orchard.
The introduction of the seedless navel orange has revolu
tionized the orange industry of the United States, and es
pecially in Califomia. The first trees were sent to this
country by William Judson, United States Consul to Bahia,
Brazil, Hearing an account told by the natives of a few of
the trees bearing the seedless fruit in the swamps along the
Amazon, he sent for some of the sprigs. At first the De
partment of Agriculture did not seem to pay much atten-
84

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
tion to the new trees; but when one of them, which had
been planted in Califomia, bore some of the delicious fruit,
interest was aroused, and the industry had its beginning.
The yield in Califomia is worth millions annually.
After the sights of Riverside were exhausted a run of
50 miles was soon made by the special train, and the me
tropolis of Southem California, the City of Los Angeles, was
reached. The run up to the city was through vast orch
ards of oranges, lemons, olives and other fmits.

ONE OF THE FINE PUBLIC BUILDINGS, RIVERSIDE.

85

CHAPTER Xin.
LOS ANGELES — PASADENA, THE BEAUTIFUL — MOUNT
LOWE — THE ALPINE TAVERN.
ON arrival of the editorial train at the Arcade station,
Los Angeles, the party took the special trolley cars
in waiting and were conveyed to the palatial and magnifi
cent Lankershim Hotel, which was made headquarters
during the sojourn in that city. As it was Sunday after
noon, most of the party spent the time quietly resting at the
hotel. In the evening many of the party wishing to hear
a noted divine, went to the Presbyterian Church to hear
Rev. Frank Talmage, son the famous Rev. Dr. Dewitt Tal-
mage, preach. The boys were disappointed, and did not
hesitate to say that the son could not hold a candle to his
most illustrious father. It was apparentiy a case of the son
winning glory through the fame of his father.
During the stay in Los Angeles the editors were the
guests of the Chamber of Commerce, composed of the fin
est, most energetic and public spirited men we have met
anywhere, and each one of them has the advancement of
California, and especially of Los Angeles, at heart, and is
fuU of information, facts and figures touching the growth
and possibilities of that favored land with which to interest
and entertain their visitors. It goes without the saying
that the members of the Chamber of Commerce acquitted
themselves royally in the entertainment of their guests.
86

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

THE RESDENCE OF DR, A. C. BRIGGS, PASADENA.
Monday moming, June 19th, the entire party was
taken out on trolley cars to Pasadena, a short distance
from Los Angeles, which is filled with palatial houses, and
is said to be the wealthiest city of its size in the United
States, if not in the world. Like New York, it has is mil
lionaire row, of palaces of the very wealthy.
The name Pasadena is derived from the Spanish
words Paso de Eden (the Threshold of Eden) and weU
might one think it was Eden, for there is the bright sky,
the most beautiful flowers, the rare palms and magnificent
tropical trees, the beautiful and radiant valley stretching
mile upon mile below, and the homes of beauty and gran
deur. Among the celebrities who dwell there are the fam
ous Bob Burdette, the brilliant lecturer, of Burlington Hawk-
87

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
eye fame, who is now a noted Baptist divine, and Mrs,
James Garfield, widow of the martyred president. Next
the modest cottage of Mrs, Garfield, by strange irony of
fate, stands the palatial home of the sister of Guiteau, the
notorious. One of the sights of Pasadena is the magnificent, royal
hotel. The Raymond, one of the most luxuriously appointed
hotels in the world. That hotel was built to cater to "par
ticular people with means," and that means you can have
all the luxurious comforts home, but you must pay for your
entertainment with plenty of ready cash. The hotel is sit
uated on quite a hill, about a mile outside of the city of
Pasadena, and has a commanding view of the beautiful

THE HOTEL RAYMOND, PASADENA.
88

SOME HANDSOME SCHOOLS, PASADENA, CALIFORNIA.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

San Gabriel Valley. Although the hotel is located on a
hill, no climbing is necessary to reach it. Guests enter a
tunnel, or subway, at the foot of the hill mnning 305 feet
straight into the earth. At the end of the subway, which
is lighted by electricity and adorned with rows of potted
flowers and palms, are the
elevators which carry the
guests to the hotel rotunda.
Upon entering the hotel one
is charmed with its appoint
ments. All are in exquisite
taste and on a lavish scale.
The hotel library for the free
use of the guests has over
500 volumes on its shelves.
The trolleys took the editors
to the foot of Mount Lowe,
where an incline railway
3,000 feet long landed them
on the top of Echo Moun-
I tain. The incline, with its
topless cars, was a thing of
terror to the timid. It rises
to an altitude of 1,400 feet
THE MOUNT LOWE INCLINE and most of the way up the
ELECTRIC RAILWAY. grade is 62 per cent per 100
feet. At the top another set of trolley cars were boarded
for what proved to be a terrifying ride to the top of tiie
mountain, on which stands the Alpine Tavern, over a mile
above the sea. The road is five miles long, and has in it
no less than 300 curves, while the longest piece of straight
89

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
track is 225 feet. The road as it ascends the mountain
winds through gorges and along the edges of the most pre
cipitous cliffs, by the side of dark and cavernous chasms,
which follow each other in rapid succession, and many of
the men in the party, as well as the ladies, were so wrought
up by the dangerous ride that they were unable to eat the
excellent dinner that had deen provided at the Alpine Tav-
em. It was intimated that even the two gray headed vet
erans from Armstrong county were so badly frightened that
they had recourse to the forgotten supplications of their
youth. To those who could enjoy the ride it was a rich
and rare treat. The panorama, as the road ascended the
mountains, of the valleys, hills and mountains spread out in
a picturesque, and grand scene, thrilling the spectator and
filling him with wonder, pleasure and delight — a scene is
presented beyond words to describe. At every curve in
the road a new picture of the beauty of Nature's creation
was presented. Close by were the rugged mountains; the
chasms, precipices and gorges, while 6,000 feet below, in
the valley, spread the farms, vineyards and orange groves.
The Alpine Tavem, where the dinner was served, is a
quaint stmcture, built after the style of the Swiss chalets so
familiar to the traveler on the Alps in Switzerland. From
the Tavem and Prophet Point, on a clear day, can be seen
a magnificent vista stretching up to Los Angeles and miles
beyond to the channel islands in the sea.
The descent of the mountain was even more terrifying
than the ascent; for as the passenger sat looking down the
the mountain it seemed as if every moment the cars must
leave the rails. Yet the descent was safely made, and
none were any worse for the trip, except those who lost
90

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

their fine dinner. On retuming to Pasadena the Chamber
of Commerce took the editors around in carriages to see
those portions of the city that cannot be seen from the trol
leys, and the palaces of the rich, with their lawns filled with
flowers, palms and all kinds of tropical trees, and fuchias
and rose bushes that were veritable trees, were viewed with
pleasure. There is not another city of its size in the country
so well supplied with hotels as is Pasadena, for in addition
to The Raymond, already referred to, it has the palatial
Hotel Green,
with its six
stories, which
occupies two
city blocks,
and has all
the comforts
so much de
sired by ex-
THE HOTEL GREEN. travagant
Americans, and was erected at a cost of over $1,000,000.
Then there is the beautiful Hotel La Pentoresca, accommo
dating about 500 guests; while there are also dozens of
fine, but smaller, hotels where all kinds of accommodations
can be had at all scales of prices.
At South Pasadena is an unique business enterprise —
The Ostrich Farm. It is the only farm of the kind out
side of the sandy deserts of Africa. Here there is a flock
of about 200 ostriches — from the freshly hatched chicks to
the full-grown birds. The company owning the farm do a
large and profitable business in the sale of the "plumes"
and various articles made from the feathers of the birds.
91

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE HOME OF ADOLPH BUSCH, PASADENA.
There is no winter there as we know it in the East,
for the mean annual temperature does not vary much from
60 degrees. Pasadena has been justly called the "City
Beautiful." Speaking of winter there a visiting poet said:
Across the lawn and past the flowing fountain,
A bare-foot boy chasing butterflies,
My childhood's terror has become an angel.
Winter and I have met in Paradise.
Pasadena, on each recurring New Year's day, has a
magnificent celebration that draws thousands of visitors
from far and near to its hospitable borders. It is called the
"Tournament of Roses," It opens up in the moming with
a long procession of carriages, automobiles, pony carts,
donkey carts and vehicles of every description, all profuse-
92

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
ly, beautifully and artistically decorated — aye, smothered
in the most gorgeous, beautiful and fragrant roses. Then
follows the "Battle of Flowers," engaged in by the white
and hoary-headed sage, as well as the smallest tottering
child. Once seen, this beautiful pageant will never be for
gotten. In the aftemoon are held the exciting chariot ra
ces, and the gaiety of the day finds a fitting climax in the
grand ball in the evening, where is seen not only the youth
and beauty and wealth of California, but of many a sister
state and foreign country.
Pasadena has a special city charter which does not
allow a single liquor saloon to be opened in the city, hence
the chief of police and his subordinates are very much like

A GLIMPSE OF THE HOTEL MARYLAND.
93

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
soldiers on dress parade, with little or nothing to do.
After the drive encircling the city the editorial party
was escorted to the magnificent Hotel Maryland, and
tendered an elegant reception by the citizens of Pasadena.
At the conclusion of that function, the party took the trol
ley cars and retumed to their hotel in Los Angeles. Mr.
Warren White, editor of The Joumal, Los Angeles' most
popular and influential daily paper, tendered the party one
of the most enjoyable receptions of the trip at his hand
some home in the suburbs of the city. The White man
sion stands in a large private park of over two acres in ex
tent, which is adomed with all kinds of beautiful and gor
geous flowers and palms, ferns and tropical plants, making
it a veritable bower of beauty. The enchantment of the
scene was enhanced by hundreds of electric lights scattered
through all parts of the grounds, while a fine orchestra
hidden in the shadows poured forth strains of sweet music.
Just enough bright speeches were delivered to promote the
harmony of the gathering, and a most generous amount of
refreshments were served to make every one feel good and
happy. Brother White played the part of host to perfec
tion, and no one hesitated to vote him a "white" man and
a jolly good fellow. May his good fortune continue and
his shadow never grow less is the ardent wish of the N. E, A.

94

BATHING HOUR AT AVALON, CATALINA ISLAND.

CHAPTER XIV.
SANTA CATALINA ISLAND — THE MARINE GARDENS —
THE LEAPING TUNA.
TUESDAY moming, June 20th, found all the editors
Stirring early, preparing for an experience new to most
of them — a ride on the briny deep — the Pacific Ocean. A
special train conveyed the party to San Pedro, a shore
town, on the Pacific Ocean, a distance of 15 miles from
Los Angeles, where they were soon hustled on board a
small steamer for a 27-mile ride out on the ocean to the
famous Santa Catalina Island. The ride was much enjoy-
. ed by the few who had good safe stomachs and easy con
sciences, but the poor fellows who had a past and decidedly
uneasy consciences paid tribute to Neptune in no uncertain
way. These latter ones were so miserable that they smiled
not, nor noticed neither friend nor foe. All that they de
sired was to be left alone in their misery. They had all
the qualms of the genuine "mal de mere," First they had
chills playing foot ball up and down their spines; then they
bumt up with fever; later they donated their breakfast and
every other loose thing to the mighty deep. In the first
stage they feared they were going to die — next they did
not care whether they died or not, and at last they wanted to
die. The good sailors of the party were merciless in their
chaffing of their less fortunate comrades, and suggested all
manner of good things to eat to their great agony and dis-
95

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

tress of stomach. One poor fellow who had stmggled hard
to save part of his anatomy from the cruel waves, was af
fronted by his better-half, who came upon the deck and
asked him: —
"Robert, have
the children
come up yet?"
He paused
long enough
in his strug
gles to reply
in an aggriev
ed tone: "I
don't know a
d — n thing
about the chil-
dren,but every
thing else has
come up."
Many of our
party for some
years cherish
ed fond dream
of the delights
of a voyage '
across the < g
broad Atlant
ic to view
Cathy's fabled shore; but a few hours on the bosom of the
calm Pacific shattered this dream into infinitesimal frag
ments. The ocean for them was no longer blue, but ugly,
96

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
green, salty and decidedly shaky. The charms of a life
on the ocean wave were gone, and they at once gave up
hopes of seeing Europe until the bridge be built across
Behring Strait, when they can travel on the train "de luxe."
If there had been any dry way of walking back those fel
lows would not have again trusted their bodies and fortunes
to that shaky boat for the retum trip. The truth of the
matter is the waves were calm — they were only little baby
waves, and it is thought that some of the editors grew sick
at seeing so much "unmixed" water at one time. They
even did not have time to watch the flying fish which were
skimming plentifully about the ship all the way out. These
fish use their four peculiar shaped fins for sailing over the
water, and go as far as 400 feet in a single flight. They
average from 12 to 18 inches long.
The objective point of the voyage was Avalon, the
main town and port of Santa Catalina Island, located on a
beautiful, natural land-locked harbor. The island is about
30 miles long and its area is 40,000 acres. It is an im
mense mountain, with sloping sides, which has been thrust
up out of the depths of the Pacific Ocean by some volcanic
action, and is a place of great beauty. It abounds in game
and the waters surrounding it are full of fish, large and
small, including the great leaping tuna, mnning in weight
to 300 pounds, making the place a ideal sportsman's para
dise, Avalon has its Tuna Club of 150 members. Each
season a gold medal is awarded the member who lands the
biggest tuna. It is claimed that one tuna is the equal of
two or three tarpon in point of strength. It takes from 30
minutes to seven hours to land one of those "kings of the
97

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

PORT AND STEAMER LANDING, AVALON.
deep," and they have been known to tow a boat 20 miles
before they would give up the fight. The record catches
with rod and reel for single fish are as follows:
Col. C. P. Moorehouse. Pasadena, 251 pounds
Mrs. E. N. Dickinson, New York, 216 "
John E. Steams, Los Angeles, 197 "
Charles F. Holder, Pasadena, 183 "
The ocean water is so clear and calm in the bay at
Avalon that the beautiful marine growths can be distinctly
seen at a depth of 150 feet from the glass-bottomed boats
provided for that purpose. The growth on the ocean's bot
tom there of ferns, mosses and sea weeds, some 40 and 50
feet tall, are so beautifully colored in rich and harmonious
hues and tints, and of peculiar and fantastic shapes, that
they are appropriately called sub-marine gardens. It seems
strange that nature should be so prodigal with such rich
colorings so deep beneath the ocean waves, and when one
holds a piece of moss colored in the most delicate shades of
blue and purple it is hard to realize that its home was deep
98

THE TROPICAL PARK ON THE BEACH, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
beneath the salty waves. The abalone shells gathered on
the shores of the island and under the water are most quaint
and beautiful, tinted, as they are, with all the delicate hues
of the rainbow. From these shells are made all sorts of
souvenirs, including stick-pins and other sorts of jewelry.
The flesh of the abalone sometimes weighs as much as
two pounds. It is much esteemed for food by the Chinese
and Japanese, and it is dried and shipped in great quanti
ties to the Orient. An American company now operates a
large cannery at Cayucos, Califomia, where they prepare,
can and ship large quantities of cooked and also dried aba-
lones for the home and foreign markets. By many the ab
alone is regarded as a much cleaner, wholesome and deli
cate food than the oyster.
There is fine still water bathing and the Hotel Metropole
affords first-class accommodations for visitors, mciking the
island a fine winter, as well as summer resort. There is
always a crowd of boys, who are expert divers, at the bath
ing places, ready to dive from the boats into the deep water
after the dimes and nickles which the visitors may throw in.
The entire island is owned by one man, who is making a
mint of it and its attractions for strangers, and his resour
ces from the people to whom he grants concessions are
enormous. After a few hours spent most pleasantly on the
island the editors re-embarked and retumed to Los Angeles.
A hundred miles and more to the south of Los Ange
les, on a beautiful bay, which glows like a golden mirror in
the sunshine, is the ancient and attractive city of San Diego,
which has become a most popular winter play-ground for
tourists from all part of the world. Here it was in the hot
summer that the valiant and saintly Padre Junipero Serra
99

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
landed, and on July 16th, 1769, founded the Mission San
Diego de Alcala, the ffrst of the 21 Spanish missions which
in after years did so much for the conquest and civilization
of that country.
That colony flourished, and on November 1st, 1776,
Father Serra established nearby the Mission San Juan de
Capistrano, which now has fallen into a beautiful and pa
thetic min. Out on a small island in the Pacific Ocean,
scarce a mile from the shore, is erected the pretentious and
mammoth Hotel Del Coronado, one of California's most
famous and popular caravansaries. Here could be most
comfortably accommodated in regal style a whole regiment
of guests at one time.

100

A ROSE EMBOWERED YOUNG LADIES' SEMINARY, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA.

CHAPTER XV-
LOS ANGELES — THE CITY OF ANGELS — ITS POWER
AND BEAUTY.
THE evening in Los Angeles was taken up by the final
reception given by the Chamber Commerce in their
handsome building on Broadway, and it was a very pleas
ant affair. Many happy speeches were made, light lunch
was served and sweet music by an orchestra enlivened the
occasion. The reception took place in the museum room,
a very fine and complete apartment, filled with all manner
of relics and curios typical of the early days of Califomia,
during the period of Spanish domination. There is also a
complete display of all the fruits, products, minerals, woods
and fauna of the State, particularly of that section. Here,
in a few hours, can be leamed all about the resources and
possibilities of the Golden State.
The town, or pueblo of Los Angeles, as the Spaniards
called their towns, had a romantic commencement, and its
first name was Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angeles — •
"Our Lady, the Queen of the Angels." The town was
founded September 4th, 1771, by a small band of Spanish
pobladores, or colonists, and from that small beginning it
has grown to be a magnificent city of 200,000 souls. It
has over 350 miles of graded streets, 25 miles of paved
streets, and is the commercial metropolis of Southern Cali
fomia. The principal exports are fruits, fresh and dried,
101

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

vegetables, beans,
wine and brandy,
wool, honey, canned
goods, sugar, wheat,
com and barley. Its
banks' deposits ap
proximate $70,000,-
000, and in 1904
the bank clearaces
amounted to over
$335,000,000. The
assessed valuation
of property mns over
$150,000,000; this,
on a basis of one-
third valuation,
would show real es
tate worth about
$450,000,000. It
has four trans-cont
inental lines enter
ing the city — the
Southem Pacific
Railway, the Santa
Fe Railroad, the ^ STREET SCENE IN JANUARY,
Sunset Route and LOS ANGELES.
San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad. It also
has a deep water harbor at San Pedro on the Pacific Ocean,
15 miles from the city, from whence its products are shipped
to the uttermost parts of the earth.
The city is one of the best lighted in the world, its
102

A TYPICAL RESIDENCE, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
lighting being done by an admirable system of electric
lights extending all over the city. Many of the lights are
placed on exceedingly high masts, and seen from one of
the surrounding hills, the view of the city at night is strik
ingly beautiful. Broadway, there, is the most brilliantly
lighted street in the world. It is lined from one end to the
other with handsome electroliers, 50 feet apart, on which
are clusters of three large frosted globes in which shine
brilliant and strong incandescent lights, making the thor
oughfare as light as day.
One need not walk in Los Angeles for lack of cars,
for there are over 200 miles of well equipped electric lines
in the city. There are also excellent suburban trolley lines
running to Santa Monica, Redondo, Long Beach, Pasa
dena, Altadena, San Pedro, Alhambra, San Gabriel, Mon
rovia, Whittier and Glendale, A project is on foot to build
an extensive suburban belt line taking in all the towns
within a radius of 30 miles of Los Angeles,
There are a dozen fine parks within the city limits,
having a total area of over 600 acres. The city also owns
Elysian Park, containing some 500 acres, which they ex
pect to greatly improve and make one of the finest munici
pal parks in the land.
It is a city of handsome homes, of the most beautiful
gardens in the world, and the mild climate enables them to
raise the most delicate plants and flowers, while all manner
of tropical plants, flowers and ferns thrive there and obtain
a most brilliant beauty. At Christmas time may be seen
hedges of calla lilies in bloom and rose and geranium trees
10 and 15 feet high crowned with a wealth of beautiful
flowers. All the residences stand far back from the street
103

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

TROPICAL PALM HOME, LOS ANGELES.
line on well-kept lawns. There is no winter and no hot
summer in Los Angeles. They have what they call an
"all-the-year-'round climate," that is, no extremes of either
heat or cold. There is always a pleasant breeze coming
inland from the ocean, and a record of the thermometer for
10 years shows their hottest day to have been 97 in Sep
tember, and the coldest day to have been 34 above zero in
January. Certainly it is, as the Angelesians say, an ideal
climate to bring health, comfort and happiness to all who
are fortunate enough to live in it.
The business houses are many and large, and devoted
to all lines of commercial trade. Last year there were
shipped from Southem Califomia no less than 28,000 car
loads of lemons and oranges. In the neighborhood of the
city hundreds of acres are devoted to the culture of celery,
which is shipped to the East by the train loads. A few
104

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
miles out in the country the eyes of the traveler meet with
a surprising and beautiful sight. It is nothing less than
acre upon acre crowned with calla lilies, tuberoses, cama-
tions and numerous other varieties of beautiful flowers, be
ing raised thus outdoors wholesale for the markets. They
are sold as cut flowers, while the bulbs and seeds are ship
ped in great quantities to the Eastem markets.
The prices of farm lands in the vicinity of Los Ange
les ranges from $30 to $100 per acre for hay and wheat
land, to $250 to $300 for irrigated land adapted to fmit
culture. A short distance south of Los Angeles are highly
productive oil fields. Last year Southem Califomia alone
produced close to 28,000,000 barrels of oil. The Califomia
oil is much heavier than the eastem oil, and is especially
well adapted for fuel. It is said that this fuel oil at $1 per
barrel is equivalent to a ton of coal at $4 per ton. Their
oil is now being used extensively on the railroads, and also
in the manufactories, and makes a cheap and very clean
fuel. The oil fuel is surely destined to make a radical
change in the near future in manufacturing and power pro
ducing plants.
Although it is only a little over 10 years since oil was
first discovered in Califomia, the State from the fields in the
Newhall, Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, Kean, King and
Fresno districts is producing annually upwards of 50,000,-
000 barrels of oil. It is true that the Califomia oil is not
of the same grade as the Pennsylvania product, but it
makes a fine lubricant, and is a most excellent and power
ful fuel. Los Angeles is about to tussle with the drink question
in a novel manner. The problem is to be met and carried
105

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE PALM BOULEVARD, LOS ANGELES.
out as a cold business proposition. A syndicate of 25
prominent business men — bankers, merchants, lawyers and
capitalists, has been formed to take over all the 200 licenses
now in force to sell liquor in the city. It not is a scheme
for the purpose of making money, but a plan to adopt the
Gothenburg (Sweden) system of controhng the liquor traffic
in order to minimize its evils. The syndicate is to close
130 of the present 200 saloons, run the remaining 70 and
pay the city the same license fee as it receives from the 200.
All profits in excess of six per cent will be paid into the
city treasury for the purpose of decreasing taxation and of
increasing school facilities and improving the parks. The
syndicate will pay annually to the city $252,000 in license
fees for their 70 saloons. They will sell none but the purest
106

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

liquors. No liquor
will be sold minors,
persons of known in
temperate habits,
drunkards, women
or on Sundays, No
games will be al
lowed in the saloons.
No seats or tables
will be permitted in
the saloons. The
outcome of this pro
ject in Los Angeles
will be eagerly
watched by the coun
try at large.
The plan has been
carried out with
great success in
Gothenburg for 50
years. After three
days fuh of joy, com-
ANGELES. fort and pleasure the
editors left Los Angeles with keen regret early Wednesday
morning, June 21st, for the next break in the tour at Santa
Barbara, Califomia, some 110 miles northwest of Los An
geles, on the coast of the Pacific Ocean. The ride up
that morning, with the ocean breezes fanning our cheeks,
was delightful. On the way we passed through some of
California's most productive oil fields, and the sight was
smell of the crude oil was vile. A
107

AN AVENUE OF PAN PALMS, LOS

interesting, but the

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
short distance from Santa Barbara, at Summerland, once a
fashionable bathing resort, we passed the strangest oil field
in the world, and saw out in the ocean derrick after derrick
rising out of the waves. Just think of it ! sinking oil wells
down through the briny deep to bring up the oil. It seemed
an impossible enterprise, yet there were the derricks, with
the wells underneath, flowing oil. We were told that these
wells were very good ones, and were producing thousands
of barrels of oil daily. The whole thing showed what ap
parently impossible things the Yankee can do if he hustles.

f^k--'

THE HOTEL LANKERSHIM,
LOS ANGELES.

108

•viNHoanvo 'Nvaoo oiaiovd ni siiaM tio

HOTEL POTTER AND BAY, SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XVI.
SANTA BARBARA — THE INCOMPARABLE — THE NEWPORT
OF THE PACIFIC,
ABOUT noon our special pulled into Santa Barbara,
the incomparable, the Newport of the Pacific Coast.
By this time the editorial mind dwelt more on the good
things to eat than of sight-seeing, so they rushed off to the
palatial Potter Hotel, where an elaborate luncheon was
served. This is one of the finest of the California resort
hotels, and was erected at a cost of something over a mil
lion and half dollars. At a pinch it could accommodate
1,600 guests. It has two immense dining rooms, each of
which will accommodate 500 persons at a sitting. The
Potter is situated a short distance back from the beach in
the midst of a beautiful little park, in which are all manner
of shrubs, bushes, palms, plants and flowers, and they have
no less than 30,000 rose bushes that bloom all year around,
and also 40,000 calla lilies in bloom. The hotel is inde
pendent of the markets. For its supplies it has a large
ranch of its own from which comes its cream, milk, butter
and eggs, chickens, ducks, pigeons, squabs, vegetables, etc.
At the squab ranch they raise annually thousands of deli
cate, delicious squabs to tickle the palates of their guests.
The hotel employs from 300 to 400 people continually, and
has everything at its command and within its control for
all the wants of its guests. Although the hotel has been
109

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE SPANISH MISSION, SANTA BARBARA.
open only about three years, it has become famous, and has
had phenomenal success. After the luncheon the Santa
Barbara Chamber of Commerce provided carriages to take
the visitors around the town, to the old Spanish mission and
to drive up over the mountains to Miramar.
The first stop was made at the Santa Barbara Mission,
one of the quaintest and most picturesque missions on the
coast. The mission was founded on December 4, 1786,
by Father Fermin Lasuen, one of the Franciscan Fathers,
and it shows but little traces of the 120 years of use. The
walls are still staunch and strong, the red roof tiles perfect,
and the beautiful paintings in the church are wonderfully
fresh and well preserved. The stone steps leading into the
church have been worn in holes by the footsteps of peni
tent worshipers and curious tourists.
The work of building the mission was carefully done,
but it was slow and tedious. The labor was done by the
110

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
friars, assisted by the Indian converts, to whom fell the
drudgery. The walls are of solid masonry and are from six
to ten feet thick. The stone and timbers were prepared by
the crudest instruments and carried for miles on the backs
of the Indians. The mission proper is 165 feet long, 40
feet wide and 30 feet high, and all roofed with red sun
burned tiles.
The whole mission is surrounded by a 20-foot wall,
enclosing the buildings and a large court yard, in which
are buried many Brothers and about 5,000 Mexican and
Indian converts. Connected with the mission is a monas
tery in which live about 40 of the brown-coated and bare
footed brothers of St, Francis, who care for the mission and
hold services there every day in the year. It is said that
the altar fire, which was kindled there 120 years ago by
Father Lasuen has never been suffered to go out from that
day to this, so zealously has its sacred flame been watched.
The mission, since its foundation to the present time, has
been in the control and occupancy of the Franciscan Fath
ers. The church, school and relic house are always open
for visitors, and venerable monks received our party kindly
and conducted us through the buildings, explaining every
thing, and even answering the most irreverent questions
with dignity and kindness.
The ever-present charity box is evident in all the
buildings to receive the shekels, large and small, of the
charitably disposed. It is true that all do not see or stop
at these boxes.
The most of the work on the mission buildings was
done by converted Indians, under the direction of the fath
ers. It is a remarkable fact that from the opening of the
111

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

GARDENS OF VIRGIN Y MARTYR MISSION, SANTA BARBARA
mission to the present time there has not been a single day
that prayers have not been offered at its altars.
From the mission the carriages took the pcirty up over
a beautiful 17-mile drive, ascending and skirting the sides
of Santa Ynes Mountains. The road tumed and circled
up the mountain like a large tortuous snake, and there
112

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

opened up a new vista of beautiful scenery. Away below
lay the city with its 10,000 people, encircling the bay of
Santa Barbara, while far beyond stretched the blue waters
of the Pacific Ocean, dotted here and there with a green
gem of a little island. As the road descended the moun
tain it passed through beautiful groves of oranges and
lemons, and most handsome private homes set in the most
beautiful surroundings of evergeen trees, palms, tropical
plants and terrace upon terrace of the most exquisite and
fragrant flowers we have ever seen, all of which were kept
fresh by irrigation with water piped down from the moun
tain streams. In many instances the pipes were perforated
and run away up into the higher trees, and the simple turn
ing of a valve created an artificial rain, bathing and re
freshing the trees and shrubbery. On the way back to the
hotel a stop was made at the beautiful home of Mr. James
Reed, where refreshments were served and the boys given
the freedom of the lemon and orange orchards and allowed
to take all the fruit they wanted. On the return some of
the boys indulged in their first dip in the Pacific Ocean a
short distance from the hotel,
Santa Barbara is connected with San Francisco by a
steam ship line

and also by the
Coast Line Rail
road, In all the
world there is
not such a charm
ing situation as
Santa Barbara.
Mountain, valley.

THE CLOISTERS, SANTA BARBARA. 113

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
woods, sea and island, coupled with a climate that never
says no to any recreation or sport; a past in history written
in romance; a face which still betokens the soft, imaginative
lines of its Spanish heritage. Is it any wonder that thous
ands of pleasure and health-seekers annually flock to its
pleasant borders ? and as the seasons come and go its pop
ularity will continue to increase.
While we were in the city thousands of Christian En-
deavorers were gathered there for a convention, and some
of the editors were very indignant when some of the recep
tion committee attempted to decorate them with C. E.
badges. After a day full of pleasure the scribes left Santa
Barbara about eight o'clock that evening for Monterey,
California.

114

CHAPTER xvn.
DEL MONTE — THE SUPERBLY BEAUTIFUL — MONTEREY —
CALIFORNIA'S FIRST CAPITAL.
EARLY the next morning the editorial special was
stopped at the magnificent and beautiful park sur
rounding the Hotel Del Monte, a few miles outside of Mont
erey. Arrangements had been made for the entire party to
take breakfast at this world famous hotel, and soon the ed
itors were gathered around the tables, well keeping up their
reputation as the "Eating Association." The menu was
fine and all enjoyed it to their utmost.
The Hotel Del Monte has been voted by world-wide
travelers to be the most noted and most beautiful resort of
the world, and there are none to gainsay that assertion. It
is situated on the Bay of Monterey, one of the most beau
tiful and attractive bays of the world, and is about 125
miles south of San Francisco. The immediate grounds of
the hotel contain 126 acres, and there are several thousand
acres adjacent that are owned by the company which owns
the hotel. The park is a most beautiful and wonderful dis
play of landscape gardening. Plants, trees, flowers and
shrubs from the uttermost parts of the earth are here. Rug
ged, gnarled trees centuries old are there, standing neigh
bors to the palm and banana tree. The entire grounds are
strikingly picturesque and highly cultivated. Broad sweeps
of lawns, deep splashes of floral coloring, weird shapings of
115

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

HOTEL DEL MONTE, DEL MONTE.
oak and cypress trees, all delight the artistic sense. Just
to look upon that vast stretch of natural beauty, embellished
by man, soothes and delights the beholder. The Maze
Walk, or Cypress Labyrinth, formed out of the California
cypress trees, trained in all sorts of fantastic shapes, and
planted on the lines of the old maze puzzle, gives hours of
sport to the younger folks, who delight to beguile the un
wary into the maze and lose them there, and then let them
take several hours to find their way out.
From the hotel there is a romantic drive of 17 miles
along the southern shores of the Monterey Bay and through
the groves of cypress trees, some of which are estimated to
116

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
be 4,000 years old. The cypress trees have grown in all
manner of grotesque forms, and two especially have so
grown together and joined their foliage that, at a distance,
they look like an immense ostrich. There is excellent
bathing in the surf of the bay, and in addition the hotel has
an immense bathing pavilion, with all the modern appli
ances for in-door bathing, with salt water artificially heated.
The hotel owns a fine golf course which delights the lovers
of the Scotch game. There is excellent fishing in the bay,
and the finest kind of boating, as the waters are generally
very calm and smooth.
There are also provided a number of glass-bottomed
boats for the purpose of viewing all the wonders of the sub
marine gardens, for which the Bay of Monterey is so fam
ous. These gardens are even more beautiful than those of
Santa Catalina Island, for here the waters are not so deep,
and the plants, mosses and fems can be more clearly seen,
and seem to have more vivid and beautiful colorings, mak
ing one think that some master painter has transferred the
brighest hues from his palette upon their leaves. There
are certainly more beautiful things hidden under the ocean
wave than man has ever seen, or even conceived, in his
most vivid imagination.
The Hotel Del Monte is a massive and mammoth
stmcture, erected in the Elizabethan style of architecture,
and is fitted up with all the modern conveniences. The
hotel can accommodate about 2,000 guests, and their cheap
est rates are six dollars per day, and as much more as you
want to pay.' Their cheapest cigars are two for a quarter,
so the poor editors did not smoke many of them. The
only thing that prevented the scribes from spending a full
117

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

month at tiie Del Monte was the lack of time, and, inci
dentally, lack of cash.
From Del Monte our party used the trolley cars to
visit the old town of Monterey, founded in 1603 by Sebas
tian Vizcaino, and Pacific Grove. At Monterey were found
many objects of historic interest. It is one of the oldest
towns in Califomia, and here, on one of the principal streets,
still stands the first frame house erected in the State.
There is also still standing there a house that was brought

^^^l^^-

THE SAN CARLOS BORROMEO MISSION, MONTEREY.
from New York, around Cape Horn, on a sailing vessel,
and re-built in Monterey. The first United States custom
house on the Pacific Coast was located in Monterey. The
Spanish Mission of San Carlos, which was founded in 1770,
by the fearless and saintly Junipero Serra, is a picturesque
and interesting building. It is in a wonderful state of re
pair, considering the fact that itis 136 years old. Beneath
its altars rest the bones of Serra and the faithful brother of
his soul, Crespi. Numerous other ancient adobe houses in
Monterey carry one back to the days of the Spanish
118

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

cavaliers. To
day the place
of the Spanish
knights, with
their glittering
panoply o
arms, is taken
by the blue
and gold of

Uncle Sam's troops, who,
1,200 strong, are quartered
on a million dollar reserva
tion, a short distance with
out the city gates.
Pacific Grove, the neigh
bor to Monterey, with its fine
CYPRESS POINT AND THE GOLF LINKS, DEL MONTE.
119

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
bathing beach, presented an alluring attraction to the dusty
editors, who were glad to have a dip in the briny deep.
Pacific Grove is much like our Ocean Grove, of the Atlant
ic Coast, and it is the annual meeting place of the various
Methodist societies of Califomia, and of the Chautauqua
movement. It is a strictly temperance to'wn, as not a single
saloon is allowed within its confines. It is practically a sea
side resort of homes, and is extremely popular, as very low
rates are made between that place and San Francisco.
After a short time spent in Pacific Grove, the party retumed
to Del Monte to take their train and continue the joumey
northward. The special train left Del Monte shortly be
fore noon, but just before the train started a host of fakirs
gathered at the station selling the beautiful pelts of the sea
gulls, pelicans and storks, tanned ready for use, and sea
mosses and beautiful abalone and other curious sea shells.
It was the first meeting of the editors with the real souvenfr
fakirs, and they were easily separated from their shekels.
The bird pelts were really beautiful, and were sold at ex
tremely low prices. Next winter the editors' wives and
sweethearts will be wearing beautiful hats decorated with
these birds' feathers, and carrying bird muffs which would
have cost quite a few dollars if bought at a fashionable mil
linery emporium in the East. Each of the editors carried
away at least one souvenir from Del Monte, and some
carried many.

120

GENERAL VIEW OF SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA.

CHAPTER XVni,
SANTA CRUZ — THE ATLANTIC CITY OF THE SUNSET STATE
SYLVAN BREAKFAST 'NEATH THE "BIG TREES."
THE ride around the bay to Santa Cruz was very
pleasant and made very enjoyable by the beautiful
views of the Bay of Monterey had from the car windows,
and the fresh salty breezes which came up from the blue
waters of the Pacific Ocean were most refreshing. Santa
Cruz is situated on a beautiful little cove on the northern
side of the Bay of Monterey, and almost directly across
from the town of Monterey.
Our train reached Santa Cruz late in the aftemoon of
June 22d, and stopped in front of the handsome Casino, on
the water front, where we were greeted by a committee of
the Board of Trade, with a full brass band playing, "Lo,
the conquering hero comes." The greeting was a royal
one, but as the editors had fasted long hours they excused
themselves while they went into the Casino restaurant to
refresh the inner man.
After the late dinner, or lunch, the editors spent the
remainder of the afternoon as their various tastes dictated,
though most of them availed themselves of the opportunity
to sport with Neptune in the briny deep, and, incidentally,
flirt with the fair California damsels who crowded both the
beach and the surf.
Santa Cmz is the Atiantic City of the Pacific Ocean
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RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
coast, and is crowded with people during the entire season.
It was unusually crowded when we were there, as the peo
ple of that city and section, both old and young, had deter
mined to show the editors a great time. As subsequent
events developed they certainly did it to the queen's taste.
The city is undoubtedly the most popular place of resort on
the Pacific Coast, by reason of its fine bathing beach, fish
ing and aU manner of summer sports. The town has
plenty of hotels and boarding houses of all kinds and con
ditions, and in addition an enterprising corporation has
built a large "City of Tents," with modern conveniences and
baths on the grounds; pure water, a good restaurant and
fine sanitary arrangements, which they let out a moderate
rental to the summer visitors. The city is full of life and
they advertise "Not a dull moment from May 20th to Oc
tober 1st," Three band concerts daily. Dance at the
Casino every evening. Plunge baths, hot baths, surf bath
ing, fishing, boating, excursions on the Bay, picnics at the
¦'Big Trees," vaudeville, fireworks, electrical displays,
aquatic sports — variety enough to please all people. The
Bay of Monterey, at Santa Cruz, on account of "the placid
waters and the great varieties and vast numbers of fish in
it, make it by long odds the best fishing place on the
coast. Here are found "the royal king salmon," steel heads,
sea bass, sea trout and numerous other varieties of large
and gamey fish. In one moming's sport an expert fisher
man caught 32 king salmon, none of which weighed less
10 pounds. Back of Santa Cruz stands a high mountain range pro
tecting it from the heat of the valleys beyond, thus giving
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RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
the city a very equable and pleasant climate throughout
the entire year. There are no snows and no extremes of
cold and heat.
The city is progressive, and forging ahead rapidly
under the impetus given it through its Board of Trade and
energetic citizens. Mr. H. R, Judah, the genial Secretary
of the Board of Trade, is a hustler of the first water, and
knows how, in a few minutes, to impress upon you all the
merits and good points of Santa Cruz (there are no bad
points) and make you believe the city is the beau ideal of
all spots on the Pacific Coast. After Mr. Secretary has
started ball rolling, there is Joe Hom, that whole-souled
and jolly good fellow, who once called Pittsburg home, and
a host of other good fellows, like the Robison boys, and
others, to keep the push going. We remember them all
most kindly. In fact, all the men we met were hustlers —
even mine host of the Casino, though he was a trifle slow
in serving our hungry host.
Each man in the town seems to have constituted him
self a Santa Cmz boomer. Well, they have a good thing,
and we do not blame them for booming it. Their efforts
are being crowned with success, for the town, which had a
population of 5,665 in 1900, to-day has about 13,000 peo
ple, a gain of over 100 per cent, in five years. The people
of Santa Cmz pride themselves on the grapes raised in
their county, and also on the vintage that comes from them,
especially the Cresta Blanca brand. Their grapes are
noted as the finest table grapes grown on the coast. And
here is the home of the fomous Loganberry.
The gardens of the city were, indeed, "bowers of
roses," So many and grandly beautiful were those flowers
123

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
and the beautiful calla lilies, and sweet-scented heliotrope
grow there in the most luxuriant and bewildering profusion.
There is no difficulty there in making even the sweetest of
flowers grow out doors, and the rich and poor alike can
have their beautiful flowers in unlimited quantities.
All these things the editors saw as they were whirled
through the city on the trolleys. Retuming from the ride
we enjoyed a brief siesta in our cars, then took supper and
adjourned to the Casnio where we were given a brilliant re
ception by the Board of Trade and people of the city. The
reception was followed by a fine band concert, which, in
tum, was followed by a beautiful special display of fire
works out on the water, after which followed a complimen
tary ball for the editors in the Casino ball room, at which
the young editors, and some of the old ones, danced with
the pretty girls until they were compelled to stop from sheer
exhaustion. The music was furnished by an orchestra
composed of swarthy native Hawaiians, who played entirely
on guitars and other stringed instruments, their national
airs. Many of their selections were strange and weird, and
to others they sang sweet-sounding songs in their native
tongue, which no one understood, but which gave a pleas
ing effect to their music. This was a catchy innovation in
the musical program, which was enjoyed both by the dan
cers and the "wall flowers." The ball broke up at a late
hour and the party returned to their cars for the night.
We tumed out early Thursday morning, June 23d,
for we were to be the guests of the Santa Cruz Board of
Trade at breakfast at the "Big Trees" grove, five miles
distant from the city, up the mountain, on a narrow guage
railroad. As our party was so large, and the railroad did
124

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RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
not have enough cars to carry us all up at once, it was
arranged that half our number should go up by rail and
the others drive up in carriages, and exchange methods of
conveyance on the return trip. All the public conveyances
of the city and most of the private carriages were pressed
into use for the editors. The carriage contingent started
off amid the huzzas of their friends, a considerable length
of time in advance of the narrow guage train. The day
was bright and beautiful and the ocean was sending in
fresh salty breezes which were most exhilerating, causing
many of the boys to fish their overcoats out from under
neath the berths. The Pennsylvania delegation was for
tunate in being selected among the contingent to go up the
mountain by train. The morning was all that could be
desired for a mountain climb, even on the cars. The air
was fresh and clear, and the surrounding country, in all its
natural beauty, stood out with wonderful vividness. The
train was a long one and was hauled by two locomotives of
great power. The road, as it leaves the city, first passes
through the rich, cultivated fields, then come the vineyards,
with their vines burdened with rich and beautiful clusters
of grapes; then follow the foothills, and, last of all, looms
up the rugged mountain, with its deep gorges and rocky
chasms, with the turbulent and silvery brook singing as it
dashes down over the rocks and huge boulders to lose it
self in the deep and mighty ocean below. Everything
combines to make a picture of rare beauty and grandeur —
one which makes a lasting impression on the beholder.
As the train ascended the mountain, rushing every
few minutes tiirough a dark tunnel, the grade became
steeper and the gorges deeper and more picturesque. The
125

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
train sped from side to side of the deep chasms presenting
a new and entrancing view each minute. The greys and
bro-wns of the rocks, the blue of the sky and the greens of
trees, with the silvery gleams of the roaring brook, com
bined to make a picture of entrancing beauty.
In a short time it was noticed that the trees seemed to
grow larger and taller, and we realized that we were near
ing our destination. A little later the train halted and the
conductor called out for the "Big Trees." Out we tumbled
in short order, then stopped short, as we realized we were
in the presence of those mighty monarchs of the forest
of which we had heard so much from our youth up. The
trees are something like the fir or redwood, and are
an evergreen, with most of their branches near the tops of
their mighty trunks. This is the largest grove in the world
of the sequoia sempervirens tree, as the botanists classify
it. The Santa Cruz grove contains many thousands of these
trees, and has over one hundred of these giants — the largest
and tallest in the world — ranging from 30 to over 100 feet
in circumference, with a height of from 250 to 365 feet, the
tallest being over 5,000 years old. Could they but talk,
what wonderful stories they could relate. This grove is
also rich in historical interest, for it was here General John
C. Fremont made his headquarters in the early days of
Califomia's struggle for independence from Mexico.
In the winter of 1846, on his way from San Francisco
to Monterey, General Fremont, with his escort, camped in
the hollow of the tree which now bears his name. The
tree is 61 feet in circumference and 280 feet high. In this
tree, which is still living and green, there is a large hollow
into which over 50 of our party walked and stood at the
126

THE WAVE CAVE, SANTA CRUZ,

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
same time. In addition to the large hole, which serves as
a door. General Fremont had another hole cut higher up
for the escape of the smoke from their camp fire.
Here, it is interesting to relate, that locked up in the
vault of one of the banks of Redding, Califomia, is a flag
that is second in historic importance to Californians only to
the Bear flag that is jealously guarded by Pacific Coast
pioneers. The flag referred to is the one that General Fre
mont unfurled from the summit of the Rocky Mountains in
1841, when he and his small party were on their way to
Califomia, before the Mexican war. The banner is the
property of P. M. Reardon, managing director of the Bully
Bill mine at Delamar. It was given to him a few years
ago by Mrs, Fremont herself. It was made by her own
hands on the eve of her husband's path-finding expedition
to the West. The flag differs from the ordinary emblem
only in the field, on which is wrought a large American
eagle, done in embroidery of great delicacy and beauty.
About the eagle are clustered the 26 stars that in 1841 rep
resented the States in the Union, On the reverse side of
the flag is pinned a silk scarf bearing the inscription in
golden letters: "Rocky Mountains in 1841," The banner
is in a fairly good state of preservation, considering its age.
The principal trees have been named after some nation
al heros and great men. One of the ffrst named trees that
our party met was a stalwart monarch called Pennsylvania.
The boys were delighted, and gathering around that tree
gave hearty cheers for Pennsylvania, for the tree and for
home. There was no other tree in the grove bearing a
state name. A jolly scribe of our party from Illinois search
ed in vain to find a tree Christened after his native state.
127

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
Disgusted at his ill-luck, he took his visiting card and
pinned it to a baby sequoia sempervirens, then poetised in
the following strain:
You domed little runt, hold up your snoot;
Don't be so shy and cry;
I want you to root, and root, and root.
For the State of Illinois.
Get a move on quick, them climb and climb;
Don't be a minute late.
Or you will have one deuce of a time
In catching the Keystone State,
General Grant visited the grove in 1879, on his retum
home from his tour of the world, and a mighty giant 60
feet in circumference and 325 feet high now bears his name.
There are also trees named after Presidents Harrison, Mc-
Kinely and Roosevelt, all of whom have visited the grove.
The "President Harrison" is 65 feet in circumference, "Old
Glory" has a spread of 100 feet, "General Sherman" has a
girth of 65 feet, the "Giant" with a circumference of 65
feet and a height of 381 feet, was the lord of the forest;
"Jumbo" has a waist band of 52 feet and rears its head
290 feet in th air. Then there is the "driveway tree,"
with a circumference of 84 feet and a diameter of 28 feet,
through which has been cut a driveway, and a coach-and-
four can pass through with ease, stop the coach and horses
and be wholly within the tree.
Among the remarkable and curiously formed trees is
the "Cathedral," so named by Robert G, IngersoU on his
visit to the grove. The "Cathedral" has a solid tree base
(the largest in the world) of 110 feet circumference, from
which springs 22 trees, the tallest of which is nearly 300
128

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
feet. The "Young Men's Christian Association" tree is
another wonderful one, of similar growth to the "Cathe
dral," and is almost as large. These trees grow from the
roots of fallen trees, and from seeds no larger than mustard
seed. Mere figures and statements, however strong, will
fail to impress the reader with the grandeur and magni
tude of these wonderful monarchs of the forest. Their
great size and magnificence are beyond description, and
their ages run far beyond the earliest days of profane his
tory. The day of their birth was long before the days of
Adam and Eve in the Garden of Paradise. Such wonders
of the Almighty's creation must be seen side by side, face
to face, to be appreciated and understood.
After we had exhausted the wonders of this forest, we
were led to an adjacent part of the grove, where the Santa
Cruz Board of Trade and their beautiful and accomplished
young lady aids had spread large tables groaning under a
bountiful supply of meats, fruits, wines and all manner of
good things for our breakfast. The tables were prettily
decorated with beautiful and fragrant flowers in most gen
erous profusion. By this time every one had a keen appe
tite, sharpened by the mountain air and several hours of fast
ing, so it did not need a second invitation to get the hungry
editors to the tables, forget the war of words and start to
devour the good things which had been provided for the
"BuH's Head Breakfast." The graceful waiters were kept
on the wing to provide for their hungry guests, but with an
enormous supply of eatables and drinkables, every one was
filled and satisfied to the utmost hmit. This breakfast,
with its unique and romantic surroundings, the palatable
and bountiful supply of food, the fragrant flowers and
129

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
choice vintage, with the weird and sweet melodies rendered
by the Hawaiian orchestra, and the beautiful and graceful
waitresses, was a great success — an event that will linger
long in the memories of the participants.
The wines served at the sylvan breakfast were of the
most choice of California vintage, among which was the
famous Cresta Blanca brand.
The manufacture of red and white wines is one of
Califomia's greatest industries, and is carried on on a scale
of great magnitude, giving employment to thousands of
persons. The Califomia wines of all grades are fast be
coming famous the world over, and are in close competition
with the vintages of Germany, France and Italy; and by
many experts are thought to excel the wines of those coun
tries in both boquet and body.
In order to care for the large quantities of wine made
annually, the grape growers have built immense storage
tanks and curing cellars throughout the State. At St.
Helena is the largest surface stone wine cellcir in the world.
That mighty building is 300 feet long, 100 deep, four
stories high, with several tunnels extending far back into
hillside and has a capacity of 3,000,000 gallons.
At Asti, in Sonoma County, is what is claimed to be
the largest wine tank in the universe, containing 500,000
gallons ot wine, and is several hundred times larger than
the famous wine tank of Heidelberg Castle, Germany,
which was built to hold sufficient wine for a three months'
siege of that fortress. The Asti tank was built with con
crete walls two feet thick, hermetically sealed, and required
45 days and nights, with the work of 50 men and 25 teams
to build it. It required two steam pumps seven days to
130

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
pump the wine from that tank into smaUer tanks. After the
After the tank was emptied 200 ladies and gentlemen from
San Francisco, on invitation of the company, held a dance
in the tank — the first affair of the kind in history — and it
was said to have been a very great success.

THE BEACH SPEEDWAY, SANTA CRUZ.
At the conclusion of the repast it was near noon, and
the train soon started on the retum trip to Santa Cruz.
When we reached our special train a most pleasing sight
met our eyes. During our absence the ladies of Santa
Cruz had transformed each of our ten cars into a beautiful
bower of exquisite flowers. Each car was decorated with a
different flower — some had roses, some lilies, others carna
tions, verbenas, geraniums, poppies, marguerites and orange
blossoms. The Pennsylvania car was decorated with gar
lands of smilax and beautiful sweet peas of every imagina-
131

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
ble shade of color, and was by all odds the most beautiful
and unique of the train. Cheer after cheer was given for
the beautiful ladies and their beautiful flowers, and for the
Board of Trade, who had so handsomely entertained us,
and the editorial special pulled out of Santa Cruz at one
o'clock bound for San Francisco.

132

SOME FLOWER EMBOWERED HOMES, SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XIX.
THE NILE-LIKE VALLEYS — STANFORD UNIVERSITY —
SANTA CLARA MISSION — SAN JOSE.
AS the train sped northward from Santa Cruz it entered
one of the most fertile and richest valleys in the world;
a valley which, on account of the wealth and depth of its
soil, has been likened to the famous Valley of the Nile. On
all sides were large ranches whose fields were burdened
with most prolific crops, and orchard followed orchard in
quick succession, laden with their burdens of luscious fruit
of all kinds. Here and there were seen flower ranches of
matchless beauty. At one ranch sweet peas were raised in
great profusion, and for half a mile or more a field of these
beautiful flowers lined the track. These sweet peas were
the most beautiful we ever saw, being of every known shade
and color. Each shade or color was planted by itself in
long divisions about 50 feet wide, making the field look
like a mammoth floral flag. We longed to have the train
stop that we might alight and fill our arms with the beauti
ful blooms, but as the train was behind time we were not
permitted that pleasure.
As passed along, a considerable distance to the east of
us, was seen the famous Lick Observatory crowning the
summit of Mount Hamilton. There, at an altitude of 4,440
feet, the trustees of James Lick, an eccentric millionaire of
133

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE LICK OBSERVATORY, MT. HAMILTON.
San Francisco, erected that observatory at a cost of $700,-
000. At the time of its erection the telescope was the lar
gest and most famous in the world. Its lens was made by
Abram Clark and is three feet in diameter. The erection
of the telescope gave a new impetus to the study of astron
omy and by its aid many new stars and planets were dis
covered. From Mayfield station could be seen the magnificent
stmctures of the Leland Stanford Junior University, which
was erected a few years ago by Mr, and Mrs. Leland Stan
ford as a memorial to their son, and given a princely en
dowment of $30,000,000 and 100,000 acres of land.
This university has secured an international reputa
tion, and is the most richly endowed university in the
world. It is destined under its progressive management to
do great things. A short distance from Palo Alto, the
134

VIEWS OF SANTA CLARA VALLEY, NEAR SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

seat of the University, is the quaint old town of Santa
Clara, where are located the Santa Clara Mission and Col
lege, the oldest institution of leaming on the Pacific Coast.
This Mission was established by the vigorous Spanish
Padres in the year 1777. Here, growing in the old Mis
sion garden may be seen the olive and palm trees planted by
those faithful religious workers of long ago. The frescoes
and paintings, owing to the dryness of the climate, have
been preserved well nigh in their original beauty and fresh
ness. From the Mission to San Jose (pronounced Hosay )
are double lines of ancient willows, planted by the same
padres, to afford them shade while walking from their re
treat to the hacienda of San Jose. Our train made a very
short stop at San Jose, so that but littie of that interesting

THE ENTRANCE TO STANFORD UNIVERSITY, PALO ALTO.
135

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE COURT HOUSE AND HALL OF RECORDS, SAN JOSE
town was seen, but what little was seen was interesting and
pleasing. It is a model city, and has a fine system of elec
tric street railways, electric light, gas plant, sewers and the
purest water piped from the distant mountains to the city.
Its public buildings are models of municipal architecture,
and its large parks are places of beauty and pleasure. The
country surrounding San Jose is a great fruit producing
territory, and olives, prunes, apricots, pears and peaches
grow in great abundance and in great perfection. This
fruit is carefully packed and shipped in refrigerator cars to
supply the markets of the East, and even to England.
San Jose, 40 miles south of San Francisco, is a city
of about 40,000 people, built upon almost level, elevated
floor, 87 feet above sea. The 20 square miles of city are
beautiful, with broad avenues and shady walks. The city
is half enveloped and wholly adorned with a great wealth of
trees, shrubs and flowers, chiefly semi-tropic. San Jose is
the rose garden of the earth. At least 165 varieties make
136

SAINTE CLAIRE CLUB HOUSE, SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE CITY HALL PARK, SAN JOSE.
yards beautiful or climb up over the housetops. Trees
reach perfection. Palms, magnolias, oranges, peppers,
greviUeas, acacias, cypress, pines, eucalypti and other ever
green growths, intermingle with oaks, maples, sycamores,
elms, poplars, alder, willow, ash, etc.
In the center of this city of parks, lawns and gardens
is the business area, the handsomest and most impressive
series of business blocks in all the smaller cities of the
West. Blocks of stone and brick, two to six stories high,
line well-paved streets.
The public buildings include the finest postoffice the
Govemment owns. The county court house and hall of
records, the high school. State normal school, public library,
137

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

SOME BEAUTIFUL HOMES, SAN JOSE.
the city hall, are noteworthy. The public school buildings
of San Jose and immediate suburbs are valued at $500,000.
The hotels are fitting to what is fast becoming one of the
greatest resort city in Califomia.
The city's park system is comprehensive and beauti
ful. Almost in the heart of the city is St, James Park,
with a greater variety of trees than any other park in the
United States. The pride of San Jose, however, is the
city's Alum Rock Canyon Park, unequaled in the State.
This is a canyon playground of 1,000 acres, seven miles
east of town, in the Coast Mountains, reached by an elec
tric railway. Here are 16 mineral springs. The different
138

FAMOUS ALUM ROCK PARK, SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
waters are on exhibition in the Santa Clara County exhibit.
Agricultural Building. Through the park flows an ever-
living stream, lined with trees. The city has here fine
plunge and tub baths, restaurant, a deer paddock, aviary
and romantic walks and drives.
The Santa Clara Valley was settled by Franciscan friars
under Father Junipero Serra in 1777. Two of the Mis
sions, Santa Clara and San Jose, are within its limits. The
valley is a park, originally dotted with magnificent oaks.
North to south, within the county, it is 50 miles long,
with a maximum width at the north end of 25 miles. The
mountains eastward, the inner Coast Range, rise 4,000 feet.
Westward is the Coast Range, 4,000 feet high, and from

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HARVESTING THE ONION SEED, SANTA CLARA VALLEY.
139

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
its crest are visible, on one hand, the Pacific Ocean and on
the other the Santa Clara Valley, with its 10,000 homes
gleaming white amid the trees. Mountain streams cut little
ravines through the valley floor and glide into San Fran
cisco Bay, where the valley flares out into the salt water.
The Santa Clara Valley has a net-work of Southem
Pacific Railroad tracks, the city of San Jose radiating lines
of that company in seven directions — to Los Angeles, San
Francisco, Alameda, Oakland, Santa Cmz and the ocean
and two routes to New Amalden.
A native poetess of Califomia has sung of the State's
great natural wealth of soil and minerals in the following
well-balanced sonnet:
If you will delve beneath the sod.
Rich gifts you'll find, stored up by God,
In mountain cellars, hid from view.
When time was young and earth was new.
And flowing fortunes in our soil.
Are fountains, geysers, wells of oil.
Our myriad miles of golden grain
Ripple and wave like ocean's main.
And joyous here the bird that flies
'Neath ever-blue Italian skies.

140

SUNSET AT THE GOLDEN GATE, SAN FRANCISCO.

CHAPTER XX.
SAN FRANCISCO — THE QUEEN OF THE GOLDEN
GATE.
LEAVING San Jose the train moved rapidly through
the smaller towns, and in a few hours we were in sight
of the city of the Golden Gate — San Francisco. A few
minutes later the train rolled into the great shed at the depot.
We alighted to find ourselves, at last, in the city of our
dreams, and the place of so many golden stories.
Special trolley cars were waiting to carry the entire
party to the magnificent Hotel St. Francis, where arrange
ments had been made to entertain all of us during our stay
in the city, and where we were comfortably and safely
housed. It was with feelings of awe and wonder that many
of us saw the golden sun sink to its rest that night beneath
the rippling waves of the Pacific Ocean. A few weeks
before we had seen the same sun arise in all its glory from
the briny waters of the Atlantic, and now we saw it vanish
from our view into the bosom of the Pacific, seemingly lost
forever. San Francisco, the most wonderful and powerful city
on the Pacific Coast, took its name from a modest, but
valiant man — St. Francis D'Asis, the founder of the order
of Franciscan monks, whose Spanish name was San Fran
cisco. He was an intense lover of nature, and a poet of
141

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE HOTEL ST. FRANCIS.
rare ability. It was from him the Italian poet Dante is
said to have received much of his inspiration, and when the
town was founded in its beautiful surroundings the old
monk's followers very appropriately christened it with their
master's name.
Here it was that the advance guard of those brave
brown-coweled, befrocked, engirdled and sandal-shod Span
ish padres, who had joumeyed along the El Camino Real
(the King's Highway) carrying their crucifixes and bear
ing the banner of Missions, halted on October 9th, 1776,
and founded the Mission of de Los Dolores de Nuestra Pa
dre San Francisco de Asis, in memory of the sorrows of the
142

THE DOLORES MISSION, SAN FRANCISCO, FOUNDED 1796,

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
sainted founder of their order. The Mission, with its red-
tiled roof, its massive walls, its thong-tied rafters and
beams, was carefully and strongly built, and still stands in
a state of remarkable preservation, considering its age of
more than 130 years. In time this structure came to be
called the Mission Dolores, and so it is kown to this day.
The romance of its foundation still clings about it, but its
service is discontinued; the officiating friars are dead, its
campo sanato has fallen into neglect, and weeds and briars
have taken the places of the beautiful flowers. Near by
stands a magnificent cathedral of lordly proportions, entire
ly overshadowing this pathetic relic of the noble and heroic
past. Those monks are entitled to a large mede of praise,
for it was their bravery and daring that opened up all that
glorious country for future generations. Alone and unaid
ed they penetrated the wilderness, preceding civilization
and blazing the trail for future settlers. By their kind and
gentle conduct they won the confidence and made fast
friends of the aborigines. For their sakes the Indians look
ed with kindness and fearlessness upon the advent of their
pale-face brethren. A little more than 50 years ago San
Francisco was little more than a sandhill settlement. To
day she stands as a magnificent queen within the Golden
Gate, with well nigh 500,000 devout partizans surrounding
her throne. Of her Brete Harte said:
Serene, indifferent to her fate,
Thou sittest at the Westem Gate.
Since these words were penned, the Queen has waved
her sceptre, wonderful changes have been wrought, and San
143

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE LOBBY, HOTEL ST. FRANCIS.
Francisco has become the metropolis of the west — metro
politan in its character, with representatives of all the na
tions of the world within its doors. In its harbors fly the
flags of all nations, and from its docks sail ships to the
islands of the sea and the uttermost parts of the earth, bear
ing burdens of precious lives and the produce of the world.
The situation of San Francisco is beautiful and ideal. On
one side are the waves of the limitless and beautiful Pacific
Ocean; on the other the extensive waters of the land-locked
San Francisco Bay, the greatest and safest harbor in the
world, where could be sheltered at one time the war fleets
of the entire world safe and secure from their foes. The
bay, with its dark blue waters dotted with islands, with
144

THE JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, GOLDEN GATE PARK.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
green, wooded and undulating shores, make a uilique and
beautiful setting for the gem — the City of the Golden Gate.
Here is a beauty, unique in its character, that has no exact
duplicate in the world. Barring aged ruins and historical
castles, it far surpasses anything contained in what we are
pleased to call the Old World.
Of this gem of the Pacific Coast that noted English
writer, James Bryce has said:
"Few cities in the world can vie with San Francisco,
either in the beauty or in the natural advantages of her sit
uation. Indeed, there are only two places in Europe —
Constantinople and Gibralter — that combine an equally
perfect landscape, with what may be called an equally im
perial position. Before you there is a magnificent bay,
with its far-reaching arms and rocky isles, and beyond the
faint line of the Sierra Nevada Mountains cutting the clear
air like mother-of-pearl; between the mountains through
which ships bear in commerce from the furthest shores of
the Pacific; to the right, valleys rich with com and wine,
sweeping away to the southem horizon. The city itself is
full of bald hills, rising steeply from the deep water. The
air is keen, dry and bright, like the air of Greece, and the
waters not less blue. Perhaps it is the air and light, re
calling the cities of the Mediterranean, that make one in
voluntarily look up to the tops of these hills for the feudal
castle, or the ruins of the Acropolis, which one thinks must
crown them."
It has been said that nowhere else will you see, at
one time, so many tall ships as here come from around the
Horn, from China, from Sidney, from the Indies, but marked
amid that crowd of deep-sea giants is another class of craft —
145

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE LIBRARY, HOTEL ST. FRANCIS.
the island schooner, low in the water, with lofty spars and
dainty lines, rigged and fashioned like a yacht, manned
with brown-skinned, soft-spoken, sweet-eyed native sailors,
and equipped with their great double-ender boats that tell
the tale of boisterous sea beaches.
The honor of discovering San Francisco Bay fell to
tiie lot of Gaspar de Portola, on November 7th, 1769. It,
however, remained for the gallant and valiant Lieutenant
Juan de Ayala, in August, 1775, to sail through the Golden
Gate into that perfect land-locked harbor of San Francisco
Bay, spread its fame to the world and raake it the pride of
navigators from tiiat day henceforth. The magnitude of
146

THE ITALIAN QUARTER — MAKE THEIR OWN CLARET^
SAN FRANCISCO.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
the bay may be understood when we tell that it is 40 miles
long and 6 miles across. The entrance to the bay is
through the Golden Gate, a rocky, cliff -lined strait, 5 miles
long and a mile wide in its narrowest part.
The United States, recognizing the value of San Fran
cisco Bay, and the importance of the Golden Gate strait,
have, at great expense, fortified it with the most modern
ordinance, making it the best defended harbor entrance in
the Nation. On the bay are located the Mare Island navy
yard and the Union Iron Works, where Uncle Sam's finest
cmisers are built and repaired. It was at the Union Iron
Works that the cruiser Oregon was built, which, with Cap
tain Clark in command, made such a fast run from San
Francisco around Cape Hom, and arrived off the coast of
Cuba in time to win fame and aid Admiral Schley in
sending Admiral Cervera's Spanish fleet to Davy Jones'
locker during the late Spanish-American war.
There, at the edge of the bay stands the Presidio,
Uncle Sam's crack military post of the Pacific Coast. Here
is always quartered a large garrison of foot soldiers and
artillery, and since we have owned the Phillipine Islands it
has become the out-fitting post for that field of service.
Clustering around San Francisco Bay like beautiful
gems in the queen's crown, are the pretty towns of Oakland,
Alameda, San Rafael, Belvedere, Sausalito, San Mateo and
others, giving the business men of San Francisco all the
delights of suburban residence, with quick and frequent
ferry and train service to the city.
The population of San Francisco, like every other
metropolitan city, is very cosmopolitan in its character.
Here are found some of all nations, and, after the Ameri-
147

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
cans in the largest number, come the Asiatics, there being
about 40,000 Chinamen in the city. It is estimated that
there are also over 10,000 Japanese in the city. The ma
jority of the Chinese are house-servants, though they are
found in all trades and professions, except that of lawyers.
They also conduct large wholesale and retail dry goods
stores. They publish two highly creditable daily newspa
pers in their own languape. The Chinese dwell in a sepa
rate section of the city called Chinato'wn.
San Francisco has among its population many million
aires, among whom are the Stanfords, Hopkinses, Crockers,
Spreckles and others. Their magnificent and stately pal
aces crown the summit of that portion of the city called
Nob's Hill. There are but few of the very poor within the
city limits, for there is plenty of work for all who desire to
labor, and none need go hungry or shelterless. The city
has many large and diversified manufactories, making al
most anything from a cracker at 10 cents a pound to a power
ful and death-dealing man-of-war costing several million
dollars. The manufactures of San Francisco last year ran
near $100,000,000. The stores are large and fine, and the
line of goods as choice and extensive as can be found in
any eastern emporium. The store buildings are high, mas
sive and of imposing appearance, built of stone, brick and
steel. The bank clearances of San Francisco last year
amounted well on to the great sum of $2,000,000,000,
The streets are wide; clean, finely paved, well lighted
and well policed. The street car lines are among the finest
in the world, and their equipment and operation by electric
ity and cables are models of excellence. Through the
streets and up and down the steep hills the trolleys and ca-
148

THE ORIENTIAL STREET VENDERS, CHINATOWN,

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
bles run with an ease, evenness and precision that might
well be copied in the East, You can go all over the city
by means of the admirable system of exchanges for the ex
penditure of a single nickel. The five-cent-fare might well
be adopted by many railways in the East to the satisfaction
of the people.
San Francisco is distinctly a city of homes, but there
are many eastern-like apartment flats, where many families
live, do light-housekeeping and dine out in' the most ad
mirable system of restaurants scattered throughout the city.
The people can live there as comfortably and as cheaply as
in any other part of our great country.
The city has one of the greatest parks in the world,
called the Golden Gate Park. It is truly beautiful and ex
tensive, being three and one-half miles long. Within its
borders are 1,013 acres valued at $15,000,000. It is a
wonderful pleasure ground of beautiful flowers, majestic
trees, rare shrubs, green and rolhng la'wns, broad drives,
winding walks and various opportunities for recreation of all
sorts. With the aid of nature, the billowy waters and
skilled landscape artists, the city has formed and fashioned
a park of wonderous beauty. In addition to the Golden
Gate Park, there is grand private park which has become
as famous as San Francisco herself; that is Sutro Park,
where the Cliff House is located. This unique and beauti
ful park was projected, planned and planted by an eccentric
millionaire, Adolph Sutro. The park is filled with rare
botanical specimens and adorned with the most beautiful
and charming tropical flowers, plants and trees, while scat
tered through the grounds are fine statues of all the graceful
goddesses and gods kno'wn to Greek and Roman mythol-
149

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE CLIFF HOUSE AND BATHING BEACH.
Ogy. This park, with all its beauty of form, arrangement
and color, has been thro-wn open by its o-wners to the free
inspection of the public. It is situated on Sutro Heights,
just outside the city limits, on a large and imposing rocky
cliff overlooking the blue waters of the Pacific Ocean,
which beat with an angry roar against the rocks at its base.
Just outside the park limits, on the highest rock, overlook
ing the turbulent waves, is built the Cliff House, famous
the world over, where the city people gather for a social
outing and the baths. Adjoining the Cliff House are the
celebrated Sutro Baths, which are well worth a visit, for
they are the largest and most magnificent in the world, and
are planned with an eye to beauty and utility. They far
surpass in both beauty and size the famous and sumptuous
150

STRANGE CRAFT OF ALL NATIONS ARE SEEN IN
SAN FRANCISCO BAY.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
marble baths of Caracalla, of Diocletian and of Titus,
whose ruins in Rome continue to excite the wonder and
admiration of the civilized world. Here are hot and cold
baths, tub and plunge baths. In the Sutro Baths are sev
eral bathing tanks varying in size from the smallest to the
large magnificent swimming pool, with accommodations for
2,000 swimmers, and all are filled with constantly changing
heated sea water. There is also surf bathing in the summer.
Out in the ocean, a short distance from the beach,
three immense, formidable and mgged rocks, called the
Seal Rocks, rise sheer out of the ocean waves. Here on
bright days hundreds of seals, "bulls" and "cows" and
their young, can be seen, either sporting in the waves or
lazily sunning themselves on the sides of the rocks. A
visit to San Francisco would be incomplete unless one had
seen the Seal Rocks and the seals and sealets.
Everywhere that one tums in the city there is some
thing to please and admire. The beauty, strength and
activity of the city are seen on every side. With the num
erous steamship lines sailing out to all the principal ports of
the world, and many trans-continental steam railroad lines
reaching her doors from the east, San Frjincisco can easily
maintain her supremacy as a first-class sea port. Of the
trans-continental lines reaching the city, the chief and most
important are the Southem Pacific, the Central Pacific and
the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe routes. An idea of
the wealth of the city may be gained from the fact that the
assessed valuation of her property closely approximates
$500,000,000, and the real value is placed by some at
three times these figures. San Francisco has more million
aires in accordance with her population than any other city
151

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
in our country. The city is full of clubs. It has its ex
clusive Union League, its Merchants' Club, University,
San Francisco, Lawyers' Club, Cosmos, Art Club, Bohem
ian, Olympic and Concordia, suiting all tastes an inchnations.
The social and religious side of San Francisco is on a par
with the other great cities of the country, and here are
churches of all denominations, even including a place of
worship for the Buddist and Joss Houses for the heathen
Chinese. There are five daily newspapers printed in the
English language, viz: The Examiner, Call, Post, Chron
ical and Bulletin. There are 12 first-class theatres, nine
public libraries and five museums — the Academy of Scien
ces, the State Mining Bureau, the State Board of Trade, the
Pacific Commercial Museum and the Alaska Museum.
Here are many fine opportunities for the wide-awake and
alert citizen, male and female, to make fortunes if their en
ergy and industry are rightly applied. The city, in the
number and size of its palatial hotels and fine restaurants,
is not excelled by any city in the East. There are hund
reds of first-class restaurants of all kinds scattered through
out the city, to suit all peoples. There are the American,
English, Italian, French, German, Mexican, Austrian,
Swiss, Swedish, Russian, Japanese and Chinese. You
can take your choice and dine cheaply, or you can go to
the sweU cafe and spend just as much as you desire.
Among the most potent factors in promoting and ad
vancing tiie city's interest and substantial progress is the
Califomia Promotion Committee of San Francisco. This
committee is composed of well-known, able and public
spirited citizens, who give their services gratuitously. At
their head stands Andrea Sharboro, tiie chairman, a man of
152

THE SENTINEL OF THE TONG — HIGHBINDERS,
CHINATOWN, SAN FRANCISCO.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
wide experience and liberal views. The efforts of this com
mittee are supplemented and ably seconded by the Cham
ber of Commerce and kindred organizations of the city.
This Promotion Committee and members of the Chamber
of Commerce were very zealous and affable in looking after
our interests while in the city.
The special trolley cars quickly transferred us from
the Southem Pacific depot to the new and magnificent
Hotel St. Francis on Union Square, which was to be our
headquarters during our sojourn in the city. On reaching
the St, Francis we found that we had been assigned rooms
in advance of our arrival, and all we had to do was to take
our key and ascend by one of the elevators to our regal
apartments. In a few minutes we were all agreeably and
comfortably located, and more than pleased with our hand
some surroundings and reasonable rates. Each room has
its private bath and toilet, steam heat, electric lights, elec
tric reading lamps at the bed-side and private long-distance
telephone, with all the seclusion of a private boudoir.
The Hotel St. Francis is one of the most imposing
and palatial hotels on the Pacific Coast, affording all the
comforts that the most fastidious taste could desire. It is a
building 12 stories high, combining strength, beauty and
safety in its entire construction. It stands on the sloping
side of Nobs Hill overlooking the beautiful tropical garden
of Union Square Park. Every room is an outside room,
and from every window may be had an incomparable pano
ramic view of bay, mountains and rolling hills. This hotel
was erected at an expense of $5,000,000, and the best of
everything and the latest improvements were used in its
construction. It was opened March 24th, 1904, and at
153

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
once leaped to the front ranks of the city's palatial hotels.
In the great white and gold concert room of the hotel are
held the most select musical soirees of the city. The most
interesting literary and art saloons of the Pacific Coast are
held in the Sequoia Club rooms of the hotel. Everytiiing
is planned for the comfort and pleasure of the guests.
There is the beautiful principal dining room done in the
French style, with the sides of the room lined with majestic
columns done in white and gold. The quaint Dutch Rath
skeller and the Tyrolean grill room, with its rich colorings,
attracts and pleases the patrons of light lunches, or after-
theatre parties. The ball room, with its high ceiling and
lofty columns, is a place of imperial grandeur. The feel
ing of luxurious comfort pervades the entire hotel; all the
corners are smooth, and there are no noises to jar the
nerves. Valets, maids, barbers, bell boys and "boots" are
all on the alert to attend the wants of the guests in their
'rooms. If you are studiously inclined, you can walk into
the handsomely and richly fumished hotel library, on the
first floor, and find there 4,000 volumes of fiction and sci
ence from which to choose your reading. The cold storage
plant, the grocery, the butcher shop, the kitchen and bak
ery are all on a mammoth scale, and so arranged as to fill
the tables with the richest and choicest dainties to please
the appetite of the most exacting epicure. The hotel, with
all its luxurious appointments, beautiful location and most
excellent cuisine, leaves nothing to be desired; all is joy,
peace, comfort and satisfaction within its doors — if you
have the price.

154

THE PLAYFUL SEALS ON THE FAMOUS SEAL ROCKS,
CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO.

CHAPTER XXL

CHINATOWN — THE BARBARIC — MYSTIC AND WONDROUS.
AFTER taking our dinner that Friday evening, June
23d, at the Hotel St, Francis, we found awaiting us in
the hotel lobby a number of the city police in citizen's
been detailed

clothes, who had
through the kind
or and chief-of-
all the sights and
quaint and Orien
city — Chinato w n
party was divided
20, and each
liceman as guide,
plore the haunts
ental, many

TYPICAL CHINESE
CHILDREN.

ness of the may-
pohce, to show us
mysteries of that
tal part of the
by gas-light. Our
up into squads of
headed by a po-
sallied forth to ex-
of the wily Ori-
expecting to see

gruesome sights, but they saw them not, for the excellent
police supervision, aided by the Highbinders, had closed
and blotted out those most noisome sights which of yore
had flourished and festered in the Chinese quarters.
Chinatown with its some 50,000 Mongolians is crowd
ed into an area of about 20 city squares. The "Chinks,"
as the Chinamen are called, are closely packed into their
quarters like sardines in a box. In some of the large tene
ments there are often from four to five floors densely crowd
ed, above the ground, and three to four stories under the
155

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

)iK'

THE OPIUM DEN AND ITS VICTIM.
ground. In some of the small rooms there are packed as
many as 30 or 40 individuals, who sleep on hard, narrow
board shelves, or bunks, placed one above another, like
shelves in a store. The Chinese, notwithstanding such
crowding and close quarters, is, as a rule, quiet, orderly,
friendly and peaceful. Yet there is much genuine 'wicked
ness and depravity hidden in the innermost recesses of the
"Quarter," and much opium is smoked by its enchanted
victims, but it is not done openly. It is asserted that many
of the wealthy Chinese merchants not only have a wife in
China, but also maintains one or two American wives in
luxury in Chinatown, who have damned their souls and en
tered into voluntary slavery out of love of the extatic intox
ication of that alluring and baleful dmg — opium.
In a moment we seemed to have been instantly trans
ported bodily and set down suddenly in a picturesque corner
of the Orient. The dim, soft, quavering light shimmering
156

THE LIFE OF EASE, MEXICAN QUARTER, SAN FRANCISCO.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
from the many-colored and queer-shaped lanterns, the gro
tesque signs, with their spider-like hieroglyphics, the quaint
and flitting forms, with their flowing costumes, the clatter
ing of the sandaled feet, their dark almond-shaped eyes, all
tended to increase the feeling of strangeness, mystery and
the foreign air of it all, and make one fairly believe that he
is in the native haunts of the Celestial,
We penetrated dark and narrow streets and saw
thousands of Chinese, young and old, at peaceful occupa
tions — barbers, shoemakers, groceries, meat markets, cabi
net makers, apothecaries, laundries, dry goods stores filled
with trinkets, curios, gold and silver work and rich Orien
tal goods, displayed by affable, smiling, almond-eyed
clerks. On every side was a continual chatter, and in the
Chinese tongue, of which we understood not a word. We
looked into all kinds of shops and houses, and in some of
the shops we saw gathered the proprietors, clerks and their
friends playing the national game of fan-tan, the winners
and loosers alike very sober and intent on the game.
On one of the by streets we saw a high-caste lady
dressed in rich silks tottering along on her bound and com
pressed little feet. They were bound so tightly and cruelly
that they were not more than an inch and a half long. The
wonder was that she could move along at all. Following
this lady were two little children who looked for all the
world like over-grown Chinese dolls. Some of us entered a
Chinese theatre at the price of two bits per head to see the
play. The Chinese theatre has the longest plays in the
world. Sometimes the play will start at noon and proceed
all through the following night without intermission. To
157

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

us it seemed a burlesque. The actors, in their quaint and
curious costumes and grotesque make-up, uttered loud cries
that seemed without humor or pathos — then the orchestra
creating a din with their tom-toms,
I'ffi making a hideous noise, devoid of
either time, harmony or melody —
served only to make us laugh at
the grotesqueness of the whole af
fair. The attempts at scenic effect
were exceedingly crude. A bowl of
water represented the ocean, and a
i| ,,,^ dwarf tree in a flower-pot symbol
ized a forest. We soon left the
theatre, thinking our fifty cents
dearly spent, yet the Chinese spec-
STAR ACTOR, CHINESE tators seemed highly pleased and
THEATRE. elated over the performance.
A barber shop in full operation attracted our attention
and afforded much amusement. The victim of the tonsor-
ial artist squats on the floor, holding in his hands, in front
of him, a china basin containing the lather and hot water,
while the barber copiously lathers the victim's face, head,
ears and neck. The head and face are then scraped until
they are as smooth as a billiard ball. The barber completes
the operation by cleaning out the ears, eye-lids and eyes,
straightens the eye-brows and bmshes and oils the quene —
an operation requiring skill and patience on the part of the
operator, and endurance on the part of the victim.
There are a number of fine joss houses, or Chinese
temples, in Chinatown. Each band, or "company," as the
Chinese societies are called, have their own particular gods
158

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

and joss houses. We visited one of the finest of these, which
was richly fumished with carved woods and ivories and

A STREET OF RESIDENCES, CHINATOWN.
159

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
was mled over by the fiercest-looking and most hideous
idol gods we had ever seen. Ugliness seems to be more
attractive than beauty in the Chinese gods. Here we
found several venerable, wizen-faced priests, or attendants,
who seemed think their chief duty was to sell us small
bunches of heathen incense sticks at 75 cents a bunch, cmd
grew quite angry and vociferous when we declined to in
vest in aromatic punk for the benefit of the god and his
humble servitor. We left the temple with the priest's
threats, which we understood not, thundering in our ears.
The office of a real live Chinese daily newspaper, a
few houses further on, attracted our attention, and we in
spected the Oriental print shop and its contents, parting
with a nickle apiece for a copy of the unique paper. We
could see that it was giving all the news of the Russo-Jap
anese war, but just what it said was
beyond us. We sought out the
most elaborately fumished tea house,
or Chinese restaurant, and entered,
drank strong tea, eat rice cakes,
swallowed rich preserves and sick-
eningly sweet confections, and tried
1-^^/ i'W-%Wf'^^\ ^iiskillfuUy to use chop-sticks, in
stead of knives and forks. We sat
at a richly hand-carved teak-wood
table, having a beautiful mosaic
THE BELLE OF CHINA-j^^^^jg jop_ -pj^g^^ ^^ investigated
TOWN. t];jg mysteries of the Chinese kitch
en and felt worse for the investigation. We visited a large
wholesale and retail store farther up the street, said to be
owned and operated by the richest Chinese merchant in the
160

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
world. We can readily believe that assertion, for the shop
was filled with rare and rich curios and beautiful, magnifi
cent silks and satins, but the prices were away up in the air,
yet many of the ladies bought the dainty wares.
Thus we saw Chinatown, and found not a single opium
den or other evil place open. If they existed they had
shmnken into their shells and were hidden away. Soon we
retumed to the hotel to retire and rest for the morrow.
The Chinaman has many strange and curious customs
which it would ill become the Christian to adopt. Yet the
Heathen Chinese has one practice that puts many another
nation to shame. It is this — before the Chinese New Year
dawns, and the "Chink" commences the noisy, hilarious
celebration of it, he must, and does, pay off all his old
debts. It is considered an everlasting disgrace for him to
enter the New Year with debts on his back. The Chinese
end the old year with all manner of uproarious noises, beat
ing of gongs and other unmusical instruments, with fire
works of all kinds, and with buming the Devil in effigy.
The burial of a Chinaman is a ceremonious and solemn
affair. As the funeral cortege proceeds to the cemetery,
with the beating of tom-toms, with the weeping of the hired
mourners, and with numerous and costly gifts, innumerable
pieces of brightly colored paper, in which thousands of holes
have been punched, are strewn along the way. This
strewing of paper along the route is to protect the soul of
the departed Celestial, for the Devil has to pass through
every one of the holes in the bits of paper, and before he
can accomplish that feat the soul of the Chinaman is so far
ahead in the race that he never is caught, and reaches the
"Realms of the Blest" in safety. On the Chinaman's grave
161

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
are placed aU manner of confections, cakes sweet-meats and
cooked meats for tiie sustenance of the Chinaman's soul
while it travels Heavenward. Botii the Chinese and Jap
anese make it part of their religion to honor their departed
ancestors, which they do by offering prayers at tiie joss
house, or temple, and by placing gifts on the graves of the
departed. The great mystery to the Caucasian is what be
comes of these gifts left in the place of burial? They dis
appear after a time, but certainly the spirits do not take
them or eat them.
As all days in San Francisco are days of sunshine,
the next day da-wned bright and fair, and our party started
early on special trolley cars provided by the Chamber of
Commerce to see all the sights of the city. The cars
started from the business section of the city, and from there
passed on to the residence section, where we saw the hand
some and comfortable homes of the well-to-do people, and
gazed with wonder and admiration on the gorgeous palaces
of the wealthy. From the high hills we were afforded
beautiful views of the city and charming vistas of the bay
and the Golden Gate. One innocent damsel from the Mid
dle West, to the amusement of her chums, asked the guide
to point out the Golden Gate, "for," said she, "I cannot see
any gate. I can only see large bare rocks." To her the
whole thing was a disappointment, for the little innocent
expected to see an actual shiny gate of gold, hinges and all,
with the latch-string hanging out. Several hours were con
sumed in touring the city, viewing the houses, inspecting
the missions and seeing the stately churches, cathedrals and
synagogues, when we retumed to the hotel in time for
lunch. 162

CHAPTER xxn.
OAKLAND — MOUNT TAMALPAIS — THE CROOKEDEST RAIL
ROAD IN THE WORLD.
THE aftemoon was taken up with excursions to the
near-by suburbs of the city. The first and principal
one was Oakland, six miles across the San Francisco Bay.
To the surprise of many of our party Oakland was found to
be a first-class city, covering 18 square miles, with fine
municipal improvements and excellent trolley car service.
A number of trans-continental railroads terminate here and
the passengers and freight transferred to San Francisco in
ferry boats, Oakland has 15 miles of water frontage, upon
which are located large iron and steel works, ship yards,
lumber yards, coal bunkers, cotton mills, potteries, tanner
ies, magnesite works, borax and oil refineries. The popu
lation is about 110,000, and is filled with attractive and
beautiful residences standing far back on pretty, well-kept
lawns, adomed with sweet flowers and handsome shrubbery.
Many San Francisco business men have their homes in
Oakland. As a proof that the place is growing rapidly the
Board of Trade pointed to the fact that 1,571 new residen
ces were erected there last year.
Another suburb hurriedly visited was Berkley, where
is situated the magnificent University of California. This
university has the most famous ampitheatre in the world.
163

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

It is a natural hollow in the
mountain, surrounded with mas-
rive circles of seats, tier above
tier, made out of concrete, with
a seating capacity of 8,000 peo
ple. The speaker's rostrum is
in the centre, and the speaker's
voice can be easily and distinct
ly heard in any portion of that
vast circus. Here it was that
President Roosevelt delivered
an eloquent and famous com
mencement address. May 14th,
1903. The University of Cal
ifomia has taken high rank
among the educational institu
tions of the country. It has an
endowment of about $15,000,-
000. Its yearly income is about
$500,000, thus making it inde
pendent of tuition fees for its
success. The professors are the
finest and ablest that can be
had in this country, and the
student body are as fine speci
mens of brawn, muscle and
brains as can be found in the
length and breadth of the land.
In the afternoon we took a short
trip out from San Francisco,
which proved to be one of the
164

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
most beautiful and pleasant of the entire tour. A small
party of us took a mammoth ferry boat from its pier and
enjoyed a delightful run down the bay, sailing close to the
wharves and giant ships and foreign feluccas, passing the
pretty islands of Alcatraz and Angel, to Sausalito on the
northern side of San Francisco Bay. At Sausalito we
entered the cars of the North Shore Railroad and passed
along Richardson's Bay ( an arm of San Francisco Bay )
some six miles to Mill Valley, the situation of which is so
picturesque and charming that it has been christened the
Switzerland of America, Mill Valley is situated at the
foot of Mt, Tamalpais, the most romantic and picturesque
mountain in Califomia. Long before the days of the Cali
fornia gold excitement the northern part of the State, and
especially in the neighborhood of this peak, was possessed
and occupied by a powerful Indian tribe called the Tamals,
and from their name and the word pais, meaning country,
the mountain took its name.
At Mill Valley we found awaiting us four cars and a
powerful mountain-climbing engine to take us to the sum
mit of the mountain. This railroad up the mountain was
built in 1896, and is a standard broad gauge railroad, with
steam oil burning locomotives of a powerful and special
type. It is not a cog-wheel road, and, strange to say, has
no steep inclines. The grade is gradual, averaging 5 feet
to the 100. The road is known as "The Crookedest Rail
road in the World," and it fully justifies the name, as with
in its 8 1-5 miles there are 281 curves, which if they were
continuous would make 42 complete circles. The longest
piece of straight track is 413 feet, and that occurs in that
part of the line where the road makes a complete double
165

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

bow-knot. At one point of the road, on tiie ascent, you can
see five dififerent pieces of the road lying like steps in the
mountain below you.
The top of the peak is about 2,600 feet above tiie
level of the bay, but the ascent is so gradual tiiat you do
not fully appreciate the
height and there is nothing
alarming or terrifying in
the ride. We seated our
selves in the open observa
tion cars prepared to enjoy
what proved to be a most
glorious and exhilerating —
nay, entrancing ride. A pre
hminary toot of the locomo
tive whistle and a wave of
the hand of the conductor
and we were off on our trip
up toward the sky. Immed-
THE DOUBLE BOW-KNOT, MT. iately after leaving MiU Val-
TAMALPAIS RAILROAD. ley the road enters a forest
of our old friends, the majestic redwood, for which Califomia
is so famous. Then we wind through the beautiful and
romantic canyon of Blithedale, along its ever-flowing and
warbling creek, past numerous suburban homes, with their
picturesque ponds and lakes. Marsh's Japanese Village and
its quaint houses, continually ascending higher. Crossing
the head of that canyon the road swings back gradually
rising until there are no trees to obstruct the view, except
where wooded canyons are crossed, filled with redwoods,
medronas, oaks and laurels, lending a pleasant variety to
166

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
the trip and preparing for the next outburst of the pano
rama a on a broader scale. Curving through the canyons,
looking down their precipitous sides, the road crosses over
Silver Gulch, through McKinley Cut, around Summit Av
enue, into Mill VaUey Canyon, the vast panorama expand
ing every minute as the Bay of San Francisco opens out.
Mt, Diablo in the east slowly pushes its great bulk above
the Coast Range, As we slowly approach the summit of
Mt, Tamalpais the scene becomes more beautiful, and such
a vast panorama of the greatest grandeur and beauty is
unfolded before us as beggars the powers of description to
fully and adequately paint it in words. At the foot of the
mountain stretches out a silvery sheet, the waters of San
Francisco Bay, Off to the west you see the famous Gold
en Gate, and reaching from the Golden Gate away to the
distant horizon are the billows of the Pacific Ocean painted
bright by the golden rays of the setting sun. In the far
distance are seen San Francisco, the Cliff House, Oakland,
Alameda, Berkley, Mt. Diablo, Point Richmond, Mill Val
ley, Belvedere and other places.
It is a magnificently beautiful picture that far surpasses
any view we have ever seen, either in this country or
abroad, and one that will long remain impressed on the
tablets of our memory. At the top of the peak is the
Tavern of Tamalpais which has very fine accommodations
for tourists desiring to make a sojoum there. A number
of Alpine Clubs of young men and women have been formed
in San Francisco, who climb the sides of the mountain by
moonlight and rerrfain to see the sun rise from that vantage
point. The railroad company has also adopted a unique
way of taking advantage of the beauties of the sun rise. A
167

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

car is started down the road from the summit, just before
sun rise, by gravity, and the passengers have all the pleas
ure of the beauty of the dawning hours and the excitement
of an untrammeled ride. We left the summit of Tamalpais
at dusk and retumed to the
Hotel St. Francis for our even
ing dinner. The evening was
spent in ths pleasures of a
theatre party, seeing the city
by gas light, and an after-
theatre supper. The next
day was Sunday and the
moming was spent in various
devotional ways, as best suit-
each individual conscience.
San Francisco has a club
which is unique in many ways.
It is the Bohemian Club —
Bohemians of the Bohemians.
Among their customs is one
rare delight and pleasure,
which many an outsider of
social and artistic taste would fain enjoy. On the Saturday
nearest the August full moon, every year, the club, with its
few invited guests repair to the wonderful and mysterious
grove of Big Trees a few miles from the northern shore of
San Francisco Bay, Here they remain for a fortnight en
camped, celebrating thefr unique feast of the Midsummer
High Jinks, The monarchs of the forest, with their rug
ged and hoary sides, stand close together like brothers lift
ing their green-crowned heads high up into the skies, check-
168

HIGH-CURVE TRESTLE, MT.
TAMALPAIS RAILWAY.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
ing, sifting, mellowing the golden beams as they fall earth
ward, making it always a dim and religious twilight in the
grove, giving everything a romantic glow. The life there,
as the days roll by, is full of joy, pleasure, poetry, romance
and adventure, in which some say that not infrequently the
active little god, Cupid, plays an important part. At the
ending comes the High Jinks, over which the composer,
poet, costumer and actors have toiled and struggled for
many months. Once this performance was comparatively
simple. Now it is usually a drama — or rather, perhaps, a
masque — 'written in verse by one of the club poets and set
to orchestral music. Two conventionalities govem it — the
enactors must be woodland folk; the theme must tum on
the restoration of good fellowship through the death of Care.
Great nights they are, those of the Jinks. No one pretends
to go to bed. After the buming of the statue of Care,
everybody goes first to supper and hears much untrammel
ed westem oratory. Then, in a side canyon, or about the
camp fire, the club comedians present the "Low Jinks,"
usuaUy a burlesque on the High. And around the camp
fire the members and guests keep going all night, and fin
ish at dawn with a dip in the river.

169

CHAPTER xxm.
THE STRAITS OF CARNEQUINEZ— THE LARGEST FERRY
BOAT IN THE WORLD — SACRAMENTO — THE CAPITAL.
AT two o'clock Sunday afternoon, after a continual
round of pleasure and generous hosptitality at the
hands of the people of San Francisco, we departed with
keen regret to Oakland to board our special train and con
tinue our joumey. At Oakland we found our Southern
Pacific train in spick-and-span order awaiting us. It was
not long until everyone of the party was accounted for, and
the train started northward, and bound for our next brief
stop at Sacramento, the capital of the State of California.
In an hour or two we reached the banks of the great Sacra
mento River, and our further progress was seemingly barred
by a vast expanse of deep and bridgeless water. The
place where our train halted was called Porta Costa; the town
on the opposite side of the water was called Benicia, and
the turbulent waters between are named the Strait of Carne
quinez. While the train stood still we investigated matters
and found there was a way across the water — by a floating
railroad — or, in other words, by means of a gigantic ferry
boat, named Solano. When we saw the ferry boat, which
is said to be the largest in the world, we realized it was
equal to the task of moving us. It is 424 feet long, 121
feet wide and has four railroad tracks on it, side by side,
170

CAPITOL BUILDING AND PARK, SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

COUNTRY SCENE NEAR SACRAMENTO.
and is run by four engines of 2,000 horse power. The
boat will carry 36 large sized freight cars, or 48 of the old-
style small cars. Our train of two locomotives and ten cars
was cut into three sections and run out on the boat with
out a jar. The boat sailed the water like a swan and car
ried us and our cars easily and gracefully across the strait.
While crossing we left the cars and climbed into the pilot
house and every high spot of vsmtage on the boat.
Benicia, the town on the north side of the strait, is
known to fame as the birthplace of the pugilist, John C.
Heenan, who, in 1860, engaged in a prize fight with the
noted Englishman, Tom Sayers. They fought 64 rounds,
when Sayers' arm was broken and the fight ended in a
draw. After leaving Benicia our train entered a swampy
section, which is underlaid with quicksand deposits. The
171

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

STREET SCENE, SACRAMENTO.
railroad is built on piling, and frequently as much as 400
feet of track disappears suddenly into sink holes, compell
ing the railroad company to pour car load after car load of
stones into the hole, and spend hundreds of dollars repair
ing the damage. Such repairs had just been completed
before we reached there, and we passed over the road in
safety. Beyond the swamps we entered a fine level pas
ture land, on which we saw thousands of fat sheep and sleek
cattle grazing. Still further on we passed through thrifty
farms and extensive vineyards, laden with rich and luscious
grapes. We reached Sacramento shortiy before sunset and were
172

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
met at the station by the Board of Trade and committees
of citizens. The first want was supper, and a general rush
was made for the restaurants and hotels. After our inner
man was satisfied, the Board of Trade took us in charge
and guided us in special trolley cars over the city, stopping
to carefuUy- inspect the famous Sutter's Fort, which has
been thoroughly repaired and restored, and is in an excel
lent state of preservation. Here it was that in the early
days of the settlement of that section of California that the
traders and settlers fled for safety and protection when the
hostile Indians took to the war-path, and sought their scalps.
Later, after viewing the residential portion of the city, we

THE CROCKER ART GALLERY, SACRAMENTO.
173

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ONE OF SACRAMENTO'S BEAUTIFUL PARKS
visited the Crocker Art Gallery, which is said to be the
finest in the State, and which is full of beautiful, costly and
pleasing paintings and statuary. The paintings alone are
valued at close to a miUion dollars.
At the completion of the trolley ride our party was
escorted to the stately and magnificent capitol buildings and
tendered a handsome reception by the Governor and citi
zens. The capitol building is situated in a most beautiful
park, which greatly enhances the beauty of the magnificent
structure, which for imposing grandeur of appearance is
174

COUNTY COURT HOUSE AND SUTTERS FORT, SACRAMENTO, CAL

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,
unexcelled by any similar building in any of the States,
At the reception each of the ladies was presented with a
handsome boquet of beautiful flowers. While at the capi
tal we learned an interesting fact — that John Bigler, who
was Govemor of California from 1851 to 1855, was a na
tive of the Keystone State, having been bom at Carlisle,
January 8, 1805. He moved to Califomia, with his family,
in 1849. He was a brother of WiUiam Bigler, who was
Govemor of Pennsylvania at the same time.
Sacramento is a thriving city, with fine business blocks
of granite and brick, and is modern and up-to-date in all
respects. It has a well-equipped and well-managed electric
trolley system, which reaches all parts of the city, and pen
etrates into the surrounding country. The church build
ings are numerous and of beautiful and imposing architec
ture. The streets are numbered in one direction and the
intersecting streets are named after the letters of the alpha
bet. The city is certainly a beautiful one with wide, well
graded and nicely shaded thoroughfares.
Sacramento is improving rapidly under the wise ad
ministration of the Board of Trade, whose campaign of pub
licity and promotion is ably managed. The city adminis
tration is alert, active and doing all that it can to second the
efforts of the Board of Trade. We regretted that our time
was so limited that we could not see more of the city and
linger longer with its hospitable people.

175

CHAPTER XXIV.
DUNSMUIR — THE LADY .BARBERS — THE LORDLY MT,
SHASTA — MT SHASTA SPRINGS.
OUR special train left Sacramento on its northem mn
shortly after midnight. As we sped along the north
em border of Califomia we crossed and re-crossed the Sacra
mento River no less than 18 times, as it wormed its tortu
ous course to the sea. The next moming found our train
at Dunsmuir, Califomia, a hustling mountain town on the
Cascade Range, where we were treated to a generous break
fast. The mountain air had sharpened our appetites and
we ate our meal with keen relish. During our short stop
we saw aU the sights, and among the curiosities was a bar
ber shop mn by lady barbers. The mountaineers seemed
to enjoy having the girls put their arms around their heads
and pat their cheeks during the shaving operation. Some
of grey-beards of our party were so charmed with the novel
sight that they ventured into the shop and had one the
dizzy blondes lather and shave them. The girls were not
slow in the matter of inviting the boys to take a seat and
try a shave. The only wonder is the boys escaped with
any money at all. The girls thoroughly understood their
business, and were raking in the coin at a great rate. The
fun was cut short by the locomotive whistle waming us to
board the train again. After leaving Dunsmuir the train
176

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

passed up some very steep grades, around sharp curves and
over a great horse shoe bend, which is a close rival of the
P. R. R. horse
shoe curve. The
puffing, struggl
ing locomotives
showed plainly
what a herculean
task is was tc
haul our heavy
train up the moun
tain. The road
ran through verj
picturesque scen-
ery — rugged
mountains tower
ing on each side,
with a turbulent
stream of crystal
clear water dash
ing and. tumbling
ing over the mos
sy rocks in silv
ery spray. Each
turn of the rail
road gave a dif
ferent setting to
the scene and
painted a new and
beautiful picture
for us to feast our eyes upon. In a short time our train
177

W t?3O >
>r'
y cn>cn H>cn It)Zocn

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ran closer and deeper and deeper into the mountains, and
the pine and redwood trees, with their deep green foliage,
became more nu
merous, contrast
ing beautifully
with the browns,
greys and coppers
of the rocks, while
the sunlight glint
ing and glancing
down over the
mountain peaks
and rocks, with
deep blue of the
sky overhead,
completed the
beautiful picture.
A few moments
later a turn in the
road brought into
view the noble
Mount Shasta,
with its royal head
crowned with a
diadem of ever
lasting snow. —
There, high up
in the air, stood
the guardian peak
14,442 feet above
tiie sea, alone in aU its grandeur, the ruler of the mountains.
178

"2OzhH<
OT
d" 2
OT <
uwWH

'¦*~-*MCS=»-

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

The beauty and majesty of that picture appealed to one and
all of us, as we gazed long in wonder and admiration. It
was hard for many
of the party to be
lieve that the sum
mit of Mount
Shasta was real
ly crowned with
snow those later
days in June, but
so it was, and the
icy cold streams
that came tumbl
ing down the
mountain sides
testified of the
snow, ice and
cold on those
heights above.
The summit of
Mount Shasta is
scaled annuaUy
by many hardy
tourists, and after
a strenuous climb
of ten hours they
reach the top,
when they are
amply repaid for
their labor; for
on that high vantage point they become neighbors to the
179

M

<!
WfOW
Oo cn >cn H> cnz
ocn

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

clouds, and there before them stretches out a wonderful'
panorama embracing Oregon, part of California and Neva
da's plains, while
far to the west
may be seen the
blue waves of the
Pacific Ocean. —
In a few hours our
train rounded a
curve and we
came in sight of
Mount Shasta
Springs, one of
Cahfornia's most
famous and pop
ular summer re-
resorts. It is
claimed there is
no finer mountain
resort in the
world. Its wat
ers possess rare
virtues and cura
tive properties. —
The mountain
side seems to be
strewn with
springs of crystal
water which
comes bubbling
forth from the rocks and dash down the mountain side
180

SNOW CROWNED MOUNT SHASTA

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

forming the most beautiful and entrancing cascades imag
inable. The main sources of water are five mineral springs
at the base of the
mountain, near
the railroad track,
which are united
and pour forth in
to a very large
concrete basin —
M t-,— BKWM'fjTmr ¦ - 'iiiMMMi^ The waters are
m'^-'^SBiW^^^^-rl^^ "^ strongly impreg-
monia, the fumes
rising in clouds,
 and when inhaled
aB KmH'.' ' rv"*^ -^ give one the sen-
'^^f f. jfNlF^'* ' sation of having
drunk highly
charged soda wat
er. The Com
pany in possess
ion of the springs
have a large bot
tling plant near
the main spring
where they bottle
and keg the wat
er for shipment to
all parts of the
world to be used
a table and health water. All trains stop at the Shasta
181

as

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
Springs long enough for the passengers to drink most cop
iously of tiie waters and to view the wonder of the pictur
esque scenery. The waters are very highly impregnated
with alum, iron, soda, magnesium and other minerals, and
are especially efficacious in the treatment of stomach and
kidney troubles. Near the station is a large first-class na-
tatorium, where the visitors can indulge in a plunge bath in
heated mineral water. At the summit of the mountain is a
magnificent level plateau adomed with finely kept lawns and
beautiful flowers. The company has built a commodious ho
tel and comfortable cottages for summer visitors. Here is
held a profitable summer Chautauqua, The summit of the
mountain can be reached either by an incline railway, about
2,000 feet long, or by zig-zag paths scaling the mountain
side at easy grades, with frequent seats for the weary to
rest upon as they ascend. From the plateau a very fine
view can be had of the noble proportions of the peak of
Mount Shasta.
We left Mount Shasta Springs much pleased and in
vigorated by our brief stop there. Leaving the Springs the
railway continued to chmb the mountain and from Horn-
brook to Siskiyou, a distance of 19 miles, we ascended
2,258 feet. As we passed along this part of the railroad
we saw immense and almost endless piles of cord wood
ranked along the way for the use of the railroad on their
locomotives. A reference to the map revealed the fact that
we were nearing the end of Califomia soil, over which we
had traveled almost a thousand miles from its southernmost
border to its northemmost line.

182

CHAPTER XXV.
OUR FIRST GLIMPSE OF OREGON — ASHLAND—
MEDFORD — SALEM.
SHORTLY after passing Cole's Station we saw by the
road side the large sign-board marking the limit of the
Golden State, and the next minute we were in the land of
Oregon; a land flowing with milk and honey; a land of
of many rich promises; the land which passed to the United
States by the treaty of June 15th, 1846, with Great Britain,
Our first introduction to the hospitable people of Oregon
was made June 26th, 1905, when our train stopped at Ash
land. Here the people had tumed out in crowds to greet
us, and presented us with numerous boxes of the finest and
largest cherries we ever saw. The fruit was so delicious
and was such a treat that all ate as much as they could,
and sighed with regret that they were unable to stow away
more. Here we were given a carriage drive around the
city and in the evening took dinner at the station hotel.
Ashland. It certainly was fine. Everything had been pre
pared to the queen's taste by the Chinese cooks. Each per
son had a whole juicy, fat spring chicken for himself and all
the other fixin's, and we ate as though we never expected
to eat again.
The Ashland people certainly did everything they
could to make us leave at peace with ourselves and with a
183

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
good impression of their growing town. A few hours later
in the eveing our special made a brief stop at Medford,
where we were greeted with music and a host of citizens.
A generous supply of beautiful flowers were presented by
the ladies' reception committee to our girls. Our time at
Medford was taken up with an inspection of the local mu
seum, located near the station, where there was a magnifi
cent collection of the agricultural, horticultural, floricultural
and mineral products of that section of the State. A view of
those exhibits and a talk with some of the prominent citi
zens gave us a very correct idea of the possibilities and re
sources of that region.
After leaving Medford, and while our train passed
swiftiy through the darkness of the night, a party of three
ladies and three gentlemen ( one of the latter being a six-
footer weighing 225 pounds) stood on the platform of the
car talking. Suddenly, out of the darkness, two hard-look
ing men, with villainous faces, appeared on the opposite car
platform. Immediately there arose visions of a"" genuine
western holdup. The ladies trembled, screamed and hid
their jewels and money in their stockings. The big six-
footer, who looked like a prize fighter, at once started to flee
back into the car for safety. He said he objected to being
shot on such short notice. In the twinkling of an eye the
smallest man of the party quickly stepped across to the other
platform and demanded the intruders' business. They did
not display any fierceness, but replied that they were railroad
ers who had gotten left, and they desired to go as far as
Grant's Pass on the special. That seemed all right and the
dauntless little editor stood guard until those fello'ws drop
ped off the train when that station was reached. But from
184

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
that time forth no vestibule doors were kept open after night
fall, and no chances were taken of a real holdup.
During the night our train passed through Grant's
Pass, one of Oregon's most prosperous mining camps, and
the miners, not to be outdone by the other Oregonians, put
a box of badges on the train for us. They were certainly
unique. In the centre of each was a small piece of real gold
quartz. The next morning we stopped for a short time at Al
bany, where we were met by pretty young damsels with
baskets of luscious cherries and beautiful flowers. The
fruit, flowers and young ladies were fully appreciated and
enjoyed, and we parted from them with great reluctance.
Albany is a rapidly growing city of about 6,000 thrifty peo
ple. The city has the best transportation facilities of any
city in the State, except Portland, It is located in the midst
of the magnificent Willamette Valley, They have just
enough rain; just enough sunshine; excellent water; no ex
cessive heat, and no excessive cold, to make a climate un
excelled anywhere,
A mn of a few miles farther brought us to Salem, the
capital of Oregon, where we were scheduled for breakfast.
After that meal was over the citizens tendered us a drive
through the city, after which we were received at the State
capitol buildings by Govemor Chamberlain, and made to
feel that he was our friend, and that the whole State of Or
egon was ours, if we wanted it. The Govemor impressed
us as a courteous, affable gentleman, and as a broad-minded
and efficient executive.
Salem, being the State Capital, has the Oregon peni
tentiary, asylum for the insane, reform school, deaf mute
185

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
school, school for the blind and all other purely State insti
tutions. The city has many manufactories which tum out
large quantities of fine products. In the surrounding coun
try are raised the finest prunes, strawberries and other fruits
that can be found in the State. The city is situated on the
beautiful Willamette River, on which a daily service of
steam boats is maintained between Salem and Portland.
After we had seen all of Salem's beauties and points of
interest, being impressed with its solid worth, we resumed
our joumey, passing through a fertile farming section, with
signs of prosperity and large crops in evidence on all sides,
and the country becoming more thickly settled we realized
that we were approaching the metropolis of Oregon,

186

CHAPTER XXVI.
PORTLAND — THE ROSE CITY — THE LEWIS AND CLARK EX
POSITION — SACAJAWEA, THE INDIAN PRINCESS.
AT one o'clock the aftemoon of June 27th our special
steamed into the Union Station at Portland, The
bustling activity on all sides and the crowds of people at
the depot brought home to us the fact that we were at last
in the city of the famous Lewis and Clark Exposition. At
the Union Station special trolley cars were awaiting our
party, and we were soon seated and whirled away to our
headquarters at the American Inn on the Exposition
grounds. We found the American Inn to be commodious
and the entertainment of a very high grade for an exposi
tion hotel. The hotel people treated us well, and did all
they could to make us comfortable; doing all they could to
serve and please us, and they succeeded in their efforts.
The Lewis and Clark Exposition pleased us all. It
was an exposition complete in interesting details, and an ex
hibition which would have done honor to many a larger city.
It would be manifestly unfair to make a critical comparison
between it and the mammoth affairs which we had seen at
Chicago, Buffalo and later at St. Louis. It was not in
their class, but it was in a peculiar and interesting class of
its own. The exhibition was carefully planned, artistically
placed, ably managed, and in all its departments complete
and interesting, reflecting great credit and honor on the
187

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE UNION STATION, PORTLAND.
people who projected and conducted it, .from President H.
W. Goode, down to the lowest menial who contributed to
its success. The Exposition grounds were peculiarly fortunate in
having a beauty of natural setting. The park embraced
406 acres, and had a beautiful natural lake — Guild's Lake,
of 220 acres. On one side were the picturesque waters of
the Willamette River and on the other side towered the
pine-crowned summits of the Willamette Mountains. From
the Exposition Park, in the distance, can be seen the snow-
crowned peaks of Mount Hood, 11,225 feet high; Mount
Rainer, 14,259 feet; Mount St. Helens, 10,000, and Mount
Adams, 1 2 ,470 feet. There were 1 0 large exhibition palaces
on the grounds, erected in the mission style of architecture,
and treated in a beautiful and harmonious scheme of color.
188

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
With the large expanse of water, artistic bridges, extensive
lawns and multitudinous flower beds, with 20,000 rose
bushes in full bloom, the grounds in daylight presented a
very pretty sight, and at night thousands of glowing elec
tric lights made the Exposition a glorious and briUiant
panorama of sparkling fountains, flowers, trees, terraces,
lakes, lagoons and massive and picturesuue buildings. The
exhibition buildings were the forestry building, Oriental
exhibits, European exhibits, agricultural, liberal arts, mines

A bird's-eye VIEW OF PORTLAND.
and metallurgy, fine arts, machinery, electricity and trans
portation. The entrance to the grounds was through a stately and
omate colonade. The exhibition booths were crowded
with interesting displays, and the Oriental departments were
unusually attractive and complete. The palm for the
largest and richest Oriental display was carried off by the
wiley Japanese, The United State Government had a fine
large building, located on an island in the center of the lake,
in which they made a handsome display from all the de
partments of the General Government, there being espec-
189

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ially complete exhibits in the Army and Navy branches of
the service. There was also a fine exhibit of cruisers and
battle-ships anchored at the exhibition door in the Willa
mette River. The usual "Midway" and "Pike" were pres
ent under the name of "The Trail." There was gathered
all the side-shows of the Fair. Some of them were very
amusing, but others were poor. The
star feature of "The Trail" was the
celebrated gray mare "Princess
Trixie," owned by W. H. Bames,
of Sioux City, Iowa, which in its
tricks and feats of intelligence and
dexterity, did almost everything but
talk, far exceeding any
equine wonder we had ever
seen. There were large
daily attendances at the
Exposition, con
sidering
the far dis
tant loca
tion and.
the popu
lation of '^^^ LIGHTHOUSES AT THE MOUTH OF COL-
surround- UMBIA RIVER.
ing states. In all almost 3,000,000 people visited tiie
Fair. On the evening of June 27th President Goode, of
the Exposition Association, assisted by other members oi
the official body, and a bevy of handsome ladies, tendered
our party a most brilliant and thoroughly enjoyable recep-
190

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

tion at the New York State Building, on the grounds.
Our party, during our short stay, made the most of our
time in seeing
all the points of
interest in the
Exposition. The
Lewis and Clark
Exposition cele
brates the 100th
anniversary of
the exploration
of the Oregon
country, which
embraced the
territory now the
states of Oregon,
Idaho, Wash
ington and parts
of Montana and
Wyoming, made
by Captain Mer
riweather Lewis
and Captain
William Clark,
under a commis
sion from Presi
dent Thomas
Jefferson, in the
year 1803.—
Many hardships
and great privations were endured by Lewis and Clark in
191

>
w
o2 HMXO

o z

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

SEAL OF THE EXPOSITION

their travels, and many perils
were encountered from wild
beasts and savages. A pretty
romance was connected with
this expedition. The two
explorers were lost in the
vast wildemess and were
unable to hit the trail. —
Suddenly there appeared be
fore them a beautiful and
graceful Indian maiden, who,
by signs, made them under
stand that she was their
friend and would lead them
to a place of safety. The
name of this dusky maiden, who was a princess among her
own people, was Sacajawea. She
conducted the explorers out of the for
est to the village of her father, where
they were kindly received and guides
fumished them to contine their explor
ations. The seal of the Exposition
has on its face a medalion of the Indi- 1
an princess Sacajawea walking be
tween Lewis and Clark, with her arms I
around their necks, lovingly leading
them towards the realm of the setting
sun. On the Exposition grounds
stands a heroic bronze figure of Saca
jawea, representing her as a beauti- STATUE OF MERI-
ful, youthful and graceful Indian WEATHER LEWIS
192

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

maiden. If the
trancing as her
it is no wonder
were captivated by
The Exposition
thy a visit and a
the knowledge
ure and entertain
saw it were ade
tion for any incon

j original was as en-
j bronze counterfeit
' Lewis and Clark
i the forest princess.
; was certainly wor-
^ long journey, and
gained and pleas-
ment of all who
quate compensa-
veniences that may
have have been in statue OF WILLIAM curred. After we
had exhausted the CLARK Exhibition we
turned our attention to the city of Portland and the sur
rounding country.
Portland has become known to fame as the "Rose
City," due to the fact that roses are grown there in the
1 greatest profus-
' ion and in the
greatest perfec
tion of bloom and
perfume of any
place in the world.
The roses are
grown out doors
all the year
GRAND STAIRWAY TO TERRACE OF STATES , • ,
around, owing to
the open and salubrious climate, there being no extremes of
heat or cold and no snows and frosts. The Cascade range
of mountains protects the city on the east from a rigorous
climate, and the air is tempered to a wonderful mildness by
the balmy breezes which sweep landward from the ocean on
193

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE ENTRANCE AND ADMINISTRATION
BUILDING, The United

on the west. Frequent rains during the winter months and
spring-time serve in keeping the rose bushes green and
their bloom pro
lific, Portland
has a fine location
on the Willamette
River, a short dis
tance above the
stream's junction
with the Colum
bia River. Large
craft of all kinds
ascend from the
ocean to Portland
wharves, making
it one of the chief sea ports of the northwest.
States Government is making improvements in the Colum
bia and Willa
mette rivers
which will result
in allowing the
largest ocean
vessels to dock at
Portland, and will
increase the city's
importance and
prestige as a re
ceiving and ship
ping port. The
city has a population close to 150,000 people, the majority
of whom are former easterners, who have gone there and
194

A PORTION OF CENTENNIAL PARK,

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

become hustlers and shouters for Portland's increase and
prosperity. The city's location is ideal, having plenty of
lowlands for bus-
ness locations and
beautiful hills and
heights for the
residental portion
of the city. The
city is very pro
gressive, has fine
business build
ings and public
impro V e m e n t s .
It has an ample
INTERIOR OF THE FORESTRY BUILDING , ,
water supply and
a complete system of electric lighting, and trolley cars which
wind around, in and out of the city, for 164 miles. The
streets are well paved and sewered, and an efficient and
courteous police department looks after the public safety.
It has a record of commercial and manufacturing results for
the year 1903 footing up to $271,000,000, and the bank
clearings for the
same year am
ounted to $176,-
000,000. The
city has ample
accommodation s
for aU its guests.
The chief hotel is u. s. government building.
the palatial Portiand, which was erected at an expenditure
of $1,000,000, where all the comforts of life may be had at
195

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

a good round price. Everything there is done to the
queen's taste; and you can have it all if you only have the
us was one ^^jg^^^ P""^^' ^^°^^^^ ^^^^ ^"P
made to .^^^^1^ which was much enjoyed by
Fort Van- ^^ ^^^
couver and a^nr ¦ 'ipfe'^^ ^*
the city "'^^ f^^'^'
of Van-
couver,Washing -
ton, only 8
miles by
trolley ac
ross the
Colum b i a
River from
Portiand.
Vancouv er was first
establi s h -
ed in 1792
by Lieu
tenant Van
couver, an
Engli sh
explorer, and here in the year 1806 the Hudson
Bay Company, under the noted McLaughlin,
established a trading post for trading with the Indians and
buying furs. Later the place came under the control
of the Americans, and here on May 23d, 1849, the
United States founded Columbia Barracks, and the stars
196

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE FORESTRY BUILDING,

and stripes floated in the breeze on the banks of the Colum
bia River. The name of the military post was, in 1853,
again changed to
Fort Vancouver
and has since re
mained the same.
Here our famous
generals, Grant,
Sherman and
Sheridan, receiv
ed some of their
best early train
ing. The boys
in blue at the
fort present a
brave and inspiring sight when they tum out on dress pa
rade on the espalande, in front of the quarters, at five o'clock
each afternoon. Our girls were much impressed by the
sight of the brass buttons, but we brought them away with
out any seriously
broken hearts, —
Returning to
Portland we
spent the night
and devoted the
next day in fare
well views of the
city and partings
with newly-made
friends. We had expected to leave Portland early in the
afternoon of June 29th over the line of the Oregon Railroad
197

ORIENTAL EXHIBIT BUILDING.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

and Navigation Company, so that we might view all the
mgged and romantic beauties of the upper Columbia by
daylight, but the
plans were sud
denly changed,
and our special
did not leave un-
.til late that night,
much to our re
gret, and thus we
missed seeing
the grandest of EUROPEAN EXHIBIT BUILDING.
the river scenery. While we were wandering around Port
land we were invited into the United States Court House,
and there we saw the venerable United States Senator John
I. Mitchell being tried for land frauds. A few days later
we read in the papers that his gray hairs and high position
did not save him. The jury had convicted him. It was a
sad commentary
on the vicissitudes
of life. Here was
a man of fine com
manding figure,
kindly countenan
ce and courteous
manner, who had
risen by his O'wn
AGRICULTURAL BUILDING. gffo^g j^om hum
ble circumstances to be a man of wealth and great influence,
only, in his old days, to fall a victim to unlawful graft.
Senator Mitchell's example should serve as a warning to
198

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

young men of our day and generation to pursue the straight
and narrow path, knowing that honesty is still the best pol
ity. An appeal was tsiken from the verdict to the Supreme
Court of the United States in the hope of saving the offen
der from entering the prison gates, but before that tribunal
could act, on December 8th, 1905, Senator Mitchell was
seized with a hem
orrhage of the
teeth while in a
dentist's office and
died a few hours
later in the Good
Samaritan Hospi
tal at Portland. —
Ten miles below
the city of Port
land the waters of
the Willamette
River enter into
the mighty tide of
the Columbia Riv
er and msh a 100
miles farther on
to join the Pacific
Ocean. There
are many interes
ting side trips that can be made cheaply, and in a few
hours from Portland.
Many of our party took the steamer down the Colum
bia River to Astoria, one of the oldest towns on the coast,
where we saw the mighty Columbia salmon taken from the
199

A CORNER OF THE FORESTRY BUILDING

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

river and in a few minutes turned into the choicest table
dainties. Each editor took a can of salmon away from the
cannery as a souvenir. The canneries are mammoth es
tablishments, and are conducted on hygenic principles,
every detail of the
tion of the
fish being
done with
the most
perfect
cl e a n 1 i -
ness. Just
before the
train left
Porti and
our party
appreci a -
ted the at
ten tion,
kindn ess
and cour
tesy of Mr.
A.CJack- son, the SALMON FISHING, COLUMBIA RIVER
traveling passenger agent of the Southern Pa
cific Railroad Company, who had joumeyed with
us from the first hour of our entry into Califomia to the
parting of the ways at Portiand, sprung a surprise on that
gentleman. Mr. Jackson was at all times attentive to the
wants of our party, and continually alert to point out all
places of interest and beauty along the road, thus gaining
200

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
the admiration and good will of us all. The remembrance
of our party to the genial agent took the form of a beauti
fully engraved silver service. The gift was a total surprise
to Mr. Jackson, and he made a brief speech expressive of
his heartfelt appreciation of the generosity and admiration
of our party toward him. Then we parted with mutual
good wishes and adieux.

201

CHAPTER xxvn.
THE LA GRANDE VALLEY — HOT LAKE — BAKER CITY — BOY
THROWS GOLD AT A DEER.
THE night of June 29th passed away with the clouds
and the morning of June 30th dawned-^srightly, with
a fresh and exhilerating air. During the night we had
skirted the Columbia River and mshed past the dashing
Dalles and their romantic scenery. The Columbia is a
mighty river, and flows over 450 miles before it loses itself
in the Pacific. The moming found us moving swiftly
through one of the most beautiful and fertile valleys east of
the Cascade Mountains — the La Grande Valley. It is
truly a "grande" vaUey, as its name indicates. On all
sides were the evident signs of its richness and fertility in
the vast stretches of wheat fields, pastures and orchards of
rich and luscious fmits. The valley embraces 300,000
acres, and all kinds of fruit are raised there with the great
est success, from the finest cherries to the largest apples.
Thousands of sheep feed in the green pastures and gambol
along the babbling brooks, furnishing the finest lamb and
mutton chops that go upon the epicures' table. Even the
oldest mutton retains its tender juiciness when it graces the
menu of the stylish restaurant. At La Grande we ate our
breakfast, and a most generous and hearty breakfast it was,
for it was late in the morning, like the French de juner.
On our way north we had seen the rugged and stem moun-
202

STREET SCENE, BAKER CITY, OREGON.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

tam scenery of Oregon, and now, as we moved southward,
the scenery had changed and tiie valley regions were to be
traversed and inspected until we leave the State. No mat
ter what kind of scenery the tourist or traveler may desire
Oregon has
it. The
CascadeMountains
divide the
State into
two grand
divis ions.
On one side
are the riv
ers, the Pa
cific Ocean, UMATILLA INDIAN
the snow VILLAGE
capped mountain peaks, water falls,
lakes, bays, foot hills, lava beds ard
caves, while on the other side are
the green, fertile and undulating valleys burdened with
crops and teeming with pastoral life, while the brooks and
rivulets, singing their songs of gladness, run hither and
thither over the valleys like streams of glistening silver.
The far distant rugged mountains, with their dark green fir
covered sides and snow capped summits form a beautiful
frame for this entrancing picture, the pure, clear air bringing
each beauty spot out with vivid distinctness and carrying the
vision for a 100 miles away. In these rich valleys are
grown the largest and sweetest strawberries, blackberries
and raspberries in the greatest profusion. As we passed
203

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
swiftiy along we saw acre upon acre of towering dark green
vines upon wire treUises. Upon inquiry we leamed these
were some of Oregon's famous hop fields. The sight of
the hop vines was marvelous, and we never dreampt they
were raised upon such an enormous scale. We were told
that Oregon is the greatest hop producing State in the
Union, if not in the world. We were also informed that
the annual production is about 30,000 pounds and the crop
is worth about $6,000,000. There being so many hops
raised in that State, there is no excuse ior the brewers not
making pure malt and hop beer. The National Govem
ment should do as the foreign govemments do — look into
this question, and see that our drinks are of a standard of
purity, as well as the foods we eat.
Oregon is also a large grower of wheat, barley and
grains, flax and flax seed and sugar beets. The exports of
flour and bread stuffs from the State annually amount to
about $10,000,000. Her production ot lumber amounts to
the gross sum of $35,000,0000 each year, and she has bil
lions of feet of timber still standing. The Oregon red ced
ar shingles has been a familiar sight on the eastem markets
for many years past.
The United States Government has commened to look
to Oregon, and is carrying out the motto, "Save the forests
and store the floods." There are already many very large
govemment forest reservations in Oregon, embracing several
million acres. The State has untold mineral wealth, which
has attracted but little attention as yet, and has been but
poorly developed. It is a State of vast resources. The fol
lowing data of Oregon is interesting: Land area in square
miles, 94,560. Exploring expedition proposed by President
204

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CASTLE ROCK ON COLUMBIA RIVER.
Jefferson, December 4, 1783. Columbia River discovered.
May 11, 1792. Explored by Lewis and Clark, 1805-06.
Astoria founded, April 12, 1811, Organized as a territory,
August 14, 1848. Admitted as a state, February 14, 1859.
The name Oregon first appeared in print in Jonathan Car
ver's "Travels Through the Interior Parts of North Amer
ica," which was pubhshed in London in 1778, The origin
of the name is one of the enigmas of history. Carver pro
fessed to have received it from the Indians in the country of
th Upper Mississippi, where he had pushed his explorations.
The Indians, he says, told him of the River Oregon flowing
to the Western Ocean, but how much of the tale was his
own invention it is impossible to say, Jefferson used the
205

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

word in his instructions to Lewis and Clark, showing it was
beginning to have a vogue before "Thanatopsis" was writ
ten, but it was Bryant's solemn poem, with its sonorus
verse, which appeared in the year 1817, that famailiarized
the word Oregon, and soon put it on every tongue. Vari
ous other accounts of the Lewis and Clark expedition had

SUNSET ON THE COLUMBIA
RIVER.
appeared both in the United States
and Europe before the appearance of
"Thanatopsis," but undoubtedly it
was Bryant's expression, "Where Rolls the Oregon," that
first spread the name before the world.
Oregon is the sportsman's paradise. The rivers and
lakes teem with the gamey trout, pickerel, bass and wall
eyed pike, while the valleys and foot hills abound with
grouse, quail, golden Chinese pheasants and other wild
birds; ducks and geese flock to the lakes and afford rare sport.
In the mountains are found black, brown and grizzly bears,
the mountain lion and deer and antelope. The mild cli-
206

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

mate, with a mean annual temperature of 51 degrees above
zero, permits camp life, with the greatest comfort and pleas
ure, all the year around. The State stiU has plenty of
public lands for settiers, there being now no less than 18,-
374,732 acres open for homestead settlers. The country is
being rapidly filled up with the best class of settlers from
the middle west, and they do not seem to have any of the
low grade immigrants from Europe so common in Pennsyl
vania, especially around coal mines, stone quarries and rail
road operations. The railroad track work in Oregon is
done principally by Chinese and Japanese of the coolie
class, with white men for bosses. That seems to be the

CELILO FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER.
most satisfactory kind of labor they can secure for railroad
construction there, as the white laborer has higher aspira
tions, and refuses to engage in that kind of work, save only
in rare instances.
We were surprised to find the sentiment of Oregon
quite tolerant of the Chinese, but this condition of the pub
lic mind is accounted for by the fact that they must have
them to do the dmdgery work on the railroads.
On our way south from La Grande we passed the
famous Hot Lake. There are the largest hot springs
kno'wn, and are the most remarkable fountains on earth.
207

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
The lake is 313 miles east of Portiand, on the main line of
the Oregon Railroad and Navigation Company. The lake
embraces an area of eight acres, formed by the crater of an
extinct volcano, supplied by a large geyser of volcanic heated
water. The springs flow about 3,000,000 gallons of water
a day, and the temperature is 198 degrees. The waters
are an absolute specific for all forms of rheumatism, rheu
matic gout, stomach and liver troubles, nervous ailments,
blood and skin diseases. There are at Hot Lake the most
modem hotel, bath and hospital accommodations for the
comfort and treatment of patients at the springs.
Our next stop was made at Baker City, the county
seat of Baker County, and the metropolis and center of the
mining district of Eastern Oregon. Here we were well
treated and shown the sights of the town. Baker City is a
town of about 10,000 people and has a commanding posi
tion in the valley, standing at an elevation of 3,440 feet
above the sea level. The climate is most invigorating.
The town is surrounded with rich agricultural lands, under
laid with an untold wealth of minerals and precious metals.
The mining district surrounding Baker City embraces about
15,000 square miles, and is larger than the combined areas
of the states of Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecti
cut, There are both quartz and placer mines in the dis
trict, and all are worked on a paying basis, although the
mining industry is in its infancy, and has attracted but lit
tle attention from the outside world. In 1904 the gold out
put of the State of Oregon amounted to $4,000,000, and a
large portion of this come from the Baker field. Placer
mining is what is known as pocket mining. That is, the
free gold has been washed down from some cliff or ledge
208

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CITY HALL, BAKER CITY.

and collects in a hole, more commonly called a pocket,
where it is found by some fortunate prospector. At Baker
City we were told a mining story that made us feel like
remaining a few weeks
and to flirt with the fickle
goddess of fortune. —
Three weeks before our
arrival an 18-year-old
Baker City boy was out
in the mountain with his
gun and dog hunting
deer. He had shot and
wounded a large buck,
and endeavored to make
his dog chase the ani
mal, but without success. In a fit of passion the boy reach
ed down to pick up a stone to throw at his stubborn dog,
but just as he was about to
hurl the supposed stone he
noticed it had a peculiar
smooth smooth feeling which
caused him to pause and ex
amine it more closely, when
he discovered he held in his
hand a nugget of pure gold.
Of course it was not thrown.
The gust of passion was suc
ceeded by a lust for gold,
and the boy abandoned the
chase and tumed his atten
tion to seeking the pocket

LOGGING TRAIN NEAR BAKER
CITY.

209

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

A QUARTZ GOLD MINE NEAR BAKER CITY.
from which his nugget had rolled. He succeeded in locat
ing it in a short time, and it proved to be a rich one. He
carefully concealed all traces of his discovery, and retuming
home informed his brother of his rich find. The next day
the two retumed to the spot and staked off claims. Inside
of two weeks they dug out $40,000 worth of pure gold, and
later sold their claims to a company of capitalists for $100,-
000. A fortune of $140,000 in a period of three weeks is
not such a bad record of sudden wealth. Such good for
tune comes to few. Many prospectors work hard for months
and find only enough to make fair wages.
There is plenty of wealth hidden in those mountains
and foot hills of Oregon waiting to enrich the persevering
and lucky prospector. Neariy all our editors would have
210

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

A PLACER GOLD MINE NEAR BAKER CITY.
been glad to have gmb staked a miner or two in that sec
tion had they not been short of funds. The gold fever cer
tainly attacked a few of the boys, and they departed most
reluctantly from Baker City. Even the beautiful camations
and luscious cherries fumished us by the amiable ladies of
Baker City did not banish the thoughts of gold from their
minds. Our next stop, after leaving Baker City, was Hunt
ington, 404 miles east of Portland, It was interesting from
the fact that there ends the line of the Oregon Navigation
and Railroad Company, and commences the Oregon Short
Line Raifroad, a branch of the Union Pacific Railroad, It
is destined to become quite a railroad town, and it has the
noise and bustle of a railroad center. In addition to the
railroad communication, the town carries on a heavy stage
and wagon trade with several adjoining counties and also
the mining districts, which are still beyond the reach of the
211

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

THE ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER,
iron horse. The town is located in a low basin surrounded
by high and rugged mountains, but beyond the mountains
are large and fertile valleys which help to support the to'wn
and whose people make Huntington their trading depot.
The town has good schools, first-class hotels and enterpris
ing business houses in all lines of trade.
At Huntington a new crew and a new engine took our
train, and we gave a new hitch to our watches, setting them
one hour ahead, as we were passing another time meridian.
There are, according scientific method, five time meridians
in the United States, called Atlantic time, eastern time, cen
tral time, mountain time and Pacific time. As the traveler
starts west from the Atlantic Ocean he turns his watch back
one hour as he passes each meridian, and as he comes east
ward he sets his watch forward one hour as he crosses each
of these time lines. Thus when it is noon in PhUadelphia
it is only nine o'clock the same day in San Francisco, and
212

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST,

in London, England, it is five o'clock in the afternoon of
yesterday.

THE MULTNOMAH FALLS, 1,024 FEET HIGH.
213

CHAPTER XXVni.
IDAHO — THE SNAKE RIVER CANYON — THE BEAR
RIVER IRRIGATION.
SHORTLY after leaving Huntington our train crossed
the Snake River, and we were in another State —
Idaho. The Snake River rises in the Yellowstone National
Park, in the upper comer of Nevada, flowing westward
from the boundry line of the states of Idaho and Oregon,
and then is finally lost in the Columbia River. The Snake
River well deserves its name, for it is extremely serpentine
in its windings, and we crossed it many times before we
lost it. Our train, therefore, rushed in and out of Oregon
a number of times before we came to a stop at Nampa,
Idaho, for our supper. Nampa, with its quarter million
dollar hotel and numerous other fine public houses and good
restaurants, fumished a very fine evening dinner, which we
all enjoyed, as we had not had anything to eat since our
10 o'clock breakfast at La Grande. As we rested a few
hours in the cool of the evening the Nampa Spielers took
us in charge, and they outdid the Edison graphophone in
the beautiful songs they sang us of the present and future
greatness of their city and surrounding country. The beau
ty about their stories is the fact that there is much tmth in
what they tell you, and each fellow thoroughly beheves his
town is just the greatest place on God's green earth, and he
214

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
husties for it all he knows how. Even now railroads from
Nampa mn west to Portland, east to Salt Lake, north to
Emmet, south to Murphy and northeast to Boise, the capi
tal of Idaho. The country around about the city is to be
benefitted by the national system of irrigation, and the United
States Govemment has already made arrangements to build
in that vicinity a mammoth reservoir to cover 10,000 acres
of land. As a result of this gigantic plant over 400,000
acres of the Boise Valley will be brought under cultivation,
and will be made to blossom and bloom like a rose. Idaho,
with its 84,200 square miles of land and 510 square miles
of water, presents limitless opportunities for the capitalist,
settler, miner and farmer, for the State has but a small pop
ulation, and the development of its vast resources of all
kinds is in its infancy. Fortunes there await the hardy,
venturesome and strong, who are willing to spend their
efforts in subduing the mgged sides of nature.
During the night our train traversed almost the entire
width of the State, and on the moming of July 1st we
stopped at Pocatello, in the southwestern section of Idaho
to have a dining car attached to our train. The one diner
was not sufificient to feed our party very rapidly, and it was
late when the last of us had our breakfast that moming.
But the delay was taken philosophically by the most of us,
and the kickers kicked in vain and had to wait their turns.
Going south from Pocatello, Oregon, to Ogden, Utah, we
passed through some very rugged and curious scenery for
many miles along the Snake River. We saw gigantic
waUs of stone placed tiiere by nature to confine the river.
In many places these rocky cliffs, with layer after layer of
stone piled, wall fashion, one above the other, looking not
215

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
unlike the pictures one sees in prints of the great Chinese
wall, which for thousands of years encircled the great Celes
tial empire. As we rushed along we could see numerous
holes the gold miners had dug all along the mountain sides
with more or less success. Crossing the mountain divide
we reached the canyon of the Bear River, and followed the
river for many miles through very romantic mountain scen
ery. After leaving Franklin we crossed the Idaho State
hne into the empire of the Mormon State — Utah. Passing
down through the Bear River canyon we saw exemplified
the genius of man in hamessing the powers of nature to do
his work. A large dam of solid masonry had been flung
across the Bear River, high up in the mountain, collecting
millions upon millions of gaUons of water for irrigation and
commercial purposes. From the dam, on both sides of the
canyon, large canals led the water to the low lands and
valleys below, where it was utilized to generate electricity
for power and light, and also to irrigate the arid valleys, so
that they would blossom and bear the greatest abundance
of fruit. The canals are marvels of engineering skill, being
cut through the solid rocks of the cliffs bordering the canyon,
and where the river took sudden turns tunnels were bored
through the rocky barrier to conduct the water on its down
ward course. The expenditure of time and money to con
struct these canals was enormous, but it was fully justified,
for by means of the water so imprisoned and conducted hith
er and thither at the will of man, thousands of acres of Utah
desertr were converted into fertile and productive farms. The
only thing needed to make those deserts produce the best
grain, juiciest fruit and prettiest flowers was water, and it
has been supplied by the ingenuity and skill of man.
216

CHAPTER XXIX.
UTAH — THE MORMON STATE — ITS EXPLORATIONS
AND HISTORY.
TO-DAY Utah, with her 82,190 square miles of land
and 2,780 square miles of water, produces magnifi
cent crops of wheat, corn, oats, mammoth potatoes and
acres of beautiful flowers, while from her mountains come
millions of dollars annually in gold, silver and copper.
The first explorations of Utah were made by the
Spaniards in 1540. The first settlements were made by
the Mormons under the famous Brigham Young, at Salt
Lake, in 1847. The Mexican government claimed the
territory by right of Spanish exploration, but in 1848 Mex
ico ceded Utah to the United States. September 9th, 1850,
Congress passed an act creating the territory of Utah. In
the year 1896 Congress passed an act admitting Utah as a
state to the Union.
The first stop we made in Utah was at Ogden, the
railroad center of the State, and the largest and most influ
ential city in the State outside of the famous Salt Lake City.
Ogden is a hustling city of about 25,000 people, with a
large percentage of "Gentiles," as the non-Mormons are
called. Among the prominent railroads centering there are
the Union Pacific, the Oregon Short Line, the Denver and
Rio Grande Railway and the Salt Lake and Southern.
217

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
As our train was much behind time we did not have
time to see the whole of Ogden, our special waiting only
long enough for lunch and a change of crew and engines.
At Ogden our train was switched onto the tracks of the
Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, which was to take us all
the way to Denver, Colorado.
It is interesting to note that the settiement of Utah by
the Mormons, under Brigham Young, was exceedingly
romantic and picturesque. Brigham was one of the leaders
of the Mormon sect at Nalvoo, lUinois. One day in Feb
ruary, 1846, he informed his foUowers that he had had a
vision, in which the Lord appeared to him, directing him to
lead his people forth to the westward, to the land of promise;
that they should journey westward until they should come to
an exceeding high mountain, upon which was traced the
sign of the Cross, and there they should stop, dwell and
become a mighty nation. The Mormons arose, girded up
their loins, gathered their h jusehold goods, cattle and horses
in one immense caravan, consisting of cows, sheep and
horses, and great covered wagons called prairie schooners,
dra'wn by horses and oxen; with men, women and children,
started on their long, wearisome journey, with full reliance
and confidence in their leader and guide. They joumeyed
by day and rested at right. They traveled over plains,
crossed mighty rivers, passed along valleys and through
rugged mountain fastnesses, penetrated unexplored wilder
nesses, harrassed at every step by cruel, bloodthirsty savages.
Thus journeyed they for days, weeks and months, foot sore
and weary, continually attacked by hostile Indians; with
undaunted courage and undisturbed confidence in tiieir
leader, ever westward they went, until they had left behind
218

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
them 3,000 weary miles. The dawn of the moming of
July 24th, 1847, revealed to them the white, glistening and
mighty Cross fastened high on the mgged mountain side
before them as they stood on the bank of a river, and they
knew their journey was done.
The river they called the River Jordan, and the coun
try the Land of Promise. The land was then an uninvit
ing desert, but it was theirs by right of settlement, and, as
they believed, chosen for them by the Lord, for was not the
sign of the glorious Cross on the mountain, just as had been
foretold? Under adverse conditions and circumstances,
deemed almost insurmountable, they have converted the
barren wastes into fertile fields of great value and useful
ness. They caused the deserts to blush and bloom like a
rose. To-day the people of Utah are most prosperous,
happy and contented. The Mormons have achieved mar
vels in social, commercial and material development of that
country, and to-day they produce wonderful crops, while
their orchards grow as fine fruits as are seen in the world,
and their mines scientifically developed pour forth miUions
of dollars annually to the wealth of the world. On every
side are seen signs of the energy, thrift and perseverance
of the Mormons.
A short run from Ogden brought us to Salt Lake City,
the Zion city of the Mormons. Our train stopped and we
found ourselves in one of the most interesting and handsome
cities of America. It is the headquarters of the sect who
are pleased to call themselves the Church of Jesus Christ of
Latter Day Saints, and is the capital of Utah, the largest,
most populous, wealthiest and most important city in the
State. The city is situated on the banks of the River Jor-
219

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
dan 12 miles distant from the southwest shore of the great
Salt Lake, at an altitude of 4,200 feet above sea level. It
nestles at the very base of the Wasatch Mountains, which
rear their lofty snow-capped peaks 8,000 feet above, dis
playing their varied beauties of canyon, crag, pass and cone,
and as they stretch far southward, bounding for over 200
miles a grand valley, the paradise of the farmer, horticural-
ist and fruit grower. To the west lies the silent, mysteri
ous Great Salt Lake, with its health-giving miniature sea
breezes and exceptional bathing facilities.

220

CHAPTER XXX.
SALT LAKE CITY — THE GREAT SALT LAKE — THE TAB
ERNACLE — THE TEMPLE — THE MORMONS.
THE area of Salt Lake City is about four miles from
east to west and three miles from north to south. Its
thoroughfares are traversed by 100 miles of street railways.
The streets cross each other at right angles, are 133 feet
wide (including sidewalks 20 feet wide) and are lined on
either side by a uniform succession of beautiful shade trees,
and washed at either curb by cold and sparkling streams of
water which flow down from the distant mountain canyons,
giving the whole city the appearance of a huge grove,
whose luxuriant foliage covers an attractive coUection of
business marts, rich men's palaces, cottages and villas, with
here and there a steeple, dome or tower standing out boldly
from the mass of trees. Each street presents the appear
ance of a long avenue of poplar, locust, box alder, catalpa
and other ornamental shade trees. The streams of pure,
clear water running along the streets present a novel sight
and temper the heat of the hottest day in summer. The
houses of the city have gradually crept out to the foot of
the Wasatch Mountains. The climate is agreeable and
salubrious, the air dry, clear and bracing, not unlike that of
Northwestern Texas and New Mexico. The mean summer
temperature is about 74 degrees above zero, and the winter
221

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
temperature about 32 degrees above, although there are
days when the mercury falls much lower.
Within the city limits are several warm and hot springs
which have wonderful curative properties. These springs
are connected with sanitariums and bathing establishments
where the invalid may bathe and be treated. Our ffrst con-
cem on reaching Salt Lake City was to provide our noon
day lunch, which was somewhat delayed. After satisfying
the cravings of the inner man our party boarded a special
train of the Salt Lake and Los Angeles Railroad that was
in waiting to convey us to Saltair, on the shores of the
Great Salt Lake, some 12 miles distant. A dashing ride
of 30 minutes brought us to our destination, though long
before we reached it our lungs were filled with the refresh
ing and bracing salt air. Here we were landed at the lar
gest casino and dancing pavilion in the world, built out
over the waters of the lake, 4,000 feet from the shore, and
supported by 2,500 10-inch piles. The buildings are of
Moorish style of architecture and were built at an expendi
ture of $350,000. The length of the building is 1,200 feet
and the extreme width 355 feet. The lower floor is used
as a lunch and refreshment bower, and will seat 1 ,000 peo
ple at the same time. The second floor has a dancing hall
140 by 250 feet. Connected with the pavihons are 1,000
modem bath houses, each equipped with fresh, cold, running
water piped from the distant mountains. As we stepped
fortii from the pavilion there, spread before us, were 2,500
square miles of the greatest, most majestic and mysterious
sea on earth— the Great Salt Lake— a dazzling, glittering,
scintiUating jewel of the desert. There, 4,210 feet above
the level of the sea, rippled that mysterious lake whose ori-
222

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

SALTAIR BEACH AND PAVILION.
gin no man knows. In those waters are no living thing;
only deep, dark mystery and death dwell beneath those
briney waves. Here is salt enough to give savor to the
whole earth. The waters are almost one-fourth ( 22 per
cent.) salt. On one of the banks where the water had re
ceded were immense deposits of salt which were being dug
up with pick and shovel by workmen, loaded on cars and
hauled to the factories to be purified and refined.
A bath in these alluring and mysterious waters was the
desire of us all. We soon parted with our "two bits" ( 25
cents) and received in exchange a straw hat and a very
abbreviated bathing suit. As we went to tiie bathing houses
we found the walks and steps coated thickly with pure salt.
A word of caution to us on tiie saltiness of the water caused
us to enter very slowly and circumspectiy. The water at
the shore was shallow and deepened very gradually as we
went farther into the lake. The deeper we got we found
an increasing tendency of our feet to rise up from the bot
tom, and when we reached a depth of five feet they abso-
223

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
lutely refused to stay down. Then we discovered all we
had to do was let our feet go and we found ourselves safely
floating on the surface of the water without any effort on
our part. It was a queer and startiing sensation to find
that we could not sink beneath the surface of the water, no
difference how much we tried to do so. We also found
that the water, with its 22 per cent of salt, was a nasty thing
to trifle with, for when it got into your mouth it almost
strangled you, and when dashed into your eyes it would
almost blind you, burning like fire. Yet, when we finally
emerged from the briney waves all our fatigue and cares
had vanished, and we felt refreshed and rejuvenated, but
covered with a thick coating of salt,,like a frosted cake. A
shower bath of the fresh water soon relieved us of the saline
deposit. After exhausting all the novel sights and pleasure
of bathing at the Great Salt Lake, the special train of open
observation cars took us back to Salt Lake City.
Upon our arrival there trolleys were waiting to take us to
the famous Mormon tabernacle. That immense and interest
ing building is one of the first edifices that attracts the eye
on approaching the city. It is oblong, or eliptical, in shape
and is 250 by 150 feet. The roof consists of a single
wooden arch, supported by 46 pillars of cut sandstone,
which, with the space between, used for doors, windows,
etc., constitute the walls. The roof is the largest self-sus
taining roof in the United States, except that of the Grand
Central Depot, New York. The ceiling of the roof is 63
feet above the floor. The tabernacle is used for church
purposes, as weU as other large gatherings, and will seat
about 15,000 people. In the west end of the edifice stands
the great organ, pronounced by musical critics the finest in
224

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
the world. None equal it in variety of construction and
massiveness of tonal quality. The original organ was built
about 40 years ago, and many of the metal pipes were
carried over the plains by the Mormons in their early flight,
but the organ has been thoroughly reconstructed and all the
known improvements added until it stands to-day without
a peer. It is 53 feet high, 30 feet deep and 33 feet wide.
It has 108 stops and 5,000 pipes ranging from 2 to 32 feet
in length. We were treated to the most exquisite musical
feast here we ever enjoyed. The great organ was presided
over by Professor J. J. McLellan, a musical genius and
matchless performer, who stands without a peer in this
country. After we had entered the building the doors were
locked so that none could enter and interrupt the concert.
Then the keys were gently touched by the master hand and
sweetest sounds gently rose in a perfect and entrancing har
mony. From selection to selection the performer passed
with the greatest ease, carrying his hearers along in a be
wilderment of delight. The artist made the great instru
ment fairly talk and sing, and when he used the "voce hu
mana" stops we could hear the beautiful voices blending so
harmoniously and sweetly with the music of the other stops
that we could scarcely believe all the sounds came from the
organ and not from human throats. We were so charmed
and captivated by Professor McLellan's music that when
he stopped, after playing an hour and a half, we could
scarcely believe the concert was more than a half hour long,
and we could readily believe that "music hath charms to
soothe the savage breast."
The acoustic qualities of the tabernacle are so perfect
that we heard the sound of a pin dropping in one end of
225

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
the building, 250 feet distant. In front of the great organ are
the seats for the choir, which has a membership of 250
singers, none of whom are paid. At the close of the organ
recital. Apostle John Henry Smitii, of the Mormon Church,
and the editor of The Desert News, the church paper, made
an address of welcome, and incidentaUy told us the Mor
mons were all good Americans, and that they had been
much maligned; that they are trying to be good citizens
and support the United States Government. The anti-
Mormon party is very bitter in its attacks upon the Mor
mons, and several of the members in the city told us that
we should not trust the Mormons, that they were insincere,
etc. We doubtless saw the cleanest side, for the Mormons
did not invite us to their homes, nor reveal any of their
church secrets to us. They claim that poligamy is being
done away with.
Upon leaving the tabernacle we saw the great Mormon
temple before us, but we entered not therein, for it is
not permitted that any but the apostles and good ortho
dox Mormons shall enter its mysterious portals. It is
here that all the secret and mysterious rites, such as the
"holy marriage," are administered. The temple is a mag
nificent and imposing stmcture of dcU"k granite, and was,
like Solomon's temple, 40 years in building. It was com
menced in 1853, by Brigham Young, and was completed
and dedicated in 1893. It is 186 1-2 feet long and 99 feet
wide, its walls being 16 feet thick. It has six towers, three
at each end. The central tower is 222 1-2 feet high, and
is surmounted by a golden figure of the Angel Moroni
bringing the gospel. The figure is made of hammered
copper and is covered with pure gold leaf. It is 12 feet
226

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE TEMPLE AND TEMPLE SQUARE.
5 1-2 inches high, and surmounting its crown is a 100
candle power incandescent light. The temple covers an
area of 21,860 square feet and cost $4,000,000.
Nearby the temple is Assembly Hall, built of white
granite at a cost of $150,000. It will accommodate an
audience of about 3,000, and is used for small meetings by
the State priesthood. All the three described buildings are
located in what is known as Temple Block, a square con
taining 10 acres, and surrounded by a high adobe wall
built in 1854.
Just east of the Temple Block is one of the most im
portant church ofifices, called the Tithing House, and here
it is, each season, that each member of the Mormon Church,
be he poor or be he rich, takes one-tenth of his crops or
227

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

business to be used for the Lord — otherwise the Mormon
Church. We saw a poorly-clad Mormon with his mule
team and share of grain drive up to pay the church. Is it
any wonder that the church is wealthy and powerful with
such sinews of war continually coming in? The Gentile
churches might well take profit by that example of liberality,
and then we would no longer hear of church debts and
poorly paid parsons.
The Brigham Young houses — the Lion House, the
Bee Hive House and the Amelia Palace are nearby. The
Eagle Gate still stands
guard over what was
the entrance to the
spacious grounds,
which contain the
many homes of the
late Brigham Young.
A little farther down
the street is the colos
sal statue of Brigham
THE EAGLE GATE. Young. The most
mammoth business emporium in the city is the department
store of Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution. This
store does a business of $5,000,000 annually, and employs
350 hands, selling anything from a pin to a four-horse
wagon. After leaving the Temple Block the trolley cars were
waiting to convey us all around the. beautiful city. Each
car had its guide with his megaphone to direct our atten
tion to all tiie public buildings, places of interest and palat
ial homes of its many millionaire citizens. The city, with
228

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
its high elevation of 4,218 feet above sea level, and its salu
brious and exhilerating climate has attracted many wealthy
stockmen and mine owners to build their magnificent homes
there. The people of the city are not all Mormons. In
fact we were surprised to learn that more than one-third of
the citizens are Gentiles, or non-Mormons. The force and
power of the Gentiles and independent Mormons was strik
ingly illustrated on Tuesday, November 7th, 1905, when
they carried the city by a handsome majority over the Mor
mon organization, electing a mayor and city councU.
The grandeur and magnificence of the public build
ings, and the size and stability of the business blocks exci
ted our wonder and admiration. Three miles out from the
city and 700 feet in the air, above the city, Uncle Sam has
located a military post, with a strong garrison, called Fort
Douglass At. the conclusion of the trolley ride we scattered to
get our dinner, to meet later at the railroad station to re
sume our way southward. Everything was soon in readi
ness, and we left Salt Lake City about eight o'clock in the
evening of July 1st, over the Denver and Rio Grande Rail
road. Just before leaving we planned and carried out a
pleasant surprise on our genial, able and most efficient sec
retary, Mr. William A. Ashbrook, of Johnstown, Ohio, who
had planned the itinerary of our tour, and so successfully
managed the trip. The testimonial was an elegant ring of
Masonic design, set with a beautiful diamond. The gift
was a complete surprise to Mr. Ashbrook, and he highly
appreciated it on account of the good will and friendship
which suggested its bestowal.

229

CHAPTER XXXI.
ON THE WAY TO COLORADO— GLENWOOD SPRINGS, THE
WONDERFUL — THE MINERAL SPRINGS AND VAPOR
CAVES.
THE Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, which had us
in charge from Salt Lake City to Denver, a distance
741 miles, is an ideally managed road, and is the grandest
scenic route in the world. The ofificers of the road are gen
tlemen in every sense of the word, and they treated us with
the greatest courtesy and kindly attention, and did all in
their power for our comfort and pleasure.
The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad ascends rapidly
soon after leaving Salt Lake City. After we had ran about
two hours it became necessary to attach three additional
locomotives to pull our train up the mountain, we having
three engines in front pulling and one behind pushing, until
at Soldier Summit, Utah, we had reached an altitude of
7,460 feet and then commenced to descend for a couple of
hundred miles. During the night we passed through the
remaining portion of Utah, leaving it at Utahline. The
next moming, Sunday, found us in the Centennial State,
Colorado. The joyful word was passed that we would soon
reach the famous Glenwood Springs, where we wouldhave
our Sunday breakfast.
Glenwood Springs, besides its well-earned reputation
230

THE VALLEY OF THE GRAND RIVER, COLORADO.

THE HOTEL COLORADO, GLENWOOD SPRINGS, COLORADO.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

OPEN OBSERVATION CAR.
by reason of its hot springs, is noted as a favorite outfitting
station for the hunters who delight in going after big game.
Here it was that President Roosevelt stopped last spring and
made his preparations to penetrate the mountain, fastnesses
and forests in search of the grizzly bear and other large
game. Teddy got the big bear, and they tell many stories
of his prowess and bravery.
After running some time by the side of a dashing,
tumbling mountain torrent, our train rushed past a project
ing hill and Glenwood Springs and the valley of the Grand
River was before us. We made a dash over the high
bridge spanning the river to the Hotel Colorado, one of
the finest, most perfectly appointed and successful resort
hotels in the country. Here we were given a breakfast
with a long menu at $1 per head, but owing to the short
time at our disposal some of us were unable to eat the
worth of our money. Glenwood Springs is located in a
231

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CASTLE GATE.

most romantic spot in
the heart of the Rocky
Mountains at an ele
vation of 5,600 feet
above sea level. —
These hot springs
have been called the
Kissingen of Ameri
ca, because their wat
ers are very similar in
composition and ef
fects to those of the
noted springs in Kis
singen, Germany.

The most famous of the springs is called the Yampah, hav
ing been so named by the Indians generations ago, when
the dusky aborigines brought their sick and wounded braves
to the hot springs to bathe and be healed by the "Spirit of
the Waters," as they called the carbonic acid gas which is
given off in great quantities from the waters. The early
white settlers learned of these hot mineral springs from the
Indians, and their fame has gone on increasing ever since.
In addition to the hot springs there are three large natural
caves in the sides of the mountains which are filled with
steaming hot gaseous vapors. The caves have been fitted
up with marble seats and modern comforts, and there can
be taken nature's hot vapor baths. The Yampah spring
flows 1,700 gallons of hot water per minute. Nearby is the
great swimming pool, 600 feet long and covering about an
acre. The water pours into it from the spring at a temper
ature of 172 degrees Fahrenheit, but is reduced to a pleas-
232

THE YAMPAH SPRING, GLENWOOD SPRINGS, COLORADO.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CHIPETA FALLS, UTAH.
ant temperature for bathing by the mingling of cold water
from the mountain streams. The waters of these streams
are especially efificacious in all stomach troubles and ner
vous diseases. The sufferer of chronic diseases of the blood
and skin, rheumatism and catarrh find relief and cure at
these baths. Here all kinds and conditions of people can
enjoy the benefits of the waters. There are many moderate
priced hotels and boarding houses, and there are bath houses
for even the poorest of humanity to use. The famous Hotel
Colorado is 224 feet front and 260 feet deep, and is built
around three sides of a large court. The hotel is construc
ted of peach blow sandstone and Roman brick, modeled in
Italian style after the famous Villa Medici in Rome. The
Colorado can accommodate 600 guests and provide them
with all the modern comforts of life.
233

CHAPTER XXXn,
THE CANYON OF THE GRAND — THE MOUNT OF THE
HOLY CROSS— THE ROYAL GORGE.
FROM Glenwood Springs commenced the most roman
tic picturesque part of our ride down through the can
yon of the Grand River. The valley at Glenwood Springs
was wide, but soon after leaving that station the valley dis
appeared and we were in the midst of the canyon. At one
side the railroad was cut out of the rocks at the base of the
cliff; next the railroad was the Grand River and on the
other side of the river was a narrow and winding drive road
cut out of the rocks at a great expense by the State of Col
orado, which was called the Taylor State P^oad. It did not
seem wide enough for two teams to pass, and two horsemen
riding abreast seemed to fill it up.
As we passed along a huge black bear was seen to
come down a ravine, cross the Taylor road and leisurely
drink from the stream. Perhaps bruin thought the editors
were poor shots and he was in no danger from the party.
The train did not even stop to let us have a shot at him.
We now entered the canyon which is celebrated for its
sublime beauty and grandeur. The canyon is so narrow
and its sides so precipitous that there is not room for both
the river and the railroad, so in many places a resting place
for the iron rails had to be cut out of the rocky face of the
234

THE MAMMOTH SWIMMING POOL, GLENWOOD SPRINGS.

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

UP MARSHALL PASS, COLORADO
cliff — an unparalled engineering feat. The river rushes
along in a raging, turbulent and thundering torrent, slowly
eating its way down through the adamantine bed; while
above its foaming and leaping waters tower the mighty
granite sides of the canyon seemingly reaching to the skies,
being in places from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high. Yea, in
places those walls of granite are so lofty and the canyon so
narrow that the glorious sunshine never penetrates to the
bottom, and there it is always "dim and religious twilight."
We gazed with awe, wonder and admiration upon those
mighty waUs, which stand up like the towering battiements of
some great fortress, lavishly painted in the colors of the rain
bow by nature's artist hands. The blending of the maroon,
vermillion, green, yellow, brown, purple and gray are most
wonderful. The beholder can scarcely believe his eyes
235

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
when he sees that wonderful and mysterious blending of
colors; it does not seem possible that they are real and
placed there by nature.
The richest colors from the artist's palette are there in
generous and harmonious profusion, such as feeble man
would vainly attempt to imitate. The dim shades and
lights in the bottom of the canyon, the dark blue waters oi
the river, the gray and rugged boulders pushing up out of
the stream, the lofty cliffs, with their beautiful colorings,
and the clear sky, with its wonderful azure are combined to
make the most marvelous and beautiful picture we ever be
held, and one that will linger long on the films of our mem
ory. Mere words are poor and weak and entirely inade
quate to paint the sublimity and grandeur of the scene.
In many places the summits of the canyon's sides have
shot up in rocky pinnacles closely resembling the towers,
minarettes and steeples of mighty temples. The walls in
many places are pierced with deep and dark caverns, in
which man or beast may dwell in safety. At other places
there are peculiar openings and formations in the sides of
the canyon which did not look unlike the homes of the cliff
dwellers. In many places the river took such sharp and
sudden tums that the railroad had to be run through tun
nels in the projecting cliffs, and at one place we passed
through a natural tunnel which the river, in ages long gone
by, had bored through the granite shield. The ride through
the canyon is one continuous panorama of nature's most
sublime pictures, which awe, yet delight the beholder, and
fill him with wonder and deep reverence for the Creator of
all this beauty.
Some miles farther on the canyon widens out and we
236

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

EAGLE RIVER CANYON
pass through the "lava beds." For miles and miles, on
each side of the tracks, stretch the black lava deposits in
fantastic shapes, which were cast there in the dim and misty
past by some violent volcanic eruption. It is said that in
these very lava beds the Indians were wont to take refuge
when too hotly pursued by the troops.
Later we entered the valley of the Eagle River where
we saw many ranches and farmers cultivating crops and
herding cattle. At Minturn station our train was cut in
three sections to ascend the very steep grades starting there
up over the mountain and through the beautiful and roman
tic scenery of the Eagle River canyon. It is July 2d as
we thus ascend the mountain toward Tennessee Pass. The
people in the east are sweltering in the heat, but just before
we reach the pass we run into a fierce snow storm and the
temperature gets unpleasantly cold. The scene is wonder-
237

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
ful— here we are at an altitude of 10,240 feet above the sea
level, within 3000 feet as high as Pikes Peak, and on all
sides are seen lofty, snow-clad mountain peaks. The brake-
man of our train informed us that it was a very common
thing to mn into snow storms at the pass, and that two
years previous, in August, he had frozen his ears in cross
ing the pass,
Tennessee Pass, Colorado, is said to be the highest
point reached by a railroad, except one or two points in the
Alps, Some of our party were made weak and drowsy and
caused to bleed at the nose by the high altitude, while
others were ' unaffected. At Tennessee Pass we rushed
through a tunnel half a mile long and emerged on the At
lantic side of the Rocky Mountains. Our train was united
here and we sped down the mountain hauled by a single
engine. The waters on this side of the mountain flow
toward the Atlantic Ocean, while on the other side of the
pass they rush towards the Pacific Ocean,
A short time later our train stopped and we alighted to
gaze off in the distance at a mountain peak rising its lofty
head above the sea. It is the Mountain of The Holy Cross,
There, high on the side of the mountain, was the large
white cross, bright and brilliant, its top almost reaching to
the peak and its foot hundreds of feet down the mountain
side. There, centuries ago, perhaps at the creation of the
world, God planted in the very skies, and in the center of
the continent, an indestructible sign by which all mankind
should be reminded of Him who died to save the fallen
race. One writer standing before that mount exclaimed:
"Humble thyself, O man ! Uncover thy head and acknowl
edge thy weakness ! Forget not that as high above thy
238

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS
239

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
gilded spires gleams the splendor of this ever-living Cross,
so are My thoughts above thy thoughts, and My ways
above thy ways !"
Some miles back, at Rifle, an old fashioned stage, with
leather springs, such as the colonial fathers rode in, which
was drawn by four white horses, met the train. The stage
line runs from that point — miles back over the mountains
to Meeker. It takes 24 hours to make the journey, and
you have to pay $8 for riding in the antiquated coach that
far, with an occasional hold up thrown in by way of variety.
Some of us climbed into the coach and decided that it would
be a very easy and comfortable conveyance.
At LeadviUe Junction we were a couple of miles from
that famous place of gold mines, and could see some of the
town, but as the route mapped out for our joumey did not
include LeadviUe, we passed it on the side. We soon ap
proached the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas River. This
gorge is only seven miles in length, but is one of the grand
est spectacles of nature in the world, no other canyon pre
senting the same features of grandeur. As we entered the
gorge and penetrated farther into it, the walls grew higher
and higher, until they were 3,000 feet in heighth — over half
a mile, straight up from the waters of the river toward the
sky. There we were in the twilight, in the bottom of the
gorge, while high up on the summits the noon day sun
shone brightiy. Here were the massive walls oi stone, at
the bases dark and gray and toward the tops tinted with
the rich bien dings of purple, brown, gold and silver, with a
strength and majesty that defied both time and man. As
our train moved along the canyon grew narrower and nar
rower, until there seemed scarcely room for both river and
240

THE CURRECANTI NEEDLE, FIFTEEN HUNDRED FEET
HIGH, ON DENVER & RIO GRANDE RAILWAY

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THROUGH THE ROYAL GORGE.
railroad. The river flowed in a deep channel scarcely 50
feet wide, dashing and lashing the rocks in its fury at being
so confined and restrained. At length we came to a place
where there was in reality no room or foundation for the
railroad, and the river flowed along in an almost fathomless,
dark and turbulent stream — not unlike the river Styx. The
ingenuity of man rose superior to the might of the river,
and a hanging bridge was tied to the granite sides of the
canyon, and the deep gulf spanned. When the train came
to this hanging bridge it stopped and we alighted. From
241

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
the edge of that Stygian stream we looked up to the sum
mits of the canyon and vainly sought to see the briUiant
sun above. We stood awed, impressed and speechless at
the sublimity and grandeur of the scene. The trainmen
examined the condition of the bridge and then we passed
over in safety.
It is told that when the engineers constructing the line
of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad came to this spot
in the Royal Gorge where there was no foothold for the
tracks, and found the river so deep and its current so fierce
and strong they thought their labors lost, and that the work
would have to be abandoned. One daring spirit suggested
the idea of a hanging bridge. The idea was quickly
grasped. So a number of workmen were taken miles ciround
to the top of the canyon, and a brave employe was then
lowered 3,000 feet down over the face of the cliff's to cut
holes in the granite waUs to which the first supports of the
swinging bridge were anchored. The rest of the construc
tion was easy. The greatest and grandest scenic railway
in the world thus became a possibility, and soon became a
reality. Since then thousands upon thousands of travelers
have passed in safety over that trembling bridge without a
single tremor. We left that scene of sublime beauty with
keen regret.

242

CHAPTER XXXni.
PUEBLO — THE PITTSBURG OF THE WEST,
EMERGING from the Royal Gorge we reached Can
yon City, the county seat of Fremont county, and the
seat of the Colorado State penal institutions. That city
has also become noted as a health and pleasure resort.
From that city we passed through some grazing and farm
ing lands. We arrived the same evening at Pueblo, Colorado, in

THE MINNEQUA STEEL WORKS, PUEBLO.
time for supper at the Union station dining room. After
supper the most of our party strolled about the city. Al
though it was Sabbath evening we found many shops and
stores open, except the large commercial and mercantile es
tablishments. Pueblo is an important and progressive city
of about 36,000 people. It is far in advance, commercially,
of many other westem cities, and is full of large and grow-
243

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

SILVER AND GOLD SMELTER, PUEBLO
ing manufacturing industries. There are so many steel
and iron works and manufactories in Pueblo that it has
become known as the "Pittsburg of the West." The city
has great wealth, fine business blocks, magnificent houses,
complete railroad facilities, excellent public improvements
and utilities. Many of the wealthiest, most progressive and
public spirited of Pueblo's citizens are former Pennsylvan
ians, and they still have a warm spot in their hearts for the
Keystone State and her people. This may account for the
city's material prosperity and advancement into the ranks
of the manufacturing and cosmopolitan cities.
The motto of Pueblo is "Watch Our Smoke," thus
directing attention to their several hundred manufacturing
244

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

MAIN STREET, PUEBLO
industries and silver ore smelters, which annually tum the
raw materials into millions of bright golden dollars. The
business of the city is of great magnitude, and last year the
smelters and manufactories did upwards of $100,000,000
worth of business.
The monthly wages of the city's workmen exceed
$1,500,000, while the toilers in the steel mills earn each
month about $350,000. That much cash put into business
circulation each month greatly stimulates the retail trade.
The nine trunk line railroads entering the city are put to
their utmost endeavors in handling the enormous volume of
freight entering and leaving Pueblo, The city has over
600 wholesale and retail business houses. There are 13
up-to-date newspapers and publications in the city, 49
churches and two libraries — the beautiful McClelland Li
brary and the handsome new Camegie Library, just com
pleted. Pueblo is full of secret orders, lodges and clubs.
245

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

UNION AVENUE, PUEBLO
The principal ones are the Pueblo Club, the Minnequa
Club and the Elk Club, all of which have handsome and
imposing quarters. The park system is well planned and
ably administered. There are nine of these beautiful pleas
ure grounds. There are many beautiful and magnificent
homes within the confines of Pueblo, where generous hospi
tality and open-hearted friendship reign supreme. The
architect, the artist and the landscape gardner have all done
their best for Pueblo's homes.
A great future apparentiy lies before Pueblo and its
people. We regretted that our time did not allow us to
visit Trinidad and other interesting places in Southern
Colorado.

246

COG WHEEL RAILROAD ASCENDING PIKE'S PEAK

CHAPTER XXXIV.

COLORADO SPRINGS — THE SCENIC SPOT OF AMERICA —
pike's PEAK, THE SUBLIME — MANITOU, THE
PICTURESQUE.
AT 9 o'clock Sunday night our special train pulled out
for Colorado Springs, arriving at that city at 10 o'clock
the same evening. Some of our party remained over night
in Pueblo and rejoined us
on Monday morning at
Colorado Springs. Of the
Colorado health and pleas
ure resorts Colorado
Springs is the best known
and most famous. The
city has a population oi
30,000 people, and is sur-
HOTEL ANTLERS rounded by some of the
greatest scenic wonders of the world. At its very doors the
great Pike's Peak rears its snowy and sun-lit top in the
midst of strange rock formations, mighty canyons and
sparkling mineral springs. The city is located on a large
plateau 6,915 feet above the level of the sea, and its chmate
is most wonderful — never too hot nor too cold, but always
dry, bracing, refreshing and health-giving, with 315 days
of the year brilliant sunshine and gentle breezes. It has
247

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RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CASCADE AVENUE
been appropriately caUed "The City of Sunshine," Colo
rado Springs is becoming so well known and famous that
no trip to the West or the Pacific Coast is considered com
plete without a visit to the Springs, The winter climate is
said to be even more glorious and bracing than that of sum
mer. The city is the center oi attraction of the grandest
Rocky Mountairi scenery. Three miles away to the south
is the entrance to the beautiful and romantic South Chey
enne canyon. The same distance to the north we find the
entrance to the picturesque scenery of North Cheyenne can
yon. Farther on is Cheyenne Mountain, crowned by the
Seven Lakes. Five miles to the west is Manitou, with its
famous and health-giving iron and soda springs, which the
Indians of old believed were blest and troubled by the spirit
of Manitou for their healing. Thirty miles southwest,
reached by the Cripple Creek Railroad through mountain
248

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

VIEW OF pike's peak FROM COLORADO SPRINGS
scenery of unequalled beauty, is the famous Cripple Creek,
a gold mining city of 50,000 people, whose mines last year
produced $25,000,000 worth of gold. Three miles to the
northwest is the marvelous "Garden of the Gods."
Colorado Springs is well supplied with hotels, large
and small, and many boarding houses to accommodate the
thousands of tourists who visit them annually. The swell
hotel of the place is the Antlers, erected at an expense of
$500,000, with all the comforts of life so much demanded
by the fastidious and wealthy tourists. The hotel is of
beautiful and massive architecture ; is built of buff brick and
sand stone, and is entirely fire-proof. It has a ball room
50x85 feet, with a stage, so that it can be used as a thea
tre. Its rotunda is 53x90 feet, and the dining room 50x90
feet. The hotel can accommodate 500 guests. The Ant
lers is conducted in the most modem and skillful manner by
249

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

BRODAMOOR CASINO, COLORADO SPRINGS
Mr. L. A. Kittredge, formerly of Kenilworth Inn, Biltmore,
AshviUe, North Carolina. The Alta Vista Hotel, the
Alamo and the Plaza are other modern hotels catering to a
large class of patrons at Colorado Springs.
The first thing the tourist wants to do at Colorado
Springs is climb to the snowy summit of Pike's Peak,
which has an elevation of 14,147 feet, and is one of the
highest mountains in the world. There are three ways of
ascending Pike's Peak, by foot, (tedious climbing) on
horseback or by burro and by the cogwheel steam railroad.
The favorite plan is to go up early by the cogwheel route
and see the sun rise from that lofty perch. This plan was
adopted by most of our party. They arose early and went
to Manitou, the starting place of the railroad, determined to
"Reach Pike's Peak or bust." From the starting point to
the top of the Peak by rail is 91 miles of slow, tedious and
250

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

COG ROAD STATION, MANITOU
torturing riding. That little bit of crooked road was built
with great difificulty, and at an outlay of half a milhon dol
lars of very hard cash.
Half way up the mountain an enterprising newspaper
"devil" has located a small press and publishes daily The
Pike's Peak News. Before the train leaves Manitou the
names of the visitors are 'phoned up to the editor, and by
the time your car reaches the half-way house the sheet is
published, and in it appears your name as one of those who
had that day ascended Pike's Peak. You willingly part
with ten cents for a copy of the paper. The Daily Pike's
Peak News has proven a veritable gold mine to its pub
lisher. Notwithstanding the early rising of our editors the
sun had arisen before they gained the summit, yet none re
gretted their lost sleep, labor and fear in ascending the
Peak, for there spread before the vision was one of the
grandest and most beautiful sights the eyes of mortal man
ever looked upon. What a mighty picture it was. There
spread out was a mighty panorama of 60,000 square miles
251

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THROUGH THE DEVIL'S DOORWAY,
pike's peak RAILWAY
of mountains, plains, valleys and vales, dotted here and
there with cities, towns and villages, with rivers and rivu
lets tracing their threads of silver in serpentine lines in all
directions, while the lakes looked like unto silver mirrors
framed in brown and green, and the railroads in the far dis
tance, with their toy-like trains, looked like the work of
midgets. The Ratoon Mountains and Spanish peaks of
New Mexico, the glistening, snowy crests of the Sangre de
Cristo range and many high peaks from 60 to 150 miles
away, are seen cleariy. Just think of being able to look
down on such a glorious panorama, almost a third again as
large as the entire State ol Pennsylvania ! Such a sight
once seen will never be forgotten.
Pike's Peak is history — a strange, hushed romance.
Oblivion veils its mystic past. No crumbling parchment
hints its thriUing tales. Yet it is older, so scientists relate,
than regions that are thus gazetted. Men lived and
wrought in the long ago. The great white mountain
252

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

MESA ROAD AND ENTRACE TO GLEN
EYRIE, COLORADO SPRINGS
watched it aU and locked the mighty secrets in its breast.
Authentic lore of this monument of the continent dates from
November 13th, 1806, when Major Zebulon M. Pike, a
gallant soldier and a daring adventurer, then heading a
small exploring party of United States soldiers, sighted the
mountain's whitened crest, when many miles distant upon
the plains. It cost him ten days' marching to reach its
253

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

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IN THE UTE PASS, OVERLOOKING MANITOU
base, and after vigorous attempts to scale it. Pike aband
oned the project with the declaration that "No human being
could ascend to its pinacle." That was long ago. There
have been many wonders since. The United States has
one of its most important signal stations on the top of
Pike's Peak, where most valuable observations are made
and hearlded to the world. The time to return eastward
came all too quickly, and loath to depart our party took a
last lingering look at the grand master piece.
The party left the. cogwheel train at Manitou station,
and the greatest trip of their life was a thing of the past.
The situation of the Manitou health resort is one of beauty
and grandeur, nestling at the foot of the mighty snow-cap-
ged mountains and surrounded by the everlasting hills. It
has delightful parks, romantic, winding paths, cool, shaded
and arcaded nooks, a very world of scenic beauty crowded
254
RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ON THE BEAR CREEK CANYON ROAD
all about. There are many fine hotels and hundreds of
good boarding houses to accommodate the pleasure-seeker,
as well as the ones in search of health. We even saw one
hotel with the familiar old name Juniata House blazoned in
gold over its doors. We tarried, drank copiously of the
clear crystal waters from sparkling and effervescent foun
tains, were refreshed and received our share of health. A
band gives concerts in the park afternoons and evenings.
A number of our party took advantage of the occasion
of a delay at Colorado Springs to joumey up over the
Cripple Creek Railroad. It is a road of great engineering
feats. There are many and most tortuous curves, climbing
steadily up the mountains, fairly leaping the gorges from
peak to peak; over canyons and crags from the time it starts
until it reaches the "Land of Gold," 45 miles away, at
Cripple Creek. It is a glorious trip, ever increasing in
255

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CITY HALL, COLORADO SPRINGS
beauty and grandeur as the rails reach higher and higher
and higher toward the clouds. It is climb, climb, all the
time until the train reaches an altitude of 9,490 feet above
the sea at Cripple Creek. We passed through the romantic
Bear canyon, the gigantic rocks at Point Sublime arose
before us, and far below, nestling at the foot of the moun
tains, we could see Manitou, Colorado City and Colorado
Springs. On the right extends the beauties of North
Cheyenne canyon, while hundred of feet above spring the
Silver Cascade Falls, whose waters, in the early moming
light, look hke the silvery tresses of the Frost Sprite. A
Httle further on the railroad winds around the sides of St.
Peter's Dome — that majestic peak, not unlike in shape to
the famous St. Peter's Dome, of Rome, towers tiiousands of
feet in the air, and the massive pile of granite stands out
alone as if guarding the innermost secrets of the mountains.
256

CHAPTER XXXV.
THE GARDEN OF THE GODS — THE ENCHANTED INDIAN
TEMPLE OF THE GREAT SPIRIT MANITOU.
OF all the grand, sublime and striking natural scenes
among the mountain marvels of the "Land of the
Turquoise Sky" (Colorado) none is more peculiar, more
interesting, so awe-inspring and more frequently visited
than the world-famous Garden of the Gods, near Colorado
Springs. The Garden of the Gods is easily and quickly
reached by carriages or trolley cars from Colorado Springs
or Manitou. Around this most remarkable locality cluster
many beautiful, poetic and weird legends.
The Garden of the Gods was so named because, in
the ages past, it was the worshiping place of the mighty
Indians — the Temple of the Great God, the Great Spirit
Manitou, and of all the host of lesser divinities. Here came
the grave, silent and dignified Indian warrior in the pano
ply of paint, beads and feathers, with all his important pe
titions, supplicating the favor, support and protection of the
Great Spirit Manitou for his success in the chase and vic
tory in war over his foes. To the fanciful and superstitious
redskins the strange and weird figures, into which the God
of Nature had fashioned and moulded the towering rocks,
were his divinities, and in the mysterious sounds in the Echo
ing Cave he heard the voice of the Great Spirit Manitou
257

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ENTRANCE TO THE GARDEN OF THE GODS
giving reply to his earnest prayers. After hearing some cf
these weird legends the white man approaches the Garden
of the Gods subdued and awed by the strange mysteries
clinging around the spot. The entrance, or the gateway,
as it is called, is most impressive to the beholder, and one
pauses ere he enters therein. On either side of the pass
ageway stand two immense and mighty slabs, or pillars, of
red sand stone, soft, warm and beautiful in color, which
tower over 300 feet up into the air, as if forbidding the mor
tal from entering the sacred precincts of that temple. A
huge boulder, rusty with age, stands just a little way within
the entrance, as if rolled back at the command of the Great
Spirit Manitou to allow his worshipers to enter there. It is
said that during the famous campaign in Egypt the great
Napoleon, to impress his soldiers and excite the "Old
Guard" to their best and most vahant efforts in the ap-
258

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

BALANCED ROCK, GARDEN OF THE GODS
proaching battle, told them that 4,000 years looked down
upon them from the ancient pyramids ; but here in the sen
tinels of the gateway of the Garden of the Gods, untald
ages look down upon, awe and impress the beholder with
their might and mystery. The mossiness of the rocks, the
rich colorings of dark reds, light reds, purple, bright yel
low, orange, bronze and green, all in harmonious blendings,
excite the wonder and admiration of the spectator. Once
259

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

CATHEDRAL SPIRES, GARDEN OF THE GODS
the Gateway is passed fresh wonder after wonder greets the
gaze of the impressed beholder as he advances inward.
All manner of strange shapes and forms are seen in the
massive, isolated rocks which stand out on aU sides — here
the "Cathedral Spires," with their high, massive and won
derful shapes, excite our admiration and wonder, and we
can well imagine them to be like unto the mighty towers
fronting on ancient and beautiful cathedrals. There, on all
260

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
sides, in the still rocks, are observed weird figures of men
and animals strikingly true to nature — the Kneeling Camel,
the Dolphin, the Lion, the Griffin, the Bear, the Seal, the
Kissing Camels, the Statue of Liberty and so on. The
interest, beauty and grandeur increases as one progresses
through the garden, wonder following wonder, marvel suc
ceeding marvel, until the farthest end is reached, and we
come to a great mass of red sand stone weighing thousands
of tons — the Balanced rock — standing upon a small pin
nacle. It looks as if some mighty giant hand in past ages
had cast it down from the mountain summits above, and it
fell there immovably fixed, looking insecure and ready to
topple over; yet neither the power of man, nor the might of
wind, nor the tempests in all the ages that have come and
gone have been able to shake or hurl it from its resting
place. There it stands in its majesty and in defiance of all
the powers that be, a mighty monument.
The ghostly voices in the Echoing Cave gave one a
feeling of oppressive awe and fear, and we wondered not
that the superstitious and fanciful Indian imagined that he
heard therein the voice of the Great Spirit Manitou.
From that most interesting and remarkable place we
departed deeply impressed by the wonderful and mysterious
workings of Nature's God.

261

CHAPTER XXXVT.

SOUTH CHEYENNE CANYON — THE SPOT OF POETIC
BEAUTY AND ROMANCE.
OF all the beauty spots close to Colorado Springs we
found South Cheyenne Canyon to be the most en
trancing and romantically
beautiful. No visit to that
neighborhood can be complete
or satisfactory without a visit
being made to South Cheyenne
Canyon. Its beauty has been
sung by poets; lecturers have
vainly struggled to portray its
beauty in words, and painters
have mixed in vain their colors
trying to transfer its beauties
upon the canvas. So loved
Helen Hunt the spot that
while at death's sombre portal
she thought of it with loving
longing, and made the request
that her body be laid to rest
^'x^on the high mountain over
looking the Seven Falls. Her
RAINBOW FALLS, UTE PASS dying wish was complied with,
262

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

AT THE HEAD OF THE SEVEN FALLS
and her body was borne forth by sorrowing friends and laid
to rest in a rocky grave on that lonely mountain-top with
only the Seven Falls to stand guard there.
We visited South Cheyenne Falls under the most
favorable circumstances. The day was perfect, the sky
was of the deepest blue and the air was dry, exhilarating
and bracing. We choose, as we thought, the only proper
way of seeing the canyon — to go on foot, side by side with
263

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE HELEN HUNT FALLS
nature, with no hurrying jehu to rush us along, or any
guide hired by the hour to hurry us past the things we
wanted to look longest at, or to give us a glibe story about
some rock and knock all the romance out of it. The can
yon is a little over three miles long and the ascent is grad
ual along the well-made road, but the paths up and over
the mountain sides are high and toilsome. The entrance
to the canyon is a scene of peace, harmony and beauty,
264

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

There was a babbling brook singing merrily over the moss-
covered stones, while on the banks sweetly sang the wild
birds in their happy liberty. By the patiiway sprang all
manner of beautiful wild flowers of every hue and tint, rais
ing their sweet faces to the brilliant morning sun, chief
among them being Colo
rado's State flower, the
i beautiful, stately and fra
grant columbine, with its
petals painted a lovely blue
to match the eyes of the
sky. The graceful bushes
and the tall pine trees with
their dark green foliage
against the dark granite
cliffs, made a picture of
wonderous beauty. The
road follows closely the
windings of the brook,
curving and turning thro'
the forest until it emerges
at the very portals of the
the canyon. Here a pic
ture of majestic beauty con
fronted us. The granite
mountain stands before you
cleft in twain as though
the mighty hand of a giant Titan had parted it that we
might walk through and see the beauties and wonders with
in. On the right is a high and massive peak of beautiful
colored granite called Eagle Cliff, because on that high
265

THE SEVEN FALLS

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ON THE DRIVEWAY, NORTH CHEYENNE CANYON
elevation the lordly eagle has seen fit to build his
home. In front of you is Mount Cutler, another granite
giant of the ages, on whose rugged sides are two peculiar
rock formations, the one called the "Vacant Chair" and the
other the "Hindoo Baby."
At the gateway of the canyon we found in front of us
two lofty granite peaks towering up 1,300 feet into the sky,
standing apart just far enough to allow the brook and the
266

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

ON BEAR CREEK CANYON ROAD
road to pass between. These gigantic pillars, thus guard
ing the portals of the canyon, have been rightly named the
"Pillars of Hercules." By these mighty resting supports
of Hercules mere mortal man seems little, insignificant and
impotent. Passing between the pillars on the left may be
seen the high summit of Observation Point whence a fine
view may be had of the canyon and lands below. A short
distance beyond we came to a place in the canyon of rended
and shattered rocks, looking as though some volcantic
emption had shattered and tossed them about.
To the left a bridle-patii crosses the crystal brook,
winding back and forth along the edge of the canyon and
over the side of Observation Point, until tiie summit is finally
reached, where is found the romantic grave of the poetess,
Helen Hunt Jackson, like unto that lonely grave on Mount
Nebo's lofty heights. We passed through the narrows,
267

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

WEIRD ROCK FORMATIONS, MONUMENT PARK
with their massive, lofty and frowning cliffs, which seem to
defy the warfare of time and the elements. Passing by the
bridle-path, proceeding up the canyon, along the main
drive-road, we soon entered a mighty ampitheatre surround
ed by high, frowning granite cliffs. At the farthest end is
the beautiful and magnificent display of the Seven Falls,
whose silvery streams plunge in a foaming, glittering tor
rent from the rocks 234 feet above, in seven distinct leaps
268

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

BRIDGE OF SIGHS, MONUMENT PARK
to the pool below. These falls have a peculiar beauty and
grandeur all their own which appeal to and strongly move
the most stolid and unpoetic mind. And these are the falls
that Helen Hunt Jackson loved so well. The owners of
the South Cheyenne Canyon have built a safe and easy
stairway up the side of the cliffs, so that one can mount to
the summit of the Seven Falls and view the beauties of the
dashing and leaping waters from above. We climbed those
300 steps. Farther along the stream are seen the graceful
Bridal Veil Falls, the Midnight FaUs and the silvery Juan-
iata Falls. The west branch of the stream is fed by the
melting snows of Mount Rosa, and flows through Arapahoe
Pass. The brook there flows over giant rocks and through
mossy banks dotted with the most fragrant of wild flowers.
There is fragrant columbine in white, blue and yeUow; the
gaudy tiger lily, the modest primrose, lady slippers, shoot-
269

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

THE COLONADE, MONUMENT PARK
ing stars, buttercups and sweet violets. The place is one
of alluring beauty, quiet and enchantment. Had the time
permitted we would have penetrated farther along the stream
seeing new features of beauty at each step, but we had
there to pause and retrace our steps to Colorado Springs.

270

CHAPTER XXXVn.
DENVER — THE CITY OF SUNSHINE — THE PARTING
OF THE WAYS.
REACHING Colorado Springs the special train was in
readiness to carry our party on to Denver, and we
were soon rolling northward. Some distance north of Col
orado Springs we passed Palmer Lake, which has grown to
be a very popular and attractive summer resort. In the 75
mile run up to Denver over the rails of the Denver and Rio
Grand Railroad we passed many very flourishing ranches,
with hundreds of sleek cattle grazing on the ranges. On
our arrival Monday afternoon, July 3, at the Union station,
Denver, we were met by a committee of the Chamber of
Commerce. Headed by a brass band we were conducted
to the palatial Hotel Savoy, Denver's newest hotel, where
we were served with an elaborate luncheon. This was the
most enjoyable luncheon served on the entire tour.
Mayor Speer, of the city, the Secretary of the Cham
ber of Commerce, and other notables made addresses of
welcome, giving us the keys of the city and ample police
protection. The response for the editorial party was made
in a very felicitous manner by Mr. Addison B. Burk, of
Philadelphia. At the conclusion of the speeches we entered
the special cars in waiting and spent two hours in seeing
all the best sights of the city, being much interested, pleased
271

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

VIEW OF SIXTEENTH STREET, DENVER
and surprised at the beauty, extent and thrift of the pro
gressive city. Denver, the capital of Colorado, is a won
derful city. It is the most progressive, substantial and cos
mopolitan city of the west. It fact it looks just like a sub
stantial eastern city picked up bodily and set down out on
the plains, there to be a shining light and example for the
rest of the westem country. There is nothing shoddy about
it. The State capitol is a beautiful, massive structure. AU
its public buildings are substantial and imposing structures.
The business blocks are large and of the best style and
character in the land. Its manufacturing plants are large
and well conducted. The city is full of palatial homes of
the rich, and the people of moderate means have handsome
and well-designed houses. Not a single frame house is
272

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

VIEW OF SEVENTEENTH STREET, DENVER
allowed to be built in the city. Each house stand far back
from the street with a beautiful lawn in front. The parks
are many, large, well planned and beautiful. The streets
are wide, well paved, well kept and adorned with fine, lux
uriant shade trees. The public utihties — the electric light,
gas, water works and street car lines are all modern, com
plete and well managed. The city is full oi hotels from
the highest priced down to the most modest hostlery, which
are capable of taking care of the largest conventions that
enter its gates. While we were there thousands of the
members of the Epworth League of the United States were
gathering in the city for their annual convention.
The Denverites are great home shouters. They say
"Denver is the most desirable residence city in the world."
Here every breeze bears health upon its wings. It has no
blizzards, no biting winds, no drizzhng rains, no slush and
273

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

UNION STATION, DENVER
no fog. They have 304 days of sunshine every year. It
is a city of the plains, but has a mighty bulwark of protec
tion on the west in the majestic ranges of the Rocky Moun
tains, shielding it from the fierce winds. It stands on a
plateau a mile above the level of the sea. It is a curious
and not generally known coincidence that Denver sits in the
same altitude as the famous cities ol Pekin, China; Naples,
Lisbon, Constantinople and Bokhara. Many eastemers
have gone to Denver in search of renewed health, or on a
visit and were so infatuated with the beautiful city and its
glorious climate that they stopped, tarried and continued to
stay on there forever. We have tasted its pleasures and
attractions and know that it is a good place to stay in. We
were loath to leave, but the schedule compelled our party
to start that night.
The special train was broken up that night so that the
274

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.

UNION DEPOT, PUEBLO, COLORADO
various members of our party might more conveniently
reach their distant abiding places. Some of the cars went
east over the popular Burlington route; some journeyed by
the old standby, the Union Pacific; some hastened over the
famous Santa Fe, and the Pennsylvania and Ohio members
were rushed over the interesting Rock Island to St. Louis.
The trains were somewhat delayed by floods which had
badly washed the tracks in a number of places in Kansas.
The entire 4th of July was spent rushing through the vast
corn fields of Kansas, which cannot be called "bleeding Kan
sas" any more, for that immense com crop meant gold dol
lars by the bushels to the farmers to cure their "bleeding"
iUs. The Pennsylvanians, the Ohio boys and some New
York orphans were not be cheated out of their old-fashioned
275

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
Fourth of July celebration, so speeches, songs and fire
works were the order of the day on the cars, and the fitting
climax of it aU was the foUowing impromptu original poem
delivered by our poet, Mr. James H. Potts, of The Times,
Troy, New York :
THE PILGRIM'S FOURTH.
Ts this our country's natal day,
And we upon the pilgrims' way?
Where are the festive hours we know
In homes we left long weeks ago?
The din that rose with morning's sun
Leave us in quiet, every one;
For cannon's mouth at break of dawn
The echoes of the cannon's yawn ;
For powder grains that flew like hail
The brief torpedo of the rail ;
For Chinese cracker and its wheeze
The other kind, that came with cheese ;
For the revolver's warning bark
Revolving wheels in day and dark;
For proud drum major shining far
The modest captain of a car;
No blood that bids the surgeon pause.
But "bleeding Kansas' " watery laws.
And yet the glory of the sun
Is brighter than the rocket's run.
The breadth of meeting land and sky
Grander than the fire-works of July ;
And here where merges South and North
We celebrate the patriot's Fourth.
Who can with keener sight than we.
The travelers from sea to sea.
Discern the wonders wrought for men
When flowed the Declaration pen r
276

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
From states that know the Atlantic's surge
We crossed the Mississippi's verge ;
Saw Oklahoma peering far.
Await the rising of its star ;
Like boys who from the table rise
The Texan wondered at his size ;
El Paso strode the stream below
To kiss the maids of Mexico ;
While Arizona's torrid beam
Proved the mirage was not a dream.
WiU ever California's breath
That wooed us from the Vale of Death
Be lost to memory's deep grand state ?
Not till Heaven opes its Golden Gate.
Midst ancient spires that seek the skies
An exposition's towers arise ;
Lewis and Clarke a century greets
From palace homes and busy streets.
The whisper of the Mormon hall
Swells to a roar while pledging all
To make of Utah such a state
As, pure and loyal, must be great.
As Shasta's glistening summit high
From redwoods rose to azure sky.
So Colorado's colors true,
Soil red, white m.ountains, heavens of blue.
No loiterers we on foreign strand.
We're in the heart of Union land.
Nor have the giants of the past
Vanished from out the picture vast ;
The fathers had their Washington,
We glory in a later son,
And all the pride the patriots felt
Glows at the name of Roosevelt,
Between his death and burial lies,
277

RAMBLES IN THE FAR WEST.
Where tinged with gloom are festal skies.
One who from our own writing guild
Was in diplomacy most skilled.
Lo ! pendent from the flag
Grief's streamer for the death of Hay !
Westward let empire take its way.
We're going East, perhaps to stay ;
But East and West, with South and North,
Proclaim an undivided Fourth.
Pacific union is our boast.
Union Pacific now our host ;
And though like wise men from afar
We traveling seek home's guiding star.
The day, the place, we understand ;
July the Fourth ! our dear land !
St. Louis, Missouri, at last was reached, and the party
separated to go each his o-wn way to his beloved hearth
stone. After five weeks of joumey ings with genial com
panions, traveling over 10,000 miles of railroads, big and
small ; seeing the greatest, grandest and most sublime sights
of Nature in the greatest Empire on the face of the earth ;
viewing the manifold and wonderful works of man ; tasting
the delights of life, and experiencing unbounded courtesy
and generous hospitality of our brethren of the westem part
of our mighty Empire, the most glorious joumey of our
Association was done. We parted with the tablets of our
minds stored with the most beautiful pictures, and in our
memories happy recollections of unalloyed pleasures.

THE END.

YALE UNIVERSITY

I

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